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dirert^ JtanA tSu./’y John Jfttrnti/AthfmAr/eyftnffZmide

JOURNAL

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OF A VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE

E"ROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC:

PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1 SI 9— 20,

IN HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS

HECLA AND GRIPER,

UNDER THE ORDERS OF

WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY, R.N., E'.R.S.,

AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING THE SCIENTIFIC
AND OTHER OBSERVATIONS.

PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS

OF THE ADMIRALTY.

LONDON :

JOHN MURRAY,

PUBLISHER TO THE ADMIRALTY, AND BOARD OF LONGITUDE.

MDCCCXXI.

LONDON :

PRINTED BV william CLOWES,
NoithambeiTand-court.

650

w

l^l\ ■

C.!

TO

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE

LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE,

FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD
HIGH ADMIRAL OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, 4c. 4c. 4c.

THIS VOLUME,

CONTAINING

THE JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE
FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC,

UNDERTAKEN AND EXECUTED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF HIS LORDSHIP,

IS INSCRIBED,

WITH DUE RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,

BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT,

WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY.

London, HJtiy, 1821.

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rative, ill consequence of having inadvertently inserted those
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A Supplement to the Appendix, containing the Zoology,
Botany, Geology, of the Arctic Regiotis, will be published
on the of June.

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CONTENTS

PAGE

Introduction .......... i

Official Instructions .......... xix

CHAPTER I.

Passage across the Atlantic — Enter Davis’ Strait— Unsuccessful attempt to penetrate the ice
to the Western Coast — Voyage up the Strait^r-Passage through the Ice to the Western
Coast — Arrival off Possession Bay, on the Southern side of 'the entrance into Sir James
Lancaster’s Sound . . . . . . . . . . . .1

CHAPTER II.

Entrance into Sir James Lancaster’s Sound of Baffin— Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward
— ’Discovery and Examination of Prince Regent’s Inlet — Progress to the Southward
stopped by Ice — Return to the Northward — Pass Barrow’s Strait — and enter the Polar

Sea ........... 29

CHAPTER III.

Favourable appearances of an Open Westerly Passage — Land to the Northward, a Series of
Islands — General Appearance of them — Meet with some obstruction from low Islands sur-
rounded with Ice — Remains cf Esquimaux Huts, and Natural Productions of Byam
Martin Island — Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice — Difficulty of Steering a Proper
Course — Arrival and Landing on Melville Island — Proceed to the Westward, and reach
the Meridian of 110° W. Longitude, the First Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by
Act of Parliament . . . . . . . . .53

CHAPTER IV.

Further Examination of Melville Island — Continuation of our Progress to the Westward — Long
Detention by the Ice — Party sent on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-Oxen — Return in
Three Days, after losing their way — Anxiety on their account — Proceed to the Westward,
till finally stopped by the Ice — In returning to the Eastward the Griper forced on the
beach by the Ice — Search for, and discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island —
Operations for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters . . . .75

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

PAGE

Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores — for promoting Good Order, Cleanliness,
Health, and Good-humour, among the Ships’ Companies — Establishment of a Theatre,
and of the North Georgia Gaze^^e— Erection of an Observatory on Shore — Commence our
Winter’s Amusements — State of the Temperature and various Meteorological Phenomena
— Miscellaneous Occurrences to the close of the Year 1819 .... 101

CHAPTER VI.

First Appearance of Scurvy — The Aurora Borealis and other Meteorological Phenomena —
Visits of the Wolves — Re-appearance of the Sun — Extreme low Temperature — Destruc-
tion of the House on Shore by Fire — Severe Frost-bites occasioned by this Accident . 131

CHAPTER VII.

More temperate Weather — House re-built — Quantity of Ice collected on the Hecla’s lower
Deck — Meteorological Phenomena — Conclusion of Theatrical Entertainments — Increased
Sickness on board the Griper— Clothes first dried in the open Air — Remarkable Halos
and Parhelia — Snow-Blindness — Cutting the Ice round the Ships, and other Occurrences
to the Close of May . . . . . . . . . .151

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return to the Ships by a different

Route . . . . . . . . . . .181

CHAPTER IX.

Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June — Gradual Dissolution of the Ice upon
the Sea, and of the Snow upon the Land — Hunting Parties sent out to procure Game —
Decease and Burial of William Scott — Equipment of the Ships completed — Temperate
Weather during the Month of July — Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships — Move to the
lower Part of the Harbour — Separation of the Ice at the Entrance — Prepare to sail —
Abstract of Observations made in Winter Harbour ..... 206

CHAPTER X.

Leave Winter Harbour — Flattering appearance of the Sea to the Westward — Stopped by the
Ice near Cape Hay — Further Progress to the Longitude of 113° 48' 22".5, being the
Westernmost Meridian hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of America — Banks's
Land Discovered — Increased extent and dimensions of the Ice — Return to the East-
ward, to endeavour to penetrate the Ice to the Southward — Discovery of several Islands —
Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and survey its South Coast — Pass through Sir James Lan-
caster’s Sound, on our Return to England . . . . . • 228

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

PAGE

Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin’s Bay — Meet with the Whalers — Account of some
Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River Clyde — Continue the survey of the Coast, till
stopped by Ice in the Latitude of 68j° — Obliged to run to the Eastward — Fruitless
attempts to regain the land, and final Departure from the Ice — Remarks upon the pro-
bable existence and practicability of a North-West Passage, and upon the Whale-
Fishery — Boisterous Weather in crossing the Atlantic — Loss of the Hecla’s Bowsprit and
Foremast — Arrival in England. , , . . . . . .271

APPENDIX.

NO. PAGE

I. An Account of the going of the Chronometers of the Hecla and Griper . . iii

II. Lunar Observations .. i ..... . xxi

HI. Observations to determine the Latitude aud the Longitude by Chronometers . Ixi

IV. Abstract of Observations on the Dip of the Horizon at Sea, with Doctor Wollaston’s

Dip Sector, in 1819 and 1820 ci

V. Magnetic Observations ••••.... cv

VI. Table of Days’ Works kept on board the Hecla ..... cxliii

VII. Tide Table in Winter Harbour, Melville Island . .. . . .civ

VIII. An Account of Experiments to determine the Acceleration of the Pendulum in dif-" ; i

ferent Latitudes . . . . . . . . . clxi

IX. Remarks on the State of Health and Disease on board the Hecla and Griper . clxvii

LIST OF THE PLATES,

I. General Polar Chart, shewing the Track, Sfc. — to face

II. Situation of H. M. Ships Hecla and Griper, July 4th, 1819

III. Iceberg in Baffin’s Bay, July, 1819 .

IV. Chart of the Discoveries, Sfc. ^c.

V. Headlands, ^c., commencing with Cape Bathurst

VI. Ditto Cape Warrender

VII. Burnet Inlet .......

VIII. Headlands, ^c., commencing with Hobhouse Inlet

IX. Ditto Prince Leopold’s Islands

X. Chart of Port Bowen ......

XI. Headlands, ^c,, commencing with Cape Cockburn

XH. Situation of the Hecla and Griper, September 20th, 1819
XHI. Cutting into Winter Harbour ....

XIV. Hecla and Griper in Winter Harbour

XV. Chart of Winter Harbour .....

XVI. Situation of the Hecla and Griper, 17th to 23d of August, 1820
XVH. Musk-Ox .......

XVHI. Chart of a Part of the Western Coast of Baffin’s Bay

XIX. Esquimaux of the Inlet called the River Clyde

XX. Chart of the River Clyde .....

Title Page.
. 11
. 17

. 29
. 31

. 32

. 34

. 35

. 36

. 44

. 58
. 92

. 97

. 122
. 226
. 254
. 257
. 271
. 282
. 288

INTRODUCTION.

His Majesty’s Government having determined on the equipment
of an Expedition to attempt the Discovery of a North-West Pas-
sage into the Pacific, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty were
pleased to honour me with the command ; and my Commission for His
Majesty’s ship the Hecla, was dated the 16th of January, 1819. I
arrived in London on the 20th, and commissioned the Hecla at
Deptford on the following day. The second vessel appointed for this
service was the Griper, gun-brig ; she was commissioned by Lieute-
nant Matthew Liddon, who was directed to put himself under my
orders, on the 29th of January.

The Hecla was a bomb, of three hundred and seventy-five tons,
built in a merchant’s yard at Hull, in the year 1815, of large scant-
ling, and having a capacious hold, which made her peculiarly fit for
this service. The Griper was originally a gun-brig, of one hundred
and eighty tons ; and it was proposed by the Navy Board to raise upon
her a deck of six feet, so as to increase her stowage as much as pos-
sible. Both ships had been taken into dock about the middle of
December, in order to undergo a thorough repair, and to receive
every strengthening which the nature of the service demanded.

11

INTRODUCTION

The number of individuals employed on this service, amounted to
ninety-four ; their distribution on board each ship will be seen in the
following table.

A TABLE shewing the Officers, Seamen, Marines, 4c., embarked on board His Majesty’s Ships

Hecla and Griper.

RANK.

ON BOARD THE HECLA,

ON BOARD THE GRIPER.

Officers’ Names.

No. of
each
Rank

Officers’ Names.

No. of
each
Rank

Lieutenant and Commander

William Edward Parry . .

1

Matthew Liddon . . . .

1

Astronomer

Capt. Edward Sabine, R. A.

1

Lieutenant

Frederick William Beechey

1

Henry Parkyns Hoppner .

1

Surgeon

John Edwards

1

Purser

William Harvey Hooper

1

Assistant Surgeon . . . .

Alexander Fisher . . . .

1

Charles James Beverly . .

1

(■Joseph Nias

William J. Dealey . . .

Andrew Reid . . . .

Midshipmen

Charles Palmer . . . . ■

5

A. M. Skene . . . . 1

3

James Clarke Ross . . .

William Nelson Griffiths ^

tJohn Bushnan

Clerk

James Halse

1

Cyrus Wakeham . . . .

1

Gunner

James Scallon

1

Boatswain

Jacob Swansea

1

Carpenter ......

William Wallis ... .

1

Greenland Master ....

John Allison

1

George Fife

1

Greenland Mate ....

George Crawford . . . .

1

Alexander Elder . . . .

1

Cook

1

1

Leading Men .....

4

3

Quarter-master . . . .

1

1

Gunner’s-mate

1

1

Boatswain’s-raate ....

1

. . . f

1

Carpenter’ s-mate . . . .

1

1

Armourer’ s-mate . . . .

1

1

Sailmaker

1

1

Able Seamen

22

12

Serjeant of Marines . . .

1

Corporal of Marines . . .

1

Privates of ditto ....

5

4

Serjeant of Artillery . . .

Private of ditto . . . j

Accompanying Capt. Sabine

Total

2

58

»

Total

36

INTRODUCTION.

Ill

As an encouragement to the officers, seamen, and marines, who
were desirous of being employed on this service, the Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty were pleased to grant to every individual
engaged in the Expedition, double the ordinary pay of His Majesty’s
Navy. The ships were speedily manned with a full complement of
excellent seamen ; nearly the whole of those who had served on the
former Expedition having again volunteered tlieir services, besides
numerous others who were anxious to be employed on this occasion.

The mode of fortifying or strengthening the ships was principally the
same as that adopted on board the Isabella and Alexander in 1818
The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty were pleased to direct
the Navy and Victualling Boards to furnish every thing which the
experience of the former voyage had suggested as necessary, and
during the whole progress of our fitting, I received the greatest
attention and assistance from those Boards, who most readily com-
plied with every wish expressed by me for the more complete
equipment of the ships.

The mode of rigging the vessels was that of a barque, as
being the most convenient among the ice, and requiring the
smallest number of men to work them ; a consideration of no
little importance, where it was a material object to sail with
as few persons as possible, in order to extend our resources
to the utmost. The Hecla’s mizen-topsail was, therefore, taken
away, and the mizen-mast, top-mast, gaff, and driver-boom length-
ened, so as to make up, by a large driver and gaff- topsail, nearly the
same quantity of after-sail as before ; the foremast and mainmast
remaining the same as on the former establishment. By this al-

* See the Narrative of the former Voyage.

IV

INTRODUCTION.

leration we were enabled to put the ship’s company into three
watches, a regulation which is well known to tend very es-
sentially to the health and comfort of seamen, while it serves
also the important purpose of teaching them their own strength,
and increasing their activity on occasions requiring more than
ordinary exertion.

The ships were completely furnished with provisions and stores
for a period of two years ; in addition to which, a large supply of
fresh meats and soups, preserved in tin cases, by Messrs. Donkin and
Gamble, of Burkitt’s essence of malt and hops, and of the essence
of spruce, was also put on board, besides a number of other extra
stores adapted to cold climates and a long voyage. The anti-
scorbutics consisted of lemon-juice (which forms a part of the daily
rations on board His Majesty’s ships), vinegar, sour-krout, pickles,
and herbs ; and the whole of the provisions, which were of the
very best quality, were stowed in tight casks, to preserve them
from moisture or other injury. As a matter of experiment, a small
quantity of vinegar, in a highly-concentrated state, recommended
and prepared by Doctor Bollman, was also put on board, and
was found of essential service, the greater part of the com-
mon kind being destroyed by the severity of the frost. In order
to save stowage, only a small proportion of biscuit was received ;
flour, which had been previously kiln-dried with great care, being
substituted in its place. For the purpose of baking for the daily con-
sumption of the crews during the winter months, a portable oven was
furnished to the Hecla ; and after a good leaven had been once
obtained, we found no difficulty in baking light and wholesome bread,
even in the severest part of the season. The ships were ballasted

INTRODUCTION.

V

entirely with coals, (of which the Hecla stowed seventy, and the
Griper thirty-four chaldrons), together with such a quantity of fire-
wood as was necessary for the stowage of the casks in the holds.

. To add to our warmth, and to keep out the snow during the winter,
a housing-cloth was prepared of the same materials as that with
which waggons are usually covered, and which being laid on planks,
supported amidships by spars lashed fore and aft between the masts,
and resting with their lower ends on the gunwale, completely answered
the purpose for which it was intended.

Care was taken to provide abundance of warm clothing,
and one suit of the best quality was liberally furnished for
each man employed in the Expedition, to be served gratis at my
discretion. Among the numerous articles of this kind which con-
tributed essentially to our comfort, a wolf-skin blanket was supplied
for each officer and man, which, in addition to those of the common
sort, effectually kept the people warm in their beds, although from
the necessary economy in fuel, the temperature of the decks was
frequently much below the freezing point during the nights.

To be prepared against the chances of meeting with any natives in tlie
countries which we were about to visit, the ships were directed to be
furnished with a large quantity of various kinds of presents, both to se-
cure their friendship, and to purchase any supplies of which we might
stand in need. In short, nothing was omitted which could in any
degree tend to the success of the enterprise, or to the health, con-
venience, and comfort of those engaged in it. I feel myself par-
ticularly indebted to the kindness of Commissioner Cunningham,
and the officers employed under him in the different departments

VI

INTRODUCTION.

of the dock-yard at Deptford, in complying with, and even anti-
cipating, my wishes for the promotion of these objects. My thanks
are also due, in an especial manner to my friend Captain Henry
Garrett, agent victualler at that port, whose ready attention to all
our wants in his public department, could only be equalled by the
warm hospitality we experienced from him during the time of our
equipment.

While care was thus taken tliat nothing should be wanting to ensure
the success of the Expedition in its main object, the improvement of
geography and navigation, as well as the general interests of science,
were considered as of scarcely less importance. For this purpose, a
number of valuable instruments, (of which a list is subjoined), were
furnished to each ship ; and Captain Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who
was recommended by the President and Council of the Royal Society,
was embarked on board the Hecla, as Astronomer to the Expedition.

Previously to our leaving Deptford, the ships were visited by
Viscount Melville, who presided at the Admiralty, as well as by
several of the Lords Commissioners, and by the Comptroller of the
Navy, who were pleased to express their satisfaction at the manner in
which their directions and intentions had been complied with in the
general equipment of the Expedition. On the 2d of May, I repaired
to the Admiralty, to receive their Lordships’ final Instructions for the
conduct of the Expedition, a copy of which immediately precedes the
Narrative.

INTRODUCTION.

VII

List of the Instruments, <^c. embarked on hoard each of the two Ships.

Those marked with an Asterisk were furnished to the Hecla only.

* 2 Astronomical Clocks, with stands.

11 Chronometers on board the Hecla, and four on board the
Griper.

* 1 Transit instrument.

* 1 Portable observatory.

* 1 Repeating circle.

1 Dipping-needle. *A second ditto, the property of Henry

Browne, esq.

* 1 Instrument for magnetic force, on Captain Rater’s improved

construction.

* 1 Variation transit.

* 1 Variation needle.

4 Azimuth compasses, on Captain Rater’s improved construction.

1 Dip-sector, invented by Dr. Wollaston.

2 Mountain barometers.

2 Marine ditto.

2 Altitude instruments, invented by Captain Rater.

1 Theodolite.

2 Anglometers.

1 Circular protractor.

3 Artificial horizons.

1 Hydrometer.

1 Water-bottle, invented by Dr. Marcet.

10 Thermometers.

* 4? Self-registering ditto, (Sixe’s), with iron cases for fastening to

the deep-sea lead.

2 Electrometers, with chains.

Together with a complete set of drawing instruments, scales, beam-
compasses, <fc. for the construction of charts.

Vlll

INTRODUCTION.

On our return to England, in the beginning of November, 1820,
all the journals, logs, charts, and drawings, which had been furnished
by every individual belonging to the Expedition, were delivered to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, to be at their disposal; and
their Lordships were pleased immediately to direct them to be returned
into my hands, for the purpose of preparing for publication, under
their authority, an official account of the voyage.

In performing this duty, it has been my earnest endeavour equally
to avoid, on the one hand, a too minute and tedious detail of occur-
rences, which, as the materials for a future account, properly form a
part of a manuscript journal, but which, if given in their original
form, would only serve to tire by their repetition ; and on the other,
to omit nothing which came under my notice, and that may be con-
sidered interesting, either by the scientific or the general reader. It
having been suggested to me that both these purposes would be best
answered by throwing into an Appendix the whole of the matter
which relates exclusively to geography, natural history, and the details
of scientific observations, this method has been adopted ; except in
a few cases, in which it was considered expedient, for elucidating the
subject under consideration, to introduce a brief notice of them into
the body of the work, without occasioning any material interruption
in the Narrative.

The following account of the proceedings of the Expedition is taken
principally from the official Journal kept by myself on board the
Hecla, and always written within twenty-four hours after the occur-
rence of the events recorded in it. In several instances, however,
I have been happy to avail myself of the journals or reports furnished
by the other officers, in all which cases the obligation is acknowledged

INTRODUCTION.

IX

by inverted commas, and by personally mentioning the individual
who supplied the account.

The various observations made on board the Hecla during the
voyage, have been carefully collected into tables on the model of
those of Wales and Bayly, by Captain Sabine, to whom I am in-
debted for the arrangement of nearly the whole of the Appendix,
and for the superintendence of that part of the work during its
progress through the press. I feel it no less a duty than a pleasure
to acknowledge that, in the performance of this task. Captain Sabine
has added another to the many obligations I owe him, for his va-
luable advice and assistance during the whole course of this voyage,
to the credit of which -his individual labours have so essentially
contributed. Of the manner in which the subject of natural his-
tory, contained in the Appendix, has been treated by those gen-
tlemen who did me the favour to undertake the examination and
description of the specimens brought home by the Expedition, it
does not become me to speak; but I may be permitted to offer
them my best acknowledgments for the very handsome and ready
manner in which they rendered me their assistance on this oc-
casion.

The Drawings made by Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner were put
into the hands of skilful engravers, soon after the arrival of the ships
in the River, such of them being selected for publication as were
considered most likely to afford interest or entertainment. It must
be confessed, however, that there is little in the scenery of the Polar
regions on which "the art of the painter can be exercised with ad-
vantage; and the opportunities were necessarily the less frequent
on the late voyage, in consequence of the length of time which we

X

introduction.

were confined to one spot. Of the merit of the drawings made by
Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, I am not a competent judge,
further than as regards the accuracy and faithfulness of the delineation ;
and to this I am anxious to bear the most unqualified testimony,
no less than to the zeal and industry displayed by these gentlemen,
whenever opportunities olfered of performing this branch of their
duty, in compliance with their Lordships’ Instructions on that
head.

The Charts contained in this volume, comprising surveys of every
coast visited by the Expedition during the voyage, are reduced
from those drawn on board the Hecla' under my immediate in-
spection, by Mr. Bushnan, Midshipman of that ship, a gentleman
well skilled in the construction of charts, and in the art of marine
surveying. The original charts are lodged in the Hydrographical
Office of the Admiralty, together with a detailed account of all
the angles and other materials used in their construction. As it
was known that no reliance could be placed on the compasses from
the spot where our discoveries commenced (namely, from the
entrance of Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, westward), it was deter-
mined, from the first, altogether to reject magnetic bearings in
the construction of the charts, using only those deduced astrono-
mically from the sun’s altitude and azimuth, together with its angular
distance from the object whose true bearing was required. Astro-
nomical bearings were always thus obtained at the same time with
observations for latitude and longitude. Whenever it was considered
expedient to take them at other times, the log was of necessity re-
sorted to, in order to obtain the ship’s place from the nearest
observation; and when this time happened to fall nearly midway

INTRODUCTION.

XI

between two observations, the mean of the reckoning, worked
backwards and forwards, was taken, to fix the ship’s place. In the
selection of angles for the construction of the charts, those have, for
obvious reasons, been preferred, which were most easterly or westerly,
when an observation for latitude was made ; and those which were
most northerly or southerly, at the time of an actual observation
for determining the longitude. When angles only were taken, that
is, when the sun was obscured so as to prevent the possibility of ob-
taining his altitude and azimuth, the angles were used by laying them
off from one or more points, whose geographical position had been
previously fixed ; and by this means, in many instances, the former
angles have been found to correspond and intersect accurately, when
there would otherwise have been considerable doubt as to the exact
place of the ship. The observations for latitude and longitude have
been seldom or never made by less than two, and frequently by
three or four, observers, and a mean of these used in the con-
struction of the chart. The observers were generally Captain
Sabine, Lieutenant Beechey, Mr. Hooper, and myself; the angles
were taken with a sextant; sometimes by myself, and sometimes by
Lieutenant Beechey, to whose skill and industry in this depart-
ment of my duty, I am happy to acknowledge myself very materially
indebted.

A detailed account having been given by Captain Sabine in the
Appendix, of the chronometers used in obtaining the longitudes for
the survey, and of the mode of correcting their rates, it is unne-
cessary for me to add any thing on that subject, the care which has
been bestowed upon them being sufficiently apparent on an inspection
of the tables. In the daily winding of the chronometers. Captain

XU

INTRODUCTION.

Sabine was assisted by Mr. Hooper, purser of the Hecla, a gentleman
to whose' zeal and exertions, during a period of three years that
we have been employed together on this service, I am more indebted
than I can adequately express. By those who have been accustomed
to the charge of chronometers for any length of time, and who
know the weight and importance of that charge, it will be considered
as deserving no small credit on the part of these gentlemen, that, for
a period of nearly twenty months, during which, eleven chronometers
were on board the Hecla, only two instances occurred of a single
chronometer being suffered to go down by neglect.

The observations for the variation of the magnetic needle, made on
board the ships, have been altogether omitted in the course of the
narrative ; because, until a correction for the effects of local attraction
has been applied, they give little or no information as to the true
amount ; the whole, therefore, have been referred to the Appendix,
in the order in which they were taken. A number of these, obtained
for the express purpose of ascertaining the amount of the ship’s
attraction upon the needle, with her head placed in different di-
rections, and when the dip and true variation were known, will be
found useful, perhaps, towards establishing some general formula for
the correction of those errors at sea. Such a formula, however, is
the less important from the facility with which the amount of this
irregularity may at almost any time be found, when the sun is visible,
by taking azimuths on a north and south magnetic course, in order to
obtain the true variation, and then upon any other required direction
of the ship’s head. For the purposes of navigation, indeed, it is
generally necessary only to ascertain the variation to be allowed on
one or more courses, without regard to the true amount. This is par-

INTRODUCTION.

XIII

ticularly the case when magnetic bearings are made use of in the
construction of a chart, a mode of surveying which, of course,
will only be resorted to when absolutely necessary. In such cases,
it will be proper to observe the variation of the needle upon the
same course as that on which the bearings are taken ; by this means
a degree of correctness may be attained, which would be little
expected by those who are unaccustomed to adopt this precaution,
and most of those errors avoided, which it has been usual to attri-
bute to a defect in the compasses.

To avoid unnecessary repetition in the course of the following
Narrative, it must be remarked that all the bearings are the true ones,
unless otherwise expressly noticed ; and the whole of the latitudes are
Norths and the longitudes West from the meridian of Greenwich. The
temperatures were registered entirely by Fahrenheit’s thermometer,
and it may be necessary to inform the general reader, that the
signs + and — preceding any number of degrees, signify above or
below zero of that scale. i

The temperature of the sea at different depths was obtained, unless
otherwise noticed, by Sixe’s self-registering thermometer, confined
in an iron case, and attached to the deep-sea lead. The bottle used
for bringing up water from different depths below the surface, was
invented by Doctor Marcet, expressly for the use of this Expedition.
It consists of a strong and heavy cylindrical box of cast iron, having
a small aperture at each end ; through these apertures passes a bolt
which, when let down into its place, completely closes them, but
when held up by means of a catch in the upper part of the box,
allows the water to pass through them freely, both at the top and
bottom. Being thus set, it is let down to any depth required, by

XIV

INTRODUCTION.

a line passing through a hole in a spherical iron weight about
the size* of a four-pounder shot, which is retained on board till
the instrument is low enough ; the weight is then let go, and
running rapidly down the line, strikes the catch so as to release
it, j and close the apertures, confining the water which has entered
the cylinder. This instrument, from its extreme simplicity, and
the certainty with which it obtains the water from a known depth,
seems the best of any which has yet been adopted for this
purpose.

Care has been taken to avoid, as much as possible, the use of technical
expressions, which might serve to render the Narrative unintelligible
to any but seamen : as, however, such expressions cannot at all
times be dispensed with, especially in the navigation among ice,
the nature of which is totally different from any other, I have sub-
joined an Explanation of the few terms of this kind which occur
in the course of my Journal.

I had once thought to have cursorily drawn up a connected Nar-
rative of the numerous efforts and the results of former Expedi-
tions sent out, by this country and other maritime nations, to ex-
plore the Arctic regions, from the earliest periods to the present
time ; but as this would have occupied a considerable space, and,
after all, would have been but a brief abstract of what Forster,
Burney, and Barrow, have already done, it appeared, on second
thoughts, a superfluous undertaking. My motive indeed, it must be
frankly owned, was rather of a selfish kind, the gratification of myself
and comrades, by thus bringing together the repeated exertions of
two centuries, and those of a single voyage, and by instituting a com-
parison of their results, so favourable and so flattering to all of us

INTRODUCTION.

XV

who had the good fortune to be employed on that voyage. Here,
however, I must be permitted to say that, whatever the extent
of our success may have been, it is to be ascribed, in a great
degree, to the zealous and cordial cooperation of Lieutenant
Liddon and all the officers of both ships, and the uniform good
conduct of the men, to all of whom, collectively and indivi-
dually, I am most happy in availing myself of this opportunity,
of publicly rendering that justice which is so eminently their
due.

In closing this introductory part of the work, I would willingly
offer a few words by way of apology, for the many faults which, I
am but too well convinced, will be found in the stile of the
Narrative. It has been said, “ Les marins Scrivent mal, mats avec
assez de candeurJ'* None can feel more deeply than myself the truth of
the former part of this assertion ; and none, I can with equal sincerity
aver, have studied more to deserve the concluding part; but I
build my chief hopes of disarming the severity of criticism, on a
consideration of that early period of life at which the nature of
our profession calls us from our studies, and which, in my own
case, drew me away at the age of twelve, and has kept me
constantly employed at sea ever since. The extent of my aim has
been, to give a plain and faithful account of the facts which I
collected, and the observations which were made by myself and
others, in the course of the voyage ; and these, as far as they go, may
be relied on as scrupulously exact. It is for others, better qualified
than ourselves, to make their deductions from those facts.

We collected, and have brought home, specimens of the natural
productions of those seas and islands which we visited ; marking with

XVI

INTRODUCTION.

care the places at which they were respectively procured ; and it
is hoped, that the papers in the Appendix, relating to Natural History,
will shew that no great loss to tliat branch of science has been
sustained, by the absence of a professional naturalist in the Expe-
dition. In fact. Captain Sabine, in a great degree, supplied the
place of a person of this description; and to him, in particular,
the Appendix will shew, that science and philosophy stand greatly
indebted for a collection of facts and experiments, in a part of the
world hitherto but little known, and never before visited by Eu-
ropeans.

EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS

MADE USE OP IN THE COURSE OF THE
FOLLOWING NARRATIVE.

Bay-Ice. — Ice newly formed upon the surface.

Beset. — The situation of a ship, when so closely surrounded by ice, as to prevent her
sailing about.

Bight. — An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name it is sometimes called.

Blink. — A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere which is almost always perceptible in
approaching ice, or land covered with snow. — Land-blink is usually more yellow
than that of ice.

Bore. — The operation of “boring” through loose ice consists in entering it under a press
of sail, and forcing the ship through by separating the masses.

Clear Water. — The sea unincumbered with ice.

CR0W^S-1*^est. — A circular house, like a cask, fixed at the mast-head, in which the look-
out man sits, either to guide the ship through the ice, or to give notice of
whales.

Dock. — An artificial dock is formed by cutting out with saws a square space in a thick
floe, in which a ship is placed, in order to secure her from the pressure of other
masses which are seen to be approaching, and which might otherwise endanger
her being “ nipped.” — A “ natural dock” is simply a small bight, accidentallv
found under similar circumstances.

Field. — A sheet of ice, generally of great thickness, and of such extent that its limits
cannot be seen from a ship’s mast-head.

Floe. — The same as a field, except that its extent can be distinguished from a ship’s mast-
head.— A “ bay-floe” is a floe of ice newly formed upon the surface.

A Hole, or Pool of Water. — A small space of clear water, surrounded by ice on
every side.

Land Ice.— Ice attached to the land, either in floes, or in heavy grounded masses, forced
up near the shore by external pressure.

XVlll

EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS.

A Lead. — A channel through the ice. — A ship is said to take a right lead, when she
follows that channel which conducts her into a clear, or at least, a navigable
sea, and vice versa.

f^iPPED. — To be forcibly pressed between two or more masses of ice.

A Pack. — A large body of loose ice, whose extent cannot be seen.

A Patch of Ice. — The same as a pack, but of small dimensions.

Sailing-Ice. — Ice of which the masses are so much separated, as to allow a ship to sail
among them without great difficulty.

A Tongue. — A mass of ice projecting under water, in a horizontal direction, from an ice-
berg or floe.— -A ship sometimes grazes, or is set fast on a tongue of ice,
which may, however, generally be avoided, being easily seen in smooth water.

A Water-Sky. — A certain dark appearance of the sky which indicates clear water in that
direction, and which, when contrasted with tlie blink over ice, or land, is very
conspicuous.

Young Ice. — The same as bay -ice.

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS

-By the Commissioners for executing the Office of
Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland^ <fc. c^c.

W HEREAS we have thought fit to appoint you to the command
of an Expedition, for the purpose of endeavouring to discover a
North-West Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; you
are hereby required and directed to put to sea in the Hecla, and,
in company with the Griper, which, with her commander Lieutenant
Liddon, has been placed under your orders, make the best of
your way to the entrance of Davis’ Strait.

On your arrival in this Strait, your further proceedings must be
regulated chiefly by the position and extent of the ice ; but, on
finding it sufficiently open to permit your approach to the western
shores of the Strait, and your advance to the northward as far as

XX

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

the opening into Sir James Lancaster's Sound, you are to proceed
in the first instance to that part of the coast, and use your best
endeavours to explore the bottom of that Sound ; or, in the event
of its proving a strait opening to the westward, you are to use all
possible means, consistently with the safety of the two ships, to
pass through it, and ascertain its direction and communications ;
and if it should be found to connect itself with the northern sea,
you are to make the best of your way to Behring’s Strait.

If, however, you should ascertain that there is no passage through
Sir J ames Lancaster’s Sound, but that it is enclosed by continuous
land, or so completely blocked up with ice as to afford no hope
of a passage through it, you are in that case to proceed to the north-
ward, and in like manner examine Alderman Jones’s Sound. Fail-
ing to find a passage through this Sound, you are to make the
best of your way to Sir Thomas Smith’s Sound, which is described
by Baffin as the largest in the whole bay ; and carefully explore,
as far as practicable, every part of it, as well as of any strait you
may discover, leading from it into any other sea. On failing to make
a passage through this Sound, you are to return to the southward
down Baffin’s Bay, and endeavour to make your way through Cum-
berland Strait, or any opening in that neighbourhood which may
lead you to the seas adjoining the eastern or northern coast of
America ; you are then, by whatever course you may have reached
these seas, to pursue your voyage along that coast, to the northward
or westward to Behring’s Strait.

We have hitherto supposed that, on your first arrival in Davis’
Strait, the navigation to the northward shall be found practicable.
If, however, you should find the contrary to be the case, and that

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

XXI

the sea towards the western side of the Strait is so loaded with ice,
as to render it difficult and dangerous for the ships to proceed so
far to the northward as Lancaster Sound, at so early a period of
the season ; it may be advisable, in that case, to endeavour in the
first instance, to examine Cumberland Strait, or any other opening
that may be likely to bring you to the eastern coast of America,
in preference to the loss of time and the danger to the ships,
which might be occasioned in persevering too anxiously in the at-
tempt to get to Lancaster Sound; and should you, on your first
reaching Davis’ Strait, find it to be impracticable to make your
way up the western side of the Strait to that Sound, or even to
Cumberland Strait, you will understand, that you are at liberty
to proceed towards those places, going round by a more easterly track,
if the state of the ice, and all other circumstances, should induce you
to think it most advisable to do so. Thus, although the track,
which we wish you to pursue, if practicable, is pointed out ; you
will, nevertheless, perceive, that the course to be finally adopted
by you for getting to the northward, is, in fact, left to your own
discretion, on a careful" examination into the state of the ice on
your arrival in Davis’ Strait ; always bearing in mind, that, it is
an important object of the Expedition, that Lancaster Sound be
thoroughly examined by you, and afterwards those of Jones and
Smith, if you should have failed in previously finding a passage to
the westward.

Should you be so successful as to find a passage to the westward,
it will be advisable to make the best of your way, without stopping
to examine any part of the northern coast of America, to Behring’s
Strait ; and if you should fortunately accomplish your passage

XXll

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

through that Strait, you are then to proceed to Kamtschatka (^if
you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by the ice
on that coast), for the purpose of delivering to the Russian Governor,
duplicates of all the J ournals and other documents which the passage
may have supplied, with a request that they may be forwarded
over-land to St. Petersburg!!, to be conveyed from thence to London.
From Kamtschatka you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, or
Canton, or such other place as you may think proper, to refit the
ships and refresh the crews ; and, if during your stay at such place,
a safe opportunity should occur of sending papers to England, you
should send duplicates by such conveyance. And, after having re-
fitted and refreshed, you are to lose no time in returning to England,
by such route as you may deem most convenient.

If, at any period of your voyage, but particularly after you shall
have doubled the north-eastern extremity of America, the season
shall be so far advanced* as to make it unsafe to navigate the ships, on
account of the long nights having set in, and the sea not being free
from ice ; and the health of your crews, the state of the ships, and all
concurrent circumstances, should combine to induce you to form the
resolution of wintering in those regions, you are to use your best en-
deavours to discover a sheltered and safe harbour, where the ships
may be placed in security for the winter; taking such measures for
tlie health and comfort of the people committed to your charge, as
the materials with which you are supplied for housing-in the ships, or
hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do. And, if you shall
find it expedient to resort to this measure, and you should meet with
any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near the place where
you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in your power, to

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

XXIIl

cultivate a friendship with them, by making them presents of such
articles as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or
agreeable to them. You will, however, take care not to suffer yourself
to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly
on your guard against any hostility.

You will endeavour to prevail on them, by such reward, and to be
paid in such manner, as you may think best to answer the purpose, to
carry to any of the settlements of the Hudson’s Bay Company, or of
the North-West Company, an account of your situation and pro-
ceedings ; with an urgent request that it may be forwarded to England
with the utmost possible despatch.

In an undertaking of this description, much must, of course, be always
left to the discretion of the commanding officer ; and, as the objects
of this Expedition have been fully explained to you, and you have
already had some experience on service of this nature, we are con-
vinced we cannot do better than leave it to your judgment, when on
the spot, in the event of your not making a passage this season, either
to winter on the coast, with the view of following up next season,
any hopes or expectations which your observations this year may
lead you to entertain, or to return to England, to report to us the
result of such observations ; always recollecting our anxiety for the
health, comfort, and safety of yourself, your officers, and men ; and
further considering how far the advantage of starting next season
from an advanced position, may not be counter-balanced by what
may be suffered during the winter, and by the want of such re-
freshment and refitting, as would be afforded by your return to
England.

We deem it right to caution you against suffering the two

XX.IV

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

vessels placed under your orders to separate, except in the event
of accident or unavoidable necessity, and we desire you to keep
up the most unreserved communications with the commander of
the Griper; placing in him every proper confidence, and ac-
quainting him with the general tenor of your orders, and with
your views and intentions, from time to time, in the execution
of them; that the service may have the full benefit of your
united efforts in the prosecution of such a service; and that,
in the event of unavoidable separation, or of any accident to
yourself. Lieutenant Liddon may have the advantage of knowing,
up to the latest practicable period, all your ideas and inten-
tions, relative to a satisfactory completion of this interesting under-
taking.

We also recommend, that as frequent an exchange take place,
as conveniently may be, of the observations made in the two
ships ; that any scientific discovery made by the one be, as
quickly as possible, communicated for the advantage and guidance
of the’ other, in making their future observations ; and to increase
the chance of the observations of both being preserved.

We have caused a great variety of valuable instruments to be put
on board the ships under your orders ; of which you will be furnished
with a list, and for the return of which you will be held responsible ;
and we have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council
of the Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Hecla,
Captain Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who is represented to us as
a gentleman well skilled in Astronomy, Natural History, and various
branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such observations as
may tend to the improvement of Geography and Navigation, and the

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

XXV

advancement of science in general. Amongst other subjects of scien-
tific inquiry, you will particularly direct your attention to the variation
and inclination of the magnetic needle, and the intensity of the mag-
netic force ; you will endeavour to ascertain how far the needle may
be affected by the atmospherical electricity, and what effect may be
produced on the electrometer and magnetic needle on the appearance
of the Aurora Borealis. You will keep a correct register of the tem-
perature of the air, and of the sea, at the surface and at different
depths. You will cause the dip of the horizon to be frequently
observed by the dip sector, invented by Dr. Wollaston ; and ascer-
tain what effect may be produced by measuring that dip across fields
of ice, as compared with its measurement across the surface of the
open sea. You will also cause frequent observations to be made for
ascertaining the refraction, and what effect may be produced by
observing an object, either celestial or terrestrial, over a field of ice,
as compared with objects observed over a surface of water: together
with such other meteorological remarks as you may have opportunities
of making. You are to attend particularly to the height, direction,
and strength of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the currents ;
the depth and soundings of the sea, and the nature of the bottom ;
for which purpose you are supplied with an instrument better calcu-
lated to bring up substances than the lead usually employed for this
purpose.

And you are to understand, that although the finding a passage from
the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main object of this Expedition, yet,
that the ascertaining the correct position of the different points of the
land on the western shores of Baffin’s Bay, and the different observa-
tions you may be enabled to make with regard to the magnetic influ-

XXVI

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

ence in that neighbourhood, supposed to be so near the position of
one of the great magnetic poles of the earth, as well as such other
observations as you may have opportunities of making in Natural
History, Geography, ^c., in parts of the globe, ^c., little known,
must prove most valuable and interesting to the science of our
country; and we, therefore, desire you to give your unremitting
attention, and to call that of all the officers under your command, to
these points; as being objects likely to prove of almost equal import-
ance to the principal one before-mentioned, of ascertaining whether
there exist any passage to the northward, from the one ocean to the
other.

■ For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the currents in
the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more frequent chances of hear-
ing of your progress, we desire that you do, frequently after you have
passed the latitude of 65° north, and once every day, when you shall
Tse in an ascertained current, throw overboard a bottle, closely sealed,
and containing a paper stating the date and position at which it is
launched ; and you will give similar orders to the Commander of the
Griper, to be executed in case of separation ; and, for this purpose,
we have caused each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is
printed, in several languages, a request, that whoever may find it
should take measures for transmitting it to this office.

And although you are not to be drawn aside from the main object of
the service on which you are employed, as long as you may be
enabled to make any progress ; yet, whenever you may be impeded
by the ice, or find it necessary to approach the coasts of the continent
or islands, you are to cause views of bays, harbours, headlands,
to be carefully taken, to illustrate and explain the track of the vessels.

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

XXVll

or such charts as you may be able to make ; in which duty you will be
assisted by Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, whose skill in drawing
is represented to be so considerable, as to supersede the necessity of
appointing professional draughtsmen.

You are to make use of every means in your power to collect and
preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral, and vegetable king-
doms, as you can conveniently stow on board the ships ; and of the
larger animals you are to cause accurate drawings to be made, to
accompany and elucidate the descriptions of them : in this, as well as
in every other part of your scientific duty, we trust that you will
receive material assistance from Captain Sabine.

In the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the
two ships, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled ship
to be removed into the other ; and with her singly to proceed in pro-
secution of the voyage, or return to England, according as circum-
stances shall appear to require ; understanding that the officers and
crews of both ships are hereby authorized and required to continue to
perform their duties, according to their respective ranks and stations,
on board either ship to which they may be so removed, in the event
of an occurrence of this nature. Should, unfortunately, your own
ship be the one disabled, you are, in that case, to take the command
of the Griper ; and, in the event of any fatal accident happening to
yourself, Lieutenant Liddon is hereby authorized to take the command
of the Hecla, placing the officer of the Expedition, who may then be
next in seniority to him in command of the Griper ; also, in the event
of your own inability by siqkness or otherwise, at any period of this
service, to contiuue to carry these Instructions into execution, you are
to transfer them to the officer the next in command to you employed

XXVlll

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

on the Expedition, who is hereby required to execute them in the
best manner he can, for the attainment of the several objects in
view.

His Majesty’s Government having appointed Lieutenant Franklin
to the command of an expedition to explore the northern coast of
North America, from the mouth of the Copper-mine River of Hearne ;
it would be desirable, in the event of your touching on that coast, to
leave some testimonial of your having been there, with the date, and
such circumstances as you may find convenient, for the lieutenant’s
information ; and you will do the same wherever you may stop on
that coast, by erecting a pole, having a flag, or some other mark by
which it may be distinguished at a distance, (and you should endea-
vour to place such mark on the situation in which it may be most ex-
tensively visible,) and burying a bottle at the foot of it, or otherwise,
containing an abstract of your proceedings and future intentions ;
corresponding instructions having been given to Lieutenant Franklin
to leave a similar notice at any convenient part of the coast which
he may discover between the mouth of the said river and the eastern
part of North America.

You are, while executing the service pointed out in these Instruc-
tions, to take every opportunity that may offer of acquainting our
Secretary, for our information, with your progress : and on your arrival
in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to
lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course
of your voyage ; taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand
from the officers, petty officers, and all other persons on board, the
logs and journals they may have kept ; together with any drawings
or charts they may have made ; which are all to be sealed up ; and

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

XXIX

and you will issue similar directions to Lieutenant Liddon and his
officers, t^c. ; the said logs, journals, or other documents, to be there-
after disposed of as we may think proper to determine.

Given under our hands the 1st day of May, 1819.

(Signed) Melville,

G. Moore,

G. COCKBURN.

By Command of their Lordships,

(Signed) J. W. Croker.

To

Lieutenant William Edward Parrp
Commanding His Majesty s
Ship the Hecla.

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VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

OF A

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

CHAPTER I.

PASSAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC ENTER DAVIs" STRAIT UNSUCCESSFUL

ATTEMPT TO PENETRATE THE ICE TO THE WESTERN COAST VOYAGE UP

THE STRAIT PASSAGE THROUGH THE ICE TO THE WESTERN COAST

ARRIVAL OFF POSSESSION BAY, ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF THE ENTRANCE
INTO SIR JAMES LANCASTER'S SOUND.

The Hecla and Griper were ready to drop down the river in the early part I819.
of April ; but, the wind continuing to the eastward, the pilots would not
venture to turn them down. The wind remained in the same quarter till the
beginning of May, beyond which time it would not have been prudent to
delay our moving. Application was, therefore, made for a steam-boat to tow
the ships to Northfleet, and on the 4th, at eight A.M., the Hecla was taken in
tow by the Eclipse, of sixty -horse power. With a fresh breeze right a-head,
she moved at the rate of three miles and a-half an hour through the water, and
was made fast to the buoy at Northfleet at a quarter past noon. The steam-
boat returned to Deptford for the Griper, and arrived with her at night.

The guns and gunner’s-stores were received on board on the 6th ; and,
all the iron being now stowed, as it would probably remain for the rest of
the voyage, the afternoon of that day was occupied in obtaining some steady
observations on the irregularities of the magnetic needle on board the Hecla,
by turning her head round to each point of the compass in succession. These
observations will be found in the Appendix.

B

2

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. The ships took their powder on board on the 7th, and moved to the Lower-
Hope. On the evening of the following day they anchored at the Nore,
where the instruments and chronometers were embarked. I furnished Lieu-
tenant Liddon with a complete copy of the Instructions which I had received
from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, together with an order
containing general directions for the economical use of the provisions and
stores, and for the mode of registering the various observations to be made
during the voyage ; appointing also certain places of rendezvous in case of
unavoidable separation.

Captain Sabine went on shore at Garrison-Point, on the Qth,^ to make ob-
servations on the magnetic force with some needles of a new construction by
Captain Henry Kater. Of these observations an account by Captain Sabine
will be found in the Appendix.

Commissioner Boyle came onboard on the evening of the 10th, to superin-
tend the payment of the arrears of wages, and three months’ advance, to the
seamen and marines. On the following day, when the men had supplied
themselves with a sufficient stock of clothes, according to a list which had
been previously issued, the ships weighed at ten A.M., and at noon were
abreast the Nore-light. The wind being free, the Hecla, at sunset, had out-
sailed the Griper about three miles.

Wed. 12. Finding the Griper continued to detain us this morning, I determined to
take her in tow, and at three P.M. we ran through Yannouth Roads, but
anchored in the evening with the flood-tide, the wind being too light to
enable the ships to stem it. Soon after midnight we again weighed, the
Frid. 14. wind having got round to the N.b.W. On the m,orning of the 14th, in
beating to the northward, the Hecla touched the grouud ou the east end of
Sheringham-Shoals, Cromer Light-house bearing S.b.E. per compass. The
pilot should not have brought it to the eastward of south, on which bearing
there is no danger. Finding the ships made no way, and that it would
not be practicable to anchor with the lee-tide, we bore up for Yarmouth
Roads, and anchored within the Cockle Gat at two P.M.

Sat. 15. At noon on the following day, while getting under weigh, I received a
visit from Captain Wells, of His Majesty’s sloop the Wye, who kindly offered
every assistance in his power, and sent us our last supply of English beef,
as we passed his ship. A favourable breeze springing up ou the morning of
Sun. 16. the 16th, the Griper was taken in tow, and at two P.M. on the lAth, we made
Wed. 19. Fair Island. ’

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

3

It fell calm in the evening, and several fine cod (Gadus MorhmJ and coal- 1819.
fish f Gadus Cdrbonarius ) were caught ; the centre of the island bearing N.E.
half N. per compass, distant eight or nine miles. This was the last supply
of fresh fish that we obtained during the voyage. It was light enough at mid-
night, to see Fair Island distinctly at the distance of ten miles.

On the 20th, we spoke the Danish brig David Eske, from Copenhagen, Thur. 20.
bound to Disko Islahd. The Griper was taken in tow again in the evening,
and we rounded the northern-point of the Orkneys, at the distance of two
miles and a half^ having from thirty to thirty-six fathoms of water.

We made the island of Rona on the 21st., and Bara on the following Frid. 21,
morning. The position of these islands by our observations is : Sat. 22.

BARA. RONA.

/ Latitude, . . . 59° Oh' 24'^ 59° 05' 54".

Longitude, . . 6° 14' 34". 5‘ 52' 04".

As we ran along to the northward of them, at the distance of six or seven
miles, the soundings were from fifty to seventy-five fathoms, the deepest being
off Bara, on a bottom of gravel, coarse sand, and broken shells.

It is recommended by the most experienced of the Greenland Masters, to
cross the Atlantic to Davis’ Strait, about the parallel of 57^° or 58°, and I
shaped oUr course accordingly. A bottle was thrown overboard, containing
a printed paper, stating the date and the situation of the ships, with a request,
in six European languages, that any person finding it would forward it to the
Secretary of the Admiralty, with a notice of the time and place where it was
found*. One bottle, at least, was thrown out daily during the voyage,
except when the ships were “ beset” in the ice.

The wind being right aft on the morning of the 24th, the Griper, still in Mon. 24.
tow, took the wind out of our sails, and forged a-head, obliging us to cast
off the hawser. Soon after noon we made Rockall; its latitude, by our
observations, was 57° 38' 40", and its longitude 13° 47' 42". The geogra-
phical position of this remarkable rock was determined by Captain Capel, in
1818, to be lat. 57° 39' 32", long. 13° 31' 16", which is to be preferred to

* The purpose intended to be answered by this kind of communication, will be best
understood, by referring to my Instructions from the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty.

4.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. ours, owing to the distance at which we passed it. There is, perhaps, no
more striking proof of the infinite value of chronometers at sea, than the
certainty with which a ship may sail directly for a single rock like this, rising
like a speck out of the ocean, and at the distance of forty-seven leagues from
any other land. At seven P.M., the Griper having again dropped five or six
miles astern, we hove to for her to come up ; and, taking this opportunity to
try the temperature of the water below the surface by Six’s self-registering
thermometer, we unexpectedly obtained soundings in one hundred and
forty fathoms, on a bottom of very fine white sand, Rockall bearing S. 85°
E., distant thirty miles and three-quarters. The temperature of the water at
the bottom was that of the surface being 4Q^°, and of the air 50°. The
Griper was again taken in tow, with a breeze from the eastward, which in-

Tues. 25. creased to a fresh gale the following morning, when the hawser, by which
we towed the Griper, gave way ; we hove to for her in the evening, being
in lat. 57° 04' 10", long. 17° 52' 50", when some water was brought up from
one hundred fathoms’ depth in the bottle contrived by Doctor Marcet ; its
specific gravity was 1.0268, at the temperature of 58°, that of the surface
water being the same. The temperature of the water at the same depth was
49°, that of the surface being 50°, and of the air 50|°.

Thur. 27. On the 27th, we cast olf the Griper, and hauled a little to the northward,
in order to pass near the spot where Lieutenant Pickersgill obtained sound-
ings, from three hundred and twenty to three hundred and thirty fathoms,
on the 29th of June, 1776; and, at six P.M., being in lat. 56° 59' 39", and
long, by chronometers, 24° 33' 40", the deep-sea clamms were sent down
with one thousand and twenty fathoms of line, without finding bottom.
The temperature of the sea at that depth was 45^°, that of the surface being
48i°, and of the air 49°.

Frid. 28. It fell Calm towards noon on the 28th, the ship being in lat. 57° 26' 16",
long. 25° 11' 51". The current was tried in a boat moored by an iron kettle,
in the usual way, but not the smallest stream was perceptible. Six’s ther-
mometer was sent down to one hundred and twenty fathoms, but did not
indicate the temperature, owing to the mercury rising past the index, instead
of pushing it up before it ; a failure I have often had occasion to regret in
this useful instrument, when thus exposed to a very sudden change of
temperature. It might, perhaps, be improved for this particular purpose,
by making the lower end of each index a little larger, so as to prevent the
passage of the mercury between it and the tube. Some water, from one

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

5

hundred and thirty fathoms’ depth, was at the temperature of 48° on coming ^19-
to the surface, that of the surface being 49”, and of the air 49°, Its specific

gravity was 1.0266 at the temperature of 61°, being the same as that of the
surface-water.

The wind veered to the westward on the 30th, and increased to a fresh Sun. 30.
gale, with an irregular sea, and heavy rain, which brought us under our
close-reefed topsails. At half-past one, P.M., we began to cross the space
in which the “ Sunken Land of Bus” is laid down in Steel’s chart from
England to Greenland ; and, in the course of this and the following day, we
tried for soundings several times without success, the ship’s position being
as follows:

LATITUDE.

LONGITUDE.

FATHO

57° 46' - - -

- - 29° 20'---

- - 160

57 49 - - -

-- 29 22 ---

- - 90

58 02 - - -

-- 29 32 ---

- - 80

58 07 - - -

-- 29 34 ---

- - 85

5814---

-- 29 46---

- - 100

58 13 - - -

.. 30 52 - - -

- - 170

This being the anniversary of His Majesty’s birth-day, and the weather June
being calm and fine, I directed an additional allowance of grog to be served
out, or, in seamen’s phrase, “ the main brace to be spliced,” In the evening,
being then in lat. 55° 01', and long. 35° 56', we tried for soundings with
two hundred and fifty fathoms of line, without finding bottom. The
temperature of the sea at that depth was 44g°, surface 444”,

On the 7th and 8th, we had hard gales from the westward, with a heavy 7 and 8.
sea. Indeed, from the 1st to the 14th of June, we experienced a continued
series of unfavourable winds and unpleasant weather, so that very little
progress could be made to the westward.

On the 13th, being in lat, 57° 51', and long. 41° 05', the temperature of Sun. 13.
the sea, at two hundred and thirty-five fathoms’ depth, was found to be
39°, surface 404°, air 414°. ^ very slight current was found to set to the

southward. We saw, to-day, large flocks of sheerwaters (Procellaria Puffiiius),
called by the sailors, “ cape hens,” from an idea that they are only to be
found near Cape Farewell. I do not remember to have met with these birds
in any other part of Davis’ Strait, or in Baffin’s Bay.

On the 15th, a breeze sprung up from the eastward, and at noon we very Tues. 15.

6

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. unexpectedly saw land at a great distance, bearing due north. This could be
no other than the land about Cape Farewell, of which the longitude, by our
chronometers, being the same as that of the ship, was 42° 56' 4<V', agreeing
nearly with that given in the tables of Maskelyne, Mendoza Rios, and Robertson,
and in the Comaissance des Terns, being from 2° to 3° to the eastward of the po-
sition assigned to it in most of the charts. This accounts for a remark, which is
common among the whalers, that they always make this headland, in coming
from the eastward, sooner than they expect ; a circumstance which they natu-
rally attribute to the effect of a westerly current. If the latitude of Cape Farewell
be so far to the northward as 59° 37' 30", which is the mean of nine different
authorities, our distance from it this day must have been more than forty
leagues. It is by no means impossible that the bold land of Greenland may
be distinguished at so great a distance ; and it is proper to remark, that the
weather, at the time we saw it, was precisely that which is said to be most
favourable for seeing objects at a great distance, namely, just before or after
rain, when the humidity of the atmosphere increases its transparency*.

Wed. 16. The wind again backed to the westward on the 16th, and we stretched to the

Thur. 17. northward towards the land. On the evening of the 17th, being in lat. 58° 52',
and long. 48° 12', the colour of the water was observed to be of a lighter green
than that of the ocean in general ; but we could find no soundings with two
hundred and ninety fathoms of line. The temperature of the sea at that depth
was 3S|°, of the surface, 38|, and of the air, 38|°.

Frid. 18. Early in the morning of the 18th, in standing to the northward, we fell in
with the first “ stream” of ice we had seen, and soon after saw several ice-
bergs. At daylight the water had changed its colour to a dirty brownish tinge.
We had occasion to remark the same in entering Davis’ Strait in 1818, when
no difference in its temperature was perceptible. The temperature of the wa-
ter this morning was 36| °, being 3° colder than on the preceding night ; a de-
crease that was probably occasioned by our approach to the ice. W e ran through
a narrow part of the stream, and found the ice beyond it to be “ packed” and
heavy. The birds were more numerous than usual ; and, besides the fulmar
petrels, boatswains, and kittiwakes, we saw, for the first time, some rotges
C Aka Alle,J dovekies, or black guillemots (Colymbns Grylle ), and terns (Sterna
Hirimdo J, the latter known best to seamen by the name of the Greenland swal-
low. Soon after noon, being in lat. 59° 40', long. 47° 46', and the water being

* Humboldt. Personal Narrative, 1. pp. 81. 101, 102.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

7

of the same colour as in the morning, we tried for soundings, but could find no 1819,
bottom with two hundred and sixty fathoms. The temperature of the sea at
that depth was 39°, that of the surface being then 37°. and of the air 35°. The
specific gravity of the surface water which at noon was 1 .0262, at the temperature
of 56°, had decreased to 1.0257, at that of 57°. On the 19th, at noon, we were Sat. 19.
in latitude, by observation on the ice, 59° 48' 26"*, and in longitude, by the
chronometers, 48° OT 50", when a current was found to set S. 50° W. at the rate
of six miles per day, A breeze springing up from the eastward, we bore away
to the W.N.W., through rather close “ sailing ice.” The fog which had pre-
vailed during the day cleared away in the evening, and discovered to us the
coast of Greenland, bearing from N. 3° W. to N. 62° E,, at the distance of twelve
or thirteen leagues. On the following morning a very remarkable hill, being the Sund, 20,
highest land in sight, was found, by a base measured by Massey’s patent log, to
be in lat. 60° 53' 29", and long, 48° 42' 22". This position answers nearly to an
island called Nona in Arrowsmith’s chart, a little to the eastward of Cape De-
solation. The water still continued of the same dirty colour as before; but at
half past four P.M., when we hove to, for the purpose of taking the Griper in
tow, we could find no bottom with a hundred and forty fathoms of line. On
the evening of the 21st, having run to the westward as far as 55° 01' W. in the Mon. 21.
lat. of 61° 26', we observed the colour of the water to have changed from the
brownish tinge before-mentioned, to a light bluish green ; and it is remarkable
that its specific gravity was found to have increased, within a few hours,
from 1.0257 to 1.0261, both being at the temperature of 57° when weighed.

These experiments seem to confirm those made on the 18th, and to render
it highly probable, that the brown colour remarked in the sea was occasioned
by the admixture of a large portion of fresh water, supplied by the melting
of the snow and ice.

On the 21st and 22d, we sailed to the W.N.W. in an open sea; and, on Tues, 22.
the 23d, at noon, being in lat. 62° 43' 09", long. 61° 32' 49", we saw several Wed. 23.
icebergs, and some loose ice, to the north-westward. We obtained soundings

*' The ice here having a motion which was very perceptible in the artificial horizon, we
had recourse to a mode of observing the meridian altitude, which we had occasionally
adopted in the former voyage. Two observers brought the same limb of the sun down in
separate horizons ; the first of these taking care never to allow the two images to separate
entirely, and the second never permitting them to overlap. The mean of the two ob-
servations being then taken, the error arising from the rolling motion of the ice may thus be
in a great measure obviated, and the altitude obtained within the nearest minute.

8

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. in the evening in two hundred fathoms, fine sandy bottom, being close to a
large iceberg, from which copious streams of water were flowing on the side
next the sun.

Thur.24. On the clearing up of a fog, on the morning of the 24th, we saw a long
chain of icebergs, extending several miles in a N.b.W. and S.b.E. direction ;
and, as we approached them, we found a quantity of “ floe-ice” intermixed
with them, beyond which, to the westward, nothing but ice could be seen.
At noon, being in lat. 63° 34' 24", long. 61° 34' 28", we had soundings, with
one hundred and twenty fathoms of line, on a bottom of fine sand, which
makes it probable that most of the icebergs were aground in this place.
In the afternoon, we sailed within the edge of the ice, as much as a light
westerly wind would admit, in order to approach the western land, as
directed by my instructions. Some curious effects of atmospheric refraction
were observed this evening, the low ice being at times considerably raised
in the horizon, and constantly altering its appearance. An iceberg, at the
distance of two or three miles from us, assumed an inverted shape, as in
the following figure :

Inverted Image.

Iceberg.

Frid.25. The weather being nearly calm on the morning of the 25th, all the boats
were kept a-head, to tow the ships through the ice to the westward. It
remained tolerably open till four P.M., when a breeze, freshening up from
the eastward, caused the ice through which we had lately been towing, to
close together so rapidly, that we had scarcely time to hoist up the boats
before the ships were immoveably “ beset.” The clear sea which we had
left was about four miles to the eastward of us, while to the westward
nothing but one extensive field of ice could be seen. It is impossible to
conceive a more helpless situation than that of a ship thus beset, when all
the power that can be applied will not alter the direction of her head a
Sat. 26. single degree of the compass. On the 26th, we were in lat. by observation,
63° 59' 29", and long. 61° 42' 58", having one hundred and twenty-five
fathoms, on a fine sandy bottom. The deep-sea line indicated a drift to
the S.b.W. Some of our gentlemen, having walked a mile or two from the
ships, imagined that they saw the marks of a sledge upon the ice, but, as

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

9

no traces either of dogs or of one human foot appeared, they were perhaps is 19.
mistaken.

The observations made here on the dip and variation of the magnetic
needle, and on the intensity of the magnetic force, as well as the result
of a number of lunar distances, obtained on this and the two following
days, while thus beset, will be found in the Appendix. The wind increased
to a strong gale from the northward, which continued the whole of the
following day; when we found by observation that the ships had drifted Sund. 27.
S. 23° W., thirteen miles and a quarter, the soundings having decreased to
one hundred and twenty fathoms.

A large black whale, (Balceria Mysticetus,) being the first, was seen near
the ships. It is usual for these animals to descend head-foremost, displaying
the broad fork of their enormous tail above the surface of the water ; but,
on this occasion, tlie ice was so close as not to admit of this mode of descent,
and the fish went down tail-foremost, to the great amusement of our Green-
land sailors.

As long as the wind continued to blow strong towards the ice, so as to
keep it close, the ships lay securely sheltered from the sea ; but at nine in
the evening, when it veered a little to the westward, the ice became more
slack, and we began to feel the elfects of the swell which was thus admitted
from without ; each roll of the sea forced the heavy masses of ice against
the rudder and counter with such violence as would have greatly endan-
gered a ship built in the ordinary way ; strengthened as ours were, however,
they escaped without damage. Frequent endeavours were made to heave
the heads of the ships round, in order that they might receive the heaviest
pressure on their bows, but every attempt proved unsuccessful, and we re- Mon. 28.
•mained in the same unpleasant situation during the whole of the 28th.

While in this state, a large white bear came near the Griper, and was
killed by her people, but he sunk between the pieces of ice. This animal
had, probably, been attracted by the smell of some red herrings which the
men were frying at the time. It is a common practice with the Greenland
sailors to take advantage of the strong sense of smelling which these creatures
possess, by enticing them near the ships in this manner.

The swell had somewhat subsided on the 29th, but the ships remained Tues. 29.
finnly fixed in the ice as before. In the course of the day we saw land
bearing N. 69° W. about thirteen leagues distant, appearing from the mast-
head like a group of islands, and situated near to the entrance of Cumber-

c

10

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. land Strait; the soundings were one hundred and thirty-five fathoms ; the
temperature of the sea at that depth 30° ; that of the surface being the same ;

Wed. 30, and of the air 3d°. On the 30th, the ice began to slacken alittle more about
the sliips ; and, after two hours’ heaving with a hawser on each bow brought
to the capstan and windlass, we succeeded in moving the Hecla about her own
length to the eastward, where alone any clear sea was visible. The ice con-
tinuing to open still more in the course of the day, we were at length
enabled to get both ships into open water, after eight hours’ incessant labour.

Our first attempt to approach the western coast having thus failed, I
consulted the Greenland Masters, as to what were the most likely means
to be adopted for effecting this object, Mr. Allison thought it would
be advisable to run a degree or two back again to the southward ; while
Mr. Fife was of opinion, that it might be attempted, with better chance
of success, about the latitude of Mount Raleigh, which forms one side of the
narrowest part of Davis’ Strait. I determined on the latter, as being more
confoiTnable to the tenor of my instructions ; and a course was accordingly
shaped close along the edge of the ice, which led us considerably to the
eastward of north, in order to take advantage of any opening which might
occur. On getting into clear water, we found that the rudders were much
rubbed by the blows they had received while beset in the ice,

July. On the 1st and 2d of July, we continued to keep close to the edge of the

1 St & 2d. ice, without perceiving any opening in it. Its outer margin consisted of heavy
detached masses, much washed by the sea, and formed what is technically
called “ a pack,” this name being given to ice when so closely connected as
not to admit the passage of a ship between the masses. Within the margin
of the pack, it appeared to consist of heavy and extensive floes, having a
bright ice-blink over them ; but no clear water could be discovered to tha
westward. The birds, which had hitherto been seen since our first approach
to the ice, were fulmar petrels, little auks, looms, fUria Brunnichii,) and a
few glaucous gulls, (Larus Glaucus.J

Sat. 3. On the morning of the 3d the wind blew strong from the eastward, with a
short breaking sea and thick rainy weather, which made our situation for
some hours rather an unpleasant one, the ice being close under our lee.
Fortunately, however, we weathered it by stretching back a few miles to the
southward. In the afternoon the wind moderated, and we tacked again to
the northward, crossing the Arctic circle at four P.M., in the longitude of
57° 27 W. We passed at least fifty icebergs in the course of the day, many

M' Ji'/w Mu/niv. f./'/uirn, .V//7rrJi. fy'.jSxJ.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

11

of them of large dimensions. At a quarter past five P.M., we sounded in 1819.
one hundred and fifteen fathoms ; the water at the surface of the sea had the
same brownish tinge which has already been noticed, but no difference in
its temperature or specific gravity could be detected. Towards midnight,
the wind having shifted to the south-west, and moderated, another exten-
sive chain of very large icebergs appeared to the northward; as we ap-
proached them the wind died away, and the ships’ heads were kept to the
northward, only by the steerage way given to them by a heavy southerly
swell, which, dashing the loose ice with tremendous force against the
bergs, sometimes raised a white spray over the latter to the height of more
than one hundred feet, and being accompanied with a loud noise, exactly
resembling the roar of distant thunder, presented a scene at once sublime
and terrific. We could find no bottom near these icebergs with one hundred
and ten fathoms of line.

At four A.M., on the 4th, we came to a quantity of loose ice, which lay Sun. 4.
straggling among the bergs ; and, as there was a light breeze from the southward,
and I was anxious to avoid, if possible, the necessity of going to the eastward,

I pushed the Hecla into the ice, in the hope of being able to make our way
through it. We had scarcely done so, however, before it fell calm ; when the
ship became perfectly unmanageable, and was for some time at the mercy of
the swell, which drifted us fast towards the bergs. All the boats were
immediately sent a-head to tow ; and the Griper’s signal was made, not to
enter the ice. After two hours’ hard pulling, we succeeded in getting the
Hecla back again into clear water, and to a sufficient distance from the
icebergs, which it is very dangerous to approach when there is any swell.

At noon we were in lat. 66" 50' 47", long. 56° 47' 56", being near the
middle of the narrowest part of Davis’ Strait, which is here not more than
fifty leagues across. Davis, on returning from his third voyage, sets it down
at forty leagues* ; and in another place remarks : “In the latitude of
sixtie-seuen degrees, I might see America, west, from me, and Desolation,
(Greenland), eastf.” The truth of this last remark had been much doubted,
till the observations made on our expedition of 1818, by determining the
geographical position of the two coasts thus seen by Davis, served to confirm
the accuracy of that celebrated and able navigator.

* Collection of Voyages.

t The Worlde’s Hydrographicall Discription, 1595.

12

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. On the 5th, it was necessary to pass through some heavy streams of ice,
in order to avoid the loss of time by going round to the eastward. On

Mond. 5. g^g Qjj many other occasions, the advantage possessed by a ship of
considerable weight in the water, in separating the heavy masses of ice, was
very apparent. In some of the streams, through which the Hecla passed, a
vessel of a hundred tons less burthen must have been immoveably beset.
The Griper was on this, and many other occasions, only enabled to follow
the Hecla by taking advantage of the openings made by the latter.

Tues. 6. At noon, on the 6th, being in lat. 67° 44i' 05", long. 57° 46' 26", we
had soundings in one hundred and seventy-two fathoms, on a bottom of
shining sand, mixed with small black specks. A number of looms were
killed, which being very good to eat, were served to the officers and
ship’s company. A herd of sea-horses (Trichecus Rosmarus) being seen
lying on a piece of ice, our boat succeeded in killing one of them.
These animals usually lie huddled together, like pigs, one over the other,
and are so stupidly tame, as to allow a boat to approach them, within a few
yards, without moving. When, at length, they are disturbed, they dash
into the water in great confusion. It may be worth remarking, as a proof
how tenacious the walrus sometimes is of life, that the animal killed to-day
struggled violently for ten minutes after it was struck, and towed the
boat twenty or thirty yards, after which, the iron of the harpoon broke ;
and yet it was found, on examination, that the iron barb had penetrated
both auricles of the heart. A quantity of the blubber was put into casks,
as a winter’s supply of lamp-oil.

Wed. 7. On the 7th, in standing to the northward, we came to a stream of ice, three
quarters of a mile wide, which obstructed our passage in that direction. The
wind died away as soon as we had entered the stream, and it required six hours’
rowing in the boats to tow the ships into clear water beyond it. It is curious to
observe, in passing under the lee of ice, however small its extent or height above
the sea, an immediate decrease in the strength of the wind. This effect cannot
be attributed to any degree of shelter afforded by the ice, as, in the cases to
which I allude, it is, perhaps, not more than a single foot above the surface
of the sea. At noon, being in lat., by observation, 68° 24' 52", and in long.
57° 00' 43", we obtained soundings in a hundred and seventy-five fathoms, on a
bottom of greenish-coloured mud, into which the lead sunk several inches.
At two P.M. a thermometer in the sun rose to 70°, the temperature of the
shade being 44°, and the weather perfectly calm and cloudless. The card

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

13

commonly used in Walker’s Azimuth Compass had traversed so sluggishly for 1819.
some days past, that it was now found necessary to substitute a lighter one,
supplied by the maker for this purpose. The looms and tern were numerous
near the ice.

On the 8th, at noon, we observed, in lat. 68° 30' 01", and long. 57° 22' 57", Thur. 8.
being 6' 51" to the southward, and 9' 53" to the eastward of the dead reckon-
ing. We sounded in a hundred and seventy-eight fathoms’ water, the bottom
being of the same nature as on the preceding day.

On the 9th, having reached the latitude of 68° 45' 53", long. 57° 49' 51", the Frid. 9.
ship was found to have made less northing by eleven miles and three quarters
than the log gave. The soundings were a hundred and fifty-two fathoms, the
lead being covered with soft green mud, mixed with sand and gravel.

Large flocks of tern and looms were seen about the ice. A northerly wind
prevented our making much progress, for the ice was still so compact in every
part, as to render it impossible to penetrate to the westward ; and nothing,
therefore, remained to be done but to make the best way we could, by beat-
ing to the northward along the edge of the pack.

On the 10th a thick fog came on, which made great caution necessary in Sat. 10.
sailing, there being a great many icebergs near us. There is, however, even
in the thickest fog, a strong reflection of light from these immense bodies of
ice, which, with an attentive look-out, is generally visible at a sufficient dis-
tance to enable the navigator, if in smooth water, to avoid coming in contact
with them.

At noon, the wind being still against us, we had only reached the lat. of
69° 04' 28", being 9' 49" to the southward of the dead reckoning. The long, by the
chronometers, was 58° 10' 30", being 23' 47'' to the eastward of the account in
two days. We obtained soundings in a hundred and sixty-seven fathoms, on
a bottom of green mud, with a little sand and gravel. At night the fog froze
as it fell upon the rigging, making it difficult to work the ship among the ice.

A large bear (Ursus Maritimus J being seen on a piece of ice, near which we Sun. li.
were passing this morning, a boat was despatched in pursuit, and our people
succeeded in killing and towing it on board. As these animals sink immediately
on being mortally wounded, some dexterity is requisite to secure them, by first
throwing a rope over the neck, at which many of the Greenland seamen are
remarkably expert. It is customary for the boats of the whalers to have two
or three lines coiled in them, which not only gives them great stability, but,
with good management, makes it difficult for a bear, when swimming, to put

14.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. his paw upon the gunwale, which they generally endeavour to do; whereas,
with our boats, which are more light and crank, and therefore very easily
heeled over, I have more than once seen a bear on the point of taking pos-
session of them. Great caution should, therefore, be used under such circum-
stances in attacking these ferocious creatures. We have always found a board-
ing-pike the most useful weapon for this purpose. The lance used by the
whalers will not easily penetrate the skin, and a musket-ball, except when
very close, is scarcely more efficacious.

We sounded at noon in two hundred and two fathoms, being in lat. by ac-
count, 69° 24' 40", long. 58° 16' 42", without making any allowance for the
current, which, for the three preceding days, appeared to have been setting
the ships to the S.S.E., at the rate of from eight to thirteen miles per day.

In the afternoon, on the clearing up of the fog, we found ourselves so sur-
rounded by ice, in every direction, that it became necessary to stretch to the
eastward, to avoid the risk of being again beset, a circumstance which might
have occasioned a serious loss of time. A great number of seals were seen as
Ave sailed through the ice, but very seldom two together.

Mon. 12. The Aveather Avas again so thick on the 12th, thatAve could seldom see above
three or four hundred yards. The sun being visible, hoAvever, Captain Sabine
and myself left the ship, and ascended an iceberg, in order to obtain the me-
ridian altitude, Avhich gave us the lat. of 69° 42' 43 ", and Avhich was 8' 20"
to the southAvard of the dead reckoning, our longitude, by account, being
57° 46' 13 ". Streams of the purest water Avere floAving from this berg, a luxury
not so often enjoyed by seamen in any other navigation, and Avhich is, per-
haps, of essential importance in the preservation of health, Avhere scurvy is the
disease most to be apprehended. The fog froze so hard upon the sails and
rigging during the night, that I believe some tons Avere shaken off in the

Tiies. 13. morning, to enable us to handle the ropes, and to Avork the ship Avith greater
facility. The fields of ice and the icebergs must occasionally, during the
summer, receive a considerable addition by this kind of deposit. Of the lat-
ter, Avhen the fog had cleared aAvay for a short time in the evening, we counted
no less than sixty-tAvo of large dimensions, at no great distance from us, be*
sides a number of smaller ones. We Avere, at noon, in lat. by account, 70° 06' 32",
and in long. 57° 33' 56", having a hundred and forty-seven fathoms’ water, on
a muddy bottom.

Wed. 14. The Aveather continued so foggy on the 14th, that very little progress could
be made. We caught some fine specimens of the Clio Borealis, called by the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

15

sailors whales’ food, and also of Beroes, which were very numerous near the
surface of the water.

On the 15th, the fog being still as thick as before, our latitude, observed on Thur. 15.
an iceberg, was 70° 28' 52"; while that observed on board by Lieut. Beechey,
with Captain Rater’s altitude-instrument, was 70° 27' 43", the difference accord-
ing exactly with the bearing and distance of the iceberg from the ship. The
longitude was 59° 1 T 58", and the variation of the needle, as observed upon
the ice, had increased to 79° 48' westerly. Mr. Fisher made an experiment
on the specific gravity of berg-ice. Having formed a piece of this ice into a
cube, whose sides measured sixty-eight lines, he floated it in a tub of sea-
water, of the specific gravity 1.0256, and at the temperature of 33°, when nine
lines remained above the surface of the water, being nearly one-eighth.

On the 16th, in running along the edge of the ice with a fresh breeze from Frid. 16.
the south-west, we passed the Brunswick, whaler, of Hull, beating to the
southward. She crossed within hail of the Griper, and the master infonned
Lieutenant Liddon that he had, on the 11th, left a large fleet of fishing-ships
about the latitude of 74°, unable to proceed farther to the northward. We had
been stopped in a similar manner, and in the same place, on the voyage of
1818, which renders it not improbable, that, at this period of the year, the
same obstruction will generally be found to occur about that latitude. The
annual experience of the whalers has, indeed, long ago, made it evident, that
the facility with which a ship may sail up Davis’ Strait, depends entirely
upon the season at which the attempt is made. For the first fortnight in
June, it is seldom practicable to get much beyond the Island of Disko, or
about the latitude of 69° to 70°. Towards the 20th of that month, the ships
usually reach the great inlet, called North-East Bay ; and, by the end of
June, the ice allows them, though not without great exertion, to penetrate
to the Three Islands of Baffin, which lie just beyond the seventy-fourth
degree of latitude. From that time till about the end of August, the ice
presents, almost daily, less and less obstruction ; so that, if the object be
simply to sail as far north as possible into Baffin’s Bay, without regard to the
capture of whales, there is every reason to believe that a ship, entering Davis’

Strait on the 1st of July, may sail into the latitude of 74“ or 75“, without
meeting with any detention on account of the ice, and, perhaps, without
even seeing the land till she arrive in a high latitude.

On the I7th, the margin of the ice appearing more open than we had yet Sat. 17.
seen it, and there being some appearance of a “ water-sky” to the north-

I

16

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

July.

Sun. 18.

west, I was induced to run the ships into the ice, though the weather was
too thick to allow us to see more than a mile or two in that direction. We
were, at noon, in latitude .72° 00' 21''', longitude 59’ 46' 18", the depth of
water being one hundred and ninety fathoms, on a muddy bottom. The
wind shortly after died away, as usual, and, after making a number of tacks,
in order to gain all we could to the westward, we found ourselves so closely
hemmed in by the ice on every side, that there was no longer room to work
the ships, and we therefore made them fast to a floe, till the weather should
clear up. The afternoon was employed in taking on board a supply of water
from the floe. It may be proper at once to remark that, from this time till
the end of the voyage, snow-water was exclusively made use of on board the
ships for every purpose. During the summer months, it is found in abun-
dance in pools upon the floes and icebergs, and in the winter snow was
dissolved in the coppers for our daily consumption. The fog cleared away
in the evening, when we perceived that no further progress could be made
through the ice, into which we had sailed to the westward about twelve
miles. We were, therefore, once more under the necessity of returning
to the eastward, lest a change of wind should beset the ships in their
present situation. Previously, however, to our return, we made some ob-
servations, on the ice, for the variation and dip of the magnetic needle,
the former of which was found to be 80° 55' 27''' W., and the latter 84" 14' 9" .
A thick fog came on again at night, and prevailed till near noon on the 18th,
when we came to a close but narrow stream of ice, lying exactly across our
course, and at fight angles to the main body of the ice. As this stream
extended to the eastward as far as we could see from the “ crow’s-nest,” an
endeavour was made to push the ships with all sail through the narrowest
part. The facility with which this operation, technically called “ boring,” is
performed, depends chiefly on having a fresh and free wind, with which we
were not favoured^on this occasion ; so that, when we had forced the ships about
one hundred yards into the ice, their way was completely stopped. The
stream consisted of such small pieces of ice, that when an attempt was made
to warp the ships a-head by fastening lines to some of the heaviest masses
near them, the ice itself came home, without the ships being moved for-
ward. Every effort to extricate them from this helpless situation proved
fruitless for more than two hours, when the Hecla was at length backed out,
and succeeded in pushing through another part of the stream in which a small
opening appeared just at that moment. All our boats were immediately

Z‘uhlisJ‘ic/i hy ^rLi?7'£iv, f?.i02i.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

17

despatched to the assistance of the Griper, which still remained beset, and 1819.
which no effort could move in any direction. We at length resorted to
the expedient of sending a whale-line to her from the Hecla, and then
making all sail upon the latter ship, we succeeded in towing her out, head
to wind, till she was enabled to proceed in clear water. The crossing of
this stream of ice, of which the breadth scarcely exceeded three hundred
yards, occupied us constantly for more than five hours, and may serve as an
example of the detention to which ships are liable in this kind of navigation.

In the course of the afternoon, one of the Hecla’s boats was upset by the
ice, and Mr. Palmer, with all her crew, thrown out of her ; but, by getting
upon the ice, they fortunately escaped with no other injury than a thorough
wetting.

The wind having veered to the northward, we tacked off and on, beating Mon. 19.
along the edge of the ice, in which no opening appeared, to encourage a
hope of getting through it to the westward. At noon we had reached the
lat. of 72° 31' 58", and long. 59° 03' 5T', our soundings being one hundred
and forty-two fathoms, on a muddy bottom. In the afternoon, a ship
running to the southward, and which we supposed to be one of the home-
ward-bound whalers, passed us at the distance of seven miles.

At noon, on the 20th, we were in lat., by account, 72° 57' 31", long. 58° 40' 57", Tues. 20.
and the depth of water was one hundred and twenty fathoms, the bottom
consisting of mud, with small black stones. At this time, the weather being
perfectly calm, with a thick fog, we perceived that a current, setting to the
S.S.W., was drifting the ship towards a large iceberg in that direction ; and a
quantity of floe-ice, which was driving the same way, threatened to enclose
us between it and the berg. All the boats were instantly lowered, and sent
a-head to tow, by which means we cleared the berg, just one minute before
the floe-ice came forcibly in contact with it, surrounding it on every side.

This iceberg was about one hundred and forty feet high in one part, and from
the soundings we obtained near it, must have been aground in one hundred
and twenty fathoms, so that its whole height was about eight hundred and
sixty feet. The weather continued so foggy during the rest of the day,
that it required our utmost attention to keep clear of the numerous ice-bergs
which lay in our way.

Early on the morning of the 21st, the fog cleared away, and discovered to Wed. 21.
us the land called by Davis Hope Sanderson, and the Woman’s Islands,
being the first land we had seen in sailing northwards into Baffin’s Bay, from

D

18

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

July.

Thur. 22.

the lat. of 63|o, We found ourselves in the midst of a great number of
very high icebergs, of which I counted from the crow’s nest, eighty-eight,
besides many smaller ones. We tacked immediately to the westward, in
order to take advantage of the only clear weather we had enjoyed for the
last fourteen days, to examine the state of the ice, and observed at noon, in
lat. 72° 58' 13", the long., by chronometers, being 58° 42' 11". The
soundings were two hundred and twenty-eight fathoms, muddy bottom,
having deepened from one hundred and six, in sailing eight miles to the
westward.

Having now reached the latitude of 73°, without seeing a single opening
in the ice, and being unwilling to increase our distance from Sir James Lan-
caster’s Sound, by proceeding much farther to the northward, I determined
once more to enter the ice in this place, and to try the experiment of
forcing our way through it, in order to get into the open sea, which the
experience of the former voyage led me to believe we should find upon the
western coast of Baffin’s Bay. This determination was strengthened by the
recollection of the serious obstructions we had met with the preceding
year, in the neighbourhood of Prince Regent’s Bay, where greater detention,
as well as danger, had been experienced, than on any other part of that
coast. Being now, therefore, favoured with clear weather, and a moderate
breeze from the south-eastward, we ran into the ice, which, for the first
two miles, consisted of detached pieces, but afterwards of floes of con-
siderable extent, and six or seven feet in thickness. The wind died away
towards midnight, and the weather was serene and clear. The altitude of
the sun on the meridian below the pole, gave the latitude 72° 59' 13", being
11' 57" to the southward of that deduced from the observations of the
preceding and following noons, which error may, perhaps, be attributed to
the elevation of the horizon by terrestrial refraction. The temperature of
the air at this time was 40°; of the water, 34°, and the barometer stood
at 29.57 inches. A large bear was seen on one of the floes, and we
passed the tracks of many others.

On the 22d. the wind was light from the eastward, and we made very
little progress. We had occasionally to heave the ships through with
hawsers, between the heavy masses of ice, which became more and more
close as we advanced, till, at length, towards the evening, we were fairly
beset, there being no open water in sight from the mast-head in any quarter
of the compass. Some hands were kept constantly employed in heaving

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

19

the ships through the ice, taking advantage of every occasional opening is 19.
which presented itself, by which means we advanced a few hundred yards
to the westward during the night.

At six, A.M., on the 23d, a thick fog came on, which rendered it impos- Frid. 23,
sible to see our way any further. It often happens, in thick weather, that
much distance is lost by ships taking a wrong “ lead,” as the channels
between floes of ice are technically called ; so that, on the weather
clearing, it is discovered, when too late, that another opening, perhaps
a few yards only from that through which they had sailed, would have
conducted them into clear water. We, therefore, warped to an iceberg,
to which the ships were made fast at noon, to wait the clearing up
of the fog, being in lat. 73° Od' 10', long. 60° 09' 07". The soundings
were one hundred and ninety-seven fathoms, on a muddy bottom, and
the variation of the needle 82° 33' 21" westerly. Some observations
on the intensity of the magnetic force, by Captain Sabine, will be found
in the Appendix, At eight, P.M., the weather cleared up, and a few
small pools of open water were seen here and there, but the ice was
generally as close as before, and the wind being to the westward of north,
it was not deemed advisable to move. When ships are thus beset, there
is a great advantage in securing them to the largest body of ice that can be
jfound, and particularly to the bergs, as they are by this means better
enabled to retain their situation, the drift of the ice being generally less,
in proportion to its depth under water. Another advantage in securing a
ship to an iceberg is, that these bodies usually keep a small space of clear
water under their lee, in consequence of the quicker drift of the floes and
loose ice to leeward. It not unfrequently happens that a ship is thus dragged
into clear water, as the sailors express it, that is, that the whole of the
floe-ice is carried to leeward past the berg to which the ship is attached,
leaving her at length in an open sea.

The ice appearing to open a little in the W.N.W., on the morning of the Sat. 24.
24ith, preparations were made for warping the ships in that direction, the
wind being still to the westward of north, but the fog came on again so
thick, that it was necessary still to remain at the berg. At noon, by our
observations, we were in lat, 72° 59' 50", long. 60° 07' 54", making a drift
of four miles and two-thirds in twenty-four hours, in a S. 1° E. direction.

The soundings had deepened to two hundred and sixty-five fathoms, the
bottom being light-green mud. The afternoon was occupied in obtaining

20

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. azimuths on board the Hecla, with her head on different points of the
compass, in order to ascertain the amount of the irregularities of the magnetic
needle produced by local attraction. These observations will be found in
the Appendix, and, by comparison with those previously made at Northfleet,
will serve to shew in what degree the irregularities alluded to had increased
with the increase of dip, and with the consequent diminution in the
directive power of the earth’s magnetism upon the needle.

Sun. 25. The weather being clear on the morning of the 25th, and a few narrow
lanes of water appearing to the westward, the Griper was made fast astern
of the Hecla ; and her crew being sent to assist in manning our capstan, we
proceeded to warp the ships through the ice. This method, which is often
adopted by our whalers, has the obvious advantage of applying the whole
united force in separating the masses of ice which lie in the way of the first
ship, allowing the second, or even third, to follow close astern, with very
little obstruction. In this manner we had advanced about four miles to the
westward, by eight P.M., after eleven hours of very laborious exertion ; and
having then come to the end of the clear water, and the weather being again
foggy, the ships were secured in a deep “ bight,” or bay in a floe, called by
the sailors a “ natural dock.” An extra allowance of meat and spirits was
served to the ships’ companies, and all hands were permitted to go to rest
till the state of the weather and of the ice should become more favourable.

Mon. 26. Early on the morning of the 26th, there was clear water as far as we
could see to the westward, which, on account of the fog, did not exceed the
distance of three hundred yards. We made sail, however, and having
groped our way for about half a mile, found the ice once more close in every
direction, except that in which we had been sailing, obliging us to make
the ships fast to a floe. I sent a boat away to endeavour to find a lane of
clear water leading to the westward. She returned on board in an hour,
without success, having with difficulty found her way to the ship, by our mus-
quets, and other signals. The latitude here, by observation, was 73° 02' 17",
long., by chronometers, 60° IT 52", by which the drift of the ice in the last
twenty-four hours appears to have been N. T E., five miles and three
quarters, or in a direction nearly opposite to that of the wind. The
soundings were two hundred and eight fathoms, on a muddy bottom.
At half-past three, P.M., the weather cleared up, and a few narrow lanes
of water being seen to the westward, every exertion was immediately made
to get into them. On beginning to heave, however, we found that the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

21

hole” of water, in which the Hecla lay, was now so completely enclosed 1819.
by ice, that no passage out of it could be found. We tried every corner,
but to no purpose ; all the power we could apply being insufficient to move
the heavy masses of ice which had fixed themselves firmly between us and
the lanes of water without. In the mean time. Lieutenant Liddon had
succeeded in advancing about three hundred yards, and had placed the
Griper’s bow between two heavy floes, which it was necessary to separate
before any further progress could be made. Both ships continued to heave
at their hawsers occasionally, as the ice appeared to slacken a little, by
which means they were now and then drawn ahead a few inches at a time,
but did not advance more than half-a-dozen yards in the course of the night.

By our nearing several bergs to the northward, the ice appeared to be
drifting in that direction, the wind being moderate from the southward.

About three A.M., by a sudden motion of the ice, we succeeded in getting Tues. 27.
the Hecla out of her confined situation, and ran her up astern of the Griper.

The clear water had made so much to the westward, that a narrow neck of
ice was all that was now interposed between the ships and a large open
space in that quarter. Both ships’ companies were, therefore, ordered upon
the ice to saw off the neck, when the floes suddenly opened, sufficiently to
allow the Griper to push through under all sail. No time was lost in the
attempt to get the Hecla through after her, but, by one of those accidents
to which this navigation is liable, and which renders it so precarious and un-
certain, a piece of loose ice which lay betAveen the two ships, was drawn
after the Griper by the eddy produced by her motion, and completely
blocked the narrow passage through Avhich we Avere about to folloAV. Before
we could remove this obstruction by hauling it back out of the channel, the
floes were again pressed together, wedging it firmly and immoveably
betAvixt them ; the saws Avere immediately set to Avork, and used with great
effect, but it Avas not till eleven o’clock that Ave succeeded, after seven hours’
labour, in getting the Hecla into the lanes of clear Avater which opened more
and more to the westAvard. Our latitude, by account at noon, Avas 73’ 05' 56",
the longitude 60° 24' 27".

Being now favoured with a fresh breeze from the S.E.b.S., Ave made con-
siderable progress, though on a very crooked course, to the northward and
westward. In one respect the character of the ice Avas here altered, as Ave
found a great many floes of “ young” or “ bay” ice, which had probably
been newly formed in the sheltered situations afforded by the larger floes.

22

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. To avoid the necessity of going round, or where no other channel presented
itself, we ran through several of these bay-floes, which were from four to six
inches thick, ploughing up the ice before the ship’s stem, at the rate of five
miles an hour. If they were not very broad, the Hecla did not lose her
way in passing through them. Frequently, however, she was stopped in
the middle, which made it necessary to saw and break the ice a-head, till
she made another start, and, having run a short distance in clear water, was
again imbedded in the same manner. We passed one field of ice, about ten
feet in thickness, and many miles in length, as we could not see over it
from the mast-head. This was the only “ field,” according to the definition
applied to that term by the whalers, that I had ever seen in Baffin’s Bay.
About eleven P.M. the lanes of open water a-head became very contracted, and
at half-past eleven, in endeavouring to force through a floe, under a heavy press
of canvass, the Hecla was completely wedged in, having run her own length
into it, though its thickness was between a foot and eighteen inches. In the
course of this day’s sailing, the ships received many severe blows from the
ice, but apparently suffered no damage. The concussions which the chrono-
meters experienced were, perhaps, such as few watches of this kind had
ever before been exposed to ; but we did not subsequently discover that any
alteration had taken place in their rates, in consequence of them.

Wed. 28. The wind continued to blow strong from the south-east with heavy rain;
and at half-past three A.M., after several hours’ sawing, in which the men
suffered much from wet and fatigue, we succeeded in getting clear; but after
running a quarter of a mile, were again beset in the same manner. By the
time the Griper had joined us, we had once more unavoidably hampered the
Hecla among the ice, and did not succeed in extricating her till four P.M.,
after which we found so much clear water as we proceeded, that, with the
exception of a few streams and “ patches,” which we met with on the
following day, and through which the ships sailed without much difficulty,
we had now passed every impediment which obstructed our passage to
Sir James Lancaster’s Sound. The breadth of this barrier of ice, which
occupies the middle of Baffin’s Bay, and which had never before been crossed
in this latitude at the same season, was eighty miles, in a N. 63° W. di-
rection. I have been thus particular and minute, perhaps tediously so,
in detailing our endeavours to obtain a passage through the ice to the
western coast of Baffin’s Bay, in order to shew how necessary it is to per-
severe and not to be discouraged by frequent failures, nor deterred from

/

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

23

entering the ice by the apprehension of being beset. By taking advantage 1819.
of every little opening that is afforded, I believe that a strong-built vessel of
proper size and weight may, in most seasons, be pushed through this barrier
which occupies the centre part of Baffin’s Bay, about this parallel of latitude.

It must, at the same time, be confessed, that, had we not been favoured
with strong south-easterly winds, it would probably have required several
days longer to effect this passage.

On the 29th, we had so much clear water, that the ships had a very per- Thvir. 29
ceptible pitching motion, which, from the closeness of the ice, does not
very often occur in the Polar regions, and which is, therefore, hailed with
pleasure, as an indication of an open sea. At noon we had reached, by the
dead reckoning, the latitude of 73° 51' 17'', and longitude 67° 47' 51", and
we could find no bottom with three hundred and ten fathoms of line. At
five P.M. the swell increased considerably, and, as the wind freshened up
from the north-east, the ice gradually disappeared ; so that by six o’clock we
were sailing in an open sea, perfectly free from obstruction of any kind.

During the time we had been beset among the ice, the temperature of the
air, in the shade, had varied from 28° to 38°, except in very clear and calm
weather, when the thermometer had occasionally risen to 42°. The tem-
perature of the water had been almost uniformly from 31° to 33°, but
soon after our leaving the ice this evening, it increased to 37°, which tem-
perature continued for a run of sixty-three miles to the westward, and then
fell to 32° and 33°, till we had entered Sir James Lancaster’s Sound.

At four A.M. on the 30th, two or three ice-bergs were in sight, being the Frid. 30
first we had seen since leaving the ice to the eastward. It is probable that
these, together with some streams of ice which occurred in the afternoon, pro-
duced the diminution in the temperature of the sea, to which I have alluded
above, and which took place soon after noon on this day. The Griper detain-
ing us considerably, and the sea being now sufficiently open to allow us to
take her in tow, we hove-to at nine A.M. for that purpose.

We now seemed all at once to have got into the head-quarters of the
whales. They were so numerous that I directed the number to be counted
during each watch, and no less than eighty-two are mentioned in this day’s
log. Mr. Allison, the Greenland master, considered them generally as
large ones, and remarked, that a fleet of whalers might easily have obtained
a cargo here in a few days. It is, I believe, a common idea among the
Greenland fishermen, that the presence of ice is necessary to ensure the

24

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. finding of whales; but we had no ice in sight to-day, when they were
most numerous. At noon we observed, in lat. 74° 01' 57", being the first
meridian altitude v/e had obtained for four days, and ditfering from the
dead reckoning only two miles, which is remarkable, considering the slug-
gishness of the compasses, and would seem to afford a presumptive proof
that no southerly current exists in this part of Baffin’s Bay. The longitude,
by chronometers, was 75° 02' 14". In the afternoon the vrind broke us
off from the N.N.W., which obliged us to cast off the Griper, and we carried
all sail a-head to make the land. We saw it at half-past five P.M., being the
high land about Possession Bay, and at the same time several streams of loose
but heavy ice came in sight, which a fresh breeze was drifting fast to the
south-eastward. Sir James Lancaster’s Sound was now open to the westward
of us, and the experience of our former voyage had given us reason to believe
that the two best months in the year for the navigation of these seas were yet
to come. This consideration, together with the magnificent view of the lofty
Byam Martin mountains, which forcibly recalled to our minds the events of
the preceding year, could not fail to animate us with expectation and hope.
If any proof vrere wanting of the value of local knowledge in the navigation of
the Polar Seas, it would be amply furnished by the fact of our having now
reached the entrance of Sir James Lancaster’s Sound just one month earlier
than we had done in 1818, although we had then sailed above a fortnight
sooner, with the same general object in view, namely, to penetrate to the
western coast of Baffin’s Bay, where alone the North-west Passage was to be
sought for. This difference is to be attributed entirely to the confidence which I
felt, from the experience gained on the former voyage, that an open sea would
be found to the westward of the barrier of ice which occupies the middle of
Baffin’s Bay. Without that confidence, it would have been little better than
madness to have attempted a passage through so compact a body of ice, when
no indication of a clear sea appeared beyond it.

The Hecla’s cables were bent, and the Griper’s signal made to do the same.
As we approached the land, the wind drew directly out of the sound, which is
commonly found to be the case in inlets of this nature, in which the Avind
generally bloAvs directly up or down. A flock of white ducks, believed to be
male eider-ducks, were seen in the afternoon, flying to the eastward.

Sat. 31. The wind increased to a fresh breeze on the morning of the 31st, which
prevented our making much way to the westward. We stood in towards Cape
Byam Martin, and sounded in eighty fathoms on a rocky bottom, at the distance

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

25

of two miles in an east direction from it. We soon after discovered the flag- 1819.
staff which had been erected on Possession Mount on the former expedition ;
an object which, though insignificant in itself, called up every person imme-
diately on deck to look at and to greet it as an old acquaintance. The Griper
being considerably astern, I thought it a good opportunity to go on shore,
in order to make some observations, while she was coming up. Captain
Sabine and myself, therefore, left the ship, and landed in the same spot,
near the mouth of the stream in Possession Bay, where observations had
been made the preceding year. We found so much surf on the beach as to
make it necessary to haul the boat up, to prevent her being stove. A
number of loose pieces of ice had been thrown up above the ordinary high-
water mark ; some of these were so covered by the sand which the sea
had washed over them, that we were at a loss to know what they were, till
a quantity of it had been removed. From the situation and appearance of
these masses, it occurred to some of us that similar masses, found under
ground in those spots called Kaltusw, in the islands near the coast of Siberia,
might thus have been originally deposited.

The land immediately at the back of Possession Bay rises in a gentle
slope from the sea, presenting an open and extensive space of low ground,
flanked by hills to the north and south. In this valley, and even on the hills,
to the height of six or seven hundred feet above the sea, there was scarcely
any snow, but the mountains at the back were completely covered with it.

The bed of the stream which winds along the valley is in many places several
hundred yards wide, and in some parts from thirty to forty feet deep ; but the
quantity of water which it contained at this season was extremely small
in proportion to the width between the banks, not exceeding forty feet on
an average, and from one to three feet only in depth near the mouth of the
stream. This feature is common in every part of the Polar regions in
which we have landed ; the beds, or ravines, being probably formed by the
annual dissolution of the snow during a long series of years. Some pieces
of birch-bark having been picked up in the bed of this stream, in 1818, which
gave reason to suppose that wood might be found growing in the interior, I
directed Mr. Fisher to walk up it, accompanied by a small party, and to occupy
an hour or two, while the Griper was coming up, and Captain Sabine and
myself were employed upon the beach, in examining the nature and pro-
ductions of the country.

Mr, Fisher reported, on his return, that he had followed the stream between

E

26

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

three and four miles, where it turned to the south-west, without discovering
any indications of a wooded country ; but a sufficient explanation respecting
the birch-bark was, perhaps, furnished by his finding, at the distance of a
quarter of a mile from the sea, a piece of whalebone two feet ten inches in
length, and two inches in breadth, having a number of circular holes very
neatly and regularly perforated along one of its edges, and which had un-
doubtedly formed part of an Esquimaux sledge. This circumstance affording
a proof of the Esquimaux having visited this part of the coast at no very distant
period, it was concluded that the piece of bark, above alluded to, had been
brought hither by these people. From the appearance of the whalebone, it
might have been lying there for four or five years. That none of the Esqui-
maux tribe had visited this part of the coast since we landed there in
1818, was evident from the flag-staff then erected still remaining untouched.
Mr. Fisher found every part of the valley quite free from snow as high
as he ascended it ; and the following fact seems to render it probable that no
great quantity either of snow or sleet had fallen here since our last visit.
Mr. Fisher had not proceeded far, till, to his great surprise, he encountered
the tracks of human feet upon the banks of the stream, which appeared so
fresh, that he at first imagined them to have been recently made by some
natives, but which, on examination, were distinctly ascertained to be the
marks of our own shoes made eleven months before.

The only animals we met with were a fox, a raven, (Corms Corax,) some
ring-plovers, (Charadriiis Hiaticula), snow-buntings, and a wild bee, (Apis
Alpina.) Several tracks of bears and of a cloven-footed animal, probably
the rein-deer, were also observed upon the moist ground. Three black whales
were seen in the bay, and the crown-bones of several others were lying
near the beach. Considerable tufts of moss and of grass occur in this
talley, principally in those parts which are calculated to retain the water
produced by the melting of the snow. Indeed, moisture alone seems ne-
cessary to the growth of a variety of plants which are found in this dreary
climate, and of which a detailed account will be given in the Appendix.
Mr. Fisher, who had an opportunity of examining some of the fixed rocks,
considered them to consist principally of basalt. A great quantity of lime-
stone was found in the valley, together with pieces of granite, quartz, feldspar,
trap, and sandstone.

The latitude observed at the mouth of the stream was 73° 31' 16'', and the
longitude by the chronometers, 77° 22' 21", the latter differing only 1'30'' to

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

27

tlie eastward of that obtained on the same spot, by No, 509 of Earnshaw,
the preceding year. The dip of the needle was 86° 03' 42 ", and the variation
108° 46' 35", westerly, agreeing nearly with that observed by Lieutenant
Hoppner, in 1818. At half-past ten A.M., when we landed, the tide was
falling by the shore, and continued to do so till about half an hour before
noon ; the surf on the beach, however, did not allow me to determine the
time with very great precision. By the mean of our observations made now,
and in the foregoing year, the time of high water on full and change days,
would appear to be about a quarter past eleven. At two P.M., the water
had risen two feet and a half, and the whole rise of tide, as nearly as we
could judge from the marks on the beach, may be from six to eight feet.
The stream certainly came from the northward and westward along the shore
of the bay, during the time that the tide was rising ; and Lieut. Beechey
observed, that, in running along shore, in a south-easterly direction, the
ship seemed to go much faster by the land than she sailed through the water.
It is more than probable, therefore, that the flood comes from the north-
westward on this particular part of the coast. Near the spot on which we
made the observations, a bottle was buried containing an account of our visit,
and a pile of stones and earth raised over it.

In approaching Possession Bay, the colour of the water was observed to
change to a light green, at the distance of two or two and a half miles from the
shore, but there was no other appearance of shoal water, and we could find no
bottom with sixty and seventy fathoms of line, well within it ; we had four-
teen fathoms, on a sandy bottom, at a cable’s length from the beach.

Having finished our observations, we returned on board, and made all sail
for the Sound ; but the wind blowing still from the westward, the progress of
the ships was but slow in that direction. The sea Avas perfectly free from
ice, except a single berg, and one or two narrow though heavy streams,
which offered, however, little or no obstruction to the navigation.

Annexed is an abstract of the Meteorological Journal for the month of
July.

E 2

1819.

July.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla, at Sea,

during the Month of July, 1819.

Temperature of Air

Sea Water at the

Rarometer.

in shade.

surface.

Prevailing Winds.

Day

Prevailing Weather.

Tempera-
ture when
weighed.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Tempe-

rature.

Specific

Gravity.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

-h

+

-h

O

inches.

inches.

inches.

1

39

34

36.33

33.2

1.0260

53

29.83

29.78

29.800

W.S.W.

Moderate breezes and fine.

2

37.5

35.5

36.25

33.3

1.0260

53

29.78

29.70

29.753

S.W.

Ditto.

3

35

30

33.33

31.5

1.0260

53

29.61

29.10

29.302

S.E.

Moderate and cloudy. Snow and rain

54

at times.

4

33

30.5

31.58

30

1.0261

29.12

29.35

29.387

Calm

Occasional light airs from the northward.

5

33

29

30.83

30.8

1.0260

54

29.48

29.35

29.403

West

Foggy weather.

Light breezes and hazy.

6

38

31

34.42

33.1

1.0253

57

29.54

29.42

29.505

S.W.

Light breezes and fine.

7

46

34

39.83

35.8

1.0257

57

29.59

29.51

29.550

f A. M. S.S.E.

1 P. M. Calm

Light airs and fine.

Fine weather.

8

40

34

37.75

37.2

1.0260

57

29.68

29.60

29.629

North

Light airs and cloudy.

9

34

30

32.25

32.7

1.0254

54

29.74

29.69

29.721

N.N.E.

Light airs and cloudy, with snow.

10

32

28

30.00

31.5

1.0252

53.5

29.80

29.75

29.787

N.N.W.

Light breezes and foggy.

11

32

26

29.50

30.8

1.0256

54

29.77

29.73

29.761

N.W.

Ditto.

12

33.5

28

80.50

32.1

1.0252

54

29.66

29.63

29.637

N.N.W.

Moderate breezes and foggy.

13

32

31

31.67

33.2

1.0256

55

29.90

29.72

29.829

C A. M. N.N.W. ?

1 P. M. Westerly 3

Light breezes and foggy.

14

36.5

28.5

32.83

34.2

1.0256

55

29,90

29.84

29.878

S.S.E.

Ditto.

15

31

28

29.83

32.5

1.0250

58.5

29.91

29.81

29.875

N.bW.

Light breezes and hazy.

16

36

27

33.00

34.2

1.0255

59

29.90

29.76

29.852

S.S.E.

Light breezes and cloudy.

17

34

31

33.50

32.8

1.0247

58

29.84

29.71

29.783

West

Light breezes and foggy, with rain.

18

33

30.5

32.00

32.1

1.0247

56

29.90

29.79

29.827

C A.M. S.W. >

1 P.M. N.N.E. 5

Light breezes and foggy, with snow.

19

34

29

31.00

33

1.0247

56

29.93

29.90

29.912

1 North

Light breezes and foggy, with small snow.

20

30

27

28.50

32.2

1.0250

56

29.84

,29.70

29.791

N.N.W.

Light breezes and foggy.

21

42

27

37.67

33.8

1.0243

58

29.63

29.56

29.588

i From north round )
i by east to S.E. bE. >

Light airs ; occasional calms.

22

45

34

39.75

33

1.0183

58

29.62

29.58

29.605

East

Light airs and fine clear weather.

23

36

29

31.50

31.4

1.0252

55

29.70

29.62

29.665

N.W.bW.

Light breezes and foggy.

24

37

31

33.75

31.4

. . .

29.83

29.60

29.759

N.N.W,

Light airs and foggy.

25

40

32

35.42

31.3

. . .

29.89

29.84

29.870

Westerly

Light breezes and fine clear weather.

26

35

28

32.33

31.9

1.0185

59

29.85

29.82

29.838

S.bE.

Light breezes and foggy weather.

27

35

33

33.75

32.0

. . .

....

29.90

29.74

29.842

S.E.bE.

Moderate breezes and hazy weather.

28

33

33

33.00

31.7

1.0240

59

29.71

29.53

29.615

S.E.bS.

Fresh breezes and hazy, with continued

heavy rain.

29

37

33

34.25

33.1

1.0242

59

29.52

29.49

29.507

East

Fresh breezes and foggy, with rain at

times.

30

38

33

36.25

34.8

] .0255

53

29.54

29.51

29.525

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and fine.

31

43

35

37.08

32.6

1.0250

55

29.51

29.50

29.505

N.W.bW.

Ditto.

46

26

33.54

32.68

29.93

29.10

29.687 :

h’Mi /tv/n \(ir>v/iiyitVt

ITiL- TsliUhi tnnds
about N.WS: SJl.

r of the

IS C^VtJttIES,'kl^t>UTE or ^
^ Hi:CLA«//^/ Gkipkk^^ ^ .

^ in .vf'fi/vhofa ,' — ^

^ K T I i ]PAS SAC E

TItr Icitcrj' uatr iJte .tftuuJi/ttf.-- r. i/ivio/n,- ;
n)^. .‘•/n’lle. s\-j-ttw.r. vr\a’r<j/ ■ T/m horiioniu/
pf.f/'/rn cr'cAf Ire t-n Utr /tr/O-uoT h- Utr urj/w
O'/ifv •’- Out/ o/t //if rv/ji/7t .

JJenotfs t/itr tTUc/: o/^ t/if jr/tips m t/om^ out .
'- in rYturni/ii}

A momuiient was crrrr/ni c
J'/JS/uis.Thf titidcness o/'l/ic.
o/F the pouti at • whji./t'F^u

PfSe/d

.iriowU f

.tfess. Soju/raury

i/rvimi

srunvi/

ZcveC plain.

ArARTl'>^

j<

. .;.i. '•

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^ V<iJ’t‘t65fho E.
tDip S8 iS

kctuxd hill

.yar?i-.

///tf/or t/tef'f>m/rifj/idofZwi/t.^fnow(kp/a/n JJiifT\ . '
in the Yeany
1^J1» rind iH20.

nnd r//’(7nn uju/er hr./ iinniedir/te i/i.v/>eftinn f>v do/i/i Jjit.dinnn J/id/’./t.

'•i^t'Ecln’ardj'

CFirc/ieu

fKanoon
ijiiiuis orSEj/umMoa:
ITte Joil lichS:.

Liddon’s

Bridport
• Inlet '

L'Jioppf^

Ittjoi nor Icc

U'etil/lKT

rar/TilSfei^:-.,

Table

Winter

\F.‘ WafeJut/n

■Jpenarr

'•w^ihur

i^rownl.

tiit/Tril I.

ISeechru [.

V/AJ ui-’'

('Jictifrirf
IJ I <pcs SMi'nitm ml ^

CJiilr^

/iO/p'
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e Luni

C R O K K K S
B A.Y

Hr ^

-*^laxw'ell-

■A'Ak'o-

ikivu IslttMl/

'.JU'santrnti

C . JWirrrjuier

'rittsa.i-frrlf Soiitiri

I'^um/ IjLuuI

■/posed JireaA-rr. <

’'.EmneU.

Gamier

Bav

.CWaika-

Prince Leopold

Isles

The cti/Fs or' the
Islands are (put
perpendiaiJar

Jfoon 3if

iiJoon. j‘.'Au<
i8iq.

Three capes

Ad^nitraltv

IXLE T

Manu larae hhir/r W/udes. Seals. S:
Sant hois, trerr^scen in //u.rJnliU a i
pasiiae/arlif fiheut the cntrancc/T '

distimruished

about this part

'.I'ma/c/in

'^i'eaJeed hill

’adei/ or ha^

Yjdlieu S: dayine
^1‘lace ‘(S' Obs f

A hoUJe nae hufieti on a /ull. up*

J'osses/

.Walter -

- SarA-scn.fi/iIct

,Porv Bowen
%.Var.''iLfIi-iy.

ll'e.tr r.onijihtdi' fro/

I'aUn/ <rr ba/t

rop l.Kt

• I'/rcel I.o-nlo

la/lcp or bai/

*TLu ifp'S hit/

J.Wa//<i

, Ttace (S' Ohs'.

/){/> air:?e'

■Jar” nP.x) H’.

.\'i.ociTrat es'rhe Va/lrvs on
this coast rese/nbte bau-i
at a Fen- miles distance.

.Jpp./iarhtt

fu-s/rra/d ^-/pp.If*
7 Hat/ S

rVi/V,

t

i

' *'• \ 'V^'. ' ;

r-iVsi'^vi,/r.\V'*

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;a:,v39®’' u-Msm

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' ■ ' V V>-' "■ . . , J.J;

;• ■C'.iiMsiiifi' i'i; ih,'!!!- 1

29

CHAPTER II.

ENTRANCE INTO SIR JAMES LANCASTER’S SOUND OF BAFFIN — UNINTER-
RUPTED PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD — DISCOVERY AND EXAMINATION

OF PRINCE regent’s INLET PROGRESS TO THE SOUTHWARD STOPPED

BY ICE — RETURN TO THE NORTHWARD — PASS BARROw’s STRAIT, AND
ENTER THE POLAR SEA.

We were now about to enter and to explore that great sound or inlet which
has obtained a degree of celebrity beyond what it might otherwise have been
considered to possess, from the very opposite opinions which have been held
with regard to it. To us it was peculiarly interesting, as being the point to
which our instructions more particularly directed our attention ; and, I may
add, what I believe we all felt, it was that point of the voyage which was to
determine the success or failure of the expedition, according as one or other
of the opposite opinions alluded to should be corroborated. It will readily
be conceived, then, how great our anxiety was for a change of the westerly
wind and swell, which, on the 1st of August, set down Sir James Lancaster’s
Sound, and prevented our making much progress. We experienced also
another source of anxiety. The relative sailing qualities of the two ships were
found to have altered so much, that we were obliged to keep the Hecla under
easy sail the whole day, to allow the Griper to keep up with us, although the
latter had hitherto kept way with her consort, when sailing by the wind. The
ships stretched to the northward across the entrance of the sound, meeting oc-
casionally with some loose and heavy streams of ice, and were at noon in lati-
tude, by observation, 73° 55' 18", and in longitude, by the chronometers,
77° 40'. Several whales were seen in the course of the day, and Mr. Allison
remarked, that this was the only part of Baffin’s Bay in which he had ever seen
young whales ; for it is a matter of surprise to the whalers in general, that they

1819.

August.

Sun, 1.

30

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. seldom or never meet with young ones on this fishery, as they are accustomed
to do in the seas of Spitzbergen,

The Griper continued to detain us so much that I determined on making
the best of our way to the westward, that no more time than was necessary
might be occupied in the examination of the bottom of Sir James Lancaster’s
Sound, provided it should be found to be an inlet surrounded by land. I
was the more inclined to do this, from the circumstance of the sea being so
clear of ice, as to offer no impediment to the navigation, which rendered it
next to impossible that the two ships should not meet each other again ; and
it seemed to me to be of considerable importance to obtain as early informa-
tion as possible whether a passage did or did not exist there, as, in the latter
event, we should have to proceed still further to the northward in search of
one through some of the other Sounds of Baffin ; besides, the farther north we
had to go, the shorter would the navigable season be to allow us to explore
these sounds. On these considerations I ordered the Hecla to be hove to in
the evening, and sent Lieutenant Liddon an instruction, with some signals,
which might facilitate our meeting in case of fog : and I appointed as a place of
rendezvous the meridian of 85° west, and as near the middle of the Sound as
circumstances would permit. As soon, therefore, as the boat returned from
the Griper, we carried a press of sail, and, in the course of the evening, saw
the northern shore of the Sound looming through the clouds which hung
over it.

Mon. 2. It fell calm on the morning of the 2d, and at nine A.M., we sounded with
the deep-sea clamms, and found one thousand and fifty fathoms by the line,
on a bottom of mud and small stones ; but I believe the depth of water did
not exceed eight or nine hundred fathoms, the ship’s drift being considerable
on account of the swell. It should be remarked, also, that where the sound-
ings exceed five or six hundred fathoms, even in very calm weather, the.
actual depth must, in the usual way of obtaining it, be a matter of some
uncertainty, for the weight of the line causes it to run out with a velocity
not perceptibly diminished, long after the lead or the clamms have struck
the ground. The clamms being now down, we were about to try the set
of the current, by mooring a boat to the line, when the breeze again sprung
up from the westward and prevented it. At noon we were in latitude
by observation 74° 30' 03"., and in longitude 78° 01'., Cape Osborn bear-
ing N, 79° W., distant forty-one miles.

The weather being clear in the evening, we had the first distinct view of

W! JSeec/i^ del.

.A^. /o ° '/A.

T, CUtrk Sculp.

'a/?n

.A //"A.

Zondori,Pu.bLtAhe(i by I.Mur7'a.y, 1S2Z .

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

31

both sides of the Sound, and the difference in the character of the two shores 1819.
was very apparent, that on the south consisting of high and peaked moun-
tains, completely snow-clad, except on the lower parts, while the northern
coast has generally a smoother outline, and had comparatively with the
other, little snow upon it ; the difference in this last respect, appearing to
depend principally on the difference in their absolute height. The sea was
open before us, free from ice or land ; and the Hecla pitched so much from
the westerly swell in the course of the day, as to throw the water once or
twice into the stern windows, a circumstance which, together with other
appearances, we were willing to attribute to an open sea in the desired
direction. More than forty black whales were seen during the day.

We had alternately fresh breezes from the westward, and calms on the morn- Tues. 3.
ing of the 3d, when we had only gained eight or nine miles upon the Griper,
which we observed coming up the Sound before an easterly wind, with all
her studding sails set, while we had a fresh breeze from the westward. In
the forenoon we were between Capes Warrender and Osborn, and had a
good view of Sir George Hope’s Monument, which proved to be a dark-
looking and conspicuous hill on the main land, and not an island, as it
appeared to be when at a distance, on our former voyage.

A solitary iceberg being near us. Captain Sabine, Lieutenant Beechey,
and Mr. Hooper, were sent upon it to observe the variation of the needle and
the longitude, and to take angles for the survey, a base being measured by
Massey’s log between the ship and the berg. We here obtained soundings
in three hundred and seventy-three fathoms, the bottom consisting of mud
and small stones, of which a small quantity was brought up in the clamms. By
a boat moored to this instrument, a tide or current was found to set north
65° E., at the rate of seven-eighths of a mile per hour; the variation obseiwed
upon the iceberg was 106° 58' 05'' westerly. At noon, we were in latitude
74° 25' 31", long. 80° 04' 30".

Being favoured at length by the easterly breeze which was bringing up the
Griper, and for which we had long been looking with much impatience, a crowd
of sail was set to carry us with all rapidity to the westward. It is more easy
to imagine than to describe the almost breathless anxiety which was now visible
in every countenance, while, as the breeze increased to a fresh gale, we ran
quickly up the Sound. The mast-heads were crowded by the officers and men
during the whole afternoon ; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have
been unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the

32

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

August.

eagerness with which the various reports from the crow’s-nest were received,
all, however, hitherto favourable to our most sanguine hopes.

Between four and six P.M,, we passed several riplings on the water, as if
occasioned by a weather tide, but no bottom could be found with the hand-
leads. Being now abreast of Cape Castlereagh, more distant land was seen to
open out to the westward of it, and between the cape and this land was per-
ceived an inlet, to which I have given the name of the Navy Board’s Inlet.
We saw points of land apparently all round this inlet, but being at a very
great distance from it we were unable to determine whether it was continuous
or not. But as the land on the western side appeared so much lower and
snloother than that on the opposite side near Cape Castlereagh, and came down
so near the horizon, about the centre of the inlet, the general impression was,
that it is not continuous in that part. As our business lay to the westward,
however, and not to the south, the whole of this extensive inlet was, in a few
hours lost in distance.

In the mean time the land had opened out, on the opposite shore, to the
northward and westward of Cape Warrender, consisting of high mountains,
and in some parts of table land. Several head-lands were here distinctly
made out, of which the northernmost and most conspicuous, was named
after Captain Nicholas Lechmere Pateshall, of the Royal Navy. The
extensive bay into which Cape Pateshall extends, and which, at the
distance we passed it, appeared to be broken, or detached in many parts,
was named Choker’s Bay, in honour of Mr. Croker, Secretary of the Admi-
ralty ; I have called this large opening a bay, though the quickness with
which we sailed past it did not allow us to determine the absolute continuity
of land round the bottom of it; it is, therefore, by no means improbable, that
a passage may here be one day found from Sir James Lancaster’s Sound into
the Northern Sea. The Cape, which lies on the western side of Croker’s Bay,
was named after Sir Everard Home.

Our course was nearly due west, and the wind still continuing to freshen,
took us in a few hours nearly out of sight of the Griper. The only ice
which we met with consisted of a few large bergs very much washed by the
sea ; and, the weather being remarkably clear, so as to enable us to run with
perfect safety, we were, by midnight, in a great measure relieved from our
anxiety respecting the supposed continuity of land at the bottom of this
magnificent inlet, having reached the longitude of 83° 12' , where the two
shores are still above thirteen leagues apart, without the slightest appear-

Z. Clar/c sculp,

\

Z! Jf^MeecAey del.

Zi(P?v Z ^Za/i^ctM d/rtiiy; ^eoA^ln^ d^c?^' .

Zondoyt. Zulltshed ly Z, Murray , IiS21

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

33

ance of any land to the westward of us for four or five points of the compass. 1819.
The colour of the water having become rather lighter, we hove-to at this
time for the Griper, and obtained soundings in one hundred and fifty fathoms
on a muddy bottom. The wind increased so much as to make it necessary
to close-reef the sails, and to get the top-gallant yards down, and there was
a breaking sea from the eastward, A great number of whales were seen in
the course of this day’s run.

Having made the ship snug, so as to be in readiness to round to, should Wed. 4.
the land be seen a-head, and the Griper having come up within a few miles
of us, we again bore up at one A.M. At half-past three. Lieutenant Beechey,
who had relieved me on deck, discovered from the crow’s-nest, a reef of
rocks, in-shore of us to the northward, on which the sea was breaking.

These breakers appeared to lie directly off a cape, which we named after
Rear-Admiral Joseph Bullen, and which lies immediately to the eastward
of an inlet, that I named Brooking Cuming Inlet. As the sea had now
become high, and the water appeared discoloured at some distance without
the breakers, the Hecla was immediately rounded to, for the purpose of
sounding ; we could find no bottom with fifty fathoms of line, but the Griper
coming up shortly after, obtained soundings in seventy-five fathoms, on a
bottom of sand and mud. We here met with innumerable loose masses of
ice, upon which the sea was constantly breaking, in a manner so much
resembling the breakers on shoals, as to make it a matter of some little
uncertainty at the time, whether those of which I have spoken above, might
not also have been caused by ice. It is possible, therefore, that shoal water
may not be found to exist in this place ; but I thought it right to mark the
spot on the chart to warn future navigators when approaching this part of the
coast. That there is something out of the common way in this neighbour-
hood, appears, however, more than probable, from the soundings obtained
by the Griper, which are much less than we found them in any other part of
the Sound at the same distance from land.

At seven A.M., there being less sea, and no appearance of broken or dis-
coloured water, we again bore away to the westward, the Griper having
joined us about the meridian of 85°, which had been appointed as our place
of rendezvous. Since the preceding evening, a thick haze had been hanging
over the horizon to the southward, which prevented our seeing the land in
that direction, to the westward of 87°, while the whole of the northern shore,
though, as it afterwards proved, at a greater distance from us, was distinctly

F

34.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. visible. At noon, being in latitude 74° 15' 53'' N., longitude, by chrono-
meters, 86° 30' 30", we were near two inlets, of which the easternmost was
named Burnet Inlet, and the other Stratton Inlet. The land between
these two had very much the appearance of an island. We rounded to, for
the purpose of sounding, as well as to wait for our consort, and found no
bottom with one-hundred and seventy fathoms of line, the water being of a
dirty light-green colour. The cliffs on this part of the coast present a sin-
Wed. 4. gular appearance, being stratified horizontally, and having a number of
regular projecting masses of rock, broad at the bottom, and coming to a
point at the top, resembling so many buttresses, raised by art at equal in-
tervals. This very remarkable constructure, which continues with little varia-
tion along the whole of this northern shore, will be best understood by the
accompanying yiews by Lieutenant Beechey, which, from the accuracy with
which the coast is delineated, will, I doubt not, be considered equally
valuable by the geologist and the seaman.

After lying-to for an hour, we again bore up to the westward, and soon
after discovered a cape, afterwards named by Captain Sabine, Cape Fellfoot,
which appeared to form the termination of this coast; and as the haze,
which still prevailed to the south, prevented our seeing any land in that
quarter, and the sea was literally as free from ice as any part of the Atlantic,
we began to flatter ourselves that we had fairly entered the Polar sea, and
some of the most sanguine among us had even calculated the bearing and
distance of Icy Cape, as a matter of no very difficult or improbable accom-
plishment. This pleasing prospect was rendered the more flattering by the
sea having, as we thought, regained the usual oceanic colour, and by a long
swell which was rolling in from the southward and eastward. At six P.M.,
however, land was reported to be seen a-head. The vexation and anxiety
produced on every countenance by such a report, was but too visible, until,
on a nearer approach, it was found to be only an island, of no very large
extent, and that, on each side of it, the horizon still appeared clear for
several points of the compass. More land was also discovered beyond Cape
Fellfoot, immediately to the westward of which lies a deep and broad bay,
which I named after my friend, Mr. Maxwell, to whose kindness and unre-
mitting attention, I am more indebted than it might be proper here to express.
At eight P.M., we cume to some ice of no great breadth or thickness, ex-
tending several miles in a direction nearly parallel to our course ; and as
we could see clear water over it to the southward, I was for some time in the

I'v J^y/in JJar/iiv. /,c'fuLm^\/an'/i d.iOzi.

(%z^^^9tcca/^?^ c^^yVor-C^^^i^ Gztz^ /^o/yurzoy c:^^rzzi/- Id

< JW^^t»BS2.«ehii>!Bai^ .

^ fV, £uck^ del ,

(^zzyzzzModdTt, c^dAd Addu^r 0^ l^aAAdzdd cAAddi/- ^d iiAd ^uyumAdl ejA (^te AyA/^Arrtr,

Xondcn, TctbCCs7%ed, iry I, Murray , J<f2J .

Z, CLztT: Sculp,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

35

hope, that it would prove a detached stream, from which no obstruction to 1819.
our progress westerly was to be apprehended. At twenty minutes past
ten, however, the weather having become hazy, and the wind light, we
perceived that the ice, along which we had been sailing for the last two
hours, was joined, at the distance of half a mile to the westward of
us, to a compact and impenetrable body of floes, which lay across the
whole breadth of the strait, formed by the island, and the western point
of Maxwell Bay. We hauled our wind to the northward, just in time to
avcM being embayed in the ice, on the outer edge of which a considerable
surf, the effect of the late gale, was then rolling. A second island was dis-
covered to the southward of the former, to both of which I gave the name
of Prince Leopold’s Isles, in honour of his Royal Highness Prince Leopold
OP Saxe Coburg. Immediately to the eastward of these islands, there was
a strong water-sky, indicating a considerable extent of open sea, but a
bright ice-blink to the westward afforded little hope, for the present, of
finding a passage in the desired direction. We saw to-day, for the first
time, a number of white whales ; (Delphinus Albicans ;) guillemots, fulmar
petrels, and kittiwakes, were also numerous near the ice.

The easterly wind died away on the morning of the 5th, and was sue- Thur. 5.
ceeded by light and variable airs, with thick, snowy weather. At noon we
were in lat. 74° 19' 38", long. 89° 18' 40", the soundings being one hundred
and thirty-five fathoms, on a muddy bottom. At half-past ten we tried
whether there were any current, and if so, in what direction it might be
setting, by mooring a boat to the bottom, with the deep-sea clamms ; but
none could be detected. An hour before, the same experiment had been
tried on board the Griper, when Lieutenant Liddon found the current to
be setting east, at the rate of nine miles per day. While the calm and thick
weather lasted, a number of the officers and men amused themselves in
the boats, in endeavouring to kill some of the white whales which were
swimming about the ships in great numbers ; but the animals were so
wary, that they would scarcely suffer the boats to approach them within
thirty or forty yards without diving. Mr, Fisher described them to be
generally from eighteen to twenty feet in length ; and he stated, that he
had several times heard them emit a shrill, ringing sound, not unlike that of
musical glasses when badly played. This sound, he further observed, was
most distinctly heard, when they happened to swim directly beneath the
boat, even when they were several feet under water, and ceased altogether

36

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

August.

Frid. 6.

on their coming to the surface. We saw also, for the first time, one or two
shoals of narwhals, (Monodon Monoceros), called by the sailors, sea-unicorns,

A steady breeze springing up from the W.N.W. in the afternoon, the ships
stood to the northward, till we had distinctly made out, that no passage to
the westward could at present be found between the ice and the land.
The weather having become clear about this time, we perceived that there
was a large open space to the southward, where no land was visible ;
and for this opening, over which there was a dark water-sky, our course was
now directed. It fell calm again, however, in a few hours, so that at noon,
on the 6th, we were still abreast of Prince Leopold’s Islands, which were so
surrounded by ice, that we could not approach them nearer than four or five
miles. The appearance of these islands is not less remarkable than that of
the northern shore of the strait, being also stratified horizontally, but having
none of those buttress-like projections before described. The different strata
fonn so many shelves, as it were, on which the snow lodges ; so that, imme-
diately after a fall of snow, the islands appear to be striped with white and
brown alternately. The northernmost island, when seen from the E.N.E.,
appears like a level piece of table-land, being quite perpendicular at each
extreme.

The Griper having unfortunately sprung both her topmasts, Lieut. Liddon
took advantage of the calm weather to shift them. The Hecla’s boats were
at the same time employed in bringing on board ice, to be used as water ;
a measure to which it is occasionally necessary to resort in these regions,
when no pools or ponds are to be found upon the floes. In this case, berg-
ice, when at hand, is generally preferred ; ’ but that of floes, which is in fact
the ice of sea-water, is also abundantly used for this purpose : the only pre-
caution which it is necessary to observe, being that of allowing the salt water
to drain off before it is dissolved for use. One of our boats was upset by
the fall of a mass of ice which the men were breaking, but fortunately no
injury was sustained,

A breeze sprung up from the N.N.W. in the evening, and the Griper being
ready to make sail, we stood to the southward. The land, which now
became visible to the south-east, discovered to us, that we were entering
a large inlet, not less than ten leagues wide at its mouth, and in the centre
of which no land could be distinguished. The western shore of the inlet,
which extended as far as we could see to the S.S.W., was so encumbered
with ice, that there was no possibility of sailing near it. I, therefore, ran

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

37

along the edge of the ice, between which and the eastern shore, there was 1819.
a broad and open channel, with the intention of seeking, in a lower latitude,
a clearer passage to the westward than that which we had just been
obliged to abandon lying between Prince Leopold’s Isles, and Maxwell’s Bay.

The headland, which forms the western point of the entrance into this inlet,
was honoured by the name of Cape Clarence, after His Royal Highness
THE Duke of Clarence ; and another, to the south-eastward of this, was named
after Sir Robert Seppings, one of the Surveyors of His Majesty’s navy.

Since the time we first entered Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, the sluggish-
ness of the compasses, as well as the amount of their irregularity produced
by the attraction of the ship’s iron, had been found very rapidly, though
uniformly, to increase, as we proceeded to the westward ; so much, indeed,
that, for the last two days, we had been under the necessity of giving up
altogether the usual observations for determining the variation of the needle
on board the ships. This irregularity became more and more obvious as we
now advanced to the southward. The rough magnetic bearing of the sun
at noon, or at midnight, or when on the prime vertical, as compared
with its true azimuth, was sufficient to render this increasing inefficiency
of the compass quite apparent. For example, at noon this day, while we
were observing the meridian altitude, the bearing of the sun was two points
on the Hecla’s larboard bow, and consequently her true course was about
S.S.W. The binnacle and azimuth compasses at the same time agreed in
shewing N.N.W. ^ W., making the variation to be allowed on that course,
eleven points and-a-half westerly, corresponding nearly with an azimuth taken
on the following morning, which gave 137° 12' . It was evident, therefore,
that a very material change had taken place in the dip, or the variation, or
in both these phenomena, since we had last an opportunity of obtaining
observations upon them; which rendered it not improbable that we were
now making a very near approach to the magnetic pole. This supposition
was further strengthened on the morning of the 7th ; when, having de- Sat. 7.
creased our latitude to about 73°, we found that no alteration whatever in the
absolute course on which the Hecla was steering, produced a change of
more than three or four points in the direction indicated by the compass,
which continued uniformly from N.N.E. to N.N.W., according as the ship’s
head was placed on one side or the other of the magnetic meridian. We
now, therefore, witnessed, for the first time, the curious phenomenon of the
directive power of the needle becoming so weak as to be completely over-

38

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. come by the attraction of the ship ; so that the needle might now be properly
said to point to the north pole of the ship. It was only, however, in those
compasses in which the lightness of the cards, and great delicacy in the
suspension, had been particularly attended to, that even this degree of
uniformity prevailed ; for, in the heavier cards, the friction upon the points
of suspension was much too great to be overcome even by the ship’s at-
traction, and they consequently remained indifferently in any position in
which they happened to be placed. For the purposes of navigation, therefore,
the compasses were from this time no longer consulted ; and in a few days
afterwards, the binnacles were removed as useless lumber, from the deck to
the carpenter’s store-room, where they remained during the rest of the season,
the azimuth compass alone being kept on deck, for the purpose of watching
any changes which might take place in the directive power of the needle :
and the true courses and direction of the wind were in future noted in the
log-book, as obtained to the nearest quarter point, when the sun was visible,
by the azimuth of that object and the apparent time.

Being desirous of obtaining all the magnetic observations we were able, on a
spot which appeared to be replete with interest in this department of science,
and the outer margin of the ice consisting entirely of small loose pieces,
which were not sufficiently steady for using the dipping-needle, we hauled up
for the nearest part of the eastern shore, for the purpose of landing there with
the instruments. We got in with it about noon, having very regularly decreased
our soundings from forty to fifteen and a half fathoms ; in which depth, having
tacked, at the distance of two miles and a half from the shore, two boats were
despatched from each ship, under the command of Lieutenants Beechey and
Hoppner, who, together with Captain Sabine, were directed to make the ne-
cessary observations, and to collect whatever specimens of natural history the
place might afford. They landed on a beach of sand and stones, having passed,
at the distance of one mile from it, several large masses of ice aground in six to
eight fathoms’ water, which shoaled from thence gradually in to the shore. The
officers describe this spot as more barren and dreary than any on which they
had yet landed in the arctic regions ; there being scarcely any appearance of ve-
getation, except here and there a small tuft of stunted grass, and one or two
species of saxifrage and poppy, although the ground was so swampy in many
places that they could scarcely walk about. This part of the coast is rather
low, the highest hill near the landing-place being found, by geometrical mea-
surement, to be only three hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

39

sea ; and there was at this time very little snow remaining upon it. The fixed 1819.
rocks near the surface consist chiefly of lime-stone ; but quartz, granite and
hornblende occurred in detached lumps, most of which were incrusted with
a thin coat of lime. The bed of a small stream, which ran between two rocks
of lime-stone, was composed entirely of clay-slate. The temperature of this
stream of water was 42|°, that of the air, in the shade, being 51 1°, and of
the earth, two or three inches below the surface, 34|°. At a short distance from
the sea, Lieutenant Hoppner discovered a large mass of iron-stone, which was
found to attract the magnet very powerfully. There were no traces of inha-
bitants to be seen on this part of the coast. Part of the vertebrae of a whale
was found at some distance from the beach ; but this had probably been carried
there by bears, the tracks of whom were visible on the moist soil. The only
birds seen were a few ptarmigans (Tetrao Lagopus ) and snow buntings.

The latitude of the place of observation was 72° 45' 15", and its longitude, by
the chronometers, 89° 41' 22". The dip of the needle was 88° 26' 42", and the vari-
ation 118° 23' 37" westerly. The directive power of the horizontal needle, undis-
turbed as it was by the attraction of the ship, was, even here, found to be so weak,
in Captain Kater’s azimuth-compasses, which were the most sensible, that they
required constant tapping with the hand to make them traverse at all. At half
past one, when the boats landed, Lieut. Beechey found the tide ebbing, and
it appeared, by the marks on the beach, to have fallen about eighteen inches.

At fifty minutes past four, when they left the shore, it had fallen six feet and
a half more, by which we considered the time of high water on that day to be
about half past twelve, and about twenty minutes past eleven on the full and
change days of the moon. The whole rise of tide, being nearly the highest
of the springs, appears to have been ten feet, and the ebb was found to set
strong to the southward in-shore. A boat being moored to the bottom, at
three miles’ distance from the land, at five P.M. not the smallest current was
perceptible. From these and several subsequent observations, there is good
reason to suppose that the flood-tide comes from the south in this inlet. Be-
fore the boats left the shore, a staff was erected on a hill near the landing-
place, having a board nailed to it, on which the names of the ships and the
date were painted ; and at three yards, in the direction of the magnetic north
from the staff, which may be distinguished with a glass at three miles’ distance
from the land, a bottle was buried, with a paper, containing an account of the
time, and the object of our visit to this spot.

As soon as the boats returned on board, we bore up to the southward, run-

40

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. ning close along the edge of the ice, which led us nearer and nearer to the
eastern shore, so that by midnight the channel in which we were sailing was
narrowed to about five miles. The colour of the water had changed to a very
light green at that distance from the shore ; but we could find no bottom with
fifty fathoms of line, and had thirty-five fathoms while rounding a point
of ice at three miles’ distance from the beach. The weather was beautifully
serene and clear, and the sun, for the second time to us this season, just
dipped below the northern horizon, and then re-appeared in a few minutes.

Siind. 8. A dark sky to the south-west had given us hopes of finding a westerly
passage to the south of the ice along which we were now sailing ; more espe-
cially as the inlet began to widen considerably as we advanced in that di-
rection ; but at three A.M., on the morning of the 8th, we perceived that the
ice ran close in with a point of land bearing S, b. E. from us, and which ap-
peared to form the southern extremity of the eastern shore. To this extreme
point I gave the name of Cape Kater, in compliment to Captain Henry Kater,
one of the Commissioners of the Board of Longitude, to whom science is greatly
indebted for his improvements of the pendulum, and the mariner’s compass.

With the increasing width of the inlet, we had flattered ourselves with in-
creasing hopes ; but we soon experienced the mortification of disappointment.
The prospect from the crow’s nest began to assume a very unpromising ap-
pearance, the whole of the western horizon, from north round to S. b. E.,
being completely covered with ice, consisting of heavy and extensive floes,
beyond which no indication of water was visible ; instead of which there was
a bright and dazzling ice-blink extending from shore to shore. The western
coast of the inlet, however, trended much more to the westward than before,
and no land was visible to the south-west, though the horizon was so clear in
that quarter, that, if any had existed of moderate height, it might have been
easily seen at this time, at the distance of ten or twelve leagues. From these
circumstances, the impression received at the time was, that the land, both on
the eastern and western side of this inlet, would be one day found to consist
of islands. As a fresh northerly breeze was drifting the ice rapidly towards
Cape Kater, and there appeared to be no passage open between it and that
cape, I did not consider it prudent, under present circumstances, to run the
ships down to the point, or to attempt to force a passage through the ice, and
therefore hauled to the wind with the intention of examining a bay which was
abreast of us, and to which I gave the name of Fitzgerald Bay, out of respect
for Captain Robert Lewis Fitzgerald, of the royal navy.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

41

A boat from each ship was prepared to conduct this examination, and we
stood in to drop them in-shore, but found, as we approached, that the bay was
so filled with ice, as to render it impracticable for any boat to land. I there-
fore determined, as the season was fast advancing to a close, to lose no time
in returning to the northward, in the hope of finding the channel between
Prince Leopold’s Isles and Maxwell Bay more clear of ice than when we left
it, in which case there could be little doubt of our effecting a passage to the
westward ; whereas, in our present situation, there appeared no prospect of
our doing so without risking the loss of more time than I deemed it prudent
to spare.

I have before observed that the east and west lands which form this grand
inlet are probably islands : and, on an inspection of the charts, I think it will
also appear highly probable that a communication will one day be found to
exist between this inlet and Hudson’s Bay, either through the broad and unex-
plored channel, called Sir Thomas Rowe’s Welcome, or through Repulse Bay,
which has not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also probable, that a
channel will be found to exist between the western land and the northern coast
of America ; in which case the flood-tide which came from the southward may
have proceeded round the southern point of the west land out of the Polar sea,
part of it setting up the inlet, and part down the Welcome, according to the
unanimous testimony of all the old navigators, who have advanced up the
latter channel considerably to the northward.

The distance which we sailed to the southward in this inlet was about
one hundred and twenty miles, Cape Kater being, by our observations, in
lat. 71° 53' 30", long. 90° 03' 45'; and I saw no reason to doubt the practi-
cability of ships penetrating much farther to the south, by watching the
occasional openings in the ice, if the determining the geography of this part
of the arctic regions be considered worth the time which must necessarily be
occupied in effecting it. The ice which we met with in the southern part
of this inlet was much less broken into pieces than that to the northward ;
and the floes, some of which not less than nine or ten feet thick,
were covered with innumerable little round “ hummocks,” as they are
called by the Greenland seamen, which are perhaps first formed by the
drift of the snow in particular situations, and which by alternate thawing and
freezing, become as solid and transparent as any other part of the ice.
This peculiarity I never remember to have remarked on the floes in Baffin’s
Bay, on which a carriage might travel without much inconvenience, except

G

42

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. that which arises from the numerous pools of water found upon them in
the latter part of the summer.

From latitude 73° to the farthest progress made to the southward, we
found the soundings remarkably regular in approaching the eastern shore.
The colour of the water was always observed to change to a beautiful light
green before we could obtain soundings with a line of forty fathoms, which
occur generally at the distance of four or five miles from the land ; after which
the depth decreases so gradually that the lead appears to be a safe guide.
The bottom is principally mud, into which the lead sinks deep ; but there is
also some hard ground, and a few pieces of limestone were occasionally
brought up by the lead.

The directive power of the magnet seemed to be weaker here than
ever ; for the north pole of the needle in Captain Kater’s steering compass,
in which the friction is almost entirely removed by a thread suspension,
was observed to point steadily towards the ship’s head, in whatsoever
direction the latter was placed. It is probable, therefore, that the magnetic
dip would have been found somewhat greater here than at our place of
observation on the 7th ; and it was a matter of regret to me that the primary
object of the expedition would not allow of another day’s detention for the
purpose of repeating the magnetic observations on this spot.

Mond. 9. As we returned to the northward with a light but favourable breeze, we
found that the ice had approached the eastern shore of the inlet, leaving a
much narrower channel than that by which we had entered ; and in some
places it stretched completely across to the land on this side, while the
opposite coast was still as inaccessible as before.

On the evening of the 9th, a circular prismatic halo was seen round the
sun, with a bright parhelion on each side at the same altitude with the sun.
The radius of the circle was 23° 06'. Several black whales, and multitudes
of white ones, were seen in the course of the day, also several narwhals
and seals, and one bear. There was an iceberg in sight.

Tues. 10. On the 10th, the weather was very thick with snow, which was afterwards
succeeded by rain and fog. The compasses being useless, and the sun
obscured, we had no means of knowing the direction in which we were
going, except that we knew the wind had been to the southward before the
fog came on, and had found by experience that it always blew directly up
or down the inlet, which enabled us to form a tolerably correct judgment
of our course. We continued to stand off-and-on near the ice, till the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

43

evening, when, the fog having cleared away, we bore 'up to the northward, 1819.
keeping as near the western shore as the ice would permit ; but at eleven
P.M. we were stopped in our progress by the ice extending to the land
on the eastern side of the inlet, which obliged us to haul our wind. This
part of the coast is much higher than that farther to the southward, and the
soundings near it are also considerably deeper.

On the 11th, the weather was so thick with fog and rain, that it was Wed. ll.
impossible to ascertain in what direction we were going, which obliged me
to make the ships fast to a floe till the weather should clear up. There
being abundance of the purest water in pools upon the floe, our supply of
this necessary article was completed on board each ship, and, in the mean
time. Captain Sabine took the opportunity of repeating his observations
upon the dip of the magnetic needle, the result of which, being 88° 25' 17",
served to confirm those made on shore on the 7th. The repetition of such
observations, which require considerable care and delicacy, is always satis-
factory ; but was particularly so on this occasion from the circumstance
already mentioned of having found at some distance from the place of
observation on the 7th, a mass of magnetic iron stone, from which, or from
other similar substances, it was possible that the needle might have suffered
some disturbance. Captain Sabine also made some observations here on
the intensity of the magnetic force, which will be found in the Appendix.

In the evening, the boats succeeded in harpooning a narwhal, to the great
delight of our Greenland sailors, who take so much pleasure in the sport to
which they have been accustomed, that they could with difficulty be
restrained at times from striking a whale, though such a frolic would
almost inevitably have been attended with the loss of one or more of our
lines. A few kittiwakes and arctic gulls were flying about the ice.

A breeze sprung up from the northward on the morning of the 12th, butThur. 12.
the weather was so foggy for some hours that we did not know in what
direction it was blowing. As soon as the fog cleared away, so as to enable
us to see a mile or two around us, we found that the floe to which we had
anchored was drifting fast down upon another body of ice to leeward,
threatening to enclose the ships between them. We, therefore, cast off, and
made sail, in order to beat to the northward, which we found great difficulty
in doing, oAving to the quantity of loose ice Avith Avhich this part of the inlet
Avas now covered. A remarkably thick fog obscured the eastern land from
our view this evening at the distance of five or six miles, Avhile the western

44

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. coast was distinctly visible at ■four, times that distance. We remarked, in
standing off and on, near the main body of the ice, that the clear atmosphere
commenced at a short distance from its margin ; so that we were enabled to
obtain a few lunar observations near the edge of the ice, while, at the distance
of a mile to the eastward of it, the sun was altogether obscured by fog.

This being the anniversary of the birth-day of His Royal Highness the
Prince Regent, it naturally suggested to us the propriety of honouring the
large inlet, which we had been exploring, and in which we still were
sailing, with the name of Prince Regent’s Inlet.

Frid. 13. The weather was beautifully calm and clear on the 13th, when, being
near an opening in the eastern shore, I took the opportunity of examining
it in a boat. It proved to be a bay, a mile wide at its entrance, and three
miles deep in an E.b.S. direction, having a small but snug cove on the north
side, formed by an island, between which and the main land is a bar of
rocks, which completely shelters the cove from sea or drift ice. We found
the water so deep, that in rowing close along the shore we could seldom
get bottom with seven fathoms of line ; and, as time could not be spared to
obtain the exact depth, the soundings in the annexed Plan are necessarily
very imperfect. The cliffs on the south side of this bay, to which I gave
the name of Port Bowen, after Captain James Bowen, one of the Commis-
sioners of His Majesty’s navy, resemble, in many places, ruined towers and
battlements ; and fragments of the rocks were constantly falling from above.
At the head of the bay is an extensive piece of low flat ground, intersected
by numerous rivulets, which, uniting at a short distance from the beach,
formed a deep and rapid stream, near the mouth of which we landed.
This spot was, I think, the most barren I ever saw, the ground being
almost entirely covered with small pieces of slaty limestone, among which
no vegetation appeared for more than a mile, to which distance Mr. Ross
and myself walked inland, following the banks of the stream. Among
the fragments, we picked up one piece of limestone, on which was the
impression of a fossil-shell. We saw here a great number of young black
guillemots, (Colymhus Grylle,) and a flock of ducks, which we supposed to
be of the eider species.

The latitude observed at the mouth of the stream was 73° 12' 11", and
the longitude, by chronometers, 89° 02' 08". The variation of the needle,
observed in the morning, at three or four miles’ distance from the land, was
114° 16' 43" westerly. From twenty minutes past eleven till a quarter after

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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE;

45

twelve, the tide rose by the shore six inches, and the high-watermark was, 1819,
between two and three feet above this: but we were not long enough on
shore to form a correct judgment of the time at which high water takes place.

About three-quarters of a mile to the southward of Port Bowen is another small
bay, which we had not time to examine.

Soon after I returned on board, a light breeze from the southward enabled
us to steer towards Prince Leopold’s Islands, which, however, we found to
be more encumbered with ice than before, as we could not approach them so
near as at first by three or four miles. The narwhals were here very numerous ;
these animals appear fond of remaining with their backs exposed above the
surface of the water, in the same manner as the whale, but for a much longer'
time, and we frequently also observed their horns erect, and quite stationary
for several minutes together. Three or four miles to the northward of Port
Bowen we discovered another opening, having every appearance of a
harbour, with an island near the entrance ; I named it after Captain Samuel
Jackson, of the Royal Navy.

The whole of the 14th was occupied in an unsuccessful attempt to find an Sat. 14.
opening in the ice to the westward, which remained perfectly close and
compact, with a bright ice-blink over it. Our latitude at noon was 73° 35' 30",
longitude 89° 01' 20", being in two hundred and ten fathoms of water, on
a muddy bottom. Some water, brought up in Doctor Marcet’s bottle from one
hundred and eighty-five fathoms, was at the temperature of 34°, that of the
surface being the same, and of the air 39°.

The ice continued in the same unfavourable state on the 15th; and being Sun. 15.
desirous of turning to some account this vexatious but unavoidable detention,

I left the ship in the afternoon, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr.
Hooper, in order to make some observations on shore, and directed Lieute-
nant Liddon to send a boat from the Griper for the same purpose. We
landed in one of the numerous valleys, or ravines, which occur on this part of
the coast, and which, at a few miles’ distance, very much resemble bays^
being bounded by high hills, which have the appearance of bluff headlands.

We found the water very deep close to the beach, which is composed of
rounded limestones, and on which there was no surf ; we then ascended, with
some difficulty, the hill on the south side of the ravine, which is very steep,
and covered with innumerable detached blocks of limestone, some of which
are constantly rolling down from above, and which afford a very insecure
footing. From the top of this hill, which is about six or seven hundred feet

46

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. above the level of the sea, and which commands an extensive view to the west-
ward, the prospect was by no means favourable to the immediate accomplish-
ment of our object. No water could be seen over the ice to the north-west, and
a bright and dazzling blink covered the whole space comprised between the
islands and the north shore. It was a satisfaction, however, to find that no
land appeared which was likely to impede our progress ; and we had been too
much accustomed to the obstruction occasioned by ice, and too well aware
of the suddenness with which that obstruction is often removed, to be at all
discouraged by present appearances.

On the top of this hill we deposited a bottle, containing a short notice of
our visit, and raised over it a small mound of stones ; of these we found no
want, for the surface was covered with small pieces of schistose limestone,
and nothing like soil or vegetation could be seen. We found a great quan-
tity of madreporite among the lime, and at the foot of the hill I met with one
large piece, of the basaltiform kind. Several pieces of flint were also picked
up on the beach. The insignificance of the stream which here emptied
itself into the sea, formed, as usual, a striking contrast with the size of the
bed through which it flowed, the latter being several hundred feet deep, and
two or three hundred yards wide.

The latitude of this place is 73° 33' 15 " N., and the longitude, by our chro-
nometers, 88° 18' 17"; the dip of the magnetic needle was 87° 35'. 95, and
its variation 115° 37' 12" westerly. The tide was found to rise three feet from
ten minutes past three till seven P.M. ; during the whole of which time the
stream, within one or two miles of the shore, was carrying the loose pieces of
ice to the southward, at the rate of about a mile and a half an hour. By
observing the ships, however, at five miles’ distance in the offing, I had reason
to believe that they were set in the contrary direction, and that the current,
observed by us in shore, was only an eddy, and not the true direction of
the flood-tide. The time of high water here, on full and change days of the
moon, will probably be about eleven o’clock. A very large black whale
was seen near the beach, and a great number of seals, though seldom more
than two of the latter together. We saw one, of the kind called by the
sailors, “ saddle-back,” (Phoca Groenlandica).

Mon. 16. The wind was light on the 16th, with cloudy weather, and occasional fogs,
and we scarcely altered our position, being hemmed in by ice or land in
almost every direction. At five P.M., it being quite calm, we had a good
opportunity of trying the set of the tide, which, by the preceding day’s

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

47

observations, we knew to be rising at this time by the shore. A small boat 1819.
was moored to the bottom, which consisted of soft mud, in one hundred and
ninety-one fathoms, by a deep-sea lead weighing one hundred and fifty
pounds, and a current was found to be setting to the N.N.W., at the rate of
a quarter of a mile an hour. This served to confirm the remark I had made
the preceding day respecting the drift of the ships in the offing ; and, unless
there be what seamen call a “ tide and half tide,” would appear to establish
the fact of the flood-tide coming from the southward in this part of Prince
Regent’s Inlet.

On the 17th, we had a fresh breeze, from the S.S.W., with so thick a fog, Tues. 17.
that in spite of the most unremitting attention to the sails and the steerage,
the ships were constantly receiving heavy shocks from the loose masses of
ice with which the sea was covered, and which, in the present state of the
weather, could not be distinguished at a sufficient distance to avoid them.

On the weather clearing up in the afternoon, we saw, for the first time, a
remarkable bluff headland, which forms the north-eastern point of the en-
trance into Prince Regent’s Inlet, and to which I gave the name of Cape
York, after His Royal Highness the Duke of York. A little to the east-
ward of Cape Pellfoot, we observed six remarkable stripes of snow, near
the top of the cliff, being very conspicuous at a great distance, when viewed
from the southward. These stripes, which are fonned by the drift of snow
between the buttress-like projections before described, and which remained
equally conspicuous on our return the following year, have probably at all
times much the same appearance, at least about this season of the year,
and may, on this account, perhaps, be deemed worthy of notice, as a
landmark.

At half-past ten A.M., on the 18th, it being quite calm, the small boat was Wed. 18.
moored to the bottom, in two hundred and ten fathoms, by which means the
current was ascertained to be setting W.S.W., at the rate of a mile and-a-half
an hour ; and, from our preceding observations on the time of the tides on
shore in this neighbourhood, it can scarcely be doubted that this was the
ebb-tide.

Mr. Crawford, the Greenland mate of the Hecla, being in quest of a
narwhal in one of the boats, could not resist the temptation of striking a fine
black whale, which rose close to him, and which soon ran out two lines of
one hundred and forty fathoms each, when, after towing the boat some dis-
tance, the harpoon fortunately drew, and thus saved our lines.

48

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. There being still no prospect of getting a single mile to the westward in
the neighbourhood of Prince Leopold’s Islands, and a breeze having
freshened up from the eastward in the afternoon, I determined to stand over
once more towards the northern shore, in order to try what could there be
done towards effecting our passage; and at nine P.M., after beating for
several hours among floes and streams of ice, we got into clear water
near that coast, where we found some swell from the eastward. There
was just light enough at midnight to enable us to read and write in the
cabin.

Thur. 19. The wind and sea increased on the 19th, with a heavy fall of snow, which,
together with the uselessness of the compasses, and the narrow space in
which we were working between the ice and the land, combined to make our
situation for several hours a very unpleasant one. At two P.M., the weather
being still so thick, that we could at times scarcely see the ship’s length
a-head, we suddenly found ourselves close under the land, and had not
much room to spare in wearing round. We stood off-and-on during the rest
of the day, measuring our distance by Massey’s patent log, an invaluable
machine on this and many other occasions ; and in the course of the
afternoon, found ourselves opposite to an inlet, which I named after my
relation, Sir Benjamin Hobhouse. The snow was succeeded by rain at
night ; after which the wind fell, and the weather became clear, so that, on

Frid. 20. the morning of the 20th, when we found ourselves off Stratton Inlet, we
were enabled to bear up along shore to the westward. The points of ice
led us occasionally within two miles of the land, which allowed us to
look into several small bays or inlets, with which this coast appears in-
dented, but which it would require more time than we could afford,
thoroughly to survey or examine. The remarkable structure of this land, which
I have before attempted to describe, is peculiarly striking about Cape Fellfoot,
where the horizontal strata very much resemble two parallel tiers of batteries,
placed at regular intervals from the top to the bottom of the cliff, affording
a grand and imposing appearance. There is a low point running off some
distance from Cape Fellfoot, which is not visible till approached within five
or six miles. We passed along this point at the distance of four miles,
finding no bottom with from fifty to sixty-five fathoms of line. Maxwell Bay
is a very noble one, having several islands in it, and a number of openings
on its northern shore, which we could not turn aside to explore. It was,
however, quite free from ice, and might easily have been examined, had it

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

49

been our object to do so, and time would have permitted. A remarkable
headland, on the western side, I named after Sir William Herschel.

At six P.M., when we had passed to the westward of Maxwell Bay, the
wind failed us, and the opportunity was immediately taken to try the
current, by mooring the small boat to the bottom in one hundred and fifty
fathoms. The tide was found to set W. $ N., at the rate of a quarter of a mile
per hour ; and at nine o’clock, when we tried it again in a similar manner,
there was still a slight stream perceptible, setting in the same direction.

The mud and small black stones, brought up from the bottom, consisted
entirely of limestone, effervescing strongly with an acid.

On the 21st we had nothing to impede our progress but the want of wind. Sat. 21.
the great opening, through which we had hitherto proceeded from Baffin’s Bay,
being now so perfectly clear of ice, that it was almost impossible to believe it to
be the same part of the sea, which, but a day or two before, had been completely
covered with floes to the utmost extent of our view. In the forenoon, being
off a headland, which was named after Captain Thomas Hurd, Hydrographer
to the Admiralty, we picked up a small piece of wood, which appeared to have
been the end of a boat’s yard, and which caused sundry amusing speculations
among our gentlemen ; some of whom had just come to the very natural
conclusion, that a ship had been here before us, and that, therefore, we were
not entitled to the honour of the first discovery of that part of the sea on
which we were now sailing ; when a stop was suddenly put to this and other
ingenious inductions by the information of one of the seamen, that he had drop-
ped it out of his boat a fortnight before, I could not get him to recollect exactly
the day on which it had been so dropped, but what he stated was suf-
ficient to convince me, that we were not at that time more than ten or twelve
leagues from our present situation; perhaps not half so much; and that,
therefore, here was no current setting constantly in any one direction. A
bay, to the northward and westward of Cape Hurd, was called Rigby
Bay.

At nine P.M., the wind being light from the northward, with hazy
weather, and some clouds, the electrometer chain was hoisted up to the
masthead ; but no sensible effect was produced, either upon the pith-balls or
the gold-leaf. A thick fog came on at night, which, together with the
lightness of the wind, and the caution necessary in navigating an unknown
sea under such circumstances, rendered our progress to the westward ex-
tremely slow, though we had fortunately no ice to obstruct us. The

H

50

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. narwhals were blowing about us in all directions, and two walruses with a
young one were seen upon a piece of ice.

Sund.22. The fog clearing up on the following day, we found ourselves abreast a bay,
to which the name of Radstock Bay was subsequently given by Lieut. Liddon’s
desire, in compliment to the Earl of Radstock. This bay is formed by a
point of land, on the eastern side, which I named Cape Eardley Wilmot ;
and on the western, by a bluff headland, which was called after Captain
Tristram Robert Ricketts, of the Royal Navy. In the centre of Radstock
bay, lies an insular-looking piece of land, which received the name of
Caswall’s Tower. We now also caught a glimpse of more land to the
southward ; but, owing to a thick haze which hung over the horizon in
that quarter, the continuity of land on a great part of that coast, to
the westward of Cape Clarence, remained, for the present, undetermined.
Immediately to the westward of us, we discovered more land, occupying
several points of the horizon, which renewed in us considerable appre-
hension, lest we should still find no passage open into the Polar sea. As we
advanced slowly to the westward, the land on which Cape Ricketts stands, ap-
peared to be nearly insular ; and, immediately to the westward of it, we disco-
vered a considerable opening, which we called Gascoyne’s Inlet, after General
Gascoyne, and which I should have been glad to examine in a boat, had time
permitted. In the afternoon, the weather became very clear and fine, the wind
being light from the westward. As this latter circumstance rendered our progress
very slow, the opportunity was taken to despatch the boats on shore, for the
purpose of making observations ; and at the same time, a boat from each ship,
under the respective command of Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, was sent
to examine a bay, at no great distance to the northward and westward
of us. The first party landed at the foot of a bluff headland, which forms the
eastern point of this bay, and which I named after my friend Mr. Richard Riley,
of the Admiralty. They had scarcely landed ten minutes, when a fresh breeze
unexpectedly sprung up from the eastward, and their signal of recall was
immediately made. They were only, therefore, enabled to obtain a part of
the intended observations, by which the latitude was found to be 74° 39' 51",
the longitude 91° 47' 36".8, and the variation of the magnetic needle
128° 58' 07" westerly. The cliffs on this part of the coast were observed to
consist almost entirely of secondary limestone, in which fossils were abun-
dantly found. There was little or no vegetation in those parts which our
gentlemen had an opportunity of examining during their short excursion ; but,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

51

as a quantity of the dung of rein-deer was brought on board, the interior of 1819.
the country cannot be altogether unproductive. One or two specimens of the
silvery gull, (Larus Argentatus), and of the Larus Glaucus, with the young of
the latter alive, were obtained by Captain Sabine ; and five black whales
were seen near the beach.

Lieutenant Beechey found that the land, which at this time formed the
western extreme, and which lies on the side of the bay, opposite to
Cape Riley, was an island ; to which I, therefore, gave the name of Beechey
Island, out of respect to Sir William Beechey. Immediately off Cape Riley
runs a low point, which had some appearance of shoal-water near it,
there being a strong ripple on the surface ; but Lieutenant Hoppner re-
ported, that he could find no bottom with thirty-nine fathoms, at the distance
of two hundred yards from it.

As soon as the boats returned, all sail was made to the westward, where
the prospect began to wear a more and more interesting appearance. We
soon perceived, as we proceeded, that the land, along which we were
sailing, and which, with the exception of some small inlets, had appeared
to be hitherto continuous from Baffin’s Bay, began now to trend much
to the northward, beyond Beechey island, leaving a large open space be-
tween that coast and the distant land to the westward, which now appeared
like an island, of which the extremes to the north and south were distinctly
visible. The latter was a remarkable headland, having at its extremity two small
table hills, somewhat resembling boats turned bottom upwards, and was named
Cape Hotham, after Rear-Admiral the Honourable Sir Henry Hotham, one of
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, At sunset we had a clear and
extensive view to the northward, between Cape Hotham and the eastern
land. On the latter several headlands were discovered and named ; between
the northernmost of these, called Cape Bowden, and the island to the west-
ward, there was a channel of more than eight leagues in width, in which
neither land nor ice could be seen from the mast-head. To this noble
channel I gave the name of Wellington, after his Grace the Master-General
of the Ordnance. The arrival off this grand opening was an event for which
we had long been looking with much anxiety and impatience ; for, the con-
tinuity of land to the northward had always been a source of uneasiness to
us, principally from the possibility that it might take a turn to the southward
and unite with the coast of America. The appearance of this broad
opening, free from ice, and of the land on each side of it, more especially

52

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. that on the west, leaving scarcely a doubt on our minds of the latter being an
island, relieved us from all anxiety on that score ; and every one felt that we
were noAV finally disentangled from the land which forms the western side of
Baffin’s Bay ; and that, in fact, we had actually entered the Polar sea. Fully im-
pressed with this idea, I ventured to distinguish the magnificent opening through
which our passage had been effected from Baffin’s bay to Wellington channel,
by the name of Barrow’s Strait, after my friend, Mr. Barrow, Secretary of the
Admiralty ; both as a private testimony of my esteem for that gentleman, and
as a public acknowledgment due to him for his zeal and exertions in the
promotion of Northern Discovery. To the land on which Cape Hotham is
situated, and which is the easternmost of the group of islands, (as we found
them to be by subsequent discovery,) in the Polar sea, I gave the name of
Cornwallis Island, after Admiral the Honourable Sir William Cornwallis,
my first naval friend and patron ; and an inlet, seven miles to the north^vard
of Cape Hotham, was called Barlow Inlet, as a testimony of my respect for
Sir Robert Barlow, one of the Commissioners of His Majesty’s navy.

Though two-thirds of the month of August had now elapsed, I had every
reason to be satisfied with the progress which we had hitherto made. I cal-
culated upon the sea being still navigable for six weeks to come, and pro-
bably more if the state of the ice would permit us to edge away to the south-
ward in our progress westerly: our prospects, indeed, were truly exhila-
rating ; the ships had suffered no injury ; we had plenty of provisions ;
crews in high health and spirits ; a sea, if not open, at least navigable ; and
a zealous and unanimous determination in both officers and men to accom-
plish, by all possible means, the grand object on which we had the hap-
piness to be employed.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

53

CHAPTER III.

FAVOURABLE APPEARANCES OF AN OPEN WESTERLY PASSAGE — LAND TO THE
NORTHWARD, A SERIES OF ISLANDS — GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THEM —
MEET WITH SOME OBSTRUCTION FROM LOW ISLANDS SURROUNDED WITH
ICE — REMAINS OF ESQUIMAUX HUTS, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF BYAM
MARTIN ISLAND — TEDIOUS NAVIGATION FROM FOGS AND ICE — DIFFICULTY OF
STEERING A PROPER COURSE — ARRIVAL AND LANDING ON MELVILLE ISLAND
— PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD, AND REACH THE MERIDIAN OP 110°W.
LONG., THE FIRST STAGE IN THE SCALE OF REWARDS GRANTED BY ACT
OF PARLIAMENT.

A CALM which prevailed during the night kept us nearly stationary off 1819.
Beechey Island till three A.M. on the 23d, when a fresh breeze sprung up
from the northward, and all sail was made for Cape Hotham, to the south-
ward of which it was now my intention to seek a direct passage towards
Behring’s Strait. Wellington channel, to the northward of us, was as open
and navigable, to the utmost extent of our view, as any part of the Atlantic,
but as it lay at right angles to our course, and there was still an opening at
least ten leagues wide to the southward of Cornwallis Island, I could fortu-
nately have no hesitation in deciding which of the two it was our business to
pursue. If, however, the sea to the westward, which was our direct course, had
been obstructed by ice, and the wind had been favourable, such was the tempt-
ing appearance of Wellington channel, in which there was no visible impedi-
ment, that I should probably have been induced to run through it, as a degree
more or less to the northward made little or no difference in the distance we
had to run to Icy Cape. The open channel to the westward did not, how-

54

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. ever, reduce me to this dilemma. It is impossible to conceive any thing
more animating than the quick and unobstructed run with which we were
favoured, from Beechey Island across to Cape Hotham. Most men have,
probably, at one time or another, experienced that elevation of spirits which
is usually produced by rapid motion of any kind; and it will readily be con-
ceived how much this feeling was heightened in us, in the few instances in
which it occurred, by the slow and tedious manner in which the greater part
of our navigation had been performed in these seas. Our disappointment
may therefore be imagined, when, in the midst of these favourable appear-
ances, and of the hope with which they had induced us to flatter our-
selves, it was suddenly * and unexpectedly reported from the crow’s-
nest, that a body of ice lay directly across the passage between Cornwallis
Island and the land to the southward. As we approached this obstruction,
which commenced about Cape Hotham, we found that there was, for the
present, no opening in it through which a passage could be attempted.
After lying to for an hour, however. Lieutenant Beechey discovered from the
crow’s-nest, that one narrow neck appeared to consist of loose pieces of
heavy ice detached from the main floes which composed the barrier, and that,
beyond this, there was a considerable extent of open water. The Hecla was
immediately pushed into this part of the ice, and, after a quarter of an hour’s
“ boring,” during which the breeze had, as usual, nearly deserted us, suc-
ceeded in forcing her way through the neck. The Griper followed in the
opening which the Hecla had made, and we continued our course to the
westward, having once more a navigable sea before us.

We now remarked, that a very decided change had taken place in the
character of the land to the northward of us since leaving Beechey Island ;
the coast near the latter being bold and precipitous next the sea, with very
deep water close to it, while the shores of Cornwallis Island rise with a
gradual ascent from a beach which appeared to be composed of sand. During
the forenoon we passed several riplings on the surface of the water, which
were probably occasioned by the set of the tides round each end of Corn-
wallis Island, as we found a depth of ninety-five fathoms. An opening was
seen in the southern land, which I distinguished by the name of Cunning-
ham Inlet, after Captain Charles Cunningham of the Royal Navy, resident
Commissioner at Deptford and Woolwich, to whose kindness and attention
we were much indebted during the equipment of the ships for this service. A
bluff and remarkable cape, which forms the eastern point of Cunningham

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

55

Inlet obtained, by Lieutenant Hoppner’s desire, the name of Cape Gifford, 1819.
out of respect to his friend, Mr. Gifford, a gentleman well known and highly
respected, as he deserves to be, in the literary world. To the eastward of
Cape GifKird, a thick haze covered the horizon, and it prevented us from
seeing more land in that direction ; so that its continuity from hence to Cape
Clarence still remained undetermined, while, to the westward, it seemed to
be terminated rather abruptly by a headland, which I distinguished by the
name of Cape Bunny.

At noon, we had reached the longitude of 94° 43' 15", the latitude, by
observation, being 74° 20' 52", when we found that the land which then
formed the western extreme on this side was' a second island, which,
after Rear-Admiral Edward Griffith, I called Griffith Island. Imme-
diately opposite to this, upon Cornwallis Island, is a conspicuous headland,
which, at some distance, has the appearance of being detached, but which,
on a nearer approach, was found to be joined by a piece of low land. To
this I gave the name of Cape Martyr, after a much esteemed friend. At
two P.M., having reached the longitude of 95° 07", we came to some heavy
and extensive floes of ice, which obliged us to tack, there being no passage
between them. We beat to the northward during the whole of the after-
noon, with a fresh breeze from that quarter, in the hope of finding a
narrow channel under the lee of Griffith Island. In this expectation we
were, however, disappointed, for, at eight P.M., we were near enough to
perceive not only that the ice was quite close to the shore, but that it
appeared not to have been detached from it at all during this season. We,
therefore, bore up, and ran again to the southward, where the sea by this
time had become rather more clear along the lee margin of a large field of
ice extending far to the westward. The ice in this neighbourhood was
covered with innumerable “ hummocks,” such as I have before endea-
voured to describe as occurring in the southern part of Prince Regent’s
Inlet, and the floes were from seven to ten feet in thickness. It may here
be remarked, as a fact not altogether unworthy of notice, that, from the
time of our entering Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, till we had passed the
meridian of 92°, near which the northern shore of Barrow’s Strait ceases to
be continuous, the wind, as is commonly the case in inlets of this kind,
had invariably blown in a direction nearly due east or due west, being that
of the shores of the strait. When, therefore, we experienced to-day, for
the first time, a fresh breeze blowing steadily from the northward, or

56

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

August.

Tues. 24.

directly off the land, we were willing, though perhaps without much reason,
to construe this circumstance into an additional indication of the shores
near which we were now sailing being altogether composed of islands, down
the channels between which the wind blew, and that therefore no obstruction
from continued land was any longer to be apprehended.

After various unsuccessful attempts to get through the ice which now lay
in our way, we were at length so fortunate as to accomplish this object by
“ boring” through several heavy “ streams,” which occasioned the ships to
receive many severe shocks ; and, at half an hour before midnight, we were
enabled to pursue our course, through “ sailing ice,” to the westward.

A fog came on, on the morning of the 24th, which once more reduced us
to the necessity of depending on the steadiness of the wind for a knowledge
of the direction in which we were steering, or of having recourse to the
unpleasant alternative of heaving to, till the weather should become clear.
The former was, of course, preferred, and we pushed on with all the canvass
which the Griper’s bad sailing would allow us to carry, using the very
necessary precaution of keeping the hand-leads constantly going. We
passed one field of ice, of immense length, the distance which we ran
along it, without meeting a single break in it, being, according to the
report of the officers, from eight to ten miles, and its general thickness
about eight feet. In this manner we had sailed between fifteen and twenty
miles in a tolerably clear sea, when, on the fog clearing away, at seven
A.M., we found, by the bearings of the sun, that the wind had not deceived
us, and that we had made nearly all westing during the night’s run. We
also saw land to the northward of us, at the distance of nine or ten miles,
appearing like an island, which it afterwards proved to be, and which I
named after Viscount Lowther, one of the lords of His Majesty’s treasury.
Shortly after, we also saw land to the south, so that we could not but
consider ourselves fortunate in having steered so directly in the proper
course for sailing in this channel during the continuance of the foggy
weather. The land to the southward was high and bold, being terminated
to the eastward by a bluff headland, which I named after Mr. Walker, of
the Hydrographical Office, at the Admiralty. Immediately at the back of
Cape Walker, or to the southward of it, the loom of land was distinctly
visible, but, from the state of the weather, we could not ascertain its extent.
We here obtained soundings in sixty-three fathoms, on a bottom of sand
and small stones, with some pieces of coral.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

57

The wind, drawing more to the westward soon after the clearing up of 1819.
the fog, obliged us to beat to windward during the rest of the day between
the two lands, that to the southward being loaded with ice, while the
shores of Lowther Island were perfectly clear and accessible. As we
stood in towards the south-west point of the island, in the afternoon, we
found the water deepen from sixty-five to seventy-six fathoms, the latter
soundings being at the distance of two miles and a half from the shore;
and, in standing off again to the south-westward, came rather unexpectedly to
a low sandy-looking island, having a great deal of heavy ice aground near
it; to this I gave the name of Young’s Island, after Dr. Thomas Young,
Secretary to the Board of Longitude. We tacked in thirty-four fathoms
at three miles’ distance from this island; and, from the quantity of heavy
ice near it, which is a never-failing beacon in these seas, it seems more than
probable that it is surrounded by shoal water.

It now became evident that all the land around us consisted of islands, and
the comparative shoaliness of the water made great caution necessary in pro-
ceeding, surrounded as we were by both land and ice in almost every direction.

In the course of the evening, more land came in sight to the northward ;
but the distance was at this time too great to enable us to distinguish its
situation and extent.

Early on the following morning, Lieutenant Beechey discovered, from the Wed. 25.
crow’s nest, a second low island, resembling Young’s Island in size and
appearance, and lying between three and four leagues to the northward
of it. I gave it the name of Davy Island, after Sir Humphry Davy, now
President of the Royal Society. The nearest land which we had seen to
the northward, on the preceding evening, proved to be another island,
four or five miles long from east to west, which I distinguished by the name
of Garrett Island, out of respect to my much-esteemed friend Captain
Henry Garrett, of the royal navy, to whose kind offices and friendly
attention during the time of our equipment, I must ever feel highly
indebted. The land to the northward of Garrett Island was found to be
another island of considerable extent, having, towards its eastern end, a remark-
able peaked hillock, very conspicuous when seen from the southward.

I named this Bathurst Island, in honour of the Earl of Bathurst, one of
His Majesty’s principal secretaries of state, and a bay near its south-eastern
point, was called Bedford Bay.

The islands which we had discovered during this day’s navigation, among

I

58

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. which I have not ventured to include the land to the southward of Lowther
Island, of which we obtained a very imperfect view, are generally of a
moderate height, not exceeding perhaps four or five hundred feet above
the level of the sea. With the exception of some parts of Bathurst Island,
which have a more rugged aspect, and which rise to a greater elevation
than this, we found them entirely clear of snow, and when the sun was shining
upon them, they exhibited a brown appearance. In standing in towards
Garrett Island, the water was found to deepen from forty to sixty-five,
seventy, and eighty fathoms ; the latter soundings occurring at two miles
distance from the south-eastern point of the island, where we suddenly
met with a strong rippling on the surface of the water : as no irregularity could
be found in the bottom, this rippling was perhaps occasioned by the meeting
of the tides in this place.

Thur. 26. We had seen no whales nor narwhals since leaving Cape Riley on the
morning of the 23d ; and it was now remarked, not without some degree of un-
pleasant feeling, that not a single bird, nor any other living creature, had for
the whole of this day made its appearance. It was, however, encouraging to
find, while advancing to the westward, as fast as an unfavourable wind would
permit, that, although the sea beyond us was for the most part covered with
a compact and undivided body of ice, yet that a channel of sufficient breadth
was still left open for us between it and the shore, under the lee of Bathurst
Island. The ice here consisted almost entirely of fields, the limits of which
were not visible from the mast-head, and which were covered with the same
kind of hummocks as before described. The westernmost land now in sight was
a cape, which I named after Vice-Admiral Sir George Cockburn, one of the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. This cape appeared, during the
day, to be situated on a small island detached from Bathurst Island ; but,
on approaching it towards evening, we found them to be connected by a
low sandy beach or isthmus, over which some high and distant hills were
seen to the north-westward. An opening in the land near this beach, and
which had very much the appearance of a river, with some rocky islets at
its mouth, was named Allison Inlet, after the Greenland master of the
Hecla. The water became very light coloured as we stood in towards this
part of the coast, and we tacked in twenty-six fathoms, at six or seven
miles’ distance from it, continuing to beat to the westward.

We gained so little ground during the night, and in the early part of the
following morning, notwithstanding the smoothness of the water, and a fine

r

I

I

F, 3eec^^ del, ■ F. Clark sculp,

Zcndo7i,Tublished. fy I, Mun'a^', JS22.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

59

working breeze, that I am confident there must have been a tide setting 1819.
against us off Cape Cockburn ; but, as it was of material importance to get
round this headland, before a change of wind should set the ice in upon the
shore, I did not deem it proper to heave-to, for the purpose of trying the
direction in which it was running. After three A.M., the ships began to
make much better way, so that I considered it likely that the tide had
slackened between three and four o’clock ; and if so, the time of slack water
at this place would be, on full and change days, a few minutes after eleven :
and as this time, with the proper correction applied, seems to correspond
pretty accurately with that of high water at the other places, to the eastward
and westward, where we had an opportunity of observing it, we could
scarcely doubt that it was the flood-tide which had now been setting against
us from the westward. From these circumstances, I have ventured to
mark the time of high water, and the direction of the flood-tide, upon the
chart, both being confessedly subject to correction by future navigators.
Several seals were here seen upon the ice, and a single bird with a long
bill, resembling a curlew.

While beating round Cape Cockburn, our soundings were from thirty-three
to twenty-one fathoms, on a bottom of small broken shells and coral ; and
some star-fish {Asterias) came up on the lead. After rounding this headland,
the wind favoured us by coming to the S.S.W. ; and as we stood on to the west-
ward, the water deepened very gradually till noon, when being in latitude,
by observation, 75° OT 51", and longitude, by chronometers, 101° 39' 09",
we sounded in sixty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of mud of a peculiar flesh-
colour. The high land, which had been seen on the preceding evening,
over the low beach to the eastward of Cape Cockburn, now appeared also
to form a part of Bathurst Island, which we afterwards found to be the
case, (on our return in 1820,) the intermediate parts of the land being too low
to be clearly distinguished at our present distance. The land to the
westward of Cape Cockburn sweeps round into a large bay, which I named
after Vice-Admiral Sir Graham Moore.

The weather was at this time remarkably serene and clear, and, although
we saw a line of ice to the southward of us, lying in a direction nearly east
and west, or parallel to the course on which we were steering, and some
more land appeared to the westward, yet the space of open water was still
§0 broad, and the prospect from the mast-head, upon the whole, so flattering,
that I thought the chances of our separation had now become greater

60

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. than before ; and I therefore considered it right to furnish Lieutenant Liddon
with fresh instructions, and to appoint some new place of rendezvous, in case
of unavoidable separation from the Hecla. A boat was, therefore, dropped
on hoard the Griper for that purpose, without her heaving-to ; and the same
opportunity was taken to obtain a comparison between our chronometers.
About seven P.M., we were sufficiently near to the western land, to ascertain
that it was part of another island, which I named after Vice-Admiral
Sir Thomas Byam Martin, Comptroller of His Majesty’s navy ; and by eight
o’clock we perceived that the body of ice to the southward, along which we
had been sailing, took a turn to the north, and stretched quite in to the
shore, near a low point, off which a great quantity of heavy ice was aground.
At ten o’clock, after having had a clear view of the ice and of the land about
sunset; and finding that there was at present no passage to the westward,
we hauled off to the south-east, in the hope of finding some opening in the
ice to the southward, by which we might get round in the desired di-
rection. We were encouraged in this hope by a dark “ water-sky” to the
southward ; but, after running along the ice till half-past eleven, without
perceiving any opening, we again bore-up to return towards the island.
There was, in this neighbourhood, a great deal of that particular kind of ice,
called by the sailors “ dirty ice,” on the surface of which were strewed sand,
stones, and in some instances, moss ; ice of this kind must, of course, at one
time or other, have been in close contact with the land. On one of these
pieces, towards which the Hecla was standing, a little sea was observed break-
ing ; and, on a nearer approach, it so exactly resembled a rock above water,
that I thought it prudent to heave all the sails aback, till a boat had been
sent to examine it. We saw several fulmar petrels, and one or two seals,
in the course of this day’s run.

Sat. 28. As we approached the south point of the island, to which I gave the name
of Cape Gillman, out of respect to the memory of the late Sir John Gillman,
we found the ice in the same position as before ; and I therefore hauled to
the north-east, with the intention of attempting a passage round the north
side of the island. In standing in, towards Cape Gillman, our soundings
gradually decreased from eighty to twenty-three fathoms, the latter depth
occurring at the distance of two to four miles from the shore. At ten A.M.,
the wind being very light from the S.S.E., I despatched Captain Sabine and
Mr. Ross, accompanied by Messrs. Edwards and Fisher, to the eastern point
of the island, which we were about to round in the ships, in order to

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

61

make the necessary observations, and to examine the natural productions 1819.
of the shore. Our latitude at noon was 75° 03' 12", long. 103° 44' 37", and
the depth of water forty fathoms. A thick fog came on in the afternoon, soon
after the boat had landed, which made me apprehensive that she would not
easily find her way back to the ship. We continued to stand off-and-on by
the lead, which seems a very safe guide on this coast, firing guns frequently,
till five P.M,, when we were not sorry to hear our signals answered by
musquets from the boat. The gentlemen reported, on their return, that they
had landed on a sandy beach, near the east point of the island, which they
found to be more productive, and altogether more interesting than any other
part of the shores of the Polar regions which we had yet visited. The remains
of Esquimaux habitations were found in four different places. Six of these,
which Captain Sabine had an opportunity of examining, and which are
situated on a level sandy bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea,
are described by him as consisting of stones rudely placed in a circular, or
rather an elliptical, form. They were from seven to ten feet in diameter; the
broad, ffat sides of the stones standing vertically, and the whole structure, if
such it may be called, being exactly similar to that of the summer huts of
the Esquimaux, which we had seen at Hare Island, the preceding year.
Attached to each of them was a smaller circle, generally four or five feet in
diameter, which had probably been the fire-place. The small circles were
placed indifferently, as to their direction from the huts to Avhich they belonged ;
and from the moss and sand which covered some of the lower stones,
particularly those which composed the ffooring of the huts, the whole en-
campment appeared to have been deserted for several years. Very recent
traces of the rein-deer and musk-ox were seen in many places ; and a
head of the latter, with several rein-deers’ horns, was brought on board.

A few patches of snow remained in sheltered situations ; the ravines, however,
which were numerous, bore the signs of recent and considerable ffoods, and
their bottoms were swampy, and covered with very luxuriant moss, and other
vegetation, the character of which differed very little from that of the land at the
bottom of Possession Bay. The basis of the island is sandstone, of which by far
the greater part of the mineralogical specimens brought on board consisted ;
besides these, some rich granite and red feldspar were met with, together
with some other sulptances which are described by Mr. Konig in the
Appendix. A number of shells, of the Venus tribe, were found imbedded
in the bottom of the ravines. A thermometer, of which the bulb was buried

62

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. two or three inches in the sand, considerably above high-water mark, in-
dicated the temperature of 351° ; that of the air, the sun being obscured by
clouds at the time, being 33|°.

The latitude of the place of observation was 75° 09' 23", and the longitude, by
chronometers, 103° 4-4' 37". The dip of the magnetic needle was 88° 25'. 58, and
the variation was now found to have changed from 128° 58' West, in the longitude
of 91° 48', where our last observations on shore had been made, to 165° 50' 09"
East, at our present station ; so that we had, in sailing over the space included be-
tween those two meridians, crossed immediately to the northward of the mag-
netic pole, and had undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon the globe,
where the needle would have been found to vary 180°, or in other words,
where its north pole would have pointed due south. This spot would, in all
probability, at this time be somewhere not far from the meridian of 100°
west of Greenwich. It would undoubtedly have been extremely interesting
to obtain such an observation, and in any other than the very precarious
navigation in which we were now engaged, I should have felt it my
duty to devote a certain time to this particular purpose; but, under
present circumstances, it was impossible for me to regret the cause
which alone had prevented it, especially as the importance to science of
this observation was not sufficient to compensate the delay which the
search after such a spot would necessarily have occasioned, and which could
hardly be justified at a moment when we were making, and for two
or three days continued to make, a rapid and unobstructed progress towards
the accomplishment of our principal object. Captain Sabine remarked, in
obtaining the observations for the variation, that the compasses, which were
those of Captain Kater’s construction, required somewhat more tapping with
the hand, to make them traverse, than they did at the place of observation in
Prince Regent’s Inlet, on the 7th of August, where the magnetic dip was
very nearly the same ; but that, when they had settled, they indicated the
meridian with more precision. For instance, on the 7th of August, the
compass, when levelled on its stand, would traverse of itself; but if the
bearing of any object were observed with it, and the compass frequently
removed and replaced, the bearings so obtained would differ from each
other, notwithstanding much tapping, to the amount of 3° or 4°; whereas
on the present occasion, more sluggishness was observable, yet, at the same
time, a closer agreement in the successive results.

The tide was rising by the shore, from noon till half past four P.M., at

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

63

which time the boats left the beach; and, by the high-water mark, it was 1819.
considered probable that it had yet to rise full an hour longer. The time of
high water, therefore, may be taken at half past five, which will make that of
the full and change days about twelve o’clock. Mr. Ross found, on rowing
round the point near which he landed, that the stream was setting strong
against him from the northward. We had tried the current in the offing at
noon, by mooring the small boat to the bottom, when it was found to be run-
ning in a south direction, at the rate of half a mile per hour. At four P.M.,
near the same station, it was setting S.S.W., five-eighths of a mile an hour, so
that it would appear tolerably certain that the flood-tide here comes from the
northward.

The wind became very light from the eastward, and the weather continued Sun. 29.
so foggy that nothing could be done during the night but to stand off-and-on,
by the soundings, between the ice and the land ; as we had no other means
of knowing the direction in which we were sailing, than by the decrease in
the depth of water on one tack, and by making the ice on the other. The fog
froze hard upon the rigging, which always makes the working of the ship
a very laborious task, the size of the running rigging being sometimes thus
increased to three times its proper diameter. At four A.M. on the 29th, the
current was tried by mooring a boat to the bottom, but none could be detected.

About this time the fog partially cleared away for a little while, when we ob-
served that the ice was more open off Cape Gillman, than when we had before
attempted to pass in that direction. At five o’clock, therefore, we made sail
for the point, with a light easterly breeze ; but at seven, when we had pro-
ceeded only two or three miles, the fog came on again as thick as before : for-
tunately, however, we had previously been enabled to take notice of several
pieces of ice, by steering for each of which in succession, we came to the edge
of a floe, along which our course was to be pursued to the westward. As
long as we had this guidance, we advanced with great confidence ; but as soon
as we came to the end of the floe, which then turned off to the southward, the
circumstances under which we were sailing were, perhaps, such as have never
occurred since the early days of navigation. To the northward was the land ;
the ice, as we supposed, to the southward; the compasses useless; and the sun
completely obscured by a fog, so thick that the Griper could only now and then
be seen at a cable’s length astern. We had literally, therefore, no mode of
regulating our course but by once more trusting to the steadiness of the wind ;
and it was not a little amusing, as well as novel, to see the quarter-master

64^

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. conning the ship by looking at the dog- vane. Under all these circumstances,
it was necessary to run under easy sail, the breeze having gradually freshened
up from the eastward. Our soundings were at this time extremely regular,
being from forty-one to forty-five fathoms, on a bottom of soft mud. At ten
o’clock the weather became clear enough to allow us to see our way through
a narrow part in a patch of ice which lay ahead, and beyond which there Avas
some appearance of a “ water-sky.” There is, however, nothing more deceit-
ful than this appearance during a fog, which, by the same optical illusion
whereby all other objects become magnified, causes every small “ hole” of
clear water to appear like a considerable extent of open and navigable sea.
We continued running till eleven P.M., when the fog came on again, making
the night so dark that it was no longer possible to proceed in any tolerable
security; I therefore directed the ships to be made fast to a floe, having
sailed, by our account, twelve miles, the depth of water being forty-four
fathoms.

Mon. 30. The fog continued till five A.M. on the 30th, when it cleared sufficiently to
give us a sight of the land, and of the heavy ice aground off Cape Gillman, the
latter being five or six miles to the northward of us, in which situation we had
deepened our soundings to fifty fathoms during the night’s drift. The state of
the ice, and of the weather, not permitting us to move. Captain Sabine, being
desirous of making some use of this unavoidable detention, and considering it
at all times important to confirm magnetic observations obtained on shore in
these high latitudes, by others taken upon the ice, employed himself in repeat-
ing his series of observations on the dip of the needle, which he found to be
88° 29. 12, differing only three minutes and a half from that obtained on shore
on the 28th, a few leagues to the northward and eastward of our present sta-
tion. The floe to which the ships were now secured was not more than six or
seven feet in thickness, and was covered with innumerable pools of Avater, most
of Avhich had communication Avith the sea, as Ave could with difficulty obtain any
that Avas sufficiently fresh for drinking. In many parts, indeed, there were
large holes through Avhich the sea Avas visible, and the under surface Avas much
decayed and honey-combed, being nearly in that state Avhich the Greenland
sailors call “ rotten.” Some of the officers amused themselves in skating on
the pools, all of Avhich Avere hard frozen on the surface; and the men in sliding,
foot-ball, and other games. By putting some drag-nets and oyster-dredges
overboard, and suffering them to drag along the ground as the ship drifted Avith
the ice, Ave obtained a few specimens of marine insects.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

65

In the evening a quantity of loose ice drifted down near the ships ; and, to 1819.
avoid being beset, we made sail towards the island, our soundings being from
thirty-five to seventeen fathoms : we were soon under the necessity of again
anchoring to a floe, till the weather should clear, being in twenty-one fathoms,
at the distance of three miles from the land.

The weather cleared a little at intervals, but not enough to enable us to pro- Tues.3l.
ceed till nine A.M. on the 31st, when we cast off from the ice, with a very light
air from the northward. W e occasionally caught a glimpse of the land through
the heavy fog-banks, with which the horizon was covered, which was sufficient to
give us an idea of the true direction in which we ought to steer. Soon after
noon we were once more enveloped in fog, which, however, was not so thick
as to prevent our having recourse to a new expedient for steering the ships,
which circumstances at the time naturally suggested to our minds. Before
the fog re-commenced, and while we were sailing on the course which by the
bearings of the land we knew to be the right one, the Griper was exactly
astern of the Hecla, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile. The wea-
ther being fortunately not so thick as to prevent our still seeing her at that
distance, the quarter-master was directed to stand aft, near the taffrail, and to
keep her constantly astern of us, by which means we contrived to steer a
tolerably straight course to the westward. The Griper, on the other hand,
naturally kept the Hecla right a-head; and thus, however ridiculous it may
appear, it is, nevertheless, true, that we steered one ship entirely by the other
for a distance of ten miles out of sixteen and a half, which we sailed between
one and eleven P.M. It then became rather dark, and the water having
shoaled from fifty to twenty-three fathoms somewhat more suddenly than usual,

1 did not consider it prudent to run any farther till it should become light and
clear enough to see around us, as it was probable that we were approaching
land of which we had no knowledge. We therefore hauled our wind to the
S.S.E., on the larboard tack, and at midnight had deepened the water to fifty-
two fathoms, being among rather close “ sailing ice*.”

The wind died away on the morning of the 1st of September, and the fog Sept,
was succeeded by snow and sleet, which still rendered the atmosphere ex-
tremely thick. At a quarter before four A.M., I was informed by the officer
of the watch that a breeze had sprung up, and that there was very little ice

* The monthly Meteorological Abstracts will be inserted at the end of each month, as
being more convenient for reference than if placed in a continued series in the Appendix.

K

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla, at Sea,

during the Month of August, 1819.

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Sea Water at the
surface.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Tempe-

rature.

Specific

Gravity,

Tempera-
ture when
weighed.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

+

o

36

+

o

33.5

+

34.50

+

o

32.6

1.0245

55.5

inches.

29.60

inches.

29.51

inches.

29.540

West

Fresh breezes and hazy.

2

41

33

37.00

34.2

1.0255

52

29.73

29.59

29.660

(N.E.bE.roundby ?
t South to West i

From fresh breezes to calms. Fine weather

3

38

33

;;35..58

33.2

1.0247

55

29.70

29.50

29.632

f A.M. S.W.bW. >
i P.M. East. 5

Moderate breezes and hazy.

4

37.5

33.5

35.29

32.8

1.0248

55

29.51

29.45

29.481

East

Strong breezes and hazy.

5

35

33.5

34.25

31.7

29.51

29.48

29.496

N.W.

Light airs and cloudy, with snow.

6

35

33

33.83

31.8

1.0232

59

29.56

29.51

29.530

North

Light breezes and cloudy.

7

36

31

33.83

31.6

1.0248

53

29.60

29.53

29.562

North

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

8

35

30

32.62

31.5

1.0256

38

29.65

29.59

29.622

N.W.

Light breezes and cloudy.

9

39.5

30.5

33.92

30.9

1.0255

56

29.67

29.62

29.650

N.W.bW. to S.S.W.

Ditto.

10

36

31

33.00

31.2

1.0246

56

29.55

29.52

29.540

S.bW.

Moderate breezes and hazy, with rain and snow.

11

35

33

33.42

31.0

1.0244

56

29.66

29.49

29.567

S.bW.

Moderate and foggy, with continued rain.

12

35

30

32.58

31.4

1.0240

55

29.85

29.80

29.820

N.bE.

Moderate and foggy, with rain at intervals.

13

40

30

36.88

32.2

1.0237

54

29.86

29.72

29.810

s.w.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

14

42

34

36.75

32.7

1.0239

55

29.76

29.61

29.717

N.N.W. to S.S.W.

Ditto ditto.

15

39

32

35.21

33.1

1.0236

55

29.63

29.61

29.620

S. Westerly

Ditto ditto.

16

36

33

34.00

32.8

1.0212

55

29.68

29.61

29.642

5S.S.E. round by?

1 S. toW.N.W. S

Light airs and hazy ; calm at times.

IT

35

32

33.42

32.6

1.0242

55

29.66

29.63

29.652

S.W.

Light airs and foggy weather.

18

36

32.5

33.67

32.5

1.0236

55

29.64

29.60

29.625

C A.M. S.W.bW. ?
i P.M. N.E.bE. 5

Light breezes and cloudy.

19

33

32

32.83

32.8

1.0233

57

29.55

29.53

29.542

E.bN.

Strong breezes & hazy, with rain, hail, & sleet.

20

36

33

34.86

32.6

1.0233

57

29.63

29.57

29.610

E.bN.

Light breezes and hazy weather.

21

36

33

34.79

32.5

1.018S

58

29.66

29.62

29.650

Round the Compass

Ditto.

22

38

33

35.62

33.2

1.0235

54

29.76

29.67

29.729

Ditto

Light variable airs — ^A.M. hazy, P.M. clear.

23

36

32

33.75

31.5

1.0247

54

29.76

29.66

29.712

North

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

24

30

28

29.50

30.1

1.0246

54

29.66

29.61

29.634

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

25

32

30

30.54

30.2

....

29.87

29.64

29.757

N.W.

Ditto.

26

35

30

31.92

30.4

30.06

29.95

30.012

N.W.bW.

Ditto.

27

34

30.5

32.58

:30.9

29.96

29.80

29.900

S.S.W.

Light breezes and fine clear weather.

28

34

30

32.00

31.8

29.70

29.60

29.657

S.S.E. to N.E.

Light breezes and foggy.

29

32

31

31.75

31.7

29.57

29.40

29.482

S.E.

Light airs and foggy.

30

34

30

32.08

31.1

29.36

29.31

29.332

N.E.'

Fresh breezes and foggy.

31

34

31

32.21

31.4

29.59

29.39

29.510

f N.W. round by 7

1 North to East j

Light airs, with sleet and snow.

42

28

33.67

31.93

30.06

29.31

29.635

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

67

near the ships. Anxious to take advantage of these favourable circumstances, 1819.

F directed all sail to be made to the westward: there was no difficulty in com-
plying with the first part of this order, but to ascertain which way the wind
was blowing, and to which quarter of the horizon the ship’s head was to be
directed, was a matter of no. such easy accomplishment; nor could we devise
any means of determining this question till five o’clock, when we obtained a
sight of the sun through the fog, and were thus enabled to shape our course,
the wind being moderate from the northward.

In standing to the southward, we had gradually deepened the water to one
hundred and five fathoms, and our soundings now as gradually decreased as
we stood to the westward, giving us reason to believe, as on the preceding
night, and from the experience we had acquired of the navigation among
these islands, that we were approaching land in that direction. In this sup-
position we were not deceived, for, at half-past eight, the fog having sud-
denly cleared up, we found ourselves within four or five miles of a low point
of land which was named after Mr. Griffiths, and which, being at the
distance of six or seven leagues from Byam Martin Island, we considered to
be part of another of the same group. We sailed along the shore at the
distance of two to four miles in a S.W.b.W. direction, and having dropped a
boat to obtain observations upon the ice, without heaving-to for that purpose,
we found ourselves to be, at noon, in latitude 74° 59' 35", and longitude,
by chronometers, 106° 07' 36". This land very much resembled, in height
and general character, the other islands which we had lately passed, being in
most parts of a brownish colour, among which we also imagined a little green
to be here and there discernible. We had some small rain in the afternoon,
which was succeeded by snow towards midnight.

At one A.M. on the 2d, a star was seen, being the first that had been Thurs. 2.
visible to us for more than two months. The fog came on again this morning,
which, together with the lightness of the wind preventing the ships getting
sufficient way to keep them under command, occasioned them some of the
heaviest blows which they had yet received during the voyage, although the
ice was generally so loose and broken as to have allowed an easy passage
with a moderate and leading wind. As none of the pieces near us were large
enough for securing the ships in the usual manner, we could only heave-to,
to windward of one of the heaviest masses, and allow the ship to drive with
it till some favourable change should take place. After lying for an hour in
this inactive and helpless situation, we again made sail, the weather being

68

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. rather more clear, which discovered to us that the main body of the ice was
about three miles distant from the land, the intermediate space being very
thickly covered with loose pieces, through which our passage was to be
sought. As we stood in for the land in the forenoon, we decreased our
soundings uniformly from twenty-seven to eleven fathoms at one and a half or
two miles from the beach, and a boat, which I sent to sound in-shore, found
the water to shoal very regularly to six fathoms at about half a mile. At
this distance from the beach, there were many large masses of ice aground;
and it was here that the method so often resorted to in the subsequent part
of the voyage, of placing the ships between these masses and the land, in
case of the ice closing suddenly upon us, first suggested itself to our minds.

As we were making no way to the westward, I directed two boats to be pre-
pared from each ship, for the purpose of making the usual observations on
shore, as well as to endeavour to kill deer ; and, at one P.M., I left the ship,
accompanied by a large party of officers and men, and was soon after joined
by the Griper’s boats. We landed on a very flat sandy beach, which did not
allow the boats to come nearer than their own length, and we were imme-
diately struck with the general resemblance in the character of this island to
that of Byam Martin Island, which we had lately visited. The basis of this
land is sandstone, but we met with limestone also, occurring in loose pieces on
the surface, and several lumps of coal were brought in by the parties who had
traversed the island in different directions. Our sportsmen were by no means
successful, having seen only two deer, which were too wild to allow them to
get near them. The dung of these animals, however, as well as that of the
musk-ox was very abundant, especially in those places where the moss was
most luxuriant ; every here and there we came to a spot of this kind,
consisting of one or two acres of ground covered with a rich vegetation, and
which was evidently the feeding-place of those animals, there being quantities
of their hair and wool lying scattered about. Several heads of the musk-
ox were picked up, and one of the Hecla’s seamen brought to the boat a
narwhal’s horn which he found on a hill more than a mile from the
sea, and which must have been carried thither by Esquimaux or by bears:
three or four brace of ptarmigan (Tetrao Lagopus,) were killed, and these
' were the only supply of this kind which we obtained. Serjeant Martin
of the artillery, and Captain Sabine’s servant, brought down to the beach
several pieces of a large fir-tree, which they found nearly buried in the sand,
at the distance of three or four hundred yards from the present high-water

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

69

mark, and not less than thirty feet above the level of the sea. We found no 1819.
indication of this part of the island having been inhabited, unless the
narwhal’s horn, above alluded to, be considered as such.

The latitude of the place of observation here, which was within a
hundred yards of the beach, was 74° 58', the longitude, by chronometers,

107° 03' 31".7, and the variation of the magnetic needle 151° 30' 03" eas-
terly. At forty minutes past one P.M., when the boats landed, the tide
had fallen a foot by the shore. It continued to fall till seven P.M., and
then rose again, the whole fall of tide not exceeding five or five and a half
feet. At the time we landed. Lieutenant Beechey tried for a current in the
offing, but could find none; at half-past seven, the tide was setting E.N.E., at
the rate of a mile and a half an hour; and, at a quarter before ten, after I
returned on board, it was still setting slowly to the eastward. By the
above observations, the time of high water, at the full and change of the
moon, seems to be about three quarters after one o’clock. The direction of
the flood-tide does not appear so clear. If it come from the westward, there
must be a tide and half tide ; but it seems more than probable, on an in-
spection of the chart, that here, as on the eastern side of Byam Martin Island,
it will be found to come from the northward between the islands. At the
top of a hill, immediately above the place of observation, and about a mile
from the sea, a bottle was buried, containing the usual information, A mound
of sand and stones was raised over it, and a boarding-pike fixed in the middle.

We returned on board at half past eight, and found that Lieutenant Beechey
had, in the mean time, taken a number of useful soundings, and made other
hydrographical remarks for carrying on the survey of the coast.

The wind continued light and variable till half-past eight x\.M, on the 3d, FHd. 3.
when a breeze from the northward once more enabled us to make some
progress. I was the more anxious to do so, from having perceived that the
main ice had, for the last twenty-four hours, been gradually, though slowly,
closing on the shore, thereby contracting the scarcely navigable channel in
which we were sailing. The land which formed our western extreme was a
low point, five miles to the westward of our place of observation the preceding
day, and the ice had already approached this point so much, that there was
considerable doubt whether any passage could be found between them. As we
neared the point, we shoaled the water rather quickly, though regularly, from
thirty to seven fathoms ; but, by keeping a little farther out, which fortunately
the ice just at that time allowed us to do, we avoided getting into shoaler

70

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. water, and immediately after rounding the point, we increased our soundings
to sixteen and seventeen fathoms. We had scarcely cleared the point, how-
ever, when the wind failed us, and the boats were immediately sent a-head
to tow, but a breeze springing up shortly after from the westward, obliged
us to have recourse to another method of gaining ground which we had not
hitherto practised : this was by using small anchors and whale-lines as warps,
by which means we made great progress, till, at forty minutes after noon,
we were favoured by a fresh breeze, which soon took us into an open space
of clear water to the northward and westward. While we were thus em-
ployed on board, Mr, Ross, after whom I named this point, had been des-
patched in a boat to sound in-shore near it, where there were a great many
large masses of ice aground, in order that we might be prepared to place the
ships in the most advantageous position, should the ice unexpectedly close
upon the shore. Mr. Ross reported, that he had found good depth of water
in-shore, the ice being aground in five to seven fathoms, after which the water
shoaled gradually towards the land, A little to the westward of Point Ross,
there was a barrier of this kind of ice, composed of heavy masses firmly fixed
to the ground at nearly regular intervals for about a mile, in a direction
parallel to the beach. At right angles to this, a second tier projected, of the
same kind of ice, extending to the shore, so that the two together formed a
most complete harbour, within which, I believe, a ship might have been
placed in case of necessity, without much danger from the pressure of the
external floes of ice. It was natural for us to keep in view the possibility of
our being obliged to pass the ensuing winter in such a harbour; and, it must be
confessed, that the apparent practicability of finding such tolerable security for
the ships as this artificial harbour afforded, should we fail in discovering a
more safe and regular anchorage, added not a little to the confidence with
which our operations were carried on during the remainder of the present
season.

The land immediately to the north-westward of Point Ross forms a
considerable bay, named after Mr, Skene, off which there was a large
space of clear water, where we had to beat to the northward during the
afternoon, as the ice lay in that direction. In standing off-and-on, we
shoaled the water in one place very suddenly from nineteen to eleven
fathoms, at the distance of one mile from the beach. Having tacked, I
sent Mr. Bushnan to sound in-shore, where a shoal was discovered three
quarters of a mile from the land, having three and four fathoms upon it, and

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

71

within it from eight to thirteen fathoms. The sun-set of this evening was 1819.
extremely beautiful, the weather being clear and frosty, and the sky
without a cloud. The moon rising soon after, afforded a spectacle no less
pleasing, and far more sublime. Her horizontal diameter appeared to be
very much elongated when just above the horizon, owing to the unequal
refraction of the upper and lower limbs; but it measured 33' 20", being
only 6" more than the true, which difference may have arisen from an error
in the observation. The vertical diameter measured 30' 40 ".

Having weathered all the ice round which we had to sail, in order to pro- Sat. 4.
ceed to the westward, we were under the necessity of lying-to, off Skene Bay,
for some hours, the weather having become very squally and unsettled, with
occasional fog, and the night not being sufficiently light to ascertain whether
there was a passage between the ice and a point of land which forms the
western extreme of the bay. On its eastern side an inlet, two miles wide
at the entrance, was discovered, and named after Mr. Beverly, and at the
bottom of this we did not see the land all round. At half-past two A.M., we
made sail to the westward, the Griper having been directed by signal to
extend her distance ; a precaution which was always adopted in cases
where shoal-water was to be apprehended, in order to avoid the risk of both
ships grounding at the same time. As we approached the point, the sound-
ings decreased gradually from thirty to seven fathoms, in which depth I
tacked, and despatched Mr. Palmer in a boat to sound round the point, to
which I gave the name of Cape Palmer, after the gentleman intrusted
with this service. Having been informed by signal from the boat, that no
less than six fathoms’ water had been found, we again tacked, and soon after
rounded the point in that depth, at the distance of three quarters of a
mile from a low sandy beach. We then ran several miles along the shore
without much obstruction, till the wind, backing to the north-west, obliged
us to make several tacks between the ice and the land, the navigable channel
being at this time between three and four miles wide. At noon we observed, in
latitude 74° 54' 49", the longitude, by chronometers, being 108° 31' 44", at which
time we were off a low, sandy island, which was named after Mr. Dealy, and
which lies near the entrance into a large inlet, to which the name of Bridport
Inlet was given, from regard to the memory of the late Lord Bridport. This
inlet runs a considerable distance to the northward, and seemed to afford good
shelter for ships ; but, as we had no opportunity of examining it in our
boats, I am unable to state any further particulars respecting it. The land to the

72

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

Sept.

Sun, 5.

westward of it, of which the most conspicuous partis a remarkable bluff head-
land, is much higher than that about Skene Bay ; and we ceased to obtain any
soundings with the hand-leads after we had passed the entrance of Bridport
Inlet. At a quarter-past nine P.M., we had the satisfaction of crossing the
meridian of 110° west from Greenwich, in the latitude of 74° 44' 20"; by
which His Majesty’s ships, under my orders, became entitled to the sum of
five thousand pounds, being the reward offered by the King’s order in coun-
cil, grounded on a late Act of Parliament, to such of His Majesty’s subjects
as might succeed in penetrating thus far to the westward within the Arctic
Circle. In order to commemorate the success which had hitherto attended
our exertions, the bluff headland, which we had just passed, was subsequently
called by the men Bounty Cape ; by which name I have, therefore, distin-
guished it on the chart.

As we stood to the westward, we found the extreme of the land in that
direction to be a low point, which was named after Samuel Hearne, the
well-known American traveller, and to the north-eastward of which is a
bay of considerable extent, which was perfectly free from ice. We con-
tinued our course towards Cape Hearne till midnight, when, the weather
being too dark to run any longer with safety, the ships were hove-to with their
heads to the eastward. One black whale was seen, in the course of this
day’s navigation, off Bridport Inlet ; and some flocks of snow-buntings were
flying about the ship at night.

At a quarter before three A.M., on the 5th, we tacked, and stood to the
westward, with the hope of getting past Cape Hearne, the wind being
moderate from the northward, and the weather thick with snow; and,
shortly after, we shoaled the water quickly from twenty-five to thirteen, and
then to nine, fathoms. We tacked in the latter depth, believing that we were
approaching a shoal, especially as we were near some heavy ice, which,
having a tide-mark upon it, appeared to be aground. We afterwards found,
however, that we had at this time been actually within three or four hundred
yards of Cape Hearne, which is so surrounded by heavy ice at a sufficient
distance from the shore, that it would perhaps be difficult to run a ship
aground upon it. The error into which we were here led, as to our distance
from the beach, arose from the extreme difficulty of distinguishing, even in
broad day-light, between the ice and the land, when the latter is low and
shelving, and completely covered with snow ; by the uniform whiteness of
which, they are so completely blended, as to deceive the best eye. Indeed,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

73

I know no circumstance in the navigation of these seas which renders more 1819.
necessary a vigilant look-out, and a careful attention to the hand-leads than
the deception to which I here allude.

Having stood again to the westward, to take a nearer view of the ice, we
perceived that it lay quite close in with Cape Hearne, notwithstanding the
fresh northerly wind which, for the last thirty-six hours, had been blowing
from the shore, and which had drifted the ice some distance to the south-
ward, in every other part of the coast along which we had lately been
sailing. This circumstance struck us very forcibly at the time, as an ex-
traordinary one ; and it was a general remark among us, that the ice must
either be aground in shoal-water, or that it butted against something to the
southward, which prevented its moving in that direction. Appearances being
thus discouraging, nothing remained to be done but to stand ofF-and-on
near the point, and carefully to watch for any opening that might occur.

After divine service had been performed, I assembled the officers, seamen,
and marines of the Hecla, and announced to them officially, that their
exertions had so far been crowned with success, as to entitle them to the first
prize in the scale of rewards, granted by His Majesty’s order in council above-
mentioned. I took this opportunity of impressing upon the minds of the men
the necessity of the most strenuous exertions during the short remainder
of the present season ; assuring them that, if we could penetrate a few de-
grees farther to the westward, before the ships were laid up for the winter,

I had little doubt of our accomplishing the object of our enterprise before
the close of the next season. I also addressed a letter to Lieutenant
Liddon, to the same effect, and directed a small addition to be made to the
usual allowance of meat, and some beer to be served, as a Sunday’s dinner,
on this occasion.

The wind increasing to a fresh gale from the northward in the afternoon,
and the ice still continuing to oppose an impenetrable barrier to our further
progress, I determined to beat up to the northern shore of the bay, and,
if a tolerable roadstead could be found, to drop our anchors till some
change should take place. This was accordingly done at three P.M., in
seven fathoms’ water, the bottom being excellent holding-ground, com-
posed of mud and sand, from which the lead could with difficulty be ex-
tricated. When we veered to half a cable, we had ten fathoms’ water under
the Hecla’s stern, our distance from the northern shore being about a mile
and a half. This roadstead, which I called the Bay of the Hecla and

74

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. Griper, affords very secure shelter with the wind from E.N.E., round by
north, to S.W., and we found it more free from ice than any other part of
the southern coast of the island.

I had great reason to be satisfied with our having anchored the ships, as
the wind shortly after blew a hard gale from the northward. In the evening
I sent Captain Sabine and Messrs. Edwards and Nias on shore to examine
the country, and to collect specimens of its natural productions ; they re-
turned at ten P.M., having landed on a low point a little to the westward of
the ships, which they found to be a very barren and unproductive spot ;
several flocks of ducks were seen, and some glaucous gulls and tern ;
the dung and foot-tracks of the deer and musk-ox were also observed in many
places ; and some addition was made by our gentlemen to our collection of
marine insects. The rocks are composed entirely of sandstone, but a few
small pieces of granite, flint, and coal, were also among the specimens brought
on board. This island, on which our boats had now landed for the second
time, and which is much the largest of the group we had lately discovered, I
honoured with the name of Melville Island, after Viscount Melville, the
First Lord of the Admiralty.

The bay of the Hecla and Griper was the first spot where we had dropped
anchor since leaving the coast of Norfolk ; a circumstance which was rendered
the more striking to us at the moment, as it appeared to mark, in a very de-
cided manner, the completion of one stage of our voyage. The ensigns and
pendants were hoisted as soon as we had anchored, and it created in us no
ordinary feelings of pleasure to see the British flag waving, for the first time,
in these regions, which had hitherto been considered beyond the limits of the
habitable part of the world.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

75

CHAPTER IV.

FURTHER EXAMINATION OF MELVILLE ISLAND — CONTINUATION OF OUR PRO-
GRESS TO THE WESTWARD — LONG DETENTION BY THE ICE — PARTY SENT
ON SHORE TO HUNT DEER AND MUSK-OXEN — RETURN IN THREE DAYS, AFTER
LOSING THEIR WAY — ANXIETY ON THEIR ACCOUNT — PROCEED TO THE
WESTWARD, TILL FINALLY STOPPED BY THE ICE — IN RETURNING TO THE
EASTWARD THE GRIPER FORCED ON THE BEACH BY THE ICE — SEARCH FOR,

AND DISCOVERY OF, A WINTER HARBOUR ON MELVILLE ISLAND — OPERA-
TIONS FOR SECURING THE SHIPS IN THEIR WINTER QUARTERS.

As the wind still continued to blow strong from the northward on the morn-
ing of the 6th, without any appearance of opening a passage for us past Cape
Hearne, I took the opportunity of sending all our boats from both ships at ^
eight A.M,, to bring on board a quantity of moss-peat which our gentlemen
reported having found near a small lake at no great distance from the sea,
and which I directed to be substituted for part of our usual allowance of
coals. Captain Sabine also went on shore to make the requisite observations,
and several of the officers of both ships to sport, and to collect specimens of
natural history. The boats rowed round the point on which they had landed
the preceding evening, and which Captain Sabine now selected as the most
convenient place of observation ; and discovered just beyond it to the north-
ward, a small harbour, having a bar at its entrance, upon which Mr. Fife,
the Greenland master of the Griper, after whom the harbour was named,
found ten feet water at nearly low tide.

The latitude of the point is 74° 46' 56 ", and its longitude, by our chrono-
meters, 110° 33' 59". The dip of the magnetic needle was found to be
88° 29.91, and the variation 126° 17' 18" Easterly. It was low water by the

I. 2

76

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819, shore at half-past nine, and it had risen between two and three feet when the
boats came away at half-past twelve. During this time the ships were tend-
ing to a tide coming strong from the eastward; from which direction it is
therefore probable, that the flood-tide* runs on this part of the coast, though
we had no satisfactory opportunity of trying its true set in the offing. Near
the point where the observations were made, a bottle was buried, containing
a paper as usual, and a pile of stones raised over it. The weather was this
day unusually cold to the feelings, to a greater degree even than might have
been expected from the indication of the thermometer, which, for the first
time, had been as low as 25°.

The wind beginning to moderate soon after noon, and there being at length
some appearance of motion in the ice near Cape Hearne, the boats were im-
mediately recalled from the shore, and returned at two P.M., bringing some
peat, which was found to burn tolerably, but a smaller quantity than
I had hoped to procure, owing to a misunderstanding as to the distance at
which it was to be found from the sea. At half-past two, as soon as the ship’s
company had dined, we began to heave at the cable, but so excellent is the
holding ground, that it required all the purchase as well as strength we could
apply, to start the anchor by half-past four. We then made sail for Cape
Hearne, which we rounded at six o’clock, having no soundings with from
seventeen to twenty fathoms of line, at the distance of a mile and a quarter
from the point. The extreme of the land which now appeared to the west-
ward bore about S.W.b.W., and there was a sufficient space of clear water
along the shore to allow us to steer for it. It was impossible, however, not
to remark to how short a distance from the shore, not exceeding three or four
miles, the ice had been drifted by the late strong gales. We had observed,
however, that, in rounding Cape Hearne this evening, the wind had drawn
gradually to the eastward as we proceeded, taking nearly the direction of
the shore, and we were willing to hope that it had been blowing from the
same quarter, while we were lying at anchor in the bay ; in which case it
was not necessary to suppose any such serious obstruction to the southward
as that to which we had at first been inclined to attribute these unfavourable
appearances.

I was beginning once more to indulge in those flattering hopes, of which
often-repeated disappointments cannot altogether deprive us, when I
perceived, from the crow’s-nest, a compact body of ice, extending completely
in to the shore near the point which formed the western extreme. We ran

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

77

sufficiently close, to be assured that no passage to the westward could at is 19.
present be effected, the floes being literally upon the beach, and not a drop
of clear water being visible beyond them. I then ordered the ships to be
made fast to a floe, being in eighty fathoms’ water, at the distance of four or
five miles from the beach. The season had now so far advanced, as to make
it absolutely necessary to secure the ships every night from ten till two
o’clock, the weather being too dark during that interval to allow of our
keeping under-way in such a navigation as this, deprived as we were of
the use of the compasses. But, however anxious the hours of darkness must
necessarily be under such circumstances, the experience of the former voyage
had given us every reason to believe, that the month of September would
prove the most valuable period of the year for prosecuting our discoveries in
these regions, on account of the sea being more clear from ice at this time
than at any other. Feeling, therefore, as I did, a strong conviction, that the
ultimate accomplishment of our object must depend, in a great measure, on
the further progress we should make this season, I determined to extend our
operations to the latest possible period.

The wind having been fresh from the north-east during the night, we were Tues. 7.
this morning enclosed for a time by a quantity of loose ice drifting down upon
us. No change could be perceived in the state of the ice to the westward till
one P.M., when it appeared to be moving a little off the point. We
therefore warped the ships out, and made sail with a light but favourable
breeze. At eight P.M., however, having arrived at the point, and finding no
passage open, we made the ships fast in a large bay in a floe, in sixty-five
fathoms, at the distance of a mile and a half from the shore. I sent
Lieutenant Beechey on shore to look round from the hills for open
water to the westward,, as well as to sound round some heavy masses of ice
which were aground in-shore, and within which it would perhaps become
expedient to secure the ships in case of necessity. He reported on his
return, at ten P.M., that no clear water whatever could be seen along
the land, the ice being compact, and close in to the shore, as far as a bold
headland which now formed the western extreme of the island, and which
was from four to five leagues distant from us. The ice aground in-shore
was very close to the beach, which was steep-to, as our soundings in the offing
indicated. Lieutenant Beechey found, however, a depth of from twelve to
four fathoms within many of the masses ; but as there was little or no
room to swing within them, I preferred keeping the ships in their present

78

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

Sept.

Wed. 8.

situation, while the ice remained quiet. I was the more induced to do so from
the boldness of the beach, and the depth of the bay formed by the floe
to which we were now secured, which circumstances seemed to render it
more than probable, that the latter would take the ground long before the
ships could come in contact with it. We saw to-day, for the first time, a herd
of eight or nine animals, feeding near the beach, which, from their dark colour,
we supposed to be musk-oxen ; and the officers of the Griper killed two white
hares (Lepus Variabilis). The “ young” or “ bay” ice formed during the night
in all the sheltered places about the floe, and particularly in the bight in
which we were lying, to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch; and the
pools upon the floe were now almost entirely solid, affording the officers
and men, during the time of our unavoidable detention, the usual healthy
amusements of skating and sliding.

On the morning of the 8th, there being no prospect of any immediate
alteration in the ice, I directed the boats to be sent on shore from both
ships, to endeavour to procure some game, as well as to examine the pro-
ductions of this part of the island. On going to the mast-head, shortly
after the boats had been despatched, I found that the bight of ice in which
the ships were lying was not one floe, but foraied by' the close junction
of two, so that our situation was by no means so secure as I had sup-
posed; for this bight was so far from being a protection to us, in case of
the ice driving on shore, that it would probably be the means of “ nipping”
us between the floes which formed it. I therefore determined on imme-
diately removing the ships in-shore, and went in a boat to look out for
a place for that purpose, there being no alternative between this and our
returning some distance to the eastward, into the larger space of clear
water which we had there left behind us. I found that a heavy piece of ice
aground in twelve fathoms, at the distance of 'three hundred yards from
the beach, would suit our purpose for the Flecla, and another, in ten
fathoms, still nearer in-shore, was selected for the Griper. These masses
were from twenty to thirty feet above the sea, and each about the length
of the respective ships. The beach in this neighbourhood was so lined
with ice of this kind, that it would not have been easy for a ship to
have gone on shore in any part, there being generally from four to seven
fathoms on the outside of it, while the inner part of each mass was
literally upon the beach at low water. Some of the detached masses, at
a little distance from the shore, must have accumulated very considera-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

79

bly since they grounded, or else must have been forced up into their pre- 1819.
sent situations by an enormous pressure from without; as some of those ^5^5^
now aground in four or five fathoms would have drawn at least ten, if set
afloat again*.

At four P.M., the weather being quite calm, the ships were towed in-
shore by the boats, and made fast in the places selected for them. Our
parties from the shore returned with a white hare, several fine ptarmigans,
a few snow-buntings, some skulls of the musk-ox, and several rein-deers’
horns; but they were not fortunate enough to meet with either of the two
latter animals. The island is here, as in the other parts on which we had
landed, principally composed of sandstone, of which some spherical nodules,
one of them as large as a nine-pounder shot, were brought on board. Several
lumps of coal, which was here more abundant than we had yet found it,
were also picked up, and were found to burn with a clear lively flame,
like cannel coal, but without splitting and crackling in the same manner.

Impatient and anxious as we were to make the most of the short remainder Thurs. 9.
of the present season, our mortification will easily be imagined at perceiving,
on the morning of the 9th, not only that the ice was as close as ever to the
westward, but that the floes in our immediate neighbourhood were sensibly
approaching the shore. As there was no chance, therefore, of our being en-
abled to move, I sent a party on shore at day-light to collect what coal they
could find, and in the course of the day nearly two-thirds of a bushel, being
about equal to the Hecla’s daily expenditure, was brought on board. Our
sportsmen, who were out for several hours, could only procure us a hare,
and a few ducks.

The wind was light from the southward and westward, with foggy weather,,
which was afterwards succeeded by snow, and the ice continued gradually to
close on the shore till at length a floe came in contact with our berg, but with
so little violence as to produce no sensible effect upon it. The loose and heavy
pieces of ice found their way in, and surrounded the Hecla on all sides, but
produced no pressure from which any danger was to be apprehended. Con-

* For want of some more appropriate name by which these masses of ice might be dis-
tinguished, we were always in the habit of calling them bergs, which indeed they exactly
resemble, though comparatively of small dimensions, and evidently formed in a very
different manner from those enormous ice-islands, which are met with in Baffin’s Bay, but
of which we saw none to the westward of Barrow’s Strait.

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. sidering our present detention so near the shore a good opportunity for observ-
ing the time and rise of the tides, I caused a pole to be fixed on the beach for
this purpose, by which it was found to be high water at half past four in the
morning ; and the tide ebbed till half past ten. From this time till three quar-
ters after four P.M., when it was again high water, the tide had risen two feet
eight inches ; so that, small as this tide is, it seems to be very regular. The
direction of the stream of flood was, as usual, not so easy to determine, but I
shall give the facts as they occurred. At the time of low water by the shore,
and for an hour and a quarter before it took place, the current was setting to
the eastward, at the rate of three quarters of a mile per hour. It continued
to run thus for the greater part of the day, but at times it was observed to set
in the opposite direction, and now and then no current whatever was percep-
tible. From eight till eleven P.M. it was running strong to the westward,
after which it stopped, and then began to set the ice the contrary way. I have
been thus minute in mentioning the above particulars, not with a hope of
throwing any light upon the interesting question of the direction of the tides
in this part of the Polar Sea, but to shew how impossible it is, with the land
close to us on one side, and on the other innumerable masses of ice in almost
constant motion, to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion on this subject.

Frid, 10. It was nearly calm on the 10th, with thick snowy weather, which prevented
our seeing to any great distance round us. At five A.M., a floe coming from
the westward, ran against the berg, within which the Hecla was still secured,
turning it round as on a pivot. This occurrence is not an uncommon one in
Davis’ Strait, with bergs of very large size, when the centre part of them only
happens to be upon the ground. We were by this time so surrounded by ice
that no clear water was to be seen, except the small pool in which we lay ; and
all that could be done, under such circumstances, was to watch the motion of
the ice, and to be ready to shift the ship quickly round the berg, according as
the floes, by setting one way or the other, might endanger her being ‘‘ nipped.”
In the afternoon the ice slackened a little near us, when an attempt was made
to get the Hecla into a more secure birth in-shore ; but, after heaving a heavy
strain occasionally for several hours, we could only succeed before dark in
getting her into a small nook near the beach, in which, if no very violent
pressure occurred, she might be tolerably secure during the night. A party re-
turned in the evening from a shooting-excursion to the western cape, bringing
with them only three hares, and reporting that the sea was entirely covered
with ice as far as they could see to the westward from the hills.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

81

Mr. Fisher made an experiment on the specific gravity of a piece of ice, 1819.
taken from the mass to which the ship was secured. Being formed into a cube,
whose sides measured one foot three inches and a half, and set to float in the
sea, two inches and three quarters of it remained above the surface, the tem-
perature of the water at the time being 31°.

On the 11th there was no alteration in the ice near the ships, and Mr. Bush- Sat. 11.
nan, whom 1 despatched at day-light to the western cape, reported, on his return,
that appearances were equally unpromising in that quarter. Mi*. Dealy was
fortunate enough to kill the first musk-ox that our sportsmen had yet been able
to get near ; but, as it was at the distance of eight or ten miles from the ships,
our present situation, with regard to the ice, would not allow of my sending a
party of men to bring it on board. A piece of the meat which Mr. Dealy
brought with him was considered to taste tolerably well, but its smell was by
no means tempting. The dip of the magnetic needle, observed here by Captain
Sabine to-day, was 88° 36'. 95.

The wind increased to a fresh gale from the northward during the night, and Sun. 12.
on the morning of the 12th flew round to the N.N.W. in a very violent gust.

Soon after the ice began to drift past us to the eastward, at the rate of a mile
an hour, and carried away with it the berg to which the Hecla had been at-
tached on the 9th and 10th; so that we considered ourselves fortunate in having
moved to our present birth, which was comparatively a safe one. The Griper
remained also tolerably secure, and well sheltered from the drifting ice, which,
in the course of the forenoon, had acquired a velocity of more than a mile and
a half per hour. In the afternoon the ice began by degrees to drift, from the
shore to the westward of us, but the wind blowing hard from the wrong
quarter, it was impossible to think of moving the ships. A constant and
vigilant look-out was also necessary, lest the berg to which our hawsers were
secured should be forced off the ground, in which case we must inevitably have
been driven back many miles to the eastward, and the labour of the last ten days
would have been lost in a few hours. The night was cold and inclement, with
a heavy fall of snow, which being blown among the hills, caused great drifts
in the ravines, by which this part of the island is intersected.

I must now mention an occurrence which had caused considerable appre-
hension in our minds for the two last days, and the result of which had nearly
proved of very serious importance to the future welfare of the expedition.

Early on the morning of the 11th I received a note from Lieutenant Liddon,
acquainting me that, at day-light the preceding day, Mr. Fife, with a party of

M

82

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. six men, had been despatched from the Griper, with the hope of surprising
some rein-deer and musk-oxen, whose tracks had been seen in a ravine to the
westward of the ships. As they had not yet returned, in compliance with the
instructions given to Mr. Fife, and had only been supplied with a small quan-
tity of provisions, it was natural to apprehend that they had lost their way in
pursuit of game, more especially as the night had been too inclement for them
to have voluntarily exposed themselves to it. I therefore recommended to
Lieutenant Liddon to send a party in search of his people, and Messrs. Reid,
Beverly, and Wakeham, who immediately volunteered their services on the
occasion, were accordingly despatched for this purpose. Soon after their de-
parture, however, it began to snow, which rendered the atmosphere so ex-
tremely-thick, especially on the hills along which they had to travel, that this
party also lost their way in spite of every precaution, but fortunately got sight
of our rockets after dark, by which they were directed to the ships, and
returned at ten o’clock, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, without any
intelligence of the absentees.

At day-light on the following morning I sent Lieutenant Hoppner, with the
Hecla’s fore-royal-mast rigged as a flag-staff, which he erected on a conspicuous
hill four or five miles inland, hoisting upon it a large ensign, which might be
seen at a considerable distance in every direction. This expedient occurred to
us as a more certain mode of directing our absentees towards the ships than
that of sending out a number of parties, which I could not, in common pru-
dence, as well as humanity, permit to go to any great distance from the ships ;
but the snow fell so thick, and the drift was so great, during the whole of the
12th, that no advantage could at that time be expected from it, and another
night came without the absent party appearing.

Mon. 13. Our apprehensions on their account had by this time increased to a most
painful degree, and I therefore ordered four parties, under the command of
careful officers, to be prepared to set out in search of them the following
morning. These parties carried with them a number of pikes, having small
flags attached to them, which they were directed to plant at regular inter-
vals, and which were intended to answer the double purpose of guiding
themselves on their return, and of directing the absent party, should
they meet with them, to the ships. For the latter purpose a bottle was
fixed to each pike, containing the necessary directions for their guidance,
and acquainting them that provisions would be found at the large flag-staff
on the hill. Our searching parties left the ships soon after day-light, the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

83

wind still blowing hard from the westward, with incessant snow, and the 1819.
thermometer at 28°, This weather continued without intermission during
the day, and our apprehensions for the safety of our people were excited to
a most alarming degree, when the sun began to descend behind the western
hills, for the third time since they had left the ship ; I will not, therefore,
attempt to describe the joyful feelings we suddenly experienced, on the
Griper’s hoisting the signal appointed, to inform us that her men, or a part of
them, were seen on their return. Soon after we observed seven persons
coming along the beach from the eastward, who proved to be Mr. Nias
and his party, with four out of the seven men belonging to the Griper.

From the latter, consisting of the corporal of marines and three sea-
men, we learned that they had lost their way within a few hours after
leaving the ship, and had wandered about without any thing to guide
them till about ten o’clock on the following day, when they descried the
large flag-staff, at a great distance. At this time the whole party were
together ; but now, unfortunately, separated, in consequence of a difference
of opinion respecting the flag-staff, which Mr. Fife mistook for a smaller one
that had been erected some days before at a considerable distance to the east-
ward of our present situation ; and, with that impression, walked away in a
contrary direction, accompanied by two of his men. The other four who had
now returned, (of whom two were already much debilitated,) determined to
make for the flag-staff. When they had walked some distance and were enabled
to ascertain what it was, one of them endeavoured to overtake Mr. Fife, but was
too much fatigued, and returned to his comrades. They halted during a part
of the night, made a sort of hut of stones and turf to shelter them from the
weather, and kindled a little fire with gunpowder and moss to warm their
feet; they had never been in actual want of food, having lived upon raw
grouse, of which they were enabled to obtain a quantity sufficient for their
subsistence. In the morning they once more set forward towards the flag-
staff, which they reached within three or four hours after Lieutenant Beechey
had left some provisions on the spot : having eaten some bread, and drank a
little rum and water, a mixture which they described as appearing to them per-
fectly tasteless and clammy, they renewed their journey towards the ships,
and had not proceeded far when, notwithstanding the snoAV which was con-
stantly falling, they met with footsteps which directed them to Mr. Nias and
his party, by whom they were conducted to the ships.

The account they gave us of Mr. Fife and his two companions, led us to

M2

84.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. believe that we should find them, if still living, at a considerable distance to
the westward, and some parties were just about to set out in that direction,
when the trouble and anxiety which this mistake would have occasioned us
were prevented by the arrival of another of the searching parties, with the in-
formation that Mr. Fife and the two men were on their way to the ships, being
about five miles to the eastward. Some fresh hands were immediately sent to
bring them in, and they arrived on board at ten P.M., after an absence of
ninety-one hours, and having been exposed, during three nights, to the incle-
mency of the first wintry weather we had experienced. Almost the whole
of this party were much exhausted by cold and fatigue, and several of them
were severely frost-bitten in their toes and fingers ; but, by the skill and un-
remitted attention of our medical gentlemen, they were in a few days enabled
to return to their duty.

Before midnight we had still greater reason than ever to be thankful for
the opportune recovery of our people ; for the wind increased to a hard gale
about half-past eleven, at which time the thermometer had fallen to 15°;
making altogether so inclement a night, as it would have been impossible for
them, in their already debilitated state, to have survived. In humble gra-
titude to God for this signal act of mercy, we distinguished the headland to
the westward of the ships, by the name of Cape Providence.

Tues. 14. Soon after midnight, the land-ice which was interposed between the Hecla
and the beach, and to which the ship was partly secured, broke adrift, and
floated off the ground ; fortunately, however, we were prepared to cut the
shore hawsers, by which means we avoided the danger of being carried oif
the shore, being well secured to the little berg a-head of us, which appeared
to be firmly aground in ten fathoms’ water. The stream cable was afterwards
taken to the beach, and I determined, should the berg go adrift, to cut away
our hawsers from it ; and, having checked the ship by the stream-cable till
she swung into five fathoms, at the distance of forty or fifty yards from
the shore, to let go a bower anchor, till the wind should moderate. I com-
municated my intention to Lieutenant Liddon during the day, and directed
him, in case of necessity, rather to run the Griper on the soft beach near us,
than to risk being driven back to the eastward. Fortunately, however, it was
not necessary to resort to this measure, as the ice held fast on the ground,
notwithstanding the violence of the wind, and some sea which got up from
the westward, as the space of open water between the land and the ice
increased in that direction. At three A.M. this morning, the thermometer

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

S5

had been as low as 9°, and rose gradually to 17°, at midnight. The sudden 1819.
and unexpected decrease in the general temperature of the atmosphere about
this period was a very striking one ; and from this time, as will appear by
the Meteorological Register, the commencement of winter may fairly
be dated.

Our flag-staves were brought on board early in the morning of the 15th, Wed. 15.
and at ten A.M., the wind being somewhat more moderate, the stream-cable
was cast olF from the shore, in readiness for making sail ; but the wind
freshened up once more to a strong gale, which rendered it necessary still to
hold on by our hawsers. In the evening the stream-cable was taken on shore
again, and we landed to make observations for the variation of the needle,
which was found to be 117° 52' 22" easterly.

It was observed, for the first time, that a strong current was setting to thexhur. 16
westward during the whole of the last night, directly against a fresh gale from
that quarter. At nine A.M., the wind being much more moderate, as well
as more off the land, and the weather fine and clear, we cast off, and
made all sail to the westward, running along the land at the distance of
two or three miles from it. At a quarter before noon, we were abreast
of Cape Providence, beyond which, at the distance of three or four leagues,
another headland, still more high and bold in its appearance, was dis-
covered, and named after Mr, Hay, Private Secretary to the First Lord of the
Admiralty. At the place which we left in the morning, the ice had been
driven from the shore to the distance of six or seven miles ; but we found, as
we proceeded, that the channel became gradually more and more contracted,
till at length the ice was observed to extend, in a solid and impenetrable
body, completely in to the very shore, a little to the eastward of Cape Hay.

Our latitude, by account at noon, was 74° 23' 25", longitude 112° 29' 30".

The wind again freshened to a strong gale in the afternoon, reducing us to our
close-reefed topsails, which were as much as the ship would bear, the squalls
blowing out of the ravines with extreme violence. It became necessary,
therefore, to look out for a secure situation for the ships during the ensuing
night, which threatened to be a tempestuous one ; but no such situation pre-
sented itself in this neighbourhood ; the whole of the coast to the westward
of Cape Providence being so steep, that the heaviest ice can find no ground
to rest upon. I was therefore reduced to the disagreeable necessity of run-
ning back to the lower shore three miles and a half to the eastward of Cape
Providence, where alone the ships could, under present circumstances, be

86

VOYAGE FOE THE DISCOVERY

1819. placed in tolerable security during six or seven hours of darkness. We found
here twenty-three fathoms at three hundred yards from the shore, and had
fifteen under our stern, at the distance of one hundred and fifty yards. As it
was nearly dark before the Griper arrived, when it is difficult to secure a
ship to the ice. Lieutenant Liddon found it necessary to run into four fathoms,
at one hundred yards from the beach, and there to drop his bower anchor. At
half-past ten P.M., a large mass of ice, which had been aground near us, was
set afloat by the swell and drifted off shore. A strong westerly current,
which was still running to windward, set this ice across our stern, and
occasioned the ship to strike violently several times upon a “ tongue” pro-
jecting from it under water: the shocks exactly resembled those of a ship
striking the ground, and the rudder was forcibly lifted two or three times,
but fortunately without receiving any damage. I afterwards learned from
Lieutenant Liddon, that a great quantity of the land-ice had been drifting off
in large pieces during the night near the spot where the Griper had anchored^
keeping her crew employed for several hours in veering and heaving in cable,
in order to avoid it.

Frid. 17. At nine A.M. on the 17th, the wind being more moderate and the
weather fine, we cast off and ran along the land; but had not proceeded
far when it was perceived that the ice, in very heavy and compact floes of
more than usual dimensions, still extended close into the shore near Gape
Hay. We observed, at noon, in latitude 74° 22' 15", our longitude, by
account, being 112° 51'; and, in the afternoon, stood close in to the high
land, which here gives the island a new character, and tacked in forty-three
fathoms, at the distance of five hundred yards from the shore. Further out we
obtained no soundings ; indeed I deemed it so essential to make the most of
the day-light in examining the state of the ice to the westward, that I did not
choose to heave-to for that purpose ; but the appearance of the land, and the
soundings found in-shore, indicate a considerable depth of water on this part
of the coast.

The current which, for the last two days, had been setting to the westward,
and which could not possibly have escaped our observation, had it existed
previous to the late westerly and north-westerly gales, was here found to be
running even stronger than we had before remarked it. This was made parti-
^cularly obvious when, having reached the farthest point westward, to which we
could prudently venture to carry the ships, we were obliged to heave-to,
in order to watch for any opening that might favour our views. The ships

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

87

were at this time drifting to leeward through the water at the rate of 1819.
about a mile and a quarter an hour; in spite of which they went so fast
to the westward by the land, that Lieutenant Beechey and myself esti-
mated the current to be running at least two miles per hour in that di-
rection. I must here remark that, besides the current to which I have
now alluded, and by which the floes and other heavi/ masses of ice ap-
peared to be affected, there was, as usual in this navigation, a superficial
current also, setting the smaller pieces past the others at a much quicker
rate. In the course of this narrative, I shall have frequent occasion to remark,
how, immediately after the springing up of a breeze, such a current ge-
nerally commences running upon the surface, in the Polar seas.

Of the causes which now produced this strong westerly current, at a
time when the contrary might rather have been anticipated, it is of course not
easy, with our present limited experience of this part of the Polar Sea,
to offer any very probable conjecture ; but the impression upon our minds at
the time was, that it was perhaps caused by the re-action of the water,
which had been forced to the eastward in the early part of the late gales,
against the ice with which the sea was almost entirely covered in that
direction. Be this as it may, however, we did not fail to draw from it

one conclusion, which was favourable to the object we had in view;

namely, that the drift of so large a body of ice for days together in a
westerly direction, indicated a considerable space of open sea somewhere
in that quarter. I was, on every account, therefore, desirous to take ad-
vantage of a current which was setting us so fast in the desired direction,
and, with that view, had come to the determination to anchor the ships
to an immense field of ice, over which we could not see from the mast-
head, and of which the thickness was greater than any I had ever be-

fore seen ; by which means we were in hopes of making some progress,
notwithstanding the unfavourable appearances before us. Ere this could
be effected, however, it was perceived that the main body of the ice
was not only setting to the westward, but was also rapidly approaching
the shore ; so that it was impossible to adopt the proposed measure, with-
out incurring the serious risk of being enclosed between them. Finding that
no further progress could possibly be made at present, and the wind again
-freshening up from the westward, with heavy squalls of snow, I was once
more under the necessity of returning to the eastward till some land-ice could
be met with, to which the ships might be secured for the night. They were

88

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

Sept.

Sat. 18.

accordingly made fast in a proper birth of this kind, not far from that which
we had occupied the"preceding night, in fifteen fathoms’ water, and at a hun-
dred and fifty yards from the beach.

I entertained a hope that our people, and especially the Griper’s crew, who
were still much reduced by the effects of their late sufferings and fatigues,
would have been allowed a good night’s rest, of which they stood much in need,
in order to prepare them for fresh exertions in the morning ; but, at eight P.M.,
while it was fortunately yet light enough to see about us, it was perceived that
a large floe to the south-east had very much neared the shore since we an-
chored, rendering it necessary immediately to leave our present situation,
where there was not a single mass of grounded ice on the outside to afford
the smallest shelter to the ships. I determined, therefore, to stand back to
the eastward, and as the night was, for the first time this fortnight past, very
fine and moderate, to keep the ships under way, and to regulate our course,
in the best manner we could, by the stars. We had at this time a fine work-
ing breeze off the land, but it gradually died away towards midnight, after
which the “ young” ice began to form so rapidly on the surface of the sea, that
we could scarcely get the ships to move through the water; and at six A.M.
on the 18th, when we were within a quarter of a mile of the shore, their
way was altogether stopped. The current was still running so fast to the
westward, that we were now swept back along the land at the rate of a mile
and a quarter per hour. An attempt was, therefore, made to run a line to the
shore, but the “ young” ice had become so “ tough,” that the boats could not
succeed in getting through it, while at the same time it was much too weak to
allow of their being hauled over it, not exceeding an inch in thickness. As
the main body of the ice to the southward of us was now perceived to be in
motion towards the shore, it became essential to the safety of the ships that
they should be got in to the beach, in order to secure them, if possible, within
the land ice ; and, as the current was now rather carrying us into deeper
water, I directed the ships to be anchored, as the only means of retaining them
in their present situation till the lines could be run out to the shore. As soon
as we had anchored, a second attempt was made to effect this, but with as little
success as before, and we were very glad to get the boats on board again, the
young ice having nearly carried them away from us to the westward. As the
day advanced, however, this ice became gradually thinner and less conti-
nuous ; so that, after much unavailing labour, we at length succeeded in
getting a hawser to the beach, by watching the little openings, and taking the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

89

♦

opportunity of pushing the boats through them. All the hands which now
remained on board the Hecla were occupied in weighing the anchor, a service
which we could not possibly have' mustered strength enough to perform, but
for the cheerfulness and zeal with which the officers volunteered on this, as
on various other occasions, to man the capstan. Having at length, with much
difficulty, effected this, we were beginning to haul the ship in towards the
beach, Avhen the wind shifted to the south-west, which is rather upon this shore,
it was uncertain what change this might produce in the motion of the floes,
which seemed to be enclosing us rapidly on every side, and as the bay-ice had
now nearly disappeared, it was considered advisable to make sail upon the
ships, so as to be ready to take advantage of any alteration that might occur.

I sent to Lieutenant Liddon to desire, that, in case of the ice closing upon us,
and of his being unable to find a proper security for the Griper within the
grounded ice, he would at once run her bow upon the softest part of the
beach, so that the floes might, perhaps, force her up without much damage ;
whereas it would be attended with almost certain destruction to the ships,
should they be caught between the floes and the heavy masses of ice with which
this beach was, for the most part, lined.

By the time that we had made sail, the ice had completely surrounded us
touching the land to the eastward as well as to the westward, and leaving us
only a small pool of open water, in which we were at liberty to beat about.
To the eastward, however, we could perceive from the crow’s nest, that there
was still a considerable channel of clear water, and our only chance of getting
into it was by narrowly watching for any opening that might occur in the ice
which now opposed a formidable barrier to our escape in that direction. At
half past one P.M. it was observed that a floe, which formed the principal ob-
struction to our progress eastward, and which the current was rapidly carrying
along the shore, had at length come violently in contact with a small point of
land near us, and was now receding from it by its own re-action. We stood
, towards this opening, in order to observe it more distinctly, and I hailed the
Griper to desire Lieutenant Liddon to be in readiness to make sail, should it
appear sufficiently broad for our purpose. On approaching this spot, we found
the passage about three hundred yards wide between the land and the ice ;
and as there was no time either for deliberation or for sounding the channel,
all the studding-sails were instantly set in both ships, and we pushed through'
the opening at the distance of a hundred yards from the beach, having no less
than ten fathoms’ water.

1819.

Sept.

N

90

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. It was impossible not to consider ourselves fortunate in having escaped the
danger which had lately threatened the ships ; but another difficulty now pre-
sented itself which we had not anticipated. This was occasioned by finding
nearly the whole surface of that part of the sea, which at a distance had ap-
peared to us open, covered with a coating of young ice of sufficient thickness
to offer a considerable impediment to the ships, when sailing with a strong and
favourable breeze. To give some idea of the degree of obstruction occa-
sioned by this ice, whose thickness did not generally exceed half an inch, it
may be sufficient to state, that with such a quantity of sail as would certainly
have propelled the Hecla six miles and a half an hour, if unimpeded in this
way, she did not average more than four miles. This remark must be under-
stood to apply to ice of this kind, when of a single thickness, and in the
state in which it is naturally formed upon the surface. But, whenever, by
any pressure on either side, the sheet is broken, and the edges of one part
forced under those of another, causing them to overlay each other, the whole
thickness of the ice is of course augmented, and the impediment to a ship
becomes greater in proportion to the frequency with which this occurs.
Where this has taken place, the ice, being too thick to allow the water to
be seen through it, is distinguished by the whiteness of its appearance ; the
white ice, therefore, is to be avoided in sailing, as much as possible.

It was my intention, as usual with us of late, to sail along the shore till
we came to any land-ice calculated to afford shelter to the ships during the
night. As we ran along, however, it was soon perceived that the main body
- of the ice was very rapidly approaching the shore, at the same time that the
westerly current was still carrying in that direction ; the ships were imme-
diately hauled in-shore, to find the best security against it which circum-
stances would admit, but the bay-ice had in this place become so thickened
by the continued pressure of the floes upon it from without, that the ships
were shortly arrested in their progress, being about one mile distant from the
land. Every expedient to break the ice, usual in such cases, was resorted
to, without our being able to move the ships a single foot a-head. The floe
continued rapidly closing on the shore, forcing the ships in before it, and bring-
ing with it so much of the bay-ice, that it was needless any longer to
employ the people in attempting to break it : to anchor seemed now the
only mode we had left to avoid being driven on shore, or, what was much
more to be apprehended, being forced by the floes against the heavy ice
on the beach. We waited, therefore, till at seven P.M. we had shoaled

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

91

the water gradually from twenty-nine to nine fathoms, and then dropped the
bower-anchor. When the ship swung in-shore by the continued pressure of
the ice, we had still seven fathoms under the stern, our distance from the
beach being about forty yards. We now seemed to have got rather within
the drift of the main body of ice, which passed us to the westward at the
rate of two miles an hour ; but, at length, the point of a large field, which
had hitherto not approached the shore nearer than two or three hundred
yards, was observed to be rapidly nearing us. Immediately to the westward
of the spot where the Hecla’s anchor had been dropped, some very heavy ice,
which, for distinction’s sake, we called a berg, projected from the beach to
the distance of a hundred and fifty yards. The ships had fortunately been
forced by the ice, one on each side of this projecting point; for at eight P.M.
the field came in contact with it with a tremendous crash, piling up the
enormous fragments of ice in the most awful and terrific manner; this
seemed to break, in some degree, the force with which the ice had been
driving ; a force which may almost be considered incalculable, as we could
not see over the field in motion from our mast-head. We were at this
time within a hundred yards of the point, and had, therefore, great reason
to be thankful for having escaped being carried into a situation in which
no human power or skill could have saved the ships from instant de-
struction.

As the pressure of the bay-ice around the ship continued to increase, she
was carried gradually in towards the shore, and as nothing was now to be
expected but her being driven on the beach, I ordered the rudder to be
lifted, the sails to be furled, and the top-gallant yards to be ready for
striking. At half-past eight P.M,, the Hecla had tailed into three fathoms
and a half, about fifteen yards from the beach. The quantity of bay-ice
which was squeezed up between the ship and the shore had by this time be-
come so great, that it would easily bear the boats and the men, the former of
which were hauled over the ice to enable us to hoist them up. It seemed
also to serve the useful purpose of a fender to keep the ship off the ground,
which she did not appear to touch in any part.

In the meantime, the Griper had been carried into a situation nearly
similar to ours, on the opposite side of the berg, by which she was partly
hidden from our view. We observed her heel over very much at times, but
knowing that a very trifling pressure was with her sufficient to produce this
effect, little apprehension was entertained on that account. I subsequently

N 2

1819.

Sept.

92

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

181 9. learned from Lieutenant Liddon, that when the field of ice closed upon usj
a point of it had caught the Griper’s chain-cable, by which the anchor
was immediately started, and the vessel carried towards the shore. The
cable was dragged out so swiftly, that it could not be slipped, and, in a few
minutes, the space between the two hawse-holes was completely cut through.
The cable parted soon after, and the other anchor being let go, brought
the ship up in time to prevent her going on shore. The Griper also lost
one of her boats on this occasion, but was fortunate in sustaining no ma-
terial injury.

At nine P.M., the ice moved a few hundred yards off the land, and the
opportunity was taken to heave the Hecla into a little nook, formed by the
grounded ice, where we lay without disturbance during the night. The
officers and men were much fatigued by this day’s exertions, and I directed
the main brace to be spliced, and an extra-allowance of preserved meat to
be served.

Sun, 19. At day-light, on the 19th, the field-ice had drifted about a mile from the
land, the intermediate space being almost entirely occupied by innumerable
loose fragments cemented together by bay-ice, so as to foiin one connected
and impenetrable body. The weather was nearly calm with continued snow,
and the ice remained tolerably quiet during the day.

Men. 20. Early on the morning of the 20th, the breeze freshened up from the
N.N.E., and soon after four A.M., the ice began to open out from the
shore. It did not, however, take a direction immediately off the land,
though the wind was nearly so, for there was still a current which carried the
floes to the westward; and some of the projecting points came very near the
land. Some of these missed the Hecla by about a hundred yards; but at
half-past eight, one of them was observed to be moving directly into the bight
where the Griper was lying. In a few minutes after this, we perceived her to
heel so much, that no doubt could be entertained of her having been forced on
shore by the ice. Having sent Mr. Palmer round by land to inquire what
was her situation, I was informed that she was aground on the beach, having
only seven feet water on the inside, and the ice still continuing to press
upon her from without. I therefore consulted my officers as to the measures
it would, under these circumstances, be most prudent to adopt, and des-
patched Lieutenant Beechey round to the Griper, to explain my intentions to
Lieutenant Liddon. I proposed, if the Griper required lightening con-
siderably before she could be hove off, an operation which, in her present

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

93

situation, it would require some time to perform, to get the Hecla, as quickly
as possible, into the first place of security we could find, and then to
march all hands round to the Griper, for the purpose of getting her afloat.

Shortly after our leaving England, Lieutenant Liddon had been unfor-
tunately attacked with a severe rheumatic complaint, which confined him to
his cabin during our passage across the Atlantic, but of which he so far re-
covered, soon after our making the ice in June, as to be able constantly to
attend to his duty on deck during the rest of the summer. The harassing cir-
cumstances, however, which had attended our exertions for the last fortnight,
and the sensible change which had lately taken place in the temperature of
the atmosphere, had combined to produce a serious alteration for the worse ;
so that at the time of the Griper’s being driven on shore, he was again
reduced to a very debilitated state. On this account I proposed to him to
allow himself to be removed on board the Hecla, until the Griper should be
got afloat again. To this proposal, however, he would by no means listen,
assuring me, that he should be the last man, instead of the first, to leave
the Griper ; and he remained seated against the lee side of the deck during
the greater part of the day, giving the necessary orders.

The wind continuing strong from the northward, the ice left the shore
very rapidly in the afternoon, so that, by one P.M., there was once more a
little clear water about the ships. Before Lieutenant Beechey left the Griper,
they had been enabled to get the hand-lead down on the sea-side of the vessel,
where they found between fifteen and sixteen feet water ; and, as the tide
was now rising, we began to entertain great hopes of her coming off the
shore without difficulty or damage. Soon after noon we perceived that
she had righted considerably, and at two P.M., we were informed by tele-
graph that she was afloat, A party of our hands was sent on board to assist

in making her snug, that she might be ready for moving whenever the ice
would permit. The wind blew hard from the northward during the night,
with a good deal of snow ; and the thermometer was at 10|° at mid-
night. The Aurora Borealis was seen faintly in the S.S.W. quarter of

the heavens.

The advanced period of the season, the unpromising appearance of the
ice to the westward, and the risk to the ships with which the navigation
had been attended for some days past, naturally led me to the conclusion
that, under these circumstances, the time had arrived, when it became ab-
solutely necessary to look out for winter-quarters. Among the circumstances

94

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819, which now rendered this navigation more than usually perilous, and the
'3^!^ hope of success proportionally less, there was none which gave more rea
sonable ground for apprehension than the incredible rapidity with which the
young ice formed upon the surface of the sea, during the greater part of the
twenty-four hours. It had become evident, indeed, that it could only be
attributed to the strong winds which had lately prevailed, that the sea was
not at this time .permanently frozen over ; for, whenever the wind blew
less than a gale, that formation took place immediately, and went on with
such astonishing rapidity, that had the weather continued calm for more than
four-and-twenty hours together, it seemed to me extremely probable, that we
must have passed the winter in our present exposed and insecure situation.

From this and various other considerations, which the account of our late
proceedings will naturally suggest, I considered it a duty incumbent upon
me to call for the opinions of the senior officers of the expedition, as to the
expediency of immediately seeking a harbour, in which the ships might
securely lie during the ensuing winter. The opinions of the officers en-
tirely concurring with my own, as to the propriety of immediately resorting to
this measure, I determined, whenever the ice and the weather would allow, to
run back to the Bay of the Hecla and Griper, in which neighbourhood alone
we had any reason to believe that a suitable harbour might be found.

Tues. 21. It blew a hard gale from the northward during the night, by which means
the floes were kept at a distance from the land, and the bay-ice prevented
from forming under the lee of it. The sea to the eastward was not, how-
ever, sufficiently clear, nor the wind moderate enough during the 21st, to
allow us to move the ships. The land was now almost entirely covered with
snow, and, as we afterwards found, remained so during the winter. A few
coveys of the ptarmigan weve seen near the beach during the time that we
remained at this station.

Wed. 22. At half-past two, on the morning of the 22d, the night-signal was made to
weigh, and we began to heave at our cables ; but such was the difficulty of
raising our anchor, and of hauling in our hawsers, owing to the stifihess
of the ropes from frost, and the quantity of ice which had accumulated about
them, that it was live o’clock before the ships were under way. Our
rudder also was so choked by the ice which had formed about it, that it
could not be moved till a boat had been hauled under the stern, and the
ice beaten and cut away from it. We ran along to the eastward without any
obstruction, in a channel about five miles wide, till we were within four or

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

95

five miles of Cape Hearne, where the bay-ice, in unbroken sheets of about 1819.
one-third of an inch in thickness, began to offer considerable impediment to
our progress. We were abreast of the point at noon, and here our prospect
was rather discouraging ; the anchorage in the bay was quite free from any
obstruction, but a space of three or four miles to the north-eastward of Cape
Hearne, was completely covered with bay-ice, which made it more than pro-
bable that we should altogether be excluded from the roadstead. We entered
this ice under a press of sail, the wind blowing strong from the northward,
and found it to consist principally of that kind which, from its appearance,
is technically called “ pancake-ice,” and which, though it considerably re-
tarded our progress in beating to windward, did not offer so serious an im-
pediment as we had expected. At half-past two P.M., in swinging the
main-topsail-yard in stays, it was unfortunately carried away in the slings,
but this accident was quickly repaired by the zealous exertions of the
officers and men. As I saw that the Griper, which had dropped several
miles astern in the course of the day, could not possibly reach the anchorage
before dark, and being apprehensive that by a too anxious endeavour to
effect that object, she might become frozen up at sea during the night, I
made Lieutenant Liddon’s signal to secure his ship to the grounded ice off
Cape Hearne, which he accordingly did. Soon after the sun had set, I had
reason to entertain the same apprehension for the Hecla ; for the young ice
began, as usual, to form upon the surface of the water, and in an hour’s
time offered so considerable a resistance to the ship’s motion, though under a
press of canvass, and with a fresh breeze, as to make it doubtful for some
time whether we should reach the anchorage. We at length, however,
struck soundings with twenty-nine fathoms of line, and at eight P.M. anchored
in nine fathoms, on a muddy bottom, a little to the eastward of our situation
on the 5th.

The wind continued northerly, with a heavy fall of snow during the night. Thur. -23.
At half-past six A.M. on the 23d, there being fortunately so little bay-ice
that a boat could easily pull through it, I left the ship, accompanied by
Mr. Nias, to examine Fife’s harbour, which had been reported to me as
affording good shelter, but having a bar across its entrance. I directed
Lieutenant Beechey at the same time to get the Hecla under way, and to
anchor wherever I should lay down a buoy for that purpose. My mortification
may well be imagined at finding, on my arrival off Fife’s harbour, that it was
covered with one solid sheet of ice from six to twelve inches in thickness.

96

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

which had been entirely formed since our last visit to this place. I landed
on the west side of the harbour, and being soon after joined by a boat from
the Griper, which vessel was beating up from Cape Hearne, I was informed
by Mr. Skene, that a second bay or harbour had been seen by the officers
on the former occasion, a short distance to the westward of this. We lost no
time, therefore, in rowing there, having first laid down a buoy, near which
the Hecla was to anchor, and made the necessary signal to Lieutenant
Beechey.

In going to the westward, we passed a shoal and open bay, immediately
adjacent to the harbour which we were now about to examine, and soon after
came to a reef of rocks, in some parts nearly dry, extending about three-
quarters of a mile to the southward of a low point on the south-eastern side
of the harbour. On rounding the reef, on .which a quantity of heavy ice
was lying aground, we found that a continuous floe, four or five inches in
thickness, was formed over the whole harbour, which, in every other respect,
appeared to be fit for our purpose ; and that it would be necessary to cut a
canal of two miles in length through the ice, in order to get the ships into a
secure situation for the winter. We sounded the channel into the harbour
for about three-quarters of a mile, by making holes in the ice and dropping
the lead through, and found the depth from five to six fathoms.

Having ascertained thus far, it remained for me to sound the bar of Fife’s
harbour, and then to choose between the two places. I returned on board,
therefore, for the boats’ crews to dine, and then proceeded in execution of
this object. The entrance into Fife’s harbour is extremely narrow, which
enabled us the sooner to determine the utter impracticability of getting the
ships into it, as we found the depth on the bar to be barely twelve feet at
high water and a spring tide. I returned on board, therefore, and deter-
mined on taking the ships round the reef to the entrance of the westernmost
harbour, on the following morning. A good deal of snow fell this evening, •
and the young ice formed on the surface after sun-set.

Frid. 24. The ships weighed at six A.M. on the 24th, the wind being still at north,
and the weather moderate and fine. As soon as the Hecla was under sail, I
went a-head in a boat to sound, and to select an anchorage for the ships-
In running to the westward towards the point of the reef, we had no less
than three fathoms and three quarters ; and, by keeping farther off shore, we
might have had much deeper water, but the wind being scant, it was neces-
sary to keep well to the northward. Near the south-western point of this

i

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

97

harbour there is a remarkable block of sandstone, somewhat resembling the 1819.
roof of a house, on which the ships’ names were subsequently engraved by
Mr. Fisher, This stone is very conspicuous in coming from the eastward,
and when kept open to the southward of the grounded ice at the end of the
reef, forms a good leading mark for the channel into the harbour. Off the
end of the reef the Avater deepened to six fathoms, and the Hecla’s anchor
was dropped in eight fathoms, half a mile within the reef, and close to the
edge of the ice through which the canal was to be cut. The Griper arrived
soon after, and by half-past eight A.M. both ships were secured in the proper
position for commencing the intended operations.

As soon as our people had breakfasted I proceeded, with a small party of
men, to sound, and to mark with boarding-pikes upon the ice, the most direct
channel we could find to the anchorage ; having left directions for every other
officer and man in both ships to be employed in cutting the canal. This opera-
tion was performed by first marking out two parallel lines, distant from each
other a little more than the breadth of the larger ship. Along each of these
lines a cut was then made with an ice-saw, and others again at right angles to
them, at intervals of from ten to twenty feet ; thus dividing the ice into a
number of rectangular pieces, which it was again necessary to subdivide dia-
gonally, in order to give room for their being floated out of the canal. On
returning from the upper part of the harbour, where I had marked out what ap-
peared to be the best situation for our winter-quarters, I found that consider-
able progress had been made in cutting the canal, and in floating the pieces
out of it. To facilitate the latter part of the process, the seamen, who are
always fond of doing things in their own way, took advantage of a fresh
northerly breeze, by setting some boats’ sails upon the pieces of ice, a con-
trivance which saved both time and labour. This part of the operation,
however, was by far the most troublesome, principally on account of the
quantity of young ice Avhich formed in the canal, and especially about the
entrance, where, before sun-set, it had become so thick that a passage could
no longer be found for the detached pieces, without considerable trouble in
breaking it. At half past seven P.M. we weighed our anchors, and began to
warp up the canal, but the northerly wind blew so fresh, and the people were
so much fatigued, having been almost constantly at work for nineteen hours,
that it was midnight before we reached the termination of our first day’s labour.

While we were thus employed, about nine o’clock a vivid, flash of light was
observed, exactly like lightning. There was at the same time, and during the

o

98

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. greater part of the night, a permanent brightness in the northern quarter of
the heavens, which was probably occasioned by the Aurora Borealis. I di-
rected half a pound of fresh meat per man to be issued, as an extra allowance ;
and this was continued daily till the completion of our present undertaking.

Sat. 25, All hands were again set to work on the morning of the 25th, when it was
proposed to sink the pieces of ice, as they were cut, under the floe, instead of
floating them out, the latter mode having now become impracticable on ac-
count of the lower part of the canal, through Avhich the ships had passed,
being hard frozen during the night. To effect this, it was necessary for a
certain number of men to stand upon one end of the piece of ice which it was
intended to sink, while other parties, hauling at the same time upon ropes
attached to the opposite end, dragged the block under that part of the floe
on which the people stood. The officers of both ships took the lead in this
employ, several of them standing up to their knees in water frequently during
the day, with the thermometer generally at 12°, and never higher than 16°. At
six P.M. we began to move the ships. The Griper was made fast astern of the
Hecla, and the two ships’ companies being divided on each bank of the canal,
with ropes from the Hecla’s gangways, soon drew the ships along to the end
of our second day’s work.

Sun. 26. I should, on every account, have been glad to make this a day of rest to the
officers and men ; but the rapidity with which the ice increased in thickness,
in proportion as the general temperature of the atmosphere diminished, would
have rendered a day’s delay of serious importance. 1 ordered the work, there-
fore, to be continued at the usual time in the morning ; and such was the
spirited and cheerful manner in which this order was complied with, as well
as the skill which had now been acquired in the art of sawing and sinking
the ice, that, although the thermometer was at 6° in the morning, and rose
no higher than 9° during the day, we had completed the canal at noon, having
effected more in foun hours than on either of the two preceding days. The
whole length of this canal was four thousand and eighty-two yards, or nearly
two miles and one-third, and the average thickness of the ice was seven inches.

At half past one P.M, we began to track the ships along in the same manner
as before, and at a quarter past three we reached our winter-quarters and
hailed the event with three loud and hearty cheers from both ships’ companies.
The ships were in five fathoms’ water, a cable’s length from the beach on the
north-western side of the harbour, to which I gave the name of Winter Har-
bour ; and I called the group of islands which we had discovered in the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

99

Polar Sea New Georgia ; but having afterwards recollected that this name is 1819.
already occupied in another part of the world, I deemed it expedient to change
it to’ that of the North Georgian Islands, in honour of our gracious So-
vereign, George the Third, whose whole reign had been so eminently dis-
tinguished by the extension and improvement of geographical and nautical
knowledge, and for the prosecution of new and important discoveries in both.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of September, 1819.

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Temperature of

Sea Water at the

surface.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

+

o

30

+

o

31.5

+

33.00

+

0

31.8

inches.

29.99

inches.

29.03

inches.

29.775

N.W.

Light breezes and hazy, with small snow.

1 ^

36

31

32.79

31.4

30.31

30.05

30.212

S.W.bW.

Light airs and cloudy.

3

37

31

34.17

32.5

30.42

30.31

30.377

N.W.

Light airs and fine.

4

35

28

31.83

31.9

30.37

30.31

30.340

N.W.bN.

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

5

32

28.5

30.58

31.8

30.31

30.21

30.215

N.N.E.

Fresh breezes and cloudy, with snow.

30

25

27.96

30.2

30.18

30.14

30.155

North

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

30

25

28.42

29.8

30.12

30.10

30.110

N.N.E.

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

i ®

31

28

30.00

30.0

30.09

30.07

30.085

f A.M. N.E. >

1 P. M. S.W. 5

Light breezes and hazy.

9

32

29

30.67

30.5

30.11

30.04

30.072

S.W.

Light breezes and cloudy.

10

32

30

31.00

30.9

30.10

30.01

30.075

Round the Compass.

Light airs and hazy, with snow.

i

30

26

27.75

30.2

29.95

29.86

29.892

N.E.

Light breezes and cloudy, with snow.

12

30

28.5

29.50

30.2

29.80

29.73

29.769

S.M^

Fresh breezes and hazy, with snow.

13

29

15.5

26.08

29.2

29.62

29.41

29.537

w.s.w.

Fresh breezes and cloudy, with small snow.

14

17

9

13.79

28.3

29.77

29.57

29.710

W.b.N.

Strong gales and squally.

15

21.5

16

18.92

23.8

29 80

29.72

29.762

N.W.bW.

Fresh breezes and clear.

16

24

17

21.25

29.5

29.70

29.57

29.644

W.N.W.

Strong breezes, — squalls at times.

17

22

16.5

19.75

29.2

30.07

29.72

29.890

W.N.W.

Fresh breezes and squally.

18

29

20

23.67

29.0

30.00

29.90

29.950

N.N.W. to S.W.bW.

Light variable breezes and cloudy.

19

25

19

29.83

29.0

29.75

29.47

29.617

S.W.

Light breezes and cloudy, with snow.

20

21

10.5

17.25

29.46

29.36

29.412

N.N.E.

Strong breezes and hazy.

21

19.5

10

15.83

29.60

29.43

29.510

North

Strong gales and cloudy.

22

23

17

19.67

29.62

29.54

29.580

N.bW.

Strong breezes and squally.

23

23

20

22.08

29.80

29.66

29.742

North

Fresh breezes and cloudy, with snow.

24

24

9

20.25

30.04

29.80

29.935

N.N.W.

Moderate and cloudy, snow at times.

25

17

7

13. .58

30.14

30.04

30.100

North

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

26

8

— 1

5.00

30.19

30.17

30.175

N.N.W.

Moderate breezes and fine.

27

21

+ 5

15.00

30.14

30.04

30.092

C A. M. N.N.W. ?
\ P. M. N.N.E 5

Moderate breezes and hazy.

1 28

23

10

17.33

29.98

29.88

29.925

N.N.E.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

29

14

8

11.25

29.82

29.76

29.787

North

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

30

7

4

5.92

29.3

29.87

29.70

29.788

North

Strong breezes, with snow at times.

+ 37

— 1

+22.54

30.42

29.36

29.905

VOYAGE OF DISCOVEEY.

101

CHAPTER V.

PRECAUTIONS FOR SECURING THE SHIPS AND STORES — FOR PROMOTING
GOOD ORDER, CLEANLINESS, HEALTH, AND GOOD-HUMOUR, AMONG THE

ships' COMPANIES ESTABLISHMENT OF A THEATRE, AND OF THE

HORTH GEORGIA GAZETTE ERECTION OF AN OBSERVATORY ON SHORE

COMMENCE OUR WINTER’s AMUSEMENTS — STATE OF THE TEMPERATURE
AND VARIOUS METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA MISCELLANEOUS OCCUR-

RENCES TO THE CLOSE OF THE YEAR 1819.

Having noM^ TGRchcd the stcition, whd’Gj in 3.11 jprobRbility, \vg were 1819.
destined to remain for at least eight or nine months, during three of which
we were not to see the face of the sun, my attention was immediately, and
imperiously, called to various important duties ; many of them of a singular
nature, such as had, for the first time, devolved on any officer in His Majesty’s
navy, and might indeed be considered of rare occurrence in the whole history
of navigation. The security of the ships, and the preservation of the various
stores, were objects of immediate concern, A regular system to be adopted
for the maintenance of good order and cleanliness, as most conducive to
the health of the crews during the long, dark, and dreary winter, equally
demanded my attention.

Not a moment was lost, therefore, in the commencement of our operations.

The whole of the masts were dismantled except the lower ones, and the
Hecla’s main-top-mast, the latter being kept Added for the purpose of occa-
sionally hoisting up the electrometer-chain, to try the effect of atmospherical
electricity. The lower yards were lashed fore and aft amidships, at a suffi-
cient height to support the planks of the housing intended to be erected over
the ships, the lower ends of which rested on the gunwale ; and the whole
of this frame-work was afterwards roofed over with a cloth, composed of

109

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. wadding-tilt, with which waggons are usually covered; and thus was formed
a comfortable shelter from the snow and wind. The boats, spars, running
rigging, and sails, were removed on shore, in order to give as much room as
possible on our upper deck, to enable the people to take exercise on board,
whenever the weather should be too inclement for walking on shore. It was
absolutely necessary, also, for the preservation of our sails and ropes, all of
which were hard-frozen, that they should be kept in that state till the return
of spring; for, as it was now impossible to get them dried, owing to
the constantly low temperature of the atmosphere, they would, probably,
have soon rotted had they been kept in any part of the ships, where the
warmth would occasion them to thaw ; they were, therefore, placed with the
boats on shore, and a covering of canvass fixed over them. This covering,
however, as we afterwards found, might better have been dispensed with;
for as we had not the means of constructing a roof sufficiently tight to keep
out the fine snow which fell during the winter, it only served, by the eddy
wind which it created, to make the drift about it greater; and, I have
now no doubt that, with stores in the' state in which I have described our
sails to be, it would be better simply to lay them on some spars to keep
them off the ground, allowing the snow to cover them as it fell. For want of
experience in these matters, we also took a great deal of unnecessary trouble
in carrying the anchors over the ice to the beach, with an idea of securing
the ships to the shore at the breaking up of the ice in the spring ; a precau-
tion for which there was not the smallest occasion, and by which the cables
suffered unnecessary exposure during the winter.

As soon as the ships were secured and housed over, my undivided attention
was in the next place directed to the comfort of the officers and men, and to
the preservation of that extraordinary degree of health which we had hitherto
enjoyed in both ships, A few brief remarks on this subject by Mr. Edwards,
(to whose skill and advice, as well as humane and unremitting attention
to the few sick, on all occasions, I am much indebted,) I need make no
apology for offering, in his own words: — “ On our arrival in our winter quar-
ters, after a season sufficiently harassing both to officers and men, it was
pleasing to reflect on the excellent health they had experienced throughout.
On our passage across the Atlantic, indeed, a few ephemeral complaints,
arising from wet and cold, appeared among the men, but these were so
slight as to be scarcely worthy of notice ; and, since our arrival within the
Polar circle, a period of between two and three months, not a single medical

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

J03

case had been entered on the sick list. To this favourable account,
one exception, however, must be made in the case of Lieutenant
Liddon, who had suffered severely from an attack of rheumatism shortly
after our leaving England, from which he had not yet recovered.
With regard to accidents, we had been no less fortunate ; a few injuries from
frost, and one from a burn by gunpowder, which had not yet recovered,
but which proved only of temporary inconvenience, constituting all the cases
of this nature which had hitherto occurred. Not the slightest disposition to
scurvy, the disease most to be apprehended under our present circumstances,
had yet been evinced in either ship. In fact, the whole of the officers and
men, with the few exceptions above mentioned, might be said to exhibit
the finest aspect of health ; and it was no less gratifying to observe, that
their spirits were in perfect unison with their corporeal powers ; so that it
was impossible not to consider them as effective as at the commencement of
the voyage. Under these co-existing circumstances, combined with the
powerful preventives with which we were furnished, it was not unreasonable
to indulge in a confident hope of finding ourselves at the beginning of the
next season with our numbers undiminished, and our energies unim-
paired.”

In order to prolong this healthy state of the crews, and to promote the
comfort of all, such arrangements were made for the warmth and dryness
of the births and bed-places, as circumstances appeared to require ; and
in this respect some difficulties were to be overcome, which could not,
perhaps, have been anticipated. Soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour,
when the temperature of the atmosphere had fallen considerably below
zero of Fahrenheit, we found that the steam from the coppers, as well as
the breath and other vapour generated in the inhabited parts of the ship,
began to condense into drops upon the beams and the sides, to such a
degree as to keep them constantly wet. In order to remove this serious
evil, it was necessary to adopt such means for producing a sufficient warmth,
combined with due ventilation, as might Carry off the vapour, and thus
prevent its settling on any part of the ship. For this purpose a large stone
oven, cased with cast iron, in which all our bread was baked during the
winter, was placed on the main-hatchway, and the stove-pipe led fore and
aft on one side of the lower deck, the smoke being thus carried up the
fore-hatchway. On the opposite side of the deck, an apparatus had been at-
tached to the galley-range, for conveying a current of heated air between

1819.

October,.

104

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819.

October.

decks. This apparatus simply consisted of an iron box or air-vessel about
fifteen inches square, through which passed three pipes, of two inches
diameter, communicating from below with the external air, and uniting
above in a metal box fixed to the side of the galley-range ; to this box a
copper stove pipe was attached, and conveyed to the middle part of the lower
deck. When a fire was made under the air-vessel, the air became heated in
its passage through the three pipes, from which it was conveyed through
the stove-pipe to the men’s births. While this apparatus was in good order,
a moderate fire produced a current of air of the temperature of 87°, at the
distance of seventeen feet from the fire-place ; and, with a pipe of wood, or
any other imperfect conductor of heat, which would not allow of its escaping
by the way, it might undoubtedly be carried to a much greater distance.
By these means we were enabled to get rid of the moisture about the births
where the people messed ; but when the weather became more severely cold,
it still accumulated in the bed-places occasionally to a serious and very alarm-
ing degree. Among the means employed to prevent the injurious effects
arising from this annoyance, one of the most efficacious perhaps was a
screen made of fear-nought fixed to the beams round the galley, and dropping
within eighteen inches of the deck, which served to intercept the steam from
the coppers, and prevent it as before from curling along the beams, and con-
densing upon them into drops. This screen was especially useful at the time
of drawing off the beer, which we had lately been in the habit of brewing
from essence of malt and hops, and which continued to be served for several
weeks as a substitute for part of the usual allowance of spirits. We found
the steam arising from this process so annoying during the cold weather,
that, valuable as the beer must be considered as an antiscorbutic beverage,
it was deemed advisable to discontinue our brewery on that account. While
on this subject, I may also add that, when the weather became severely
cold, we could not get the beer to ferment, so as to make it palatable.

For the preservation of health, and as a necessary measure of economy,
a few alterations were made in the quantity and quality of the provisions
issued. I directed the allowance of bread to be permanently reduced to
two-thirds, a precaution which, perhaps, it would have been as well to have
adopted from the commencement of the voyage. A pound of Donkin’s pre-
served meat, together with one pint of vegetable or concentrated soup per
man, was substituted for one pound of salt beef weekly; a proportion of
beer and wine was served in lieu of spirits; and a small quantity of sour

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

105

krout and pickles, with as much vinegar as could be used, was issued at
regular intervals. The daily proportion of lime-juice and sugar was mixed
together, and, with a proper quantity of water, was drank by each man in
presence of an officer appointed to attend to this duty. This latter pre-
caution may appear to have been unnecessary, to those who are not aware
how much sailors resemble children in all those points in which their own
health and comfort are concerned. Whenever any game was procured, it
was directed to be invariably served in lieu of, and not in addition to,
the established allowance of other meat, except in a few extraordinary
cases, when such an indulgence was allowed ; and in no one instance,
either in quantity or quality, was the slightest preference given to the
officers.

In the article of fuel, which is of such vital importance in so severe a
climate, a system of the most rigid economy was adopted ; such a quantity of
coal only being expended as was barely sufficient for the preservation of
health on board the ships. A search was made for turf or moss immediately
after , our arrival, and a small quantity of the latter was made use of as
fuel ; but, without a previous drying, which, from the advanced period of the
season, we had no means of giving it, it was found to be too wet to produce
any saving of coals. We also looked out most anxiously for a vein of
coal on shore, but only a few lumps were picked up during our stay in
Winter Harbour^

Great attention was paid to the clothing of the men, who were put into a
certain number of divisions, according to the usual custom of the navy, each
division being under the command of an officer, who was responsible for the
personal cleanliness of the men intrusted to his charge, as well as for their
keeping their clothes at all times mended and in good condition. The men
were regularly mustered for inspection morning and evening, at which times
I always visited every part of the between-decks, accompanied by Lieut.
Beechey and Mr. Edwards ; and one day in the week was appointed for
the examination of the men’s shins and gums by the medical gentlemen,
in order that any slight appearance of the scurvy might at once be detected,
and checked by timely and adequate means.

It was my intention to have caused the bedding of the ships’ companies to
be brought on deck, for the purpose of airing, at least once a week during the
winter; but here, also, a difficulty occurred, which, without previous ex-
perience, could not perhaps have been easily anticipated. Whenever a

p

106

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. blanket was brought on deck, and sufFered to remain there for a short time.

October *

of course acquired the temperature of the atmosphere. When this hap-
pened to be rather low, under zero of Fahrenheit for instance, the im-
mediate consequence, on taking the blanket again into the inhabited
parts of the ship was, that the vapour settled and condensed upon it,
rendering it almost instantly so wet, as to be unfit to sleep on, and requiring,
therefore, after all, that it should be dried by artificial heat before it could
be returned into the bed-place. We were, therefore, under the necessity
of hanging the bedding upon lines between decks, as the only mode of
airing it; and what was likely to prove still more prejudicial, we were
obliged to have recourse to the same unhealthy measure in drying the
washed clothes.

Under circumstances of leisure and inactivity, such as we were now placed
in, and with every prospect of its continuance for a very large portion of a
year, I was desirous of finding some amusement for the men during this
long and tedious inteiwal. I proposed, therefore, to the officers to get up a
Play occasionally on board the Hecla, as the readiest means of preserving
among our crews that cheerfulness and good-humour which had hitherto
subsisted. In this proposal I was readily seconded by the officers of
both ships ; and Lieutenant Beechey having been duly elected as stage-
manager, our first performance was fixed for the 5th of November, to the
great delight of the ship’s companies. In these amusements I gladly under-
took a part myself, considering that an example of cheerfulness, by giving a
direct countenance to every thing that could contribute to it, was not the
least essential part of my duty, under the peculiar circumstances in which
we were placed.

In order still further to promote good-humour among ourselves, as well as
to furnish amusing occupation, during the hours of constant darkness, we set
on foot a weekly newspaper, which was to be called the 'North Georgia
Gazette and Winter Chronicle, and of which Captain Sabine undertook to be the
editor, under the promise that it was to be supported by original contributions
from the officers of the two ships: and, though some objection may, perhaps,
be raised against a paper of this kind being generally resorted to in ships of
war, I was too well acquainted with the discretion, as well as the excellent
dispositions of my officers, to apprehend any unpleasant consequences from a
measure of this kind ; instead of which I can safely say, that the weekly con-
tributions had the happy effect of employing the leisure hours of those who

/

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

107

furnished them, and of diverting the mind from the gloomy prospect which is 19.
would sometimes obtrude itself on the stoutest heart.

Immediately on our arrival in harbour, Captain Sabine had employed
himself in selecting a place for the observatory, which was erected in a con-
venient spot, about seven hundred yards to the westward of the ships. It
was also considered advisable immediately to set about building a house
near the beach, for the reception of the clocks and instruments. For this
purpose we made use of a quantity of fir-plank, which was intended for the
construction of spare boats, and which was so cut as not to injure it for that
purpose. The ground was so hard frozen that it required great labour to
dig holes for the upright posts which formed the support of the sides. The
walls of this house being double, with moss placed between the two, a high
temperature could, even in the severest weather which we might be doomed
to experience, be kept up in it without difficulty by a single stove.

Among the many fortunate circumstances which had attended us during
this first season of our navigation, there was none more striking than the
opportune time at which the ships were securely placed in harbour ; for on
the very night of our arrival, the 26th of September, the thermometer fell
to —1°; and, on the following day, the sea was observed from the hills
to be quite frozen over, as far as the eye could reach ; nor was any open
water seen after this period. During the first three weeks in October, how-
ever, we remarked that the young ice, near the mouth of the harbour, was
occasionally squeezed up very much by the larger floes, so that the latter
must still have had some space left, in which to acquire motion : but after
that time the sea was entirely covered with one uniform surface of solid and
motionless ice.

After our arrival in port, we saw several rein-deer, and a few coveys of
grouse ; but the country is so destitute of every thing like cover of any kind,
that our sportsmen were not successful in their hunting excursions, and we
procured only three rein-deer, previously to the migration of these and the
other animals from the island, which took place before the close of the month
of October, leaving only the wolves and foxes to bear us company during
the winter. The full-grown deer, which we killed in the autumn, gave us
from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and seventy pounds of meat
each, and a fawn weighed eighty-four pounds.

On the 1st of October, Captain Sabine’s servant having been at some dis-
tance from the ships, to examine a fox-trap, was pursued by a large white

P 2

108

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. bear, which followed his footsteps the whole way to the ships, where he was
wounded by several balls, but made his escape after all. This bear, which
Mon. 5. ^^as the only one we saw during our stay in Winter Harbour, was observed
to be more purely white than any we had before seen, the colour of these
animals being generally that of a dirtyish yellow, when contrasted with the
whiteness of the ice and snow.

On the night of the 4th, we had a strong gale from the southward, which
gave us a satisfactory proof of the security of the harbour we had chosen,
for the main ice was found in the morning to have pressed in very forcibly
upon that which was newly formed near the entrance, while within the
two points of the harbour, it remained perfectly solid and undisturbed.
Some deer being seen near the ships on the 10th, a party was despatched
after them, some of whom having wounded a stag, and being led on by the
ardour of pursuit, forgot my order that every person should be on-board
before sun-set, and did not return till late, after we had suffered much ap-
prehension on their account. I, therefore, directed that the expense of all
rockets and other signals made in such cases, should, in future, be charged
against the wages of the offending party. John Pearson, amarine belonging to
the Griper, who was the last that returned on board, had his hands severely
frost-bitten, having imprudently gone away without mittens, and with a
musket in his hand. A party of our people most providentially found him,
although the night was very dark, just as he had fallen down a steep bank
of snow, and was beginning to feel that degree of torpor and drowsi-
ness which, if indulged, inevitably proves fatal. When he was brought on
board, his fingers were quite stiff, and bent into the shape of that part of the
mukuet which he had been carrying : and the frost had so far destroyed the
animation in his fingers on one hand, that it was necessary to amputate three
of them a short time after, notwithstanding all the care and attention paid to
him by the medical gentlemen. The effect which exposure to severe frost
has, in benumbing the mental as well as the corporeal faculties, was very
striking in this man, as well as in two of the young gentlemen who returned
after dark, and of whom we were anxious to make inquiries respecting
Pearson. When I sent for them into my cabin, they looked wild, spoke
thick and indistinctly, and it was impossible to draw from them a rational
answer to any of our questions, - After being on board for a short time, the
mental faculties appeared gradually to return with the returning circulation,
and it was not till then that a looker-on could easily persuade himself that

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

109

they had not been drinking too freely. To those who have been much ac- 1819.
customed to cold countries this will be no new remark ; but I cannot help
thinking (and it is with this view that I speak of it) that many a man may have
been punished for intoxication, who was only suffering from the benumbing
effects of frost ; for I have more than once seen our people in a state so
exactly resembling that of the most stupid intoxication, that I should cer-
tainly have charged them with that offence, had I not been quite sure that
no possible means were afforded them on Melville Island, to procure
any thing stronger than snow-water. In order to guard in some measure
against the danger of persons losing their way, which was more and more to
be apprehended as the days became shorter, and the ground more covered
with snow, which gives such a dreary sameness to the country, we erected
on all the hills within two or three miles of the harbour, finger-posts pointing
towards the ships.

I have before remarked that all the water which we made use of while within
the polar circle, was procured from snow, either naturally or artificially dis-
solved. Soon after the ships were laid up for the winter, it was necessary to
have recourse entirely to the latter process, which added materially to the
expenditure of fuel during the winter months. The snow for this purpose
was dug out of the drifts, which had formed upon the ice round the ships,
and dissolved in the coppers. We found it necessary always to strain the
water thus procured, on account of the sand which the heavy snow-drifts
brought from the island, after which it was quite pure and wholesome.

On the evening of the 13th, the Aurora Borealis was seen very faintly, Wecl. 13.
consisting of a stationary white light in the south-west quarter, and near the
horizon.

On the 15th, we saw the last covey of ptarmigan which were met with Frid. i5.
this season. On the same day our people fell in with a herd of fifteen deer
to the southward; they were all lying down at first, except one large one,
probably a stag, which afterwards seemed to guard the rest in their flight,
going frequently round them, and sometimes striking them with his horns
to make them go on, which otherwise they did not seem much inclined to do.

On the 16th, it blew a strong gale from the northward, accompanied by Sat. 16.
such a constant snow-drift, that although the weather was quite clear over-
head, the boat-house, at the distance of three or four hundred yards, could
scarcely be seen from the ships. On such occasions, no person was per-
mitted on any account to leave the ships. Indeed, when this snow-drift

110

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. occurred, as it frequently did during the winter, with a hard gale, and the
thermometer very low, I believe that no human being could have remained
alive after an hour’s exposure to it. In order, therefore, to secure a com-
munication between the ships, a distance not exceeding half a cable’s length,
as well as from the ships to the house on shore, a line was kept extended,
as a guide from one to the other. About the middle of October the snow
began to fall in smaller flakes than during the summer; and soon after
this, whenever it fell, it consisted entirely of very minute spiculw, assuming
various forms of crystallization. The meridian altitude of the sun was
observed this day by an artificial horizon, which I notice from the circum-
stance of its being the last time we had an opportunity of observing it for
about four months.

17 & 18. On the 17th and 18th, our hunting parties reported that the deer were
more numerous than they had been before, whieh made us conclude, that they
were assembling their forces for an immediate departure over the ice to the
continent of America, as we only saw one or two on the island after this
time. They had been met with, since taking up our quarters, in herds of
from eight to twenty, and from forty to fifty were seen in the course of
one day. A thermometer placed in the sun at noon, on the 18th, rose only
to — 9°, the temperature in the sh,ade being — 16°.

Tues. 19. It had for some time past been a matter of serious consideration with me,
whether it would be necessary to cut the ice round the ships, which had
by this time become so firmly attached to the bends, that they were
completely imbedded in it. There happened to be only two or three persons
in the expedition, who had ever been frozen up during a whole winter
in any of the cold countries, and I consulted these as to the expediency of
doing so. This precaution, it would seem, is considered to be necessary,
from the possibility of a ship being hung by the ice attached to her bends,
and thus prevented from rising and falling with the tide; in consequence
of which, a plank might easily be torn out near the water-line, by the
weight of the ship hanging entirely on that particular part. I was re-
lieved from any apprehension on this seore, however, by knowing how small
the rise and fall of the tides were in this place ; and also by having observed
that a spring-tide caused the whole mass of ice in the harbour to detach
itself from the beach, along the whole line of which it split, and was
lifted ; so that both ships and ice rose and fell in a body with the tide. The
only question, therefore, that remained, was, whether the lateral expansion.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Ill

of the ice might not create such a pressure upon the water-line of the 1819,
ships as to do them some damage. This apprehension was rather increased
by Lieutenant Liddon’s having reported to me, that his officers had, a
night or two before, heard a loud crack about the Griper’s bends, which
gave them the idea of something straining or giving way. This noise,
however, which occurred very frequently afterwards, as the cold became
more intense, proved to be nothing more than that which is not unusually
heard in houses in cold countries, being occasioned by the freezing and
expansion of the juices contained in wood not thoroughly seasoned. To
put the matter out of all doubt, however, I deemed it prudent to order the
ice to be cut round both ships, an operation which occupied the two crews
almost the whole of two days, the ice being now twenty-three inches in
thickness ; and I determined to continue this operation daily, as long as the
weather would permit.

The 20th of October was one of the finest days which, as experience has Wed. 20.
since taught us, ever occur in this climate, the weather being clear, with little
or no wind; and, though the thermometer remained steadily between — 15°
and — 16° during the day, it was rather pleasant to our feelings than otherwise.

Our sportsmen were out from both ships the whole day, and returned, for
the first time, without having seen any living animal, though they had
walked over a very considerable extent of ground; so that the hope we had
indulged of obtaining, occasionally, a fresh meal, was now nearly at an end
for the rest of the winter. It was observed from the hills, that the ice in
the offing had been thrown into higher hummocks than before ; and in the
morning we saw a number of little vertical streams of vapour rising from
the sea, near the mouth of the harbour, which was probably that pheno-
menon vulgarly called the “ barber,” in North America, and which is oc-
casioned, I believe, by the vapour arising from the water being condensed
into a visible form by the coldness of the atmosphere. It is probable,
therefore, from the two circumstances now mentioned, that a motion had
taken place among the floes in the offing, producing first the pressure by
which the hummocks were thrown up, and then a partial separation leaving,
for a time, a small space of unfrozen surface.

Between six and eight P.M., we observed the Aurora Borealis, forming a
broad arch of irregular white light, extending from N.N.W. to S.S.E., the
centre of the arch being 10° to the eastward of the zenith. It was most
bright near the southern horizon ; and frequent, but not vivid, coruscations

i

112

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. were seen shooting from its upper side, towards the zenith. The magnetic
needle was not sensibly affected by this phenomenon.

Thur. 21. Between two and three P.M. on the 21st, the weather being still remark-
ably clear and fine, and the sun near the horizon, a parhelion strongly pris-
matic was seen on each side of it, at the distance of 23°, resembling the legs
of a rainbow resting upon the land.

Tues. 26. On the 26th, the sun afforded us sufficient light for writing and reading in
my cabin, the stern-windows exactly facing the south, from half past nine
till half past two ; for the rest of the four-and-twenty hours we lived, of
course, by candle-light. Nothing could exceed the beauty of the sky to the
south-east and south-west at sun-rise and sun-set about this period: near the
horizon there was generally a rich bluish purple, and a bright arch of deep
red above, the one mingling imperceptibly with the other. The weather
about this time was remarkably mild, the mercury in the thermometer having
stood at or above zero for more than forty-eight hours. By a register of the
temperature of the atmosphere, which was kept by Captain Sabine at the ob-
servatory, it was found that the thermometer, invariably, stood at least from
2° to 5°, and even on one or two occasions as much as 7° higher on the outside
of the ships, than it did on shore, owing probably to a warm atmosphere,
created round the former by the constant fires kept up on board.

Frid. 29. On the 29th the weather was calm and clear, and we remarked, for the first
time, that the smoke from the funnels scarcely rose at all, but skimmed nearly
horizontally along the housing, the thermometer having got down to — 24°'^,
and the mercury in the barometer standing at 29.70 inches. It now became
rather a painful experiment to touch any metallic substance in the open air
with the naked hand ; the feeling produced by it exactly resembling that oc-
casioned by the opposite extreme of intense heat, and taking off the skin
from the part affected. We found it necessary, therefore, to use great caution
in handling our sextants and other instruments, particularly the eye-pieces of
the telescopes, which, if suffered to touch the face, occasioned an intense
burning pain ; but this was easily remedied by covering them over with soft
leather. Another effect, with regard to the use of instruments, began to ap- '
pear about this time. Whenever any instrument, which had been some time

* By a Meteorological Journal in my possession, kept at York Fort, Hudson’s Bay, in
the year 1795, it appears that this phenomenon did not occur till the thermometer indi-
cated a temperature of about — 36°. The height of the barometer is not mentioned.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

113

exposed to the atmosphere, so as to be cooled down to the same temperature, 1819.
was suddenly brought below into the cabins, the vapour was instantly con-
densed all around it, so as to give the instrument the appearance of smoking,
and the glasses were Covered almost instantaneously with a thin coating of ice,
the removal of which required great caution to prevent the risk of injuring them
until it had gradually thawed, as they acquired the temperature of the cabin.

When a candle was placed in a certain direction from the instrument, with
respect to the observer, a number of very minute spiculce of snow were also
seen sparkling around the instrument, at the distance of two or three inches
from it, occasioned, as we supposed, by the cold atmosphere produced by
the low temperature of the instrument almost instantaneously congealing into
that form the vapour which floated in its immediate neighbourhood.

The month of November commenced with mild weather, which continued Novemb.
for the first ten days. It is generally supposed, by those who have not expe-
rienced the effects produced upon the feelings by the various alterations in the
temperature of the atmosphere, when the thermometer is low, that a change
of 10° or 15° makes no sensible difference in the sensation of cold ; but this is
by no means the case, for it was a remark continually made among us, that
our bodies appeared to adapt themselves so readily to the climate, that the
scale of our feelings, if I may so express it, was soon reduced to a lower stan-
dard than ordinary ; so that, after living for some days in a temperature of
— 15° or — 20°, it felt quite mild and comfortable when the thermometer rose
to zero, and vice versa.

The 4th of November being the last day that the sun would, independently Thur. 4.
of the effects of refraction, be seen above our horizon till the eighth of Fe-
bruary, an interval of ninety-six days, it was a matter of considerable regret
to us that the weather about this time was not sufficiently clear to allow us to
see and make observations on the disappearance of that luminary, in order
that something might be attempted towards deteraiining the amount of
the atmospherical refraction at a low temperature. But, though we were not
permitted to take a last farewell, for at least three months, of that cheering
orb, “ of this great world, both eye and soul,” we nevertheless felt that this
day constituted an important and memorable epoch in our voyage. We had,
some time before, set about the preparations for our winter’s amusements ;
and the theatre being ready, we opened on the 5th of November, with the Frid. 5.
representation of Miss in her Teens, which afforded to the men such a fund of
amusement as fully to justify the expectations we had formed of the utility of

Q

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on

board His Majesty^s Ship Hecla,

at Sea,

during the JVIonth of October, 1819.

Temperature of Air

1 4)

jr

Barometer.

Day

tr w fc-

Prevailing’ Winds.

Prevailing Weather..

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

O

+ 9

o

+ 6

+

o

(i.83

+

o

29.12

inches.

29.89

inches.

29.82

inches.

29.860

N.N.W.to S,

Light airs and fine.

2

17.5

9.5

12.83

28.87

29.76

29.73

29.740

S.S.E.

Light breezes and fine.

3

10

6

8.75

29.12

29.77

29.68

29.750

S.W.

Light breezes -with small snow.

4

16

5

9.83

28.02

29.59

29.17

29.390

S. Westerly

Fresh breezes and hazy with snow.

5

13

— 7

3.00

28.00

29.71

29.10

29.440

N.W.bN.

Strong breezes and cloudy.

6

8

— 8

—

1.80

28.00

29.81

29.50

29.730

Westerly

Strong breezes and hazy with snow.

7

15

0

+

6.10

28.00

29.26

29.20

29.225

S.W.

Strong breezes and hazy.

8

1

— 8.5

+

3.75

28.40

30.00

29.46

29.805

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

9

0

— 5

—

1.83

28.00

30.00

29.93

29.952

West

Moderate and cloudy.

10

5

— 3

+

1.83

28.00

29.83

29.68

29.752

S.S.W.

Moderate and fine.

11

10

+ 2

+

4.51

28.00

29.C9

29.60

29.630

West.

Moderate and hazy. •

12

+ 7

— 8

4.17

28.00

29.63

29.44

29.535

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and fine.

13

+ 16

+ 3

7.60

28.00

29.57

29.43

29.490

f Half E.S.E. ?

1 Half West. ]

Fresh breezes and hazy.

14

+ 5 .

— C

—

2.50

28.00

30.00

29.44

29.710

W.N.W.

Moderate and cloudy.

15

4 13

0

+

6.17

28.00

29.62

29.30

29.425

f Half East. 1

1 Half North. ]

Strong breezes and cloudy, with snow.

16

— 1

—12.5

—

5.20

27.50

29.91

29.49

29.742

N.bW.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

17

—10.5

—16

—

12.88

28.00

30.20

29.93

30.095

North

Moderate and fine clear weather.

18

— 2

—14

—

6.08

28.00

30.22

30.18

30.190

N.N.W,

Light breezes and fine.

19

— 7

-14

—

11.25

27.62

30.20

29.98

30.120

West.

Moderate and cloudy.

20

—13.5

—17.5

—

15.12

27.62

30.00

29.93

29.955

N.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

21

— 7

—14

—

10.58

28.00

30.21

30.00

30.100

Ditto

Ditto ditto.

22

— 3

—11

—

6.92

28.00

30.32

30.27

30.300

North

Light breezes and cloudy.

23

+ 6

— 9

+

0.12

28.00

30.13

30.03

30.070

North

Fresh breezes and hazy, with drift snow.

24

+ 1

— 6

2.83

28.25

30.08

30.01

30.045

North

Fresh breezes and hazy.

25

+ 5

+ 2

+

3.71

28.00

30.16

30.05

30.112

N.bW.

Moderate and cloudy.

26

-f* 4

— 8

—

1.08

28.40

30.11

30.06

30.090

Ditto

1

Light breezes and cloudy.

27

- 4

—15

10.25

28.12

30.02

29.87

29.955

1 North

Light breezes and fine clear weather.

28

—17

—23

19.75

28.00

29.79

29.72

29.771

; N.N.W.

1

Moderate and fine.

29

—20

—28

24.25

28.00

29.73

29.69

29.710

I N.bW.

Light breezes and fine.

30

—25

—27.5

26.15

28.00

29,73

29.70

29.717

Ditto

Ditto ditto.

31

- 4

—28

—

12.17

28.00

29.91

29.70

29.847

N.N.W.

Light airs and cloudy.

+ 17.6

-28

-

3.40

28.114

30.32

29.10

29.81

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

115

theatrical entertainments under our present circumstances, and to determine 1819.
me to follow them up at stated periods. I found, indeed, that even the occu-
pation of fitting up the theatre, and taking it to pieces again, which employed
a number of the men for a day or two before and after each performance, was
a matter of no little importance, when the immediate duties of the ship ap-
peared by no means sufficient for that purpose ; for I dreaded the want of
employment as one of the worst evils that was likely to befal us.

On the 6th we tried the temperature of the sea at the bottom, the depth Sat. 6.
being five fathoms, and found it to be 30°, whilst that of the surface was 28°,
and of the air — 16°. On the 9th, the temperature of the bottom was as high Tues. 9.
as 31°, the surface being still at 28°. The specific gravity of the surface water
was 1.0264, at the temperature of 52°, and that of the water brought from
the bottom 1.0265, at 50°. On the same evening, the weather being fine and
clear, the Aurora Borealis was seen for nearly two hours, forming a long, low,
irregular arch of light, extending from north to south in the western quarter
of the heavens, its altitude in the centre being 3° or 4°. The electrometer-
chain was hoisted up to the mast-head, and its lower end brought down to
the ice, so as to keep it perfectly clear of all the masts and rigging, which
method was used throughout the winter ; but no sensible effect was produced
on the gold-leaf It was tried a second time, after the sky became full of
white fleecy clouds, but with as little success.

On the forenoon of the 11th, the thermometer having again fallen to — 26^°, Thur. 1 1.
the smoke, as it escaped from the funnels, scarcely rose at all above the
housing. Mr. Ross, having gone to the mast-head at noon, reported that he
saw the sun. There was no time for measuring the altitude, but Lieutenant
Beechey, who went up to observe it, considered that about twenty-four mi-
nutes of its disk appeared above the horizon, according to which the amount of
refraction would appear to be 2° 09' 05 '. The temperature of the atmosphere at
this time was — 27°, and the mercury in the barometer stood at 30.07 inches.

The thermometer having fallen to — 31° on the following day, we expected to Frid. 12.
have seen the sun again, and looked out from the mast-head for that purpose, but
it did not re-appear. At six P.M. the Aurora Borealis was seen in a broken
irregular arch, about 6° high in the centre, extending from N.W. b. N. to
S. b. W., from whence a few coruscations were now and then faintly emitted
towards the zenith. From eight P.M. till midnight on the 13th, it was again Sat. i;3.
seen in a similar manner from S.W. to S.E., the brightest part being in the
centre, or due south. On the 15th, Lieutenant Beechey informed me that

116

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. he had seen, in the N.N.’W. and S.E. quarters, some light transparent clouds,
from which columns of light were thrown upwards, resembling the Aurora
Borealis ; those to the S.E., being opposed to a very light sky, had a light-brown

Tues. 16. appearance. This phenomenon was again observed on the 16th, consisting of
a bright stationary light from S.S.’W. to S. b. E.. and reaching from the horizon
to the height of about 6° above it.

About the time of the sun’s leaving us, the wolves began to approach the
ships more boldly, howling most piteously on the beach near us, sometimes
for hours together, and, on one or two occasions, coming alongside the ships,
when every thing was quiet at night ; but we seldom saw more than one
or two together, and, therefore, could form no idea of their number.
These animals were always very shy of coming near our people, and, though
evidently suffering much from hunger, never attempted to attack any of them.
The white foxes used also to visit the ships at night, and one of these (Canis
Lagopus) was caught in a trap, set under the Griper’s bows. The uneasiness
displayed by this beautiful little animal during the time of his confinement,
whenever he heard the howling of a wolf near the ships, impressed us with an
opinion, that the latter is in the habit of hunting the fox as his prey.

Wed. 17. The rapidity with which the ice formed round the ships had now become so
great, as to employ our people for several hours each day in cutting it ; and
for the last three days our utmost labour, during the time of twilight, could
scarcely keep it clear. As it was evident, therefore, that, as the frost in-
creased, we could not possibly effect this, and as the men almost always got
their feet wet in sawing the ice, from which the most injurious effects upon
their health were likely to result, I gave orders to leave off cutting it any
more during the severity of the winter. The average formation of ice round
the ships, during the time we continued to remove it, was usually from three to
five inches in twenty-four hours ; and once it froze eight inches in twenty-six
hours, the mean temperature of the atmosphere being — 12°. At noon to-day
we saw, for the first time at this hour, a star of the first magnitude (Cape//a),and
at half an hour past noon, those of the second magnitude in Ursa Major were
visible ; which circumstance will, perhaps, give the best idea of the weakness of
the sun’s light at this period. At three P.M. a remarkable variety of the Aurora
Borealis was seen by several of the officers. Having about this time been
confined for a few days to my cabin by indisposition, I am indebted to Lieu-
tenant Beechey for the following description of it : — “ Clouds of a light-
brown colour were seen, diverging from a point near the horizon bearing

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

117

S.W. b. S., and shooting pencils of rays upwards at an angle of about 45° is 19,
with the horizon. These rays, however, were not stationary as to their posi-
tion, but were occasionally extended and contracted. From behind these, as
it appeared to us, flashes of white light were repeatedly seen, which some-
times streamed across to the opposite horizon, some passing through the
zenith, others at a considerable distance on each side of it. This phenomenon
continued to display itself brilliantly for half an hour, and then became gra-
dually fainter till it disappeared, about four o’clock. The sun, at the time of
the first appearance of this meteor, was on nearly the same bearing, and about
5° below the horizon.”

The temperature of the atmosphere having, about this time, become con- Thur. 18.
siderably lower than before, the cracking of the timbers was very frequent
and loud for a time ; but generally ceased altogether in an hour or two after
this fall had taken place in the thermometer, and did not occur again at the
same temperature during the winter. The wind blowing fresh from the
northward, with a heavy snow-drift, made the ship very cold below ; so that
the breath and other vapour accumulated during the night in the bed-places
and upon the beams, and then immediately froze ; hence it often occupied all
hands for two or three hours during the day to scrape the ice away, in order
to prevent the bedding from becoming wet by the increase of temperature
occasioned by the fires. It was therefore found necessary to keep some of
the fires in between decks at night, when the thermometer was below — 15°
or — 20° in the open air, especially when the wind was high. To assist in
keeping the lower decks warm, as well as to retard, in some slight degree,
the formation of ice immediately in contact with the ships’ bends, we banked
the snow up against their sides, as high as the main-chains ; and canvass
screens were nailed round all the hatchways on the lower deck.

The stars of the second magnitude in Ursa Major were just perceptible to
the naked eye a little after noon this day, and the Aurora Borealis appeared
faintly in the south-west at night. About this time our medical gentlemen
began to remark the extreme difliculty with which sores of every kind
healed ; a circumstance that rendered it the more necessary to be cautious in
exposing the men to frost-bites, lest the long inactivity and want of exercise
during the cure of sores in other respects trifling, should produce serious
effects upon the general health of the patients.

From midnight on the 20th, till two o’clock on the following morning, the Sun. 21
thermometer rose from —46° to — 40°g, and at half-past three a gale came

118

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. on from the northward, which continued to blow, and the thermometer
gradually to rise, till the latter had reached —21° at midnight. This was
one of a great many instances which occurred during the winter, of an in-
crease of wind, from whatever quarter, being accompanied by a simultaneous
rise in the thermometer. The gale continued strong for the greater part of
the two following days, with a tremendous snow-drift, which kept us all on
board till the afternoon of the 23d. In the mean time, another play had been
prepared, and our second performance, to which the crews had been anxiously
looking forward, took place on the evening of the 24th.

The temperature of the ships’ holds, at this time, was generally from
27° to 34°, the aftermost being always the warmest, and a considerable
quantity of the beer was found frozen in the casks. The thermometer seldom
rose higher than 40° on the lower deck, throughout the day. On the 26th in
Sund.28. the morning, some vivid coruscations of the Aurora Borealis were observed
from S. to N.W.,- commencing at 4° or 5° of altitude, and streaming towards
the zenith.

Early in the afternoon of the 20th, Captain Sabine observed a small meteor
fall to the ground in the W. ])y N., not apparently more than a mile distant.
It fell slowly, with a faint white light, which increased considerably as it
approached the earth. When first seen, its height was about 8° or 10°, and
the descent appeared perpendicular, or nearly so. The atmosphere at this
time was remarkably clear. Soon after the moon rose this afternoon, it was
curiously deformed by refraction, the lower edges of its disk appearing in-
dented with deep notches, and at other times seeming to be cut olf square at
the bottom. A single ray, or rather a column of light, of the same diameter
as the moon, was also observed to descend from it to the top of the hill,
29 & 30. like a pillar supporting it. . On this and the two following nights, we were
occupied from five to seven hours in taking lunar distances in the open air,
the thermometer being from — 34° to — 36°. This we did without any ma-
terial inconvenience, as long as the weather continued calm or nearly so ; but
with a moderate breeze it soon became too painful to handle the screws of
the sextant. The ditficulty of making observations in this climate is not,
however, confined to the sensation of cold produced by handling the instru-
ments, or by standing still for several hours together at so low a temperature ;
hut it is also necessary to hold the breath very carefully during the time of
making the observation ; for if the least vapour be suffered to touch the in-
strument, it is immediately converted into a coat of ice, which dims

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

119

the glasses, and renders the instrument unserviceable till the ice has 1819.
been thawed, and the instrument thoroughly cleaned. Our sextants were
somewhat injured, in the cold weather, by the cracking of the silver on the
horizon and index glasses, arising, as we supposed, from the unequal con-
traction of the two substances. The mercury of the artificial horizons froze
into a solid mass as we were observing the moon’s altitude in it, although
the thermometer on shore indicated only — 36°. This was probably owing to
the mercury having become adulterated by admixture with the lead of the
troughs, which disposed it to congeal at a higher temperature than the
freezing point of pure mercury.

At half-past six P.M., on the 1st of December, part of a circular halo, Decemb.
whose radius was 22° 52', was observed round the moon, which was near the
full. Part of a well-defined horizontal circle of white light, passing through
the moon, extended also for several degrees on each side of her, and in the
points where this circle intersected the halo, were two prismatic spots of
light, or paraselenae. In that part of the halo which was immediately over
the moon, was another spot much brighter ; and opposite to it, in the lower
part of the circle, another similar but much more faint. About the same
time, on the following evening, two concentric circles were observed round Thur. 2.
the moon, the radius of the smaller being 38°, and of the larger 46°. Upon
the inner circle were four paraselenaB, strongly prismatic, situated with re-
spect to the moon as on the preceding day ; and there was also a faint ho-
rizontal circle of white light, passing through the moon as before. The weather
was fine in both these instances, but there was still a sort of haziness in the
atmosphere which prevented the heavenly bodies being very distinctly seen.

On the 10th, at two P.M., Captain Sabine observed a small meteor fall in Frid. lo.
the direction of N.N.W. from the ships, similar in character and appearance
to that seen on the 28th of November, except that the light was not so vivid,
and it was extinguished, instead of burning more fiercely, before it reached
the earth. About this time we were a good deal annoyed for some days
together by the thermometer continuing higher than usual, the wind being
from the E.S.E., which caused a considerable degree of dampness between
decks, in consequence of the ice thawing in every crevice where it could not
readily be removed in any other way. This annoyance could only be got rid
of by constant wiping, and by increasing the fires for the time : but, when
the thermometer fell to 15° or 20° below zero, it again became solid, and
ceased to be an inconvenience.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of November, 1819.

Temperature of Air

a>

O ■“

Barometer.

in shade.

Day

o W

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

g 5-

3 w

a>

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

o

+ 2

o

-3

0

- 1.00

4-

o

28

inches.

29.S9

inches.

29.81

inches.

29.870

f North 1

1 N.N.W. 5

Light breezes and hazy.

Moderate and hazy.

2

+ 5

0

+ 3.25

29.5

■29.90

29.81

29.865

N.N.W.

Light breezes and hazy.

3

+ 6

0

+ 3.92

30.02

29.93

29.975

N.b.W.

Do. Do.

4

+ 6

+ 5

+ 5.50

30.17

30.07

30.120

5 N.E. round by >
1 WesttoS.S.E. S

Do. Do.

5

+ 6

-7

- 0.67

29

30.30

30.21

30.272

North

Do. Do.

6

-8

-18

-14.08

28

30.32

30.27

30.208

North

Moderate and fine.

7

— 6.5

-16

-11.12

30

30.08

30.00

30.030

North

Moderate and hazy.

8

—5

-13

-10.04

29.93

29.93

29.930

North

Moderate and fine.

9

—11

-15

-12.75

28.5

29.98

29.87

29.920

N.bW.

Strong breezes and hazy, with drift snow.

10

—6.5

-15

- 9.67

30

30.07

30.00

30.047

N.b.W.

Moderate and hazy, with snow.

11

—13

-26,5

- 18.62

30.07

30.025

i0.(39

N.N.W.

Moderate breezes and fine.

12

—24

-32

-28.58

30.13

30.025

30.074

North

Light breezes and fine clear weather.

13

—24

-34

-28.50

29.5

29.95

29.86

29.920

1 N.W,

Moderate and hazy.

14

—25

-32

-26.08

29.5

29.81

29.79

29.802

S.S.E.

Light breezes and hazy.

30

29.95

29.73

29.790

Fine weather.

15

—21

-40

-30.88

i West. S

Moderate and fine clear weather.

16

—36

-42

-39.79

30.20

30.04

30.142

S.W.

Light breezes and fine.

17

—30

-40

-35.63

30.21

30.09

30.158

North.

Do. Do.

18

—34

-37

- 36.00

30.07

29.97

30.054

' N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and clear, with drift snow.

19

—38

-47

-42.92

30.20

30.12

30.165

C North, round by >

( West to S.W. 5

Light airs and fine— calm at times.

20

—40

-47

-43.71

30.14

29.96

30.057

C Half N.N.W. 1
i Half North. 5

Light breezes and fine.

21

—20

-40.5

-27.79

29.81

29.72

29.765

North.

Fresh breezes and hazy, with drift snow.

22

—21

-25

-23.00

29.72

29.72

29.720

North.

Strong gales and squally, with considerable drift.

23

-25

30.20

29.92

30.060

North.

Do. Do.

24

-15

30.11

29.83

29.982

North.

Fresh breezes and fine, with drift snow;

25

'—5

-18

-11.75

29.81

29.73

29.770

N.bW.

Moderate breezes & hazy, with light snow.

26

—20

-28

-24.79

29.70

29.67

29.690

N.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

27

—13

-28.5

-18.38

29.67

29.63

29.650

West.

Do. Do.

28

—24.5

-32

-28.29

29.80

29.68

29.750

North.

Light breezes and fine.

29

—31

-32.5

-31.92

29.75

29.72

29.740

C North. >

1 Calm. 5

Light variable airs and calms.

30

'—32

-34

-33.58

29.73

29.66

29.695

N.N.W.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

+ 6

-47

-20.60

30.32

29.63

29.945

. . _

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

121

On the 14th of December, the day was beautifully serene and clear, and 1819.
there was more redness in the southern sky about noon, than there had been
for many days before ; the tints, indeed, might almost be called prismatic. ^
At six P.M., the Aurora Borealis was seen, forming two concentric arches,
passing from the western horizon on each side of the zenith to within 20° of
the opposite horizon, resting on a dark cloud about seven degrees high, from
behind which the light appeared to issue, and partially streaming from the
cloud to the zenith. No effect was produced by it on the electrometer or the
magnetic needle. The appearance I have just described of the light seeming
to issue from behind an obscure cloud, is a very common one ; it is not always,
however, easy to tell whether any cloud really exists, or whether the appear-
ance is a deception arising from the vivid light of the Aurora being con-
trasted with the darker colour of the sky near it.

On the 17th, in the morning, this phenomenon was again observed, being Frid. 17.
a stationary faint light from S.W. to W.S.W. The breeze freshened up strong
from the eastward, and the thermometer gradually rose, as usual, till at four
P.M. it had reached zero, being the first time that it had stood so high since
the 5th of November. The water in the Hecla’s pump-well had, by this
time, become completely frozen, so that it was no longer possible to work
the pumps. In what manner the pumps could be kept free under such cir-
cumstances, if it were found necessary, I do not know, as there would have
been a risk of damaging the lower part of them, in detaching the ice
from it to make the experiment. The Hecla, however, was so tight as not
to require it ; as a proof of which it need only be mentioned, that the same
twenty inches of ice which was formed about this period, remained without
any addition for more than six months, during which time she was never
once pumped out ; and the only inconvenience that resulted from this, was
the accumulation of a small quantity of ice among the coals in the lower
part of the fore and main holds.

About this part of the winter, we began to experience a more serious in-
convenience from the bursting of the lemon-juice bottles by frost, the whole
contents being frequently frozen into a solid mass, except a small portion of
highly-concentrated acid in the centre, which, in most instances, was found
to have leaked out, so that when the ice was thawed, it was little better
than water. This evil increased to a very alarming degree in the course of the
winter : some cases being opened in which more than two-thirds of the lemon-
juice was thus destroyed, and the remainder rendered nearly inefficient. It

R

122

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. was at first supposed that this accident might have been prevented by not quite
filling the bottles, but it was afterwards found, that the corks flying out did
not save them from breaking. We observed that the greatest damage
was done in those cases which were stowed nearest to the ship’s side, and
we, therefore, . removed all the rest amidships, a precaution which, had it
been sooner known and adopted, would probably have prevented, at least,
a part of the mischief. The vinegar, also, became frozen in the casks in the
same manner, and lost a great deal of its acidity when thawed. This
circumstance conferred an additional value on a few gallons of very highly
concentrated vinegar, which had been sent out on trial, upon this and the
preceding voyage, and which, when mixed with six or seven times its own
quantity of water, was sufficiently acid for every purpose. This vinegar,
when exposed to the temperature of 25° below zero, congealed only into a
consistence like that of the thickest honey, but was never sufficiently hard to
break any vessel which contained it. There can be no doubt, therefore,
that on this account, as well as to save stowage, this kind of vinegar should
exclusively be used in these regions ; and, for similar reasons, of still greater
importance, the lemon-juice should be concentrated.

Sun. 19. On the 19th, the weather being fine and clear, the Aurora Borealis appeared
frequently at different times of the day, generally from the south to the
W.N.W. quarters, and not very vivid. From eight P.M. till midnight, how-
ever, it became more brilliant, and broke out in every part of the heavens,
being generally most bright from S.S.W. to S.W., where it had the ap-
pearance of emerging from behind a dark cloud about five degrees above the
horizon. We could not, however, help feeling some disappointment in not
having yet witnessed this beautiful phenomenon in any degree of perfection,
which could be compared to that which occurs at Shetland, or in the Atlantic,

Mon. 20. about the same latitude as these islands. On the morning of the 20th, the
Aurora Borealis again made its appearance in the N.W., which was more
to the northward than usual ; it here resembled two small bright clouds, the
one nearly touching the other, and being about seven degrees above the ho-
rizon. These remained quite stationary for half an hour, and then broke up
into streams shooting rapidly towards the zenith.

Wed. 22. We had now reached the shortest day, and such was the occupation which
we had hitherto contrived to find during the first half of our long and gloomy
winter, that the quickness with which it had come upon us was a subject
of general remark. So far, indeed, were we from wanting that occupation

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

123

of which I had been apprehensive, especially among the men, that it acci- 1819.
dentally came to my knowledge about this period, that they complained of
not having time to mend their clothes. This complaint I was as glad to hear,
as desirous to rectify ; and I therefore,^ ordered that, in future, one after-
noon in each week should be set aside for that particular purpose.

The circumstances of our situation being such as have never before oc-
curred to the crews of any of His Majesty’s ships, it may not, perhaps, be
considered wholly uninteresting, to know in what manner our time was thus
so fully occupied throughout the long and severe winter, which it was our
lot to experience, and particularly during a three months’ interval of nearly
total darkness.

The officers and quarter-masters were divided into four watches, which
were regularly kept, as at sea, while the remainder of the ship’s company
were allowed to enjoy their night’s rest undisturbed. The hands were turned
up at a quarter before six, and both decks were well rubbed with stones and
warm sand before eight o’clock, at which time, as usual at sea, both officers
and men went to breakfast. Three-quarters of an hour being allowed after break-
fast for the men to prepare themselves for muster, we then beat to divisions
punctually at a quarter past nine, when every person on board attended on the
quarter-deck, and a strict inspection of the men took place, as to their per-
sonal cleanliness, and the good condition, as well as sufficient warmth, of
their clothing. The reports of the officers having been made to me, the
people were then allowed to walk about, or, more usually, to run round the
upper deck, while I went down to examine the state of that below, accom-
panied, as I before mentioned, by Lieutenant Beechey and Mr. Edwards.

The state of this deck may be said, indeed, to have constituted the chief
source of our anxiety, and to have occupied by far the greatest share of our
attention at this period. Whenever any dampness appeared, or, what more
frequently happened, any accumulation of ice had taken place during the
preceding night, the necessary means were immediately adopted for re-
moving it ; in the former case usually by rubbing the wood with cloths, and
then directing the warm air-pipe towards the place ; and in the latter, by
scraping off the ice, so as to prevent its wetting the deck by any accidental
increase of temperature. In this respect the bed-places were particularly
troublesome ; the inner partition, or that next the ship’s side, being almost
invariably covered with more or less dampness or ice, according to the tem-
perature of the deck during the preceding night. This inconvenience might

R 2

124

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. to a great degree have been avoided, by a sufficient quantity of fuel to keep
up two good fires on the lower deck, throughout the twenty-four hours ; but
our stock of coals would by no means permit this, bearing in mind the pos-
sibility of our spending a second winter within the Arctic circle ; and this
comfort could only, therefore, be allowed on a few occasions, during the
most severe part of the winter.

In the course of my examination of the lower deck, I had always an op-
portunity of seeing those few men who were on the sick list, and of re-
ceiving from Mr. Edwards a report of their respective cases ; as also of con-
sulting that gentleman as to the means of improving the warmth, ventilation,
and general comfort of the inhabited parts of the ship. Having performed
this duty, we returned to the upper deck, where I personally inspected the
men; after which they were sent out to walk on shore when the weather would
permit, till noon, when they returned on board to their dinner. When the
day was too inclement for them to take this exercise, they were ordered to
run round and round the deck, keeping step to a tune on the organ, or, not
unfrequently, to a song of their own singing. Among the men were a
few who did not at first quite like this systematic mode of taking exercise ;
but when they found that no plea, except that of illness, was admitted as
an excuse, they not only willingly and cheerfully complied, but made it the
occasion of much humour and frolic among themselves.

The officers, who dined at two o’clock, were also in the habit of occupying
one or two hours in the middle of the day in rambling on shore, even in our
darkest period, except when a fresh wind and a heavy snow-drift confined
them within the housing of the ships. It may be well imagined that at
this period, there was but little to be met with in our walks on shore, Avhich
could cither amuse or interest us. The necessity of not exceeding the
limited distance of one or two miles, lest a snow-drift, which often rises very
• suddenly, should prevent our return, added considerably to the dull and
tedious monotony which, day after day, presented itself. To the southward
was the sea, covered with one unbroken surface of ice, uniform in its daz-
zling whiteness, except that, in some parts, a few hummocks were seen
thrown up somewhat above the general level. Nor did the land offer much
greater variety, being almost entirely covered with snow, except here and
there a brown patch of bare ground in some exposed situations, where the
wind had not allowed the snow to remain. When viewed from the summit
of the neighbouring hills, on one of those calm and clear days, which not

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

125

unfrequently occurred during the winter, the scene was such as to induce 1819.
contemplations, which had, perhaps, more of melancholy than of any other
feeling. Not an object was to be seen on which the eye could long rest with
pleasure, unless when directed to the spot where the ships lay, and where
our little colony was planted. The smoke which there issued from the
several fires, affording a certain indication of the presence of man, gave a
partial cheerfulness to this part of the prospect ; and the sound of voices
which, during the cold weather, could be heard at a much greater distance
than usual, served now and then to break the silence which reigned around
us, a silence far different from that peaceable composure which characterizes
the landscape of a cultivated country ; it was the death-like stillness of the
most dreary desolation, and the total absence of animated existence. Such,
indeed, was the want of objects to afford relief to the eye or amusement to
the mind, that a stone of more than usual size appearing above the snow, in
the direction in which we were going, immediately became a mark, on which
our eyes were unconsciously fixed, and towards which we mechanically ad-
vanced.

Dreary as such a scene must necessarily be, it could not, however, be
said to be wholly wanting in interest, especially when associated in the
mind with the peculiarity of our situation, the object which had brought
us hither, and the hopes which the least sanguine among us sometimes en-
tertained, of spending a part of our next winter in the more genial climate
of the South-Sea Islands. Perhaps, too, though none of us then ventured to
confess it, our thoughts would sometimes involuntarily wander homewards,
and institute a comparison between the rugged face of nature in this desolate
region, and the livelier aspect of the happy land which we had left behind us.

We had frequent occasion, in our walks on shore, to remark the deception
which takes place in estimating the distance and magnitude of objects, when
viewed over an unvaried surface of snoAv. It was not uncommon for us to
direct our steps towards what we took to be a large mass of stone, at the
distance of half a mile from us, but which we were able to take up in our
hands after one minute’s Avalk. This was more particularly the case, when
ascending the brow of a hill, nor did we find that the deception became
less, on account of the frequency with Avhich we experienced its effects.

In the afternoon, the men were usually occupied in drawing and knotting
yarns, and in making points and gaskets ; a never-failing resource, Avhere
mere occupation is required, and which it was necessary to perform entirely

126

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. on the lower deck, the yarns becoming so hard and brittle, when exposed
on deck to the temperature of the atmosphere, as to be too stiff for work-
ing, and very easily broken. I may in this place remark, that our lower
rigging became extremely slack during the severity of the winter, and gra-
dually tightened again as the spring returned ; effects the very reverse of
those which we had anticipated, and which I can only account for by the
extreme dryness of the atmosphere in the middle of winter, and the sub-
sequent increase of moisture.

At half-past five in the evening, the decks were cleared up, and at
six we again beat to divisions, when the same examination of the men
and of their births and bed-places took place as in the morning; the people
then went to their supper, and the officers to tea. After this time the men
were permitted to amuse themselves as they pleased, and games of
various kinds, as well as dancing and singing occasionally, went on upon
the lower deck till nine o’clock, when they went to bed, and their lights
were extinguished. In order to guard against accidents by fire, where so
many fires and lights were necessarily in use, the quarter-masters visited
the lower deck every half hour during the night, and made their report to
the officers of the watches that all was, in this respect, safe below ; and to
secure a ready supply of water in case of fire, a hole was cut twice a day in
the ice, close alongside each ship. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the
evening occupations of the officers were of a more rational kind than those
which engaged the attention of the men. Of these, reading and writing were
the principal employments, to which were occasionally added a game at
chess, or a tune on the flute or violin, till half-past ten, about which time we
all retired to rest.

Such were the employments which usually occupied us for six days in
the week, with, such exceptions only as circumstances at the time suggested.
On Sundays, divine service was invariably performed, and a sermon read
on board both ships ; the prayer appointed to be daily used at sea being
altered, so as to adapt it to the service in which we were engaged, the
success which had hitherto attended our efforts, and the peculiar circum-
stances under which we were at present placed. The attention paid by the
men to the observance of their religious duties, was such as to reflect upon
them the highest credit, and tended in no small degree to the preservation
of that regularity and good conduct, for which, with very few exceptions,
they were invariably distinguished.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

127

Our theatrical entertainments took place regularly once a fortnight, and 1819.
continued to prove a source of infinite amusement to the men. Our stock of
plays was so scanty, consisting only of one or two volumes, which happened
accidentally to be on board, that it was with difficulty we could find the
means of varying the performances sufficiently ; our authors, therefore, set
to work, and produced, as a Christmas piece, a musical entertainment, ex-
pressly adapted to our audience, and having such a reference to the service
on which we were engaged, and the success we had so far experienced, as
at once to afibrd a high degree of present recreation, and to stimulate, if
possible, the sanguine hopes which were entertained by all on board, of the
complete accomplishment of our enterprise. We were at one time ap-
prehensive, that the severity of the weather would have prevented the
continuance of this amusement, but the perseverance of the officers over-
came every difficulty ; and, perhaps for the first time since theatrical en-
tertainments were invented, more than one or two plays were performed,
on board the Hecla, with the thermometer below zero on the stage.

The North Georgia Gazette, which I have already mentioned, was a source
of great amusement, not only to the contributors, but to those who, from
diffidence of their own talents, or other reasons, could not be prevailed on
to add their mite to the little stock of literary composition, which was
weekly demanded ; for those who declined to write were not unwilling to
read, and more ready to criticise than those who wielded the pen ; but it
was that good-humoured sort of criticism that could not give offence. The
subjects handled in this paper were, of course, various, but generally ap-
plicable to our own situation. Of its merits or defects it will not be necessary
for me to say any thing here, as I find that the officers, who were chiefly
concerned in carrying it on, have agreed to print it for the entertainment of
their friends ; the publisher being at liberty, after supplying each with a
certain number of copies, to dispose of the rest.

The return of each successive day had been always very decidedly marked
by a considerable twilight for some time about noon, that on the shortest
day being sufficient to enable us to walk out very comfortably for nearly two
hours*. There was usually, in clear weather, a beautiful arch of bright

* It will, perhaps, give the best idea of the power of
the suu’s light afforded us on this day, to state, that
we could at noon read, with tolerable ease, the same
sized type, as that in which this note is printed; but
this could onlj' be done by turning the book directly
towards the south.

128

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1819. red light, overspreading the southern horizon for an hour or two before
and after noon, the light increasing, of course, in strength, as the sun ap-
proached the meridian. Short as the day now was, if indeed any part of
the twenty-four hours could properly be called by that name, the reflection of
light from the snow, aided occasionally by a bright moon, was at all times
sufficient to prevent our experiencing, even under the most unfavourable cir-
• cumstances, any thing like the gloomy night which occurs in more temperate
climates. Especial care was taken, during the time the sun was below
the horizon, to preserve the strictest regularity in the time of our meals,
and in the various occupations which engaged our attention during the day ;
and this, together with the gradual and imperceptible manner in which the
days had shortened, prevented this kind of life, so novel to us in reality,
from appearing very inconvenient, or indeed like any thing out of the common
way. It must be confessed, however, that we were not sorry to have ar-
rived, without any serious suffering, at the shortest day ; and we watched,
with no ordinary degree of pleasure, the slow approach of the returning sun.

We had generally found the ice to crack near the shore, as I have already
had occasion to observe, about the second day after the new and full moon,
in consequence of the highest tides taking place at that time ; but this was not
the case in the present lunation ; the separation of the ice from the beach not
having taken place till the 22d, or five days and eight hours after the time of
the new moon. This retardation of the tides may, perhaps, have arisen from
the circumstance of the moon and sun having both had their greatest south
declination about the usual time of the highest spring-tide. It may possibly
have been affected also by fresh gales from the eastward, which blew on the
17th and 18th.

Sat. 25. On Christmas-day the weather was raw and cold, with a considerable snow-
drift, though the wind was only moderate from the N.W. ; but the snow
which falls during the severe winter of this climate is composed of spiculje
so extremely minute, that it requires very little wind to raise and carry it
along. To mark the day in the best manner which circumstances would
permit, divine service was performed on board the ships ; and I directed
a small increase in the men’s usual proportion of fresh meat as a Christmas-
dinner, as well as an additional allowance of grog, to drink the health of
their friends in England. The officers also met at a social and friendly din-
ner, and the day passed with much of the same kind of festivity by which it
is usually distinguished at home ; and, to the credit of the men be it spoken.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

129

without any of that disorder by which it is too often observed by seamen. 1819.
A piece of English roast-beef, which formed part of the officers’ dinner, had
been on board since the preceding May, and preserved without salt during
that period, merely by the antiseptic properties of a cold atmosphere.

Between eight and nine A.M. on the 26th, the wind freshened up very
suddenly to a strong breeze from . the northward and westward, and during
that hour the thermometer rose from — 20° to — 6°. In the afternoon the
wind became moderate and variable in its direction, and the thermometer had
again fallen to — 17° at midnight, and continued to fall very gradually for the
four following days, till on the 30th it had reached — 43°, being the lowest
temperature we had yet experienced. During the whole of that interval the
weather was nearly calm, and very fine and clear, and at half past seven
A.M. on the 30th, the mercury in the barometer stood at 30.755 inches, being
the highest we had yet seen it during the voyage. The colours of the
southern sky near the horizon were observed to be remarkably prismatic at
noon on that day.

A great many frost-bites occurred about this time, principally in the men’s Thur. 30.
feet, even when they had been walking quickly on shore for exercise. On ex-
amining their boots, Mr. Edwards remarked, that the stiffness of the thick
leather, of which they were made, was such as to cramp the feet, and prevent
the circulation from going on freely, and that this alone was sufficient to
account for their feet having been frost-bitten. Being very desirous of
avoiding these accidents, which, from the increased sluggishness Avith which
the sores healed, were more and more likely to affect the general health of
the patients by long confinement, I directed a pair of canvass boots, lined
with blanketing, or some other Avoollen stuff, to be made for each man,
using raw hide as soles ; this completely answered the desired purpose, as
scarcely any frost-bites in the feet afterwards occurred, except under circum-
stances of very severe exposure.

On the 31st of December, another striking instance occurred of the Frid. 31.
simultaneous rise in the wind and the thermometer. At two A.M. the latter
stood at — 28°, but the wind freshening up to a strong breeze from the
northward and eastward, and afterwards from the S.S.E. in the course of th^
day, the thermometer gradually rose at the same time, and stood at + 5° at
midnight ; thus closing the year with milder weather than we had enjoyed
for the eight preceding weeks.

s

ABSTRACT

of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of December, 1819.

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini.

mum.

Mean.

1

O

—25

O

—34

— 30.29

inches
29. 60

inches.

29.57

inches.

29.582

Round the compass.

Light airs and fine.

2

28

36

32.96

29.60

29.52

29.570

S HalfN.N.W. ?

? Half S.b.E. 5

Ditto ditto.

3

9

23

16.04

29.46

29.40

29.430

S.b.E.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

4

26

34

31.71

29.42

29.36

29.395

W.N.W.

Moderate and hazy.

5

27

35

31.25

29.46

29.36

29.397

N.b.W.

Moderate and fine.

6

23

34

27.00

29.51

29.45

29.470

West.

Light airs and fine.

7

19

26

22.29

29.67

29.53

29.592

S.E.

Light airs and hazy.

8

15

22

19.67

29.80

29.67

29.738

E.S.E.

Moderate and clear.

9

17

21

18.83

29.89

29.83

29.867

E.b.S.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

10

18

21

19.33

29.90

29.89

29.893

East

Fresh breezes and clear.

11

4

20

11.21

29.80

29.65

29.715

E.b.S.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

12

9

20

14.42

29.74

29.67

29.700

North

Fresh breezes and clear.

13

7

14

10.96

29.92

29.79

29.865

N.W.b.N.

Light breezes and hazy.

14

7

10

8.29

30.40

30.04

30.230

5 A.M. N.W.b.W. \
i P.M. S.W. 1

Ditto ditto.

15

7

15

11.63

30.39

30.23

30.350

East. _

Moderate and hazy.

16

8

18

13.50

30.31

30.13

30.240

E.S.E.

Moderate and fine clear weather.

17

0

9

4.37

30.00

29.85

29.905

East.

Strong breezes and cloudy, with drift.

18

3

11

5.00

29.90

29.84

29.886

East.

Ditto ditto.

19

9

24

17.46

29.95

29.94

29.945

N.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

20

19

25

22,83

29.96

29.93

29.940

N.b.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

21

19

25

23.50

30.11

30.00

30.071

North

Ditto with drift.

22

27

35

31.00

30.06

30.05

30.052

N.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

23

30

37

33.83

30.10

30.03

30.060

N.W.

Ditto ditto.

24

24

34

31.17

30.01

29.71

29.842

5 Half N.W. >

1 Half N.N.W. 5

Moderate and fine.

25

23.5

30

26.04

29.69

29.59

29.648

N.W.

Ditto ditto.

26

5

34

16.21

29.35

29.10

29.226

N.W.

Fresh breezes and hazy with drift.

27

17

32

24.58

29.94

29.47

29.710

W.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

28

34

39

36.75

30.33

30.01

30.162

South.

Light breezes and fine.

29

34

40

37.38

30.71

30.40

30.562

South.

Ditto ditto.

30

30

43

38.96

30.75

30.62

30.688

North

Ditto ditto,

31

+ 6

28

7.17

30.39

29.80

30.092

f A.M. N.N.E. 1

1 P.M. East. j

Strong breezes and hazy witli drift snow.

+ 6

-43

— 21.79

30.75

29.10

29.865

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

131

CHAPTER VI.

FIRST APPEARANCE OF SCURVY THE AURORA BOREALIS AND OTHER

METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA VISITS OF THE WOLVES RE-APPEAR-
ANCE OF THE SUN — EXTREME LOW TEMPERATURE DESTRUCTION OF

THE HOUSE ON SHORE BY FIRE SEVERE FROST-BITES OCCASIONED BY

THIS ACCIDENT.

1 HE mild weather with which the new year commenced was not of long 1820.
duration; for, as the wind gradually moderated, the theimometer slowly fell
once more to the average temperature of the atmosphere at this season. The
quantity of snow which had fallen at this time was so small, that its general
depth on shore did not exceed one or two inches, except where it had
drifted into the ravines and hollows. At ten A.M., on the 1st, a halo, whose
radius was 22° 30', with three paraselense, which were very luminous, but not
tinged with the prismatic colours, was seen about the moon, similar to that
described on the 1st of December ; and on the following day the same Sun. 2.
phenomenon occurred, with the addition of a vertical stripe of white light
proceeding from the upper and lower limbs of the moon, and forming, with a
part of the horizontal circle seen before, the appearance of a cross, as shewn
in the accompanying diagram. There was also at times an arc of another

S 2

132

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. circle touching the halo, which sometimes reached almost to the zenith,
and changed the intensity of its light very frequently, not unlike the Aurora
Borealis.

I received this morning the first unpleasant report of the scurvy having
made its appearance among us : Mr. Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla,
had for some days past been complaining of pains in his legs, which
Mr. Edwards at first took to be rheumatic, but which, together with the
appearance of his gums, now left no doubt of the symptoms being scor-
butic. It is so uncommon a thing for this disease to make its first ap-
pearance among the officers, that Mr. Edwards was naturally curious to in-
quire into the cause of it ; and at length discovered that Mr. Scallon’s bedding
was in so damp a state, in consequence of the deposit of moisture in his
bed-place, which I have before mentioned, as to leave no doubt that to this
circumstance, as the immediate exciting cause, his illness might justly be
attributed. The difficulty of preventing this deposit of moisture, and the
consequent accumulation of ice, was much greater in the officers’ bed-places
than in those of the men, in consequence of the former being necessarily
placed in close contact with the ships’ sides, and forming an immediate com-
munication, as it were, with the external atmosphere ; whereas, in the latter,
there was a vacant interval of eighteen inches in width interposed between
them. To prevent, as much as possible, therefore, the injurious effects of
this evil upon the health of the officers, I appointed certain days for the
airing of their bedding by the fires, as well as for that of the ships’ companies.
Every attention was paid to Mr. Scallon’s case by the medical gentlemen,
and all our anti-scorbutics were put in requisition for his recovery: these con-
sisted prineipally of preserved vegetable soups, lemon-juice, and sugar,
pickles, preserved currants and gooseberries, and spruce-beer. I began also
about this time to raise a small quantity of mustard and cress in my cabin, in
small shallow boxes filled with mould, and placed along the stove-pipe ; by
these means, even in the severity of the winter, we could generally ensure
a crop at the end of the sixth or seventh day after sowing the seed, which,
by keeping several boxes at work, would give to two or three scorbutic
patients nearly an ounce of salad each daily, even though the necessary
economy in our coals did not allow of the fire being kept in at night. Had
this been allowable, and a proper apparatus at hand for the purpose, there is
no doubt that it might have been raised much more rapidly : and those who
are aware how perfect a specific a very small quantity of fresh vegetable sub-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

133

stance is for the scurvy, will, perhaps, agree with me in thinking that such an 1820.
apparatus would form a very valuable appendage to be applied occasionally
to the ‘.cabin-stove. The mustard and cress thus raised were neces-
sarily colourless, from the privation of light, but, as far as we could judge,
they possessed the same pungent aromatic taste as if grown under ordi-
nary, circumstances. iSo effectual were these remedies in Mr. Scallon’s case,
that, on the ninth evening from the attack, he was able to walk about on
the lower deck for some time, and he assured me that he could then “ run
a race.”

On the morning of the 4(th, a cross appeared about the moon, consisting of
vertical and horizontal rays of white light, similar to those described on the
2d, but unaccompanied by any halo. The thermometer was at — 44° in the
early part of the day; but the wind freshening to a strong breeze from the
northward, the temperature of the atmosphere was considerably raised, as
usual, the thermometer having got up to — 36" at ten P.M. The temperature
of the holds in the fore-part of the ship was now generally as low as 22°,
that of the Hecla’s lower-deck being seldom above 40°, except during the
ships’ companies meals.

The 7th of January was one of the most severe days to the feelings which Frid. 7.
we experienced during the winter, the wind being strong from the northward
Avith a heavy drift, and the thermometer continuing from — 38° to — 40°.

It is impossible to conceive any thing more inclement than such a day, when
Ave could Avith difficulty pass and repass between the two ships, and Avere
glad to keep every person closely confined on board.

At half-past five P.M., on the 8th, the Aurora Borealis was seen forming a Sat. 8.
broken and irregular arch of AAffiite light, 10° or 12° high in the centre, ex-
tending from N.b.W., round by W. to S.S.E, Avith occasional coruscations
proceeding from it toAvards the zenith. It continued thus for an hour, and
re-appeared from eight o’clock till midnight in a similar manner, making,
hoAvever, but a poor display of this beautiful phenomenon. Neither the mag-
netic needle, nor the gold-leaf of the electrometer Avere, in either instance,
in the slightest degree affected by it.

At eight A.M. on the 11th, faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis were Tues. li.
observed to dart with inconceivable rapidity across the heavens from W.N.W.
to E.S.E., from horizon to horizon, and passing about 25° to the south of the
zenith. At noon to-day, the temperature of the atmosphere had got down
to 49° below zero, being the greatest degree of cold which we had yet

134

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. experienced; but the weather being quite calm, we walked on shore for an

Janu^. without inconvenience, the sensation of cold depending much more on
the degree of wind at the time, than on the absolute temperature of the at-
mosphere, as indicated by the thermometer. In several of the accounts
given of those countries in which an intense degree of natural cold is
experienced, some effects are attributed to it which certainly did not com6
under our observation in the course of this winter. The first of these
is the dreadful sensation said to be produced on the lungs, causing them
to feel as if torn asunder, when the air is inhaled at a very low tem-
perature. No such sensation was ever experienced by us, though in going
from the cabins into the open air, and vice versa, we were constantly in the
habit for some months of undergoing a change of from 80° to 100°, and, in
several instances, 120° of temperature in less than one minute ; and what is
still more extraordinary, not a single inflammatory complaint, beyond a
slight cold which was cured by common care in a day or two, occurred
during this particular period. The second is, the vapour with which the
air of an inhabited room is charged, condensing into a shower of snow,
immediately on the opening of a door or window, communicating with
the external atmosphere. This goes much beyond any thing that we had an
opportunity of observing. What happened with us was simply this : on
the opening of the doors at the top and bottom of our hatchway ladders,
the vapour was immediately condensed by the sudden admission of the
cold air, into a visible form, exactly resembling a very thick smoke, which
settled on all the pannels of the doors and bulk-heads, and immediately
froze, by which means the latter were covered with a thick coating of
ice which it was necessary frequently to scrape off; but we never, to
my knowledge, witnessed the conversion of the vapour into snow, during
its fall.

Sat. 15. On the evening of the 15th, the atmosphere being clear and serene, we
were gratified by a sight of the only very brilliant and diversified display of
Aurora Borealis, which occurred during the whole winter ; I believe it to be
almost impossible for words to give an idea of the beauty and variety which
this magnificent phenomenon displayed ; I am at least certain, that no descrip-
tion of mine can convey an adequate conception of it, and I therefore gladly
avail myself of the following account, by Captain Sabine, which was furnished
by my request at the time for insertion in my Journal.

“ Mr. Edwards, from whom we first heard that the Aurora was visible,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

135

described it as forming a complete arch, having its legs nearly north i82o.
and south of each other, and passing a little to the eastward of the zenith.

When I went upon the ice, the arch had broken up ; towards the southern
horizon was the ordinary Aurora, such as we had lately seen on clear nights,
being a pale light, apparently issuing from behind an obscure cloud, at from
six to twelve degrees of altitude, extending more or less towards the east or
west on different nights, and at different times of the same night, having no
determined centre or point of bisection, the greater part, and even at times
the whole of the luminous appearance being sometimes to the east, and some-
times to the west of south, but rarely seen in the northern horizon, or beyond
the east and west points of the heavens. This corresponds with the Aurora
most commonly noticed in Britain, except that it is there as peculiar to the
northern as here to the southern horizon, occasionally shooting upwards in
rays and gleams of light. It was not distinguished by any unusual bril-
liancy or extent on this occasion, the splendid part of the phenomenon being
detached and apparently quite distinct.

“ The luminous arch had broken into irregular masses, streaming with
much rapidity in different directions, varying continually in shape and in-
tensity, and extending themselves from north, by the east, to south. If the
surface of the heavens be supposed to be divided by a plane passing through
the meridian, the Aurora was confined, during the time I saw it to the
eastern side of the plane, and was usually most vivid and in larger masses in
the E.S.E. than elsewhere. Mr. Parry and I noticed to each other, that
where the Aurora was very brilliant, the stars seen through it were somewhat
dimmed, though this remark is contrary to former experience.

“ The distribution of light has been described as irregular and in constant
change ; the various masses, however, seemed to have a tendency to arrange
themselves into two arches, one passing near the zenith, and a second about
midway between the zenith and horizon, both having generally a north and
south direction, but curving towards each other, so that their legs produced
would complete an ellipse; these arches were as quickly dispersed as
formed. At one time a part of the arch near the zenith was bent into con-
volutions, resembling those of a snake in motion, and undulating rapidly, an
appearance which we had not before observed. The end towards the north
was also bent like a shepherd’s crook, which is not uncommon. It is diffi-
cult to compare the light produced by an Aurora with that of the moon,
because the shadows are rendered faint and indistinct by reason of the general

136

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. diffusion of the Aurora; but I should think the effect of the one now de-
scribed, scarcely equal to that of the moon when a week old. The usual
pale light of the Aurora strongly resembles that produced by the combustion
of phosphorus ; a very slight tinge of red was noticed on this occasion, when
the Aurora was most vivid, but no other colours were visible. Soon after we
returned on board, the splendid part wholly disappeared, leaving only the
ordinary light near the horizon ; in other respects, the night remained un-
changed, but on the following day it blew a fresh gale from the north
and N.N.W.” This Aurora had the appearance of being very nearus, and we
listened attentively for the sound which is said sometimes to accompany bril-
liant displays of this phenomenon, but neither on this nor on any other oc-

Sun. 16. casion, could any be distinguished. On the following day, the Aurora was
repeatedly seen for an hour or two together, assuming the shape of a long low
arch, from 3° to 12° high in the centre, extending from south to N.W.

About this time it had been remarked, that a white setter dog belonging
to Mr. Beverly had left the Griper for several nights past at the same
time, and had regularly returned after some hours’ absence. As the day-
light increased, we had frequent opportunities of seeing him in company
with a she-wolf, with whom he kept up an almost daily intercourse for
several weeks, till at length he returned no more to the ships ; having either
lost his way by rambling to too great a distance, or what is more likely,
perhaps, been destroyed by the male wolves. Some time after, a large
dog of mine, which was also getting into the habit of occasionally remaining
absent for some time, returned on board a good deal lacerated and covered
with blood, having, no doubt, maintained a severe encounter with a male
wolf, whom we traced to a considerable distance by the tracks on the
snow. An old dog, of the Newfoundland breed, that we had on board the
Hecla, was also in the habit of remaining out with the wolves for a day
or two together ; and we frequently watched them keeping company on the
most friendly terms.

Tues. 25. A wolf, which crossed the harbour close to the ships on the 25th, was ob-
served to be almost entirely white, his body long and extremely lean, stand-
ing higher on his legs than any of the Esquimaux dogs, but otherwise much
resembling them ; his tail was long and bushy, and always hanging between
his legs, and he kept his head very low in running. It is extraordinary that
we could never succeed in killing or catching one of these animals, though
we were, for months, almost constantly endeavouring to do so.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

137

As the time was now near at hand when the sun was to re-appear above 1820.
our horizon, we began this day to look out for it from the mast-head, in order
that some observations might be made, as to the amount of the atmospherical
refraction, which might render it visible to us sooner than under ordinary cir-
cumstances. For this purpose, and at the same time to avoid the frost-bites
which might have occurred from keeping any individual at the mast-head
for too long a space, every man in the ship was sent up in succession, so as to
occupy the time for ten minutes before and after noon ; and this practice was
continued till the sun appeared above the horizon from the deck, which it
did not do till nine days after the commencement of it.

The loss of lemon-juice, of which I have before had occasion to speak, in
consequence of the breaking of the bottles by frost, continued still to take place
to so great a degree, that it now became absolutely necessary to adopt some
measures for providing against similar contingencies in future, and to pre-
serve the remainder ; I, therefore, consulted Mr. Edwards as to the propriety
of reducing the daily allowance of that essential article to three-quarters of
the usual proportion, being three-quarters of an ounce per man ; this, he was
of opinion, under all circumstances, it was expedient to do, in order to
ensure a supply in those cases of a scorbutic nature which might hereafter
occur ; and this reduction was accordingly ordered in both ships.

At half-past ten P.M., a complete halo of pale light was observed round
the moon, its radius being 22°.40, and a similar phenomenon occurred on
the following night, about the same time. These phenomena almost always Wed. 26
began to make their appearance about the time of full moon.

The weather was remarkably clear and tine on the 28th, and the sky beau-
tifully red to the southward ; but we looked for the sun from the mast-head
without success. Captain Sabine remarked at noon, that none of the tixed stars,
even of the first magnitude, could be seen by the naked eye ; Mars, however,
was plainly visible, by which some judgment may be formed of the power of
the sun’s light at this period. Towards the end of January we began to open
some of our ports, in order to admit sufficient light for the carpenters and
armourer to work by, and these were employed in repairing the main-top-
sail-yard, that we might at least make some shew of commencing our re-equip-
ment for sea.

T

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of January, 1820.

iuay

Temperature of A.ir
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Ai'axi-

iniun.

iMini-

iiinm.

Mean.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mnin.

]\rean.

1

O

—2

0

-23

o

-18.33

inches.

29.93

inches.

29.72

inches.

29.812

S.S.E.

Strong- breezes and clear weather.

2

—19

—29

—24.58

29.71

29.63

29.673

E.S.E.

Moderate and hazy weather.

3

—29

—42

—34.62

30.00

29.73

29.870

West to S.S.W.

Light variable airs.

4

—34

-44

—40.17

30.24

30.03

30.132

N. b. W.

Fresh breezes and fine clear weather.

5

—26

-35

-32.00

30.23

30.20

30.207

N.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

G

-22

-33

-28.53 1

30.16

30.09

30.119

N.N.W.

Light breezes and hazy, to fresh breezes and fine.

7

—32

-40

-37.67 1

30.10

30.03

30.068

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and fine weather.

8

—33

-38

-35.83

30.11

29.87

30.025

N.N.W.

Do. with drift snow.

0

—33

-35

-34.42

30.31

30.10

30.220

W.N.W. to S.E.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

10

—32

-43

-36.17

30.35

30.34

30.315

S.E.

Do. Do.

11

—43

-46

-44.42

30.33

30.25

30.287

C A. TNI. Calm. ?

\ P.M. N.N.W. 5

Fine weather.

P.M. Light airs and fine.

12

—42

-47

-44.71

30.24

30.10

30.168

N.N.W.

Light airs to strong breezes — fine weather.

13

—40.5

-47

-45.29

30.31

30.26

30.288

W.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

14

—32

-40

—35.08

30.20

30.18

30.193

N.b.W.

Strong breezes ; — much drift.

15

—34

-39

-35.73

30.51

30.20

30.335

East.

Light breezes and fine.

IG

—34

-39

-37.08

30.77

30.65

30.701

N.N.E.

Do. Do.

IT

—16

-34

-24.50

30.59

30.29

30.438

North.

Strong gales and hazy — heavy drift.

1

— 5

-15

- 10.25

30.25

30.15

30.202

North.

5 A.M. Strong gales with heavy drift.
i P.M. More moderate.

1 19

— 8

-28

-17.50

30.25

30.19

30.223

South to N.W.

Light variable airs and liazy weather.

20

—16

-31

-24.46

30.13

30.10

30.117

East.

Light breezes and fine.

1 21

—16

-23

-19.00

30.09

30.01

30.068

North.

5 A.M. Do. Do.

( P.M. Fresh breezes with heavy drift.

22

—22

-29

-26.00

30.15

30.06

ilO.lvOT

N.b.W.

Strong breezes with much drift.

f 23

—18

—26

-22.50

30.11

30.06

30.093

N.N.W.

Light breezes to strong breezes with heavy drift.

24

—20

—28

— 24.83

20.87

29.59

29.695

N.N.W.

Fresh gales and squally.

25

—23

-30

-26.42

29.69

29.66

29.677

North.

Moderate and fine.

26

—20

-36

-31.17

29.75

29.67

29.70!

North.

Fresh breezes to light breezes

27

—32

-36

-33.96

29.90

29.75

29.827

North.

Do. Do.

28

—35

-39

-37.23

30.14

29.94

30 055

N.b.W.

Light to strong breezes— clear weather.

29

—19

-33

-26.12

30.11

29.94

30.011

North.

Moderate and fine weather.

30

—19

-20

-19.58

29.93

29.90

29.907

North to W.N.W.

Light breezes and hazy.

31

—23

—28

—21.54

29.85

29.83

29.840

W.N.W. to East.

Light airs and hazy.

! 2

-47

-30.00

30.77

29.59

30,078

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

139

On the 1st and 2d of February the weather was rather hazy, so that the 1820.
sun could not have been seen had it been above the horizon, but the 3d
was a beautifully clear and calm day. At eight A.M., a cross, consisting Thurs. 3,
of the usual vertical and horizontal rays, was seen about the moon. At
twenty minutes before apparent noon, the sun was seen from the Hecla’s
main-top, at the height of fifty-one feet above the sea, being the first time that
this luminary had been visible to us since the 11th of November, a period of
eighty-four days, being twelve days less than the time of its remaining
actually beneath the horizon, independently of the effects of atmospherical
refraction. On ascending the main-top, I found the sun to be plainly visible
over the land to the south ; but at noon there was a dusky sort of cloud
hanging about the horizon, which prevented our seeing any thing like a
defined limb, so as to measure or estimate its altitude correctly. The sun
appeared, however, to be about half its diameter above the land, and the
top of the land was 4' 30" above the horizon of the sea, by which the
whole amount of refraction would appear to have been 1° 24' 04"; in which
there is nothing very extraordinary in this latitude and low temperature ; that
of the atmosphere at this time was — 38°, and the mercury in the barometer
stood at 29.96 inches, the smoke from the fires on board rising quite perpendi-
cularly, which was not usually the case under similar circumstances. A vertical
column of pale red light extended from the upper part of the sun’s disc to
about 3° of altitude ; its intensity was observed to be constantly varying,
being at times very bright, at others, scarcely perceptible. In these changes,
which were exceedingly rapid, it was not unlike the Aurora Borealis, the light
always appearing to shoot upwards, as is most usual in that phenomenon. The
breadth of this column, which was visible for about three-quarters of an hour
before and after noon, was equal to that of the sun’s diameter, and it was
much the brightest next the sun. A similar column of light had also been
observed by Captain Sabine, at ten A.M., immediately over the spot where
the sun was.

On several occasions, in the course of the winter, there was an appear-
ance in the southern horizon very much resembling land at a great distance.

This appearance was to-day unusually well-defined, and seemed to terminate
in a very abrupt and decided manner, on a S. b. E. bearing from Winter
Harbour.

At six P.M. the Aurora Borealis appeared very faintly in a horizontal line

T 2

140

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. of white light, extending from S. to S.S.W., and about 5° above the horizon.
From nine till eleven, it was again seen quite stationary, and very faint, from
S.S.W. to W.N.W., at three or four degrees of altitude.

Captain Sabine had, for some time past, kept one of the needles used for
determining the intensity of the magnetic force, suspended by a silk thread
in the observatory, for the purpose of remarking more satisfactorily than it
could be done on board the ships, whether any effect was produced upon it
by the Aurora Borealis. It might be supposed that, in these regions, where the
directive power of the needle had almost entirely ceased, it would be more
easily disturbed by any adventitious cause, than in those parts of the globe
where the directive energy was greater ; but we never could perceive the
slightest derangement to be produced in it by the Aurora.

Fiid. 4. On the 4th we had another sight of the sun, which was so distorted by
refraction, that nothing like a circular disk could at any time be distinguished.
At noon a thermometer, plunged into a bank of snow to the depth of two
feet, indicated the temperature of — 12°, that of the atmosphere 4»eing
— 38°. The temperature of the sea-water was 29° in the fire-hole alongside
the Hecla, and that of her holds varied from 25° to 22°, the aftermost being
progressively the warmest. There was to-day an unusual kind of mist in the
lower part of the atmosphere, which was at times so thick, that the ships
could scarcely be seen at the distance of two miles. It was a matter of
frequent remark with us, that, even on the clearest winter days of this
climate, there was usually a considerable deposit of very light snow, which
was scarcely perceptible, except when interposed between the eye and any
dark object, or by the quantity of it which settled on any instrument left to
stand in the open air ; nor do I think that the heavenly bodies were ever so
clearly visible as they are on a winter’s night in England.

Mon. 7. At noon on the 7th, we had the first clear view of the sun which we had
yet enjoyed since its re-appearance above our horizon, and an indistinct
parhelion, or mock-sun, slightly prismatic, was seen on the eastern side of
it, at the distance of 22°.

There was now sufficient day -light, from eight o’clock till four, to enable
us to perform, with great facility, any work outside the ships. I was not
sorry, therefore, to commence upon some of the occupations more immediately
connected with the equipment of the ships for sea, than those to which we
had hitherto been obliged to have recourse as mere employment. We,
therefore, began this day to collect stones for ballast, of which it was calcu-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

141

lated that the Hecla would require, in the spring, nearly seventy tons, besides 18*^0.
twenty tons of additional water, to make up for the loss of weight by the
expenditure of provisions and stores. These stones were brought down on
sledges about half a mile to the beach, where they were broken into a con-
venient size for stowage, and then weighed in scales, erected on the beach
for the purpose ; thus affording to the men a considerable quantity of bodily
exercise, whenever the weather would permit them to be so employed.

As we were now, however, approaching the coldest part of the season, it
became more essential than ever to use the utmost caution in allowing the
men to remain for any length of time in the open air, on account of the injury
to their general health, which was likely to result from the inactivity requisite
to the cure of some of the most trifling frost-bites. Mr. Edwards has favoured
me with the following brief account of such cases of this nature as occurred
on board the Hecla; — “ The majority of the men who came into the sick-list,
in consequence of frost-injuries during the severity of the -winter, suffered
mostly in their feet, and especially in their great toes ; and, although none
of them were so unfortunate as to lose a toe, yet few cures were effected
without the loss of the nail and cuticle, in which the vital power was inva-
riably destroyed. The exfoliation of these dead parts was always slow, and
often attended with small ulcerations at the extremity of the toe. The com-
paratively languid action which is always going on in the feet, oAving to their
dependent situation, and their remoteness from the centre of circulation, is
much increased by the rigour of so severe a climate, and also by the state of
inactivity in which it is necessary to keep the patient ; so that these trifling
sores were found to heal with extreme difficulty. Occasional negligence and
irregularities in the patients also served at times to protract the cure. It may
further be observed, that the ulcerations alluded to seldom took place, even
in some of the more severe cases, when circumstances would allow of timely
attention being paid to them,”

On the 8th, at noon, and for half an hour after, an appearance presented Tues. s.
itself in the heavens, which we had not before observed. A thin fleecy
cloud of a pale-red colour, and shaped like part of an arch, commenced
pretty strongly from the top of the land in the N.W., and ran more and more
faintly to N.b.W., beyond which it could no longer be traced: it was here
fifteen degrees above the northern horizon. On looking for a continuation of it
in the opposite quarter of the heavens, Ave perceived a larger portion of another
and fainter arch, of pale, red, or orange, commencing at the horizon in the

142

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. E.b.N., and extending to 60° of altitude in the N.N.E., so as evidently not
to form a part of the western arch. Captain Sabine afterwards observed
the whole phenomenon to alter its position, the leg of the eastern arch
shifting considerably more to the southward. In the evening the Aurora
Borealis was seen, forming a confused and irregular arch of white light, con-
tinually varying in brightness, about 8° high in the centre, and extending
from S.b.E., round by the west, to N.N.W. From the upper part of this arch,
coruscations occasionally shot upwards, and a few streamers now and then
burst forth also from the horizon in the S.S.E. ; these latter went nearly up
to the zenith, while the rest were more faint, and did not reach so high.
I am confident, that Aldebaran and the Pleiades were very sensibly dimmed
by the most vivid of the coruscations, which appeared, in this respect,
not to differ from any thin vapour or cloud floating in the atmosphere.
The gold leaf of the electrometer, as well as the magnetic needle suspended
in the observatory, was carefully attended to, but neither of them suf-
fered any sensible disturbance.

Wed. 9. Early on the following morning, the wind increased from the N.N.W., and
continued to blow a strong breeze from that quarter, with a heavy snow-drift,

Thur. 10. till towards noon, on the 10th. At a quarter past six P.M., on that day, the
Aurora began to appear in the south and S.W., in detached, and not very
brilliant pencils of rays darting upwards from near the horizon. Soon after,
an arch of the usual broken and irregular kind appeared in the western
quarter of the heavens, extending from N.W. to south, and being from 5°
to 8° high in the centre. From the upper part of the arch proceeded a few
faint coruscations reaching to no great height. At a quarter before seven,
a second and better-defined arch crossed over from S.E. to N.W.b.N.,
passing on the northern side of the zenith, from which it was distant from
10° to 15° in the centre. This arch was very narrow, and seemed to be
formed of two parts, each shooting with great rapidity from those parts where
the legs stood, and joining in the centre. In a short time this second arch en-
tirely disappeared, and the first became less brilliant. The phenomenon
was then for some minutes confined to some bright pencils of rays in the
south and S.S.E., which were generally parallel to each other, but sometimes
also diverged at an angle of about 15°. At a quarter past seven, two long
and narrow streams of light crossed over at 35° to 40° of altitude, on the
western side of the zenith, from the N.W.b.N., and south points of the
horizon ; their upper ends did not quite meet in the centre, so as to complete

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

143

an arch, but inclined to the shape of shepherds’ crooks, as described on I820.
the r5th of January, and often remarked by former observers ; but they
were neither so brilliant nor so Avell-defined as when we saw them before.

About a quarter before eight, as we were returning on board from the
observatory, the low arch to the westward first described, and
which had never altogether disappeared, increased considerably in bril-
liancy. It was still, however, so irregular as to appear in detached
roundish clouds or blotches, from which the pencils, which shot upwards,
appeared immediately to proceed. These pencils, which were infinitely
varied both in length and breadth, were observed to have also a slow, though
very sensible lateral motion from north to south, and vice versa ; and we
remarked on one occasion that, when two of them met, and had the ap-
pearance of overlapping, they produced, for about fifteen seconds, the
most intense degree of light we had yet seen from the Aurora. The
pencils appeared generally to travel bodily in one direction, but sometimes
to widen out in both at the same time. We were all decidedly of opinion,
that the fixed stars were very perceptibly dimmed by this phenomenon,
which gradually disappeared by nine o’clock.

It was a source of much satisfaction to find, at noon to-day, that the sun, Frid. ii
even with one degree of meridian altitude, had some power to affect the
mercury in the thermometer, which rose from — 40° to — 35° when exposed to
its rays ; and, as the sun gradually declined, it fell again to — 40° in an
hour or two.

The distance at which sounds were heard in the open air, during the
continuance of intense cold, was so great as constantly to afford matter of
surprise to us, notwithstanding the frequency with which we had occasion
to remark it. We have, for instance, often heard people distinctly conversing,
in a common tone of voice, at the distance of a mile ; and to-day I heard a man
singing to himself as he walked along the beach, at even a greater distance
than this. Another circumstance also occurred to-day, which may perhaps
be considered worthy of notice. Lieutenant Beechey, and Messrs. Beverly
and Fisher, in the course of a walk which led them to a part of the harbour,
about two miles directly to leeward of the ships, were surprised by suddenly
perceiving a smell of smoke, so strong as even to impede their breathing, till,
by walking on a little farther, they got rid of it. This circumstance shews to
what a distance the smoke from the ships was carried horizontally, owing
to the difficulty with which it rises at a very low temperature of the at-

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Febr.

Sat. 12.

Sun. 13.

Mon. 14.

lU

mosphere. The appearance which had often been taken for the loom of
distant and much refracted land in the south and S.b.E., was again seen
to-day, having the same abrupt termination at the latter bearing as before.
At half-past eight P.M,, the Aurora Borealis made its appearance for a short
time, in an arch, very irregular, but at times very bright, from S.W. to
S.S.E., at 4° or 5° above the horizon in the centre.

It may perhaps be attributed to the long absence of the sun which we
had lately experienced, and which may have disqualified us from forming
a correct judgment, that we considered the orange and lake tints with which
the sky was painted about this period, for two hours before and after noon,
to be more rich and beautiful than any thing of the kind we had ever before
seen. The few fleecy clouds which at any time make their appearance
in the heavens during the winter-months of this climate, had to-day, as before
observed on the 8th, a tendency to form arches both in the northern and
southern quarters, extending from east to west, at 10” of altitude in the
north, and 5° or 6” in the south. A thermometer placed in the sun at noon
rose quickly from — 42° to — 30|° on board, the temperature of the atmo-
sphere at the house being — 45°, and the weather calm and clear.

At three A.M., on the 13th, on a light breeze springing up from the
southward, the thermometer was observed to rise immediately from — 40° to
— 37°. For a short time before and after noon, a parhelion was seen at the
angular distance of 22° 30' on each side of the sun, at the same altitude
with the latter ; these parhelia were of a confused shape, but strongly pris-
matic. There was at the same time, also, a column of bright yellow light
proceeding from the sun to the horizon, of the same diameter as that
object.

I have before remarked, that, in consequence of a comparatively warm at-
mosphere which was always floating around the ships, the thermometer on
board, by which the temperature was noted every two hours, usually stood
from 2° to 5° higher than that fixed on shore, in consequence of which cir-
cumstance, the whole of the temperatures, in our Meteorological Journals,
may be taken at least 2° or 3° lower than those actually registered, except in
a few instances, which are there expressly noticed. The temperature of the
atmosphere having now fallen below the usual standard, it became interest-
ing to watch this diflerence more minutely, and at six A.M., on the 14th, the
theiinometer at the house was at — 52°, that on board being at — 48°, at
which time the smoke from the funnels rose very freely, with the mercury

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

145

in the barometer standing at 29.53 inches. This additional decrease in the 1820.
temperature of. the atmosphere caused a repetition of that cracking of the 3^^
ship’s timbers which had before occurred, but which had ceased for some
time past. At noon, the thermometer in the shade rose one degree, and at
two P.M., fell again to — 52°.

Two of the Hecla’s marines having been guilty of drunkenness the pre-
ceding night, an offence which, under any circumstances, it was my duty to
prevent, but which, if permitted to pass unnoticed, might, in our present
situation, have been attended with the most serious consequences to our
health as well as our discipline, I was under the necessity of punishing them
this morning with thirty-six lashes each ; being the first occasion on which I
had considered it necessary to inflict corporal punishment during thirteen
months that the Hecla had been in commission, a fact which I have much
satisfaction in recording, as extremely creditable to her crew.

From four P.M. on the 14th, till half-past seven on the following morning, Tues. 15.
being an interval of fifteen hours and a half, during which time the weather
was clear and nearly calm, a thermometer fixed on a pole, between the ships
and the shore, never rose above — 54°, and was once during that interval,
namely, at six in the morning, as low as — 55°. This low temperature might,
perhaps, have continued much longer, but for a light breeze which sprung
up from the northward, immediately on which the thermometer rose to —49°,
and continued still to rise during the day, till at midnight it had reached
— 34°. During the lowest temperature above mentioned, which was the most
intense degree of cold, marked by the spirit thermometer, during our stay in
Winter Harbour, not the slightest incoaveuieiice was suffered from exposure
to the open air, by a person well clothed, as long as the weather was per-
fectly calm ; but, in walking against a very light air of wind, a smarting
sensation was experienced all over the face, accompanied by a pain in the
middle of the forehead, which soon became rather severe. We amused our-
selves in freezing some mercury during the continuance of this cold weather,
and, by beating it out on an anvil, previously reduced to the temperature of
the atmosphere ; it did not appear to be very malleable when in this state,
usually breaking after two or three blows from the hammer.

The increased length of the day, and the cheering presence of the sun for
several hours above the horizon, induced me, notwithstanding the severity of
the weather, to open the dead-lights of my stern-windows, in order to admit
the daylight, of which, in our occupations below, we had entirely been

u

146

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. deprived for more than four months. I had soon, however, occasion to find
that this change was rather premature, and that I had not rightly calculated
on the length of the winter in Melville Island. The Hecla was fitted with
double windows in her stern, the interval between the two sashes being
about two feet; and within these some curtains of baize had been nailed
close, in the early part of the winter. On endeavouring now to remove the
curtains, they were found to be so strongly cemented to the windows by
the frozen vapour collected between them, that it was necessary to cut them
off, in order to open the windows; and from the space between the double
sashes we removed more than twelve large buckets full of ice, or frozen
vapour, which had accumulated in the same manner.

Wed. 16. About noon, on the 16th, a parhelion faintly prismatic, appeared on each
side of the sun, continuing only for half an hour. Notwithstanding the low
temperature of the external atmosphere, the officers contrived to act, as usual,
the play announced for this evening ; but, it must be confessed that it was
almost too cold for either the actors or the audience to enjoy it, especially
for those of the former who undertook to appear in female dresses. We were
fortunate, however, in having the weather moderate as to wind, during our
performance ; for, on its freshening up soon after to a strong gale from the
N.W., which, together with a heavy snow-drift, continued the whole of the

Thiir. 17. following day, the thermometer did not rise higher than — 36°; a change
that made the Hecla colder in every part below than she had ever been
before. The temperature of the lower deck now fell to + 34° for the greater
part of the day, that of the coal-hole to + 15°, of the spirit- room to + 23°, and
of my cabin, as low as + 7° during the night, by which the chronometers.
Nos. 25 and 369, of Arnold, were stopped. Much as I regretted this cir-
cumstance, it was impossible to prevent it without such an increase in
the quantity of fuel as our resources, when calculating upon the chances of
spending another winter in these regions, would by no means admit.
Captain Sabine and myself, therefore, agreed, that it was better to let
these watches remain down, during the continuance of the severe cold, which
was accordingly done.

The intense cold now experienced on board the Hecla, seems to have
arisen principally from my having prematurely uncovered the stern win-
dows, which I had been induced to do, not less from the impatience which
I felt to enjoy the cheering rays of the sun for eight hours of the
day, than on account of the saving of candles, the expenditure of which

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

147

had hitherto been much greater than we could well afford. In the constant 1820.
hope that each succeeding day would produce some amendment in the
weather, we endeavoured contentedly to put up with the cold, which, how-
ever, continued to be so intense in the cabin for several weeks after this,
that it was impossible to sit there without being warmly wrapped up ; and
it was not uncommon for us, at this period, to reverse the usual order of
things, by throwing off our great coats when we went on deck to warm our-
selves by exercise (the only mode we had of doing so), and immediately re-
suming them on coming below. On many of these occasions I have seen a
thermometer placed at our feet, standing the whole day under + 19°, and
sometimes lower, while another, suspended in the upper part of the cabin
would, at the same time, indicate 32° or 34°, but seldom higher than this. We
had, about this time, two cases of lumbago and one of diarrhoea added to
the sick list, which Mr. Edwards considered to have been brought on by the
coldness of the decks below ; in one of these cases, some scorbutic symptoms
subsequently appeared, which yielded without much difficulty to the usual
remedies. Mr. Scallon had, before this time, completely recovered. The
bed-places continuing very troublesome, from the accumulation of ice in
them, several of the men were ordered to sleep in hammocks, which arc
much more warm and comfortable ; but they had been so long accustomed to
the bed-places, that there was, in this respect, a good deal of prejudice to
overcome among them.

At half-past ten P.M. on the 19th, the Aurora Borealis was seen, as Sat. 19.
described by Lieutenant Beechey, “ in bright coruscations, shooting prin-
cipally from the S.b.W’^. quarter across the zenith to N.N.E., and partially
in every part of the heavens. The light, when most vivid, was of a pale
yellow, at other times white, excepting to the southward, in which direction
a dull red tinge was now and then perceptible. The coruscations had a
tremulous waving motion, and most of them were crooked towards the E.N.E.

The fresh gale which blew at the time from the N.N.E., appeared to have
no effect on the Aurora, which, as before observed, streamed directly to
windward, and this with great velocity. The brighter part of this meteor
dimmed whatever stars it passed over, even those of the first magnitude ;
and those of the second and third magnitude, so much as to render them
scarcely visible. The wind blew too strong for the electrometer to be used,
but Eater’s compass was not in the slightest degree affected. The whole of
the phenomenon disappeared in about three quarters of an hour.”

148

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. On the 22d, the weather was fine and clear, and though the thermometer
continued from — 34° to — 36° in the shade, and only rose to — 23|° in the

Tues. 22, P.M., the walking was unusually pleasant to our feelings. With

our present temperature, the breath of a person, at a little distance, looked
exactly like the smoke of a musket just fired, and that of a party of men
employed upon the ice to-day resembled a thick white cloud.

Thur. 24. The weather was still fine and clear overhead on the 24th, but there being
a moderate breeze from the northward which raised a little snow-drift, with
the thermometer from — 43° to — 44° during the day, it was very severe in
the open air. At a quarter past ten, while the men were running round the
decks for exercise, and were on that account fortunately well-clothed, the
house on shore was discovered to be on fire. All the officers, and men of
both ships, instantly ran up to extinguish it ; and having, by great exertion,
pulled off the roof with ropes, and knocked down a part of the sides, so as
to allow snow to be thrown upon the flames, we succeeded in getting it
under, after three quarters of an hour, and fortunately before the fire had
reached that end of the house where the two clocks, together with the transit,
and other valuable instruments, were standing in their cases. Having removed
these, and covered the ruins with snow, to prevent any remains of fire from
breaking out again, we returned on board till more temperate weather should
enable us to dig out the rest of the things, among which nothing of any
material consequence was subsequently found to have suffered injury ; and,
having mustered the ships’ companies to see that they had put on dry clothes
before going to dinner, they were employed during the rest of the day in
drying those which had been wet. The appearance which our faces pre-
sented at the fire was a curious one, almost every nose and cheek having
. become quite white with frost-bites in five minutes after being exposed to the
weather ; so that it was deemed necessary for the medical gentlemen, together
with some others appointed to assist them, to go constantly round, while the
men were working at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts affected, in
order to restore animation. Notwithstanding this precaution, which, how-
ever, saved many frost-bites, we had an addition of no less than sixteen
men to the sick-lists of both ships in consequence of this accident. Among
these there were four or five cases which kept the patients confined for
several weeks ; but John Smith, of the artillery, who was Captain Sabine’s
servant, and who, together with Serjeant Martin, happened to be in the house
at the time the fire broke out, was unfortunate enough to suffer much more

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

149

severely. In their anxiety to save the 4ipping-needle, which was standing
close to the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediately ran
out with it; and Smith, not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers
in half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so completely suspended, that,
on his being taken on board by Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged
into a basin of cold water, the surface of the water was immediately frozen
by the intense cold thus suddenly communicated to it ; and, notwithstanding
the most humane and unremitting attention paid to them by the medical gen-
tlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, to resort to the amputation
of a part of four fingers on one hand and three on the other.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of February, 1820.

Daj

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini-

mum

Mean**

1

o

-17

0

—26

— 20.87

inches

29.88

. inches

29.82

. inches.
29.850

S.b.E.

Light breezes and hazy.

2

27

38

31.75

29.92

29.88

29.902

S.E.

Ditto ditto.

3

35

44

39.58

30.01

29.92

29.963

Round the compass.

Ditto and fine clear w'eather.

4

37

44.5

39.96

30.02

29.97

30.005

N.N.W.

Light airs to fresh breezes.

5

20

37

29.12

29.89

29.75

29.817

N.N.W.

Moderate and hazy.

6

18

23

20.71

29.69

29.64

29.602

W.b.N.

Light breezes and hazy.

7

20

30

24.62

29.75

29.75

29.750

W.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

8

27

32

28.92

29.81

29.75

29.785

Round the compass.

Light airs and fine.

9

23

28

25.83

29.68

29.57

29.612

North

Fresh breezes and hazy with drift.

10

26

40

31.62

29.64

29.50

29.565

North

Strong breezes — P.M. moderate.

11

38

42

39.77

29.70

29.47

29.605

N.N.W.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

12

39

44

42.00

29.34

29.32

29.330

Calm

Fine clear weather.

13

37

46.5

41.58

29.45

29.32

29.388

North to E.S.E.

Light airs and hazy.

14

38

48

46.33

29.69

29.53

29.627

W^est.

Light winds and very fine weather.

15

32

50

40.92

29.75

29.69

29.720

North

Ditto ditto.

16

29

36

32.33

30.02

29.75

29.887

N.N.W.

Ditto and hazy weather.

17

26

39

33.42

30.08

30.04

30.053

N.N.W.

Fresh gales and heavy drift.

18

21

28

26.25

29.96

29.87

29.920 I

N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

19

19

24

21.04

29.77

29.60

29.698 j

North

Ditto ditto.

20

23

26

24.08

29.58

29.53

29.555

North

Fresh breezes with drift.

21

25

37

30.25

29.80

29.59

29.721

North

Moderate and fine.

22

34

41

36.58

29.93

29.83

29.906

East.

Light breezes and fine.

23

35

41

37.67

29.93

29.89

29.908

N.b.W.

Moderate and fine.

24

39

43

40.92

29.99

29.91

29.957

N.b.W.

Ditto ditto.

25

30

38.5

34.54

29.82

29.72

29.755

N.N.W\

Strong breezes with heavy drift.

26

20

29

26.33

29.72

29.70

29.708

N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

27

24

32

27.75

29.73

29.67

29.700

North

Fresh breezes and fine.

28

25

32

29.08

29.97

29.75

29.872

North to W.b.S.

Ditto ditto.

29

27

37

29.07

30.15

30.02

30.100

N.N.W.

Moderate and fine clear weather.

-17

50

- 32.19

30.15

29.32

29.769

Remark. — The minimum temperature for February, as taken at a distance
from the ships, was — 55^, the difference between this and the temperature
registered on board, arising from the warm atmosphere produced by the fires.

On the 14th and 15th of February, a thermometer upon the ice did not rise
above — 54® for seventeen successive hours.

151

CHAPTER VII.

MORE TEMPERATE WEATHER HOUSE RE-BUILT QUANTITY OF ICE COL-

LECTED ON THE HECLA’s LOWER DECK — METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA —
CONCLUSION OP THEATRICAL ENTERTAINMENTS — INCREASED SICKNESS
ON BOARD THE GRIPER — CLOTHES FIRST DRIED IN THE OPEN AIR —
REMARKABLE HALOS AND PARHELIA — SNOW-BLINDNESS — CUTTING THE
ICE ROUND THE SHIPS, AND OTHER OCCURRENCES TO THE CLOSE OP
MAY.

1820.

March.

Wed. 1.

Before sun-rise, on the morning of the 1st of March, Lieutenant Beechey
remarked so much bright red light near the south-eastern horizon, that he
constantly thought the sun was rising, nearly half an hour before it actually
appeared ; there was a column of light above the sun, similar to those which
we had before seen. The day being clear and moderate, a party of men was
employed in digging out the things which were buried in the ruins ; the
clocks were removed on board for examination, and preparations were made
to rebuild the house for their reception. Some of our gentlemen who walked
to the south-west during the day, observed the snow, in certain parts which
were exposed to the sun, to be glazed, so as to be very slippery, as if
a partial thaw had taken place. It is, perhaps, requisite to have expe-
rienced the anxiety with Avhich we were now beginning to look for some
favourable change in the temperature of the atmosphere, to conceive the
eagerness with which this information was received, and the importance
attached to it in our minds, as the first faint indication of the dissolution of
the winter’s snow. In the evening the wind freshened from the southward,
and before midnight had increased to a strong gale, Avhich is very unusual
from that quarter.

The thermometer rose very gradually with the wind, which blew strong for Thuvs. 2.

152

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

March.

Sat. 4.

Sun. 5.

several hours during the night, but entirely died away between eight and
nine A.M. on the 2d. At nine o’clock a parhelion appeared on each side of
the sun, at the angular distance of 21° 38', that on the eastern side being bright
and prismatic, the other indistinct at first, but becoming as clear as the other
as the sun rose higher. They were not seen after ten o’clock until half past
one P.M., when they re-appeared for a short time, at the distance of 22°.
About two P.M. a very thick kind of haze, or fog, came on, which obscured
objects at a mile’s distance, and at times much nearer. By us, who anxiously
caught at any thing which could be construed into a favourable indication,
this fog was hailed with pleasure, as a symptom of returning moisture in
the atmosphere.

On the 4th there were more clouds in the atmosphere, and they were harder
and better defined about the edges, than they had been before during the
winter ; a thermometer in the shade seemed now also to be more affected by the
general influence of the sun’s rays upon the atmosphere, rising from — 30° to

— 24° at noon. At half past eleven A.M. a halo appeared round the sun, at
the distance of 22°. 17 from it, consisting of a circle nearly complete, and
strongly prismatic. Three parhelia, or mock suns, were distinctly seen upon
this circle ; the first being directly over the sun, and one on each side of it,
at its own altitude. The prismatic tints were much more brilliant in the
parhelia than in any other part of the circle ; but red, yellow, and blue, were
the only colours which could be traced, the first of these being invariably
next the sun in all the phenomena of this kind which came under our observa-
tion. From the sun itself several rays of white light, continuous but not very
brilliant, extended in various directions beyond the halo, and these rays were
more bright after they had passed through the circle, than they were in the
part within it: this phenomenon continued for nearly two hours. The
Aurora Borealis was seen faintly near the S.S.W. horizon, for three or four
hours before midnight.

The 5th of March was the most mild and pleasant day we had experienced
for several weeks, a light breeze springing up from the southward and east-
ward, having raised the thermometer gradually from — 26° at four A.M., to

— 15° at noon; and, after divine service had been performed, almost all the
officers and men in both ships were glad to take advantage of it, by enjoying
a long walk upon the neighbouring hills. The weather had been hazy, with
light snow and some clouds in the morning; but the latter gradually dis-
persed after noon, affording us the first day to which we could attach the idea

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

153

of spring. As soon as the clouds had allowed the sun to come out, a parhelion 1820.
appeared on each side of it at the same altitude ; that to the westward, which
was seen on a thick dark cloud, being bright and prismatic ; the other, ap-
pearing on the blue sky, being scarcely perceptible. A ray of bright yellow
light extended horizontally about 3° or 4° on each side of the parhelia, and
also a stripe of prismatic colours from each of them to the horizon. Both these
were probably parts of the circles which are frequently seen to accompany
these phenomena, and at the intersection of which the parhelia usually
appear.

On the 6th, at eight A.M,, the thermometer had got up to zero, being the Mon. 6.
first time we had registered so high a temperature since the 17th of the pre-
ceding December. The wind veered gradually from S.S.E., round by west, to
north, and at night was remarkably variable and squally, frequently changing,
almost instantly, from north to west, and vice versa ; sometimes being so light
as not to extinguish a naked candle at the gangway, and at others blowing a
strong breeze. Squalls of this kind we had not observed before, nor did they
occur on any other occasion ; we could not perceive any alteration in the
thermometer while they lasted.

We continued to enjoy the same temperate and enlivening weather on Tues.7.
the 7th, and now began to flatter ourselves in earnest, that the season had
taken that favourable change for which we had so long been looking with
extreme anxiety and impatience. This hope was much strengthened by a
circumstance which occurred to-day, and which, trifling as it would have ap-
peared in any other situation than ours, was to us a matter of no small interest
and satisfaction. This was no other than the thawing of a small quantity of
snow in a favourable situation upon the black paint work of the ship’s stern,
which exactly faced the south, being the first time that such an event had oc-
curred for more than five montlis. The thermometer at this time stood at
+ 85° in the sun, but no appearance of thawing took place, except in the
situation described, and even there, upon the i/ellovo paint the snow re-
mained as hard as before. We could perceive, from the top of the north-
eastern hill of the harbour, from which we had the most extensive view
to the south and east, that a line of hummocks had been thrown up to
a considerable height upon the ice, at the distance of six or seven miles from
the land, and in a direction nearly parallel to it. It was here probably that
the junction of the old and “ young” floes had taken place in the autumn, the
space between the line of hummocks and the land being occupied by the ice

X

154

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. which this winter had produced, and by the breaking up or dissolution of
which we could alone hope to proceed on our voyage.

Advantage was taken of the present mild and pleasant weather, to rebuild the
house on shore, which was completed in a few days, when the clocks were re-
placed in it, in readiness for Captain Sabine to begin his experiments on the
pendulum, whenever the season would permit. The observations which we had
been enabled to make during the winter were principally confined to lunar dis-
tances, and to the altitudes of stars for deducing the apparent time. It was
our earnest desire to have obtained a series of observations on the zenith
distances of certain stars, in order to determine the amount of atmospherical
refraction in these latitudes during the winter season. The only instrument
in our possession, however, which was adapted to this purpose was the re-
peating circle, of which we were unfortunately precluded the use by a number
of circumstances not previously anticipated, and which indeed could not
easily have occurred to the minds of those accustomed only to make obser-
vations in more temperate climates. A particular account of these difficulties
being given in another place by Captain Sabine, whose unremitted attention
was for some time devoted to the means of overcoming them, I shall only here
mention generally, that the principal of them arose from the unequal con-
traction of the brass and iron, and from the freezing of the oil, by which the
instrument was so set fast as to make it impossible to turn it in azimuth ; also,
from the extreme contraction of the spirits, leaving no bubble by which the
level could be read. With respect to the experiments on the pendulum, it
was on every account considered advisable to wait for the return of spring,
rather than to attempt observations requiring such minuteness, and so uniform
a temperature, at a time when the very touch of instruments was painful,
and when no observation could be made in the open air, without carefully
holding the breath.

Wed. 8. The severe weather which, until the last two or three days, we had expe-
rienced for a length of time, had been the means of keeping in a solid state
all the vapour which had accumulated and frozen upon the ships’ sides on the
lower deck. As long as it continued in this state, it did not prove a source
of annoyance, especially as it had no communication with the bed-places.
On the contrary, indeed, I had imagined, whether justly or otherwise I
know not, that a lining of this kind rather did good than harm, by preventing
the escape of a certain portion of the warmth through the ships’ sides. The
late mildness of the weather, however, having caused a thaw to take place

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

155

below, it now became necessary immediately to scrape off the coating of ice ;
and it will, perhaps, be scarcely credited that we this day removed above one
hundred buckets full, each containing from five to six gallons, being the
accumulation which had taken place in an interval of less than four weeks.
It may be observed, that this vapour must principally have been produced
from the men’s breath, and from the steam of their victuals during meals, that
from the coppers being effectually carried on deck by the screen which I have
before mentioned.

James Richardson, a seaman of the Hecla, one of the men who had
been attacked by lumbago a short time before, now evinced some symptoms
of scurvy, and was, therefore, immediately put on the anti-scorbutic diet.
About this time, also, John Ludlow, boatswain’s-mate of the Griper, and
William Wright, seaman of the Hecla, were attacked in a similar manner ; and
these two cases subsequently proved the worst of this nature on board the ships.
Immediately on the appearance of any complaint among the men, and especially
when the symptoms were in the slightest degree scorbutic, the patients were
removed to the sick-bay, where the bed-places were larger and more conve-
nient, and where a separate stove was fixed when necessary, so as to make it
a warm and comfortable place, apart from the rest of the ships’ company.

From ten till eleven A.M. this day, a halo and three parhelia were seen
about the sun, in every respect similar to those described on the 4th. About
one P.M., there being a fresh breeze from the northward, with some snow-
drift, the parhelia re-appeared, being much more bright and prismatic than
in the forenoon, and accompanied by the usual halo, which was nearly com-
plete, and whose radius measured 22^°. The parhelia a, a, in the annexed
figure, on each side of the sun, were at times so bright as to be painful to
the eye in looking steadfastly at them. When they were brightest, the light
was nearly white, and this generally occurred when the wind was most mo-
derate, and when there was consequently less snow-drift. When, on the
other hand, the wind and drift increased, they became of a deeper tint, but the
red and a pale yellow were the only distinguishable colours, the former being
as usual, next the sun. These parhelia were much better resemblances of the
sun than any we had seen before, being smaller, more compact and circular,
and better defined about their edges than usual, approaching, in every respect,
nearer to that appearance of the sun’s disk, which has obtained for them the
name of mock-suns. The parhelion b, over the sun was never very bright, and
the circle of the halo was but faintly tinged with the prismatic colours. Part

X -2

1820.

March.

156

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

March.

Thurs. 9

of a horizontal circle of pale white light passed through the sun’s disk, and
across the two lower parhelia, being much more bright without than within
them. By looking at the sun through a coloured glass, a column of light was
seen under it, as often observed before. The brightness of the whole phe-
nomenon varied every instant, on account of the snow-drift.

c

I

When this phenomenon had continued about an hour and a half, we per-
ceived a segment of another circle above the first, and inverted with regard to
it, as at c, its centre being somewhere near the zenith. The distance from the
sun to c was about 54°, as nearly as the indistinctness of the latter would
allow of its being measured. The whole disappeared in two hours and a half
from its commencement, during which time, the thermometer was from — 16°
to — 20°, and the weather fine and clear over head. From nine P.M., till
midnight, the Aurora Borealis appeared faintly in the horizon to the south,
occasionally streaming towards the zenith in coruscations of pale white light.

On the 9th, it blew a hard gale from the northward and westward, raising
a snow-drift which made the day almost as inclement as in the midst of winter.
The wind very suddenly ceased in the evening, and while the atmosphere

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

157

near the ships was so serene and undisturbed that the smoke rose quite per- 1820,
pendicularly, we saw the snow-drift on the hills at one or two miles’ distance
whirled up into the air, in columns several hundred feet high, and carried
along by the wind, sometimes to the north, and at others in the opposite di-
rection. The snow, thus raised, at times resembled water-spouts, but more
frequently appeared like smoke issuing from the tops of the hills, and, as
such, was at first represented to me.

On the 12th, Lieutenant Liddon reported another of his seamen to be Sun. 12.
affected with scurvy, making two in each ship labouring, more or less, under
this disease ; Mr. Scallon also complained again a little, of feeling, according
to his own account, “ as if tired with walking by attention, however, to the
wannth and dryness of his clothing, he gradually recovered his former
strength as the season advanced.

It blew a strong breeze from the N.b.W., with a heavy snow-drift, on theTues. 14.
12th, which continued, with little intermission, till near noon on the 14th ; af-
fording us a convincing proof that the hopes with which we had flattered our-
selves of the speedy return of spring were not yet to be accomplished. During
this time the thermometer had once more fallen as low as — 28°, a change
which, after the late mild weather, we felt much in the same manner as we
should have done any of those alterations which occur in a more temperate
climate, at a higher part of the scale. I have before had occasion to observe
that this remark* is equally applicable to all the changes we experienced in the
course of the winter, either from cold to warm, or the contrary.

At one P.M., on the 14th, the weather being nearly calm, and the ther-
mometer at -f 33° in the sun, there was a second partial melting of the snow
upon the ships’ stern. Immediately on the springing up of a light breeze,
however, the thermometer in the sun fell to -t- 11°, and at half-past two was
at + 6°, the temperature of the air in the shade remaining steadily from — 16°
to — 17°. At five P.M., a parhelion was observed on each side of the sun,
at its own altitude, and distant from it 22° 10', with a part of the usual ho-
rizontal circle, extending 2° or 3° from the outer edge of each parhelion.

On the 16th, there being little wind, the weather was again pleasant andThur. 16.
comfortable, though the thermometer remained very low. While it continued
nearly calm, we observed the following differences in the temperature of the
air in the shade and in the sun ; the latter, were, however, noted by a ther-
mometer placed under the ship’s stern, which situation was a warm one, for
the reasons before assigned.

158

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

A.M. 9 . SHADE — 24?° . SUN + 24°

10 . . . - 23° . . . +27°

11 . . . - 22° . . . + 28|°

Noon ... - 21° . . . +29°

P.M. 3 . . . - 13° . . . + 19°.

This evening, the officers performed the farces of the Citizen and the
Mayor of Garratt, being the last of oar theatrical amusements for this winter,
the season having now arrived when there would no longer be a want of oc-
cupation for the men, and when it became necessary also to remove a part of
the roofing to admit light to the officers’ cabins. Our poets were again set to
work on this occasion, and an appropriate address was this evening spoken
on the closing of the North Georgia Theatre, than which we may, without
vanity, be permitted to say, none had ever done more real service to the com-
munity for whose benefit it was intended.

Mon. 20. Two of the Hecla’s seamen, who were employed on shore in digging
stones for ballast, reported on the 20th, that they had seen a glaucous gull,
or one of that species known to sailors by the name of “ burgomaster.” On
being questioned respecting this bird, they strongly insisted on the impos-
sibility of their having mistaken its kind, having been within twenty yards
of it. As, however, these gulls cannot well subsist without open water, of
which there was certainly none in the neighbourhood at that period, we con-
jectured that it might have been an owl ; a bird that may, perhaps, remain on the
island, even during the whole winter, as the abundance of mice (Mus Hudsonlus},
of which we constantly saw the tracks upon the snow, would furnish them with
an ample supply of food. It was a novelty to us, however, to see any living animal
in this desolate spot; for even the wolves and foxes, our occasional visitors
during the winter, had almost entirely deserted us for several weeks past.

The sick report of the Griper this day contained no less than ten cases, of
which four were scorbutic, while the number of sick, or rather of conva-
lescent, on board the Hecla, did not amount to half that number. On in-
quiring into the probable cause of this extraordinary proportion of sick on
board the Griper, which, just at this period, when their services began to be
necessary to our re-equipment, was likely to prove of serious importance, I
found, from Lieutenant Liddon, that the beams and bed-places on the Griper’s
lower-deck had lately been in so damp a state, in consequence of the con-
densation of the vapour upon them, and in spite of every endeavour to pre-
vent it, that there could be little doubt of the cause to which the present

/

1820.

March.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

159

unhealthiness of the crew was to be chiefly attributed. I, therefore, directed a i820.
survey to be held by the three medical officers, and a report to be made of
their opinions, as to the expediency of altogether removing the bed-places, or
of adopting any other means for obviating the evil in question. These gen-
tlemen were of opinion that the extreme dampness was “ occasioned by
the necessary proximity of the bed-places to the vessels’ sides, and the
smallness of the lower-deck, in consequence of which the vapours formed
were deposited in so great abundance, particularly during meal-times, that
the heat of the fires was inadequate to remove the evil, before the cause was
again renewed.” They therefore recommended taking down the bed-places,
in order to admit a more free ventilation, as well as a more equal distribution
of the warmth, and that hammocks should be substituted in their place ; an
alteration which was immediately adopted. While on this subject, which
is so intimately connected with the health of seamen in the Arctic Regions,
it may be proper for me to remark that, although the bed-places, which were
fitted on board the Hecla and Griper, give a neat and comfortable appearance '
to the lower-deck, and are in reality a great convenience to the men in many
respects, yet that our winter’s experience plainly shews them to be so
favourable to the accumulation of dampness or ice within them, that there
can remain little doubt of their unfitness for this service ; and, I believe,
that hammocks will be found warmer, and in every respect more comfortable
to the men, than any other kind of sleeping-place that could be adopted. To
the officers’ cabins, which are necessarily closer to the ship’s side, the same
remark applies still more strongly ; and with this difference only, that, on
account of the want of length, cots must be used instead of hammocks. The
advantage of thus removing from the ship’s side was remarkably proved in
the case of Lieutenant Liddon, whose state of health was so bad during the
winter, that we at one time entertained very serious apprehensions respecting
him. It was proposed, therefore, about the end of February, that he should sleep
in a cot, at some distance from the side ; and, from that period, his recovery
was so rapid and so decided, that in a few weeks he was enabled to walk out
every fine day in the open air for exercise, with the thermometer at twenty
degrees below zero, and without the slightest degree of inconvenience.

On the 23d, we found, by digging a hole in the ice, in the middle of the har- Thur. 23.
hour, where the depth of water was four fathoms and a quarter, that its thickness
was six feet and a half, and the snow on the surface of it eight inches deep.

This may be considered a fair specimen of the average formation of ice in this

160

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

1820. neighbourhood since the middle of the preceding September; and as the
freezing process did not stop for more than six weeks after this, the produce
of the whole winter may, perhaps, be reasonably taken at seven, or seven
and a half feet. In chopping this ice with an axe, the men found it very
hard and brittle till they arrived within a foot of the lower surface, where it
became soft and spongy.

Sat. 25. At noon, on the 25th, two thermometers stood

in the shade at — 25°, and in the sun at + 30°

at 1 P.M. - - 22°, +17°

2 - - - 22°, +25°

3 - - - - 22°, +21°

the thermometer in the sun being placed at a distance from the ship, and the
weather very calm and fine. The length of the day had now so much increased.

Sun. 26, that at midnight on the 26th, there was a very sensible twilight in the northern
quarter of the heavens ; and such was the rapidity with which this part of the
season appeared to us to have come round, that we could, with difficulty,
picture to ourselves the total darkness from which we had so lately emerged.

Tues. 28. On the 28th, Lieutenant Beechey reported, on his return from a walk over
the hills to the westward, that he had seen, even more plainly than before,
that refracted appearanee in the southern horizon, which bore a strong
resemblance to distant land in that direction ; and, what is most worthy of
notice, still seeming to terminate abruptly about a S.b.E. bearing from Winter
Harbour. The thermometer was at this time at — 20°, and the mercury in
the barometer standing at 30.22 inches.

April. On one of the fine days in the early part of March, in taking a longer walk
than usual on the north side of the harbour, we accidentally met with a small
flat stone, on which the letter P was plainly engraved. As there seemed
little doubt that this had been artificially done, and as, since our arrival in
Winter Harbour, the weather had been too cold to induce any of our people
to sit down on the ground for the purpose of exercising their talent in this
way, we were entirely at a loss to conjecture how it came there, and various
amusing speculations were resorted to, in order to account for it. Since
that time, the weather had not permitted our sending for it till this day,
when it was brought on .board ; and on inquiry among the men, we found
that Peter Fisher, a seaman belonging to the Griper, who was one of the
party under Mr. Fife, respecting whom we had felt so much anxiety in the
preceding September, had, on that occasion, amused himself by begin*

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of March, 1820.

Day

Temperahire of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi*

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

0

—25

o

-40

o

-31.33

inches.

30.16

inches.

29.80

inches.

30.050

South.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

2

—17

-33

-25.00

29.63

29.52

29.570

(South, round by?
? West, to North 5

Fresh breezes and hazy with drift.

3

—26

-37

-31.33

29.68

29.55

29.625

North.

Strong breezes : much drift.

4

—24

-33

-27.92.,

29.62

29.50

29.575

N.N.W.

Fresh gales to light airs.

5

— 9

-26

-16.50

29.41

29.30

29.378

E.S.E.

Light airs and cloudy — small snow.

6

+ 2.5

- 8

- 2.50

29.12

29.00

29.030

( S.S.E. )

? variable. 5

Moderate with small snow.

7

+ 2

-15

- 6.17

29.27

29.03

29.172

N.W.

Do. Do.

8

—16

-22

-18.35

30.15

29.32

29.762

North.

Fresh breezes with drift.

9

— 3

-14

- 8.58

30.13

29.88

29.980

West.

Strong breezes and hazy — P.M. moderate.

10

+ 1

-14

- 4.96

29.78

29.62

29.695

Round the compass.

Variable, from calm to strong breezes.

11

+ 6

-11

- 2.25

29.63

29.30

29.478

West.

Fresh breezes and hazy with drift.

12

—19

—29

-24.00

29.96

29.62

29.822

N.b.W.

Do. Do.

13

—10

—27

-22.71

29.97

29.82

29.905

N.b.W.

Do. Do.

14

—12.

—24

-17.83

29.83

29.62

29.757

North.

Do. Do.

15

—10

-23

-16.25

29.76

29.50

29.600

North.

Do. Do.

16

—13

-26

-21.79

29.88

29.76

29.828

N.N.W.

Light airs and fine.

17

—12

—24

-17.58

29.87

29.83

29.857

N.b.W.

Strong breezes with much drift.

18

— 5

-16

- 8.88

29.99

29.78

29.882

North.

Fresh gales with heavy drift.

19

—10

-18

-13.75

30.00

29.91

29.965

1 North.

Moderate and clear.

20

— 8

—18

-11.88

29.89

29.75

29.805

I North.

Light airs with small snow.

21

—12

-24

-15.63

29.78

29.63

29.697

1 5 N.b.E. ?

1 North. ]

Light airs and hazy.

22

— 8

-22

-13.75

29.88

29.72

29.780

1 North.

Fresh breezes and hazy with drift.

23

—17

-26

—22.42

30.05

29.91

29.997

North.

Light airs and fine.

24

—18

-27

-21.50

30.06

29.95

29.995

North.

Do. Do.

25

-22

-30

-26.71

29.94

29.92

29.927"

f N.W. ?

t North. S

Do. Do.

20

—21

-29

-25.50

30.14

29.93

30.005

North.

Light to strong breezes.

27

—19

-33

-26.17

30.19

30.03

30.132

North.

Light airs to snow.

28

—16

-29

—24.17

30.26

30.19

30.227

N.N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

29

—17

—28

-23.88

30.19

30.14

30.165

N.N.W.

Do. Do.

30

—12

-28

-20.29

30.25

30.14

30.212

North.

Do. Do.

31

— 3

-27

-11.50

30.18

29.89

30.003

N.W.

Do. and hazy.

+ 6

-40

-18.10

30.26

29.00

29.803

Y

162

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

April.

Wed. 5.

ning to scratch upon the stone in question, the initials of his name *. This
circumstance is only worthy of notice, from its proving to how considerable
a distance this party had rambled, and how completely they were in error as
to the direction in which they had been travelling ; the distance between the
two places being twenty-five miles. I was in hopes, also, of finding out by
this means, the situation of a large lake which Mr. Fife reported having seen,
and from which he brought a small fish, of the trout kind ; but the more I
questioned him and his party, the more I was convinced of the little depend-
ance to be placed on the account of persons circumstanced as they were,
and of their utter ignorance as to the part of the island in which the lake
was to be found.

In the evening, a parhelion was seen on each side of the sun, and a
third above it, as usual, at the angular distance of 22° 20', the two first being
strongly marked by the prismatic colours, and the other very indistinctly.

Early on the morning of the 3d, we observed an effect of refraction very
common in seas having much ice. It consists in the images of hummocks of
ice, reflected and inverted somewhat in this manner,

in which case, from the apparent shape of these images, the ice is techni-
cally said to “ tree.” This appearance is considered by the Greenland
sailors, as an indication of clear water in the direction in which it is seen,
which was certainly not the case this morning.

At nine A.M., on the 5th, the weather being very fine, and the thermometer
at — 18°, we observed a halo round the sun, which was at times nearly
complete. There was, as usual, a parhelion on each side of the’ sun, at the
same altitude, and distinctly prismatic. There was also a third parhelion

* When Mr. Fife and his party returned from that excursion, it was a matter of surprise
to us, to see how fresh Fisher was, and how little he seemed to regard what had happened,
as any thing out of the common way, of which, indeed, the circumstance just related, is
also a proof. When asked, on his first arrival on board on that occasion, what they had
lived upon, “ Lived upon,” said Fisher, dryly, “ the Duke of Wellington never lived so
well. We had grouse for breakfast, grouse for dinner, and grouse for supper, to be
sure !”

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

163

in that part of the circle immediately above the sun, and this had a peculiarity 1820.
attending it which we had never before observed. Although the weather
was remarkably fine and clear, the atmosphere was full of innumerable
minute spiculw of snow glittering in the sun, which we had never before seen
on a bright sun-shiny day, though we had constant occasion to remark such
a deposit, at times when the weather could by no means be called hazy,
and when the heavenly bodies were distinctly visible. The parhelion above
the sun appeared to be evidently formed by the reflection of the sun’s rays
to the eye, by an infinite number of these spiculae, commencing close to
the observer, and continuing so as to be easily distinguishable for at least
one or two hundred yards from the eye. This parhelion might at times be
easily seen to consist of the intersection, or rather the touching, of two
circles turning opposite ways, of which the plainest was generally the upper
one, or that which had its convex side downwards. At about 22° above
the parhelion, being nearly the same distance that the latter was above the
sun, a streak of glittering spiculae was permanently seen in a horizontal
direction ; but there was so little of it, that it was difficult to say of
what regular figure it formed a part. This phenomenon continued above
an hour.

Being extremely anxious to get rid, as early as possible, of the drying of
our washed clothes upon the lower deck, I had to-day a silk handkerchief
washed, and hung up under the stern, in order to try the effect of the
sun’s rays upon it. In four hours it became thoroughly dry, the thermo-
meter in the shade, being from — 18° to — 6°, at the time. This was the
first article that had been dried without artificial heat for six months, and
it was yet another month before flannel could be dried in the open air.

When this is considered, as well as that during the same period, the airing
of the bedding, the drying of the bed-places, and the ventilation of the in-
habited parts of the ship, were wholly dependent on the same means, and
this with a very limited supply of fuel, it may, perhaps, be conceived in
some degree, what unremitting attention was necessary to the preservation
of health, under circumstances so unfavourable and even prejudicial.

At midnight, on the 7th, there was light enough to read the thermometer
with great ease On the 8th, the weather was serene and clear ; the southern Sat. 8.
horizon being much raised by refraction, and presenting very strongly the
same appearance of land which had so often before been observed in that
quarter. A few thin white clouds which were floating in the atmosphere

164

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY.

1820.

April.

Sun. 9,

to-day, had much of that tendency to arch, which has before been described
on one or two occasions. Two distinct arches were thus formed this mornino-
one in the northern, the other in the southern hemisphere of the heavens,
their altitude in the centre being from 20° to 45°, and joining at each end in
the E.N.E. and W.S.W. points of the horizon.

From half-past six till eight A.M., on the 9th, a halo, with parhelia, was
observed about the sun, similar in every respect to those described on the
5th. At one P.M. these phenomena re-appeared, together with several others
of the same nature, which, with Captain Sabine’s assistance, I have endea-
voured to delineate in the annexed figure.

t, u, a complete horizontal circle of white light passing through the sun.

a, a very bright and dazzling parhelion, not prismatic.

b, c, prismatic parhelia at the intersection of a circle a, b, d, c, whose radius
was 22|° with the horizontal circle ^, u.

X, d, V, an arch of an inverted circle, having its centre apparently about
the zenith. This arch was very strongly tinted with the prismatic colours.

k, e, 1. an arch apparently elliptical rather than circular, e being distant
from the sun 26° ; the part included between x and x was prismatic, the rest
white. The space included between the two prismatic arches, x 6 v d was

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

165

made extremely brilliant by the reflection of the sun’s rays, from innume- 1820.
rable minute spiculse of snow floating in the atmosphere.

qfr, a circle having a radius from the sun, of 45°, strongly prismatic about
the points / q r, and faintly so all round.

mn, a small arch of an inverted circle, strongly prismatic, and having its
centre apparently in the zenith.

rp, qo, arches of large circles, very strongly prismatic, which could only
be traced to p and o ; but on that part of the horizontal circle t u, which was
directly opposite to the sun, there appeared a confused white light, which had
occasionally the appearance of being caused by the intersection of large arches
coinciding with a prolongation of r p, and q o.

The above phenomenon continued during the greater part of the afternoon ;
but at six P.M,, the distance between d and e increased considerably, and
what before appeared an arch, x, d, v, now assumed the appearance given in
fig. 12, plate 287, of Brewster’s Encyclopcedia, resembling horns, and so
described in the article “ Halo,” of that work. At 90° from the sun, on
each side of it, and at an altitude of 30° to 50°, there now appeared also a
very faint arch of white light, which sometimes seemed to form a part of
the circles q o, r p ; and sometimes we thought they turned the opposite
way. In the outer large circle, we now observed two opposite and corre-
sponding spots y, y, more strongly prismatic than the rest, and the inverted
arch m,f, n, was now much longer than before, and resembled a beautiful
rainbow.

The protracted length of the winter began now to make us more than usually Thur. 1 3.
impatient, and to create in us reasonable apprehensions lest our escape from
Winter Harbour should unavoidably be postponed to a period too late for the
accomplishment of those sanguine hopes, with which the last year’s success
had induced us to flatter ourselves. The extraordinary degree of cold which
continued day after day was such as we had certainly not anticipated ; and
when, at this period, with the sun above the horizon for seventeen hours
out of the four and twenty, the thermometer was still occasionally falling as
low as — 31°, which it did at four this morning, it must be confessed that
our future prospects of advancement began to wear a very unpromising
aspect. It may be imagined, also, with what anxiety we watched for the
first appearance of a thaw, both on shore and upon the ice round the ships,
in neither of which had any such appearances yet become perceptible, except
that here and there, where the snow happened to lie very thin upon the

166

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. ground, allowing the sun’s rays to penetrate to the earth, a sufficient degree
of heat had been radiated partially to thaw the snow, forming it into a thin
transparent cake, like a plate of glass. Indeed, the cloudless sky, and the
uniformly white surface of sea and land which characterize the climate of
Melville Island at this period, are ill calculated to impart warmth to the
atmosphere ; and it was not till the clouds became gradually more dense
and frequent, and the earth had, by slow degrees, become uncovered in parts,
so as to admit the absorption and radiation of heat, that the dissolution of the
snow could go on to any considerable extent.

Sun. 16. In the afternoon of the 1 6th, the weather being clear and nearly calm,
Mr. Hooper and myself observed a colouring in some light fleecy clouds, which
formed one of the most beautiful phenomena that I had ever seen. These clouds,
which were small and white, and almost the only ones in the heavens, assumed,
as they approached and passed under the sun, the most soft and exquisite
tints of light lake, bluish green, and yellow about their edges, that can pos-
sibly be imagined. These tints appeared only when the clouds were within
15° or 20° of the sun, were brightest as they passed under it, which they did
as close as 2°, and began to be again indistinct at 10° from it. Some of the
clouds remained coloured in this way for upwards of a quarter of an hour ;
there did not seem to be any regular arrangement of tints, as in the prismatic
spectrum, but the lake was always next the sun.

It was a source of extreme satisfaction to me to find that the health of both
ships’ companies were daily improving as the season advanced ; so that by
the middle of April, the Griper’s sick list was reduced to four, all of whom
were convalescent ; and on board the Hecla, Mr. Edwards had but a single
patient, William Scott, boatswain’s-mate, who first complained of pneumonia
about this time, and whose case subsequently assumed a more dangerous
character.

On the 1 9th and 20th, the thermometer kept up nearly to zero, in conse-
quence of the wind blowing from the E.S.E., and continual snow, of which

Frid. 21. we remarked, when walking on shore on the 2Ist, that as much had fallen in
the last two days as during the whole of the winter. The spiculae were also
much less minute than before, though the snow could not as yet be said to fall
in flakes.

Tiies. 25. The wind, which had blown fresh from the eastward for several hours,
moderated at half past two A.M. on the 25th, and the thermometer fell from
+ 4° to - 1° at four o’clock. As the wind freshened again, the thermometer

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

167

once more rose, and by eight A.M. stood at + 10°. On the two following 1820.
days Captain Sabine made some observations on the difference in the tern-
perature of the atmosphere in the sun, and in the shade ; which shew the
effect of the sun’s rays much more correctly than those made on board, as it
is almost impossible to prevent the thermometer from being affected by the
radiation of heat from the ship. “ Two posts having been fixed in the snow,
at a short distance apart, and connected by a line passing through the
shadow cast, by the observatory, about the middle of the day, two mercurial
thennometers, being an exact pair, and having their bulbs unprotected, were
suspended from the line, one being exposed to the sun, and the other in the
shade of the observatory ; the bulbs of both were six or eight inches from

the snow.”

h. m.

SUN.

SHADE.

April 26,

1 30 P.M.

o /

+ 17

o • ^

-f- 6 5

2 —

22

7 1

/ Calm.

2 13

23

^ (

2 18

24 5

7 6 j

2 35

20 5

6 5

A gentle air.

2 50

21

6 7

6 —

9 5

4 5

April 27.

11 20 A.M.

15

5 "

11 30

20

7

H 40

34

9

11 45

23 5

8 5

11 55

24

8 5

) Almost calm.

0 25 P.M.

21

7

1 —

20

7 5

2 20

25

7 7

2 45

10

4 5

A breeze sprung up.

The morning of the 27th being very fine, and the thermometer at + 6°, xhur. 27.
the ship’s company’s bedding was hung up to air, between the fore and main
rigging, being the first time we had ventured to bring it from the lower deck
for nearly eight months. While it was out, the births and bed-places were
fumigated with a composition of powder mixed with vinegar, and known
familiarly by the name of devils; an operation which had been regularly
gone through once a week during the winter.

168

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. This evening, and during the whole night, we experienced, for the first time
this season, a fog, such as occurs in more temperate climates, and which the
sun dispersed on the following morning ; the same thing again occurred the
Frid. 28. next day.

Sat. 29. At half past two P.M. on the 29th, Mr. Edwards and myself observed the
clouds coloured in the same beautiful and delicate manner as on the 16th ;
except that the tints were now not so vivid, the clouds passing farther from
the sun. A parhelion was also seen on each side of the sun horizontally ;
both were faint and quite white.

I have before mentioned the circumstance of our lower rigging having been
very slack during the severity of the winter, and again become tight as the
warmer weather came on. Even now this had taken place so effectually, that
the rigging was full as tight as when we left the river Thames twelve
months before. I have been the more particular in mentioning this fact,
because the circumstance of its becoming slack by the cold is at variance with
the accounts of other navigators*.

For the last three or four days of April, the snow on the black cloth
of our housing had begun to thaAv a little during a few hours in the
middle of the day, and on the 30th so rapid a change took place in the
temperature of the atmosphere, that the thermometer stood at the freezing’
or, as it may more properly be termed in this climate, the thaAving point,
being the first time that such an event had occurred for nearly eight months,
or since the 9th of the preceding September. This temperature was, to
our feelings, so much like that of summer, that I was under the necessity of
using my authority to prevent the men from making such an alteration in their
clothing as might have been attended with very dangerous consequences. By
the annexed Abstract of the Hecla’s Meteorological Journal for April, it will
be seen hoAv rapid was the change of temperature during this month, the ther-
mometer having ranged from - 32° to + 32° in the course of twenty days.
There Avas, at this period, more snoAv upon the ground than at any other time
of the year, the average depth on the loAver parts of the land being four or
five inches, but much less upon the hills ; Avhile in the ravines a very large

* On the morning of the 5th, (November), it Avas discovered that almost all the shrouds
on the starboard side of the ship Avere broken, Avhich happened from contraction aiid
tenseness, caused by frost.” — Account of Bering’s Voyage, A.D. 1741, Burney’s North-
Eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 171..

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

169

quantity had been collected. The snow at this time became so soft, from i820.
the influence of the sun upon it, as to make walking very laborious and
unpleasant.

This rapid change in the temperature of the atmosphere again revived our
hopes of a speedy departure from Melville Island ; and such were the sanguine
expectations which animated us at this period, that I believe there was not an
officer or man, on board either of the ships, who had not made up his mind to
the probability of our leaving Winter Harbour by the middle or latter part
of June.

The fine and temperate weather with which the month of April had con- May.
eluded, induced Captain Sabine to set the clocks going, in order to commence Mon. 1.
his observations for the pendulum, and he now took up his quarters entirely
on shore for that purpose. On the first of May, however, it blew a strong
gale from the northward, which made it impossible to keep up the desired
temperature in the house ; and so heavy was the snow-drift, that in a few
hours the house was nearly covered, and we were obliged to communicate
with Captain Sabine and his attendants through a small window, from which
the snow was, with much labour, cleared away, the door being quite inac-
cessible. We saw the sun at midnight for the first time this season.

The gale and snow-drift continued on the following day, when we had Tues. 2.
literally to dig out the sentries, who attended the fire at the house, in order
to have them relieved. I feel it right to mention these circumstances,
that the difficulties with which Captain Sabine had to contend, may be duly
appreciated in the making of observations that require, even under every
favourable circumstance of weather and climate, no ordinary share of skill
and attention.

The day being moderate and fine on the 3d, we perceived that the late Wed. 3.
gale had almost entirely uncovered the higher parts of the land, the snow
being blown into the ravines and hollows. We remarked, in the forenoon, that
the clouds had a tendency to form two distinct arches across the heavens from
N.N.E, to S.S.W., joining at the horizon, but separating gradually on each
side of the zenith, to the distance of 8° or 10° from each other. At ten P.M.
a parhelion was seen on each side of the sun, at the usual distance, and
slightly tinged with the prismatic colours.

z

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of April, 1820.

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini.

mum.

Mean.

1

O

- 0

O

—16

0

— 6.33

inches.

30.02

inehes.
30 01

inches.

30.013

N.W.

Light breezes and cloudy : snow.

2

— 2

—25

— 8.37

30.02

29.89

29.955

Round the compass.

Light and variable with snow.

3

— 9

—26

— 18.71

29.81

29.79

29.798

North

Light airs and fine.

4

~ 8

—26

— 14.75

29.86

29.33

29.843

North

Ditto ditto.

5

— 5

—24.5

— 16.62

30.00

29.86

29.908

N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

6

—15

—25

— 18.75

30.01

29.96

29.983

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes witli drift.

7

-13

—26

— 21.00

30.00

29.89

29.910

N.W.

Moderate and fine.

8

-13

—29

— 20.46

29.87

29.84

29.855

North

Light airs and fine.

9

—14

—30

— 21.85

29.88

29.83

29.850

S.E.

Ditto ditto.

10

—12

—32

— 22.96

29.80

29.70

29.730

North

Ditto ditto.

11

-12

—27

— 19.67

29.68

29.57

29.620

North

Ditto ditto.

12

—11

—29

— 20.00

29.64

29.52

29.565

North

Ditto ditto.

13

—15

—31

— 22.92

29.85

29.67

29.768

N.by.W. to South.

Ditto ditto.

14

-14

—29

— 19.37

29.95

29.89

29.932

N.N.E. to S.S.E.

Ditto ditto.

15

+ 6

—17

— 7.33

29.72

29.40

29.543

E.S.E.

From fresh to light breezes.

16

— 5

-19

— 12.33

29.90

29.57

29.770

N.N.W.

Light breezes and clear.

17

— 5

—21

— 13.62

30.26

29.94

30.127

Round the compass.

Ditto ditto.

18

- 1

-15

— 8.17

30.32

30.23

30.288

Calm.

Clear weather.

19

+ 2

—13

— 4.00

30.23

29.92

30.052

E.S.E.

Light airs and fine.

20

+ 4

— 9

— 2.21

29.78

29.67

29.697

East.

Fresh breezes : snow and drift.

21

+ 3

-10

— 3.17

29.96

29.70

29.837

N.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

22

0

—12

— 4.63

30.00

[29.97

29.987

North

Fresh breezes and hazy.

23

+ 13

— 5

+ 4.00

29.89

29.63

29.756

N.N.E.

Fresh breezes with drift.

24

+ 14

+ 4

+ 10.42

29.71

29.67

29.692

East.

Fresh breezes with snow and drift.

25

+ 14

— 7

+ 4.88

30.20

29.70

29.970

East to S.S.W.

Moderate with snow and drift.

26

+ 11

—12

— 1.17

30.55

30.25

30.380

North.

Light airs and fine weather.

27

+ 9

—12

+ 0.08

30.86

30.66

30.803

North to S.E.

Ditto ditto.

28

+ 15

— 5

+ 4.83

30.79

30.46

30.607

Round the compass.

Ditto ditto.

29

+ 22

+ S

+ 12.75

30.66

30.43

30.555

North.

Light airs with snow.

30

+ 32

+ 6

+ 20,38

30.67

30.34

30-505

N.W.

Ditto ditto.

+ 32

—32

- 8.37

30.86

29.40

29.978

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

171

Being desirous of making some observations on the height and time of the 1820.
tides, I directed a hole to be cut through the ice under the ship’s stern, and
a pole, graduated in the upper part to feet and inches, dropped through it, Thurs. 4.
and securely moored by a heavy weight to the bottom. Our observations
commenced this afternoon, and the height indicated by the pole was regis-
tered every hour in the Hecla’s log-book. An abstract of the Tide-table,
together with such remarks as I have been enabled to make on this subject,
will be given hereafter. The snow which we had in the autumn banked up
against the ships’ sides was now cleared away, in readiness for cutting the ice
round them, an operation which I was anxious to perform previously to our
making any alterations in the quantity or distribution of the weight in our
holds, lest the ships should receive any injury from doing so, in their present
confined situation. It is of course not easy to judge in what degree the
banking up of the snow had been serviceable in retaining the warmth within
the ships, but there can be little doubt that it produced a considerable effect
in this way, as well perhaps as in lessening, in some measure, the thickness
of the ice which formed around them.

On the 5th Mr. Edwards reported that Mr. Crawford, the Greenland mate, Frid. 5.
who had, for several days past, been complaining of pains which appeared to
be rheumatic, shewed some symptoms of the scurvy, which made it necessary
to resort to the antiscorbutic diet. It is worthy of notice, that Mr. Crawford
was one of the most clean, temperate, and cheerful men in the expe-
dition, and, as such, was one of the least likely to be thus affected. The
washed clothes of the ships’ company were this day dried entirely in the
open air.

On the. 6th, the thermometer rose no higher than -l- 8|° during the day ; Sat. 6.
but, as the wind was moderate, and it was high time to endeavour to get
the ships once more fairly afloat, we commenced the operation of cutting
the ice about them. In order to prevent the men suffering from wet and
cold feet, a pair of strong boots and boot-stockings were on this occasion
served to each, being part of a complete suit of warm clothing, with which I
had been supplied for the purpose of issuing them to the ship’s companies
gratis, whenever I should see occasion. As the sun became low towards
midnight, the usual parhelia appeared about this luminary.

At half-past nine A. M,, on the 10th, Lieutenant Beechey observed a halo Wed. 10.
round the sun, consisting of a complete circle, and an arch of another,
touching the first in the part immediately above the sun, and having its

172

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

May.

Frid. 12.

centre apparently from 40° to 50° from that object. There were two parhelia
faintly prismatic as usual, but about 3° without the circle.

This phenomenon was remarkable, on account of the parhelia not being
situated upon the halo, as was usually the case. It now occurred to me,
that on the preceding day, when the same phenomenon had been faintly
seen, Mr. Nias, whom I directed to measure the angular distance between
the parhelia and the sun, had reported it to be 24° 40', the radius of the
halo being 22|° as usual. This I considered to have been an unavoidable
error in the measurement of an ill-defined object ; but, on repeating it, his
first report was found to be correct. On the present occasion, Lieutenant
Beechey saw it for so short a time as not to allow him to measure the
distance.

The Expedition having, at its departure from England, been victualled for
no more than two years, of which one had now expired, I considered it
expedient, as a matter of precaution, to reduce the daily allowance of all the
kinds of provision to two-thirds of the established proportion, which re-
gulation accordingly took place from this day. The cheerfulness with which
this reduction was received by both officers and men, was to me an additional
and highly-gratifying proof of that firm and zealous principle of duty by
which their conduct was at all times regulated.

On the 12th, one of the men, employed in digging turf on shore, reported
that he had seen a ptarmigan, an event which, trifling as it was, created
no smalt degree of interest among us, who had now been deprived of fresh
meat for nearly six months ; it was also hailed as a sure omen of returning

OF A NORTH WEST PASSAGE.

173

summer. This was further confirmed by Mr. Beverly having on the 13th
killed a male ptarmigan, and by another being seen on the following day, as
well as the first tracks of rein-deer and musk-oxen, which indicated their
route to be directly to the northward. The time of the return of these
animals to Melville Island, from the continent, is thus satisfactorily ascer-
tained; and it was suggested by Captain Sabine, as a circumstance worthy
of remark, that the period of their migration had occurred with the first fine
weather which took place after the commencement of constant day-light.
In examining the seeds and small buds contained in the maw of the bird killed
by Mr. Beverly, they were found to consist entirely of the native plants of the
island, and principally those of the dwarf- willow, so that the bird had perhaps
arrived a day or two before that time. On the 15th, two or three coveys
of ptarmigan were seen, after which they became more and more numerous,
and a brace or two were almost daily procured for the sick, for whose use
they were exclusively reserved. As it was of the utmost importance, under
our present circumstances, that every ounce of game which we might thus
procure, should be served in lieu of the other meat, I now renewed the
orders formerly given, and which afterwards obtained among us the name
of “ game-laws,” that every animal killed was to be considered as public
property ; and, as such, to be regularly issued like any other kind of pro-
vision, without the slightest distinction between the messes of the officers
and those of the ships’ companies.

Some of our men, having, in the course of their shooting excursions, been
exposed for several hours to the glare of the sun and snow, returned at
night, much affected with that painful inflammation in the eyes, occasioned
by the reflection of intense light from the snow, aided by the warmth of
the sun, and called in America, “ snow-blindness.” This complaint, of
which the sensation exactly resembles that produced by large particles of
sand or dust in the eyes, is cured by some tribes of American Indians, by
holding them over the steam of warm water ; but we found a cooling wash,
made of a small quantity of acetate of lead mixed with cold water, more
efficacious in relieving the irritation, which was always done in three or
four days, even in the most severe cases, provided the eyes were carefully
guarded from the light. As a preventive of this complaint, a piece of black
crape was given to each man, to be worn as a kind of short veil attached to
the hat, which we found to be very serviceable; a still more convenient
mode, adopted by some of the officers, was found equally efficacious ; this

1820.

May.

174

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. consisted in taking the glasses out of a pair of spectacles, and substituting
black or green crape, the glass having been found to heat the eyes, and
increase the irritation.

The exhalations arising from the earth were about this time observed to be
very abundant, producing, during the day-time, much of that appearance of
waving tremulous motion in distant objects, which the French call mirage,
and which was usually succeeded by a fog at night, as soon as the atmosphere
had become cool.

Tues. 16. During one of these fogs, at four A.M. on the 16th, the sky being perfectly
clear in the zenith to 30° of altitude, whilst a dense haze rested on the land
and ice. Captain Sabine observed “a haze-bow of distinetand dazzling light,
having its edges softened off, and without any appearance of prismatic
colouring. The legs of the bow rose out of a bluish haze, the colour of
which somewhat resembled that of weak starch ; not quite half a circle was
complete ; the middle of the arch was between 22° and 23° above the land,
which is of little elevation, and the legs were 71° apart. The weather was
nearly calm, and there had been a considerable deposition of frozen dew
throughout the night. Similar phenomena were observed on the mornings of
the 20th and 23d, about the same hour.”

Wed. 17. On the 17th, we completed the operation of cutting the ice round the
Hecla, which was performed in the following manner: The ice alongside
the ships was found to be six feet thick, being about eighteen inches less
than the average thickness of it in Winter Harbour, owing principally to our
having continued to cut it round the ships for some time after the commence-
ment of the winter, and in part, perhaps, to the snow with which it had
there been thickly covered. We began by digging a large bole under the
stern, being the same as that in which the tide-pole was placed, in order to
enter the saw, which occupied us nearly two days, only a small number of
men being able to Avork at it. In the mean time, all the snow and rubbish
was cleared away from the ship’s side, leaving only the solid ice to work
upon ; and a trench, two feet wide, was cut the whole length of the starboard
side, from the stem to the rudder, keeping within an inch or two of the
bends, and taking care here and there to leave a dike, to prevent the
water Avhich might ooze into one part from filling up the others in which
the men were working. In this manner was the trench cut with axes,
to the depth of about four feet and a half, leaving only eighteen inches
for the saws to cut, except in those places where the dikes remained.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

175

The saw being then entered in the hole under the stern, was worked
in the usual manner, being suspended by a triangle made of three spars ;
one cut being made on the outer part of the trench, and a second within
an inch or two of the bends, in order to avoid injuring the planks. A
small portion of ice being broken oflf now and then by bars, handspikes, and
ice-chisels, floated to the surface, and was hooked out by piecemeal. This
operation was a cold and tedious one, and required nine days to complete it.
When the workmen had this morning completed the trench within ten or
twelve feet of the stern, the ship suddenly disengaged herself from the ice to
which she had before been firmly adhering on the larboard side, and rose in
the water about ten inches abaft, and nearly eighteen inches forward, with a
considerable surge. This disengagement, to which the sailors naturally
applied the term “ launching,” confirmed my supposition, that the ship was
held so fast by the ice, as to make it dangerous to alter materially the
stowage of the holds, but in a manner the very reverse of what I had
apprehended. This circumstance, however, on consideration, it was not
difficult to explain. In the course of the winter, the strong eddy winds about
the ships had formed round them a drift of snow, seven or eight feet deep in
some parts, and, perhaps, weighing a hundred tons ; by which the ice, and
the ships with it, were carried down much below the natural level at which
they would otherwise have floated. In the mean time the ships had become
considerably lighter, from the expenditure of several months’ provisions ; so
that, on both these accounts, they had naturally a tendency to rise in the
water as soon as they were set at liberty.

The ships being now once more fairly afloat, I directed a strict and
careful survey to be commenced of all the provisions and stores of every
kind remaining on board each ship, and at the same time the Griper to be
supplied with the quantity which the Hecla had stowed for her, amounting
nearly to the proportion of every kind for twelve months. In the mean
time, a party of hands were occupied in breaking and weighing the stones
for ballast, while others were getting out the sails and boats, and our car-
penters, armourers, coopers, and sail-makers, having each their respective
employments, our little colony now presented the most busy and bustling
scene that can be imagined. It was found necessary to caulk every part of
the upperworks, as well as all the decks, the seams having been so much
opened by the frost, as to require at least one, and in many parts two
threads of oakum, though the ship had scarcely ever laboured at all since

1820.

May.

176

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. she was last caulked. I also at this time laid out a small garden, planting
it with radishes, onions, mustard and cress; and a similar attempt was
made by Lieutenant Liddon : but, notwithstanding every care and attention
which could be paid to it, this experiment may be said to have wholly failed,
the radishes not exceeding an inch in length by the latter end of July, and
the other seeds being altogether thrown away. Not even a single crop of
mustard and cress could be thus raised in the open air ; and our horticulture
was, therefore, once more confined to my cabin, where, at the present mild
temperature of the atmosphere, those two vegetables could be raised without
any difficulty, and in considerable abundance. I may remark, however, that
some common ships’ peas, which were sown by our people for their amuse-
ment, were found to thrive so well, that, had I been sooner aware of it, a
great quantity of the leaves at least of this vegetable might have been grown,
which, when boiled, and eaten as greens, would have been no small treat
to persons deprived of fresh vegetable substance for more than ten months.
It is not improbable also, that, by the assistance of glass, the want of which
deprived us of the opportunity of making the experiment, a great deal more
might have been done in this way, notwithstanding the miserable climate with
which we had to contend.

Sun. 21. About the 21st we began to perceive a daily diminution of the snow upon
the land, the brown soil appearing in patches, where hitherto the snow had

Mon. 22. completely covered it ; and on the 22d, in the course of a walk which we
took to the Table-hill, to the westward of the ships, we had the satisfaction
of being able to fill a pint bottle with water from a small pool of melted snow,
having a quantity of sand mixed with it, a circumstance which we always
found to favour the thawing process. There cannot, perhaps, be a more
striking proof of the extreme severity of the climate of Melville Island than
the fact, that this was the first instance we had known of water, naturally in a
fluid state when exposed to the atmosphere, and unassisted by artificial
means, such as those which I have already described as having occurred in
one or two instances under the ship’s stern, since the middle of the preceding
September, being an interval of more than eight months. The Table-hill,
which is seen at a great distance on the coast, in coming from the eastward,
and which forms a conspicuous object in this country where there is so little
to vary the scene, lies at the distance of five or six miles to the westward of
the station of the ships in Winter Harbour. It rises about a hundred feet
above the level of the plain on which it stands, the top of it not exceeding in

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

177-

extent a quarter of an acre of ground. The surface of it consists generally 1820.
of sand, on which are lying numerous masses of lime-stone, nearly the whole
of which, though varying in colour from white to dark brown, have a fetid
smell when broken ; and many of the specimens contained madrepore. We
found here also a quantity of clay iron-stone, which is common in this part of
Melville Island, together with pieces of flint, granite, and other substances,
which are described in the Appendix. During this excursion, too, we dis-
covered, with pleasure, that the sorrel (Rumex digynus, Linn.) was extremely
abundant in the neighbourhood of the ships, a root or two of this valuable
antiscorbutic plant occurring in almost every tuft of moss which we met with.

No appearance of its beginning to vegetate could yet, however, be perceived ;
and we began to look with impatience for the sprouting of its leaves, from
which we hoped to obtain a supply of fresh vegetable matter, of which, perhaps,
in reality, we all began to stand in need. About two hundred yards to the
westward of this hill is another rather smaller, but very similar in.appearance,
and composed of the same mineral substances as that just described; in
coming from’ the eastward, the second hill is not seen, being hid . behind
the other.

Having considered that an examination of the extent and productions of Tues. 23.
the island might be conducive to the improvement of the geography and
natural history of these regions; and the good state of health enjoyed by
the crews, permitting a certain number of men to be spared from each
ship during their equipment for sea, I now determined to undertake a journey
into the interior, for this purpose, accompanied by a certain number of
officers and men who volunteered their services on the occasion ; and the 1st
of June was fixed for our departure. The Griper’s sick-list had now been
reduced to one person, whose only complaint was debility from a late attack
of scurvy ; and William Scott, whom I have before had occasion to mention,
was the only patient on board the Hecla. The case of this man had been
such as, for some time past, to baffle Mr. Edwards’s endeavours to produce a
favourable change, his complaint appearing to be more mental than corporeal,
and, therefore, one which no medicine could be expected to cure.

Previously to my intended departure, I was occupied in measuring a
base upon the ice across the mouth of the harbour, and in taking the
necessary angles for the survey, which was carried to the eastward be-
yond Fife’s Harbour, principally for the purpose of connecting our obser-
vations here with those obtained by Captain Sabine on the 6th of the pre-

178

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. ceding September, on which the correction of the longitudes observed during
the navigation of 1819, in part depended.

Wed. 24. Early on the morning of the 24th, Mr. Allison reported that he had felt a
few drops of rain fall upon his face, an event which we had scarcely dared to
anticipate so soon, but which was hailed with much satisfaction, as nothing
appears to be so effectual as rain in producing the dissolution of the ice. The
clouds had a watery appearance throughout the day, and at half-past eight in
the evening, we were agreeably surprised by a smart shower of rain, which was
shortly after succeeded by several others. We had been so unaccustomed to
see water naturally in a fluid state at all, and much less to see it fall from the
heavens, that such an occurrence became a matter of considerable curiosity,
and I believe every person on board hastened on deck to witness so interesting
as well as novel a phenomenon. The rain which fell in the course of the
evening, made several little pools upon the^ice, which now remained unfrozen
for twelve or fourteen hours in the day, as did also the sea-water around the
ships. Two ivory gulls ( Larus Ehurneus ) were reported to have been seen in
the course of this day by a party employed in cutting turf on shore.

Sat. 27, I am now to mention an occurrence which took place at this period, and
on which I should gladly be silent, but that it is intimately connected with
the important subject of the health of seamen in this and in every other
climate. It was reported to me, through one or two of the Hecla’s petty-
officers, that one of our seamen, whose name I am unwilling to record, and
who had lately been cured, by the greatest care and attention, of a rather
severe attack of the scurvy, had been in the frequent habit of eating with his
bread a quantity of the skimmings of the water in which salt meat is boiled'
called by the sailors “ slush.” This kind of fat or grease, which is always
understood to be a perquisite of the cooks in His Majesty’s navy, and the use
of which is well-known to be in the highest degree productive of scurvy, had
always been a source of considerable anxiety and apprehension to me during
the voyage. Soon after our leaving England, when the issuing of salt-meat
commenced, I sent for the cook of the Hecla, and, in presence of the officers,
warned him on no account ever to permit a particle of this slush to be used by
the ship’s company ; and, on condition of his faithfully complying with this
injunction, I permitted him, under certain restrictions, to preserve it in casks,
for his own future benefit. With these directions the cook had, I believe,
punctually complied till the middle of the winter ; when he had been gradu-
ally led into a practice of furnishing the people occasionally with a small quan-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

179

tity of fat to burn in their lamps ; of this, the man alluded to, had, it seems,
taken advantage, and used it as an article of diet in the manner described.

Being determined immediately to check so pernicious a practice, I charged
him with his offence in presence of the officers and ship’s company, pointing
out to them, at the same time, the ingratitude with which he had repaid
the care taken of him during his late illness. It gave me great satisfaction
to find that the men were disposed to view this act with a degree of
indignation little short of that which I felt it my duty to express on this
occasion, some of them, as I found, having repeatedly spoken to him before
upon the subject. Having, therefore, directed that the offender should be
punished by wearing upon his back a badge, which would expose him for a
time to the contempt and derision of his shipmates, I felt satisfied that
no future instance would occur of an offence which might prove so fatal to
the cause in which we were engaged. ,

Early on the morning of the 29th, the wind increased to a fresh gale from Mon. 29.
the northward and westward, which continued during the day, with a heavy
fall of snow and a tremendous drift that prevented our seeing to the dis-
tance of more than twenty yards around the ships. The following day being Tues. 30.
fine, I took my travelling party to the top of the north-east hill, in order to
try the cart, which had been constructed for carrying the tents and baggage,
and which appeared to answer very well. The view from this hill was not
such as to offer much encouragement to our hopes of future advancement to
the westward. The sea still presented the same unbroken and continuous
surface of solid and impenetrable ice, and this ice could not be less than from
six to seven feet in thickness, as we knew it to be about the ships. When
to this circumstance was added the consideration, that scarcely the slightest
symptoms of thawing had yet appeared, and that in three weeks from this
period the sun would again begin to decline to the southward, it must be
confessed, that the most sanguine and enthusiastic among us had some
reason to be staggered in the expectations they had formed of the complete
accomplishment of our enterprise.

]820.

May.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of May, 1820.

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-
111 utn.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi*

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

o

+ 17

o

0

+ 8°58

inches.

30.48

inches.

30.31

inches.

30.342

North.

Strong gales to moderate and cloudy.

2

+11

- 1

6.25

30.46

30.39

30.418

North.

Strong breezes and fine.

3

+ 15

+ 2

9.25

30.42

30.39

30.403

C North. ?

1 N.W. 5

Moderate and fine.

4

+ 16

0

7.67

30.41

30.38

30.398

N.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

5

+ 20

+ 2

11.58

30.36

30.26

30.312

North.

Fresh breezes with drift.

6

+ 8.5

- 2

3.83

30.24

30.09

30.155

N.N.W.

Strong breezes and fine.

7

+ 5

- 4

0.79

30.06

29.98

30.007

N.N.AT. North.

Moderate and fine.

8

+ 8

- 2

3.00

29.99

29.98

29.982

North.

Fresh breezes and fine.

9

+ 9

- 1

4.67

30.03

29.93

29.985

North.

Ditto ditto.

10

+ 10

+ 1

5.62

30.07

30.00

30.027

North.

Ditto ditto.

11

+ 10

-1.5

4.17

30.14

30.08

30.113

North.

Ditto ditto.

12

+ 18

- 1

8.62

30.19

30.15

30.168

North.

Light breezes and cloudy.

13

+ 17

- 1

7.62

30.34

30.19

30.262

N.W.

Ditto ditto.

14

+ 17

- 3

7.50

30.41

30.36

30.393

Calm.

Fine clear weather.

15

+ 19.5

- 1

9.42

30.38

30.26

30.317

Calm.

Ditto ditto.

16

+ 24

- 2

12.67

30.23

30.19

30.200

Calm.

Hazy weather.

17

f 29

+ 7

18.50

30.24

30.21

30.228

f North. 1

1 N.W. j

Light breezes and hazy.

18

+ 24

+ 10

18.00

30.31

30.23

30.272

N.W.

Light breezes and fine.

19

+ 25.

+ 10

17.75

30.27

30.24

30.258

North.

Ditto ditto.

20

+ 25

+ 10

16.96

30.20

30.10

30.160

South.

Ditto ditto.

21

+ 29

+ 6

18.83

30.11

29.99

30.025

South.

Ditto ditto.

22

+ 32

+ 12

23.00

30.21

30.02

30.102

South.

Ditto ditto.

23

+ 31

+ 20

27.29

30.30

30.00

30.193

North to S.S.E.

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

24

>38

+ 25

32.71

30.12

29.75

29.893

E.S.E.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

25

+ 40.5

+ 32

36.33

29.99

29.74

29.870

N.W.

Moderate and cloudy.

26

+ 36.5

+ 30

33.04

30.20

30.00

30.122

5 S.S.E. by West?
1 to N.N.W. 5

Light winds and fine.

27

1 + 47

+ 32.5

39.17

30.02

29.93

29.982

South.

Light breezes and cloudy.

28

+ 37

+ 33

34.96

29.81

29.27

29.582

East.

Moderate and cloudy, with rain, hail, and snow.

29

+ 33

+ 24

26.54

29.60

29,25

29.403

N.W.

Strong gales and heavy drift.

30

>38

+ 24

31.08

29.96

29.71

29.853

N.N.W. to W.N.W.

Fresh breezes and fine.

31

+ 35

+ 27

30.92

29.98

29.89

29.933

N.E.

Moderate and hazy with small snow.

+ 47

- 4

+ 16.66

30.48

29.25

30.109

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

181

CHAPTER VIII.

JOURNEY ACROSS MELVILLE ISLAND TO THE NORTHERN SHORE, AND RETURN
TO THE SHIPS BY A DIFFERENT ROUTE.

The weather being favourable on the morning of the 1st of June, I made i820.
such arrangements as were necessary, previous to my departure on our
intended journey. I directed Lieutenants Liddon and Beechey to proceed Thurs. l .
with all possible despatch in the equipment of the ships for sea, having them
ready to sail by the end of June, in order that we might be able to take
advantage of any favourable alteration in the state of the ice at an earlier
period than present appearances allowed us to anticipate.

The party selected to accompany me, out of the numerous volunteers on
this occasion, consisted of Captain Sabine, Messrs. Fisher, Nias, and Reid,
Serjeant M‘Mahon, of the marines, serjeant Martin, of the artillery, and
three seamen and two marines belonging to both ships, making a total of
twelve, including myself. We were supplied with provisions for three weeks,
according to the daily proportion of one pound of biscuit, two-thirds of a
pound of Donkin’s preserved meat, one ounce of salep powder, one ounce of
sugar, and half a pint of spirits, for each man. Two tents, of the kind called
in the army horsemen’s tents, were made of blankets, with two boarding-
pikes, fixed across at each end, and a ridge-rope along the top, which,
with stones laid upon the foot of the blankets, made a very comfortable and
portable shelter. These tents, with the whole of the provisions, together with
a conjuror or cooking apparatus, and a small quantity of wood for fuel, amount-
ing in the whole to eight hundred pounds, were carried upon a strong but light

182

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. cart, constructed for the purpose; this method having been decided on as the
June, most convenient for the country in which we were about to travel.

Each officer and man was also furnished with a blanket made into a bag,
with a drawing-string at each end, a pair of spare shoes and stockings, a
flannel shirt, and a cap to sleep in. The clothing and blankets were carried
on our backs in knapsacks, those of the officers weighing from seventeen to
twenty-four pounds each, and one between every tAvo men weighing twenty-
four pounds, to be carried for half a day alternately. Mr. Dealey, with a party
of three men, was appointed to attend us for the first day’s journey, to assist
in carrying our baggage, and then to return to the ships. It was my intention
to proceed as directly north as possible, and if we came to the sea in that
direction, to turn to the westward, making such a circuit in returning to
Winter Harbour as might occupy from one to three weeks, according to cir-
cumstances. It was proposed to travel entirely at night, if any part of the
twenty-four hours could properly noAV be so called, when the sun was con-
stantly above the horizon. This plan was considered to be advantageous, both
for the sake of sleeping during the warmth of the day, and to avoid, as much
as possible, the glare of the sun upon the snow while travelling.

At five P.M., Ave left the ships, accompanied by a large party of officers
and men from each, Avho Avere desirous of relieving us from the weight of our
knapsacks for an hour or two ; and, having been cheered by the ships on our
departure, Ave went round the head of the harbour, and ascended the north-
east hill. This route Avas chosen on account of the ground being clear of
snoAv only on the ridges and higher parts of the land. Our companions left
us at eight P.M., and we proceeded across a level plain almost entirely
covered Avith snoAv, Avhich, hoAvever, was so hard as to make the travelling
very good ; and the cart Avas dragged along Avithout difficulty. At eleven P.M.,
Ave came to three remarkable round hills, composed entirely of sand and
masses of sandstone, and halted to dine close to the northAvard of them.
Those parts of the land which Avere clear of snow, appeared to be more
productive than those in the immediate neighbourhood of Winter Harbour,
the dwarf-willoAv, sorrel, and poppy (Papave?' Nudicaule), being more abun-
dant, and the moss more luxuriant ; Ave could not, however, collect a suffi-
cient quantity of the slender wood of the Avillow in a dry state, for the pur-
pose of dissolving snow for Avater, and were, therefore, obliged to use a part
of the fuel which Ave had provided for that purpose. The thermometer stood
at 31° at midnight,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

183

Having set off soon after midnight, at the distance of half a mile in aN. b, E. 1820.
direction, we came to a piece of frozen water half a mile in length, and two
hundred yards wide, situated on the south side of the range of hills which
bound the prospect from Winter Harbour. The ice, on the surface of this
lake or pond, was in some parts nearly dissolved, and in all too soft to
allow us to cross it. We here saw a pair of ducks, one of which being
white and the other brown, we supposed them to be of that species called
king ducks {Anas SpectaMlis). We soon after came in sight of an extensive
level space to the north-westward, upon which not a single dark spot could
be distinguished, even with a glass, to break the uniformity of the snow
with which it was covered, till it appeared to terminate in a range of lofty
hills which we had occasionally seen from the southward, and which, from
the appearance given them by their distance, we had called the Blue Hills.

We had, for some time past, entertained an idea, from their bold and
precipitous appearance in some parts, that water would be found at the foot
of them ; and had we not been certain that we had now ascended three or four
hundred feet above the level of Winter Harbour, the appearance of the plain
before us, which resembled a branch of the sea covered with ice, would have
confirmed us in this idea. We halted at half-past six A.M,, and pitched the
tents on the hardest ground we could find, but it became quite swampy in
the course of the day. We killed seven ptarmigan, and saw two plovers
(Charadrius Pluvialis), and two deer, being the first we had met with this season,
with a fawn, so small, as to leave no doubt of its having been dropped since
the arrival of the female upon the island. They were so wild as not to
allow us to approach them within a quarter of a mile. The day was fine
with light and variable airs ; the thermometer stood at 34°, in the shade, at
seven A.M., at which time it was unfortunately broken.

At five P.M., we struck the tents, and having detained one of Mr. Dealey’s
party to accompany us, I despatched him to the ships with the others, and
then continued our journey to the northward, having first made the ne-
cessary observations for determining our position. These and the rest of
our observations for latitude and longitude, obtained during this journey,
were made with a sextant and artificial horizon, and the longitudes are by
the chronometer. No. 2109 of Arnold, which I carried in my pocket.

As we proceeded to the northward, the delusion respecting the level plain
to the westward, began to wear off, some brown spots being here and there
perceptible with a glass, which left no doubt of its being principally, if not

184.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

June.

Sat. 3.

entirely, land. Beyond this plain, however, there was a piece of bold land
in the distance, having every appearance of an island, lying between the
Blue Hills on the north, and some high land to the south. There was a
bright and dazzling ice-blink over the plain of snow, and exactly correspond-
ing with it, as to extent and position.

Having halted three hours to dine and rest, we again set forward at
two A.M., on the 3d, crossing one or two ravines, running E.N.E. and
W.S.W,, in which there was a large collection of snow, but as yet no
appearance of water in the bottom of them. Captain Sabine and myself being
considerably a-head of the rest of the party, had sat down to wait for
them, when a fine rein-deer came trotting up, and played round us for
a quarter of an hour, within thirty-yards. We had no gun, nor do I
know that we should have killed it, if we had, there being already as much
weight upon the cart as the men could well drag; and having no fuel to
spare for cooking ; besides, we felt it would have been but an ill return for
the confidence Avhich he seemed willing to place in us. On hearing our people
talking on the opposite side of the ravine, the deer immediately crossed
over, and went directly up to them, with very little caution ; and, they
being less scrupulous than we were, one or two shots were immediately
fired at him, but without effect; on which he again crossed over to where
Ave Avcre sitting, approaching us nearer than before. As soon as we rose up
and Avalked on, he accompanied us like a dog, sometimes trotting a-head
of us, and then returning within forty or fifty yards. When Ave halted, at six
A.M., to make the usual observations, he remained by us till the rest of the
party came up, and then trotted off. The rein-deer is by no means a
graceful animal ; its high shoulders and an awkward stoop in its head, giving
it rather a deformed appearance. Our neAV acquaintance had no horns;
he Avas of a broAvnish colour, Avith a black saddle, a broad, black rim
round the eyes, and very Avhite about the tail. We observed that, whenever
he Avas about to set off, he made a sort of playful gambol, by rearing on his
hind legs.

The latitude observed here was 75° 06' 58", the longitude 110° 30' 32", and
the variation of the magnetic needle 128° 30' 14" easterly. We had passed,
during our last march, a good deal of rich soil, consisting principally of
decayed moss and other vegetable substance mixed with sand ; and the sorrel
and saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) were more abundant than before.

A fog, which had prevailed during the early part of the day, having cleared

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

185

away in the afternoon, we struck the tents at five P.M., and having travelled 1820.
three quarters of a mile, came to a ravine not less than a hundred feet deep,
and in most parts nearly perpendicular. A place was at length found in which
the cart could be got across, which we succeeded in effecting, through very
deep snow, after an hour’s labour. On the north side of this ravine large
masses of sand-stone were lying on the surface of the ground, over which the
cart could with difficulty be dragged ; and we remarked on this, and several
other occasions, that the stones which were bruised by the wheels emitted a
strong smell, like that of fetid limestone when broken, though we could never
discover any of that substance. In some of the sand-stone we found pieces
of coal embedded ; and some large pieces of a slaty kind of that mineral,
which burned indifferently, were also picked up in the ravine.

We had hitherto, as we judged, rather ascended than otherwise since
leaving the north-east-hill of Winter Harbour, and the height of this part
of the island may be estimated at three or four hundred feet above the level
of the sea. At two miles and a quarter to the northward of the ravine, we
entered upon a snowy plain, of which we could not see the termination to the
northward. Here and there only we came to a small patch of uncovered
land, on one of which we observed the sand and sand-stone to be tinged of a
light brick colour. We halted to dine before midnight, having made good,
by our account, a distance of only five miles, and that with difficulty, the snow
being soft, which made travelling very laborious. W e found here nothing but
two small pools of dirty water, but, as it was of importance to save our wood in
case of accidents, we went on an allowance of half a pint of this water each,
rather than expend any of it in melting snow, a process requiring more fuel
than perhaps those who have never made the experiment are aware of. There
was no vegetation in this place, even the poppy having now forsaken us.

At two o’clock on the morning of the 4th we continued our journey to the Sun. 4.
northward, over the same snowy and level plain as before, than which it is
impossible to conceive any thing more dreary and uninteresting. It frequently
happened that, for an hour together, not a single spot of uncovered ground
could be seen. The few patches of this kind forcibly reminded one of the
description given of the oases in the deserts of Africa, not only because they
relieved us for a time from the intense glare of the sun upon the snow, which
was extremely oppressive to the eyes, but because it was on these alone that
we could pitch our tents to rest, or that we could expect to meet with any
water. The breeze freshened up to a gale from the S.S.E. as we proceeded,

■2 B

186

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

June.

and the men, as if determined not to forget that they were sailors, set a large
blanket upon the cart as a sail, which, upon the present level ground, was
found to be of material assistance. The snow was deep, and rather soft,
which made the travelling h^ayy ; and as the wind produced a good deal of
snow-drift, most of the bare patches of ground became covered up, so that
when our time for halting had arrived, not a piece of ground could be seen
on which to pitch the tents. Captain Sabine and myself went forward to look
out for a spot, and at length were fortunate to meet with one, on which there
was just room for our little encampment. It was with some difficulty, by
building a wall with stones and our knapsacks, that we prevented its being
covered with snow before the party came up, which they did at half-past
seven A.M., having travelled ten miles in a N.W.b.N. direction. We saw a
few fox-tracks, but no animals, nor the smallest symptom of vegetation,
during this march. It is not improbable, however, that these snowy plains,
when uncovered by the warmth of summer, may present a more luxuriant
vegetation than is elsewhere to be met with on this island.

By the time we had secured the tents the wind blew hard, with a continued
fall as well as drift of snow, so that we could not but consider ourselves for-
tunate in having met with a spot of ground in good time. Notwithstanding
the inclemency of the weather, we found the tents afford us very comfortable
and sufficient shelter, the cart being tilted up to windward of them, so as to
break in some measure the violence of the wind ; and when wrapped up, or rather
enclosed in our blanket-bags, we were generally quite warm enough to enjoy
the most sound and refreshing repose. I may here notice, once for all, that
the moment the tents were pitched, however short the time for which it was
proposed to halt, every man was directed immediately to change his shoes and
stockings, and at the same time had his feet examined by Mr. Fisher. As it
froze hard every night, we used only to get our things dried during the noon
halting, so that we were always under the necessity of putting on the same
wet boots and stockings after resting at midnight. This was the only way to
make certain of dry stocking? for sleeping in, and as we were sure to be wet
in half an hour after starting, our putting on wet ones to walk in was of little
consequence. I insist the more on this circumstance, because it is to our at-
tention to these precautions that I attribute the good health we enjoyed
during the journey. To this, indeed, we had one exception. Captain Sabine
having suffered some uneasiness from indigestion, in consequence of having
eaten some of the salep-powder badly mixed ; but by attention to his diet,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

187

together with a little medicine, the complaint was soon removed. It is scarcely 1820.
possible perhaps to imagine the comfort which was afforded in this instance
by the small quantity of fuel we were provided with, as it enabled us to
furnish Captain Sabine with one or two warm messes which chiefly contri-
buted to his recovery ; and we, therefore, determined to use no more of our
wood except under similar circumstances.

It continued to blow and snow till seven P.M., when the wind having
veered to the S.W., and beconie more moderate, we struck the tents ; and
having now placed the men’s knapsacks on the cart to enable them to drag
with greater facility, we proceeded on our journey to the northward. We
passed a narrow but deep ravine lying across our course, in some parts of
which the snow reached nearly to a level with the banks, forming a kind of
bridges or causeways, on one of which we crossed without difficulty. The
men had hoisted one sail upon the cart at first setting off; but the wind being
now, as they expressed it, “ on the larboard quarter,” a second blanket was
rigged as a main-sail, to their great amusement as well as relief.

After crossing a second ravine, on the north side of which the ground rose
considerably, we entered upon another snowy plain, where there was nothing
to be seen in any direction but snow and sky. To make it the more dreary,
a thick fog came on as the night advanced, and as this prevented our taking
any mark more than fifty or a hundred yards a-head, we had to place the
compass, by which we were now entirely travelling, upon the ground every
five minutes ; and as it traversed with great sluggishness, we made a
very crooked and uncertain course. For more than two hours we did not
pass a single spot of uncovered ground, nor even a stone projecting above
the snow.

The weather being at length too foggy to proceed, we sat down on our Mon. 5.
knapsacks for a short time, and then continued our journey, the fog being
somewhat less thick. At one A.M. we came to a few large stones sticking
up above the snow, and as the people were a good deal fatigued, and I was
at the same time desirous not to run the risk whkh might be incurred by
suffering them to lie upon the snow, we determined to try what could be
done in picking out the stones, one by one, and paving a spot for the tents
over it. This plan succeeded, and after an hour’s work we completed a dry,
though hard flooring for our encampment. This being properly our dinner-
time for the 4th of June, though our meal had been unavoidably delayed
beyond that day, we did not forget to drink His Majesty’s health in both

2 B 2

188

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. tents, not aware at the time that our venerable Monarch had many months
before paid the debt of nature.

The fog continued too thick to allow us to move till six A.M., at which
time we resumed our journey. There was a broad and distinct haze-bow of
very white and dazzling light directly opposite the sun. The weather being
still too foggy to see more than a quarter of a mile a-head, it was with con-
siderable difficulty that we could proceed on a tolerably straight course. To
effect this, it was necessary to determine the point on which we were walking
by the bearing of the sun, which was still visible, and the apparent time, and then
to take a mark a-head by which our course was to be directed. Prom the thick-
ness of the weather, however, it was necessary to repeat this operation every five
or ten minutes, which, together with the uniform whiteness and intense glare of
the snow, became so extremely painful to the eyes, that Mr. Fisher and myself,
who went a-head as guides, soon became affected with snow-blindness, and
the headmost man at the cart, whose business it was constantly to watch
our motions, began to suffer in a similar manner, and from the same cause.
We had now also frequent occasion to experience — what had so often occurred
to us during the winter, — the deception occasioned in judging of the magni-
tudes, and consequently the distances of objects, by seeing them over an un-
varied surface of snow ; this deception was now so much increased by the
thickness of the fog, that it frequently happened that, just as we had con-
gratulated ourselves on having pitched upon a mark at a sufficient distance
to relieve us from the necessity of straining our eyes .for a quarter of
an hour, we suddenly came up to it ; and were obliged to search, and often
in vain, for another mark, at no great distance, and subject to the same
delusion.

It may, perhaps, be conceived, then, under these circumstances, how
pleasing was the relief afforded by our seeing, at eight A.M., a stripe of
black or uncovered land a-head, which proved to be the bank of a ravine
fifty or sixty feet deep, and three hundred yards wide, on the north side of
which we pitched the tents, having made good only one mile and a half,
the snow being so soft and deep as to make it difficult to drag the cart through
it. This ravine was full of innumerable masses of sand-stone, besides which
we could not find a single mineral substance of any other kind. By removing
any of these, we found abundance of pure water, which tempted us to take
this opportunity of cooking the grouse we had killed, on which we made a
most sumptuous meal before we retired to rest.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

189

The latitude observed here was 75° 22' 43", and the longitude, by the 1820.
chronometer, 111° 14' 26", in which situation a cylinder of tin, containing an
account of our visit, was deposited under a pile of stones eight feet high,
and seven feet broad at the base. At half past five P.M. we continued our
march in a north-easterly direction, the wind being moderate from the S.S.E.,
with fine weather. Another of our party complained of snow-blindness,
which always continued to be very painful during the time we were walking,
but was generally relieved by the usual cool bathing and a few hours’ rest.

Our people were all supplied with crape veils, which, I believe, saved us a
good deal of uneasiness from this complaint.

On leaving the ravine, where we had last halted, we had entered on
another snowy plain similar to those I have before described; and, after
travelling several miles over it without a single object to produce variety, or
to excite interest, came at length to a rising ground at half past eleven, from
which we descried some dark-coloured ground to the north-eastward, and
shortly after some higher land at a considerable distance beyond it, in the
same direction. The intermediate space looked like a sea covered with ice,
or a very level snowy plain, and we were once more puzzled to know which
of these two it would prove. Having reached a good dry spot for the tents,
with plenty of water in the neighbourhood, we halted at midnight, having
marched seven miles and a half in a N. b. E. direction by account, but much
more easterly by subsequent observations. I cannot help remarking in this
place how extremely liable to error any account must necessarily be of the
course and distance made good during even a single day on a journey of this
nature. We had long been in the habit of deducing all our bearings and
courses on board the ships astronomically, that is, by the azimuth of the sun
and the apparent time ; and when I set out on this journey I had conceived
that this habit would have enabled me to make tolerably certain at least of
the direction in which our daily journey had been performed, whenever
the sun should be visible. That this was by no means the case, though every
possible attention was paid to it, will appear clear from an inspection of our
track upon the map, which is laid down by the actual observations of two
separate persons from day to day, and in which no material error could have '
occurred. My reason for dwelling upon this circumstance is to point out the
extreme liability to error in laying down by account the position of any point
at which a traveller may arrive after a journey of several hundred miles. This
remark I cannot but consider to be peculiarly applicable to the journey of

190

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. Hearne from the Hudson’s Bay settlements to the shores of the Polar Sea, on
the northern coast of America, in many hundred miles of which, and particularly
in the most interesting part, not a single observation for latitude and longi-
tude, or the variation of the magnetic needle, was obtained, whereby his
daily estimate could be corrected. Should, therefore, the geographical
position assigned by Hearne to the Copper-mine River be found at all near
the truth, more especially in longitude, it will prove an extraordinary instance
of the tendency of errors to correct each other ; such as, I believe, does not
often occur, when the distance gone over is so considerable, either by sea
or land.

Taes. 6. The wind increased to a fresh breeze from the S.S.E. with a sharp frost,
making it very cold in the tents, which we therefore struck at four A.M., and
at the distance of half a mile came to the summit of a hill overlooking what
appeared to be a frozen sea before us. The distant high land beyond it to
the north-east, now appeared a separate island, which it afterwards proved
to be, and which I named after my friend and fellow-traveller. Captain
Edward Sabine, of the Royal Artillery. The brow of this hill, which, from
the best estimate I could form, appeared to be from four to five hundred feet
above the level of the sea, was covered with large masses of sandstone, over
which we could scarcely get the wheels of the cart. We then descended the
hill, with the intention of pushing forward to determine whether the white
and level space before us was the sea or not. We had not proceeded far,
however, when the clouds began to gather heavily in the south-east, and
shortly after snow and sleet began to fall. Being unwilling, therefore,
to allow the men’s clothes to be wet, when there was no absolute occasion
for it, we halted on a piece of dry ground, and, having built a wall six
feet high to shelter us from the weather, pitched the tents very comfortably
under the lee of it, till the weather should allow us to proceed.

We here saw one or two flocks of geese, which, to judge from those which we
afterwards killed, were probably brent-geese (AnasBernida), and were the first
living animals we had met with for two or three days. We had occasionally,
during that time, seen upon the snow the tracks of a solitary deer, but even
these seemed now to have deserted a place so totally devoid of vegetation, that
for miles together we scarcely met with a tuft of moss or a single poppy on
which they could have fed. The tracks of foxes and mice were also occa-
sionally seen, but we did not meet with any of these animals in this dreary and
uninteresting part of our journeys

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

191

At six P.M., the wind having gradually got round to the N.N.E., and the wea-
ther being more clear and cold, I set out, accompanied by Messrs. Nias and
Reid, and a quarter-master of the Griper, with the intention of examining the
situation and appearance of the sea to the northward ; leaving the rest of the
party, several of whom were suffering from snow-blindness, though otherwise
in good health, to remain quietly in the tents till our return. Having tra-
velled N.N.W. a mile and a half through much deep snow, of which a good
deal had fallen during the day, we came to some ice thrown up on the beach,
having cracks in it parallel to the line of the shore, which we immediately
recognised to be of the same kind as those to which we had so long been
accustomed in Winter Harbour, and which are occasioned by the rise and fall
of the tide. Such, however, was the sameness in the appearance of the sea
and of the low shelving shore interposed for two or three miles between it
and the hill we had descended in the morning, that, had it not been for the
circumstance I have just mentioned, we should still have been in great doubt
respecting the nature of the level space to the northward. The place where
we came to the sea happened to be near the outlet of a ravine, and the upper
surface of the ice was here covered with pools of fresh water, which had
probably been formed by the streams from the ravine, and which at a little
distance appeared, as usual, of a beautiful blue colour. We turned to the
westward along the beach, and at the distance of two miles ascended a point
of land in that direction, from whence we had a commanding view of the
objects around us. As soon as we had gained the summit of this point, which
is about eighty feet above the sea, and was named after Mr. Nias, we had an
additional confirmation that it was the sea which we had now reached, the
ice being thrown up on the beach under the point, and as far as we could
see to the westward, in large high irregular masses, exactly similar to those
which had so often afforded us anchorage and shelter upon the southern
shores of the island. Being desirous, however, of leaving nothing uncertain
respecting it, we walked out a few hundred yards upon the ice, and began
with a boarding-pike and our knives, which were all the tools we had, to
dig a hole in it, in order to taste the water beneath. After nearly two
hours’ labour, however, we could only get down as many feet, the ice being
very hard, brittle, and transparent ; more so, as we imagined, than salt-
water ice usually is, which made us the more desirous to get through it. I,
therefore, determined to return to our people, and to remove our encamp-
ment to Point Nias, for the purpose of completing the hole through the ice

1820.

June.

192

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. with all our hands, while we were obtaining the necessary observations

June. ,

on shore.

Wed. 7. On our return to the tents, we dined, and rested till one o’clock on the
morning of the 7th, when we set out for the Point, at which we did not arrive
till half-past four, the snow being here so deep as to make the cart an
improper, and, indeed, almost impracticable, mode of conveying our bag-
gage. It froze all day in the shade, with a fresh breeze from the north, and
though the tents were pitched under the lee of the grounded ice upon the
beach, we found it extremely cold ; all the pools of water were frozen hard
during the night, and some of our canteens burst from the same cause. The
people were allowed to rest after their supper till four P.M., and were then
set to work upon the ice, and in building a monument on the top of the
Point.

The latitude observed here was 75° 3T 47", the longitude 110° 35' 52', and
the variation of the magnetic needle 135° 03' 55 " Easterly. A series of angles
and astronomical bearings was here obtained for the survey of the coast, and
for determining the position of Sabine Island, the north-western point of
which, being a bluff headland, was, by Captain Sabine’s desire, named after
Colonel Mudge, of tlie Royal Artillery, one of the Commissioners of Longi-
tude. The land to the westward of Point Nias, sweeps round into a large
bay, terminating to the north-westward, in a bold Cape bearing N. 43° W.,
and distant from six to eight leagues, which I named after Mr. Fisher. The
easternmost part of Melville Island, here visible, was a low projecting point
bearing S. 77° E., and distant eight or nine miles, which was called Point
Reid, after the gentleman of that name, who accompanied us.

A continuous line of very large hummocks of ice extended from Point
Nias, about two miles and a half in a N.N.E. direction ; they were the kind
of hummocks which always indicate the ice having met with resistance by
grounding ; and I have little doubt that a reef is clearly marked out by
them. What makes this more probable is, that in the whole space between
Points Nias and Reid, the ice near the shore seemed never to have been
disturbed by any pressure upon it, being, perhaps, defended by the reef
from the floes coming in from the north-west; while the whole of the
shore, as far as I could see with a glass, to the westward of Point Nias,
bore evident marks of that tremendous pressure, which is produced by
fields of ice when set in motion.

The floe of ice proved to be fourteen feet four inches in thickness, and it

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

193

was ten at night before our people got through it, so as to admit the water; 1820.
it then flowed up within fifteen inches of the upper surface of the ice, by
which some idea may be formed of the specific gravity of the latter. The
water was not very salt, owing probably to its acquiring a degree of fresh-
ness, in forcing itself through an aperture so small as to require three
quarters of an hour to fill up the hole to its proper level ; a small quantity
of it, however, was sufficient to convince each of us, that it was the sea upon
which we were standing, and a canteen was filled, in order to try its specific
gravity on our return to the ships. The thickness of the ice on this coast,
as compared with that in Winter Harbour, the former being double that of
the other, may at first sight appear to be an indication of a more severe
climate on this than on the southern coast of Melville Island ; but this cir-
cumstance is easily accounted for by observing, that the ice of a harbour
is, as we know by experience, the formation of a single winter ; whereas, on
an open and exposed beach, like that of Point Nias, the last year’s, or sea-
ice, is at liberty to fix itself in the autumn, forcing up the masses which
we see aground in all such situations, and increasing, in the course of the
ensuing winter, to the thickness which we here found it to be. Had we
accidentally come to any bay or harbour, secure from the access of the floes
from without, and of the same depth as Winter Harbour, I doubt not we
should have found the ice in it of nearly the same thickness.

We saw nothing living in this spot, except a flock of five or six ducks,
none of which were killed. There was scarcely any thing, except a little
stunted moss and some lichens, which deserved the name of vegetation ; and
the only exception to the tiresome monotony of sandstone which had occurred
for many days past, consisted in two or three pieces of red granite, and
of red and white feldspar, which several hours’ search enabled us to find.

Two pieces of drift-wmod were also found upon the beach, from ten to
twenty feet above the present level of the sea; they were both pine, one of
them being seven feet and a half long, and three inches in diameter, and the
other much smaller. They were both partly buried in the sand, and the
fibres were so much decayed and separated, as to fall to pieces upon being
taken hold of.

We dined at midnight; and at half past one A.M., on the 8th, struck Thurs.
the tents, and drew the cart to the higher part of the Point, where we oc-
eupied two hours in completing our monument, which is of a conical form,
twelve feet broad at the base, and as many in height. Within it were deposited

2 C .

194

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. a tin cylinder, containing an account of the party who had left it, and one
or two silver and copper English coins. This monument may be seen at
several miles’ distance from the sea or land side ; and, as great pains were
taken by Mr. Fisher in constructing it, it may probably last for a long period
of years.

Having now satisfactorily determined the extent of Melville Island to the
northward upon this meridian, which corresponds v^ery nearly with that of
Winter Harbour, and finished all the requisite observations, I proposed pursu-
ing our journey towards the Blue Hills, which were still in sight at the distance
of several leagues to the westward ; and having advanced to the south-west as
long as circumstances should appear to make it interesting or practicable, to
return by a circuitous route to the ships. We travelled in a W. | S. direction,
in order to keep on a ridge along the coast, which afforded the only tolerable
walking, the snow being very deep on the lower parts of the land. We had
to-day frequent occasion again to notice a strong smell produced by the
wheels of the cart going over the blocks of sand-stone, similar to that of fetid
lime-stone when recently fractured. We halted at half past seven A.M. on a
fine sandy ground, which gave us the softest, as well as the driest, bed which
we had yet experienced on our journey, and which was situated close to a little
hillock of earth and moss, so full of the burrows of hares as to resemble a
warren. We tried to smoke them out by burning port-fire, but none ap-
peared ; and it is remarkable that, though we constantly met with the dung
of these animals, especially in this place, where it occurred very abundantly,
we never saw one of them during the journey. As soon as we had halted,
we found that Mr, Reid’s knapsack had dropped off the cart ; he had, there-
fore, to go back to look for it, and did not return till eleven o’clock, being so
much affected by snow-blindness as to be scarcely able to see his way to the
tents. This circumstance was sufficient to shew the advantage, and even the
necessity, of travelling entirely by night under these circumstances, the
intense glare of light from the snow during the day inevitably producing
this painful irritation in the eyes. Our present station, which was about half-
a-mile distant from the sea, commanding an open view of Sabine Island and
Cape Fisher, and the weather being very clear for observations, a short base
was obtained for the survey, between this and Point Nias. The only birds
we saw here were a pair of ptarmigans, which were killed by Mr. Fisher.
There was some moss, and a few short tufts of grass ; and we found, for the
first time this season, the Saxifraga Oppositifolia coming out in flower, a

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

195

remark which I afterwards found to occur in the Hecla’s Meteorological
Journal at Winter Harbour on the following day.

At a quarter past five P.M. we resumed our journey to the south-west, and
soon after crossed a snowy plain a mile and a quarter in breadth, extending
to the sea to the north, and as far as the eye could reach to the south. When
we had travelled five miles, we began to ascend considerably, and were now
entering upon the Blue Hills, the higher parts of which, however, were three
or four leagues distant to the westward of us. Having travelled S.W. b. W.
seven miles, we halted, at half-an-hour before midnight, at the distance of
three or four miles from the sea, the weather being very clear and fine, with
a moderate breeze from the S.S.W. During the last march we passed
over much uneven ground, of which a great deal was extremely wet;
moss, saxifrage, and short tufts of grass here became more abundant, and,
interspersed among the former, some sorrel began to make its appear-
ance. One or two pieces of red granite, and some of feldspar, were all that
occurred in this way to repay the tedious search which we had for many days
been making to discover any thing but sand-stone.

Having rested, after our dinner, till half-past two A.M., we set out again Frid. 9.
to the south-west, making, however, a very crooked course on account of the
irregularity of the ground. Although this circumstance made the travelling
somewhat more laborious, we were glad to be among the hills,* being heartily
tired of the sameness which the snowy plains and low grounds present. In
the first quarter of a mile, we passed the first running stream which we had
seen this season, and this was but a small one, from six to twelve inches deep.

The ground as well as the pools of water was frozen hard during the
last night, but thawed during the day, which made travelling worse and
worse as the sun acquired power. We passed a few deers’ horns, killed
three ptarmigans, and saw a pair of ducks. The plumage of the cock-grouse
was still quite white, except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were
of a fine glossy black ; but in every hen which we had lately killed, a very
perceptible alteration was apparent, even from day to day, and their plumage
had now nearly assumed that speckled colour which, from its resemblance to
that of the ground, is so admirably adapted to preserve them from being seen
at the season of their incubation. We found it difficult in general to get near
the hens, which were very wild; but the male birds were at all times stupidly
tame. Serjeant Martin, who was well acquainted with birds, reported having
seen a pair of bank-swallows (Jlirundo RipariaJ, We halted at seven A.M.,

2 C 2

1820.

June.

196

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. having made only three or four miles, and found abundance of water, which
allowed us the comfort of washing our flannel shirts, and putting on clean
ones. From this time, indeed, we had rather more water than we wanted,
the abundance of it making a great deal of swampy ground, through which
the cart was dragged with great difficulty. The latitude observed at this
station was 75° 26' 43'', the longitude by chronometer being 111° 22' 41".

We pursued our journey at half-past five P.M., and found the ground ex-
tremely wet and swampy, which made the walking very laborious ; but we
remarked that our feet always came to the frozen ground at the depth of eight
or ten inches, even in those parts which were the most soft. At the distance
of two miles and a half, we came to a ravine of which the principal branch,
being not less than a quarter of a mile wide, took a N.N.E. and S.S.W. di-
rection, and had a considerable stream of water running to the northward.
Another branch from the S.E., which we crossed, was three hundred yards
wide, and was as yet quite dry at the bottom. As the night came on, the
weather became overcast, and a good deal of snow fell ; from which, however,
the people were sheltered by the sail which a fresh northerly wind once
more enabled them to set on the cart. Two other ravines occurred within
three quarters of a mile, apparently connected with the large one, and which
it required our utmost exertion to cross, the water being higher than our knees
in the middle, -and the whole of the sides of the ravine covered with deep
and soft snow, into which the wheels of the cart sunk nearly to the axle, so
that we could only get it across by what sailors call a “ standing pull.” The
men having got their trowsers wet, we continued our journey till half-past
eleven, to give them a chance of drying, and then halted, having only tra-
velled four miles in a S.W. direction. We met with abundance of sorrel in
some parts of this journey ; its leaves were as yet scarcely the size of a six-
pence, and almost entirely red. A few ptarmigans and a couple of geese were
all the living animals seen, but we passed several tracks and horns of deer.

Sat. 10. At half-past two A.M., on the 10th, we struck the tents, and proceeded to
the S.W’., the wind having got round to the S.E., with continued snow. At
the distance of two miles we entered upon a level plain three miles wide,
which, Avith the exception of a patch here and there, was entirely covered
with snow. The uncovered parts of this plain were so wet as to be almost
impassable for the cart ; and we were now as desirous of keeping on the snow
as, at the beginning of our journey from Winter Harbour, we had been
anxious to avoid it. The plain terminated by a ravine, on the south bank of

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

197

which, finding good ground for the tents, and plenty of water, we halted at 1820.
a quarter-past seven, being in latitude by observation 75° 20' 54", the longi-
tude by account 111° 42' 15".

The weather continued hazy, with snow occasionally, but our clothes
dried in the sun towards noon; soon after which, however, the snow
became more thick and constant, so that we could scarcely see a hun-
dred yards around the tents. We waited for some time in hope of the
weather clearing, and then, at a quarter past five, continued our journey;
as we were under the necessity, however, of directing our course entirely
by compass, which is here a very uncertain and deceitful guide, we made
but a slow and tedious progress. The wind freshened up to a gale from the
S.E. soon after we had set out, which made it impossible for us any longer
to pursue our journey, and we began to look out for a spot on which the
tents could be pitched, so as to afford us a dry flooring, if not shelter,
during the gale. Having crossed three ravines within a mile and a quarter,
we at length came to a very deep one, which was nearly perpendicular
on each side, with the snow over-hanging in some parts, so as to make
it dangerous to go near the edge of the bank. We were at length for-
tunate in finding a narrow, sloping ridge of snow, leading down to the
bottom of the ravine, and having descended this with some difficulty, we
found such good shelter as to determine me to halt here for the night,
which now became more and more inclement. The bottom of the ravine,
in which there was not much water, abounded with schistose sandstone,
with which a dry and comfortable flooring was soon paved for the tents,
taking care to pitch them at a sufficient distance from the north bank of the
ravine, under which a number of large masses of snow were lying, which
had lately fallen from the over-hanging part of the cliff, not less than eighty
or a hundred feet perpendicular in this place.

The weather continued very inclement during the night, but we were soSun.ii.
well sheltered, as to be very comfortable in the tents, which answered every
purpose for which they were intended, and without which no warmth
could have been obtained while resting. I may also here remark, that
the mode we had adopted with the blankets, of making them into bags,
appeared the warmest, and in every respect the most comfortable as well as con-
venient which could have been devised. The wind gradually veered to the
N.N.W. in the morning, and the weather having cleared up about half-past
four, we struck the tents, and set off to the southward. The south bank of the

198

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. ravine being nearly as steep, and much higher than the other, it was with
considerable labour and difficulty that we were able to get the cart up it,
in which, however, we succeeded by six o’clock, when we found that we
were travelling on much higher ground than before, overlooking that which
we had left the preceding evening. Having proceeded four miles over a level
country, with much snow upon it, we suddenly and unexpectedly came in
sight of the sea, or a late, at the distance of two or three miles before
us, just appearing between two high and steep hills which terminated a
deep and broad ravine. In a short time, we opened out an island, which
was soon recognised to be the same which we had seen to the eastward of
us, on our Journey to the north, and which we now found to be situated in
this lake or gulf. We hastened forward to the point of the nearest hill,
from whence the prospect was extremely grand and picturesque. We
were looking down nearly perpendicular from a height of eight or nine
hundred feet, on an extensive plain of ice, of which, to the westward,
we could perceive no termination for a distance of five or six leagues,
the prospect to the eastward being obstructed by other hills. A thick
mist or vapour was at times carried rapidly along by the wind over this
ice, to which it was entirely confined, occasionally covering the top of
the island with a dense cloud. The impression made upon our minds at the
time was, that it was a frozen lake on which we were now looking, but this
conjecture, as it afterwards appeared, proved erroneous. The ravine at which
we had arrived discharges its waters into a snug cove two or three miles deep,
which was named after Mr. Bushnan, and at the head of which we now pro-
posed resting, if a place could be found at which our descent into the ravine
could be effected. The sides of the ravine, which were very steep, were
covered with innumerable blocks of sandstone of every size and shape, over
which alone any road could be found to the cove below. It was necessary,
therefore, to make the attempt, but it was impossible for the best built carriage
to travel long on such a road; and when we had half descended the bank,
which led into the ravine on its north side, the axle-tree broke short in
the middle. The baggage was therefore taken off, and carried down to
the bottom, where the tents were pitched at eleven A.M., the wheels being
left where the cart broke down, as sound as at first.

The latitude observed here was 75° 12' 50", the longitude, by chrono-
meter, 111° 50' 05", and the variation of the magnetic needle 125° 12' 22"
Easterly. The wind being fresh from the W.N.W., and the weather being

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

199

cold and raw, we built a wall to windward of the tents, as a substitute for i820.
the usual shelter afforded by the cart; after supper, the people being a
good deal fatigued, were allowed to rest till near midnight, and then em-
ployed in arranging the baggage, so as to carry it on our shoulders for the
rest of the journey. We saw here a great number of brent-geese, some
ptarmigan, and many snow-buntings ; the constant and cheerful note of the
latter reminded us of a better country. The Avood which composed the light
frame-work of the cart being now disposable as fuel, we were glad to make
use of it in cooking a few ptarmigan, which afforded us another sumptuous
meal. It is not, perhaps, easy for those who have never experienced it, to
imagine how great a-luxury any thing warm in this way becomes, after living
entirely upon cold provisions for some time in this rigid climate. This
change was occasionally the more pleasant to us, from the circumstance of
the preserved meats, on which we principally lived, being generally at this
time hard frozen, when taken out of the canisters.

Having finished our arrangements with respect to the baggage, which Mon. 12.
made it necessary that each of the men should carry between sixty and
seventy pounds, and the officers from forty to fifty ; we struck the tents at
half-past two on the morning of the 12th, and proceeded along the eastern
shore of the Cove, towards a point which forms the entrance on that side.

The rocks above us, which here approach the sea within fifty yards, were
composed of sandstone in horizontal strata ; and, in many parts of the cliffs
which overlook the Cove, their appearance resembled more the ruins of
buildings than the work of nature. Large fragments of stones which had
fallen from above, were strewed about at the base of these precipicess
filling up nearly the whole space between them and the beach. The head
of Bushnan Cove is one of the pleasantest and most habitable spots we
had yet seen in the Arctic Regions, the vegetation being more abundant
and forward than in any other place, and the situation sheltered and favour-
able for game. We found here a good deal of moss, grass, dwarf- willow,
and saxifrage, and Captain Sabine met with a ranunculus in full flower.

We arrived at the Point at five o’clock, and as we could now perceive that
the lake or gulf extended a Considerable distance to the eastward, as well
as to the westward, and that it would require a long time to go round in
the former direction, I determined to cross it on the ice ; and as the distance
to the opposite shore seemed too great for one journey, the snow being
soft upon the ice, first to visit the island, and having rested there, to proceed

200

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. to the southward. Having walked five miles in a S.S.W. direction, we landed
at seven A.M., near the south-east part of the island, which I named after
my friend Mr. Hooper. We had now little doubt that we had been tra-
velling over a gulf of the sea, as we had not seen any land enclosing it to the
westward, for more than two points of the compass, the weather being
very clear ; but, as nothing could make this absolutely certain but tasting
the salt-water, I had just signified my intention of occupying the rest of the
day in digging a hole through the ice for this purpose, when one of the party
having gone to a pool on the floe for some water to drink, found it to be
quite salt, and thus saved us any further trouble or doubt respecting it.
The wind was fresh from the westward, and the tents were pitched near the
beach, under the lee of the high part of the island. Captain Sabine and
myself, having ascended to the top, which is on the east side from five to six,
and on the west, about seven hundred feet above the sea, and in many
parts nearly perpendicular, we had a commanding view of this fine
gulf, which I named after my much-esteemed friend and brother-officer.
Lieutenant Liddon. The entrance of the gulf to the westward was now
very apparent, the head-lands which appeared to terminate its north and
south shores, being distant from us from five to seven leagues. I named
them after Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, and their astronomical bear-
ings were S. 86° W., and S. 65° W. respectively.

The north shore of Liddon’s Gulf, being the termination of the Blue Hills
to the south-west, is high, bold and precipitous as far to the eastward as
Bushnan Cove, and its formation appeared, with a glass, to be the same as in
that neighbourhood; beyond this, to the eastward, the land becomes low,
and the gulf takes a bend to the north-east. In this direction we could not
distinguish its extent, but we must have passed at no great distance from the
head of it on the 4th. A bluff cape on this shore, which is seen very
conspicuously on a clear day from the Table-hill of Winter Harbour, was
named after Mr. Edwards, who had been the first among us to conjecture
from its appearance, that water would be found at its foot. Immediately to
the westward of Cape Edwards the land recedes, forming a bay, called
Barry’s Bay, of which our situation and distance did not allow us to
see the extent. We found that the nearest land to us on the opposite
shore was not on the south coast of the gulf, as we had supposed, but
a point to the E.S E., for which it was, therefore, proposed that we
should next cross the ice ; the south shore is all high and steep, but

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

201

much less so than the north; its nearest part was seven or eight miles 1820.
distant.

Hooper’s Island is principally composed of the same stratified sand-stone as
the adjacent shores ; on the top of the island, however, we also found a great
deal of clay iron-stone, varying in colour from fine chocolate to dark blue,
some of which was remarkably compact and heavy ; and several lumps of
calcareous spar, or crystallized carbonate of lime, were picked up on the
beach. We met with little or no vegetation, a few stunted tufts of moss
being, I believe, all that occurred in that way. There were a great many
brent-geese on the beach, of which four were killed, weighing about four
pounds each when shot, and two pounds when ready for dressing. We saw
also several grouse, a great many snow-buntings, whose lively note still
saluted us wherever we went, a raven, and an ivory gull. The latitude, ob-
served at the tents, was 75° 05' 18", the longitude, by chronometer 111° 56' 58 ",
and the variation of the magnetic needle 123° 47' 58 " easterly.

We rested till six P.M., and then set off across the ice for the point. The
snow had now become so soft after the heat of the day, that, loaded as we
were, we often sunk nearly up to the knees, which made travelling very
laborious, and we were, therefore, not sorry to get on shore by half-past eight,
having walked, by our account, three miles and a half. On landing we saw
two deer, but they were too shy to allow our sportsmen to come near them.

We directed our course to the south-east, along a narrow ridge of land inter-
posed between the sea and a lagoon, which now made its appearance at the
back, and which is about three-quarters of a mile long in a north-east direction,
and a quarter of a mile wide. It communicates with the gulf by a narrow
opening, only forty or fifty yards across, which, as well as the lagoon, was
still completely frozen over. In this neighbourhood we picked up the root
and three feet of the trunk of a small pine-tree, about fifteen feet above the
present level of the sea. We passed also a part of the skeleton of a musk-ox,
frozen hard into the ground. The soil here became very rich, and abounded
with the finest moss, together with a great deal of grass, saxifrage and poppy ;
and the quantity of dung Avhich covered the ground shewed it to be a feeding-
place for the deer, musk-oxen, and hares: the tracks of the former were
numerous and recent. We halted at half-past eleven. Hooper’s Island being
distant from us five miles and a half in a W. b. N. direction. The night was
remarkably clear and fine, with a light wind from the westAvard.

The spot on which we encamped appeared so favourable for obtaining

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1820. specimens of the different animals which frequent this island, that I deter-
mined to remain here one day for the purpose of sporting and examining
its natural productions. The latitude observed at the tents was 7 5° 02' 37",
the longitude, by the chronometer, 111° 37' 10", and the variation 126° 01' 48"
easterly ; from this station astronomical bearings were obtained for the survey
of the gulf.

Tues. 13. The sportsmen went out early in the morning, and soon after met with a
musk-ox feeding on a spot of luxuriant pasture-ground, covered with the dung
of these animals, as well as of deer. They fired at him from a considerable
distance, without wounding him, and he set off at a very quick pace over
the hills. The musk-ox has the appearance of a very ill-proportioned little
animal, its hair being so long as to make its feet appear only two or three
inches in length ; they seem, indeed, to be treading upon it at every step, and
the individual in question actually did so in some instances, as the hair was
found in several of the foot-tracks. When disturbed and hunted, they frequently
tore up the ground with their horns, and turned round occasionally to look at
their pursuers, but they never attempted to attack any of them. Our
gentlemen also met with a herd of twelve deer, three only of which had
horns, and they were much the largest of the herd, and constantly^ drove
the others away when they attempted to stop. The birds seen by our people
were many brent-geese and ptarmigans, several golden plovers, one or two
“ boatswains” (Lestris Parasiticus), and abundance of snow-buntings. One
or two mice {Mus Hudsonius) were caught; like several others we had seen,
these were turning brown about the belly and head, and the back was of a
dark grey colour. In every part of the island over which we travelled, the
holes and tracks of these little animals were occasionally seen ; one of them
which Seijeant Martin ran after, finding no hole near, and that he could not
escape, set himself against a stone, as if endeavouring to defend himself,
and bit the serjeant’s finger when he took hold of him.

On a point of land at the distance of three-quarters of a mile to the W.b.S.
of the tents, and within a hundred yards of the sea, the remains of six
Esquimaux huts were discovered ; they consisted of rude circles, about six
feet in diameter, constructed irregularly of stones of all sizes and shapes,
and raised to the height of two feet from the ground ; they were paved with
large slabs of white schistose sandstone, which is here abundant ; the moss
had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the growth of three or
four years. In each of the huts, on one side, was a small separate com-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

203

partment forming a recess, projecting outwards, which had probably been 1820.
their store-room ; and at a few feet distant from one of the huts was a
smaller circle of stones, which had composed the fire-place, the mark of
fire being still perceptible upon them. The huts which we had seen upon
Byam Martin Island, as well as those which we had visited on the coast of
Greenland in 1818, had each one of these small circles attached to them ; there
was also a separate pile of stones at a little distance from the huts, on which
the ptarmigan had lately taken up their abode, and which was probably
another fire-place. If the Esquimaux derive any part of their subsistence
from the land, and are under the necessity of coming to this high latitude in
quest of it, they will, perhaps, no where find better fare for a month or six
weeks than in this neighbourhood, for I have no doubt that, in the months of
July and August, the game is here in great plenty. It is scarcely possible,
however, upon the whole, that these people could long subsist on any part of
Melville Island, the summer season being much too short to allow them to lay in
a sufficient stock of provisions for a long and severe winter. It was remarked
by Captain Sabine and Mr. Fisher, who had both landed on Byam Martin
Island, that the huts we had now discovered appeared to be more recently
deserted than the others.

The day was fine and clear, with a moderate wind from the westward till
four P.M., when it died away, and was shortly after succeeded by a breeze
from the southward, with a fall of snow. When we were setting off to the
southward, a herd of five deer came towards the tents, but we did not
succeed in killing any of them. We now travelled due south with the inten-
tion of getting sight of the Table-hills, and returning by that route to the
ships, as there appeared to be nothing more within our reach of sufficient
interest to detain us any longer from them. At eight P.M., finding that the
people’s clothes were becoming wet through by the sleet which fell, we
halted and pitched the tents, the wind having freshened up to a strong
breeze from S.E.b.S., and the night being very inclement. There was here
a great deal of clay mixed with the soil, and the sandstone began to be
almost entirely of a greenish colour.

Early in the morning of the 14th, the wind veered to the westward, and Wed. 14.
the weather became gradually more clear; we therefore continued our
journey to the southward, and having passed over several ridges of high
ground lying across our track, and crossed some ravines lying in a N.E, and
S.W. direction, we came in sight of the Table-hills bearing S.E. of us, and

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. at eight A.M. pitched the tents on some dry ground on the bank of a ravine.
Two of the men complained of disordered bowels during the last march, occa-
sioned, as they supposed, by having taken too copious a draught of very
cold water at setting out in the morning. They were quite relieved, how-
ever, by a few hours’ rest, and our snow-blindness had now completely
left us. The snow-buntings, the only birds seen, were here very nu-
merous, and were flying about our tents all day like sparrows. We
moved on towards the Table-hills at five P.M., and crossed several ravines
without much water in them, running generally to the north-eastward, and
which therefore, probably, empty themselves into Liddon’s Gulf. As the
Table-hills are almost entirely composed of the debris of limestone, while we
had hitherto met with nothing but sandstone, we were anxious to observe
when the former would be found to commence, but we met with none of it
till within a few hundred yards of the hills, when it began to occur in
small pieces lying on the surface, with a little granite and feldspar, the
soil being still quite sandy. We halted between the Table-hills at ten o’clock,
having travelled eight miles over very swampy ground, and with the snow up
to our knees in some of the hollows. We met with no living animals during
this part of the journey, and it may be remarked, generally, that we always
found the game of every kind more abundant near the sea than inland,
except on the north coast of Melville Island, which is too barren to afford
them subsistence.

Thur. 15. A« I was desirous of remaining here till after noon, to obtain observations for
determining the situation of the Table-hills, the easternmost of which is the
most conspicuous object on this part of the coast, as well as a mark for the
anchorage in the Bay of the Hecla and Griper, the people were employed early
in the morning in carrying stones to the top of it, where a monument ten feet
high, and the same in breadth at its base, was erected by Mr. Fisher,
and a copper cylinder, containing a full account of our visit, deposited
within it. In the meantime. Captain Sabine and myself were occupied in
obtaining the necessary observations, by which the latitude of the hill was
found to be 74.° 48' 33", its longitude 111° II' 49", and the variation of the
magnetic needle 123° 05' 30" Easterly. Having before given some account
of the minerals found in this neighbourhood, I shall only add on this subject,
that, among the mineralogical specimens now added to our collection, was
a piece of fossil wood, found at the foot of the westernmost of the two hills,
lying loosely and separately upon the sand. It may be imagined, that

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

205

we looked anxiously towards the sea for any appearance of open water in
the offing, but nothing of this kind was visible, though the prospect was a
commanding one, as far to the westward as a S.S.W. bearing.

As soon as the observations were completed, we set off for Winter Harbour,
and having passed over much rich and wet ground, abounding with sorrel,
which now began to put forth its leaves with more vigour, arrived on board
at seven P.M., having been met, and welcomed most heartily, by almost
every officer and man belonging to the ships ; and it was no small sa-
tisfaction to me to hear it remarked, that the whole of our travelling party
appeared in more robust health than when we left them.

1820.

June.

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

CHAPTER IX.

OCCURRENCES AT WINTER HARBOUR IN THE EARLY PART OF JUNE

GRADUAL DISSOLUTION OF THE ICE UPON THE SEA, AND OF THE SNOW
UPON THE LAND — HUNTING PARTIES SENT OUT TO PROCURE GAME —

DECEASE AND BURIAL OF WILLIAM SCOTT EQUIPMENT OF THE SHIPS

COMPLETED TEMPERATE WEATHER DURING THE MONTH OF JULY

BREAKING UP OF THE ICE NEAR THE SHIPS — MOVE TO THE LOWER
PART OF THE HARBOUR — SEPARATION OF THE ICE AT THE ENTRANCE

PREPARE TO SAIL ABSTRACT OF OBSERVATIONS MADE IN WINTER

HARBOUR.

1820. I HAD the happiness to find, on my return, that the officers and men in
both ships continued to enjoy the same good health as before, with the
exception of Scott, who was still the only man in the Hecla’s sick-list,
and whose complaint seemed such as to baffle every attempt that had been
made to produce an amendment. A constant disposition to fainting and
a languid sort of despondency had been, for some time past, the only
symptoms which induced Mr. Edwards to continue the anti-scorbutic treat-
ment, and this it was sometimes absolutely necessary to discontinue for a
day or two together, on account of the weak state of his bowels. During
my absence he had been much worse than before, notwithstanding the
greatest care and attention paid to him, but he was now once more better.
He had lived almost entirely on the ptarmigan and ducks, of which a suf-
ficient quantity had been procured to serve the sick and convalescent in
both ships abundantly, and none had at this time been issued to any other
officer or man in the expedition.

The equipment of the ships had gone on satisfactorily during my absence,
the Griper being nearly ready for sea, the Hecla not quite so forward, on ac-
count of the heavy work with the ballast, of which sixty-five tons had been
brought on board to supply the deficiency of weight in her holds. The
survey of the provisions, fuel, and other stores was completed, and the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

207

quantity and condition of them, with the exception of the lemon-juice and 1820.
vinegar before mentioned, were found to be satisfactory. Indeed, the
whole of the provision was ascertained to be as good as when it came out
of store, more than twelve months before, except a small quantity of bread
and of sugar on the outside part of a few casks, on which a little moisture
appeared, and which made it expedient to use those articles first. This
excellent state of our provisions must, independently of the antiseptic pro-
perties of a cold climate, which is unfavourable to the process of putrefaction
or the accumulation of vermin, be mainly attributed to the care which had
been taken to supply us with every article of the best quality, and to pack the
whole in strong, tight casks, which were at once impervious to water, and less
liable to damage by accidents in the hold. With respect to vermin, I may
here mention, that not a mouse, or rat, or maggot of any kind, ever appeared
on board, to my knowledge, during this voyage.

A very perceptible change had taken place in the ice of the harbour
on its upper surface, it being covered with innumerable pools of water,
chiefly brackish, except close in-shore, where the tides had lifted the ice
considerably above the level of the sea.

Previously to the continuance of the narrative of occurrences subsequently
to my return from the land-journey, it may be proper to give some account
of the observations made on board the ships by Lieutenants Liddon and
Beechey, during my absence from Winter Harbour.

From these it appears, that the first red phalarope, (Phalaropus Platyrinchos), Frid. 2.
and also the first flock of snow-buntings which had been observed at Winter
Harbour this season, were seen on the 2d of June. It is perhaps worthy of
remark that, from eight P,M. on the 1st, till midnight on the 2d, being an
interval of twenty-eight hours, the mercury in the barometer remained
steadily at thirty inches, without varying a single hundredth. The weather
was cloudy, and the wind rather variable, though moderate from the north-
ward and westward during that time, and two or three fine days succeeded
it, though with some appearance occasionally of rain or snow.

A flock of twelve king-ducks, flying to the north-east, together with a Sat. 3.
single raven and an arctic gull, made their appearance on the 3d, and a
golden plover was also killed, and a few others seen on that day. The ther-
mometer rose in the shade from 29° at 4 A.M., to 43° at noon, which is
one of the greatest changes that was experienced in the course of one
day at this part of the scale.

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. On the 4tth, Lieutenant Liddon caused His Majesty’s birth-day to be
commemorated in the best manner that the situation of the ships would
Sun. 4. permit, by hoisting the ensigns and pendants, and directing full allowance
of provisions to be served to the crews. It is remarkable that, at Winter
Harbour, the weather was fine, and the wind moderate from the S.S.W.,
during the d'th, while, at a few leagues’ distance to the northward, we
Mon. 5. experienced a hard gale from the southward, with continued snow and a
heavy drift. On the 5th, the officers remarked a more perceptible thaw
than before, both on shore and on the ice, many pools of water having appeared
in new places on the latter, and the snow disappearing fast from the land,
though no streams of water were yet seen in the neighbourhood of Winter
Harbour. Flocks of ducks and geese were from this time seen almost daily
for the next six weeks, except immediately about the ships, from which the
game of every kind was scared soon after their arrival from the southward.
Wed. 7. On the 7th, Lieutenant Liddon walked over the ice to the entrance of the
harbour, where there was not even so much alteration perceptible as about
the ships ; indeed, every thing remained exactly the same, to all appearance,
as in the middle of winter. At five P.M., the weather being hazy, and a
light shower of snow falling, a strongly prismatic rainbow appeared, a
phenomenon of rare occurrence in these regions ; it had, I believe, nothing
Frid. 9. about it different from those observed in other climates. On the 9th, the
first seal was seen, lying upon the ice, near the mouth of the harbour, and
having a hole close to him, as usual ; as we never saw more than one of these
animals here at a time, and that very rarely, it was common for us, when-
ever this did occur, to remark that the seal had been seen, and the same
mode of expression was as naturally and more justly applied to the bear seen
in the autumn soon after our arrival here. So few, indeed, are the animals
in this neighbourhood, which either live in the sea, or derive their subsist-
ence from it, that it is scarcely possible that the Esquimaux, who depend
chiefly, if not entirely, upon them for provision, could long exist on the
shores of Melville Island. About this time several mosquitoes {Culex Pipiens)
were caught, but they were never of the least annoyance to us, as is the
case on the shores of Hudson’s Bay, and in other cold countries ; nor,
indeed, did I hear of any of our people having once been bit by them.
The buds of the Saxifraga Oppositifolia, and of the dwarf-willow, were
observed to be opening out on the 9th, and some of the sorrel to be in
flower ; a plant with a flower of a lilac colour, having a very sweet smell,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

209

and which we supposed to be a Draba, was also observed to be pushing out 1820.
its blossoms about this time ; but none of these plants were so forward as the
saxifrage.

On the 11th, another instance occurred of a remarkable difference in
the weather in Winter Harbour, and at no great distance to the northward of
it, the weather being described in the Meteorological Journals of the ships,
as very inclement, with a gale of wind from the westward, while, near
Bushnan Cove, we enjoyed a clear and moderate day. Some hares were
seen, for the first time, to the eastward of the ships.

Some of the officers returned on the 14th, after an excursion of two days Wed. 14.
to the eastward, bringing with them three brent-geese, six brace of ptar-
migan, and a golden plover, and having seen several hares, Mr. Beverly
describes the soil upon the hills to be composed of clay, and the large
masses of sandstone which are found on the surface as much impregnated
with iron. The first rein-deer were seen from the ships this day ; and it was
conjectured by the officers, from the situation in which they were observed;,
and from their setting off directly to the northward, that they had just landed
upon the island.

Being desirous of procuring as much game as possible during the remainder Fnd- 16.
of the time we might be destined still to remain in our present inactive state,
and finding that the short daily excursions which our sportsmen were enabled
to make in the usual way, did not take them to a sufficient distance from the
ships for this purpose, I directed a party of officers and men to be pre-
pared from each ship, under Lieutenants Beechey and Hoppner, to remain a
few days out, at the distance of ten or twelve miles to the eastward and
westward of the harbour, and to send in their game whenever any should be
procured. They accordingly left the ships this evening, carrying with them
tents, blankets, fuel, and the same allowance of provisions as was issued on
board. Lieutenant Hoppner, who commanded the party which went to the
south-west, was directed carefully to watch the ice, that any appearance of
its breaking up might immediately be made known to me. Captain Sabine
and his men were indefatigably employed during the day in pitching a
laboratory-tent, having a marquee within it, for the reception of the clocks,
it being his wish, now that the weather was more favourable for the purpose,
to occupy the whole of the time which might elapse previously to the sailing
of the Expedition, in making a fresh series of observations for the pendulums.

At half an hour before midnight, a triple rainbow appeared, the outer arch

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1 820. being quite complete, and strongly tinged with the prismatic colours ; the second
nearly perfect ; and the inner one being only perceptible near its eastern leg.

Sat. 17. A fog in the early part of the morning, being dispersed by the warmth
of the sun, the weather became fine and pleasant. Having observed
that the sorrel was now so far advanced in foliage as to be easily
gathered in sufficient quantity for eating, I gave orders that two after-
noons in each week should be occupied by all hands in collecting the
leaves of this plant ; each man being required to bring in, for the present,
one ounce, to be served in lieu of the lemon-juice, pickles, and dried herbs
which had been hitherto issued. The growth of the sorrel was from this
time so quick, and the quantity of it so great on every part of the ground
about the harbour, that we shortly after sent the men out every afternoon for
an hour or two ; in which time, besides the advantage of a healthy walk, they
could without difficulty pick nearly a pound each, of this valuable antiscor-
butic, of which they were all extremely fond. A part of the leaves thus
daily collected was served to the messes, both of officers and men, and
eaten in various ways, such as pickles, salad, in puddings, or boiled as greens;
in all of which modes, it was constantly and abundantly used till we
sailed from Winter Harbour, and for three weeks after, whenever an oppor-
tunity offered of sending on shore to procure it. Of the good effects pro-
duced upon our health by the unlimited use of fresh vegetable substances,
thus bountifully supplied by the hand of nature, even where least to be ex-
pected, little doubt can be entertained, as it is well known to be a never-
failing specific for scorbutic affections, to which all persons deprived of it
for a length of time are probably more or less pre-disposed. It is reasonable,
therefore, to attribute in a great degree to the use of the sorrel, the efficient
state of our crews at the time of our re-commencing our operations at sea.
We found also a few roots of scurvy-grass (Cochlearia Fenestrata), but they
were too rare and the leaves too small to be of any service to us.

Mr. Wakeham, with a party from the S.W., returned in the evening from a
shooting excursion, having killed the first deer that we had procured this
season, which gave us sixty pounds of meat. A second, sent in by Lieutenant
Beechey on the 19th, weighed only fifty-two pounds, when cleaned, though
not of a very small size ; but these animals are extremely lean on their first
arrival from the south, and appear to improve in this respect very rapidly by
the good feeding they find upon this island.

By the 2()th of June the land, in the immediate neighbourhood of the ships.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

211

and especially in low and sheltered situations, was much covered with the hand- 1 820.
some purple flower of the Saxifraga Oppositifolia, which was at this time
in great perfection, and gave something like cheerfulness and animation
to a scene hitherto indescribably dreary in its appearance. The poppy
(Papaver Nudicaule) and some other plants, which will be described here-
after, and most of which appeared in flower during the month of July,
afforded us a degree of enjoyment that made us for awhile forget the rigour
of this severe climate.

The wind increased to a fresh gale from the north on the night of the 20th, Wed. 21.
and continued to do so during the following day ; so that Captain Sabine
had great difficulty in keeping his tents secure, and in spite of every exertion
the canvass came in upon one of them, and put it out of its place. The
ravines, which had no water in them a week before, were now discharging
such deep and rapid torrents into the sea, as to render them quite impassable.

The suddenness with which the changes take place during the short season,
which may be called summer in this climate, must appear very striking when
it is remembered that, for a part of the first week in June, we were under the
necessity of thawing artificially the snow, which we made use of for water
during the early part of our journey to the northward; that, during the second
week, the ground was in most parts so wet and swampy that we could with
difficulty travel ; and that, had we not returned before the end of the third
week, we should probably have been prevented doing so for some time, by
the impossibility of crossing the ravines without great danger of being carried
away by the torrents, an accident that happened to our hunting parties on
one or two occasions, in endeavouring to return with their game to the
ships. Lieutenant Hoppner sent in another deer, being the largest of a
herd of fifteen, notwithstanding which, it only furnished us with seventy-
eight pounds of venison. Lieutenant Hoppner reported that the pools upon
the upper surface of the ice to the south-west were rapidly increasing in size
and number, but that no indication of its breaking up had yet appeared.

On the 22d, at four P.M., a thermometer, in the shade on board the Hecla,
stood at 51°, being the highest temperature we had yet registered this season.

A swan was seen by Mr. Scallon on a pond to the S.W. ; this was, I
believe, the only bird of the kind seen during our stay here, except a dead
one which was picked up on our first arrival.

On the 24th we had frequent showers of snow, which occur in this climate
more or less at all times of the year ; at this season, however, when the

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VOYAGE FOE THE DISCOVERY

1820. earth is warrn> it seldom or never lies on the ground for a whole day
together.

Sat. 24. Captain Sabine, among the numerous difficulties he had to overcome in
completing his series of Observations for the pendulum, was now annoyed by
the constant thawing and sinking of the gi'ound, though much pains had been
taken to lay a solid foundation for the clocks to stand upon ; fortunately,
howevef, no eerious inconvenience arose from this new annoyance. Lieutenant
Beechey and his people procured another deer, and several hares and birds,
which, added to the game already received, afforded a supply sufficient
to substitute for three days’ regular allowance, while near the ships
scarcely a single bird could now be procured. Not doubting, therefore,
of the advantage of this plan, I determined to continue it till near the
time of our sailing, by relieving the parties after a certain number of
days’ absence. An account of the total quantity of game obtained during
our long stay at Melville Island will be given hereafter. The men
were, in general, particularly fond of these excursions, from which they
invariably returned in the best possible health, though generally a little
thinner than when they went out. As a matter of good policy, it was our
custom to consider the heads and hearts of the deer as the lawful perquisites
of those who killed them, which regulation served to increase their keenness
in hunting, while it gave the people thus employed rather a larger share of
fresh meat than those who remained on board.

Mon. 26. Lieutenant Beechey, on his return from the eastward at midnight on the
26th, reported that the ice along shore in that direction appeared in a more
forward state of dissolution than near Winter Harbour, there being almost
water enough in some places to allow a boat to pass, with several large cracks
in the ice extending from the land some distance to seaward. The deer had
now become much more wild near the tents, and it was therefore necessary
to shift the ground a little. Lieutenant Beechey succeeded in killing one of
these animals, by lying down quietly, and imitating the voice of a fawn,
when the deer immediately came up to him within gun-shot. The horns of
the deer, killed at this season, as Mr. Fisher remarks, were “ covered with a
soft skin, having a downy pile or hair upon it ; the horns themselves were
soft, and at the tips flexible and easily broken.” The foxes, of which they
saw several, “ had a black spot, or patch, on each side of the hind-quarters,
or hams.” Lieutenant Beechey reported also, that one of the Hecla’s quarter-
masters, who belonged to his party, had met with the crown-bone of a whale

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

213

at the distance of a mile from the sea, and considerably above its present 1820.
level. Another was subsequently found in a similar situation, more than a
mile to the north of the harbour, and nearly buried in the earth, which was
hard frozen around it. Two headlands, to the eastward of the ships, near the
station which Lieutenant Beechey had chosen for the tents, and for the position
of which he had obtained angles during his late excursion, were named after
Messrs. Halse and Wakeham.

On the 29th, one of the men, in returning on board, from the daily occu- Thur. 29.
pation of gathering sorrel, found in a hole upon the ice a small fish, which
appeared to be of the whiting species, and on going to examine the place
where it was picked up, Mr. Edwards and myself found two others exactly
similar. As there was as yet no communication between the sea and the
upper surface of the ice, sufficiently large to admit these fish, it became a
matter of question in what manner they had got into the situation in which
we found them. It appeared most likely that they were frozen on the surface
of the water at the beginning of winter when the frost first commenced, and
perhaps, therefore, had been floating there dead. We remarked that when-
ever any hard substance is laid upon the ice in small quantities, it soon
makes a deep hole for itself, by the heat it absorbs and radiates, by which
the ice around it is melted. There were at this time upon the ice innume-
rable holes of this kind, some forming small, and others large pools of water;
and in every one of these, without exception, some extraneous substance,
such as sea-weed, sand, and not unfrequently a number of small putrid
shrimps were found. In one of these holes the fish alluded to were found.

It was curious to see how directly contrary was the effect produced upon the
ice by a quantity of straw which was put out upon it in the early part of
May, and which, by preventing the access of warmth, had now become raised
above the general surface more than two feet ; affording a strong practical
example of the principle on which straw is made use of in ice-houses, and
what was at that time of more importance to us, a proof how much the upper
surface of the ice had been insensibly wasted by dissolution.

Lieutenant Hoppner returned, on the evening of the 29th, from his hunting
excursion to the south-west, bringing with him some game, and what was to
us much more acceptable, the welcome information that the ice had been
observed in motion in the offing on the 22d. This circumstance was first
observed by Messrs. Skene and Fife, who were of Lieutenant Hoppner’s
party, and who were awakened by a loud grinding noise, which, as they

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

2U

1820. had soon the satisfaction to find, was occasioned by the heavy field-ice setting^
rapidly to the eastward, at the distance of five miles from the land, and ap-
parently at the rate of a mile an hour. The wind was at this time moderate,
but on the preceding day it had blown a fresh northerly gale.

Lieutenant Hoppner likewise reported that he had, in the course of his
late excursion, met with a lake between four and five miles in circumference,
situated at the distance of twelve or fourteen miles to the westward of
the entrance of Winter Harbour, and four miles from the sea. This lake was
still frozen over, but, from the nature of the banks, had the appearance of
being deep ; and it is, probably, the same which Mr. Fife had fallen in with,
at the time he lost his way in September 1819, and of the situation of which
he had not been able to give any satisfactory account.

On the 27th of June, William Scott, of whose complaint I have before had
occasion to speak, had become quite delirious, and could only be kept in bed
by force. Mr. Edwards was at first in hopes that this was the effect of some
temporary cause, but was afterwards of opinion that it resembled, in every
respect, a state of absolute and permanent derangement; and this opinion
was subsequently strengthened by some circumstances v/hich only now came
to our knowledge, and of which an account will be given in another place.

uid. 30. I^or some days past Scott had been gradually growing worse, and on the
evening of the 29th, he was so far exhausted, that Mr. Edwards did not
expect him to survive through the night. At two A.M. on the 30th, I was
inforaied by that gentleman, that Scott was dying, and before I could get
my clothes on, he had breathed his last, without any apparent pain. As it
was proper and desirable, in every respect, that his body should be opened,
notwithstanding the prejudice which seamen entertain against this practice,
and which it would, perhaps, be as well to overcome by more frequently
insisting upon it, I willingly complied with Mr. Edwards’s request to be
allowed to perform the dissection. The result was satisfactory to the
medical gentlemen in whose charge this unfortunate man had been placed ;
and, I may be permitted to add to myself also, inasmuch as it proved his
death to have been immediately occasioned by a disease which, perhaps, no
skill nor attention could have cured in any climate, or under any circumstances,
and having no immediate connexion with our present peculiar situation, or
with the nature of the service in which we were engaged. As this case has
proved the only fatal one during a voyage, differing in many respects from
any before undertaken, a more particular account of it may not, perhaps, be

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

215

considered uninteresting ; with this view, therefore, as well as from an 1820.
anxious desire to do justice to the skill and humane attention displayed by
the medical officers during the whole course of this poor man’s illness, I
have requested Mr. Edwards to furnish me with a detailed statement of his
case, and of the treatment adopted, which will be found in the Appendix.

For the last two or three days, the spring-tides, which had been unusually
high, overflowed the ice near the beach, so as to make it difficult to land
near high water. In the general appearance of the ice of the harbour, there
was no very perceptible alteration from day to day, though the thawing
process was certainly going on with great rapidity at this period. The officer
who relieved Lieutenant Hoppner, in command of the hunting party to the
south-west, received strict injunctions to watch the ice constantly, and to
make an immediate report of any appearance of open water in any direction.

For the last four or five days in June, we had experienced more of southerly
winds than usual, the weather being generally cloudy, with a good deal of
small rain, and now and then a little snow; the general temperature of the
atmosphere, however, was pleasant and comfortable to our feelings, as well as
favourable to the dissolution of the ice, for which we were so anxiously looking.

One of Mr. Nias’s party arrived from the eastward on the morning of the July.
1st of July, with a good supply of hares, ducks, and ptarmigans ; he had
seen above fifty deer in three days, but they were too wild to allow the
party to get near them, in a country without the smallest cover of any
kind. Another fish was picked up to-day in a hole on the ice, of the same
kind as those before found.

On Sunday the 2d of July, after divine service had been performed, the Sun. 2.
body of the deceased was committed to the earth, on a level piece of ground
about a hundred yards from the beach, with every solemnity which the
occasion demanded, and the circumstances of our situation would permit.

The ensigns and pendants were lowered half-mast during the procession,
and the remains of our unfortunate shipmate were attended to the grave by
every officer and man in both ships. To the performance of this last
melancholy duty, under any circumstances sufficiently impressive, the
peculiarity of the scene around us, and of the circumstances in which we
were placed, could not fail to impart an additional feeling of awful solemnity,
which it is more easy to imagine than to describe. A neat tomb-stone was
afterwards placed at the head of the grave by Mr. Fisher, who carved upon
it the name of the deceased with the other usual information.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of June, 1820.

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mnm.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini.

mum.

Mean.

1

O

+ 40

O

+ 31

+ 36.29

inches.

30.00

inches.

29.88

inches.

29.940

N. by E.

Light breezes and cloudy weather.

2

36

31

34.17

30.00

.30.00

30.000

to N.W.

Ditto ditto.

3

43

29

35.50

29.98

29.74

29.862

C N. by West to >
t South. S

Moderate and cloudy.

4

39

31.5

35.63

29.70

29.50

29.597

South

Ditto ditto.

5

40

30

34.87

29.58

29.52

29.555

S. by W.

Moderate and fine.

6

37

28

32.17

29.68

29.60

29.642

S.E. by S. to N.W.

Moderate and hazy.

7

31

28

29.63

29.64

29.50

29.553

N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

8

36

28

32.08

29.60

29.55

29.590

West.

Ditto ditto.

9

38

30

33.92

29.69

29.60

29.638

W.S.W. to North.

Light breezes, with rain at times.

10

33

32

32.25

29.73

29.62

29.692

S.E. to East.

Ligiit airs to strong breezes : continued snow.

11

36

33

33.92

29.84

29.76

..29.792

West.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

12

34

30

32.54

29.94

29.86

29.895

West.

Moderate and cloudy.

13

37

29.5

33.46

29.93

29.75

29.895

West.

Moderate with snow and rain.

14

37

32

34.75

29.73

29.65

29.700

S.S.W. to N.N.W.

Fresh breezes, with squalls and snow.

15

39

29

34.67

29.80

29.74

29.775

N.W.

Moderate and clear.

16

37

29

33.75

29.90

29.85

29.877

S.S.E.

Light breezes and fine.

17

43

30

34.58

30.00

29.90

29.945

S.E.

Ditto ditto.

18

43

31

37.33

30.13

30.00

30.062

S.E.

Light breezes and fine.

19

40

34

37.67

30.13

30.08

30.112

North

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

20

39

34

36.25

30.07

29.97

30.022

North

Ditto ditto.

21

42

35

38.17

29.96

29.93

29.947

North

Strong breezes — fine clear weather.

22

51

36

44.33

30.04

29.94

30.005

North

Moderate and cloudy.

23

45.5

38

42.08

30.00

29.93

29.970

North

Moderate and fine.

24

41

33

37.00

29.94

29.79

29.842

N.N.W.

Moderate and cloudy : occasional snow.

25

41.5

34

37.42

29.80

29.76

29.790

North

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather.

26

47

33

40.50

29.90

29.81

29.852

N.N.E. to S.W.

Light breezes and cloudy — small rain.

27

43

36

39.33

29.96

29.37

29.907

S.S.W.

Ditto ditto.

28

44

32

37.17

29.81

29.74

29.785

S.E.

Ditto ditto.

29

46

39

41.92

29.79

29.75

29.767

C North by East to >

\ South. S

Ditto ditto.

30

48

37

43.75

29.80

29.59

29.677

S.S.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

+ 51

+ 28

+ 36.24

30.13

29.50

29.823

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

217

A herd of fourteen deer being seen near the ships, a party was despatched in i82o.
pursuit of them, with our customary want of success, it being almost impossible
to approach them in so open and exposed a country, so that these excursions
generally ended in a chase between the men and the deer ; some good dogs
would, perhaps, have been serviceable to us on these occasions.

Having taken on board our bower anchors and cables from the beach, Mon, 3.
on account of the difficulty we should have found in removing them after
the ice began to break up, each ship placed two stream anchors on shore
with hawsers from the bow and quarter, to hold them in case of any
sudden motion of the ice, the pools upon which now increased very
perceptibly both in depth and extent from day to day. In looking
into these pools, it always appeared, during the day, as if drops of rain
were falling into them ; this was caused by the continual extrication of air
from the ice which was thawing below, and by the rising of the bubbles to
the surface. At six P.M., the atmosphere being clear and serene, the
thermometer rose to 53° in the shade, but immediately on a moderate breeze
springing up from the northward it fell to 45°. On the 5th and 6th, how-
ever, it stood for three hours from 50° to 52°, with a fresh breeze from
the northward, accompanied by cloudy weather ; and on the afternoons
of the two following days, the wind being still northerly, the atmosphere
continued for some time at the temperature of 55°.

The dissolution of the ice of the harbour went on so rapidly in the early Thurs. 6.
part of July, that we were greatly surprised, on the 6th, in finding, that in
several of the pools of water, on its upper surface, holes were washed quite
through to the sea beneath. On examining several of these, we found that
the average thickness of the ice, in the upper part of the harbour where the
ships were lying, did not exceed two feet, which was much less than we had
any idea of. Towards the mouth of the harbour, however, where the water
was deeper, no such holes made their appearance for some days after this.

It must here be remarked, that in all cases we found the ice to be first thawed
and broken up in the shoalest water, in consequence, I suppose, of the
greater facility with which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of
the sea, absorbed and radiated the heat of the sun’s rays ; and, as it is in such
situations that water generally freezes the first, this circumstance seems a
remarkable instance of the provision of nature for maintaining such a balance
in the quantity of ice annually formed and dissolved, as shall prevent any
undue or extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions of

218

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. the earth. In consequence of this circumstance, we were now enabled, for
the first time, to bring our boats down to the beach, so as to allow them
to float about high water, in order to prevent their being split by the sun,
while in every other part of the harbour, except thus near the shore, we had
not the means of doing so till some days afterwards. Among the means,
also, which nature employs in these regions to dissolve, during the short
summer, the ice which has been formed upon the sea by the cold of winter,
there appears to be none more efficacious than the numerous streams of water
produced by the melting of the snow upon the land, and which, for a period
of at least six or seven weeks, even in the climate of Melville Island, are
constantly discharging themselves into the ocean. On this account, it would
appear probable, that high land is more favourable to the dissolution and
dispersion of the ice near its shores than that which is lower, because it
supplies a never-ceasing flow of water during the whole of the thawing
season. For instance, on the 1st of September, 1818, we found the stream
in Possession Bay discharging a torrent of water into the sea, and there was
still snow enough remaining on the land to keep up an abundant stream, till
it should be arrested by the frost of winter ; whereas, on these islands, which
are very low, comparatively with the land about Possession Bay, or in Sir
James Lancaster’s Sound, we found, at the same season, in 1819, and much
before the thawing had finished, that they were completely free from snow,
the ravines entirely dry, and the whole face of the islands parched and
cracked with drought, as if there had been no moisture upon the surface of
the ground for some time.

On unhanging the rudders, and hauling them up on the ice for examination,
we found them a good deal shaken and grazed by the blows they had
received during the time the ships were beset at the entrance of Davis’
Strait. We found, also, that the rudder-cases in both ships had been fitted
too small, occasioning considerable difficulty in getting the rudders down
when working, a circumstance by no means disadvantageous, (perhaps, indeed,
rather the contrary,) on ordinary service at sea, but which should be carefully
avoided in ships intended for the navigation among ice, as it is frequently
necessary to unship the rudder at a short notice, in order to preserve it from
injury, as our future experience was soon to teach us. This fault was,
however, soon remedied, and the rudders again hung, in readiness for sea.
About this time, a few flocks of looms occasionally made their appearance,
invariably flying quite round the harbour, exactly over the narrow and only

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

219

strip of water which I have before described as occurring next the beach, 1820.
as if looking out for food.

From the 7th to the 10th, a good deal of rain fell at intervals, which pro- Mon. lO
duced a very sensible alteration in the ice, making it look of a blue colour
all over the surface, and increasing the size and number of the holes in a
much greater degree than during the same interval at any other period.

Mr. Reid, who returned on the 10th from his hunting-excursion to the
south-west, reported, however, that he had not, during his absence, per-
ceived the ice to be in motion, nor was there any perceptible alteration in
the general mass upon the coast, except in the increase of the number of pools
upon it, and in the breadth of the little channel between the ice and the
land. This channel, if so it may be called, when the depth was not yet
sufficient to float one of our whale-boats, was from forty to fifty yards wide in
the part of the harbour next us, but much more on the northern and eastern
sides, where the shoal-water extends to a greater distance from the shore.

We were in hopes that the spring tides, which took place about the 11th,
would have been serviceable in breaking up the ice, which now began to
approach that state of rottenness, as the sailors term it, which made it
dangerous to walk across the pools, as we had hitherto been accustomed to
do, to avoid the trouble of going round. No sensible alteration was pro-
duced, however, by the highest tide ; probably in consequence of the ice
being already so completely detached from the shore, as to allow it to rise
freely, and without resistance of any kind, like any other floating body ; the
height and velocity of the tides are here, indeed, so small, that it was not
reasonable to expect much from them in this way.

On the Hnth a boat passed, for the first time, between the ships and the Frid. 14
shore, in consequence of the junction of a number of the pools and holes in the
ice, and on the following day the same kind of communication was practicable
between the ships. It now became necessary, therefore, to provide against
the possibility of the ships being forced on shore by the total disruption of
the ice between them and the beach, and the pressure of that without, by
letting go a bower-anchor underfoot, which was accordingly done as soon as
there was a hole in the ice under the bows of each, sufficiently large to allow
the anchors to pass through. We had now been quite ready for sea for some
days; and a regular and anxious look-out was kept from the crow’s nest for
any alteration in the state of the ice, which might favour our departure from
Winter Harbour, in which it now became more than probable that we were

220

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. destined to be detained thus inactively for a part of each month in the
whole year, as we had reached it in the latter part of September, and were
likely to be prevented leaving it till after the commencement of August.

Sun. 16. On the 16th of July the streams of water in the ravines were once more
passable with great ease, and the snow had entirely disappeared, ex-
cept on the sides of those ravines, and in other hollows where it had
formed considerable drifts ; so that the appearance of the land was much the
same now as when we first made the islands in the latter part of August
the preceding year. The walks which our people were enabled to take at
this period, when the weather was really mild and pleasant, and to our
feelings quite as warm as the summer of any other climate, together with
the luxurious living afforded by our hunting parties, and by the abundant
supply of sorrel which was always at command, were the means of completely
eradicating any seeds of scurvy which might have been lurking in the consti-
tutions of the officers and men, who were now, I believe, in as good health,
and certainly in as good spirits, as when the Expedition left England. Gra-
tifying as this fact could not but be to me, it was impossible to contemplate
without pain, the probability, now too evident, that the shortness of the
approaching season of operations would not admit of that degree of success in
the prosecution of the main object of our enterprise, which might otherwise
have been reasonably anticipated in setting out from our present advanced
station with two ships in such perfect condition, and with crews so zealous in
the cause in which we were engaged.

Mon. 17. From six A.M. till six P.M. on the 17th, the thermometer stood generally
from 55° to 60°; the latter temperature being the highest which appears in the
Hecla’s Meteorological Journal during this summer. It will readily be con-
ceived how pleasant such a temperature must have been to our feelings after the
severe winter which immediately preceded it. The month of July is, indeed, the
only one which can be called at all comfortable in the climate of Melville Island.

Tues. 18, On the 18th I rowed round the harbour in a boat, in order to take the
soundings as far as the ice would permit; when it was worthy of remark how
exactly the extent of the clear water between the ice and the shore corre-
sponded with its depth, it being nearly a quarter of a mile wide On the
north-eastern side of the harbour, where the deepest water was from eight to
ten feet; while on the western side, where we found two fathoms, the passage
for the boat did not exceed forty or fifty yards in width. This channel was
almost daily becoming wider, especially after a strong breeze from any

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

221

quarter causing a ripple on the sea, by which the edge of the ice was con- 1820.
stantly washed and rapidly dissolved. My intention, therefore, at this time
was, carefully to watch the increasing breadth of this open water; and,
whenever a depth of three fathoms could be found, to warp the ships through
it along-shore, a^ the only means which appeared likely to be allowed us of
commencing our summer’s navigation.

On the 20th, there being a strong breeze from the N.N.E., with fog andThur. 20.
rain, all favourable to the dispersion of the ice, that part of it which was
immediately around the Hecla, and from which she had been artificially de-
tached so long before, at length separated into pieces, and floated away ;
carrying with it the collection of ashes and other rubbish which had been
accumulating for the last ten months ; so that the ship was now once more
fairly riding at anchor, but with the ice still occupying the whole of the
centre of the harbour, and within a few yards of her bows : the Griper had
been set free in a similar manner a few days before. But it was only in that
part of the harbour where the ships were lying that the ice had yet sepa-
rated in this manner at so great a distance from the shore ; a circumstance
probably occasioned by the greater radiation of heat from the ships, and
from the materials of various kinds which we had occasion to deposit upon the
ice during the time of our equipment.

Lieutenant Liddon accompanied me in a boat down the west shore of the
harbour, to the southern point of the entrance, in order to sound along the
edge of the ice, where we found from seven to fifteen feet water ; the ice
about the entrance appeared still very solid and compact, and not a single
hole was at this time noticed through any of the pools upon its surface, ex-
cept one which was made by a seal, and which discovered the thickness of the
ice to be there between two and three feet.

Mr. Dealey, with a hunting party, returned late at night without success,
having lost his way in a thick fog, that hung over the land at intervals
during the day, a circumstance which did not often occur while the ships
remained in harbour : we frequently, however, especially in the month of
July, perceived heavy fog-banks covering the horizon in the offing, while the
weather was perfectly clear near the shore.

On the 21st, Mr. Fife returned from our hunting station twelve or fourteen Frid. 21.
miles to the south-west, and reported that the appearance of the ice in that
quarter was much the same as in Winter Harbour, except that the space
between the ice and the land was in most parts not so broad.

222

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sat. 22,

Sun 23.

Mon. 24.

Tues. 25,

There was a fresh breeze from the north-eastward, with fine clear weather,
on the 22d, which made the Hecla swing round into twenty feet water astern ;
and the ice, being now moveable in the harbour, came home towards the
shore with this wind, but not so much as to put any considerable strain on
the cable of either ship ; and the holding-ground being excellent, there was
nothing to apprehend for their security.

During a walk which I took to the southward this day for the purpose of
examining the ice near the mouth of the harbour, I was glad to find that a
quantity of it had lately been forced up on the reef, by the pressure of the
external ice, a proof that it had some room in which to acquire motion,
and which encouraged a hope that when the wind should blow directly off
the land, it might drift the ice sufficiently from the shore to afford us a navi-
gable channel to the westward. I, therefore, went down in a boat in the
afternoon, to see if any thing could be done, but found the shore so loaded
with broken ice which a north-east wind had first separated and then drifted
upon the beach, that I could not get so far as the south point of the entrance.

A fresh gale which blew from the northward, on the morning of the 23d,
caused a great alteration in the appearance of the ice near the ships, but
none whatever in that in the offing, or at the mouth of the harbour, except
that the shores were there more encumbered than before, owing to the
quantity of pieces which were separated and driven down from the north-
ward, so that our small boat could not succeed in getting along the shore.
The north shore of the harbour was now, however, so clear as to induce me
to send Lieutenant Beechey with two boats to haul the seine, -in the hope of
catching some such fish as we had some time ago found upon the ice. Our
fishermen, however, had little success, having brought on board only three
small fish, which were all that were found in the net.

On the 24th, the sails were bent, in readiness for our starting at a moment’s
notice, though, it must be confessed, that the motive for doing so was to
make some show of moving, rather than any expectation which I dared to
entertain of soon escaping from our long and tedious confinement; for it was
impossible to conceal from the men the painful fact, that, in eight or nine
weeks from this period, the navigable season must unavoidably come to a
conclusion.

I went away in a boat early on the morning of the 25th, in order to sound
the harbour, in those parts where the ice would admit the boat, with a view
to take advantage of the first favourable change which might present itself.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

223

The wind having come round to the southward in the afternoon, caused 1820.
the separation of a large portion of ice on the northern side of that which
now occupied the harbour, and the detached pieces drifting down towards us,
rendered it necessary to be on our guard lest the ships should be forced from
their anchorage. On this account, as well as from an anxious and impatieilt
desire to make a move, however trifling, from a spot in which we had
now unwillingly but unavoidably passed nearly ten months, and of which
we had long been heartily tired, I directed lines to be run out for the pur-
pose of warping the ships along the ice in the centre of the harbour, and at
half-past two P.M., the anchors were weighed. As soon as a strain was
put upon the lines, however, we found that the ice to which they were
attached came home upon us, instead of the ships being drawn out to the
southward, and we were, therefore, obliged to have recourse to the kedge-
anchors, which we could scarcely find room to drop, on account of the
closeness of the ice. Having warped a little way out from the shore, into
five fathoms and a half, it was found impossible to proceed any farther
without a change of wind, and the anchors were, therefore, dropped till
such a change should take place. In the course of the evening all the loose
ice drifted past us to the northward, loading that shore of the harbour with
innumerable fragments of it, and leaving a considerable space of clear
water along shore to the southward. Our hunting parties were now recalled,
and returned on board in good health in the course of this and the following
day ; having supplied us, during the whole time which this mode had been
adopted, with a quantity of game sufficient to substitute for more than one
month’s established proportion of meat on board both ships. Their success
had of late, however, become very indifferent, as they had not seen a deer
for several days, and the birds were grown extremely shy, A herd of
seven musk-oxen had lately been met with to the south-west.

On the morning of the 26th, it was nearly calm, with continued rain and Wed. 26.
thick weather ; and there being now a space of clear water for nearly three-
quarters of a mile to the southward of us, we took advantage of a breeze which
sprung up from the northward to weigh, at nine A.M. and run down as far as the
ice would permit, and then dropped our anchors in the best births we could
select, close to the edge of it, with the intention of advancing step b)’' step,
as it continued to separate by piece-meal. The ice across the entrance of
the harbour as far as this spot, and the whole of that in the offing, of which
we had here a commanding view from the Hecla’s crow’s-nest, was still

224.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. quite continuous and unbroken, with the same appearance of solidity as it
had during the middle of winter, except that the pools of water were numerous
upon its surface.

Tlmi. 27. On the 27th, the weather was clear and fine, with a strong and rather
cold wind from the W.N.W., the thermometer not being higher than 37°
during the day. The general temperature of the atmosphere had, indeed,
before this time, begun very sensibly to decrease, and from this period the
thermometer seldom stood so high as 40° in the shade during the rest of
the summer. Some showers of sleet and snow prevented our sending the
people on shore to pick sorrel, as they had been accustomed to do for some
weeks past; this valuable plant was now on the decline, the leaves begin-
ning to wither, and having much less of that acid taste, which constitutes its
principal value.

Frid. ^8. On the morning of the 28th, the wind, having shifted to the southward,
was found to set the ice (close to the edge of which the Hecla had anchored)
against the cable, putting some strain upon it in addition to that of the ship.
We veered, therefore, to thirty fathoms, to enable the anchor to hold the
better, and ranged the other cable. At half-past eight A.M. I rowed along-
shore to the southward in a boat as far as the ice would allow us to go, which,
however, was not a single yard beyond where Lieutenant Liddon and myself
had gone, with almost equal facility, eight days before. I then landed, and
walked about two miles to the southward, where I had a clear view for several
miles in that direction. The space between the ice and the land between
the entrance of Winter Harbour and Cape Hearne was so small that a boat
could not possibly have gone that distance, even if the passage out of the
harbour had been clear. The only appearance of the breaking up of the ice
consisted in a quantity of it having been recently pressed up into hummocks
in some places near the beach ; but, upon the whole, I was compelled to
admit, in my own mind, that there never was a sea which appeared less
navigable. On my return, I perceived that our people were busy in the boats,
and found when I got on board, that the Hecla had been forced by the ice into
thirteen feet water abaft, the whole body having come home upon the cable,
so as to drag the anchor. Lieutenant Beechey had, with great promptness,
cut a bight or dock in the ice, and dropped the kedge in the middle of it, by
which means he had, before my return on board, succeeded in getting the
ship once more into four fathoms ; and the small bower being then hove up,
she was hauled out into seven fathoms, and the other anchor let go, after

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

225

which we lay quite securely, the wind freshening up strong from the westward 1820.
at night, which kept the ice at a sufficient distance from us.

' In the mean time Lieutenant Liddon had sent me word that the Griper, Sat. 29.
which had taken her birth to the southward of ours, was not in a much more
secure situation than that from which the Hecla had just escaped, the ice
pressing forcibly upon her cable at times, so as to endanger her being forced
on shore by it. Lieutenant Liddon very prudently, therefore, unshipped his
rudder, and otherwise prepared his ship in the best manner he could for
taking the beach, which is here tolerably bold, and quite soft and muddy.
Happily, however, the westerly wind, which shortly after sprung up, prevented
any accident of this nature.

Many of the pools of water upon the ice were slightly frozen over during Sun. 30.
the night, which had seldom been the case for several weeks before, but which
now took place almost every night for the rest of the season, as soon as the
sun had become low. At three P.M. another large portion of the ice near us
detached itself from the main-body, and floated away to the eastward, leaving
us a space of three or four hundred yards in extent clear all round the ship,
of which circumstance we immediately took advantage to weigh the anchor,
and shift our birth further from the shore.

The wind continued fresh from the W.S.W., and at half-past seven P.M. I
was informed by Mr. Palmer that a separation of the ice had just taken place-
in the offing, which, on going into the crow’s nest, I found to consist of a
lane of clear water, narrow and not altogether continuous, lying in a direction
nearly parallel to that of the coast, and about three miles distant from it,
being probably the boundary of the last winter’s ice. From the outer point
of the reef of Winter Harbour a crack commenced, and could be traced, at
intervals, till it appeared to join the line of separation before described ; the
ice across the mouth of the harbour remained perfectly compact and unbroken,
so that we could still do nothing but watch the progress of the operation
which seemed at length to have commenced in earnest.

The wind being from the S.S.W. during the night, served to close the lane Mon. 31.
of water which had appeared in the offing the preceding day, which we con-
sidered a favourable circumstance, as shewing that the external mass of ice
was in motion. In the course of the day, the wind shifting to the W.N.W.,
we once more discovered a small opening between the old and young floes, and
at eleven P.M., the whole body of the ice in the harbour was perceived to be
moving slowly out to the south-eastward, breaking away, for the first time,

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

226 .

1820. at the pointy form the entrance of the harbour. This sudden and

unexpected change rendering it probable that we should at length be re-
leased, I sent to Captain Sabine, \yho had been desirous of continuing his
observations on the pendulum to the last moment,, to request he would
have the clocks ready for embarkation at an early hour in the morning.

I furnished Lieutenant Liddon with instructions for his future guidance during
the ensuing season of operations, appointing also certain places of rendez-
vous, to facilitate our meeting, in case of unavoidable separation during that
period. I sent also on board the Griper, in compliance with my Instructions
on that head, a chart of our late discoveries, together with a duplicate copy -
of every document of interest relating to the Expedition.

The latitude of the anchorage in Winter Harbour, by the mean of

thirty-nine meridian altitudes, is 74° 47' 19".36 N.

The longitude, by the mean of six hundred and
ninety-two sets of observations, consisting of six thou-
sand eight hundred and sixty-two lunar distances - 110° 48' 29". 2 W.

The dip of the magnetic needle 88° 43' N.

The variation 127° 47' 50" E.

The mean time of high water, on the full and change days of the
moon, - .-.--.- -1 hour 29 minutes.

{May - - - 2 feet 61 inches.

June - - - 2 „ 7

July - - - 2 „ 8|.

Arcmarlcablc

mafs

stone , resafO?linp
^ve roof of a house
on\vhic}ifkt Ships n
■were ennraved .

Haviue

TubTished by John Murray Mbenuaie Street LondcniMardilSzi.

JWalkcrJetdpf'

Amotumu’tU' was erected on this Jf.E.Rill

hill Sc a tylinder deposited IXcijhi above tiu^ level

of the sea. 274 feet

The land aradnallv rises /rom Eeef Point
totheJSr.E.mil ‘

Survey

WINTEK HARBOrR
MELVILLE ISLAND
June id20

WLay 1

June

Julv 1

4. oz \

3 7

'

0 .. 10

7 4.

1 0

z . 6*^ \

2 7

2.3-4.

^ tide those within the

Ohsen'otoiy

lot. 74. 47 10 N.
Zon.no /pS .i5 W.
Dip. S3. oM
Var .12J .So E.

itdes

Slean time of Ui^h Water ortfulLS: chanae days in
Winter Harbour 1 . .

Maximiim ofaicir height
J^Emrruun.

Mean

The Soundiruis are markea
doited line are in feet

Represents hummocks of lee
ayround in shoal water

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

during the Month of July, 1820.

■

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

1 Barometer.

!

Prevailing MTnds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

' Maxi-
mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1

o

o

+ 30

+ 40°58

inches.

29.C0

^ inches.
29.50

inches.

29.578

North.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

2

45

S6

40.50

29.70

29.62

29,657

N.N.E.

Ditto ditto.

3

53

34

43.83

29.73

29.71

29.720

North.

Light breezes and cloudy.

4

15

37

39.83

29.77

29.73

29.747

North.

Strong breezes — squalls occasionally.

o

52

37

44.33

29.83

29.75

29.775

North.

Moderate and cloudy.

0

51

43

47.67

29.83

29.75

29.787

North.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

7

o5

41

47.42

29.90

29.83

29.863

North.

Moderate and fine.

■ 8

55

43

48.75

29.90

29.86

29.882

N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

9

49

40

43.58

30.01

29.77

29.903

South.

Fresii breezes— occasional rain.

10

48

41

45.67

29.83

29.70

29.765

South.

Ditto ditto.

11

49

43

43.33

29.90

29.80

29.845

N.W.

Moderate and cloudy.

12

. 49

40

43.75

29.80

29.78

29.797

W.N.W.

Moderate with rain.

13

55

40

46.00

29.82

29.76

29.790

S.byW. to N.N.W.

Ditto ditto.

14

56

32

48.25

29.76

29.66

29.720

S.S.W.

From light to strong breezes.

15

47

38

43.00

29.79

29.68

29.710

South,

Moderate and fine.

16

49

36.5

42.87

29.76

29.72

29.753

S.S.E.

Light airs and fine clear weather. *

17

60

41

51.08

29.81

29.75

29.790

North.

Ditto ditto.

18

48

34

43.12

29.84

29.69

29.788

S.S.E.

Light airs and fine clear weather.

19

50

36

43.17

29.75

29.69

29.723

S.E.

Light airs and hazy.

<20

43

38

40.50

29.70

29.60

29.623

N.N.E,

Light airs with rain.

45

33

40.33

29.61

29.60

29.623

N. by E.

Fresh breezes and cloudy'.

]

22

50

37

45.01

29.69

29.66

29.675

N.N.E.

Ditto ditto.

23

43

34

39.17

29.70

29.67

29.690

North.

Ditto ditto.

21

49

36

41.83

29.71

29.60

29.678

South.

Moderate and fine.

t

25

50

35.5

43.58

29.59

29.31

25.453

E. by N. to S.W:

Light breezes and fine.

26

42

34

36.92

29.27

29.13

29.175

W.N.W.

F^resh breezes and cloudy — Snow and rainl '

•27

37

32.5

34.67

29.44

29.26

29.387

W.N.AV.

Ditto ditto.

‘2S

42

34

37.29

29.39

29.30

29.335

round Coinpass.

Light airs and cloudy.

!29‘

38

32

34.58

29.52

29.34

29.152

S.W;

Fresh breezes and cloudy : hail and snoW.

130

42

32

37.25

29.55

29.52

29.555

S.S.W. to West.

Moderate and cloudy ; hail and sleet.

{31

40

31.5

36.96

29.52

29.44

29.487

< S.S.W. to )

1 W.N.W. 5

Fresh breezes and cloudy ; snow and rain.

+ 60

+ 32

+ 42.41

30.01

29.13

29.668

2 G 2

228

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

CHAPTER X.

LEAVE WINTER HARBOUR — FLATTERING APPEARANCE OF THE SEA TO THE

WESTWARD — STOPPED BY THE ICE NEAR CAPE HAY FURTHER PROGRESS

TO THE LONGITUDE OF 113° 48' 22". 5, BEING THE WESTERNMOST
MERIDIAN HITHERTO REACHED IN THE POLAR SEA, TO THE NORTH OF
AMERICA BANKS’S LAND DISCOVERED — INCREASED EXTENT AND DIMEN-

SIONS OF THE ICE — RETURN TO THE EASTWARD, TO ENDEAVOUR TO
PENETRATE THE ICE TO THE SOUTHWARD — DISCOVERY OF SEVERAL
ISLANDS — RE-ENTER BARROW’S STRAIT, AND SURVEY ITS SOUTH COAST

PASS THROUGH SIR JAMES LANCASTER’S SOUND, ON OUR RETURN

TO ENGLAND.

1820.

August.

Tues. 1.

The wind still blowing fresh from the northward and westward, the ice
continued to drift out slowly from the harbour, till, at eight A.M., it had left
the whole space between the ships and Cape Hearne completely clear,
and at eleven o’clock there appeared to be water round the hummocks of
ice which lie aground off that point. In the mean time, our boats were
employed in embarking the clocks, tents, and observatory, while I sounded
the entrance of the harbour, in order to complete the survey, which no
opportunity had offered of doing before this time. At one P.M., having got
every thing on board, and the ice appearing to be still leaving the shore, we
weighed, and ran out of Winter Harbour, in which we had actually, as
had some time before been predicted, passed ten whole months, and a part of
the two remaining ones, September and August. The mind is always anxious,
however, to find some ground of encouragement and hope for attaining the
object of its pursuit, and we did not fail to remember, on this occasion, that
short as our season of navigation must of necessity be, we were about to
begin that season on the anniversary of the day on which we had commenced

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

229

our discoveries from the entrance of Sir James Lancaster’s Sound westward, 1820.
in the preceding year ; and that if we were favoured with the same degree of
success during the same period as before, there could be little doubt of the
eventual accomplishment of our enterprise.

In running along shore towards Cape Hearne, generally at the distance of
half a mile from the land, we had from ten to sixteen fathoms’ water, and
rounded the hummocks off the point in six and a half fathoms by three P.M.

As we opened the point, it was pleasing to see that the coast to the west-
ward of it was more clear of ice, (excepting the loose pieces which lay
scattered about in every direction, but which would not very materially
have impeded the navigation with a fair wind,) than it had been when we first
arrived off it, a month later in the foregoing year; the main ice having
been blown off by the late westerly and north-westerly winds, to the distance
of four or five miles from the shore, which, from all we have seen on this
part of the coast, appears to be its utmost limit. The navigable channel, with
a beating wind between the ice and the land, was here from one to two
or two miles and a half in width, and this seemed, from the mast-head, to con-
tinue as far as the eye could reach along-shore to the westward.

We found the wind much more westerly after we rounded the point, which
made our progress slow and tedious ; the more so, as we had every minute
to luff for one piece of ice, and to bear up for another, by which much
ground was unavoidably lost. We also found the ships to be considerably
impeded by a tide or current setting to the eastward, which, as it slackened
about seven in the evening, I considered to be the flood, the time of high
water at Winter Harbour this day being about half-past seven. After a
very few tacks, we had the mortification to perceive, that the Griper sailed
and worked much worse than before, notwithstanding every endeavour
which Lieutenant Liddon had been anxiously making during her re-equip-
ment, to improve those qualities in which she had been found deficient.

She missed stays several times in the course of the evening, with smooth
water, and a fine working breeze ; and, by midnight, the Hecla had gained
eight miles to windward of her, which obliged me to heave-to, notwith-
standing the increased width of the navigable channel, the weather having
become hazy, so as to endanger our parting company.

At three A.M., on the 2d, the Griper having joined us, we again made Wed. 2.
sail to the westward. As, however, I could not but consider that her bad
sailing had already lost us a distance of at least seven miles in the first day

230

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

August.

after our leaving harbour ; and, as it was evident that such detention must,
if continued, absolutely preclude the possibility of accomplishing the main
object of the Expedition, I addressed a letter to Lieutenant Liddon, de-
.siring to be made acquainted with all the circumstances of the Griper’s
incapacity, that immediate steps might be taken, either for improving
her trim by any means in our power, or, in the event of failing to do so,
for removing her crew and provisions to the Hecla, and prosecuting the
voyage in that ship singly.

During the whole forenoon of the 2d, we observed a well-defined line of
ripple, at the distance of two or three miles from the land, and a fe w hun-
dred yards from the edge of the ice, running parallel to the shore. We
tried the current about noon, by the small , boat moored to the bottom, on
each side of this ripple ; and found that outside, or to the southward of it,
it was running to the eastward at the rate of one mile per hour, while within
it, no current Avas perceptible. Our latitude, at noon, by an indifferent
observation, was 74° 3G' 33", and the longitude by account 110° 59', being in
forty-nine fathoms’ water, on a bottom of blue clay.

Soon after noon, a breeze sprung up from the S.S.W., which being rather
upon the shore, made it likely that the ice Avould soon begin to close it ; we,
therefore, began to look out for a situation where the ships might be se-
cured in-shore, behind some of the heavy grounded ice, Avhich had so often
before afforded us shelter under similar circumstances. At one o’clock, we
perceived that a heavy floe had already closed completely in with the land,
at a point a little to the westAvard of us, preventing all hope of further
progress for the present in that direction. A boat was, therefore, sent to
examine the ice in-shore, and a favourable place having been found for
our purpose, the ships Avere hauled in, and secured there, the Griper’s
boAV resting on the beach, in order to alloAV the Hecla to lie in security
without her. This place Avas so completely sheltered from the access of the
main body of the ice, that I began to think seriously of taking advantage of
this situation to remove the Griper’s creAV on board the Hecla, and had con-
sulted the officers upon the subject. The circumstances, however, which
subsequently occurred, rendering such a measure inexpedient, because no
longer necessary to the accomplishment of the object in vieAV, by which
alone it could be justified, I Avas induced to give it up, adopting the best
means in our power to remedy the evil in question.

The beach near Avhich Ave Avere lying is so bold, that, in standing off-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

231

and-on in the afternoon, in more than one part, we had from seven to ten 1820.
fathoms at two hundred yards from the shore ; to which distance, from the
confidence we had acquired in the regularity of the soundings, we had no
hesitation in standing as often as there was occasion to do so, and always
without any apparent risk. So perfectly free from danger, indeed, is the
whole of this coast, as long as the hand-leads are kept going, that it has
often occurred to me as not improbable, that the annual motion of large and
heavy masses of ice may in some degree prevent the accumulation of sandy
shoals near the shore, where local circumstances might otherwise tend to
produce them, as in other seas.

Shortly after our anchoring, the Griper’s people heard the growling of a
bear among the ice near them, but the animal did not appear ; and this was
the only instance of our meeting with a bear, during our stay at Melville
Island, except that which followed one of our men to the ships, soon after
our arrival in Winter Harbour. Both crews were sent on shore to pick
sorrel, which was here not less abundant than at our old quarters, but it was
now almost too old to be palatable, having nearly lost its acidity and juice.

We were here a mile or two to the westward of Lieutenant Hoppner’s
hunting-station, and the wall which he had built round his tents, with a
boarding-pike in the middle of it, was visible from the ships. The only
game we obtained here consisted of a few king-ducks, some of the young of
which were also procured.

The snow which fell in the night was, in the morning of the 3d, sue- Thins. 3.
ceeded by a thick fog, which continued during the day, preventing our seeing
the state of the ice to the westward. I, therefore, despatched Mr. Palmer in
a boat to the point, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it was still close
there. On his return in an hour, Mr. Palmer reported that no alteration had
taken place since the preceding day, there not being sufficient room for the
.smallest boat to pass between the ice and the point, close to which he found
a depth of nine fathoms. At night the wind got round to W.N.W., and after-
wards to north, which made the weather clear, and gave us hopes of the ice
drifting off the land.

At one A.M. on the 4ith, the loose ice was observed to be drifting in upon
us, the wind having veered to the eastward of north ; and soon after a
floe, of not less than five miles in length, and a mile and a half across, was
found to be approaching the shore at a quick rate. The ships were imme-
diately hauled as near the shore as possible, and preparation made for un-

232

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. shipping the rudders, if necessary. The floe was brought up, however, by
the masses of ice a-ground outside of us, with which it successively came in
contact, and the ships remained in perfect security ; the floe, as usual after
the first violence is over, moved off again to a little distance from the shore.
The meridian altitude of the sun gave the latitude of this station 74° 36' 06",
and the longitude by the chronometers was 111° 16' 39",

At noon the heavy floe at the point near us began to quit the land, and
at half-past one P.M., there being a narrow passage between them, the
breadth of which the breeze was constantly increasing, we cast off and
stretched to the westward. The channel which opened to us as we pro-
ceeded, varied in its general breadth from one to two miles ; in some places
it was not more than half a mile. The soundings were very regular, and
sufficiently deep close to the shore ; in one place we found twenty-three
fathoms at one hundred yards from the beach, in another fourteen at sixty
or seventy yards. At seven P.M., we passed the place where we had been
detained so long during the preceding September, and where Mr. Fife and
his party had been lost. We here seemed to be among our old acquaintance ;
and among these, the berg to which we had been anchored during so many
days of anxiety and fruitless labour was easily recognised, as well as the pile of
stones which had been erected on the hill above it. The wind was variable
and squally, but we made great progress along the land to the S.W.b.W., and
the Griper, by keeping up tolerably with the Hecla, in some measure re-
deemed her character with us. Having arrived off Cape Providence at eleven
P.M., the wind became light and baffling, so that we had just got far enough
to see that there was a free and open channel, beyond the westernmost
point visible of Melville Island, when our progress was almost entirely
stopped for want of a breeze to enable us to take advantage of it. The
anxiety which such a detention occasions, in a sea where, without any ap-
parent cause, the ice frequently closes the shore in the most sudden manner,
can perhaps only be conceived by those who have experienced it. We had
now, also, arrived off that part of the coast which, from Cape Providence
westward, is high and steep near the sea, having no beach or shelving shore
on which the heavy masses of ice can fix themselves, so as to afford security
to a ship when the floes approach the land, which circumstance increased
the anxiety we felt to push on, while the present opportunity offered,
with all rapidity to the westward. We remarked, in sailing near the ice
this evening, while the wind was blowing a fresh breeze off the land,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

233

and therefore directly towards the ice, that it remained constantly calm 1820.
within three or four hundred yards of the latter ; this effect I never remember
to have witnessed before, upon the windward side of any collection of ice,
though it invariably happens in a remarkable degree to leeward of it. I may
here mention, as a striking proof of the accuracy with which astronomical
bearings of objects may be taken for marine surveys, that the relative bearing
of Capes Providence and Hay, as obtained this evening when the two head-
lands were opening, (being g } 82° 38' (w.,) differed only one minute from
that entered in the surveying-book, and found in the same manner, the pre-
ceding year.

We had this evening occasion to observe once more that darkness in the
horizon to the southward, and as far as a S.S.W. bearing, which had been
noticed from this station in 1819, and more frequently since that time, during
our detention in Winter Harbour, as bearing a great resemblance to the loom
of land in that quarter. We were the more inclined to the belief that there
was land at no very great distance to the southward, from the conviction that
there must be something which prevented the ice being drifted off the shore
of Melville Island in this place more than five or six miles, with any direction
or force of wind.

There was a very light air on the morning of the 5th, which died away an Sat. 5.
hour before noon, when the opportunity was taken to bring up some water
from the depth of one- hundred and five fathoms. Its temperature on coming
to the surface was 32°, that of the surface water being 31°!, and of the air 34°.

The depth of water here was two hundred and twenty-five fathoms, on a
bottom of dark brown clay, at the distance of four miles from the land ; the
latitude observed being 74° 21' 49", and the longitude by chronometers
112° 48' 18".

At one P.M., the weather continuing quite calm, and being desirous of
examining the ice in-shore, that we might be ready for the floes closing
upon us, I left the ship, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr. Edwards,
and landed near one of the numerous deep and broad ravines, with which
the whole of this part of the island is indented. All the ice which was here
fixed to the ground was literally upon the beach, with very deep water close
alongside of it, and none of the masses projected to a sufficient distance
from the shore, to afford the smallest shelter to the ships in case of accidents.

We saw several white hares here, and on this and many subsequent occasions
found them frequent the sides of the high banks which face the south, and

2H

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. where tliere is usually a plentiful vegetation for them to feed upon. We
were ascending the hill, which was found by trigonometrical measurement
to be eight hundred and forty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and on
which we found no mineral production but sandstone and clay iron-stone^
when a breeze sprung up from the eastward, bringing up the Griper which
had been left several miles astern. We only stopped, therefore, to obtain
observations for the longitude and the variation of the magnetic needle ; the
former of which was 112° 53' 32", and the latter 110° 56' 11" Easterly, and
then immediately returned on board, and made all sail to the westward.
After running for two hours without obstruction, we were once more mortified
in perceiving that the ice, in very extensive and unusually heavy floes, closed
in with the land a little to the westward of Cape Hay, and our channel of
clear water between the ice and the land gradually diminished in breadth
till at length it became necessary to take in the studding sails, and to haul
to the wind, to look about us. I immediately left the ship, and went in a
boat to examine the grounded ice off a small point of land, such as always
occurs on this coast at the outlet of each ravine. I found that this point
offered the only possible shelter which could be obtained, in case of the ice
coming in ; and 1, therefore, determined to take the Hecla in-shore immedi-
ately, and to pick out the best birth which circumstances would admit. As I
was returning on board with this intention I found that the ice was already
rapidly approaching the shore ; no time was to be lost, therefore, in getting
the Hecla to her intended station, which was effected by half-past eight P.M.,
being in nine to seven fathoms water, at the distance of twenty yards from
the beach, which was lined all round the point with very heavy masses
of ice, that had been forced by some tremendous pressure into the ground.
Our situation was a dangerous one, having no shelter from ice coming
from the westward, the whole of which, being distant from us less than half
a mile, was composed of floes infinitely more heavy than any we had else-
where met with during the voyage. The Griper was three or four miles
astern of us at the time the ice began to close, and I therefore directed
Lieutenant Liddon by signal to secure his ship in the best manner he could,
without attempting to join the Hecla ; he accordingly made her fast at
eleven P.M., near a point like that at which we were lying, and two or three
miles to the eastward.

At the time of making the Hecla fast, a current was setting to the west-
ward, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, with a strong eddy running

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

235

into the bight where we lay ; at ten P.M. it took a sudden turn, all the loose 1820,
ice near us running past the ship out of the bight, and the floes outside
beginning to set to the eastward, and towards the land withal. We, therefore,
hauled the ship still more into the bight formed by the point, getting her into
four fathoms abaft and six forward, and abreast a part of the beach where there
was not quite so much heavy ice within us, to endanger the ship being
crushed. This was done from a belief that, if the floes came in, the ship
must inevitably be “ nipped,” and in this case it was better to be lying in
six fathoms than nine; besides, the masses of ice now inside of us, not
being so large as the rest, might possibly be forced up on the shore before
the ship, instead of ofiering so great a resistance as to expose her to alt the
force of the squeeze. On the whole of this steep coast, wherever we
approached the shore, we found a thick stratum of blue and solid ice, firmly
embedded in the beach, at the depth of from six to ten feet under the surface
of the water. This ice has probably been the lower part of heavy masses
forced aground by the pressure of the floes from without, and still adhering
to the viscous mud of which the beach is composed, after the upper part has,
in course of time, dissolved. Captain Sabine suggested, that the under-
ground ice found in cold countries, and to which I have before alluded, might
thus have been deposited. The land gains upon the sea, as it is called, in
process of time, as it has certainly done here, from the situation in which we
found drift-wood and the skeletons of whales : the ice which fixes itself upon
the beach is annually covered over in part by alluvial deposit, and thus may
a connected stratum of it be buried for ages several feet below the surface of
the earth. From the tops of the hills in this part of Melville Island a conti-
nuous line of this sub-marine ice could be distinctly traced for miles along
the coast.

In running along the shore this evening, we had noticed near the sea what
at a distance had every appearance of a high wall artificially built, and which
was the resort of numerous birds. Captain Sabine, being desirous to examine
it, as well as to procure some specimens of the birds, set out, as soon as we
anchored, for that purpose, accompanied by his servant and Serjeant Martin.

The wall proved to be composed of sand-stone in horizontal strata from
twenty to thirty feet in height, which had been left standing, so as to exhibit
its present artificial appearance, by the decomposition of the rock and earth
about it. Large flocks of glaucous gulls had chosen this as a secure retreat
from the foxes, and every other enemy but man ; and when our people first

2 H 2

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VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. went into the ravine in which it stands, they were so fierce in defence of
their young, that it was scarcely safe to approach them till a few shots had
been fired.

Sun. 6. Besides a number of gulls. Captain Sabine and his party brought with
them ten hares, which, together with what we had obtained as we came
along the land, furnished us with a fresh meal for the whole crew. Captain
Sabine also brought me word from Lieutenant Liddon that the Griper was in
a situation exactly similar to that of the Hecla, where “ nipping” appeared
unavoidable if the floes should come in. The ice remained quiet, however,
about the Hecla during the day, even though a strong breeze freshened
up from the E.S.E., with continued snow; a circumstance which, while it
added to our present security, did not give us very flattering hopes that there
could be any room for the ice to drift to the westward. In the course of the
evening I heard again from the Griper, Lieutenant Liddon informing me that
the floes had once come in towards her, so as to lift her two feet out of
the water, and then retired without doing any damage. I acquainted
Lieutenant Liddon with the similarity of our situation to his, and desired
him not to join us at present, even should the ice open sufficiently to allow
him to do so ; for there was not room for the two ships where the Hecla was
lying, and the chances of saving one of them from the catastrophe we had
reason to apprehend, were greater by their being separate. At eleven P.M. a
narrow lane of water opened near the Griper, extending about three miles to
the S.S.W. ; near us it had also slackened a little about midnight, but it would
have been difficult to find a “ hole” of water in which a boat could have floated,
more than three hundred yards beyond the ship.

Mon. 7. On the morning of the 7th, a black whale (Balcena Mysticetus), came up
close to the Hecla, being the first we had seen since the 22d of August the
preceding year, about the longitude of 91°| W. ; it therefore acquired among
us the distinctive appellation of the whale. Since leaving Winter Harbour,
we had also, on two or three occasions, seen a solitary seal. The wind con-
tinued fresh from the east and E.N.E. in the morning, and the loose ice came
close in upon us, but the main body remained stationary at the distance of
nearly half a mile. Considering that it might be of service to know the
state of the ice further to the south and west than the view from the Hecla’s
mast-head would allow us, I despatched Lieutenant Beechey with one
of the marines, along the top of the hills to the westward, for that pur-
pose. At two P.M., he returned Avith a fawn, which gave us thirty-eight

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

237

pounds of venison, and with the information of having discovered land from 1820.
W.S.W. to S.S.W. at a great distance, and the loom of it also extending as
far round to the eastward as a S.E. bearing. Lieutenant Beechey con-
sidered the general distance of the land to be from forty-to fifty miles, the
nearest being about a S.S.W. bearing, and three capes could be plainly dis-
tinguished with a glass. The report of the state of the ice was by no means
favourable to our hope's, the sea being covered with floes as far as the eye
could reach, and the space between them so filled with broken ice, or the
floes so closely joined, that scarcely a “ hole” of water was to be seen.

In the afternoon, a man from each mess was sent on shore to pick sorrel,
which was here remarkably fine and large, as well as more acid than any we
had lately met with. The shelter from the northerly winds, afibrded by the
high land on this part of the coast, together with its southern aspect, renders
the vegetation here immediately next the sea much more luxuriant than in
most parts of Melville Island which we visited ; and a considerable addition
was made to our collection of plants, of which an account is given in
another place.

The easterly breeze died away in the course of the day, and at three
P.M., was succeeded by a light air from the opposite quarter; and as this
freshened up a little, the loose ice began to drift into our bight, and
that on the eastern side of the point to drive off. It became expedient,
therefore, immediately to shift the ship round the point, where she was made
fast in four fathoms abaft, and seventeen feet forward, close alongside the
usual ledge of submarine ice, which touched her about seven feet under
water, and which, having few of the heavy masses aground upon it,
would, probably, have allowed her to be pushed over it, had a heavy
pressure occurred from without. It was the more necessary to moor the ship
in some such situation, as we found from six to seven fathoms’ water, by
dropping the hand-lead down close to her bow and quarter on the outer
side.

We had scarcely secured the ship, when the wind once more shifted to
the eastward, and the loose ice almost immediately began to move back in
the opposite direction. The wind being, however, rather off the land than
otherwise, I preferred remaining in our present situation, on account of
the safer beach which we found here ; and as there was, in other respects,
little or no choice betwixt the two places, unless the wind came more on the
land. At half-past ten P.M., the loose ice began to fill up the small space which

238

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. had hitherto been clear about the ship, although the wind was at N E

Auo'USt • • X o •

which is more off the land than we had before experienced it. Several
heavy pieces of floes drove close past us, not less than ten or fifteen feet in
thickness, but they were fortunately stopped by the point of land without
coming in upon us. At eleven o’clock, however, a mass of this kind,
being about half an acre in extent, drove in, and gave the ship a consider-
able “ nip” between it and the land-ice, and then grazed past her to the
westward. I now directed the rudder to be unhung, and the ship to be
swung with her head to the eastward, so that the bow, being the strongest
part, might receive the first and heaviest pressure.

Tues. 8. The ice did not disturb us again till five A.M. on the 8th, when another
floe-piece came in, and gave the ship a heavy rub, and then went past, after
which it continued slack about us for several hours. Every thing was so
quiet at nine o’clock, as to induce me to venture up the hill abreast of us,
in order to have a view of the newly-discovered land to the south-west,
which, indeed, I had seen indistinctly and much refracted from the Hecla’s
deck in the morning. The weather being rather unfavourable, I had not so
clear a view as Lieutenant Beechey, but I distinctly saw high and bold land
from S. 75° W. to S. 30° W., the part most plainly visible, and appearing
the nearest, being at a S. 55° W. bearing. The general distance of this
land, I considered to be somewhat greater than that at which Lieutenant
Beechey had estimated it, and it is placed on the chart at from sixteen to
eighteen leagues from the station at which the ships were lying. This land,
which extends beyond the 117th degree of west longitude, and is the
most western yet discovered in the Polar Sea, to the northward of the
American Continent, was honoured with the name of Banks’s Land, out of
respect to the late venerable and worthy President of the Royal Society,
whose long life was actively engaged in the encouragement and promotion of
discovery and general science.

The loom of land was frequently seen as far as a south-east bearing from
the present station of the ships, which corresponds with the appearances
often observed during our stay in Winter Harbour ; as I have scarcely a
doubt, therefore, that this forms a continuation of Banks’s Land, which is,
in all probability, another island of the North Georgian group, I have
marked it on the chart by an unshaded line as far as the above bearing.

From the top of the hill, not a “ hole” could be seen in the ice in any
direction ; the wind being extremely variable during the day, kept us in

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

239

a constant state of anxiety, lest the ice should come in, but it gave us no 1820.
disturbance. A few hares were brought in by our sportsmen, and a dovekey
was seen, being the first for this season.

On the morning of the 9th, a musk-ox came down to graze on the beach, Wed. 9.
near the ships. A party was despatched in pursuit, and having hemmed him
in under the hill, which was too steep for him to ascend, succeeded in killing
him. When first brought on board, the inside of this animal, which was a
male, smelt very strongly of musk, of which the whole of the meat also
tasted, more or less, and especially the heart. A description of this animal
being given in the Appendix, I shall only add respecting it, that it furnished
us with four hundred and twenty-one pounds of beef, which was served
to the crews as usual, in lieu of their salt provisions, and was very much
relished by us, notwithstanding the peculiarity of its flavour^. The meat was
remarkably fat, and, as it hung up in quarters, looked as fine as any beef in
an English market. A small seal, (Phoca Vitulina), killed by the Griper’s
people, was also eaten by them; and it was generally allowed to be very
tender and palatable, though not very sightly in its appearance, being of a
disagreeable red colour.

In the morning-watch, a breeze sprung up from the westward, which we
were always ready to welcome, having found that it invariably served to open
the ice, while an easterly wind as constantly made it closer. This was,
however, of short duration, being succeeded soon after noon by a light air
from the south-east, which brought all the loose ice into our bight. At half-
past three P.M., a large piece of a very heavy floe came close to us, and
would have given us a “ nip” against the shore, had we not avoided it by
heaving the ship a few yards a-head in good time. It was then brought up by
the point of land, and remained quietly half a cable’s length astern of us, there
not being room for it to drift farther to the westward between the point and an
enormous floe which blocked up the passage to the southward and westward.

At ten P.M., the whole body of ice which was then a quarter of a mile from
us, was found to be drifting in upon the land, and the ship was warped back
a little way to the westward, towards that part of the shore, which was
most favourable for allowing her to be forced up on the beach. At eleven

* Some pieces of this m.eat, which we brought to England, were found to have acquired
a much more disagreeable flavour than when first killed, though they had not undergone
putrefaction in the slightest degree.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

2i0

1820. o’clock, the piece of a floe, which came near us in the afternoon, and which
had since drifted back a few hundred yards to the eastward, received the
pressure of the whole body of ice, as it came in. It split across in various
directions, with a considerable crash, and presently after we saw a part,
several hundred tons in weight, raised slowly and majestically, as if by the
application of a screw, and deposited on another part of the floe from which
it had broken, presenting towards us the surface that had split, which was of
a fine blue colour, and very solid and transparent. The violence with which
the ice was coming in being thus broken, it remained quiet during the
night, which was calm, with a heavy fall of snow.

Thur. 10. The mass of ice which had been lifted up the preceding day, being drifted
close to us on the morning of the 10th, I sent Lieutenant Beechey to measure
its thickness, which proved to be forty-two feet ; and, as it was a piece of a
regular floe, this measurement may serve to give some idea of the general thick-
ness of the ice in this neighbourhood. There were some, however, which were
of much larger dimensions ; an immense floe which formed the principal, or
at least the nearest, obstruction to the westward, was covered with large
hummocks, giving to its upper surface the appearance of hill and dale, some-
what in this manner:

The thickness of this floe at its nearest edge was six or seven feet above the
sea, and as about six-sevenths are usually immersed, the whole thickness
would appear, in the common way of reckoning it, to have been from forty
to fifty, feet, which corresponds with that actually measured by Lieutenant
Beechey. But the hummocks were many of them at least from fifteen to
twenty-five feet above the sea; so that the solidity and thickness of this
enormous floe must have been infinitely greater than any thing we had seen
before. It was the opinion of Lieutenant Beechey, and of Messi"s. Allison
and Fife, that it very much resembled the ice met with at Spitzbergen ;
but, according to the account of the two latter, was much heavier than
any which they had seen there : Lieutenant Beechey considered that
there was much more snow upon the surface of the Spitzbergen ice. It
is here of some importance to notice, that the “ loose ice” in this neigh-
bourhood was on the same increased scale as the floes, so that the danger

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

24.1

to be apprehended from the violent contact of one of these pieces was
little less than that from a floe of ordinary size, such as occurs in Baffin’s
Bay. This circumstance, also, very materially altered the character of the
navigation on that part of the coast, for the loose pieces being most of
them of infinitely greater bulk and weight in the water than either of our ships,
the latter could no longer turn them out of their way, as usual, in sailing
among this kind of ice, but were invariably stopped short in their progress,
with a violent concussion, which nothing but their extraordinary strength
could have enabled them to withstand.

It now became evident, from the combined experience of this and the pre-
ceding year, that there was something peculiar about the south-west extremity
of Melville Island, which made the icy sea there extremely unfavourable to
navigation, and which seemed likely to bid defiance to all our efibrts to
proceed much farther to the westward in this parallel of latitude. We had
arrived off* it on the 17th of September, 1819, after long and heavy gales
from the north-westward, by which alone the ice is ever opened on this
coast, and found it, in unusually heavy and extensive fields, completely
closing in with the land, a mile or two to the eastward of where we were
now lying. We again arrived here in the early part of August, and though
the rest of the navigation had been remarkably clear for the fifty miles
between this and W^inter Harbour, seeming to afford a presumptive proof,
that the season was rather a favourable one than otherwise, the same ob-
struction presented itself as before ; nor did there appear, from our late
experience, a reasonable ground of hope, that any fortuitous circum-
stance, such as an alteration in winds or currents, was likely to remove
the formidable impediments which we had now to encounter. The in-
creased dimensions of the ice hereabouts would not alone have created an
insurmountable difficulty in the navigation, but that it was very naturally
accompanied by a degree of closeness which seldom or never admitted
an open space of clear water of sufficient size for a ship, or even a boat, to
sail in. We had been lying near our present station with an easterly wind
blowing fresh for thirty-six hours together ; and although this was consi-
derably off the land, beyond the western point of the island now in sight, the
ice had not, during the whole of that time, moved a single yard from the
shore ; affording a proof that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty
to move to the westward, and offering a single and a striking exception to our
former experience.

1820.

August.

242

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. Under these circumstances, I began to consider whether it would not be
advisable, whenever the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few miles
of the westing we had already made, and to run along the margin of the
floes, in order to endeavour to find an opening leading to the southward,
taking advantage of which we might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to
the Avestward in a lower latitude. I was the more inclined to make this
attempt, from its having long become evident to us, that the navigation of this
part of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the occasional
openings beUveen the ice and the shore ; and that, therefore, a continuity of
land is essential, if not absolutely necessary, for this purpose. Such a con-
tinuity of land, which was here about to fail us, must necessarily be furnished
by the northern coast of America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found ;
and, as a large portion of our short season had already been occupied in
fruitless attempts to penetrate further to the westward in our present parallel,
under circumstances of more than ordinary risk to the ships, I determined,
whenever the ice should open sufficiently, to put into execution the plan I had
proposed.

The westerly wind cleared us by slow degrees of the loose masses of ice
about the ship, and in the afternoon the main body went off about three
hundred yards, drifting also a little to the eastward. It may always be
expected, in icy seas, that a breeze of wind, however light, will set the ice
in motion, if there be any room for it to move ; in such cases, the smaller
pieces of course begin to drift the first, and the heavier ones soon follow,
though at a slower rate : among loose ice, therefore, almost every separate
piece is seen to move with a different velocity, proportioned to its depth
under water.

Having gone on shore in the evening to make some observations for the
variation, I afterwards ascended the hill, in order to take a view of the state
of the ice in the offing. The breeze had now begun to open several “ holes,”
particularly in the west and south-east quarters ; it was most loose in the
latter direction, except close along the land to the eastward, where a ship
might possibly have been got, had this been our immediate object. The ice,
however, looked just as promising to the westward as in any other quarter,
and I found, before I returned on board, that it continued to drift to the
eastward, and to leave more and more space of clear water in the required
direction. I, therefore, communicated to Lieutenant Liddon my intention of
pushing on to the westward the instant the sea became clear enough for the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

243

ships to make any progress with a beating wind ; but, in the event of failing 1820.
to do so, that I should next try what could be done by attempting a passage
considerably to the southward of our present parallel.

At seven P.M., we shipped the rudder, and crossed the top-gallant yards,
in readiness for moving ; and I then again ascended the hill, and walked a
mile to the westward, along the brow of it, that not a moment might be lost,
after the ice to the westward should give us the slightest hope of making any
progress by getting under-way. Although the holes had certainly increased
in size and extent, there was still not sufficient room even for one of our
boats to have worked to windward ; and the impossibility of the ships’ doing so
was rendered more apparent, on account of the current which, as I have before
had occasion to remark, is always produced in these seas, soon after the
springing up of a breeze, and which was now running to the eastward, at
the rate of at least one mile per hour. It was evident, that any attempt to
get the ships to the westward must, under circumstances so unfavourable, be
attended with the certain consequence of their being drifted the contrary
way ; and nothing could, therefore, be done but still to watch, which we did
most anxiously, every alteration in the state of the ice. The wind, how-
ever, decreasing as the night came on, served to diminish the hopes with
which we had flattered ourselves of being speedily extricated from our
present confined and dangerous situation. At half-past ten P.M., Lieutenant
Beechey, at my request, ascended the hill ; and, on his return at eleven
o’clock, reported that, “ the ice was slack from W.b.N. to W.S.W., but that,
without a leading wind, it did not appear that a ship could make any way
among it.”

At one A.M., on the 11th, I despatched Mr. Ross to the top of the hill, Frid.li.
from whence he observed, that “ the ice had slackened considerably from
W.b.S. to south, but was still too close for a ship to work among it.” At this
time the wind was dying away gradually ; and, at four A.M., when Mr. Ross
again ascended the hill, it had fallen quite calm. The ice immediately
ceased to drift to the eastward, and at half-past five, a light breeze springing
up from the south-east, caused it at once to return in the opposite direction.

Being desirous, if possible, to take advantage of this breeze. Lieutenant
Beechey and myself again went on shore, in order to form a judgment
whether there was room for the ships to sail among the ice, should it appear
otherwise expedient to get them under- way. We agreed that it was by no

means practicable with the present light wind, which would scarcely have

2 12

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

244'

1820. given them steerage-way, even in a clear and unincumbered sea, and much
less, therefore, could have enabled them to force their way through the
numberless heavy masses which lay in our way to the westward. So close,
indeed, did the ice about us still continue, that it was necessary to shift
the Hecla once more round to the westward of the point of land, to secure
her from that which the change of wind was once more bringing back in
great abundance, and at the rate of nearly a mile per hour. In an hour
after we had effected this, I had reason to be satisfied with the deter-
mination to which I had come, of not getting the ships under-way, for there
was literally not a single “ hole” of open water visible from the mast-head,
in which a boat would have floated, except immediately under the lee of
the point where we were lying, and within one hundred yards of the ship.

The latitude observed at our present station was 74° 25' 35", the longitude,
by chronometers, 113° 43' 01", and the variation of the magnetic needle,
106° 06' 38" Easterly, each of these being the mean of several observations
taken on different days. There was nothing in the appearance or productions
of this part of the island different from those which had been found elsewhere,
except that the ravines were more strikingly grand and picturesque, in con-
sequence of the greater height of the land upon this part of the coast : this,
as I have before remarked, was found, in one instance, to exceed eight
hundred feet above the level of the sea ; and the hills, immediately at the
back of this, at the distance of nine or ten miles, appeared to be at least
one or two hundred feet higher; so that the extreme height of Melville
Island, as far as we had an opportunity of seeing it, may, perhaps, be
fairly estimated at about one thousand feet. The rocks consisted entirely of
sandstone in horizontal strata, and the soil of sand, intermixed occasionally
with decayed plants, forming here and there a sort of vegetable mould, on
which the other plants, and a few tufts of very luxuriant moss, were
growing: we remarked, that almost the whole of the plants had a part
of their flowers cropped by the hares, and other animals which are fond
of feeding in the sheltered and Avarm situations afforded by the banks next
the sea.

The Aveather was foggy for some hours in the morning, but cleared up in -
the afternoon, as the sun acquired poAver. The wind increased to a fresh
gale from the eastward, at nine P.M., being the second time that it had done
so, Avhile Ave had been lying at this station ; a circum.stance Avhich we AA^ere
the more inclined to notice, as the easterly Avinds had hitherto been more

/

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

245

faint and less frequent than those from the westward. In this respect, 1820.
therefore, we considered ourselves unfortunate, as experience had already
shewn us, that none but a westerly wind ever produced upon this coast,
or, indeed, on the southern coast of any of the North Georgian Islands, the
desired effect of clearing the shores of ice.

At nine P.M., Lieutenant Beechey could discover from the top of the hill
no clear water in any direction. After ten o’clock the wind blew much
harder, which obliged us to strike the top-gallant yards, and to brace the
yards to the wind ; the ice had by this time ceased moving to the westward,
having apparently, as before, reached its ne plus ultra in that direction. The
electrometer was tried in the course of the evening, in the usual manner, the
sky being full of hard dense clouds, and the wind blowing strong; but no
sensible effect was produced upon the gold leaf.

The gale continued strong during the night, and the ice quite stationary. Sat. 12.
Not a pool of clear water could be seen in any direction, except just under
the lee of our point, where there was a space large enough to contain half a
dozen sail of ships, till about noon, when the whole closed in upon us without
any apparent cause, except that the wind blew in irregular puffs about that
time, and at one P.M. it was alongside. The ship was placed in the most
advantageous manner for taking the beach, or rather the shelf of submarine
ice, and the rudder again unshipped and hung across the stem. The ice
which came in contact with the ship’s side consisted of very heavy loose
pieces, drawing twelve or fourteen feet water, which, however, we considered
as good “ fenders,” comparatively with the enormous fields which covered
the sea just without them. So much, indeed, do we judge at all times by
comparison, that this kind of ice, which in Davis’ Strait we should not like
to have had so near us, was now considered of infinite service, when inter-
posed between the ship and the heavier floes. Every thing remained quiet
for the rest of the day, without producing any pressure of consequence ; the
wind came round to N.b.E. at night, but without moving the ice off the land.

Early in the morning of the 13th, I received, by Mr. Griffiths, a message Sun. 13.
from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that at eleven o’clock on the pre-
ceding night the ice had been setting slowly to the westward, and had at
the same time closed in upon the land where the Griper was lying, by which
means she was forced against the submarine ice, and her stern lifted two feet
out of the water. This pressure. Lieutenant Liddon remarked, had given
her a twist which made her crack a good deal, but apparently without suf-

246

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

August.

fering any material injury in her hull, though the ice was still pressing upon
her when Mr. Griffiths came away. She had at first heeled inwards, but on
being lifted higher, fell over towards the deep water. Under these circum-
stances, Lieutenant Liddon had very properly landed all the journals and
other documents of importance, and made every arrangement in his power
for saving the provisions and stores, in case of shipwreck, which he had now
every reason to anticipate. Convinced as I was that no human art or power
could, in our present situation, prevent such a catastrophe, whenever the
pressure of the ice became sufficient, I was more than ever satisfied with the
determination to which I had previously come, of keeping the ships apart,
during the continuance of these untoward circumstances, in order to increase
the chance of saving one of them from accidents of this nature. I, therefore,
thought it right merely to direct Lieutenant Liddon’s attention to the ne-
cessity of saving the provisions and fuel, in preference to any other species
of stores, and established signals to be made upon the point of land which in-
tervened between the ships, in case of any thing occurring. In the mean
time, the ice remained so close about the Hecla, that the slightest pressure
producing in it a motion towards the shore, must have placed us in a situation
similar to that of the Griper; and our attention was, therefore, diverted to the
more important object of providing, by every means in our power, for the
security of the larger ship, as being the principal dep6t of provisions and
other resources.

At five P.M. Lieutenant Liddon acquainted me by letter, that the Griper
had at length righted, the ice having slackened a little around her, and that
all the damage she appeared to have sustained was in her rudder, which was
badly split, and would require some hours’ labour to repair it, whenever the
ice should allow him to get it on shore. He also stated that, from the par-
ticular situation into which the Griper had been forced, and of the masses of
ice immediately about her, a westerly wind, though it might eventually clear
the shore, would in the first place subject her to another squeeze like that
from which she had just been so opportunely released. Lieutenant Beechey
observed from the hill, in the course of the day, that the ice was so compact
as not to leave an opening in any direction, and that it was set so close
against the shore, that nothing could have passed between them. It had
moved off a few yards from the Hecla for two or three hours, and in the
evening closed again, so as to press her firmly against the land, though
without any material strain. This pressure arose principally from the ap-

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

247

proach of the large block of ice which I have described as having been raised 1820.
up on the 9th, and which, having been frequently drifted backwards and
forwards past the ship since that time, had once more stationed itself rather
nearer to us than we could have wished. I may here remark that this mass,
of which we knew the dimensions by actual measurement, served, when
driving among the heavy floes in the offing, as a standard of comparison, by
which the height of the latter above the sea, and thence their whole bulk,
could be estimated with tolerable accuracy ; and it was principally in this
manner that a judgment was formed of those enormous fields with which this
part of the sea was incumbered. There was a very light air from the south-
ward and eastward for the greater part of the evening, and a fog came on as
the atmosphere cooled at night.

Soon after midnight the ice pressed closer in upon the Hecla than before, Mon. 14.
giving her a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, but without appearing
to strain her in the slightest degree. Most .of the boats had been lowered
down, and securely moored upon the beach, to prevent their being damaged,
should the ship be forced upon her broadside, and the rest were now placed
in a similar situation. By four P.M., the pressure had gradually decreased,
and the ship had only three or four inches heel ; in an hour after she had
perfectly righted, and the ice remained quiet for the rest of the day. A
light easterly wind, with small snow at times, continued till six A.M., when
it died away, and was soon after succeeded by a gentle air from the westward.

Mr. Fisher tried an experiment on the specific gravity of a piece of fioe-
ice taken up from alongside the ship, by which it appeared to be heavier
than that we had hitherto weighed in the same manner. Being formed into
a cube, whose sides measured one foot two inches and seven-tenths, and
placed to float in the sea, only one inch and eight-tenths of it remained
above the surface. The temperature of the sea-water at the time, was 34°,
and its specific gravity 1,0105.

The weather became foggy, with small rain in the afternoon ; before the
fog came on, however, Mr. Ross observed from the hill that the same un-
varied surface of impenetrable ice, as before, presented itself in every direc-
tion ; and a note from Lieutenant Liddon acquainted me that no alteration
had lately taken place in the neighbourhood of the Griper.

Every moment’s additional detention now served to confirm me in the
opinion I had formed, as to the expediency of trying, at all risks, to pene-
trate to the southward, whenever the ice would allow us to move at all.

248

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. rather than persevere any longer in the attempts we had been lately making
with so little success, to push on directly to the westward. I, therefore,
gave Lieutenant Liddon an order to run back a certain distance to the east-
ward, whenever he could do so, without waiting for the Hecla, should
that ship be still detained ; and to look out for any opening in the ice to the
southward, which might seem likely to favour the object I had in view,
waiting for me to join him, should any such opening occur.

The westerly breeze freshening up, with continued snow, the ice about
the ship began to move at seven P.M. The usual superficial current was
soon observed to make, carrying with it to the eastward the loose and broken
fragments of ice. At eight o’clock the heavier masses had also acquired
motion, and it became necessary to shelter the Hecla from their approach
by shifting her once more to the eastward of the point. In doing this, we
found the current at the extreme point running at the rate of two, or two and
a half miles an hour, so as to require great caution in laying out our warps
to prevent the ship being carried back to the eastward; and this not three
hours after it had first begun to make. The frequent experience we had of the
quickness with which currents are thus formed, in consequence merely of the
wind setting the various bodies of ice in motion, naturally leads to this
useful caution, that one or two trials of the set of the stream in icy seas
must not be too hastily assumed in drawing any conclusion as to its constant
or periodical direction. I am convinced, indeed, that, of all the circum-
stances which render the navigation among ice so precarious and uncertain,
there is none so liable to constant alteration, and on which, therefore, so
little dependence can be placed, as an indication of the existence of a
passage in this or that direction, as the set and velocity of the superficial
currents.

Tiies. 15. The breeze died away in the course of the night, just as the ice was
beginning to separate, and to drift away from the shore ; and, being suc-
ceeded by a wind off the land, which is here very unusual, Lieutenant
Liddon was enabled to make sail upon the Griper at two A.M. on the 15th,
in execution of the orders I had given him. As I soon perceived, however,
that she made little or no way, the wind drawing more to the eastward on
that part of the coast, and as the clear water was increasing along the shore
to the westward, much farther than we had yet seen it, I made the signal
of recall to the Griper, with the intention of making another attempt, which
the present favourable appearances seemed to justify, to push forward

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

249

without delay in the desired direction. At five A.M., therefore, as soon as i820.
the snow had cleared away sufficiently to allow the signal to be distinguished,
we cast off, and ran along shore, the wind having by this time veered to the
E.b.N., and blowing in strong puffs out of the ravines as we passed them.

We sailed along, generally at the distance of a hundred or a hundred and
fifty yards from the beach, our soundings being from ten to seventeen
fathoms ; and, after running a mile and a half in a N.W.b.W. direction, once
more found the ice offering an impenetrable obstacle to our progress west-
ward, at a small projecting point of land just beyond us. We, therefore,
hauled the ship into a birth which we were at this moment fortunate in
finding abreast of us, and where we were enabled to place the Hecla
within a number of heavy masses of grounded ice, such as do not often occur
on this steep coast, and which, comparatively with the situation we had lately
left, appeared a perfect harbour. In the mean time, the wind had failed our
consort, when she was a mile and a half short of this place ; and Lieutenant
Liddon, after endeavouring in vain to warp up to us, was obliged, by the ice
suddenly closing upon him, to place her in-shore in the first situation he
could find, which proved to be in very deep water, as well as otherwise so
insecure, as not to admit a hope of saving the ship, should the ice continue
to press in upon her. It now became of essential importance to endeavour
to get the Hecla so far into security in her present situation, as to alloAv of
assistance being sent to the Griper in case of accidents. With this view, I
assembled the officers and ship’s company, and having acquainted them with
my intention, caused such arrangements to be made for sending parties
round, accompanied by proper officers, as might prevent confusion whenever
that measure became necessary. The plan proposed was, to cut large scut-
tles or holes in the decks, if time were allowed for doing so, whenever the
wreck of the ship should appear to be unavoidable, in order to allow the
casks of provision to float up out of the hold, as in any other case they must
have sunk with the ship, in deep water. The Hecla’s crew were set to work
to saw off some thick tongues of ice, which prevented her going into a sort
of “ natural dock,” as the sailors term it, formed by the masses of grounded
ice ; a tedious and cold operation, which they performed with their usual
alacrity, and thus placed the ship in complete security. I then walked
round to the Griper, to acquaint Lieutenant Liddon with the arrangements
that had been made, and to consult with him as to the other means to
be adopted for her safety, and the preservation of the stores. We were

250

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. shortly afterwards, however, relieved from any further apprehension on this
account, by the ice gradually receding from the shore, in consequence of a
westerly breeze springing up, and allowing the Griper to warp up near
the Hecla, where, though she was by no means so safe as that ship, she
was at least placed in a situation, with which the extraordinary nature of
our late navigation taught us to be satisfied.

Mr. Fisher found very good sport in our new station, having returned in
the evening, after a few hours’ excursion, with nine hares ; the birds had, of
late, almost entirely deserted us, a flock or two of ptarmigan and snow-
buntings, a few glaucous gulls, a raven, and an owl, being all that had been
Wed. 16. met with for several days,

A fog which had prevailed during the night, cleared away in the morning of
the 16th, and a very fine day succeeded, with a moderate breeze from the
westward. In order to have a clear and distinct view of the state of the ice,
after twenty-four hours’ wind from that quarter. Captain Sabine, Mr. Edwards,
and myself, walked about two miles to the westward, along the high part of
the land next the sea, from whence it appeared but too evident that no
passage in this direction was yet to be expected. The only clear water
in sight was a channel of about three-quarters of a mile wide in some places,
between the ice and the land, extending as far as a bold headland, bearing
N. 52° W., distant two miles and a quarter, which formed the Vi^estern ex-
treme in sight, and was called Cape Dundas, as appropriate to the name
which the island had received. The ice to the west and south-west was as
solid and compact, to all appearance, as so much land; to which, indeed,
the surface of many of the fields, from the kind of hill and dale I have
before endeavoured to describe, bore no imperfect resemblance. I have
no doubt that, had it been our object to circumnavigate Melville Island,
or, on the other hand, had the coast continued its westerly direction
instead of turning to the northward, we should still have contrived to pro-
ceed a little occasionally, as opportunities offered, notwithstanding the
increased obstruction which here presented itself ; but as neither of these
was the case, there seemed little or nothing to hope for from any
further attempts to prosecute the main object of the voyage in this place.
I determined, therefore, no longer to delay the execution of my former inten-
tions, and to make trial, if possible, of a more southern latitude, in which I
might follow up the success that had hitherto attended our exertions.

The place to which we had now walked, was the eastern bank of the

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

251

largest ravine we had ever seen upon the island; its width at the part next 1620.
the sea being above half a mile, and its sides, which are nearly per^
pendicular, not less than eight hundred feet in height. In watching the
little stream, not more than a yard or two wide and a few inches in
depth, now trickling along the bottom of this immense water-course, it Avas
impossible not to be forcibly struck with the consideration of the time
which must have been required, with means apparently so inadequate,
to hew out so vast a bed for the annual discharge of the winter’s snow
into the ocean. We here met with no other mineral than sandstone ; the
forniation of the rocks, as far as we could see them in the ravines, here and
there resembled large upright masses, or square pillars, standing amidst
the debris which surrounded them ; in other places, a range of sandstone, in
thin horizontal strata, was left in the same manner, having all the appear-
ance of a wall artificially constructed, and on these a square part sometimes
occurred, higher than the rest, not unlike chimneys, for which, in an
inhabited country, they might easily have been taken at a little distance.

In some of the higher parts of thp land, upon the brink of the precipice
which overlooks the sea, we remarked almost the first commencement of
ravines, consisting of small channels a yard or two in depth, and which, as
we then amused ourselves by reflecting, may one day resemble those im-
mense beds which constitute the most sublime and picturesque feature
that this island can boast. I have before remarked that, at the outlet of
these ravines, there is always a small point of land, formed by the soil and
stones which are there carried into the ocean ; I repeat this observation, for
the sake of adding that, in cases of danger from the sudden closing of
the ice, a ship may always be sure of meeting with one of these points,
which are too small to be seen at a distance, or to be delineated on
the chart, by steering for one of the ravines, the latter being easily distin-
guishable when several miles from the land.

The station at Avhich the ships were now lying, and which is the westernmost
point to which the navigation of the Polar Sea to the northward of the
American continent has yet been carried, is in latitude 74° 26' 25", and
longitude, by chronometers, 113° 46' 43 ".5. Cape Dundas is in latitude
74° 27' 50", longitude 113° 57' 35", by which the length of Melville Island, in
an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, appears to be about one hundred and thirty-
five miles, and its breadth, about the meridian of Winter Harbour, from forty
to fifty miles.

2 K 2

1

S52

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. At two P.M. we cast off from the shore, and ran close along the edge of
the ice to the eastward, the general distance from the land being a mile and
a half for the first four or five miles, and then gradually much closer. I
acquainted the officers with the object I had now in view, and directed a
vigilant look-out to be constantly kept for any opening in the ice that might
favour our getting to the southward. The wind died away after five P.M.,
and then became extremely variable, shifting in “ cat’s paws” from one point
to another as quickly as we could trim the sails. At nine P.M. we were
abreast the place where we had landed on the 5th, and here we perceived
that the ice closed in with the land a little to the eastward. There was no
security to be found for the ships without getting past one of the small points
at the mouth of a ravine, against which a floe was setting the smaller pieces
of ice, and had blocked up the passage before we arrived at it. After two hours’
labour in heaving with hawsers, during which the Hecla narrowly escaped a
severe “ nip” by the sudden closing of the ice, we succeeded in getting
through, and, soon after midnight, made the ships fast to some very heavy
grounded ice near the beach. We observed a number of hares feeding on the
sides of the cliffs, as we sailed along in the afternoon, and also a few
ptarmigan.

Thur. 17. The place where the Hecla was now secured, being the only one of the kind
which could be found, was a little harbour formed, as usual, by the grounded
ice, some of which was fixed to the bottom in ten to twelve fathoms. One
side of the entrance to this harbour consisted of masses of floes, very regular
in their shape, placed quite horizontally, and broken off so exactly perpen-
dicular, as to resemble a handsome well-built wharf On the opposite side,
however, the masses to which we looked for security were themselves rather
terrific objects, as they leaned over so much towards the ship, as to give the
appearance of their being in the act of falling upon her deck ; and as a very
trifling concussion often produces the fall of much heavier masses of ice,
when in appearance very firmly fixed to the ground, I gave orders that no
guns should be fired near the ship during her continuance in this situation.
The Griper was of necessity made fast near the beach, in rather an exposed
situation, and her rudder unshipped, in readiness for the ice coming in ; it
remained quiet, however, though quite close, during the day, the weather
being calm and fine. The latitude observed here was 74° 24' 50", the longi-
tude 112° 38' 55", and the variation of the magnetic needle 111° 19' 15"
easterly.

--

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

253

The weather became foggy at night; the young ice, which had, for several 1820.
evenings past, begun to form upon the surface of the sea, as the sun became
low, did not thaw during the whole of this day. Mr. Fisher was again
successful in his sporting excursion, bringing in nine hares, the greater part
of which were still beautifully white ; about a dozen young ptarmigan were
also killed in each ship. The vegetation in this neighbourhood was much the
same as in our last station ; the sorrel had now become too insipid to be at
all palatable.

On the 18th the weather was alternately clear and cloudy, with a slight air Frid. 18.
of wind from the S.W. The ice continued close to the land as far as we
could see in both directions, and without the smallest perceptible motion till
the evening, when it slackened a little along the shore. I immediately
despatched Mr. Nias to Cape Providence, which was still two miles and a half
to the eastward of us, to examine the appearance of the ice beyond it. He
reported, on his return, that it was slack at the distance of two hundred yards
from the shore, as far as the Cape, but that to the eastward there was no
appearance of clear water. As there was not the smallest security for the
ships for the next three or four miles along the shore, it was necessary still
to continue in our present place of refuge.

It was again nearly calm on the 19th, and the weather was foggy for some Sat. 19.
hours in the morning. In the evening, having walked to Cape Providence,
to see if there was any possibility of moving the ships, I found the ice so
close that a boat could not have passed beyond the Cape ; but a light air
drifting the ice slowly to the eastward at this time, gave me some hopes of
soon being enabled to make our escape from this tedious as well as vexatious
confinement. At a quarter past eight it was high-water by the shore ; about
this time the ice ceased driving to the eastward, and shortly after returned in
the opposite direction. This coincidence, if it be only such, seemed in some
degree to confinn what I had hitherto considered to be the case with respect
to the flood-tide coming from the westward upon this coast; but it may,
perhaps, have been occasioned only by the usual superficial current, as a light
air sprung up from the eastward about that time.

At half-past eleven P.M,, some heavy pieces of the grounded ice, to which
our bow-hawser was secured, fell olf into the water, snapping the rope in
two, without injuring the ship. As, however, every alteration of this kind
must materially change the centre of gravity of the whole mass, which already
appeared in a tottering state, I thought it prudent to move the Hecla out of

254.

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. her harbour to the place where the Griper was lying, considering that a ship
might easily be forced on shore by the ice without suffering any serious
damage ; but that one of those enormous masses failing upon her deck must
inevitably crush or sink her.

Sun. 20. The weather being again calm on the 20th and 21st allowed the “ young
ice” to form upon the surface to such a degree as firmly to cement together
the loose pieces which hung about the ships ; and it did not thaw during those
days, though the sun was shining clearly upon it for several hours. Although
this alone was sufficient to deter me from moving the ships, without a fresh
breeze of wind, I was anxious to know the state of the ice to the eastward,
and I, therefore, sent Mr. Nias to the Cape on the evening of the 21st, to
examine it with a glass. On his return he acquainted me that no alteration
had taken place, the whole body of the ice remaining still close in with the
shore, and perfectly compact and impenetrable to the eastward, as well as to
the south.

Tues. 22. On the 22d, the ice still remained as close as before, more so indeed as,
on the failure of a light breeze which had been blowing from the westward
for an hour or two, and had amused us with hopes of getting away, the loose
ice surrounded us completely, so that we were immoveably beset. Calm
weather is observed always to make ice open out, and occupy more space
than it had done before, as if the previous breeze had been acting on an
elastic substance, which springs back as soon as the force of the wind is re-
moved from it.

Wed. 23. The “ young ice” had increased to the thickness of an inch and a half on
the morning of the 23d, and some snow which had fallen in the night served
to cement the whole more firmly together. On a breeze springing up from
the westward, however, it soon began to acquire a motion to leeward,
and, at half an hour before noon, had slackened about the ships suf-
ficiently to allow us to warp them out, which was accordingly done, and
all sail made upon them. The wind having freshened up froin the W.N.W.j
the ships’ heads were got the right way, and by great attention to the
sails, kept so till they had got abreast of Cape Providence, after which
they were no longer manageable, the ice being more close than before. I
have before remarked that the loose ice in this neighbourhood was heavy
in proportion to the floes from which it had been broken; and the im-
possibility of sailing among such ice, most of which drew more water than
the Hecla, and could not therefore be turned by her weight, was this day

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

^55

rendered veiy apparent, the ships having received by far the heaviest shocks
which they experienced during the voyage. They continued, however, to
drive till they were about three miles to the eastward of Cape Providence,
where the low land commences ; when finding that there was not any
appearance of open water to the eastward or southward, and that we were
now incurring the risk of being beset at sea, without a chance of making any
farther progress, we hauled in for the largest piece of grounded ice we could
see upon the beach, which we reached at six P.M., having performed six miles
of the most difficult navigation I have ever known among ice. The Hecla
was made fast in from eighteen to twenty feet water close to the beach, and
the Griper in four fathoms, about half a mile to the westward of us.

The situation in which the ships were now placed, when viewed in com-
bination Avith the shortness of the remaining part of the season, and the
period to which our resources of every kind could be extended, was such as
to require a more than ordinary consideration, in order to determine upon
the measures most proper to be pursued, for the advancement of the public
service and the security of the ships and people committed to my charge.
Judging from the close of the summer of 1819, it was reasonable to consider
the 7th of September as the limit beyond which the navigation of this part of
the Polar Sea could not be performed, with tolerable safety to the ships, or
with any hope of further success. Impressed, however, with a strong sense
of the efforts which it became us to make in the prosecution of our enterprise,
I was induced to extend this limit to the 14th of September, before which
day, on the preceding year, the winter might fairly be said to have set in.
But even with this extension our prospect was not very encouraging : the
direct distance to Icy Cape was between eight and nine hundred miles,
Avhile that which we had advanced towards it this season, fell short of sixty
miles.

I have already detailed the reasons which inclined me to believe, that
there was little hope of making further progress to the westward in this
latitude, and the grounds upon which I had determined to run along the edge
of the ice to the eastward. Such, however, was the extreme difficulty with
which we were enabled to navigate the ships in this, or any other, direction,
that it had for many days been equally out of our poAver to effect this
object. Indeed, we had experienced, during the first half of the naAugable sea-
son, such a continued series of vexations, disappointments and delays, accom-
panied by such a constant state of danger to the ships, that I felt it would

1820.

August.

256

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

August.

no longer be deemed justifiable in me to persevere in a fruitless attempt to get
to the westward.

By Mr. Hooper’s report of the remains of provisions, it appeared that, at
the present reduced allowance, (namely, two-thirds of the established pro-
portion for the navy), they would last until the 30th of November, 1821 ; and
that an immediate reduction to half allowance, which must, however, tend
materially to impair the health and vigour of the officers and men, would only
extend our resources till the 30th of April, 1822; it therefore became a
matter of evident and imperious necessity, that the ships should be cleared
from the ice before the close of the season of 1821, so as to reach some
station where supplies might be obtained by the end of that, or early in the
following, year.

By the same report, it appeared that the fuel, with which we were fur-
nished, could only be made to extend to a period of two years and seven
months, or to the end of November, 1821 ; and this only by resorting to the
unhealthy measure of both crews’ living on board the Hecla, during six of the
ensuing winter months. The above calculation was made according to the
proportion of fuel hitherto consumed on board each ship, varying at dif-
ferent periods of the year, from one and a half to three bushels of coal
per day, — a quantity which, far from affording the officers and men com-
fort in so rigorous a climate, was found barely sufficient to preserve their
health.

The ships might be considered almost as effective as when the Expedition
left England ; the wear and tear having been trifling, and the quantity of
stores remaining on board being amply sufficient, in all probability, for a
much longer period than the provisions and fuel. The health of the officers
and men continued also as good, or nearly so, as at the commencement of the
voyage. Considering, however, the serious loss we had sustained in the
lemon-juice, the only effectual anti-scorbutic on which we could depend,
during at least nine months of the year in these regions, as well as the effects
likely to result from crowding nearly one hundred persons into the accom-
modation intended only for fifty-eight, whereby the difficulty of keeping the
inhabited parts of the ship in a dry and wholesome state would have been
so much increased, there certainly seemed some reason to apprehend, that a
second winter would not leave us in possession of the same excellent health
which we now happily enjoyed, while it is possible that the difficulty and
danger of either proceeding or returning might have been increased.

J'lii/i.t/icil hv John ifuiTciv, JonJon. i/ai-ch O'.iSzi.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

257

These considerations, together with some others of minor importance, in- 1820.
duced me, at this time, to call for. the opinions of the principal officers of the
Expedition, being desirous of profiting by their united judgment and expe-
rience, previous to forming my ultimate decision as to the measures most
proper to be pursued. I, therefore, addressed a letter to Lieutenants Liddon,
Beechey, and Hoppner, Captain Sabine, and Messrs. Edwards and Hooper,
respectively, directing their attention to the different points connected with
our situation which I have just detailed, and requesting their advice upon the
subject within thirty-six hours after the receipt of my letter.

Early in the morning of the 24th, the wind shifted to north, and soon after Thur. 24.
increased to a fresh breeze, which made the ice stream off the land, but so slowly,
that it was not till ten A.M., that we had a channel wide enough to move the
ships to a point a mile and a half to the eastward, which we reached by short
tacks at noon ; and, beyond which, as well as to the south and west, nothing but
ice could be seen. So quickly, indeed, was the narrow channel closed, in which
we had been sailing, that when we made fast to the ice at the point, it would
have been impossible to have returned even to the spot we had just before left.

A herd of musk-oxen being seen at a little distance from the ships, a party
was despatched in pursuit • and Messrs. Fisher and Bushnan were fortunate
in killing a fine bull, which separated from the rest of the herd, being too
unwieldy to make such good way as the others. He was, however, by no
means caught by our people in fair chase, for though these animals run with
a hobbling sort of canter that makes them appear as if every now and
then about to fall, yet the slowest of them can far outstrip a man. In
this herd were two calves, much whiter than the rest, the older ones having
only the white saddle. In the evening, Serjeant Martin succeeded in killing
another bull ; these two animals afforded a very welcome supply of fresh meat,
the first giving us three hundred and sixty-nine, and the other three hundred
and fifty-two pounds of beef, which was served in the same manner as before.*

* The total quantity of game obtained for the use of the Expedition, during our stay upon
the shores of Melville Island, being a period of nearly twelve months, was as follows :

3 Musk-oxen r
24 Deer - - -

68 Hares - - -
53 Geese - - -

69 Ducks -
144 Ptarmigans -

> Affording 3,766 pounds of meat.

258

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. The wind died away soon after we reached the point, affording no hope of
making, for the present, any further progress by the drifting of the ice from the
land; we, therefore, hauled the ships into the best births we could find, in
doing which the Hecla’s fore-foot rested on the ground for a short time,
but she was afterwards secured in four fathoms. It was low water by the
shore at eight P.M.

Frid. 25. The ice closed in upon us in the course of the night, leaving not a single
pool of open water in sight in any direction. It was high-water at half-past
two A.M., and low-water at three-quarters past eight, so that the tides appeared
to continue very regular on this part of the coast. The Griper, being very near
the beach, grounded as the tide fell, so that the water left her between two
and three feet ; Lieutenant Liddon, therefore, warped out nearer to the Hecla
in the afternoon, for fear of not getting off when it might be necessary.

Immediately under the hills, which here, for the first time, in sailing from
Cape Providence to the eastward, recede about two miles from the sea, was
the most luxuriant pasture-ground we had yet met with on Melville Island.
It consisted of about a dozen acres of short thick grass, intennixed with moss,
which gave it almost the same lively appearance as that of an English mea-
dow. It was covered with the dung and foot-tracks of musk-oxen, of which
twelve or fourteen skulls were picked up near it ; and it was here that the
herd before-mentioned was feeding. When walking over this spot, on which
there were many small ponds of water, our surprise in some degree ceased
at the immense distance which these animals must travel in the course of
their annual visits to these dreary and desolate regions ; as such a pasture
affording undisturbed and luxuriant feeding during the summer months, may,
in spite of the general dreary appearance of the island, hold out sufficient
inducement for their annual emigration.

A thermometer in the sun about two P.M. stood at 52° for a short time, the
weather being quite calm and fine. Mr, Fisher tried an experiment on the
specific gravity of a piece of floe-ice found lying on the top of one of the
grounded masses near the beach. Being formed into a cube, whose sides
measured two feet, and put into the sea, at the temperature of 33°, with that
side up which was lying uppermost when first found, three inches and a half
of it remained above the surface ; but when the opposite side was turned up,
only three inches appeared above water. The latitude observed at this station
was 74° 27' 19", the longitude 112° 11' 32", and the variation of the magnetic
needle 114° 34' 45" Easterly.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

259

We here obtained our last supply of sorrel, the leaves of which had now 1820.
become so shrivelled, as well as insipid, as to be no longer worth gathering,

We saw no birds here but one or two flocks of king-ducks, a speckled owl,
which was killed, and now and then a solitary glaucous gull.

An air of wind having sprung up from the westward in the evening, the ice
had slackened about us a little by eight P.M,, which induced me to cast off
soon after, though with little prospect of making any progress. After two
hours, during which the breeze deserted us, we had gained abput three-
quarters of a mile to the eastward, and then made fast to the land-ice to wait
for an opening, which might enable us to proceed.

The wind remained light and variable till five A.M. on the 26th, when a Sat. 26.
westerly breeze began to open the ice a little ; at seven we cast off, and made
all sail to the eastward, through loose but heavy pieces of ice, between which
there seemed sufficient room for the ships to sail. We soon found, however, that
the young ice, which at a distance appeared like open water, had so completely
occupied the space between the heavier masses, that when the ship had
entered it, it was impossible to keep way upon her, or to get her head in the
right direction. Such, indeed, was the difficulty of doing this, that we were
incessantly labouring from eight till half-past eleven, without gaining a single
yard, except what the ship drifted with the ice. Having at length, however,
got out of the scrape into which the young ice had unavoidably brought us,
and the breeze freshening up strong from the westward, all sail was made
along the land, generally within half a mile of the beach, where a channel
of clear water had now opened. In the course of the morning, the Hecla
received some very severe shocks, one of which we were apprehensive had
damaged the rudder, the ship having run with fresh sternway against a heavy
piece of ice, but fortunately no material injury was sustained.

Soon after noon, the weather became thick, with heavy snow, so that we
were obliged to run entirely by the lead, on which we had every reason con-
fidently to rely, as a safe and sure guide. We kept close along the edge of
the ice, which was quite compact to the southward of us, without the
smallest appearance of an opening to encourage a hope of penetrating in
that direction.

Having now received the answers of the officers to my letter addressed to
them on the 23d, and given the matter my most serious and mature considera-
tion, it was necessary that I should make up my mind as to the future con-
duct of the Expedition. It was gratifying to me to find that the officers

260

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820,

August.

unanimously agreed with me in opinion that any further attempt to penetrate
to the westward in our present parallel would be altogether fruitless, and
attended with a considerable loss of time, which might be more usefully
employed. They also agreed with me in thinking, that the plan which I had
adopted, of running back along the edge of the ice to the eastward, in order
to look out for an opening that might lead us towards the American continent,
was, in every respect, the most advisable ; and that, in the event of failing
to find any such opening, after a reasonable time spent in the search, it would
be expedient to return to England rather than to risk the passing another
winter in these seas, without the prospect of attaining any adequate object;
namely, that of being able to start from an advanced station at the com-
mencement of the following season.

Under all the circumstances of the case, therefore, I could not but admit
the propriety of immediately returning to England, should our attempt to pe-
netrate to the southward prove unsuccessful in any part of the navigation
between the position we now occupied and Barrow’s Strait ; as it would, in
that case, be impossible to make so much progress either to the southward or
the westward during the short remainder of the present season, as to bring
the accomplishment of the passage through Behring’s Strait within the scope
of our remaining resources.

At three P.M. we were abreast of Cape Hearne ; and, as we opened the
bay of the Hecla and Griper, the wind, as usual on this part of the coast,*
came directly out from the northward; but as soon as we had stretched over
to Bounty Cape, of which we were abreast at eight P.M., it drew once more
along the land from the westward. We found a large quantity of loose and
broken ice off Cape Hearne, and not far from the same place we came to a
floe of young ice, of nearly a mile in length, and about two inches and a half
in thickness, which had undoubtedly been formed this summer, probably in
some of the bays and inlets in the neighbourhood of Bounty Cape. The
distance between the ice and the land increased as we proceeded, and at
midnight the channel appeared to be four or five miles wide, as far as the
darkness of the night would allow of our judging; for we could at this period
scarcely see to read in the cabin at ten o’clock. The snow which fell during
the day was observed, for the first time, to renipn upon the land without dis-
solving ; thus affording a proof of the temperature of the earth’s surface having
again fallen below that of freezing ; and giving notice of the near approach
of another long and dreary winter. One or two fulmar petrels, some tern,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

261

and numerous flocks of snow-buntings, were seen about the ships in the
course of the day.

The navigable channel increased so much in breadth, as we ran to the east- Sun. 27.
ward with a fresh and favourable breeze, that at eight A.M,, on the morning
of the 27th, when we had advanced beyond the east end of Melville Island,
it was not less than ten miles wide. We kept near the ice, running at such a
distance from it as not to get the ships embayed between the points, which
often occasions a long and useless delay in afterwards beating round them
with a scant wind. A constant look-out was kept from the crow’s-nest for an
opening to the southward, but not a single break could be perceived in the
mass of ice which still covered the sea in that direction. We were at noon
in latitude 75° 02' 15", and longitude 105° 14' 20", the soundings being ninety-
four fathoms, on a muddy bottom. Some water brought up from that depth
in Dr. Marcet’s bottle was at the temperature of 31°£, that at the surface being
30°, and of the air 31°.

At seven P.M., a fog coming on, we hauled up close to the edge of the ice,
both as a guide to us in sailing during the continuance of the thick weather,
and to avoid passing any opening that might occur in it to the southward. We
were, in the course of the evening, within four or five miles of the same spot
where we had been on the same day, and at the same hour the preceding year;
and by a coincidence perhaps still more remarkable, we were here once more
reduced to the same necessity as before, of steering the ships by one another for
an hour or two ; the Griper keeping the Hecla ahead, and our quarter-master
being directed to keep the Griper right astern, for want of some better mode
of knowing in what direction we were running. The fog froze hard as it fell
upon the rigging, making it difficult to handle the ropes in working the ship,
and the night was rather dark for three or four hours.

A fresh breeze continued from the S.W.b.W., with some swell, to which Mon. 28.
we had long been unaccustomed, and which, together with the extreme
thickness of the weather, and the uncertainty of our course, made great
caution necessary in running along the ice. We had for some time been
steering principally by the moon, but when she became obscured, we were
under the necessity of hauling our wind to the northward and westward,
which led us from the ice, till the weather should become more favourable.

The fog began to clear away at half-past five A.M. on the 28th, and imme-
diately after we saw land from N.E.b.E, to N.N.W. The ships’ heads were
now put to the S.S.E., in order to take up the ice where we had last seen it.

262

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. but at six o’clock, in approaching some heavy detached masses, which ap-
peared to be aground, and therefore made us very cautious with the hand-
leads, we shoaled the water rather more suddenly than usual from thirty-five
to ten, and then to seven, fathoms, and tacked in five and three quarters
at the distance of half a mile to the westward of the grounded ice. There is
certainly no land within two or three leagues of this shoal, on which, how-
ever, I have little doubt, from the appearance of the ice aground upon it,
there is water enough for any ship, and which will probably be at all times
clearly pointed out by the never-failing beacons of these seas. It is cus-
tomary to judge by the tide-mark upon the ice whether it be aground or not,
and by its dimensions whether it may be boldly approached.

Having hauled to the N.N.E., and then gradually more to the eastward, we
deepened our water till no soundings could be obtained with forty fathoms
of line, and then steered again to the S.E., in order to make the main ice.
The impossibility of keeping any thing like an accurate reckoning during the
last night’s run, and the difficulty of recognising the land in consequence of
the snow which now almost entirely covered it, left us for some time at a loss
to ascertain our position, till we found ourselves at noon off Cape Cockburn,
our latitude by observation being 74° 58' 28". We were now enabled to de-
termine the continuity of the land from that point to Graham Moore’s Bay,
which, on its first discovery, we could not exactly ascertain on account of the
distance at which we sailed from it.

The ice to the southward, along which we continued to sail this day, was
composed of floes remarkable for their extraordinary length and continuity,
some of them not having a single break or crack for miles together, though
their height above the sea was not generally more than twelve inches, and
their surface as smooth and even as a bowling-green, forming, in both these
respects, a striking contrast to the ice to which we had lately been accustomed
more westerly. The outer edge of these floes, however, for about one
hundred yards, was broken by the sea into innumerable small pieces, remaining
so close that a boat would not penetrate them; a circumstance which I
notice because it prevented my putting into execution a plan I had pro-
posed of making some observations on the variation of the magnetic
needle in this neighbourhood, there being every reason to suppose that
>Ve should have found it to be 180°, or the south point of the needle
turned directly to the North Pole of the earth, about the meridian of 100°
West of Greenwich. The wind being to the southward of west, which

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

963

made this shore a lee one, did not allow me to land on Bathurst Island for 1820.

August.

this purpose.

The weather was again so thick with snow in the afternoon, that we were
once more obliged to sail round all the bays in the ice, instead of running
from point to point, in order to leave no part of it unexamined ; and, on its
clearing up in the evening, we found that the ice was leading us to the
northward of Garrett Island, the passage to the southward of it, through
which we had sailed to the westward the preceding year, being now com-
pletely blocked up by floes, which did not appear to have been detached
from the island during this season. We had here occasion to notice, in a
very striking degree, the deception occasioned by snow lying upon the land,
in judging of its distance ; this, indeed, is much more remarkable in these seas
than in any other, when any part of the intermediate space is occupied by floes
of ice, the whiteness of which mingles so imperceptibly with that of the snow
upon the land, that it is impossible, from the total absence of any shadow,
to tell where one ends and the other commences. Such, indeed, was the
illusion this evening, with respect to Garrett Island, which was completely
covered with snow, that, although we were sailing at the distance of only
four or five miles from it, we should scarcely have been aware that any
land was in that direction, had we not previously surveyed these islands, and
been running with the chart before us.

In passing between Garrett and Bathurst Islands, at the distance of five
miles from the former, we could find no bottom with thirty-five to fifty
fathoms of line ; and when its centre bore S.b.W. 5 W. at the same distance,
another island was discovered to the northward, which had not before been
seen, and which I named after my friend and foraier commander. Captain
Thomas Baker, of the Royal Navy. The eastern part of Bathurst Island was
now observed to extend farther to the N.N.E. than we had before been
enabled to see it, terminating by a point of land,, called Cape Capel, out of
respect to the Honourable Captain Thomas Bladen Capel, of the Royal
Navy.

We continued to run along the edge of the ice to the eastward, till half-
past ten P.M., when more land being discovered a-head, of the extent and
position of which we had no previous knowledge, and, the night growing
dark, the ships were hove-to with their heads to the northward and westward,
in which direction there was a space of clear water several miles in extent,
being in ninety fathoms, on a bottom of soft mud.

264<

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Having again got sight of the land at hal^-past two A.M., on the 29th

1 lies. 29. Lowther Island, but left us a free passage to the eastward. The land, dis-
covered the preceding evening, proved to be an island, about a mile and a
half in length ; and being rather high, and remarkably bluff in every view,
appeared to have deep water all round it. We were abreast of it at half-
past five, and I named it Browne Island, out of respect to my much-
esteemed friend, Mr. Henry Browne, of Portland-Place. The ice then led
us in a S.E. |E. direction, towards another island, distant from the first three
miles and a half, bearing S.S.E. It was named after my friend Dr. Somerville ;
and is low at both ends like Garrett Island. When we first bore up in the
morning, we had indistinctly seen land from N.N.E. to E.N.E., at the dis-
tance of four or five leagues. As we advanced, and the day became more
clear, we found it to extend much farther to the eastward, and afterwards
ascertained that it fonned a part of Cornwallis Island, not before seen. At
six o’clock we made Griffith Island, between which and the ice we found the
navigable channel narrowed in one part to a mile, at which distance from
the shore, we could obtain no soundings with forty to fifty fathoms of line.
The whole of the shore of Griffith Island seemed to be bold, the land being
steep and bluff, especially towards its south-east end, where the strata,
which appeared to be of sandstone, were observed to dip at a considerable
angle to the S.E,

At half an hour before noon, the weather being alternately thick and clear,
from occasional showers of snow, a deeper bight than usual was perceived in
the ice, which had hitherto been nearly as compact as if it were composed of
a single floe. As I had always entertained an idea, that there was no part
of this sea, in which we were more likely to get to the southward, than im-
mediately to the westward, of Cape Bunny, I was desirous of thoroughly
examining the state of the . ice in this neighbourhood, and bore up to the
southward, under all sail for that purpose. After running two or three
miles, however, we were again stopped at twenty minutes past noon ; and
the weather having now cleared up, we perceived that the ice was as compact
as before, except that there was one hole” of water about a third of a
mile wide just within its margin, but beyond this it was quite close and
impenetrable. We were, therefore, under the necessity of again hauling to
the eastward, along the edge of the floes, which lay in a direction nearly
parallel to the southern shore, and at the distance of seven or eight miles

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

265

from it, being much nearer than we had been able to approach it, only six 1820.
days earlier the preceding season. It is remarkable that we here found a
strong rippling on the surface of the water, in the same place where we had
before noticed it; and, as we could discover nothing like shoal- water, or un-
evenness in the bottom, we concluded it must have been occasioned by some
particular set, or meeting of the tides in this place. The space between us
and Cornwallis Island was entirely free from ice, and Wellington
Channel presented the same broad navigable passage, as on the former
occasion.

The continuity or otherwise, of a large portion of the land now to the south-
ward of us having before remained undetermined, on account of the hazy
weather we had experienced on our passage to the westward, I was glad to
have an opportunity of filling up the deficiencies which had unavoidably been
left in the chart, upon this part of the coast. Immediately to the eastward of
Cunningham Inlet is a bold headland, which formed the extreme of the
land visible in this direction, in 1819, 4nd which now being clearly dis-
tinguished, I named after Major Rennell, a gentleman well known as the
ablest geographer of the age. At the back of Cape Rennell, the land
recedes considerably, forming a large bay, which I called Garnier Bay,
and which, as we did not distinctly see the bottom of it in one part,
may not improbably be found to communicate with Cunningham Inlet, making
the intermediate land, on which Cape Rennell stands, an island. Before night
came on, we had traced the land to the eastward nearly as far as Cape
Clarence ; but being desirous of leaving no part of this coast unexamined, by
running past it in the . night, I hove-to at half-past ten, with the ships’ heads
to the northward, and found no soundings with a hundred and thirty fathoms
of line. The whole of the land we passed this day was much covered with
snow, and, perhaps, permanently so, as the mean temperature of the at-
mosphere had, for some time past, fallen rather below the freezing
point. If this conclusion be just, it would appear that the present season
was about, to close-in somewhat earlier than it had done the preceding
year. A flock of brent-geese, some fulmar petrels, a dovekey, and one or
two ivory gulls, were all the birds seen in the course of this day’s run.

To the land along which we had now been sailing, I gave the name of
North Somerset, in honour of my native county; and the northern shore of
Barrow’s Strait was called North Devon, after that of Lieutenant Liddon.

At a quarter past three on the morning of the 30th, we bore up to the Wed. 30.

2M

266

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. eastward, the wind continuing fresh directly down Barrow’s [Strait, except
just after passing Prince Leopold’s Islands, where it drew into Prince Regent’s
Inlet, and as soon as we had passed this, again assumed its former westerly
direction ; affording a remarkable instance of the manner in which the wind
is acted upon by the particular position of the land, even at a considerable
distance from it. The islands were incumbered with ice to the distance of
four or five miles all round them, hut the Strait was generally as clear and
navigable as any part of the Atlantic.

Having now traced the ice the whole way from the longitude of 114° to
that of 90° without discovering any opening to encourage a hope of pene-
trating it to the southward, I could not entertain the slightest doubt, that
there no longer remained a possibility of effecting our object with the
present resources of the Expedition; and that it was, therefore, my duty to
return to England with the account of our late proceedings, that no time
might be lost in following up the success with which we had been favoured,
should His Majesty’s Government consider it expedient to do so. Having
informed the officers and men in both ships of my intentions, I directed the
full allowance of provisions to be, in future, issued, with such a proportion
of fuel as might contribute to their comfort ; a luxury which, on account of
the necessity that existed for the strictest economy in this article, it must be
confessed, we had not often enjoyed since we entered Sir James Lancaster’s
Sound. We had been on two-thirds allowance of bread between ten and
eleven months, and on the same reduced proportion of the other species of
provisions, between three and four ; and, although this quantity is scarcely
enough for working men for any length of time, I believe the reduction
of fuel was generally considered by far the greater privation of the two.

We ran along the south shore, at the distance of four or five leagues, with
a fresh westerly wind, and fine clear weather ; a bay on that coast, a little
to the westward of Cape York, was named after my friend. The Honourable
Mr. Eardley. We noticed a striking similarity in the geological character
of this part of the coast, as far as we could judge at a distance, to that on
the opposite shore of Barrow’s Strait, both being remarkable for that but-
tress-like structure, which has before been observed to resemble the works
of art, and which gives this land a magnificent and imposing appearance*
such as it is impossible to describe. The shores were covered with ice to
the distance of four or five miles, and the first solitary iceberg was seen in
the course of the afternoon ; but the Strait was, in other respects, perfectly

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

267

free from obstruction. At eleven P.M., we were abreast of a bluff and 1820.
remarkable headland, which I named after my much-esteemed friend,

Mr. William Petrie Craufurd, and to the eastward of which the land appeared
to recede, forming a large bay. I continued to run during the night, how-
ever, being desirous of taking advantage of the westerly breeze which was
still blowing, to run out of Sir James Lancaster’s Sound.

It was not light enough till half-past three on the morning of the 31st, to Thur. 31
enable us to perceive that the land immediately to the eastward of Cape
Craufurd was not continuous, there being a space subtending an angle of
21° 42' in the middle of the supposed bay, where none was visible, though
the weather was perfectly clear. As the wind drew almost directly out of
this opening, to which I gave the name of Admiralty Inlet, and, as it was
entirely occupied by ice, I did not think its further examination of sufficient
importance to detain the Expedition, and therefore continued our course to
the eastward. The headland, which forms the eastern point of the entrance,

I named after The Right Honourable Charles Yorke, late First Lord of the
Admiralty; and to another within the inlet, I gave the name of Cape
Franklin, after my friend. Captain John Franklin, of the Royal Navy,
now employed in investigating the northern shore of North America. On
an inspection of the chart, it will appear more than probable, that
the Admiralty Inlet may one day be found to communicate to the south-
ward with Prince Regent’s Inlet, making the land between them an island.

At half-past eight A.M., we were abreast of the Navy-Board Inlet, round
the bottom of which the continuity of the land was still by no means
clear to us ; in fact, it receded so far to the southward, as rather to
strengthen the opinion we had before foimed of the existence of a pas-
sage in that direction; the quantity of ice which occupied this inlet,
however, prevented our ascertaining this satisfactorily. Immediately off
Cape Castlereagh, we discovered two low islands, which had not been
seen on the preceding voyage, and which I named after Dr. William
Wollaston, a gentleman well known in the scientific world, and one of the
Commissioners of Longitude. To the eastward of the Cape, there is
some comparatively low land next the sea, from which abruptly rise
the lofty Byam Martin Mountains, whose summits are covered with per-
petual snow. One of the highest of these, immediately at the back' of
Catherine’s Bay, of which we were abreast at noon, was found trigonometri-
cally to be three thousand three hundred and eighty-two feet above the level

2M 2

268

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. of the sea. It may be remarked that the castellated appearance of the land
is very much less on the eastern than on the western side of Admiralty
Inlet. Towards the west side of Navy-Board Inlet, the land next the sea be-
comes comparatively low, but rises at the back into high hills, which are round
at the top ; in this respect forming a striking contrast with the Martin Moun-
tains, the latter being peaked, though not so sharply as those of Spitzbergen.

Our horizon being obstructed at noon by the closeness of the land, I was
desirous of going on shore to observe the meridian altitude ; but, on hauling
the ships to the wind with that intention, I found the beach so lined with ice
for about half a mile out, that it was no where practicable to land, and the
ice itself was too unsteady for the artificial horizons ; we, therefore, con-
tinued to run to the eastward. A large bear was seen swimming, and our
boats despatched in pursuit of him ; but before the ship could be rounded
to, we had run too far to keep sight of him, and the boats returned without
success. We here passed several large icebergs, and a few narrow streams
of ice, of the same thickness as that which usually occurs in Baffin’s Bay,
and which appeared very light to us, in comparison with that to which we
had lately been accustomed. Being off Cape Liverpool, which headland is
formed by a projecting point of the same comparatively low land that I have
mentioned above, the water became of a very light-green colour, and was filled
with innumerable shoals of the Argonauta Arctica ; we found no bottom with
eighty fathoms of line, at the distance of two or three miles from the shore.
In the course of this day’s run we saw two threshers, one black whale, a
seal, some dovekeys, ivory-gulls, phalaropes, and fulmar-petrels. Considering
the extraordinary number of whales we had met with in our passage up Sir
James Lancaster’s Sound in 1819, it could not but be a matter of surprise to
us that we had now seen so few ; but this circumstance was afterwards satis-
factorily accounted for in a manner we least expected. In the evening, being
off Cape Fanshawe, we observed a long low iceberg, between that headland
and Possession Bay, not less than three-quarters of a mile in length, and
quite flat and even at the top ; this kind of iceberg appears to be almost
entirely confined to the western coast of Baffin’s Bay and Davis’ Strait, as we
never met with them in any other part ; they are probably formed upon the
low strips of land which occur between the foot of the hills and the sea in
many parts of this coast.

As it appeared to me that considerable service might be rendered by a
general survey of the western coast of Baffin’s Bay, which, from Sir James

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

269

Lancaster’s Sound southwards, might one day become an important station i820.
for our whalers, I determined to keep as close to that shore, during our pas-
sage down, as the ice and the wind would permit ; and as the experience of
the former voyage had led us to suppose that this coast would be almost clear
of ice during the whole of September, I thought that this month could not
be better employed than in the examination of its numerous bays and inlets.

Such an examination appeared to me the more desirable, from the hope of
finding some new outlet into the Polar Sea in a lower latitude than that of
Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, a discovery which would be of infinite impor-
tance towards the accomplishment of the North-West Passage.

. Previously to commencing this survey, it was my wish to have landed at
Possession Bay, of which the longitude had been accurately determined on two
former occasions, in order to compare our chronometers with the time found
there, as an intermediate station between Winter Harbour and England ; but,
as this would have detained us a whole night, with a fair wind, and with the
chance of the following day being after all unfavourable for observations, I
gave up my intention, and made all sail along shore to the southward.

This was, however, the less to be regretted, as the few observations obtained
during our quick return from Melville Island, had confirmed the accuracy of
the rates assigned to the chronometers on leaving Winter Harbour,

Annexed is an abstract of the Meteorological Observations made on board
the ships during the twelve calendar months that the Expedition remained
between the parallels of 74° and 75° north latitude.

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla, for Twelve
Calendar Months ; during which period, she was between the parallels of 74° and 75° North Latitude.

Mouths.

Temperature of Air in Shade*

Barometer*

REMARKS.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Range.

Mean.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

1819. September .
October . . .
November .
December .

1820. January . .
February - .
March . . .
April . . . .

May

June' . . . .
July : . . . .
August . . .

o

+ 37
+ 17.5
+ 6
+ 6
- 2
-17
+ 0
+ 32
i-47
+ 51
+ 60
+45

0

- 1
-28
-47
-43
-47
-50
-40
-32
- 4
+ 28
+ 32
+ 22

38

45.5

53

49

45

33

46

64

51

23

28

23

+ 22°.54

- 3.46
-20.00
-21.79
-30.0!)
-32.19
-18.10

— 8.37
+ 16.60
+ 36.2 1
+ 42.41
+ 32.68

inches.

30.42

30.32

30.32

30.755

30.77

30.15

30.26

30.86

30.48

30.13

30.01

30.03

inches.

29.36

29.10

29.63

29.10

29.59

29.32

29.00

29.40

29.25

29.50

29.13

29.46

inches.

29.905

29.81

29.945

29.865

30.078

29,769

29.803

29.978

30.109

29.823

29.668

29.734

The thermometer when placed on shore,
or on the ice at a distance from the ship, in-
variably stood from 3° to 4° or 5o, and even,
on some occasions, 7 “lower than that regis-
tered on board : the mean temperature for
the year may therefore be fairly consi-
dered as - 2°. The lowest temperature,
registered on the ice, was — 55° ; it did not
rise above — 54°, for seventeen hours, on the
14th and 15th of February, 1820.

+ 60

— 50

110

+ 1.33

30.86

29.00

29.874

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla,

at Sea, during the Month of August, 1820.

(

Day

Temperature of Air
in shade.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Maxi.

mum.

Mini.

mum.

Mean.

1

+

o

42

-f-

o

4-32

+

o

36.21

inches.

29,83

inches.

29.69

inches.

29.767

W.N.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather.

2

38

32

34.17

29.84

29.70

29.793

s.s.w.

Light breezes and cloudy, snow at times.

3

39

33

35.92

29.70

29.57

29.647

Round the compass.

Light breezes, thick hazy weather.

4

38.5

33

35.62

29.69

29.65

29.673

N.W.b.W.

Fresh breezes and fine.

5

41

30.5

34.08

29.79

29.69

29.737

W.b.N.

Light airs and cloudy.

6

36

33

33.96

29.76

29.59

29.672

E.S.E.

Fresh breezes and hazy, sleet and snow.

7

38

31

34.92

29.62

29.56

29.595

Round the compass.

Fresh breezes and fine, occasional squalls.

8

39

33

36.46

29.64

29.60

29.618

Ditto.

Light variable airs, cloudy with rain.

9

40

31

34.79

29.60

29.46

29.513

West.

Light variable airs — hazy.

10

34

30

31.96

29.60

29.54

,29.575

W.b.N.

Moderate and hazy, small snow.

11

33

30

31.29

29.64

29.53

1

i29.592

E.S.E.

Light breezes and foggy, snow at times.

12

38

30.5

34.29

29.70

29.48

29.542

•E.N.E.

Strong breezes and squally weather.

13

45

31

36.92

29.87

29.76

29.828

Round the compass.

Light breezes and cloudy.

14

• 38

27

33.22

29.81

29.71

29.762

West.

Light airs and hazy.

15

37

29

32.33

29.85

29.76

29.805

W.N.W.

Moderate and hazy, with snow.

16

34

29

32.42

30.01

29.83

29.948

W.N.W.

Moderate and fine.

17

36

28

31.83

.30.03

29.96

30.007

W.S.W.

Light airs, and fine clear weather.

18

36

30

33.08

29.90

29.79

29.843

Calm.

Cloudy.

19

40

28

33.96

29.87

29.79

29.820

West.

Light breezes and cloudy.

20

36

27

31.67

29.91

29.85

29.888

West.

Light breezes, foggy, and cloudy.

21

37

26

30.92

29.84

29.69

29.757

5 A.M. Calm. ?

1 P.M. East. 5

Light breezes and foggy, with snow.

22

37.5

29

31.79

29.69

29.64

29.667

West.

Light airs and hazy, snow.

23

35

30

31.58

29.79

29.71

29.745

West.

Moderate and cloudy.

24

34

30

31.79

29.83

29.71

29.793

North.

Light airs and cloudy.

25

38

27

32.29

29.85

29.83

29.842

Round the compass.

Ditto ditto.

26

34

25.5

28.92

29.81

29.63

29.737

N.N.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy.

27

31

22.5

27.83

29.92

29.72

29.848

5 A.M. North. >

1 P.M. West. 5

light breezes and cloudy.

28

31

22

28.12

29.66

29.72

29.783

W.S.W.

Fresh breezes and hazy.

29

30

28

29.00

29.66

29.61

29.645

N.W.b.W.

Moderate and hazy.

30

33

28

30.00

30.00

29.62

29.638

N.W.

Moderate and cloudy weather.

31

34

29

31.75

29.75

29.63

29.678

W.S.W.

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather.

+ 45 1

+ 22

+ 32.68

30.03

29.46’

29.734

/ -Vt ’UJti

C.IValtjt* 1- Batliui^t

Ihu/

C, Graliain Alooi-e

XbUuuL

j»i 910

j’mall blai k\fC»nes

■JO ‘mud

oi'cdn. vtiid.

■1 small hit'i daip

lookirtff inleC'

West Conffitudi |||ui|_

7-''>r ■ '

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

271

CHAPTER XI.

PROGRESS DOWN THE WESTERN COAST OF BAFFIn’s BAY MEET WITH THE

WHALERS — ACCOUNT OF SOME ESQUIMAUX IN THE INLET CALLED THE
RIVER CLYDE — CONTINUE THE SURVEY OF THE COAST, TILL STOPPED BY

ICE IN THE LATITUDE OF 68$° OBLIGED TO RUN TO THE EASTWARD

FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO REGAIN THE LAND, AND FINAL DEPARTURE

FROM THE ICE REMARKS UPON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE AND PRACTI-

CABILITY OP A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, AND UPON THE WHALE-FISHERY

BOISTEROUS WEATHER IN CROSSING THE ATLANTIC — LOSS OF THE

HECLa’s BOWSPRIT AND FOREMAST ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND.

The wind continuing fresh from the northward, on the morning of the 1st
of September, we bore up and ran along the land, taking our departure from
the flag-staff in Possession Bay, bearing W. S. W. five miles, at half-past four A.M.
Having passed two small bays in the course of the morning, we were abreast
of Cape Graham Moore towards noon, where the ice led us off to the distance
of six or seven miles from the land. Some water brought up in Dr. Marcet’s
bottle from the depth of one hundred and ten fathoms was at the temperature
of that of the surface being 30|°, and of the air 31®. The specific gravity

of the surface-water at noon was 1.0246, at the temperature of 49®.

When abreast of the inlet, which had been called Pond’s Bay on the
former expedition, the opening of the two shores, as far as the eye could
reach, appeared so large as to excite considerable interest. We, therefore,
hauled in with the intention of examining it, but found the ice so close, that
the ship was stopped almost in the entrance. The weather, however, was
at this time remarkably clear, and it was the opinion of the officers, as well
as my own, that the two shores did not unite, there being nearly a whole
point of the compass in which no land was visible ; and it was the general
belief that this opening would be found to communicate with the Navy-Board
or Admiralty Inlet.

1820.

Sept.

272

VOYAGE FOE THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sept.

Sat. 2.

Sund. 3.

The ice led us oflp very much to the eastward after leaving Pond’s Bay ; and
the weather became calm, with small snow, towards midnight. In this day’s
run, the compass-courses were occasionally inserted in the log-book, being
the first time that the magnetic needle had been made use of on board the
Hecla, for the purposes of navigation, for more than twelvemonths. A few
rotges ( Aka Alh J were seen, being the first this season.

There being some swell upon the ice, which extended generally to the
distance of three or four leagues from the land, we were under the necessity
of heaving- to for a few hours at night, a precaution which was always hence-
forward adopted in running down this coast. At nine A.M., we were abreast
an inlet having every appearance of a well-sheltered harbour, with an island
near the middle of its entrance. Soon after passing this inlet, we came to a
number of icebergs aground in forty-five fathoms, on a sandy bottom, after-
wards deepening to seventy-eight fathoms ; a tide-mark of four or five feet
was observed upon each of the icebergs. Some water brought up in Dr.
Marcet’s bottle from the depth of seventy-five fathoms, was at the tempe-
rature of 32°|, that of the surface being 32°, and of the air 33°. We again
commenced throwing bottles overboard, containing papers with the usual
information, which practice was continued daily till the Expedition reached
England. We saw no ice to the eastward of us in the course of this day’s
run, nor any blink in that direction.

On the morning of the 3d, we passed some of the highest icebergs I have
ever seen, one of them being not less than one hundred and fifty to two hun-
dred feet above the sea, judging from the height of the Griper’s masts, when near
it. At half-past seven A.M., being off a point of land, which is comparatively
low near the sea, with hills rising at the back to the height of more than a
thousand feet above the sea, we observed to the southward a remarkable dark
perpendicular cliff, forming the most singular and conspicuous object we had
seen upon this coast. This cliff, which, in coming from the northward has the
appearance of being detached, and is not unlike the Bass Rock in the Frith
of Forth, is situated, as we afterwards discovered, upon an island, lying in
the entrance of one of the numerous inlets, or fiords, with which this coast is
indented. The wind becoming light and variable in the forenoon, I took
the opportunity of landing near this inlet, accompanied by Captain Sabine,
and some of the other officers. The latitude observed on board at noon
was 71° 24' 20", being only two miles and three quarters to the southward
of the dead reckoning in three days, by which we considered that there

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

273

could be no current of any importance setting in that direction on this part
of the coast. The soundings were eighty-eight fathoms on a muddy bottom ;
the temperature of the sea at that depth was 33°, at the surface 35°|, that of
the atmosphere being 38°,

We landed on a bold sandy beach, two or three miles to the northward of
a low point, at the entrance of the inlet, towards which we walked, and
ascended a hill at the back of the point, in order to obtain a view of this
large opening. We now found that the perpendicular cliff formed the
north-eastern point of a remarkably steep and precipitous island, on each
side of which there is a wide and • bold entrance. Above the island,
the inlet branches off in at least two different directions, which our situation
would not allow us to trace to any great distance, but we saw no termina-
tion to either of them.

The mineral productions . were found to consist principally of granite and
gneiss ; but there was also abundance of limestone and quartz, the latter beau-
tifully white, which, together with the other specimens obtained here, will
be described in the proper place in the Appendix. The vegetation was
tolerably luxuriant in some places upon the low land which borders the sea,
consisting principally of the dwarf-willow, sorrel, saxifrage, (Saxifraga Cernud),
and poppy, with a few roots of scurvy-grass. There was still a great deal of
snow remaining even on the lower parts of the land, on which were
numerous ponds of water; on one of these, a pair of young red-throated
divers which could not rise, were killed ; and two flocks of geese, one of
them consisting of not less than sixty or seventy, were seen by Mr. Hooper,
who described them as being very tame, running along the beach before our
people, without rising, for a considerable distance. Some glaucous gulls
and plovers were killed, and we met with several tracks of bears, deer,
wolves, foxes, and mice. The coxswain of the boat found upon the beach
part of the bone of a whale, which had been cut at one end by a sharp
instrument, like an axe, with a quantity of chips lying about it, affording
undoubted proof of this part of the coast having been visited at no distant
period by Esquimaux; it is more than probable, indeed, that they may inhabit
the shores of this inlet, which time would not now permit us to examine.
More than sixty ice-bergs of very large dimensions were in sight from the
top of the hill, together with a number of extensive" floes to the north-
east and south-east, at the distance of four or five leagues from the land.

The latitude of the place of observation on shore was 71° 15' 34", its

1820.

Sept.

274

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sept.

Mon. 4.

longitude 71° 17' 23".6, and the variation of the magnetic needle 91° 28' 32"
Westerly. The tide was falling when we landed; it was low water by the
shore at three o’clock, and at half-past five, when we left the beach, it had risen
only twelve inches. The tide set to the southward in the offing during the after-
noon, especially about three o’clock, at which time the Hecla was observed by
Lieutenant Beechey to be drifting fast against the wind in that direction.

On our return on board, I found that a piece of whale-blubber, cut into a
square shape, had been picked up on the water, which we then considered
as a confirmation of this part of the coast being inhabited, but which was
afterwards more satisfactorily accounted for.

The wind, which had been light from the southward during the night,
shifted to the north-west early in the morning, which induced me to give up
the intention I had formed of further examining the inlet, and we, therefore,
continued our course along shore to the southward. At seven A.M., we passed
another inlet, similar to that of the preceding day, though much smaller,
the land being of the same steep and precipitous character, and the water,
apparently, deep near it.

The latitude observed was 71° 02' 42", agreeing within a mile of the account,
so that no current could well have existed since the preceding day’s observation.
In sounding as usual, at noon, we were not a little surprised in striking bottom
in thirteen fathoms, the appearance of the shore, from which we were three or
four leagues distant, indicating very deep water. A boat was sent a-head
to sound, the wind having again broke us off from the southward ; at two
o’clock we suddenly deepened the water to thirty-five, and soon after to
fifty-six fathoms. At four P.M., we again dropped into fifteen fathoms,
and the boats a-head found as little as eleven, on which several masses of
ice were aground, pointing out, as usual, the extent of the shoal water. These
two banks, which consist of coarse sand with broken shells, were named after
the Hecla and Griper ; they form a striking exception to the general rule
of judging of the boldness of a coast by the appearance of the shores.

While occupied in attending to the soundings, soon after noon, our asto-
nishment may readily be conceived, on seeing, from the mast-head, a ship,
and soon after, two others, in the offing, which were soon ascertained to be
whalers, standing in towards the land. They afterwards bore up to the
northward along the edge of the ice which intervened betwixt us, and we
lost sight of them at night. It was now evident that thisi coast, which had
hitherto been considered, by the whalers, as wholly inaccessible in so high

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

275

a latitude, had become a fishing station like that on the opposite or Green- 1820.
land shore, and the circumstance of our meeting so few whales in Sir James
Lancaster’s Sound this season, was at once accounted for by supposing what,
indeed, we afterwards found to be the case, that the fishing-ships had
been there before us, and had, for a time, scared them from that ground.

The piece of blubber we had picked up was also sufficiently accounted for in
a similar manner.

In standing in-shore at night, we got into deep water, between the banks
and the land, having no soundings with sixty to ninety fathoms of line, where
we lay-to till day-light.

It was so squally on the morning of the 5th, that we could scarcely carry Tues. 5.
our double-reefed topsails, while, as we afterwards learned from the fishing-
ships, which were in sight at day-light, there was scarcely a breath of
wind at a few leagues’ distance from the land. In running to the south-
ward, we passed, in the course of the forenoon, a headland, which is re-
markable as appearing from the northward exactly like three round-topped
islands, for which they had been taken on the voyage of 1818 ; but they
are only small hills situated on comparatively low land, which commences
from hence to the southward next the sea. We coasted this low shore, as
we had done in the preceding voyage, at the distance of two or three miles,
having from twenty-three to twenty -nine fathoms’ water. We here met with
another of our fishing-ships, which proved to be the Lee, of Hull, Mr. Wil-
liamson master; from whom we learned, among other events of a public
nature which were altogether new to us, the public calamity which England
had sustained in the death of our late venerable and beloved Sovereign, and
also the death of His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent. Mr. Williamson,
among others, had succeeded in getting across the ice to this coast as high
as the latitude of 73°, and had come down to this part in pursuit of the
fish. One or two of the ships had endeavoured to return home by running down
this coast, but had found the ice so close about the latitude of 69|°, as to
induce most of the others to sail to the northward, in order to get back in
the same way that they came. Mr, Williamson also reported his having,
a day or two before, met with some Esquimaux in the inlet named the
River Clyde in 1818, which was just to the southward of us. Considering
it a matter of some interest to communicate with these people, who had,
probably, not been before visited by Europeans, and that it might, at the
same time, be useful to examine the inlet, I bore up, as soon as I

2 N 2

276

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sept,

had sent our despatches and letters on board the Lee, and stood in
towards the rocky islet called Agnes’ Monument, passing between it
and the low point which forms the entrance to the inlet on the northern side.
This channel, which is two miles wide, appears bold in every part. As soon
as we had opened the inlet, we dropped off at once from twenty into no
bottom with thirty fathoms of line ; we then hauled over to the Monument,
and, passing at the distance of one hundred and fifty yards from it, had
twenty-seven fathoms, on a bottom of coarse sand.

The north shore of the entrance to this inlet has a sandy beach, along
which we stood for three or four miles towards some low islands, near which
we were directed to look for the Esquimaux huts. Night came on, however,
before we could discover them; and we, therefore, stood out till day-light.
We saw, in the course of this day, more than a dozen large black whales,
principally near the inlet, and the Friendship, of Hull, Mr. Macbride master,
was in sight to the eastward, with a fish alongside.

The weather was too thick, with snow, on the morning of the 6th, to
allow us to stand in for the land. We spoke the Friendship, and Mr. Bell,
one of the owners, kindly offered us any assistance in his power. The wea-
ther having cleared before noon, we bore up for the inlet, being near an
immense iceberg, which, from its situation and dimensions, we recognised to
be the same that had been measured in September, 1818, and found to be
upwards of two miles in length. It was aground in precisely the same spot
as before, where it will probably remain year after year, till gradually wasted ■
by dissolution.

At six in the evening, being near the outermost of the islands, with which
we afterwards found this inlet to be studded, we observed four canoes
paddling towards the ship ; they approached with great confidence, and
came alongside without the least appearance of fear or suspicion. While
paddling towards us, and indeed before we could plainly perceive their
canoes, they continued to vociferate loudly ; but nothing like a song, nor
even any articulate sound, which can be expressed by words, could be distin-
guished. Their canoes were taken on board by their own desire, plainly
intimated by signs, and with their assistance, and they at once came up the
side Avitliout hesitation. These people consisted of an old man, apparently
much above sixty, and three younger, from nineteen to thirty years of age.
As soon as they came on deck, their vociferations seemed to increase with
their astonishment, and, I may add, their pleasure ; for the reception they

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

277

met with seemed to create no less joy than surprise. Whenever they received
a present, or were shewn any thing which excited fresh admiration, they
expressed their delight by loud and repeated ejaculations, which they some-
times continued till they were quite hoarse, and out of breath, with the
exertion. This noisy mode of expressing their satisfaction was accompanied
by a jumping which continued for a minute or more, according to the degree
of the passion which excited it, and the bodily powers of the person who
exercised it, the old man being rather too infirm, but still doing his utmost,
to go through the performance.

After some time passed on deck, during which a few skins and ivory knives
were bought from them, they were taken down into the cabin. The younger
ones received the proposal to descend somewhat reluctantly, till they saw
that their old companion was willing to shew them the example, and they then
followed without fear. We had soon occasion to remark that they were much
better behaved people than the Esquimaux who had visited our ships in 1818,
on the north-eastern coast of Baffin’s Bay. Although we were much at a loss
for an interpreter, we had no great difficulty in making the old man under-
stand, by shewing him an engraved portrait of an Esquimaux, that Lieutenant
Beechey was desirous of making a similar drawing of him. He was accord-
ingly placed on a stool near the fire, and sat for more than an hour with very
tolerable composure and steadiness, considering that a barter for their clothes,
spears, and whalebone, was going on at the same time near him. He was,
indeed, kept quiet by the presents which were given him from time to time;
and when this failed, and he became impatient to move, I endeavoured to
remind him that we wished him to keep his position, by placing my hands
before me, holding up my head, and assuming a grave and demure look.
We now found that the old gentleman was a mimic, as well as a very good-
natured and obliging man ; for, whenever I did this, he always imitated me
in such a manner as to create considerable diversion among his own people,
as well as ours, and then very quietly kept his seat. While he was sitting
for his picture, the other three stood behind him, bartering their commodities
with great honesty, but in a manner which shewed them to be no strangers
to traffic. If, for instance, a knife was offered for any article, they would
hesitate for a short time, till they saw we were determined to give no higher
price, and then at once consented to the exchange. In this case, as well as
when any thing was presented to them, they immediately licked it twice with
their tongues, after which they seemed to consider the bargain satisfactorily

278

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. concluded. The youngest of the party very modestly kept behind the others,
and, before he was obseiwed to have done so, missed several presents, which
his less diffident, though not importunate, companions had received. As the
night closed in, they became desirous to depart, and they left us before dark,
highly delighted with their visit. As I had purchased one of their canoes,
a boat was sent to land its late owner, as only one person can sit in each.
Mr. Palmer informed me, that, in going on shore, the canoes could beat our
boat very much in rowing, whenever the Esquimaux chose to exert themselves,
but they kept close to her the whole way. During the time that they were
on board, we had observed in them a great aptness for imitating certain of
our words ; and, while going on shore, they took a particular liking to the
expression of “ Hurra, give way !” which they heard Mr, Palmer use to the
boat’s crew, and which they frequently imitated, to the great amusement of
all parties.

Being desirous of seeing more of these people, of whom the first interview
had given us a favourable impression, I determined to lie-to during the night,
and to take the ships higher up the inlet on the following day. Mr. Bell came
on board from the Friendship in the evening, and, after repeating his offers
of assistance, communicated to us many events of a public nature, which
could not but be extremely interesting to us, after a complete seclusion from
the rest of the world for a period of seventeen months. The tem-
perature of the sea at the bottom, in one hundred and ninety-five fathoms,
was 31|°, and at the depth of seventy-six fathoms 31°.3; that of the surface
water being 33°, and of the atmosphere 32°.

I'huis. 7. The calm weather which prevailed during the night, was succeeded by a
breeze from the westward on the morning of the 7th, of which advantage was
immediately taken to beat up the inlet, which proved a very extensive one, and
of which a particular chart is annexed. The sun did not break through the
clouds till half-after seven, when the expected eclipse was found to have com-
menced, and I determined to land, with Captain Sabine, upon the nearest island,
in order to observe the end of it, as well as to obtain the other usual observa-
tions, together with angles for the survey. At ten minutes past eight the sun
, became again obscured, and was not visible till twenty minutes past nine,
when we had landed, and were prepared with our glasses, but were disap-
pointed, in finding that the eclipse was over.

Soon after we had landed, the old Esquimaux and one of his younger com-
panions, paddled over from the main land, and joined us upon the island.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

279

They brought with them, as before, some pieces of whalebone and seal- I820.
skin dresses, which were soon disposed of, great care being taken by them
not to produce more than one article at a time, returning to their canoes,
which were at a little distance from our boat, after the purchase of each of
their commodities, till their little stock was exhausted. Considering it
desirable t6 keep.up among them the ideas of fair and honest exchange, which
they already seemed to possess in no ordinary degree, I did not permit them
to receive any thing as presents, till all their commodities had been regularly
bought. While we were waiting to obtain the sun’s meridian altitude,
they amused themselves in the most good-natured and cheerful manner with
the boat’s crew; and, Lieutenant Hoppner, who, with Mr. Beverly, had
joined us in the Griper’s boat, took this opportunity of making a drawing
of the young man. It required, however, some shew of authority, as well
as some occasional rewards, to keep him quietly seated on the rock for a
time sufficient for this purpose ; the inclination they have to jump about,
when much pleased, rendering it a penalty of no trifling nature for them to
sit still for half an hour together. To shew their disposition to do us what
little service was in their power, he afterwards employed himself in
sharpening the seamen’s knives, which he did with great expertness on any
flat smooth stone, returning each as soon as finished, to its proper owner,
and then making signs for another, which he sharpened and returned in the
same way, without any attempt, and apparently without the smallest desire,
to detain it. The old man was extremely inquisitive, and directed his at-
tention to those things which appeared useful, rather than to those which
were merely amusing. An instance of this occurred on my ordering a tin
canister of preserved meat to be opened for the boats’ crews’ dinner. The
old man was sitting on the rock, attentively watching the operation, which
was performed with an axe struck by a mallet, when one of the men came
up to us with a looking-glass. I held it up to each of the Esquimaux, who
had also seen one the preceding evening, and then gave it into each of their
hands successively. The younger one was quite in raptures, and literally
jumped for joy for nearly a quarter of an hour : but the old man having had
one smile at his own queer face, immediately resumed his former gravity,
and, returning me the glass, directed his whole attention to the opening
of the canister, and when this was effected, begged very hard for the
mallet which had performed so useful an office, without expressing the least
wish to partake of the meat, even when he saw us eating it with good

280

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

appetites. Being prevailed on, however, to taste a little of it, with some
biscuit, they did not seem at all to relish it, but eat a small quantity from
an evident desire not to offend us, and then deposited the rest safely in
their canoes. They could not be persuaded to taste any rum, after once
smelling it, even when much diluted with water. I do not know whether it
be a circumstance worthy of notice, that, when a kaleidoscope or a J:elescope
was given them to look into, they immediately shut one eye, and one of them
used the right, and the other the left eye.

In getting out of their canoes, as well as into them, great care is re-
quired to preserve the balance of these frail and unsteady coracles, and
in this they generally assist each other. As we were leaving the island,
and they were about to follow us, we lay on our oars to observe how they
would manage this, and it was gratifying to see that the young man launched
the canoe of his aged companion, and having carefully steadied it
alongside the rock, till he had safely embarked, carried his own down, and
contrived, though with some difficulty, to get into it without assistance.
They seem to take especial care in launching their canoes, not to rub them
against the rocks, by placing one end gently in the water, and holding the
other up high, till it can be deposited without risk of injury. As soon
as we commenced rowing, the Esquimaux began to vociferate their newly-
acquired expression of “ Hurra, give way,” which they continued at intervals,
accompanied by the most good-humoured merriment, as we crossed over to
the main land. There being now a little sea, occasioned by a weather tide,
we found that our boats could easily beat their canoes in rowing, notwith-
standing their utmost endeavours to keep up with us.

The two Esquimaux tents, which we were now going to visit, were situated
just within a low point of land, forming the eastern side of the entrance to a
considerable branch of the inlet, extending some distance to the northward.

I

The situation is warm and pleasant, having a south-westerly aspect, and
being in every respect well adapted for the convenient residence of these
poor people. We landed outside the point, and walked over to the tents,
sending our boats, accompanied by the two canoes, round the point to meet
us. As soon as we came in sight of the tents, every living animal there,
men, women, children, and dogs, were in motion, the latter to the
top of the hill out of our way, and the rest to meet us with loud and
continued shouting ; the word “ pilleta^” [give me] being the only articulate
sound we coiild distinguish, amidst the general uproar. Besides the four

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

281

men whom we had already seen, there were four women, one of which 1820.
being about the same age as the old man, was probably his wife ; the others
were about thirty, twenty-two, and eighteen years of age. The first two
of these, whom we supposed to be married to the two oldest of the young
men, had infants slung in a kind of bag at their backs, much in the same
way as gipsies are accustomed to carry their children. There were also
seven children, from twelve to three years of age, besides the two infants
in arms, or rather behind their mothers’ backs ; and the woman of thirty was
with child.

We began, as before, by buying whatever they had to dispose of, giving
in exchange knives, axes, brass kettles, needles, and other useful articles,
and then added such presents as might be further serviceable to them.

From the first moment of our arrival until we left them, or rather until we
had nothing left to give, the females were particularly importunate with us,
and “ pilletay” resounded from the whole troop, wherever we went: they
were extremely anxious to obtain our buttons, apparently more on account of
the ornament of the crown and anchor which they observed upon them,
than from any value they set upon their use ; and several of these were
cut off our jackets to please their fancy. When I first endeavoured to
bargain for a sledge, the persons I addressed gave me distinctly to under-
stand by signs, that it was not their property, and pointed towards the
woman who owned it; though my ignorance in this respect offered a
good opportunity of defrauding me, had they been so inclined, by receiving
an equivalent for that which did not belong to them: on the owner’s coming
forward, the bargain was quickly concluded. The pikes which I gave
in exchange underwent the usual ceremony of licking, and the sledge was
carried to our boat with the most perfect understanding on both sides.

In another instance, an axe was offered by some of the Griper’s gentlemen,
as the price of a dog, to which the woman who owned the animal consented.

To shew that we placed full confidence in them, the axe was given to her
before the dog was caught, and she immediately went away with a kind of
halter or harness of thongs, which they use for this purpose, and honestly
brought one of the finest among them, though nothing would have , been
easier than to have evaded the performance of her contract. The readiness,
however, with which they generally parted with their commodities, was by
no means the effect of fear, nor did it always depend on the value of the
articles offered in exchange ; for, having, as I thought, concluded a bargain

282

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. for a second canoe belonging to the old woman, I desired the men to hand
it down to the boat; but I soon perceived that I had misunderstood her,
for she clung fast to the canoe, and cried most piteously till it was set
doAvn ; I then offered a larger price than before, but she could not be in-
duced to part with it.

The stature of these people, like that of Esquimaux in general, is much below
the usual standard. The height of the old man, who was rather bent by age,
was four feet eleven inches, and that of the other men from five feet four and a
half to five feet six inches. Their faces are round and plump in the younger indi-
viduals ; skin smooth ; complexion not very dark, except that of the old man ;
teeth very white ; eyes small ; nose broad, but not very flat ; hair black, straight,
and glossy ; and their hands and feet extremely diminutive. The old man had a
grey beard in which the black hairs predominated, and wore the hair rather
long upon his upper lip, which was also the case with the eldest of the three
others. One of these, we thought, bore a striking resemblance to our poor
friend John Sackheuse, well-known as the Esquimaux who accompanied the
former Expedition, the want of whose services we particularly felt on this
occasion, and whose premature death had been sincerely lamented by all
who knew him, as an intelligent and amiable man, and a valuable member
of society.

The grown-up females measured from four feet ten to four feet eleven
inches. The features of the two youngest were regular; their complexions
clear, and by no means dark; their eyes small, black, and piercing; teeth
beautifully white and perfect ; and although the form of their faces is round
and chubby, and their noses rather flat than otherwise, their countenances
might, perhaps, be considered pleasing even according to the ideas of beauty
which habit has taught us to entertain. Their hair, which is jet-black,
hangs down long and loose about their shoulders, a part of it on each side
being carelessly plaited, and sometimes rolled up into an awkward lump,
instead of being neatly tied on the top of the head, as the Esquimaux women
in most other parts are accustomed to wear it. The youngest female had
much natural bashfulness and timidity, and we considered her to be the
only unmarried one, as she differed from the other three in not being tattoed
upon the face. Two of them had their hands tattooed also, and the old
woman had a few marks of the same kind about each wrist. None of the
meri or children were thus distinguished.

The children were generally good-looking, and the eldest boy, about twelve

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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

283

years of age, was a remarkably fine and even handsome lad. *They were 1820.
rather scared at us at first; but kind treatment, and a few trifling pre-
sents, soon removed their fears, and made them almost as importunate as
the rest.

The dress of the men consists of a seal-skin jacket, with a hood which is
occasionally drawn over the head, of which it forms the only covering.

The breeches are also generally of seal-skin, and are made to reach below the
knee, and their boots which meet the breeches are made of the same ma-
terial. In this dress we perceived no difference from that of the other Es-
quimaux, except that the jacket, instead of having a pointed flap before
and behind, as usual, was quite straight behind, and had a sort of scollop
before in the centre. In the dress of the women there was not so much
regard to decency as in that of the men. The jacket is of seal-skin, with
a short, pointed flap before, and a long one behind, reaching almost to
the ground. They had on a kind of drawers, similar to , those described by
Crantz, as the summer-dress of the Greenland women, and no breeches.

The drawers cover the middle part of the body, from the hips to one-third
down the thigh, the rest of which is entirely naked nearly as far as the
knee. The boots are like those of the men, and besides these they have
a pair of very loose leggins, as they may be called, which hang down
carelessly upon the top of the boots, suffering their thighs to be exposed in
the manner before described, but which may be intended occasionally to
fasten up, so as to complete the covering of the whole body. The children
are all remarkably well clothed ; their dress, both in male and female, being
in every respect the same as that of the men, and composed entirely of
seal-skin, very neatly sewed.

The tents ,which compose their summer-habitations, are principally sup-
ported by a long pole of whalebone, fourteen feet high, standing perpen-
dicularly, with four or five feet of it projecting above the skins which form
the roof and sides. The length of the tent is seventeen, and its breadth
from seven to nine feet, the narrowest part being next the door, and
widening towards the inner part, where the bed, composed of a quantity
of the small shrubby plant, the Andromeda Tetragona, occupies about
one-third of the whole apartment. The pole of the tent is fixed where the
bed commences, and the latter is kept separate by some pieces of bone laid
across the ,tent from side to side. The door which faces the south-west,

is also formed of two pieces of bone, with the upper ends fastened together,

2 0 2

284

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. and the skins are made to overlap in that part of the tent, which is much lower
than the inner end. The covering is fastened to the ground by curved
pieces of bone, being generally parts of the whale ; the tents were ten or
fifteen yards apart, and about the same distance from the beach.

The canoe which I purchased, and which was one of the best of the
five that we saw, is sixteen feet eleven inches in length, and its extreme
breadth two feet one inch and a half; two feet of its fore-end are out of
the water when floating. It differs from the canoe of Greenland, in being
somewhat lower at each end, and also in having a higher rhn or gun-wale,
as it may be termed, round the circular hole where the man sits, which
may make them somewhat safer at sea. Their construction is, in other
respects, much the same ; the timbers, or ribs, which are five or six
inches apart, as well as the fore and aft connecting pieces being of whale-
bone or drift-wood, and the skins with which they were covered, those of
the seal and walrus. When the canoes are taken on shore, they are carefully
placed on two upright piles or pillars of stones, four feet high from the
ground, in order to allow the air to pass under to dry them, and prevent
their rotting. The paddle is double and made of fir, the edges of the blade
being covered with hard bone to secure them from wearing.

The spears or darts which they use in killing seals and other sea animals,
consist, like the harpoons of our fishermen^ of two parts, a staff, and the
spear itself ; the former is usually of wood, when so scarce and valuable a
commodity can be obtained, from three and a half to five feet in length, and
the latter of bone, about eighteen inches long, sometimes tipped with iron,
but more commonly ground to a blunt point at one end, while the other fits
into a socket in the staff, to which it is firmly secured by thongs. The lines
which they attach to their spears are very neatly cut out of seal-skins, and
when in a state of preparation, are left to stretch till dry, between the tents,
and then made up into coils for use. They make use of a bladder fastened
to the end of the line, in the same manner as the other Esquimaux. Besides
the spears, we purchased an instrument having a rude hook of iron let into a
piece of bone, and secured by -thongs to a staff, the hook being sharply
pointed, but not barbed. While we were on the island (to which I had
applied the name of Observation Island), it happened that a small bird flew
near us, when one of the Esquimaux made the sign of shooting it with a
bow and arrow, in a manner which could not be misunderstood. It is re-
markable, therefore, that we could not find about their tents any of these

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

285

weapons, except a little one five or six inches long, the bow being made of
whalebone, and the arrow of fir, with a feather at one eiid and a blunt point
of bone at the other, evidently appearing to be a child’s toy, and intended,
perhaps, to teach the use of it at an early age.

The runners of the only sledge we saw were composed of the right and
left jaw-bones of a young whale, being nine feet nine inches long, one foot
seven inches apart, and seven inches high from the ground. They are con-
nected by a number of parallel pieces, made out of the ribs of the whale,
and secured transversely with seizings of whale-bone, so as to form the
bottom of the sledge, and the back is made of two deer’s horns placed in an
upright position. The lower part of the runners is shod with a harder kind
of bone, to resist the friction against the ground. The whole vehicle is
rudely executed, and, being nearly twice the weight of the sledges we saw
among the northern Esquimaux, is probably intended for carrying heavy
burdens. The dogs were not less than fifty or sixty in number, and had
nothing about them different from those on the eastern coast of Baffin’s Bay,
except that they do not stand near so high as those of the latitude of 76°.
They are very shy and wild, and the natives had great difficulty in catching
them while we were by, as well as holding them in when caught. Some
of them have much more of the wolf in their appearance than others, having
very long heads and sharp noses, with a brushy tail, almost always carried
between the legs ; while the bodies of others are less lank, as well as
their noses less sharp, and they carry their tails handsomely curled over their
backs : their colour varied from quite dark to brindled. The ravenous
manner in which they devour their food is almost incredible. Both the old
and young ones, when a bird is given them, generally swallow feathers and
all ; and an old dog that I purchased, though regularly fed while on board by a
person appointed for that purpose, eat up, with great avidity, a large piece of
canvass, a cotton handkerchief, which one of the men had just washed and laid
down by his side, and part of a check shirt. The young dogs will at any
time kill themselves by over-eating, if permitted. The children appeared to
have some right of property in the smaller puppies, or else theirq)arents are
very indulgent to them, for several bargains of this kind were made with
them, without any objection or interference on the part of the parents, who
were standing by at the time.

Within a few stones, irregularly placed in a corner of each tent, was a lamp
of oil and moss, and over each of these was suspended a small stone vessel

,1820.

Sept.

286

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. of an oblong shape, and broader at the top than at the bottom, containing a
large mess of sea-horse flesh, with a great quantity of thick gravy. Some
ribs of this meat were by no means bad-looking, and but for the blood mixed
with the gravy, and the dirt which accompanied the cooking, might perhaps
be palatable enough. I bargained with a woman for one of the stone vessels,
giving her a brass kettle in exchange. Before she gave it into my pos-
session, she emptied the meat into another vessel, and then, with the flap of
her jacket, wiped out the remains of the gravy; thus combining with what
our notions of cleanliness incline us to consider a filthy act, an intention of
decency and a desire to oblige us, which, however inconsistent, it was still
pleasing to obseiwe. Some of their vessels are made of whale-bone, in a
circular form, one piece being bent into the proper shape for the sides, and
another flat piece of the same material, sewn to it for a bottom, so closely as
to make it perfectly water-tight. Their knives are made of the tusks of the
walrus, cut or ground sufficiently thin for the purpose, and retaining the
original curve of the tusk, so as to resemble the little swords which children
have as toys in England. As they do not appear to have any instrument
like a saw, great time and labour must be required in making one of these
knives, which seem to answer most of the purposes to which they have
occasion to apply them.

From the description given to us by Mr. Williamson, we found that these
were the same persons who had been seen by the Lee’s people ; but we
had several proofs of their having had some previous communication, di-
rectly or indirectly, with the civilized world ; such as some light blue beads,
strung by themselves on thin leathern threads; and an instrument for chopping,
very much resembling a cooper’s adze, which had evidently been secured
to a handle of bone for some time past, . and of which the iron was part
of an old file.

The short time which we were among them, as well as the want of an
interpreter, prevented our obtaining much of the information which would
have been interesting, respecting the language, manners, and number of this
tribe of Esquimaux. They call the bear, nennook ; the deer, tooJdook ; and
the hare, ookalik ; being nearly the same words as those used on the eastern
coast of Baffin’s Bay. As it was considered a matter of some interest to ascer-
tain whether they were acquainted with the musk-ox, a drawing of that animal
was put before the men who were on board. The small size of it seemed> at
first sight, to confound them ; but, as soon as a real head and horns were

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

287

produced, they immediately recognised them, and eagerly repeated the word i82o.
oomingmack, which at once satisfied us, that they knew the musk-ox, and that
this was the animal spokeii of by the Esquimaux of Greenland, under the
same name, somewhat differently pronounced.

To judge by their appearance, and what is perhaps a better criterion, the
number of their children, there could be little doubt that the means of sub-
sistence which they possess are very abundant ; but of this we had more
direct proof, by the quantity of sea-horses and seals which we found con-
cealed under stones, along the shore of the north branch, as well as on
Observation Island. Mr. Fife reported that, in sounding the north branch,
he met with their winter-huts, about two miles above the tents on the
same shore, and that they were partly excavated from a bank facing the sea,
and the rest built round with stones.

We saw no appearance of , disease among the seventeen persons who
inhabited the tents, except that the eyes of the old couple were rather blear,
and a very young infant looked pale and sickly. The old man had a large
scar on one side of his head, which he explained to us very clearly to be a
wound he had received from a nennook (bear). Upon the whole, these people
may be considered in possession of every necessary of life, as well as of most
of the comforts and conveniences which can be enjoyed in so rude a state of
society. In the situation and circumstances in which the Esquimaux of
North Greenland are placed, there is much to excite compassion for the low
state to which human ’nature appears to be there reduced; a state in few
respects superior to that of the bear or the seal, which they kill for their
subsistence. But, with these, it was impossible not to experience a feeling
of a more pleasing kind: there was a respectful decency in their general
behaviour, which at once struck us as very different from that of the other
untutored Esquimaux, and in their persons there was less of that in-
tolerable filth by which these people are so generally distinguished. But
the superiority for which they are the most remarkable is, the perfect honesty
which characterized all their dealings with us. During the two hours that the
men were on board, and for four or five hours that we were subsequently among
them on shore, on both which occasions the temptation to steal from us was
perhaps stronger than we can well imagine, and the opportunity of doing
so by no means wanting, not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of
their pilfering the most trifling article. It is pleasing to record a fact, no
less singular in itself; than honourable to these simple people.

288

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sept.

Having made the necessary observations, we went to the tents to take
leave of our new acquaintance. The old man seemed quite fatigued with
the day’s exertions, but his eyes sparkled with delight, and we thought with
gratitude too, on being presented with another brass kettle, to add to the
stores with which we had already enriched him. He seemed to understand
us when we shook him by the hand ; the whole group watched us in silence,
as we went into the boat, and, as soon as we had rowed a few hundred yards
from the beach, quietly retired to their tents.

The latitude observed upon Observation Island was 70° 21' 57", its longi-
tude by chronometers being 68° 28' 33", and the variation of the magnetic
needle 80° 59' 17" Westerly. The tide rose two feet from half-past nine till
half-past twelve. In crossing over to the main land, we then found a con-
siderable ripple on the water, as if occasioned by a tide setting against
the wind to the westward, which was, therefore, probably the flood. During
the time that we were on shore at the tents, the tide was falling, so that
the time of high-water this day (being new moon) would appear to be
between half-past twelve and half-past one o’clock. Having walked some
distance up the shore of the north branch, we thought that the water did not
taste very salt ; the specific gravity of that taken up near the ship at noon
was 1.0223 at the temperature of 52°, and in the evening, a second experiment
gave precisely the same result. In the particular chart of this fine inlet,
which is annexed, it is not pretended to give an accurate delineation of the
numerous islands and openings which it contains, our distance from the upper
part of the inlet being too great, and our time too limited for this purpose.
In stretching across from side to side, the water was found so deep, close
to the shores, that no anchorage could be discovered, and in the middle
was a depth of one hundred and fifty to two hundred fathoms ; nothing like
a rock or danger of any kind could be perceived, as far as the ships proceeded.

We bore up to run out of the inlet, at six P.M., passing between Observa-
tion Island and another immediately to the northward of it, and having no
bottom with the hand-leads in mid-channel ; off the north end of Observation
Island, however, I found the water to shoal for about a hundred yards, and
then deepen at once. Soon after we had cleared the inlet, the wind backed
to the southward ; we, therefore, stood off to the eastward, and hove-to till
day -light. The land to the southward of this inlet becomes low next the sea,
in the same manner as that to the northward of it, and a similar regularity in
the decrease of the soundings is observed in standing in-shore ; we had from

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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

289

fifty-seven to thirty-nine fathoms in the course of the night, in which depth 1820.
we met with a number of icebergs aground.

The wind being contrary on the 8th, we made very little progress to the
southward. The soundings continuing as regular as before, we stood in-
shore to eleven fathoms, and put the trawl overboard for an hour or two in
the afternoon, bringing up a great quantity of sea-eggs {Echini), a few very
small oysters, and some marine insects, but nothing that could furnish us
with a fresh meal. The net was much broken by the roughness of the
bottom, which consisted of very coarse sand and small stones ; we tried it
again in the evening, but with no better success. The weather was at this
time remarkably fine and pleasant, and it was impossible for us not to con-
trast our present climate with that against which we had to contend about the
same period the preceding year.

In proceeding to the southward, on the 9th, we passed a headland wliich, >Sat. 9.
like another I have before mentioned, has exactly the appearance of three
islands, when seen from the northward ; a deception occasioned by three
small hills near the point, situated upon comparatively low land. Having
passed this headland, we discovered immediately to the southward of
it a spacious bay or inlet, at least five or six leagues deep in the
north-west part of it. The land at the bottom of this bay is high and
mountainous, with every appearance of deep water near the shore ; but
in proceeding along shore to the southward, it again becomes low next
the sea, with hills at the back, and with the same safe and regular sound-
ings as before.

We hove-to at noon to observe the meridian altitude upon a floe of ice,
the land being too near to obtain it by the natural horizon. The latitude
was 69° 24' 37", and the longitude 67° 05' 43".6, being in thirty-five fathoms
at five or six miles from the land. The water from the bottom was at the
temperature of 31°, that of the surface being 32°|, and of the air 34°. The
wind dying away soon after noon, gave us an opportunity of trying the
current by a boat moored to the bottom in nineteen fathoms, when it was
found to be running somewhat less than a mile an hour in a S. |E. direction.

At forty minutes past four P.M., it was again tried in a similar manner, when
it was setting to the S.E., at the rate of three-quarters of a mile per hour ;
and, at seven o’clock, when we hove-to near Cape Kater, for the Griper to
join us, we found it to be slack water. We stood off and on during the
night, having from thirteen to twenty fathoms’ water, with the intention of

2 P

290

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. examining the large inlet which opens to the southward of Cape Kater. It
now became obvious, that what had been mistaken for banks near Cape
Kater on the preceding voyage were, in reality, only the regular shore sound-
ings, which are in no respect different from those which occur in the whole
space between this inlet and the river Clyde, at the same distance from the
land. These soundings had appeared to indicate banks in 1818, because we
came into them from an offing of several leagues ; whereas, had we been running
along shore, as in the present instance, we should have found a similar depth
for near a hundred miles to the northward of Cape Kater, except at the
mouths of the inlets where the water is always very deep.

There was a great deal of loose ice, and many bergs on this part of the
coast ; but we did not meet with the same obstruction off Cape Kater as on
the former voyage. . Several young black Avhales and a seal were seen in
the course of the day.

Sun. 10. The wind being fresh and squally down the inlet, on the morning of the
10th, a press of sail was carried, for the purpose of examining it ; but in the
course of the forenoon we were obliged to close-reef the topsails, and send
down the top-gallant-yards. We found this immense bay crowded with
islands, which, together with its numerous openings, would require a con-
siderable time to survey them accurately, and of the position of which, there-
fore, only a general idea is given in the annexed chart. Towards noon, a haze
which had been resting over the western horizon cleared away, and we saw
the land nearly all round the bay ; but the distance at which we were was too
great to enable us to ascertain satisfactorily its absolute continuity. Such,
indeed, was the appearance of this magnificent inlet, of which the width of
the entrance is not less than fifteen leagues, that it is highly probable some
outlet may be found through it from Baffin’s Bay into the Polar Sea ; the
strong westerly wind, and the intention I had formed of exploring this coast
in a lower latitude, particularly about Cumberland Strait, prevented any
further examination of it on this occasion. We crossed over, therefore, to
the south shore, where we stood off and on till day-light should enable us
to proceed to the southward. We passed, in the course of the, day, the carcass
of a dead whale, on which the fulmar petrels and ivory-gulls were feeding, in
great numbers.

Mon. 11, As soon as day-light appeared, we took advantage of a light westerly
breeze to stand to the south-east under all sail, but had soon the mortifica-
tion to perceive that a compact body of flpe-ice obstructed our passage to

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

291

the southward, stretching close in to the land a few miles a-head of us. At 1820.
noon we were in latitude, by observation, 68° 19' 45 ", and longitude, by
chronometers, 66° 05' 45", in two hundred and seventy-five fathoms, muddy
bottom. The temperature of the sea at the depth of one hundred and
forty-six fathoms, was 34°, the surface being at 32°, and the air 34°. This
experiment differing from those which we had lately made as to the com-
parative temperature, we tried again in one hundred and sixty-five fathoms,
and found it exactly the same as before. It must be remarked that, for each
of the last three days, and for these only, we had found the ship between
seven and eight miles to the southward of the reckoning.

The wind having fallen, we made little progress to the south-east, till the Tues. 12,
morning of the 12th, when alight breeze springing-up from the south-west, all
sail was made to examine the state of the ice. On approaching the floes, how-
ever, we found such a quantity of bay ice, the formation of which upon the
surface had been favoured by the late calm weather, that the Hecla was soon
stopped altogether, a circumstance which gave us, as usual, much trouble in
extricating ourselves from it, but not very material as regarded our further
progress to the southward, the floes being found to stretch quite close in to the
land, leaving no passage whatever between them. At noon we were still no
farther to the southward than 68° 15' 20", and in longitude 65° 48' 38", the
former agreeing very well with the reckoning. I was desirous of taking ad-
vantage of our present unavoidable detention, to make a set of observations
on the irregularities of the magnetic needle on board the Hecla ; but the
young ice remained so tough during the day, notwithstanding the weather
was calm and clear, with the thermometer at 65° in the sun in the course of
the afternoon, that it was found impracticable to turn the ship’s head in the
desired direction for that purpose. The compasses now traversed very freely,
and were made use of for the purposes of navigation, in the ordinary way ; an
account of the variation observed on different courses, as occasion offered,
will be found among the other observations in the Appendix.

Soon after ten P.M., the Aurora Borealis made its appearance ; I am in-
debted to Captain Sabine for the following description of this phenomenon:

“ The Aurora was visible for upwards of half an hour, its appearance being
comprised within about twelve points of the heavens, from S.E.b.E. to W.b.N,,
the magnetic north being about N, 76°. W. The character of this pheno-
menon was peculiar, being distinguished from those which we were accustomed
to see at Melville Island, by the far greater rapidity with which it spread and

2 P2

292

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. shifted from one part of the heavens to another; by the depth and vividness
of the colours, both of red and green, Avith which its coruscations were
tinted ; and by its streamers breaking out unexpectedly in places previously
obscure, and extending indifferently downwards as well as upwards. The
latter distinction was contrasted with the more usual appearance of rays
streaming towards the zenith, from an arch of faintly brilliant light. An
Aurora of similar appearance was observed in the Atlantic during the return
of the Isabella, in October 1818, from Davis’ Strait to Shetland. The pecu-
liarities of the present phenomenon were more marked in the commencement
than towards the conclusion of its appearance.”

Wed. 13. On the 13th, which was nearly calm, the bay-ice had so much in-
creased in thickness that the Hecla could not be moved through it, with
the assistance of the boats, two of which were rendered unserviceable by
the ice cutting their planks. We were off a small inlet, which, together
Avith some islands discovered on this part of the coast, will be found upon
the chart.

Thur. 14. On the 14-th, having been set at liberty from the bay-ice by a breeze
springing up, I determined to occupy no more time in the endeaAour to get
immediately along shore to the south-east, where the obstructions remained
as before, but to run back a short distance along the ice to the northAAmrd, in
order to endeavour to get round it if possible, and then to stretch in again
toAvards the land. The ice had closed so much all round us, however, that
Ave had some difficulty in finding a passage out of our present confined situ-
ation, Avhich we at length effected before noon, passing by a chain of ice-
bergs Avhich were found to be aground in thirty-five to fifty fathoms, and
which extending four or five leagues from the shore, sufficiently account for
the obstruction offered by the floes in this place.

The temperature of the water at the bottom in thirty-five fathoms was 31°A,
on the surface 32°, that of the air being 34°. A small fish, apparently of the
Avhiting kind, was seen upon a piece of ice, and a great many black Avhales
Avere near us in the course of this and the preceding day.

The extraordinary fine and clear weather which we experienced in the
first fortnight of September is a circumstance worthy of remark : during that
period, we had very little snow, and not one whole day’s foggy weather.
The fog Avas, perhaps, in some measure, avoided by keeping close in shore,
as Ave occasionally perceived fog-banks in the offing, while we were enjoying
clear weather near the land.

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

S93

In attempting to sail to the eastward, we found the ice become more and 1820.
more close, and a fog with sleet coming on obliged me to make the ships fast
to a floe of considerable extent, and five or six feet in thickness, being
latitude, by account, 68° 24' 18", and longitude 63° 32' 42". We had here
no bottom with six hundred and ten fathoms of line ; the temperature of the
sea at one hundred and seventy fathoms was 30°|, that of the surface being
the same, and of the air 31°.

As the sun was occasionally visible, notwithstanding the fog, a set of ob-
servations was begun for ascertaining the variation of the magnetic needle
on board the Hecla ; but these could with difficulty be obtained on ten
points of the compass, after which the sun became again obscured. The
thermometer fell to 23° at night, which was lower than we had before
experienced it in the course of this month, and the fog froze hard upon the
rigging.

The fog continued so thick on the 16th, as to oblige us to keep the ships Stit. IG.
fast to the floe. In the afternoon the deep-sea clamms were sent do^vn to
the bottom with two thousand and ten fathoms of line, which were fifty-eight
minutes in running out, during which time no perceptible check could be
observed, nor even any alteration in the velocity with which the line ran out.

In hauling it in again, however, which occupied both ships’ companies above
an hour and a half, we found such a quantity of the line covered with mud
as to prove that the whole depth of water was only eight hundred and nine
fathoms, the rest of the line having continued to run out by its own weight,
after the instrument had struck the ground. I have before had occasion to
remark that, on this account, it is not easy to ascertain the actual depth of
the sea in the usual manner, when it exceeds five or six hundred fathoms.

A self-registering thermometer, which remained at the bottom for two hours
and three-quarters, indicated a temperature of 27°*, that of the surface being
31°, and of the air 34°. Some cubes of wood, whose sides measured two
inches, were also attached to the clamms, in order to try what increase of
weight each kind would acquire by the pressure of the water at a great
depth; the result, as ascertained by Mr. Edwards, is shewn in the follow-
ing table: —

* The instrument with which this experiment was made had been a good deal used
for the same purpose, and did not, perhaps, indicate the temperature with very great
accuracy.

294f

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

Original
weight in
grains.

Weight on
coming to
the surface.

Increase

of

weight.

Weight
three hours
afterwards.

Decrease
in those

three hours.

Ash . . .

1425

2324

899

2291

S3

Fir . . .

863

2112

1249

1964

00

Oak . . .

1421

2252

831

2201

51

Elm . . .

1220

2299

1079

2201

98

Sun. 17. The wind shifting to the south-west on the morning of the 17th, we were
nearly beset by the loose ice closing upon us, the ships being now on the
windward side of the floe. After four hours’ labour we succeeded in getting
clear, and made sail among loose ice to the south-east. This course, hown
ever, we were not able to continue long, as the ice led us, in the course of
the day, considerably* to the northward; and, in the evening, an iceberg
was selected, out of the numerous ones in sight, to which the ships were
made fast before dark, it being impossible to keep them under- way during
the night. We were not sorry to find some swell aflecting the ships, such
as w'^e had not before experienced for more than twelve months, affording an
indication of an open sea at no great distance from Us. The loose and heavy
pieces of ice which drifted-in under the lee of the berg, and on which the
ships occasionally struck with some force, kept the people constantly em-
ployed during the night, in veering and heaving in to avoid coming in
contact with them. Some bears were heard growling upon the berg, and
some seals, ivory-gulls, and little auks, the latter in small flocks, were seen
in the course of the day.

Mon. 18. On the 18th, the weather continued too foggy to move the ships in the
forenoon. We tried for soundings with eight hundred and ninety-seven
fathoms of line, without finding bottom; our latitude, by account, being
68° 24' 03" ; longitude 63° 08' 12". The temperature of the sea at the depth
of three hundred and eighteen fathoms, was 30°, that of the surface being
the same, and of the air 29°.

Soon after noon, the weather being somewhat less foggy, we cast off and
made sail to the eastward. The ice here consisted generally of loose but
heavy pieces, among which there was scarcely room to sail, and here and
there a floe which obliged us to make several tacks. We also passed several

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

295

square pieces of floe-ice, which had evidently been cut out of a dock by 1820.
some of the whalers in the course of the present season. The ships were
secured to a berg dt six P.M., and the wind having freshened up to a gale
from the N.W.b.N., with some swell, we were much annoyed during the
night by the ice which drifted under the lee of it, and on which the ships
were constantly striking with a heavy shock, such as no others could long
have withstood. This danger is avoided by ships lying very close under the
lee of a berg, but a much greater is thereby incurred from the risk of the
berg’s upsetting ; a circumstance which is always to be apprehended in a
swell, and which must be attended with certain destruction to a ship moored
very near to it.

At day-light on the 19th, we cast off from the berg, and occupied the whole Tues. 19.
of the day in unsuccessful attempts to get through the ice in to the land, of
which we could only obtain a very distant glimpse, bearing from S. 24° W. to
S. 69° W. By hauling to the north-eastward, we got into sufficiently clear
water to enable me to keep the ships under way during the night; but, the
wind falling light, great attention was requisite in avoiding the icebergs, which
were numerous, and of large dimensions.

The weather was so thick with snow on the 20th, that we could make no Wed. 20.
progress. At noon, being in latitude 68° 12' 11", and longitude 60° 50' 19",
no soundings could be obtained with seven hundred and seventy fathoms of
line. The temperature of the sea, at the depth of three hundred and eigh-
teen fathoms, was 33°, that of the surface being 32°, and of the air 31°|,

On the following day we sounded in two hundred fathoms, on a bottom of Thur. 21.
very fine sand and broken shells, and found the temperature of some water
brought up from that depth in Dr. Marcet’s bottle, to be 33°j ; that of the air
at the same time was 30°, and of the surface-water 34°|, being the warmest
we had observed for a considerable time.

On the 23d, having run to the southward nearly as far as the latitude of Sat, 23.
Mount Raleigh, without being able to approach the land, the trending of the
ice flattered us for some time with the hope of getting in with the coast ; but
at two P.M. we came to a compact and impenetrable body of it, over which
we could not see any clear water from the mast-head, and which obliged us
to haul off to the south-eastward.

On the 24th and 25th we continued our progress to the southward, but
without any better success in approaching, or even getting sight of, the land ;
the ice being as close and compact as when we sailed along the margin of it

296

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. in July of the preceding year. Soon after noon on the 24th, we crossed the
Arctic Circle, having been within it fourteen months and three weeks ; and at

24&25. noon on the 25th had reached the latitude of 66° 13' 14", being two miles and
three-quarters to the southward of the dead reckoning, which difference had
occurred on each of the twelve preceding days.

Tues. 26, On the morning of the 26th we again stood to the westward as much as the
ice would allow, but were soon obliged by it to keep away to the southward,
precluding every hope of making the land on that part of the coast which it would
have been most interesting to have explored. At noon we were in latitude
65° 41' 09", and longitude, by chronometer, 59° 09' 54". In the afternoon,
after various attempts to get to the westward, appearances became more
unpromising than ever, the packed ice extending from N.b.E. round to
S.W. There were, indeed, parts of this ice which, with constant day-light,
a ship might have entered with some probability of success ; but, with
twelve hours’ night, the attempt must have been attended with a degree
of risk, which nothing but a very important object could justify. The wind
had now freshened up from the N.N.'W., and the mercury in the barometer
fell with unusual rapidity, with every other appearance of an approaching
gale. I was, therefore, under the necessity of admitting the conclusion that,
under existing circumstances, the season was now too far advanced, and the
state of the ice too unfavourable to allow of any further examination of the
coast ; and I determined, therefore, to make the best of my way to England.
The boats were accordingly hoisted in, and the ships made snug, while in
smooth water, under the lee of the ice, and a course was then shaped to
the E.S.E., in order to obtain an offing, before we bore away to the
southward.

Having now finally taken leave of the ice, it may be proper to offer
a few brief remarks as to the probable existence and accomplishment of a
North-West Passage into the Pacific Ocean. Of the existence of such a
passage, and that the outlet will be found at Behring’s Strait, it is scarcely
possible, on an inspection of the map, with the addition of our late dis-
coveries, and in conjunction with those of Cook and Mackenzie, any longer
to entertain a reasonable doubt. In discovering one outlet from Baffin’s Bay
into the Polar Sea, and finding that sea studded with numerous islands,

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

297

another link has at least been added to the chain of evidence upon which
geographers have long ventured to delineate the northern coast of America,
by a dotted line from Icy Cape westward, to the rivers of Mackenzie and
Hearne, and thence to the known part of the coast to the north of Hudson’s
Bay, in the neighbourhood of Wager River ; while, at the same time, con-
siderable progress has been made towards the actual accomplishment , of
the desired passage, which has for nearly three centuries engaged the atterf-
tion of the maritime nations of Europe.

The success which attended our efforts during the season of 1819, after
passing through Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, was such as to inspire even
the least sanguine among us with a reasonable hope of the complete accom-
plishment of our enterprise, before the close of the next season. In enter-
taining such a hope, however, we had not rightly calculated on the severity
of the climate with which we had to contend, and on the consequent short-
ness of the season, (not exceeding seven weeks), in which it is possible
to perform the navigation of tliat part of the Polar Sea. Although it
must be admitted, that there is something peculiar about the south-west
end of Melville Island, extremely unfavourable to navigation, yet it is also
certain, that the obstructions we met with from ice, both as to its thickness
and extent, were found generally to increase, as we proceeded westward,
after passing through Barrow’s Strait. That we should find this to be
the case, might perhaps have been reasonably anticipated, because the
proximity to a permanently-open sea appears to be the circumstance which,
of all others, tends the most to temper the severity of the Polar regions, in
any giv^n parallel of latitude. On this account I should always expect to meet
with the most serious impediments about mid- way, between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans ; and having once passed that barrier, I should as confidently
hope to find the difficulties lessen in proportion as we advanced towards the
latter sea ; especially as it is well known, that the climate of any given
parallel on that side of America is, no matter from what cause, very many de-
grees more temperate than on the eastern coast.

But, although it is evident, that climate does not wholly depend on
latitude, but on other circumstances also, (principally, perhaps, those of
locality above-mentioned,) yet it can scarcely be doubted that, on any
meridian to the north of America, for instance, 114° west where we were
stopped, the general climate would be found somewhat better, and the na-
vigable season longer, in the latitude of 69° than in that of 75°, near which

2Q

1820.

Sept.

298

VOYAGE FOE THE DISCOVERY

1820.

Sept.

we wintered. For this reason, it would perhaps be desirable, that Ships en-
deavouring to reach the Pacific by this route, should keep, if possible, on the
coast of America, and the lower in latitude that coast may be found, the
more favourable will it prove for this purpose.

Our experience, I think, has clearly shewn that the navigation of the Polar
Seas can never be performed with any degree of certainty, without a continuity
of land. It was only by watching the occasional openings between the ice
and the shore, that our late progress to the westward was effected ; and
had the land continued in the desired direction, there can be no question
that we should have continued to advance, however slowly, towards the
completion of our enterprise. In this respect, therefore, as well as in the
improvement to be expected in the climate, there would be a manifest
advantage in making the attempt on the coast of America, where we are sure
that the land will not fail us. The probability of obtaining occasional sup-
plies of wood, game, and anti-scorbutic plants ; the chance of being enabled
to send information by means of the natives,; and the comparative facility with
which the lives of the people might be saved, in case of serious and irre-
parable accidents happening to the ships, are also important considerations,
which naturally serve to recommend this route. Should the sea on the coast
of America be found moderately deep, and shelving towards the shore,
(which, from the geological character of the known parts of the continent to
the south, and of the Georgian Islands to the north, there is reason to believe
would be the case for a considerable distance to the westward), the facility
of navigation would be much increased, on account of the grounding of the
heavy masses of ice in water sufficiently deep to allow the ships to take shelter
behind them, at such times as the floes close in upon the land. Farther to the
westward, where the primitive formation, and perhaps even a continuation
of the Rocky Mountains, is to be expected, a steep and precipitous shore
would probably occur, a circumstance which the foregoing narrative has shewn
to be attended with much comparative uncertainty and risk.

The question which naturally arises, in the next place, relates to the most
likely means of getting to the coast of America, so as to sail along its shores.
It would, in this respect, be desirable to find an outlet from the Atlantic into
the Polar Sea, as nearly as possible in the parallel of latitude in which the
northern coast of America may be supposed to lie ; as, however, we do
not know of any such outlet from Baffin’s Bay, about the parallels of 69
to 70°, the attempt is, perhaps, to be made with better chance of success in a

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

299

still lower latitude, especially as there is a considerable portion of coast that 1820.
may reasonably be supposed to offer the desired communication, which yet
remains unexplored. Cumberland Strait, the passage called Sir Thomas
Kowe’s Welcome, lying between Southampton Island and the coast of
America, and Repulse Bay, appear to be the points most worthy of attention ;
and, considering the state of uncertainty in which the attempts of former
navigators have left us, with regard to the extent and communication of these
openings, one cannot but entertain a reasonable hope, that one, or perhaps
each of them, may afford a practicable passage into the Polar Sea.

So little indeed is known of the whole of the northern shore of Hudson’s
Strait, which appears, from the best information, to consist chiefly of islands,
that the geography of that part of the world may be considered altogether
undetermined ; so that an Expedition which should be sent to examine
those parts, would soon arrive upon ground never before visited, and in
which, from an inspection of the map in its present state, there certainly
does seem more than an equal chance of finding the desired passage. It
must be admitted, however, that any notions we may form upon this
question, amount after all to no more than conjecture. As far as regards
the discovery of another outlet into the Polar Sea, to the southward oi Sir
James Lancaster’s Sound, it is evident that the enterprise is to be begun
again ; and we should be cautious, therefore, in entertaining too sanguine a
hope of finding such a passage, the existence of which is still nearly as un-
certain as it was two hundred years ago, and which possibly may not
exist at all.

In the course of the foregoing narrative, it may have been remarked, that
the westerly and north-westerly winds were always found to produce the
effect of clearing the southern shores of the North Georgian islands of ice,
while they always brought with them clear weather, which is essentially
necessary in prosecuting discoveries in such a navigation. This circum-
stance, together with the fact of our having sailed back in six days from the
meridian of Winter Harbour to the entrance of Sir James Lancaster’s Sound,
a distance which it required five weeks to traverse when going in the oppo-
site direction, seems to offer a reasonable ground for concluding, that an
attempt to effect the north-west passage might be made, with a better chance
of success, from Behring’s Strait, than from this side of America. There are
some circumstances, however, which, in my opinion, render this mode of
proceeding altogether impracticable, at least for British ships. The principal

2 Q 2

300

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY •

1820.

Sept.

of these arises from the length of the voyage which must first be performed,
in order to arrive at the point where the work is to be begun. After such
a voyage, admitting that no serious wear and tear have been experienced,
the most important part of a ship’s resources, namely, the provisions and fuel,
must be very materially reduced, and this without the possibility of renew-
ing them to the extent necessary for such a service, and which can alone
give confidence in the performance of an enterprise of which the nature is so
precarious and uncertain.

Nor should it be forgotten how injurious to the health of the crews, so sudden
and extreme a change of climate would in all probability prove, as that
which they must necessarily experience in going at once from the heat of the
torrid zone into the intense cold of a long winter upon the northern shores
of America. Upon the whole, therefore, I cannot but consider that any ex-
pedition, equipped by Great Britain with this view, will act with greater
advantage, by at once employing its best energies in the attempt to pene-
trate from the eastern coast of America, along its northern shore.

Whatever may be the result of any future attempt to decide this great
geographical question, experience has shewn that, independently of any
benefit which science may derive from such attempts, those already made
have not been altogether without their use also in a commercial point
of view. Previously to the return of the Expedition of 1818 from Baffin’s
Bay, the whale-fishery in that sea was almost entirely confined, during the
best part of the summer-season, to the eastern or Greenland shores, where,
at no very distant period, the number of whales was found sufficient to afford
abundant employment for the numerous fleet of ships which are annually em-
ployed in this trade. For some years past, however, it has been observed,
that it requires a much greater share of exertion than formerly, to procure the
same supply of whales, these animals having been scared from South-East
and North-East Bays, and the other southern parts of the coast of Greenland,
which only a few years ago were considered a sure and abundant fishery, and
retired to the northern and western parts of Baffin’s Bay, where they have
hitherto been but little molested. Such, indeed, is the general want of success
on the old ground, that it is a common complaint among our whalers, that
this fishery appears to be well nigh worn out. Above forty sail of ships
accompanied the Expedition of 1818 up the coast of Greenland, nearly as
high as the latitude of 76°, where the whales were found to be so abundant,
as amply to repay the labour and exertions, by which our fishermen had sue-

301

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ceeded in penetrating thus far through more than ordinary obstructions from 1820.
ice. Encouraged by this success, and by the knowledge of our having subse-
quently crossed to the western coast of Baffin’s Bay without much dif-
ficulty, the whalers began to extend their views beyond what had formerly
been considered the utmost limits of the fishery, and accordingly in 1819,
succeeded in penetrating the barrier of ice which occupies the centre of
Baffin’s Bay, and for the first time sailed over into Sir James Lancaster’s
Sound, and some of the other bays and inlets upon the same coast. In the
course of that year’s navigation, no less than fourteen ships were wrecked among
the ice, but fortunately only one or two lives were lost. Not discouraged,
however, by this disaster, the enterprising spirit of our fishermen led them,
again, in 1820, to make the attempt to range over the whole of the northern
and western parts of the bay in quest of whales. Such was the well-earned
success which attended their efforts, that, in the course of that season,
scarcely a nook or corner of this extensive bay remained un visited by them.

Mr. Bell in the Friendship, of Hull, whom I have before had occasion to
mention, and one or two other of the ships sailed up to its very northern-
most limits, entered Whale Sound, and were close off the entrance of Sir
Thomas Smith’s Sound ; an exploit which has never before been performed since
Baffin first discovered these inlets, above two hundred years ago. It has
been seen, in the course of the foregoing narrative, in what situation we met
with several of the ships on our return down the western coast in the autumn
of 1820. The success which they met with on this occasion was such as has
seldom occurred in the Davis’ Strait fishery in any former season ; and thus
has a new and extensive field been opened for one of the most lucra-
tive branches of our commerce, and, what is of scarcely less importance,
one of the most valuable nurseries for seamen which Great Britain pos-
sesses. Nothing, indeed, can exceed the bold and enterprising spirit dis-
played by our fishennen in the capture of the whale. At whatever
time of night or day, a whale is announced by the look-out man in
the crow’s-nest, the men instantly jump into the boats, frequently with
their clothes in their hand, and with an alacrity scarcely equalled even
in the most highly-disciplined fleet, push on in pursuit of the whale, regard-
less of cold and wet, and hunger, for hours, and sometimes days together.

Nor is it solely on occasions where their immediate interest is concerned,
that this activity is displayed by them. It happened, on the voyage of
1818, that in endeavouring to pass between the land and a body of ice

302

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. which was rapidly closing the shore, the Alexander, then under my com-
mand, touched the ground just at the critical moment when it was necessary
to push through the narrow and uncertain passage. It being nearly calm,
the boats were sent a-head to tow, but the little way which they could give
the ship was not sufficient to have rescued us in time from the approaching
danger, and nothing less than the wreck of the ship was every moment to
be expected. Several sail of whalers were following astern ; but seeing the
dangerous situation in which the Alexander was placed, and the impossibility
of getting through themselves, they instantly put about into the clear water
which we had just left, and, before we had time to ask for assistance, no
less than fourteen boats, many of them with the masters of the ships them-
selves attending in them, placed themselves promptly a-head of the Alex-
ander, and by dint of the greatest exertion towed her off into clear water, at
the rate of three or four miles an hour, not one minute too soon to prevent
the catastrophe we had anticipated.

The opening of a new whale-fishery on the western coast of Baffin’s Bay,
which constitutes an important era in the history of that trade, and for which
the country is indebted to the researches of the expedition of 1818, under
the command of Captain Ross, will, perhaps, render expedient a new mode
of proceeding in the annual visits of our ships to this part of the Polar
regions. It has hitherto been customary for a certain number of those
intended for the Davis’ Strait fishery, to occupy the early part of the season in
what is called “ the south-west,” which is that part of the sea immediately
to the eastward of Resolution Island, and in that neighbourhood. The ships
frequently appear on this ground as early as the first of April, when the
nights are long, the weather extremely cold and inclement, and with a
heavy sea occasionally rolling in upon them from the Atlantic, making this,
perhaps, upon the whole, the most severe fishery which is any where used
by our whalers. They generally remain upon this coast, as near as the ice
will permit them, till about the first or second week in June, not without
considerable wear and tear to the ships, and the most harassing fatigue to
the men, but seldom with a proportionate degree of success to repay their
toil. After this, they strike over to the eastern or Greenland side, and
prosecute the fishery on that coast in the usual way. I cannot but consider,
that this “ south-west” fishery might now be advantageously dispensed with
altogether, and the expense of wages, provisions, and wear and tear, for the
months of April, May, and June, entirely saved to the owners, or employed

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

303

in some more beneficial manner. By entering Davis’ Strait no earlier than 1 820,
the first week in July, I feel confident, that a ship may ensure a “ payable”
cargo of fish before the end of the season, without incurring half the anxiety
or risk which must always attend the navigation of that sea at an earlier
period of the season. By doing this, a ship may, as I have before had
occasion to remark, perhaps, reach the latitude of 73° or 74°, about the
20th or 25th of July, with very little obstruction from ice. In the course
of this passage, it is, indeed, more than probable, that not a single
whale will be met with, even though the ship should keep the whole way
along the eastern margin of the ice. Not discouraged, however, by this
circumstance, let her, on her arrival about the parallel of 73°, boldly enter
the ice wherever it seems the most promising for getting through it to the
western coast. In adopting this measure, there is doubtless much risk to
encounter, but not more than in pushing on to the northward into Prince
Regent’s Bay, where, from the peculiar conformation of the land, which is
extremely favourable for the retention of the ice, a serious obstruction may
always be expected.

In effecting a passage through the central barrier of ice in Baffin’s Bay,
it is possible that one, two, or, in some seasons, even three weeks may be
occupied; while in others, as in the year 1820, nothing but “ sailing ice”
may be found in a high latitude, through which a ship makes her way
without difficulty. Having once effected this passage, however, there will,

I apprehend, be still more than sufficient time for the accomplishment of
their object, except in very unfavourable seasons, for We have the experience
of three following years for asserting that an open sea will be found at that
period to the westward, while the number of whales which we met with
on that side of the bay seems likely to ensure to them, at least for some
time to come, an easy and abundant fishery. For this purpose, however, the
ships should be directed not to be in a hurry to leave the coast until the
latter end of September, that month being by far the best in the year for the
navigation of Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay, and consequently affording greater
facility, and much less risk, in the capture of whales. The apprehension
which has, I believe, been entertained by some of the ship-owners, of their
vessels being caught in the ice, so as to prevent their return, in consequence
of remaining too late, is, as far as I have had an opportunity of judging,
altogether without foundation, unless their stay be extended considerably
beyond the period I have mentioned.

304

VOYAGE FOE THE DISCOVERY

1820. How far the plan suggested above may be considered advantageous, as
regards a late or an early market for the oil, or whether more profit may
be expected by employing the ships in making a Baltic voyage, as is some-
times the case, after that from Davis’ Strait is completed, than is likely to
result from a full cargo of blubber at the end of the season, are circumstances
of which I am not competent to form a judgment, and which must be left to the
consideration of the ship-owners themselves. I shall only, therefore, add on
this subject, that it has been suggested to me by one of those gentlemen, that a
ship might, perhaps, be employed to great advantage, by occupying the
early part of the season (till the middle of June, for instance,) at Spitzbergen,
and then running down into Davis’ Strait, to complete her fishery in the
way I have proposed.

Wed, 27, We ran to the southward and eastward with a fresh and favourable breeze,
and without meeting with any ice after leaving its main body, except one or
two icebergs, and a few straggling pieces which, however, make it neces-
sary to be very cautious in running at night, especially when there is any
sea, the breaking of which cannot easily be distinguished from a mass of ice.
On some occasions, therefore, it was necessary to heave-to for a few hours
at night, a precaution which I should always recommend in the latter part of
the season, till a ship has passed well to the eastward of Cape Farewell. It
is remarked by the whalers, that they usually have a gale of wind to en-
counter off this headland in returning home from their fishery, which has
also occurred on the two occasions on which I have passed it at this
season. On the 30th of September, in the evening, there was every appear-
ance of unfavourable weather, and the ships were made snug before dark.
Soon after this, a gale came on from the northward and westward, which
October, continued to blow hard, with little intermission, during the 1st and 2d of
1.&2. October. The fall of the mercury in the barometer was, on this occasion,
very gradual, and scarcely such, perhaps, as to be considered a fair warning
of an approaching gale, being only from 29.49 at noon on the 30th, to
29,38 at. six P.M., and 29.31 at midnight. On the morning of the 2d, it
had fallen to 28.66, at which time the gale had been blowing hard for
more than twenty-four hours. The wind had somewhat moderated on the

I

ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla, at Sea,

during the Month of September, 1820.

Day

Temperature of A.ir
in shade.

Sea Water at the
surface.

Barometer.

Prevailing Winds.

Prevailing Weather.

Masi-

muiu.

Mini-

mum.

Mean.

Tempe-

rature.

Specific

Gravity.

Tempera-
ture when
weighed.

Maxi-

mum.

Mini-

mum.

Mean,

1

-h

O

3S

+

o

30

+

o

31.67

o

80.T

1 .0246

49

inches.

29.8S

inches.

29,75

inches.

29.802

N. Westerly.

Moderate breezes and cloudy.

2

33

31

31.62

32.4

1.0243

55

29.89

29.82

29.860

N.N.W.

Light breezes and cloudy.

3

. 38

32

33.92

33.9

1.0242

57

29.83

29.73

29.800

f N.W. ?

t Southerly.' 5

Ditto ditto.

4

86

31

33.54

33.7

1.0240

57

29.71

29.63

29.682

S.E.

Ditto ditto.

5

41

31

86.12

33.9

1.0233

43

29.69

29.63

29.655

f A.M. Westerly. ?

1 P.M. N.E. 5

Moderate and cloudy.

6

32 .

29

30.54

32.7

29.76

29.64

29.704

N.N.E.

Light breezes and cloudy, with snow.

7 ,

36

29

81.67

32.7

1.0228

53

29.73

29.62

29.670

w.s.w.

Light breezes and cloudy.

8

32

26

28.71

32.7

1.0223

54

29.61

29.56

29.580

South.

Ditto ditto.

9

34

27

31.37

32.2^

1.0227

51

29.76

29.59

29.695

W.S.W,

Light breezes and fine.

10

35

31

32.58 '

32

1.0236

51

29.81

29.73

29.775

S.W.

Strong breezes and squally.

11

35

30

32.67

31.5

1.0202

53

29.69

29.50

29.588

Southerly,

Light breezes and cloudy.

12

36

26

31.17

31.6

1.0174

60

29.52

29.47

29.500

Round the Compass.'

Light airs and fine clear weather.

13

33

29

31.29

31.5

1.0170

54

29.73

29.62

29.680

S.E.

Light breezes and cloudy.

14

35.5

30

31.96

31.5

1.0225

55

29.82

29.73

29.778

S.E. b. E.

Ditto ditto.

15

35

24

31.00

30

1.0243

54

29.74

29.59

29.665

S.S.E,

Moderate. Snow.

16

36

23

30.58

30.6

1.0243

55

29.72

29.50

29.622

E.S.E,

Light breezes and foggy.

17

36

28

31.46

30.5

1.0242

57

29.56

29.49

29.534

Westerly.

Light breezes and hazy.

18

32

26

29.21

30.5

1.0243

56

29.48

29.25

29.358

5 N.N.E. 7
t N.N.W. S

Ditto ditto.

19

33

28

31.12

30.9

1.0249

54

29.49

29.32

29.412

N. E. by E.

Light breezes and hazy. Snow.

20

31.5

29

30.12

32.1

1.0248

55

29.62

29.50

29.577

W.N.W,

Ditto ditto. ditto.

21

32

29

30.58

32.8

29.60

29.55

29.572

N.W.

f A.M. Moderate with snow. P.M. Light
( breezes and hazy with snow.

22

34

29

30.96

32.1

1.0255

49

29.67

29.55

29.565

Easterly.

Light breezes and cloudy.

23

34

30

31.42

31.7

1.0250

61

29.72

29.49

29.652

C -N.N.E, 1

1 Southerly. )

Light airs to fresh gales, cloudy.

24

36

30

32.50

32

1.0250

52

29.77

29.46

29.642

S.E, b.S.

Moderate and thick foggy weather.

25

35

30.5

32.67

33

1.0261

51

29.50

29.33

29.448

Southerly.

Moderate and foggy weather. Snow.

26

31

28

30.50

83.5

1.0254

50

29.35

29.05

29.228

C Calm. >

1 N. b. W. 5

Calm and hazy to strong gales and hazy.

27

32

30

31.29

36.2

1.0259

61

29.38

29.00

29.225

N.N.W.

Fresh gales and squally. Snow.

28

34

31

32.83

39.4

1.0266

52

29.56

29.44

29.500

N.W. b. W.

Moderate and cloudy.

29

38

32

34.83

40.8

29.66

29.57

29.618

N.W. b. W.

Fresh gales and squally to calm. Snow.

30

43

34

36.79

41.5

1.0273

54

29.49

29,31

29.417

N.E.

Light airs and cloudy to fresh gales and squally.

43

26

31.87

33.02

29.89

29.00

29.590

2R

306

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. 3d, when the barometer had fallen as low as 29.14'. In the gale which we
experienced off Cape Farewell in 1818, the barometer was also much lower
for two days after it had ceased to blow than while it lasted. During the
time that we were in the Polar Sea, and especially while we were frozen up in
Winter Harbour, we also remarked that a gale was accompanied, rather than
preceded, by a fall of the mercury in the barometer; in moderate weather,
it almost invariably rose with northerly and westerly winds, and fell with
those from the south and east.

Mon. 2. On the 2d of October, in scudding before the wind, under the main-top-
sail, a heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard quarter, rendering it
necessary to press her forward under more canvass, by which we lost sight
of the Griper in the course of the morning. As soon as the weather mode-
rated, we hoverto for her ; but, as she did not make her appearance, having,
as we afterwards learned, been obliged to lie-to during the height of the gale,
we continued our course out of the Straits, and did not again meet with the
Griper till our return to England. After ten P.M. this night, the Aurora
Borealis appeared at times in almost every part of the heavens, but most con-
stantly in the southern quarter. It consisted of no distinct figure, either arch or
pencils, but of a generally diffused white light, illuminating the atmosphere at
times quite as much as the moon when six or seven days old. This pheno-
menon occurred almost every night during our passage across the Atlantic,
rendering them extremely light, even when the weather was cloudy, just in
the same manner that the moon does although her disk is not visible. When
the weather was clear, it most frequently resembled the light of that luminary
when issuing from behind a dark cloud.

Tues. 3. On the 3d we observed a more brilliant display than usual of this pheno-
menon. It appeared at nine P.M. in various parts of the heavens, from E.N.E.,
round by south, to W. b. N., principally consisting at first of many detached
luminous patches like clouds, irregularly scattered about, and shifting fre-
quently, though not very rapidly, from place to place. From the W. b. N.
over to the S.S.E,, and passing a few degrees to the southward of the zenith,
there soon appeared a broad band of light, having a tendency to arch ; and the
light of which this consisted appeared to come from the west towards the east.
In the E.N.E. quarter, there was a luminous appearance distinct from the rest,
at about 15° or 20° of altitude, exactly resembling the light of the moon behind
a dusky cloud, except that at times vivid coruscations shot upwards from it
towards the zenith. At a quarter past ten the phenomenon suddenly became

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

307

much more brilliant, its general position and character remaining, however, 1820.
nearly as before. It still appeared chiefly to the southward of the zenith,
the arch-like appearance continuing with increased splendour, and accom-
panied for about a quarter of an hour by a beautifully waving light, of the
rapidity and magnificence of which it is impossible to convey any adequate idea.

The motion of this light reminded one of the contortions of a snake, except
that its velocity was often so great that the eye could with difficulty follow
it. The most intense part was of a pale greenish colour ; the rest nearly
white. The arch, which before had been stationary, at one time shifted its
position, by appearing, as it were, to turn up its legs so as to form a part of
a circle seen in perspective in the south, parallel to the horizon. The lumi-
nous patch, or cloud, in the E.N.E. increased also very much in brightness at
the same time, emitting more vivid coruscations, but continuing, as before, quite
distinct from the rest of the phenomenon. This Aurora, when brightest, gave
nearly as much light as that of a full moon. There could not be the smallest
doubt that it dimmed, and even sometimes altogether obscured, the stars over
which it passed. We particularly remarked, that wherever there was a broad
stream of its light stationary for some time in any part of the heavens, it pro-
duced exactly the effect of a curtain ; for we could only distinguish stars of
the first and second magnitudes through it, while those of inferior brilliancy
were visible in great numbers by the side of it. In this, as in several pre-
vious instances, the Aurora appeared very near us, though it was evidently
higher than some clouds which were passing, as might readily be distin-
guished by the latter intercepting a part of its light. The electrometer was tried
during the most brilliant part of the phenomenon, but neither on this or on any
other occasion, in crossing the Atlantic, did the gold leaf give any indication
of electricity ; nor was the magnetic needle in the slightest degree affected.

The arch-like appearance above described was not bisected by the magnetic
meridian, but by the magnetic N.E. and S.W. At a quarter before eleven the
light became less brilliant, and spread more to the northward, and then gra-
dually disappeared before midnight.

On the Ilth, being in lat. 61° 11', longitude 31° 12', some water brought Wed. ll.
up from a depth of three hundred and twenty fathoms, in Dr. Marcet’s bottle,
was at the temperature of 44°^, the surface water being at 47°|, and the
air 48°.

At seven P.M., on the 13th, the wind being squally from the N.N.W., Frid. 13.
the Aurora Borealis began to display itself in a bright luminous patch in

2 R 2

308

VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY

1820. the north-east, resembling, as usual, the light of the moon behind a
dark cloud. From this point faint and narrow coruscations shot upwards,
passing a little to the north-westward of the zenith, and appearing to come
down in the W.b.S. The blue sky between these streams of light,
looked at first like so many dark streaks or clouds, until the eye had
become accustomed to it, and the clearness of the stars in them explained
the deception. In half an hour after, a bright arch, 34° high in the
centre, and about 2° in breadth, extended from the luminous patch in
the N.E. over to the W.S.W^., so that the magnetic meridian would
nearly bisect it. This part of the phenomenon remained about an hour,
and then became faint, but the Aurora continued to give a considerable light,
as usual, during the rest of the night.

Sat. 14. The mercury in the barometer fell gradually, but very slowly from mid-
night on the 11th, (when it was at 30.34 inches), till nine A.M., on the 14th,
at which time it stood at 29.32 inches, and a hard gale of wind came on so
suddenly as scarcely to give us time to save the masts and yards. It is re-
markable that, immediately after this the mercury in the barometer rose to
29.36 inches, and continued so very steadily till nine P.M., when it once more
gradually descended till it had reached 28.83 on the morning of thelGth. The
gale continued to blow almost without intermission for four successive days.

Mon. 16. On the afternoon of the 16th, the sea being very high and irregular,
and the ship pitching with considerable violence, the bowsprit was carried
away close to the gammoning, and the foremast and main-top-mast im-
mediately followed it over the side. The wreck was quickly cleared ; and,
by the greatest activity and energy on the part of the officers and men, the
main-yard and mainmast were saved, the latter having been endangered by
the foremast falling across the stay, and the former by the wreck of the
main-top-mast and top-sail-yard lying upon it. Notwithstanding the con-
tinuance of the gale, and the uneasy motion of the ship for the next two
days, we succeeded in getting up our jury-masts, so as to make sail on the
evening of the 18th.

Thiir. 26. Nothing material occurred till the afternoon of the 26th, when we struck
soundings in seventy fathoms, on a bottom of coarse sand and broken shells,
being in latitude 59° 55', longitude 4° 17' west. The weather being calm,
some fishing-lines were put over, and several fine cod and torsk were caught,
being the first we had met with since leaving Fair Island, at the commence-

Frid. 27 ment of the voyage. On the following day, we made Foul Island, bearing

OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

309

S, 54i° E., distant eleven leagues. Previously to our parting company with the 1820.
Griper, I had given Lieutenant Liddon an order, in case of separation, to
repair to Lerwick in the Shetland Islands, and to wait a week there for my
arrival. On the morning of the 28th, however, being between Fair Island Sat. 28.
and the Orkneys at daylight, and the wind being fresh from the northward,

I determined to proceed at once to Leith, where the necessary repairs of the
Hecla’s masts and rigging would be more quickly and effectually completed,
previously to her venturing upon the English coast, and I should have an
earlier opportunity of repairing to London, agreeably to my Instructions,
to lay before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty a full account
of the voyage.

On the 29th we made Buchaness, and on the following day, the wind Sun. 29.
having come to the southward, so as to make our progress very slow, I landed
at Peterhead, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr. Hooper ; having first,
in compliance with their Lordships’ directions, demanded from the officers,
petty-officers, and all other persons on board the Hecla, the logs, journals,
charts, drawings, and other documents which the voyage had furnished, and
directed Lieutenant Beechey to proceed with all possible dispatch to Leith.

Having left Mr. Hooper at Leith, to report the Hecla’s arrival to Rear-
Admiral Otway, the commander-in-chief at that port, and to provide fresh
beef and vegetables for our people, Captain Sabine and myself proceeded
without delay to London, where we arrived on the morning of the 3d of
November.

Such was the excellent state of health which we at this time continued to
enjoy on board the Hecla, that, during the whole season of our late navi-
gation from Winter Harbour to the coast of Scotland, being a period of
thirteen weeks, not a single case had been entered on our sick-list, except
from one or two accidents of a trifling nature ; and I had the happiness of
seeing every officer and man on board both ships, (with only one exception
out of ninety-four persons), return to their native country in as robust
health as when they left it, after an absence of nearly eighteen months,
during which time we had been living entirely on our own resources.

310

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

1820.

The Griper arrived at Shetland on the 1st of November, and the Hecla at
Leith on the 3rd. Both ships came into the River Thames about the
middle of November, and were paid off at Deptford on the 21st of the
following month.

END OF THE NARRATIVE.

APPENDIX I

AN ACCOUNT OF THE GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS
OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER.

APPENDIX.

a

N? L

AN ACCOUNT OF THE GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS

OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER.

The number of chronometers embarked in the Expedition amounted
altogether to fourteen, whereof twelve were in boxes, and two for the pocket.

The proportion supplied by government was three box chronometers to
each ship, and a pocket watch additional for the Hecla.

The makers and distribution of the government watches were as follows,
viz. :

To the HECLA.

Parkinson and Frodsham’s No. 228

- 2109, a pocket chronometer.

Arnold’s

Arnold’s

Arnold’s

369

404, an eight-day chronometer.

Arnold’s

Arnold’s

Arnold’s

To the GRIPER.

497, an eight-day chronometer.

367

377

No. 228, of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, had been sent on trial in
the voyage of discovery to Baffin’s Bay in 1818, at the risk of its makers,
whose property it then was. A favourable report having been made on
return, of its going, the Admiralty were pleased to order its purchase for the
public service. In consequence of such encouragement, Messrs. Parkinson

a2

IV

APPENDIX.

and Frodsham determined on sending three chronometers on trial on the
present occasion ; accordingly their Nos. 253 and 254 were delivered to
Captain Sabine in the beginning of April, 1819, and No. 259 a few days
before the expedition sailed, being intrusted jointly to Captain Parry’s care
and his. No. 286, an eight-day chronometer of Messrs. Finer and Nowland,
was also placed in Captain Sabine’s charge, on a similar adventure. Arnold’s
No. 25, and 523, (the latter a pocket chronometer,) being both the property
of Henry Browne, Esq. F.R.S., were with Captain Sabine in this as in the
preceding voyage. These seven, the property of individuals, were all on
board the Hecla, making her total complement nine box, and two pocket
chronometers.

The box chronometers (with the exception of 286, for the first five weeks)
were suspended from the beams of the deck in the after-cabin, in canvass
cots lined with green baize. Steel springs had been furnished by
Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, to be attached, instead of beckets, to the
eyes of the cot-clews, with a view to take off the effect of Jars which the
ship might receive when navigating amongst ice ; but the springs giving way
in one or two instances, (fortunately, however, without injurious consequences,)
and the suspension by the eyes of the clews, or by very short beckets,
appearing in other respects preferable, the springs were removed. The
motion of some of the larger chronometers was checked by pulleys attached
to the sides of their cots.

An apparatus for suspending 286 had accompanied it from the makers,
devised by Mr. Jennings, patentee of the insulating compasses, and approved
by Messrs. Finer and Nowland. It consisted of a copper cylinder upwards
of a foot in length, and an inch and a half diameter, closed at the bottom,
and surmounted by a basin of sufficient capacity to receive the chronometer
box. The basin was suspended in gimbals by lanyards from the deck, and a
small quantity of mercury poured into the copper cylinder. To the bottom
of the chronometer box was affixed a cylindrical wooden leg of rather less
diameter than the copper tube, into which it entered, resting on the mercury,
and bearing the weight of the chronometer. In the first few days after the
ships had sailed, it was remarked that the motion, by this mode of
suspension, was more lively than by the cots, and that in heavy rolls the
chronometer box was brought in contact with the framework containing the
gimbals ; this latter inconvenience might have been remedied by pouring
more mercury into the cylinder, but at the expense of increasing the motion

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS.

V

already too great, inasmuch as it would have raised the chronometer still
higher above the level of suspension. Moreover, as 286 was going, so far as
could be judged by its daily comparison with the others, with remarkable
steadiness, no alteration was made. It continued to go equally well until
the afternoon of the 8th of June, when, the ship having considerable motion,
it stopped ; having been wound on the 6th, the index of the spring stood at
nearly two days and a half. It was then determined to remove it into a
cot similar to the others ; in which being placed it was set going on the 9th,
and was found to have again stopped at the noon comparison of the 10th.
A third attempt to keep it going was alike unsuccessful ; it was, therefore,
laid by for a time ; but, being again set in motion in the following month
(July), it continued to go, though not with the same regularity as in the first
month.

No. 523 was worn in the pocket generally, and 2109 occasionally during
the voyage.

The chronometers were wound up and compared each day at noon,
by Mr. Hooper and Capt. Sabine.

The six box chronometers supplied by the Admiralty, and three of those
which were individual property, were placed in Captain Sabine’s charge
in the beginning of April, 1819, being five weeks before the sailing of the
expedition ; this period was sufficient to form a judgment of the dependance
which might be placed on each chronometer, in maintaining a steady and
uniform rate from day to day ; it was also sufficient for the assignment
of such rates, as might serve the ordinary purposes of navigation, until
opportunities should present themselves on the voyage, of ascertaining the
rates which they should have actually taken up on board with the exactness
required on an occasion of discovery ; and it may be remarked, that no
length of previous trial can enable a conclusive inference to be drawn,
of the rates which may be subsequently maintained, on account of the
liability to alteration, which has been noticed in chronometers, of otherwise
the best reputation, on being removed from the shore to shipboard.

An account is given, in Table I., of the going of these nine chronometers,
during the five weeks of trial before their embarkation.

All the chronometers designed for the expedition having been collected
by the first week in May, they were embarked from Somerset House on
the seventh, the differences of each on mean Greenwich time, having been
carefully noted at the preceding midnight.

VI

APPENDIX.

The ships having arrived in Davis’ Strait, using the temporary rates
assumed from the five weeks of previous trial, a sufficient number of
lunar observations were obtained during the lunations of June and
August, to entitle the mean result to considerable confidence ; being-
in all 1,209 distances, whereof 640 were w'ith the sun west of the moon,
and 569 with the sun east of the moon ; the difference of each chronometer
was noted on the mean Greenwich time, thus determined, at noon of the
22d of July, being the middle day of the observations ; and these differences
being compared with those at midnight on the 6th of May, the gain or loss
of each chronometer in the interval of seventy- six days and a half became
known, and consequently their corrected daily rates on board ; the detail
of these comparisons will be found in a memorandum annexed to the
abstract of lunar observations in June and August, 1819.

The daily comparison of each chronometer with all the others, had also
served in this interval, to guide the selection of those which had gone most
steadily and uniformly, and had best preserved a mean rate, to be used
in the determination of longitudes; these were Nos. 228, 254, and 259
of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, 25, 369, and 404 of Arnold ; No. 228
was also chosen as the watch by which the time of all observations should
be noted, its rate being small and very uniform.

No other opportunity of lunar observation and consequent comparison
with Greenwich time occurred to any extent, until the ships were secured
for the winter, about the end of September, in a small harbour in Melville
Island, which had been passed early in the month, but to which they were
obliged to return; it had fortunately happened, that Captain Sabine had
landed on a low point within three miles of this harbour, when passing
it on the 6th of September, and had ascertained its longitude by the six
chronometers above-mentioned ; this point was sufficiently near to be
included in a very careful survey of the harbour and adjacent coast, made
by Captain Parry in the spring ensuing, whereby the bearing and distance
of the point from the ship’s winter station was correctly determined, and
its chronometrical longitude thereby brought in comparison with its true
longitude, deduced by a mean of 6,862 lunar distances observed during
the winter, and carried to the point of land by means of the survey.

The detail of this comparison will also be found in the memorandum
alluded to ; the error of the chronometrical longitude, using the corrected
rates ascertained by means of the lunars of June and August, proved in

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS.

Vll

distance less than a geographical mile ; an amount so trivial, that it was
hot deemed necessary to pursue its further consideration ; and rates, which
at the expiration of four months, had produced so very close an accordance
with the result of so great a number of lunar observations, were judged
to require no further correction.

The navigation of 1819 may be considered to have closed on the 6th
of September, so far as the going of the chronometers is concerned, since
the coast, to the westward of Winter Harbour, was laid down entirely by
longitudes determined in the summer of 1820.

In Table 11. is exhibited an account of the going of the six chronometers
of the Hecla which were selected for the determination of longitude, from
the commencement of the voyage to the close of the navigation of 1819.
The actual daily rate of each chronometer, averaged in weeks, is shewn
successively on every one of the other five.

In Table III. is shewn the daily rate (also on a weekly average, and for the
same period) of the remaining chronometers of the Hecla’s complement, on
mean Greenwich time, as shewn each day at noon by No. 259, with its correc-
tion applied for rate and original difference. No. 259 has been selected for this
purpose, because it is believed to have preserved the most steady and uniform
rate throughout the season ; the ground of this belief is, that its daily longi-
tudes with the same unchanged rate, were not found to differ from the mean
longitude of the six chronometers, so much as two minutes in a single instance
during the four months, and but very rarely so much as one minute ; this fact
may be examined by a reference to the Table, closing the abstract of latitudes
and longitudes determined in 1819, in which the daily longitude by each
chronometer separately is shewn, as well as by their mean. It is considered
to afford a presumption of very remarkable steadiness.

Table IV. contains a statement of the going of the chronometers on mean
time at Winter Harbour, from the end of September 1819, to. the end
of April 1820.

During the severest months of the winter, the chronometers were
suspended within five feet of the cabin stove, where they received as much
advantage as could conveniently be given them from the moderate fire,
which the necessary attention to economy of fuel permitted to be kept up.

Vlll

APPENDIX.

The extremes of temperature of each day were noted by a self-registering
thermometer suspended amongst them; the Table shews the highest and
lowest degrees, as well as the mean temperature of each week ; the latter
being the mean of the daily extremes divided by fourteen.

The occasional stoppage of some of the chronometers, aud the irregularity
of others shew, that notwithstanding the precautions which were adopted,
the cold which was experienced was greater than they had been prepared to
meet.

No. 25 was the soonest affected, stopping, (on two occasions) at about
15° Fahrenheit; the compensation of this watch was also faulty, as its rate
varied exceedingly with changes in the temperature. The stoppages were
conjectured to be owing to the congealment of the oil. No. 369 stopped at 10°,
and 404 at 6° of the thermometer scale. It is also presumed, that No. 369
was nearly stopped in the third week of November, when at the temperature
of 15°, it lost in one day 47 seconds, and in the next above a minute, effects
too considerable in a usually very steady going watch, to have been caused
by defect in compensation.

The chronometers of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham appear to have
been far better prepared for the peculiar service on which they were
employed, than any other of the box chronometers ; no instance occurred
of any one of them being stopped by the cold. The rate of 228 experienced,
indeed, considerable alteration in the three weeks of severest exposure in
February and March ; 254 and 259 were affected, but in a much less degree,
whilst the compensation of 253 could scarcely have been better.

Mr. Arnold’s pocket chronometers, 2109 and 523, underwent severer trials
in the course of the winter, from natural cold, than it is probable chronome-
ters were ever subjected to before, having been used in lunar observations fre-
quently for three and four hours together, at temperatures from — 20° to —40°,
and even so low as — 45°. There was certainly a limit of exposure (in degree
and continuance) beyond which neither of these watches would go, as 2109
stopped on two occasions, and 523 once, as noted in the Table ; (it is likely
also that 523 was about to stop on the 29th of November, when on being
taken into the cabin, it was found to have lost 43 seconds on a chronometer
with which it had been compared but a few minutes before.) But this limit
was at a very low temperature continued for a considerable time, and when
the cold was not sufficient to cause their stoppage, its effect on their usual
rate was very small; this was especially the case with 2109, in which

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS.

IX

respect, as well as in the steadiness of its daily rate, this watch proved
a very great acquisition.

The stoppage of the chronometers during observations was prevented after
the experience on the above-mentioned occasions, by placing them on tin
cases, filled with moderately-heated sand, which was renewed as occasion
required.

No. 404 stOppihg from some unknown cause, on the 22d of March, it was
laid aside during the remainder of the voyage.

Early in May, the chronometers of the Griper were sent on board the
Hecla, for the purpose of having their rates examined previously to the
sailing of the expedition from Winter Harbour.

Table V. contains an account of the going of seven chronometers of the
Hecla, and three of the Griper on mean time, from the eighth of May to the
end of July, being the twelve weeks preceding the commencement of the
navigation in 1820.

No. 369 is omitted in this Table ; when taken down to be wound on the
13th of June, it was found to have stopped at four turns of the chain, six
and a half being equal to twenty-four hours ; there appearing no particular
cause for the stoppage, it was again set going, but stopped after having gone
about two hours ; the same took place on a third trial, when it was laid aside.
It was probably injured by the winter’s cold, as it never took up a steady
rate after its stoppage in February. The attempt to keep it going was
renewed in September, but proved as unsuccessful as in June, after which
it was reserved for the examination of the maker.

On due examination of the going of the chronometers at Melville Island,
exhibited in Table V., it was apparent, that of those which belonged to the
Hecla, the four of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, were principally to
be relied on in the determination of longitudes in the ensuing season.

The opportunities of lunar observation during the navigation of 1820 were
few, and under circumstances by no means favourable ; in consequence,
an occasion did not present itself of comparison with Greenwich time,
between the departure of the ships from Winter Harbour, and the arrival
of the Hecla at Leith on the 12th of November ; on which day, the difference
of each chronometer on Greenwich time, was ascertained by direct com-
parison with the Observatory clock at Calton Hill.

b

X

APPENDIX.

The following statement will shew the degree of correctness with which
these four chronometers had maintained their respective rates, deduced
from their going in the last three months at Winter Harbour ; the same
which are specified in Table V., under the title of “ Average daily
ratco.^’

The difference of each chronumcter, DA mean, o]t)servatory time at Winter
Harbour, is given in Table V. ; the observatory time was 5 .3 slow of
mean time at the Hecla’s winter station, as deduced from the bearing and
measured distance ; the difference of the meridians of Greenwich and of
the Hecla’s station, was 7'\ 23™. 14®. the longitude of the latter being
1 10° 48' 30" west ; these data give the differences of the chronometers
on Greenwich time on the 31st of July, as follows : —

h. m. s.

228 slow

3

15

06.3

253 —

1

29

49.2

254 —

0

17

07.4

259 —

0

47

25.

By applying to each chronometer the allowance for its rate in 104 days,
agreeably to the average daily rates in Table V., and adding 11™. 22.5". to
No. 253, in compensation of an accidental stoppage to that amount on the
3d of September'^, the differences of the chronometers on Greenwich time
on the I2th of November, conformably to the rates, are as follows: —

li. ra. 3.

228 slow

3

05

00.3

253 —

2

29

06.18

254 —

0

20

33.32

259 —

0

45

13.

6

39

50.8

* Mr. Hooper and Captain Sabine having accompanied Captain Parry on shore on the west coast
of Davis’ Strait on this day, their return to the Hecla was delayed by unforeseen circumstances
until between five and six hours beyond the usual time of winding the chronometers. Fortunately
253 was the only one which had gone down ; being wound up and set in motion, it was com-
pared with the other chronometers, and due allowance having been made for its rate since the
comparison at noon of the preceding day, it was found to have been stopped for 11m. 25.5 s.,
which loss is accordingly brought into the account.

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS.

XI

Their actual differences, ascertained by comparison at the observatory
at Calton Hill, were,

h. m. s.

228 slow

3

04

05.03

253 —

2

29

40.48

254 —

0

21

22.68

259 —

0

44

35.35

6

39

43.54

The difference being divided by 4, (the number of the chronometers) gives
1®.815 fast, as the error of the Greenwich time shewn by the chrono-
meters at the end of 104 days, on being allowed the average daily rates
at which they had gone for the three months preceding the period.

The longitude of the western parts of Melville Island, and of a con-
siderable portion of the western coast of Baffin’s Bay, and Davis’ Strait,
which were surveyed in the season of 1820, have been accordingly determined
by the mean of these four chronometers, using the above-mentioned rates.

Table VI. exhibits the daily rate of these chronometers, and of No. 2109,
each successively on the other four, averaged in weeks, from the com-
mencement to the close of the navigation of 1820.

The ships having arrived at Deptford, the chronometers were delivered
on the 1st of December, to steady persons sent by their makers to receive
them.

Table VII. contains a statement of their daily going on time since their
return to London ; the materials of this statement have been furnished by
the makers, who had not received any intimation of the previous rates.

Admirably as these chronometers have fulfilled the purposes for which
they were employed, it is an additional satisfaction to find, that, notwith-
standing the change of circumstances attendant on their disembarkation,
and replacement in their makers’ care, they are still maintaining almost
without exception, their Melville Island rates.

Nos. 369 and 404, which had stopped in the winter at Melville Island,
without any apparent cause, and had been reserved for Mr. Arnold’s ex-

Xll

APPENDIX.

animation, have been taken to pieces since their return ; Mr. Arnold states,
that he found the main springs of both the watches broken ; accidents which
may have arisen from a flaw in the steel, or simply from the severity of the
cold, as experience has shewn, that more main springs break in frosty
weather, than at other seasons.

No. 286 has also been examined by Messrs. Finer and Nowland; the
cause of its stoppage and subsequent irregularity, is discovered to have
been the rusting of a spring connected with the teeth of the index wheel,
which shews the number of days passed since the chronometer was wound.
The introduction of this wheel, which, with ordinary attention, is not required,
is particularly to be regretted on the present occasion, as from the very
steady going of this watch before the accident took place, there appeared
every prospect of its doing great credit to its makers.

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the undermentioned CHRONOMETERS, on Mean Greenwich Time, during a Trial of Five Weeks, in London,

previous to their embarkation.

Cu

<

o

u

j=i

o

E

o

a

3

2

o

G

<

iZ

§

a

O

xiii

XIV

TABL

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the Six CHRONOMETERS selected for the determination of Longitudes, fro

Week being shewn of each Chronomet

IVcek

2*28 with

254 with

259 with 1

ending

254.

259

369

401.

25

228

259

369

404

25

228

254

369

404

25

1

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

S t

May 13

G0.6T

G2.77

GO.923

L4.96

L7.46

L0.61

G2.16

Go.313

L5.57

L8.07

L2.77

L2.16

L 1 .747

L7.73

LlO.ij

20

Ll.

3.3

0.86

5.93

9-

Gl.

4.3

1.86

4.93

8.

3.3

4.3

2.44

9-23

12.3

27

0.93

2.93

0.57

4.86

9.536

0.93

3.86

1.4

3.93

8.606

2.93

3.86

2.36

7.79

12.4(|

June 3

1.

2.36

2.036

4.464

10.43

1.

3.36

3.036

3.464

9.43'

2.36

3.36

0.324

6.826

12.7! t

' J

10

0.034

2.8

3.107

3.14

10.61

0.034

2.834

3.141

3.114

10.576

2.8

2.834

GO.307

5.94

13.4]

17

G3.11

3.14

2.32

2.57

12.68

L3.11

0.03

L0.79

5.68

15.79

3.14

0.03

LO.82

5.71

15.8j;,

24

4.14

2.7

LO.14

1.535

11.32

4.14

L 1 ,44i

4.58

5.675

15.46

2.7

GI.44

2.84

4.235

14.0j||

July 1

3.7

3.5

0.14

1.07

11. 43

3.7

0.2

3.84

4.77

15.13

3.5

0.2

3.64

4.57

14.9j||

8

3.463

3.68

Go. 14

0.714

10.8

3.465

GO.215

3.325

4.179

14.265

3.68

LO.215

3,54

4.394

14.4 i

15

3.607

4,25

0.714

GO.036

9.964

3.607

0.643

2.893

3.571

13.571

4.25

0.643

, 3,536

4.214

14.2|

22

3.57

4.214

0.357

0.036

9.57

3.57

0.844

3.213

3.534

13.14

4.214

0.844

3.857

4.178

13.7

29

3.07

4.5

0.286

0.107

8.82

3.07

1.43

2.784

2.963

11.89

4.5

1.43

3.214

4.393

13.3|

Aug, 5

3,286

4.393

LO.357

0.18

5.18

3.286

1.107

3.643

3.106

8.466

4.393

1.107

4.75

4.213

d-m

12

2.536

4.36

0.57

0.

7.536

2.536

1.824

3.106

2.536

10.072

4.36

1.824

4.93

4.36

1 '

11.8] 1

19

3.036

4.464

0.75

0.43

7.82

3.036

1.428

3.786

2.606

10.856

4.464

1.428

5.214

4.034

12.2N

1

1 26

3.716

4.93

0.536

1.893

5.5

3.716

1.214

4.252

1.823

9-216

4.93

1.214

5.466

3.037

10.4|i|

Sept. 2

3.536

5.93

0.18

2.

4.036

3.536

2.394

3.716

1.536

7.572

5.93

2.394

6.11

3.93

9.9|iJ

9

5.07

6.643

G 1 .036

2.5

3.18

5.07

1.573

4.034

2.57

8.25

6.643

1.573

5.607

4.143

9-»|

The “ Daily Rates” which are here given, are the actual daily differences of each Chronometer on the others, as shewn iij
reference is made. A Table of this nature much facilitates the regulation of Chronometers, by bringing into a small compa
It will also generally shew the week in which any Chronometer may change its established rate ; and as this sometimes happ|^ij
on the mean Longitude, which requires to be met by a special correction, this Table serves to fix the periods, and regulate

iro. ii

XV

l|; commencement yf the Voyage to the close of the season of Navigation of 1819 ; the average Daily Rate in each
Successively on the other five.

— ■ ' ' '

' 369 with

!,

404( with

25 with

Temperature, |

figs

254^

259

404.

25

228

254

259

369

25

228

254.

259

369

404

t

mum.

i

Maxi>

mum.

Mean. 3

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

s

0

0

1

0

11923

L0.313

G 1.747

CO

CO

L8.383

G4.96

G5.57

G7.73

G5.886

L2.5

G7.46

G8.07

GIO.23

G8.383

G2.5

186

1.86

2.44

6.79

9.S6

5.93

4.93

9.23

6.79

3.57

9.

8.

12.3

9.86

3.07

f».57

1.4

2.36

5.43

10.106

4.86

3.93

7.79

5.43

4.676

9.536

8.606

12.466

10.106

4.676

jl.036

3.036

0.324

6.5

12.466

4.464

3.464

6.826

6.5

5,966

10.43

9.43

12.79

12.466

5.966

ho7

3.141

LO.307

6.247

13.717

3.14

3.114

5.94

6.247

7.47

10.61

10.576

13.41

13.717

7.47

45

55

49.5

.32

GO.79

GO.82

4.89

15.

2.57

5.68

5.71

4.89

10.11

12.68

15.79

15.82

15.

10.11

45

65

54.5

1 .14

4.58

2.84

1.395

11.18

1.535

5.675

4.235

1.395

9.785

11.32

15.46

14.02

1 1.18

9.785

49

68

37.5

|;.i4

3.84

3.64

0.93

11.29

1.07

4.77

4.57

0.93

10.36

11.43

15.13

14.93

11.29

10.36

46

68

58.7

p4

3.325

3.54

0.854

10.94

0.714

4.179

4.394

0.854

10.086

10.8

14.265

14.48

10.94

10.086

45

64

60

|l714

3.893

3.536

GO.678

10.678

L 0.036

3.571

4.214

0.678

10.

9-964

13.571

14.214

10.678

10.

49

66

56.5

,357

3.213

3.857

0.321

9.927

0.036

3.534

4.178

0.321

9.606

9.57

13.14

13.784

9.927

9.606

45

66

57

i.286

2.784

3.214

0.179

9.106

0.107

2.963

4.393

0.179

8.927

8.82

11.89

13.32

9.106

8.927

52

66

58.7

G357

3.643

4.75

0.537

4.823

0.18

3.106

4.213

L 0.537

5.36

5.18

8.466

■ 9.573

4.823

5.36

50

66

57.5

■57

3.106

4.93

0.57

6.966

0.

2.536

4.36

0.57

7.536

7.536

10.072

1.896

6.966

7.536

46

6 8

58

175

3.786

5.214

1.18

7.07

0.43

2.606

4.034

1.18

8.25

7.82

10.856

12.284

7.07

8.25

50

65

58

i536

4.252

5.466

2.429

4.964

1.893

1.823

3.037

2.429

7.393

5.5

9.216

10.43

4.964

7.393

40

70

57

:i8

11

3.716

6.11

2.18

3.856

2.

1.536

3.93

2.18

6.036

4.036

7.572

9.966

3.856

6.036

50

69

58.5

b 036

u

4.034

5.607

1.464

4.216

2.5

2.57

4.143

1.464

5.68

3.18

8.25

9-823

4.216

5.68

48

70

58

'h^: comparison each day at noon ; being wholly unconnected with the respective corrections to Mean Greenwich time, to which no
in' in one view, the means whereby their absolute as well as relative uniformity and steadiness of going may be estimated.
ro or three (where several are concerned), in the intervals between comparisons with known time, and as each change has an influence
unt of such corrections accordingly.

XIV

table

No. 11

XV

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the Six CHRONOMETERS selected for the determination of Longitudes, from

Week being shewn of each Chronometer

Week

ending

228 with

254 with

259 with

254

259

369

404

25

228

259

369

404

25

228

254

369

404

25

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

5

May 13

G0.61

G2.77

G0.923

L4.96

L7.46

L0.61

G2.16

GO.313

L5.57

L8.07

L2.77

L2.16

L 1.747

L7.73

L 10.23

20

Ll.

3.3

0.86

5.93

9.

Gl.

4.3

1.86

4.93

8.

3.3

4.3

2.44

9-23

12.3

27

0.93

2.93

0.57

4.86

9.536

0.93

3.86

1.4

3.93

8.606

2.93

3.86

2.36

7.79

12.466

June 3

1.

2.36

2.036

4.464

10.43

1.

3.36

3.036

3.464

9-43

2.36

3.36

0.324

6.826

12.79

10

0.034

2.8

3.107

3.14

10.61

0.034

2.834

3.141

3.114

10.576

2.8

2.834

GO.3O7

5.94

13.41

17

G3.11

3.14

2.32

2.57

12.68

L3.11

0.03

LO.79

5.68

15.79

3.14

0.03

L0.S2

5.71

15.82

24

4.14

2.7

L0.14

1.535

11.32

4.14

L1.44

4.58

5.675

15.46

2.7

Gl.44

2.84

4.235

14.02

July 1

3.7

3.5

0.14

1.07

11.43

3.7

0.2

3.84

4.77

15.13

3.5

0.2

3.64

4.57

14.93

8

3.463

3.68

Go. 14

0.714

10.8

3.465

GO.215

3.325

4.179

14.265

3.68

LO.215

3.54

4.394

14.48

15

3.607

4.25

0.714

GO.036

9.964

3.607

0.643

2.893

3.571

13.571

4.25

0.643

, 3.536

4.214

14.214

22

3.57

4.214

0.357

0.036

9.57

3.57

0.844

3.213

3.534

13.14

4.214

0.844

3.857

4.178

13.784

29

3.07

4.5

0.286

0.107

8.82

3.07

1.43

00

2.963

11.89

4.5

1.43

3.214

4.393

13.32

Aug. 5

3.2S6

4.393

LO.357

0.18

5.18

3.286

1.107

3.643

3.106

8.466

4.393

1.107

4.75

4.213

9.573

12

2.536

4.36

0.57

0.

7.536

2.536

1.824

3.106

2.536

TO.O72

4.36

1.824

4.93

4.36

11.896

19

3.036

4.464

0.75

0.43

7.82

3.036

1.428

3.786

2.606

10.856

4.464

1.428

5.214

4.034

12.284

26

3.716

4.93

0.536

1.893

5.5

3.716

1.214

4.252

1.823

9-216

4.93

1.214

5.466

3.037

10.43

Sept. 2

3.536

5.93

0.18

2.

4.036

3.536

2.394

3.716

1.536

7.572

5.93

2.394

6.11

3.93

9.966

5.07

6.643

G 1.036

2.5

3.18

5.07

1.573

4.034

2.57

8.25

6.643

1.573

5.607

4.143

9.823

The “ Daily Rates” which are here given, are the actual daily differences of each Chronometer on the others, as shewn on
reference is made. A Table of this nature much facilitates the regulation of Chronometers, by bringing into a small compass,
It will also generally shew the week in which any Chronometer may change its established rate ; and as this sometimes happens
on the mean Longitude, which requires to be met by a special correction, this Table serves to fix the periods, and regulate the

the commencement the Voyags to the close of the season of Navigation of 1819 ; the average Daily Rate in each
successively on the other five.

369 with

404 with

25 with

Temperature.

228

254

259

404

25

228

254

259

369

25

228

254

259

369

404

j Mini-
mum.

M«an.

S

S

S

S

S

5

S

S

S

s

S

S

S

S

S

0

0

0

L0.923

L0.313

G 1.747

L 5.886

L8.383

G4.96

G5,57

G7.73

G5.886

L2.5

G7.46

G8.07

GlO.23

G8.3S3

G2.5

0.86

1.86

2.44

6.79

9.86

5.93

4.93

9-23

6.79

3.57

9.

8.

12.3

9.86

3.07

0.57

1.4

2.36

5.43

10.106

4.86

3.93

7.79

5.43

4.676

9-536

8.606

12.466

10.106

4.676

2.036

3.036

0.324

6.5

12.466

4.464

3.464

6.826

6.5

5.966

10.43

9.43

12.79

12.466

5.966

3.107

3.141

L 0.307

6.247

13.717

3.14

3.114

5.94

6.247

7.47

10.61

10.576

13.41

13.717

7.47

45

55

49.5

2.32

GO.79

GO.82

4.89

15.

2.57

5.68

5.71

4.89

10.11

12.68

15.79

15.82

15.

10.11

4<5

65

54.5

0.14

4.58

2.84

1.395

11.18

1.535

5.675

4.235

1.395

9-785

11.32

15.46

14.02

11.18

9.785

49

68

37.5

0.14

3.84

3.64

0.93

11.29

1.07

4.77

4.57

0.93

10.36

11.43

15.13

14.93

11.29

10.36

46

68

58.7

0.14

3.325

3.54

0.854

10.94

0.714

4.179

4.394

0.854

10.086

10.8

14.265

14.48

10.94

10.086

45

64

60

0.714

3.893

3.536

G0.678

10.678

L 0.036

3.571

4.214

0.678

10.

9.964

13.571

14.214

10.678

10.

49

66

56.5

0.357

3.213

3.857

0.321

9.927

0.036

3.534

■4.178

0.321

9.606

9.57

13.14

13.784

9.927

9.606

45

66

57

0.286

2.784

3.214

0.179

9.106

0.107

2.963

4.393

0.179

8.927

8.82

11.89

13.32

9.106

8.927

52

66

58.7

GO.357

3.643

4.75

0.537

4.823

0.18

3.106

4.213

L 0.537

5.36

5.18

8.466

9.573

4.823

5.36

50

6’6

57.5

0.57

3.106

4.93

0.57

6.966

0.

2.536

4.36

0.57

7.536

7.536

10.072

1.896

6.966

7.536

46

68

58

0.75

3.786

5.214

1.18

7.07

0.43

2.606

4.034

1.18

8.25

7.82

10.856

12.284

7.07

8.25

50

65

58

0.536

4.252

5.466

2.429

4.964

1.893

1.823

3.037

2.429

7.393

5.5

9-216

10.43

4.964

7.393

40

70

57

0.18

3.716

6.11

2.18

3.856

2.

1.536

3.93

2.18

6.036

4.036

7.572

9.966

3.S56|

6.036

50

69

58.5

L 1.036

4.034

5.607

1.464

4.216

2.5

2.57

4.143

1.464

5.68

3.18

8.25

9-823

4.216

1

5.68

48

70

58

their comparison each day at noon ; being wholly unconnected with the respective corrections to Mean Greenwich time, to which no
and in one view, tire means whereby their absolute as well as relative uniformity and steadiness of going may be estimated,
to two or three (where several are concerned) , in the intervals between comparisons with known time, and as each change has an influence
amount of such corrections accordingly.

XVI

TABLE III

No. 523 was worn in the pocket during the whole of the above period ; it was stopped on the
30th of June, by being drawn out too quickly in noting the time of an observation.

XVll

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the H)er 30th, 1819, to April 27th, 1820.

DATE.

No. 259

No. 228

No. 253

Nco. 2109

Temperature.

Fast

Daily

Hate

Fast

Daily

Rate

Fast

Daily

Rate

Faa’ast

Daily

Rate

Max.

Min.

Mean

s

1819

nt

s

S

m s

S

m s

S

m s s

S

O

0

Sept.

30

12

43.66

21 42.16

24 41.16

18 312

L3.89

G3.5

L.32

L 2.1

60

38

48

Oct.

7

12

16.43

22 06.93

20 56.93

18 1)7

("2109 stopt on the 13th, being exposed between

3.89

3.61

32.9

58

37

47

N 2 and 3 hours to a temperature of — 4® during

14

11

49.2

22 32.2

17 06.45

17 5?0.5

t Lunar observations.

3.01

4.13

31.6

3.7

59

34

45

21

11

28.1

23 01.1

13 25.1

17 4}4

3.01

4.13

30.4

4

58

33

44

523 set near to mean lime.

28

11

07

23 30

9 52.5

17 336

r

3.95

3.08

30.6

4.86

59

32

44

.j 25 exposed to cold drafts : shifted on the 2nd

Nov.

4

10

39.3

23 51.5

6 18

17 ^2

November across the cabin.

3.95

2.76

32.6

2.7

51

27

37

11

10

11.6

24 10.8

2 29.85

16 513.5

3.95

2.96

28.6

1.9

50

28

35

18

09

44

24 31.5

59 09.5

16 330

r25 stopt at 15'^ Fahrenheit.

3.95

4.97

32.4

1.4

46

15

S3

369 lost 47 minutes in one day, and above an

25

09

16.3

25 06.3

55 22

16 050

L hour the next.

(*2109 and 523 used in lunar observations, tempe-

3.95

3.47

30

52

20

37

s ratine — 35®. 2109 stopt, and 523 lost 43' in

Dec.

2

08

48.6

25 30.6

51 52.1

15 454

^ two hours and a half.

3.5

3.6

29.7

9.3

58

17

S8

08

24

25 55.75

48 23.7

15 249

16

07

59.5

3.5

26 20

3.4

45 05

28.3

15 151.3

8.24

63

31

49

f Chronometers suspended close to the stove pipe,

1 the registering Thermometer shifted with them.

3.5

3.9

28.6

8

65

30

48

23

07

35

26 47-25

41 45

15 155.5

f259 omitted to be wound, when compared on

2.67

31.3

60

28

42

I 2109 lost 3' 46" in one day ; cairse unknown.

30

38

36.7

27 05.95

38 06

14 J13

1^523 stopt in observing hmaii^s, temp. — 37®.

1820

3.6

4.8

29.1

7.3

60

24

42

Jan.

6

33

11.5

27 39.5

34 42

14 J21.7

3.6

4.8

30.5

7.67

55

25

38

13

37

46.3

28 13

31 08.8

14 «8

3.6

30.1

6.7

65

25

45

f228 omitted to he wound when compared on

20

37

21.1

44 44

27 38

14 m

3,7

5.46

30.14

7.6

62

28

45

27

36

55.2

45 12.25

24 07

14 48

3.7

3.5

30.4

9.3

61

23

41

Feb.

3

36

29.3

45 37.6

20 34

14 '43.1

3.7

3.9

29.66

8.3

57

24

41

10

1 36

03.4

46 04.9

17 06.4

14 44.9

3.7

5.66

30.13

10.2

61

10

40

1 Dead lights removed from the cabin windows ;

17

35

37.5

46 44.5

13 35.5

14 33.5

\ the thermometer fell to 10^, when 25 and 369

G 0.5

17.

29.4

13.36

36

4

19.5

\ stopt, and subsequently to 6° when 404 stopt.

24

35

41

48 43.75

10 09.2

13 0

0-5

20.1

30

13.4

31

2

F5.3

March 2

i 35

44.5

51 04.5

6 39.5

12 26

0.5

14.8

29.3

7.3

54

5

27

9

1

48

52 48

3 14

12 34.5

Dead lights replaced.

L 1.4

5.7

29.7

7.2

58

24

39

16

35

38.2

53 28

59 46.4

12 44

1.4

7.06

31.4

9

50

21

34

23

1 35

28.4

54 17.4

56 07

11 41

404 stopt, cause unknown at the time.

1.4

7.8

29.7

7.3

50

20

33

30

35

18.6

55 12

52 39.1

11 49.5

*

1.4

7.26

30.7

'9.6

47

23

34

April

6

35

08.8

56 02.8

49 03.8

11 42

1.5

7.8

99 O

48

17

31

f2109 stopt in being taken down to compare,

13

34 58.4

56 57.4

45 11.4

10 07

(. but was immediately set again in motion.

1.5

10.4

32.3

12.3

45

13

28

20

34

48

58 10

41 25

10 41

1.5

7.64

30.9

12

48

23

35

27

34

37.5

59 03.5

37 48.5

9 17

c

4

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS.

TABLE IV.

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the Hecla’s CHRONOMETERS on Mean Time at Winter Harbour, from September 30th, 1819, to April 27th, 1820.

XVll

DATE.

No. 259

No. 2

Fait

Daily

Kate

Fast

1819

nt

s

S

m

s

Sept. 30

12

43.66

L3.89

21

42.16

Oct. 7

12

16.43

3.89

22

06.93

14

11

49.2

3.01

22

32.2

21

11

28.1

3.01

23

01.1

28

11

07

3.95

23

30

Nov. 4

10

39.3

3.95

23

51.5

11

10

11.6

3.95

24

10.8

18

09

44

24 31.5

3.95

25

09

16.3

3.95

25

06.3

Dec. 2

08

48.6

3.5

25

30.6

9

08

24

3.5

25

55.75

16

07

59.5

3.5

26

20

23

07

35

26

47.25

30

38

36.7

27

05.95

1820

3.6

Jan. 6‘

38

11.5

3.6

27

39.5

13

37

46.3

3.6

28

13

20

37

21.1

3,7

44

44

27

36

55.2

45

12.25

3.7

Feb. 3

36

29.3

3.7

45

37.6

10

36

03.4

3.7

46

04.9

17

35

37.5

G 0.5

46

44.5

24

March 2

35

41

05

48

43.75

35

44.5

0.5

51

04.5

9

; 35

48

L 1.4

52

48

16

35

38.2

1.4

53

28

23

; 35

28.4

1.4

54

17.4

30

35

18.6

1.4

55

12

April 6

35

08.8

56

02.8

1.5

13

34 58.4

56

57.4

1.5

20

34

48

1.5

58

10

27

31

37.5

59

03.5

s

G3.5

3.61

4.13

4.13

3.08
2.76

2.96

4.97
3.47
3.6
3.4

3.9
2.67
4.8
4.8

5.46

3.5
3.9
5.66

17.

20.1

14.8

5.7

7.06

7.8
7.26
7.8

10.4

No. 253

No. 254>

No. 369

0

0

Fait

Daily

Kate

Fast

Daily

Rate

Fast

Daily

Rate

Fast

Daily

Rate

7)1

s

S

m

s

S

7/1 S

S

m S

S

24

41.16

18

33.66

23 46.6

30 12

L32

L2.8

L5.14

L1.21

20

56.93

18

13.9

23 10.6

30 03.5

32.9

2.6

2.14

0.8

17

06.45

17

57

22 55.5

29 57.9

31.6

2.1

0.6

0.04

13

25.1

17

42.5

22 51.6

29 57.6

30.4

1.8

G0.43

GO.34

9

52.5

17

30

22 54.5

30 0

30.6

1.14

L0.7

LI

6

18

17

22

22 49.5

29 53

32.6

3.6

G0.07

0.8

2

29.85

16

57.3

22 50

29 47.5

28.6

3

L1.43

0.61

59

09.5

16

36.5

22 40

29 43.2

32.4

5

3.7

55

22

16

01.6

35 44

29 17

30

3.1

L4.1

2.4

51

52.1

15

40

35 14.9

29 0

29.7

2.3

7.3

G 0.14

48

23.7

LS

23.75

34 23.75

29 01

28.3

0.86

2.8

L0.9

45

05

15

18

34 04.23

28 54.5

28.6

0.8

2.1

1.6

41

45

15

12.5

33 49.75

28 43.2

31.3

2.7

7.2

3.4

38

06

14

55.6

32 59.4

28 19.4

29.1

0.3

4.2

1.3

34

42

14

53.75

32 30.2

28 10.5

30.5

1.46

6.9

3

31

08.8

14

43.5

31 42

27 49.3

30.1

0.7

6.1

9 9

27

38

14

38.6

30 59

27 33.8

30.14

0.84

3.7

1 97

24

07

14

32.7

30 33

27 20

30.4

1.27

5.1

9 4

20

34

14

23.8

29 57

27 03

29.66

1.24

6.6

17

06.4

14

15.1

29 11

26 48.4

30.13

1.1

13

35.5

14

07.5

Stopt

26 15.5

29.4

3.9

10

09.2

30

13

40

8.3

Stopt

6

39.5

12

42

29.3

2.8

3

14

12

22.5

10 32.5

49 34

29.7

1.43

L7.36

2.7

59

46.4

12

12.5

9 41

49 15

31.4

3.1

7.3

56

07

II

50.6

8 50

Stopt

29.7

2.76

8.6

52

39.1

11

31.3

7 47.6

30.7

2 3

11.5

49

03.8

11

IS

6 27.3

45

II.4

33.2

3.44

lO.l

10

50.9

5 16

32.3

4.9

11.4

41

25

10

16.5

3 56.3

30.9

3.2

4.1

37

48.5

9

54

3 27.5

No. 25

37 14
32 55
29 09
24 36
19 19
10 43
06 17.3
03 07.5
Stopt
15 00
13 01
12 38
12 20.75
9 52
8 35.5
1 10.5
56 50.6
54 17
50 42.8
48 35.4
Stopt

41 43
35 38.2
28 35
22 18.6
16 45
13 30
11 07
7 25.5

L37

32.3
39

45.3
74
38
27

17

03.3

2.4

21

11

63.6
37
21.9

30.6

18

52.1

60.4
54
48
23

28.4
31.7

No. 523

fo. 2109

Temperature.

'ast

Daily

Fast

Rate

]

Rate

Max.

Min.

Mean

m s

S

m

S

S

43 27

L 13

15

12

L2.1

60

38

48

41 56

13.9

14

57

58

37

40 19

04

00.5

11.1

3.7

59

34

45

39 01

03

14

4

58

33

44

4 34

03

1)6

12

4.86

59

32

44

3 10

14.3

02

32

2.7

51

27

37

1 30

11.6

02

13.5

1.9

50

28

35

0 09

02

00

1.4

46

15

S3

59 26

01

50

20

52

37

56 19

46

54

11.6

9.3

58

17

38

54 57.5

12.8

45

49

8.24

63

31

49

53 27

16

44

B1.3

8

65

30

48

51 31.5

43

55.5

60

28

42

48 35.4

39

13

17.3

7.3

60

24

42

46 34

21.3

38

21.7

7.67

55

25

38

44 05.3

22.1

37

m

6.7

65

25

45

41 30.6

24.6

36

41

7.6

62

28

45

37 38.2

30.4

35

48

9.3

61

23

41

34 05.8

27

34

43.1

8.3

57

24

41

30 55.4

32.6

33

44.9

10.2

61

10

40

27 07.5

36.6

32

33.5

13.36

36

4

19.5

22 51

46

31

0

13.4

31

2

15.3

17 27.5

25.4

29

26

7.3

54

5

27

14 29

41.3

28

34.5

7.2

58

24

39

9 40

42.2

27

44

9

30

21

34

4 44.5

35.4

26

41

7.3

50

20

33

0 36

36.7

25

49.5

‘9.6

47

23

34

56 19

46.6

24

42

48

17

31

50 53

22

07

31.6

12.3

45

13

28

47 12

30.7

20

41

12

48

23

35

43 37.5

19

17

72109 stopt on the 13th, being exposed between
x 2 and 3 hours to a temperature of — 4^ during
h Lunar observations.

523 set near to mean time.

25 exposed to cold drafts : shifted on the 2nd
November across the cabin.

25 stopt at 15V Fahrenheit.

. 300 lost 47 minutes in one day, and above an
L hour the next.

f 2109 and 523 used in lunar observations, tempe-
s rature — 35°. 2109 stopt, and 523 lost 43' in
^ two hours and a half.

/Chronometers suspended close to the stove pipe,
1 the registering Thermometer shifted with them.

7259 omitted to be wound, when compared on
J the 26th.

1 2109 lost 3' 40" in one day ; cause unknown.
(..523 stopt in observing lunar's, temp. — 37®.

f228 omitted to be wound when compared on
t the 16th.

Dead lights removed from the cabin windows ;
^ tlie thermometer fell to lOO, when 25 and 369
stopt, and subsequently to 6^ when 404 stopt.

Dead lights replaced.

404 stopt, cause unknown at the time.

f2109 stopt in being taken down to compare,
i. but was immediately set again in motion.

XVlll

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS

TABLE V.

AN ACCOUNT of the going of the Hecla and Griper’s CHRONOMETERS on Mean Time, at Winter Harbour, during the Twelve Weeks preceding the season of Navigation of 1820.

1820

ARNOLD’S

PARKINSON AND FRODSHAM’S

Temperature.

No. 367

No. 377

No. 497

No. 25

No. 210(

No. 253

No. 254

No. 259

No. 228

May 8

15

22

29

June 5

12

19

26

July 3

10

17

24

31

Fa8t

Daily Rate

Fa$t

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily

Hate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Maximum

Minimum

m s

40 08.2

38 59

38 19.7

37 13.9

36 20.8

35 40.1

34 46

33 45

32 49.8

31 53.3

31 06.4

s

L9.86

5.7

9.4

7.6

5.8

7.7

8.7

7.9

8.1

6.7

m s

13 46

13 11

12 36.2

12 04.6

11 25.8

10 55.9

10 16.5

9 41

9 07.3

8 33

7 57

s

L 5.

5.

4.5

5.54

4.3

5.6

5.1

4.9

4.9

5.1

m s

38 40.7

39 20.3

40 07.2

40 53

41 35

42 32

43 14.5

43 52.8

44 35.8

45 19.3

46 00

s

G5.66

6.7

6.6

6.

8.1

6.1

5.5

6.1

6.2

5.87

m s

37 50

36 35

35 40

34 41

33 08

32 30.3

33 34

34 46.2

36 17.3

37 51.8

s

L10.7

7.9

8.4

4.7

5.4

G 9.1

10.3

13.

13.5

m s

59 12.5

57 47.5

56 20.7

54 40.7

38 30.3

37 01.5

35 56.3

34 47

33 43.2

32 42

31 55

s

L12.1

12.4

12.9

. x

12.7

9.3

9.86

9.1

8.7

6.7

km s

6 32 09.

28 37.6

25 18.7

22 18

19 24.4

15 58.9

12 40.8

9 27

6 17.6

3 04

5 59 58.25

56 45.5

53 30.1

s

L30.2

28.4

25.7

25.

29.3

28.3

27.7

27.1

27.6

26.6

27.6

28.

km s

7 8 58.5

8 30.3

8 14.7

8 10

7 46.4

7 38.6

7 16.3

7 01

6 51.3

6 44.3

6 39.7

6 27

6 11.9

s

L4.

2.23

0. 7

3.3

1.16

3.2

2.2

1.4

1.

0.66

1.8

2.1

h m s

6 34 11.7

34 17.4

34 27.3

34 54.4

35 04.3

35 10.34

35 18.8

35 29.3

35 38.75

35 46.3

35 56.3

s

G0.82

1.42

1.41

1.415

0.857

1.21

1.51

1.344

1.08

1.414

h m s

4 00 06

00 54

1 38.2

2 13.4

2 46.55

3 34

4 11

4 47

5 28.5

6 09.3

6 55.7

7 32

8 13

s

G6.86

6.34

5.

4.7

6.8

5.3

5.1

5.8

5.8

6.6

5.2

5.8

0

47

53

56

59

53

53

57

58

57

58

55

54

0

26

36

42

45

43

41

41

46

49

48

48

48

Average )
daily Rate.s j

Losing 7.746

Losing 4.994

Gaining 6.283

Losing 10

42

Losing 27.62

Losing 1.98

Gaining 1.25

Gaining 5.775

No. 369 is omitted, having stopped on the 13th of June. No. 523 also omitted, since being much in use as a pocket watch it was not regularly compared. No. 2109 was worn by Captain
Parry during an excursion into the interior of Melville Island, from the 1st to the 15th of June. Nos. 367, 377, and 497, were the Griper’s establishment, and were returned to her on the 21st of
July to be in readiness for Sea. The time was kept by a Transit Instrument at the Observatory.

XVlll

CHRONOMETERS

LE V.

AN ACCOUpime, at Winter Harbour, during the Twelve Weeks preceding the season of Navigation of 1820.

1820

PARKINSON and .FRODSHAM’S

Temperature.

I9

No. 253

No. 254<

No. 259

No, 228

Hate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Fast

Daily Rate

Maximum

Minimum

m 5

h m s

s

h m s

s

h m s

s

h m s

s

May 8

40 •

6 32 09.

7 8 58.5

4 00 06

1.1

L30.2

L4.

• • •

G6.86

47

26

15

38 .

28 37.6

8 30.3

00 54

1.4

28.4

2.23

• • •

6.34

53

36

22

38

25 18.7

8 14.7

6 34 11.7

1 38.2

1.9

25.7

0.7

G0.82

5.

56

42

29

37

22 18

8 10

34 17.4

2 13.4

25.

3.3

1.42

4.7

59

45

June 5

36 ;

19 24.4

7 46.4

34 27.3

2 46.55

•

29.3

1.16

1.41

6.8

53

43

12

35 .

15 58.9

7 38.6

34 54.4

3 34

,

28.3

3.2

1.415

5.3

53

41

19

34 .

12 40.8

7 16.3

35 04.3

4 11

1.7

27.7

2.2

0.857

5.1

57

41

26

33 ■

9 27

7 01

35 10.34

4 47

).3

27.1

1.4

1.21

5.8

58

46

July 3

32 .

6 17.6

6 51.3

35 18.8

5 28.5

).86

27.6

1.

1.51

5.8

57

49

10

31

3 04

6 44.3

35 29.3

6 09.3

).l

26.6

0.66

1.344

6.6

58

48

17

31

5 59 58.25

6 39.7

35 38.75

6 55.7

1.7

27.6

1.8

1.08

5.2

55

48

24

. .

56 45.5

6 27

35 46.3

7 32

3.7

28.

2.1

1.414

5.8

54

48

31

• •

53 30.1

6 11.9

35 56.3

8 13

Average }
daily Rates }

Lo42

Losing 27.62

Losing: 1.98

Gaining 1.25

Gaining 5.775

No. 369 g much in use as a pocket watch it was not regularly compared. No. 2109 was worn by Captain
Parry during Nos. 367, 377, and 497, were the Griper’s establishment, and were returned to her on the 21st of
July to be in i

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS. xix

XX

GOING OF THE CHRONOMETERS,

TABLE VII.

A STATEMENT of the Daily Rates of the under-mentioned CHRONOMETERS in London,

since their return from the Expedition.

ARNOLD’S

PARKINSON and FRODSHAM’S

1820

367

377

i

497

2109

25

228

253

254

259

Dec, 3

s

s

s

s

5

5

G 7

5

L 29

L 3

5

G 3.5

4

5.5

28.5

3

3

5

. . .

.

. . .

. . .

. . .

6.5

27.5

3

3

6

6

27

1.5

1.5

7

6.5

26

2

2.5

8

5.5

27.5

2

2.5

9

L7

L6

G 6

L 11

G 12

6

27.5

2

2

10

9-5

6

8

12

14

6

27

3

1.5

11

8.5

5

9.3

11

14.7

6

27

2

2

12

8.5

5

7

11

12.5

6

26

2

1.5

13

9

4

8

12

14.5

5.5

27

2.5

1.5

14

8

4

8

11

13

6

28

3.5

1.5

15

9.5

6

7

12

14

6.5

28

4

2.5

16

9.5

6.5

. . .

12

13

7

28

3.5

3

17

. . •

6.5

29

3.5

2.5

18

. . .

6

29

3

2.5

Mean

L 8,7

L 5.3

G 7.6

L 11,5

G 13.5

G 6.2

L 27.6

L 2.7

G 2.28

APPENDIX 11.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

XXlll

N" II.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

The lunar observations comprised in this Abstract, are those by which the
chronometers selected for the determination of longitude were regulated.

The method, by which their results were applied from time to time to this
purpose, is explained in the notes and memorandums annexed to the dates to
which they respectively belong.

The observations were made by Captain Parry, and Lieutenant Beechey,
Messrs. Hooper and Ross, and Captain Sabine ; who are severally referred
to by their initials in the column denoting the observer.

The instruments used in observing the distances were generally sextants,
and occasionally reflecting circles ; when sextants were employed, their index
error was always carefully ascertained at the time of observation ; the dis-
tances observed with circles are distinguished by asterisks, and those with
sextants are corrected for the index error.

The apparent altitudes of the objects were usually obtained by proportion
from observations at the commencement and close of each set of distances ;
when circumstances did not permit the observation, they have been calculated.

The distances of the four first-mentioned observers have been cleared
from the effects of parallax and refraction by Dr. Maskelyne’s rule, published
in the preface to Taylor’s Logarithms, using the table of mean refraction of
Mendoza Rios corrected for variations in temperature and atmospherical
pressure. The true distances of Captain Sabine have been computed some-
times by the same method, but oftener by the Cambridge parallactic tables.

XXIV

APPENDIX.

Ill ascertaining the apparent time at Greenwich corresponding to the true
distances, the first term of the proportion, being usually the difference
between the next greater and the next less distance in the Nautical
Almanac, has been corrected when necessary, by the method of second
differences, to the actual change in the moon’s distance from the sun or star
in the interval of three hours, of which the middle point is intermediate
between the time of the observation, and that of the computed distance in the
almanac, to which the portion of time sought is to be applied.

Note. — The dates throughout this abstract are according to the astro-
nomical method of reckoning; the times by watch, and the apparent
Greenwich times, being carried on beyond twenty-four hours when necessary
in longitudes west of Greenwich.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS

XXV

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT SEA — June 26th to July 1st inclusive.

XXVI

APPENDIX

c«

C

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s

S

C

OT

s

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b

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50

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in

t>

in

05

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cq

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fC •—

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o

in

05

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in

r— H

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05

in

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f— H

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in

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xxviii

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XXXll

APPENDIX.

Memorandum annexed to the hunar Observations of June and August.

The difference of the chronometers on Greenwich time having been care-
fully noted on the sixth of May, the day preceding their embarkation from
London, the lunar observations of June and August afforded a means of
ascertaining their rates since they had been on board.

1st. By 640 distances of the sun west of the moon observed in June, No.
228 was found slow 3™ 44\35 of Greenwich time at noon of the 29th of
June ; when the differences of the other five chronometers, obtained by com-
parison with 228, were also as follows :

254 259 369 404 25

ms ms ms ms ms

Slow! 42.3 slow 4 33 slow 0 28 fast 6 52 fast 11 17.5

2d. By 569 distances of the sun east of the moon observed in August, the
chronometers were found to differ from Greenwich time at noon of the 14th
of August, as follows :

228 254 259 369 404 25

ms ms ms ms ms ms

Slow 2 43 slow 3 12 slow 6 45.75 fastO 30 fast 7 68 fast 18 67.5

The mean of these differences of the 29th of June and of the 14th of August,
being taken as the correction for each chronometer to Greenwich time at
noon of the intermediate day, viz., the 22d of July, the errors incidental to
results obtained from distances exclusively east, or exclusively west of the
moon, may be considered to be nearly balanced.

Corrections to Greenwich time on the 22d of July.

228 254 259 369 404 25

ms ms ms ms ms ms

Slow 3 13.67 slow 2 27.15 slow 5 39.4 fastO 01 fast 7 25 fast 15 00.75

By comparing these corrections with the original differences at midnight
on the 6th of May, (Appendix, page xiii.) the gain or loss of each chronometer
in the interim is obtained, and thence its daily rate, by dividing by 76|, being
the number of days comprised in the interval :

228 254 259 369 404

ms ms ms ms ms

Mid‘.May6. S1.2 26.85 si. 0 28.15 sl.O 38.85 fa. 1 56.15 fa. 4 55.9

Gain or loss. L 0 46.82 L 2 55.3 L 5 00.5 L 1 55.15 G 2 29.1

Per diem. L 0.612 L 2.29 L 3.9 L 1.5 G 1.95

25

m 8

fa. 3 25.15
G 11 42.35
G 9.18

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

XXXlll

These are the rates which were in strictness deducible from the observa-
tions ; but it is necessary to explain that when the rates were actually
assigned, which was as early in August as the observations could be collected
from the respective observers, the mean result both of the June and of the
August lunars, differed a few seconds from the more correct results obtained
in a revision in the following winter, inasmuch as in their computation the
mean refraction of the tables had not been in all instances corrected for
variations in temperature and atmospherical pressure ; the rates then deduced
from them were not therefore exactly those above stated ; in consequence,
however, of the sun being on different sides of the moon, in the observations
of June and August, and the number of distances observed on either side
nearly equal, the errors of calculation in August counterbalanced in great
measure those of June, the mean result being but slightly influenced, and
affecting the deduction of rates so inconsiderably as not to require subsequent
alteration

The rates actually assigned were as follows ;

228 254 259 369 404 25

1 0.567 1^246 1^89 L 1.474 G i.986 G 9.2

commencing at midnight of the 6th of May, and being in addition to the
“ original differences” of that date.

These rates were subsequently confirmed by an opportunity of comparing
the longitude, deduced by the chronometers on the 6th of September, with
the result of 6862 lunar distances.

The spot, of which the longitudes were thus compared, was a low point of
land on the coast of Melville Island to the eastward of Winter Harbour, on
which observations were made on the 6th of September, detailed under that
date in Appendix, No. III. ; giving its chronometrical longitude 110° 33' 59".

This point was afterwards included in a survey of the harbour and adjacent

* It may not be amiss to state in proof, that the ship's longitude, at noon on the 22d of July,
using the rates actually assigned, was 60° 14' 20".7 ; whereas by using those deducible from the
correct result of the lunars, it would have been 60° 14' 59".6. Thus it will be seen, that the
accumulated difference of the rates for 76J days, a period much exceeding half the whole season
of navigation of 1819, amounts to less than 40" of longitude.

XXXIV

APPENDIX.

coast, made by Captain Parry in the spring of 1820, whereby its bearing
and distance from the station in which the Hecla wintered being ascertained,
the difference of meridians was found equal to 11' 16".5 of longitude.

By the lunar observations contained in the following pages, the meridian
of the Hecla’s station was determined 110° 48' 29".2, whence the longitude
of the point of land is deduced by lunar observation, 110° 37' 12".7.

Assuming, therefore, that the result of so great a number of lunar obser-
vations was the true longitude, the rates which, on the 6th of September, had
been continued through a period of four months, are chargeable with an error
amounting on that day to 3' 13". 7. being in distance rather less than 9-lOths
of a geographical mile.

On the further presumption, that this amount had obtained gradually, which
is usual and reasonable to suppose, it may be considered as the maximum of
error, dependant on the going, or on the rates, of the chronometers, to which
the longitudes determined by them, between the 6th of May and the 6th of
September, are liable to be suspected.

Note. — In transcribing for the press Table III. of the Account of the Going
of the Chronometers, an accidental error has been made in the rate of No. 253,
between the 10th and 17th of June, which was not discovered until the sheet
had passed through the press ; it should have been 25\9 instead of 8^7 per
diem; the change which took place at that time in the rate of No. 259,
occasioned its not being included amongst the chronometers by which the
longitudes of 1819 were determined ; the watch was quite new, and the
probability of a considerable change of rate, before it should finally settle,
had been anticipated by its makers ; and it may be remarked, that it steadily
maintained the rate then taken up, throughout the remainder of the voyage.

It is satisfactory to be enabled to add, that the three excellent chronometers
which Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham sent on trial, will again be employed
on the Expedition which is now fitting; No. 259 having been presented by
officers of the Hecla and Griper to Captain Parry, and Nos. 253 and 254
having been purchased by the Admiralty.

It is difficult to appreciate too highly the value of chronometers, which
have already borne a trial in a climate, and in circumstances so peculiarly
unfavourable.

The purchase is the more satisfactory, when viewed as an encourage-
ment on the part of Government, which Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham
have so justly merited.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

XXXV

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR.

The employment of the Expedition during so many months, in seas in which
no geographical position had been previously known, rendered the correct
determination of some one meridian an object of considerable importance.

To effect this purpose, the lunar observations contained in the following-
abstract, were undertaken during the detention of the ships at Melville Island ;
determining by their result, with as much precision as may be considered due
to so great a number of distances, the meridian, passing through Winter
Harbour, of the spot in which the Hecla was stationary for several months.

On the accuracy of this determination, the correctness of the longitudes
in the Polar Sea, laid down by the Expedition, is in the first instance
dependant.

The peculiar circumstances under which a great part of these observations
were made, gave an interest to the occupation which it might not otherwise
have possessed ; requiring some portion of ingenuity, and much care and
attention, to overcome the inconvenience and embarrassment which the
extreme cold occasioned in the use of the instruments.

Every observation, made by each of the observers, has been inserted in the
abstract, that an inference may be drawn of the extent of error to be appre-
hended, should observations be ever made under similar circumstances.

It seems worthy of remark that if the distances between the moon and
stars in the winter, and between the sun and moon in spring and autumn,
be separately considered, the longitude by the moon and stars will be con-
siderably to the westward of that of the sun and moon. The reason of the
difference is not obvious ; it can scarcely have been accidental with five
observers, using different instruments, and repeated on so many occasions,
inaluding every different circumstance of observation.

The error of the chronometer No. 259 on apparent time, was ascer-
tained by observations, of which the detail will be given in Appendix, No. III.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR.

XXXVl

APPENDIX

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pH

pH

pH

pH

pH

pH

pi

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pH

pH

pH

pH

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS IN WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

xl

APPENDIX

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o

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LUNAR OBSERVATIONS,

xli

E 2

S p

2 3
fa"

o

fa, ^

(=^

VC

VC

VC

VC

CT)

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GO

GO

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

xlii

APPENDIX

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xliv

APPENDIX

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LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

xlviii

APPENDIX

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LUNAR OBSERVATIONS

xlix

S

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•s

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

1

APPENDIX

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I

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

Ivi

APPENDIX,

s

2

c

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<5

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS.

Ivil

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^ Distances observed with a reflecting circle.

LUNAR OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

Iviii

APPENDIX

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Being altogether 692 sets, containing 6,862 distances ; whereof 384 sets were taken from the Observatory House
on Melville Island, and 30.8 sets on board the Hecla. The house was 45" west of the spot in which the Hecla was
stationary during the winter, deduced from the bearing and measured distance ; by allowing this difference to
each of the 384 sets taken from the house, the mean of the 692 sets gives the longitude of the Hecla’s station,
110° 48' 29".2 west of Greenwich.

APPENDIX III

OBSERVATIONS TO DETERMINE THE LATITUDE, AND THE
LONGITUDE BY CHRONOMETERS.

N° III.

OBSERVATIONS DURING THE SEASON OF NAVIGATION IN 1819.

By these observations, the ships’ track has been laid down, and the
latitude and longitude of all lands determined, which are comprehended
in the chart of the discoveries of the Hecla and Griper.

The initials, in the column denoting the observer, are those of Captain
Parry, Lieutenant Beechey, Mr. Hooper, and of Captain Sabine.

The observed altitudes are corrected for index error only. The letters and
signs which are annexed, signify as is usual, L and U altitudes of the lower
or upper limb by the natural horizon ; o Q altitudes of the upper and
lower limbs, and of the centre, by an artificial horizon.

The latitude at other hours than at noon, except where it is expressly
mentioned otherwise, is deduced by the ships’ log, from the nearest obser-
vation, or from a mean of the two to which it is intermediate. The longitudes
at noon are obtained in like manner.

The authority, on which the correction of the chronometer No. 228 to mean
Greenwich time is founded, is shewn in the memorandum annexed to the
Lunar Observations of June and August, 1819.

The longitude by 228 is the result of the elements contained in the table ;
the corresponding longitude by the mean 6f the six chronometers, selected
for final determination, occupies the last column, and may be examined by
means of the table which follows the Abstract of Observations in 1819.

LATITUDES, AND LONGITUDES BY CHRONOMETERS.

Ixiv

APPENDIX.

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k 2

LATITUDES, AND LONGITUDES BY CHRONOMETERS.

Ixxviii

APPENDIX

A TABLE

SHEWING

I. The Time by each of the six Chronometers of the Hecla selected for the
final Determination of Longitude, at apparent noon, as ascertained by the
Observations of each Day carried to Noon by the Ship*s Reckoning.

IL The Daily Corrections to Mean Greenwich Time for Rate and Original
Difference, agreeably to the Memorandum following the Lunar Observations
for June and August, 1819.

III. The Longitude by each of the Chronometers separately, as thereby
deduced.

IV. The Corrected or Received Longitude, being a Mean of the above Six
Results.

V. A Comparison of the Longitude thus corrected with the Results of Lunar
Observations.

Ixxx

APPENDIX

1819

Parkinson and Frodsham,

No. 228

Parkinson and Frodsham,

No. 254

Parkinson and Frodsham,

No. 259

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

SLOW

SLOW

SLOW

H

M

S

m

S

0

/

//

H

M

s

m

s

o

/

//

H

M

s

m

S

o

/

May

22

25

12

2

36

6

57

00 w

0

28

12.5

0

06.7

7

04

48 w

0

26

13

1

39.14

6

58

03 w

23

38

52

2

36.6

10

22

08.5

0

41

53

0

08.9

10

30

29

0

39

49.75

1

43

10

23

11

24

52

10

2

37

13

41

45

0

55

12.25

0

11.15

13

50

51

0

53

04.75

1

46.9

13

42

55

25

I

05

44.2

2

37.5

17

05

25

1

08

46.5

0

13.5

17

14

59

1

06

35.95

1

50.8

17

06

41

27

1

33

48

2

38.7

24

06

41

1

36

52.5

0

17.89

24

17

36

1

34

34.5

1

58.6

24

08

17

28

1

38

09.4

2

39.2

25

12

09

1

41

14

0

20.1

25

23

32

1

38

52.9

2

02.5

25

13

51

29

1

41

38.1

2

39.8

26

04

27.5

1

44

43

0

22.4

26

16

21

1

42

18.75

2

06.35

26

06

16

31

2

00

46.2

2

41

30

51

48

2

03

54

0

26.9

31

05

13

2

01

22

2

14

30

54

00

June

2

2

15

56.5

2

42.1

34

39

39

2

19

07

0

31.4

34

54

36

2

16

28

2

21.9

34

42

29

3

2

17

28

2

42.7

35

02

41

2

20

39.5

0

33.6

35

18

17

2

17

58

2

25.8

35

05

57

4

2

20

52.7

2

43.3

35

54

00

2

24

04.7

0

35.9

36

10

09

2

21

19.7

2

29.7

35

57

21

5

2

21

57.6

2

43.8

36

10

21

2

25

10

0

38.1

36

27

02

2

22

22.1

2

33.6

36

13

55

6

2

26

48

2

44.4

37

23

09

2

30

01

0

40.3

37

40

20

2

27

10

2

37.5

37

26

52

7

2

26

04.4

2

45

37

12

22

2

29

17.5

0

42.6

37

30

02

2

26

23.25

2

41.39

37

16

10

9

2

27

19.1

2

46

37

31

17

2

30

32

0

47.1

37

49

47

2

27

32.5

2

49.2

37

35

25

10

2

28

59.4

2

46.7

37

56

31.5

2

32

11.25

0

49.3

38

15

08

2

29

11.15

2

53

38

01

02

11

2

37

12.7

2

47.3

40

00

00

2

40

24.25

0

51.6

40

18

57

2

37

19.7

2

56.9

40

04

09

12

2

39

05.4

■ 2

47.9.

40

28

20

2

42

13.4

0

53.8

40

46

48

2

39

09.9

3

00.8

40

32

41

13

2

40

09.6

2

48.4

40

44

30

2

43

15.3

0

56

41

02

50

2

40

11. .35

3

04.7

40

49

00

14

2

43

58.3

2

49

41

41

50

2

47

00.3

0

58.3

41

59

39

2

43

56

3

08.6

41

46

09

15

2

48

57.2

2

49.6

42

56

41

2

51

56

1

00.6

43

14

09

2

48

51.7

3

12.5

43

01

03 1

1

16

3

07

54.5

2

50.2

47

41

10

3

10

49.5

1

02.8

47

58

05

3

07

46.25

3

16.4

47

45

40

17

3

10

28

2

50.7

48

19

40

3

13

18

1

05.1

48

35

46

3

10

16.5

3

20.3

48

24

12

19

3

09

26.4

2

51.9

48

01

50

3

12

08.9

1

09.5

48

19

36

3

09

09.9

3

28.1

48

09

30

20

3

17

07.4

2

52.5

49

59

58.5

3

19

46.1

1

11.8

50

14

29

3

16

47.9

3

31.9

50

04

57

21

3

33

28.9

2

53

54

05

28

3

36

13.9

1

14

54

21

59

3

33

07.1

3

35.8

54

10

44

22

3

49

38.1

2

53.6

58

07

55

3

52

08

1

16.3

58

21

05

3

49

13.6

3

39.7

58

13

20

23

4

03

17.1

2

54.2

61

32

49

4

05

43.1

1

18.5

61

45

24

4

02

49.6

3

43.6

6l

38

18 1

24

4

03

23

2

54.8

61

34

28

4

05

44

1

20.8

61

46

12

4

02

52.5

3

47.5

61

40

00

26

4

03

55.7

2

55.9

61

42

54

4

06

08.4

1

25.3

61

53

25

4

03

18.7

3

55.3

6l

48

30

27

4

04

40.6

2

56.5

61

54

18

4

06

49.6

1

27.5

62

04

17

4

03

59.9

3

59.2

61

59

46 1

28

4

05

10.6

2

57.1

62

01

56

4

07

15.9

1

29.8

62

11

25

4

04

25.6

4

03.1

62

07

10 j

30

4

04

37

2

58.2

61

53

48

4

06

35.75

1

34.25

62

02

30

4

03

44.5

4

10.8

61

58

50 1

July

1

3

58

49.9

2

58.8

60

27

10.5

4

00

44.9

1

36.5

60

35

21

3

57

54.9

4

14.7

60

32

24

2

3

50

21

2

59.4

58

20

06

3

52

14.5

1

38.7

58

28

18

3

49

21.75

4

18.6

58

25

5 !

5

3

44

13.2

3

01

56

48

36

3

45

54.15

1

45.5

56

54

55

3

43

04.4

4

30.3

56

53

40 1

6

3

48

04.2

3

01.5

57

46

26

3

49

41.95

1

47.73

57

52

25

3

46

52

4

34.19

57

51

33

7

3

45

03.4

3

02.3

57

01

25.5

3

46

37.9

1

49.99

57

06

58

3

43

47.4

4

38.1

57

06

22

8

3

46

29

3

02.8

57

22

57

3

47

59.75

1

52.25

57

28

00

3

45

08.25

4

41.95

57

27

33 i

■ 4

LONGITUDE BY EACH OF THE CHRONOMETERS. Ixxxi

Arnold,

No. 369

Arnold,

No. m

Arnold,

No. 25

Mean Longitude

by

Chronometers

Longitude by

Lunar

Observations

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

FAST

FAST

FAST

H

s

m

s

o

/

a

H

IVI

s

m

O

/

//

H

M

S

m

S

O

/

//

o

/

II

Oil!

0

29

22.5

1

33.3

6

57

18

0

33

57.25

5

26.7

7

07

37

0

33

14.5

5

47.75

6

51

41

6

59

24.5

0

43

02

1

31.8

10

22

33

0

47

43

5

28.7

10

33

35

0

47

04.5

5

56.9

10

16

44

10

24

46.75

0

56

19.75

1

30.35

13

42

21

1

01

06

5

30.6

13

53

51

1

00

31.5

6

06

13

36

22

13

44

41

1

09

53

1

28.9

17

06

02

1

14

45

5

32.6

17

18

06

1

14

15.3

6

15.3

17

00

00

17

08

32

1

37

55

1

25.9

24

07

16

1

42

58.5

5

36.6

24

20

29

1

42

38.25

6

33.75

24

01

07

24

10

14.3

1

42

15

1

24.5

25

12

37

1

47

24

5

38.6

25

26

21

1

47

09

6

42.9

25

06

32

25

15

50.3

1

45

41.75

1

22.98

26

04

41

1

50

55.75

5

40.6

26

18

47

1

50

47.5

6

52

25

58

52

26

08

14

2

04

46.5

1

20

30

51

37

2

10

13

5

44.5

31

07

07

2

10

14.75

7

10.55

30

46

03

30

55

58

2

20

52.25

1

17.1

34

38

47

2

25

32.5

5

48,5

34

56

00

2

25

48.5

7

28.95

34

34

53

34

44

24

2

21

20.75

1

15.6

35

01

18

2

27

09.75

5

50.5

35

19

49

2

27

31.25

7

38.15

34

58

17

35

07

43

2

24

41,95

1

14.1

35

51

58

2

30

37.45

5

52.5

36

11

15

2

31

05.2

7

47.3

35

49

29

35

59

02

44

(36 19 22

2

25

1

12.7

36

07

50

2

31

46

5

54.5

36

27

52

2

32

21

7

56.5

36

06

07

36

15

31

«( By 35 <Hstances

2

30

31.25

1

11.2

37

20

00

2

36

40.75

5

56.4

37

41

05

2

37

21.75

8

05.76

37

19

00

37

28

24.3

\Aquil» Hast

2

29

43.75

1

09.72

37

08

30

2

35

59.5

5

58.4

37

30

17

2

36

50.5 .

8

14.95

37

08

52

37

17

42

2

30

53.25

1

06.8

37

26

36

2

37

19.5

6

02.4

37

49

17

2

38

25

8

33.35

37

27

54

37

36

42.7

2

32

30.5

1

05.3

37

51

18

2

39

03.5

6

04.4

38

14

46

2

40

17

8

42.5

37

53

37

38

02

03.75

2

40

40.25

1

03.8

39

54

06

2

47

20.5

6

06.4

40

18

32

2

48

44

8

51.75

39

58

04

40

05

38

2

42

31.4

1

02.3

40

22

17

2

49

15.4

6

08.4

40

46

45

2

50

50.4

9

00.9

40

27

22

40

34

02

2

43

32.6

1

00.9

40

37

55

2

50

21.3

6

10.4

41

02

44

2

52

07.6

9

10.1

40

44

22

40

50

13.5

2

47

18.3

0

59.4

41

34

43

2

54

12.3

6

12.3

42

00

00

2

56

09.3

9

19.3

41

42

30

41

47

28.5

2

52

13.4

0

57.9

42

48

52

2

59

13.7

6

14.3

43

14

51

3

01

19,2

9

28.5

42

57

40

43

02

12.7

3

11

08.75

0

56.45

47

33

05

3

18

14.25

6

16.3

47

59

29

3

20

28.5

9

37.7

47

42

42

47

46

41.8

3

13

42.75

0

54.95

48

11

57

3

20

49.75

6

18.3

48

37

52

3

23

14.25

9

46.9

48

21

50

48

25

13

3

12

41.6

0

52

47

57

24

3

19

52.4

6

22.4

48

22

30

3

22

34.6

10

05.3

48

07

20

48

09

41.7

3

20

22.9

0

50.5

49

53

06

3

27

33.6

6

24.3

50

17

20

3

30

28.6

10

14.5

50

03

32

50

05

33.7

3

36

45.4

0

49.1

53

59

05

3

43

56.9

6

26.3

54

22

39

3

47

02

10

23.75

54

09

34

54

11

35

3

52

54

0

47.6

58

01

36

4

00

08.75

6

28.24

58

25

07

4

03

21.75

10

32.95

58

12

12

58

13

32.5

4,

06

32.6

0

46.1

61

26

37

4

IS

51.1

6

30.2

61

50

14

4

17

11.6

10

42.1

61

37

22

61

38

25.7

4,

06

38.75

0

44.7

61

28

30

4

13

55.5

6

32.2

61

50

50

4

17

28.5

10

57.3

61

39

18

61

39

53

4

07

11.4

0

41.7

61

37

25

4

14

30.2

6

36.2

61

58

30

4

18

21.7

11

09.7

61

48

00

61

48

07.3

4

07

56.6

0

40.3

61

49

05

4

15

14.3

6

38.2

62

09

02

4

19

18.3

11

18.9

61

59

51

61

59

22

4

08

22.1

0

38.8

61

55

50

4

15

44.4

6

40.1

62

16

04

4

20

01.1

11

28.1

62

08

15

62

06

47

4

07

53

0

35.8

61

49

18

4

15

14,75

6

44.14

62

07

39

4

19

50.75

11

46.55

62

01

03

61

58

51

4

02

06.65

0

34.3

60

23

06

4

09

29.9

6

46.1

60

40

57

4

14

15.4

11

55.75

60

34

54

60

32

18.7

3

S3

37.25

0

32.87

58

16

06

4

01

04.25

6

48.11

58

34

02

4

05

56.5

12

04.95

58

27

53

58

25

15

3

47

30.9

0

28.5

56

45

36

3

54

57.15

6

54,1

57

00

45

4

00

19.4

12

32.5

56

56

43

56

53

22.5

3

51

21

0

26.97

57

43

30

3

58

49

6

56

57

58

15

4

04

22.2

12

41.75

57

55

07.5

57

51

12.7

3

48

19.9

0

25.5

56

58

36

3

55

44.9

6

58

57

11

43

4

01

32.4

12

50.9

57

10

22

57

05

54.4

3

49

44.75

0

24

57

20

12

3

57

14

7

00

57

33

30

4

03

10

13

00

57

32

30

57

27

25.3

Ixxxii

APPENDIX

Parkinson and Frodsham

f

Parkinson

and Frodsham.

Parkinson and Frodsham,

1819.

No. 228

No. 254

No. 259

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

July

13

H

M

s

m

SLOW

s

o

/

H

M

S

m

SLOW

s

o

/

H

M

S

SLOW

m s

o

3

47

10

3

05.7

57

33

55.5W

3

48

23.25

2

03.45

57

36

40 w

3

45

29

5

01.4

57

37

36 w

14

3

50

29.7

3

06.3

58

24

00

3

51

39.7

2

05.7

58

26

21

3

48

44.45

5

05.38

58

27

28

15

3

53

41

3

06.9

59

11

58

3

54

46.5

2

07.9

59

13

36

3

51

50.5

5

09.2

59

14

55

16

3

54

55

3

07.5

59

30

37.5

3

55

56.5

2

10.2

59

31

40

3

52

58.35

5

13.1

59

32

50

17

3

56

12.7

3

08

59

50

10

3

57

09.95

2

12.45

59

50

36

3

54

13.7

5

16.9

59

52

39

19

3

53

04.4

3

09.2

59

03

24

3

53

55.4

2

16.9

59

03

05

3

50

57.15

5

24.76

59

05

28

21

3

51

38.4

3

10.3

58

42

11

3

52

22.15

2

21.4

58

40

53

3

49

23.4

5

32.5

58

43

58

22

3

57

40.4

3

10.9

60

12

50

3

58

20.9

2

23.7

60

11

09

3

55

20.4

5

36.4

60

14

12

23

3

57

29.6

3

11.5

60

10

17.5

3

58

06.85

2

25.9

60

08

12

3

55

05.1

5

40.3

60

11

21

24

3

57

19

3

12.1

60

07

47

3

57

52.5

2

28.2

60

05

10

3

54

49.5

5

44.2

60

08

25

25

3

57

42.2

3

12.7

60

13

44

3

58

13.2

2

30.4

60

10

54

3

55

08.7

5

48.1

60

14

12

26

3

57

32.4

3

13.2

60

11

23

3

58

00.4

2

32.6

60

08

15

3

54

54.4

5

52

60

11

36

30

4

56

46.6

3

15.5

75

00

31

4

57

01.85

2

41.64

74

55

52

4

53

51.1

6

07.5

74

59

40 1

1

31

5

6

16

3

16.1

77

23

03

5

06

28.5

2

43.9

77

18

06

5

03

15.75

6

11.45

77

21

48

August

1

5

07

02.5

3

16.5

77

41

04

5

07

37

2

46

77

35

49

5

04

22.8

6

15.3

77

39

31

2

5

08

52.5

3

17.3

78

02

28

5

08

58.5

2

48.4

77

56

44

5

05

44.5

6

19.2

78

00

54

3

5

17

09

3

17.8

80

06

40

5

17

11.75

2

50.6

80

00

35

5

13

56

6

23

80

04

45

4

5

42

53.5

3

18.5

86

33

00

5

42

53.35

2

52.85

86

26

33

5

39

36.1

6

27

80

30

47

6

5

54

38.1

3

19.5

89

29

24

5

54

32.1

2

57.3

89

22

24

5

51

12.8

6

34.8

89

06

54 f

7

5

56

04.5

3

20.2

89

51

11.5

5

55

55.75

2

59.6

89

43

50

5

52

34

6

38.7

89

48

11 !

8

5

57

05.6

3

20.7

90

06

34.7

5

56

53.85

3

01.85

89

58

56

5

53

30.6

6

42.5

90

03

16 i

10. PM.

5

56

56.6

3

21.8

90

04

38

5

56

39.9

3

06.3

89

56

34

5

53

12.6

6

50.3

90

00

44

13

5

54

25

3

23.6

89

27

08.6

5

54

00

3

13

89

18

15

5

50

27

7

02

89

22

15 ■

14

5

53

01.25

3

24.2

89

06

21.5

5

52

32.25

3

15.3

88

56

53

5

48

58.55

7

05.9

89

01

06.5 ;

15

5

51

21.65

3

24.7

88

41

34.4

5

50

49.45

3

17.6

88

31

46

5

47

14.95

7

09.8

88

36

18

5

49

32.2

3

26.4

88

14

39

5

48

52.2

3

24.3

88

04

07

5

45

13

7

21.5

88

08

37 >

21

5

58

15.1

3

28.2

90

25

50

5

57

24.9

3

31

90

13

59

5

53

41.6

7

33.1

90

18

41

22

5

59

46.4

3

28.8

90

48

50.5

5

58

51.9

3

33.3

90

36

18

5

55

07.9

7

37

90

41

14

23

6

16

55.4

3

29.3

94

51

10.5

6

14

56.1

3

35.5

94

37

54.5

6

11

10.4

7

40.8

94

42

50 f

24

6

28

45.8

3

29.9

98

03

55.5

6

27

44.9

3

37.7

97

50

39.5

6

23

57.5

7

44.8

97

55

35 1

25

6

31

05.9

3

30.5

98

39

05.5

6

30

00.9

3

40

98

25

14

6

26

12.6

7

48.7

98

30

19.5 i

26

6

33

10.7

3

30.9

99

10

24

6

32

01.7

3

42.3

98

55

30

6

28

12.3

7

52.6

99

01

12

27

6

43

43.4

3

31.6

101

48

45

6

42

31.2

3

44.5

101

33

54

6

38

37.9

7

56.5

101

38

38 '

28

6

52

07.3

3

32.3

103

54

45

6

50

51.6

3

46.8

103

39

36

6

46

57.1

8

00.4

103

44

22.5

September

1

7

01

44.3

3

34.4

106

19

41

7

00

15.3

3

55.7

106

02

45

6

56

09.8

8

15.9

106

06

26

2

7

05

05.2

3

35

107

10

03.8

7

03

31.5

3

58

106

52

22.3

6

59

25.2

8

19.8

106

56

15.3

3

7

06

59.6

3

35.5

107

38

48

7

05

25.8

4

00.2

107

20

31

7

01

13.3

8

23.7

107

24

16 ;

4

7

11

29.1

3

36

108

46

16.5

7

09

46.3

4

02.5

108

27

11

7

05

36.6

8

27.6

los

31

02 i

1

6

7

19

21.7

3

37.3

110

44

45

7

17

28.7

4

07

110

23

55

7

13

16

8

35.35

110

27

50

LONGITUDE BY EACH OP THE CHRONOMETERS. Ixxxiii

Arnold,

Arnold,

Arnold,

No. 369

No. 404*

No. 25

Mean Longitude

Longitude by
Lunar

by

Chronometers

Observations

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

Time

Correction

Longitude

mSt

FAST

FAST

H

M

S

m

s

o

//

H

M

S

m

•

o

,

//

H

M

s

ID

s

o

a

o

//

O / //

3

50

22

0

16.6

57

31

21 w

3

57

56.5

7

09.9

57

41

39 w

4

04

45.75

13

46.15

57

44

54w

57

37 40.9 W

3

53

41.2

0

15.2

58

21

30

4

01

15.95

7

11.95

58

31

0

4

08

11.45

13

55.45

58

34

00

58

27

23.2

3

56

51.75

0

13.7

59

9

30

4

04

25.75

7

13.9

59

17

55

4

11

31.75

14

4.55

59

21

48

59

14

57

3

58

05.25

0

12.23

59

28

15

4

05

40

7

15.9

59

36

02

4

12

55.5

14

13.75

59

40

26

59

33

18.4

3

59

21.7

0

10.7

59

47

45

4

06

57.45

7

17.9

59

57

23

4

14

22.45

14

22.95

59

59

52

59

53

04.2

3

56

12.4

0

07.8

59

01

09

4

03

50.65

7

21.87

59

07

11

4

11

35.9

14

41.35

59

13

38

59

05

39.2

3

54

46.4

0

04.86

58

40

23

4

02

23.65

7

25.85

58

44

27

4

10

27.4

14

59.75

58

51

54

58

43

57.7

f60 14 59.6

4

00

48.15

0

03 39

60

11

18

4

08

24.9

7

27.8

60

14

17

4

16

38.15

15

8.95

60

22

18

60

14

20.7

J By 1209 distances
} Sun and Moon ; —

1 640 Sun West,

4

00

37.35

0

01.9

60

08

51

4

08

12.6

7

29.8

60

10

41

4

16

36.85

15

18.15

60

19

40

60

11

30.4

Lo6d Sun East.

4

00

25.5

0

00.5

60

06

15

4

08

02.75

7

31.75

60

07

45

4

16

34.25

15

27.35

60

16

43

60

08

40.8

SLOW

4

00

48.7

0

01

60

12

25

4

08

26.4

7

33.8

60

13

09

4

17

06.7

15

36.5

60

22

33

60

14

29.5

4

00

37.4

0

02.5

60

09

58

4

08

17.15

7

35.8

60

10

20

4

17

06.65

15

45.75

60

20

14

60

11

57.7

5

00

00.75

0

08.4

75

11

12

5

07

27.85

7

43.7

74

56

03

5

16

53.1

16

22.5

75

07

30

74

59

58

5

09

22.5

0

09.9

77

23

06

5

17

00

7

45.7

77

18

35

5

26

29.5

16

31.75

77

29

27

77

22

21

5

10

35.3

0

11.35

77

41

39

5

18

10.8

7

47.7

77

35

46

5

27

45.5

16

40.95

77

47

10

77

40

00

5

12

00.5

0

12.8

78

03

20

5

19

35.25

7

49.7

77

56

23

5

29

15.75

16

50.15

78

06

24

78

01

02

5

20

18

0

14.3

80

08

05

5

27

51.5

7

51.7

79

59

57

5

37

26.25

16

59.35

80

06

43

80

04

27.5

5

46

01.6

0

15.8

86

34

21

5

53

36.1

7

53.6

86

25

37.5

6

03

21.35

17

08.55

86

33

12

86

30

35.1

5

57

48

0

18.72

89

36

46

6

05

21.5

7

57.6

89

20

59

6

15

29.5

17

26.95

89

30

39

89

27

00

5

59

16

0

20.2

89

54

02

6

06

47.7

7

59.6

89

42

02

6

16

55.7

17

36.2

89

49

53

89

48

12

6

00

17.1

0

21.7

90

09

42

6

07

48.85

8

01.6

89

56

49

6

17

59.6

17

45.35

90

03

34

90

03

09

6

00

09.9

0

24.6

90

08

38

6

07

39.9

8

05.6

89

53

35

6

18

11.3

18

03.75

90

01

53

90

01

00

5

57

37.75

0

29.04

89

31

42

6

05

07

8

11.5

89

13

52.5

6

15

59.5

18

31.3

89

21

03

89

22

22.7

5

56

14.25

0

30.5

89

11

11

6

03

42.25

8

13.3

88

52

11

6

14

41.75

18

40.5

89

00

19

89

00

20

5

54

35.35

0

31.98

88

46

50

6

02

02.15

8

15.5

88

26

40

6

13

10.65

18

49.75

88

34

59

88

30

20

5

52

48.9

0

36.4

88

21

20

6

00

13.7

8

21.5

87

58

03

6

11

45.9

19

17.3

88

07

09

88

09

00

6

01

35.6

0

40.8

90

34

07

6

08

48.8

8

27.4

90

05

20

6

20

49.3

19

44.9

90

16

05 -

90

19

00

6

03

07.4

0

42.3

90

57

25

6

10

17.15

8

29.4

90

26

56

6

22

27.1

19.

54.1

90

38

15

90

41

30

6

19

17.3

0

43.8

95

00

17

6

26

20.3

8

31.4

94

27

14

6

48

43.4

20

03.3

94

40

02

94

43

15

i

6

32

06.8

0

45.3

98

13

02

6

39

13.3

8

33.4

97

39

59

6

51

43.6

20

12.5

97

52

47

97

56

00

6

34

25.6

0

46.7

98

48

04.5

6

41

32.4

8

35.4

98

14

16.5

6

54

05.6

20

21.7

98

25

58

98

30

30

6

36

32.4

0

48.2

99

20

09

6

43

36.9

8

37.3

98

44

53

6

56

12.4

20

30.95

98

55

22

99

01

15

6

47

04.1

0

49.7

101

58

27

6

54

08.4

8

39.3

101

22

17

7

06

51.6

20

40.1

101

32

52.5

101

39

08.6

6

55

28.3

0

51.2

104

04

52.5

7

02

29.3

8

41.3

103

27

00'

7

15

17

20

49.3

103

36

55

103

44

37

r

05

07.6

0

57.05

108

31

10

7

11

58.1

8

49.25

105

47

13

7

25

11.8

21

26.2

105

56

25

106

07

37

7

08

28.2

0

58.5

107

21

40.3

7

15

17.4

8

51.24

106

36

33.3

7

28

35.7

21

35..35

106

45

05.3

106

57

00

7

10

20.6

0

59.9

107

50

08.5

7

17

10.9

8

53.2

107

04

26

7

30

31.9

21

44.5

107

11

52

107

25

00

7

14

50.1

1

01.5

108

57

54

7

21

38.3

8

55.2

108

10

46

7

35

02.8

21

53.75

108

17

14

108

31

44

niO 31 45.7

7

22

40.2

1

04.4

no

56

09

7

29

25.2

8

59.2

no

06

30

7

43

00.4

22

12.1

no

12

05

no

28

32

1 by 6862 distances

S of the Sun 6c Stars
(.from the Moon,

1

Ixxxiv

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS made in the Winter of 1819, 1820, to ascertain the Error of the
Chronometer No. 259, on Mean Time whence the Apparent Time ; was obtained by
which the Longitude of Winter Harbour was deduced from the Lunar Observations in
Appendix 11. Latitude 74° 47' 18" N.

1819

Time by 259

Obser-

ver

Observed Altitudes

Baro-

meter

Ther-

mometer

Mean Time

259 Fast of

Mean Time

Phaenomena and Remarks

Oct. 5

(I

10

M

17

S

34.3

s

0

5

/

11

n

57

o

29.5

0

+ 2

H

3

M

05

s

10

H

7

M

12

s

24.3

Sun’s L. L. ^

12

9

35

24.5

B

4

25

47

29.5

—6

2

23

25.4

7

11

59.1

Ditto

27

16

37

38

S

46

45

09.3

29.95

— 20

9

26

28.65

7

11

09.35

Capella east of Mer".

16

48

46.9

B

47

28

48

29.95

—20

9

33

33.3

7

11

13.6

Ditto

17

02

17.3

S

38

08

58

29.95

—20

9

51

06.43

7

11

10.87

a Lyrae west of Mer“.

C3

'o

Q?

9?

17

14

45.3

B

37

20

31.4

29.95

—20

10

03

34.35

7

11

12.32

Ditto

30

11

43

25.4

S

23

26

19

29.75

— 25

4

32

23.5

7

11

01.9

Arcturus west of Mer".

33

99

11

52

02.6

B

22

52

48

29.75

—25

4

40

59.5

7

11

03.1

Ditto

-

Nov. 28

14

48

04.75

S

38

33

32

29.71

— 35

7

39

02.8

7

09

01.95

a. Lyrse west of Mer".

a

o

29

9

40

56.4

S

23

36

55.5

29.71

— 36

2

31

47.5

7

09

08.9

Arcturus west of Mer".

30

9

44

48.9

B

23

05

35

29.7

— 35

2

35

50.9

7

08

58

Ditto

o

Dec. 1

9

05

13.3

P

25

21

16

29.7

-36

1

56

27.36

7

08

45.94

Ditto

27

7

57

26.5

S

21

11

38

29.7

—25

1

18

43.4

6

38

43

Ditto

29

12

32

37.8

B

37

28

20

30.63

—41

5

53

52.27

6

38

45.53

a Lyrse west of Mer“.

99

12

34

47.8

B

37

19

55

30.63

—41

5

56

02.27

6

38

45.47

Ditto j

1820 )
April 16)

99

28

IS

39.5

P

22

45

48

30.1

— 9

21

43

57.3

6

34

42.2

Sun’s centre

28

27

33

S

23

27

03

30.1

— 9

21

52

39.1

6

34

53.9

Ditto

IS

9

12

32

s

22

34

20

30.31

— 5

2

37

47.4

6

34

44.6

Ditto

99

9

18

53.5

p

22

17

21

30.31

—5

2

44

03.5

6

34

50

Ditto

99

9

26

07.6

B

21

57

10

30.31

-5

2

51

20.6

6

34

47

Ditto

cn

§

.21

11

21

26.9

S

16

24

18

29.8

—5

4

46

38

6

34

48.9

Ditto

99

11

25

39 7

P

15

52

20

29.8

— 5

4

50

50.4

6

34

49.3

Ditto

u

B

99

11

31

14.6

B

15

46

17

29.8

— 5

4

56

24.3

6

34

50,3

Ditto

May 6

11

56

39.5

S

18

25

41.65

29.25

+ 7

5

22

10.4

6

34

29.1

Ditto

Kn

XI

O

12

11

31

52.4

s

21

31

36.25

30.3

+ 15.5

4

57

29.3

6

34

23.1

Ditto

0)

•S

16

11

47

22.6

s

21

25

58.3

30.31

+ 15.5

5

16

56.4

6

34

20.9

Ditto

17

11

11

28.7

s

24

13

24

30.38

+ 22

4

39

08

6

34

21.7

Ditto

27

12

34

39.8

s

20

25

42.1

30.05

+ 36

6

00

10.4

6

34

29.4

Ditto (true altitude)

June 18

25

56

19.83

s

27

50

57

30.1

+ 36

19

21

10.68

6

35

05.15

Ditto

19

11

35

39.4

s

26

34

51.5

30.1

+ 34

5

00

33.9

6

35

05.5

Ditto ^

longitude of winter harbour.

Ixxxv

Of the altitudes in the preceding Table, those on the 5th and 12th of
October were observed with a repeating circle, and all the others with a
sextant and artificial horizon, being corrected for index error.

As it may be conceived that the circle would have been a preferable
instrument for such purposes, during the time that the ships were stationary,
it is necessary to explain the reason of its not having been employed.

In temperatures below Zero, two inconveniences were found to attend
its use ; first, the bubble of the level became enlarged by the contraction
of the spirit beyond the extent of the ivory scale designed to register the
distance of its ends from the Zero of the scale ; thus when the level was
nearly horizontal, both ends of the bubble were concealed by the brass
frame work in which the level is enclosed ; secondly, the several joints
and pivots of ^the instrument gradually stififened, and after a short exposure
were effectually set fast.

As it was thought that the latter inconvenience might be in part occasioned
by the thickening of the oil, the circle was taken to pieces so far as could
be ventured, and thoroughly cleansed ; but although certainly improved,
it was not so much so as to become useful, since after six minutes^ exposure to
a cold of —20°, the instrument could scarcely be moved in azimuth by force
applied to the pillar, and no other cause remained, as was believed, to which
to attribute the obstruction, than the unequal contraction of the two metals,
brass and steel, which are used in its construction.

It is probable that could this difficulty have been overcome, means might
have been found of preventing the enlargement of the bubble of the level ;
which indeed was partly accomplished by the conveyance of heated air
through a tin tube, filled beneath the level, (the terrestrial telescope being-
removed), having a chimney to carry the air clear of the instrument. This
contrivance, though it embarrassed, yet did not impede the use of the circle,
while it delayed the too great contraction of the spirit for above a quarter
of an hour at a very low temperature ; it might also have been improved,
could any method have been devised of preserving freedom of motion in the
joints and pivots.

So long as the apparent time could be deduced by the sun, it was just
possible to obtain a single set of zenith distances before the inconvenience
amounted to an absolute impediment ; the temperature not being lower than
— 6°, and the circle having been thoroughly warmed by the cabin fire before its
exposure ; but when the sun no longer rose to a sufficient height above the

Ixxxvi

APPENDIX.

horizon, and when altitudes, or zenith distances of the stars, were required for
the purpose, the adjustments and management of the circle being necessarily
performed by lamp-light, could not be got through with sufficient expedition,
combined with the care requisite to ensure accuracy, before the completion
of the observation was stopped by the causes above-mentioned.

As the employment of the repeating circle had been looked forward to for
various purposes during the winter, and especially for observations on the
amount of atmospherical refraction in extreme cold, its failure caused much
disappointment ; so long, however, as the temperature remained above the
freezing point of mercury, the error of the chronometers on time could be
obtained by altitudes with a sextant and artificial horizon with much facility and
with tolerable accuracy ; the mercurial horizon was used even so low as —41°,
by previously warming the mercury and the leaden trough into which it was
poured, and by completing the observation before they had time to cool.

Ixxxvii

MERIDIAN ALTITUDES

TO DETERMINE THE LATITUDE OF THE HECLA’S STATION,
AND OF THE OBSERVATORY AT WINTER HARBOUR.

The Results of these Altitudes have been re-computed since the return of
the Expedition, using the Table of Atmospherical Refractions, published by
Dr. Young, in the Nautical Almanack for 1823.

The Observatory bore S. 76° 50' W. from the Hecla’s station, distant 709.4
yards; the Difference of Latitude was consequently 5 seconds.

The Altitudes were observed with a Sextant and Artificial Horizon, unless
when it is otherwise mentioned.

Ixxxviii

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS MADE ON

BOARD THE HECLA.

Barometer.

Thermo-

meter.

Obser-

ver

Latitude

1819

Observed Altitadc

Hecla’s

Station

Observatory

REMARKS

October 5

o

10

56

//

00

0

IN.

29.4

o

+ 4

B

o

74

//

47

22.5 N

o

74

47

17.5 N

[Reflecting' Circle & Level,
1 an Index error allowed.

14

7

01

00

Q

30.0

— 4

B

74

47

53.8

74

47

48.8

Reflecting Circle, direct.

20

4

53

03

Q

29.9

— 13

B

74

46

53.7

74

46

48.7

Ditto, inverted

1820

29

53

50

53

29.7

—28

S

74

47

15.7

74

47

10.7

a Lyree. Repeating Circle.

March

7

• 9

58

39

Q

29.18

— 2

P

74

46

51.1

74

46

46.1

10

30

23.6 0

29.18

+ 2

B

74

47

01.9

74

46

56.9

23

16

14

35

Q

29.98

— 22

P

74

47

00.5

74

46

55.5

April

17

25

37

48

Q

30.1

- 9

P

74

47

44.4

74

47

39.4

18

25

59

17

Q

30.3

— 5

P

74

47

08.4

74

47

03.4

11

26

31

0

D

30,3

— 5

B

74

47

16.6

74.

47

11.6

21

27

00

53

Q

28.78

— 1

P

74

47

04.2

74

46

59.2

28

29

17

25

Q

30.64

+ 11

P

74

47

05.5

74

47

00.5

11

29

49

00

0

30.64

+ 11

B

74

47

16.5

74

47

11.5

May

14

33

43

27

Q

30.4

+ 14

P

74

47

20.5

74

47

15.5

15

33

57

28

g

30.35

+ 18

P

74

47

39.2

74

47

34.2

11

34

29

20

o

30.35

+ 19.5

B

74

47

26.1

74

47

21.1

16

34

11

47.5 Q

30.31

+ 18

P

74

47

10.5

74

47

05.5

June

5

37

35

00.5 Q

29.55

+ 38

B

74

47

14.8

74

47

09.8

15

38

50

17

S

29.78

+ 37

P

74

47

41.6

74

47

36.6

23

38

25

00

g

30,0

+ 45.5

P

74

47

17.4

74

47

12.4

July

5

37

44

29

g

29.83

-43

P

74

47

18.9

74

47

13.9

11

37

44

25

g

29.83

+ 43

B

74

47

22.9

74

47

17.9

7

37

32

01

g

29.86

+ 56

P

74

47

23.4

74

47

18.4

11

38

04

05

0

29.86

+ 50

B

74

46

48.1

74

46

43.1

Reflecting Circle, inverted.

8

37

24

39

g

29.87

+ 50

B

74

47

58.5

74

47^ 53.5

Ditto, direct.

MERIDIAN ALTITUDES,

Ixxxix

OBSERVATIONS MADE ON BOARD THE HECLA, continued.

Latitude

1819

Observed Altitude

Barometer

meter

ver

Hecla’s Station

Observatory

REMARKS

O / n

IN.

O

Out

O / //

July 8

37 25 14 Q

29.87

-4-50

p

74 47 23.5 N

74 47 18.5 N

14

36 36 32 O

29.76

-f55

p

74 47 22.7

74 47 17.7

15

36 27 02 O

29.69

-f-45

p

74 47 27.4

74 47 22.4

17

36 07 17.50

29.79

-f-57

p

74 47 13.5

74 47 08.5

18

35 56 45 0

29.83

-i-46

p

74 47 17.1

74 47 12.1

19

36 17 09 D

29.73

-f 50

p

74 47 32

74 47 27

24

34 46 16 Q

29.71

4-49

p

74 47 24.6

74 47 19.6

25

34 33 21.5Q

29.74

4-43

p

74 47 26.1

74 47 21.1

OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE OBSERVATORY.

July 15

36 26 39. IQ

29.7

4-50

B

74 47 55.3

74 47 50.3

Reflecting Circle, direct.

16

36 18 02.5 0

29.84

4-54

B

74 46 43.5

74 46 38.5

Ditto, inverted.

18

35 57 34 Q

29.92

4-50

B

74 46 33.1

74 46 28.1

Ditto, inverted.

19

35 45 16 0

29.73

4-50

B

74 47 59

74 47 54

Ditto, direct.

22

35 11 52 0

29.75

4-52

B

74 46 42.1

74 46 37.1

Ditto, inverted.

24

34 45 46.6 0

29.75

4-50

B

74 47 58.4

74 47 53.4

Ditto, direct.

Mean of Thirty-nine Meridian Altitudes

74 47 19.36

74 47 14.36

I-. i ■

*

K f, ■ . '•

>.

". ;'i>i

,fj.'.i"' t .> , -'A >rA icjiiiy’.i'

.. ■ i.,-- • *'• •' ■

.‘T’ >» V‘; ‘ .■’. '.' -N •'

iH\.

■ ; A'A'Av '■■ A; i= A;.y J,.:3/I(.'

■r

I .

' ‘ 1 ■ ' ■ ! ' ‘i

';' ■'■ :‘<m‘ "■ I -i.mi:;;. i ’ ■■>: -l

,,,. ) I {. i M-'i •' l\

.J, .... .-vk

-I

i" i*. ,

I ' {* -.1

f : ii >-J

> n T

. .. ,wr. . - , . i J A'' ;-

I .‘Vi ".'

^...' . i/> •Vi vU 'V-' ‘ ■■

‘0 ‘v’.ii''i : ' ■' ■■ i‘f' 't ■'

Qi‘.h's ' , ■; V- .?!’•! ,vr

'■ T'i

■ ••! A ' Hi tK \ il

■ "•■ • !

' .' ■ 5 7 UJii. :v . . ;

i'"

; . . J' V'i' ’ : • -:

•.'(•'•■v, ; . -- i' ■

' . r.', •- ■/)■ yo ‘Vt \.i '

i i

"f ! .\ O’ i':- O' •'■*■ I ■>■“

■i

\ tl

■••( , I

< •- ••

J .'itS ••

1 t‘> \ T

f f.y ■ ,u , ; A- . .1

... VI- ; V<i

■ ■•'■■■I :0:T

’’ ' .'; ;; ' /,/::;' i. <■ .Ui'j' O- .tC;A;c

!

.'A"l

.-V ^ I';; a ];• '‘!/ ■V-O, •.■■■ \:

' , I ' ■ i ■ ■

.a- A..bft i'.v ’ ■• I ;• Sii a-f*! 1^-0 vsv ,J ■(C'i •

? U ';

'> • i:-.'./:** i '«■) -'yij -i,..- , flit , PI

.i ‘-"I. ': ;'y , ,., ; '■;o • i; _ . .

gUic'i t'vo Pv' ' ; V' i ;vj -rr-^. :

I .,' " . . ;t

* ' * -’A i ' f-jJ/.:}'/; lit »i..'>'. ,

. ■ [ii

,. .103iih 'A- OA I ^.3^ X'! y? • '; ; ^7. T- :. '• ’■

’ - . ■ ‘f-"*! ■ ■ ^ V 'y ' ■ ^ •■•■■'

h- ‘••'■* . ’ ’ .' ' 3}./

I m

* i

I .

Oi'' • y.oy'AY Oy

a ■ ■ u. ri ) .,VF,!A:Y;7' • ■,,

. ••' 'x'f W • ' \ . . r ... ', ^ r.,.-

V’ ... ; . ; .;j.* <‘,'j . • .i . . ■ . . >i. \, } I .. •

--'‘ •IV / .I*. .

. - v O*; .

xci

OBSERVATIONS

DURING AN

EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR OF MELVILLE ISLAND,

June, 1820.

The Longitude during this Excursion was determined by Arnold's pocket
Chronometer No. 2109.

The difference of No. 2109 on Mean Time at Winter Harbour having been
carefully noted at noon on the 1st and 16th of June, it was found to have lost

u s

3 30 in the interval, or 14 seconds daily.

Its daily rate for three weeks preceding the 1st of June, averaged 12.5
seconds; and from the 16th to the end of June, 12.7 seconds. The
14 seconds were therefore allowed as its daily loss during the Excursion ;
which, with its original difference on Mean Time at Winter Harbour on the

H M S H M S

1st of June, slow 1 17 19.5, increased by 7 23 14, which is the difference
of the Meridians of Greenwich and Winter Harbour, constituted No. 2109’s
daily correction to Mean Greenwich Time, as entered in the Table.

ni

XCll

APPENDIX

21093 correction

Obser-

ver

1820

i Time by 2109

to mean

Greenwich time

Observed Altitude

Apparent time

Latitude

Longitude

SLOW

June 1

H

M

s

H

M

s

o

i

//

H

M S

o

/

//

o

/

//

O

/

n

18

39

21.2

8

40

47.5

58

38

45

O

s

19

59 58

75

00

29 u

no

38

33 w

2

74

01

20

p

noon

75

00

29

5?

16

53

11.25

8

41

01.5

45

01

51 =0=

s

18

14 13.7

75

00

29

no

33

24

16

59

20

8

41

01.5

45

20

48

Q

p

18

20 45.25

75

06

58

no

27

40.5

3

74

03

12

O

s

noon

75

06

58

4

19

12

50.3

8

41

29.5

62

47

45

0

p

20

31 15.5

75

22

43

111

14

26

5

73

58

30

Q

p

noon

75

22

43

7

V

73

59

05

Q

p

noon

75

34

47

5)

4

32

43.3

8

42

04.5

45

30

43

O

s

5

53 53

75

34

47

no

35

34

jlio

35

52

19

4

37

04

8

42

04.5

43

55

58

Q

p

5

58 11.2

75

34

47

no

36

11

IP

18

11

48

8

42

11.5

56

09

09

0

s

19

31 44.7

75

33

54

no

53

56

nio

51

54

11

18

15

39.3

8

42

11.5

55

35

40

g

p

19

35 51.25

75

33

54

no

49

52.5

3

8

74

11

40

g

s

noon

75

33

54

17

48

45

8

42

25.5

53

21

48

0

s

19

07 01

75

26

42

111

22

15

|in

22

41

17

53

27

8

42

25.5

52

52

37

Q

p

19

11 33.5

75

26

43

111

23

06.5

3

9

74

36

10

o

p

noon

75

26

43

10

74

57

0

Q

s

noon

75

20

54

11

75

21

40

g

p

noon

75

12

50

11

7

39

24

8

43

00.5

25

46

42

D

p

8

55 47.1

75

12

50

111

51

09

{-

50

05

11

7

43

39.7

8

43

00.5

25

25

35

g

s

8

59 54.3

75

12

50

111

49

00.5

a

18

15

17

8

43

07.5

56

55

32

0

s

19

31 08

75

05

18

111

57

24

}.n

56

58

19

18

18

17

8

43

07.5

56

15

08

g

p

19

34 11.5

75

05

18

111

56

32

12

76

59

30

0

p

noon

75

02

37

18

37

17

8

43

21.5

58

51

47

o

s

19

54 31

75

02

37

111

37

04

}iu

37

10

18

40

58

8

43

21.5

60

21

00

0

p

19

58 10.8

75

02

37

111

37

17

14

77

22

50

0

s

noon

74

53

56

55

17

20

24.3

8

43

49.5

50

41

55

g

s

18

39 21

74

48

33

111

12

05

11

49

11

17

26

05.8

8

43

49.5

50

23

47

g

p

18

45 04.4

74

48

33

111

11

33.5

15

76

35

45

g

p

noon

74

48

33

xcin

OBSERVATIONS to ascertain the Error of No. 259 on Mean Time at the
Observatory, previous to the Sailing of the Expedition from Winter Harbour
in 1820.

■

1820

Time by 259

Obser-

ver

Observed Altitude

Baro*

meter

Ther-

mome-

ter

Mean Time

259 Fast of Mean Time

Remarks

H M S

0 / //

INCHES

o

H RI S

H M S

July 24

12 08 16.3

s

43 05 08 0

29.78

50

5 32 29.22

6 35 47.08’’

?9

12 16 55

s

41 56 48 0

5 41 07.9

6 35 47.1

The Altitudes

H M S

were oh-

?5

12 23 59.83

s

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The Sun’s Transit at noon of the 24th, was at 6 35 44.3 by No. 259
And at noon of the 25th, at 6 35 45.64

July 24th, midnight. .. . 6 35 44.97
At which time No. 259 was actually fast of Mean
Time, as shewn by the proceeding Observations

Difference . . . . 2.17

Consequently this difference, or 2 seconds, omitting the decimal parts, being
added to the time shewn by No. 259 at the Sun’s Transit, gave the error of
the Chronometer on Mean Time.

On the 31st of July, being the day preceding the sailing of the Expedition,

H M S

No. 259 shewed 6 35 54.32 at the Sun’s noon Transit, and was therefore

H M S H M S

6 35 56.3 fast of mean Observatory Time at Winter Harbour, and 0 45 13
slow of Greenwich Time.

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xcv

LATITUDES, AND LONGITUDES BY CHRONOMETERS, DURING
THE SEASON OF NAVIGATION IN 1820.

The Authority on which the Correction of the Chronometer No. 259
to Mean Greenwich Time is founded, is shewn in the Account of the Going
of the Chronometers, Appendix, pages x and xi.

The Longitude by No. 259 is the Result of the Elements contained in
the Table ; the corresponding Longitude by the Mean of the four Chro-
nometers selected for final Determination occupies the last Column, and may
be examined by means of the Table which follows the Abstract of Obser-
vations in 1 820.

xcvi

APPENDIX.

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LATITUDES, AND LONGITUDES BY CHRONOMETERS

XCVll

XCVlll

APPENDIX

LONGITUDE BY EACH OP THE CHRONOMETERS.

XCIX

The following Table contains the Longitude by each of the Chronometers
selected for final determination in 1820; that of No. 259 being the same as
is deduced from the Observations in the preceding Abstract.

The authority, on which the Daily Corrections to Mean Greenwich Time
for Rate and original Difference are founded, is explained in Appendix, pages
X. and xi.

The last column contains the corrected or received Longitude, being the
Mean Result of the four Chronometers.

!

11

/

APPENDIX

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Tp

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CO

APPENDIX IV.

ABSTRACT

OF

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIP OF THE HORIZON AT SEA,
WITH DR. WOLLASTON’S DIP SECTOR,

IN 1819 AND 1820.

AN ABSTRACT of OBSERVATIONS on the DIP of the HORIZON at SEA, made in His Majesty’s Ship Hecla, in 1819,

with Dr. Wollaston’s Dip Sector.

APPENDIX

cii

AN ABSrRACl of OBSERVATIONS on the DIP of the HORIZON at SEA, made in His Majesty’s Ship Hecia, in 1820,

with Dr. Wollaston’s Dip Sector.

ON THE DIP OF THE HORIZON AT SEA.

ciii

Ihe Tabular Dip is taken from Mendoza Rios. The Observers were Captain Parry, Lieutenant Beechey, Mr. Ross, and Captain Sabine.

APPENDIX V.

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS.

; ' I-

/

,y.

r^.

v.r'vg-'Ai'. ^‘a m nyvcibjij^a-gff;

''i V >'•:.< '»V-i'‘v;':f w<’V/ rfo.-.i ■ ■ : liK i,

..

’ (t’i'eYr ^ .

'■'■['' } V'l. '' i'' ; .i'.' • ^ ‘'li ■> '■■'>’>■ I

: ;• by.' '.iiiab /i io .tf:';':>ri! v

,.' • •% f '1 ' - . - ' r J /'* »*••• '.•‘' ‘

•' ■ > 'Y i'S y y - v s ^ T^g vy';' '-./■ 'r^v

.

■ '

1 <>.! »’.;if.M ..Jl':

U(.'

■ .tl# <UIW ' :^dftVOAV/'i "'rit

ji;: : ,^^u-.V' 's- v-' -. .r

■ ■ .'•) > ’’t},'- ■’•' ' ,’ ‘ .' ■'. ' 'K‘

■ ' "■ ■*:;' ' '■ ■' ■ '

■ /

• ,. V . , , 'Yf YiiS:

■' ‘ {

• i''-'.- • v^w' ‘ ' '

A] *>'V'

»> M <,* <!<

-i'

‘ ' ,> '

m

. r •■■''f- ■ ■■

>'■•'■ 'f

,, ,;'fe4’": ■ ■■• ■ ' ' . ■

•, . ■■ V ■>. '■f:^*»^' ' ■ ' • ^<;:''V.■';>d^■ ■'-••■'' ■'

■■.■.' ^': rV:. ;d ■ ■ ■ • -

v:' ,::

Ani!alrnflBW r I.' .■.*''' b* ; • "■*'* '.,*»:.'i • ' '

' ' ^ ‘'b . ■ . ’ , , J

evil

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIP.

The Dipping Needle employed in these Observations was the Property of
Henry Browne, Esq., F.R.S., and is the same which was used in the Voyage
of Discovery in 1818. An Account of the Observations which were then
made with it has been published in the Philosophical Transactions for 1819,
where the Instrument itself and the mode of Observation are fully described.

The Adjustment of the Dipping Needle to the Plane of the Magnetic
Meridian, by means of a detached Compass placed at a distance, having
been found occasionally inconvenient, a Box containing an horizontal Needle
and Card was fitted to the Instrument itself, previous to the present Expe-
dition ; the Box was removable when the Adjustment was effected.

O

CVlll

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS

ON

THE DIP.

No. of

1819

Latitude

Longitude

Observer

Obser-

vations.

Dip

REMARKS.

0

/

0

/

Capt. Sabine

0

/

March

51

31 N

00

08 w

16

70

33.27 N

Regent^s Park, London.

f

Capt. Parry

12

83

04.36

1 Davis’ Strait ; on ice moving in azimuth. The in-
> strument frequent!)’ re-aajusted to the magnetic

1 meridian.

June 26

64

00

61

50

Capt. Sabine

12

83

04.45

July 17

72

00

60

00

Capt. Sabine

12

84

14.9

BafHn’s Bay, on ice

r

Capt. Parry

12

86

03.29

1

31

73

31

77

22

Capt. Sabine

12

86

04.19

>0n the beach, Possession Bay.

Aug. 7

72

45.15

89

41

Capt. Sabine

12

88

26.71

On the beach, East coast of Regent’s Inlet.

T

Capt. Parry

12

88

24.92

On ice moving in azimuth ; at the close of the obser-

11

72

57

89

30 <

y vatious the instrument was inclined 15® to the mag-

Capt. Sabine

12

88

25.42

1 netic meridian.

r

Capt. Parry

12

87

35.74

1

15

73

33

88

18 \

1 On the beach, north side of Barrow's strait., under

J Limestone Cliffs, 600 or 700 feet high .

1

Capt. Sabine

12

87

36.16

28

75

10

103

44

Capt. Sabine

12

88

25.58

On Byam Martin’s Island .

30

74

55

104

12

Capt. Sabine

12

88

29.12

f On ice, 7 miles from the laud, 400 j'ards from the
t ship.

Sept. 6

74

47

110

34

Capt. Sabine

12

88

29.91

fOn the*;beach, Bay of the Hecla and Griper ; wind
t high with sand drift, observations indifferent.

11

74

27

111

42

Capt. Sabine

12

88

36.95

Melville Island.

N0V.I&2

Capt. Sabine

12

88

37.041

1820

July 17

Capt. Sabine

12

88

43.99

74

47

110

48 -!

^Observatory, Winter Harbour.

18

Capt. Sabine

12

88

43.4

19

Capt. Sabine

12

88

43.1

Sept. 17

68

30

64

21

Capt. Sabine

14

84

21.42

On ice in Dayis* Strait.

Dec. 28

51

43

00

14

Capt. Sabine

12

70

33.5

Near London.

CIX

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION,

MADE ON SHORE, OR ON THE ICE, AT A SUFFICIENT DISTANCE FROM THE SHIPS TO
BE BEYOND THE INFLUENCE OF THE IRON WHICH THEY CONTAINED.

The Azimuth Compasses used in these Observations were of Captain
Rater’s improved construction, whereof four were supplied to the Hecla,
being numbered from 1 to 4, and are referred to accordingly.

These Compasses were originally constructed for the Voyage of Discovery
in 1818, and are described in the Philosophical Transactions for 1819 ; a further
improvement having been made in them during the equipment of this Expedi-
tion, the following particulars are added to the former Description : —

A Needle, in figure and size as represented below, has been substituted

for the straight Needle ; the Card is as before, with the addition of four talc
Vanes fixed beneath and perpendicular to it, and at right angles to each
other ; these are designed to check the Vibrations, and to cause the Needle
to settle more speedily, by reason of the resistance which they experience
from the air in the Compass-Box ; the Needle, Card, and Vanes, with the
Agate Cup and Screws, weigh altogether 173| grains.

The Compass was placed, during Observations, on a Brass Plate, furnished
with Foot Screws by which it was adjusted horizontally, as shewn by a
spirit level ; thus the perpendicularity of the Sight Vane was ensured ; a cir-
cumstance to which it is necessary to be particularly attentive with these

O 2

cx

APPENDIX.

Compasses ; the Brass Plate and Compass were usually placed on a Copper-
fastened Stool,

Unless where a particular notice is made in the Column of Remarks, the
Variations are the results of Observations at suitable hours of the Magnetic
Bearing of the Sun’s Centre, (corrected for a small Index Error of the
Compass, determined for each respectively by Captain Kater himself,) com-
pared with the true Azimuth deduced either from corresponding Altitudes,
or from the time of the Observation being noted by ^ Watch, whose Error on
Mean Time was known.

The latter method is said to be but rarely practised at Sea ; it may, how-
ever, frequently be of service when the former and ordinary one is inappli-
cable ; good opportunities will sometimes occur of observing the Sun’s
Magnetic Azimuth, when the Horizon is either uncertain from Fog, or inter-
cepted by Land, and when consequently the Altitude cannot be observed ;
moreover, in laying down a Coast by Astronomical Bearings whilst running
along it, a knowledge of the Sun’s Azimuth is frequently desired, not only at
the times when it cannot be obtained from the Altitude by reason of the
causes beforementioned, but also, and more commonly, at others when the
Sun’s Motion in Altitude is too slow to enable the bearing to be deduced from
it with sufficient correctness ; on such occasions the instant of Observation
being noted by a Chronometer, or a steady-going Watch, whose Error on
Time may be ascertained at a more suitable part of the day, (the difference
of Longitude caused by the Ship’s intermediate run being allowed,) the
Azimuth may be deduced corresponding to the Observation.

There are some respects also in which this method is preferable at all times
to the more usual one ; the Observation is made, generally, in much less
time ; and the observer is independent of an assistant, since he can note the
time of his own Observation himself both conveniently and accurately, and
he has thus the additional advantage of depending on himself alone for the
correctness of both the observed elements.

. It appears desirable, therefore, that in works on Practical Navigation^
which purpose to contain short and convenient Rules for all such Calculations
as are most useful at Sea, a method of deducing the Azimuth from the Hour
Angle should be given, as well as from the Altitude.

The Mean of several Observations, usually from six to twelve, was taken
for each Result ; the Compass being removed and directed afresh between
every Observation.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION

CXI

— _____

ABSTRACT of OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION, made on Shore, or on the Ice.

1819

Latitude

Longitude

Obser-

ver

Com-

pass

VARIATION

REMARKS

AVEST

o /

Q *

4

O / //

O / //

p

48 44 15 '

B

3

48 41 30

On Ice.

June 19

59 49 N

48 09 w <!

H

48 38 21

1

1

2

48 16 26

!

t

S

2

48 51 12

f

P

2

61 14 41

P

2

61 15 04

26

63 58

61 50

B

3

61 01 20

61 U 31

JOn ice, 220 yards dis-
( tant from the ship.

H

3

61 25 44

S

3

61 00 45

r

1

B

1

60 13 00 I

27

63 44

61 59 i

1

H

1

60 25 09

^ 60 20 12

On ice.

1

L

S

1

60 22 27 .

r

P

4

62 04 00 -j

30

63 26

62 09

\

P

4

61 53 42

• 61 50 12

(On ice, 200 yards dis-
1 tant from the ship.

1

B

3

61 32 54 J

r

H

3

60 09 16

62 08

H

1

60 07 47

■ 60 55 48

fOn ice, 200 yards dis-
1 tant from the ship.

63 29

S

1

61 55 27

s

2

61 30 40

July 15

70 29

59 12

s

3

74 39 00

74 39 00

On an iceberg.

f

p

3

80 11 40

B

3

80 06 30

59 56

H

4

81 40 18

(On ice, 200 vaids dis-

17

72 00

H

1

81 02 58

1 80 55 27

1 tant from the ship.

S

4

81 31 42

s

1

80 59 35

p

2

82 52 24

p

2

81 42 32

B

2

82 44 08

23

73 1)5

60 114 -

H

H

2

4

81 52 39

80 36 33

> 82 02 40

fOn ice, 250 yards dis-
1 tant from the ship.

S

4

80 50 18

s

2

82 46 44

s

82 56 00

*

The Asterisks in the column entitled “ Compass,” denote that the Observations were made with

the Variation Transit Instrument.

CXii APPENDIX.

ABSTRACT of OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION, made on

Shore,

or on the Ice, continued.

1819

Latitude

Longitude

Obser-

ver

Com-

pass

VARIATION

REMARKS

AVEST

O /

0 / r

o

/

// -A

0

/

//

p

1

81

40

51

B

1

82

34

50

H

1

82

39

10

July 23

S

s

1

82

48

23

fOn ice, 250 yards dis-
|tant from the ship.

73 03 N

60 12^ w<

82

51

26

• 82

37

30

s

82

54

07

s

82

45

24

s

*

82

43

33

s

82

39

45

r

p

3

81

21

IS

p

2

81

43

49

B

2

81

49

00

B

2

82

09

00

B

3

81

45

39

24

H

1

81

35

52

- 81

34

(On ice, 250 yards dis-

73 0

60 09 J

H

2

81

34

24

00

|tant from the ship.

H

1

81

43

25

S

2

81

48

00

s

*

81

08

57

s

81

OS

07

s

if

81

00

37 .

p

2

108

51

28

p

2

108

43

06

31

73 31

77 221 J

s

2

108

47

20

■108

46

35

Possession Bay.

s

2

108

32

00

s

2

108

59

03

H

1

107

01

08 ■

Aug. 3

74 25

80 08

H

s

2

1

107

107

12

08

43

36

■106

58

05

(On an iceberg in Bar-
1 row’s Strait.

s

2

106

29

52

B

2

118

47

55

B

1

119

05

00

H

1

117

05

44

fEast Coast of Regent’s

7

72 45

89 41

>118

16

27

j Inlet ; 100 yards from

H

2

117

24

18

uhe sea.

I.- ■■

s

1

118

57

20

- - -

■

s

2

118

18

24

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION

CXlll

ABSTRACT of OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION

, made on

Shorek, or on the Ice, continued.

1819

Latitude

Longitude

Obser-

ver

Com-

pass

VARIATION

REMARKS

WEST

o /

0

/

o

o

r

1

p

1

115

15

26

Aug. 13

1

B

1

114

IS

30

On ice.

73 11 N

89

22|\v.j

H

■114

16

43

1

113

59

58

1

S

1

113

33

00

P

2

115

23

27 1

P

2

115

35

20

P

2

116

22

59

H

2

115

43

40

H

2

116

04

23

15

73 33

H

2

114

30

45

fOn the beach; east

88

18

I-I

2

114

46

56

j.115

37

12

|coast of Regent’s Inlet.

H

2

116

20

29

H

2

116

04

21

S

2

115

45

04

s

2

115

25

15

s

2

115

23

45

22

74 40

91

47 \

H

2

128

43

54

■128

58

07

[On the beach ; at Cape

i

s

2

129

12

20

iRiley.

EAST.

28

75 09

103

441 1

s

s

2

2

165

166

32

08

00

18

■165

50

09

[S.E. point of Byam
[Martin’s Island.

B

1

159

00

30

B

2

156

57

07

Sept. 1

H

1

159

06

05

75 03

105

541 J

H

T58

04

13

On ice.

2

156

50

44

S

1

159

18

20

s

2

157

12

30

p

2

155

51

32

74 58

107

H

2

148

53

21

.151

30

03

rOn Melville Island,

2

03

S

2

150

16

00

[near Point Ross.

s

2

150

59

20

[On the beach, in the

6

74 47

no

34

s

1

126

17

18

126

17

18

[Bay of the Hecla and

p

1

118

50

00

'Griper.

15

74 28

111

42

p

2

119

16

36

.117

52

22

[On the beach, Melville

s

1

117

24

18

(Island.

s

2

115

58

35

CXIV

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS to determine the VARIATION, during an Excursion into the Interior of

Melville Island, North Georgia.

1820

Latitude

Longitude

Obser-

ver

Com-

pass

EAST VARIATION

REMARKS

o / //

o / //

o / // O / //

June 3

75 06 52 N

110 27 40 w

p

2

129 22 59 V

[l28 30 14

75 06 52

no 27 40

s

2

127 37 30 3

7

75 34 47

110 35 52

p

2

135 03 58 )

[l35 03 55

75 34 47

110 35 52

s

2

135 03 52 3

11

75 12 50

111 51 54

p

2

125 01 52 1

1-125 15 22

75 12 50

111 51 54

s

2

125 28 53 3

12

75 05 18

111 56 58

p

2

122 59 37 )

J-123 47 58

59

75 05 18

111 56 58

s

2

124 36 20 3

13

75 02 37

111 37 10

s

2

126 01 48 126 01 48

15

74 48 33

111 11 49

p

2

123 16 01 )

[l23 05 30

9>

74 48 33

111 11 49

s

2

122 55 00 3

VARIATION AT WINTER HARBOUR

CXV

OBSERVATIONS to determine the Variation at Winter Harbour, Melville Island,
Latitude 74° 47' 13" N., Longitude 110° 49' 0" W.

1819 and 1820

Com-

Thermo-

ver

servations

pass

Barometer

meter

Variation, East

REMARKS

October 25

p

5

1

IN.

30.13

0

+ 14

o

126

27

2^

1 to 3 P.M.

p

5

2

. . .

127

13

00

p

5

4

. . .

128

14

12

9J

s

5

1

. . .

125

58

00

99

s

5

2

126

45

00

99

s

5

4

. . •

126

45

00

November

B

6

4

. . .

—37

127

51

00

1820, January 26,

s

7

1

29.70

—34

126

36

25

at 1 P.M.

s

7

1

29.70

—34

126

09

00

27, 2 P.M.

s

7

2

29.90

-38

126

54

00

April 28, 7-|-a.m.

p

5

3

30.73

— 2

126

54

00

f

p

5

2

30.51

+ 9

127

57

00

5 to 6 p.m.<

1

p

3

3

. . .

. . .

128

19

20

April

B

5

2

. . .

+ 4

126

13

00

99

B

3

3

. . .

. . .

127

34

00

July 24, 9^ A.M.

P

9

1

29.70

+ 43

128

13

47

These observations

9.55

P

9

3

. . .

to

128

33

52

are the difference
between the true

10.35

P

9

1

. . .

+ 47

127

49

53

and magnetic

11

P

9

1

. . .

. . .

128

51

00

O ! t!

bearing of a me-
ridian mark.

11.20

P

9

1

• . .

. . .

128

08

13

\ 127 47 50

11.40

P

7

1

127

37

26

The Compasses

July 25,

were removed, di-

P

9

1

29.56

+ 48

128

38

13

rected, and le-

10 to 11-|- A.M.

P

9

1

to

127

48

47

veiled afresh, be-
tween every ob-

99

P

9

2

. . .

+43

128

03

00

servation.

99

P

9

2

. . .

. . .

127

45

47

99

P

9

1

. . .

. . .

127

36

33

99

P

9

1

. . .

. . .

127

51

33

99

P

9

2

. . .

. . .

128

30

47

99

P

9

2

. . .

. . .

128

11

53

99

P

9

2

. . .

. . .

127

50

58

99

P

9

1

. . .

. • .

128

18

58

July 27,

S

10

2

29.76

+ 39

127

33

50

4 to 8 A.M.

s

10

1

. . .

. . .

128

21

15

99

s

10

2

. . •

. • .

128

05

05

99

s

10

1

. . .

. . .

127

50

00

99

s

10

2

. . .

. . .

127

37

02

99

s

10

1

• • •

. • •

127

19

50

July

B

5

1

. . .

+ 37

130

45

bo

B

4

3

• • •

. . .

130

05

00^

P

CXVl

APPENDIX.

The hours have been noticed at which the preceding observations were
made, because the results obtained at different times of the day agree suffi-
ciently with each other, to justify an inference, that no very considerable
diurnal change took place in the direction of the needle.

A Variation Needle, made by Mr. Dollond, being the property of Henry
Browne, Esq. F. R. S., who was kind enough to spare it for the occasion, had
been embarked with the other instruments ; it had been used in England to
observe the amount of the hourly changes in the variation, which it did with
much accuracy; but the needle being nearly a foot in length, and being
suspended in the customary manner, by an agate cup on a metal point, the
friction on the point was too great to be overcome by the directive power of
magnetism, when the dip had increased to 88° or 89°; the instrument was
therefore quite useless at Winter Harbour.

It may indeed be justly regarded with surprise, that under so great a
diminution of the magnetic influence, any compass should have still been found
to traverse ; and it is therefore deserving of especial notice, that even in such
extreme circumstances, Captain Kater’s excellent compasses, when used on
shore, and with patience and attention to frequent tapping, indicated the
meridian with very tolerable precision ; the greatest difference of any two in
ten observations not exceeding between three and four degrees.

The inference which has been drawn above, that the diurnal changes were not
very considerable, may be strengthened by a remark, that had they been so they
could scarcely have failed to have been observed by the instrument for ascer-
taining the intensity of the magnetic force, which was frequently left for days
together in the observatory, and carefully watched. The needle of this instru-
ment was suspended by a silk line within a graduated ring ; and, though not
equal to the measurement of small changes, would certainly have shewn them
had they exceeded a degree in amount.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION.

CXVll

OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION made on Shore, or on Ice, during the Navigation of 1 820.

Obser*

Com-

1820

Latitude

Longitude

ver

pass

VARIATION

REMARKS

EAST

o

/

o

/

o

If

o

/

//

Aug. 5

74

24 N

112

53 w

p

3

112

20

47

[no

56

11

On Melville Island.

15

74

24

112

53

s

3

109

31

35

)

10

74

28

113

48

p

2

103

15

62

>5

74

26

113

48

B

2

108

05

20

15

74

28

113

48

B

2

107

09

0

?5

74

26

113

48

B

2

107

59

20

•106

06

38

On Melville Island.

95

74

26

113

48

S

2

105

05

0

11

74

26

113

48

P

2

104

45

24

55

.74

26

US

48

B

2

106

11

13

95

74

26

113

48

S

2

106

22

00

17

74

25

112

41

P

2

115

36

51

55

74

25

112

41

P

2

114

50

10

95

74

25

112

41

B

2

110

01

25

99

74

25

112

41

B

2

110

27

15

95

74

25

112

41

H

2

111

05

46

99

74

25

112

41

H

2

109

S3

20

.111

19

15

fOn Melville Island, West

95

74

25

112

41

S

2

111

30

0

1 of Cape Providence.

99

74

25

112

41

S

2

111

05

0

18

74

25

112

41

P

2

111

29

37

99

74

25

112

41

P

2

113

01

20

99

74

25

112

41

P

2

110

54

30

99

74

25

112

41

P

2

107

48

10

99

74

25

112

41

P

2

107

47

40

25

74

27

112

11

P

2

115

56

50 1

A14

34

45

On Melville Island.

99

74

27

112

11

s

2

113

12

40 J

WES'..''

Sept. 3

99

71

71

16

16

71

71

18

18

H

S

2

2

90

92

54

03

05

00 !

. 91

28

32

fOn the West Coast of
{Davis’ Strait.

7

70

22

68

37

P

2

81

02

31 .

f At the Esquimaux Huts, in

70

22

68

37

P

2

81

21

14

!- 80

59

17

■(the Inlet called the River

99

70

22

68

37

s

2

80

34

05 .

[Clyde.

CXVlll

APPENDIX.

OBSERVATIONS

ON THE VARIATION, AND ON THE IRREGULARITIES IN THE DIRECTION OP THE
NEEDLE, OCCASIONED BY THE ATTRACTION OF THE SHIp’s IRON ;

MADE ON BOARD II. M. S. THE HECLA, 1819—1820.

In the course of these observations, two objects were designed to be
kept in view ; it was requisite, first, for the purposes of navigation,
that the amount of the variation on the courses steered by the ship should
be known, that her true direction might be deduced from that indicated by
the compass ; and secondly, to these necessary observations, it was desired
to add such as could be made without material inconvenience or delay with
the ship’s head placed on other points than those of her immediate courses,
for the purpose of exemplifying more extensively than had been done
heretofore, the irregularities which take place in the direction of compass
needles, in consequence of the attraction of the iron contained in ships.

Experience in the voyage of the Isabella and Alexander in 1818, had
shewn the necessity in high magnetic latitudes of adopting an expedient
originally suggested by Captain Flinders, vk., the selection of some one
spot in the ship as the permanent position of a standard compass, in which
it should be invariably placed for use, whether in observing azimuths, or
bearings of land, or in directing the ship’s course ; and that if on any
particular occasion, it should be necessary to use a compass in any other
part of the ship, a reference should be made to the standard by comparison,
and the difference (if any) in its pointing noted and allowed for ; a certain
degree of uniformity being found to obtain in the effects of the local
attraction on a compass thus confined to one spot, enabling a navigator
by occasional observations and the aid of such practical rules as former ex-
periments had suggested, to form a sufficiently correct judgment of the
different amounts of variation to be allowed with it on each change in the
direction of the ship’s head. It was considered, that a series of observa-
tions, shewing the uniform nature of these effects on a standard compass
might prove of service, in confirming and giving confidence to the inferences
which had been drawn from former experiments, and might possibly conduce
towards an improvement of the rules which had been founded on their results.

Moreover, as it was known that the amount of irregularity on each and

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION.

CXIX

every direction of the ship’s head varies (all other circumstances remaining the
same) as the dip of the needle increases or diminishes, and in a ratio of
which it would be desirable to afford a practical exemplification, it was
essential that the local attraction influencing the compass used in the obser-
vations made for this purpose in different parts of the world, should be
preserved, as far as might be possible, uniform and steady both in its direc-
tion and in its absolute force ; in which case, and in which alone, the increase
or decrease of its effects on the needle could be taken as the measure of its
alteration in relative strength to the directive power of the earth’s magnetism,
proportioned to changes in the amount of dip ; and so far as this steadiness
of local attraction can be maintained on board a ship, it can only be with
a compass used always in one and the same spot.

Accordingly whilst the Hecla was fitting at Deptford, Captain Parry se-
lected a position for a standard compass ; a three-legged copper-fastened
stool was placed exactly amidships on the gun-room sky-light, the legs being
properly secured by elects ; the middle of the stool was bored to receive the
central pivot of Walker’s azimuth compass-box; the height at which the
compass was thus supported was as great as the convenience of an observer
standing on the sky-light would admit, being dy feet, or six feet two inches
altogether above the deck ; this elevation was considered as advantageous,
not only as it gave the compass a greater command over objects to which it
could be directed, but also as it diminished the liability to occasional dis-
turbance from implements and other moveable iron, which were necessarily
kept on deck, and which were thus brought so far beneath the horizontal
suspension of the needle, as to have their influence greatly lessened when not
altogether destroyed.

As an additional precaution, much care was taken whilst the ship was
fitting, to substitute copper instead of iron work and fastenings, to as great
an extent around the position of the compass as could be done with pro-
priety. And at Captain Parry’s request, brass guns were supplied for the
after-part of the Hecla’s deck, instead of the iron ones, which were part of
her equipment.

On the 4th of May the fitting of the ship being completed, her stores em-
barked and distributed according to the disposition in which it was designed
they should remain, a course of experiments were made at Northfleet in the
River Thames, to ascertain the effects produced by the iron she had on
board on the standard compass.

cxx

APPENDIX.

EXPERIMENTS AT NORTHFLEET, May 4, 1819.

One of Captain Kater’s Azimuth Compasses being taken on Shore, was
so placed as to have the Ship and a distant Steeple on the opposite side of the
River in one, whence the true Magnetic Bearing of the Steeple from the
Ship was found, on repeated Trials, N 83° 30' E. The Ship’s Head was
then warped successively on each Point of the Compass, (excepting on the
West, W. by S., and W. S. W., the Wind and Tide not permitting her to
remain on those Points,) and the Bearing of the Steeple noted by the Ship’s
Standard Compass.

Ship’s Head

Bearing of
Steeple

Difference from |
he true Magnetic,
bearing |

Ship’s Head

Bearing of
Steeple

Difference from
he true Magnetic
bearing

North

N 83 45 E

O /

0 15 E.

South

N 84 00 E

0 30 E

N.by E.

N 82 30 E

1 0 W.

S. by w.

N 84 30 E

1 00

N.N.E.

N 81 30 E

2 0

s.s.w.

N 84 30 E

1 00

N.E. by N.

N so 50 E

2 40

S.W. by S.

N 85 00 E

1 30

N.E.

N 79 15 E

4 15

S.W.

N 85 15 E

1 45

N.E. by E.

N 79 25 E

4 05

S.W. by W.

N 86 30 E

3 00

E.N.E.

N 79 30 E

4 0

W.S.W.

E. by N.

N 78 49 E

4 41

W. by S.

Points not
observed

East

N78 49 E

4 41

West

E. by S.

N79 45 E

3 45

W. by N.

N 87 45 E

4 15

E.S.E.

N SO 15 E

3 15

W.N.W.

N 87 00 E

3 30

S.E. by E.

N 80 45 E

2 45

N.W. by W.

N 86 30 E

3 00

S.E.

N 83 00 E

1 30

N.W.

N 86 15 E

2 45

S.E. by S.

N 82 15 E

1 15

N.W. by N.

N85 55 E

2 25

S.S.E.

N83 15 E

0 15

N.N.W.

N 85 45 E

2 15

S. by E.

N 84 00 E

0 30 E.

N. by W.

N 84 i5!>E

2 45

Dip of the Needle 70° 30'

N.

EXPERIMENTS AT NORTHFLEET.

CXXl

It was evident from these experiments that the common centre of attrac-
tion of the ship’s iron was forward and very nearly a-midships ; and that conse-
quently, when the ship’s head was north or south by the compass, the direc-
tion of the earth’s magnetism and of the local attraction coinciding, the
compass indicated the true magnetic bearing of objects.

The true variation of the Needle, therefore, could be at all times ascertained
by azimuths observed with the ship’s head on either of those points ; when
the error with which the result might be affected from local attraction
might be reasonably expected not to exceed the other incidental errors to
which such observations are necessarily liable.

It was also seen that the greatest deviation took place when the ship’s
head was on the east or west points, or in other words, when the two
attractions were at right angles to each other; and that it diminished
regularly as the direction of the local attraction approached that of the
magnetic meridian.

It may be remarked indeed of these, as it has been of similar observations
made in the former voyage, that the errors on the points equidistant from
north or south (or from the line of no error) do not in all instances exactly
correspond ; the discordancies are, however, within the limit of inaccuracies
arising from accidental causes ; such as the motion of the ship ; the difficulty
of retaining her head steadily and precisely on the required point ; the
imperfection of the compass itself, and especially of its graduation which
is rarely carried to a smaller division than 20 minutes. These causes
are sufficient to defeat an attempt at precision in compass bearings observed
from ships, without including the parallax on warping the vessel round,
which ought to be prevented by the distance of the selected object.

With the knowledge thus acquired of the points of greatest deviation, and
of those on which none took place, and with occasional azimuth observations
from time to time, as opportunities presented themselves, the irregularities
in the direction of the compass proceeding from the ship’s iron, occasioned
no other practical inconvenience in her navigation, than a little additional
trouble in computing the day’s works.

Whenever it could be done, the variation on a particular course steered
was ascertained by actual observation ; but where the courses were many
in the 24 hours, one set of azimuths with the ship’s head on the north or
south points shewing the true variation, and a second set, with her head
either on the east or west points shewing the maximum of disturbance, were

CXXll

APPENDIX.

sufficient with a very little practice to enable the variation to be assigned for
every point of the compass, without a reference to tables or to computation,
and with quite as much accuracy as was necessary for the practical purposes
of navigation, which, as the compass was not referred to in surveying, the
position of all lands being determined by astronomical bearings, was, in fact,
its only use on board.

CXXlll

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION,

MADE AT SEA IN H. M. S. HECLA, 1819.

The Compasses used in these Observations were placed invariably on the
stand which has been described as the position of a standard Compass.

Walker’s Azimuth Compass was used, unless where it is otherwise noted
in the column of Remarks.

The Latitudes and Longitudes are of the place of Observation, and were
deduced by the Ship’s Log from the nearest observed.

The Initials in the column specifying the Observer, are those of Captain
Parry, Lieutenant Beechey, Mr. Hooper, and of Captain Sabine.

CXXIV

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS on

the VARIATION, made at Sea, in H. M. S. Hecla, 1819.

Obser.

1819

Latitude

LoDgitude

Ship’s Head

ver

VARIATION, WEST

REMARKS

O /

o /

f

p

O /

25 42*^

May 18

57 09 N

1 02 w

N.iE.

B

26 27

-26 38

[

H

27 45.

N.N.E.

f

P

27 02-

19

58 24

1 25

\

B

^27 08

1

27 15,

1

P

36 19-

P

35 56

21

59 26

4 50

W.N.W.

<

B

36 39

-36 22

S

36 22

S

36 33.

P

37 32-

P

37 55

22

59 00

7 26

W.N.W.

•*

B

38 31

-38 14

H

38 37

S

38 38.

P

40 23l

P

40 37

24

57 42

14 16

W.N.W.

-

B

40 39

-40 47

Amplitude.

B

41 32

S

40 46.

r

P

42 31

16 30

B

43 11

25

57 17

W.N.W.

H

42 50

-43 00

S

43 27

[

N.W.

P

45 12

27

56 52

23 40

N.W.byN.

B

43 20-

4<3 33

1

(

S

43 46.

North

B

41 20

57 22

25 12 ,

f

P

39 20

1

28

N.byE.

]

^39 34

t

S

39 49.

N.N.E.

H

39 29

31

58 14

30 27

N.W.^W.

H

51 12

P

38 26'

P

39 09

June 4

55 01

35 27

N.E.

H

S-38 14

37 45

H

37 37.

ON THE VARIATION AT SEA.

CXXV

OBSERVATIONS on the Variation, made at Sea, in H. M, S. Hecla, 1819, continued.

1819

June 5

9

10

10

11

11

11

13

Latitude

Longitude

Ship’s Head.

Obser-

ver

VARIATION, WEST

REMARKS

o /

O /

O /

0

f

B

41 27-1

N.W.byN. \

42 35

H

43 43.

55 03 N

36 OOw-i

f

P

42 461

N.N.W. \

42 27.5

1

H

42 09J

S.W.IS.

S

46 37

s.w.

H

47 17

55 48

37 1^

w.s.w.

P

48 08

West

B

50 20

P

51 44'

P

51 18

B

52 14

55 42

37 53

W.byN.

I5I 31

H

51 10

H

50 53

S

51 45,

P

45 00'

P

44 56

56 08

38 00

North .

H

44 23

.44 49

H

44 29

S

45 20.

P

38 44'

P

39 22

55 46

38 09

N.N.E.

B

38 57

.39 40

H

40 58

S

40 18.

56 09

40 00

North

H

43 02

56 37

40 22

N.byW.

P

47 04

f

B

46 40-]

56 39

40 22

N.byW.|W. J

H

47 49

.47 18

1

S

47 26.

1

P

45 44'

B

46 50

North

j.46 29

H

46 41

L

S

46 43

57 55

40 57 .

P

38 08'

B

39 20

(Observations of this day

East

H

40 25

.39 36

Jvery good.

1

S

39 30^

!

q 2

CXXVl

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS on the Variation, made at Sea, in H. M.. S. Hecla, 1819, continued.

REMARKS.

1819

LatUnde

Longitude

Ship’s head

ver

VARIATION, WEST

O /

O /

p

o /

45 42-

0 /

South

B

46 47

•46 40.5

rObservations of this day

H

47 05

(very good.

June 13

57 55

40 57

S

47 08

P

52 04'

B

52 23

i.

w.s.w. ]

H

52’ 42

■52 17

S

51 59

r

N.W.byW.iW.

S

53 35

N.W.byW.

H

52 01

14

57 42

41 30 .

B

50 37

N.W.iW.

L

N.W.

P

50 07

r

P

54 47]

• B

54 37

57 30

42 12

W.N.W. ’

H

53 51

^54 30

S

54 45]

f

B

55 43-

f

N.W.IW. J

H

55 22

>55 32

16

58 11

48 20

1

i

S

55 31,

1

L

N.W.iN.

P

54 15

17

58 19

48 29

N.E.byN.

s

45 59

58 29

48 25

N.E.fN.

H

45 43

»

58 42

48 21

N.E:|N.

P

45 53

9?

58 43

48 21

N.E.iN.

B

45 27

99

58 39

48 21

N.E.fN.

S

45 23

19

59 49

48 09

North ■!

H

49 13

149 1S.5

fDuring a calm ; true va-
nation observed on the

(

S

49 i4

I

[ice 48° 38',

N.byW.iW.

S

59 21

21

61 24

54 45 •

N.byW.fW.
N.byW. j

' P

B

57 40

58 38

I58 50

Much motion.

H

59 03

)

1

N.byW.

p

62 36

23

62 45

61 39 -

B

61 19

I

N.|W. .

B

H

61 20

>61 26

60 57

62 07

ON THE VARIATION AT SEA

CXXVll

OBSERVATIONS on the Variation, made at Sea, ia H. M. S. Hecla, 1819, continued.

1819 ■

Latitude

Longitude

Ship’s Head

Obser-

ver

VARIATION, WEST

o /

0 /

O /

r

p

49 49-1

0 /

[

N.N.E. 1

H

50 17*

^50 11

June 23

62 50 N

61 40w«!

1

S

50 29.

1

N.N.E.I-E.

B

50 SO

24

63 .30

61 43

E.N.E.

H

45 44

f

N.10°E.

B

58 48

26

64 00

61 50 ^

r

P

54 29'|

1

1

N.byE.iE. 1

H

55 43.

■55 06

28

63 40

62 10

N.59°E.

B

49 11

P

47 52'

P

47 44

SO

63 26

62 08

N.86°E. j

Us 05

B

48 25

S

48 20

f

P

49 01'

July 1

64 01

60 55

E.N.E. \

[49 14.5

i

B

49 28,

??

64 00

60 55

N.81°E.

H

48 49

(

P

50 28

64 02

59 45

East

Uo 39

1

B

50 51.

64 04

60 50

E.iS.

S

51 11

5

66 50

57 12

E.byS.

P

51 59

f

N.byW.^W.

B

71 30

f

H

69 21

6

67 42

57 85 -

N.byW. 1

H

70 02

‘69 41.5

N.9°W.

P

72 43

N.iW.

S

69 43

r

P

57 08'

95

67 49

57 55

E.N.E. \

>58 38.5

1

B

60 09.

59

67 52

57 56

East

S

60 42

r

P

60 ll'i

7

68 21

57 02 1

N.E.byN. ]

B

f60 15

60 I9J

i

f

H

55 44'

1

t

N.70°E. \

^55 51

1

H

55 58.

59 ■

68 29

57 06

N.19°E.

S

67 13

P

64 19'

(

N.byE. \

^65 10

8

68 28

57 17 <

i

H

66 01.

1

i

N.byE.iE,

B

64 51

REMARKS

■jThe true variation ob-
I served on the ice, in Lat.

I 63° 58', & Long. 61° 50'

J was 61° 11' 30".

j'The true variation observed on
b the ice in Latitude 620 44/^ Longi-
^ tude 610 59^ was 60O 20'.

JTrue variation observed
on the ice 61° 23'.

Needle traversing sluggishly

CXXVlll

APPENDIX.

OBSERVATIONS cn the Variation, made at Sea, in H.M. S, Hecla, 1819, cmtinued.

1819

Latitude

Longitude

July 10

0 /

69 03 N

0 /

57 5S w

14

70 08

58 00

16

70 43

59 25

21

72 56

58 37 1

22

73 13

60 15 1

Ship’s Head

North

N.N.E.AE.

N.E. j

N.byE.
N.N.E. I
N.67 W.
N.2S W,

• 1

Obser-

ver

p

B

B

P

B

H

P

B

H

H

B

H

VARIATION, WEST

67 23-1

^67 49.5

68 164

64 55

69 131

67 34^68 47

69 33]

72 32

70 56 j

71 isi
99 42

71 05.5

92 04)

^91 18.5
90 331

REMARKS

The true variation observ-
J ed on the ice in latitude
1 70° 29', and longitude
159° 12' was 74° 39'.

On the 24th of July, the ship being enclosed by extensive fields of ice, and
having just water sufficient to admit of her head being warped round on the
different points of the compass, a series of Observations were made corre-
sponding to those of the 4th of May, in the River Thames.

The needle of Walker’s Azimuth Compass, which had been hitherto in use,
had now become so sluggish and uncertain in its direction that it was
removed, and a card, which had been sent on trial by Mr. Jennings, patentee
of the Insulating Compasses, substituted in its place ; this card was furnished
with two needles crossing each other at right angles, the division of North
on the card being intermediate between the North Poles of the Needles.
Mr. Jennings had conceived that such a compass might possibly be affected,
by the disturbing influence of the ship’s iron, in a different manner from
other compasses ; but this did not prove the case, its results differing from
those obtained with one of Captain Kater’s Azimuth Compasses, not more
than such observations will differ on repetition, with the same compass in
ships in high magnetic latitudes ; Mr. Jennings’s Card, however, notwithstand-
ing the weight of the two needles, and of the card itself, which was a heavy
one, traversed much better than Mr. Walker’s, and was continued in ordinary
use until the ships had ascended Barrow’s Straits ; when, from the near

ON THE VARIATION AT SEA.

CXXIX

approach to the Magnetic Pole, the Dip exceeding 88°, the directive influence
of the Earth’s Magnetism on the compass needle became insufficient to re-
move it from the direction which it assumed by reason of the attraction of
the ship’s iron, and in which it remained stationary under every change in
the ship’s course.

The Observations with Captain Kater’s and with Mr. Jenning’s compasses
are distinguished by the respective initials K. and J., a Mean of the two being-
taken as the Variation on the different points ; both compasses were used
successively in the same place ; the ship was sufficiently steady to admit of
the use of a Spirit Level to ensure the horizontal adjustment of Captain
Kater’s ; the direction of the ship’s head was determined by a compass in
the binnacle agreeing with those used in obtaining the Results, and frequently
noted to do so during the Observations. The true Variation obtained on the
ice, at a distance from the ship, was 82° 00' by a Mean of Observations on
the 23rd and 24th. The Dip had been observed in latitude 72° 00', and
longitude 60° 15', to be 84° 15', and had probably increased a few minutes
in the ship’s intermediate run.

cxxx

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION, made at Sea in H.

M. S. Hecla, 1819, continued.

1819

Latitude

Longitude

Ship’s Head.

Obser-

ver

VARIATION, WEST

REMARKS

C /

O /

O /

r

N.5°E.

H

94 32 J

July 30

74 01

75 00 \

\

N.N.E.iE.

P

86 47 J

P

104 48 J '

B

108 12 J

30

73 53

75 50

N.byW.iW. J

S106 02

H

106 03 J

S

105 04 K

Aug. 6

73 51

89 07 '

N.15°E.

B

112 23 K

f

N.20°W.

P

137 12 K

7

72 54

90 22 J

N.18°W.

B

132 24 K

N.15°W.

H

132 £8K

OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION

CXXXl

OBSERVATIONS on the VARIATION

, made in H. M. S. the Hecla, 1820.

Date

Latitude

Longitude

Ship’s Head

Obser-

ver

VARIATION,

WEST

REMARKS

o /

o /

o /

Sept. 4

71 10 N

70 42 w

West

p

111 23

71 07

70 42

West

B

110 02

5

70 48

69 00

S.W.iW.

P

100 47

9

69 40

67 15

W.byN.iN.

P

96 07

12

68 18

66 13

S. 30° W.

B

84 29

13

68 15

66 15

N.W.byN.

B

83 15

14

68 24

65 15

S.W.byW.

B

87 57

S.W.byS.

P

80 19

S.W.

P

81 08

S.W.byW.

P

83 10

W.S.W.

P

85 32

W.byS.

P

85 42

15

68 28

63 23

w"

P

87 48

W.byN.iN.

P

89 02

W.N.W.

P

87 16

N.W.byW.

P

88 03

N.W.

P

84 49

W.

B

82 56

w.

P

82 50

22

67 30

58 49 •!

w.

S

S3 31

s.

P

71 07

1

c

s.

s

71 01

23

67 08

58 07

N.W.byW.

p

SO 20

99

67 00

57 47

N.W.iW.

B

79 20

24

66 42

58 56

W.byNiN.

P

82 00

99

66 40

58 29

W.N.W.iW.

B

S3 29

Oct. 4

57 56

42 22

S.E.byE.iE.j

P

B

40 55

41 22

5

58 03

40 47

s.s.w.

P

49 01

10

59 53

34 11

E.§N.

P

39 11

99

59 54

34 08

E.|N.

B

39 04

11

61 09

31 45

S.E.iE.

P

43 53

99

61 08

31 32

S.E.p.

P

43 59

13

60 35

25 36

S.E.byS.

P

40 22

19

57 48

17 50

East

P

30 57

23

58 57

11 37

E.iS.

B

29 36

99

58 56

11 35

E.S.E.

P

29 10

26

59 56

4 28

E.S.E.

P

26 10

99

59 54

4 13

E.iN.

P

24 29

CXXXll

APPENDIX

OBSERVATIONS on the INTENSITY of the MAGNETIC FORCE,

With Mr. BROWNE’S Dipping Needle.

1819, March. In the Regent’s Park, Loudon, Latitude 51° 31' 40" N., Longitude

0° 08' W. Dip 70° 33.'3 N.

IN THE MAGNETIC MERIDIAN.

No. of
Vibrations

Interval

%

>

s

50

C5 GO

CO

N

CO

GO

'

N

N

100

M S

8 01.5

a

100

100

8 08

7 56.5

Arcs

55

40

30

23

17

««5

Gi

CO

CO pH

s

100

8 02

Mean

C 2

o

o o

pH pH

o o

O

O

pH

o

O

o

I— H

PERPENDICULAR

TO THE

MERIDIAN.

No. of
Vibrations

Interval

nterval

s

52

52

49.5

49.5

49

CO

05

48.5

50.5 1

49.5

M S

•

Arcs

o

90

55

40

o <yi ^

CO CN ^

pH

N

0^ PH

100

8 18.5

o|

o

pH

o o

pH

o o

pH

o

O

^H

o

o

pH

o

pH

1820, July. In the Observatory, Winter Harbour, Latitude 74° 47 19' N., Longi-
tude 1 10° 48' 30" W. Dip 88° 43 .'5 N.

IN

THE MAGNETIC MERIDIAN.

No. of
Vibrations

Interval

>

CO

40

CO

40

(N

CO

(N

w

M 06

CO

CO

ffO

CO

CO

'(f

IVl

s

100

7

27.2

100

7

26.5

3

40

40

40

40

40

40

CO

PH CO

CO

40

05

'O

100

7

25.5

0(30

<0

(N

(N

pH

100

7

25.8

a

0

0

0

0

0 0

0

0

0

0

100

7

26.25

Mean

pH

pH

fH ^

PH

pH

^H

>

PERPENDICULAR

TO

THE

MERIDIAN.

No. of
Vibrations

Interval

>

GO

40

CO

o>

40

CO

CO

CO

CO

CO

M

S

100

7

27

3

0°

CO

Vi

N

W

N

CO

0

^05

N

(N

pH

pH

100

7

25.8

Mean

0

0

0

0

0 0

c

0

0

0

100

7

26.4

0 2
'z

1— (

pH

pH

. pH

pH

PH

pH

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAGNETIC FORCE.

CXXXlll

1820, December. In the Regent’s Park, London, Latitude 51° 31' N., I^ougi^ude

0° 08' W. Dip 70° 33'.3 N.

IN THE MAGNETIC MERIDIAN.

No. of
Vibrations

Interval

>

a;

0

0

0

06

CO CO

CO

100

M S

8 02

s

tH

■Sf

100

100

’7 58

8 00

Arcs

0

70

46

i

CO

28

21

to 5}

9

7

5

CO

100

8 00

Mean

0

0

0

0

000

0 0

0

WITH NEEDLES SUSPENDED HORIZONTALLY.

The Needles used in these Experiments were bars of Steel of seven inches
in length, 0.25 in breadth, and 0.15 in thickness, magnetized to saturation
previous to the voyage, and their magnetism not interfered with subsequently.

Three such bars had been provided, numbered from 1 to 3, whereof
Nos. 2 and 3 were kept together when not in use, with their opposite poles
connected; No. 1 was kept by itself.

Each of the Needles successively was placed for use in an instrument
made for the occasion ; consisting of a circular plate of ten inches diameter,
centred as usual, and adjusted horizontally by foot screws, as shewn by
spirit levels fixed at right angles to each other ; a graduated ring, eight
inches in diameter, was attached to the plate, and rose half an inch above it ;
on the outside of the ring were three pillars nine inches in height, bearing a
tripod, from the centre of which, a stirrup was suspended by a silk line.
The needle being slid into the stirrup until it balanced horizontally, and
being left to itself, and the instrument protected from the air by a bell-glass,
it indicated, on settling, the Magnetic Meridian. The brass plate was then

CXXXIV

APPENDIX.

moved in Azimuth until the Zeros of the ring coincided with it, when the
Needle being removed, and a brass bar subsituted in the stirrup, all twist
was taken out of the silk, and the point of suspension adjusted (it having
a motion for that purpose) until the brass bar rested in the same direction as
the Needle had done; the Needle being then replaced, was drawn by a
magnet 60° from its natural direction, released, and suffered to vibrate until
the arcs became too small to be discerned ; the time and arc being noted at
each tenth vibration.

The whole instrument was of brass ; the silk line consisted of as few fibres
of raw silk as were sufficient to support the weight of the Needle’, the length
of the suspension being about nine inches.

May 18 19- On the Sea Beach at Sheerness, Latitude 51° 26' N., Longitude 44° 0' \V.,

Dip of the Needle 60° 55' N.

No. of

Needle 1

Needle

2

Needle .3 .

Vibrations

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

o

I\I

S

0

M

s

o

M

S

o

IVI

s

60

60

60

60

10

48.5

1

39

47

1

34.5

42

1

29.5

44

1

30

10

39

1

37

37.5

1

32.5

33.5

1

27.5

35

1

28

10

32.5

1

37

30.5

1

31.5

26.5

1

26

28.5

1

27

10

27

1

85.5

25

1

30.5

21

1

26

23

1

26

10

23.5

1

35

22

1

31

17

1

25

19

1

26

10

20.5

1

34.5

17.5

1

30

14

1

24.5

18

1

25.2

10

16

1

34.5

12.5

1

30

10

1

24.5

12

1

25.3

10

14.5

1

34.5

12

1

30

7.5

1

25

10.5

1

25

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAGNETIC FORCE

CXXXV

18 19, June 26th. On Ice in Davis’ Strait, Lat. 64° 00' N., Long. 6l° 50' W. distant
222 Yards from the Ships ; Dip, 83° 04' N., by an indifferent Observation.

No. of

Needle 2

Needle 3

Vibrations

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

0

M S

0

M S

0

M S

60

60

60

10

52

2 40

42

2 32

45

2 33

10

44

2 36

34

2 27

37.5

2 29

10

36

2 35

26

2 27

32

2 26

10

32

2 33

24

2 24

23

2 24

10

28

2 32

19

2 24

20

2 24

10

25

2 32

14.5

2 24

16

2 24

10

23

2 32

10.5

2 24

14

2 24

10

21

2 31.5

9

2 24

10.5

2 23.5

I8I9, July 23d and 24th. On Ice in Baffin’s Bay, Lat. 73° N., Long. 6l° 30' N., at a
considerable distance from the Ships ; the Dip was not observed on the spot, but from
other Observations, it must have been about 84° 30'.

No. of
Vibrations

Needle

2

Needle 3

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

Arcs

Interval

0

M

S

0

M

s

0

s

60

60

60

10

2

54

2

40

.2

40

43

31

38

10

2

48

2

34.5

2

34

38

25

27

10

2

47.5

2

32

2

32.5

25

16

16

10

2

45.5

2

32

2

31.5

22

12

8

10

2

44

2

33

2

31.5

20

6

7

10

2

43.5

2

33

2

32

IS

4

6

10

2

43.5

16

10

2

43.5

10

10

2

43

9

10

2

43

8

1819, 1820. At the Observatory, Winter Harbour, Melville Island, Lat. 74° 47' N. ;

cxxxvi

APPENDIX.

OBSERVATIONS AT WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAGNETIC FORCE

CXXXVll

With Needle 2. I

July 10,

4 A.M.

Interval

M S

5 44.5

5 37.5

5 33.5

5 31.5

5 29.5

5 29.5

5 29

With Needle 3.

July 11,

Noon

O N 0^ O 00

50 GQ GQ <5^ P-H

iO XO

Arcs

o

60

43

33

25

18

13

10

7

O 'f 00 05 C5

to ■<?i 00 o-j

July 9,

10 P.M.

Interval

M ,S

5 47.5

5 38.5

5 34.5

5 32

5 29

5 28

1 July 11,

10 A.M.

5 36.5

5 28

5 25

5 22

5 20

5 17

Arcs

„Ot?}O5(MNS0Q0'

O 05 »0 00 G" !>

CO 05 (N f-(

July 9,

9 P.M.

Interval

M S

5 43.5

5 37.5

5 34.5

5 33

5 31

5 28

July 10,

Noon

5 30

5 19

5 17.5

5 16.5

5 16.5

5 13.5

Arcs

o

60

41

31

23

17

13

8

O 05 O <5? 1-0 O aO

CO Tfi CO Gcf I-I

oTg

Interval

M S

!5 45.5

5 39

5 34

5 31.5

5 29.5

5 28

July 10,

10 A.M.

5 32

5 25

5 21.5

5 15

5 13.5

5 13

Arcs

o

60

43

31

23

17

13

8

O 00 Gi ^ ^ i

^ CO GQ Fi 1— (

3 Hoi
•-5 (M
f-H

a

>

s

a

M S

5 45

5 38

5 26.5

5 25

July 10,

9 A.M.-

5 37

5 30.5

5 24

5 22

5 21

5 20

Arcs

o

60

44

28

13

9

O 00 FH CO ^ ^ QO

^ 00 GJ F-4 FH

July 7,
Hi P.M.

Interval

M S

5 46

5 41

5 32

5 30

April 26, 3 to 5 P.M.
Ther. + 5°

5 37

5 29

5 25.5

5 21.5

5 15

Arcs

Q ^ ^ O Q •

^ ;o 50 GQ .

O ® (5} 00 OT • 1

CO GQ OQ F-i /-( .

July 7,
lOi P.M.

Interval

M S

5 49

5 30

5 26

5 26 '

j

5 35.75

5 31.75

5 24.5

5 18.5

5 16.5

Arcs

o

60

39

28

18

11

60

38

25

15.5

12

9

July 7,

7 P.M.

Interval

M S

5 44

5. 33.2

5 26.4

5 26.4

Nov. 5,
Ther. — 8

5 36.5

5 29

5 24.5

5 20

5 16.5

Arcs

o

60

39

30

15

11

60

39

27

22

17.5

10

July 7,

6 P.M.

Interval

III s

5 46

5 31.5

5 28

5 26

Nov. 4,
Ther. Zero.

5 34.5

5 26-

5 20

5 17

i

Arcs

oO 05 to O i-< •

05 (M OT — 1 .

60

43

32

28

18

1 Number

1 of

jVibrations

o o o o o o c o o o o o =

^ ^ ^ f— * ^ fh 3

CXXXVlll

APPENDIX.

Having thus detailed the Observations on the Intensity of the Magnetic
Force, it may not be uninteresting briefly to examine, how far the results are
consistent with the ratio in which it was expected that the magnetic force
would be found to vary under diflerent Dips of the Needle.

In the Rules and Tables for clearing the Compass from the regular Effect of
the Ship’s Attraction, printed in 1819 by order of the Commissioners of
Longitude, and published, with some alterations and additions, in the
Journal of the Roi/al Institution for October, 1820, the Magnetic Force in the
direction of the Dipping Needle is considered to vary, inversely, as the
square root of four diminished by three times the square of the sine of the
dip ; and the force acting on a needle limited to a horizontal motion, inversely^
as the square root of three increased by the square of the secant of the Dip,

The Observations at Melville Island are entitled to principal consider-
ation, as having been made under more favourable circumstances than were
presented by the other opportunities of the voyage ; they are therefore, to be
compared with those which were made in England.

The Dip in London being 70° 33'.3, and at Winter Harbour 88° 43'.5, the
force in the direction of the Dipping Needle should increase by calculation in
the ratio of 1.153 to 1.

The time of vibration of Mr. Browne’s Dipping Needle, decreased between
London and Winter Harbour in the proportion of 481 to 446, and conse-
quently the force appeared to have increased in the ratio of 1.163 to 1.

The Dip at Sheerness being 69° 55', and at Winter Harbour 88° 43'.5, the
Magnetic Force should increase by calculation as 1.163 to 1 ; but the force
acting on the horizontal needle should be diminished in the proportion of
13.275 to 1.

The times of vibration of the three horizontal needles increased between
Sheerness and Winter Harbour, in arcs from 7 to 1 4 degrees, respectively, as
follow ; No. 1 as 339.7 to 94.5 ; No. 2 as 327,4 to 90 ; and No. 3 as 316.1 to
85 ; consequently, the force acting on them appeared to have diminished by
No. 1 as 12.93 to I ; by No. 2 as 13.23 to 1 ; and by No. 3 as 13.83 to 1 ; the
mean being as 13.33 to 1 ; differing but from the result of the calculation.

This is, perhaps, a nearer agreement with the theory than there was reason
to have expected, considering how much the unavoidable causes of uncertainty
in such experiments are augmented in high magnetic latitudes.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAGNETIC FORCE. CXXXtX

The results on the 26th of June, and on the 23d and 24th of July, 1810,
compared with the observations in England, will also be found to agree as well
with the theory as it is reasonable to expect in experiments, where neither
time nor circumstances admitted the adoption of the precautions, requisite
to ensure the utmost accuracy of which they are capable ; and where, perhaps,
the moving of the ice during the observations may have introduced an addi-
tional error which no care could guard against. By the experiments of the
26th of June, the force had diminished by Needle No. 2, as 2.815 to 1, and
by No. 3 as 2.86 to 1 ; and supposing the Dip to have been 83° 04', as was
found by rather an indifferent observation, the theory would require a dimi-
nution of 2.5 to 1. By the experiments of July the force had diminished by
Needle No. 2, as 3.28 to 1, and by No. 3, as 3.198 to 1 ; the calculated dimi-
nution being 3.12 to 1.

A description having been given of the instrument with which the preced-
ing experiments were made, it may be proper to add, that the mode of
drawing the Needle from its natural direction by a magnet previous to its
oscillation, appears objectionable ; and might be avoided by a contrivance to
retain and release it at any arc at which it might be wished to commence
the vibrations ; also, that it may be desirable that the silk suspension should
be longer than nine inches, especially in experiments in high magnetic lati-
tudes where the force of magnetism is so greatly diminished ; and that great
attention should be paid to the purity of the brass which may be used in the
construction of the instrument.

It may, perhaps, be useful to add a remark, that when the ratio of the
Variation of the Magnetic Force shall be thoroughly determined by experi-
ment, the oscillations of an horizontal needle, suspended as above, will become
a measure of differences in the Dip of the Needle far more accurate in the
higher latitudes than the Dipping Needle ; and, consequently, the dip being
confidently known at any one place of Observation, it may be determined at
others with much greater precision than by the usual method.

The frequent use which was made of the Dipping Needle having suggested

cxl

APPENDIX.

some additions to the Instrument, to facilitate its adjustment, and to conduce
towards greater accuracy in the Observation, it has been thought proper to
annex a short description of them.

The perfect horizontality of the agate planes which support the axis of the
Needle is essential to a correct observation ; it has been usual in Dipping
Needles hitherto, to intrust this adjustment to spirit levels attached to some
part of the frame of the Instrument, placed originally by the maker parallel to
the planes ; whilst the parallelism is maintained, the adjustment by the spirit
levels is correct ; but no means were afforded of detecting any change which
might have taken place either in the planes, or in the levels, nor of re-adjusting
them to each other on any subsequent occasion; to obviate this incon-
venience, Mr. Dollond has contrived the following apparatus ; it is a double
cone, the bases of which are united by a plate, having a diameter greater
than the bases, for the purpose of placing the cones upon the agate planes ;
the apexes of the cones are equal to the diameter of the divided circle
of the instrument, and are perfectly at right angles to the plate which unites
them ; one of the cones is perforated to admit a level, which has the proper
adjustments to bring it parallel to the plate.

In using the apparatus the cones are placed upon the agate planes, which are
brought into the horizontal position by the foot-screws of the instrument, and
by the screws which attach the pieces in which they are held to the cross
bars ; the errors of the level are shewn by placing the double cone in various
positions horizontally, and of the planes by turning the instrument upon
its horizontal centre; when these errors are adjusted, the apexes of the
cones should coincide with the divisions 90°, and 90° of the circle ; if they
do not, the adjustments used in levelling must be again referred to, and
half the error corrected by the foot- screws, and the remaining half by the
screws in the cross bars.

A second addition is for the purpose of retaining and releasing the needle
at any arc at which it may be desired to commence the vibrations for deter-
mining the intensity of the magnetic force ; and is instead of the usual incon-
venient and faulty mode of drawing the needle from its natural position by
a magnet ; it is composed of a moveable ring fitted into the great ring of the
instrument, and close to the back of the divided circle ; to one part of this
ring is attached a double lever, which is acted upon by a spring throwing
one end of the lever within the divided circle, so as to support the needle at
any division that may be required ; to the other end of the lever is attached

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAGNETIC FORCE.

cxli

a string, passing through a hole in the great ring, which, when drawn tight,
releases the needle, by pulling the lever from under it.

A third addition consists of two lenses, applied for the purpose of reading
off the arc when the needle has settled ; they are of such focal length, and so
placed, that the coincidence of the needle with the division can be correctly
seen, when the eye is near to, or at a distance from, the lenses ; they are
borne at the end of two arms, which turn upon a centre fixed to the outside
of the great ring.

.>\r/,V'.'^ • . _ • /*■', . rfnv^,^‘

y . ■ .'■ i''-:-[ '■' '■

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ir

liv^yj-y '.17.' 0!,h-^nc-i'^ '.ui n'i 7 i- y-:...,:.

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APPENDIX VI

TABLE OF DAYS WORKS

KEPT ON BOARD THE HECLA.

VI.

TABLE OF DAYS’ WORKS KEPT ON BOARD THE HECLA.

In the following Table, the courses and distances from day to day
are those deduced from observation, whenever any was obtained. The
common Log made use of in keeping the Dead Reckoning, was marked
with forty-eight feet to the knot, and the glass adjusted to run twenty-
eight seconds. When the ship was sailing, however, upon one course
for several hours together, Massey’s Patent Log was used in preference ;
this invaluable machine was also much made use of, in running bases for
the survey.

The greatest care was taken in correcting the courses steered by compass,
for the Variation on each direction of the Ship’s Head, and for the leeway
or drift. The former correction was easily obtained by the habit of in-
variably observing, morning and evening, by the Sun’s Azimuth, whenever
that object was visible. By thus attending minutely to the reckoning, it
was my particular wish to ascertain whether any general current exists
in that part of the Atlantic included between the Shetland Isles, and the
entrance to Davis’ Strait. By a comparison of the ship’s place as deduced
from the Dead Reckoning, and that determined by Observation in the months
of May and June 1819, a considerable southerly set is perceptible in crossing
the Atlantic from the Orkneys to the meridian of Cape Farewell, the error
in southing exceeding that in northing by thirty-six miles. This current
may be observed in a slight degree daily (with one exception) from the 22d
to the 27th of May, between the meridians of 7° and 24° west, amounting in
more than one instance, to between eight and nine miles per day ; after
this, the ship appears to have been set somewhat to the northward while
under the lee, as it were, of Iceland, till she had reached the 34th degree of
longitude, immediately to the westward of which, the error in southing was
from seven to twenty miles for each of three successive days. This latte?
set was also perceptible, with a few exceptions arising perhaps from unavoid^

TABLE OF days’ WORKS.

cxlv

able error in the reckoning, as far as the longitude of 48°, the ship having
passed between two and three degrees to the southward of Cape Farewell.
On approaching the coast of Greenland, immediately to the westward of that
promontory, and within the 60th degree of latitude, we perceived the
current which has been long known to come round Cape Farewell, and to
set to the northward and westward along that shore.

In returning across the Atlantic in October 1820, less regularity was observ-
able in the errors of northing and southing in the dead reckoning, the differ-
ence between the ship’s latitude by account, and that by observation,
constantly varying from day to day, both in direction and amount. With
respect to easting and westing, it is remarkable that in crossing the sea both
ways, the ship was found to be generally a-head of the reckoning, although,
from having made the same remark on the preceding voyage, I was particu-
larly careful in allowing sufficient distance for the ship’s run through the
water. If this circumstance did not arise from some unavoidable error,
which, furnished as we were with excellent chronometers, can scarcely have
been the case, it would appear that, between the 57th and 61st degree of lati-
tude, the current sets to the westward in the months of May and June, and
to the eastward in October. That the balance of this set is to the eastward
is, however, proved by the fact that the bottles, and other floating substances,
thrown out in the Atlantic, during several years past, between the parallels
of 44° and 61|°, have come on shore in various parts, from the Orkneys to
Cape Finisterre, but chiefly on the west coast of Ireland *, and all nearly at
the same rate, of five miles per day.

Of the current which we experienced in Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay,
I have already spoken, whenever it occurred, in the course of the foregoing
Narrative. By this it would appear that during the summer and autumn
there is, in this part of the Polar seas, a considerable set to the southward. In
judging of the causes which may produce this general tendency of the super-
ficial current, it will be proper to bear in mind two facts which we have had
occasion to remark in the course of this and the preceding voyage ; first, that
in a sea much incumbered with ice, a current is almost invariably produced im-
mediately on the springing up of every breeze of wind ; and secondly, that in
several instances where the ships have been beset in the ice, the direction of the

* For this fact, as well as for that respecting the Lagullus Stream, I am indebted to the kindness
of Major Rennell.

cxlvi

APPENDIX.

daily drift has been the point of the compass directly opposite to that of the
wind, whether the latter was from the northward or the southward. It ap-
pears to me, upon the whole, that the southerly current which we have here
been enabled to detect, is not more than may be caused by the balance of
northerly winds, added to the annual dissolution of large quantities of snow,
which finds the readiest outlet into the Atlantic.

In the Polar Sea, to the westward of Barrow’s Strait, no current has been
found to exist, beyond that which is evidently occasioned by the different
winds. In every part which we had an opportunity of visiting, the tides,
though small, appear to be as regular as in any part of the world.

The usual mode of trying the set and velocity of currents, by mooring a boat
to a loaded iron-pot let down to a considerable depth under water, would
appear to be a very unsatisfactory one. Major Rennell, in the course of his
researches on this subject, has found that the Lagullus current to the south-
ward of the Cape of Good Hope, is checked from a W. by S. course to S. W;
by the banks of the same name, on which, in that part, the depth of water is
one hundred fathoms or more ; as the current advances, the repeated checks
turn it more and more southward, so that it afterwards runs nearly south,
though the depth of water increases. It is not easy, therefore, to say how low
such a current may extend, and to what depth the iron-pot must be sunk, in
order to ensure its not drifting with the boat which it is intended to moor. It
may be better, indeed, to try the current in this way, when in deep water,
than not to try it at all, but it is evident that a considerable current may
exist, when none can thus be detected.

^ When the water is smooth and moderately deep, perhaps under 200
fathoms, the tide or current is satisfactorily ascertained by a small boat
moored to the bottom by a heavy deep-sea lead, or by the deep-sea clamms,
an instrument invented by Captain Ross, for bringing up substances from the
bottom. This mode was always adopted when practicable, in the course of
this voyage.

W. E. P.

DAYS’ WORKS on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla. — May, 1819.

ABSTRACT OF DAYS WORKS.

cxlvii

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The Latitude of the Cape of God’s Mercy, ofBavis, being the Nortliern Headland of the entrance into Cumberland Strait, is, by our Observations on the

Voyage of 1818, 64° 67' North, and its Longitude 63° 20' West.

ABSTRACT OF DAYS WORKS,

cxlix

DAYS’ WORKS on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla. — August, 1819.

cl APPENDIX.

ABSTRACT OF DAYS' WORKS. cli

DAYS’ WORKS on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla. — August, 1820.

clii

APPENDIX

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bi)

D

o

DAYS’ WORKS on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla. — September, 1820.

The Dead Reckoning being very uncertain in the eariy part of this month, on account of the total uselessness of the Compasses, it is not inserted on those days when Observations were obtained.

ABSTRACT OF DAYS’ WORKS.

cliii

DAYS’ WORKS on board His Majesty’s Ship Hecla. — October. 1820.

APPENDIX

cllV'

APPENDIX VII.

TIDE TABLE IN WINTER HARBOUR, MELVILLE ISLAND, 1820.

The following Table contains an Abstract of the Observations registered
every Hour in the Hecla’s Log-Book. They were made by a Tide-Pole,
marked with Feet and Inches, and firmly moored to the bottom.

U

/’ (■ • 'i [

’’i'®

" : •■;'■• ^ ;,r ;■ .v

I ■(

if

f

' ' ; Yl' I'j c r;V^ \Li'..i c.'u ii'. •.■:■

■ . ■ ■ ■ ■ .’.■ ;•; h;-;; Y,Y.. .'

!. i U i I •■

r f

Nr

i I

I ^

, >r

i -Y.

i V

! ' :-v

J f'

Me

.Y.-'V.-, c
•■' -Y r/f'Y' ,

* i " ' "

V -■ ; .’V

• ^Y

YYf':'

•'^Y; J-

I'Y '-Y-'-:

TIDE TABLE IN WINTER HARBOUR

clvii

TIDE TABLE IN WINTER HARBOUR.

1820

High Water

Low Water

REMARKS

High Water

Low Water

REMARKS

inean iimc

Rise from the
last low water

Fall from the
last high water

1820

Mean lime

Rise from the
last low water

Fall from the
last high water

May 4

H

5

M

45

P.M.

Ft. tus.

high water

Ft.

Ins.

May

14

II

2

M

15

A.M.

Fl.

3

Ins.

H

Ft.

Ids.

midnight

1

5

99

8

40

A.M.

• ■

3

Si

5

6

A.M.

2

3-^

Last Quarter of the
Moon.

99

3

P.M.

3

3

•

. .

0

30

P.M.

.

2

2

99

9

P.M.

• • ^

3

3

6

45

P.M.

1

■*•2

.

. .

15

3

20

A.M.

3

10

•

• •

6

0

45

A.M.

.

«

1

1

99

9

30

A.M.

•

3

8

7

20

A.M.

2

1

.

.

99

3

30

P.M.

3

0

• •

2

P.M.

,

, *

1

11

99

9

30

P.M.

.

3

1

??

8

P.M.

0

111

•

• •

f Lowest Tide the
< third after last
(. Quarter.

16

3

30

A.M.

3

8

• •

7

2

30

A.M.

.

.

0

111

99

10

A.M.

•

• •

3

1

9

A.M.

1

Ill

.

.

99

4

P.M.

2

3

•

• •

>5

4

P.M.

.

•

2

99

10

25

P.M.

• •

2

H

99

11

P.M.

1

5

.

17

4

A.M.

2

•

• •

S

4

A.M.

•

1

99

10

50

A.M.

. ' .

2

7

99

10

45

A.M.

2

5

99

4

45

P.M.

2

0

•

• .

99

5

45

P.M.

.

.

2

n

99

11

P.M.

•

2

0

99

11

15

P.M.

2

11

.

18

5

15

A.M.

2

6

• .

9

5

30

A.M.

•

•

1

Ill

99

11

30

A.M.

• •

2

99

noon

2

9

.

.

99

5

45

P.M.

1

H

•

• .

99

5

45

P.M.

•

. ' •

3

^2

99

midnight

•

• •

1

3

10

0

12

A.M.

2

111

.

.

19

6

A.M.

2

0

•

. . .

99

6

20

A.M.

.

.

2

10

99

12

15

P.M.

•

1

io|

99

12

20

P.M.

3

2

•

.

99

6

30

P.M.

1

2

•

• •

First Quarter of
the Moon.

99

6

15

P.M.

•

. .

3

9

20

0

30

A.M.

1

11

1

A.M.

3

8

.

.

99

7

A.M.

1

•

. .

99

7

15

A.M.

•

3

4

99

1

P.M.

.

, ,

1

n

99

1

P.M.

3

61

•

• •

99

8

15

P.M.

1

0

•

• •

fThe lowest Tide
< the second after
t the first Quarter

99

7

P.M.

•

• .

3

81

21

2

A.M.

• •

0

10

12

1

15

A.M.

3

•

.

New Moon.

99

8

30

A.M.

1

9

•

.

99

7

30

A.M.

•

. .

3

61

99

2

25

P.M.

•

• .

1

8

99

1

30

P.M.

3

7

.

99

9

P.M.

1

1

99

8

P.M.

.

,

3

10

22

3

15

A.M.

•

. ,

1

0

13

1

45

A.M.

4

1

•

• .

( HighestTide the
) second after the
^ New Moon.

99

9

30

A.M.

1

6

• •

99

8

A.M.

•

• •

4

2

99

4

10

P.M.

•

• .

1

11

99

2

10

P.M.

3

Qi

.

99

10

30

P.M.

1

6

•

.

99

8

15

P.M.

• •

3

7^

* 2

23

4

45

A.M.

1

clviii

APPENDIX

TIDE TABLE IN VVINTER HARBOUR— coK^mwerf.

1820

Mean Time

High Water

Low Water

REMARKS

1820

Meau Time

High Water

Low Water

REMARKS

Rise from the
last low water

Fall from the
last high water

Rise from the
last low water

Fall from the
last high water

H

M

Ft.

Ins.

Ft.

Ins.

H

M

Ft.

Ins.

Ft.

Ins.

May

23

11

A.M.

1

6

June 1

4

30

P.M.

2

99

99

5

P.M.

2

2k

99

11

P.M.

. •

2

3

5?

11

45

P.M.

2

H

2

5

10

A.M.

3

0

24

6

A.M.

1

H

99

11

30

A.M.

2

10^

noon

2

0

99

6

P.M.

1

8

99

6

30

P.M.

.

1

99

midnight

1

10|

25

0

15

A.M.

2

H

3

6

A..M.

2

9

.

99

6

45

A.M.

2

2

99

0

45

P.M.

2

Gk

Last Quarter of
the Moon

99

0

20

P.M.

2

.

99

7

P.M.

1

9

99

6

30

P.M.

2

Hi

4

1

15

A.M.

• •

1

n

26

0

40

A.M.

2

Si

.

.

99

7

30

A.M.

2

9

99

7

15

A.M.

2

99

2

P.M.

. .

2

( Lowest Tide

the

99

1

P.M.

2

n

99

8

P.M.

1

6

.

) second after last
\ Quarter of the

L Moon

99

6

30

P.M.

•

3

5

2

30

A.M.

•

■ ■

1

8

27

1

25

A.M.

3

. . '

99

8

30

A.M.

2

7

• . .

99

7

30

A.M.

•

3

1

99

3

05

P.M.

.

2

H

99

1

45

P.M.

2

11

Full Moon

99

9

15

P.M.

1

lOi

•

99

7

50

P.M.

.

• .

3

6

3

45

A.M.

1

8

28

2

A.M.

3

7

. - .

99

9

40

A.M.

2

5

99

8

A.M.

.

3

0

99

4

30

P.M.

• .

2

10

99

2

10

P.M.

3

0

• .

99

10

30

P.M.

2

4

• •

99

8

25

P.M.

•

2

7

4

40

A.M.

.

2

li

29

2

30

A.M.

3

10

(Highest Tide the
< third after full

10

30

A.M.

2

6 k

( Moon

99

9

A.M.

• •

3

7

99

5

P.M.

• •

2

6l

99

3

P.M.

3

3

. .

99

11

•

P.M.

2

Gh

■ •

99

9

P.M.

. •

3

G

8

5

30

A.M.

•

• •

2

9

30

3

A.M.

3

0

.

99

noon

2

10

• •

99

9

15

A.M.

.

3

1

99

6

10

P.M.

• .

2

10

99

3

P.M.

2

9

0

30

A.M.

2

lOi

• ■

99

9

30

P.M.

. •

3

99

6

40

A.M.

•

• •

2

111

31

3

50

A.M.

3

71

' a

•

.

99

0

45

P.M.

3

0^

• •

99

10

15

A.M.

. .

3

3k

99

6

50

P.M.

• •

3

1|

99

3

30

P.M.

2

7

.

. . .

10

0

55

A.M.

3

4

99

10

P.M.

■ .

2

7

99

7

10

A.M.

• •

3

3

June

1

4

15

A.M.

3

4

. .

99

1

15

P.M.

2

11

•

• •

99

10

45

A.M.

3

4

99

7

15

P.M.

•

•

3

1|

TIDE TABLE IN WINTER HARBOUR

clix

TIDE TABLE JN WINTER HARBOUR,— cow^mwed.

High Water

Low Water

High Water

Low Water

1S20

Mean Time

1820

Mean Time

Rise

from the

Fall

from the

REMARKS

Rise

from the

Fall

from the

REMARKS

last low water

last high water

last low water

last high water

June 11

If

1

M

40 A.M.

Ft.

3

Ins*

Ft.

lus.

fTide next after
^ New Moon, a high

June 20

H

3

M

A.M.

Ft.

2

Ins.

0

Ft.

Ins.

(one.

8

A.M.

3

7

99

3

P.M.

.

1

4

99

99

1

.50 p. Ar.

2

11

8

P.M.

3

1

The Register of the Tides was here discontinued

on account

12

]

2

45 A.M.

3

6

of the difficulty of getting near

enough to the Tide-pole

to note the height accura

itely.

99

8

35 A.M.

•

• •

3

5

99

2

50 P.M.

3

0

•

July 6

11

0

P.M.

high water

99

9

P.M.

• •

3

4

7

5

A.M.

.

1

11

13

3

30 A.M.

3

•

Highest tidethe fifth
after New Moon.

99

11

45

A.M.

1

10

. .

99

9

40 A.M.

•

• •

3

99

5

30

P.M.

.

. • ,

2

3i

99

3

15 P.M.

2

11

•

• •

99

midnight

2

6k

.

*

99

9

25 P.M.

2

Ilf

8

6

30

A.M.

-

2

4

14

3

40 A.M.

3

7

• •

99

12

30

P.M.

2

1

99

10

A.M.

3

Is

99

6

40

P.M.

.

2

6

99

4

P.M.

3

0

• •

9

1

A.M.

2

11

.

99

9

45 P.M.

•

3

, 2

99

6

45

A.M.

.

•

2

10

15

4

30 A.M.

3

5

•

• •

99

1

15

P.M.

2

^k

,

.

99

10

30 A.M.

3

1

99

7

20

P.M.

.

2

6k

99

4

35 P.M.

2

3

•

• •

10

1

40

A.M.

3

3k

.

.

New Moon.

99

10

40 P.M.

• •

2

10

9?

8

A.M.

.

.

3

16

4

50 /J.M.

3

3

• •

99

2

15

P.M.

2

8

«

99

11

A.M.

•

2

10

99

8

15

P.M.

•

. .

2

8|

99

4

30 P M.

2

0

•

11

2

40

A.M.

3

99

11

P.M.

• •

2

1

99

8

50

A.M.

.

.

3

6

17

6

15 A.M.

2

10

• •

99

2

40

P.M.

2

7

.

99

1

P.M.

.

• •

2

7

99

9

P.M.

•

•

3

0

99

7

15 P.M.

2

0|

•

• •

12

2

40

A.M.

3

9

.

(■Highest tide, the
< fourth after New
( Moon.

99

na

idnight

> •

2

4

99

9

20

A.M.

.

. .

3

5

18

6

A.M.

2

•

• •

First Quarter of
the Moon*

99

3

20

P.M.

2

10

.

99

0

45 P.M.

• •

2

4

99

9

30

P.M.

•

. .

2

lOi

99

7

P.M.

1

6

• • '

13

3

45

A.M.

3

6k

, ,

19

1

A.M.

•

1

5

99

10

40

A.M.

•

.

3

5

99

7

30 A.M.

1

'10

• ■

99

4

P.M.

•2

8

99

1

45 P.M.

• •

2

0-

99

10

15

P.M.

.

.

2

11

99

8

P.M.

1

85

•

• •

14

4

15

A.M.

3

7

.

20

2

A.M.

•

• •

1

8

99

10

30

A.M.

•

• •

3

4

clx

APPENDIX

TIDE TABLE IN WINTER HARBOUR, continued.

Hi&h Water

> Low Water

HroH Water

Low Water

1820

Mean Time

1820

Mean Time

Rite

from the

Fall

from the

REMARKS

Rise

from the

Fall from the

REMARKS

last low water

last high water

last low water

last high water

H

M

Fu

Ins.

Ft.

Ins.

H M

Ft.

Ins.

Ft.

Ins.

July 14

4

15

P.M.

2

5

•

•

July 17

0 30 P.M.

•

• •

2

6

10

30

P.M.

•

. .

2

99

6 30 P.M.

2

1

•

.

15

5

A.M.

3

3

■ .

•

99

midnight

.

• .

2

2

11

15

A.M.

•

• .

3

18

6 30 A.M.

2

5

•

• •

First Quarter of the
Moon.

5

15

P.M.

2

•

. .

99

1 P.M.

.

• .

2

3

11

P.M.

.

. •

2

99

7 30 P.M.

1

10

:

. .

16

5

40

A.M.

2

•

. .

19

1 30 A.M.

•

• •

1

5

99

noon

•

• •

2

00

99

7 45 A.M.

2

0

•

• •

99

6

P.M.

2

3

.

. .

1 ”

midnight

^ •

2

4

The Tide-pole being disturbed by the

ice becoming loose

30

about it, the account of the Tides was here discontinued.

17

6

A.M.

2

7

•

• •

GENERAL REMARKS ON THE HEIGHT OF THE TIDES.

In the Months of

Maximum

Minimum

Mean

May

Feet Inches

4 2

Feet Inches

0 10

Feet Inches

2 6i

June

3 7

1 4

2 7

J uly

3 9

1 5

2 H

TIMES OF HIGH WATER ON FULL AND CHANGE DAYS OF THE MOON.

H M

New Moon, May 12th . . .115

Full .... 27th ; 1 45

New . . June 10th 115

New . . July 10th 1 40

Mean Time of High Water on Full and Change Days . . 1 29

APPENDIX VIII.

AN ACCOUNT

OF EXPERIMENTS TO DETERMINE THE ACCELERATION OF
THE PENDULUM IN DIFFERENT LATITUDES.

,' '. -■•■ ' '^ ' ' a:N;>':^..:-\ ' f:-M- ' -'■■■^'

■'■ J V' '.V' N:r

f '.Vv/.',- '^r'"’

• V1I/

Wil

TV 'i

' .1 ■ I r'^' l^y . ' , ^ ' \

■ ■' - ^ • ; '" ■ [{

' mlt ’ ■ -M-

/ .:■

■ •♦ijiV' *

r »■

.'Y' ’. ', ^ V

.TTIV m

wm

'* . ..-i . \ Ar'i ■ ‘ •■'

Eii,.

■

i>’ .™h'J

' ' ':ji,j. r ! !Tf f .i )7 I .■ ,> !.! .^ /! ^' UT M’O . ■

Hi

: \

'■ '■ ' i; •. ' ’ •;7' '

-\- ' ( , t;-. ...

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VIII.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE EXPERIMENTS TO DETERMINE THE ACCELERATION
OF THE PENDULUM IN DIFFERENT LATITUDES.

A FULL and detailed report of these experiments has been presented to the
Royal Society at whose desire they were undertaken, and will be published
in the Philosophical Transactions ; the present statement is, therefore, con-
fined to a brief notice of their object, nature, and results.

Were the figure of the earth truly spherical, a pendulum would make the
same number of vibrations in a given time, under like circumstances of
temperature, and of atmospherical pressure, and at equal heights above the
level of the sea, in every part of the globe, because the force of gravity
which governs the vibrations would be always the same, being at equal dis-
tances from the centre of the earth.

The accidental discovery that a pendulum, on being removed from Paris
to the neighbourhood of the Equator, increased its time of vibration, gave
the first step to our present knowledge, that the Polar axis of the globe
is less than the Equatorial, and that the force of gravity at the surface of the
earth increases progressively from the Equator towards the Poles.

It has been deemed an important object to science, to determine by expe-
riment the precise amount of the deviation of the figure of the earth from a
perfect sphere. This purpose has been attempted either by the actual mea-
surement and comparison of distant degrees of latitude on a terrestrial meri-
dian, or by ascertaining the variation in the force of gravity in different latitudes
by means of a pendulum, and thence inferring, by certain known methods,
the diminution of gravity from the Pole to the Equator, and the conse-
quent ratio of the Equatorial to the Polar axis.

Such was the object of the present experiments. Their nature may be

clxiv

APPENDIX.

briefly described, to consist in ascertaining with the utmost possible accu-
racy, at different stations the latitudes of which are correctly known, the
number of vibrations which would be made by a certain pendulum in a given
time, were it placed at the level of the sea, in mciio, and at a certain tem-
perature. This purpose is effected by setting up a clock containing the pen-
dulum in a convenient and protected situation, and by observing the number
of vibrations which it makes on an average of several intervals of 24 hours
each, accurately determined ; the actual circumstances of the temperature,
pressure of the atmosphere, arcs in which the vibrations are performed, and
the elevation above the sea, being carefully noted, and their effects in
retarding or accelerating the vibrations calculated and allowed for.

This operation, which is sufficiently simple in description, proves less so
in the performance, by reason of the extreme accuracy which is required in
the results, and of the many causes whereby slight errors may be intro-
duced, which demand the utmost precaution and watchfulness to guard
against.

The squares of the number of vibrations in 24 hours in the different lati-
tudes, are to each other, as the force of gravitation in such latitudes ;
and the difference between the Polar and Equatorial diameters is de-
duced from the acceleration, obtained by comparing the observations at eacli
station successively with those at all the others.

Two clocks were used in these experiments, being the property of the
Royal Society, and the same which accompanied Captain Cook round the
world.

The pendulums were prepared by Captain Kater ; being each cast in one
piece of solid brass, and vibrating on a knife-edge of hard steel, on agate
plates ground into portions of hollow cylinders.

The experiments were made in the present Voyage, and in the preceding
one in 1818; one only of the clocks was employed in the first voyage,
but both in the second.

The stations at which the experiments in 1818 were made, were as
follow :

At Brassa, one of the Shetland Islands . . Lat. 60° 09' 42" N,
At Hare, or Waygat Island, in Davis Strait, Lat. 70° 26' 15" N,
And in London Lat. 51° 31' 08". 4 N ;

ACCELERATION OF THE PENDULUM.

clxv

-The stations of the present voyage were,

In London, Latitude as before,

At Melville Island, m the Polar Sea, Lat. 74° 47' 14'^36 N,

And again, in London, on the return of the Expedition.

The observations of the second voyage are deserving of principal consi-
deration, for the following reasons.:

1st. The arc of intercepted latitude was greater than between any two of
the stations of 1818 ; the possible errors of observation have consequently
had a less influence on the accuracy of the deductions.

2dly. The employment of two clocks aflbrded a means of procuring double
and corresponding results ; indeed, as it happened fortunately that each
pendulum would fit into either clock, four corresponding results were
obtained for the acceleration between London and Melville Island.

3dly. The number of vibrations made by the clocks in London was ascer-
tained by two distinct series of experiments, one before the departure, and
a second after the return of the Expedition ; the very near agreement of the
results on these occasions proving that neither of the clocks, nor any part of
their apparatus, had sustained an injury during the voyage, affecting their
rate of going ; as well as affording a satisfactory inference of the confidence
which is due to the mode of experiment ; the number of vibrations in
24 hours in London was as follows :

Clock 1

January, 1819
December, 1820

Clock 2

March, 1819
December, 1820

86392.5673

86392.3353

86392.4513

86496.997

86496.9741

86496.9855

'I

Vibrations in a
mean solar day.

4thly. From the time which was allowed for the experiments at Melville
Island being fully sufficient for their completion, the rate of each clock being
determined by a mean of 85 intervals of 24 hours each.

And lastly. From the correspondence in the results obtained by the two
clocks ; the daily acceleration of the one, on a mean of the experiments
with both pendulums, being 74.8151 vibrations, and by the other, 74.6528
vibrations. The mean of the two, therefore, 74.734, is considered as the true

clxvi

APPENDIX.

acceleration of a pendulum between the latitudes of 51° 31' 08". 4 and
74° 47' 14".36. N.

By comparing, in a similar manner, the experiments made in the Voyage
of 1818 with each other, the acceleration of the pendulum between the
several stations at which it was tried, has been obtained as follows :

Between London and Brassa . . 33.107 -i

London and Hare Island 65.2386 vibrations in a mean solar day.
Brassa and Hare Island 32.1316J

The following Table contains the deductions which have been obtained by
calculation from these several results.

From the Acceileration between

Diminution of Gravity
from the Pole to the
Equator

Ellipticity of
the Earth

London and Brassa ....

.0055066

1

di'i.d

London and Hare Island .

.0055139

1

T|3.6

Brassa and Hare Island .

.0055082

1

314.U

London and Melville Island

.0055258

oTiT

APPENDIX IX.

REMARKS

ox

THE STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE

ON BOARD THE HECLA AND GRIPER.

REMARKS

ON

THE STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE

ON BOARD THE HECLA AND GRIPER.

A Voyage distinguished as this has been by a state of salubrity exceeding
the most sanguine expectations, may perhaps render interesting a few
remarks on the character of the casualties and diseases that did occur;
together with a brief view of those circumstances inimical to health, which
were so successfully counteracted during the voyage.

The experience of the former voyage had taught us, that, during the
summer months, disease of any kind was almost a stranger to the arctic
regions, and this voyage confirmed the experience of the last. On securing
ourselves in winter quarters in September 1819, there was not a person
inefficient from disease on board either ship, excepting one officer, who was
suffering under an attack of rheumatism.

At that time the winter was setting in rapidly ; the cold had already
become severe, and the men began to feel its effects in their extremities,
but more particularly in their toes. Among a few of them the injury
amounted to no more than the common chilblain, whilst in others it was more
severe. In the latter cases, after suffering a short time from the pain of
cold, the toes became gelid, colourless, and insensible, until acted on by the
stimulus of a warmer atmosphere, when pain ensued, which acquired a
degree of almost intolerable acuteness. To prevent an excessive excitement

APPENDIX.

pi XX

which followed when these cases were not immediately attended to, we
adopted the practice found most useful in cold countries, that of immediately
emerging the injured parts in snow, or water kept, by the continual addition
of snow, at 32° of Fahrenheit. They were directed to continue this appli-
cation until some time after the pliability of the part had been restored.

In most of these cases, this plan of treatment did not secure the patient
against an accession of inflammation, which although in general superficial,
usually terminated in vesication of the whole surface, followed by an exfolia-
tion of the nail and epidermis. After this, the milder cases quickly healed,
while in the more severe ones, corrosive ulcerations into the cutis formed,
which proved troublesome and tedious in the cure.

A case occurred on board the Hecla which, as it may serve to illustrate the
effects of severe cold, I shall particularize.

A house, erected on shore for scientific purposes, caught fire by accident
during the winter. A servant of Captain Sabine, in his endeavours to
extinguish it, exposed his hands in the first instance to the operation of con-
siderable heat ; he afterwards remained in the open air in much distress of
mind, at having been in some measure the involuntary cause of the accident,
and was almost unconscious of the effects of a temperature of 43° to 44° below
zero of Fahrenheit, upon his naked hands. He was at length noticed in this
situation, and sent on board.

His hands presented a strange appearance ; they were perfectly hard,
inflexible, colourless, possessing a degree of translucency, exhibiting more the
external character of pieces of sculptured marble, than those of animated
matter. They were immediately plunged into the cold bath, where they
continued for upwards of two hours ere their flexibility was completely
recovered ; the abstraction of heat had been so great, that the water in
contact with the fingers congealed upon them, even half an hour after they
had been immersed. During the cold application, a considerable degree of
re-action took place, attended by acute pain, from which the patient became
so faint and exhausted as to necessitate his being conveyed to bed. In less

STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE. clxxi^

I

than three hours, very active inflammation had supervened, extending high
up the arm, and soon afterwards each hand, from the wrist downward,
was enclosed in a bladder, containing upward of a pint of viscid serous fluid.
There were, however, three of the fingers of one hand, and two of the other,
in which this vesication did not form ; they continued cold, and perfectly
insensible ; and whilst arterial action was powerful, as far as the first joints of
these fingers, the vessels of their extremities were in a perfect state of
collapsion. During the employment of antiphlogistic remedies to reduce the
inflammatory symptoms, various stimuli were used ineffectually, to restore
animation to the fingers ; when the inflammation began to subside, a sepa-
ration took place between the dead and the living parts, and eventually the
amputation of them became necessary.

A private marine of the Griper had also one of his hands frozen in a
similar manner, and with a like result. Mr. Beverly had to amputate three
or four of the fingers. i

The majority of this sort of injuries took place in the early part of the
winter, when the men had not learnt the absolute necessity of extreme
caution. The fishermen’s boots which they wore, were ill calculated to
preserve the warmth of the feet, being formed of hard leather, saturated with
salt and grease, and often made too small to admit of a sufficient quantity of
stockings to counteract the property they possessed, of being too good con-
ductors of heat. It was not uncommon to see the toes, stockings, and boots
cemented together merely by the freezing of the cutaneous exudations of the
feet. By a little care, these accidents became less frequent, and subsequently,
after Captain Parry had substituted canvass boots in lieu of the leathern, not
one case of the kind appeared.

Such were the casualties that formed the sick list for the first three months
of the winter ; casualties, which from the experience gained by the officers
and seamen in the late voyage, may be expected to be totally avoided in any
succeeding one ; in fact, the preventive means are so completely within
control, that it is only in the event of some contingency similar to that which

y

APPENDIX.

clxxii

I*

happened in the case of Captain Sabine’s servant, that such an accident
ought to occur.

Although the winter was commenced with full confidence in the abundance
and efficacy of our resources, we could not be quite indifferent to the
many examples on record of the fatality that had attended most of those
adventurers, who either by accident or in hopes of commercial profit, had
wintered in those climates. With these facts before us, it would have been
too much, however sanguine we might have been, to have expected a total
exemption from scurvy, and many evils arose during the winter favourable to
its production, requiring unceasing vigilance to watch and oppose.

Among the causes which have been considered most active in generating
this destructive disease, are to be noticed the following, viz., a diet deficient
in quantity or quality ; a cold, damp, and impure air ; uncleanliness, habits
of idleness; mental disquietude; and in short, whatever is capable of
producing debility. The absence of a due quantity of acescent vegetable
food is always the exciting cause.

In the sea-scurvy, the salted provisions used by the seamen have been held
by many to be the most constant cause predisposing to the disease, depend-
ing as some think, on the nutritive parts of the meat being dissolved, and
lost in the brine ; or, according to others, owing to a chemical combination
between the salt and the animal fibre, destructive, of its nutritious properties.
The present unfrequency of the disease in His Majesty’s service may induce
a doubt whether the rations of the seamen, modified as they are at this time,
are capable of producing such a predisposition, without the co-operation of
some other powerful remote cause.

In the equipment of the Expedition, however, every measure that appeared
conducive to the improvement of the antiscorbutic qualities of the provisions
was adopted. A large quantity of the meats preserved by Messrs. Donkin
and Co. without salt, as well as of their vegetable and concentrated soups was
embarked, and placed at the discretion of Captain Parry, who, by the substi-
tution of them in lieu of proportional quantities of salt beef, greatly

STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE. Glxxiii

improved the diet of the men. Another deviation from the usual allowance
was the employment of good flour instead of biscuit, by which the crews
were furnished with a daily supply of well-fermented bread. When to this
was added a liberal proportion of lemon-juice, pickles, vinegar, ^c., it was
reasonable to hope that the exciting cause would not acquire any consi-
derable activity, unless a very strong predisposition prevailed.

Of the remote predisposing causes to which we were exposed from the
peculiarity of our situation, a cold and vitiated atmosphere was the most to
be dreaded. It is true there was little to be apprehended from the effects
of the external air, for during the winter months, which constitute three-
fourths of the year, the atmosphere is pure, clear and dry ; its mean tempe-
rature considerably below zero of Fahrenheit, and rarely undergoing any
very sudden change. The clothing of the men was found adequately warm
to protect them from the severest cold experienced, which they were enabled
to confront not only with impunity, but with a degree of profit and
pleasure.

In the interior of the vessels the state of the air was necessarily very dif-
ferent. To economise and preserve a tolerable degree of heat below, it was
necessary to keep the hatchways continually covered ; the rarefied air which
escaped by the flues being replaced through the crevices, and by the occa-
sional opening of the hatchways. In this way, although the renewal of pure
air, was abundantly frequent to maintain healthy respiration, the air was sel-
dom of sufficient temperature to carry off the vapours which floated between-
decks. These were deposited upon the cold sides of the ships, overhead,
and in the bed-places, in icicles, which, by alternately thawing and freezing,
kept up a dampness that for some time proved a source of danger, de-
manding continued attention to obviate its pernicious influence on the health
of the crews.

Personal uncleanliness was another evil against which it was difficult to guard.
The smoke with which the air was loaded attached itself to the persons and
clothing of the men in such quantity as to cause great inconvenience ; toler-

clxxiv

APPENDIX.

able comfort was only to be obtained by frequent ablutions, but the time and
the fuel necessary to procure enough water for this and other purposes, cre-
ated a tendency to neglect the duties of cleanliness, an object that required
the constant superintendence of the officers to effect. The greatest difficulty,
however, in this respect, arose from the obstacles which opposed the drying
of the clothes when washed ; for many months there was no other mode of
effecting this than by suspending them in the neighbourhood of the stoves
and flues, and it was fortunate if by these means a clean shirt was procured
once a week.

Various were the modes of occupation, in exercises and recreations, put in
practice to counteract a disposition to idleness, the prolific source of discon-
tent and its consequences. The dull monotony of the scene was favourable
to habits of sloth, particularly among seamen whose mental resources are too
feeble, in general, to enable them eflectually to withstand the temptation.
As the means employed to obviate these several evils constitute a part of the
general system of economy and discipline practised by Captain Parry during
the voyage, it is not necessary for me to detail them ; the best commentary
on the subject is the comparative freedom from disease that prevailed
throughout.

Nearly four months had elapsed when the first symptoms of scurvy were
observed ; this was early in the month of January, one of the severest in the
year. The patient was Gunner of the Hecla, a spare man of temperate habits,
but with a constitution somewhat worn by servitude in warm climates. This
morbid predisposition was increased by circumstances connected with the
locality of his cabin, which was situated in the vicinity of a large stove, from
which emanated a degree of heat not sufficient to expel the moisture, but
quite adequate to keep it in a most comfortless condition ; during the day
the air was charged with vapour, which at night froze to every adjacent sub-
stance. On examining his bed, one side was found to be literally drenched
in water, and the other frozen to the bed-place. Under such circumstances
it was not astonishing that scorbutic symptoms should have appeared. Their

STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE.

clxxv

character, nevertheless, was remarkably mild. The removal of the patient
from his damp cabin, into a hammock in a dry part of the vessel, the substitu-
tion of fresh meat and vegetable soup, instead of the salted portion of his diet,
and a small additional allowance of lemon-juice sufficed to subdue every
symptom in three weeks after the attack, and he braved the rest of the voyage
on the diet of the ships’ company without any recurrence of the complaint.

Early in March two more cases appeared almost simultaneously, one cor-
responding closely to the foregoing in its origin and result ; the other differing,
inasmuch as the subject was a man who had occupied one of the most com-
fortable beds in the ship ; but he had been more than once, while in the ser-
vice of the East India Company, a sufferer from scurvy ; his predisposition was
also increased by a pernicious habit of eating pork slush. This substance is the
more oily part of the fat, which has so great an affinity for the salt, that during
the boiling they are discharged together, leaving the meat in a relative state
of freshness. The use of this briny fat is strictly prohibited ; but this man
was detected by the crew in the act of purloining and eating it, and they,
with a praise-worthy zeal for the welfare of the Expedition, reported his
delinquency,

A fourth case shewed itself in April ; the patient was the Greenland mate,
employed as a pilot. He had occupied a part of the gunner’s cabin, and had,
consequently, been exposed to the more tardy operation of the same morbific
agents. The remedies used in the first case, were equally successful in the
others ; but I omitted to notice some auxiliary articles of food which, doubt-
less, very much accelerated their recovery. These were occasional puddings
of preserved fruits, and frequent small salads of mustard and cress forced,
with some difficulty, by Captain Parry, in his cabin.

A solitary case of diseased lungs occurred during the voyage, which, in its
progress, was combined with scorbutic symptoms. As this case eventually
proved fatal, I shall, at the request of Captain Parry, subjoin an abstract
of it. ■

William Scott was entered on the sick list on the 12th of April, having an

clxxvi

APPENDIX.

attack of inflammation of the lungs, which had been ushered in by the usual
symptoms of fever. Copious bleedings and abstinence relieved him, but on
the 14th he had a relapse, which also yielded to similar treatment. On the 24th,
he was in an advanced state of convalescence, when a diarrhoea supervened
which arrested his progress towards recovery. The symptoms were mild,
and seemed to arise rather from the irritation produced by acrid matter in the
intestinal canal, than from any organic derangement. Medicine suitable to
that view of the case was administered with considerable, though not perfect,
relief. At this time also some symptoms of a scorbutic character were appa-
rent, which in the beginning of May were no longer equivocal, consisting of
aversion to motion, lassitude, depression of spirits, pale countenance, fetid
breath, livid, spongy, bleeding gums. An antiscorbutic and farinaceous
regimen was prescribed, with such occasional laxatives and anodynes as were
dictated by the state of his bowels. By the 25th the decided symptoms of
scurvy had given way ; the paleness, debility, and mental anxiety, remaining.
The last affection had clung to him throughout, diverted at times by such
light occupations as were found to suit him. He had also suffered two or
three relapses of the diarrhoea. The acescent portion of his diet was now dis-
continued, and the bitter tonics substituted ; in addition to his farinaceous
food, he had daily a nutritious broth .of the ptarmigan, of which a few were^,
shot. Under this treatment he appeared to be improving, until the 29th, when
he had a recurrence of diarrhoea. The appearance of the alvine feculae,
and a sense of uneasiness, felt by percussion, in the region of the liver,
indicated a derangement of the hepatic system. Five grains of the blue pill
were prescribed daily until the 7th of June, when the salivary glands becom-
ing excited, it was omitted. While under its influence, which continued a
fortnight, the uneasiness in the right hypochondrium ceased, but the bowels
continued at intervals disordered. On the 10th he began to feel his respira-
tion hurried, on exposure to the cold ; general lassitude and debility ;
increasing pallidity of countenance, and livid lips, with extraordinary
depression of spirits. These symptoms were suspicious, but the principal

STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE.

clxxvii

diagnostic signs of scurvy were wanting ; his pulse was small and frequent,
skin cold ; his appetite for food under these circumstances was, nevertheless,
tolerable. His treatment had now for its main object the restoration of
strength, and to sooth the occasional intestinal irritability. On the 19th he
for the first time experienced an indescribable sensation of praBcordial anxiety,
and on the same night he had a short fit of dyspnoea and cough, increased
rapidity and weakness of pulse, without pain or fever indicative of inflamma-
tory action. This state of anxiety continued until the 26th, when a stupor
supervened, from which he was roused by the irritation of a vesicatory ; a
degree of incoherence was perceptible during the day, Avhich increased in the
evening, and by midnight had become furious delirium. In spite of his de-
bility, he was with difficulty held in his bed, anxious to escape imaginary
dangers, and attempts upon his life. It was midnight of the 27th, before this
mental agitation subsided, leaving him in a rational state, but exhausted by
his struggles, and evidently sinking apace. On the 29th he relapsed again
into a stupor, almost unconscious of surrounding objects, and on the morning
of the 30th he breathed his last.

On opening the body after death, about two pints of serum were found
in the cavity of the abdomen, the liver was preternaturally enlarged, but
in other respects sound ; a few of the mesenteric glands were indurated ; the
rest of the abdominal viscera offering no morbid appearance.

In the thorax, the pericardium contained three or four ounces of fluid.
The heart was small, its parietes attenuated, flaccid, and pale, and its cavities
filled with firm coagulated lymph.

Both lungs were collapsed and shrunk to half their natural bulk, exter-
nally firm and livid, on making incision into them. The parenchymatous
substance appeared condensed, and converted into a liver-like substance of a
livid hue. There was no sign of tubercle or abscess, nor was there any
exudation into the cavity of the chest, or adhesion of the pleura.

The morbid state of the thoracic viscera, discovered by the dissection,
elucidated many of the distressing symptoms, the cause of which was in-

clxxviii

APPENDIX.

volved in so much obscurity; but it leaves the pathology of the disease very
imperfect.

The diseased condition of mind under which this poor man laboured, had
been much aggravated by circumstances which only transpired a short time
before his death. He had unfortunately a propensity to liquors, and it
appeared that he had been in the habit of gratifying his desire by means of
those illicit barterings among seamen, which it is so difficult to detect. A
nocturnal incontinence of urine was the consequence, which had been a
source of annoyance to his messmates, ending in a powerful antipathy to him,
manifested in their unwillingness to assist him even in his sickness. The
consciousness of this had evidently been long preying upon his mind.

The above cases comprehended all in which scorbutic symptoms were
manifest ; no other of the crew evinced the slightest disposition thereto ;
although in the early part of April, in consequence of the serious loss of
lemon-juice by the bursting of the bottles by the frost, it had been deemed
necessary to reduce the consumption of it one-third ; and in the middle of
June to discontinue it entirely. At this period the sorrel (Rimex Digynus, Linn.)
began to vegetate, and the men were enjoined to gather daily a prescribed
quantity ; during the whole of July it increased almost to exuberance, proving
a most valuable antiscorbutic.

In May two or three cases of pulmonic inflammation entered the sick-list ;
and in June two of diarrhoea, among the parties employed in procuring game.
Among the sportsmen, and also among the party which travelled across the
island in June, a few cases occurred of that species of ophthalmia called snow-
blindness, produced by the reverberation of the solar rays from the surface of
the snow. The inflammation is not excessive, but the irritation is for many
hours very distressing. Refrigerant applications, and in severe cases alternated
with warm fomentations, generally allayed the irritation in twenty or thirty
hours, and in three or four days the patient was fit for service.

The foregoing remarks apply more particularly to the state of health r on
board the Hecla, In the Griper the scorbutic symptoms were of a more

STATE OF HEALTH AND DISEASE.

clxxix

aggravated character, obviously resulting from the objects attacked being men
of more debilitated constitutions. The remote causes depending on the con-
dition of the atmosphere, were also more powerful in this vessel than in the
Hecla: for, in consequence of the contracted space in which they lived, the
air was charged with moisture which was deposited so plentifully upon the
walls and bed-places, that every effort to preserve dryness was fruitless. In
this extremity it at length became necessary to put all the men into ham-
mocks, and to break down the bulk-heads and bed-places, thereby throwing
open the whole deck to the influence of the fires. This measure proved
effectual in removing the nuisance, and with it the disposition to disease.

THE END.

LONDON :

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES>
Nortliuraberland-conrt.

SUPPLEMENT TO THE APPENDIX OP CAPTAIN PARRY’S

FIRST VOYAGE.

•. s * •,

my

. •'■ .'A ■

■i^. "

i- iT-L/,,' '■•V

■ '■ V:

. '-41 . y* "«v

A

SUPPLEMENT

THE APPENDIX OF CAPTAIN PARRY’S VOYAGE FOR THE
DISCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

IN THE YEARS 1819—20.

CONTAINING

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SUBJECTS

OF

NATURAL HISTORY.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE - STREET,

MDCCCXXIV.

LONDON;

PRINTED BY W. CLOWES,
N orthamberland-Conrt.

ADVERTISEMENT.

On returning from the late Expedition to the Polar Seas, I much regretted to find
that the account of the Natural Productions collected on the former voyage had not
yet been completed. Of the cause of the delay I need not here speak, as it has,
in some measure, been explained in the course of the following pages. It is only
necessary for me, therefore, to repeat my acknowledgments to the respective Writers
of the following Notices, for the trouble they have kindly taken in drawing them up.

W. E. PARRY.

London, December, 1823.

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CONTENTS.

Mammalia, by Captain Edward Sabine

Birds, by Captain Edward Sabine

Fish, by Captain Edward Sabine • •

Land Invertebrate Animals, by the Rev. William Kirby .
Marine Invertebrate Animals, by Captain Edward Sabine

Shells, by John Edward Gray, Esq

Botany, by Robert Brown, Esq.

Rock Specimens, by Charles Konig, Esq. ...

Page

clxxxiii

cxciii

ccxi

ccxiv

ccxix

ccxI

cclix

ccxlvi

ERRATUM.

Page ccxix, for Invertebrate Animals read Marine Invertebrate Animals.

APPENDIX X

NATURAL HISTORY.

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N^-X.

ZOOLOGY.

The following account is limited to a notice of the animals which were
met with during the period in which the Expedition remained within the
Arctic Circle ; it comprises an enumeration of the well-known species, ac-
companied by occasional remarks, and a more extended description of such
as are considered to be previously undescribed.

MAMMALIA.

1. Ursus Maritimus. Polar Bear.

Seen occasionally during the voyage ; frequent on the west coast of
IJavis’ Strait, where they are more numerous than on the eastern side,
being less disturbed by the whalers ; but more rarely met with after the
entrance of the ships into the Polar Sea, where seals and walruses which are
their favourite food are scarce ; only two bears were seen during the many
months in which the Expedition remained at Melville Island, one in October
and the other in the August following.

clxxxiv

APPENDIX.

It is mentioned by several authors, but apparently without authority, that
the white bear sleeps during the winter in caverns in the ice, Fabricius
expressly states the contrary on his own knowledge. The bears which were
seen in Melville Island may have passed the winter in the neighbourhood of
Barrow’s Straits, where it is probable open water may be found in the
greater part, if not during the whole, of the year.

The weight of this species varies exceedingly according to the condition
of the individual ; one killed in the former Expedition weighed above 1,100
pounds ; whereas another which was obtained in the present Voyage, and which
was somewhat larger in all its measurements, weighed not quite 900 pounds.

The canine teeth are solitary in the upper, and approximate to the fore
teeth in the under jaw.

On the return of the ships through Barrow’s Strait, a bear was met with
swimming in the water about mid-way between the shores which were
about forty miles apart ; no ice was in sight except a small quantity near the
land ; on the approach of the ships, he appeared alarmed and dived, but rose
again speedily ; a circumstance which may seem to confirm the remark of
Fabricius, that well as the Polar bear swims, it is not able to remain long
under water.

2. Gulo Luscus. Woolverene.

The skull of a woolverene without the lower jaw was picked up in
Melville Island, but the living animal was not met with. Since the return
of the Expedition, the skull has been identified with one which is in the
museum of the College of Surgeons, marked by the late Mr. John Hunter, as
belonging to a woolverene from Labrador ; it has also been identified with the
skull of a woolverene in the collection of Joshua Brookes, esq., which he
was so obliging as to cause to betaken out of the skin for the purpose of com-
parison. This animal is therefore enumerated with confidence amongst the
quadrupeds of the North Georgian Islands, although it is probably of rare

ZOOLOGY.

clxxxv

occurrence. Mr. Brookes’s specimen agrees very well with the description in
Pennant's History of Quadrupeds ; but in the plate the face is scarcely suffi-
ciently sharp, or pointed.

3. Mustela Erminea. Ermine.

This species was shot at Possession Bay on the former Expedition, and
was seen in the present voyage, on the continuation of the same coast,
further to the southward. It probably does not inhabit the opposite side
of Davis’ Strait, as it is not noticed among the Greenland quadrupeds by
Fabricius.

4. Canis Lupus, Wolf.

Inhabit the North Georgian Islands, and were seen almost daily during the
winter, but would not suffer themselves to be approached within gunshot ;
they were of a very light colour, and of the full size of a setter dog.

Those naturalists^ who believe that no animal, in a perfectly natural and
wild state, will connect itself with one of a different species, will consider
the long-agitated question, of the specific identity of the wolf and dog, as
determined by a circumstance of frequent occurrence at Melville Island ; in
December and January, which are the months in which wolves are in season,
a female paid almost daily visits to the neighbourhood of the ships, and
remained until she was joined by a setter dog belonging to one of the
officers ; they were usually together from two to three hours, and as they
did not go far away unless an endeavour was made to approach them,
repeated and decided evidence was obtained of the purpose for which they
were thus associated ; as they became more familiar, the absences of the dog
were of longer continuance, until at length he did not return, having pro-
bably fallen a sacrifice in an encounter with a male wolf ; the female,
however, continued fo visit the ships as before, and enticed a second dog in
the same manner, which, after several meetings, returned so severely bitten,
as to be disabled for many days.

It is believed, that this is the first authenticated instance of an undomes-

clxxxvi

APPENDIX^

ticated wolf having intercourse with a dog ; when tamed, it is well known
that they will readily breed together.

Whatever doubts may have once prevailed, it is now ascertained by the
observations of modern naturalists, that neither in conformation, nor in the
period of gestation, does any such difference exist between the wolf and dog,
as will warrant a specific distinction. The manner of carrying the tail has been
considered a difference ; but amongst the Esquimaux dogs which have fallen
under the notice of the late and the present expedition, there have been indivi-
duals who constantly carried their tails in the manner which was supposed to
be peculiar to the wolf ; these dogs approach nearer to the wolf in its wild
state, than any of the other domesticated varieties ; a young female was pro-
cured from the Esquimaux who were communicated with in Davis’ Strait on
the 7th of September, in the hope that by her means the perfect breed might
be kept up in this country for the satisfaction of naturalists, a male which
was brought to England by the former expedition being still alive ; but she
unfortunately disappeared from the Hecla during the detention of the ship in
Leith roads to refit, and from subsequent inquiry, it is feared that she has
ceased to exist as a living specimen. The only female which was brought
home by the former expedition was presented to the ,Royal Menagerie at
Paris, and has furnished the subject of an article in the splendid work of
Messrs. Saint Hilaire and Frederic Cuvier, L'Histoire Naturelle des Mammiferes;
from whence the following passage has been extracted, for the purpose of no-
ticing an erroneous supposition which it contains, and into which these eminent
naturalists have been accidentally misled: — “ Nous devons ces pr^cieux Ani-
“ rnaux a M. le docteur Leach, qui, en ayant obtenu une femelle pleine, au
“ retour de l’exp6dition du Capitaine Ross, a bien voulu nous I’envoy^r. Cette
“ femelle a mis bas trois petits, un male et deux femelles, qui suffiront sans
“ doute pour nous conserve!' une race dont I’intelligence et la force, appliquees
“ a nos besoins domestiques, pourront nous rendre d’utiles services. Aucune de
“ nos races de Chiens, qui se rapportent a celle-ci, ne sont aussi belles et aussi
fortes,” By an omission, doubtless of inadvertency, the keepers of the mena-

ZOOLOGY.

clxxxvii

gerie were not apprized that the female in question was with young by a
Newfoundland dog, belonging to an officer of the Isabella ; and it has unfor-
tunately happened, that the plate of the “ Chien des Esquimaux de la Bale
de Baffin,” as well as the minute measurements and description in the letter-
press, are taken, not from the mother, but from one of the young after it had
attained its full growth ; and it is not, therefore, a representation of a
genuine Esquimaux dog as the authors designed. It is probable, however,
that the mixed breed may possess the qualities which are ascribed to it by
Messrs. Saint Hilaire and Cuvier, of strength and intelligence applicable to
our domestic purposes, to as great an extent as the pure Esquimaux breed ;
and, judging from the plate, it is certainly not inferior in beauty.

5. Can IS Lagopus. Arctic Fox.

Inhabits all the countries which were visited by the expedition, and remains
in the North Georgian Islands throughout the year, several having been
caught in the winter : they differed in no respect from the descriptions of
authors ; the flesh is white, and without the rank smell of the common fox.

6. Lepus Glacialis. Polar Hare.

L. albus, auribus apice nigris capite longioribus, caud4 abbreviate, unguibus
validis latis depressis.

Inhabits Greenland, the southern coast of Barrow’s Strait, and the North
Georgian Islands where they are very abundant. Considerable numbers
were killed in the summer as a supply of provision for the ships’ companies ;
they were usually shot whilst feeding in ravines, and near the bottom of steep
cliffs by the sea-side, which they ascend with great agility on being alarmed,
and secure themselves in their holes amongst the loose stones near the top of
the cliffs. None were seen during the winter,* but it does not seem probable
that they had quitted the island.

clxxxviii

APPENDIX.

This species is larger than the L. Variabilis; the average weight being
about 8 lbs. ; the eai’s are longer in proportion to the head than those of the
common hare, (L. Timidus,) and much longer than those of the L. Variabilis ;
the ears of the common hare are usually considered one-tenth longer than
the head, those of the present species are from one-fifth to one-seventh ; the
fore teeth are curves of a much larger circle, and the orbits of the eye project
much more than those of either of the other species ; the toes are five before
and four behind, the fifth toe of the fore foot being very small, scarcely
indeed more than a claw, and situated close to the knee the claws are
broad, depressed, and strong: those of the L. Timidus and Variabilis being,
on the contrary, compressed and weak : the hind leg is shorter in proportion
to the size of the animal, than in the Variabilis. The fur is exceedingly thick
and woolly, of the purest white in spring and autumn, excepting a tuft of long
black hair at the tips of the ears, which is reddish brown at the base : the
whiskers are also black at the base for half their length. In some of the full
grown specimens killed in the height of summer, the hair of the back and
sides was a greyish brown towards the points, but the mass of fur
beneath still remained white ; the face and the front of the ears were
a deeper grey. The fur is interspersed with long solitary hairs which,
in many individuals were banded with brown and white in the middle
of summer. The hares which Mr. Hearne describes in his northern
voyage to inhabit the continent of America as high as the 72° of lati-
tude, are stated to weigh 14 or 15 lbs., when full grown, and in good con-
dition : the largest hare which was killed at Melville Island, did not amount
to 9 lbs. Were it not for this difference in size, they might be supposed, from
other parts of the description, to be the same species.

7. Lemmus Hudsonius. Hudson's Bay Lemming.

Are abundant in the country on the west side of Davis’ Strait, and in the
islands of the Polar Sea, but are probably unknown in Greenland, as they

ZOOLOGY.

Glxxxix

are not mentioned by Fabricius. They live in summer in burrows, and in
winter in nests of moss on the surface of the ground beneath the snow, rarely
going abroad during the severity of winter. This species is distin-
guished by the prolongation of the two middle toes of the fore feet
into a pointed callus beneath the claw, making the toes appear double
clawed: the same peculiarity is observable in the outer toes, but in a
much less degree, and it is altogether less marked in the female and young,
than in the male. The tail is not quite half an inch in length, terminating
with long stiff hairs, which alone appear beyond the fur ; it is erroneously
stated in the R^gne Animale to be without a tail. The length of a full grown
male specimen is less than six inches, the females are not so large. The fur is
soft and long, deep gray at the base, and white at the points in winter ; the
white being mottled in summer with black and reddish brown on the back,
and with reddish brown on the under parts. The fore-feet have four toes with
claws, and the rudiment of a fifth toe without a claw, at the hinder part of
the fore foot.

8. Bos Moscatus. Musk Ox.

This species of ox inhabits the North Georgian Islands in the summer months,
but being less numerous than the rein-deer, and more difficult to approach,
three individuals only were killed, all of which were bulls. They arrived in
Melville Island in the middle of May, crossing the ice from the southward,
and quitted it on their return towards the end of September. The musk ox
maybe further stated, on Esquimaux information, to inhabit the country on the
west of Davis’ Strait, and on the north of Baffin’s Bay : as a head and horns
and a drawing of a bull being shewn to the Esquimaux of the west coast of
Davis’ Strait who were communicated with on the 7th of September, were
immediately recognised, and the animal called by the name 'of Umingmack ;
this is evidently the same with the Umimak of the Esquimaux of Wolstenhohne
Sound, who were visited by the former expedition, and of which nothing
more could be learnt at the time from their description than that it Avas a

2 a 3

cxc

APPENDIX.

large horned animal inhabiting the land, and certainly not a rein-deer. It is
probable that the individuals which extend their summer migration to the
north-east of Baffin’s Bay, retire during the winter to the continent of
America, or to its neighbourhood, as the species is unknown in South Green-
land, There can be no doubt that it was the head of an animal of the present
species which is described in the Fauna Groenlandica to have been conveyed on
a piece of ice to the shores of Greenland and which is there erroneously con-
jectured to have belonged to the Bos Grunniens. It is a curious fact, however,
that although none of the Greenlanders had ever seen the animal to which
the head belonged, they should have given it the same name of Umimak,
as is mentioned by O. Fabricius ; this fact may seem to justify an inference
that the animal itself was known to them by tradition ; and may thus, in
some measure, corroborate the general belief that their ancestors came from
a country to the north and west of the one which they now inhabit.

The flesh of the bulls which were killed by the expedition was generally
liked, although tasting strongly of musk. The weight of each individual
exceeded 700 lbs., yielding about 400 lbs. of meat ; the head and skin Aveighed
130 lbs. ; they stood 10| hands high at the withers. A very correct repre-
sentation of the bull is given in a plate, from a drawing of Lieutenant Beechey’s.

The projection of the orbits of the eyes in this species is very remarkable,
when compared with others of the same genus ; it is probably a provision to
carry the eye clear of the great quantity of hair which the severity of the
cold renders necessary in such high latitudes.

9, Cervus Tarandus. Rem-deer.

Inhabit the North Georgian Islands in summer in considerable numbers,
arriving towards the middle of May, and retiring to the south before the first
week in October. In the course of the season 24 were killed, and afforded
an agreeable supply of fresh provision to the ship s companies.

The species is too Avell known to require any further remark.

ZOOLOGY.

CXCI

10. Phoca Vitulina, Common Seal.

A seal was killed in Baffin’s Bay whilst sleeping on a fragment of ice,
which agreed in all respects with the description of the P. Vitulina in the
Fauna Groenlandica, so far as it goes, the relative proportion of the toes not
being noticed in that work. In this individual the middle toe of the fore
flipper was the longest, the others on each side decreasing in length, so that
the two exterior were half an inch shorter than the middle one. This forma-
tion does not agree with the general accounts of authors of the P. Vitulina,
but is equally inapplicable to any other described species ; it does not indeed
accord with the generic character of the Phoca in the Regne Animate. In
the hind flipper the exterior toes were the longest, and were connected by
a thick membrane, containing three other slender and shorter toes.

A young seal, which was given by the master of a whaler to the officers
of the Alexander, one of the ships on the former voyage, became so entirely
domesticated and attached to the ship, that it was frequently put into the
sea, and suffered to swim at perfect liberty, and when tired would return of
itself to the boat’s side to be taken in.

Seals were very abundant whilst the ships remained in Davis’ Strait and
Baffin’s Bay ; amongst them the P. Barbata and P. Groenlandica were believed
to be recognised, but were not killed. Very few were seen after the entrance
of the Expedition into the Polar Sea, in consequence of there being so little
open water.

11. Trichecus Rosmarus. Walrus.

A young male not full grown was killed in Davis’ Strait, being in
length, from the nose to the extremity of the hind flipper, ten feet three
inches, and weighing 1,384 Tbs. This animal is so well known that a particular
description is unnecessary. The number of grinders were five on each side in

CXCll

APPENDIX.

the upper jaw, and four in the lower. O. Fabricius and Cuvier describe only
four in either jaw ; but Muller (Prodromus) mentions having seen a Green-
land specimen with five in the upper. The eyes are prominent, rather than
sunken, as stated by Pennant. It might also be erroneously inferred that
the walrus has a tail, from an expression in the Arctic Zoology, “ body very
thick in the middle, lessening gradually towards the tail”

12. Monodon Monoceros. Narwhal.

An individual of this species was killed in Prince Regent’s Inlet; the
horn was unfortunately not perfect, a piece having been broken off the end
by some accident ; the part which remained was above four feet in length
externally, the diameter at the insertion an inch and six-tenths, and at the
broken end eight-tenths of an inch ; the length of the animal from the
insertion of the horn to the fork of the tail, thirteen feet five inches and
a half ; the spiracle at the summit of the head, fourteen inches and a half
from the extremity of the snout, two inches eight-tenths in diameter, having
a membrane in the interior, dividing it into two parts ; the fins were two
feet four inches and a half from the insertion of the horn, six inches and
a half broad at the base, seven inches and a half in the middle which is
the broadest part, and fifteen inches long; the skin half an inch thick,
marbled black and white in the back, beneath white ; the fins black.

Besides the twelve species of Mammalia which have been thus described,
the, Balaena Mysticetus, B. Physalus, and the Delphinus Albicans, were fre-
quently seen, but no individual of either species was killed.

ZOOLOGY.

CXClll

BIRDS.

On the return of the Expedition of 1818, an account of the various species
of birds which had been seen during that voyage, was presented to the
Linnean Society by Captain Sabine, and has been published in the 12th
volume of their Transactions, being entitled, “ A Memoir on the Birds of
Greenland.”

Many of ' the^ species seen in the present voyage having been already
noticed therein, it has been considered preferable to refer to the Memoir in,
such cases, rather than to repeat the accounts which it contained ; the
reference being considered to imply the confirmation of subsequent expe-
rience ; the new matter which this voyage has furnished, is given in the
present account. The species which were not seen in the first voyage
are described here on the same plan as on the former occasion, and the same
authors are referred to.

Since the publication of the Memoir, Mr. Temminck has printed a second
edition of his excellent work, the Manuel d'Ornithologie de I’Europe, much
improved and extended. This edition has been consulted on the present
occasion, and references to it are added in all cases.

1. Strix Nvctea. Snowy Owl.

Gmel. i. 291. Lath. Ind. i. 57, Syn. i. 132. Arct. Zool. no. 121. Wil. Am. Orn. iv. 53. Fabr. no. 36.

Faun. Suec. 76. Temm. 82,

Several pairs of this species were seen during the summer months on the
islands in the Polar Sea; but being very wary, and the country affording
little shelter to the sportsman, only a single individual was killed.

It may be remarked, generally, of all the birds which frequent these islands
in the breeding season, that they arrive in May, and depart Avith their young

CXCIV

APPENDIX.

broods in October, and that not a single species remains during the dreary
season of winter.

An instance did indeed occur in February, of a bird being said to be seen
by a sailor of the Hecla, who was walking on Melville Island at no great
distance from the ships. He described it as a large white bird flying very
near the ground. If it were indeed a bird, it was most probably a strix
ni/ctea ; but as neither this, nor any other individual were observed before
or afterwards, until the general arrival in May, and as scarcely a day
passed afterwards in which birds of this species were not seen, it seems
reasonable to conclude that this solitary, and somewhat uncertain, instance
does not justify an exception to the above general remark.

2. CoRvus CoRAX. Raven.

Greenl. Birds, no. 3. Temm. 107. >

Several pairs were seen at Melville Island ; the individuals which were
killed differed in no respect from the European specimens.

3. Emberiza Nivalis. Snow Bunting.

Greenl. Birds, no. 5. Temm. 319.

Very numerous in the North Georgian Islands, where they are amongst the
earliest arrivals ; attempts were made to keep them on, board in cages through
the winter, but were unsuccessful ; they soon became apparently reconciled
to the confinement, but did not long survive the loss of liberty.

4. Caprimulgus Americanos. Musqueto Hawk.

Wil. Am, Orn. v. 65, Arct. Zool. no. 337.

A female of this species was found on Melville Island, lying dead on the
ground about a quarter of a mile from the sea. These birds are known to

ZOOLOGY.

CXCV

breed and inhabit as far north as Hudson’s Bay ; but as they live principally
in woods, and feed on mosquitoes and other winged insects, which are very
rare in the North Georgian Islands, it is more than probable that the present
individual was an accidental visitor, and had died from the want of food.
It was extremely thin, but otherwise the plumage was in good preservation.
Wilson’s Plate and description of this species is most accurate ; Fabricius
does not mention it as known in Greenland.

5. Tetrao Rupestris. Rock Grous.

Grad. 751. Lath. Ind. ii. 640. no. 11. — T. Lagopus. Greenl. Birds, no. 4. T’em/w. 468 ? — Rock Grous,
Arct. Zool. no. 184. Lath. Syn. Supp. i. 217.

In the description in the Memoir on the Greenland Birds, of the Grous killed
at Hare Island, it was observed that their plumage was in some respects
different from the Scotch Ptarmigan, but the difference was considered
as the effect of climate operating on one and the same species ; the
circumstance, however, of birds exactly similar to the Scotch Ptarmigan
having been killed on the opposite coast of Davis’ Strait, during the present
voyage, has induced a closer investigation, and has led to the belief that two
distinct species were confounded on the former occasion ; the Scotch Ptarmi-
gan and the birds which correspond in every respect with them and which
inhabit the country on the south-west side of Baffin’s Bay, being the Tetrao
Lagopus of Gmelin ; whilst the species found at Hare Island, and
subsequently in great abundance in the North Georgian Islands is the
Tetrao Rupestris of the same author, and the Rock Grous of the Arctic
Zoology, and is the subject of the present article.

This species undergoes the same changes from season as the T. Lagopus ;
in winter both sexes are white, with the exception of the^ tail feathers,
and of a black bar from the bill through the eye, peculiar to the male. In
this state, they arrived at Melville Island on the 12th of May ; on the 31st, a
female was killed, of which a great part of the white feathers of the head,
neck, and back had moulted, and were replacing by coloured feathers, being

CXCVl

APPENDIX.

the first bird which was observed in change ; by the end of the first week in
June the summer plumage of the females was generally complete, and a change
had commenced in a few of the males ; some of the latter were however
killed, as late as the middle of June, in which no alteration of their winter
plumage had taken place. The distribution of the coloured plumage of
summer corresponds both in the male and female with the Ptanmigan, the
same parts of both species remaining white ; but there is much difference in
the colour itself ; the upper plumage of the Ptarmigan is cinereous, with
undulating and narrow black lines and minute spots, whereas in the
Rock Grous each feather is black, cut by transverse broad lines or bars of a
reddish yellow, which do not reach on either side so far as the shaft, and have
spaces of black between them, broader than the bars themselves ; the feathers
are tipt with a light colour in the male, approaching to white in the female.
The tail consists of fourteen feathers, which do not undergo changes from
season. In the greater number of individuals, the whole fourteen are black with
white tips, but in occasional-specimens, the two middle ones are entirely white,
and in others partly black, and partly white ; and this has been found to be the
case in individuals of a pack, others of which had not the same peculiarities.
It is, doubtless, in consequence of this accidental variation that “ rectricibus
atris apice albis, infermediis totis albis” forms erroneously a part of the specific
character of the T. Rupestris in Gmelin. The superior and inferior tail
coverts are very long, exceeding occasionally the length of the tail itself;
these feathers change from white in winter to the same colour as the upper
plumage in summer.

The average length of the male specimens is 13| inches ; of females 12| ;
both sexes are inferior in size to the Lagopus ; the two species resemble
each other in the formation and colour of the claws and bill, and in the
naked space above the eye, terminated by a dentated membrane, larger and
more conspicuous in the male than in the female.

The ground colour of the egg of the Rock Grous, is a pale reddish brown,
irregularly blotched and spotted with darker brown.

ZOOLOGY.

CXCVll

The young in autumn resemble the summer plumage of the parents ; but
are not quite so regularly marked.

These birds are easily killed, especially in the breeding season, when the
female will suffer herself to be taken on the nest. When in pairs the male
will not quit the female on her being shot. They were killed in con-
dderable numbers in Melville Island, as a supply of provision to the ships’
companies.

This species is not found in the British Islands.

6. Tetrao Lagopus. Ptarmigan.

Gmel. 749. Lath. Ind. ii. 639. no. 9. Fabr. 80. — Ptarmigan. Arct. Zool. p. 315. Mont. Orn. Diet.

Lath. Si/n. iv. 741.

Inhabits the country South of Barrow’s Strait and East of Regent’s Inlet,
but was not met with in the North Georgian Islands. It is the ptarmigan of
Scotland. The specific character of the T. Lagopus of Gmelin, commencing
with “ Cinereus" marks it as referable to the present species, the coloured
plumage of which in the summer season is cinereous, Avith minute black
lines and spots, excepting in the head and neck, where it is rightly charac-
terized by the same author, as marked with “ broad bands of black,
ferruginous, and white the white prevails in the throat, and the black and
ferruginous in the crown and hind head.

This species has also fourteen black feathers with white tips, which
undergo no change from season ; it has also two additional middle in-
cumbent feathers, which the preceding species has not. These feathers
are very variable in colour; in some specimens, both of summer and
winter birds, they are white ; in others, also of both seasons, they
approach to black, with broad white tips; and in occasional summer
specimens they are of the same colour as the upper plumage ; these two
feathers are exclusive of six long feathers of the superior (coverts, the outer
ones being shorter than the others,) which are white in winter, and cinereous,
Avaved Avith minute bars of black, in the summer.

3 b 2

CXCVlll

APPENDIX.

This description includes all the specimens which have been examined,
of both Scotch and Arctic birds ; it agrees also with the account in Montagu
of the individuals which had come under his notice from Norway and Scot-
land ; but it does not agree with the specific character of the Lagopus given
by Temminck “ dioc-huit pennes dla queue, of which the two middlemost are de-
scribed as changing from season ; nor does it precisely with Fabricius’ descrip-
tion of his Greenland Lagopus in the Faun. Green. No. 80., where the interme-
diate and incumbent feathers are to be stated four instead of two ; the number
of the true tail feathers, however, corresponding with the present description.
After a very careful examination of the accounts which these authors have
given of the birds which they have respectively designated as T. Lagopus,
it appears by no means decided to which species they refer, whether to the
present or to the preceding ; the “ dorsum et uropygium nigro cinerascentique
undulata,” would seem to refer Fabricius’ to the present species ; whereas
the description of both sexes in the summer plumage in Temminck’s second
edition very nearly accords with the birds which were obtained in Melville
Island, and which are here considered the Rupestris ; this opinion is consi-
derably strengthened by the comparison of a specimen recently received
from Mr. Temminck, as his European T. Lagopus, with the Melville Island
birds, wherein no other difference is perceptible, than that the reddish-
yellow markings are rather more vivid and predominant in the European
specimen.

The males average fifteen inches, the females fourteen inches in length.

The Tetrao Salicetti of Temminck (Albus of Gmelin and other authors) is
distinguishable from either of the species which have been now described, 1st.
by its superiority in size ; 2d, by the shape of the bill and claws, and by the
colour of the latter, which is white in the Salicetti, and dark, approaching
to black, in the Lagopus and Rupestris ; 3dly, by the absence of the black
line through the eye in the male ; 4thly, by the general colour of the summer’s
plumage, which is deep orange in the Salicetti, crossed by narrow and
waving black bars and spots on the back, and pure on the breast.

ZOOLOGY.

CXCIX

7. Calidris Arenaria. Sanderling.

Temm. 524.

Winter. Tringa Arenaria. Gmel. i. 680. Wil. Am. Orn. vii. 68, Sanderling. Arct.
Zool. no. 403. Lath. Syn. v. 197. Mont. Orn. Diet. Sf Supp.

Summer. Charadrius Rubidus. Gmel. i. 688. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. 740. Wil. Am. Orn.
vii. 129. — Ruddy Plover. Arct. Zool. no. 404. Lath. Syn. v. 195. Mont. Orn. Diet. ^ Supp.

Young. Charadrius Calidris. Gmel. i. 689. Lath. Ind. ii. 741. — Sanderling. Lath.
Syn. V. 197. ^ Supp. 253.

Breed in considerable numbers on the North Georgian Islands: several
pairs were killed at different periods of the breeding season, the males and
females of which were invariably found to differ in their plumage ; the
general colour of the female being lighter, and having more cinerepus and
less of black and reddish marking than that of the male : this is especially
the case in the chin, throat, and fore part of the neck ; which may be
described in the female as white, with a very slight sprinkling of dark spots,
and scarcely any appearance of red ; whereas, in the males, the dark colours
greatly predominate. The quill feathers of both sexes, and of all the speci-
mens, were reddish-brown in those parts of the birds, which are usually
described by some authors as being black.

8. Charadrius Pluvialis. Golden Plover.

Temm. 535.

Winter. Gmel. i. p. 688. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. 740. Syn. v. 193. Arct. Zool. no. 399-
Wil. Am. Orn. vii. 71. Faun. Suec. no. 190.

Summer. C. Apriearius. Gmel. i. 687. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. 742. Fair. no. 79. Wil.
Am. Orn. vii. 41. Faun. Suec. no. 189. — Alwargrim Plover. Lath. Syn. v. 198. ^ Supp. i. 252.
Arct. Zool. no. 398. ^ Supp. 69.

Breeds in the swampy parts of the North Georgian Islands in considerable
abundance. In the young birds, killed in the latter part of August and in
September, the colours of the head and upper plumage were scarcely less
vivid than in their parents ; the neck and breast being ah obscure but pale
cinereous brown, on which the future spotting was just discernible ; the

cc

APPENDIX.

whole inferior plumage was a very faint brown, without the mixture or
appearance of black feathers in a single instance.

9, Charadrius Hiaticula. Ring Plover.

Greenl. Birds, no. 10. Temm. 539.

Abundant on the shores of Possession Bay and of Regent’s Inlet. The indivi-
duals which were killed corresponded to the description of Temminck, except
that the colour of the tail feathers was pale-brown at the base, differing in
shade into almost black ; the outer feather on each side, both shaft and web,
being a pure white, as well as the tips of the whole twelve.

10. Strepsilas Collaris. Turnstone.

Temm. 553. — Tringa Interpres. Gmel. i. 671. Lath. Ind. ii. 738. Wil. Am. Orn. vii. 32. Fab.
no. 74. Faun. Suec. 178. Briin. 175. — Turnstone. Lath. Si/n. v. 188. — Hebridal Sandpiper.
Arct. Zool. 382.

Young . Tringa Morinella. Gmel. i. 671. Lath. Syn. v. 189. Varieties of the Turnstone.

Breeds in the North Georgian Islands. The specimens which were killed
agreed in all respects with the description of the full-plumaged bird in Tem-
minck and in Wilson. The peculiarity in the hind toe of this species seems
to have escaped the observation of the generality of authors ; Wilson being
the only one, amongst those who are referred to above, who has noticed it.
It turns inwards, instead of taking as is usual, a straight direction backwards.

The legs are deep orange-red during the height of the breeding
season.

II. Tringa Variabilis. Dunlin.

/

Temm. 612. — Tringa Alpina. Greenl. Birds, no. 9.

Rare on the coast of Davis’ Strait and of Baffin’s Bay, and in the islands of
the Polar Sea. The specific name of Alpina, by which this species was distin-
guished in the Memoir on the Greenland Birds, has been changed to Variabilis,

ZOOLOGY.

CCl

, which is a more appropriate name, and is adopted by Mr. Temminck in his
second edition, where the history of its various states of plumage is correctly
given, and the errors pointed out into which preceding naturalists, with the
exception of Montagu and Wilson, had fallen.

12. Tringa Cineria. Knot.

Greenl. Birds, 7io. 8. Temrn. 627.

Breeds in great abundance on the North Georgian Islands. In the indivi-
duals killed in the height of the season the red of the breast was fully as deep
as in the plate in Wilson’s Am. Orn., and extended invariably to the under
tail coverts, being very sparingly marked with white on the abdomen, and with
a few longitudinal black streaks. The hind toe of the Knot is directed in-
wards, as is that of the Turnstone.

13. Tringa Maritima. Purple Sandpiper.

Greenl. Birds, no. 7. Temm. 619.

Abundant on the coast of Davis’ Strait and of Baffin’s Bay, where it breeds ;
but was not met with in the islands of the Polar Sea. The history of its dif-
ferent states of plumage is correctly given in the second edition of the Manuel
d’Ornithologie. It may be stated, in addition, that the young birds which
were killed shortly after they quitted the nest, had the feathers of the back
and scapulars edged with white, changing gradually as the season advanced
into an approximation to the clear red, which is described as the marking of
the bird of the first year. The change takes place in the scapulars earlier
than in the feathers of the back.

14. Phalaropus Platyrynchos. Flat billed Phalarope.

Greenl. Birds, no. 12. Temm. 712.

Abundant during the summer months on the North Georgian Islands : the

ecu

APPENDIX.

difference in the size of the sexes, and of their plumage in the breeding
season, appears to have been hitherto unnoticed ;

Ins. Ins. Oz.

The males average in length 7.6, in extent 16.2, and in weight 1|.

The females 8.4, 17 2.

The breeding plumage of the male corresponds minutely with the descrip-
tion which Temminck has assigned to both sexes : the female has the fore-
head, crown, and hind-head a uniform deep sooty black, without intermixture
of orange or red.: the band which passes through the eye is a pure white,
and is larger and better defined than in the male, including more space above
and in front of the eye ; the black predominates in the back and scapulars, the
orange bordering of the feathers being smaller and much lighter than in the
male ; the under plumage is of a deeper and richer brick-red colour, and is
unmixed with white feathers for a much longer portion of the season : the
female bird attains her perfect plumage earlier in the year, and retains it
longer than the male, which is also the case with several other of the northern
birds.

15. Sterna Arctica. Arctic Tern.

Temm. 742. — Sterna Hirundo. Greenl. Birds, no. 17

In the Memoir on the Birds of Greenland, it was remarked that a difference
existed between the Terns of that country, and those of the European coasts,
in the bill and legs ; the bills of the former being one-third shorter, and their
tarsi only half the length of those of Europe. Although this difference was
considered sufficient to have justified a specific distinction, the name of Sterna
Hirundo was still retained in the memoir, from the conviction that the errors
which arise from a hesitation to create new species, are less injurious to
natural history, than those which result from the opposite practice. Mr.
Temminck, however, whose very extensive experience gives confidence to
his decisions, has treated them as distinct species, in his second edition ; and
in reliance on his authority, the name of Sterna Arctica has been adopted

ZOOLOGY.

CClll

for the northern species. Two immature specimens of the S. Arctica were
killed on the 8th of July from amongst a large flock of full-plumaged birds,
and may supply a description of a bird of the first year ; bill black, the lower
mandible having a reddish tinge, especially near the edges, and at the base ;
forehead, throat, neck, and inferior plumage, white, very slightly tinged on
the breast and belly with a faint ash-colour. The cap mottled black and
white, the upper plumage ash-colour, the wing coverts indistinctly mot-
tled with brown, the outer web of the first primary quill feather velvet
black at the base, shading into ash-colour towards the point, a portion of the
inner webs near the shaft is of a deeper shade than the remainder ; the outer
feathers of the tail exceed the middle ones in length three inches ; the scapu-
lars and secondaries tipped white ; the colour of the legs in process of change
from black to red.

The middle claw of this species,”^as well as of the S. Hirundo, is much longer
than the other claws, and is curved laterally outwards.

16. Larus Glaucus. Glaums Gull.

Greenl, Birds, no. \9. Temm. 757.

This fine species of gull is as numerous in the Polar Sea, as in Baffin’s Bay
and Davis’ Strait, occupying with their nests the pinnacles of rocks and the pro-
jecting ledges of cliffs on the sea-shore. In the Memoir on the Greenland Birds,
it is stated to be somewhat inferior in size to the L. Marinus, whereas in
Temminck’s second edition, the Glaucus is called the largest of known gulls.
In comparing the size of many specimens of both species, the average is in
favour of the Marinus ; but by far the largest individual of either is a Glaucus
killed on the north shore of Barrow’s Strait, being in length 32 inches, in ex-
tent 65 inches, and weighing 4 lbs. 3 ozs. The tarsus was 3.4i inches, and
the bill exceeded 4 inches, prodigiously strong and arched ; the upper man-
dible overhooking the lower more than is customary. It was a male bird.

CCIV

APPENDIX.

There appears a considerable variation in the size of individuals, in all the
larger species of gulls.

17. Larus Argent atus. Silvery Gull.

Greenl. Birds, no. 20. Temm. 764.

In the Memoir on the Birds of Greenland, the species described under this
name was identified on the authority of Mr. Temminck with the common her-
ring gidl of our coasts ; the absence of the black markings of the primary quill
feathers, which alone constitutes the distinction between them, being consi-
dered by that eminent naturalist as a variation of plumage occasioned by
climate : thus the Larus Argentatus was made to comprise two varieties, one
peculiar to the Greenland seas, having the quill feathers a very faint
ash-colour, with the ends and under parts white, without the admixture of
black; and the other the common herring gull. The present Expedition
has furnished an instance which may be considered to confirm Mr. Tem-
minck’s decision ; amongst a number of the Greenland variety which had
their nests on a cliff on one of the North Georgian Islands, one individual
was observed to have black markings on the wings, and was fortunately se-
cured : on comparing this specimen with birds which have been killed on
our own coasts, the black markings of the quill feathers are found to corre-
spond precisely in shape and situation ; the only perceptible difference being
that the dark colour is not quite so deep in shade in the Polar as in the
European specimens.

18. Larus Eburneus. Ivory Gull.

Greenl. Birds, no. 21. Temm. 769.

A fine specimen of a bird of the; first year was killed in Davis’ Strait on the
14th of September, having all the immature markings of the individual
described by Temminck as shot in Switzerland in March, with the ad-
dition of numerous spots on the shoulders and spurious wings ; this species

ZOOLOGY.

CCV

which is so common in Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay, was rarely seen in the
Polar Sea, on account, probably, of there being less open water, and conse-
quently greater difficulty in obtaining a supply of food.

19. Larus Tridactylus. Kittiwake Gull.

Greenl, Birds, no. 22. Temm. 774.

These, like the preceding species, were very rarely seen in the Polar Sea ;
so late in the season as the 17th of July, an immature bird was killed in
Davis’ Strait, having very slight remains of the circle round the neck, and of
the mottled head, but retaining the markings of immaturity on the coverts of
the wing.s, and at the tips of the tail feathers, as decidedly as in winter
specimens. Adult specimens had been killed on the eighth of July, in the
perfect plumage of summer.

20. Larus Sab ini. Pork -tailed Gull.

Greenl. Birds, no. 23.

One of these gulls was seen on the wing in Prince Regent’s Inlet in
August, and was pursued, but without success ; it was, however, identified
with certainty by the persons who had been present on the former Voyage,
when they were first met with.

The history of this species presents a remarkable instance of confined
locality ; in the account which is referred to, it is stated to have been found on
three small islands in Baffin’s Bay in latitude 75|°, breeding in great numbers
in company with terns, and to have been previously unknown to Saccheus, the
Esquimaux interpreter, who was well acquainted with the birds of his native
country, namely,- of Greenland south of Disco, where it is therefore pre-
sumed to be unknown ; there are few parts of the coasts of Baffin’s Bay or of
Davis’ Strait, which have not been visited by either the present or the former
Expedition, but in no instance have these birds been met with before or
since, with the exception of the one individual in Prince Regent’s Inlet ; their

2 c 2

)

CCVl

APPENDIX.

winter residence is entirely unknown, nor can any of the descriptions of new
or doubtful species of gulls which have been killed on passage in America,
be considered to belong to the present species in any possible variation of
its plumage ; the characteristic marks are peculiar and distinctive.

Besides the specimens which were brought to England in 1818, one only
is known to exist in any collection ; namely, the one which on Mr. Tem-
minck’s information has been stated to have been presented to the Museum
at Vienna by Sir Charles Giesecke, but of which no account has hitherto been
published ; it is not known, therefore, from whence this specimen was ob-
tained, especially as the existence of an undescribed species of gull is not
noticed in Giesecke’s enumeration of the birds of Greenland published in
Brewster’s Cyclopcedia, nor in his MSS. list in the possession of Mr, Bullock.
The three islands above-mentioned, are therefore as ,yet the only land
which these birds are known to inhabit.

21. Lestris Parasiticus. Arctic Lestris.

Greenl. Birds, no. 24. Temm. 796.

Is equally abundant in the islands of the Polar Sea as in Baffin’s Bay ; and
is frequently met with inland, seeking its food along the water-courses which
occupy the bottom of ravines ; differing in this respect from the next species
which is more exclusively a sea bird.

22. Lestris Pomarinus. Pomarine Lestris.

Temm. 793. ^

Several individuals, corresponding in all respects with the description
referred to, were killed in Prince Regent’s Inlet ; both species of Lestris were
also seen at Melville Island, but the Pomarinus more rarely than the
Parasiticus,

23. Procellaria Glacialis, Fulmar Petrel.

Greenl. Birds, no. 25. Temm. 803.

ZOOLOGY.

CCVll

24. Anas Cygnus. Wild Swan.

Gmel. i. 501. Lath, Ind, Orn. ii. 833. Temm. 829. Faun. Suec. 107. Br'dn. no. 44. — Wild Swan, Syn.
vi. 433. <§r Supp. i. 272. Arc. Zool. no. 469. ^ Supp. 75.

Breeds in the North Georgian Islands, but is by no means numerous, and
a single specimen only was obtained ; this individual corresponds with the
accounts of authors, excepting that the white plumage of the breast and
thighs is intermixed with the same yellow feathers as on the crown and hind
head, though not quite so deep in colour. Those of the crown are rather
golden than yellowish as they are usually described.

25. Anas Bernicla. Brejit Goose.

Gmel. i. B\B. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. 844. Wil. An. Orn. viii. 131. Fair, 41. Faun. Suec. 115. Br'dn. 52.
Temm. 824. — Brent Goose. Syn. vi. 467. Arc. Zool. no. 478.

Breed in great numbers on the islands in the Polar Sea. The plumage of
the female is less vivid during the height of the season than that of the male ;
she is also rather smaller, the average difference in their length exceeding an
inch.

26. Anas Spectabilis. King Duck.

Greenl. Birds, no. 26. Temm.SSl.

This species as well as the preceding are very abundant in the North
Georgian Islands, having their nests on the ground in the neighbourhood of
fresh water-ponds, and feeding on the aquatic vegetation. The egg is
shorter than that of the Eider Duck, rather t»roader across in the widest
part, and more tapering ; of a cinereous olive colour, not whitish, as stated
erroneously by Montague, but less green than the egg of the Eider. Mr.
Temminck’s description of the male bird is generally correct ; but he has
omitted to notice the peculiarity of the tertial feathers of the wing, which curve
outwards in a remarkable manner over the primaries ; nor can the colour of the
wings be called a deep black, being ferruginous, especially in the inner webs.

CCVlll

APPENDIX.

The plumage of the female very much resembles that of the female Eider,
but the two species may be always distinguished by the bill, the gibbous
part of which is arched on the top in the King, and flattened in the Eider.
The bill of the latter is also longer, and the feathers on the side of the upper
mandible extend as low down as they do on the lower mandible, which is
not the case in the King Duck. The colours of the plumage of the head and
neck of the Eider nearly correspond with those of the body, whereas in the
King they are much lighter. Some of the female Kings which were killed
had the whole of their under parts an uniform dark brown, whilst others had
more or less of dark markings on a lighter ground. The hind toes in both
sexes are smaller than those of the Eider.

A young male was killed, towards the end of September, which bore the
same resemblance to the female as the young male Eider does to the female
of its own species.

27. Anas Mollissima. Eider Duck.

Greenl. Birds, no. 27. Tenim. 848.

Is abundant on the shores of Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay ; but, deriving
its food principally from the sea, was not met with after the entrance of the
ships into the Polar Ocean, where so little open water is found. The females
were without the white bands on the wings, which are described by authors.

28. Anas Glacialis, hong-tailed Duck.

Greenl. Birds, no. 28. Temm. 860. ^

Breeds in the North Georgian Islands, but is not common there. A male
bird was obtained in June, corresponding precisely with the individual killed
in Baffin’s Bay in the summer of 1818, which furnished the description of the
full-breeding plumage in the Mefnoir oj^ the Greenland Birds. An account of
this state of plumage is yet wanting to complete the history of this species
in Mr. Temminck’s second edition. The plumage of a young male, killed

ZOOLOGY.

CCIX

on the 22d of June, corresponds precisely with Mr. Temminck’s male of one
or two years old.

29. CoLYMBUs Septentrionalis. Red-throated Diver.

GreeiiL Birds, no. 16, Temm. 916.

Breeds in the neighbourhood of fresh water-ponds on the shores of Baffin’s
Bay and Davis’ Strait. The young birds, killed in September, were in
the plumage in which they have been called C. Stellatus. But when nest-
lings, the feathers of the back, scapulars, and wing coverts were margined
with white.

30. Uria Brunnichii. Brunnich's Guillemot.

Greenl. Birds, no. 14. Temm. 924.

In the account of this species in the Memoir of the Greenland Birds, an
inference was drawn that it undergoes the same changes of plumage from
season as the U. Troile. This inference has been subsequently confirmed ;
the specimens which were killed early in June having the throat and neck
white, unmixed with black. Towards the end of June the change was in pro-
gress ; and, by the second week in July, as many were found in perfect
summer plumage, with black throats and necks, as were still in change.

In Temminck’s second edition he has omitted to notice the yellow margin
of the upper mandible of the bill, a peculiarity which serves well to distin-
guish this species from the U. Troile. In the living bird, and in the height
of the summer season, the colour is a deep yellow ; though in preserved
specimens it appears much fainter, and approaching to horn. Both the Uria
Troile and Briinnichii are found on the shores of the northern seas of Europe ;
but the Troile is not known to inhabit those of North America.

31, Uria Grylle. Black Guillemot.

Greenl. Birds, no. 15. Temm. 925.

These birds, which are so numerous in Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay,
were rarely seen in the Polar Sea.

ccx

APPENDIX.

32. Uria Alle. Little Auk.

Temm. 928. — Alca Alle. Greenl. Birds, no. 13.

The reasoning on which Temminck has been induced to alter the generic
name of this species is satisfactory ; the bird does not, indeed, wholly accord
with the characters either of the Alca or Uria, being intermediate between
them ; but it appears preferable that it should be ranged under the latter.
This species, as well as the preceding, is not common in the Polar Sea ; its
great breeding station is in the northern part of Baffin’s Bay.

These thirty-two species comprise tlie whole of the birds which were seen
within the Arctic circle under circumstances which admitted of their being
identified ; and are exclusive of a species of Numenius, three individuals of
which flew past one of the ships’ boats in Prince Regent’s Inlet; and^a species
of Hirundo, (possibly Riparia,) which the Serjeant of Artillery, who had a
good knowledge of birds, stated that he saw on two occasions in the excursion
across Melville Island, in June, 1820.

In the Memoir on the Greenland Birds, fifty-four species were enumerated, as
comprehending the whole of those which have been described by authors to
inhabit Greenland and its coasts ; the present voyage has added one species
to this list, the Falco Tinnunculus, an individual of which flew off to the ship,
when passing Cape Farewell on the passage home, and was killed.

The Procellaria Puffinus, which had escaped notice on the first voyage, Avas
also seen in great abundance off Cape Farewell ; it is the bird which is called
by the Whalers the Cape Hen : these two species are not included in the
present account, which is limited to birds seen within the Arctic circle.

CCXl

FISH.

Salmo ?

Two individuals of a species of salmon were brought from a lake, supposed
to be about 20 miles distant from the sea, by the party who lost their way,
and were absent four days on an excursion in Melville Island in September,
1819; they described the lake as abounding in similar fish, of the same
size as the specimens, which were three inches in length ; the situation of
the lake, and its direction from the ships were unfortunately so uncertain
as to defeat all subsequent research. The specimens, having been several
hours in the pocket of one of the party, who were unprovided with conveniences
for their better conveyance, were not in a state to justify the assignment of a spe-
cific name or character. The colour appeared to have been a silvery white, pure
beneath and marbled above the lateral line by very minute dark spots arranged
in clusters, very thick around the eyes, and on the points of the upper and lower
jaw ; the nose rounded and blunt, the upper jaw rather exceeding the lower ;
gill covers in two pieces, membrane eight rayed ; the ventral fin opposite to
the middle of the first dorsal ; the tail tolerably forked. P. 13. v. 9. A. 10.
D. 11. C. more than 30.

The species seems to be nearly allied to the char (S, Alpinus) ; but the nose
is more obtuse, and the tail more forked.

Merl ANGUS Carbonarius. Coal Fish.

Taken by the trawl on the west coast of Davis’ Strait ; specimens from four
to five inches long.

Merlangus Polaris.

Caught in a net whilst swimming on the surface amongst ice in Baffin’s Bay;

CCXll

APPENDIX.

in length between five and six inches : it is the same fish, of which an individual
was brought home by the former expedition, and was named by Dr, Leach.
This species is very nearly allied to the Gadus Virens of authors, from which,
however, it may be distinguished by the third dorsal fin being larger than the
two anterior, whereas in the Virens the middle one is the largest: the lower
jaw also rather exceeds the upper; the tail is slightly forked, — D. 14, 16, 19.
P.18. V. 6. A. 17,22. C. 42.

Merlangus ?

Three individuals, fifteen inches in length, of a species of Merlangus, were
found in the ice which covered the harbour in which the ships wintered ;
they were frozen in the ice near its surface, and it was supposed must have
been dead on the water when the frost set in ; they were so much decayed
that it was not possible to identify the species. The lower Jaw was ob-
served to exceed the upper a very little; both jaws were armed with teeth,
the hinder ones of the lower jaw being tricuspidate ; it could not be de-
termined whether the species is cirrated. — P. 18. V. 6. D. 13, 19, 20.

A. 20. 20. C. 40.

Liparis Communis.

Several individuals were taken in the trawl on the west coast of Davis’
Strait, in latitude 70 degrees-. They differed in no respect from the unctuous
Sucker of our coasts.

Blennius Polaris.

B. iraberbis, pinnis anali, caudali, dorsalique, unitis.

The individual here described was found on the shore of North Georgia,
where it had been left by the ebb tide,* in September 1819. It bears a very
near resemblance to the description and figure of the B. Viviparus, in Mullers

ZOOLOGY.

CCXlll

ZooL Dan. v. 2, p. 22, pi. 57, but differs in the following paiticulars : the dorsal
fin is united to the anal and caudal ; the pectoral fin is not orbicular, as its length
exceeds twice its breadth ; the number of rays 15. The teeth, though small, are
sufficiently conspicuous to the naked eye ; the colour a yellowish ground,
lighter under the belly, having eleven large saddle-shaped brown markings
across the back ; the middle of these markings being much lighter than their
edges, the whole back and sides have a marbled appearance ; the yellowish
ground, when viewed in a microscope, is thickly sprinkled with minute black
spots. No scales were detected by the microscope, but they may possibly have
been removed with the sand which had adhered to the mucous coating of the
skin, and which was washed off. Length seven inches. The upper jaw pro-
jects rather more than the plate of the B. Viviparus in the Zool. Dan. Ventral
fins of two spines enclosed in a lax skin. This species is distinguished from
the B. Lumpenus, by the union of the dorsal and caudal fins, and by the upper
jaw being considerably longer than the lower; and from the B. Ocellatus,
Mem. de Peters, t. 3, pi. 8, f. 2, by the ventral fins which are wanting in the
Ocellatus, as well as by the absence of the spots on the dorsal fin of the
latter.

CoTTUS Quadricornis.

Two individuals of this species, from five to six inches long, were the only
produce of the Seine at Melville Island. They agreed in all respects with the

description and plate of the C, Quadricornis in ihe Ichthyology of Block, vol. 3,
page 146, plate 108.

CoTTUS Polaris.

C. imberbis, capite spinis duabus, operculis spinis quatuor, armatis.

A species of Cottus, similar in its habits to the C. Gobio, was very
abundant on the shores of North Georgia, inhabiting the pools of water left
by the ebbing of the tide, and the jjiorfths of the small rivulets by which the
snow on melting found its way to^e sea ; the largest individual did not equal

2 d 2

CCXIV

APPENDIX.

two inches in length ; the head is more compressed, and not so much flattened
as in the preceding well-known species, and is armed with two strong spines
directed backwards, placed before and between the eyes ; the gill covers are
also each armed with four strong spines ; the pectoral fins are larger in propor-
tion than those of the Gobio, and the upper jaw rather exceeds the lower ; the
lateral lines are furnished with a series of small tubercles directed backwards ;
colour light, with clusters of minute dusky spots. D. 6, 13. P. 15. V. 5.
A. 14. C. 14.

SPECIMENS of the very few insects which were seen by the Expeditiun
whilst within the Arctic Circle, having been sent to the Rev. William
Kirby, of Barham, Suffolk, the following account and description of them
have been received from that gentleman :

“ Otho Fabricius, in his Fauna Groenlandica (if we exclude the Crustacea,)
has described only 79 species of insects and Arachnidce, and of insects proper
only 63, which he collected during a residence of six years in West Green-
land ; and Professor Hooker speaks of those of Iceland as being very few in
number ( ** ) ; it was therefore to be expected that in a station more than ten
degrees to the northward of the theatre of their researches, the numbers of
the insect world would be very greatly reduced ; and it will not excite much
surprise, that only six species should have been collected in that high lati-
tude, from the beginning of September to the beginning of August, the
period during which the Expedition remained in Winter Harbour. It is pro-
bable, however, that some may have escaped observation, and others might
possibly make both their annual appearance and retreat during the month of
August. The birds also that frequent the island have, doubtless, their

(a) Recollections of Iceland, 1st edit. 272.

ZOOLOGY.

CCXV

parasites, and the rein-deer would be annoyed, it is not unlikely, by its pecu-
liar winged pest, (Estrus Tarandi.

“ In Greenland, every order of insects has its representatives, except Ortho-
ptera and Hemiptera ; but, in Melville island, besides these, no Coleopterous or
Neuropierous species was observed, and even the mosquito ( Culex Linn.), the
torment of the Laplander and Greenlander, as well as of the native of tropical
regions, appears not to have extended there its annoying reign.

Order LEPIDOPTERA.

Genus Bombyx. Fab.

“ Sabini. B. cinereous, wings incumbent, antennas of the male setaceous,
bipectinate at the base, with short rays.

Expansion of the wings one inch.

“ Descr. Male. The whole body of this insect is of a uniform cinereous or
fusco-cinereous colour, except that the under side of the wings is rather paler
than the upper. Tongue rather long, like that of a Noctua or Phalcena. Feelers
recurved,very hairy, consisting of two joints? Antennae setaceous bipectinate for
about half their length, with a single pair of short rays emerging from each of
the branching joints, the other joints are hairy underneath. Wings incumbent,
rather longer than wide, fringed at the end. Tibiae armed in the middle with
a long spur. Abdomen thickish, tufted at the end. Anal forceps, consisting
of two horny concavo-convex reddish pieces, dilated at the top, and rounded.

“ According to the modern system, this species might probably be regarded
as belonging to a new genus, but the specimens are too much injured to ena-
ble me to get a clear idea of the Pgilpi^if admitted as such, it might be named
Psychophora. From the length of the tongue it seems to come between the
other Bombycidce and Noctua, though in habit and stature it approximates to
Phalcena Fab. It was found in a swampy part of Melville Island.

“ Two or three specimens of a caterpillar were obtained in Melville Island,
one of which was brought to England ; — “ They were found wandering

CCXVl

APPENDIX.

in the neighbourhood of Salix arctica and Saxifraga oppositifolia ; it does
not appear to belong to the moth just described, being, apparently,
too large. It is of that tribe of caterpillars which Reaumur calls Chenilles
a brasses, the perfect insects of which constitute the genus Laria of Schranck,
for instance, Bombyx fascelma Fab., &c.. It has six true legs, and ten
spurious or membranaceous ones, (Propedes Kirby and Spence.) The body
is thickly covered with very long hairs of a dirty tawny colour ; in the middle
of the back are three small pale orange brushes, just before which is along
black one, or rather three confluent black ones, and another of the same colour
at the tail, all forming pencils of longer converging hairs. It appears not to
have arrived at its full size.

Order HYMENOPTERA.

Genus Bombus. Latr. Fab. ( Br emus J urine, Apis. * * e. 2. Kirby.)

“ Arcticus. B. black, with the base and apex of the thorax and the anterior
half of the abdomen pale yellow.

Length of the body, ^ ^ Lines.

Synonym. Apis alpina, O. Fabr. Fn. Grosnla7id. 155.

‘‘ Descr. Female. Body covered with long black hairs, but those that clothe
the base and apex of the thorax, and the anterior half of the upper side of the
abdomen, are of a pale yellow. Some black hairs are visible at the base of the
last yellow segment of this part of the body. The antennae are as long as the
head. The wings are a little tinged with brown, and their nervures are black.
The tarsi are covered with short reddish hairs.

“ Male much smaller than the female. The hairs of the whole trunk, or
intermediate segment of the body, are pale yellow intermixed with some black
ones. The legs, also, particularly the anterior pair, are clothed with long
yellowish hairs. The antennae, which have a joint more than those of the
female, and are considerably longer than the head, and the smaller mandibulae

ZOOLOGY.

CCXVll

prove this specimen to be a male, but the posterior tibiae are without hairs
upon their surface, and are fringed with long ones, forming what Reaumur
calls the Corbeille, ( Corbicula Kirby,) usually peculiar to the females, in which
they carry the masses of pollen-paste, which is the reverse of what is observed
in other male humble bees.

“ The insect before us differs so slightly from the description which
O. Fabricius has given of that which he mistook for the Apis alpina of Linn6, that
there can be little or no doubt of their identity. He confesses that his speci-
mens (and this bee appears to have abounded in West Greenland, as it was
also observed to do in Melville Island, and wherever the expedition landed
within the arctic circle ) did not in all things agree with the characters assigned
to that species. But he states, that as Linne had seen only a single specimen,
he did not think himself at liberty to make a new species on account of an insig-
nificant difference. Although, however, Linne had seen this bee only once, it
has since been more frequently taken, and having received specimens of it
from Sweden, through the kindness of Major Gyllenhal, which agree with the
Linnean description in every point but size, ( a circumstance easily explained
by supposing the original specimen a queen, and those sent to me neuters,)
can venture to assert that the two insects are perfectly distinct. Bornbus alpi~
nus is entirely black, with the upper side of the abdomen, all but the base,
covered with orange-coloured or ferruginous hairs. The antennae, also of the
female or neuter ( an important distinction in a genus, the species of which are
usually only distinguished by the colour of their hirsuties ) are proportionally
shorter, and the short hairs that cover the tarsi are black. ,

“ Scarcely any genus of the insect creation has so large a range as this of
Bornbus. It is found in the old world and in the new, and from the limits of
phaenogamous vegetation to the equator, but its metropolis appears to be within
the temperate zone. The range of the species in question seems limited by
the arctic circle, and to go from Greenland only westward, for it does not ap-
pear to have been seen in Lapland or Iceland ( ’'), or other eastern parts of that
circle.

(®) Hooker’s Recollections of Iceland. 1st Edit. 34.

CCXVlll

APPENDIX.

Order DIPTERA.

Genus Ctenophora, Meigen.

“ Parrii. Ct. black, wings brownish, with a white marginal spot towards the
apex, surmounted by a black one, tip of the margin of the abdominal
segment pale.

Length of the body, 5| Lines.

“ Descr. Female. Body blackish, with a tinge of slate colour, with the ab-
dominal segments tipped with pale. Antennae shorter than the thorax, subse-
taceous, serrated. Wings brownish towards their apex, at the exterior
margin is a white spot crowned by a black one. Legs long and slender.

“ The male of this species has probably bipectinate antennae. Tipula pectini-
cornis, Linn, is congenerous with it. This insect abounded about pools of
fresh water.

Genus Chironomus. Meigen.

“ Polaris. Ch. black, abdomen hairy, wings lacteous.

Length of the body 4 Lines.

“ Descr. Male. Body of a deep black, somewhat hairy. Antennae plumose.
Wings a little shorter than the body, of a milky hue, but reflecting the pris-
matic colours, with the marginal nervures black, abdomen slender and more
hairy than the rest of the body. This species is nearly related to the Tipula
stercoraria of De Geer, but is more than twice its size.

“ The two insects last described seem to replace the hosts of gnats, (Culex)
that are so troublesome, even in high latitudes, to navigators. The species of
the Chironomus genus, in particular, in this country, often appear dancing in the
sun-beams in the depth of winter, when the Culex is torpid ; it was therefore
to be expected that their range would approach nearer to the poles than that
of Culex. The species here described is larger than most of the southern ones
that I have seen.

ZOOLOGY.

CCXIX

“ Besides the above insects, a very minute spider was seen in abundance,
running over the plants, and on the ground, and leaping when alarmed. I
have seen only a single specimen, which was so much injured that I cannot
be positive as to the genus, but from its jumping, it most probably is a spe-
cies of Salticus, Lath. (Attus Walck). I, at first, took it for a variety of Aranea
rujipes, (O. Fabr. 206) ; but as the characters glaberrima, pedibus testaceis, do not
agree with it, it may be considered as a new species.

Melmllensis. S. black ; legs piceous, hairy ; abdomen hairy.

Length of the body about 1| lines.

This was the only species which Captain Sabine observed on the island.”

-C'

INVERTEBRATE ANIMALS.

The Genera, into which the several species of invertebrate animals have
been distributed, are those of the system of the Chevalier de Lamarck,
Histoire Naturelle des Animausc sans Verthbres.

The object which has been chiefly attempted in the present account, has
been to identify those species which have been previously described, and
to compare the individuals with the descriptions of original observers, refer-
ring to the works in which they are noticed, and marking any differences
which may have appeared in the comparison ; and to furnish descriptions
of the previously unknown species, sufficiently extended to enable the several
systematic writers to arrange them in Genera according to their respective
views and systems.

ccxx

APPENDIX.

Beroe Ovum.

Faun. Green. No. 355.

Baffin’s Bay ; not unfrequent, but very delicate in texture, and difficult to
procure for examination without injury. This species is easily distinguishable
from others, as well by its very long cirri, as by the inequality of its ribs and
their included sides ; the body being laterally compressed, and the ribs on
the compressed sides (two in each) smaller than the others, and ending before
they reach the terminal apertures ; whereas the four ribs between which the
uncompressed sides are included, have no termination, but run into each
other, completing the circumference ; the openings into the central internal
cavity are between the latter.

In a note in the Rcgne Animal, 4, 59, it is supposed that the Beroe Ovum of
O. Fabricius, and the Medusa Pileus of Gmelin, are the same species ; but the
abovementioned particulars (which are also noticed by Fabricius,) distinguish
them apart, and place the B. Ovum in a different subgenus of the Rkgne
Animal, viz., the Callianire of P^ron.

Beroe Cucumis.

Faun. Green. No. 853.

Common in Baffin’s Bay, and on the coast of New Georgia; agreeing in
all respects with the description in the Faun. Green., except that Fabri-
cius has omitted to mention the lateral openings of the ovaries. This
species is well distinguished from others by the absence of cirri, by its red
colour, caused by innumerable minute red spots on the surface of the internal
cavity seen through its transparent body ; and by the ribs, as well as the sides
between them, being similar and equal, the former running into and ending
in the terminal apertures.

ZOOLOGY.

ccxxi

Beroe Pileus.

Faun, Green. No. 354.

Beroe Globuleux. Encyd. Meth. PI. xc. f. 3, 4.

In Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay ; frequently rising to the surface amongst
ice, having eight ciliate ribs most beautifully resplendent with green and red.

DiANiEA GlACIALIS.

Plate 1, fig. 1.

D. campanulata, pistillo ore quadrangulare, costis quatuor cirri-productis.

In Baffin’s Bay and the adjacent seas, but rare ; body hyaline, cam-
panulate, the margin not ciliate ; length usually under half an inch, and
the diameter under a quarter of an inch; peduncle tubular, flesh-coloured,
capable of extension to more than twice the length of the body, enlarged
and quadrangular near the mouth which distends to receive its prey ; from
the base of the peduncle proceed four delicate blood-red costae, terminating
at the margin in soft granular cirri, which can be extended at pleasure to
more than an inch in length, or contracted to less than a quarter.

This species is allied to the Dianaea digitala (Medusa Digitale, Faun. Grosn.
No. 361,) and still nearer to the D. Papillata, (Medusa Papillata, Zool. Dan. 4.
24., tab. 140.,) but the margin is without the ciliae of the former, or the globes
of the latter. It falls under the Genus Geryonia of Peron, Ann. du Museum.

Cyanea Arctica.

Lam. V. 2. p. 519. Medusa capillata, Faun. Green. No. 358.

Is frequent in Barrow’s Strait and in the Polar Sea, varying considerably
in size, being usually from seven to nine inches in diameter ; a small space
of open water being made by the removal of the ice in Winter Harbour in the
month of May, several individuals rose immediately to the surface, which were

2 e 2

CCXXll

APPENDIX.

observed to differ from each other in the number of compartments into which the
disc is divided, without relation to the size of the animal, the compartments
being never less than seven, or more than eleven, and similar ; all are composed
of two rays formed by longitudinal fibres with a deep middle furrow. The pel-
lucid, membranaceous process to which the central appendages and tentaculEe
are attached, was connected with the under surface of the disc in three nearly
equidistant places in the greater number of individuals, leaving three interme-
diate openings into the central cavity of the body ; but in a few it was cruci-
form and connected in four places, making four entrances instead of three ; in
all other respects the several specimens agreed with each other.

Ophiura Texturata.

Lam. V. 2, p. 542. no. 1. — Stella lacertosa, Link tab. ii. f. 4.

Taken very abundantly in the trawl in Davis’ Strait.

Ophiura Fragilis.

Lara. V. 2, p. 546. no. 12. — Asterias fragilis, Zool. Dan. v. 3, p. 28. tab. 98.

Taken in the trawl with the preceding species.

Asterias Papposa.

Faun. Green, no. 364.

Several individuals with twelve rays, and one with eleven, were taken in
the trawl on the west coast of Davis Strait, corresponding, in all respects,
with the minute description referred to.

This species is justly remarked by Fabricius to appear radiate when viewed
from above, and stellate, when turned on its back.

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXlll

Asterias Rubens.

Faun. Green, no. 362.

A single specimen was taken at the same time as the preceding species.

Asterias Violacea.

Zool. Dan. tab. 46.

Two specimens were taken in the trawl in from twelve to eighteen fathoms’
water on the western coast of Davis’ Strait, in lat. 70° ; they were both six-
rayed, a variety which does not appear to have fallen under the notice of
Muller, who mentions from one to five rays only.

The specific name of Violacea seems particularly inappropriate to a species
which varies so much in colour as the present ; individuals being found occa-
sionally red, blue, grey, and even black ; those under description were rather
red than violet.

Asterias Polaris.

A. pentagona, paging, superiore tesselato-granulata, margine articulate spinoso.

Plate 1, fig. 2, 3.

A single specimen was taken by a drag-net on the coast of Melville Island ;
body plane, pentagonal, the sides lunate ; margin obtuse, articulated, and fur-
nished with a double row of small spines; the articulations in number 150 are
continued on the inferior surface to the grooves of the feet, the grooves
being broad, with fleshy pectinate feet; mouth central, simple ; back tes-
selated with hexagonal superficial granulations, having in the centre a fleshy
papilla, capable of being protruded more than three-tenths of an inch, but
when retracted, appearing only as a central spot ; when viewed by a micro-
scope, the papilla is seen to be furnished with minute and delicate vesicles.

ccxxiv

APPENDIX.

Nais Ciliata.

N. proboscide cylindrlco aculeis minutis reflexis hispido, margine antico ciliato.

Nereis ciliata, Mull. Zool. Dan., v. 3, p. 14, tab. 89, f. 1 — 4.

Several individuals, corresponding to the description and plate of Muller’s
Nereis Ciliata, were taken in a drag-net off one of the North Georgian islands ;
they were observed to have the power of exserting or of retracting the setae
of the tail at pleasure, which may explain the circumstance mentioned by
Miiller, of a specimen having been received from the Feroe Islands, in which
the setae appeared to be deficient,

Ascidia Globifera.

A. pedunculo longo, scabro; corpore subreniformi ; aperturis distantibus quadrifidis.

Lam. V. 3, p. 127. — Ascidia Clavata, Faun. Green. No. 323.

Several individuals were taken by the trawl on the west coast of Davis’ Strait,
in lat. 70°. This species is described in the Fauna Green, under the specific
name of Clavata, which name has been applied, with more propriety, to the
Ascidia figured by Pallas, Spicil. Zool.,\0, p. 25, t. l.,f. 16, which is distinguished
by the two apertures being approximate, and terminal instead of lateral ; the
shape of the body of the present species is well characterized by Fabricius as
“ ovatum, subreniforme,” (preferable to the corpore subgloboso of Lamarck ;)
and the apertures as “ lateribus rugosis eminentibus, altera versus apicem
sursiim, altera versus basin deorsum tendente.” The mouth of both aper-
tures is in the figure of a cross, in which respect it differs from the A. Pedun-
culata, Brugiere Diet. No. 12, Encycl. Meth. pi. 6, f. 14, quoted by Lamarck
as a synonym of the present species, but in which only the superior aperture
is so distinguished, and the inferior is expressly described as simple: the
peduncle is rough and hmry.

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXV

Nymphum Grossipes.

Pycnogonum Grossipes Faun. Groen. No. 310. Zool. Dan. v. 3. p. 67. t. 119 ?

Abundant at ebb tide on the shores of the North Georgian Islands, agree-
ing in all respects with the minute description of O. Fabricius, 1. c., except
in the palpi, (described as antennae), which in these specimens were of five
instead of four articulations, the first being very short and tubular ; Fabricius
has also omitted to notice that the tarsi are jointed; the first joint is shorter
than the second.

The account annexed to the figure of the P. Grossipes in the Zool. Dan.,
refers' to this description of Fabricius as being a most perfect one ;
but on comparing the figure with the description, and both with the
specimens under notice, the following differences are observable ; the middle
and longest joint of the haunch appears short in the figure ; the first joint of
the tarsus is longer than the second ; the fingers of the mandibles are not of
equal length, and the palpi are proportionably shorter in comparison with the
rostrum. It may be inferred from these differences that the P. Grossipes
figured in the Zool. Dan., is neither the P. Grossipes of Fabricius, nor the pre-
sent species.

There are three essential points in which the species under description differs
from the N. Gracile and N. Femoratum of Dr. Leach, Zool. Misc. vol. i. 1. 19; in
the fingers of the mandibles, which curve in a contrary direction to each other,
and meet only at the point instead of along their whole inner edge ; in the
palpi being of five instead of six joints ; and in the first joint of the tarsi being
shorter than the second. These points are not indeed expressly mentioned
in the specific description of the N. gracile and femoratum, but they are
inferred, as forming a part of the prefixed character of Dr. Leach’s Ge?ius
Nymphum ; the thighs of the present species being compressed, (more in
some individuals than in others), give it in other respects a near resemblance
to the Femoratum.

CCXXVl

APPENDIX.

Nymphum Hirsutus.

N. pedibus longissimis hirsutis, mandibularum digitis inequalibus per totam longitudinem conni-
ventibus.

Nymphum Hirtum, Fabr. Syst. Ent. v. 4. p, 417?

A second species of Nymphum was found associated with the preceding,
which it resembles in general conformation and size, but differs in the follow-
ing particulars: the legs, mandibles, and palpi, are thickly set with hair;
the curved fingers of the mandibles are not of equal length, and meet along
their whole inner edge ; the thighs are cylindrical, and not compressed in
any individual; the first joint of the tarsus is extremely short; and the
rostrum does not narrow towards its termination, as does that of the N.
Grossipes.

Phoxichilus Proboscideus.

Pb. proboscide corpore duplo longiore, mandibulis nullis, palpis inungulatis.

One perfect, and several imperfect, individuals of an undescribed species of
the class Pycnogonides, were found at ebb tide on the shores of the North
Georgian Islands. In the arrangement of Lamarck, this species is compre-
hended in the genus Phoxichilus, and establishes a sub-division of the genus
which had been anticipated, characterized by “ palpi without mandibles.”

Body ovate, of four segments with lateral tubercles for the articulation of
the legs, convex on the back, one segment only, the anterior, being marked
by a transverse line: proboscis more than twice the length of the body,
being one inch eight-tenths, and the body three-quarters of an inch long. This
huge proboscis is nearly cylindrical, the extremity obtuse, with a triangular
perforation, which influences in some measure the external shape. The dia-
meter of the proboscis at the insertion and for a quarter of its length two-
tenths of an inch, widening suddenly to thirty-five hundreths, and gradually to
above four-tenths at the end. The anterior segment furnishes the palpi, and in
the female the spurious legs ; and has on the back a conical tubercle, on which
two eyes only were distinguishable in the most perfect specimen, when it was

ZOOLOGY.

ccxxvii

first brought on board the Hecla, at which time it had been dead for some days :
the number of eyes are, however, most probably four, as is the case in its con-
geners. The palpi are longer than the proboscis, tubular, rather compressed
and tapering, without claw or nail, of ten articulations, whereof the two first
are nodular, the 3d half the length of the proboscis, 4th very short, 5th
bending downwards, half the length of the 3d, and the remainder, short, bending
upwards, the 7th being rather the longest. The spurious feet are also tubular,
ten articulate exclusive of a tubercle, the three first short nodular, 4th and
6th longer than the body, 5th short, the others still shorter, bristled beneath,
and terminated by a sharp nail. Legs eight, similar, cylindrical, nearly
equal in length which is six inches; haunches three-jointed, equal, short,
nodular; thighs rather shorter than the proboscis ; tibiae of two joints, equal,
each two-thirds the length of the thigh. Tarsi also of two joints, the first
being the longest, terminated by a strong and simple nail ; posterior extre-
mity of the body straight, tubular, with an opening at the end.

Idotea Entomon.

Entomon Pyramidale, Klein. Dub. 38. Fig. 1 & 2. — Oniscus Entomon, Pall, Spied Zool. fasc. ix.
p. 64. Tab. 5. f. 1—6.

A fine specimen above three inches in length was found at ebb tide on the
beach of Melville Island, being the same animal which is represented by
Klein, under the name of Entomon Pyramidale, and referred to by Linnaeus in
the 10th edition of the S^st. Nat., as his Oniscus Entomon ; as such it was again
figured and described by Pallas, with whose minute description the present
individual corresponded in all respects; the O. Entomon of British writers, espe-
cially of Pennant, Brit. '' Zool. v. iv. p. 38. pi. 19. f. 5. is a distinct species,
never attaining the size of the present, and differing in the conformation of the
anterior legs, and of the tail ; the Idotea Entomon of Dr. Leach, Lin. Tr. vol. xi.
p. 364. (caud4 apice tridentata) is the Oniscus Entomon of Pennant, but not of
Linnaeus, both of which are referred to as synonyms by Dr. LeaCh ; the specific
character of the Entomon of Linnaeus (cauda marking the distinction.

ccxxvin

APPENDIX.

Idotea Baffini.

I. linearis, antennis externis corpore longioribus, dorso spinoso, caudae segmento ultimo elongate,
apice subulate.

Plate 1, fig. 4 — 6.

Brought up by the trawl in considerable numbers from twenty fathoms
depth, coarse sandy bottom, on the west coast of Baffin’s Bay, in latitude 71°.
Exterior antennae usually about one-sixth longer than the body, of four
tubular, cylindrical articulations, exclusive of a peduncle ; the second and third
equal, and longer than the terminal, which is annulate. Inner antennae not
larger than the peduncles of the exterior pair, of three filiform articulations
on a compressed fleshy peduncle, (fig. 6 magnified.) Eyes reniform ; body
linear, subcylindrical, of six segments exclusive of the head and tail, which
last consists of two segments besides the terminal ; the third segment of the
body is equal in size to the two on either side. Legs fourteen, five
jointed ; first pair short, soft, compressed, ciliate beneath ; second, third, and
fourth pairs similar, laterally compressed, with long ciliae on the anterior
edge, directed forward and increasing successively in size ; the second joint
of these legs is much shorter than the others ; fifth, sixth, and seventh pairs
similar, decreasing in size, stout, tubular, and cylindrical, terminated by a
strong curved nail. Abdomen wdth a four-valved receptacle. Branchiae five
pair, fleshy and ciliae, the two first with long peduncles ; covered by a
strong and single plate, acuminate at the termination, and shut in by two
longitudinal plates beneath ; these are channelled down the middle, attached
by the exterior side, and unfold from their junction in the middle. The back
is armed with a double row of strong spines, two on each segment, which
are strongest towards the tail ; the back, tail, antennae and legs hirsute ; the
females were observed to have their young attached to the exterior antennae.

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXIX

Gammarus Nugax.

Cancer Nugax, Phipps’ Voyage, t. 12., f. 3.

Abundant on the shores of the Polar Sea at ebb tide.

Gammarus Ampulla.

Cancer Ampulla, Phipps, 1. 12., f. 2.

Several specimens were taken by the trawl in the Polar Sea and in Davis
Strait.

Gammarus Boreus.

G. caudas dorso spinoso, oculis lunatis, pedibus quatuor anticis chelatis, pari septimo praecedentibus
longiore.

Sqiiilla Pulex. Degeer Ins., v. 7, p. 525., t. 33., f. 1. and 2.

Abundant in pools of water left by the ebb tide on the shores of the Polar
Sea. This species so much resembles in general appearance others which
are found in similar situations, that a more detailed description than usual
is required, for the purpose of discrimination. Individuals vary in size from
half an inch to an inch and half. Body convex, laterally compressed, of
seven smooth imbricate segments, prolonged in lateral lobes which increase
successively in size to the fourth, the fifth, sixth and seventh being longer
and narrower, detached from the segments, and attached to the thighs ; tail
of six segments, the three first produced in lobes larger than those of the
body, and acuminating to a sharp point, directed backwards ; the fourth,
fifth, and sixth segments are less than the preceding, slightly tricarinate on the
back, and spinous ; the upper antennae rather the longest, being equal in length
to the head and four first segments ; both pairs are composed of a three-jointed
peduncle, terminated by a setaceous me.mber, flexible by annular articula-
tions ; the third joint of the peduncle of the upper pair, and the first of
the lower, short, the latter with a small spine at the base ; the last joint

of the upper antennae is much longer than that of the lower, and has a small

2 f 2

ccxxx

APPENDIX.

seta at the base. Head rounded, obtuse, without a rostrum ; eyes black,
lunate, at the base of the upper antennae ; legs fourteen ; the two first pair
with a strong compressed hand, monodactyle ; the hand of the second pair
broadest ; third and fourth pairs, alike and similar in size, directed forward,
slim, and compressed, five -articulate (the second joint being very short),
and ending in a curved nail ; similar to these are the fifth, sixth, and seventh
pairs, but directed backwards, the nails curving forward ; these three last
pairs are unequal in size, increasing successively from the fifth to the
seventh, the sixth pair being considerably the smallest. The less are setose,
especially at the joints. Swimmers three pair, being each a fleshy pe-
duncle, with two plume-shaped branchial terminations ; the fourth and
fifth caudal segments are furnished with a pair of lateral bifurcate style
processes, the outer style of the second pair being shorter than the inner ;
the sixth caudal segment terminates in a pair of small lanceolate plates,
bristled at the apex, beneath which are inserted two peduncles, each bifur-
cating into oblong, stiff, and narrow plates, the outer of which are larger
than the inner ; colour usually pale, with a small red spot on each of the
lateral lobes of the three first caudal segments. This description applies
strictly to the many specimens which have passed under examination.

The Squilla Pulex figured by Degeer, /. c., differing in no respect from the
above description, is considered to have been an individual of the same
species, and it is therefore believed to be common to the northern
shores of Europe and America ; the Squilla Pulex has been considered a
synonym of the Gammarus Pulex of modern authors, but erroneously,
as may be seen by comparing the figure in Degeer with that of the Gam-
marellus Pulex, Herbst., vol. ii., 130, tab. 36, fig. 4 and 5, which is the Gammarus
Pulex of J. C. Fabricius, Ent. S^st., and of Latreille, Enc^cl. Meth. pi. 328,
fig. 11-15; the species are very distinct, differing in the lateral lobes,
in the mucronate production of the caudal segments, in the absence of the
carinae and spines on the three posterior segments of the latter, and in the
shape of the eyes : the Gammarus Pulex of Montagu, Linn. Tr. ix, t. 4, f. 2,

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXXl

is a third species, differing not merely in appearance, but in its habits, being
found only in fresh water. The Oniscus Pulex of Otho Fabricius, Faun.
Green., No, 231, differs from the present species in the relative proportions
of the three posterior pair of legs, the last pair being described by Fabricius
as less than the two preceding, whereas in the Boreus the seventh are longer
than the fifth and sixth pairs. The Oniscus Cancellus of Pallas, Spicil.
Zool. ix, p. 53, tab. 3, f. 18, is distinguished by the lateral scales on the seg-
ments of the body, but in other respects is not very dissimilar to the animal
under description : it may not be amiss to notice incidentally that an error
has crept into the specific character of the Cancellus in the writings of modern
authors, commencing it is believed with J. C. Fabricius, of describing it
with sixteen legs, instead of fourteen, which is the usual number in the genus ;
in the original account of the Cancellus, Spicil. Zool. 1. c. the number of
legs is fourteen, both in the description and figure.

\

Gammarus Loricatus.

G. Rostro corniformi deflexo, dorso carinato, segmentis postic^ et acut^ productis.

Plate 1, fig, 7.

This species was found associated with the preceding, and of the same
size, but less abundant ; body laterally compressed, especially the posterior
segments ; shell smooth, and much harder than in its congeners, resembling
a coat of mail, whence the specific name ; back carinate, the segments in-
creasing in length from the first to the tenth, from whence they decrease ;
and beginning with the third or fourth, are produced in sharp and strong
points directed backward : lateral lobes oblong, enlarging from the first to
the fourth segment, and decreasing to the seventh ; those of the three first
caudal segments are larger than those of the body, and are acuminate ; head
produced into a strong, arched, carinate, and sharp-pointed rostrum, curving
down between the antennae ; eyes large, black, lateral, prominent and reni-
form ; beneath the eyes is a small lateral lobe ; antennae four-articulate, the

CCXXXll

APPENDIX.

upper pair having a small seta at the base of the fourth articulation ; legs
fourteen, two first pair with a large compressed monodactyle hand, those of the
anterior pair being smaller than the others ; third and fourth pairs of the same
length as the preceding, slender, terminating in a nail ; the three posterior
pair directed backward, similar in formation, but differing in size, the middle
and longest pair being as long as the body, and the seventh pair shorter
than the fifth, all terminating in a nail ; colour in some individuals pale, in
others varied red and white.

• This species differs from the Oniscus Serratus of Fabricius, Faun. Green.
No. 237, in the length and relative proportion of the legs, the three posterior
pairs of the Serratus being described as shorter than the third and fourth pairs,
whereas those of the Loricatus are much longer, the sixth pair are indeed more
than twice as long as either the third or fourth pairs : it also differs in many
essential respects from the Gammarus Carinatus, Fabricius, Ent. KSjjst. 2, 515,
(Atylus Carinatus Leach, Zool. Misc. ii, t. 69), as may be seen on com-
paring it with the figure of the Carinatus in the Zool. Misc. ; (the latter
is stated by Dr. Leach to have been taken from the identical specimens
to which Fabricius attached the name of Carinatus ;) the upper antennae of
the Carinatus are shorter than the lower, which, in the arrangement of La-
marck, is not merely a specific but a generic difference. The present species
is sufficiently distinguished by the rostrum from the GammarellusPulex,Herbst.
230, t. 36, fig. 4 and 5.

Gammarus Sabini.

Leach in Ross’s Voyage, Ed. 8vo., Vol. 2, page 178.

G, segmentis dorsalibus postice falcato prodiictis, capite inter antennas acumine minuto.

Plate 1, fig. 8—11.

On the shores of Baffin’s Bay, but not met with in the Polar sea : the
head of this species which terminates in a point between the antennae, instead

V

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXXlll

of being produced in a rostrum, readily distinguishes it from the pre-
ceding species, and has been added to the specific character assigned by
Dr. Leach, in, whose arrangement it was unnecessary, the formation of the
head making part of the character of the genus.

Talitrus Edvardsii.

T. Rostro corniformi, antennis subaequalibus, corpore ovato depresso, cauda compressa tricarinata
spinosa.

Plate II, fig. I — 4.

Brought up in the trawl on the western coast of Davis’ Strait; head
produced in an acute depressed rostrum, slightly curving downwards.
Body ovate, depressed, of seven imbricate segments, (the posterior being
much larger than the others,) with small lateral lobes ; tail laterally
compressed, the three anterior segments with large lateral lobes ; the
caudal segments, and the sixth and seventh of the body tricarinate and
spinous, each segment being posteriorly produced on each carina into a
strong spine ; those of the tail being also furnished with an intermediate
smaller spine on the middle carina© ; fourth and fifth caudal segments
small, each furnished with a double style process ; the middle plate of the
tail lanceolate, acute, bifid at the extremity, covering two style processes
similar to the preceding ; eyes large, prominent, black, situated at the
base of the superior antennae, having a small spine on the head between
them ; legs fourteen, the four anterior with a compressed monodactyle
hand ; the four next similar and equal, four-articulate, terminated by
a curved nail and directed forward ; the three posterior pair similar, di-
rected backward, the first and second pair being equal, and less than the
third pair ; colour white, with deep red spots.

In conformity with the arrangement which is followed in the present
account, this species has been considered a Talitrus, as the inferior antenna©
are somewhat longer than the superior; this character is, however, by no

CCXXXIV

APPENDIX.

means remarkable either in this species, or in some others, which are dis-
tributed by it into the respective genera of Talitrus and Gammarus ; if a sub-
division be desirable in 'the well-defined and natural genus comprehending
all these animals which so nearly resemble each other in general appearance
and habits, the prolongation of the anterior part of the head into a rostrum,
would seem preferable to a distinction founded on the relative length of the
antennae, which in many of the species are so nearly the same ; or, the
genus Talitrus might be limited to those species in which the superior
antennae are very short, not exceeding the length of the two first articula-
tions of the inferior pair.

This species has been named in compliment to John Edwards, Esq., surgeon
of the Hecla.

Talitrus Cyaneas.

T. capite obtusissimo, antennis subsequalibus, corpore latiore, pedibus quatuor anticis inunguiculatis.

Plate 1, fig. 12 — 18.

Parasitic on the Cyanea Arctica, the individuals varying in length from two
to eight-tenths of an inch : colour pale yellowish red, sprinkled with innu-
merable minute spots of deeper red; in about half the specimens, the
number of which was considerable, the antennas were equal in length to the
five first segments of the body ; in the others they were scarcely one-
fifth as long, but otherwise similar ; there was no other perceptible differ-
ence in the specimens. The two pair of antennae are so very nearly
of the same length, that it has been by no means easy to decide whether
the species should be considered a Gammarus or a Talitrus; those of an
individual, however, in which the greatest disproportion existed, have been
figured (fig. 14, 15, and 16,) for the purpose ofjustifying the ultimate decision ;
the remarkable conformation of the head will doubtless be considered by
many naturalists as a peculiarity requiring the establishment of a new genus.

Head rounded, and very obtuse ; eyes extremely large, lunate, of a brownish

ZOOLOGY.

CCXXXV

red colour ; antennse four-articulate, the second and third members very small,
and the terminal setaceous, flexible by annular articulations ; the last joint of
the superior pair is thick and fleshy at the base ; body of seven segments,
broader and less compressed than is usual in its congeners ; caudal segments
four exclusive of the tail itself, more attenuated than those of the body, but
larger ; legs fourteen, the four anterior equal and similar, five-jointed, being a
long compressed thigh with four much shorter articulations, hirsute, and un-
armed ; the ten posterior legs similar and equal in size, five-jointed, the thigh
being long and much compressed, followed by three short fleshy joints, (the first
of which is the shortest,) and by a long and curved member, terminated by a
nail ; the six posterior legs are directed backward ; the three anterior caudal
segments with each a pair of swimmers ; the fourth caudal segment has on
each side a pair of foliaceous styles borne on a two-jointed cylindrical foot-
stalk ; the tail consists of two foliaceous plates, each terminated by two smaller
ones, strongly pointed and articulated to the larger ; and is also furnished
with a second pair of lateral style processes.

This description differs from that of the Cancer Medusarum, Otho Fabri-
cius. Faun. Green., No. 232, in the number of joints of the legs, and in the
four anterior being unarmed ; the conformation of these legs distinguishes
it also from the Gammarus Medusarum of J. C. Fabricius, of which a part of
the specific character is “ manibus quatuor monodactylis.’’

Crangon Boreas.

Cancer Boreas, Phipps, Voy. App. 190, t. 12, f. 1.

Several individuals were taken in the trawl on the west coast of Davis’
Strait, and in a dredge at Melville Island; in the minute, and otherwise
very exact account which has been given of this species in the Appendix to
Captain Phipps’s voyage, four strong spines were omitted to be noticed,
situated beneath the thorax, one between each pair of legs, directed
forward ; the anterior is the strongest, and they decrease successively in

CCSXXVl

APPENDIX.

size ; each segment of the body is also armed beneath with a spine of less
strength than those which have been just described; the rostrum has a
strong tooth beneath, which does not appear in the figure in Phipps’s
voyage.

Crangon Septemcarinatus.

C. thorace septem-carinato ; carinis serratis ; pedibus secundi paris brevissimis inunguiculatis.

Plate II, fig. II— 13.

Several specimens of this undescribed species were taken in the trawl
on the west coast of Davis’ Strait. Length four inches ; (^colour varied
red and white above, white beneath.} Thorax seven-carinate, the three
lateral carinae on each side serrate, the middle one with strong spines;
rostrum short, curving down between the eyes, grooved in the centre ; the
five upper carinss carried on in very faint rudiments along the back ; the
terminal setae of the superior antennae inserted nearly in the same horizontal
line, the interior one being the longest ; the first joint of the inferior antenna;
scarcely produced beyond the middle of the squama ; a strong spine on the
abdomen directed forward between the chelate legs; the last joint of the
pediform palpi sub-acuminate, rather longer than the preceding ; second
pair of legs slender, very short, bristled and unarmed, (magiiified in fig. IS,)
in which last essential point it differs from the Pontophilus Spinosus of Dr.
Leach, Mai. Pod. Brit., t. 37, to which in other respects this species bears
a near resemblance.

It is proper to notice, that a rigid application of every part of the character
of the genus Crangon of Lamarck would exclude the Septemcarinatus, by reason
of the second pair of legs being unarmed, and would render necessary the
establishment of a new genus, of which it would be the only known species,
and might possibly be the only existing one ; it may, however, be questioned
whether the pursuit of natural history be either forwarded, or rendered more
attractive by the multiplication of genera, which is a consequence of the
extent and precision which have been introduced into the characters of some

ZOOLOGY.

ccxxxvii

of the modern genera ; as the object of the present account is limited to
describing the new species in such manner, that systematic writers may be
at no loss in disposing them according to their respective arrangements,
the present species has been continued with the Crangons, Vulgaris, Bo-
reas, and Spinosus, with which it accords so strikingly in general appear-
ance, as well as in the leading and most essential characteristics ; with the
reservation, however, of a notice, that it forms an exception to the “ pedes
decern unguiculati” of the other Crangons.

Alpheus Aculeatus.

A. thoracis carina dentibus quatuor, margine antico trispinoso, segmentis utrinque aculeatis, palpis
pediformibus apice spinulosis.

Cancer Aculeatus O. Fabr,, Faun. Green., N°. 217.

Astacus Groenlandicus, J. C. Fabr. Ent. Syst., Vol. 2., P. 484?

Plate II, fig. 9, 10.

Several individuals were . obtained at Melville Island, which being com-
pared with the minute description of the Cancer Aculeatus of O. Fabricius,
are believed to be the species described under that name : it is observable of
this, as of other species of this genus, that the rostrum is found to vary so much
in different specimens, in length and shape, as well as in the number of teeth
above and below, as to make it no proper ground of specific distinction.
It is probable that the Astacus Groenlandicus of J. C. Fabricius should also
be referred to this species ; as, excepting the rostrum, the descriptions are
sufficiently conformable, and the “ abdominis segmenta terminanter utrinque
spin^,” of the Groenlandicus is strictly descriptive of the peculiar character-
istic of the Aculeatus. It is possible also that the Astacus Histrio* of the
same author, Ent. S^st., p. 482, may have been a young individual of the
present species, since it appears to differ in colour only.

* In the specific character of the Astacus Histrio, J. C. Fab. Ent. Syst. v. 2, p. 482, the margin
of the thorax is said to be furnished with two teeth, whilst in the description which is added, the
number of teeth are stated to be three; the former is presumed to be the error.

2 g 2

CCXXXVlll

APPENDIX.

The middle lamella of the tail has seven spines on each side in the spe-
cimen which has been figured ; but others had a greater or less proportion :
the exterior antennse are verrucose on the inner side.

Alpheus Polaris.

Thoracis dimidio posteriore lasvi, anteriore carinato serrato ; chelis et unguibus apice nigris.

Plate II. fig. 5 — 8.

Fig. 8 is the rostrum of a second specimen.

Several individuals were brought up in the same drag-net, from fifty fathoms’
depth, on the coast of Melville Island, all of which agreed in the pecu-
liarities included in the specific character, but no two in the number
of the teeth or in the shape of the rostrum, the former varying from three
to six above, and from two to six below ; length usually from one and a
half to three quarters of an inch ; colour pale, with red spots and mark-
ings ; thorax armed on each side on the anterior margin with three
spines, situated above and below the eye and at the junction of the lateral
margin ; these spines vary in strength in diiferent individuals, the first espe-
cially being occasionally very strong; anterior half of the thorax carinate
on the back, and serrate ; posterior half smooth, without carina or teeth ;
the upper seta of the superior antennsB hollowed beneath, ciliate at the sides ;
both pairs spinous at the joints ; pedipalpi, three-articulate, the last joint
above three times the length of the second, much depressed, hirsute, and ter-
minated by from four to six stiff black bristles ; the fingers of the four anterior
legs and the nails of the others black at the points ; the nails are spinulose
within ; the first pair of swimmers smaller than the others, bifid and pointed ;
the hinder part of the third segment of the body is curved towards the tail,
and the lateral lobes of the two next segments are produced in sharp points
directed backwards ; tail with two strong spines at the last joint ; the
middle lamella with ten spines above, five on each side ; terminated by two
strong black bristles.

ZOOLOGY.

ecxxxix

POLYNOE CiRRATA.

Aphrodita cirrata, Faun. Green., No. 290.

Two specimens were taken on the shore of Melville Island in September.

POLYNOE ScABRA.

Aphrodita scabra, Faun. Green., No. 292.

A single specimen was taken on the shore of Melville Island in the same
month as the preceding.

Loligo Sepiola.

An individual of this species was brought up in the trawl on the west coast
of Davis’ Strait, in lat. 70°. It agreed with the general description of au-
thors, and with the figure in Rondelet, 519.

Clio Borealis.

This well-known species was found in great abundance in all parts of Baffin’s
Bay, and Davis’ Strait, in the neighbourhood of ice.

Limacina Arctica.

Abundant in the same localities as the preceding ; both species were
very rarely met with in the Polar Sea ; and as they constitute the principal
food of the black whale, their absence will explain why not more than two
or three whales were seen during the whole period in which the Expedition
remained in that sea.

ccxl

SHELLS.

The following notice of the Shells collected by the Expedition, has been
^ furnished by John Edward Gray, Esq.

Sub Kingdom, Mollusca.

Class. — Gasteropodophora.

Order. — Ctenobranchia.

Fain. — Muricid^.

Genus. — Buccinum. Linne.

* Canal none, aperture base-cut.

Species — B. glaciale, Donovan Brit. Shells, t. 154<.

Tritonium glaciale, 0. Fabr., Faun. Groenl., 397.

** Canal short, open, bent to the left.

Species — B. Sabinii.

Testa oblonga, ventricosa, alba ; anfractibus quinque, convexis, longitudi-
naliter costatis ; apertura ovata ; eanali brevi. ‘

Buccinum Sabinii ; Gray Syst. Moll. Ineditum.

Shell oblong, ventricose, white; whorls five, convex, slightly longitudi-
nally rib-striated, finely transversely wrinkled ; epidermis thin, pale ; aper-
ture ovate, half the length of the shell, ending in a short open canal ; colu-
mella smooth, outer lip thin, inside slightly- crenated ; axis three-fourths
of an inch, diameter three-eighths.

It differs from Buccinum corneum, (Murex corneus, Lin.) by not being so

ZOOLOGY.

ccxli

long and slender, and the whorls more convex ; the aperture ovate instead of
roundish-ovate. The specimen brought home appears to be young.

Class. — CONCHOPHOR A.

Order. — Pachypoda.

Farm. — Myade^.

Genus. — Mya. Lin.

Species. — M^a truncata. List. Conch, t. 428, f. 269.

Order. — Leptopoda.

Fam .~N uculid as .

Genus. — Nucula, Lamarck.

** Shell behind slightly produced, gaping ; edge entire.

Species. — N. arctica.

Testa ovali-elliptica, laevis, tenuis, fragilis, flavescens ; latere antico lato,
rotundato, postico brevi, oblique truncato.

Nucula arctica. Gray ut supra.

Shell oval-elliptical, smooth, very slightly concentrically wrinkled ; epidermis
yellowish-green, glossy ; umbones rather acute, nearly central ; broad,
rounded, rather narrowed, obliquely truncated behind; inside glossy-whijte,
edge plain in front ; length (from front to back) half an inch ; depth (from
umbones to the opposite edge) a quarter ; breadth (from the outside of one
valve to the outside of the other, in the most convex part) one-sixth.

*** Shell behind much produced, gaping, above depressed.

Species. — N. rostrata, Lamarck Hist., vi., 58.

Area minuta, O. Fabr., Faun. Groenl., young?

Area rostrata, Chem. Conch., vij. 106. t. 55. f. 550. 551. — not. Mont?

Shell, length 7-8ths, depth 3-8ths, breadth 2-8ths, of an inch.

Animal, Mantle-lobes, separate from one another; foot compressed, sub-
quadrate, front rent ; gills attached to the hinder part of the mantle, as in the
Pholades and Myae.

Order. — Phyllopoda.

Fam. — Hyatellad.®.

ccxlii

APPENDIX.

Genus. — Hyatella. Daudin.

Species. — H. Arctica. Lamarck, Hist. vj.

Mya arctica. 0. Fabricius, Faun. Grcenl., 407,

Animal, Mantle-lobes, united together, except leaving a small ovate aper-
ture for the passage of the foot, on the lower side, near the front.

'ii;

Tubes 2 distinct.

Genus. — Saxicava. Lamarck.

Species. — S. pholadis. Lam. Hist., v. 502.

Mya byssifera. 0. Fab., Faun. Grcenl., 408.

Mya pholadis. Linn.

Shell differs from S. rugosa by its larger size, and being more produced and
acute in front, and in having deeper concentric furrows ; length 1 inch and
3-4ths, depth 3-4ths, breadth l-4th.

Animal, like that of Hyatella arctica.

Family. — Solenid^ .

Genus. — Glycimeris. Lamarck.

Species. — G. siliqua. Lam. Hist., v. 458

Solen siliqua. Chemn. Conch., xi. 192. t. 196. f. 1934.

Fam. — Venerid^e.

Genus. — Nicania. Leach.

* Margin of the valves even.

1. N. striata. Leach. Ross's Voyage.

Shell, length 3-4ths of an inch, depth one-half, breadth 3-4ths.

{Nicania Banksii of Dr. Leach belongs to this section.)

** Margin of the valves crenated.

2, N. crenata.

Testa ovali-elliptica, virescens, concentrice sulcata ; lunula oblongo-lanceo-
lata impressa ; margine crenulato.

Nicania crenata. Gray, ut supra.

Shell oval, elliptical, regularly concentrically urrowed ; epidermis pale
yellowish green ; umbones nearly central, front, with an oblong lanceolate

ZOOLOGY.

ccxUii

depression ; hinge of the right valve with one deep two-cut tooth and two lateral
holes ; of the left, with two single teeth, and a central hole, for the reception
of the tooth of the other valve ; lateral laminse, two in each valve, very small,
only rudimentary ; margin of the valves crenated.

In one specimen the teeth were reversed, for the right valve had two
teeth, and the left but one uncut, but it differed in no other point as I could
observe.

Animal, mantle lobes separate, foot compressed flat, quadrangular.

Tubes, none.

Genus. — Crassina. Lamarck.

Species 1. — C. Semisidcata. Leach. Rosses Voyage.

Species 2. — C. Arctica.

Testa subrotundo-ovata, convexa, nigra, concentric^ striolata ; umbones
subsulcatsB; lunula impressa oblongo-ovata; margine integerrimo.

Crassina Arctica. Gray, ut supra.

Shell roundish ovate, convex, white ; epidermis black, shining, finely
concentrically striated ; umbones, rather prominent, very slightly concentri-
cally furrowed; impression before the umbo, oblong ovate, deep, behind
lanceolate ; hinge, right valve, with one strong single tooth, with a hollow on
each side ; left, with two diverging teeth and a hollow in the centre ;
lateral lamina, two in each valve, front strong near to the hinge, hinder
remote, small ; edge even ; length one and half, depth one and quarter,
breadth 3-4th of an inch.

It differs from crassina semisnlcata, by being rounder, more convex, and
not so much sulcated.

F amily . — C ardi adaj.

Genus. — Cardium.

Shell obsokUly radiately ribbed, edge even.

ccxliv

APPENDIX^

Species. — C. Radiatum.

Cardium edentulum. Mont. Supple., 29.

Mactra radiata. Don., t. 161.

Family. — AncADiE.

Genus. — Arca. Lam.

Species. — A. glacialis

Testa, ovali-elliptica, tenui, villosa, alba, concentrice et transversim
striata ; postice rotundata ; umbonibus approximate ; dentibus sub-obsoletis ;
margine integerrimo.

Arca glacialis. Gra^, ut supra.

Shell, thin, oval, elliptical, rounded before and behind, regularly, finely
concentrically, and transversely striated; epidermis, silky; umbones, to-
wards the joint, incurved, nearly close ; intermediate space, lanceolate,
ventricose ; margin, even, thin ; hinge-teeth very small, indistinct in the
middle, rather larger at each end ; length 3-4ths of an inch, depth 3-8ths,
breadth 4-5ths.

Animal, mantle lobes separate ; foot flat, compressed, subquadrate, front
two cut, with one or two fibres from the lower edge ; trachea none.

Family. — MYTiLioiE.

Genus. — Modiola. Lamarck.

Shell longitudinally obliquely striated.

(Modiola Arctica, of Dr. Leach, in Ross’s Voyage, is

Mytilus Fabr., O. Fab., Fauna Grcenlandica, 419.

— Chemnitz, viij., 184. t. 85. f. 761.)

Shell, middle smooth, simated, before and behind, generally striated.

Species I. — Modiola nigra.

Modiola discrepans. Leach. Ross’s Voyage, not of Lamarck,
Mytilus discrepaiis. Mont. Ri it. Shells, t. 26. f. 4,

Species 2. — Modiola Icevigata.

ZOOLOGY. CCxlv

Testa ovali-elliptica, convexa, virescens, anticfe obsolete costostriata, pos-
tic^ rotundata laevigata.

Mytilus discors. Chemn., viij. 193. t. 86. f. 764. a. b.

Modiola laevigata. Gray, ut supra.

Shell, oval, elliptical, convex, ventricose, front with a few obsolete ribbed-
striae; middle and hinder part smooth, end rounded; epidermis, brownish
or yellowish green ; length one inch, depth S-8ths, breadth one half of an
inch.

Variety ^. — Substriata, shell more oblong, hinder portion very closely
obsoletely striated.

Two odd worn valves of this variety, which, on further examination,
may probably be considered as a distinct species, were brought home by
this expedition.

Order. — Micropoda.

Family. — Pectenida;:.

Genus. — Pecten. Lam.

Species. — P. ritreus.

Testa orbicularis, tenuis, hyalina, planulatalaevissima, lucida, subequivalvis ;
auriculis subequalibus IsBvibus.

Pecten vitreus. Gray, ut supra.

Shell, orbicular, thin, hyaline, quite smooth, glossy; valves, right, flattish,
ears, front slightly dilated, rounded, tender, obliquely truncated ; left, rather
convex; ears equal, obliquely truncated; margin even; length and depth
one inch, breadth l-4th.

Animal, mantle lobes, separate ; edge, fringed ; foot, ovate, thick. Tracheae
none.

Class. — Spirobrachiophora.

Family. — TEREBRATULIDiE.

Genus. — Terebratula. Lam.

Species — -T. psittacea. Lin. List. Conch., t. 211., f. 46.

2 h 2

ccxlvi

APPENDIX.

Sub Kingdom. — Annulosa.

Class. CiRRIPEDES.

Order. — Acamptosomata.

Family. — Balanid^e.

Genus. — Balanus. Leach.

Species. — Balanus glacialis.

Testa subcylindrica, obliqua, albida, obsolete transversim striata ; operculo
antic^ profunde transversim sulcato, postic^ irregulariter striato ; apice
acuto inflexo.

Shell, nearly cylindrical, oblique, aggregate ; valves, slightly irregularly
transversely striated ; operculum, forepart deeply tranversely furroM'’ed ; hind
part irregularly striated ; apex acute, bent forwards.

Class. — Chajtipoda.

Order. — Sedentaria.

Fam. — Serpuladas.

Genus. — Spirorbis. Lamarck.

Species 1. — S. nauiiloides. Lam. Hist., v. 359.

Serpula spirorbis. Linne. 0. Fab. 1. c. 377.

Species 2. — S. spirillum. Lam. 1. c. 359.

Serpula spirillum. Linne. 0. Fab. 1. c. 376.

Sub Kingdom, Radi at a.

Class. — Echinodermata.

Order, — Sphasroida.

Fam. — EcHiNiDiE,

Genus. — Echinus. Lam.

Species. — E. saxatilis. Linne. 0. Fabricius,]. c. 373}

Class. ZoOPHYTiE.

Order. — Cellepora.

Fam. 1. — Flustradaj. >

Genus. — Flustra. Linn.

Specics.—F. angustiloba. Lam. Hist,, ij. 158.

• ccxlvii

. ' p 2IJ. ” *

ROCK SPECIMENS.

>/Oi’ ■’ 'C

The following Observations on the Rock Specimens, collected by the
• Expedition, has been furnished by Charles Konig, Esq., F.R.S., &c.

We may conclude, from the nature of the rock specimens collected on
the former voyage for discovering the North-West Passage, that both the
east and west coast of Davis’ Strait and Baffin’s Bay are composed of primi-
tive formations, in connexion with others of a more recent date, which for
the greatest part belong to several members of Werner's trap formation. It
would appear, however, from the paucity of specimens decidedly referable
to trap rocks among those brought from Baffin’s Bay by the late Expedition
to the Arctic Seas, that the same formation is less prevalent on the western
coast. While on the west coast of Greenland it exists in all its different
gradations, but more particularly in the form of amygdaloidal transition trap,
with many of those minerals which are usually found nidulating in it, such
as calcedony, agate, jasper, green earth, &c., no traces of any of these sub-
stances are seen among the specimens collected by the Expedition in its
progress down the western coast of Baffin’s Bay, where the principal rocks
are gneiss and micaceous quartz-rock, with some ambiguous granitic com-
pound, in which hornblende seems to enter as a subordinate ingredient.

In the latitude of the entrance into Sir James Lancaster’s Sound, the
specimens, which I had an opportunity of seeing, begin to indicate the

ccxlviii

APPENDIX.

predominance of older traps, with other concomitant transition rocks.
Among them the more prominent are fragments (many indeed only detached
from boulders,) of well-defined syenite, with red, and others with greenish-
grey feldspar, the latter approaching to compact in its texture. Epidote,
which is frequently seen in this syenite, has in some specimens the appear-
ance of being one of the constituent ingredients of the rock. Other masses
from Possession Bay are hornblende rock, with disseminated garnets; green-
stone, apparently primitive, and a greenish-grey sandstone more or less
impregnated with oxide of iron. There are a few other varieties of sand-
stone, one of which, more or less streaked with reddish-brown, has all the
characters of and may possibly belong to the bunt-sandsteiii of Werner; espe-
cially as there are accompanying specimens of fibrous and fletz-gypsum,
which formation is generally found with and resting upon the second or
variegated sandstone, and is often overlaid by shell limestone. Of this last-
mentioned variety of fletz limestone, there is a specimen among those col-
lected in the valley of Possession Bay, by Mr. Fisher. This gentleman, it is
observed, found that valley to consist partly of basalt ; but I have not seen
any specimens of this rock among the fragments obtained in that place. The
other rocks from that quarter which have fallen under my observation,
are chiefly primitive, viz., granite, gneiss, and some mica slate, with horn-
blende and quartz rock. They exhibit nothing new or remarkable in their
oryctognostic character. The several varieties of granite differ from each
other only in the varying proportion of the usual component parts, in their
grain and colour. Both the gneiss and mica slate contain small imbedded
garnets, and to the latter of these may be referred a micaceous mass,
enclosing grains and amorphous masses of noble garnet, intermixed with a
yellowish-white substance, which seems to be compact feldspar. Another
substance from Possession Bay which deserves to be noticed, is a variety of
fibrous limestone, not inferior in lustre, when polished, to the satin spar of
Cumberland.

Compared with these rock specimens from the western coast of Baffin^s

ROCK SPECIMENS.

ccxlix

Bay, those gathered on th'e coasts where Captain Parry’s discoveries com-
menced, seem to indicate a considerable difference in the respective geolo-
gical features of those tracts. The north coast of Barrow’s Strait, as far
westward as the Polar Sea, and part of the eastern coast of Prince Regent’s
Inlet, appear to exhibit a character belonging to those more recent forma-
tions which are known to proceed from the primitive mountains of Scandi-
navia, and other explored tracts of high northern latitudes. Among them a
variety of limestone seems to prevail, which is very like the Alpine or
mountain limestone. It is compact, of yellowish and greyish colour, and
contains, among other remains of zoophytes and shells, abundance of the
same species of Terebratula, which are characteristic of that rock in various
alpine tracts in Europe. A greyish-brown fetid variety of limestone, from
the north side of Barrow’s Strait, bears great resemblance to the mountain
limestone as it occurs in Derbyshire; it contains parts of corallines, which
are, however, too imperfect to be determined. The chert, or hornstone, of
which likewise specimens were found in those parts, may, perhaps, occur as
subordinate beds in this transition limestone. Among the specimens from
Riley Cape is a fragment of white granular marble passing into compact.

Not less indicative of the formation to which the above-mentioned varie-
ties of limestone belong, is a calcareous mass, which, it would seem, abounds
in various parts of the north coast of Barrow’s Strait, on the eastern coast of
Prince Regent’s Inlet, and which also occurs on the South coast of North
Georgia. This limestone, which bears some resemblance to that of Goth-
land, in which parts of the stems of Encrini are found, is yet suffieiently
distinct from this, and all other varieties I am acquainted with, to deserve
being briefly noticed in this place.

It is of a yellowish white colour, and, in most hand specimens, exhibits a
uniform coarse-granular structure ; it is friable, and the grains are indeter-
minately angular, more or less shining, and sometimes intermixed with, or
cemented by, calcareous matter of a deeper yellow. Reduced to powder, it
emits a yellow phosphorescent light when strewed on a heated iron. This

ccl

appendix.

calcareous rock, in some specimens from Prince Regent’s Inlet, abounds
■with parts of the jointed stem and single joints of a zoophyte belonging to.
the natural order of Encrini ; other specimens appear to be entirely without
these bodies : but on subjecting the different varieties of aggregation to a closer
examination, it will be found that those which contain no remains mani-
festly belonging to the just mentioned organized fossil bodies, are, never-
theless, entirely composed of their detritus. This encrinitic mass, in single
specimens, might readily be mistaken for a friable variety of common granular
limestone, did not a comparison of a scries of specimens prove that appear-
ance to be produced by the extreme comminution of the substance of those
fossil zoophytes, each particle of which still exhibits planes of cleavage
parallel to the primitive rhombohedron.

The joints of the stem and branches of the zoophyte which appears to
have thus largely contributed to the formation of this mass, are mostly cylin-
drical ; their thickness is in an inverted ratio with that of the column of which
they form parts ; those near the body being the largest and thinnest. Cylin-
drical portions of the stem, formed by these thinner vertebrse, exhibit on
their surface hemispheric concavities, some of them large enough to occupy
from four to six of the thin joints or vertebra, the lines of separation of which
are seen to traverse the cavities in a horizontal direction. They are the
sockets of articulation, in Avhich the branches of the stem were inserted.
The casts produced from these concavities in the surrounding mass, might,
Avhen seen without their moulds, be easily mistaken for distinct organic
remains. There is little doubt that this zoophyte is related to some of
those encrinites of which parts of the stem and branches so frequently occur
in the transition limestone of Gothland. It seems to me also probable that
many of the screw stones (Epitonium, L.) owe their origin to the decompo-
sition of the stems of species belonging to this genus.

Another species of a genus of zoophytes, peculiar to the transition
limestone, was found by Captain Parry, in Prince Regent’s Inlet, at the
foot of a high hill. It is a fine Catenipora, which appears to be quite dis-

ROCK SPECIMENS.

ccli

tinct from the commo chain coral of Gothland, and other countries.
Lamarck has two species of this genus, namely, the common one, which is
(rather unaptly) called by him C. escharoides ; and another, which he distin-
guishes by the name of C. axillaris, though it appears from his reference to a
figure in the Amcenitates Academicce, that he is speaking of Tubipora serpens,
L., which is not a congener of, and can indeed scarcely be considered as
belonging to, the same natural order with Catenipora. We may, therefore,
look upon this arctic species as an imdescribed and anonymous one. I
call it

Catenipora Parn7; tubulis crassiusculis, compressis, collectis in laminas
sinuatas varie inter sese coalitas, tubulorumorificiis ovatis saepe confluentibus:
dissepimentis confertissimis.

The space between the laminae is filled up by a yellowish calcareous
mass ; the tubes themselves are converted into carbonate of lime, internally
drused with minute crystals of the same substance.

Very little can be inferred from the specimens of primitive rocks,
gathered both in Prince Regent’s Inlet and Barrow’s Strait : they are, for
the most part, fragments from rolled pieces, and consist chiefly of granite,
mica slate, and quartz rock. There are, nevertheless, some among them,
especially among those from the first-mentioned tract, which distinctly
indicate primitive trap formation, such as granular and slaty hornblende
rock, together with several varieties of syenite, and similar rocks, in which
hornblende and feldspar form the predominating ingredients ; some of
them enclosing massive and indistinctly crystallized epidote of either a
yellowish or grass-green colour. Among some specimens found at Port
Bowen, on the eastern coast of Prince Regent’s Inlet, may be specified a
rolled piece of a mass, composed of flesh-red feldspar, greyish-white quartz,
and a substance which is distinct from epidote, though it might easily be
mistaken for it. According to an analysis, with which I have been favoured
by J. G, Children, Esq., it is composed of silica 59.89, alumina 22.45, soda
6.84, linie 4.85, oxide of iron 4.0, magnesia 0.67, oxide of manganese 0.16;

cclii

APPENDIX.

— loss 1.14<. Its specific gravity Mr. Children found to be 2.67. Before the
blow-pipe it melts into a milk-white enamel. Its colour is a dirty yellowish
green, passing into brownish. It is scratched by the knife ; streak white.
Fracture uneven, dull, approaching to resinous ; here and there with small
planes of cleavage, which are shining, and even splendent. It is rather
easily frangible ; the fragments are indeterminately angular, and translucent
at the edges. This substance, which I suppose constitutes a distinct species
among the silicates of sodium, appears to be one of those which enter the
composition of the rock called Gabbro by Mr. Von Buch.

As probably connected with this formation we may consider the magnetic
iron-stone, of which some specimens were gathered in lat. 72° long. 90°
west ; it is of a very fine grain, and occurs also disseminated in, and alter-
nating with, granular quartz, exhibiting white and grey stripes. Some
specimens also of jaspery ironstone, mixed with particles of quartz, were
found on the eastern coast of Prince Regent’s Inlet. Nor is the presence of
iron less observable in specimens referable to more recent formations of trap
from the same quarter, such as various kinds of clay ironstone, and ferru-
ginous sandstone. Of the latter of these a greenish-grey variety appears to
be of particularly frequent occurrence in those parts ; if we are allowed to
judge from the many, especially tabular, fragments brought from thence,
which are all, more or less, impregnated with brown hydrous oxyde of iron,
some being so completely penetrated by it that they may be considered as
tolerably rich ores of this metal.

As it is sufficiently difficult to judge of the relative antiquity of depositions
of sandstone, when observed in situ, it would, of course, be altogether una-
vailing to indulge in conjectures respecting the formations to which the
fragments and rolled pieces may have belonged which were picked up in
various parts of the north coast of Barrow’s Strait, and Prince Regent’s Inlet.
The most abundant among them is a red sandstone, and a variegated
one with brownish-red stripes. These varieties are seen to pass into one
another: they are composed of small grains, united by a quartzy cement.

ROCK SPECIMENS.

celiii

and frequently confluent, so as to form a nearly compact, horn-stone-like
mass, similar to the variety of hard sandstone from Egypt, which has been
often employed in that country for purposes of statuary and architecture. In
external characters it agrees exactly with one of the oldest formations of fletz
sandstone, the bunt-sandstein of Werner; and the slaty grey sandstone, of
which specimens were found, may possibly be the sandstein-schiefer of the
same geologist, which is said to be a characteristic concomitant of this
second sandstone.

There is nothing particularly remarkable in the specimens from Byam
Martin’s Island : they are few in number, consisting of two varieties of granite,
both with bright-red feldspar, red close-grained sandstone passing into com-
pact, and a ferruginous sandstone, together with small fragments of flint slate.

The rock specimens from Melville Island, though little can be said
respecting the relative situation of most of them (they being chiefly rolled
pieces, or casual fragments,) yet form a more complete series than the others,
and some of them are by no means uninteresting. There are two or three
varieties of granite, gneiss, and syenite ; the latter (from Winter Harbour,
and the north shore of the island,) of a larger grain and with red feldspar,
contains much green epidote, and is very like that which occurs in several
parts of the island of Jersey In another variety from Winter Harbour,
which contains some disseminated iron pyrites, the hornblende appears in a
more compact state, and in the shape of irregular veins and threads. Another
variety from the same place is rather remarkable from its exhibiting here and
there small cavities, drused by minute quartz crystals, and coated by scaly
red ironstone. In another specimen, small grains of ironstone, attracted by
the magnet, were seen, and, upon examination, found to be titaniferous. The
few pieces of hornblende rock from this island, seem to be detached from
boulders found in Winter Harbour ; among them is also a specimen of a
slaty compound of hornblende, mica, and red feldspar.

* See my description of it in Plees’s Account of Jersey, p. 233.

2 i 2

ccliv

APPENDIX.

The principal formation of the island appears to be the fletz sandstone,
with the subordinate one of coal and ironstone. The structure of the cliffs
along a considerable extent of the northern shore of Barrow’s Strait, ex-
hibitingi,’ibeside horizontal stratification, numerous buttress-like projections
and mural' precipices, is not of uncommon occurrence in the formations of the
transition and older fletz limestone ; but still more striking in this respect is
the appearance of the sandstone formations, especially those of more ancient
date. Having undergone a peculiar disintegration which acts in a direction
nearly perpendicular to the horizontal stratification, they exhibit the repre-
sentations of ruined towers, buttresses, pillars, and similar works raised by
the hand of men. This structure, so strikingly expressed in the sandstone
formation of Bohemia, Saxony, and other parts of Germany, at the Cape of
Good Hope, and particularly in several mountainous tracts of China, appears
no less characteristic of the sandstone of some parts of the coast of Melville
Island, especially at Cape Dundas, the westernmost point to which the
investigation of Captain Parry extended, and the general features of which
have been so ably described by him in his Journal.

This sandstone is composed of very fine, flat, confluent grains, with here
and there the appearance of minute silvery scales, which, when more or less
aggregate, communicate to the mass a perfectly micaceous appearance. It
occurs both of a uniform greyish-white colour, and more or less marked
throughout by small brown ochry spots, which sometimes are confluent into
large patches. It generally separates into tabular pieces, and is sometimes
invested on the rifts with thin plates of white carbonate of lime. Some of its
varieties are not unlike grauwacke slate. It contains secondary fossils. Of
the specimens which I had an opportunity of examining, two bore the
impressions of a Trilobite, but too indistinct to admit of being determined
with precision’^.

* I have since determined it to belong to Brongnart’s genus of Asaphus lately published ; but
whether or not it be one of the species described by him and Wahlenberg, cannot be ascertained
from the specimen alluded to.

ROCK- SRECIMENS.

cclv

In another variety of sandstone, of a grey colour, found incthe neighbour-
hood of 'Table-hill, I observed some diskTshaped bodies of abotitdialf an inch
in diameter, exhibiting concentric circles; with creiiulated rays proceeding
from the* centre, which is in the form of i a small knob : they are, I no doubt,
trochi or joints of the stem of an Encrinus ; but this is all that can be said
of them. mo noi

The two specimens of sandstone containing the above-mentioned secondary
fossils, >are pretty similar in appearance to those others brought from Melville
island, which abound with the vegetable remains characteristic of the coal
sandstone. These are most of them merely impressions and filmy carbo-
naceous remnants of leaves (or fronds with ovate-lanceolate leaflets,) and
stems, which by their regularly placed oval marks, indicate that the proto-
types belonged to the arborescent ferns which we observe in such great
abundance in the coal sandstone of more southern latitudes ; a proof that
the inhospitable hyperborean region w^here they occur, at one time displayed
the noble scene of a luxuriant and stately vegetation. There is also among
the specimens of sandstone from the same place, one bearing the impression
of a thin, longitudinally-striated stem, not unlike that of some reed.

The coal itself is of a more or less slaty structure, and approaches, in some
specimens, to the nature of brown coal ; its colour is of a brownish black ; it
is easily cleft, and the planes of separation, which are without lustre, exhibit
here and there black shining spots, and lines apparently of a bituminous
nature. It emits no unpleasant smell when burrsing, and leaves copious
greyish- white ashes. This coal is not the same with that of Disco Island,
which contains the amber; it differs from it both in colour and i structure.
There is a piece of fine pitch coal or jet among the objects picked up in the
neighbourhood of Cape Hearne.

Part of the specimens of argillaceous and brown ironstone, found in
Melville Island, evidently belong to the same formation as the sandstone so
abundant in these parts, and are alike concomitants of the coal. They
consist chiefly of rounded pieces, and likewise of geodes : the former appear

cclvi

APPENDIX.

also to exist here in the shape of a conglomerate. Some specimens from
Table-hill and its neighbourhood, as also from Liddon’s Gulf, are marked
with the impressions of bivalves, particularly of a small, flat, ovate cuneiform
species of Avicula, of which a figure will be given elsewhere under the
name of A. Melvilliana.

One of the fragments of compact brown ironstone exhibits a glossy
surface and fracture, approaching to fibrous.

There are also specimens of sandstone which exhibit a transition into a
kind of brown ironstone : in this state it is generally seen as tabular pieces,
similar to that which in some parts of Norway, <^t., is deposited in beds of a
few inches’ thickness in sandstone, into which it passes.

In the same manner the hydrous oxyde of iron is seen to penetrate clay
which here and there slightly effervesces with acids, and is therefore a ferru-
ginous marl.

There are a few varieties of slate-clay, such as might be expected to occur
with coal and sand-stone formations : they are very soft, of ash-grey, and
greenish-grey colour, and were found overlaid by sandstone at the bottom
of ravines.

The limestone from Melville Island, especially that from Table-hill, bears
the character belonging to that of the oldest fletz or transition formation.
The secondary fossils which it contains are chiefly bivalve shells and coral-
lines. None of these, however, are perfect enough to admit of the deter-
mination of the genera to which they respectively belong, except a small
species of Terebratula of that division which comprehends the Petunculi of
earlier writers on petrifactions, and a species of Favosites, which does not
appear to differ from F. Gothlandicus.

There are a few specimens among those from Winter Harbour and Table-
hill, which appear to bespeak the presence of fletz trap-rocks in Melville
Island ; but being found as rolled stones, they do not allow any judgment
being formed of the relation in which they stand to the other formations. I
have seen from those parts a few small fragments of calcedony, with opaque

ROCK SPECIMENS.

cclvii

stripes like the onyx from Iceland and Fence ; fragments of red jasper, and
of a jaspery breccia ; apiece of a compact liornstone-like mass of greenish
colour mixed with reddish, and small rolled pieces of basalt. There is
also among them a specimen of wood-hornstone of greyish-brown colour, with
concentric yellowish-white rings. Nor should I omit mentioning a similar
specimen of woodstone from Byam Martin’s Island, with numerous close con-
centric rings, the curve of which indicates its being a fragment of the stem
of a petrified dicotyledonous tree. It is susceptible of taking a beautiful
polish.

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APPENDIX XL

BOTANY

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N®- XI.

A LIST OF PLANTS,

COLLECTED lU

JJELVILLE . ISLAND,

BY THE OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION;

WITH CHARACTERS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF THE NEW SPECIES.

BY

ROBERT BROWN, F.R.S. and L.S.

THE following list of the Plants observed in Melville Island,' chiefly in the vicinity
of Winter Harbour, is drawn up from the Herbaria of Captain Sabine, Mr. Edwards,
Mr. James Ross, Captain Pany, Mr. Fisher, and Mr. Beverley, whose names are here
given in the order of the extent of their collections.

To Captain Parry, Mr. Edwards, Mr. Fisher, and Mr. Ross, I am indebted for complete
series of specimens of their respective collections ; and I have to offer my acknowledgments
to Captain Sabine for having allowed me freely to examine his more extensive herbarium,
and to retain it until he was about to leave England, in October, 1821, when the whole, in
compliance with his request, was returned to him.

The delay that has taken place in the publication of the present account has been, in
part, owing to the state of my health during a considerable portion of the time that
has elapsed since the collections were placed in my hands. I have also experienced mucli
greater difficulty than I had anticipated in determining many of the species ; arising

either from their extremely variable nature, from the incomplete state of the specimens

2 k 2

ccixii

PREFATORY REMARKS.

contained in the collections, or from the want of authentic specimens of other countries,
Avith Avhich it was necessary to compare them. I may notice, likewise, as a third cause
of the delay, the greater extent of my original plan, Avhich included remarks on the
state and relative pz’oportions of the primary divisions and natural orders contained in
the list ; a comparison with the vegetation of regions of nearly similar climates ; and
observations on the I'ange of those species common to Melville Island and other parts
of the world. Towards the completion of this plan I had made considerable progress.
But to have satisfactorily treated some of the subjects referred to would have required
more time than I have had it in my power to devote to them, and in several cases better
materials than I have hitherto been able to obtain.

I have consequently found it necessary to relinquish, for the pi'esent, this part of my
plan^g and to confine myself to a systematic list, adding only characters and descriptions

* I shall heie offer a single remark on the relative proportions of the two primary divisions of
Phcenogamous Plants.

In my earliest observations on this subject I had come to the conclusion that from 45° as far
as 60° or perhaps 65° of North Latitude, the proportion of Dicotyledonous to Monocotyledonous
plants gradually diminished. (Flinders' voy. 2. p. 538.) But from a subsequent examination of
the list of Greenland plants, given by Professor Giesecke, (Art. Greenland, in Brewster’s Edinburgh
Encyclopedia) as well as from what I had been able to collect respecting the vegetation of alpine
regions, I had supposed it not improbable that in still higher latitudes, and at corresponding
heights above the level of the sea, the relative numbers of these two divisions were again inverted;
(Tuckey’s Conyo, p. 423.) in the list of Greenland plants referred to, Dicotyledones being to
Monocotyledones as four to one, or in nearly the equinoctial ratio ; and in the vegetation of
Spitzbergen, as Avell as it could be judged of from the materials hitherto collected, the proportion of
Dicotyledones appearing to be still further increased.

This inversion in the cases now mentioned was found to depend at least as much on the
reduction of the proportion of Grainineae, as on the increase of certain Dicotyledonous families,
especially Saxifrageee and Cruciferse.

’I'he Flora of Melville Island, however, which, as far as relates to the two primary divisions of
Pheenogamous plants, is probably as much to be depended on as any local catalogue hitherto
published, leads to very different conclusions; Dicotyledones being in the present list to Mono-
cotyledones as five to two, or in as low a ratio as has been any where yet observed ; tvhile
the proportion of Grasses, instead of being reduced, is nearly double what has been found in any
other part of the world; (see Humboldt, in Diet, des Sciences Nat., tom. 18, table at p. 416.)
this family forming one-fifth of the whole Phsenogamous vegetation.

PREFATORY REMARKS.

cclxiii

of the new or imperfectly known genera and species ; the only indication left of my intention
to treat any of the subjects alluded to being a greater number of references to authors
than is absolutely necessary for the present list, though essential to my oi'iginal design.

With this more limited plan, and with its execution, as far at least as regards the deter-
mination of several of the species, I am so little satisfied, that had the publication depended
entirely on myself, and related solely to the present essay, I shoidd have deferred it still
longer, probably until the return of Captain Parry from the arduous enterprise in Avhlch
he is now embarked.

I have, however, to express my regret for the delay that has already taken place, as it
has prevented the appearance of the valuable memoirs in other departments of Natural
History, Avhich have been long ready for publication ; and also as it has till now deprived
Botanists of the excellent figures so admirably illustrating the structure of the plants
selected for engraving, and for which it is hardly necessary to add that I am indebted to the
friendship of Mr. Bauer.

cclxiv

APPENDIX.

DICOTYLEDONES,

RANUNCULACE^.

1. Ranunculus nivalis, foliis radicalibus elongato-petiolatis dilatatis lobatis: lobis
subovatis ; cavdinls subsessilibus palmatis, caule erecto subunifloro, petalis obovatis integer-
I’iniis longiorlbus calyce hirsutissimo, stylis rectiusculis ovaria glabra asquantibus.

Ranunculus nivalis. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 156. Schlechtcncl. ranuncul. sect. post. p. 14.

/3. folia radicalia basi cuneata vix ad medium lobata, lobo medio semiovato basi latiore,
petala orbiculato-obovata calyce birsutissimo sesquilongiora.

Ranunculus nivalis. /3. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 157. (exclus. syn. Martens spitzb.)

Ranunculus sulphureus. Soland. in Phipps' voi/. p. 202, (fide speciminis unici biflori
absque foliis radicalibus, in Herb-, Banks.) DeCand. syst. nat. p. 274, (exclus. syn.
Martens spitzb., Laxmanni, Willdenovii et Smitbii.) Br. spitzb. pi. in Scoresby's arct.
reg. 1. append, p. 75. Richardson in Franklin'’s journ. p. 742.

7. folia radicalia basi subcuneata v. transversa alte lobata, lobo medio cuneato-obovato basi
angustiorc.

Obs. Varietas 7. cujus exemplaria duo tantum a nobis visa proximo accedit «. quae, in Insula
Melville baud observata, sequentibus notis distinguenda.

a. folia radicalia reniformia alte lobata, lobo medio cuneato-obovato basi angustiore.

Ranunculus nivalis. DeCand. sys. nat. 1, p. 273, exclus. cit. ad Sw. in act. holm.
1789. p. 47. quae R. pygmmus, et syn. Martens spitzb. ad var /3. pertinente.

A. R. nivali dilFert R. frigldus Willden. foliis radicalibus minus alte incisis lobulis
pluribus, petalis obcordatis venis anastomozantibus, quae in R. nivali distinctae, et statura
paulo majore.

2. Ranunculus Sabinii, foliis radicalibus elongato-petiolatis tripai'titis : lobis ellipticis :
lateralibus semibifidis ; caulinis sessilibus tripartitis linearibus, calycibus hirsutis petala retusa
subaequantibus.

Obs. Planta inter R. nivalem et pygmmam media in Herb. D. Sabine exstat, ulterius
examinanda, forsan baud distincta a R. nivali cujus cfr. ic. Flor. Dan. 1699> ubi petala
retusa et folium radicale pinnatifidum.

3. Ranunculus hypekboueus, foliis petiolatis trifidis : lobis divaricatis obtusis : lateral-
ibus subbifidis medio integerrimo, caule repente, acbeniis Isevibus stigmate sessili apiculatis.

Ranunculus byperboreus. Rottb. in act. Hafn. 10. p. 458. t. 4. n. 16, Flor. Dan. 331.
Zceg. flor. island, in Olafs. reise. 2. p. 237. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 1322. Pers. syn. 2.
p. 104. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 158. De Cand. syst. nat. 1. p. 272. Schlechtend. ranuncul.
sect. post. p. 12.

botany.

cclxv

Ranunculus foliis subrotundis trilobis integei'rimis, caule repente. Gmel. Sib. 4. p. S04.
t. 83. b.

Desc. pusilla glabra. Folia elongato-petiolata, alte trifida, lobo medio ovali saspis-

sime indiviso, lateralibus s^pius bifidis lobulo exteriore minore, nunc indivisis, rarissime tri-
fidis. Petioli filiformes basi vaginantes. Pedunculi oppositifolii, petiolum subasquantes,
saepius pills sparsis adpressis. Calyx tetraphyllus nunc triphyllus, (an imquam 5-pIiyllus ?)
foliolis concavis pilosiusculis. Petala 5, calyce manlfeste longioi'a, lamina obovata, intus
nitenti trinervi, ungue linear!, apice foveola angusta marginata. Stamina 15 — 18, petalis
breviora, filamentis inaequalibus, antheris ovalibus. Achenia (30 circiter) in capitulum
ovatum congesta, stigmate brevi mucronulata.

4. Ranunculus afeinis, foliis radicalibus pedato-multifldis petiolatis; caulinis subsessilibus
digitalis ; lobis omnium bnearibus, caule erecto 1-2-floro cum calycibus ovariisque pubes-
centibus, fructibus oblongo-cybndraceis, acheniis rostro recurvo.

Obs. R. auricomo proxima species.

5. Caltha auctica, caule repente, foliis renlformibus crenato-repandls obtusis, foUiculis
(12^ — 16) imbricatis, stigmate persistente adnato apice recurvo, antheris linearibus viginti
pluribus.

Obs. Affinitate C. radicanti accedit; figura foliorum et caule repente convenit cum C.
natante, quae facile distinguenda pistiHis stamina longitudine et numero superantibus, in
capitulum sph^ricum dense congestis, stigmatibus rectis simplicibus subsessilibus, antheris
ovalibus, floribus albis foliisque aliquoties minoribus, et facie diversissima.

PAPAVERACE.®.

6. Pap AVER nudicaule. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 725. Flor. Dan. 41. Willden. sp. pi.
2. p. 1145. Pers. syn. 2, p. 62. Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 193. Hooker in
Scoresby''s Greenl. y). 413.

Papaver nudicaule j. radicatum. De Cand. syst. nat. 2. p. 70.

Papaver radicatum. Rottb. in act. Hafn. 10. p. 455. t. 8. p. 24, Br. spitzb. pi. in
Scoresby’'s arct. reg. 1. append, p. 75.

CRUCIFERiE.

7. Dr ABA ALPiNA. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 1. pi 642. ed. 2. p. 896. Willden. sp. pi. 3.
p. 425. Pers. syn. 2. p. 100. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 173. De Cand. syst. nat. 2. p. 338.

a. silicul® glabra.

Draba alpina Herb. Linn.

0. siliculae pilosae.

Draba alpina. Br. spitzb. pi. in Scorcsby’s arct. reg. 1. append, p. 75.

cclxvi

APPENDIX.

8. Dr ABA I'AUCiFLORA, scapls aphyllis pedicellisque pilosis, foliis lanceolatis integer-
rimis pilis fiircatis simplicibusque, petalis (flavis) spathulatis calycem hirsutum vix superan-
tibus, ovariis glabris.

Obs. Dubia species, alpinfe proxima, cujus exemplar unicum in Herb. D. Sabine vidi.

9. Draba rappoxica. De Cand. syst. nat. 2. p. 344.

Draba androsacea. Wahlenb . lapp . y). 174. 1 11. 5. exclus. syn.

Desc. Radix fusiformis, fibris nonnullis longis simplicibus, multiceps. Caules breves,
divisi, basi reliquiis petiolorum emarcidis albis squamati, partiales semunciales, dense foliati.
Folia lanceolata v. oblongo-lanceolata acutiuscula, plana, integerrima, venis alte immersis
anastomozantibus, marginibus ciliatis pilis patentibus simplicibus paucissimisque furcatis,
paginis adultorum glabris, novellorum pube brevi ramosa substellata conspersis. Scapi
unciales — sesquiunciales, ssepissime aphylli, nunc folio unico lanceolato-lineari instructi, gla-
berrimi, laeves. Corymbi 5-6-flori pedicellis glaberrimis patentibus, inferioribus flore saepe
longioribus. Calyx : foliolis concavis, ovalibus, extus vel pilis nonnullis simplicibus con-
spersis vel sfcpius glaberrimis. Petala alba, calyce duplo longiora, ungue brevi, lamina
obovata venosa. Stamina tetradynama, calyce longiora, petalis hxeCwra, Jilamentis edentulis,
antheris imiformibus, subrotundis ochroleucis. Ovarium sessile ovatum glabrum. Stylus
brevlssimus. Stigma capltato-bilobum, stylo manifeste latlus. Siliculre racemoso-corymbos*,
lanceolato-ovata^ glabra?, stigmate subsessili aplcxdatae, pedicellis patentibus paulo longlores
polyspermae. Semina biseriata, immarginata.

10. CocHLEARiA FENESTRATA, siliculis ellipticis ovalibusve, valvis subavenlis, dissepi-
mento elliptico-lanceolato axi saepius fenestrato, foliis radicalibus cordatis integerrimis ; cau-
llnls spathulato oblongls subdentatis.

Cochlearla fenestrata. Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 3. p. 193. De Cand. syst. nat. 2.
p. 367.

Desc. Species polymorpba . Folia radlcalia reniformi-cordata, cito decidua ; caulina sessilia,
Integra vel paucldentata. Calyx saepe purpurascens. Petala alba, obovata, calyce longiora.
Antherce subfotundae. Stylus brevis. Stigma capltatum. Silicula obtusa stylo brevi cum
stigmate apiculata. Valvce ventricosae, venis alte Immersis. Dissepimentum nunc ellipticum,
nunc oblongum v. angustato-oblongum, e lamellis duabus tenuissimis facile separandis ; loculi
polyspermi. Funiculi umbilicales basibus connexis ope membranae angustae dissepimento
parallela'. Semina contraria, h. e. cruribus embryonis invicem septoque parallelis, ovata,
reticulata, immarginata.

Obs. In exemplarl unico Siliculas passim triloculares trivalves dissepimento pariter fenes-
trato observavi.

PLATYPETALUM.

Char. Gen. Silicula ovalls polysperma, valvis convexls. Cotyledones incumbentes.
Stylus brevlssimus. Calyx subpatens. Petalorum laminae dilatatae.

BOTANY.

cclxvii

Habitus fere Brayae quacum structura floris coiyledonibusque incuvibentibus convenit ;
satis diversum pericarfii forma. Affine quoque Subularias esse videtur, quae ob coty~
ledones angustas bicrures, in embryone tantum bicruri ab eadern i7ibu minime remo-
venda. Notis fructificationis pluribus accedit etiam Stenopetalo nob. quod calyce clauso,
petalis subulatis ! glandulis receptaculi et habitu diversissimum., nec revera affine.

11. Platypetalum pukpuuascens, stiguiate bllobo patentl, stylo manifesto, scapis nudis
unifoliisque pubescentibus, siliculis glabriusculis.

Desc. Radix perennis, fusiformis saepe multicaulis. Cazi/es breves, indivisi, basi denudati,
supra dense foliati. Folia lanceolata, obtusiuscula, integerrima, rarius dente uno alterove in-
structa, crassa, avenia, laete-viridia, apice pilis nonnullis albis acutis siinplicib\is rariusve furcatis
plerumque obsita; petioU basi dilatati membranacei pallidi. Scapi tenninales, saepius apbylli,
vix unciales, basi nunc glabrati. Corymb iis 4-6-florus, ebracteatus. Calyx modice patens,
sepalis ovatis concavis subaequalibus, extus fusco-purpureis, limbo angusto albo, apice saepe
pilosiusculis quandoque glaberrimis, tardius deciduis. Petala alba, purpureo dilute tincta,
unguiculata, laminis dilatatis, latioribus quam longioribus, integris, obtusissimis, ungues lineares
superanti])us. Glandulre receptaculi quatuor, per paria approximatae, latera lilamentorum
breviorum stipantes. Stamina tetradynama, filamentis edentulis distinctis; antheris uni-
formibus subrotundis ochroleucis. Ovarium sessile, ovale, pubescens pilis acutis simpli-
cibus numerosis albis. Stylus brevissimus, tamen manifestus. Stigma : lobis patentiljus,
obtusis, papulosis. Siliculce corymbosae, o^'ales, stylo brevissimo cum stigmate patent!
apiculatae, biloculares, polyspermae, valvis modice concavis, dissepimento complete. Semina
immarginata, fusca.

12. Platypetalum dubium, stigmate indiviso subsessili, siliculis scapisque pubescentibus.

Obs. Floribus ignotis dubiae genei’is planta cujus exemplaria tria in Herb. D. Sabine
exstant. Cotyledones certe incumbentes et lineares, basibus tamen crus radiculare embryonis
vix occupantibus.

EUTREMA.

Siliqua (abbreviata) anceps, valvis carinatis, dissepimento incomplete ! Cotyledones in-
cumbentes.

Herba habitu omnino Brayae et Platypetali, quibus maxime affine genus, distinguendum
tamen facile siliqua ancipiti, dissepimento incompleto, et seminum funicuhs.

13, EUTREMA EDWARDSII— Tab. A.

Desc. Herba perennis, glabra, 2-3-uncialls. Radix fusiformis, crassa, biuncialis, strils
transversis tenuibus saepe subannulata, fibrillas numerosas exserens, multicaulis. Caules sim-
plicissimi, erecti, paucifolii. Folia radicalia elongato-petiolata, ovato-lanceolata, integerrima
rarissime paucidentata, crassiuscula, plana, uninervia, venis alte immersis crebre anastomo-

2 1

cclxviii

APPENDIX.

zantibus inconspicuis, glaberiima : petiolis folio 4-5-ies longioribus, llnearibus membranacels.,
albicantibiis, aciversus lucem trinerviis ; caulina radicalibus conformia, inferioi'a brevi pe-
tiolata, siiperiora subsessilia. Corymbi 7-10-flori, densi, folio florali sessili saepe subtensi, cae-
terum ebracteati. Calyx glaber, sepalis aequalibus, ovatis, obtusis, modice concavis, trinerviis,
extra medium purpm’ascentibus, insertione parum inasqualibus. Petala alba, calyce sesquilon-
giora, ungues breves, lamincB obovataj, (vel ex ovali obovatae) obtusae, integerrim^, planae,
obsolete uninerviae, vix manifeste venosae. Glandules receptaculi quatuor, per paria approxi-
matae, latera filamentorum breviorum stipantes, parvae. Stamina tetradynama. Filamenta
subulata, glabra, edentula, duo lateralia paulo breviora basi aversa (acie nec superficie plana
ovarium spectanti.) Anther ce uniformes, ovato-subrotundae, incumbentes, infra medium affixae,
loculis parallelo-contiguis, longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Polle7i flavum, sphasriemn, simplex
quantum observare potui per lentem centies augentem. Ovarium sessile, glabrum oblongo-
ovatum, uniloculare, placentis duabus parietalibus polyspermis. Stylus brevissimis vix mani-
festus. Stigma capitatum, indi visum v. semibilobum, stylo vix amplius, Siliqua (siliculosae)
racemosae, erectae, lineari-lanceolatae, ancipites, glaberrimae, vix trilineares, stigmate obtuso
indiviso subsessili apiculatae. Valves carinatm, carina manifesta, venis immersis, cortice demum
ad margines solubili, in disco arctius adherenti ; replum cortice pariter separabili. Dissepi-
mentum, pra’ter basin apicemque ubi saepius completum, plerumque margo perangustus ad
utrumque latus cujus processus meinbranaceus angustior e quo funiculi umbilicales brevissimi
obtusi crassi papillagformes orti. Semina immarginata, fusca, laevia. Cotyledones incum-
bentes, lineari-oblongae, plano-convexiusculae, basi attenuata brevi in crure radicrdai'i sita.

Obs. This species is named in honour of Mr. Edwards, Surgeon of the Hecla, from
Avhose extensive and well-preserved herliarium I have derived great assistance in drawing
up the present list, and in which only perfect specimens with ripe siliqum of Eutrema
Edwardsii were found.

EXPLICATIO TABUL.E— A.

Eutkejia Edwakdsii. — 1. Planta florida, et 17. fructifera ; utraque magnitudine natu-
rali. Sequentes magnitudine auctae ; 2. flos integer ; 3. petalum ; 4. flos petalis orbatus ;
5. sepalum (foholum calycis) ; 6. stamina et pistillum integumentis floralibus avulsis; 7.
stamen longius ; 8. stamen brevius ; 9. pollen ad augmentum 200 ; 10. pistillum receptaculo
insidens a facie visum; 11. idem duplo auctius ; 12. ejusdem portio transverse secta ; 13.
idem valvis avulsis; 14. pistillum a latere visum; 15. idem valvis avulsis; 16. placentae
parietalis portio cum ovulis ; 18. siliqua matura dehiscens a facie visa ; 19- siliqua matura
clausa a latere visa ; 20. eadem valvis orbata; 21. eadem duplo auctius; 22. semen; 23.
idem transverse sectum ; 24. idem longitudinaliter sectum ; 25. embryo.

PARRYA.

Char. Gen. Siliqua lato-linearis, valvis venosis, Semina biseriata, testes epidermide

BOTANY.

cclxix

laxo, corrugate . Cotyledones accumbentes. Stigmata approximata basibus connatis in sty-
lum (brevissimum) decurrentibus. Filamenta edentula.

Herbse perennes^ glabrcE, subacaules. Folia radicalia mtegerrima v. dentata, crassiuscula^
opaca, venis immersis inconspicuis, petiolorum basibus dilatatis scariosis semivaginantibus.
Scapi radicales, aphylli, ebracteati. Flores purpurei. Calyx subpatens. Glandula;
hypogyn* 4, filamenta longiora extus stipantes.

Obs. Affinitate proximum genus Arabidi, diversum siliquaruni llgura, structura seminum
et stigmatis, et denique habitu.

This Genus is named in honour of Captain Parry, the distinguished commander of
the Expedition in which it was discovered, and whose herbarium contained very complete
specimens of the species here described.

14. PARRYA ARCTICA— Tab. B.

Parrya, siliquis lineari-oblongis, antheris ovalibus, foliis (fere omnibus) integerrimis,
peduncuhs glaberrimis.

Desc. Herba humilis, perennis, glaberrima. Radix perpendicularis, crassa, sublignea,
striis transversis tenuibus notata, ssepe multiceps. Caules brevissimi, dense foliati. Folia
petiolata, lanceolata passimve spathulato-lanceolata, integerrima, nonnulla rarissime pauci-
dentata, crassiuscula, opaca, immerse uninervia, venis alte immersis inconspicuis. Petioli
dimidio superiore angusto lineari textura laminge, inferiore dilatato semivaginanti scarioso
albicanti. Scapus caulem abbreviatum terminans vel saspe axillaris, aphyllus, ebracteatus,
glaberrimus, florifer foliis saspe duplo fructifer triplo — quadruplove longior. Flores corym-
bosi, peduncuhs patentibus glaberrimis. Calyx glaber, modice patens, deciduus : sepala
ovalia, obtusa, concava, insertione parum inaequalia, immerse nervosa, nervis passim oblique
connexis. Petala quatuor, aequalia, unguiculata, purpurea, rarius alba, calyce duplo longiora ;
ungues lineares ; lamince obovatae, uninervias, venosae venis apice dichotomis. Stamina 6,
tetradynama. Filamenta edentula ; 4 longiora latiora, altero latere extra medium paulo an-
gustiora. Antherce uniformes, infra medium affixae, oblongo-ovales, ochroleucas, basi cordata
lobulis approximato-parallelis, connectivo perangusto. Pollen sphasricum, simplex (nec
compositum quaUtum observare licuit per lentem 114i-ies augentem.) Glandules hypogynce.
quatuor, filamenta longiora extus stipantes. Ovarium sessile, glabrum, bhoculare, polysper-
mum, ovulis numerosis. Stylus brevissimus. Stigma bipartitum, lobis placentis oppositis,
obtusis, mutuo saepius appressis, basibus confluentibus et quasi in latera styli decurren-
tibus. SiliqU(Z racemosae, erectae, nonnullas quandoque pendulas, pedicellis patentibus, intra
cicatrices floris sessiles, lineari-oblongae, passim siliculiformes, utrinque obtusae. Valves
planae, uninerviae, venosas. Dissepimentum completum (rarissime fenestratum foramine
magno v. parvo) arachnoideo-areolatum, axi quandoque opaciori paulo incrassato, lineisve
duabus opacioribus axi approximatis. Funiculi umbilicales marginati, latiuscuh, dimidio
inferiori septo cohaerentes. Semina 6-8 in singulo loculo, saspiusque biseriata, epidermis
testae laxus, tenuissimus, albus, ultra ipsam testam in hmbum latiusculum extensus, supra
nucleum rugosus, testa ipsa, dempto epiderinide, crasso-membranacea e duabus laraellis

2 1 2

cclx'x

APPENDIX.

invicem arete cohferentibus conflata, membrana interna nulla nisi lamella interior testae.'
Embryo curvatus, plumbeus. Cotyledones ovali-obovatae, planiusculae, accumbentes, avenise.
Radicula teres, acuta.

Obs. Parryae altera species est P. Macrocarpa, siliquis knceolato-linearibus utrinque
acutis inter semina ssepe constrictis, antberis linearibus, pediceUis floriferis hispidiusculis, foliis
incisis dentatisque ; quae Cardamine nudicaulis, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 1, p. 654, fide speciminis
unici fructiferi absque floribus illius hei’barii. Cardamine, &c. Gmel. sib. 3. p. 273. n. 43.
Cardamine articulata, Pursh. am. 9,. p. 439. De Cand. syst. 9, p. 268. Arabis nudicaulis,
De Cand. syst. 9. p. 240.

EXPLICATIO TABUL.E— B.

Parkya arctica. — 1, 2, et 3. Plantae floridae et 21 planta fructifera; omnes magnitudine
naturali. Sequentes magnitudine aucta^ 4. flos integer, 5. petalum, 6. flos petalis orbatus,
7. sepalum, 8. genitalia integumentis floralibus avulsis, 9. stamen longius antice, 10. idem
postice visum, 11. stamen brevius, 12. pollen 200-les auctum, 13. pistillum receptaculo insidens
a facie visum, 14. idem duplo auctius, 15. idem valvis avulsis, 16. ejusdem (14) sectio trans-
versalis, 17. pistillum a latere visum, 18. idem valvis avulsis ovula exhibens loculi alterius,
19. ejusdem (17) sectio transversa, 20. placentae portio cum ovulis et funiculis suis, 22. siliqua
matura debiscens a facie visa, 23. siliqua matura clausa a latere visa, 24. eadem valvis orbata
exbibens dissepimentum et semina loculi alterius, 25. placentae portio cum seminibus duobus
epidermide laxo riigoso arilliformi tectis, 26. seminis maturi integumentis ambobus instructi
sectio transversa, 27. semen epidermide arilliformi orbatmn, 28. ejusdem sectio longi-
tudinalis, 29. embryo situ naturali, 30. idem cotyledonibus arte expansis, 31. semen abor-
tivum.

15. Cardamine bellidieolia. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 9. p. 913. Flor. Dan. t. 20. Waklenb.
lapp. p. 179- De Cand. syst. nat. 9. p. 249. Br. in Scoresby's arct. reg. 1. append,
p. 75.

Cardamine foliis siinplicibus ovatis petiolis longissimis. Linn. lapp. p. 214. n. 260.
(cum figura respectu babitus bona, quoad flores pessima, tab. 9, f. 2.) exclus. syn. Clusii et
Gerardi, ad Arabidem bellidifoliam pertinentibus, monente D. Smitb, in Flor. lapp. ed. 2.

CARYOPHYLLEdS.

16. Lychnis aretala. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 9. p. 626. Flor. Dan. 806. Willden^ sp.
pi. 9. p. 810. Pers. syn. 1. p. 520. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 135. t. 7. Br. in Ross' voy.
ed. 9. vol. 9. p. 192. Richardson in Franklin's jowrn. p. 738.

Cucubalus caule simplicissimo imifioro corolla inclusa. Linn. lapp. 143. w. 181. t. 12. y. 1.

17. Cerastium alfinum. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 9. p. 628. Willden. sp. pi. 9. p. 814.

BOTANY.

cclxxi

Pers. syn. 1. p. 521. Smith hrii. %. p. 500. Engl. hot. 472. Hooker scot. p. 144 et 280
Soland. in Phipps’" voy. p. 202. Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol^. 2. p. 192. Spitz, pi. in Scores-
by's arct. reg. 1. append, p. 75. Hooker in Scoresby greenl. p. 413. Cerastium latifolium.
Light f. scot. 1. p. 242. 1. 10.

Obs. Species polymorpha cujus tres varietates sequentes in Insula Melville observatse.

«. folia oblonga rariusve breve ovalia, pedunculi dichotomi rarius uniflori, pili pedun-
culorum plerique glanduloso-capitati, capsulae oblongae calyce duplo fere longiores. ^

/3. folia late ovata, pedunculi dichotomi pilis plerisque acutis, calycis foliola interiora
glabriuscula.

y. hirsuta, folia elliptica v. lanceolata, pedunculi divisi et solitarii, pilis plerisque acutis,
capsulm calyce pavdo longiores.

18. Stellabia Edwabusii, folds ovato-lanceolatis integeiTirnis enerviis nitidis, pedun-
culis terminallbus unifloris trifidisve, petalis blpartitis calyce immerse trinervi longloribus,
antheris purpureis.

Obs. Duplex varietas.

In a. (cujus exemplaria plurima in Melville Island, et aliqua anno 1792, ad Chester-
field Inlet lecta vldi) folia ovata acuta v. ovato-lanceolata, pedunculi solitarii v. trifidi,
lateralibus smpisslme unifloris altero nunc abortion te, dum solitarii ebracteati, dum divisi
bibracteati, bracteis semifoliaceis margine membranaceo ciliato, pedicellis lateralibus pariter
blbracteatis. Caulis et folia ssepius glaberrima, caulis nunc viliosiusculus et folia basi ciliata
villis tenuibus laxls.

/o. (cujus exemplaria duo, quorum alterum multlcaule,) folia ovato-lanceolata apice subatte-
nuata nitidissima, pedunculi saepius uniflori. Caules et folia glaberrima.

In utraque fructus desideratin', qul exstat in S. Edwardsii, Richardson in Franklin's jour n.
p. 738. In hac vero, quae forsan distincta species, antherae ochroleucae minimae et polline destl-
tutae, styli elongati et stigmata manifestiora, caules et folia glaberrima, capsula erecta calyce
fere duplo longior semisexvalvis, semina renlformia laevla fusca.

De Stellaria nitlda Hooker in Scoi'esby greenl. p. 411. cui secundum auctorem folia lan-
ceolata siccitate subtrinervia, flores subpanlculati et antherae flavae, incertus sum.

19. Abenabia quadbivalvis, folds subulatls acutis glaberrimis trinerviis, peduncuds
unifloris elongatis pubescentibus, calycibus acutisslmis trinerviis petala elliptica superantibus
capsula quadrlvalvl (nune 3 — 5-valvl) s^pius brevloribus.

Alsine rubella, Wahlenb. lapp. 128, t. 6, forsan baud distincta; sed secundum auctorem
capsula 3-valvis petala rubella et in icone subspathulata basi valde attenuata.

Desc. Herba 1-2-unclads. Radix perennis, dcscendens. Caulis a basi ramosissimus
cmspltem densum effbrmans, infra vaginis petiolaribus emarcidis nervisque fodorum denudatis
obsitus, supra dense fodatus. Folia opposita basi comiata, subulata, acuta, mutica, super
concaviuscula, subter convexa, trinervia, marginibus nudis. Pedunculi terminales solitarii,

cclxxii

APPENDIX.

uniflori, prope basin bibracteati, bracteis lanceolatis, semlfoliacels margine membranaceo,
pubescentes pilis brevibus, porrectis, glanduloso-capitatis, numerosis. Calyx 5-partitus,
sepalis lanceolatis, acntissimis, vix acuminatis, concaviusculis, trinerviis, viridibus nune
fusco-purpureo tinctis margine albo membranaceo, extus pilis nonnullis brevissimis minute
capitatis conspersis, persistens. Petal a 5, integerrima, alba, calyce paulo breviora, ovali-
oblonga v. elliptica, integerrima, basi parum attenuata, persistentia. Stamina decern,
margini disci brevissimi subcarnosi, dubias originis, perigyni potius quam hypogyni, inserta.
Filamenta subulato-filiformia, glabra. Antherx ochroleucse, subrotundae, loculis approximatis,
appositis, longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Ovarium sessile, ovatum, glabrum, uniloculare, poly-
spermum. Stigmata quatuor (passim 3 et 5) filiformia, alba intus longitudinaliter hispidula.
Capsula calyce persistent! appresso saepius paulo longior, nunc eundem subaequans, qua-
drivalvis, passim 3 et 5-valvis, valvis vix omnino ad basin distinctis. Receptaculum seminum
centrale, longitudine fere capsvdae, cum apice cavitatis primo connexum mox solutum. Semina
reniformia, laevia, fusca, funiculis umbilicalibus cum receptaculo communi persistentibus.

20. Arexakia Rossii, glaberrima, foliis triquetro subulatis obtusiusculis muticis enerviis
florem vix aequantibus, pedunculis unifloris elongatis, petalis oblongis calyces obsolete triner-
vios paulo superantibus.

Desc. Herba pusilla, glaberrima. Caules ramosissimi, caespitosi, dense foliati. Folia
oppositabasibus connatis, carinata. Pedunculi foliis aliquoties longiores. Calyx 5-partitus,
purpurascens; sepala aequalia, ovata, acutiuscula, modice concava, obsoletissime trinervia, mar-
ginibus membranaceis nudis. Petala 5, angusto-oblcnga, obtusa, integra, alba, calyce paululuni
longiora. Stamina 10. Filamenta disco scutelliformi subcarnoso potius perigyno quam
bypogyno inserta, e latiore basi filiformia, glabra, alba. Anther ce ovales, ochroleucje. Ovarium
ovatum, sessile, uniloculare, glabrum, polyspermum. Stigmata 3, filiformia.

Obs. Arenaria Rossii, Richardson in Frankliris journ, p. 738, pavdo diversa est statura
majoi’e, foliis calycem longitudine superantibus, minus crassis nec adeo obtusis, internodio
saepius brevioribus, calycis foliolis duobus exterioribus parum breviorlbus, nervis lateralibus
omnium manifestiorlbus, petalis longitudine calycis. In hac capsula trivalvis calycem asquat.

Alsine stiicta Wahlenb. lapp. p. 127. ab Arenaila Rossii Richards. 1. c. differt statura
duplo majore, foliis longiorlbus acutis aliisque notis.

SAXIFRAGE.®.
sAxiERAGA. Linn.

Chau. Gen. Stamina 10, antheris didymis. Petala indlvisa. Styli 2. Capsula (v.
adliserens v. libera,) bilocularis, birostris v. biloba, foramlne inter rostra ipsisve lobls intus
longitudinaliter dehiscens, polysperma. Semina : testa nucleo subconformi.

Obs. Cbaracterem in paucis mutatum structuram antlierarum et seminum respicientem

V

BOTANY. cclxxiii

proposui ob genus maxime affine (Leptauuhena nob. quae Saxifraga ampiexlfolia, Sternb.
saxifr. suppl. p. 2. t. 2. Saxifraga pyrollfolia, Don in Linn. soc. trans. 13. p. 389-) cui
antheras uniloculares bivalves septo incompleto parallelo, et semina (capsulae alte bilobae) sco-
biformia, testa utrinque ultra nucleum ovalem elongata, subulata !

21. Saxifraga oppositifolia. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 575. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 648.
a. Smith Brit. 2. p. 450. Engl. bot. t. 19. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 113. Carpal, p. 118.
Soland. in Phipps’ voy. p. 202. Br. in Ross’’ voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 192. Spitz, pi. in
Scoresby’’s arct. reg. 1. append, p. 75. Don. in Linn. soc. trans. v. 13. p. 400,>

22. Saxifraga hirculus. Linn, sp.pl. ed. 2. jo. 576.

/3. Petala obovata, ungue nudo : caulis uniflorus.

Saxifraga propinqua. Br. in Ross’’ voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 192.

Hirculus propinquus. Haw. Saxif. enum. p. 41.

Obs. Petala quandoque, saepius forsan, appendiculata et calyces ciliatl ; ideoque a S.
Plirculo vix differt nisi petalis plerumque obovatis ungue nudo nec ciliato, caule fere semper
unifloro et statura minore. Haec varietas solum in Insula MelviUe observata fuit.

23. Saxifraga flagellaris, flagellls filiformibus, caule erecto simplici 1-3-floro
calycibusque glanduloso-pubescentibus, foliis radicalibus caulinisque inferioribus obovato-
spathulatis ciliatis ; superiorlbus villosiusculls, petalis persistentibus capsula semisupera
longioribus.

Saxifraga flagellaris. Sternb. saxifr. p. 25 et 58. t. 6. Steven in Mem. soc. nat. cur.
mosq. 4. p. 79. Marschall for. taur-caucas. 3. p. 291. Br. in Ross’" voy. ed. 2. vol. 2.
p. 192. Don. in Linn. soc. trans. 13. p. 373.

Saxifraga setigera. Pursh. am. 1. p. 312.

Desc. Radix perpendicularis, fibras longas subsimplices dimittens, elevans Caulem
unicum, simplicissimum, 2-4-uncialem, foliatum, pubescentem, pilis brevibus strictis pur-
pureo-capitatis, sursum crebrioribus, basi demum giabratum. Folia indivisa, radicalia
et caulina inferiora confertissima, patentia, superiora sparsa: radicalia cuneato-obovata
et subspathulata, acutiuscula, plana, basi angustata in petiolum brevem latiusculum,
immerse nervosa, nervis lateralibus dichotomis ramis interioribus in extimum. margini folii
approximatum desinentibus, apicibus mox infra apicem folii confluentibus, ibique caUo
subovali in pagina superiore parum elevato aucta, mai’ginibus longitudinaliter ciliatis, pilis
subulatis strictis rigidulis brevibus albicantibus, capitulo glanduloso purpurascente de-
mum deciduo apiculatis, terminali dilatato pariter apiculato; caulina inferiora conferta,
radicalibus subsimilia figura, ciliis marginalibus et paginis glabris ; superiora sparsa,
paulo minora, oblonga, acutiuscula, basi vix attenuata, subsessilia utraque pagina margini-
busque pilis brevibus glanduloso-capitatis iisque calycis et caulis similibus. Flagella ex alis
foliorum radicalium et inferiorum caulis solitaria, filiformia, 3 — 5-uncias longa, angulata v.
anguste marginata, arcuato-deflexa, pilis glandulosis rarissimis conspersa, aphyUa, apice sobo-

cclxxiv

APPENDIX.

lifera : gemmula parva, turbinata, e foliolis naiiis niinierosis conniventibus, arete imbrlcatis,
obovatis acutiusculis, immerse nervosls, glabris, marginibiis ciliis nonnullis brevibus ornatis ;
et in ipsa basi radiculis 2 — 3 simplicibus singulis e vagina (coleorhiza) membranacea, primo
clausa dein lacerata erumpentibus. Flores 1 — 3, pedunculati, erecti, medius praecocior,
ebracteatus, laterales bractea unica nunc duabus alternis lato-linearibus sessilibus foliaceis.
Calyx basi adhaerens, dimidio libero 5-partito, laciniis ovatis, obtusiusculis extus pube glan-
dulosa foliorum instar conspersis, intus glaberrimis, nervis alte immersis. Petala 5, aurea
calyce duplo longiora, ungiie brevissimo, lamina obovata, 5 — T-nervi, saepissime inappen-
diculata, quandocpie squamula obsoleta extra nervos extimos. Stamina decern, calyce parum
longiora, petalis breviora. Filamenta subulata, suba'qualia. Anther x uniformes, cordatae,
flava?, loculis contiguis medio (margine) longitudinalitcr dehiscentibus. P ollen flavum.
Ovarium basi breve turbinata adherenti, dimidio libero bifido ; biloculare, polyspermum.
Styli vix ulli. Stigmata suborbiculata, depressa, papulosa, necomnino glabra. Capsula plus-
quam semisupera, bilocularis, biloba, calycis laciniis erectis cincta, et petalis persistentibus (vix
emarcidis) longioribus occidtata, lobis brevibus crassiusculis longitudinaliter, fere ad stig-
mata persistentia usque, dehiscentibus. Semina in cavitate bilocvxlari indivisa solum, lobis
vacuis, minuta, Isevia, cylindracco-oblonga, castanea : testa membranacea. Albumen semini
conforme, album, farinoso-carnosum. Embryo rectus, axilis, teres, longitudine fere dimidii
albuminis. Cotyledones radicula breviores.

24. Saxifraga tricuspidata. Rottb. in act. Hafn. 10. p. 446, t. 6. n. 21. Gunn,
norv. 2. p. 135. n. 1046. Flor. Dan. 976. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 657. Pers. syn. 1.
p. 490. Sternb. saxifr. p. 54. Pursh. am. 1. p. 312. Giesecke Gi'eenl. in Edin. Encyclop.
Br. in Ross'' voy.ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 192. Don in Linn. soc. trans. 13. p. 440. Richardson
in Franklin's jour. p. 737.

Obs. In planta Insulae Melville, quae statura bumilior, folia radicalia passim et caulina
omnia indivisa.

25. Saxifraga hvperborea, foliis glaberrimis : radicalibus palmatis elongato-petiolatis,
caule lanato subbifloro, bracteis oblongo-linearibus sessilibus, petalis uninerviis, capsidis
semiinferis.

Obs. Proxime accedit S. rivulari Linn, et ejusdem forsan varietas. S. rivularis autem
differt bracteis ambabus saepius, inferioribus semper subpetiolatis obovatis, caule inferne minus
lanato. Ab utraque distincta est S. petiolaris (Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 192.) foliis
omnibus glandulis subsessilibus conspersis ; radicalibus scapum aequantibus v. superantibus,
folio florali lobato, petalis trinerviis.

26. Saxifraga uniflora, foliis radicalibus aggregatis trifidis ; caulinis linearibus in-
divisis distantibus, caule unifloro ovarioque infero viscido ; pube glandulosa brevissima, caly-
cibus obtusis, petalis obovato-oblongis.

Saxifraga caespitosa, Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 192.

BOTANY.

cclxxv

Saxifraga venoga, Haworth enum. saxifr.

Obs. Nimis affinis S. caespitosa?, Linn. ; vix distincta species. .

27. Saxifraga nivalis, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 573. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 645. Pers
syn. l. p. 488. Smith brit. 2. p. 449. Engl. bot. 440. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 113.

u. corymbus multiflorus thyrsoideus, pedunculis inferioribus trifloris.

/3. corymbus simplicissimus pauciflorus. Linn. lapp. t. 2. f. 5.

Obs. A^ai’ietas /3. dimidio minor, pube caiilis et pedicellorum parciore breviore stricta (nec,
ut in a. laxa decumbente lanam brevem referente) ; in utraque petala persistentia. Saxifraga
longiscapa, Don. in Linn. soc. transact. 13. p. 388. a varietate /3. vix differt nisi scapo
longiore.

28. Saxifraga foliolosa, folds radicalibus cuneatis subdentatis, scapis divisis : ramis
apice unifloris infra tectis foliolis nanis fasciculatis, calycibus inferis obovatis, petalorum
laminis cordato-lanceolatis.

Saxifragae stellaris var. Linn. Saxifraga caule nudo simplici foliis dentatis coma foliolosa
Linn. lapp. p. 137. 7. tab. 2. f. 3.

Saxifraga stellaris /3. comosa. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 644.

Obs. Distincta videtur a S. stellari, Linn, (quas in Insula Melville baud observata fuit)
scapo dense foliolato floribus paucisslmis (v. nullis) calycibus obovatis, et praesertim petalorum
aequalium laminis basi cordatis.

29. Saxifraga ckrnua, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 577. Jlor. lapp. n. 172. t. 2. f. 4.
Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 652. Pers. syn. 1. p. 489. Smith brit. 2. p. 453. Engl. bot. t. 664.
Flor. Dan.^9,. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 116. Hooker, scot. p. 130. Gmel. sib. 4. p. 162.
n. 74. Sternb. saxifr. p. 18. t. 12. f. 2. Solcmd. in Phipps’’ voy. p. 202. Br. in Ross'
voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 199. Spitz, pi. in Scoresby's arct. reg. 1. app. p. 75. Don in Linn,
soc. trans. 13. p. 364. Richardson in Frankliri’s journ. p. 737.

Obs. Variatrarius caule ramoso, ramis unifloris, quae S. cernua, Gunn. nor. n. 528. t. 8.f. 2.
et Saxifraga bulbifera.? Flor. Dan. 390. Zoega pi. island, in Olafs. reise 2. p. 236.

30. Chrysosplenium aeternifolium, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 569- Willden. sp. pi.
2. p. 637. Pers. syn. 1. p. 487. Smith brit. 2. p. 453. Engl. bot. 54. Hooker scot.
29.128. Wahlenb. lapp. p.lW. Carpat.p.WQ. Marschall caucas.\. p.Qld. Richard-
son in Franklin's journ. p. 737.

' ROSACEJE.

31. Dryas integrifolia, foliis integerrimis passimque infra medium inciso-crenatis :
venis subtus inconspicuis ; novellis semisiccatisque marginibus revolutis.

Dryas integrifolia, Vahl in act, soc. hist. nat. hafn. vol. 4. par. 2. p. 171. Flor. Dan.

2 m

cclxxvi

APPENDIX.

1216. Pers. syn. 2. y. 57. Br. in Ross’ voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 193. Richardson in
Franklin’s journ. p. 740.

Dryas tenella, Banks"' mss. (fid. specim. a Terra Nova, ubi priraum an. 1766, a D. Banks
detecta) Pursh. am. 1. p. 350.

Obs. Nimis affinis D. octopetalae, quae differt statura saepissime majore, foliis semper lon-
gitudinaliter inciso-crenatis, subtus costatis venis prominulis.

SIEVERSIA.

SiEVERsiA, Willden. in Mag. der gesell. naturf. fr. zu Berlin 5. jahrg. (1811.)
p. 397. charactere emendato.

Char. Gen. decemfidus, laciniis alternis accessoriis. Petala5. ' Stamina 'mde-

finite numerosa. indefinlta, ovulo adscendente. terminales, continui. Ache-

nium stylo toto persistent! aristatum. Embryo erectus.

Habitus nec omnino, Gei, quod differt ^tyY\s genicidatis articulo superiore dissimili
scepiusque deciduo.

Ab utroque genere distinguendum Geuin potentilloides (Coluria nob.) ob Stylmn basi
cum apice ovarii articulatum deciduum, et Achenia (glandulosa) tubb elongato turbinato
calycis inclusa.

Sieversiae species sunt Geum montanum et reptans Linn, radiatum Michaux, Peckii et
triflorum Pursh, glaciale Adams, humilis, congesta et dilatata 7wb. et Geum anemonoides
Willden. sp. pi. quae Dryas pentapetala Linn., cui certe styli terminales nec laterales ut per-
hibet Willdenow in charactere generis Sieversiae, pro hac specie solum ab illo instituti.

S2. SiEVERSii llossii, aristis nudis, foliis radicalibus interrupts pinnatis glabris: pinnis
trilobis ; accessoriis imisque nanis indivisis, caule unifloro subdiphyllo, petalorum venis omni-
bus distinctis.

Desc. Herb a perennis, 2 — 6-uncialis, glabra. Caudex demersus, radiciformis, squamis
scariosis fuscis (petiolorum reliquiis) tectus, infra medietatem fibras descendentes simplices
fibrillosas crassiusculas proferens. Folia radicalia numerosa (4 — 7,) glabriuscula, petiolata,
interrupte pinnata, exstipulata, pinnis circumscriptione ovatis cuneatisve, trifidis vel bifidis
(lobo superiore lateralium deficiente) basi inaequali, inferne in rachin decurrenti, superioribus
approximatis, nanis indivisis interpositis inter medias ; irais ipsis minimis integerrimis. Petioli
infra medium dilatati ibique scariosi, pallide fusci. Scapi ex alis foliorum radicalium vel
squamarum superiorum caudicis demersi, infra nudi, extra medium foliis smpius duobus,
alternis, sessilibus, pinnatifidis, exstipulatis, in statu florescentim (cum scapi folia radicalia vix
asquant) invicem apicique scapi ajeproximatis, in fructiferis folia radicalia aliquoties superan-
tibus, ab invicem et ab apice ssepe distantibus ; teretes, pubescentes, pube descendendo sensim
pai’ciore. Flos solitarius, erectus, ebracteatus. Calyx extus pubescens, decemfidus, tubo
brevi turbinato, laciniis 5 majoribus interioribus, late semiovatis, acutiuscuHs, quinque alternis
dimidio minoribus, ovalibus, petalis opppsitis. Petala 5, obovata, integenima, venosa, aurea,

BOTANY.

cclxxvii

sinubus laclniarum majorum calycis inserta iisque sesquilongiora. Stamina fauci calycis
inserta, indefinita, 30 plura. Filamenta subulata, glabra. Anther ce ovatae, flava3, basi semi-
bifidae, loculis parallelo-approximatis, longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Pollen globosum,
simplex. Ovaria indefinite nnmerosa, receptaculo subcylindraceo imbricato inserta, breve
pedicellata, ab apice pedicellorum solubilia, hirsnta, pilis acutis strictis, monosperma, ovulo
adscendente. Styli terminales, filiformes, subulati, glabri, stricti. Stigmata dHatata, obliqua,
retusa, papulosa.

Obs. This species is named in honour of Lieutenant James Ross, in whose well-preserved
herbarium several plants were found not contained in the other collections.

EXPLICATIO TAB. C.

SiEVEUSiA Rossii. 1, 2. Planta florida, magnitudine naturali. Sequentes auctm. 3 et 4,
flos antice et postice visus. 5. flos petalis et staminibus orbatus. 6. petalum. 7. portio
calycis cum staminibus respondentibus ejusdem basi insertis. 8, 9. stamen antice et postice
visum. 10. pollen 200-ies auctum. 11. pistillum. 12. id. longitudinaliter sectum. 13.
pistilla receptaculo insidentia. 14. receptaculum commune pistillorum cum pedicellis. 15.
achenimn fere matm’um. 16. id. longitudinaliter sectum. 17. id. transverse sectum.
18. semen. 19. embryo.

33. PoTEXTiLLA PULCHELLA, foliis piniiatis bijugis super villosis subter sericeis, foliolis
pinnatifidis pari inferiori minore: lobis omnium lanceolato-linearibus, caulibus paucifloris
(uniflorisve), stylo basi glanduloso-dilatata.

Potentilla pulchella, Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 193.

Potentilla sericea.? Greville in Mem. Wern. soc. 3. p. 430. fide speciminis in herb, groen-
landico D. Jameson.

Obs. P. sericea Linn, facile distinguitur foliis 3 — 5-jugis, et lana elongata receptaculi,
quod in P. pulchella pube brevi ovaria vix aequante instructum. Nostra planta affinitate
propius accedit P. nivem, baud obstante hujus divisione ternata foliorum, qum nunc, rarissime
quamvis, addito foliolorum pari nano similiter pinnata evadunt.

*

34. Potentilla nivea. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 715. Rottb. in act. Hafn. 10. p. 451,
t. 7. n. 22. optima fig. var. a. Willden. sp. pi. 2. p. 1109. Pers. syn. 2. jo. 56.
Wahlenb. lapp.p. 146. Nestler potent, p. 73. Lehman potent, p. 184.

a. folia super villosiuscula viridia, subter niveo-tomentosa.

jS. folia utrinque villosiuscula, paginis concoloribus.

Potentilla nivea /3. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 147.

Potentilla Groenlandica, Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 193.

Potentilla frigida.!^ Greville in Mem. Wern. soc. 3. 430. see exempl. in herbario

D. Jameson.

Potentilla verna. Hooker in Scoresby's greenl. p. 413.

2 m 2

cclxxviii

APPENDIX.

Obs. Polymoi-pha species, cui nimls affinis est Potentilla Vahliana Lehm. potent, p. 172,
quae P. hirsuta Flor. Dan. t. 1390, secundum exemplar Groenlandlum a D. Giesecke; etP.
Jamesoniana Greville in Mem. Wern. soc. 3. p. 417. t. 20. fide exempl. a D. Jameson; nec
diversa videtur P. macrantha Ledeb. secundum specimen ex Oonalaska a D. Fischer.

PAPILIONACE.E.

35. Asteagalus alpinus, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1070. Flor. lapp. p. 218. n. 267.
t. 9. f. 1. Flor. Dan. 51. Gmel. sib. 4. p. 45. n. 59. Pall, astrag. p. 41. t. 32.
Willden. sp. pi. 3. p. 1297. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 190. 1. 12./. 5. (fruct.) Helv. 131. Carpat.
223. Pursh. am. 2. p. 472.

Phaca astragalina, De Cand. Astrag. p. 52. Pers. syn. 2. p. 331. Richardson in Frank-
lirCs journ. jo. 745.

36. OxYTEOPis AECTiCA, subacaulis sericea, stipulis petiolaribus, foliolis oppositis alter-
nisque ovali-oblongis, capitulo subumbellato paucifloro, leguminibus erectis oblongis acu-
minatis calycibusque nigro-pubescentibus.

Desc. Radix lignea, perpendicularis, longissima, crassa, subramosa, multiceps. Caules
brevissimi, dense foliati et basi stipulis villosissimis persistentibus imbricatis tecti. Folia con-
ferta, foliola 11 — 17, novella utrinque villosa sericea, adulta super glabriuscula, ovalia v.
oblonga, saepius obtusa raro acutiuscula. Stipulae membranaceae, infra petiolo adnatae, apicibus
solutis semilanceolatis, acutissimis. Scapi folds longiores, teretes, villosi, villis albo-cinereis,
nunc cinereis nigrisque intermixtis, nunc omnino nigris. Flores majusculi. Capitulum
3 — 5-florum, pedicellis brevissimis. Bractece lineares, acutae, patulfe, calyce breviores, extus
pube nigricante. Calyx villis nigris subadpressis copiosis tectus, dentibus erectis brevibus.
Corolla caeruleo-violacea, calyce duplo longior (9 — 10-lin. {equans.) V exillum obcordatum
lateribus reflexis, lamina basi attenuata absque callis auriculisve. Alee vexillo breviores,
obtuslssimae, apice dilatato oblique retuso, prope basin lateris auriculati intus plica saliente,
hinc auriculo mediocri. Carina alls paulo brevior, obtusa cum mucrone brevi acutiusculo.
Stamina inclusa 1 — 9-fid. antheris uniformibus. Legumen erectum, calyce hinc longitudinaliter
fisso infra auctum, oblongum, acuminatum, sutura superiore intruso intusque septifero, septo
incompleto bipartibill, funiculis adnatis parallelo-striato. Semina reniformia, in singulo loculo
7 — 9, funiculis apice solutis e margine dissepimento quasi ortis.

Obs. Species proxima O. uralensi quae diversa floribus leguminibusque spicatls, foliolis
numerosioribus et semper acutissimis, calycibus leguminibusque cinereis pilis nonnullis atris
pluribus albis.

COMPOSITE.

37. Leontodon palustee, Smith brit. 2. p. 823. Engl. bot. 553, Pers. syn. 2.
p. 367. Hooker scot. p. 227. Flor. Dan. 1708. Richardson in Franklin's journ.
p. 746.

BOTANY.

cclxxix'

Leontodon llvidus, Waldst. et Kitaib. fl. rar. hung. 2. f. 120. t. 115. Willden. sp. pi.
3. p. 1545. Marsch. taur-caucas. 2. p. 246. vol. 3. p. 531.

Leontodon taraxacum? Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 194.

Leontodon taraxacum /3. Wahlenb. carpal, 238. Upsal. p. 257.

Obs. Nimis affinis L. Taraxaco L. videtur.

38. Arnica Montana /3. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1245. Willden. sp. pi. 3. p. 2106.
Pers.syn. 2. p. 453. Wahlenb. lapp. 210.

Arnica angustifolia, Vahl in Flor. Dan. 1524. fide exempl. Greenland, a D. Giesecke.

Doronicum foliis lanceolatis, Linn. lapp. 241. n. 305.

Obs. Planta nostra Groenlandica saepius humilior (2 — 4-uncialis) cum exemplaribus non-
nullis a D. Richardson prope littora marls arctici quadrans vix specie distinguenda ab Arnica
montana a. cujus insuper varietates sunt Arnica plantaginea et fulgens, Pursh. am.

39. Cineraria congesta, capitulo lanato, foliis lineari-llngulatis undulatis, caule sim-
plicissimo.

Desc. Herba 3 — 4-uncialis lanata. Radix fasciculato-fibrosa. Folia radicalia et ima
caulina numerosa indivisa, lingulata, obtusa, undulata, demum glabriuscula, virldia ; caulina
superiora2 — 3, alterna, lana decumbente. Caulis erectus, simplicisslmus, lana implexa tardius
decidua tectus. Anthodia in capitulum terminale subsphaericum ebracteatum dense congesta,
lana copiosa semi-involuta, radiata. Involucrum (calyx communis) simpllci serie polypliyllum,
lana decumbent! copiosa, e villls longis implexis articulatis, dense tectum. Ligulce numerosae,
femineae, lamina oblongo-lineari, Integra, 2 — 3-nervi. Flosculi hermaphroditi perfectl.
Tubus gracilis. Limbus infundibuliformis semiquinqulfidus, decemnervis, lacinils semilan-
ceolatis trinervlis nervis axilibus tenuloribus. Anthercc semi-exsertae basibus muticis, appen-
dicibus apicis linearibus acutis. Ovaria glabra, subcylindracea. Stigmata intus canaliculata
apice subtruncata. P appus sessilis, fillformis, albus, radiis numerosls longitudinaliter den-
ticulatis.

Obs. Distincta species videtur, attamen non longe distat a C. palustri statura et inflorescentia
insigniter variabili.

40. Tussilago corymbosa, corymbo femlneo laxo paucifloro: corollulis ligularibus
nervosis ; masculo congesto, foliis cordatis slnuatls inasqualiter dentatis subtus tomentosis.

Desc. repens. Folia radicalia longius petiolata, cordata, nunc sagittato-cordata,

sinuata, saspius ad nunc ad 1 fere radii, lobis iniequaliter dentatis, dentibus mucronulo eglan-
duloso terminatis, adulta super glabra cum tomento aliquo in nervis venisque primariis, sub-
ter lana brevi alba implexa, diametro sesquiunciali usque 2| unclas mquanti. Scapi 4 — 8-un-
ciales, advdti tomento parco obsitl, bracteis (petiolls dilatatis) amplexicaulibus, saspius foliolo
nano dentato terminatis. Anthodia polygamo-dioica. Mas. Corymbus coarctatus pauciflorus :
anthodiis radiatis : ligulis femineis, lamina oblonga : Jlosculis hennaphrodito-masculis, in-

cclxxx

APPENDI X.

fundlbuliformlbus, stlgmatlbus hispldis, incrassatis, exsertis. Fem. Corymbus simplex, 5 — 8-
floras ; pedunculi involucro longiores, bracteis nonnullis linearibus acuminatis pills articulatis
pubescentes. Involucrum (calyx communis) simplici serie polyphyUum, foliolis acutis, extus
pubescentlbus, pills articulatis brevibus. Corolluloi omnes ligulatae, femlnefe, prfeter 2 — 3
centrales, hermapbrodito-masculas. involucro longiores, ligula 2 — 3-nervi Indivisae,

stigmatibus patulis, sty 11s extra tidium hispidulis.

Obs. Proxima species T. frigidte, quas dlffert praesertim thyrso femineo multifloro congesto
demum fastigiato, masculo laxiore, foliis minus alte slnuatis.

41. Antexnaria alpina, Br. in Linn. soc. transact. 12. p. 123.

Gnaphalium alplnum. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1199. lapp. n. 301. Willden sp. pi. 3.
p. 1883. Pers. syn. 2. p. 421. Wahlenb. lapp. 202. Helv. p. 149. Carpat. in obs. ad.
p. 258. Pursh. am. 2. p. 525. Richardson in Franklin's journ. p. 747.

Obs. Planta feminea tantum in Melville Island lecta ; mascula a nobis nondum visa (nisi
bujus forsan varietas pusdla ab Oonalaska,) et nuUibi, quantum scio, observata !

CAMPANULACEdE.

42. Campanula unifloua, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 231. flor. lapp. n. 85. t. 9. f. 5. 6.
Rottb. in act. hafn. 10. p. 432. t. 6. n. 19. Willden. sp. pi. 1. p. 890. Pers. syn. 1.
p. 188. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 63. Flor. Dan. 1512. Svensk bot. 526. Richardson in
Franklin's journ. p. 733.

ERICINJi].

43. Andromeda tetragona, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 563. lapp. n. 166. t. 1. f. 4.
Willden. sp. pi. 2. p.607. Pei's. syn. 1. p. 480. Flor. Dan. 1030. Pall. ross. 2. p. 56,
t. 73. f. 4. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 200. Br. spitzb. pi. in Scoresby's arct. reg. 1. append,
p. 75. Ross' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 192. Richardson in Franklin's journ. p. 737.

SCROPHULARIN^.

44. Pedicularis arctica, caule simplici lanato, foliis plnnatlfidis lobis sub-ovatls
dentato-incisis : adultis glabris ; caulinis petlolo dilatato, calycibus quinquifidis lanatis,
galea obtusa truncata bidentata, filamentis longioribus hirsutis.

Desc. Radix fasciculata, fibris crassis carnosis. Caulis simplex, foliatus, 2-3-uncialis,
lana alba implexa tardlus nee omnino decidua. Folia cu'cumscriptione linearia, pinnatifida ;
lobis sjepius approximatis, dentatls, primo lanata, adulta glabriuscula ; petioli omnium, radi-
callum prfEcipue, lanatl. Spica multiflora, densa, florida sesquiuncialis, fructifera 2-3-
uncialis : bractecc foliacem, pinnatifida?. Calyx lanatus, lana, copiosa, alba, implexa, persis-

BOTANY.

cclxxxi

tenti, semiquinquifidus, laciniis ineequalibus, semilanceolatis, integeriimis, vel obsoletissime
dentatis. Corolla purpurea, glaberrima : galea leviter falcata, obtusa, antice apice oblique
truncata et ad truncaturje basin utrinque dente unico acuto brevi quandoque brevissuno.
Stamina inclusa : Filamenta duo longiora extra medium hirsuta, duo breviora longitudinaliter
glabra : Antherce uniformes, imberbes, basi bifidae. Stigma subcapitatum, ssepius exsertum.
Capsula calyce persistenti duplo longior, ovata, acuminata, inaequilatera, margine inferiore
rectiusculo superiore modice arcuato, bdocularis, bivalvis, valvis medio septigeris, septi dimidio
inferiori placentifero. Semina oblonga, teretiuscula, altero latere margine perangusto aucta,
utraque extremitate areola nigricanti notata.

Ohs. Species proxiiua P. sudeticas lFillden.3. p. pi. 3. p. 209. qua? differt statura majore,
caule glabro, foliorum lobis linearibus inciso-pinnatifidis ; caulinis petiolo baud ddatato, coroUae
labio inferiore manifeste dentato. P. sudetica Richardson in Franklin's jour. p. 742. a
sudetica vera vix diversa est nisi corollee labio superiore breviore, denticulo longiore, caule sub-
unifolio nec species distincta videtur.

POLYGONEiE.

45. Polygonum viviparum, Linn, sp.pl. ed. '2.p. 516. fl. lapp. n. 152. Gmel. sib. 2.
jjo. 44. w. 34. 7./. 2. IVillden. sp. pl.2. p.^4A. Pers. syn.l. p.4i33. Smith brit. 1. p.

428. Engl. bot. 669. Fl. Lond. new ser. 1. t. 81. Wahlenb. lapp. 99. Flor. Dan. 13.
Svensk. bot. 336. Marsch. taur-caucas. 1. p. 301. Pursh. am. 1. p. 271. Giesecke
Greenl. in Edin. encyclop. Hooker in Scoresby's greenl.p. 410. Richardson in Franklin's
journ. p. 737.

Natter Wurtz, Marten's Spitzb. lib. 3. cap. 7. 1. 1, a.

OXYIIIA.

OxYRiA, Hill. veg. syst. 10. j?. 24. (genus omnino artificiale, Hill 1. c.) DeCand. fl.
franc. 3. p. 379. (Rumicis subgenus). Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 192. (genus dis-
tinctum). Campdera rumex, p. 153. Hooker Scot. p. 99.

Char. Gex. Perianthium tetrapbyllum (duplici serie.) Stamina 6. Styli 2. Stigmata
penicillata. Achenium lenticulare, membranaceum, utrinque alatum, periantliio infra cinc-
tum. Embryo centralis.

Obs. Genus pi’opius accedens Rheo quam Rumici, ab utroque satis distinctum.

A Rheo differt numero binario perianthii et stylorum, stigmatibus penicillatis, (quse in
Rheo capitata sublobata,) et textura achenii : convenit numero proportionali et situ staminum
(quae geminatim nempe foliolis exterioribus et solitarie interioribus perianthii opposita) peri-
carpio semidenudato alato, et embryone centrali.

Rumex ab Oxyria diversus est numero ternario omnium partium floris, situ staminum, qum
sex tantum et geminatim foliolis exterioribus perianthii opposita, fructu nucamentaceo aptero, fo-
liolis interioribus mutatis perianthii tecto, embryone laterali : convenit fere stigmatum divisione,

Ovuli insertionem et Radiculte embryonis si turn inter notas genericas baud introduxi :

cclxxxii

APPENDIX.

I

Semen enim erectum cum Embryone inverse uti character totius ordinis, (Incluso certe Calli-
gono contra assertionem Campderae 1. c.) enndem a Chenopodeis optime distinguens in frodr.
flor. nov. holl. p. 419. primus proposui. Inter ordines apetalos similem structuram seminis in
Urticeis et Piperaceis, aliis notis distinguendis, obtinet : dum Embryo inversus cum ovulo pen-
dulo cliaracterem essentialem Chloranthearum (Br. in Bot. magaz. 2190. nov. 1820.)
effbrmat.

46. OxYRiA RENiFORMis, Hookef scot. p. 111. Scoresby's greenl. p. 410. Oxyria
digyna, Campd. rumex, p. 155.

Rheum digynum. Wahlenb. lapp. 101. tab. fructus. Helv. p. 74. Carpat. 114.

Rumex digynus, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 480. Jl. lapjp. n- 132. obs. (3. Willden. sp. pi. 2.
^.258. Pers. syn.\.p.^^5. Smith brit. l.p. Eng. bot. Flor. Dan. 1^.

47. Salix arctica, ovariis subsessilibus tomentosis, stigmati quadrifido stylum sub-
aequante, squamis orbiculato-obovatis, foliis integerrimis ovalibus obovatisve : adultis super
glabris subter villosiusculis.

Salix arctica, Br. in Boss' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p)- 194. Richardson in Franklin's journ.
p. 752.

Salix n. 37. Hooker in Scoresby's greenl. y).414.* secundum specim. a D. Scoresby.

Salix, Greville in Mem. IVern. soc. 3. p. 432. fide speciiu. in herb, greenl. D. Jameson.

Desc. Frutex depressiis ; radice lignea crassa longa. Rami decumbentes, floriferi omnes
et sterdium nonnulli adscendentes, adulti glabri. Folia sparsa, petiolata, elliptico-obovata,
V. obovata, integerrima, obtusa, quandoque retusa, novella super glabra, subter villis longis
laxis decumbentibus, adulta utrinque glabra, venis subter paulo eminentibus venulis anastomo-
zantibus. Amenta utriusque sexus ramos breves villosos foliates terminantes. Squamae orbi-
culato-obovatae saepe retusa, fusco-nigricantes, villosae. Masc. 8-10-lin. longa, densa. Sta-
mina 2-3, forsan saepius 3, filamentis distinctis. Squamulce (Nect.) duae, interiore paulo ma-
jore, utraque apice incrassato. Fern. Squamtda unica, interior. Ovarium brevissime pedi-
cellatum, pedicello diametrum transversum capsuleo vix ajquante, dense tomentosum, cinereum.
Stylus longitudine varians nunc stigmata aequans, nunc fere dimidio brevior.

MONOCOTYLEDONES.

JUNCEJE.

48. JUNCUS BIGLUMIS. Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 467. Montin in Amaen. acad. ^.p. 266.
t. 3. f. 3. Flor. Dan. 120. Zoeg. pi. island, in Olafs. reise 2. p. 235. Vahl in act. soc.
hist. nat. hafn.2. par. 1.^. 38. Willden. sp.pl. 2. p. Sid. Pers.syn. \. p. 385. Smith brit.
1. p. 382 Engl. bot. 898. Bicheno in Linn. soc. transact. 12. y?. 320. Hooker scot. p. 106.

BOTANY.

tclxxxiii

49. Ltjzula hypeuborEx\, spiels multlflons subumbellatis pedunculatis sessllibusque
(nunc omnibus sessillbus), bractea umbellag foliacea; partialibus omnibus flmbriatis, capsulis
obtusis perianthla acuta subaequantlbus, caruncula basilari seminis obsoieta, foliis planis.

Luzula campestris, Br. spitzb.pl. in Scoresby's arct. reg. 1. append, p. 75.

Juncus arcuatus, Hooker in Scoresby's greenl. p. 410. secund exempl. a D. Scoresby.

Juncus campestris, Soland. in Phipps' voy. p. 201. fide exempl. in Herb. Banks.

Obs. Vix dlstincta species, et potius ad L. campestrern mire variantem, quam ad L.
arcuatani referenda ; prtesertim ob bracteam umbelloe sgepissime, non vero semper, foliaceam,
et folia plana. L. arcuatse /3. {Wahlenb. lapp. p. 88. cujus fig. in Flor. Dan. 1386. sed
exel., syn. Villars,) tamen accedit, inflorescentla, spicis multifloris, longius pedunculatis, quan-
doque etlam arcuato-recurvis, bractea umbellae nunc, rarissime quamvis, squamacea, par-
tialibus omnibus fimbriatis, et caruncula seminis obsoieta. Haec autem forsan distincta a L.
arcuata «. Wahlenb. lapp. p>- 87. t. 4. Hooker fior. lond. n. ser. 1. 151. cui spicae longius
pedunculate pauclflore, et semlna nl fallor absque caruncula.

In Luzulis omnibus, quas examinl subjeci, excepta L. pilosa, observavi funiculum um-
bilicalem e fills spiralibus (decompositione partial! funiculi denudatis ?) composltum.

CYBER ACE/E.

50. Carex misaxdra, spicis (4 — 6) pedunculatis ovallbus pendulls : termlnali basi ma.s-
cula; reliquis femineis, fructibus lanceolatis acuminatis bidentatis margine denticulatis squama
ovali longioribus, stigmatibus 2-3.

Desc. (exemplarium quatuor incompletorum cum spicis fructiferls et portlone cvdml, in lier-
bario D. Ross.) Folium suprenium breve, lineare, marglnibus longitudinaliter denticulatis.
Spica V. umbellatae, v. alternae, fructlferae ovales v. oblonge pendule, pedunculis viridibus,
laxis, angulatls, spica longioribus. Bractea umbellae communis vaginans, basi atro-fusca, supra
viridls in follmn breve subulato-lineare, planum, marglnibus denticulato-asperls producta,
includens nonnullas partiales, quarum ima communi subsimilis, follolo breviore terminata, nunc
exserta. Squama: ovales, obtusiusculte, laeves, glabrae, nigro-fusce aplce limbo angusto albo.
Fructus circumscriptlone lanceolatus, acumlnatus, basi attenuata, fusco-ater, ore ipso alblcanti
emarginato, marglnibus acumlnis et dlmidii superloris denticulatis, caeterum levis. Ache-
nium intra cupulam breve pedicellatum, obovatum, ventre piano, dorso dum stigmata duo
modice convexo dum tria angulato.

Obs. Nimis affinis C. fuliginosse Sternb. et Floppe in act. soc. bot. Ratisb. 1. p. 159. t. 3.
vix distincta species.

51. Carex concolor, spicis sexu distinctls : mascula unlca ; femineis 2-3 erectis sub-
sessilibus, squamis omnibus obtusis axi subconcolori, bracteisbasl auriculatis, capsulis laevibus
ovalibus mucronulo brevissimo integerrimo, stigmatibus 2, culmis laevibus.

clxxxiv

APPENDIX.

Obs. C. caespitosse proxima et vix difFert nisi statura minori (3-4; unciaM) squamis' (nigro-
spadiceis) axi saepius marginibus semper concoloribus, folds utrinque viridibus et culmis
laevibus. An revera distincta species ?

5£. EaiopHouuM capitatum, Host gram, austr. 1. p. 30. t. 38. Schrad. germ. 1.
p. 151. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 18. Smith comp. ed. 2. p. 11. Engl. hot. 2387. Hooker
scot. p. 20.

53. Ekiophoeum angustifolium, Willden. sp. pi 1. p. 313. Smith brit. 1. p. 59.
Engl. hot. 564. Schrad. germ. 1. p. 153. Hooker scot.p. 21.

Eriophorum polystachion, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 18.

Obs. Plantae nosti-ae, quasi mediae inter E. angustifobum et polystachyon forsan ab
utroque distinctae, duae varietates adsunt.

a. pedunculis laevibus.

iS. pedunculis scabris, denticulis crebris minutis.

Hoec ab E. gracde, Roth catalect. 2. add. et Wahlenb. lapp. p. 19. fid. exempl. ab ipsis
auctoribus in Herb. Banks., certe diversa, statura humiliori, foliis latioribus, squamis enerviis
omniuo nigricantibus acutioribus, et acheniis oblongo-obovatis.

GllAMINEiE.

54. Alopecurus alpixus, spica ovata, arista periantbii glumam sericeam lateribus villo-
.sissimis subaequante, vagina suprema ventricosa fobo suo piano lanceolato triplo longiore.

Alopecurus alpinus, Smith brit. 3. p. 1386. Engl. bot. 1126 .Hooker scot. p. 22. Roem.
et Schul. syst. 2. p. 272. Br. in Ross'' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 191. Hooker in Scoresby's greenl.
410. Richardson in FranklirCs journ. p. 731.

Alopecurus ovatus, Knapp gram. brit. 15. Hornem. in Flor. Dan. 1565.

Alopecurus antarcticus, Giesecke greenl. in Brewster's edin. encyclop.

Obs. Species (quam primus in Scotiae monte Loch ny Gaar anno 1794 legi) variat culmo,
qui saepius adscendens, erecto, spica oblongo-cybndracea, arista nunc gluma duplo longiore,
rarius milla.

A. antarcticus, Vahl symb. 2. p. 18. JVillden. sp. pi. I.p. Qol. ab A. alpino dilfert spica
saepius cybndracea, arista glumam bis superante, fobo supremo linear! apice attenuato vagi-
nam suam superante v. aequante.

A. pratensis L. distinguitur spica cybndracea, glumis acutis latere tantum vblosiuscubs, arista
glumis duplo longiore, vagina suprema laxiuscule cybndracea folium suum bneare niultoties
superante.

BOTANY.

Cclxxxv

PHIPPSIA.

Phippsla (subgenus Vilfte) Trinius in Spreng. neue entdeck. 9,.p. 37.

Chae. Gen. Gluma uniflora, abbreviata, Insequivalvis. Perianthium mutlcum, obtusum,
imberbe ; valvula superiore nervis sursum divergentibus. Lodicula S. &tam. 1-3. Stig~
mata 2, sessilia. Caryopsis libera, teres, exsulca.

Gramen pusillum, aquaticum v. in inundatis nascens. Culmi basi divisi. Folia plana ;
vagina integra, ipso apice tantum fisso. Panicula coarctata, ramis semiverticillatis. Gluniae
enerves, inf trior e minori. Stamina 1-3. SiigxaaXapei'sistentia.

Obs. E graminibus unifloris proxime accedit Vilfae et Colpodio, affinitatem habet etiaiu
quandam cum Sclimidtia Trattin, (Coleanthus Roem. et Sch. syst. 2. p. 11.) cui certe gluma
nulla, et perianthium bivalve, probante valvula superiore dinervi.

Inter genera locustis bifloris Phippsia affinis est Catabrosse, conveniens glumis abbreviatis,
perianthiis obtusis concavis et foliorum vaginis apice tantum fisso : differt locustis unifloris,
caryopside tereti, nec lateraliter compressa.

' 55. PHIPPSIA ALGIDA.

Agrostis algida, Soland. in Phipps'' voy. p. 200. cum descriptione accurata. Wahlenb.
lapp. p. 25. t. 1. ubi perianthium pro gluma, omnino praetervisa, depictum, et lodicula, per-
peram indivisa et aucta, pro perianthio univalvi. Flor. Dan. 1505. structuram eandem ex-
hibens ac in Wahlenb. 1. c. Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 191. (Gramen sui generis.)

Trichodium algidum, Svensk bot. 545. f. 2. ab ic. Walilenb. mutuata. Roem. et Sch.
syst. 2. p. 283.

Desc. Gramen biunciale, glaberrimum, cmspitosum. Culmi ipsa basi divisi ibique va-
ginis scariosis tecti. Folia linearia, obtusiuscula, Imvia : ligula brevis, obtusissuna, indivisa :
vagina laxiuscula, integra, ipso apice tantum fisso. Panicula coarctata, ramis semiverticillatis,
paucifloris, laevibus. Locustce uniflorse. Gluma nana, bivalvis, insequalis, valvulse muticae,
obtusiusculae, concavae, baud carinatae, integrae, membranaceae ; inferior minor, enervis ; supe-
rior plus duplo major, ipso perianthio triplo circiter brevior, obsolete uninervis ; ambae saspis-
sime post lapsum perianthii cum rachide persistentes, inferiore quandoque decidua. Perian-
thium intra glumam brevissime pedicellatum : valvula inferior concava, ovato-lanceolata, tri-
nervis, nervorum dimidio mferiore hispidulo ; superior ejusdem fere longitudinis et latitudinis
sed diversae figurae, obtusa, 3-4-dentata, dinervis, nervis hispidulis a basi sursum paulo diver-
gentibus, ipsa basi sub-approximatis. Lodiculce 2, subovatae, membranaceae, indivisae, glabrae.
Stamina 1-3. Stigmata 2, sessilia, longa, hyalina, ramulis simplicibus. Caryopsis ovali-
oblonga, teres, exsulca, stigmatibus emarcidis diu coronata. Embryo caryopside quadruple
brevior.

2 n 2

clxxxvi

APPENDIX.

Obs. HfEc e speclminibus a Melville Island ; species autem variat perianthii nervis leevibus,
staminibus 2, et quandoque unico, nervo alteri valvulee superioris perianthii opposite.

In Terra Tschutski a Dav. Nelson, in tertio it. Cook lecta fuit varietas (.?) insignis, duplo
major, culmis ramosis foliis laxioribus aliisque notis diversa : vix species distincta.

K

COLPODIUM.

Col])odium. Trin. agrost. p. 119. f. 7. Subgenns Vilfse Trin. in Spreng, neue entdeck.
2.p. 37.

Char. Gen. Gluma uniflora, subajquivalvis, inutica. Perianthium gluma longius, submuti-
cum, obtusum, apice scarioso ; valvulis subaequalibus, integerrimis, mperiore exserta, dinervi,
lateribus parallelis. Lodicula 2. Styli 2. Stigmata plumosa. Caryopsis.

Gramen glabrum. Culini erecti v. adscendentes. Folia plana, ligula indivisa imberbi
folio latiore, vagina longitudinaliter fissa. Fanicula coarctata, ramis semiverticillatis. Lo-
custa? oblonga, glabriusculcs cum v. absque rudimento, s<j:pius setuliformi, Jiosculi
secundi.

Obs. Gramen hocce habitu fere peculiari, primo intuitu Poae propius accedit quam
Agrostidi s. VLLfae, relationem quodammodo etiani cum Dupontia et Descliampsia habere videtur.
Caryopside ignota autem genus baud stabilitum, et de ejusdem affinitate cum Colpodii spe-
ciebus Trinii, praesertim C. Steveni et compresso, incertus siun.

56. CoLPODiuii LATiFOLiuM, pauicula coarctata lanceolata, foliis planis lato-linearibus.

Agrostis paradoxa, Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 192.

Desc., Gramen robustum, spithameum — pedale, glabrum. Culmus e basi decumbent! v.
radicanti adscendens, nunc erectus, teres, laevis, foliatus, basi vaginis scariosis tectus. Folia
plana, lineari-lanceata, acuta, sfricta, utrinque marginibusque retrorsum scabris : vagince sca-
briuscula?, ad basin usque fissae, suprema folio proprio longior: ligula obtusa, imberbis, erosa,'
denticulata, folio latior. Panicula coarctata, angusto-lanceolata, fusco-purpurea, perianthi-
orum apicibus albis, sesquiuncialis — ^biuncialis, ramis brevibus, semiverticillatis, appressis,'
inferioribus demum modice paten tibus, pedunculis pedicellisque pauci-denticulatis, strictis,'
apice vix dilatato cumlocusta continuo. Gluma uniflora, bivalvis, mutica, herbaceo-membra-
nacea, glabra, valvulis suboppositis, concavis vix carinatis, obtusiusculis v. acutis, integris
semitrinerviis, inferiore paulo breviore, nervis lateralibus brevissimis, superiore acutiore, nervis
lateralibus magis manifestis sed longe infra apicem evanescentibus. Perianthium intra
glumam, qua baud duplo longius, brevissime pedicellatum, cum pedicello crasso articulatura,'
basi obliqua, herbaceo-membranaceum, texturafere glumse, muticum, per lentem pube brevis-
sima conspersum, intra glumam e majore parte viride, supra eandem fusco-purpureum, apice
scarioso albicanti. V ahndcc concave, textui’a omnino similes, longitudine subeequales, inferior
nervo central! manifesto smpius apicem muticum attingenti, nunc in setulam dorsalem brevis-

botany. clxxxvii

simam altitudinem valvulae subjequantem desinente, lateralibus utrinque duobus obsoletis, infra
apicem prorsus evanescentibus ; superior obtusior, integerrima, dorso angusto planiusculo vel
leviter conVexo, lineari, dinervi, nervis parallelis, tenuibus, nudis, lateribus dorso aliquotles
latioribus, parallelis, marginibus nudis. Lodiculre duas, subcollaterales, meinbranaceee, se-
mibifidse, dentibus acutis, imberbes, longitudine ovarii. Stamina 3, fllamentis capilla-
ribus, antheris fusco-stramineis, utrinque bifidis. Ovarium ovatum, acutum, glabrum, ex-
sulcum. Styli brevissimi, approximati, vix manifesti. Stigmata hyalina, dense plumosa,
apicibus acutis.

Obs. In exemplaribus plerisque nullum certe rudimentum flosculi secundi, quod tamen in
nonnullis a Melville Island atque in exemplarl a Possession Bay adest, setuliforme, hispidulum ;
etin specimine unico a Mehnlle Island locustas nonnullas bifloras flosculo secundo pediceUato
perfecto observavi.

57. PoA ANGUSTATA, panicula simplici coarctata lineari-lanceolata, locustis 4-5-floris,
gluma inferiore dimidio minore, perianthiis apice erosis : valvula inferiore basi elanata lateri-
bus glabriusculis, foliis angusto-linearibus.

Desc. Gramen 4-6-unciale, glabrum, erectum ; radice fibrosa. Culmi foliati, basi quan-
doque divisi, laeves. Folia angusto-linearia, plana, acuta, glabra, laevia ; vagina, subcylin-
draceae, laeves, suprema folio propi'io longior, omnes ipsa basi integra ; ligula subquadrata tarn
lata quam longa, apice dentato dente medio paulo longiore. Panicula erecta, angustata, cir-
cumscriptione lineari-lanceolata, ramis paucifloris, pcdicellis denticulatis, strictis, viridibus,
apice paulo dilatato, cum locusta baud omnino continuo. Locustce oblongae, coloratae, saepius
quadriflorae- Gluma hyalinae, glaberrimae, uninerviae, cum pedicellis persistentes, valvula
inferiore fere dimidio minore ; superiore duplo latiore et fere duplo longiore, obtusiore, peri-
anthio dimidio circiter breviore, nervis lateralibus obsoletis. Perianthia separatim decidentia,
rachi locustae glabra ; valvula inferior oblonga, concava, acutiuscula, apice scarioso eroso-
denticulato, quinquinervis, lateribus infra medium pube rara in nervis extimis crebriore in-
structis, ipsa basi absque lana implexa ; superior paulo brevior, dinervis, nervis viridibus, den-
ticulatis, lateribus complicatis. Lodicula 2, hyalinae, imberbes, semibifldae. Stamina 3.

58. PoA ABBEEViATA, panicula simplicissima coarctata subovata, locustis 4-5-floris,
glumae valvulis subeequalibus acutissimis perianthia basi lanata lateribus pubescentia aequanti-
bus, foliis involuto-setaceis.

Desc. Gramen 3-4-unciale. Culmi foliati, basi saepe divisi, la;ves. Folia involuta,
subsetacea, retrorsum scabra, vagina fere ad basin usque fissae, cylindraceae. Panicula vix
semuncialis, ramis alternis, subbifloris, strictis, laevibus, vix denticulatis. Locusta oblongae,
coloratae. Gluma acutissimse, valvulis longitudine subaequalibus, carlnatis, glaberrimis, infe-
riore manifeste arigustiore, paululum breviore, uninervi ; superiore basi trinervi. Perianthia
glumas paulo superantia ; valvula inferior ipsa basi lana implexa parca instructa, carina a basi
ad duas tertias partes longitudinis sericea, linea pariter sericea utrique margin! approximata,

clxxxviii

appendix.

a basi ad eandem fere altitudinem attingenti, intersticlis pubescentibus svibsericeis ; superior
dinervis, nervis pectinatim denticulatis, lateribus induplicatis latiusculis. Lodicula
Stamina 3, antheris stramineis. Ovarium imberbe. Stigmata 2, subsessilia, plumosa,
hyalina.

59. PoA ARCTICA, paniciila effusa ; ramis paucifloris caplllaiibus laevibus locustisque colo-
ratis ovatls 3-4-floris, glumis subsequalibus, perianthli valvula inferiore basi lanata carina
lineaque submai’ginali sericeis : interstlciis pubescentibus, foliis linearibus : ligula subquadi’ata
erosa.

Poalaxa, Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 192.. Hooker in Scoresby's ggeenl. pj. 410. non
Willdenovii.

Desc. Gramen 5-8-pollicare. Culmi erecti v. adscendentes, basi quandoque divisi, gra-
cUes, laeves, foliati. Folia radicalia angusto-linearia, canaliculata, culmo aliquoties breviora ;
culmea paulo latiora, plana, marginibus laevibus, denticulis obsoletissimis : vagina strictae,
striatae, laeves, ipsa basi integra ; ligula subquadrata, nunc paulo longior quam lata, apice
eroso-inciso. Panicula saepius effusa, nunc rara, nunc minus effusa, rarissime sub-
coarctata, radii raniisque fuscis, ramis S-4, semiverticillatis, 1-2-floris, capillaribus,
laevibus. Locusta ovatae v. oblongo-ovatae, fusco-purpureae, apicibus valvularum strami-
neo-fuscis ipsoque margine albo, 3-4-flor8P, cum rudimento minuto scarioso longius pedicellato
quarti v. quinti ; radii articulatim solubili, per lenteni scabriuscula. Glumce subaequivalves, ca-
rinatae, acutae, fusco-purpureae, glaberriniae, carina extra medium obsoletissime denticulata ;
inferiore angustiore, nervis lateralibus obsoletioribus, altero obsoletissimo ■; superiore vix lon-
giore, nervis lateralibus nianifestioribus. Perianthii valvula inferior oblonga, subcarinata,
ipsa basi v. potius ex apice articuli raclieos lana longa contortuplicata flosculos subnectenti,
carina a basi ad duas tertias partes longitudinis sericea, villis brevibus, supra obsoletissime
denticulata, lateralibus a basi ad eandem circiter altitudinem ac portio sericea carinae pubescen-
tibus, linea intraniarginali sericea : valvula superior inferiore paulo brevior, dinervis, nervis
viridibus, pectinato-ciliatis pilis brevibus, lateribus Induplicatis axin fere attingentibus.
Lodiculce 2, cuneiformes, semiblfidse dentibus acutis, hyalinae, imberbes, ovario breviores.
Stamina 3, antlieris stramineis. Ovarium oblongum, imberbe. Styli 2, brevissimi. Stig~
mata liyallna, laxe plumosa ramis denticulatis .

Obs. Exemplaria nonnuUa statura majore, locustis acutiorlbus, glumis acumlnatis periantliia
inferiora subsequantibus, foliis latioribus.

Poa laxa Willden. sp. pi. 1. p. 386., quam ex eodem monte Silesise ubi a b. Haenke detecta
fuit liabeo a D. Trevirano conimunicatam, differt statura minore, panicula coarctata, radii
ramisque paniculse et glumis infra medium viridibus, periantliiis acutiorlbus lana baseos
parciore ; locustas radii Isevi.

Poa flexuosa Host gram, austr. 4. p. 15 .t. 26. quse slmilis videtur P. arcticse panicula effusa
et locustee colore figura et pubescentla, differt paniculse radii ramisque viridibus magis divisis
scabris, glumarum carlnis longitudinaliter denticulatis.

BOTANY.

clxxxix

60. Festttca BUEVIFOLIA, racemo subslmplici erecto, llosciilis teretibus supra scabriusculis
arista duplo longioribus, fobis setaceis vaginisque lasvibus : culmeo supremo multoties breviore
vagina sua laxiuscula.

Obs. Facies et statura fei’e F. ovinae inter quam et F. Halleri media; priori forsan nimis
affinis.

61. Festuca vivipaea.

Obs. Nullam observationem habeo de exemplari unico Festucm cujusdam vivqaarfE olim
viso in herbario D. Sabine, ulterius examinando.

PLEUROPOGON.

Chae. Gen. Locustee. multiflorae, cylindraceae. Glumct abbreviata, inaequivalvis, mutica.
Perianthii valvula inferior mutica, obtusa, concava, nervosa, apice scarioso : superior
nervo utroque lateraliter biseto ! LodicMce distinctae. Styli 2. Stigmata plumosa. Caryopsis
libera, lateribus compressis.

Gramen elegans. Folia plana, angusta, vagina integra, ipso apice tantum fisso. Ra-
cemus simplex, locustis cernuis, purpureis, nitentibus. Gluma valvula inferiore acuta^
superiore latiore obtusa. Perianthia distincta, valvula inferiore 5-1-nervi, superiore
lanceolata emarginata, pari superiore setarum brevissimo.

Obs. Genus Glyceriae proximura, quacum locustis teretibus, periantliiis obtusissimis et
vaginis foliorum integris convenit ; differt preesertim setis lateralibus nervorum valvulae supe-
rioris perianthii, lodiculis distinctis, stigmatibus baud decompositis, caryopside lateraliter
compressa et inflorescentia.

Character fere essentialis in nervis valvulee superioris perianthii latere setigeris ; analoga
structura enim vix, quantum scio, in ullo alio gramme obtinet nisi in Uniola latifolia Mich, am.,
ubi equidem nuUis aliis diflerentiis comitata pro charactere specifico tantum habenda.

62. PLEUROPOGON SxiBINII— Tab. D.

Desc. Gramen 3-unclale usque spithameum, glabrum. Culmi erectl, follati, striati, leeves,
simplices. Folia radicalia angustiora, longiora ; culniea liiiearla, plana, brevia, laevia : va-
gince paulo compressse, striatae, glabrae, l^ves, fere ad apiceui integrfe, ipso apice fisso, mar-
ginlbus scarlosis, suprema folio proprlo longior : ligula brevisslraa, i-otundata, emarginata.
Spica racemosa, simplicissima, rachi striato-angulata, leevi, vlridi, pedunculis lateralibus glu-
mam vix superantlbus, recurvis, laevibus, indivisis, al terms, dlstantibus. Locusttx subcylin-
draceae, cernuae v. pendulae, semunciales, purpureae, nitidae, per lentem tenuissime pubescentes.
Gluma bivalvis, nana, inaequalis, membranacea, purpurea, mutica ; valvula inferiore ovata.

cxc

APPENDIX.

acuta ; superiore obovata, obtusissima, inferiore duplo latlore, paulo longiore. Perianthia
alterna, distincta. Valvula inferior obovato-oblonga, obtusissima, concava, quinquinervis,
extus pube brevissima appressa conspersa, apice marginibusque ab apice ad medium albis,
scariosis, nervis omnibus infra apicem desinentibus, medio in mucronulum brevissimum, mar-
ginem valvulae vix attingentem producto. Valvula .JMpen'or longitudine fere inferioris, ma-
nifeste angustior, elliptico-lanceolata, apice profunde emarginato, lateribus induplicatis,
dinervis, nervis brevissime ciliatis, singulis bisetis, setis lateralibus, per paria oppositis, duoa
inferiores infra medium valvulse ortse, subulato-filiformes, strictae, modice patentes, den-
ticulatae, longitudine circiter dimidii totius valvulae ; du(e superiores paulo supra medium
valvulae ortum ducentes, brevissimae, denticulatae, mucroniformes, altera quandoque obsoleta.
hodiculce 2, collaterales, approximatae, brevissimae, truncatae, basi leviter cohaerentes, sed
absque laesione separandae. Stamina 3, filamentis capiEaribus, antheris linearibus utrinque
semibifidis. Ovarium ovatum, imberbe. Styli 2, glabri. Stigmata laxe plumosa, byalina,
ramis denticulatis, superioribus vix brevioribus. Caryopsis libera, lateraliter compressa,
ventre angusto-lineari, leviter canaliculato, axi longitudinaliter saturatiore. Embryo cary-
opside triple brevier.

Obs. Duplex varietas.

a. elatior, subspithamea, antheris stramlnels. Tab. D. f. 1 — 7.

/3. 3-4-uncialis, antheris purpurels. Tab. D. f. 8 — 10.

The specific name is given in honour of Captain Edward Sabine, in whose herbarium, the
most extensive formed in the voyage, numerous specimens were found of both varieties
of this remarkable grass.

EXPLICATIO Tabul.e D.

Pleuropogon Sabinii. 1. Varietatis «. planta magnltudine naturall. 2. ejusd. locusta
cum pedunculo et portione racheos magis aucta. 3. perianthium clausum articulo racheos
insidens, auctlus. 4. id. expansum, pari ter auctum. 5. valvula superior perianthii facie visa
ad id. augment. C. pollen. 7. flosculus perianthio orbatus exhibens stamina pistUlum et
lodiculas auct. uti 4 et 5. 8. Var. /3. planta mag. natur. 9. ejusd. locusta cum pedunculo

ad augm. id. ac 2, 10. perianthium expansum genitalia et lodicularum alter exhibens ad

augm. n. 4.

DUPONTIA.

Char. Gen. Gluma subeequlvalvls, scarlosa, concava, mutlca, locustam 2-3-floram sub-
aequans. Perianthia mutica, scarlosa, (basi barbata,) altero pedicellato ; valvulis integils,

inferiore concava. Lodicula 2. Ovarium imberbe. Stigmata subsessilia. Caryopsis

Gramen glabrum, erectum. Folia linearia, plana, vaginis semifissis, basi integra.
Panicula simplex, coarctata, fusco et purpurascenti varia, pedicellis cum locustis continuis,
perianthiis separatim solubilibus.

BOTANY.

CXCl

Obs. Ad Deschampsiam proxime accedit hocce genus ; distlnguitur perlanthiis muticis, val-
vulis integris nec dentatis. Cum Catabrosa, facie dlversissima, convenit pluribus notis,
differt glumis locustam subaequantibus, perianthiis basl breve barbatls. A Poa diversum
locustis baud compressis, glumis periantbiisque concavis nec carinatis. Ad confinnandum
genus caryopsis desideratur.

This genus is named in honour of Monsieur Dupont, of Paris, author of a valuable essay
-on the Sheath of the leaves of Grasses, and of observations on tlie genus Atriplex.

63. Dupoxtia Fisheri.

Desc. Gramen 6-1 0-unci ale, erectum. Cidmi simplices, foliati, Iseves, glaberrimi. Folia
radicalia et inferiora culmi canaliculata, angusto-linearia, acuta, leevia, 2-3-uncialia, vaginis
strictis, scariosis, vix ad medium fissis ; culmea 1-2-superiora breviora, plana, Itevia, vaginis
propriis laxiusculis foliaceis ultra medium fissis longiora : ligula mediocris, obtusa, subtrun-
cata, imberbis. Panicula coarctata, spiciformis, basi cpiandoque interrupta, purpureo-fusca,
nitens, sesquiuncialis — ^biuncialis, ramis subgeminatis, paucifloris, pedicellisque Isevibus cum
locusta continuis. Locusttz ovatee, biflorte, cum rudimento clavato setuliformi tertii flosculi,
nunc triflorsB flore tertio complete, nunc bifloree absque tertii rudimento. Gluma bivalvis,
subsequalis, miitica, glaberrima, purpurascens, subnitens, margine pallido scarioso, longitudine
locustam Valvula concavte nec carinatee, oblongo-lanceolata, inferior paulo angustior, acu-
minata V. acutissima, uninervis ; superior semi-trinervis, medio paulo infra apicem lateralibus
longe intra marginem evanescentibus. Perianthia subconformia ; inferius intra glumam sub-
sessile, a pedicello brevissimo separabile ; superius cum apice paulo dilatato pedicelli brevis
articulatum, facile solubile ; utriusque valvida inferior ovata mutica obtusa, vix unquam acuta,
integra, concava, ipsa basi pilis brevibus strictis albis barbata, et a basi fere ad medium pilis
brevioribus strictis subadpressis subsericea, trinervis, nervis lateralibus intra marginem eva-
nescentibus, medio paulo infra apicem desinente : superior longitudine inferioris, manifeste
angustior, lineari-oblonga, glaberrima, dinervis, nervis brevibus, intersticio lineari concavi-
usculo. Lodiculce duse, distinctee, collaterales, membranaceee, hyalinse, subovata^, v. cuneatcJe,
apice eroso-dentato, ovario longiores.^ Stamina 3, filamentis distinctis, capillaribus, antheris
fusco-purpureis, linearibus utrinque bifidis. Ovarium ovale, glabrum. Stigmata 2, subses-
silia, hyalina, dense plumosa, ramis apicem versus brevioribus.

Obs. The specific name is that of Mr. Fisher, whose herbarium contained the most com-
plete series of specimens of this grass.

64. Deschampsia brevifolia, panicula coarctata lanceolata : pedicellis leevibus, locustis
2-3-floris, arista stricta valvulam subaequante, folds Involutis : caulinls abbreviatis.

Desc. Gramen 3-5-unciale, glabrum. Culmi simplices, erectl, foliati. Folia inferiora
involuto-subulata, stricta, uncialia — sesqulunclalia ; vaginis strictis, folio brevioribus, ipsa basi
integra: ligula oblonga, lacinulata; supremum brevissimum, vagina elongata, laxiuscula,
ligula breviore. Panicula coarctata, lanceolata v. oblonga, fusco-purpurascens, scariosa,
ramis semiverticillatis. Locusta biflorse, raro trifloree, semper cum rudimento, pedicelliformi

2 o

/

CXCll

APPENDIX.

flosculi alterius. Gluma subsequivalvls, mutica, acuta, valvulis lanceolatls, concavis, acutis-
simis, scai-losis, disco purpurascenti, limbo pallido, uninerviis, locusta paulo brevioribus. Pe-
rianthia subuniformia, scarioso-membranacea, separatim solubilia, inferius sessile ; valvula
ferior ipsa basi barbata, pilis brevibus, stvictis, albis, cseterum glabra, concava, subquin-
quinervis, nervis omnibus laevibus, lateralibus obsoletis, apice eroso-multidentato, dorso seepius
infra medium aristata, arista setacea, recta, denticulata, valvulam ipsam vix vel paulo supe-
ranti : superior longitudine inferioris, angustior, dinervis, apice bidentato, quandoque semi-
bifido. LodiculcB % collaterales, hyalinse, imberbes, acutee, ovario longiores. Stamina 3,
antheris purpureis, uti-inque bifidis. Ovarium glabrum. Stigmata 2, sessilia, hyalina,
dense et breve plumosa. Flosculus superior pedicello barbato quocum articulatus insidens,
paulo minor, arista valvulae inferioris medio vel supra medium dorsi inserta. Rudimentum
flosculi tertii setula est extus longitudinaliter barbata, clavula scariosa minutissima terminata.

/3. Perianthia mutica.

Hujus quatuor exemplaria tantum visa a varietati a. facie paulo diversa folio supremo
longiori.

TRISETUM.

Triseti species Palis, agrost. p. 88. charactere reformato.

Chak. Gen. Locusta S-o-florse, ancipites. Gluma carinata, membranacea, sub^quival-
vis. Perianthii valvula inferior carinata apice bidentata v. biseta, dorso (supra medium)
aristata. Caryopsis libera, exsulca, lateraliter compressa.

Gramina ccespitosa ; vaginis longitudinaliter fissis. Panicula sape coarctata, aristis
arcuato-patulis.

Obs. A Descbampsia diflPert locustis ancipitibus, glumis carinatis, perianthii valvula infe-
riore carinata apice attenuato bidentato v. biseto, caryopside lateraliter compressa. Ab
Avenis plerisque glumis perianthiisque carinatis ; ab omnibus caryopside exsulca et lateribus
compressis.

65. Tkisetum suBSPicATUjr, Palis, agrostr. p. 88. Trisetum airoides, Roem. et Sck.
syst. 2. p. 666. exclus. syn. Wulfen et Host. Richardson in Franklin’s journ. p. 731.

Aira spicata, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 95. f. lapp. n. 47. Flor, Dan. t. 228. mala. Gunn,
norv. n. 422. Wahlenh. lapp. p. 33.

Aira subspicata, Linn. syst. nat. ed. 12. v. 2. p, 91. Willdeyi sp. pi. 1. p.377. Pers.
syn. 1. p. 77. Zag. pi. island, in Olafs. reise 2. p. 234. Giesecke greenl. in Brew-
ster''s Edin. encyclop.

HIEROCHLOE.

Hlerochloe Gmel. sib. 1. p. 100. Br. prodr. flor. nov, holl, p. 208, Trin. agrost. p. 130,
Hierochloa et Toresia, Palis agrost. p. 62 et 63.

BOTANY.

cxciii

Char. Gen. Gluma subBequivalvis, locustam trifloram sequans. Perianthia bivalvia,
later alia mascula, triandra ; terminals bermaphroditum, diandrum.

Ohs. Relationem veram Antboxanthl ad Hierochloem, in prodr. flor, nov. hoU. p. 209, pri-
mum indicatam, optime confirmat planta Javanicaintermedias structurse a D. Horsfield detecta;
in hac enim perianthium lateralium inferius masculum bivalve, su'perius univalve, neutrum :
terminals bermaphroditum. Hujus novi generis (Ataxia) habitus potius est Antboxanthi,
quocum etiam gluma inoequivalvi quadrat.

Cum Hierochloe characteribus nonnuUis convenit Artbrochloa (Holcus Palis. Trinii,
et Wahlenh. non Linncei gen. et sp. pi. ed. prima, nec Schreberi nec Gartneri ;) quae tamen
facile distinguitur ab hoc genere uti et ab Aira et Arhenatbero, gluma cum apice pedicelli
articulata et una cum locusta decidua.

66. Hierochloe alpina, Poem, et Sch. syst. 2. p. 515. Br. in Ross' voy. ed. 2.
vol. 2. p. 194. Richardson in Franklin's j own. j)- 131.

Holcus alpinus, Sway'tz in Schrad. neue journ. 2. si. 2. p. 45. t. 3. Wahlenh. lapp.
p. 31. t. 2. Svsnsk hot. 438. Flor. Dan. 1508. Giesecke greenl. in Brewster's Edin.
encyclop.

67. Hierochloe pauciflora, racemo simplicl, flosculo masculo superiore brevissime se-
tigero, folds culmi brevissimis ; radicalibus involutis.

Desc. Gramen 3-5-unciale. Radix repens. Culmi erecti, infra foliati supra nudi,
striati. Folia radicalia subulata, marginibus involutis, cubno aliquotles breviora; culmea
abbreviata, late subulata, marginibus inflexis, vaginis suis laxlusculls multoties breviora. jRo-
cemus erectus, simplex vel subsimplex, pauclflorus, pedicellis Isevibus. Locusts, ovatse, acutae,
tridora?. Glumce bivalves, scariosae, ovatse, concavse, acutiusculse, glaberrimse, locustam sub-
sequantes, valvula inferiore manifeste minore. Flosculi later ales masculi, triandri, bivalves,
chartacei, valvula inferior ovata, concava, marginibus infra medium nudiusculis supra omnino
nudis, flosculi superiorls mox sub apice emarginato setigera, seta brevissima stricta valvulam
vix superante ; flosculi Inferioris mutica v. per-obsolete setigera ; utriusque valvula superior
angustior, linearis, dlnervis, semibifida. Flosculus terminalis hermaphroditus, diander, mu-
ticus : valvula inferior concava, quinquinervis, extra medium dorso lateribusque pilosius-
culis, chartacea, fusca, apice scarioso ; superior bnearis, hyalina, glabra, acuta, indivisa, uni-
nervis. Lodiculce 2, collaterales, lanceolatse, acuminatae, hyalinse, ovario longiores. Ovarium
glabrum. Styli 2. Stigmata alba, dense plumosa.

2 0 2

CXCIV

APPENDIX.

ACOTYLEDONES.

MUSCI.

68. Pol YTRi CHUM pjiopinquum, caule simplici elongate, foliis margine serrulatis dorso
Lnevlbus.

Obs. Species, absque fructificatione baud determinanda, a Polytricho comrauni satis diversa
videtur.

69. PoLYTRiCHUM HYPERBOREUM, caule 1‘amoso, foliis piliferis marginibus induplicatis dis-
cum (totum lamelliferum) operientibus, eapsula tetragona apophysata.

Desc. Caules saepius ramosi ramis fastigiatis, nunc simpliciores innovatione una alterave
divisi. Folia e dilatata semivaginanti basi subulata, madore patula, siccitate appressa, disco
toto lamellifero ; marginibus latis, induplicatis, integerrimis, membranaceis a basi dilatata
usque ad apicem altero alterum equitante ; pilus apicis hyalinus folio aliquoties (2-3-plo)
brevier, per lentem denticulatus, strictus. Masculi flores disciformes, in cbstincto individuo
smpe minore. Seta nitens caulibus procerioribus (biuncialibus) subsimplicibus brevier, fas-
tigiato-ramosos superans v. mquans. Capsula erecta v. inclinans tetragona, angulis in aciem
attenuatis ; apophysis angulata angustior. Operculum hemisphaericum cum mucronulo brevi.
Peristomium dentibus 64. Epiphragma demum separabde. Calyptra exterior e villis dense
implexis.

Obs. Duplex varietas.

a. caulibus fastigiato-ramosis setam vix mquantibus.

/3. caulibus innovando subramosis seta longioribus.

Haec P. pilifero proxima ab eodem differt caulibus elongatis innovando ramosis, pdis folio
aliquoties brevioribus.

70. PoLYTRiCHUM BREviFOLiuM, caule raiuoso, foliis serrulatis muticis madore erectis sic-
citate appressis, capsula inclinata obovata exapophysata.

Desc. sesquiuncialis. divisi, ramis fastigiatis. i'bZfa e basi dilatata semi-

membranacea subulata, extra medium serrulata, acuta, mutica, disco toto lamellifero, dorso
laevi. Seta laevis, pallida. Capsula laevis, cernua, inmquUatera. Operculum conlco-hemisphae-
ricum, rostro subulato recurvo diametrum baseos vix aequante. Peristomii dentes 40, asqul-
distantes, intersticiis angustiores. Epiphragma crassiusculum. Calyptra exterior e villis
arete implexis.

Obs. Muscus, cujus tria tantum exemplaria a nobis visa in herbario D. Ross, nimis forsan
affinis P. alpino L,

BOTANY.

CXCY

71. PoLYTuicHUM sEPTEKTEioNALE, Sw. in ttct. kolm. 1795. p. 270. Muse.suec. p. 107.
i. 9. /. 18. Menzies in Linn. soc. transact. 4. p. 82. t. 7. f, 5.

Obs. In herbario D. Fisher absque fructificatione visum, ideoque dubium.

72. PoLYTEicHUM L^viGATUM, Wakleub. lapp. p. 349. t. 22. Hooker muse. exot. t. 81.

Catharinea laevigata, Bridel mant. p. 202.

Catharinea glabrata, Hooker isl. 2. p. 340. etl.p. 24.

Obs. Peristomii dentes saepius quantum determinare potui 16, quandoque 32, lineares,
acutiusculi, hyalini, per lentem longitudinaliter striati, striis ssepius paulo flexuosis, in hemis-
phserium conniventes ; dum 16 approximati intersticiis angustissimis, parum in^quales, la-
tioribus nunc bidentatis : dum 32 jequales, intersticiis manifests. Epiphragma hyalinum, di-
ametro longitudinem dentis vix aequante. Membrana interior capsules exteriori approximata,
intus Iffivis absque processubus plicisve. Columella libera, angulata, longitudine fere capsulse.
Capsula per lentem modice augentem manifeste areolata.

73. Hypnum nitens, Hedw. sp. muse, p, 255. Smith brit, 3. p. 1316. Engl. hot. 1646..
Muse. brit. p. 100. Wahlenh. lapp. p. 381.

74. Hypnum coedifolium, Hedw. stirp. crypt. 4. p. 97. t. 37. Sp. muse. p. 254. Smith
brit. 3. p. 1318. Engl. hot. 1447. Muse. brit. p. 107.

75. Hypnum ADUNCUM, /,?■??,??.. pZ. 2. p. 1592. Smith brit. S. p. 1327. Hedw.stirp'.
crypt. 4. p. 62. t. 24, Sp. muse. p. 295.

76. Leskia rufescens, Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. post. p. 178. t. 86.

Hypnum rufescens, Dicks, crypt, fasc. 3. p. 9. t. 8. f. 4. Smith brit. 3. p. 1316. Engl,
hot. 2296. Muse. brit. p. 99.

77. Mnium turgidum, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 351. t. 23. Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. post.
p. 123. Z. 77. Br. in Ross' voy. ed.2. vol. 2, p. 194. Richardson in Frcmklin's journ.
p. 756.

78. Timmia megapolitana, Hedw. stirp. crypt. 1. p. 83. t. 31. Sp. muse. p. 176.
Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. post. p. 84. Richardson in Franklin's journ. 756. Timmia cvi-
cuUata, Michaux am. 2. p. 304.

79. Bryum rostratum, Schrad. spicil. p. 72. Smith brit. 3. p. 1369. Engl. bot. 1745..
Muse. brit. p. 126. t. 30. Mnium rostratum, Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. post. p. 136. t. 79..

Obs. Muscus hicce, necnon sex proxime prsecedentes absque fructificatione tantum visi.

CXCVl

APPENDIX.

80. Bryuim calophylltxjM, follis ovatis obtusis concavis : marginibus slmplicibus integer-
rimis, capsulis obovatis pendulls.

Desc. CcBspites densi. Caules innovatlonibus contlnuis divisi, 2-5-uniclales, vetusti to-
mento radicali copioso et foliis emarcidis tecti. Rami annotini fastigiati, basi tantum tomento
radical! parciore instruct!, supra glabri. Folia uniformia, sparsa, approximata, ovata v. sub-
ovalia, modice concava, obtusa, mutica, marginibus simplicibus nec recurvis nec incrassatis,
areolis subrotundis, uniformibus, nervo valido, apicem folii attingenti absque niucronulo ex-
currenti, saepius purpurea, quandoque viridia, madore patenti-erecta, siccitate appressa et
paulo undulata. Seta terminalis, ramos annotinos superans, castanea, lasvis, apice arcuato-
recurvo. Capsula obovata, basi acutiuscula, vix attenuata, Itevis. Operculum concolor,
liemispbsericum, papilla minuta. Peristomium duplex, exterius dentibus 16, rufescentibus
acumine pallidiore, tranversum striatis; interius album, e membrana lata leviter carinata, termi-
nata ciliis 16, imperforatis, cum dentibus exterioris alternantibus, intersticiis subdenticulatis.

Obs. Peristomii structura Poblias accedit.

81. PoHLiA BRYoiDES, foliis ovato-lanceolatis acuminatis integerrimis margine recurvis,
capsulis pyriformi-oblongis, operculo conico, floribus masculis capitato-discoideis.

Desc. Ccespites densi. Caules innovatione continuo ramosi, infra tomento radicali castaneo-
rufo reliquiisque foliorum tecti. Folia Isete viridia, ovato-lanceolata, acuminata, nervo
valido, in acumen excurrenti, marginibus integerrimis augustissime recurvis, areobs parvis
oblongo-trapezoideis. Masculi Flores monoici, ramos annotinos terminantes, gemmaceo-
discoidei, foliis perigonialibus exterioribus erectis, intimis nanis. Anthem numerosae, cylin-
dracese, brevissime pedicellatte. Paraphyses filiformes, articulatae. Feminei Flores termi-
nales ; vaginula capsulse maturce pistillis abortivis numerosis paraphysibusque fere ad apicem
truncatum stipata. Seta mediocris, Ifevis, fusca, apice arcuato. Capsula pendula, fusca, lasvis,
oblongo-pyriformis, basi attenuata in apopbysim obconicam ipsa theca breviorem. Operculum
bemispbaerico-conicum, capsula quandoque paulo saturatius. Annulus latiusculus, striatus.
Peristomium duplex : extei'ius dentibus 16, acuminatis, integerrimis, transversim striatis,
fusco-rufescentibus, acumine pallido ; interioris membrana vix carinata, ciliis 16 cum den-
tibus exterioris alternantibus, absque intermediis minoribus, cum exteriore diu cobcerens sed
demum liberum.

82. PoHLiA ARCTiCA, foliis (vii’idibus) ovato-lanceolatis acuminatis : marginibus inte-
gerrimis recurvis, capsulis pyriformi-oblongis, operculo bemispbaerico, floribus berma-
phroditis.

Obs. Muscus per singula fere puncta proscedenti simillimus, praster flores bermaphroditos
et operculum bemispbeericum : ambo forsan ad unam eandemque speciem polygamam per-
tinentes. Flores gemmacei, terminales, foliis pericbaetialibus interioribus nanis. Anthera nu-
merosae, cum pistillis vix paucioribus intermistse, et cum borum abortientibus paraphysibusque
flliformibus vaginula capsulse maturae fere ad ejusdem apicem insidentes. Peristomium inte^

BOTANY.

CXCVll

rius structura prcecedentis pariterque cum exteriori diu cohmrens, demum vero liberum et
in omni statu separabile. Huic et praBcedenti valde affinis videtur Ptychostomum compactum
Hornschuch, et Schwaegr. suppl. 2. sect. 1. p. 56. 1. 115., cui peristomium interius cum
exteriore arctius cohaeret. Hujus generis ? alteram speciem arcticam habeo, Ptychostomum
p)ulchellum^ capsula sphaerico-obovata, operculo hemisphaerico mutico, dentibus peristomii ex-
terioris apice liberis basi mediante membrana (peristomio interiore) cohaerentibus, foliis ovato-
lanceolatis acuminatis integerrimis.

83. PoHT.iA PURPUE.ASCENS, foliis (purpurasceiitibus) ovato-lanceolatis acutissimis : mar-
ginibus integerrimis recurvis, capsulis pyriformi-oblongls, operculo lieraispbaerico obtuso, flori-
bus hermaphroditis.

Obs. Prfficedentis forsan varietas, vix distinguenda nisi notis supra datis.

Propter peristomii uaterni structuram banc cum duabus praecedentibus ad Pohliam retuli,
facies tamen potius Bryi est, et omnes B. caespiticio quam maxime affines.

84. Tkichostomum lanugixosum, Hedw. stirp. crypt. Q. p. 3. t. 2. Sp. muse. p. 16^.
Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p. 149. Smith brit. 3, p. 1240. Engl. bot. 1348. Turner
muse, hibern. p. 38. Muse. brit. p. 60. t. 19. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 134. Wahlenb.
lapp. p. 329. Richardson in Franklin's journ. p. 755.

Racomitrium lanuginosum, Brid. mant. p. 79.

Obs. Specimina pauca et absque fructificatione.

85. Dxdymodon capillaceum, Schrad. spicil p. 64. Sw. in act. holm. 1795, p. 237„
Muse. suec. p. 28. Roth. germ. 3. p. 199. Web. et Mohr, tasch. p. 155. Schkuhr deut.
moos. p. 66. t. 29. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 314. Carpal, p. 336. Voit muse, herbip. p. 34.
Muse. brit. p. 67. t. 20. Brid. mant. p. 100. Hooker, scot. par. 2. p. 136. Richardson
in Franklin's journ. p. 755.

Swartzia capillacea, Hedw. stirp. crypt. 2. p. 72. t. 26.

Cynontodium capillaceum, Hedw. sp. muse. p. 57. Schumach. salland. 2. p. 40.

Cynodontium capiEaceum, Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p. 114.

Trichostomum capillaceum, Smith brit. 3. p. 1236. Engl. bot. 1152. Turner muse,
hibern. p. 35.

Bryum capillaceum, Dicks, crypt, fasc. 1. p. 4. t. 1. /. 6.

Bryum tenuifollum, Villars dauph. 4. p. 868.

Bryum n. 1806. Hall. hist. 3. p. 44. t. 45. p. 1.

Obs. Duas varietates a Melville Island habeo, quarum

a. statura et foliis laxiusculis cum D. caplllaceo europaeo convenit, paululum differt cap-
sulis ovalibus nec oblongis.

|3. statura humiliore, foliis strictloribus et brevioribus; media quasi inter D. capEla-
ceum vulgare et D. subulatum Schkuhr deut. moos. p. 65. t. 28., quod ad eandem spe-
ciem pertinere videtur.

CXCVlll

APPENDIX.

In utraque varletate atqiie in D. capillaceo Richardson, 1. c. flores monoicos, masculis
gemmiformlbus alaiibus prope apicem ejusdem rami cum femineo gemmiformi, necnon annulum
manifestum, in D. capillaceo, jamj am a Voitio 1. c. notatum, et dentes peristomii 16 bipartitos
cruribus transversim connexis observavi.

86. Barbula leucostoma, caule subsimplici, folds ovato-lanceolatis mucronulatis in-
tegerrimis, capsula cylindracea erecta, operculo conico, peristomii dentibus obliquis apice
tortis.

Desc. Muscus caespitosus, semuncialis. breves, dense fobati, saspins indivisi, quan-

doque parum ramosi. Folia mncrone brevissimo, minute areolata, marginibus anguste revolutis,
nervo valido, siccitate adpressa et parum torta. Seta caule longior, laevis, fusca. Capsula
laevis, nequilatera. conicum, acutum, paulo inclinans, capsula dimidio brevius, te-

uuissime spiraliter striatum. Peristomium album, dentibus 32, filiformibus, per paria ap-
proximatis, dimidioque inferiore trabeculis connexis, supra distinctisj apicibus parum tortis.
Calyptra Imvis.

Obs. Inter Bai’bulam et Didymodon media.

8*7. Syntrichia ruralis, Web. et Mohr tasch. p. 215. Voit mus . herbip. p. 52.
Brid. mant. p. 98.

Tortula ruralis. Smith brit. 3. p. 1254. Engl. bot. 2070. Turner muse, hibern. p. 50.
Sw. muse. suec. p. 39. Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p. 137. Wahlenb. carpat. p. 338.
Muse. brit. p. 31. t. 12. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 127. Richardson in Franklin's jour n.
p. 755.

Barbula i-uralis, Hedw. sp. muse. p. 121. Wahlenb. lapp. 318.

Obs. Specimina duo tantum et sine fructificatione.

/

88. Syntrichia mucronifolia, caule ramoso, folds ovato-oblongis siccitate adpressis:
pllo Integerrimo latitudine fold breviore, capsula cylindracea inaequilatera erecta duplo longiore
operculo subulato-conico.

Tortula mucronifolia, Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p. 136. t. 35 Wahlenb. lapp. p. 317.^

Desc. Muscus v. caespitosus v. aids intermistus. Caules erecti, breves, semper ramosi,
ramis fastigiatis, dense foliati. Folia concava, marginibus integerrimls, infra medium
leviter recurvis, minute areolatis, areolis baseos paulo laxioribus, nervo valido in pilum inte-
gerrimum excurrente, madore erecto-patentibus, siccitate imbricatis adpressis nec contortls,
pilo parum flexo. Seta capsula baud duplo longior, concolor, siccitate tortibs. Capsula
saturate castanea, loevis. Operculum badium, per lentem pluries augentem spd’abter striatum,
dinddium capsulae vix rnquans. Peristomii membrana alba, pulchre reticulata, longior cibis
contortis. Calyptra novella tantum visa, laevis.

Obs. Syntriclda subgenus tantum esse vldetur Barbulae (s. Tortulae), cujus dentes e mem-
l)rana angusta ortum ducunt ; et in speciebus omnibus utriusque quas investigavi operculum
spiraliter striatum est.

BOTANY.

CCXCIX

De synonymis supra citatis <S. mucronifolice baud omnino certus sum, figura tamen
Schwaegrichenii bene respondet, et descriptio Wahlenbergii in omnibus convenit nisi longltu-
dine cupidis foliorum inferiorum.

89. Encalypta ciliata, Hedw. sp. muse. p. 61 ? Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p. 59?
Smith brit. 8. p. 1181 ? Engl. bot. 1418? Wahlenb. lapp. 311 ? Muse. brit. a. p. 35. 1. 13 ?

Leersia ciliata, Hedw. stirp. crypt. 1. p. 49. t. 19?

Obs. Exemplaria nonnuUa Encalyptae speciei in herb. D. Sabine olim visa ad banc, ni
fallor, pertinent; posthac determinanda.

90. Gymnostomum obtusifolium, foliis oblongo-ovatis obtusis integerrlmis, capsula
oblonga duplo longiore operculo conico columellae adnato.

Desc. Caules ramosi, dense foliati. Folia concava, infra laxiuscule supra medium
minute reticulata, marginibus planis, nervo vix apicem attingenti, madore erecto-patula, sic-
citate appressa et parum flexa. Seta fusca, laevis, caule longior. Capsula erecta, laevis,
fusca, reticulata. Operculum breve conicum, cum columella cylindracea diu cohserens.

APLODON.

Char. Gen. Peristomium simplex : dentibus 16, aequidistantibus, indivisis, reflexilibus.
Capsula apophysata, erecta. Calyptra losvis. Flores terminales : mascidi discoideo-capi-
tuliformes.

Obs. Subgenus Splachni, a quo differt solummodo dentibus 16 aequidistantibus, et forsan
columella capsulae maturae inclusa. Sed quonlam axis pellucidus dentis cujusvis compo-
sitionem ejusdem indlcat, ad Systylium (quod Splachni alterum subgenus,) dentibus 16,
aequidistantibus, bipartitis, plane accedit ; in hoc enim cohserentia operculi cum columella, ex
analogia cum Gymnostomis quibusdam, pro cbaractere specifici tantum valoris habenda sit ; et
ad eandem structuram approximatio indicata est in Splachno tenue et longicollo,m qulbus co-
lumella tota aplce subulato persistit, quamvis ab operculo cito soluta est. Transitus ab Aplo-
donte ad Splachnum facilis est per S. longicollum {Dicks, crypt, fasc. 4. p. 4. t. 10. f. 9.
America? occldentali nec Scotise indigenum,) cui dentes vix manifeste per paria approximati,
qua nota differt a S. tenue valde affine sed dentibus geminatis reflexilibus instructo. Ad
Aplodontem proxime accedit Weissia Splachnoides Schwaegr. (Cyrtodon nob., alterum
subgenus Splachni quasi constituens,) diversa prsesertim dentibus erectis apicibus incurvis,
ideoque S. Freelichiano dentibus erectis sed geminatis affinis.

91. Aplodon Wormskioldit.

Splachnum Wormskioldii, Hornem. in Flor. Dan. 1659. Schwaegr. suppl. 2. sect. 1. p. 27.
1. 108.

2 p

ccc

APPENDIX.

a. Folia acuminata.

Desc. Muscm laste virens, dense cmspitosus. Caules 1-3-unciales, innovatlonibus repetitls
ramosl, infra tomento radical! castaneo follisque emarcidis tecti ; ramis annotinis herbaceis,
viridibus, foliatis. Folia alterna, descendendo remotiora, laete viridia, ovato-lanceolata, acu-
minata, integerrima, laxe reticulata, nervo tenui, ad ortum acuminis concoloris, diametrum
transversum folii vix asquantis, desinenti. Masculus Flos discoideo-capitullformis, ramum
paucifolium ejusdem cum femineo vel distinct! caulis terminans ; foliis perigonialibus caulinis
subconformibus, infra conniventibus coloratis, apiclbus patulis vmidibus. Antherce nume-
rosae, brevissime pedicellatae, cylindraceae. Paraphyses plures, lutescentes, articulis sursum
crassioribus breviorlbusque, ultimo obtuso. Pistilla nulla. Femineus Flos terminalis, mas-
culo angustior, foliis perich(Btialibus rameis conformibus et concoloribus. Pistilla 3-5 ;
paraphysibus pauclssimis ; antheris nuUis. Seta ramum fructiferum subaequans, herbacea,
saepissime virldis, etiam post lapsum operculi, quandoque demum pallide fusca. V aginula
laxiuscula, dilute fusca, ore nigro-castaneo, quandoque inaequali, basi pistillis abortientibus
stipata. Calyptra glabra, Ifevis, subcampanulata, sed altero latere fere ad apicem usque
fissa, capsula adulta brevior. Apophysis obovata, basi vix attenuata, capsulam crassitie
subaequans, nunc paulo amplior, concolor, demum pallida et alte corrugata. Capsula erecta,
cylindraceo-obovata, laevls, castanea, stomate baud coarctato et quandoque dentibus de-
ciduis nudo, deoperculata apophysi brevior. P eristomium simplex, dentibus 16, sequl-
distantibus, lato-subulatis, Indivisis, axi longltudlnali semipellucldo, transversim striatis, slc-
citate arete reflexis, madore conniventibus, semisiccatis patulis. Columella capsula matura
brevior, apice simpllci. Operculum depresso-hemispliaericum, obtusissimum, altero latere
stomate diutlus adhoerens.

/3. Folia acutiuscula.

Obs. Ab a. differt, praeter folia absque acumine et quandoque obtusiuscula, caulibus bre-
vioribus vix unclalibus, stomate patentiore.

Planta groenlandica inter has duas varietates quasi media, cum a. foliis acuminatis con-
veniens ; ad 13. habitu propius accedens.

SPALCHNUM.

Linn. Hedw.

Char. Gen. P eristomium simplex: dentibus (reflexillbus) v. 8, geminatls (coalitione
nunc indivisis) : v. 4, quaternatls. Capsula erecta, apophysata. Calyptra glabra, Imvis.
Flores terminales : masculi (cum v. absque pistillis sterilibus,) discoideo-capltuliformes.

Obs. In S. octoblepharo Insulae Diemeni et magellanico peristomium octodentatum, sed
dentium striae longitudinales semipellucidm eorundem compositionem indicant. In S. angustalo^
arctico et propinquo peristomii dentes quaternatim approximati et basi coadunati. Dum

BOTANY.

CCCl

iS. FrelicManum, et forsan Wulfenianum, capsula inclinata et dentibus erectis a Splacbnis
genuinis distinguitur et subgenus efFormat.

92. Splachnum vasculosum, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1572. exclus. syn. Buxb. Hedw.
stirp. crypt. 2. p. 44. t. 15. optime, Sp. muse. p. 53. Schkuhr deut. moos. p. 41. t. 17.
iconea supra citata Hedwigii mutuata. Schwaegr. suppl. 1. sect. 1. p.5\. Wahlenb. lapp.
p. 308. Muse. brit. p. 21. t. 31. bene. Hooker scot. par. 1. p. 125.

Desc. Caules innovando subramosi, unciales, laxe foliati, inferne libras purpureas ramosas
supra-axillares nonnullas exserentes. Folia alterna, orbiculato-obovata, obtusissima, parum
concava, basi angustata, semiamplexlcaulia, rnarglnibus integerrimis planis, nervo mox infra
apicem evanescenti ; perichcctialia similia, intimis 2-3 exceptis minoribus ovatis acutiusculis.
Seta caulem subsequans, castanea, laevis. V aginula basi stipata pistillis pluribus abortivis.
Apophysis subsphserica vel obovata, capsula duplo amplior, semisiccata rugosa, nigro-fusca.
Capsula cylindracea, laevis, minute reticulata, fusca. Peristomium dentibus 16, per paria
approximatis, ssepiusque ad medium, quandoque fere ad apicem, connatis, singuli axi pellu-
centiori tenuissimo, omnes e basi angusta annulari orti, arete reflexiles dorso capsulse
appressi. Columella cylindracea, longitudine thecae, apice dilatato, plano-depresso. Masculi
Flores caulem distinctum paucifolium ejusdem caespitis terminantes, capitato-discoidei ; foliis
perigonialibus extimis obtusiusculis, interioribus longioribus, e basi latiore lutescenti conni-
venti patulis, lanceolatis apice angustatis, integerrimis. Anther a. numerosae, viginti plures.
Paraphyses numerosissimae, antheris longiores, subclavatae, articulis superioribus crassioribus
brevioribusque. Pistilla nulla.

Obs. Ab exemplaribus in Scotias montibus a D. Hooker lectis hoc paulo tan turn dilFert
foliis remotioribus et seta longiore.

93. Splachnum aecticum, peristomii dentibus quaternatim approximatis, apophysi ob-
conica capsula clausa angustiore deoperculata latiore, operculo conico-hasmisphaerico, floribus
masculis sessilibus, seta perichaetium bis superante, foliis ovato-lanceolatis concavis cuspi-
datis integerrimis.

Desc. Muscus dense caespitosus. Caules innovationibus ramosi, sesquiunciales, infra foliis
vetustis emarcidis tomentoque radiculoso copioso tecti. Rami annotini laete virides, foliati,
basin versus foliis rarioribus et brevioribus. Folia lanceolata-ovata, concava, integerrima,
cuspidata, cuspide concolori fere | longitudine lamina?, laxe reticulata, laete viridia. Femi-
neus Flos gemmiformis, angustus. Pistilla 3-5, hlis succulentis, paucis, hyalinis ; staminibus
nullis. Seta longitudine fere rami annotini, parum angulata, Isevis, castanea, capsula tota,
apophysi simul sumpta, duplo longior. Capsula vera cylindracea, l®vis, nigro-castanea, ore
dilatato, patulo. Apophysis obconica basi attenuata, capsula paulo longior. Operculum ma-
dore conicum, siccitate conico-hfemisph^ricum mucronulo manifesto. Peristomium Intra
marginem membrange exterioris, ubi desinet interior, ortum : dentibus 16, quaternatim ad me-
dium usque connatis, singulis absque stria longitudinal! manifesta. Masculus Flos cum fe-
mineo collateralis, ramum terminans, discoideo-capituliformis, semper sessilis, etiam dum femi-

2 p 2

CCCll

APPENDIX.

neus, pi’imo pari ter sessilis, florescentia peracta ramulo suo proprio elongate insidet. Folia
’perigonialia e basi lanceolata erecta in cuspidem basi longiorem, subulatum producta. Anther
numerosae viginti circiter, levissime arcuatas, brevissime pedicellatfe. Pafafhyses straminese
sursuni incrassatae articulis brevioribus crassioribusque. Pistil la nulla.

Obs. Facies omnino S. mnioidis, quocum pluribus notis convenit, satis diversum dentium
dispositione.

94. Splachnum propinquum, peristomli dentibus basi quaternatim cohserentibus, apo-
physi obconica capsula operculata paulo latiore, operculo siccitate depresso mutico, floribus
masculis breve pedunculatis, seta perichaetium vix superante, foliis ovatis concavis cuspidatis
integerrimis.

Desc. CcBspites densi. Caules Innovando divisi, unclales. Folia vlridissima, acumine
subulato-setaceo, concolori, longitudine | folii. Seta foliis floralibus paulo longior, angulata,
laevis, capsulam cum apophysi sumptam vix superans. Capsula cylindracea, brevis, ore di-
latato. Apophysis primo viridis, mox fusca, capsula ante lapsum operculi paulo tantum cras-
sior, demum nigricans, pyriformis, capsula deoperculata concolori fere duplo ainplior. Oper-
culum conico-hemisphaericum, muticuin, siccitate planiusculo-depressum. Peristomii dentes
16, quaternatim approxlmati et ad medium usque cohaerentes, singuli absque stria longltu-
dinali manlfesta. Columella ctasso-cylindracea, pulposa, apice hemispbasrico cavitatem oper-
culi replenti. Masculus Flos capitato-discoideus, ramulum brevem, femineo collateralem, ter-
minans, antherls paraphysibiisque numerosis, pistillis certe nullis.

Obs. Proximum S. arctico, an ejusdem varietas ?

95. Splachnuji exsertum, capsula interiore soluta siccitate semiexserta ; exterlore ore
dilatato, apophysi obconica capsula (concolori) angustiore, foliis lanceolato-ovatis acuminatis
integerrimis.

Desc. Caules annotino-ramosi ; Folia omnino S. arctici et propinqui. Masculus Flos ca-
pitato-discoideus, ramulum distinctum, femineo breviorem, foliatum, ejusdem caulis terminans,
foliis perlgonialibus basi lutescentibus, acumine brevi viridi. Antherce paucas, cylindraceae,
leviter arcuatoe : paraphysibus numerosis sursum crassioribus : pistillis nullis. Seta terminalis,
perichaetium vix superans, dilute fusca, laevis. Capsula cum . apophysi sumpta turbinata ;
theca extei'ior obovata ; interior pedicello insidens libera, demum exsiccatione exterioris ex-
serta. Peristomium : dentes 16, mox intra marginem capsulae exterioris orti, primo quater-
natim basi cohaerentes, demum quaternatim vel quandoque geminatim reflexi.

Obs. Muscus valde affinis hinc S. arctico et propinquo inde paradoxo ; et hi omnes adeo
approxlmati praesertim figura et textura foliorum ut varietates unius ejusdemque speciei
forsan considerari possunt.

96. Splachnum paradoxum, capsula adulta absque sutura operculi (demum separabilis .?) ;
interiore pedicellata, apophysi attenuata capsula angustiore, foliis lanceolato-ovatis acumi-
natis integerrimis.

botany.

CCClll

Desc. Ctiules vix semunclales, innovationlbus ramosi. Folia ovato-lanceolata, concavius-
eula, carinata, laxe reticulataj integerrima, acumine subulate diametrum transversum folii sub-
sequanti, demum decolor! pilum referenti. Masculi Flores discoideo-capituliformes, termi-
nantes ramos proprios pedunculiformes, paucifolios, foliolis nanis alternis : folia perigonialia
laiiceolata, basi conniventiaj apicibus patulis acuminatis. Anther a numerosse, cjdindracese,
levissime incurve. Paraphyses numerosse, subclavatje. Flos femineus terininalis. Seta
fusca, Isevis, caule longior. Capsula erecta, oblongo-obovata, basi in apophysin obconicam
seipsa angustiorem et breviorem attenuata, l^vis, per lentem pluries augentem punctis minutis
longitudinaliter seriatis, depressis, adversus lucem semipellucidis tenuissime quasi striata,
absque operculo ejusve ulla indicatione, apiculo obtuso paulo constricto. Theca vera di-
midiam. superiorem tantum capsulse exterioris occupans, pedicello cylindraceo, ex apice apo-
physis derivato, insidens, libera, ad ortum dentium desinens ibique cum capsula exteriore con-.
Aliens. Dentes 16, quaternatim ad medium cohserentes, subulati, pallide fusci, apicem cavitatis
capsiilae attingentes. Semina minutissima, in cumulo olivaceo-viridia, seorsim hyalina, laevia.

Obs. Hsec omnia e specimine unico cum capsulis 8 maturis plenis et duabus vetustis vacuis
pariter clausis, varietatem nanam S. arctici referente, desumpta sunt. Exemplaria deinplura
varietatis, ut videtur, ejusdem Musci, in berbario D. Richardson, inter Fort Enterprise et
mare arcticum lecta, et cum S. mnioidi»ScAu!aegr. in Franklin' s j own. p. 755 (non Hedwigii,)
intermista inveni : horum capsule adults numerosae cinnamomeo-fuscae, clausae et absque su-
tura vel uUa alia operculi indicatione. In hac varietate /3., quie statura major et calyptra
dimidiata donata, seta longior quam in a., dentesque 16 subsequidistantes et fere ad basin
distinct!.

E duplicis varietatis hisce speciminibus diu in animo fuit proponere novum genus
sub nomine Ceyptodontis, ob capsulam operculo destitutam dentibus verb inclusis instruc-
tam : sed omnibus iterum examini subjectis capsulam unam alteramve vetustam operculo
delapso et peristomio dentato, in eodem csespite cum clausis, et quantum determinare licuit ad
eandem speciem pertinentem, observavi, ideoque ad Splacbnum, baud tamen absque dubita-
tione, museum paradoxum demum retuli. In Splachneis autem, prmter annuli defectum in
tota tribu, approximationes nonnullse ad capsulam clausam occurrunt, scilicet in Aplodonte ubi
operculum cum altero latere stomutis diutius cohieret, et in Systylio in quo cum columella
coh^rens persistit : nec transitus difficilis a Splachneis ad Voitiam habitu et statione iisdem
bene convenientem.

VOITIA.

Hornschuch comment, de voit et syst. p. 5. Hooker muse. exot. 97. Nees v. Esenb. et
Hornsch. bryol. germ. 1. p. 79. Schwaegr. suppl. 2. sect. 1. p. 2. Greville et Arnott in
IVern. soc. transact. 4.

Chau. Gen. Capsula clausa, (absque operculo dentibusve inclusis,) rostrata. Calyptra
dimidiata, capsula adulta longior, tardius decidua. Flores terminales : masculua femineo col-
lateral! subconformis.

ccciv

APPENDIX.

Obs. Genus a Phasco segre distinguendum, habitu quamvis necnon statlone valde diversuin,
et ad Splachneas mediante S. paradoxo, (s. Cryptodonti) accedens. Calyptra multo amplior
equidem et diutius remanens quam in Phasco, sed demum decidua, nec persistens. Vaginula in
V. hyperborea certe indivisa, nec eandem bivalvem neque fissam in exemplaribus panels V. niva-
lis a nobis investigatis observare licuit. In utraque specie ejusdem margo manifeste intequalis
et sublacera, sed eandem fere structuram in Phascis qulbusdam, prsesertlm in P. bryoidi et
curvicollo, observavimus. Capsula cum seta sua elongata saepe decidua sed quandoque nec raro
vel cum eadem persistens, vel a seta persistent! decldens : et seta minime post lapsum capsulse
in Phascis omnibus persistit. Membrana interna libera, cum processu subulato, rostrum cap-
sulse penetranti, in P. bryoidi et curvicollo pariter exstat: et florum dlspositio subsimilis in
Phascis nonnullis obtinet. Semina minutissima affinitatem Voitige cum Cryptodonti potius
quam Phasco indicant.

Voitia vogesiana Nestl. dubia hujus generis species mihi videtm*, et habitu Phascis non-
nullis, praesertim P. flexuoso Schwaegr. suppl. 2. sect. 1. 1. t. 101. convenit; a Voitia

diversa floribus saepe dioicis, masculorum forma, capsulis basi in apophysin angustiorem at-
tenuatis, seminibus majuscidis, et forsan magnitudine proportionali calyptroe a me nondum
visae.

97. Voitia hyperborea, capsula globoso-ovata basi subtruncata, folds dilatato-ovatis acu-
minatis.

Voitia hyperborea, Greville et Arnott in Wern. soc. mem. 4. tab. l.f. 19. capsula, et 21.
folium.

Desc. Muscus caespites densos saepius elfoiTnat, raro aliis, Splachnis praesertim, Intermixtus.
Caules 6-9-lineas longi, tomento radical! inferne arete cohaerentes, innovationibus subramosl, basi
foliis vetustis tomentoque radical! rufo-castaneo copioso tecti ; ramis annotinis dense fohatis
eradiculosis. Folia late ovata, modice concava, integerrima, acumine e nervo valido j^roducto
formato, ^ longltudinis folii aequante, sed concolori nec nisi vetustate canescenti pilumque refe-
renti, laxluscule reticulata, areolis rectangulis, invicem inaequalibus sed per totam folii longitu-
dinem uniformlbus, marginalibus vix majoribus, madore erecta, siccitate subappressa. Peri-
chcetialia paulo majora, acumine proportionatim longiore. Vaginula cylindracea, basi pislillis
panels abortivis stipata, indivisa, nec fissa nec bivalvis, apice membranaceo inaequali lacero.
Seta elongata, caulem totum eequans v. parum superans, laevis, castanea, siccitate tortuosa.
Capsula erecta, castanea, Isevis, dilatato-ovata, basi transversa subtruncata, rostro apicis inclinato
longitudine dimidii capsulae, absque operculo ejusve omni vestigio : exterior coriacea, minute
reticulata, areolis quadratis ; interior ab exterlore libera, centro baseos umbilicatae affixa, apice
clause processu subulato longitudine rostri exterloris, pallida, tenue membranacea, utrlnque
laevis nec intus septis processubusveln^qualis. Columella angulata subtetragona, longitudine
capsulae interioris. Semina minutissima, Phasci bryoidis decies fere minora, in cumulo viridia,
separatim hyallna, subglobosa, per lentem centies augentem striis nonnullis inslgnita, sed sifn-
plicia nec divislbilia. Masculus Flos ramulum proprium, brevissimum, femineo collateralem hoc
vero post faecundationem elongate demum quasi lateralem terminans, discoideo-gemraiformis.

BOTANY.

CCCV

femineo subsimilis, folils perlgonialibus perichaetialibus conformibus. AnthercB numeros^, cylln-
dracese, leviter arcuatse. Paraphyses copiosse, articulis superioribus sensira crassioribus et
brevioribus.

Obs. Valde affinis Voitige nivali quas differt capsula oblongo-ovata basi acuta, follis elongato-
ovatls laxioribus, statura majorl.

HEPATICiE.

98. JuNGERMANNiA MiNUTA, Schreb. in Crantz gronl. forts, p. 285. Dicks, fasc. 2.
p. 13. Wahlenb. lapp.p. 393. Hooker brit. junger. t. 44. Engl. bot. 2231.

Jungermannla bicornis, Flor. Dan. 888. f. «. Schwaegr. prodr. hepat. p. 27. Ri-
chardson in FranklirCs j ourn. p. 757.

Obs. Planta nostra, cujus exemplaria perpauca et fructlficatione destituta tantum visa, media
quasi inter I. minutam et ventricosam^ ab utraque foliis explanatis, nec margine inferiore
induplicatis, differt.

99. Marchantia polymorpha, imw. sp.pl. ed. %p. 1603, Flor. lapp. n. 422. W ihlenb.
lapp. p. 397. Schmid, ic. p. 106. t. 29. Engl. bot. 210. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 119.
Mich. am. 2. p. 277. Br. in Flind. voy. 2. p. 593. Richardson in FranklirHs journ.
p. 757.

LICHENOSdE.

100. Gyrophora proboscidea, Achar. syn. p. 64. Engl. bot. 2484. Hooker scot,
par. 2. p. 41.

Gyrophora proboscidea /3. Richardson in Franklin! s journ. p. 758. tab. 30. f. 4.

Gyromium proboscideum, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 483.

Obs. In nostra planta pagina inferior, quse semper laevis fibrillisque destituta, saepius ci~
nerea, nunc tota atra ; quandoque thallo ad ambitum cribroso G. erosse accedit.

101. Lecanora elegans, Achar. syn. p, 182. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 50. Richard-
son in Franklin’s journ. p. 760.

Lichen elegans, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 417. Carpat. p. 373- Engl. bot. 2181.

102. Borrera ? AtJRANTiACA, thallo adscendenti aurantiaco tereti-compresso nudo sub-
dichotomo basi pallido : ramulis ultimis brevissimis obtusis.

Obs. Affinis B. flavicanti AcA'xr, 1. c., utraque thallo teretiusculo fruticuloso a reliquis di-
versa. In hac Apothecia ignota ideoque dubii generis est.

103. Cetraria juniperina, Achar. syn. p. 226.

CCCVl

APPENDIX.

Obs. Vix omnino cum C. junlperina qviadrant specimina nostra quibus laciniae crenataenec
erosse, margines pulvere destitutae, discus laevis vix manifeste lacunosus, et paginae, qua;
citrinae, concolores.

104. Cetuaria xxvalvis, Achar. syn. p. 228. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 57. Br. in

Ross' voy. 2. ed. v. 2. p. 195. Spitz, pi. in Scoresby's arct. append, p. 7G. Richardson

in Franklin's journ. p. 761.

Lichen nivalis, Linn. lapp. n. 446. t. 11. f. 1, Soland. in Phipps"' voy. p. 203.
fVahlenb. lapp. p. 433. Carpat. p. 379. Engl. bot. 1994. Svensk bot. 384.

105. Cetraeia cucullata, Achar. syn. p. 228. Richardson hi Franklin's journ.

p. 761.

Lichen cucullatus, Smith in Linn. soc. transact. 1. p. 84. t. 4. f. 7. Wahlenb. lapp.
p. 433. Upsal. p. 413. Carpat. p. 379.

106. Cetraria islaxdica, Achar. syn. p. 229- Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 58. Br. in

Ross' voy. ed. 2. vol. 2. p. 195. Richardson in Franklin's journ. p. 761.

Lichen islandicus, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1611. Flor. Dan. 155. Eiigl. bot. 1330.

Svensk. bot. 34. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 434. Carpat. p. 379- Upsal. p. 413. Soland. in
Phipps' voy. p. 203.

Physcia islandica, Mich. am. 2. p. 326.

107. Cetraria odontella, Achar. syn. p. 230.

Lichen odontellus, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 434.

108. Peltidea aphthosa, Achar. syn. p. 238. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 446. Carpat.
p. 380. Svensk bot. 318. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 60. Richardson in Franklin's journ.

p. 761.

Lichen aphthosus, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1616. Engl. bot. 1119. Wulfen in Jacqu.
coll. 4. p. 266. t. 17.

109. CoRxicuLARiA ocHROLEucA, Acliar . syn. p. 301. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 69.
Richardson in Franklin's journ. p. 762.

Usnea ochroleuca, Hoffm. pi. lichen. 2. p. 7. t. 26. f. 2.

Lichen ochroleucus, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 438. Carpat. 382. Engl. bot. 2374.

110. CoRNicuLARiA LANATA, Achar. syn. p. 302. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 69.

Lichen lanatus, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. p. 1623. Engl. bot. 846. Wahlenb. lapp. p. 440.

Carpat. p. 383.

Lichen normoricus, Gunn. norv. par. 2. p. 123. t. 2. /. 9 — 14.

BOTANY.

CCCVll

111. Ceeania veemicularis, Achar. syn, p. 278.

Cenomyce ? vermicularis, Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 65. Richardson in Franklin's journ.
p. 762. Br. in Flinders' voy. 2. p. 594.

Boeomyces vermicularis, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 458.

Cladonia subuliformis, Hoffm. pi. lichen. 2. p. 15. t. 29. f. 1 — 3.

Lichen vermicularis, Dicks, crypt, fasc. 2. p. 23. t. 6. f. 10. Engl. hot. 2029.

Obs. Apothecia (?) lateralia, sparsa, atra, thallo innata coque submarginata, apotheciis
Roccellae aliquo mode accedentia, in exemplaribus nonnullis a D. Fisher lectis observavi.

112. Cenomyce pyxidata, Achar. syn. p. 252.

113. Stereocaulon paschale, Achar. syn. p. 284. Mich. am. 2. p. 331. Br. in
Flinders' voy. 2. p. 594. Spitz, pi. in Scoresby's arct. 1. append, p. 76. Giesecke
Greenl. in Edin. encyclop. Hooker scot. par. 2. p. 66. Richardson in Franklin's
journ. p. 762.

Boeomyces paschahs, Wahlenb. lapp. p. 450. Carpat. p. 386.

Lichen paschalis, Linn. sp. pi. ed. 2. v. 2. p. 1621. Soland. in Phipps' voy. p. 204.

Lichen ramulosus, Sw. jl. ind. occid. 3. p. 1917.

114. UsNEA sphacelata, thallo erectiusculo fruticuliformi, ramis primariis ochroleucis
nigro-vittatis Ifevibus, ultimis attenuatis nigris : sorediis confertis concoloribus ochroleucisve.

Usnea.^ prope melaxantham, Br. spitz, pi. in Scoresby's arct. 1. append, p. 76.

Obs. Proxima U. melaxanthae Ach. syn. p. 303., differt statura aliquoties minore, ramis
primariis lasvibus, sorediorum praesentia. Apothecia nondum visa. Eandem speciem, so-
rediis pariter instructam apotheciisque destitutam, in summitate Montis Tabularis Insulse Van
Diemen, anno 1804, legi.

FUNGI.

115. Cantharellus lobatus. Fries syst. mycolog. 1. p. 323.
Helvella membranacea, Flor. Dan. 1077. f. 1.

116. Lycopeedon peatense, Pers. syn. fang. p. 142.

Praeter plantas supra enumeratas, species nonnullae in herbariis citatis exstant, scilicet
Muscorum quinque, Lecideae v. Leprariae unica, et Agarici tres : has vero e speciminibus vel
fructificatione destitutis vel male exsiccatis baud determinare potui.

Algae submersk prorsus nuUas reportatae fuere.

CCCVlll

APPENDIX.

Species quae Florulae Melvillianae adhucdum propriae remanent sequentes sunt.

Ranunculus Sabinii, qui nivali nimis affinis.

Ranunculus affinis, proximus auricomo.

Draba faucijiora, valde dubia species.

Platypetalum dubium, cujus flores ignoti.

Sieversii Rossii, proxima S. humili Oonalashkas indigena.

Tussilago corymbosa, valde affinis T. frigidce.

Pedicularis arctica, prope P. sudeticam et Langsdorfii.

Dupontia Fisheri, gramini nuUi cognito affinis.

Barbula leucostoma, quae species distincta videtur.

Gymnostomum obtusifolium, species insignis, sed non satis cognita.

Splachnum arcticum, proximum S. mnioidi.

Borrera aurantiaca, Lichenosa distincta, sed dubii generis.

Genus itaque Insulae Melville peculiare nullum restat nisi Dupontia, si hoc equidem ser-
vari meretur.

Aliquas observationes, species nonnuUas Florulae MelvUlianas illustrantes, derivatas ex
herbarii inspectione ad litora orientalia Americae arcticae, inter grad. 66. et 70. lat., innovissima
navigatione ducp D. Parry, formati a D. Ross, cujus amici tiae specimina totius coUectionis
debeo, hie subjungere licet; ordine Florulae servato numerisque specierum praefixis.

11. Platypetalum purpurascens.

Silicula V. ovali-oblongae v. oblongae, glabrae v. pihs raris brevibus simplicibus bifidisque
conspersae, stigmate quandoque capitato emarginato, nec semper bilobo lobis patentibus,
coronatae : valvuKs aveniis, ecarinatis, planiusculis ; dessepimento rarius fenestrato. Semina
biseriata. Cotyledones incumbentes, angusto-oblongae, rectae nec basibus crus radiculare
embryonis occupantibus.

Platypetalum itaque hinc Subularice affine inde Eudemce, haec vero differt stylo elongate,
dissepimento semper fenestrato, et forsan aliis notis e floris examini accuratiore derivandis.

13. Eutrema Edwardsii.

Herba quandoque 4-6-uncialis.

18. Stellaria Edwardsii.

Exemplaria omnia ad var. « pertinent, folds ovatis acutis caulibusque glaberrimis, pedun-
culis unifloris, antheris purpureis, capsulis erectis semisexvalvibus calycem vix superantibus,
seminibus laevibus fuscis.

Species forsan polygama, ad quam referenda S. Edwardsii Richardson et S. nitida
Hooker ?

BOTANY.

CCCIX

26. Saxifeaga gnifloka.

Exemplaria omnia staturas majoris sunt, et pleraque caulibus 2-3-floris donata ; ideoque
haec, quae potius pro varietate insigni quam distincta specie supra proposita fuit, ad S. cses-
pitosam absque dubio reducenda.

36. OxYTEOPIS AECTICA.

Hujus varietas notabilis, vix enim distincta videtur species, statura minor, scapo saepe
unifloro passimque umbella biflora, dentibus calycis respectu tubi paulo longioribus, foliolis
saepius 7, quandoque 9, villis persistentibus utrinque argenteo-sericeis.

39. CiNEEAEIA CONGESTA.

Herba quandoque spithamea, folia saepius sinuato-dentata, nunc alte sinuata, passim
indivisa ; haec exemplaria itaque propius C. folustri accedunt, inflorescentia densiore, lana
magis copiosa et longiore praesertim distinguenda.

50. Caeex misandea.

Hujus exemplaria aliqua completa, 6-9-uncialia, foliis linearibus apice attenuate, mar-
ginibus deorsim scabris, culmo laevi, spicis 3-4, alternis, raro subumbellatis, terminali basi
solum rariusve tota mascula, stigmatibus saepissime tribus. Hinc ad C. fuliginosam Sternb.
1. c. procul dubio referenda.

51. Caeex concoloe.

Specimina proceriora, spicis femineis longioribus, axi squamarum pallido, ad C. caespi-
tosam propius accedunt, et culmo laevi praecipue distingui possunt.

56. COLPODIUM LATIFOLIUM.

In exemplaribus plerisque rudimentum breve setuliforme flosculi secundi adest ; necnon
valvulae inferioris perianthii setula denticulata dorsalis, 1-5 circiter ab ejusdem apice, nervum
centralem terminans, altitudinem valvulae vix aequans. Aliqua autem omnino mutica sicut
pleraque ab Insula Melville.

57. POA ANGUSTATA.

Hujus, ni fallor, varietas nana (2-3-uncialis), perianthiis glaberrimis, locustis viridibus
apicibus purpureis valvulae inferioris perianthiorum solum exceptis.

58. PoA ABBEEVIATA.

Specimina pleraque vix triuncialia.

60. Festuca beevifolia.

Triviale nomen his exemplaribus vix convenit, quibus folia radicalia dimidium et ultra
culmi aequant, et culmea vaginis suis proportionatim longiora sunt.

cccx

APPENDIX.

62. Pleuropogon Sabinii.

Exemplar unicum caespitosum, in palude a D. Ross lectum, ad var. /3 pertinet, culmis
partialibus quadriuncialibus, antheris purpureis.

91. Aplodon woemskioldii.

Exemplaria nonnulla varietatis a supra enumeratis diversae, cujus folia acutiuscula absque
acumine, apophysis ovato-globosa, nec basi attenuata, pallide straminea, cava, axi solido, cap-
sula castanea amplior.

97. VoiTIA HYPEEBOREA.

Saepius aliis Muscis, Splachnis praesertim, intermista crescit.

FINIS.

LONDON :

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES,
Northiunbcrland court.

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