GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR,!

\£3v f

GARDEN AND HERB SEED,

WITS

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD

FOR TH2 CULTIVATION OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES AND HERBS.

WITH A CALENDAR,

SHOWING THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN A KITCHEN GARDEN

EVERY MONTH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.
ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR

FORCING OR FORWARDING VEGETABLES

OUT OF THE ORDINARY SEASON.

THE V,'HOLB ADAPTED TO THE CLIM.-TE OF TTTB UII.'TED STATES

A NEW AND IMPROVED EDITION.

By THOMAS BR1DGEMAN,

Gardener, Seedsman, aiul Florist.

NEW-YORK :

FOR JUI.K EV THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORJ

.T. M. Thorbur1! <<c < '<>., 15 Juhii-streot, Alex. Sin

Broadway, N. V. ; Win. Thorburn, Brondwuy, Alhuuj . < F.I • lln-

.i. I,. [,. K. Wnnvii. \\ ulker \ '

Lnn.lrci.h. li. .l.oit Muist, Phil'ulflplii'i ; (iil.s.n: •

R. Sinclair, Jr., & Co., BaUimi»r< , .1 P. Cnllan, Wnshirigto

sindiiii. It. ('. • MIL C!i:irlr-ton, S. ' Win.

Dlnn, M. :1 liorh'irn. St. Lm,!< : i

cinuali ; Chsii, .ii;il)iis, (>a. , A. <«. .Muun, L.uuin ' other

Seedsmen. — Also, iiy !. --'neral.

GIFT OF
G. H. Hovey

C DCPT

THE

KITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR,

CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF

GARDEN AND HERB SEED,

WITH

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES AND HERBS.
WTTH A CALENDAR,

SHOWING THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN A KITCHEN GARDEN
EVERY MONTH THROUGHOUT THE SEAScN.

ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR

FORCING OR FORWARDING VEGETABLES

OUT OF THE ORDINARY SEASON.

THS WHCT.-M ADAPTED TO THE OLIMATS,' Off J\E*E ttNllBD

A NEW AKD IMPROVED EDIT

BY THOMAS BR1DGEMAN,

Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist.
NEW-YORK :

FOR SALE BY THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORNER OF EIGHTEENTH STREET,

Landreth, H. A. Dreer, Robert Buist, Pbilndelphin : Gibson & Ritchie, i^wuriv, r«. „. ;
R. Sinclair, Jr., & Co., Baltimore; .T. P. Cnllan, Washington City ; Henry Cook, Alex-
andria, D. C. : Frederick Wittuenn, Charleston, S. C. ; Mosely & Co.. Mobile; Wm.
Dinn, New Orleans ; las. M. Thorburn, St. Louis ; Ely & Campbell, H. Huxley, Cin-
cinnati; Charles A. Peabody Columbus, Ga. ; A. G. Munn, Louisville, Ky. ; and other
Seedsmen. — Also, by Booksellers in general.

1847.

Printed by A. Hiinford.58 Nassau-street.

~R <7£T

[Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundro!
and Forty-seven by THOMAS BRIDGEJMAN, in the Clerk's Office of the Dis-
trict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-Yorfc.)

PREFACE.

"THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT" having been ex-
tended to five times its original size, by the introduction of
various additional subjects connected with Horticulture,. I
have been induced to publish that part which relates to the
cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Pot Herbs, &c., in a
separate form, under the title of " The Kitchen Gardener's
Instructor." This has been done with a view to enable our
respectable seedsmen to afford instruction, at a trifling ex-
pense, to those of their customers whose attention may be
directed wholly to that branch of Horticulture, and thei-eby
prevent themselves being blamed by those who may not
have given their seed a fair trial, from not knowing how to
dispose of it in the ground.

Having had twenty-four years' experience as a gardener
and seedsman, in the vicinity of New- York, I am aware of
the importance of correct information on the subject of gar-
dening; and, from a conviction that the reputation of many
honest seedsmen is often unjustly attacked in consequence
of the failure of seed, when the fault lies not with them, but
with the gardener, I have endeavoured, in my humble way,
to render myself useful both to the seedsman and gardener,
by giving brief directions for the management of a Kitchen
Garden, in such a way as is calculated to insure success.

But, as much depends on minute attention to points appa-
rently trifling, I would remind my readers that the products
of the garden are natives of various soils and climates, and
that while some vegetables can only be raised in cool and
temperate weather, others require the heat of the summer
to bring them to perfection. This consideration should
induce gardeners to watch the seasons as they pass, and also

GGS579

VI PREFACE.

to plant their seed at suitable depths and distances, accord-
ing to their nature and dimensions, as an opportunity of
raising some of the luxuries of the garden beitrg lost for tho
season, may occasion more anxiety and trouble, than il
would cost to acquire a correct knowledge of the art of Gar-
dening.

It is, however, of the utmost importance to a gardener
that he obtain such seed as will grow freely, and produce
vegetables calculated to suit the market. As I value my
reputation above all things upon earth, chanty forbids me to
believe that any man of standing would wilfully sell bad seed.
It is true, that the most careful may at times be deceived,
especially in seasons when a full supply of fresh seed can-
not be obtained from their regular growers ; but, in general, our
established seedsman may be supposed to know the true cha-
racter of his stock; and if he studies his interest, he will not
knowingly sell an article that is not calculated to do him
credit. It must, however, be admitted, that knowledge is as
necessary to a seedsman as to a gardener, and therefore the
above remarks cannot apply to every storekeeper who may
sell seed, because many, being mere agents, do not pretend
to know one kind of seed from another; and from its not
being a primary object with them, it cannot be expected
that they will take the same interest in the traffic as a regu-
lar seedsman, and therefore such agents may riot consider
their reputation at stake.

The experience of old and skilful gardeners will bear
witness to the fact, that failures often occur even with good
seed, and with the very best attention on the part of the
gardener. It often happens that insects so infest the land,
as to devour the seed while sprouting, and before a plant is
seen above ground. Sometimes a serious drought succeed-
ing a heavy rain will cause seed to perish through incrusta-
tion of the soil; and very frequently seed will fail to vegetate
in dry soils and seasons, for want of pressure. I was once
called upon by a neighbour to examine his garden, in which

PREFACE. Vii

he had sown several sorts of seed a month previous, which
he had condemned as barren and unfruitful. On looking
over his land, I perceived a horse track : the animal had
broken -his halter, and traversed the garden in different
directions. On tracing the horse's footsteps, I perceived
plants coming up thick in the tracks, which convinced me
that if the seed had been planted deeper, or the ground
rolled at the time of depositing the seed therein, the gardener
would have had no* cause to complain either of the seedsman
or his seed.

The above instance of loss, occasioned by want of attention
to points apparently of trifling importance, not being a soli-
tary one, I would urge the gardener to precision and dili-
gence in his undertaking ; and, as my object has been to
impart useful knowledge in the following pages, they who
are in pursuit of information on the subject of gardening,
are invited to a perusal before they deposit their seed in the
ground.

As in all the former editions of this work, it was my
earnest care to confine my attention to the most important
practical subjects, I may be allowed here to remind the
reader, that every article in the book contains ample direc-
tions for the cultivation of whatever it has reference to ; but,
as the inexperienced are apt to imbibe very erroneous ideas
on some points of culture, I have, in this edition, introduced
various notes, many of which are designed to point out the
evil which it is intended to remedy ; — for instance, a novice
in gardening undertakes to cultivate a piece of ground, and
having been informed that manure is a very important arti-
cle in the cultivation of his vegetables, procures, perhaps,
ten times as much as is necessary ; this he applies to his
beds in such extravagant quantities as to prevent the seed
from germinating, and in some cases it renders the ground
sterile, until time and exposure to the atmosphere reclaim
it. (See noto page 15.)

Another very prevalent error is evinced by persons de

Till PREFACE.

laying to sow their seed until a period when they ought to
be preparing to gather a crop; hence it frequently happens
that such, on the appearance of any rare vegetable in mar-
ket, are induced to visit the store for some seed, which, al-
though they sow it out of the ordinary season, they expect
to gather perfect specimens of vegetables. (See notes pages
52 and 72.) Others, again, are so inattentive to their seed
beds, after depositing seed therein, that they neglect all
precautions of preserving their crops from the attacks of in-
sects, which often make clean work before they are disco-
vered. (See notes in pages 19, 55 and 104.) As such cus-
tomers are generally loudest in their exclamations agaiust
seedsmen, I have been induced to discuss the most impor-
tant points connected with the subjects, with a view to strike
at the root of the most fatal errors attending the cultivation
of a garden, and I flatter myself that my labours will be duly
appreciated.

As it is not intended in this Preface to give directions,
but merely to show the object of the work, I would here
inform the reader, that the general remarks for the manage-
ment of the Kitchen Garden, pages 13 to 30, explain the
method of destroying insects; of drilling, rolling, planting,
and managing the various soils; together with some useful
tables calculated to make the attentive reader thoroughly
acquainted with the ait of gardening.

T. BRIDGEMAN.

CONTENTS.

GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN
GARDEN.

a Page.

On laying out the ground, -

A blank-book recommended, - - - - - 14
Method of using manure, (note) - -15
Observations on improving various soils — and on sowing

seed early, - 16
The drilling system recommended, - -17

Remedies for the destruction of insects, (note, 19) - 18

On the most proper rotation of crops, - 21
A table showing the number of plants that may be

raised on s,n acre of land, at given distances, which

table may also be applied to other objects, 23

On the durability of the germinative properties of seed, 25
A table or classification of such species and varieties of

seed as are usually cultivated in the Kitchen Garden, 26

Explication of the above table, - - 27

Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates, 30

A CATALOGUE OF CULINARY VEGETABLES ; WITH PRACTICAL
DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD.

[The Notes are chiefly calculated to guard against error in cultivation.]

Artichoke, - - 31

Asparagus, (note, 36) - 34

Beans, (English Dwarfs) 39
Beans, (Kidney Dwarfs)

(note) - - 41

Beans, (Pole or Running) 42

Beets, (note) - 44

Borecole or Kale, - 46

Brussels Sprouts, - 47

Broccoli, (note, 49) - 48

Cauliflower, (note, 52) - 51

Cabbage, (note, 55) - 54

Colewort or Collards, - 57

Cardoons, - 58

Carrot, - 58

Celery, (note, 61) - - 60

Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 63

Cress, - - 64

Cucumber, (note) - 65

Chives, or Gives, - - 66

CONTENTS.

Page.

Egg-plant, (note, 67) - 66

Peas, -

Page.

83

Endive, - 68

Potato,

85

Horse-radish, - 69

Potato, (Sweet,) -

86

Indian Corn, 70

Pumpkin,

87

Jerusalem Artichoke, - 70

Radish, (note)

88

Leek, - - 71

Rocambole,

89

Lettuce, (note) - -72

Rhubarb,

90

Melon, - 74

Salsify,

92

Melon, (Water) - - 75

Scorzonera,

93

Mustard, - - 76

Sea-Kale,

94

Nasturtium, - 76

Skirret,

97

Okra, - - 77

Shallot,

97

Onion, (note, 78) - - 77

Spinach, or Spinage, -

98

Parsley, (note, 80) - 79

Squash,

100

Parsnip, (note) - - 81

Tomato,

101

Pepper, - 82
A Catalogue of Aromatic, Pol

Turnip, (note, 104)
,, and Sweet Herbs,

102
106

Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Plants defined, -

106

Plants cultivated for Medicinal purposes, -

107

Directions for the cultivation and preservation of Herbs

in general,

108

Illustrations of drills, to be used for various kinds of seed,

109

Representation of a Hot-bed with four sashes,

112

Observations on Forcing Vegetables, -

114

Forcing Asparagus in Hot-beds,

117

Forwarding Broad Beans, or English Dwarfs,

119

Forcing Kidney Beans,

119

Forwarding Broccoli and Cauliflower,

120

Forcing Cucumbers at an early season,

121

Forwarding Cucumbers in April and May, -

124

Forwarding Lettuce for use in the winter, -

124

Forcing Mushrooms at all seasons,

125

Forwarding Melons on ridges under hand-glasses,

131

Forcing Peas in Hot-beds,

132

Forcing Potatoes in Hot-beds,

133

Forwarding Radishes and other vegetables,

134

Forwarding RhuBarb for use through the winter,

135

Forwarding Salad, Herbs, Small Plants, &c.,

136

Forwarding Tomatoes,

136

Forcing various kinds of vegetables, -

137

Method of cultivating the Hop, -

139

Observations on the weather, as influenced by changes

of the moon, - -

144

CONTENTS. XL

A table for prognosticating the weather through all the

lunations of the year, - - 146

Introduction to the Monthly Calendar, with directions

how to apply it to different climates, - - 147

.JANUARY. — Suggestions for the improvement of time in
reference to gardening — By collecting information
on the subject — By procuring fencing materials —
Manure and ingredients for the destruction of insects.

— Drilling machines and garden implements in
general, preparatory for the work to be performed

as the season progresses, - -148

FEBRUARY. — Directions for providing hot-bed frames,
forcing pits, and materials to be used for forcing and
forwarding vegetables, towards the end of the month

— Also, for sowing seed, - - 149
MARCH. — Recommendations on various subjects — As at-

tending to the hot-beds — regulating their tempera-
ture — sowing such kinds of seed as are adapted
to the season — Also, in manuring and digging the
soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting
it next month, - - 151

APRIL. — The importance of this month to an industrious
gardener exemplified — who is recommended to sow
all the various kinds of seed enumerated in the
Calendar — to attend to the spring dressing of his
beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea-Kale,
&c. — and to the Transplanting of various kinds of
plants in due season, - - 1,52

MAY. — Directions for destroying insects — and weeds —
to prevent their seeding in the ground — Also, for
sowing the various kinds of seed intended for
summer crops; including the Bene-plant, with a
view to have it for use in July. — This is also a
good season to spawn Mushroom beds, and to form
new ones, &c., - - 154

JUNE. — The principal sowing season being nearly over,
the gardener is reminded of the necessity of ascer- v
taining the success of former plantings, with a view
to make up deficiencies before the month is too far
advanced — Also, to hoe or plough between early
vegetables in general, in order to mature them —
and to destroy weeds — Directions for the manage-
ment of Artichokes, Cauliflower, Herbs, Hop
Vines, &c.. - .... 155

XII. CONTENTS.

Page.

JULY. — Directions for transplanting of Cabbage, Car-
doons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper Plants, &c.,
— Also, for the gathering and preserving of Aro-
matic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, as they come into
blossom — and for the cultivation of various sorts
of vegetables described in the Calendar, - - 157

AUGUST. — The planting season being nearly over, the
gardener is recommended to manure, dig, and
plough vacant ground for autumn crops — to attend
to Artichokes, Hops, Mushrooms, Onions, Shallots,
Turnips, &c., as directed, - - 158

SEPTEMBER. — The business of this month consists in
finishing the sowing of seed of the season — in ma-
turing various kinds of vegetables, by hoeing and
earthing — and in the gathering of Herbs, Hops,
&c., as they arrive at maturity, - - 159

OCTOBER. — Directions for preserving various plants and
vegetables — by planting Parsley, Lettuce, Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, &c., in frames — by providing pits
to contain Beets, Potatoes, &c., — and by laying
away Winter Squashes, Pumpkins, and other vege-
tables designated, for use through the winter, - 161

NOVEMBER. — The best methods described, of stowing
away for the winter; Broccoli, -Cauliflower, Cab-
bage, Cardoons, Carrots, Celery, Horse-radish,
Leeks, Turnips, and such other vegetables as need
protection — Also, directions for the winter dressing
of the beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb,
and Sea-Kale, - - 162

DECEMBER. — Hints on various subjects connected with
the preservation of plants, vegetables, and imple-
ments— and for collecting suitable manures, com-
post, &c., for nse next spring — Also, suggestions
for ploughing or trenching particular kinds of soil,
in order that it may be benefited by winter frost, 163

GENERAL REMARKS

ON THE %;j

MANAGEMENT OF A i

BEFORE commencing the Catalogue, it may be necessary
to direct the reader's attention to some important matters,
essential to the good management of a Kitchen Garden.

The mode of laying out the giound is a matter of taste,
and may be left to the gardener himself, the form being a
thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege-
tables; and it matters not whether the ground be laid out in
oeds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked,
and the garden kept neat arid free from weeds.

Those who have not a garden already formed, should,
nowever, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as
we have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader
to that which is within his reach, and ought to be the object
of every man, namely, to make the most of what he has.

To this end, he may form a border round the whole gar-
den, from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the
piece of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from
three to six feet wide ; the centre part of the garden may be
divided into squares, on the sides of which a border may be
laid out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds
of horbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants,
Raspberries, Strawberries, &c. The centre beds may be
planted with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside
oorders, facing the east, south, and west, will be useful for
raising the earliest fruits and vegetables ; and the north bor-
der, being shady and cool, will serve for raising and pricking

2

14 GENERAL REMARKS.

out such young plants, herbs, and cuttings, as require to be
screened from the intense heat of the sun.

It may be necessary to state farther, that though shady
situations are useful for the purpose of raising Celery, Cab-
bage, and other small plants, slips, &c., in the summer season,
all standard trees sHois.ld be excluded from a Kitchen Garden
for the folio whig reasons : First, their roots spread so widely,
and imbibe bo nuich « rnoisrare from the ground, that little is
left for the nourishment of any plant within the range of
their influence ; secondly, when in full leaf, they shade a
large space, and obstruct the free circulation of the air, so
essential to the well-being of all plants ; and, thirdly, the
droppings from trees are particularly injurious to whatever
vegetation they fall upon.

Previous to entering on the work of a garden, the gar-
dener should lay down rules for his future government. In
order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book,
in which he should first lay out a plan of his garden, allot-
ting a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends
to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his
grounds, if he should keep an account of every thing he does
relative to his garden, he would soon obtain some knowledge
of the art. This the writer has done for more than twenty
years, and he flatters himself that a publication of the results
of his practice will be interesting and useful to his readers.

If gardeners would accustom themselves to record the
dates and particulars of their transactions relative to tillage,
planting, &c., they would always know when to expect their
seed to come up, and how to regulate their crops for suc-
cession ; and, when it is considered that plants of the Bras-
sica, or Cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the roots, if
too frequently planted in the same ground, and that a rota-
tion of crops in general is beneficial, it will appear evident
that a complete register of every thing relative to culture is
essential to the well-being of a garden.

One important point to be attended to, is to have a supply

GENERAL REMARKS. 15

of good old manure, and other composts, ready to incorpo-
rate with the earth ; and also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco
dust, and lime, for the purpose of sowing over seed beds in
dry weather, to destroy insects, which sometimes cut off
young plants as fast as they come up.

If the ground cannot be all manured every year, as it
should be, it is of primary importance that those vegetables
be provided for which most need manure. A perusal of the
Catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the
kinds of garden products which require it most. Lest I
should not have been explicit enough in this particular, I
would inform him that good rich manure is indispensably ne-
cessary for the production of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage,
Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general.

In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of
vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be pro-
vided for by disposing of the manure immediately under the
seed or plants.*

The next important matter is to have the ground in suita-
ble condition to receive the seed. I wish it to be understood

* As some cultivators, by their method of using manure, show that they
have very erroneous ideas as to its real object or utility, I would remind
such, that manure should be applied with a view to renovate and strengthen
the natural soil, and not as a receptacle for seed. In order that manure
may have a salutary effect, it should be thoroughly incorporated with the
earth, by the operation of digging or ploughing. When it is used in hills
or on a given spot, it should be well pulverized and mixed with the earth
so as to form a compost. These remarks apply especially to strong ani-
mal manures, the excrements of fowls, as also to soaper's, tanner's, and
glue manufacturer's manure, rags, &c. Lime, ashes, bone dust, poudrette,
urate, salt, sulphur, gypsum, nitrate of potash, and other portable manures,
may be sown over the land previous to harrowing or raking it, or such
manures may be formed into a compost when used in hills or drills. They
should in every case be used with caution, as an indiscreet use of them
will destroy the seed or plants, and thus defeat the cultivator's object.
Many gardeners can corroborate these facts, from having used strong com-
post as a mould for their hot-beds, thereby poisoning the germs of the seed,
and causing the plants to die off prematurely ; and it is notorious that a
great proportion of failing crops is occasioned by an injudicious mode of
using manure

16 GENERAL REMARKS.

that I am an advocate for early sowing and planting, even at
the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to
receive it. A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked
when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make
it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clayey soil be worked
when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails to bind
when drought follows ; and this not only prevents the seed
from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subse-
quent growth, by its becoming impervious to moderate rains,
dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of which are
necessary to the promotion of vegetation.

Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recommend
certain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds
of seed; I think it necessary to guard my readers against being
misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the
observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seed
be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become
chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown
in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may
become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young
plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up.
To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week
or ten days for sowing the seed, intending the medium as the
proper time for the vicinity of New- York. With this clearly
borne in mind, the reader who observes the difference in the
degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country,
will know how to apply these instructions accordingly.

Much depends on the manures used on particular kinda
of soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils,
consists in giving the former such dressings of clay, cow
dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to
bind and make them more compact, and consequently, more
retentive of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung,
ashes, sand, and such other composts as may tend to sepa-
rate the particles arid open the pores of the clay, so as to
cause it to approach as nearly as possible to a loam.

GENERAL REMARKS.

17

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less
retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the
longer will it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which
the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water,
and, consequently, the longer in drying, and the harder when
dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long-
est, without becoming hard when dry, -is, of all others, the best
adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest
perfection. This last described soil is called loam, and is a
medium earth, between the extremes of clay and sand.

I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at
certain depths for the different kinds of seed ; and when I
have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is
intended that the seed should be covered only one inch,
which it will be when planted in these drills, and covered ;
and so in proportion for any other depth required. This
may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum-
stances alter cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops
should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be
far advanced, to risk a farther planting of seed, even if the
weather be hot and the ground dry. If this be planted a
little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and
in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffi-
ciently moist to bring it up ; whereas it sometimes happens
that seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the
season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection.

The work of drilling by thgse who have no machine, may
be performed in various ways ; in some cases a plough is
used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge
of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the
work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener
to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be
provided with two or three drilling machines ; these, every
handy man can make for himself; they should be in the
form of a garden rake, with a stout, heavy back, and five
teeth, about two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the

2*

18 GENERAL REMARKS.

ground, and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made
with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another
fourteen, they will be useful in making drills for the various
kinds of seed ; and drills thus made serve instead of strain-
ing a line when transplanting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants,
&c. ; the line being stretched at one edge of the bed, and
the drilling machine drawn straight by the line, makes five
drills at once. If they are straight, they may be kept so, by
keeping one drill open for the outside tooth to work in, until
the ground be all drilled.

Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed ;
some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow ; some
draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed, and after
sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed; in some
particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling
or treading in seed is necessary in dry seasons, but it should
never be done when the ground is wet.

There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips,
Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredations of the
fly, so well as rolling ; for when the surface is rendered com-
pletely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harboui
they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps
of earth. This method will be found more effectual than
soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants
with any composition whatever ; but as the roller must only
be used previous to or at the time of sowing the seed, and
not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the
gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry
weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime,
soot, cowdung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these
ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or
poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown into
a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately over
beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost every
case, insure a successful crop.

Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects ; it is

GENERAL REMARKS. 19

also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan-
tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four
gallons of water. This liquid, applied to plants through the
rose of a watering-pot, will preserve health and vigour.
Soapsuds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the
same manner — say once a week. These remedies, applied
alternately, have been known to preserve Melon and Cucum-
ber vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight,
&c., and to keep the plants in a thiiving condition.

As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a large
piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are numerous,
to sow tobacco dust, mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, lime,
or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a bushel per
acre, every morning, unfel the plants are free or secure frond
their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes sprout in forty-
eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week
after it is sown ; but it sometimes happens that the whole is
destroyed before a plant is seen above ground ; the seeds-
man, in this case, is often blamed, but without cause.*

A correspondent has communicated the result of an exper-
iment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or fleas
on Turnips. He says, " Steep your seed iri a pint of warm
water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of salt-
petre ; then dry the seed, and add currier's oil sufficient to
wet the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, so
as to separate and render it fit for sowing." Fish oil is

* As the truth of the old adage, That one ounce of prevention is of more
value than a pound of cure, is very generally admitted, I would recom-
mend the following method of preparing a bed for the purpose of raising
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and such other plants as are subject to the
attacks of insects : After digging or ploughing the ground in the usual
way, collect any combustibles that are attainable, as dried weeds, sedge,
turf, brushwood, leaves, stubble, corn-stalks, sawdust, or even litter from
the dung-heap, which should be placed in heaps on the seed-beds and
burned to ashes ; then rake the ground over and sow the seed, which will
not be attacked by insects while the effects of the fire remain. In the
event of extremely dry weather, water the beds every evening until the
plants are in full leaf. This is an infallible remedy.

20 GENERAL REMARKS.

known to be destructive to ants and various other small
insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants.

In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
&c., are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and
caterpillars ; £o prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible,
but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; this
may be done by searching for them on their first appearance,
and destroying them. Early in the morning, grubs may be
collected from the earth, within two or three inches of such
plants as they may have attacked the night previous.

The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves
of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin
by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed on
them ; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the fire,
a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ; whereas,
if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so rapidly,
that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, may
become infested ; and, when once these arrive at the butterfly
or moth stage of existence, they become capable of perpetu-
ating their destructive race to an almost unlimited extent
The same remarks apply to all other insects in a torpid state.

Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away by
sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the proportion of two to
three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally
with salt arid water, using about two pounds of salt to foui
gallons of water ; or the slug kind may be easily entrapped
on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of turnip on them
late in the evening ; the slug or snail will readily crowd on
them, and may be gathered up early in the morning (before
sunrise) and destroyed.

Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing
the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar.
First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur-
rows ;.>then dip others in tar, and pass them through into the
floor of the burrows, being careful not to rub off the tar in
the operation. Tar is also an effectual remedy against smut

GENERAL REMARKS. 21

in wheat : after being heated in a kettle until it becomes
thin, it may be stirred in among the grain until it becomes
saturated. The wheat should afterward be mixed with a
sufficient quantity of wood ashes to dry and render it fit for
sowing.

To prevent depredations from crows, steep corn in strong
saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed corn ;
and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field.

Perhaps the next important point to be attended to is the
most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso-
pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that " THE TRUE

REPOSE OP THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS."

It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the
poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be de-
stroyed by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene-
rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vege-
tables have grown, and into which they have discharged the
excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the prosperity
of plants of the same or allied species, though it be well
adapted to the growth and support of other distinct species
of vegetables.

It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excellent
preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and all other
tap, as well as tuberous rooted vegetables.

Celery or Potatoes constitute a suitable preparative for
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica
tribe; as also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce, and Onions,
provided such ground be well situated, which is a circum-
stance always to be duly considered in laying out a garden.

Lands that have long lain in pasture are, for the first three
or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage, Tur-
nips, Potatoes, &c., and afterward for culinary vegetables in
general.

The following rules are subjoined for farther government :

Fibrous rooted plants may be alternated with tap or
tuberous rooted, and vice versa.

22 GENERAL REMARKS.

Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to shad^ the
land, to be succeeded by such as yield small tops, or narrow
leaves.

Plants which during their growth require the operation of
Stirling the earth, to precede such as do not admit of such
culture.

Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara-
gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain long
on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rotation of
crops, for at least as long a period as it remained under such
permanent crops. Hence, in all gardens judiciously man-
aged, the Strawberry bed is changed every three or four
years, till it has gone the circuit of all the compartments ;
and Asparagus beds, &c., should be renewed on the same
principle, as often as they fail to produce luxuriantly. In-
deed, no two crops should be allowed to ripen their seed in
succession in the same soil, if it can be avoided ; because, if
it be not exhausted by such crops, weeds will accumulate
more than on beds frequently cultivated.

Manure should be applied to the most profitable and ex-
hausting crops ; and the succession of crops should be so
arranged, that the ground may be occupied by plants either
valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to the in-
creased value of those which are to follow ; and the value of
the labour required to mature vegetables, and prepare them
for market, should be always taken into consideration.

Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, Celery,
Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb,
Salsify, Spinach, &:c., will not vegetate freely in dry weather,
unless the ground be watered or rolled ; where there is no
roller on the premises, the following contrivance may answer
for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown, and the
ground well raked, take a board the whole length of the bed,
lay it flat on the ground, begin at one edge of the bed, and walk
the whole length of it ; this will press the soil on the seed,
then shift the board till you have gone over the whole bed.

GENERAL REMARKS.

23

In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet,
or strike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel •
but this should not be done when the ground is wet.

If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in extremely dry
weather, it? is recommended to soak the seed in water, and
dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water-
ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily.

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the
ground is dry, the transplanting should always be done as
soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants,
before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made
of rich compost.

I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in
drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference
to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily
destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used,
greatly promotes the growth of young plants.

The following table may be useful to the gardener, in
showing the number of plants or trees that may be raised on
an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-men-
tioned distances :

Distance apart. No. of Plants.

1 foot 43,560

U feet 19,360

2 feet 10,890

2i feet 6,969

3 feet 4,840

4 feet 2,722

5 feet 1,742

6 feet 1,210

Distance apart. No. of Plants.

9 feet 537

12 feet 302

15 feet 193

18 feet 134

21 feet 98

24 feet 75

27 feet 59

30 feet , 48

The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are
not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows
at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares

24 GENERAL REMARKS.

of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, snows
that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty
feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square,
or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the
same quantity of land. An allowance of about .one-eighth
must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks
and paths.

The table may also serve to show the gardener how to
dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted
for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three
hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve
feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure
to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same
distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred
loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into
three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every
load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion
to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose
to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may
make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred
and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case
by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only
forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the
quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap
to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so
as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure
he may allot to any given quantity of ground.

As it may not be generally known that some kinds of
seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner
than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for
the gardener's government, provided the seed is carefully
preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp
ness:

GENERAL REMARKS.

Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-like seeds, cannot
oe safely trusted after they are a year old.

Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot,
Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera,
and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years.

Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let-
tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Spinach seed, may with
care be preserved three years.

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and
Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to.

Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash,
also, Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel seed, have been known to
grow freely when five and even seven years old ; but it is not
prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of
which we are not certain.

In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise
seed either for their own use or for the market, I would
observe that great care is necessary, as it is an indubitable
fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other,
degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult
for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to
their kind, in any one garden.

If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for
seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed
some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they
had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour,
they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as
this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like
cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal
frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders very fre-
quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at
length break out with all their vigour; I would therefore
advise seed growers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing
out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties
among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will in-
fallibly have spurious seed.

3

GENERAL REMARKS.

TABLE AND EXPLICATION.

*.£* IN order to aid the novice in gardening, the following
brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise
our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre-
sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table,
will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar-
dener and seedsman.

CATALOGUE.

i
^

Half-Hardy.

Tender.

Quick
in Germinating. I

Medium
in Germinating. 1

1

-~!
1

c

J|

5 -

ai

e)*->
O

Most
essential
Nutriment.

1

Moisture

Asparagus

Q

..0. .
.0 .

..0. .

. .0..

Beans (English Dwarfs)

.0.

. .0. .

. .0..

Beans (Kidney do)

0

. 0

Beans (pole)

o

0

..0..

Beet

..0

.0. .

..0..
..0..

Borecole, or Kale, &c

..0..

. 0..

. .0. .

..0. .

. .0..

..0..

..0. .

. .0..

Celery

..0..

. .0. .

..0..

. .0..

Corn8i>!ad

..0..

o

. .0-.

. .0..

. .0. .

..0. .
..0..

0

..0. .

..0..

o

. .0. .

Leek

. 0- •

. .0. .

. .0. .

| Lettuce

. 0

o

. .0..

. .0. .

Melon (musk)

o

o

..0..

Melon (water)

u

. .0 .

..0..
. .Q. .

' 'o* *

Okra

..0..

o

. .

Parsley

: o'.' '.'. "

o

o

Parsnip

. .0.

o

o

Peppers

. 0.

Q

0

.0

Pe.is

. .0. .

.0 .

. 0..

o

o

o

Radish...

..0

o

o

Salsify

. .0. .

. 0

0.

o

o

o

o

o

0

'n' '

..0..
n

n"

n

In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to
premise, that in the classification, as regards the germinating
powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some
of those denominated medium were put upon an equal foot-
ing with some of the class denominated quick-growing, they
would vegetate in about the same time. For instance, Peas

GENERAL REMARKS. 27

would sprout as quick as Kidney Beans, with the same tem-
perature ; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a
month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the
same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary
to their germination.

Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re-
quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not
attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are
the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally
obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such seed at the
most favourable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot,
Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until
dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint
merit and loss thereby. *

As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed
to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such
of their error, offer a few observations under each head of
the table.

The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half-
hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un-
fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold
rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive a
severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is

* As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous
to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here offer a few ob-
servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con-
sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli-
mates of the earth, have each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever
they may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification
in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their
error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will
grow best in summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is
moisture, must be raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary
to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little
can be done before the approach of warm weather ; it should therefore be
our object to improve the autumn months in the cultivation of such vege-
tables as can be brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having
under each head of the Calendar recommended the most appropriate seasons
for the different articles, it is unnecessary to dilate faither here, except to
invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto.

28 GENERAL REMARKS.

frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of
plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard
winter, are often cut off by very slight frost while germinating,
especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty
night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, Celery,
Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the
ordinary winters of England, are here classed as half-hardy,
for the reasons above stated.

The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish
from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often
to be replanted three or four times in the month of May,
before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants,
Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of
the weather ; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of
tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse
to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected
or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under
the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things
in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them-
selves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, instead
of throwing blame on the seedsman.

The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties as,
from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very liable
to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the
surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout within forty-
eight hours after being sown ; and under favourable circum-
stances, most of the species of this class will come up within
a week ; but if insects attack the seed beds iri dry weather,
a total loss of crops will be the consequence. Every expe-
rienced farmer is convinced of this fact, by having frequently
to sow his Turnip ground three or four times before he can
get any to stand.

Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to
grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardenei
should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in

GENERAL REMARKS. 29

general, and especially to those in which plants are raised
for the purpose of being transplanted.

Those species and varieties embraced in the fifth and sixth
columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege-
tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by
cold, others by excess of dry weather ; and at such times,
seed 'may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the
event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants
often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other
untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or
accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar-
dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often
occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground,
or left too near the surface ; sometimes, for want of suffi-
ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants will perish,
they not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the
earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma-
nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat.

I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the
seventh rnnge of the preceding tahle, such plants as are gene-
rally cultivated first in seed beds, arid afterward transplanted
for the purpose of being accommodated with space to mature
in, with a view to answer at once the thousand and one
questions asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter.

Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of
raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when
an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example,
an ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand plants.
An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three to four
thousand, sufficient, when transplanted, to cover nearly half
an acre of land, which land, if sown with Spinach, for
instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed.

To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would observe,
in conclusion, that many other vegetables will admit of
being transplanted besides those designated in our table ;
but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from

3*

30 GENERAL REMARKS.

the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para-
mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would
be the case, under ordinary circumstances, with the gene-
rality of those plants not thus designated.

Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for
the future follow the example of the truly eccentric Aber-
nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books,
which contain an answer to every important question that
has been put to me on the subject of gardening 'since I
became an author.

T. BRIDGEMAN.

*#* PREVIOUS to the commencement of our Catalogue, it
may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions
which follow are founded on the results of practical experi-
ence in the vicinity of NEW- YORK CITY, where the soil is
generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the
end of March. These directions may, however, be applied
to all other parts of the UNITED STATES, by a minute observ-
ance of the difference in temperature.

In the extreme northern parts of the State of New- York,
as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions
for the beginning of April will apply to the latter end of
the same month, with very few exceptions.

In our SOUTHERN STATES, the directions for APRIL,
which may be considered as the first gardening month in the
EASTERN, WESTERN, and MIDDLE STATES, will apply to Janu-
ary, February, or to whatever season gardening operations
may commence in the respective States.

In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same
rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen-
dar, success is certain.

• &&& "**
CATALOGUE,

&c., Sec-

ARTICHOKE.
ARTICHAUT. Cynara.

VARIETIES.
Cynara Scolymus, or French. I Cynara Hortensis, or Globe.

THE garden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe,
and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It
is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its
large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July,
until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which
produces large globular heads, is best for general culture,
the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts
more thick and plump.

Both sorts may be raised from seed, * or young suckers
taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of Arti-
chokes will produce good heads six or seven years, and
sometimes longer ; but it must be observed, that if a supply
of this delicious vegetable be required throughout the season,
a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring,
for a successive crop, as the young plants will continue to
produce their heads in perfection, after the crops of the old
standing ones are over.

The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes
from seed, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March, or
at any time in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may
be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches
apart. The /ground should be light and moist, not such as is
apt to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of

* One ounce of seed will produce about six hundred plants

32 ARTICHOKE.

containing too large a proportion of sand, is liable to become
violently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to
these plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept
free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them.

The business of transplanting may be done in cloudy or
wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to
twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and
situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench
the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incor-
porating the manure therewith ; this being done, take up
the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and
dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble,- in rows five
feet asunder, and v two feet from plant to plant, leaving part
of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants
free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little
water to settle the roots.

The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important opera-
tion; on. it depends much of their future success. This
should not be given them as long as the season continues
mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growth,
and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather ; but
it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden setting
in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Northern
States, the work be neglected, and the plants consequently
exposed to devastation and loss.

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the
ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts
of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the
middle, between each row, from fourteen to sixteen inches
wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed.
Then dig the surface of the beds lightly from trench to
trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the
earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about
six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves,
without burying them entirely under it ; this done, dig the
trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally

ARTICHOKE. 33

between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the
ridges, giving them, at the same time, a neat rounding form;
finish by casting up with a shovel the loose earth out of i the
bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in order that
the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately
run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen-
tle declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in
winter is the greatest evil and danger to which they are expos-
ed, even greater than the most seveie frosts to which we are
subject.

The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance
of hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung,
litter, leaves of tree's, or the like, the better to preserve the
crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots
will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the
very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and
when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above
ground, or rather when they are one or two inches up, then,
and not till then, proceed to level down the beds, throwing
the earth into the alleys or trenches, and round them in a
neat manner ; then dig in the short nianure, and loosen all
the earth around the plants. At the same time, examine the
number of shoots arising on each stool, and select three of
the strongest and healthiest looking on every stool, which are
to remain ; all above that number are to be slipped off close
to the roots with the hand, unless you want some to make
new plantations with, in which case an extra number for that
purpose are to remain on the parent plants, until <they are
about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction
with the. old plants, when they are to be slipped off, and
planted in a bed prepared in the same manner as directed
for the young plants, taking care, at the same time, to close
the earth about the crowns of the roots, and draw it up a
little to the remaining suckers.

Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants
are in the above-described state, whether that happens in

34 ASPARAGUS.

February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of
climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late-
ness of the spring.

The gardeners near London generally take off the side
suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size
of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar-
kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger
and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti-
choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should
always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre ;
the stem should be cut close to the ground at the same
time.

Artichokes are esteemed a luxury by epicures. To have
them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold water
as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well
washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot, with
a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which generally
requires, for full-grown Artichokes, from an hour and a half
to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ; then
serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such
other condiment as may best suit the palate.

ASPARAGUS.
ASPERGE. Asparagus officinalis.

VARIETIES.

Gravesend. I Large Battersea.

Large White Reading. Large Green, or Giant.

THIS plant is a native of cold climates, and is found grow-
ing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten by the
cattle the same as grass. It will endure the severity of our
winters, and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ;
but as garden products are generally scarce after a hard

ASPARAGUS. 35

winter, the gardener who studies his interest will make the
most of the spring season, and raise all he can before ths
market becomes glutted ; to this end, he is recommended to
prepare for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of
the winter is past. (See article on Forcing Vegetables.)

Asparagus may be raised by sowing .he seed in the fall
as soon as ripe, or in March and the early part of April.
One ounce of seed will produce about a thousand plants. It
requires some of the best ground in the garden. The seed
may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and
covered about an inch with light earth. When the plants
are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if well culti-
vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough
to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in
the nursery bed until they are two years old.

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds ar\e properly dressed
every year, will produce good buds for twenty years or more.

New plantations of Asparagus may be made in autumn,
or before the buds get far advanced in spring, say in Febru-
ary, March, or April, according to situation and circum-
stances. The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too
strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and plia-
ble, so that it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking,
and in a situation that enjoys the full rays of the sun. It
should have a large supply of well rotted dung, three or four
inches thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades
deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or
fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is
done, lay two or three inches of thoroughly rotted manure
over the whole surface, and dig the ground over again eight
or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorpo-
rating it well with the earth.

In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground
thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four
rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between
each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from

36 A&l'ARAGUS.

the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill
close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side
next the line nearly upright ; when one trench is opened,
plant that before you open another, placing the plants upright
ten or twelve inches distant in the row, and let every row
be twelve inches apart.

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the
trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that
the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or
three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their
roots, somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and
at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with
the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due
position until the row is planted ; when one row is thus
placed, with a rake or hoe draw the earth into the trench
over the plants, and then proceed to open another drill or
trench, as before directed ; and fill and cover it in the same
manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the sur-
face of the beds be raked smooth and clear from stones, &c.

Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads,
place their plants sixteen inches apart in the rows, instead of
twelve ; and by planting them in the quincunx manner, that
is, by commencing the second row eight inches from the end
of the first, and the fourth even with the second, the plants
will form rhomboidal squares, instead of rectangular ones,
and every plant will thus have room to expand its roots and
leaves luxuriantly.*

* The above directions are intended for famUy gardens. Those who
may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities for market, should'prepare
the ground with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed, which may be
carried to any length required. If several beds are wanted, they may be
planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that the plough may
be worked freely between them. Frequent ploughing will cause the roots
to spread, so as to widen the beds, and the winter dressing may be per-
formed in a great measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut,
the ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted with Cabbage,
Potatoes, or any other vegetable usually cultivated in rows

ASPARAGUS. 37

WINTER DRESSING OF ASPARAGUS BEDS.

About the beginning of November, if the stalks of Aspar-
agus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished
their growth for the season, cut them down close to the
earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds care-
fully from weeds.

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good
manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three
inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose,
(which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite
down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots
will be greatly benefited ; as the winter rains will wash the
manure down among them. It is the practice with some
gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and
cover the beds with the soil taken out ; this may be done for
the first two years after the beds are made, but not afterward ;
as, when the plants are in full growth, their roots and crowns
extend into the alleys, and digging them up frequently de-
stroys plants, or renders them too weak to produce buds in
perfection. The beds will be greatly benefited if covered
to the depth of several inches with leaves, sea-weed, or long
litter from the livery stables.

The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight dressing,
that is, clear the bed from weeds, and then spread light dung
over it, to the depth of one or two inches, to defend the
crown of the plants from frost.

SPRING DRESSING OF THE BEDS.

This work should be done from about the latter end of
March to the middle pf April, or just before the buds begin
to rise. After clearing away all long litter, or whatever may
encumber the ground, spread the short dung over the whole
surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the same time,
it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken
at this season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the
fork, but forking the beds should not be neglected, as admit-

38 ASPARAGUS.

ting the sun and rain into the ground, induces the plants to
throw up buds of superior size ; to promote such a desirable
object, the ground should be kept clear of weeds at all sea-
sons, as these greatly impoverish the soil, and frequently
smother the plants.

The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in great per-
fection, and sometimes have buds weighing from three to
five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopaedia of
Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely
under this crop for the London market.

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to
cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of
planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three
or four inches high, they will bear extensive cutting, which
should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are
thrown up. The best way of cutting is to slip the knife
down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off slan-
tingly, about three or four inches beneath the ground, taking
care not to wound any young buds proceeding from the
same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in
different stages of growth.

Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and
should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well
washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds
each, and boiled in water slightly seasoned with salt, until
tender, which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up
before it loses its true colour and flavour, and serve it up on
toasted bread, with melted butter, &c.

BEANS. 39

BEANS. (English Dwarfs.)
FEVE DE MARAIS. Vicia faba,

^ VARIETIES.

Early Mazagan.
Early Lisbon.
Early Long Pod.
Large Windsor.
Large Toker.
Broad Spanish.

Sandwich Bean.
Green Genoa.
Dwarf Cluster.
White Blossom.
Green Nonpareil.
Sword Long Pod.

THE principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed-
ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them
before they are podded, which causes the blossom to drop
off prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be
planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended
in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are
generally planted in England, from October to April, for
early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It
sometimes happens that autumn plantings are injured by the
coldness of their winters, but an average crop is generally
obtained.

In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if a few of
the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open
ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into good
condition, they will come into bearing in regular succession,
according to their different degrees of earliness, and plant-
ings may be repeated every ten days of the first spring
month ; but it is only from those that are planted early that
any tolerable produce can be expected, as they become defi-
cient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the approach of
extreme warm weather.

In the Southern States they may be planted in succession
throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause
them to bear early in the ensuing season.

The best mode of planting is in drills, drawn two inches
deep, in which the seed Beans may be dropped two or throe

40 BEANS.

inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may be
from two to three feet asunder. A strong clayey soil is the
most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light
ground, provided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the
Beans are planted.

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they
will need a careful hoeing ; and .if some earth be drawn up
to their stems, three or four times in the course of their
growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them.

When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin
to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the
proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as
well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops
to nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support
of the fruit.

Broad Beans are particularly subject to green bugs. To-
bacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ,
but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance,
and pick off that part on which they first settle, and burn it ;
or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they will
produce fresh shoots, which may bear a good crop.

One quart of 'seed Beans will be required for every sixty
feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about
two inches apart, and the largest four inches.

The beans should be gathered young, and shelled while
fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in
plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley.
They take from thirty to forty minutes to boil, according to
age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &c. ;
but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork,
or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon

BEANS. 41

BEANS. (Kidney Dwarfs.)
HARICOT. Phaseohis vulgaris, etc.

VARIETIES.

Early Denmark.

Early Mohawk.

Early Valentine.

Early Yellow Six Weeks.

Early Dun-coloured, or Quaker.

Early Chini Dwarf.

Early Rachel, or Quail's Head.

Early Rob Roy.

Early Black Dwarf.

Large White Kidney Dwarf.

White Cranberry Dwarf.

Red Cranberry Dwarf.

Yellow Cranberry Dwarf.

Refugee, or Thousand to One.

Marble Swiss Bean.

Royal Dwarf Kidney, or French.

THESE varieties of Beans, being natives of India, South
America, and other warm climates, will not endure the least
cold, and it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in
the open ground until settled warm weather. The earliest
varieties, if planted toward the end of April or the first week
in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks
after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer
in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account.
These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted in
the months of May and June ; and if a regular succession
of young beans be required throughout the summer, some
of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, fron^the
last week in April until the beginning of August.*

These Beans require a light, rich soil, in which they should
be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two
inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each
other ; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The
Refugees do best when planted in hills. As the Beans pro-
gress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some

* Some gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to begin plantirtg
too soon in the season, and very frequently lose their first crops. It should
be recollected, that these Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons as re-
gards tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the
planting be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk is
the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the middle
of April, but it is much safer to delay the planting of any quantity until
towards .he end of the month.

4*

42 BEANS.

earth up to their stems at the same time, which will cause
them soon to be fit for the table.

One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred
and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the
Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two hundred
and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, allowing
six Beans to every foot.

These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough
before they are gathered ; be careful in trimming them, to
strip off the strings. To effect this desirable object, break
them across ; and, in order to preserve their greenness, soak
them in salted water for a short time, then put them into the
water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned
with salt. When they are tender, which will be in from fif-
teen to twenty minutes, take them up and drain them through
a collander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a
due share of gravy, melted butter, &c.

BEANS. (Pole or Running.)
HARICOTS A RAMES.

Phctseolus Limensis.

VARIETIES.

Large White Lima. I Speckled Lima

Phaseolus JVLultiflorus

VARIETIES.

Scarlet Runners.
White Dutch Runners.
Dutch Case Knife, or Princess.
Asparagus, or Yard Long.

London HorticulturaL
French Bicolour.
Red Cranberry.
White Cranberry.

THESE species and varieties of Beans may be planted
early in the month of May and in June, either in hills three
feet distant from each other, or in drills about two inches
deep, and the Beans two or three inches apart in the drills.

BE.VNS. 43

The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed
in the ground before the Beans are planted.

The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in the
open groumd until the second week in May, unless the sea-
son be very favourable, and the ground warm. As these
Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let
six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole,
and afterward thinned, leaving three or four good plants in
a hill, which hills should be full four feet distant from each
other every way.

The soil for Running Beans should be the same as for
Dwarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than
any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost,
mixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial.

If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons,
they may be planted in flower-pots, in April, and placed in
a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in
May, with the balls of eaith entire, will come into bearing ten
or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first instance,
are planted in the open ground.

It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one
hundred hills. A quart of the smallest-sized Pole Beans will
plant three hundred hills and upward, or about two hundred
and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go about
as far as the Lima Beans.

Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in
plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from fif-
teen to twenty minutes. The mode of cooking and prepar-
ing the other sorts, is the same as for Kidney Dwarfs.

44 BEET.

BEET.

BETTERAVE. Beta mdgaris.
VARIETIES.

Early Blood Turnip-rooted.
Early Long Blood.
Extra Dark Blood.
Yellow Turnip-rooted.

Early Scarcity.
Mangel Wurtzel.
French Sugar, or Silesia.
Sir John Sinclair's.

BEETS, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best
blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their
roots, which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable
for pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced,
make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants
are an excellent substitute for Spinach.

The Mangel Wurtzel and Sugar Beets are cultivated for
cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves and roots with great
avidity. They are excellent food for swine, and also for
milch cows ; and possess the quality of making them give a
large quantity of the best-flavoured milk. The roots are
equally fit for oxen and horses, after being cut up into small
pieces and mixed with cut straw, hay, or other dry feed.*

A small bed of the earliest Turnip-rooted, and other es-
teemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early
ground the first week in April, which, being well attended
to, will produce good roots in June.

Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches deep ;
drop the seed along the drills one or two inches from each

* An acre of good, rich, loamy soil has been known to yield two thou-
sand bushels of beet-roots, some of which weighed from fifteen to twenty
pounds each. To produce such enormously large roots, they should be
cultivated in drills from two to three feet apart, and the plants thinned to
ten or twelve Inches in the rows. It is generally conceded, however, that
moderate-sized roots contain more saccharine matter, in proportion to their
bulk, than extra large roots, and that twenty tons, or about seven hundred
bushels, are a very profitable crop for an acre of land, and would be amply
sufficient to feed ten cows for three or four months of the year. A gen-
tleman in Connecticut computes the products of one-fourth of an acre of
good land, at eight tons, which, he says, will support a cow the whole
year. He allows five tons to feed on for nine months, and the other three
tons to be sold, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of other food, to
be given from the time the roots fail in the spring, until new roots are
produced.

BEET. 4«5

other, and cover them with earth. When the plants are up
strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches from
each other in the rows. The ground should be afterward
hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds.

If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed
until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better
than those from earlier planting, which, from being frequently
stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, become
tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case of the
failure of crops, or of unfavourable weather in June, Beet
seed planted the first week in July will sometimes produce
large, handsome roots, which may be preserved for winter use.

The most suitable ground for Beets is that which has been
well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh ma-
nure, provided it be well pulverized. *

It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops
are used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for
this purpose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those
that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the sum-
mer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots
intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or
early in November, and stowed away, as directed in the
calendar for those months.

Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan,
it will require at the rate of ten pounds for an acre of land,
which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce
for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field sys-
tem, that is, by planting them a sufficient distance apart to
admit of ploughing between each row, one half the quantity
of seed will be sufficient, or even less, if sown regular. If
it be an object with the cultivator to save his seed, he may
drop some in each spot where a plant is required, and thin
them as before directed.

It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed
will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains
four or five small seed, thinning out the surplus plants is in-
dispensable to the production of good roots.

46 BORECOLE, OR KALE.

BORECOLE, OR KALE.
CHOU FRISE VERT. Brassica oleracea, etc.

VARIETIES.

Green Curled, or Scotch.
Dwarf Brown, or German.
Purple Fringed.

Jerusalem, or Buda.
Cesarean Kale.
Thousand-headed Cabbage.

THERE are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants
besides those above specified, most of which have large open
heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or
Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Europe for the
table ; and the coarse and tall-growing are considered pro-
fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage, and Ce-
sarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high,' and branch
out. from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves
and sprouts in the winter and spring.

For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in
every respect as Winter Cabbage. The seed may be sown
from about the middle of May to the first week in June, and
the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground.
They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by
smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate, particu-
larly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in
the greatest perfection during the winter months ; they will
also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered warm
situation, bear the winter of the Western States ; and may
be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken
up before the frost sets in with much severity, and placed in
trenches, up to their lower leaves, and then covered with
straw or other light covering : the heads may be cut off
as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems
being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious
greens.

One ounce of good Borecole seed will produce about four
thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by
ten, or thereabout.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 47

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
CHOU DE BRUXELLES AGETS. Brassica oleracea.

THIS plant frequently grows from three to five feet high,
and produces from the stem small heads resembling cabbages
in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diameter.
The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when planted late.
The sprouts are used as winter greens, and they become
very tender when touched by the frost.

The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the
same manner as Borecole, and the plants set out with a dib-
ble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in
every respect as for Borecole.

Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New-York
markets with greens early in the epring season, when vege-
tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rape,
(Brassica Rapus ;) it being a good substitute for Brussels
Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter.
If Rape seed be sown early in September, the plants will
survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or sprouts
early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is suscepti-
ble of cultivation in the spring, say the last week in March.
The sprouts should be cut while young, as such greens then
command the best prices, and are more palatable than when
far advanced in growth.

It may be necessary to add that, in cooking these sprouts,
as also Kale, Colewort, and greens in general, they should
be put into hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling
briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their
natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the water,
which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more tender
in the absence of meat.

48 BROCCOLI.

BROCCOLI.
CHOU BROCOLI, Brassica oleracea Italica.

VARIETIES.

Early White.
Early Dwarf Purple.
Early Green.
Dwarf Brown.
Large Late Purple.

Large Purple Cape.
White Cape, or Cauliflower.
Sulphur-coloured Cape.
Branching Purple.
Large Late Green.

THE several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be
justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden.
They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The
Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich, seedy
pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green
colour, some purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds
so exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarcely
distinguishable, either in colour or taste.

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater
part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as
Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the purple Cape
Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of America ;
but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly aban-
doned, on account of the ill success attending former attempts
to bring them to perfection.

In some of the Southern States, where the winters are not
more severe than in England, they will stand in the open
ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from No-
vember to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle
States, if the seed of the late kinds be sown in April, and
the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated
in the same manner as Cauliflower, it would be the most
certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; but as
only a part of these crops can be expected to come to per-
fection before the approach of winter, the remainder will
have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered up
with earth to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situation,
to promote the finishing of their growth.

KROCCOLI..

49

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli-
flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varietiea
in succession throughout the winter months, should have
places erected similar to some of our greenhouses : the back
and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being after-
ward covered with fresh stable dung, will keep out the frost.
The place allotted for Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should
have a glazed roof to face the south ; the sashes must be
made to take off in mild weather, but they should be always
kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or
boards, litter, &c., so effectually as to keep out the frost.

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without
glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in
extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh
stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it
will be necessary to shade them from the full rays of the sun
until they are thawed ; this may be done by shaking a little
straw on the bed as they lay. **

It may not, perhaps, be generally understood, that the sud-
den transition from cold to heat is more destructive to vege-
tables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen,
and cannot be screened from the full rays of the sun, they
should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they
begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and may be the
means of saving the plants.

The proper time for sowing the seed of Purple Cape
Broccoli is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May : *
those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping

* It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape
Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any other variety, and, also,
that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in growth by extreme
heat, they seldom arrive at full perfection. .It is, therefore, important that
the time of sowing the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regulated as to allow,
Bay six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, previous to their
being transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks between that and the
commencement of cool autumn weather, which is essential to mature them.

If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so early that the
plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become

5

50 BROCCOLI.

of the other kinds, may sow seed of the most esteemed varie-
ties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a
week apart.

In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this
season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best
to sow it in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apart,
in which case, one ounce of seed will occupy a border of
about four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce
about four thousand strong plants. (See article Cabbage.)

In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of suffi-
cient size, they should be transplanted into extraordinarily rich
ground, which should be previously brought into good con-
dition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a
half apart, and two feet distant in the rows. As soon as
they have taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and
repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth,
drawing some earth around their stems.

Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed,
will come to perfection early in September and in October ;
the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes-
sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to
their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial cli-
mate be provided for them. These, of course, with what-
ever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to be taken
up early in October, and laid in carefully, with the roots and
stems covered with earth as far as their lower leaves. Those
who have not a place provided, may keep a few in frames,
or in a light cellar ; but every gardener and country gentle-
man should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that
yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries
of the garden are comparatively out of our reach.

stunted, they generally button, instead of forming perfect heads of flowers,
and are consequently of no use but for cattle.

In some of the Southern States, late planting of Broccoli and Cauliflower
succeeds better than early, because the winters are calculated to mature
these vegetables, from their not being subject to injury from slight frost, in
a late stage of their growth.

CAULIFLOWER. 51

CAULIFLOWER.
CHOUPLEUR. Brassica oleracea botrytis.

VARIETIES.

Early White. I Late White.

Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower.

THIS is a first rate vegetable, to obtain which, great pains
must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of
heat and cold being very much against it : which circum-
stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain-
able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely
attributes to defectiveness of the seed.

To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown be-
tween the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a
bed of clean, rich earth. In about four or five weeks after-
ward, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, at
the distance of four inches from each other every way ; this
bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered
with glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should
be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root ;
they will afterward require light and air every mild day
throughout the winter; but the outsides of the frames musl.
be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered,
as to keep out all frost.

The plants should be well attended to until the time of
transplanting in the spring ; and those who have not hand or
bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the latter
end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week
in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the
distance of eight or nine inches apart ; this would prevent
them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this be not
done, some of the strongest plants should be taken out of the
beds and planted in flower pots, which may afterward be
placed in a frame or greenhouse, until the weather be warm
and settled, which may be expected soon after the middle of

52 CAULIFLOWER.

April. They should then be turned out with the balls of
earth entire, and transplanted into a bed of the richest earth
in the garden, at the distance of two feet and a half from
each other every way; the residue may be taken up from the
frame the last week in April, or earlier, if the season proves
mild, by means of a garden trowel, and transplanted as
above.*

The plants should afterward be well cultivated, by hoeing
the ground deep around them, and bringing some earth grad-
ually up to their stem, so as to push them forward before the
approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn
up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between the
rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They
should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather; those
out of flower twice a week, and those in, every other day,
which will contribute to their producing very large heads. As
the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be broken
down over them, to defend them from the sun and rain, in
>rder that the heads or pulps may be close, and of their nat-
ural colour.

Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed to
succeed best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced
from seed sown in a hot-bed toward the end of January, or
early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the
bed in good condition to receive the seed; when the plants
are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they pro-

* Many persons are apt to forget, that the successful cultivation of Cau-
liflower depends on the particular seasons in which the plants are raised
and set out ; and, consequently, instead of raising their own plants in the
right seasons, apply for them at the seed-stores and gardens, in May and
June. Now, it should he recollected, that if early Cauliflower do not ar-
rive at, or near perfection, by the end of June, the plants get stunted by
the heat, and seldom yield any thing but leaves, except the summer should
prove mild, in which rase, some of the early plants may flower in autumn ;
but it is needless to risk the setting out of early Cauliflower plants later
than April for the sake of such chance, because plants raised from seed
sown about the middle of May, and transplanted in July, are by far the
most likely to produce good fall Cauliflower

CAULIFLOWER. 53

gress in growth, they should have as much air as possible,
consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must be kept
covered up every night, as long as there is any danger of
frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, they
must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another
bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted
into the ground, and treated in every respect the same as
the other.

In the early part of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown
in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli,
and one ounce of seed will produce about four thousand
plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, and
transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower in
Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of
October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner
recommended for Broccoli.

Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while
the pulp is close and perfect. After having trimmed off some
of the outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water
seasoned with salt, taking care to skim it, and also to ease the
cover of the pot so as not to confine the steam. Take them
up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily, which will
be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to their size
and age ; drain them so as to make them susceptible of ab-
sorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter, &c. This
renders them a palatable and dainty dish

CABBAGE.

CABBAGE.
CHOU. Brassica oleracea, etc.

VARIETIES.

Early
Early
Early
Early
Early
Early
Early
Early
Karly

Imperial.
Dwarf Dutch.
York.
Sugarloaf.
Emperor.
Wellington.
Heart-shaped.
London Market.
London Battersea.

Large Bergen, or American.
Late Flat German.
Large Green Glazed.
Large Late Drumhead.
Red Dutch, for pickling.
Green Globe Savoy.
Large Cape Savoy.
Green Curled Savoy.
Turnip -rooted, in varieties

THE early sorts of spring Cabbage may be raised in vari-
ous ways. Some sow the seed between the tenth and twenty-
fourth of September, pricked out and managed the same as
Cauliflower plants, only that they are more hardy, and may
sometimes be kept through the winter, without sashes.

Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a
garden frame with sashes. If this frame be placed on a
warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the
early kinds sown the latter end of January, or early in Feb-
ruary, these plants will be better than those raised in the
fall ; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and they
will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot-
beds in the spring.

Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the
ground intended for the raising of early plants before the
frost sets in, the same may be removed some mild day in
January or February, and temporary frames made by driving
stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs thereto.
The ground being then dug, the seed sown, and covered up
with sashes, will soon produce plants in perfection. The
frames should be well protected, by placing the manure
around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards, &c.,
as directed for hot-beds in the Calendar for February and
March.

CABBAGE. 55

It is customary with gardeners about New- York to raise
their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds should
be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, (see
Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter
end of February, or ea,rly in March. Plants thus produced,
as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans-
plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully
planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from sixteen
inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : these
by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in June.
If seed of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border,
early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in
May, which will make good Cabbages for summer use.*

The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown toward the end
of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab-
bage in general, may be sown at two or three different times,
between the middle and the end of May, in fresh rich ground.

The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the
summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded
border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart.
One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor-
der of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and pro-
duce about four thousand stout plants ; whereas, if seed be
sown broad-cast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of seed

* As numerous species of insects attack plants of the Brassica or Cab-
bage tribe, in r very stage of their growth, great caution is necessary in their
cultivation. For a prevention to the attacks of fleas or flies, see page 19
of the General Remarks. Perhaps the most effectual way of saving plants
from grub-worms, is not to transplant any, during the month of June.
Seed beds are very seldom attacked ; but if they should be, they may be
protected by digging trenches around them, and throwing in lime, salt, or
ashes, sufficient to prevent the ingress of the worms. If seed of the vari-
ous kinds be sown at the times recommended, the early varieties will be st>
far advanced in growth before the grub-worms prevail, as to be out of their
reach ; and by the time the late sown plants are ready to transplant, the
worms will be harmless, because they turn gray toward the end of June,
and by the middle of July, the time recommended for general transplanting,
the danger from grub-worms is over. For the destruction of caterpillars,
see General Remarks, page 20.

56 CABBAGE.

may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce on
the plan recommended.

The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted
the second and third week in July, in rows thirty inches
asunder, and the plants about two feet apart in the rows :
the Savoys and smaller sorts may be planted about the same
time, but from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage
succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be
deeply hoed or ploughed, at least three times, during their
growth.

The Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its bulb,
or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immediately
under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the
size of a garden Turnip.

The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants
afterward treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earthing
up the plants you must be careful not to cover the globular
part.

They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England
the bulbs often grow to upward of twenty inches in circum-
ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They are
cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for
table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbage,
or sow them like Turnips, and afterward hoe them out to
proper distances.

The Brassica Napus, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has an
oblong thick root in the form of a winter Radish ; it is ex-
tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seed
should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect
as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the dis-
tance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much
larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans-
planted.

The Brassica Napus, variety esculenta, is sometimes culti-
vated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the
French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. />7

French Turnip. In France, as well as in Germany, few
great dinners are served up without it, in some shape or
other.

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS.
CHOU VERT. Brassica oleracea.

THIS is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young;
it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is
seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow the seed of
early heading kinds of Cabbage as a substitute, which being
done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply
of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the year.
This is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of
heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very valuable and
acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable season for fall
Cabbage.

If the seed of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early
kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July, and August, and
transplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif-
teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make
good heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if
transplanted in September and October, in a warm border,
would produce tender, sweet-eating greens for use in the
early part of winter ; the latter plantings may be placed ten
or twelve inches from plant to plant. These could be easily
sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without being
taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted to our
Southern States, as there they need no protection in winter.

58 CARROT.

CARDOONS.
CARDON. Cynara cardunculus.

THE Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is mucli cul-
tivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for salads,
soups, stews, &c.

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the eat-
able parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection in
autumn and winter.

The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the month
of April ; and one ounce will produce about six hundred
plants : when the plants are up ^strong, they should be thin-
ned so as to leave them four or five inches apart, to prevent
them from becoming weak. They may be transplanted in
June, at the distance of four feet from each other every way ;
observe, before planting, to dress their tops and roots the
same as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be
earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together ;
this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with En-
dive ; they are afterward to be earthed up gradually from
time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As win-
ter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid away
like Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a cellar.

CARROT.
CAROTTE. Dauciis carota.

VARIETIES.

Early Orange.
Long Orange.
Altringham.

Long Lemon-coloured.
Blood Red.
Long White.

THE Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the road-
side in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, it is much
used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled beef,
&c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows,
sheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as

CARROT.

5<J

they frequently yield upward of four hundred bushels to an
acre, when cultivated on the field system.

For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated for
spring and summer use ; but the Long Orange is more suit-
able for main crops, on account of its bright orange colour,
as well as for its great size and length. Carrots grow to
great perfection in a rich loamy soil, and may be raised in
drills drawn about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder.
A small bed may be planted at the latter end of March for
an early crop, and from that time to the end of May for suc-
cessive crops ; but the principal crop should not be sown too
soon, as the early plantings are apt to produce seed-stalks,
and, consequently, stringy and useless roots.

The most suitable ground for late Carrots, is that which
has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no
fresh manure. If the seed be sown in June, and the plants
thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from each
other when young, and kept hoed, they will yield an abun-
dance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being taken
up in autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar, or
covered up in pits in a garden, as directed in the Calendar
for November.

Although Carrot seed is naturally small and light, it seldom
fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore, need not
be spwn too thick in ground not apt to produce weeds. If
a root could be insured to grow unmolested in every instance
where a seed may be deposited, two pounds would be more
than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gardeners generally
use four or five pounds to the acre, in order that the rows
may be more easily traced in the event of a luxuriant growth
of weeds. To avoid risking an unequal crop in small gar-
dens, half an ounce of seed should be allotted for every pole,
perch, or rod, or twenty ounces for a rood of land. On light
ground, the use of a roller would be beneficial in dry weather,
excess of which is detrimental to the germination of Carrot,
as well as of all other light seed.

60 CELERY.

CELERY.
CELERI. Apium graveolens.

VARIETIES.

White Solid. • j New White Lion's Paw.

Red-coloured Solid. North's Red Giant.

Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted.

THIS vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is known in
its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in greai
abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the seacoast of
Britain. The effects of cultivation are here strikingly exhi-
bited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the mild and
sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance should stimu-
late the young gardener to aim at improvement in the culti
vation of plants in general.

It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early
plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro
duce seed- stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold-
beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage
plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last
week in March, or early in April, in rich, mellow ground,
and in a situation where the plants can be protected from the
parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north
aspect is the most suitable). Some sow the seed broad-cast,
but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The
drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that
a small hoe can be worked between the rows ; and if pro-
perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown will produce
ten thousand strong plants or more.

The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nursery
bed of cool rich earth, as soon as they are two or three inches
high, there to remain about a month, after which they will
be fit to transplant into the trenches.

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open
exposure ; mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches
wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which

CELERY. 61

will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig eacn trench
a moderate spade deep, laying the dug-out earth equally on
each side, between the trenches ; put three inches deep of
very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the
sides, and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of
the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well together
and put in the plants.*

Previous to planting, trim the plants, by cutting off the
long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let
them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid-
dle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and plant ;
as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful watering,
and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to
grow.

The main crops may be planted in the same way, but in
trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or
two farther from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol-
lowing manner, which, for the ease of preserving the plants
in winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a
greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground.

Lay out the ground into beds four feet wide, with alleys
between, three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the
earth on the alleys : when done, lay four or five inches of
good, well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig
and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole
with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four rows

* Some erardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground ;
others, after making their trenches in the usual way, go to the expense of
carting peculiar soil from a distance, with which they replenish their
trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the latter plan, say
that they are rewarded for their trouble by gathering roots of superior size
and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove profitable to prac-
tice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be judicious in those
gardeners, whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or ill-adapted for
the growth of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drills, or farrows worked
out with a plough, by which means they may secure good soil to plant in,
and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must be from four to
five feet apart, and frequent ploughing between them would promote th«
growth of the plants.

6

62 CELERY.

in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight inches
apart in the rows ; after which, give them a plentiful water
ing, and shade them.

The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of suf-
ficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance of
boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the leaves
while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re-
moving them as you progress in the business.

The earthing should never be done when the plants are
wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be
performed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress
in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks ; at which
time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly,
and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are
grown two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the
table.

As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season,
it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is in-
tended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the
trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid a
serious drought, which often delays the planting till too late
in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use may
be delayed until October.

By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale,
the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished
with a spade or hoe. The ground may also be ploughed
between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; this
will save much labour.

The Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted, may be planted either on
level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells like a
Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the winter.
The French and Germans cut it in slices, and soak it a few
hours in vinegar ; by such simple preparation, it becomes
mellow as a pineapple, and affords a delicious and very nour-
ishing repast.

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. >

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS.

MACHE ou DOUCETTE. Valenana locusta.

VARIETY. — Olitoria.

THIS plant grows spontaneously in the corn-fields of Eng-
land, hence it is called Corn Salad ; and from its being suf-
ficiently hardy to stand the winter, and affording an early
pasturage, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb's Lettuce.
Et is cultivated as a salad for winter and early spring use.
The seed may be sown in rich, clean ground, the latter end
of August or early in September.

Some gardeners sow the seed in beds four or live feet
wide, \\ith paths between each bed, just sufficient to admit
of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more freely
if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be carefully
covered. The drills may be about six inches apart, or just
sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the rows ;
for if the plants are not cleared of all weeds while young,
they will be more plague than profit.

Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach
of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use in
the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season
which most amply remunerates the cultivator.

The seed of Fetticus is small and light, but it will admit
of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six
pounds to an acre of land.

04 CRES8.

CRESS.
CRESSON. J^epidium sativuvn.

VARIETIES.

Curled, or Peppergrass. I Broad-leaved Garden.

CRESS is a small salad herb, and is generally used with
Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may be
sown very thick in little drills, as should salad seed in gene-
ral, and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quan-
tity in the salad season, which is spring and autumn, may be
sown every week in rich ground, free from weeds.

CRESS, (Water.)
CRESSON DE FONTAINE. Sisymbrium nasturtium.

THE Water Cress is a creeping, amphibious perennial, and
is grown very extensively for the London Markets. Loudon
says, in his Encyclopedia of Gardening, that " The most
suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more than
an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel ; the
least favourable, deep, still water, or a muddy bottom. It is
highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly-risen
spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in it, but,
;n consequence of its being rarely frozen, they generally con
tinue in vegetation, and in a good state for gathering, through
the whole winter season. The plants are disposed in rows
parallel with the course of the stream, about eighteen inches
apart. When these plants begin to grow in water one inch
and a half deep, they soon check the current so as to raise
the water to the height of three inches above the plants,
which is considered the most favourable circumstance in
which they can be placed. It is absolutely necessary to have
a constant current, as where there is any obstruction to the
stream, the plants cease to thrive. After they have been cut
about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener
liiey are cut the better.

CUCUMBER.

CUCUMBER.
CONCOMBRE. Cucwnis sativus, eic.

VARIETIES.

Early Frame.
Early Green Cluster.
Early Green Table.
Long Prickly.
Short Prickly.

Long Green.
Extra Long Green.
Long White Turkey.
White Spined.
West India, or Gherkrn

THE Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native of
the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the vine.
It was introduced into England in 1573. and is extensively
cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air. In March,
they are sold in the London Markets for a guinea a dozen ;
and in August and September for one penny per dozen.

As Cucumbers are much used in New- York, it should be
an object with gardeners to have them in the market early ;
directions for raising them out of the ordinary season, are
therefore given in a future page, under the head Forcing
Vegetables ; to which the reader is referred. Cucumbers
may be raised in the open ground by planting seed the first
week of May, in hills four feet apart ; or if the ground be
light, basins formed an inch below the level of the surface
would be beneficial.* Previous to planting, the ground should
be prepared by incorporating a shovelful of rotten clung with
the earth in each hill, after which four or five seed may be
planted half an inch deep. One ounce of good seed is suf-
ficient for two hundred hills and upward.

Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which
sometimes devours young plants ; these and other insects
may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, powdered char-

* The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers, to
designate a situation allotted for a given number of seed, whereas, such
seed are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface than
above it ; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently formed
around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather reconciles the
apparent contradiction

6*

66 EGG-PLANT.

coal, and the like, round about the vines when they first
come up, or by applying the liquid recommended in page
19 of the General Remarks. After this is done, the plants
may be thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground
carefully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same
time. The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the
weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, given
in the evening, will be of considerable service.

Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time
in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be looked
over, and the fruit gathered as soon as it becomes fit, as the
plant will cease to bear much if the fruit be permitted to get
yellow.

CHIVES, OR GIVES.
CIVETTE. Jillium schanoprasum.

THIS is a small species of Onion, and grows in large tufts ;
it is propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be
planted either in spring or autumn, in rows ten or twelve
inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the
rows ; they will soon take root, and increase very fast, form-
ing large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging
for beds or borders.

EGG-PLANT.
MELONGENE AU AUBERGINE. Solarium melongena.

VARIETIES
Purple, for cooking. I White, for ornament. ,

THE seed of the Purple Egg-plant may be sown in a hot-
bed about the first of March ; and the sashes must be kept
down close until the plants come up, after which a little air

EGG-PLANT. G7

may be given in the heat of the day.* Toward the middle
of May, if the weather be warm and settled, the plants
should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in
a rich, warm piece of ground; and if kept clean, and a little
earth be drawn up to their stems when about a foot high,
they will produce plenty of fruit.

Plants of the white variety may be riased in the same man-
ner, anrt transplanted into pots in May; or if some of the
seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in May, these
may come to perfection in the course of the summer. This
variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is good
when cooked.

As Egg plants will not grow in the open ground until set-
tled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being trans-
planted too early, the gardener should be provided with small
p its, in order that the plants may be transplanted therein
early in May, and placed in a frame, there to remain until
the first week in June, at which time, if they are turned out
and planted, with the bails of earth entire, they will soon take
root and grow freely.

Select the fruit when at maturity; cut it into slices, and
parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ;
it may then be fried in batter made with wheaten flour and
an egg, or in fresh butter with bread grated fine and sea-
soned before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme,
and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use
Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c.

* Ktrg-plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ; but with
proper management, upward of four thousand plants may be raised from
an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in the earlier stages
of growth, they seldom recover ; it is, therefore, important that the frame
allotted for them be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed, and partitioned
of, so that the sash can be kept down over the plants in cool weather.

Some gardeners raise Egg-plants in the same frame with Cabbage, and
such other half-hardy plants as require air every mild day ; by such man-
agement, one or the other must suffer for want of suitable aliment, heat
being the principal food of tender plants, and air that of the more hardy
species

68 ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY.

ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY.
CHICOREE DBS JARDINS. Cichorium endiva, etc

VARIETIES.

Green Curled. I Golden Yellow.

White Curled. Broad-leaved, or Scarolle.

THE Cichorium endiva is a native of China and Japan, and is
much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for the table.

The proper kind of seed for early sowing is the Green
Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different
times in April and May, by those who would have it early.
These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason,
it will be best to delay the sowing of seed for general crops
until June, or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed
variety be sown two or three times in these months, they
will produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the
early part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will
produce about five thousand plants.

When the plants are three or four inches high, they should
be transplanted into good ground, at the distance of a foot,
from each other, and immediately watered ; or if they are
set out in cloudy or wet weather, it will save this trouble.
The plants will requrie to be hoed and attended to in the
same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, when
they must be blanched. Select the large and full-hearted
plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little above
the middle, not too tight, previously gathering up the leaves
regularly in the hand. This must be done when the leaves
are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. The Cichorium
intylms grows spontaneuosly in many parts of Europe and
America. In France it is much cultivated ; the tops of the
plants are considered profitable for cattle, and the roots are
taken up in Autumn, and dried. The aromatic and volatile
qualities of coffee are, by the combination of this root, ren-
dered more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fragrance
greatly increased, producing an agreeable tonic, and most
exhilarating beverap-e.

HORSE-RADISH. 69

Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and about
eighteen inches apart ; thin out the plants to six or eight
inches in the row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers,
and is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots when
dried, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the
proportion of two ounces of the powder to a pound of coffee

HORSE-RADISH.
RAIFORT. Cochlearia armoracia.

THIS plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either
cut from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or
otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, re-
taining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible.
These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable,
in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each
other in the rows.

Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will
retain moisture, manure it with well-rotted dung, plough or
dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient
implement, draw drills a foot apart ; then plant with a dibble,
cuttings as above described, in every alternate drill, from two
to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may be planted
with Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other root, but Tur-
nip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate between the rows,
as they will grow quick, and can be pulled out without dis-
turbing the Horse-radish.

The Beets must of course be thinned out while young, and
kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will also
benefit the Horse-radish. After the Beets are pulled, hoe
the ground again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which
method the bed may be cleared every year.

Some cultivate Horse-radish in a permanent bed, in which
case, if, in taking up the roots, some offsets be left in the
ground, they will produce a successive supply for future years.

70 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

INDIAN CORN.
MAIS. Zta, mayz.

VARIETIES.

Early Dutton.
Early Tuscarora.
Early Canadian.
Sweet, or Sugar.

Cobbet's Early Normandy
Southern Horsetooth.
Early Golden Sioux.
Mottled and Curious Pearl.

THE different varieties of early Corn intended for b6iling
when young, or other's as curiosities, may be planted in the
garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four
feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be
planted in separate beds at the same tim'e, they will come in
for the table one after the other in regular succession. After
this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted
at different times in the month of May and June. If the
ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the
earth in each hill before the seed are planted, and after the
plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes
around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling,
will cause it to produce ears early. Deep digging or plough-
ing between the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about
eighteen inches high.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.
POMME DE TERRE. HeUanthus tuberosom.

THIS plant is a native of America. The tubers of the
root, which are generally abundant, were, before Potatoes
became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are
yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious f iod, when
boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa-
gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each,
and planting them in the same mamier as Potatoes, in March
and April. To have them in perfection, they should be hoed

LEEK. 71

frequently , and the ground kept loose around them. In dig-
ging them for use, care should be taken to gather them out
clean, as the least particle left will grow the year following,
and encumber the ground, without producing a crop worth
standing.

LEEK.
POIRREAU. Allium porrum.

VARIETIES.

Scotch, or Flag. I Large London

THIS is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as
to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The
seed may be sown in March, or early in April, in a bed of
rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and a sufficient dis
cance apart to admit of a small hoe being worked between
the rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thou-
sand plants that may be required.

If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants,
they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and
should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches
asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows.
They will grow well in a warm border, which at this season
is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the plants have
taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept free
from weeds.

Those who wish to have Leeks blanched, may plant them
in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the plants in-
crease in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into
the trenches.

72 LETTUCE

LETTUCE

LAITUE. Lactuca saliva crispa.
VARIETIES.

Large Green Head.
Dutch, or Cabbage.
Tennis Ball, or Rose.
Madeira, or Passion.
Large Green Curled.
Loco Foco.

Early Silesia.
Imperial, or Sugar Loaf.
Pale Green, or Butter.
Grand Admiral.
Large Summer Silesia.
Paris Loaf Coss.

IT would be easy to furnish a more extensive catalogue of
Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one of
those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in perfec
lion during mild and temperate weather, it is needless foi
the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such as
have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable degree of
warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June,
e,nd consequently cuts short the salad season. Those who
nave been accustomed to raise head Lettuce in any quantity,
know the trouble of preparing the ground and planting, and
the loss they would sustain if several thousand plants should
run to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market.
As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I
would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not
acquainted with, before they set out any quantity with a view
to their heading.*

The six varieties inserted in the first column of our cata-

* It may be necessary here to remind the gardener, that MOTSTURE is the
most essential nutriment of Lettuce, and that the very best varieties may
run to seed without forming heads, in the event of extreme warm weather.
Those who put off the sowing of seed until May and June, instead of
sowing it in March and A,pril, as directed, may procure head Lettuce from
some of their strongest plants, by transplanting them into rich ground as
soon as they are an inch or two in height, and the remainder, if left thin in
the beds, may produce small heads, by stirring the earth around them with
a small hoe, or weeding hook ; these are as good for family use as larger
heads, and those persons who are fond of Lettuce may raise such through-
out the summer ; but market gardeners seldom attempt it, unless they
have a tract of moist, loamy soil, peculiarly adapted to the growth of head
Lettuce, in any thing like a propitious season.

LETTUCE. 73

logue have been known to stand our winters, and may be
sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich
ground, free from weeds ; they answer very well when sown
with Spinach, and should be covered with straw at the ap-
proach of severe weather. These plants, if transplanted into
warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March as
the weather will permit, will produce fine heads early in the
month of May.

The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in
moderate hot-beds early in March, and if transplanted into
good ground by the middle of April, will produce their heads
before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as aie
known to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as are
intended to be cut as a small salad while young, maybe sown
in warm borders in March and April ; but those designed for
heading should be transplanted as soon as they are an inch
or two in height, and kept in a growing state by frequent
hoeing, or they may run up to seed as the season advances.

If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong
Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown
very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border
of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro-
duce from ten to twelve thousand plants.

All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading should be plant-
ed in good ground, twelve inches distant from each other
every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every othei
week during their growth ; the first hoeing should be done
in about two weeks after they are transplanted.

The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; this is done
by gathering up the leaves of the plants and tying bass round
them, when grown to perfection.

If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the
spring, it may be obtained in autumn by sowing seed in Au-
gust, or in the winter by means of garden frames and glazed
sashes. \See article on Forcing Vegetables.]

74 MELON.

MELON.
MELON. Cucumis melo.

VARIETIES.

Green-fleshed Citron.
Murray's Pineapple.
Green-fleshed Persian.
Green-fleshed Nutmeg.

Large Yellow Canteleupe.
Pomegranate, or Musk Scented.
SkiJlman's Fine Netted.
Snake, (curious.)

THE Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It
is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also
in Afiica and America, where its salubrious and cooling fruit
is generally esteemed.

For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre-
pare a piece of rich ground early in May ; manure it and
give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares of six
feet every way ; at the angle of each square, dig a hole
twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put aboul
six inches deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon about four
inches of earth, and rnix the dung and earth well with the
spade ; after which draw more earth over the mixture, so as
to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top. (For a de-
finition of the term " hill," see article Cucumber.) When
your hills are all prepared, plant in each, toward the centre,
six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from each
other, and cover them about half an inch deep. One ounce
of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and twenty
hills.

When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in
each hill ; draw earth from time to time round the hills, and
about the roots of the plants. As soon as the plants have
spread into branches, stop them by pinching off the top of
the first runner bud ; this will strengthen the plants, and pro-
mote their perfecting the fruit early ; after which keep the
ground perfectly free from weeds by frequent hoeing.

There are many varieties of the Melon, highly esteemed

WATER MELON. 75

in Europe, which do not succeed in this country; the gar-
dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested
and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old
sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection
is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts
remote from each other, and from Cucumbers, Squashes, and
Gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To
prevent the ravages of flies, &c., see General Remarks, pages
19 and 20.

WATER MELON.
MELON D'EAU. Cucurbita citrullus.

VARIETIES.

New Jersey. I Goodwin's Imperial.

Carolina. Citron, for preserves.

THE Water Melon, though by some considered a species
of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They
afford a very refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum-
mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the
southern provinces of Russia, in 1793 and '94, speaking of a
colony of Moravians in Sarepta, or Sapa, on the River Volga,
says, " The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind
of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons,
with the addition of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve or
marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for
syrup or treacle."

In order to have Water Melons in perfection, you must
fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ; prepare, plant and
manage it in every respect as is directed for Musk Melon,
only, let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way.
One ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills.

76 NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION.

MUSTARD.
MOUTARDE. Sinapis.

VARIETIES.
White. I Black.

THE Jllba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in the
fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well
as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred pounds,
from thirty-three to thirty-six pounds of sweet mild oil.

White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per-
sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit
by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three times a day
Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agreeable fla-
vour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more salutary.

The JWgrfl or Common Mustard, is also a native of England.

The condiment called Mustard, and in daily use at our table
is prepared from the seed of this species.

The seed, of each variety, may be sown in clean rich
ground in April and May; and for a fall salad in September
in shallow drills.

NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION.
CAPUCINE. Tropwolnm.

THIS is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is highly
deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange
and crimson coloured flower, as well as for the berries,
which, if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, make
a good substrate for capers, and are used in melted butter,
with boiled mutton, &c.

The seed should be sown in April, or early in May, in
drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales ; or trellises
should be constructed, on which they can climb and have
support, for they will always be more productive in this way
than when suffered to trail on the ground.

ONION. 77

OKRA.
G-OMBO. Hibiscus esculentus.

THE green capsules of this plant are used in soups, stews,
&c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are considered
nutritious. Its ripe seed, if burned and ground like coffee,
can scarcely be distinguished therefrom.

The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first
or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not
otherwise, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills about
an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into which drop
the seed at the distance of six or eight inches from each
other, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one
should not grow and cover them nearly an inch deep. As the
plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth them up two
or three times, and they will produce abundantly.

ONION.
OIGNON. JLllium cepa, etc. etc.

VARIETIES.

New England White.

Large Red.

Yellow, or Silver Skinned.

Yellow Dutch.
Strasburgh, or Flanders.
Madeira.

OF the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver
Skinned, and Large Red, are the best for a general crop. The
bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well through
the winter. The New England White are handsome for the
table, and very suitable for pickling, as well as to pull while
young, and generally prove a very profitable crop.

Previous to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the
ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the
oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier
this be done in the spring, the better, and the planting should

7*

78 ONION.

not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The seed
may be sown moderately thick, in drills one inch deep and
twelve inches apart.*

'I hose who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs,
may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre.

As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities, find it
most profitable to pull a great proportion of their Onions
while young, they generally require at the rate of from eight
to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land.

When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. Those
beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned out while
young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other.
If a few should be required for use after this, those can be
taken which incline more to tops than roots ; and if the beds
be frequently looked over, and the small and stalky plants
taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs
will grow to a larger size. The plants should be hoed at least
three times in the early part of their growth ; but if the season
prove damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be
removed by the hand, because after the Onions have begun to
bulb^it would injure them to stir them with a hoe.

Whlen the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it
is time to take them up ; for from this time the fibrous roots
decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to dry,
and when dry, removed to a place of shelter.

The small Onions may be planted in the following spring.
Even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs,
if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear.

* Onion seed may be sown at any time from March to September, but
those only can be depended upon for ripening, which are sown in the first
and second spring months. It is a singular fact, that Onions will not ripen
later than August or the early part of September, however warm the
weather may be ; they can, however, be preserved in the place where they
grow, by spreading some short dung over them in autumn, just sufficient
to prevent their purging out of the ground in winter. Onions thus pre-
served, often prove more profitable to market gardeners in the spring, than
crops which ripen ; because ripe Onions are then scarce, and green ones
prove a good substitute for Shallots, Welsh Onions, Leeks, &c.

PARSLEY. 79

The Allium fistuloswn, or Welsh Onion, is cultivated for
spring salad ; it forms no bulbs, but is very hardy. If the
seed be sown early in September in rich ground, although
the tops may die down in the winter, yet the roots will con-
tinue sound, and put up new leaves early in the spring.

The JUllium cepa, or common White arid Red Onions, are
most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a substitute
for the Jllimni fisiulosum ; they sow the seed in the spring
and autumn months, the product of which is pulled and sent
to the market while young, and generally meets with a ready
sale.

The Jlllium proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by
planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs,
or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if
planted in the spring, will produce fine Onions. These may
be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots.

The Potato Onion, Jlllimn iuberosum, does not produce
seed as other Onions, but it increases by the root. One sin-
gle Onion, slightly covered, will produce six or seven in a
clump, partly under ground.

The bulbs are generally planted in the spring, from twelve
to eighteen inches apart, but they will yield better when
planted in autumn, as they will survive the winter if slightly
covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees, &c.

PARSLEY.
PERSIL. Jlpium petroselinum.

VARIETIES.

Dwarf Curled. j Single, or Common.

Extra Curled. Large Rooted Hamburg.

PARSLEY is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in moist
climates, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The
leaves of the Common Parsley are used as a pot herb, and

80 PARSLEY.

those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine garnish. The
Large Rooted are generally cooked for the table in autumn
and winter, like Parsnips.

As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in
the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in
dry weather, the general crop should be sown in a cool
situation by the early part of April, in drills an inch deep,
and one foot asunder, allowing at the rate of about six or
seven pounds of seed to the acre, or two ounces for every
three perches of land.*

After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent
hoeing. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out
while young, and managed the same as Carrots and Parsnips.

In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the
old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of
the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a
frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ;
tne remainder may be covered up with straw in the place
where it grows.

If Parsley seed be sown in frames in spring or summer,
it may be preserved for winter use without the trouble ot
removing it.

* It frequently happens that Parsley seed will remain in the ground
three or four weeks, without showing any signs of vegetation, and in the
event of extreme dry weather, is apt to decay for want of its most essen-
tial aliment — MOISTURE. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown about
an inch apart in each drill, are well adapted to promote the growth of
Parsley ; because Radish seed being quick in germinating, will open the
pores of the earth ; and the plants, as they progress in growth, will create
a shade, sufficient to protect the Parsley from the full rays of the sun.

PARSNIP. 81

PARSNIP.
PANAIS. Pastinaca saliva.

VARIETIES.
Long Guernsey Cup. I Large Dutch, or Common.

THIS is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous
soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms a
vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, salted fish, &c.

Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March
till the middle of May, in drills one inch deep and fourteen
inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires a long season
to grow in, the sooner tl^ seed is planted the better. Pars-
nips grow best in a deep soil, which has been well manured
the preceding fall. Sow the seed thick along the drills, at the
rate of five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly.*

When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them
to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They
should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeing through
the summer, and in autumn they will be fit for use ; but they
improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will endure
the seventy of a hard winter. See Calendar for November.

Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, ac-
cording to their size and age. Some boil them in water
seasoned with salt, until tender ; but they are better when
boiled with salt pork, and afterward mashed and fried in
butter.

* The Parsnip, although when in full growth it will endure the extremes
of heat and cold, requires peculiar management to promote and preserve
germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the seed a fair
chance, it should be planted in ground susceptible of moisture, and not
apt to encrust when dry. The seed should be dropped thick along the
drills, and well covered, as single or solitary plants are apt to perish, from
not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and in the
event of drought such plants die off prematurely. If cultivated in light
ground, it should be rolled or pressed immediately after depositing the seed
therein, but this should not be done while the earth is wet. A few grains
of Long Radish seed, sown in each drill as directed for Parsley, will also
prove beneficial to Parsnips.

62 PEPPER.

PEPPER.
POIVRE ou PIMENT. Capsicum.

VARIETIES.

Grossum, or Bell Pepper. Long Red, or Bird's Bill.

Tomato-shaped, or Squash. | Cherry, or West Indian.

Sweet Spanish; used as a salad, has a very delicate taste.

THIS family of plants are natives of the East and West
Indies ; some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and
others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick-
ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they are
fully ripe.

The seed of the different kinds of Capsicums may be sown
in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in May.
One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants.
When the plants arrive at the height of from one to two
inches, they should be transplanted into good rich ground,
from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other.

Those who do not want Peppers early in the season, may
sow seed in the open ground in May, in drills two feet asun-
der, and half an inch deep. When the plants are grown an
inch or two high, thin them to thu distance of fifteen or
eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should be after-
ward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds
by repeated hoeings.

The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and
will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng-
land this species is considered superior to all others, on ac-
count of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender ; the
plants are therefore frequently preserved in hot-houses dur-
ing the winter and spring, and kept in the open air in settled
warm weather.

PEA.

PEA.

Piswn sativum.

VARIETIES.

83

Early Cedo Nulli, or Race Horse, 3 ft
Early Frame, 2 to 3 feet.
Early Warwick, 3 feet.
Early Washington, 3 feet.
Early Charlton, 3 feet.
Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet.
Bishop's Early Dwarf, 2 feet.
Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet.
Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 to 2 feet.
Early Nimble Dick, 3 feet.
Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 to 3 feet.
Waterloo Blue, 4 feet.

Albany Field

Groom's Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 ft.
Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 to 3 feet
Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 to 4 feet
Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet
Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet
Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet
Knight's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet.
Woodford's Green Prolific, 6 feet.
Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet
Dwarf Sugar, (eatable pods,) 3 feet
Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet.
French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 to 4 ft
in varieties.

THE above list and description of the most esteemed kinds
of Pea are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. Thorburn.
If they are rightly described, they will grow to different
heights, according to soil and season. This description,
however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting.
The Dwarf Pea require less distance between row and row,
and shorter sticks than the tall kinds.

Planting the early kinds of Pea should commence as soon
in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi-
tion ; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will answer for
successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the most esteemed
varieties should be planted at the same time every two weeks,
from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of
having Peas throughout the summer and autumn, may plant
a few in June, July, and August. In dry weather the Peas
should be soaked in soft water five or six hours before plant-
ing, and if the ground be very dry, it should be watered in
the drills.

Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas.
Some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single
rows, others in double ; some use sticks for the dwarf kinds.,
and others not ; those who study neatr.ess should, however,

S4 PEA.

have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do
without.

All the different sorts of Pea may be planted in double or
single rows, from four to six feet apart, according to the
different heights they may be expected to grow. If two
drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches
apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately
thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save
sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let
them be hoed, drawing, at the same time, a little earth up to
their stems ; when they get to double that height, let them
be hoed again ; at the same time, place a row of sticks in the
middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller
ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb-
ing to their main support. You must be governed as to the
length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. There
is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable height to
the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not only be suf-
ficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily
take hold ; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so that
the side branches may extend only along the rows As the
plants progress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and
earthed up ; this will promote a plentiful bearing.

One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to
average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the
inch. If cultivated on the field system, one bushel will plant
an acre of land, and produce about a hundred bushels of
green Peas.

To have green Peas in perfection, they should be gathered
while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled,
or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the
water be slightly seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in
the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the
cover so as to let off the steam ; they require about fifteen
minutes boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to

POTATO. 85

the age and care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to
have them done to a nicety.

The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the
pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefore be boiled
without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney Beans.

POTATO.
POMME DE TERRE. Solatium Tiiberosum.

THE Potato is known to be a native of the southern parts
of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation.

The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for
me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest
should, however, be planted first in the spring, to produce
young Potatoes in due season ; but they are not so suitable
for a full crop as the late varieties.

Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients
have been contrived with a view to find out the best method
of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where
Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers
seldom plant them whole ; they take the Potatoes as they
come to hand, and in cutting them, take care to have two
good eyes in each set; the small Potatoes are deprived of
the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a
redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak
plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have
frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised
from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way.
Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are
cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the
time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret
floor, to dry.

It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes
to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and naturo

8

86 POTATO.

of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of
planting the same.

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until
July, either in hills or drills ; the best way for a garden is to
plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty
inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight inches
apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn shavings
or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will
expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as soon
as the plants come up, and as they progress in growth it
will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. %

POTATO, (Sweet.)

POMME DE TERRE DOUCE. Convolvulus

SWEET Potatoes are grown to great perfection in the
Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New-
\Tork, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should
be planted whole, early in April, three or four inches deep,
and about the same distance apart. In about a month they
will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above
ground, part them off from the Potato, which, if suffered to
remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ;
transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart,
and the plants about a foot apart in the rows, or in hills four
feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin
to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. In
sandy ground, it is well to put a shovelful of rotten manure
to each plant.

A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in
the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet
Potatoes placed therein, will produce a succession of sprouts
in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed,
will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots.

PUMPKIN. 87

PUMPKIN.
CITROUILLE ou PoTiRON. Gucurbita pepo.

VARIETIES.

Finest Cheese, or Family. 1 Connecticut Field.

Mammoth, or Spanish. j White Bell

THIS plant is highly deserving of cultivation, particularly
in new settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for cattle,
as some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh
upward of two hundred pounds each ; the other kinds are
also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land,
provided it will admit of digging small spots, of the dimen-
sions of one or two feet, every ten or twelve feet, for the
hills, and the residue of the ground be unencumbered for
the plants to run on. They are generally raised, on culti-
vated farms, between hills of Indian Corn, and may be
planted in the garden or open field, in May and June, in hills
eight or ten feet apart, with three or four seed in each hill.

One quart of Field Pumpkin seed will plant from five to
six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant from
fifty to eighty hills.

Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either
Melons or Cucumbers, but in other respects are cultivated in
the same manner, only that in raising them on a large scale
the ground may be prepared with a plough, and afterward,
as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow may be used
between the plants until they begin to run, which will save
much labour.

The finest quality of Pumpkins are known to make good
pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with
wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully
equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may prove
advantageous to farmers living at a distance from cities, as
they may find a market for their grain or meal readier than
for their Pumpkins.

88 RADISH.

RADISH.
RADIS ou RAVE. Raphanus sativus.

VARIETIES.

Long Scarlet.
Long Purple.
Scarlet. Pear-shape.
Scarlet Turnip.
White Turnip-rooted.

Long White Naples.
Purple Turnip.
Yellow Turnip.
White Spanish.
Black Spanish.

THE different varieties of Radish are extensively cultivated
near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are considered
a luxury after a hard winter, and prove acceptable as warm
weather approaches, provided they can be obtained in per-
fection. The plant is also cultivated for the sake of the seed
leaves, which are used as a small salad ; and even the seed
pods, if pickled while young and green, are considered by
some a good substitute for Capers.

Those who may be desirous of having good Radishes
early in the spring, should have a warm border prepared in
the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the
Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground
should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this
time, let it be delayed a few days ; and by the first of April,
have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging
in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown broad-
cast, and raked in evenly, or in drills drawn about one inch
deep, and a foot apart.*

If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow
seed of the most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until
the middle of May : if any be sown after this, it should be
the kinds described in the second column of our Catalogue.

* In the seasons for planting Carrot, Parsnip, Parsley, Leek, Celery, and
such other seed as are tardy in germinating, a few grains of Radish seed
dropped in each drill will produce good roots, and this crop will prove
beneficial to those above enumerated, because the rows can be traced by
the Radishes, which being of quick growth, may be pulled by the time the
other plants are in full leaf.

ROCAMBOLE. 89

These will endure the heat better than the others, and may
be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughout the summer,
until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be
sown in regular succession till the first of October. Market
gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and cover
such seed as may be sown broad-cast with a harrow.

For early spring crops, the seed may be sown broad-cast,
at the rate of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre,
and about half that quantity will be sufficient, in drills drawn
a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the acre
will be enough, if sown regularly in drills, as directed.

It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the
necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., over his
seed beds, in hot, dry weather, or he will find it difficult to
raise Radishes in unpropitious seasons. [See article Turnip,
also page 19 of the General Remarks.]

ROCAMBOLE.
AIL D'ESPAGNE. Jlllium scorodoprassum.

THIS and the Jlllium sativum, or common Garlic, are raised
in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole to
be of a milder and better flavour than Garlic, but the bulbs
are not so large.

The plants are very hardy, and will grow in almost any
soil or situation. They may be propagated either by the
roots or seed ; the former ought to be separated and planted
at the same time, and in the same manner, as Shallots.

If raised from seed, they may be sown in drills, either
shortly after the seed is ripe, or in the succeeding spring ;
they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the fol-
lowing autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and
planted as before.

8*

90 RHUBARB.

RHUBARB.
RHUBARBE. Rheum.

RHUBARB is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven
species, of which the following are the principal :

1. Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of Thrace
and Syria, has long been cultivated in British gardens for
the footsalks of the leaves, which are frequently used in pies
and tarts.

2. Rheum nndulatum is also cultivated for the same use.

3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a native
of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has been
introduced into Europe : it produces a thick, fleshy root,
externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright yellow
colour, streaked with red veins. It grows to great perfection
in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat. 56,) and in Eng-
land, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe. When
the importance of this root as a medicine is considered, it is
a matter of astonishment that it has not been more generally
introduced into the United States.

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by off-
sets taken from the roots early in the spring, or from seed
sown late in autumn, or in March and April, in drills one
inch deep and a foot apart. The indispensable points to the
production of good roots of the Patmatum, are depth and
richness of soil, which should be well pulverized before the
plants are set out. Prepare beds of fine mould eighteen
inches deep ; in these put in the plants from the seed-bed,
ten or twelve inches apart ; this must be done when they
have attained the height of four or five inches, and have
thrown out as many leaves.

The first season is the most critical, and much care is ne-
cessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be shaded,
and at all events frequently watered; for water, though
hurtful to old plants, is now of the first importance. Wet
weather is the most proper time in which to plant. The

RHUBARB. 91

beds must be kept free from weeds during the summer, and
on the approach of severe weather, covered up with light
litter. In the early part of spring, this must be taken off,
and in the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted
into ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus.

Those who cultivate the Palmaium for the sake of the
roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and
place the plants three feet apart every way. As to the other
varieties, it is not so particular, only the plants must have
room in which to grow. In the early part of November, the
leaves being then decayed, the beds should be covered with
dry litter ; before this is done, a little earth should be drawn
round the crowns of the plants. If there be any danger of
water lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In the month
of March, the beds should be stripped of their covering, and
the ground well hoed and cleared of weeds.

The roots of the Palmatnm must not be taken up until six
or seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be
cut every spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded.

If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the spring,
they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs
over some of the plants, anoV covering them up with fresh
stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the
article under the head of Forcing Vegetables.

The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After
being stripped of the skin, or outer covering, and divested
of the small fibres, or stringiness to which the plant is liable,
in an advanced stage of growth, the stalks should be cut
transversely into very small pieces, and then parboiled with
sugar, and such spices as best suit the palate. Rhubarb will
keep this way the same as other preserves, and may be used
not only in pies and tarts, but it makes an excellent pudding,
which is done by flattening a suety crust with a rolling-pin,
then spreading on the fruit, rolling it up in an oval shape,
and boiling it in a cloth. Prepared in this way, the fruit
retains its virtues, and the pudding may be served up hot, in

92 SALSIFY.

slices of from half an inch to an inch thick, with butter and
sugar spread between the layers.

Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained
through a colander, will keep for years, if well spiced and
seasoned with sugar.

In England, large drying houses have been erected for the
purpose of curing the roots of the Palmalum ; but this busi-
ness may be done in this country as it is done in China : by
the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed,
and the small fibres cut off, they are to be cut transversely
into pieces about two inches thick, and dried on boards, turn-
ing them several times a day, in order to prevent the escape
of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities depend.
In four or five days they may be strung upon strings, and
suspended in a shady but airy and dry situation, and in two
months afterward they will be fit for the market.

SALSIFY.
SALSIFIS ou CERCIFIS. Tragopogon porrifolius.

THIS plant grows spontaneously in the open fields of Eng-
land, and is by some highly valued for its white edible root,
and for the young shoots rising in the spring from plants a
year old ; these, when gathered while green and tender, are
good to boil and eat in the same manner as Asparagus.
Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to
call it Vegetable Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil
and management as Carrots and Parsnips.

The seed maybe sown at anytime in April and May, an inch
deep, in drills twelve inches apart. When the plants are two
or three inches high, they should be thinned to the distance of
six inches from each other, and afterward hoed. The ground
should be kept clean and loose round the plants, by repeated
hoeing ; in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots

SCORZONERA. 93

may be taken up late in autumn, and secured in moist sand
from the air ; or suffered to remain out, and dug up when
wanted.

As the seed of Salsify do not all ripen uniformly, it should
be sown moderately thick. To insure a regular crop, five
or six pounds may be allowed for an acre of ground, or two
ounces for every three perches

The mode of cooking recommended by an American au-
thor is, " To cut the roots transversely into thin pieces ; boil
them in water, or milk and water; when boiled soft, nmsh '
them, and thicken the whole with flour to some degree of
stiffness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork, or butter ,
they are a luxury."

In England the tops are considered excellent food when
boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted
butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons
inclined to consumption. Those afflicted with any symp-
toms indicating the approach of that complaint, cannot harm
themselves by eating the tops, when they are to be got, which
is in the month of April ; and if the roots are ea.ten when
attainable, they may, perhaps, answer a still better purpose,
and even the liquor in which they are boiled may possess
some of the most valuable properties of the plant.

SCORZONERA.

i
SCORSONERE. Scorzonera Hispanica.

THIS plant has long been raised in British gardens, for
culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups,
on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil
and eat them like Carrots, &c. ; in which case they should
be deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for
half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised pre-
cisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in

94 SEA-KALE.

April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in
autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last from
three to four years, according to the quality of the earth and
the care bestowed upon them ; but it is better to raise a few
from seed every year.

SEA-KALE.
•

CHOU MARIN. Crambe maritima.

THIS plant is found on the sea-shore, in the southern part*
of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it
appears above ground, the inhabitants remove the pebbles
or sand with which it is usually covered, to the depth of sev-
eral inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and
stalks, as yet uiiexpanded and in a blanched state, close to
the crown of the root ; it is then in its greatest perfection.
When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and bit-
ter, and the plant is not eatable.

It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale, in various
parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely respect-
ing the mode of treating this plant ; many conceiving that
stones, gravel, and sea sand are essential to its growth, have
gone to the expense of providing them ; but it has been dis-
covered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich
sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth.

The seed of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or as early
in the spring as the ground can 'be brought into good condi-
tion, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or six-
teen inches asunder; the plants should afterward be thinned
out to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in
the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeing through
the summer. When the plants are a year old, every third
row may be taken up, and also every other plant in each
row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart ; these

SEA-KALE.

95

may be transplanted into good ground prepared as directed
for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen
inches apart ; the best way is to make two drills three inches
deep, and with a, dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen
inches from each other; when these drills are filled, the
crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two inches, but
they will soon push through the earth. The plants left in
the seed-bed may form a permanent bed, which should be
forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this being done,
lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incorporate
it with the earth around the plants.

Some make new plantations of the old roots, which should
be cut up into pieces of about twro inches in length, and
planted in March or April, three or four inches deep, at the
distance before directed for the plants.

At the approach of winter the leaves will die away, and
disappear. The beds should then be thickly covered with
dung, leaves, or sea-weed ; this will not only protect the
plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in
the spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this
may be taken off, or, if well rotted, it may be mixed up with
the earth ; the crowns of the plants should then be. covered
to the depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching.

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some common
sand and gravel ; and others with large garden pots, inverted
and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be
covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots
in growth, and make them sweeter and more tender.

When your plants have been covered in either method
three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the
stalks, have shot up three or £our inches, you may begin cut-
ting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable
length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this
plant there is not that successsive growth which there is in
Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the heads
of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you uncover it

96 SEA-KALE.

entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Broccoli is
usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent
substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant ;
as Broccoli does not stand our winter frosts, and can only be
had wrhen carefully protected, as recommended when treat-
ing of that vegetable ; but Sea-Kale is sufficiently hardy to
bear our winter frosts, without much injury. You are not
to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case
it would injure their next year's bearing : some of the shoots
should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper vegetation,
and strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be
taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the roots by cut-
ting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed
soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly de-
pends on its not being long exposed to the air.

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a
small bed,' about three feet wide, and thirty inches deep ; fill
it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. This will make
the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them, it
will accelerate their growth.

To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be
cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water,
seasoned with salt, for half an hour ; then wash it in fresh
water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling
briskly, skim clean, and let off steam. When the stalks are
tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five
minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and
serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments
as are most agreeable to the palate.

SHALLOT. 97

SKIRRET.
CHERVIS, ou GYROLE. Slum sisarym.

THIS plant is first cultivated by seed, and afterward by off-
sets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in the
spring, before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to raise a
small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer
than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky.
The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of March,
or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnip,
&c. In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots are
fit to use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring.

Skirrets should be planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry
land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet.

The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy
tubers as large as a man's finger, and joined together at the
top. They are eaten~boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper,
and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil
and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste
and flavour of a Parsnip, and are by some considered a great
deal more palatable.

SHALLOT.
ECHALOTE. Jillium ascalonicum.

THE true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is considered
to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Jlllium
genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation.

It is propagated by planting bulbs, or offsets, in the fall of
the year, which. may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve
inches apart, and from four to six inches distant in the rows ;
or they may be placed in drills, two or three inches deep,
and covered up with a trowel or hoe.

The gardeners about New- York plant large quantities of
the bulbs toward the end of August, and early in Septem-

98 SPINACH, OR SPINAGE.

ber ; by this means they are enabled to supply the market
in April and May with a mild Jlllium, which while green
meets a ready sale.

Those intended for seed may remain in the ground until
June or July ; after the tops have decayed, the bulbs must
be taken up, and the offsets divided : these should be kept in
a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn.

It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured
when first taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an
acre ; because after they are trimmed and deprived of their
seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half.

SPINACH, OR SPINAGE.
EPINARD. Spinacia.

VARIETIES.

Large Round-leaved. 1 Holland, or Lamb's Quarter

Broad-leaved Savoy. New Zealand.

THE Spinacia oleracea. or common Spinach, is very hardy,
and consequently a very important vegetable for cold cli-
mates. It merits attention from its being extremely whole-
some and palatable, and from its keeping green even after
having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when served
up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c.

As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to ad-
vantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should, to-
wards the end of August, prepare such ground as may have
been occupied by summer crops, and by having it well ma-
nured for this crop, it will be in good condition for Beets,
Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., the spring following.

If the ground be got ready, so as to have several beds
sown in succession, from the first to the end of September,
the most forward of these, if covered up with straw at the
approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table
when other vegetables are scarce, and the later crops will

SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 99

recover the effects of a hard winter, and produce a whole-
some vegetable early in the spring.

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and
April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the ap-
proach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise it in
perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills about a
foot apart, and be frequently hoed ; this will keep it in a
growing state, and, consequently, prevent its running up to
seed as quick as it otherwise would.

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground;
let the ground be well manured with good strong dung, and it
will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce.

If Spinach be cultivated in drills a foot apart, it will re-
quire from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre
of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that
quantity in sowing broad-cast.

Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash
it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook
Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in
water ; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan that will
just hold it, without water, then strew a little salt upon it,
and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick fire ;
and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to the bot-
tom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is done.
In order that it may be rendered capable of absorbing a
moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c., which are
indispensable with green vegetables, let it be well drained
in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished.

The New Zealand Spinach, or Tetragona expansa, is not
much cultivated in this country ; its nature seems to be op-
posite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat
better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer,
by planting the seed in April and May. Being of luxuriant
growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and
about two seed in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use dur-
ing the summer, and until late in the autumn.

100 SQUASH.

SQUASH.
GOURDE GIRAUMON ou POTIRON. Cucurbita melopepa.

VARIETIES.

Early Bush Scollop.
Green Striped Bush.
Early Crookneck.
Large Cushaw.

Vegetable Marrow.
Winter Crookneck.
Lima Cocoanut.
Acorn, or California.

THE several varieties of Squash are very useful in this and
other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection in
the summer, and therefore prove a good substitute for Tur-
nips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot weather.
They should be planted in May and June, in hills, prepared
in the same manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their
subsequent management is the same in every respect. The
bush kinds should be planted three or four feet apart, and
the running kinds from six to nine, according to their nature,
as some will run more than others. It is always best to
plant five or six seed in a hill, to guard against accidents ; as
when the plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two
or three in a hill. One ounce of Squash seed will plant from
fifty to a hundred hills, according to the sorts and size of the
seed.

The fruit of the Early Summer Squash is generally gath
ered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so ten
der as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail.
The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and collect-
ed together in October, in the manner recommended in the
Calendar for that month.

All kinds of Squashes should, after having been boiled
tender, be pressed as close as possible between two wooden
trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the
same material, until dry, and then prepared for the table in
the same manner as Turnips.

TOMATO. 101

TOMATO
TOMATE, ou POMME D'AMOUR. Solanum lycopersicwn.

VARIETIES.

Large Red. Pear-shaped.

Large Yellow. Cherry-shaped.

THE Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for its
fruit, which is used in soups and sauces, to which it imparts
an agreeable acid flavour ; it is also stewed and dressed in
various ways, and is considered very wholesome.

The seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot-
bed, and the plants set out in the c<!pe^n, ground, if settled
warm weather, in the early part of Miy^ '''In ^invate' ga*-
dens it will be necessary to plant* them near & ferce, cr to
provide trellises for them to be traiiieo: tc, iii the manner
recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will, however, do very
well, if planted four feet distant from each other every way.

Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the sum
mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week
in May ; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June,
and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves, or for catsup.

One ounce of good Tomato seed will produce upward of
four thousand plants ; and a single plant has been known to
yield upward of a bushel of fruit.

Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen
pot, for use in the winter, by covering them with water in
which a /sufficient quantity of salt has been dissolved to make
it strong enough to'bear an egg. Select perfectly ripe ber-
ries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a manner that it
presses upon the fruit without bruising it. Previous to cook-
ing these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in fresh water
for several hours.

Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious ve-
getable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and used
either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute for
Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exqusite pies
and tarts, and excellent catsup.

9*

102 TURNIP.

A celebrated writer observes, that " the common Tomato
made into a gravy, by stewing over the fire, and used as a
sauce for meat, has been known to quicken the action of the
liver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he ever
made use of." He states farther, that " when afflicted with
inaction of the bowels, headache, a bad taste of the mouth,
straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful heaviness of
the region of the liver, the whole of these symptoms are
removed by Tomato sauce, and the mind, in the course of
some few hours, is put in perfect tune."

To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one
peck of Tomatoes ; bruise them, and let them stand two
.days ; then strain them dry, and boil the juice until the scum
coase3 to rise; wi'th two ounces of black pepper, the same
quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger, one of
cloves, and half an ounce of mace.

TURNIP.
NAVET. Brassica rapa.

VARIETIES.

Early Garden Stone.
Early White Dutch.
Early Snow Ball.
Early Red Top.
Strap Leaved Red Top.
Early Green Top
Yellow Aberdeen.
Long White.

Large English Norfolk.

Long Tankard, or Hanover.

White Flat, or Globe.

Yellow Maltese.

Yellow Stone.

Dale's Yellow Hybrid.

Long Yellow.

Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga.

THIS is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and
beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. It being the last
Esculent vegetable in our catalogue, that is raised from seed
sold at the various seed stores, I shall endeavour to stimulate
those of our yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the cul-
ture of this field as well as garden production, to exertion
and diligence, by inserting a few extracts from a paper that
now lies before me.

TURNIP. 103

" Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the eigh-
teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in gar-
dens, or other small spots, for culinary purposes ; but Lord
Townsend, who attended King George the First in one of
his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secretary of
State, observing the Turnip cultivated in open and extensive
fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands
naturally barren, on his return to England brought over some
of the seed, and strongly recommended the practice which
he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who
occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experiment
succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread
over the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into
every other district of England. Some of the finest grain
crops in the world are now growing upon land, which be-
fore the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a
very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half-starved
rabbits."

Mr. Colquhoun, in his * Statistical Researches,'' estimated
the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, at fourteen million
pounds sterling, (equal to upward of SIXTY MILLIONS OF DOL-
LARS.) But when we farther recollect, that it enables the
agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which, without its
aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness ;
that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and also
insures a good crop of Barley, and a kind plant of Clover ;
and that this Clover is found a most excellent pieparative
for Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent advantages
derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely exceed its
estimated value as fodder for cattle.

The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may
be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other
things of equal value. It must, however, be granted, that
some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better
than others, and that, in general, exotic plants will succeed

104 TURNIP.

best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil.
As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young
Gardener, if he has a very light soil, which is not suitable
for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops of
Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop
in March, and that for his second about the middle of August.
For general crops, it will be better to have ground manured
with short rotten dung, or compost containing a considerable
proportion of coal, wood, peat, or soapers' ashes. Ground
that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also
ground fresh broken up, will do well for Turnips.

It is important that particular attention be paid to the time
of sowing the seed ; for if the first crop be not sown soon
enough to be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for
the table, being hot, stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop in-
tended for autumn and winter use is sown before August,
unless it be a very favourable season, if they even escape
the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective,
that they seldom keep through the winter.*

To have Turnips in perfection, they should be hoed in
about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants
have spread to a circle of about four inches, and again about
a month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine
inches apart. They will yield the cultivator more profit
when treated in this way, than when left to nature, as is too
frequently done.

* Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should procure a suitable
quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks
of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout
within forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently whole
crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either
of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quantity of ashes, or even
dry road dust, scattered over the ground, morning and evening, for the first
week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided the
composition be used in such a way that the wind carry it over the whole
plot ; and as the wind often changes, this end may be effected by crossing
the land in a different direction each time, according as the wind may serve.
If gardeners who raise Radishes, Cabbage, and such other vegetables as are
subject to the attacks of insects, were to pursue this course, they would
save themselves from considerable loss.

TURNIP. 105

It is generally admitted that one" pound of Turnip seed is
amply sufficient for an acre of ground, yet some will use
considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so
small a quantity of seed regularly broad-cast. This difficulty
is, however, obviated by sowing the seed in drills ; and al-
though it may seem a tedious process to those who have no
other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities thus af-
forded of hoeing between the rows, more than compensate
for the extra labour.

I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of
Turnip seed, in August, in drills a foot apart, by which
means he made it extend over more than half an acre of
land ; and by hoeing the plants twice, he had the gratifica-
tion of pulling four hundred bushels of handsome Turnips,
which is more than is generally taken from an acre of land
cultivated in the ordinary way.

If seed of the Russia or Swedish Turnip be sown in drills,
any time in the month of July, or even early in August, they
will produce fine roots toward the end of October, pro-
vided the land be good, and well worked. When- the plants
are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance
of twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing
will be necessary in five or six weeks afterward. This will
make them grow freely. If cultivated in the field, frequent
ploughing between the rows will be beneficial.

The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in
England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by
epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To
have them in perfection, they should, after having been de-
prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans-
versely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let
them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible; at the same
time, let a lump of butter and a due proportion of Cayenne
pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Turnips
until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the meat
unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed.

106 AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

GRAINES D'HERBES AROMATIZES, ODORIFERANTES ET A
L'USAGE DE LA CUISINE.

Angelica, Garden, Angelica atropurpurea'

Anise, Pimpinella anisum.

Basil, Sweet, Ocymum basilicum.

Borage, Borago officinalis.

Burnet, Garden, Poturium sanguisorba.

Caraway, Carum carui.

Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, Scandix odorata cerefolium.

Clary, Salvia sclara.

Coriander, Coriandrum sativum.

Dill, Anethum graveolens.

* Fennel, Common, Anethum faeniculum.

* Fennel, Sweet, Anethum dulce.
Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis.

* Marjoram, Sweet, Origanum marjorana.

* Mint, Spear, Mentha virides.

* Mint, Pepper, Mentha piperita.

, * Mint, Pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium.

* Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis.

* Sage, Red, Salvia clandestinoides.
Savory, Summer, Saturcja hortensis.

* Savory, Winter, Suture j a montana.

* Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus.

* Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris.

* Thyme, Lemon, Thynius serpyllum.

AROMATIC Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour
and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs,
and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only
a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a
by-corner may be allotted for them, and such medicinal herbs
as may be wanted in a family.

It may be necessary to explain, as we go along, that there
are three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely,
Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The Annuals being but
of one season's duration, are raised every year from seed.
The Biennials are raised from seed one year, continue till
the second, then perfect their seed, and soon after die; some
of these should also be raised every year from seed. The
Perennials may be raised from seed, but when once raised,
they will continue on the same roots many years. Those

MEDICINAL HERBS.

107

marked * are of the latter description, and maybe propagated
by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or parting the roots. Those
who have not already a plantation of these herbs, may sow
the seed of any of the different kinds in April or May, in
drills about half an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, each
kind by itself. The plants may afterward be transplanted
into separate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two
feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants
afterward thinned out to proper distances, according to the
natural growth of the different kinds of plants.

PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND
OTHER PURPOSES.

GRAINES DE PL ANTES MEDICINAL.

Bene,

Boneset, or Thoroughwort,

*BaIm,

Bean, Castor Oil,

Burdock,

Catnep,

Celandine,

* Chamomile,

* Comfrey,

* Elecampane,
Feverfew,

* Horehound,

* Horsemint,

* Hyssop,

* Lavender,
Lovage,

* Mallow, Marsh,

* Motherwort,

* Patience Dock,

* Pinkroot, Carolina,
Poppy Opium, (annual,)

* Rosemary,

* Rue, Garden,
Saffron, Bastard,
Skullcap, or Mad Dog Plant.
Snakeroot, Virginian,

* Sorrel,

Sesamum orientate.
Eupatorium pcrfoliatum,
Melissa qfficinalis.
Ricinus communls.
Arclium lappa.
Nepeta cat aria.
Chelidonum ma jus.
Anthemis nobilis.
Symphytum qfficinalc.
Inula fielenium.
Chrysanthemum parthenium.
Marubiam vulgare.
Monarda pundata.
Hyssopus officinalis.
Lavendula spica.
Ligusticum levisticum.
Althea qfficinalis.
Leonurus cardiaca.
Rurnex patientia.
Spigelia Marylandica.
Papaver somniferum.
Rosmarinus officinalis.
Rut a graveolens.
Cartharnus tinctorius.
Scutellaria lateriflora.
Aristolochia, serpentaria.
Rumex acetosa.

108 AROMATIC HERBS, ETC.

* Southernwood, Artemisia abrotanum.

* Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica.

* Spikenard, Aralia racemosa.

* Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare.

* Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium.

THE generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs
may be raised from seed sown in April and May. The
greater part of the above-mentioned plants are Perennial,
and will multiply from the seed they drop, or from partings
from the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus
raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other
early in the spring.

The beds should afterward be kept free from weeds, and
as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry
day, and spread in a shady place to dry, for winter use. The
best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub
them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in
bottles or boxes, each kind by itself ; they should be after-
ward kept in a dry place.

In the month of October, the herb beds should be exam-
ined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, should
be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or greenhouse
for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, Southern-
wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be
neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansy,
Pennyroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint,
Lovage, and other kinds of hardy Perennial Herbs, should
be cut down close to the ground.

After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and
loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ;
but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint,
Running Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well
admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down,
and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and strew some
of the loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the ground
be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung
will be of considerable service.

PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. 109

This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to
the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the garden, and
in spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour.

Having finished the Catalogue, I will now proceed to give
directions for making the most of a piece of ground well
manured for early crops. In the general directions at the
commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis-
pensably necessary to the production of some particular
kinds of vegetables ; it may be farther observed, that rich
ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re-
quires some attention, to make use of it to the best advan-
tage. If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in
March or April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Toma-
toes, Egg-plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Ra-
dishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other small salads on it, by leav-
ing a space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be
sown lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but
they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure
the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires
a little consideration before a second is planted, in order that
a sufficient quantity of the best ground may be reserved for
the most particular and valuable varieties of vegetables.

That I may be understood, I have adopted the following
plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same
purpose as bringing my readers on the ground.

No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart.
March 25. — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed.

March 25. — Sow Radish seed.

March 25.- — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed.

The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter-
mediate ground for the other plants.

10

110 PLAN OP BEDS, ETC.

No. 2. Drills ten inches apart.

April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed.

April 15. — Plant early Cabbage Plants.

^^BMPi

April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed.

By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground,
the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered.

If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle
of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black
Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late-heading kinds,
the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach,
Fetticus, Lettuce, &c., in which case it will require a fresh
coat of manure

No. 3. Drills twelve inches apart.

March 20.— Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish.

March 20. — Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed.

March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings or Horse-radish.

If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on
this bed, which should be pulled while young.

Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth, and
when full grown, they may be gathered, without disturbing
the Horse-radish. [See article Horse-radish.]

PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. Ill

No. 4. Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart.
March 20. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants.

March 20. — Pant hardy Lettuce plants.

Hoe them the first week in April ; previous to hoeing the
second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and
plant Beet or Carrot seed ; this may be covered up in hoe-
ing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong,
the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended
to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cab-
bage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c.

No. 5. Rows, or drills, sixteen inches apart.
March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants.

March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants.

April 20. — Plant Early York Cabbage plants, either between the rows or
between the Lettuce.

As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it will
soon cover the ground.

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the va-
rieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which
are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with
Cabbage twice in succession.

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen of
what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If the

112

HOT-BEDS.

young gardener takes the trouble to keep an account of his
transactions, he will soon make discoveries of still greater
importance. If not sufficiently acquainted with the different
varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance, so as to distinguish
the one from the other, by making a memorandum at the
time of sowing the seed he will soon get acquainted with the
different varieties of plants ; he will also discover the differ-
ence in the growing of his seed, and know who to blame if
any particular kind should not come up.

The following represents a Hot-bed with four sashes, sown
March 1 :

Early Dwarf,

Early Battersea,

Early Lettuce,

Egg-plant

Tomato Seed,

Seed, &c.

Early York,

Drumhead, or

Peppers,

partitioned off

or other spring

other summer

&c- in shallow

as directed in

note to article

Cabbage Seed.

Cabbage Seed.

drills.

Egg-plant.

It may be necessary to remind my readers of the neces
eity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, To-
mato, and Egg-plant seed in hot-beds the last week in Feb-
ruary, or early in March ; for this purpose, let some fresh
stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some
gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is
always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to
two feet deep;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug

* When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should
be made on level ground, in order that linings may be applied to the out-
side of the frame, which, by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of the
bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would otherwise
suffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions, see Observa-
tions on Forcing Vegetables ; also, article on Forcing Asparagus.

HOT-BEDS. 113

in autumn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the
ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and
good earth may be obtained from the pits without any diffi-
culty.

The frames should be made of good sound planks ; the
back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may be
so sloped as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front.
A frame calculated for four sashes, of three feet in width by
six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen
feet long, and about six broad at the top.

The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened,
the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the
depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in a
good heating condition, cover it six or eight inches deep
with mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds
from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days
the rank steam will pass off; it will then be necessary to stir
the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth
of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the
seed either in shallow drills or broad-cast, as equally as pos-
sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be
sown lightly over the seed. The beds should afterward
be attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower.
This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the
raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such
other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds
made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a
greater quantity of manure. [See Calendar for January,
February, and March.]

10*

114

OBSERVATIONS

FORCING VEGETABLES.

BEFORE I commenced preparing this work for the press,
I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing
fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my
motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con-
cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the
greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the seve-
ral branches of Horticulture, some are of greater importance
than others ; and as the products of the kitchen garden form
important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should
be our first care to treat largely on the subject of this most
useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of
fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowers,
each of which will be noticed in their respective departments.

As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or
rather forwarding vegetables, by artificial means, I shall en-
deavour to confine my observations to such points as are of
primary importance ; and in order to convince my readers
of the importance of this subject, I shall first endeavour to
show the utility of an artificial climate suited to the various
species of useful plants. In England, a regular succession
of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground every
month in the year, and the fruits of that country, from the
summer heat being moderate, are of longer continuance
than with us, and yet the English make gardening a science,
and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity of man,
in the production of fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary
season.

ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 115

I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine-
apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing-
houses ; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to
raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c., in frames throughout the se-
vere winters of our Northern States ; but it must be acknow-
ledged, that the extreme heat of our summers is as detri-
mental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds
of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and
for these reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the
winter and spring of the year than in England. The inhabi-
tants of that country obtain a supply of the different varieties
of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower,
Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and
salads in general, a great part of the year from their kitchen
gardens, whereas, if we were to attempt to supply our mar-
kets with culinary vegetables at all times, in any thing like
the abundance that they have them there, we must, out of the
ordinary season for gardening operations, turn our attention to
the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system.

Before I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta-
bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that
in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the
nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour
to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish
and support them. I have, in another part of this work,
endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are
each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup-
plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances.

In the midst of our Northern winter, which is the usual
time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west
winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have
not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not
be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any
kind of vegetable, until such time as he can impart a tole-
rable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will
soon destroy the fruits of his labour.

116 ON FORCING VEGETABLES.

Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames,
is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of
March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials
must be regulated by the season of the year at which the
work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the
hot-beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising
half-hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the
spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the
common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is required to be
kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings
as the heat decreases ; and the dung should undergo a regu-
lar process of preparation, according to the use it is intended
for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to
furnish suitable mould to the different species of plants ; for
this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan,
turf, sand, and other light manures and decayed animal dung,
should be collected together.

In some cases, when a slight hot-bed is recommended for
forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling
Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose
for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed
may be spawned for Mushroons, if required.

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the
winter is past, great precaution must be used, lest the plants
be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for
want of air. To prevent the former accident, warm dung
should be placed around the frames, and the sashes covered
with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be ad-
mitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to
let off the steam ; at the same time mats may be laid over
the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants.

If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some-
times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is
generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake
sharpened at the end, or with a crow:bar ; which holes should
be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining

FORCING ASPARAGUS. 117

hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes
may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings,
so as to enliven the heat of the bed.

A Fahrenheit thermometer should always be at hand at
the time of forcing, to be used, when necessary, to regulate
the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in cultiva-
ting plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature
of the air, or according to the heat required for the various
kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed articles.

FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS.

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme
bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less
trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds,
because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suita-
ble bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in the
usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves,
be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before
it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no choice of
materials, he may make his liotvbed in the usual way, and if
the depth of heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a
foot of old hot-bed dung, tan, or any light compost, that will
admit of the heat passing through it.

It may be necessary to state farther, that though too much
bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the pro-
duction of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is gene-
rally effected in a month or six weeks after the commence-
ment of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a
regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around
the frame, and changed as occasion requires.

Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old,
trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when
one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then
proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep-

118 FORCING ASPARAGUS.

ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay,
till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the
buds and roots some fine vegetable or other rich mould, work
it in among them with your fingers, and cover the beds over
about an inch thick ; and upon that, lay three inches in
depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, or any
other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly
through.

If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the sashes
till it begins to decline. The temperature at night should
never be under 50°, and it may rise to 65° without injury ;
when the buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily
admitted as the weather will permit. In two or three days
after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise : the
beds should then have a moderate supply of water, applied
from a watering-pot with the rose attached ; repeat such
watering every three or four days.

When the buds are up three inches above the surface,
they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven
inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of
the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them
off from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ;
at least, it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come
up thick in succession.

An ordinary-sized frame calculated for three sashes will
hold from three to five hundred plants, according to their age
and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every
day for about three weeks. On the above estimate, if a con-
stant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be neces-
sary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty days.

Rhubarb and Sea-Kale may be, and sometimes are, forced
in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most general
mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden,
by the application of warm dung.

FORWARDING BEANS. 119

FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH
DWARFS.

IN the article Broad Beans, (Vicia faba,) I have already
urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full
crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ;
but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to
be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes,
and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in
March. If the plants thus raised be not made too tender,
they may te transplanted into the open ground the latter end
of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit early
in June.

Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of
ground late in autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing;
and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame
placed over the spot and protected from extreme cold, the
seedlings may be raised therein, and transplanted into the
garden, as directed in article, page 39.

Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or frames,
may, in the month of February, plant some of the seed about
two inches deep in boxes kept in the cellar, or in earth on
the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant in the
open garden toward the latter end of March or early in April.

FORCING KIDNEY BEANS.

THE most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised
in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to mature
them. The temperature within the frames should be kept
up to 60°, and may rise to 70° or 75°, provided the steam be
let oif. In order to insure sufficient heat to bring them into
a bearing state, the plants may be first raised in small pots
plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared,

120 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.

earthed over with light rich compost, six inches deep, and
the Beans planted therein, and covered one inch.

The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth
of eight or nine inches, and the Beans transplanted as soon
as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve
or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in the rows,
or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced
that one bed, with the help of linings, will biing the plants
well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain
for podding ; or if the gardener should choose to mature his
crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or
pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm
border early in May.

Beans raised in hot-beds will require considerable atten-
tion. Cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ;
admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle water-
ings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in growth,
to strengthen them.

FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.

IN treating of the method of cultivating this family of
plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an
artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce
them to arrive at full perfection in the winter and early part
of the spring. Gardeners who have provided frames for the
purpose of making hot-beds, in the spring, may make use
of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cau-
liflower ; and as the frames will not be wanted until the se-
verity of the winter is past, such plants as are left at that
season may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or
litter, as occasion may require.

If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the plants
raised in the preceding autumn should be transplanted from
the beds into the open ground, in the month of March, and

FORCING CUCUMBERS. 121

be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading
before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is
very injurious to Cauliflower.

FORCING CUCUMBERS.

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an
object of emulation with every gardener. The business of
forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks
before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should
be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short
Prickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed
two or three years old is generally preferred, as it is not so apt
to run to vines.

The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich
mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seed in
the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either
case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two
seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting
three plants in each pot ; when this is done, apply water
warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the
glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over
the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are
about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit-
ing bed.

To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor-
tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is
made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires
turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and
sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap,
turned three times, and well mixed with a fork ; if any ap-
pears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between
the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have
a regular fermentation.

A dry situation should be chosen on which to form beds,
11

122 FORCING CUCUMBERS.

so that no water can settle under the dung. Tne substance
of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to
four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould
should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a
lively, regular-tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over
the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain a few days
examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are disco-
vered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour and caking,
it will be fit to receive the plants ; but if the earth appears
burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should
be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get
warm ; at the same time, vacancies should be made to give
vent to the steam, by running down stakes.

After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and
the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth
formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each
sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of
the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out"*-
such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their
roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid-
dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered
with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and kept
shaded till they have taken root.

The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and may rise
to 80° without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed
to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely
linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the
frame. Begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the
old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two
feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the
frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the
remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be care-
ful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all op-
portunities.

Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild
day, in early forcing ; and in the afternoon^ in the advanced

FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123

season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated
with sheep or pigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread,
and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather-
ing up the earth around them, for which purpose a supply
of good mould should be kept ready at hand, to be used as
required.

When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them,
by pinching off the tops, after which they generally put forth
two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or
two clear joints, and then stop them also ; and afterward con-
tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint; this
will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the
fruit early.

The following artificial operation is recommended by
Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the
production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In
plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation
is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms
are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation.

" The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, " bears male
and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat-
ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature,
close under the base, even before the flower expands. There
is never any in the males ; but these are placed in the vici-
nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis-
persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ;
the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its full size,
and the seed will be abortive. The early plants under glass,
not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance
of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the
artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the im-
pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants
daily; and as soon as the female flowers and some male
blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the
same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off a male
blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this

124 FORWARDING LETTUCE.

between the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower leaves,
or petals, close to the stamens and antherae, or central part,
which apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female
flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some
particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set
every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively
full expansion ; and generally perform it in the early part of
the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna
lion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female
blossoms. By this management, the young fruit will soon be
observed to swell freely."

Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from
fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and often
in succession for two or three months or more, in the same
beds, by good culture.

FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND
GLASSES.

IF it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at
an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before
directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth,
or in hot-bed ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for
each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in
cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The
plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking off the glass
in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they
may be left to nature.

FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER.

HEAD Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter
season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made
in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 125

plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce
as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green,
the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to
sow ; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow-
ing seed two or three times between the middle of August
and the first week in September. The plants from these
sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds,
when they are one or two inches high.

In September and early in October, some of the Silesia,
Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts,
may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of
sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks ;
these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and
December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup-
ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at-
tention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds,
as for other half-hardy plants.

FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS.

THE Jlgaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in
the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon
various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it
is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. London
says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size,
by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell.
In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate
colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other
kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly
resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour,
and has a disagreeable smell.

Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true
Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should
be gathered only in such places.

Unwholesome /imgi will sometimes spring up on artificial

126 FORCING MUSHROOMS.

beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a
spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine
Mushrooms. The poisonous toad-stool, Agaricus cirocus,
may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau-
seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any
thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion,
drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds,
however, invariably emit a grateful, rich odour. The Jlga-
ricus campestris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering
mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably
larger, but are inferior in flavour ; he says " that a plant of
the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir-
mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds ; and Mr. Stack-
house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a
stem as thick as a man's wrist."

Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year,
by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming
the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma-
king a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into
the top mould of old hot-beds.

The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and
of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous
spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and
October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in the
paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks
under shelter ; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and
dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good
quality may often be seen beginning to form on the surface,
like large peas ; when these are absorbed, it is time to take
out the spawn, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung,
the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces
of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mush-
room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate
use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep
three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to
it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 127

is a current of air ; but if it be not completely dried, the
spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the
extremes of heat, cold, or moisture.

Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac-
quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive,
from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply
a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca-
pable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order to
have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as
to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh
horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ;
add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of
good earth, to cement it together; mash the whole into a
thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the shape
of bricks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent-
ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or
two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of
spawn the size of an egg : the bricks should then be laid
where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse
dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile
the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is
snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm
horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow
through the whole. When the spawn has spread itself
through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and
they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushroom
spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve-
getating powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid
up ; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself.

Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open
air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy
rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the
same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses.
They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in
houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo-
derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur-

128 FORCING MUSHROOMS.

pose in the winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but
little water, the application of which frequently proves inju-
rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also
be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situa-
tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark
frames or pits.

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare
a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, about a yard
in thickness, more or less, according to the size and situa-
tion in which the bed is to be formed j when the strong heat
has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it,
and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches
apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch
thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well
constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks,
and will continue to produce for several months, if care be
taken in gathering, riot to destroy the young ones. As
Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should
be spread carefully over the bed.

Beds made in a convenient place, where there is space all
around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces,
similar to the roof of a house ; this, by being spawned on
the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr.
Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are
his directions, taken from London's Encyclopedia of Gar-
dening :

" After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel,
or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from
under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick.
These should be new from the stables, and must not be
broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected
every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the
above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment
or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should
bo as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be
carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When this

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129

course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermen-
tation, cover it to the thickness of two inches with light, dry
earth ; if sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whe-
ther it be rich or not, the only use of earth here being for
spawn to run and mass in. Now lay another course of drop-
pings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of
fermentation : then a third course, which, in like manner,
earth all over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very
strong and productive one, if properly managed afterward.

" Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little
rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or
moist than the sides. This may be done in forming the sole
or floor at first, and the bed would then be of equal strength
in all parts. If it be made up against a wall in a cellar,
stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the
back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I
have sometimes been contented with two courses as above,
instead of three ; and often, when materials were scarce,
have made them up slighter, thus : three four-inch courses
of droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a
two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I have had
produce for ten or .twelve months together ; but very much
depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken
in making it up, also on the after management.

" The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those
of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce
few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm
horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and
from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay;
treated them in the same way in every respect ; and have
found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most
productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro-
cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun-
try, any time of the year ; and if the supply be plentiful, a
bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished
within five or six weeks. In as many more weeks, if in a

130 FORCING MUSHROOMS.

stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce,
and often sooner ; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it
will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mush-
rooms."

It may be necessary to state farther, that extremes of heat,
cold, drought, and moisture, should be avoided in the culti-
vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50° in
the winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds
may rise to 60° or even 70° without injury. Air also must
be admitted in proportion to the heat, and 60° should be
aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a
little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the
spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose
should always be made blood warm. A light covering of
straw may be used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and
if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise subject to
exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made
in a cellar.

Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms after having
been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn
is injured or destroyed ; but if, on the contrary, a bed that
has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to
be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with
warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the
whole. If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a
month, take off the earth ; and if, on examination, there is
no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed; but
if, on the contrary, the bed should contain spawn, it may be
renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tuber-
cles be discernible ; if the heat should have declined, the
spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds
oe formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw
must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of
the sun.

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been
introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds.

FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131

In Poland and Russia there are above thirty kinds in com-
mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe-
rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways : rarw,
boiled, stewed, roasted ; and being hung up, and dried in
their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock
of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting
Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather
any but the kinds we have described.* Physicians say,
" That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated
before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens
the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen,
vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege
table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or
that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic
remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall-
nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa-
ble of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms."
It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well-
known kinds.

FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES.

ALTHOUGH our citizens have an opportunity of procuring
Melons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short,
it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc-
tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will
apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, however,
must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the
time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops
being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being

* In order to ascertain whether what appear to be Mushrooms are of the
true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part ; if, in
a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black,
they may be considered as genuine Mushrooms.

132 FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS.

raised too near each other. Those who wish to forward
Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise
plants in ; the beds may be formed and the plants managed
in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers.
If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied
to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than
the usual time.

Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets,
may gratify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing
the forwarding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be
prepared in the following manner : In April or May, a trench
may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and
three wide, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses
as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every
hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits,
managed the same as a common hot-bed ; to this must be
added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches
for the plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm, the
seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after
which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After
the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses
should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit
fresh air ; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be
taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the
plants gradually to the weather ; and by the latter end of
May they may be left to nature.

FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS.

THE best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the
most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three
years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw.
Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they
are sown where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised
in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots

FORCING POTATOES. 133

or boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempe-
rature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50° for the
nursery-bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting.

When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they
may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches
apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from
twelve to eighteen inches in depth.

As the Peas pi ogress in growth, the earth should be stir-
red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied,
so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold ; and
they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup-
port themselves.

When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly
promotes the forming and filling of the pods ; they will re-
quire to be regularly watered, and as the v spring advances
they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to sneuei
them in the event of a sudden change.

FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS.

POTATOES may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those
who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course
provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro-
duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa-
reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this description.

Potatoes may be forwarded in giowth previous to being
planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar.
Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature
them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in
which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty
inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient
to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months.

Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this
elimate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in
each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed

12

134 FORWARDING RADISHES, ETC.

can be prepared in February, in which put the pots. While
the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots,
prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in
the mould with the balls of earth attached to them.

The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should
be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes
may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight
hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders,
a quantity of comb-maker's shavings may be deposited in
each hill ; this will greatly promote their growth.

FORWARDING RADISHES, &c.

RADISHES may be obtained early in the spring by means
of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be
a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after
they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If
they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one or
two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion re-
quires, and keep them well covered in cold nights.

For raising early Radishes without frames, hot-beds may
be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or
pliant rods, which should be covered with mats at night, and
during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days,
turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and on fine mild days,
take them wholly off, and harden the plants gradually to the
weather.

Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads or pot
herbs, may be raised in the same way, by sowing the seed in
drills and keeping the ground clear of weeds.

FORWARDING RHUBARB. 135

*jttfe*/<

FORWARDING RHUBARB. .

THOSE who may desire to have this excellent substitute for
fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble.
It is customary with some persons in the southern parts of
England, to keep this plant growing in their kitchens, so that
they may have it for use at any time. They have strong
neat boxes, made for the purpose, about three feet deep and
two wide, and in length according to the demand, from four
to eight feet ; these being kept clean, have the appearance
of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so contrived as to have
shelves over them in imitation of a kitchen dresser. The
plants being taken up out of the garden towards winter, are
placed as close at the bottom of the box as they can be, with
their crowns level : and some sand being thrown over, suf-
ficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns
about half an inch, finishes the operation. No farther
trouble is necessary, except to give a little water, just to keep
the roots moist, as they need no light at all ; and if the roots
be planted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after
having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were
removed.

Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the autumn, packed in sand,
and deposited in a warm cellar, will produce stalks earlier
than if kept in the garden ; and if placed in hot-beds they
will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season.

t The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis
may be judged of by the following extract from the London
Gardener's Magazine : " Rhubarb, which has for some years
been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing interest, and
more extensively in demand than ever. On the fifth of May,
no less than eight wagon loads, each weighing at least a ton,
with an equal quantity in smaller proportions, were sold in
Covent Garden market alone. One cultivator, Mr. Myatt,
of New Cross, Deptford, had three wagon loads ; he has, I
believe, nearly twenty acres of it under culture." This plant

13$ FORWARDING TOMATOES.

contains an acid as fine as the Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ;
a- square rod'of ground will sujjply a family ; and it may be
used till midsummer or later. [For fuller explanations, see
article Rhubarb.] *

FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS,

&c.

FOR the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad
herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c , in small quanti-
ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good
heating materials, on the top of which may be laid leaf mould,
old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches.
The various kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower-
pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by
being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as
small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or
difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising
annual flower plants at an early season.

FORWARDING TOMATOES.

As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late
years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to
observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat-
ter end of February, or early in March, as directed in former
pages, will grow to the length of four inches and upward by
the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can
with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these
be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots,
they may be kept growing therein until settled warm weather,
and then turned out afad deposited in the ground with the
balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by
the first of April, in the manner recommended for Bush

FORCING VEGETABLES. 137

Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the plants inserted in the earth
at once ; these will produce ripe fruit a month or six weeks
earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way.

FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES^

TIJE following simple method «of forcing vegetables on a
small scale is recommended by a correspondent of a London
magazine :

" Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though
not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one
foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, per-
fectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the
boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must
be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the
boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together.

" Four such boxes at work are sufficient for a moderate
demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and
placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a
fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be
covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly,
watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on
the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other
similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con-
venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn.

" The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but
for this purpose a sufficient stock of three-year-old plants
must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the
necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family.
Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf mould,
or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as thickly as
possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place
in a forcing-house will suit them : on the flue, under the
stage, or, in short, any place where they can enjoy the ne-

1/3

138 FORCING VEGETABLES.

cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush-
rooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also
various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner."

Those who have not the conveniences recommended in a
green-house, &c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The
glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon.

Cmote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable
uries at a season when garden products in general are
comparatively scarce.

It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro-
cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country.
I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful
cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of,
great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth.
If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself
we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of
the garden. My directions are founded on the success
attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this
country. I have also had sufficient experience to warrant
me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the atta*n-
ment of this kind of useful knowledge.

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 189

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP.

HOUBLON. Hmnulus lupuhis.

.
ALTHOUGH the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it

is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not
be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro-
portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens
will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as
a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are
cured, 1 propose giving directions for their management
throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare
their own. My information is collected chiefly from London's
Encyclopaedia of Plants.'

" The Hop has been cultivated in jSurope an unknown
length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving
beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign
of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenous both in Scotland
and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to
the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plants
of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ;
the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There
are several varieties grown in Kent and Surrey, under the
name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c. ; the first is the
most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ;
the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety,
but more subject to blight than the other.*

" The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a
sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as
to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be
well pulverized and manured previous to planting. In Hop
districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a

* Besides these are the Farnham, or Golden Grape, which is cultivated
for an early crop ; and for late picking, the Mayficld Grape, or Ruffler, is
esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the
varieties get mixed, #s they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently
cannot be of one uniform colour and quality.

140 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP.

plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows
six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By some,
five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, which
circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The
plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the
old stools ; each should have two joints or buds : from the
one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from
the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where
they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in
a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene-
rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed
at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones
of six or seven feet. The third year the "Hop generally
comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles,
from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each
circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight
rows. The most durable timber for poles is that oi the Span-
ish Chesnut.

" The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil,
and keeping it free from weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the
poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with bass
or withered rushes ; in eradicating superfluous shoots which
may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth
over the root to nourish the plant.

" Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the
chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist-
ence. Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed.
Before these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the
poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood,
two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off
by women and children. After being carefully separated
from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large
cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks.
When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large
sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to
be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible after

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. ] 41

the) are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable
damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain
long in the green state in which they are picked. In very
warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state,
they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the
kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the
commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season.

" The operation of drying Hops is not materially different
from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con-
struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight
to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet,
or the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop
stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off
the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite
cool, when they are put into bags.

" The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of
the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole
or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After
tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a
large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the
bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest
on the edge of the hole or trap ; and the bag itself being
then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when
a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in
small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity
of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When
the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it
will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop,
and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre-
viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above.
The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets
or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging.
The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the
latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended
to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong
cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air.

142 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP.

" The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the
operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stripped off,
such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni-
cal pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is
formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from
their tops, and their lower ends spread out.

" The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that
of the Hop ; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt.,
but from JO to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop.
The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity
of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and
by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a
Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will
continue so for ten or fifteen years before it requires to be
renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases ; when
young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds ; at a more
advanced stage, it is attacked by the green fly, red spider,
and ottermoth, the larva? of which prey even upon their roots.
The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop ; and
the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at differ-
ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant."

It appears from an article in the ' Genesee Farmer,' that
the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus-
bandry in the State of New- York. A correspondent observes,
that " as fine samples have been grown in Orange and Ma-
dison counties as in any .part of the world. The Hop is con-
sidered somewhat precarious ; but when the season is good,
the profit is very great. The average product may be stated
at 700 Ibs., though it has reached 1,600 Ibs. to the acre ; and
in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars.
The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen
cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord-
ing to these assumed data, would be about seventy dollars to
the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however,
from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry-
ing the crop.

METHOD OP CULTIVATING THE HOP. 143

" The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh-
oouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1834), has been
estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 Ibs., which, had not many
of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would
have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand
dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than
200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the
denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too
early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was
sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked
in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char-
acter of-our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased
by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon form an im-
portant article of export, if their character was raised by
care in their culture and drying, and a w.gid inspection."

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are
considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently
gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The
stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a
strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which
is described by Linnaeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction
of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparma ;
and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with
Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects
of soporifics, which require to be taken internally.

144 OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU-
ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON.

LEST the reader should judge, from my introducing this
subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any
other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the
weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here
offer a few observations in reference to the practice and
prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter of
the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce
above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter 01
wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce
chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as Potatoes. &c.

I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in-
fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many
cases quite the reverse to what these theorists generally ex-
pect ; for instance, if the earth and weather should happen
to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of
seed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most
essential nutriment, moisture; and in consequence of such
seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of
the moon, if that luminary influences the seed at all, in such
case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter.

As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the
foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described,
I shall at once submit to the reader's attention the following
observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated
Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken
to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate
in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons with us,
the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold
weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where
these calculations were made, it is in some respects different :

" From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little
farm, which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since
I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 14/>

sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our
success depended on a proper knowledge and management
of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight
years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science,
and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in
the country makes, untaught, some progress in it ; at least, so
it was with nie. I had actually learned, by silent observa-
tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather,
and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper-
fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like
me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the
family support should not be spoiled by the weather before
it was housed.

" Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the
heavens^with anxiety, examined the different appearances of
the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the
scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds,
the flight of the crovv and swallow, the gambols of the colt,
the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the
seamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs.
From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa-
tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in
reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken
in my reckoning.

" About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the
work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro-
fessing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times
of change, full, and quarters of the moon. I have carefully
consulted this table for years, and was amazed at his general
accuracy : for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the
study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be
devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al-
teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob-
servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, as
it has hitherto been confined generally to a few almanacs."

13

146

TABLE AND OBSERVATIONS.

A TABLE

For telling the Weather through all the Lunations of each Year, for ever.

THIS table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years'
actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration of
the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respecting
the earth, and will, by simple inspection, show the observer what kind of
weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its
quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail.

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147
INTRODUCTION

TO

THE MONTHLY CALENDAR

" THE object of this Calendar is to assist the memory oi
the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may
find employment in some of the departments of gardening
in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages
in which farther directions may be found, relative to the
operations adverted to.

In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom-
panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of
the United States, by a minute observance of the difference
of temperature.

It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul-
tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in
the coldest part of our Northern territory; the Calendar,
therefore, for March, maybe applied to the middle of Janu-
ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in
the coldest ; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be
taken in the Southern States after the three spring months,
for the following reasons :

1. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance
than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables
denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in
the open garden from March to August.

2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of
many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can
only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the
latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or
September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49 ; also 52,
72, and 104.]

148 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

3. Many of the half-hardy class, as also those designated
hardy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the winter
months, by forwarding such as are required for early spring
use, after the summer crops are taken off. [See table, expli-
cation, &c., page 26. to 29 ; also page 115.

In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, the annexed
Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying the
directions to the beginning of the first spring month in the
warmest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli-
mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the main
crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view
to their maturity before winter.

JANUARY.

"PROGNOSTICS foretoken most truly some things,
Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs ;
By them from the past we may all ascertain
The future, respecting the winds and the rain."

IT is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent
men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the
results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to
make improved arrangements for the future. The mere
gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may
occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book-
reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he
should frequently take a survey of his former practises and
those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every
thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on
Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to
do in preparing this little work for the press ; not adopt the
mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas,
nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour to erect
his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In
all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the example

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149

of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult
authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man
does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and
leave the residue for others. If this little work should be
considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene-
ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo-
randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of
leisure, in preference to putting it off till it is wanted. I
shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to
the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the
General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has
a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these
should be already at hand, every gardener should provide
manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, drilling
machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of
Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul-
tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames,
he should make arrangements to get compost and heating
materials, in time for the work to be performed in the next
month. If he depends on this book for information, he may
read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30 ; and also
from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables.

FEBRUARY.

"A cold, sour autumn, they sternly maintain,
A long, severe winter will bring in its train ;
If summer and autumn be both dry and warm,
Calm opens the winter, it doses in storm."

ALTHOUGH stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts
its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment
preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and
planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import-
ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure ;
next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants

13*

150 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames
are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair
his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them.
In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or
forcing-pits, let it be kept secure from, heavy falls of snow or
rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being
made into a bed. With a view to give all attention to cul-
ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over
his hardy fruit trees and hardy vines, and commence pruning
them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches ; he
may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for
the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while in a
torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises,
or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em-
brace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in
good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c.

Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well
protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way con-
nected with any building calculated to. harbour rats, mice,
moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in
warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc-
tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the
beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with
water from melted snow, &c. When all is prepared as di-
rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg-
plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112 ; force Asparagus, 117 ;
Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132;
Potatoes, 133; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well
protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54.

After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant
attention ; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at
all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds,
as directed under the different heads, from page 112 to 138.
If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in
page 116 ; and if it should become necessary to let off steam
in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the aoertures

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151

sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu-
nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants
as may be in frames, of last year's sowing.

MARCH.

" IF the sun appear dim, surrounded with haze,
And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays ;
If white at his setting, of power if shorn,
The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a storm."

THIS month affords considerable employment to an indus-
trious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and
distributed in heaps, ready to spread, page 24 ; and the hot-
beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention.
Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air
as the season progresses, to prevent the plants growing weak,
taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the different
kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put
down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables,
they should be attended to in time, as directed.

In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the
weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his
business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at
all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh
trees, shrubs, vines, &c.; are required, these things should be
obtained arid planted this month, if possible. Begin the
work of the kitchen garden as soon as the earth can be
brought into good condition, and transplant hardy Lettuce
plants, 73 ; dress Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhu-
barb, 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95 ; and prepare to make new planta-
tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39 ; Beet
seed, 44; Rape, 47; plant Cauliflower plants under hand-
glasses, 51 and 120; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112; Car-
rot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, in frames,
121; sow Egg-plant seed, 66; plant Horse-radish, 69; Leek,

152 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

71 ; Lettuce, 72 ; plant Melon seed in hot-beds, 132 ; sow
Onion, 78 ; Parsley, SO ; Parsnip, 81 ; Pepper, 82 ; plant
Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, in frames, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 88 and
134; plant Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90; Sea-Kale, 95 ; Skir-
ret, 97; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turnip
seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb
seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with
the hardiest kinds ; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c.,
to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this
month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul-
tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as
may have lain in ridges through the winter, and by manuring
and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and
planting it early in next month.

In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant-
ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de-
layed until the early part of* April ; but it should be borne
in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more
time will be afforded to other important business, as the sea-
son progresses.

APRIL.

" The state of the wind augurs rain, as they say,
When restless in changes, now this, now that way,
Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by,
The rain it betokens is probably nigh."

THIS is certainly the most important month in the year
for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the
planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the
same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul
terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug gr ploughed
this month if possible, and some of the early crops sown
last month will require hoeing and weeding.

Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153

this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of
which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when
too late to sow again. It is also a material consideration to
have the best varieties both of seed and plants of their re-
spective kinds. See page 25.

If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes,
31; Asparagus, 35 ; Beans, Vicia faba, 39 ; towards the end
of the month, plant Beans, Ptiaseolus, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed,
44 ; SOAV late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48 ; not Cape Broccoli
until May; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55 ; Cardoon,
58 ; Carrot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; sow Cress seed, 64 ; plant Cu-
cumber in frames, 124 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Horse Radish,
69; Indian Corn, 70; Jerusalem Artichokes, 70; sow Leek
seed, 71 ; Lettuce seed, 72 ; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132 ;
sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; sow Onion
seed, 78 ; Parsley, 80 ; Parsnip, 81 ; plant Peas, 83 ; Pota-
toes, 85 ; Sweet Potatoes, 86 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; plant
Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90 ; Salsify, 92 ; Scorzonera, 93 ;
Sea Kale, 94 ; sow Skirret, 97 ; Spinach, 99 ; Tomato, 101,
112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Turnip-rooted Cabbage
in varieties, 56 ; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the
seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway,
Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Mangold, Sweet
Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small-
age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and
such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may
be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe-
rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter
Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de-
scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to
the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ;
Rhubarb, 91 ; Sea Kale, 95.

Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds
of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot-
beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in

I

154 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

the open garden. Attend to such other business in this de-
partment as may have been left undone last month, and see
that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds.

" Much dew on the grass portends, as all say,
That day which succeeds will be a clear day ;
But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain,
Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain."

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects.
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees,
and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of
Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c. ; hoe them frequently, and draw
earth to their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms,
caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21 ; thin out the early
plantings of Beets-, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and de-
stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant
an.d sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month ; the
sowing of Celery, Leek, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify
seed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay.
Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Egg-plants, &c., from
the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42 ;
Beet, 44 ; Borecole, 46 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 47 ; Cape
Broccoli, 49 ; Cauliflower, 53 ; Cabbage, 55 and 56 ; Car-
rot, N59 ; Cress, 64 ; plant Cucumber, 65 ; sow Endive,
68; plant Indian Corn, 70; Melon, 74; Water Melon, 75;
sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; Okra, 77 ;
Pepper, 82 ; Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ;
Pumpkins, 87 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; Squash, 100 ;~ Tomato,
101 ; early in this month finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic,
Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the
old hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best
to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week,

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155

and gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter,
and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare
fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130.

Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted
vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion-
ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established
in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young
plants become vigorous.

Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by hand
and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to
eradicate them before .they spread too far, as, by neglect,
they will riot only impede the growth, but eventually smother
the plants.

Toward the end of the month, top such of the English
Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling
of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.]

Those who have young families should not fail sowing
some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a
glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi-
cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown
in drills and managed the same as salad gr Parsley. [See
Herbs, 107.]

JUNE.

" The sky dress'd in placid soft redness at night
Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ;
A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn,
And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm."

THE principal sowing ^seasons for general crops may be
considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which
may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain
the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any
deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad-
vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared
off, and such ground as was manured for the early crops of

156 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent for late
Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops,
and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to
seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene-
ficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 18 to 21
for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and
42 ; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau-
liflower, Cabbage, &c., failed last month, sow again early
this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco
dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page
19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use ;
transplant Cardoons, 58 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59 ; plant
Cucumber seed in hills, 65 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Indian
Corn, 70 ; transplant Leeks, 71 ; Okra seed may be planted
early in this month, 77 ; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak
them five or six hours in water, 83 ; plant Potatoes, 85 ;
Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish
seed, 89; plant Squash, 100.

As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a
dry day, arid spread in a shady place to dry for winter use,
108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have
reached the top, nip off the tops to strengthen the stems, 140.

Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the
main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers,
or lateral heads. [See page 34.]

Earlv Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward
maturity, must be watered in dry weather ; and as the heads
begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large
leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the ?un,
and from rain, 52.

Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and
give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin-
ning, as suggested in page 78.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157

JULY.

" When flowers toward evening their blossoms expand,
And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand ;
But when they close up as if conscious of fear,
They augur its coming — it no doubt is near."

THIS is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage,
Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for
full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants
beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the
rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first
steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there
be the least moisture in the ground when it is freshly turned
over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early
in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity,
may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of
Paris, which will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene-
ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be
delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be
harmless, 55.

If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce
good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month ; plant
Beans, 41 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards,
57 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 6G ; sow Endive
seed, and transplant the former sowing, 68 ; if Peas be
planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six
hours, 83 ; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 85 ;
and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer
Radish seed in drills, 89 ; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed,
in varieties, 56 ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus-
sian Turnip, 105 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed
may be sown toward the end of this month, 104. Attend
to plantations of Hops, 140 ; whatever herbs may be required
for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into
flower ; Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar
joram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may
all be cut this month, 106 to 108.

14

158 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

The business of sowing and transplanting will be more
successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the
approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca-
rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush-
room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm
moderate showers occasionally, 130.

AUGUST.

" When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air,
And vanish from sight, the next day will be fair;
But when, in succession, they darker appear,
With watery aspect, then know rain is near."

THE planting season being nearly over, now is the time to
hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and
stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur-
nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the
latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved
if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be
afterward spread and ploughed under.

Plant Beans for picklers, 41 ; sow Cabbage seed for Col-
lards, 57 ; earth up Cardoons, 58 ; do. Celery, 62 ; sow Corn
Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63 ; the early kinds of Cucumber
may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 66 ;
transplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings,
68 ; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125 ; sow Onion
seed to stand the winter, 78 ; Peas may be planted thus late,
if desired, 83 ; sow summer Radish seed, 89 ; prepare for
planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97; sow Turnip
seed for full crops, 104 ; attend to such herbs as were not
gathered last month ; cut off and dry Sage, and other late
herbs, 106 to 108. Hops will be ripe this month ; choose a
tdry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct-
ed, page 140 ; this is a good season for preparing to make
Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits ; if the mate

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159

rials be gathered this month, indigenous spawn may be col-
lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make
the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan,
128.

Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should be
cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and
before they open in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut
them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root
offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such
vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not
only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants.
Frequent hoeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than
the watering-pot.

Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and full
bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed to
the sun to ripen ; frequently turning them, that they may
harden equally for keeping ; then clear them from the gross
part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and re-
move them to a place of shelter, 78.

Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and
prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach, Shal
lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98.

SEPTEMBER.

" Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night,
Foretoken the next day salubrious and bright ;
Especially when they at morning appear
To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air."

ALTHOUGH the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on
the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still
be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other
vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro-
gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ;
sow Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; Corn

160 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

Salad, or Fetticus, 63 ; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for
a salad, 64; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76; sow
Lettuce, 73 and 125 ; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish,
for fall use, 89 ; plant Shallots, 97 ; sow Spinach seed every
week or ten days, 98 ; Turnips will sometimes come to ma-
turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and
those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress in
growth, 104.

Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140 ;
also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108 ; this is
a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa-
tions ; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial
spawn, as may be most convenient. [For directions to pre-
serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.]

Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, is a
good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by
parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet
weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from
seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate
beds or borders, 106 to 108.

In this month must be finished all the principal sowings
and plantings necessary this year ; on this account such
ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should
be well manured previous to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.]

Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fruit
gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost
will destroy Cucumbers, 66.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 161

OCTOBER.

" A warm, open winter dotb often succeed
A hot and dry surnmi-r, by ull 'tis agreed ;
A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains,
And holds gentle spring in its cold icy chains."

THE principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces-
sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall
crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth
up Celery ; do it in dry weather, arid not even while the
dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames
must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and
of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from
seed sown last inontb. Begin to dig and secure all kinds
of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be-
fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and bury
them in pits, so as to secure them from wet arid frost, or put
them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots ;
begin with the most tender kinds, or do that which is re-
quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect
Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the
wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed
away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them
in sand in a cellar.

Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a
thorough cleaning and dressing ; by destroying all weeds,
cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants
as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug-
gested, page 108.

Tie up full-grown plants of Endive every week in dry
weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68.

Horse-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by
trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots,
leaving the old stools for future production, 69. Jerusalem
Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for winter
consumption, 71.

14*

162 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

NOVEMBER.

"When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow,
A cold and wet harvest, there's no doubt, will follow ;
But when they are plenty, and ^ood, 'tis agreed,
A rich, golden harvest is sure to succeed."

ENDEAVOUR to avoid having your garden products frozen
fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ;
in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret,
Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter
use, and pack them close together in pits ; give them a coat
of straw, and afterward heap on as much earth as will keep
out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Toward the end of
the month, Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take
up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together
against a ridge, which should be previously formed in a
straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ;
throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about
an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright
as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every
row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other.
The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or
litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost j
and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row
of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for
use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet j
a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be
taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a
square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems
being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The
beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary
shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for
some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For
the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see articles,
pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col-
lards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163

Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand
in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close
together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower
leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of
stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use.
Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, rnay be protected by a
covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the man-
agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32 ; Asparagus, 37 ;
Rhubarb 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95.

Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended
last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the
ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem
Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the
same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots,
as will be required for use the next three months. Spread
short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August
and September, which will protect them through the winter.

DECEMBER.

" A wet, sultry summer, prognostics affirm,
A boist'rous autumn will bring in its turn ;
A cold, sour autumn and summer portend
A winter severe from beginning to end. "

IP all was not done as directed last month, there is no
time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should
now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some
of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the
benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and
Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent
their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and provide manure
for another year.

Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons
early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience

164 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

for forcing tliern in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass
sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out
of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being
placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March, or early in April,
with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed
planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pro-
duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis-
turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys-
tem, as rec6mmended in page 132, or in the open ground,
provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled
warm weather. This is also an excellent plan in early
forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting
seedling plants into the fruiting beds.

If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and
cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom
beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as
may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all
moderate weather during the winter, give air to Cabbage,
Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in
frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats,
boards, litter, &c., as necessity may require.

As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar-
dener to review the results of his practice throughout the
past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the
future.

In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he
ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables as
are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this
object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective
view of his previous management, and also of the directions
given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation of
the soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c.,
as circumstances may require ; bearing in mind, that although
clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy
ground should lay flat through the winter.

165

TO THE PEOPLE

OF THE

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

FELLOW-CITIZENS :

AN application having been made to your Representatives in Congress to
vote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States,
OH ABOUT A MILLION DOLLARS OF YOUR RESOURCES, to the promotion of an
improved system of " Terra-culture" as described in Senate, Document
No. 23, of the third session of the 25th Congress, I hereby direct your
attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant's preamble ; copies of
which were forwarded to each member of the 26th Congress, in session,
November 30, 1839, by Russell Comstock.

From the Poughkeepsie Eagle, of January 25, 1840,

PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &C.

GREAT DISCOVERY.

" To the Hon. Perry Smith, Chairman of the United States Senate Com"
mittee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. " With the consent and by
the advice on the 23d inst, of the chairman of the United States Senate
Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress, I forward to each member
of the 26th Congress the accompanying; document dated the 14th inst; the
object is to show you some of the proof that a discovery of vital importance
to civilized man has been made, which in several letters from different
members of the present and last Congress is valued at HUNDREDS OF MIL-
LIONS OF DAYS' LABOUR, AND WORTH MORE THAN ALL THE DISCOVE-
RIES OF THE PRESENT AGE COMBINED THE APPLICATION OF STEAM

NOT EXCEPTED.

"For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more freely
or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or the pro-
ceeds thereof? Would they not be grateful to those members of Congress,
who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the desired informa-
tion, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind.

"For the honour of the Republic, for the honour of the age, and for the
interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that disco-
very which may cau&e two seeds to ripen where one now does, which pre-
vents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has been searched
for in vain during the history of all civilized society, die with the discoverer
for want of the action of the United States Congress."

Our patriotic discoverer "claims the following five discoveries as his,
besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25tli Con-

16G

1st " That various diseases, universally supposed to be destructive to
plants are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been
committed ; and that many other injurious effects have been produced by
the same error, which are attributed to other causes.

2d. " That the error is UNIVERSALLY COMMITTED, to a greater or less
extent, throughout the States, and that he has seen an excess of it where-
ever he has been, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to Massa-
chusetts, inclusive.

3d. " That the PEACH and NECTARINK are more easily injured by the
error than most other Fruit trees, and the cause of their being more easily
injured by it ; and that this error causes them to be barren, or short-lived.

4th. " That the application of two known laws in nature demonstrate
the reality of his discovery and its application to the whole vegetable king-
dom ) and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be per-
petuated, and his practice more easily introduced : and that by these two
laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained.

5th. " That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged experi-
menters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the science and practice
of agriculture; and that he has discovered facts and made himself acquainted
with knowledge sufficient to reduce them to practice."

We are farther informed, "that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor insects,
nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous effects that have
been attributed to them, but that those effects are produced by error in cul-
tivation, which discuses the smallest plant or largest tree."

Our modest and patriotic f>:lluu'-cilizen admits, in the course of his
preamble, "that the practical part of his discovery is so EXTREMELY SIMPLE
and economical, that it costs no more to prevent the diseases thun it does
to produce them ; and that it is so different from the established theories
and habits of the people, THAT UNLESS A LARGE AMOUNT UK APPRO-
PRIATKD, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the PUBLIC GOOD
seems to require that a large amount should be appropriated." Me more-
over asserts, that "there are two known laws in nature, by which the reality
of his discovery, and its application to the whole vegetable kingdom, are
demonstrable in leas than thirty words."

That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is not strictly speaking
anew discovery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which have
inhabited the fields of the old world for over a thousand years"; and our
discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, that there are
thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he terms "the com-
mon error " has never been committed ; and also, that several of the fifteen
gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, "confidently for ever" have
some such trees on their own domains.

Hjear him — "The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the most
flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his possession had never had what I
call the common error in cultivation committed upon it."

" The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean.) said, that he had long
supposed that what I call the common error, was an error, but that he had
no idea of such extensive evils arising from it."

"The Senator from Maryland, (Mr, Spence,) said, that in his district it
was a universal custom to commit what I call the common error in cultiva-
tion, on the fruit trees, and that it was common to have no Plums perfect

167

and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on which the error
had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and those few (four)
continued to bear abundantly annually ; that he had no recollection of ever
seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these four trees, but that he
had nevt-r supposed that to have been the cau§e of their perfection."

The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun.) to whom I am indebted
for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable suggestion in
the culture of plants, said, " while examining the defective trees around the
Capitol, that the principle when exhibited was very plain and 'simple, that
it was philosophical, and in his opinion it could not be neglected without
injury to the health and growth of trees and plants, and deserving of pub-
lic patronage." ,

"The Vice President of the United States, (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my
discovery was perfectly consistent with the laws of nature ; and (when
observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the error,
and were recovering,) farther remarked, that my theory was essentially cor-
rect and obvious to the most superficial observer."

"The member from New-York. (Mr. Jackson,) said, that he had reared
an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I call the
common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourishing and
fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently seen a field
of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels of shelled
grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been avoided, while
the success was attributed to quite a different cause."

From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure
lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated
to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those
gentleman can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con-
trary to knowledge and sound judgment ; they must, therefore necessarily
and unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which will
eventually disseminate in proportion as mankind take an interest in the
merits of the alleged discovery.

But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld
from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress,
I have submitted an exposition of my views of the particular points
adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta-
rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 91, 98 and 124 of the third part of the present
edition of the Ypung Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore
remind my readers that the directions heretofore given in this and previous
editions of the work are in strict accordance with the same doctrine ; and
that although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally
committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged
the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been
induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture from the subject
having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislators of these
United States.

And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no bearing
on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for its reception
by an exhortation to TEMPERANCE AND uronr/RATiosr, as the only safe
course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of all the varied
species of plants, which comprise "the whole vegetable kingdom." In

168

articles page 2G of the first part, and pages 16, 28 and 97 of the second
part, I have shown that the various species of plants which occupy our
greenhouses, gardens, and fields, require each their peculiar aliment — they
having been collected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils
through cash's remotest bounds ; they consequently comprise natives of
mountains and rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and water courses. The
most essential aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being
HEAT, artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates
to produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious AIR, hence
they are cultivated to the greatest perfection in our Northern States in
spring and autumn ; and in our Southern States in the winter; .seepage
147 of the first part; and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious
plants in general, require a more than ordinary share of MOISTURE, and
grow best in wet soil; but these THREE ELEMENTS collectively constitute
the food of plants in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the
various species, in due proportions, according to circumstances. See pages
49, 64 and 67 of the first part, for a more precise view of this subject. I
have also shown that the roots of various species of plants require each
their peculiar aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land;
this is demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading
beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food.

Although it has been admitted that excessive deep planting of trees and
plants is injurious, ami in many cases fatal to their very existence, it does
not follow that all annuais and biennials are injured by the same means ;
on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plants in a late
stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which constitutes
the most essential art in gardening for the market ; because the earliest
crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a necessary practice
in climates where the seasons for gardening are short — as without such
practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly be matured in. due
season for gathering before winter.

I would here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by
reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree for
instance, is discoverable soon after the error is committed, by its fruit ripen-
ing prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two prior to its
final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against planting
perennial plants and trees too deep.

In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my
works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult the
operations of nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to aid
them, I subjoin the following rules, which are farther illustrated under the
different heads :

1. In transplanting fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which
emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium sized tree may be
planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest
should not exceed two or three inches. See pages 93, 101 and 125 of the
third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant.

2. In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted, or grown in hills
or clusters, as Indian Corn, fee... keep the earth loose but level around them
ill their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or culti-

169

\ating ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion of
earth about the roots and stems at the last or final dressing.

3. In the sowing of seed, remember that IN UNITY THERE is STRENGTH,
and that from the gerrninative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive,
it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone. To
insure a fair chance plant your seed moderately thick, and thin out the
surplus plants while young. In planting seed in drills, which is the most
eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should be consi-
dered ; large seed, producing vigorous roots, require deeper planting than
diminutive seed, producing delicate roots and slender stalks.

4. In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate the
native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judicious
mixture of maiden earth, loam, sand, leaf, swamp, and rock mould, decom-
posed manures, and such other composts as aie recommended under the
different heads. Remember, that although strong manure is essential to
the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. PURSUE, THEN, A
MEDIUM COURSE. From your soil not being too stiff or too light, too rich
or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too porous, if not positively
salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation of each endura-
ble. I again repeat, that temperance in the use of aliment, is as essential
to the welfare of the vegetable family as it is to the health, happiness, and
longevity of mankind.

T. BRIDGEMAN.
New-York, March 4, 1840.

j£T Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article in
the Poughkeepsie Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our modest
and patriotic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge as superior
to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural known writers /" As I have
anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery in my books, I have
nothing more to say than to remind the reader that this uncalled for attack
on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies not merely the publication,
but the most general circulation of these my voluntary disclosures.

RETROSPECTIVE VIEW.

THIS summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid the Seeds-
man and Gardener in making out a bill of seed for the purpose of planting
any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the
Vegetable Department of the Young Gardener's Assistant, to which the
reader is referred for a more concise view of the subject.

Page.

Artichoke; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants, - - 31

Asparagus; one ounce will be sufficient for 1000 plants - - 35
Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed will be required for every

sixty feet of row, ........ 40

Beans, Kidney Dwarf ; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400

hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, 42

170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW.

Beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Lima, or large running Beans

will plant about 300 hills, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43

Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, 45

Borecole, or Kale , an ounce will produce 4000 plants, 46

Broccoli ; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - - - 50

Cauliflower ; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, . - 53

Cabbage ; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, .... 55

Cardoon Artichoke ; an ounce will produce 600 plants, .- • 53

Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, 59

Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, ... 60
Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles
of ground, --........63

Cucumber ; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, 65

Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, 67

Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, 68

Leek; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, - - 71

Lettuce; an ounce will produce, say 10,000 plants, 73

Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74

Melon, Water ; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills, 75

Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, 78

Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, 80

Parsnip ;'two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - - 81

Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, 82

Peas; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, 84

Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 85
Potatoes, Sweet; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will produce

15 bushels, 86

Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 500 to 600

hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to 80 hills, 87
Radish ; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad-
cast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills, 89
Salsify ; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, 93
Shallots; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, 9S
Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of

land. If broadcast, it wiil require double the quantity, 99
Squash; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according

to sorts and size, -- 100

Tomato ; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 101

Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land, - 105

QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE.

Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds.

Timothy, 1 peck.

Herds Grass, 1 bushel.

Orchard Grass, - - - 2 bushels.

Rye Grass, 2 bushels.

Lucerne, 8 pounds.

For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be found
excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover^seed, 1 peck of herds grass, and half a
bushel of Orchard grass seed — or 6 pounds clover, half a bushel of rye
s?, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seed.

171

COMMENDATORY NOTICES.

"The first edition of "The Young Gardener's Assistant" has been
favourably noticed in France : — " One of the leading articles of the Annales
de £ Institute Royal Horticolc de Fromont, is a long notice of " The Young
Gardener's Assistant," by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The
editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very
commendable terms." — New York Farmer.

Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany,

&c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston :

"The work is written in plain language^ easily to be understood by the
young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value,
even to the experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character.
IT is ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, and unlike compilations from English
works, the novice is not led into disappointment by following the rules
there laid down, as he generally is. when following the advice of the latter.
We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, IT is WORTH ALL OTHERS op

A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN-
TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners."

" No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain
useful information. By being arranged in the form of a catalogue, you
can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing,
depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &c., is clearly defined. The Calendarial
Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole
price of the book, and must have cost the author much research ,and labor-
ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman is not a theorist, but is in the daily practice
of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct all beginners in the
profitable and delightful employment of cultivating a garden, ' a profession
and an employment for which no man is too higher too low.' " — Genessec
Farmer.

"It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall be,
' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage-
ment of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the
Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate — an
advantage of no little moment." — American.

"Among the plants for the cultivation of which ' The Young Gardener's
Assistant' contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not
generally introduced in the United States. The introduction and success-
ful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our
country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman's garden, seve-
ral varieties of Broad Deans, Vicia faba, in a most vigorous and thrifty
growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so
early in the season for any other vegetable. They put forth a beautiful
blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the flower garden." — New
York Farmer.

172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES.

"BRIDGEJIAN'S GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. — The fourth edition of this
useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by the
addition of several matters not contained in either of the former editions.
Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener's
memory." — Evening Post.

"No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening ever published in this
country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mr.
Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from hw
own experience " — Daily Express.

"That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most
innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and
patronage •, and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's Assistant.' " —
Miming Herald.

" The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in
Agriculture, ' far from the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples of
Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman,
and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic." — Old Countryman.
" From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgenwm's book, we
should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dits or die-
turns of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed
out ; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the young gardener
to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom."
American Farmer.

''All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and
one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot-
beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables,
Pruning. Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving
the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject
ever published in tin's country has met with half as extensive a sale, or
decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman
fully understands the subject on which he treats The very rapid sale of
the ei^ht former edition* is quite a sufficient recommendation." — G. C.
Thorburn, in the Evening Star.

" We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways
almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book.
Mr. Bridgeman bestows ure;»t 1 .bour on his productions of the pen, not
only as to practical matter of fa' t, but to the various excellences of style
particularly to clearness, and tho avoiding a redundancy of words. The
amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value; and all this
information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its soil." —
American Gardener's Magazine.

" From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The
Youni Gardener's Assistant,' we should judge that it embraces a greater
amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be
found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been selected from
the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is sufficiently exten-
sive for any cultivator in this country." — Newark Daily Advertiser

COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 173

"The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his
book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or
young, in horticultural pursuits." — Gazette.

" From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads,
and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invalua-
ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of
their own gardens. — Albany Argus.

Extract of a letter from Alex'r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg:

Dear Sir: — You will see by the next month's New-York Farmer, if you
have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the
Young Gardener's Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State
Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the com-
mittee for award ing. premiums, and thought your work was deserving
encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in
bringing it before the public as worthy of being given as premiums."*

"Written with a good deal of practical knowledge *f the subject on
wliich it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of
twenty years' experience, and we dare to say. that though submitted in an
unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than thofce
in more costly and expensive works." — Courier <5f Enquirer.

•'We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all
ott-ers of a similar character that have ever been published in this country,
from its adaptation to all the climates in the United States." — N. Y. Sun.

" That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions
through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life
more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers.
Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification,
we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication." — JV.
Y. Tribune.

" Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a
complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul-
ture."— Working Man's Advocate.

"No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with
half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, as this valuable compen-
dium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands, from practical experience, the
subject on which he treats. The Caleiidarial Index arranges the work for
every month, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed.
This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author
immense labour. The rapid sale of the former editions, together with the
commendation of every Agricultural and Horticultural Journal in America,
and several in England, is quite sufficient recommendation. The present
edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a
great discovery (as great as steam) on 'the preservation of Fruit Trees,
Plants, &c., and which, to make known to the people of these United
States, an application was made to the 25th Congress to vote the supposed

* The American Institute has also awarded several copies cf this work as premiums for
superior specimens of garden products

174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES.

author of the discovery a sum equal to five cents from each individual in thn
United States — or about a million of dollars. Mr. Bridgeman has clearly
proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and
treatment of Trees and Plants, and which only occupies some four or fivo
pages of the work." — N. Y. Commercial, by G. C. Tlwrburn.

•' THE FLORIST'S GUIDE. — A delightful little book, which we advise every
body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for the
pleasing occupation on which it treats." — Courier $• Enquirer.

"The Florist's Guide," like its companion, " The Young Gardener's As-
sistant," is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult
to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe-
cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, makes
it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the
management of their own gardens." — Newark Daily Advertiser.

" This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any
country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual,
Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herbaceous
and Shrubby, Bulbous, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double
Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. kc.

"A work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it required
an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable
directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c.,
which, when procured, were so full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest
people, after wading through some three or four hundred pa^es, were as
wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com-
menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties.
The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be
truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for whom the work was
projected) an essential service ; the directions for the care of the Camellia
Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual
Flower Seed, fee., are alone worth double the price of the book ; so is the
Calendarial Index, which, by the ifntiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is
made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than
is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject." — G. C-
Thorburn, from the N. Y. Commercial.

" The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious,
and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen-
cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. We very
cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book."
Gardener's Magazine.

The Florist's Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors
of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated
to promote a love for the cultivation and correct management of flowers —
the study of which, remarks one of these writers, " refines the taste, and
imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions ofnaturo."

175

LINES

SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR
OF ' THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT/ AT THE FOURTEENTH
ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FOR ITS
GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY.

BY D. MITCHELL.

As VALOR'S meed, and Honor's brightest test,

I'te seen a MKDAL on a Warrior's breast ;

But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view —

The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo —

Th orphan's tear — the widow's drooping head,

For slaughter'd heroes on false glory's bed —

The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil'd,

By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil'd !

Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace,

Thou lov'st to see fair Nature's wide increase,

And the " Young Gard'ner," in thy fertile book,

Finds an " Assistant" not to be mistook !

Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate,

Fill Plenty's horn, and better man's estate ;.

Thine is the wish the Cotter's life to mend,

And teach him that a garden is his friend :

That Virtue smiles — sheds blessings on his head,

And makes him happy in his humble shed,

Who tends his " little patch " in well spent hours,

Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers;

That Vice ne'er mars a lovely scene like this —

The consummation of the poor man's bliss !

Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee.

Health to the scions from the parent tree ;

Well may thy trophy be a source of pride.

May they preserve it, whatsoe'r betide :

'Tis a memento for imparting good,

More nobly won than that for shedding blood !

APPENDIX,

•
CONTAINING REMARKS ON THE ALLEGED DISEASE OF THE POTATO.

As I have not in the article Potato, page 86, attempted to give its
mstory, I would here inform the reader, that the Potato was cultivated
in Britain, by Gerard, the English Botanist, in 1590, and was soon after-
wards recommended by Sir Walter Raleigh as a nutritious vegetable ;
but although first discovered on this continent, it spread so slowly, that
nearly a century elapsed before this excellent root had become a regular
dish on the Farmer's table in New England. The following account
of the early reception is too good to be lost. It is recorded in the N. Y.
Farmer and Mechanic that two brothers, named Clarke, settled in Con-
necticut, early in the 18th century, and purchased a farm near Chatham.
"On a hill which still bears the name of Clarke Hill, half a peck of
potatoes were planted, and after the balls had ripened on the vines, it
was proposed to gather some with a view to taste the wonderful pro-
duct; some balls were accordingly picked and boiled, and being placed
on the table, were approached with great caution. It was at length
concluded that an old negro should first taste of this rare vegetable,
whose report was by no means satisfactory; others also tasted, and the
dish was condemned as unworthy their table and attention ; the negro
was therefore directed to go and destroy the vines ; in doing so, he
pulled up some potatoes with the tops; and, amazed at the sight, soon
elicited the discovery that the real fruit was to be looked for at the root
end of the plant."

As this vegetable is now considered one of the most important pro-
ductions of the earth, upwards of one hundred millions of bushels
being raised in the United States in a single year, a deficient or defec-
tive crop is acknowledged by all to be such a serious calamity as to
incite the most diligent enquiry into the nature and cause of the defect,
or deficiency.

As the seasons of 1843 and '4 were unfavorable to the growth and
preservation of late potatoes, the American Institute encouraged an
investigation and discussion of the subject amongst the members of the

178 APPENDIX.

Farmers' Club ; the result of which was published in the " New- York
Farmer and Mechanic," vol. ii., November, 1844, from which I have
selected the following extracts :

" That the disease may proceed from some chemical action in the
atmosphere, or from peculiar location, as high or low, new or old
land, and that some varieties are more liable to disease than others,"
page 290.

" That the potato disease was imported from Great Britain two or
three years ago ; and that a gentleman, from microscopic examination,
discovered in the tubers a growth of fungus, a plant analagous to the
mushroom family. These fungi seeds although invisible to the naked
eye are readily carried about by the winds, and will penetrate wherever
air will. Bsing once introduced from Europe, their extensive dissemi-
nation here is very easy. These seeds falling on the potato in favour-
able circumstances as to moisture, &c. cause* the disease," 291.* The
application of common salt to the soil, previous to planting, is suggested
as a remedy. Lime and charcoal dust sown on the ground after plant-
ing is also recommended.

Another correspondent asserts, "that the disease is an old one, having
been long known in Germany, as well as in England, and that there
are in fact two distinct distempers, one of which is called dry rot, and
the other wet rot; the dry rot often appears in a whitish surface ; if
the wet rot sets in, it is black, and soft worms are to be found in the
putrifying parts. The direct origin of the disease is a fungus, the
remote origin is something else. One of the most fertile causes of thi*
disease is the habit of using farm yard manure in a state of fermentation. f
Plants, in a healthy growing state, are rarely attacked by the fungus;
probably, therefore, some change takes place in potatoes before the
fungus begins," page 307.

* If it be true that an infectious disease existi amongst the potatoes of that country, winch
contains a less quantity of land than one of our largest States, it may be asked, how a pro-
portion could be shipped here in an eatable and pkv table condition, after reserving a sufficiency
for a population of upwards of twenty millions of inhabitants, who raise them for their cattle
as well as for table use.

t It is upwards of thirty years since I commenced cultivating potatoes, which, according to
the seasons, has been attended with variable success. In 1820 my potatoes were so bad as
to be scarcely eatable, I however planted some of them for seed the year following, on land
situated near the Bowery, where Third street now is, which was manured with livery stable
dung ; and the pr.-iduct was the best I ever eat. Last season several of-my acquaintance raised
their early and late crops from the same lot of seed, with different results. Those planted in
April produced an abundance of excellent potatoes, while the product of those planted in June
and July were represented as diseased and scarcely worth digging. The difference in all those
cases must have been occasioned by the weather and not by the seed. A change of soil how-
ever, will sometimes cause a difference in the quality of potatoes.

APPENDIX 179

" That the disease in the potato arises from a small fly which lays
its eggs in the vines shortly after they come up, which turn into maggots
and pass through the tube of the vine into the potato. A table spoon-
ful of poudrette to each plant is in this case recommended as a pre-
ventive," page 324.

Others contend that as every plant cultivated in the same soil for a
long period is liable to become deteriorated, a new generation of plants
from seed of a healthy crop is essential to preserve their pristine excel-
lence. A gentleman present, however, informed the Club, that his
seedlings were found in a decayed state the same as others," page 290.

As it is not my intention to discourage a farther investigation of this
subject, I shall not pass censure upon the ideas above advanced, but
offer a few remarks founded on observation and the study of nature,
which, I trust, will prove acceptable to the public.

I have, in several pages of " the Young Gardener's Assistant," re-
minded my readers that the various species of plants which are cultivated
in our gardens and fields, require each their peculiar aliment, they
having been collected from all the diversified climates and soils in our
globe; and I would here add, that it is a matter of astonishment, that
so large a proportion of the fruits of the earth should be produced in
perfection in any one climate, especially in unfavourable weather, to
which every part of the earth is at times liable.

In page 26 of the first part, I have furnished a classification of the
most important vegetables cultivated in our gardens, in which I have
shown that the most essential aliment to natives of warm climates is
heat, and of temperate climates moisture, and that the three elements
HEAT, AIR, and MOISTURE, constitute the food of plants in general. I
have also recommended my readers to make choice of the seasons best
adapted to the various articles they may wish to cultivate, as it is an
indubitable fact that the element essential to the production of some
vegetables is destructive to others, which in reality cannot be raised at
all under unpropitious circumstances. In proof of the above assertion,
I would remind the reader that various kinds of fruit are deficient in
unfavourable seasons. Cherries for instance, in the event of a single
week's rain, in a certain stage of growth, will rot on the trees; and it
must be admitted that other fruits deteriorate, or lose their most essential
flavour in the absence of suitable aliment. Why, then, I would ask,
should we expect potato crops to be uniformly good every year.

It would be difficult to name any production of the earth, that yields
full and perfect crops annually ; on the contrary, it is well known that

ISO APPENDIX.

famine has been of frequent occurrence in many populous countries,
through short or defective supplies of the necessaries of life.

It is conceded by the generality of those who have investigated the
subject of disease in potatoes, that the tubers soon become defective
after the tops cease to grow ; and common observation teacheth that
when plants of a succulent nature are deprived of their functions or
means of growing luxuriantly, they continue to deteriorate until their
juices become so corrupt, that they not only die, but contaminate the
earth in which they were planted, to the destruction of their neighbour-
ing inmates of the garden or field; and even potato tubers, after being
taken from the earth, will injure those which come in contact with them
by the emission of their corrupt juices

Mr. Teschemacher, in a communication published in "the New
England Fanner," observes, «« That the potato decays previous to the
appearance of worms, and that worms are never found in the sound
part of the potato either eating their way in, or depositing their eggs,
nor have 1 seen the worms in that part of the potato in which the
fungus have already commenced vegetating; it is only in the rotten
part that the worms exist after the fungus has caused the decay. These
worms are uniform, and appear to be of the same species from whatever
cause the decay may arise."

It is precisely the case with other kinds of vegetables, and also with
fruit; and it is evident that all those worms, insects, and reptiles which
prey upon the vegetable family, are more partial to that particular kind
of vegetable matter which first generated them, than to any other; hence
the Peach insects feed on its fruit in embryo, as well as in a state of,
and even beyond maturity ; the Cabbage worms also prey on plants of
the same genera or species ; and when those enemies of the vegetable
family cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable to them,
or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon diseased trees, plants,
or other matter, which contain similar juices, or nutriment, in prefer-
ence to any other description of food.

It is generally allowed that the early planted potatoes have for the
last two years, yielded as well as usual, and that they have been of
very superior quality. It is only the late crops which are complained
of. Now, it must be admitted that if the seed potatoes planted in June
or July, whether raised here, or imported, had been diseased, they would
have shown it at the time of their being cut and prepared for planting,
as it is notorious that the discovery of defect is generally made at the
time of gathering the crop, or soon after they are heaped together.

APPENDIX. 181

Ik

it must, however, be conceded, that seed potatoes kept until July i'or
the purpose of late planting, may have become deteriorated, because those
roots being biennial cannot be expected to retain their health and vigour
to so Idte a period; which, in some measure, accounts i'or early varieties
being more seriously affected by the extreme heat than the late keeping
red-skinned varieties, which will retain their vegetative properties even
in dry seasons, so as to produce a good crop if not retarded by being
over heated, to which they are liable, especially if placed in contact
with acrid manure, which is destructive to all descriptions of plants in
hot dry weather. New land without manure generally produces the
best crops in dry seasons

It may be observed farther, that when the leaves or vines of the
potato wither prematurely through extreme heat, the tubers become af-
fected to such a degree, that rain late in the season hastens their de-
struction instead of nurturing them, they consequently return to their
native element.

From the above considerations, as well as from the knowledge I have
acquired of the nature of plants in general, I have come to the conclu-
sion that the alleged disease in potatoes was not occasioned by defective
seed, but by the extreme heat of the Summer, followed by the excessive
rain in Autumn.* In some instances the defect may have been acceler-
ated by an injudicious use of acrid manure, and in others from their
being planted in low undrained ground. It often happens that potatoes
deteriorate from not being properly dried when taken from the ground,
which on being heaped together, become heated, and consequently rot.

All which is respectfully submitted.

THOMAS BRIDGEMAN.
NEW- YORK, February 1st, 1845

* As this review was elicited by the discussions relative to the defect in potatoes the last
two years, the conclusion has special reference thereto. It must, however, be acknowledged,
that the extremes of HEAT, COLD, and MOISTURE, are alike detrimental to vegetation in all
•easons ; and that hot dry summers are often attended with results as fatal to vegetable
productions as the coldness of winter.

AMERICAN STANDARD HORTICULTURAL BOOKS.

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the climate of the United States. The 12th edition,
improved, 520 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN,
Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist : New- York.

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The Florist's Guide, contains all the necessary
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cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Gieenhouse, or
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The Fruit Cultivator's Manual, is designed to

qualify the novice in Fruit Culture for the superintend-
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Each of the above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty
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Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal
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