~ ~ ~~ — —~ ee : «rade Ba les) ale aon ae) eee ~s>> >= wo —. Baas Dees Desa Daa Vaid Dare Nae Da ® je - ; e 7 ‘ap tes * i i ea et a : /ITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR, . 3 CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF : is J} 2 : GARDEN AND HERB SEED, -. PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD & 3 ® FOR THE CULTIVATION OF fornia Ne. puns % () . ® “J : hy Bes. $ . 6 ) y ¢ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 3 4 he ai 1G59SG9SS GSO SE% G48 (}] ae $ : ae, ah hy : 1a . . Br Si ea” ie * ae | Ny i i fai , ohh ; ES ir a eee ie et a Me 2 Y ~ ( / Fa 4 ° CUS FEA AFLG Ltt ae sll cn A272 tw THE KITCHEN GARDENER’S INSTRUCTOR, CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF GARDEN AND HERB SEED, WiTH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD FOR THE CULTIVATION OF CULINARY VEGETABLES AND HERBS. WITH A CALENDAR, SHOWING THE WORK “NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN A KITCHEN GARDEN EVERY MONTH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON, ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR FORCING OR FORWARDING VEGETABLES OUT OF THE ORDINARY SEASON. THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNIPED STATES. A NEW AND IMPROVED EDITION. By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist. NEW-YORK: FOR SALE BY THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORNER OF EIGHTEENTH-ST. George C. Thorburn, 15 John-street ; Alex’r Smith, 388 Broadway, N. ¥Y.: William Thorburn, Broadway, Albany. C. F. Crosman, Rochester Hovey & Co; Joseph Breck & Co., Boston. D. Landreth & Munns; H. A Dreer, Philadelphia. Gibson & Ritchie. Newark, N. Jersey. I. Sinclair, Jr. & Co, Baltimore. J F. Callan. Washington City. Henry Cook, Alexan- dria, D.C. Fredetick Wittpenn, Charieston, S. C.. Turner & Hughes, Raleigh, N.C. Mosely & Co, Mobile. Wm Dinn. New Orleans. N.W. Hatch & Co, Vicksburg. James M. Thorburn, St. Louis. S. C. Parkhurst. Cincinnati: and other Seedsmen. Also, by Sax- ton & Miles, 209 Broadway ; E, Walker, 114 Fulton-st, N. Y.; and Booksellers in general. {Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Forty-four, by Tuomas Bripceman, in the Clerk’s Office of the Dis- trict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York.] POP IRN NN RN I aaa ease eaeeeeeeeeesss STEREOTYPED BY VINCENT L. DILL, m No. 128 Fuiten Street, New York. re ie er re . a, aS he Se 7 he S Shs | SEA at, DAR SSS 5 ee : Ye ree, Sete BO QE NILES NSS ee Pe m * Ste eu r a : AQ PREFACE. “THe Youne GarpENer’s Assistant” having been ex- tended to five times its original size, by the introduction of various additional subjects connected with Horticulture, 1 have been induced to pnblish that part which relates to the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Pot Herbs, &c., in a. separate form, under the title of “ The Kitchen Gardener’s Instructor.” This has been done with a view to enable our respectable seedsmen to afford instruction, at a trifling ex- pense, to those of their customers whose attention may be directed wholly to that branch of Horticulture, and thereby prevent themselves being blamed by those who may not have given their seed a fair trial, from not knowing how to dispose of it in the ground. Having had twenty-four years’ experience as a gardener and seedsman, in the vicinity of New-York, I am aware of the importance of correct information on the subject of gar- dening; and, from a conviction that the reputation of many honest seedsmen is often unjustly attacked in consequence of the failure of seed, when the fault lies not with them, but with the gardener, I have endeavoured, in my humble way, to render myself useful both to the seedsman and gardener, by giving brief directions for the management of a Kitchen Garden, in such a way as is calculated to insure success. But, as much depends on minute attention to points appa- rently trifling, I would remind my readers that the products of the garden are natives of various soils and climates, and that while some vegetables can only be raised in cool and temperate weather, others require the heat of the summer to bring them to perfection. This consideration should induce gardeners to watch the seasons as they pass, and-also vi PREFACE. to plant their seed at suitable depths and distances, accord- ing to their nature and dimensions, as an opportunity of raising some of the luxuries of the garden being lost for the season, may occasion more anxiety and trouble, than it would cost to acquire a correct knowledge of the art of Gar- dening. It is, however, of the utmost importance to a gardener that he obtain such seed as will grow freely, and produce vegetables calculated to suit the market. As I value my reputation above all things upon earth, charity forbids me to believe that any man of standing would wilfully sell bad seed. It is true, that the most careful may at times be deceived, especially in seasons when a full supply of fresh seed can- not be obtained from their regular growers; but, in general, our established seedsman may be supposed to know the true cha- racter of his stock; and if he studies his interest, he will not knowingly sell an article that is not calculated to do him credit. It must, however, be admitted, that knowledge is as necessary to a seedsman as to a gardener, and therefore the above remarks cannot apply to every storekeeper who may sell seed, because many, being mere agents, do not pretend to know one kind of seed from another; and from its not being a primary object with them, it cannot be expected that they will take the same interest in the traflic as a regu- Jar seedsman, and therefore such agents may not consider their reputation at stake. The experience of old and skilful gardeners will bear witness to the fact, that failures often occur even with good seed, and with the very best attention on the part of the gardener. It often happens that insects so infest the land, as to devour the seed while sprouting, and before a plant is seen above ground. Sometimes a serious drought succeed- ing a heavy rain will cause seed to perish through incrusta- tion of the soil; and very frequently seed will fail to vegetate in dry soils and seasons, for want of pressure. I was once called upon by a neighbour to examine his garden, in which PREFACE. vii he had sown several sorts of seed a month previous, which he had condemned as barren and unfruitful. On looking over his land, I perceived a horse track: the animal had broken his halter, and traversed the garden in different directions. On tracing the horse’s footsteps, I perceived ptants coming up thick in the tracks, which convinced me that if the seed had been planted deeper, or the ground rolled at the time of depositing the seed therein, the gardener would have had no cause to complain either of the seedsman or his seed. The above instance of loss, occasioned by want of attention to points apparently of trifling importance, not being a soli- tary one, I would urge the gardener to precision and dili- gence in his undertaking; and, as my object has been to impart useful knowledge in the following pages, they who are in pursuit of information on the subject of gardening, are invited to a perusal before they deposit their seed in the ground. . As in all the former editions of this work, it was my earnest. care to confine my attention to the most important practical subjects, I may be allowed here to remind the reader, that every article in the book contains ample direc- tions for the cultivation of whatever it has reference to; but, as the inexperienced are apt to imbibe very erroneous ideas on some points of culture, I have, in this edition, introduced yarious notes, many of which are designed to point out the evil which it is intended to remedy ;—for instance, a novice in gardening undertakes to cultivate a piece of ground, and having been informed that manure is a very important arti- cle in the cultivation of his vegetables, procures, perhaps, ten times as much as is necessary; this he applies to his beds in such extravagant quantities as to prevent the seed from germinating, and in some cases it renders the ground sterile, until time and exposure to the atmosphere reclaim it. (See note page 15.) Another very prevalent error is evinced by persons de- Vili PREFACE. laying to sow their seed until a period when they ought to be preparing to gather a crop; hence it frequently happens that such, on the appearance of any rare vegetable in mar- ket, ave induced to visit the store for some seed, which, al- though they sow it out of the ordinary season, they expect to gather perfect specimens of vegetables. (See notes pages 52 and 72.) Others, again, are so inattentive to their seed beds, after depositing seed therein, that they neglect all precautions of preserving their crops from the attacks of in- sects, which often make clean work before they are disco- vered, (See notes in pages 19, 55 and 104.) As such cus- tomers are generally loudest in their exclamations agaiust seedsmen, I have been induced to discuss the most impor- tant points connected with the subjects, with a view to strike at the root of the most fatal errors attending the cultivation of a garden, and [ flatter myself that my labours will be duly appreciated. As it is not intended in this Preface to give directions, but merely to show the object of the work, I would here inform the reader, that the general remarks for the manage- ment of the Kitchen Garden, pages 13 to 30, explain the method of destroying insects; of drilling, rolling, planting, and managing the various soils; together with some useful tables calculated to make the attentive reader thoroughly acquainted with the art of gardening. T. BRIDGEMAN, New-York, January, 1844. CONTENTS. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 2 Page. On laying out the ground, - - - =. yaituseokd A blank-book recommended, — = - = 7 = ~ ee Method of using manure, (note) - - - . - b Observations on improving various soils—and on sowing seed early, - - : : - - - - 16 The drilling system recommended, — - - mel Remedies for the destruction of insects, (note, 19) - 18 On the most proper rotation of crops, - - 21 A table showing the number of plants that may be raised on an acre of land, at given distances, which table may also be applied to other objects, - 23 On the durability of the germinative properties of seed, 25 A table or classification of such species and varieties of seed as are usually cultivated in the KitchenGarden, 26 Explication of the above table, - - - - - 27 Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates, 30 A CATALOGUE OF CULINARY VEGETABLES ; WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD, [The Notes are chiefly calculated to guard against error in cultivation.} Artichoke, - - - 31 || Cauliflower, (note, 52) - 51 Asparagus, (note, 36) - 34 || Cabbage, (note,55) = 54 Beans, (English Dwarfs) 39 || Colewort ar Collards, - 57 Beans, (Kidney Davarit) Cardoons, - : - 658 (note) - 41 || Carrot, - - - 58 Beans, (Pole eneeiae) 42 || Celery, (note, 61) - - 60 Beets, (note) - - 44/|| Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 63 Borecole or Kale, - 46]|| Cress, - : - + 64 Brussels Sprouts, - 47 || Cucumber, (note) - - 65 Broccoli, (note, 49) - 48 {| Chives, or Cives, « - 66 X. CONTENTS. Egg-plant, (nole, 67) - 66 || Peas, - - - - Endive, - - - 68 || Potato, - - - Horse-radish, = - 69 || Potato, (Sweet,) - 2 Indian Corn, - - 70|| Pumpkin, - - - Jerusalem Artichoke, - 70 | Radish, (note) - - Leek, - - - - 71 || Rocambole, - - Lettuce, (note) - - 72 || Rhubarb, — - - - Melon, | - - - 74 || Salsify, - Pee: Melon, (Water) - - 75 || Scorzonera, - - Mustard, - - - %6||Sea-Kale, - - - Nasturtium, - - 76 || Skirret, - - - Okra, - - - - 177 /|| Shallot, - . - Onion, (note, 78) - - 77 || Spinach, or Spinage, ~ Parsley, (note, 80) - 79 || Squash, - - Parsnip, (note) 5 - §81|| Tomato, —- - Pepper, - 82 || Turnip, (note, 104) - A Catalogue of' chances Pot, and Sweet LOH - Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Plants defined, - Plants cultivated for Medicinal purposes, - - - Directions for the cultivation and preservation of Herbs in general, - - - - - - - Illustrations of drills, to be used for various kinds of seed, Representation of a Hot-bed with four sashes, - - Observations on Forcing Vegetables, - - - - Forcing Asparagus in Hot- beda, - - - - Tor warding Broad Beans, or English Dwarfs, - - Forcing Kidney Beans, - - - - - - For warding Broccoli and Cauliflower, - - - Forcing Cucumbers at an early season, - = - Forwarding Cucumbers in April and May, - = z Forwarding Lettuce for use in the winter, - - - Forcing Mushrooms at all seasons, —- - - - Forwarding Melons on ridges under hand-glasses, - Forcing Peas in Hot-beds, - - - - - Forcing Potatoes in Hot-beds, - - - - Forwarding Radishes and other vegetables, - - Forwarding Rhubarb for use through the winter, - Forwarding Salad, Herbs, Small Piants, &c., - - Forwarding Tomatoes, - - - - - - Forcing various kinds of vegetables, - - - - Method of cultivating the Hop, - - - - - Observations on the weather, as influenced by changes of the inoon, - - > - : . : CONTENTS, XI. A table for prognosticating the weather through all the Pee lunations of the year, - - - - - - Introduction to the Monthly Calendar, with directions how to apply it to different climates, - - ~ January.—Suggestions for the improvement of time in reference to gardening—By collecting information on the subject—By procuring fencing materials— Manure and ingredients for the destruction of insects, —Drilling machines and garden implements in general, preparatory for the work to be performed as the season progresses, = - - - - - Fesruary.—Directions for providing hot-bed frames, - forcing pits, and materials to be used for forcing and forwarding vegetables, towards the end of the month —Also, for sowing seed, —- - - - - Marcu.—Recommendations on various subjects—As at- tending to the hot-beds—regulating their tempera- ture—sowing such kinds of seed as are adapted to the season—A\|so, in manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it next month, - - - - - - - Aprit.—The importance of this month to an industrious. gardener exemplified—who is recommended to sow all the various kinds of seed enumerated in the Calendar—to attend to the spring dressing of his beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea-Kale, &c.—and to the Transplanting of various kinds of lants in due season, - - - - - - May.—Directions for destroying insects—and weeds— to prevent their seeding in the ground—Also, for sowing the various kinds of seed intended for summer crops; including the Bene-plant, with a view to have it for use in July.—This is also a good season to spawn Mushroom beds, and to form new ones, &c., = . “ - - - - June.—The principal sowing season being nearly over, the gardener is reminded of the necessity of ascer- taining the success of former plantings, with a view to make up deficiencies before the month is too far advanced—Also, to hoe or plough between early vegetables in general, in order to mature them— and to destroy weeds—Directions for the manage- ment of Artichokes, Cauliflower, Herbs, Hop 146 147 148 149 151 152 154 Vines, &c., - : - - - - - 155 XIE. CONTENTS. Futy.—Directions for transplanting of Cabbage, Car- doons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper Plants, &c., —Also, for the gathering and preserving of Aro- matic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, as they come into blossom—and for the cultivation of various sorts of vegetables described in the Calendar, — - - Aveust——The planting season being nearly over, the gardener is recommended to manure, dig, and plough vacant ground for autumn crops—to attend to Artichokes, Hops, Mushrooms, Onions, Shallots, Turnips, &c., as directed, - - - - - Sepremper——The business of this month consists in finishing the sowing of seed of the season—in ma- turing various kinds of vegetables, by hoeing and earthing—and in the gathering of Berks Elops, &c., as they arrive at maturity, - OoroneR. —Directions for preserving various plane and vegetables—by planting Parsley, Lettuce, Cab- bage, Cauliflower, &c., in frames—by providing pits to contain Beets, Potatoes, &e..—and by laying away Winter Squashes, Pumpkins, and other vege- Page 157 158 - 159 tables designated, for use through the winter, - 161 Novemser.—The best methods described, of stowing away for the winter; Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- bage, Cardoons, Carrais Celery, Horse-radish, Leeks, Turnips, and such other vegetables as need protection—A|so, directions for the winter dressing of the beds of mea aE Me ice foe Rhubarb, and Sea-Kale, - - 162 Decemper.—Hints on various eubjeots eounaited with the preservation of plants, vegetables, and imple- ments—and for collecting suitable manures, com- post, &c., for use next spring—Also, suggestions for ploughing or trenching particular kinds of soil, in order that it may be benefited by winter frost, 163 GENERAL REMARKS On THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. BerorE commencing the Catalogue, it may be necessary to direct the reader’s attention to some important matters, essential to the good management of a Kitchen Garden. The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste, and may be left to the gardener himself, the form being a thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege- tables; and it matters not whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, and the garden kept neat and free from weeds. Those who have not a garden already formed, should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep; but as we have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader to that which is within his reach, and ought to be the object of every man, namely, to make the most of what he has. To this end, he may form a border round the whole gar- den, from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the piece of land; next to this border, a walk may be made from three to six feet wide; the centre part of the garden may be divided into squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds of herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, &c. The centre beds may be planted with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside porders, facing the east, south, and west, will be useful for raising the earliest fruits and vegetables; and the north bor- der, being shady and cool, will serve for raising and pricking 2 14 GENERAL REMARKS. out such young plants, herbs, and cuttings, as require to be screened from the intense heat of the sun. It may be necessary to state farther, that though shady situations are useful for the purpose of raising Celery, Cab- bage, and other small plants, slips, &c., in the summer season, all standard trees should be excluded from a Kitchen Garden for the following reasons: First, their roots spread so widely, and imbibe so much moisture from the ground, that little is left for the nourishment of any plant within the range of their influence; secondly, when in full leaf, they shade a large space, and obstruct the free circulation of the air, so essential to the well-being of all plants; and, thirdly, the droppings from trees are particularly 1 injurious to whatever vegetation they fall upon. Previous to entering on the work of a garden, the gar- dener should lay down rules for his future government. In order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book, in which he should first lay out a plan of his garden, allot- ting a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his grounds, if he should keep an account of every thing he d es relative to his garden, he would soon obtain some knowledge of the art. This the writer has done for more than twenty years, and he flatters himself that a publication of the results of his practice will be interesting and useful to his readers. If gardeners would accustom themselves to record the dates and particulars of their transactions relative to tillage, planting, &c., they would always know when to expect their seed to come up, and how to regulate their crops for sue- cession; and, when it is considered that plants of the Bras- sica, or Cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the roots, if too frequently planted in the same ground, and that a rota- tion of crops in general is beneficial, it will appear evident that a complete register of every thing relative to culture is essential to the well-being of a garden. : One important point to be attended to, is to have a supply GENERAL REMARKS, 15 of good old manure, and other composts, ready to incorpo- rate with the earth; and also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco dust, and lime, for the purpose of sowing over seed beds in dry weather, to destroy insects, which sometimes cut off young plants as fast as they come up. If the ground cannot be all manured every year, as it should be, it is of primary importance that those vegetables be provided for which most need manure. A perusal of the Catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the kinds of garden products which require it most. Lest I should not have been explicit enough in this particular, I would inform him that good rich manure is indispensably ne- cessary for the production of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general. In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be pro- vided for by disposing of the manure immediately under the seed or plants.* The next important matter is to have the ground in suita- ble condition to receive the seed. I wish it to be understood * As some cultivators, by their method of using manure, show that they have very erroneous ideas as to its real object or utility, I would remind such. that manure should be applied with a view to renovate and strengthen the natural soil, and not as a receptacle for seed. In order that manure may have a salutary effect, it should be thoroughly incorporated with the earth, by the operation of digging or ploughing. When it is used in hills or on a given spot, it should be well pulverized and mixed with the earth so as to form a compost. These remarks apply especially to strong ani- mal manures, the excrements of fowls, as also to soazper’s, tanner’s, and glue manufacturer’s manure, rags, &c. Lime, ashes, bone dust, poudrette, urate, salt, sulphur, gypsum, nitrate of potash, and other portable manures, may be sown over ihe land previous to harrowing or raking it, or such manures may be formed into a compost when used in hills or drills. They should in every case be used with caution, as an indiscreet use of them will destroy the seed or plants, and thus defeat the cultivator’s object. Many gardeners can corroborate these facts, from having used strong com- post as a mould for their hot-beds, thereby poisoning the germs of the seed, and causing the plants to die off prematurely; and it is notorious that a great proportion of failing crops is occasioned by an injudicious mode of using manure, 16 GENERAL REMARKS. that I am an adyocate for early sowing and planting, even at the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to receive it. A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make it more compact; on the contrary, if a clayey soil be worked when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails to bind when drought follows; and this not only prevents the seed from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subse- quent growth, by its becoming impervious to moderate rains, dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation. Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recommend certain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds of seed; I think it necessary to guard my readers against being misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seed be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown im very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up, To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week or ten days for sowing the seed, intending the medium as the proper time for the vicinity of New-York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader who observes the difference in the degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country, will know how to apply these instructions accordingly. Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, consists in giving the former such dressings of clay, cow dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and make them more compact, and consequently, more retentive of moisture; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes, sand, and such other composts as may tend to sepa- rate the particles and open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to approach as nearly as possible to a loam. GENERAL REMARKS, ¥7 The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less retentive will it be of moisture; the more toa clayey, the longer will it retain it; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water, and, consequently, the longer in drying, and the harder when dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long- est, without becoming hard when dry, is, of all others, the best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last described soil is called loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay and sand. I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at certain depths for the different kinds of seed; and when I have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is intended that the seed should be covered only one inch, which it will be when planted in these drills, and covered ; and so in proportion for any other depth required. This may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum- stances alter cases; if, for instance, some particular crops should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be far advanced, to risk a farther planting of seed, even if the weather be hot and the ground dry. [If this be planted a little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffhi- ciently moist to bring it up; whereas it sometimes happens that seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may be performed in various ways; in some cases a plough is used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge of a board or line; it is of little consequence which way the work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be provided with two or three drilling machines; these, every handy man can make for himself; they should be in the form of a garden rake, with a stout, heavy back, and five teeth, about two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the 18 GENERAL REMARKS. ground, and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen, they will be useful in making drills for the various kinds of seed; and drills thus made serve instead of strain- ing a line when transplanting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, &c.; the line being stretched at one edge of the bed, and the drilling machine drawn straight by the line, makes five drills at once. If they are straight, they may be kept so, by keeping one drill open for the outside tooth to work in, until the ground be all drilled. Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed; some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow; some draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed, and after sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed; in some particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling or treading in seed is necessary in dry seasons, but it should never be done when the ground is wet. There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips, Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredatiens of the fly, so well as rolling ; for when the surface is rendered com- pletely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps of earth. This method will be found more effectual than soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition whatever; but as the roller must only be used previous to or at the time of sowing the seed, and not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cowdung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown into a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately over beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost every case, insure a successful crop. Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects; it is GENERAL REMARKS. 19 also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan- tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four gallons of water. This liquid, applied to plants through the rose of a watering-pot, will preserve health and vigour. Soapsuds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the same manner—say once a week. These remedies, applied alternately, have been known to preserve Melon and Cucum- ber vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, &c., and to keep the plants in a thriving condition. As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a large piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are numerous, to sow tobacco dust, mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, lime, or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a bushel per acre, every morning, until the plants are free or secure from their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes sprout in forty- eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week after it is sown; but it sometimes happens that the whole is destroyed before a plant is seen above ground; the seeds- man, in this case, is often blamed, but without cause.* A correspondent has communicated the result of an exper- iment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or fleas on Turnips. He says, “‘ Steep your seed in a pint of warm water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of salt- petre; then dry the seed, and add currier’s oil sufficient to wet the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, so as to separate and render it fit for sowing.” Fish oil is * As the truth of the old adage, That one ounce of prevention is of more value than a pound of cure, is very generally admitted, I would recom- mend the following method of preparing a bed for the purpose of raising Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and such other plants as are subject to the attacks of insects: After digging or ploughing the ground in the usual way, collect any combustibles that are attainable, as dried weeds, sedge, turf, brushwood, leaves, stubble, corn-stalks, sawdust, or even litter from the dung-heap, which should be placed in heaps on the seed-beds and burned to ashes; then rake the ground over and sow the seed, which will not be attacked by insects while the effects of the fire remain. In the event of extremely dry weather, water the beds every evening until the plants are in full leaf. This is an infallible remedy. 20 GENERAL REMARKS. known to be destructive to ants and various other small insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants. In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, &c., are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and caterpillars; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible, but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; this may be done by searching for them on their first appearance, and destroying them. Early in the morning, grubs may be collected from the earth, within two or three inches of such plants as they may have attacked the night previous. The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed on them; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the fire, a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once; whereas, if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so rapidly, that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, may become infested ; and, when once these arrive at the butterfly or moth stage of existence, they become capable of perpetu- ating their destructive race to an almost unlimited extent. The same remarks apply to all other insects in a torpid state. Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away by sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the proportion of two to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally with salt and water, using about two pounds of salt to four gallons of water; or the slug kind may be easily entrapped on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of turnip on them late in the evening; the slug or snail will readily crowd on them, and may be gathered up early in the morning (before sunrise) and destroyed. Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar. First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur- rows ; then dip others in tar, and pass them through into the floor of the burrows, being careful not to rub off the tar in the operation. Tar is also an effectual remedy against smut GENERAL REMARKS. 21 in wheat: after being heated in a kettle until it becomes thin, it may be stirred in among the grain until it becomes saturated. The wheat should afterward be mixed with a sufficient quantity of wood ashes to dry and render it fit for sowing. To prevent depredations from crows, steep corn in strong saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed corn; and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field. Perhaps the next important point to be attended to is the most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso- pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that “THE TRUE REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS,” It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be de- stroyed by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene- rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vege- tables have grown, and into which they have discharged the excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the prosperity of plants of the same or allied species, though it be well adapted to the growth and support of other distinct species of vegetables. It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excellent preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and all other tap, as well as tuberous rooted vegetables. Celery or Potatoes constitute a suitable preparative for Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica tribe; as also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce, and Onions, provided such ground be well situated, which is a circum- stance always to be duly considered in laying out a garden. Lands that have long lain in pasture are, for the first three or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage, Tur- nips, Potatoes, &c., and afterward for culinary vegetables in general. The following rules are subjoined for farther government : Fibrous rooted plants may be alternated with tap or tuberous rooted, and vice versa. 2° GENERAL REMARKS. Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to shade the land, to be succeeded by such as yield small tops, or narrow leaves. Plants which during their growth require the operation of stirring the earth, to precede such as do not admit of such culture. Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara- gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain long on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rotation of crops, for at least as long a period as it remained under such permanent crops. Hence, in all gardens judiciously man aged, the Strawberry bed is changed every three or four years, till it has gone the circuit of all the compartments ; and Asparagus beds, &c., should be renewed on the same principle, as often as they fail to produce luxuriantly. In deed, no two crops should be allowed to ripen their seed in succession in the same soil, if it can be avoided ; because, if it be not exhausted by such crops, weeds will accumulate more than on beds frequently cultivated. Manure should be applied to the most profitable and ex- hausting crops; and the succession of crops should be so arranged, that the ground may be occupied by plants either valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to the in- creased value of those which are to follow; and the value of the labour required to mature vegetables, and prepare them for market, should be always taken into consideration. Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, Celery, Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinach, &c., will not vegetate freely in dry weather, unless the ground be watered or rolled; where there is no roller on the premises, the following contrivance may answer for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown, and the ground well raked, take a board the whole length of the bed, lay it flat on the ground, begin at one edge of the bed, and walk the whole length of it; this will press the soil on the seed, then shift the board till you have gone over the whole bed. GENERAL REMARKS. 23 In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or strike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel; but this should not be done when the ground is wet. If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in extremely dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water- ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the ground is dry, the transplanting should always be done as soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants, before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made of rich compost. I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. The following table may be useful to the gardener, in showing the number of plants or trees that may be raised on an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-men- tioned distances : Distance apart. No. of Plants. Distance apart. No. of Plants. TL 106tre ta.) y 43,5008 | Steer is Fone a, a eas IP iget sot ne wes 9,500 | Pifect . ee Deetes Vee 8s 105890 1 LO feet ©. os | eee ae 2xigete eh... 05 > 6.969") 18-feet 29 “.* gee a" Siete. YA SAOM) OT feat. RE 9g & Veoh eets hee Se). DDR Od fake ees ote rene Si feety so * stats 1182 Por tock. ee ne BG Gates 2 “oe. theo | 0 feet es tS, es The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 24 GENERAL REMARKS. of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the same quantity of land. An allowance of about one-eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks and paths. The table may also serve to show the gardener how to dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted. for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land; in which case, by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure he may allot to any given quantity of ground. . As it may not be generally known that some kinds of seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for the gardener’s government, provided the seed is carefully, preseryed, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp- ness: GENERAL REMARKS. 25 Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-like seeds, cannot be safely trusted after they are a year old. Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot, Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years. Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Spinach seed, may with care be preserved three years. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash, also, Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel seed, have been known to grow freely when five and even seven years old; but it is not prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of which we are not certain. Tn order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I would observe that great care is necessary, as it is an indubitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other, degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to their kind, in any one garden. If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for seed, as the annexed fact willshow. I once planted for seed some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour, they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal frame, so it is in the vegetable system—disorders very fre- quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at length break out with all their vigour; I would therefore advise seed growers not to attempt to “ bring a clean thing out of an unclean,” but if they find a mixture of varieties among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will in- fallibly have spurious seed. 26 GENERAL REMARKS. TABLE AND EXPLICATION. ** In order to aid the novice in gardening, the following brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre- sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table, will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar- dener and seedsman. . Most i essential || Nutriment. CATALOGUE. Half-Hardy. in Germinating. _ Medium. in Germinating. : Tardy | in Germinating. Capuble of being |} transplanted. Moisture. ATtiChORGs'e.sscissceeore og ass Asparagus ......- oenees Beans (English Dwarfs) iniian Beans (Kidney do)......-. Beans: (NGIG)'s nes. ct s.aesse oes Beet... sc svoscce ~ Borecole, or Kale, ea eee It BrOGGO)ir <: « seusihsemusiee' wlan’ Cauliflower... .s.scsccceees CODDOEE os erarobanaiigeinue siiea. dws |8 CaProt ios ecicieccie dievcciceln ae ESOIOLY st staat §44.4esteis tues CORN Salad sie: viesers se denieressis/'< Cress. a crnccsveercance|s Cucumber... ..ccccseecseees Hee Plants, sees E56 4e's's ik e's Gh ENdivG.. sins as Indian Corn Leek... «0000s ‘ LGteicG ss ini ek die Gewere ees} es Melon: (minsk).2= Peas .- were cree ees o S 0 Bye . coco 4 @ 6 4% oe =/e, @ © © 6) See. ae se o cooooco St eer Tomatoe.. A} Turnip . < Herbs i in gene ral. . In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to premise, that in the classification, as regards the germinating powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some of those denominated medium were put upon an equal foot- ing with some of the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in about the same time. Jor instance, Peas GENERAL REMARKS. 27 would sprout as quick as Kidney Beans, with the same tem- perature ; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germination. Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re- quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such seed at the most favourable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint- ment and loss thereby. * As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such of their error, offer a few observations under each head of: the table. The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half- hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un- fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is * As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here offer a few ob- servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con- sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli- mates of the earth, have each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever they may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will grow best in summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is moisture, must be raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little can be done before the approach of warm weather; it should therefore be our object to improve the autumn months in the cultivation of such vege- tables as can be brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having under each head of the Calendar recommended the most appropriate seasons for the different articles, it is unnecessary to dilate farther here, except to invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto, 28 GENERAL REMARKS. frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard winter, are often cut off by very slight frost while germinating, especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the ordinary winters of England, are here classed as half-hardy, for the reasons above stated. The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of the weather; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them- selves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, instead of throwing blame on the seedsman. The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties as, from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very liable to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout within forty- eight hours after being sown; and under favourable circum- stances, most of the species of this class will come up within a week; but if insects attack the seed beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the consequence. Every expe- rienced farmer is convinced of this fact, by having frequently to sow his Turnip ground three or four times before he can get any to stand. Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in GENERAL REMARKS. 29 general, and especially to those in which plants are raised for the purpose of being transplanted. Those species and varieties embraced in the fifth and sixth columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege- tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by cold, others by excess of dry weather; and at such times, seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar- dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too near the surface; sometimes, for want of suffi- ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, they not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma- nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat. I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the seventh range of the preceding table, such plants as are gene- rally cultivated first in seed beds, and afterward transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with space to mature in, with a view to answer at once the thousand and one questions asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter. Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example, an ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three to four thousand, sufficient, when transplanted, to cover nearly half an acre of and, which land, if sown with Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed. To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would observe, in conclusion, that many other vegetables would admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our table; but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from oF 30 GENERAL REMARKS. the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para- mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances, with the gene- rality of thase plants not thus designated. Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for the future follow the example of the truly eccentric Aber- nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books, which contain an answer to every important question that has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I became an author. T. BRIDGEMAN. * * Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions which follow are founded on the results of practical experi- ence in the vicinity of New-York Crry, where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the end of March. These directions may, however, be applied to all other parts of the Unrrep Srares, by a minute observ- ance of the difference in temperature. In the extreme northern parts of the State of New-York, as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions for the beginning of April will apply to the latter end ‘of the same month, with very few exceptions. In our Sournern States, the directions for APRIL, which may be considered as the first gardening month in the Eastern, Western, and Mippie Staves, will apply to Janu- ary, February, or to whatever season gardening operations may commence in the respective States. In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen- dar, success is certain. CATALOGUE; &c.,, &c. ARTICHOKE. ArticuauT. Cynara. VARIETIES. Cynara Scolymus, or French. | Cynara Hortensis, or Globe. Tue garden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe, and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July, until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick and plump. Both sorts may be raised from seed,* or young suckers taken from old plants in the spring. be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to Cauliflower. FORCING CUCUMBERS. To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an object of emulation with every gardener. The business of forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should. be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short Prickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed two or three years old is generally preferred, as it is not so apt to run to vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould, and placed in a hot-bed; and some sow the seed in the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting three plants in each pot; when this is done, apply water warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit- ing bed. To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor- tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap, turned three times, and well mixed with a fork ; if any ap- pears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have a regular fermentation. A dry situation should be chosen on which to form beds, 122 FORCING CUCUMBERS. . so that no water can settle under the dung. The substance of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a lively, regular-tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over the dung, about six inches deep; after it has lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are disco- vered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants; but if the earth appears burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should -be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get warm; at the same time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth formed into hills; raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and kept shaded till they have taken root. The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and may rise to 80° without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the frame. Begin by lining the back part first; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be care- ful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all op- portunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing; and in the afternoon, in the advanced FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123 season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated with sheep or pigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather- ing up the earth around them, for which purpose a supply of good mould should be kept ready at hand, to be used as required. When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them, by pinching off the tops, after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or two clear joints, and then stop them also ; and afterward con- tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint; this will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. The following artificial operation is recommended. by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation is effected by nature! Those which some call false blossoms are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation. “The Cucumber,” Abercrombie observes, ‘ bears male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat- ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, close under the base, even before the flower expands. There is never any in the males; but these are placed in the vici- nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis- persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its full size, and the seed will be abortive. The early plants under glass, not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the im- pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants daily ; and as soon as the female flowers and some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off a male blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this 124 FORWARDING LETTUCE. between the finger and thumb; pull away the flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and anthere, or central part, which apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively full expansion; and generally perform it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna- tion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female blossoms. By this management, the young fruit will soon be observed to swell freely.” Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting; and often in succession for two or three months or more, in the same beds, by good culture. FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. Ir it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth, or in hot-bed ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking off the glass in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be left to nature. FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. Heap Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage FORCING MUSHROOMS. 125 plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow- ing seed two or three times between the middle of August and the first week in September. The plants from these sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds, when they are one or two inches high. In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks; these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup- ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at- tention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds. as for other half-hardy plants. FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. Tue Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour, and has a disagreeable smell. Again: the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places. Unwholesome fungi will sometimes spring up on artificial 126 FORCING MUSHROOMS. beds in gardens; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine Mushrooms. The poisonous toad-stool, Agaricus cirocus, may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau- seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any thing disagreeable m the smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a grateful, rich odour. The Aga- ricus campestris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably larger, but are inferior in flavour; he says “that a plant of the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir- mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds; and Mr. Stack- house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a stem as thick as a man’s wrist.”’ Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year, by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma- king a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into the top mould of old hot-beds, The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good quality may often be seen beginnmg to form on the surface, like large peas; when these are absorbed, it is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mush- room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there FORCING MUSHROOMS. 127 is a current of air; but if it be not completely dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac- quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca- pable of producing and preserving spawn; but in order to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of good earth, to cement it together; mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting clay; then form it in the shape of bricks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg: the bricks should then be laid where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow through the whole. When the spawn has spread _ itself through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushroom spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve- getating powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid up; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo- derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur- 128 FORCING MUSHROOMS. pose in the winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but little water, the application of which frequently proves inju- rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situa- tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark frames or pits. H The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, about a yard in thickness, more or less, according to the size dnd situa- tion in which the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches apart; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks, and will continue to produce for several months, if care be taken in gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. Beds made in a convenient place, where there is space all around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces, similar to the roof of a house; this, by being spawned on the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr. Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are his directions, taken from Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gar- dening : “ After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick, These should be new from the stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. Jn the whole process of making up, the bed should be as much exposed to the air as possible; and it should be carefully defended from wet, if out of doors, When this FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129 course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermen- tation, cover it to the thickness of two inches with light, dry earth; if sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whe- ther it be rich or not, the only use of earth here being for spawn to run and mass in. Now lay another course of drop- pings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermentation: then a third course, which, in like manner, earth all over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and productive one, if properly managed afterward. “Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or moist than the sides. This may be done in forming the sole or floor at first, and the bed would then be of equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I have sometimes been contented with two courses as above, instead of three; and often, when materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus: three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I have had produce for ten or twelve months together; but very much depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after management. “ The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; treated them in the same way in every respect; and have found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro- cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun- try, any time of the year; and if the supply be plentiful, a bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished within five or six weeks, In as many more weeks, if in a 130 FORCING MUSHROOMS. stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce, and often sooner; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mush- rooms.” It may be necessary to state farther, that extremes of heat, cold, drought, and moisture, should be avoided in the culti- vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50° in the winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds may rise to 60° or even 70° without injury. Air also must be admitted in proportion to the heat, and 60° should be aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose should always be made blood warm. A light covering of straw may be used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and if the beds are made’in open frames, or otherwise subject te exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made in a cellar. ; Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms after having been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn is injured or destroyed; but if, on the contrary, a bed that has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the whole. ‘If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a month, take off the earth; and if, on examination, there is no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed ; but if, on the contrary, the bed should contaim spawn, 1t may be renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tuber- cles be discernible; if the heat should have declined, the spawn may be taken out and used ina fresh bed. If beds be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of the sun. Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds, FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131 In Poland and Russia there are above thirty kinds in com- mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe- rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways: raw, boiled, stewed, roasted; and being hung up, and dried in their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather any but the kinds we have described.* Physicians say, “ That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege- table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall- nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa- ble of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms.” It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well- known kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. ALTHOUGH our citizens have an opportunity of procuring Melons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being *In order to ascertain whether what-appear to be Mushrooms are of the true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black, they may be considered as genuine Mushrooms, 132 FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. raised too near each other. Those who wish to forward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise plants in; the beds may be formed and the plants managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than the usual time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, may gratify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing the forwarding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following manner: In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and three wide, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same as a common hot-bed; to this must be added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to grow in; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the plants gradually to the weather; and by the latter end of May they may be left to nature. FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. Tue best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three years old, as they will bear earlicr, and make less straw. Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they are sown where they are to remain; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots FORCING POTATOES, 133 or boxes. They do not require excessive heat; the tempe- rature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50° for the nursery-bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting. When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be stir- red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- port themselves. When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly promotes the forming and filling of the pods; they will re- quire to be regularly watered, and as the spring advances they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to shelter them in the event of a sudden change. FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. Porators may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those who attempt to mature Potatves in frames, will of course provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this description. Potatoes may be forwarded in growth previous to being planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar. Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature them in a hot-bed; others plant them in the bed at once, in which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this climate, is to provide pots for the purpose; plant one set in each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 12 134 FORWARDING RADISHES, ETC, can be prepared in February, in which put the pots. While the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots, prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in the mould with the balls of earth attached to them. The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, a quantity of comb-maker’s shavings may be deposited in each hill; this will greatly promote their growth. FORWARDING RADISHES, &c. Rapisues may be obtained early in the spring by means of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one or two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion re- quires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. For raising early Radishes without frames, hot-beds may be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or pliant rods, which should be covered with mats at night, and during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and on fine mild days, take them wholly eff, and harden the plants gradually to the weather. Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads or pot herbs, may be raised in the same way, by sowing the seed in drills and keeping the ground clear of weeds, FORWARDING RHUBARB. 135 FORWARDING RHUBARB. Tose who may desire to have this excellent substitute for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble. It is customary with some persons in the southern parts of England, to keep this plant growing in their kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They have strong neat boxes, made for the purpose, about three feet deep and two wide, and in length according to the demand, from four to eight feet; these being kept clean, have the appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of a kitchen dresser. The plants being taken up out of the garden towards winter, are placed as close at the bottom of the box as they can be, with their crowns level: and some sand being thrown over, suf: ficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes the operation. No farther trouble is necessary, except to give a little water, just to keep the roots moist, as they need no light at all; and if the roots be planted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were removed. Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the autumn, packed in sand, and deposited in a warm cellar, will produce stalks earlier than if kept in the garden; and if placed in hot-beds they will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis may be judged of by the following extract from the London Gardener’s Magazine: “ Rhubarb, which has for some years been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing interest, and more extensively in demand than ever. On the fifth of May, no less than eight wagon loads, each weighing at least a ton, with an equal quantity in smaller proportions, were sold in Covent Garden market alone. One cultivator, Mr. Myatt, of New Cross, Deptford, had three wagon loads; he has, f believe, nearly twenty acres of it under culture.” This plant 136 FORWARDING TOMATOES. contains an acid as fine as the Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; a square rod of ground will supply a family; and it may be used till midsummer or later. [For fuller explanations, see article Rhubarb.| FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS, &e. For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., in small quanti- ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good heating materials, on the top of which may be laid leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches. The various kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower- pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising annual flower plants at an early season. FORWARDING TOMATOES. As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat- ter end of February, or early in March, as directed in former pages, will grow to the length of four inches and upward by the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots, they may be kept growing therein until settled warm weather, and then turned out and deposited in the ground with the balls of earth entire; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by the first of April, in the manner recommended for Bush FORCING VEGETABLES, 137 Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the plants inserted in the earth at once ; these will produce ripe fruit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way. FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES. Tue following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale is recommended by a correspondent of a London magazine : “Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep; a quantity of horse droppings, per- fectly dry; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. “Four such boxes at work are sufficient for a moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con- venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. “The same sized boxes will alsa do for Asparagus; but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three-year-old plants must be at hand; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner’s bark, leaf mould, or any similar mould; on this, pack the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing-house will suit them: on the flue, under the stage, or, in short, any ne, iwlieue they can enjoy the ne- ws 138 FORCING VEGETABLES. cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush- rooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner.” Those who have not the conveniences recommended in a green-house, &c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce. It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro- cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the garden. My directions are founded on the success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to warrant me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the attain- ment of this kind of useful knowledge. METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 139 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. Hovsion. Awniulus lupulus. Autuouex the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it is more or less used in every part of owr country, it may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro- portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I propose giving directions for their management throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants. “The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign of Henry the Eighth; though mdigenous both in Scotland and Ireland, it is ttle cultivated in those countries, owing to the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and Surrey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c.; the first is the most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety, but more subject to blight than the other.* “The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom; a sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free circulation of air, The soil requires to be well pulyerized and manured previous to planting. In Hop districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a * Besides these are the Farnham, or Golden Grape, which is cultivated for an early erop ; and for late picking, the Mayfield Grape, or Ruffler, is esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the yarieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently cannot be of one uniform colour and quality. 140 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the old stools; each should have two joints or buds: from the one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene- rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles, from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles is that of the Span- ish Chesnut. “The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil, and keeping it free from weeds; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with bass or withered rushes; in eradicating superfluous shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. “Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist- ence. Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. Before these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, two or three poles at atime. The Hops are then picked off by women and children. After being carefully separated from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible after METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. j41 they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state in which they are picked. In very warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, they will often heat in five or six hours; for this reason, the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. “The operation of drying Hops is not materially different from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- struction. ‘The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, or the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they are put into bags. “The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on the edge of the hole or trap; and the bag itself being then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. é 142 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. “ The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stripped off, such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni- cal pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from their tops, and their lower ends spread out. “The produce of no crop is so hable to variation as that of the Hop; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt., but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly lable to diseases; when young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green fly, red spider, and ottermoth, the larvae of which prey even upon their roots. The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at differ- ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant.” It appears from an article in the ‘Genesee Farmer,’ that the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus- bandry in the State of New-York. A correspondent observes, that ‘‘as fine samples have been grown in Orange and Ma- dison counties as in any part of the world. The Hop is con- sidered somewhat precarious; but when the season is good, the profit is very great. The average product may be stated at 700 Jbs., though it has reached 1,600 lbs. to the acre ; and in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord- ing to these assumed data, would be about seventy dollars to the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry- ing the crop. ° METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 143 “ The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- bouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1834), has been estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 Ibs., which, hadenot many of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than 200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the denomination of first sorts.. Many of them were picked too early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char- acter of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon form an im- portant article of export, if their character was raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid inspection.” The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described by Linnzus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken internally. e 144 OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU- ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON. Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing this subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here offer a few observations in reference to the practice and prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter of the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter or wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as Potatoes, &c. I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in- fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many cases quite the reverse to what these theorists generally ex- pect; for instance, if the earth and weather should happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of seed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most essential nutriment, motstwe; and in consequence of such seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of the moon, if that luminary influences the seed at all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter. As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described, I shall at once submit to the reader’s attention the following observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons with us, the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where these calculations were made, it is in some respects different : “From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little farm, which I wag taught to care for and cultivate ever since I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 145 sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our success depended on a proper knowledge and management of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in the country makes, untaght, some progress in it; at least, so it was with me. I had actually learned, by silent observa- tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper- fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the fanely support should not be spoiled by the weather before it was housed. “Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the seamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs, From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken in my reckoning. “ About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro- fessing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times of change, full, and quarters of the moon. I have carefully consulted this table for years, and was amazed at bis general accuracy: for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al- teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob- servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, as it has hitherto been contined generally to a few almanacs.” 13 TABLE AND OBSERVATIONS. 146 A TABLE For telling the Weather through all the Lunat of each Year, for ever. wns 0 Tus table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years’ actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration of the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respecting the earth, and will, by simple inspection, show the observer what kind of weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail. a ) iS) Za . TIME OF CHANGE, | IN SUMMER. IN WINTER. Hard frost unless the wind be Between midnight and 2 #t ; Fair. south or west. the morning, Between 2 and 4 morning, Cold with frequent showers, Snow and stormy. Sx OS Be ‘dg 4and ‘6 —:« Rain. Rain. & i; ws 6and 8 “« Wind and rain. Stormy. Sze We S8and10 “« Changeable. Cold rain if wind be west. 7 ss “ 10and12 « Frequent showers. Snow, if east. 2s & At12’clock at noon, and 2 P.M.| Very rainy. Snow or rain. s 3 | Between 2 and 4 P.M. Changeable, Fair and mild, 3 & s “ 4 and 6 P.M. Fair. Fair. Sak Fair if wind NW., Fair and frosty if wind N. or NE. a = a ‘ SeOe Sens Rainy if S. or SW. Rain or snow, if 8. or SE. sle “ — § and 10 P.M. Ditto. Ditto. haw “10 and midnight, Fair. Fair and frosty. OxpservatTrons. 1. The nearer the times of the Moon’s change, first quarter, full and last quarter, are to midnight, the fairer will the weather be during the seven days following. 2, The space of this calculation occupies from ten at night till two next morning. 3. The nearer to midday or noon the phases of the moon happen, the more foul or wet weather may be expected during the next seven days. ; i 4 ‘The space of this calculation occupies from ten in the forenoon to two in the afternoon. These observations refer principally to the summer, though they affect spring and autumn, nearly in the same ratio. 5. ‘The moon’s changes—first quarter—full, and last quarter, happening during six of the afternoon hours, i. e., from four to ten, may be followed by fair weather; but this is mostly dependent upon the wind, as Is noted in table. 6. Though the weather, from a variety of irregular causes, is more uncertain in the latter part of autumn, the whole of winter, and the beginning of spring, yet, in the main, the above observations will apply to | those periods also. | | | | 147 IN. TR.ODUCTLON TO THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. Tue object of this Calendar is to assist the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find employment in some of the departments of gardening in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which farther directions may be found, relative to the operations adyverted to. In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom- panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of ‘the United States, by a minute observance of the difference of temperature. It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul- tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in the coldest part of our Northern territory; the Calendar, therefore, for March, may be applied to the middle of Janu- ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in the coldest; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be taken in the Southern States after the three spring months, for the following reasons : 1. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in the open garden from March to August. 2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49 ; also 52, 72, and 104.| 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 3. Many of the half-hardy class, as also those designated hardy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the winter months, by forwarding such as are required for early spring use, after the summer crops are taken off. [See table, expli- cation, &c., page 26 to 29; also page 115. In the Eastern, Western, and Middie States, the annexed Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying the directions to the beginning of the first spring month in the warmest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli- mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the main crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view to their maturity before winter. JANUARY. “ Procnostics foretoken most truly some things, Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs ; By them from the past we may all ascertain The future, respecting the winds and the rain.” Ir is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to make improved arrangements for the future. The mere gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book- reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he should frequently take a survey of his former practises and those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to do in preparing this little work for the press; not adopt the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the example MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and leave the residue for others. If this little work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene- ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo- randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of leisure, in preference to putting it off till it is wanted. I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these should be already at hand, every gardener should provide manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, drilling machines, and other tools; poles or rods for the support of Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul- tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames, he should make arrangements to get compost and heating materials, in time for the work to be performed in the next month. If he depends on this book for information, he may read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30; and also from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables. FEBRUARY. “A cold,’sour autumn, they sternly maintain, A long, severe winter will bring in its train ; If summer and autumn be both dry and warm, Calm opens the winter, it closes in storm.” ALTHOUGH stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import- ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure ; next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants 13* 150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames are in good repair and ready for use; he should also repair his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them. In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or forcing-pits, let it be kept secure trom heavy falls of snow or rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being made into a bed. With a view to give all attention to cul- ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees and hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches ; he may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while in a torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em- brace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way con- nected with any building calculated to harbour rats, mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc- tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with water from melted snow, &c. When all is prepared as di- rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg- plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112; force Asparagus, 117; Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132; Potatoes, 133; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54. After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant attention; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, as directed under the different heads, from page 112 to 138. If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in page 116; and if it should become necessary to let off steam in cold weather, care must be taken to coyer the appertures MONTHLY CALENDAR. 154 sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu- nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, of last year’s sowing. MARCH. “Tr the sn appear dim, surrounded with haze, And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays; If white at his setting, of power if shorn, The signs are all certain, there’ll soon be a storm.” Tuts month affords considerable employment to an indus- trious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and distributed in heaps, ready to spead, page 24; and the hot- beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention. Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air as the season progresses, to prevent the plants growing weak, taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed. In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh trees, shrubs, vines, &c., are required, these things should be obtained and planted this month, if possible. Begin the work of the kitchen garden as soon as the earth can be brought into good condition, and transplant hardy Lettuce plants, 73; dress Artichoke beds, 33; Asparagus, 37; Rhu- barb, 91; Sea-Kale, 95; and prepare to make new planta- tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39; Beet seed, 44; Rape, 47; plant Cauliflower plants under hand- glasses, 51 and 120; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112; Car- rot, 59; Celery, 60; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, in frames, 121; sow Egg-plant seed, 66; plant Horse-radish, 69 ; Leek, 152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 71; Lettuce, 72; plant Melon seed in hot-beds, 132; sow Onion, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; Pepper, 82; plant Peas, 83; Potatoes, in frames, 133; sow Radish seed, 88 and 134; plant Rocambole, 89; Rhubarb, 90; Sea-Kale, 95; Skir- ret, 97; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turnip seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with the hardiest kinds ; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as may have lain in ridges through the winter, and by manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it early in next month. In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant- ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de- layed until the early part of April; but it should be borne in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more time will be afforded to other important business, as the sea- son progresses. APRIL. “The state of the wind augurs rain, as they say, When restless in changes, now this, now that way, Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by, The rain it betokens is probably nigh.” Tris is certainly the most important month in the year for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul- terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed this month if possible, and some of the early crops sown last month will require hoeing and weeding. Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when too late to sow again. It is also a material consideration to have the best varieties both of seed and plants of their re- spective kinds. See page 25. If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 31; Asparagus, 35; Beans, Victa faba, 39; towards the end of the month, plant Beans, Phaseolus, 41 and 42; Beet seed, 44; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48; not Cape Broccoli until May; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55; Cardoon, 58; Carrot, 59; Celery, 60; sow Cress seed, 64; plant Cu- cumber in frames, 124; sow Endive, 68; plant Horse Radish, 69; Indian Corn, 70; Jerusalem Artichokes, 70; sow Leek seed, 71; Lettuce seed, 72; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132; sow Mustard seed, 76; plant Nasturtium, 76; sow Onion seed, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; plant Peas, 83; Pota- toes, 85; Sweet Potatoes, 86; sow Radish seed, 88; plant Rocambole, 89; Rhubarb, 90; Salsify, 92; Scorzonera, 93; Sea Kale, 94; sow Skirret, 97; Spinach, 99; Tomato, 101, 112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Turnip-rooted Cabbage in varieties, 56; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small- age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe- rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de- scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhubarb, 91; Sea Kale, 95. Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab- bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot- beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in 154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. the open garden. Attend to such other business in this de- partment as may have been left undone last month, and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds, MAY. “Much dew on the grass portends, as all say, That day which succeeds will be a clear day ; But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain, Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain.” As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantationsof Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c.; hoe them frequently, and draw earth to their stems; look out for and destroy grub worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21; thin out the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and de- stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant and sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month; the sowing of Celery, Leck, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify seed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay. Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Egg-plants, &c., from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42; Beet, 44; Borecole, 46; Brussels Sprout seed, 47; Cape Broccoli, 49; Cauliflower, 53; Cabbage, 55 and 56; Car rot, 59; Cress, 64; plant Cucumber, 65; sow Endive, 68; plant Indian Corn, 70; Melon, 74; Water Melon, 75; sow Mustard seed, 76; plant Nasturtium, 76; Okra, 77; Pepper, 82; Peas, 83; Potatoes, 85; Potatoes, Sweet, 86; Pumpkins, 87; sow Radish seed, 85; Squash, 100; Tomato, 101; early in this month finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the old hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best to form new ones, Uncover productive beds once a week, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 and gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130. Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young plants become vigorous. Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by hand and hoe; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to eradicate them before they spread too far, as, by neglect, they will not only impede the growth, but eventually smother the plants. Toward the end of the month, top such of the English Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.] Those who have young families should not fail sowing some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi- cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown in drills and managed the same as salad or Parsley. [See Herbs, 107.] JUNE, “The sky dress’d in placid soft redness at night Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ; A fierce angry redness tliat shoots up at morn, And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm,” Tue principal sowing seasons for general crops may be considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which may be sown this month; and the gardener should ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad- vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared off; and such ground as was manured for the early crops of 156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent for late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and ckean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene- ficial. Use means to destroy insects; read pages 18 to 21 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and 42; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau- liflower, Cabbage, &c., failed last month, sow again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page 19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 58 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 65; sow Endive, 68; plant Indian Corn, 70; transplant Leeks, 71; Okra seed may be planted early in this month, 77; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak them five or six hours in water, 83; plant Potatoes, 85; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish seed, 89; plant Squash, 100. As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top, nip off the tops to strengthen the stems, 140. Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers, or lateral heads. [See page 34.| Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward maturity, must be watered in dry weather ; and as the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the sun, and from rain, 52. Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions; and give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin- ning, as suggested in page 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 JULY: “ When flowers toward evening their blossoms expand, And bask in the sunbeams, there’s no rain at hand ; But when they close up as if conscious of fear, They augur its coming—it no doubt is near.” Tus is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first steeping the rvots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least moisture in the ground when it is freshly turned over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity, may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of Paris, which will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene- ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be harmless, 55. If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month; plant Beans, 41; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 57; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 66; sow Endive seed, and transplant the former sowing, 68; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six hours, 83; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 86 ; and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer Radish seed in drills, 89; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, in varieties, 56; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus- sian Turnip, 105; and the common kinds of Turnip seed may be sown toward. the end of this month, 104. Attend to piantations of Hops, 140; whatever herbs may be required for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower ; Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar- joram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 106 to 108. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. The business of sowing and transplanting will. be more successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca- rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush- room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm moderate showers occasionally, 130, AUGUST. “When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air, And vanish from sight, the next day will be fair ; But when, in succession, they darker appear, > With watery aspect, then know rain is near.” Tue planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur- nips, Spinach, Shallots, Metticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be afterward spread and ploughed under. Plant Beans for picklers, 41; sow Cabbage seed for Col- lards, 57; earth up Cardoons, 58; do. Celery, 62; sow Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63; the early kinds of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 66; transplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 68; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125; sow Onion seed to stand the winter, 78; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 83; sow summer Radish seed, 89; prepare for planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 104; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month ; cut off and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 106 to 108. Hops will be ripe this month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct- ed, page 140; this is a good season for preparing to mak Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits; if the mate- MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 rials be gathered this month, indigenous spawn may be col- lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol’s plan, 128. Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should be cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and before they open in the heart for flowering; and as you cut them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than the watering-pot. Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and full bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed to the sun to ripen; frequently turning them, that they may harden equally for keeping; then clear them from the gross part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and re- move them to a place of shelter, 78. Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and prepare vacant ground for late crops; such as Spinach, Shal- lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98, SEPTEMBER, “ Light vapours o’er valleys and rivers at night, Foretokens the next day salubrious and bright ; Especially when they at morning appear To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air.” AutHoven the sowing season is neatly over, the crops on the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro- gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ; sow Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; Corn 160 “MONTHLY CALENDAR. Salad, or Fetticus, 63; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for a salad, 64; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76; sow Lettuce, 73 and 125; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish, for fall use, 89; plant Shallots, 97; sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 98; Turnips will sometimes come to ma- turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress in growth, 104. Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140 ; also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa- tions ; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most convenient. [lor directions to pre- serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.] Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, is a good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate beds or borders, 106 to 108. In this month must be finished all the principal sowings and plantings necessary this year; on this account such ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should be well manured previous to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.] Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost will destroy Cucumbers, 66. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 16] OCTOBER. “ A warm, open winter doth often succeed A hot and dry summer, by all ’tis agreed ; A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains, And holds gentle spring in its cold icy chains.” Tue principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces- sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. Weed out [etticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery; do it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be- fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and bury them in pits, so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots; begin with the most tender kinds, or do that which is re- quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them in sand inacellar. , Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a thorough cleaning and dressing; by destroying all weeds, cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug- gested, page 108. Tie up full-grown plants of Endive every week in dry weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68. Horse-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, leaving the old stools for future production, 69. Jerusalem Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for winter consumption, 71. 14* 162 MONTHLY CALENDAR. NOVEMBER. “When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow, A cold and wet harvest, there’s no doubt, will follow 5 But when they are plenty, and good, ’tis agreed, A rich, golden harvest is sure to succeed.” Enpeavoor to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them close together in pits; give them a coat of straw, and afterward heap on as much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. ‘Toward the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close tegether against a ridge, which should be previously formed in a straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ; throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other, The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet; a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see articles, pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col- lards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163 Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the man- agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32; Asparagus, 37; Rhubarb 91; Sea-Kale, 95. Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots, as will be required for use the next three months. Spread short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August and September, which will protect them through the winter. DECEMBER. ‘A wet, sultry summer, prognostics affirm, A boist’rous autumn will bring in its turn ; A cold, sour autumn and summer portend A winter severe from beginning to end.” Ir all was not done as directed last month, there is no time to be lost, Every thing that needs protection should now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and provide manure for another year. Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience 164 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing them in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March, or early in April, with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pro- duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis- turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys- tem, as recommended in page 132, or in the open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting seedling plants into the fruiting beds. If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all moderate weather during the winter, give air to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, boards, litter, &c., as necessity may require. As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- dener to review the results of his practice throughout the past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the future. In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective view of his previous management, and also of the directions given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation of the soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c., as circumstances may require; bearing in mind, that although clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the winter. 165 TO THE PEOPLE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. FELLOW-CITIZENS : An application having been made to your Representatives in Congress to vote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States, OR ABOUT A MILLION DOLLARS OF YOUR RESOURCES, to the promotion of an improved system of “ Terra-culture,’ as described in Senate, Document No. 23, of the third session of the 25th Congress, I hereby direct your attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant’s preamble ; copies of which were forwarded to each member of the 26th Congress, in session, November 30, 1839, by Russell Comstock. From the Poughkeepsie Eagle, of January 25, 1840. PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &c. GREAT DISCOVERY. To the Hon. Perry Smith, Chairman of the United States Senate Com- mittee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. ‘“ With the consent and by the advice on the 23d inst., of the chairman of the United States Senate Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress, I forward to each member “of the 26th Congress the accompanying document dated the 14th inst.; the object is fo show you some of the proof that a discovery of vital importance to civilized man has been made, which in several letters from different members of the present and last Congress is valued at HUNDREDS OF MIL- LIONS OF DAYS’ LABOUR, AND WORTH MORE THAN ALL THE DISCOVE- RIES OF THE PRESENT AGE COMBINED—THE APPLICATION OF STEAM NOT EXCEPTED. “For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more freely or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or the pro- ceeds thereof? Would they not be grateful to those members of Congress, who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the desired informa- tion, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind. “For the honour of the Republic, for the honour of the age, and for the interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that disco- very which may cause two seeds to ripen where one now does, which pre- vents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has been searched for in vain during the history of all civilized society, die with the discoverer for want of the action of the United States Congress.” Our patriotic discoverer ‘claims the following five discoveries as his, besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25th Con- gress : 166 ist. “ That various diseases, universally supposed to be destructive to plants are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been committed; and that many other injurious effects have been produced by the same error, which are attributed to other causes. 2d. “ That the error is UNIVERSALLY COMMITTED, to a greater or less extent, throughout the States, and that he bas seen an excess of it where- ever he has been, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to Massa- chusetts, inclusive. 3d. “That the PEacw and NrecTarineE are more easily injured by the error than most other Fruit trees, and the cwise of their being more easily injured by it; and that this error causes them to be barren, or short-lived. 4th. “ That the application of two known laws in nature demonstrate the reality of his discovery and its application to the whole vegetable king- dom; and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be per- petuated, and his practice more easily introduced: and that by these two laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained. 5th. “ That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged experi- menters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the scienee and practice of agriculture ; and that he has discovered facts and made himself acquainted with knowledge sufficient to reduce them to practice.” We are farther informed, “ that itis neither climate, nor soil, nor insects, nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous effects that have been attributed to them, but that those effects are produced by error in cul- tivation, which diseases the smallest plant or largest tree.” Our modest and patriotic felluw-citizen admits, in the course of his preamble, “that the practical part of his discovery 1s so EXTREMELY SIMPLE and economical, that it costs no more to prevent the diseases than it does to produce them ; and that it is so different from the established theories and habits of the people, rHaAT UNLESS A LARGE AMOUNT BE APPRO- PRIATED, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the puBLic GooD seems to require that a large amount should be appropriated.”” He more- over asserts, that “there are two known laws in nature, by which the reality of his discovery, and its application to the whole vegetable kingdom, are demonstrable in Jess than thirty words.” That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is not strictly speaking a new discovery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which have inhabited the fields of the old world for over a thousand years ; and our discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, that there are thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he terms “the com- mon error” has never been committed ; and also, that several of the fifteen gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, “confidently for ever,’ have some such trees on their own domains. Hear him—‘ The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the most flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his possession had never had what I call the common error in cultivation committed upon it.” “The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean,) said; that he had long supposed that what I call the common error, was an error, but that he had no idea of such extensive evils arising from it.” “The Senator from Maryland, (Mr, Spence.) said, that in his district it was a universal custom to commit what I call the common error in cultiva- tion, on the fruit trees, and that it was common to have no Plums perfect 167 and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on which the error had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and those few (four) continued to bear abundantly annually ; that he hadno recollection of ever seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these four trees, but that he had never supposed that to have been the cause of their perfection.” The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun,) to whom I am indebted for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable suggestion in the culture of plants, said, ‘‘ while examining the defective trees around the Capitol, that the principle when exhibited was very plain and simple, that it was philosophical, and in his opinion it could not be neglected without injury to the health and growth of trees and plants, and deserving of pub- lic patronage.’ “The Vice President of the United States, (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my discovery was perfectly consistent with the laws of nature; and (when observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the error, and were recovering,) farther remarked, that my theory was essentially cor- rect and obvious to the most superficial observer.” “The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said, that he had reared an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I call the common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourishing and fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently seen a field of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels of shelled grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been avoided, while the success was attributed to quite a different cause.” From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure lays near the surface; and from the disclosure having been communicated to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those gentleman can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con- trary to knowledge and sound judgment ; they must, therefore necessarily and unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which will eventually disseminate in proportion as mankind take an interest in the merits of the alleged discovery. But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress, I have submitted an exposition of my views of the particular points adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta- rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 91, 98 and 124 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener’s Assistant; and I would furthermore remind my readers that the directions heretofore given in this and previous editions of the work are in strict accordance with the same doctrine; and that although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture from the subject having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislators of these United States. And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no bearing on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for its reception by an exhortation to TEMPERANCE AND MODERATION, as the only safe course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of all the varied species of plants, which comprise “the whole vegetable kingdom.” In 168 " articles page 26 of the first part, and pages 16, 28 and 97 of the second part, I have shown that the various species of plants which occupy our greenhouses, gardens, and fields, require each their peculiar aliment—they having been collected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils through earth’s remotest bounds ; they consequently comprise natives of mountains and rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and water courses. The most essential aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being HEAT, artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates to produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious arr, hence they are cultivated to the greatest. perfection in our Northern States in spring and autumn; and in our Southern States in the winter; see page 147 of the first part; and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious plants in general, require a more than ordinary share of mMoristuRE, and grow best in wet soil; but these rorEE ELEMENTS collectively constitute the food of plants in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the various species, in due proportions, according to circumstances. See pages 49, 64 and 67 of the first part, for a more concise view of this subject. I have also shown that the roots of various species of plants require each their peculiar aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land; this is demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food. Although it has been admitted that excessive deep planting of trees and plants is injurious, and in many cases fatal to their very existence, it does not follow that a// annuals and biennials are injured by the same means 5 on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plantsin a late stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which constitutes the most essential art in gardening for the market; because the earliest crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a necessary practice in climates where the seasons for gardening are short—as without such practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly be matured in due season for gathering before winter. ~ I would here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree for instance, is discoverable soon after the error iscommitted, by its fruit ripen- ing prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two prior to its final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against planting perennial plants and trees too deep. In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult the operations of nature in all their rural pursuits; and with a view to aid them, I subjoin the following rules, which are farther illustrated under the different heads : 1. In transplantiug fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium sized tree may be planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed; and the largest should not exceed two or three inches. See pages 93, 101 and 125 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener’s Assistant. 2. In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted, or grown in hills or clusters, as Indian Corn, &c., keep the earth loose but level around them in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or culti- 169 vating ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion of earth about the roots and stems at the last or final dressing. 3. In the sowing of seed, remember that IN UNITY THERE IS STRENGTH, and that from the germinative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive, it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary andalone. To insure a fair chance plant your seed moderately thick, and thin out the surplus plants while young. In planting seed in drills, which is the most eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should be consi- dered ; large seed, producing vigorous roots, require deeper planting than diminutive seed, producing delicate roots and slender stalks. 4. In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate the native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judicious mixture of maiden earth, loam, sand, leaf, swamp, and rock mould, decom- posed manures, and such other composts as are recommended :under the different heads. Remember, that although strong manure is essential to the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. PURSUE, THEN, A MEDIUM couRsr. From your soil not being too stiff or two light, too rich or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too porous, if not positively salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation of each endura- ble. I again repeat,"that temperance in the use of aliment, is as essential to the welfare of the vegetable family as it is to the health, happiness, and longevity of mankind, T. BRIDGEMAN, New-York, March 4, 1840. 37 Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article in the Poughkeepsie Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein owr modest and patriotic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge as superior to that of “ all Botanical and Agricultural known writers /’ AsI have anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery in my books, I have nothing more to say than to remind the reader that this uncalled for attack on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies not merely the publication, but the most general circulation of these my voluntary disclosures. RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. THIS summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid the Seeds- man and Gardener in making out a bill of seed for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the Vegetable Department of the Young Gardener’s Assistant, to which the reader is referred for a more concise view of the subject. ' Page. Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants, - - 31 Asparagus; one ounce will be sufficient for 1000 plants - - 35 Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed will be required for every sixty feet of row, - - - - - - - - 40 Beans, Kidney Dwarf; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, : - a - 2 42 170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. Beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Lima, or large running Beans gp will plant about 300 hiils, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43 Beet; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, - - 45. Borecole, or Kale, an ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - 46, Broccoli; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - - - 50 Cauliflower; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 53 Cabbage; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, = - - - - 55. Cardoon Artichoke ; an ounce will produce 600 plants, - - 53 Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, - - - 59; Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, - - - 60, Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles ef ground, =< - - - - - - - - - 63 Cucumber; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, - - 65.- Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - ° 67 Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, - - - 68 Leek ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, - = = 71 Lettuce ; an ounce will produce, say t0,000 plants, == - . 713 Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74 Melon, Water; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills, - - 15 Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, - - 18 Parsley 3 two ounces may be allowed for three perches, - - 80 Parsnip ; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - 7 8] Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, - - - 82 Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, - - 84 Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 88. Potatoes, Sweet; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will reduce 15 bushels, - - - - - - - 86. Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 500 to 600 hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to 80 hills, 87 Radish; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad- cast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills, - - - 8a Salsify ; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, = - - 93 Shallots; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, - - - 9S Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the quantity, = - - 99: Squash ; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according to sorts and size, - - - - - - - - 100: Tomato ; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - TO1 Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land, - 105. QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE. Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds. Orchard Grass, - - - 2 bushels. Timothy, ------ 1 peck. Rye Grass,- - - -- - 2 bushels. Herds Grass, i- <..- = - } bushel. Lucerne, - +--+ -- - 8 pounds. For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be found excellent, viz: 6 pounds of clover seed, 1} peck of herds grass, and half a bushel of Orchard grass seed —or 6 pounds clover, half a bushel of rye grass, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seed. 171 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. “The first edition of ‘The Young Gardener’s Assistant’? has been favourably noticed in France :—“ One of the leading articles of the Annales de Institute Rvyal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice of “ The Young Gardener’s Assistant,” by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very commendable terms.”—New York Farmer. Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, &c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston: “The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value, even to the experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. Ir IS ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, and unlike compilations- from English works, the novice 1s not led into disappointment by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, Ir is WoRTH ALL OTHERS OF A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN= TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners.” “No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain useful information. By being arranged in the form of a catalogue, you can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing, depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &c., is clearly defined. The Calendarial Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole price of the book, and must have cost the author much research and labor- ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman is not a theorist, but is in the daily practice of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct all beginners in the profitable and delightful employment of cultivating a garden, ‘a profession and an employment for which no man is too high or too low.’ ’—Genessee Farmer. “It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall be, ‘generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage- ment of their own gardens.’ Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate—an advantage of no little moment.”—American. “Among the plants for the cultivation of which ‘ The Young Gardener’s Assistant’ contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not generaily introduced in the United States. The introduction and success- fal cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman’s garden, seve- yal varieties of Broad Beans, Victa fuba, in a most vigorous and _ thrifty growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put’ forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament forthe flower garden.”—New York Farmer, 172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES, “BripceEmAn’s GARDENER’s AssistTant.—The fourth edition of this useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by the addition of several matters not contained in either of the former editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener’s memory.”—Evening Post. “No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening ever published in this country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mr.: Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from his own experience.”’—Daily Express. “That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and patronage ; and such we consider ‘The Young Gardener’s Assistant.’ ”’”—~ Morning Herald. “ The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in Agriculture, ‘far from the busy haunts of men,’ and to the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic.” —Old Countryman. “From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman’s book, we should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dits or dic- tums of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed out; and in this particular, we value his book—leading the young gardener to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom.” American Farmer. “All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot- beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables, Pruning, Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale, or decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he treats. The very rapid sale of the eight former editions is quite a sufficient recommendation.’—G. C, Thorburn, in the Evening Star. ‘We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book, Mr. Bridgeman bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of style particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words. The amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value; and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its soil.”— American Gardener's Magazine. “From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give * The Young Gardener’s Assistant,” we should judge that it embraces a greater amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be found in any similar work. ‘The list of froit trees has been selected from the best authorities, both foreign and Ameriean, and is sufiiciently exten> sive for any cultivator in this country.’—Newark Daily Advertiser, i COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 173 The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits.” —Guzetie. “ From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invalua- ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens.—Albany Argus. Extract of a letter from Alex’r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg : _ Dear Sir :—You will see by the next month’s New-York Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the Young Gardener’s Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B.Slingerland and myself were on the com- mittee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was deserving encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before the public as worthy of being given as premiums.’ * “Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of twenty years’ experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than those in more costly and expensive works.”’—Courier & Enquirer. “We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all others of a similar character that have ever been published in this country, from its adaptation to all the climates in the United States.”—N. Y. Sun. “That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers, Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification, we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication.” —N. Y¥. Tridune. *‘ Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul- ture.”—Working Man’s Advocate. “No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, as this valuable compen- dium. Mr. Bridgeman fuily understands, from practical experience, the subject on which he treats. The Calendarial Index arranges the work for every month, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed. This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author immense labour. The rapid sale of the former editions, together with the commendation of every Agricultural and Horticultural Journal in America, and several in England, is quite sufficient recommendation. The present edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a great discovery (as great as steam) on the preservation of Fruit Trees, Plants, &e., and which, to make known to the people of these United States, an application was made to the 25th Congress to vote the supposed * The American Institute has also awarded several copies cPthis work as premiums for superior specimens of garden products. 174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. author of the discovery a sum equal to five cents fromeach individual in the United States—or about a million of doilars, Mr. Bridgeman has clearly proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and treatment of Trees and Plants, and which only occupies some four or five pages of the work.”—N. Y. Commercial, by G. C. Thorburn. ‘ “Tur Fiorist’s Guipe.—A delightful little book, which we advise every body to purchase—at least every body that has the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it treats.’—Courier § Enquirer. “The Florist’s Guide,” like its companion, “ The Young Gardener’s As- sistant,” is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe- cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, makes it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens.” —Newark Daily Advertiser. “This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herbaceous and Shrubby, Bulbous, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. &c. “A work of the above kind has been long wanted; hitherto, it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c., which, when procured, were so full of botanical foppery. that plain, honest people, after wading through some three or four bundred pages, were as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com- menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for whom the work was projected) an essential service ; the directions for the care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual — Flower Seed, &c., are alone worth double the price of the book; so is the Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject.”—G. C+ Thorburn, from the N. Y. Commercial. “ The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen- cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. We very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book.’— Gardener’s Magazine. The Florist’s Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultivation and correct management of flowers— the study of which, remarks one of these writers, ‘‘ refines the taste, and imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of nature.” 175 LINES SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR OF § THE YOUNG GARDENER’S ASSISTANT,’ AT THE FOURTEENTH ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FoR ITS) | GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY. BY D. MITCHELL. As Vator’s meed, and Honor’s brightest test, I’ve seen a MEpaL on a Warrior’s breast ; But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view— The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo— Th, orphan’s tear—the widow’s drooping head, For slaughter’d heroes on false glory’s bed— The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil’d, By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil’d ! Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace, Thou lov’st to see fair Nature’s wide increase, And the “ Young Gard’ner,” in thy fertile book, Finds an “ Assistant’ not to be mistook ! Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate, Fill Plenty’s horn, and better man’s estate ; E Thine is the wish the Cotter’s life to mend, And teach him that a garden is his friend : That Virtue smiles—sheds blessings on his head, And makes him happy in his humble shed, Who fends his “ little patch ”’ in well spent hours, Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers; That Vice ne’er mars a lovely scene like this— The consummation of the poor man’s bliss ! Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee, Health to the scions from the parent tree ; Well may thy trophy be a source of pride, May they preserve it, whatsoe’r betide : *Tis a memento for imparting good, More nobly won than that for shedding blood! AMERICAN STANDARD HORTICULTURAL BOOKS. The Young Gardener’s Assistant, containing Catalogues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical Pinachans under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- | nary Vegetables and Flowers; also, directions for culti- vating Fruit Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, including the Tig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is | added a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- cessary to be done in the various departments of Gar- dening each month of the year. The whole adapted to the climate of the United States. The tenth edition, improved, 504 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist: New-York. or As each part of the above Work makes a complete volume, the Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view to accommodate the different description of cultivators. They are entitled as follows :— The Kitchen Gardener’s Instructor; which contains ample directions for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables and Herbs throughout the ordinary season ; and instructions for F orcing and Forwarding Vegetables in winter and early in the spring. The Florist’s Guide, contains all the necessary information for managing a Flower Garden, and for cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Greenhouse, or warm room. The Fruit Cultivator’s Manual, is designed to qualify the novice in Fruit Culture for the superintend- ence of his own Orchard and Fruit Garden. Each of the above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty Cents, half bound; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. [== Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of Eighteenth Street, New-York. me eg” fay om Beit, & je e ae i an | » ’ : 4 ' ‘ ‘ B ; - = = 4 : + f ? 2 ‘ # . ¥ @ ae so PAS ae Dnt Ill ii i Vitti] AMERICAN STANDA OOOLYSSi7ac ———— The Young Gardene-’s Assistant, containm Catalogues of Garden and [lower Seed, with Tacit Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- nary Vegetables and Flowers; also, directions for culti- vating Fr uit Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, including the Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is aadad a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- cessary to%e done in the various departments of Gar- dening each month of the year. The whole adapted | to the climate of the United States. The tenth edition, improved, 504 pages octavo, By T. BRIDGE AY aD Seedsman, and Florist: New-York. af ow d a4 SE Or 2 ole PRELIM GE. 9 X= As each part of the above Work makes a complete volume, the Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view to accommodate the different description of cultivators. They ar ; entitled as follows :— The Kitchen Gardener’s Instructor; which. contains ample directions for the euinrrnen of ‘Culinary Vegetables and Herbs throughout the or linary season ; sel: instructions for Foreme and EF orwarding Vegetables in winter and early in the spring. eee The Florist}s Guide, contains all the necessar information for managing a Flower Garden, and fo cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Greenhouse, warm room. sSeleIeses Bis ane cA The Fruit Cultivator’s Manual, is designed ~ qualify the novice 1a [’rauit Culture for the superintend- ence of his own Orchard and Fruit Garden. pie Ce ee TOS elele)e wile! _Each ofthe above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty Cents, half bound; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. ae {= Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on | terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of. Eight Street, New-York. si EES OS es. * &