U5 Pirmy or
Ceast Erg. Res-Cte,
MR 77-7, %:!
(AB- A043 $70)
Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies
VOLUME I
_ Procedures Used in 10 Movable-Bed Experiments
by
Robert P. Stafford and Charles B. Chesnutt
MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 77-7
JUNE 1977
AY HOTS
fou MENT
\ COLLECTION /
Approved for public release;
distribution unlimited.
U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS
COASTAL ENGINEERING
RESEARCH CENTER
TE hae | ‘Kingman Building
2.03 Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060
eee or ean of ae of ee material shall ere ee
ATTN: oes Division
5285 Port Royal Road
|by other
UNCLASSIFIED
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READ INSTRUCTIONS
REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE BEFORE COMPLETING FORM
1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NOJ| 3. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER
MR 77-7
. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED
LABORATORY EFFECTS IN BEACH STUDIES
Miscellaneous Report
Volume I. Procedures Used in 10 Movable-Bed 6. PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER
Experiments
AU THOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s)
Robert P. Stafford
Charles B. Chesnutt
PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK
AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS
Department of the Army
Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERRE-CP)
Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 D31192
11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS 12. REPORT DATE
Department of the Army June 1977
13. NUMBER OF PAGES
(pt 2
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DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of this Report)
Approved for public release; distribution unlimited.
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abstract entered in Block 20, if different from Report)
- SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES
. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number)
Breakers Wave envelopes
Coastal engineering Wave generators
Currents Wave height variability
Model studies Wave reflection
Movable-bed experiments Wave tanks
ABSTRACT (Continue am reverse side if necessary and identify by block number)
Procedures developed and conditions existing during 10 experiments on
Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS) are contained in this volume as
a convenient reference to the analyses of LEBS data reported in separate
volumes. This report also serves as a procedural manual for a common type
of coastal engineering experiment, and it describes the wave generators used
to produce data published in previous reports by the Coastal Engineering
Research Center (CERC). Special attention is given to the problem of running
Continued
Re
DD ‘ee 1473 ~—s EDITION OF 1 NOV 65 IS OBSOLETE
BLL) Ue) UNCLASSIFIED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered)
UNCLASSIFIED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)
movable-bed experiments in outdoor facilities. Recordkeeping, construction of
initial profile, water level control, wave height measurement, analysis of
wave envelopes, ripple effects on profile accuracy, temperature measurement,
and observation of breakers and currents are also discussed.
2 UNCLASS IF IED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)
PREFACE
Ten experiments were conducted at the Coastal Engineering Research
Center (CERC) from 1970 to 1972 as part of an investigation of the Labora-
tory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS), to relate wave height variability
to wave reflection from a movable-bed profile in a wave tank. The inves-
tigation also identified the effects of other laboratory constraints.
This report (Vol. I), the first of a series of eight volumes, documents
the procedures used in the 10 movable-bed laboratory experiments. It also
serves as a guide for conducting realistic coastal engineering laboratory
studies. Volumes II to VII are data reports for each experiment; Volume
VIII is a final analysis report. The work was carried out under the CERC
coastal processes program.
This report was prepared by Robert P. Stafford, senior technician in
charge of the experiments for the duration of the experimental program,
and Charles B. Chesnutt, principal investigator from the beginning of the
1971 experiments through the completion of the program. Cyril J. Galvin,
Jr., Chief, Coastal Processes Branch, was the principal investigator from
the beginning of the experimental program through the planning of the 1971
experiments and provided general supervision thereafter.
Comments on this publication are invited.
Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th
Congress, approved 21 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th
Congress, approved 7 November 1963.
JOHN H. COUSINS
Colonel, Corps of Engineers
Commander and Director
Il
IV
VI
VII
VIII
CONTENTS
CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)
INTRODUCTION.
GENERAL PROCEDURES.
1. Facilities. :
2. Experiment Schedule
3. Records . 4
4. Profile Comataane sore
5. Profile Protection.
WATER LEVEL CONTROL .
Necessity . :
Ze coOce dure mt On Soucbilaishting Controlt
3. Procedure for Maintaining Control
4. Problems Encountered.
5. Water Depth .
HH
WAVE GENERATOR OPERATION.
1. Experimental Setup.
2. System Components
3. Wave Period Control
4. Wave Period . SRS ee 6
5. Problems Encountered in woneret ion :
6. Generator Stroke.
WAVE HEIGHT DATA.
Pe DatanCollectrones
2. Data Reduction.
SURVEY DATA . 5
lee Dateae Colle ctatonar
2. Data Reduction.
BREAKER AND RUNUP DATA.
Ie Datag Colle ctaony:
2. Analysis of Breaker Davee,
RIPPLE FORMATION DATA .
SAND SAMPLES.
ee Colle ctatone
2. Size Analysis .
WATER TEMPERATURE AND CURRENT DATA.
1. Water Temperature .
2. Current Data.
APPENDIX
A RECORDKEEPING .
B FUNCTION OF WAVE GENERATOR COMPONENTS .
C AUTOMATED DATA REDUCTION OF REFLECTION COEFFICIENT.
TABLES
1 Sumnary of experimental conditions.
2 LEBS profile surveying sequence .
3 Incident wave height for fixed-bed experiments 70X-06 and
7OX-10 .
4 Frequency of occurrence of ripple heights and resulting error .
5 Actual errors due to ripples on the special ripple survey .
FIGURES
1 Plan view of the Shore Processes Test Basin
2 North section of Shore Processes Test Basin .
3 Seaward-looking view of 6-foot-wide wave tanks.
4 Seaward-looking view of 10-foot-wide wave tanks .
5 Definition sketch of coordinate system.
6 Valve and pipe system of the Shore Processes Test Basin .
7 Water level gage and hydrant.
8 Contour map of concrete bottom on sand side of 10-foot tank .
9 Contour map of concrete bottom on sand side of 6-foot tank.
10 Portable wave generator with wall closing plates.
11 Gap between the generator frame and end of the generator blade.
12 Eccentric setting on portable generator .
CONTENTS-Continued
XI SUMMARY .
LITERATURE CITED.
Page
14
1S
16
WH
18
CONTENTS
FIGURES-Continued
Idealized wave envelope .
Lower Kp values and similar Kp trend from automated method in
experiment 70X-06.
Lower Kp values and similar Kp trend from automated method in
experiment 70X-10.
Correlation of manual and automated methods for determining Kp
(experiment 70X-06).
Correlation of manual and automated methods for determining Kp
(experiment 70X-10).
Comparison of results from three methods of determining sediment
size distribution.
Page
5)
35
36
Si
38
44
CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)
UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SI)
units as follows:
Multiply by To obtain
inches 25.4. millimeters
2.54 centimeters
square inches 6.452 square centimeters
cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters
feet 30.48 centimeters
0.3048 meters
square feet 0.0929 square meters
cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters
yards 0.9144. meters
square yards ° 0.836 square meters
cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters
miles 1.6093 kilometers
square miles 259.0 hectares
knots 1.8532 Kilometers per hour
acres 0.4047 hectares
foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters
millibars 1.0197 X 10°? kilograms per square centimeter
ounces 28.35 grams
pounds 453.6 grams
0.4536 kilograms
ton, long 1.0160 metric tons
ton, short 0.9072 metric Lons
degrees (angle) 0.1745 radians
Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelyins!
Ties lunar Collatvia((C) suman Rec Rom MeN AIO EE CC rONea
To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (PF — 32) + 273.15.
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LABORATORY EFFECTS IN BEACH STUDIES
Volume I. Procedures Used in 10
Movable-Bed Experiments
by
Robert P. Stafford and Charles B. Chesnutt
I. INTRODUCTION
This report (a) documents procedures necessary to conduct meaningful
coastal engineering movable-bed laboratory experiments and model studies;
(b) describes common procedures used in the Coastal Engineering Research
Center's (CERC) investigation of Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS)
to conserve space and avoid repetition in reports on LEBS experiments;
(c) provides a detailed record of LEBS experimental conditions for future
analysis involving presently unrecognized parameters (e.g., tank length
was not considered a significant parameter and often was not reported
before the LEBS experiments); and (d) provides background on the operation
of CERC's portable wave generators which have been used in other investi-
gations (Savage, 1959, 1962; Fairchild, 1970a, 1970b; Galvin and Stafford,
MOONE
A series of 10 experiments was conducted from 1970 to 1972 to define
the amount of wave height variability due to wave reflection and variation
in the reflection, and to measure the approach to "equilibrium" profiles
for the wave and sediment conditions tested. The same sediment was used
in all 10 experiments and the water depth and generated wave energy flux
were held constant at 2.33 feet (0.71 meter) and 5.8 foot-pounds per
second per foot (25.8 joules per second per meter), respectively. Of the
10 experiments, 5 were performed in a 6-foot-wide (1.8 meters) tank and 5
in a 10-foot-wide (3 meters) tank.
These experiments were conducted in relatively long, narrow wave tanks
with the wave approach direction normal to the initial shoreline, and were
expected to be two-dimensional. However, three-dimensional effects were
observed in the profile development, the reflection envelopes, and the
current patterns. These effects will be discussed in later reports.
Two experiments were conducted in 1970, one in each wave tank, with a
wave height of 0.36 foot (0.11 meter), a wave period of 1.90 seconds, and
an initial profile slope of 0.10. The initial test length (distance from
the wave generator to the initial stillwater level (SWL) intercept) was
100 feet (30.5 meters) in the 6-foot tank, and 61.7 feet (18.8 meters) in
the 10-foot tank. After 54 hours in the 6-foot tank and 62 hours in the
10-foot tank, the beach had eroded to the back of the tank. From then
until the end of the experiments, sand was periodically added to the back-
shore to maintain an adequate supply. The two experiments were repeated
in 1971 under the same conditions, except that additional sand was added
which shortened the initial test length by 7 feet (2.1 meters) in both
tanks. Five experiments (two in the 6-foot tank and three in the 10-foot
tank) were performed in 1972 with different wave energy densities but with
the 1971 initial beach slope and initial test length. A sixth experiment
was performed in 1972 in the 6-foot tank with a 0.05 initial beach slope
and the 1971 wave energy density and initial test length. The test condi-
tions are summarized in Table 1. The typical testing season was from May
to December.
This report is part of a series of 8 reports on the 10 experiments, to
consist of an experimental procedures report, 6 data reports, and a final
analysis report. Each of the six data reports will cover conditions as
identified in Table 1. The data in these reports are primarily intended
to: (a) Relate temporal and spatial wave height variability to reflection
from the movable-bed profile, (b) measure the approach of the profile to
an equilibrium condition, and (c) determine as quantitatively as possible
the effect of other laboratory constraints (e.g., water temperature, tank
length and width, and initial slope) on the resulting laboratory profile.
This report documents the experimental procedures common to all the
experiments, and alleviates the necessity of repeating these procedures
in each of the six data reports. The data reports discuss the results
from the experiments, and each report includes an appendix documenting
the data collection and reduction procedures unique to the experiments.
Three earlier reports on these experiments are also documented in
this report. Chesnutt, et al. (1972) discussed the development of the
profiles in experiments 70X-06, 70X-10, 71Y-06, and 71Y-10. Chesnutt and
Galvin (1974) analyzed the relationship between reflection variability
and profile development in the same four experiments. Chesnutt (1975)
analyzed other laboratory effects observed in experiments 70X-06, 71Y-06,
and 72D-06.
II. GENERAL PROCEDURES
Ig Paeatilsienes -
The Shore Processes Test Basin (SPTB), located in Washington, D.C.,
was a large, 3-foot-deep, outdoor, concrete basin (Figs. 1 and 2). Within
the basin, pairs of 6- and 10-foot-wide wave tanks were constructed of
aluminum panels (Figs. 3 and 4). The movable-bed profile occupied the
left side (facing seaward) of each pair of tanks, and a 0.10 concrete slope
occupied the right side. The concrete side was used for control purposes.
The tank walls supported a manually propelled instrument carriage which
was used for data collection along the full length of the tanks (see Figs.
5 and 4).
2. Experiment Schedule.
Each experiment was performed in a series of runs in either of two run
sequences. The last column in Table 1 indicates the run sequence for each
experiment; Table 2 indicates the cumulative test times at the end of
10
Table 1. Summary of experimental conditions.
Experiment ! Initial test Initial Generated SUE aan
length slope wave height? sequence
(ft) (ft)
i=)
So So So 2 Cc Co LS S&S OS
RP FP BH NY WN WA FF FY RF eB
S © Ss So © So 2 2 © ©
fev} es} Yee) fes) les]) tes} pe pea pe aes
od
.0
od
0
wk
0)
off
off
0
IThe first two digits indicate year of experiment; the letter follow-
ing the year indicates the planned separate reports (X, Y, A, B, C,
and D). The last two digits indicate the tank used for the experi-
ment (6- or 10-foot tank).
Determined for given wave period and constant water depth of 2.33
feet, so that generated wave energy flux computed from linear
theory had a constant value of 5.8 foot-pounds per second per foot.
3The cumulative time at the end of each run for the two surveying
sequences is defined in Table 2.
NOTE.--The same sediment was used in all 10 experiments; however, the
initial average ds 9 (by dry sieve analysis) of quartz sand was 0.23
millimeter in 1971 and 0.22 millimeter in 1972.
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Figure 3. Seaward-looking view of 6-foot-wide wave tanks.
Figure 4. Seaward-looking view of 10-foot-wide wave tanks, with
protective covers over subaerial beach.
Table 2. LEBS profile surveying sequences.
Sequence A End of Sequence B End of
experiment experiment
(hr :min) zmi (No. )
70X-10
71Y-10
71Y-06
2Increments of 2.
3Increments of 5.
15
successive runs for the two different run sequences, and the duration of
each experiment. During each run, test condition control data, including
stillwater surface elevation and wave period, and independent variable
data, including wave reflection measurements, breaker and runup observa-
tions, and current data (in 1972) were collected. Profile surveys were
made after each run. Water temperature was monitored twice daily (morning
and evening). Less frequently, with the wave tanks drained, ripple forma-
tions were photographed, surface sand samples were collected, and additional
smaller grid surveys were made. The basin was drained slowly to minimize
erosion damage to the ripples, which could be caused by ground water seepage
or impoundment by ripples and bars.
3. Records.
Since various types of data were collected, an organized procedure for
recordkeeping was developed. The primary record was the laboratory note-
book in which a daily log of test activity was maintained. To ensure that
a complete, detailed account of all test events was obtained for later
reduction and analysis, other data collection forms were necessary. An
example and a brief description of the significant types of data collection
forms are given in Appendix A. Standardization in data collection was
achieved by either using regulation forms or designing new forms for spe-
cific types of data.
4. Profile Construction.
The sand beach was graded using the same procedure in each experiment
to minimize the possible effects of unequal compaction. The sand, when
shoveled into the tanks, was loosely packed and higher elevations than
desired were established for the initial grading. The basin was completely
filled and then drained, allowing the sand to compact before the slope was
regraded to the exact elevations desired. The basin was then filled to the
standard depth and after 24 hours the initial survey was made. The inter-
section of the SWL with the initial sand slope at the center wall was
established as the origin of the coordinate system (defined in Fig. 5).
5. Profile Protection.
Every evening and during inclement weather, plywood covers were placed
over the subaerial part of the profile to prevent damage from wind or rain
(Fig. 4). A plastic sheet was placed over the plywood covers to prevent
water from dripping through the gaps between the covers. This practice also
allowed a run to be completed if it rained. When runs were not in progress,
a plywood sheet was lowered into the water (without disturbing the profile)
at the seaward end of the covers to prevent wind-generated waves from reach-
ing the beach. Copper sulfate was added to the water weekly to retard the
growth of algae, which can cement the sand bottom and retard sediment
motion. Leaves frequently fell into the test area, and daily cleaning of
the subaerial beach and water surface was necessary.
16
Toe of Original
Slope WN
Concrete
+X
eee ee
Rat gns, of Generator Initial SWL
Blade Movement Intercept
—= Ranges =
Plan View
Elevations
Profile View
Figure 5. Definition sketch of coordinate system.
III. WATER LEVEL CONTROL
1. Necessity.
The SPTB plumbing system is shown in Figure 6. A constant water depth
was maintained throughout a test to eliminate, or minimize, the effect of
changing water depth on the (a) instrument carriage-to-water level dis-
tance, (b) position of the shoreline, and (c) generated and reflected wave
conditions.
2. Procedure for Establishing Control.
In order that data be comparable in a given test area from 1 year to
the next, water level criteria were established in 1970 according to cri-
teria which had been used from the beginning of service of the particular
test area within the SPTB.
The north basin was filled to the approximate desired depth and then
adjusted until the average of the depths along ranges 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9
at the toe of the concrete slope was 2.340 feet (the reference depth in
earlier experiments in the 10-foot tanks). A 4-inch-long (10 centimeters)
notch was made with a hammer and chisel at the east end of the concrete
Slope at the SWL intercept. The reference depth in the 6-foot tank was
established in a similar manner at 2.330 feet and a black line was drawn
at the SWL intercept on the concrete slope.
3. Procedure for Maintaining Control.
To monitor the water level while the wave generators were running,
a point gage was rigidly mounted about 1 foot inside the tank wall adja=-
cent to the hydrant (Fig. 7). The rubble absorber in this area provided
good to excellent damping depending on the wave period used. With the
SWL intersecting the concrete slope at the previously marked reference,
the point gage was carefully adjusted to read some easily remembered value
which was used as a constant for the test season. A 2-inch feeder line
continuously added water to the basin during testing to offset the losses
from leakage and evaporation (Fig. 7).
The water level was checked and recorded three times during each run:
the start, midway, and near the end. However, readings were made more
frequently when conditions warranted.
4. Problems Encountered.
Three conditions which commonly caused difficulty in maintaining the
desired water level during test intervals were (a) improperly adjusted
feeder line valve, (b) change in water-main pressure when filling the
large wave tank, and (c) rain.
The practical tolerance in water level was +0.002 foot (40.6 milli-
meter). Factors affecting the establishment of this tolerance were (a) basin
18
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oscillations due to wind and waves, (b) visual error in taking gege read-
ings, and (c) variations in readings due to different observers. Wave-
generated oscillations were problems only with the long wave (3.75-second
period). Basin oscillations due to wind caused a problem perhaps once in
10 days. The wind effect was compensated by adjusting the water level until
the average of the maximum and minimum gage readings equaled the desired
reading.
5. Water Depth.
Although the water level at the gage was maintained to very strict
tolerances, the water depth is not considered that accurate because the
bottom elevation varied as much as 0.1 foot (3 centimeters) within the
6-foot tank and 0.05 foot (1.5 centimeters) within the 10-foot tank. A
contour map of a part of the 10-foot tank bottom derived from data col-
lected in December 1972 is shown in Figure 8. A similar drawing of the
6-foot tank bottom is shown in Figure 9.
IV. WAVE GENERATOR OPERATION
1. Experimental Setup.
Each test area was equipped with 1 of the 10 SPTB portable wave gener-
ators (Fig. 10). The generator was placed perpendicular to the three
walls and a sufficient distance from the ends of the walls to allow maxi-
mum bulkhead travel without striking the walls. A plate was attached
perpendicular to the generator bulkhead in a position to slide against the
center wall, thus completely separating the two tanks regardless of bulk-
head position. In the 6-foot tanks, plates were also attached perpendic-
ular to the bulkhead just inside the outside walls (Fig. 10), thus making
a closed tank wall regardless of the bulkhead position. The outside walls
of the 10-foot tank extended to the frame of the wave generator. There
was no gap between the end of the tank wall and the generator frame, but
a 0.15-foot (4.6 centimeters) gap was between the end of the generator
bulkhead and the generator frame (Fig. 11). This is important in the
analysis of results from experiment 72B-10.
2. System Components.
The generators were operated from a control room on the second floor
of a service building overlooking the SPTB. Remote control was achieved
by a system of electromechanical connections. The basic components of
this system, for each generator, consisted of:
(a) A 20- by 3.5-foot (6.10 by 1.07 meters) vertical bulk-
head.
(b) A shaft and crank mechanism which imparted approximate
sinusoidal motion to the bulkhead.
(c) A four-speed transmission connected to the crankshaft
by chain and sprockets. Change of gear ratios has rarely been
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Column Log Card
25) tor 59s | teste condi talons) ane form:
column 25 to 28: depth in form 02.33
column 29 to 33: stroke in form 04.70
columnysS4y corso) pexaodsan tommy Ole 92
40: state of analysis: A = analyzed
P = partly analyzed
N = not analyzed
41 to 49: reference to lab notebooks or other sources, such
as BK16 P5S
50 to 80: comments in following order (keep the a b c d order
and separate each kind of comments by * so that they
read a*b*c*d; there should be three *'s somewhere
between columns 50 and 80 for each roll):
a. type of data
b. duration of running time
c. Station of gages
d. other comments
b. Procedure for coding comments in card columns 50 to 80.
a. Type of data: These may be envelopes (E), bursts) (B),
fixed or stationary gages (F), miscella-
neous (M), or stands (S)
Ed andicatiedmenve lope:
E14 4) indacates, envelopes 1 toy:
F20 means fixed gage at station 20.
bey Runnanee tame: Give the times at start and end of roll
(in minutes). Zero minute is the time
“when first wave started on new beach, or
other starting point; e.g., a record
beginning after 3 minutes of wave action
on a new beach and lasting for 9 minutes
will be coded 3, 12M.
¢. Location: Indicate location of gage (in feet) from
stillwater level by STA.
STA 15, 40 means gage moving from 15 to 40.
STA 15, STA 40 or 15 40 means gage fixed at
stations 15 and 40.
d. Other Comments: Abbreviate as much as possible, but be con-
Sal SEEIME ¢
Note 1: Entries must be made in the above order. Each roll
code must have three asterisks somewhere in card columns
50 through 80. If an item is missing, skip a space.
54
Note 2: If comments cannot be completed by column 80, go to
next card, put 2 in column 1, repeat roll code in col-
umns 17 to 24, and continue comments beginning in column
50 of this second card. Up to 9 cards may be used for
one roll code to complete comments.
c. Handling of the wave record log.
After logging and coding the wave records, the cards must
be kept in an orderly fashion. The group of cards from each
study and each tank must be kept separately; e.g., the group of
cards from the secondary wave study in the 96-foot tank is kept
separate from the group of cards for the wave height variability
study in the 10-foot tank. Both of these are kept separate from
the group of cards from the wave height variability study in the
96-foot tank.
Placed in each group of cards are sets of reference cards.
Each set has five cards. The first two are blank, the format
of the second two are the same as the two cards attached, and
the fifth is blank. These reference sets are placed with 56
data cards between them throughout each group so that the refer-
ence set appears at the top of each page of the listing printout.
This means that cards cannot be added or deleted from the center
of a group and that after adding 56 data cards from the last
reference set, a new set must be added. When a listing is re-
quired, each group must be listed separately so that the refer-
ence sets will still appear at the top of each page of the
listing and cards can be added at the end of each group without
disturbing the other groups.
5. LEBS Photo Log.
In 1971, the example form in Figure A-5 was adopted for uniformity
and convenience in recording slide file data. This information was then
used when cataloging the slides.
6. Visual Observation Form.
In mid-August 1971, the form in Figure A-6 was adopted to record a
series of observations made at the end of each test run. These observa-
tions allowed the principal investigators to monitor the beach features
on a run-by-run basis for indications of equilibrium.
7. Scarp-Ridge Survey Form.
This form (Fig. A-7) was used to record the station and elevation of
particular beach features and was completed after each survey in 1971 and
1972. Unless the scarp and ridge points coincided with a half or full
station, these points were passed over in the regular survey.
35)
PEBS, PHOiOLOG ea ShiiB
LOCATION _6-foot Tank PHOTOGRAPHED
DATE _20 July 1972 BY Stafford
FRAME NO. SUBJECT TEST IME
SWL begin - if slope is damaged oF 0
7 Imnajeaaly ony NOhstope
21 Runup near end ob 10M
22 Breaker, end oll 10M
23 SWL, end oH = 10M
Other
18 Runup, initial (7th - 8th wave oM 208
19 Breaker oM 308
20 Splash-up from breaker oM 459
Sicopped ome ahiebrie som Auk
REMARKS:
Figure A-5. LEBS photo log.
56
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57
WAVE HEIGHT VARIABILITY
SCARP AND RIDGE
SUR VIE NGS
6-FOOT TANK SURVEY NO._1
SCARP
TOP BOTTOM
Station Elevation Station Elevation
RIDGE
TOP
Station Elevation
REMARKS:
Figure A-7. ‘Scarp-ridge survey form.
58
8. Current Study Form.
Current studies were not extensively attempted until 1972. The form
in Figure A-8 was used to plot the paths of the current markers.
9. VA Tube Analysis Chart (MRD Form 0640).
The sand-size analysis form (Fig. A-9) was used by the U.S. Army Engi-
neer Division, Missouri River, laboratory with the VA Tube to determine
the size distribution of 1972 sand samples.
10. BEB Sediment Analysis Form (C45129).
This is an old Beach Erosion Board (BEB) form (Fig. A-10) still used
to tabulate dry sieve analysis data. The form was used for the 1970-72
sand sample analysis when the dry sieve analysis was used.
11. Optical Mark Scanning Form (CERC Form 62-69).
This form (Fig. A-11) was used with the RSA in processing 1970 and
1971 sand samples.
59
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SIEVS ANALYSIS OF SAND eS
Weight of sample 70.50 a roms Ere Analyzed By ue LD Date USGL
Retained
on sieves
Cumulative
Per cont
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Nunber
STATISTICAL VéLUES SPECIFIC GRAVITY
Medianwdiametenmin ss aa meee spy! WEY A aN: Ose SCIEN a Ere
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Phi standard deviation Weight of sand ou... ... To
LARUE Kol) Mite Llaisicgusande-ivat ores ee Ere
Uniformity coefficient ... Wt. (volume) of water _. gre (cc.)
Abrams! finencss) modulus Volune of esand ye ee Coo
DR 25 0 ees hee Tenperature) Of, Vater). eee Le)
Sorting cocfficieat Absolute specific gravity .. gre/cce
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Conputedtiby ssomus enmienn Analyzed BY)... eeeeeeses _ Date) c kes
SHELL, CiAY, SILT & ORGANIC HATTER ANALYSIS
(ight Ch? CEB? Teikeyp Bio holy cant (a) )irctrdja eee
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Weight of test sanplo.. .. GFe Per cent (%) silt ..... te
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edit of sand pease an were Anslszodeby en cenelan Serre
Meeisiltyclayaceon ger meme inn Cte Reape) ke alr ee ene
WEB CH gsabl oe casiag
Figure A-10. BEB sediment analysis form.
62
GEOLOGICAL SAMPLE INFORMATION
TYPE 1 - MASTER IDENTIFICATION
FRENCE NUMBER ] CONSTCHITIVE NUMBER
Rey 290 RO S00 I BH QO 1Ky ) HNO BEANO 7080 bAGD SMO eeorANES 4OGO F000 2690 1900
TUNETIONAL OPERATIONS
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63
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APPENDIX B
FUNCTION OF WAVE GENERATOR COMPONENTS
Section IV gives the major components of the SPTB portable wave gen-
erators and the major function of each. This appendix describes the
procedure for starting the generators and component interaction.
1. The main a.c. drive motor was started. This caused rotation of
some of the differential gears, including those connected to the two d.c.
motor armatures. Since these gears were rotated at the same speed, there
was no output from the differential at this point.
2. The d.c. rectifier-amplifier was activated by slowly applying
voltage through a variable transformer or variac. As this was done, the
generator crank arms were observed to determine that the drive shaft of
the generator remained stationary, except for perhaps a quarter turn to
seek the "lock-in'' position. If the shaft rotated more than a quarter
turn, the variac was turned down until the rotation stopped. The two
thyratron tubes in the amplifier were then balanced by the balancing poten-
tiometer on top of the amplifier chassis. This was done by again raising
the voltage while turning the potentiometer clockwise a sufficient amount
to prevent rotation of the generator crankshaft. Expertise in this adjust-
ment was achieved largely by experience. The procedure was continued
until full voltage was reached.
3. The varidrive was started. This drive had been previously adjusted
to rotate at a speed which would cause the generator bulkhead to produce
the desired wave period. The speed reference shaft, which was connected
to the varidrive, and the generator crankshaft were compelled by electro-
servo action to rotate at fixed ratios determined by the gear selector
box in the wave generator. The rotation of the master resolver, connected
to the speed reference shaft, initiated a sequence of electrical events
between the two resolvers and the d.c. amplifier, and caused the two d.c.
motors to rotate at different speeds. Thus, differential output began,
imparting motion through the drive train to the crankshaft and bulkhead.
At the same instant that output rotation began, both the slave resolver
and d.c. tachometer became activated. As the varidrive and master resolver
accelerated, imbalance between the resolvers and the d.c. amplifier con-
tinued, and the speed difference of the two d.c. motors increased propor-
tionally with increased varidrive speed until the two resolvers and the
amplifier reached a steady-state or in-phase relationship. Provided the
generator load capability was not exceeded, the generator would continue
to operate "in step" with the control drive mechanism. To assist in
maintaining a steady-state condition under varying bulkhead loading, the
tachometer supplied a d.c. voltage to the thyratron tubes of the amplifier
which caused the tubes to supply more or less power as required. A ''phase-
shift" signal from a "leading" or "lagging" resolver had the same effect
on the tubes, but in a slightly different manner.
64
Two methods were used to attain the desired wave period by adjusting
the speed of the varidrive. The first method was to operate the complete
generator system with the basin drained, and adjust the speed of the vari-
drive until the generator bulkhead motion was set at the proper period.
The second method was used when the basin was filled. The transmission
gear settings gave a speed reference shaft-to-crankshaft ratio of 3 to l.
Therefore, the varidrive could be adjusted to the proper speed using the
speed reference shaft (60 revolutions per 38 seconds for the 1.90-second
period), while the generator blade could be left stationary by not turning
on the a.c. motor and amplifier. The first method was preferred because
the entire system could be checked out before starting the experiment.
65
APPENDIX C
AUTOMATED DATA REDUCTION OF REFLECTION COEFFICIENT
The steps in the automated data reduction of reflection coefficients
using programs WVHTCN and WVHTC2 are given below. The programs are
described in Section V.
ee Datgaktatzamion
The data on the wave records are digitized by CERDP, producing sets
of x and y points for each crest, trough, and event mark on each envelope.
These points are recorded on tape and then punched on cards.
2. WVHTCN Program.
The WHTCN input for each envelope consists of three sections of
cards: crests, troughs, and event marks. Each section begins with a
card containing the test label in columns 1 to 15 and ends with a card
containing 80 periods. At the front of the envelope data deck is a card
with the envelope identification number in columns 21 to 35. Any number
of wave envelopes may be run at one time. If an end-of-file is to be
written on the tape, the last card of the data deck must have ''ENDEND"
starting in column 21. Output for each envelope includes a printout of
the data for editing, a plot, and a tape for input to WHTC2.
3. Estimating Amplitude and Phase Angle of Sine Curve.
Before running WVHTC2, a first estimate of the amplitude and phase
angle for the best fit sine curve is determined from the WVHTCN plots.
A sine curve with the appropriate wavelength is drawn and placed over
the WVHTCN plot. The sine curve is adjusted until it fits the plotted
curve most closely. Then the points on the plotted curve coinciding with
the crests and troughs of the sine curve are measured and averaged to
determine the first estimate of the amplitude. The first estimate of the
phase angle (between -180° and +180°) is found by measuring from the
origin of the graph to the nearest point where the sine curve crosses the
positive or negative x-axis. This value divided by one-half the wavelength
of the sine curve and multiplied by wt gives the phase angle in radians.
4. WVHTC2 Program.
When running program WVHTC2, Al = amplitude (F5.2, col. 16); A2 = wave
moinlce (Ahi), (i552, Col, Zils AS =] pase apie (G5.25 Coll, 2))3 cine
XXX = the part of the envelope to be plotted (2F5.2, cols. 36 and 41).
The limits of the envelope to be fitted are given in inches with a scale
of 1 inch equals 5 feet. Time (F5.1, col. 31) is in hours and tenths of
an hour. All variables are right-justified when punched into the card.
The roll code number is punched in columns 1 to 11 and the envelope num-
ber is punched in column 13. One card is punched with this information
66
for each wave envelope. The number of envelopes to be plotted is punched
right-justified in columns 1 to 5 of another card and placed at the front
of the data check.
The plots generated by WVHTC2 give wave height deviation from the
local mean with the best fit sine curve superposed.
5. Determining Kp.
Kp is determined from the plot by dividing the amplitude of the sine
curve by Yyyg. Both values are written in the plot heading.
67
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