U5 Pirmy or Ceast Erg. Res-Cte, MR 77-7, %:! (AB- A043 $70) Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies VOLUME I _ Procedures Used in 10 Movable-Bed Experiments by Robert P. Stafford and Charles B. Chesnutt MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 77-7 JUNE 1977 AY HOTS fou MENT \ COLLECTION / Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER TE hae | ‘Kingman Building 2.03 Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060 eee or ean of ae of ee material shall ere ee ATTN: oes Division 5285 Port Royal Road |by other UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) READ INSTRUCTIONS REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE BEFORE COMPLETING FORM 1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NOJ| 3. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER MR 77-7 . TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED LABORATORY EFFECTS IN BEACH STUDIES Miscellaneous Report Volume I. Procedures Used in 10 Movable-Bed 6. PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER Experiments AU THOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s) Robert P. Stafford Charles B. Chesnutt PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS Department of the Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERRE-CP) Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 D31192 11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS 12. REPORT DATE Department of the Army June 1977 13. NUMBER OF PAGES (pt 2 15. SECURITY CLASS. (of this report) UNCLASSIFIED 15a. DECL ASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRADING SCHEDULE DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of this Report) Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abstract entered in Block 20, if different from Report) - SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES . KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number) Breakers Wave envelopes Coastal engineering Wave generators Currents Wave height variability Model studies Wave reflection Movable-bed experiments Wave tanks ABSTRACT (Continue am reverse side if necessary and identify by block number) Procedures developed and conditions existing during 10 experiments on Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS) are contained in this volume as a convenient reference to the analyses of LEBS data reported in separate volumes. This report also serves as a procedural manual for a common type of coastal engineering experiment, and it describes the wave generators used to produce data published in previous reports by the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC). Special attention is given to the problem of running Continued Re DD ‘ee 1473 ~—s EDITION OF 1 NOV 65 IS OBSOLETE BLL) Ue) UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered) movable-bed experiments in outdoor facilities. Recordkeeping, construction of initial profile, water level control, wave height measurement, analysis of wave envelopes, ripple effects on profile accuracy, temperature measurement, and observation of breakers and currents are also discussed. 2 UNCLASS IF IED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered) PREFACE Ten experiments were conducted at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) from 1970 to 1972 as part of an investigation of the Labora- tory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS), to relate wave height variability to wave reflection from a movable-bed profile in a wave tank. The inves- tigation also identified the effects of other laboratory constraints. This report (Vol. I), the first of a series of eight volumes, documents the procedures used in the 10 movable-bed laboratory experiments. It also serves as a guide for conducting realistic coastal engineering laboratory studies. Volumes II to VII are data reports for each experiment; Volume VIII is a final analysis report. The work was carried out under the CERC coastal processes program. This report was prepared by Robert P. Stafford, senior technician in charge of the experiments for the duration of the experimental program, and Charles B. Chesnutt, principal investigator from the beginning of the 1971 experiments through the completion of the program. Cyril J. Galvin, Jr., Chief, Coastal Processes Branch, was the principal investigator from the beginning of the experimental program through the planning of the 1971 experiments and provided general supervision thereafter. Comments on this publication are invited. Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 21 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, approved 7 November 1963. JOHN H. COUSINS Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director Il IV VI VII VIII CONTENTS CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) INTRODUCTION. GENERAL PROCEDURES. 1. Facilities. : 2. Experiment Schedule 3. Records . 4 4. Profile Comataane sore 5. Profile Protection. WATER LEVEL CONTROL . Necessity . : Ze coOce dure mt On Soucbilaishting Controlt 3. Procedure for Maintaining Control 4. Problems Encountered. 5. Water Depth . HH WAVE GENERATOR OPERATION. 1. Experimental Setup. 2. System Components 3. Wave Period Control 4. Wave Period . SRS ee 6 5. Problems Encountered in woneret ion : 6. Generator Stroke. WAVE HEIGHT DATA. Pe DatanCollectrones 2. Data Reduction. SURVEY DATA . 5 lee Dateae Colle ctatonar 2. Data Reduction. BREAKER AND RUNUP DATA. Ie Datag Colle ctaony: 2. Analysis of Breaker Davee, RIPPLE FORMATION DATA . SAND SAMPLES. ee Colle ctatone 2. Size Analysis . WATER TEMPERATURE AND CURRENT DATA. 1. Water Temperature . 2. Current Data. APPENDIX A RECORDKEEPING . B FUNCTION OF WAVE GENERATOR COMPONENTS . C AUTOMATED DATA REDUCTION OF REFLECTION COEFFICIENT. TABLES 1 Sumnary of experimental conditions. 2 LEBS profile surveying sequence . 3 Incident wave height for fixed-bed experiments 70X-06 and 7OX-10 . 4 Frequency of occurrence of ripple heights and resulting error . 5 Actual errors due to ripples on the special ripple survey . FIGURES 1 Plan view of the Shore Processes Test Basin 2 North section of Shore Processes Test Basin . 3 Seaward-looking view of 6-foot-wide wave tanks. 4 Seaward-looking view of 10-foot-wide wave tanks . 5 Definition sketch of coordinate system. 6 Valve and pipe system of the Shore Processes Test Basin . 7 Water level gage and hydrant. 8 Contour map of concrete bottom on sand side of 10-foot tank . 9 Contour map of concrete bottom on sand side of 6-foot tank. 10 Portable wave generator with wall closing plates. 11 Gap between the generator frame and end of the generator blade. 12 Eccentric setting on portable generator . CONTENTS-Continued XI SUMMARY . LITERATURE CITED. Page 14 1S 16 WH 18 CONTENTS FIGURES-Continued Idealized wave envelope . Lower Kp values and similar Kp trend from automated method in experiment 70X-06. Lower Kp values and similar Kp trend from automated method in experiment 70X-10. Correlation of manual and automated methods for determining Kp (experiment 70X-06). Correlation of manual and automated methods for determining Kp (experiment 70X-10). Comparison of results from three methods of determining sediment size distribution. Page 5) 35 36 Si 38 44 CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SI) units as follows: Multiply by To obtain inches 25.4. millimeters 2.54 centimeters square inches 6.452 square centimeters cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters feet 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meters square feet 0.0929 square meters cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters yards 0.9144. meters square yards ° 0.836 square meters cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters miles 1.6093 kilometers square miles 259.0 hectares knots 1.8532 Kilometers per hour acres 0.4047 hectares foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters millibars 1.0197 X 10°? kilograms per square centimeter ounces 28.35 grams pounds 453.6 grams 0.4536 kilograms ton, long 1.0160 metric tons ton, short 0.9072 metric Lons degrees (angle) 0.1745 radians Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelyins! Ties lunar Collatvia((C) suman Rec Rom MeN AIO EE CC rONea To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (PF — 32) + 273.15. bath bic, Ay get: A ead i" ene Se ee nh, a Sd iti apes eat iy Si ha ay OG a, rename mite ho Sail lle hy re Ge: wn ‘ Peay milan : cake ) i . cieabuun ae ae + ereoses siete AO mia stipetd ena. t wernaearset 8, ert. uid ede) aaedenaalid ” mt Le? | Ay aia srincl Th00.0. BAT are [rViee gee BRE nef PRE enpe td apes, ! SOP ® POL | atTEW TS ier cs ala enroll | Osea saat asin WeEOd nina ut “MA ; ‘ sista aay De RMT bee r “y) ii fj ‘elven et onal ic bewd LABORATORY EFFECTS IN BEACH STUDIES Volume I. Procedures Used in 10 Movable-Bed Experiments by Robert P. Stafford and Charles B. Chesnutt I. INTRODUCTION This report (a) documents procedures necessary to conduct meaningful coastal engineering movable-bed laboratory experiments and model studies; (b) describes common procedures used in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC) investigation of Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies (LEBS) to conserve space and avoid repetition in reports on LEBS experiments; (c) provides a detailed record of LEBS experimental conditions for future analysis involving presently unrecognized parameters (e.g., tank length was not considered a significant parameter and often was not reported before the LEBS experiments); and (d) provides background on the operation of CERC's portable wave generators which have been used in other investi- gations (Savage, 1959, 1962; Fairchild, 1970a, 1970b; Galvin and Stafford, MOONE A series of 10 experiments was conducted from 1970 to 1972 to define the amount of wave height variability due to wave reflection and variation in the reflection, and to measure the approach to "equilibrium" profiles for the wave and sediment conditions tested. The same sediment was used in all 10 experiments and the water depth and generated wave energy flux were held constant at 2.33 feet (0.71 meter) and 5.8 foot-pounds per second per foot (25.8 joules per second per meter), respectively. Of the 10 experiments, 5 were performed in a 6-foot-wide (1.8 meters) tank and 5 in a 10-foot-wide (3 meters) tank. These experiments were conducted in relatively long, narrow wave tanks with the wave approach direction normal to the initial shoreline, and were expected to be two-dimensional. However, three-dimensional effects were observed in the profile development, the reflection envelopes, and the current patterns. These effects will be discussed in later reports. Two experiments were conducted in 1970, one in each wave tank, with a wave height of 0.36 foot (0.11 meter), a wave period of 1.90 seconds, and an initial profile slope of 0.10. The initial test length (distance from the wave generator to the initial stillwater level (SWL) intercept) was 100 feet (30.5 meters) in the 6-foot tank, and 61.7 feet (18.8 meters) in the 10-foot tank. After 54 hours in the 6-foot tank and 62 hours in the 10-foot tank, the beach had eroded to the back of the tank. From then until the end of the experiments, sand was periodically added to the back- shore to maintain an adequate supply. The two experiments were repeated in 1971 under the same conditions, except that additional sand was added which shortened the initial test length by 7 feet (2.1 meters) in both tanks. Five experiments (two in the 6-foot tank and three in the 10-foot tank) were performed in 1972 with different wave energy densities but with the 1971 initial beach slope and initial test length. A sixth experiment was performed in 1972 in the 6-foot tank with a 0.05 initial beach slope and the 1971 wave energy density and initial test length. The test condi- tions are summarized in Table 1. The typical testing season was from May to December. This report is part of a series of 8 reports on the 10 experiments, to consist of an experimental procedures report, 6 data reports, and a final analysis report. Each of the six data reports will cover conditions as identified in Table 1. The data in these reports are primarily intended to: (a) Relate temporal and spatial wave height variability to reflection from the movable-bed profile, (b) measure the approach of the profile to an equilibrium condition, and (c) determine as quantitatively as possible the effect of other laboratory constraints (e.g., water temperature, tank length and width, and initial slope) on the resulting laboratory profile. This report documents the experimental procedures common to all the experiments, and alleviates the necessity of repeating these procedures in each of the six data reports. The data reports discuss the results from the experiments, and each report includes an appendix documenting the data collection and reduction procedures unique to the experiments. Three earlier reports on these experiments are also documented in this report. Chesnutt, et al. (1972) discussed the development of the profiles in experiments 70X-06, 70X-10, 71Y-06, and 71Y-10. Chesnutt and Galvin (1974) analyzed the relationship between reflection variability and profile development in the same four experiments. Chesnutt (1975) analyzed other laboratory effects observed in experiments 70X-06, 71Y-06, and 72D-06. II. GENERAL PROCEDURES Ig Paeatilsienes - The Shore Processes Test Basin (SPTB), located in Washington, D.C., was a large, 3-foot-deep, outdoor, concrete basin (Figs. 1 and 2). Within the basin, pairs of 6- and 10-foot-wide wave tanks were constructed of aluminum panels (Figs. 3 and 4). The movable-bed profile occupied the left side (facing seaward) of each pair of tanks, and a 0.10 concrete slope occupied the right side. The concrete side was used for control purposes. The tank walls supported a manually propelled instrument carriage which was used for data collection along the full length of the tanks (see Figs. 5 and 4). 2. Experiment Schedule. Each experiment was performed in a series of runs in either of two run sequences. The last column in Table 1 indicates the run sequence for each experiment; Table 2 indicates the cumulative test times at the end of 10 Table 1. Summary of experimental conditions. Experiment ! Initial test Initial Generated SUE aan length slope wave height? sequence (ft) (ft) i=) So So So 2 Cc Co LS S&S OS RP FP BH NY WN WA FF FY RF eB S © Ss So © So 2 2 © © fev} es} Yee) fes) les]) tes} pe pea pe aes od .0 od 0 wk 0) off off 0 IThe first two digits indicate year of experiment; the letter follow- ing the year indicates the planned separate reports (X, Y, A, B, C, and D). The last two digits indicate the tank used for the experi- ment (6- or 10-foot tank). Determined for given wave period and constant water depth of 2.33 feet, so that generated wave energy flux computed from linear theory had a constant value of 5.8 foot-pounds per second per foot. 3The cumulative time at the end of each run for the two surveying sequences is defined in Table 2. NOTE.--The same sediment was used in all 10 experiments; however, the initial average ds 9 (by dry sieve analysis) of quartz sand was 0.23 millimeter in 1971 and 0.22 millimeter in 1972. "(dldS) utseg 350], Sossoo01g eTOYS sy} JO MOTA UeTq ‘“[ saNsTy G2 0) Ge —_—_——SSSSS SS aaj ul aj09S SyuD] t}-¢ abois09 juawnsjsu| 10} 01aua9 S||OM OADM wnulwn|y aE Se} [So] Sei 2S SJ To ~~ buipiaig abo14109 tugwnj}su] uISDG 41a},uag UISDG U}JJON 12 ‘uIseg 1S9], sessod0Ig aL0YS FO UOTIDES YIION °Z 9In3sTty 13 Figure 3. Seaward-looking view of 6-foot-wide wave tanks. Figure 4. Seaward-looking view of 10-foot-wide wave tanks, with protective covers over subaerial beach. Table 2. LEBS profile surveying sequences. Sequence A End of Sequence B End of experiment experiment (hr :min) zmi (No. ) 70X-10 71Y-10 71Y-06 2Increments of 2. 3Increments of 5. 15 successive runs for the two different run sequences, and the duration of each experiment. During each run, test condition control data, including stillwater surface elevation and wave period, and independent variable data, including wave reflection measurements, breaker and runup observa- tions, and current data (in 1972) were collected. Profile surveys were made after each run. Water temperature was monitored twice daily (morning and evening). Less frequently, with the wave tanks drained, ripple forma- tions were photographed, surface sand samples were collected, and additional smaller grid surveys were made. The basin was drained slowly to minimize erosion damage to the ripples, which could be caused by ground water seepage or impoundment by ripples and bars. 3. Records. Since various types of data were collected, an organized procedure for recordkeeping was developed. The primary record was the laboratory note- book in which a daily log of test activity was maintained. To ensure that a complete, detailed account of all test events was obtained for later reduction and analysis, other data collection forms were necessary. An example and a brief description of the significant types of data collection forms are given in Appendix A. Standardization in data collection was achieved by either using regulation forms or designing new forms for spe- cific types of data. 4. Profile Construction. The sand beach was graded using the same procedure in each experiment to minimize the possible effects of unequal compaction. The sand, when shoveled into the tanks, was loosely packed and higher elevations than desired were established for the initial grading. The basin was completely filled and then drained, allowing the sand to compact before the slope was regraded to the exact elevations desired. The basin was then filled to the standard depth and after 24 hours the initial survey was made. The inter- section of the SWL with the initial sand slope at the center wall was established as the origin of the coordinate system (defined in Fig. 5). 5. Profile Protection. Every evening and during inclement weather, plywood covers were placed over the subaerial part of the profile to prevent damage from wind or rain (Fig. 4). A plastic sheet was placed over the plywood covers to prevent water from dripping through the gaps between the covers. This practice also allowed a run to be completed if it rained. When runs were not in progress, a plywood sheet was lowered into the water (without disturbing the profile) at the seaward end of the covers to prevent wind-generated waves from reach- ing the beach. Copper sulfate was added to the water weekly to retard the growth of algae, which can cement the sand bottom and retard sediment motion. Leaves frequently fell into the test area, and daily cleaning of the subaerial beach and water surface was necessary. 16 Toe of Original Slope WN Concrete +X eee ee Rat gns, of Generator Initial SWL Blade Movement Intercept —= Ranges = Plan View Elevations Profile View Figure 5. Definition sketch of coordinate system. III. WATER LEVEL CONTROL 1. Necessity. The SPTB plumbing system is shown in Figure 6. A constant water depth was maintained throughout a test to eliminate, or minimize, the effect of changing water depth on the (a) instrument carriage-to-water level dis- tance, (b) position of the shoreline, and (c) generated and reflected wave conditions. 2. Procedure for Establishing Control. In order that data be comparable in a given test area from 1 year to the next, water level criteria were established in 1970 according to cri- teria which had been used from the beginning of service of the particular test area within the SPTB. The north basin was filled to the approximate desired depth and then adjusted until the average of the depths along ranges 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9 at the toe of the concrete slope was 2.340 feet (the reference depth in earlier experiments in the 10-foot tanks). A 4-inch-long (10 centimeters) notch was made with a hammer and chisel at the east end of the concrete Slope at the SWL intercept. The reference depth in the 6-foot tank was established in a similar manner at 2.330 feet and a black line was drawn at the SWL intercept on the concrete slope. 3. Procedure for Maintaining Control. To monitor the water level while the wave generators were running, a point gage was rigidly mounted about 1 foot inside the tank wall adja=- cent to the hydrant (Fig. 7). The rubble absorber in this area provided good to excellent damping depending on the wave period used. With the SWL intersecting the concrete slope at the previously marked reference, the point gage was carefully adjusted to read some easily remembered value which was used as a constant for the test season. A 2-inch feeder line continuously added water to the basin during testing to offset the losses from leakage and evaporation (Fig. 7). The water level was checked and recorded three times during each run: the start, midway, and near the end. However, readings were made more frequently when conditions warranted. 4. Problems Encountered. Three conditions which commonly caused difficulty in maintaining the desired water level during test intervals were (a) improperly adjusted feeder line valve, (b) change in water-main pressure when filling the large wave tank, and (c) rain. The practical tolerance in water level was +0.002 foot (40.6 milli- meter). Factors affecting the establishment of this tolerance were (a) basin 18 “uTSeg 1SA] sessed0ZIg a10YyS oy} Fo waysXks odtd pue sATeA ‘9 9IN3BTY adid puns § BAJODA pazZlsO;OW ba QAJOA pudH ba ABDUIDIP JO AYDJU] come oem Ajuo aboulouqg) —Y——x— Ajuo aydjUu, eee e ace 0N3931 BA[DA {11} fo ——s— UF aanmM 26107 eee eee PH He He HM HM BO 0 8 Bee ee ee ee BO Foe ee ee ee ee eee eee eee eee AW (MEO AVES Od Buipying ad1Asas Pe@Ee2 @ee 2@eaauwq ulsog ysnos : ulsDg 4a4uay uISDG YJJON SS Hom Burpiaig : HOM + Burpiaig jaaoig JIOAJaSAY abo101S I's) ‘Beldliishoi } Water level gage and hydrant. PakeEee 7 sonnei sunninnemli seemed eames) 20 oscillations due to wind and waves, (b) visual error in taking gege read- ings, and (c) variations in readings due to different observers. Wave- generated oscillations were problems only with the long wave (3.75-second period). Basin oscillations due to wind caused a problem perhaps once in 10 days. The wind effect was compensated by adjusting the water level until the average of the maximum and minimum gage readings equaled the desired reading. 5. Water Depth. Although the water level at the gage was maintained to very strict tolerances, the water depth is not considered that accurate because the bottom elevation varied as much as 0.1 foot (3 centimeters) within the 6-foot tank and 0.05 foot (1.5 centimeters) within the 10-foot tank. A contour map of a part of the 10-foot tank bottom derived from data col- lected in December 1972 is shown in Figure 8. A similar drawing of the 6-foot tank bottom is shown in Figure 9. IV. WAVE GENERATOR OPERATION 1. Experimental Setup. Each test area was equipped with 1 of the 10 SPTB portable wave gener- ators (Fig. 10). The generator was placed perpendicular to the three walls and a sufficient distance from the ends of the walls to allow maxi- mum bulkhead travel without striking the walls. A plate was attached perpendicular to the generator bulkhead in a position to slide against the center wall, thus completely separating the two tanks regardless of bulk- head position. In the 6-foot tanks, plates were also attached perpendic- ular to the bulkhead just inside the outside walls (Fig. 10), thus making a closed tank wall regardless of the bulkhead position. The outside walls of the 10-foot tank extended to the frame of the wave generator. There was no gap between the end of the tank wall and the generator frame, but a 0.15-foot (4.6 centimeters) gap was between the end of the generator bulkhead and the generator frame (Fig. 11). This is important in the analysis of results from experiment 72B-10. 2. System Components. The generators were operated from a control room on the second floor of a service building overlooking the SPTB. Remote control was achieved by a system of electromechanical connections. The basic components of this system, for each generator, consisted of: (a) A 20- by 3.5-foot (6.10 by 1.07 meters) vertical bulk- head. (b) A shaft and crank mechanism which imparted approximate sinusoidal motion to the bulkhead. (c) A four-speed transmission connected to the crankshaft by chain and sprockets. Change of gear ratios has rarely been 2| *yue. 1OOF-9 FO OPTS pues UO WOZ}0q 9}30ZDU09 JO dew InoJU0D “6 9ANBTY “44: 10°O + [DAsayu) 4noyuod I]0M yuoL SUOIDIS 08 GL OL G9 09 GS Os Sb Ov ce oe T4 20.0 0c00 weoo S£00 22010 of00 ‘Ovo0 ¢£00 2£00 0$0 81400 S200 $100 1600) 0900 800 2v00} S100 8100 ig900 2900 4900 1900 ve 1¥00 2900 ww ° Vee oy ol ° ° ° Li) 10 ° -| 0

= == + So}s Sake: SEs (id) | See SES na 000 2000 3000 4000 (1000 s) = x? 100: 206 306 400 (100s) 800 #00 = 702: 30: 20: -30: -80: (10s) BO: 60: as “es SRS SSS eS (id) oe ose = 000 2000 3009 4000 (1000 s) = “0: 400 200 300 400 (100s) 600 800 = Xo 40: =20: 30: =80: (103) “50> =60: = aie SSR sks cate (Nd) atte eck = t000 2000 3000 4000 (1000 s) == xo 100: 200 300 400 (1003s) 600 600 = =O:= 1G= =20- -30: -#0: (10s) -60: -60: = 2022 24 29 2B (1) Be BE aan 1000 2600 3000 4009 (1000 ») = 360 400 (100s) 600 S00 = see 6-0: (10s) -60: -60: = so: :&: (18) ee -8:: eae = Figure A-2. 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Station of gages d. other comments b. Procedure for coding comments in card columns 50 to 80. a. Type of data: These may be envelopes (E), bursts) (B), fixed or stationary gages (F), miscella- neous (M), or stands (S) Ed andicatiedmenve lope: E14 4) indacates, envelopes 1 toy: F20 means fixed gage at station 20. bey Runnanee tame: Give the times at start and end of roll (in minutes). Zero minute is the time “when first wave started on new beach, or other starting point; e.g., a record beginning after 3 minutes of wave action on a new beach and lasting for 9 minutes will be coded 3, 12M. ¢. Location: Indicate location of gage (in feet) from stillwater level by STA. STA 15, 40 means gage moving from 15 to 40. STA 15, STA 40 or 15 40 means gage fixed at stations 15 and 40. d. Other Comments: Abbreviate as much as possible, but be con- Sal SEEIME ¢ Note 1: Entries must be made in the above order. Each roll code must have three asterisks somewhere in card columns 50 through 80. If an item is missing, skip a space. 54 Note 2: If comments cannot be completed by column 80, go to next card, put 2 in column 1, repeat roll code in col- umns 17 to 24, and continue comments beginning in column 50 of this second card. Up to 9 cards may be used for one roll code to complete comments. c. Handling of the wave record log. After logging and coding the wave records, the cards must be kept in an orderly fashion. The group of cards from each study and each tank must be kept separately; e.g., the group of cards from the secondary wave study in the 96-foot tank is kept separate from the group of cards for the wave height variability study in the 10-foot tank. Both of these are kept separate from the group of cards from the wave height variability study in the 96-foot tank. Placed in each group of cards are sets of reference cards. Each set has five cards. The first two are blank, the format of the second two are the same as the two cards attached, and the fifth is blank. These reference sets are placed with 56 data cards between them throughout each group so that the refer- ence set appears at the top of each page of the listing printout. This means that cards cannot be added or deleted from the center of a group and that after adding 56 data cards from the last reference set, a new set must be added. When a listing is re- quired, each group must be listed separately so that the refer- ence sets will still appear at the top of each page of the listing and cards can be added at the end of each group without disturbing the other groups. 5. LEBS Photo Log. In 1971, the example form in Figure A-5 was adopted for uniformity and convenience in recording slide file data. This information was then used when cataloging the slides. 6. Visual Observation Form. In mid-August 1971, the form in Figure A-6 was adopted to record a series of observations made at the end of each test run. These observa- tions allowed the principal investigators to monitor the beach features on a run-by-run basis for indications of equilibrium. 7. Scarp-Ridge Survey Form. This form (Fig. A-7) was used to record the station and elevation of particular beach features and was completed after each survey in 1971 and 1972. Unless the scarp and ridge points coincided with a half or full station, these points were passed over in the regular survey. 35) PEBS, PHOiOLOG ea ShiiB LOCATION _6-foot Tank PHOTOGRAPHED DATE _20 July 1972 BY Stafford FRAME NO. SUBJECT TEST IME SWL begin - if slope is damaged oF 0 7 Imnajeaaly ony NOhstope 21 Runup near end ob 10M 22 Breaker, end oll 10M 23 SWL, end oH = 10M Other 18 Runup, initial (7th - 8th wave oM 208 19 Breaker oM 308 20 Splash-up from breaker oM 459 Sicopped ome ahiebrie som Auk REMARKS: Figure A-5. LEBS photo log. 56 “WLOF UOTJBALASGO [eNSTA “9Q-YW JINBTy Builiids burbunig JUl0d ¥Da1g LAAS VY (S)4DQ ee oe ee =— (moi xeo@ “¢ (S)YBnos, ae» Su Saa’say 12A48sqO 2 aJOUS9JO4 $0 aSDQG -=m-==-—— nu oa uny Tt dips Gb Ove HUD 44-0 GN4931 suSqQ Uny JO pug SS SV les LO IS) ie = Gs (0) 2 v ) 3 Ol gl jal 9 > COM BSvGe Rs. = a geagee noes 7, SSE Nee Sshe Ree times Shee. SEER MELB BRE n MSs se vianaeee pase 0er ge 02 Cee eee SeR eos asc aes pee ned aoc see eeneueoee coool a, EEREEe SUNS Beene PeSSeeeoy ERS VESh ees sess e hese ear DERE eee aeons} G =< 10}D19Ua9 Ss eg | |) | Pesos SSE Bose ees see 2RMeGid Sess SSS hh se saeeae8 BEee ASSESS eae? SSeS eseee EREICE ERE SeS Seles Sareea, PSES ERIE sooesoSses) BESGE ESSE ESSE eeeseeees,, eee lls Ola “b> Sa 72 gee 0) é v 9 3 OO) ei wl 57 WAVE HEIGHT VARIABILITY SCARP AND RIDGE SUR VIE NGS 6-FOOT TANK SURVEY NO._1 SCARP TOP BOTTOM Station Elevation Station Elevation RIDGE TOP Station Elevation REMARKS: Figure A-7. ‘Scarp-ridge survey form. 58 8. Current Study Form. Current studies were not extensively attempted until 1972. The form in Figure A-8 was used to plot the paths of the current markers. 9. VA Tube Analysis Chart (MRD Form 0640). The sand-size analysis form (Fig. A-9) was used by the U.S. Army Engi- neer Division, Missouri River, laboratory with the VA Tube to determine the size distribution of 1972 sand samples. 10. BEB Sediment Analysis Form (C45129). This is an old Beach Erosion Board (BEB) form (Fig. A-10) still used to tabulate dry sieve analysis data. The form was used for the 1970-72 sand sample analysis when the dry sieve analysis was used. 11. Optical Mark Scanning Form (CERC Form 62-69). This form (Fig. A-11) was used with the RSA in processing 1970 and 1971 sand samples. 59 ‘wz0z Apnzs JueTInD “g-y 9INsTy pt 8+ Zl+ Q|+ Oct vet aw} Ou ‘SugO JO ‘ON i puabe7 MO|} |DJauab Spuodas ul aw!) ‘utu s{ ButAéejs 10338 ysnidn Woz paAoulal sem py GO"g *poaoulor pz+ pue ‘¢z+ ‘OZ+ ‘BI+ ‘9T+ 03 padrow ‘07+ 60-y Peddo1p sy qog AOD IMOW J9AIISGO *LO-U ‘00-Y SOTTINS ‘ysnadn ojur peaow ‘gt+ 60-y Peddosp py qog *putm Buoi3s‘ paAowor *60-u ‘TO-U SOTTINS s3snB purtn ‘ysnadn oqut poaow ‘9T+ T0-y Ppeddozp ¢y qog *poaowar *79-y ATIN3 ‘ysnidn ojuT parow ‘OT+ 60-Y peddorp zy qo yO I 99 dojs ‘ut sp ysnadn ut pedeqs ‘70-4 ATIN’ ‘des 0 LayBeIq 3B SO-¥ peddorp ty oq WSC 9 $4D}S > OWI] uNY (90g asn papaau s! aonds asow 41) sysoWway BIDJING PuUDS YUD] 400}-OC| “ee ee ee 210g AGNLS LNSYYNOD S841 60 “yreys stsApTeue aqn], VA (h4) S2l Sol SNOYDSIN NI YaL3BNVIG 11V4 "6-V oansTy +21370S80 SI 09 230 4o MOILICR a3 Bin? O90 04 om ‘SWUVAN3Y Ag IVNV sarwevg|svesed Guv> | is. ep | He a ove NOILVLS ySAld LYVHD SISATIVNVY VA 6| AnalysisiNoseesse eee @lid) samp! chino semen a ae eee Colliectecuibysewa seas pato/ 2 FEC 72 OAS So armas ye el BES SR od A Ee i Sa os ok ae et re ene Tees tica | Mamie eae coal eo reel ne 12 oi aoe Rena rks oe eae he che ea ae ee ee ee ee ee ba ee res Se PR Ea rem esc SIEVS ANALYSIS OF SAND eS Weight of sample 70.50 a roms Ere Analyzed By ue LD Date USGL Retained on sieves Cumulative Per cont Mesh Nunber STATISTICAL VéLUES SPECIFIC GRAVITY Medianwdiametenmin ss aa meee spy! WEY A aN: Ose SCIEN a Ere Geometric mean diam. _... d Wt. of flask & sand . Bapxe Phi standard deviation Weight of sand ou... ... To LARUE Kol) Mite Llaisicgusande-ivat ores ee Ere Uniformity coefficient ... Wt. (volume) of water _. gre (cc.) Abrams! finencss) modulus Volune of esand ye ee Coo DR 25 0 ees hee Tenperature) Of, Vater). eee Le) Sorting cocfficieat Absolute specific gravity .. gre/cce Sileving tine se CWO Ut a Dry specific gravity oo ue . Ere /Cce Conputedtiby ssomus enmienn Analyzed BY)... eeeeeeses _ Date) c kes SHELL, CiAY, SILT & ORGANIC HATTER ANALYSIS (ight Ch? CEB? Teikeyp Bio holy cant (a) )irctrdja eee \ sight ‘of filtor papar .... ... 6%e Per cont ( %) shall... Weight of test sanplo.. .. GFe Per cent (%) silt ..... te Wee b& s. after HCL ... Senet) Claya coer anicicact Cre eeeeeem es eens edit of sand pease an were Anslszodeby en cenelan Serre Meeisiltyclayaceon ger meme inn Cte Reape) ke alr ee ene WEB CH gsabl oe casiag Figure A-10. BEB sediment analysis form. 62 GEOLOGICAL SAMPLE INFORMATION TYPE 1 - MASTER IDENTIFICATION FRENCE NUMBER ] CONSTCHITIVE NUMBER Rey 290 RO S00 I BH QO 1Ky ) HNO BEANO 7080 bAGD SMO eeorANES 4OGO F000 2690 1900 TUNETIONAL OPERATIONS "hy Mn wy OD) An) gn m1) WW) 0} fo 800 700 BOO HOG er snes AO) SOO DOO WOE ms DESIGNATION § Tia es 5a 4 ge 2 i md) 90 80 19 60 bo uns) 240) 30 70 19 a) a NEY oe so GOS QO 20 G 0 9 ibe 7 5 CSSeeCLE ICS 2. 1 5 STATE ON TERRITONMAL DUSIGNATION | Ge Soran aeons oe eee Dea Ce z ny 7 ia 4 4 3 7) 1 0 990 BON 70 BOO HOO veupstos, 400° QAO JOS = raat : MARSDEN SQUARF YFAR ot VM) t 16) #0 7) 6n- i) (TENS. 40 te Paul 10 i) a) RQ . wee ah TK wNist 2-4 5} > 1 ‘h a) 70 60 BQ ites an 3) rab) 10 0 w ny oy) iQ (Aa) fn) TENS! = > 40) 30 av 10 Oi} FI ? i tetany 4 3 217s 1 9 ats c) x : 6 , NTS) == AZ: 3 » 1 0 MONTH I m" 16M OAM aM gM MLW MIDT MHWL RM Ore Te 16M oN aM dts MLW MIDT MMW BEAM GUS JUN MAY apa MAR Pee JAN ae ., x 2 BEC NOV OCT SEP AUG vIn HAND AH SHEP SCUBA DREDGE AV LCV PHB UKNT DAY \LOCAL STD TIML) HOUR (LOCAL STD TIME) “0 ab | " 8 ? 6 a) 8 7 6 5. 4 3 2: 1 0 | eae MeL LANE Ma hee. TEBE ETL iia ivi a mae) ee 3 Thane wae! ) 8B / h ay 4 3 2 1 0 \ ORIGINATOR'S (RZ HQY GPX FOV ENV DMU CLT BKS AJ RANSE d Bagels or CHUISE (SES TELC ATION POG AC IEADE TEC CUEING TERS MATE TWO MARIES PICEIORE COR TAL BOW Pe PUP TO COVE EPS MAI OME MAIDOIN TEED ARPEOORIATE Sontrintny COLUMN { i 1 = i Mt) 8 7 8 ny 4 3 1 ) 0 IRZ HQY GPX FOW ENV OMU CLT BKS AJ AVIGINA TORS STATION Gt SAMPLE IDENTIFICATION SOOTOIORN ERECTION fe COLUMN CPROWIDED ONE CHATAC TIN PER ROW STARTING WITH HOW NO 1 THEN MARK THE ROWS ACCORDING TO VME INSTRUCTIONS ANOVE a ee CORPS GOPPS CON OTHER on OIsT TRACT Cenc, SPONSORING INSTITUTION POSITIONAL ACCURACY (NAUTICAL MILES) Et a) ; R. 2 Oo? 002 ic LATITUDE LONGITUDE 7 a) £ 1) Oi if) " an ay ” W 0) rh) $0 70 #0 fil) me 40 20 20 10 0 DEGREES DFGREES A) sats A 3 2 1 0) 9 8 7 6 Bouin og 3 Bp 1 -0 my #3) 7) fa Nay 9 nn) fo) Ail) 10 0 mM) 80 70 6) HO nie AQ 30 Ait) 1 ) MINUTES MINUTES Q Rg ts i 5 4 3 z 1 9 " 8 ? 6 Be | oy 4 3 ° 1 0 a x ? 5 4 Wee 4 3 ? 24) Oo 9 R 7 6 5 Heim) 4 3 2 4 =() ga ay a? Oi. OR comnts nt 04 0? O41 0} no OR a? 06 05 cenoeroinsy 04 03 vp 04 (1 ac} =N W. t SAMPLE SOUNDING DEVICE ACCESSORY FRACTION OTHER CRART BOTH WIRE 6CHO 12) 3 990 «=©800 «©7700 §=600 = 800 "Nom ABO = 300 200100 T $0 80 70 60 GO Ns! AQ 30) 20 10 H M CNCR ORG AK MUO ooz ct SstT sD GRY 0 6 9 8 7 8 B97 UNS) 254% 3 ? 1 am) 0 0 DOMINANT FRACTION GNCRK ORG Ru MUD aoz cl BLT 50 GRV HDD RIM TUTTT NUM MMU MANU MN NNN MANN N NNN ON NNN NNO NNN NNN MMMM MMM MNNM NNN NM MMMM NNN MMMM NNN NN NNN NOW OO OOO OO (M.) TYPL OF ANALYSIS 9 8 ? 6 Ce Ue LS ok ? 1 onun MEGASCOPIC LAnOnATORY 09 O8 407 08 Of vumomonn 04 03 02 (oh) SAMPLING METHOD s Sr nears pe meneH a an ioe meen eM PHOTOGRAPHY chon ORY creo anae VENEE) OUICe ks IRN AROMOE DRPDaP CAR bam DE PH CORRECTION TO DATUM wre tora 2 Wor ADDITIONAL FORMS NOM ONLY natty goon Be m8) MU AW URN CERC FORM 62289 (TT AUG 69) ‘- YOO: eee FT 2 PS ATR AAA Pitd. by PennScan Forms Inv, Plula. Pa Figure A-11. Optical mark scanning form. 63 BONVHD OL HSIM NOA SHYYA T1¥ AT3L391dWO9 ASVYA - TIONSd UYAT WIVI1d 2 4SSANN VW HLIM SWUVA TI JNU APPENDIX B FUNCTION OF WAVE GENERATOR COMPONENTS Section IV gives the major components of the SPTB portable wave gen- erators and the major function of each. This appendix describes the procedure for starting the generators and component interaction. 1. The main a.c. drive motor was started. This caused rotation of some of the differential gears, including those connected to the two d.c. motor armatures. Since these gears were rotated at the same speed, there was no output from the differential at this point. 2. The d.c. rectifier-amplifier was activated by slowly applying voltage through a variable transformer or variac. As this was done, the generator crank arms were observed to determine that the drive shaft of the generator remained stationary, except for perhaps a quarter turn to seek the "lock-in'' position. If the shaft rotated more than a quarter turn, the variac was turned down until the rotation stopped. The two thyratron tubes in the amplifier were then balanced by the balancing poten- tiometer on top of the amplifier chassis. This was done by again raising the voltage while turning the potentiometer clockwise a sufficient amount to prevent rotation of the generator crankshaft. Expertise in this adjust- ment was achieved largely by experience. The procedure was continued until full voltage was reached. 3. The varidrive was started. This drive had been previously adjusted to rotate at a speed which would cause the generator bulkhead to produce the desired wave period. The speed reference shaft, which was connected to the varidrive, and the generator crankshaft were compelled by electro- servo action to rotate at fixed ratios determined by the gear selector box in the wave generator. The rotation of the master resolver, connected to the speed reference shaft, initiated a sequence of electrical events between the two resolvers and the d.c. amplifier, and caused the two d.c. motors to rotate at different speeds. Thus, differential output began, imparting motion through the drive train to the crankshaft and bulkhead. At the same instant that output rotation began, both the slave resolver and d.c. tachometer became activated. As the varidrive and master resolver accelerated, imbalance between the resolvers and the d.c. amplifier con- tinued, and the speed difference of the two d.c. motors increased propor- tionally with increased varidrive speed until the two resolvers and the amplifier reached a steady-state or in-phase relationship. Provided the generator load capability was not exceeded, the generator would continue to operate "in step" with the control drive mechanism. To assist in maintaining a steady-state condition under varying bulkhead loading, the tachometer supplied a d.c. voltage to the thyratron tubes of the amplifier which caused the tubes to supply more or less power as required. A ''phase- shift" signal from a "leading" or "lagging" resolver had the same effect on the tubes, but in a slightly different manner. 64 Two methods were used to attain the desired wave period by adjusting the speed of the varidrive. The first method was to operate the complete generator system with the basin drained, and adjust the speed of the vari- drive until the generator bulkhead motion was set at the proper period. The second method was used when the basin was filled. The transmission gear settings gave a speed reference shaft-to-crankshaft ratio of 3 to l. Therefore, the varidrive could be adjusted to the proper speed using the speed reference shaft (60 revolutions per 38 seconds for the 1.90-second period), while the generator blade could be left stationary by not turning on the a.c. motor and amplifier. The first method was preferred because the entire system could be checked out before starting the experiment. 65 APPENDIX C AUTOMATED DATA REDUCTION OF REFLECTION COEFFICIENT The steps in the automated data reduction of reflection coefficients using programs WVHTCN and WVHTC2 are given below. The programs are described in Section V. ee Datgaktatzamion The data on the wave records are digitized by CERDP, producing sets of x and y points for each crest, trough, and event mark on each envelope. These points are recorded on tape and then punched on cards. 2. WVHTCN Program. The WHTCN input for each envelope consists of three sections of cards: crests, troughs, and event marks. Each section begins with a card containing the test label in columns 1 to 15 and ends with a card containing 80 periods. At the front of the envelope data deck is a card with the envelope identification number in columns 21 to 35. Any number of wave envelopes may be run at one time. If an end-of-file is to be written on the tape, the last card of the data deck must have ''ENDEND" starting in column 21. Output for each envelope includes a printout of the data for editing, a plot, and a tape for input to WHTC2. 3. Estimating Amplitude and Phase Angle of Sine Curve. Before running WVHTC2, a first estimate of the amplitude and phase angle for the best fit sine curve is determined from the WVHTCN plots. A sine curve with the appropriate wavelength is drawn and placed over the WVHTCN plot. The sine curve is adjusted until it fits the plotted curve most closely. Then the points on the plotted curve coinciding with the crests and troughs of the sine curve are measured and averaged to determine the first estimate of the amplitude. The first estimate of the phase angle (between -180° and +180°) is found by measuring from the origin of the graph to the nearest point where the sine curve crosses the positive or negative x-axis. This value divided by one-half the wavelength of the sine curve and multiplied by wt gives the phase angle in radians. 4. WVHTC2 Program. When running program WVHTC2, Al = amplitude (F5.2, col. 16); A2 = wave moinlce (Ahi), (i552, Col, Zils AS =] pase apie (G5.25 Coll, 2))3 cine XXX = the part of the envelope to be plotted (2F5.2, cols. 36 and 41). The limits of the envelope to be fitted are given in inches with a scale of 1 inch equals 5 feet. Time (F5.1, col. 31) is in hours and tenths of an hour. All variables are right-justified when punched into the card. The roll code number is punched in columns 1 to 11 and the envelope num- ber is punched in column 13. One card is punched with this information 66 for each wave envelope. The number of envelopes to be plotted is punched right-justified in columns 1 to 5 of another card and placed at the front of the data check. The plots generated by WVHTC2 give wave height deviation from the local mean with the best fit sine curve superposed. 5. Determining Kp. Kp is determined from the plot by dividing the amplitude of the sine curve by Yyyg. 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