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THE

LADIES’ COMPANION

TO

THE FLOWER-GARDEN,

!
1. Tasconia Manicata

9 Rhododendron Gihatum

THE

LADIES’ COMPANION

TO

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

BEING
AN ALPHABETICAL ARRANGEMENT OF

ALL THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS USUALLY GROWN IN
GARDENS AND SHRUBBERIES ;

WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR CULTURE.

BY MRS. LOUDON.

Sebenth Lvition,

CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED, AND CORRECTED TO
THE FREER TIME.
BRARY

NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN
LONDON :
BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BOUVERIE STREET.

1858.

— SB453,2

TO

THE MEMORY OF THE LATE

MRS. LAWRENCE,

OF EALING PARK, MIDDLESEX,

ONE OF THE FIRST LADY-GARDENERS OF HER DAY,
This CHAork
IS DEDICATED BY HER SINCERE FRIEND,

THE AUTHOR.

a PREFACE.

es

It is a common subject of complaint among amateur florists,
that the directions for the culture of flowers given in works on

paratively little use to the possessors of small gardens.
Having felt this inconvenience myself, it occurred to me that
a dictionary of the English and botanic names of the most
popular flowers, with directions for their culture, would be
useful; and the result is the present volume. The botanic
names are accented, to show on which syllable the emphasis is
to be laid ; and every syllable must be pronounced, whether
accented or not. When the accent is acute, thus: 4, it signifies
that the consonant following the vowel is to be taken into the
syllable; and when the accent is grave, thus: 4, that the
vowel finishes the syllable. Thus Anthyllis is pronounced
An-thyl-lis, and armata, ar-ma-ta; while, as a proof that
every syllable is pronounced, Agave is called A-ga-vé, and
Amphicome, Am-fic-o-mé.

As this was the only one of my works in which any assist-
ance was given to me by my late deeply lamented husband, it
may be interesting to my readers to know, that he wrote the
whole of the articles on Borders, Climate, Conservative Walls,
Draining, Edgings, Fences, Flower Gardens, Gravel Walks,

Gardening, are scattered through so many different volumes, |
and mixed with so many other matters, as to be of com-

viii PREFACE.

Hotbeds, Levelling, Planting, Pleasure Grounds, Reserve
Ground, Rock-work, Seats, Shrubbery, Single Trees, Sowing
Seeds, Tallies, Tan, Walls, and Water, and part of several
other articles; besides having read over and revised the whole
of the first and second editions.

The Appendix to the work was suggested by Lord Murray,
of Edinburgh; to whom I am under very great obligations
for the valuable assistance he has rendered me, both by his
own letters and by those he has forwarded to me from a lady,
a friend of his, and from Mr. James Mac Nab, which have |

| been of great use to me in affording hints as to the subjects _

most likely to be useful in the Appendix.

Notwithstanding the large sale of the work (which has ex- |

ceeded twenty-five thousand copies,) it has never been stereo-
typed; but every new edition has been carefully revised, and
descriptions of new plants and of new discoveries in floriculture.
have been added, so as to bring the whole down completely to
the present day.

J. W. Lovpon.

BAYSWATER,
January 11th, 1858.

The Ladies’

Companion

TO

THE FLOWER

ABELIA.

BE‘LIA.— Caprifolidcee.—This
genus was discovered in China
as long back as 1818, by Dr. Abel,
in honour of whom it was named ;
but it was little known in Europe,
though several species were after-
wards discovered, till 1844, when
Mr. Fortune sent over plants of
Abélia rupéstris, which he found
growing among some rocks on the
Chamoo Hills. It is a pretty litile
plant, with fragrant flowers, some-
what resembling those of the sweet-
scented Daphne, but not remarkably
beautiful. Another species (A. wni-
jlora) is an evergreen shrub, with
whitish flowers, which appearin July.
It was introduced by Messrs. Stan-
dish and Noble, in 1851, and seems
hardy. There is another species of
the genus, which was introduced in
1842, under the name of Vesdlia
floribiémda, from Mexico, which has
long rose-coloured flowers, closely
resembling those of the honeysuckle,
to which, indeed, it is nearly allied,
but which are produced singly. The
plant itself is a pendulous shrub,
and it requires a warm greenhouse.
It grows freely, strikes readily from
cuttings, and flowers during the

greater part of the summer.

GARDEN.

ABUTILON.

A‘srus. — Leguminose. — The
Wild Liquorice (A. precatorius) is
a pretty climbing stove plant, which
requires a strong heat to throw it
into flower.
poisonous, are scarlet and black, and
are sometimes made into necklaces
for children.

AxsurILon.— Malvdcece.—There
isa very beautiful greenhouse plant
called Abdtilon stridtum, or Sida
picta, that deserves a place in every
collection. It is a native of Brazil,
and half-shrubby, with vine-like
leaves, and bell-shaped flowers of a
bright yellow, strongly veined with

The seeds, which are |

scarlet, which hang down on long |

slender stalks.
grown in a pot, a quarter filled with
broken potsherds to insure perfect
drainage, ina light sandy loam ; and
it should be trained to a slight frame ;
or it may be planted in the open air,
and trained against a wall or trellis,
as it is nearly hardy, and only re-
quires protection from frost. It is
sometimes also grown in a stove,
where it flowers abundantly, if

The plant should be |

allowed plenty of moisture, though —

the whole plant is much weaker than
when grown in a cooler temperature.

'There are several very beautiful

A

FF oad

B

ACACIA.

ACACIA.

species of this genus, some of which
are generally found in the nurseries,
under the name of Sida. One of the
handsomest kinds is called A batilon
vitifolium, or Sida vitifolia, from
its vine-shaped leaves. It isa noble-
looking shrub, growing about six feet

high, with a mass of large purplish or |

lilac flowers. It isa native of Chili,
and may be grown in the open ground,
with a slight protection ; or in a con-
servatory. The flowers are much
darker under glass, and sometimes
become nearly white when the plant
is grown in the openair. A. pwonie-
jléra, which has been only lately in-
troduced from Brazil, has its flowers
of a deep rose colour. The best soil
for it is a mixture of heath-mould and
silver sand. Another new species,
called Abdtilon insigne, has white
flowers veined with crimson. All
the Abutilons are subject to attacks
from the red spider, and require
frequent syringing to keep them in
health.

Aca‘cta.— Leguminose. — Most

persons understand by the word

Acacia, tall trees with pea-flowers,
which are natives of North America,
and quite hardy in the open air of
England. These trees, however, are
the Locust trees, or false Acacias, and
belong to the genus Robinia. The
true Acacias (which were placed in
the genus Mimosa by Linneus) are
what are called Wattle trees in
Australia, with flowers like balls or
spikes of down; and, as they require
protection from the frost in England,
they are generally treated, in this
country, as greenhouse shrubs. Above
three hundred species have been in-
troduced, but only about thirty are
in cultivation in British nurseries,
and nearly all these have been figured
in the botanical periodicals. By far
the greater part of the Acacias grown
in England are natives of New Hol-

| hardy ; but some are from the East
Indies and Arabia, and most of them
require a stove. Nearly all the
kinds are evergreen; and the Aus-
tralian species are very valuable in
greenhouses, because they are in
flower during winter. In the open
ground they flower in March, April,
May, andJune. The following kinds
are the most common of the Austra-
lian Acacias in British nurseries :—
A. armdta, a most useful plant for
windows and balconies, from its har-
diness, its compact, simple, dark-
green leaves, or phyllodia, and the
great abundance of its yellow ball-
like flowers; it requires, however,
frequent syringing of the leaves, as
it is very apt to be infested with in-
sects ; A. aldta, a curious species,
with winged stems; A. decipiens,
with small angularleaves; A.diffisa,
a dwarf plant with small flowers ;
A. hybrida, very fragrant; A. lon-
gifolia, with very long leaves, and
the flowers not in balls, but in long
close spikes; A. pubéscens,a very ele-
gant species with drooping branches,
bipinnate leaves, and the ball-like
flowers disposed in racemes ; A. ni-
gricans, with blackish-green foliage;
A. verticillata, with the leaves like
spines, and disposed in whorls; A.
lophantha, with bipinnate leaves,
and long spike-like whitish flowers ;
| A. dealbata, the A. affinis of some

botanists, remarkable for the delicacy
of its foliage, and the whitish bloom
| which covers its trunk and branches ;

A. spectdbilis, remarkable for the

immense number of its yellow balls

of flowers, which is nearly allied to

A. dealbata, but requires rather more

heat; and A. melanéxylon, the

Black Wood, or Black Wattle of the
| Australians, the dilated petioles or
phyllodia of which look like leaves,
with the real leaves, which are
bipinnate, attached to their extremi-

land, and most of these are nearly| ties. Of the other kinds of Acacia,

A
a

ACACIA. 3 ACARUS.

the hardiest are A. acanthocdrpa, a | A. lophantha, and A. melanéxylon,
native of Mexico, with pale pink | whichappeartobe the hardiest kinds.
flowers; and spiny pods ; and A./udz- | All these three species will generally
brissin, the Silk tree, a native of | spring up again from the root, when
Persia, and one of the most beautiful | killed down to the ground by frost ;
small trees that can be imagined ; the | and whenever this is the case with
flowers are like long silk tassels, and | any plants, itindicates that the plants
they vary from a pale pink or rose- | may be propagated by cuttings of the
colour, to a delicate lilac ; but they | roots, which is frequently done with
seldom attain perfection in the open | these Acacias. All the roots of the
air in England, for want of heat in our | Australian species of Acacia smell
summers, though they are extremely | like Garlic, and this smell is very
beautiful in Italy. Of the stove | perceptible on entering a room where
species, the handsomest are A. spe- | any of these plants are kept, if it has
ciésa, A. grandiflora, A. Houstdni, | been shut up for a few days. For
and A. seéndens ; and they should | this reason, when Acacias are kept
all be kept in the coolest and most | in a greenhouse adjoining the living-
airy partof the stove. A. véra, the | rooms of a house, care should be
Gum Arabic tree, A. Cdtechu, from | taken to give the house abundance
the unripe pods of which is made the | of ventilation; and this is also very
substance called Terra Japonica, and | conducive to the health of the plants.
A. Sénegal, the Gum Senegal tree, Aca‘cra.—See Rosr’nra and Mr-
are only interesting for their pro- | Mo'sa; as plants belonging to these
ducts. generaare often called Acacia, though
All the kinds of Acacia require to | they differ widely from the true
be grown in sandy loam, or in a mix- | Acacias both in the structure and
ture of sand, peat, and leaf-mould, | appearance of their flowers, and in
welldrained. Theyare generally pro- | their habit of growth.
pagated by imported seeds (though | Aca’nTHUS.—Acanthacew.—Per-
some of the species have ripened seed | ennial plants, natives of the warm
in this country); and the seeds are | parts of Europe, two of which, A.
sometimes two, er even three years | méllis and A. spindsus, deserve a
in the ground, before they come up. | place in every collection, from their
To hasten their vegetation, they may | stately appearance, and from the
be steeped in very hot water, and left | legend of their leaves having given
in the water for several days, or in | the first idea of the capital of the
oxalic acid and water, aud sometimes | Corinthian order of architecture. All
even boiled for a minute or two ; or | the kindsof Acanthusrequireasandy
a little bit may be cut or scraped off | soil, and a good deal of room; and
just at the scar on the seed; and| they are all readily increased by
when prepared by any of these modes, | division of the root, and by seeds.
they will generally come up in about | The situations most suitable for a
aweek or afortnight. Acacias may | large plant of Acanthus are near a
also be propagated by cuttings; but | stone seat on a lawn; at the foot of
as these are rather difficult to strike, | a block of stone introduced among
they should be put into a pot filled | rockwork ; or among classical ruins,
with pure white sand, covered closely | such as those at Virginia Water,
with a bell-glass, and then plunged | Windsor, &c.
intoa hot-bed. The tenderer species} A’carus.—A genus of small in-
may also be grafted on A. dealbata, | sects or mites. A’carus telarius, the

B 2

ACHILLEA.

+

ACHIMENES.

red spider, is one of the most trouble-
some of all insects to gardeners, par-
ticularly in the bark stove, as it breeds

_ in the bark. When first hatched,

| this little creature is scarcely per-
| ceptible, as itscolour is of a yellowish
_ green, and it spins its web on the

| under side of the leaves.

As it gets
older, it becomes of a brownish red.

_ It has eight legs, and belongs to the
| spider family; but itis provided with

a kind of proboscis or rostrum, with

| which it sucks the juices of theleaves

it lives upon, and soon withers them ;

_ thus spoiling both fruit and flowers,
as neither can be properly nourished

by the sap without the assistance of
the leaves. It is very difficult to
destroy this insect, as tobacco-smoke,
and the other remedies generally used
against it, appear to have very little
effect. Sprinkling with cold water
will sometimes destroy it ; but as the
insect is generally produced by keep-
ing the plants too hot, and not allow-
ing them sufficient air, the best
remedy appears to be to set all the
hothouse plants in the open ground
during the months of July and Au-
gust, plunging the pots in a bed of

_ dung, decayed leaves, or tan, and

well ventilating and cleaning the

houses while they are empty.

| without any visible change.

ACHILLE‘A. — Compésite.—The
plants belonging to this genus are
known under their English name of
Milfoil. Most of them have no great
beauty, but they are of very vigorous
growth, and will thrive in any soil or
situation, bearing either smoke or cold
They

_ are also suitable plants for balconies

or boxes, as they are not easily in-
jured either by too much watering,
or by being kept too dry. The most

_ ornamental of the vigorous-growing
| kinds are Achilléa tomentosa, the

woolly Milfoil, with yellow flowers,
and A. tanacetifolia, with red flowers.
Ofthe more delicate species, A. Cla-

vénne, the silvery-leaved Milfoil,
with large white flowers, is a very
pretty little plant for rockwork.
A, aired, which scarcely grows half
a foot high, and has rich yellow
flowers, which it produces in great
profusion, is very suitable for edgings

to beds and borders. All the species ©

growfreely in any soil thatistolerably
dry ; andtheyareall readily increased
by division of the root.

' AcuimeE'NES. — Scrophuldrine.
—The plants belonging to this genus
are, generally speaking, highly orna-
mental perennials, with very showy
flowers ; natives of South or Central
America, and require artificial heat
in Europe. They have tuberous

roots covered with scales, and funnel- ;

shaped flowers; that is, their flowers
have a very narrow tube, and a

broad spreading limb. A. argyro- |
stigma, however, has small insignifi- _

cant flowers, though it has ornamental

' leaves of a dark green, spotted with

white. Thefirstspecies knownin Bri-
tish gardens was first called Cyrilla
pulchélla, and afterwards Trevirana
coccinea. Itis a native of Jamaica,
and was introduced in 1778. In
1841, tubers of some other species of
the same genus were sent to England
from Guatemala, when it was dis-

covered that the Jamaica species had |
originally been called Achiménes by —
Dr. Patrick Browne, who first de- —

scribed it; and hence that name was
given to the genus.

The derivation |

of the name is unknown, but it is |

supposed to signify a plant that does
not like wintry weather.

The first ,

three of the following species were |
introduced by Mr. Hartweg, from |

Guatemala, in 1841 and 1842 :—A.
rosea, with flowers resembling those
of A. coccinea, but longer and of a
deep rose colour; A. longijlira, a
very handsome species, the flowers
of which have an exceedingly large
rich dark-blue limb, and a very

ACHIMENES.

~

+)

ACONITUM.

narrow pinkish tube, the back of the | sometimes will not separate, should

limb being also pinkish; and A.
pedunculdta, which has flowers with
a larger tube and smaller limb, than
any of the other species ; they are
orangeand scarlet, marked withrows
of crimson spots. A. grandiflora
was introduced in 1848: in shape
the flowers resemble those of A.

| longiflora, but the limb is a rich

purplish crimson: this plant is a
native of Mexico. A. multiflora is
a native of Brazil, introduced in
1840, and has flowers resembling in
shape thoseof A. pedunculata, but of
a most beautiful lilac, with a sort of
fringe round the margin of the limb ;
and A. hirsita, introduced from
Guatemala in 1843, has the flowers
of a deep rose-colour, with a yellow
mouth spotted with crimson, and in
shape between those of A. rosea
and A. pedunculata. A. patens was
first discovered by Mr. Hartweg, in
Mexico, in 1838 ; but unfortunately
none of the roots which he sent home
arrived in a living state. On his
return to Mexico, however, in 1845,

_ he was so fortunate as to discover the
_ plant again ; and living plants of it

reached England in the spring of
1846.

_ ornamental, resembling those of A.

longiflora, but being of a very dark
and rich purple, with a tinge of crim-
son ; and the edges of the petals being
somewhat undulated. The roots,

The flowers are extremely |

be covered about a quarterofaninch |
in depth, and then the potscontaining |

them should be placed in a melon or

cucumber pit, or any other structure |

where thereis a moderate bottom heat
andrather moist atmosphere.” The

young plants will begin to appear in |

about ten days, and when two inches

high they should be transplanted. |
All the species require the same |

treatment. When the stems die

down, which they do after flowering, |
the tubers must be kept quite dry |

during the winter and early spring.
About March or April, the tubers

should be repotted in light, rich soil, |

and the pots plunged ina hotbed.

When the plants begin to grow they |

should be removed to a warm green-
house, till their flower-buds are

formed ; after which, all the kinds, |

except A. coccinea, and A. peduncu-
lata, may be placed in a common
green-house, or in a living-room, to
flower. A. longifléra is by far the
handsomestand the hardiest ; and its
thickened roots are more like scaly
bulbs than tubers. A. pedunculata
and A. hirsita have the peculiarity
of forming little bulbs in the axils
of their leaves, particularly if kept
in a moist heat. The leaves and
flowers of all the species should be
keptasdry as possible, and the plants

| should never be watered over-head.

—For the culture of A. coccinea see

_ which resemble bundles of small | TRevrra‘na.

|

scales, Mr. Gordon observes, in the
Journal of the Horticultural Society,
should be separated, ‘‘at least all
those scales, which will part from
each other freely, and be, as it were,
sown on the surface of the soil in the
pots ; the potsshould be filled witha
light fibry heath-soil, anda small por-
tion of well-decayed dung should be
mixed with the finer portions of the

soil for top covering. The scales

|

and crown-ends of the rocts, which

Aconi‘tuM. — Ranunculacece. —
Monkshood and Wolfsbane.—Her-
baceous perennials, chiefly natives of

Kurope, but partly of North America |

and Japan. They are all hardy in
British gardens, and they are gene-
rally tall-growing handsome plants,
producing an abundance of dark-
blue, purple, or yellow flowers. They
will all grow freely in any common
gardensoil, andare readily increased
by division of the roots, which are

|
|
|
|
|
|
i
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
}
|
|

ADENOPHORA. 6

generally tuberous, or by seeds. All
the speciesare more or less poisonous,
the poison being strongestinthe root.
Like all plants which grow with tall
erect stems, and producetheir flowers
in terminal spikes, they are only suit-
able for growing in borders in large
gardens, or for clumps on a lawn.
The species may be divided into two
kinds : those with the helmet like a
monk’s cowl, whicharecalled Monks-
hood; and those which have an
elongated conical helmet, and are
called Wolfsbane. Of this first di-
vision the handsomest species are A.
Napéllus, the common Monkshood,
with purple flowers; and A. A’n-
thora, the Yellow Monkshood.
the Wolfsbanethe handsomestspecies
are A. barbatum, with pale-yellow
flowers, and A. australe, a beautiful
plant with dark purple flowers,
tipped with green, a native of the
Carpathian mountains.
ACONITE, WINTER. —See Era’n-

THIS.

» ACROcLI‘NUM.— Composite. —A
native of South West Australia,

forming in this country a half hardy |

annual, with bright rose-colour,
everlasting flowers, and pale-green
stems and leaves.
A’/cynos.—Labiate.—A peren- |
nial plant somewhat resembling
Thyme. A. vulgaris, the only orna-
mental species, is anative of Europe,

ECIDIUM.

| natives of Siberia, andare propagated

by division of the root.

Avr’smia Dec.—Leguminise.—
Herbaceous plants and shrubs with
yellow pea-like flowers, growing freely
in the open air in any common soil.

ADHATO'DA. —Acdnthacee. — A
Brazilian plant, with striking,
showy flowers, some of the petals
of which are of a rich dark-purple,
and others of a pure white. Intro-
duced in 1855.

Apia’ntUM. — Cryptogamia. —

| Maidenhair, a kind of Fern.

| AptLu‘mia. — Pumariacee. — A
climbing biennial, with pinkish
flowers like those of the Fumitory.

Of | It is a nativeof North America, and

will grow in any common soil. The
| seeds should be sown in autumn,
and the young plants kept in pots
in a greenhouse or frame, for plant-
ing out in spring. Thus treated,
and trained to a trellis or wire
frame, they will begin to flower in
June, and will continue producing
abundance of flowers during the
| whole summer.

| Apo‘nis. — Ranunculacee. —
Herbaceous plants with showy
flowers, natives of Europe, of easy
| culture in any common soil. The
| most ornamental species are A. ver-
nalis, the spring-flowering Adonis,
'a perennial with bright-yellow
| flowers, which is quite hardy, and

not above six inches high, and of |is easily increased by division of

easy culture in any common soil.
Apam’s NEEDLE.—See Yu’cca.

‘the root; and A. autumndlis, the
'common annual Flés Adonis, or

ADENOCA’RPUS.—Leguminise.— | Pheasant’s Eye, with dark crimson

A genusof hardy shrubs, with yellow |
pea-flowers, resembling those of the |
Broom. These plants were formerly |
included in Cy’risus.
ApENo/PHORA.—Campanulacee. |
—Perennial plants with blue bell- |
shaped flowers, resembling the Cam- |

‘flowers. All the species will grow
in any common garden-soil; and
| the annual kinds should be sown in
_ autumn, as they will stand the winter

| in the open air—or in February or
March, as they are a long time before

‘they come up. The seeds will keep

panulas. They require to be planted | good several years.

in rich but light soil, and are easily |
killed by much moisture. They are

JAkKcrpiumM.—A kind of Fangus

| which is sometimes found on the

ZESCULUS. if AGAPANTHUS.

leaves of pear-trees, and other plants | Arrican Liny.—See Acapa’N-

belonging to the genus Pyrus. THUS.

fio\ntum Webb. — Crassuldcee. ArRicaN MARIGOLD, —See Ta-
—This is a new genus formed out of | gr‘rEs.
Sempervivum, of which S. arboreum| Acapa’NTHUS. — Hemerocalli-

is taken for the type. Some of the | dacew.—The blue African Lily, A.
species are very ornamental. They | wmbelldtus, is a noble plant, with a
are all greenhouse plants, which re- | bulbous root, somewhat resembling
quire a warm, dry situation in| that of a leek; and it retains its
summer, and a cool place with very | leaves all the winter. There is a
little water in winter ; andthey grow | variety with striped leaves. A.

Se |

best in wide, shallow pots, well | dlbidus has white flowers, but it |

drained with potsherds, and filled | does not differ from the commonkind

with a mixture of loam and old | in any other respect. A. méximus |

mortar, covered with fine sand. has a very tall stem, and narrow
AE’RIDES. — Orchiddcece.—Siove | leaves, and the flowers, which are of

epiphytes, natives of the East Indies, | an extremely dark blue, with a |

with whitish flowers that have the | white stripe, form rather a small
odour of the Tuberose. They should | head in proportion to thegreat length
begrown on moss,and suspended from | of the stem. Both these last-named
the rafters of a very damp hothouse. | plants are, however, probably only

/ascHYNA’NTHUS Jack.; Iwn-| varieties of A. wmbellatus. The
CARVI'LLEA Roxb.—Cyrtandracee. | following directions are given in the
— Stove parasitical shrubs, growing | Botanical Register for February,
four or fivefeet high, nativesof India, | 1843, for the cultivation of this
where they are found in moist, shady | gnus: — ‘‘About the end of
woods, hanging from tree to tree,and | February, the plants should be
producing large bunches of their| fresh potted, in a mixture of rich
showy orange-scarlet flowers. Most | loam and welldecomposed leaf mould,
of the species are very ornamental, | or well-rotted dung, and placed in
but 4. purpurdscens is much less|a warm part of the greenhouse,
so than any of the rest. In England | where they will soon begin to
they should be grown in moss, or in | grow freely. They will then require
vegetable mouldand sand, and they | to be abundantly supplied with
should be allowed abundance of heat | water, and about the end of May
and moisture. should be removed to the open air,

JR’/scuLus. — #sculacee.—Most | if it is intended that they should
of the Horse-chesnuts are too large | flower out of doors. The pots should
trees to be admitted into a work like | be placed ina sheltered situation, in
the present ; but the red-flowered | large pans filled with water, so that
Horse-chesnut (4. rubictinda) and | one-third of the pots are immersed ;
its varieties are seldom above} or the pots may be placed by the side
twelve or fifteen feet high, and they | of a pond, and treated as subaquatiec,
are, therefore, very suitable for a | in which situation they will flower
shrubbery. The most beautiful | freely during the summer. If they
variety is Whitley's Scarlet. These | are retained inthe greenhouse during
trees should be grown in a sheltered | the flowering season, they must have
situation, or they will not flower | plenty of air and water, or they will
well. For the yellow-flowered Horse- | become weak, and lose that beautiful
chesnut, see Pa‘v1a. deep-blue colour, which usually dis-

AGAVE.

AGROSTEMMA.

| tinguishes them. When they have | been formerly kept in tubs, in the
' done flowering in autumn, they should
| be gradually dried, by withholding
_ water ; and finally, when the soil in
| the pots has become tolerably dry,

and there is danger of frost, the pots
should be removed for the winter,
either into a cold pit, or under the
stage of the greenhouse ; or they may
be placed in a cellar : but then they
must be kept very dry, and should
be removed from such a situation as
soon as they show signs of vegetation.

_ These plants will also force freely,
| if well supplied with moisture and

bottom-heat ; but in that case the
flowers become very pale. They are
easily increased by dividing the old
plant when in a dormant state. They

| seldom require shifting when once
' established, if supplied once or twice

during the growing season with a
little liquid manure.” When pro-
perly treated, and kept in a green-
house, or living-room, or under a
verandah, this plant will frequently
send up a flower-stalk above three
feet high, crowned with twenty or
thirty heads of flowers, which will
come into blossom in succession ;
and when grown in the open air, it
forms a noble ornament to an archi-
tectural terrace, or a fine object on a
lawn. When theroots have become
so large as to require a pot of incon-
venient size (for the roots must have
plenty of pot-room), it is said that
the bulb may be divided, and the
strongest of the fibrous roots cut
off, without injuring the plant, or
preventing it from flowering.
Aca’ricus. —A genus of Fungi,

_ of the Mushroom kind, but gene-

rally poisonous.

Aca've.—A maryllidacee.—Suc-
culent plants from South America,
of which one species, the American

orangery or in some other house
during winter, and set out during
summer. The large leaves of the
Agave render it by no means adapted
for a small greenhouse; but as it
only requires protection from frost,

'it may be kept during the winter in

a shed where there is very littlelight,
till summer, when it may be set out
on a lawn or terrace, giving it very
little water while in a state of repose.
This mode of treatment may be ap-
plied to all succulent plants that are
dormant during our winters. The
American Aloe requires a rich
loamy soil, and is increased by
suckers. It was formerly supposed
that it produced its candelabra-like
blossoms only once in a hundred
years ; but this is a vulgar error, as
it sometimes produces its flowers, in
hot countries, in ten years — the
period varying to twenty, fifty, or
even seventy years according to the
climate, and the care bestowed on
the plant by the gardener. The
flower-stem is frequently forty feet
high, and the plant dies as soon as it
has done flowering. The Aloe isa
native of Mexico, and the other
tropical parts of America; but it
has been almost naturalised in the
south of Europe. In its native
country a strong spirit is distilled
from its sap ; the fibres of its leaves
areused for thread, and the feculent
matter contained in its stem, for
soap; an excellent starch is also
made from it.
| Acr/RatuM. — Composite. —
Mexican annuals, with curious heads
of small pale-blue flowers. The
seeds should be sown in a warm
border, in a light soil, in April,
or on a hot-bed in February.
AcrostE’/mMa.— Caryophyllacee.

Aloe, A. americana, and a varie- |The Rose Campion.—This genus,
gated-leaved variety of it, are old in- | and that of Lychnis, have been so
habitants of British gardens ; having | strangely mixed up together, that itis

| geana, and the pretty little annual |

ALISMA,

difficult to know what plants belong

to each. The showy greenhouse
plant generally called Lychnis Bun-

L. Leta are now removed to Agro-
stemma ; while, on the contrary, A.
Ceil-Rosa and A. Flés Jovis have

been taken from Agrostemma and |

given to Lychnis, The Corn-cockle,
A. Githago, is also now Githago
segetum ; but the Rose Campion is
still called Agrostémma coronaria.

_ All the species of the genus, both
_ annuals and perennials, are quite
_ hardy, and will grow in any com-

mon garden-soil.

Aiz PxLants. —See ORcHIDEOUS
EPrIpHytes.

A’sucA. —Labidte.—The Bugle.
—Well-known plants, generally with
dark-blue flowers, always growing
in dry soil, and increased by division
of the roots. A. Chame’pitys, the
Ground-pine, has yellow flowers.

AKE‘BIA.— A slender evergeen
shrub, a native of China, brought
to England by Mr. Fortune. It is
remarkable for having two distinct
kinds of flowers on the same plant,
differing in size, shape, and colour.

ALATE’RNUS.—See Rua’/MNUvs.

ALBU'CA.—A sphodélee.—Pretty
Cape bulbs, with white flowers,
resembling the Star of Bethlehem.
For culture, see ORNITHO’GALUM.

ALCHEMI'LLA. — Rosdcee. —
Lady's Mantle-—Hardy herbaceous
plants, chiefly natives of the middle
of Europe : of the easiest culture.
The most ornamental species is A.
alpina, which seldom exceeds half
a foot in height, with leaves of a deep
green above, of a silky whiteness
underneath, and with greenish-yellow
flowers. Itis admirably adapted for
rockwork, or growing in pots.

ALEXANDRIAN LAUREL. — See
Rv’scus.

ALI’sMA.— Plantaginee.—A ge-
nus of aquatic plants, with orna-

ALLIUM.

mental flowers, several of which
are natives of Great Britain.

ALKANE?.—The root of Dyers’
Bugloss (Anchusa tinctoria Lin.),
| which has the property of giving a
fine red colour to oil, wax, and
other similar substances.

ALKEKE NGI.—See Nica’npRA.

' convolvulus-shaped flowers. A. ca-

». ALLAMA’NDA. — Apocyndcee.— |
Stove shrubs, with splendid yellow |

| thartica, a native of Guiana, aclimb-

| ing plant, isthe most commonspecies.
It requires a lightrich soil, kept fre-
| quently watered ; andit is increased
| by cuttings. Where a conservatory
adjoins an orchideous house, or stove,
Pree Allamanda and other splendid
| stove-climbers may be planted in the
| hothouse and trained through a hole

more generally seen, than in the
damp hot air necessary for the roots.

A. Schéttti,.a native of Brazil, intro- |

in the back wall into the conserva- |
| tory, in the cool air of which the |
flowers will be more brilliant, and |

duced in 1847, and A. neriifolia |

differ from most of the other species
of the genus in being erect evergreen
shrubs, flowering when about two
feet high.

A’‘LLIUM. — Asphodélee. —The
Garlic and Onion tribe, of which
there are above a hundred and fifty

| species in cultivation, natives of |

| Europe and America, some few of |

/which are considered ornamental,
and one, A. oddrwm, is sweet-scented.
Among the ornamental speciesare A.
Moly, with yellow flowers ; A. des-
céndens, with dark purple flowers ;
A. incarnatum with red flowers ; and
A. Cowani, A. Chamemdly and A.
neapolitanum, with white flowers.
All the species thrive in any com-
mon soil, and are increased abun-
dantly by offsets from the bulbs.
In a garden devoted exclusively to
bulbs, the Alliums form a large and
important group, from the great

sei gl i et

ALOE.

10

ALOE.

variety and different colours of the |and more manageable size, and
flowers ; but they differ from almost | makes them less easily affected by
all other ornamental plants, as they | changes of the temperature, and of

do not admit of being gathered and | heat and dryness.

put into nosegays, on account of
their unpleasant smell.
ALLosu'Rvs. —Filices.—A genus
of ferns, with short broad leaves,
natives of Mexico, and New Gran-
ada. <A. flexuosus is a climbing
plant, A. corddtus is nearly hardy.
ALLSPICE-TREE.— See Catyca’N-

THUS.
ALMOoND.—See Amy’GDALUS.
A’tor. — Hemerocallidacee. —

The name of Aloe is so frequently
applied in conversation to the
American Aloe, or Agave, that many
persons are not aware that the true
Aloe is not only quite a different
genus, but belongs to a different
natural order; the American Aloe
being one of the Amaryllis tribe, and
the true Aloe one of the Day-lily tribe.
The qualities of the two plants are
also essentially different ; the Ame-
rican Aloe abounds in starchy
nourishing matter, while every part
of the true Aloe is a drastic purga-
tive, which is poisonous if taken in
excess. The true Aloe also flowers
every year, and the flowers are tube-
shaped, and produced on a spike ;
while each plant of the American
Aloe flowers but once, sending up an
enormous flower-stem, with cande-
labra-like branches and cup-shaped
flowers. The true Aloes are suc-
culent plants, natives of the Cape
of Good Hope ; and they grow best
in this country in greenhouses, or
rooms, the pots being well drained,
and the soil composed of a sandy
loam, mixed with a little lime-rub-
bish or gravel. To this, when the
plants are wanted to attain a large
size, may be added a little leaf-
mould. When grown in rooms, the
poor soil is, however, preferable, as
it keeps the plants of a smaller

The colours of
the flowers will also be richer
when the plants are grown in poor
soil. The drug called Aloesis made
principally from the pulp of the
fleshy leaf of the A. socotrina, the
flowers of which are red, tipped with
green; but it is also made from
several other species. A. vulgaris,
sometimes called A. barbadénsis,
has orange-yellow flowers; and the
Partridge-breast Aloe, A. variegata,
has variegated leaves. All the kinds
should be frequently watered when
they are in a growing state and
about to flower ; but the water that
runs through the mould in the pot
should always be poured directly out
of the saucer ; as, if water be allowed
to remain in a stagnant state about
the roots, theleaves will rot and drop
off. It is to prevent water lodging
round the crown of the plant, which
would produce the same effect, that
gravel or lime-rubbish should always
be mixed with the soil. When the
plants have done flowering, water
should be given to them very spar-
ingly, — not oftener than once a
month ; and they should be kept in
a dry, warm situation, where they
will have plenty of light ; as in this
respect also they differ from the
Agave, which may be kept during
the winter almost in darkness. The
Aloe is generally propagated by
offsets, or suckers; but in some
instances it may be increased by
stripping off a leaf, letting it dry for
a day ortwo, andafterwards planting
it quite shallow in a pot of sandy.
soil, and giving it very little water.
In the course of a few months, one

or several buds will be found formed |

at the base of the leaf, and roots
being thrown down from the same
point, a new plant will be produced.

——— vhvaX—X—Orr

ALOYSIA.

Ato'na. — Nolandcee. — Very
beautiful half-hardy shrubs, natives
of Chili and Peru. A. caléstis
resembles, in its leaves and general
appearance, a soft-leaved Heath,
but its flowers are like those of
Nolana atriplicifilia, that is,
closely resembling those of the minor
Convolvulus, but with less white in
them.

Atonso‘'a. — Scrophulérine. —
The Mask-flower.—The species are
low under-shrubs, or herbaceous
plants, natives of Peru; and two
of them, A. incisifolia (R. et P.)
and A. linearis (H. K.) formerly
known as Célsia, afterwards as
Hemimeris wrticifolia, &c., are
very ornamental, either in the
greenhouse, or grown as annuals
in the open border during summer.
They thrive well in any light, rich
soil, and are readily increased by
seeds or cuttings. They are very
desirable for flower-gardens, on ac-
count of the brilliant scarlet of their
flowers ; and where there is no green-
house, the plants should be raised
from seeds, sown on a hotbed in
February, or struck from cuttings
early in spring, and brought forward
ina frame or pit, and turned out into
the open airin May. When kept in
a greenhouse, they should always be
set out in the open air when the
other plants are fumigated, as they
are easily killed by tobacco-smoke, or
any other strongly-smelling vapour.
They are also very apt to rot, or damp
off, as it is called, at the collar, if
they have too much moisture, though
the roots soon become dried up and
withered if they have too little.
Though the stems of some of the
species are quite woody at the base,
they seldom live, even with the
greatest care, longer than two or
three years.

Atoy’sta. — Verbenacee. — The
only species of this genus known in

11

ALSINE.

Britain is A. ctiriodéra, a native of
South America, formerly called Ver-
béna triphylla, or the Lemon-scented
Verbena. It is a half-hardy shrub,
with panicles of small pinkish-white
flowers, and very fragrant leaves,
which fall off in the winter. It re-
quires a rich but light soil, well
drained ; and, when grown in pots, it
should never have water kept in the
saucer. In winter, after its leaves
have dropped, it should be kept
nearly dry till the buds begin to
swell, when it should be watered
frequently and abundantly ; but the
water should never be suffered to
remain in a stagnant state about
the roots. It is easily propagated
by cuttings, and only requires to be
protected from severe frosts.
ALPINE Piants.—Dwarf Plants,
natives of high mountains, and usu-

ally with bright-coloured flowers; |

generally employed for ornamental
rockwork, and which, as they are
covered with snow during winter in
their native countries, require pro-
tection from severe frosts.
ALPI’N1IA.—Scitaminec. — A ge-
nus of reed-like plants, natives of
the East Indies and South America,
with large and showy white or pink
flowers, of which one or two species
merit a place in select collections of
stove-plants. A. niitans is one of

the most common, and when grown ©

in rich sandy soil, ina moist heat,

with plenty of room, it will flower |

freely. Like most of the Scitami-
neous genera, there isa considerable
degree of sameness in all the species,
both in flowers and fruit, and there-
fore one kind is enough for a small
collection.

ALsI'NE. — Caryophyllacee. —
This genus was founded on the
Chickweed (Alsine média), and it
contained four or five weedy-looking
species ; but these have now been
distributed among other genera, and

even the Chivksweed is now called |

ALSTR@MERTA.

| Stellaria media. One of the sections

| trained over

of Caryophyllaceze is, however, still
called Alsines, and it includes those
plants which have the sepals of the
calyx distinct, while those that have
their sepals united into a tube be-
long to Sileneze.

ALSTR@ME'RIA. — Amaryllida-
cew.—This is a genus of tuberous-
rooted plants, with beautiful flowers,
natives of South America, and capa-
ble of being grown to a high degree
of perfection in British gardens, in
the stove, greenhouse, or open air,
according to the species. The soil
which suits all the Alstrcemerias is
a mixture of sandy loam and leaf-
mould, or well-rotted dung. Of all
the stove species, A. Ligtu, with
white and scarlet flowers, is the most
difficult to flower; but by giving it
abundance of water during summer,
and a strong heat in December, it
will flower in February; and one
plant will scent a whole house with
fragrance like that of Mignonette.
After flowering, the plants ought to
be allowed to rest for three months,
during which time very little water
ought to be given to them. After
this they should be repotted, and
encouraged to grow, by giving them
plenty of water, &ce. A. edilis
Juss., is another stove species, which
climbs to the height of ten or twelve
feet, and, like all other climbers,

| thrives best when turned out into
| the free soil.

It may, however, be
grown in a pot, commencing with
one of small size, and shifting it
several times, till it is at last put
into a pot of eight or nine inches in
diameter, when a frame of wire,
three or four feet high, may be
fixed to the pot, and the stems
it. These species
will live and flower in a conser-
vatory, but not so freely as in
a stove. The treatment of the|

12

ALTHAHA.

greenhouse species of Alstroemeria
(which are very numerous) consists
in setting the plants to rest by with-
holding water after they have done
flowering, which is generally about
the end of July ; fresh potting them
about October or November, and
giving them plenty of heat and water
during April. and May, the time
when their growth is most rapid,
and when, from the brittleness of
their shoots, and the tenderness of
their leaves, they require to be shel-
tered or shaded from the sun and
wind. The climbing species, A.
acutifolia (L. et O.); A. hirtélla
(Kunth), and A. Salsilla (L.), suc-
ceed best, both in flowering and

ripening seeds, when planted in the |
free soil of a conservatory, or in the |
front of a stove or greenhouse, close |

under the wall, with protection
during severe weather. Several of
the species from Mexico, Chili, and
Peru, will live in the open air, in
similar situations ; and the greater
part of these will grow luxuriantly,
and in fine seasons will flower freely,
producing flowers of a much darker
colour than those which have been
grown under glass; and they will
even ripen seeds. ‘Those species
which have been found to succeed
best in the open airare, A. pulchélla
(Sims), A. Pelegrina (L.), and A.
versicolor (R. et. P.) All the species
are readily increased by parting the
roots, or by seeds.

Atti zm sa.—Malvacee.—The Hol-
lyhock.—Strong herbaceous plants,
natives of the middle and south of
Lurope, and also of India and China,
of which one species, A. 7dsea, the
common Hollyhock, is one of our
most splendid ornamental biennials.
It grows to the height of from five to
eight feet ; and there are varieties of
almost every colour, including white,
and purple so deep as to be almost
black. The flowers being large, and

Ha

ALYSSUM.

13

AMARANTUS.

the stems erect, the plants have the
best effect when grown in rows at the
back of a border ; or when each plant
rises by itself from a circular patch
inalawn. An avenue of Hollyhocks,
without any other flowering plants,
is also very grand and ornamental,
especially if the background on each

side of the avenue be a hedge of

either for rockwork or pots; as is A.
deltoideum L., (Aubrietia deltoidea,
Dec.), which has purple flowers. The
Sweet Alyssum, A. halimifolium, or
A, calycinum, now called Koniga
maritima, which has white flowers,
is well adapted for edgings to beds. A.
saxdtile, and all the other perennial

land shrubby species, are placed by

Laurel orsome other evergreen shrub. | some botanists in a new genus called
The fine effect of the Hollyhock with | Adysétum ; but this genus is not ge-
such a background is nowhere better | nerally adopted. All the species are
seen than at Dropmore. The seeds | of the easiest culture in common soil,
of the Hollyhock, which isa biennial, | if not kept too moist ; but they thrive
should be sown in March; and in| bestinsand or gravel. The perennial

| April, when the plants come up, they
' should be thinned out, and then suf-

fered to remain till September, when
they should be transplanted to the

| placewhere they are to flower. As the

Hollyhock requires a rich and strong
soil,it will be advisable, if the general
soil of the garden be not of that
nature, to diga pit two feetin diameter

_ and two feet deep, which should be

filled with equal parts of good strong
loam and thoroughly rotten dung
chopped up and well mixed together
with the spade. When the pit is fill-
ed, the earth should be allowed a few
days to settle, and then filled up to
the general level of the garden ; after
which the young Hoilyhocks should

tings planted under a hand-glass,and
the annual ones by seeds. Though
the perennial species are very hardy,

| species are readily increased by cut-

yet as they are, in truth, not true per- |

ennials, but plants with half-
shrubby or suffruticose stems, they
are apt to be injured by either severe
winters or very hot summers (for,
though injured by much wet, the
roots will soon wither if they are
kept too dry), and consequently they
require to be renewed every three or
four years.

AMARANTH.—The Amaranth of
the poets is generally supposed to
be the Globe Amaranth.—See Gom-
| PHRE'NA.

be planted in it, singly, ifthe plants| AMaRA’NTUS. — Amaranthdacee.
be very strong, and three together |—An extensive genus of annuals,
if they should be weak. When the | chieflynativesof warm climates, most
flower-stem appears, it should be tied | of which will flower in the open air
to a stake, if not strong enough to | in this country, if sown in February

support itself. ‘ona hotbed, and planted out in May.
AtTHz‘A Frou‘TeEx.—See H1s1's- | The most common speciesare A. hypo-
ous. chondriacus (the Prince’s Feather),

» Any’ssum. — Crucifere. — Mad- land A. caudatus (Love-lies-bleeding),
wort.—Herbaceous plants, both per- | both old inhabitants of British gar-
ennial and annual, of low growth, | dens, and of the easiest culture. A.
and with showy flowers, chiefly na- | tricolor isagreenhouse annual, chiefly
tives of Europe. A. saxdtile, which | remarkable for the red and white

grows about a foot high, and which
produces yellow flowers in April, is
one of the most ornamental of the
perennial species, and is well adapted

iotches in the centre of its leaves.
| The leaves of all the species may be
used as Spinach ; and those of one
species, Amardntus oleraceus (Chu-

AMARYLLIS.

14

san-Han-Tsi), are so employed in

| China.

Amary’LLis.—A maryllidacee.—
Bulbous plants, chiefly natives of the

Cape of Good Hope and South Ame- |

rica; but which have been increased

in number tenfold by hybrids and |

varieties raised in England. All the

_ kinds are eminently ornamental, and

a SS sss SS te oneness

they are all of easy culture ; the great
secret being to give them alternately
a season of excitement and a season
of repose. To do this effectually, the
plants should be abundantly supplied
with water and heat, and placed near
the glass, when they are coming into
flower, and water should be withheld
from them by degrees, when they have
done flowering, till they have entirely
ceased growing ; when they should be
kept quite dry, and in a state of rest.
When inthis state, they may beplaced
imany obscure part of astoveor green-
house where it is dry, and of a tem-
perature not under forty or fifty
degrees. If kept in such a situation
during winter, some kinds may be
turned out into a warm border in
spring, where they will flower; and if
the season be fine, they will renew
their bulbs in time to be taken up
before the approach of frost. The
chief value of these plants, however,
is, to produce flowers in the winter
season, which they readily do if they
are kept dry and dormant during the
latter part of the summer and
autumn. Indeed, by having a large
stock of these bulbs, a regular suc-
cession of flowers might be procured
during every month in the year.
When the dormant bulbs are intended
to be thrown into flower, they should
be fresh-potted in sandy loam and
leaf-mould, and put into a stove or
hotbed, the heat beginning at fifty
degrees, and ascending to sixty or
seventy degrees; and when theleaves

AMELANCHIER.

wanted, the watering must be con-
tinued, though somewhat less abun-
dantly, after the flowers have faded,
till the seeds areripe; and when these

are gathered, they ought to be sown |

immediately in light sandy loam, and
placed in a frame, or near the glass in
a moist part of the hothouse. If the
young plants are potted off as soon as
they are an inch or two in height, and
shifted frequently in the course of the
growing season, they will attain a
flowering size in from fifteen totwenty
months. The pots in which these
and all other bulbs are grown, ought
to be thoroughly drained by a handful
or more of potsherds (broken pots)
laid in the bottom of each pot, and
covered with turfy peat; and the
mould used should also be turfy, in
order the more freely to admit the
passage of water. The Belladonna
Lily (A. Belladénna) flowers most
splendidly in the open air in Devon-
shire, where the bulbs are planted in
rows, close together, so as to allow the
fibrous roots to form a mass, which is
never disturbed.

AMBERBO'A Dec.— Compésite.—
Sweet or Yellow Sultan.—Well-
known half-hardy annuals, natives
of Persia, formerly included in the
genus Centaurea ; the seeds of which
may besown in a hotbed in February,
and the young plants transplanted to
the open border in April or May.

AmBro'sIa. — Composite. —
Weedy annual plants of no beauty,
which, though found among the
annuals in some of the old seed
catalogues, are now scarcely ever
grown, except in botanic gardens.

AMELA’NCHIER. — Rosacew.—De-
ciduous shrubs or low trees, with
showy white flowers, which appear in
April. A. vulgaris and A. Botrya-
pium, the Snowy Mespilus (formerly
called Méspilus canadénsis), are very

appear, theyshould besuppliedabun- | desirable species for shrubberies.
dantly with water. Where seedsare | They are commonly propagated by

AMORPHA.

grafting on the Hawthorn, and they
will grow in any soil, and require
very little pruning. Like other
rosaceous shrubs, however, they are
very liable to have their foliage
injured by caterpillars.

Ame’tLtus Dec. — Compésite.—
There are only two species, one a
greenhouse perennial, and the other
an aster-like annual, Améllus dn-
nuus, which was formerly called
Kaulfissia amellotdes, and which is
a very pretty little plant, being re-
markable from the curious rolling up
of itspetals. Bothspeciesare natives
of the Cape, and will not grow inloam
without the addition of sand.

AMERICAN ALOE.—See AGa‘VE.

AMERICAN CONVOLVULUS.—See
CALYSTE'GIA.

AMERICAN Cows.Lip.—See Dopz-
CA.‘THEON.

AmetTHy’stEA. — Labidte. — An
annual plant with blue flowers, a
native of Siberia, of easy culture in
any soil or situation, except that it
will not bear transplanting, unless
when very young.

AmmMo'siuM. — Compésite. — A
kind of Everlasting flower, with a
yellow disc and white ray like a
Daisy. A native of New South
Wales, where it was found growing in
pure sand. It is generally grown
from seeds as an annual; but by
striking cuttings, it may be kept two
or three years.

Amo’rpHa.— Legumindse.—De-
ciduous shrubs, with pinnate leaves,
from North America, varying from
two to six feet in height, with showy
dark-blue and orange flowers in ter-
minal spikes. A. Lewisii hasflowers
of gold and purple of great beauty
when examined closely. All the
species are of comparatively short du-
ration ; their wood being soft, witha
large proportion of pith, and their
branches very liable to be broken off
by high winds: in otherrespects, they

15

AMYGDALUS.

are of easy culture in sandy soil, and
they are readily propagated by cut-
tings or layers. Indigo is made from
the pulpy part of the leaves of A.
indigéfera, an East Indian species.
AmMPELO’psis Mx.— Vitacee.—A.
hederdacea is well known by its Eng-
lish names of Virginian Creeper, and
Five-leaved Ivy. Its flowers have
no beauty, but it is worth cultivat-
ing as an ornamental plant, from the
brilliant scarlet which its leaves
assume in autumn; and which look
particularly well at that season, when
intermingled with those of the com-
mon Ivy, from the fine contrast they
afford. The plant is of very rapid
growth in any common soil, and it
is propagated by layers or cuttings.
AMPHI'cOME Royle. — Bignoni-
acec.—A very beautiful Nepal green-
house perennial, with tube-shaped
pink flowers. It may be propagated
by either seeds or cuttings, though
the first are sometimes two years be-
fore they vegetate, and the cuttings
are very difficult to strike. The soil
it is grown in should be loam, mixed
with peat and sand ; and to make it
flower well, very little water should
be given to it from the time of the
leaves dying down, till the young
shoots appear in spring.
Amy’GDaLus.— Rosdcew.—There
are two species of Almonds which are
highly ornamental, on account of their
flowers : A. nana, which does not
grow above two feet high, and pro-
duces its pink flowers in March; and
A. communis, which forms a small
deciduous tree, profusely covered
with flowers, in March and April,
before it expands its leaves. There
are several varieties of both species,
but the only one which is worth
notice is the large-flowered Almond,
A. c. macrocdrpa, which has much
larger flowers than the common kind,
though they are much paler. The
dwarf Almond is propagated by

ANDRACHNE.

16

ANEMONE.

suckers, and the other species and

| varieties by grafting on the common

Plum. What is generally known in

| gardens as the double dwarf Almond,
_ is now called by botanists Cérasus,
| or Primus japonica. Whenever the

tree Almond is planted for its flowers,
care should be taken to let it have a
background of evergreens ; as other-
wise, from the flowers being produced
before the leaves, half their beauty
will be lost from the cold and naked
appearance of the tree. All the
Almonds will grow and blossom
freely in the smoke of London.
Awnaca’Luis. — Primulacee. —
The Pimpernel.— Trailing herbaceous
plants, natives of the middle and
south of Europe. The common wild
Pimpernel, A. arvénsis, is red; but
the exotic species vary to several
shades of purple, lilac, andblue. The

| finest species is A. monéili, which re-

quires the protection of the green-

| house during winter, but which forms

a beautiful close covering for a flower-
bed in the open garden in summer,
producing its fine mazarine-blue flow-
ers from May to September. It is
easily propagated by cuttings, which
root immediately, in sand, under a
hand-glass, and it will thrive in any

| light soil.

Ancuu'sa.— Boraginew.—Coarse-
growing plants, annuals and peren-
nials, natives of the south of Europe,
and in part of Asia and Africa, re-
markable for their intensely blue
flowers, in some cases varied with
red and white. The finest species is
A. paniculata or ttdlica, the Italian
Bugloss, which is common in gardens,
The flowers are in erect leafy spikes,
and are ofa brilliant blue, with their
backs and buds of a reddish purple,
and the plant continues flowering
from June to September. The most
ornamental of the annual species are
now included in the genus No‘nra.

ANDRA’CHNE.—See A’RBUTUS.

| ANDRO/MEDA.— Ericicece.— Low
deciduous and evergreen heath-like
shrubs, chieflynatives of North Ame-
rica, and some of which are very
ornamental. All the species are

generally grown in heath-mould or |

peat, but they will also thrive in
very sandy loam. In whatever soil

they may be grown, the roots should |

never be suffered to become quite
dry ; as, like those of all the hair-
rooted plants, when once withered,
they cannot be restored; and the
plant has seldom vigour enough to

send out a sufficient quantity of new’

ones. All the kinds are propagated
by layers.

Awpro’sacE. — Primulacee. — —
Little insignificant plants, not worth |

growing except for rockwork ; and
only suited for that purpose from
their feeble habit of growth, which
prevents them from spreading fast.

AnpDRosz'MUM.—Hypericinacee.

—A handsome evergreen British |

plant, with showy yellow flowers ;
very useful in covering the ground
in shrubberies. It prefers a moist,
shady situation, and is uninjured by
the drip of trees. The English name
of this plant is Tutsan.

| ANEMO'NE. — Ranunculacee. —
All the plants belonging to this genus
are beautiful and well deserving of
cultivation, from the little white wood
Anemone (A. nemordlis), to the large
Dutch varieties of A. coronaria,
which have been sometimes known
to be six inches in diameter. The

common hardy kinds, including the ,

beautiful blue A. apennina, and the
Pasque-flower, A. Pulsatilla, or, as
it is sometimes called, Pulsatilla
vulgaris, are of very easy culture.
They should be planted in a warm
dry border, in face of a south wall, in
a light soil, and they may be left in

the ground for several years without |

| taking up. .Of the other kinds, A.
| palmata, with bright-yellow flowers,

Oe ee a fen

| October.

ANEMONE. 1}

-

‘

ANEMONE.

A. vitifolia, a Nepal species, both | first year. As A. coronaria, which
with large white flowers, and A. nar-|is the parent of the finest florists’

cissifldra, are well deserving of cul-
tivation. The Japan Anemone, A.
japonica, is, however, perhaps, the
finest species of the genus. It is a
native of China, where it grows in
moist woods, and whence it was intro-
duced in 1846. It is quite hardy in
the open air in the neighbourhood of
London, and continues producing its
beautiful rose-coloured flowers till
the end of September or beginning of
It grows best in a moist
andsomewhatshadysituation, There
is ahybrid raised between this species
and A. vitifolia, which has pale pink
flowers, and is of most luxuriant
growth. Itis much more hardy than
the common kind, but its foliage is
so abundant, that it requires con-
siderable space. The Hepatica was
once called Anemdne Hepdtica,
though this name has been long
changed to Hepédtica triloba. (See
Hepa’tica.) The garden Anemones,
on the contrary, which are what are
called Florists’ Flowers, require the
utmost care in their cultivation.
All the numerous and splendid
kinds of these plants which are met
with in gardens, spring from three

| species: viz., A. coronaria, the gar-
_ land or Poppy Anemone, the sepals

of which are;white, with a red ring
round the centre inside the flower,
and the sepals rounded at the tip ;
A, stellata, or pavonina, the sepals
of which are purplish, and of one

_ colour throughout; and A. horténsis,

the sepals of which are pointed and
purplish, with a white centre. The
tubers of these fine kinds of Ane-
mones, and their hybrids and varie-
ties, are sold in the seed shops by the
hundred. They resemble little
bunches of small black potatoes,
which may be divided, each portion
producing a new plant, though it will

Anemones, comes from Syria and
Asia Minor, where the ground is
parched and dry in the hot season,
the tubers should be taken up in our
moist climate every summer, as soon
as the flowers are over and the leaves
have turned yellow.
be laid on shelves formed of laths,
and then be keptin a warm, dry, airy
situation, till October, when they
should be planted-in beds prepared
for their reception ; and, where ex-
pense is not an object, these beds
should be dug out to the depth of
about a foot. In the bottom of the
pit thus formed, should be spread a
layer, six or eight inches thick, of
rotten cow-dung—if two years old so
much the better; and on this, fresh
loamy soil, so as to raise the bed
three or four inches above the level
of the walks.

ee

They should |

The surface of the bed |

is then raked smooth, and drills or |

furrows made in it about five inches
apart, and two inches deep. A little
sand should be strewed along these
drills, and the Anemone roots placed
in them three or four inches apart.
Care must be taken, in planting, to
let the tubers have the side which

contains the bud uppermost; and it |

sometimes requires rather a close ex-

amination to discover which side this |
is, particularly ifthe dry fibrousroots |

have been rubbed off, as the bud is
not very conspicuous. AJ] the pieces
accidentally broken off should be pre-
served, as they will all growand form
fresh tubers. The bed should be
covered with bast mats stretched over
hoops, or bundles of straw tied to-
gether, when danger is apprehended
from frost ; but this covering should
be so contrived as to be easily re-
moved when necessary, as the tubers
are very liable to be injured, and even
to become mouldy, by damp. When

probably be too weak to flower the | the plants begin to grow, they should

Cc

_ SS

ANEMONE.

18

ANNUALS.

be frequently watered with rain-
water, soas never to allow the fibrous
roots to wither from drought; and
when the plants have done flowering,

the mats on hoops should be again |
stretched over the bed, and the plants |
kept quite dry, till theirleaves become |

brown and wither, which will gene-
rally be in about a month after they
have done fiowering. The tubers
should then be taken up, and kept
dry till the return of the proper sea-
son for planting. Another mode of
cultivating the garden Anemone,

which is said to produce flowers of |

extraordinary size and beauty, is to
forma bed about eighteen inches deep,

' and to place a layer of stones, brick-
| bats,and other drainage atthe bottom,

about six inches deep. The bed is
then filled with fresh loam, and the
tubersare planted in drills with sand,
and covered as before directed; and
then, over the whole is placed a layer
of cow-dung, three or four inches
thick. The beds which are planted
in February, are watered with
pond or rain-water regularly once
a day, if the weather be dry and not
frosty, during the month of March,
and twice a-day afterwards till
they are in flower ; but those that
are planted in the autumn are sel-
dom watered till the leaves appear
above ground ; and afterwards, till
they flower. The watering carries
the manure in small quantities into
the ground, and the young plants
thus treated are said both to grow
and to flower with extraordinary
vigour. It must be observed, how-
ever, that there should be at least
two inches of loamy soil between the
cow-dung and the tubers ; as, if this
were not the case, the tubers would
be rotted. When seedling Anemones
are to be raised, the seed should be
divested of its pappus, by rubbing it
between the hands or through a sieve,
and sown in pots or boxes in August ;

the young tubers should be taken up
when the leaves wither the following
summer, and replanted in autumn,
'when they will flower the following
spring.

ANGELICA-TREE—See ARA‘LIA.

ANGELO‘NIA.—Scrophularine. —
An evergreen perennial, with very
beautiful blue flowers, a native of
South America. It should be kept
in a cool airy part of the stove, or
in a warm greenhouse; and it
should be allowed a season of rest,
during which it should be kept
cool, and have scarcely any water.
|The soil should be a very sandy
|loam, mixed with peat earth, and
it may be propagated, though with
difficulty, by cuttings, struck in
pure sand.

ANNUALS. —Planis which live
only one summer; and which, with
reference to their culture in British
gardens, are either tender, half-
hardy, or hardy. Tender annuals are
kept during the whole period of their
growth under glass ; half-hardy an-
nuals are raised under glass, and
afterwards transplanted into the
open garden ; and hardy annuals are
sown in the open garden.

Tender Annuals are sown in Fe-
bruary or March, in pots of light rich
earth, plunged in a hotbed; and as

are transplanted into pots of the very
smallest size, one in each pot; which
is called pricking them out. These
small pots are again set inthe hotbed,
as near the glass as possible, and
slightly shaded during sunshine. In
a week or two, when the roots have
made their appearance on the outside
of the ball of earth, which is known
by turning the plant out of the pot,
to examine the ball, and replacing it,
the plants are shifted into pots one
size larger; and this shifting is con-
tinued from time to time, always into
‘pots only a little larger than those

soon as the plants are come up, they |

————— nnn nm ee ee ee

ANNUALS.

19

ANNUALS.

the plants were iaken out off; till at |

last the plants are in pots six, eight,
or nine inches in diameter, according
to their nature, and the size to which
it is wished to grow them. In all
these shiftings, lightrich mould must
be used to fill up the pots, and suffi-
cient drainage must be secured, by

| placing potsherds in the bottom of

the colours of the flowers and leaves,
but will prolong the duration of the
plant.

Half-hardy Annuals may be
sown either in plunged pots, or ina
bed of earth on a slight hotbed, in
February or March ; and after they
have come up they may be pricked
out into plunged pots, or into the

each pot. In general, the more fre- | earth covering another slight hotbed,
quently the plantis shifted, the larger | where they may remain till the be-
and more bushy it will become before | ginning of May, when they should be

it flowers; but when once flower-buds
have made their appearance, no far-
ther advantage can be gained from
shifting, the growth of the plant being
then mature. Some persons water
tender annuals with liquid manure,
which is found to answer in the case
of Balsams, Cock’s-combs, and other
strong-growing plants, but to injure
more tender-growing kinds. The
extraordinary size that Balsams and
Cock’s-combs may be brought to by
repeatedly shifting them into larger
pots, is not only gratifying in itself,
but interesting and instructive, as
showing the effect of art on plants.
The common Balsam in a wild state,
in the East Indies, is seldom seen
above a foot in height, with a stem
half an inch in diameter; but
in British hot-houses it has been
grown to the height of five feet, with
a stem as thick asaman’swrist. We
have omitted to observe that during
the whole prezess of shifting, the
temperature in which the plants are
kept should be from sixty to seventy,
or even eighty degrees, during sun-
shine ; and that they should be so
abundantly supplied with water,
that the air should be constantly
charged with moisture: but when
the plants begin to flower, they
ought to be removed to a dry airy
situation, and the temperature gra-
dually lowered. The dry air, and
the lowering of the temperature, will
not only increase the intensity of

transplanted intothe beds or borders
in the open garden where they are
finally to remain. In most cases,
however, it is not worth while to
prick out the plants in a second
hotbed ; and sometimes they may be
sown in pots, and thinned out to two
or three plants in a pot ; and when
they have growntwo or three inches
high, the ball of earth, and the
plants in it may be turned out into
the open border. This mode is well
adapted for strong clayey soils, be-
cause when plants from a hotbed are
transplanted into such soils, they
commonly receive a severe check ;
whereas when they are turned out
with balls, provided the soil round
them is settled by a good watering,
they receive no check whatever.
The soil in which half-hardy annuals
are raised, should be light and rich,
because it is only in such a soil that
the tender seedlings will grow
vigorously and produce numerous
fibrous roots, without which they
would produce but little effect when
turned out into the open garden.
The more showy kinds of half-
hardy annuals are the French and
African Marigolds, Chinese and
German Asters, Zinnias, the purple
Jacobea, and a number of others.
Brompton, Tenweek, and German
Stocks, though quite hardy, make
better plants, and consequently
flower more vigorously, when so
raised. There are few plants more

o 2

aul

ANNUALS.

20

ANTHEMIS.

truly ornamental than the different

kinds of stock ; and when these are
raised under glass, pricked out into
pots of the smallest size, and gradu-
ally shifted from pots of two inches
to those of ten inches in diameter,
they will make winter ornaments |
for greenhouses and dining-rooms,
which for fine masses of colour are |

unequalled by any production of |
tropical climates. Brompton Stocks,
treated in this manner, have been
known to attain the height of six
feet, and to live and flower for three
years.

Hardy Annuals are generally
sown in the open garden, where they
are finally to remain; or they may

' be sown in pots or seed-beds to

transplant into their final situation,
when they are two or three inches
high. The latter mode is preferable
with all the Californian annuals,
which grow stronger and flower
better when sown in autumn, and
suffered to stand the winter in the
open air, than when they are sown
with the other annuals in spring.
About an inch in thickness of very
light soil should be laid on a hard
surface of rock or gravel, in any

| obscure part of the ground, and in
| this the seeds should be sown the

first week in September. In March
or April, according to the season,

| when the flower-beds and borders

have been dug over and prepared,
the young seedlings should be taken
up by spadefuls and laid over the
bed, filling up all the interstices
between the patches with earth, so
as to make the surface even. Thus
treated, the Nemophilas, the Leptosi-
phons, the Collinsias, the Lasthenias,
and, in short, all the Californian
annuals, will be splendidly in flower
in May and June.

When the seeds of annuals are
sown, the ground should first be
made firm by pressing it with the |

saucer of a flower-pot, or the back
of the spade ; the seeds should then
be sprinkled thinly over the ground,
and just covered with fine earth,
which should be slightly pressed

| down over them. When they come

up, if they appear too thick they
should be thinned out, so as to leave
each plant standing apart; the
distance at which they are left from
each other varying, of course, ac-
cording to the strength and habit of
growth of the plant. The plants of

some kinds of annuals will bear |

transplanting after they have been
taken up in thinning, but generally
they are not worth the trouble of re-
planting. The seeds when sown are
often destroyed by birds ; but this
may be prevented by turning a
flower-pot over each batch till the
seeds have germinated, taking care,
however, to remove it as soon as the
plants begin to grow, lest they should
be drawn up by the shelter thus
afforded, and become weak. Snails
and slugs are dangerous enemies to
young and tender annuals, and care
should be taken to search for them
early in the morning and late in the
evening; or to destroy them by
watering the ground with lime-
water, so weak as not to disfigure
the plants.

Ayo’na I. — Anonacee. — The
Custard Apple.—Stove-shrubs and
low trees, natives of the East and
West Indies. The hardy species are
now formed into a separate genus,
under the name Asimina ; and one
species, A. triloba, which has very
curious flowers, is frequently found
in gardens and shrubberies.

A’/ntHEMIS.— Composite. — The
Chamomile. —A. Pyréthrum, the
Pellitory of Spain, is a pretty little

perennial, with large white flowers,

stained with lilac on the back. It is
a suitable plant for rockwork, or
boxes in a balcony, as it requires a

ANTIRRHINUM. 21 APHIS.

warm dry situation. “Miller raised | flowers two years in succession from
this plantin rather a curious way in | the same root; and thus a person
1732, finding its seeds among some | who has purchased a plant with
Malaga raisins, to which they had | beautifully striped flowers, will
adhered. The root was formerly | generally have the mortification,
considered a cure for the toothache. | the second year, to find it pro-
The Arabian Chamomile, a pretty | duce nothing but flowers of the
low-growing hardy annual, with | common Snapdragon, unless cut-
yellow flowers, isnow called Claddn-| tings have been made from the
thus arabicus. _young shoots of the plant, and the
AntHoce'rcis. —Scrophuldérine. | old root thrown away. As this
—A. viscosa is a very handsome | plant in its wild state is very com-
greenhouse shrub, with smooth dark- | monly found growing on the tops of
green leaves and large white flowers, | old walls, or among fragments of
which appear in Mayand June. The | lime-stone, it may be considered as
flowers have a short tube, within | one of the most ornamental plants for
which isa kind of star of green rays, | placing in similar situations. Many
and a widely-spreading limb, deeply | of the plants formerly called Antir-
cut into five distinct segments. The | rhinwm, are now removed to the
culture of this plant requires care, | genus Linuria.
as the wood is of a very soft nature, Ants are very troublesome in hot-
and the plant is easily injured by | houses and greenhouses, and it is
over-watering ; and when this isthe | very difficult to get rid of them. As
case, the leaves turn yellow, and | however, it has been found that the
finally drop off. liquor discharged by ants is very acid
Antuy’tuis. — Leguminose. — | and acrid, the idea presented itself
Kidney Vetch.—Dwarf plants with | that alkalies would be disagreeable to
pretty flowers ; generally used for | them ; and experience proves this so
rockwork ; which are quite hardy, | far to be the case, that a circle of
and will grow in any common soil. | chalk or lime laid round any plant
Antirrul’NuM.—Scrophulérine. | will effectually prevent the ants from
—The Snapdragon. — Annual and | touching it.
perennial plants, natives of the} A‘pHis.—The green-fly, or plant-
middle and south of Europe, and of | louse, is one of the most troublesome
which one species, A. mdjus, the | insects to the gardener, particularly
common Snapdragon, is in almost|on Rose-trees. These insects lay
every garden. There are many | their first set of eggs (which are
varieties of this species, the finest of | small and black) in autumn, near
which, A. m. caryophyllitdes, has | the axils of the buds. The eggs are
the flowers striped like those of a| hatched in February or March ; but
flaked Carnation. All the species of|as only a few insects appear, they
Snapdragon grow in any soil that is | generally escape unnoticed, and,
tolerably dry, and they are readily | after twice casting their skins,
increased by cuttings ; for though | arrive at their full growth in April.
they produce abundance of seeds, | From this period to the end of
yet the varieties can only be/| summer, brood after brood is pro-
perpetuated with certainty by the |duced with almost inconceivable
former mode of propagation. The | rapidity ; andas these latter broods
beautiful carnation-like variety will, | of aphides are all born alive, they
indeed, very seldom produce striped | begin to devour the plants on which

ee

AQUARIUM.

22

ARABIS.

they appear immediately.
tenth generation usually appears
about September, and these insects
lay eggs for the first brood the
following spring. The best way of
preventing the attacks of these
insects is washing the branches of
the Rose-trees with soft soap and
water in January or February ; or,
in short, any time before the buds
begin to swell. When they have
appeared, the best way to destroy
them is to lay the infested branches
on the hand, and gently to brush off
the insects with a soft brush and
plain water. Or if this be not found
sufficient, to make a decoction of
quassia, in the proportion of an
ounce of quassia chips to every quart
of water, and to dip the infested
branches in it. Quassia is not in-
jurious to plants, though it is instan-
taneously destructive to animal life.

Some gardeners employ tobacco- | The

water, but when this is used, the

The |

There are few greenhouse aquatics,
but a number of stove plants which
require to be grown in water; such
as the Indian Lotus, or Nelaimbiumy.
d&c., and these are necessarily grown
in pots of moderate size. The most
suitable soil is a rich loam. The
Victoria Regia, being a river plant,
requires the water to be gently
agitated, to keep it in a healthy
state ; and this effect is produced
either by a wheel continually turning,
as at Chatsworth, or by a bucket
moved by machinery so as to empty
itself when it rises to a certain
height, and then descend to be re-
filled. The plant is grown on little
hillocks of loamy soil under the
surface of the water, so that the
root and stem is in shallower water
than the leaves. If this plant be
kept in stagnant water, the leaves
will rot when about half grown.
Papyrus, though properly
speaking it is a marsh plant, is also

shoots should only remain a few! grown on mounds of earth in an

seconds in the tobacco-water, and
then be washed immediately in clean
cold water, or they will become so
blackened and withered, that the
remedy will be worse than the in-
sects. Snuff and lime-water are
liable to the same objections, as
both greatly disfigure the plants.
Agua‘rium.—A pond, basin, or
cistern of water, for the growth of
water-plants. In a pond in the
open garden, the plants may either
be grown in pots, plunged to the
depth of one or two feet in the water,
or they may be planted in the bot-
tom of the pond. The former is
generally the best mode, because the
plants are by that means kept
distinct, and the stronger cannot
overpower the weaker. At the same
time very strong ground planis,
such as the white and yellow Water-
lilies, do not flower freely unless in
the free soil, or in very large tubs.

aquarium.—See Marsn Prants.
AQuILE‘GIA. — Ranunculacee. —
The Columbine.—Perennial herba-
ceous plants, growing from one to
two feet high, of which several
species are very ornamental; more
especially the common Columbine,
A. vulgiris, and its varieties, A.
alpina, A. canadénsis, A. glan-
dulosa, and A. glandulisa grandi-
jlora. They grow in any common
soil that is dry ; and the species are
increased by seeds, which will keep
a long time, and the varieties by
division of the root.
A’naBis—Crucifere.—Wallcress.
— Herbaceous plants, chiefly an-
nuals and biennials, natives of
Europe, many of which are remark-
able for their early flowering. A.
alpina has white and yellow flowers,
which appear in March, and A.
albida flowers the greater part of
the year, commencing in mild winters

ee

Pe eee

ARBORETUM.

tufts of white blossoms till October.
Some of the species and varieties,
such as A. vérna, A. alpina nana,
and A. bellidifolia, do not grow
above three inches high, and are
admirable plants for rockwork, or
gardens of pots.

Ara’ia. — Araliacee. — Hardy
suffruticose plants, and stove shrubs,
with umbels of small white flowers.

_ The commonest species is A. spindsa,
_ useful in a shrubbery for its hardi-

ness, and for its thriving in any
poor gravelly soil. There is a new
species, A. japonica, which is much
handsomer than the common kind.
Arauca’RIA.— Conifere.—Some
of the species are very ornamental.
A. imbricata, or the Chilian Pine, is
quite hardy, and though it attains
a large size in its native country, it
grows so slowly in Britain, that it
may be safely planted on a lawn.
A. Brasilidna, which resembles A.
imbricata, but has longer and looser
leaves, is much more tender. A.
excélsa, the Norfolk Island Pine, and
A. Cunninghami, the Moreton Bay
Pine, are both greenhouse plants in
Great Britain, and are seldom seen
in perfection, on account of the great
space they require. A. Cookitiisa
very singular plant of this genus,
which was first discovered by Captain
Cook on a small island near New
Caledonia. He describes its ap-
pearance as that of a tower, or
basaltic column, and hence it was
first called A. columndaris.
ARBORE'TUM.—A collection of
trees and shrubs, containing only one
er two plants of a kind, arranged
together according to some system or
method. The most common arrange-
ment is that of the Natural System ;
but the plants in an arboretum may
be placed together according to the
countries of which they are natives ;
according to the soil in which they

23

ARBUTUS.

in January, and producing its large

grow ; or according to their sizes and
habits, or time of leafing, or flower-
ing. In all small villa residences an
arboretum is the most effectual means
of procuring a maximum of enjoy-
ment in a minimum of space, as far
as trees and shrubs are concerned.
To render an arboretum useful and
interesting, each tree and shrub
should be named.
A’rporvit%.—See THUA.
Arzours. —Seats or resting-
places, forming terminations to
walks, or fixed in retired parts of
shrubberies or pleasure-grounds. In
general, every straight walk ought
to lead to some object of use, as well
as of beauty ; and an arbour is one
of those in most common use. The
structure being formed, climbing
plants, ligneous or herbaceous, are
planted all round it at the base of
the trellis-work, or frame, against
which, as they climb up, they ought
to be tied and trained, so as to

spread over the whole arbour. Some.

of the best plants for this purpose
are the different species of Honey-
suckle, Roses, and Clematis ; and the
Laburnum, the Periploca gre'ca, the
Maurandyas, the Wistarias, Hecre-
mocdrpus scaber, Lophospermum,
Rhodochiton, the Virginian Creeper,
Cobe‘a scdéndens, Menispérmum
canadénse, and Ivy.

Arsu’tus. — Hricacew. — The
Straw berry-tree.— Well-known ever-
green shrubs, of which A. U‘nedo
rabra deserves to be mentioned for
the beauty of its flowers; A. cana-
riénsis, a greenhouse species, has
also very showy flowers; and A.
Andrdchne, which is the tenderest
of the open air kinds, is remarkable
for the looseness and redness of its
bark. All the species are very or-
namental, and of free growth ; and
they all thrive best in heath mould,
or very sandy loam. They are pro-
pagated by layers or cuttings.

eee ereeren rere renee eeinetn OCA C te CLL LC OC OTTE O C C t

ARENARIA.

ARCTOSTA’PHYLOS.— Ericdcee.—

24

ARTEMISIA.

and they are all quite hardy. The

The Bearberry.—A Mexican ever-
green shrub, with arbutus-like flow-
ers. Itis very difficult to cultivate,
as it will sometimes die off suddenly
in hot weather after a few hours’ rain,
if planted in the open border. Mr.
Gordon, in the Botanical Register,
recommends the seeds to be sown in
pots, in a mixture of peat and loam,
with a little decomposed cow-dung;
and when the plants come up, that
they should be transplanted into
other pots, and kept closely shut up

| and well shaded till they have made

three or four leaves. The plants
should then be shifted at once into
larger pots, and returned to the

| frame, ‘‘which should now have the
_ back turned to the sun, and be kept

a Se

close for several weeks, air not being
given at any time until the plants are
fairly started and growing again.”
Mr. Gordon continues: ‘‘afterwards
remove the lights entirely during the
night, and keep them quite close in
the day during the summer and
autumn.” In winter keep the plants
in a cold pit, where there is plenty
of light and air, but no damp.
AnrctTo'T1s.—Compésite.— Under-
shrubs and herbaceous plants, natives
of the Cape of Good Hope, and of
which one species, A. dspera, has
large yellow flowers, and is truly or-
namental. It grows freely in loamy
soil, and is incfeased by cuttings
planted in sand under a handglass.
Arpr’sia.—Myrsinee.—A genus
of stove shrubs, of which A. lentigi-
nosa@ isvery ornamental for its scarlet
fruit. All the species grow in loam
and peat, and cuttings root freely in
sand in a moist heat under a hand-
glass. They may also be increased by
cuttings of the root placed in heat.
ARENA ‘RIA. —Caryophyllacee.—
Pretty little plants, with flowers

flowers are red, white, or purple.
These plants are of easy culture in
any dry sandy soil, and they are
particularly suitable for rockwork.

ARGEMO'NE. — Papaverdcce. —
Prickly-poppy.—Highly ornamental
hardy annuals and perennials from
Mexico, with large flowers like those
of the Poppy, and of the easiest cul-
ture. The plants, spreading widely,
require a good deal of room to look
handsome.

ARGYRE'IA.— Convolvulacee.—A
very showy tropical climber, bearing
considerable resemblance to an Ipo-
mex, but with large bright lilac
flowers.

‘ARISTOLO'CHIA. — Asdring. —
Birth-wort.—The Aristolochias are
mostly climbing plants, requiring the
heat of a stove; but A. Sipho, A.
tomentosa, and A. Arkdnsa, natives
of North America, are hardy enough
to endure the open air in Britain,
without the slightest protection.
They are all remarkable for the very
singular shape of their flowers, and
their large handsome leaves. They
should be grown in sandy loam and
peat ; and they are propagated by
cuttings.

ArME‘RIA. — Plumbaginee, —
Thrift.—Hardy perennials, most of
which are ornamental; and one spe-
cies, A. vulgiris, the common
Thrift, is a good flowering plant for
edgings to beds and borders. It
thrives in any soil not saturated with
moisture, and is rapidly increased
by division. A. alpina, which pro-
duces its pink flowers from May to
August, is a most desirable plant
for pots or rockwork.

ARTEMI'sIA.— Composite .—This
genus contains, among other plants,
two well-known shrubs ; the South-
ernwood, or Old Man (Artemisia

shaped like those of the Pink. Most | Abrétanum), and the Wormwood

. . 1
of the species are natives of Europe, |

(A. Absinthium). There is another

Saaen ee RE oe

| ethiopica,

| side of rivers.

ARUM. 2

very handsome species, a native of
Siberia. Allthekindsarevery hardy,
and will grow in any common soil ;
and the Southernwood is valuable for
bearing want of air, and smoke, with-
out injury. The leaves of this plant,
slender as they are, will be found, if
held upto the light, to befull of trans-
parent dots, like those of all other
plants having highly-scented leaves.
These dots are the cells or vesicles
containing the fragrant oil that gives
out the scent; and breaking them,
by rubbing the leaves between the
fingers, makes the scent stronger.
A’ruM.—Avoidee.—A genus of
perennials, chiefly natives of warm
climates, and of which a few species
are hardy in British gardens. Of
these, A. Dracéimculus, the Dragon
Arum, deserves a place in the flower-
garden, for its very remarkable
flowers. The large and splendid
plant, with arrow-shaped leaves and
white flowers, commonly called the
Arum, belongs to a different genus,
and was first called by botanists
Cdlla, and afterwards Richdrdia
It is a native of the
Cape of Good Hope and St. Helena,
where it grows in rich soil by the
In England, it will

| not bear the winter in the open air,

unless well protected ; and on this
account it is generally grown in pots.
It is increased by offsets, which form
on its thick fleshy roots in August or
September. These should be potted
in small pots, in soil composed of
three parts of sandy loam, and one
of leaf-mould, or thoroughly rotten
manure. The pots should be well
drained, and the plants frequently
watered, while they are in a growing
state. About May orJune, the leaves
will begin to wither at their points ;
and when thisis perceived, the supply
of water should be lessened, till at
last only enough is given just to keep
the plant alive. During the time the

5 ARUNDO.

leaves are dying off, the plant should
have abundance of light; but when
they areall withered, the plantshould
beremoved to any shed or other place
where it may enjoy complete repose
for about a month. In October or
November it should be repotted, and
supplied with abundance of water,
particularly if kept in a sitting-room
where there isa dailyfire. It should
indeed alwaysstand ina saucer full of
water (changing the water every day),
as the plant will not flower if once
suffered to become too dry while in
a growing state; and as it has the
extraordinary power of discharging
the superabundant water from the
points of its leaves in drops, there
is no danger of the water injuring
it. The power of throwing off its
superabundant moisture renders it
also suitable for culture as an
aquatic plant; and when thus
treated, it will live in the open air
all winter, as when the leaves die
down, the water, being only frozen
a few inches below the surface, will
be ata sufficiently high temperature
to keep the root from frost. The
roots must be planted in the mud at
the bottom of the pond, and a part
should be chosen where the water is
not more than three feet deep. This
must be attended to; because as
the plant will not expand its flowers
till its leaves rise above the surface,
the stem would become weakened
by being more elongated. The plant
generally flowers in March or April;
but by prolonging its season of re-
pose, it may be made to flower in
May or June.
ARU’NDO.—Graminee.—A. Do-
nase is a splendid bamboo-looking
reed, rather tender in severe win-
ters ; but which, if the season be
favourable, will grow in rich soil,
kept moist, to the height of ten or
twelve feet in one year ; producing
a fine oriental appearance when

net less dea A a eee

ASPHODELUS.

9

—

6 ASTRAGALUS,

standing singly on a lawn, or near |
There is a variety with |

water.
striped leaves, which is common in
gardens ; and which is called Rib-
bon-grass in England, and in Scot-
land, Gardener’s-garters. This va-
riety is quite hardy.
a native of Italy, and itis often used
instead of bamboo for chairs, canes,
&e.; the imperfect canes are in gene-
ral use in Rome for lighting fires.
AscLe‘pias. — Asclepiadea. —
Swallow-wort.— North American
herbaceous plants, for the greater
part hardy in British gardens. The
most ornamental species is A. tu-
berdsa, which has fine scarlet-
orange flowers,
difficult to cultivate. It thrives,
however, in sandy peat, kept rather
dry than otherwise, and seldom dis-
turbed by removal ; and it is in-
creased by division. A. ¢ncarndta
is supposed to be a variety of A.
tuberosa, but it has rose-coloured
flowers. A. amena has purple
flowers, and thrives in a mixture of
peat and loam. A. curassdvica has
scarlet flowers, and grows best in
rich mould; it is readily increased by

| cuttings, or by seeds, which it pro-

duces in abundance. Itis, however,
generally considered a stove plant.
AsH BERBERRY.—See MAnOo'NIA.
Aspr’/RULA.—Rubidcee.—W ood-
roof.—Hardy herbaceous plants, of
which one species, A. odorata, the
common Woodroof, or Woodruff, de-
serves culture for its sweet-scented
white flowers, which, in the dried
plant, have the scent of hay. It is
well adapted for growing in pots,
but as it increases rapidly by its
creeping roots, it is by no means
desirable for rockwork.
ASPHO'DELUS. —- Asphodélece, —
King’s-spear, or King’s-rod.—Orna-
mental herbaceous plants, mostly
quite hardy, of which A. d/bus and
A,

The species is |

but is somewhat |

liteus are the most ornamental |

species. They are coarse-growing
plants, and increase rapidly by
suckers in any common soil.

A’/stER.—Compésite.—The Mi-
chaelmas Daisy.—Hardy herbaceous
plants, mostly perennials. There
are also a few Cape and New Hol-
land shrubs. The herbaceous spe-
cies are of great value, from their
flowering late in autumn, and from
their requiring very little care or
labour in their culture. They will
grow in any soil or situation, and
spread rapidly by throwing up
suckers and sending out root-stems.
Among the handsomest perennial
species are A. alpinus, and A. eri-
coides, the common Michaelmas
Daisy. The China Aster has been
separated by botanists from the
genus A/ster ; it was first placed in
the genus Callistémma, but it and its
varieties, the German Asters, &c.,
now form the new genus Callesté-
phus, under which the culture of the
plant is given. A’ster tenéllus is
thus the only annual species left in
the old genus, and itis a pretty little
hardy plant, which may be sown in
the open ground in March or April.
Among the greenhouse species of
Aster, A. argophyllus, sometimes
called the Musk-plant, is remarkable
for its white leaves and strong scent;
and A. fruticuldsus has pretty blue
flowers. These two last species are
grown in sandy peat, or a mixture
of loam and peat, and are readily
propagated.

Ast LBE.—Sazifragee.—A very
pretty hardy plant, with clusters of
pink flowers, and very much the
habit of A. Spirew. Itis a native of
lofty mountains in Hastern Bengal,
and was introduced in 1857.

AstRA/GALUS. — Leguminose. —-
The Milk Vetch.—Vigorous-grow-
ing pea-flowered plants, of which
several deserve culture, on account
of their flowers. They grow in any

a a.

AUCUBA.

common soil with a dry bottom, and |

are readily increased by seeds, or by
division of the root.

Atama’sco Lity.—See ZepHyR-
A'NTHES.

ATRA’/GENE.— Ranunculacee.—
This genus is nearly allied to Clé-
matis. The species are half-shrubby
climbers, very suitable for training
against walls or trellis-work, or for
covering bowers. They all grow
freely in any common garden soil,
and they are readily increased by
layers, or by cuttings of the growing
wood planted in sand under a hand-
glass. They also frequently ripen
seeds, which ought to be sown im-
mediately ; in which case they will
come up the following spring ; other-
wise, if kept some months before
sowing, they will probably lie in
the ground a year. Ail the species
are beautiful, but A. austriaca,
with blue flowers, and A. sibirica,
with white flowers, are the most
ornamental.

A’tRoPA.—Solandcee.—A. Bel-
ladénna is the Deadly Nightshade.

AUBRIE‘TIA.—Crucifere.—A ge-
nus of pretty little plants, generally
with purple flowers, not above three
inches high, which flower in March,
and are admirably adapted for pots,
or miniaturerock-work. They grow
in any common soil, and are readily
propagated by division. A. delto-
idea, and A. pwrpwrea, are the
most desirable species.

Av’cuBa.—JLoranthacee, or Cor-
nacece.—A hardy evergreen shrub,
which, though a native of Japan,
endures the severest winters in the
climate of Londun. It is common
in every garden, and it is often
called the Japan, or spotted Laurel.
The leaves are leathery and varie-
gated ; and the bark of the shoots
is of a pale green. It will grow in
any soil, either in an open situation,

27

AZALEA.

forms a compact bush, which never
requires pruning. It is propagated
by cuttings or layers. The Aucuba
in British gardens is only the
female plant; as, though it has
been introduced above fifty years,
it has never ripened seeds, though
it flowers every spring; and the
species, of which our variegated
plant is evidently only a variety,
has never been introduced. Its
fruit being unknown, botanists have
been much puzzled to know where
to class it ; thus, it was first placed
in Rhamnaces, with the Buck-

thorns, then in Loranthacez, with |
the Mistletoe ; and now in Corna- |

ce, with the Dogwoods.
Auri’cuLa.—See Pri’MvLa.
AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS have gene-

rally a strong tap-root, which sends |

out very fine fibres ; they require a
sandy loam, or peat, mixed with

decayed leaves ; and they should be |

frequently watered, but the water

never suffered to remain in a stag- »

nant state round their roots. They

are all easily killed by an excess of |
either stagnant moisture, or drought; |

as in the former case the slender
fibres of the roots rot, and in the
latter they wither, and are seldom,
if ever, renewed. The seeds of
nearly all of them are also very
long before they vegetate, unless
steeped for at least twenty-four
hours in water, which should be
hot when poured on them. Some
of the Acacia seeds may even be
boiled two or three minutes without
injuring them. All the Australian
shrubs and trees are very tenacious
of life ; and when apparently killed,
they will generally, if cut down,
spring again from the root.

_ AvENS.—See Geum.

’ Aza‘tEa L.— Ericacee.—Beau-
tiful flowering plants, natives of
North America, Turkey, and China.

or under the drip of trees; and it |The American kinds, and A. pén-

BABINGTONIA,

28

BALCONY GARDENS.

teca, the only species found in| genus was formerly included in

Turkey, are quite hardy ; but the |

Chinese kinds require the protection
of a greenhouse. All the species
should be grown in peat-earth, or

spent tan, mixed with a very large |

proportion of sand, or very sandy
loam; and, provided the ground
they grow in is well drained, and
they are never allowed to become
too dry, they will thrive in almost
any situation, though they prefer
the shade. They may be trans-
planted at almost any age, or season,
even when in flower, provided a
ball of earth be kept round their
roots ; and as they hybridise freely,
and ripen seed abundantly, innu-
merable varieties may be raised.
They also bear both forcing and
retarding extremely well. Several
attempts have been made to natu-
ralise them in this country ; parti-
cularly at High Clere, near New-
bury, the seat of Lord Caernarvon.
The kinds called the Ghent Azaleas
are hybrids and varieties raised in
Belgium, from the yellow Azalea
(A. pontica), and the American
species.

AZAROLE-TREE. — See Cratz'-
GUS.

AZEDARA’cH.—See Mania.

ABIA‘NA. — Jridacee. — A
genus of Cape plants, with
solid bulbs of corm, which are
eaten by the Hottentots ; and which,
when roasted, are said to resemble

Chestnuts. The species have all
showy flowers. For their culture
see Buss.

BaBINGTO'NIA.—Myrtacee § Lep-

tospérmece,—A very curious little |

greenhouse shrub from the Swan
River, which produces its long spike
of white flowers tinged with pink in
autumn and winter. The leaves
resemble those of a Heath. The

Bz’cKIA.

Ba'ccHaRis. — Compdsite. —
Ploughman’s Spikenard.—Shrubs,
generally with white flowers, and
natives of America, growing in any
common garden soil,

BaLcony GARDENS.—The most
suitable plants for balconies are
those of low growth ; and as, from
their exposed situation, they are
liable to great and sudden changes,
with regard to temperature, winds,

and moisture, they ought to be
naturally tolerably hardy. To pre-
vent the soil in the pots from be-
coming over-dried, from the pot
being constantly exposed to the wind,
one pot ought to be placed within
another, with a little sand or moss
between, and this sand or moss
ought to be kept constantly moist.
The pots may be set in saucers,
provided a little gravel be placed in
the bottom of each saucer, so as to
allow the free escape of water from

| the hole in the bottom of the pot ;

for if this water stagnates in the
pot, it soon swells the soil so as to
close up the hole in the bottom, and
to prevent the free escape of water ;
in which case the soil in the pot is
sure to become sodden. When there
is no gravel in the saucers, the
plants should be well and frequently
watered ; but the water that runs
through the earth in the pot into the
saucer, should be poured out imme-
diately and thrown away. A very
good mode of growing plants in bal-
conies is, to set the pots in wooden
or slate boxes or troughs, painted
stone-colour, with a little gravel at
the bottom for the pots to stand on,
and with the interstices filled in
with moss, which may also cover
the rims and surface of the pots, so
as to make the plants appear to be

growing out of moss. Mignonette
and trailing plants are best grown

|

BALSAMINA.

29

BAPTISIA.

entirely in wooden or slate boxes, | numerousvarietiesareraised. Where

without the intervention of pots.
Batm.—See Dracocn’PHALUM.
BatsaM.—See BAatsamr'na.
Barsamr'na.—BPalsaminacee. —
Tender and haif-hardy annuals, with
splendid flowers, mostly natives of
the East Indies. The common Bal-

there is any difficulty in raising the
plants, new seeds should be used ;
but though the plants raised from
seeds ripened the same year will be
very robust, the flowers will be
generally single, and their colours
neither bright nor distinct. Careful

sam (B. horténsis) is a well-known | growers of Balsams, who wish to

greenhouse plant of great beauty. | raise prize flowers, never use seeds |

To grow it in perfection, seeds at
least a year old should be sown ona
hotbed, and when the plants come
up they should be transplanted into
very small pots, which should be
plunged into the hotbed, and well
supplied with water. In about a
week, the plants should be trans-
ferred to larger pots; and this
operation should be repeated ten or
twelve times, always removing the
plants to pots only a little larger
than those they were taken from.
As soon as the flower-buds begin to
form, the plants should not be
shifted any more, and the pots which
contain them must no longer be
placed in the hotbed, but the plants
must be gradually accustomed to the
open air. Many gardeners never
plunge the pots after the plants are
three or four inches high, and re-
move them from the hotbed to the
greenhouse as socn as possible. Re-
peated shiftings are, however, essen-
tial to produce fine large flowers and
handsome plants. The great secret
in growing Balsams is to allow them
plenty of air and light, and never to
suffer them to become drawn up; as,
when that is the case, they will
never afterwards make handsome
plants. As Balsams, from their suc-
culent nature, require a great deal
of moisture, the saucers in which
the pots stand may be kept con-
stantly full of water; but this water
should be changed every day. Bal-
sams generally ripen seeds, even
from the double flowers, and thus

less than three years old; and they |
are particular in saving them from |
the handsomest and most double |

flowers; the best being those which
have their colours distinctly marked,
like a Carnation. The more choice
varieties may be preserved by cut-
tings, which root readily in sand
kept moist below, but dry at top,
and covered with a bell-glass. The
seed-pods of Balsamina, and those
of Impatiens, or Touch-me-not, open
with a jerk when touched, so as to
throw the seeds to a distance.
BamsBoo.—See Bampu'sa.
BamMBu'sa. — Graminee. — A
rapid-growing stove-plant, which has
a noble appearance where there is
abundance of room. There are some
species so hardy as to stand the open
air in the island of Jersey; and one
of these, B. nigra, will thrive in a
greenhouse, or against a conservatory
wall, inthe climate of London. The
Bamboos should be grown in loamy

| soil, and they are increased by offsets.

Bana‘na.—See Mo'sa.

Ba’NKSIA.— Protedcee. — Ever-
green New Holland Shrubs, with
flowers resembling a kind of brush,
and curiously notched and cut leaves.

_ All the species grow well in a mix-

ture of sandy peat and loam, with
the pots well drained; and cuttings
of the young wood root with some
difficulty in sand under a bell-glass,
with a slight bottom-heat.
Bapti'sta.— Leguinindse.—Her-
baceous pea-flowered plants, from
North America, of vigorous growth

—_— Tr - - - O-——-- oo ---—— aes

| deserves a place in collections.

_ Anthyllis.

BARK.

and rather elegant appearance ; of
which one species, B. australis, well

They may be grown in the open air
in common soil, and may be propaga-
ted by division of the root, or by seeds,

Ba’rpa Jo'vis.—A_ species of

BARBADOES CHERRY.—See MAL-

PI’/GHIA.

BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY.—See
Prre’sKIA.

BaRBARE'A.— Crucifere.—Per-
ennial plants, of which B. vulgaris
jlore pleno, the double Yellow
Rocket, is worthy of culture. It is
propagated either by cuttings or
division of the root, in common soil.

BARBERRY.—See Be’RBERIS.

Bark.—The refuse bark which

has been used for tanning leather,

and which produces considerable
heat by its fermentation. When
obtained from the tannery, it is ge-
nerally soaked in water, and then
spread out in an open shed, and |
turned over several times; after
this, it is laid in a ridge or heap,
and when it has begun to heat, it is |
again turned over once or twice,
when it is fit to be put into the
bark-bed. In this bed or pit it
continues to ferment, and gives out
heat for several months: and when
the heat begins to decline, fresh bark
is added from the reserve stock in

30

BARK-STOVE.

| London gardens, are found to pro-

duce a steady and durable heat in
hotbeds and pits during the sum-
mer months. The best substitute
for the peculiar heat of the bark is,

however, a mass of stones heated by

steam, or a mass of soil, or sand,
heated by pipes of hot water. The
spent bark, after it will no longer
afford heat for a hotbed, may be
used as a substitute for peat to grow
American plants, such as Rhodo-
dendrons and Azaleas; but when
used for this purpose, it will require
to be mixed with a very large pro-
portion of sand.

Bark, or Moist Stove. —A
plant structure, with a glass roof,
and a bed or pit in its centre, con-
taining a mass of fermenting matter,
or of earth or sand, heated by arti-
ficial means, in which plants in pots
are to be plunged. The plants
grown in such houses being natives
of the warmest parts of tropical
countries, the temperature in a
bark-stove should never be lower
than 60°, and during summer it may
rise as high as 80° or 90°. In gene-
ral, the heat ought to be greatest in
the day-time, and during bright
sunshine, and least during night,
throughout the year. To supply
the air in the house with sufficient
moisture, the floors of the passages
should be frequently watered ; and

the shed. The bark-bed may be of | to facilitate the same object, and to
any dimensions in regard of length | subdue insects, the plants should be
and width, but it should seldom be | syringed or watered overhead most

more than two feet in depth, to |
prevent an excess of heat. The}
plants in pots are generally plunged
in it, at first to half the depth of
the pot, and afterwards to the rim.
Substitutes for bark are stable-dung,
leaves of trees, chaff, and any other
vegetable or animal substances which
ferment in decaying ; and in large

towns the sweepings of streets may | lowing morning at 6 or 7.

days in the year, and especially in
the summer season, about 3 o'clock
in the afternoon. After this water-
ing the house should be shut up for
the night, excepting when the
weather is very warm, when some
air may be given by opening the
sashes at 8 or 9 o'clock at night,
and leaving them open till the fol-
Inde-

be used, as these, in some of the | pendently of the bark-bed, the air

|

BAUHINIA. a)

of the moist stove requires to be!
heated by pipes of hot water or
steam, or by smoke flues : the first
mode being found by experience to
be the best.

BARNADE'SIA.—Compostte§ La-
biatijlore.—A very curious plant,
with scarlet flowers, and a prickly
stem. It requires a warm green-
house, in which the heat should be
at an average of 47°, and it should
be grown in a compost of peat, loam,
and sand, in equal propertions ;
abundance of water should be given |
in summer, but very little in winter, |
as itis easily killed if kept too damp. |

Barto‘nta.—Loasdcee.—B. at-
red is a splendid annual, with gold-
en-yellow flowers, which have quite
a metallic lustre when thesun shines
upon them. The seed-pod is cu-
riously twisted. Like all the Cali-
fornian annuals, it is very apt to
die off if the roots become at all
withered by drought, or if the collar
of the plant be exposed to the full
heat of the sun; and thus it does
best when grown in masses, so that
the ground may be quite covered
with its leaves. B. albéscens has
greenish-white flowers, and is not
worth growing.

Bast, oR Bass.—The inner bark
of the lime-tree, separated by steep-
ing the bark in water till it can he
readily pulled asunder into ribands
or strands ; these are hung up for
some monthsin the shade to dry, and
they are then woven into mats. The
manufacture of these matsis confined
to Russia, and some parts of Sweden,
where the name for bark is bast.

Bastard Acacta.—SeeRosi'Ni.

BASTARD SAFFRON.—See Ca’r-
THAMUS.

Bata‘tas.—The Sweet Potato: a
kind of Convolvulus, the root of
which is eaten.

Bavuw'inta. — Leguinindse, —
Mountain Ebony. Stove shrubs,

BEDS FOR FLOWERS,

mostly with white flowers, and re-
markable for their leaves always
being produced in twins; on which
account the genus was named in
compliment to J. and C. Bauhin,
both eminent botanists.
Bay Tree.—See Lav’rus.
BeaD TREE.—See Me'LiA.
BEAUFO’RTIA. -— Myrtacee. —
Splendid New Holland shrubs, with
searlet and red flowers ; free growers
and abundant flowerers, and well
adapted either for planting out in a
conservatory, or growing in pots.
The best soil is sandy loam and
peat, well drained; and cuttings,
taken off with a small portion of
half-ripened wood, root freely in
sand, under a bell-glass. B. de-
cussata, which produces its scarlet
flowers from May to July, is one of
the handsomest species.
BEeaumo’ntIA Wal.—A pocynee.
—Climbing shrubs from the East
Indies, of elegant foliage and large
white flowers; of easy culture in the
stove, and propagated by cuttings
either of the stem or roots. The
best soil is sandy loam, mixed with
rotten dung or leaf-mould. By
careful management they may be
made to flower in the open air. —
See ALLAMA’NDA.
Be'cluM.—JLabiate.—An Abys-
sinian shrub, with white flowers,
and long, projecting, violet-coloured
style and stamen. It is a half-
hardy plant, and flowers in autumn
and winter, if kept at a temperature
of 40° or 45°,
BEDEGUAR. — A disease which
affects the Rose-tree.—See Cr'n1ps.
Beps ror FLowErs.—Divisions
of a flower-garden, which are formed
in different figures, and which are
generally covered with a mass of
flowers of one kind, or at least of
one colour, though sometimes they
contain single plants, or small tufts
of plants and flowers, at regular

|

|
;

|
|

|

BEGONIA.

32

BELLIS.

distances, with naked spaces show- ‘soil. One of the finest species is B.

ing the soil between. The plants
most suitable for completely covering
flower-beds are trailers and creep-
ers; and those for standing singly
at regular distances, are erect plants,
which have their flowers in termi-
nal spikes, corymbs, or umbels ; or
compact-growing plants, which
make neat little bushes, entirely
covered with flowers. The stems
of the plants often require to be
pegged down with hooked sticks, so
as to cover every part of the bed
equally ; and in wet seasons, when
the plants are apt to run too much
to leaves, the tips of the shoots
should be taken off. The beds in-
tended for trailing plants will only
require a thin stratum of soil ; but
those intended for tall, vigorous
plants, ought to have a deep soil.

Bre LarKspur.—See DEepirur’-
NIUM.

Bee O’rcuts.—O'phrys apifera.
—The plants belonging to the genus
Ophrys have all a remarkable re-
semblance in their appearance to an
insect nestling in the flower, and
hence they take their generic name.

Beriria. — Lricdcece. — A very
beautiful plant with large bell-
shaped rose-coloured flowers. It is
a native of South America, and in
its native country it forms a shrub
from six feet to eight feet high.
There are several species, most of
which have rose-coloured flowers ;
but onespecies, B. Mathéwsii, has the
flowers a pale yellow or a purewhite,

Broonia. — Begoniacee. —Tro-
pical under- shrubs or herbaceous
plants, some of which require the
stove, and others the greenhouse.
The flowers are showy, pink or
white, and the leaves are succulent,
oblique at the base, and red under-
neath. Many of the herbaceous
kinds have tuberous roots, and
all should be grown in a rich light

octopétala, but it is rather rare.
B. discolor, which has the leaves
beautifully veined with crimson
underneath, is the commonest kind,
and it thrives in the greenhouse, or
in a room, throwing out numerous
suckers, each with a small tuberous
root, which only require separating
from the parent and potting, to be-
come fresh plants. The only objec-
tion to the culture of this species is,
that it is very apt to be infested with
the red spider. (See A’carus.) When
planted out in the summer season,
it continues to produce flowers for
several months. B. fuchsiides is
a very remarkable species, which
was introduced, in 1846, from the
mountains of New Granada. At
first sight it resembles a Fuchsia
(hence its specific name); in its
native country the flowers, which
are of a most agreeable acid, are
frequently eaten by the mule-dri-
vers to allay their thirst, which is
excessive in the dry season, as there
aré very few rivers. The leaves are
small, and less coarse than those of
most of the other species of the genus.
BELLADO’/NNA.—One ofthe names
for A’tropa Belladénna, the Deadly
Nightshade.
BELLADO’NNA Lity.—See AmA-
RY’LLIS.
BELL-FLOWER.—See CAMPA’NULA.
Breti-Guass.—A glass cylinder,
with a globular top, used for cover-
ing tender cuttings or seedlings. It
differs from a hand-glass in being
allin one piece; whereas a hand-
glass consists of several pieces
fixed in aframe of lead, wood, or iron.
Be’Luis. — Composite. — The
Daisy —Well-known perennials, of
which B. perénnis, the common
Daisy, has been in cultivation in
British and continental gardens
from time immemorial. The most
beautiful varieties are the large

| a tube or vessel for

BELVIDERE.

double, the large quilled, and the |

hen-and-chickens, but there are
many others. In Germany, nume-
rous curious varieties have been
raised by saving the seed of the
handsomest kinds. Each sort is

| much improved by being taken up,

divided, and replanted three or
four times every season. They are
all admirable plants for making
edgings to borders, and they are
well suited for growing in pots,
though at present they are almost
neglected. They thrive best in a
loamy soil, richly manured, which

| should be dug over and well broken

before planting ; and they will bear
transplanting even when in flower,
provided they are taken up with a
portion of soil attached. No plants
are better adapted for covering a
bed with one mass of colour. Masses
of any of the kinds of Daisies may
be brought from the reserve ground
and Jaid down on a bed in the
flower-garden, when just coming
into flower, and taken back again
to make room for other plants,
when they have gone out of flower.

| Wireworms, which, as it is known,

are extremely destructive to Pinks
and Carnations, are said to be so
fond of Daisies, as never to touch
any other flower when they are
near.

BELLOWS FOR FUMIGATION.—
A machine composed of the common
bellows, or patent blower, used for
blowing fires, with the addition of
containing
tobacco, pierced with holes. The
tobacco is placed in this vessel, and,
being lighted, the air is blown
through it, till a sufficient quantity
of smoke is forced out to fill the
pit, frame, or house which is to be
fumigated for the destruction of
insects,

BELVIDERE, or Summer Cypress.
—See Ko'cura.

33

BERGAMOT.

BenTHA ‘MIA. — Corndceea. — A
very handsome evergreen shrub,
with large white showy flowers,
which are succeeded by scarlet
fruit, having the appearance of a
large strawberry. It is somewhat
tender, and, north of London, it
requires a wall. It thrives best in
loam, and may be propagated by
layers, cuttings, or seeds, which it
produces in abundance.

Br’/RBERIS. — Berberidew.— The
Berberry.—Deciduous shrubs, na-
tives of Europe, North America,
and Nepal, several of the species of
which are very ornamental. JB.
vulgaris, the common Berberry, is
a most elegant plant when trained
toa single stem, and then allowed
to expand its head freely on every
side : so treated, the branches be-
come drooping, and have a fine
effect in spring, when they are
covered with their rich yellow blos-
soms ; and in autumn, from their
long red fruit. The Nepal species
are B. asidtica, a robust plant with
coarsely- -veined. leaves, short ra-
cemes of flowers, and purplish fruit,
which is very good to eat, and
which is covered with a fine bloom:
B. aristata is less robust, with
glossy, fine-veined leaves, and long
racemes of flowers; JB. floribinda
has long racemes of small flowers,
and large leaves; and B. coriaria has |
short racemes of large flowers, and
finely-veined lanceolate leaves, and
red fruit. All these species have
bright-yellow flowers, which appear
in spring, and are very ornamental.
They are also all quite hardy,
thriving in any common soil, and
easily propagated by ripened cut-
tings, layers, suckers,” or seeds.—
See Mano'nra.

Br/RBERRY.—See BE/RBERIS.

Bercamot.—The true Bergamot
is an exotic plant, called Mondrda
didyma; but bass ie is also a Ber-

D

Seed

BILLARDIERA.

gamot Mint (Méntha citrata), which
smells nearly the same.
BIENNIALS.—Plants that do not
produce their flowers till the second
year, and then die after they have
ripened their seeds. The Bromp-
ton Stocks, MHollyhocks, Wall-
flowers, Snapdragons, and Canter-
bury-bells, are also generally con-
sidered biennials, though some
of them live three or four
years. Biennials should be sown

| in March or April, thinned out in
_ May, and transplanted in September
| to the place where they are to flower

the ensuing year. A little earth
should be taken up with the roots,
when they are transplanted, and
they should be well watered, and
shaded for a day or two, till they

| are thoroughly established. Those
| kinds which require a peculiar soil,

should have pits prepared for them
about a week before they are trans-
planted, that the earth may have
time to setile.

Bieno'NIA.— Bignoniacece.—The
Bignonias or Trumpet-flowers once
formed a very large and splendid
genus, chiefly of climbers, from
tropical countries, and remarkable
for their large, brilliant-coloured
flowers. Many of the species have,
however, been now removed to the
genera Técoma and Spathddea.
Most of the plants which are still
called Bignonia require the hot-
house, but some will thrive in the
greenhouse, and one, B. capreolata,
is hardy. JB. veniista is one of the
handsomest hothouse species, and
when planted in the free soil, it
will produce its pale orange flowers
during the greater part of the sum-
mer. They are all of easy culture,
requiring chiefly abundance of room,
and cuttings of them all root readily
in sand.—See Tr’coma.

BILBERRY.—NSee VAcci/NIUM.

34

BITTER-SWEET.

Appleberry.—Climbing, half-hardy
shrubs, natives of Australia, with
bell-shaped flowers, and long berry-
like fruit which tastes like roasted
apples. The beautiful plant now
called Sdéllya was at first supposed
to belong to this genus. For the
culture, see AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

BINDWEED.—The common Bind-
weed (Convélvulus sepium L. ; Caly-
stégia sepium R. Br.), with large
white flowers, and not unfrequent in
hedges, is one of the most ornamen-
tal of British twiners; but in gardens
it has this disadvantage, that its
roots or rather underground shoots,
spread rapidly, and are very dificult
to eradicate.

Birps are generally considered
enemies of gardens, and some kinds,
as the common sparrow (when seeds,
which are their usual food, are
scarce), are apt to live upon buds,
especially blossom-buds, as being
the largest; and others live upon
fruits. As, however, all the soft-
billed kinds, which constitute the
great majority of singing-birds found
in our gardens, live upen insects,
especially on the aphides, and the
caterpillars or grubs of moths, flies,
and beetles, they are rather to be
considered as advantageous to gar-
dens than otherwise.

BrrD CHERRY.—Cérasus Padus.
—See Cr’/RASUS.

Brrpd’s-EYE Primrose.—Primula
farindsa.—A very neat little plant,
when cultivated in peat soil and kept
moist.

BIRD’s- FOOT TREFOIL. — See

Lo‘rus.
BrIrRTHWORT.—See ARISTOLO'CHIA.
Biscurr/Lua. — Crucifere. —

Buckler Mustard.—Hardy annuals
with yellow flowers, natives of Eu-
rope, which only require sowing in
the open border in March or April.

BITTER-SWEET. — Solanum Dul-

BILLARDIE'RA. — Pittosporee.— | camara.—An indigenous climbing

BLITUM. 35 BORDER.

| shrub, with pretty flowers and red| BLoop-FLOWER.—See H z=aa’n-

|

| berries, common in hedges. | THUS.
BITTER-VETCH.—See O’ROBUS. BLUEBOTTLE.— See CENTAURE'A,
BLACKBERRY. — The common BLUMENBA‘CHIA. — Loasdcew. —

| name of the bramble.—See Ru'sus. | Dwarf annuals, with pretty white

Brack Brrony.—See Bryony. | flowers, and very curiously twisted
BLADDER Kermia. — Hibiscus | seed-pods, which only require sowing

| Tridonum and Africdnus.— Hardy | in the open border in April. There

_ annuals, natives of Italy and Bar- | is, however, one drawback to their
| bary. The seeds should be sown in | general cultivation, which is, that

March or April.—See ANNUALS. | they sting as badly as a nettle.
BLADDER Nut.—SeeStTaPHYLE'A. Bog Earta.—See Pzar and
BLADDER SENNA.—See CoLu'TEA. | HEATH MouLp.

BLANDFO’/RDIA. — Hemerocalli- BoNAPA/RTEA.—See Lytrz'A.

_ dew.—Showy plants with scarlet, Borace.—See Bora‘ao.

yellow, and green tube-like flowers, Bora‘co.— Boraginee.—Annual

natives of New South Wales, of | and perennial plants, with blue,
_ which B. nébilis, B. fammea, and | white, or pink flowers, nearly allied
| B. grandiflora well deserve culture. | to the Forget-me-not. Natives of
| Both species ought to be grown in| the South of Europe and Persia; of

| sandy loam and peat; and they are

easy culture in any common soil.

_ increased by seeds or suckers. Borper.—A border differs from

BLESSED THISTLE.—See CENTAU- he bed in having a walk only on one
RE‘A. side ; and an ornamental border, in

Bie‘t1a.— Orchiddacec. —Showy | which flowers or shrubs, or both, are
plants, natives of the tropics, and re- | grown, ought to have the plants so

| quiring stove-heat in Britain. They | arranged in regard to height and

should be grown in sandy loam and | distance, as to have them seen to the
peat ; and they are propagated by | greatest advantage from the walk.

| division of the roots. For this purpose the lowest-growing

Buicat.—A popular term for the | plants should be placed in front, and

| sudden injuries which plants receive, | the highest kinds behind them, and
| apparently from the weather, but in | the distance between the different
| reality from the attacks of insects, | plants should be proportioned to
| or the growth of parasitic fungi. In | their breadth, not to their height ;

_ general, whenever the progress of | because a very tall-growing plant,
| plants is suddenly arrested by some | such as the common Lily, is some-

cause not understood, itis attributed | times a very narrow one, and a low
to blight. Blight differs from mil- | bushy plant, such as the Peony,
dew, which is always a fungus, in the | is sometimes three times as broad as
latter exhibiting a white, bluish, or | itishigh. Hence, ina border which
mouldy appearance. is to be composed of a great variety

Bur'tuM.—Chenopodiacee.—An- | of flowers, the plants cannot be placed
nuals of the easiest culture, of no | inrows, orat regular distances ; but
beauty with respect to the flowers, | a space must be apportioned to each
but remarkable for the showy ap- | plant according to its width; keeping

pearance of their spikes of succulent |in view the necessity of always |
| scarlet fruit. The English names | leaving a clear space of a few inches

of the species are Strawberry and | round every plant, whether large or
Spinach Blite. small. With regard to the mode of

Des

| ders, with reference to the colour of |
_ should be left round each ; and that

| easy to carry it out into practice |
| without the assistance of a reserve |

BORDER.

36

BOTANIC GARDEN.

arranging herbaceous plants in bor- |

their flowers and time of flowering,
the object ought to be to have an |
equal number of plants in flower in
each of the floral months ; and among
the plants of each month to have as
nearly as possible an equal number of |
each of the principal colours. This |
is the beau idéal shes the cultivator
should keep in view ; but it is not |

|

garden, and a number of plants in |
pots, that can be substituted for any |
plant which perhaps has not come |
into flower sufficiently soon, or |
which has not produced a sufficient |

quantity of flowers. The best mode

is to make a plan of the border,

and then to mark it with circles in

the desired colours. When this has |
been done, the names of two or|
three flowers, of the proper size and |
colour for the situation, should be
written in each circle; and then |
there will be no trouble in planting |
the bed, as it will be only necessary
to refer to the plan to know what |
flowers are wanted. When this is
not done, and the flowers are planted
at random, they will require taking
up with a ball of earth attached to |
each when in flower, and shifting
about till a proper effect is pro- |
duced. When the plants named in
the circles continue only a short
time in flower, the names of others
should be given to fill their place
when they are out of bloom; and |
in this case the circles may be num-
bered, and the numbers referred to
a book, in which the names of all |
the suitable plants and all necessary
particulars respecting them may be
inscribed. As a concise summary
of the distinctions between a bed
and a border in a flower garden, it |
may be observed that in a bed the |
flowering plants should be trained

so as completely to cover the ground,
while in a border, a distinct space

a bed has a walk all round it, while
in a border there is a walk only on
one side,

Borprer FLowers.—Herbaceous
plants of hardy constitution, showy
in appearance, and of easy culture,
and therefore well adapted for or-
namenting the borders of flower
gardens. Border flowers are classed
as perennials with fibrous roots,
perennials with bulbous or tuberous
roots, biennials, and hardy annuals.
Among the fibrous-rooted perennials
are some, such as certain species of
Saxifrage, Pinks, Carnations, &c.,
which are evergreen ; and these are
most desirable plants for the borders
of winter gardens. ‘There are also
some evergreen biennials, such as
Wallflowers, Stock Gillyflowers, &c.

Boro'nra. — Rutacee. — Ever-

_green New Holland Shrubs, which

flower during the greater part of the
summer, and which are all very
ornamental. B. serruldta is a most
desirable species, forming a neat
compact plant for a room, or green-
house, and requiring plenty of light
and air, but very little heat. It,
and all the other species, will grow
freely in sandy peat, well drained,
and they may be propagated by
layers or cuttings of the young wood
in sand, under a bell-glass, taking
care to wipe the glass frequently,
so as to keep the cuttings free from
damp.

Botanic GARDEN.—A garden in |

which the plants are arranged ac-
cording to some system of botanical

| science, only one of a kind being

planted, and a name appended to
each. The most convenient mode

| for study is to place the plants in

straight rows of narrow beds, one
row in a bed, with paths between

| the beds; but the best mode for

BOX-EDGINGS. 3

7

BROMPTON STOCKS.

| effect is to place them in groups of

one order, tribe, or genus, in a
group. These groups have the best
effect when of a circular form, and
placed ona lawn. ‘The position of
the groups relatively to each other
should be such as to correspond
with the botanical system followed.

BorroM-HEAT is the warmth
imparted to the roots of plants, by
plunging the pots in which they
grow into a hotbed or bark-pit.

| The effect this produces in stimu-

lating the plants is very great;
and it is particularly advantageous
in striking those cuttings which,
under ordinary circumstances, do
not readily throw out roots. Bottom-

| heat is often very useful in enabling
_ hothouse plants to stand in the

open air during summer. A bed
may be formed of bark, decayed
leaves, or stable manure, in which
the pots may be plunged, and the
surface covered with a thin coating
of turf; and in this manner all the
hothouse climbers might be trained
over the trellis-work of a verandah,

_and Palms, Bananas, and other
| tropical plants might be made to

decorate the open ground of an
English garden.

Bouva’rpia. — Rubidcee. — B,
triphylla and its varieties are very
ornamental, with scarlet flowers and
smooth shining leaves. It grows
freely in loam and peat in a warm
situation in the open air, or in a
greenhouse ; and it is increased by
cuttings of the roots. DB. versicolor
has fine red flowers and is very
ornamental, though it is more tender
than B. triphylla.

BowERs.—Slight arbours, formed
by training climbing shrubs over
trellis-work so as to form a covered
seat. They only differ from arbours
in being less closely covered.—See
ARBOURS.

Box-EDGines.—The kind of Box

| used for this purpose is Béxus sem-
pervirens nana. For its culture,
see Bu’xus.
Box-TREE.—See Bu’xvs.
BracHy’COME. — Compéstte. —
The great Swan River Daisy.—A

very beautiful annual plant from the |

banks of the Swan River in South
Australia. It was introduced in
1840, and grows freely in the open
ground, though it flowers best in the
greenhouse, being easily injured by
wet.
flowers are of several different
shades, varying from the darkest
purple to a pink or white.

BracHyse’Ma. —Legumindse. —
BP. latifolium is a very ornamental
New Holland climber, with fine large
glaucous leaves and crimson flowers ;
and it grows freeiy in loam and peat,
flowering abundantly, and ripening
seeds ; by which, or by layers or cui-
tings, it may be readily propagated.

BRAMBLE.—See Ru'‘sus.

BRILLANTA‘ISIA.— A canthacee.—
B. Owariénsis is a very showy stove
plant with purple sage-like flowers,
which appear in March. It is a
native of Sierra Leone.

Brr'za.— Graminee.— Quaking-
grass.—B. média, the common kind,
is a perennial; and B. mdéxima, a
gigantic species, is an annual, re-
quiring only to be sown in March or
April, in the open borders.

Brompton Stocks.—Maithiola
incana.—These splendid flowers are
biennials, and their seed should be
sown early in May, in a border of
light sandy soil with an eastern
exposure, and never in front of a
hothouse or south wall, as they can-
not bear too much heat. The seeds
should be sown very thinly in narrow
drills, made about six inches apart.
As soon as the plants begin to grow,
and have expanded their second pair
of leaves, they should be watered
every evening with a watering-pot

When raised from seed, the |

9

BROWALLIA. ts)

8 BRYONY.

|

or garden-engine having a very fine | _ Bro'wnga. — Legumindse. — |
This is a genus of rather singular —

rose. When the plants are about |

| three inches high, they should be
_ thinned out so as to be at least six

|

| should be carefully replanted in |

inches apart, and the plants removed

another bed. In about a month’s
time they should be thinned again, |
and the alternate rows taken up, so |

_as to leave the remaining plants

about a foot apart every way ; the
plants removed being taken up with

_ balls of earth, and carefully trans-

| sary.
post should be formed of very |

planted, watered, and shaded till)

they have re-established themselves.
Great care is necessary in trans-
planting, as the Stocks have long
tap-roots, with very few fibrils at-
tached. When the plants are wanted
to be very fine, they may be pro-
tected during winter by hoops and
mats, or hand-glasses; but in

| general this is not thought neces-
> co

In March or April a com-

_ sandy loam, or sand enriched with
_ the remains of an old hotbed, or

vegetable mould, formed of decayed
leaves; and pits about two feet deep

| and two feet in diameter dug in the

flower-borders and filled with it, into
which the Stocks should be trans-
planted, with as large balls of earth

_ attached as can be taken up. They
| should be carefully shaded and

watered till they have taken root;
and afterwards they should be wa-
tered every night till they come into
flower. Thus treated, the spikes

_ of flowers will sometimes be from
_ eighteen inches to two feet long, and
proportionably thick.

Broom.—See Spa’rtium and
Genr’sTA.

Browa’Liia.—Scrophuldrine, or |
Solandcee.—South American tender |

| annuals, generally with blue flowers,
| requiring to be raised on a hotbed,

and generally grown in pots.—See
ANNUALS.

of Jamaica. B. coccinea is a very

flowers, which only lastabout twenty-
is a native of Jamaica, whence it

was introduced in 1793, though it
did not flower till February 1842,

duction.

Bruema’nsta. — Solandcee. —
Peruvian shrubs, or low succulent-
stemmed trees, of which B. suavéo-

Datira arborea), and B.sanguinea,
are magnificent species. Being large

vatory ; but they will grow well in
large pots :

season, and taken up and preserved

length, and very fragrant.

soil: and they are readily propa-
gated by cuttings either of the shoots
or roots.

BRuNSFE'LsIA.— Scrophularine.
—-Handsome stove-plants, natives of
South America and the West Indies.
EB. nitida has large yellow flowers,
which it produces copiously the
whole of the summer months ina
cool stove or warm greenhouse.
is an erect shrub, growing four or
five ‘feet high, and is readily in-
creased by cuttings.

Bryony.

| Bryony common in English woods,

Brro'nia.— Cucurbitacew.— See |

Bryony.—There are two kinds of |

plants, named in honour of Dr. Pa- |
_ trick Browne, author of the History —

singular plant, with large crimson |

four hours before they drop off. It |

nearly fifty years after its intro- |

lens (better known by the name of |

plants, growing to the height of ten |
or twelve feet, they look best when |
planted in the ground, in a conser- |

or they may be planted ©
in the open garden in the summer |

in a back shed, from which the frost |
is excluded, during winter, to be |
replaced in the open border the |
following spring. The flowers are |
trumpet-shaped, a foot or more in |
The |
plants grow freely in light rich ©

It |

:
:

|

BUCKLER MUSTARD.

39

BUDDING.

very different in the eyes of a bo-|
tanist, but bearing considerable re-
semblance to each other in the eyes
of anamateur. They are both found
wild in hedges and thickets, through
which they contrive to insinuate
their long slender stems and
branches, hanging from tree to tree ;
they have both “greenish- -white in-
conspicuous flowers; the fruit of
both consists of bunches of showy
red berries; and they have tuberous |
roots, of a very acrid nature. They
are also dicecious; but this is the
only botanical resemblance between
them. The White Bryony (Brydnia |
dioica) belongs to the natural order |
Cucurbitacez, andit is the only Bri-
tish plant belonging to that order.
Its leaves are rough and palmate ;
its flowers have a calyx and acorolla, |
both of which are five-cleft, and its

stem is climbing and furnished with |
numerous tendrils. The Black

Bryony (Tamus comminis) has, on |
the contrary, smooth, shining, heart-
shaped leaves of a very deep and
glossy green ; the flowers consist of
only one covering, which is six-cleft,
and the stem is twining without
tendrils. The names of black and
white Bryony allude to the colour of
the skin covering the thick fleshy
roots, which in one species is black
and in the other white. The root
of the White Bryony may easily be

made to grow in any shape that
may be wished, by placing it when
young in an earthenware mould.
This curious property was formerly
frequently taken advantage of by
designing people, who, having thus
obtained roots of frightful forms,
exhibited them for money as natural
curiosities.

Buck-5YE.—The American name
for the smooth-fruited Horse-chest-
nut.—See Pa‘via.

Buck er Mustarp.—See Biscv-
TE/LLA.

BucKTHORN.—See RuA/MNUS.

_ BUDDING is an operation for pro-
pagating ligneous plants, as a substi-
tute, in particular cases, for graft-
ing, or other modes of propagation.
In floriculture, it is more partic
larly used for propagating select
species of Roses. The time of per-
forming the operation is from July
to September ; and the mode is as
follows :—The first thing to be done
is to select a young shoot of the cur-
rent year, from which the bud is to
be taken, and a stock of one or of
several years’ growth, into which
the bud is to be inserted. The bud
is cut out with a portion of the bark
and the wood attached above and

| below the foot-stalk of a leaf, in the

axil of which leaf the bud is situated.
To do this, a sharp peuknife or
budding-knife is inserted in the
shoot, about three-fourths of an
inch below the bud, and passed up
beneath the bud to about half an
inch above it; the bud, with the
bark and wood to which it is at-
tached, is then held in the left hand,
and wita a knife in the right hand
the thin film of wood is quickly
picked out, leaving the bud attached
to a piece of bark, technically called
the shield. A slit is then made in
the back of the stock, about one-
third of an inch in length, anda
transverse cut is made within one-
fourth of an inch of the upper part
of the longitudinal slit. The bark
is opened on both sides of the longi-
tudinal slit by means of a thin flat
piece of bone or ivory ; or, in Nur-
sery practice, with the end of the
handle of the knife, which is made
thin on purpose. The bud is now
inserted in its natural position, with
the bud looking upwards, and a
portion of the upper part of the
bark to which the bud is attached
is cut across, so as to fit to the
transverse cut which was formed in

BUDDING.

the stock. The bud is made fast
in its situation by tying it with a
strand or ribbon of bast matting.
This being done in summer or
autumn, the matting remains on for

a month or six weeks, according to |

circumstances, till the back of the
bud shows, by its healthy appear-
ance, that a vital union has taken
place. The matting may now be

loosened, and in a week or two alto-
gether removed. By another mode,
differing a little from the above, the

FIG. 1.—COMMON OR SHIELD-BUDDING.

cut across is made below the slit, as
shown in jig. 1, in which d shows
the cuts made in the stock, e the
bud inserted, and f the bast mat
applied.

Niche-budding is when the wood is
retained in the bud, as shown in jig. 2,

FIG. 2.—NICHE-BUDDING.

in which g is the prepared stock ; ¢
the bud turned to show the wood, and
a b the bud applied, which should
afterwards be bound with bast mat,
as before. In placing the bud on
the stock in niche-budding, the prin-
cipal thing to be attended to is, to

40

BUDDING.

bring the horizontal edges of the
base of the niche in the stock, and
those of the bud which is to fit into
it, into the most perfect contact pos-
sible ; because the union is produced,
not as in common summer budding,
by the junction of the soft wood of
the stock with the rudiment of the
soft wood on the inside of the bark
of the bud, but by the junction of
soft wood with soft wood, asin com-
mon grafting. This mode cf bud-
ding will always succeed best when
the niche in the stock is made where
there is already a bud (as shown at
g), waking the horizontal cut
through the base of the bud.

Another mode is called annular
flute-budding, in which a branch or
shoot is chosen on the tree which is
to be propagated, as thick as, or
thicker than, the stock in which the
bud is to be inserted. A ring of
bark including a bud is then cut off
from the branch of the shrub which
is to be propagated, and detached by
splitting it longitudinally on one
side. A similar ring of bark is then
detached from the stock, and the
former inserted in its place, and tied
on with matting. This mode of
budding is found particularly suit-
able for all trees or shrubs having
thick bark. There are many other
kinds of budding, but these are in
the most general use.

It sometimes happens in the case
of Roses, that the bud will produce
a shoot the same season in which it
has been inserted; but it more fre-
quently remains dormant till the
following spring. At this period the
stock should be cut overa few inches
above the bud; and the shoot, as it
grows, should be slightly tied to the
portion of the stock left on above
the bud, in order to prevent it from
being injured by high winds. The

second year this portion of the stock

may be cut off close to the bud,

|
{
|
:
|
i

BUDDLEA.

Buds may be inserted in stocks at
afew inches from the ground: in
which case, the plants produced are
called dwarfs ; or in straight stems

| at four, five, or six feet from the
' ground: in which case the plants
_ produced are called standards. The
latter is the most common mode of
_ budding Roses and Orange trees ; but
| other shrubs and trees of rare or

ornamental kinds are commonly
budded within a foot, or afew inches
from the ground. Sometimes buds of
several kinds are inserted in the
same stock; and sometimes buds

_ are inserted in branches in different

parts of the tree, for the sake either

_of supplying vacant places in the

_ branches, or of producing several

| kinds on the same tree.
| climbing British Roses, several vari-
_ eties of Chinese Roses may be bud-

_ the same natural order.

Thus, on

ded ; and on the single red Camel-

| lia, several varieties of double red or
_ white Camellias.

In all cases of budding, it is essen-
tial that the stock shall not be very
different from the bud to be inserted
init. In some cases it is even ne-
cessary that the bud and the stock
should be of the same species; while,
on the other hand, it sometimes hap-
pens that a bud may be inserted
successfully in any stock which is of
Thus the
Lilac, the Orange, and the Fringe-

_ tree may be budded on the common

Ash; all the four species being of

_ the same natural order, Oledcee.

Roses and Thorns are the plants to

which budding is most commonly
| applied by amateurs ; and the finer
_ kinds of the former genus are gene-
_ rally budded on wild briars of the

Dog Rose, and of the latter (Cra-

_ te‘gus), on the common Hawthorn.
3

;
}
;

| Deciduous or

|
:

|

Bu’DDLeEA. — Scrophuldrine. —
evergreen shrubs,

_ natives of India or South America,

of which one species, B. globdsa, is

41

BULBS.

worth culture in the shrubbery. It
has fine golden-yellow,
flowers, grows in any common soil,
and is tolerably hardy, though it is
sometimes killed by a very severe
frost. It is readily increased by
cuttings under a hand-glass. 2B,
Lindleyana is the handsomest spe-
cies of the genus. The flowers are
produced in a long spike; and are
purple.

Buss are plants which belong |

to a particular division of vegetables,
having certain peculiarities which
require a particular mode of culture.
They are all, with scarcely a single
exception, very ornamental, from the
large size of their flowers in propor-
tion to the entire plants, and from
the brilliancy of their colours. Their
principal peculiarity is, that they

produce but a limited number of |

ball-like |

leaves every season ; and hence, if |
these leaves are cutofforinjured, no |

new leaves are produced that season.
In all other herbaceous plants, when
the leaves are destroyed, fresh leaves
are produced to a comparatively un-
limited extent; and hence, if the
season be long enough, the plant may
produce a sufficiency of foliage in the
current year to enable it to mature
flowers in the next. But in bulbs

the case is different ; the leaves pro- |
duced are very few, and if they are |
shortened before they are fully |

grown, or cut off before they begin
to decay, the bulb is deprived of
nourishment to such an extent, as
either not to flower at all the follow-
ing season, or to flower very weakly.
Thus the great art in the culture of
bulbs is to preserve all their leaves
uninjured, to expose them fully to
the sun and air, and by no means to
cut them off till they have begun to
decay at the extremities. By far
the greater number of bulbs flower
in spring, and produce their flower-
stems immediately after they begin

BULBS.

to grow ; andshortly after they have |
flowered they cease growing and re- |
main dormant and without leaves |
during the remainder of the year.
Hence almost all bulbs require to be
planted in autumn; and hence, also,
they require a free, dry, and some-
what rich soil, into which their roots
may penetrate easily, and procure
nourishment without difficulty for
their rapidly-growing leaves. The
bulb is in all cases strengthened by
preventing the flowers from pro-
ducing seeds; and in most cases it
ought to be taken up as soon as the
leaves have decayed, and preserved in
dry sand or earth, and in some cases
on shelves, or in papers in a dry room,
till the planting season in autumn.
Bulbs which are indigenous to Bri-
tain, such as those of the common
wild Hyacinth, and some of the
Narcissi, receive little injury from
remaining in the ground all the year ;
but improved varieties of indigenous
bulbs, and all bulbs from warm
climates, such as those of the Hya-
cinth, the Ixias, &c., are greatly
injured by the moisture of our sum-
mers ; and when left in the ground,
require the interposition of art to
keep the soil tolerably dry, till
bulbs have increased by means of

| their offsets, so as to form a dense

mass. From the circumstance of
bulbs growing with great rapidity
when in a state of vegetation, they
require abundance of water ; and this
is the reason why the soil in which
they are planted should always be
deep, so as to retain moisture. A
bulb is essentially a bud, and con-
tains within itself the germs of the
leaves and flowers which are to be
produced the following season. In
plants belonging to the other divi-
sion of vegetables, those with netted
leaves, or what are called Dicotylé-

42

BULBS.

creased care and nourishment, be
made to flower in the course of the
season ; but this is by no means the
case with bulbs, not one additional
leaf or flower being in their case
capable of being produced during
the season that is not previously in
an embryo state in the bulb. Thus,
in one sense bulbs are of more easy
culture than any other class of

plants ; because the germ being pre- |

viously formed, and the nourishment
being provided in the body of the
bulb, it is only necessary to supply
heat and moisture to cause these to
develope. Hence, the practice of
growing bulbs of Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissi, Crocuses, Irises, Snow-
drops, Fritillarias, &c., placed over

water in glasses, or vessels of earth- |

enware, or in moist moss. Bulbs
never last more than one year, a
new one forming every season after

the plant has done flowering, as the ©

old bulb wastes away. Hence new
bulbs are formed every year in the
Tulip and the Hyacinth, at the side
of the old bulb ; in the Crocus and
the Gladiolus, and many of the
Cape Iridacez, over the old bulb ;
and in the bulbous Irises, &c.,
under the old bulb. Hence in the
cultivation of bulbs in the open
garden, thereis a constant tendency
in some species to sink deeply into
the ground, and in others to rise to
the surface, which must be care-
fully counteracted by the cultivator,
by taking up and replanting ; thus,

the bulbous Iris, when left three or |

four years in the ground, produces
weak leaves, and ceases to flower
freely, from the sinking of the bulbs;
the Crocus, on the other hand, pro-
duces weak flowers and leaves from
the bulbs rising above the surface;
and the Tulip, if left in the ground
for a few years, in consequence of

dones, a plant which is weak in the | the bulb being always produced at

beginning of the year may, by in- |

one side, is never found to come up

BUPLEURUM.

twice exactly in the same spot. Ex-
perience proves, that certain bulbs
which are in a state far removed
from wild nature require the greatest
care to preserve them from disease,
such as the cultivated Hyacinth.
These, therefore, must be taken up
every year, and carefully preserved;
while others, comparatively incapa-
ble of much cultivation, such as the
Snowdrop, may be left in the ground
anumber of years without injury.
Bulbs are generally propagated by
little bulbs, produced by the side of

| the old ones, which are called off-

sets; but, like all other plants,

| they may be propagated by seeds,

and from these, in the case of the
Crocus and Hyacinth, the Crown
Imperial, ‘ris Xiphium, and [ris
Xiphioides, an endless number of
beautiful varieties may be produced.
This furnishes a fine source of inter-
esting amusement to the amateur.
The seeds should be sown in beds of
light earth, where the plants may
remain till they come into flower,
which will generally be in from
three to five years. The soil for
almost all bulbs should be a free
sandy loam, and the situation open,
and fully exposed to the sun.
Buisoco'pium. — Melanthacee.

_ — Bulbous plants, natives of Spain

and the Crimea ; flowering in March
and August, and of easy culture in
loamy soil. B. vérnum, which does
not grow above four inches in height,
is a desirable plant for growing ina

| pot.

Butsoco‘p1umM.—The Hoop-pet-
ticoat Narcissus.—A pretty little
species, not above six inches high.

Bueiev'rum. — Umbellifere. —
Hare’s-ear. — Herbaceous planis,
with greenish-yellow flowers, and
very glaucous or bluish leaves.
They are natives of Europe, and
will grow in any common garden-
soil.

45

BUTTERFLIES.

by some botanists in this genus;
but they were separated by Spren-
gel, and formed into the genus
Tenoria. These are rather tender,
being natives of the shores of the
Mediterranean and the Cape of Good
Hope; but near London they will
bear ordinary winters in the open

air. They should be grown in sandy
loam.
Burto'n1a. — Legumindscee. —

New Holland shrubs, of which B.
conferta was the first species intro-
duced. It grows to the height of
two feet, and produces its violet-
coloured flowers from July to Sep-
tember. B. pulchella is, however,
far more beautiful. It has heath-
like leaves, and clusters of very
large bright scarlet flowers at the
end of the branches. It is a native
of the Swan River settlement, and
was introduced in 1848. For its
culture, see AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

ButcHEr’s Broom. —See Rv’s-
ous.

Bu‘tomus. — Butdmece. — The
flowering Rush.—One of the hand-
somest of British aquatic plants,
well deserving of cultivation. It
grows to the height of two feet, and
produces its elegant head of pink
flowers in June and July.

ButreR AND Eacs.—A kind of
Narcissus.

BUTTERFLIES. — These beautiful

insects are never injurious to gar- |
dens except in their caterpillar |

state.
sip a little honey from the flowers ;
their sole business being to propa-
gate their species, and then they
die. Thus, the butterflies that are
almost always on the wing, and
which are the males, may be suf-
fered to flutter out their brief
existence unmolested; but when a
butterfly is found sitting on a
branch with its wings folded, in

Several shrubs are included | bright sunshine, it should be de-

As butterflies, they only |

BUXUS.

+4

BUXUS.

| stroyed, as the butterflies found in
| this position are generally females,
| just about to lay their eggs. Some-

| times butterflies, thus placed, are

found, when they are examined, to
be dead; and when this is the
case, the adjacent branches and
leaves should be searched for eggs.

ButTtERFLY PLants.—See Oncr’-
pDiuM and PHALZNO’PSIS.

Bu’xus L. — Luphorbiacee. —
The most common cultivated species
are B. sempervirens, and B. baled-
rica, the Minorca Box, both hardy
shrubs or low trees. The former is
one of the most valuable plants in
European gardens, both as an under-
growth in woods, and as an orna-
mental hedge for sheltering gardens.
Box is also much used for forming
edges to walks; but the kind em-
ployed for this purpose, though it
is considered to be only a dwarf
variety of B. sempervirens, is so
different from the Tree-box in its
habit, that it might almost be con-
sidered as a distinct species. The
Box-tree has been grown in Euro-
pean gardens almost from time im-
memorial. It was one of the prin-
cipal ornaments in the gardens of

| Pliny; and in more modern times
| the Dwarf-box was almost the only

plant used for forming the embroi-
dery or scroll-work, or whatever

_ that terrestrial arabesque may be
_ called, which came into fashion in

the time of Louis XIV. At present,
this kind of scroll-work is no longer
in use; but the Dwarf-box is stilla
favourite for edgings to beds, and it
will be perhaps always preferred to

, all other plants, from its hardi-

| habit of growth.

ness, easy culture, and compact
It is also ever-
green, and of great duration; it
is easily propagated, and bears
clipping or cutting remarkably
well. It is readily propagated by
taking up the plants, and after

dividing them, replanting them
farther apart, and a little deeper
than they were before. It will grow
in any soil not saturated with mois-
ture, and it may be cut or clipped
at any season of the year. The best
time for clipping Box, however, is
about the end of June ; after which,
especially if well watered, the Box
makes a second shoot of half an
inch, or an inch in length, which
obliterates the marks of the shears.
To form edgings vf Box properly,
is an operation of gardening that
requires considerable care. First,
the ground should be rendered firm
and even ; secondly, a narrow trench
should be accurately cut out with
the spade in the direction in which
the edging is to be planted; thirdly,
the Box should be thinly and
equally laid in along the trench, the
tops being all about an inch above
the surface of the soil; and, fourthly,
the soil should be applied to the

plants, and firmly trodden in against |

them, so as to keep the edging
exactly in the position required.
The trench should always be made
on the side next the walk ; and
after the soil is pressed down, and
the walk gravelled, the gravel is
brought up over the soil, close to
the stems of the Box, so as to cover
the soil at least an inch in thick-
ness, and to prevent any soil being
seen on the gravel-walk side of the
Box. This also prevents the Box
from growing too luxuriantly ; as
it would be apt to do if the trench
were on the border side, when the
plants would lean against the
gravel, and the roots, being entirely
covered with soil, would grow with
so much luxuriance, that the plants
would be with difficulty kept within
bounds by clipping. A Box-edging
once properly made, and clipped
| every year, 80 as to form a minid-
ture hedge, about three inches wide

cr

CACALIA. 4

.at bottom, three inches high, and

two inches wide at top, will last
ten or twelve years before it requires
to be taken up and replanted ; bui,
if the edging be allowed to attain a
larger size—say, six inches wide at
bottom, six inches high, and three
inches wide at top—it will last
fifteen or twenty years, or probably
a much longer period.

Box-hedges for shelter are treated
like other hedges, and being clipped
at the same period as Box-edgings,
will last for an unknown period,

probably for centuries, provided
the surface of the hedge, or, in
other words, the points of the shoots,
are cut back occasionally, so as to
admit the air to the centre of the
hedge. The Box, when used to
execute arabesques, or scroll-work
on the ground, is not allowed to
grow higher than two or three
inches, and is cut quite flat at
top; the entire figure of the ara-
besque being formed of Box, with-
out the introduction of flowers or
other plants, though occasionally
with the addition of small cones or
globes of Box rising up from the
terminal points of the arabesque
figure. These cones, pyramids,
globes, or other figures, are kept in
correct shape by being clipped every
year. When verdant sculpture
was in fashion, no tree excepting |
the Yew was so well adaped for it |
as the Box; and the tree was cut
into the proper shape, by putting
a wire frame of the desired form |
over the tree, and clipping the |
branches to it.

ACA‘LIA L.— Compésite.—C.
coccinea L., Emilia coccinea |
Cass., isa half-hardy annual, with
a bright scarlet flower, in form
somewhat resembling that of the |
common Groundsel. It is some- |

1 on

CACTUS.

times cultivated for the brilliant

colour of its flowers, though it is

scarcely worth the trouble it re- |

quires ;

as it must not only be |

raised on a hotbed, but its long |
slender stalks must be staked and |

tied up, to make it look at all neat.
There are several perennial species
of Cacalia, but they are very seldom
seen in British gardens.

Ca’ctus L.— Cactacee. — The
very remarkable succulent plants,
arranged by Linneus under the
name of Cactus, have been distri-

buted by modern botanists over |

numerous genera, which they are
still continually changing and re-
arranging. At first a few plants
were left in the genus Cactus, but
now that genus is annihilated, and
seven or eight new genera substi-
tuted for it ; still, as all the plants

that once composed it, and the new |
ones of the same nature that col- |

lectors are continually sending home,
are known by the general name of
Cacti, it has been thought advisable

to give here a slight sketch of the |

whole family.

In the time of Linnzus, very few
Cacti were known ; and even inthe
year 1807, Persoon enumerated only
thirty-two; but now above five hun-

dred living species are to be found |
in a single collection ; and numbers
of new species are being sent home |

by collectors every year.

These |

new species are chiefly found in the |
tropical regions of America, but |
they extend over 75 degrees of lati- |

tude, some being found near the

| boundary of the United States, and
some near the town of Conception

in Chili. By far the greater num-
ber, however, grow in the dry,
burning plains of Mexico and Bra-
zil, where they are subjected to
the alternate seasons of extreme
moisture and extreme drought. In
these arid plains, where all nature

CACTUS.

46

CALANDRINIA.

seems parched up for six months in

every year, the Cacti have been
mercifully provided to serve as re-
servoirs of moisture ; and not only

| the natives, by wounding the fleshy
' stems with their long forest-knives,

supply themselves with a cool and
refreshing juice, but even the cattle

_ contrive to break through the skin

with their hoofs, and then to suck
the liquid they contain—instinct
teaching them to avoid wounding
themselves with the spines.

The Cacti are arranged by nature
in several distinct groups ; the first
of which consists of the tree Cacti,

| or those kinds of Céreus which have

long slender stems, and which
usually grow on the summits of the

_ mountains of Brazil, forming a sin-

| pine Cacti,

gular kind of crest. These are
generally thirty or forty feet high,
and sometimes are branched like
candelabra, and sometimes consist
of only one naked stem, not thicker
than a man’s arm, though of such
enormous height. The Mammil-
larias, and Echinocacti, or Poreu-
which form another

| group, grow in the valleys of the

_ temperate

regions, generally in
loamy soils, and low grass; and the
Opuntias and Pereskias, which form
two others, are also principally
found in the temperate latitudes.
The Melocacti, or Melon-Cacti, and

| the Rhipsalis, which has narrow-

| jointed stems, are two other groups
| which are only found in the hottest
| parts of the tropics.

Among the
many peculiarities of this family of
plants, it may be mentioned, that
if collectors cut off the top of any of
the Cacti which they may find in
flower, and send it with the flower
on it to England, the seeds will
perfect themselves, and ripen on
the passage home, from the supply
of moisture contained in the divided
part.

With regard to the culture of the
Cacti in this country, it is found
that, generally speaking, they ought
to have a season of complete rest,
followed by one of violent excite-
ment; that is, they ought to be
kept almost without water from
October to March, and then watered
profusely while they are coming
into flower. They ought all to
be grown in pots well drained
with cinders, instead of potsherds,
as the latter retain too much mois-
ture for the delicate and succulent
roots; and they all enjoy bottom-
heat, which makes them throw out
abundance of fibrils. When re-
ceived late in the year, that is to say
in October or later, they should not
be potted till the following spring ;
and when raised from seed (which
is frequently sent over even in dead
specimens), the seed should be sown
in silver sand, and the young plants
when transplanted should not be
watered for several days.

CasaLpl’ntia Pluk.— Legumin-
ose.— The _ splendidly - flowering
plant, known in the West Indies by
the name of the Barbadoes Flower-
fence, which was formerly included
in this genus, is now called Pozn-
ciana.
mixture of loam and peat, with
abundance of room for its roots ;
and though generally considered a
stove-plant, it is found to live in
the open air in London and Paris,
if slightly protected during winter.
It is propagated by cuttings struck
in sand, in a moist heat under
glass. The other plants belonging
to the genus are seldom found in
British gardens.

CaLa/MPELIS D. Dow.—See Ec-
CREMOCA’RPUS.

It should be grown in a |

CALANDRI'NIA. — Portuldcee. —

Peruvian and Californian plants,
with fleshy leaves and showy flowers,

| generally treated as annuals in the

eee eee

CALCEOLARIA,

47

CALCEOLARIA.

open ground, but most of which
will live two or three years in a
greenhouse. There is some confusion
about the specific names ; the plants
figured in the Botanical Magazine
as C. speciosa, and C. grandiflora,
being quite different from those
figured under these names in the
Botanical Register, and known by
them in the London nurseries. Of
the kind sold in the London seed-
shops, (C. arendria has small
flowers, and is not worth growing ;
C. speciosa Lindl. (Talinum cilia-
tun Ruiz et Pavon), is a Californian
annual, with beautiful rich crimson
flowers which seem reclining on
their bed of dark green leaves, and
which have no fault but that of
closing at four o’clock in the day ;
C. grandijiora Lindl. has flowers
which, notwithstanding its name,
are much smaller than those of the
C. discolor Lindl., the latter being
one of the most splendid flowers
that will grow in the open air in
England. The seeds of the latter
two species (both of which grow
rather tall) are generally raised on
a slight hot-bed, but they may be
sown in a warm border in the open
air in April, when they will flower
in June.

CALCAREOUS Soits.—Soils con-
taining a considerable portion of
lime or chalk, mixed with sand or
loam, and decaying vegetable and
animal matter. Calcareous soils
are generally very productive ; and
when manured, they retain and give
out slowly the nourishing parts of
the manure longer than any other
kind of soil.

CaALCEOLA'‘RIA.—Scrophularine.
—Perhaps no plants hybridise more
freely than the different species of
this genus; and what is remark-
able is, that the shrubby kinds
appear to unite freely with those
that are herbaceous. In 1820, only

half a dozen species were known,
only one of which, C. corymbosa
Cay., with large yellow flowers, had
any pretensions to beauty. In the
next ten years, five or six more
species were introduced from Chili,

two of which, C. arachnéidea and |
C. purpurea Grah., had purple |

flowers. The latter closely re-
sembled C. corymbosa in its habit
of growth ; and about April, 1830,
the happy idea struck the late Mr.
Penny, of the Milford Nursery, to
attempt to hybridise them. The re-

sult was the hybrid, C. Gellaniana, |

the flowers of which were orange and
dark-brown. Mr. Penny then tried
C’. arachnéidea as one of the parents,
instead of C. purpiurea, and he pro-
duced the magnificent Calceolaria
which he called C. Yotmgii, and
which is still common in collections.
In 1831, the spotted-flowered Cal-
ceolaria, C. crenatiflora Cay. (C.
pendula D. Don), was introduced,
and from this several splendid
hybrids were raised. Some culti-
vator was then induced to try to
hybridise one of the shrubby kinds,
C. bicolor, the flowers of which
were pale-yellow and white, with
the herbaceous kinds haying dark-
yellow and purple flowers, and some
beautiful plants were the result.
From that time to the present, in-
numerable hybrids have been raised
every year, varying through every
possible shade of crimson, brown,
orange, purple, pink, and yellow,
sometimes spotted, and sometimes
delicately melting into white. One
or two have been raised which were
pure white, and others white with
clearly marked and distinct spots.
They are all half-hardy, only requir-
ing protection from frost; and they
should be grown in a compost of
equal parts of turfy loam and peat,
with a little sand. They all re-
quire a good deal of water, as even

CALENDULA.

the little hardy shrubby kind, C. |
rugosa, with small, dark-yellow
flowers, will flag if water should be
neglected even for a single day.

| The herbaceous kinds are still more

susceptible in this respect, and
when grown in pots, should stand

| in saucers of water, the water being

changed every day, and never given
to them till it has been warmed by
standing for a little time in the
same temperature as the plants.
C. violacea is a shrubby kind, with

pale lilac flowers, which requires a |

greenhouse.

Calceolarias are propagated by
cuttings, which strike readily in
the same soil as that in which the
plants are grown; and which do
not even require the aid of a bell-
glass, though they will certainly
strike sooner under one than with-
out. The seeds ripen in great
abundance, and they should be
sown as soon as they are ripe. The
young plants should be pricked out
as soon as they come up, and then
transplanted into larger and larger
pots, increasing gradually in size,
and each being only a little larger
than the preceding one, till they
begin to show flower-buds: and
when thus treated, they will flower
the following summer. When the
seeds are not sown till spring, they
will not flower till the second sum-
mer. There is only one annual
Calceolaria, C. pinndta, and it is
not worth growing.

CaLE/NDULA.—Compéosite.—The
Marigold.—There are several hand-
some species, some of which are
shrubby, and some annuals; the

| common Marigold, C. officindlis,

and its varieties, and C. stellata,
are the handsomest of the annual
species. The Cape Marigolds, C.
pluvialis, and C. hybrida, have
been removed by Professor De Can-
dolle to a new genus, which he

48

CALLIOPSIS.

calls Dimorphothéca. Both these
species are hardy annual plants,
with very elegant flowers, which
close at the withdrawal of the sun ;
and, as they do not open at all
when dark heavy clouds foretel the
approach of rain, Linneus called
the commonest species Caléndula
pluvialis, or the rainy Marigold.

The florets of the ray of the flowers |
of this plant are of a pure white |

inside, and of a dark purple on the
outside; while those of C. hybrida
are of a dingy orange outside.
CALIFORNIAN ANNUALS.—Beau-
tiful annual plants, mostly sent home
by Douglas, and natives of Califor-
nia, on the north-west coast of
North America, They all bear cold
much better than they do heat ; and

they will live through the British |

winters in the open air without any
protection, though they are easily
killed by the heat of: summer, par-
ticularly if their roots become by
any chance exposed to the full rays
of the sun. ‘The roots are indeed
very feeble, particularly at the col-
lar, where most plants are strong ;
and they will die in a few hours if
the sun strikes this vital part.
Nature has provided against this
danger, by giving most of these
plants a trailing habit, and thus
covering the roots with abundance
of leaves and stems: but cultivators,
not being aware of the use of this,
often, by training their plants over
a frame, &c., expose the collar, and
thus kill their plants. For the
mode of sowing, &c., see ANNUALS.

Ca’/LLA.—See A‘RuM.

CaLLi’cHROA.—Compésiia.— C.
platygléssa, the only species known,
is a showy Californian annual, with
golden-yellow flowers, requiring the
usual treatment of Californian an-
nuals.

Cauio/Psis. — Compésite. —
Every one knows the beautiful plants

CALOCHORTOS.

49

CAMELLIA.

which compose this genus, under
their old name of Coredpsis ; from
which genus they have been sepa-
rated on account of a slight differ-
ence in the internal structure of the
flower. The new and old names
have some resemblance in point of
sound, but they are very different
in origin, for Coreédpsis is derived
from the Greek word koris, a bug,
from the resemblance of the seeds to
that insect ; while Callidpsis is from
kallistos, signifying most beautiful.
The species are hardy annuals and
perennials; the former of which
may be sown in autumn, as they
will stand the winter without any
protection, and will thus come into
flower early in summer. All the
species will grow in any common
soil; and the perennial kinds are
propagated by division of the root.
Calliépsis bicolor is the same as
Coreépsis tinctoria.

CaLListEe’MMA.—One of the bo-
tanic names for the China Aster.

CALLISTE'‘MON. — Myrtacee. —
Australian shrubs, with evergreen
leaves and tassel-like flowers, better
known by their old name of Metro-
sidéros. They should be grown in
sandy loam ; and cuttings of the
old wood strike freely in sand under
a bell-glass.

CaLuiste’pHUS Dec. — Compé-
site.—The name given to the China
Aster in De Candolle’s Prodromus.

Cattu‘na D. Don.—The com-
mon Heather or Ling.—See Enr‘ca.

CatocHo’rtus. — T'ulipacee. —
Californian bulbs with splendid
flowers, but rather difficult of cul-
ture. They require a very sandy
soil, which should be covered with
litter in frosty weather, if the
bulbs are not taken up as soon as
they have done flowering in autumn.
They produce their large lilac and
white flowers in August and Sep-
tember, and occasionally ripen a

few seeds, by which, or by offsets,

they may be increased slowly.

Ca’LTHA.—Ranunculacee.—The
Marsh Marigold.

Catyca’NTHUS. — Calycantha-
cece.—Deciduous shrubs from North
America, with dark-brownish purple
flowers, remarkable for their fra-
grance, as well as their rich colour.

The plants thrive best in loam and |

peat, but they will grow in any soil
that is not very stiff and moist;
and they are commonly propagated
by layers. Most of whatare called
different species, are only varieties
of C. jfléridus, the American All-
spice-tree. The scent of the flowers
is commonly thought to resemble
that of ripefruit. The handsomest
species is C. occidentalis, from Cali-
fornia, with very large dark crim-
son flowers. Calycdnthus pre'coz,
the Japan Allspice, is now called by
De Candolle Chimondnthus fra-
grans, or the Winter-flower, as it
produces its flowers about Christ-
mas.—See CHIMONA’NTHUS.
CaLYsTE'G1A.— Convolvulacece.—
The new name for the common
hedge Convolvulus, and some other
species from America resembling it.
The red variety of C. sépiwm, com-
monly called the American Convol-
vulus, makes a very pretty covering
for a bower. Calystégia pubéscens
isa Chinese species, with pale-blush
double flowers, introduced in 1844.
All the kinds grow best in sandy or
gravelly soil.
CaME’/LLIA.—Ternstremidcee.—
Evergreen shrubs with splendid
flowers, from China, of which C.
japonica, and its numerous garden
varieties, are in general cultivation
in all the greenhouses of Europe and
America. Some of the varieties, as

for example C. j. variegdta, the
variegated red, are so hardy as to
stand the open air,
standards,

either as
or planted against a

50

CAMELLIA. CAMPANULA.

wall; particularly if their roots are buds will be liable to drop off; and
protected during frosty weather. | they will also drop, if watering be
It is a curious fact, that many ten- | neglected. All the species and
der and half-hardy plants will grow | varieties may be propagated by cut-
freely, and produce abundance of| tings, taken off at the base of a
flowers, if their roots and collarsare | leaf, or at a joint, as soon as the
protected, in a temperature that| wood has ripened, and planted in
would kill them immediately, if| sand under a glass; but the finer

these tender parts were exposed to |
the influence of the cold. Thus, |

when Camellias are planted out, if! ing.

the roots are protected during winter
by mulching (that is, covering with
straw or litter), and the main trunk
is wrapped round for about six or
eight inches from the ground, with
a hayband, or any other covering,
the rest of the plant may be left
entirely exposed without its sus-
taining the slightest injury. Camel-

varieties are generally propagated
by layering, and inarching, or graft-
The French nurserymen have
a very rapid mode of procuring
plants by grafting, which they effect
under bell-glasses, in a strong moist
heat, with scions of the young wood,
on stocks formed of cuttings struck
the same season. From the Camel-
lia being an evergreen, and its leaves
being large, dark-green, and shining,
it makes a very fine appearance

lias are commonly cultivated in | against a conservative wall: and no
sandy loam and peat, and this soil | plant whatever is more magnificent
is perhaps the best for them when | in a conservatory. It must be ob-
they are grown in pots; but when | served that all the varieties of C.
they are planted out in a con-|japénica cannot bear too much

servatory, or the open ground, they |
will thrive exceedingly well in
sandy loam, mixed with rotten
dung, or leaf-mould. When the
plants are in a growing state, they
require abundance of water, both
at the roots and over the leaves;
taking care, however, never to wet
the leaves when the sun is shining
upon them; as, wherever this
occurs, the leaves become stained,
or blotched, and look as though they
were scalded. When Camellias are
kept in a greenhouse or conserva-
tory, imperfections in the glass will
produce the same effect. The tem-
perature of the Camellia house
should be between fifty and sixty |
degrees during the growing season ; |
but when the flower-budsare formed,

it may be lower, till the beginning |
of winter, when the buds begin to |
swell. At this season the tempera- |

| liant colour of the flowers.

heat, and they prefer the shade to
broad sunshine ; also that when
they are planted against a wall, it is
better with a south-east aspect than
full south. C. Sasdnqgua, and its
beautiful variety, C. S. Maliflora,
are the most tender. C. reticulata
is quite a different species from C.
japonica, and it is certainly a noble
plant, from the large size and bril-
Tt was
first thought tender, but it is now
found to be quite as hardy as C.
japonica, only requiring a slight
protection during winter.

Campa’/NuLA. — Campanulacee.
—Beautiful herbaceous plants, na-
tives of Europe and Asia; the greater
part of which are perennials, and are
hardy in British gardens. There
are also some handsome hardy bien-
nials and annuals, and one or two
greenhouse species. Many of the

ture ought not to be suffered to fall hardy perennials are dwarf plants,
below fifty degrees, otherwise the | which produce a profusion of flowers,

CAMPANULA.

more conspicuous than the leaves ;

which renders them particularly
adapted for rock-work, or growing
in pots. Some of the species are so
tall, as to require to be planted at
the back of borders, or in a single
row, along with other tall plants;
such, for example, as C. pyramida-
lis, the pyramidal Bell-fiower ; C.
Trachélium, the Throat-wort, &e.
C. pyramidalis is one of those plants
that by repeated repotting can be
brought to an extraordinary size,
either as a narrow cone covered with
deep-blue flowers from the base to
the summit, or trained against a
frame in the fan manner. By either
mode it makes a very splendid ob-
ject; and all the art required to
produce it, consists in employing
rich soil, and in shifting the plant
for two years into pots always a
little larger and larger, so as to pre-
vent it from coming into flower till
it has acquired extraordinary vigour.
Some of the prettiest little species
for pots, or rockwood, are C. cenisia
and C. unijldra, which do not ex-
ceed three inches in height, and are
covered during June or July with
blue flowers; C. carpdtica, C. rotun-
difolia, C. gargdnica, and upwards
of fifty others, which do not exceed
six inches in height. All these are
very valuable for forming beds in a
geometric or regularly-shaped flower-
garden, from their dwarf and com-
pact habit of growth, and from the
great profusion of their leaves and
brilliant-looking flowers. C. Me-
diwm, the Canterbury Bell, is one
of the most ornamental of biennials ;
and C. Spéculum, Yenus’s Looking-
glass, is a well-known and pretty
annual. This last species has been,
however, twice removed from the
genus Campanula; having been
ealled Prismatocdérpus Spéculum by
L’Héritier, and Specularia Spécula
by De Candolle. The new Venus’s

51

CANNA.

Looking-glass of the nurseries, Cam-
panula Lorei, has, however, been
always considered to belong to Cam-
panula. All the species grow freely
in any common soil, and are in-
creased by dividing the roots, or by
seeds. The roots of all the species
are eatable.

Ca’mpion.—This name is given
to several flowers, with different
prefixes, such as the Rose Campion
(see Ly’cunis or AGRosTE’MMA), and
the Berry-bearing Campion.—See
SILe‘NE.

“ CanaRy Brrp FLower.—Z7o-
peolum peregrinum, or adéincum ;
sometimes also called 7’. canariénse,
though wrongly, as it is a native of
Peru. This plant is generally con-
sidered a half-hardy annual, but it
is found to grow without any hot-
bed, if the seeds are sown as soon as
ripe, in pots, and kept in a room
during winter. The young plants
should be regularly watered, and
trained to a stick or frame till
spring, when they should be planted
out. They will then grow and
flower luxuriantly, producing a suc-
cession of blossoms till the plants
are destroyed by frost.

CANDLEBERRY MYRTLE. — See
Myrr'ca.

CanpytTurr.—See Isr'ris.

Ca’nna L.—Cénnece or Scita-
minece.—Splendid reed-like plants,
from the East and West Indies, and
South America, of which two species,
C. patens and C. speciosa, are suiii-
ciently hardy to stand the winter at
the base of a south wall, where they
will flower freely during the summer.
The common Indian Shot, C. indica,
and almost all of the other kinds,
require a stove. They are all grown
in rich light soil, and are readily
increased by dividing the roots, or by
seeds. The seeds of the hardy kinds
generally require to be steeped in
water before they are sown. They

E 2

CAPE BULBS. 52 CAPE SHRUBS.

should then be raised on a hotbed, | trees planted against it—as, for ex-
and shifted two or three times be- | ample, the front wall of a pit or hot-
fore they are planted out. house—the best mode is to make

CANTERBURY BELL.—See Cam- | the bed not more than two or three
PA’NULA. feet in width ; by which means it

Ca’ntua W.—Polemonidcew.— | may be easily and effectually pro-
A great confusion has arisen regard- | tected by shutters, made to rest on
ing the plants called by this name, | the ground on one edge, and to lean
some of those called Cdntua by | against the wall onthe other. When
Willdenow, having been afterwards there is no such wall, a very good
called Ipomépsis and Gilia by other | mode of affording protection during

botanists.

Two species have, how- | winter, is to surround the bed with

ever, been lately introduced which | a wooden frame, or a brick or stone

appear decidedly to belong to the
genus Cantua, viz. C. bicolor and
C. pyrifilia. C. bicolor, which
has very ornamental scarlet flowers,
tinged with yellow in the centre and
in the tube of the flower, is the
Magic Tree of the Peruvian Indians.
In this country it forms a green-
house shrub of easy cultivation. C.
pyrifolia has white flowers with
bright yellow tubes. It was intro-
duced in 1848.

Care BuLBs are remarkable for
the beauty of their flowers ; and as
they occupy but little space, a con-
siderable collection of them may be
grown in a very small garden, in a
great measure without the aid of
glass. The situation should be ex-
posed to the south, and protected

| from the north ; and the soil should

consist of sand and peat, or sand
and leaf-mould, to the depth of two
feet, thoroughly drained. In such
a bed, all the Cape Iridaceze may be
planted, placing the bulbs not less
than six inches below the surface
of the ground, and protecting the
plants when they come up with a
mat; and after they die down,
covering the bed with rotten tan,
rotten leaves, or litter. No other
plants ought to be planted in the bed
during the summer, nor any water

_ given to it during winter, lest the
_ bulbs should be rotted.
a sufficient length of wall, with no

If there is

wall ; and either to cover it with
glazed sashes, or oiled canvas, in
frames or with boards, or mats ;
taking care always to uncover the
bed in fine weather.

CAPE JASMINE.—See GARDE'NIA.

CapE PHILLY’REA.—Cassine ca-
pénis L.—A low, half-hardy shrub,
allied to the Holly.

CapE SHRUBS in their native
country grow chiefly in very sandy
soil, mixed with vegetable mould,
formed by the decay of the same
shrubs which it nourishes. The
best imitation of such a soil in
British gardens is sandy loam, which
ought to be well drained, by putting
crocks or potsherds in the bottom of
the pots, to the depth of an inch or
two, and afterwards covering them
with turfy peat, to prevent the soil
from being washed through the
crocks. Inthe management of Cape
Shrubs, the great art is, to keep them
always in the same state with regard
to moisture; that is, never very wet,
and yet never so dry as to cause the
plants to droop their leaves. If
ever they are allowed to droop their
leaves for three or four hours,
death is almost the certain conse-
quence ; and this is the reason why
so many Cape Heaths are killed by
those who will not take the trouble
to water them regularly. To lessen
the risk of destruction by drought,
some cultivators have an outer and

nn

CAPRIFOLIUM.

53

CARAGANA.

an inner pot; the object.of the| C. «dlicum, the Italian Honey-

former being to lessen the evapora-
tion from the latter. Others mix
lumps of freestone with the soil in
the pots; and these being powerful
absorbers of moisture, retain, as it
were, a reserve of water for the
plant to have recourse to when it is
neglected by the gardener. It may
be useful to observe, that when
peat, or a mixture of sand and peat,
in a pot where the soil has become
matted with roots, is once thoroughly
dried, it is extremely difficult to
moisten it again properly; and
hence, many persons who pour
water on the surface of pots con-
taining plants in sandy peat, ima-
gine that it penetrates the ball of
earth, and reaches all the roots,
while, in fact, it very frequently
escapes between the ball and the
pot, moistening only the outer sur-
face of the ball, and leaving the
great mass of roots in its centre
quite dry. Perhaps as many Cape
Heaths and shrubs, and Australian
shrubs, are killed in this way, as
Geraniums and bulbs are killed by
over-watering.—See Err'ca.

Ca’PPARIS. — Capparidee.— A
genus of rambling shrubs, natives
of both the East and West Indies,
and of South America. One spe-
cies, C’. spindsa, the common Caper,
grows wild in the south of Europe,
and forms in England a greenhouse
trailer as well as a most suitable
plant for a conservative wall, re-
markable in both situations for the
beauty of its flowers. It grows in
common soil, and is readily pro-
pagated by cuttings of the roots.
A plant grew for many years in
the garden of Camden House,
Kensington.

Capriro’Lium.— Caprifoliacee.
-—The Honeysuckle.—Well-known
climbing-plants, remarkable for the
delightful fragrance of their flowers.

suckle; C.. Periclymenum, the
common Woodbine, and its varie-
ties; and C. sempervirens, the
Trumpet Honeysuckle, are those
most common in collections. The
beautiful and very fragrant plant
generally called Lonicera flexudsa,
is sometimes found under the name
of Caprifolium chinénse, or japé-
nicum: but the gold and silver
Honeysuckle is generally called C.
japonicum. Both these plants are
natives of Japan and China, and
they are rather tender in British
gardens. They should be grown
in a svil composed of sand, peat,
and loam, and are propagated by
cuttings. The Trumpet and Yellow
Honeysuckles, C. flavum, should
also be grown in sandy peat, and
they require a slight protection in
severe weather ; but all the other
kinds may be grown in common
soil, without any further care than
training them agamst a wall, or
over paling.

Ca’pstcum. — Solandcee. — The
pods of the plants belonging to this
genus produce the Cayenne Pepper;
and some of the species are very
ornamental from their bright scarlet
colour, and their remaining on all
the winter. They are generally
tender annuals, requiring the heat
of a stove to ripen their fruit; but
there is one species, C. cerasiforme,
sometimes called Cherry Pepper, or
Bell Pepper, which does not require
any greater heat than that of a
greenhouse.

Caracawa. — Legumindse. —
The principal species contained In
the genus Caragdna are low trees
and large shrubs, with abruptly
pinnate leaves, and pea-flowers,
which are generally yellow. They
are mostly natives of Siberia, and
flower early in spring ; their light
elegant foliage often appearing as

CAREX.

are very ornamental ; but the tree
kinds are more so than the others.
C. jubata, which differs from the
rest in having white flowers tinged
with red, is a low shrub, not above
eighteen inches high, presenting a
curious shaggy appearance from the
footstalks of the leaves remaining
on, and becoming hard and thorny,
after the leaflets have dropped off.
C. Chamlagu, the Chinese Cara-
gana, which is naturally a low
shrub, forms a very graceful pen-
dulous tree, when grafted on a
stock of C. arboréscens, ten or
twelve feet high. All the Caraga-
nas were formerly considered to
belong to the genus Robinia. They
are all quite hardy, and will grow
in any common garden-soil ; most
of the species prefer a poor gravel ;
but C. arboréscens thrives best in
the neighbourhood of water. The
species are propagated by layers or
cuttings, or by seeds, which they
ripen in abundance.

CarDaA’/MINE.—Crucifere.—Low
herbaceous plants, natives of Europe,
and of which C. praténsis, the
common Cuckoo-flower, or Lady’s
Smock, and one or two other species,
deserve a place in the flower-garden.
C’. trifolia is valuable for its early
flowering, and, with several other
species, is well adapted for pots or
rockwork. ‘The soil should be kept
moist.

CARDINAL-FLOWER.—The Scar-
let Lobelia.—See Lope‘nta.

Ca’RDuUUS.— Compésite. — The
Thistle. —Some of the species are
very ornamental ; though they are
many of them tall robust-growing
plants, which require a great deal
of room, and are too large for a
small garden.

Ca‘REX. — Cyperdcee. — The
Sedges are well-known British and
American plants, of which only one

54

CATALPA,

early as March. All the species

species, C. Fraseriana Ait., a native
of America, deserves a place in the
flower-garden. It grows about half
a foot in height, has broader leaves
than the common Sedges, and pro-
duces its large white flowers, which
look like little Lilies, from April to
June. It requires a moist loamy
soil, or to be grown ina pot, and
kept in a pan of water.

Carnation.—See Dia’NTHUS.

CaroB TREE.—See CERATO'NIA.

Ca’/RTHAMUS. — Composite. —
Hardy annuals. C. tinctorius, the
Bastard Saffron, is an old inhabitant
of British gardens, and it only re-
quires sowing in the open air in
March or April. From the dried
flowers of this plant is made what
is called vegetable rouge. CC. landa-
tus L., the Distaif Thistle, is called
Kentrophyllum lanatum by De
Candolle.

Ca/ss1a. — Leguminosee. — The
Senna Tree.—Only a few of the
species are from temperate climates;
and among these, C. corymbosa
Lam., is a very showy greenhouse
shrub, with yellow flowers ; and C.
marilandica, from Maryland, is a
perennial herbaceous plant of easy
culture in the open garden. All
the ligneous species are readily
propagated by cuttings, and the
others by seeds or division of the
roots.

CasTILLe'sa. — Scrophularine.
—The American Painted Cup, C.
coccinea Sprengel, Bartsia L., Eu-
chréima Nut., is a hardy annual,
with yellow flowers and scarlet
bracts, which only require sowing
in March or April in the open
ground.

Cata’Ltpa.— Bignoniacee. —De-
ciduous trees, one of which C. sy-
ringefolia Bot. Mag., is quite hardy
in British shrubberies, in which it
richly deserves a place on account of
its fine leaves and splendid flowers.

CATERPILLARS.

55

CEANOTHUS.

It will grow in any common soil | as soon as the insects are perceived.

that is tolerably dry; but if it has
too much moisture, the shoots,
which are naturally soft, with a
large pith, will never be thoroughly
ripened, and the tree will very pro-
bably be killed by the first frost.
For the same reason, the situation
ought to be airy. It is propagated
by seeds, or by cuttings of the
roots.

CaTANA/NCHE. — Compésite. —
Herbaceous plants, natives of the
South of Europe. C. ceridea isa
perennial ; C. bicolor is a biennial ;
and C. lutea, an annual. All the
species have pretty flowers, but are
rather awkwarda-looking plants, from
their long and very slender flower-
stalks. They are of easy culture,
but grow best in poor gravelly soil.

CatcHFLY.—See S1e‘NeE.

CATERPILLARS. — The larve of
moths and butterflies, are very de-
structive to vegetation. Many gar-
deners keep their gardens clear by
destroying the female butterflies and
moths before they have laid their
eggs (see BurreRFLIEs and Mors) ;
and others, by carefully searching
for the eggs early in spring, when
the trees are without leaves. When
these preventive measures have been
neglected, the only effectual way to
prevent the ravages of caterpillars
is to pick them off the trees sepa-
rately. The visits of caterpillars
are very uncertain, and some sea-
sons they are much more abundant
than in others. Sometimes the ca-
terpillars of the Magpie Moth will
entirely strip the gooseberry bushes
of their leaves, and the fruit will,
in consequence, become tough and
insipid ; and in other seasons, the
caterpillars of the Lackey Moth, the
Hawthorn Butterfly, and the Ermine
Moth, will strip the Hawthorn and
other shrubs. In all these cases
hand-picking should be resorted to

Many persons recommend fumigat-
ing with tobacco-smoke, or by burn-
ing wet straw under the tree ; and
others, washing with tobacco or lime
water ; but most of the remedies are
worse than the disease.
Catmint.—See Nu’Pera.
CaTTLe'ya. — Orchidacee. —Or-
chideous plants, with large and
splendid flowers, natives of South
America. They may be grown either
in pots, in peat mixed with lime-
rubbish, or on pieces of wood or cocoa
husks hung up in a hothouse, the
roots being wrapped in wet moss.
All the species of Cattléya are easily
propagated by dividing their roots ;
and they are particularly valuable,
as they will thrive in a common hot-
house if well supplied with water,
without requiring the excessive heat
and moisture generally necessary for
the tropical Orchidex.
Crano’/THUs. — Rhamnacece. —
Red Root.—American hardy and
half-hardy shrubs, with large spikes
of very small flowers. The most
ornamental species of the genus is
C. azureus, which is only half-hardy
in the climate of London, requiring
protection from severe frosts. Ceand-
thus pallidus is much hardier than
C. azireus, and strongly resembles
that species ; but its leaves are not
hoary beneath, and its flowers, Dr.
Lindley tells us inthe Bot Reg., ‘‘are
smaller, as well as much paler.”
He adds, that it is often confused
with C. ovatus, which ‘‘is a mere
variety of C. americanus,” and C.
thyrsiflorus, which ‘‘is a Califor-
nian tree, with deep-blue flowers,
and very strong angular branches.”
C. americinus is the least orna-
mental of all the kinds; and C. col-
linus is a dwarf plant, not above two
feet high, with a profusion of white
flowers. The last two are quite
hardy, but the other kinds should

CELOSIA.

56

CENTAUREA.

be trained againsta south wall, and | Tender annuals, with showy flowers.

protected from severe frosts by a
thatched coping. C. dentdtus isa
very ornamental half-hardy shrub.
Three new species were intrcduced
in 1854, one of which, C. floribunda
from California, is very splendid.
They should all be grown in a com-
post consisting of three-fourths of
heath-mould, or a mixture of sand
and peat, with one of loam, and the
soil should be well drained. The
best way to effect this, as the plants
are generally grown in the open air,
is to dig a pit for each, about two
feet deep, and a foot and a half or
two feet in diameter, and to fill
about a third of it with broken brick-
bats, pieces of freestone, and pebbles.
The compost should be put on this,
and raised a few inches above the
level of the general surface of the
garden, to allow for sinking. ‘This
plan will not only insure drainage,
and thus prevent the roots from
being injured by wet, but the broken
bricks and pieces of stone will pro-
vide a reservoir of moisture which
will equally serve to prevent the roots
from ever becoming too dry.

CreparR OF Goa.—Cupréssus lu-
siténica Tou. ; C. glatéica Lam.—A
very ornamental half-hardy tree,
which in a sheltered situation has a
beautiful effect on a lawn, from its
drooping branches and _ glaucous
foliage. It requires a light soil, and
to be occasionally watered, as its
roots are very apt to wither, if suf-
fered to become too dry.

CELANDINE. — There are two
plants bearing this name: the com-

mon (see CHELIDO'NIUM), and the |

lesser (see Fica’RIA).

Cexa’strus L. — Celastrinee.—
The Staff-tree. —Half-hardy shrubs,
mostly natives of the Cape, with
white flowers. For culture, see
CEANO' THUS.

CELO'stA. — Amaranthacee.. —

The common Cock’s-comb, C. cris-
tata, may be grown to a very large
size by raising the plants on a hotbed
and frequently shifting them into
larger and larger pots, as directed for
the Balsam (seeBatsamr'na). Another
mode is to put the plants when quite
small into pots about four inches
across and three inches deep, into a
compost of fresh horse-dung, turf in
lumps of at least an inch in diameter,
and decayed leaves. As soon as the
roots reach the sides of the pot, the
plants are to be removed to pots a
footin diameter and nine inches deep,
filled with the same compost. Plants
treated according to this method,
which was that of the late Mr.
Knight, are a long time before they
show any disposition to flower ; but
when they do, if they are placed
near the glass, and kept in the same
heat as Pine-apples, they grow toan
enormous size. There is a drawing
of a Cock’s-comb treated in this
manner and grown by Mr. Knight,
at Downton Castle, in the Library
of the London Horticultural Society,
in Regent-street.
Cr’ts1a.—Solanticee, or Verbas-
cinee. Half-hardy annuals and bi-
ennials, with showy yellow flowers,
and nearly allied to the genus Ver-
bascum. They are generally raised
on a hotbed, and the biennials are
kept in the greenhouse during win-
ter, as they are killed by a slight
frost. C. linearis and C. urtice-
folia, which have scarlet flowers, are
now included in the genus Alonsda.
—See ALonso\s.
CENTAURE'A.—Composite.—The
common perennial species are known
by the English name of Knapweed ;
and the only quite hardy annual one,
C. Cyanus, by the name of Corn
Bluebottle : the most beautiful spe-
cies, C. Crocodylium L., is a half-
hardy annual, which should be raisea

|

|

|
|

CERASUS.

57 CERCIS.

on a hotbed and planted out in May. |
C. benedicta L., Cnicus benedictus
Dec., the Blessed Thistle, is a hardy
annual, which may be sown in March
or April, and will flower all the sum-
mer; and C. suaveolens and C.
moschata L., the yellow and purple
Sweet Sultans, have been formed into
the genus Amberboa by Professor de
Candolle.

Centaury. —A British plant
with clusters of small pink flowers,
growing in chalky soils, the bota-
nical name of which is Erythre'‘a
Centatirium.

CEPHAE'LIS. — Rubiacew. — See
Iprcacua/NHA.—This plant is in-
teresting from its producing the
medicine called Ipecacuanha; though
it has been long known in medicine,
and large quantities of it have been
imported every year from Brazil, it
has only lately been introduced into
England, having flowered for the
first time in this country in the
stove at Kew, in January, 1843.
The word Jpecacuanha is derived
from ‘‘Jpe (bark), caa (plant), cua
(scented), and xha (striped) ; thus
forming the words ‘bark of a
scented and striped plant.”

Ce’rasus. — Rosdcew. — The
Cherry.—Hardy trees and shrubs,
for the most part deciduous, and
all more or less ornamental on
account of their flowers. The com-
mon double Cherry, and the French
double Cherry, deserve a place in |
every garden; and equally so do|
the Chinese Cherry, C. Pseudo-
cérasus; the All-Saints’ Cherry,
C. semperflorens ; the Bird Cherry,
C. Padus; the Virginian Bird |
Cherry, C. virginiana ; the Maha- |
leb Plum or Cherry, C. Mahdleb ;
and the Japan Cherry, C. japénica,
known in the nurseries as the double

DwarfAlmond. Many of the plants
here enumerated are known at some
of the nurseries by the name of

Prinus : as P. Mahdleb, P. Padus,
&e. ; but in others they are called
Cerasus. It is necessary to know
this to avoid buying the same plant
under different names. All the
Species grow in common soil, and
are propagated by grafting or seeds.
The common Laurel, Cérasus Lauro-
cérasus, and the Portugal Laurel,
Cérasus lusitanica, which also be-
long to this genus, have showy
spikes of flowers, and deserve cul-
ture on that account, indepen-
dently of their shining evergreen
leaves.

Crrato'nta. — Legumindse. —
An evergreen greenhouse shrub, a
native of the Seuth of Europe and
Asia. The pod is fleshy, like that
of the Tamarind, and it is said to
have been the food St. John fed on
in the Wilderness, the seeds being
called ‘‘locusts,” and the pulp
‘‘ wild honey.” Hence the popular
name of St. John’s Bread. It is
also called the Carob-tree. The
tree is of very slow growth, and
the flowers have no beauty; but the
plant is worth cultivation for its
dark-green leathery leaves. It
should be grown in a mixture of
equal parts of loam and peat, well-
drained and frequently watered ;
and it is propagated by cuttings of
the old wood struck in sand.

CERATO’STEMA.— Vaccinee.— A
showy plant with large, tubular,
scarlet flowers; a native of the
Andes of Peru, at a height of twelve
thousand feet above the level of

the sea, and consequently very,
nearly hardy. It was introduced
in 1854.

Cr’roIs. — Legumindse. — The
Judas-tree.— Few trees are more
ornamental in a shrubbery than the
two species of this genus: but Cér-
cis Siliquastrum, the common kind,
is decidedly the handsomest. The
leaves are curiously shaped, and

/

CEREUS.

the flowers, which are of a beautiful
pink, grow out of the bark of the
stem and branches, and not like
those of other plants, among the
leaves ; these flowers have an agree-
ably acid taste, and when fried in
batter, make excellent fritter. The
common Judas-tree is a native of
the Levant, and it is frequently
grown against a wall, producing its
flowers in April; but the American
kind, C. canadénsis, is quite hardy.
They both produce abundance of
seeds, and grow best in a deep sandy
loam, rather rich than poor.
Cr’REUS.—Cactacee.—The Torch

| Thistle. — One of the genera into

_ which the Linnzan genus Cactus is
| now divided. This genus was first

_ are white and yellow.

formed by Mr. Haworth, who made
it consist only of all the Cacti that
had long angular or round stems ;
but modern botanists include in it
those of the short round stemmed
porcupine Cacti, that have long tube-
shaped flowers. Of the true kinds
of Cereus, which are still generally
the only ones known by that name
in most private collections and nur-
series, the best known are C. spe-
ciosissimus, the crimson-flowered
Torch Thistle, and its hybrids and
varieties, the stems of which are

| erect and angular, and the flowers

dark crimson; C. jflagelliformis,
the Creeping Cereus, the long round
stems of which hang down like cords,
and the flowers of which are pink;
and C. grandijlirus, the Night-
blowing Cereus, the flowers of which
A new kind
of Night-blowing Cereus has been
lately introduced, called Mrs. Mac-
donald’s, with flowers 14 inches in
diameter. One of the handsomest
species of the genus is, however,
C. crenatus Lindl., which flowered
for the first time in England in 1843.
The plant resembles C. speciosissi-

58

CHAMZDOREA.

of the Night-blowing Cereus ; they
have the advantage, however, of
opening in the daytime, and remain-
ing expanded a week or more. The
Old Man’s Head, or Monkey Cactus,
Cereus senilis, which is covered
with long white hairs, is more
curious than ornamental; but it
well deserves a place in every col-
lection from its singular appearance,
which is, however, most striking
when the plants are small. All the
kinds of Cereus only require green-
house heat; they should all be grown
in loam mixed with pounded brick
and lime-rubbish, in pots well
drained with cinders; and they all
require abundance of air and light.
It is best to give them a season of
rest when they have done flowering ;
and this is done by removing them
to a colder house and withholding
water. If, however, they are con-
tinued in the same house in which
they were flowered, the supply of
water should be lessened, but not
stopped entirely. In other respects
their culture resembles that of the
other Cacti.—See Ca’ctvs.

Ce’/stRuM. — Solanacee. — A
genus of stoveand greenhouse plants,
most of which have ornamental
flowers and poisonous berries. Some
of the species are fragrant, but
others have a very disagreeable
smell. The most ornamental kind
is C. aurantiacum, a native of
Guatemala, which was introduced
in 1846. It is a greenhouse plant,
with bright orange flowers, which
in winter are succeeded by white
pear-shaped berries, which conti-
nue to hang on after the leaves have
fallen.

CuaLk.—Carbonate of Lime.—
See Earrus.

CHamMzBu’xus.—A kind of Poly-
gala.

CHAMZDO’REA. — Palmacee. —.

mus, but the flowers are like those| A very curious genus of Dwarf

CHEIRANTHUS.

59

CHERMES.

Palms, none of them exceeding the | suited for growing in pots, or on

height of a man.
of tropical America, and look more
like reeds than palms. It is said,
that there are forty-two species in
the genus ; and four or five of them
are in the Royai Gardens at Kew.
CHAMZMO'LY.—A species of Al-
lium.
CHARCOAL.—Powdered charcoal,
sifted so as to have the particles not
larger than those of sand, has been
used in Germany for striking cut-
tings In; and it is found superior
to sand, as it supplies them with
nourishment after they are rooted,
by attracting oxygen from the
atmosphere, and thus forming
carbonic acid gas round the roots.
Charcoal in larger pieces is also
occasionally mixed with the soil in
pots and tubs, and is found in many
cases to produce rapid and vigorous
growth.
Cuarpi'nNtA.—The new name for
Xerdnthemum orientale.
CuHEIRA’NTHUS. — Crucifere. —
The Wall-flower.—Well-known her-
baceous plants, which are much
prized for the delightful odour of
their flowers, which are produced
from April to July. C. Cheri, the
common Wall-flower, and its varie-
ties, both double and single, are in
general cultivation, growing in any
common soil; and the varieties are
readily increased by cuttings. The
best varieties are the double-blood,
the double-striped, the double-yel-
low or Polish, and the double-
purple, all of which may be obtained
from the nurserymen. There is
also a kind with very dark flowers
and striped leaves, grown by Nor-
man of Brighton; and a single pale
purple, called the French Wall-
flower, grown by Hopgood of Bays-
water, and other nurserymen. C.

alpinus is a pretty hardy little
plant, with yellow flowers, well

They are natives |

rockwork. C. mutdbilis is a cu-
rious species from Madeira, requir-
ing the greenhouse, and flowering
from December to May.

CHELIDO'NIUM. — Papaveracee.
—The common Celandine, or Swal-
low-wort (C. mdjus), is a hardy
perennial, with yellow flowers, com-
mon on the sea-coast, and in church-
yards, in many parts of England.
It grows in any common soil, and is
readily increased by division of the
roots, or by seeds, which it produces
in abundance.

CHELO'NE. — Scrophularine. —
Handsome herbaceous plants, na-
tives of North America, most of
which are, however, now included
in the genus Pentstemon. The four
still called Chelone, are C. glabra,
C. obliqua, C. Lydni (C. major,
Bot. Mag.), and C. nemordsa. All
the species grow freely in light, rich
soil, and are readily increased by
cuttings, suckers, or seeds, which,
in favourable seasons, are produced
in abundance.

CHERMES or Kermes.—A _ scale-
like insect that raises a kind of
gall-apple on a species of Oak
(Quércus cocctfera), and which pro-
ducés a brilliant scarlet dye. The
true Chermes is a kind of Coccus ;
but the name was applied by Lin-
neus to a genus of leaping insects
known by the popular name of false
Aphides, because the larve resemble
those insects; though, in their per-
fect state, they have red bodies, and
long snow-white wings. The in-
sects, which are now called Psylla,
are generally found on plants of the
genus Pyrus; and they may be
known to have attacked a tree by
the curling up of its leaves, and
withering of its branches. They
frequently attack the Pyrus or Cy-
dénia japonica, and the snowy
Mespilus, which they destroy by

CHINQUAPIN.

sucking the sap out of the young
shoots. The best way of getting rid |

| of them is to wash and brush the |

| grant flowers being

branches with soft soap and water |
in winter and spring.—Sez A'‘puHIs.

CHERRY.—See Cr’RASUS.

CHerry-Bay and CHERRY-LAV- |
REL.—Old English names for the
common Laurel.

Curmona’/NtTHUS. — Calycantha-
C. fragrans, theWinter-flower
(Calacénthus pre ‘cow), and its va-
rieties, are well deserving a place
against a conservative wall, or in
the conservatory ; for though hardy
enough to stand our winters in the
open air, yet from their very fra-
produced in

| December, January, and February,

they are very liable to be injured by
the frost. They thrive in almost
any soil, but prefer a mixture of
loam and peat. They are readily
increased by layers, and cuttings of
the young wood, which, planted in
sand under a bell-glass, strike
freely. The large-flowered variety
has darker and handsomer flowers,
but they are less fragrant.

Cuina ASTER. —The China Aster,
which some botanists now call by
this name, is one of the most orna-
mental annuals in British gardens.
There are many varieties, and those
known as the German Asters are
considered the most beautiful. They
should be raised on a hotbed in
February or March, pricked out
when the plants have two or three
leaves, and transplanted into the
open garden in May, where they
will make a very fine appearance in
September and October. They
should be grown in light rich soil,
or in loam, or in thoroughly rotten
dung.

Curva Rosz.—See Ro'sa.

Cuina TreE.— The Oriental
Plane.

CHINQUAPIN.—Dwarf Chestnut.

60

CHOROZEMA.

| Cuiona’NTHUS. — Oléine. — C.
virginica, the Fringe-tree, is a large
shrub, well deserving a place i in all
peat borders, both for the beauty of
its white fringe-like flowers, and
|for its leaves, which are often as
large as those of Magnolia grandi-
| jlora, and die off of a fine rich
yellow. It is readily increased by
layers or seeds, and it may also be
graited or budded standard high on
the common Ash, when it will form
a fine object for a lawn, or for the
centre of a flower-bed.

Curri'ta. — Cyrtandracee. —
Very handsome plants, bearing consi-
derableresemblance to the Gloxinias,
and flowering nearly all the summer.
| They may be propagated by cuttings
of the leaves, as any portion of a
leaf will emit leaves and reots-if
planted in moist sand, and kept in
a warm, humid atmosphere. The
plants flower best in a stove; but
C'. sinénsis, which is, perhaps, the
most beautiful species, will thrive
in a warm green-house.

Cuiro‘Nia. — (rentianee.
Greenhouse plants of short duration,
and consequently requiring to be
frequently raised from cuttings,
which strike freely in peat under a
hand-glass. (C. frutéscens, with
rose-coloured flowers, and its va-
riety, with white flowers, are the
most desirable kinds, and may be
easily procured from the nurseries.
They are also frequently raised from
Cape seeds, the plants being all
indigenous at the Cape of Good
Hope.

CHoro’zeMA. — Leguminise. —
Beautiful New Holland shrubs,
thriving well in an equal mixture of
loam, sand, and peat. They are
readily increased by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass, or by seeds,
which are frequently ripened in
abundance. All the species are

—

worth cultivating; and they are

SS eee

Es
ec

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

61

CHRYSOSPLENIUM.

interesting not only for their beauty,
but on account of the story told as
to the origin of their name. It is
said that Labillardiére had been
wandering in New South Wales for
several days in great distress for
water, all the springs he found be-
ing too brackish to drink; when,
at last, he and his companions found
a fresh-water spring, near which
grew some of these plants, which
Labillardiére named Chorozema,
from two Greek words, signifying to
dance with joy from drinking.

Curistuas Rose.—See HEnue’-
BORUS.

Curist’s THorn.—See Pativ'-
RUS.
~, CHRYSA/NTHEMUM. —Composite.
The Chinese Chrysanthemum and
its varieties are well known, and
have, for many years, attracted the
attention of the cultivator, on ac-
count of the great variety of their
showy flowers, which are produced
from October to December. They
grow freely in any light rich soil,
and are readily increased by suckers,
division of the roots, layers, and
cuttings, which flower the same
year they are struck ; and they are
some of those plants that derive |
great advantage from frequent shift- |
ing. When this is neglected, the
stalks are apt to become long and
weak, with few or no branches ; |
and as the flowers are always ter- |
minal, they are consequently few
also. Taking off the points of the |
shoots will make the plants bushy,
but it will have tendency to pre-
vent their flowering; but repeat-
edly changing the pots always
into one only a little larger, will not
only make the plants bushy, but)
induce them to flower abundanily. |
When this mode of culture has been |
neglected, the Chrysanthemums
should be planted against a wall, |
or pegged down over a bed in the,

' nunculus-flowered,

‘included in this

flower-garden ; and by slightly pro-

‘tecting them during frosty nights,

they will frequently continue in
flower till January or February.
The varieties are continually chang-
ing ; new ones being raised every
year ; but nearly all the kinds may
be classed in one or other of the
following seven divisions :—the Ra-
the Incurved,
the China Aster-flowered, the Mari-
gold-flowered, the Clustered, the
Tasseled, and the Quilled. The
botanical name of the species was
formerly Chrysanthemum sinénse,
but it is now removed to the genus
Pyrethrum. The best annual Chry-

| santhemums are C. tricolor L. (C.

carinatum Schous), with white,
yellow, and purple flowers, and C.
coronarium L., with yellow flowers,
both of which are quite hardy, and
well worth a place in the flower-
garden. Seeds may be procured
from all the seedsmen.
Curysr's.—Another name for
HscHscHo’LTzia.
CuRyYsO’cOoMA. — Composite. —
Golden-Locks. — Low soft-wooded
shrubs from the Cape, with yellow
flowers. They thrive well in a mix-
ture of loam and peat, and are readily
increased by cuttings. The herba-
ceous plants which were formerly
genus are now
removed to the genera Linosijris,
Euthamia, and Bigelivia. These
are all natives of North America,
and all hardy perennials, which will

_grow in any common soil, and are

speedily propagated by division of
the roots.
CHRYSOSPLE'NIUM.—Sawifragee.
—Golden Saxifrage.— Herbaceous
plants, with yellow flowers, natives
of Britain, North America, and
Nepal, not growing more than 4 or
5 inches high. They are rather dif-
ficult to cultivate, but succeed best
in a moist shady situation, near a

ene

———— ne

Ee

CINERARIA. 62 CINERARTIA.

rivulet, or at the foot of rockwork,
or in a grotto. They should be
grown in a mixture of loam and
peat, and are propagated by division
of the roots.

Cuymoca’rpus. — Tropeolacee.
—C. pentaphyllus is Prof. Don’s
name for Tropeéolum pentaphyllum.
The general appearance of the plant
resembles that of T’rope'olum trico-
lorum; but when examined closely,
the flowers will be found to differ
in their construction, and in the
number of the little inner petals,
which are five in Tropzolum, and
only two in Chymocarpus. The root
of the first also somewhat resembles
a potato, and that of the last a
carrot. Chymocdarpus pentaphyllus
is a beautiful climbing plant from
Buenos Ayres, growing freely in
sandy peat and loam, in the open
air, if planted against a south wall ;
but generally kept in a green-house.
It grows very rapidly, and produces
a profusion of red and green flowers
during the whole summer, which,
should the autumn be favourable,

| are succeeded by a number of black

juicy berries, which, in flavour and
appearance, are not unlike the Zante
grape. It grows freely from seeds,
if sown in a gentle heat immediately
they are ripe, and may be increased
by cuttings, or division of the roots,
When it is grown in a pot, care
must be taken not to over-water it,
when the stems have died down in
the autumn. When trained over a
wire frame, it makes a splendid
show when in flower or fruit.
Cuinco'na.—Peruvian Bark.
CINERA'RIA.— Composite.— The
Cape Aster.—The half-shrubby
plants belonging to this genus are
all of easy culture, and hybridise
freely with each other; and when
it is added that they produce a great
abundance of showy flowers, it will

in general cultivation. They are
nearly hardy, but are always grown
in pots, as they flower so early in
the season, that in the open ground
their flower-buds would be liable to
be nipped by frost. They are grown
in light rich soil, and only require
ordinary attention in watering.
They are propagated by dividing the
roots in August, by cuttings struck
in autumn, or by seeds, which they

ripen in abundance. The seed should |

be sown in May, on a slight hotbed,
and the young plants pricked out
into small pots, and shifted fre-
quently during the summer. If they
are wanted to flower in December,
they should be kept in the green-
house all the year, and they will
begin to throw up their flower-stalks
in October; but if they are not
wanted to flower before April, the
usual time of their flowering, they
may stand in the open air, and need
not be shifted above three or four
times during the summer; and in
October they may be put into a cold
pit, where they may remain just
protected from the frost, till March,
when they will begin to send up
their flower-stalks. Nearly all the
beautiful purple-flowered kinds are
varieties of hybrids of C. cruénta, a
native of the Canaries. The finest
hybrids are C. Waterhousiana, C.

Hendersonii, and the kind called |

the King; but new kinds are raised
every season.

The herbaceous species of Cine-
raria have nearly all yellow flowers,
and many of them are natives of
Europe. They should be grown in
rather light soil, and they are pro-
pagated by division of the root. C.
aurea, with golden-yellow flowers,
a native of Siberia, is one of the
handsomest species. Professor De
Candolle, in his late arrangement of
the Composit, has removed all the

not appear surprising that they are | purple-flowered species formerly in-

CITRUS.

cluded in the genus Cineraria, to
Senecio.

Circ#a. — Onagracee. — En-
chanter’s Nightshade. A _ pretty
little British plant, growing in any
soil and situation.
| Cr'stus.—Cistinee.—The Rock
Rose.—Beautiful hardy and half
hardy shrubs, which grow freely in
a mixture of loam and peat, and
are readily increased by cuttings
planted under a hand-glass, layers,
or seeds, which are ripened in
abundance. Most of the species are
of low growth, and are generally
used for rockwork; but some are
tall handsome shrubs, such as the
Gum Cistus (C. cyprius and C. la-
daniferus), and the purple-flowered
Cistus (C. purpireus). The dwarf
kinds, being generally rather tender, |
will require a slight protection
during severe winters, when they
are planted out on rockwork.

Cirrus L.—Aurantiacee.—The
genus Citrus includes Oranges,
Lemons, Limes, Citrons, Shaddocks,

&e., all well deserving cultivation, |
both for their flowers and their |
fruit, but of which only a few kinds |
of Oranges and Lemons are gene-
rally grown. They all thrive well
| in a mixture of rich loam with a
| little rotten dung; but great care is
necessary not to overpot them, or to
give them too much water when not
in a growing state. On the Conti-
nent, they are indeed frequently
kept during winter ina cellar, almost
without either light or water, and
brought into the open air during
summer. The different species and
varieties are generally propagated
by budding, grafting, and inarch-
ing on the common Lemon, which
grows readily from seed. The best
time to do this is in February or
March, when the grafts, &c., will
take well, and in a very short
time ; and if grafted on good strong

63

CLEMATIS.

stocks, they will make handsome
plants by the autumn. As soon
as the grafting or budding has been
performed, the plants should be set

in a close frame on a moderate hot- |

bed, but not plunged into it, as
from the tenderness of their roots,
that might injure them. Oranges
are also frequently raised from seeds;
but unless they are budded or
grafted when about two years old,
it will be many years before they
flower. Orange-trees may also be
propagated by cuttings, which are
best of the old wood, struck in sand
in a gentle bottom-heat, and shaded.
Plants raised in this manner flower
and fruit much sooner than any
others, but they scarcely ever attain
a large size.

~ CLA’RKIA.—Onagrdcee.—Beau-
tiful hardy annuals, with rose-
coloured, white, and purple flowers,
natives of California, requiring the
same treatment as the California
annuals, They may, however, be
sown in spring; and as, when this

is the case, they are apt to become

drawn up, the general appearance of
the bed is much improved by sow-
ing Mignonette with the Clarkia
seeds in March or April.

Crary.—A kind of Sa’nyra.

Ciay.—See Earrus.

CLAYTO'NIA. — Portuldcee. —
Hardy herbaceous plants, some an-
nual and some perennial, with
pretty pink and white flowers, but
having rather a weedy appearance.
They grow best in a peat border, and
are increased by seeds which some-
times ripen in abundance.

~ CLe’MatTis. — Ranunculacee. —

Half-hardy and hardy climbers ;
shrubby and herbaceous; with
white and purple flowers. They
are all most desirable plants, of the
easiest culture in any light rich soil,
and readily propagated by cuttings
of the young wood, or seeds, which

a

CLERODENDRUM.

64

CLIANTHUS.

are frequently ripened plentifully.
C. montana is very ornamental and
quite hardy. It is also of very rapid
growth. C. flérida, with white
flowers; C. Siebéldti or bicolor,
with white and purple flowers, and
CO. azurea or coerulea, with beauti-
ful violet-blue flowers, are among
the handsomest of conservatory
climbers; and under glass they
frequently come into blossom early
in March. In the open air, they do
not flower till May or June. C.
Sieboldti and C. azureus will flower
and grow well in the open air, but
they are sometimes killed to the
ground by frost. C. Vzticélla, and
its varieties, C. Fladmmula, C. Hen-
dersonii, and C. cylindrica, are all
quite hardy, and form most beauti-
ful objects when trained over lat-
tice work, or baskets in the flower-
garden; and no garden, however
small, ought to be without one or,
more of these species. Syn B72

CLEO'ME.—Capparidee.—Splen-
did stove shrubs, annuals and bien-
nials, with one or two half-hardy
annuals, with white, rose, and pur-
ple flowers, of easy culture in any
light rich soil.

CLERODE/NDRUM.— Verhendacea.
—Very ornamental stove shrubs,
chiefly natives of the Tropics.
They all grow freely in a light rich
soil, composed of two parts of
loam, one of rotten dung, and one
of peat. They require frequent
shifting from small pots to larger
ones, to make them flower freely.
They strike readily from cuttings
of the young wood planted under a
hand-glass ; or cuttings of the roots
planted in a pot, with their tops
just above the surface of the mould,
and plunged in a hot-bed, will root
readily. The most desirable species
are C. fragrans, with pink flowers;

‘

phyllum, with white flowers. Seve-
ral of the species were , formerly
called Volkaméria. (4 cht % 0%
CLe'THRA. — Fricucee@. — Hardy
and half-hardy shrubs, with white
flowers ; of which C. arborea forms
a very handsome small tree, when
planted out in free soil in a conser-
vatory, or in a sheltered situation
in the open air, producing a great
profusion of spikes of white flowers
from August to October. C. alni-
folia and some other species are
quite hardy. ' All the species thrive
well in a mixture of loam and peat,
and they are all readily increased by
layers, cuttings, or seeds.
Cui’/antuus. — Legumindse. —
C. puniceus, the crimson Glory
Pea, is a magnificent half-hardy
shrub, with bright crimson flowers,
a native of New Zealand. It grows
very freely in rich loam, if its roots
are allowed sufficient room; and it
generally thrives most when planted
against the back wall of a conserva-
tory or against a, south wall in the
open air, requiring only the protec-
tion of a mat in winter. Cuttings
planted in pots in the autumn, and
kept in a shady part of the green-
house, will be rooted by the spring,
when they may be planted in the
open border. It is a plant that
rarely flowers well in a pot; as it
requires abundance of room for its
roots, and grows rapidly with
rather succulent shoots, requiring
abundance of water during the
growing season, and very little at
any other time. When grown in the
open ground, the juicy nature of its
roots renders it a favourite food for
snails ; and when kept in the con-
servatory or green-house, it is very
apt to be attacked by the red
spider. If these enemies be kept
away, and the plant be grown in

C. paniculatum and C. squamatum, | rich soil, composed of equal parts of
with scarlet flowers ; and C. macro- | loam and thoroughly rotten manure,

te en se ee

CLIMBING PLANTS.

65

CLINTONIA.

and well supplied with air, light,
and water, with abundance of room
for its roots, the rapidity of its
growth, and the splendour of its
flowers, will almost surpass belief ;
but unless these points are attended
to, the plant isscarcely worth grow-
ing.

‘CLIMATE is the grand regulator |
of vegetable culture ; and the ‘garden |
or landscape scenery-of every coun- |
try depends far more on the climate |
of that country than on its soil. In|
modern times the climates of all |
other countries are imitated by hot-
houses ; a practice scarcely, if at all,
known to the ancients. In imita-
ting a climate, it is not only neces- |
sary to attend to temperature, but
equally so to light, and, to a cer-
tain extent, to the moisture of the

atmosphere, and to the motion of)

the air and its change. Heat is
communicated to plant-structures
by the decomposition of fermenting
substances, and by the combustion
of fuel, operating by means of
smoke or heated air in flues, or by
water circulated in pipes, either in
a fluid state or in an aériform
state, as steam; or by the heat of
the sun passing through glass, and
heating air which is not allowed to
escape. The last mode is never
wanting, whichever of the former
modes may be adopted. The moist-
ure of the atmosphere in plant-
structures is maintained by water-
ing the plants ; and by keeping the
surface of the ground and floor
more or less moistened with water,
according to the height of the tem-
perature. The motion of the air is
effected by ventilation, and opening
the doors and windows of the plant-
houses, so as to create a current
through them, whenever the wea-
ther will permit.

CLimpine PxLants are those
plants that raise themselves from

the ground by attaching themselves
to whatever objects may be near
them. One class of climbers attach
themselves by tendrils, such as the
Vine and the Passion-flower ; others
by the foot-stalks of leaves, as in

| the Nasturtium, and some species

of Clematis; another class twine
their stems round objects such as
the Convolvulus; while some at-
‘tach themselves by small root-like
bodies, such as the common Ivy, and
the Ampelopsis, or Virginian Creeper,
and others raise themselves by
ascending through other plants, such
as the common Nightshade in hedges,
}and the plant called the Duke of
Argyle’s Tea-tree, Lycium bdar-
barum. The twiners may be sup-
ported by single rods ; but all the
j obness excepting those which sup-
port themselves in the manner of
| the Ivy, require branched stakes,
such as the sticks put into rows of
peas ; while plants of the nature of
Ivy require a wall, a rock, or the
rugged trunk ofatree. In general,
all climbing plants, when they are
not furnished with the means of
raising themselves up, extend their
shoots along the surface of the
ground, when they become what are
called trailers; or they root into it
like the Ivy, and become what are
called creepers. Climbing plants are
of great use in gardening, for cover-
ing walls, ornamenting trellis-work,
arcades, verandahs, ornamental
props, in the form of cones, pyra-
mids, parasols, Xe.

Ciinto‘n1a.—Lobeliticecee.—Beau-
tiful little annuals, flowering pro-
fusely the whole summer. They are
natives of California, but will bear
heat better than the generality of
annuals from that country. They
are generally raised on a hotbed (the
seeds being sown in February), and
planted out in May ; but they may
be sown in the open border in April.

ee Ta SE SEN SEES

eS ERENT EES SRTU PRETEND mrene we

CLIPPING,

66

They require a very rich soil, con-
sisting of one part of sandy loam,
two of vegetable mould, and one of
rotten manure; or, where vegetable
mould cannot readily be procured,
of equal parts of sandy loam and
manure; and they should be con-
stantly watered while they are grow-
ing.
flower, and looks like its footstalk.
If the seeds are sown in pots as

| soon as they are ripe, and kept in

shelter all the winter, they will be
ready for planting out into beds or
boxes, for a verandah or balcony, in
March or April, and they will be
brilliantly in flower by May; and if
constantly watered, they will con-
tinue to produce a succession of
blossoms till the plants are des-
troyed by frost.

Cirppine or shearing plants was
a very common practice in gardens
with all shrubs, many trees, and
even fruit-bearing bushes, such as
the Gooseberry and the Currant,
from the earliest times up to the
commencement of the last century ;
but it is now chiefly confined to
hedges and edgings. Evergreen
hedges, such as those of Holly, Yew,
and Box, are generally clipped about
midsummer; and this is also the
season for clipping Box edgings.
Deciduous hedges, such as those of
the common Thorn, may either be
clipped immediately after midsum-
mer, or during winter; as during

the latter season, the sap is in a/

great measure dormant, and the
wounded points of the shoots are the
less liable to be injured by frosts.
In general, both evergreen and de-
ciduous hedges and edgings may be
elipped at any period after the
growth for the season is completed;
but if cut or clipped before that
takes place, the amputated shoots
are apt to make a second growth,
which thickens too much the sur-

The seed-pod is below the |

face of the hedge, and, by excluding
the air, causes the ‘decay of the
interior branches. Broad-leaved
plants used as hedges, such as the
| common Laurel, should be cut with
the knife by hand; as, when the
large leaves are cut through, the
appearance of the hedge afterwards
is mutilated and unsightly. Holly
hedges are also best cut by hance.
Privet, Yew, and Box hedges may
also be clipped. Thorn hedges, in
the best agricultural districts, are
generally cut with a hedge-bill; and
the stroke is always made upwards,
in order not to fracture the shoots ;
as breaking them, by admitting
moisture, causes them to decay at
the points, and also stimulates them
to produce small shoots which
thicken the hedge too much at the
surface. There are two kinds of
shears for cutting hedges : the com-
mon kind, in which the two blades
work on a fixed pivot, and make a
crushing cut which bruises the
shoot; and the pruning-shears, in
which the pivot is fixed into one
blade, and the other moves over it
in a groove, in consequence of which
a draw-cut is produced in the same
| taanner as if the hedge had been cut
by hand with a knife. All hedges,
and especially all garden hedges,
'should be cut with this kind of
| shears.

CLOTHING THE STEMS OF TREES
‘is a practice resorted to with half-
hardy species, such as some kinds of
Magnolia, for the purpose of pre-
serving vitality in the lower part of
the stem, and the collar or neck of
the tree, by excluding the cold, and
throwing off the rain ; because it is
found that the seat of life in all
plants is chiefly in the collar, and
consequently that a tree may have
all its branches killed, and all its
roots, excepting a part of the trunk
‘next the collar, and a part of the

CLOTHING THE STEMS OF TREES. —

SS
ee ES

COBAA,

main roots below it, and yet live.
The best kind of clothing is wheat
straw, or long slips of bark ; and

these ought to be spread out at the |

base of the trunk, so as to throw off
the rain to a foot or two of distance
from the collar.
Cosm‘a.—Cobedcee or Poleino-
niaceee.—C. scandens is a climbing
plant of very rapid growth, and pro-
ducing abundance of large bell-
shaped flowers, whichare first green,
but afterwards become purple. The
plant, if allowed plenty of room for
its roots, and grown in a rich sandy
loam, will extend along a wall or
trellis, thirty or forty feet, in the
course of a single summer. When
it is wanted to cover any broad
space, the points of the shoots should
be repeatedly pinched off, to make it
throw out lateral shoots; and these
should be trained to cover the bare

places. When the wallis rough, the |

plant will adhere to it by means of
its own tendrils; but it is generally
better either to nail it, or to tie it to
any projecting parts with strands of
bast mat. The roots may be either
in the open ground, in the free soil
of the conservatory, or ina pot; but
in the latter case they should be
allowed abundance of room, and the
pot should be well drained. The
plant may also be treated either as
an annual, a biennial, or a peren-
nial, according to convenience. When
treated as an annual, the seeds
should be sown on a hotbed in
February ; and the plants should be
transplanted into pots, and after-
wards into the open ground, where
they are to flower, in April or May.
When the plant is grown as a bien-
nial, the seeds should be sown as
soon as they are ripe, in pots, and
the young plants should be kept
under shelter in a room or green-
house during winter, transplanting
them two or three times till spring,

67

COCCINELLA.

_when they should be removed to the
open ground, or to a larger pot, for
|flowering. It may also be treated
asa perennial, when cuttings should
be struck in autumn under a bell-
glass, and the pots plunged into a
hotbed or tan-pit; or, if the plants
be growing in the open air, layers
may be made by pegging down the
lower shoots of the growing plants
on the ground, and leaving them in
the open garden ; only taking care to
protect them, after they are sepa-
rated from the parent plant, by a
hand-glass during winter. Till
lately, C. scéndens was the only
species of the genus known ; but in
the autumn of 1839, and the spring
of 1840, some other species were
raised from Mexican seeds sent home
by Mr. Hartweg one of the botanical
collectors employed to collect new
plants by the London Horticultural
Society. The common Cobea is also
a native of Mexico, where it is called
by a Spanish name, signifying the
Violet-bearing Ivy.
Coccrtnr’LLA.—Under this name
naturalists distinguish the little
beetles generally called lady-birds, or
lady-cows. They creep slowly when
in their perfect state, and they are
generally found on the ground; and
though they fly fast and well, they
are rarely seen on the wing. They
do no injury to plants, either in their
larva or their perfect state ; and when
the perfect beetle is found on a plant,
it is to find a place where it can lay
its eggs. Instinct teaches it to visit
those plants most infested with
aphides, for it is on these noxious
insects that the larva of the lady-bird
feeds ; and consequently, the eggs of
that insect, which are of a bright
yellow, arealways found on the leaves
of the shoots, the points of which are
covered with the green-fly. The
| larve are flattish, fleshy grubs, taper-
|ing to the tail; they have six legs,

FQ

Se

|
|
|
|
|
|

COCHLEARTA.

andare veryactive. Some years lady-
birds are much more numerous than
in others; but their numbers are
always found to bear a proportion to
those of the aphides on which they
feed. In France and Germany, no
peasant will kill them, because they
are considered to be sacred to the
Holy Virgin ; whence, no doubt, they
have received the name of lady-bird.
When these insects are caught, they
fold up their legs, and emit a yellow
fluid from their joints, which has a
very unpleasant smell, but which is
so far from being injurious, that it is
considered a remedy for the tooth-
ache. Sometimes the country people
even crush the poor beetle, and apply
it to a hollow tooth, to prevent it
from aching ; and thus, as in many
other cases, in the hope of an imagi-
nary good, they do themselves a real
evil; as, of course, it is the interest
of all amateurs of gardening, and
particularly all lovers of roses, to
protect the lady-birds.

Co’ccus. —The _ scale-insect. —
These insects are troublesome on
many plants; but more so in the
kitchen-garden, on the Vine and the

Pine-apple, than on flowering plants..

One species of Coccus infests the
Opuntia, and is what we call cochi-
neal; and another, on a kind of
Fig-tree in India, produces the sub-
stance we call shel-lac, which is
used in making sealing-wax. The
only cure for these insects is brush-
ing them off, and washing the
branches affected with soft soap and
water.

CocHINEAL Fic.—See Opvu/nTIA.

CocuLEa ‘RIA. —Crucifere. --The
Scurvy-grass. —T'wovery pretty little
plants, suitable for rock-work, have
been lately introduced, which were
classed, by De Candolle, under this
genus, viz. C. saxifragefolia and
C. acailis, but both have been
removed to new genera ; and for the

68

COLD HOUSES.

first see GRaAx’LusIA, and for the
second see Ionopsr’/p1uM.

Cock’s-comMB.—See CrEto'sIA.

COCKSPUR-THORN. See Cra-
TAEGUS.

Corre‘a.—Cinchoniicee, or Ru-
biacece.—The Coffee-treein England,
becomes a stove-shrub, which should
be grown in loam and peat, in pots
well drained, and sufficiently large to
allow of plenty of room for its roots.
The flowers, which appear in August
or September, are white and sweet-
scented, and the fruit is round and
of a brilliant scarlet, inclosing two
closely-packed seeds, which are the
coffee. If the plant is kept well
watered, it will flower every year,
and the seeds will. often ripen in
England ; but the coffee made from
them is very inferior to even the
worst of that ripened in the Tropics.
The Coffee-tree, being a native of
Arabia, requires a dry heat when it
is in a growing state, and only a
moderate degree or warmth in winter.
When kept in a moist stove, without
a free circulation of air, the leaves
become mildewed and infested with
insects.

Co'Lcuicum. — Melanthacee. —
Meadow Saffron.—A hardy bulbous-
rooted plant, which will grow in any
common soil.—The flowers come up
through the ground withoutthe leaves
inautumn, andclosely resemble those
of the Crocus. The leaves do not
appear till the following spring, and
great care should be taken of them ;
as if they should be injured, so as to
prevent them from exercising their
proper functions in maturing the sap,
the bulb will not flower the next
autumn. An extract of Colchicum is
given in medicine for the rheumatism
and the gout; and it is said to form
the basis of the celebrated eau médi-
cinale. Itis, however, poisonous if
taken in large quantities.

CoLp HovsEes FOR PLANTS are

|
|

COLUTEA.

not generally in use, though it is a
common practice with gardeners to
remove plants from hothouses into
the back sheds, in order to retard
their blossoming or the ripening of
their fruit. It is also the practice in
some countries to place pots of fruit-
bearing or flowering shrubs in ice-
houses, so as to keep them, dormant
through the summer ; and in autumn
to remove them to forcing-houses,
where, in consequence of having been
so long in a state of rest, they grow

with great rapidity, and come into |

flower much sooner than if they had
not been so long retarded. Bulbs
arealsoretardedina similar manner ;
and even nosegays are placed in ice-
houses in Italy and other warm
countries, when it is wished to

retard their decay for particular |

occasions.

— CoLirnsta. —Scrophuldrine. —
Californian annuals, of great beauty,
and well deserving cultivation. The
handsomest species are C. bicolor
and C. heterophylla, which are very
nearly allied ; and which, if sown in
autumn, and grown in rich loamy

soil, will grow two feet high, and |

will produce splendid spikes of
flowers. C. grandifloraand C. vérna
are also very nearly allied, if not the
same; and they are smaller plants,
withrathersmall, but brightcoloured
flowers. OC. vérna has bright blue
and white flowers. They grow best
in stiff clay.
«CoLLo'MiA. — Polemoniacee. —
Hardy annuals, natives of California,
but scarcely worth growing from
their coarse and weedy appearance.
C. coccinea is, perhaps, the best.
Coxt’s-Foot.—See TussILa‘ao.
CoLUMBINE.—See AQUILE'GIA.
Cotu'TEA. — Legumindse. —The

| Bladder Senna.—Large deciduous

hardy shrubs, growing and flowering
freelyinanycommonsoil. C. cruénta
is the smallest and the handsomest

69

COMPOSIT#.

species. They are all propagated by
layers or cuttings.

CoMBRE‘TuM. — Combretacee. —
Splendid climbing — stove-shrubs,
natives of Sierra Leone, where they
support themselves by means of a
very curious kind of hook, formed
by the persistent foot-stalks of the
withered leaves. The principal kinds
are C. purpiereum, C. comdsum,
and C. grandiflorum. They are all
very beautiful, and all require to be
grown in a mixture of loam and peat.
They are propagated by cuttings or
layers. Though generally grown in
a stove, they may be made to flower
in a greenhouse, or in the open air.
—See ALLAMA’/NDA.

CoMMELI'NA. — Commelinew. —
Perennial and annual plants, hardy
and tender, with beautiful bright blue
flowers. C. celéstis L. has tuberous
roots, but it may be raised from seed,
by sowing it in a hotbed early in the
season, and turning it out into the
open border in common garden-soil,
tolerably rich, during the summer ;
and in autumn its tuberous roots
may be taken up, and preserved
during the winter, to be replanted
in the open ground in spring; or
they may be protected by covering
the ground with ashes or sand.

Compo’sITz. The composite
flowers, such as the Daisy, are in
fact heads of flowers, composed of
hundreds of little fiowers or florets,
as they are called by botanists, each
of which has its corolla, stamens,
pistil, and fruit ; the whole being
surrounded by an involucre which
iooks likea calyx. The central part,
which in the Daisy is yellow, is
called the disk, and the florets com-
posingitare tubular; while the outer
part, which in the Daisy is white, is
called the ray, and its florets are ligu-
late, or flat,and open at the extremity,
andtubularatthebase. Othergenera
have all the florets tubular, as the

ee ee ee
ee cE ng SSL a RT

CONSERVATIVE

WALL. “

0

CONSERVATIVE WALL.

common Bluebottle, and the Sweet
Sultan ; and others are all ligulate,
as in the Dandelion, and Sowthistle.
Thislast genusaffordsa good example
of the pappus, a sort of feathery
crown apparently attached to the
seed, but which is in fact the upper

part of the calyx cut into very fine |

hair-like divisions ; thecalyxremain-
ing attached to the seed when ripe.
The pappusis also seen conspicuously
in Thistledown and the Dandelion ;
but some genera of the Composit
are without it, as for example, the
Daisy and the Chrysanthemum.

Compost-Grounp.—A space in
some secluded part of a garden, near
the hothouses and pits, and the tool-
house and reserve-ground, in which
different kinds of soils, manures, and
composts are prepared and kept.
Though secluded, it should not be
shaded altogether from the sun ; and
the ground should be drained, in
order that the manure, &c., may not
be soaked with moisture.

Compost.—This word is applied
to any soil that is composed of several
different ingredients ; such as sand,
loam and peat, or vegetable mould,
&c. These mixed soils are found to
be much better for plants than any
soil consisting of only one material ;
and thus, whenever choice plants are
to be grown, directions are generally
given for making a compost for them.
In all large gardens, heaps of several
different kinds of earths are kept in
the reserve-ground ready for mixing
as they may be required; but in
small suburban gardens, peat, loam,
and sand will suffice. These soils
may be bought in small quantities
from the London nurserymen, say
sixpenny worth or a shilling’s worth
of each ; and they may be kept in
large pots ina back shed, for mixing
as required.

CONSERVATIVE WALL. — Many
greenhouse and some hothouse plants,

particularly such as are deciduous,
and are naturally of rapid and vigor-
ous growth, are found to succeed
remarkably well when planted out
during the summer season in the
open garden, either as standards or
against a wall. Those which are
planted as standards or bushes in
the open beds or borders, grow
vigorously during the months of
June, July, and August, but require
to be taken up in September and
preserved during the winter in pots
or boxes for planting out next season.
Thisis practised with Fuchsias, Brug-
mansias, Pelargoniums, and similar
plants. Other shrubs are planted
against a wall with a southern expo-
sure ; and these not only grow and
sometimes fiower during the summer,
but if protected during the winter
with matting, or a projecting roof, or
both, they will live for several years,
growing vigorously, and flowering
every season. The common myrtle,
some of the Acacias, the Eucalypti,
and a number of the rapid-growing
New Holland shrubs, are so treated
with great success; and the fine
appearance which they make in the
summer season, amply repays the
expense and trouble which must be
taken with them. There is scarcely
any limit to the number and kinds of
shrubs which may be treated in this
way ; for while the taller and more
rapid-growing kindsaremadetocover
the upper part of the wall, the dwarfer
species may be trained against the
lower part, and herbaceous plants,
including bulbs, may be planted all
along the base. The border in which
the plants are grown should be a light
sandy soil, of no great depth; and it
would be an advantage to thatch it
during the winter season, to carry off
the rain to a distance from the roots
of the plants. The drier all half-
hardy plants are kept in the open
ground, the better, excepting during

SL

CONSERVATORY.

— =

the growing and flowering season; in | excepting, perhaps, some of the |

Ld
i

i CONVOLVULUS.

order that the plants may make | climbers, and to renew the soil, and —
no more wood than what they can | replant either with the same or
with other plants, or with part of |

thoroughly ripen.
purposes of this kind are called con-
servative walls ; and nextto conserva-
tories, they form the most interesting
scenes to the lovers of plants in an
ornamental garden.
CoNnSERVATORY.—This term ori-
ginally implied 2 house in which
orange-trees and other large shrubs,

or small trees, were preserved from |

frost during the winter ; but, at pre-
sent, it is applied to houses with
glass roofs, in which the plants are
grown in the free soil, and allowed
to assume their natural shapes and
habits of growth. A conservatory is
generally situated so as to be entered

trom one of the rooms of the house

to which it belongs; and from which
it is often separated only by a glass
door, or by a small lobby with glass
doors. li should, if possible, have
one side facing the south ; butif it is
glazed on every side, it may have
any aspect, not even excepting the
north; though, in the latter case, it
will only be suitable for very strong
jeathery-leaved evergreens, such as
Camellias, Myrtles, &c. The bed
for the plants should be of sandy
loam (that being the soil that will
suit most plants), two or three feet
deep, and thoroughly drained. The
plants should be of kinds that will
grow in a few years nearly as high as
the glass; and they should, as much
as possible, be all of the same degree
of vigour, otherwise the stronger
kinds will fill the soil with their
roots, and overpower the weaker.
This, to a certain extent, takes place

in all conservatories, and is unavoid-

able. The only remedy for the evil
is occasionally to cut in the large
roots of the stronger plants, and
prune in their tops, and every six or
seven years to take up all the plants,

Walls used for |

both. The pillars which support the
roof, and, to a certain extent, the
under side of the rafters, may be
clothed with creepers; but great

care must be taken that these do |
not exclude too much light from the |
plants beneath them, which may |

always be known by the etiolated
sickly appearance of the latter. The

most suitable plants for conserva- |

tories are those that flower in the

winter season, or very early in ~
spring; such as the Acacias, Ca- |
mellias, Malaleucus, Metrosideroses, |
Banksias, Oleanders, &c.; and for |

climbers, the Kennedyas, Zichyas,

Hardenbergias, Bignonias, Tecomas, |
Ipomeeas, Cobeas, Passifloras, Tac- |

sonias, Clematises, &c.

ConvaLLa‘R1a.—Smildcee.--The |
Lily of the Valley.—A well-known |
and very fragrant little flower, said |
to be found wild in some parts of |

England. It requires rather a dry

soil, which should be tolerably light. |
The plant is increased by dividing ©

the roots, which are very numerous ;
and though it is generally supposed
to like the shade, it will not flower
well unless it has plenty of light.
Solomon’s Seal is also a kind of
convalaria.
Convo’LvuULUs.—Convolvulacee.
— Well-known splendid climbing
plants, hardy and half-hardy, annual
and perennial. They all require a
rich but light soil, and will grow
well in a compost of equal parts of
heath-mould and loam, enriched
with about the proportion of a fourth
part to the whole of decayed leaves,
or thoroughly rotten manure ; and
they should be trained against stakes
or trellis work, as their stems are too
feeble to supportthemselves. Most of
the tender kinds of Convolvulus were

—

CORMS. ‘

separated from it by Linneus, and
formed into the genus Jpomea. All
thestove kinds may be made to flower
in the open air, during summer, by
contriving to keep the roots in heat;
and the hardy species cnly require
sowing in the open ground. The
hardy kinds of Convolvulus, or
Bindweed, have been separated from
the others and formed into a genus
under the name of Calystégia; and
in 1844, a double-flowered kind was
introduced from China by Mr.

| Fortune, called Calystéegia pubéscens,

being the first double Convolvulus
ever known. It is a half-hardy
climber, requiring a rich loamy soil,
and being increased by the roots.
li flowers in July and August, and
its blossoms, which are of a very pale
delicate blush colour, or French
white, remain open several days.
CoraL TrRrEE.—See ERYTHRI'NA.
Co’rcHoRUS.— Tiliacee. — Hot-
house plants, not sufficiently orna-
mental to be worthy of general culti-
vation. For the well-known Japan
half-hardy shrub, generally called
Cérchorus japonicus, see KE’RRIA.
CoREO’ psis.—Compésite.— Most
of the showy annuals formerly known
by this name, are now called Calliop-
sis, while most of the perennial
species are still left in the former
genus. For the difference between
the derivation of the two names, and
the culture of the annual species, see |
Cauuio’psis. The perennial kinds |
are quite hardy; but as they are |
tall-growing spreading plants, they
require a great deal of room, and |
should be planted at the back of the |
borders. They will grow in any |
common soil; and they are propa-
gated by division of the roots.
Corms.—Bulbous plants, such as
the Crocus, the different kinds of
Morea, the Babianas, and most of |
the Iridacee., Bulbs are of different |
kinds ; those which have a number

2 CORNUS.
of coats, or skins, one within the
other, like the Hyacinth, which are
called tunicated bulbs, and those
which consist of a number of scales,
only attached to the base, like the
Lily ; but what are called corms, are
only a solid mass of feculent matter,
which modern botanists do not allow
to be bulbs, but call underground
stems. Corms do not require taking
up so often as bulbs ; and when they
are intended to remain for several
years in the ground, they should be
planted from four to six inches deep
at first; as every year a new corm
will form above the old one; and
thus, if planted too near the surface,
the corm, in a few years, will be
pushed out of the ground.

Corn CockLe.—See GirHa'co.

CoRNELIAN CHERRY.—See Co’R-
NUS.

Corn FiLac.—See Guanpr'oLvus.

Co’RnvUSs.—Cornacee.— The Dog-
wood.— Well-known shrubs, with
whitish or yellowish flowers, and
dark purple berries. The species are
generally ornamental, from the shin-
ing red bark of their branches in
winter, and the intensely dark
purplish red of their leaves in
autumn. One species, Cornus mds,
the Cornelian Cherry-tree, a native
of Europe, is remarkable for the
large size and brilliant colour of its
fruit; and another, a native of
North America, Cornus florida, for
the large size of its involucres, or
floral leaves,” which surround its
flowers, and which are of a brilliant
white inside, and tinged with violet
on the outside. All the species are
remarkable for the hardness of their
wood, and for the great length of
time which their seeds will remain
in the ground before they come up.
On this account, when any kind of
Cornus is to be raised from seed,
the seeds should be steeped in water
before sowing ; but, generally speak-

ey

CORRZA. 7

3 CORYDALIS.

ing, all the kinds are propagated by Several new species, or hybrids, have

layers or cuttings of the old wood,
both of which strike root freely. C.
florida is generally grown in peat, in
asheltered situation, and thrives best
when its roots are kept in the shade;
but unless its foliage is fully exposed

| to the influence of the sun, it will

not flower. Travellers in North
America describe what are called
there the Dogwoods, as vast forests
of this tree, about twelve feet high,
with their branches so interlaced as
to prevent a gleam of sunshine from
reaching their roots.

Coronr’LLa. — Legunindse. —
Ornamental shrubs, hardy and half-
hardy, with bright yellow flowers,
and pinnate leaves. C. E’merus, the
Scorpion Senna, a native of the South
of Europe, and the commonest and
hardiest species, has the flower-buds
red, and the expanded flowers of a
bright yellow. It will grow in any
soil or situation, and, as it will bear
clipping without much injury, it may
be used as a hedge-plant. It will
thrive in any garden-soil, and it is
propagated by cuttings of the ripe
wood or by layers. C. Glatca, which

| isanative of France, has bluish-green

leaves and yellow flowers, which are
fragrant during the day, but lose
their scent at night. It flowers early
and freely, and though generally
kept in the greenhouse, it is very
nearly hardy. The soil should be a
sandy loam, mixed with a fourth
part of vegetable mould, or rotten
manure; and the pots should be well
Grained. It is propagated by seeds,
which it ripens in abundance, or by
cuttings in sand, under a bell-glass.

Corr#'a. — Rutdcee. — Dwarf
greenhouse shrubs, with leathery
leaves, which are generally either
brown or white on the under surface.
The flowers are tubular, but those of
C.dlba,and C. rifa, which are white,
are much less so than the others.

been introduced since 1835, all of
which appear most nearly allied to
C. specidsa. All the species and
varieties flower abundantly, pro-
ducing in a greenhouse a constant
succession of flowers from November
to June. They require an airy, but
a somewhat shaded situation. The
pots should be well drained, and
the soil should be heath-mould,
mixed with a little loam.
Corya/NTHES. — Orchidacee. —
Helmet - flower. — C. médcrantha
Lindl. (Gongdra madcrantha Hook.)
has a most singular red and yellow
flower, part of which resembles a
skeleton’s head, with the vertebree of
the neck, and part two folded bat’s
wings. The plant is grown in a pot
in sandy peat, mixed with lime rub-
bish ; and the soil is raised above the
level of the pot, as the flower-stalk
hangs down from the root. It isa
native of the West Indies ; and, like
most of the other tropical Orchi-
dacec, it requires abundance of heat
and moisture to throw it into flower.
A new species of this genus, with
still more singular flowers than those
of C. macrantha, was introduced in
1842. It is called C. Feildingii,
and is the largest orchideous flower
that has ever yet been found.
CorybDA‘Lis.—Fumaridcee, --The
plants composing this genus were
formerly considered to belong to
Fumaria, the Fumitory, but they
have been separated on account of the
different conformation of the capsule.
C. glatca, which is the most common
species, is an annual from North
America, which may be sown at
almost any season, and in any soil
and situation. C. claviculdta is a
British climber, also an annual, and
pretty from the abundance of its
small white flowers. It is of very
rapid growth, and it is useful ia
covering a trellis, &c., from the

Sh = et

COTONEASTER. fi

4 CRASSULA.

number and dense habit of growth of | their thick leathery evergreen leaves,

its leaves.
sandy or gravelly soil.
formerly included in this genus are
now called Diélytra.

Co/nyLus.—A mentdacee or Cupu-
lifere.—The botanic name of the
Hazel, Filbert, &c. The species are
generally shrubs ; but C. Coléirna,
the Constantinople nut, is a large
ornamental tree.—See HAzEL.

Corysa/NTHES. — Orchidaceee. —
Terrestrial orchidaceous plants, from
New Holland, which will grow in the
open air in England, if protected
from frost during winter. They
have dark brown flowers, and are so
seldom cultivated, that they would
not have been mentioned in the
present work, had it not been to
prevent them from being confounded
with Coryanthes, a genus of Stove
Orchidacee from the West Indies.

Co’sMrEA, or Co’sMUS.--Compésite.
—Mexican plants, generally grown as
annuals, but which have tuberous
roots like the Dahlia, and may be
treated like that plant. The flowers
are very showy, and of a reddish
purple; and the seeds, when the
plants are grown as annuals, should
be sown in March and April, in the
open ground ; or in autumn, if the
young plants can be protected during
winter. The plants will grow four
or five feet high in any common
garden-soil.

CoToNnEA’sTER.-- Rosacee. —Small
trees and shrubs, natives of Europe
and India, formerly considered to
belong to the same genus as the
Medlar. They are all well deserving
of cultivation inshrubberies, for their
bright scarlet or black fruit, and their
pretty white or pink flowers. The
Nepal species, C. frigida, C.affinis,
C. acuminita, and C. nummularia,
are the most ornamental. C.rotun-
difélia, and C. microphylla, also |
natives of Nepal, are remarkable for |

It grows best in a poor | their snow-white flowers, and their
Other plants | profusion of bright scarlet fruit.

Both the latter species form dwarf
spreading shrubs, and are very orna-
mental fora lawn. All the species
are hardy, and will grow in any com-
mon soil ; and they may all be pro-
pagated by seeds, layers, cuttings, or
grafting on the common quince or
hawthorn.

Cotron Grass.—See Err6rno-
RUM.

CotyLe‘bon. — Crassulacee. —
Navelwort.—Succulent plants, with
fleshy leaves, and yellow or red flow-
ers, nearly allied to the Houseleek.
They should be grown in light earth,
mixed with lime rubbish, or in a
compost of peat and loam ; and the
pots should be well drained. The
most ornamental species are natives
of the Cape of Good Hope ; and they
are propagated by cuttings, which
should be laid on a shelf for a few
days to dry before they are planted.
The European species are scarcely
worth cultivating. The plant called
Venus’s Navelwort does not belong
to this genus, but to Omphalddes.
C. Sempervivum Bieb. (Umbilicus
Sempervivum Dec.) is one of the
commonest species.

Co’ruLa. — Composite. — Hardy
and tender annuals, of which C.
aurea L., the flowers of which are
like little golden balls, is the only
one worth cultivating. It will grow
in any common garden soil, and re-
quires to be sown in March, with the
usual treatment of hardy annuals.

Cow-1TcH.—See Muccu'na.

Cows.ip. — Primulacee. — Pri-
mula véris, the common Cowslip, is
a well known British plant, which,
whencultivated in gardens, should be
grown in a loamy soil and sheltered
situation.

CrANE’S Bint. —See Gera‘nrum.

Cra’ssuLA.— Crassulacee.—Sue-

CRATZGUS. 75 CRATZGUS.

culent greenhouse plants, natives of | The fruit varies also in size from
the Cape of Good Hope, with heads | that of C. spathulata, which is not
of red or white flowers. They should | larger than a grain of mustard-seed,

be grown in sandy loam, and lime or | to that of C. mexicana, which is
brick rubbish, and the pots should be | nearly as large as a Golden Pippin.

well drained. Like all the Cape} | The fruit of C. Azarélus, C. Aronia,

plants, all the kinds of Crassula | and C. tanacetifolia, all large and
should have alternate seasons of | yellow, and that of C. odoratissima,

stimulus andrepose. When they are | of a bright coral colour, are all very
growing, and about to flower, they | | good to eat; and many persons do
should be well watered, at least once ‘not dislike the haws of the common
every day, though the water should | Hawthorn. There are nearly a hun-
never be sufiered to stand in the|dred different kinds of Crategus,
saucer ; and when the flowers begin | including the hybrids and varieties ;
to fade, the supply of water should be | and of these thirty-one are varieties
gradually lessened, till, at last, very | of the common Hawthorn. The
little is given, and that not oftener | handsomest species for their flowers
than once a week. The plants are | are the red-blossomed and double-
propagated by cuttings, which should | flowered Hawthorns ; the handsomest

be laid on a shelf two or three days
to dry before planting, or they will
rot. When plants of Crassula are
not well drained, or if stagnant water
is retained round the roots, by letting
water stand in the saucer, the stems
are very apt to damp off. C. coccinea
and some other species wereseparated
from the others by Mr. Haworth, and
formed into the genus Kalosanthes ;
but this name does not appear to
have been adopted by many persons,
and the plants are still generally
called Crdssula, both in nurseries |
and private collections.

Cratz'cus. — Rosdcee. — The

» common Hawthorn, C. Oxyacdntha,

——$——

——————————————————EE

is so well known for its fragrant and
beautiful flowers, that most persons
will be anxious to know the other
species of the same genus ;
fact, several of the North American
thorns are the most ornamental low
trees we have in our gardens and
shrubberies. The species are all
hardy, and they all flower and fruit
freely, and are equally ornamental in
both states.

and, in |

| for their leaves are the different kinds
of Cockspur-thorn (C. Cris gdlli),
C. punctata, C. pyrifolia, C. pru-
nif olia (the leaves of which die off
of a deep red), and C. Célsii: and
the most curious for their fruit are
C. Douglusii, C. mexicana, and
C. Orientalis. The earliest flower-
ing in spring are C. purptirea and
C. nigra, the latter of which is said
to attract nightingales; and the
Glastonbury-thorn, a variety of the
common Hawthorn, often flowers at
Christmas. C. Oxyacdnthapéndula,
| and C. O. regine, Queen Mary’s
thorn, have both pendulus branches ;

and C. O. stricta, and C. tenaceti-
| folia, grow stiff and upright, like a
Lombardy poplar. C. tanacetifolia
and C. odoratissima have bluish
green leaves, which look as though
they had been slightly powdered ;
and C. Cris galli spléndens, and
several other kinds, have their leaves
of a shining dark blackish green.
C. Pyracdntha is an evergreeen, and
has a very good effect, when trained

Almost all the flowers | against a wall, from its shining leaves,

are white ; but the fruit varies in | its bunches of pure white flowers, and
colour, some being scarlet, some yel- | its brilliant scarlet fruit, which are so

low, some purple, and some green.

| abundant in winter as to induce the

i

CRESS-ROCKET.

French to call the plant Buisson

ardent, or the Burning Bush.

All the species of Crategus will
grow well in any soil that is naturally
dry ; but if planted in marshy ground,
they will be stunted in their growth,
and their leaves and fruit will become
spotted and unhealthy. The common
Hawthorn is propagated by seeds,
which often lie two years in the
ground before they germinate, if not
prepared before sowing by being
suffered to lie for several months in
what is called a rot-heap ; and which
is often turned over during that time,
to prevent the seeds from having
their vital powers destroyed by the
heat generated by fermentation. The
finer kinds of thorns are generally
grafted or budded on seedlings of the
common Hawthorn.

CRAWFURDIA. — Gentianiw. —A
very elegant climbing annual with
blue fiowers. It is a native of
Nepaul, and requires a greenhouse
in this country.

CREEPING CE'REUS.—Céreus fla-
gelliformis.—A succulent plant with
long, round, pendent stems, beautiful
pink flowers, and dark, purple,eatable
fruit. For the culture, &c., see
CE‘REUS.

Cre’Pis.—Compésite. —Anuual,
biennial, and perennial plants, natives
of Europe, of easy culture in any
common soil. The two kinds most
common in gardens are, however,
now removed to other genera: C.
barbata, the yellow Hawkweed, being
now made Télpis barbata, and Cre-
pis rubra, the red Hawkweed, being
now called Borkaisia rubra. The
first kind only requires sowing in the
open ground with the other annuals
in March or April, and may be trans-
planted if necessary ; the second is
also quite hardy, but it should be
sown where it is to remain, as it
does not well bear transplanting.

Cress-RocKET.—See VE’LLA.

76

i ————————

CROCUS.

Crinum. — Amaryllidacee, —
Stove bulbous, showy, lily-likeplants,
with very long leaves and large white
flowers, which in some species are
fragrant. Theplantsshould be grown
in rich loam, mixed with a little peat
and sand, and allowed plenty of pot-
room. They areincreased bysuckers,
which are produced very sparingly.
Several of the plants which are called
by some botanists Crinum, are called
by others Pancratium or Amaryllis.
| Cro‘cus.—IJriddcee.—There are
nearly a hundred named kinds of
Crocus, including hybrids and va-
rieties; but there are only about
thirty distinct species. All the kinds
have bulb-tubers or corms, and they
should not be taken out of the
ground oftener than once in three
years, being replanted as soon as
possible. The commonest kinds are
C. vérnus, of which there are many
varieties, all, however, havinginthem
some shade of lilac mixed with white ;
C. versicdlor, to which division
belong the beautifully - feathered
kinds of purple; C. bifldrus, the
Scotch Crocus, striped white and
purple, and generally the first to
flower in spring; C. susidnus, the
Cloth of Gold, striped orange and
very dark purple; C. sulphureus,
very pale yellow, or cream-coloured ;
and C. luteus, the common yellow.
Besides these, there is C. sativus, the
autumn-flowering Crocus, or saffron,
which is cultivated, on a large scale,
insome parts of England, particularly
near Saffron Walden, in Essex, for
the stigmas of its flowers, which,
when dried, become saffron, and are
used in dyeing. There are also large
plantations of saffron in France; but
in that country the bulb is frequently
attacked by afungus which the French
call mort de safran, which makes it
wither upandperish. All the kinds
of spring Crocuses should be grown
in light sandy loam well drained, and

CROTON.

they may be planted either in rows or
beds ; or they may be made to form
a kind of arabesque pattern in the
borders.

In whatever way the Crocus may
be planted, the leaves should never
be cut off till they begin to wither, as
without their assistance the plant
cannot accumulate matter to form its
new corm for the ensuing season.
The new corm always forms above
the old one ; so that in four or five
years they will have almost pushed
themselves out of the ground; and
from this habit of growth, Crocuses
are generally planted three or four
inches deep. Crocuses, when in
flower, are frequently destroyed by
sparrows, which peck at them, and
the corms are often eaten by mice.
They ripen abundance of seed, but
the seedlings do not fiower till the
third or fourth year.

Crocks or PotsHeRDs.—Broken
pieces of flower-pots, bricks, or tiles,
used for draining flower pots contain-
ing plants.

CRossBREDS differ from hybrids in
being produced by plants more nearly
allied to each other ; as two varieties
of one species, two nearly allied,
species, &c. For the mode of ob-
taining these crosses, see GERA‘NIUM
and HyBrip.

CrROTALA‘RIA. — Legumindsee. —
Herbaceous plants, natives of the
East and West Indies, and a few
shrubs, natives of the Cape, with
showy pea-flowers, generally either
purple or yellow. There are a few
annual species, the hardy ones of
which are natives of North America,
but the species most commonly culti-
vated are greenhouse shrubs. They
should be grown in sandy loam and
peat, well drained; and they are
propagated by cuttings of the young
wood and by seeds.

Cro'ron. --Euphoribacec. --Mostly

77

en
DS

1
’

CRUCIANELLA.

Indiesand South America. C. picta
(Codic'wm pictum Juss.) Is a very
remarkable and ornamental plant,
from the brilliant colour of its leaves
which are variegated with blotches
of scarlet, yellow, and dark purple.
This species should be grown in lime-
rubbish and peat, or in sand only,
and the pots must be well drained, or
the leaves will soon become green,
and lose their beauty. The Croton
oil is made from an annual species,
C. Tiglium, a native of the East
Indies. The shrubby kinds are pro-
pagated by cuttings, which should not
havetheir leaves shortened, and which
must be struck in a moist heat.

Crowroort.—See Ranv’Nevuus.

Cro’wea. — Rutdcee. —A very
pretty New Holland shrub, which
will flower nearly all the year. It
should be grown in a compost of
vegetable mould, sand, and peat, and
the pots must be well drained ; as,
though it requires frequent watering,
no plant suffers more from the effects
of water being allowed to remain in
a stagnant state about its roots.
Whenever the leaves turn yellow,
and the flowers drop off without
expanding, the cultivator may feel
assured that there is some fault in
the drainage, and the plant should be
repotted. It is increased by cuttings.

Crown IMPERIAL.—A very showy
bulbous rooted plant, formerly in-
cluded in the genus Fritillaria ; but
it has lately been placed in another
genus. It is quite hardy, and when
the bulb is once planted in any com-
mon garden soil, the plant needs no
other culture.

CRUCIANE’LLA. — Rubiacee or
Galiacece.—The very beautiful little
plant called C. stylésa, has brought
this somewhat neglected genus again
into notice; though Dr. Lindley
doubts its belonging to the genus at
all. As, however, it is generally so

stove-shrubs, natives of the East called in gardens and nurseries,

fd

CUSCUTA. ‘

8 CUTTINGS.

nothing further will be said here on
the subject. Itisa hardy perennial,a
native of mountains in Persia, grow-
ing about a foot high in any good
garden soil, and well adapted for beds
in a geometric flower-garden, from its
profusion of bright pink flowers, which
it continues producing from June to
September. It is well adapted for
rock-work, and it is increased by
dividing the roots.

CrypTocaMous PLants.—Ferns,
Mosses, Lichens, and other plants,
which do not produce any visible
flowers.

CRYPTOME'RIA. —Cupréssiiece. —
The Japan Cedar (Cryptoméria
japonica) is one of the handsomest of
its tribe that has ever been introduced
into British gardens. Seeds weresent
home from China by Mr. Fortune in
1844, and so many young plants were
raised from them, that the tree is
rapidly becoming common. In its
native country it is said to form a
tree 60 or 100feethigh. Itis quite
hardy near London; but in cold, ex-
posed situations it frequently becomes
stunted. If grown in too dry a soil,
it is apt to have its lower branches
become bare.

Cu'pHEa. — Lythrdcee. — South
American plants, with very curious
flowers, some of which are half-hardy
annuals, some green-house plants, and
some stove-shrubs.—They require a
moistrich soil, and ashaded situation.
C. strigillisa, C. maniata, and C.
platycéntva, particularly the latter,
are ornamental green-house plants
introduced about 1846. They areall
half-hardy, and will flower profusely
in the open ground if planted out
in spring.

Cu’scuta.—Convolvulicee.—The
Dodder.—Parasitical plants which
are sometimes grown in greenhouses
as objects of curiosity. —W hen this is
the case, the seeds should be sown
in a pot, in which is growing a com-

mon horse-shoe geranium (Pelargo-
nium Zonale). As soon as the seed
of the Cruscuta begins to germinate,
it sends out a delicate thread-like
stem, which is leafless, and which
soon coils itself round the stem and
branches of the poor geranium, ad-
hering to them by a number of wart-
like protuberances, or suckers, which
appear at intervals along its surface.
The root of the parasite now withers,
but the plant itself continues to thrive,
as it feeds, vampire-like, on the sap
of the poor geranium ; and it grows
vigorously, producing abundance of
leaves and flowers, while the gera-
nium appears to sicken, its leaves
turn yellow and drop off, and it
finally wastesaway.. The geranium
should be tall and much branched ;
and when this is the case, the Cus-
cuta forms a very ornamental object,
hanging down in graceful festoons,
and producing abundance of its glossy
pale blush-coloured flowers, which
are very fragrant. Sometimes this
parasite is propagated by shoots,
which should be wrapped in wet
moss, and tied on the’plant to which
they are to adhere. ‘Two species of
Cuscuta are natives of Britain, and
are very troublesome in oat-fields ;
but the other kinds are natives of
the south of Europe and the tropics.
The handsomest species, C. verrucosa,
is from Nepai.
CusTaRD APPLE.—See Ano'NA.

Curtincs.—It may be receivedas |

a general principle that all plants
which produce shoots may be propa-
gated by cuttings; though some
plants are much more difficult to

propagate in thismanner than others. |

Generally speaking, all the soft-
wooded succulent plants, which have
abundance of sap, such as Pelargo-
niums (Geraniums), Fuchsias, Petu-
nias and Verbenas,sirike rootreadily;
while dry, hard-wooded plants, such

_as Heaths, and the different kinds of

et

a

Epacris, are very difficult to strike.

’ CUTTINGS. 7

The usual directions for striking cut-
tings are, to put them in pure sand,
and to cover them with a bell-glass,
and this may be done as a precau-
tionary method with all cuttings,
though it is only essential with those
that are difficult to strike. Some
cuttings are directed to be made of
the old wood, and some of the young
tender shoots of the current year:
in general, however, the safest plan
is, to take off the shoot just below
where the young wood is united to
that of the previous season, so that |
a small portion of the old wood
may remain attached to the cutting. |
The shoot should be cut off with what

gardeners call a clean cut (as, if it be
bruised, or left jagged, or uneven, it
most probably will not grow) ; and it
should be planted in sandy soil, to
ensure drainage, as the cutting will
rot, or, as gardeners term it, damp
off, if water in a stagnant state be
suffered to remain round it. When
the cutting is put into the ground,
the earth should be made quite firm
to its lower end ; as, if any space be
left below it, the roots will wither as
soon as they shoot forth. Cuttings |
are considered most likely to succeed

when taken from the horizontal

branches of the plant nearest the

ground ; and as least likely to strike

root, when taken from the upright

shoots at the summit of the plant ;

though thisrule has many exceptions.

A shoot of the soft-wooded kinds,

which strike easily, may be divided

into several cuttings, all of which

will grow ; but with all the hard-

wooded kinds, only one cutting must

be taken from the tip of each shoot.

Shoots which are of the average

strength are preferable to those

that are either very strong or very

weak ; and those are best that have

only leaf-buds, and no flower-buds

on them.

9 CUTTINGS.

Some cuttings which are difficult
to strike are directed to have bottom
heat. This means, that the pots in
which they are planted are to be
plunged into a hotbed, that the sti-
mulus afforded by the heat may
induce the cuttings to throw out
roots. Care must, however, be taken
that the hotbed is not too hot, as in
that case it sometimes burns the
tender roots of the cuttings.

The following are the principal
kinds of plants propagated by cut-
tings, divided into classes, each of

FIG. 3.—CUTTING OF ACACTA ALATA,

which requires a different treatment.
—Soft-wooded greenhouse plants,
such as Geraniums, Fuchsias, Brug-
mansias, Petunias, Verbenas, Tro-
peolums, Maurandyas, &c. These
may have cuttings taken off in spring,
or at almost any period during
summer, and planted in sandy soil,
with or without a glass over them,
and with or without bottom heat.
They may be considered as the
easiest of all cuttings to strike, the
principal art consisting in cutting

| the shoot across, through, or imme-

CUTTINGS. 80 CUTTINGS.

diately under the jomnt, with aclean | plants have made their growth, as
cut, preserving a few of the leaves | most Australian shrubs do, in Feb-

on, and making the lower end of the |

cutting quite firm in the sandy soil
in which it is planted. In the
summer time, such cuttings may be |
planted in the free soil ; and at other |
seasons, in order to admit of pro- |
tection, in pots. In whichever mode
they are planted, they must be kept |
in the shade, and in an uniform state
in regard to moisture, till they have
begun togrow. Their growing isan
indication of their having taken root,
when they should be taken up, and
each planted in a separate pot.

Hard-wooded greenhouse plants,
suchas Camellias, Myrtles, evergreen
Acacias, and most Cape and Austra-
lian shrubs with comparatively broad

FIG. 4.—CUTTING OF A CAMELLIA.

leaves, are a degree or two more
difficult to strike than Geraniums
and Fuchsias. The points of the |
shoots, after the spring growth has
been completed, and before the young
wood is thoroughly ripened, should
be used ; and the soil should contain
a large proportion of sand, and be |
thoroughly drained. If cuttings of
this kind are put in during autumn,

ruary or March, and the cuttings

_are taken off and planted in these

months, they will root that same
season, and be fit to transplant into
small pots in the course of the
summer. To accomplish this object,
it is common with cultivators to
force forward the plants from which
cuttings are to be taken, by remo-

8S SS SS eee

ving them from the greenhouse to |
the hothouse in January ; and after |

they have made their shoots, to
harden these before making the
cuttings, by removing the plants
back again to the greenhouse. Most
cuttings of this kind require to be
covered with a hand-glass, and some
with a bell-glass.

Heath-like plants, such as Erica,
E’pacris, Diésma, are among the
most difficult to propagate by cut-
tings. The points of the shoots only

FIG. 5.—CUTTING OF A HEATH.

are to be taken ; and these, in some
cases, should be not more than one
inch in length. These should be
taken off early in spring, when the
plants have nearly ceased growing ;
and they should be cut clean across
at a joint, and the leaves clipped,
or cut off, for about half-an-inch of
their length. The cuttings, thus
prepared, are planted in pure white
sand, well drained, with a little
peat-soil, as a substratum; and
' they are covered with a bell- -glass,

they require to be kept through the | and placed in a frame near the
winter under glass, and they will not | glass, and shaded. The best time
produce roots till spring ; butif the for putting in Heath cuttings is in

Ce ee a et a

& + a le ak

} | CUTTINGS. 81 CUTTINGS.

December ; when plants, that have well) in the right, with which a |

|
}

about half finished their growth, | hole is made in the sand to about )

should be selected. The cuttings

long; and even shorter cuttings | the hole, and the pricker is again
sometimes strike better. The leaves | put into the sand, to close the sand

the depth of the shank of the cut- |
ought not to be more than an inch | ting ; the cutting is then placed in |

/

must then be clipped off witha small | round it; as great care must be |
and very sharp-pointed pair of | taken that no vacuity is left between |

scissors, to about half the length of | the sand and the cutting anywhere.
the cutting, or less; as the shorter | AS soon as the pots are filled with
cuttings, a bell-glass should be put
| over them, and the pots should be
placed on a greenhouse shelf, where

sixty degrees. They will require
little attention afterwards: except-
ting now and then wher the sun is
out, or when snow has fallen, to
shade them from excessive light,

eee ee to rot; for one rotten cutting, if not

taken away immediately, will infect
the shank of the cutting, the quicker | the whole pot, and they will all
it strikes, and there is less chance of | damp off in a very little time. Ifa
its rotting. Great care is necessary | potful of each sort should be more

the temperature is not lower than |

and to remove such cuttingsas begin |

in clipping off these leaves, and | than isrequired, care must be taken ©

cutting the cutting across, so as not | to sort the euttings out in such a way
in the slightest degree to lacerate | that the smooth kinds may be placed
the bark, for the smallest wound
or laceration will prove fatal to the
cutting, by allowing the moisture to
enter it, and thus damp itoff. This, | sary, as the hairy kinds generally
after all, is peruaps one of the| collect more moisture than the
principal reasons why so few, even| smooth sorts; besides the great

viscid ones, &c., by themselves.

of gardeners, strike Heath-cuttings | difference of time required to strike,

well; for the cuttings being very| them, some of the smooth or gla-
small and succulent, the operators| brous sorts striking in a month,
are seldom sufiiciently careful in| while some of the viscid ones require
clipping off the leaves with scissors, | three or four months. When the
but cut them off with a knife, resting | cuttings are made in December, the
the cutting on the thumb-nail ;| greater part of them will be struck
though it is evident, that by this| by February or March, when they
process they cannot make a very|should be carefully potted into
clean cut ; and, moreover, that they | thumb-pots, about half-full of very
must bruise the bark, or tear down | fine poisherds, and the other half

the petiole of every leaf they cut off. | filled up with soil composed of equal —

Having prepared the cutting pro-| parts of finely-sifted peat and silver
perly, it must be gently taken in|sand. The plants will now only
the left hand, with a pricker (a/ require to be kept under the hand-
knitting-needle answers exceedingly | glass for a few days, to let them

G

together, and the hairy ones, the —

This separation is the more neces- ©

}
}
|
i
|
|
|
}
/
/
}

CUTTINGS. 82 CUTTINGS.

root again; and then they must The bouture par étranglement is
remain » for about a fortnight or three formed by tying a ligature round
weeks on the greenhouse ‘shelf, after the branch from which the cutting
which they may be with safety
removed to the cold frame.

Cuttings of stove- plants generally | |
require to be planted in the same
kind of soil as the parent plant, and
plunged in a gentle bottom heat,
| from a hotbed of tan or stable
manure, under a bell-glass ; though
| Some of the more slender-growing
| kinds require silver sand, without

bottom heat. As cuttings of many

stove-plants are very large, care

must be taken never to allow them
| to flag or droop, and also to preserve
| as many of their leaves as possible ;
| indeed, this rule may be applied to

almost all cuttings.

Succulent plants, such as Cactuses,

Euphorbias, Mesembryanthemums,

Crassulas, and the like, require to be | is to be made, just below one of the

kept out of the ground for a few| buds. This will cause a swelling

days to dry, after they have been | (a, in jig. 8) to form just below the
| cut off ; and then to be planted in a | ligature, and from this swelling
|
:
|
|

FIG. 7. FIG. 8.

mixture of peat, sand, and brick | roots are soon protruded.
rubbish, well drained. The pots| Many plants, the shoots of which
may afterwards be set on the dry | will not root readily, are easily in-
shelf of a warm greenhouse, and only | creased by cuttings of the roots;
occasionally and slightly watered; | such as some of the Acacias, Roses,
many of them, indeed, will require; &c. Roots not less than a quarter |
no water till they have struck. of an inch in diameter should be |
The French have several ways of| chosen, and planted in the same
making cuttings which are not yet | kind of soil in which they have pre- |
common in British gardens; but| viously been growing, with their |
some of which have been introduced | tops just above the surface of the
in a few places with very great suc- | soil, and plunged in a gentle bottom |
heat, when they will, in a few weeks,

| cess. The principal of these are
called the heeled cutting (boutwre &|form a bud and send up a shoot,
talon), and the ringed cutting (bow-| and thus become well-established |
ture par étranglement). The first | plants in a shorter time than by |
of these merely consists of taking | almost any other method. Many |
out a small portion of the branch on | hardy plants are raised from cut-

which the sprig used in making the | tings of the roots, and these only

| eutting grew, as shown in jig. 7 ee to be put into light rich
| This forms a kind of heel, and the} soil near a wall, or in any other
cuttings thus made are said to take) sheltered situation, and to be kept

root much more readily than those rather moist, and shaded occasio-
| made in the ordinary manner. nally.

CUTTINGS.

83

CYCLAMEN,

Cuttings of leaves have been both parts. Hedid so, plunging the

frequently made by the French nur-
serymen ; and a very curious experi-
Tih « NE mr
Jiiie'l \ JRuH fi
by VA,

) ti
oe Vi
re “2 y tI

t \ Ui v

/

|

FIG. 9.—LOWER HALF OF THE LEAF.

ment was tried in 1839 by M.
Neumann of the Jardin des Plantes.

_ Finding that Theophrdsta longifolia

FIG. 10.—UPPER HALF OF THE LEAF.

(Clavija ornate Don) would grow

plants in the pit of a hothouse, and

| succeeded in striking both; but he |

found that though the lower half of |
the leaf made roots in three months |
(see jig 9), the upper half (jig. 10)

was nearly double that time before
it was quiteestablished. The dotted

lines in jig. 10 show where portions |

/ of the leaf were cut off. In June,
1840, the two half leaves had become
beautiful and healthy plants, which
it was impossible to distinguish
from those struck in the usual
manner. Half leaves of various
plants have also been rooted in
charcoal, in Germany.

Cy‘anus.—The Corn Bluebotile.
See CENTAURE'A.

Cr'cas. —Cycadee.—A kind of
herbaceous Palm, requiring the heat
of a stove, and remarkable for its
curious root-like stem, and enormous
fern-like leaves. It very rarely pro-
duces seed in England, and when it
does, the seeds are placed on the
margin of the leaves. The male
flowers are in cones. It should be
grown in a strong rich loam.

Cy’cLaMEN. — Primulacee. —
Handsome and curious tuberous-
rooted herbaceous plants. C. ewro-
pe'um is a native of Switzerland, and

|is very fragrant; C. cOwm and C.

| vérnum are natives of the South of

| Europe; and all these kinds are

_ hardy in British gardens, and require
no other care than to be grown in

light rich soil. C. pérsicum is a

| greenhouse species, the tubers of

_which should be planted in well-
drained pots, early in September, and

kept in the open air till they have

thrown out leaves, when they should
| be removed to the greenhouse. They
require plenty of air, and but very
little heat ; and during the months

readily from a cutting formed of a of November and December, they

leaf, he conceived the idea of cutting
a leaf in two, and trying to strike

should have very little water ; though,
| when the flowers begin to form, they

a3

se a ce IE
i

CYDONIA.

84

CYRTOCHILUM.

should beabundantly supplied. When

they have ceased flowering, the supply
of water should be diminished ; and
about June the tubers should be

taken out of the ground and kept |

dry till the season for planting the
following autumn.
for them is equal parts of loam and

rotten manure, or leaf-mould, with a |

little peat and sand, or heath-mould.
All the kinds are propagated by seed,
which they ripen in abundance; and
they all require an open airysituation.

CycLobo’THRA.—Liliacece.—Bul-
bous-rooted plants, natives of Cali-
fornia, with nodding flowers, like
those of the Fritillarias. They are
nearly hardy, and only require to
be kept dry during winter, or to
be taken up in autumn and re-
planted in spring. They flower at
Midsummer.

Cycno'cHEs.— Orchiddcew.—An
orchideous plant, commonly called
Swanwort, from the graceful curve
of the column of the flower, which
resembles the neck of a swan. It
requires a very damp atmosphere,
and the greatest heat ever applied to
a damp stove. For the culture, see
OrcHIpEous EpIpHyTes,

Cyrpo'n1a.— Rosacee.—The bota-
nic name of the Quince tree; and
now also applied to that beautiful
and well-known shrub with bright
scarlet flowers formerly called
Pyrus japonica. Cydinia japonica,
though a native of Japan, is quite
hardy, and will growin any soil and
situation if not too much exposed.
It bears pruning without injury,
and makes agoodhedge. Itretains
its leaves nearly allthe winter; and
in mild seasons, and sheltered situa-
tions, it is almost always in flower.
There are three or four varieties ;

| some with half double flowers, and

some the flowers of which are of a
pale bluish colour.

Cr'yips,—The Gall Fly.—A kind |

of gnat, which occasions the galls |

on oaks, &c. The Bedeguar, a
disease which affects rose-trees, is
occasioned by Cynips rose, a little
insect, not more than the twelfth of

/an inch long, having the legs and
The best soil |

body red, tipped with black. This
little creature wounds the twig of
the rose-tree, and deposits its eggs
under the bark. The wound swells,
and forms an excresence, often two
inches in diameter, and covered with
green or pink hairs, which are
curiously branched at their extremi-
ties like little masses of coral. The
excrescence is so ornamental that it
seems almost a pity to destroy it,
and yet, when opened, it will be
found to contain a great number of
the grubs or pupze of the fly.

CyNnoGLo’ssum. — Boraginee. —
Hound’s-tongue.—Pretty little bien-
nial and annual plants ; natives of
Europe, and requiring only the
common culture of plants of a similar
nature. Venus’s Navel-wort was
formerly considered to belong to
this genus, but it is now removed
to OMPHALO'DES.

Cypripe'piIuM. — Orchidaceew. —
The Ladies’ Slipper.—Terrestrial or-
chideous plants, mostly natives of
North America. They should be
grown in peat-soil in a shady border,
and covered with a hand-glass, or in
some other manner, so as to keep
them dry during winter. They are
very difficult to propagate in this
country, and the plants bought
in the seed shops and nurseries
have generally been imported from
America,

CrrrLia. — Ericacee. — Green-
house shrubs with very small white
flowers. For an account of the

beautiful plant sometimes called

Cyrilla pulchélla, see TREVIRA'‘NA,
or ACHIME'NES.
CyrtocurLum. — Orchiddcee. —
Splendid Mexican Epiphytes ; which
We.

en ee

DABCGCIA. 85 DAHLTA.

are generally grown on part of the | or Si. Dabeoc’s-heath. It is quite
branch of a tree, or in the husk of a | hardy, but requires a moist, peaty
cocoa-nut, hung up from the rafters | soil. The species has purple flowers;
of a hothouse, or damp stove. When | but there is a beautiful variety, the
planted, the roots should be wrapped | flowers of which are white.

up in wet moss, and tied on the! Darropi~.—See Narcr’ssvs.

branch, or placed in the husk; and} Da’HLIA.— Compésite.—The im- ©

the plants should be kept in adamp | portance that has within the last few
atmosphere, and frequently watered. | years attached to this genus would

_ Sometimes these Epiphytes aregrown render it easy to fill a volume with
_ in pots, in which case the soilshould | descriptions of its various species and

be peat mixed with lime-rubbish. | varieties, and the details of their
Cy’tisus.— Legumindse.—There | culture. Its history is also some-
are above fifty kinds of Cytisus ; but | what curious; as, strange to say,
the kinds best known are the Labur- | though it has become so great a
nums, the common Broom (C. sco- | favourite, and is so universally cul-
parius), and the Portugal Broom, | tivated, the history of itsintroduction
(C. albus). Thecommon Laburnum |is very obscure. It is generally
(C. Labéirnum) is a well-known | said to have been introduced by
tree, which, if it were less common, | Lady Holland in 1804; but the
would be thought extremely beau- | fact is, it had been introduced
tiful. There are only three or four | many years before that period, and
distinct varieties, but the plant | was only brought from Madrid, in
varies very much in the size of its | 1804, by Lady Holland, who appar-
flowers, in their colour, and the| ently did not know that it was
length of the racemes in which they | already in the country. The first
are disposed, and in their fragrance. | kind of Dahlia known to Europeans
The Scotch Laburnum (C. alpinus) | (D. supérflua Cav., D. variabilis
is much more beautiful than the | Dec., Georgina pinndta W.) was
common kind ; both the flowers and | discovered in Mexico by Baron Hum-
leaves are larger, and the flowers | boldt in 1789, and sent by him to
are more frequently fragrant. They | Professor Cavanilles, of the Boia-
are also produced much later in the | nical Garden, Madrid, who gave the
season, not coming into flower till | genus the name of Dahlia, in honour
the others are quite over. This is| of the Swedish Professor Dahl.
the plant which the Italians call Cavanilles sent a plant of it the
May, as we do the Hawthorn. The} same year to the Marchioness of
French call both species False | Bute, who was very fond of flowers,
Ebony, from the blackness of the | and who kept it in the greenhouse.
wood; which, however, is much | From this species nearly all the
darker in C. Labéirnum than in C. | varieties known in the gardens have
alpinus. Both kinds will grow im | been raised ; as it seeds freely, and
any soil and situation, but they do | varies very much when raised from
best in a deep sandy loam, and a seed. In 1802, D. frustrdnea Ait.
sheltered situation. (D. coccinea) was introduced from
France, in which country it had

been raised from Mexican seeds,

ABCE'CIA. — Fricacee. — The | A few varieties have been raised from
late Professor Don’s name for | thiskind, but they are much smaller
Andromeda Dabw@eia L., Irishworts, | than the others. It is rather re-

|

DAHLIA.

markable, that the two species do
not hybridise together; and that
D, supérflua or varidbilis, should
produce flowers of colour so different
as crimson, purple, white, yellow, |
orange, and scarlet, without hybri-
disation. Among all the colours,
however, displayed by these varieties, |
no flowers have yet appeared of blue, |
and comparatively few of a pure
white. These two species, and their
varieties, were the only Dahlias
known in English gardens for many
years ; as, though a few kinds were
introduced from time to time from
France and Spain, yet as they did
not hybridise with the others, and
were rather more tender, they were
not generally cultivated, and appear
to have been soon lost. Most of these
haye, however, been re-introduced
from Mexico, with several new
species, within the last few years ;
and there are now ten or twelve
distinct species, besides innumerable |
varieties of D. variabilis, to be
procured in England. The most
remarkable of the new species is the
tree Dahlia, D. excélsa, which is said
to grow in Mexico thirty feet high, |
with a trunk thick in proportion, |
The name of Georgina was applied to |
the Dahlia by Willdenow ; because
the word Dahlia was thought to bear |
too close a resemblance to the word |
Dalea, which had been previously |
given by Thunberg to a small legu-
minous genus. As, however, the
words are both spelt and pronounced |
differently, Professor De Candolle has
recommended that the name Dahlia |
shall be retained, and most botanists |
of the present day have followed
his recommendation. The name |

}

86

DAHLIA,

seeds, or division of the root. The
seeds are chiefly used for raising new
sorts ; and they should be treated
like tender annuals, being sown on
a slight hot-bed in February or
March, and planted out in May.
The plants rarely flower the first
year, but the tubers will form in the

course of the summer, and may be |
taken up in autumn with those of |

the old plants. When the plants
are propagated by division of the
root, care must be taken that each
piece has a bud attached to it.

These buds, or eyes, as the gardeners |

call them, are not scattered all over

the tubers, like those of the potato, |
but collected in a ring round the |

collar of theroot. These eyes, when
the tubers are in a dry state, are
sometimes scarcely perceptible ; and
to discover them, nurserymen often
plant their Dahlia-tubers in a hot-
bed, ‘‘to start the eyes,” as they

call it; that is, to force the latent —
buds sufficiently forward to show ©

where they are situated, before they
divide the tubers for the purpose of
forming new plants. Sometimes the
eyes do not form a ring round the

collar or crown of the root, but a —

considerable portion of it is without

any buds. These parts, when divided |
from the rest, are called blind —
tubers ; and, though, if put intothe ©

ground, they will live for several
years, sending out abundance of

fibrous roots every year, no gardener |

has yet been able to induce a blind
tuber to form an eye, or to send up
a shoot. This peculiarity should be
kept in mind by all novices in flori-

culture, as dishonest persons fre- |

quently selllargeand healthy-looking

Georgina was given in honour of tubers, which are, however, worth-
Georgi, a German botanist, who resi- less, from their being without eyes.
ded for several years at St. Peters- To remedy this evil, an expedient
burg. has been devised of grafting the

The Dahlia is a tuberous-rooted | tubersof Dahlias in the same manner

plant, which is propagated either by | as is prociasedgugeh the tubers of

DAHLIA. 87 DAHLIA.

the Peony in France (see GRAFTING); should be taken to shade them from
but it requires great skill in the the direct rays of the sur, till they
gardener to do this successfully, as | have thrown out roots, as the leaves
the tuber is very apt to rot at the | are easily withered ; and when this
point of junction between it and the | is the case, they cannot be recovered,

graft. One mode of performing the

operation is to take a growing shoot |
of a choice Dahlia, and to cut it so |
as to form the lower extremity into |
a wedge shape (as shown at a in fig.

1i).

A barren tuber must then be |

| FIG. 12.—PEG-GRAFTING THE DAHLIA.

| and the cuttings will perish for want
| of a due circulation of the sap. The

FIG. 11.—CLEFT-GRAFTING THE DAHLIA.

prepared (as shown at 6), and the
shoot inserted. Another method is
to make one or two holes in the neck
of a barren tuber, and inserting a
bud (see fig. 12), taking care to make
the two surfaces fit exactly, and |
covering the edges with grafting-
wax. The tuber is then planted,
and the pot is plunged into a hotbed |
till the leaves begin to shoot.
Dahlias are also propagated by
cuttings of the stem, taken from the
lower part of the plant; or young
shoots slipped off the tuber with part
of the woody fibre attached. The
cuttings should be struck in sand, or
very sandy loam, under a bell-glass,
and with bovtggasheat. Great care

roots will generally form in a fort- |

| night, or at most three weeks.

| The best soil for Dahliasisacom- |

post of equal parts of sand and loam,
with a little peat; which may be
enriched with part of an old hotbed,
or decayed leaves. Manure of any
kind should, however, be used very
sparingly, as too much will cause the

plant to produce strong coarse-grow-?

ing leaves and stems, instead of fine
flowers. Striped flowers are never

either bright or distinct in their |
Dahlias ©

colours in very rich soil.
will not grow well in the richest
clayey soil without sand ; and though

;

|
|

they will grow freely in sand without |
loam, the flowers will be poor and |

onlysemi-double. Thoughthey flower

so late in the year, Dahlias are killed ©
by the slightest frost ; and thus their |
beauty, great as it is, is generally |
rather short-lived. As soon as the |

leaves turn brown from frost, which

is generally in October, the stems »
should becut down; andin November |

the tubers should betakenup. Adry
day should be chosen if possible; and

' will do which is not too hot.

DAHLIA. 88 DAHLIA.
the tubers should be carefully taken | florists frequently try to remove it
up, and laid on boardsinan openshed, | artificially, after the flower has ex-

or some similar place, todry. While | panded. The size and colour of the

drying, they should be turned every | flowers are considered as of inferior |

consequence to the form by professed
florists; though, of course, Jarge
| flowers are generally preferred to

them should be swept away. They
should be dried in an open shed, if
possible, where they will be only
sheltered from the rain; for if dried |
suddenly by fire-heat or exposure to |
the sun, the tubers are apt to wither |

day, and the earth that falls from |

up ; and if dried too slowly, without
the admission of plenty of air, they
willrot. They generally do best kept
during the winter in a dry cellar in
sand or sawdust; but any dry place
In
spring the tubers are replanted,

| either in pots plunged in a slight

hot-bed, about the middle of February
or the beginning of March, or in the
open ground in MaycrJune; but the
dwarf early-flowering kinds may be
planted in the open air in April.
When the tall kinds are wanted to

_ flower early, they may be forced
| rapidly forward by being plunged

into stronger heat, and kept in the
hotbed till just ready to flower. If,

| however, the summer should prove
| hot and dry, the plants thus forced

are frequently attacked by a disease
called the curl, which is caused by
an insect called the green bug, that
perforates the young leaves, and occa-
sions them to wither and shrivel up.

FIG. 13.—DAILIA-RINGS.

All Dahlias are also frequently in- | small ones ; and the colours, what-
fested with earwigs, which pierce the | ever they may be, should be always
flower-buds, and prevent them from | clear and distinct, without any

expanding.

The beauty of the Dahlia is esti-
mated principally by the shape of the
flower, which should be perfectly cir-
cular, without any of the petals pro-

' jecting beyond the others; and if the
| disk in the centre be seen in a full-

blown flower, it is considered as a
great defect. As this imperfection
disqualifies even a fine Dahlia from
competing for a prize, dishonest

blotches, clouding, or muddiness.
There are several distinct classes, if
they may be so called, of the flowers ;
as, for example, the Globe Dahlias,
the dwarfs, the quilled, &c. As the
plants are very luxuriant in their
| stems and leaves, they require some
kind of confinement ; and they are
generally either tied to cast-iron
stakes painted green, or drawn
through what are called Dahlia-
‘

a en ea er ee a ES a eS EES A ES a A a ae

DAPHNE.

89

DAPHNE.

rings, which are generally made of | its flowers appearing before

cast-iron; but as these are rather
dear, they may he imitated by fixing
three slender stakes of wood, in a
triangular form, and forming rings of
split willows, which may be purchased
of the basket-makers, and tying them
to the stakes at regular distances ; or
the stakes may be pierced with holes,

and leadenwire or slender laths passed
through them.
may be pegged down so as to cover
a bed in a systematic flower-garden ;

| and thus treated, they have a most

_ bright red poisonous berries.

beautiful effect.

Datsy.—See Bu’ urs.

Da 'LEA.—Leguinindse.— Green-
house shrubs, with pinnate leaves,
and small pea-flowers, greatly resem-
bling those of the wild vetches, but
less beautiful. The genus would not
have been mentioned here, but on
accountof its having been the occasion

of the name of the Dahlia having been |

changed by Willdenow to Georgina.—
See Da’H3ra.

DampStove.—A namefrequently |
applied by gardeners to the bark |

stove ; but more properly belonging
to the Orchideous house, the atmos-
phere of which is kept constantly
surcharged with moisture.
Da’PHNE. — Thymelacee. — A

genus of beautiful low shrubs, nearly |
equally remarkable for their elegant |

and cften fragrant flowers and their
The

_ best known species of the genus is
| the common Mezereon (D. Mezé-

reunv), which is so general a favourite

' that it has pet names in almost every
_ language. The French call it genteel
| wood, and pretty wood; the Italians,
| the fair plant ; the Germans, silky

bark ; and even the grave Spaniards
term it the lady-laurel. In our own
language, Cowper, one of our sweetest
poets in all that relates to sylvan
scenery, thus beautifully describes

The dwarf Dahlias |

its
leaves :—

““Though leafless, well attired and
thick beset
With blushing wreaths investing
every spray.”

There are several varieties, one
| with white flowers and yellow berries,
and the others with red flowers of
various shades. All the kinds are
quite hardy, and will grow in any

common garden-soil, but they prefer
a rich loam, and a shady situation.
In the nurseries they are generally
_ propagated by seeds, which are often
_ two years before they come up, unless
'sownas soonastheyareripe. When
young plants are purchased, they
should always be transplanted in.
October, as the sap begins to be in
|motion about Christmas; and the
plants are almost sure to die (or at
least to become sickly) if taken up
after the sap has begun to move.
The poison of the berries and the
inner bark is acrid, and the best
remedy, if a child should unfor-
tunately eat the berries, is swallow-
ing oil, melted butter, or milk. The
_ Mezereon is a native of the North of
Europe, and it is sometimes found
| wild in England. The common and
twin-flowered Spurge Laurels (D.
Lauréola and D. péntica) are ever-
green bushy shrubs, with dark-green
glossy leaves, and greenish flowers,
which they produce abont Christmas.
The first is a native of Britain, the
latter of Asia Minor. They both
require the same culture as the
Mezereon, and the common Spurge
Laurel thrives under the drip of
trees, where few other plants will
live. The dwarf Daphnes are gene-
rally somewhat tender, with pink
fragrant flowers; and D. odora, the
Chinese Daphne, is a very fragrant
and beautiful greenhouse shrub. D.

it, alluding to the circumstance of | Fortwni, a new species, introduced in

DATURA,

1844, forms a dwarf shrub, nearly
allied to the Mezereon, and pro-
bably about as hardy as that well-
known plant. In its native country
it grows in the same situations as
the Macartney Rose and Wistaria
stnénsis. The plant is a native of

| China, where its bark, which is ex-

| Thorn-Apple, D. Stramdnium, now

tremely acrid and poisonous, ‘‘is

used by the natives to produce
blisters on the skin, particularly in |
cases of rheumatism.”
Datu'ra.—Solandcee.— Strong-
growing, large-leaved plants, gene-
rally with showy flowers. Most of
the kinds are annuals; the best |
known of which are the common

naturalised in England ; D. Meétel,
a dwarf species, common in gardens;
D. ceratocatlon,a magnificent plant ;
and D. Tdatula, the purple-flowered
Thorn-Apple. They should be all
raised on a hotbed, and planted out
in May. The splendid half-shrubby
plant, with large, white, tube-shaped
fragrant flowers, formerly called
Datura arborea, is now called Brug-
mansia suaveolens, This splendid
plant may be grown in a large tub
in the greenhouse, in heath-mould,
during the winter ; and in May, a
pit may be prepared for it in the open
air, about a foot wider in diameter
thanitstub. This pit should be par-
tially filled with very rotten manure
and decayed leaves; and the Datura,
being turned out of its tub, and its
decayed roots pared off, may be put
into the rich compost prepared for
it, when it will grow most vigorously.
A plant treated in this manner, in |
1835, expanded 1050 flowers from |
the middle of May to the middle of
September. About the last week in
that month the plant was taken up
out of the ground in whichit had been |
growing, its roots and its branches
were cut in, and it was again placed
ina tub, to be kept in the greenhouse |

90

DEADLY NIGHTSHADE.

till the following spring. It must be
observed, that the pit prepared for
the Datura must be in soil which is
either naturally dry, from being of
a gravelly or sandy nature, or which
has been well drained ; or that the
bottom of the pit be filled with broken
bricks, in order that the plant may be
well and frequently watered while it
is growing without danger of the roots
rotting from too much moisture.
Probably, if its roots and collar were
well protected, it might be left in
the open air without injury during
winter.

Davie'sta.— Leguminose.—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with orange-yellow
coloured pea-flowers ; which should
be grown in a greenhouse in well-
drained pots, and in a soil composed
of equal parts of sandy loam and
peat. The pots will require to be
often watered, but should have no
saucers, as the roots are easily

withered by drought, or rotted by |

excess of moisture. ‘The species are
propagated by cuttings, struck in
sand under a bell-glass, but without
bottom-heat.

Day Lity.—See Hemeroca’LLis. |

DeravD LEAVES.—Few persons are
aware of the great value of dead

leaves to a florist; but the fact is |
that, when decayed, leaves form the |

best of all manures for flowering
plants.

In this state they are called |

leaf-mould or vegetable-mould ; and |
under one of these names they will |
be found continually referred to in |

all books treating of the culture of
flowers. To prepare this vegetable-
mould, the dead leaves should be
swept up in November, and laid ina
heap in the reserve ground ; the heap
should be occasionally turned over,
say perhaps once a month, and in
about a year, or at any rate by the
end of the second spring, the mould
will be fit for use.

DeavDiLy NicHTsHADE.—A tropa

DELPHINIUM.

Belladénna, a plant of little beauty,
and a deadly poison.

Decayine Leaves.—Many trees
and shrubs are very ornamental from
the beautiful colours which their
leaves assume in autumn; andamong
these may be mentioned the Ampel-
épsis, or Virginian Creeper, the dif-
ferent kinds of Rhis or Sumach, the
Liquidambar, the American Oaks
and Maples, the Rhododendrons,
Azaléas, &c. Many large trees, such
as the Birch, the Beech, the Oak,
and the deciduous Cypress, are also
very ornamental, from the colours of
their decaying leaves.

Decipuous Cypress.— Though
these trees, in favourable situations,
become too large to be included ina
work like the present, yet as they are
often introduced in shrubberies when
of a small size, it may be here ob-
served that they never grow large
unless near water. In their native
country (North America) they grow
in swamps and morasses, and are

_ there from seventy to one hundred

feet high. When grown in dry soil,
they become stunted, and rarely ex-

ceed ten or fifteen feet high; but

their foliage assumes a beautiful red
in dying off, instead of its natural
yellow. Botanists have had some
trouble to know where to place this
tree, as it was first called Cupréssus
disticha, and the generic name was
then changed, first to Schubértia,
and afterwards to Taxddium.

| SDELPHr'NIuUM. — Ranunculdacee.
The Larkspur.—W ell-knownanaual,
biennial, and perennial plants, with
curiously-cut leaves and splendid
flowers, which are either purple,
pink, blue, or white, and never
yellow. The Siberian Larkspurs
are remarkable for the metallic
lustre of their flowers, the hue of
which resembles that of silver which
has been tarnished by fire; and the

~ |

DENDROBIUM.

and interesting for the curious

manner in which their petals are
folded up in the centre of the flower,
so as to resemble a bee, or a large
blue-bottle fly. Several very showy
species of Delphinium were intro-
duced in 1855 and 1856, and par-
ticularly one from California, with
bright scarlet flowers, D. cardinale.
It is a hardy annual, and a most
valuable addition to our flower-
gardens. The Larkspurs will grow
in any soil or situation ; but a rich
friable loam, and a situation open to
the sun, suit them best. They are
improved by the addition of a good
deal of thoroughly rotten manure to
the soil in which they grow, instead
of being injured by it, as is the case
with most other flowering plants,
The seeds keep good a long time;
and those of the annual kinds do
best sown in autumn, as, when
sown in spring, they are a long time
before they flower. The perennials
are propagated by division of the
root.

«x DENpDRO'BIUM. — Orchidacee. —
Splendid orchideous Epiphytes, which
may be grown on the branches of
trees, or in pots suspended from the
rafters of the damp stove. They are
generally propagated by taking off a
joint of the pseudo-bulb or stem, and
planting itin turfy loam,well drained.
No watershould be given till the plant
begins to shoot from below; but ina
short time, the green tips of its roots
will be seen protruding through the
loose soil in the pot, and hanging
down over the rim. Itisnowina
growing state, and if well supplied
with water, and kept in a damp at-
mosphere, it will increase rapidly ;
but care should be taken that its
long roots are not injured, as those
that are will wither away, and never
recover. The pots should be hung

obliquely, so that the flowers may |

Bee Larkspurs are both remarkable hang down in long spikes, when they

SS sR

| will haveasplendid appearance. The |

DIANTHUS. 9

2 DIANTHUS.

most ornamental species are natives
of Nepaul and other parts of the East
Indies, and some of them are hardier

_ than many other kinds of Orchids.

The beautiful D. chrysanthemum,

_ however, which isa native of Nepaul,
_ should have a heat of 75° to throw
it into flower.

DeptrorD Pinx.—Didnthus Ar-

| méria.—An annual species of Dian-
_ thus, with clusters of small pink

' seentless flowers,

_ of Britain, generally found in gravelly |

something like
those of Lébel’s Catchfly. A native

and herbaceous plants, containing
several beautiful and well-known
flowers. The most popular perhaps
of these is the Carnation (Didénthus
Caryophyllus), which is occasionally
found in a wild state in Britain on
old walls, particularly on the ruins of
Rochester Castle, &e. In a culti-
vated state, the Clove Carnation
may be called the breeder, or normal
form, as it bears about the same re-
lation to the variegated Carnations as
the self-coloured Tulipsand Auriculas
do to the named varieties of those

plants. The varieties of Carnations

_ soil, and growing freely in any gar-/| are divided into three kinds: the

_ den where the soil is not too rich.

| Flakes, which are striped with broad
Desrontainia. — Solanacece. — | bands of two colours; the Bizarres,
A very curious South American | which are striped or streaked with

| plant, with leaves like a holly, and | three colours; and the Picotees,

| white flowers. They will thrive in
_ any light soil in the open ground ;

long tube-like scarlet and yellow | which are much the hardiest, and
flowers. are only bordered with a narrow

Dev’tz1a. — Philadelphacee.— | margin of some dark colour, or
Slender-branched, graceful shrubs, | dotted with very small and almost
with compound panicles of beautiful | imperceptible spots. Carnations
should be grown in a rich loam,
| mixed with sand or peat to keep it
but as they require a slight protection | open, and a little rotten cow-dung,
during winter, they are generally | or yegetable-mould to enrich it.

_ grown in pots, and kept in the green- | They do best in pots, and the earth

_ house.
_ species, takes its specific name from

should be pressed into the pots as

D. scabra, the most common |
| firmly as possible, more so, indeed,

the roughness of its leaves ; which, | thanforany other plant. The plants

in its native country, Japan, are

|
said by Thunberg to be used by the |

cabinet-makers in polishing the finer
kinds of wood.
DEVIL IN A BUSH.—See NIGE’/LLA,
Deviw’s Bit.—Scabidsa succisa.

. —A kind of Scabious, quite hardy,

and growing in any soil or situation.
It was formerly supposed to have

| great medicinal virtues ; and hence,

says the legend, the devil, envying
mankind such a treasure, attempted

_ to destroy it, by biting off a part of

|
;

the root, which appears as though a
part of it were bitten off at this day.
_ Dra’ntHus.—Caryophyllacee, or
Silenacee.—A genus of perennial

| dle of November, the plants should

raised from layers should be sepa- |
rated from the parent in August, |
and they may be potted three in a
five-inch pot. The pots should be |
well drained, and the plants fre- |
quently watered till about the |
middle of October, when the water- |
ing should be gradually decreased. |
The layers, when first potted, may |
be kept in the open air; shading |
them for a few days after potting
from the sun, and putting a hand-
glass over them if there should be
apprehended any danger of severe
frost at night, though a little frost

will not hurt them. About the mid-

Z NS ee

DIANTHUS.

93

DIANTHUS.

be removed to a greenhouse or shed,
where they should be kept entirely
in the shade, merely protected from
the frost, as they will bear a con-
siderable degree of cold much better
than too much heat. Here they may
remain till March or April, according
to the season, when they should be
repotted, and after a few days turned
into the open air. In May they may
be either planted out in beds or re-
moved to larger pots for flowering,
which they will doin Juneand July.
When the buds have formed, the

plants should be well watered morn- |
ing and evening, and in the evening |

they should be syringed over the
leaves, always waiting till the sun
has gone down. The principal points
of beauty in a Carnation are, that the
stem should be strong and erect, the
calyx well and regularly opened, the
flower round, with the petals regu-
larly disposed, the largest on the
outside, and gradually decreasing in
size to the centre, and the colours
clear and distinct, those with a white
ground being preferred. The stripes
should also be broadest at the margin
of each petal. As the calyx of the
Carnation is very apt to burst on one
side before it opens on the other, and
as this spoils the shape of the flower,
many cultivators gently divide the
sepals with a pin as soon as the buds
are fully swelled ; and others slip a
round piece of card-board, with a hole
in the centre, over the bud while it is
yet quite small, and push it up over
the calyx, so as to force it to open first
atthetop. This piece of pasteboard
is kept on after the expansion of the
flower, and serves to keep the petals
in their proper places. Others tiea
strip of bast-mat round thelower part
of the buds, to prevent them from
opening improperly, ‘The flower is
also furnished with a stake to tie it
to, and a paper or tin cap to shade
it from the sun. Juneand July are

:

the months for making layers. For
this purpose, the outer, strongest,
and lowest shoots of the plant should
be preferred ; and each shoot should
be cut about half through, ina slant-
ing direction, at a joint. A furrow
should be made in the ground an

inch or two deep, in which the cut |

stem should be buried, and fastened
down with a bit of hooked twig, so
as to have the wounded part com-

pletely covered, and the end of the |
layer upright, an inch or two out of

the earth. The layer should be
moderately watered as soon as it is
made, andthe plant should be shaded
after the operation. It may be ob-

| served with relation to Carnations
| grown in pots, that as their stems

are generally very brittle when they
are moist and succulent, it may be
as well to set the pot in the hot sun
for about an hour before the layer is
made, to render the stalks flaccid.
Carnations are also propagated by
cuttings (see Prprnes), and some
sorts are raised from seed.

The Pink (Didnthus plumarius) |

is by some supposed to be a variety
of the Carnation ; but others make
it a distinct species, though it does
not appear to be known in a wild
state. There are many kinds, but
only what are called the laced Pinks
rank as florists’ flowers.
Pinks, to be esteemed by florists,

The laced

should have their flowers about two |

inches and a half in diameter ; and
the petals should be white, with rose
edges, and a broad ring of rich dark
purple or crimson, as nearly black

as possible, in the centre; the colours |
being all strongly marked, and quite

clear and distinct. The culture of
the laced Pink is exactly the same
as that of the Carnation ; but the
common Pinks may be planted in
the open garden, and treated exactly
the same as the other hardy perennial
border-flowers. The Tree Pink (D.

DICOTYLEDONOUS.

arbéreus) is merely a woody kind of
Carnation ; and the Mule Pink isa
hybrid between the Carnation and
the Sweet-William. They both re-
quire only the common treatment of
border-flowers. The leaves of all

_ the kinds of Pinks and Carnations

are called by gardeners the grass.
The greenhouse species of Dianthus
grow freely in light rich mould, with
a moderate allowance of air and
waiter ; and they do not require any
particular carein theirculture. They
are all very ornamental, and they are
propagated by cuttings, which strike
readily, and do not require bottom-

heat.

For the culture of Dianthus bar-
batus, see Sweet-Wiiuiam. D. chi-
nénsts, the Chinese Pink, is generally
treated asa hardyannual; but it may
be preserved in dry soil for two or
three years.

Dreser.—A short piece of wood,
about the thickness of a spade handle,
made with a place for the hand at the
upper end and a sharp point below;
used for making holes in the soil to

_ plant potatoes, &c.

DIcHORISANDRA. —Commelinee.

| —A curious stove-plant, which pro-
_ duces its showy flowers (which are

_ thickness of their stems increased
| every year by successive layers of |
| new wood, deposited on the outside

dark blue, with a pure white centre
and bright yellow stamens) from the
root. It is a native of Brazil.
DicoTyLeponovs plants have
seeds which separate into two or
more cotyledons or seed-leaves, when
they vegetate : and this class com-
prehends three-fourths of all the
known plants in the world. They
have all reticulated leaves, that is,
leaves the veins in which appear like
net-work when held up to the light;
and the ligneous species have the

of the old wood immediately under

94

the bark. In all these points, and

DIDYMOCARPUS.

many others less conspicuous, they
differ from the monocotyledonous
plants, or those the seeds of which
have only one seed leaf or cotyledon.

Dicta’MNUs.—Rutadcee.—Fraxi-

nella.—There are two species, the |
purple and the white, both hardy |
perennials, and both natives of Ger- |
many. The leaves have a pleasant |
smell, like lemon-peel, when rubbed, |
and the plant emits a phosphoric |

vapour, which may be easily ignited
by a candle, and burns like gas. The
flowers are very ornamental; and
the plants will grow in any common
garden-soil, and in any situation not
immediately under the drip of trees.

They are increased by division of the |

root.
DictyAntuus.—Aselepiadee.—
A climbing plant, resembling in its
flowers some kind of Stapelia, but
having five very curious hollow re-
cesses in the cup of the flower. It
is a native of New Granada, and
requires a stove in this country.
Dinpr’‘scus. — Umbellifere.— The
beautiful Australian plants, some-
times called by this name, and some-
times by that of Trachyméne, are
half-hardy annuals, that require to
be raised on a hotbed, and not
planted out till May or June. In

very cold exposed situations, they |
are generally grown in pots, and |

kept in the greenhouse ; but they
never flower so well as in the open
ground. The best way to grow them
is to sow the seed in autumn as soon
as it can be procured foom the seed-
shops, on a slight hotbed, to pot the
plants as soon as they have formed
their second pair of leaves, and to
keep the pots in a frame or green-
house, shifting the plants occasion-
ally, till the following spring, when
they may be planted in the open
ground in a light rich soil, and they
will flower beautifully.
DipyMocARrPvus.-—Cyrtandracec.

ee

DIGITALIS. 95 DIONZA.

—D. Humboldiiana is a very pretty | herbaceous species, which modern
little plant from the mountains of} botanists have left in the genus
Ceylon. It is a greenhouse plant | Digitalis, are mostly natives of the
here, with lilac flowers, slender} south of Europe, and are all orna-
seed pods, and primula-looking| mental. They require a light rich
leaves. The habit of the plant is | soil, and are propagated by seeds.

very like that of Chirita sinensis. Ditiwy’nia. — Leguminose. —

Dir’LytR«A.— Fumariacee.—The | Australian shrubs, with heath-like
new name given to several kinds of | leaves, and pea-flowers, which are
Fumaria; as, for example, / eximza, | generally scarlet and orange. They
fF. formosa, &e. A very handsome | should be grown in pots well drained,
species of this genus (D. spectdbilis) | and in a mixture of peat, loam, and
which wasintroduced by Mr. Fortune, | sand ; and they should be well and
from China, in 1846, will flower in | regularly watered, but no water
the open air near London, if kept | should ever be allowed to stand in
under glass during the winter. the saucers, if their pots should

Drervi'L1a. — Caprifoliacee.— | have any, but they are much better
A little North American shrub, with | without. They are propagated by
yellow flowers, something like those | cuttings, which should be struck in
of the Honeysuckle in shape. It| sand under a bell-glass.
was formerly considered to belong to} DiImoRPHOTHE'cA. — Compésite.
Lonicera. lt is very hardy, and will | —Professor De Candolle’s new name
grow in almost any soil or situation, | for the Cape Marigolds, formerly
sending up abundance of suckers, by | called Caléndula pluvidlis and C.
which it is easily increased. hibrida.—See CaLe/NDULA.

Diccine.—The art of pulverising| Dion#'sa.—Droseradcee.—-Venus’s
the ground so as to reduce it toa fit | Fly-trap.—A curious little American
state to be penetrated by the roots of | plant, nearly allied to the common
plants ; and also to render it pervious | Sundew, so often found in bogg
to the rain and air, without the aid | meadows in different parts of En-
of which neither seeds could vegetate | gland.—(See Dro’sera.) Dione'a
nor trees grow. Digging (or plough- | Muscipula has a scaly root, almost
ing, which is the same thing on a| like a liliaceous bulb, and it sends
larger scale) is the first operation | out few fibres ; it is, therefore, very
performed by man on a barren waste | difficult to keep, but it does best in
when he takes it into cultivation. | a greenhouse, grown in moss, with

Dierra'‘tis. — Scrophularine. — | a little mould at the bottom of the
The Foxglove.—If this plant were | pot, and the pot kept standing in
not a common British weed, it would | water, and covered with a bell-glass
be thought very ornamental; and, in | during the heat of the day. The
fact, the Teneriffe species, D. cana- | glass is generally taken off towards
riénsis, L. (Isopléxis canariénsis, | the evening, and the plant allowed

G. Don), with yellow flowers, and | plenty of fresh air; but some gar- |

D. scépirum, L. (I. scéptrum, G. | deners do not think this necessary.
Don), with orange flowers, are fa- | Itis supposed that the flies this plant
vourite greenhouse shrubs. They | catches, are useful in nourishing it,
should be grown in a mixture of| though not essential to its support ;
lime and peat, and may be propa- | and the experiment has been tried of
gated by cuttings or seeds, which | feeding it with very small pieces of

hae ripen inabundance. The hardy | raw meat, which in a few days ap-

DIPLADENIA.

96

DIVISION.

mucus, and soon disappeared.
the like manner, the remains of the |
bodies of flies are often found in the |
leaves of this plant and those of the
common Sundew, though both plants
will thrive, if kept sufficiently moist,
without such nourishment.

Dio'sMa.—Rutdcee.—Cape shrubs
with hair-like roots, which require
to be grown in pots in a greenhouse
or room, in sandy peat, well drained,
and frequently watered. Like all
the Cape shrubs, they are easily
killed by too much or too little
water; and should never be suffered
to stand with water in a saucer, or
to get too dry. They have a very
peculiar smell, which some persons
like, and which is said to be very
wholesome ; but which is generally
thought to be very disagreeable, and
which remains in gloves, or any other
article of dress that may havetouched |
the plant, fora longtime. The Hot-
tentot belles are said to use it as a
perfume. The plants have heath-
like leaves, and small but pretty
flowers; they are propagated by
cuttings, which root freely in sand
under a glass.

Dr’piacus. — Scrophularine. —
The Monkey-plant.—The shrubby
kinds of Mimulus, with yellow or
scarlet flowers; which should be
grown in a mixture of sandy loam
and peat. They are natives of
California, and, like all the plants
from that country, they are easily
killed by the sun striking on the
collar of the root; they likewise
suffer severely from drought, or too
much moisture. They are propa-
gated by cuttings struck in sand
without bottom-heat.

DIpPLaDENIA. — Apocynee. — D.
jlava is a very showy bright golden |

| yellow flower, very like the Alla- |

It is a native of New!

manda.

| Granada, whence it was first sent to |

peared surrounded by ‘a kind of England in 1845 ; but it has only
In | lately flowered in this country.

The genus Dipladenia was for-
merly called Lchites ; and the spe-
cies are generally climbing plants,
shrubby towards the base. See
EcHIvTEs,

DipLoLz'NA. — Rutacee. — D.
Dampiéri is a very singular plant,
the flowers of which resemble those
of one of the Compésite. It is a
native of Western Australia, whence
it was introduced about 1840.

Di/rca.— Thymelacee.—Leather-
wood.—This is the smallest of trees,
as though some of the kindsof Wiliow
are of still lower growth, they are too
herbaceous in the texture of their
stems to be legitimately entitled to
the rank of trees. The Direa, on
the contrary, is as completely a tree
as an oak, though it seldom grows
above three feet high. Itis a native
of America, and requires a marshy
soil, or to be grown in peat kept
constantly moist.

Disre’mMA.—Passifloracee,—This
is a genus of very handsome plants,
natives of Australia, and nearly allied
to the Passion Flower. The flowers
of D, aurdntia are remarkable for
their change of colour, being nearly
white in the bud, and when they
first expand; afterwards assuming
a yellow or buff tint; and finally
becoming a brick red.

DITTANY OF CRETE.—Origanum
Dictémnus.—A kind of Marjoram,
with pink flowers ; a native of Can-
dia, which is quite hardy, but should
be grown in rich mould. On the
Continent, a branch of it hung up
in a room is said to keep away fleas
and other vermin.

Diviston.—Plants are said to be
propagated by division when they
are taken up and separated into
portions ; each portion having part
of the root and one or more buds
attached, if.in herbaceous plants ;

A i nA

‘Hence, almost all herbaceous plants | purple flowers. There is a variety

DOG’S-TOOTH VIOLET. 97 DORTMANNIA,

or a root and part of a stem, if in | nium Déns canis is a pretty bulbous-
shrubs or other ligneous plants. | rooted plant, with spotted leaves and

may be propagated by division, as| with white flowers ; and #. ameri-
they generally send up many stems | canum has large dark yellow flowers.
from their roots ; and also all those |The European kinds will grow in
shrubs or low trees that send up| any common garden-soil, and do not
suckers. In one sense, almost all | require taking up; but the American
ligneous plants may be said to be | species, which is much the hand-
propagated by division ; as cuttings | somest, is apt to waste its strength
are divisions of the stem or branches. | in producing roots instead of flowers.
Indeed, as every bud has the power, | For this reason it does best grown in
like a seed, of sending a shoot up- | well-drained pots, in rather poor soil,
wards, and roots downwards from its | or, what is better, in sandy peat.
base, every plant may be divided into | Dogwoon.—See Cornus.

as many new plants as it has buds;|_ Do’ticnos. — Leguinindse. —
but the common application of the Climbing annual and _ perennial
term division, is to the dividing of | plants, from the Hast and West
those roots which send up many | Indies, generally with purple or

stems or suckers. yellow pea-ilowers. The pods and
DoppEerR. See Cu’scuta. seeds are eatable, and in some cases
Dopeca ‘THEON.—Primulacece.— | also the roots. Soy is made from

The American Cowslip.—A very | the seeds of one of the East Indian
pretty plant, to which Linneus gave | species. They are generally grown
a very strange name ; Dodecatheon | in a stove ; but most of the kinds
signifying the twelve Roman divi- | will thrive in greenhouse heat, par- |
nities. The plant is a native of | ticularly if planted inthe free ground |
Virginia, and it is generally con-| in a conservatory, and trained up a |
sidered quite hardy; but it is very | pillar, or over trellis-work. The soil |
difficult tokeep. Itshould be grown | for all the species should be sandy |
in the open ground, ina sandy loam, |loam. D. Ldblab L. (Lablavia vul- |
in rather a shady situation, and kept | garzs D. Don), the Egyptian Bean, |
moist. One reason of its being lostis, | has splendid dark-purple flowers,
that if the roots are once suffered to | and will grow well in the open air |
become too dry, they wither, and | if treated as a half-hardy annual.
when moisture is given, they rot} Doro’nicum. — Compésite. —
instead of reviving; and another | Leopard’s-bane.—Showy perennial
reason is, that as the stem and leaves | plants, with large dark-yellow |
die away in winter, the root is often | flowers, which look very well in
dug up and thrown away as dead by | a border, and which will grow with
jobbing gardeners, who are unac-/| scarcely any care in any common
quainted with the plants of the| garden-soil. One species, a native
garden they are working in. To| of Siberia, has white flowers; and
prevent this, a mark of some kind| another, D. Bouwrgei, has lilac or
should always be fixed to the plant | pinkish flowers.
in small gardens; or when a new] Dorrma’nnta. — Lobeliacee. —
gardener is employed, its situation | Professor De Candolle’s new name
should be pointed out tohim. There} for the common British species of
are several garden varieties. Lobélia. It isan aquatic plant, and
Doe’s-toota VioLer.—ZLrythro- | is generally found in ponds, orsmall |

H

98

DRAINING.

lakes, There isan American species
of the same habits, and both have
blue flowers.

Dorya’NTHES.—A maryllidacee.
—D.excélsa,the only species known,
isasplendid Australian plant, sending
up a flower-stalk twenty or thirty
feet high, crowned with a head of
bright scarlet flowers. The plant is
herbaceous, and it requires a peatsoil
and greenhouse heat. It dies as soon
as it has produced its flowers.

Dory’cnium.—Leguminose. —A
genusof little hardy plants, separated
by Tourneforte from the Lotus, or
Bird’s-foot Trefoil, and growing freely
in any common soil. They are most
suitable for rock-work.

DovuBLE DwarFr ALMOND. —See
Cr’RASUS.

DovusLeE FLowERSare particularly
desirable to cultivate in gardens, not
only from their beauty, but from the
comparative certainty that exists of
their producing their flowers every
year, the plant not being weakened
by ripening seed ; as the stamens and
pistil are generally all turned into
petals. This is peculiarly the case
with the double-flowered trees and
shrubs ; the double-flowered Peach,
the double-flowered Cherry, and the
double-flowered Hawthornnever fail-
ing to produce abundance of blossoms
every year so long as the tree con-
tinues in health; while the single-
flowered kinds generally fail in pro-
ducing an abundant crop of blossoms
every second or third year. The ob-
servation, however, does not apply so
forcibly to semi-double flowers, as
from only a part of their styles and
stamens being turned into petals, they
generally ripen abundance of seeds.

Dove FLowErR.— Beautiful orchi-
daceous plants, the flowers of which
resemble a dove sitting in her nest.
—See Perist‘ErRIA.

Dra'‘Ba.—Cruciferce.—Whitlow-
grass. —Very low plants, admirably

adapted for rock-work, as they are
generally found in a wild state in
the fissures and crevices of rocks
and mountains. They have white or
yellow flowers, and should be grown
in sandy soil, on a bank, or in any
open situation exposed to the sun.

Dracz\na. — Asphodelicee. —
The Dragon-tree.—Eastern trees and
shrubs with the habit ofpalms. They
require a stove in England, and to be
grownin peat andloam. The tooth-
brushes called Dragon’s-root, are
made from the root of the tree
species cut into pieces, about four
inches long ; each of which is beaten
at one end with a wooden mallet, to
split it into fibres.

Dracocr PHALUM.— Labidie.—
Dragon’s-head.—Several species of
this genus are well known as garden
flowers ; particularly D. moldavicum,
the Moldavian Balm, a hardy annual,
and D. canariénse, the Balm of
Gilead, a greenhouse shrub, which
should be grown in rich mould, and is
propagated by cuttings. Some
of the perennial species, such as D.
canéscens, D. grandiflorum (a native
of Siberia),and D. austriacum, have
large and splendid blue flowers ; all
these are quite hardy in any common
garden-soil, and they are all propa-
gated by seeds or by division of the
roots.

Dratyinc.—Draining in the open
garden is effected either by surface-
gutters, into which the water may
run, which does not sink into the soil ;
or by underground channels, formed
by earthenware tubes called draining-
tiles, or by tunnels built of brick or
stone, or by open drains partially
filled with small pebbles, broken
stones or bricks, or even by faggots,
branches of trees, or other similar
materials, which will preserve a
porous channel through which the
water may percolate. The draining-
tiles er other materials should not

99

DUMB CANE.

the common depth of dug ground,
say about a foot or eighteen inches ;
and they need not be placed deeper
than the usual depth of trenched
ground, say between two and three
feet. Plant-pots and boxes are
drained by placing crocks or pot-
sherds, shells, small stones,or cinders,
over the hole in the bottom of the
pot ; and in large pots these materials
may be covered with any fibrous
matter, such as old matted roots,
loose moss, pieces of turf, &c., which
will prevent the earth from mixing
with the potsherds, stones, or other
substances employed for draining.
The great object of draining is to
prevent the stagnation of water about
the roots which rots the spongioles
or elastic extremities of the fibres,
and soddens or consolidates the earth
in such a manner that the roots can-
not penetrate into it, or if they do,
that they decay for want of air. For
| most plants the best materials are
old pots, broken into pieces little
more than an inch in diameter, which
gardeners call crocks or potsherds, as
from their porous nature they form
reservoirs of moisture, which will
prevent the plants from ever becoming
too dry. Cinders, on the contrary,
are to be preferred for delicate or
succulent-rooted plants, as the crocks
retain so much moisture as to be in-
jurious to the roots of these plants.
| The Australian or Cape shrubsshould
have their pots drained with two or
three layers of crocks, as these will
retain sufficient moisture to prevent
the roots from withering, which even
an hour or two of perfect dryness
would occasion them to do.
Dri~itine.—Sowing seeds singly
in furrows made in straight lines; a
mode of sowing very useful in culi-
nary crops, but seldom practised with
flowers, which scarcely ever require
to be earthed up.

DRILLING.
rise nearer to the surface than
|

Dro'sera. — Droserdcee. — The
Sundew.—British, American, and
Australian plants with hairy leaves
and curious flowers which require to
be grown in moss, or peat, or heath-
mould, kept moist, and during the
heat of the day covered with a bell-
glass. The hairs on the leaves sup-
port drops of water in the hottest
weather, and being very irritable,
close on any insect that may chance
to touch them, like those of Dione'a
Muscipula, Venus’s Fly-trap, the
leaf bending over the insect, and
holding it in prison. The Italian
liqueur called Rossoglia is said to
take its name from one of the species
being used in its composition. The
Australian species from the Swan
River, seeds of which have been intro-
duced by Capt. Mangles, promises to
be very beautiful. All the kinds of
Drésera appear to be very short-
lived ; and probably will not live
longer than three or four years,
whatever care may be taken of them.

Dry stove.—A hothouse, or plant
structure, for tropical plants which do
not requirea moist heat, such as some
of the kinds of Cacti, or other succu-
lent plants. The temperature of the
dry stove should not be less, even
in winter, than between 55° and 65°,
but in summer it may be from 10°
to 20° higher. The plants are placed
on shelves or benches ; and they are
grown in pots of sandy peat, or very
porous soil, thoroughly drained. which
in general should be kept much drier
than the soil of plants either in the
greenhouse, or in the moist or bark
stove. The plants generally grown
ina dry stove are the different species
of Melocacti, Epiphyllum, Céreus,
Euphorbia, Stapélia, Agave, Mesem-
bryanthemum, Crassula, Sédum,
Sempervivum, Laréchea, and several
sorts of bulbs, such as Lachenalia,
O'xalis, &c.

Dumps Cane.—Caladium sequi-

H 2

= cee Oe ee SS eee

DWARFING.

100

DWARFING.

num.—A kind of Arum, requiring a
bark stove, and more curious than
beautiful,

Dovavu'sa.—Anacardiacee, or Te-
vebinthacee.—Chilian shrubs, which
prove nearly hardy in the climate of
London. Theywere called A. myris
by Cavanilles,and Schinus by Ortega,
both professors of botany at Madrid ;
and they are occasionally found under
these names in gardensand nurseries.
The commonest kind, D. depéndens
Dec. (A. myris polygamia, Cav.),
withstood the winter of 1837-8, in
the Horticultural Society’s Garden,
with very little protection. The
leaves of plants of this genus, if
thrown upon water, will start and
jump about in a very extraordinary
manner ; and they smell strongly of
turpentine. The plants should be
grown ina light dry soil, and trained
against a south wall, where they can
be protected by a thatched coping
during winter. The flowers, which
are white, are produced in small
spikes, and they are succeeded by
dark-purple berries.

Dwarr Fan-Patm.—Chame'rops
humilis.—This plant is the hardiest
of the Palm tribe, and it will succeed
if planted out on a lawn, and slightly
protected during severe frosts. It
should be grown in rich mould, well
drained and occasionally watered.
When planted out on a lawn, a pit
should be dug for it about two feet
deep ; at the bottom of which should
be two or three layers of pebbles, to
insure drainage, and then the pit filled
up with rich sandy loam. Thus
treated, and protected during severe
winters, by a moveable frame of can-
vass, stretched on hoops, or of basket-
work, it will grow vigorously, and
live many years.—See Protectine,

Dwarrinc.—Insomecases, where
there is very little room, it may be
desirable to know howto obtain dwarf

trees ; though generallyspeaking,they |

are, like all unnatural objects, in bad
taste, and rather disagreeable than
pleasing. Wherever Chinese buildings
are introduced, however, afew dwarf-
stunted elms in China vases should
be placed near them; as in China it
is said that no garden is considered
complete without several of these
little monsters. The mode of making
them is to take a ring of bark off one
of the branches of a full-grown Elm
tree, and to surround it with earth
wrapped in moss, which should be
keptconstantly moist, by water being
thrown on it several times a day, or
by a vessel being suspended over it,
so contrived that the water may ooze
out a drop ata time, and thus be con-
tinually and regularly falling on the
moss. In the course of a few weeks,
the branch will have thrown out roots:
and when this is supposed to be the
case, it should be detached from the
parent tree, and planted with the
moss still round it in a small pot in
very poor soil; as soon as it begins
to grow, it should be shifted into
another pot a little larger ; and this
shifting should be repeated several
times, into larger and larger pots,
always using poor, stony, or gravelly
soil, and giving the plant very little
water. Thus treated, the plant will
soon become a little stunted tree,
bearing all the marks of old age; and
looking likea poor, decrepit, oldman,
bent double with age. It is obvious
that other forest-trees might be
dwarfed in the same manner; so
that a miniature forest might easily
be formed, the Oaks assuming a
gnarled and rugged character, and
bearing acorns, and the Pines and
Firs with rough furrowed bark, and
covered with cones, and yet the whole
not above two feet high.

Another mode of dwarfing ligneous
plants is employed to throw them into
flower or fruit. It is found that many
stove-plants only bear fruit at the

DWARFING,

101

EARWIG.

extremity of their branches, and that

our hothouses are not large enough
to permit them to atiain the requisite
size. Cuttings are therefore made
from the points of the shoots; and
when these grow, other cuttings are
made from their shoots. In this way
small compact plants are obtained,
the wood of which may be more
easily ripened than that of large
plants, and which seldom fail to
produce flowers and fruit. The late
Professor Van Mons practised this
mode of dwarfing to obtain fruit from
his seedling pears sooner than he
could otherwise have done.

Another mode of dwarfing trees
and shrubs, is by grafting them on
other low-growing species of the same,
or some nearly allied genus: thus,
for example, the common Horse-
chestnut, 4’sculus Hippocdstanum,
may be grafted on Pavia humilis,
which does not grow above three or
four feet high : the Azarole, or any
of the large American thorns, might
be grafted on Crate‘gus parviflora,
or C. viridis, which are about two
feet high ; and the common British,
or any of the large-growing American
Oaks, on the Bear-oak, Quércus
Banisteri, or ilicifolia, which grows
to the height of about three feet.

Herbaceous plants, whether annual
or perennial, may be dwarfed, by
growing them first invery small pots,
and shifting them into other pots,
gradually increasing in size every
time ; taking care that each pot shall
be well drained, and that the soil
used to fill up the pots shall be a rich
sandyloam. Thus treated, and sup-
plied with abundance of water, which
is not suffered to remain round the
roots, and kept in an open situation,
where they can have plenty of light
and air, and not be exposed to cold
winds, all herbaceous plants will be-
come bushy and compact, and will
produce flowers at the extremity of

every shoot ; while, on the contrary,
if suffered to remain in small pots,
they will become drawn up, with weak
naked stems, and produce compara-
tively few flowers.

ARTHS.—Most amateur gar-
deners confound the words earth
and soil; but they are quite distinct.
There are only three primitive earths,
viz., lime, sand, and clay ; and these,
by the admixture of other substances,
and particularly of decayed animal or
vegetable matter, become soils. Thus
lime, by absorbing carbon, changes to
chalk, and becomes the basis of all
caleareoussoils; andclay, mixed with
a little sand and decayed animals and
vegetables, becomes loam. When sand
predominates in this composition,
or when pure sand is added to it, the
soil is called sandy loam, and this is
the very best of all soils for vegetation;
and when chalk or lime is added,
instead of an extra proportion of sand,
the soil is called calcareous loam, and
is admirably suited for culinary vege-
tables, &c.,and some kinds offlowers.
Gravel is a kind of coarse sand; and
sandstone, sand ina solid state. Peat
is not properly an earth, but decayed
vegetable matter, which has been
saturated with water while the pro-
cess of decomposition was going on.
EartuH Prea.—Ldthyrus anphi-
carpos.—Anannual Pea, which forms
part of its flowers and pods under
ground; and which, though not very
beautiful, is often cultivated for its
singularity. Itisa hardy annual,and
should be sown in March or April.
Earwic.—Forfi’cula auricularia.
—A well-known insect, that, by a
singular chance, has obtained a bad
character for the mischief that it does
not do; while that which it really
does passes comparatively without
notice. Many persons destroy ear-

wigs whenever they see them, from a

a eee _—

ECCREMOCARPUS.

102

ECHINOCACTUS.

fear of their creeping into the ear,
and, by eating through the drum,
oceasioning deafness, —though this is
what they cannot do; while but few
persons, except florists, are aware of
the great mischief that they do in
flower-gardens, and that they should
be destroyed on that account, with as
much care as slugs, snails, or wood-
lice. They are particularly fond of at-
tacking flowers in the bud; and they
destroy, in this manner, greatnumbers
of Dahlias and carnations. They also
attack bulbous-rooted plants, and all
flowers that have succulent petals.
Many expedients have been devised
to catch these troublesome insects,
and, among others, troughs of water
have been placed round particular
plants. These are, however, of no
avail, as the earwigs are furnished
with wings,though they are so delicate
in their texture, and fold into such
little space, as to be rarely seen. Ear-
wig-traps are also formed of hollow
pieces of cane, or rhubarb-stalks, and
sometimes of wood, or even of tin.
The earwigs feed during the night,
and creep into these hollow tubes
in the morning, to avoid the heat of
the sun; and consequently may be
shaken out and killed, at any time
during the day. The earwig differs
in its habits from other insects, in
regard to its young; as it sits on its
eggs, and broodsover the young ones,
like a hen over her chickens: most
other insects, on the contrary, die as
soon as they have laid their eggs,
which they leave to be hatched by
the sun, and the young to take care
of themselves.
EccoreMoca’/RPUS.—Bignoniacee.
—F, scaber Ruiz et Pavon (Calaém-
pelis scabra D. Don).—A half-hardy
climber, of exceedingly vigorous
growth, producing a great profusion
of orange-scarlet flowers, and ripening
abundance of seed. It will grow in
any common garden-soil; and if cut

down to the root in autumn, and
covered with dead leaves, straw, or
anything to preserve it from the frost
during winter, it will shoot up again
the following spring. It may be
propagated by cuttings struck under
a bell-glass: but it ripens seeds so
freely, that it is most easily raised
fromthem., They should be sown in
autumn as soon as they are ripe on a
slight hotbed ; and the plants, which
should be kept in a frame or green-
house, should be shifted two or three
times till they are ready for planting
out in April or May. They should
be watered and shaded for a day or
two, till they seem established ; but
after that they will require no further
care, except a little training, if they
are wanted to cover any particular
part of the wall, &c.

EcHEVE'RIA. — Crassulacece. —
Mexican or Californian plants, of the
habit of growth of the Houseleek, but
generally with very ornamental bright
scarlet or rose-coloured flowers, which
are remarkable for retaining their
beauty for two weeks after they have
been gathered. £. rettsa, introduced
by Mr. Hartweg from Mexico in

1846, is a very pretty, half-shrubby,
dwarf species, which produces its
beautiful panicles of crimson and
| orange-coloured flowers in the green-
‘house from November to April. It
is easily increased by cuttings of the
leaves. It should be grown in a
mixture of light loam, with leaf-
mould and plenty of sand.
Ecurnoca’crus. — Cacticee. —
Round-shaped Cacti, which take their
name from their resemblance in form
and spines to a curled-up hedgehog.
There is, however, a great degree of
confusion about them, and some
species that are called Echinocdcti by
some botanists, are called Melocdcti
by others ; and those with very long
_tube-shaped flowers have lately been
‘called Céreus, because the flowers in

ECHITES.

103

EDGINGS.

their construction resemble those of
the other plants belonging to the
genus Céreus. Whatever botanic
name may be given to them, all the
round-shaped, ribbed, spiny, or por-
cupine Cacti, require the same treat-
ment ; that is, to be grown in vege-
table-mould, mixed with pounded
bricks, or lime-rubbish, and allowed
bottom-heat where practicable. The
pots should be drained with cinders;
and the plants should be frequently
watered, but the water should never
be given overhead; as it will rot the
centre, where there is an indentation,
if suffered to lie there, and this can
hardly be avoided, if water is poured
all over the plants. They are propa-
gated by seeds, which should be sown
in silver sand, and placed in a warm
shaded situation; or by cutting off the
top of the plant, and after letting it
lie a day or two to dry, planting it in
silver sand, and not watering it; when
it will soon throw out shoots, while
the other part of the plant will form
anewtop. The young plants, when

raised from seed, should not be)

watered when transplanted, for
several days after transplantation.
The flowers of all the porcupine Cacti

are very ornamental; and _ those:

which are considered to belong to
Céreus, sometimes have the tubes of
the flowers a foot long.
Ecur'nops.— Composite. — The
Globe Thistle. —Hardy annual, bien-
nial, and perennial plants, generally
with blue flowers ; that require only
the common culture of their respec-
tive kinds, and which will grow in
almost any soil and situation.
Ecut'res.—A pocynacece. — Beau-
tiful stove and greenhouse climbers,
which grow freely in a mixture of
sandy loam and peat; and which
should be trained up the pillars, and
under the rafters. They are propa-
gated by cuttings, which strike

been lately introduced by Messrs.
Veitch, of Exeter, one of the hand-
somest of which is Z. atropurpirea,
a greenhouse climber from South
Brazil, with very dark-purple flowers.
See DipnapE‘ntA.

E‘cx1um.— Boraginacee. -Viper’s
Bugloss.—Perennial, biennial, and
annual plants, generally with rich

dark-blue flowers ; though some of

the kinds that are natives of the Cape
of Good Hope, and the Canaries, have
red, white, or violet flowers. They
all require a light soil, and will grow
well in either sandy or peaty loam ;
and they are easily propagated by
seeds or division of the root.
Epernes are lines of plants, gene-
rally evergreens, to separate walks
| from beds or borders. The plant in
| most universal use for this purpose in
British gardens is the dwarf Box; a
| lowevergreen shrub, which retainsits
| leavesfor two or three, and even four
| years, and bears clipping, so as to be
kept not more than three or four
inches high, two inches or three inches
broad atthe base, and one inchat top.
For the mode of forming box-edgings,
see Bu’xus.

Edgings to beds and borders are
also formed of other materials, such
as lines of bricks, tiles, or slates, or
of narrow strips of stone, or even of
wood. In general, however, edgings

of thiskind havea meagreappearance, |

especially in small gardens, though |

they have this advantage, that they
do not harbour snails, slugs, or other
vermin. In architectural flower-
gardens, near a house, where the

garden must necessarily partake of |

the character of the architecture of
the building, stone or brick edgings

are essential, and they should be |

formed of strips of curb-stone, bedded
on stone or brickwork, so as never to
sink. These stone-edgings should
never be more than two or three

/
|
|
/
/
|

readily. Several new species have | inches wide, and they should not rise |

4

EDGINGS. 4

04

EDWARDSIA.

above the surface of the walk more
than two inches; otherwise, when
they rise higher, unless the walk
be of more than the usual breadth,
they give it a sunken appearance,
which is very unpleasant to the eye.
In forming edgings of brick, the
bricks should generally be placed in
the ground endwise; and the best

| effect is produced by using bricks
_ that have been moulded with round

ends on purpose. Edgings of tiles,
to be kept securely in their places,
should beset in concealed brickwork ;
otherwise they are apt to get out of
place, and to have a ragged and
temporary appearance. The same
may be said of edgings of slate ; and,
in general, brick and slate edgings are
much improved by a line of dwarf
evergreens, planted close to them on
the bed, or border side. Edgings of
boards should be of oak, for the sake
of durability; and they should be
kept securely in their places by con-
cealed posts, driven into the ground,
to which the boards should be nailed,
beneath the surface of the walk.
Much of the beauty of all gardens,
whether useful or ornamental,depends
on the neatness and high keeping of
the edgings ; for whatever may be the
state of the boundary fence, of the
gravel, or pavement of the walks, and
of the soil or plants of the borders, if
the edgings have an uneven, ragged,
appearance, or if the plants be either
too large or too small, the garden will
be at once felt to be in bad keeping.
Hitherto nothing has been said
of edgings of turf, because these
are chiefly applicable to pleasure-
grounds. To form them, the ground
is first dug, and then levelled, so as
to be about the intended height of
the gravel, or half an inch below it.
It is then firmly beaten, so that it
may not sink afterwards; and the
turf, which should be procured from
a smooth, even pasture, is laid down,

and rolled or beaten with a broad
flat mallet, fixed in a long handle,
called a turf-beater, so as to be
rendered perfectly firm and even.
The breadth of turf-edgings should
seldom be less than two feet, because
less than this width cannot be
conveniently mown. After the turf
has been laid down, a garden-line
should be stretched along its margin,
and the edges should be cut smooth
with a spade oraturfing iron. The
walk may now be filled in with
gravel to within an inch of the upper
surface of the turf, and the soil of
the border may also be raised to the
same height. In the management
of the turf afterwards, the greatest
care must be taken not to cut the
edgings of the turf so as to show a
line of earth, which always produces
a raw and harshappearance. Gen-
erally speaking, only the grass should
be clipped close on the side next the
walk; and if it be found that the
roots of the grass have penetrated
into the gravel, so as to make the
use of the turf-cutter necessary, the
edges of the cut turf should be after-
wards gently pressed down, so as to
make the grass slope gently up from
the walk. This slope will, however,
be very trifling ; as, if the walks are
kept properly full of gravel, they
ought to be as nearly as possible on
a level with the turf. These remarks
will, of course, apply to all cases
where there is a gravel walk through
or round a lawn; or, in short, to all
points of junction between gravel and
grass.

Epwa/rpsis. — Leguminose. —
Half-hardy low treesand shrubs, with
pinnate leaves, and very curiously-
shaped flowers (which are of a dark
golden yellow) and seed-pods. The
plants will grow well in the open air,
against a wall, if protected during
winter by a thatched coping. The

| soil should be sandy loam, and kept

SSS ee ee

ELICHRYSUM.

105

ENKIANTHUS.

moderately dry, as too much moisture
at the roots is apt to make the leaflets
turn yellowand drop off. The species
are all natives of New Zealand ; and,
on their first introduction, they were
supposed to belong to the genus
Sophora. They are propagated by
cuttings, in sand, under a bell-glass.
The handsomest species is Zdward-
sia Macnabiana.

Eca Prant.—Solanum Melon-
gena L.—-A tender annual, nearly
allied to the Tomato, the fruit of
which, when white, greatly resembles
an egg. There are some varieties
with violet-coloured, and some with
dark-purple fruit. All the kinds are
eatabie, if dressed like the Tomato.
The seed should be sown in light
rich earth, on a hotbed, in February
or March, and the young plants
pricked out into pots, and shifted
several times, till they are ready to
flower. They may then be removed
to the hothouse or greenhouse ; but
they will not ripen their fruit without
a good deal of heat.

EL#a/GNuSs.—Eleagnacee. --The
Oleaster, or Wild Olive. Curious-
looking low trees, or shrubs, with
bluish-green leaves, covered with a
white silky down, that gives them a
silvery look in the sunbeams. The
flowers are small and tube-shaped ;
they are of a pale yellow, and rather
fragrant. The fruit resembles the
Olivein shape, andisofadark reddish
brown. There are only two hardy
species, one of which is a native of
the Levant, and the other of
America ; they both require a light
rich soil, and a somewhat sheltered
situation ; and they are both propa-
gated by seeds or cuttings. The
Nepal species require a greenhouse.

ELDER.—See SamBu'cus.

EvLepHant’s Foor.—See TeEsrv-
DINA‘RIA. ;

Eicury'suM.—See HELicHry'-
SUM.

ExsHo’Ltz1a.—Labiate. --A plant
of no beauty, the flowers of which
somewhat resemble those of. the
common Mint, but are smaller and
less conspicuous. The plant is only
noticed here from the resemblance of
its name to that of the Eschschéltzia,
which induced Dr. Lindley to propose
to change the name of the latter genus
to Chryséis ; in the same way as it
was proposed to change the name of
the Dahlia on account of its similarity
to Dalea. As, however, the German
names are found to be quite as distinct
as Dahland Dale, the Eschschdltzia
retains its appellation.

EmsBo‘rarium. —Protdacee. — A

very handsome evergreen shrub with |
racemes of bright scarlet tubular |

flowers. A native of the Straits of
Magellan, whence it was introduced
in 1853.

E’/MPEetTRUM. — Lmpétree. —The
Crow SBerry.—Little heath-like
plants, with pretty flowers and very
showy berries, adapted for growing
onrockwork. They should be grown
in peat-soil, and kept rather dry.

ENCHANTER’S NIGHTSHADE.—See |

Circm’A.

EnpbocrEns. — Monocotyledonous
plants. The trees belonging to this
division, such as the Palms, Tree
Ferns, &c., increase very little in
thickness as they advance in age; but
their wood becomes gradually more
solid, by the woody fibres formed
every year in the interior of their
stems. Trees of this kind have no
medullary rays, and their trunks,
when cut down, show none of those
marks of the successive layers of wood
which are so conspicuous in exogenous
trees.

ENKIA’NTHUS. Ericacee.
Greenhouse shrubs, with very hand-
some arbutus-like pink and white
flowers, which are produced from
September to February. The plants
are very difficult to manage. They

I

a eee ee

EPACRIS.

106

EPIGHA.

should be grown in very sandy loam,
mixed with a little peat; and they
should be allowed plenty of air and
light, with only enough of heat to
exclude the frost. They will not,
however, bear planting out, as their
roots appear to require to be confined
inasmall space, and the plants rarely
do well ifthey aretransplanted,unless
before the roots have pushed through
the ball of earth in the pot, as the
roots seem to dislike fresh soil. The
pots should be well drained with
erocks, and care should be taken
neither to over-water the plants, nor
to let them become very dry. They
are propagated by cuttings of the
ripe wood, which are struck in sand,
under a bell-glass, but without
bottom-heat ; and which, when trans-
planted, should have balls of earth
attached. For this reason, only
two or three cuttings should be put
into each pot, and these should be
as far asunder as possible.
E’pacris. — Epacridew. — The
E’pacris is a New Holland shrub,
which the first settlers mistook for
a kind of Heath, and which is still
called the Heath in Australia, where
the true Heath (Zvrica) is unknown.
The E’pacris should be grown inasoil
composed of turf-bog, chopped small,
but not crumbled, and mixed with
sand; and the plants do best in double
pots, with moss, kept moist, stuffed
between ; as, if the hot sun comes on
the outside of the pot, the tender
roots, which soon become matted
round the ball of earth in the pot,
will be withered, and the plants will
receive a severe check, if they are not
killed. The pots should be well
drained, by filling them about a third
full of broken pots, or pieces of brick-
bat, the largest of which should not
exceed two inches in diameter, and
small lumps of freestone ; and this
will provide a reservoir of moisture
for the nourishmentofthe roots. The

plants should be potted high, like
Heaths, as the collar is inevitably
rotted, if buried, by the moisture
which is essentialfor the roots. They
require plenty of air and light, but
not much heat; sufficient to exclude
the frost in winter is quite enough
for them. Cuttings of the young
wood may be struck in pure sand,
under a bell-glass, and with the aid
of bottom-heat. See Err'ca, and
CUTTINGs.

E’/PHEDRA. — Genetacee. — The
shrubby Horse-tail, or Sea Grape.
Very curious small evergreen shrubs,
with jointed branches,and apparently
without leaves. They grow best in
sea-sand; and, when pegged down
and kept clipped closely, they may be
made to present the extraordinary
appearance of green turf stretching
to the very brink of the sea, and even
covered by it at full tide. They are
used for this purpose, Du Hamel
tells us, in Africa, to cover those
dry burning sands, and to give the
appearance of an English lawn,
where not a single :blade of grass
will grow. The berries are whole-
some, and, when ripe, taste like
mulberries.

EPIDE’NDRUM. — Orchidiicee. —
Parasitic plants, which should be
grown in a damp stove or orchideous
house, on pieces of wood hung up
from the rafters for that purpose.
The roots must be wrapped in damp
moss and tied on the wood, into
which they will soon penetrate.
These plants may also be grown in
baskets, or cocoa-nuts filled with
moss, and hung up in the same
manner.
in the shade, and kept very moist
and hot.

Eric, Evictcee. The
Ground Laurel.—A little creeping
plant, with white flowers, suitable
for rock-work. It should be grown
in sandy peat, and never suffered to

They require to be grown |

ERANTHIS.

10

7 ERICA.

become too dry. There is a pink-
flowered variety, which was raised
by the late Mr. Milne, of Stoke
Newington.

EPpiLo‘s1uM. — Onagrdacee —The
French Willow-Herb.—A tall showy
perennial, with stoloniferous roots,
only suited to a shrubbery. It re-
quires no care in its culture ; the
only difficulty being to prevent its
overpowering everything else, when
it is once planted in any situation not
exceedingly dry. There are several
wild species of Epilobium common
in Britain, one of which is called by
the odd name of Codlings-and-Cream.
E. alpinum is a pretty little plant for
rock-work.

EpPipHy’LLUM.—Cactacec. -- One
of the genera formed out of the
Linnean genus Cdctus, by Mr. Ha-
worth, and comprising those Cacti
that produce their flowers on their
leaves. The genus Lpiphyllum is,
however, now givenup, andthe plants
in it are called Céreus by botanists.
EL. truncatum, and L, speciosum, two
of the best known species of this
division of Cacti, are, however, still
generally called by their original
namesof Cdctustruncdata, and Cactus
speciosa. Both species are abundant
flowerers, and require only greenhouse
heat. Cdctus truncata will grow
grafted on almost any other species,
and it will bear other species grafted
on it. For culture, see Cr‘rEvs,

ErA’NTHEMUM.—A canthaceee.—
Stove shrubs with very ornamental
flowers, which in some of the species
are of a bright blue, in others purple,
as in £&. montanum, and in others
white, asin £. albiflorum.

Era’ytuHis. — Ranunculacee. —
The modern botanic name of the
Winier Aconite. The Linnean name
ofthis plant was Helléborushyemalis.
This plant has a creeping under-
ground fleshy stem, which sends up
shoots from every bud ; and when it

is wished to propagate it by division,
the young plants or suckers must
be taken up with a portion of this
tuberous underground stem attached,
or they will not grow; and when
they are planted, it should be in
rather a dry, open situation, and they
should not be too much watered, or
the wounded tuberous part willdecay.
The plantmay also be propagated by
seeds, which it ripens abundantly,
but which do not flower till the
second year. When the plant is to
be divided, it should be done in
June, or as soon as the leaves have
withered, as otherwise the plant will
wither from the decay of the tuberous
part. When once established, the
Winter Aconite spreads rapidly, and
generally appears to change its posi-
tion every year, as the flowers come
up singly, and often far apart from
each other, springing from buds in
the underground stem, which in some
situations grows to a great length, and
produces few buds, when of course
the flowers come up far apart; while
in warm, open, and dry places, the
tuberous stem being short and full of
buds, the flowers appear in a cluster.
EreEmurus. — Aspholodew. — A
very handsome perennial plant, which
produces its long racemes of sulphur-
coloured flowers, with large bright
orange anthers, in the open air in
June. It isa native of Siberia.

_ Eri'ca.—Fricacee.—tThe differ-
ent species of Heaths are among the
most beautiful of our greenhouse
plants, and are much more easily
grown than is generally supposed.
The principal cause of so many
failures is, first, that Heaths are
generally potted much too low, and
thus the collar of the plant is fre-
quently rotted ; secondly, that suffi-
cient attention is not paid to watering,
as sometimes they are allowed to be
sodden with moisture, from the pots
being improperly drained, and at

a NS

ERICA.

108

ERICA.

otherskeptmuchtoo dry, byirregular | delicate a nature to bear the respira-

or imperfect watering ; and, thirdly,
that they are often grown on a stone
shelf in a greenhouse, or in a balcony
during the summer, when a powerful
sun striking on the pot is sure to
scorch their delicate fibrous roots, or,
in the winter, shut up among other
plants, andscarcely allowed any airat
all ; in either of which cases they are
sure to perish. These being the
principal reasons why Heaths do not
generally succeed, it is now necessary
to describe whatis considered the best
method of cultivatingthem. The soil
most suitable to Heaths is a mixture
of three parts of well-sifted peat to
one of white or silver-sand, tho-
roughly mixed ; and if the plants are
very large asmall portion of loam may
sometimes be added, though this is
not often required. In potting
Heaths, great attention must be paid
to the drainage ; and, in order to
render it as perfect as possible, two
or three moderate-sized potsherds
should be put over the hole in the
bottom of the pot; after which it
should be filled about a quarter full
with very small pieces of broken
tiles; and over this there should be
a thin layer of unsifted peat. Above
the unsifted peat should be a layer of
prepared peat and sand, and on this
the roots of the Heath should be
placed, and more of the mixture of
peat and sand shaken in among
them ; the plants being so placed,
that the collar may be above the
level of the mould in the pot, when
sufficiently full. The compost should
be pressed tightly into the pot; but
a little space should he left between
it and the brim, to hold water; and
as soon as the potting is finished, the
plant should be set aside in the shade,
or in a cold frame.

Heaths, to be well-grown, should
always be kept in a frame, or a house,

by themselves ; as they are of too | as it is ripe.

tion from other plants, and they also
require a very different treatment.
During summer, when in a frame,
they should be allowed all the air
that can possibly be given to them,
and they should befrequently watered
overhead, as the gardeners call it,
when the sun is not upon them; as
the winter comes on, less air should
be given, and they should then never
be watered over their tops; but still
in fine weather a little air may be
allowed to them, even during a slight
frost. It may indeed be taken as a
proverb, that Heaths like to feel the
wind between every leaf. When
grown in greenhouses, Heaths need
not be watered overhead; but great
care must be taken that the roots
never get dried up, for if they do they
seldom recover ; indeed, these plants
ought never to be put in greenhouses
or rooms, except during the season of
flowering. When they are kept in
rooms or on balconies, their pots
should each be plunged in another
pot somewhat larger, and the space
between the two filled with moss
lightly put in, which should be kept
moist, but not too wet. In very
frosty weather, the only protection
necessary for heaths kept in pits, is
a double mat thrown over the glass
of the frame, and sufiered to remain
there till the frost is gone away ; for
should the frost affect the plants, and
they should be afterwards exposed to
the sun and air, they become what is
called scorched, and they will either
die, or lose the greater part of their
leaves.

Heaths are raised from seeds,
cuttings, or layers, but most fre-
quently from cuttings, full details
for making which have been already
given.—(SeeCurrines.) Heath seed
should be sown, if foreign, as soon
as it arrives; and if native, as soon
For sowing the seed,

ee

———

ERIOPHORUM.

109

ERYSIMUM.

shallow pots or pans should be pre- | 'Cotton Grass.—The very curious

pared in the same manner as was
described for potting, but with rather
more sand; and the seed should be
mixed with alittle sand, and scattered
over the surface of the mould; after
which it may be watered, and set on
a greenhouse shelf, where it may
remain till the young plants are
about an inch high, when they
should be carefully taken up, and
set round the edges of pots, about
three in a thumb-pot, and then
replaced on the shelf till they have
grown sufficiently large to be potted
off singly into small pots ; when they
should be allowed to remain a few
days in the house till they are well
rooted; after which they may be
placed in the frame with the large
plants. Heaths in pots should never
have saucers to stand in, and they
should be watered twice a day in
summer, and once in winter.

Err nvus.— Scrophulérine.—Only
two species are known, one of which
is a beautiful little plant with purple
flowers, which grows naturally on
old walls, and is admirably adapted
for rock-work, as it continues flower-
ing profusely all the summer. It is
increased by seeds, or by dividing the
roots ; and it requires scarcely any
soil to grow in, but the most suitable
is peat, mixed with pounded bricks
or lime-rubbish.

ErRIoBo'TRYA.—Rosdcee.—E. ya-
pénica, formerly called Méspilus
japonica, the Loquat-tree of the Kast
Indies, is a very handsome tree for
planting in a conservatory for its
noble leaves. It bears clusters of
white flowers and yellow fruit. In
warm situations it will stand in the
open air, but it requires protection
from severe frosts. It should be
grown in a rich loamy soil, and is
generally propagated by grafting on
the common Hawthorn.

Erio’pHoRUM. — Cyperdcee. —

| plants contained in this genus are
natives of Great Britain. ‘The com-

‘monest species, /. angustifolium, is
| by far the handsomest, and the tufts

of long snow-white silky hairs, which
envelope the seed, are so extremely
ornamental, that the plant might be
introduced advantageously in any
marshy situation, or on the edge of a
pond, &c., as all the species will only
grow in moist places.

Erioste‘Mon. — Rutdcee. — E.
buxifolium is a very handsome New
Holland shrub, which requires a
greenhouse in this country, and pro-
duces its large showy flowers early
inspring. The leaves resemble those
of the Box Tree, and the flowers are
white, tinged with pink. JZ, nerii-
foliwm is a very handsome species of
this genus. A plant of it, exhibited
at one of the meetings of the Horti-
cultural Society of London, ‘‘formed
a dense pyramid nearly five feet high,
profusely clothed with white starry
blossoms to the very pot.”

Ero'DIuM. —Geranidceee. — The
Wild Geranium.—The genus Eré-
dium differs from Geranium and
Pelargonium in the shape of its seed-
vessel.
resembles the head and beak of a bird;

In all the three the seed-pod |

in Geranium it resembles a crane’s |

bill, in Pelargonium it isastork’s bill,

and in Erédium a heron’s bill. Be- |

sides these, the late Mr.

Sweet |

divided the Geranidcee into a great —

many genera, the names of which it
is useless to state here, as they are
now seldom used. The Erddiums are
dwarf annuals, and perennials, with
pretty flowers, only suitable for rock-
work. The tender kindsare grown in
& mixture of sandy loam and peat,
and the hardy ones in any common
garden-soil ; and they are increased
by seeds, division of the roots, and
cuttings.—See Grra'NIUM.
Ery’simuM.—Crucifere@.—Hedge

ESCALLONIA. 110 EUONYMUS.

Mustard.—Most of the kinds are| »EscuscHo’L1z1a.—Papaveracee.
weedy plants, generally biennials, ,—Annual plants with showy flowers,
seldom grown in British gardens. | natives of California, on which ac-
One species, L. Perowskianum, an | count, and from the flowers resem-
annual, with dark orange flowers, in- | bling in shape those of the Poppy, the
troduced, in 1838, has become popular | first species introduced was called the
from its beauty. L£. ibéricum, Dec. | Californian Poppy. Theseedsshould
(Cheirdnuthus armentacus, Botanical | be sown in the open border as soon as
Magazine), a perennial introduced in | they are ripe, as, if the sowing be de-
1803, somewhat resembles #. Perow- | layedtillspring, the plantsfrequently
skianum in appearance, except that | do not flower till the second year.

its flowers are yellow instead of | Sometimes they will live and flower |

orange. These plants grow best in two, or even three years in succession,
sandy peat mixed with a little loam; | though this is very rarely the case.

and they are quite hardy.

ERYTHRZ’A. — Gentiandcece, —
The Lesser Centaury.—Little pink-
flowered plants, mostly annuals, suit-
ablefor rock-work. The seedsshould
be sown in autumn in the open bor-
der, and the plants removed in
patches, with earth attached, to the
rock-work in spring.

ERYTHRI'NA. — Leguinindse. —
The Coral Tree Stove and greenhouse
shrubs, with splendid coral-coloured
flowers. £.laurifoliaand EL. Crista
gdli, will grow in the open air, and
they will flower magnificently in a
warm sunny border, if sheltered by a
south wall. The soil should be a
sandy loam, or loam and peat ; and
they are propagated by cuttings of
the young wood struck in sand under
a glass, but without bottom-heat.

Erytsro'nium. — Tulipadcee. —
See Doe’s-rooru VioLeEr.

EscaLo'nta.—Escalloniiicee.—
Beautiful shrubs, natives of South
America, which are nearly hardy in
the climate of London. They grow
best in peaty soil, or in very sandy
loam. #. rubra is generally trained
against a wall, but L. montevidénsis,
which produces large clusters of white
flowers, is grown as a bush. Both
kinds require protection from severe
frosts. There are several other kinds,
but only the two mentioned are in
general cultivation in British gardens.

ErioLaTED.—This termisapplied |

to plants which have been blanched,
and drawn up with weak and slender

stems; by being kept too farfromthe |

light, and not allowed a sufficient
quantity of fresh air.
Evcaty’ptus. — Myrtacee. —
Australian trees of enormous size,
some species of which are grown in
Englandasgreenhouseshrubs. They
should be grown in loam and peat,
and are propagated by cuttings,
which are very difficult to strike.
EvcHARI'DIUM. — Onagracee.—
A little annual, a native of California,
nearly allied to the Clarkias. It was
introduced in 1836, but as it does
not seed freely it is as yet rare. It
should be grown in loam and peat.
EvDENDRO'BIUM. — Orchidacee.
—A new name given to some of the
handsomest kinds of Dendrobium,
including D. chrysdnthemum, D.
macrophyllum, and D. Pierardi.
EvecE'nia. — Myrtacee. — The
Rose Apple. — Handsome shrubs,
grown as fruit trees in the East
Indies, which produce their splendid
flowers freely in Britishstoves. They
should be grown in a mixture of two-
thirds sandy loam and one-third peat,
and are propagated by cuttings of the
ripe wood, which strike freely.
Evo’/nymus.—Celastrinee.—The
Spindle Tree. —The common British
species is well known for its curious

EUTOCA.

nig

EVERGREENS.

and very ornamental fruit ; but the
American kind, £. latifolius, is
much handsomer, both in fruit and
foliage. It is a very valuable shrub
for asmall garden ; asit will continue
to thrive, and to produce abundance
of flowers and fruit every year, for
many years in succession, without in-
creasing much in size, or requiring
to be cut in. It is also ornamental
in early spring, from the peculiar
form of its buds and the richness of
its dark red bracteas. All the kinds
will grow in any common garden-soil,
and they are increased by seeds or
cuttings.

Eupno’rsta. -—Luphorbiacee.—
Some of the kinds are British weeds,
such as the Spurge Caper ; but other
kinds are thorny shrubs, requiring
the heat of a stove in Britain, and
producing flowers of a most brilliant
scarlet. The most beautiful kind is
E. filgens Karwinski, 2. Jacqui-
niceflora Hort., which was introduced
in 1836, by Mr. Rauch. The best
plants are raised from seed ; but cut-
tings may be struck by plunging them
into the bark bed, and not covering
them with a glass. The flowering

| plants should be grown in loam

mixed with lime rubbish, or pounded
brick.

Evupromatia. — Anondcee. — A
very remarkable Australian low
shrub with yellow flowers.
plant is a very interesting one
to a botanist, on account of the
curious construction of its flowers,

which were produced in this country |

in the Botanic gardens, Regent’s
Park, in March 1856.

Evura’x1a.— Legumindse.—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with yellow and
orange pea-flowers, which in England
requireagreenhouse. They shouldbe
grown in light peaty soil, and receive
the general treatment of Australian
shrubs. There are only two species.

and somewhat coarse-growing an-
nuals and perennials, which require
the usual treatment of similar plants.
(See AnnuALS and PERENNIALS.)
They will grow in any common gar-
den-soil, and the annuals should be
sown in March or April, as, though
they are natives of California, they
are not injured by heat.

Eventne Primrose.—See ino-
THERA.

EVERGREENS. —No garden should
be without its due proportion of ever-

| greens ; and these plants are still

| more essential in small gardens than
/in large ones. Their advantages are,

that they afford a screen to secure

| privacy in winter as well as summer ;

that they preserve an appearance of

verdure at all seasons ; and that they
do not disfigure the walks by falling
leaves, which, where there is no regu-
lar gardener, render it very difficult
to keep a place neat. They are also
very useful in affording a rich back-
ground to those ornamental treesand
shrubs which produce their flowers
before their leaves; such as the
double-blossomed Peach, the Almond,
the snowy Méspilus, and Magnolia
conspicua. It is the want of ever-
greens that gives the gardens in the
neighbourhood of Paris, and most of
the other continental cities, such an

| air of meagrenessand poverty. But
This |

it cannot there be remedied, as few
evergreens will resist thecold of their
winters. This may appear strange
to those who have experienced the
heat of the continental summers ;
but the fact is, that their winters are
as much colder than ours as their
summers are warmer, and thus the
average heat of the year is nearly the
same. Alternate seasons of great
heat and cold are favourable to deci-
duous plants, as the heat ripens their
wood, and the cold gives them a
season of complete repose when they

Ev‘roca. — Boraginew. — Hardy | have lost their leaves ; but a moist

FABIANA. 112 FENCES.

temperate climate like that of Bri- | introduced in 1839; and, as Dr.
tain, is more suitable to evergreens, | Lindley observes in the Botanical
which continue in a growing state | Register, ‘‘it forms a small bright

| nearly all the year. | green shrub, with the habit of a

In street gardens, besidesthe ever- | Tamarisk, or rather of a Thuja, and

_ green trees and shrubs, itis advisable | when in flower is loaded with snow-

to select a few evergreen herbaceous | white blossoms resembling those of
plants, such as Pinks and Carnations, | some Heath.” It is very nearly
Walifiowers, &c., togivean agreeable | hardy, and will live and flower
effect to the beds during winter, | abundantly in the open air, on a

when they are devoid of flowers. south wall, near London.
EVERGREEN THORN.—The Pyra-| Fan Patm.—See Dwarr Fan
cantha.—See Crarz'evs. PALM.

EveERLastinc. — See GnapHa’-| FEATHER GRASS.—Sfipa pennata.
Lium and HELicury'sum. —A beautiful kind of grass, well
EVERLASTING Pea,—See La’tuy- | worth growing to form tufts in flower
RUS. borders, from its feathery lightness
E’xocEns. --Dicotyledonousplants. | and graceful habit of growth. It
The exogenous plants have received | should be grown in light rich soil;

_ their name because the new wood of | and it is propagated by seeds, or by
_ their trees and shrubs is deposited on | dividing the roots.
_ the outside of the old wood, one layer Fe’p1a.— Valerianee.—Horns.—

being deposited every year. Thusthe | F. cornucdpie, formerly considered
age of a tree may be counted by the | to belong to the genus Valeriana,
number of its layers, shown by its| is a coarse-growing, weedy-looking

_ wood when the trunk is cut down. | plant, with pink flowers and curious

The soil in which the tree was grown, | seed-pods, shaped like the figures we

_ and even the weather in the different | see of the Cornucopia, or Horn of

years, may be guessed in the same| Plenty. It is an annual, and the
manner ; as the layers of trees grown | seeds only require sowing in the open

_ inrich valleys are much thicker than | border.
_ those of trees grown in poor soilson| Fences for flower gardens and

mountains ; and the layers deposited | shrubberies, are either such as are
in damp cold summers are thicker | intended to be invisible, or, more pro-
than those of dry warm seasons. | perly, not acknowledged,—such as
When trees have grown in a wood, | barriersof wire, or lightironrods, and
with one side of the trunk fully | sunk fences; or such as are intended
exposed to the sun, and the other | to be acknowledged, and to form part
shaded by the other trees, a differ- | of the landscape,—such as architec-
ence is very perceptible in the layers. | tural parapets and hedges. Wire
Exogenous trees have medullary rays | fences are commonly formed of light

| in their wood, and leaves with reti- | iron posts or stakes, through holes in

culated veins. All the forest-trees | which are stretched stout wires or
of Britain, and other temperate leases iron rods ; or they are formed
climates, belong to this class. | of light iron hurdles, —that is, sepa-
‘rate iron-frames, which are placed

end to end, and can be removed at

ABIA'NA.—Solanaceew.—F.im- | pleasure. In forming wire fences of
bricata is a very beautiful plant, | stakes and iron wires, there is no

It is a native of Chili, whence it was | difficulty when the line of direction

er re a a a

is perfectly straight, or consists of a
number of straight lines joined to-

On a larger scale the Holly makes an
excellent hedge, and the standards

gether; but when the direction is| may be of the variegated kinds of

curvilinear, some attention is requi-
site to fix the posts in such a manner
as to permit the wires which pass
through holes in them to be drawn
quite tight. To admitof this being
done, each post must be fixed into a
piece of wood or stone, and supported
by a brace on the concave side of the
curve ; and both the block and the
brace must be buried so far under the

| Holly. For a mixed hedge of ever-
greens and deciduous flowering
shrubs, the Laurustinus, the Sweet-
Brier,
Cydonia japénica, with similar
shrubs, may be used, with the lower

kinds of American Thorns (Crat‘e- |
gus), or the Chinese Crab (Pyrus |

| spectabrlis), as standards. A very
excellent flower-garden hedge may be

the Pyracfntha, and the |

soil as not to be seen. Iron, or wire | formed by training the Ivy, or any

hurdles, are too well known to re- | climbing plant, over a slight wire |
| fence or trellis (fig. 14); and its uni- |
dles or fences, composed of posts and | formity may be broken, if it is very |

quire description. When either hur- |

rods of wire, are intended to keep out |

hares and rabbits, the lower parts of
them, to the height of about two feet,
require finer wires to be fixed to
them, in an upright direction, at
about three inches apart.

Architectural fences are used in
small gardens, close to the house ;
and they should generally be low
walls, of open work, in the style of
the architecture of the building; and
these walls may have piers at regular
distances, terminating in vases, or
other architectural ornaments, pro-
vided these are in harmony with the
house. These walls, and indeed all
other architectural. fences, should be
varied with shrubby plants planted
against them, so as to harmonise
them with the plants in the beds and
borders within.

Hedges may either be of ever-
greens, neatly cut, so as to form
living walls with standard plants at
regular distances to imitate architec-
tural piers; or they may be formed
of a mixture of different kinds of
flowermg shrubs with evergreen
standard low trees at regular dis-
tances. No plant makes a finer
flower-garden hedge than the Box, the
standards in which may be formed of
Cypresses, Junipers, or Arbor Vite.

FIG. 14.—WIRE FENCE.

long, by standards, at regular dis-
tances, either of Ivy trained on iron
posts with umbrella tops, or of any
kind of low deciduous or evergreen
trees. The variegated species of Ivy,
the Ampelépsis, and a number of
otherclimbing shrubs, ligneous or her-
baceous, also make beautiful hedges
for shelter or separation in flower-
gardens. The Arbor Vite and com-
mon Laurel, alternating with the
variegated variety, the narrow-leaved
variety, and the Portugal Laurel, also
make excellent flower-garden fences ;
as do the evergreen and variegated

I

| FENCES. 113 FENCES.

i

| feet.

FERRARIA.

114

FITNESS.

kinds of Privet, the variegated Holly,
and the Aticuba. In short, there is
scarcely any ornamental shrub that
will not form a very suitable fence
for a flower-garden, when carefully
trained ; and wire fences, in the
summer season, may be covered with
creeping or climbing annuals: such
as the Nasturtium, the Convolvulus,
&e., or even the tall-growing Salvias,
Petunias, Sweet-Peas, and Pelargo-
niums. <A very pretty fence of this
kind may be formed by training the
common Mignonette over a wire

| trellis ; as it is well known that the

Mignonette, if sown in autumn and
kept during the winter in a green-
house, may be trained the following
season to the height of three or four
Honeysuckles also make de-
lightful fences.

FENNEL FLOWER.—See Nige’LIA,

FERNS are very ornamental in
shrubberies, from their large and
handsome leaves, and the curious
manner in which these unroll when
the plants first appearinspring. The
most curious are the heart-shaped
Mexican ferns, (See ALLOsURUS and
Nortsa (iva). Some of the other
exotic Ferns, are very handsome, and
hothouses have, in many cases, been
set entirely apart for them. One of
the most interesting of these is at the
seat of W. Borrer, Esq., at Henfield,
Sussex ; the interior of which is for-
med into caves of freestone, in the
crevices between which the ferns
grow. Ferns disposed inthis manner
would form a very elegant ornament
for a grotto. Exotic Ferns are also
the best plants for growing in the
air-tight glass plant-cases, now be-
coming so fashionable in large draw-
ing-rooms. See Puanr-Caszs.

Frrra‘ria. — Lridee. — Cape
tuberous-rooted plants with very
curious flowers, and requiring the
usual culture of similar plants.—See
Carr Buss.

FEVERFEW.—See Pyre‘tHRUM.

Fica‘rta.—Ranunculacee.—The
lesser Celandine, or Pilewort.—A
British perennial, with bright yellow
flowers, differmg from those of the
common Crowfoot in their petals
being pointed. It likes a moist
shady situation, and will thrive
under the drip of trees.

Fi'cus Eta’stica.—The Indian
Rubber tree.—A kind of Fig-tree,
which yields the East Indian Caout-
chouc ; that used principally in
making the waterproof clothing is,
however, from Brazil, and is pro-
duced by Siphonia Cahtichu, one of
the Euphorbiacez. In both cases the
trunk of the tree is wounded, and
there flows from the wound a thick
milky juice, which, when hardened by
exposure to the air, becomes the
Indian rubber. J. eldstica is a fa-
vourite stove-shrub in England, from
its large size and curious leathery
leaves; but it very seldom produces
either flowers or fruit; and, when it
does, they have no beauty. The
plants should be grownin sandy loam,
and they strike readily from cuttings.

Fic MaricoLD.—See MEsemBry-
A/NTHEMUM.

Fiawort.—Scrophularia verna-
lis.—A British plant with yellow
flowers, growing in moist places.

Fi’Lices.—One of the natural
orders which includesall the different
genera of Ferns.

FITNESS in a garden, as in every
thing else, is of the greatest import-
ance in producing a good effect. By
this term is meant the adaptation of
plants to the situations fitting for
them : for example, tall straggling
growing plants, which havea very fine
effect in a shrubbery when backed by
evergreen shrubs taller than them-
selves, would entirely destroy the
beauty of a small garden, laid out in
regular beds. In the like manner,

| small plants, however beautiful they

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

115

FLOWER-BASKETS.

may be, are lost among others more
robust growing. Toavoid these in-
congruities, the best plan is first to as-
certain, if possible, the habit of growth
and general appearance of every plant
before introducing it into a flower-
garden; and then carefully to consider
the situation in which it is likely to
look best. A little care and attention
in this respect, with common plants,
will have more effect in producing a
beautiful flower-garden, than large
sums laid out in the purchase of
showy plants without it.

Firz-Roy’a. — Conifere. — F.
patagénica is a noble hardy ever-
green tree, with gracefully drooping
foliage, introduced from Patagonia in
1850. When the plant is young the
leaves have aglaucoushue; but when
old they become of a deep green, and
take somewhat of a triangular form.

FrLaG-FLoWER, or Fleur-de-Luce.
—English names for the Iris.

Frax.—See Lry'vm.

Fiorists’ FLowers are those
which it has been found may be
grown to an extraordinary size and
degree of perfection by taking great
pains with their culture. The Dutch
were the first who practised this art
with their Hyacinthsand Tulips; but

_ their example has been followed by

the florists of other countries, who, as
they cultivate their flowers in the
hope of winning prizes with them at
flower-shows, may be said to use
them as instruments for gambling.
All the varieties of florists’ flowers
arenamed, and every year many new
kinds are raised, which are eagerly
sought for, and sell for enormous
prices. It is thus desirable that all
florists’ flowers should either hybri-
dise freely, or vary very much from
seed. The principal florists’ flowers
are the Hyacinth and Tulip, the
Dahlia, the Auricula, the Polyanthus,
the Carnation, and the Pink; but to
these may be added the Ranunculus,

and the Anemone, and, of late years,
the Geranium or Pelargoniums, the
Heartseases, the Ca!ceolarias, and the
Chrysanthemums. Of all the kinds,
the Dahlia is undoubtedly that
respecting which there is most gam-
bling and most rivalry. It may be
observed, that the rules by which
florists decide as to the merits of their
respective flowers do not depend on
any particular beauty of colour, and
sometimes not even on form ; but on
certain arbitrary criteria which they
have settled among themselves ; as,
for example, no Auricula or Poly-
anthus is admired that is what is
called pin-eyed, that is, if the style
projects beyond the stamens; and a
perfect Dahlia should not show any
green in the centre. Thus, as it
requires to be a florist to know the
full merits of florists’ flowers, they
are of comparatively little interest to
amateurs.

Fro’s Apo'nIs.—See Apo'is.

FLOWER Ferncre.—See COsAlL-
PI'NIA.

FLOWER-BASKETS. —These may
be constructed in many different
ways; some being intended to appear
as if set on the ground, and others to

FIG. 15.—WIRE FLOWER-BASKET.

be raised on pedestals. The former
are generally constructed with curved
pieces of iron furnished with sharp
spikes for entering the ground, like
the prongs of a fork; and these are
placed so as to form a circle, with
wires for climbing plants extended
across it, like the handles of a basket.
(See jig. 15.) The plants must be

2

FLOWER BASKETS. 116 FLOWER-GARDENS.

trained up a wire frame in the centre, | the vessel. Captain Mangles, whose
and thence brought down the wires to | taste in ornamental gardening is well
the curved pieces of iron forming the | known, adopts the baskets jigs. 16
border of the basket. The basket | and 17, for suspending from the roof
may be filled up with flowers or not, | of his greenhouse. The baskets are

FIG. 16.—CHINA FLOWER-BASKET.

at pleasure. Other receptacles for
flowers may be wicker baskeis, with
the interstices stuffed with moss; or
the jars in which grapes have been
sent over ; but when these last are
used, or any other kind of vessel

which is very deep in proportion to |

its breadth, the lower part should be
filled with brickbats, pieces of free-
stone, and other similar materials, to
within about a foot or six inches of
the top. In all cases where flowers
are grown in baskets and boxes, they
should stand on a lawn, and the
most luxuriant-growing kindsshould
be chosen, to hang down the sides of

made of wire, with pots of earthen-
| ware or china inside. These baskets
are alike suitable for the Creepers,

FIG. 17. —FLOWER-BASKET.

|
| Céreus, Moneywort, and other com-
_mon plants which produce their
flowers on hanging stems, as for
Epiphytes and orchideous plants.
When the baskets are used for
Epiphytes, the wire should generally
| be filled with moss, instead of having
| a pot placed in it.
| Frowrr-GarpEnsembrace a sub-
| ject on which a volume might be
written without exhausting it ; but
| the present article will be con-
fined to a few general observations,
applicable in every case ; and toa
short notice of the different kinds of
flower-gardens which have been, or
are, in most general use.
All flower-gardens, to have a good
effect, ought to be symmetrical ; that

is, they ought to haveacentre, which |

shall appear decided and obvious at
first sight, and sides ; and all the
figures or compartments into which
the garden is laid out ought to be in

——— nnn

a,

: »
FLOWER-GARDENS.

Nt

FLOWER-GARDENS.

some way or other so connected with
the centre as not to be separable from
it, without injuring the general effect
of the garden. All the beds and
borders ought to have one general
character of form and outline ; that
is,either curved, straight, or composite
lines ought to prevail. The size of
the beds ought also never to differ to
such an extent as to give the idea of
large bedsand small ones beingmixed
together ; aud the surface of the
garden ought to be of the same
character throughout; that is, it
ought not to be curvilinear on one
side of the centre, and flat or angular
on the other. In planting flower-
gardens the same attention to unity
ought to be keptin view. One side
ought not to be planted with tall-
growing plants, and the other with
plants of low growth ; nor one part
with evergreens, whether ligneous or
herbaceous, and the other part with
annuals or bulbs. Flower-gardens
which are intended to be ornamental
all the year, ought to have a large
proportion of evergreen herbaceous
plants distributed regularly all over
them; such as Pinks, Sweet-williams,
Thrift, Saxifrages, intermixed with
some very low evergreen shrubs, such
as Heaths, Whortleberries, Thyme,
Gaulthéeria proctimbens,and a variety
of similar plants. Flower-gardens
which are intended to be chiefly
ornamental in spring, ought to be
rich in bulbs and early-flowering
shrubs ; such as the Mezereon,
Cydonia, or Pyrus japénica, Rho-
dodéndron dadricum atrovirens,
Erica herbacea, &e. Those that are
intended to be chiefly ornamental in
summer, should be rich in annuals ;
and those that are to be in perfection
in autumn, in Dahlias. Flower-
gardens ona large scale never look so
well as when the spaces between the
beds are of turf; but those ona small
scale may have the spaces between

the beds of gravel, and the beds
edged with box. It may be thought
by some that a flowering plant would
look better than box for the edgings
to the beds; but no effect is ever
produced without contrast : and as
the box is always green, and seldom
flowers, it forms a striking contrast
to beds of flowers in which the leaves
are nearly hidden by the blossoms.
Gravel walks with stone edgings do
not form a good contrast, as the
colours of the gravel and the stone
are too near that of the dry soil of
the beds.

All the different kinds of flower-
gardens may be reduced to the
following :—

The French garden, or parterre, is
formed of arabesques, or scroll-work,
or, as the French call it, embroidery
of box, with plain spaces of turf or
gravel, the turf prevailing. The bex
is kept low, and there are but very
few parts of the arabesque figures in
which flowers or shrubs can be intro-
duced. Those plants that are used,
are kept in regular shape by cutting
or clipping, and little regard is had to
flowers ; the beauty of these gardens
consisting in the figures of the ara-
besques being keptclear and distinct,
and in the pleasing effect produced on
the eye by masses of turf, in a country
where verdure is rare in the summer
season. These embroidered or ara-
besque gardens originated in Italy
and France, and they are better
adapted for warm climates than for
England : they are, indeed, chiefly
calculated for being seen from the
windows of the house, and not for
being walked in, like English flower-
gardens.

Theancient English fower-garden
is formed of beds, connected together
so as to form a regular or symmetrical
figure ; the beds being edged with
box, or sometimes with flowering

plants, and planted with herbaceous

FLOWER-GARDENS. 118 FLOWER-GARDENS.

flowers, Roses, and one or two other | be in the centre) being drier than
kinds of low flowering shrubs. The | those on the sides, they will grow
flowers in the beds are generally ‘with less vigour in dry seasons, and
mixed in such a manner that some | with too much vigour in moist
may show blossom every month | seasons, if they are too much ele-
during summer, and that some may vated ; so that the plants in the
retain their leaves during winter. | garden will never produce a uniform
This kind of garden should be sur- | surface throughout. Some beds in
rounded by a border of evergreen | flower-gardens of this description are
and deciduous shrubs, backed by low | entirely filled with Roses which are
trees ; and in the centre there should | often pegged down and kept low ;
be a sun-dial, a vase, a statue, or a | and other beds are filled with low
basin and fountain. evergreen shrubs, or with deciduous
Themodern English flower-garden | shrubs which have conspicuous
has the groundwork of turf, on which | flowers, such as Rhododendrons,
a system of beds is formed in sucha | Azaleas, &. For every garden of
manner astoconstitutea symmetrical | this kind there is, or ought to be, a
figure ; or, if on a very large scale, | basin of water, as well for effect, as
groupsof figures. The French flower- | for watering the plants ; and if the
garden andtheancient English garden | garden be ona large scale, there may
were chiefly calculated for being seen | be statues, vases, open and covered
from an elevated situation, so as to} seats, rustic baskets containing
show the whole at once; but the | plants, rock-work, and a variety of
modern English flower-garden is| other objects; but these require to
calculated to be walked through, | be introduced with great caution,
and seen by degrees. The beds are | and afford an excellent opportunity
generally of roundish or curvilinear | for a lady to exercise her taste in
figures, and they should never be of | their arrangement. In fact, these
figures with numerous narrow angles, | ornaments, if not well managed,
or projecting points ; because such | destroy the simplicity and elegance
parts can never be properly covered | of the garden, and do more harm
with plants,and therefore havealways | than good. When flower-gardens
a bad effect. These beds are some- | are close to the house and are in-
times planted with a mixture of | tended to be very highly kept, the
flowers alone, and sometimes with | beds are often surrounded with a
flowers and shrubs; but they are | low frame-work of wire or treliis-
more generally planted, each bed, | work, so as to give them the effect
with one kind of flower or one kind | of baskets of flowers ; and this has
of shrub, so as to produce masses of | sometimes a very good effect. Very
colour, or of shades of colour, which | often handles of wire-work are ap-
will harmonise with the masses in the | pended to these baskets, over which
other beds. The spaces between the | aretrained beautiful climbing plants,
beds should not be less than two feet, | such as the Maurandyas and Lophos-
for the convenience of walking and | permums, which flower abundantly
mowing ; and the surface of the beds | during the whole summer.
should never be much higher than| The architectural flower-garden,
that of the turf, because, if it is, the | or Italian garden, always adjoins the
beds will look like blotches on a | house, and is bordered and separated
lawn. Besides, the plants in the | from therest of the pleasure grounds
highest part of the bed (which should | by an architectural parapet or wall.

EE Ee
—— ———

ee

Po Be Bee oe in

eS ee eS eS

a. eee

FLOWER-POTS.

—See Fences. It consists of beds
symmetrically arranged, with gravel
or pavement between ; and the beds
are bordered or edged with stone.
In other respects, these gardens are
treated like the old English flower-
garden.

Terrace gardens are merely archi-
tectural-gardens, formed on plat-
forms adjoining the house, on one
or more levels, each level being sup-
ported by a terrace-wall; but as
they are chiefly adapted for man-
sions and places of considerable ex-
tent, where of course a regular
gardener must be kept, it does not
appear necessary to enlarge on them
here.

FLOWERING Fern. — Osménda
regalis.—A native of Britain, and
one of the largest and handsomest of
the British Ferns.

FLOWERING RaASPBERRY.—Ribus
odoratus.—A kind of ornamental
Bramble, well deserving of cultivation
in flower-gardens.

FLowerine Rusu. — Biatomus
umbellatus. — A British aquatic
plant, producing pink flowers. When
cultivated, the seeds should be sown
in loamy soil at the bottom of the
aquarium or pond where it is to
grow, or in a pot plunged to a con-
siderable depth; or it may be in-
creased by dividing the root.

FLOWER-Pots are commonly of a
red porous kind of earthenware,
which is much better for the plants
than the more ornamental kinds sold
in the china-shops; which, from
being glazed, and consequently not
porous, are apt to retain the moisture
so as to be injurious to the roots of
the plants. When china flower-pots
are used, they should have the
bottoms pierced with several holes
instead of one ; and they should be
particularly well drained, by being
filled to, at least, a quarter of their
depth with pieces of broken tiles.

119

FLOWER-STANDS.

Glazed pots are most suitable for
plants kept in balconies, where they
are much exposed to the air, as they
do not admit of transpiration from
the sides, and consequently the earth
contained in them does not so soon
become dry. There are ten sizes of
pots commonly in use in British
gardens, varying from two inches in
diameter to a foot and a half, which
are distinguished as sixties, forty-
eights, thirty-twos, &c., diminishing
twelve every time, from sixties up to
the largest size which are called twos ;
the same quantity of clay, called a
cast, being used for the two large pots
as for the sixty small ones. Besides
these there are thumb-pots, about an
inch in diameter and two inchesdeep,
of which there are eighty to a cast;
square stone pots for raising seeds,
or striking cuttings, and which are
seldom used but by nurserymen ; and
deep narrow pots for bulbous-rooted
plants. Many other shapeshave been
invented to suit particular purposes,
but the above are the only kinds in
constant and regular use.
FLOWER-STANDS are generally
constructed of wire painted green ;
and they are so contrived as to hold
a number of flower-pots. They are
of various shapes ; some being only
large enough to hold two or three
flower-pots, and others, as fig. 18,
consisting of several tiers, and hold-
ing almost as many plants as a small
greenhouse. They vary very much in
form, and may be designed to suit the
taste. Though elegant objects in a
garden or under a verandah, they
are not well adapted for keeping
plantsinahealthy state ; as, from the
pots in them being exposed to the
sun and air on all sides, the roots
are liable to become withered by the
alterations in temperature. It is
therefore generally advisable to keep
all the plants on flower-stands in
double pots, or to fill the interstices

cee sat late nil il lth CNN tN BO OCLC CLONE ALOE LOCO LALLA LLL LENT et

FORKING.

120

FOTHERGILLA.

between the pots in the stand with
moss. Generally speaking, the

FIG, 18.—WIRE FLOWER-STAND.

observations already given respect-
ing plants in balconies apply to
plants kept on flower-stands.

Fry HonrysucKLte.—The up-
right shrubby species of Honey-
suckle, such as Lonicera xylésteum,
the common Fly Honeysuckie, and
LL. talarica, the Tartarian Honey-
suckle.—See Lonr’cEra.

Fy Orcuis.—See O'pHRys.

Fortunz£'a.—Juglandacee.—F.
chinénsis isamostremarkableshrub,
nearly allied tothe Walnut-tree, with
a cone like that of Fir, which the
Chinese use to dye black. The genus
is named after Mr. Fortune, who
introduced the plant from China in
1849.

ForFil/cuLA.—See Earwic.

FoRGET-ME-NOT. — Myosdtis pa-
lastris.—A British plant worth cul-
tivating for its blue flowers, as well
as forits name. It isa marsh plant,
and should be grown near water.
M. sylvatica has smaller flowers,
and of a paler blue. The other
plants belonging to the genus
Myosotis are known by the popular
English names of Scorpion-grass and
Mouse-ear.

Forkine.—A mode of stirring
the ground so as to admit air and
moisture to the roots of plants, with-

out disturbing or injuring them,
which would be unavoidable if the
ground were dug.
Forsy'tTH14.—Oledcee.—F. viri-
dissima forms a compact deep-green
| bush, with balsamic leaves, which,
though smooth, are of a rich deep-
green, without the slightest lustre.
The flowers are of a bright yellow,
and are produced in great abundance
all over the tree. The plant isa
native of China, whence it was
introduced in 1847. It grows about
eight or ten feet high in the north
of China, and sheds its, leaves in
autumn,, * Suds tte, ff,
Formbiditta # Wenn dot
—American dwarf shrubs, with large
handsome leaves, and white fragrant
flowers. Theplants should be grown
| in a moist peaty soil, and they are
injured by very severe frosts. The
flowers appear before the leaves.
Fountayssare of two kinds; jets,
which rise up in a single tube of
water toa great height, and then fall
in mist or vapour; and drooping
fountains which are forced up through
a pipe, terminated by a kind of rose
pierced with holes, calledanadjutage,
which makes the water assume some
particular shape in descending. The
principle on which fountains are con-
structed is, that if a large quantity of
water be contained in a cistern, or
other reservoir, in any elevated situa-
tion, and pipes be contrived from it
to carry the water down totheground,
and along its surface, the water will
always attempt to rise to its own
level the moment it can find a vent.
When the orifice is large, this incli-
|nation is only shown in a kind of
bubbling upwards, as the ascent of
the water is prevented by the weight
'of the atmosphere above it; but
| where the orifice is smal], the column
| of water will force its way through
the air very nearly to the height of
the large body of water from which it |

eg

121

FOTHERGILLA. FRAMES.

descended. The height to which a | the water; andtheyshould be carried
jet of water will ascend, therefore, | deep enough into the ground to be
depends on the height which the | out of the reach of danger from frost.
cistern that is to supply it is above | They should also be so contrived as
the ground from which it is toascend ; | to present an uniform slope towards
and on the size of the orifice through | the point from which the jet is to
which it istoissue. Something must | issue, to prevent an accumulation of
however, beallowed for theresistance | air, or of sediment from the water in
which even a slender column of | thepipes, eitherof which will prevent
water meets with from the air ; and | the fountain from playing.

something is alsolost by the friction | | Drooping fountains do not require
of the water on the pipes it passes | the water to rise so high for themas

through, if the place from which the
fountain is to play should be far from
the supplying cistern. The time
which the fountain will play depends
on the quantity of water which the
cistern contains ; and the evenness
and proportion of the ascending
column of water on the diameter of
the conducting pipe, which should be
five times the diameter of the orifice.
To explain this, we will suppose a
cistern erected on a summer-house
twenty feet high, and that a fountain
is wished to play about a hundred
yards from it inaright line. Then,
if the diameter of the descending and
conducting pipes be two inches and a
half, and the diameter of the orifice
for the jet be half an inch, the water
will rise about eighteen feet high.
It must be observed, that the water
will rise to a less height in proportion
to the distance which the fountain is
from the cistern, the loss by friction
being about a foot for every hundred
yards ; and also that if the pipes take
any bend or curvature, the loss by
friction becomes greater. The time
that the fountain will continue to
play may be calculated by estimating
the quantity of water the cistern will
contain, as a jet of the size above
described will discharge about sixty-
five quarts a minute. The pipes
should be of lead, a quarter of an
inch thick ; as, if they are too slight,
they are very apt to burst and leak,

for jets ; and consequently the cistern
need not be somuchelevated. The
beauty of fountains of this kind
depends on the adjutages, which are
so contrived as to throw the water in
many different forms. For example,
some are intended to represent a
dome, and others a convolvulus, a
basket, a wheatsheaf, and a variety
of other devices. The water from
these fountains is generally received
in a shell, whence it forms a sort of
miniature cascade tothe basin below.
FouR-0 cLock-FLOWER.—A kind
of Marvel of Peru. See Mrnra'sitis.
FoxGLove.—See Dierra'us.
FramMeEs.—A frame in gardening
may be described asa bottomless box
with a cover of glass. The glass is
fixed in a sash of convenient dimen-
sions for being taken off and put on
again at pleasure, and the sides of the
box are of such a height as to admit
of the growth of plants of a foot or
more high. The back of the frame
or box is placed towards the north,
and is generally about the height of
two feet, and the frame being right-
angled, the side towards the south is
usually about one foot or fourteen
inches in height. The ordinary width
is from five feet to seven feet, and the
length may be three or more times
the width, divided into sashes of two
and a half feet or three feet broad.
The frame may be either set on a bed
of the common soil of the garden, in

from the great weight and pressure of | which case it is merely used for the

Se eeeeeeeeeeeeEeEeEeEEyE>E>EEEEEere—ee SSS

NR ee

FRAMES.

protection of plants from the weather,
or it may be placed on a bed of
fermenting manure, or other mate- |
rials that generate heat, for bringing |
forward seeds or tender plants.
Sometimes frames are placed against |
steeply sloping surfaces, or against
walls ; in which cases the object is
to bring forward plants trained on the
wall or sloping surface. Frames are
of the greatest use in gardening; not
only for protecting plants that are not
quite so hardy as those usually
planted in the open air, especially in
the winter season (such as Alpines,
and seedlings of hardy plants which
are somewhat tender when young),
but for germinating seeds. Frames
on beds of dung are commonly called
hotbeds, and are particularly useful
for raising young plants from seeds,
striking cuttings, and, in culinary
gardening, for growing crops of such
plants as Cucumbers, Melons, &c.
As the air confined within the frame
is apt to become suddenly heated by
bright sunshine, or by the fermenting
material when the open air is tem-
perate, care must be taken to prevent
the heat from being at any time
greater than the plants will bear ;
and this is effected by raising the
sashes, or lights, as they are techni-
cally called, by wooden wedges placed
between them and the frame, in the
hinder or higher part of the frame,
so as to admit of the escape of the
excessively heated air. Hence it is
desirable in all frames, where much
delicacy of temperature requiresto be
attended to, to keep a thermometer
within them ; and in general, when
the temperature within rises to 60°,
to lift up the sash and tointroduce the
wedge between it and the back of the
frame, so as to permit the heated air

to escape. Frames are sometimes |
also set upon low brick walls, which |
may either be raised above the soil, |
if it should be naturally moist ; or

122

FRENCH HONEYSUCKLE.

sunk into it, if it should be naturally

dry. In such cases, instead of a box
of boards, the box may be said to be
formed of brick or stone, on the top
of which is placed a framing of wood
to receive the sashes. Such frames,
or cold-pits, as they are called, are
used to preserve half-hardy and
greenhouse plants during the winter.
All frames that are used in winter or
spring should be covered during the
night, especially when the weather is
cold, to retain the heat generated by
the sun, or the fermenting material,
during the day. This covering is
generally of bast-mats laid on the
glasssashes; but it is rendered much
more effective when the matsare kept
an inch or two apart from the sashes,
soas toretain between themastratum
of air, which, from its non-conducting
power, greatly lessens the escape of
heat through the mats. As mats
are apt to absorb the rain instead
of conducting it off, coverings of
thatch formed of regularly drawn
wheat-straw or reeds are considered
preferable ; though such roofings are
scarcely worth attending toina small
garden, where there is perhaps only
one frame. The best covering of all
is composed of boarded shutters,
placed a few inches distant from the
frame, and this species of shelter is
at once neatand durable, and caleu-

lated to retain a stratum of air above |
the glass, while it effectually throws _

off the rain.

Franct'scea. — Scrophularine.
—Ornamental stove shrubs, gene-
rally with large dark purple flowers.

Franco‘a.— Francoacee or Ga-
lacinee —Handsome plants, most of
which are nearly hardy, and may be
treated either as annuals or peren-
nials,and may be always raised from
seed.

FRAXINE’LLA.—See Dicta/’Mnvs.

FRENCH HONEYSUCKLE. — See
Hepy’sAaRUM.

}
/

FROST. 123 FROST.

FRENCH MaricoLtp.—See Tace'- the root-stock, neck, or collar, be so

TES. covered. The branches and upper
FRINGE-TREE. —See Cuiona’n- | part of the stem, if left naked, may
THUS. ‘indeed be destroyed ; but if the
FRITILLA‘RIA. — Tulipdcee. — ‘collar and the ground for two or

Hardy bulbous-rooted plants, which | three feet around it be thus pro-

will thrive in any common garden | tected, the life of the plant will be
soil; but which do best in sandy | preserved, and the next spring, if the
loam. There are several species. plant be cut down to the ground, it
They are increased by offsets ; and will spring up again from the collar.

they may remain several years inthe Ingeneral, theeasiest ligneous plants |

ground without taking up, and with- | to protect are those which throw up
out receiving any injury. suckers; and the most difficult those

FRITILLARY.—See FRiTILuA‘R1A. | which seldom shoot from the root

Frocsit.—Hydrécharis mérsus- | or stool, such as the pine and fir
rane.—A very graceful British | tribe. The plants easiest to protect
aquatic, with white flowers. are those which are placed against

FRost is injurious to plants in pro-| walls: because the branches can be
portion to their natural tenderness, | saved from the perpendicular cold by
and to their succulency, whether in- | a projecting coping, and the roots by
duced by art, by culture, or the litter, leaves, rotten tan, &c. What
season, or the accidental or natural | are called Alpine plants, which in
moisture of the soil. Hence, to| their native country are covered
protect plants from frost, the first | during winter with snow, are best
step is the thorough drainage of the | protected by being kept in pots, and
subsoil ; and the next, the use of a | placed in what is called a cold frame:
soil composed of materials which will | that is, a box covered with glass,
readily permit the escape of water, | placed on the common soil of the
and which, of course, is always| garden, and consequently without
comparatively dry. On such a soil | hottom-heat, but covered in severe
if a frame covered with glass sashes | weather with mats, thatch, or boards.
be placed, and covered with mats, | Planting herbaceous plants and low
thatch, or boards during severe | shrubsinraised masses of soil covered
nights, all half-hardy plants will be with stone, technically called rock-
completely protected. But thereare work, is also a good means of pre-
a great many plants in beds, and | serving plants which are not quite
border s, and against walls, which | _hardy ; because the mass of soil
cannot be conveniently protected by | containing the roots is thus always
those means ; and the roots or lower | more or lessdry. One of the greatest
parts of the stems of plants thus | enjoyments in gardening consists in
situated may be covered with leaves, | growingtheplants of warmer climates
straw, litter, rotten tan, or any other | than our own in the open air ; this,
dry non-conducting material which in the climate of Britain, is not so
will retain air, and consequently | much to be effected by communi-
prevent the escape of heat, and yet cating artificial heat in the winter
throw off water. In general all season, as by protecting them from
herbaceous plants may be entirely frostand moisture. Ifall gardening
covered during winter with such kind | were reduced to the mere growth of
of materials ; and all ligneous plants plants which were quite hardy, theart
will be saved from being killed, if would lose halfits interest. The nice

| mental of our hardy exotics.

FUCHSIA.

124

FUCHSIA,

point in this, as in many other cases, | following kinds are the best for
consists in overcoming difficulties ; | growing in the open air, /. globosa,

and the pleasure will be great in
proportion as these difficulties appear
at first sight to be insurmountable.

Fo’cusia. — Onagracee. — The
Fuchsias being all natives of South
America, have till lately been gene-
rally treated as greenhouse plants, but
the greater number are now consi-
dered to be among the more orna-
They

' grow freely in the open air, and en-

liven our flower gardens during the
whole of the summer with their
beautiful crimson flowers; and
though they die down to the ground
in winter, they spring up from the
root the following May, and during
summer flower profusely. ‘They
grow freely ina mixtureof vegetable
earth, or peat, sandy loam, and a
little well-rotted dung, which must
be kept moist, but by no means
sodden. All the species strike freely
from cuttings of the young wood,
without bottom-heat ora bell-glass ;
but they will do better with these
assistants ; and if planted round the
edges of pots, in a rather more sandy
soil than themother plants have been
grown in, and plunged into a slight
hotbed and shaded, they will be fit
to pot off in about a month or six
weeks. Seeds are frequently ripened,
and many very beautiful varieties
and hybrids have been raised in this
country. One of the finest of these

hybrids is F. Standishit, raised |

between F. ylobosa and F. falgens,
and figured in the ‘“ Botanical Regis-
ter” for 1840. Seeds vegetate freely
if sown as soon as they are ripened
in a rather sandy soil, on a little
heat ; and unlike most other peren-
nial plants, they will, if grown
strongly, flower the first year. J.
Chandlérti is a splendid kind, and
was raised by Mr. Chandler of Vaux-
hall, from seed of F. falgens. The

FP. discolor, F. virgata, F. micro-
phylla with small flowers, and FP.
gracilis ; which last, though natu-
rally a handsome shrub, about four
feet high, may be trained to a single
stem so as to form a small tree, in
the following manner :—The first
point is to select a healthy young
plant that has a strong leader, and,
taking it into a |forcing-house, to
remove its lateral branches and

| leaves to about half its height. The

plant must then be kept constantly
growing for two years, till it has
attained the required height ; during
which period it must be frequently
shifted into larger and larger pots,
the lateral shoots and leaves being
taken off as fast as they appear.
When the plant has acquired the
height of eight or ten feet, it may be
suffered to have a little rest ; that is
it may be taken out of the hothouse
and placed in a greenhouse, when it
will lose its leaves, and cease grow-
ing; for it must be observed, that
while kept constantly growing by
heat and moisture in the hothouse,
it will retain its leaves during
winter, contrary to the usual habits
of the genus. The following spring,
when the plant begins to grow, the
top should be pinched off, when it
will, in the course of a few months,
produce a beautiful head, covered
with flowers ; and in this state, if
set in the centre of a bed of Fuchsias
on a lawn, or in a flower-garden, it
will have a very pleasing effect.
filgens is a tuberous-rooted species,
with herbaceous stems, which natu-
rally die off after the plant has pro-
duced its seeds. When this is the
case, the root requires to be kept
quiet till the following spring, when
it may be brought forward by putting
it into a hothouse, or plunging it

‘into a hotbed. Young cuttings of

ee eee eee ee

FUMARIA.

this species strike as freely as any
of the other sorts ; but they require
care, as they are liable to damp off.
In some cases a single leaf has struck

the roots proceeding from the thick- |

ened part at the base of the petiole.
fF’. arboréscens forms, in its native
country, a handsome low tree ; but
in England it proves much more
tender than the other species, and
succeeds best in the stove, where it

deserves a place on account of its |

fine foliage and its terminal heads of
lilac flowers. It grows very freely
from cuttings, which often attain the
height of five or six feet in one year.
fF, discolor is a very hardy species,
a native of Port Famine, near the
Straits of Magellan, but it is not
very handsome, from the dingy
colour of its flowers. /’. coccinea is
interesting from having been the
first Fuchsia grown in England, and
the only one grown in this country
for many years, it having been intro-
duced in 1788; while the oldest of
the others (F’. gracilis) was not intro-
duced till 1823. F. cocctnea should
be kept in the greenhouse. All the
Fuchsias hybridise freely with each
other, and vary very much from
seed, which most of the kinds ripen
every year. The fruit is a dark-
purple berry, which when ripe is
eatable. Among the Fuchsias that
have been introduced within the last
ten years may be mentioned Ff.
corymbiflora, which is nearly hardy,
F, eximia, F. radicans, a creeping
or climbing plant like the Ivy, F.
macrantha, F. serratifolia, F.
spléndens, F. depéndens, and Ff.
spectabilis, which last has been
called the Queen of the Fuchsias ;
besides innumerable hybrids.
Fuma'ria. — Fumariacee. —
Pretty little plants with curiously-
shaped flowers, which grow best in
calcareous or sandy soils. The an-
nual kinds should be sown with other

125

GAILLARDIA.

annuals in March, April, or May;

|and the perennial species are in-

creased by division of the root. |

Some of the kinds are now called
Corydalis, and some Diélytra.
Fumitory.—See Fuma‘ria.

Fu'nxia.—Hemerocallidacee.— |

The Japan Day Lily.— Bulbous-

rooted plants that were formerly con- |

sidered to belong to the genus Heme-
rocallis. They are natives of China
and Japan, and are grown in the
open air in England. F. ceridea
is quite hardy, and will grow any-
where, but /’. alba requires a warm
dry border, as do the newly-intro-
duced species. They are all very
ornamental, and some of them are
fragrant.
Furze.—See U'iex.

A'GEA. — Asphodelaicee. —

Pretty little European bulbous
plants, generally with small dingy
yellow flowers. They should be
grown in sandy soil, and will not
require taking up in winter.
plants belonging to this genus were
formerly considered to belong to
Ornithégalum. Gagea litea or
fascicularis is a British plant.

GAILLA‘RDIA. — Compésite. —
Very showy herbaceous plants,
natives of America, some of which
are annuals, and others perennials.
They grow best in peat soil. G.
Drummindu or picta,

The |

and G. |

pulchélla, or bicolor, as it is called |

in the seed-shops, are annuals ; and
their seeds should be sown on a
slight hotbed in February or March;
or in the open ground in the same
months, and covered with a hand-
glass, or a flower-pot turned over
them, to preserve them if the wea-
ther should be frosty when they
come up. It is necessary to sow
the seeds of these plants in Feb-
ruary or March, as they are a long

GARDENS,

126

GARDENER.

time before they come into flower.

The true G. bicolor is a perennial |

species, now called G. lanceolata,
which should be grown in a peat
border, and kept moderately moist;
it is propagated by seeds or division
of the root.

GaLa‘nTHUS. — Amaryllidacee.
—The Snowdrop.—The common
British Snowdrop, G. nivalis, is well
known both in its single and double
state ; but G. plicdtus, the Russian
Snowdrop, which has smaller flowers,
is not so common. They both re-
quire a light rich soil, and they will
thrive under the drip of trees. They
are increased by ofisets.

GALE‘ANDRA. — Orchidacee. —
Orchideous plants from Mexico and
Guatemala. A variety of G. Baueri

| has very showy golden flowers.

GaALInso'GEa. — Composite. —G.

| trilobata is a well-known showy
_ Mexican annual, with rich orange-

yellow flowers, which will grow in
any common soil, and may be sown
in March, April, or May. Like so
many other plants, Professor De
Candolle has changed its name ; and

' it is now called Sogalgina trilobata.

GARDENS, in floriculture, may be
described as separate scenes for the
display of ornamental plants. The

| forms of these gardens or scenes are

different; some being laid out in
beds, the prevailing forms of which
are curvilinear ; and others in beds,
of which the prevailing forms are
rectangular, such as squares, paral-

_ lelograms, octagons, polygons, &e.

In some gardens, the beds have the
forms of peculiar styles of architec-
ture, such as of the Gothic, Grecian,
Elizabethan, &c.; and these latter
forms have given rise to what are
called styles or manners in laying
out Gardens. Hence we have gar-
dens in the Gothic style, in which
the forms of Gothic architecture
prevail: others in which the Gre-

cian forms prevail; and soon. In
all these styles, the great art is to

plants ; and for this purpose, roun-
dish beds, or such as have obtuse
angles, are preferable to long narrow
beds, or such as have acute angles ;
because the former are more con-
venient for stirring the soil, and the
surface is more readily covered with
plants, without, at the same time,
causing the plants to spread over the
boundaries. Hence, long narrow
beds are generally covered to excess
by the plants spreading over the
outline on the walks or spaces be-
tween; and in acute-angled forms
the angles are not sufficiently cov-
ered. See FrowEr-GaRDEN,
GARDENER.—To keep a flower-
garden in perfection, it is necessary
to have a good gardener, unless the
amateur understands how the various
operations of gardening are to be
performed sufficiently well to be
ableto direct an indifferent gardener,
or a common labourer, how to exe-
cute them. Thus, those persons who
wish to have a show-garden, will
find it the best plan, if their grounds
are large, to employ a good gar-
dener, and to leave everything to his
direction (for a really good gardener
will not bear to be interfered with),
allowing him to employ as many
labourers as he may think proper ;
but if the grounds be small, this
plan will be found too expensive ;
and it will be better to contract
with a nurseryman to keep the
garden constantly in order, and full
of plants during the whole summer.
|The great enjoyment of gardening,
however, in my opinion, is only to
be obtained by the amateur who
gardens himself, and who under-
stands the principles or reasons
upon which each operation is founded;
and, therefore, I should recommend

|

adopt such forms as are favourable |
to the cultivation and display of |

ee at =< a es

_is very handsome.

GARDOQUIA.

127

GATHERING FLOWERS.

all persons fond of gardening, and

especially ladies, who have suflicient |

leisure, not to attempt to have a
show-garden, in which they can take
comparatively little interest, but to
manage their gardens themselves,
with the assistance of a man to per-
form the more laborious operations.
Tt sometimes happens that a man-
servant in the family, who is not
overburdened with in-door duties,
will answer this purpose ; but it is
generally preferable to employ a man
who has been brought up as a
gardener.

GaRDE'NIA. — Rubiacee. — The

Cape Jasmine. —Greenhouse and |

stove shrubs, most of which are
natives of the East or West Indies,
with large and handsome flowers,
which are generally white. G.
jflérida, the common Cape Jasmine,
obtained its English name from its
haying been first brought to Eng-
land from the Cape of Good Hope,
where it was found cultivated in a
garden, though it is really a native
of China. All the species should be
grown in a compost of loam and
peat, and they all require a moist
heat.
cuttings of the young wood, struck
in sand, under a glass, and with
bottom heat.

Garpbogura. — Lablate. — Half

They are propagated by |

may be greatly increased both in
size and beauty ; and it looks very
well trained over a wire frame.

GaRLICc FLower.—See A‘LLIvM.

GA‘RRYA.—Garryacee.—A hardy
evergreen, introduced only a few
years since, and which produced its
very handsome long pendulousspikes
of blossoms, or catkins, for the first
time in England, in October, 1834.
These spikes are produced in bun-
ches of eight or ten together ; and
they are frequently above a foot long.
It is quite hardy, and should be
grown in a loamy soil, where it will
continue flowering all the winter,
in defiance of the cold. It isa most
striking object, not only from the
great abundance of its long, slender,
graceful catkins, but from its dark-
green, glossy and leathery leaves.
It is readily increased by layers, or
cuttings, struck in sand under a
glass.

GATES are only necessary in flower-
gardens, when they are inclosed by
hedges, walls, or sunk, or wire
fences, and the gute ought always to
bear some kind of relation to the
fence. A wire or iron fence may
Lave a wire or iron gate, but it
should be always of the simplest
construction ; a rustic fence should
have a rustic gate; and a wall or
a hedge commonly a close gate, or a

shrubby dwarf plants, mostly na- | boarded gate with stone or brick

tives of South Americaand Mexico ;
one species of which G. Hodkeri,
commonly called the Scarlet Thyme,
which is a native of South Carolina,
It should be
grown in sandy peat and loam, in
well-drained pots; and the plants
should be plentifully supphed with
water while they are in a growing
state. Itis nearly hardy, only re-
quiring protection from frost, and it
will continue flowering jor several
months. By frequent repotting,
and careful management, this plant

| piers.

Where a flower-garden is
surrounded by a sunk fence com-
posed of a sunk wall, and a fosse
or ditch, the gate may in some cases
be of iron between stone piers, and
in others of light twisted wire. In
all cases of this kind, the general
harmony of the scene must be taken
as a guide ; and care taken that the
gate neither appear too conspicuous,
nor too insignificant.

GATHERING FLOWERS for bouquets
or nosegays should always be per-
formed when the plants are dry;

| the Rose,

GAULTHEBRIA. 1

28 GENETYLLIS.

otherwise, when tied together in a
nosegay, the compressed leaves are
liable to rot. The sprigs or shoots
containing the flowers, or in the
case of monocotyledonous plants, such
as the Narcissus, the Hyacinth, &Xc.,
the flower-stems should always be
taken off so as not to injure the
leaves which remain on the plant ;
and in branching plants, such as
and all dicotyledonous
herbaceous plants, the sprigs should
be cut off at the back of a bud,
otherwise in a short time an un-
sightly naked portion of the stem
will remain on, which will at last
wither, and disfigure the living
plant. The branches should always
be cut off, and not broken ; as it is
extremely difficult to break off a
branch without injuring the portion
that remains on the tree.
GATHERING SEEDS is an interest-
ing operation; because it carries
the mind forward to another year,
and another generation. It should
not be performed till the seed-pods
are full-grown, which is easily known
by the tendency of some of them to
burst. It should always be done
when the pods are perfectly dry,
and consequently, after the warmest
part of the day rather than before
it. The pods, after being gathered,
should be laid in papers or in
saucers, and exposed to the air ina
dry place in the shade; and after
being thoroughly dried they may
either be tied up in papers without
being opened, or the seeds taken out,
the husks removed, and the clean
seeds tied up and preserved in a dry
place.
GAULTHE'RIA.--Ericacee. --Dwarf
hardy shrubs, natives of North Ame-
rica, with flowers like the A‘rbutus,
and berry-like fruit, which is good
to eat. Both the species should be
grown in peat, or heath-mould ;

they are quite hardy, and will

thrive under the drip of trees.
They are propagated by layers. G.
Shallon prefers a shady situation,
where its roots may always be kept
moist ; and it will grow well and
produce abundance of flowers and
fruit in the closest parts of London.
Gavu'RA.—Onagracee.— Curious
hardy annual and biennial flowers,
natives of North America, nearly
allied to Clarkia, and requiring only
the usual culture of their respective
kinds. —See Annvuats and Bren-
NIALS.
GEISSORHI'ZzA.—/ridacee.—Tile
Root. — Beautiful little bulbous
plants, which were formerly con-
sidered to belong to I'xia. G.
Rocheana, the Plaid Ixia, is par-
ticularly beautiful ; and the whole
plant is not above six inches high.
The bulbs are not larger than a pea,
All the species are natives of the

Cape, and require a little protection |

during winter, though more from
heavy rains than frost, if the bulbs
are left in the ground at that season.
If, however, they have been planted
on a dry sandy bank, they may be
left without any covering. All the
species, from their low stature and
the brilliancy of their flowers, look
exceedingly well in pots. In this
case they should be grown in sand
and peat, of very sandy loam, and
the pots should be well drained with
cinders.

GELSE'MIUM. — Apocynece. — A
pretty climbing evergreen shrub,
generally kept in the greenhouse or
conservatory, and generally known
as Bigndnia sempervirens, a native
of South Carolina. Jt is grown ina
compost of sand and peat, and it is
propagated by cuttings struck under
a glass.

GENETYLLIS. — Myrtacee. —A
very showy little shrub from the
Swan River. Introduced in 1854,
A plant not quite three feet high,

4 Wopersssi ag

en

GEOMETRIC GARDENS.

had on it nearly two hundred
heads of flowers, which look like
miniature tulips ; this gay appear-
ance being however only theinvolucre
or floral leaves, which conceal the
real flower. It is a hardy green-
house plant.

Genti’sta.—Leqgumindse.—There
are above fifty distinct species of
Genista, most of which will live in
the open air in British gardens, but
someof whichare greenhouse shrubs.
They all are very handsome, from
the profusion of their bright yellow
pea-flowers. The greenhouse kinds
should be grown in peat and loam,
and are propagated by cuttings
under a glass, which should be
taken off frequently and wiped, or
they will damp off.

Gentran.—See Gentta‘na.
| Gentia‘na. — Gentiandcee. —
Well-known plants, generally with
pretty flowers and tonic properties.
G. acatlis is frequently used as an
edging plant, and it is remarkable
for the brilliant colour of its flowers,
which are large, and of a deep maza-
rine blue. Allthe Gentians require
abundance of free air, and will not
grow well in the smoky atmosphere
of atown. They should be grown
in a light rich soil, and do best in a
mixture of loam and peat, enriched
with a little vegetable mould. G.
acatlis does best in peat alone.
The perennial kinds are increased by
dividing the root, and the annual
ones by seeds, which should be sown
as soon as ripe, as, if left till spring,
they will not come up till the second
year.

GEOMETRIC GARDENS. — This
style of gardening is that in which
the shape of the ground, of the beds,
of the walks, and evenof the shrubs,
is regular or symmetrical ; such as
may be formed on paper by a rule
and compass. The ground, if origi-
nally flat, is reduced to a general

129

GERANIUM,

level surface, over which the beds,
or borders, are distributed so as to
form figures either simply regular, —
such as squares and parallelograms,
repeated one after another—or
squares and parallelograms, and
circles or ovals, or other curvi-
linear figures,—so arranged as to be
symmetrical ; that is to say, that
one half of the figure formed by the
whole shall correspond with the
other half. When the surface is
naturally irregular or on a slope it
is thrown into different levels, which
are joined by steep slopes called
terraces, generally covered with
turf, and ascended and descended
by stone steps. Each of the levels
is laid out either regularly or sym-
metrically in the same manner as if
the whole were only one bed; but
the figures are of course smaller.
Small trees or evergreen shrubs are
distributed among the figures, and
especially on each side of the main
walks ; and these trees or shrubs
ought, in strict accordance with the
style, to be cut or clipped into
regular shapes ; such as cones, pyra-
mids, balls, candelabra, statues of
men or animals, arcades, columns,
or other architectural figures. In
modern practice, this is generally
neglected ; but its omission is a
defect, for cut trees are as essential
to the geometric style, as having
the ground cut or shaped into arti-
ficial surfaces. For the mode of
cutting trees and shrubs into regular
shapes, see Topiary ; and for laying
out the beds so as to form a regular
figure, see PARTERRE.

GERA‘NIUM. — Geraniacee. —
There are few plants more easily
grown, or that better repay the care
of the cultivator, than Geraniums,
or, as they are more properly called,
Pelargoniums. All the half-shrubby
kinds require a light rich soil,
composed of well-rotted manure,

E

se shel sees asenssnssunsss

GERANIUM.

leaf-mould, sand, and yellow loam,
kept moderately moist. What is
called rough potting, that is, filling
the pots with chopped loamy turf,
mixed with pieces of charcoal and
with vegetable mould, is found to
answer exceedingly well with Gera-
niums, as they never thrive so well
as when they have abundance of air
admitted to their roots. On this
account also they thrive when
treated according to the one-shift
system. A cool greenhouse, where
the sashes can frequently be thrown
off, and a balcony or window, not
too much exposed to the sun, are
the best adapted for them ; and in
such situations they may be kept
during the whole year, only re-
quiring, when in full flower, to be
slightly shaded from the sun, to
prolong the blossoming season. Ge-
raniums are readily propagated at
almost any season, by cuttings of
the shoots, which will strike readily
in the same soil as that in which
the plants are grown, without
either a glass or bottom-heat. The
nurserymen, however, generally take
their cuttings off the points of the
shoots in the autumn, and plant
them round the edges of pots filled
with light rich soil, and plunged
into a moderate hotbed. When
the cuttings are sufficiently struck,
which will be in about six weeks,
they may be potted into single pots;
or if there should not be room in the
greenhouse for so many pots, they
may be placed on a tolerably dry
shelf, near the glass, till the fol-
lowing spring, when those that are
wanted may be potted, and the rest
reserved for planting outin the open
ground, to bloom in the borders
during the summer. Sometimes
cuttings are made from the plants
in the open air, by merely placing
the cuttings in a warm border in
face of a wall open to the south ;

130

GERANIUM.

and plants thus raised are much
hardier than those struck in heat.
If kept dry, they have been even
known to survive a frost that has
killed all their leaves, and indeed
to live through the winter without
protection. Gardeners and nurse-
rymen who wish to raise show
plants, put their cuttings in small
pots in vegetable mould and sand,
and keep them in a cold pit till
February or March, when they repot
them in rich soil, after which the
pots are plunged into a hotbed. As
the side shoots grow they are tied
to little sticks, to keep them apart
and to make the plant bushy, the
tips of the shoots being taken off.
As the plants grow they are usually
shifted and reshifted into larger and
larger pots, the pots being filled up
with loam not too fine, and rotten
dung. Immediately after the plants
have flowered, they should be cut
down nearly to the ground, or they
will become drawn up, and will pre-
sent an unhealthy appearance. By
cutting them down, abundance of
fine young side shoots will be pro-
duced by the autumn, the ends of
which are used as cuttings, In this
manner, good bushy plants are
insured, and plenty of young plants
provided for the next year. Many
gardeners throw away the old plants
as soon as they have done flowering,
after cutting them down, and making
as many cuttings as they can of the
shcots; but others take the old
plants out of their pots, and shaking
the earth from them, hang them up
by the roots, with the head down-
wards, till the time for repotting in
spring. Geraniums may be thus
kept quite dry in a cellar, hung up
like plants gathered for their seed ;
or they may be laid in rows ina
cellar, with their roots covered
with dry sand. In both cases the
plants should be repotted in Feb-

GERANIUM.

131

GERANIUM.

ruary in 2 rich soil of loam and | bleed, that is, to suffer the exube-
rotten dung, and the pots plunged | rant sap to escape; after which

into a hotbed to excite the plants to
grow. Many hundreds of beautiful
varieties of Geraniums are cross-
breeds raised from seed; that is,
those raised from a plant the stigma
of which has been fecundated by
pollen from the anthers of another
variety of the same species. In this
respect, cross-breeds differ from
hybrids, which are raised from seed
fecundated from a plant of a dific-
rent genus, or, at any rate, a very
ditferent species. The use of cross-
breeding is thus rather to improve
plants, by crossing them with
others having a better habit of
growth, or more brilliant-coloured
flowers, than to raise new and
striking varieties; and, for this
purpose, the plants chosen for the
parents should be such as would be
greatly improved by admixture
with another. For example, a fine,
bright-coloured flower, on a plant
of a loose and bad habit of growth,
might be crossed by a plant of a
dwarf habit, the flowers of which
were not beautiful, and so on.

The following mode of grafting
Geraniums is abridged from the
‘* Rloricultural Magazine” for May,
1840. The stocks should be of the
strongest and healthiest kinds, about
two or three years old, and rendered
bushy by frequent transplanting,
and pinching off the leading shoots.
The year before they are wanted as
stocks, they should be cut down in
August to within three eyes (or
buds) of the base of each shoot. In
the following May the stocks should
be transplanted into fresh pots, a
size larger than their old ones ; and
early in June, they should be ‘‘ cut
down to a clear grown part of the
shoot, about two inches from the
last year’s wood.” The stock should
then be left two or three days to

it may be grafted in the whip or
side manner, without a tongue;
care being taken to choose ‘‘ well-
ripened shoots, about three inches
long, for scions.” The principal
difficulty arises from the succulent
nature of the Geranium shoots ; as,
if the bark be bruised or wounded
during the operation, the grafts will
not take; and they are also very
easily broken off afterwards.

Standard Geraniums are now
grown by many gardeners, and have
a striking and novel effect. They
are produced like Standard Fuch-
sias, by keeping the plants constantly
growing for two or three years, and
as constantly depriving them of
their side shoots. Geraniums thus
treated should be planted out where
the climate will permit, or where
they can be protected ; or, if kept
in pots, it should be on the one-
shift system, and the soil they are
grown in should consist of large
pieces of loamy turf, mixed with
vegetable mould and pieces of
charcoal. These plants look very
well on a lawn.

The herbaceous and tuberous-
rooted Geraniums require a much
more sandy soil; and, when they
have done flowering, they should be
put ona dry shelf, near the glass,
and very sparingly watered till the
spring, when they may be repotted,
and treated as above. These may
be propagated by cuttings, or divi-
sion of the roots, in rather dry and
sandy soil, and they rarely perfect
their seeds in our green-houses.

The old genus Geranium has been
divided by modern botanists into
fifteen genera ; three of which are
quite distinct, and have been already
mentioned under the head of Eré-
dium. The kinds usually grown in
green-houses belong to the genus

Le ———— ee
A

GILIA.

132

GLADIOLUS.

NN

Pelargonium ; and of these there are
nearly six hundred distinct species,
besides innumerable cross-breeds,
hybrids, and varieties.
GerMa’/NDER.—See TEU'CRIUM.
GrERopo'con.—Compésite.—Old
Man’s Beard. — The best known
species of this genus, @. glaber, is
a native of Italy, and is a very
curious plant. It is an annual,
having a smooth stem and leaves,

GirHa'co.—Silenacee, or Caryo-
| phyllacee.—The Corn Cockle.-—A

British weed, sometimes cultivated
in flower-gardens.

GLADES are open spaces of turf
among shrubs or trees of irregular
shapes, without definite boundaries,
so as to give the idea of something
beyond them, of which the extent
cannot be guessed. They should
vary in width, and be of the most

and growing about a foot high. | irregular shapes; the types being
The flowers are fresh-coloured, and | the open glades which appear in
expand in the form of a star only | forest or copse-wood scenery. Their
when the sun shines upon them. | beauty in pleasure-grounds depends

The seeds are very curious, and it is
from them that the plant takes its
English name. They should be sown
in the open border, in any common
soil, in March or April, and the
plants will flower in Julyand August,

GESNE’RIA or GE'SNERA.—Ges-
neracee.—Showy hothouse plants,
generally with scarlet flowers. They
require a light rich soil, and are
propagated by cuttings struck in
sand under a bell-glass with the
aid of bottom-heat.

Gr'um. — Rosacee. — Avens, or
Herb Bennet.—Perennial plants,
natives of Europe and America,
with very handsome flowers. G.
Quéllyon Swt. (G. coccinewm Bot.
Reg.) is a splendid plant, a native
of Chili, with large orange-scarlet
flowers. All the species are hardy,
and require a light rich soil; they
are propagated by seeds, or by
dividing the roots. Some of the
species are now called Sievérsia; the
seed vessels of Geum being hooked,
and those of Sievérsia ending ina
straight feathery point.

Gr 114. — Polemoniacece. — Beau-
tifu] annual flowers, natives of Cali-
fornia, which only require sowing
in spring or autumn in the open
border. This genus is now (1857)
united with Leptosiphon. See Caut-
FORNIAN ANNUALS, and ANNUALS.

much on the smoothness or high
keeping of the turf, and on the
varied ground outline of the branches
of the trees or shrubs which repose
on it.

GuaproLus. — Lridacee. — The
Corn Flag.—The Gladioli or Corn
Flags are bulbous plants with long
spikes of showy bell-shaped flowers ;
and they are nearly all natives of the
Cape of Good Hope. The bulbs or
rather corms, are solid, and do not
require taking up if they can be kept
dry during winter. The best mode
of doing this is by fixing a frame
with sashes over them, as this
allows of giving them air when fine.
When grown in pots, the soil should
be very sandy loam enriched with
decayed leaves, and the bulbs should
be kept entirely without water,
from the time the leaves decay in
autumn, till they begin to grow the
following spring. Many cultivators
take the bulbs out of their pots
every September, and renew the
soil ; but others only take them up
every third year. At Spofforth,
Yorkshire, where the soil is a rich
yellow loam, there are clumps of
Gladioli which have been left undis-
turbed in the open ground for more
than twenty years, and which flower
magnificently every summer. The
only protection given, is covering

GLASS CASES.

133

GLAUCIUM.

the clump in autumn two or three
inches thick with dry leaves, which
are swept up from the neighbouring
shrubbery, formed into a_ heap,
rising highest in the centre, and
sloping down onevery side. Similar
treatment is given to beds of Scarlet
Gladioli in the garden at Blair Adam
in Scotland, which are exceedingly
splendid. A great number of very
splendid hybrid Gladioli, have been
raised by Mr. Cole, gardener to J.
Wilmore, Esq., of Edgbaston, near
Birmingham, principally between
G. cardinalis, and G. psittacinus,
or G. natalénsis, which in the length
of the spike, the size of the flower,
and the brilliancy of the colours,
surpass anything of the kind that I
have ever seen.

Gass Cases are of two kinds—
those which are intended to cover
plants in the open air, and those
which are used for covering plants in
rooms or on the outsides of windows,
balconies, &e. Glass cases for the
open air may be made of any conve-
nient size or form so as to cover the
plants to be protected ; and some-
times they are glazed on every side,
though at others they are placed
against a wall, and only glazed in
front and at the ends. The frame-
work may be of wood, or of iron or
zinc, so contrived as to separate
into pieces, and join together in any
temporary manner, in order that the
gardener may be able to admit air,
or to remove the case entirely at
pleasure. A common hand-glass
may be designated the smallest
description of glass case, and a
portable greenhouse the largest.
Glass cases for rooms consist of two
parts—a body or box containing the
mould and plants, and a hand-glass,
or glazed case, for placing over it.
This case, which may be square or
oblong, two feet wide, and four or
five feet long, should fit into a

USS = Ss

groove in the box containing the
plants; and the plants, when
planted and watered, will require
no more attention for several weeks,
or even months, according to the
kind intended to be grown. Hya-
cinths planted in such a case in
November, and placed in a room,
will require no attention, except,
perhaps a little water, till they have
done flowering in the following
March. Ferns and Cacti will re-
quire no attention for a year; but
plants which come soon into flower,
such as China Roses, or indeed any
plants which are coming into flower
when planted, require to be re-
moved when they have done flow-
ering, and to be replaced by others.
The glazed frames for such cases
should be of mahogany or metal,
and of neat and accurate workman-
ship; and plate, or German glass,
ought to be employed. :
GLASTONBURY THORN.—A va-
riety of the common Hawthorn that
blossoms about Christmas. The
legend is, that Joseph of Arimathea
having struck his staff into the
ground to indicate where Glaston-
bury Abbey was to be built, prayed,
that if he had fixed on the right
place, the Holy Virgin would give
him a sign of her approval, when
instantly the staff (which was a
branch of Hawthorn) struck root
and shot forth leaves, flowers, and
fruit. The original tree of this
variety grows near Glastonbury ;
but plants, grafted from it, are
common in all the nurseries.
GuLav’cium. — Papaveracee. —
The Horned Poppy.—A British
plant, common on the shore between
Brighton and Shoreham, with glau-
cous or bluish-green leaves, and
large yellow flowers. The pods are
long and horn-like, whence the
English name. The species are
annuals or biennials, and should be

GLORIOSA.

grown in a chalky or calcareous
soil. The seeds are common in all
the seed shops.

GurecHo'Ma. — Labiate. — The
Ground Ivy.— There are two species :
one with blue flowers, which is a
British weed; and the other, the
flowers of which are pink, which is
a native of Hungary. They will
both grow in any common soil ; and,
being perennials, are increased by
division of the roots.

GLOBE AMARANTH. —See Gom-
PHRE'NA.

GLoBEe FLowER.—See TRO'LLIUS.

Guope THIstTLe. — See Ecut'-
NOPS.

GLoBuLa’R1A.—Globularinee.—
The Blue Daisy.—Perennial and suf-
fruticose plants, with round heads
of blue flowers, most of which re-
quire a greenhousein England. All
the species grow freely in a mixture
of loam and peat, and are propa-
gated by cuttings under a glass.

Griorio'sa.— Tulipacee.—G. su-
pérba is a magnificent plant which
deserves cultivation in. every hot-
house. It is propagated by seeds,
which ripen freely; or by divi-
ding the roots, which, after the
division, which should be in Jan-
uary or February, should be
potted in rather small but deep
pots, and plunged into a bark-bed,
where they should have very little
water till they begin to grow. In
March or April, the plants should
be removed to larger pots; and,
while they are growing, they should
be abundantly supplied with water.
The stems will require to be sup-
ported by a stake or trellis ; and,
if allowed sufficient heat and mois-
ture, they will grow rapidly, and
flower beautifully. When the stalks
die down, the pots containing the
roots should be removed to a dry
stove, where they should be kept
entirely without water till January

134

GLYCINE.

or February, when the roots should
be divided and repotted. The soil
should be composed of one-fourth of
peat, one fourth of leaf-mould, and
two-fourths of loam.
GLory-PEA.—See CLIA/NTHUS.
GuiossoLocy.— A knowledge of
the technical terms of botany.
| Groxi'n1aA.—Gesneracece.—Very
handsome plants, with bell-shaped
flowers, that require the heat of a
stove; hybrids, have, however,
been lately raised between this
genus and Sinningia, which prove
much hardier than their parents.
The commonest kinds of Gloxinia
are G. maculata, which is apt to
become so weak from the great
number of its suckers, that unless
they are removed as soon as they
appear, it will seldom flower ; and
G. speciosa, which flowers abun-
dantly. The former species is pro-
pagated by division of the root, and
the latter by cuttings, which strike
so freely without a glass, that even
a leaf taken off with the base of the
petiole entire, will take root, and
make a handsome plant. All the
species should be grown in a com-
post of loam, peat, and sand, or in
very sandy loam and vegetable
mould: and, when beginning to
grow, the plants should be well
supplied with heat and moisture.
The pots should, indeed, stand in a
saucer kept half full of water.
Guiy’ctnz. — Leguminose.
Climbing, tender plants, with pea-
flowers. The Linnzan genus Glycine
has been divided by modern botanists
into eleven genera, the best known
of which is Wistaria. Wistaria
Consequana, chinénsis, or sinénsis,
sometimes called by its old name of
Glicine sinénsis, is one of the most
valuable climbing trees that will
grow in the open air in Britain.
This tree, though now so common,
was only introduced in 1816 or

GLYCINE.

135

GNAPHALIUM.

1818 ; itis a native of China, and
appears to be quite hardy in the
neighbourhood of London. Itslarge
bunches of beautiful shaded lilac
‘flowers, which are fragrant, are
exactly like those of the common
laburnum, except in colour; and
they are produced most abundantly,
the tree, in favourable situations,
often bearing a second crop.

The Wistaria sinénsis will grow
in any common garden-soil ; but it
does best when the soil is light and
rich, and the plants are abundantly
supplied with water. It is often
several years before it flowers, as it
takes a long time to establish itself ;
but the period of its flowering may
be hastened by watering it regularly
with liquid manure, or by telling
the housemaid to empty the slops
and soap-suds on the ground near
it—taking care to pour the liquid
on the ground at a distance from
the stem of the plant, as it would
injure the collar if poured on it.
All watering is, indeed, most effec-
tual when it is given at some
distance from the stem of the plant,
as it is only the spongioles at! the
extreme points of the roots that can
take up the moisture so as to be of
any service; and water, if poured
on any other part that is under
ground, is in danger of rotting both
the epidermis and the cellular
tissue. When once established, the
Wistaria grows vigorously, and the
plant in the Horticultural Society’s
garden at Turnham Green being
checked in its height by that of the
wall against which it grows being
only eleven feet, has spread so far
on each side, as to cover a space of
above three hundred feet in extent.
It is easily propagated by layers, as
the shoots, if laid down, will throw
out roots at every joint. It may
also be propagated by cuttings of the
roots and branches, and even by

leaves, which will take root if
planted in sand and peat, and
covered with a glass, provided care
has been taken to break the petiole
off the branch without wounding the
protuberance at its base. Seeds of
this plant are very rarely ripened
in England; but when they are,
they vegetate as readily as those of
the common laburnum. The plant
requires a wall or trellis-work to
support it ; but any aspect will do.
Mr. Pamplin, of the Lavender Hill
Nursery, has a plant which is
trained against three sides of his
house, viz. the north, the east, and
the south ; and the only difference
he perceives is, that the flowers on
the south wall expand first, but are
the weakest and palest, and that
those on the north, though they are
the latest, are the darkest and most
vigorous. The Wiostdria sinénsis,
though so beautiful, is by no means
dear, as a plant costs from Ils. 6d.
to 2s. 6d. in the nurseries, accor-
ding to its size—a plant of the latter
price being the largest that can be
transplanted with safety. There is
a white variety, but it is very
inferior in beauty to the species.

GLycyRRHI'za.— Legumindse.—
The liquorice. A perennial plant
with small pale blue flowers, a native
of the south of Europe. The liquor-
ice ismade by boiling the root, (which
resembles that of the ginger in ap-
pearance) a long time, and letting
the moisture evaporate from the
sediment. The plant is not worth
cultivating except from curiosity;
but when it is grown, it requires a
very rich mould.

GNaAPHA‘LIUM. — Composite. —
Cudweed. This genus now includes
only about half the number of species
that it formerly did, six or seven
new genera having been formed out
of it. The British species are cot-

tony-looking weeds, and very few,

GODETIA.

if any, of the foreign kinds are worth |

cultivating. The French Jmmor-
telle, of which such quantities are
sold near the Cemetery of Pére la
Chaise, and which used to be called
Gnaphalium orientale, is now re-
moved to the genus Helichrysum.—
See Hericury'suM.

Gni'p1a. — Thymelacee.— Very
pretty greenhouse plants, which are
rather difficult to cultivate, from the
great delicacy of their roots. They
should be grown in a mixture of
sandy peat, or in what is called
heath-mould ; andthey should never
be suffered either to flag for want of
water, or to stand in saucers full of
it. All the species are rather diffi-
cult to propagate ; but the best way
is to take off the tips of the shoots
when quite young, and to plant them
in pure sand under a bell-glass.

Goat’s BEARD.--See TRAGOPO'GON.

Goat’s RuE.—See Ga eE'ca.

Goat’s THorn. — Astragalus
Tragacantha.

GopE‘TIa. — Onagracew. — The
purple-flowered kinds of (nothéra,
or Evening Primrose, have been
divided from the others and formed
into a genus under the name of
Godétia, by Professor Spach, a
German botanist, residing in Paris.
Professor Spach formed thirteen
other genera out of Cinothéra, but
only this one appears to have been
generally adopted. The hand-
somest species of Godétia are G.
rubictinda, G. vindsa, and G. lépida,
all natives of California, introduced
in 1835, and all of which may be
sown in September, like the other
Californian annuals. See ANNUALS.
The other kinds are also all hardy
annuals, which require no other care
than sowing in March or April in
the open border, in any common
garden-soil, and thinning out when
they come up, if they appear too
thick. All the Godétias are rather

136

GOMPHRENA.

tall-growing plants, and, if not
thinned out, they will become drawn
up and weak. If the stalks appear
weak, they should be tied to slender
stakes. They bear transplanting
well. The colours are most bril-
liant when grown in a poor soil ;
but the plants are smaller and
less vigorous. A rich soil, however,
sometimes makes them produce
more leaves than flowers.

GOLDEN-LEAVED CHESTNUT. —
This very curious and splendid tree
is a native of California, but there
is a specimen in the arboretum at
Kew. It is a sweet chestnut, and
its peculiarity consists in its leaves
which are of a bright gold hue on
the under sides, and which give it
a singular and brilliant appearance.

GOLDEN Rop.—See Sorrpa'co.

GoLDEN SaXIFRAGE,—See Cury-
SOSPLE'NIUM,

GoLpFu'ssta. — A canthacee. —
Stove plants, with handsome tubular
flowers.

GoMPHOLO‘BIUM. —Leguminose.
—Australian shrubs, which require
to be kept in a greenhouse in
England, and to ke grown in very
light loam, peat, and sand. Allthe
species are very difficult to pre-
serve ; and they are all very tender
delicate plants. They require to be
trained to a frame; and they are
easily killed, either by too much or
too little water. They are propa-
gated by seeds, which ripen freely ;
or by cuttings of the young wood,
which must be struck in sand, under
a bell-glass.

GomPHRE'NA. — Amaranthacee.
—The Globe Amaranth. This is
supposed to be the Amaranth of the
poets, which from the durability of
its flowers, was considered to be the
emblem of immortality. It seems
to have been used at funerals in the
time of Homer, as he describes it
as worn by the Thessalians at the

| to the rafters.

GORDONIA.

137

GRAFTING.

funeral of Achilles, and it is still
used for the same purpose in various
parts of the Continent. The plant
is a tender annual, which should be
raised on a hotbed or in a stove, and
which, even when in flower, should
be kept in the greenhouse. It should
be grown in a light rich soil, and
kept rather dry. Sometimes it is
propagated by cuttings, struck in
mould under a hand-glass; and

plants grown in this manner are |

generally much hardier than those
raised from seeds.
Goneo'RA.—Orchidacee.—Curi-
ous epiphytal plants, natives of the
tropics, which require the usual
treatment of orchideous plants, and
are generally grown in a moist stove,
or orchideous house, in baskets of
moss, or on a piece of wood hung up
Sometimes they are
grown in pots, in peat and sand,
mixed with pieces of broken stone
or lime-rubbish. The flowers hang
down from the root and require to
be shaded from the direct rays of
the sun.

division of the root; and when

_ grown in pots, the pots should be

half filled with potsherds.

GoNno’LoBUS.—A sclepiadacee.— |

Climbing plants with dark red
flowers, which require the heat of a
stove. They should be grown ina
mixture of loam and peat ; and they
may be increased by cuttings. The
flowers are more curious than beauti-
ful.

Gorpo'nta. — Ternstremidcee.
—The Loblolly Bay. This plant,
though in its native country, the
swamps of North America, it be-
comes a tree fifty or sixty feet high,
is in England rarely more than a
shrub-evergreen bush, the height
if which seldom exceeds five or six
feet. It is nearly allied to the
Caméllia, and it has large, white,
showy flowers, and large hand-

some leaves.

It should be grown in
peat earth, kept moist, in a low
sheltered situation ; but it is quite
hardy, and it has the great advan-
tage of flowering abundantly when
of very small size. It is generally
propagated by layers; but when
seeds are imported, they should be
sown on wet moss, as they are said
only to germinate well on that sub-
stance.

Gossy’piuM. — Malvacee.—The |

Cotton Tree. These plants, most of
which are natives of the East Indies,
require a stove in England. The
flowers are large and handsome, re-
sembiing those of the Mallow, and
the seeds are enveloped in a soft
white, woolly substance, which is the
cotton. This substance is often
produced in England. All the cot-

‘ton plants are herbaceous, and most

of them are biennials ; and they all
require a rich moist soil with abun-
dance of heat. They are propagated
by seeds and cuttings.
GRABO/WSKIA. — Solandcee. —

They are increased by| The new name for Lycium Boer-

haaviefolium.

GRAE'LLSIA. — Crucifera. — G.
saxifragefoliais a native of Persia,
whence it was introduced in 1844.
It is a little perennial plant, with a
great abundance of showy white
flowers, and is very ornamental, but
smells like garlic.

GRAFTING is the art of taking a
shoot from one plant and uniting it
to another, in such a manner as that
it shall grow and thrive as well as
if it were planted in the ground. A
grafted plant consists of two parts ;
the stock, which must have a root,
and the scion, which is united to the
stock, by the operation of grafting.
The scion is commonly a shoot of the
preceding year’s growth; but in
some cases, it may be a shoot of the
same year’s growth, or it may be of
the growth of two or more years.

GRAFTING.

138

GRAFTING.

The stock should be a well-rooted

| plant, fixed in the soil, with a stem

of at least as great a diameter as
that of the scion, but the stem may
be much larger, and of several years’
growth. Grafting is commonly
limited to woody plants, and it is
only within certain limits that it
can be performed. ‘To be united
together by grafting, it is necessary
that the plants be of the same
nature; and, generally, that they
be of the same genus or family ;
though, in some cases, all the genera
of a tribe will graft on one another.
Thus, any kind of Caméllia may be
grafted on any other kind of
Caméllia or Tea Tree, but not on
any other genus ; while any kind of
Pyrus may not only be grafted on
any other kind of Pyrus, but also
on Crate’gus, Méspilus, Sdérbus,
Cydonia, and perhaps several others.

The primary cause is probably to
be found in the organis&tion of the
respective tissues of the plants,
those uniting which are alike ; but
as this can only be determined by
microscopic observation, and only
then by the most acute vegetable

| amatomists, the safe rule in practice

is to limit our attempts at grafting
to species of the same genus.

Thé uses of grafting are various.
By grafting a weak-growing species
or variety on a strong-growing kind,
the weak-growing variety becomes
more vigorous ; and, consequently,
a large and handsome plant is much
sooner produced than could be done
by layers, cuttings or seeds. On
the contrary, by grafting a strong-
growing plant on a weak, low, or
slow-growing stock, dwarf plants
are produced, and thus specimens
of large trees may be obtained
within a very limited space. Plants
may be propagated by grafting that
cannot be increased readily by any
other mode: as is the case with

common fruit-trees. The shoots of
seedling plants grafted on a stock of
several years’ growth, will sooner
produce blossoms and fruit than
when left to grow on their own
roots.

There are various kinds of graft-
ing; but they are all founded on
this essential condition, viz., that
the inner bark of the scion should
be closely united to the inner bark
of the stock. Where the scion and
the stock are of the same thickness,
this may be done at both edges ;
but where the stock is thicker than
the scion, it can only be done at one
edge, which, however, is found
sufficient. The kinds of grafting
best adapted for ladies, are the
common svlice, or whip-grafting ;
slit or cleft-grafting ; side-grafting ;
and inarching.

Whip or splice-grafting, is repre-
sented in jig. 19, in which @ is the

FIG. 19.—WHIP, OR SPLICE-GRAFTING.

scion, and 0 is the stock. In this
case both scion and stock are of the
same thickness ; both are cut slant-
ing, so as exactly to fit ; and there
is a dovetail notch in the stock for
the scion to rest on. Whenthe scion

GRAFTING.

139

GRAFTING.

has been perfectly fitted to the stock,
it is tied with a strand of matting,
as shown in the figure, and after-
wards covered with grafting-wax, or
grafting-clay, the modes of making

FIG. 20.—GRAFTING THE CACTI.

which will be given hereinafter.
There are different variations of
this mode of grafting. Sometimes
the dovetail notch is omitted, and
at others a tongue is formed in the
scion and a slit made in the stock,
into which it is inserted; ‘iis

FIG. 21.—GRAFTING THE P-ZONY.

tongue serving the purpose of the
dovetail notch, viz., to keep the
scion in its place. When the stock
is of so much larger diameter than
the scion, theappearance of this graft

ul

is, of course, quite different, and the
latter is put on at one side, in order
that its inner bark may be closely
united with that of the stock. This
is the common mode of grafting
fruit-trees in the nurseries.

Slit, or cleft-grafting, is per-
formed by first cutting over the
stock, and next making a slit or

cleft in it ; then paring the scion on |

FIG.

2.—GRAFTING THE PZONY.

both sides, so as to form a wedge,
narrower at the inner edge; and
after inserting it in the cleft, tying
it and claying it as before. This
mode is well adapted for grafting
one succulent plant on another ; as,
for example, in the Cacti tribe,
grafting an Epiphyllum on a Peré-
skia, as shown in fig. 20, or for
ligneous Ponies on the tubers of
herbaceous ones, as shown in jigs.
2land22. In fig. 21, ais the stock
ee eee ee notched ; and, in fig. 22,

|

GRAFTING. 140 GRAFTING.

bis the prepared scion, and c¢ the | of side-grafting, as shownin jig. 26,
grafted plant. in which it will be observed, that

Side-grafting is shown in figs. 23 | the lower end of the scion is inserted
and 25, in which f.is the stock, | in a bottle of water, to supply it
from which 4 portion is cut out, | with moisture; a practice which,
against which the scion e¢, also | though not absolutely necessary, is
somewhat thinned down, is to be| found advantageous. In another
applied and made fast, as shown in | kind of side-grafting, the head of
the stock is cut off, and the scion
and the stock are cut, as shown in
jig. 23. Formerly, Caméllias were
—S5 very frequently grafted in this
SF manner.
| ae A new mode of grafting the
<9 Caméllia is shown in jig. 24. The

FIG, 24.—CLEFT-GRAFTING THE
CAME'LLIA,

w head of the stock is cut off, and only
la single leaf left; a cleft is then
$ made in the stock, and the scion
FIG, 23.—STOCK AND SCION PREPARED | (q), with only a single leaf attached,
ee PES Sanaa is inserted (6). The pot with the
| grafted plant is then plunged into a
fig. 25 at g. This being done, the | hotbed, and covered closely with a
graft is covered with grafting-wax | glass. This process is called in
orclay, as usual. It will be observed, | France La greffe étouffé.
that by this mode the head of the} Jnarching differs from the other
stock is not cut off, but is left on, in | kinds of grafting, by preserving the
order to draw up the sap, and also | scion attached to the parent plant
to prevent the stock from being dis- | till it has become united with the
figured in the event of the death of | stock in such a manner as to derive
the scion. There is another mode! its nourishment from it. For the

GRAFTING.

141

mode of performing the operation,
see INARCHING.

To graft with success, the opera-
tion is best performed in spring,
immediately before the buds of the

GRAFTING.

necessary to have a very sharp
knife ; for if the slightest roughness
is left on the parts of the scion and
the stock which are to be united,
their perfect union cannot be effected.

scion begin to expand; and, in| The operation ought also to be per-

FIG. 25.—SIDE-GRAFTING WITH THE
SCION BOUND ON THE STOCK.

general, the scion ought, in this
respect, to be in advance of the
stock ; a result which is obtained
by cutting off the scions from the
parent plant in the winter season,
and inserting their ends in the soil
in a cool shady place in the garden
till they are wanted in spring. In
performing the operation, it is

formed with rapidity, soas to expose
the naked sections of the scion and

FIG. 26.—GRAFTING WITH THE END OF
THE SCION IN A BOTTLE OF WATER.

stock for as few moments as possible
to the atmosphere. When the
plants to be grafted are in pots,
they should immediately afterwards
be placed in a gentle heat, and kept
moist; and if covered with a bell-
glass, so much the better. The
latter practice may be considered as
essential in the case of grafting
Orange trees, Caméllias, Rhododen-
drons, Daphnes, Arbutus, Magnolias,
&e. Grafts made in the open air,

GRAFTING.

on very small plants, may sometimes
be covered with hand-glasses, or
slightly sheltered or shaded till they
have begun to grow; and the soil
may be covered with litter, or rotten
tan, or leaves, to retain the moisture.
Where no pains are spared, the soil
may be warmed immediately after
grafting, by watering it with a few
pots of hot water. After the scion
has made shoots a few inches in

| length, the clay may be removed and
the matting loosened; but care
must be taken not to do this too
soon. ‘The proper time may always
be known by observing whether the

| edge of the scion exhibits a granu-
lating process, closely uniting it with
the stock. In general, in the course
of the month of August all the
matting from plants grafted in the

| open air may be removed ; and with
those under glass, this may be done
much sooner.

Grafting-clay is made of clayey
loam, or brick earth, mixed with
about a fourth part of fresh horse-
dung, free from litter, and a portion
of hay cut into pieces about an inch

| in length, adding a little water, and

| beating the whole together for

| several hours. On a small scale,
however, this preparation is not
necessary; as either moist clay
alone, or cow-dung, may be plastered
over the graft, and covered with
moss, or even with coarse paper ;
the moss, or paper, being tied on
with matting. The use of the
coyering is to exclude the air, and
consequently to retain the moisture
of the scion and stock, and also an
agreeable degree of temperature, in
order that the vessels of the two
woods may be able to unite.

Grafting-wax is composed of
bee’s-wax and pitch, with some
tallow, and a little rosin ; at first

142

GRAVEL.

proportions are of no great conse-
quence. ‘The mixture is kept in an
earthen pot, in which it may be
heated when wanted ; and is laid on
with a brush till it isa quarter of
an inch thick ; and if covered with
dry sand while it is still soft and
warm, it will not be likely to melt
and fall off, which otherwise would
probably be the case.

GRAINS OF PARADISE, — The
berries of Cécculus indicus.

GRAPE Hyacrntu. See Musca‘rt.

GrassEs.— There are but very |
few ornamental kinds of Grass that
are worth cultivating in a garden;
and the most remarkable of these
are the Quaking Grass, Briza
media, and the Feather Grass,
Stipa pennata. The Italian Reed,
Artindo Donaz, and its variety, the
Ribbon Grass, A. D. versicolor, are.
very ornamental; but they are
Reeds rather than Grasses, though
they belong to the same natural
family, Graminee. For a list of
the Grasses proper for laying down
a lawn, or grass plat, and their
qualities, see Lawn.

Grass VetcoH.—See Nisso'nra.

GRAVEL is in universal use for
forming walks in Britain; as sand
is, for want of gravel, on the Conti-
nent. The grand desiderata in
gravels are: the quality of binding,
or forming a smooth compact body, |
not liable to be disturbed by the |

|
|

feet in walking ; and a good colour
which shall harmonise agreeably
with the grass and trees, &c., |
around it. It is a very common
practice in forming gravel-walks, to
use the gravel as it comes from the
pit, and after it is laid down and
rolled, to cover it with sand taken
from the same gravel by screening
or sifting ; but unless this sand be
of a binding nature, from its con-

melted and mixed together, and | taining a good deal of iron, it soon
afterwards heated as wanted. The| separates from the rough gravel |

GRAVEL.

143

GRAVEL.

below, and is removed by sweeping.
Gravel, whether consisting of large
or small stones, or particles, if laid
down when perfectly dry, very
seldom can be made to bind ; and,
under such circumstances, it forms
a rough, moving, and consequently
a most disagreeable surface to walk
on. Aremedy forevils of this kind,
which is sometimes successful, is to
strew over the walk Roman cement
in powder, then to rake it, so as to
incorporate the powdered cement
with the surface of the ground to
the depth of two or three inches,
and immediately afterwards to water
it thoroughly, and roll it till it
becomes quite hard and smooth.
This is one of the best modes of
forming a permauent and agreeable
gravel-walk on a steep slope ; it is
also an excellent mode in small
gardens, where the object is to save
labour in keeping, and to prevent
the growth of weeds. Sea-shore
gravel, which is generally mixed
with sand and shells, can only be
rendered firm by this process, or by
one which destroys its colour, viz.
mixing it with tar or gas liquor.
When so mixed, however, it forms a
very durable walk, though it is of a
dark and disagreeable colour. Next
to these modes, the best means is to
break a number of small stones, or
pebbles, into fragments ; and if this
be done with about one-third of the
quantity of gravel to be used, and
the fragments intimately mixed with
the round pebbles, the gravel, when
thoroughly rolled with a very heavy
roller, will bind. The finest gravel
in the world is composed of the
débris of flints, such as the Kensing-
ton gravel; and this kind, which
has hitherto been found in only a
few parts of England, is sent to every
part of the world.

It must always be remembered,
that broken angular pieces of stone,

whether large or small, will bind
much better than round pebbles;
and if with the broken stones be
mixed a ferruginous clay, which is
generally of a reddish, brownish, or
yellowish colour, and the whole be
rolled immediately after it is laid
down, it will harden by exposure to
the atmosphere, and will become
quite firm and smooth. If, how-
ever, the rolling should be neglected
for a few days, the particles of
rusty earthy matter will become
hardened individually in a loose
state ; and even if rolled afterwards,
they will never become quite firm.
It must also be observed, that large
and small stones do not bind well
together ; and hence all gravel, as
soon as it is taken from the pit,
should be sifted through a wire
screen, the wires of which are only
sufficiently wide apart to admit
stones of the size of a moderately
large gooseberry, and all the larger
stones should be thrown on one side
to be broken. The gravel that has
passed through the screen should
then be examined, andif it be found
mixed with too much earthy matter,
it should be again sifted through a
wire sieve, sufficiently fine to allow
only the earth to pass through. Part
of the earthy matter should then be
well mixed with the gravel and
broken stones, in the proportion of
one-third of each, and the whole
should be laid evenly on the walk,
and rolled immediately.

When gravel walks have become
loose from time or frequent sweep-
ing, or from the gravel being
originally of a bad quality, they
may be rendered firm by forking
them over; and, after raking out
the largest of the stones, and break-
ing them, mixing the gravel with
equal parts of sand and ferruginous
clay in a somewhat moist state,
rolling the whole as soon as the

. immediately after.
gravel.

| there is nothing better than burnt

GREENHOUSE. 144 GREENHOUSE.

materials have been equally spread | wil not endure the open air of
over the walk. If, however, neither | British winters. It may be of any
sand nor ferruginous clay can be | form, but the most convenient is a
easily procured, “burnt common clay | square or a parallelogram, with
powdered may be mixed with the| upright glass in front, sufficiently
gravel; the clay having been burnt | high to admit of walking upright
by spreading it on the furnace! under it immediately within the

| will last for many years, may be |

of a hothouse, or by mixing it
with faggots, and then setting |
fire to the whole; but in this case |
also, care must be taken that the |
mixed clay and gravel are watered |
after they are laid down, and rolled |

There are various substitutes for |
Where colour is the object,
as well as firmness and smoothness,

lumps of clay, reduced to a very
coarse powder, and slightly mixed
with Roman cement. Where colour |
can be dispensed with, a most
effective garden-walk, and one which

formed of the scrapings of public
roads, which have been made, or
metalled, as road-makers term it,
with granite, or other coarse stone,
mixed with tar, laid down to the
depth of six inches on a bottom of
broken stone, and smoothly and
firmly rolled. The different kinds
of asphalte so laid down also make
smooth and durable waiks; but
they are too expensive for general
use. When no gravel can be pro-
cured, granite or other stone, broken
very small, and firmly rolled, will
make a very durable walk, though
the colour is far inferior to that of
fine yellow gravel. For laying =

walks, and the mode of preparing
the foundation of gravel walks, &c.,
see WALKS.
GREEK VALERIAN.—See Po.e-
MO‘'NIUM.
GREEN-FLY.—See A'PHIs.
GREENHOUSE. — A structure for
growing those plants in (more parti-
cularly in the winter season), which

| aspect.

glass ; and with a sloping roof, at
such an angle as readily to throw
‘off the rain. This roof, for the
better receiving the sun’s rays,
should face the south, south-east, or
south-west ; and this is called ‘the
The front should seldom
be lower than seven feet in height,

/and the height of the back should

be about. two-thirds of the width
of the house. The space within is
generally laid out so as to havea
shelf in front, about two feet high
from the ground, and two or three
feet in width ; and next there isa
path two or three feet in width;
the remainder of the floor, from the
edge of the path to the back wall,
being occupied with a series of
shelves rising one above another like
the steps of a staircase, on which
the pots of plants are to be placed.
These shelves may be nine inches or
a foot in width, and the height of one
above another may also be nine
inches or one foot. The mode by
which artificial heat is communi-

cated to such a house is by smoke |

flues, or hot-water pipes. The fire
should be at one end, or behind the
house, whichever may be most con-
venient ; and the principal flue or
hot-water pipe should be alung the
front wall, under the shelf; or, in
some cases, it may be under the
path. The reason for this position
of the flue or pipe is, that heat
always ascends ; and, consequently,
if the source of heat were placed
under the back of the house, the
heat would ascend directly to the
roof at the upper angle of the house,
and would scarcely heat the lower

GREENHOUSE. 14

-

3 GREENHOUSE.

or front part at all. In order to
admit of ventilation, the front sashes
should open outwards, or slide along
a groove ; and the roof-sashes should
also open by sliding the one over the
other. Other minor details need
not be here entered into, as they
are perfectly understood by all con-
structors of greenhouses, whether
of wood or iron. With respect to
these two materials, iron admits of
the greatest variety of shape, such
as a curvilinear ground plan and
roof, and it also admits most light ;
but the construction in wood is
most generally understood, and is
rather the cheapest. Veryexcellent
and ornamental greenhouses are
constructed in iron, and wooden

FIG. 27.—GREENHOUSE AND VINERY
OUTSIDE.

houses may be made by any carpen-
ter or joiner. A portable green-
house has lately been constructed
to place over plants in the open air,
and which consists of a stand or
frame in which some sash frames
are fixed, so as to cover a sloping
trellis below, over which some tender
or half-hardy ornamental climbers
are trained. This apparatus can
be put up at a very trifling expense,
as glass is now very cheap, and as
the frame may be made of wood
rough from the saw.

The simplest kind of greenhouse
is one only heated by manure,
which, with the shelter afforded by

the glass, is sufficient to grow grapes,
and to force flowers, so as to have
roses and lilacs, &c., at Christmas.

Kj RS .
ee aa “ at ite if i \)
U
= i

FIG, 28,—GREENHOUSE AND VINERY
INSIDE.

The outer appearance of this house
is very plain (see jig. 27) ; and it

|

may be constructed at very little |

expense. There is a wall in front

(shown at ¢ in fig.

FIG. 29.—A SMALL GREENHOUSE.

which the plants to be forced (d)
are plunged. Inside the back wall
are trained peach and nectarine
trees, or vines ; and on the outside,
vines, or cherry trees. Part of the

L

28), within |
which a dung bed is formed, into |

|
|
|
|

|

GREENHOUSE.

146 GREENHOUSE:

roof (e) is formed of boards, and
these project so as to form a coping

|
|
|
|
|
|
|

|

to the outer part of the wall. The
next advance to heating greenhouses

FIG. 30.—PORTABLE GREENHOUSE.

with manure is using smoke flues ;
and these, after having been long

P

PO

Y

|

jpeg Gy Ti

Wi,

out of fashion, are now being
partially revived ; hot water pipes,

A
Gall,

ric. 31.—CIRCULAR PORTABLE GREENHOUSE.

however, are still generally substi-
| tuted for them.

A common green-

|

house, heated by hot water, is
shown in jig. 29, which contains a

—

nee

GREENHOUSE.

147

GREENHOUSE.

propagating shelf (a) for cuttings,
as they must be near the glass. It
is not usual in greenhouses of this
shape to have any path behind the
pots ; but, in this, a concealed path
is lett at b, which may be hidden by
Thunbérgia alata, or some other
climbing plant, so as to enable the
gardener to reach easily to water
the plants on the shelf (a). The
stage may be composed of flag stones
supported by brick piers(c). There
is a front shelf for bushy ornamental
plants at: ; and the hot-water
pipes are shown at f. It is evident
in this greenhouse that smoke flues
may be easily substituted for hot-
water pipes, if they should be pre-
ferred. Portable greenhouses, of
hotbeds, have lately been invented
by the French nurserymen, for the
purpose of striking cuttings in very
small pots, a rage for little plants
of this kind having lately existed in
Paris; and having apparently
reached England, from the great
number of plants in very small pots
which are now seen in the shop
windows in London. The French
portable greenhouses are of various
forms and materials, but one of the
best is shown in jig. 30, which was
figured in the Bon Jardinier for
1844, and isa box made of wood,
about two feet across, or any other
convenient size, which may have
handles fixed for moving it at 4,
and which is covered with a com-
mon hand-glass, fixed on a board,
which covers the top of the box,
and in which are numerous holes
made for small flower-pots. Just
below this board is a zine or tin
basin (8B), which is filled with sand
or sawdust, or even moss, in which
the pots are plunged. Below this
is an open tin or zinc trough (Cc),
which is filled with water through
the funnel (Dp). A lamp is shown
at E, which is kept in its proper

place by a little tin ledge; and
which slides in and out by a door
in the side, which is fastened when
the lamp is in its place. There are
some holes at F, to supply air, to
support combustion; and two slant-
ing pieces of zinc at g, to reflect the
heat. Fig. 31 is a circular portable
greenhouse, which was figured in
the Gardener's Chronicle for Dec.,
1843. It consists of three pieces of
earthenware ; viz., the foot (a), on
which stands the basin (6), which
is surmounted by the plate (c). In
the foot (a), is placed a tin or
earthenware lamp (d). Three or
four inches above the wick is placed
a short iron cistern (e), supported
by three feet, which rest on the
bottom of the basin (6) ; it is three
inches deep, seven inches in diameter,
and is fed by a pipe and funnel ( f),
into which water is poured until it
can be seen at the bottom of the
funnel, which shows that the cistern
is full. The plate (c) is formed of
common red earthenware, and con-
sists of two circular trenches, (g g
and h h,) four inches broad, and as
much deep. These trenches are
filled with sand, and in the trench
g, are placed in two rows, eighty-
six very small pots. In the trench
h, are forty more pots; so that in
the two, nearly 130 cuttings may
be struck at one time. In the foot
(a) isa door fastened by a button,
to admit taking out the lamp, and
replacing it when needful. The
lamp is supplied with the air
necessary for combustion, by eight
holes bored at 2, by eight still
smaller ones at k, and by eight or
ten in the plate atl. There is a
metal plate pierced with holes at m,
through which the greater part of
the heat rises ; so that the troughs
h h, are much hotter than the
troughs g g, which are warmed
principally by the hollow spaces at

L2

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

148

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

n. The Hi@erence of heat istween |

the two troughs is so great, that it |

is said, hothouse plants may be
struck in the trough /, and green-
house ones in g. ‘The frame is
covered with the hand-glass p,
which of course may be removed at
pleasure. A new mode of heating
without either pipes or flues has
lately been discovered, but it has
only been applied to hothouses. See

| PoLMAISE HEATING.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS are those
which will not bear the cold of a
British winter in the open air, but
that only require to be protected from
frost. Many persons injure their
greenhouse plants by giving them too
much heat in winter, and too little
air in summer, and are thensurprised
to find their plants die, or at least
become sickly, and remain without
flowering, notwithstanding all the
care that has been bestowed upon
them. No greenhouse ought to be
kept at a greater heat at night than
from 35° to 40° during winter ; but
the thermometer ought never to be
suffered to fall below 35°. In the
day, particularly if there besunshine,
it will of course rise higher ; but the
fire should be lessened accordingly,
asthethermometer, even in sunshine,
should not rise in winter above 50°,
or at most 52° or 53°. A higher
temperature will induce premature
vegetation ; and the plant will waste
its strength in an abortive attempt
to produce flowers and seeds at a
season when its nature requires it to
be kept in a state of complete repose.
The second fault, of giving too little
air, is an equally serious one. Plants
can no more live without fresh air
than without water; and even in
winter, the sashes of a greenhouse
should be opened for an hour or two,
say from twelve till two, in the
middle of the day, whenever the sun
shines, or the frost is not too intense.

In the summer, say from: the middle
of May to the middle of September,

the plants should be set out in the
open air, the space on which they
are to stand being covered two or
three inches deep with small coal or
slack, or ashes, to prevent the worms
from creeping out of the ground into
the holes at the bottom of the pots.
In cold and damp seasons, the time
for putting out the plants may be
delayed till June; and previously
to their removal, the sashes of the
greenhouse should be left open for
a week or ten days, night and day.
Greenhouse plants should be watered
regularly every evening in summer,
and twice a day, if the weather be
very hot and dry. ‘In winter, they
should always be watered in the morn-
ing, when water is given; but this
need not beevery day. Some plants,
indeed, do not require watering
oftenerthan onceaweek. Thegeneral
ruleis, frequently to examine the pots,
and to give water whenever the earth
appears to have become dry on the
surface. Greenhouse plants should
never be suffered to stand in saucers
during winter, as stagnant water is
peculiarly injurious at that season ;
and whenever the earth in a pot looks
black and sodden with water, the
plant should be turned out of the
pot, and after the black earth has
been shaken from its roots, it should
be repotted in fresh soil, well drained
with broken crocks or cinders. In
February or March, the plants should
be looked over and repotted where
necessary ; those that are too tall
should be cut in, and cuttings made
of their shoots. The young plants
raised from cuttings made in autumn
should be repotted in larger pots for
flowering ; and where the plants do
not require fresh potting, but have
the surface of their mould become
green and mossy, the moss should
be taken off, and the ground slightly

GRINDELIA.

149

GROTTOES.

stirred with a flat stick ; taking care,
however, not to go so deep as to
injure the roots. When trouble is not
an object, all greenhouse plantsare the
better for repotting once every year,
eitherin spring or autumn; and when

the ball is taken out of the pot for |

this purpose, it should be carefully
examined, and all the decayed paris
of the roots should be cut off.
Sometimes when the ball of earth is
turned out, nearly half of it will fall

off almost without touching it ; and |

when this is the case, it will generally
be found that there is a worm in the
pot. Worms doa great deal of mis-
chief to greenhouse plants in cutting
through the roots, as their instinct
teaches them to make their way
through the earth straight across the
pot and back again ; and they cannot
do this without tearing the roots
asunder every time they pass, Ano-
ther point to be attended to in the
management of a greenhouse is,
keeping the plants as near as possible
to the glass ; as unless this be done,
the plants will become what gardeners
call ‘‘drawn up,” and unnaturally
tall and slender, from the efforts they
make to reach the light.

GREVI/LLEA.— Proteacew.—Aus-
tralian plants, with very curious
flowers, which should be grown in
a mixture of equal parts of sand,
loam, and peat. They are increased
by seeds, which ripen freely, or by
cuttings of the old wood, in sand,
under a bell-glass. Grevillea wus-
tralis with red and yellow flowers
is very nearly hardy.

Grinpe'Lia W. (Do'nta R. Br.)
— Compésite.--Perennialandannual
plants, with large showy yellow
flowers. The leaves of some of the

species are covered with a white
glutinous matter, that looks like
milk. Nearly all the species are
natives of Mexico, and they should
all be grown in a mixture of loam

and peat. The perennial species all
require the protection of a frame
during winter.

GROTTOES are covered seats, or
small cells or caves, with the sides
and roof constructed of rock-work, or
of brick or stone, covered internally
with spar-or other curious stones, and
sometimes ornamented with marine
| productions, such as corals, madre-

pores, or shells. A kind of grotto is
_also constructed of roots ornamented
with moss. Perhaps the most gene-
rally effective grotto is one formed
with blocks of stone, without orna-
ments either externally orinternally,
having the floor paved with pebbles,
and a large long stone, or a wooden
bench painted to imitate stone, as a
seat. The roof should be rendered
waterproof by means of cement, and
covered with ivy ; or a mass of earth
may be heaped over it, and planted
with periwinkle, ivy, or other low-
| growing evergreen shrubs, which may
be trained to hang down over the
mouth of the grotto. In some cases
it answers to cover grottoes with turf,
so that when seen from behind they
appear likea knoll of earth, and in
front like the entrance into a natural
‘cave. As grottoes are generally damp
at most seasons of the year, they are
more objects of ornament or curiosity
| than useful as seats or places of
repose. One of the finest grottoes in
England is that of Pain’s Hill,
formed of blocks of stone, with sta-
lactiteincrustations hanging from the
roof, and a small stream running
across the floor. Pope’s grotto at
Twickenham, the grotto at Wey-
| bridge, and that at Wimborne St.
| Giles’s, which has cost 10,000/., are
also celebrated. A fountain or a
gushing stream is a very appropriate
ornament to a grotto; though, where
practicable, it is better in an adjoin-
ing cave, when a person sitting in
the grotto can hear the murmur of

GUELDER ROSE.

the water, and see the light reflected |

150

GYPSOPHILA.

GUERNSEY Lity. —Nerinesarni-

on it at a distance, than in the | énsis Ker.—See Nert‘ye.

grotto itself.
GrounDCHERRY.—Cérasus Cha-
mecérasus.
Grounp Ivy.—See Guecno'ma.
GrounDsEL.--Senécio vulgaris. —
I mention this troublesome weed, to
enforce upon amateur gardeners the
necessity of pulling it up as soon as it
appears, without suffering it to open
its flowers, lest it should ripen any
ofits seeds, The plant belongs to the
Compésite, and the seeds are each
furnished with a feathery wing or
pappus, by means of which they are
distributed in all directions.
GROUNDSEL- TREE. — Baccharis
halimifolia.—A shrub with bluish
green leaves, and rather pretty flow-
ers, which are produced in autumn.
It will grow in any common garden-
soil, but it is killed in severe winters,
if in an exposed situation. It may
be propagated by cuttings, which will
strike if planted in the open border
in autumn ; or by layers.
Guano.--A new kind of manure,
lately introduced from South America.
It consists of the dung of sea-fowls,
collected from the Guano Islands, on
the coast of Peru ; and itis so strong
that a table- spoonful of it dissolved
in water willgoas faras threetrowels-
ful of horse dun g. Itmay be used for
Orange-trees, Pelargoniums, Heart’s-
ease, Fuchsias, and any other plants
requiringrich soil. In general, how-
ever, it is most efficacious to grass
land, and it may also be used with
advantage in a kitchen- garden. In
these cases the proportion is four
ounces of guano toa gallon of water ;
but this is much too strong for green-

| house plants, and for them half an

ounce of guano to a gallon of water
will be as strong as it will be safe to
gwe them.
Gua‘va.—See Psr’pium.
GUELDER Rosz.—See Visv' RNUM.

Gum ARABIC TREE. — Acacia
vera, or arabica.—See Aca‘cra.

Guu Cisrus.—Cistus cyprius, Or
ladaniferus.—See Crstvs.

Gutta PE‘rcHA.—This isa kind
of gum somewhat similar to the
Caoutchouc or India Rubber, but
which possessesthe remarkable “phy-
sical property of becoming quite soft
at the temperature of boiling water,
without being in any way adhesive,
and on cooling recovering its primi-
tive hardness.” The Niato or Gutta
Percha tree of the Malay Peninsula,
is said by some botanists to be a
species of Bassia, but Dr. Lindley
pronounces it to bea species of the
genus Isonandra, both genera belong-
ing to the natural order Sapotacez.
Mr. Low, however, thinks thatseveral
trees in Borneo will produce a similar
juice. The gum is said to be de-
posited in layers in the wood, and to
be obtained only by cutting down the
tree; but as it is also said to flow
wh en numerous incisions are made in
the bark, it is to be hoped that some
less wasteful mode of procuring it
than cutting down the tree will soon
be devised. The words Gutta Percha
belong to the Malay language, and
signify ‘*ragged gum”—thec/ in the
word Percha being pronounced as in
perch.

GyMNosTacHyuM.—A canthacee.
—A Ceylon plant with inconspicuous
yellow flowers, but showy leaves,
with milk white midrib, and side
veins on a dark green ground.
Introduced in 1853.

GypsocaLLis Sal.—Zricacee.—
The Moor, or Cornish Heath, sepa-
rated from the genus Erica by Salis-
bury.—For culture, see Err‘ca.

Gypso’PHILA. — Caryophyllacce,
or Silendicee.—Small-flowered creep-
ing or trailing plants, annuals and
perennials, which requireacalcareous

ah

HAMANTHUS.

151

HALIMODENDRON.

soil, and are well adapted for rock-
work.

Gypsum. —Sulphate of lime, com-
monly called plaster of Paris.

ABENA‘RIA.—Orchidacee.—
Hardy North American peren-
nials, with tuberous roots, and very
curiously-shaped flowers, which are
generally yellow, but sometimes
purple, andsometimes white. They
grow best in a shady situation, and
in a peat soil, kept rather moist
than dry.
Hapra’NTHUS.—Amaryllidacee.
—Bulbous-rooted piants (some of
which will thrive in the open grounds
though others require a greenhouse,
and others a stove), the culture of
which exactly resembles that of the
Amaryllis. The flowers are also
similar, though very much smaller;
and, as in the Amaryllis, they are
produced before the leaves. The
Habranthusappears to exemplify the

stems ; for we are told by the late
Hon. and Rey. W. Herbert ( Bot. Mag.
t. 257), that the bulbs of this species,
though round when imported, after
having been potted a year, become
gradually elongated. Plants of this
genus are generally grown in a mix-
ture of sandy loam and peat; and

for the details of their culture, see |

AMARY’LLIS.
HABROTHA’MNUS. —Cestr'dcee.—
Very elegant Mexican shrubs, bearing

a profusion of rose-coloured tube-like |

flowers in the middle of winter. A
plant of H. élegans, planted in the
freeground of theconservatory in the
Botanic Garden in the Regent’s Park,
is splendidly in flower for at least
eight months in every year.
Haman’tHus.—Amaryllidacee.
—Bulbous greenhouse plants, with
large red flowers of very singular

very coarse-growing, and take up a
great deal of room. AH. multzflorus
is, however, an exception, as it is
rather pretty.

H&MATOXYLON. — Leguminose.
—The Logwood. This tree, which
grows about twenty feet high in its
native country is a stove shrub in
Britain. It has yellow flowers, and
should be grown in a mixture of peat
and loam.

Hake. --Proteacee.--Australian
shrubs, with flowers somewhat resem-
bling those of the Grevillea, which
are frequently sweet-scented. The
plants are generally kept in the green-
house; they should be grown in peat
andsand mixed with alittle loam, and
the pots should be well drained, and
never suffered to become either too
wet or too dry. See AUSTRALIAN
SHRUBS.

Hate'sta. — Halesidcee. — The
Snowdrop-tree. American low trees,
which generally form very handsome

hardy shrubs in British pleasure-
doctrine of bulbs being under-ground |

grounds. The reason of this is, that
in North America the species all

_ grow on the banks of rivers, in very

poor rocky soil, whereas in England
they are grown in dry places in rich
soil ; and too much nourishment toa
tree which does notrequire it, has the
same effect as too much animal food

to a child—it makes it increase in |

width instead of height.
drop-tree flowers freely, and its stem
droops gracefully over water. The
flowers are white, and resemble those
of the Snowdrop ; and the seed is

The Snow- |

curiously winged. The species will |

grow in any soil or situation, but
they all prefer a poor soil near water,
and a sandy situation. They are
generally propagated by layers,

though they all ripen seed abun- |

dantly in England.
HALIMODENDRON. --Leguminose.
—The Salt-tree. H. argénteum Dec.

ppearance, but no beauty. Theyare | (Robinia Halodéndron Lin.), is a

ee |

HARDENBERGIA.

152

HARES AND RABBITS.

Siberian hardy shrub, which will
| grow in any soil or situation. When
graftedstandard high ona Laburnum,
it forms a very handsome drooping
tree, with silvery leaves and purple
flowers.

HamamMe'Lis.—Hamamelidacee.
—The Witch Hazel. Ahardy shrub,
a native of North America, which
will grow freely in any soil that is
not too rich, though it prefers a dry
_ stony gravel. It has the peculiarity
of flowering during winter, beginning
to expand its rich deep yellow flowers
just as its leaves are falling off, and
| dropping its flowers whenits branches
| begin to be re-clothed with leaves in
spring.

HaAND-BILL.--An instrument used
in pruning hedges.

HaAND-GLASSES.—Portable frames
or covers, formed of iron, zinc, or
wood, and glazed. These glasses
differ from bell-glassesin beinglonger,
and composed of numerous small
pieces of glass, which are fastened
together by narrow strips of lead.
Hand-glasses are generally square,
but they may be made of an octagon,
or any other shape that may ke most
convenient ; and they are sometimes
made with a pane to open to admit
air, or with the upper part to take
off. This is very convenient ; for
as hand-glasses are chiefly used for
protecting half-hardy plants during
winter, which it is necessary to give
air to every fine day, it is found very
troublesome to be obliged to lift the
hand-glass off the plant, and to lay it
_ on one side whenever this is done.
Bell-glasses, on the contrary, being
| prineipally for preventing the evapo-
ration of moisture from the leaves of
cuttings, do not require any opening,
as the plants seldom want any air till
they have rooted.

HARDENBE’RGIA.—Leguminose.
—Anewnamegiven by Mr. Bentham
to Kenédya monophglla, and five

other species of that genus, which
have small purplish flowers.

HARDY Puiants are all those that
will stand the open air in British
gardens without the slightest pro-
tection ; half-hardy ones are those
that may be planted in the open
ground, but require the protection
of a mat or hand-glass ; and tender,
those that must be kept during winter
in a hotbed or plant-house heated by
artificial means. Greenhouse and
frame-plants are those grown in pots,
which require protection from the
frost during winter ; and stove-
plants are those grown in a hothouse
all the year.

HAREBELL,—It is rather curious,
that though few poets can write a
sonnet without mentioning the Hare-

bell, and though it is sure to be intro- |

duced in every eloquent prose descrip-
tion of country scenery, botanists
cannot exactly decide what plant is
meant by the name—some supposing
it to be the beautiful little blue Cam-
panula rotundifolia, and others, the
wild Hyacinth, Sctlla non-scripta.
The fact is, that both plants are now
known by the name in different parts
of Britain ; but as the original word
is said to have been ‘‘air-bell,” itis
most probable thatit was the Campa-
nula that was first so designated, and
that is alluded to by the poets ; as
the tender blue of its flowers is so
near the colour of the skies, as not
to require any great exertion of
poetic fancy to call it a bell of air,
and as its slender stem has sufficient

elasticity to rise again when lightly |

trodden on.

HaRes AND Rapsits do a great
deal of mischief in flower gardens, as
they are very fond of devouring many
flowering plants—particularly Pinks
and Carnations. They arealso very
fond of young plants of Laburnum in
the shrubberies, and of Parsley inthe
kitchen-garden, The usual way of

—— -—

a = =

HAWEKEWEED.

153

HEART'S-EASE.

protecting Pinks and Carnations is,
by an invisible wire-fence, or by a
net-work of black worsted, supported
at intervals by blackened wires; but
the young plantations are generally
protected by common netting, sup-
ported by notched stakes. Some
persons sow Parsley near their Car-
nations, in the hope that the hares
will eat that in preference ; but it
often proves injurious, as the smell
of the Parsley attracts more hares
than would otherwise discover the
Carnations, and thus, the Parsley
being soon devoured, the Carnations
are destroyed.
Harr’s-EAR.—See BurLev’RumM.
Hare’s-root Frern.—Duvdllia
canariénsis.—A very curious exotic
Fern, the roots of which grow out of
the pot, and closely resemble a hare’s
foot. It is a native of the Canaries,
and should be grown in sand and
peat.
Harvt’s-TONGUE.—Scolopéndrium
oficinariwm.—One of the handsomest
of the British Ferns, from its broad
tongue-shaped leaves. It grows in
marshy places. It is called Scolo-
péndrium from its roots bearing some
resemblance to the little luminous
insect Scolopéctra elécirica.
Hatcuet Vetcu.—Coronilla Se-
curidaca, now called Securigera
Coronillia.—A coarse-growing hardy
annual, which takes up a great deal
of room, from its large, rough, and
widely-spreading leaves and stems:
while it can boast of little beauty in
its single yellow pea-flowers. It will
grow in any soil or situation.
Havurtm.—The dead stalks and
leaves of peas, potatoes, &c. It is
generally gathered up, and carried to
the rubbish heap to rot for manure,
or burnt. It is also sometimes used
for covering the ground over the roots
of trees, &c., to keep out the frost.
— HawkwEED. --The plants properly
called Hawkweed belong to the genus

| Hieracium ; they have generally

——— SE

yellow flowers, and many of them are
British weeds ; the yellow Hawkweed
of the gardens (T6lpis barbata),and
the red Hawkweed (Borkhaisia ri-
bra), are however, quite distinct.
They are both hardy annuals, which
only require sowing in the open bor-
der; and one of which (the yellow)
will stand the winter in the open
ground without protection, if sown in
autumn. The red-coloured kind is
very apt to become drawn up with

long slender stems, and requires |

staking and tying to make it look
well.—See Cre'pis.

HaAWwtTHorn.— Crate gus
cantha,—See Cratz aus.

Haze..—Corylus Avellana.--The
common Hazel is rather a fruit-tree
than an ornamental shrub ; but it is
sometimes grown in pleasure-grounds
and geometric gardens, to form a
shady walk. Walks of this kind
were great favourites in the time of
Elizabeth, and also in the Dutch
gardens laid out in the time of Wil-
liam III. Theyare therefore suitable
inthe gardens of Elizabethan houses,
or of any mansions builtin James I.’s
style. They require no particular
care but planting the young trees in
a loamy soil, giving them, if possible,
a little of that rich yellow soil gene-
rally called hazelloam, forits peculiar
adaptation to this plant, and clipping
and training the branches so as to
make the walk form one continued
bower.

HEART'S-EASE, or Pansy.—Most
of the different kinds now in cultiva-
tion have sprung partly from the
wild kind, Viola trécolor, hybridised
by some other species ; and as all the
kinds, whether hybrids or species,
vary very much when raised from
seeds, and as these varieties and hy-
brids may be readily cross-bred with
each other, the number of kinds that
may be raised defies all calculation.

Oxya-

HEAT.

154

HEDERA.

The Heart’s ease must be grown in
very rich soil, composed, if in pots
or boxes, of four parts of rich loam,
one of sand and one of decayed
leaves or rotten dung ; andif in the
open ground, of rich loam highly
manured. It is propagated byseeds,
or division of the root. The seeds,
should be sown as soon as they are
ripe in a bed, where the young plants
should remain till they flower, when
the best should be taken up and re-
planted in another bed, or in well-
drained pots or boxes, for flowering.
The plants will require constant wa-
tering during the hot weather ; but
they are very apt to damp off, if the
soil in which they grow has not been
well drained. Thebest varieties are
propagated by cuttings taken off from
the points of the shoots, in the spring,
cuttingthem clean acrossimmediately
below a joint. The cuttings should
be struck in pure white sand, and
covered witha bell-glass; they should
not be watered when put in, and they
should be shaded for several days.
Heart’s-eases_are also propagated by
layers, pegged down at a joint, but
not slit, on account of their tendency
to damp off.

HEAat is concentrated or produced
in gardens in a variety of ways: by
shelter from winds, which prevents
the natural heat of plants from being
carried off by currents of air passing
over them ; by exposure to the sun,
which concentratesitsrays; by cover-
ing a surface of soil or the roots and
stems of plants with anon-conducting
material, such asstraw, litter, leaves,
&c., which prevents itsradiation; by
fermenting substances, suchas stable-
dung, litter, leaves, tan, &c., which
produce heat by their decomposition;
and by the consumption of fuel, from
which the heated air generated is
conducted in flues, or by means of
pipes of hot water or steam. Hot-
beds are generally heated by a bed of

horse-dung, or other fermenting ma-
terial ; and brick-built pits, or houses
with glass roofs, are heated by fur-
naces and flues, or furnaces, boilers,
and pipes of hot water or steam.
Stable-dung and hot-water pipes are
the two best modesof heating pits and
glass-roofed houses. Heat when pro-
duced is retained by coverings which
admit the light, such as glass sashes,
or in some cases frames covered with
oil-paper, or with very thin canvas
or gauze.

HeEatuH.—See Err'ca.

HEATH-MOULD is very frequently
confounded with peat-bog by amateur
gardeners ; but the fact is they are
materially different. Black peat,
which consists of vegetable fibre, pre-
vented from decomposing by a super-
abundance of water, is unfit for the
growth of plants when ina pure state ;
but heath-mould, or peat mixed with
sand, is admirably adapted for the
growthofall Australianand American
hair-rooted plants, as the mixture of
sand with the peat prevents its re-
tention of water, and it is only the
retention of water that prevents the
decomposition of the vegetable matter
it contains. —See Prat-Boe.

Her’pEerRA.—Araliacee, --Thelvy.
This well-known plant is what bota-
nists call a rooting climber ; that is
to say, its stems climb up and twine
themselves round trees, or any other
suitable object which presents a suffi-
ciently rough surface for their roots
to take hold of ; as, unless this is the
case, the Ivy, whenever it is rendered
heavy by rain or snow, falls down.
Whenever, therefore, Ivy is wanted
to cover smooth, newly plastered
walls, trellis work should be fixed
against them, to which the Ivy should
be nailed like any other plant. The
Ivy is remarkable for undergoing a
complete change in its leaves when it
flowers. The barren or creeping Ivy,
which trails along the ground, and

eo a a = = Se

yeh testes

HEDGES.

roots into it, rarely flowers, and its
leaf is deeply cut ; but the tree Ivy,
or flowering part, rears itself on high,
so as to be fully exposed to the light
and air and the leaves become of an
oval shape. H. Canariénsis, the
giant, or Irish Ivy, as it is sometimes
called, though it is a native of the
Canaries, is hardier and grows much
faster than the common kind ; but
the variegated kinds are more tender,
and grow much slower. Ivy requires
a deep and somewhat light soil, into
which its roots can penetrate easily ;
and when grown for any purpose in
pots or boxes, itshould beabundantly
supplied with water. Ivy is useful
in all cases where a naked space is to
becovered with green in a short space
oftime; anditis particularly valuable
in town gardens, as it will bear the
smoke and want of pure air in cities
better than most other plants. It
should, however, in all close and
crowded situations, be abundantly
supplied with water, and occasionally
syringed over the leaves. The gold
and silver varieties are very beau-
tiful, especially the former, when
grown against the chimney of a
dwelling-house or hothouse ; but
they require warmth to make them
thrive.

HepcEnocs.— Medicago minima.
—Anannual plant, with smallyellow
pea-flowers, and curiously shaped
capsules, which resemble hedgehogs.
The plant is weedy-looking, and not
worth growing.

Hepce Mustarp.—See Ery’st-
MUM.

Hepcr NetrLe.—See Sra'cuys.

Henpess for flower-gardens should
be composed of ornamental plants,
such as Cydonia Japénica, Privet,
Laurustinus, ibes sanguineum,
Roses, and double-blossomed Furze,
or Ivy and other climbers, trained
over iron trellis-work. The hedge
to a flower-garden should never be

155

HELIANTHEMUM.

stiff and formal, so as to look like a
mere barrier; but it should be so
arranged, and should consist of plants
which harmonise so well with the
flowers in the garden, as to make

themappearapartofit. Forfurther |

details on this subject, see FENCEs.

Hepy’cHium. — Scitaminee. —
Garland-flower.—Large reed-looking
plants with splendid flowers, but
which are only suitable for large
places, as they require the heat of a
stove, and a great deal of room, to
make them flower well. They are
natives of the East Indies. WH.
coronarium, which is one of the
commonest kinds, has large white
flowers, which are exceedingly fra-
grant. All the kinds require a light
rich soil, and are increased by divi-
ding the roots.

Hepy’sarum. — Leguminose. —
The French Honeysuckle. — The
species are mostly hardy biennials
and perennials, which require only
the usual treatment of their respective
kinds.
rich light soil, and they are increased
by division of their roots and byseeds.

HELE'NIuM. — Compésite.— The
species are generally tall-growing
perennial plants, with large yellow
flowers. They are increased by di-
viding the root. There are two or
three annual species which are quite
hardy, and only require sowing in the
open border. The handsomest of
these is H. quadridentatum, which
has bright orange-coloured flowers,
like a Rudbéckia.

HELIA/NTHEMUM. — Cistaceee.—
The Sun-rose.—Low shrubs, gene-
rally used for planting on rock-work,
and strongly resembling the Cistus
or Rock-rose. As most of the species
arerather tender, they require protec-
tion during winter. For this reason,

‘they are either grown in pots, which

are placed upon rock-work among
the stones ; or taken up and repotted

They will grow well in any |

HELIOTROPE.

156

HELIX.

in winter, to be planted out again in

spring. The soil should be a com-
post of loam and peat. They are
generally increased by seeds, which
they ripen in abundance.

HELta’NTHUS.—Compésite.--The
Sun-flower.—The annual plant ofthis
name, though a native of Peru, isone
of the hardiest of its kind, as it only
requires sowing in the open border in
any common garden-soil. It is not,
however, suitable for every situation,
unless there be abundance of room,
on account of the large size of its
stalks and leaves. The perennial
kinds are much smaller, and very
ornamental; they are quite hardy,
and will grow inanysoilandsituation.

HELICcHRY'sUM. —: Compésite. -—
The Everlasting.—The common yel-
low Everlasting, H. bracteatum, isa
hardy annual that only requires sow-
ing in the open border; H. bicolor
is a very slight variety, merely diff-
ering in having the outer petals tipped
with copper colour; but H. macrdn-
thum has white flowers tipped with
pink, and is very handsome. This
species is a native of the Swan River
Colony, and it should be grown ina
light peaty soil. It may either be
sown in the open ground in April, to
flower in autumn, or in a hotbed in
February, to plant out in May.

He ico'nta.—Musacee.—Splen-
did hothouse plants, which require
a rich sandy loam, and plenty of
room and heat, to bring them to
perfection. They are propagated
by division of the root.

HeELio’pHita. — Cruciferae. —
Beautiful little annual plants, na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope,
generally with blue flowers, and
very long slender stems. Theseeds
should be sown on a hotbed in
February, and the plants planted
out in a warm open situation in May.

HELIoTROPE. — See HELIoTRO'-
PIUM.

HELIOTRO'PIUM.——Boraginec.
—The Heliotrope is a favourite
flower in most countries, from its
fragrance, which, however, is over-
powering, and very unpleasant to
those not accustomed to strong per-
fumes. It should be grown in a
light rich soil; and though it re-
quires protection during winter, it
may be planted out in May, when
it will flower splendidly in the open
air, till destroyed by frost in au-
tumn. Itis propagated by cuttings,
which strike easily. Anew species
of Heliotrope has been lately in-
troduced, called H. Voltaireanum,
which has very rich dark purple
flowers. It requires the same
treatment as the old kind,

Hetrx.—The Snail.—Snails are
so destructive to gardens, and par-
ticularly to those of small size, that
too much care cannot be taken to
destroy them. The best time for
effecting this is in winter or early
spring, when the snails are in a
quiescent state, and when they will
be found in great numbers sticking
to the walls, under ivy, &c.; in
box-edgings ; or in the crevices of

| wedi rebel &ce. In spring, the
warmth and moisture induce them
to leave their hiding-places, and
they commence their work of de-
struction. At this season, they
should be sought for in the daytime,
in the same kind of places as those
they select for their winter retreats,
and, if possible, destroyed before
they lay their eggs, which they do
in April or May. The eggs, which
are buried in the earth in some
rather moist and shady place, and
which are whitish, and quite round
and transparent, should be sought
for and destroyed in May or June.
By these means the ravages of
snails may be in a great measure
| prevented ; and there will be no
; occasion to resort to watering the

a

HEPATICA. 15

beds with lime or tobacco water—
remedies which, unless very judi-
ciously practised, are in fact worse
than the disease. Many persons
place empty flower-pots in different
parts of a garden infested with
snails, at night; and when this is
done, a great number of snails will
generally be found either in the
pots, or sticking to the outside in
the morning. Cabbage leaves and
slices of raw potatoes are also laid
as traps for snails.

HELLE’Borus. — Ranunculdcee.
—The Christmas Rose, H. niger,
is one of the handsomest plants
belonging to this genus, on account
of its flowering in winter, or very
early spring, before almost every
other flower. It is a hardy peren-
nial, which will thrive in any
common garden-soil, and is in-
creased by dividing the roots.
There is a greenhouse species, H.
atrorubens, which is very orna-
mental.

HELMET-FLOWER.—See Corya/N-
THES.

HeEMEROCA'LLIS.—The Day Lily.
—Handsome perennial plants, with
yellow or copper-coloured flowers.
They are quite hardy, and only
require a moist soil and a shady
situation. They are propagated by
dividing the roots. For the white
and purplish-flowered kinds, see
Fo/NKIA.

HEN-AND-CuicKENS.—A kind of
Daisy.—See Br’ixts.

HENBANE.— Hyoscyamus niger.

HENFRE'YA.—A canthacee.—H.
scandens is a very handsome climb-
ing stove plant, a native of West
Africa, with whitish Petunia-like
flowers, and dark green leaves.

Hepa’tica. — Ranunculacee. —
Pretty little plants, which flower
very early in spring. They should
be grown in a light sandy soil, and
a shady situation; and as they

faa

/ HERBERTIA.

have a propensity to raise them-
selves out of the soil, they should
be taken up every two or three
years in autumn, and replanted.
If this be not done, the earth
should be raked up or hoed up
round them, so as to cover the
roots ; as, if these are left exposed,
they will wither, and the plants
will probably die. The flowers of
the Hepatica, unlike those of. most
other plants, possess their full
colour from the first formation of
the bud.

HERACLE'UM. — Umbellifere. —
The Cow-parsnep. — The gigantic
Siberian Cow-parsneps, H. dsperum
and H. gigantéum, are probably
two of the most magnificent herba-
ceous plants in the world. They
are biennials, and are propagated
by seeds, which ripen in abundance.
The plants should be placed ina
shady, moist situation, near a pond,
if possible ; and, where this is not
practicable, they should have abun-
dance of water. Thus treated, a
plant has been known to attain the
height of fourteen feet in a single
summer, with a fluted stem six or
eight inches in diameter; and a
compound umbel of white flowers,
measuring twelve feet in circum-
ference. A plant of these dimen-
sions, with leaves equally enormous,
grew in the grounds of Bromley
Hill in the summer of 1839; and
another of nearly the same size
grew in our small garden at Bays-
water in the summer of 1840,

HERBE’RTIA.—/ridew.—A beau-
tifal bulbous plant named in honour
of the late Honourable and Reverend
William Herbert, whose botanical
labours are so well known. It isa
native of Buenos Ayres, and it may
be grown either in a pot, or in the
open air, in a sandy loam, as it only
requires protection from severe frost
or long continued rains.

|
|
|
|
}
|

|
|
|
|
|

| very rich soil, which must be of a

HEXACENTRIS.

158

HOE.

HeErB-RoBERT.—A kind of wild |
Geranium, very common by the
road-sides throughout England and
the north of France.

HeEron’s Bitt.—See Ero‘pium.

Hespera’NTHA.— [ridee.— The |
Evening Flower.—A genus of Cape |
bulbs, nearly allied to I’xia, and |
requiring the same treatment.

He’sPeris. — Crucifere. — The |
Garden Rocket. — These flowers, |
though very common, are rarely |
well grown, as they require a great
deal of care to bring them to per-
fection. They are all perennials ;
and as soon as they have done
flowering, they should be taken up,
and transplanted into fresh and

light and friable nature. The best
is, perhaps, that which has been
used during the preceding summer

for celery trenches. Thus treated,
the double white and double purple
varieties of H. matrondlis will
attain an extraordinary size, and
will flower splendidly.
HEXACE’NTRIS. —A canthacee. —
This genus has been separated from
Thunbergia, principally on account
of the shaggy anthers of the flowers.
The name of Hexacéntris, which

| signifies ‘*‘six spurs,” alludes to
co) 9

the spurs proceeding from the base
of the anthers. This genus was
little known iill the exhibition of

a splendid creeping plant called |

Hexacéniris mysorénsis at the May
show at Chiswick in 1852. It was
trained over an umbrella-shaped
trellis, from which its beautiful
crimson and yellow flowers hung
down in Jong racemes, forming a
kind of fringe. The pendulous
racemes of flowers grow from a foot

to two feet long, and they are
covered with bunches of flowers
and buds. The plant is a native
of the East Indies, and of course

Hipse’rt1a, — Dilleniacee. —
Trailing shrubs with large yellow
flowers, natives of New Holland,
which require a greenhouse in Eng-
land. They should be grown ina
mixture of sandy loam and peat,
and they are propagated by cuttings.

Hisr'scus.— Malvaceee.— Showy
plants with large handsome flowers,
of which the hothouse species, which
are mostly from China, require a
strong moist heat. Hibiscus syria-
cus, the Althea frutex, is a hardy
shrub, which will grow well in any
common garden-soil, and of which
there are numerous splendid varie-
ties ; some of the best being those
raised by Mr. Masters, of Canter-
bury. The Althe‘a fridtex is pro-
pagated by seeds or layers. Several
of the different kinds of Hibiscus
are marsh plants, which grow best
in pots suspended in water from
the side of a pond.—See WarTER-
PLANTS.

Hi/npsta.— Rubiacee.— A new
genus formed on the purple-flow-
ered kinds of Rondelétia. H. vio-
lacea is a very splendid stove shrub,
introduced in 1844.

Hip.— The fruit of the wild
Rose.

Hiprra’sTRUM.—A genus nearly
allied to Amaryllis.

Hippo’pHar. — Eleagnicee. —
Sea-Buckthorn.—Handsome hardy
shrubs, natives of North America,
which will grow in any common
soil, and are increased by layers.

Hrervu'‘ris.—-Haloragee.—Mare's-
tail.— A British aquatic ; some-
times planted in ponds, &c., to
hide their termination, and to give
the water the appearance of a natu-
ral stream.

Hor.— There are many different
kinds ; but they may all be reduced
to two classes: the draw-hoes,

_which have broad blades, and are
requires a hothouse in this country. |

used for drawing up the earth to

HOTBEDS.

the roots of plants, being pulled to |
the operator ; and the thrust or
Dutch hoes, which are principally
used for loosening the ground and
destroying the weeds, and which
the operator pushes from him.

HoEIne is an operation used for
loosening the earth, and destroying
weeds, where both digging and
forking would be injurious to the
roots of the plants forming the
crop. It is also used to draw the
earth up to those plants which send
out numerous fibrous roots close to
the surface of the ground. This
last operation is called hoeing up,
and it is generally practised with
annual culinary crops.

Horty.—See ‘nex.

HotiyHock.—See ALTHZ'A.

Honesty.—See Luna’ria.

Honey Dew is a clammy sub-
stance often found on the leaves of
trees and shrubs in hot weather ;
and it is by some supposed to be
produced by insects, and by others
to be exuded by the tree. What-
ever may be its cause, it does injury
by stopping up the pores of the
leaves ; and it should be washed off
as soon as it is discovered.

HoONEY-FLOWER.—See ME.taA’N-
THUS.

HONEYSUCKLE.—See CaPriFo'Lt-
um and Loni’cERA.

HonEYWort.—See Ceri/NTHE.

Hoop-Petticoat. — A kind
Narcissus, NV. Bulbocddiwm.

Hop.—See Hu‘muuvs.

Horn or PLtenty.—See Fr'pia.

Horn-Popry.—See GLavu’cIumM.

Horns.—See Fe'pra.

HORSE-CHESNUT.—See ’/scuLus
and Pa‘via.

Horseps are formed of dung, or
any other vegetable fermenting ma-
terial ; but stable dung is in most
general use, and is by far the best.
When newly brought from the
stables, it should be laid in a heap

of

159

HOTBEDS.

or ridge, five feet or six feet in
width, and four feet or five feet in
height ; and after lying three or
four days, till a brisk fermentation
has taken place, it should be turned
over, taking care to place what was
outside in the interior ; and after a
few days more, when a second
fermentation has taken place, and
the straw has become so tender as
to be easily torn asunder with a
fork, the dung may be made up
into a bed. This bed should be
formed on a platform of soil, six or
eight inches above the general sur-
face, to preserve it from wet; and
it should be of such a length and
breadth as to suit the frame or
bottomless box which is to be
placed upon it. For raising tender
annuals, or striking cuttings, the
depth of the bed of dung need not
be more than two feet, if it be early
in the season—for example, in
February ; but if the bed be not
prepared till April, it need not be
made above one foot in thickness.
When the bed is formed, the upper
surface should be perfectly level, or
slightly sloping to the south; and it
should be three or four inches wider
than the frame on every side. After
the frame is set, the surface of the
bed may be covered with six inches
of light soil, on which the seeds may
be sown; or, what will generally be
found preferable, the seeds may be
sown in pots, and plunged in this
soil, care being taken that the heat
of the bed is not too great, and that
the seedlings, when they come up,
do not suffer for want of air. There
are thermometers for trying the
temperature of earth or dung by
plunging them into it; and there
are others for trying the tempera-
ture of the air; but a very little
experience will render these un-
necessary. The soil should not be
warmer than 60°, or the air than

eee a a a ee

HOTHOUSES.

160

HOYA.

65° or 70°, even during bright sun-

_ shine ; but if, during the night, it

_ sible, on dry soil.

falls as low as 45° or 50°, no bad
consequences will ensue. In severe
weather, the sashes may be pro-
tected at night with mats, boards,
canvas, or hurdles, covered with
thatch or reeds. Hotbeds should
always be placed ina sheltered situa-
tion, open to the south, and, if pos-
When the heat of

| the dung begins to fall low, it may
be renewed by exterior linings, which |

are narrow masses of fermenting
dung placed round the main bed of

_ dung ; but for raising flower-seeds
_ this is seldom necessary.

Horuovuses differ from green-

| houses in being kept at a higher
| temperature, so as to suit tropical
| plants; and in having a flat bed
_ for the principal part of the plants
| to stand on, instead of a sloping

stage of shelves. This bed is com-

_ monly surrounded by a narrow brick

wall, two or three feet high, and filled
with tan, in which the plants are

_ plunged ; but in some cases, instead

of tan, or any other fermenting

| material, there is a cavity beneath

the bed, in which flues or pipes of
hot water are placed; and the sur-
face of the bed is either covered

| with sand, or some other material

calculated to retain an equality of
moisture, in which the pots are
plunged in the same manner as in
the tan.
use any materials in which to plunge

_ the pots, but merely set them on the

general heat of the air of the house,

or the heat emitted through the

bottom of the pit from the pipes or
flues below, taking care to keep the
surface of the bed on which the pots

_ stand moist, by pouring water over

it at least oncea day. The heat of
hothouses for ordinary tropical plants

Some cultivators do not |
'which drops a sweet, honey-like
| Juice.
| surface of the bed, trusting to the |
is propagated by cuttings, which,

year be lower than 65°; but in
summer, during bright sunshine,
it may be as high as 70°, 80°, or
90°. During winter it should never

_be lower than 60° in the daytime.
'In hothouses devoted to the growth

of orchideous plants, a higher tem-
perature is requisite than for the

ordinary plants of the tropics, and

also a proportionately greater de-

_ should at no period of the day or |

gree of moisture ; and in order to
attain the latter object, the floor of
the house, or the hot water pipes,
should be frequently sprinkled with
water.
Horro'nra.—Primulacee.—The
Feather Foil, or Water Violet.—An
aquatic British plant, which pro-
duces a pretty effect, from its pink
flowers, on the borders of ponds and
ditches where the soil is gravelly.
Hounn’s Toncur.—See Cyno-
GLO’SSUM.
HovusELEEK.—SeeSEmMPERVI'VUM.
Ho'vea. — Leguminose.— Beau-
tiful dwarf shrubs, natives of Aus-
tralia, which require a greenhouse
in Great Britain. They should be
grown in a mixture of sandy loam
and peat ; and they may be propa-
gated by cuttings, which are rather
difficult to strike ; and which should,
therefore, be put under a bell-glass,
in pure sand, and plunged into a
hothed.
Hoy’a. — Aseclepiadacew. — The
most common species, H. carnésa,
has curious wax-like flowers, from

It is a hothouse climber,
which requires a light rich soil, and

however, will not strike without
the help of bottom-heat. It is
sometimes grown in greenhouses, if
in a warm situation, exposed to the
sun. In this case, it should be
trained close to the glass, and a
mat, or some other covering, thrown
over the roof of the house in severe

HYACINTHUS.

weather. H. imperidlis is a very |
splendid climbing plant, with very |
rich dark- -purple flowers, which are |
the more conspicuous from the ivory
white of the central column. The
flowers are sometimes three inches
in diameter. It is impossible to
describe the singular richness of the
flowers of this plant to any one who
has not seen them. JH. picta auréa
is also very handsome. JH. bélla
can scarcely be called a climber, as
its general appearance resembles a
myrtle. The corolla of the flowers
is of a pure white, and the crown of
a deep purple, ‘‘resembling an ame-
thyst set in frosted silver.” It was
introduced in 1848. The flowers
are very small, but very abundant.

Hou'mMea.—Compésite. — Elegant
biennial plants, which should be
sown on a slight hotbed in spring;
then potted off, and kept in the open
air during summer, and in the green-
house during winter, to be finally
planted in the open border in May
the second year. If the plants are
repotted three or four times during
the course of the first summer,
always into only a little larger pots,
they will become so much stronger

_before they are finally planted out
as amply to repay the additional
trouble.

Hu‘uutvus. — Urticacee. — The
Hop.—tThis plant, though generally
grown for the purpose of making
beer, is a very ornamental climber,
and very suitable for covering bowers,
&c., from the great rapidity of its
growth, and the deep shade afforded
by its large and numerous leaves.
It should be grown in a rich and
deep loamy soil, and it is increased
by dividing its roots.

HyacintH.—See Hyaci’ntruvs.

Hyacr’ntaus. — Asphodélee. —
The common garden Hyacinth, Hy-
acinthus orientalis, is one of the
most beautiful as well as the most

161

HYACINTHUS.

_ fragrant of flowers ; and, to a certain
_ extent, is almost one of the easiest
| of culture for the amateur gardener.

The reason of this is, that the bulbs
are generally to be purchased at an
easy rate in the seed-shops, and the
leaves and flowers being prepared in

the bulb during the previous year,

it is only necessary to place the
bulbs in soil of any kind, or even
on the surface of vessels of water,
to produce a very fine flower. But
this will not insure a bloom in the
following year, because that depends
not only on the plant being placed
in circumstances where it will flower
freely, but also where it will produce
abundance of healthy leaves, and
bring these to maturity. This is
only to be done in beds properly
prepared for the purpose, and under
a proper system of management.
We shall first speak of the most
common mode of growing Hyacinths,
viz.—in miscellaneous borders ;
next, of the most perfect mode of
growing them, viz.—in beds of
properly prepared soil ; and, lastly,
of growing them in glasses of water.

Growing Hyacinths in miscella-
neous borders, among other flowers.
—Fix on the spots where they are
to be planted, and loosen the earth
to the depth of a foot with the
spade, breaking it fine, and taking
care that the roots of the adjoining
plants are cut off, so as not to inter-
fere with those of the Hyacinths.
Remove three or four inches of the
soil, and then deposit three or four
bulbs, one in the centre and the
others round it, so as to form a
circle not more than six inches in
diameter. Press the bulbs firmly
into the soil, and cover them, three
or four inches deep, with the soil,
if it is a common garden loam, and
five or six inches if it is a light
sand. Plant only bulbs of one
colour together, and put in a stick

M

pS

HYACINTHUS.

162

HYACINTHUS.

to mark the spot, that they may | and be fit to plant again in the

not be interfered with before they
come up, when the bed is being dug
over in spring. The season for
planting Hyacinths is October or
November ; but even December is
not too late in mild seasons, and in
favourable situations. In general,
no protection from frost is requisite ;
for the Hyacinth is very hardy, and
chiefly suffers from too much water,
from snails, or from a disease called
the canker. In heavy clayey soils,
a small cone of soil may be raised
over the roots to throw off the rain;
but when this is done, the cone
ought to be levelled down in Febru-
ary, before the plants come up; or
a small gutter may be formed round
each circle of bulbs, to drain off the
wet. Where borders have a sloping
surface, both these precautions are
unnecessary; and hence, in the
garden of the Zoological Society in
the Regent’s Park, Hyacinths are
planted in the sloping borders,
though the soil is a strong clay, in
autumn, and flower vigorously every
spring. Hyacinths thus treated
will produce very fine flowers the
first spring; and, even though not
taken up, if they are not injured by
canker, or slugs, or the roots of
adjoining plants during summer,
they will flower tolerably well the
second, and even sometimes the
third year ; after which their flow-
ers will become every year weaker
and weaker, till at last the plants
are not worth the room they take
up in the border. If it is wished
to preserve the roots in a vigorous
state, they ought to be taken up
after flowering when the leaves have
faded, and kept in a dry airy shed,
with the neck of the bulb turned
down ; and then planted in a pro-
perly prepared bed in autumn,
where, after remaining two years,
they will have recovered their vigour,

border. Planting Hyacinths in mis-
cellaneous borders is the most con-
venient mode for amateurs, and in
general it produces the most agree-
able effect in a private garden ; for
beds of Hyacinths have more the
appearance of being cultivated for
sale by a florist, though it must be
confessed that stronger flowers are
produced in this way, and the
effect, considered by itself, is far
more splendid.

Beds of Hyacinths.—The most
convenient width is five feet; and
the length may be greater or less, at
pleasure. Five feet in width will
admit of four rows for the four
colours of red, white, blue, and
yellow, which should be six inches
apart between the rows, and the
bulbs may be placed at the same
distance from each other in the row.
The arrangement of the colours may
be according to fancy, but the com-
mon mode is never to have two of a
colour together. To prepare the
bed, dig out the soil to the depth
of three feet, and fill it up to one
foot above the surface with very
sandy loam, mixed with leaf-mould,
cow-dung, or hotbed dung tho-
roughly rotten. This may be done
in September, and in October six
inches of the soil may be removed,
and the bulbs planted; after which
the soil must be replaced. To pro-
tect the bulbs from too much wet
during the winter, the surface of
the bed should be gently sloped to
each side; and during rainy wea-
ther it may be covered with reeds
or thatch, in such a manner as to
throw off the rain. Thus treated,
the plants will bloom with great
vigour ; and to have the colours in
the greater perfection, the bed
ought to be covered in the flower-
ing season with a tent or an awning.
But for amateurs the most conve-

eos

HYACINTHUS,

163

HYACINTHUS.

nient mode is, to form the bed of |

such a size as to be contained either
in a common cucumber frame with
glass sashes, which may be put on
during heavy rains, and also during
sunshine ; tilting them at both ends
to admit a free circulation of air,
and covering the glass with mats to
exclude the sun. Care must be
taken to remove the glasses entirely
during cloudy weather, in order not
to draw up the plants; and, for
the same reason, to take them off
every night when the weather is
dry. A common cucumber frame,
twelve feet long, and four feet wide,
will contain a very handsome col-
lection of Hyacinths; which may
thus be grown to the highest degree
of perfection, and protected from
every exterior injury. As soon as
the plants have done flowering, the
frame and glasses may be removed ;
and when the leaves have become
yellowish, the bulbs may be taken
up, and each kind kept by itself,
and placed in an airy situation in
the shade till they are quite dry.
After this they should be cleansed
from any soil that may stick to
them, and the fibrous roots, which
will have withered up, should be
rubbed off. The bulbs should then
be laid on a shelf of lattice-work,
with the neck of the bulb down-
wards, or placed in shallow wicker
baskets, and hung up in an airy
shed or room till wanted for use.
If decay or canker make their ap-
pearance, the parts injured, if small,
should be cut out, and the bulb laid
aside to dry; but if the parts in-
jured extend far, the bulb should
be thrown away at once, as the
disease is infectious, and will com-
municate itself to healthy bulbs
lying near the diseased ones. Hya-
cinth bulbs are generally fit for put-
ting in baskets in the course of the
month of July, and the bed being

partially renewed with fresh soil,
they may be planted again in Sept-
ember or October. A third part of
the soil being taken away, and re-
placed by fresh soil every year, the
bed may continue to be used for an
unlimited period. Young bulbs er
offsets will be produced more or less
every season, and these may be
taken off when the bulbs are taken
up, laid by themselves, and planted
in a nursery-bed for a year, when
they will have grown sufficiently
large to be fit for planting in the
flowering-bed. Single-flowered Hya-
cinths, whether in mixed borders or
in beds, will generally have a ten-
dency to produce seeds; but as
these weaken the bulbs, the flower-
stalks should be cut off as soon as
the flowers have faded, or the cap-
sules ought to be stripped off the
flower-stalks with the hand as soon
as they appear; unless, indeed, it
is wished to raise new sorts—in
which case the seeds may be allowed
to ripen, and they should be sown
under glass as soon as they are
ripe. They will come up the fol-
lowing spring, and, if carefully
transplanted and properly treated,
will produce flowers in from three
to five years.

Flowering Hyacinths in glasses
of water is a very simple operation,
and may be effected by filling the
glass with water up to the neck;
and then placing the bulb in the cup-
shaped part of the glass intended
to receive it, and renewing the
water from time to time, when it
begins to get muddy. When the
water is changed the bulb should
not be taken out, unless the roots
are short and few, but the hand
should be put over the top of the
glass so as to retain the bulb in its
place, and the water carefully and
slowly poured off. This is done to
prevent any injury being done to

HYACINTHUS.

164

HYACINTHUS.

the long roots, as they are very | cinths for water-glasses, the red and

brittle and easily broken, and the
plant is seriously injured by their
being in an imperfect state. When
one of the long roots is broken, it
should be cut off with a sharp knife
close to the bulb.

When Hyacinths are to be grown
in water-glasses, some persons think
it advisable first to plant the bulbs
in soil, and when they have made
roots of an inch or more in length,
to take them up, and wash the
roots before putting them in glasses ;
but planting in a flower-pot gene-
rally makes the roots spread, in-
stead of descending perpendicularly ;
and thus, they can scarcely be put
into the glass without breaking. To
avoid this danger the bulbs should
be planted in loose sandy soil, and
a very deep pot. When the bulbs
are put into the water, without pre-
viously planting them in the ground,
the glasses may be kept in the dark,
till the roots begin to grow ; but as
soon as this is the case, the glasses
should be placed in a warm room
near the light, when the plants will
grow rapidly. They will, however,
in ordinary cases, do very well with-
out any other care than putting
them in the glasses, and letting the
water at first just touch the bulb.
As soon as the roots begin to grow,
however, the water should be low-
ered; as, if water is retained round
the bulb after it has been excited
into a growing state, it is very apt
to rot. For the same reason great
care should be taken not to let any
water penetrate into the heart of
the plant when the leaves begin to
open, and the flower-stalk to arise.
Should the flower-stem appear weak,
it may be supported by a slender
prop fixed in a disk of wood, on
which the glass may be placed at
its base; or by any more elegant or
convenient means. In choosing Hya-

blue flowers are preferable to those
which are white or yellow; the
latter two having a fragrance too
powerful for rooms, and, besides,
they generally flower weaker in
glasses than the others. In the
windows of seed-shops we sometimes
see Hyacinths or Narcissi with their
flowers inverted in a glass of water
appearing as if they had grown in
that position. They are, however,
grown in the usual manner, with
the glass inverted over the pot in
which the flower is grown, and only
turned and the glass filled up with
water after the flower has expanded,
the flower-pot being removed, and
the bulb wrapped in wet moss.
Sometimes another flower appears
growing from the other end of the
glass ; but this is grown in another
flower-pot in the usual way, and
only removed to the glass when it is
wanted to produce the proper effect.
Deceptions of this kind cannot be
considered in good taste, particu-
larly at the present day, when people
are so much better educated than
formerly. Hyacinths flowered in
water are seldom good for much
afterwards; nevertheless, if the
leaves are carefully preserved, and
the plants, immediately that they
have done flowering, are planted in
a nursery-bed, they will recover
their vigour in two or three years.
It is also said that sinking the bulb
entirely in water after it has done
flowering invigorates it, and will
enable it to flower the second year ;
but I have never had an opportunity
of proving this. A very small por-
tion of common salt added to the
water is said to accelerate the
growth of Hyacinths, and to give a
deeper green to their leaves; and
keeping the water warm, say at a
temperature of 60°, is also said to
promote their growth. It must,

HYBRIDS. 165 HYDRANGEA.
however be remembered, that too | rator must then wait till the stigma
much salt will kill the plants. becomes covered with moisture ex-

Growing Hyacinths in pots of | uding from it; and then, but not
soil requires particular care. To! before, the pollen from the other
insure a vigorous growth, the pots | plant must be applied with the point

ought to be deeper than usual, and
they need not be much wider at the

of a penknife, or the hairs of a
camel’s hair pencil. Should the cells

top than at the bottom. The soil | of the anthers of the one plant burst

ought to be a sandy loam, mixed with

before the stigma of the other be-

rotten leaves or dung so thoroughly | comes moist, the pollen may be col-
decayed as to have become a kind of | lected, and kept in paper till the
mould, and the pots ought to be well | stigma is ready to receive it. In
drained. When first planted, which | some cases pollen has been kept good
ought to be in September, or any | in this manner for two years; but
period between that month and/the moisture of the stigma should
February, the bulbs may be kept in | be taken advantage of as soon as it

a cool place, and covered with soil or
rotten tan, till the buds have begun
to move ; whenthe pots may be taken
to the greenhouse or the windows of
a warm room, and if the soil be
watered with warm water, they will
grow so much the faster. As soon
as the plants begin to grow, they
will require constant watering, but
great care should be taken not to let
any water stand round the roots.
When the plants have done flowering,
they may be turned out of the pots
with the balls of earth unbroken, into
the common soil; and the bulbs may
be taken up and dried when the
leaves have decayed. Bulbs which
have flowered in pots seldom flower
vigorously the second year; and un-
less the amateur has abundance of
room for a nursing-bed, and leisure
to manage it, it is better to throw
away at once bulbs which have been
flowered either in pots or in water-
glasses.

HyYBRIDs are plants raised from
seed produced by fecundating the
stigma of one plant with the pollen
of another, and the following is the
mode of performing the operation :—
The plant that is intended to bear
the seed, should be carefully watched,
and, just before the pollen bursts, the
stamens should be cut off. The ope-

appears, as it soon dries up, and can-
not be restored artificially. The best
time for performing the operation
seems to be about the middle of a
bright sunny day ; and as soon as it
is done, a bit of string, ora strand of
bast-mat, should be tied round the
stem of the flower, that the seed-ped
may be known. Assoonastheseeds
are ripe, they should be sown imme-
diately in shallow pans of light sandy
soil, and set on a greenhouse shelf,
where they may be suffered to remain
during the winter. Many of the
young plants will come up by spring,
when they should be immediately
potted off into single pots, and treated
as before recommended for cuttings.
Great care is necessary in selecting
the plants proper for hybridising.
The object to be kept in view, is to
produce in the hybrid a better plant
than either of the parents, and this
cannot be done when the parents are
widely dissimilar; as when they are,
their progeny will follow one parent
almost to the exclusion of the other.
One of the most skilful hybridisers I
have met with (Mr. Cole, nursery-
man, of Birmingham) proceeds on
this plan, choosing the finest plants
to raise the seed from, and the result
is perfectly successful.
\Hypra’ncba. — Saxifragee. —

= — <a lt CNC CC LL CT
a

HYDRANGEA.

166

HYPOCALYMMA.

There areseveral kinds of Hydrangea,
most of which are American shrubs,
which are quite hardy in British gar-
dens. The kiud best known how-
ever, and whichis called the Hydran-
gea, par excellence, is a Chinese shrub,
which is only half hardy in England.
Botanists call it H. Horténsia,
the specific name being given in
honour of a French lady, whose
Christian name was Hortense; and
though it is now so common, it has
not been introduced much more than
sixty years ; thefirst plant of it grown
in Britain having been imported from
China by Sir Joseph Banks, in 1789
or 1790, about the same time as the
Tree Peony. The Hydrangea, though
nearly hardy, is generally considered
as a greenhouse or window-plant ;
and it is admirably adapted for the
latter situation, and it is scarcely pos-
sible to giveittoomuch water, though
water may be withheld from it for
several days without killing it—the
plant reminding its possessor of its
wants by its conspicuously drooping
its leaves, and reviving rapidly when
water is given. It should be grown
inarich soil, and its branches should
be cut in every year when it has done
flowering ; as, otherwise, the branches
are apt to become unsightly from
losing their leaves near the base.
Blue Hydrangeas are very much
admired; partly, perhaps, from the
difficulty of obtaining them, for no
plants can be more capricious.
Sometimes they come without any
trouble at all; sometimes applying
any one of the numerous recipes re-
commended will change the colour,
either directly or gradually; and
sometimes no care and no recipe has
the slightest effect, and the flowers
remain pink, in spite of all that can
be done to turn them blue. Water
impregnated with alum, steel filings,
sheep’s dung, wood-ashes, peat-ashes,
nitre, carbonate of soda, or common

salt, are all recommended, and all
succeed—sometimes. The flowersare
sometimes turned blue by removing
the plants to a loamy soil, and some-
times by planting them in peat. It is
generally allowed that the fine yellow
loam found in some parts of Hamp-
stead and Stanmore Heaths, and the
peat of Wimbledon Common, are
sure to produce the desired effect ;
as is also the peat of the bogs near
Edinburgh, and that of the neigh-
bourhood of Berlin and St. Peters-
burgh; or any soil that contains a
large proportion of iron. Water in
which tan has been steeped is also
very often successful; though, like
the other recipes, it cannot always
be depended on.

Hypro’cuaris—Hydrocharidee.
—Frogbit.—A pretty little British
water-plant, with white flowers.

Hypro’PIPER.—Water Pepper. —
See Poty/conum.

Hype’ricum. — Hypericacee. —
St. John’s Wort.—The pretty yellow-
flowered shrubs and herbaceous per-
ennials known by this name at the
present day, were formerly in high
repute for driving away evil spirits;
and on this account were generally
planted near dwelling-houses. They
were also highly valued for their
medicinal properties, being believed
to have a powerful effect in stopping
blood and healing wounds. The
most common kind, the Tutsan, or
Park Leaves, is now made into an-
other genus, under thename of Andro-
seenum ; but the botanical distinction
is very trifling. All the kinds will
thrive under the drip of trees ; and
they will grow in any soil and situ-
ation, though they prefer moisture
and the shade. They are found in
almost all the temperate climates of
the world ; and they are propagated
by seeds and by dividing the roots.

HyrocaLy MMA. — Myrtacee. —
The Peach Myrtiz.—This is a

IBERIS.

beautiful little Swan River shrub,
with peach-coloured flowers. It is
a greenhouse plant, requiring the
usual treatment of half-hardy Aus-
tralian shrubs. The leaves when
bruised smell of lemon; and the
flowers closely resemble those of the
peach-tree, except that they are
much smaller.
Hypocy’rta.—(Gesneracee.—H.
gracilis is a pretty creeping stove
plant, with cream-coloured flowers,
growing like an epiphyte, on trees in
the moist forests of South America.
Hypoxis.—Hypoxidee.—A na-
tive of Natal with bulb-like tubers,
broad leaves, and a profusion of
golden yellow star-like flowers.

—[ BERIS. — Crucifere. — Candy-
tuft.—Most of the kinds of Can-
dytuft are well-known annuals, which
received their name from J. wmbel-
lator, the first species grown as a
garden flower, having been brought
from Candia. The seeds should be
sown in a rich light soil in autumn,
where they are to remain, and kept
rather dry during winter. They
should be repeatedly thinned out,
and in spring they should be
watered with liquid manure, taking
care not to let the liquor touch the
plants. When the plants are about
to flower, those of the common kind
should be six or eight inches apart
every way at least ; and those of J.
coronaria, the Rocket Candytuft,
should be from one to.two feet apart ;
and thus treated, the flowers will be
very large and fine. When it is not
thought advisable to take so much
trouble, the seeds may be sown very
thin, either in autumn or early in

| spring ; either alone, or mixed with

mignonette ; and in either case they
will look very well in the flower bor-
ders. The perennial and suffruticose
kinds are well adapted for rock-

167

ILEX.

work ; and they are easily propa-
gated by cuttings, or by dividing
the root.

IcELAND Moss.—Cetraria islan-
dica.

Ick Puant.—See MrEsemBryan-
THEMUM.

IcHNEUMON Fy.--A very elegant
slender creature, somewhat resem-
bling agnat, which generally deposits
its eggs in the living body of a cater-
pillar. Great numbers of caterpillars
are thus destroyed every year ; and
as the grub of the Ichneumon does
notfeed upon vegetable matter of any
kind, it may be regarded as a friend
to gardeners, and it should be spared
accordingly. Thereareseveral kinds
of Ichneumon Flies, some much
larger than others, but the habits of
all are the same.

I’LEx.—This name is frequently
applied in common conversation to
the Quércus J’lex, or evergreen oak ;
but it is properly the botanic name of
the Holly.

V’Lax.—Aquifoliacee.—A genus
of evergreen shrubs or low trees, of
which the most interesting is J'lex
Aquifolium, or the common Holly,
a native of Britain, with fine dark
green prickly leaves, and scarlet or
coral-coloured berries. There are a
great many varieties of this shrub,
some of which have leaves variegated
with cream colour, white, different
shades of yellow, and slight tinges of
red; and others have white, yellow,
and even black fruit. They are all
beautiful, and, being evergreen and
quite hardy, are reckoned among the
most ornamental of British shrubs.
They grow slowly, but as they are
always erect and compact, they are
very valuable for small gardens,
where the plants require to be kept
within bounds. The species are pro-
pagated by seeds, which are kept a
winter in a rot-heap before they are
sown; and the varieties are propa-

(2
ee

IMANTOPHYLLUM.

gated by budding or grafting on the
species, and sometimes by cuttings.
As, however, the operation of pro-
pagation, whether by seeds or other-
wise, is slow, and, in the case of
budding and grafting, somewhat
difficult, amateurs will always find
it preferable to purchase plants from
the nurserymen. Hollies will grow
in any soil in an airy situation, but
they do not thrive in smoke. They
prefer a loamy soil, but they will
grow in sand, and also in strong
clay; and, though not so well, on
chalk or limestone. They make
beautiful and permanent hedges,
elegant single trees, and picturesque
groups; and from the closeness of
their foliage, they are very useful in
shutting out any unpleasant objects.
A Holly hedge is also well adapted
for a street or roadside garden ; as,
while it serves as a screen, it has a
cheerful look, both in summer and
winter. Among the rarer kinds of
Ilex may be mentioned J. latifolia,
a hardy evergreen tree from Japan,
remarkable forthe large size and deep
green of its leaves, and its numerous
clusters of red berries. Another very
handsome species is J. platyphylla, a
native of the Canaries, with large
white flowersand scarlet berries more
than twice the ordinary size.
Inxi'crum.— Winteracee.—Half-
hardy shrubs, with very dark strongly
scented flowers, which smell like ani-
seed; and hence the popular name
applied to the genus of Aniseed Tree.
Most of the kinds come from China,
and are tender in British gardens;
but J. floridanum, an American
species, is very nearly hardy, only
requiring protection in severe win-
ters. They should all be grown in
peat; and they are generally in-

creased by layers, though cuttings |

will strike in heat under a bell-
glass.
IMANTOPHYLLUM. — Amarylla-

168

INARCHING,

dacee.—A very splendid plant with
a large head of bright scarlet and
yellow flowers. It has somewhat
the habit of the Agapanthus, and
is a native of Natal.

Impa‘TIENS. — Balsaminee. —
Noli metangere. There are several
annual hardy species of this genus,
most of which are natives of Europe
and North America, and have yellow-
ish flowers; but some have lately
been introduced with beautiful pink
flowers from India. They are all
distinguished by the seed-vessel
springing open when it is touched,
and discharging the seeds, All the
kinds require a light soil, and
abundance of water; and they are
generally large, erect, strong-grow-
ing plants. Several very beautiful
species have been introduced within
the last few years from the Hima-
layan Mountains, most of which
have pinkish orrose-coloured flowers ;
and lately a creeping plant (J.
répens) has been introduced, the
first creeping plant of the genus seen
in Europe. It has yellow flowers,
and it is a native of Ceylon.
Another very curious kind of balsam
is J. Jerdonie with very showy
green, red, and yellow flowers, and
tuberous stems, which send out
roots at intervals. It was found
growing on trees among the Indian
mountains.

InaRcHING.—A species of graft-
ing, in which the scion is only
partially separated from the parent
plant; in such.a manner, that while
it is uniting with the stock, it
derives a portion of its nourishment
from the plant to be propagated.
For this purpose the stock is either
planted near the parent, or if in a
pot it is placed near it, in such a
manner that a branch from the
scion can be readily joined to the
stock. The stock is sometimes cut
over immediately above its point of

eee ee eee eee ie .

INARCHING.

junction with the branch joined to
it; but more frequently the stock
is left at length. The stock may
either be united to the scion by
notching the one into the other, as
in notch-grafting; or simply by
paring a portion of the bark and
wood from both scion and stock, and
splicing them together, as in side-
grafting. In either case the scion is
made fast to the stock by tying them
together with strands of matting, and
the graft so formed is covered with
moss tied on, or with grafting-clay, or
grafting-wax. Afteracertain period,
the scion and stock unite, when the
former is separated from the parent,
andthe stock is cut over a little above
the graft. After some further time,
when the scion begins to grow vigor-
ously, the stock iscut close over above
the point of union, and the section left
becomes in time covered with bark.
April is the best season for inarching,
as unless the sap is fully in motion,
the wounds dry instead of uniting ;
and hence, if the operation be per-
formed too soon, when the stock and
the scion are examined at the end of
the time when it is expected they
will be united, it will be found that
they do not adhere at all, and that,
indeed, the wounds have healed, sepa-
rately. Inarchingis onlyadopted in
the case of woody plants that grow
with difficulty when grafted in the
usual manner. The conditions of
growth are the same as in indepen-
dent grafting—viz. that the inner
or soft wood of the stock must be
placed exactly on that of the scion,
to insure their union. Inarching is
generally applied to Camellias; and
any person who has visited Messrs.
Loddiges’, at Hackney, Messrs.

Chandler’s in the Vauxhall-Road,
or, in fact, any of the great Camel-
lia growers, in April or May, must
haveseen some of the large old plants
of the superior kinds, surrounded by

169

INSECTS.

a number of pots of the common
single red, supported at different
heights, for the convenience of reach-
ing the different branches to which
they have been united hy inarching.
One of the modes shown of grafting
has all the advantage of inarching,
the scion being nourished by the
water as it would be in inarching
by its roots.—See GRAFTING.
Inpian Corn.—See Zz'a.
InDIAN Cress.—See Tropz’o-
LUM.
InpDIAN Fic.—See Opvu’nt1a.
Inpian SHot.—See Ca’nwna.
l’nca.—Legumindse.—Beautiful
plants, nearly allied to the genus
Mimosa, with silky tassel-like flowers.
—aAll the species are stove shrubs,
and should be grown in a mixture of
loam and peat. They are propagated
by cuttings taken off at a joint, which
are struck in pure sand, under a bell-
glass, and plunged in a hotbed, or
tan, to afford them bottom-heat.
INSECTS are extremely destructive
to flower gardens, particularly those
belonging to the order Lepidéptera,
which includes the butterflies and
moths. Some of the Coleéptera, or
beetles, are also very injurious, while
in the grub state. It would take too
much space, ina work likethepresent,
to give even the names of all the in-
sects which injure flowers; but some
of the most destructive are mentioned
by their popular names as they occur
in the alphabetical series, and a few
words said on each. Entomology
should, however, be studied by every
one who loves flowers; as it is of
great service to the florist to know
these destructive creatures under all
their changes. Itis true, that insects
are, in most cases, only injurious in
the caterpillar state; but often, by
destroying a chrysalis, or a moth, or
butterfly, before it has had time to lay
its eggs, the mischief which would
have been done by the brood which

IPOM@A.

170

IRIS.

would be raised from them may be | pand in greenhouse-heat, and which

prevented.

livetwoorthreedays. Itisshrubby,

I’nuLA.— Composite. — Elecam- | and continues flowering till autumn.
pane.—Some of the foreign species of | J. Horsfallie is also a most splendid

this genus are very showy plants, all | climber.

It should be grown in a

with orange-yellow flowers, and large | moist stove, in rich light loam, and

coarse stalks and leaves.
only suitable for large gardens or

| shrubberies, where they can have

plenty of room. They will grow in

any common garden soil, and they |

are increased by seeds, or by dividing
the root.

Ionopsi’DIuM.— Cructfere. — I.
acatle is a pretty little annual plant

| found wild on the Basaltic hills near

Lisbon and consequently very suit-
able for rockwork. Its flowers,
which, though small, are very abund-
ant, are white when they first appear,
but turn to lilac before they fade.
When first introduced, in 1845, it
was supposed to be a Cochlearia.
Ipome'a.--Convolvulacee.--Beau-
tiful climbing plants, herbaceous and
shrubby, which should be brought
forward in a stove or hotbed ; though
when they have formed their flower-
buds, many of them may be planted
out in May to flower in the open air.
All the species should be grown in a
light soil, well manured with decayed
leaves, or the very rotten part of an
oldhotbed. Twobeautiful kinds are
LI. ribro-cerideaahalf-hardy annual,
which if planted out in a warm bor-
der, will flower beautifully in theopen
air; and J. or Pharbitis Learii,
which will only flower in a stove.
Both these kinds producean astonish-
ing number of flowers, though each
flower lasts only one day, and some-
times, if toomuch exposed to the sun,
onlya few hours ; and both grow with
greatrapidity andvigour. J. Learii
is, however,ashrub, andis propagated
by cuttings, which strike rapidly with
the aid of a little bottom-heat. J.
jicifolia resembles these species, but
it has darker flowers, which will ex-

They are

allowed plenty of water while grow-
ing. It thrives best when grafted
on J. insignis, and when grown on
its own roots, it should be cut down
every year to within a few inches
of the ground. Another species,
I. tyridnthina, has very rich dark
flowers, which it produces in great
abundance.

Tromo’psis. — Polemoniacee. —
Beautiful biennial Peruvian plants,
with splendid scarlet flowers, which
Professor Don, and some other bota-
nists, classed with the Gilias, and
which were formerly called Cantua.
They are free-growing plants; but
as they are supposed to require pro-
tection during winter, they are
generally grown in pots in England,
and kept in a greenhouse. In
America, however, it appears that
these plants are found in a wild
state in Georgia, and that they are
left in the open ground all the winter,
without any protection, in the neigh-
bourhood of Boston, whence the plants
attain a size (seven feet high), and
the flowers a brilliancy of colour,
quite unknown in Europe. They
should be grown in a light and some-
what rich soil ; and care should be
taken to prevent their roots from
becoming sodden with water, as when
this is the case, they are very apt to
damp off.

Iris. —Jridacee. — There are
three distinct kinds of Iris, besides
innumerable species, hybrids, and
varieties. ‘These are, the fibrous-
rooted kinds, which grow best in a
fine sandy loam, and which increase
rapidly every year by suckers from
the roots ; the tuberous-rooted kinds,
which are very apt to be destroyed by

ISONANDRA.

171

IXIA.

snails, or to rot from too much wet;
and the bulbous-rooted kinds, which
should be taken up and replanted
every second or third year, as the
new bulbs, which are formed every
season, are always directly under the
old bulb; and thus in the course of
a few years the bulbs descend so low
as to be out of the reach of the air,
and consequently incapable of vegeta-
tion. Thus it will be generally found
that persons in the habit of growing
Trisesarealways complaining of losing
their plants, whilethe real fault rests
with themselves for not taking up
their bulbsat the proper time. The
bulbous and tuberous-rooted Irises
succeed best in sandy peat, or in any
light and dry soil. The splendid
Chalcedonian Iris is one of the tube-
rous-rooted kinds; and it not only
requires a dry soil during winter,
but to be allowed plenty of pure air
during the wholeperiod of its growth,
or it will be very apt to damp off.

Irish Ivy.—The Giant Ivy, H.
canariénsis, which, though called
Irish, is in fact, a native of the
Canary Islands.

TrisH YEw. --Theupright-growing
Yew, which forms a flame-shaped
tree like the upright cypress, or the
Lombardy poplar, instead of spread-
ing like the common kinds. When
young, it makes a very handsome
shrub, from the fine colour and

- luxuriance of its foliage.

Isa‘tis.--Crucifere. --I. tinctéria,
the Woad, is a British plant, used
for dyeing blue, and which looks
well in a miscellaneous border or
shrubbery. Some of the species are
dwarf plants, very suitable for rock-
work.

Isona’NDRA. — Sapotacee. — I,
gutta is the tree which is said to
produce the Gutta Percha. It isa
native of the Malay Peninsula and
Borneo, and has only very lately been
introduced into Great Britain. In

the autumn of 1848, there were,
however, two or three healthy
plants of it at Kew.
Isopo'con.--Protedcee.—Austra-
lian plants, with very curious leaves
and flowers, nearly allied to Banksia.
They should be grown in peat and
sand, mixed with a little turfy loam,

-and the pot should be a third filled

with potsherds broken small. These
plants are very difficult to cultivate,
as they are very apt to damp off ; the
cuttings also are extremely difficult
to strike.

Iso’roma.— Lobeliacee, --Annual
and biennial plants, which may be
sown in the open ground, or brought
forward in a hotbed, and planted out
inMay. J. axillaris is a most beau-
tiful and elegant plant, the flowers
of which look like a large lilac
jasmine,

I'vrEa.—Fricacee.—A little hardy
American shrub, which requires peat
sou in British gardens.

Ivy.—See He’pERa.

V’x1a. — Lridacee. — Bulbous-
rooted plants, with very beautiful
flowers, which vary exceedingly in
colourandform. Theyareall natives
of the Cape of Good Hope, and they
are generaily grown in pots in green-
houses ; but as, when thus treated,
their slender stems are apt to be-
come etiolated, and consequently very
weak, they do much better in the
open garden, treated in the following
manner, in the climate of London :-—
A bed of any length and breadth
that may be required, should be dug
out to the depth of two or three feet,
according to the nature of the soil,
a retentive clay requiring to be dug
deepest. This bed should have a
third part of its depth filled with
pebbles, brick-bats, or any other
draining material. A stratum of
fresh turfy loam should be laid on
this, and above it a stratum of
rotten cow-dung, so as to fill the bed

IXORA,

172

JALAP.

to within about a quarter of its
depth from the surface of the ground.
The bed should then be filled with
a mixture of light turfy loam and
sand, the loam being broken or
chopped small, but not sifted. The
surface of the bed should be raised
two or three inches above the level of
the surrounding border; and it is
most desirably situated, if backed by
a south wall, and sloping from the
gravel-walk. In this bed the Ixia
roots should be planted in quincunx ;
andifthey are protected by a thatched
covering raised on a slight wooden
frame during winter, they may be left
in the ground several years without
sustaining anyinjury. In the north
of England, or in any cold wet cli-
mate, the Ixias may be planted in
October in pots, well drained, with a
layer of cow-dung over the drainage,
and filled up with a mixture of turfy
loam and sand. The Ixias should
be planted three in each pot; and
the pots should be plunged into a
hotbed, and covered with a glass
frame during winter. In spring, the
glasses may be gradually removed,
and when the flowers are nearly ready
to expand, the pots may be removed
to the greenhouse, or the window of
asitting-room. Where the soil of a
garden is a fat yellow loam, on a
chalky or other porous subsoil, and
the situation dry and yet sheltered,
the bulbs may frequently be planted
in the open ground, and left there
for years, withoutany other care than
covering them with a heap of dead
leaves during winter.

Ixo'ra.— Rubiacee. — Splendid
stove plants. The history of Jxdra
coccinea, the best known species of
the genus, israthercurious. Itisana-
tive of China, and of some of the East
India islands, where it is worshipped
asa sacred plant, and where it is said
to form a small tree about six feet
high, rising with a single stem, and

having its head formed entirely of
clusters of bright scarlet and yellow
flowers, whence it has received the
names of Flamma Sylvarum, and
the Tree of Fire. This plant was
first introduced in 1690; but it was
soon lost, and its existence was even
doubted tillit was re-introduced about
a hundred years afterwards by the
celebrated Doctor Fothergill. After
this, seeds were obtained by several
nurserymen, and the plant was so
much admired that it was sold for
several years at five guineaseach. It
is now common in collections, but it
is rather difficult to keep ; as, though
it requires a moist heat, it will die if
its roots are suffered to retain any
stagnant moisture among them, andit
must not be plunged either in tan or
inahotbed. It is also very liable to
be attacked by insects. Jxdra ja-
vdnica isa very handsome plant, with
bright red branches, orange flowers,
and large deep-green leaves. It is a
native of Java, and in this country it
requires a warm moist stove; as,
unless it has abundance of heat and
moisture, it is apt to be infested
with insects.

B ihe or Jack TreE.—A species
of Artocarpus, or bread-fruit.
Jacop#H‘a.—The plant usually
called by this name is a species of
Senécio, or Groundsel, Itisalsocalled
purple Ragwort. See SENE'cro.
JACOBEA Liny.—A splendid bulb-
ous-rooted plant, formerly called by
botanists, Amaryllis formosissima,
but the name of which is now
changed to SPREKE’LIA, which see.
Jacqur’nia.—Myrsinece.— West
Indian trees and shrubs, with showy
flowers, requiringa stove in England.
They should be grown in loam and
sand, andare propagated by cuttings.
JALAP.—The plant producing
| Jalap was formerly supposed to be a

JASMINUM.

kind of Marvel of Peru; but it is
now discovered to be a kind of Con-
volvulus, or Ipome’a.

_ JA‘MBOS OR THE RosE APPLE.—
A kind of Eugénia, belonging to the
order Myrtacez.

J ASMINE.—See J ASMI’NUM.

J ASMI’NUM.—Oléine.—The Jas-
minesareshrubs remarkable for their
fragrant flowers ; and the common
species, Jasminum officinale, is one
of our most vigorous-growing wall-
climbers, though a native of India.
There are several species hardy in
British gardens, butthe greater num-
ber require the greenhouse or stove.
The principal hardy species is that
already mentioned. It well deserves
a place against the wall of a house, or
the piers of a verandah, which it will
cover in a very short time: or, if
planted against trellis-work, or
against the frame-work of a bower,
it willsoon afford an agreeable shade,
and produce its long, graceful, deep-
green shoots in such quantities as,
after covering the bower, to hang
down to the “ground all round it,
and require to be separated like a
curtain by a person entering. This
plant and the common Ivy, when
trained up a single post, with a
spreading umbrella top of frame-
work, form two of the finest objects
in small gardens by their pendant
branches, which not only hang down
from a height of from fifteen or
twenty feet to the ground, but trail
along it to a considerable distance.
Both plants may be called ever-
greens ; as, though, the Jasmine is
notsofrom its leaves, it is so from the
deep-green colour of its shoots. The
flowers are white, and very fragrant,
and yield an oil similar to that pro-
duced by J. grandiflirum. J. revo-
lutum is a native of Nepal, with
yellow blossoms, and thrives against
a wall, where it grows with great
vigour, covering a large space in a

173

JUDAS TREE.

short time. J. nudifldrum is a
very beautiful species introduced
from China by Mr. Fortune in 1844.
It has large yellow flowers, which
appear before the leaves, and it is
apparently hardy. It is a very
valuable plant, as it flowers in Jan-
uary, when so few plants are in
flower in the open air. The flowers,
however, have no fragrance. J. fri-
ticans and J. himile are upright
border shrubs, with yellow flowers,
deciduous leaves, and deep green
shoots. J. grandiflorum is a hot-
house shrub that bears a strong re-
semblance to the common Jasmine,
and yields the Oil of Jasmine of the
shops. J. odoratissimum, from the
Azores, has yellow and very fragrant
flowers and brood evergreen leaves.
J. azdricum, a native of Madeira,
requires the greenhouse, has white
flowers, and is very fragrant; and J.
Sambac, a stove species, of which
there isa variety with double flowers,
is most fragrant during the night.
It is to this species that Moore al-
ludes in his beautiful lines on the
Jasmine. There are several other
species, but all are climbers, except
J. friticans and J. himile, already
mentioned. They will all thrive in
any common garden soil, mixed with.
leaf-mould ; and they may be all
propagated by cuttings planted in
saud, and covered with a hand-
glass.

JERUSALEM SaGE.--See PHto‘MIs.

JET D’EAU.—A fountain, which
consists of a single column of water,
rising straight up out of the ground.
—See Fountains.

Jonquit.—A kind of Narcissus.

JupAs TREE.—Cércis Siliquas-
trum.— A low tree, producing
numerous racemes of beautiful pink
flowers, from the old wood of the
trunk and branches. It grows freely
in any common garden-soil, but pre-
fersa warm and sheltered situation ;

JUNIPERUS.

174

JUSTICIA.

The flowers have an agreeable and
slightly acid taste; and they are
eaten in France, fried in batter as
fritters. There are several varieties,
but the only other species is CU. ca-
nadénsis, a native of North America.
As these plants bear abundance of
seed, and grow rapidly, they are often
raised from seed; and hence the
great number of varieties. They may
also be propagated by layers.
JuJUBE TREE. — The lozenges
called Jujubes are made from the
fruit of Zizyphus vulgaris, which
ripens abundantly in the neighbour-
hood of Paris; but the real Jujube-
tree is Z. Jujuba, a native of the
East Indies, which requires a stove
in Europe. Both are nearly allied
to Palitrus, or Christ’s Thorn.
JULIBRI'ssin. — This beautiful
tree, which is a kind of Acacia, is
called the Silk-tree, from the abun-
dance and silkiness of its long, fine,
tassel-like blossoms. It is rather
tender in England, but it grows
freely in Italy.—See Aca‘cra.
JUNIPER.—See JUNI‘PERUS.
JUNIPERUS. — Conifere, § Cu-
préssine.—The Juniper. — Ever-
green shrubs, natives of different
parts of the world, but most of
which are hardy in British gardens.
They all thrive in common soil
mixed with sand, or in _ heath-
mould ; and they are generally pro-
pagated by seeds, though they will
all root from cuttings. J. communis,
a native of Britain, of which there
are several varieties, is a very
common hardy evergreen, sometimes
found in the form of a low bush,
and at others in that of a conical
tree, like the Cypress. It bears
clipping, makes excellent garden
hedges, and was formerly cut into a
great variety of shapes. The fruit
is used throughout Europe to flavour
ardent spirits (the spirit called Hol-

lands being made from it), and the
wood is burned in ovens or kilns to
flavour dried beef, hams, or fish.
J. virginiana, the Red Cedar, is
one of the most common of small
evergreen trees, or large shrubs. It
is raised from seeds, and the male
and female plants being of different
sizes, the individuals vary exceed-
ingly in their form and manner of
growth ; so that a number of plants
of this species may exist in a
shrubbery or pleasure-ground, and
yet not two of them be alike. J/.
excélsa is a tall Cypress-like-shrub,
or low tree, very hardy and very
ornamental. J. recérva, a native
of Nepal, is a very elegant plant,
with drooping shoots, well adapted
for cemeteries. It is one of the
hardiest of the species, and thrives
even in the smoke of London. J.
Sabina, the common Savin, is one
of our most ancient garden shrubs,
being almost the only coniferous
evergreen planted in the time of
Queen Elizabeth ; and there are
several varieties of this species, all
of which are beautiful. The fra-
grance of all the Junipers is resin-
ous and refreshing, and many of the
kinds are used in medicine. The
wood used in making lead pencils,
is generally that of the red cedar ;
or of the Barbadoes Cedar, Cedréla
odorata, which last is a stove plant
in England.

Justi’c1a.—A canthacece.—Stove
plants, with showy and curious
flowers. They require a rich light
soil, or a mixture of loam and peat,
and flower freely with moderate
care. They are propagated by cut-
tings, which strike readily in sand,
under a hand-glass, and with bottom-
heat. Justicia bracteolata, now
called Thyrsacanthus bracteolatus,
is an extremely handsome plant, as
when grown in a stove it produces
its pretty lilac flowers all the winter.

LL

KEEL,

17

A’LMIA.—Ericacee. --The Cal-
ico Laurel.—Low shrubs with
beautiful flowers ; natives of North
America. They may be grown with
perfect safety in the open air, or
they may be kept in a greenhouse
and forced, so as to flower in Febru-
ary. They are generally grown in
peat earth, on account of their
numerous hair-like fibrous roots ;
and they may be removed even when
in flower, without injury, if sufficient
care be taken. They are propagated
by layers, or by seeds, which are
received every year in large quan-
tities, from America. The seeds
should be sown in pots, in sandy
peat, or heath-mould, as it is
called ; and they should be very
thinly covered. When the plants
come up they should be trans-
planted into other pots, putting
three in each, and they should not
be removed to the open ground, till
they are five or six inches high.
They should be planted out in
spring.
Katosa’NTHES.—Crassuldcee.—
Mr. Haworth’s name for Crassula
coccinea, and some of the allied
species. —See Cra’ssuLa.
KauvLro’ssta. — Compésite.— A
beautiful little annual resembling an
Aster, the ray florets of which curl
curiously back after they have been
expanded a short time. This plant
was formerly considered half-hardy;
but it is found only to require
sowing in the open border in April,
to flower in May or early in June,
Its beauty is, however, very short-
lived, as its flowers have generally
all faded, and its seeds ripened
before the end of July. It was
named Charéis by Professor De
Candolle, but the name has not been
generally adopted.
Keret.—The lower part of the
flower of a pea-flowered plant, con-

~

oO KNAUTIA.

sisting of two petals, so closed

together as to resemble a little boat.

KENNE‘DYA.— Legumindse.— A.
genus of well-known plants, with
showy fiowers, which has been
lately divided by Baron Hiigel into
four new genera, viz. :—the Harden-
bergias, comprising those with small
bluish or lilac flowers on slender
branches, the type of which is X.
monophy'lla; the Zichyas, having
bunches of broad reddish flowers,
with very short keels, as for ex-
ample, K. coccinea ; the Kennedyas,
with large scarlet or crimson flowers,
having long keels; and the Physo-
lobiums, having flowers a good deal
like those of the Zichyas, but with
bladdery capsules. All the Ken-
nedyas are Australian climbing or
trailing shrubs, which require a
greenhouse in England, and should
be grown in heath-mould, or very
sandy loam, mixed with peat. They
are propagated by cuttings, which
strike readily in sand, under a bell-
glass.

Ke’rRIA. — Rosdcee.— By some
mistake, Kérria japénica was at
first supposed to belong to Cérchorus,
a genus of Tilidcexe, and of course
nearly allied to the Lime-tree, to
which it bears no resemblance,
though it is still called Cérchorus
japonicus in the nurseries. It is
also singular that though the double-
flowered variety was introduced into
England in 1700, the species was
not introduced till 1835. It is a
delicate little shrub, too slender to
support itself in the open air; but
when trained against a wall, flower-
ing in great profusion. It should
be grown in a light rich soil, and it
is propagated by cuttings.

Kipney Vetcu.--See ANTHY’LLIS.

KNAPWEED, — Centauréa Sca-
bidsa.

Kwav’t1a, — Dipsdcee. — One
species is a very pretty little flower,

ee ee 4

KOLREUTERIA.

of hardy annuals.

176

requiring only the usual treatment | A middle-sized deciduous tree, a

KOLREUTERIA.

native of China, but quite hardy in

Kyicut’s Srar.—A kind of | British gardens, and veryornamental

Amaryllis, considered by some
authors as forming a separate genus
called Hippeastrum.

KyrpHoria. — Asphodelee. — A
most striking plant, with large
massive flower, spikes of scarlet and
yellow flowers. It is a native of
the Cape of Good Hope; but it will
flower profusely all the summer, if
planted in the open garden; the
foliage is also ornamental, the genus
was formerly called Tritonia.

KNIVEs are used in gardening for
pruning and also for budding and
grafting. Pruning knives were
formerly characterised by hooked
blades ; but straight-edged blades
are now preferred, as making a
cleaner cut. The best description
of budding-knife has a_ straight
blade, the upper half of the back
having also a cutting edge, and the
handle is terminated by a rounded
end. Sometimes a knife is made to
serve as both a budding and grafting-
knife, as shown in fig. 32.

Know _to'n1a. — Ranunculacee.
— Half-hardy perennial plants,
natives of the Cape of Good Hope,
nearly allied to Adonis vernalis.
They should be grown in peat, mixed
with a little loam; and they are
increased by dividing the roots.

Ko‘cuta. — Chenopodiacee. —
Belvidere or Summer Cypress.—An
annual plant, formerly much culti-
vated in gardens, to gather for
beaupots to place in the fire-places
during summer; but which now is
rarely seen. About a century ago
many plants were grown for these
large beaupots, but as they are now
no longer used, the flowers that
supplied them are neglected. Kochia
is quite hardy, and only requires
sowing in the open ground.

KGLREUTE‘RIA.—Sapindacee. —

a

FIG. 82.—GRAFTING KNIFE, WITH THE
FORTION OF THE BACK OF THE BLADE
FROM + TO + GROUND TO A CUTTING
EDGE, SO AS TO MAKE IT SERVE ALSO
FOR A BUDDING KNIFE.

from its large variously-divided
foliage, and its conspicuous terminal
compound spikes of rich yellow
flowers. These are freely produced
in the climate of London, and are
often succeeded by bladdery capsules,
which contain seeds; and from

a

Ee e—eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeEeeEeEeEeEeEeEeEeEe————eEeEeEeE——eE—EE——E———E——————E——————E—————— SSS

LADIES MANTLE.

these, or cuttings of the roots, it is
readily propagated. It will growin
any soil, and does not altogether
dislike coal-smoke.

Kont'ea. — Cruciferae. — The
Sweet Alyssum.—A pretty little
annual, with white sweet-scented
flowers, often used as an edging-
plant to beds and borders. It only

requires sowing in the open ground |
| The flowers are extremely beautiful |
See ORCHIDEOUS |

in March.

lpreee are pieces
parchment, or metal, bearing the
name of the plants, and tied to them.
When the names are affixed to a
piece of wood or metal, stuck into
the ground, they are called tallies ;
and of these there are many kinds.
—See TaLuies. \
Lasia ‘via.—Leguminésce.—The
Egyptian Bean, formerly called Dé-

vulgaris. A half-hardy climbing

annual, or biennial plant, which |

only requires the usual treatment
of similar plants. It has a very
showy flower.

LABU’RNUM.—See Cy’tisus.

Lace Barx.—See Lacn’rra.

Lace Lrar.—See OuvrrAnpRA.

LACHENA'‘LIA. — Asphodélece. —
Cape bulbs, with very showy flowers.
They will not need taking up in
winter ; but must be grown in pots
in a green-house, and allowed very
little water at that season. They
are generally grown in loam and
peat, mixed with a little leaf-
mould.

La’panum, or Lébdanwm —A
gum produced by some of the kinds
of Cistus, used in laudanum, which
is prepared from opium, made from
the heads of the Poppy.

Lavizs’ Brepstraw.—See Ga'-
LIUM.

Lapras Mantie—See Atcuez-
MI’LLA.

of wood, |

177

|

LAGETTA,

LADIES SLIPPER.—See Cypri-
PE‘DIUM.

Lapiss’ TrRacEes.—See Sprra‘n-
THES.

LapDy Brrp.-—See Coccrnn’Lua,

La&'L1a.—Orchidacee.—A very
beautiful epiphyte, which may be
grown with its roots wrapped in
moss, and fastened on a piece of
wood ; or in the husk of a cocoa-nut.

and very delicate.
EPIPHYTES,

LAGENA'‘RIA. — Cucurbitacece. —
The Bottle Gourd.—An East Indian
species of Gourd, which is sometimes
grown on account of its curious
shape; but the pulp of which is
poisonous.

LAGERSTR@® ‘M1A.—Lythrariée,or
Salicéric.—The Pride of India.—
Beautiful trees, with flowers some-

| thing like those of the Cldrkia in
lichos Lallab, but now Lablavia |

form, but much more brilliant in
colour. JZ. indica is generally
grown in the stove, but the other
species succeed if planted in the
open ground in a conservatory.
Lace 11a. — Thymelacee.— The
Lace bark Tree.—A shrub or low
tree, a native of Jamaica, remarkable

'for its liber, or inner bark. This

inner bark slips off the wood without
difficulty ; and its fibres, which are
extremely fine, are so tough that
they will admit of being spread out
without breaking or separating, till
the bark becomes lace-like in its
texture. Charles II. had a collar
and ruffles made of it. In England
the plant requires a stove, and to be
grown in a mixture of loam and
peat. It is propagated by cuttings,
which are rather hard to strike.
The flowers are white, and in shape
they resemble those of the Mezereon ;
but instead of being produced in
clusters round the stem, they grow
on a kind of spike, far apart from
each other.

x

SS

i
;

44 propagated by cuttings.

| plants.—See CaLIvoRNIAN ANNUALS. |

| colours; and JL. tingitanus, the

LATHYRUS.

178

LAVANDULA.

Lanta‘na.-- Verbendcee.--Green-
house and hothouse plants, with
pretty flowers, nearly allied to the
Verbenas ; and the half-hardy ones
requiring the same treatment. See
VERBE’NA.

Lapace’Ria. — Smilacece. — A |
very showy plant, with large bell- |
shaped white flowers tinged with
rose at the base. It is a native of |
Chili, but it flowers freely in a|
moist, cool greenhouse. “/¢ #4

Lapreyrou’sia. — Lridacee. —
Cape bulbs, with pretty flowers,
which may be planted in a warm
border, and left in the ground
during winter, if protected during
that season by a hand-glass, &c.,
from frost or heavy rain.

LARKSPUR.-—See DELPHI/NIUM.

LasIoPe’TALUM.— Bytineriacee.
— Australian low shrubs, which |
require a greenhouse in England,
and are grown in loam and peat, and

LasTHE'NIA. — Composite. — |
Californian annuals with bright |
yellow flowers; which require the
usual treatment of Californian |

-La’/tTHyYRUS.— Leguminose.— A
genus of vigorous-growing, very
ornamental perennials and annuals,
of which those best known are L.
latifolius, the Everlasting Pea, with
pink flowers, and a variety with
pure white flowers, both growing to |
the height of six feet or eight feet
when supported by sticks, in the |
manner of common Peas, or trained
to a trellis; ZL. grandiflorus, a
perennial, remarkable for the large
size of its flowers; L. odordtus, the
common Sweet Pea, an annual |
remarkable for the fragrance of its |
blossoms, which are of various |

Tangier Pea, a tall-growing plant, |
the flowers of which are dark-
purple. Another very interesting |

| tree, with dark-green leaves.

yield by distillation in water.

‘and an open airy situation.

species is Lord Anson’s Pea, L.
magellanicus, a perennial plant,
interesting from the beauty of its
foliage and its blue flowers, and not
nearly so much cultivated as it
ought to be: against a wall, it isa
rare, and at the same time a very
elegant species. There are many

_ others, both annuals and perennials,

all of which are more or less showy,
and being of vigorous growth are
well adapted for broad borders.
They will grow in any common soil ;
the annuals are propagated by seeds,
and the perennials by division of the
root.

LavREL.—See Cr’RAsUs.

Lav’rus. — Lauracee. — The
Sweet Bay, LZ. nobilis, is a very
handsome evergreen shrub or low
It is
somewhat tender, and requires a
sheltered situation. The male and
female flowers are on different

| plants ; and the former, which are

of a rich yellow, are by far the
most showy. It will grow in any
common soil, and it is propagated
by layers. The leaves are used to
flavour custards. The fruit of the
female plant is a round, dark,

_ purple berry, produced in abundance

in fine seasons; but it is seldom

seen, as the male plant is by far

the most common. There are
several other kinds of Latrus ;
most of which are stove shrubs.
Lava’/npuULA.— Labiate. — The
Lavender is a low suffrutescent bush,
well known for the fragrance of its
flowers, and for an oil which they
L.
Ste‘chas, the French Lavender, is a
more ornamental plant than the
common kind, but somewhat tender.
Both require a dry calcareous soil,
The
common Lavender is cultivated ona
large scale at Mitcham, and also at

Henley-on-Thames. At both places

SE ee

LAWN. li

it is propagated by cuttings of the |
young wood planted in autumn ;_
and seeds are sold in the seed-shops. |

Lava’/TERA. — Malvacee. — A
very showy annual, common in
flower-gardens, which only requires
sowing in the open border in March
or April. There are two other
species which are shrubs.—See
TREE MAtiow.

Lawn.—Smooth mown turf, when
of any extent in pleasure-grounds, is
called a lawn; and its chief beauties
are the uniformity of its surface, and
uniformity in the kinds of grasses
which cover it, and which produce an
uniform tone of green. These objects |
are produced by first preparing the |
soil, which should be a sandy loam, |
or a loam slightly inclining to sand, of
afoot or more in depth, and equally
drained throughout, so as everywhere |
to retain the same degree of moisture. |
Next, the same mixture of grasses
should be sown throughout, and lastly
they should be mown at regular in-
tervals, say of a fortnight during the
summer months, and a month during
spring and autumn. Whenever coarse
grasses, or broad-leaved plants of any
kind appear, they should be taken
out with the spud; and whenever
any spot becomes bare, the soil should
be renewed, and pieces of fresh turf
introduced, or seeds sown; also
when worms disfigure the surface,
the castings which they throw up
should be scraped off, and the
surface watered with lime-water,
by which all the worms will be
destroyed. In general, it is im-
possible to produce a fine lawn,
except in an open, airy situation,
with a soil which. will retain
moisture during summer; for in
close pent-up places, surrounded by
walls or hedges, and under the drip
of trees and shrubs, no kind of grass
will grow. In such places, all that
can be done is to encourage the

79

LAYERING.

growth of moss; which wili spring
up naturally wherever the soil is
kept sufficiently moist; but where
it is very dry, the branches of the
trees and shrubs should be allowed
to trail on the surface, so as com-
pletely to cover it. In some situa-
tions, where the branches of the
trees and shrubs do not lie close to
the surface, or where they are chiefly
of deciduous kinds, the surfaces may
be clothed with Ivy or Periwinkle.
In very small gardens, grass-plots
are generally formed by rolls of
turf, taken from the surfaces of some
adjoining pasture-field or meadow ;
but when grass-seed is sown, the
following kinds are considered the
best : — Fox-tail Meadow grass,
Alopeciirus praténsis, which should
form one-fourth of the whole; the
Sweet-scented Spring-grass, A nthou-
anthum odoradtum, which gives the
fragrance to new hay; and Poa
praténsis, the Common Meadow-
grass. To these may be added the
Crested Dog’s-tail-grass, Cynostirus
Cristatus ; and the hard Fescue-
grass, Fesitica duriiscula, with
about the proportion of a bushel of
white clover-seed to four bushels of
the other mixture; and this quantity
will suffice for an acre of ground.
LAYERING is a mode of propagating
used both in the case of ligneous and
herbaceous plants, and the operation
is performed by choosing a young
shoot of the current or the preceding
year, bending it down to the ground,
and covering a portion of it near the
extremity of the shoot with an inch
or more of soil, previously fixing it
there with a hooked stick. In general,
layers of woody plants made in au-
tumn. may be taken off about the
same season the following year ; but
some trees and shrubs, such as Mag-
nolias, the Tree Ivy, &c., require to
remain on the tree for two years.
Roses layered in the summer season

n 2

en

LAYERING,

180

LAYERING.

with shoots of the same year’s growth | themums so rooted will flower the
may be taken off the following spring ; | winter of the same year. To facili-
| but the general practice is to layer | tate the rooting of all layers, whether

them in autumn or winter, and allow
the layers to remain on the plants for
| a year. Layers of herbaceous plants,
such as Carnations, Pinks, Double
Sweet Williams, and Chrysanthe-

|
|
|
|
: FIG. 38.—LAYER OF A CARNATION.
/
|
|
|
|
|
|
|

FIG. 34,—LAYER OF A DECIDUOUS
PLANT.

maums, made in the beginning of
summer, will have made roots by the
autumn; and the layers of Chrysan-

ligneous or herbaceous, a notch, or
slit is made in that part of the shoot
which is buried in the soil ; or it is
twisted, and a portion of the bark
taken off, or it is in some other way
wounded, bruised, or injured, so as to
check the return of the sap by the
bark, when the sap, accumulating at
the upper lip of the wound, forms a
callosity there of granulated matter,
from which roots are soon after
emitted. In layering herbaceous
plants, and more especially Carna-
tions, the slit is made on the under
side of the shoot, and in the case of
woody plants, on the upper side. In
both cases, the knife is entered
immediately below a bud or joint;
roots being always more freely
protruded at the joints of plants
than in the intervals between them.
The cut is generally made half
through the shoot, and continued up
half an inch or an inch, and to keep
it open a small splinter of wood, or
a small flat stone, or a piece of slate,
or a potsherd, is put in between the
divided parts to irritate the wound
and cause it to protrude granulous
matter. See fig. 33. In layering
herbaceous plants, it was formerly
the custom to shorten the leaves
remaining onthe layer, butin modern
practice this is considered unneces-
sary, and even injurious, by lessening

the powers of the leaves to elaborate |

the sap. The leaves are always
stripped off that part off the layer
which is buried in the soil; as
shown in the layer of a deciduous
plant, jig. 34. In layering some
woody plants, such as certain kinds
of Roses, Tree Ponies, &c., the
entire shoot is laid down, and the
knife entered immediately below
each eye; and the wounds being
kept open by splinters of wood or

Se

|

| but it is not at all applicable to

| such as the Honeysuckle, Técoma,
_ Wistaria, &c., which produce long

LEAF-MOULD.

stones, the whole shoot is covered |
with earth to the depth of half an |
inch or an inch, according as the |
soil is sandy or loamy, and a shoot |
is afterwards sent up from each |
eye, so that a shoot thus laid down |
produces nearly as many plants as |
it has buds. This practice is much |
more successful with some kinds of
shrubs and trees than with others,

herbaceous plants. Some shrubs,

shoots, and continue growing
throughout the summer, may be
pegged down as they grow, and a
slit made behind each bud, or every
other bud, covering the joint so
treated with soil. A great many
plants are thus produced from a
single shoot in one season, more
especially in moist, warm summers,
or in a warm situation, where water
is applied artificially. Layers of
every description root most freely in
sandy soil, in an open airy situation ;
and those which are difficult to root
succeed best where the soil is almost
a pure sand. ‘The layering of
Carnations is an operation par-
ticularly suitable for ladies, more
especially when the plants are in
pots, as they can be placed on a
table or bench, and there will be no
occasion for stooping.

LAYING IN BY THE HEELS.— |
When plants are taken up for
removal, if they cannot be planted
immediately, they are generally laid
together horizontally in a trench
made for that purpose, and the
roots covered with earth. This is
done to prevent the roots from
becoming dry and withered, which
they would do if they were left
exposed to the open air for any
length of time.

Lrapwort.—See PiumBa‘eo.

LEaF-Mou pn isformed of decayed

181

LEAVES.

leaves, and is one of the most useful
materials in the culture of flowers.
All plants whatever will grow in
leaf-mould, mixed with loam and
sand, and many plants will grow in
leaf-mould alone. It is particularly
useful for growing plants in pots,
especially Pelargoniums, Fuchsias,
Petunias, Brugmansias, &c.; and in
many cases it may be used as a
substitute for heath-mould. Leaf-
mould is formed by sweeping up the
leaves of trees and shrubs in autumn
and winter, and laying them in
heaps in a convenient place to rot,
turning them over occasionally, so
as to expose continually a new
surface to the action of the air. At
the end of a year, a considerable
portion of the leaves will have
become mould, and may be separated
from the rest by sifting; and, at
the end of two years, the whole will
have become one mass of mould. If
it were required to grow any kind of
herbaceous plants to the largest
possible size, within a given time,
I do not know how it could be
better done than by placing the
plant in the centre of a bed, three
or four cubical yards deep, of leaf-
mould mixed with coarse sand,
thoroughly drained by a stratum of
stones at the bottom, and amply
supplied with water. Pine-apples
in France, and melons in Holland,
are grown to an enormous size in
only leaf-mould and rough sand.
The best substitute for leaf-mould is
heath-mould, that is to say, peat
and sand, mixed with sifted very
rotten dung. Or rotten dung and
sand may be used, if the dung has
become so thoroughly decayed as to
form a kind of mould.

LEATHER Woop.—See Di‘roa.

LEAVES are, next to roots, the
most important parts of plants.
With a root a plant will begin to
grow, but unless the leaves which it

LEAVES.

182

LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.

produces are allowed to come to
maturity, it will soon cease to live ;
not only because it is in the leaves
alone that the moisture imbibed by
the roots is elaborated into the sap
or vital juice of the plant; but
because the leaves act as mouths to
take in nourishment from the air.
Nothing so decidedly shows the
ignorance or knowledge of a gar-

| dener, as the manner in which he

treats the leaves of plants. Those
of bulbs many gardeners will, if not
prevented, cut off as soon as the
plants have done flowering ; and, in
general, gardeners wish to perform

| the same operation on all herbaceous

plants after they have flowered.
When a man of this description
makes a Jayer or a cutting of a shoot
that has the leaves on, he either
takes them off entirely, or cuts off
their tips, not knowing that it is by
means of the leaves alone that such
cuttings can produce roots. (See
Curtines.) At the base of every
leaf there is the rudiment of a bud,
either visible or dormant, and
unless the leaf be allowed to come
to maturity, this rudiment is killed

| or prevented from becoming a vital

germ. Wherever buds are required,

| therefore, it is necessary to preserve

leaves. But leaves not only return
sap to the buds at the base of their
petioles, but through these petioles
they return sap to the general
circulation of the plant ; and hence,
the growth both of the roots of the
plant and its shoots depends entirely
on the number of its healthy leaves.
Leaves perform their office of elabo-
rating the sap by exposure to the
light and air, and more especially to

_ the direct influence of the sun;

therefore, it is not sufficient to pre-

_ serve the leaves which a plant

produces, it is also necessary to
prevent. them from being darkened
by adjoining plants or other objects,

or from darkening other leaves.
This, in some cases, requires thin-
ning both of leaves and shoots ; but
more generally it may be effected by
placing the plant in an open airy
situation. As the progress of a
plant, therefore, after it is once
originated, and planted in a proper
soil and situation, depends entirely
on the leaves and on their treat-
ment, it follows that the growth of
the plant may be in a great measure
checked by the removal of the
leaves, either before they have burst
from the bud or immediately after-
wards. In this way Mr. Beaton has
reduced the shoots of the most
vigorous-growing fruit-trees without
ever once using the knife. The
same principle may be applied in
the case of every other description
of plant.

Leaves are also occasionally used
instead of manure or tan for hot-
beds ; and very frequently for what
are called linings to old hotbeds, the
heat of which has decreased, as very
great heat is generated by leaves
while undergoing the process of
decay.

Le‘pum.—Fricdcee.—The Lab-
rador Tea.—American low shrubs,
with pretty white flowers, which
require to be grown in peat and
sand, heath-mould, or very sandy
loam. Lédum bucxifolium, the
Sand Myrtle, is frequently called
Ammyrsine buxifolia in the nurser-
ies. It is a very pretty, compact-
growing, little plant, with box-tree
leaves, and clusters of white flowers,
which have a pink tinge on the back
of the petals. It is very suitable
for beds in a geometric flower- garden,
or for rock-work ; but it requires
a slight protection during severe
frosts.

Lecuminous Pxuants. — Plants
that produce their seed in a pod or
legume, like the common Bean and

LESCHENAULTIA.

Pea ; some of them have pea-flowers, |
and others have tassel-like flowers,
like those of the Acacias.

LEIOPHY LLUM.—Another name
for Léedum buxifoliwm.

Lr’mna.—Duckweed.

Lemon.—See Cr'rrus.

Leono'tts. — Labiate. — Lion’s-
ear.—Shrubby plants, from the Cape
of Good Hope, with scarlet or orange
flowers, which are produced in
whorls round the joints of the
stems. The flowers are produced in
autumn, and the plants require a}
light rich soil.

LEOPARD’S BanE.—See Doro’sr- |
cuM.

LeEpERIzA. —Amaryllidacee. —
A very handsome South American
bulb, nearly allied to Pancratium,
but with yellow flowers tipped with
green. The plant requires a green-
house.

LEPTODA/CTYLON. — Polemonia-
cee.—A Californian shrub nearly
allied to Gilia and quite hardy in
British Gardens. Its flowers are
pink, and they are produced in such
great profusion, as frequently quite
to conceal the leaves and branches.

Leptos1'pPHON.—Polemoniacee.--
Pretty Californian annuals, now
united to Gilia, which will bear a
moderate degree of cold better than
too much heat.—For their culture, |
see ANNUALS.

LEprosPe’RMUM.— Myrtacee. -—
Very pretty Australian half-hardy |
shrubs, with white flowers, which
are generally kept in a greenhouse
in England, but which may be
grown in the open air, with a slight |
protection during winter. They
require a sandy loam, mixed with
peat in nearly equal quantities ; and
they are generally propagated by
cuttings, as the plants which are
raised from seed are a long time
before they flower.

LESCHENAU’LTI4.— Goodendvie.

183

LESCHENAULTIA.

—The two best known species of
this genus are both natives of New
Holland, and both conspicuous for
the great abundance of their dark
scarlet flowers. JL. formosa is very
common in windows, greenhouses,
and small balconies; but though it
is so general a favourite, few people
can keep it long. The fact is, that
though it does not belong to the
same natural order as the Heath, it
very much resembles it in habit, and
is even more easily killed. The
Leschenau'Itia sheuld be grown in
heath-mould mixed with a little
loam, and treated exactly like a
Heath ; that is, never suffered to
become too dry, and never saturated
with water. It should be potted
high, so as to leave the collar above
the mould in the centre of the pot;
and when kept in a balcony, the pot
in which it grows should be placed
within another pot, so that the roots
may not be injured by the outside
of the pot becoming heated by the
sun. The most important point,
however, is to allow the plant
plenty of air, as it will not live
without abundance of both air and
light. ZL. Baxteri is a very beautiful
variety of the old species, as the
flowers are much larger and more
brilliant, but it requires the same
treatment. It was once supposed
that the flowers of all the species of
the Leschenaultia were of a bright
scarlet ; but this is found to be a

mistake. In 1842, L. béloba, a blue-

flowered Leschenaultia, was intro-

duced from the Swan River, and |

since that period several other
species have been introduced ; one
of which, Z. arcuata, has flowers
with three large yellow segments,
and the other two of a dark purple
or crimson. Itisa prostrate green-
house plant, with the branches
spreading and curved downwards,

and very large flowers. L.splendens |

LEVELLING.

is another very beautiful species, the
flowers of which are scarlet and
yellow.

LESPEDE'za. — Legumindse. —
Pea-flowered perennial plants, nearly
allied to the French Honeysuckle,
which only require to be planted in
any common garden-soil, in the open
borders.

LessE'rT1a.— Leguminose.— L.
pulchra is a pretty litile half-
shrubby plant, with purplish-red
pea-flowers, which are produced in
May. Itisa native of the Cape of
Good Hope, and it is generally kept
in a greenhouse.

Lreucoyum.— A maryllidicee.— |

The Snow-flake.—Beautiful bulbous-

| rooted plants, natives of Europe, as
| hardy as the common Snowdrop,

and requiring the same treatment,
except that they do not succeed
quite so well under the drip of trees.
Some of them are now placed in a
new genus called A'cis.
LeEucopo'con. — Lpacridee. —
Australian half-hardy shrubs, with
spikes of feathery white flowers.
They are very abundant in the
temperate regions of Australia, and

_ only require a slight protection in

England during winter.

LEVELLING is an operation which
is required on a Jarge scale in laying
out gardens, and on a smaller scale
in digging uneven ground. In either
case, care should be taken to keep
the best soil on the surface ; so that
when a hill is to be lowered in order
to fiil up a hollow, the first operation
is to take off the surface of both, and
reduce the ground to an uniform
inclination or level, by removing the
subsoil, and replacing the surface-
soil afterwards evenly over the whole.
In practice, it is seldom, if ever,
desirable to reduce a surface to a
perfect level, because in that case
the rain which fell on it would not
readily run off. An _ inclination

184

LEYCESTERIA.

should generally be given from one

side to the other ; or, when the plot
is a square, from the centre to all
the sides ; and this inclination may
be so gentle as to render it quite
impossible to be detected by the eye
alone. A piece of ground fifty feet
broad may have an inclination of
three inches, if the soil be loamy
and retentive; but if it be sandy
and absorbent, an inch and a half
will be sufficient. In levelling lawns,
no part whatever of the surface
ought to be on what is called a
dead, or perfect level; because, as
the grass retains the water on the
surface like a sponge, if the soil be
loamy, it will soon become mossy
and unpleasant to walk on during
the whole of the winter and spring.
All flat lawns, therefore, on clayey
soil, ought not only to have a gentle
inclination, but frequent drains, the
stones in which ought to be brought
up to within a few inches of the
surface. In arranging the inclina-
tion of dug surfaces, care should be
taken that the water is not thrown
on the gravel-walks; for which
purpose drains are requisite in the
marginal borders; though, in general,
dug soil, if the stratum be not
retentive, is sufficiently absorbent to
render such drains unnecessary, the
superfluous water of the subsoil
finding its way to the drains of the
walks,

x Leyceste‘R1a. — Caprifolidcee.
—L. formosa is a very handsome
plant, with long spikes of reddish
flowers, which will not only thrive,
but grow more luxuriantly in the
immediate neighbourhood of the sea,
than in any other situation. It isa
native of Nepal, and was introduced
in 1824. It was, however, soon
lost through injudicious treatment
—probably through keeping it too
warm ; but it has been lately re-
introduced, and it is now found to

LIGUSTRUM.

185

LIGUSTRUM.

grow vigorously in the open ground.
It is propagated by cuttings .and
seeds.

LiBocE'DRUS. — Conifere.— This
is a magnificent tree from the coldest
part of South America. J. tetragdna
is quite as hardy as the Araucdria
imbricata, and as curious and orna-
mental. There are several species,
all natives of South America.

LicHEN.—Cryptogamia Lichénes.
—NMoss-like plants, generally found
on old walls, desert heaths, or the
bark of old trees ; also frequently on
dead wood.

Licut is as essential as air and
water to plants; and without
abundance of light, plants’ are
neither vigorous in themselves, nor
properly coloured. When green-
house plants are kept in imperfectly
lighted plant-houses, or in half-
darkened rooms, it is really painful
to witness the efforts they make to
catch as much light as they possibly
can ; their stems become weak, from
being unnaturally elongated, or
drawn up and twisted, in their
efforts to reach the light, and their
flowers are pale and of very little
value. In those towns where the
atmosphere is thickened by coal-
smoke, the light never has the same
beneficial effect as in the open
country, where there is nothing to
prevent it from exercising its full
influence over the plants.

Li’cnuM V1T#.—Guaiacum offi-
cinale is a tree, a native of the West
Indies, remarkable for the hardness
of its wood. It has blue flowers,
which are produced in succession all
the summer. It requiresa stove in
England, and should be grown ina
mixture of peat and loam ; butitis
very rarely met with.

Licu’strum. — Oledcew. — The
Privet is one of the most common,
but at the same time most useful,
of garden shrubs. The plant, in its

wild state in Britain, is deciduous ;
but there is a variety, obtained
originally from Italy, which is
evergreen, and which forms hedges
for shelter of every size, from those
of six inches in width and one foot
in height, to hedges ten feet high
and two or three feet in width.
These hedges afford an excellent
shelter to exposed flower-gardens,
and also when planted on the south
side of a border, shady situations
for particular kinds of plants, such
as Primroses, Polyanthuses, the
rarer kinds of Ranunculacez, Tril-
liums, Cypripédiums, Bog Orchidee,
and a great variety of others. The
Privet is preferable to all other
plants for garden-hedges, on account
of the rapidity of its growth, and
the nature of its roots, which are
chiefly fibrous, and never extend to
a great distance from the plant.
The tree Box has the same proper-
ties, but then it is of much slower
growth. The Evergreen Privet is
also one of the best plants for verdant
architecture and sculpture ; because
it grows compact, is of a deep green
colour, bears the shears well, and
the leaves being small, they are
not disfigured by clipping, like
those of the Holly or the Laurel.
The Box equals it in the smallness
/of the leaves, but it grows more
slowly ; and though the Juniper and
'the Yew surpass it, because they
never show the mark of the shears,
they grow much slower still. The
Privet grows in any soilandsituation,
even in narrow courts amid coal-
smoke, and it is readily propagated
by cuttings. It also grows under
the shade of trees, and is therefore
admirably adapted for thickening
and darkening narrow shrubberies,
and for screening plantations. As
a single object, the Privet is very
ornamental, whether covered with
its white flowers or its dark-purple

_ plant is equally high with the pre-|a garden. The slug differs from the |

produces its black-spotted orange )
| flowers in August and September. “discharge from their bodies to enable

LILIUM. 186 LIMAX.

berries; and there are varieties | are used in Kamtschatka in the same |

with green, white, and yellow berries, | way as potatoes are in Britain ; and ©

and variegated leaves. Ligitstrum | they all belong to what are called the
lucidum, and L. spicatum, are very | scaly bulbs, which may remain several

ornamental sub-evergreen shrubs or | years in the ground without taking |
low trees, natives oF China and | up, and which when they are taken

Nepal ; but they are liable to be | | up, should be planted again as soonas |
injured by very severe winters. | possible. The beautiful Japan Lilies —
These two species are propagated by | (LZ. lanceolatum and its varieties) |

budding or grafting on the common | are now frequently planted in the
Privet. | open air during the flowering season,

Limac.—See Syri’nGA.

—The lily is the most splendid genus | of the Lily tribe in the open air.

of bulbous plants. All the species; Numerous hybrids have also been |

are beautiful, and most of them are | raised between the greenhouse and

hardy. Lilium cdndidwm grows | hardy kinds, some of which are very ,

from three feet to five feet high, and | handsome.
its pure white flowers, which appear| Linty.—See Li’tium.

placed by painters in the hands of | VALLA‘RIA.

the Virgin. L. bulbiferum, anative| Lrmax.—This is the scientific —
of Italy, has orange flowers, which | name for the slug, one of the most |

appear in June and July, and the | destructive creatures in existence to

ceding species. L. philadélphicum | snail in having no apparent shell,

grows five feet or six feet high, and | though it has therudimentsof ashell ©
produces its fine scarlet flowers in | buried in the upper part of its body. |
August. ZL. Pomponium is a splen- | Like the snailalso, it can only crawl |
_ did species with scarlet flowers, pro- | when the earth is moist with rain or ©
_ duced in May and June; and JZ. | dew: as when the ground is dry it |
tigrinum grows six feet high, and | | absorbs too much of the slime which |

both slugs and snails are obliged to |

There are many other hardy species | them to glide along. There are

and are certainly some of the most |
Lriium.—Liliacee, or Tulipacee. | beautiful plants that can beimagined |

' in June, are well known from being| LiLy oF THE VALLEY.—See Con- ©

in cultivation; and L. eximium, J. |many kinds of slugs, nearly all of |

japonicum, L.longiflorum, andsome | which are destructive to vegetation ;
others eminently beautiful and /the only exception being the shell-

chiefly with white flowers, require | slug (Testacéllus), which lives on ©
the protection of the greenhouse, or | earth-worms. ‘These creatures are ©

a cold frame. The species which are | by no means common; but they are

_ natives of America thrive best in | found in the earth near hothouses, in

sandy peat kept moist when the | the neighbourhood of London, and
plants are in a growing state ; but | they may be known by their dirty
the others grow freely in common | yellow colour, and by their having a
garden-soil. They are allreadily pro- | little scale-like shell, which natura-
pagated by offsets, which they produce lists call the shield or buckler, on the
in abundance. The bulbs of all the | outsideandonthe highest part of the
species are probably edible when | | body, near the breathing- -hole, which
cooked, for those of L. pomponiwn | lit is probably intended to protect.

ne

~
‘

LINUM. 18

Slugs may be destroyed in the same | should be grown in light soil, consist- |
manner as snails.—See He‘rrx. ing principally of vegetable mould ;
Live.—A kind of Citrus, rarely | and the dwarf kinds are very suitable
grown in England, but requiring the | for rock-work. They are generally
same treatment as the orange and | propagated by cuttings or seeds,
the lemon.—See Cr'rrus. which they ripen abundantly.
Limna’NTHES. — Limnanthacee.| Lion’s-zar.—See LEonoris. |
One of the Californian annuals, the| Lron’s-Tatu.--Leondtis Leontrus.
| flowers of which are yellow in the} Liquip MaNuREmay bedescribed
_ centre, with a deep border of white. | as a decoction of any description of
| For the culture, see ANNUALS. putrescent manures, such as guano,
Limno’cHaris. —Hydrocharidec | stable-dung, pig’s-dung, pigeon’s- |
or Butdmec.—These plants, which | dung, sheep’s-dung, &c. It may be
' arenativesof Brazil,areeitherannual | used with great advantage in the
| or biennial, and the seed should be | kitchen-garden, but is seldom re-
| sown ina layer of rich, loamy soil, at | quired in the culture of flowers ; and
the bottom of a cistern or tub, which | indeed many of the finer kinds have
should be kept very moist ; and as| been injured by it, though some few,
| the young plants grow, the tub or| such as the Hydrangeas, the com-
| cistern should be gradually filled} moner Pelargoniums, Chrysanthe-
| with water. They require the heat} mums, Cock’s-combs, Balsams,
of a stove. Auriculas, &c., have been benefited.
Lrina‘r1a. — Scrophularine. —| Liquid manure ought not to be
Toad-flax.—Hardy annuals, thatonly | applied to plants till they have
require sowing in March, April, or | obtained a considerable degree of
| May, in the open border. They will| strength and vigour.
| growinany soil or situation ; butthey LIQUIDA/MBAR. — A mentacee.—
| prefer a rather stiff, poor soil, andan | Though too large a tree to come
| open, exposed situation. Several of | within the scope of this work, it may
thekinds have beenremovedfrom the | be mentioned for its ornamental
genus Antirrhinum (Snapdragon), | appearance when quite young, from
to which they are very nearly allied. | the brilliant purplish-red assumed by
Linna'a. — Caprifoliacee. — A | its leaves in autumn. It is quite
trailing plant, adapted forrock-work, | hardy, and will grow in any common
or pots, as it is too insignificant in | garden soil that is tolerably moist.
its appearance to produce any effect | Liquorice.—See GLYCYRRH'IZA.
in the open garden. It should be! LirrtoprE’/NpRon.—Magnoliacee.
grown in loam and peat, and it may |_—'The Tulip-tree grows to a still
| be propagated by cuttings, which | largersizethanthe Liquidambar; but
should be struck under a hand-glass. | it is very ornamental from its flowers,
Lr'num.—Linacee.— The Flax. | which somewhat resemble those of
| —The common Flax, the fibres of the ; the Parrot-tulip, and its curiously-
_ stalk of which are used to makelinen, | shaped leaves. It seldom flowers till
has pretty blue flowers: but there|it has become a large tree. The
are other species of the genus with | seeds, which are imported from
| showy yellow flowers. Some of the} America, often lie two years in the
| perennial kindsarerather tender, and | ground before they come up.
require to be protected during severe| Lista’/NtHUS.—(Gentidnee.—Lig-
winters ; they are also liable to | neous, perennial, and biennial plants,
damp off if kept too moist. ‘They | natives of the West Indies, which

LISIANTHUS. |

LITTZA.

188

LOGWOOD.

require a hothouse or greenhouse in | and long spikes of flowers. The fine

England. ZL. Russellianus has hand-
some purple flowers ; but it is very
difficult to cultivate. The following

plant formerly known as Buona-
| partea jémcea, is now called Littea
gemimifiora. They should be grown

method is said to be the best. The | in sandy loam, and are increased by
seed should be sown in March, in a} suckers from the roots.

compost of three parts loam, two Losam.—Clayis oneof the primitive
parts vegetable mould, and one of | earths, of so close and compact a
silver sand, and the pots placed in a | texture as to be almost unfit for
hotbed at a temperature of about 70°. | vegetation, unless mixed with some
The frame should be shaded till the lighter material; but combined with
young plants have expanded their | sand and decayed vegetables, it forms
fourth leaf. In June the young | loam. What are called sandy loam,
plants should be potted separately in | and yellow loam, are two kinds of
60’s, and then returned to the frame, soil very conducive to vegetation ;
and shaded for about tendays. They | and sandy loam is perhaps the best of
should remain in the frame till Sep- | all soils for a garden.

tember, being gradually hardened so! Loa‘sa. — Loasacee. — Stinging
as to be ready to take out of the | annual and biennial plants, with
frame about the end of that month, | showy flowers. The splendid climb-
when they should be removed to a | ingplant, L. lateritia, or awrantiaca,
warm dry shelf in a greenhouse. is now discovered to be Caidphora
Here they should remain till Febru- | punicea, the difference between the
ary, having no more water than will | genera consisting in the Caiophora
be sufficient to keep them from flag- | having a twisted seed-pod, while that
ging. The first week in February | of the Loasa is plain. The species
they should be put into a cucumber are all nearly hardy, but they do best
frame, and well supplied with water. | when raised on a slight hotbed, and

As soon as the plants begin to grow
they should be repotted, and placed in
a frame heated to 75°, in which they
should be plunged in charcoal dust.
They should be watered twice a
week till May, and then every
alternate day, with rain-water and
liquid manure alternately. Early in
July they will come into flower, and
may then be removed to the green-
house or drawing-room. One plant
has been known to have 300 blossoms
exposedatonetime. L. acutdngulus
has no beauty to recommend it.
Lissa/NTHE. — Epacridee.—The
plants should be grown in a green-
house, in peat and sand ; and they
are propagated by cuttings of the
tips of the shoots, like heaths.
Litr#\a or Lytr#'a.—Bromeli-
acee.—Handsome plants, nearly
llied to Agave, with spreading leaves

planted out in May.

| Lose't1a. — Lobeliacee. — No-
thing can exceed the beauty of the
plants retained in this genus, some of
which are tender, requiring a stove,
and others of which are quite hardy,
growing freely in the open ground.
Some also are quite dwarf, and others
tall plants ; sorae are blue, others
scarlet, and others yellow; and some
areannuals, and theothers perennials.
All the Lobelias require a light rich
soil, and plenty of moisture. The
large, tall-growing kinds, with scarlet
or pink flowers, are now frequently
called Tupa.

LoBLoLLy Bay.—See Gorpo'nra.

| Locust Tree of the Americans,
or Cobbeti’s Locust. — Robinia

| Psetid-Acacia.—See Rosita.

| Loewoop.—Hematézylon cam-

| pechianum.—A leguminous stove-

eS

LORANTHUS. 189 LUPINUS.

shrub, which grows best inloamand; Lorp ANson’s Pea.—JLdthyrus

peat, and is propagated by cuttings. | magelldnicus.—See La’tuynrvs.
Lonpon Pripre.—Sazifraga, or| Loupo'n1a. — Haloragee. — L.

Roberisonia umbrosa.—See Saxi'-| aérea is a Swan River shrub, the

FRAGA. flowersand seed-vessels of which vary
LonicErRA. — Caprifoliacee. —| from a rich golden yellow to an
The upright or Fly Honeysuckle.— | orangered. J. floréscens, discovered

Great confusion exists in botanical} by Mr. Drummond, in 1843, has
works respecting the scientific names | flowers which are of a very pale
of the different kinds of Honeysuckle. | yellow or lemon colour. Both re-
Generally speaking, however, the | quire the usual culture of Australian
climbing species are called Capri-| shrubs. The genus was named by
foliwm, and the upright, erect shrubs | Dr. Lindley in compliment to Mr.
Lonicera. The latter kinds are all} Loudon.
quite hardy, and will grow in any| Love Appie.—The Tomato.—
common soil; and they are propagated | See Lycopn’rRsiIcum.
by cuttings planted in the open; LOVE LIES BLEEDING.—Amardn-
groundinautumn. JL. tatarica, the | tus cawdatus.—See AMARA'NTUS.
Tartarian Honeysuckle, and J. Lo'wEA.—The new name for Rosa
Xylésteum, the common Fly Honey- | berberifolia.
suckle, are the commonest kinds. Lucu‘t1a.—Rubiacee.—L. gra-
Loose StriFE.—See Lystma‘cuH1A.| tissima is a remarkably fragrant
Loper’z1a.— Onagracee.—Annuual | plant, with large flowers, something
and biennial plants, hardy, half-| like those of the Hydrangea. It is
hardy, and tender; but with light, | grown in a greenhouse, in a mixture
feathery, pink-flowers, and pretty | of light turfy loam and peat; and
ball-like fruit, which is produced on | it is propagated by cuttings, which
long stalks, and is very ornamental. | require bottom-heat. Z. Pinceana
For the culture, see ANNUALS and | isa new species which was introduced
BIENNIALS. in 1843. It is a very handsome
LoPHOosPE’RMUM. — Serophula-| plant, with large white flowers,
rine.—Beautiful climbing plants, | which are exceedingly fragrant.
with pink, bell-shaped flowers, which! Luna‘ria.— Cruciferw. — Hon-
grow luxuriantly in the open border, | esty.—Hardy annual and perennial
covering a trellis-work ora wallinan | plants, which will grow in any com-
incredibly short space of time. As! mon garden soil, and only require
the plants are kijled down to the| the usual treatment of their respec-
ground in winter, cuttings should be | tive kinds.—See Annvats and Prr-
taken off in autumn, and kept in a| ENNIALS.
greenhouse or frame during winterto| Luprne.—See Lupr'nvs.
plant outinspring. The plants will| Lupr'nus.— Leguminose. — The
grow in any common garden soil, | Lupine.—A genus of herbaceous
provided it is tolerably light, and| annuals and perennials which con-
that they have abundance of space| tains some of our most beautiful
for their roots. border flowers : yellow, blue, white,
Loquat TREE.—See Erropo’tryA. | and pink Lupines are among the
Lora’ntuus. — Loranthacee. — | oldest border annuals; L.ndnus is a
A kind of Mistletoe, generally found | beautiful little annual, with dark-
on the Oak ; common in Germany, | blue flowers, a native of California,
but not yet introduced into England. | and requiring the usual treatment of

LYCIUM.

190

LYCOPERSICUM.

Californian annuals. JL. mutdabilis,
and L. Cruckshdnksii are splendid
plants, growing to the height of four
or five feet, and branching like
miniature trees; L. polyphgllus and
its varieties are perennials, and they
are splendid and vigorous-growing
plants, with spikes of flowers from one
foot to eighteen inches in length ;
L. nookaténsis is a handsome dwarf
perennial, and ZL. arboreus when
trained against a wall will attain six
feet in height, and in sheltered situa-
tions it will grow with equal vigour
trained as a bush tied to a stake;
L. latifolius is a perennial from
California, with very long spikes of
blue flowers. All the species will
thrive in common garden soil: the
annuals are propagated by seeds sown
in February or March, and the
perennials, by division of the root.

Lyca’/steE.—Orchidacee.—A ge-
nus of orchideous plants, which varies
considerably in the different species,
some of the kinds being extremely
ornamental, and others very much
the reverse. L. Skinnevt is the
most ornamental species. The plants
comprised in the genus were for-
merly included in the genus Maxil-
laria, and they belong to that class of
stove orchidee, which grow bestina
pot or basket, or leaf-mould, mixed
with lime rubbish, or potsherds.
The species are generally natives of
Guatemala.

Ly’cunis.—Silendcee, or Caryo-
phgllee. —Beautiful flowers, nearly
allied to the Pinks ; some of which
such as the Ragged Robin (Lichnis
Flosciculi), grow wild in the hedges
in England. They are nearly all
hardy, and may be grown in any
common garden soil.

Ly’crum. — Solanacee. — Box-
thorn.—Thespeciesare mostly hardy
shrubs with long slender shoots,
which trail on the ground or ascend
among the branches of larger shrubs

or trees, according as they may be

circumstanced. Liyciwm barbarumn,
the Duke of Argyle’s Tea Tree, is

hardy shrubs, producing, when esta-
blished a year in good soil, shoots ten
or twelve feet long; LZ. curopeum
is almost equally vigorous; and Z.
Trewianum, in a warm sheltered
situation, will grow to the height of
twenty feet. Scarcely any shrub
will cover a bower, or naked wall,
or trellis fence in so short a time,
and the fruit, which is of a coral
colour, is ornamented as well as the
flowers. The species mentioned have
only one disadvantage, which is, that
their roots run to a great distance,
and throw up numerous suckers ; and
this peculiarity renders the plant
unfit for small gardens, though well
adapted for confined court-yards or
narrow passages, the side walls of
which are to be covered with verdure.
A single plant on a lawn trained with
a stem to the height of ten or twelve
feet, and then allowed to spread on
every side over frame-w in the
form of an umbrella, will not only
cover this frame-work, but produce
shoots which will hang down to the
ground on every side, and thus form
a complete curtain, which may be
drawn aside like that of a window or
bed, and will close again of itself on
the spectator. These species are
easily propagated by cuttings of the
roots or shoots in any common soil
rather dry than moist. ZL. &frum is
a very beautiful species, with large
violet-coloured flowers, butitrequires
the protection of a wall; and JL.
Boerhaaviefolium, recently changed
to Grabéwskia, is remarkable for the
singularity of its leaves, which are
covered with a mealy whiteness ; it
also requires the protection of a wall.

Lycopr’Rsicum. — Solanacee.—
The Tomato, or Love-apple (LZ. escu-

| léntum Don; Solanum Lycopérsi-

‘one of the most vigorous-growing |

LYSIMACHTIA.

191

MADIA.

cum Ten.), is generally grown for its |

fruit, which is eaten as a sauce, &e. |
It is, however, very ornamental when
the fruit is ripe, from its large size |
and brilliant colour. There are |
several kinds, varying in the size and
the colour of the fruit. Nearly all
the kinds are annuals, which should |
be raised on a hotbed, and planted |
out in May against a wall or an

espalier railing, to which they should |

soil, and abundance of sun and air | June and September.

to bring them to perfection.
Lycopo’p1um.— Cryptoganuia Ly-
copodinece.—Club-moss.—A curious
kind of moss, common in Europe and
America, some of the kinds of which
are very ornamental. L. helvéticum,
which is very handsome, is generally
grown in pots in greenhouses. It
should be grown in peat and loam,
and allowed abundance of water. L.
cesium is a new species lately intro-
duced from China, whichis extremely
ornamental from the beautiful glau-
cous bloom which appears to be on
the fronds. A variety of LZ. c. arbo-
rewm is exceedingly handsome.
LysImMa'cHIA. — Primulacee. —
Loose-strife. — Herbaceous plants
with yellow flowers, chiefly peren-
nials, and of which one species, L.
Nummularia (Moneywort) is a well-
known ever-green trailer, which,
when kept in a pot of moist soil,
will produce shoots of two or three
feet in length, which hang down on |
every side. JL. vert icillata is an
upright-growing
dance of showy yellow flowers, which
look very well planted in the bor ders |
of a large garden. They will grow |
in any common garden soil. The
most showy species of the genus is,
however, Z. nutans, with dark red
flowers, a native of South Africa but
flowers freely in the open air during
summer ;
tion from frost in the winter.

plant, with abun-

Ly'taHruM.—Lythracee.—A ge-
nus of very ornamental hardy peren-
nials, which grow in any common soil
| kept moist, and are propagated by
division. JL. Salicaria is a native
of Britain on the banks of rivers,
and grows to the height of four feet ;
CL. diffisum grows to the height of
one foot; and both these Species
| produce their purple flowers in July

or August, when flowers are com- |
be trained ; they all require a rich | paratively rarer than they are in |

grows three feet high, and produces
its purple flowers from June to
September.

Lytrz'a.—See Lirrz\s.

ACLU'RA. — Urticacee.—The
Osage-orange.—A handsome de-
ciduous tree, with small shining yel-
lowish green leaves and many thorns.
The flowers are white and rather
small; but the fruit, which is as
large as an orange, and of a brilliant
golden yellow, is very ornamental.
These trees are as yet rare in British
gardens, but they have borne fruit in
the Jardin des Plantes in Paris. The
male and female flowers are on
different trees. It is supposed that
the leaves of this plant will be equally
good as those of the White Mulberry

_ for feeding silk-worms, as theyabound

in a milky juice which is very tena-
cious. The Maclira succeeds better
in rather a poor soil; as where the
| soil is too rich, the plant makes
shoots more luxuriant than it can

ripen ; and thus the tips of the |

young wood are often killed by frost.
MapDper.—See Ru'sra.

L. virgatum ©

Ma‘pia. —Compésite.— M. sa- |
tiva is a weedy-looking plant, grown ©

in Germany for crushing its seeds
to make oil. MV. élegans (Madaria
elegans Dec.) is a coarse growing

and only requires protec- | annual, with woolly leaves and very |
pretty yellow flowers, which are

MAGNOLIA.

192

MAGNOLIA.

brown in the centre. The seeds | first or second year. M. conspicua
should be sown in the open air in | is a deciduous tree, which produces
_ abundance of white flowers about the

February, or as soon as the weather

| will admit, in rich deep soil; or in
_ sheltered situations, the seeds may
_ be sown in autumn, and the young
| plants left to stand the winter.
| When the plants begin to attain a

considerable size, they should be
staked and tied up, or they will have

| a very untidy and disagreeable ap-

_ is acomparatively rare variety, with | awriculatais a beautiful hardy tree,

pearance. Thekind called M. splén-
dens is only a variety of M. élegans.

Macno'tia. — Magnoliacee. —
This is a genus of singularly orna-
mental trees, mostly of small size,
and some of them shrubs. JM.
grandifiora, the evergreen Magnolia,
the most desirable variety of which is
M. g. exoniénsis, is a well-known
highly prized tree, generally planted
against a wall. Though it will only
flower freely in favourable situations,
yet itis very hardy, not having been
killed anywhere by the severe winter
of 1837-8. Inevery villa, whatever
may be its extent, one or two plants
of this Magnolia ought to be placed
against the house, or onaconservative
wall. It will thrive in a loamy soil,
rather rich ; but it will grow siill
better in peat, and it requires no
attention but training the branches,
and nailing them against the wall.

sometimes even in March. It is

size of lilies, in April and May, and

quite hardy, but as its flowers appear
so early, they are liable to be injured
by spring frosts; they also appear
before the leaves, and for these
reasons the tree should be planted
against a wall, and if possible near
M. grandiflora, so that the branches
may intermingle, in which situation
it produces a splendid effect. It
never grows out of bounds, and
therefore requires no pruning. It
will thrive quite well as a standard
in any common soil, and planted
among evergreens in sheltered situ-
ations forms a splendid object when
in flower. WM. c. Soulongeana is a
hybrid between this species and M.
purpurea, equally splendid in its
flowers; and this hybrid, . conspi-
cua, and M. grandiflora, ought never
to be omitted in any garden, where
ornamental flowering trees are re-
quired. M. purpurea is a shrub
which will thrive in the open border,
but it flowers best against a wall,
and no plant is better deserving a
place there. M. acuminata, with
bluish flowers, and M. cordata, with
yellowish ones, are as hardy as most

+ produces its large flowers which | flowering trees, and the former will
are from six inches to a foot in| attain the height of thirty or forty
diameter when fully expanded, from | feet in fifteen or twenty years ; both
August to October. MM. g. pra’cox | deserve a place as standards. M.

broader leaves than M.g. exoniénsis, | with mahogany-coloured bark, and

and still larger flowers, and they |

appear in July and sometimes in
June. In purchasing both kinds in

smooth shining leaves with reddish
veins ; it ought also to have a place
in every collection of trees. The

the nurseries care should be taken | flowers of this and of the two pre-
to select plants which have been | ceding sorts are not fragrant like
raised from layers; as seedlings, | those of M. grandiflora and M.
which are now sometimes imported | conspicua. M. tripétala has leaves
from France, are often ten or fifteen | so large, that in America it is called
years before they come into flower: | the Umbrella-tree; the flowers are
whereas the others will flower the white and fragrant. It requires a

Eee ————————————eeee———————_———e————————————————e ee

MALACHODENDRON.

193

peat soil kept moist, and forms a
splendid object on a lawn. WM.
macrophylla is a comparatively rare
species with white flowers, the petals
of which have a purple spot at the
base, and the leaves are of an
enormous size. It thrives best in
this country in deep sand. WM.
fuscata is a greenhouse shrub with
brown-coloured flowers delightfully
fragrant, which well deserves a place
in every conservatory, and which,
in very warm situations, will live
through the winter against a con-
servative wall. In general, the
Magnolias may be designated the
aristocratic trees of a garden, whe-

ther we regard the large size and |

fragrance of their flowers, or the
length and breadth of their enormous
leaves. The bark and wood of all
of them are fragrant, and may be
used as a substitute for those of the
Cinchona.

Maua‘LEB.—The Mahaleb Plum
or Cherry.—See Cr‘RASUs.

Mano'nta. — Berberidew. —The
Ash Berberry. — Very handsome
evergreen shrubs with pinnate leaves,
and bearing abundance of brilliant
yellow flowers, which are succeeded
by purplish berries. All the kinds
grow freely, and are very ornamental.
but M. Aquifoliuwm, the leaflets of
which somewhat resemble the leaves
of the Holly, is by far the handsomest
andhardiest species. The Mahonias
will grow in any common garden soil,
and are increased by layers. M. fas-
cicularis is rather tender, and should
have some slight protection during
severe frosts.

-Marmen-Hatr.—See ADIAn’tUM.

MALACHODE'NDRON. — Ternstre-
mitcece.—A handsome bushy shrub,
which may be trained as a low tree,
with large white flowers. It should
be grown in sandy peat, and it is
propagated by layers or cuttings, the
latter of which, however, require

MALAY,

sand, a bell-glass, and bottom-heat, to
make them strike root.

Matco'm1a. — Cruciferce. — The
Virginian Stock.—A pretty little
annual which only requires to have
its seeds sown at almost any season,
to grow freely and to flower abun-
dantly. Asnearly all the seeds are
sure to come up, it may be sown as
an edging plant instead of Box or
Thrift ; and in fact it is often used
for this purpose in cottage gardens.

Mate Fern.—Aspidium Filiz-
mas.—A very handsome species of
Fern for growing in shrubberies.

MALESHE’RBIA. — Malesherbia-
cee.—A very pretty Chilian half-
hardy annual, with blue flowers, the
seeds of which should be sown on a
hot-bed in February, and the young
plants planted out in May.

Matitow.—See Ma’tva.

Ma’tope. — Malvacece.— Annual
plants with very handsome flowers.

M. trifida of which there are two
kinds, one with crimson and the
other with white flowers, is rather
dwarf; but M. grandiflora will grow
four or five feet high in a good soil
and an open situation, bearing very
large and showy brilliant crimson
flowers. All the kinds are quite
hardy, and only require sowing in
March or April in the open border,
and thinning out and transplanting,
when the young plants are three or
four inches high.

Matpr’cat1a. — Malpighiacee.—
The Barbadoes Cherry.—A trailing
plant, a native of the West Indies,
which requires a stove in England.
It should be grown in a light loamy
soil, and it is propagated by cuttings
of the ripe wood.

Ma’tay.—Malviicee.—The Mal-
low.—A great number of different
species are grown in British gardens,
tender, half-hardy, and hardy peren-
nials and annuals. They are all of
the easiest culture according to their

1)

ie i

MANETTIA.

194

MANURES.

respective kinds; and the hardy
species may be grown in any soil or
situation.

MamMILia’RIA. — Cactacee. —
Succulent plants, with almost glo-
bularstems covered with prickles, but
without leaves ; the flowers growing
out of the stem without any stalk.
These plants are natives of the high
table-land of Mexico, where they are
subject to very few variations of tem-
perature ; and they should therefore
be kept in greenhouse heat all the
year in England. In their native
country they grow in rich loam, and
therefore require a better soil in this
country than the different kinds of
Céreus and Echinocéctus, which
grow among calcareous rocks, in the
mould formed by the deposition of
vegetable matter in the fissures. By
attending to these particulars, the
Mammillarias may be easily grown
in any situation where they can be
preserved from frost. When kept
in a room they should be allowed as
much air as possible ; and the dust
which lodges among their spines
should be frequently blown off with
a small pair of bellows, but the
plants themselves should never be
watered overhead.

Mane‘t11A.— Rubiacee.—Climb-
ing plants some of which require a
stovein England ; though one species,
(M. cordifolia Hook. ; M. glabra
Dec.) which has very handsome
bright scarlet tube-like flowers, is
generally grown in a greenhouse. It
is a native of Buenos Ayres, whence
it was introduced in 1831, and, like
many plants from that country, it
will very probably stand the summer
in the open border in England. It
should be grown in a mixture of
sandy peat and loam ; and when kept
in a pot, it should be allowed plenty
of room for its roots, and abundance
of fresh air as often as possible. It

is propagated by cuttings, which |

must be struck in sand, with bottom-
heat.

Maner’FERA.—Terebinthacee.—
The Mango Tree.—A native of both
the East and West Indies, with white
flowers, which requires a stove in
England. The fruit is said to be of
remarkably fine flavour in its native
country. The plant in England
should be grown in very sandy loam,
and the pots well drained, as it is
very apt to damp off.

Manco Tree.—See MANGI’FERA.

MANGOSTEEN. — Garcinia Man-
gostana. — This celebrated fruit,
which is so highly spoken of by
travellers in Java, &c., belongs to
the same genus as the Gamboge tree,
and both require a stove in England.
They are, however, very seldom
grown in this country.

Mantr'sia. — Scitaminee. — M.
saliatoria, the Opera Girls, isa plant,
the flowers of which appear before
the leaves, and which really look
something like dancing figures fan-
tastically dressed. Theplantrequires
a stove in England, and it should be

growh in a mixture of turfy loam,

peat, andsand, keptrather moist, but
well drained. It is increased by
dividing the root.

ManurRgEs, in Floriculture, are
little wanted, and in general leaf-
mould, or hotbed dung, or any kind
of fermentable material, consist-
ing chiefly of vegetable matter, is
to be preferred.—See LEAF-MOULD.
Thoroughly decomposed stable-dung
is produced by turning it over every
three or four weeks in summer, when
fermentation is active, or three or
four times in winter, when it is more
slow; and in either case it is fit for
use when it can be passed through a
coarse sieve. It is to be mixed with
the soil in proportions dependent on
the nature of the plant to be culti-
vated. In general, rapid-growing
plants, such as bulbs of every kind,

eee

a

MARSH PLANTS.

require the thoroughly decomposed
manure, but strong vigorous plants
which grow all the summer, such as
Dicotyledonous annuals and peren-
nials, may bemanured with materials
in a less decomposed state. All
manures should be preserved in com-
pact masses, so as to present as small
a surface to the action of the atmos-
phere as possible, and a shaded
situation is consequently preferable
to one exposed to the free action of
the sun and air.

Mara’nta. — Cannece. — The
Indian Arrow-root.— Stove-plants,
with tuberous roots and small white
flowers. The powder called Arrow-
root is made from the tubers.

MaRE’S-TAIL.—See Hippu'RIs.

Ma’rica. — Jridew, — Fibrous-
rooted plants, with very ornamental
flowers, greatly resembling those of
the Cape bulbs; natives of Africa,
some of which require a stove and
others a greenhouse in England. For
culture, see AMARY’LLIS.

MarIGoLD.—See Caun’NDULA.

MarJoRaM.—See Ori'Ganum.

MarsH MaricoitD,—Cdaltha pa-
lustris.—A British marsh or aquatic
plant, sometimes introduced in ponds
and other artificial pieces of water, in
garden scenery, to give themanatural
appearance, or to hide their termina-
tion. The plants only require to be
planted in the muddy banks of the
water, if it be a pond; butifit bea
river, they should have a stone or
two laid on their roots to prevent
them from being washed away by the
stream.

MarsH Prants are of different
kinds : those which grow in common
soil, saturated with moisture through-
out the year; those which grow in
soil, saturated or covered with water
during winter and spring; and those
which grow in peat-bogs. A few of
themare ornamental ; suchas Meny-
dnthes trifoliata and Cémarum pa-

195

MARTYNIA.

liastre, which are proper Marsh
Plants ; Damasdnium vulgare, and
Raniineulus Lingua and Flammula,
which grow in soils sometimes dry
during summer; and Parndssia
palistris, which grows in peat-bogs
|and springy soils. In gardens, bogs

soil in pots, or sunk boxes, with
retentive bottoms and sides, so as to
retain water. Where there is an
‘aquarium, or pond for plants, it is
| very often surrounded with a broad
| border or margin of soil, raised a few
inches above the level of the water
in the pond, and which is kept
| moist by the exudation of the water.
To prevent the exudation from exten-
ding farther than the border, the
bottom and the outer margin are
formed of masonry lined with clay.
A very common mode, and one of the
best, is to place the plants in pots or
tubs, and to set these on supports in
the water, so that the bottom of the
pot or tub may be only a few inches
covered by it. In this way the soil
about the plant is kept sufficiently
moist without the risk of any excess.
Among Marsh Plants may be reck-
oned the different kinds of Sedge,
some of which are very ornamental ;
the Buck-bean, the Water Violet,
the Sweet-scented Rush, the Forget-
me-not, the Marsh Bedstraw, and
many others.

Martacon Lity.—Those Lilies |

which have the segments of the
perianth so completely turned back,
as to form no bad representation of a
Turk’scap. Inthe midland counties
these flowers are called Turnagain-
gentlemen. For their culture, see
Ly’Lium.

* Marry’nra.— Pedalinee.—Half
hardy annuals, with very oily seeds,
which require to be raised on a hot-
bed, but which may be planted out
in May. WM. fragrans is the most
beautiful.

a

are easily imitated, by placing the |

1

MAURANDYA. 4

96

MAXILLARIA.

—<+

MaRVEL OF Pervu.—See Mrna’-
BILIS.

Mastic Tree.—A kind of Pis-
tacia tree, producing the gum
mastic.

Marrar'oLa.— Crucifere.—The
Ten-week Stock is an annual which
should be raised on a hotbed, and
transplanted into a very rich sandy
loam in May. The remains of celery
trenches which have been made in a
sandy or calcareous loam form the
best soil for Stocks of all kinds ;
but where this kind of soil cannot
be obtained, sand or chalk, enriched
with vegetable mould, will do ex-
tremely well. The finest Stocks I
ever saw were in a garden at Green-
hithe, the soil of which was chalk,
and in Mrs. Humphrey’s garden at
Shenstone, the soil of which was a
loamy sand ; and though both these
were biennial Stocks the same soil
would have grown the annual ones
equally well. Some of the finest
Stocks in British gardens are from
seed raised in Germany and Rus-
sia ; and the plants raised from this
seed are called Germany and Rus-
sian Stocks. For the culture of
the biennial species, see Brompton
Stocks.

Mavra’npyA.— Scrophularine.
— Elegant climbing plants, with
beautiful dark blue or purple
flowers, which are rather tender,
and are generally killed in winter,
if planted in the open ground. They
do not require much room for their
roots, and generally flower best in
a pot, as their roots are so weak
and delicate as easily to be killed
by having coarse-growing plants
near them. M. Barclaydna thrives
best in a pot with wires fixed in the
rim for it to run over (see fig. 35) ;
and thus treated, it forms an ex-
tremely beautiful object in a balcony
garden. All the Maurandyas should
be grown in a light rich soil; and

they are increased by seeds or cut-
tings.
MAXILLA‘RIA.—Orchidacee.—A
very extensive genus of Epiphytes,
some of which have their flowers

' hanging down from their roots, and

FIG. 35,—POT FOR TRAINING THE
MAURANDYA.

are grown in baskets of moss, the
husks of cocoa nuts, or on pieces
of wood with the bark on, or hung
by wires to the rafters of the
damp stove or orchideous house.
Some of the species have upright
flower-stems, and are grown in
pots in brick rubbish, mixed with
sand, or heath-mould, and a little

MEDINELLA. 197 MELIA.
loam. Most of the kinds are! M. eximia, has white wax-like
handsome, and some have splendid | flowers, with a yellowish- brown

flowers.

MayAppLe.—See Popopuy’LLUM.

May’tenvs.— Celastrinee.— An
evergreen shrub, a native of Chili,
with yellowish flowers, which are
produced in great abundance in
May. It is nearly hardy, and only
requires a slight protection during
severe frosts.

Merapow Sarrron.—The popu-
lar English name for Colchicum.

MeEcono'psis.— Papaveracece.—
The new name for the Welsh Poppy,
Papaver cambricum L. This plant,
which has yellow flowers, is a native
of mountainous places in Wales ;
and it is easy of culture in any soil
which is poor rather than rich.

Mepica‘co. — Leguminose. —
Weedy-looking plants, with yellow
pea-flowers, which are generally
single or in small clusters. The
seed-pods of many of the species
are very curious, some resembling
snails, others hedgehogs, and others
beehives. In old seed catalogues
these names are all found enumer-
ated ; but they are omitted in those

of the present date, as the plants to |

which they belong are found not
worth growing.
MEDINE’LLA.—Melastomacee.—
This is a very splendid genus of
shrubs from the Malay Peninsula,
and the Eastern Archipelago. Most
of the species inhabit damp forests,
and Dr. Blair states that he has
seen some of them climbing up trees
from sixty to eighty feet high. The
most beautiful species is probably
M. magnifica, introduced about
1850, and sometimes called M.
bracteata in the nurseries. The
bracts of the flowers of this species
are rose-coloured and very orna-
mental. In Great Britain, it re-
quires a moderate stove or warm
greenhouse. M.

calyx, and deep rose-coloured sta-
mens.

MELALEU'cA.— M yrtadcee.—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with very singular
tassel-like flowers, which the first
settlers in New Holland called the
Tea Trees, and which are nearly al-
lied to Metrosidéros. One species, M.
nerifolia, which has yellow flowers
with petals, has been removed to the
genus Tristania; MW. Cajuputi, from
which the Cajeput oil is made, and
M. Leucadéndron, the Black and
White Tree, are natives of the
East Indies, and require a stove in
England ; but all the Australian
species are greenhouse plants. One
of the handsomest of these, M.
filgens, has its flowers in a long
spike, which looks like a bottle-
brush. All the kinds should be
grown in a compost of sand, loam,
and peat ; and they are all propa-

| gated by cuttings.

MEta’NTHIUM—WMelanthacee.—
Pretty little plants with bulbous
roots and blackish flowers, mostly
natives of the Cape of Good Hope,
and requiring the usual treatment
of Cape bulbs.

MELa’stoMA.—WMelastomacece.—
Very handsome stove shrubs, with
large showy flowers. The leaves are
also large and stronglyribbed. The
fruit is eatable, and filled with a
black pulp; whence the name of
Melastoma, or Black-mouth, is said
to be given to it, because it stains
the mouths of those who eat it. All
the species are natives of Ceylon
and other parts of the East Indies ;
and they all require to be grown in
peat, and kept rather dry during
winter.

Me'11a.— liacem, — The Bead
Tree.—M. Azedardch, the common
Bead Tree, is a half- har dy shrub, or

Siéboldiana, syn. | tree, with lilac flowers and yellow

SS Es ee

a

MELOCACTUS.

198

MENYANTHES.

berries, the pulp of which is poison- | tropics, and should be kept in a dry

ous; but the hard stone in the
centre is used to make rosaries.
There is another species, M. semper-
vivens, which is a native of the West
Indies, where it is called the Indian
Lilac, or Pride of India. Both
kinds are generally kept in the
stove in England, where they will
ripen their seeds; but the first kind
does very well against a conserva-
tive wall, and it has flowered in
the open air at Bayswater and other
places. It will grow best in loam
and peat, and it is propagated by
cuttings.

Mettia/NTHUS.— Rutacee.— The
Honey -flower. — A half-shrubby
greenhouse plant, with bluish-green
or rather gray, leaves, sometimes
called Sicilian Ragwort. If planted
in the open air, and slightly pro-
tected from frost, it will grow ten
feet high, and produce its large
spikes of brownish red flowers
abundantly.
Cape of Good Hope. It should be
grown in a light rich soil if it be
wanted to attain a large size; or in
sand, mixed with a little loam and
lime-rubbish, if it be wanted to
flower while yet of a small size. It
looks very well trained against a
south wall.

Me t'ssa.—Labiate.—The Balm.
—None of these species are par-
ticularly ornamental, but they are

worth growing for the fragrance of |

their leaves. They are all hardy
perennials, which will grow in any
soil or situation, and which are pro-
pagated by dividing the root.
MeELoca/ctus.—Cactacee.—The
Melon Thistle.—All these plants
have a sort of crown of cottony sub-
stance, which sometimes grows to
an enormous size. The flowers are
generally red, and are produced
around this crown. They are na-

It is a native of the |

|

stove in England. They should be
grown in a little sandy loam, mixed
with two-thirds of lime rubbish ;
and the pots in which they grow
must be well drained with cinders,
as they are very liable to damp off
or rot, if any stagnant water be
suffered to remain about the roots.

They are very much improved by |

plunging the pots in which they
grow into tan, and thus affording
the plants bottom heat.

Merton TuistTLe.—See ME1oca‘c-
TUS.

MENISPE’RMUM. — Menispermd-
cee.—Handsome climbing shrubs,
natives of Europe, and North Ame-
rica, with curiously shaped leaves,
racemes of yellowish or greenish
white flowers, and red or black
berries, which have somewhat of an
intoxicating quality. M. canadense,
which is the commonest species, is a
hardy free-growing climber, admi-
rably adapted for covering a wall or
arbour in a very short time, and in
a very ornamental manner. It is
well deserving of general cultivation,

-and yet it is -comparatively little

known, perhaps on account of the
modest colour of its elegant little
drooping racemes of flowers, which
are generally hidden from common
observers by the leaves. Its English
name of Moonseed is derived from
the shape of the seed, which resem-
bles a crescent or half-moon. It
will grow in any soil or situation ;
and it looks very well on a lawn
trained up a single pole, and with
the extremity of its branches left to
spread themselves at pleasure. It
also looks very well trained to form
a pillar, or to frame with an um-
brella top, &c.

Menya'‘nTHES. — Gentianee. —
The Buck-bean. —The European
kinds have white flowers, but some

tives of the hottest parts of the |of the exotic species, now called

te ih ee tl nen nesses nn nein th tts

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM.

199

MESPILUS.

Villérsia, which are natives of
Australia and the Cape, are very
handsome, with very showy yellow
flowers. They are all marsh plants,
and should be sown or planted in the
mud or soft ground left by the
water. Some of the kinds are only
half-hardy.

Menzte'sta. — Zrictcece.— Little
heath-like plants, formerly included
in the genus Erica, natives of Eu-
rope and North America. The
commonest kind (M. polifolia), St.
Dabeoc’s Heath, is found wild in
Treland. The flowers are larger

and more globular than those of the
common Heaths, and much hand-
somer. They are quite hardy, and
only require to be grown in sandy
peat or heath-mould.
MESEMBRYA'‘NTHEMUM. — Ficéi-
dec.—The name of Mesembryanthe-
mum signifies mid-day flower ; and
this name admirably expresses the
habit of the plants, their flowers
only expanding in the brightest
sunshine. The English name of
Fig Marigold alludes to the fruit,
which is shaped like a fig, and which
is eaten by the Hottentots ; and to
the flower, which resembles that of
a Marigold in shape, and sometimes
in colour. There are two kinds of
Mesembryanthemum which are
called the Ice-plant, M. glaciale and
M. crystéllinum, the former being
an annual, and the latter a biennial
—and they take their English name
from the little globular protube-
rances, or rather blisters (which
botanists call papulz), filled with a
soft watery matter, which glisten
over the whole of the plants, and
make them look as though they
were covered with ice. The flowers
of these plants are white; but there
are other Mesembryanthemums with
pink or purple flowers, and those of
the commonest and hardiest kind,
M. pomeridianum, are of a brilliant |

yellow. This kind is an annual,
the seeds of which should be sown
on a hotbed, and the young plants
transferred to the open ground in
May ; and they should be always
planted out in the open border, as
they never flower well in a pot. The
perennial kinds may be grown either
in pots, or in the open ground ; but
in the latter case they should either
be taken up or carefully protected
during winter, as they are killed by
the slightest frost. They should be
grown in sandy or gravelly soil,
which, for the larger-growing spe-
cies, may be mixed with a little
loam : but even of these, the poorer
and more sandy the soil, the more
brilliant will be the colour of the
flowers, though the leaves and stems
will become small and weak. All
the species should be kept quite
dry when in a dormant state, and
abundantly supplied with water
when they are about to flower ; and
all the perennial kinds are propa-
gated by cuttings which should be
kept dry for several days after they
are put into the ground till they
begin to wither, when they should
be supplied with a little water, and
they will directly begin to throw
out roots. The pots in which these
plants are grown should be well
drained with cinders; and when
planted out in the open air, it should
be on a dry, open, sunny bank.
MeEspitus. — Rosdceew.—This is
one of those genera which have been
dismantled and almost annihilated,
by modern botanists. A few years
ago, almost all the flowering shrubs
and low trees included in the order
Rosaceze, were referred to Méspilus.
All the Cratzguses, a great number
of the Pyruses, the Arénias, Ame-
lanchier, Eriobétrya, and many

other allied genera, were all con-
sidered to belong to Méspilus.
Now, however, the genus Méspilus

lithe gsi i ns

MIGNONETTE.

200

MIGNONETTE.

is confined to the two kinds of
Medlars; and even of these, MM.
grandiflora seems rather doubtful.
Méspilus germanica, the common
Medlar, and its varieties, are now,
therefore, the sole support of this
once extensive genus; and they
are not only trees of considerable
size, but trees that, notwithstanding
their large white blossoms, are too
coarse growing to be called orna-
mental.

MErROSIDE'ROS. — Myrtacee. —
Australian and Cape shrubs, with
tassel-like flowers, nearly allied to
Melaletca. One species (M. vérus),
the Ironwood, is a tree and a native
of the East Indies, The most beau-
tiful of the Australian shrubs for-
merly considered as belonging to
this genus, are now removed to the
genus Callistémon ; and these have
generally crimson flowers. The re-
maining species are generally kept
in a greenhouse in England, but
they may be grown in the open air,
if they are slightly protected during
winter; and in sheltered situations
they will often stand several years
without any protection whatever.
They should be grown in a mixture
of sandy loam and peat, but any
common garden soil will do; and
when grown in the open air, they
should be trained against a wall.
They are propagated by cuttings of
the ripened wood, which cannot be
struck without the help of sand,
bottom-heat, and a bell-glass.

MicNnoneTTE. — Reseda odorata.
—This well-known plant is gene-
rally considered as an annual, and
sown every year as such ; but it is,
in fact, a shrub, and if preserved
carefully through the winter, in two
or three years its stem will become
quite woody. In this state it is
called the Tree Mignonette, and is
supposed by many to be a different
species. It is a native of Barbary,

and grows wild on the sandy shore
of Algiers. The name, Mignonette,
which is French for ‘‘ the little
darling,” is supposed to have been
given to it on account'of its seeds
having been first sent to England
from Paris. It is rather singular,
however, that it should be known
by a French name in England,
while in France it is called by its
Latin name of Reséda.

Mignonette should always be sown
in light sandy soil, if possible; as
when grown in a rich loam, it loses
its fragrance. With a little manage-
ment, it may be contrived to have
Mignonette in flower every month
during the year, without the aid of
either a regular gardener or a hot-
house. In order that the plants
may flower in winter, the seeds
should be sown in the open border
in July. Or, if it be more conve-
nient, the seeds may be sown in
pots in that month, placing the
pots in a balcony, outside a window,
or in any situation where they will
have abundance of light and air.
In September, the plants should be
removed to the pots in which they
are to flower, and only a sufficient
number left in each to make the
pots look full, without the plants
being so crowded as to occasion them
to be drawn up. This number
must, of course, vary according to
the size of the pot; but it should
never exceed eight, or be less than
three. The pots should then be
taken into the house, and placed in
any convenient situation in a room
without a fire, till they have formed
their blossom-buds, which will be
the latter end of October, when they
should be removed to a window in a
room where there is a fire; when
they will throw out abundance of
branches, and will continue flowering
beautifully during November, De-
cember, and January ; and if they

MIGNONETTE.

201

MIGNONETTE.

are regularly watered every day, | taken outof their box, and removed

till the following March. Theseeds
of the plants which are to come into
flower in March to succeed them,
should be sown in pots at the latter
end of August, and the pots may be
placed in a spare bedroom, or in
any open shed, or other situation
under cover, where they will have
plenty of light, and can have air
occasionally. Early in November
they should be thinned out, or
transplanted, so as to leave only six
or eight plants in a pot, and these
pots should be plunged into a shallow
box or packing-case, half filled with
coal-ashes, and placed in a cellar,
or back-kitchen, or, in short, any
place where they will not have much
heat, and yet be protected from
frost. While in this situation, they
should be regularly watered once or
twice a week; and as no light is
better than only a little, they may
be covered with a piece of old
carpeting, or an old ironing-blanket
supported by a few sticks stuck in
the earth, so as to prevent it from
crushing the plants by its weight.
In this situation, though they will
become quite blanched, they will
grow freely, and be well-shaped
plants ; while, on the contrary, if
they had not been covered, as they
could not be put in a window on
account of the danger from frost,
they would have become etiolated,
or drawn up, with weak, ill-shaped
stems, in the efforts they would
have made to reach the light. Be-
sides, the blanket will save them
from being injured by frost. About
a fortnight before they are wanted
to flower, the blanket may be taken
off, and the box removed to the
window of the kitchen, or some
place where there is a constant
fire; when the plants will soon
become quite green, and will form
flower-buds. The pots may then be

to the room where they are to flower,
having been first put into other
pots, somewhat larger than them-
selves, and the interstices between
the two being stuffed with moss,
which may also be laid on the
surface of the earth in the inner
pot; or, if moss cannot be easily
obtained, double pots will suffice,
the outer one being only just large
enough to admit the inner one. A
third crop may be sown in Feb-
ruary, in pots which may be kept
under shelter till all danger is over
from frost, and which may be then
set out on window-sills, or in any
other situation in the open air, and
which will flower in May, June, and
July, continuing in flower till they
are succeeded by a fourth crop sown
in April, in the open ground, or in
pots in the open air, which will
come into flower in July, and con-
tinue till November.

When it is wished to obtain a
plant of Tree Mignonette, a healthy
vigorous plant of Mignonette sown
in April should be placed at the
proper time for transplanting in a
pot by itself, and the blossom-buds
should be taken off as fast as they
appear. In autumn, all the lower
side-shoots should be cut off, so as
to shape the plant into a miniature
tree, and it should be transplanted
into a larger pot, with fresh soil,
formed of turfy loam broken small,
but not sifted, and sand. It should
then be removed toa greenhouse, or
warm room, and by being regularly
watered every day, and kept tole-
rably warm, it will remain in a
growing state all the winter, and by
spring its stem will begin to appear
woody. It should be treated in the
same manner the following year, all
the side branches being cut off as
they appear, except those that are
to form the head of the tree; and

eee

MILDEW.

by the third spring it will have
bark on its trunk, and be com-
pletely a shrub. It may now be
suffered to flower, and its blossoms,
which will be delightfully fragrant,
will continue to be produced every
summer, for a great many years in
succession.

Many persons save their own seed
of the common Mignonette ; but it
is hardly worth while to do so, as it
is generally both good and cheap in
the seed-shops.

Mi_pEw.—Rose-trees and many
other plants are very apt to be
affected in autumn with a white or
brownish appearance on the leaves,
which is sometimes called the blight,
but more properly rust or mildew.
The cause of this appearance was
long unknown ; and some supposed
it to be produced by unhealthy wind,
and others that it was the work of
insects : it is now, however, satis-
factorily proved to be a parasitic
plant or Fangus growing on the
leaves, as Lichens and other Fungi
grow on the bark.

The parasitie Fangi, known ‘by
the general name of mildew, are of
three kinds ; viz. those that grow
on the surface of the leaf, those
which form under the epidermis or
outer skin, and those that attack
the root. The first kind may some-
times be removed by abundant
watering; which not only gives
vigour to the plant, but actually
tends to loosen the hold the Fungus
has taken of the leaves; but the
second kind can only be stopped
in its career by the removal and
burning of all the infected leaves ;
and the third generally occasions(
the death of the plant. The dif-
ferent kinds of Urédo (from wro, to
burn or scorch), which look as
though the under side of the leaves
were covered over with a brown
powder, and the different kinds of

202

MIMOSA.

icidium which rise like pimples

over the leaves, and burst when
ripe, are the most destructive. The
smut which attacks the corn crops
belongs to the first of these genera,
and the Berberry mildew to the
last. The root mildew generally
attacks bulbs; and when the
Crocus is cultivated for saffron,
sometimes the entire crop is thus
destroyed. Many remedies formildew
have been recommended, but none
can be depended upon; and the
best means of preventing its ap-
pearance seems to be keeping the
plants in a state of vigorous growth ;
as it is found only on such plantsas
do not appear to have had sufficient
strength to resist its attacks,

MitFort.—See AcHILLE'A.

MILKVETCH.—See AsTRA‘GALUS.

MiLkwort.—See Poty'eana.

M1’'LLa.— Asphodéleew.—A Mex-
ican plant, with flowers of the most
brilliant and purest white, which
continue expanded day and night,
till they fade, instead of closing at
night, as is usual with plants of the
same family. They will grow in
any common soil, and only requirea
slight protection from frost, such as
covering with dead leaves, &c.,
during winter.

Minro'n1a. — Orchidacee. — A
very beautiful epiphyte from Brazil,
with its flowers on erect seems, like
those of the Cattleya which this plant
somewhat resembles. Though an
epiphyte, it is generally grown in
England in a pot, in loam, mixed
with sand and rubbish, and it
requires the same treatment as
other orchidaceous epiphytal plants
which will bear being grown in pots.

Mimosa.—Leguminose.—To this
genus belongs the Sensitive Plant, of
which there are three species, the
leaves of all of which shrink at the
touch ; M. pudica is the Sensitive
Plant most cultivated in hothouses,

taped aS SD

MIMULUS,

though WV. sensitiva is also very gene-
rally cultivated; the former, however,
is a shrub, and the latter an annual
ora biennial. Both may be raised
on a hotbed in spring, with the
tender annuals, and either kept in
pots throughout the summer, or
turned out into the open border about
the end of May.
formerly included under the genus
Mimésa are now removed to Acacia ;
the principal distinction between
the genera being that Mimosa has a
jointed seed-pod, which Acacia has
not. Several other genera have also
been formed out of Mimosa. Some
of the kinds are stove-plants ; others
thrive in a greenhouse; and M.
marginata Dec., (the M. prostrata
of the nurseries, ) is sufficiently hardy
to stand ordinary winters against a
conservative wall. They should be
all grown in a mixture of loam and
peat; and they are propagated by
seeds or cuttings. See SENSITIVE
PLANT.

Mi'muLus. — Scrophulérine. —
The Monkey-fiower.—The first Mi-
mulus introduced into Britain was
M. ringens, in the time of Miller,
and M. glutindsus, a shrubby spe-
cies, with orange flowers, was the
second. Since then numerous spe-
cies have been introduced from
North and South America, prin-
cipally annuals and perennials. All
the herbaceous kinds of Mimulus
cross freely with each other, and
thus a great number of showy
plants have been raised, particularly
by Mr. James M’Nab, of the Royal
Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. They
should all be grown in a compost of
peat and loam, and supplied abun-
dantly with water ; indeed, when
grown in pots they should be kept
constantly standing in saucers full
of water. They are all very nearly
hardy; and M. réseus, M. cardi-
nalis, and M. moschatus will grow

Many species"

203

MOMORDICA.

in the open air, for several years
withont any protection, dying down
to the ground in winter, and spring-
ing up and flowering abundantly.
every spring. The shrubby kinds
are now separated from the others,
and formed into a new genus,
under the name of Diplacus.
Di’piacus.) The name of Monkey-

plant alludes to the seeds, which |

are marked so as to bear some re-
semblance to the face of a monkey.

Mrra'BILis.— Vyctagineew.—The
Marvel of Peru. — These plants,
though generally treated as annuals,
have fusiform tuberous roots, which
may be taken up every year and re-
planted, like those of the Dahlia.
They require a rich soil.

MrrBe'tia.— Legumindse. —An
Australian shrub, with pretty pea-
flowers ; which is generally kept in
a greenhouse in British gardens.—
See AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

MIsTLETOE.—See Vi'scum.

Motucce'tia.— Labiate.—Mol-
davian Balm.—A hardy annual,
which only requires sowing in March
or April in the open border, in any
common garden soil.—See ANNUALS.

Mo'‘ty.—A kind of garlic, with
very pretty yellow flowers.—See
A’LLIUM.

Momo’rpica.— Cucurbitacee.—
The squirting Cucumber.—An an-
nual gourd-like plant, with woolly
leaves and yellow flowers, the fruit
of which resembles a small Cucum-
ber ; and which, when ripe, bursts
the moment it is touched, scattering
its seeds and the half-liquid pulpy
matter in which they are contained
to a considerable distance. This
quality made it a favourite in gar-
dens a century ago, when* some
people were yet in a state of
sufficient barbarism to find amuse-
ment in the annoyance of others ;
but it has now deservedly fallen
into disrepute, and is seldom grown.

(See |

MONOCOTYLEDONOUS PLANTS.

Monacua’ntTuws. — Orchiddcee. |

—The Monk Flower.—An orchid-

eous epiphyte from Demerara and

Brazil, requiring the usual treatment
of similar plants. — See ORcHIDEOUS
EPIPHYTES.

Mona’rpa. — Labiate. — Hardy
herbaceous plants, with showy
flowers, natives of North America,
they grow best in a rich light soil ;
and they are increased by dividing
the root. Monarda didyma pro-
duces the Bergamot.

Money Wort. — Lysimachia
Nummularia.—A trailing plant,
with yellow flowers, which should
be grown in peat, or some other
light soil, and kept moist. Its long
trailing shootslook very well hanging
over the sides of a rustic basket or
vase, supported on a pedestal, or
rock-work ; and in such situations,
if kept moist, it will flower abun-
dantly; while the same plant
removed into the shade will not
produce a single flower, and is easily
killed if watering be neglected.

Monk FLower. — See Mona-
CHA’NTHUS.

Monkey Firower.—See Mr’mv-
Lus and Di'pLacvs.

Monx’s Hoop.—See Aconr'rum.

MonocHLAMY DEZ.—Plants hay-
ing only a calyx and no corolla ; in
opposition to DichiaAMy‘DEx, which
are the plants which have both a
calyx and a corolla.

MonocoryLeDONouUs PLANTs are
those, the seeds of which send up
only one cotyledon or seed-leaf when
they vegetate, and have leaves, the
veins of which are in parallel lines.
The ligneous or woody plants be-

longing to this division increase

very little in thickness during the
whole period of their existence ; and
their wood consists of fibrous matter,
fresh quantities of which are de-
posited every year within the stem.
—See Enpocens.

204

MORMODES.

Monecious Pxiants are those
which have the male and female
flowers separate, but still on the
same plant; while Diactous plants
are those which have the male and
female flowers distinct, and on
different plants.

Mono’psis. — Lobeliacee. — A
very beautiful little trailing plant,
having dark-blue flowers with con-
spicuous yellow anthers, and the
flowers on long footstalks. It is a
native of the Cape of Good Hope,
and it should be grown in sandy
peat. It is suitable for rock-work.

Monso'nta.—Geranidcee.—Very
beautiful herbaceous plants, nearly
allied to the Geraniums, but with
much larger flowers, and named in
honour of Lady Anne Monson. They
are now rarelyseen, but well deserve
cultivation. They should be grown
| in a mixture of vegetable mould and
_loam, and kept in a greenhouse.
| They are propagated by cuttings, or
by dividing the roots. They are
| natives of the Cape of Good Hope.

MoonsEED.—See MENISPE’RMUM.
Moon TREFoIL.—WMedicago ar-
borea.
Moor Heatu. — The English
name of GyPsoca’LLIs.
| Mor#w'sa. — Iridee. — Bulbous- —
| rooted plants, with very handsome
| flowers, nearly allied to I’xia, from
_ which genus they have been removed.
They are generally grown in pots,
in a mixture of sandy loam and
| vegetable mould; and when they
have done flowering they should be
kept dry till they begin to grow in
spring. When planted in the open
ground, they should be protected
from frost and heavy rains.
Morica’nb1A. — Cruciferw.— A
very pretty hardy annual, which
should be sown in the open border
in March or April. M. Ramburitis
| a native of Spain, introduced in 1856.
Mormo'pes.—Orechidacee.— An

MOSSHOUSES. 2

05

MOSSHOUSES.

ordered from local nurserymen ad-

orchideous epiphyte, with dark-

purple flowers, from the Spanish
Main. It should be grown on a
piece of wood.—See ORcHIDEOUS
EPIPHYTES.

Mo’rna. — Compésite. — Beauti-
ful half hardy annuals, with ever-
lasting flowers, which should be
raised on a hotbed, and planted out
in May.

MossHOUSES are constructed of
wood lined with rough boards, to
which moss, generally of several
different kinds, is attached by cord
or wire, and nails. The roof is also
covered with boards, to which is
fixed sometimes thatch, and at
other times heath, or the mossy
bark of oak, pine, birch, or other
old trees. The floor is generally
paved with blocks of wood, or some-
times with small pebbles, or any
other material, according to fancy.
The ceiling is generally lined with
moss in the same manner as the
side walls, and both may be formed
into panels, according to the taste
of the designer. There are a great
many kinds of Moss and Lichens
which may be used for lining moss-
houses. Of terrestrial Mosses, those
which are most common are the
Dicranum glatcum, which is of a
whitish green, and Bryum hérnum,
which is of a yellowish green ;
Sphagnum acutifolium is of a pink-
ish colour, and S. obtusifoliwm is of
a yellowish white. The commonest
Tree Moss, or technically Lichen,
is Cenémyce rangiferina, the Rein-
deer Moss, which is found on the
Ash, and on many other trees, and
is white. This Moss also grows in
great abundance on poor gravelly
soils, among heath; for example,
on Bagshot Heath, near London.
Any quantity of the green mosses,
and also of the yellow kinds, may
be purchased in Covent Garden

_ Market: and the Reindeer Moss, if

joining heaths, may be collected by
the same persons who supply them
with the other Mosses. Almost
everything in an affair of this kind
must be left to the fancy of the
designer. Some of the handsomest
mosshouses in England have been
erected in Bagshot Park, the seat of
the Duchess of Gloucester, by her
Royal Highness’s very intelligent
gardener, Mr. Toward. Mosshouses
must not be confounded with root-
houses, which are formed with fan-
tastic roots, or with wood houses,
which are formed with branches of
trees with the bark on. When a
mosshouse is to be erected, the first
thing to be done is to make a draw-
ing of the effect that it is intended
to produce, and then to prepare the
frame. If the mosshouse is to be
only a kind of alcove open in front
and without windows, it will be
easy to get some wood, and any
man-servant who can use a saw and
a hammer can put it together ; but
if it is to have a door and windows,
a regular carpenter must be called
in. In the first case, young Pine
and Larch trees that have been cut
down in thinning plantations will
do very well. When the framework
is completed, laths must be nailed
across the compartments, between
which the moss is thrust with a
wooden knife, or blunt chisel, the
root end being lowest. The great
art consists in arranging the moss
so as to form a pattern : and this is
accomplished by sorting the moss
into heaps of the different colours,
tracing the pattern rudely on the
laths, and keeping a coloured copy
of the design before the operator.
The moss should be so contrived as
completely to hide the laths, and it
should also be pushed in to a sufii-
cient depth to be quite firm. The
lines of the figure should be quite

———— ee
ne

MOULD.

distinct, and the colours clear and
well contrasted.

Mortu.—Moths are distinguished
from butterflies by flying at night
instead of during the day; and by
their antennze, which are pointed,
and sometimes feathery, instead of
terminating in a knob like those of
the butterflies. Moths are more

difficult to entrap in their perfect

state than butterflies, as they are
rarely seen by day; but a diligent
search should be made for their eggs,
and their caterpillars should be de-
stroyed assoon as they are hatched
if possible, while they are quite
small.

Movu.p.—Thoroughly decomposed
leaves or putrescent manure, mixed
with sand or other light soil, is
called mould, which is chiefly distin-
guished from soils by its containing

| butasmall portion of earthy matter;

hence we have leaf-mould, composed
chiefly of rotten leaves ; dung-mould,
of dung reduced to a dry powdery
matter ; and heath-mould, consis-
ting of the black vegetable soil
found on the surface of heaths, and

_ always more or less mixed with
| sand. The two first kinds of mould

are used for growing plants which in

cultivation are considerably removed |

from a state of nature, such as
Pelargoniums, China Roses, Fuchsias,
Balsams, Petunias, and a_ great
many others ; and the heath-mould
is used in the culture of Heaths
and of Ericaces, and more or lessin
most New Holland and Cape shrubs
and bulbs. In general, all plants
whatever, from the Oak to the Moss,
will grow in heath-mould alone, and
therefore it is a particularly useful
soil in which to raise seedlings ;
and in this respect it differs mate-
rially from leaf-mould and dung-
mould, in which they will not grow.
Garden-mould is composed of de-
cayed vegetables and manure mixed

206

MOVING PLANT.

with the finer part of the soil,
thoroughly pulverised by repeated
digging, raking, and hoeing.

Mountain AsH.—Pyrus aucu-
paria.—A well known tree, very
ornamental in shrubberies for the
abundance of red berries with which
it is covered every autumn. It is
quite hardy, and will grow in any
soil and situation.

Mouser. — Mice are sometimes
troublesome in gardens in country
places, particularly where there are
many bulbs planted, as they eat the
solid bulbs or corms. To prevent
their ravages chopped furze is some-
times buried with the bulbs, or the
clippings of thorn hedges or rose
briars are laid over the bed.

Movutan.— The Tree Peony is

generally called the Moutan, or |

Botan, in China; and several new
and splendid kinds have been intro-
duced by Mr. Fortune since the year
1846. Some of these kinds are a
pure white, others scarlet, others
salmon colour, and others purple of
various shades. One was reported
to be yellow, but it proves to be
|only straw colour of a very faint
‘tint. All the kinds are very orna-
mental ; and some of them in their
native country, Japan, acquire a

in a single season.

Movine Priant. — Desméidium
gyrans, a native of the East Indies,
which requires a stove in Great
Britain. It has pea flowers not
remarkable for their beauty, and
it derives its name of Moving Plant
from the singular motion of its
leaves, ‘which, when the sun is
shining full upon them, begin to
turn and quiver in a most extra-
ordinary manner. Sometimes only
one or two leaves will move slowly
up and down, as though each turned
on a pivot, but at other times the
whole tree appears in a violent state

woody stem eight or ten feet high

MOWING. 207 MUSCARI,

of agitation, every leaf trembling as Moucu'wa.— Leguminise.—Cow

though it were shaken by some in-
visible hand.

MowinGisan operation performed
with the scythe, and in ornamental
gardening it is used for the purpose
of keeping the grass quite short and
smooth. It is the most laborious
operation which falls to the lot of
the working gardener, and in large

_ places there are generally a set of

labourers, who are not gardeners,
who are kept on purpose for it.
A substitute for mowing with the
scythe has lately been introduced in

_ the form of a mowing machine,
which requires far less skill and

_ exertion than the scythe, and an-|

' swers very well where the surface

of the soil to be mowed is perfectly
smooth and firm, the grass of even
quality, and the machine only used
in dry weather. It is particularly
adapted for amateurs, affording an
excellent exercise to the arms and
every part of the body: but it is
proper to observe that many gar-
deners are prejudiced against it.
Where a lawn is varied by numerous
small beds or single trees or bushes,

_ the scythe is required, in addition to
_ the machine, for mowing up close
_ to the branches or stems of the

plants ; but where an amateur mows
his own lawn with a machine, a
better instrument than the scythe
for the purpose mentioned, is a pair
of common hedge-shears, with which

the grass may be clipped as short |

as it can be mown. When a lawn
is newly formed, and the soil is rich,
it will require to be mown every
eight or ten days for the first and
second summers; but afterwards,
when the soil becomes exhausted,
and the grass grows with less vigour,
once a fortnight for the three sum-
mer months will suffice, and once
every three weeks or a month for
the autumn,

Itch.—M. pririens is a stove plant
with large drooping racemes of very
beautiful dark-purple pea-flowers.
The legumes or seed pods are
covered with long brittle hairs,
which cause an intolerable itching
if applied to the skin. The species
is a native of the West Indies, but
other kinds are found in the East
Indies, where the pods are skinned
and eaten, cooked like kidney beans.
The seeds, which are large, round,
and flat, with a scar running all
round them, are sometimes called
asses’ eyes.

Mutcuine is seldom used in
flower-gardens, though it may be
applied advantageously to Camellias
and Magnolias, and any other half
tender shrubs. It consists in laying
a quantity of straw, or litter round
the stem of the plant, so as to cover
the whole of the roots during winter.
and either removing it or forking it
into the ground in spring.

MvuLieIn.—See VerpBa’scum.

Mu'sa.—Musacee.—The Plan-
tain, or Banana.—Stove plants,
grown generally for their fruit, but
very ornamental from their large
leaves and curious flowers. Most
of the species require a great deal
of room, as they will neither flower
nor fruit till they attain a large size.
They should be grown in a rich loam
kept moist, and they are increased
by suckers. The new kind, Misa
Cavendishii, flowers when of a much
smaller size than any of the other
kinds.

Mosca‘ri. — Asphodélew. — The
Grape Hyacinth. — Bulbous-rooted
plants, that only require planting
in any common garden-soil, where
they may remain several years,
flowering every year in succession,
without any care being necessary in
taking them up, &c. The Starch
Hyacinth (M. racemdswm) takes its

MYRTUS.

name from its flowers smelling like
starch.

Musk Piant.—There are two
plants known by this name, viz.
Mimulus moschatus, a dwarf plant
with yellow flowers ; and A’ster
argophillus, a tall plant with blue
flowers.

Morr‘sta.—Compésite.—Curious
plants, with tendrils at the extre-
mity of the leaves. They are natives
of Brazil, and require a stove in
England. They should be grown
in peat and loam, and they are pro-
pagated by cuttings.

Myan’tHvus.— Orchidacee.—F ly-
wort.—An Orchideous epiphyte from

| Demerara, which should be grown
_ in a moist stove on half-rotten wood.
—See OrncHipEOous EPIPHYTES.

_ Holland.

MyernpDa.---Rhamndacee.---Hand-
some shrubs, nearly allied to the
Holly ; natives of the West Indies.
They are generally stove plants in
England, and they should be grown
in sandy loam.

Myoso‘rs. — Boraginee. — M.
palistris, the Forget-me-not, de-

| lights in moist places on the border
_ of running streams.
| which is found in woods, resembles

M. sylvatica,

it, but the flowers are very inferior.
Myri'ca. — Myricacee. — The

| Candleberry Myrtle and the Sweet

Gale belong to this genus, and they
are both interesting to the botanist.
They should be grown in loam and
peat, and they are propagated by
cuttings.
My’rivus.—Myrtdcee.—A genus
of beautiful evergreen shrubs, na-

tives of Europe, Asia, South Ame- |

rica, and some of them of New
The common Myrtle,
M. commamnis, of which there are

| eight or ten very distinct varieties,
is too well known to require any

description. Myrtles are not sur-
passed in beauty of foliage by any
other exotic shrub ; the flowers are

208

MYRTUS.

of a pure white, and, like the leaves,
fragrant. The fragrance arises from
an oil which is secreted in little
cells, which appear as dots when
the leaves are held up to the light.
The handsomest varieties of the
common Myrtle are the Roman, or
broad-leaved, the broad-leaved
Dutch, and the narrow-leaved and
deuble-flowered. They will grow
in any common soil, somewhat
loamy, and are propagated with
most facility by cuttings of the
| current year’s wood, when it is just
beginning to ripen, cut across at a
joint and then planted in sand, and
covered with a bell-glass. Cuttings
will root, however, taken off at any
season, and treated with common
care. When cuttings are made of
the old wood they should be planted
to the depth of half the space
between the buds, as shown in fig.
36. Myrtles may also be raised
| from seeds, which are produced

FIG. 36.—A CUTTING OF A MYRTLE PRE-
PARED FOR PLANTING ; THE DOTTED
LINE SHOWING THE GROUND.

freely by the broad-leaved kinds.
| M. bullata is a native of New Zea-
land, and has blistered leaves. Its
native name isRama-Rama. JM. to-
mentosa is a native of China, with
woolly leaves and purple flowers,

— half hardy shrubs

Se ee ee

NAPOLEONA.

which appear in June and July.
M. Piménta, now made Piménta
vulgaris, is a uative of the West
Indies, requiring a stove, and is the
plant producing the common Allspice
of the shops. The common broad-
leaved Myrtle will stand the winter
against a conservative wall, in dry
soil, in most parts of England, and
also in Scotland, more particularly
in low situations, near the sea.
At Nettlecombe, in Somersetshire,
there are large trees covered with
flowers. In most parts of Ireland
it is as hardy as the common Lau-
rustinus is in the climate of London.
Garden hedges are made of it at
Belfast, and also at Cork.

against a wall is an operation
that should be performed with great
care; and as the sole object of
growing the shrubs is on account of
their being ornamental, nothing
should be shown which tends in the
slightest degree to injure this effect.
For this reason the nails should be
small and round headed, and strips
of leather or black tape are prefer-
able to list. Leather is sometimes
preferred to list, even for fruit trees,
because it does not harbour insects ;
but it is too expensive to be used on
alargescale. In nailing ornamental
shrubs, the branches should not be
kept so close to the wall as fruit-
trees, as half their beauty would be
lost if they were deprived of their
loose shoots. All that is required
is to train the trunk and main
branches.

Napoieo'na. — Belvisiacee. —
N. imperidlis is a very singular
plant, with flowers which, when
fresh, are apricot-coloured and
crimson, but which, when dying,
assume a bluish tint. The whole
appearance of the genus is so remark-

—e

209

NASTURTIUM.

able as to render it necessary to
constitute a new order for it between
Cucurbitacee and Passifloracee.
NV. imperialis was first brought to
England in 1848.

NAPOLEON’S WEEPING WILLOW.
—This Willow differs from the
common kind in several respects,
and it is probably the male variety
of Salix babylénica, of which only
the female was formerly known in
England. It is of much slower
growth than the common kind, and
therefore much better adapted for
planting in a shrubbery.

Narcr’ssus.—A maryllidacecee.—
The genus Narcissus isa very ex-
tensive one, embracing as it does,
the Jonquils, the Polyanthus Nar-
cissus, the little Hoop Petticoat, the
Poet’s Narcissus, and the Daffodils,
besides numerous others. The late
Mr. Haworth paid great attention
to this genus, and divided it into
thirteen new genera, none of which,
however, have been adopted by
other botanists, though their names
have been preserved in the sections
into which the genus Narcissus is
now divided. All the Narcissi are
quite hardy, and will grow in any
common garden soil ; and they are
all increased by offsets. They may
be left in the ground several years
without sustaining any injury ; the
only care necessary in their culture
being not to shorten or cut off the
leaves after the plant has flowered,
but to leave them on till they wither
naturally, as their assistance is
necessary to mature the new bulb,
which forms every year in the place
of the old one. It is the more ne-
cessary to attend to this, as many
gardeners, from a mistaken idea
of neatness, cut off the leaves of
the Narcissi as soon as the flowers
have faded, and in this way first
enfeeble, and finally kill the plants.

Nasturtium.—See TRoPz'‘oLUM.

5

a

210°

| and the descending roots.
| point has been called the heart of

NEMOPHILA.

NERINE.

NAVELWORT.—See CoTYLE'DON.
Neck of a plant.—The collar,
collet, neck, or vital knot, is the

| point of junction from which spring

the ascending stem and branches,
This

the plant, because any injury done
to it causes instant death.

NeEtvu’MBium.—Nympheacee. —
The Indian Lotus, or Sacred Bean
of India. A stove aquatic, generally
with white or pale-pink flowers ;
rather difficult to flower in this
country, as it requires great heat
and abundance of room ; the seeds,
also, which are sent over from India,
rarely vegetate. The seeds should
be sown in rich loamy soii in the
bottom of a large tub, which should
be kept full of water while the
plants are growing, but which may
be allowed to become dry when the
flowers have faded. The plants are
increased by dividing the root, or by
seeds. There are two West Indian
Nelumbiums ; one of which has
pale-blue, and the other pale-yellow
flowers. It must be observed, that
the Nelambium, or Indian Waiter-
Lily, differs essentially from the
Egyptian Water Lily, which flowers
freely in a stove aquarium.—See
NyMpH#'A.

Nemopa’NTHES. —Celastrnec, or
Aquifoliacee.—The new name for
Dlex canadénsis.

Nemo’puita.—Hydrophyllacee.

“Beautiful little annual plants, na-
tives of California, that require the
usual treatment of similar plants.—
See CALIFORNIAN AnnvuaLs and An-
NUALS. The most beautiful species is
probably the common blue kind, JV.
insignis ; but there are three others,
viz. NV. atomaria, the flowersof which
are white with black spots ; V. pha-
celioides, the flowers of which are
almost black; and N. maculata,
introduced in 1848, the flowers of

which are white, with a dark purple
spot on each petal.

NEPE’NTHES. — Cytinew.— The
Chinese Pitcher Plant. There are
two species in common cultivation ;
one a native of China, and the other
of Ceylon; both of them being
marsh plants, and requiring the

| pot in which they grow to stand
in a saucer full of water. NV. distil-
latdria grows above eight feet high,
and it shows a tendency to curl its
tendrils round other plants, or any
object within its reach, so as to
support its pitchers, which are at
the extremity of its tendrils. Both
species should be grown in a peaty
soil, and they both require the heat
of a stove. Neither the flowers nor
the fruit have the slightest beauty
to recommend them. Some new
Pitcher-plants, which are said to
be distinct species, have been

| recently introduced.

Ne’peta.— Labiate. —Catmint.
—Hardy herbaceous plants of no
beauty, which grow freely in any
common soil.

NerNE. — Amaryllidacee. —
Showy bulbous-rooted plants, the
type of which is the Guernsey Lily,
and which are natives of the Cape
of Good Hope, China, and Japan.
The Guernsey Lily is a native of
Japan, and the reason why it has
obtained its English name is said
to be, that a ship laden with these
bulbs and other plants from China,
was wrecked on the coast of Guern-
sey; and that the bulbs being
washed on shore, took root in the
sandy soil of the beach, and flour-
ished there so remarkably as to be
supposed to be natives of the island.
Whether this story be true or not,
it is quite certain that for nearly
two hundred years these bulbs have
been cultivated in Guernsey with
the greatest success, growing freely
in the open air, and producing abun-

|

NERIUM.

211

NICOTIANA.

dance of ofisets every year, from | day; bui as no water should ever
which the English market is sup-! be allowed to remain in a stagnant

plied. In England the bulbs are
generally planted in spring, in pots
of very sandy loam, and placed in
some window or other situation
where the they will have plenty of
light. They flower in September
and October; and as soon as they
have flowered, the bulbs are gene-
rally thrown away, as they are said
never to flower well the second year.
This is, however, entirely the fault
of the grower ; as, if they were
planted in a well-drained sunny
border in the open ground, and

leaves, there is no
would live as long
kinds of Narcissi, and flower as
freely. The bulbs might be pro-
tected in winter by a layer of dead
leaves, or litter from a cow-house ;
and the bed, which should be of
light sandy soil, should be occasion-
ally manured in spring by a layer
of old cow-dung.

Ne‘rium. — Apocynee. — The
Oleander, or Rose Laurel.—There
are three distinct species of Nérium,
besides several varieties. The first
of these is the common Oleander, a
native of Italy, but which is gene-
rally kept in a greenhouse in Eng-
land; the second, which is called
NV. flavéscens, has yellow flowers ;
and the third, NV. oddrum, which
is a native of India, is a stove plant.
The greenhouse species and their
varieties (to which may be added
NV. spléndens, supposed to be a

doubt but they

| hybrid between NV. Oleander and

N. odérum) all require a soil com-
posed of one half loam, one quarter
peat, and one quarter vegetable
mould, or rotten dung; or, if this
soil cannot be obtained, equal parts
of peat, loam, and sand. ‘They
should be regularly watered every

as any of the)

state about their roots, the pots in
which they are grown should have
no saucers. They should also be
repotted at least once every year,
and the soil shaken out from the
roots, as they are plants which
throw out a good deal of excremen-
titious matter, which poisons the
soil in which they grow. This re-
potting should take place in spring;
and, after it has been performed,
the plants should be watered and
set in the shade for a day or two.

| As soon as they begin to grow they
allowed to mature their new bulbs |
every year by the agency of their |

should have plenty of light and air,
and they should be regularly watered
twice a day, observing never to let
any water remain in the saucer, if
the pot should have one, though it
is much better without. Thus
treated, the Oleander will grow
rapidly, and throw out such large
bunches of flowers as to form a truly
splendid object. The stove species
is generally grown in rather a moist
heat ; but it may be removed to the
greenhouse, or even to the open air,
during the hottest months of sum-
mer, if care be taken to water its
roots twice a day, and syringe it
every evening overhead.

NEw ZEaLanD Tea. —Leptospér-
mun scoparium.—

Nica’NprA. — Solandcece. — The
Alkekengi, or Kite-flower. A strong
and vigorous annual, growing five or
six feet high, and throwing out nu-
merous branches. The flowers are
blue, and the fruit is in an inflated
capsule, like that of the Bladder-
nut or Winter-Cherry. It is a na-
tive of Peru, and its seeds should
be sown in March or April, in a
shrubbery or border, where the
plants may have plenty of room,
the seeds being put into the ground
singly, and at least three feet apart.

Nicotra'na.—Solandcee. — The

>)

ad

Ee

NIGELLA.

212

NOLANA.

Tobacco. —All the different kinds of |
‘Tobacco have showy flowers ; but | species.

the handsomest species are WV. Ja-
bacum, the Virginian or common
Tobacco, NV. noctiflora, N. multi-
valvis, and N. longiflora. All these
are annuals, and their seeds should
be raised on a slight hotbed or warm
border; and the plants, when in
their second pair of leaves, should
be transplanted to a bed of light
rich soil, where they should be
planted three feet apart every way.
While the plants are young, the

| joints of the leaves should be fre-
| quently examined, in search of a
| caterpillar which is frequently found

there, and which, if not removed,
will eat off the points of the shoots,

_ and consequently destroy the beauty

| of the plant.

NV. ristica, the com-

| mon, or English Tobacco, the leaves

of which are generally used for
making tobacco-water, &c., should
never be grown in a garden, as the
flowers are of a dirty greenish-yellow,
and the whole plant is covered with
clammy hairs, extremely disagree-
able to the touch.

NIEREMBE’RGIA. —Solandcee.—
There are four species of Nierem-
bérgia, all natives of South America;
viz. NV. gracilis, N. aristata, N.
jilicatlis, and N. calycina, all of
which are pretty little greenhouse
plants, with whitish flowers, but
not at all showy. I have been thus
particular in enumerating the kinds,
because from professor Don and Dr.
Graham having at first supposed
that some of the kinds of Petunia
belonged to Nierembérgia, great
confusion has arisen. The Nierem-

_ bergias should be grown in peat and

sand, and kept regularly watered.
Nier’Ltua. — Ranunculaceae. —
The Fennel-flower, or Devil in a
Bush.—Annual plants, with showy
flowers, which are, however, almost

NV. hispdnica is the handsomest
They only require sowing
in March or April in the open
border: or they may be sown in
autumn, as they will stand the
winter without protection, and will
thus be ready to flower early in
summer.

NiIGHTSHADE.—See Sona ‘num.

Nisso’Lia.— Leguminidse. — The
Grass Vetch.—A rare British plant,
with grass-like leaves and bright
crimson single flowers, which looks
very well on rock-work, where it can
be kept moist.

Nirra‘ria. — Ficoidew. — Low
shrubs with white flowers, which are
very hardy, and will grow well in
situations exposed to the sea. In
gardens, the ground in which they
grow should be uccasionally watered
with water in which saltpetre has
been dissolved.

Nitrate oF Sopa.—This sub-
stance, which is found in great abun-
dance as a natural production of the
earth in South America, is a very
powerful manure; but it must be
applied carefully, or it will make the
leaves look brown and shrivelled. It
should always be mixed well with the
soil in which plants are to be placed,
and not laid on the surface of soil in
which plants are already growing.
When it produces its proper effect,
it gives great vigour to the plants,
and renders the leaves of an intensely
deep green.

NoIsEttE Rosz.—Roses which
bear their flowers in bunches, and
which were named from a nursery-
man of the name of Noisette, in
Paris, who raised the first from seed
of the common China.—For the
culture, see Ro'sa.
~ Noxa‘na.—WNolanacee. --Trailing
annual plants, with pretty blue
flowers, that only require sowing in
March in theopen border. J. aty-

hidden by their leafy involucres. | plicifolia, the handsomest species,

NUTTALLIA.

213

OCYMUM.

strongly resembles the minor Con-| house. They should be grown in

volvulus.

No.ita’NGERE, or NOLI-ME-TA’N-
GERE.—See Impatiens.

No’nEA.— Boraginee.--The name
given to the new genus, divided from
Anchusa, the Bugloss, and which
includes several of the most orna-
mental of the annual species, such as
A.versicolor, A. littea, A. rosea, &c.,
and some perennials. They are all
quite hardy, and the annual kinds

only require sowing in the open bor- |

der in March.

Norro.k Is~tanD Prnge.—Arau- |

caria excélsa.—One of the largest

trees in the world in its native coun- |

try, but which can only be grown
of small size in England, from its
requiring protection during winter.
Norera#'\a.—Oledcece. — Austra-
lian shrubs with white flowers, greatly
resem bling in their leaves and general
appearancethe European Olive. They
are generally kept in a greenhouse,
and grown in sandy peat ; but they
are nearly hardy, and make good
shrubs for the background of a
balcony.
NotrHoLe'na.—Filices.—A beau-
tiful genus of ferns, with cordate
leaves, from Mexico; which will

grow in any cool greenhouse or'|

fernery.

No'pHar.—Nympheacee.—The
yellow Water-Lily.—A British plant,
common in stagnant water. The
popular name is Brandy Bottle, from
the flowers smelling like brandy.
They look very well in ponds, or
even cisterns, where they will grow
freely if the seeds are sown in a
layer of loam at the bottom. The
plants may also be increased by
division.

Norra’Li1a.— Malvacee.--Beau-
tiful poppy-like perennial plants,
which may be planted out in sum-
mer, but which must be protected
during winter in a frame or green-

light rich soil, consisting principally
of vegetable mould, witha littleloam ;
and, when in flower, they are very
beautiful.

Nycra’NTHES.—J/ asininee.—The
Indian Jasmine. This plant, which
is generally grown in a stove in
England, gives out its odour only by
night, and is the plant alluded to by
Moore in the following well-known
lines :—

|

The timid Jasmine buds, that keep
Their odour in themselves all day ;

But, when the sunlight dies away,
Let the delicious fragrance out

To every breeze that roams about.

The plants should be grown in loam
and peat, and would probably succeed
'in a greenhouse, as it is found that
they do not flower well if they are
kept too hot.

Nympu#)s. — Nymphedcee. —
The Water Lily.—One species of this
beautiful plant grows wild in Eng-
land; but there are others which
must be grown in the aquarium of a
hothouse to induce them to flower in
|England. They should be grown in
a rich loamy soil, and kept in the
warmest part of the stove. Among
the Eastern kinds, perhaps the most
interesting are the blue Lotus, JV.
cerilea, and the crimson lily of
India, N.ribra. N.dentatais very
handsome, and WV. pygmea is valu-
able for the small size of its flowers,
and for being almost hardy. JW.
élegans is a Mexican species with
pale violet, sweet-scented flowers,
and NV. acutifolia, the largest blue-
flowered water-lily known, is from
the Cape of Good Hope.

0’ CYMUM. — Labiate. — Basil.
Some of the Hast Indian peren-
nial species are ornamental, and worth
cultivating in the stove, where they
should be grown in sandy loam.

(ENOTHERA.

OponToGcLo'ssuM. — Orchidacee. | rain.

—A splendid genus of Mexican eri- |
phytes, requiring the usual treatment |
of similar plants.—See OrcHIDEOUS
EPIPHYTES.

| «CEnoTHE‘RA. —Onagracee.--The
Evening Primrose.—Perennial, bien-
nial, and annual plants, with large
flowers. The yellow and white-flow-
ering kinds, which are the true |
Evening Primroses, are now the only |
ones left in the genus, the purple- |
flowered ones having been removed |
to the genus GopE‘t1a. The Even-
ing Primroses have the peculiarity

214

ONCIDIUM.

In this state it should remain
till March, when the sawdust should
be removed, and the plant covered
with a hand glass till it can bear ex-
posure to the cold. Bothkindsshould
be grown in a mixture of peat and
loam ; and both are propagated by

dividing the root into piecesabout an |

inch and a half long in autumn, and
planting them.

OFFSETS are a natural means by
which plants propagate themselves.
In bulbs, the offsets are small bulbs
which form by the side of the prin-
cipal one from which they should be

of only opening their flowers in an | broken off when the bulbs are taken
evening, or when the sun is overcast; | up and replanted. In shrubs and
as, contrary to the habits of most | perennial plants, the offsets either
other flowers, they seem unable to| spring from the collar of the old
bear much light. They are all ofthe | plant, or from an underground stem ;
easiest culture, and will grow in any | and in both cases, as they are pro-
common garden-soil, without any | vided with roots of their own, though

other care than occasionally taking | they draw a part of their support

j

upand replanting the perennial kinds,
and sowing the annual and biennial
ones every year in March or April. |
Of the biennial kinds, @. noctirna
and @. villésa, both natives of the |
Cape of Good Hope, are rather ten- |
der ; and of the perennials, @. rosea,
(£. cespitésa, and C2. anisdloba, re-
quire a slight protection during win-
ter. . acatlis, which is a native
of Chili, though a common border
flower, should have a flower-pot or
hand-glass turned over it in severe
frosts; (. cespitisa and C. ani-
sdloba, both splendid plants, should
also be protected during winter, par-
ticularly from heavy rains, as they
are very apt to damp off if they are
exposed totoomuch moisture. Paxton
recommends removing the damp soil
from the roots of these plants when
growing in the open ground in Oc-
tober, and after replacing it with dry
soil, covering the plant with dry saw-
dust, and setting a flower-pot over it,

from the main stem, they only re-
quire dividing and replanting to
form new plants

OILED PaPeER, calico, or silk, is
often used as a substitute for glass
in hotbed frames, for raising seeds
or striking cuttings ; and it is pecu-
liarly adapted for the latter purpose,
as it generates more heat than glass.

OLD Man’s BEarRD.—See GERo-
Po‘GON.

OLEANDER. —See NE‘R1vum.

Onci'p1IuM.—Orchiddacee.--Well-
known orchideous plants, with very
curious flowers. O. papilio, the But-
terfly-plant, is certainly as much like
a butterfly as it is possible to imagine
a flower to be ; and as itis borne on
a long slender stem, which quivers
with every breeze, it forms no bad
representation of a beautiful insect
fluttering over the neighbouring
flowers. 0. altissimum has a spike
of flowers which is sometimes ten or
twelve feetinlength.” All the kinds

the hole in'the bottom having been | are very handsome, and someof them
first stopped to keep outthesnow and | are splendid. They are all natives of

LL

ONCIDIUN.

215

OPUNTIA.

South America, Mexico, andthe West
Indies ; and as they will thrive in a
much lower temperature than the
Dendrobiums, and some of the other
Orchidacez, they are very suitable
for a small hothouse. All the kinds
may be grown in pots, though some
of the smallest appear to thrive most
tied to pieces of wood and hung from
the rafters. The soil should be turfy
peat, broken in pieces about the size
of gooseberries, and mixed with an
equal quantity of potsherds broken
somewhat smaller. The pots should
be large, and filled a third of their
depth with broken potsherds, rather
larger than those mixed with the soil.
Great care should be taken in repot-
ting any of the Oncidiums, as the
roots will be found to adhere strongly
to the sides of the old pot, and thus
are easily broken. To prevent this,
the plants should be shifted as seldom
as possible; and when shifting is in-
evitable, they should be kept without
water for several days beforehand, so
that the plants may be in a flagging
and feeble state, and their roots have
less power of adhesion. All the On-
cidiums should be regularly watered,
but they should not often be syringed
overhead, as they are very apt to rot
if any water should lodge in the cen-
tre, or what gardeners call the heart,
of the plant.

The commonest kinds of Oncidium
are O. flecudsum, a very beautiful
species, with a long, much-branched
panicle of bright-yellow flowers ; 0.
crispum, the flowers of which are of
a copper colour, and much undulated
or curled; O. altissimum, with a
very long flower-stem, somewhat
branched, and with yellow flowers
spotted with brown; 0. liridum,
with a panicle of greenish-brown
flowers ; and OQ. papilio, the flowers
of which are borne singly, on long,
simple and naked stalks. Besides

allied to O. altissimum and O. liuri-
dum ; and there are also some dwarf
species, such as O. triquetrum and
O. raniferum, the latter having
drooping racemes of very small flow-
ers. The colours are generally yellow
and brown, but O. pulchéllum,avery
beautiful species, has white flowers
tinged with pink, and O. triquetrwin
has white flowers blotched with pur-
ple. O. raniferum should be grown
on a piece of wood hung from the
rafters ; and O. papilio, and some of
the other species, may be treated in
the same manner.

OnoBRY'‘cHIs. — Legumindse. —
Saintfoin. Hardy perennial plants,
some of the species of which are pretty
and suitable for rock-work.

Ono'n1s. — Legumindse. — The
Rest He-row.— Little herbaceousand
shrubby plants, some of which are
natives of Britain, and which have
generally yellow or pink flowers.
Most of the kinds should be grown
in peat, or in very sandy loam ; and
they are all suitable for rock-work.
Some of the kinds from the south of
Europe are rather tender ; but they
will all live in the open air, if they
have a slight protection during hard
frosts.

OpERA Griris.—See Mantr’sta.

O'’pHRYS. — Orchidaceee.—Dwarf
plants belonging to the terrestrial
Orchidez, with very curious flowers,
which always look as if an insect
were nestling inthem. One ofthese,
O. apifera, looks as though a bee

were buried in the flower; another, .

O. aranifera, has the lip in the form
of a spider ; and in the third, O. mus-
cifera, the whole flower resembles a
fly.—For the culture of these plants,
see O’RCHIS.

Opu’nTIA. — Cactucee. — The
Prickly Pear.—This is the hardiest
of all the genera of Cacti, as there
are some species which will live

these, there are many species nearly | in the open ground in England, with

——

a —

a

OPUNTIA.

216

OPUNTIA.

only a slight protection from frost
during winter ; and they grow freely
in the south of Europe. The har-
diest kind is Opintia vulgaris, of
which there are forests on Mount
Etna, growing in chinks and crevices
in the rocks, where there appears
scarcely soil enough to contain their
roots. They are equally abundant

| inthe rocky districts of Spain, where
_ they grow so vigorously and so appa-

rently in a state of nature, that a
doubt has arisen whether they are
not natives of Spain transported at
a very early period to South America,

| instead of being, as is generally sup-

posed, natives of Peru, introduced
by the first Spaniards who visited
that country, into Spain. The fruit,
which we call the Prickly Pear, but
which is called Tuna in Spain, is so
great a favourite in that country,
that Karwinski tells us, in Septem-
ber hundreds of vendors sit in the
streets of the Spanish towns, busily
employed in stripping the fruit off
the branches which have been gath-
ered loaded with it; their hands and
arms being fearfully swollen with the
spines, which they have not leisure
to avoid, so great is the impatience
of the purchasers to obtain the fruit.
He adds that many Spaniards will
eat above a hundred Prickly Pears
in one day ; and that some indulge
to such an excess, that they bring on
cholera, which is often attended by
death, especially if the sufferer at-
tempts to mitigate his disease by
drinking brandy. The cochineal
insect is bred on Opéntia cochinilli-
fera, or the Nopal tree, a native of
Mexico, and much more tender than
the common kind. A white woolly
substance appears on the leaf-like
stems of the tree, like the American
blight on Apple-trees ; and this sub-
stance conceals the female cochineal
insect, which is a kind of coccus or
scale, resembling that on the Pine-

apple and the Vine.

female that produces the dye. When
fully grown, the insects are brushed
off the plant with the tail of a squir-

The male |
insect is winged, and it is only the |

|
|

rel or deer ; and they are killed by |

drying them in ovens, which makes

them curl up, and in this state they |

are ready for sale. It is onaccount
of the value attached to the cochineal
as an article of commerce, that a
branch of the Nopal tree is intro-
duced into the arms of the republic
of Mexico.

All the kinds of Opaintia require |

abundance of dry air and intense
solar light, and on this account they
do best in the open air on a sunny
bank sheltered by a wall facing the
south.
other plants be grown in it requiring

a moist temperature, the Opuntias |

never produce either flowers or fruit;
and, indeed, often die without any
apparent cause. It is hardly possi-
ble for any situation to be too hot
and dry for these plants, as, like all
the plants destined to live in burning
sands, they are furnished with very
few stomata or breathing pores,
whilst they have abundant organs
of absorption to draw as much mois-
ture as possible from the soil ; and

thus they are enabled to sustain |

heat that would dry up and wither
any plants not succulent. On the
other hand thesevery qualities render
them easily injured by a superabun-
dance of moisture, as they have no
means of getting rid of it; and it
soon occasions them to damp off, or,
in other words to rot. The best
soil to grow Opuntias in, is a mixture
of very sandy loam with broken bricks
and rubbish from old walls ; they
require but little water at any season
except when going into flower, and
then less than any of the other kinds
of Cacti. They are propagated by
cuttings, which must be taken off at

In a stove, especialiy if

|
|
|
|
|
|
|

|

ORCHIDACE, TERRESTRIAL. 217 ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

a joint and laid on a shelf for two or | should be filled one quarter of their
three days to dry before planting, in | depth with broken potsherds or cin-
order that the superfluous moisture | ders, and the soil should consist of
may escape. When planted they | turfy peat broken into pieces, and
should not be watered; and when} sand mixed with about a third of
young plants are raised from seed; | vegetable mould. The half-hardy
they also should not be watered when | and hardy kinds may be grown
they are transplanted.—SeeCa’crus. | either in pots or in the open ground.
ORANGERY.—A house intended ,—See O’rcuis.
only for Orange trees may be opaque | OrcHipEous Eprpuytes. — The
at the back, and even the roof, with | plants thus designated should, pro-
lights only in front, provided the | perly speaking, only be those which
plants be set out during summer. | in their native countries are found
In fact, so that the plants are pre- | hanging from the branches of trees,
served from the frost, they will do | with their roots exposed to the air,
withscarcely any lightduring winter; | as these only can be called air-plants.
and in many parts of the Continent | lt is, however, very difficult to draw
they are kept in a cellar. ~ a line of demarcation, as regards
ORANGE THORN. — Citriébatus.— | culture, between these plants and
Spinous shrubs, belonging to Pitto- | the terrestrial Orchidez of the tro-
sporacee, natives of Port Jackson | pics, as several of the Epiphytes may
and other parts of Australia, which, | be grown to great perfection in pots;
from bearing small orange-coloured | and others, though in a state of cul-
fruit, are called Orange Thorn by | tivation, they can only be grown well
the colonists. on branches of trees, are found grow-
ORANGE TREE.—See Cri'tRUs. ing naturally onexposedrocks. All
ORCHIDA‘CEH, TERRESTRIAL.— | the true Epiphytes, which in their
The terrestrial Orchidacee are, as | wild state are found with their roots
their names import, those plants | hanging down in the air, grow in
belonging to this extensive order | dense forests, where shade, moisture,
which grow in the ground, in contra- | and excessive heat, seem essential
distinction to the Epiphytes, or those | to their existence ; and these plants
which grow with their roots exposed | in a state of culture should generally
to the air. The terrestrial Orchi- | begrownin baskets, either of earthen-
deze are of four kinds, viz. those | ware or china, or in husks of Cocoa-
from the tropics, which require a | nuts half filled with moss, or tied
stove in England ; those from the | on pieces of wood, hung up from the
Cape of Good Hope, which require | rafters of a damp stove, and in the
a greenhouse ; those from the South | shade. This rule, however, though
of Europe, which only need a slight | apparently so reasonable, is not with-
protection during winter ; and the | out its exceptions in practice ; pro-
hardy kinds, most of which are | bably because, as it is impossible to
natives of Great Britain. The stove | imitate the natural climate of the
species require nearly the same}plants exactly, their wants are
treatment as the Epiphytes (see | changed by the different situation in
OrcuipEous EprpuyteEs); and the| which they are placed. Thus, the
greenhouse species only differ from | West Indian Dendrobiums and Epi-
other greenhouse plants in requiring | dendrums, both of which in their
particular care to be paid to their | natural state are generally found on
drainage. For this purpose the pots | the branches of trees, in a state of

Nee ee eee SSS See ee

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

culture thrive best potted in turfy
peat or chopped moss, left suffici-
ently loose to allow the points of the
roots to protrude occasionally, and
to hang down over the side of the
pot. The flowers of the Dendro-
biums are generally produced in long
pendant racemes; but those of the
Epidendrums are erect, like those of
the Oncidiums. Most of the East
Indian species should always be
grown on wood, particularly Renna-
thera coccinea, and all kinds of
Vanda and Sarcdénthus; and the
East Indian Dendrobiums, and the
different species of E\ria. The
species of the genera Aérides and
Celégyne, however, though both are
always found on trees in their native
country, may, in England, be grown
in pots, in turfy loam or chopped
moss, or in baskets of moss. The
Stanhopeas and Catasetums should
be grown in baskets of moss, or in
pots hung from the rafters of the

house, as their flowers proceed from |

the roots,and hang downward ; but
the Cattleyas, which have erect
flower-stems, are always grown in
pots. Where it is not convenient
to have pots hanging’ from the raf-
ters, the Stanhopeas must have a
pile of pieces of turfy peat raised at
least six inches above the rim of the
pot, and the pseudo-bulbs must be
placed on the top; as, unless this
is done, the flower-stem, when pro-
truded from the root, will bury
itself in the earth contained in the
pot, and the flowers will be unable
to expand, though they will easily
make their way through the loose
pieces of turf.

wood are generally passed at regular
distances through the pile of turf,
to keep the pieces in their place.
The Catasetums grow in open parts
of the woods of the tropical regions
of South America, and one species

218

Where this mode of |
potting is adopted, slender pieces of |

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

is the celebrated Wourali Vine.
|They all require great heat and
| moisture, and when grown on wood
it should be on that of soft-barked
trees.

Various expedients have been de-
vised to produce the shade supposed
necessary for some of the Orchideous
plants. The Orchideous-house has
been in some cases glazed with dark-
green or brownish glass, doublesashes
have been used, and creeping plants
trained over the roof. None of these
plans, however, have proved success-
fui ; as, though the plantsthustreated
have grown rapidly, it has been to
produce leaves rather than flowers.
Whether it be that the plants in an
artificial staterequire more lightthan
in theirnative woods, or whether the
British sun is so much feebler than
| that they have been acustomed to, as
to render shading unnecessary, it is
certain that the Orckideous Epiphytes
in England require plenty of light,
and that they never flower well if
kept in comparative darkness.

Another point that has puzzled
| cultivators is to find out what kind
_of wood is most suitable for those
kinds that are to be grown on
‘hanging branches. Mr. Henchman,

_who collected Orchideze on the |

| Spanish Main, asserts that he never
'found an Orchideous plant on a
‘dead tree, whether standing or
fallen, though he found many spe-
cies of Oncidium, Catasétum, Xc.,
growing on the ground, as though
they had been accidentally dislodged
from the trees on which they had
grown. He even observed that the
colour of the Oncidiwm papilio was
much darker on the ground than it
| was in its natural situation, on the
branches of a lofty tree. From his
finding no Orchideze on dead trees,
he was led to suppose that the
plants draw some kind of nourish-
ment from the trees on which they

CRCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

live; and he also remarked that
roughand soft-barked trees were their
favourite abodes. He found Onei-
diwm papilio, and a kind of Schom-

buirghia, called by the Indians the

Spread Eagle, on the upper branches
of trees which were exposed to the
air, and at least from twenty to
thirty feet from the ground, and
O. liridum, and the Catasetums,
on branches fully exposed to the
sun; while the Gongoras, Rodri-
guezias, and Corysanthes were on
the soft and young wood, not more

than seven or eight feet fromthe |

ground, in the most dense and
thickest paris of the forest. These
hints, and the observations of other
collectors, have been of great service
to cultivators ; and, in consequence,
they generally g row their Epiphytes
on rough- barked trees (that of the
Robinia Psetid-Acacia, Cobbett’s
Locust, for example), half covering
the log with moss to retain the
moisture, and to imitate the soft
woolly bark of some of the trees of
the tropics. These logs are hung
from nails in the rafters, or from
rods suspended across the roof ; and
the pseudo-bulbs, or rhizomas, of
the plants are bound on them with
fine wire, and covered with sphag-
num or some other kind of moss.
Messrs. Loddiges use living plants
of Lycopodium stoloniferum, which
have the advantage of looking
better, as well as of retaining more
moisture than any kind of dead
moss.

219

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

which he fills up the pot with
pieces of turfy peat. When the
Orchideous plants are grown in
wire baskets, the baskets should be
made of copper wire, or, if of iron,
they should be painted with anti-
corrosive paint. They should be
formed shallow, and wide at the
top, with the bars sufficiently apart

to allow the flower-stems of the

Stanhopeas, and other plants sen-
ding out their flower-stems from
their roots, to push their way
through, and to hang down between
the bars. For this reason, baskets
which are narrow at the base, are
not suitable for any Orchideous
plants but those that send up their
flower-stems from their pseudo-
bulbs. The baskets for Stanhopeas
and other root-flowering planis,
should be from three to six inches
deep, and from six to ten inches
wide; and they should be filled
with moss, or with strips of turf
two or three inches wide, and placed
on end round the inside of the
basket, so as to stand nearly up-
right, with a large flat piece in the
eentre. The plant should be placed
in the middle, and the basket filled
up with broken pieces of turf, mixed
with crocks or cinders, if the plant
be very delicate, and easily affected
with too much moisture. These
baskets are very convenient for
Orchideous plants, as they may
either be suspended from the roof,

or placed on an inverted pot ; or,

Mr. Beaton makes a ball of | if the plant requires bottom-heat,

moss, which he suspends in the ‘the basket may be placed on the

hollow formed by the branches of a
three-forked stick, which he hangs
up from the rafters till the plants
are established ; and then he places
the stick in a pot, taking care that
the length of the stick below the
fork is sufficient to hold up the ball
of moss with the plant attached,

_ surface of a pot plunged in the hot-

bed. The basket also looks better
and more elegant than a flower-pot
when the plant is in flower, and is

| brought into a drawing-room. When

Orchideous plants arrive from
abroad, Mr. Beaton first throws
them into water ; and after they have

just above the rim of the pot—after | been thoroughly washed, he puts

ee

ORCBIS.

220

ORIGANUM.

them into a heap, covered with a
damp mat, where they remain for
several days ; after which he plants
them in baskets, or ties them on
moss supported by a forked stick,
as above described. :
OrcuipEous Hovusre.—A _hot-
house intended for growing tropical
Orchideous Epiphytes, and _ fur-
nished with contrivances for keeping
the interior moist. The roof is
generally glazed with ground or
green glass, to diminish the light,
as the Orchideous Epiphytes, in
their native forests, always grow in
the shade.
O’rcuis.—Orchidacee.—Most of
the species of the genus O’rchis are

| natives of Europe, and a _ great

number of them are found wild in
Britain. With respect to culture,
they may be divided into two
classes: those which grow natu-
rally in peat or heath-mould, such
as O. maculata, O. modrio, O.
mascula, &c. ; and those which grow
in dry chalky soils, such as O. stmia,
O. militéris, O. fisca, O. tephros-
anthos, and O. ustulata. In general,
little can be done in the way of pro-
pagating Orchises, excepting by
seed ; but they may be taken up in
their native localities when in
flower, with a ball of earth about
three inches square to each, and
being planted in suitable soil in an
open situation in the garden, they
will live and flower for several
years. Seeds, if collected when
ripe, and sown immediately, will
come up freely ; and if the soil and
situation be suitable, they will
flower freely the second or the
third year. The same observations
will apply to O\phrys, Herminium,
A’ceras, Goodyéra, Platanthera,
Gymnadénia, and several other
genera formerly included in the
genus O’rchis.

may be forced as easily as the
common Hyacinth. The kinds of
Orchis which bear flowers resem-
bling insects, are now included in
the genus O'pHRys.

OrDER.—The necessity of once
is strongly evinced in a_ flower-
garden, as the plants in it lose
half their beauty unless they are
placed according to some regular
plan or order of arrangement :
thus they may be either in masses
of one colour, or of one kind; or
they may be arranged according to
size, or according to some botanical
system, at pleasure. But whatever
mode of arrangement may beadopted,
it will be found that not only the
interest excited by the garden, but
its beauty will be greatly increased
by some regular order being followed
throughout.

In a botanical point of view, the
word Order signifies a number of
genera, which coincide in several
important particulars. As, for ex-
ample, according to the Natural
System, the order Cruciferx includes
all the plants that have the petals
of heir flowers disposed so as to
resembie a Greek cross and, accor-
ding to the Linnean system, the
order Trigynia includes all the
plants the flowers of which have
three styles, Xe.

Ori’GanuM.— Labiate.—Marjo-
ram.— O. vulgare, the common
Marjoram, is plentiful on chalky
soils in various parts of England ;
and it may be planted in patches in
gardens or shrubberies where bees
are kept, for the fragrance of the
flowers, and the delight which the
bees appear to have in them. The
sweet Marjoram, O. Majorana, a
native of Portugal, is cultivated in
England as a pot-herb; and for
the Hop Marjoram, or Dittany of

Most of the British | Crete, O. Dictémnus, see Drvrany
Orchises grow well in pots, and they |

oF CRETE.

OROBUS,

221

OXALIS,

ORNITHO’GALUM. — A sphodélee.
—The Star of Bethlehem. —Bulbous
plants with white star-like flowers,
some of which are frequently kept
in the greenhouse, but all of which
may be grown in the open ground if
the bulbs are planted in a tolerably
dry soil, four or six inches deep.
Some of the handsomest kinds are
O. pyramidale, a native of Spain,
the unopened flower-stalks of which
are sold in the market at Bath and
other places in the Westof England |
for the table, under the name of
Prussian Asparagus ; 0. latifoliwm,
a native of Egypt; and OQ. cauda-
tum, from the Cape of Good Hope. |
The latter two are generally con-
sidered greenhouse plants, but they
only require protection from severe |
frosts.

OroBA’NCHE. — Orobanchéew. —
Broom-rape. — Parasitic British
plants growing on the roots of other
plants, which they destroy. They
have erect stems, somewhat scaly
and bulbous at the base, and ter-
minating in a spike of rather large
purplish or brownish flowers. They
are almost incapable of culture, as
their seeds will lie dormant in the
soil for years, till they meet with a
plant to the roots of which they can
attach themselves ; but if it should
be wished to grow them, a few
seeds of O. major may be sown on
the roots of any kind of broom or
furze, and of O. caryophyllacee on
the roots of any kind of bramble or
of Galium Molliugo, and they will
probably germinate. O. rubra,
which is very fragrant, may in the
same manner be sown on the roots
of wild thyme; and 0. eldtior on
those of the Centauréa Scabiosa, or
greater Knap-weed.

O’roBus. — Legumindse. —The
Bitter Vetch. —Pea-flowered, peren-
nial plants, some of which are very
ornamental ; natives of Europe and

North America, which should be
grown in peat and loam, and are
increased by dividing the root.
Oryza. — Graminee. — Rice. —
This plant is occasionally grown as
an object of curiosity in England,
though the climate is not hot enough
to ripen the grain. It is a marsh
plant, and requires to have its roots

| constantly supplied with water.

OsAGE ORANGE.—See Mactu‘ra.

OsBE’cKIA. — Melastomacee. —
Handsome stove plants, remarkable
for their showy flowers, and strongly
ribbed leaves. They should be
grown in peat, mixed with one-
third of sandy loam, and kept moist.
They are propagated by cuttings.

Osmv’NDA.—Filices.—The Flow-
ering Fern.—This is by far the
handsomest of the Fern family. A
native of Britain, which produces a
fine effect in a shrubbery, or among
trees ; and which should be grown
in peat, or other light soil, and kept
moist.

Osy'‘RIs.—Osyridew.— The Poet’s
Cassia.—A pretty little shrub, with
white flowers, a native of the South
of Europe ; which should be grown
in loam and peat, and which is
propagated by cuttings,

OrTHo‘NNA. — Compésite.— Rag-
wort. —Coarse-growing greenhouse
or frame annuals, perennials, and
low shrubs, all with yellow flowers,
and all natives of the Cape of Good
Hope; which are generally grown
in loam and peat, and which only
require the usual culture of their
respective kinds.

Ouvirna’NDRA.— J uncagincee.—
A most remarkable aquatic plant,
the leaves of which are like open
net-work, consisting only of the
veins, without any of the fleshy
part. A native of Madagascar.

O’xatis. — Oxalidee. — Wood
Sorrel. —Mostly perennial and tube-
rous-rooted plants, from the Cape

PHONIA.

of Good Hope; but some few of
which are natives of Britain, and
others of Mexico and other parts of
South America. They have showy
flowers, and are easily cultivated in
sandy peat kept moist. All the
Cape species require protection
during winter, and are generally
grown in pots.

ACHYPHY’TUM. — Crassula-
cece. A very curious and orna-
mental plant, with pale bluish

| succulent leaves, and dark red fio-
| wers, with bright yellow stamens.

There is a most striking contrast

_ between those bright-looking flowers

and the glaucous hue of the large

calyx and bracts, which surround

the heat radiated from the

_ them ; they cover the stems, and look

like spikes of flowers. The plantis
a native of Mexico, and requires a
greenhouse in this country.
Pxo'ntia. — Ranunculacee. —
The herbaceous species are well-
known showy flowers, which thrive
in deep sandy soil, and are propa-
gated by division ; and the suffru-
tescent or shrubby kinds, of which
there are several varieties, thrive in
similar soil, and are propagated by

_ laying down the shoots, cutting

behind each bud, and covering them
throughout their whole length by an
inch or two of sand or sandy soil.
Each bud thus treated will throw up
a shoot and emit roots, and after a
year may be cut off so as to form a
distinct plant. The tree Pony, as
it is called, is quite hardy in the
climate of London; but as the
flowers and leaves come out early,
they are liable to be injured by
spring frosts, and it is therefore
desirable to protect them by a hori-

_ zontal covering a foot or two above

the plant, which, by reflecting back
soil

keeps up such a temperature as pre- |

222

PAPAVER.

vents the plant from freezing. There
are many very handsome varieties
of the tree Peony, both double and
single, but that which is most
common is the P. Motitan papave-
racea, a single variety in which the
petals are large and white, with a
dark purple mark at the base. A
few years ago this variety sold at
Six guineas a plant, but it may now
be obtaimed from 3s. 6d. to 5s.
Both the herbaceous and shrubby
Ponies seed freely; and as by
fecundating the flowers of one species
with those of the others, new varie-
ties may be easily procured, raising
seedling Ponies forms a source of
interest for amateurs. For some
account of the newly introduced
kinds of the Pony see Mov’ran.
Paxa‘via.—Malvacee.—An ele-
gant annual plant, generally raised
on a hotbed, and planted out in
May; but which may be sown in
the open border in April.
Patiu‘rus. — Rhamnacee, —
Christ's Thorn.—A curiously bent
thorny shrub, with very oddly-
shaped flat fruit, which has given
rise to the French name for the
plant of poriechapeau. It is a
native of Asia, and will grow in any
common garden soil.
Pancora‘tiuM.— Amaryllidacec.
—The Sea Daffodil.—Splendid lily-
like bulbous-rooted plants, some of
which require a stove, and others
the greenhouse. They should be
grown in light loam and vegetable
mould ; and should be allowed a
season of rest, by being kept without
water when not in a growing state.
Pansy.—See HEART’S-EASE.
Papa vER.—Papaveracee.—The
Poppy.—Showy annual and peren-
nial plants, which will grow in any
common garden-soil; and which,
being quite hardy, only require the
common treatment of their respective
kinds.

|

PARASITES.

Papyrus. —Cyperacee.—An in-

teresting marsh plant, which re-
quires a stovein England, and which
is worth growing, from its pith
having been the only paper used by
the ancients. It should be planted
in loam ‘at the bottom of a tub or
cistern ; or it may be grown in an
aquarium.

PaRasiTeEs are plants which root
into other plants and differ from
epiphytes in that circumstance, the
latter only growing on the outside
of the branches of trees, and deriving
nourishment partly from the decay
of the outer bark, and partly from
the moisture which its porous corky
nature enables it to retain. The
only ligneous parasite whichis grown
in this country is the Mistletoe,
which is propagated by bruising the
berries, and causing them to adhere
to the bark (see V1'scum), and the
chief epiphytes are some of the stove
Orchidacee. The British herba-
ceous parasites are Ciiscuta Epi-
thymum and C. europea upon
Clover and Hops, and Orobdnche
major and Lathre‘a Squamaria on
the roots of forest-trees. The hardy
epiphytes of Britain are the Lichens
and Mosses, which grow on the bark
of old trees, or stunted young trees
in moist shady situations, and some
species of Ferns, such as Polypo-
dium vulgare, which is often found
growing on the bark of old pollards
in the central districts of England,
and in great abundance on trees in
the moist climates of Devonshire,
Lancashire, Cumberland, &c. Itis
very abundant on old Oaks in the
grounds of some of the villas, on
the banks of the lake of Ambleside.
Almost tke only herbaceous para-
site which can be conveniently
cultivated in gardens is the Caéscuta
europea, the seeds of which, when
gathered on Heaths or in Hop-
grounds, may be sown at the roots

TS

PARTERRE.

of almost any herbaceous plant in
gardens, when they will spring up,
twine round it, and perhaps ulti-
mately strangle it. Céscuta verru-
cosa@ is sometimes grown in green-
houses on Geraniums, and is noted
for the fragrance of its blossoms.—
(See Cu’scuta.) Orobdnche major
is very common in clover fields in
Norfolk, and greatly injures the
crops of that valuable forage plant.
lt also grows on the roots of Broom
and Furze.—See OroBa’/NCHE.

ParasoL AcCACIA.—Robinia um-
bracultfera.

PARTERRE.— The French term
for what in England is called a
flower-garden, but which in France
in former times, when the word was
originated, was most frequently
a figure formed on the surface of the
ground by turf, box, and gravel or
sand, with occasional flowers or low
shrubs. In these parterres, flowers
and shrubs were altogether secon-
dary objects, the main features
being the compartments of turf and
the curious scroll-work of box.
The French divided their parterres
into three kinds; parterres of em-
broidery, which consisted chiefly
of scroll-work or arabesque figures
of box kept low by clipping; par-
terres de compartiments, which
consisted chiefly of beds of turf of
different forms, varied by small
shrubs clipped into regular shapes
and parterres anglais, which con-
sisted of turf in large masses, with
beds of flowers surrounded by box.
Parterres of embroidery are now
rarely to be met with, eitherin France
or England ; they have been totally
destroyed at Versailles and Fon-
tainebleau ; andin England, though
we have old French gardens at
Levens near the Lakes of West-
moreland, at Wroxton near Banbury,
and other places, yet almost the
only parterres of embroidery are

PARTERRE.

224

PARTERRE.

those of long standing at Wentworth
Castle, Yorkshire, and Holland
House, Kensington, and the more
recently formed ones at Wrest,
Bedfordshire, and ‘Trentham Hall,
Staffordshire. Parterres of com-
partments among the French gene-
rally consisted of one square, round,
or parallelogram plot of turf, in the
centre, surrounded by a border of
narrow beds planted with flowers
and low shrubs, and these are at
present common both in France
and England. Parterres anglais
may be considered as included in
the parterres of compartments ; be-
cause the French do not now cut up
the ground into so many beds as
formerly, and they plant a great
many more flowers than they did in
the time of Le Notre. In all the
French parterres of former times,
and also in most of those imitated
in England, the groundwork, or, in
other words, the little walks on
which the arabesques of box ap-
peared tv be planted, were of diffe-
rent-coloured sands, gravel, shells,
powdered stones, or brick, so as to
exhibit different colours in the same
parterre ; but that practice is now
left off both on the Continent and in
Britain. In a word, parterres are
now assemblages of flowers in beds
or groups, on a ground of either
lawn or gravel; in the former case
the beds are dug out of the lawn,
and in the latter they are separated
from the gravel by edgings of box
or stone, or of some plant, or
durable material. The shape of the
beds in either case depends on the
style of architecture of the house to
which the parterre belongs, or on
the taste and fancy of the owner.
Whatever shapes are adopted, they
are generally combined into a sym-
metrical figure; for when this is
not the case, the collection of beds

ceases to be a parterre, or a flower- |

garden, and can only be designated
as a group or collection of groups on
alawn. Hence it is, that all par-
terres and regular flower-gardens
ought to be separated from the sce-
nery by which they are surrounded,

a

&

©rnrmreeetkewr &@ @& @

FIG. 37.—FLOWER GARDEN.

by a line of demarcation, such as a
low architectural wall, with a bal-
ustrade and piers and vases ; a low
evergreen hedge, a canal, a ridge of
rock-work, a sunk fence with the
sides of turf or of stone, a raised
fence with the ridges and top of

|
|
|

/

LE Le tt tht ttt st ssn iittessn te amet neste pen

PARTERRE.

2

25 PARTERRE.

turf, or a raised terrace-walk of | bed so as that each bed shall be a

grass or gravel.

Fig. 37 will give an idea of a
regular flower-garden ; which may
be made architectural by laying the
walks with flag-stones, and placing
fountains and statues in the circles :
and fig 38 is a plan of the flower-
garden at Dropmore, certainly one
of the most beautiful in England.

FIG. 38.—DROPMORE GARDEN.

Other designs may easily be made
on paper, and transferred to the
ground, by dividing the space to be
laid out into squares with chalked
strings, and making corresponding
squares over the plan.

In planting parterres there are

| two different systems; one is to

plant only one kind of flower in a

mass of one colour, and the other is
to plant flowers of different colours
in the same bed. It

is almost |

needless to state that the former |

system is by far the best for general
and striking effect; but as a par-
terre is frequently a kind of botanic
garden, and as in this case it is

desirable to keep all the species of a |

genus together, flowers of all colours
| must occasionally occur in the same
bed. In general, botanical par-
terres should not be mixed with
parterres for effect, because the one
kind never fails greatly to injure
the other.

In planting parterres for general
effect, the colours should be arranged
so that those which are adjoining
each other should be contrasts ; and
those which occupy corresponding
parts of the same figure should be
the same. For example, suppose a
bed on one side of the centre to be
planted with yellow flowers, the
corresponding bed on the other side
(the figure being symmetrical) should
also be planted with the same kind
of yellow flowers, for the sake of
preserving the symmetry. Some-
times the corresponding bed of
colours may be planted with a dif-
ferent species, having flowers of the
same colour which appear at the
same time, but in general this cannot
be done successfully, partly on
account of the different shades of
colours, but chiefly because it is
scarcely possible to get two plants
of different species, even though
they are of the same colour and
flower at the same time, that will
prove so exactly alike as to have
the same aspect. The colours which
contrast with one another are gene-
rally well known, particularly to
ladies; such as blue and yellow,
orange and purple, red and green,
&e.; and in practice any two

A

a a rg ge ee ee Se Es er Sey

Q

Sr a ee EIRENE a a
a en TC

PARTERRE.

226

PASSIFLORA.

colours which do not contrast well
naturally, may be brought together
or near each other by the interven-
tion of white, or of a very dark
colour, approaching to black. There
are many low compact growing
plants, with white flowers, very
suitable for planting out in flower-
beds, such as A'rabis albida, or any
of the white Verbenas; and Lotus
jacobe‘us forms the nearest approach
to black. Nemdphila discoidalis is
also very nearly black. As the
prevailing colour in garden scenery
is green in all its different shades
and mixtures, so the prevailing
colour in parterres ought to be red,
and all its various shades and
mixtures. Next to red, yellow,
orange, and all their various shades
and mixtures ought to prevail, as
contrasting with the blue of the
sky, and with that of water, should
there be any near the flower-garden.
In choosing the colour for any par-
ticular flower-garden, it is necessary
to consider what colours are to be
placed adjoining it ; and in choosing
the colour for plants to be placed in
vases or pots, it is mecessary to
consider the back-ground against
which they are to be seen. For
example, an elevated vase with the
sky for a background, should never
be planted with either blue or
purple flowers; but orange or red
flowers in such a vase will have an
admirable effect. In botanic par-
terres, only one plant of a species or
variety is planted; and that ought
to be kept perfectly distinct from
every other by a space, an inch or
two in width, being left all round
it ; but in parterres for effect, the
whole surface of the bed ought to be
covered with the same kind of
flower, and no part of the soil should
be seen. Hence, for this kind of
parterre, low-growing plants and
trailers, or creepers, such as Nie-

rembergias and Verbenas, are most
desirable ; and free-flowering tail
plants, such as Petunias and Dahlias,
ought to be pegged down. One of
the most useful plants for producing
white in parterres of effect is the
common Petunia, and for red the
different kinds of scarlet Pelargo-
nium, or Verbena Melindres,

The laying out and planting of
parterres should always be attended
to by the ladies of the place, because
it requires a degree of taste and
artistical feeling which is very
seldom to be found among some
gardeners to a sufficient extent;
and which, indeed, can hardly be
expected in many of them.

PasquE FLowEer. — See ANE-
MO'NE.

PassERINA.—Thymele\ce.—Spar-
row-wort.—Most of the species are
Cape shrubs, which require a green-
house in England, and should he
grown in sandy peat ; but one spe-
cies, P. hirstita, is a native of the
South of Europe, with small yellow

flowers. They are all more curious
than beautiful.
PassIFLO‘RA. — Passifldree. —

The Passion Flower.—The common
Passion Flower, Passiflora cerulea,
is a very ornamental climber, which
will live in the open air in the
climate of London, flowering abun-
dantly, and ripening fruit every
year. It requires a good and some-
what loamy soil; and where the
soil is light and sandy, a pit two
feet deep and two feet square should
be dug out and filled with a mixture
of loam and peat. This pit may
appear large for a plant with such a
slender root and stem as the Passion
Flower, but it will not thrive unless
plenty of room be allowed for its
roots ; and, on this account only
the dwarf species can be grown in
a pot. There are several kinds of
Passion Flower which require a

i a ner

PAULOWNIA. 227

PEAT BOG.

greenhouse, and some very splendid
ones that cannot be grown without
a stove. Of the latter, the most
beautiful is P. Loudéni, the flowers
of which are of a most brilliant
crimson. Nearly all the kinds
ripen seed freely; and the fruit,
which is a kind of berry, is eatable
but insipid. All the kinds hybri-
dise freely, and thus many new
kinds may be raised. Some of these
hybrids are very beautiful, par-
ticularly those raised from P. race-
mosa ; and some of those raised
between the stove kinds and P.
cerulea are nearly hardy. P. Neu-
mant is a very hardy and free-
flowering species. They are all
easily propagated by cuttings, which
should be made’of the young shoots,
and struck in sand, in heat, under
a bell-glass.

Passion FLower.—See Passt-
FLO'RA.

PaTERso'NIA. — Jridee. — A
fibrous-rooted genus of very beau-

_ tiful plants, natives of New Holland.

They should be grown in sandy loam
and peat, and increased by dividing
the roots, or by seeds. They re-
quire a little protection during
winter ; and, on this account, they
are generally grown in pots, and
kept in a frame or greenhouse.
PavLo’wn1a.—Scrophularine.—
A suffruticose tree which grows with

_ great rapidity to the height of 30 ft.

or 40 ft., and produces large racemes
of beautiful shaded lilac flowers.
The leaves are very large and hand-
some, and the whole bears consider-
able resemblance to a Catalpa. It
is a native of Japan, and it has not
yet flowered in England, though it
has in the Jardin des Plantes in
Paris. It only requires to be plan-
ted in a dry open situation, exposed
to the sun; and it is propagated by

seeds, which it has ripened abun-
-dantly in France, and which should

be raised on a hotbed. The name
of the plant being a Russian word,
it should be pronounced Pauléfnia.
It flowers well at Florence.

Pa‘via. — Hippocastandcee, or |

Aisculacee.—The American Horse-
chestnut or Buck-eye.—These plants
differ from the Common Horse-chest-
nut in their fruit, which is in a
smooth husk, while that of the
Horse-chestnut is in a rough husk.
They derive their American name of
Buck-eye from the large brown spot
on the side of the seed, the bota-
nical name of which is the hilum.
Several of the Pavias are shrubs,
and one of them, P. rubra, is
almost prostrate. They are all
very handsome, particularly the
dark-red and yellow-flowered kinds,
and P. macrostachya, which has
long feathery white flowers. They
will grow best in loamy soil; and
they are all propagated either by
seeds or layers, or by grafting or
budding them on the common Horse-
chestnut.

Pracn Myrrte.—See Hypoca-
LY’MMA.

Peat Boe consists entirely of
vegetable matter decayed by being
saturated with moisture, but which
requires to be decomposed or mixed
with some earthy matter to render
it fit for vegetation. As it is the
tannin which abounds in the liquid
part of peat bog which prevents the
decomposition of the vegetable fibre
it contains, it is only necessary to
drain it of its superabundant mois-
ture to convert it into peat earth ;
in which state it is used in garden-
ing for the growth of large American
plants, such as Rhododendrons, &c.,
in the open ground. Heath-mould
is peat mixed naturally or artifi-
cially with a large proportion of fine
white sand ; and in this state it is
used in greenhouses for growing
Heath, and other Cape and Austra-

|

a mercer

228

PENTAPTERYGIUM.

PENTSTEMON.

lian shrubs, with fine hair-like roots
in pots. When greenhouse shrubs
are directed to be grown in peat, it
is always understood to mean a mix-
ture of peat and silver sand, and
not black peat alone.

Pres.—Pieces of forked stick (see
jig. 39) used for keeping down plants
that are wanted to cover a bed in a

_regular flower-garden, and for other

FIG. 39.—HOOKED STICK FOR PEGGING
DOWN PLANTS IN FLOWER GARDENS:
ONE END OF WHICH SHOULD ALWAYS
BE MUCH LONGER THAN THE OTHER.

similar purposes. When hooked
sticks are not easily to be procured,
bent wire or tin pegs are sometimes
used, or even hair-pins. Some per-
sons recommend the pins of whale-
bone.

PELARGO'NIUM.—See GERA‘NIUM.

PELLITORY, Common. — Pyré-
thrum Parthénium.

PELLITORY OF Spain.—A/nthe-
mis Pyréthrum.—See A'NTHEMIS.

Peto'ria.—A curious variety of
the common Toad-flax.—See Li-
NA‘RIA,

PENTAPTERY’GIUM.-- Vacciniacee.
This beautiful little shrub was found
among the hills of North Eastern
India. The flowers are formed like
those of many kinds of Heath and

Vaccinium but they are of a golden
yellow, a very unusual colour in
this order, with the pedicels and
margins of the calyx red. It flow-
ered in Engiand in 1856.
PENTSTE'MON. — Scrophularine.
—The two genera Cheléne and
Pentstémon are often confused to-
gether, but they are quite distinct,
and when seen together may be
easily distinguished from each other,
as the flowers of Chelone are short
and inflated, and crowded together ;
while those of Pentstémon are long
and funnel-shaped, and far apart.
The Pentstemons are generally hardy
or half-hardy plants, suffering less
from cold than from damp during
winter; and as they all are very
apt to damp off at tlrat season, it is
a good plan to take cuttings of all
the kinds grown in the open ground
in autumn, and to strike them in a
sandy peat, keeping them in a green-
house or some dry place till spring,
when they may be planted in the
flower-border. All the Pentstemons
are beautiful North American peren-
nials, growing from one foot to two
feet in height, with white, pink,
blue, or purple flowers, produced
from March to October. Most of
them will grow in common garden
soil, and the rest in loam and peat:
and they are all readily propagated
by division of the roots, or by seeds
or cuttings. P. campanulatus grows
a foot and a half high, and produces
its light purple flowers from March
to October, and P. rdseus produces
its red flowers during the same
period ; P. pulchéllus grows a foot
and a half high, and produces light
purple flowers in June and July; P.
speciosus grows two feet high, and
produces its beautiful blue flowers
in August and September. P. Mur-
rayanus (the handsomest of the
genus) grows about two feet high,
and produces its brilliant scarlet

ape MMMRRMMMNIIS GN ScD IAN 0888 ag 8 eee ey ed ee os a ds dae

PERENNIAL PLANTS.

229

PERENNIAL PLANTS.

flowers in August, but it is rather |
tender. P. Cobe’a grows about a
foot and a half or two ) feet high, and
produces its large light purple or
pinkish flowers in August, and it is
also rather tender. P. Scoéleri,
which grows three feet or four feet
high, and produces its purple flow-
ers from May to July, is suffrutes-
cent, and succeeds either in the open
border, or forms a beautiful object
against a conservative wall. On the
whole, all the species are beautiful,
and none of them are of difficult
culture.

PrErRaA‘DO.—The name for a kind |
of Holly, a native of Madeira, J’ lect |
Perado ; which is only half. -hardy
in England. It makes, however, a
beautiful tree, which will stand with-
out protection in the open air if it
is grafted standard high on a tree of
the Common Holly.

PERENNIAL PLANTS are those per-
manent plants which are not woody,
but which generally die down to the
ground every year, and spring up
again the year following. There are
some, however, which are called
evergreen perennials, which never
die down to the ground, such as
Pinks, Carnations, “several kinds of
Saxifrage, &c. Perennials have the
great advantage over annuals and
biennials, that they do not require
renewal from seed, but are propa-
gated by division of the root or by
cuttings of the stem. Bulbous
plants | are perennials, and they are
propagated by separating the offsets,
which may be considered as a kind
of division of the root. Tuberous-
rooted plants are propagated by
separating the tubers; and when
these tubers are furnished with eyes
like the potato, they may be cut
into pieces, preserving an eye to
each ; but when they are without
eyes or buds, excepting at their
upper a ea oe as in the case of

the Dahlia and the Garden Ranun-
culus, each tuber must be separated
from the parent plant entire with
its bud. The great majority of
plants which ornament the miscel-
laneous borders of a flower-garden
are herbaceous perennials, including
under this term bulbs and tubers.

All the hardy bulbs in a flower-bor-
der, except those of the Hyacinth
and the Tulip, should be kept as
dry as possible during winter, as
they are more liable to be injured
by wet than cold; and when they
are taken up to remove their offsets,
&e., it should be in autumn when
the ‘leaves have withered, and they
should be planted again as soon as
practicable, as they are ver y apt to
be injured by damp, &c., if they
remain long out of the’ ground.

Tubers, on the contrary, such as
those of the Garden Ranunculus,
and the Dahlia, must be taken up
every year as soon as they have done
flowering, and only replanted just
before the growing season com-
mences, as, if left in the ground,

they are very apt to rot; the bulbs
of the Hyacinth and the Tulip thrive
best when treated in the same
manner. The fibrous-rooted peren-
nials should be taken up and divi-
ded when they are growing too
large ; and even when division on
this account is not necessary; most
of the kinds are benefited by taking
up and replanting in fresh situa-
tions occasionally, on the principle
of the rotation of crops. This is,

that all plants throw out excremen-
titious matter, which is poisonous
to themselves, though wholesome
for other plants ; and thus, in the
course of a few years, the ground
in which plants grow becomes unfit
for them. Nature has provided a
remedy for this by elongating the
roots of all perennial plants, whether
ligneous or herbaceous, every year ;

PERGULARIA.

230

PETRA.

and this is sufficient to prevent trees |

and shrubs in permanent plantations
from being injured ; but from the
constant digging, &c., in a garden,
perennial herbaceous plants are very
seldom permitted to extend their
roots to a sufficient distance to find
suitable soil; and they are there-
fore benefited by taking up and
replanting, or laying down decayed
leaves or fresh soil over their roots.
The season for taking up and re-
planting perennial plants should be
either in autumn, after they have
done growing, or in spring, before
they begin to grow ; and if the soil
about the roots looks black and
saturated with moisture, or, as the
gardeners express it, «sour, ” the
roots should be washed quite clean
before replanting. Where the roots
are to be divided, it may be done,
if they are large, with the spade, or
if they are small, with a knife;

and, at all events, they should be
cut ‘smooth, and trimmed (that is,
all the bruised parts removed) with
a sharp knife, before replanting.—
See PLANTING.

PERGULA'RIA. — Asclepiadee. —
P. odoratissima has, perhaps, a
sweeter fragrance than any other
plant known, ‘The flowers are
green, and of no peculiar beauty,
but they are most valuable for their
delightful fragrance, which is chiefly
perceptible at night. The Pergu-
laria is a stove-climber which should
be grown in a large pot (a 12) with
holes in the sides, which should be
plunged into the centre pit of the
stove and kept moist. The soil
should be sandy loam or chopped
turf mixed with leaf-mould; and
the plant is propagated by cuttings
struck in sand with bottom-heat,
and covered with a bell-glass. It
should be cut back every year when
it has done flowering ; ; and it will
shoot out vigorously in spring.

Peri’PLoca.—Asclepiddee.—P.
greca is a handsome hardy climber,
with velvet-like flowers of a very
singular colour, being a dark pur-
plish maroon. It will grow in any
light rich soil, and it is very suit-
able for covering arbours. It is
said to be fatal to flies, and that a
number of dead flies may be swept
up every day in bowers covered by
it. It is a native of the Canary
Isles, and it is propagated by layers

or cuttings, both of which grow |

freely.

PrrRE'sKIA. — Cactacew. — The
Barbadoes or West Indian Goose-
berry. This plant bears very little
resemblance to the other kinds of
Cacti, as it has thin leaves and a
round stem like any other ligneous
plant, P. aculeata, the commonest
kind, has white flowers; but the
flowers of P. Blvo are of a beautiful
pink. The fruit resembles a goose-
berry, andis very good to eat. The
Pereskias are quite hardy, growing
in the same temperature and re-
quiring nearly the same treatment
as the Opaintia or Common Indian
Fig (see Opu’nrr) ; and P. acule-
ata is frequently used as a stock for
grafting on it the more tender kinds
of Cacti.

PERISTE'RIA. — Orchiddcew. —
The Dove Flower.—Beautiful Peru-
vian epiphytes, which should be
grown on wood.—See ORcHIDEOUS
EPIPHYTES.

PERIWINKLE.—See Vi'NCA.

PEeRNE'TTIA. — Lricacea. — A
pretty little evergreen bush, a na-
tive of Terra del Fuego, with white
heath-like flowers. It is quite hardy,
and only requires to be grown in a
bed of peat soil.

Prrsica‘RiA.—See Poty’conum.

Petras. — Verbenacee. — P.
volubilis is a climbing plant with
long and beautiful racemes of dark-
purple flowers, and large dark-green

oy =

PETUNIA.

231

PETUNIA.

leaves. It is a native of Vera Cruz
and Martinique, where it ascends to
the summit of lofty trees, hanging
from branch to branch in graceful
festoons, and producing its flowers
in great abundance. In England,
though it has been introduced since
1733, it is rarely seen in flower for
want of proper management ; but
to make it flower freely, it only re-
quires to be pruned like a common
grape-vine—that is, to have the
leading shoots stopped at the second
joint to make them throw out side
shoots, and to have these stopped in
the same manner, in order to have
what the gardeners call spurs dis-
tributed over all the branches ; for
it is on these spurs only that the
flowers are produced. The plant is
called in the Antilles the Easter
flower, because it flowers about
Easter ; and it is used for decora-
ting the Spanish churches at that
season. In England it generally
flowers in August. It should be
grown in chopped turfy loam, mixed
with a little peat to keep it open ;
and it is propagated by cuttings
struck in heat.

Perry WuHIN.—Genista dnglica.

Petu'‘nta. — Solandcee. — Per-
haps no plants have made a greater
revolution in floriculture than the
Petunias. Only a few years ago
they were comparatively unknown,
and now there is not a garden, or
even a window, that can boast of
flowers at all, without one. P.
nyctaginiflora, the common white
Petunia, was first brought from
Brazil in 1823, and as it was
thought very nearly to resemble the
common Tobacco, it was called Pe-
tinia, from Petwn, which is the
Brazilian name for that plant. This
plant was cultivated but sparingly,
and only in greenhouses, as a pe-
rennial, till 1830, when P. violdcea
or P. phenicea, as it is sometimes

called, was introduced from Buenos
Ayres by Mr. Tweedie ; and from this
species, hybridised with P. nycta-
giniflora and P. bicolor, most of the
innumerable hybrids now in our
gardens have been produced. All
these kinds are found nearly hardy,
and they may either be treated as
half-hardy annuals, being raised on
a slight hotbed and planted out in
May, or they may be sown in the
open ground as soon as the seed is
ripe, or in March or April, or suffered
to sow themselves ; care being taken
in all cases in the open air to choose
a sheltered situation, and to lay a
few dead leaves over the bed if the
weather should be severe. When
treated as greenhouse plants, these
Petunias all become shrubby, but
they will not live more than two or
three years, and they should be cut
down as soon as they have done
flowering. When they are wanted
to grow to a large size, and to cover
a trellis, &c., like climbing plants,
they should be planted in the free
ground, in the conservatory, or in
the open air, in a light rich soil; or,
if they are kept in pots, allowed
plenty of room for their roots; as,
unless this is done, they will become
drawn up with long weak stems,
bare of both leaves and flowers to a
considerable height. When they are
wanted to form strong bushy plants
for setting in a window or keeping
in boxes under a verandah, the end
may be attained by planting them
first in very small pots and shifting
them into others, gradually becoming
larger and larger, always pinching
off the flowers, and tips of the shoots,
till the plants have attained the de-
sired form and size, when they may
be allowed to flower, and will form
splendid objects. When Petunias
are wanted to cover a bed in a regu-
lar flower-garden, they are not cut
in at all; but their long rambling

ci cmt ei A CLE ELS

PETUNIA.

232

PHAIUS.

shoots being pegged down all over kinds, and it is more tender; but
the bed, a number of side shoots | all the dark-mouthed and streaked
will be sent up, which will soon be- | kinds are raised partly from it, and

come covered with a mass of flowers.
The hybrid P. spléndens, treated
in this manner in Lady Grenville’s
flower-garden at Dropmore, is, when
the sun shines upon it, almost too
brilliant to be looked at. P. inter-
media, sometimes called Salpigléssis
linearis, is a dwarf shrub, a native
of Panama, introduced in 1832,
which requires to be kept ina green-
house in England.

A great confusion has arisen about
the name of the purple-flowered
Petunia, as, when it was first raised
at Glasgow from the seeds sent home
by Mr. Tweedie, it was supposed by
Sir W. J. Hooker to be a Salpi-
gléssis ; and it was figured and de-
scribed by him under the name of
Salpigléssis integrifolia in the Bo-
tanical Magazine, t. 3113. It was
afterwards figured and described by
the late Professor Don, in Sweet's
British Flower - Garden, second
series, t. 172, under the name of
Nierembérgia phenicea ; and, lastly,
by Dr. Lindley in the Botanical
Register, t. 1626, as Petunia viola-
cea. It is very remarkable that
there should have been so many
doubts among botanists as to the
genus of the purple Petunia, as it
appears to common observers to
differ from the white only in colour ;
and it is also remarkable that it
should have been first called phe-
nicea, which signifies crimson, when
it is decidedly of a violet-coloured
purple.
Petunia, and of all the hybrids
raised from it, are fragrant, parti-
eularly at night; while the few
hybrids raised between P. violacea
and P. bicolor, and the numerous
seedlings of the former species, have
no fragrance. P. bicolor does not

The flowers of the white |

they are generally hybrids between
it and the white Petunia ; the latter
kind producing the seed, as P. bicolor
rarely ripens seeds. No plants are
more easily trained than the Petu-
nias; and, with a little care and
attention, they may be made to cover
trellis- work or wire frames of various
different forms.

Peyrov’s1a.—Jridee.—A genus
of bulbous-rooted plants with rather
small flowers, generally in corymbs,
which require the usual treatment
of Cape bulbs.—See I’xra.

Puace'tia. — Hydrophillee. — }

Very curious plants which produce
their flowers in one-sided fascicles,
which unroll themselves slowly.
The flowers are rather pretty in
themselves, but are half hidden by
their bracts and coarse-growing
leaves. All the species are natives

of America, but some are found in |

California, some in Peru, and some

even as far south as the Straits of |

Magellan. Some of the species are
perennials, and others biennial or
annual. The Californian species are
annuals with blue flowers, but the
South American kinds are biennials,
or perennials with pink flowers.
They all grow freely in any common
garden soil.

PuaprRaANa’ssa. — Amaryllida-
cece.—A very curious bulb found by
Mr. Hartweg in Peru, and which con-
sequently requires a greenhouse in
this country. The bulbs should he
potted in rich, light, sandy loam,

and kept very moist while they are |

in a growing state, but quite dry
during their season of rest. The
name of Phedrandssa signifies a
gay and beautiful queen.
Pua‘tus.—Orchiddcee.—P. dl-
bus, which is an exceedingly beautiful

hybridise so freely as the other | East Indian epiphyte, is remarkable

PHARBITIS, 233 PHILIBERTIA.

for the dry and withered appearance | the stigma, and in the number of
which it presents when it enters | cells in the capsule.

into its dormant state. At this} Paaszo‘tus.—Legumindse.—The
period it sheds its leaves, and its | Scarlet-runner, P. multijlorus, was
stems become covered with a dry | cultivated at its first introduction as
brownish skin, which makes them | a garden flower ; and itis still often

look exactly as if they were dead. | grown for ornament in small street- |

It should then be removed to a cool | gardens, by sowing the seeds in the
situation, where the heat is not | ground, and training the plants up
greater than 40° or 45° of Fahren- | pieces of pack-thread, fastened to a
heit, and kept with only enough | hook or nail in the wall, at one end,
water to prevent it from dying. In| and to a peg stuck in the ground at
the course of a few weeks, a young | the other. There is a variety with
shoot will begin to push out from | red and white flowers which is very
the crown of the root ; and as soon | ornamental.
as that is perceived, the plantshould| PuHiLapr’LpHus.—Philadélphee.
be re-potted in sandy peat (the pot |—The Syringa, or Mock Orange.
being first nearly half filled with pot- | North American hardy shrubs,
sherds), and removed to the orchi- | common in shrubberies, the flowers
deous house, where it should be! of which smell like those of the
exposed to a strong heat and syringed | Orange, and the leaves taste like
twice a day with a copious supply of | Cucumbers. It is rather remark-
water to the roots till the appear- | able that one of the English names
ance of the flowers, when it should | of these plants is Syringa; which
be removed to a cooler atmosphere, | is the botanic name of the Lilac, to
say that of a drawing-room, and be | which they have not the slightest
no longer syringed. affinity. There are many species ;
PHALENO’esIs, — Orchidacee. — | some of which have very large and
The White Butterfly Plant.—This | handsome flowers, and some bear
beautiful plant, which certainly re- | flowers without any fragrance.
sembles a white butterfly, as much | They are all quite hardy, and
as QO. papilio does a tortoiseshell | will grow in any soil or situation ;
one, should be grown on a piece of | and they may all be propagated by
wood with the bark on, hung from | seeds, layers, cuttings, or division
the roof of the hothouse, the roots | of the root.
being wrapped in moss and tied on| PuiLésta.—Smilacee.—A beau-
the branch. It fiowers profusely, | tiful little shrub, with bright crim-
but it is very difficult to propagate. | son flowers and box-like leaves ;
The White Butterfly Plant, P. amd- | which is called Pepino in its native
bilis, is remarkable for the great|country. It is found along the
length of time it continues in flower ; | Straits of Magelhaen, and the west
P. grandiflora closely resembles it, | coast of Antarctic America. It is
but the flowers of P. rédsea are | supposed to be quite hardy.
pinkish. PHILIBE’RTIA. — A sclepiadadcee.
PHARBI'Tis. — Convolvuldcee,— | —A very curious twining plant, a
The new name given by M. Choisy | native of Buenos Ayres, which re-
to Convélvulus major and some few | quires a greenhouse in this country.
other species. The difference be-| It should be grown in very sandy
tween this new genus and the genus | loam, with the pots well drained,
Convolvulus consists in the shape of| and be kept nearly dry during the

PHLOX.

234

PHLOX.

season of rest. It is propagated by
cuttings.

PHILLY’REA. — Oleince. — Ever-
green bushy shrubs, natives of Eu-
rope and some parts of Asia, which
are very useful in British gardens,
from their shining dark-green leaves
and small fragrant white flowers.
They are often confounded with the
Alatérnus, from which, however,
they are botanically quite distinct,
as that shrub belongs to Rhamna-
cee. The Phillyrea is generally
found in the shrubberies of old
mansions ; as, from the time of
Gerard, till Evelyn so warmly pa-
tronised the Holly, the Phillyrea
and the Alatérnus were the princi-
pal evergreens planted in British
gardens ; and both were great fa-
vourites for topiary work, as no
plants are clipped more easily into
figures of animals, &c.
kinds are quite hardy, aud will
grow in any soil or situation ; and
they may be all propagated by seeds,
layers, or cuttings.

Puito’mis.—Labiate.—The Je- |

rusalem Sage. —Perennialand shrub-
by plants with large coarse-growing
glaucous leaves, greatly resembling
those of the common Sage, and yel-
low or purple flowers disposed in a
whorl round the joints. All the spe-
cies will grow in any light rich soil;
and they are propagated by layers or
cuttings, or by dividing the root.
PHLO'x.—Polemoniacee.—A ge-
nus of beautiful North American
perennials and one annual, of which
there are some species in flower al-
most every month in the year. They
thrive best in sandy loam and peat,
but many of the species will grow
in any common soil. Phléx setacea
is a low trailing perennial, which
produces its flesh-coloured flowers in
| April and May. P. nivalis is of
| equally low growth, and it produces
its white flowers at the same period.

All the

|P. subulata seldom exceeds three
inches in length, and it produces its
beautiful flesh-coloured flowers from
April to June. P. canadénsis has
blue flowers, which are produced in
April and May, and it grows almost
a foot in height. P. divaricata
produces light-blue flowers from
April to June, and grows about the
same height as the former species.
P. ovata and P. ovata Listoniana
grow about one foot high, and pro-
duce purple flowers from May to
August ; and P. pilésa grows about
one foot in height, and produces its
pink flowers in May and June.
There are above a dozen other spe-
cies equally low in growth and pro-
lific in flowers in spring or in the
beginning of summer ; and there
are a number of species which grow
from two to four feet in height, and
flower in July, August, and Sep-
tember. Of these may be mentioned
P. paniculata alba and paniculata
ribra; P. acuminata, which grows
four feet high, and produces pink
flowers from May to August. P.
Pyramidalis and its several varie-
ties, P. latifolia and P. maculata,
grow four feet high, and produce
pink or red flowers from July to
September ; and P. multiflora, which
has a long spike of white flowers
about a foot and a half high, flowers
nearly all the summer. One of the
prettiest of all the kinds of Phlox is
a variety of P. swavéolens, raised in
1843, by Mr. Van Houtte, nursery-
man at Ghent, the flowers of which
are white, and a pink star in the
centre of each, darkest in the mid-
dle, and delicately shaded off. This
plant is sometimes called P. striata
delicatissima. The only annual spe-
cies is P. Drwmméndii and its va-
rieties, which are plants of surpass-
ing beauty raised annually from
seeds or cuttings in light sandy soil,
and admirably adapted for covering

a

ei sss ss Sse

PHORMIUM.

flower-beds or growing in pots. When
raised from seeds, this species should
be treated like a tender annual; and
after being raised in a hotbed in
February or March, it should be
turned out in the open ground about
the middle of May ; or it may be
sown in April or May in the open
ground. In fine seasons it ripens
seeds ; but where it does not it may
be preserved through the winter by
striking cuttings in autumn, and
preserving them in pots placed on
the front shelf of a greenhouse or
inaframe. The varieties vary from
purple to light-rose, and generally
come true from seed. On the whole,
the genus Phlox is one of the most
beautiful of herbaceous plants, and
a garden ought to be no more with-
out some of the species than it ought
to be without Roses or bulbs.

Pue'nix.—Pdlme.—P. dacty-
lifera, the Date Palm, is a well-
known stove-plant, which should be
grown in a sandy loam. Young
plants may be raised from the stones
of the dates sold in the shops, and
if kept in sufficient heat they will
grow freely ; though the trees must
be of considerable age and size be-
fore they bear fruit.

PHO’RMIUM.— A sphodélee.— P.
tenax, the New Zealand Flax, is
a very singular plant, with large
bunches of orange flowers, and very
long, broad, lily-like leaves, the
fibres of which are so strong, that
they are used in New Zealand for
making baskets, and various other
articles, in their coarse state, and
in the same manner as flax for ma-
king sails, &c. In England the
plant is at present rare, but it may
be grown in a greenhouse in a very
rich sandy loam, frequently watered;
the principal objection to its culture
being the great size of its leaves,
which oceupy too much space for it
to be grown in a small house.

235

PHYSIANTHUS.

Puorti’n1a.— Rosdcece.—A very
beautiful evergreen shrub or low tree
formerly called Crate‘gus glabra,
which is nearly hardy, but thrives
best when trained against a wall in
a sheltered situation. The soil should
be sandy loam, and the plants are
propagated sometimes by cuttings
of the ripened wood, but more fre-
quently by grafting or inarching on
some of the hardy kinds of Cra-
tz ‘gus.

Puyceé.ius. — Scrophulariacee.
—A_ splendid suffruticose plant
from the Cape, somewhat resem-
bling a Pentstemon, with bright scar-
let flowers. It flowers in the open
ground, but will probably require a
greenhouse in winter.

Puy’Lica.—Rhamnicee.—Pretty
little heath-like plants, natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, with narrow
leaves, and little terminal heads of
fragrant white flowers, which begin
to appear in autumn, and continue
during winter and early spring.
They are generally grown in a green-
house, and require the same treat-
ment as the Cape Heaths.

Puy’satis. — Solanacee. — The
Winter Cherry. Dwarf, shrubby
and herbaceous plants, with showy
flowers. The fruit is a bright-red
berry in a bladdery calyx ; and when
the calyx has been macerated by
soaking it in water, it has a very
pretty effect. Some of the species
are shrubby, but the greater part
are annual plants ; they are gene-

| rally only half hardy, and they suc-

ceed best when grown in sandy
loam.

Puystia‘ntHus. —A sclepiadee.—
Aclimbing plant from Mexico, which
has proved hardy in the London
Horticultural Society's garden. It
has small whitish flowers, and very
large and handsome fleshy seed-ves-
sels, which look like oval gourds,
and which, when opened, are found

|
|
|

| cies with pale-pink flowers.

PHYTELEPHAS.

to contain the seeds enveloped in a
quantity of fine silky substance,
which looks like the cocoons of silk-
worms, after the fine silk has been
spun off. The Physianthus will
grow in any common soil ; but it
should always be trained against a
wall, as otherwise the large fruit
will be too heavy for the slender
branches. There are two species.

Puysoste‘cia. — Labiate. — P.
imbricata is a beautiful plant, with
pale-purple flowers, nearly allied to
Dracocéphalum, which only requires
the usual treatment of hardy peren-
nials. P. truncata is an annual spe-
Both
are natives of Mexico, and wiil grow
in the open ground, in any common
garden soil.

PuHyTE’LEPHAS. — Cyclanthacee.
—The vegetable Ivory, or Tagua
plant, is nearly allied to the Screw
Pine family, and its fronds resemble
those of the Cocoa-nut tree. There
is no proper stem, but the fronds or
leaves sometimes measure nearly
twenty feet in length, and are of a
pale-green colour, and delicate tex-
ture. ‘‘ The singular heads of the
fertile inflorescence grow round the
base of the plant, often six clusters
at one time, and the heads rest on
the ground, or are wedged between
the leaves, and borne on a buried
footstalk, of which the fibre is ex-

ceedingly tough. These clusters are | “requires a great deal of room.

of an imper feetly rounded form, co-
vered with strong protuberances,
about an inch and a half long. On
dissecting one of these compact
heads, it will be found to consist of
many distinct clusters, each con-
taining about four seeds, closely
knitted together. Hence the popu-
lar name of this palm, Cabesa del
Negro, or the Negro’s Head, is by
no means an inapt comparison, for

the style-like projections resemble a | purple dots.
Enclosing ,

black man’s rigid hair.

236

|

PICOTEE.

the seeds is a yellow sweet oily pulp,
which is collected in the month cf
October, and sold under the name
of Pepa del Tagua. A spoonful of
it with a little sugar and water |
makes the celebrated Chiche de
Tagua, said to be the most delicious
beverage of the country.” The Phyt-
élephas generally inhabits dense
shady woods, at an elevation of
from one to three thousand feet
above the level of the sea. The
fruit is large and very heavy, and
the vegetable ivory, which is the
albumen of the seed, is as hard, or
nearly so, as the ivory of the ele-
phant’s tusks. The plant is a na-
tive of tropical South America, and
has only lately been introduced into
Great Britain ; but there are now
plants at Kew, in the Botanic Gar-
den in the Regent’s Park, and other
places. The one at Kew flowered
in 1855, but did not ripen fruit.

PuytEeu'Ma.—Campanulacee.—
Herbaceous plants, generally with
dark-blue flowers, which will grow
in any ordinary soil, and which are
increased by dividing the roots.

Puytoua’coa.— Chenopodiaceae,
or Phytolacee.—P. decdéndra, the
Virginian Poke, is a fine vigorous-
growing plant, which is ornamental
from the abundance of its black
berries, but which, from its large
leaves and spreading habit of growth

t
| heal be grown in a very rich soil,
and it is increased by seeds or cui-
tings. There are several species, all
of which have black berries, contain-
ing a deep-red juice, which is said
to be used in Portugal to colour Port
wine.

PicotEr.—A kind of Carnation,
with a narrow dark-coloured margin
to the petals, or with the petals
covered with small brown or dark-
For the culture, see

DiA/NTHUS.

PIPINGS. g

PILEWwoRT. —See Fica‘Rra.

tralian shrubs, which require a
richer soil than most other plants
from that country. They should be
grown in a greenhouse in England,
in a soil composed of sandy peat and
loam, mixed with vegetable mould,
or part of an old hotbed. They
should have plenty of light, and
they should be kept regularly wa-
tered.
cuttings.

PimpERNEL.—See ANAGA’LLIS.

‘Pinx.—See Dra/yruvs.

Pirrnes. —Cuttings of Pinks and
Carnations are called pipings, be-

FIG. 40.—PIPING OF A CARNATION.

cause these plants have tubular
stems, and when separated at a
joint, the parts are pulled asunder,
instead of being cut. This is done
in autumn, by taking a shoot that
has nearly done growing, in one
hand, and pulling the upper part of
it off just above a pair of leaves, so
as to separate it at the socket formed
by the axils of the leaves, leaving

a, mal

~ Prewort.—See Froa'rra. _| the ] part pulled off with a tubular
PimELE\A.— Thymelacee.—Aus- | or pipe-like termination.

PITS.

Some
florists then cut off the tips
of the leaves, but others leave
them entire, as shown in fig. 40,
and in both cases the pipings must
be struck in sand with a hand-glass
fixed firmly over them. It may be
here observed, that the herbage of
Pinks and Carnations is called the
grass ; and that when a plant i is in

They are propagated by|a vigorous state of growth, it is said

to have the grass fink

Pripra/nTHUS.—Leguminidse.—A
handsome half-hardy tree, with
large yellow pea-flowers. It will
grow in any common soil, but it
requires a slight protection during
winter.

Pista‘cta. — Terebinthacee. —
The Pistachia Nut-tree. — Very
handsome trees, which abound in
turpentine in their native country,
but which produce very little in
England.

Pits are structures either sunk
in the ground, or raised above it
with brick walls on all sides, and
with a glass cover. For the purpose
of preserving plants from the frost,
they do not require flues, beds of
tan or dung, or any other artificial
mode of heating ; but they do re-
quire artificial heat when they are
employed for preserving greenhouse
plants, for growing hothouse plants,
or for forcing hardy herbaceous
flowers or shrubs into premature
bloom. They are also used as a
substitute for hotbeds in bringing
forward tender annuals, and in
raising seeds. For all these pur-
poses some mode of artificial heating
is required ; and this may either be
accomplished by smoke flues, the
circulation of hot water in pipes of
iron or earthenware, or by the intro-
duction of beds or fermenting mate-
rials, such as tan or dung. The
most convenient mode of heating is

PITS.

238

PLANTING,

unquestionably by hot water, be- | which are heated by tan or dung

cause by this mode there is less |
danger of producing excessive heat ;
and the heat, from being accompa-
nied by moisture, is more congenial
to vegetation than the dry heat of
smoke-flues. Where hot-water pipes
cannot be conveniently procured, or
in the given locality are more expen-
sive than smoke-flues, then these
may be adopted; taking care to
supply moisture to the atmosphere
of the pit, by placing pans of water
on the flues ; or by keeping the sur-
face of the soil, or the path if there
be one, moist by a supply of water
from time to time. The construc-
tion and the heating of pits are so
well known to gardeners, builders,
and ironmongers, that very little
need be said on the subject. They |
may be of any convenient length—
six feet, eight feet, or ten feet in
width, three feet high above the
surface of the ground behind, and
of such a height in front as that the
slope of the glass may form an angle
with the horizon of between 20° and
30°. The depth to which the pit is |
sunk in the soil will depend on the |
uses to which it is to be applied.
When it is merely to preserve plants
from the frost of winter, it need not
be sunk into the soil at all; but
when it is to contain a bark-bed,
the depth of that bed, which may
be between two and three feet,
should be excavated from the soil.
When the pit is to be entered by
the gardener, in order that he may
walk upright, there should be a
path immediately under the back
wall; and this will require the pit
to be at least seven feet in depth.
In this, as in all other cases, suffi-

cient drainage must be provided ;| the free ground or in pots.

and if the walls and floors are built
and laid hollow, the entrance of
moisture and the escape of heat will
be prevented. In general, the pits

have the material placed in the beds
inside ; but in some cases it is placed
around the pit, in what are called
linings, between two feet and three
feet inside, and as high as the walls
of the pit outside, so that the heat
penetrates through the wall to the
dung or soil within ; and to facili-
tate this, the lower parts of the walls
are built with open brickwork. Pits
of this kind are called MacPhail’s
pits, and are admirably adapted for
growing hothouse plants, and for
every description of forcing.

Prrcar'RN1A. — Bromeliacee. —
Handsome herbaceous stove-piants,
with pine-apple-like leaves, and very
singular scarlet or pinkish flowers.
They should be all grown in sandy
peat and rich loam.

PircHER Prant.—See Nupe’y-
THES and SARRACE'NIA.

Pirro’sporuM. — Pittosporee. —
Handsome evergreen bushy shrubs,

'which require a slight protection

during winter. P. Tobira is a native
of China, which has been known to
live out of doors for several years in
a sheltered situation, but which
should be protected from very severe
frosts. It should be grown in a
rich light soil ; and it is propagated
by cuttings, which should be struck
in sand undera hand-glass. P. flava,
introduced in 1854, has bright yellow
flowers. Most of the species have
terminal tufts of white fragrant
flowers, and broadish, shining, dark-
green leaves ; and they are all very
ornamental.

PLANTAIN TREE.—See Mou'sa.

Piant Cases. —See Giass Cases.

PLANTING is the operation of in-
serting plants in the soil, either in
The
simplest kind of planting is that
which consists in removing small
seedling plants, or such as have been
struck from cuttings or layers; and

PLANTING.

239

PLANTING.

this is commonly performed by |

making a round hole with a dibber,
and putting in the root of the plant
to the same depth as it had been
covered with earth before, and
making it fast by thrusting the dib-
ber into the firm earth beside the
hole and pressing it to the root. In
this operation, the great art is to
make the root fast at its extreme
points. Thus, in planting common
seedlings of annuals, or even cab-
bage-plants, if the earth be pressed
close to the root at the upper part,
and not at the extreme points, the
success will hardly be complete ;
and in tender plants, or in a dry
season, a failure will be the result.
In planting plants of a larger size, a
small pit should be opened by the
spade orthetrowel ; the bottom of the
pit having been formed into a cone or
small hill, the plant should be placed
in the centre, and the roots spread
out equally over it on every side.
The roots are then to be covered
with soil, gently pressed over them ;
and the operation must be finished
by watering, so as to consolidate
the soil equally, without making it
firmer on one part of the roots than
another. If the soil should have
been previously dug, trenched, or
loosened to the depth of a foot, or
probably two or three feet, the pit
should not be made so deep as to
throw the neck or collar of the plant
below, or even on a level with the
surface, when the soil is consolidated
by watering. On the contrary, it
must be left of such a height above
it, as that when the soil is finally
consolidated by its own gravity, in-
fluenced by the weather, the neck
shall still be above the general sur-
face of the ground, and the plant
stand on a small hillock. This con-
dition of planting cannot be too
strongly attended to; for nothing
can be more injurious to trans-

planted plants than having their
necks buried more than they were
in a natural state. Nothing is more
common than too deep planting;
and the temptation to it is greater
because deep-planted plants, from
having the roots more accessible to
moisture, are more certain of grow-
ing the first year, and are less in
want of mulching to exclude the
heat and drought, and of staking to
| prevent them from being moved by
| the wind. Hence, in planting trees
| or shrubs, it is of the greatest im-
| portance, not only with a view to
_ their future growth, but also to their
natural appearance above the sur-
face, to have them planted on little
hillocks, greater or less in height
according as the soil may have been
moved to a greater or less depth,
either in the operation of digging
the pit in firm soil, or of planting
in soil which has been moved by
digging, or trenching, or otherwise.
In small gardens it is generally de-
sirable, for the sake of producing
immediate effect, to plant plants of
considerable size ; and in this case,
in addition to the precautions which
have been already mentioned, it is
desirable to plant by what is called
| fixing with water. This operation
is performed in the following man-
ner :—the hole being properly pre-
pared, the plant placed in it, and
the roots spread out on every side,
| and extended as far as they will go,
one person holds the plant upright,
a second sprinkles earth over the
| roots, and a third supplies water
from a watering-pot with a rose on
if the plant be small, and without a
rose if it be a tree of six or eight
feet in height, holding the pot as
high above his head as his arms will
reach. The weight of the water
coming down from such a height
consolidates the soil about the roots,
and fixes them in such a manner as

PLANTING.

240

PLANTING.

to render the plant, if it has been |

carefully taken up, almost in the
same state as it was in before re-
moving. Large trees or shrubs,
if planted in this manner in the
autumn, and staked, where there is
danger from high winds, will grow,
and even flower and fruit the fol-
lowing year, as well as if they had
not been removed. In this kind of

_ planting with large plants, the hil-

lock, left after the operation is
finished, should not be less than a
foot or eighteen inches above the
surrounding surface ; and to lessen
evaporation during the ensuing sum-

| mer, the hillock should, if possible,

be covered with short litter, moss,
turf turned upside down, or even
small stones for the first year. In
staking large plants of this kind,

| the stakes should be placed close to

_ the stem of the plant, in which
| position they are much less likely to

injure the fibrous roots than when
placed at a distance from the tree ;
and the stakes should be made fast
to the stem of the plant by a piece
of straw or hay-rope, or by a piece
of twisted matting, or any kind of
cord ; the part of the stem to which
the stake is tied having previously
had a small handful of straw, or
moss, or mat, bound round it to
prevent the tie from galling the bark
of the stem, and preventing its in-
crease during summer. These stakes
should remain for a year, or some-
times two years, according to the
size of the plant and its facility of
making roots. In general, the sooner
the stakes are taken away the better ;
because the motion of the stem by
the wind is essential to its increasing
in thickness. In this matter much
must be left to the discretion of the
planter, who must always bear in
mind that a staked plant is in a
most unnatural position ; and also,
that if the tree should lean some-

what to one side for some years
after planting, it will ultimately be-
come more or less erect ; and that a
strong, vigorous-looking plant lean-
ing a little to one side, affords a
greater evidence of its being secure
and in sound health, than a straight
erect plant kept in that position by
a stake. In the case of planting
trees with stems three or four inches
in diameter in exposed situations,
two or three stakes may be used,
placed at a short distance from the
base of the stem, and leaning to-
wards it; and where they are made
fast, they should be joined by mat-
ting, hay-ropes, or some other soft
material, so as not to injure or con-
fine the bark. Before transplanting
trees of a timber size, the main roots
are frequently cut at the distance of
five or six feet from the stem a year
previously to transplanting ; in con-
sequence of which they send out
fibres which in the course of the
summer become small roots, so that,
when transplanted, the tree, instead
of drawing its principal nourishment
from spongioles at the distance of
twenty feet or perhaps thirty feet
from the stem, is enabled to draw
it from the distance of six or eight
feet, and thus to continue growing,
though not with the same degree of
vigour as if it had not been trans-
planted. Some kinds of trees, when
of large size, such as the Sycamore,
the Lime, the Horse-chestnut, and a
few others, may be transplanted
without this precaution; but in this
case, the operation must be per-
formed in autumn as soon as the
leaves have dropped, in order to
give the roots time to form some
fibres during the winter ; and the
greater the distance from the stem
at which the roots are cut, the
greater will be the success. Large
trees with wide-spreading roots,
when transplanted, seldom require

a i esses bs ps pss SSS SSIS
.

A

PLANTING.

to be staked, because the roots form

a broad base, which prevents the
stem from being blown to one side.
Where there is danger anticipated
from high winds, the trees may be
secured by three guy-ropes tied to
the upper part of the stem, and
made fast to stakes driven into the
ground at such a distance from the
tree as that the ropes may form an
angle with the ground of 45° ; or
the stronger roots may be kept in
their position by stakes driven into
the ground with their heads beneath
the surface of the soil; the main
roots being made fast to them by
cords.

In all cases of transplanting deci-
duous trees, with the exception of
the Beech and the Hornbeam, some
pruning should be given to the
top, so as to lessen the number of
branches and leaves which are to be
supplied by the root. The quantity
of branches that are required to be
removed will depend partly on the
kind of tree, and partly on the in-
tention of the planter, but mainly
on the climate and soil. Beech trees,
as already mentioned, are injured
when transplanted by having many
branches removed, and often die in
consequence. Sycamores and all the
A’cer tribe, having numerous fibres
near the main stem, require but
little pruning of the head. The
same may be said of the Yew and
the Holly, the Lime and the Elm.
When the object of the planter is to
produce immediate effect by a bulky
head, all the branches may be left
on, whatever may be the kind of
tree ; but in that case the tree will
produce only leaves for a number of
years, or if it produce shoots they
will not exceed a few lines in length.
Ultimately, if the soil be poor and
dry, the tree will probably perish ;
but if the soil should be good and
moist, and the climate also moist,

241

PLANTING.

the tree will in time become vigor-
ous, and produce shoots. Where
the climate is moist, and the soil
good, and also moist, any tree may
be transplanted without pruning the
branches ; because the fibres it will
produce in such a soil and climate
will be sufficient to supply the
moisture transpired by the leaves.
But where the climate is dry and
the soil also dry, no large tree
can be safely transplanted with all
its branches ; because the transpira-
tion by the leaves will be much
greater than the moisture which can
possibly be absorbed by the roots.
Hence, in the dry climate of the
Continent, all trees with stems above
an inch or two in diameter have their
branches entirely cut off, always ex-
cepting the Beech and the Horn-
beam, the Yew, and all the Pine
and Fir, and Cypress tribes. Even
in this country, in Evelyn’s time,
this was the practice ; and the late
Sir Joseph Banks, when he planted
groups of trees with stems of five
inches or six inches in diameter on
a portion of Hounslow Heath, which
was allotted to his residence there,
planted only stumps ten feet or twelve
feet high, which stumps are now
finely-headed trees, conspicuous from
the road in passing Spring Grove.
Much has of late been written on
the subject of transplanting large
trees, by Sir Henry Steuart and
others ; and the practice has been
recommended of leaving on the whole
of the head. Experience, however,
has proved that this can only be
done with advantage under certain
circumstances.

Planting in pots, when the plants
are of the very smallest size, may
be effected by a small dibber, as in
planting in the common soil; but it
is more frequently done on the prin-
ciple of planting in pits; that is,
the pot being properly drained by a

R

ee sss... _________ anne emma

PLANTING,

242

PLANTING,

few potsherds being placed over the | the pit having been prepared with
| hole in the bottom of the pot, and| the greatest care, as in common

an inch or two of soil placed over
them, according to the size of the
pot, the young seedling or newly-
struck cutting is held with one hand,
and soil sprinkled over the roots by a
trowel with the other. When the
pot is filled, the soil is consolidated
by lifting the pot with both hands a
few inches high, and setting it down
once or twice with a slight jerk;
| afterwards supplying water so as to
moisten the whole of the soil in the
pot. The thumb, or a potting-stick
should previously be passed round
| the inner edge of the pot, so as to
| firm the soil round the rim ; other-
wise the water is liable to run down
round the edge of the pot, without
moistening the soil in the middle.
Immediately after planting, the pot
should be set in a position where it
can be shaded during sunshine; but
on no account should tender plants
be shaded during cloudy weather, or
covered with an opaque covering
during night, unless for the purpose
of protecting them from cold. Of
course the after treatment of every
‘plant in a pot must depend on its
nature ; all that it is necessary at
present to treat of is the manner of
planting.

Transplanting plants which have
already been grown in pots is either
effected by removing the ball or
mass of earth containing the roots
entire, or by gently breaking the
ballin pieces and stretching the roots
out on every side. When the ball
is not broken, the operation is called
shifting. Plants are often reared
in pots on account of their tender
nature when young, or for the con-
venience of transporting them to a
distance, though they are intended
ultimately to be planted in the open
ground. In almost all cases of this
kind, the ball should be broken, and

planting, the fibrous roots should
be stretched out in it as far as they
will go on every side. Hence, a
plant which has been grown in a
very small pot, when it is to be
transplanted into the open garden,
may often require a pit three feet or
four feet in diameter. There is not |
perhaps an operation in the whole
science of gardening that affords a
higher gratification to the planter
than transplanting plants from pots
when the pits and soil are properly ©
prepared, and the roots carefully
stretched out without being bruised
or broken. In consequence of the
extraordinary sources of nutriment
which are thus afforded to the plant,
and of the greatly increased power
given to the roots, the shoots which
it makes the first year are extra-
ordinary, and evince a degree of |
vigour which none but a gardener |
of experience could believe possible.
On the other hand, when a plant in
a pot is turned out into a pit, how-
ever well the soil may be prepared,
if the roots are not stretched out, it
may remain for many years without
growing much faster than it pre-
viously did in the pot. This is often
the case with the more rare species
of the Pine and Fir tribe, and with
Magnolias and other plants kept in
pots by nurserymen ; and it is fur-
ther attended by this evil, that the
plants are easily blown to one side
by the wind. In the case of surface-
rooted plants, such as Pines, if they
have been some years in the pot,
they never send out roots sufficient
to keep them upright ; and hence the
Pinaster and Stone Pine, which are
almost always kept in pots in British
nurseries, are generally found lean-
ing to one side in plantations in this
country. It is necessary, however,
to make the distinction between

nl
ne

PLANTING.

243

PLANTING.

plants newly planted in pots, and
those which have been in pots for
two or three years; for the former
may perhaps have few roots which
have reached the sides of the pot, as
in the case of China Roses struck
and potted early in the season and
planted out the same summer, and
which, of course, may be planted
out without breaking the ball, The
same observation will apply to all
other plants in pots that have not
their fibrous roots somewhat woody ;
and also to all hair-rooted plants,
such as Heaths, Rhododendrons,
Azaleas, A’rbutus, and in general
to all the Ericacez, which having at
no age large woody roots, may al-
ways be transplanted from pots with
the balls entire.

It may here be observed that large
shrubs of almost all the Ericacez
may be transplanted at almost any
age with less danger than most other
plants, as, from the slender and
fibrous nature of the great mass of
their roots, they are less liable to
injury than woody-rooted plants.
All that is required is that they
should be taken up with a large ball
of earth, and that when replanted
they should be abundantly supplied
with water.

Hitherto nothing has been said
especially applicable to evergreens,
whether in the open ground or in
pots. These being at every season
of the year more or less in a growing
state, it is always desirable to trans-
plant them with balls; and it is
only young plants of evergreens,
such as seedling Hollies, Portngal
Laurels, and young cuttings or layers
of the common Laurel, Laurustinus,
Sweet Bay, Phillyréa, Alatérnus,
Junipers, &c., which can be sent at
any distance with a certainty of
growing without balls. The com-
mon Holly, when it is above three
or four feet in height, requires to be

taken up with a ball, and that ball |

carefully preserved by being tied up
in a mat—or, according to the
Dutch practice, put into a basket
of wickerwork. The same remark
will apply to Arbor Vite, Junipers,
A’rbutus, Rhododendrons, Box,

Phillyreas, and even the common |

Laurel,

The best season for transplanting
all deciduous trees and shrubs is the
autumn ; because the plant has time
to produce some fibres, and to ac-
commodate itself to its new soil and
situation during the winter, so as to
be prepared to grow freely the fol-
lowing spring. Evergreens may also
be transplanted in autumn, or at
any time in open moist weather
during autumn, winter, or early
spring. In dry or frosty weather
it is always dangerous to remove
them, because the sap in an ever-
green is more or less in motion at
every season of the year, and the
plant is never so completely dormant
as in the case of deciduous trees.
Formerly it was thought that the
best season for removing evergreens
was in the latter part of summer,
shortly after they had completed
their year’s growth ; but this doc-
trine was only acted upon in the
time of Miller and before, when
there were comparatively few spe-
cies of evergreens in British gar-
dens ; and it has been recently found
by Mr. M‘Nab (see his Treatise on
Transplanting Evergreens) that
evergreens may be transplanted with
much greater safety in mild weather
in autumn or winter, than at any
other period of the year. Herba-
ceous plants may in general be
transplanted at any season when
they are not in flower or coming into
flower; but the safest time for pe-
rennials is in autumn, after they have
ripened their seeds, and are going
into a dormant state. Biennial and

k 2

PLEASURE-GROUND.

annual plants are best transplanted
when quite young, or after they have
obtained their second or third pair
of leaves; and seedlings in general
may be treated in a similar manner.
In all cases of planting (excepting
with Cacti and other succulents) the
plants should be watered as soon as
they are fixed in their new situa-
tions ; and when practicable, they
should be shaded for a few days

| from the heat of the sun.

PLatystTEMoNn.—Ranunculacee.
—One of the Californian annuals,
with cream-coloured flowers and
woolly glaucous leaves. For the cul-
ture, see CALIFORNIAN ANNUALS.

Puatysti’eMa. — Papaverticee.
—A very curious little plant, with
the petals alternately white and
yellow. For the culture, see Cani-
FORNIAN ANNUALS.

PLEASURE-GROUND is that por-
tion of a country residence which is
devoted to ornamental purposes, in
contradistinction to those parts
which are exclusively devoted to
utility or profit, such as the kitchen-
garden, the farm, and the park. In
former times, when the geometrical
style of laying out grounds prevailed,
a pleasure-ground consisted of ter-
race-walks, a bowling-green, a la-
byrinth, a bosquet or small wood,
and a shady walk, commonly of
nut-trees, but sometimes of taller
trees, with ponds of water, foun-
tains, statues, &c. In modern times
the pleasure-ground consists chiefly
of a lawn of smoothly-shaven turf,
interspersed with beds of flowers,
groups of shrubs, scattered trees,
and, according to circumstances,
with a part or the whole of the scenes
and objects which belong to a plea-
sure-ground in the ancient style.
The main portion of the pleasure-
ground is always placed on that side
of the house to which the drawing-
room windows open ; and it extends

244

PLEASURE GROUND,

in front and to the right and left
more or less, according to the extent
of the place ; the park, or that part
devoted exclusively to pasture and
scattered trees, being always on the
entrance front. There is no limit
to the extent either of the pleasure-
ground or the park, and no necessary
connection between the size of the
house and the size of the pleasure-
ground. A small house and a large
garden was the wish of the poet
Cowley ; and the largest parks are
sometimes attached to very small
houses and small pleasure-grounds,
and the contrary. A_ pleasure-
ground in modern times differs from
that prevalent at any former period,
in including all the scenes and
sources of enjoyment and recreation
of the ancient style as well as the
modern. For example, adjoining
the drawing-room front there is a
terrace or terraces, with or without
an architectural flower-garden, de-
corated with statues, vases, foun-
tains, and other sculptured or archi-
tectural objects. Beyond this, or
connected with it to the right and
left, there may be a lawn with
flowers, shrubs, groups of trees,
ponds, lakes, rock-work, summer-
houses, or greenhouses, an orangery,
and sometimes a botanic garden.
Walks may stretch away on either,
or on both sides, to a shrubbery,
which, in the present day, is com-
monly formed into an Arboretum
and Fruticetum, containing all the
hardy trees and shrubs which the
extent of the scene will admit of ;
and in the course of the walk
through this scene there may be rus-
tic structures ; such as woodhouses,
mosshouses, roothouses, rockhouses,
or Cyclopxan cottages; Swiss cot-
tages, common covered seats, ex-
posed seats of wood or stone, temples,
ruins, grottoes, caverns, imitations
of ancient buildings ; and, in short,

SN

PLEROMA.

—EE —

there is scarcely an architectural
object capable of being rendered
ornamental, and a shelter from the
sun, the wind, or the rain, which may
not find a place. To know all the
different scenes which may be intro-
duced in a pleasure-ground in modern
times, it is only necessary to visit
such a place as Alton Towers, in
Staffordshire, where, in addition to
the objects mentioned, may be seen
pagodas, hermitages, an imitation
of Stonehenge, and of other Druidi-
cal monuments, shellwork, gilt
domes, and huge blocks of mossy
rock, bridges, viaducts, and many
other curious objects. In small
places of an acre or two, the most
interesting objects which may be
introduced in a pleasure-ground are
collections of trees, shrubs, and her-
baceous plants, which may always
be arranged to combine as much
picturesque beauty and general effect
us if there were only the few kinds
of trees and shrubs planted which
were formerly in use in such scenes.
Where a small place, even of a
quarter of an acre, is to be made
the most of, there should seldom be
more than one or two trees, shrubs,
or plants of exactly the same kind,
and the ornamental plants imme-
diately adjoining the house may be
combined with the verandah, por-
tico or porch, conservatory, green-
house or hothouses, terrace flights
of steps, balustrades, vases, statues,
fountains, walks, rockwork, and a
great variety of similar objects, ac-
cording to the taste of the designer,
the peculiarities of the situation,
and the expense which the proprietor
is disposed to incur.

PLEeRO'MA.—Melastomaceee.— P.
élegans is a very handsome shrub,
with large dark-purple flowers. It
is a native of the Organ Mountains
of Brazil, whence it was introduced
in 1846.

245

POIVREA.

PiumsBa'co.—Plumbaginacee.—
Lead-wort.—Greenhouse plants, re-
markable for their vigorous growth
and abundance of flowers. They
should be grown in light rich soil,
and they are propagated by cuttings.

Popo’LepPis.—Compésite.—Very
pretty Australian plants, which
should be grown in a compost of
loam and peat. They are all nearly
hardy ; the perennials are increased
by dividing the root, and the an-
nuals (P. grdcilis, &e.) by sowing
on a hotbed in February or March,
and transplanting into the open
border in March.

PopopHy’LLuM.—Podophyllacee.
—The May Apple, or Duck’s foot.
—An American herbaceous marsh
plant, which should be grown ina
light rich soil kept moist, and which
is increased by seeds or dividing its
creeping roots. ‘he flower is white,
and the fruit, which is eatable, is
green and about the size of a plum.

Ports Cassta.—See Osy'RIs.

Poincra‘na.—See CmSALPl'nIA.

Pornse’t11a.— Fuphorbiacee.—
A most splendid plant, not for its
flowers, which are small and white,
but for its large bright scarlet brac-
teas, which, at a little distance,
have a superb appearance. There
is a variety with white bracteas,
but it is very inferior to the species.
This plant requires a stove, in
which it should be grown in a com-
post of loam and peat. After it
has shed its leaves, it should be
allowed a season of rest, during
which it should be kept nearly dry.
It is increased by cuttings, which,
.when taken off, should be dried for
a few days, and then plunged into
the tan of a pine-pit or stove.

Por’vREa.— Combretacee.— This
new genus, established by Professor
De Candolle, includes all those
species of the genus Combrétum
which have ten stamens and five-

sachsen seas tits i et eS RA CE aS LE A EA

en

POLIANTHES.

246

POLMAISE HEATING.

angled seeds ; the type being Com-
brétum purpwreum (Poivrea cocci-
nea. Dec.). For the culture, see
CoMBRE‘TUM.

PoLemo'n1uM. — Polemoniacee.
—Greek Valerian.—The common
wild species, P. cariulewm, is very
abundant on the dry sandy banks
in the lanes near Shenstone, in
Staffordshire, where it is called
Charity, though its common name
in other parts of England is Jacob’s
Ladder. All the kinds succeed best
in gravelly or chalky soil, and they
are all increased by dividing the
roots.

Poxta/NnTHES.— Hemerocallidec.
—The Tuberose.—A bulbous-rooted
plant, a native of the East Indies,
remarkable for its highly odoriferous
white flowers. The bulbs are im-
ported from Italy, where they are
grown for exportation as Hyacinths
are in Holland. They require to
be brought forward in a frame or
pit ; and when coming into flower,
they should be removed to a green-
house or any cool airy apartment,
where they will diffuse a powerful
fragrance, which to some is grate-
ful and to others oppressive. They
should be potted in sandy loam ;
and if the bulbs are intended to
flower the second year, the plants
should be replaced in heat close to
the glass, and kept there till the
leaves begin to decay; after which
the bulbs may be treated like those
of the Hyacinth. Itisrarely, how-
ever, that this can be done with
success, and it is therefore better
to throw the plants away when they
have done flowering, and purchase
fresh bulbs every year. In plea-
sure-grounds of limited extent, a
few plants of the Tuberose in flower,
distributed over them at distances
of fifty or one hundred yards plant
from plant, will diffuse a most de-
lightful fragrance in the summer

and autumnal evenings; a circum-
stance well understood in the public
gardens in the vicinity of Paris.

PotmalsE Heatine.—The prin-
ciple of this mode of heating is to
imitate the natural atmosphere of a
hot climate by allowing the plants
a constant change of heated air ;
and it differs from Penn’s system,
with which it has been compared,
in supplying a constant current of
fresh air, instead of merely allow-
ing the same air to circulate through
the house again and again. This
mode of heating was first used in
a stove erected at Polmaise, in Stir-
lingshire ; but afterwards the stove
was very much improved by the late
Mr. Meek ; and various modifica-
tions of the system have been since
suggested.

The annexed description and
figure of Polmaise Heating are
copied from the Gardeners’ Chron-
icle for Feb. 21, 1846. ‘* Let the
outer shaded lines A A (in fig. 41)
represent the walls of a span-roofed
hothouse, and B those of a hot
chamber, the sides and roof of
which it will be well to line with
some non-conducting material ; the
second shaded lines within A re-
present the walls of a bark bed.
The portion of the floor marked
C C, beneath the bark bed and ex-
tending towards the hot chamber
in the direction of the dotted lines,
is to be laid hollow, and its sup-

ports so arranged as to allow of free |

atmospheric communication beneath
it. Between the wall of the bark
bed (extending round its threesides),
and the lines D D D D, is an open-
ing through which the air of the
house may have free passage into
the space beneath. The arrows in-
dicate the direction of the atmos-
pheric currents passing beneath the
floor and the wall of the house into
the hot air chamber at E EH, and

ee ee

TT

0 TE He 6S
Ta:
a jucil
one ip
(i a ts ‘ae —— LAY
ft ge ee
F iS te Selena
s N ne «9

ZZ

POLYGALA.

248

POLYPODIUM,

here a small portion of the air is
divided from the rest, as shown at
F, where there are two dampers,
No. 1 acting horizontally, and No.
2 vertically. By means of No. 2
a perfect command is obtained over
the quantity of air supplied to the
fire, and borne away by the cease-
less currents flowing onwards from
beneath the floor of the house. The
water-trough O is to be furnished
with a screen, extending in front and
over the hot air opening, so that
the escape of the latter into the
house will not fully take place till
it has passed over a considerable
portion of the surface of the water
in the trough.”
Po.ya’NTHUS.—See Pri/MvLA.
Poxy’GaLsa.—Polygalee. —Milk-
wort.—Very handsome greenhouse
shrubs, natives of the Cape of Good
Hope, which should be grown in a
compost of two-thirds peat, and
one-third of very sandy loam, or
equal parts of peat and sand, with
one-third of vegetable mould, may
be used. The plants should be
frequently watered ; but the water
should not be suffered to remain in
a stagnant state about the roots.
When it is wished to raise young
plants, the tips of the shoots should
be taken off about three inches long,
and struck in sand under a bell-
glass. All cuttings of the shrubby
Polygalas are very apt to damp off;
and therefore the glasses should be
frequently taken off and wiped.
There are other kinds of Polygala,
natives of Europe, which are her-
baceous perennials; and others
which are natives of North Ame-
rica, some of which are annuals and
some perennials. All the herbaceous
Polygalas are hardy dwarf plants,
very suitable for rock-work ; and
they may be grown in any common
soil, though they prefer peat or very
sandy loam. Some of the kinds of

Polygala are now included in the
genus Muraltia, the type of which
is P. Heisteria ; and others in the
genus Mandia, the type of which is
P. spinosa,

Poty'conatum. —Smilacee, or
Asphodélew. —Solomon’s Seal.—
Hardy perennial plants which re-
quire no other care than planting
in any common garden soil. They
will thrive either in exposed situa-
tions, or under the shade of trees,
but the flowers are generally largest
when the plants are grown in the
shade. They are sometimes in-
cluded in Convallaria.

PoLyGo’nuM.—Polygonee.—This
is a very extensive genus and em-
braces a great many very different
plants ; some of which are British
weeds, and others stove plants from
the East Indies or New South Wales.
Some of the commonest kinds in
British gardens are the Buckwheat
(Polygonum Fagopyrum), the Gar-
den Persicaria (P. Persicaria), and
the Water-pepper (P. Hydrépiper),
the beautiful pink flowers of which
are so ornamental in the ponds in
Kensington Gardens and _ other
places. Plants so various in their
nature require of course different

kinds of soil and situation; but -

they will all grow in sandy loam,
and are generally of the easiest cul-
ture.
Portypo‘p1ium.—Cryptogamia Li-
lices.—An extensive genus of very
beautiful Ferns, some of which are
natives of Britain, and others are
exotic. All Ferns should be grown
in shady, damp places; and the
hardy ones thrive most in a shrub-
bery under the drip. of trees, where

few other plants will grow. The

exotic kinds should be grown ina
stove glazed with green glass; and
the atmosphere should be kept

damp by water being frequently

poured on the floor and flues.

i

|
|

'

}

|
.

POTENTILLA.

249

POTTING.

PomaADE’RRIs. — Rhamnacee.—
Australian shrubs with cymes of
yellow flowers and generally of
woolly leaves, nearly allied to Cea-
nothus. They are very nearly
hardy, and may be grown in the
open air with a little protection
during winter. They should be
grown in sandy peat, or in a mix-
ture of peat and loam; and they
are propagated by cuttings.

-PoMEGRANATE.—See Pu'nica.

PONTEDE'RIA.— Pontederacewe.—
Stove aquatics, that should be
planted in rich loamy soil, and the
cistern filled up with water. They
are increased by dividing the roots.

Porpy.—See Papa‘ver.

PorcuPInE Cactus.—See Ecur-
Noca’CTUS.

PortucaAL LAUREL.— Cérasus
lusitanica.—A handsome evergreen
shrub, which thrives best in moist
shady situations, and which some-
times attains the size of a tree. In
Treland, Portugal Laurels attain an
enormous size, the moisture of the
climate suiting them admirably.

PortuLa‘ca. — Portulacee. —
Splendid annual plants with suc-
culent stems, fleshy leaves, and bril-
liantly-coloured flowers. They are
natives of South América, and re-
quire to be raised on a hotbed.

PoTENTI’'LLA.—Rosdcee.—A ge-
nus of herbaceous plants and one or
two skrubs, the greater part of
which are ornamental, and some
eminently so. They all thrive in
any common soil, and are readily

| inereased by division of the plants,

or by seeds, which most of them
produce in abundance. They also
hybridise freely, from which new
kinds are frequently raised by
florists. The principal shrubby spe-
cies is Potentilla fruticésa, which
forms a hardy bush, commonly be-
tween two feet and three feet high,
and produces abundance of yellow

flowers in July. The most orna-
mental herbaceous species is P.
Russelliana, with rich dark scarlet
flowers. All the herbaceous species
are low, few of them exceeding one
foot in height, and the greater
part not being above six inches.
They are delightful plants for pots
or for rockwork, and the whole are
so hardy and of such easy culture,

that they will bear neglect better |
than most other inhabitants of the |

border or the flower-garden.
Pottine.—The subject of potting
plants may be considered in two
ways ; first, with reference to the
advantages of that mode of growing
plants as compared with growing
them in the free soil ; and secondly,
with reference to the performance
of the operation of potting. Plants
growing in pots are placed in very
unnatural circumstances, from the
limit given to the extension of their
roots by the small quantity of soil
and the confined space of the pot ;
and by the circumstance of the out-

side of the pot being constantly |

exposed to the action of the air on
every side. In consequence of these
conditions, the roots of plants in
pots are alternately scorched and
cooled, and dried by the action of
the atmosphere ; and, as, to keep
the plants alive, they require to be
frequently watered, the soil soon
becomes soddened, or soured as it
is called by gardeners, and the
plant is either checked in its growth,
or becomes diseased. Nevertheless,
by well-considered treatment, plants
may be grown in pots to a high de-
gree of perfection, and some kinds
better than in the free soil. For
this purpose, two things are more
especially requisite; the first is to
provide’ sufficient drainage for the
escape of superfluous matter; and
the second is to cover the sides of
the pot by some medium which

POTTING.

250

POTTING.

shall prevent the action of the sur-.
rounding air in heating or drying
the outside of the pot, and conse-
quently the soil and roots within.
Every pot, tub, or vessel, in which
a plant is grown, contains a hole or
holes in the bottom or lower sides ;
and these are to be prevented from
being closed by the soil by a cover-
ing of potsherds, shells, or small
stones, covered with turfy matter,
over which the soil in which the
plant is grown is to be placed. To
prevent the sides of the pot or vessel
in which the plant is grown from
being scorched or dried by the heat
of the sun, the pot is plunged in
soil, or in moss, or some other po-
rous matter, or the pots are placed
sufficiently near together to shade
one another. Different kinds of
plants require different degrees of
drainage, and of protection from
the sides of the pot. For example,
all Orchidaceous plants, succulents,
and hair-rooted plants, such as the
Ericacexe, require a great deal of
drainage ; and all plants which re-
quire rich moist soil, such as the
Scitaminez and many of the most
vigorous-growing tropical herbaceous
plants, require the sides of the pot
to be protected by plunging it in
tan, sand, ashes, soil, moss, or
some other non-conducting medium,
which will not be readily permeable
by draught or heat.

With respect to the operation of
potting plants, when seedlings or
plants newly-rooted by cuttings,
layers, or other means are to be
potted, a small pot is chosen, either
of the least size, or a size somewhat
larger, according to the bulk of the
plant to be planted, or its known
vigour of growth. The hole in the
bottom of the pot being covered
with one or more potsherds, and
with some rough, turfy, rooty, or
mossy matter, or with coarse gravel,

some soil is put inoverit. Onthis
the roots of the young plants are
placed and spread out, and soil is
placed over them till the pot is
filled, as before mentioned under
the article Puanrine. The soil in
the pot is then consolidated by
shaking, and lifting up, and setting
it down once or twice with a jerk,
the soil round the edge of the pot
being rendered firm by the thumb,
or by a stick, as already mentioned.
Plants of larger size, without balls
of earth attached to the roots, are
planted exactly in the same manner,
excepting that the pots chosen are
larger in proportion to the size of
the plant. Plants which have
grown in the free soil during sum-
mer, such as Pelargoniums, Fuchs-
ias, Myrtles, and such other plants
as are turned out of pots into the
open garden in the beginning of
summer, and taken up and repotted
about the latter end of autumn, are
commonly taken up with balls ;
and when this is the case, the pot
chosen must be of a sufficient size
to admit of the ball of earth with-
out breaking it. Previously to the
taking up of these plauts, more es-
pecially when they have grown with
great vigour, it is found advanta-
geous to cut the roots all round
about the same distance from the
main stem as the size of the ball
was when put into the ground ; by
which.means the plant receives a
check before it is taken up, and is
prepared to endure the still greater
check which it will unavoidably re-
ceive when potted. This precau-
tion is more especially requisite for
such strong-growing plants as the
Brugmansias, Fiichsia falgens, Scar-
let Pelargoniums, Stocks, Wall-
flowers, &c. Ali plants, after being

newly potted, should receive a suf-
ficient quantity of water to moisten
the whole of the soil in the pot ; and

. the pot is held with the right hand,

POTTING,

all of them require to be shaded, to |
prevent excessive transpiration till
they have begun to grow.

Plants in pots which are to be
transplanted into other pots with
the ball entire require compara-
tively little care. The new pot
should be at least one size larger
than the old one out of which the
plant is to be taken, and, being
properly drained, and some mould
put ever the drainage, the plant to
be changed is turned out of the
first pot by turning it upside down,
holding the left hand on the surface
of the soil in the pot, and with the
neck of the plant between the two |
middle fingers, while the bottom of |

and then the ball is loosened by the |
edge of the pot being struck against
any fixed object, such as the side of
a potting-bench, or the handle of a
spade stuck in the ground. The
ball containing the plant will thus
drop out into the left hand, and the
potsherds that have come out with
it being taken off with the right
hand, the ball thus prepared is set
in the middle of the prepared pot,
and the interstices between the
ball and the sides of the new pot
are filled in with earth, and made
firm by a potting-stick. The |

may then be lifted up with both
hands and set down two or three
times with a jerk, so as to consoli-
date the whole. The pot is then to
be supplied with water to such an |
extent as to moisten the whole of |
the earth which it contains ; and it
may be set where it is finally to
remain without the necessity of |
shading. This operation is called
shifting.

In potting plants, whether in

251

POTTING.

particles of earth are adhering to
the sides of the pot, the fresh soil
put in when the plant comes to be
shifted will so adhere to the matter
attached to the sides as to prevent
the ball from being turned out with-
out breaking, and tearing asunder
the fibrous roots ofthe plant. When
the sides of a pot in which a plant
is to be planted, or a ball shifted,
are wet, the new soil becomes sod-
den or soured, and also adheres so
firmly to the sides of the pot as not
to come out in shifting without

breaking, as in the preceding case. |

The soddening or souring in this
latter case appears to proceed from
the choking up of the pores of the
sides of the pot.

PoTSHERDS, or crocks, are pieces
of flower-pots, tiles, or bricks broken
very small, and used for draining
pots where it is required to retain
a certain degree of moisture round
the roots of the plants. Thus pot-
sherds should be used for hair-rooted

plants, such as the Cape and Aus- |

tralian shrubs, and also the North
American Rhododendrons and Aza-
leas ; as they require to have their
roots kept in an equable state of
moisture, which would be destruc-
tive to the Cacti and other similar
plants. But cinders, when of a

large size, are very useful in drain- |
ing pots for very delicate succulent- |

rooted plants, as they do not either
absorb or retain moisture, which
erocks always do. When cinders
are sifted, the largest may be re-
served for this purpose; and the
ashes that fall from them, or any
coal too small to burn, will be use-
ful for setting greenhouse plants on
during summer, as they will pre-
vent worms from coming out of the

small or in large pots, it is essen- | ground under them. Unless this
tially necessary that the inside of | precaution be taken, worms will
the pot should be perfectly clean | creep through the holes at the bot-
and dry. Ifit is not clean, and if | tom of the pots, and do great injury

|
}

PRIMULA.

252

to the plants, by tearing asunder |

the tender fibres of the roots in
passing through the mould, and
particularly in throwing up their
casts.

Portine-stTick.—An instrument
made of wood, and resembling a
paper-knife, but thicker and blunter
at the extremity. Its use isto push
the earth into the pots when plants
are shifted or transplanted, and it
prevents the necessity of using the
thumb for that purpose, as is gene-
rally done by gardeners. Potting-
sticks may be made of different sizes
according to the size of the pots.

PRICKLY PEAR.—See Opu’nTIA.

PRIMROSE.—See Pri’MULA.

PrimuLa.— Primulacee. — The
Primrose.—This genus includes
three of the most popular and beau-
tiful of florists’ flowers, viz. the
Auricula, the Polyanthus, and the
Primrose. Of each of these three
there are numerous varieties, and
much has been written on their cul-
ture and management. I shall
here endeavour to give a short out-
line of the treatment of each.

The Auricula (Primula Auri-
cula) is a native of the Alps of
Switzerland, where its flowers are
commonly yellow and very fragant ;
it may be gathered in abundance on
the road-side on the highest part of
the pass of the Simplon, growing
with the different Saxifrages, and
not far from Rhododéndron hir-
sutum. When it was transplanted
into gardens is uncertain, but it has
been cultivated in Britain since the
days of Gerard, in 1596; andina
state of cultivation its flowers are
yellow, red, blue, purple, white,
and green, and sometimes double,
though the only double variety has
the flowers yellow. Many elaborate
directions have been given for pre-
paring the soil for the Auricula ;
and while some writers, as Justice,

| plants are to be grown in pots.

PRIMULA.

recommend rotten willow-wood and
old cow-dung, others, as Emmer-
son, recommend bullock’s blood,
sugar-baker’s scum, and concen-
trated night-soil. The plants, how-
ever, will grow and thrive on any
rich loamy soil; for example, in a
mixture of leaf-mould, or thoroughly
rotten cow-dung and loam. They
will even grow very well in heath-
soil mixed with loam, and this is
the soil in which they are commonly
grown in the neighbourhood of
Paris. Whatever kind of manure
is used for the Auricula, it should
be so thoroughly decomposed as to
have become a fine mould, and, in
this state, it may be mixed with
the common soil of gardens in equal
parts, with the addition of a fifth
or a sixth part of coarse sand if the
All
the choice varieties of Auricula are
grown in pots, and kept under cover
in glass frames shaded; or placed
in a northern exposure during win-
ter and spring, and in the open air
in a situation open to the east, or
the west during summer after the
flowering season is over. During
the time they are in flower, they are
commonly kept in frames close
under the glass, or under hand-
glasses, to protect the flowers from
the rain ; the flowers in all the va-
rieties, and the leaves in some,
being more or less covered with a
powdery bloom, the preservation of
which is a desideratum among choice
cultivators. The Auricula is pro-
pagated by division of the root, or
by cutting off slips which have
generally some roots attached, and
are put at once into small pots.
The season for performing the ope-
ration is shortly after the flowers
have gone off, or, if they are left
on, immediately after the seed has
ripened. There are common kinds
of Auricula which are planted in

PRIMULA.

berders or in beds in the open
ground ; but, as before observed,
all the choicer sorts are grown in
pots and kept in pits or frames.
The culture requires so much care
and nicety, that whoever would ex-
cel in it, and possess a good collec-
tion, should procure a book espe-
cially devoted to the culture of this
and other florists’ flowers ; for ex-
ample, Hogg’s Treatise on the Au-
ricula, or Maddock’s Florists’ Di-
vectory. Auriculas, when grown as
florist’s flowers, have almost innu-
merable names ; but they may be all
divided into three classes, viz., those
with green edges, those with grey
edges, and those of only one colour,
which are called selfs. No Auricula
is valued that is what is called pin-
eyed, that is, if the styleand stigma
appear above the anthers.

The Polyanthus (Primula vulga-
ris var. cauléscens) and the Prim-
rose (Primula vulgaris var. acat-
lis) are cultivated in the same soil
and in the same manner as the Au-
ricula; but being much hardier,
and also naturally stronger, a larger
proportion of loam is used in the
soil, and only the more choice sorts
are grown in pots. Both Polyan-
thuses and Primroses form most
ornamental border flowers in early
spring, but only the Polyanthus is
what is properly called a florists’
flower. The colour of the flower of
the Polyanthus is always yellow
and brown, and the finest flowers
are those that have the segments of
the corolla flat, and the circum-
ference marked with a yellow line,
the anthers of the stamens being
only visible, and not the pistil, the
anthers being arranged symmetri-
cally, so as to form what florists
call a moss eye. Sometimes the
anthers are not seen, but the style
and stigma stand up conspicuously
like a large pin, and when this is

253

PRIMULA.

the case, the flowers are called pin-
eyed, and are considered worthless.
The double Polyanthus, and the
red and white Hose-in-hose Prim-
rose, are two varieties, having
double corollas, which may be called
botanists’ varieties, and are orna-
mental border flowers, but are not
valued by florists. Besides these,
however, there are a great many
florists varieties with names, which
are cultivated in pots like Auricu-
las. As these plants vary so much
it is interesting to raise them from
seed, which may be done in the
following manner :—The seeds may
be gathered when the capsules are
ready to burst in July, and sown
immediately in a shady border, or
in pots or pans of loamy soil kept

/moist and shaded. The covering

should be very slight, otherwise the
seeds will not come up. In fine
seasons seeds sown as soon as they
are gathered, will produce plants
which will flower in the following
autumn; but in general it is neces-
sary to wait till the next spring.
When the seedlings have produced
two or three leaves, they should be
transplanted into rich loamy soil
in a shady situation at the distance
of a few inches from each other;
and as they come into flower, the
good sorts should be marked, and
the less admired kinds pulled up
and thrown away. When the seed
is not sown immediately after being

| gathered, it may be kept till the

following March, and treated as
above mentioned. Auricula seed
requires exactly the same treat-
ment; excepting that it is generally
sown in pans of soil composed of a
mixture of leaf-mould and loam,
and the seedlings are transplanted
into larger pans, or into single small
pots. P. denticulata, P. cortusot-
des, and many other species, are
very ornamental low plants, which

PRIVET.

generally require a loamy soil, and
a somewhat moist situation.

The Primrose is very ornamental
as a border flower, but it has not
sported so much as the Polyanthus,
and there are therefore no florists’
Primroses. The border or garden
varieties, however, which are mostly
double, are very showy; among
these the double flesh-coloured,
double white, double brimstone,
double red, double copper, double
dark-purple, and double violet, de-
serve a place inevery garden. The
single white and the single red,
both of which are found wild, are
also much admired, and are valuable
as coming into bloom in March.
Plants may be raised from seed, as
directed for the Polyanthus.

P. pre’nitens, the Chinese Prim-
rose, is a very beautiful greenhouse
plant, of which there are varieties
with pink, with white, and with
semi-double flowers. All these are
particularly valuable, as forming
neat little plants and flowering
throughout the winter. They are
propagated by seeds, which generally
come true to the variety; or by
cuttings, which must be struck in
sand under a bell-glass, and with
bottom-heat. They are only bien-
nials, and therefore new plants re-
quire to be raised every year. They
are generally grown in pots, which
should be well drained with pot-
sherds, and filled up with a rich
compost of equal parts of loam,
peat, or sand, and rotten dung or
vegetable mould.

PRINCE'S FEATHER.—Amardn-
tus hypochondriacus.—See Ama-
RA’/NTUS.

Pri'nos.—Rhamnacee.—Hardy
North Ameriean shrubs, that will
grow in any light soil, though they
prefer peat, and any situation. They
are generally propagated by layers.

Privet.—See Ligu’stRum,

254

|

PROPS,

Prona ‘ya.— Pittosporacee.—P.
élegans is a very pretty little twin-
ing plant with purple flowers, a
native of the Swan River Settle-
ment. It is easily propagated by
cuttings ; and, like most other Aus-
tralian plants, it thrives in a mix-
ture of sand, loam, and peat ; but
it should be grown in very small
pots, and not kept too moist. It is
a valuable greenhouse plant, from
the great abundance and long dura-
tion of its flowers. It looks best
trained to a trellis.

Props are artificial supports for
plants; and they are of various
kinds, according to the nature of
the plant that is to be supported.
Twining plants are supported
by single rods, stakes, or poles
without branches; plants which
climb by tendrils are supported by
branched rods; and plants which
raise themselves by elongation, or
long slender shoots, among other
plants, are supported artificially by
branched rods, or by being tied to
simple rods. All these kinds of
plants, when too tender to be sup-
ported in the open garden, are
trained to walls, which are the uni-
versal supports of plants, whether
of the hardy and ligneous kinds, or
of such as are slender, somewhat
delicate, and either naturally climb-
ing, such as Bigndnia capreolata,
—or rambling or trailing, such as
different kinds of Roses. Orna-
mental plants grown in pots are
sometimes supported by single rods
of wood, or of iron or wire, and
sometimes by small frames either of
wood or iron. These frames may
either be flat and of equal breadth
from the surface of the pot up-
wards; or they may be widest at
top, Which suits most sorts of climb-
ers ; or they may be made in the
form of cones, pyramids, inverted
cones, or balloon-like shapes, at

a a

PROPS.

255

PROPS.

pleasure. A very common form for
such plants as Trope'oluin penta-
phillum, T. tricoldrum, and T.
brachgceras, is that of an elongated
fan; and another is that of a shield-
like figure with the narrow end at

FIG. 42.—PROPS FOR CLIMBERS,

the pot. In general, all plants grown
in pots should have the support of
a regular or symmetrical shape ;
and all those grown in beds or bor-
ders, such as Sweet Peas, the Com-
mon Tropeolum (Nasturtium), the
Searlet Runner, &c., should have
small branchy stakes inserted in the
soil in a regular manner, so as never
to appear the work of chance or of
carelessness, but of art and careful
design. Climbing Roses may either
be supported by training against
walls or trellis-work, or on single
rods, with expanding parasol-like
tops of wire-work ; or they may be
supported on cones or pyramids of
rods or poles. The stronger-grow-
ing climbing Roses, which attain
the height of twenty feet, or hess -fsapliaailhies: agile.

feet, or upwards, such as the double
Ayrshire Rose, the Rose de Lisle,
the Boursault, R. Grevillii or the
Seven Sisters, Noisettes, &c., may
be supported on cones or pyramids,
two feet or three feet in diameter
at the ground, and rising to the
height of twenty feet, formed of
the stems of young Fir-trees tied
together ; tender Roses, on the
other hand, such as R. Banksie, and
the Musk Rose, require to be trained
against walls. Props for border-
flowers are generally small rods
painted green, and made by split-
ting the laths “used by plasterers or
by carpenters from deal boards ;

but they may be straight rods of
hazel, or some such wood, with the
bark on. The object of using the
rods of this kind is to render the
props less conspicuous. The prin-
ciple to be taken as a guide is, that
the rod should always be subor-
dinate to the plant to be supported
by it, or trained on it. If this
principle be kept constantly in view,
few glaring errors will be committed
either in forming supports for plants
in pots, or for plants in the open
ground. Hence walls on which
plants are to be trained should
never be built of bright red brick,
or very white stone ; or if they are
plastered, the colour should always
be of a subdued kind. Some plants
are trained up rods or cones for the
sake of producing flowers; and
others, such as Ivy, when trained
up an erect rod with an umbrella-
like top, for the sake of producing
shade. When the object is flowers
during the whole extent of the
plant, the prop should always be
wider at the base than at the top,
in order that the foliage may enjoy
the direct influence of the sun and
of perpendicular rains during its
whole extent ; and this may easily
be effected by fixing a pole in the

PROPS.

256

PROTEA.

ground with short sticks in the top,
to which chains, ropes, or wires
may be affixed, up which the plants
may be trained. When the flowers
are chiefly to be produced at the

_ top, and the object of the stem is

merely to elevate the top to a con-
siderable distance from the ground,
then the latter must spread over
the former as much as may be de-
sirable for the sake of effect. In like

_ mmanner, when the object is shade,

or the covering of a summer shelter

_ or bower, the stems may be trained

upright and may be shaded to any
extent by the head.
Wire frames for training plants

| in pots are generally painted green,
_ for the same reason as the props.
_ In supporting large flowers, such as

Dahlias, or shrubs, such as standard
Roses, in the open garden, stakes of
cast or wrought iron are frequently
used, and the colour they are painted
is almost always green, though a
dark-brown colour, or some tint

_ nearer that of the bark of rods, say

those of the ash or hazel, would
undoubtedly be in better taste.
Twining plants, such as the Con-
volvulus, are frequently encouraged
to twine round cords made fast at
the root of the plant at one end,
and to a wall, horizontal rail, or
some other fixed point or line at
the other. Very handsome screens
may be formed in this manner, and
also very agreeable figures, provided
care is taken that the figure shall
not be much broader at the summit
than it is at the base. An obelisk,
a column, a cone, a pyramid, ora
cross, in an open airy situation,
may be covered so as to produce a
very striking effect. Arcades and
covered ways, formed of framework
of wood or wire, may be covered
with creepers of every description,

externally, and the advantage to

the spectator walking beneath is
shade alone. When shade and the
beauty of the flowers are to be both
enjoyed by the spectator in a covered
walk, the covering ought to be pro-
duced by arches placed at regular
distances, so as to admit of the air
and light between, by which means
the plants will be covered with
flowers from the ground to the
crown of the arch. The arches may
either cross the walk at right
angles, or they may cross each
other, so that the vertical profile of
every two arches would form a
cross.

Trees, after they have grown for
some years, frequently lean to one
side, especially such trees as the
Judas tree, the Mulberry, the Pin-
aster, and even the Laburnum.
These require props to set them
upright, and the kind requisite for
this purpose is a wooden prop forked
at the extremity. In like manner,
the branches of trees sometimes
split, or for other reasons hang
down, soas to incommode the path
or the surface beneath ; and in this
case the branches require to be tied
together by iron rods.

Pro‘TEa. — Protedcee. — Singu-
lar-looking plants, natives of the
Cape of Good Hope, which are very
difficult to cultivate, as their roots
are fleshy and very apt to be in-
jured either by a want of water or
an excess. They must also have
abundance of light and air, and not
be crowded with other plants. They
should be grown in pots nearly half
filled with potsherds, in light turfy
loam, mixed with equal parts of
fine silver sand, and placed in a
greenhouse. Great care must be
taken in shifting them when they
require larger pots, as their roots

ligneous or herbaceous; but the are very brittle, and will be found

beauty of the flowers is only seen

| to have entwined themselves among

PROTECTING.

the potsherds, from which it is very
difficult to disengage them, and for
this reason the drainage should not
be disturbed, but transferred entire
with the ball of.earth to the new
pot. These plants are propagated
by cuttings taken off at a joint, and
planted in separate pots in sand,
under a glass, but not plunged in a
hotbed ; and the glass should be
frequently taken off and wiped, as
the cuttings are very apt to damp
off. »

PROTECTING TRELLISES. — In
some cases where half-hardy plants
are grown in the open garden they
are trained on trellis-work, with
a framework of coarse wood fixed
at the base of the trellis, so as to
form a kind of moveable pit over
it. In this frame sashes are placed
to shield the plants during cold
weather, and the whole apparatus,
except the trellis, is removed in
May or June, when the flower-buds
have formed. In this way some of
the finer kinds of Passion-flower,
the Allamandas, and other tender
climbing plants may be grown, ap-
parently in the open air.

Protecting. — As _half-hardy
plants, trained against a wall, are
frequently much injured by what
are called perpendicular frosts, a
thatched or wooden coping, project-
ing about two feet from the wall,
will be found of the most essential
service in protecting them. Sucha
coping, with a sprinkling of straw
or dead leaves over the roots, and
a hay-band twisted round the trunk
of the tree, about a foot from the
ground, will be sufficient to protect
even tender plants from all ordinary
frosts. Standard plants may have
straw or dead leaves laid over the
roots, or they may havea thatching
of straw attached to the trunk of
the tree, and sloping off widely at
the base. (See Toatcuine.) Other

25

7

coverings made of straw or rushes
plaited or sewed together, or of
osiers twisted like basket-work,

PRUNING.

FIG. 43.—WIRE FRAME.

‘may be used for smaller plants.

One of these may be a kind of
hurdle to protect plants against a
wall, others may be used to put
round the stems of young trees, and
to cover Tree Ponies and other tall
shrubs, with an opening on the side
next the sun, to admit the air and
prevent damp; and others are small
beehive-like covers for protecting
Geraniums or other greenhouse
plants in the borders. Sometimes
a slight wire frame is used, like
that shown in fig. 45, which may
be covered with a mat. A frame
of this kind is particularly useful
for the Tree Peony. For the modes
of protecting trees from the attacks
of cattle, see Sinene TREEs.
PRUNING ornamental trees and
shrubs is seldom practised to much
extent ; as all that is required is to
cut out the dead wood and to pre-
vent the shoots from growing out
of shape. To do this effectually,
every lady ought to be provided
with a pair of pruning-shears, (see
fig. 44) so contrived as to make
what is called a draw-cut, and thus |
not to bruise the wood or the bark
so as to prevent its uniting again
smoothly. The cut should also be
made slanting to a bud, so as not
to leave a piece of dead wood pro-
jecting beyond the young shoot,

_ rarely properly attended to.
| French instrument called a sécatewr

PRUNUS.

258

which has always a very bad effect.
Much of the beauty of a flower-
garden depends on removing the
dead Roses and other flowers as
soon as they fade, and also all the
dead or broken branches; but this
is a point of culture which is very

FIG. 44.—PRUNING SHEARS,

The

is only a somewhat larger and

| stronger pair of pruning shears.

Prunus. — Rosdcee.—The Plum.
Though the common plum-tree ranks
among fruit-trees, and as such is
not entitled to a place in the present
work, yet there are many species of
Prinus which may be considered as
some of our most ornamental shrubs,
Among these are P. cédndicans,
with woolly leaves and long clusters
of white flowers; P. Cocomilla, a
native of Italy; P. maritima, with
white flowers and dark blue fruit ;
and P.. divaricata, with white
flowers and yellow fruit. There
are many other ornamental shrubs
which are called Prinus in the
nurseries, but which botanists now
class in the genus Cre’Rasus. Among
these are the Mahaleb or Perfumed
Cherry, formerly called Prunus
Mahaleb; and the Bird Cherry,
which Linneus called Prinus

}

PUNICA.

Padus. All the kinds of Prinus

are quite hardy, and will grow in
any common soil.

Psr'p1umM. — Myrtadcee. — The
Guava. — Tropical shrubs, which
are generally grown in a stove in
England, but one kind of which,
Cattley’s Guava, will ripen fruit in
a greenhouse. In the West Indies
the fruit is used for making the
well-known Guava jelly. All the
kinds should be grown in loam and
peat, and they are all propagated
by layers.

PsorRa‘LEa. — Leguminise. —
Shrubby and herbaceous plants, of
easy culture, some of which require
a greenhouse in England. They
grow freely in loam and peat, and
are propagated by seeds or cuttings.
Most of the species are natives of
the Cape of Good Hope.

Pre'tea. — Terebinthacee. —
American shrubs, quite hardy in
British gardens, and ornamental
for the fine yellow which their leaves
take in autumn. They will grow
in any garden soil, and they are
multiplied by cuttings and layers.

Pre‘ris. — Filices. — Brake. A
very ornamental kind of Fern. For
the culture, see Ponypo’pruM.

Putmona'RIA. — Boraginee. —
Herbaceous plants with rather or-
namental flowers, natives of Europe
and America, which will grow in
almost any soil and situation.

Pu'ntca.—Granatacee or Myr-
tacee.—The Pomegranate is a very
handsome deciduous shrub or low
tree, which, in the climate of Lon-
don, thrives against a conservative
wall, and produces fruit which at-
tain their full size, though they but
seldom ripen. It also grows in
great luxuriance near Bath. The
fruit, which is of a globular shape,
and retains the calyx, has been ad-
mired for its form from the earliest
ages, and was one of the most con-

PYROS.

spicuous ornaments directed to be
used in the construction of Solo-
mon’s Temple. There is a double-
flowered variety, which, during the
seventeenth and eighteenth cen-
turies, was the most favourite plant
in Continental and British orange-
ries, next to the Orange and the
Lemon; and there is also a dwarf
double-fiowered variety, which,
when kept in a greenhouse, pro-
duces its fine vermilion flowers
from August to November. The

plant requires a dry loamy soil, a |

south wall, and an airy situation ;
and care should be taken in prun-
ing it not to cut out the small
lateral twigs or spurs, on which
alone the blossoms are produced,
which should be left projecting from

259

the wall. It strikes root freely from |

ripened cuttings and layers, and the
yellow and the white-flowered va-

common kind.
Pou’rsH1a.— Rosdcee. —A little

North American shrub, with small |

yellow flowers, which is quite hardy,
and should be grown in sandy peat.
Jt is propagated by layers.

PYRETHRUM. —Composite.—Fe- |

verfew.—Most of the species are
hardy perennials, which only require
planting in the open garden and the
usual treatment of perennial plants.
According to the last arrangements
of botanists, the Chinese Chrysan-
themums are now included in the
genus Pyréthrum.

Pyro'La. — Fricdcee,— Winter-
green. <A pretty little shrub, one
species of which, P. rotundifolia,
is found wild in Sussex.

Py’rus.— Rosdcee.—The Apple
and Pear Trees. The different kinds
of Crabs and Pears are very orna-
mental from their blossoms, inde-
pendently of the utility of the fruit
of some of the species. The orna-
mental kinds are all low trees,

| Crab or Wild Pear.

PYRUS.

admirably adapted for the lawn or
the shrubbery ; they are all of easy
culture in any common garden soil;
and they are propagated by grafting
the finer on the more common kinds.
To thrive and look well, however,
they require an airy situation, and
not to becrowded among other trees.
Most of the species, and especially
the Crabs, are very liable to be
attacked by insects in the leafing and
flowering seasons ; and they should
then be carefully watched, and the
caterpillars picked off as soon as
they are visible. Among the kinds
most worthy of notice, are the
following: Pyrus spectdébilis, the
Chinese Crab or Garland-fiowering
Wild Apple, producing the most
showy flowers of the whole genus in
May, and as hardy as the common
P. coronaria,

_the Sweet-scented Crab, with large
rieties are sometimes grafted on the |

and beautiful pink blossoms, highly
fragrant, as isthe first. P.c. angus-
tifolia, the narrow-leaved sweet-
scented Crab, with blossoms as beau-
tiful as the former, and with the
leaves sub-evergreen. This, and the
two preceding kinds, have the fruit
green when ripe and fragrant, but it
is not good to eat. Pyrus baccata
and P. prunifolia, the two kinds of
Siberian Crab, have very showy

blossoms, and small red or yellow

fruit, useful in cookery. These are
the principal ornamental species of
the Crab or Apple kind, unless we
except one, the Moscow or Trans-
parent Crab, Pyrus astracdnica,
which has fruit almost as large as
a golden Pippin, wax-coloured,
and almost transparent when ripe.
Though commonly cultivated for its
fruit, as useful for the table, it well
deserves a place on the lawn as an
ornamental plant, from the extra-
ordinary beauty of the Crabs. The
ornamental Pears are the follow-
ing : P. salvifolia, which has woolly

PYRUS.

leaves like those of the Sage, and,
like all the Pears, white flowers ;
this peculiarity, independently of
other marks, distinguishing them
from the Apples, which have always
reddish flowers; P. amygdalifor-
mis, which has silvery-white leaves,
and fruit shaped like that of the Al-
mond ; P. deaginifolia, which has
long narrow white leaves like those
of the Eleagnus ; P. salicifolia, with
long, narrow, silky leaves like those
of the Willow; and P. nivalis, which
has round leaves of a snowy white-
ness. All these species have small
green fruit, not good to eat ; but the
trees are most ornamental from their
shape and the singular colour of
their foliage. The following kinds
of Pyrus belong to the section of
A‘ria. P. A‘ria, the White Beam
Tree, and its varieties. P. A. an-
gustifolia and P. A. crética, are

| admired for the beauty of their

leaves, which are green above and
white beneath, and for the bright
scarlet fruit which they produce in
great abundance. PP. vestita, the
Nepal White Beam Tree, is a rare
and beautiful object, as its leaves,
which are clothed with a thick white
wool beneath, are ofa large size, and
die off in autumn of a most beautiful
pale-yellow. There are several other
ornamental species of Pyrus. P.va-
riolosa is remarkable for the varying
forms of its foliage, which is some-
times pinnate, like that of the Moun-
tain Ash, and sometimes deeply
lobed and cut, like that of the Haw-
thorn, or entire and cordate and
pointed, like that of the Pear. It
is somewhat tender, and thrives
best in a sheltered situation, or
against a wall. P. tormindlis, the
Griping Wild Service tree, is re-

_ markable for the beautiful form of
| its leaves, which, however, are un-

fortunately very apt to be eaten by
insects. The buds are large, of a

260

PYRUS.

beautiful green, and very ornamen-

la

tal in the winter season. Pyrus
aucuparia, the Mountain Ash, is a
well-known small tree, beautiful
both when in flower and in fruit,
and worth cultivating for its foliage
alone. Pyrus americana, the Ame-
rican Mountain Ash, resembles the
common sort, but has larger leaves
and smaller fruit, though it is of a
much deeper red. Pyrus Sérbus,
the common Service Tree, has foliage
like that of the Mountain Ash, but
larger ; and the fruit resembles that
of the common Pear, but much
smaller, and not ornamental though
it is eatable. Pyrus spiria, a
native of Kamtschatka, has leaves
like the Elder, and small black fruit :
the leaves of this species die off in
autumn of an intensely deep-purple,
which is almost black. There is a
pendulous variety, P. s. péndula,
which is one of the most ornamental
of drooping branched small trees ;
and, as neither the variety nor the
species exceed twelve or fifteen
feet in height, they are admirably
adapted for small gardens.

The following kinds of Pyrus are
shrubs, and very ornamental, both
for their fruit and flowers: P. ar-
butifolia, which has white flowers
and black fruit, and the leaves of
which become of a beautiful red in
autumn ; there are six or eight
varieties, commonly treated as spe-
cies: P. Chameeméspilus, which has
large white flowers and red or black
fruit; and P. floribéimda, which
grows about four feet high, and
sends down weeping branches all
round, which are covered with such
a profusion of white flowers during
the flowering season, that the plants
look like a hillock covered with
snow. Theselast-mentioned shrubby
kinds are sometimes called Ar6nia.
Pyrus japonica, so well known for
its beautiful scarlet flowers, is now

QUERCUS.

removed to the genus Cyddnia.
There is a variety with pink and
white flowers. All the kinds be
longing to the genus Pyrus are
quite hardy, and will grow freely in
any common garden-soil, and they
may all be raised from seeds, or
grafted on the Wild Crab, or Wild
Pear, or on the Hawthorn, which,
though belonging to the genus
Cratz'gus, is very nearly allied to
Pyrus.

UAKING-GRASS.—See Brr'za.
Quassra. — Simarubacee. —
Stove shrubs, natives of the Hast
Indies, the bark, wood, and root of
which are so intensely bitter, that
an extract from the bark of some of
the species is used as a substitute
for hops in making beer, and also
as a poison for flies and aphides.
Q. amdra is very ornamental from
its long upright racemes of bright
scarlet flowers, the petals of which
are curiously twisted together. The
plants flower freely, if allowed
plenty of heat. They should be
grown in loam mixed with peat or
sand; aud they are propagated by
cuttings.
QUEEN’S NEEDLEWORK. — Spi-
rea salicifolia.—See Sprrz'a.
Qur’rcus.—Amentacee, or Cu-
pulifere.—The Oak.—The species
are chiefly forest trees, but Q. J’lez,
the evergreen Oak, and some of its
varieties, may be treated as shrubs,
and are very ornamental on lawns,
and in pleasure-grounds. Some of

the kinds of the Turkey Oak, Q. Cér- |

ris, are also very eiusmgetal par-
ticularly Q. C. Lucombeana, which
grows rapidly and forms a very
handsome pyramidal tree. It ought,
however, to be purchased in pots,
as it produces but few lateral roots,
and seldom grows well if itis trans-

261

QUISQUALIS.

planted from the open ground. The
American Oaks are very handsome,
particularly for the colours their
leaves take in winter. Q. coccinea
and Q. rubra have deeply cut leaves,
which become of a beautiful red in
autumn; as do the leaves of Q. pa-
léstris, which are more elegantly
shaped than those of any of the
other kinds. Some of the dwarf
American Bear Oaks, such as Q.
Banistert and Q. ilicifolia, do not
grow above two or three feet high ;
and they are called Bear Oaks,
because in their native countries
the bears can eat their acorns,
without climbing.

QuINCE.—See Crpo’nra.

Quincunx.—A mode of planting
trees in rows, by which the plants
in one row are opposite the spaces in
the next ; so as to form a succession
of diamonds,—See fig. 45.

Of of /. 7
£f949

FIG. 45.—TREES IN QUINCUNX.

Quisqua Lis. — Combretacee. —
A stove climber, a native of the East
Indies, with singular flowers ; and
large and handsome leaves. The
flowers are shaped something like
those of the Jasmine, but with an
excessively long tube, and a very
small limb, which, when it first ex-
pands, is white, but which after-
wards becomes pink, getting darker
and darker, till it finally becomes of
a blood-red. The plant should be
grown in loam and peat, and it is
propagated by cuttings struck in
sand under a hand-glass.

RANUNCULUS.

AGGED ROBIN.—See Ly’cx-
NIS.

Racwort.—See OrHo’NNA ; and |

SENE’cIO.

Raxkr.—A well-known toothed |

implement for raking the surface of |

dry ground, or collecting together

grass on lawns which have been

mown, or weeds on surfaces which

the teeth or tines are lance-shaped,
sharp at the edges, and so close

over the surface of a lawn, they
collect or cut off the heads or flowers
of such plants as the Daisy, Crow-
foot, Plantain, &c.
rakes, or that part which contains
the teeth or tines, are of different
lengths, from six inches to two
feet ; and the teeth, which are placed
at from one inch to two inches
apart, are from two inches to four in
length. In raking dug soil with a
view to render the surface even and
fine, and also to collect stones, roots,
&e., the handle of the rake should
be held close to the middle of the
operator, so that the tines may pass
through the ground at an angle less
than 45°

of Daisies to be cut off, the handle
of the rake must be held above the

middle of the operator, so that the |

tines may form an angle with the
soil above 45°. In the latter case it
is desirable that the tines should
slide along the surface ; but in the |
former it is necessary that they |

| should penetrate into it throughout
| nearly their whole length.

Ranv’ncuLvus.— Ranunculacee.
—The Ranunculus.—The species |
may be divided into two kinds— |
border flowers, and florists’ flowers.
The latter consists of some hundreds |
of varieties obtained from the species |

262

have been hoed. There is also what |
is called the Daisy rake, in which |

together that when drawn or raked |

The heads of |

; but when weeds or short |
grass are to be raked up, or the heads |

RANUNCULUS.

Raninculus asidticus, a native of
the Levant with tuberous roots,
which is rather tootender to endure
_ the winter in the open air without
'some kind of protection. The wild
plant grows naturally in Persia, in
meadows which are moist during

winter and in the growing season,

_but dry during great part of sum-

mer. Hence one of the first requi-

sites in the culture of this flower
is a loamy soil kept moist; and
as the varieties are all double and
in a highly artificial state, the soil
requires to be made very rich with
leaf-mould, or the mould of hot-
/bed dung. The common season for
planting the Ranunculus is Novem-
ber ; the roots may be placed about
six inches apart every way, covered
with two inches of soil, and pro-
tected by straw, mats, or rotten
tan, during severe frosts. The plants
| will come into flower in July, and

-when the leaves wither, the roots

may be taken up, dried in the shade,

and preserved in a dry place til

they are wanted for replanting. A

great many named kinds may be

procured in the seed-shops, the most
distinct of which are the Turban, or
very dark red, the orange, the
white, and the fine or cut-leaved.

As the plant seeds freely even when

semi-double, new sorts without end

may be raised from seed which may
be sown in pots or flat pans as soon

'as it is gathered and placed in
a cold frame. The common mode

_of propagating the Ranunculus is by
separating the offsets from the larger
roots.

The common kinds of Ranunculus
are British weeds; but there are
several border flowers belonging to
this family which are well deserving
of cultivation, and of which the
| following are the most remarkable :
R. aconitifolius, the white-flowered
_Bachelor’s Button, an old inhabitant

OOO

REAUMURIA.

26

Jo

24

) RESERVE-GROUND.

of British gardens, prolific in double
white flowers in May and June, and
very ornamental; FR. dcris jlore
pléno, the double-flowered yellow
Bachelor’s Button, which flowers in
June or July, is also a very desira-
ble plant ; as-are R. répens jlore
pléno and R. bulbdsus jflore pleno,
both producing fine yellow double
flowers in May and June. A. cor-
tuseefolius is handsome both for its
foliage and flowers ; and R. rutcefo-
lius is a low plant well adapted for
pots or rock-work, producing abun-
dance of pretty white flowers from
May toJuly. &. platagineus is very
handsome, with glaucous lanceolate
leaves, and white flowers produced
in April; and R. gramineus, of
which there is a double-flowered
variety, with many others, are very
handsome and desirable species.

RaPHIO’LEPIS. —Rosdcece. — The
Indian Hawthorn. — Very elegant
shrubs, natives of China with white
flowers, the centre of which is red ;
the bark is also reddish ; and there
is a reddish tinge in the leaves. The
species are only half-hardy in Eng-
land, and they are generally kept
in the greenhouse though they will
grow in the open air against a con-
servative wall. The soil in which
they are grown should be a very
sandy loam, or loam mixed with
peat ; and they are propagated by
cuttings of the ripe wood struck in
sand under a bell-glass.

REAUMU'RIA. — Ficoidew. — A
very pretty little shrub, with fleshy
leaves, and bright purple flowers,
very suitable for rock-work. It
should be grown in peat and loam,
or in heath-mould, in rather a dry
situation ; as it is very liable to
damp off if grown in a moist situa-
tion in the shade. It prefers a
warm sunny bank, where it flowers
abundantly, and is very orna-
mental,

RED CepsR.—-See JUnI/PERUS.

RENANTHE RA. — Orchidacee. —
The Chinese Air-plant. —A very
handsome genus of the East Indian
Orchideous Epiphytes. It is a true
parasite, and never flowers well in a
pot. Itisaclimbing plant; but it
differs from all other climbers in
attaching itself to surrounding ob-
jects by its long fleshy roots which
it twines round any post or column
within its reach, as other plants do
their tendrils. Though the most
glowing accounts had been received
of the splendour of the flowers of
the Renanthéra in China, it did not
appear likely to realise these de-
scriptions in England; and it was
cultivated in this country for above
ten years, before it formed a single
spike of flowers. At last the in-
genious expedient was devised of
wrapping the long flexible roots
round with moss, and keeping this
moss constantly moist, and the result
was, thatthe plant grew ten feetlong,
and produced several spikes varying
from two feet to three feet in length,
of brilliant scarlet flowers. It is now
generally grown on pieces of wood
with the bark on, hung from the
rafters near a column of the stove,
or orchideous house, round which
the long roots are suffered to en-
twine themselves, care being. taken
to wrap them in moist moss as they
elongate themselves ; and it is found
that the plant flowers as freely as
any other orchideous Epiphyte grown
in Britain.

REsE‘DA. — Resedacee, — There
are many species of this genus, most
of which are natives of the south of
Europe and Egypt; but those best
known in England are Reseda Lute-
ola, the Dyer’s-weed, which is a
British plant; and RR. ddordta,
for the culture of which, see Mic-
NONETTE.

RESERVE-GROUND, — In every

RESERVE-GROUND.

264

RHAMNUS.

garden, accidents, diseases, and
many other causes, occasion blanks
or deformities in beds and borders,
and the use of a reserve-ground is to
contain a number of growing plants
that at a moment’s notice can be
taken up and planted in the place
of those which have ceased to be
ornamental or desirable. Wherever
there is a greenhouse, it can hardly
be kept in high order without a pit
or frame in the reserve ground
for striking cuttings, and bringing
forward plants to supply the place
of those which are no longer orna-
mental in the greenhouse ; and par-
ticularly for forcing bulbs and
bringing forward annuals, such as
Balsams, Schizénthus, &c., which
are exceedingly ornamental when in
flower, but without showy foliage
at every other season. The reserve-
ground, therefore, in point of ex-
tent, must bear some relation to the
extent and the character of the
garden which itis intended to supply.
The smallest residence should have
a few square yards of reserve ground,
including a pit, in an open airy
situation, but concealed from the
ornamental parts of the grounds ;
and residences of twenty or thirty
acres in extent, will require several
pits, and the sixth or fourth part
of an acre as reserve-ground. Where
there is a wailed kitchen-garden,
the reserve-ground may very con-
veniently be placed adjoining the
frame or forcing-ground or form
part of it; and in places so small
as to have no kitchen-garden, a
concealed glade, open to the south,
with or without a small pit or frame,
will still be necessary. The grand
points respecting a reserve-ground,
which it is desirable to impress on
an amateur gardener, are, first that
a reserve-ground, including a pit,
however small it may be, is essen-

‘every plot of garden-ground, even

those in front of street-houses, and
of every garden of plants in pots,
even those kept on window-sills and
in balconies; secondly, that the re-
serve-ground must be in an open,
airy situation, not shaded by trees ;
thirdly, that the herbaceous plants
planted in the open ground in the
reserve-garden, must be taken up
with balls of earth, and replanted
twice or thrice a year, and the
shrubs once a year; and fourthly,
that where there is a choice of soil,
that of the reserve-ground should
be of a loamy nature, such as will
adhere to the roots of the plants,
and never of sand, which will drop
away from them. Where there is
no reserve-garden, there is no pos-
sible way by which even a street-
garden, or the pots on a window-
sill, can be kept always in the highest
order, but by having recourse to
the commercial gardener.

REsT-HARROW.—See Ono'NIs.

Raam'nus.— Riamnacee. —The
Buckthorn.— Handsome deciduous
and evergreen shrubs; some of
which almost attain the size and
appearance of small trees, and others
are procumbent shrubs only fitted
for rock-work. They are all, how-
ever, distinguished by a stiff upright
manner of growth, and numerous
strong thorns, from which they
derive their name of Buckthorn.
The flowers are generally small and
not ornamental, but the berries are
very much so; and the evergreen
kinds are very valuable in shrub-
beries, from their hardiness and
free habit of growth. The Alatér-
nus (Rhadmnus Alatérnus) is par-
ticularly valuable, because it bears
coal-smoke and the confined air of
towns better than most other ever-
greens.

Rhémnus Catharticus, the Purg-

tial to the keeping in high order of | ing Buckthorn, is a deciduous shrub

RHIPSALIS.

with large handsome leaves and
showy berries. These berries when
unripe are used in making a yellow
dye, and they are sold for this pur-
pose in the colour shops, under the
name of French berries; when ripe,
their juice, mixed with alum, forms
what is called sap-green; and if
they are suffered to hang on the
trees till autumn, their juice be-
comes purple. The Avignon berries,
also used in dyeing yellow, are the
fruit of R. infectorius, which is a
native of France, near Avignon.
R. saxdtilis, the Stone Buckthorn,
which is a deciduous recumbent spe-
cies, is a valuable plant for rock-
work, or for clothing rocks or old
walls, where it is desirable to give
a wild and natural appearance to
the scenery; and R. Lrythroaylon,
the Red-wooded Buckthorn, is very
ornamental as a tufted bush among
rocks near water. R. Frdngula,
and R. latifolius, are low trees.
All the species are quite hardy,
and will grow in any common gar-
den soil, and in any situation that
is tolerably dry; and they are all
easily propagated by seeds and
layers.

Rue’x1A.— Melastomacece.—Her-
baceous and shrubby plants, natives
of America. J. virginica, which
is the handsomest species, is quite
hardy in peat earth, in a moist situ-
ation, and it produces its showy
pink or rather rose-coloured flowers,
with conspicuous yellow stamens, in
July and August. The leaves are
strongly ribbed, as in all the Melas-
tomaceze, and slightly edged with
pink. The shrubby species are
more tender than the herbaceous
ones, and they are generally kept
in a greenhouse.

Rur’PsaLis.—Cdctee.—Very cu-
rious succulent plants, which are
natives of both the East and West
Indies. As the Opuntias may be

265

RHODANTHE,

said to be all leaves, and the differ-
ent kinds of tree Céreus all stem,
so the Rhipsalis may be considered
all branches ; for the whole plant
consists of a series of short round
articulated branches, spreading in
all directions. The flowers of this
genus differ from those of the Cacti
generally, in being small and not
very handsome. They are generally
yellow. The species should all be
grown in brick-rubbish and sandy
loam, and they should have very
little water. The cuttings must be
dried by laying them on a shelf for
two or three days before they are
planted.

RHoDA’NTHE. — Compésite. —A
beautiful little annual plant, a na-
tive of the Swan River, whence its
seeds were imported by Captain
Mangles, who so well merits the
gratitude of every lover of flowers
for the numerous beautiful plants
which he has been the means of
introducing. The Rhodanthe is
generally treated as a half-hardy
annual, being sown on a hotbed in
February and planted out in May;
but it may he grown to an enor-
mous size by the following treat-
ment. The seed must be sown the
first week in April, in a soil com-
posed of three parts of heath-mould
and one of loam; and the young
plants pricked out the first week in
May into small thumb-pots or six-
ties, filled with a similar soil. In
a week’s time they should be shifted
into pots a size larger ; they should
then be suffered to remain a fort-
night, after which they should be
again shifted into larger pots and
the blossom-buds pinched off. The
shifting may be repeated five or six
times, always pinching off the blos-
som-buds, till the plants have at-
tained a large size and shrubby
character, which will generally be
about the middle of August, and

| tive wall.

RHODOCHITON.

when they may be permitted to
flower. A plant which had been
treated in this manner, and which
was given to me by Captain Mangles,
measured a foot and a half high and
four feet in circumference ; it had
above a thousand blossoms on it
expanded at one time, and it con-

tinued producing a succession of |

flowers from August to the middle
of November.

Ruopr'oLa. — Crassulacee. —
Rose-root.—There are only two spe-
cies of this genus, one of which isa

| British plant, strongly resembling

the House-leek, with a thick fleshy
root, smelling so much like a Rose
as to have given the name to the
genus. The flowers are yellow and

| terminal. The plant is a perennial,

and should be grown in a moist
situation on rock-work.
Ropocui'ton. —Scrophulérine.
—R. volibile, formerly called Lo-
phospérmum Rhodochiton, is a
Mexican climbing plant, with abund-
ance of very handsome flowers. It

| was at first kept in the greenhouse,

but it is now found to flourish most

| in the open air, as it will not flower

well when its roots are confined. It
should be planted in spring, in a pit
about two feet square, formed in the

open border, and filled with loamy
soil, enriched with leaf-mould or)

rotten manure. As the plant grows,

a little leaf-mould may be added |

from time to time over the roots ;

and the plant must be trained up a |

wire-frame, or against a conserva-
When it has done flower-
ing, it should be cut down to within
a few inches of the ground, and
covered with tan or saw-dust, and a
pot turned over it, the hole in the
pot being stopped up to exclude the
rain ; or, what is better, the plant
may be wrapped in moss and thus
protected. The species is propa-
gated by cuttings struck in spring

266

RHODODENDRON.

_or autumn, or by seeds sown on a
hotbed in February and planted out
‘in May. When wanted for a bal-
_ cony or greenhouse, it may be grown
in a pot, all that need be attended
to being to grow the plant in good
soil, and to allow it plenty of room
for its roots.

RHODODE’NDRON.— Ericacee.—
|The Rose Bay.—Well-known ever-
'green shrubs and low trees, with
| splendid flowers; which are gene-
rally grown in sandy peat, kept
rather moist. The hardy Rhodo-
'dendrons are mostly either natives
|of America, or hybrids raised in
| this country from them ; and hence,
‘the part of the garden in which
they are grown is generally called
| the American ground, and they are
classed with Azaleas, Kalmias, and
other plants of similar habit of
growth. Many kinds of Rhododen-
dron are, however, from the East,
and one of these, R. pénticum, is
| quite hardy, and hybridises freely
| with the American kinds. Of these
| last, Rk. maézimum, in America, at-
tains the height of twelve or fifteen
feet, but in England it neither
grows nor flowers freely. The leaves
are of a pale yellowish green, and
they generally look drooping, as
though the plant wanted water. It
is remarkable, that it was twenty
years in England before it produced
a single flower. In its native coun-
try it is always found growing upon
rocks near water; and it would
| probably thrive in a similar situa-
tion in this country. R. catawbiénse
is a hardy American species, which

|
|

flowers abundantly from June till

August. It seldom grows above
four feet high, but it forms a healthy-
looking bush, perfectly covered over
with flowers. The hybrids between
this species and the Nepal tree Rho-
dodendron are very handsome. Of
the tree Rhododendrons, the old

RHODODENDRON.

Nepal scarlet, R. arbéreum, grows
about twenty feet high, with im-
mense bunches of dark scarlet flow-
ers, which have a rich velvet-like
appearance. The flowers secrete
honey in such abundance that it
actually drops from the corollas.
The leaves are large and silvery be-
neath. The large white-blossomed
tree Rhododendron, R. cinnamé-

meum, has long narrow leaves, much
—_—D

wrinkled and ‘covered beneath with
a coarse shaggy reddish wool. The
flowers are generally white, but
there is a variety, the flowers of
which are rose-coloured., &. cam-
panulatum and R. Rollinséni, the
Ceylon scarlet, are also splendid
species ; but in 1850, Dr. Joseph
Hooker sent home a number of spe-
cies of the Himalaya Rhododendron,
which far surpass in size and beauty
of flower all that had hitherto been
introduced. All the species of Rho-
dodendron brought from the Hima-
layas are very ornamental, but none
are more so than R. Dathoisie,

which flowered for the first time
in England in March 1853. The
flowers are very large and fragrant,

when they open they are green;

they then change to yellow, and
afterwards become a pure white,
which in their native country is
tinged with rose-colour before the
flowers drop. The species in the
Himalayas is a straggling shrub
with a red papery bark, and bearing
its flowers and leaves only at the
extremity of each shoot ; and as it
grows in moist forests 9000 feet
above the level of the sea, it will
probably prove hardy in shady moist
places. . glawcum is another Hi-
malayanspecies, which will probably
prove hardy in this country. It is
a shrub about a foot high, pro-
ducing a great profusion of bell-
shaped pink flowers, which have a
resinous smell. 2. nivewm, also

26

-

‘ RHODODENDRON.

from the Himalayas, has large clus-
ters of lilac flowers, and takes its
name of nivea (snowy) from the
whiteness of the under side of the
leaves. In addition to these, other
Indian Rhododendrons have been
introduced—some shrubs of 10 feet
or 12 feet high, and others actually
Epiphytes, growing on the branches
of trees in Javaand Borneo. Some,
as £. Javanicum, have bright yel-
low flowers; others, as R. cilidtum,

R. Blanfordiceflorum, and R. Jas-
minifldorum, lose the form of the
Rhododendron flower ; while others, °
such as the old R. hirsitum and
R. ferrugineum are dwarf Alpine
rocks, clothing the sides of moun-
tains close to the regions of per-
petual snow. The principal dwarf
species are chrysanthum, with
yellow flowers, R. ferrugineum and
R. hirsutum, with rose-coloured
flowers, and R. caucdsicum, with
purple or white flowers. All these
scarcely exceed a foot in height, and
some of them are not more than six
inches. R. datricum is not a
dwarf plant ; but itis a low shrub,

with Azalea- like flowers of a pale-
lilac crimson, which are produced
from December till March, and the
flowers of the species appear before
the leaves, though there is a variety,
R. d. atrovirens, that is evergreen.

It is very ornamental, and it is
valuable from the early season at
which it flowers. All the Rhodo-
dendrons were at first supposed to
have crimson, scarlet, or white
flowers, and when one was raised
by a cross with a yellow Azalea
having yellowish flowers it was very
much admired. In 1847,. however,
the Rhododendrons already alluded
to were introduced from Java, with
brilliant yellow flowers, and fleshy
roots ; the plants themselves being
found growing not in the ground,
but on trees, which threw the pre-

=. |e

RHODORA.

268

viously known yellow Rhododen-
drons quite in the shade.

All the American Rhododendrons
are what are called hair-rooted
plants ; and they are all grown in
sandy peat, or in deep sandy loam.
They may also be grown even in
stiff clay, if it be kept moist; but
the worst soil for Rhododendrons is
that of a well-manured garden, par-
ticularly if the situation be a dry
one; as this kind of soil has not
tenacity enough to enable it to ad-
here to the fine hair-like roots of
these plants. All the Rhododen-
drons may be propagated by cuttings
of the young shoots, taken off while
they are in a growing state—by
layers, and by seeds. ‘The latter is
the most general mode, as the seeds,
which are very small, and look like
saw-dust, are ripened in great abun-
dance in the months of August and
September ; and the seeds of the
American kinds are imported every
year in large quantities from Ame-
rica. They are also now propagated
by budding in the open air. All
the Rhododendrons and Azaleas
may be removed at almost any sea-
son, and when of almost any size,
if taken up with a ball of earth
round the roots. The best seasons,
however, for removing them are
spring and autumn. It may be ob-
served that Rhododendron seed will
remain good for several years,
though, when practicable, it is best
to sow it as soon as it is ripe, as
the plants will come up much
sooner. All Rhododendrons should
be grown ina shady, moist situation,
and they will all thrive under the
drip of trees.

Ruopo'RrA.— Ericacee.—Rhodo-
ra canadénsis is a very pretty little
plant, a native of Canada, resem-
bling the dwarf Rhododendrons,
excepting that the flowers are much
smaller, and the leaves are decidu-

requires to be grown in peat earth,
kept moist. It flowers in the open
ground in April ; but it may easily
be forced by keeping it under glass,
and giving it a little heat, so as to
flower at Christmas.
Ruv’s.—Terebinthacee, or Ana-
cardiacece, —Sumach. — Deciduous
shrubs, natives of Europe, Asia, and
America, interesting from the beau-
tiful colours which their leaves as-
sume when dying off in autumn.
All the kinds are more or less poi-
sonous. his Cétinus, the Virgi-
nian Sumach, is called the Periwig
Tree both in French and German,
from the curious appearance of its
seed-vessels, which look like a pow-
dered wig. It is a very ornamental
shrub, often growing ten or twelve
feet high, and flowering abundantly.
It grows best in a dry loam, and it
is propagated by layers. Rhéis ty-
phina, the Stag’s-horn Sumach, has
received its name from the singular
appearance of the young shoots,
which are covered with a soft velvet-
like down, resembling that of a young
stag’s horn, both in colour and tex-
ture. The leaves are imparipinnate,
with eight or ten pairs of leaflets,
and they die off of a beautiful
purplish-red in autumn. The flowers
are produced in terminal spikes, and
they are succeeded by deep purplish-
red woolly fruit. Rhés g/abra, the
scarlet Sumach, has red flowers, and
rich velvet-looking dark - scarlet
fruit, which becomes crimson as it
ripens. Rhéis vernicifera, the Var-
nish or Japan Sumach, is a green-
house plant in England; but in
India and in Japan it is grown in
large plantations, for its gum, which
issues from the tree when wounded,
and forms the finest varnish in the
world. Rhts venendta, the Swamp
Sumach, or Poison-wood, has so
virulent asap that it occasions fever

RIBES.

and inflammation in those who cut

it down. Even touching the plant,
or smelling it, will in many cases
produce eruptions and swellings all
over the body. The plant is not
very handsome, but the leaves be-
come of a brilliant red in autumn.
R. Coridria, the Elm-leaved Su-
mach, and &. copallina, the gum-
copal tree, resemble R. typhina ;
and R. radicans, the poison-oak,
and R. Toxicodéndron, the poison-
vine, are poisonous plants, natives
of North America, resembling R.
venendta. All the kinds of Rhis
are of easy culture in any loamy
soil; and they may be all propagated
by cuttings or layers. Several of
the kinds may have their branches
pegged down, and a little earth
strewed over them, when they will
strike root.

Rippon Grass.—Arindo Donax
var. versicolor.

Ri'ses.—Grossulacee.—The Cur-
rant.— The ornamental kinds of
Ribes which have been introduced
into British gardens since the com-
mencement of the present century,
are now some of our most beautiful
shrubs. They are all quite hardy,
and will grow without any trouble
being taken with them, in any com-
mon garden-soil. The following
kinds are those most deserving of
cultivation for their flowers :—Ribes
niveum, the snowy-flowered goose-
berry, has white pendulous flowers,
and dark purple fruit, the flavour
of which is very agreeable; R. spe-
ctosum, the Fuchsia-flowered goose-
berry, has scarlet flowers, with very
long projecting stamens, somewhat
resembling those of the Fuchsia,
and the leaves sub-evergreen; R.
spicatum, the tree-currant, which
forms an erect fastigiate-growing
shrub, six or eight feet high, with
upright spikes of red fruit; R. mul-
tifldrum, amost beautiful plant, has

269

RIBES.

long drooping racemes of greenish

flowers, and large handsome leaves;
R. punctatum, an evergreen species,
has shining leaves and golden yellow
flowers, which are succeeded by red
fruit; R. fliridum, the flowering
black currant, has loose racemes of
greenish-yellow flowers, and black
fruit; R. céreum, the wax-leaved
currant, has leaves which are nearly
round, and appear thinly covered
with white wax; R. sanguinewm,
the red-flowered black currant, is a
beautiful and well-known species,
of which there are several varieties ;
and R. atéreum, is the yellow-flow-
ered black currant. All these kinds
are very beautiful; but the most
ornamental are Ribes sanguineum,
and its varieties or allied species,
R. glutindsum, with pale-pink flow-
ers, and R. malvacewm, with lilac
ones, and also the dark-red variety,
R. s. atro-ribens. R. subvestitum,
has dark-purple flowers. It is a
native of California. There are also
several kinds of R. awrewm, all of
which are well deserving of cultiva-
tion. All the kinds of Ribes are
easily propagated by cuttings, or by
seeds, which most of the kinds ripen
in abundance; and one kind, Aibes
punctatum, sends up suckers. They
are generally quite hardy ; and R.
punctatum, being a native of Chili,
succeeds best against a wall. AR.
sanguineum, and its allied species,
are natives of California, and, like
all the plants from that country,
they are very liable to die off, if the
collar of the root be exposed to the
sun. Thus, a fine healthy plant of
Ribes sanguineum, several feet high,
and covered with flowers, will often
wither and die away without any
apparent cause; but if the facts
connected with it be closely exam-
ined, it will generaily be found that
the ground in which the plant grows
has become quite dry and powdery

|

RICINUS. 270 ROBINIA.

at the surface, so that the roots | ma Christii—The Castor-oil plant,

_ have been exposed to sufficient heat | Ricinus communis, is a half-hardy

_ tion with the collar.
_ occurs when the plant is suffered to

to wither them at the point of junc- | annual in this country, worth
This never | growing for its splendid leaves and

very curious flowers and seed-pods ;
remain in a state of nature, as it | but in the East Indies it becomes a
always sends out side shoots near | tree. The oil is expressed from the
the ground, so as to shade its root; | seeds. When grown in England,

but in gardens and shrubberies these |,

side shoots are frequently trimmed
away, from a mistaken idea of neat-
ness. In its native country, also,
the Ribes sanguineum always grows

_ partly in the shade, and near water.
The colour of the flowers varies very |

much according to the soil in which
the plant is grown; the darkest and
brightest hues being observable in
those plants which are grown in cal-
careous soils, and the palest and
least brilliant in those grown in
sandy soils. ibes atrewm, the
yellow - flowered currant, and its
allied speeies and varieties, succeed

| best in gravelly soils, and appear in

general very hardy.
Rice.—See Oryza.
RicE-PAPER PLant.—Ardlia pa-

| pyrifera.—There are now several

specimens of this very curious plant
at Kew, where one flowered in a
damp stove in December, 1855, but
did not produce fruit. In its native
country, China, itisrepresented ‘‘as
being seven feet high, with a cir-
cumference of its terminal branches
of twenty feet, and throwing out
twelve or fourteen panicles three
feet long, drooping like magnificent
plumes, in regular form, over the
dark palmate leaves.” The stem
is three, or at most four, inches in
diameter, forming very little wood,
but filled with the most exquisitely
white pith, of which the famous
rice paper of China is made.

the seeds should be sown in a slight
hotbed in February, and the young
| plants removed to the open border
in May. It should be grown in
light rich soil, well manured with
| decayed leaves, and in a situation
open to the sun.
Rico'11a.—Crucifere.—A very

Inmaria, which only requires sow-
ing in the open border in April.—
See ANNUALS.

Ripeine.—Throwing up ground
in ridges, in order to expose it more
thoroughly to the action of the wea-
ther. This operation is most useful
in clayey soils, as the water freezing
separates the particles of the clay,
and lightens the soil; and it is per-
formed by opening a trench, and
throwing up the ground so as to
form a kind of hillock sloping on
both sides. :

Rosr’nia.—-Leguiundse.—-Orna-
mental trees and shrubs, with long
drooping racemes of flowers. The
common kinds of Robinias are
generally called Acacias in gardens;
though why this name has been

_given to them, unless from their
| pinnate leaves, which resemble those
of the true Acacia, it would be diffi-
cult to say. The name of Locust,
which is applied to the Robinia
Psead-Acacia in America, also ap-
pears to have no definite meaning,
unless it alludes to the leaves, which
bear a very slight resemblance to

Ricua’rp1a.-Aroidew.—-Kunth’s | those of the Ceratonia siliqua, the

name for Calla ethipica.
culture, &c., see A‘RUM.

For the | Locust tree of Holy Writ.

The
flowers of all the kinds of Robinia

Ricinus.—Luphorbiacee.—Pal-' are very handsome ; but the arbor-

pretty little annual nearly allied to

ROCK ROSE.

271

escent species are not handsome
trees, from the liability of their
branches to be broken off by high
winds, which gives them a ragged
and untidy appearance; and the
wood, notwithstanding all the very
extravagant praises of Cobbett, is
of very little value. The roots of
the Robinia also extend just under
the surface ; and thus a tree of this
genus occupies nearly twice the ex-
tent of ground which would be taken
up by a tree of the same size of
almost any other kind. The shrubby
kinds of Robinia are also liable to

the same objections; though the |
long racemes of rose-coloured flowers |

of the Rose Acacia (2. hispida) are
so beautiful, that no shrubbery
should be without it. All the Ro-
binias are quite hardy, and they
may be grown in any soil, though
they thrive most in a rather rich
sandy loam ; care should be taken
always to plant them in a sheltered
situation, as no plants are more
injured by high winds. They are
propagated by seeds, layers, cut-
tings, and suckers, which are pro-
duced in great abundance. When
Robinias are raised from seed, the
seeds should be steeped for twenty-
four hours in hot water before sow-
ing ; as, unless this is done, they
will sometimes remain in the soil
two years before they germinate.
When grown in strong clay, or in
any moist soil, old trees of Robinia
Psetid-Acacia are very often found,
when cut down, to be hollow at the
heart. Several plants, formerly
considered to belong to Robinia, are
now distributed through the genera
Caragana, Halimodéndron, &e. Of
these, the most beautiful are the
Caraganas, and the Halimodéndron,
or Salt Tree.

Rocket.—See Hz’sPERIs.

Rock Cress.—A kind of A’rabis.

Rock Rosz.—See Cr'stvus.

ROCK-WORK.

RocK-WoRK is a very common
ornament in gardens; and, pro-
ducing a striking effect, it is intro-
duced more frequently than judi-
ciously. Rock-work may be divided
into two kinds ; that which is in-
tended to imitate natural rocks, and
that which is intended merely as a
nidus for rock-plants. Imiiations
of nature should always consist of
large blocks of stone of the same
kind, and should, for the most part,
be disposed in imitation of some
kind of stratification. At the same
time, as in many paris of the coun-
try, large, round, or roundish, or
angular blocks of stone are found
distributed over the surtace, it is
not objectionable to collect these to-
gether in groups so as to form a
feature in scenery, and to insert
plants among them. Rock-work, as
a mere nidus for plants, should
never be attempted on a large scale
without the introduction of large
blocks of stone, and some kind of
stratification being adopted ; and in
this case, as before mentioned, using
one kind of stone will produce an
effect in accordance with that of
nature. On a small scale, however,
different kinds of stone may be used,
more especially when these are well
covered with plants ; but even on a
small scale, one kind of stone has
always a better effect, and will be
felt more agreeable to the eye, than
a mixture of bricks, flints, pieces
of granite, freestones, and perhaps
marble, shells, fragments of carved
stone, and even roots, which are
not unfrequently seen in even the
best gardens. Rock-work should

always be an independent feature.
It rarely looks well when piled up
against a wall or around the roots
of a tree, or in any situation where
it is overshadowed by trees; in
short, where it does not form the
prominent feature in the scene.

It

ROELLA.

looks well near water, and merging

_ into it, or in an open airy garden,

where it is surrounded by a gravel-
walk ; but it does not look so well
when rising from turf, without an
adjoining walk, or when large shrubs
grow up among the stones. Where
there are collections of such plants
as Saxifrages or other Alpines, or of
Cistuses, Helianthemums, or other
mountain shrubs, rock-work is very
desirable ; and in such cases it may
be placed on a lawn, asa feature in
a general collection of herbaceous
plants or shrubs, arranged according
to the Natural System ; but rock-

| work as an ornamental object, or as

a nidus for a miscellaneous collection
of plants, should always be in an

| open airy situation near a pond, or

surrounded by a walk. In short, it

| may be laid down as a general prin-

ciple, that rock-work should either
adjoin gravel or a piece of water ;

272

RONDELETIA.

Cape plants, generally with blue
flowers, which have somewhat of
the dazzling glossy hue of Venus’s
Looking-glass. The shrubby kinds
are of low growth, and rather dif-
ficult to propagate ; but the annual
species are of very easy culture,
and only require the usual treat-
ment of half-hardy annuals.—See
ANNUALS.
RoME'RIA.—Papaveracee,—The
Purple Horned Poppy.—This is a
very beautiful flower, but, unfortu-
nately, its beauty is so very short-
lived that it is difficult to find a

| perfect flower, as one or two of its

petals drop almost as soon as the
flower expands. It is quite hardy,
and only requires to have its seeds
sown in the open border in April.
Rouiinc.—Gravel walks cannot
be kept in proper order without
frequent rolling, and this rolling is
most efficacious when the ground is

and that it should seldom or never | moist below, but the upper surface is

One of the most common faults in
rock-work is the indiscriminate

| mixture together of all sorts of

stones, bricks, shells, fragments of
statuary or sculpture, and even

_ roots of trees; which latter objects,

though very suitable as receptacles
for plants, should always be ar-
ranged in masses apart from any
intermixture of stones.—See Roor-
WORK.

RODRIGUE'Z1A. — Orchidacee.—
Orchideous Epiphytes, natives of
tropical South America. RR. se-
cinda has beautiful pink flowers,
but the other species have generally
drooping racemes of greenish-yellow
flowers, more graceful than posi-
tively beautiful. All the kinds
should be grown in moss, and they
all succeed better on wood than in
pots.—See OrncuipEovs EpipHyTEs.

Ror’Lia. — Campanulacee. —

| adjoin trees or grass, or walls or| dry. On this account the best time
_ buildings.

for rolling isa fine dry day after two
or three days’ rain ; and when rol-
ling is necessary in continued dry
weather, the walk should be pre-
viously watered. Turf should also
be rolled occasionally, to prevent its
surface from becoming uneven.
RonDELE'TIA. — Rubiacee. —
Beautiful stove plants, with white,
blue, or reddish flowers, natives of
the East and West Indies. JR. odo-
rata, which is the most common,
has terminal corymbs of scarlet
flowers greatly resembling those of
Izéra coccinea. Itshould be grown
in a moist stove, in peat, sand, and
loam, the pots being well drained
with potsherds and cinders. The
flowers are produced in great abun-
dance, and they are very fragrant
as well as beautiful. The species
with blue flowers, which was called
R. longiflora, requires similar treat-
ment. It is now called Hindsia.

ROOT-WORK.

Root-worxk. —The roots of trees,

273

ROOT-WORK.

gether so as to form seats, open or

and especially large roots including
the stool or base of the tree after
the trunk has been cut down to the
ground, may be combined together
in various ways, useful, ornamental,
or curious, in gardening. Two or
three large stools of trees grouped
together on a lawn, with mould and

‘plants placed in their interstices,

en

form a striking contrast to the
smoothness and high art displayed
on the general surface of the lawn.
The plants placed among the roots,
whether in pots concealed by mosses,
stones, or mould, or planted in soil,
should never be of indigenous kinds
common in the locality; for these
might be mistaken for weeds; but
of exotic kinds, such as Geraniums,
Petunias, Maurandyas, &c., or of
British or European alpines of small
size, neat foliage, and with brilliant
flowers. The idea to be kept in
view is, that of creating artificial
ornaments without much expense ;
and, therefore, the roots must never
appear to have been left where they
are, by carelessness or accident, but
placed by design, and with refer-
ence to the composition of which
they form a part. In many situa-
tions, conglomerations of roots, as
a receptacle for plants, are more
pleasing than conglomerations of
stones, because they display less
effort, and seem a more natural and
easy way of obtaining a nidus for
ornamental plants. Too much effort
and expense for attaining any object
is never altogether so satisfactory

as when the same object is obtained,

with ease and economy. Hence
rustic seats in a pleasure-ground,
and rustic vases, or other vessels for
containing plants, are more satisfac-
tory than cast-iron seats or marble
vases, unless indeed the latter are
connected with some building.
Roots may also be combined to-

covered huts, grotto-like structures,
and grotesque bridges ; and one ob-
ject for which they are particularly
suitable is for placing on the margin
of pieces of artificial water along
with trees, bushes or plants. A
smooth expanse of water, like a
smooth lawn, requires shade and
roughness to contrast with it, in
order to produce a striking effect ;
and roots at once supply both rough-
ness and shade. In placing them,
a part of the root should always be
covered by the water, and another
part by the soil ; and by planting a

| young tree or bush adjoining the |
| root, a double contrast is produced |

between the root, which gives the
idea of an aged tree long since felled
or dead, and the erect young shoot
which foretels a future tree.
shadow of the group so formed in
the water is a circumstance that
redoubles the interest.

Roots may be piled up, and con-
nected together by wooden pegs, so
as to form arches, arcades, or covered
ways, or grottoes, or other struc-
tures, for shelter or repose; the
interstices being filled in with moss
or heath, and the exterior being
thatched with heath, or the chips
or shavings from hoops, common in
counties which abound in coppice-
wood, such as Sussex. Roots also
may be piled up so as to form gro-
tesque fences, which are suitable
for certain situations and purposes.
A flower-garden in a wood or seques>
tered glen, surrounded by a fence
of this kind, has sometimes a strik-
ing effect ; and sometimes the area
of gravel before the entrance front
of a villa is separated from the lawn
by an irregular ridge of roots, varied
by greenhouse plants, with the pots
concealed.

A very common error in the use
of roots, is that of mixing them

The |

ROSA.

274

ROSA.

with stones in rock-work, which has |
been already pointed out.—See
Rock-WoRK.
Ro'sa. — Rosdcee. — The Rose-
tree. —Of all flowers none are more
beautiful than Roses ; and none bet-
ter reward the care of the culti-
vator. Roses are natives of Europe,
Asia, Africa, and America, but
none have yet been found in Austra-
lia, The number of Roses is al-
most incredible; above a hundred
distinct species have been described,
and there are above two thousand
named varieties to be procured in
the nurseries. In this chaos, all
that can be done in a work like the
present is, to give a slight sketch
of the different kinds of Roses grown
in British gardens, with a few par-
ticulars of the more remarkable
species. The best known and most
common kind of Rose is the Cab-
bage or Provence Rose (fdsa centi-
folia). This species is a native of
Eastern Caucasus, whence it was
| brought at a very early period.

There are more than a hundred
varieties of it; all very beautiful
and very fragrant, and all distin-
| guished by their close cabbage-like
form, the curving inwards of their
petals, and their slender footstalks,
which give a peculiarly graceful and
drooping appearance to the full-
blown flowers. The Moss Roses
are all varieties of the Cabbage.
All the Cabbage Roses may be
grafted standard high on Briars of
the common Dog-rose; and they all
require a richly-manured soil, and
an open situation. The French or
Provins Rose (Rdsa gallica) is a
compact erect-growing plant with
large open flat flowers borne on stiff
erect flower-stalks; thus forming
as strong a contrast as possible to
the Cabbage Rose. This Rose is

town of Provins, in the department
of the Seine-et-Marne, and also at
Fontenay-aux-Roses near Paris, for
the purpose of making conserve of
roses. There are more than a hun-
dred varieties of this Rose. The
French Roses do not require a rich
soil, and they are never grown as
standards. Rdsa damascéna, or
the Perpetual Rose, differs from R.
centifolia, in the large size of its
prickles, the greenness of its bark,
its elongated fruit, and its long re-
flexed sepals. There are above a
hundred varieties of these Roses,
the most beautiful of which is Lee’s
Perpetual, or the Rose du Roi.
These Roses are very fragrant, and
they continue blossoming till No-
vember. As the Perpetual Roses
are of very luxuriant growth, and
as they produce abundance of
flowers, they should be grown in
very rich soil, and their shoots not
cut in. Rdsa indica, the Chinese
or Monthly Rose, is the parent of
another large family of Roses, com-
prising upwards of two hundred
varieties and hybrids; the most
interesting of these are the Tea-
scented Roses, and the Noisettes.
The Tea-scented Roses are delicate
little plants, with large drooping
flowers, and they are supposed to be
hybrids between the common and
the yellow Chinese Roses; it is
generally considered that they are
rather tender, and that they should
be grown against a south wall in a
raised border composed of equal
parts of vegetable mould, light
loam, and sand ; but we have one
against the verandah of our house
at Bayswater, grafted on a common
Briar, and growing in the ordinary
garden soil, which is_ splendid.
Many cultivators take these Roses
up in November, and keep the roots

found wild in France, and it is | in a pot in a greenhouse, or laid in
| grown on a large scale near the little | mould in a shed, till spring, when

9

~_

ROSA.

they may be planted out again in
the open garden. The Noisettes
are supposed to arise from a hybrid
between the Chinese Rose and the
Musk Rose, raised by M. Philippe
Noisette, at Charleston, in North
America. This kind

flowerer, sixty or eighty flowers
having been produced in one cluster ;
it is admirably adapted for stan-
dards and for rose-pillars. There
are nearly a hundred different kinds
of Noisette Roses.

The climbing Roses are of four
different kinds: the Ayrshire, the
Evergreen, the Cluster-flowered,
and the Boursault. The Ayrshire
climbing Roses are all varieties of
R. arvénsis, a trailing plant, which,
when left on the gound, in moist
places, will throw out roots at every
joint; but they are climbers by
elongation, stretching themselves
upwards through a mass of hedges
and bushes, and covering them with
flowers. The branches are in ge-
neral slender and feeble ; and where
they have no supports they are apt
to become entangled with each
other. Allthe Ayrshire Roses grow
vigorously, sometimes making
shoots twenty feet long in one
season. The Evergreen Rose (Lf.
sempervirens) is a native of the
south of France, greatly resembling
the Ayrshire Rose in its flowers,
but differing in its leaves, which
are smooth, leathery, and evergreen.

The evergreen Roses do not make |

such vigorous shoots as the Ayr-
shire Roses, and consequently are
not so valuable as climbers; but
they are much more so as under-
growth for covering the ground in
shrubberies, as they grow and
flower freely under the drip of trees.
When thus trained, the shoots
should be spread over the ground
they are intended to cover, and

75

of Rose is”
very hardy, and a most abundant |

ROSA,

/pegged down near a joint, which
will throw out roots, and the plant
_will thus grow vigorously. A slop-
ing bank covered with these Roses,
in front of a breakfast-room window,
has a most beautiful effect. They
also look well grafted on low stan-
dards of the common Dog-rose, as
the shoots will descend ali round
and form a cone or pyramid of
Roses. The many or cluster-
flowered Rose (R. multiflora) is a
beautiful plant, bearing large clus-
ters of Roses: sometimes of more
than fifty roses in one cluster.
More than three thousand Roses
have been counted on a plant of
this species atone time. The Seven
Sisters’ Rose (R. m. Grevillei) is a
variety of this species. The Bour-
sault Rose is generally considered by
botanists to be another variety of
Rk. multiflora, but it differs from
that species in several important
particulars. It is a hard-wooded
durable Rose, producing abundance
of flowers, and growing freely:; the
shoots, which are of a purplish-red,
and almost without thorns, being
often fifteen feet long in one season.
The flowers appear very early, and
are remarkable for their reticulated
petals. All these Roses may be
made to form beautiful objects on a
lawn, by training them up parasol-
wires, which may be purchased at
| any ironmonger's; or up a pyramid.
The latter may be made either of
iron rods and wire, or of three
pieces of wood, with holes bored in
them at regular distances, through
which narrow laths may be passed.
It is useful to put a ball and spike
_on the top of this figure, to prevent
birds from settling on it, which they
would be very apt to do, and would
| dirty the flowers and foliage beneath.
Climbing Roses may also be trained
over trellis-work, or up the trunks
of trees; in which last case they

72

ROSA.

276 ROSA.

| should be allowed to climb through

|

|

Eee

the head of the tree, and to hang
down from the branches in wild and
graceful festoons. Hybrid Perpe-
tual Roses are useful for the long
time they remain in flower ;
them, Madame Laffay, having con-
tinued in flower, in the year 1843,
till the 29th of December.

Musk Roses (/0sa moschata) form
another family of Roses, though not
a numerous one, as there are not
above ten or twelve kinds; they
have very long slender branches,
which being too weak to support
alone their large bunches of flowers,
should be trained against a wall.
These Roses never require pruning
(except to cut out the dead wood),
as the flowers are only produced at
the extremity of the shoots. The
Banksian Roses (#. Bdanksic) are
of two kinds, one with buff flowers,
and the other with white ; the Ma-
cartney Roses (R. bract edta and R.
microphylla) and some others, are
natives of China, and rather tender
in England, requiring to be trained
against a wall, and to receive pro-
tection in severe winters. They are
also very apt to drop their flowers,
of which they produce a great quan-
tity, without fully opening them.
R. alpina, the Alpine Rose, of
which there are a great number of
varieties; FR. lutéscens, the yellow
American Rose; and R&R. spinosis-
sima, the Scotch Rose, of which
there are almost innumerable va-
rieties, are hardy, early flowering
Roses, that will grow in almost any
soilor situation. 2. sulphirea, the
Double-yellow Rose, is, however,
more difficult to manage. This
beautiful Rose, which till, lately was
only known in a double state, has
large drooping flowers, shaped like
those of the common Cabbage Rose,
and is supposed to be a native of
Persia. In some situations it grows

one of |

freely; but in others the flower-
buds burst on one side, when only
half formed, and the flowers are
thus imperfect. It should be grown
in an open airy situation, in a light
free soil, and it should have abun-
dance of light and air. It should
be well supplied with water during
the flowering season, but the sround
in which it grows should be so well
drained as never to allow the water
to remain in a stagnant state about
the roots. When trained against a
wall, it should have a north or
eastern exposure rather than a
southern one; and the shoots should
never be cut in. This Rose, in fact,

does not require any pruning, except
what may be necessary to remove
the dead wood, or to train the plant
into shape ; though the latter should
be avoided as much as possible, as
all wounds on this Rose are apt to
produce canker. It issaid to flower
freely when grafted on the Musk
cluster, at eight or ten feet from
the ground, or on the common China
Rose; but I have never seen the
experiment tried. The most beauti-
ful yellow Roses I ever saw were in
the neighbourhood of Worcester,
where the plant had grown in a
border in front of a south-eastern
wall, and had been partly trained
against it; though for some time
before I saw it, probably two or
three years, it had evidently been
left entirely to nature. A plant
supposed to be the single state of
this Rose, was imported about 1835,

by Sir Henry Willich, from Persia,
and flowered for the first time in
England in the garden of the Lon-
don Horticultural Society, in the
summer of 1840.

There are many other Roses not
included in the foregoing enumera-
tion ; the best known of which are
the white Rose, Rdsa dlba, with

/its numerous varieties; the yellow

Ne eS ee ee eee

ROSA.

Ausirian Rose, R. lutea, which has
the petals scarlet above and yellow
beneath ; the Sweet Briar, or Eg-
lantine, 2. rubrigindsa, with its
very numerous varieties; the com-
mon Dog-rose, or Briar, R. canina,
which is common in the hedges in
England, and its multitude of varie-
ties ; the ever-flowering dark-crim-
son Chinese Rose, A. semperflorens ;
and the Fairy Rose, R. Lawrencedna.
To these may be added the Isle of
Bourbon Roses, &. Bourboniana,
the origin of which is uncertain;
but which are generally supposed to
be hybrids between the common
China Monthly Rose (#. indica) and
the Rose a-quatre-saisons (/. da-
mascéna). The Bourbon Roses are
very beautiful; they are large and
rather flat, with rich velvet-like
petals, much darker inside the
flower than on the outside. They
flower in autumn, and they grow
best in dry sandy soils, unless they
are grafted standard high on the
Dog-rose, when they should be ma-
nured like other standard Roses.
Among the best Roses grown in
1852, may be mentioned the follow-
ing; Hybrid perpetual.—Duchess
of Sutherland, a large handsome
flower; La Reine, a very large
flower, but often shaded with lilac
—hoth these were raised in 1843 ;
Madame Audot, flowers of a glossy
flesh-colour, with the edges of the
petals of a creamy-blush—a very
large, full, and finely formed Rose ;
Comte d’Egmont, very large, full,
and rich, raised in 1847 ; and Comte
de Montalivet, with the flowers
shaded violet and red, and very
large and double. Bowrbon.—Paul
Joseph, a magnificent Rose, ,with
flowers of a rich purplish-crimson,
but which grows best as a dwarf,
or as a dwarf-standard ; Madame
Souchet, pale-pink, delicately tinted,
large, and very handsome ; and Mar-

277

ROSA.

got jeune, very large rich crimson

flowers. French Roses.—D’ Agues-
sau, large dark-crimson flowers; and
Géant des Batailles, velvet-crimson,
shaded with purple. Moss.—Coun-
tess de Noé, brilliant crimson and
purple; and Mauget, bright rose
colour, perpetual. China. — Ma-
dame Brion, very large, and rich
rose colour ; Hebé (hybrid), delicate
pink. Noisette.—Thélaire, white,
very double flowers, produced in
great abundance; Soltaferre and
Cloth of Gold, yellow flowers ; and
Ophirie, flowers of a reddish-copper
colour, outer petals rose and fawn ;
very fragrant. Tea Scented.—Saf-
frano, flowers pale yellow.

All Roses require a rich and free
soil, and plenty of pure air. They
are not so particular with respect to
light, as they will flower beauti-
fully in situations which are shaded,
at least during part of the day;
and, in fact, appear to prefer partial
shade to constant exposure to the

FIG. 46.—ROSE CUTTING, READY FOR
PLANTING ; THE DOTTED LINE SHOW-
ING THE GROUND.

sun. Coal-smoke is very injurious
to them. Roses are frequently

ROSA. 278 ROSA.

planted in Rose-gardens or Rosa-| the Great Western, all very fine

riums, in which each kind of Rose} Roses, are all apt to produce
is contrived to fill a separate bed, ' green leaves in the centre of the
and these beds are arranged so as to | flower, when manured with un-
form a regular figure like a geome-| decayed stable manure. The pru-
tric flower-garden. Pyramids or | ning of Roses is a subject on which
pillars of Roses are formed by| there are many different opinions,
twining the climbing kinds against | and Roses are generally cutin every

frame-work ; or they may be trained |
over arcades, or so as to form |
baskets. The Rose is generally pro- |
pagated by budding or grafting the
finer kinds on the common Briar, or
by layers. New varieties are also
raised from seed; and the dwarf
kinds are propagated by cuttings,
most of the leaves of which should
be left on (see fig. 46). Roses should
be generally planted in autumn;
but some of the more tender Chi-
nese and Musk Roses may be planted
in spring. A pit should be dug
about two feet square every way,
and half filled with very rotten
manure or vegetable mould mixed
with an equal portion of pit-sand ;
or if the soil be naturally sandy,
with equal parts of sand and loam.
Every fifth or sixth year the Roses
should be taken up, their roots
shortened, and replanted in fresh
soil, the old soil being removed ; and
every year, in March, about half a
barrowful of rotten manure should
be laid on the surface of the ground,
round the stem of the tree, and
spread out so as to cover the roots ;
the unpleasant appearance of the
manure being concealed by covering
it with turf or stones. It must be
observed, that the manure given
to Rose trees should always be
thoroughly decayed, and does best
laid on the surface, as when the
earth is manured too much and the
manure is dug in, it is very apt to
make the trees produce more leaves
than roses, and the roses have
very oftena green centre. Brennus,
Madame Hardy, Charles Louis, and

year in October or March, so as not
to leave more than three or four
buds on each shoot. An opinion,
however, appears to be gaining
ground among gardeners, that this
pruning has been carried too far,
and that many kinds, particularly
all the climbing Roses, ought not to
be pruned at all. Roses are so
easily forced, that, with very little
trouble, they may be had in flower
every month in the year. For in-
stance, some Moss Roses may be
taken up as soon as they have done
flowering, and having been put into
pots and pruned, they may be kept
in a shady situation in the open air
till wanted for forcing. Those that
are wanted to blossom at Christmas,
should be plunged into a hotbed, or
put into a hothouse the 1st of Octo-
ber ; those put into the hothouse in
November will flower in January
and February; and so on, always
calculating that the plants will
flower about two months after they
are placed in the hothouse or frame.
During the forcing they should be
abundantly supplied with water of
the same temperature as the house
in which they grow; and the heat
they are kept in should never be
less than 60° at night. The China
Rose may be made to flower all the
winter by keeping in a greenhouse
at 50°, and having pinched off all
its flower-buds in summer and
autumn.

The insects that attack Rose trees
are very numerous. Perhaps the
most troublesome are the Aphides
(see A‘pHIs), which cover the tender

—— ee!

ROSA.

shoots in summer and autumn. The
caterpillars of several small moths
are also very destructive to Rose
trees. One of these, which is called
a Leaf-miner, lives within the leaf,
where it feeds upon the pripy mat-
ter, leaving traces of its course by a
number of pale yellow zig-zag lines,
which are occasioned by the skin of
the leaf withering when deprived of
the pulpy matter which supported
it. The perfect insect is called the
Red-headed Moth (Microsétia rufi-
capitélla) ; and it is so small, that
even with its wings expanded it does
not measure more than a quarter of
an inch. Another very destructive
insect is the maggot or grub of one
of the saw-flies. The perfect insect,
which is a beautiful creature, with
transparent wings, lays its eggs in a
flower-bud ; and in this the grub is
hatched, eating its way out and
destroying the petals that it passes
through. Other insects are a kind of
leaf-rollers, not exactly like those
that infest the oak, but a species of
the genus Lyda (belonging to the
Tenthredinide), which construct a
portable case in which they enfold
themselves, of pieces of leaves, which
they cut out and fasten together in
a spiral direction. Besides, there is
the Rose Moth, a species of Tortrix,
which fastens the bud, by a number
of slender threads, to one of the
leaves, which it doubles up like the
folds of a fan.

The only sure remedies for all
these insects are hand-picking and
frequent syringing. © Tobacco-water
is also used; and this is made by
pouring a gallon of boiling water on
half a pound of the best shag to-
bacco, and letting the decoction
remain till it is cold. The infected
shoots should then be dipped in the
tobacco-water, and suffered to re-
main in it about a minute, and then
washed with clean water. If the

279

ROSE OF HEAVEN.

| tobacco-water be suffered to dry on

the plants, it will blacken the young
shoots; and the remedy will thus
be worse than the disease. Lime-
water is also sometimes used, but
no more lime should be put into the
water than to make it look slightly
milky ; and the leaves should be
washed after it has heen suffered to
remain on a short time. A strong
decoction of quassia is another re-
medy, and it is better than either
lime or tobacco-water, as it does
not injure the appearance of the
plants. Dipping the shoots in clean
water, and laying them on one hand,
while a soft brush is gently passed
over them with the other, is also
found very efficacious.

Rosco‘EA.—Scitaminee.—Hand-
some stove-plants, somewhat resem-
bling the Indian Shot. They should
be grown in loam, peat, and sand ;
and they are increased by dividing
the root.

RosE.—See Ro'sa.

RosE Acacta.— Robinia hispida.
—A very handsome shrub with
pinnate leaves, and long drooping
racemes of rose-coloured flowers. It
will grow in any soil, but it should
be placed in a sheltered situation,
on account of the brittleness of its
branches, and their liability to be
broken off by high winds. — See
Rosr'NIA.

Rose Bay.—See RHoDODE’NDRON
and Ne’R1um.

RosE Campion. —Agrostémma.
—The very pretty flowers known by
this English name are included by
many botanists in the genus Lych-
nis. Many of the kinds are annuals;
but the common Rose Campion, A.
coronaria, is a perennial.

RosEMARY.—RosMARI NUS.

RoskEOF HEAVEN.—Agrostémma
or Lychnis Celi Rosa.—An orna-
mental annual from the Levant
quite hardy in British gardens.

ROT-HEAP.

280

RUBUS.

RosE OF JERICHO.—Anastdtica | and similar seed-vessels, which is

hierochuntina.—A cruciferous an-
nual from the Levant, of no beauty,
but curious, from the manner in
which its branches curl round the
seeds when they are ripe. The end
of the shoot containing the seeds
thus protected falls off, and is blown
by the wind from place to place
without discharging the seeds, so
long asit is dry; but as soon as the
ball reaches a moist place, where
the seeds can germinate, the pro-
tecting branches relax, and the seeds
drop out. There is a species of
Lycopodium from tropical America,
L. lepidophgllum, which curls up
like the Rose of Jericho, and is
often mistaken for it.

RosE-RootT.—See RHopr'oLa.

Rotation oF Crops. —It has
been found by a series of experi-
ments, that the same kind of annual
plant should never be grown for
more than two years in succession
in the same ground, without ma-
nuring or renewing the soil; as
plants exhaust the soil of those
salts which are nourishing for them.
The ground, however, which thus
becomes unfit for one kind of plant,
is found to be suitable for another
kind quite different ; and the making
these plants sueceed each other in a
proper manner is called the rota-
tion of crops. Perennial plants, and
trees and shrubs, are not so liable
to injury from their exhausting the
soil, as they elongate their roots
every year, so as to have their
spongioles always in fresh soil ; but
some shrubs, such as Roses, which
never have long roots, should either
be transplanted every third or fourth
year, or have manure laid on the
surface of the soil, to supply them
with fresh food.

Rot-HEAP.—A heap composed of
sand, and such fruit as haws, holly-

berries, ash-keys, hornbeam-nuts, | 2.

}

turned over several times in the
course of the winter, to promote
the decomposition of the exterior
covering of the seed. The object is
to save rpom in the nursery, because
these seeds, and others, if sown
before the flesh or exterior covering
is rotted off, will lie dormant in the
soil for a year ; whereas by rotting
it off and sowing the seeds in the
spring of the second year after
which they are gathered, they come
up the following May or June. The
rot-heap is kept in what is called
the rotting-ground, which may be
in any open situation fully exposed
to the weather. The heaps may be
one or two feet in thickness, and of
any convenient width, the object
being to produce decay without in-
ducing such an active fermentation
as would generate sufficient heat to
destroy the vital principle in the
seeds.

Rovucw Portinc.—This is a
most important improvement in the
system of growing plants in pots ;
and it consists in filling the pot
with rough pieces of turf, pieces of
charcoal, and stones, so as to allow
air to pass freely to the roots. It
is well known that plants will
neither produce flowers nor fruit
without an ample supply of car-
bonie acid gas, which they obtain
from the air.

RuBBISH—such as broken bricks,
stones, remains of old walls, &«.—
is of great use for laying at the bot-
tom of a flower-bed or border in an
open garden in which bulbs are to
be grown. A similar bed has also
been found very useful for growing
Dahlias, as they are very liable to
be injured by stagnant moisture.

Ru'sus.—Rosdcee.—The Bram-
ble.—There are but few ornamental
species of this very extensive genus.
odoratus, the flowering Rasp-

a

RUSSELIA.

nootkanus, the Nootka Sound Bram-
ble, with large white flowers, both
kinds being sweet-scented, are the
most ornamental. To these may
be added the double-flowered com-
mon Bramble (R. fruticdsus var.
pomponius) and R. spectaébilis the
Californian Bramble, with fragrant
dark-purple flowers, and dark yel-
low fruit. All the brambles are
very hardy, but very short-lived ;
their stems dying down every se-
cond year, like those of the common
Raspberry (Rubus ide‘us). They
all send up numerous suckers, by
which they are propagated ; and
they all delight in a moist soil and
shaded situation ; though they will
not thrive exactly under the drip of
trees.

RuDBE'CKIA. — Compésite.—Very
showy perennial, biennial, and an-
nual plants, which should be grown
in light rich soil. They attain a
very large size, and are therefore
only suitable to large gardens. They
are all hardy, and of the easiest cul-
ture of their respective kinds.

Rur.—Ro'ra.

Rvue’LL1a.—A canthacece. — Her-
baceous plants with pretty tube-
shaped blue-flowers. Some of the
species require a stove, and others
a greenhouse ; but they should all
be grown in light rich soil, and are
propagated by cuttings.

Ru’scus.—Smilacee.—The But-
cher’s Broom.—Very curious ever-
green shrubs, most of which bear
their flowers and fruit on their
leaves. All the species prefer shady
situations under the drip of trees,
where but few other plants will
grow, and they are all readily in-
creased by suckers, which they
throw up in abundance. One of the
kinds is sometimes called the Alex-
andrian Laurel.

RussE‘L1a. — Scrophularine. —

281

berry, with reddish flowers, and R. | R.

SAGUS.

jimcea is a very elegant
stove-plant, with slender rush-like
branches, and _ scarlet tube-like
flowers. It should be grown in
light rich soil, and abundantly sup-
plied with water while in a grow-
ing state. It is propagated by cut-
tings, struck in heat.

A‘BAL.—Pdlme.—The Palmét-
to, or American Palm.—These

Palm-trees, which are natives of
tropical America, require a stove in
England, and they should be grown
in light loamy soil. They are in-
creased by suckers, which they send
up freely. They are all of dwarf
stature, and grow freely in a some-
what moist heat.

Sa’/ccHARUM.—Graminee.—The
Sugar-cane grows freely in England,
if kept in a stove in a very rich
loamy soil. It may be increased by
suckers ; or if a part of the stem
be laid in a trench in the tan-pit,
or in rich loam, where it has bot-
tom-heat, it will form plants at
every joint.

SacreD Bean or InpIA.—NE-
LU/MBIUM SPECIO/SUM.

SAFFRON.—Crécus sativus.—See

Crocus.
Sace.—See Sa’zLvIA.
SaGitTa‘RIA. — Alismacee. —

Water plants, some of which re-
quire a stove, others a greenhouse,
and others are quite hardy. They
should all be grown in loamy soil,
with their stems in water; and
they are increased by seeds or di-
viding the roots.

Saco Patm.—See Sa'cus.

Sa‘eus.—Palme.—A kind of
Palm, from the pith of the stem of
which Sago is made. The plants
should be grown in sandy loam, and
they should be exposed to a strong
moist heat. Theseeds are produced
in a sort of cone, which is of a bril-

SALIX.

liant shining brown, and very hand-
some; but the plant has never yet
produced seeds in this country.

Samnt AcGnes’s FLowEer.—The
Snow-Flake.—See Leuco‘sum.

Samnt BarnaBy’s THISTLE. —
Centauréa solstitialis.

SAINTFOIN.—See Onopry‘cHIs.

Sant JoHn’s Breap.—See Cz-
RATO‘NIA.

Satnt JoHn’s Wort.—See Hy-
PE’RICUM.

Saint Martin’s FLower.— Al-
streméria Flés Martini.

Sant Perer’s Wort. — The
Snow Berry.—See Sympuo’rtrA.

Satica‘r1a.—See Ly‘tHRvuM.

SaLico’RNIa. — Chenopodiacee.
Glasswort,—Succulent British plants,
which grow naturally by the sea-
shore. When cultivated, they should
be grown in silver-sand, and a little
salt laid occasionally on the sur-
face of the soil, so as to be washed
in by watering or rain. One of the
kinds is sometimes eaten as a culi-
nary vegetable, under the name of
Marsh Samphire.

SALISBU‘RIA.— Amenticee, or
Taxdcee.—This very remarkable
plant was originally called Ginkgo
biloba, Ginkgo being its name in
Japan. Its name has, howeyer,
now been altered to the more eu-
phonious one of Salisburia adian-
tifolia, the leaves resembling in
form those of the Maiden-hair Fern,
the generic name of which is Adidn-
tum. As the Salisbiria grows to a
very large size, and as there are
specimens in the neighbourhood of
London above sixty feet high, it
would not have been mentioned
here, had it not been very orna-
mental when young. The tree has
flowered at Kew and at other places ;
but it has never borne fruit in Eng-
land, though it has in France.

Sa‘~rx.—A mentacee or Salica-
cee.—The Willow.—A very exten-

282

SALPIGLOSSIS.

sive genus of ligneous plants, varying
in size from the tree Willow, of
seventy or eighty feet high, to
the creeping half-herbaceous kinds
called S. herbacea, 8S. vaccinitfolia,
&c. Of these S. herbdcea creeps
so close to the ground that it forms
on the Swiss mountains a kind of
turf, not rising more than an inch
above the surface of the ground,
and yet forming, when closely ex-
amined, a complete miniature tree.
All the kinds of Willow grow best
in moist soil, or near water; and
they all grow in such situations
very rapidly. The Weeping Willow
(Salix babylénica) has been known
to grow twenty feet high in ten
years, and the other species to in-
crease in a similar proportion.

All the common Weeping Willows ©

grown in England are female plants,
and it is supposed that the kind
imported from St. Helena, and
called Napoleon’s Weeping Willow,
is the male plant. Of the tall
shrubby kinds of Willow Sdlix
caprea, the great round-leaved Sal-
low, or Grey Withy, is perhaps the
handsomest ; and it is the flowering
branches of this species that are
called Palms in the neighbourhood
of London, and are gathered by
children on Easter Sunday. The
Willow will grow in any soil which
is not too dry ; and it is propagated
by cuttings, which strike root when
merely put into the ground, without
any other trouble being taken with
them.

SaLttow.—A kind of Willow, with
roundish shaggy leaves.

© SALPIGLO’ssis. — Solandcee or

Scrophulaérine.—Very beautiful half-
hardy annual plants, natives of Chili.
The seeds should be sown in February
on a slight hotbed; and the young
plants should be planted out in May.
The soil should be loam mixed with
one-third of peat or sand ; and the

SALVIA.

situation should be sheltered, and

partially shaded ; as, if the collar of
the plant should be exposed to the
burning heat of the sun, so as to
become withered, the plant will die
off suddenly. It is also very easily
killed by the collar being exposed to
stagnant moisture. When grown in
pots, it should be frequently shifted,
always into pots only a little larger
than the previous ones, so as to
make the plant bushy. It varies
very much, according to the soil and
situation in which it is grown; and
if kept through the winter in a
greenhouse, it will become partially
woody, like the Mignonette. There
are many different kinds, which are
made species by some botanists, but
which are now generally allowed to
be only varieties. Many gardeners
sow the seeds in autumn, and keep
the plant in frames all the winter,
that they may flower early in spring.
SALT-TREE. —See Hanimope’n-
DRON.
SALT-WORT.—Satso‘LA.
Sa’/Lv1a.—Labiate.—The Sage.
—No one who has only seen the
common Sage growing in a kitchen-
garden could imagine the splendid
flowering plants which belong to the
genus Salvia. Some of these, as for
example S. formdsa, are shrubby,
and have dark scarlet flowers ; and
others, such as 8. pa&tens, have their
flowers of the richest blue ; others,
such as S. atirea, have golden-yellow
flowers ; others, such as S. dentata,
have white flowers ; and in others,
such as S. involucrata and S. pur-
purea, the flowers are purple. Be-
sides these, some of the kinds have
violet flowers, and others pink or
crimson : and the different kinds of
Clary (S. Horminum) are not culti-
vated for their flowers at all, but
merely because the points of the
shoots are so deeply tinted as to
have the appearance of flowers. The

283

SAND.

plants differ in their habits as muchas

in their flowers ; some are shrubby,
some perennial, some biennial, and
some annual ; and some are so ten-
der as to require a stove; while
others must be kept in a frame or
greenhouse; but the greater part
are quite hardy in the open air. All
the kinds should be grown in a light
rich soil ; and they are propagated
by cuttings, division of the root, or
by seeds, which nearly all the species
ripen in great abundance. There
are above a hundred and fifty distinct
species of Salvia, besides varieties.

Sa’mBac.—The Indian Jasmine.
—See Jasmr‘num.

SampBu ‘cus. — Caprifoliacecee. —
The Elder.—The Common Elder,
Samiucus nigra, is a low tree, sel-
dom, if ever, exceeding twenty feet
in height, and generally having the
character of a shrub rather than that
of atree. The species is not orna-
mental, but there is a variety with
cut leaves, S. n. laciniata, which
is very much so. The most orna-
mental kind of Elder is, however,
S. racemosa, with loose panicles of
large dark scarlet berries, which
look like bunches of small scarlet
grapes. All the different kinds of
Elder thrive most in rich soil kept
moist, and they are propagated by
layers, cuttings, and seeds, which
ripen freely. They are all quite
hardy, and require very little atten-
tion from the gardener.

SAND is an important article inthe
propagation and culture of plants ;
and no good garden, whether small
or large, ought to be without a
stock of it. Sand, relatively to gar-
dening, is of two kinds : pure white
silver-sand free from earthy matter
and ferruginous particles, which is
only found in particular situations ;
and common brown or grey sand,
which is found in pits either with
or without gravel, and on shores of

SAND,

284

SANTALUM.

rivers or the sea. The first kind of
sand is used for striking Heaths,
and other plants difficult to root by
cuttings, and also for mixing with
peat, for growing the more tender
kinds of house plants. This sand
is procured in abundance in the
neighbourhood of London and Paris,
from pits; but throughout the
country in general, it is chiefly to
be found mixed with peat, and form-
ing what is called heath soil on the
surface of heaths or commons. In
these situations this sand, from being
exposed alternately to the air, the
sun, and the action of rain, becomes
white by bleaching, and is indispen-
sable to the gardener ; but when it
exists in heath soil in a sufiicient
proportion for growing plants, pure
sand is only wanted by the gardener
for striking cuttings. It is, how-
ever, so useful for this purpose, that
a quantity of it ought to be procured,
and carefully kept in a box where
it will not be mixed with other soil,
by every person who grows plants
in pots.

Common coarse sand is used for
striking the commoner kinds of
plants either by cuttings or layers ;
it is also used for placing under
bulbs when planting them, and in
general for mixing with soil of dif-
ferent kinds, with a view to render
it more free and pervious to water.
This description of sand may be pro-
cured in almost every part of the
country ; and it is only necessary
to guard against pit-sand which is
of a rusty brown, and consequently
strongly impregnated with iron, and
sea-sand, which is necessarily im-
pregnated with salt. By mixing
irony sand with quicklime in a state
of powder, the iron may be neutral-
ised ; but this operation requires a
year or two to effect it, besides the
expense of the lime, and the neces-
sity of separating it afterwards by

sifting. Saline sand may be rendered
fit for use by repeated washings with
fresh water ; but this expense can
only be advisable when no other
sand can be procured. In various
parts of the country there is a lead-
coloured soft sandstone, which when
broken, and reduced to a state of
powder, forms an excellent sand,
both for mixing with soil, and
striking cuttings.

SANDAL-WooD.— See SANTALUM.

SanDERSONIA. —Lilidcee.—This
very remarkable and ornamental
plant was discovered by John San-
derson, Esq., in 1851, near Port
Natal, in South Africa. It has a
small tuber, an upright stem, and
numerous golden orange bell-shaped
flowers bearing more resemblance to
the Fritillaries than the lilies. It
is about as hardy as Gladiolus na-
talensis. S. aurantiaca is the only
species yet known.

Sanecuina‘Ria. — Papaverdcee.
—Puccoon, or Canadian Bloodwort.
A very pretty little plant with
white ranunculus-shaped flowers.
It should be grown in a light sandy
soil, and it has a good effect when .
used to fill one of the beds of a geo-
metric flower-garden. The plants
are increased by seed or division of
the roots.

Sa’/NTALUM.—Santalacee.—San-
dal-wood.—Stove plants, natives of
the East Indies, and one species
from New Holland. The flowers of
S. dlbum, the true Sandal-wood,
are small, and are produced in
spikes or racemes; but the great
value of the plant consists in the
fragrance of the wood, which is so
great that it is burned for incense,
&e., and is said to be destructive to
all noxious insects. The plants

should be grown in light sandy
loam, and kept rather dry; but
the wood has comparatively very
little fragrance in this country. -

SARACHA,

SANTOLI'NA. — Composite. — La-
vender Cotton.—Evergreen dwarf
shrubs, which will grow in any
common garden soil, and which are
propagated by cuttings.

Sanvita‘Lra. — Composite. —A
beautiful little Mexican annual, well
adapted from its dwarf stature and
compact habit of growth, for cover-
ing a bed in a geometric flower-
garden. The flowers are large in
proportion to the size of the plant,
and they are of a rich brown and
yellow. It is quite hardy, and only
requires sowing in March or April
in the open border.

Sapr/nDus.—Sapindacee. —The
Soapberry.—Natives of the East
and West Indies, which require a
stove in England. They should be
grown in loam and peat, and they
are propagated by cuttings.
Sapona‘ria.—Silenacee or Ca-
ryophyllacee. — Soapwort. — Very
beautiful little plants, annual and
perennial, greatly resembling some
of the kinds of Ly¥chnis. All the
kinds of Saponaria look very well
on rock-work, covering it with a
profusion of beautiful little pink
flowers. The handsomest kinds are
S. ocyméides and S. caldbrica, for
the perennials; and S. Vaccadria
and S. perfoliata, for the annuals.
They will all grow in any common
garden soil.

Sa/RACHA. — Solandcece. — An-
nual and perennial plants, natives
of Mexico and Peru. S. viscdsa,
which is the handsomest species,
has rather large cream-coloured
flowers, beautifully marked in the
centre with olive dots, and which
are succeeded by large red berries.
It may be treated asa half-hardy
annual; or the roots, which are
tuberous, may be taken up and kept
dry during winter, like those of the
Marvel of Peru, and other similar
_ plants. When treated as an annual,

285

SAW-FLY.

the seeds should be sown on a slight
hotbed in February, and the young
plants removed into the open border
in May.

SARRACE'NIA. — Sarracenidcece.
—The American Pitcher-plant, or
Side-saddle flower. — Bog- plants,
with very curious flowers, and pit-
cher-shaped leaves. Though natives
of Canada, where they flower freely,
and are produced in great abund-
ance, they are seldom flowered in
England without the aid of artificial
heat. They are grown in pots filled
with peat and moss, and placed in
saucers of water, or in the open air,
on the banks of ponds or rivers.
When kept in a room, or on the bal-
cony, they should be grown in double
pots, the interstice between the two
being filled with moss.

SARSAPARI’LLA.—See Sur'nax.

Sasa’Nqua.—A kind of Caméllia,
the blossom of which strongly re-
sembles that of the Tea-tree.

Saty’riuM.— Orchidacee.—Ter-
restrial orchidaceous plants from the
Cape of Good Hope. The leaves are
very curious, from the flat manner
in which they spread themselves on
the surface of the pot; and the
flowers, which are generally yellow,
are very handsome. They should
be grown in very sandy loam or
peat ; and they are generally kept
in a greenhouse. They are very
apt to damp off if over-watered.

Saw-FLy. — Tenthredinide. —
Beautiful flies with clear wings,
which are furnished with a curious
instrument like a saw in the lower
part of the body, with which they
wound the bark to deposit their
eggs. These eggs, like those of
some other insects, greatly increase
in size after they are laid. The
grub or maggot is short and thick,
with a black shining head, and when
attacked, it can let itselfdown by a
thread. These insects are very de-

SAXIFRAGA,

286

SCHIZANDRA.

structive to Rose-trees, as they de- |S. granulata, the common Moun-

stroy the flower buds.

Saw. —The more convenient kind |

for a lady to use for garden purposes

|

FIG. 47.—BOW-SAW FOR CUTTING OFF
BRANCHES OF TREES.

is one called a bow-saw (see jig. 47),
made to screw tighter, if necessary.
Saxa-GoTHEexz. —Conifere. —A

| very handsome evergreen tree, from

quently likely to prove hardy in
British gardens. The leaves re-
semble those of the Irish Yew on
the upper surface, but are almost |
white, with a glaucous line below.
The tree, in its native country, is
about thirty feet high. Itis named |
after Prince Albert’s family.
Saxi’FRAGA. —Sazifragee.—Well-

known herbaceous plants, many of
which are natives of Britain, with
white, yellow, or pink flowers. They

the Andes of Patagonia, and conse-

_ are all of the easiest culture, and

will grow in any light garden soil,
though they prefer a deepsand. S.
umbrosa is the London Pride, ah

|

tain Saxifrage. All the kinds are
handsome, and many of them are
well adapted for rock-work.
SAXIFRAGE.—See Saxr'FRAGA.
ScaBio'sa. — Dipsacee. — The
Scabious. — Ornamental perennial
and annual plants, mostly natives
of Europe and the East Indies, that
will grow freely in any common
garden soil, and may be increased
by seeds.
ScaBious.—See ScaBro'sa.
ScaLe Insect.—See Co’ccus.
ScHEERIA. — Gesnariane. — 8.
Mexicana closely resembles some of
the species of Achimines, from which
genus it has separated on account of
its funnel-shaped stigma. There
are two varieties ; one with purple,
and the other with light blue
flowers.
Scur'nus.—Anacardiacee, or
Terebinthacee.—Deciduous shrubs
or low trees, natives of Brazil and
Peru, nearly allied to Duvata. The
flowers of Schinus Mélle, the com-
monest species, are small and ofa
yellowish-green ; but they are suc-
ceeded by berries of a beautiful rose-
colour and highly polished. The
leaves are impari-pinnate and very
handsome, and they have the same
peculiarity as those of the Duvata
(see Duvav’a). S. Mélle was first
considered a stove-plant; it was
afterwards transferred to the green-
house, and it is now found to suc-
ceed in the open air. It was intro-
duced in 1497, but it was very
scarce till about 1830, when it was
first tried in the open ground. It
will grow in any common garden
soil ; and it only requires a slight
protection during hard frosts.
Scuiza’/NDRA. —Menispermacee.
—A climbing or trailing half-hardy
shrub, with scarlet flowers, nearly
allied to Cécculus indicus.— For the
culture, see CoccuLus.

SCHIZANTHUS. 28

} Scuiza’/nTHUS. — Solandcee, or
Scrophuldrine.—A genus of very
beautiful half-hardy annual flowers,
which may be either sown in autumn
or spring. If wanted to flower in
spring, the seed should be sown in
August or September, as soon as it
is ripe, in light rich mould ; and
the young plants should be kept in
well-drained pots, in a frame or
greenhouse during winter. In Feb-
ruary, they should be shifted into
larger pots, and this shifting should
be repeated every week or fortnight
till the plants have formed their
flower-buds. Care must be taken
in shifting the plants not to injure
the roots, as they are very tender
and succulent. The plants are also
liable to die suddenly if the collar is
exposed to much sun-heat or much
moisture. The soil should be com-
posed of equal parts of vegetable
mould and sandy loam, or of loam,
peat, and rotten manure from an
old hotbed. It has lately been found,
however, that S. retasus will flower
better in a poor dry soil than in a
rich one ; all the kinds require very
little moisture, and if the soil be
too rich for them, they will produce
only leaves instead of flowers. When
the seeds are sown in spring, it
should be on a hotbed, and the
young plants should be removed into
the open air in May, when they will
flower in autumn. The plants are
much larger in the open ground, and
the flowers are finer, if the soil be
sufficiently rich and light ; but care
should be taken to plant them in a
sheltered situation, or to tie them to
stakes, as the stems are very brittle,
and very liable to be broken off by
high winds. The principal kinds of
Schizinthus are S. pinndtus, with
its varieties, all of which have pur-
plish flowers; S. vetdsus, with scar-
let and yellow flowers; and S.
Priéstii, with white and yellow

id

i] SCILLA.

flowers. Of these, S. pinndtus and
its allied species or variety, S. pér-
rigens, are the hardiest.

ScHIZOPE/TALON.—Cruciferce.—
An annual flower, with curiously cut
petals, and a strong tap-root. It is
rather difficult to grow, as it does
not bear transplanting well, unless
when quite young, and it requires a
deep free soil for its descending root.
It should be sown in spring, and, if
possible, where it is to remain.

ScHo'r1a.—Legumindse. —Cape
shrubs, with very showy flowers,
which may be kept in a greenhouse
during the greater part of the year;
but which should be removed to a
stove or hotbed frame during win-
ter. They should not, however, be
plunged, as bottom-heat does not
appear to suit them. They should
be grown in peat mixed with a
little loam, or in a very sandy loam,
the pots being very well drained ;
and they are propagated by cuttings
struck without bottom-heat. Many
gardeners keep them in a green-
house all the! year, covering them
with a hand-glass and a mat in
very severe weather.

ScHOMBU’RGKIA. — Orchidacee.
Some of the species of this genus are
very handsome, and as they are found
at a great height above the sea in
South America, they will probably
prove more hardy than most other
orchids in this country.

ScHUBE’RTIA. — Coniferae. — See
Decipuous CyPREss.

Scr’LLa. — Asphodelew. — The
Squill or Wild Hyacinth.—Bulbous-
rooted plants, mostly natives of
Europe, which send up their beau-
tiful bell-shaped flowers before their
leaves. Their flowers resemble those
of the Hyacinth, but they are much
smaller. S. sibirica is perhaps, the
most brilliant blue flower grown in
British gardens; and there are other
kinds with white or pale pink flowers,

‘SCREENS, 288

well deserving of cultivation.
nonscripta, the Wild Hyacinth, is
sometimes called the Blue Bell, and
the Hare Bell ; but these names are
also applied, and apparently with
more propriety, to Campdnula ro-
tundifolia.—See Campa’NuLa. All
the kinds of Scilla are quite hardy,
but they thrive best in a sandy soil
and a somewhat shady situation.
They are increased by offsets, and

the bulbs may be taken up in |

| autumn if it is thought necessary to
remove them ; but otherwise they
may remain in the ground several
years without sustaining any injury.

ScrTaMl’NE@.—Hothouse plants
with reed-like stems, long broad
| leaves, and showy flowers, which
are usually fragrant.

Scorpion Grass.—See Myosorts.

Scorpion Senna. — Coronilla
E’merus.—See Coronr’Lua.

Scorrru‘rus. — Leguminose. —
Caterpillars.—Annuals with yellow
pea flowers, the seed vessels of
which resemble caterpillars. The
species are all natives of the south
of Europe, and they are all quite
hardy in British gardens.

ScorzonE RA. — Compésite. —
Viper’s Grass. —Handsome peren-
nials, with purple, pink, or yellow
flowers, quite hardy in British gar-
dens, and growing in any common
garden soil.

Scorch Lapurnum. — Cytisus
alpinus.—See Cy’tisus.

Sco’rr1a. — Leguminise. — An
Australian shrub with reddish, pea-
flowers, quite hardy in British gar-
dens, if grown in sandy peat.

ScrEENnS differ from sieves in
having the wires in parallel lines,
and not reticulated ; and in being too
large to be shaken by the hands. A
screen consists of a number of pa-
rallel wires fixed in a wooden frame,
and supported at the one end by two
wooden posts, while the other rests

SEATS,

S.| against the ground ; and the earth

to be sifted is thrown by spadefuls
against the wires, so that while the
mould passes through them, the
stones and rubbish fall on the side
next the gardener. The earth must
be well broken with the spade before
it is thrown upon the screen, and
the operation can only be performed
when the weather is dry.

ScroPHuLA ‘RIA.—Scrophuldrine.
—Figwort.—-Perennial plants, with
brownish flowers, mostly natives of
Europe, and growing in any com-
mon garden soil.

ScuTrerxa ‘Ri4.— Labiate. —Skull-
cap.—Handsome perennial plants,
generally with blue flowers, but
sometimes having pink, white, or
purple flowers, all of which are
shaped like those of the Snapdragon.
Some of the species are natives of
Britain and other parts of Europe,
and others of North America and
Australia. They all grow best in
peat or in very sandy loam; and
they are ajl quite hardy in British
gardens,

Sea BucktHorn. — Hippéphae
rhamnoides.—See Hippo’PHAE.

Sea Heata.—See FRANKE'NIA.

Sea Hoxtiy.— Eryngium A quifo-
liwm.—An umbelliferous perennial
with blue flowers, a native of Spain,
which should be grown in very sandy
loam.

Sra LAVENDER.—See Sra‘TIce.

Sea Raewort.—Cineraria Mari-
tima.—A half-hardy dwarf shrub
with yellow flowers, a native of the
south of Europe, which is generally
grown in a greenhouse, in a mixture
of loam and peat.

SEA-SIDE BatsamM.—CYrdton Eleu-
teria. A native of Jamaica. See

Cro‘Bon.

Seats for gardens are either open
or covered, the latter being in the
form of root-houses, huts, pavilions,
&c., and the

temples, grottoes,

* tt est ss ee st le tins se ainda

SEATS.

289

SEATS.

former being either fixed, tempo-
rary, or portable. Fixed seats are
eommonly of stone, either plain
stone benches without backs, or
stone supporters to wooden benches.
Sometimes, also, wooden seats are
fixed, as when they are placed round
a tree, or when boards are nailed to
posts, or when seats are formed in
imitation of Mushrooms, as in the

grounds at Redleaf. Fixed seeds |

are also sometimes formed of turf.
Portable seats are formed of wood,
sometimes contrived to have the
back of the seat folded down when
the seat is not in use; so as to
exclude the weather and avoid the
dirt of birds which are apt to perch
onthem. Another kind of portable
seat, which is frequently formed of
iron, as shown in jig. 48, is readily

wheeled from one part of the grounds
to another, and the back of which
also folds down to protect the seat
from the weather. There is a kind
of camp stool, which serves as a
portable seat, imported from Nor-
way, aud sold at the low price of
2s. 6d. or 3s. ; and there are also
straw seats like half beehives, which

are, however, only used in garden |
3 b

huts, or in any situations under
cover, because in the open air they
would be likely to be soaked with
rain.—There are a great variety of
rustic seats formed of roots and
crooked branches of trees, used both
for the open garden and under
cover, and there are also seats of cast
and wrought iron of great variety

of form. There should always be

some kind of analogy between the

seat and the scene of which it forms

ought to be of comparatively simple

'and architectural forms, and either |
of wood or stone, those of wood |
being frequently painted of a stone- |

|colour and sprinkled over with
| silver sand before the paint is dry,

a part; and for this reason rustic |
'seats should be confined to rustic |
| scenery ; and the seats for a lawn |
‘or highly kept pleasure ground |

|to give them the appearance of |

ing, are not sufficiently massive for
effect, and the metal conveys the
idea-of cold in winter and heat in
summer.

| stone.

Tron seats, generally speak- |

When seats are placed along a |

walk, a gravelled recess ought to be
formed to receive them ; and there
ought generally to be a foot-board

to keep the feet from the moist |
ground, whether the seat is on |

gravel or on a lawn.

In a garden |

where there are several seats, some |

ought to be in positions exposed

, to the sun, and others placed in the
shade, and none ought to be put |

down in a situation where the back
of the seat is seen by a person
|approaching it before the front.
Indeed the backs of all fixed seats
ought to be concealed by shrubs,

are circular seats placed round a
| tree. Seats ought not to be put
|down where there will be any
temptation to the persons sitting on
them to strain their eyes to the

right or left, nor where the boun- |

dary of the garden forms a con-
spicuous object in the view. In
general, all seats should be of a
stone-colour, as harmonising best
with vegetation. Nothing can be
more unartistical than seats painted
of a pea-green, and placed among
the green leaves of living plants.

U

or by some other means, unless they |

| white, red, or yellow flowers.

SEEDS.

290

SEEDS.

Sr’catEuR.—A kind of pruning |

shears, somewhatlargerand stronger
than those common in English gar-
dens, and principally used in France
for pruning peach trees and other
kinds of wall fruit trees.

Securr’cera. — Leguminose. —
The Hatchet Vetch.—A hardy
annual, with yellow pea-flowers.
It requires no other care than
sowing in March or April, but as it
is very coarse-growing, and requires
a great deal of room, it is not
suitable for a small garden. This
plant was called Coronilla Securi-
daca by Linnzus.

Se‘pum. — Crassulacee. — The
Stone Crop.—Succulent plants with
The

_ genus takes its botanic name of

Sedum from the Latin verb sedere,
to sit, because in a wild state it
appears to be sitting or crouching
on the old walls or rocks which
form its habitat; and its English
name of Stone Crop alludes to the
same habit of growth, as it appears
to be growing out of stones, which
afford no other crop. The most
beautiful species of the genus is
decidedly S. Siebéldtii, but it
requires a greenhouse to grow it
well, All the species, though quite
hardy, should be grown in well-
drained pots filled with turfy loam,
mixed with lime-rubbish ; and they
are all admirably adapted for rock-
work. They are increased by
cuttings or dividing the roots.
Sreps.—The gathering and pre-
servation of seeds is an occupation
peculiarly agreeable to persons fond
of gardening ; partly, no doubt, be-
cause it contains so much of future
promise, and on the same principle
that sowing is universally consi-

| dered a more exciting operation

than reaping. The greater number
of seeds of ornamental herbaceous
plants are contained in long narrow

pods called siliques, or silicles, such
as those of the Cruciferous plants ;
or in leguminous pods, such as those
of the Sweet Pea; or of capsules,
such as those of Campanula: but a
number of plants produce their
seeds naked in tubes, such as the
Scrophularine ; on receptacles, such
as the Compésite; and some in
fruits more or less fleshy, such as
the Fuchsia. All seeds may be
known to be ripe, or nearly so, by
the firmness of their texture, and by
their changing from a white or
greenish colour, to a colour more or
less brown. There are, indeed,
some seeds which are whitish when
ripe, such as the white Lupine, and
several of the Sweet Peas; and
other seeds that are quite black,
such as those of some Ranunculuses ;
but, in general, a brown colour is a
characteristic of ripeness. Seeds
should be gathered on a dry day,
after the sun has had sufficient time
to exhale all the moisture which
dews or rains may have left on the
seed-vessels. In general, the pods,
or capsules, should be cut off with
a small portion of the stalks at-
tached, and the whole should be
spread out, each kind by itself, on
papers in an airy room or shed,
from which rain, and the direct
influence of the sun are both ex-
cluded. When the seed-vessels are
thoroughly dried, they may be put
up in papers, without separating
the seeds from them, and kept in a
dry place, rather airy than close,
till wanted for sowing. Seeds pre-
served in the seed-vessel, no doubt,
make comparatively clumsy pack-
ages, to seeds from which every
description of husk or covering has
been separated ; but in this clumsy
state they are found to keep better
than when cleaned. Nevertheless,
when they are to be sown the follow-
ing year, or sent anywhere in a letter,

Se

SSE SS

SEEDS.

it is better to take them out of their
covering and to render them as clean
as possible, by passing them through
sieves, with holes sufficiently large
to admit the escape of dust, but
not of the seeds. Such sieves on a
small scale every lady may make
for herself, by turning up the edges
of a piece of thin pasteboard cut in
a circular form, and piercing the
bottom with holes with a large pin
or darning-needle. When it is de-
termined to separate the seeds from
the seed-vessels, instead of putting
up the whole together, the vessels,
after gathering, may be dried in the
sun, when many of the seeds will
come out by the expansion of the
seed-vessels in the heat, and the
remainder can easily be rubbed ont.
This is the usual practice of nur-
serymen. For keeping seeds a lady
ought to have a small cabinet, which
she might form herself of pasteboard,
with as many drawers as there are
letters in the alphabet ; and as her
seeds are put up in papers, she can
tie the packets of each genus by
themselves, and put them in the ap-
propriate drawer. Where so much
trouble cannot be taken, a large
brown paper bag, or a canvas bag
for each letter of the alphabet, may
be substituted.

The period during which seeds
will retain their vegetative powers
differs in different families, genera,
and even species. Seeds of the
Ranunculacee and the Cruciferze
will, in general, retain their vitality
for several years, im whatever
manner they may be kept, provided
the situation be not such as will
cause them to germinate. On the
other hand, seeds of the Capsicum
will keep for several years if re-
tained in the berry, but will seldom
grow the second year when removed
from it. Asa safe general guide,
it may be adopted as a rule, that all

291

SEMPERVIVUM.

seeds will keep three years, and
grow, provided they are retained in
the unopened seed-vessel ; that most
seeds, if maturely ripened, and kept
in a dry place in close paper packets,
will grow the second year ; and that
all seeds whatever, whether kept in
the seed-vessel, or exposed in opened
drawers, like those of the seedsmen,
will grow the first year after being
gathered. Mignonette seed will keep
seven years; but that of Stocks and
Wallflowers will not remain good
more than two years, unless kept in
the pod. Sweet Peas and Lupines
will, with difficulty, keep two years,
while the seeds of Prince’s Feather,
and of Poppies, will keep several
years. Larkspur seed will seldom
grow after the second or third year.
Notwithstanding the length of time
which some seeds will keep, it is
generally advisable to sow them as
soon after they are ripe as practi-
cable, as fresh seeds always vegetate
much sooner than old ones.

Seta ‘co.— Verbenacee.—S. dis-
tans is a pretty little greenhouse
plant, very easily cultivated, if it is
grown in sandy peat, and plenty of
water is given to it in hot weather,
not only to the roots, but by sy-
ringing it over head.

SELFHEAL.—See PRUNE’LLA.

| SEMPERVI'vUM.—Crassuldcee.—
| Houseleek.—Succulent plants, the
most beautiful of which are natives
of the Canary Islands, and require
to be kept in the greenhouse. They
should be grown in sandy loam,
mixed with lime rubbish, and the
pots should be well drained. They
require very little water, except
when about to flower; and they are
propagated by cuttings, which must
be laid to dry for some days before
they are planted. When’ potted,
they should neither have any water,
nor be covered with a glass; but
they may be plunged into a bed of

S
ti

;

SENECIO.

tan or dead leaves. The hardy
kinds are very suitable for rock-
work, and are increased by suckers
from the roots.

SEMEIA/NDRA.— Onagrariee—S.
grandiflora, the only species known,
is a slender shrub about six feet
high, with numerous scarlet flowers.
It is nearly allied to the Fuchsia,
but its flowers are so long and
narrow in their divisions, that they
look almost like bright scarlet
dragon-flies fluttering among the
leaves: the plant is a native of
Mexico, and first flowered in this
country in the summer of 1853.

.SENE'cIO.—Compésite.—A very
extensive genus, including many
plants which are quite worthless,
such as the Common British weed
called Groundsel (S. vulgaris) ;
many showy garden-flowers, such as
the Jacobea, or Purple Ragwort
(S. élegans); and even some hot-
house and greenhouse shrubs. Of
these one of the handsomest garden-
flowers isthe double purple Jacobza,
which is a native of the Cape of
Good Hope. It differs from the
common British Ragwort (S. Ja-
cobea), the flowers of which are
yellow, not only in its flowers, but
in its habits of growth. The seeds
of the purple Jacobzea should be
sown on a slight hotbed, and the
young plants removed to the open
borders in May; if kept during the
winter in a greenhouse, they will
become shrubby like Mignonette.
The tree groundsel, S. pracoz, has
yellow flowers, and large ivy-shaped
leaves. All the species of Senécio like
arather richloamy soil, kept open by
a mixture of sand or peat, and
most of them are hardy. There
are, however, a few Cape shrubs
belonging to the genus, which
require a greenhouse. According
to the new arrangement of the
Compésite by Professor De Can-

292

SHARP CEDAR.

dolle, nearly the whole of the
genus Cineraria has been incor-
porated in that of Senécio.—See
CrInERA‘RIA.

SENSITIVE PLant.—There are
several kinds cultivated in hot-
houses, but the most interesting are
Mimosa pudica, which has small
white ball-like flowers, and J,
sensitiva, with pink or lilac flowers,
both of which grow about a foot high,
and are natives of Brazil. There
is also another kind, a floatingaquatic
plant, with bright yellow double
flowers, a native of the tropics,
both in the Hast and West Indies.

SHAappDocK.—See Cr’rrvs.

SHADING is necessary to plants
after transplanting, to prevent the
evaporation from the leaves, which
takes place when the plants are
exposed to the full heat of the sun,
being greater than the roots can
supply moisture to support. Be-
sides this, partial shade is necessary
to many plants which cannot bear
the direct rays of the sun; such,
for example, as the Californian
annuals — plants which in their
native state grow in thick woods,
fens, &c. In these cases, however,
it is not necessary that the shade
should be so great as for newly-
transplanted plants. There is a
great deal of difference in plants,
with regard to their flowers, bearing
the direct rays of the sun. Some
require solar influence to make
them expand, such as all the kinds
of Mesembry4nthemum ;_ while
others, such as the Evening Prim-
rose, only unfold their flowers when
the sun withdraws its rays. Most of
the orchideous Epiphytes, which
grow in dense woods, succeed best
in hothouses glazed with green glass,
which affords them the requisite
degree of shade.

SHarp Crepar.—Acacia Oxjce-
drus.—See Aca’cra.

SHRUBBERY. 293 SHRUBBERY.

SHEEP LavurEn.—See Ka’imia. | to be rae of, only some general
SHEEP’S ScaBlous.—JasIo/NE. | directions can be given, or principles
SHEPHE’RDIA. — Eladgnee.— laid down, respecting the planting
Beautiful shrubs or low trees, with | of the shrubs and trees.
silvery leaves, which were formerly} lf we examine most of the shrub-
considered to belong to the genus beries in country residences, we
Hippophae. The silvery appearance | shall find that there is a general
of the leaves is produced by their | sameness in the appearance of the
outer surface being of a bluish green, | trees and shrubs with which they
and their lower surface lined with a | are planted, from one end of the
soft silky down of a snowy white-| shrubbery to the other. This
ness. The plants are natives of| sameness results from the mode
North America, and may be grown | commonly employed of mixing those
in peat or in very sandy loam. kinds of trees and shrubs that can
SHERA/RDIA.— Rubiacec. — Field | be most readily procured indiscri-
Madder. — Very pretty British | minately together. Some evergreens
weeds, which may be introduced |are distributed throughout the
with good effect on rock-work, whole, such as a few Hollies, and a
SHIFTING is the operation of | few Pines and Firs; Laurels, with
transferring plants grown in small|a few Roses, and perhaps a few
pots to other pots a little larger ; | Honeysuckles. The rest is made
and it is of very great advantage | up of the common mixture planted
when it is wished to keep plants | by contractors or jobbing gardeners
short and bushy. In shifting, the | on such occasions. The object is
ball of earth round the roots is not | merely to produce a_ plantation
broken, but placed in the centre of | which shall have some flowering
the new pot, and the earth filled in | shrubs in it, and some herbaceous

round it.—See Porrine. shrubs and Roses. If we examine
SINGLE OAK.—Quércus imbri-|the progress of such a plantation
cata. from the time it has been planted
SHRUBBY TREFOIL.—Ptélea tri- | till it has attained the age of
foliata.—See PrerEa. twenty or thirty years, we shall

SHRuBBY CINQUEFOIL.—Poten- | find that at the end of four or five
tilla frutic6sa.—See Porentr’Lua. | years the herbaceous plants will
SHRUBBERY.—A walk bordered | become choked up, and are either
by shrubs and trees with some | killed or rendered unsightly. In

flowers in front, is called a shrub- | six years the Roses will have ceased |

bery. In small villas it generally | to flower freely for want of light
leads from the house to the kitchen- | and air, and of manuring the soil ;
garden ; and sometimes goes round | and hence they will have become
the latter, or is conducted round | the very reverse of ornamental. In
an open lawn. The object in | ten years the finer shrubs will have

forming a shrubbery is to produce | been choked up by the coarser |

as great an extent of interesting kinds, and in twenty years almost
walk as the nature, extent, and all the shrubs will have vanished,

other circumstances of the place | ' having been destroyed by the trees,

will admit. There is then no | There is no way of preventing this
positive rule for either the length of result to a shrubbery planted in the
a shrubbery walk or its direction ; | usual manner, except by constant

and unless a given situation were | thinning; beginning in the third

ee SS SS ee
SU

SHRUBBERY.

294

SHRUBBERY.

year and removing all the herba-
ceous plants that have not sufficient
room and air and light to grow and
flower freely. The bulbs may be
left as long as they will grow;
because as they have but little
foliage, and that foliage is produced
early and soon dies off, they are,
under no circumstances, so dis-
agreeable in their appearance as
ill-grown common perennials. The
Roses should be removed whenever
they cease to flower vigorously ; and
all the other shrubs should be
thinned out when their branches
begin to interfere with one another.
Where the shrubbery is twenty or
thirty feet wide, every shrub should
be kept separate from every other
shrub, so as to be clothed with
branches from the ground upwards ;
or the shrubs should be encouraged
to grow in groups of different sizes,
each group being kept more or less
distinct from every other group.
It may be-thought that this mode
of keeping the single plants and
the groups distinct, will prevent the
shrubbery from serving as a screen ;
but this is a mistake; because
though the plants, by being placed
alternately, will admit the eye of
the spectator on the walk to see in
among them, which in passing along
a walk adds greatly to the variety
of its effect, yet this very circum-
stance will prevent the eye from
passing the boundary. Any person
may prove this by drawing circles
representing the shrubs or groups
on paper to a scale ; and supposing
the strip of plantation to be thirty
feet in width, and the circles some
of them to be five feet in diameter,
and some of them ten feet. The
style of planting and thinning so
as to keep each plant distinct, and
always about to touch but never
actually touching those around it,
is what Mr. Loudon called the gar-

denesque treatment of shrubberies
and plantations ; and the style of
grouping is called the picturesque
mode of planting and management.
These remarks may be considered as
directions for making the most of a
shrubbery already planted in the
common manner ; and, in so far as
thinning is considered, they will
equally apply to the mode of plant-
ing which is now about to be
described.

Planting shrubberies so as to pro-
duce variety in the aspect of the
plantation is to be effected by one
mode only, and that is to cause
one kind of tree or shrub always to
prevail in one place. In extensive
shrubberies this will require several
plants of the same species or variety
to be placed together ; but it occa-
sions no additional expense; be-
cause, in a common shrubbery at
least, the same number of plants of
one species would be planted, the
only difference being that they
would be placed in different parts
of the plantation. In a small
shrubbery perhaps not more than
one or two plants of a species or
variety might be required ; more
especially if the object were to
include as extensive a collection in
the shrubbery as could conveniently
be procured. There are almost a
thousand trees and shrubs, exclusive
of Roses, in British nurseries, which
may be purchased at moderate
prices; and all these may be used
in a shrubbery which contains no
more ground than a single acre.
Supposing that only one plant of a
kind is planted, and supposing that
each genus or natural order is kept
by itself, every part of the surface
of the plantation will be different
from that which precedes or follows
it ; and the greatest variety which
the case admits of will be produced.
So many plants planted on one acre

SHRUBBERY. 295 SHRUBBERY.

will, however, soon cover the soil ; | grown plants which are already in a
and therefore in three years after | state of perfection, and which have
planting, it will be necessary to | an air of grandeur and repose.

begin to thin them. The thinning} When a shrubbery is planted, and
in this case ought to be directed to|for some years afterwards, the

the removal of the commoner and| ground should be kept clear of |

coarser kinds. he most complete | weeds by hoeing or slight digging ;
shrubbery that can- be imagined |and the shrubbery should be sepa-
is one which should contain all the | rated from the walk by a verge of
larger trees distributed along it as | turf or of box. When the opposite
a background, with all the smaller | side of the walk is turf, such as a
trees in front ; next to these should | lawn, then the side next the shrubs
be the larger shrubs, then the| must have a verge of turf also; but
smaller shrubs, next the Roses, | where a walk passes through the
and finally in the front, apart from | middle of a shrubbery, box edgings
the Roses, should be the herbaceous| may be used on both sides. In

lants: thus forming a splendid | general, however, a grass verge is |
Pp b r=) ? 3 >

bank of vegetation on level ground.
To prevent such an arrangement
from becoming monotonous, it is
essentially necessary that it should
be combined with the natural system
of relationship between the kinds ;
and this ought to be carried out in
the Roses, and in the herbaceous
plants, no less than in the shrubs
and trees. To solve this problem
so as to carry the idea into execution,
is one of the nicest points for an ama-
teur landscape gardener to attempt.

All shrubberies whatever, how-

more appropriate to a scene con-
nected with the lawn ; and as not
calling up ideas of a kitchen-garden,

the beds are usually edged with
box. Whatever may be the width
of the gravel-walk, the grass verge
should not be narrower than two
feet, because less than that width
cannot always be kept in good
order ; such as neatly mown, level,
and with the margins clipped, but
not pared. Besides, a narrow verge
ever scientifically they may be|has an appearance of meanness,
planted and thinned out after- | and gives the idea of want of space.
wards, will ultimately become old, | As the shrubs spread over the
and entirely lose the character | ground, there will soon be scarcely
which they had during the first|any part of the interior of the
eight or ten years after planting. | shrubbery that will not be covered

Hence, in small places, which have | by their lower branches; and the |

been planted a certain number of | shrubs along the margin will extend
years, it is impossible to have a|their branches towards the verge,
shrubbery such as is here described, | and even spread over it. When
without removing the large trees| this is the case, which generally
and shrubs already existing ; and| happens in four or five years, all
this must necessarily depend on the | digging and hoeing becomes unne-
taste of the proprietor, and whether | cessary ; and the turf verge ought
a collection of young trees and | to be encouraged to extend in width
shrubs, which have a bare and new | under the branches of the plants,
look, but which will be continually | the Roses and herbaceous plants, if
increasing in beauty and magni-|any have been planted, being
tude, be preferred to a few full-|removed. This is a point in the

or of a small flower-garden, where |

greatly to be preferred, as being |

SHRUBBERY.

296

SIFTING.

management of shrubberies, which
is almost everywhere defective ; for

| the gardener generally continues
| cutting the inner edge of the verge

and digging the ground among the
herbaceous plants and the Roses,
till he has reduced the verge to
about six or eight inches in width
next to the walk, this being the
only part on which he will suffer
any grass to grow ; while the Roses

_ and herbaceous plants which have
_ long ceased to be either healthy or

ornamental are left to display their
stunted and naked branches, with
the dug earth for a background.
The constant digging and stirring
of the ground breaks off the branches
of the shrubs, and thus an unsightly
gap is created, which entirely
destroys all the pleasing ideas
excited by glades of smooth turf
appearing here and there to pene-
trate among the trees. To pro-
duce this latter effect, as the
branches of any of the shrubs begin
to spread over the verge, all digging
and paring ought to be left off, and
the grass encouraged to extend itself

_ into the bays and recesses of the

plantation. In like manner in a
shrubbery with the walks edged
with box, the box ought to be
removed whenever the branches
begin to spread over it, leaving no
edging to the walk at all except
what is formed by the retiring and
advancing of the branches of the
shrubs. This will form a walk
with what are called picturesque
edgings; but if a definite or a
gardenesque edging is required, it
may be formed of brick or stone.
On no account whatever ought any
kind of vegetable edging to be kept
up which does not grow freely; for

| it isa maxim in gardening which
| ought never to be forgotten, that

what cannot be grown well, ought
not to be grown at all.

SIBERIAN CraB.— Porus baccita,
and P. prunifolia. These trees,
though frequently grown in kitchen
gardens and orchards for their fruit,
deserve admission into ornamental
plantations for the beauty of their
Crabs when ripe.

SIBERIAN PEA TREE.—A hardy
flowering shrub.—See Caraca'na.

Sr'pa.--Malvacece. —Stove, green-
house, and hardy plants, natives of

the East and West Indies, and North |

America, with showy white, pink,
or yellow flowers, which they pro-
duce in great abundance.
grown in loam and peat, and gene-

rally ripen seeds ; by which, and by |

cuttings, they are readily increased.
SIDERO’XYLON.--Sapotee.—Iron-

wood. — Half-hardy and hardy |

shrubs, and low trees, natives of
America, the East Indies, and the
Cape of Good Hope. Some of the
species have been removed to Bu-
mélia and one species, a native of
Morocco, which is hardy in British
gardens, is now called Argania.

All the kinds should be grown in |

loam and peat; and they have all
small white or whitish-green flowers.

SIDE-SADDLE FLowER.—See Sak-
RACE'NIA.

SIEVES are necessary in garden-
ing to separate the stones and
coarser particles from the mould to
be used for potting and also for
cleaning seeds. Garden sieves for
mould should be made with deep

wooden rims, but for seeds the |
wooden rim may be more shallow; |

in both cases the wires, or toile
métallique, through which the mould
is to pass, should be firmly attached
to the rim, the holes or interstices
not being more than the fourth of
an inch in diameter.

SIFTING is the operation of pass-
ing any kind of soil through a
sieve or screen to deprive it of its
coarser particles; and some gar-

They are |

See

)

a

SINGLE TREES.

97

SINGLE TREES,

deners sift most of the soil they use , or character of tree or shrub it in one
forpotting. Sifting, however, should | | place. For example, if conical trees

be used with caution ; ; as most
plants thrive better when the par-
ticles of soil are not too fine. Turfy
loam, for example, should generally
be chopped small with a spéde or
trowel, and not sifted; and peat
should not be deprived of the vege-
table fibre in which it abounds.
Sifted earth, when of a loamy nature,
is very apt to cake together and to
become impenetrable to the finer
roots of plants.

SmmE'NE. —Silendcee or Caryo-
phyllacee.—The Catchfly.— Well-
known annual and perennial plants,

| many of whith are natives of Britain,

with flowers something like those of
the Pink. They are nearly all
quite hardy, and only require the
common treatment of their respec-
tive kinds. Lobel’s Catchfly (S.
Arméria) is &® common garden
annual that requires sowing in the
open ground in March or April.
Silene Schafta is a very ornamental
hardy perennial introduced in 1846.

| It is a dwarf plant, with abundance

of bright crimson flowers, which
continue from June to October.

Sitk TREE.—Acdcia Julibrissin.
—See Acacta.

SINGLE TREES ANDSINGLE SHRUBS
are the grand sources of variety in
a lawn or park, where the surface
is flat and without any other re-
sources ; and they are also, when
judiciously disposed, valuable addi-

| tions to a surface naturally varied
| by undulations.

The great art in
putting down single trees is, to dis-
pose them so as to form groups
when seen from a distance, and yet
so as to produce variety in every
change of position in the spectator
when near. The kinds of trees
andshrubs may be varied at pleasure,
provided some attention be paid to

be distributed equally over the
grounds, along with round-headed
trees, they will produce great same-
ness ; but if conical trees prevail in
one place, round-headed trees in
another, and ftat-spreading trees in
a third, so many distinct characters
will be produced. The same may
be said as to shrubs. The sure
mode of proceeding on right prin-
ciples is to take the different genera,
and allow only the species and

Pas ss 73 y

FIG. 49.—PROTECTING BY FAGGOTS.

varieties of one genus to prevail in
one place. Single trees should
always be planted in prepared soil
raised in heaps a foot or more above
the general surface ; so that after a
year or two, when the earth has
settled down, the tree may stand on
a little hillock. The trees before
planting should be ten feet or
twelve feet in height, with trunks
three inches or four inches in
diameter at the surface of the
ground. The shrubs should also be
of as large a size as will transplant

the prevalence of one general form} with ease and a fair prospect of

2)
|

| cording to the kind of shrub. Ever-

298 SINGLE TREES.

SINGLE TREES.

To protect single trees from the
wind, various modes have been
adopted; one of the simplest of
which consists in driving a stake
into the ground much deeper than

success, and this size will vary ac-

green trees of the Pine and Fir
tribe, and of the Cypress tribe, the |
beauty of which depends on their

spreading branches, should either the roots of the tree, and tying the |

be planted in a situation where no | trunk to it with a hayband; care
fence is requisite, or they should be | being taken not to injure the roots

surrounded with iron hurdles or)
some other light fence placed five or |
six feet from the stem of the tree, |
and extended to a greater distance |
as the lateral branches advance in |
length ; but broad-leaved trees, such |
as most of the Exogens, may be

_ protected by fences placed close to |
the stem. There are various modes

of doing this: jig. 49 shows the |

| mode of protecting by tying thorn |

FIG. 50.—PROTECTING BY LATHS.

| branches round the stem, as prac-

tised in the Regent’s Park, London,
and various other places.

Fig. 50 shows a mode of protect-
ing trees from sheep by tying laths
round them with wire.

tion, a@ represents the stem of the
tree, 6 the wire, and ¢ the laths.

FIG. 51.—NEWLY-PLANTED TREE.

in driving in the stake. There is
another mode of fixing a tree, which
serves also to protect it; and this
consists in driving two pieces of
wood into the ground, with their
lower extremities spread out, and
their upper ones tied to the tree.

In planting single trees, and in-
deed trees of every kind, the greatest
possible care should be taken to place
them so high above the surface, as
that after they have sunk down, as
they will do in a few years, they

\

| |
$i

FIG, 52.—FULL-GROWN TREE.

may still appear to stand on a little
hillock, or to grow out of a small
mound. If we examine thriving
trees in a natural wood, we shall

In the hori- always find that the collar—that

zontal section, and also in the eleva- |

is, the point of junction between

the stem and the roots—rises above |
_the general surface, so as to form a

SIPHONIA.

299

SMILAX.

little hillock. On the other hand, | cipally produced by the Siphdnia
if we examine trees in artificial | Cahwchu, a native of Guiana. The

plantations, in which the soil has
been deeply trenched, we shall gene-
rally find that, though they have
been planted at first level with the
surface, they will, after a certain
number of years, have sunk con-
siderably below the surface; or if
care has been taken to keep the
ground about them level, by adding
fresh soil as the surface sinks, they
will appear with their collars com-
pletely buried, and their trunks
rising out of the soil like so many
posts driven into it by art, in-
stead of springing from a wooden
base, rising above the soil like trees
and shrubs in a natural forest, or
on a common. In planting single
trees, therefore, hillocks should at
first be raised to a height which will
for a year or two appear quite un-
natural, as shown in jig. 51, in which
may be observed a small hollow at
the base of the stem for retaining
water; but they will soon sink down
to the appearance shown in jig. 52.

SINNI'NGIA.—Gesneraceee.—Stove-
plants with large bell-shaped flowers.
Theyshould begrown in lightrich soil.

SrpHoca’MPyLos.—Lobeliacee.—
A suffruticose plant, with red and
green tube-shaped flowers. It is
generally kept in the greenhouse,
but it is nearly hardy. It should
be grown in heath-mould, and it is

species requires a stove in England;
and it grows freely in peat, loam, and
sand. It is propagated by cuttings
of the young wood in sand, with a
bell-glass and bottom-heat.

SisyRl’NcHIUM.—Jridew.—Beau-
tiful little plants resembling bulbous
plants in their flowers, but with
fibrous roots. They are all natives
of America, and they should be
grown in sandy peat.

SkKr’MMia. — Awrantiacee. — A

very fragrant shrub, with spikes of |

small white flowers, and bright red
berries ; the leaves are evergreen,
smooth and shiny, and they are as
fragrant as the flowers. S. japonica,
the only species yet known, was in-
troduced by Mr. Fortune, and first
flowered in this country in March,
1853.

SKOLL-capP.—See ScuTELLA‘RIA,

SLIPPER-WORT. — See CALCEO-
LA‘RIA.

Stues.—See Li/Max.

Smr'Lax.—Smildacee.—Evergreen
monocotyledonous, dicecious, climb-
ing shrubs, with curiously ribbed
leaves, and numerous tendrils, which
they twine round every object with-
in their reach. The roots are thick
and fleshy, and from them (and
particularly those of one species)
the drug called sarsaparilla is made.
The flowers are small and whitish ;

propagated by cuttings, which should | and those of the female plants are
be dried a little before they are | succeeded by red or black berries.

planted.

SipHo'nra. — Euphorbiacee. —
The American India-rubber tree.
—The first elastic gum brought to
Europe was the produce of the Ficus
eldstica ; and as this plant isa native
of the East Indies, the substance was
thence called India-rubber. It has
since been found that several trees
produce it; and the Caoutchouc used
for the Macintosh cloaks, &c., is prin-

The handsomest species is S. rubens,
the tendrils of which are of a bright
red ; and the next is S. excélsa, from
the large size of its leaves. All the
species may be grown in the common
garden soil; but they should be
planted in a shady situation, and
kept rather moist. S. China and
some other species are rather tender,
and require protection from severe
frosts.

ra)
S/ ba

SOILS. 300 SOLIDAGO.

Snatts.—See He'irx. of the primitive earths ; but loam,
SNAIL-FLOWER.—Phaséolus Ca- which is compounded of the crum-

_ racdlla,—A climbing plant, a native | bling surface of the clay, mixed with

_ China, and it should be grown in
a frame like a common Cucumber

of India, with lilac flowers, nearly | decayed animal and vegetable sub-

allied to the Scarlet-runner. _ stances, isa soil. Inthe like manner,

SNAKE-GoURD. — TZvrichosdnthes | lime is an earth, but chalk isa soil.
anguina.—A very curious plant, | When several kinds of soil are mixed
with white flowers, every petal of | together, and intermingled with
which appears surrounded with long manures, the mixture is called a
knotted fringe. The leaves and ten- compost. All soils which contain
drils resemble those of the common | a considerable portion of sand or
Cucumber ; but the fruit is curiously | peat are called light; and all soils
striped, and is so long and narrow as | containing sand and clay are called
to resemble a snake. Specimens loamy. What is called a light rich
have indeed been grown more than soil is generally composed of very
six feet long, and not thicker than | sandy loam, mixed with vegetable
the body of a common snake. The | mould, or the sifted remains of an
plant is an annual, a native of | old hotbed.

Soua‘num. — Solandcee. —- The
Nightshade.—The flowers of the
or Melon. It is of no use, and} plants belonging to this extensive
only worth cultivating as an object | genus all more or less resemble

_ of curiosity. those of the common climbing Night-
| §NAKE-woop.—Ceandthus colu- | shade, or Bitter-sweet of the hedges,
brinus. | and indeed those of the Potato, which
SNAPDRAGON.—See ANTIRRHI’- | belongs to this genus. They are all
NUM. | rather pretty, but their foliage is too
SNOWBALL TREE.—See Vibv’R- | coarse to be ornamental. S. campa-
NUM. _nulatum is perhaps the handsomest

SNOWBERRY.— See SympuHort-| species. Some of the species require

| CA‘RPUS. |a stove, others the greenhouse, and

SnowpDRop.—See GAua'nTHUS. — others the open air; but they all
SNOWDROP TREE.—See HALeE'stA. | agree in liking a rich light soil, and
SNOWFLAKE.—See Levco'sum. they all grow well in a mixture of

Soap-BERRY.—See Sapi’npus. — loam and peat, enriched with vege-
Soap-wort.—See Sapona‘riA. _— table mould.
Sorts are of two kinds, the sur-| SoLpaneE/LLa. — Primulacee. —

face soils, and the subsoils; the | Beautiful little alpine plants, very
first being what are generally under- | suitable for rock-work, some with

_ stood by the word soils, and the | purple, and some with blue flowers.

second being properly designated | They should be grown in heath-
earths. Soils, according to this | mould, or in peat mixed with very

_ definition, consist of the crumbling | sandy loam; and they are increased
surface of one of the primitive | by seeds, or by dividing the root.
' earths, mixed with decayed animal | They are generally grown in small

or vegetable matter, and perhaps | pots, and they should neither have
with particles of some other earth | too much nor too little water.

which may have been washed down K Soxrrpa'co.—Compésite.—Golden
by rains, or otherwise accidentally | Rod.—Perennial plants, quite hardy
mingled with it. Thus, clay is one | in British gardens, where they flower

——— SS a aia oe

SOLOMON’S SEAL.

301

SOWING.

in autumn. They are too tall for| So’ncHus. — Compésite. — The
any small garden, and they are only | Sow Thistle-—The common herba-

suitable for the back row of a flower-
border. They will grow in any
common garden soil, and they are
increased by dividing the root.
So’Liya.—Pittosporacee.—This
beautiful little shrub, though only
introduced in 1830, is already as
common as the Fuchsia, and it is a
favourite everywhere. The leaves
are evergreen, and the bright blue
bell-shaped flowers, which are pro-
duced in tufts near the ends of the
branches, are so elegant that no
one can see them without admiring
them. The plant is a native of
New Holland ; and it is so nearly
hardy, that it will stand in the open
air if trained against a wall, and
slightly protected during winter. It
is, however, generally grown in pots,
in which the only objection to its
culture is the circumstance of its
haying the tips of its shoots fre-
quently covered with aphides, the
only cure for which is constant
syringing. In the open air it is
liable to the attacks of a black in-
sect similar in its nature to the
aphis, but still more disagreeable.
It should be grown in peat and
loam, or in heath-mould, and it is
propagated by seeds or cuttings.
The fruit, which is a berry full of
seeds, ripens freely; but the cuttings
are very difficult to strike, and in-
deed will rarely succeed without
bottom-heat. Besides Séllya hete-
rophylla, which is the common
kind, two or three other kinds have
been introduced by Captain Mangles
from the Swan River.
x Soromon’s SEAL.—Polygénatum
vulgare, and P. multiflorum.—A
hardy perennial, which will grow
freely in any common garden soil.
The English name alludes to the
roots, which, when cut through, have
the appearance of Hebrew characters.

ceous species is a British weed; but
there are two or three shrubby kinds
from Madeira and the Canary Isles,
with yellow flowers, which are very
ornamental. They should be kept
in a greenhouse, and grown in light
rich soil.

SopHo'ra.— Leguminose. —The

common Sophora japonica isa large |
tree which grows freely in the neigh- |

bourhood of London, and produces
its large bunches of cream-coloured
flowers in August and September.
The drooping Sophora, however,
though only considered a variety of
this tree, is very distinct.
trailing shrub, sending out shoots
six feet or eight feet long in a single
season ; and when it is grafted on a
stock of S. japonica, ten feet or
twelve feet high, these long sweep-
ing shoots, the bark of which isa
bright green, have a_ peculiarly
graceful appearance. The Sophora
will grow in any soil, but a poor

Itisa .

one suits it better than a rich one; |

and its leaves seldom droop even in
the driest seasons.
SouTHERNWOOD. — See
MI’STIA.
Sowine.—The operation of com-
mitting seeds to the soil in flower-
gardening, is commonly done in

ARTE-

patches ; but sometimes flowers are |
sown broadcast or in drills, and |

occasionally singly. When annuals
are to be grown in borders contain-
ing a miscellaneous assemblage of
flowers, they are commonly sown in
small circular patches, in intervals
left on purpose among the peren-
nials, or among the Roses and other
low shrubs. Each patch is prepared
by digging up a spadeful of the soil
and returning it to its place with
the surface downwards; then break-
ing it finely, and levelling and
smoothing the surface; and lastly

depressing,

SOWING.

30

9)

and

SPARTIUM.

or "slightly “hollowing |

i“ firmed,” as the gardeners term is

out a Grele from three to six machen by gently beating the ground flat
_ in diameter, and from a quarter to |

half an inch in depth, according to
the size of the seeds to be sown.
As most seeds germinate best when
gently pressed into the soil, a very

_ good mode for amateurs is to take
| the saucer of a flower-pot, of the

diameter of the patch, and gently
press down the soil; and then to
strew a few seeds on the level sur-
face thus formed. MHalf-a-dozen

| seeds will be sufficient, of even the

| Cruckshdnksii and L.
_ will not require more than a single
| seed.
| and of all the commoner kinds, the

smallest growing plants, if the seeds
are good. The next operation is to
sprinkle a little fine soil over the

seeds, so as to cover them to about |

the same depth as the seed is thick.

After this, the saucer should be |

again applied, so as to press down
the soil and the seeds together ; and
if there be any danger apprehended
from birds or drought, an empty
flower-pot should be turned over
the patch till the plants come up.
The larger seeds of flowers, such as
Lupines, Sweet Peas, &c., may be

| sown three or four in a patch ; and

some kinds of Lupines, such as Z.
mutdabilis,

In the case of large seeds,

use of the saucer for preparing the
ground, and of the empty flower-pot
aS a protection, may be dispensed
with.

In sowing broadcast, the bed or
space to be covered being stirred up
with the spade, and raked fine on the
surface, should be gently smoothed

| afterwards :

with the spade. For ordinary seeds,
raking the surface smooth before
sowing, and after sowing, again
raking it, will be found sufficient ;
and the raking should always be
light in proportion to the smallness’
of the seeds. In sowing grass seeds
to form a lawn, the ground should
be beaten equally firm throughout,
to prevent it from sinking unequally
and after it has been
rendered perfectly smooth and even,
the seeds should be sown quite

| thick, and raked in so gently, that
| the teeth of the rake may not pene-

trate more than half an inch into

_ the soil.

with the back of the spade, and the |

seeds afterwards strewed over it, so
as to lie, if the seed be good, at an
inch or two apart, or less, if the
plants are to be thinned out or
transplanted. The seeds may then
be covered by strewing over them

Sowing in drills, or little furrows
drawn by the hoe, is chiefly required
for edgings; and as the plants suited
to this purpose are small, and also
the seeds, great care ought to be
taken to distribute them equally,
and not to cover them with too
mauch earth.

SpanisH BRoom.—Spdrtium jain-
ceum.—See Spa’RTIUM.

Spara‘xis.—Jridew.— Beautiful
bulbous plants, that will flower
vigorously if grown in a_ well-
drained bed in the open air.—For
the mede of forming the bed, see
I’xta.

Spa/RTIUM.—Legumindse.—The
Spanish Broom.—aA well-known up-
right shrub, with upright deep-green
branches, and very few leaves, which
soon drop off. The flowers, which
are in terminal racemes, are large,
and of a deep yellow. It is a native
of Spain and Portugal, and, in short,
of the whole of the South of Europe,
where it grows in rocky situations,
and in dry gravelly soils. In En-
gland it produces a good effect in a
shrubbery, and it will grow vigo-
rously wherever the soil is gravelly

some fine mould ; and this may be! or sandy ; but it does not thrive in

SNe es a ee a ee

SPIRAA.

303

STAPELIA.

clay, as it has a long tap-root, which | soil, having a poor and stunted

it can only send down where the soil
is free. It is generally propagated
by seeds.

SpataLa’NTHuS.—Jridec.—The
Ribbon-flower.—A very handsome
bulbous plant, requiring the usual
treatment of Cape bulbs. —See I’xra.

SPEEDWELL.—See VERO’NICA.

SpHa’/anum.— Cryptogamia.—A
kind of Moss.

SPHENO’/GYNE. — Compésite. —
Beautiful annual plants, which only
require sowing in March or April,
in any common garden soil.

SprpeR O‘pHRys.—See O'pHrys.

SPIDERWORT.—See TRADESCA’N-
TIA,

SPINDLE-TREE.—See Evo/NyMus.

Sprrm'a.— Rosaceew, — Hardy
shrubs, generally natives of Siberia,
with very pretty flowers. The
handsomest kinds are S. chame-
drifolia, with spike-like corymbs
of white flowers; S. ulmefolia,
with flat corymbs of white flowers,
and large handsome leaves; S. hy-
pericifolia, or Italian May; S.
salicifolia, Bridewort, or Queen’s
Needle-work, with spikes of pinkish
flowers; S. bella, a native of Nepaul,
with corymbs of beautiful rose-
coloured flowers, which it produces
in May and June; 8. opulifolia,
the Virginian Guelder Rose, or Nine
Bark, a native of North America,
with corymbs of rather large white
flowers; S. ariefolia, a most beau-
tiful species, a native of California,
with loose panicles of feathery
whitish flowers, which it produces
in July and August; and S. sorbi-
folia, with loose panicles of white
flowers and pinnate leaves, from
Siberia. S. grandiflora has white
flowers, nearly as large as those of
a wild rose. It was introduced in
1854, by Mr. Fortune, from the
north of China.
grow with most luxuriance in moist

All the kinds}

appearance where the soil is dry
and gravelly ; and they are readily
propagated by suckers, which they
throw up in great abundance.
Sprra’NTHES. — Orchidaceee. —
Ladies’ Traces.— Mostly tropical
plants, which require a moist stove.
—See Orncu1pEous EpipHyvTeEs.
SPLEENWORT. — Aspléenium. —
Very beautiful Ferns, which differ
very much in their appearance,
though they are all very handsome.
They require, like all other Ferns,
to be grown in moist shady places.
Spo’npias. — Terebinthacee. —
The Hog-plum.—West Indian trees,
which require a stove in England.
SPREKE'LIA.— A maryllid acee.—
The Jacobeea Lily.— A bulbous-rooted
plant, with splendid dark scarlet
flowers. It is called Jacobea on
account of the brilliant scarlet of
its flowers, which the Spaniards in
Peru thought resembled the scarlet
sword-cases worn by the knights of
the order of St. James (Jacobeus).
—For the culture, see AMARY’LLIS.
SpurcE.—See EupHo’RBIA.
SpurceE Lavuret.—See Da’PuHne.
SQuILL.—See Scr’Lua.
SquirtinGe CucuMBER. —See Mo-
MO’RDICA.
Sra’cuys.—Labitte.—The Hedge
Netile.—Shrubby and herhaceous
plants, natives of Europe and North
America, which will grow freely in
any light rich soil, and which are
increased by cuttings or division of
the root.
STAF£-TREE.—See Ceua’stRvs.
Srae’s-Horn.—See Ruv’s.
STANHO'PEA. — Orchidacee. —
Beautiful orchideous plants, with
large white flowers proceeding from
the root.—For the culture, see Or-
CHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.
StaPe'Lia.—A sclepiadece.—Very
curious stove-plants, with showy
flowers proceeding from the root,

|

|

STATICE.

304

STEPHANOTIS.

which smell so much like carrion,
that flesh-flies have been known to
lay their eggs upon them. As these
plants are very succulent, they are
apt to drop off if they are grown in
rich soil, or too much watered.
They succeed best in sandy loam
mixed with lime rubbish, and they
are propagated by cuttings, which
should be laid on a shelf for two or

three days to shrivel before they are |

planted. The plants from which

the cuttings are taken should be |
kept quite dry for some time after- |

| wards, as they are apt to rot from

the wound. All the Stapélias are
natives of the Cape of Good Hope.
STaPHYLE'A.—Celastrinee.—The
Bladder Nut.—Hardyshrubs, natives
of England and North America, that
will grow freely in any common gar-
den soil. The flowers are white ; and
the seed, which is brown, is produced
in a large inflated capsule or bladder.
The seeds, when bored, are used in
Catholic countries for rosaries.
Star OF BETHLEHEM.—See Or-

| NITHO’GALUM.—Inthe midland coun-

|

ties the large yellow Hypéricum is
called the Star of Bethlehem.

Srarwort.—One of the English
names for the A’sTER.

Sra/tice. —Plumbaginee. —Sea
Lavender.—Singular plants, the foot-
stalks of the flowers of which are
coloured so as to resemble flowers,
while the real flowers are the white
part at the extremity of the purple.
This is very conspicuous in S, arbo-
ved, a native of the Canaries, which is

quite shrubby. This splendid plant |

should have plenty of room for its
roots ; and thus when there is not
a conservatory for it to be planted
in, it does better in the open border,
with a slight protection during win-

| ter, than in a pot in a greenhouse.
| The soil in which it is grown should

be half sandyloam and half vegetable
mould. It is extremely difficult to

raise young plants by cuttings; and
though nurserymen contrive to make
layers, 1t is so difficult an operation,
as to be scarcely practicable by an
amateur. The common kinds of Sta-
tice are generally increased by seeds,
or by dividing the roots ; and they
should be allowed plenty of space, as

_ they are easily killed when crowded |

by other plants. Statice Dicken-

soniana, has bright rose-coloured |

flowers which remain a great length
of time uninjured after the flower is
cut, like the different species of He-

lichrysum or Everlasting. The spe- |

cies is a native of the Cape of Good |
Hope, whence it was introduced in |

1844. In Great Britain, it is a
greenhouse plant. Statice Fortuni,
S. imbricata, and S. frutéscens, are
very handsome species, all of which
have been introduced since 1845.

STELLA‘RIA. — Caryophgllee.— |

Stitchwort. — Very pretty plants,
with white flowers, many of which
are natives of Britain. They areall
quite hardy, but they grow best in
sandy soil. The dwarf kinds are
very suitable for rock-work. They
are propagated by seeds, which they
ripen freely, or by division of the
roots.
Srena’cris.—Compéosite.—S. spe-
cidsa is a very showy perennial, with
large and very handsome flowers. It

is a native of California, and will |

grow in any common garden soil. It
is increased by seed, or by dividing
the roots.

Stenocur'Lus. — Myopérine. —
Australian shrubs, with scarlet flow-
ers, which should be grown in sandy
peat.

Srenome'sson.—A maryllidacee.
—Bulbous plants, natives of Mexico.
S. Hartwégii has very pretty orange-
coloured flowers.

SrepHano'ris. — A sclepiadacee.
—8. floribémda, is a stove climber,
with very dark-green, leathery leaves,

STIRRING THE SOIL.

curiously bent at the tip, and large
umbels of delightfully fragrant white
flowers. It should be grown in peat
and loam, and it produces its flowers
in spring and early summer.

STERCU’LIA. — Bytineriacee. —
Stove shrubs and low trees from the
East and West Indies, with greenish
or whitish flowers. They should be
grown in peat and loam, and they are
propagated by cuttings of the ripe
wood, not deprived of their leaves,
which should bestruck in sand, under
a bell-glass with bottom-heat.

Sre'v1a.—Compésite.— Mexican
perennials, with tufts of very pretty
white or pinkish flowers, which should
be grown in sandy peat, and which
require a little protection during win-
ter. S. Bupotoria is a very pretty
plant for filling a bed in a geometric
flower-garden, from itscompact habit
of growth, and the abundance of its
flowers.

Srr'pa.—Graminee.—Stipa pen-
nata, the Feather-grass, is an ex-
tremely elegant plant which grows
freely in light rich soil, and is in-
creased by seed, or by division of the
root.

STIRRING THE SOIL is an operation
of considerableimportance in the case
of all plants in a high state of culture,
and especially of young plants. When
soil is loosened to the depth of even
two or three inches, it admits the air
and the rain beneath the surface, and
both, in this manner, convey their
temperature to the soil, as well as
their nutritive qualities to the roots.
It is alsoremarkable that though soil,
when loosened, is advantageous in
communicating a warmer tempera-
ture and moisture to what is below
by admitting the air and the rain, yet
that in the heat of summer, plants
growing ina soil the surface of which
is kept loose, suffer less either from
excess of heat or the want of rain
than plants in a soil which is kept

ep NN NC, ANI CN LOL LDL! SAA

305

STRAMONIUM.

firm. This will also apply to a cer-
tain extent to plants in pots, though
stirring the soil is of far less import-
ance to them than to plants in the
open ground; as the heat of the
surrounding atmosphere, whether it
be advantageous or injurious, pene-
| trates readily through the sides of
the pots, and the superfluous moisture
is exhaled in the same manner. In
stirring the soil among plants in the
open ground, it must, however, be
always remembered that the soil is
full of roots, and therefore that the

stirring must not be carried to more |

than a few inches in depth.

te |

should also be performed with a fork |
rather than a spade, in order that —

none of the roots may be cut. The
soil should never be stirred, except

when it is in a dry state, and when |
rain is not expected ; because should |

the soil be in a wet state when it is

moved, or should rain occur imme- |
diately afterwards, it will defeat the |

end in view, viz. that of forming a

porous surface layer, readily per- |

meable by air and water.
StrrrcHwort.—See STELLA‘RIA.
Srock.—See Martrur'ona.
STOKESIA.—Compésite.—One of

the handsomest plants which can |

be grown in the flower-beds of a |
garden ; from its large bluish lilac |

flowers. It bears considerable re-
semblance to a China Aster, but is
much handsomer. It is a native of
South Carolina, whence it was intro-
duced nearly a hundred years ago,
but it is very little known.

STONE-crop.—See Sx‘puM.

Sroot.—A tree or shrub which
has its branches pressed down to
make layers.—See jig. 53.

Srorax.—See Sry‘rax.

Stove. — The name given the
plant-houses used for keeping tropical
plants.—See Hornousss.

Stramo‘nium. — Solandcee. —
The Thorn Apple.—Large showy

x

oe

STRELITZIA.

306

STYRAX.

plants, conspicuous alike for their
leaves, flowers, and fruit. They

_ grow best in chalk or a calcareous

FIG. 53.—A STOOL, WITH SEVERAL OF
THE SHOOTS LAYERED.

loam ; and they are so completely
hardy in Britain, and grow so freely
from seed, that the common kind has
become naturalised, and is fre-
quently found growing wild. When
these plants are grown in gardens,
they should be allowed plenty of

| room, as their principal beauty is the

wide-spreading and luxuriant cha-
racter of their foliage.
STRANVZ'SIA. — Rosacece. — The
new name for Crate‘gus glatica, an
evergreen tree, a native of Nepaul,
with glaucous leaves, woolly beneath,
and white flowers. It appears to be

| hardy, or very nearly so, and it is

very handsome. It is generally pro-
pagated by grafting on the common
Hawthorn.

STRAWBERRY Buiire.—See Bur'-
TUM.

STRAWBERRY TREE.—See A’R-
BUTUS,

Srrewi’tz1a.—Musacee.—Mag-
nificent plants with large long leaves,
and very large and singular-looking
orange and purple flowers. They are
generally grown ina stove, but they
will flower in a greenhouse or room
if kept sufficiently moist. They
should be grown in light sandy loam.

They are very difficult to propagate, -
but they sometimes send up suckers,
and sometimes ripen seeds.
STREPTANTHE RA. — Iridew. —
Cape bulbs with very showy flowers ;
which may be grown either in pots,

or in beds in the open air.—For the |

culture, see I’xra.
STREPTOCA’RPUS. —Bignoniacee.

| —A very handsome perennial plant

from South Africa, which requires a
stove in Exgland ; but which, when
properly treated, produces its beauti-
ful and elegant pale purple flowers in
great abundance. It is nearly allied
to Gloxinia, but it has twisted seed-
pods. It should be grown in equal
parts of peat, loam, and sand; and it
is increased by seeds, which it ripens
freely.

Stua/ReTra.— Ternstremiacece.—
A North American shrub or low tree,
with large white flowers, nearly allied
to Malachodéndron. It will grow in
any common garden-soil that is toler-
ably light, and it flowers freely. It
is propagated by layers or cuttings.
—See MALacHoDE’NDRON.

SryrLrD1ium.—Stylidew.—Austra-
lian shrubs and perennials, generally
kept in a greenhouse, with small
pinkish or purple flowers, thestamens
of which are irritable, and move
when touched. All the species should
be grown in sandy peat, or heath-
mould ; and the perennials are pro-
pagated by seeds or division of the
root, and the shrubby species by
cuttings.

STYLOPHORUM. — Papaveracee.
—A native of the woods in the
western part of the United States of
North America; beautiful golden
yellow flowers and glaucous leaves.

SrypHe'Lia.—Lpacridacee. —S.
tubiflora is avery elegant little plant,
anativeof thesouth-eastof Australia.
It requires only the usual treatment
of the E’pacris tribe.

Sty‘rax. —Styracine. —Storax.

|

SUMACH.

30

-

4 SWEET WILLIAM.

—Ornamenial shrubs, with white
flowers, natives of Europe and North |
America, which grow best in sandy |
peat or heath-mould, and flower |
freely. They are propagated by |
layers.

Succory. — Cichdrium I’ntybus
is a British plant, with brilliant blue
flowers, which grows freely in sandy |
soils, and which may be grown with
the greatest ease in gardens.

SuccuLentT PLants are those
which have both their stems and
leaves provided with so few stomata,
as to be able to retain a great portion
of the moisture which is evaporated
by other plants. These plants are
generally natives of sandy deserts,
where for half the year they are
entirely destitute of water, and where
their capability of retaining moisture
is necessary to keep them alive.
When grown in Europe, they are
well adapted for sitting-rooms, as
they are capable of bearing a greater
degree of dryness in the air than
most other plants; but they are very
liable to be injured by too much
water, as in the cloudy atmosphere
of England their stomata are not
sufficiently numerous to enable them
to throw it off, and it rots them, or,
as gardeners expressit, they damp off.
All succulent plants, when grown in
pots, should have abundant drain-
age, and should never be suffered to
stand with water in the saucer; and
the soil in which they are grown
should be mixed with sand or lime-
rubbish to keep it open, and in a
state fit for their roots to penetrate
through it.

SUFFRUTICOSE PLANTS are those
which are shrubby at the base, but
herbaceous in the upper part of the
stem; such as the common Wall-
flower, the Brompton or Queen Stock,
Ibéris sempervirens, &e.

SUGAR-CANE.—See Sa’coHaRUM.

Sumacu.—See Ruv’s.

SUMMER CyPrReEss.—See Ko'cnrra.
SunDEW.—See Dro’/sera.
SUNFLOWER.—See HeLtA’/NTHUs.
SunROSE.—See HELIA/NTHEMUM.
SUTHERLA’/NDIA. — Leguminose.
—A pea-flowered shrub, with scarlet
flowers, formerly called Colitec fru-

_téscens ; a native of the Cape of

Good Hope, which is half-hardy in
British gardens, and which should
be grown in sandy loam.

Swarnso'nla. — Legumindse. —
Pea-flowered shrubs, natives of Aus-
tralia, with purplish flowers, which
should be kept in a greenhouse,
and grown in heath-mould.—See
AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

SWALLOW-WortT. — See AscLE'-
PIAS, and CHELIDO‘NIUM.

Sweet Bay.—See Lav’Rus.

Sweet Brrar.—See Ro'sa,

Sweet GaLe.—See Myrr'‘ca.

SwEET MarsornaM.—See Orr’Ga-
NUM.

Sweet Prea.—See La’tHynvs.

Sweet Porato.— Batdtas edulis.
—A tuberous-rooted plant formerly
considered to belong to Convélvulus,
then to Ipomee'a, but now separated
from both. It is a native of South
America, where it is called Batatas ;
and it requires a stove in England.

Sweet Sop, or Custard Apple.—
See Ano‘na.

Sweet Suttan.—See AMBERBO'A
and CENTAURE'A.

Sweer Witi1aM.—Didnthus bar-
batus.—This plant is quite hardy in
British gardens. The flowers are pro-
ducedin large clusters, each separate
flower resembling a small Chinese
Pink, except in the calycine scales
or bracts, which are very long and
sharply pointed. Some of the va-
rieties are very beautiful, particularly
those with deep rose-coloured flowers,
and one the flowers of which are white,
spotted with pale pk. The finest
varieties I ever saw of thisplant were
in Scotland, at Milton-Lockhart, on

x2

an

RS a

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SYRINGA. 3

08

TALAUMA,

the Clyde, where the Sweet Williams
were so beautiful as almost to deserve
totakerank as florists’ flowers. Some
of the varieties are more fragant than
others. The Sweet William, though
a perennial, is nota long-lived plant,
particularly in London or any other
large town, or if the soil be very
moist or very dry; and it seldom
flowers well after the second year.
The plant does best when treated as
a biennial.

SympHo'R1a.— Caprifoliacece. —
St. Peter’s Wort.—Bushy, deciduous
shrubs, which grow so freely in any
common garden soil, and send up so
many suckers, that when once planted
it is difficult to eradicate them. The
flowers of S. glomerdata are produced
in clusters, and the berries are small
andreddish. S. racemosa, theSnow-
berry, has pinkish flowers, which are
disposed in such loose racemes as to
appear almost solitary, and whichare
succeeded by large white berries
which are very ornamental. There
is another species, S. occidentdlis,
with very large leaves and drooping
racemes of flowers, which has not yet
been introduced. S. microphyllus is
a Mexican species, with very small
leaves, pink flowers, and pink berries.
All the kinds are natives of North
America. S. racemosa is sometimes
grafted on Lonicera Xylésteum, to
avoid the inconvenience of its nu-
merous suckers.

SYMPHORICA’RPUS. — Michaux’s
name for the Snowberry.—See Sym-
PHO'RIA,

SYNGENESIOUS PLANtTs,—Plants
belonging to the 19th class of the
Linnean system, and the natural
order Composite.

Syri’nca.— Oléino.—The Lilac.
— Well-known deciduous shrubs,
with purplish or white flowers,
natives of Europe and the colder
parts of Asia, and valuable in British
shrubberies for the early appearance

of their leaves in spring, and for the
beauty and fragrance of their flowers.
Thereare several speciesand varieties,
varying principally in the colour of
the flowers. They are all quite
hardy in British gardens, and they
will grow in any common soil. They
are propagated by layers and suckers,
which they produce in great abun-
dance.

ABERNAIMONTA'NA.—Apo-
conece.—Trees and shrubs from
the East and West Indies, which
require a stove in England. They
have generally white fragrant flowers,
resembling those of the common
Jasmine, but are many times larger.
They should be grown in loam and
peat ; and they are propagated by
cuttings, which require a moist heat
to make them strike,

TACAMAHAC.—The Indian name
for the Balsam Poplar ; a species that
should be cultivated in ornamental
plantations for the beautiful yellowish
green of its leaves, which appear very
early in spring.

Tasco‘n1a. — Passifloracece. —
Climbing plants, nearly allied to the
Passion Flowers, with pinkish flowers,
and golden, ball-like fruit. They are
sometimes kept in a stove, but they
will both grow and flower freely in
greenhouse-heat. They should be
grown in sandy loam and peat, and
they are propagated by cuttings.

Tace‘TEs. — Compésite. — The
Frenchand African Marigolds. Well-
known half-hardy annuals, with
showy flowers that have a very dis-
agreeable smell. The seeds are
generally sown on a Slight hotbed,
and the young plants are planted
out in May.

Tatau' MA. — Magnoliacee. —
Low trees and shrubs from Java and
other parts of the East Indies, with
very fragrant white flowers, nearly

©
SSS SS Ss Ssh SS SSS sashes

TALLIES.

309

TALLIES.

allied to the Magnolias. The plants
should be grown in loam and peat if
kept in the stove, and they may be
propagated by layers and cuttings;
but by inarching them on Magnolia
purpurea, they may be brought to
flower in a conservatory or a green-
house.

Tati'nuM. — Portuldcece.— Suc-
culent plants, shrubby and perennial,
mostly natives of the West Indies,
and with dark-red or purple flowers.
They should be grown in sandy peat
with a little loam, and they require
butlittlewater. They are propagated
by cuttings.

Ta utes for plants are of various
kinds, according as the plant is large
or small, grown in the open air or
under a glass, and according as the
object is of a permanent or a tempo-
rary nature. Tallies for trees, as in
the case of an Arboretum, which is
to endure for many years, are formed
of iron, stone, or brick ; those for
herbaceous plants, of iron or wood ;
and those for plants in pots kept in
houses, of porcelain, wood, lead, zine,
and sometimes, though rarely, of
iron. ‘Tallies for plants kept in
nurseries in pots, are commonly of
wood, on which a little white paint
is rubbed with the finger, and the
name written with a_ black-lead
pencil ; those for plants taken up
and packed to be sent to a distance,
are commonly of parchment, with
the name written in ink ; but nursery
labels are formed of wood and tied
to trees, or of pieces of lead stamped
with numbers. The object in every
case connected with the nursery
business is simply to identify the
species or variety; but in the case of
private gardens, it is not only to do
this, but to produce an object that
shall not be unsightly in a garden.
For this latter purpose, porcelain
tallies (fig. 54), which are formed of
various sizes and shapes, are best

for pots; and tallies of cast-iron,
with panels for tablets containing
the names to be covered with glass
(fig. 55), are the most efficient for
plants in the open ground. Where

|

FIG. 54.—PORCELAIN TALLY FOR POTS.

it is not desired to display the name,
thesimplestand least expensive mode
is to mark a number on a wood tally
or stick, and this may be done either
by notching the stick with a knife,
which is the common practice among
gardeners, or by cutting a portion of
it smooth, rubbing it with a little

FIG. 55.—CAST-IRON OR ZINC TALLY FOR
THE OPEN GROUND.

white lead (white paint), and writing
the number while it is yet moist
with a black-lead pencil. Of all the
different modes which have hitherto
been devised of naming or numbering
plants in gardens (and they amount,

TAMARIX.

310

TAN.

perhaps, to hundreds), the mode by | are enumerated in books ; but only

a stick, white lead, and a black-lead |

pencil, is perhaps the best for private
gardens ; and it is, undoubtedly, by
far the cheapest. In numbering or
naming plants in a garden, where
good taste ought to preside, it must
always be recollected that the means
ought to be kept subordinate to the
end, and that the names of plants
should in no private garden be more
conspicuous than the plants them-
selves.

Tarttow TREE.—Stillingia seb-
ifera.—A stove plant, which should
be grown in peat and loam. It be-
longs to Euphorbiacee.

TaMARIND TREE.—See Tama-
RI’ NDUS.

T aMARI/NDUS. — Leguminose.—
The Tamarind Tree.— There are two
kinds of Tamarinds; 7’. indica, a
native of the East Indies, with yellow
flowers striped with red, and T. ocei-
dentalis, a native of the West Indies,
the flowers of which arewhite. Both
kinds, however, very rarely flower in
this country, probably because the
trees have not sufficient room for
their roots. The plantsmay be raised
from seeds of preserved Tamarinds
sownin a hotbed ; and they are worth
growing for their handsome foliage.
They require a strong heat anda rich
soil, and they should be supplied with
plenty of water. The soil should be
composed of equal parts of fresh turfy
loam and vegetable mould or rotten
dung, with a little sand or peat, and
these ingredients should be well
mixed together before the compost
is used. Young plants may also be
raised from cuttings, which strike
freely in sand with the help of
bottom-heat.

Ta’MARIX. — Tamariscinec. —
The Tamarisk.—Tall shrubs, mostly
natives of Europe, which are sub-
evergreen, and usefulin withstanding
thesea-breeze. Agreatmany species

a

i

two are common in British gardens.
These are Tamarix gallica, the
French Tamarisk ; and 7. germanica
L. (Myricaéria germéanica Desvy.),
the German Tamarisk. The French
Tamarisk is by far the handsomest,
and as it will thrive close to the
sea-shore, and produces its long ter-
minal spikes of pinkish flowers in
autumn, when people generally visit
the coast, it is a most valuable shrub
for the gardens of marine towns. It
should be grown in a deep sandy
soil, and it is propagated by cuttings
taken off in autumn.

Ta‘mus.—Dioscoriacee, or Ta-
mee.—The Black Bryony. —See
Bryony.—The Black Bryony belongs
to the same natural order as the
Yam. Forthe Elephant’s-foot, which
was formerly considered to belong to
the genus Tamus, see TesTupINA'-
RIA.

Tan.—The bark of oak or of
other trees, after it has been used by
tanners. When it is received by
gardeners from thetan-pits, itis gene-
rally wet and without heat ; but after
it has been laid in a ridge in an open
shed for two or three weeks, and
turned over two or three times, it
becomes drier and begins to ferment,
when heat is evolved in a greater or
less degree according to the size of
the mass. In this state it is fit to be
introduced into pits or beds in hot-
houses for the purpose of supplying
bottom-heat. For ordinary purposes
the bed or layer of tan need not be
thicker than eighteen inches or two
feet, but when a very powerful heat
is required, double that thickness is
desirable. The pots in which the
plants are contained, when large,
should at first not be plunged more
than half their depth in the tan; or,
even, in some cases, they should be
set on its surface. But after the first
violent heat has subsided, they may

TAN.

311

TECOMA.

be plunged to the brim. When the
heap begins to cool, in consequence
of the fermentation diminishing, the
tan may be turned over, and the pots
replunged, adding a little fresh tan, if
necessary, to keep the pit tothe proper
degree of fulness. When the heat
subsides a second time, the tan may
be again turned, and a large portion

of fresh material added; and the)

third time the old tan may be sifted
in turning, andafterwardsmixed with
new. To prolong the heat in tan by
diminishing the intensity of the fer-
mentation, common salt is sometimes
added ; and to increase the fermen-
tation, yeast, though rather an expen-
sive material, is sometimes mixed
with it. The heat of the tan-bed
should generally exceed the heat of
the atmosphere of the house by from
3°to10°, according to circumstances;
and it should seldom be lower than
60°, or higher than 75° or 80°. In
general, a tan-pit or bed requires to
be turned three or four times a year ;
and if salt is sprinkled over it each
time, the fermentation will be so far
retarded that the bed will retain its
heat for a twelvemonth. For the
purpose of growing Pine Apples, or
large hothouse plants, Oak or other
leaves, or even dung, may be substi-
tuted for tan; but for the purpose
of striking cuttings, tan is greatly
preferable, because the heat pro-
duced is not accompanied with so
much moisture, and hencethecuttings
are not liable to be damped off. In
situations where tan or leaves cannot
be procured, sawdust is an excellent
substitute, and even the husksof oats.
Sawdust is an excellent medium for
striking Epacridee and the Cape
Heaths ; the heat being more gentle
and regular than with most. other
fermenting substances. When tan
has lost the greater part of its heat, it
then forms an excellent medium for
striking fleshy-leaved plants such as

Bromélia, which require rather a dry

heat, and a medium which undergoes

the least possible change in respect to

moisture. Jt may also be used asa

substitute for peat, if mixed with an
| equal quantity of sand, and will be
very useful for growing Rhododen-
. drons and other peat-earth plants.

Tansy. Herbaceous plants, which
are quite hardy in any common gar-
| den soil, and which are increased by
| dividing the roots.

TANGIER Prea.—JLdthyrus tingi-
tanus.—See La’THYRUS.

Tansy.—See TANAcE'TUmM.

Taxo'pium. — Conifer. — See
Drcrpuous CYPRESS.

Ta’xus.—Conifere.—The Yew.
—The common Yew is too large a
tree to be noticed here; but the
Irish Yew, from its erect form and
broad leaves, makes a very handsome
plant, which, from the slowness of its
growth, may for a long time be almost
considered a shrub. There are also
some Japan and Chinese species (some
of which are now included in the
genus Podocdrpus), which are very
ornamental. They will all grow in
any garden soil, and are raised from
seeds.

Tea Tree.—See THe'sa. The
Duke of Argyle’s Tea Tree, Lgciwm
bérbarum, is often called the Tea-
| tree in gardens from mistake. See
| Ly’crum.

Tr’coma. — Bignoniacee. — The
Trumpet Flower.—All the species
which now compose the genus Técoma
were formerly well known under the
name of Bignénia, particularly 7.
radicans, the common Trumpet-
flower, which is quite hardy in British
gardens, and 7. grandiflora, which
is nearly so. Some of the species
require a greenhouse, and some a
stove; but they ali grow freely ina
rich, light, loamy soil, and they areall
propagated by cuttings of the roots.

TANACETUM.—Compésite.—The |

ee ey

TEPHRITIS.

312

THALICTRUM.

TELO'PEA. — Proteaceew. — The |
Warratah. — The brilliant scarlet |

flowers of this plant, which are con-
spicuous even at a great distance, are
said to have been one cause why the
coast of New South Wales was dis-
tinguished by its first visitors as
Botany Bay, in allusion to the great
accession to botany likely to be de-
rived froma country where the plants
appeared so different to those of
Europe. The flower of the Warratah
may be compared to a gigantic head
of clover ; of the most intense and
brilliant scarlet ; but it is not com-

| mon in England, probably because it
| is a very difficult plant to manage.

_ The first point to be attended to is
| to have the pot in which it is grown

thoroughly well drained; and the
next to allow it abundance of light
and air. It is generally kept ina
stove in England ; but it succeeds
betterin a greenhouse, atleast during
the summer months; as it is very apt
to become covered with insects if it is
kept all the year in a hothouse. It
is propagated by cuttings or suckers,
which it throws up in abundance ;
and it should be grown in heath-
mould, mixed with white sand and a
little loam. It should be regularly
watered in the flowering season; but
it may be kept almost dry during the
winter months.

Teno’r1a. — Umbellifere. —The
shrubby species of Hare’s Ear.—See
BuPLev'Rum.

TENTHRE'‘DO.—See Saw-FLy.

TEpHRi‘tis.— A kind of leaf-
mining insect, which attacks celery
and chrysanthemums ; the perfect
insect is a fly which has a very
peculiar sideling motion in flying,
quite different to most other flies.
From the small size of these flies, it
is extremely difficult to catch them
by hand, and Mr. Westwood sug-
gests hanging lines of string covered

with birdlime over the rows of |

celery. The grubs may also be
crushed by the hand in their pas-
sage through the leaf without de-
stroying the leaf, and if this be done
in the beginning of the summer, the
destruction of one grub at that pe-
riod will prevent the production of
a numerous progeny.
TESTUDINA‘RIA.— Dioscoriée.—
Elephant’s-foot, or Hottentot Bread.
—A very singular plant, with an
enormous scaly root above ground,
from which issues a slender stem,
with small flowers. The plant isa
native of the Cape, from which
country the roots are frequently re-
ceived. It should have a season of
complete repose, without any water
being given to it when it is not ina
growing state, and it should be
grown in a mixture of equal parts
of turfy loam, peat, and sand ; the
large scaly root being placed on the
surface of the soil, and not buried
init. The earth in the pot should
be then watered and kept moist till
the fibrous roots begin to appear,
after which less water should be
given till the slender stem appears,
when the soil in the pot should be
watered regularly and abundantly ;
but no water should ever be poured
on the scaly root. The flowers are
dicecious, and have never yet pro-
duced seed in England. The sub-
stance of the scaly root is farina-

| ceous, and it is said to be used by

the Hottentots as food. The plant
has never been propagated in Eng-
land ; all the plants grown in this
country having been received in the
state of dry roots from the Cape.

Tua ‘t1a.— Cannew.—T. dealbata
is an aquatic plant, a native of South
Carolina, with very curious black and
white fragrant flowers. It is about
as hardy as Calla ethidpica, and
requires the same treatment. See
A‘RUM.

THaLi'crruM. — Ranunculacce,

* JAF

Ss a

t

Re Og PPT PF SN

4 -
JS ehee>-Chi-
| ee

THEA.

313

THERMOPSIS.

—Meadow Rue.—Perennial plants,
natives of Europe and North Ame-

_ rica, which are quite hardy in British

gardens. 7’. aguilegifolium and its
varieties are very showy border-
flowers; and JZ. alpinum, and
some other dwarf species, are ele-
gant plants for rockwork. They
all grow freely in any common gar-
den soil.

THATCHING is sometimes applied
as a protection to half-hardy trees in
the open ground. Many half-hardy
trees and shrubs may be protected
from any danger from frost by laying

FIG. 56.—PROTECTING HALF-HARDY
TREES BY THATCHING,

frosts. The flowers of both kinds
resemble those of small single white
Camellias ; and they are cultivated
more from the curiosity which most
persons feel to see the plants pro-
ducing tea, than from any real
beauty they possess.

THEOBRO'MA.— Byttneriacee.—
The Cacao-Nut Tree.—The tree from
the nuts of which Cocoa and Choco-
late are prepared comes very appro-
priately after the Tea Tree. There
are three species, all natives of South
America, with brownish flowers ; all
of which require a stove in England,
and should be grown in light rich
soil,

THEOPHRA’STA. — A pocynee. —
Stove-plants with very handsome
leaves and white flowers. They are
grown in loam and peat, and they
are propagated by cuttings.

THERMOMETER. — No amateur
should attempt to grow plants in a
greenhouse or stove, or even in a
| hotbed, without being provided with
a thermometer, to regulate the de-
| gree of heat. A very ingenious one,
| with a long tube for plunging into
the ground, has been contrived for
ascertaining the heat of a hotbed or
| tan-pit.
| THERMO’PsIS. — Legumindse. —
| Herbaceous plants, generally with
| yellow flowers, natives of Europe
_and North America, which should

straw over the roots and collar of the , be grown in very rich soil, but which
stem, and then thatching it, asshown | are quite hardy in the open air in
in fig. 56. | Britain. There is one kind, 7’. bor-
TuE'sa.—Ternstremiacee.—-Ever- | bortus, a native of the Himalaya,
green half-hardy shrubs, natives of | introduced in 1855, which has large
China, and nearly allied to the Ca- | dark-purple flowers, mixed with

méllia, from which indeed they differ
only slightly in the capsule. They
are only half-hardy in British gar-

_ dens. Yhéa Bohéa, indeed, requires

protection every winter ; but 7’. viri-
dis will live in the open air with
very slight protection (such as laying
straw, &c., over the roots) in severe

bright-red and streaked with green.
It is a perennial, and appears quite
hardy in British gardens. There is
one ligneous species, Thermdpsis
iaburnifolia D. Don. (Anagyris
indica Wal.), but it is now gene-
rally called Piptdénthus nepalénsis.
| (See Pipra/ntuus.) None of the

THUJA.

species belonging to this genus will
thrive unless grown in very rich
mould,

THISTLE.—See Ca’rpvvs.

THoma'siA.-- Bytineridcew.--Pret-
ty little Australian shrubs, formerly
called Lasiopétalum. They should
be grown in sandy peat, and kept in
@ greenhouse.

THORN APPLE.—See Datu'rA and
STRAMO'NIUM.

Turirt.—Stdtice Arméria Lin. ;
Arméria vulgaris Willd.—See Ar-
ME‘RIA.

Turips.—Very smali flies, not
above a line in length, and which
seem rather to leap than to fly away
when it is attempted to catch them ;
throwing up the lower part of their
bodies at the same time, as though
they curled themselves up to take a
spring. They are very destructive,
and attack both leaves and petals,
causing both to curl up, and after-
wards to turn yellow and drop off.
The larve are nearly as large as the
perfect insect, and of a pale yellow;
and the insect itself is first yellow-
ish, but afterwards becomes black.
As soon as the ravages of these
little creatures are perceived, the
plants they have attacked should be
well and frequently syringed, and
exposed as much as possible to the
free air ; hand-picking in their case
being of little avail, from the very
small size of the insects and their
extraordinary activity.

THROATWORT. — See
LIUM.

Tau '3a.—Conifere.—The Arbor
Viteze.—There are two kinds of Arbor
Vitee common in British gardens, the
American (Thija occidentalis), and
the Chinese (7. orientalis), both
having several varieties. The Ame-
rican species is an open- growing
tree, with horizontal branches ; and
in America, where it is called the
White Cedar, it grows in swamps.

TRACHE'-

314

THUNBERGIA.

| =e Chinese Arbor Vite, on the
contrary, is a close-growing tree,
with upright branches, and should
| be grown inadry soil. Both are
quite hardy in the climate of Lon-
don, and both are propagated by
layers and cuttings; the former
taking two years to root, and the
latter being very difficult to strike.
Besides these there are several other
species, most of which require a
greenhouse or protection during win-
ter. The principal of these are
Thija péndula and T. articulata
Desf. (Callitris quadrivdlvis Vent.) ;
the latter species, which is a native
of Mount Atlas, in Barbary, pro-
ducing the gum fandarach, and
being the celebrated Spanish wood
Alerce, which is so hard that it is
said to resist fire, and of which the
cathedral of Cordova was built. It
is also supposed to have been the
sandal-wood of the ancients.
THUNBE’RGIA. —Acanthacec. —
The beautiful climbing plants gene-
rally known by this name differ very
much in the colour of their fiowers,
though very little in their shape.
Some botanists divide: them into
three genera. 7’. Hawtaynedna,
with dark-purplish flowers, they
call Meyénia ; and of 7. coccinea,
with three other nearly-allied spe-
cies, they have formed the genus
Hexacéntris ; while they leave 7.
grandiflora, with dark-blue flowers,

T. fragrans, the flowers of which !

are white and sweet-scented, 7.
aurantiaca, with orange flowers,
and JT. alata, with buff flowers,

with its white-flowered variety, in |

the genus Thunbérgia. TZ. aldta
and 7’. awrantiaca, which is proba-
bly only a darker-coloured variety,

are the most common of these kinds, ’

and they may be grown either as
stove or greenhouse climbers, or as
half-hardy annuals. JZ’. aldta is a
native of the Hast Indies, and when

Se

THYMUS. 315 TILLANDSIA.

treated as either a greenhouse or a | in light rich soil, and are increased
stove plant it is very apt to be| by dividing the root.

covered with the red spider (see} THysano'tus.— Asphodéleew. —
A’carus) ; but these insects seldom | Australian plants, with very singu-
appear upon it when it is grown in | larly fringed flowers. The flowers

the open air. JZ. laurifolia is a! expand about eight o'clock in the |

very handsome species, with large | morning, and they close at two,
blue flowers; and 7. Harristi isa | never remaining unclosed longer
most splendid species, with blue and | than six hours. They are grown in
yellow flowers. When treated as an | a greenhouse or stove, in sandy loam
annual, the seeds should be sown in | or peat; and, like all the Australian
January on a slight hotbed, or in a} plants, care should be taken not to
sheltered situation in the open/let them suffer from any excess,
ground. The best soil for them is | either of drought or moisture. They
equal parts of peat and silver sand, | are propagated either by division of
to which a little vegetable mould | the root or by seed.

may be added. The soil should be} Tiger FLowEer.—See Ticrr'piA.
kept moist, but it should be well| Tuicri’p1s.—J/Jridee.—The Tiger
drained, as the plants will perish if | Flower.—The commonest species of
either kept too dry or suffered to | this splendid bulb was formerly
have their roots in stagnant water. | called Ferraria Tigridia, but it is
When planted in the open air where | now changed to Tigridia pavonia ;
they are finally to remain, the long | there is a variety called 7’. p. leona,
shoots should be pegged down at the | and a second species called 7’. con-
joints all over the bed; and thus | chiifldra. They are all extremely
treated they will send up innume- | handsome, producing abundance of
rable fower-stalks, so as to make the | their magnificent flowers in the open
whole bed appear a mass of dowers. | ground, which, however, are very
T. aurantiaca may be treated in| short-lived, seldom remaining ex-
the same manner; but 7. a. albi- | panded more than afew hours. The
jlora is rather more tender, and | plants are natives of Mexico, and
appears generally to succeed better | the bulbs may be suffered to remain
in a greenhouse than in the open /in the ground all the year, if they
air. When these plants are grown | can be kept dry ; there being more
in a stove, and beset with the red | danger of their being destroyed by
spider, the only way to destroy it is | wet than frost. The best mode of
to syringe them with water heated | treating them is perhaps that re-
to 120°. The other species of Thun- |commended for the Ixia. — See
bérgia are always kept in the stove, | I’xra.

and I believe have never been| ‘TitE-Root.—See GEIssorH1'zA.
treated as annuals, though most of | TiLLan’psta. — Bromeliacee.—

Se

them seed freely. They are grown | Very curious stove-plants, most of |

in loam and peat, and are propa- | which are parasitical, and may be

gated by cuttings. treated like the stove Orchidacee.
THYME.—See Tuy‘mus. —(See Oxcuiprous Epipuyrss.)
Tuy'‘mus.—— Labidte.—— The | The others may be potted in a mix-

Thyme. —Fragrant dwarf shrubs, | ture of peat and loam, and propa-
very suitable for rock-work. JZ. | gated by suckers. They have all
grandiflorus is perhaps the most | showy flowers, which they produce
ornamental. They should be grown | abundanily.

yata Schreb.

| ple, but cultivated for its bean-like |

TORTULA.

316

TRAGOPOGON.

TOAD-FLAX.—See Lina‘riA.
Topacco.—See Nicoria‘na.
To’Lpis,—See HawKWEED.
Tonquin Bean.—Dipteriz odo-
(Baryésma Téngo
Gert.)—A leguminous plant, of no
beauty in its flowers, which are pur-

_ seeds, which are remarkably fra-

grant. It is a native of Guiana,

quires a stove in England, where it
may be grown in a compost of peat

' and loam.

TOOTHACHE-TREE. — See XAnN-
THO’XYLUM.

Toprary.—The art of cutting
yews and other trees into curious
shapes, by putting a wire frame-
work over them, and then clipping

| the trees into the desired form. This

| art was practised to such an extent

in ancient Rome, that the word for

| topiarist was used as synonymous

Australian

with that for gardener.
TorE'NIA. — Scrophularine. —
plants with pretty

flowers, which require to be kept

in a greenhouse,

and grown in
sandy loam. One species is a half-
hardy annual, which may be raised
on a hotbed, and planted out in

_ May.

TORMENTI/LLA. —— Rosacece. ——

| British plants, with yellow flowers,

which, though weeds, look very

' well on rock-work. The double-

flowered variety of 7’. erécta is very
ornamental.
Torre‘yA.— Conifere.—A very

_ handsome evergreen tree, a native
_ of Florida, in North America, nearly

allied to the yew, and forming a link
between that tree and the Hemlock

| spruce.

To’rtTuLa.—Cryptogamia Masci.

| — Wall-moss.—A kind of moss,

very useful in making moss-houses,

| from the brightness and variety of

/ natives of South America.
where it is a tall tree; and it re- |

being of a dark blue green, others
_of a rich yellowish green, others of
a very pale pea-green, and one of a
dark rich brown. They are all
common in Britain.

TOUCH-ME-Not.--—See Iupa‘rrens.

TOURNEFO’RTIA. — Boraginee.
Hothouse and greenhouse shrubs,
and hardy and half-hardy perennials,
T. Mes-
serschmidia is a greenhouse shrub,
with very fragrant flowers, which
have no beauty; and 7. heliotro-
piéides is a half-hardy perennial,
strongly resembling the Heliotrope
in its flowers, but without any fra-
grance. ‘They are all free-growing
plants in sandy loam, and they are
propagated by cuttings.

TRACHE’LiuM.—Campanulacec.
—Throatwort.—The most common
species, 7. certleum, is a_half-
hardy biennial, which requires to be
raised on a hotbed, kept in a frame
during winter, and planted out in
spring, where it is to flower, in rich
mould,

TRACHYME’NE.— Umbellifere. —
Australian shrubs, requiring a green-
house. For the beautiful annual
species, 7’. cwrilea, see Dipi'scus.

TRADESCa’NTIA.— Commelinee.
—Spiderwort. — Handsome herba-
ceous plants, the common kinds of
which only require planting in the
open ground, and in any common
garden soil, There are, however,
several hothouse plants belonging to
the genus, and two or three Mexican
or South American annuals, which
all require a light soil, enriched with
rotten dung, or vegetable mould.

TrRaGopo'con. — Composite. —
Goat’s Beard.—Ornamental biennial
plants, natives of Europe, which
only require to receive the common
treatment of similar plants, and to
be grown in any garden soil. Of
the British species, the most re-

_ its colours ; some of the species|markable are J. praténsis, the

——— CC Orr " —__---- ron — —————— —— — — ————_—

TRAINING.

popular name of which is Go-to-bed-
at-noon, from the flowers closing in |
the middle of the day, and which
has large yellow flowers, and a very
curious feathery head of seeds ; and
T. porrifolius, the common Salsafy,
which has purple flowers, and the |
roots of which are occasionally
dressed as a vegetable.
Tracopy‘ruM. — Polygonee. —
Goat’s Wheat. — Ornamental shrubby
plants, with pink flowers, natives of |
Europe and America, which should |
be grown in very sandy loam, or |
heath-mould.
TRAINING is an important opera- |
tion, whether it be applied to nailing
trees against a wall, or to training
herbaceous plants over an iron or |
wooden frame-work. Climbing roses |

may be trained as pyramids, by | |

fixing a pole with three legs, or |
three poles in the ground, and sus- |
pending hoops from them, as shown
in fig. 57, and this mode of training

|

FIG. 57.—MODES OF TRAINING ROSES, &c.
TO FORM PYRAMIDS,

may be applied to various other
plants. Plants in pots may betrained
by fixing a number of sticks or pins
of iron, with hooks attached (a),

317

TREE CARNATION.

in the earth in the pot, and rest-
ing hoops on them, as shown in
fig. 58.

lL

|.
3
|

FIG. 58.—MODE OF TRAINING PLANTS
IN POTS.

Tra’pa. — Hydrocharidee. —
Water Caltrops.—Aquatice plants,
natives of Europe and the East |
Indies, with white flowers and very
curious nuts, which, when cooked,
resemble in taste those of the chest- |
nut, and are equally wholesome. |
The rhizoma should be planted, or
the seeds shown, in loamy soil at
the bottom of the water in which
the plant is to grow.

TRAVELLER'S Joy. — Clématis
Vitalba.

TREE Carnation. — Dianthus
arboreus is, in its wild state, pro-
bably only the common Carnation
which has been trained against
a wall, and, by being kept con-
tinually growing, has been forced
to take the character of a tree. It
should be planted in calcareous loam,

TREVIRANA.

318

TRISTANIA.

carefully trained, giving it a little
protection in case of severe frosts.

TreE Matiow. — Lavdtera. —
_ Besides the common annual species
of Lavatera, there are nine or ten
species which are shrubby, and one
of which, L. phwnicea, a native of
the Canary Isles, is a tree ten feet
high. JL. maritima is the com-
monest kind ; and as this is a na-
tive of Spain and the South of
France, it will thrive in the open
air in England, if slightly pro-
tected during severe frosts. L. tri-
loba, L. subovata, and L. africana,
have all the same degree of hardi-
ness, and they will all live and flower
in British gardens, if about the same
care be bestowed on them as is
usually given to the Tree Peony.
L. O'lbia, with reddish flowers, L.
Pseiudo-O’lbia, with pale purple
flowers, L. unguiculdta, and L.
hispida, are all shrubby species,
which require a greenhouse, and
should be grown in loam and peat.

TREFOIL.—See TriFo‘LIuM.

TREME LLA.—CryptogamiaFingt.
—A kind of lichen found on the
ground and on trees in damp places,
and resembling jelly.

TREVIRA' NA. — Scrophuldérine.
—The plant commonly called 7.
| coccinea, or Cyrilla pulchélla, is
/ now included in the genus Achi-
ménes. It is a dwarf shrub with
bright scarlet flowers, which it pro-
duces in September; and it should
| be kept either in a stove or in a
warm greenhouse, the heat of which
is between 60 and 70 degrees. It
should be grown in a compost
formed of equal parts of loam, peat,
_ and sand, enriched with rotten cow-
dung or vegetable mould, and it
should be well and frequently
syringed with warm water, to keep
it clear of insects. When it is much
infested with them, it will be ad-

EE ——_——

against an east or west wall, and | visable to heat the water to 120

degrees. It is propagated by di-
viding the roots in February, taking
care not to bruise them; or by
cuttings of the points of the shoots
taken off in August; and in both
cases the plants are much improved
by frequently shifting them as the
pots fill with roots, and always into
pots only a little larger than those
in which the plants were growing.
Thus treated, the plants will become
compact little bushes, and will flower
abundantly. For the other species
of the genus, see ACHIME'NES.

TrRICHOSA/NTHES.—Cucurbitacee.
—See Snake GouRD.

TrRIFO‘LIUM. — Leguminose. —
The Clover or Trefoil.—Those who
are accustomed to consider the Tre-
foil as only the common clover of
the meadows, will probably be sur-
prised to find that there are nearly
a hundred and fifty species, all more
or less ornamental, Some of these
are perennials and some annuals;
and the colour of their flowers varies
from dark-crimson, and sometimes
scarlet to purple on the one hand,
and to white, cream-colour, and
pale-yellow on the other.

Tri’LLium. —Melanthacee.—Tu-
berous-rooted plants, generally with
dark - brown or reddish flowers,
which have a remarkably rich and
velvet-likeappearance. They areall
natives of North America, and they
should all be grown in shady places,
in sandy peat kept moist. Thus
treated they will fiower freely, and
their flowers will have a very rich
and singular effect.

TRipri’Lion.—Compésite.—Chi-
lian annuals, which are hardy in
Britain, and worth growing for their
curious feathery seeds.

Trista’NIA. —Myrtacee. — Aus-
tralian shrubs, nearly allied to Me-
laleiica ; which require a greenhouse
in England. They should be grown

.

—————————————

TROPHOLUM.

in sandy peat, and they are propa- |

gated by cuttings.

Trito‘n1a. —Jridece. — Bulbous
plants with splendid flowers, which
will thrive in the open ground for
many years without taking up, if
grown in a dry sandy soil, or pro-
tected from rain during winter.—
See I’x1a.

Tro’Li1us. — Ranunculdcece. —
The Globe Flower is a British plant,
frequently grown in gardens, but on
which cultivation appears to have
had no effect. There are some
exotic species.
> Tropzs'oLum. — Tropeolaceee.—
The Garden Nasturtium.—The well-
known annual plants called the
Nasturtium are common in every
garden, and only require sowing
with the other hardy annuals in
spring ; they may be suffered to sow
themselves in autumn. There were
formerly only two kinds of the
annual Tropeolums, 7. majus and
T. minus, but since 1830, several
varieties have been raised. One
with very dark flowers, is called 7.
m. atrosanguineum, and another,
with dark stripes, is 7’. m. vendstum.
The young shoots of these plants are
succulent, and taste like the com-
mon land cress, the botanical name
of which is Nastirtium, and hence
they have received their popular
name. JBesides the hardy annual
kinds, there are several half-hardy
species, most of which are kept in
the greenhouse. The best known
of these is Zrope‘olum tricolorum,
with red, black, and yellow flowers,
which has tuberous roots, and such
very weak and slender stems, that
it is found necessary always to train
them over a wire frame, as they are
quite unable to support themselves.
In Paxion’s Magazine of Botany it
is stated, that the tuber of the root
should not be buried, but only
placed on the surface of the soil, so

319

/astonishing manner,”’

TROPHOLUM.

that the fibrous roots may penetrate
it. This, it is said, will enlarge
the bulb or tuber in ‘‘a truly
and though
the plants will not appear healthy
the first season, they will after-
wards become extremely vigorous.
He also recommends using double
pots for these plants, and filling up
the interstices with river sand,
which should always be kept moist.
T. brachyceras may be treated in
the same manner; and it would
probably succeed with 7’. twherdsum,
a species which it is very difficult to
throw into flower under ordinary
treatment. 7’. peregrinum or cana-
riensis, as it is sometimes called, the
Canary Bird flower, was formerly
considered a greenhouse plant, but
it is now found much better to treat
it as a half-hardy annual, raising
the seeds on a hotbed and planting
them out in May, near some trellis-
work, or other support, which the
plant will soon cover, in the most
graceful manner, producing thou-
sands of its elegant fringe-like pale-
yellow flowers.

Several new species of Tropz‘olum
were introduced from 1840 to 1848
inclusive, and some few have been
introduced since that period. An
account having been given of a
beautiful blue Tropz'‘olum having
been seen in Chili, collectors were
sent by different persons to obtain
it, and in consequence a great num-
ber of Tropz'olum tubers were sent
to England in the hope of one of
them being the desired species. At
last the Blue Tropz‘olum, 7. azi-
reum, was obtained, and it flowered
beautifully in Messrs. Veitch’s nur-
sery at Exeter, in the autumn of
1842. There are two plants which
appear to be different varieties : the
one having dark-blue flowers with a
white centre, and the other being
all pale-blue. The habit of both

TULIPA.

320

TULIPA.

plants is that of 7. brachyceras, |

with tuberous roots; and they are
natives of Chili, like most of the
other perennial species. Among
the other tubers imported have been
found several other species equally
deserving of cultivation. The prin-
cipal of these are 7. edule, with
bright orange and green flowers,
and twining stems; and 7. poly-
phyllum, with orange flowers that
do not open fully, having a green
calyx and a long spur, and leaves
cut into eight or ten lobes, 7.
Moritzianum is a splendid species,
with scarlet and yellow flowers that
are deeply fringed. It is a native
of Trinidad, but it is said to grow
best in the open air during summer.
It is nearly allied to 7. tuberdsum,
and like that species it is very dif-
ficult to flower. The choicer kinds
of tuberous Trope‘olum may be pro-
pagated, by grafting them on tubers
of the commoner kinds, in the way

| already directed for grafting the

Peony and the Dahlia. For the cul-
ture of Trope‘olum pentaphyllum,

| see Coymoca’RPUS.

True Service.—Pyrus Sérbus
or Sérbus doméstica.

TRoMPET FLowER.—See Bieno'-
NIA and Tr’comA.

TusEeR.—Tubers closely resemble
in their nature what are called solid
bulbs or corms, and appear to be
reservoirs of nourishment which
have been laid up by nature for the
support of the infant plant. Some
tubers have numerous buds in dif-
ferent parts of their substance, like
the potato, and others have only buds
in the upper part, like the Dahlia
and Ranunculus.

TUBEROSE.—See Po.ta’NTHUS.

TuLip.—See Tu'sipa.

Tu ‘Ltipa.—Tulipacee.—The Tu-
lip.—The greater part of the Tulips

native of the Levant ; but there are
several other distinct species. One
of the most beautiful of these is the
wild French Tulip, 7. sylvéstris,

which is most elegantly shaped, of a |

beautiful yellow, and very fragrant,
and which is occasionally found wild
in England. TZ. 6éculus solis is an
Italian species, and JZ. pre‘coz,
Van Thol’s Tulip, is a dwarf plant,
that flowers very early in the season,
generally in March or April. Be-
sides these there are twelve other
species, quite distinct. The garden
varieties of 7’. Gesneriana are di-
vided into four classes, the first con-
taining the Bizarres, which have
a yellow ground shaded with dark-
brownish red or purple, and which
are subdivided into the flaked in
which the dark colour is in a broad
stripe or band, rising from the
bottom of the petal ; and the fea-
thered, in which the dark colour
forms a marginal edging to the
petals, descending into them in va-
rious little delicate feathery veins.
The second class contains the By-
blemens, which are white, shaded
with violet or dark-purple, and
which are also subdivided into
flaked and feathered. The third
class are called Roses, and they have
white grounds shaded with Rose
colour or Cherry red, and they also
are divided into flaked and feathered;
and the fourth class are the Selfs,
which are white or yellow without
any dark colour. Besides these
there are what are called breeders,
which are of a dingy crimson, and
which are seedling Tulips before
they have shown any variety of
colour ; parrot Tulips, which are
supposed to be a variety of 7.
sylvéstris ; and double Tulips, which
' are not valued by floristsatall. All
seedling Tulips, when they first

grown in gardens are varieties of | flower, are what are called breeders,
one species, Tulipa Gesneriana, a

and of a dull uniform colour; and

‘

nae se sth sit ec et eterna i tesa

TULIPA.

to make them break, that is, to
produce the brilliant and distinct
colours which constitute the beauty
of a florist’s flower, a variety of
expedients are resorted to. At one
time they are grown in poor soil,
and only allowed water enough to
keep them living; and then they
are suddenly transported to the
richest soil, abounding in food and
moisture ; and sometimes they are
sent into the country twenty or
thirty miles from the place where
they were grown, to try the effect
of change of air. Seedling tulips
are generally five years before they
flower. In addition to the kinds al-
ready enumerated, the French have
what they call Baguettes, which
are very tall-stemmed Tulips, the
tiowers of which are white, striped
with dark-brownish red ; Baguettes
Rigauds, which resemble the others,
but have shorter stems and larger
flowers ; and Flamands, which have
a white ground and broad dark-red
stripes. The Dutch have also a
kind which they call the Incom-
parable Verport, which is white,
feathered with bright shining brown.
All florists’ Tulips ought to have cup-
shaped flowers, round at the base ;
the ground colour inside the flower
ought to be quite clear and bright in
the centre; and all the marks ought
to appear sharply cut and distinct.
The culture of the Tulip as a
florist?s flower requires constant
attention. A bed about four feet
wide, and of any convenient length,
should be dug out to the depth of
two feet, and in it a stratum of fresh
turfy loam should be laid, and on
this there should be a layer of rotten
cow-dung, and on that a layer of
loam mixed with an equal quantity
of sand. The surface of the bed
should be slightly raised in the
middle, and the tallest Tulips should
be planted along it ; the lower-grow-

321

TULIPA.

ing ones being ranged on each side,
so as to make the flowers form a
gentle curve to the sides of the bed.
The Tulips should be seven inches
apart every way ; and should be
planted two or three inches deep ;
and the bed should be protected by
half-hoops placed over it at regular
distances, over which mats should
be strained ; the covering being so
contrived as to be removed or opened
at pleasure. When the Tulips are
nearly arrived at their full height,
the hoops and mats should be re-
moved, and a path being made round
the bed, a canvas awning, supported
on a wooden frame, should be sub-
stituted. When the plants have
done flowering, the leaves should be
suffered to remain on till they turn
brown, in order that they may
assist in perfecting the new bulb,
which is formed every year in lieu
of the old one, which gradually

FIG. 59.—TULIP BULB.

wastes away. The bulb is tuni-
cated, that is, it consists of several
coats or tunics laid over one another
(see fig. 59), When the leaves are

XY

$<

TURPENTINE-TREE.

322

ULEX.

withered, the bulbs are taken up | however, that common turpentine is

and laid on shelves to dry; after
which the leaves, if any remain on,
are removed, and the fibrous roots,
which will have withered up, are
rubbed off, and the bulbs are put
into a box, divided into compart-
ments, so as to keep the named
sorts apart till the season for re-

procured from the different trees of
the Pine and Fir tribe.

TussiLa‘co. — Compésite.— The
Colt’s-Foot or Butter Bur.—Some of
the species are pretty and worth cul-
tivating, particularly 7. fragrans.
They will all grow in any gar-
den soil ; but are very troublesome

planting, which is the last week | to keep within bounds, from the

in October or the first in November.
A fresh bed should be made for
Tulips every year, or the soil of the
old bed should be changed; as the
exudations from Tulips poison the
ground for other plants of the same
kind, though they are suitable for
other crops. The usual rotation in
Holland is, Tulips, Polyanthus,
Narcissus, Crocuses, and Hyacinths.
Mr. Groom, of Clapham, is the prin-
cipal Tulip-grower in the neighbour-
hood of London ; and he has an ex-
hibition of them every year in May.

TULIP-TREE. — See LiriopE'n-
DRON.

Tu'na.— One of the kinds of
Prickly Pear or Indian Fig.—See
Opv’NTIA.

Tu'pa.— Lobeliacee.—The new
name for the large upright-growing
kinds of lLobélia, with scarlet

| flowers.

TUPELO-TREE.—WV ssa sylvatica.
TURMERIC.—-Curcima.—-Scitami-
neous plants with very showy flowers,
natives of the East Indies, which
require a stove in England. They

| should be grown in light rich earth,

_ and they are propagated by offsets.

To/RNERA. —— Turneracee. ——

| Stove shrubs and herbaceous plants

with yellow flowers, some of which
bear a slight resemblance to those
of the Thunbérgia. They should be
grown in light rich soil, and they
are propagated by cuttings, or by
seeds, which they ripen freely.
TURPENTINE-TREE. —— Pisticia
Tercbhinthus.—It must be observed,

immense number of suckers that
they send up from their roots.

Tursan.—See ANDROSZ‘MuUM and
HyPr/RIcUM.

TYDMHA AMABILIS is the new name
for Achimenes picta.

Ty‘pHa.— Tgphine.—Cat’s-Tail
Rush.—Aquatic plants, suitable for
growing on the borders of ponds, and
made pieces of water, to hide the
boundary.

T= —-— Leguminose. — The
Furze. — An erect evergreen
shrub with yellow flowers, which
are produced nearly all the year.
The double-blossomed Furze is very
handsome, and makes a beautiful
hedge. When it is employed for
this purpose, a bank of earth should
be raised three or four feet high,
and wider at the bottom than at
the top, and the cuttings should be
planted in adrill along the ridge. The
soil should be somewhat sandy, and
if there be plenty of room the plants
should be left to nature, tohangdown
loosely overthe bank, and theyshould
never be pruned, except to cut out
the dead wood. JU. nana grows
generally on very poor gravelly soils,
and seldom exceeds two feet in
height ; while U. europe'a, the
common kind, in favourable situ-
ations, will grow ten feet high. JU.
stricta, the Irish Furze, has no
spines, and it grows straight up-
right to the height of eight or ten
feet. It requires a moist rich soil ;

USNEA.

323

VALLISNERIA.

and it is propagated by cuttings | particularly Oaks, and has a very

like the double-blossomed kind, as
it has never yet been known to
ripen seeds. All the other kinds
are propagated by seeds, which they
ripen in great abundance.

Ut’mus.—Ulmacee.—The Elm.
—The Weeping Elm isa very orna-
mental tree for pleasure-grounds.

Umpsiti'cus. — Crassulacee. —
The new name for some of the kinds
of Navelwort.—See Coryzz'pon.

UmsBreELLA TREE. — Magnolia
tripétala.—See Maeno'‘nta.

UnpDERGROWTH.—As nothing can
look worse than naked ground under
trees and shrubs, itis useful to know
what plants will grow under the
shade of trees. The best mode of
concealing the ground is to cover it
with ivy or laurel pegged down.
Evergreen climbing roses may also
be pegged down, or Azaleas and
Rhododendrons. These last plants
make beautiful undergrowth, as
may be seen at Bagshot Park, High
Clere, Claremont, and other places.
The Aucuba, nearly all the Maho-
nias, and the different kinds of
Periwinkle, are all plants well
adapted for undergrowth.

Ure'bo.— Cryptogamia.--A kind
of rust often found on the leaves of
rose trees and other plants.—See
MILDEW.

Urti'ca.— Urticacee.—The Net-
tle.—The Roman Nettle, U. piluli-
fera, is sometimes grown in gardens
as an ornamental annual, but the
sting is much worse than that of U.
dioica, the common Nettle. Some
of the exotic species are very hand-
some ; as, for example, U. reticu-
lata, a native of Jamaica, which has
red and yellow flowers and deep
green leaves. All the Nettles thrive
most in a deep rich soil.

U'snEa.— Cryptogamia.—A kind
of lichen that hangs down like a
beard from the branches of old trees,

picturesque appearance.
Uvota'ria. — Melanthacee. —
Perennial hardy plants with pale
yellow flowers, natives of North
America, which should be grown in
a compost of peat and loam ; a pit,
about a foot square every way, being
dug in the open border and filled
with the compost to plant them in.
If the subsoil be not good, the pit
may be made a little deeper, and a
layer of stones and brickbats may
be put at the bottom. The plants
are propagated by suckers, which
they produce in great abundance.

ACCI’NIUM.— Fricacee.—The

Whortle Berry.—Dwarf shrubs,
with pretty drooping heath-like
flowers and rather showy fruit ;
found wild generally on commons in
Europe and North America. V.
Myrtillus, the common Bilberry, is
the commonest species in England,
and there is a variety with white
berries in Germany. The Cran-
berry, V. Oxycéccus Lin., is now
called Oxycéccus palistris.

VALERIAN.—See VALERIA‘NA,

V ALERIA'‘NA._— Valeridnee.——
Perennial plants, mostly natives of
Europe, which will grow in any
common soil. The dwarf species
are very suitable for rock-work.

VALLISNE'RIA.— Hydrocharidee.
—Waier plants, which succeed best
in a greenhouse, and which should
be planted in a layer of loam at the
bottom of the cistern in which they
are to be grown. The male and
female flowers are on different
plants ; and the latter rise on long
spiral stalks, which gradually un-
coil above the surface of the water,
while the former are produced at
the bottom. Before, however, the
anthers burst to discharge the pol-
len, the male flowers detach them-

y 2

VASCULARES. 324 VERBASCUM.

selves from their stalks and rise up only of cellular tissue. All the
to the surface, on which they float flowering plants belong to the Vas-
like little white bubbles. After the | culares ; but the mosses, fungi, and
pollen has been distributed over the | lichens, are Cellulares.

| Vases in pleasure-grounds have

stigmas, the male flowers his
and the spiral stalk of the female | often a very good effect, particularly

coils up again, so as to draw the
seed-vessel under the water, that it
may ripen at the bottom and burst
when just in the proper place to de-
posit its seeds. Nothing can be
more beautiful than the whole
arrangement; and nothing can show
more strikingly the admirable man-
ner in which the economy of nature
is carried on.

Vatonta OAak.—Quéreus E'gi-
lops.—The acorns are enveloped in
a curious leafy cup ; and the tree,
which is generally of a small size, is
very handsome.—See Quer’Rovs.

Va’nvoa.— Orchidacee.—A beau-
tiful Epiphyte, which is made the
type of a section from the great
number that are nearly allied to it.
It should be grown on the branch
of a tree.—See Orcurpzous EFri-
PHYTES.

Va'nILLa. — Orchidacee. — A
creeping parasite, common in tropi-
cal climates, which throws out roots
at every joint, that penetrate into
the bark of the trees on which the
plant grows. When grown in an
orchideous house these plants are
frequently fixed in a crevice in the
damp wall, whence they spread out
in different directions, catching hold
of every object within their reach.
When thus treated, and kept ina
strong moist heat, the plants will
flower; but unless objects are near
for their roots to attach themselves
to, the plants will never be strong
and healthy. The native Vanilla is
used for putting into chocolate.

VASCULA‘RES are plants, the
leaves and stems of which contain
spiral vessels, in opposition to Cel-

lulares or plants which are composed | are natives of Britain. The greater

on the terrace of an Italian villa.
Wherever they are introduced, how-
ever, they should always stand on a
plinth, broader than the circular
base, as nothing can have a more
unartistical effect than to see a vase
resting on the bare ground.
VEGETABLE Ivory.—This cu-
rious substance is the albumen of
the seed of a plant called Phytéle-
phas, a native of the Gallipagos
Islands, and South America. The
seed is so hard that its albumen is
cut into thimbles, and various arti-
cles for the work-table, and indeed
is applied to nearly the same uses as
ivory.—See Puytx/LEPHAS.
Ve'LLa.— Crucifere.—-Theshrub-
by Cress Rocket.— V. Pseado-Cyti-
sus is one of the few Cruciferous
shrubs. It is evergreen, and only
grows two or three feet high, with
glaucous leaves and bright yellow
flowers, which appear in April and
May. It is a native of Spain, and
it was formerly considered a green-
house plant in England, but it is
now found to be hardy. It grows
best in calcareous loam, but it will
thrive in any garden soil ; and it is
very suitable for rock-work. It is
propagated by cuttings of the young
wood planted in sand under a glass.
Venvus’s Coms.—Scdndia Péc-
ten.—A British weed.
Venus’s Fry Trap.—See Dr-
ON#'‘A, .
Venvus’s Looxine-GuLass.—See
CaMpPa’NULA.
VersBa’/scum.—Solanacee.—The
Mullein, or Flannel Plant.—Showy
herbaceous plants, generally with
yellow flowers, and most of which

a

o

VERBENA. $25 VERBENA.

number of the species are biennials, by the first frost, if not protected.
and require the usual treatment of | It is a prostrate plant, and should
such plants (See Brennras); but V. | be pegged down over the bed it is
pheeniceum, one of the handsomest | intended to cover, when it will

species, is a perennial. They will all
grow in any common garden soil,
though they prefer one which issome-
what loamy ; and they are increased
by seeds, or by dividing the root.
VERBE'NA.— Verbenacee.—Ver-
vain.—Only a few years ago the
Verbenas were scarcely known in
flower-gardens, except by V. Au-
blétia, with pinkish flowers, and
V. Lambérti,

beauty. In 1827, the beautiful
Verbéna Melindres, or, as it is
sometimes called, V. chamedrifolia,
was introduced from Buenos Ayres,
and it directly became a favourite,
though for some years it was kept
carefully in the greenhouse, and
considered difficult to manage.
Since that time, however, numerous
other species have been introduced,
anil as they are found to hybridise
freely, and to ripen abundance of
seed, innumerable hybrids and va-
rieties have been raised. They are
all found to root freely from layers,
and to strike as freely from cut-
tings, and to thrive during summer
in the open air. They willall grow
in any light soil, though they thrive
best in peat or heath-mould; and
when once planted they require no
other care but occasional watering,
and they spread rapidly, producing
abundance of flowers. They have
thus become general everywhere ;
and it is now rare to see a garden
or a balcony without them, The
kinds principally cultivated are the
following: V. Melindres, the com-
mon scarlet Verbena, the colour of
which is the most brilliant scarlet.
It is, however, the most tender
kind of Verbena, and when planted
in the open air it is generally killed

with purple ones, |
neither of which possessed much |

| throw out roots at every joint. Its
| varieties, V. M. latifolia, and V.
| M. spléndens, which are probably
hybrids between V. Melindres and
| V. Tweedieana, are much more
hardy than the species, and they
| are naturally more upright-growing,
|though when pegged down they
throw out roots at every joint in
the same manner. V. ignea and
V. atrosanguinea are of a still more
intense and yet brilliant scarlet
|than V. Melindres, but the former
of these is difficult to keep through
_the winter. V. Tweedieina is an
| upright-growing plant with crimson
flowers, and it is very hardy. VJ.
| I. supérba is the best variety; V.
\incisa is also hardy and upright-
growing, but its flowers are of a
pale-pink and have a faded look.
V. Barnésii is nearly allied to this
species, but it has a less straggling
habit of growth, and the flowers
/are not so liable to fade. V. Ar-
| ranténa has an upright habit of
| growthand purplish crimson flowers,
| but it is very tender, and very apt to
| be attacked by aphides. V. Aubdlé-
Ke and V. Lambérti are prostrate
species and very hardy; V. Sabini,
pope prostrate species, has lilac
| flowers, and it has a variety with
| white ones. V. pulchélla is also
| prostrate, and so is V. sulphiurea,
|the flowers of which are yellow.
|The orange-coloured varieties were
‘introduced in 1843; the best are
V. speciosa, with a white centre,
and V. formdsa élegans. V.
_variegata and V. mirabilis are
salmon-coloured. V. Neill, YV.
teurcidides, and V. vendsa, are up-
right-growing. The first has lilac
flowers, the second white ones, and
the last purple ; the last two are

VIBURNUM.

of a very coarse habit of growth. | The

There are numerous varieties of V.
teurciodides, all of which are sweet-
scented; the two called the Queen

326

VIBURNUM.

Viburnum. — Ornamental

shrubs, generally with terminal co-

'rymbs of white flowers.

and the Princess Royal are of a pure |

white, particularly the latter. V.
Tagliont has large corymbs of
flowers of a silvery hue. Several
blue varieties were raised in 1843,
but they have all a tinge of lilac.
V. Lacinii and V. Hydrana are
said to be the most distinct. The
lemon-scented plant, Verbéna tri-
phylla, is now called Aloysia citrio-
dora.—See Aoy’sta.

Vero’/NIca. —Scrophularine. —
Speedwell.—Many of these kinds
are pretty perennial and annual
plants, generally with blue flowers,
natives of Britain, and other parts
of Europe. All these are of the
easiest culture, as they will grow

well in any common garden soil that |

One of
the best known of these, the Lau-
rustinus, V. 7inus, is an evergreen
bush, with white flowers that are
rose-coloured in the bud, and dark-
blue berries ; and it is very valuable
in town-gardens, as it flowers from

| December till March. It is a native
|of the south of Europe and the

north of Africa. There is a variety
with shining leaves and larger
cymes of flowers, but it is rather
more tender than the common kind.
When the Laurustinus is grown
near a dwelling-house, care should
be taken in spring, when the leaves
drop, to have them swept away
every day, as they have an ex-
tremely disagreeable smell when
they are decaying, and are said to
be very unwholesome. The tree

is tolerably light and at the same | Viburnum (V. Lentago) is a native
time moist; and they are propa-|of North America, and it forms a

gated by seeds, and by division of the
root. Many of these plants are very
suitable for rockwork. Within the
last few years, several very orna-
mental shrubby species, growing
from three feet to six feet high,
have been introduced ; and of these
the most ornamental are, V. salici-
folia or V. Lindleyi, and V. spe-
ciosa, both natives of New Zealand.
V. formosa is a native of Van Die-
men’s Land, and, notwithstanding
its name, is very inferior in beauty
to the New Zealand kinds. It is
the same as the V. diosmefolia of
some nurseries.
VERVAIN.—See VERBE‘NA.
VESICA'RIA.— Crucifere.—Her-
baceous plants, mostly with yellow
flowers, natives of Europe and Ame-
rica, that should be grown in sandy
loam, and which are propagated
by seeds or division of the root.
Vetcu.-—See Vr'cra.
VIBU’RNUM. — Caprifoliacee.—

very hardy and handsome low tree
in British gardens. It is also
valuable for the great abundance of
its berries, which are a favourite
food with birds. The Wayfaring
Tree, or Wild Guelder Rose (V.
Lantana), is another interesting
small tree; and V. cotinifolium is
a beautiful species from Nepal.
The most interesting kind of Vi-
burnum grown in small gardens
is, however, the Guelder Rose,
or Snowball Tree, V. O’pulus.
This is a deciduous shrub, a native
of Europe and part of Asia, which
is always found in a wild state in
swampy thickets. In a wild state
its principal beauty lies in its bright
red berries ; but in a state of cul-
tivation its heads of flowers become
so compact, of such a snowy white-
ness, as amply to justify its popular
name of the Snowball Trée. All
the Viburnums are hardy in British
gardens; and they will all grow

a NN eee

VIEUSSEUXIA.

freely in any common soil. They
are generally propagated by layers,
but cuttings will strike freely if
kept moist and in ashady situation.
When transplanted, the evergreen
species should be removed in Octo-
ber or November, as they have few
fibrous roots, and are very apt to
be killed by a continuance of dry
weather if they are transplanted in
spring.

Vi'cta. — Legumindse. — The
Vetch. The ornamental species are
generally pretty climbing plants,
with purplish flowers, natives of
Europe. Some of the kinds, how-
ever, have white, some pink, others
blue, and others pale-yellow flowers.
All the kinds grow freely in any
garden soil, though they thrive
most when the soil is deep and
sandy; and they are propagated by
seeds or division of the roots.

Victo‘RIA REGIA. — Nymphe-
acece.—A splendid aquatic plant, a
native of South America, the leaves
of which have been known to be
six feet in diameter, and the flowers
two feet in diameter. It is most
nearly allied to the Eastern Water
Lilies. It was named in honour of
her Majesty.

Viecssevu‘xta. — Jridew. — The
Peacock Iris. — These beautiful
flowers are better known under
their old names of J'ris pavonia
and More‘a, than under their pre-
sent almost unpronounceable appel-
lation. They are very nearly hardy,
and may be grown in the open border
if treated as the common kinds of
I’xra ; but as the bulbs are very
small and delicate, it is, perhaps,
safer to grow them in pots, in equal
parts of peat, vegetable-mould, and
sand, and to keep them dry, or to
take them out of the pots when
they have done flowering till the
planting or growing season returns
the following year.

327

VINE.

Vi'nca.—A pocynece.—The Peri-
winkle.—There are two species
common in British gardens, both
of which are creeping or trailing
evergreen shrubs, which will grow
freely under the shade of trees.
They both prefer a soft, moist soil,
which they can easily penetrate
with their long creeping roots. V.
major is the common species, and
V. minor only differs in the flowers
being smaller, and the whole plant
more delicate. The Periwinkle is
generally propagated by its runners,
which strike root from every joint,
like those of the strawberry, and
which only want dividing from the
parent to become plants. When it
is wished to make the Periwinkle
produce seeds, the plants should be
grown in a pot, and ail the lateral
shoots cut off.

VinE.—The common Vine (Vitis
vinifera) may often be introduced
with very good effect in ornamental
garden scenery, for covering a bower
or verandah, or training round
the window of a_breakfast-room.
Nothing can, indeed, be more
beautiful than a Vine in the last-
mentioned situation, forming a
framework, as it were, to the gar-
den beyond ; and with its beautiful
leaves looking almost transparent
in the morning sun. A Vine also
looks very well when suffered to
grow naturally among the tall trees
of a lawn or shrubbery as it hangs
itself from branch to branch in a
manner more graceful than any art
can hope to imitate. Vines thus
treated would have a very good
effect in the grounds of an Italian
villa. The three American species,
V. Labrisca, or the Wild Vine, V.
Vulpina, or the Fox Grape, and V.
riparia, or the sweet-scented Vine,
the flowers of which smell like
Mignonette, are all very suitable for
growing in the open air, from their

——— ee

VIOLET. on

8 VIOLET.

extreme hardiness. All Vines like
a very rich and somewhat moist soil,
and thrive best when their roots can
get access to a drain, sewer, or
muddy pont.

Vio'La. — Violacee. — Beautiful
perennial dwarf plants, natives of
Europe and North America, and
growing generally on the moist
shady banks in woods. There are
nearly 150 kinds grown in British
gardens, but the most common are,
V. odorata (see VIOLET), and V.
tricolor (see Heart’s-Easz). The
Fan-leaved Violet (V. flabellifolia),
and the Hollow-leaved Violet (V.
cuculata), are both American species,
with large and handsome flowers.
All the species should be grown in
peat and loam kept moist, and they
all thrive best in a shady situation.

VioLeT.—The common sweet-
scented Violet (V. odorata) is a
British plant, which grows in woods
or on and under banks. The white
Violets are found generally in cal-
careous soils; and the sweetest I
ever smelt were, I think, those I
have gathered growing among the
limestone rocks in the woods of
Dudley Castle. In garden culture,
however, what are called the Nea-
politan and Russian Violets, are
the most useful, as they flower
during the winter months; and of
these the Neapolitan are the sweet-
est. These delightful Violets, which
flower from October to April or
May, should be grown in pots or
boxes, where they can be covered
with a hand-glass in case of severe
frost. They should be propagated
by runners taken off in May, and
removed to prepared beds in the
open garden, the soil of which
should be composed of equal parts
of heath-mould, leaf-mould, and
strong yellow loam, but no dung.
The plants should be a foot apart
every way, and kept clear of run-

ners. They should be freely watered
during the summer months; but
in August they should be suffered
to become rather dry, to give them a
season of rest. About the middle
of September they should be re-
moved to the place where they are to
flower, and this should be so con-
trived as to allow them to have a
bottom-heat of 70° or 80°. The
best mode of effecting this is to
make a hotbed, the surface of which
is brought to within ten inches
of the lights. The plants should
be taken up with balls of earth
attached, and the space between
them filled in with yellow loam,
rotten dung, vegetable mould, and
heath-mould. After planting they
should be well and _ frequently
watered during two days with warm
water, and then again about a
month afterwards. With these ex-
ceptions, the plants are kept dry till
February. During severe weather
the hotbed must be covered with
mats, &c., admitting dry air when
practicable. The surface of the bed
should be covered with coarse river
sand to keep off the slugs. Another
mode is to take off the runners in
May, and to plant them at once in
the pots or boxes in which they are to
flower. These pots or boxes should
be well drained by having a layer
of potsherds of considerable thick-
ness at the bottom; and they
should be filled up with a compost
made of two-fourths of vegetable
mould, one of loam, and one of
silver sand. They should be co-
vered with a hand-glass during
heavy rains, or in frosty weather ;
and if the frost is very severe, a
mat should be put over the glass,
When the pots or boxes are intro-
duced into a sitting-room, they
should be watered twice a day, but
once will be sufficient if the plants
are grown in the open air. It must

> Cr ---rrrvm—vl

VISCUM. 329 VOLKAMERIA.

be observed that plants in a sitting-|on the lime, the sycamore, the
room, where a constant fire is kept, | willow, the poplar, and the ash;
are generally in an equal degree of | occasionally on the cherry, and some-
heat to a hot-house at 65°; only | times, though rarely, on pines and
the air of the living-room is much | firs. When the seeds begin to grow,
drier than that of the stove, and, | they send out first one or two roots,
to counteract this, additional water- | which ascend for a short time, and
ing is required. The common | then turn back tothe bark, on which
Violets only require planting on a | they fix themselves, like the sucker
sloping bank in a shady place, in a | of an insect. The other end after-
peaty soil, where they will have | wards detaches itself from the tree,
moisture, but where their roots | and becomesleavesandshoots. The
will not be exposed to the effects of | roots of the mistletoe descend be-
stagnant water. tween the bark and the young wood,

VireEr’s Buctoss.—SeeE‘cu1us. | and no intimate union takes place

Virer’s Grass. — See Scorzo- | between the old wood of the para-
NE‘RA. site and its supporter. This is

Virert1a. — Legumindse. — A | plainly shown in a piece of an old
very handsome low tree, a native of | thorn, given to me by H. L. Long,
North America, with drooping ra- | Esq., of Hampton Lodge, to which
cemes of white flowers, resembling |a mistletoe of very large dimen-

in form those of the Laburnum. It
grows freely in any sandy soil.

VIRGINIAN CREEPER.—See Am-
PELO’PSIS.

Virginian PoKke.—See Puyto-
LA’CCA.

Virein’s Bower.—Clématis Vi-
ticélla.

Vi'scum. — Loranthacece. — The
Mistletoe. This curious parasite
can hardly be called ornamental,
thongh it may be sometimes intro-
duced with effect to give an air of
antiquity to newly-planted pleasure-
grounds. It grows best on old can-
kered apple-trees, but it may be
made to take root on even a young

| Hone was attached. The wood of
the mistletoe is of a very fine pale
| yellowish tinge, and it is as hard
| and of as fine a grain as box, which
it greatly resembles, while that of
| the thorn is dark brown.
| Vrrvex. — Verbendcee. — The
_Chaste Tree.—The principal species
(are V. Agnus Castus, which is a
| dwarf shrub, with whitish flowers,
which will grow in any common
soil, and will generally stand out in
| British gardens, though it is some-
_ times killed by a severe winter ; and
| V. incisa, which has pretty palmate
| leaves, and purple flowers, but it is
so long before it puts out its leaves

tree, by pressing a berry in a crack | in spring, and looks so much as
in the bark, and then tying oiled | though it were dead before its
paper over it. As, however, the | leaves expand, that it is often
male and female flowers of the Mis- | thrown aside as worthless when it
tletoe are on separate plants, the is in perfect vigour ; it is generally
berries are not always fertile. Itis kept in a greenhouse, and grows in
a vulgar error to suppose that the peat andloam. Besides these, there
Mistletoe grows generally on the | are several hothouse species, natives
oak, as it is extremely rare on that | of the East Indies, which are not
tree in England ; it is found most | worth cultivating.

commonly on the apple, and next} Vi‘tis.—Ampelidee.—See Ving.
on the hawthorn; it is also found| VoLKameE‘ria. —Verbendcee.—

Seamer SS

WALKS.

330

WALKS.

Nearly all the plants formerly in-
cluded in this genus have been
removed to CLERODE’NDRUM, and it
now contains only two species, one
a stove shrub with white flowers,
from the West Indies; and the
other a half-hardy tree, with purple
flowers, from Nepal.

ACHENDO/RFIA. — Hemo-
doracee.—Bulbous and tuber-
ous-rooted plants with large panicles
of very showy flowers, which are
generally yellow. These plants have
rhizomas or under-ground stems, in
the scales of which, in some of the
species, little bulbs form, which, if
removed and planted, become dis-
tinct plants. These are the bulhous
kinds. The others have the same

kind of rhizoma or fleshy under- |

ground stem, but no bulbs form in
it. All the kinds are nearly hardy,
and they will thrive in the open
ground, provided the situation be
tolerably dry, without its being
necessary to take up their roots
during winter.

WAHLENBE’RGIA. — Campanu-
lacee. — Perennial and annual
plants, formerly considered as be-
longing to Campénula, and of which
Campénula grandiflora is the type.
They should all be grown in sandy
loam, and they are propagated by
seeds, or by division of the roots.

WaLKS may be considered with
reference to their direction, their
construction, and their management.
In a small garden, the direction of
the main walks should generally be
| governed by the boundary lines ;
and hence, in a plot of ground
which is square or oblong, the walks
should be straight and rectangular ;
| the object in such a case being to
| produce the beauties of regularity
and symmetry. On the other hand,

when the boundaries of a garden

‘are irregular, the surrounding walk

/may be irregular also; the object
in this irregularity being to create
a variety by contrast in the direc-
tion. When a garden bounded by
straight lines is so large as to con-
_tain an acre or two, and the whole
| of the interior is to be laid out as
a pleasure-ground, then the walks
may be varied in direction; the
boundary being concealed by trees
| and shrubs, or by artificial undula-
|tions of the soil. In general, it
bee! be laid down as a principle,
that all walks should be straight
when there is no obvious reason
why they should be otherwise ; and
hence, in the case of all winding
walks, if there is not a natural and
apparently unavoidable reason for
their deviating from the straight
line, an artificial reason ought to be
created. This may always be done
even on a flat surface, by the posi-
tion of trees and shrubs; or when
there is the slightest inclination to
inequality of surface, the same suffi-
cient reason may be created by
heightening theseinequalities. When
a winding walk bends to the right,
the trees and shrubs ought to be
chiefly conspicuous on the left side,
and on the contrary ; and the same
rule is applicable to the natural
or artificial inequalities. When a
walk is made perfectly straight,
the surface of the ground ought to
be perfectly even for some feet in
width on each side of the walk,
excepting in some few cases, such as
a straight terrace walk along a
regular uniform slope, in which
case the ground on one side of the
walk will rise regularly, and on the
other side will fall regularly. All
straight walks should lead to some
conspicuous object at the farther
end of the walk, and facing it, so
as to appear to belong to it; and
this object should be

seen the

———————————————————————E—————————————————E—————

WALKS.

351

WALKS.

moment the walk is entered upon. | them a chcice of form or line for its

Hence every straight walk should
have an object at each end, such as
a seat, an alcove, an archway, a
gate, a door, a statue, a fountain,
&c. A winding walk, on the con-
trary, requires no object at the
farther end to allure the spectator ;
because every turn has the effect of
an object by exciting his curiosity
and inducing him to advance to see
what is beyond. Where one walk
abuts upon or joins another at a
nearly right angle, it becomes sub-
ject to the same laws as a straight
walk ; and opposite to the abutting
point or place of junction there
ought to be a seat, astatue, or some
other object, partly to form a ter-
mination to the abutting or joining
walk, and partly to serve as an
obvious reason why the one walk
joins to the other at that point
rather than elsewhere. At the
same time other reasons for the
junction at that point may exist or
may be created ; for example,. the
surface of the ground may be favour-
able, or trees and shrubs may be
planted so as to render it appa-
rently impossible to join anywhere
else. It has been said, that in
laying out winding walks nature
should be imitated, and the track
of sheep in pastures, or of wild
animals on commons, have been
held up as examples :—

—‘‘ The milkmaid’s careless step

Has, through yon pasture green, from
stile to stile,

Imprest a kindred curve ; the scudding
hare

Draws to her dew-sprent seat, o’er
thymy heaths,

A path as gently waving.”—

But to imitate such walks would
be to copy vulgar nature; and
therefore art refines on these lines
by rendering them more definite and
elegant. In short, by exhibiting in

eee Oe

own sake; because of the various
lines or parts of lines found in acci-
dental foot-paths, or in the tracks
of hares, some must be more agree-
able to the eye than others, and it
is only these agreeable parts which
are to be imitated, and combined in
garden scenery. All this is founded
on the recognition of a principle
which is, or ought to be, the found-

ation of all the fine arts; viz. that |

nature is to be imitated, not to be
copied. To copy nature exactly as
she appears before us is the pro-
vince of common art, and may be
pleasing to many minds; but to
minds of culture and refinement,
nature requires to be copied in such
a manner or in such a medium as to
show art. If this were not the case,
and if we were to copy footpaths
exactly, then we should, of course,
not gravel them, or define them by
regular edges. Hence, when one
walk joins another, the angles of
junction should never be rounded off
in that extreme degree which is
found in public roads; where, in
turning out of one path into ano-
ther, an obtuse or rounded angle
seldom fails to be found. The
appearance of such an angle in
garden scenery, whether in carriage-
roads or foot walks, destroys all
allusion to high art: and hence,
in all gardens containing winding
walks which are much frequented,
the junctions of these walks with
others should be protected by trees
and shrubs, or by vases or other
architectural objects, in such a
manner as to render this rounding
of the angles of junction impossible.

The construction of walks, more
especially on soils which are not
naturally dry, and on surfaces which
are not level or nearly so, requires
considerable skill. The inclination
of the walk from one point to

WALES. 332 WALKS,

another should be so arranged as to| the turf at the sides. In the case
carry off the surface-water from | of dry soils with a porous subsoil of
rain or melting snows along the/| gravel, sand, or rock, drains may
edges of the walks, and the under-| be dispensed with altogether ; and
ground water by drains beneath the| in those parts of the country where
surface. On even surfaces even|the kind of gravel used does not
though not level, this is attended| bind so as to form a sufficiently
with little difficulty ; and one drain| smooth and compact surface to
under the centre of the walk, or on| prevent the water from sinking
one side of it will suffice for a|into it, the side gratings may be
considerable length, without any| dispensed with. In walks on very
branch drains to carry off the water | uneven surfaces, such as where they
which accumulates ; but where the| are conducted up and down de-
surface rises and falls alternately | clivities, considerable care in the
it is not only necessary to have a | construction is required, in order
drain under the walk throughout|to prevent the gravel from being
its whole length, but a branch drain | washed away during heavy rains or
to some natural outlet is essential | the thawing of snow. ‘Two things
at every change of surface. These | are requisite for this purpose ; very
drains are not only intended to | complete drainage, with gratings on
carry off the underground water, | both sides, not more than two or
but also that which collects on the | three yards apart ; and having the
surface, and finds its way to the| surface of the walk raised much
sides ; and for this purpose there | higher in the middle than usual, so
are small cross drains formed at|as to throw the water immediately
certain distances, which communi-| to the sides, and never to admit of
cate from the sides to the centre, |a current in the direction of the
and these side drains communicate | walk. The next requisite is a much
with the surface by a small up-| coarser gravel than usual, in con-
right tube or well, covered by an | sequence of which the water of rain
iron grating or by a flagstone|or snow cannot wash away the
pierced with holes, to admit the | sandy particles. The most effective
water. Sometimes the main drain, | mode, however, is to wash the
instead of being formed under the | gravel quite clean, so as to leave no
centre of the walk, is made at one | particle smaller than a large goose-
side, and sometimes in the case of | berry, or larger than a small apple,
walks through a lawn, the drain is | and to mix the whole with Roman
made under the turf; but in this| cement. Were it not for the dis-
case, as in the other, the small cross- | agreeable dark colour of asphalte,
drains communicate with it, and are | walks on steep declivities laid with
furnished with gratings on a level | this material would be preferable to
with the surface of the sides of the | any others, as being by far the
walk. In general these gratings | most durable.

are placed close to the edge of| In the operation of forming walks,
the walk, more especially when it | the first step, after the line has
passes through dug ground edged | been marked out, is to take the
with box, or where there is little | levels of the surface, so as to deter-
ground to spare; but when it | mine the degree of inclination neces-
passes through a lawn, the gratings | sary for carrying off the water, and
are best placed in small recesses in| also what quantity of soil will have

WALKS,
to be removed on each side of the
walk, so as to reduce the whole to
an uniform surface. The next step
is to mark out the width of the
walk, after which the soil is to be
excavated. The depth of the ex-
eavation will depend on the nature
of the subsoil. If that is dry and
absorbent, such as gravel or rock,

then the depth need not be more

than a foot or eighteen inches ; but
if the subsoil is retentive, such as
clay or loam, then the depth, at
least in the centre of the walk,
should be between eighteen inches
and two feet, and it should be at
least one foot in depth at the sides.
The drain may be made in the
centre, that being the deepest part ;
and this being done, the excavation
is to be filled up to within nine
inches of the surface with small
stones, broken brickbats, and such
like materials, which are to be well
beaten down with a rammer. On
this surface a Jayer, three inches in
thickness, of coarse gravel should
be laid and well rammed down ;
then the remaining six inches should
be filled in with the best gravel,
which should not be rammed, but
rolled after being raked to an even
surface. Ifthe walk is to be edged
with box, that should be planted
immediately before laying on the
three-inch stratum of coarse gravel ;
but if it is to be edged with turf,
the most convenient time for laying
it down is before putting on the
upper stratum of six inches.—See
Bu’xvus and Epernes.

The managements of walks con-
sists in keeping them clean by the
removal of all extraneous matters
from the surface, including weeds ;
and in preventing worms from. work-
ing in them, and throwing up casts.
Leaves and other extraneous matters
are removed by sweeping ; but weeds
must be hoed or pulled up. Every

353

WALLFLOWER.

time a walk is hoed, it ought to be
raked and rolled; and to preserve
the surface quite smooth and firm,
it ought always to be rolled as soon
after rainy weather as the surface
has become dry. To renew the
surface of walks, they may be
turned over once a year in spring;
but this is only advisable in the
case of fine-coloured gravels, such as
that of Kensington, in order to
present a fresh surface ; for, with
reference to the smoothness, firm-
ness, and easy keeping of the
walk, turning over the gravel is in-
jurious rather than otherwise. —
See GRAVEL.

Watt Cress.—See A’RABIS.

WALLFLOWER.—Common as this
flower is, it well deserves great
pains to be taken in its cultivation,
as its principal beauty is displayed
at a season when there are few
hardy plants in flower; the Cro-
cuses, Hyacinths, and Narcissi, are
just over, or beginning to decay,
and the annuals have not yet begun
to expand their blossoms. In April
and May the brilliant yellow and
dark orange of the Wallflowers give
a peculiar brilliancy and liveliness
to gardens, which without them
would present a naked and dull
appearance. The common Wall-
flower (Chetranthus Cheiri) is gene-
rally called a biennial, and it does
not flower till the second year after
sowing. It will, however, frequently
live three or four years in favour-
able situations. There are ten or
twelve varieties; some with rich dark
reddish brown flowers, called the
Bloody Wallflowers, and others of a
light yellow, with nearly all the
intermediate shades. There is also
one with dark purple flowers, and
another with purpleand pale yellow
flowers, the first of which has varie-
gated leaves. The dark and double-
flowered kinds should be grown in

SE eee eee ee
a
——— ae

| long.
| fully, and the end shculd be cut

WALLS.

O34

WALLS.

very rich soil,
manured. The remains of Celery
trenches used the previous year, or
part of the ground under an old
hotbed, will suit these flowers ex-
ceedingly well ; taking care to mix
a little sand with the soil, if it be
at all loamy, in order to lighten
it. As the varieties can never be
depended upon for coming true from
seed, the best way to preserve any
that are very rich in colour, or very
double, is to make cuttings of them
in May. These cuttings should be
from shoots of the current year, and
they should be about three inches
They should be cut off care-

smooth at a joint with a sharp knife.

| The leaves should then be cut off
| close to the stem, for about half the

length of the cuttings; and they
should be put into pots filled with
sandy loam, and vegetable mould,
about four ‘inches apart, and three
in apot. They should be sprinkled

| with water three times a-day, till

they have taken root which will be
known by their beginning to grow.
In many cases, the cuttings are
merely put into the open garden ;
choosing a shady place, and mixing
a little sand with the mould, when
the ground is dug over, before
planting them. C. mutabilis is a
half-shrubby evergreen, with dark-

parple, yellow, and lilac flowers,
and it requires a light rich soil.
C. alpinus is a dwarf plant, with
small yellow flowers, and is well
adapted for rockwork. The Stocks
which were formerly considered to
belong to this genus are now re-
moved to Matthiola. Both Stocks
and Wallflowers are frequently
called Gilliflowers, said to be a
corruption of girojlée, or perhaps of
jolies fleurs.

Watts for gardens are either
used as | Betas boundary Honey adit the | ean a. en fences, and at the

but not freshly |

same time for the purpose of train-
ing plants on, or they are erected in
gardens for the latter purpose only.

They may be formed of different
materials, according to those that
are most. abundant in any given
locality ; but the best of all walls
for garden purposes are those which
are built of brick. Stone walls are
durable and good; but the stones
being much larger ‘than bricks, the
joints between them are too far
apart for the purpose of neat train-
ing. Mud or earth walls, when
properly built, with a coping suffi-
cient to throw off the rain on every
side, are dry, warm, and very con-
genial to plants, but from the fra-
gile nature of the mud, they are not
well adapted for training on. These
two last kinds of walls should,

therefore, be covered with wire or
wooden trellis-work, to which the
plants may be tied. Walls made of
boards are very good, where they are
not required to be high ; and where
the boards are soaked with: tar, or
coated over with pitch, and placed
on a footing of brickwork, stone, or
oak plank, they will last many
years. Shelters, as substitutes for
walls, are formed of panels of reeds
covered with trellis-work ; or some-
times in Russia with wicker-work,

the interstices being caulked with
moss ; and both these kinds of sub-
stitutes for walls last a number of
years, when protected from per-
pendicular rains by copings which
project at least a foot on every side,
and when placed on footings which
secure them from the damp of the
soil. Walls have also been formed
for training on, by inserting large
slates or thin flag-stones, such as
the Caithness pavement, either in
the soil (in which case the walls
are not above four or five feet in
height), or in frames of timber or
iron, in which case they may be of

| any height rquired.

WALLS.

Such walls
are always covered with trellis-
work, to which the trees or plants
are attached. The most generally
applicable kind of walls, however,
and those which are by far the best
for garden purposes, are, as before
observed, those formed of brick.
When the wall is not intended to be
more than four or five feet in

| height, it need not exceed nine

inches in thickness ; and the thick-
ness of fourteen inches will admit of
ten feet in height ; the wall in both
cases being built without piers,
which are great impediments to
good training. With piers, the height
with any given thickness may be
increased one-fourth. In no case,
however, ought garden walls, or
indeed division or fence walls of
any kind which have not a load to
support perpendicularly, or a pres-
sure to resist on one side, to be
built with piers. The same object
may always be obtained by building
the walls hollow ; each side being of
the thickness of four inches and the
two sides being joined together by
cross partitions of four-inch work.
An excellent garden wall may thus
be raised to the height of twelve or
fourteen feet, with the same quan-
tity of bricks that would raise a
nine-inch wall to that height, with
the addition only of the bricks
necessary to form cross partitions
at every three or four feet. The
width of the wall may either be
fourteen or eighteen inches, the
vacuity in the former case being
five inches, and in the latter nine
inches. Where it is desired to save
the expense of a coping, the sides of
the wall may be gradually con-
tracted towards the top, so as to
finish with a coping of bricks set on
edge crosswise; but no wall in-
tended for fruit-trees or for tender-
flowering shrubs should ever be

335

WATER.

built without a protecting coping,
because the rains run down the face
of the wall, and render it moist
and cold at those seasons when dry-
ness and heat are most wanting,
viz., in spring, when the buds are
bursting, and in autumn, when the
young wood is ripening. The same
moisture and its alternation with
dryness, rots the mortar in the
joints of the bricks, and greatly
injures and disfigures the face of the
wall. When, therefore, walls are
built without projecting copings, the
exterior joints ought invariably to
be pointed with stucco, as in France
and Italy, or with Roman cement.
Walls of nine inches in thickness.
and even four-inch walls, if built in
a winding or zigzag direction, may
be carried to a considerable height
without either having piers or being
built hollow ; and such walls an-
swer perfectly for the interior of
gardens. Hollow walls of every
description may also be built at less
expense by placing the bricks on
edge instead of being laid flat ; and
not only garden walls, but those of
cottages and farm-buildings may be
constructed in this manner. Length-
ened details on this subject will be
found in Mr. Loudon’s Encycno-
PHDIA OF CoTTacE, Farm, AND
VittaA ARCHITECTURE, and in his
VILLA GARDENER.

For further particulars respecting
the use of walls in ornamental gar-
dens, see CONSERVATIVE WALL.

WaRRATAH. — See TELO‘PEA. —
There is also a Warratah Camellia ;
so called because its bright crimson
colour resembles that of the true
Warratah plant or Telépea of Botany
Bay.

WarTER, in gardening, may be
considered with reference to its use
in vegetable culture, and to its effect
in landscape. When water is too

aburdant in any soil, it is to be

KS SSA i sss

WATER.

336

WATER.

removed by surface or underground | autumn. It would produce astonish-

draining ; and the rain, or thawing
snow which produces water on the
surface, is to be conveyed away by
similar means. See WALKs. Water,
as an element of culture, is next in
importance to soil, for plants can
no more subsist without the one
than without the other. All plants
in a highly artificial state, even in a
moist climate like that of Britain,
require water occasionally ; for ex-
traordinary excitement by means of
soil, or manure, or artificial tempe-
rature, will be ineffective unless
seconded by water. For all ordi-
nary purposes, it is sufficient to
pour the water on the surface of

i

the ground, but if the operation of |

watering were carried to the full
extent of which it is susceptible, it
would be supplied subterraneously
by underground drains, as is some-
times done in fen lands, and not

| unfrequently in reclaimed bogs, both

in Great Britain and Ireland. Where
the soil of a garden is to be made

| the most of, there should be a sub-

stratum of gravel or small stones,
with drains or small tunnels, or
perforated tubes of earthenware at
regular distances, communicating
with a supply of water a few feet
above the surface of the soil, by
which water might be admitted at
pleasure, so as to irrigate the whole
of the under strata, and to supply
moisture to the roots of the plants
altogether, independently of what
they might receive either artificially
or naturally from the surface. This
would be of great advantage in dry
soils, not only to crops of herbaceous
vegetables, and to the plants of
flower-gardens, but to fruit-trees,
forest-trees, and useful or orna-
mental shrubs. It would be more
especially useful, in the case of
orchards, to set the blossoms in
spring, and to swell off the fruit in

o

ing effects in the case of fruit-trees
planted against walls, and on vines
planted on prepared borders, and on
peach-trees in a state of forcing.
The only objection to this mode of
applying water is the expense.

Water, considered with reference
to its quality, should be without
the admixture of extraneous mi-
neral substances, such as acids or
alkalies ; and it should be of the
same temperature as the soil, or
higher rather than lower. In order
that it should it be of the same
temperature as the soil, it is neces-
sary to expose it to the action of
the atmosphere in ponds or basins,
before using, and even when taking
the water from such ponds or
basins the surface-stratum of the
water ought always to be taken, by
dipping in the watering-pot in such
a manner as that only the surface
of the water should run into it. In
the application of water to plants,
the most general mode is to pour it
at their roots ; but in doing this it
is not necessary that the water
should touch the stems or the collar
of the plant. On the contrary, the
stems of tender plants, and even
the soil for an inch or two ail round
them, are better kept dry; because
the moisture on the collar is apt to
create decay. The fibres which ab-
sorb the moisture and convey it to
the leaves of the plants, are always
extended to some distance from the
stem ; and hence it follows that a
plant may be moistened imme-
diately round the stem without ren-
dering it any service, but, on the
contrary, incurring the risk of rot-
ting it ; while if watered at some
distance from the stem, it may be
nourished in reality, and yet have
the appearance of being starved for
want of moisture.

For certain kinds of plants, such

WATER. Ber WATER.

as the Hydrangea and the Balsam, | the stone margins being always in
Cock’s-combs, Chrysanthemums, and | part, at least, near the eye.

others which are of vigorous growth,| Water in imitation of nature
water may be mixed with manure ; | should be in ponds or basins of irre-
such as concentrated stable-dung, | gular shape; but always so con-
recent sheep’s-dung, or any other trived as to display one main fea-

description of animal manure which
is soluble in water. For some plants,
such as heaths, and most of the hair-
rooted shrubs and herbs, this liquid
manure is found to be injurious ;_ but
for many others, applied, when they
are in a growing state, it is found

| greatly to increase their vigour.

Water, asan element of landscape
scenery, is exhibited in small gar-

' dens either in ponds or basins, of

regular geometrical, or architectural
forms ; or in ponds or small lakes
of irregular forms, in imitation of
the shape seen in natural landscape.
in general, all geometrical or archi-
tectural basins of water ought to
have their margins of masonry, or at
least of stones, placed so as to imi-
tate a rocky margin. The reason

| is, that by these means the artificial

character is heightened, and also a
colour is introduced between the sur-
rounding grass, vegetation, gravel,
or dug-ground, which harmonises
the water with the land. Artificial
shapes of this kind should never be
of great diameter, because in that
case the artificial character is com-
paratively lost, and the idea of

nature occurs to the spectator.

When round or square, they should
not be of greater diameter than the
house or building to which they
belong ; but a better effect would

_ be produced by their being smaller,

as is shown in the architectural
basins of Italy, and the tanks of
Persia and India. When of oblong
forms, they may be of any length,
provided they are never of any great
breadth ; because in this case they
never can be seen in such a manner

as to obliterate the idea of high art, |

| ture or breadth of water. A pond,
| however large it may be, if equally
broken throughout by islands, or
by projections from the shores, can
have no pictorial beauty ; because
it is without effect, and does not
form a whole. The general extent
and outline of a piece of water
being fixed on, the interior of the
pond or lake is to be treated en-
tirely as a lawn.’ If small, it will
require no islands; but if so large
as to require some, they must be
distributed towards the sides, so
as to vary the outline and to har-
monise the pond with the surround-
ing scenery, and yet to preserve
one broad expanse of water exactly

in the same manner as, in varying |

a lawn with shrubs and flowers,
landscape-gardeners preserve one
broad expanse of turf. The margin
of pieces of water in imitation of
nature, should be a refined imita-
tion of what is seen in natural lakes.
The turf should never exactly touch
the water, because the green of the
one and the blue of the other do
not harmonise. In nature, the
harmony is provided for by the
water sinking lower at one time
than it does at others; which leaves
a dark line of soil even in the most
unfavourable cases, and a narrow
line of bright gravel or sand in
cases best deserving imitation. As
substitutes for gravel, stones may
be introduced here and there; and
grouped either with plants on the
shore or with aquatics, and the
shades and reflection of these will
produce a degree of intricacy and
force of effect which will complete
the beauty of the scene.

N

|
|

WATERING POTS.

338

WATER PLANTAIN.

In the placing of water, whether
in imitation of nature or in the
creation of artificial character, re-
gard should always be had to the
surrounding scenery. Water in
landscape attracts the eye more
powerfully than any other material,
and therefore it should never be
placed near a boundary, or near
any object to which it is not desir-
able to attract attention. Water in
imitation of nature should also be
placed in what is in reality or in
appearance the lowest part of the
grounds; but this rule does not
apply to water in highly artificial
forms.

Water CattTrops.—See Tra‘Pa.

Water FLaNNEL.—A very curi-
ous substance, resembling a kind of
grey cloth, about a quarter of an
inch thick, which is occasionally
thrown by rivers upon the meadows
they overflow. When examined
by a microscope, this cloth will be
found to consist of a great num-
ber of plants of Conférva crispa
or capillaris (which has the pro-
perty of entwining its curling stems
together, so as to form large beds),
coated over with carbonate of lime.
The stems of the Conférva are so
closely woven together, and the
insterstices are so completely filled
up by the starchy seeds of the plant,
and the chalky covering that is
spread over them, as to form a
sufficiently compact mass to make
into articles of clothing ; and it is
said that waistcoats have actually
been made of it.

WATERING Pots are generally
formed of tinned-iron, painted ; but
a cheaper kind, nearly as durable
is formed of zinc, which requires no
paint. Watering pots are of differ-
ent sizes, and in every garden
having plants in pots there ought
to be three sizes:. large, for the
open garden; smaller, for plants

|

|

in pots under the hand; and yet
smaller, and with a long tube or
spout, for pots on a shelf, or ata
distance from the operator.

WaTERING.—See WATER.

WatTER-LEAF. — See Hynpro-
PHY’LLUM.

Water Lity.—See Nympuz‘s
and NELU/MBIUM.

Water Puiants are those which
must have their roots and a portion
of the stalk submerged in water, in
contradistinction to marsh plants,
which only need to have their roots
constantly kept moist. Most water-
plants require to be planted, or to
have their seeds sown, in a layer
of soil at the bottom of the cistern
or aquarium in which they are
grown, if they are tender plants ;
or in the soil at the bottom of a
pond or other piece of water, in the
open ground, if they are hardy.
Most water-plants have their leaves
and flowers always above the sur-
face of the water ; and others raise
themselves above the water in the
day, when their flowers are ex-
panded, and sink below it at night,
when their flowers are closed up,
so as not to be injured by the
water. To enable them to do this, if
the water should be deep, the stems
are sometimes unnaturally elon-
gated, and consequently they become
weak, and unable to flower, or per-
fect their seeds properly. To avoid
the inconvenience of this, a frame-
work is sometimes fixed in the
margin of the pond to hold the pot
in which the plant grows, and to
keep it at a proper depth in the
water. When plants are placed
in the beds of rivers, a stone should
be laid on the roots to keep them
in their proper place, and to prevent
them from being washed away by
the stream.

Water Prantain.— Alisma.—
British marsh plants.

(a ee

ee SO

WEIGELA. 339 WHEELBARROW.

Water REEeD.—Ariindo Dénazx. | more ornamental. W. rdsea is a

—See Arvu’Nnpo. half-hardy shrub, with a profusion
Water Starwort.—Callitriche | of beautiful rose-coloured flowers.
aquatica. WEINMA’NNIA. — Cunoniacee.

WatER SOLDIER. — Stratidtes|—Stove shrubs, which should be
alotides. —This curious British | grown in peat and loam, and which

plant, when rooted in the mud at} are propagated by cuttings of the
the bottom of ponds or other pieces| young wood. The flowers are
of still water, sends out long run-| whitish, and something like those
ners, which rise to the surface, and | of the Melaletca.

there protrude roots. Then de-| WELLINGTONIA. — Conifere. —
taching themselves from the parent | A great interest has been excited
plant, they float about till they | respecting this tree, on account of
have blossomed and perfected their | the specimen exhibited in London
seeds ; after which they sink down | in 1856 and 1857, of a portion of
to the bottom, where, fixing them- | its bark, formed intoa room. The
selves in the mud, they ripen their | tree in its native country, California,
seeds, which sow themselves, and|is about three hundred feet high,
thus give birth to new plants, | and thirty-two feet in circumference

which send out fresh runners, to | at four feet from the ground. The

rise to the surface the following! cones are very small; and the |
summer. When this plant is to be whole tree has not at all the ap- |
grown in pleasure-grounds or cis- | pearance of the ordinary pines and |
terns, it is only necessary to throw | firs, the foliage (which is something

some plants of it into the water to like Thuja) spreads less in the
which they are to be transferred, at | lower branches than at the head of
the time they are floating about i in | the tree.

their detached state; and at the WernpLa’npIA. — Menisperma-
proper season they will sink and | cee.—A climbing shrub, nearly
take root in the mud at the bot- | | allied to Menispérmum, formerly
tom. These plants are worth | called Cécculus carolinus. It re-
growing, on account of the curious | quires a little protection during
manner in which they illustrate the | winter.

beautiful economy of nature. | WHEELBARRow.—A wheelbar-
Water VioLETt.—Hottinia pa- | row is a necessary appendage to
lastris.—See Horro'nta. /every garden; and one -intended

Water Yam.—SeeOvuvira’NDRA. | for the use of a lady ought to be
Wartso'nta.—Jridew.— Bulbous | "made as light as possible, and the
plants, very nearly allied to Gla- handles curved so as to require very
diolus ; and which require exactly | little stooping. The wheel also
the same culture as plants of that | ought to be made broad, to prevent

genus.—See GLADI'oLvs. it from injuring the walk. In ad-
Wax Tree.—Ligtstrum luci-| dition to the wheelbarrow, there
dum.—See Licvu’strum. may be a hand-barrow, consisting
WAYFARING TREE.—See VI-| of a square basket with two long
BU’RNUM. -poles, so as to be carried between
WeIcE'LA. — Caprifoliacee. —| two persons; the use of this being

Very beautiful shrubs, natives of|to hold the haulm of Sweet Peas,
China, introduced in 1845, allied | the long stalks of perennial plants,
to the Fly Honeysuckle, but much! clippings of box, dead flowers, &c.

zZ2

| &e., which are not heavy, but |

WILLOW.

340

WISTARTA,

the botanical divisions of the genus

| which take up a great deal of room. | Salix, which are very numerous,

These waste articles should be

carried to the reserve ground, where

they should be laid in a heap to rot
for manure. A great part of the
beauty of a flower-garden depends
on removing withered flowers and
all unsightly objects as soon as is
possible without injuring the plants
to which they belong.

Wuirt Beam Tren. — Pyrus
A’ria.—See Py'rvs.

Waite Cepar.—Cupréssus thy-

| oldes.

| plant,

Wuitto'via.—Hydrophyllacec.
—A very pretty and quite hardy
annual from California, with purple
tube-shaped flowers.

WuitLow-crass.—See Dra‘sBA.

WHORTLE-BERRY.— See Vaccr’-
NIUM.

Witp Buctoss. — Lycopsis. —
British and American annual plants,
some of which are pretty, and which
will grow in any common soil.

Witp Liquorice.—A‘brus pre-
catorius.—A climbing leguminous
with pale-purple flowers,

| and very beautiful red and black
_ seeds ; a native of the West Indies.

| The root tastes like liquorice.

In
England the plant should be grown

| -s .. :
| in sandy peat, and it requires a
| stove.

The seeds are used for
making necklaces.
WILD OLIve. —Several plants are

| known by this name; but the one
| most commonly so called is the

Elzagnus. ‘Three other plants,

' called the Wild Olive, are the Rhis

Cétinus, the common Daphne, and
Nyssa sylvatica, or the Tupelo Tree.
Notelz'a is also sometimes known

_ by the same name.

WILD Service.—P9rus tormind-
lis.—See Py'‘rus.

Wi Tayme.— Thymus Serpil-
lum.

WILLOw.—See Sa‘trx.—Besides

Willows are divided into three or
four distinct kinds ; viz., the Wil-
lows which include all the trees,
and generally all that have smooth
shining leaves ; the Osiers, which
are the shrubby species with long
pliant shoots; and the Sallows,
which have thick, shaggy leaves.
The wood of the tree kinds is white,
and, being very soft and elastic, it
is used for making bats for crickei-
players, wooden mallets, and other
purposes, where wood is required
that will bear a heavy blow without
splitting ; the Osiers are used for
basket-work ; and the Withies,
which are a diminutive kind of
Osier, for tying up bundles. All
the Willows grow best in moist
marshy land ; and they are all pro-
pagated by cuttings, which strike
with the greatest facility.

WILLOW-HERB.—See HPILo'BIUM.

WILLOW-0AK.—-Quércus Phéllos.
—-An American Oak, with very nar-
row Willow-like leaves.

WINDOW - PLANT. — See OvvI-
RA‘NDRA.

WINGED PEa.—Ldthyrus aldtus.
—See Latuy'‘rus.

Winter Aconite.—See Era’n-
THIS.

WInTER BeRRY.—See Pri'nos.

WINTER CHERRY.—See Puy’sa-
LIS.

Winter Cress.—Barbaréa vul-
garis.—A cruciferous plant, with
handsome yellow flowers. A dou-
ble-flowered variety of the common
Winter Cress is called the Yellow
Rocket.

WINTER GREEN.—See Py’RoLA.

WirEworM.— The ver blanc of
the French.

Wisra‘r1a.— Leguminose.
Climbing shrubs, with drooping
racemes of beautiful purple or lilac
fragrant flowers, which in shape

rrr SS ets Spo vs sss pes ispresle

WOOD-LOUSE.

541

greatly resemble those of the Labur-| they are now no longer esteemed.

num. The commonest kinds are
W. sinénsis and W. frutéscens, but
some other species have been lately
introduccd by Dr. Sieboldt from
Japan. For some particulars re-
specting W. sinénsis, see GLuY/cINE;
and to these may be added that, in
the summer of 1840, the plant in
the London Horticultural Society’s
Garden had more than nine thousand
racemes, containing in all about
675,000 separate lowers. W. fru-
téscensisa much smaller plant, with
closer racemes of flowers, which are
small and of a dark-purple. It is
a native of North America. Both
plants require a rich soil, and to be
frequently watered in dry weather.

Wircu HazeLt.—See HAMAME'LIS.

Witry.—Those kinds of shrubby
Willows which have long flexible
shoots.

Woav.—See Isa‘ris.

Wotr’s BanE.—See Acontr‘tum.

W oopBINE.—See CAPRIFOLIUM.

Woop-Lovusge.—Oniscus aséllus.
—These creatures are exceedingly
destructive, particularly to succu-
lent plants and Dahlias. They be-
long to the Crustacea, and possess
the power, when alarmed, of curling
themselves up like a hedgehog, so
as to resemble a little ball-like shell.
They are fond of creeping into any
dark places, and are frequently
caught by laying small flower-pots
sideways with hay in them, near the
plants which have been attacked.
They will also creep into reeds, or
the hollow stalks of Rhubarb, and
all these traps are used to prevent
their ravages on Dahlias. Very
frequently small flower-pots may be
seen inverted on the stakes which
support Dahlias, solely to serve as a
trap for these creatures. Wood-lice
were formerly supposed to be useful
in medicine, but, like many reme-
dies that were formerly popular,

When young they are white, and in

WORMS. |

}
I
}
/

this state they are frequently found |

in great numbers in the ant-hills, |
living with the ants in perfect har- |

mony ; they are then very small,
and if examined closely, they will
be found to have one segment of the
body and one pair of legs less than
when full grown. This circum-
stance, combined with the difference
of colour, has led many persons to
fancy the creatures found in the
ant-hills to be different from com-
mon wood-lice, though, in fact, they
are exactly the same,

Wooproor.—See AsPE’/RULA.

Woop Sace.—TZeticriwm Scoro-
donia.—One of the British kinds of
Germander.

Woo’psta. — Filices. — A very
beautiful kind of British Fern, with
very delicate leaves. One species is
a native of Brazil.

Woop Sorret.—See O’XAtIs.

W’oopwarp1a.—Filices,--Exotic
Ferns, natives of North America and
Madeira.

Worms.—The common earth-
worm (Lumbricus terréstris) is a
most destructive creature in flower-
pots. It has been ascertained that
worms swallow earthy matter, and
that, after. having deprived it of its
nourishing properties, they eject the
remainder in the form of what are
called worm-casts, and which in-
stinct teaches them to throw out of
their burrows, to the surface, -that
they may not be in danger of swal-
lowing it again. To find fresh earth,
the worm is continually incited to
penetrate the ground in different
directions ; while, after each repast,
it is induced to return to the surface
to eject its cast; and thus ground
inhabited by worms is sure to be
thoroughly perforated and pulve-
rised. In a field, this has a good
effect, as it lightens the soil, and

'.the worm drags after it along the

WRIGHTIA.

342

XEROTES.

renders it pervious to the air and
rain ; but in a pot, every passage of |
the worm tears asunder the roots of |
the plant, which are pressed close
together from the smallness of the
space in which they are confined,
and thus it does a serious injury.
The common earthworm moves by |
bristles, with which the rings of his |
body are furnished, and which |
enable it to move either backwards |
or forwards at pleasure; and it|
emits a slimy substance which fa-
cilitates its passage through the
earth ; this slimy matter adheres to |
leaves and other substances, which

surface of the ground, but which,
as it cannot take them through its
passages, they being only large |
enough to admit its own body, it
leaves at the mouth of the hole,
where it disappears. Whena worm
is cut in two, it is generally be- |
lieved that both parts will become |
perfect worms; but, in fact, only |
the part which contains the head |
possesses the power of throwing out |
a new tail; and the part containing
the tail cannot. form a new head.
Worms are produced from eggs ; and
they are always most abundant in
rich humid soil. When the casts
are seen on the surface of the earth
in a pot, no time should be lost in
turning out the earth on the hand,
and picking out the worms. The
roots torn asunder should then be
thrown away, and the plant re-
potted in fresh earth.
Wormwoop.—See ArtEemr’sIA.
Wounpwort.—Anthyllis Vulne-
raria.—A British plant, only found
in chalky soils.
Wrack Grass.—See ZostE ‘Ra.
Wari'GHtia.—A pocgnew. — Hot-
house trees, natives of the East
Indies, which were formerly con-
sidered to belong to the genus
Neévium. One of the species, W.

coccinea, has splendid flowers; it
should be grown in sand and peat.
The other kinds have white flowers.

ANTHORHI‘ZA. — Ranuncu-
lacee.—Y ellow-root.—-An Ame-
rican shrub, with very neat dark-
purple flowers, which are produced
early inspring, and handsome leaves.
It will grow in any common garden
soil, and it is increased by suckers
from the roots.

XANTHO’XYLUM. — Rutdcee, or
Terebinthacee. --The Toothache-tree.
—Trees and shrubs, most of which
require a stove in England, and
should be grown in a sandy loam.
X. fraxineum, the Prickly Ash, is
an American shrub, the bark of
which is aromatic, and is considered
very efficacious in rheumatism. It
is hardy in British gardens, and
will grow in common soil. X, niti-
dum, which has strong thorns on
the mid-ribs of its leaves, is used as
a hedge plant in China.

XERA/NTHEMUM.—Compésite.—
Purple Everlasting Flower.—Very
beautiful annual flowers, which may
either be sown in the open ground
in April, or raised on a hot-bed, and
planted out in May; the only ad-
vantage by the latter plan being
that the plants flower earlier. They
are very beautiful, and well-deserving
of a place in every flower-garden.

XeERopPHY ‘LLUM.— Melanthacee.
Singular plants with long, narrow
leaves, and spikes of pretty white
flowers. The species are natives of
North America, and quite hardy in
British gardens, where they should
be grown in peat and loam. X.
gramineum is a peculiarly desirable
species, from its loose and elegant
spikes of small star-like white
flowers.

Xxu/ROTES. —/tincece. —Rush-like
plants, natives of New Holland,

‘

YELLOW VETCHLING.

343

YUCCA.

country ; and which are not worth
the trouble of growing.
XIMENE's1Ia.— Compésite.—An-
nual and perennial plants, natives
of Mexico, with yellow flowers,
which will grow in any common
garden soil. There are two biennial
species, which should be kept in a
frame during winter, and trans-
planted to the open border in
spring.

Xyto‘sium.— Orchidacee.— Bra-
zilian parasites, growing on trees,
and requiring a stove in England.—
For their culture, see ORCHIDEOUS
EPIPHYTES.

XYLOPHY’LLA. — Luphorbiacee.
—Very curious shrubs, which pro-
duce their flowers on the margins of
their leaves. Theyare mostly natives
of Jamaica, and require a stove in
England. The flowers are generally
greenish, but those of X. montdza,
the Sea-Side Laurel, are of a bright
yellow. They are generally grown
in sandy peat.

XyLo’steuM.—The Fly Honey-
suckle.—See Lon1’ceRA.

7 AM.—Dioscorea. — Herbaceous
plants, natives of the tropics,
generally with greenish-white flowers,

| the tuberous roots of which are

eaten as a substitute for Potatoes.
The stems of most of the species
are weak, and cannot support them-

| selves.

Yarrow.—Achilléa Milefolium.

YELLow Rattue. — Rhindnthus
major.—A British plant, which is
very ornamental, from its yellow
labiate flowers having each a bright
dark eye.

YELLow Root. —See XantTHOo-
RHI'ZA.

YELLow Suttan.—See AMBER-
BO‘A.

which require protection in this|

A’'phaca.—-A British climbing Vetch,
with yellow flowers, only found in
sandy soils.

YetLtow Wort.—Chlora perfo-
liata. —A British annual, with
glaucous leaves and yellow flowers.
It is always found in a wild state in
chalky soils, and it will seldom grow
in gardens unless the soil be chalky,
or of a calcareous loam.

Yew TREE.—See Ta’xus.

Yucoa.— Lilidcee, or Tulipacee.
—Adam’s Needle.—Evergreen plants
with leaves like the Aloe, and some-
times a stem, or rather trunk, like
a Palm-tree. Some of the species
have been known to have a trunk
twenty feet high, sending up, every
year, five or six immense flower-
stems, each six or eight feet high.
In ordinary cases, however, the
trunk is rarely more than two or
three feet high, though the flower-
stem frequently measures five or
six feet. The flowers are bell-
shaped, and generally white. The

FIG. 60.—YU’CCA DRACONIS.

commonest kinds in British gar-
dens are Y. gloridsa, Y. draconis,
and Y. filamentosa. All these are
natives of North-America, and are
quite hardy in Britain; they have
all white flowers, and they are Aloe-

YELLow VetcHiinc.—Ldthyrus | like shrubs, presenting the general

cen eS SsnhssS SsSSSSSSShSSS sss sssiehshStsssssss SSS SSS

ZAUSCHNERIA. 344

appearance shown in fig. 60, which
was taken from a plant of Y. dra-
conis. Y. aloifolia, on the con-
trary, always forms a palm-like a
from twelve to twenty feet high ;

is rather more tender, and ore
flowers are purplish on the outside
and white within. All the kinds
prefer a deep sandy soil, and they
are all propagated by suckers. They
will all grow close to the sea-side,
and are therefore very suitable for
the grounds of marine villas. They
also produce a good effect in vases,
on the terrace garden of an Italian
villa, as they form an excellent sub-
stitute for the Agaves, so common
in Italy, but which are too tender
for the open air in England.

—Several botanical names be-
* ginning with X are occasionally
spelt with Z.
Zamia.—Cycadee.—Very curious
Palm-like plants, with short, tuber-
cle-like stems, and long, frond- like
leaves, which are stiff and leathery,
and stand erect round the stem.
The remains of the foot-stalks of
the old leaves form a scaly kind of
bark to the stem. The flowers are
dicecious; and the fruitis an oblong,
erect, scaly nut, which is hard and
bony. The species are mostly na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope, but
some are found in the West Indies ;
and one, Z. spiralis, in New South
Wales. The plants should be grown
in very sandy loam, and they are
generally propagated by off-sets.
‘They are very tenacious of life, and
when the centre of the stem is rot-
ten, the scale, if planted, will gene-
rally send up leaves, and become a
separate plant.
ZANTHO’XYLUM.—See XANTHO’-
XYLUM.
ZAUSCHNE'RIA. — Onagracee. —
A very singular plant, having bright

ZINNIA.

| scarlet flowers, which bear a consi-

derable resemblance to those of a
Fuchsia. The plant is a hardy per-
ennial, a native of California, whence
it was introduced by Mr. Hartweg |
in 1847.

Ze‘a.—Graminee.-—The Indian |
Corn.—An annual plant, a native of
America. ‘The plant is very orna-
mental, and the male blossoms are
particularly elegant. It should be
grown in rich mould, and it should
be sown very early in spring ; or it
may be raised on a hotbed, and
transplanted into the open ground
in May.

ZEBRA PLant. — Calathea ze-
brina.—Cane-like plants, with red
and yellow, purple and yellow, or
white flowers; natives of Brazil,
which require a stove in England,
and which should be grown in sandy
peat.

ZEDOARY.—Curcima Zedoaria.

Zrno'bIA.—Lricacee.—The new
name given by the late Professor
Don to a species of Andrémeda.

ZeEPHYRA'NTHES. —Amaryllida-
cea.—Cape bulbs, with very elegant
flowers. Nearly all of the species
are quite hardy, and only require
planting like the Crocus, in a warm
border, in a somewhat sandy soil,
without wanting any further care,
except occasionally taking them up,
every third or fourth year, to remove
the offsets.

Zi’cuya.—Legumindse.—Baron
Hiigel’s new name for some of the
kinds of Kennz‘pya.

Zi'NGIBER.— Scitaminee. —The
Ginger.—Stove plants, with small
flowers, which are produced in a
very curious spathe, and a fleshy
rhizoma, or wunder-ground root.
One of the species is the common
Ginger.

Zi’ NNia.— Composite. — Beauti-
ful annual flowers, natives of Mexico,
which should be raised on a hot-bed,

El

ZOSTERA.

and planted outin May, See Hatr- |

HARDY ANNUALS. p. 19.

Zi’zyPuus. --Rhamndcee.—Half-
hardy shrubs, some of which are
frequently grown in British gardens.
—See JususE TREE, and Patiu'rvs.

ZostE'Ra.— Fluviales. —Wrack-
grass, or Grass-wrack.—A marine
plant, common in salt-water ditches.
The leaves, when dry, are tough
and flexible; and they have been

345

|

ZYGOPHYLLUM.

ZYGOPE’ fALUM.—Orchidacew.—
Showy orchideous plants, which
in their native state are found
growing on the branches of trees,
and which should be grown on wood
in the stove.—For their culture,
see OrncHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

ZYGOPHY’LLUM. — Rufdcee, or

Zygophyllee.—The Bean Caper.—

Greenhouse and hardy perennials,
which will grow in any common

lately used for filling beds and | garden soil, that is somewhat loamy.

cushions.

They are propagated by cuttings.

|

|
|
“a

_ strong solution of salt and water. If the weather should be mild and |

Monthly Calendar

OF

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

JANUARY.

THE gravel walks should be occasionally rolled, particularly after slight
rain; and after a thaw, heavy rain, or melting snow, care should be
taken to open the drains, and keep them clear of rubbish and withered
leaves, which are very apt to choke them up. Snow should never be
suffered to lie on the walks of small gardens, as it is apt to render them
soft ; and gutters or drains should be provided on each side, particularly
on sloping ground, to prevent the heavy rains from ploughing up the
walks, and washing away the gravel. If the season should be wet and
rather mild, weeds will begin to appear on the gravel walks, when they
should be instantly destroyed either by hand-picking, or watering with a

dry, air may be given to the greenhouse ; and to half-hardy plants kept
in pits, or planted in the open ground and covered during winter. The
latter kind of plants are very apt to damp off, if kept too close in mild
weather. Honeysuckles, Clematises, and other deciduous climbing plants,
may be pruned if the weather be open ; and the dead wood should be cut
out of flowering trees and shrubs. Snails and slugs may be destroyed in
this month, as they will begin to move if the weather be mild ; and the
easiest way of killing them is to throw them into a cistern or other very
large vessel of water, where they will be soon drowned ; but if the vessel
is small, they will creep out.

FEBRUARY.

Iy this month the borders are dug over and manured; the best general
manure being the remains of an old hotbed, or of celery trenches from
the kitchen garden. Beds are prepared for Anemones and Ranunculuses,
and the tubers planted. Hotbeds are prepared for the tender annuals,
and the climbing kinds should be sown : of these the most beautiful are
Ipomee'a rubro-cerilea, the beautiful blue Ipome'a; Tropz‘olum pere-

348 MONTHLY CALENDAR OF WORK

grinum, the Canary-bird flower ; Rhodochiton volibile, sometimes called
Lophospérmum Rhodochiton ; Lophospérmum scandens, and erubéscens ;
Cobz'‘a scindens; and Maurandya Barclayana. Eccremocarpus or Calam-
pelis scdbra may also be raised from seed, and will flower the first year,

| but it will live two or three years, and sometimes longer. Most or all

of the others will also live more than one year, if protected from frost.

| The gravel walks require the same attention as in January, the snails and

slugs should be killed, and the eggs of insects looked for and destroyed.
The deciduous Roses may be pruned and manured; and the old plants
may be taken up and replanted, to prevent them from producing too
much wood. Composts are also now prepared in the reserve ground.
The turf is swept, and the whole garden put in order for spring.

MARCH.

DauttAs are potted, and placed in a cold frame or pit. Stocks and
China Asters are sown ona slight hotbed. Lobélia gracilis and L. bicolor,
Phléx Drumméndii, Gaillardia bicolor, Thunbérgia alata, Anagallis
Monélli and Phillipsii, the Petunias, and other half-hardy annuals,
should also be sown on a slight hotbed at the beginning of this month, if
not sown with the climbing annuals in February ; and Balsams, Cock’s-
combs, and other tender annuals, may be sown on a warm hotbed. The
gravel walks are now raked over, and fresh gravel added ; and the edges
are trimmed with a verge-cutter where the walls are bordered with grass.
The turf is mowed; and any places that may be burnt up or worn bare
are repaired by patches of fresh turf. Dahlia seeds are sown on hotbeds.
Pots of Hyacinths and Tulips, that were planted in October, are plunged
into the borders; and the scarlet Lobelias are potted, and placed in a
gentle hotbed. The tree Peony should be covered at night during this
month and the next, to protect it from spring frosts.

APRIL.

THE gravel walks are rolled, and the box edgings trimmed. The
borders are forked over and raked for sowing the seeds of annuals, which
is best done in this month, though it is sometimes deferred till May.
The evergreen Honeysuckles and Jasmines, and the evergreen Roses, are
now pruned and trained. Cuttings of Verbenas, Salvias, Petunias,
Mimuluses, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, and Heartseases, may be planted on a
slight hotbed, to make handsome plants for turning out into the open
borders in June. ‘The seeds of Hollyhocks, Brompton Stocks, Wall-
flowers, and other biennials, may be sown, and the Californian annuals

sown in autumn may be removed to beds to receive them.

MAY.

In this month a second sowing is made of the hardy annuals for
autumn flowering ; and the half-hardy annuals are transplanted into the

TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 349

open ground, sheltering them for a day. or two by turning a flower-pot
over them. The greenhouse planis standing in the open ground, which
were protected during winter, are now uncovered. ‘The Lobelias, Ver-
benas, Salvias, Petunias, and other half-hardy plants that were in pots,
are now planted out ; the hardy annuals sown in March and April are
thinned out, and transplanted ; and the stems of the Phloxes and other

| coarse-growing herbaceous plants are cnt in, taking away about a third

part ; as, when they are sufiered to have too much herbage, it weakens
the flowers. The gravel walks must now be carefully attended to, sweep-
ing and rolling them frequently, and the turf must be mowed once a-week.
Pots of Ixias and other summer-flowering bulbs are now plunged in the
borders.

JUNE.

Tux Dahlias are planted out in this month in beds, the plants being

| four or five feet apart every way. ‘The cuttings of greenhouse plants,

| which were intended for planting out, are now removed to the open

ground; and the Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, and other greenhouse plants,
are planted out. The Aphides now begin to appear on the Rose trees,
and they should be destroyed by dipping the tips of the shoots into clear
water, and shaking them gently in the water. All the insects may be
thus removed without disfiguring the tree. A brown grub (the larva of
a kind of saw-fly) now appears in the Rose buds, and it should be

_ removed by hand-picking. Many good flower-gardeners prefer cutting
| their box-edgings in this month, just’ when the plants have nearly com-
| pleted their annual shoots, as they afterwards push out a few leaves ;
_ and thus the edging does not show the mark of the knife, which it does

when cut later.

JULY.

THE withered Roses and other flowers should be cut off as soon as they
fade, as nothing disfigures a flower-garden more than dead flowers.
Some of the herbaceous plants that have done flowering should be cut
down, and the pots of summer bulbs should be removed to give place to
Pelargoniums, German and Russian Stocks, &c., which will continue in
flower till October. The annual plants from the May sowing are now
thinned out; and cuttings of greenhouse plants are put in the open
lorder under hand-glasses. Pyramids and pillars of Roses should now
be trained carefully, and tied in so as to present a mass of bloom. The
turf should be mown every week, and the broad-leaved grasses, and
other wild plants, such as Daisies, should be removed, where their
appearance is objected to.

AUGUST.

Tue flower-borders must be frequently weeded during this month,

great care being taken to prevent the weeds from ripening their seed.

The vacant places made by plants that have flowered, and have had their
stalks cut down, may be now generally supplied by greenhouse plants,

RR

350 MONTHLY CALENDAR OF WORK

such as Mesembryanthemums, &c.; or by pots of Thunbérgia alata,
Schizdnthus retiisus, hybrid Calceolarias, &c., which have been prepared
purposely for filling up blanks. A number of German Stocks and Asters,
which have been provided in pots, may now be planted among the Pinks
which have done flowering, and they will produce an excellent effect.
The Evergreens in the shrubberies may be pruned so as to prevent them
from touching each other ; and those seeds that are ripe may be gathered.
The bulbs of Crown Imperials and Lilies are planted. The gravel walks
should be frequently rolled and swept, and the turf regularly mown
every week to render the grass fine. The dead flowers should also be
constantly taken off as fast as they appear.

SEPTEMBER.

THE operations of August are continued, with the addition of begin-
ning to take up the greenhouse plants towards the close of the month.
Some are left in the ground all the winter, coverings being made for them
of various kinds. The seeds of the Californian annuals are sown on
some waste ground to stand the winter, whence they may be removed in
spring to beds properly prepared for them. The half-hardy plants which
are still in flower are lightly covered with furze branches, or worsted
netting at night, when frost is apprehended ; sticks being placed to sup-
port the netting over the plants. Some gardeners do not cut their box-
edgings till this month, when they clip them with shears; but this is a
bad practice, as the leaves which have been injured by the shears retain
the marks till the following May ; and weak plants are frequently killed,
or the lower part of their stalks rendered bare.

OCTOBER.

Butzs of Hyacinths, &c., are planted in pots. Anemones are also
planted in beds. The dead leaves of trees and shrubs are swept up and
laid in heaps to decay for vegetable mould. The Dahlias which have
been killed by the frost, have their tubers taken up and laid to dry ;
after which they are packed up in boxes, or laid in saw-dust or mait-
dust, to preserve them from the frost. The remainder of the greenhouse
plants are taken in, and those that are left out are covered carefully at
night from the frost. The gravel walks are swept and rolled occasionally,
and the gutters and drains should be all opened and cleared. The turf
should be swept, but it need not now be mowed oftener than once a fort-
night or three weeks.

NOVEMBER.

THE Dahlias, if not all killed by frost the preceding month, should
now have their stems cut down to the ground previously to taking up the
roots ; and the greenhouse plants being all removed, the ground should
be dug over, having previously received a good dressing of vegetable
mould and rotten dung. The half-hardy plants are now closely covered

TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 351

up with furze, or baskets of wicker-work ; over which mats are thrown
in severe frosts, and straw, dead leaves, or moss are put over the roots of
those plants which are only a little tender. In the greenhouse the prin-
cipal points to be attended to are to keep the plants as dry as possible, in
order to give them a season of rest, and to remove all the decayed leaves

as soon as they appear. Air should also be admitted freely, whenever |

the weather is sufficiently dry. It must be observed, that exotic plants
are as frequently killed by damp as cold ; and that no means should be
omitted of keeping the air of a greenhouse as dry as possible during
winter. The turf is mowed once during this month, if the weather
should be open; and the gravel walks seldom require any attention.

DECEMBER.

Ir the weather should be open, the flower-beds planted in summer with
Stocks, Verbenas, &c., should be dug two spades deep, and dressed with
strong stable manure. In the greenhouse and pits, it may be observed,
that thick coverings of mats save a good deal of fire-heat ; and that care
should be taken to ventilate, by the admission of dry air, wherever it
is practicable.

If the grass should continue growing, the turf may be mown once |
during this month. The dead leaves should be swept into a heap, and |
frequently turned over, watering if the weather should be dry, to hasten |

their decay; if thus treated, and sifted, they will make fine vegetable

mould for the ensuing summer. The refuse wood from trees, and dead |
shrubs, &c., should be burnt for charcoal whenever there is an oppor- |
tunity, and the charcoal kept in a dry place for use. The pots which |
are not in use should be washed and wiped dry,,and then laid one in |

another on their sides, but they should never be put one within another
when they stand erect, as the weight is almost sure to break the
lower pot.

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APPENDIX.

—

Srnoz publishing the first edition of this Work, it has been suggested
to me that it might be very greatly improved by the addition of some
plans of flower-gardens, accompanied by lists of plants of various kinds,
Acting upon this suggestion, I have added to my Work this Appendix, in
which I shall give four plans of flower-gardens, designed by Mr. Loudon
himself, and published by him in the ‘‘Gardener’s Magazine” shortly
before his death, with lists of plants for each, arranged by practical
gardeners. I shall then give a few examples of rock-work, with lists
of rock-plants, and plants for an Aquarium ; and I shall add to these
a few other lists of plants adapted for different purposes.

FLOWER-GARDENS.

Fig. 61 is the working plan of a geometrical flower-garden, which is
intended to have gravel-walks between the beds. The beds themselves
are all numbered, for the convenience of planting, and they are drawn to a
scale which is given below the plan. The following list, which has been
slightly altered from one sent to Mr. Loudon by Mr. Ayres of Blackheath,
will keep the beds full of flowers from June till October :—

1. Verbéna Hendersdniz, purple. | 14. Petunia purpirea, purple.
2. Lobélia lutea, yellow. 15. Verbéna Drummond, crimson.
3. Salvia patens, with S. chame- | 16. Heliotropium peruvianum,
dryoides, dark blue, round violet.
the sides; and Sanvitaléa | 17. Pelargonium compictum, rose.
procimbens, a dwarf annual scarlet.
with yellow flowers, in the | 18. Pelargonium, Tom Thumb, bril-
bottom, to cover the ground. liant scarlet.
4, Bouvardia triphylla, scarlet. 19. Calceolaria rugosa, yellow.
5. Tournefortia heliotropioides, | 20. Lobél¢w ramosa, dark blue.
pale blue. 21. Nierembérgia filicatilis, French
6. Verbéna teucrioides, white. white.
7. Campanula carpatica, dark blue. | 22. Verbéna Tweediedna supérba,
8. Verbéna amee‘na, pale lilac. dark crimson.
9. Same as No. 3. 23. Heliotropium Voltairinum, dark
10. Pentstémon gentianotdes coc- purple.
cineus, scarlet. 24. Crucinélla stylosa, pale rose.
11. Verbéna purpurea, purple. 25. Pelargonium Mangleszi, varie-
12. Lotus jacobe‘us liteus, yellow. gated white.
13. Diplacus glutinésus, orange yel- | 26. Pelargonium zonale, Frogmore,
low, in the vase, with Lo- scarlet.
bélza FErinus, blue, to droop | 27. Calceolaria bicolor, yellow and
over the sides; and (no- whitish.
théra macrocarpa, pale yel- | 28. Anagallis certlea grandiflora,
low, in the bed. dark blue.

AA

. Nierembérgia

. Agératum

. Pelargonium

calycina,
white.

. Verbéna Tweedieana lati-

folia, crimson.

. Petiinia erubéscens, blush.
. Verbéna odorata 7dsea, pale

pink.

. Pelargonium, variegated ivy-

leaved white.

. Agératum mexicanum, pale

blue, to be pegged down.

. Peiinia h¥brida, purple.
. Anagallis Monéllé major,

dark blue.

. Lobélia bicolor, pale blue.
. Pelargonium, Smith’s em-

peror, scarlet.
grandiflorum,
pale blue.

. Petinia purpirea, purple.
. Anagillis Phillipsd, dark

blue.

. Lobélia gracilis, pale blue.
. Pelargonium,

the Shrub-
land, scarlet.
compactum,
rose scarlet.

. Heliotrdpium corymbosum,

violet,

. Verbéna teucriozdes, white.
. Petinia hy¥brida, purple.
. Nierembérgza

intermédia,
purple.

. Sanvitalia procimbens, yel-

low.

. Salvia patens, &c., the same

as No. 3.

. Campinula Barreliér?, pale

blue.

. Verbénamultifida, palepink.
. Penstémon frutéscens, scar-

let.

. Verbéna Hendersonii, pur-

ple.

. Calceolaria integrifolia, yel-

low.

. Same as No. 3.
. Campanula garg4nica, blue.
. Verbéna teucriotdes, white

and pink.

. Bouvardiaspléndens,scarlet.
. Same as No. 138.

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FIG. 61.—FLOWER-GARDEN ON GRAVEL.

APPENDIX.

055

Should these beds be thought too small, Nos. 1 and 2, 6 and 7, &c.,
may be joined together, so as to reduce the number of beds to thirty-
eight, which may be planted according to the following lists, also fur-
nished by Mr. Ayres, according as the garden may be wished to display

its greatest beauty in spring, summer, or autumn.

It will be observed

that the first list consists chiefly of bulbs and low-growing herbaceous

plants, which flower from January to the middle of May; the list for
summer consists of hardy annuals and biennials, which should be brought
forward ready to transplant the moment the bulbs have done flowering and

are removed; and the list for autumn consists chiefly of greenhouse plants,
such as Pelargoniums, Verbenas, Lobelias, &c. Mr. Ayres has also given a

list of sixteen standard Rose-trees, which may be planted in the central beds.

I. List for Spring.
20.
. Hyacinths.

. Blue Crocuses. Pale lilac.

. Anemones. Pale blue.

Anemones. White.

. Alyssum saxatile. Yellow.

. Hyacinths. Dark purple.

. Ranunculuses, Turban. Scarlet.

. Crocuses. Yellow.

. Heartsease. Variegated.

. Tulips, mixed, common. Various
colours.

. Tulips, RoyalStandard. Various
colours.

. Hyacinths. White.

. Tulips. Yellow.

. Hyacinths. Blue.

. Tulips, Duc Van Thol. Scarlet.
and Yellow.

. Hyacinths. Red.

. Crocuses. Purple.

. Heartsease. Variegated.

€ CONT > OTR OO DD HY

_
(==)

fat fat et et
He OO DD Et

ft et et
SIO Or

18. Tulips, mixed, common. Red,
yellow, and white.
19. Ranunculuses, Turban. White.

30.

36.
37.

38

. Crocuses.

. Anemones.
. Ranunculuses, Turban. Scarlet.
. Crocuses.

. Heartsease.
. Tulips, mixed, common.

. Tulips, Gold Standard.

. Hyacinths.
. Tulips.
. Hyacinths.
33.
o4,

Anemones. Pale blue.
Dark purple.

. Al¥ssum saxatile. Yellow.
Pale lilac.

White.

Yellow.

Variegated.
Red,
yellow, and white.

Red

and yellow.

White.

Yellow.

Blue.

Hyacinths. Red.

Tulips, Duc Van Thol.
and yellow.

Tulips, mixed, common.
yellow, and white.

Heartsease. Variegated.

Crocuses. Purple.

. Ranunculuses, Turban. White.

Scarlet |
Red,

II. List for Summer.

. Clintonia pulchélla. Blue. |

. Clarkia pulchélla alba. White. |

. Godétia bifrons. Pink and
white.

. Yellow Wallflower. Yellow.

. Neméphilainsignis. Bright blue.

. Neméphila atomaria. White.

. Leptosiphon densiflérus. Pale
purple.

. Godétia Lindleydna, Rose and
white.

co SIO Oe 9 bo Ee

9. Zr¥simum Perowskianwmn.
Orange.
10. Nolana atriplicifolia. Blue.
11. Collinsia bicolor. Lilac and
white.
12. Gilia tricolor alba. White.

13.
. Neméphila insignis.
. Clarkia pulchélla.

. Collinsia grandiflora.
and blue.

Giliatricolor. Whiteand purple.
Blue.

Rose.

Purple

Pale purple.
. Nierembérgia filicafilis. Lilac.
. Verbéna Tweediedna supérba.
Scarlet.

. Hnothéra Drumméndz, Yellow.

. Verbénapulchélla. Palepurple.

356 APPENDIX.
. Schizopétalon Walkeri. White. | 29. Nemophila phacelidides. Pale
. Clarkia élegans. Lilac. blue.
. Godétia rubicinda. Purple. | 30. Collinsia bicolor. Lilac and
. Clarkéa pulchélla alba. White. white-
. Neméphilainsignis. Bright blue. | 31. Gilda tricolor alba. White.
. Yellow Wallflower. Yellow. 32. Gilta tricolor. White and
. Clintdnia pulchélla. Blue. purple.
. Godétia rubicinda. Purple. | 33. Clarkia pulchélla. Rose.

25. Neméphila atomaria. White. | 34. Nolana prostrata. Blue.

. Leptosiphon androsaceus. Lilac. | 35. Jbéris umbellatus. Purple.
27. Godétia rosea alba. Rose and | 86. Schizopétalon Walker?. White.
white. | 37. Collinsia vérna. Purple.

. Er¥simum Perowskidnwm. | 38. Godétia Romanzovii. Purple.

Orange. |
III. List for Autumn.
. Verbéna Melindres. Scarlet. | 20. Verbéna Buisti. Pale rose.
. Crucianéllastylisa. Flesh colour, | 21. Anagallis Monélli. Blue.
. Verbéna fteucridides carnea. | 22. Pelargonium, variegated ivy-
Flesh colour. leaved. Variegated.
. Pelargonium variegitum. Va-| 23. Verbéna ignea. Scarlet.
riegated. 24. Verbéna feucriéides carnea.
. Lobélia ramésa. Blue. Pale flesh colour.
. Lobélia bicolor. Pale blue. 25. Campanula carpatica. Blue.
. Verbéna Hendersdnz?. Purple. | 26. Verbéna Bishépsi. Pale purple.
. Pelargonium, Frogmore. Scarlet. | 27. Pelargonium, Cooper’s. Scarlet.
. Calceolaria rugosa. Yellow. 28. Calceolaria integrifolia. Yellow.
. Lobéléa axillaris. Pale blue. | 29. Anagiallis Phillips. Blue.
. Petunia phenicea. Purple. 30. Petunia, Lady Peel. Purple.
. Verbéna Barnési. Rose. 31. Verbéna Marryatte. Rose.
13. Verbéna, the Queen. White. | 32. Verbéna feucriéides. White.
. Petunia h¥brida. Purple. 33. Senécio élegans pléno. Purple.
5. Heliotropium corymbdsum., | 34. Heliotropium peruvidnum. Pale

purple.

. @nothéra macrocirpa. Yellow.
. Verbéna Tweediedna. Scarlet.
37.
38.

Nierembérgia intermédia.Purple.
Tournefortia heliotropidides.
Pale Purple.

IV. List of Standard Roses.

| JVoisettes.

Aimée Vibert.

Bouquet tout fait.
Elizabeth.

Fellemberg.

Jaune Desprez.
Lamarque.

Lamarque a Cceur rose.
La Biche.

Luxembourg.

Ne plus ultra.

Victorieuse.
Bourbons.

Madame Desprez.

Gloire de Rosaméne.
Prince Albert.
Emile Courtier.
Ida.

The plan for a flower-
garden, fig. 62, occupiesthe
same space as the design,
fig. 61; and both may be
surrounded by a low wire
fence, only 20 inches high,
for the sake of excluding
rabbits. The beds are sup-
posed to be on turf, and
there isa basin with a foun-
tain in the centre compart-
ment (4 30) anda vase ona
pedestalinthe centre of the
twoothers (29). The follow-
inglistsshow various modes
of planting this garden :—

Lists of Plants for the
Flower Garden, fig. 62,
by Mr. Ayres.

I. List for Spring.

ble. Dark-blue.
. A’rabis albida. White.

Yellow.

ble. Dark-red.
. Hepatica triloba, dou-
ble White.
. Crocuses, Cloth of Gold.
Yellow and Brown.
A’rabis rosea. Red.
. Omphalédes _ vérna.
Blue.
. Anemone nemordsa.
White.
10. Primula vulgaris,
double. Lilac.
11. Primula Auricula, bor-
der varieties. Va-
rious colours.
12. Anemones, double.
Various colours.
13. Ranunculuses. Va-
rious colours.
14. Hyacinths. Various
colours.
15. Hyacinths. Various
colours.

a OO ~~ Whe re

Lia) is) ~—

. Hepatica triloba, dou- *

. Crocuses,yellow Dutch. ;

. Hepatica triloba, dou-

(oe
FIG. 62.—FLOWER-G

ARDEN ON GRASS.

,
—— om om,

~
= lee Wee

358

APPENDIX.

. Omphalddes vérna.

Blue.

. Ranunculuses, double. Various | 22. Phlox subulata. Red.
colours. 23. A’rabis alpina. White.

. Anemones, double. Various | 24. Primula vulgaris, double.
colours. White.

. Primula Auricula, border varie- | 25. Hepatica triloba, double. Dark
ties. Various colours. red.

. Pulmonaria virginica. Blue | 26. Crocuses, yellow Dutch. Yellow.
and purple. 27. Primula vulgaris, double. Red.

. Dodecatheon Meddia. Lilac. | 28. Hepatica triloba, double. Dark-

blue.

II. List of Annuals for Summer.

1. Neméphila atomaria. White. | 15. Zupinusnanus. Purpleandblue.
2. Collinsta grandiflora. Purple. | 16. Ibéris coronaria. White.
8. Gilia tricolor. White. 17. Tbéris umbellata. Purple.
4, Neméphila insignis. Blue. 18. Clinténia pulchélla. Blue.
5. Nolana atriplicifolia. Blue. 19. Clarkia élegans. Lilac.
6. Leptosiphon androsaceus. Lilac | 20. Godétia rosea Alba. Rose and
and white. white.
7. Nolana prostrata. Violet. 21. Zr¥ysimum Perowskidnwm.
8. Clinténza pulchélla. Blue. Orange.
9. Collinsta bicolor. Lilac and | 22. Leptosiphondensiflorus. Purple.
White. | 23. Nolana prostrata. Violet.
10. Clarkia pulchélla. Rose. 24. Neméphila phacelidides. Lilac.
11. Eschschéltzia crécea. Orange. | 25. Nemophila insignis. Blue.
12. Godétia bifrons. Purple. 26. Gilda tricolor alba. White.
13. Clarkia pulchélla alba. White. | 27. Collinsta vérna. Purple.
14. Eutoca viscida. Blue. | 28. Neméphila atomaria. White.

List of half-hardy Plants for Autumn.

. Pelargonium, Ingram’s. Scarlet. | 28

. Verbéna ignea. Dark Scarlet. | 16. Senécio élegans pléno. Purpie.
. Pelargonium, ivy-leaved. Va- | 17. Calceolaria integrifélia. Yellow.
riegated. 18. Lotus jacobee'us. Black.

- Verbena Hendersonii. Purple. | 19. Nierembérgia filicatlis. Lilac.
Lobélia ramésa. Blue. 20. Verbéna teucridzdes. White.
. @nothéra macrocarpa. Yellow. | 21. Verbéna Melindres |atifolia.

. Verbéna purpurea. Purple. Scarlet.

. Pelargonium Manglésii. Va-| 22. Petiénia nyctaginifidra. White.
rieties. 23. Verbéna Elfordénsis. Purple.

. Verbéna Chandlérii. Scarlet. | 24. @nothéra Drumméndd. Yel-

. Verbéna, the Queen. White. low.

. Verbéna Drummond. Lilac. | 25. Anagillis certlea grandiflora.

. Lotus jacobe‘us. Blackish. Blue.

. Calceolaria rugésa. Yellow. 26. Nierembérgia intermédia. Pale

. Petinia h¥brida. Purple. yellow.

. Pelargonium, Frogmore, Scar- | 27. Pelargonium, variegated.
let. White.

. Verbéna Melindves. Scarlet.

|
|
|
|
|
|

j
|
}
|
!
|
}
|
{
}

APPENDIX. 359

List of Plants for planting the Flower-Garden, fig. 62. By Mr. Pringle.

,
2.
3.
4,
5.
6.
re
8.
9.
10.
IE
Ee
13.

| 34
15.

Snowdrops as an edging ; the| 16. Collinsza grandiflora. Dahlias.
body of the bed of Moss|17. Gila tricolor. Dahlias.
Roses, dwarfs. 18. Primula cortusdides. Salvia pa-

Hepatica. Petunias, var. tens.

Hepatica. Heliotrdpium peru-| 19. Scilla, or Hyacinths. Select
vianum. herbaceous plants.

Double Primrose. Provence | 20. Scilla, or other bulbs. Select
Roses, dwarf. herbaceous plants.

Double Primrose. Scotch Roses. | 21. Snowdrops. Hybrid China Roses,

Crocuses. Calceolaria, var. dwarf.

Crocuses. Verbéna, var. 22. Sanguinaria canadénsis. Gera-

Snowdrops. Perpetual Roses, nium, var.
dwarf. 23. Adonis vernalis. Scarlet Gera-

Narcissus. Select herbaceous niums.
plants. 24, Auricula, var. China Roses dwarf.

Narcissus, or other Bulbs. Se- | 25. Polyanthus, var. Tea-scented
lect herbaceous plants. Roses, dwarf.

gens. fldre-pléno.
Neméphila insignis. Dahlias. | 27. Erythronium DénsCanis. Zotus
Lasthénia californica. Dabhlias. | jacobze‘us.
Dwarf Larkspur. Fuchsias. | 28. Snowdrops. Noisette Roses,

Cladanthus arabicus. Fuchsias. | dwarf.

Gentidna acatlis. Salvia fal- | 26. Scilla bifolia. Senécio élegans

According to this plan, the centres of the two extreme figures may
_ contain fancy baskets or vases for greenhouse plants in summer ; and the
_ centre @ may be a basin and fountain, if there is water at command ; if
not, Azaleas and other American plants, mixed with select standard Roses.
If the beds Nos. 2, 3, 6, 7, 22, 23, 25, and 27, were planted with Ame-
rican plants, the garden might then be kept at much less annual expense
of plants and labour.

List of Plants for planting the Flower-Garden, fig. 62. By Mr. James

feet

oO wT OD OK POD

Call, Foreman in Duncombe Park Gardens.

. Lobélia failgens, and Zupinus| 9. Herbaceous plants,
nanus. 10. Herbaceous plants.
. Mimulus of dwarf varieties. /11. Scarlet Geraniums, and Verbéna
Heartsease of varieties. | Tweediedna.

. Verbéna Drumméndii, and V. | 12 Crassula coccinea, and Salpi-

Melindres. glossis picta.

. Petunias of varieties, and Ana- 13. Salvia patens, and German

gallis Monéllz. Stocks.

. Eschschéltzia califérnica, and | 14. Fuchsias of varieties, and An-

Anagillis grandiflora. tirrhinum caryophylloides.

. Alonséa urticifolia and Clarkia | 15. Dahlias of varieties, and Ger-

pulchélla. man Asters.

. Calceolarias of varieties, and 16. Salvia coccinea, and Dwarf

Collinsta bicolor. Rocket Larkspur.

i

APPENDIX.

17. Hydrangeas, &
A’ster Amél-
log:

18. Pentstémon
gentianiides,
P. fruticdsa
and Neméphila
insignis.

19. Herbaceous
plants.

20. Herbaceous
plants.

21. Heliotropium
peruvianum
and Collémia
coccinea.

22. G@nothéra
Drumméndii,
and Neméphila
atomaria.

25. Antirrhinum
caryophylléi-
des, & Eutoca
viscida.

24, VerbénaTweed-
iedna élegans,
and V. Sabina.

25. Potentillas of
varieties, and
Schizanthus
pinnatus.

26. Heartsease of
varieties.

27. Verbénaincisa,
and V. Melin-
dres.

28. Lobélia propin-
qua, & Convél-
vulus minor.

fig. 63 is a de-
sign for a small

American garden

which may be plant-

ed with Azaleas at

aandg, Kalmias b

and f, and Rhodo-

dendrons c¢ and e.

The central bed, d,

being planted with

Magnolias.

/

FIG. 63.—AMERICAN GARDEN

APPENDIX. 361

Fig. 64 is a design for a garden, to contain a select collection of Dahlias
and Hollyhocks.

The beds at @ a, embrace small basins of water; and, in order to
contrast with the others, may be planted with a collection of Hollyhocks.
The beds marked
b 6 may be plant-
ed with evergreen
shrubs, in order to
prevent the whole
gardenfrom being
seen at once when
entering.—There
may also bea few
plants of Juni-
pers,or other dark
evergreens, sprin-
kled down the
middle of the gar-
den from 6 to 8, |
in order to form a
background tothe
Dahlias and Hol-
lyhocks : for this
garden, like jig.
63,is one of those, |
the beauties of |
which are to be |
seen in succes- |
sion, and not ai a |

|

singleglance, asin ;
the design jig. 62.

The Dahlia beds |
are so disposed as

that everyvariety \
may be seen from

the walk. The
width of the beds

is 3 feet, which \.
will admit of two
rows, the plants
of one row alter-
nating with those
in the other. The
whole of the space
planted with Dah-
lias should be dug out to the depth of 2 feet, and a layer of brickbats, &c.,
placed at the bottom -of the bed, which should then be filled with rich

FIG. 64.—DAHLIA AND HOLLYHOCK GARDEN.

light soil. The Hollyhocks should also have a bed dug out for them, and -

filled with rich soil. Both plants grow better for having a layer of manure
on the surface of the soil, while they are forming their flower-buds.

eee eee

362 APPENDIX.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FLOWER-GARDENS.

The foregoing plans will give a general idea of the usual method of
planting flower-gardens ; and, of course, the designs and the plants may
be varied at pleasure. The principal points to be attended to, in order
to make the beds of a flower-garden look well, are the size of the plants
and their colours.

With regard to the size, no plant should be much higher than the
others, and those that would grow taller should be pegged down. The usual
rule is, that no plant should exceed six inches in height in a bed eighteen
inches wide; and that the plants may increase about six inches in height
for every foot the beds increase in width. The plants should not be too
near, or they will be drawn up in height instead of spreading laterally ;
and when this is the case, they never flower well, but become bare of both
leaves and flowers towards the root. If plants should be in this state, the
only remedy is taking up and replanting wider apart ; but it is generally
best to use new plants, as the old ones which have been drawn up will
generally have weakened themselves too much ever to do well.

The management of the colowrs of plants in flower-beds is a point of
some difficulty ; but it is also reducible to rules. Every colour is said to
contain within itself the germ of another colour, which, if mixed with it,

| would make black, or dingy white ; and these two {colours harmonise

better together than either would do with any other colour. It is well
known that every ray of light may be divided into seven colours, which
may be seen in a rainbow or in a prism; and of these colours three are
primitive or simple, and four compound. Now, it is found that every
simple colour harmonises best with a compound colour ; and thus, that
the secondary colour of red, which is a simple colour, is green, which is
a compound colour; that of yellow, is violet or purple; and that of
blue, orange. It is found, also, that no primitive colour harmonises well
with a compound colour composed from it. Thus, red does not look well
with purple, which is composed of red and blue ; but it looks very well
with green, which is composed of blue and yellow. It is true that in
plants green is so common, as to come in contact with every other colour;
but we shall also find that there are so many shades of green, as to render
the hue of the leaves in harmony with every varied tint that may be found
in the flowers. Green is also the most agreeable of all colours to the eye.
It may be further observed, with regard to colours, that certain colours,
such as red, yellow, and orange, are what are called warm; and that
others, such as blue, lilac, and sea-green, are what are called cold : also,

_ that where the walks in a flower-garden are of gravel, coldcolours ought

to predominate in the flowers in the beds; and where the walks are of
grass, warm colours ought to predominate among the flowers.

The usual way to try the effect of a new mode of forming and plant-
ing a regular flower-garden is, to make a plan of the intended design on
paper; and then, after colouring the walks green or reddish, according
as it may be wished to have them of grass or gravel, to tint the beds
according to the colours of the flowers to be planted on them, or, what is
better, to put coloured wafers on the beds, as these will admit of being
removed and shifted about at pleasure, till a proper effect has been pro-

a

APPENDIX. 363

duced. As soon as the colours for the different beds have been chosen,
plants may be selected of the colours required, and brought forward in a
reserve garden, till the beds are ready to receive them.

When a flower-garden is to be laid out, the ground is first dug over,
raked, and made perfectly smooth. The plan traced on the paper is then
transferred to the ground, generally in the following manner: The paper
containing the plan is covered with regular squares, like the paper con-
taining plans of the Berlin worsted work : the ground to be laid out is
covered with similar squares, formed by sticking wooden pegs in the
ground at regular distances, and fastening strings from peg to peg, till
the whole ground is covered with a kind of lattice-work of string. Each
string is then chalked and made to thrill by pulling it up about half-way
between the pegs with a sudden jerk, and letting it go again, this transfers
the chalk from the string to the ground, which thus becomes marked all
over with white lines, forming regular squares. The squares on the
ground should be of the same number as those on the paper, but larger ;
the usual proportion is, every square inch on the paper is represented by
a square foot on the ground. The pattern is then traced with a sharp-
pointed stick, the proportion in each square being copied. Sometimes,
when the pattern is simple, it is traced on the ground simply by chalked
string stretched from peg to peg—the pegs being stuck into the ground at
regular distances, which have been previously measured, having been en-
larged from the plan traced on paper according to a regular scale, in the
same way as the squares were directed to be enlarged, according to the
previous plan. If a circle is to be traced, it is done by getting a piece of
string the length of the diameter of the circle, witha piece of stick tied to
each end. One stickis then driven into the ground in the centre of the

| circle, and a line is traced with the stick at the other extremity of the

line, which is drawn out quite tight. An oval is made by tracing two
circles, the outer line of one of which just touches the centre of each

| other ; short lines are afterwards made at the top and bottom, and the

| central lines are obliterated. A square only requires a peg at each
| corner, with a chalked string drawn from peg to peg; and an oblong, or

long square, is made by joining two common squares and taking off the
corners if required.
When the beds are traced out, the walks must be laid with either turf

or gravel, and very great care must be taken to keep them exactly |
within bounds; very great care must also be taken to keep the beds of |

precisely the proper form, as the least disproportion is seen in a moment

| in aregular figure, and has a very badeffect. The plants should also be
| constantly attended to, so as to let them cover the beds entirely, and not
| project in the least beyond the outline; for, however beautiful wildness

and irregularity may be in some situations, in a regular flower-garden
they can only give the idea of carelessness and neglect.

ROCK-WORK.

It has been already stated in this work, that there are two kinds of
rock-work, viz., that which is intended to imitate natural scenery (see

FIG. 66.—ARCH OF ROCK-WORK.

APPENDIX. 365

jig. 65), and that which is intended to serve merely as a receptacle for
plants (see jig. 66) ; sometimes with the last kind of rock-work is com-
bined an aquarium (see jig 67). The first of these does not require any
particular care in planting, except that the rocks should not be over-
shadowed by tall trees ; but the second and third kinds need skilful
planting, as their beauty depends principally on the plants they contain.
The principal point to be attended to in selecting plants for rock-work is
to choose those that do not grow too fast, and yet flower profusely ; as
the great difficuity is to keep each plant within its proper bounds, and
yet to have the whole a mass of flowers.

List of Plants fox Rock- Work.

The following plants are very suitable for rock-work, to flower from
February to May :—White. The wood Anemone; Anemdne montana;
the white Hepatica; A’rabis alpina, and A. albida; the white and
Scotch Crocuses (Crécus biflérus) ; Snowdrops; the white double Prim-
rose; and Sanguinaria canadénsis. Blue. Anemone apennina; Crécus
vérnus ; the blue Hepatica ; [‘ris pumila ; Grape Hyacinth ; Scilla pre'eox,
S. vérna, and S. sibirica; and Gentiana acailis. Yellow. The Winter

FIG, 67.—ROCK-WORK ROUND A POND.

Aconite; Alyssum saxdtile ; Crécus sulphireus and C. Iiteus, and the
Cloth of Gold Crocus (C. susidnus) ; Narcissus minor, and N. Bulbo-
cddium ; Draba aiziéides; the common Primrose; and the Cowslip.
Purple. Aubriétia deltdidea; Erinus alpinus; the dog’s tooth Violet ;
the common Violet; the double lilac Primrose; Chinese Primrose;

366 APPENDIX.

| Saxffraga oppositifdlia ; Soldanella alpina ; Verbéna Lambérti, and V.

Arraniana, &ce. Red. Siléne rubélla; Lychnis alpina; Pink Hepatica;

| double red Primrose; and Cinerdria cruénta, though this last must be

kept in the house during winter, and only planted out after its flower-

buds have formed. Various kinds of Heaths, and some of the Cape
_ bulbs may be brought forward under glass, and planted out when about

to flower in a similar manner. For the summer months the following

| flowers may be used: White. Ibéris Tenoreana ; Alyssum calycinum ;

Ar’abis bellidifolia, and A. petre'a; Acte'a racemdsa; Achilléa Cla-
vénne; White dwarf Campanula; Valeriana montana; Cardamine
asarifolia; and Stévia Eupatoria. Blue. Campanula rotundifolia, C.
garganica, and C. pflla, Viola cucullata; A’ster alpinus; Lupinus
nanus; Periwinkle ; Lobélia gracilis, L. certlea, and L. unidentata ;
and the Calathian Violet. Yellow. Moneywort ; Lasthénia californica ;
Bartoénia atirea; yellow Musk plant (Mimulus moschatus); Hoop
Petticoat Narcissus; and A’llium Mély. Purple. Wild Geraniums
of various kinds; several kinds of Phléx; dwarf Asters; and dwarf
Stocks. Red. Lychnis le’ta; Pink-flowered Cistuses, and Helianthe-
mums; Phl6x Drumméndii; and several dwarf Pinks. This list is very
imperfect, but it will serve to give an idea of the kind of flowers which
are suitable. Heartseases may be added at pleasure, and many other

| flowers will occur to every one fond of a garden. When an aquarium
_ is added to the rock-work, as in jig. 67, it will be necessary to place a

few aquatic plants in the water, anda few marsh plants round the borders
of the pond, for which purpose I have subjoined the following list of
suitable plants, some of which are quite hardy, and may remain in the
water all the year, and others will require protection during winter.

List of Aquatic and Marsh Plants.

Two of the handsomest a uatics I know are Aponogéton angustifolium,
and A. distachyon ; they have both white flowers tinged with pink, and
black anthers, which give them a very lively appearance. A. distachyon
is much the larger plant of the two. They are both tolerably hardy, but
require protection during winter. Pontedéria cordata has arrow-shaped
erect leaves, and an upright spike of dark purple flowers. It is a native
of North America, and is quite hardy in England. Bdtomus wmbellatus,
the flowering rush, with its head of pink flowers, and A’corus Calamus,
the sweet-scented water-reed, are tall showy plants, as is Cyperus longus,
which last bears some resemblance to the Papyrus of the Nile. For smaller
plants, may be mentioned the little Frog-bit, Hydrécharis mérsus-rane,
with its pure white flowers; Hottinia palistris, the water violet, with
its pretty pink flowers; Calla palistris, the water dragon; Caltha
palustris, the marsh marigold ; Nymphe’a alba, the common water-lily ;
Stratiotes alotdes, the fresh-water soldier; Sagittdria sagittifolia, the
Chinese arrow-head, with its white and green flowers ; Pinguicula lusi-
tanica ; Sdmolus Valerdndi; Villarsia nympheoides, the yellow fringed
buck-bean ; Cémarum palastre; and Naphar ddvena. The beautiful
little Polggonum amphibium, the rose-coloured water-pepper, with its
dark pink flowers, of which there is so much in the large piece of water

nn

APPENDIX. 367

opposite the palace in Kensington Gardens, is quite hardy ; as is Meny-
dnthes trifoliata, the common buck-bean. These are all common; but
Thalia dealbata, a curious black and white plant, and Trapa ndtans,
the water caltrops, also curious, are more rare.

For the plants not aquatics, but which will thrive when they have
their pots plunged in water, are the white A‘rum (Cdlla ethiépica), the
tall scarlet Lobelias, and all the kinds of Mimulus. As a companion to
the little Musk plant, I may recommend the Myosdtis palistris, the true
Forget-me-not, and Houstinia cerdlea, a pretty little plant, with very
pale, star-like flowers.

The following bulbs will also grow and flower splendidly with their pots
half plunged in water :—Crinum capénse, the white striped, and purple
Cape Crinums ; Amargllis speciosa, sometimes called Hippedstrum pur-
pureum, and sometimes Vallota purpurea, with dark crimson, lily-like
flowers ; Pancratiwm mexicanum ; and Calostémma purpirea, C. litea,
and ©. dlba. All these are half-hardy bulbs, and require protection
during winter.

SUNDRIES.

Under this head I propose to give a few lists of plants suitable for par-
ticular purposes, which I think it may be useful for amateur gardeners to
know, in order to be able to select what may be required for any par-
ticular purpose. Thus I have given lists of roses to aid the amateur to
select from the long catalogues proffered by nurserymen. There are many
plants which may be planted in pots, and brought forward in a hot-
house, or by plunging in a hot-bed, so as to flower much earlier than in
their natural season; while other plants may be killed by similar treat-
ment. Itis therefore useful to know what plants will bear to be unnatu-
rally stimulated with heat ; and I have given a list of those usually
forced by the London nurserymen, so as to flower in February, March,
and April. Asmany kinds of Cape Heaths are very ornamental in their
flowers in winter, I have subjoined a list of those that flower about
Christmas; and I have added other lists of different kinds which have
been suggested to me, in the hope of rendering this little book as useful
as possible,

Lists of Roses.

For general cultwre : Duchess of Sutherland, Madame Laffay, William
Jesse.—Brilliantly-coloured Roses :\Géant des batailles, Feu brillant,
Rouge de Luxembourg, Beauty of Billiard.—Cup-shaped or globular :
Comte de Montalivet, Coup d’ Hébé, Baronne Prevost, General Alleard. —
Striped Roses : Rosa mundi, Perle des Panaches, Village Maid.—Spotted
or marbled Roses: Madame Campan, Renoncule punctué, Superb mar-
bled. Yellow Roses : Harrisoni, Persian Yellow, Elise Sauvage, Safrano.
Buff Roses. Jaune Desprez, Jaune abricotée, Fortune’s yellow, Yellow
Banksian.—Large flowered Roses : Madame St. Joseph, Niphetos, 'Devo-
niensis, La Reine.—Miniature Roses: Dwarf Burgundy, De Maux, Fairy,
Nemesis.

| 368 APPENDIX.

Roses for training to pyramids or pillars.

Brennus, or Brutus, as it is sometimes called, a profuse flowerer, the

| roses being very large, of a most brilliant carmine, very finely cupped,

and very double ; Queen of the Belgians, a pure white, finely cupped ;
Drummond’s thornless, a Boursault rose, with a profusion of small pink,
very double flowers ; Rosa Grevillez, or the Seven Sisters, with large
clusters of flowers, varying in colour, in the same cluster, from crimson
and almost purple to pale blush and almost white; Rdsa multifiora,
nearly allied to the last ; and the Triomphe de Bollwyller, with a beau-
tiful cream-coloured, or rather pale buff flower, cupped, and very large,
and double, with large glossy evergreen leaves. To these may be added
Jaune Desprez, a very curious rose, from its singular colour, which is a
sort of pink buff. This rose is extremely fragrant and very hardy ; and,
from being a very free grower, it is well suited for a pillar rose. All the
Noisette and Boursault roses, particularly Rosa raga, are also well
adapted for this purpose; as are the Banksian Roses, though they, like
Rosa multiflora, are rather tender.

Trailing Roses.

The double Yellow Austrian and Scotch roses, and Risa Harrisénii,

| sometimes called Hogg’s double yellow ; River’s George the Fourth, a

splendid crimson rose, with shining, dark, reddish-green foliage, and of
very luxuriant growth ; the Village Maid, a striped rose ; Rose du Roi, or
Lee’s crimson perpetual, a most valuable rose, which will flower in the
open ground irom May to November ; the common Rose a-quatre-saisons ;

Madame Desprez, an Ile de Bourbon rose, which blooms in large clusters

like a Noisette ; Bengale triomphante ; Risa indica (the common China) ;
Rosa semperflirens (the monthly China) ; Risa odorata (the common tea-
scented) ; and Rdsa Smithi (the Yellow Noisette), though this rose does
not flower well in moist seasons. Many more might easily be added ;

but these will be enough for a moderate-sized garden, and the proprietors _

of large gardens do not want a selection.

Of all these Roses, Rosa riga is perhaps the most beautiful and the
most useful. All the trailing roses require a very rich soil, and their
shoots should never be shortened in pruning.

Ornamental Flowering Shrubs.

Weiglea rosa, all the Mahonias, or Ash Berberries, Ceanéthus azuréus,
and other kinds, Viburnum, various kinds, Spirz’a aérifolia, 8. bélla, the
Judas tree, Rose Acacia, and several kinds of Escallonia, &e.

Shrubs flowering in Winter.

Gaurrya elliptica, Chimondnthus fragrans, Laurestinus.

Perennial Plants flowering in Winter.

Tussilago fragrans, Christmas rose, Chrysanthemums, &c.

ssp sss sss

APPENDIX. 369 |

List of Plants suitable for early Forcing.

The common Lilae, the Jasmine, Detttzia scabra, Lily of the Valley,
Roses, Abutilon striatum, Cinerarias, Kalmias, Azaleas, Chinese Prim-
| roses, Acicia armata, Heliotrope, Hydrangea, Lemon- scented Verbéna,
Hyacinths, Van Thol Tulips, Camellias, Sweet Peas, and Mignonette.
Pelargoniums, and dwarf Dablias, are also generally brought forward in
heat for flowering earlier than the ordinary time.

List of Winter-flowering Heaths which blossom about Christmas.

Erica hyemalis, E. Archeriana, E, ollula, E. vestita, and E. imbricata,
all with pink or red flowers; E. grandinésa, E. Bowieana, E. Lamberti-
ana, and E. caffra, the flowers of which are white, and those of the last
species fragrant ; EB. Sebana litea, with yellow shining flowers ; and E.
Mass6ni, with orange and green flowers.

Plants for Gluss Cases.

Ferns of various kinds, viz. the dwarf species of Asplénium, Aspidium, |
Adiantum (Maiden hair), Polypédium, Piéris (the Brake), and Triché- |
manes ; Lycopédium (the Club Moss), various species ; O’xalis acetosélla |
(the Wood Sorrel), Aneméne nemordsa (the Wood Anemone), Verénica
alpina, the Bird’s-nest Nedttia, or Ladies’ traces, Dentaria bulbifera,
Paris quadrifolia, Crocuses, Hyacinths, and various kinds of bulbs,

Plants suitable for pegging down in beds.

Nearly all the Verbenas; the dwarf Dahlias ; the evergreen and all the
trailing Roses; most of the Petunias ; the Periwinkles ; ; some of the
Lobelias ; Cistus purpureus, and other kinds of Cistus and Helianthe-
mum ; Cruciané ila stylosa ; Rhododéndron hirsttum ; Fachsia globdésa ;
several kinds of Vaccinium ; Gaulthéria Shallon ; Clématis montana,
and some other kinds of Clématis ; ; and generally “all kinds of trailing
plants.

Plants for baskets, to hang down.

Maurandya Barclayana, Lophospérmum scandens and L. erubéscens,
Eccremocarpus scaber, Tropz‘olum peregrinum (the Canary-bird flower),
Cobee'a acandens ; Convélvulus of various kinds, Moneywort, Nolana
atriplicifolia and prostrata, Campanula gargdnica and other kinds,
Lobélia erinoides, L. sellidifdlia, L. gracilis, and other kinds; Marian-
thus cerileo-punctatus; Thunbérgia alata, T. a. alba, and T. auran-
tiaca ; Verbéna Melindres, and other kinds ; Petunia nyctaginifléra, and
some other kinds ; Ibéris sempervirens, and I. Tenoreana; and various
kinds of roses.

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|
|

370 APPENDIX.

Moves oF PRoreEctTinG.

As many persons having small gardens are at a loss for a place in which

to keep their half-hardy plants during winter, I have thought it may be
, useful to give a
short descrip-
tion of the most
simple contri-
' vance I know,
| for effecting the
| desired pur-
| pose. It is to
| have a frame
| made of wood
(which can be
put together by
any common
carpenter), Yf
erected against
the wall of a a da
| stable, or in any convenient place, where it will be out of sight.—When
| the frame is erected, a wall of manure should be. formed, as shown in
fig. 68; or if manure cannot be
reatily obtained, turf, or stones,
or bricks lined with straw or hay
will do. Within this wall the
pots may be placed as closely as
possible ; and where manure can
be obtained easily, a little may
be laid on the earth in each pot.
Some Russian matting, old carpet,
tarpaulin, or baize, may then be
nailed over the top and sides of
the frame,.and a piece left loose
to hang down in front like a cur-
tain. When the weather is very
severe, an additional covering of
matting, or old blankets may be
«thrown over the frame; but the
curtain in front should be thrown
up to admit the air, whenever the
weather is sufficiently mild ; and
the mat in front should be kept
fastened up, and an _ oil-cloth
thrown over the frame in con-
tinued rains, lest the plants should
, damp off. :

Where there are tree Peonies
or other plants in the open ground,
which require a slight protection
EERE Dy eae

’ .

xy b i, ae

APPENDIX. 371

from spring frosts, nothing can be better than wicker-work coverings,
like that shown atc in fig. 69. The evergreen Magnolias, the Austra-
lian Acacias, and similar half-hardy trees, and the more delicate kinds
of pines and firs, may be protected in the same manner; while the
smaller half-hardy shrubs, such as the Cistuses and Helianthemums, may
be protected by the smaller coverings shown at d and e; and plants
against a conservative wall, such as China-roses for early flowering, may
be protected by the coverings shown at a and 6. These coverings may
be made of plaited rushes, sewed together ; and making them will afford
excellent employment for poor women and children in autumn.

CoNncLUSION.

The above observations may be rather considered as hints to amateur
florists, than as directions for the management of a flower-garden ; but
they will be useful to those who take an interest in the subject; and to
those who do not, no directions, however ample they may be, will be of
any avail. No one, in fact, can ever make a good gardener, who has not
a sincere love for plants; and I cannot conclude better than by adding,
in the words of Ray, who wrote on flower-gardens about two hundred
years ago :—

‘¢The love of such a master will keep each tender plant alive his care
and skill have collected ; for never was any art or excellence liked or
loved by the ignorant; it is knowledge that begets affection, and affec-
tion increaseth knowledge. Love was the inventor, and is still the main-
tainer of every noble science. It is chiefly that which hath made my
flowers and trees to flourish, though planted in a barren desert, and hath
brought me to the knowledge I now have in plants and planting; for,
indeed, it is impossible for any man to have any considerable collection
of noble plants to prosper unless he love them ; for neither the goodness
of the soil, nor the advantage of the situation, will do it without the
master’s affection : it is that which animates and renders them strong
and vigorous; without which they will languish and decay through
neglect, and soon cease to do him service.”

THE END.

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