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Dab AK E NGAMI:
OR,
EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES
DURING
FOUR YEARS’ WANDERINGS IN THE WILDS
OF
SOUTHWESTERN AFRICA,
BY
CHARLES JOHN ANDERSSON.
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS,
REPRESENTING SPORTING ADVENTURES, SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY,
DEVICES FOE DESTROYING WILD ANIMALS, &c.
ee 2a
rm rm
| ;
NEW ¥ ORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, ‘PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE
1856.
A Ree ©, y 7
N
fo es a
ae PREFACE
THE following Narrative of Explorations and Dis-
coveries during four years in the wilds of the south-
western parts of Africa contains the account of two ex-
peditions in that continent between the years 1850 and
1854. In the first of these journeys, the countries of
the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Europe)
and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognita) were
explored; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake
Ngami was reached by a route. that had always been
deemed impracticable. It is more than probable that
this route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the
one by which commerce and civilization may eventual-
ly find their way to the Lake regions.
The first journey was performed in company with
Mr. Francis Galton, to whom we are indebted for a
work on ‘Tropical South Africa ;” on the second the
Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own
very scanty resources. ye
It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first
journey, that, from the ground having been preoccu-
pied, it would be best for him to commence where his
friend left off. 'There was some reason for this; but,
on mature consideration, he deemed it desirable to start
from the beginning, otherwise he could not have given
iV PREFACE.
-
a connected and detailed account of the regions he vis-
ited. Moreover, from the Author having remained two
years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only
been enabled to ascertain the truth respecting much
that at first appeared obscure and doubtful, but has had
many opportunities of enlarging the stock of informa-
tion acquired by himself and friend when together.
Besides, they were often separated for long periods,
during which many incidents and adventures occurred
to the Author that are scarcely alluded to in *‘ Tropical
South Africa.” And, lastly, the impressions received
by different individuals, even under similar circum-
stances, are generally found to vary greatly, which, in
itself, would be a sufficient reason for the course the
Author has decided on pursuing.
As will be seen, the present writer has not only de-
scribed the general appearance of the regions he visited,
but has given the best information he was able to col-
lect of the geological features of the country, and of its
probable mineral wealth ; and, slight though it may be,
he had the gratification of finding that the hints he
threw out at the Cape and elsewhere were acted upon,
that mining companies were formed, and that mining
operations are now carried on to some extent in regions
heretofore considered as utterly worthless.
The Author has also spoken at some length of the
religion, and manners, and customs of such of the na-
tive tribes (previously all but unknown to Europeans)
visited by him during his several journeys. He also
noted many of their superstitions, for too much atten-
tion, as has been truly observed, can not be paid to the
mythological traditions of savages. Considerable dis-
PREFACE. Vv
cretion is, of course, needful in this matter, as, if every
_ portion were to be literally received, we might be led
into grievous errors; still, by attending to what many
might call absurd superstitions, we not only attain to a
knowledge of the mental tendencies of the natives, but
are made acquainted with interesting facts touching the
geographical distribution of men and inferior animals.
Since the different members constituting the brute
creation are so intimately connected with the economy
of man, and since many of the beasts and birds indige-
nous to those parts of Africa visited by the Author are
still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable
to enter largely into their habits, &c., the rather as nat-
ural history has from childhood been his favorite pur-
suit, and is a subject on which he therefore feels con-
versant ; and though part of what he has stated regard-
ing the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the koodoo, the
ostrich, and others of the almost incalculable varieties
of animals found in the African wilderness may be
known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that the gen-
eral reader will find matter he has not previously met
with.
The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found
in this work (faithfully depicting the scenes described)
are by Mr. Wolf—< the Landseer of animals and vege-
tation,” to quote the words of the Earl of Ellesmere in
a note which his lordship did me the honor to write to
me.
The Author has endeavored in the following pages
faithfully, and in plain and unassuming language, to
record his experiences, impressions, feelings, and im-
pulses, under circumstances often peculiarly trying.
vi PREFACE.
He lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an
earnest desire to make himself useful and to further
the cause of science.
It is more than probable that his career as an ex-
plorer and pioneer to civilization and commerce is term-
inated ; still he would fain hope that his humble exer-
tions may not be without their fruits.
When he first arrived in Africa, he generally traveled
on foot throughout the whole of the day, regardless of
heat, and almost scorning the idea of riding on horse-
back, or using any other mode of conveyance; indeed,
he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance; but
now, owing to the severe hardships he has undergone,
his constitution is undermined, and the foundation of a
malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with
him to the day of his death; yet such is the perverse-
ness of human nature that, did circumstances permit,
he would return to this life of trial and privation.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Sweden.—Day-dreams.—Fraternal Love.—A tempt-
ing Offer.—Preparations for Journey to Africa.—Departure from
England.—Arrival at the Cape.—Town and Inhabitants.—Table
Mountain.—Curious Legend.—Preparation for Journey into the
Interior.—Departure for Walfisch Bay.............cseeeseeeeee Page 19
CHAPTER IL.
Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Scenery.—Harbor described.—Want of
Water.—Capabilities for Trade.—Fish.—Wild-fowl.—Mirage.—
Sand Fountain. — The Bush-tick.— The Naras. — Quadrupeds
scarce. — Meeting the Hottentots.— Their filthy Habits.— The
Alarum.—The Turn-out.—Death of a Lion.—Arrival at Schepp-
mansdorf.—The Place described.—Mr. Bam.—Missionary Life.—
Ingratitude of Natives.—Missionary Wagons ..........-s.0ceeeceeees 29
CHAPTER II.
Preparations for Journey. —Breaking-in Oxen.— Departure from
Scheppmansdorf.—An infuriated Ox.—The Naarip Plain.—The
scarlet Flower.—The Usab Gorge.—The Swakop River.—Tracks
of Rhinoceros seen.—Anecdote of that Animal.—A Sunrise in the
Tropics.—Snufferings from Heat and Thirst.— Arrival at Daviep:
great resort of Lions.—A Horse and Mule killed by them.—The
Author goes in pursuit.—A troop of Lions.—Unsuccessful Chase.—
ener, Heals Palatable, .....0i0..0nsa00¢ oorgs ensesece serpent ee 44
CHAPTER IV.
The Gnoo and the Gemsbok.—Pursuit of a Rhinoceros.—Venomous
Fly.—Fruit of the Acacia nutritious.—Sun-stroke.—Crested Parrot.
_ —A Giraffe shot.—Tjobis Fountain.—Singular Omelet.—Nutritious
Gum.—aArrival at Richterfeldt.—Mr. Rath and the Missions.—The
Damaras: their Persons, Habits, &c.—Lions Troublesome.—Panic.
RAPS SICKNCES oc. svnnd core fodseesse saplle~abeveast stot os ee 56
Vili CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
Hans Larsen.—His Exploits.—He joins the Expedition.—How people
travel on Ox-back.— Rhinoceros Hunt.— Death of the Beast.—
‘Look before you Leap.” —Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proy-
erb,—Hans and the Lion.—The Doctor in Difficulties. —Sufferings
on the Naarip Plain.—Arrival at Scheppmansdorf........... Page 68
CHAPTER VI.
Return to Scheppmansdorf.—Training Oxen for the Yoke.—Sporting.
—The Flamingo.—The Butcher-bird: curious Superstition regard-
ing it.—Preparing for Journey.—Servants described .............. 76
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Scheppmansdorf.— Cattle refractory at starting. —
Tincas.—Always travel by Night.—Rhinoceros Hunt.—The Au-
thor in danger of a second Sun-stroke.—Reach Onanis.—A Tribe
of Hill-Damaras settled there.—Singular Manner in, which these
People smoke.—Effects of the Weed.—The Euphorbia Candela-
brum.—Remarkable Properties of this vegetable Poison.—Guinea-
fowl: the best Manner of shooting them.—Meet a troop of Gi-
raffes.—Tjobis Fountain again.—Attacked by Lions.—Providential
Hscape.— Arrival at Richterfeldt.............cccceccecesenseonveesessnres 83
CHAPTER VIII.
A hearty Welcome.—We remove the Encampment.—An Apparition.
—Audacity of wild Beasts.—Depriving Lions of their Prey.—Ex-
cessive Heat.—Singular effects of great Heat.—Depart for Barmen.
—Meet a troop of Zebras.—Their flesh not equal to Venison.—The
Missionary’s Wall.—A sad Catastrophe.—The “‘ Kameel-Doorn.”—
Buxton Fountain.—The Scorpion.—Arrival at Barmen .......... 95
CHAPTER IX.
Barmen.—Thunder-storm in the Tropics.—A Man killed by Light-
ning.—Warm Spring.—Mr. Hahn: his Missionary Labor; Seed
sown in exceeding stony Ground.—The Lake Omanbonde.—Mr.
Galton’s Mission of Peace.—The Author meets a Lion by the way ;
the Beast bolts.—Singular Chase of a Gnoo.—‘ Killing two Birds
with one Stone.”—A Lion Hunt.—The Author escapes Death by a
Miracle.—Consequences of shooting on a Sunday..............0++ 106
CONTENTS. 1x
CHAPTER X.
A Christmas in the Desert.—Mr. Galton’s Return from the Erongo
Mountain.—He passes numerous Villages.—Great Drought; the
Natives have a Choice of two Evils.—The Hill-Damaras.—The Da-.
maras a Pastoral People.—The whole country Public Property.—
Enormous herds of Cattle.-—They are as destructive as Locusts to
the Vegetation.—Departure from Richterfeldt—The Author kills
an Oryx.—The Oxen refractory.—Danger of traversing dry Water-
courses on the approach of the Rainy Season.—Message from the
Robber-chief Jonker.—Emeute among the Servants.—Depart for
Sehmelenmmiape! 22502. Roctaas eee do soc. Se secede Page 119
CHAPTER XI.
Schmelen’s Hope.—Scenery.—Missionary Station.—Raid of the Na-
maquas.—Ingratitude of the Natives.—Jonker’s Feud with Kahi-
chené; his Barbarities; his Treachery.—Mr. Galton departs for
Kikams.—Author’s successful sporting Excursions.—He captures a
young Steinbok and a Koodoo.—They are easily domesticated.—
Hyzenas very troublesome; several destroyed by Spring-guns.—The
latter described.—Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a Dog; Chase
and Death of the Leopard.—The Caracal ............csccsscseveeees 126
CHAPTER XII.
Wild-fowl abundant.—The Great Bustard.—The Termites.—Wild
Bees.—Mushrooms.—The Chief Zwartbooi.—Return of Mr. Galton.
—He makes a Treaty with Jonker.—He visits Rehoboth.—Misdo-
ings of John Waggoner and Gabriel.—Change of Servants.—Swarm
of Caterpillars—A reconnoitring Expedition.—Thunder-storm.—
The Omatako Mountains.—Zebra-flesh a God-send.—Tropical Phe-
nomenon.—The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity.—Encamp
in an Ant-hill.—Return to Schmelen’s Hope.—Preparations for vis -
PUES MIRE DONOG. << occas opm nay cne ca napens'ceen tae guts snap to Seusieeeaeaee 135
CHAPTER XiIll.
Depart from Schmelen’s Hope. — Meeting with Kahichené. — Oxen
Stolen.—Summary Justice.—Superstition.— Meeting an old Friend.
—Singular Custom. — Gluttony of the Damaras. — How they eat
Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound. — Superstitious Cus-
tom.—A nondescript Animal.—The Author loses his Way.—Rav-
ages of the Termites.—‘‘ Wait a bit, if you please.’”-—Magnificent
Fountain. — Remains of Damara Villages. — Horrors of War. —
A 2
pas CONTENTS.
Meet Bushmen.—Meet Damaras.—Difficulties encountered by Af-
CHAPTER XIV.
Omanbondé visited by Hippopotami.—Vegetation, &c., described.—
Game somewhat scarce.—Combat between Elephant and Rhinoce-
ros.—Advance or Retreat.—Favorable reports of the Ovambo-land.
—Resolve to proceed there.—Reconnoitre the Country.—Depart
from Omanbondé.—Author shoots a Giraffe.—Splendid Mirage.—
The Fan-palm.— The Guide absconds.— Commotion among the
Natives.—Arrive at Okamabute.— Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—
Vegetation.— Accident to Wagon.—Obliged to proceed on Ox-back.
—The Party go astray.— Baboon Fountain.— Meeting with the
Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c.—Return to Encampment.
— An Elephant killed.— Discover a curious Plant.— Immorality.
E—SRCHOCEIOMS 15). 36 Miss ctheere testes Siie ono Mose oeeecueys toe dese +» 162
CHAPTER XV.
Depart from Okamabuti.— Visit from a Lion.—Amulets.— Revisit
Baboon Fountain.—Otjikoto; a wonderful Freak of Nature; Re-
markable Cavern.—Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swim-
ming.—Fish abundant in Otjikoto; frequented by immense Flocks
of Doves.—Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing.
— Arrive at Omutjamatunda.— A greasy Welcome.— Ducks and
Grouse numerous.—Author finds himself somewhat ‘‘ overdone.” —
*¢ Salt-pans.”—All ‘‘look Blue.”—A second Paradise.—Hospitable
Reception.—V egetation.—People live in Patriarchal Style.—Popu-
lation.—Enormous Hogs.—Arrive at the Residence of the redoubt-
SB GSN ATI OTO | for sin vn sftide teas ns wf ppdolent fetes aside eben epeen Ge ae ete eae 178
CHAPTER XVI.
Visit from Nangoro.—His extreme Obesity.—One must be fat to wear
a Crown.—His non-appreciation of Eloquence.—Singular Effects
of Fireworks on the Natives.—Cure for making a wry Face.—Ball
at the Palace.—The Ladies very attractive and very loving.—Their
Dress, Ornaments, &c.—Honesty of the Ovambo.—Kindness to the
Poor.—Love of Country.—Hospitality.—Delicate manner of Eat-
ing.— Loose Morals.—Law of Succession.—Religion.—Houses.—
Domestic Animals.—Implements of Husbandry.—Manner of Tilling
the Ground.—Articles of Barter.—Metallurgy..............0..0..0. 190
CONTENTS. xl
CHAPTER XVII.
The River Cunené.—The Travelers ‘are Prisoners at large.—Kingly
Revenge.—Kingly Liberality.—Depart from Ondonga.—Sufferings
and Consequences resulting from Cold.—Return to Okamabuti.—
Damara Women murdered by Bushmen.—Preparations for Jour-
ney.—Obtain Guides.—Depart from Tjopopa’s Werft.—Game abun-
dant.—Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company.—Ex-
traordinary Visitation.—The Rhinoceros’s Guardian Angel.—The
Textor Erythrorhynchus.— The Amadina Squamifrons; singular
Construction of its Nest.— Return to Barmen................ Page 204
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Damaras.—Whence they came.—Their Conquests.—The Tide
turns. —Damara-land only partially inhabited. — Climate.— Sea-
sons.— Mythology. — Religion. — Superstitions.—Marriage.—Poly-
gamy.—Children.—Cireumcision.— Bury their Dead.—Way they
mourn.—Children interred alive.—Burial of the Chief, and Super-
stitions consequent thereon.—Maladies.—Damaras do not live long;
the Cause thereof.—Food.—Music and Dancing.—How they swear.
—Power of the Chieftain limited.—Slothful People-—Numerals.—
Astronomy.—Domestic Animals; their Diseases.................. 214
CHAPTER XIX.
Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town.—Depart from Barmen.—Eik-
hams.—Eyebrecht.—Depart from Eikhams.—Elephant Fountain.—
Tunobis.—Enormous quantities of Game.—Shooting by Night at
the ‘‘ Skarm.”-—The Author has several narrow Escapes.—Checked
in attempt to reach the Ngami.—The Party set out on their Return.
—Reach Elephant Fountain.—How to make Soap.—Pitfalls.—A
night Adventure.—Game scarce.—Join Hans.—The Party nearly
poisoned.—Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—A tub Adventure.—Extraor-
dinary Mortality among the Fish.— Author narrowly escapes Drown-
ing.—Arrival of the Missionary Vessel.—Letters from Home.—Mr.
Galton returns to Europe.—Reflections...............:seeseeeseeneues 229
CHAPTER XX.
Capture of young Ostriches.—Natural History of the Ostrich; where
found; Description of; Size; Weight; Age; Voice; Strength;
Speed; Food; Water; Breeding; Incubation; Cunning; Stones
found in Eggs; Chicks; Flesh.—Brain in request among the Ro-
mans.—Eggs highly prized.—Uses of Egg-shells.—Feathers an ar-
xil CONTENTS.
ticle of Commerce.—Ostrich Parasols.—The Bird’s destructive Pro-
pensities. — Habits. —Resembles Quadrupeds. — Domestication.—
The Chase. — Snares. — Ingenious Device. — Enemies of the
Meet ASO TNE ORR io coaccce swncce emai sacs seeenesact ae Page 247
CHAPTER XXI.
Sudden Floods.—John Allen’s Sufferings.—Hans and the Author en-
ter into Partnership.—Young Grass injurious to Cattle.—Depart
from Walfisch Bay.—Attractive Scenery.—Troops of Lions.—Ex-
traordinary Proceedings of Kites.—Flight of Butterflies.—Attach-
ment of Animals to one another.—Arrival at Richterfeldt; at Bar-
men.—Hans’s narrow Escape.—Self-possession.—Heavy Rains.—
Runaway Ox; he tosses the Author.—Depart from Barmen.—Dif-
ficulty of crossing Rivers.—Encounter great numbers of Oryxes. 264
CHAPTER XXII.
The Oryx; more than one Species.— Where found.—Probably known
in Europe previous to the discovery of the Passage round the Cape
of Good Hope.—Description of the Oryx.—Gregarious.—Speed.—
Food.—Water not necessary to its existence.—Will face the Lion.
—Formidable Horns.— Their Use.—Flesh.— The Chase of this
WNeriaineal pee vtec cee cote oe ec ciel e calcein cote se wee cnicls se cramten watson etetletaaleeetemes 272
CHAPTER XXIII.
Arrival at Eikhams.—Native Dogs ; cruelly treated.—Jonker Afrika-
ner.—The Author visits the Red Nation; the bad Repute of these
People.—The Author attacked by Ophthalmia.—The embryo Lo-
cust.—The “ flying” Locust; its Devastations.—The Locust-bird.
—Arrival at Rehoboth ; the Place described.................0000:: 277
CHAPTER XXIV.
Return to Eikhams.—Ugly Fall.—Splendid Landscape.—Jonker’s De-
linquencies.—How to manage the Natives. —The Ondara.—It kills a
Man.—How his Comrade revenges him.—Medical Properties of the
Ondara.—The Cockatrice.—The Cobra di Capella.—The Puff-ad-
der.—The Spitting Snake.—The Black Snake.—Few Deaths caused
by Snakes.— Antidotes for Snake-bites.—Return to Rehoboth.. 287
CHAPTER XXV.
The Author’s Tent takes Fire.—He loses every thing but his Papers.
—He is laid on a bed of Sickness.— Want of Medicine, &c.—Re-
flections. — Whole Villages infected with Fever.— Abundance of ~
CONTENTS. Xill
Game.—Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich.—A Lion breakfasts on
his Wife.—Wonderful shooting Star.—Remarkable Mirage.—Game
and Lions plentiful.— The Ebony-tree.— Arrival at Bethany, a
Missionary Station.—The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle—A
thirsty Man’s Cogitation.—Curious Superstition.—The Damara Cat-
tle described.—People who live entirely without Water.—Cross the
Orange River.—Sterile Country..........s.ccssccescssseceerooees Page 299
CHAPTER XXVI.
Great Namaqua-land.—Its Boundaries and Extent.—Its Rivers.—Na-
ture of the Country.—Vegetation and Climate.—Geological Struc-
ture. — Minerals. —“‘ Topnaars”’ and ‘‘ Oerlams.’’ — Houses. — My-
thology and Religion.—Tumuli.—Wonderful Rock.—Curious Le-
gend of the Hare.-—Coming of Age.—The Witch-doctor.—Amu-
lets.—Superstitions.—A Namaqua’s notion of the Sun.—Marriage.
—Polygamy.—Children. — Barbarous Practice.—Longevity.—Sin-
gular Customs.—Ornaments.—Tattooing.—Arms.—Idle Habits.—
Fond of Amusements. — Music and Dancing. — Spirits —Mead.—
GSS A MIMI AS | 0 ged. bs sitio bwwrs wg Biacanos oi oaaeeaameos ose vean ai 31i
CHAPTER XXVII.
Leave the Orange River. — Arrival at Komaggas. — Gardening and
Agriculture. — The Author starts alone for the Cape. — Colony
Horses.—Enmity of the Boers to “ Britishers.”—Dutch Salutation.
—The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no.—He
arrives at Cape-Town.—Cuts a sorry figure.—Is run away with.—
A Feast of Oranges.—Ghost Stories.—Cattle Auction.—Hans and
John Allen proceed to Australia.—Preparations for Journey to the
Neami.—-Departnre from, the Cape ssacies..sdiaesdagecccwsecepvaiseess a25
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Atrocities of the Namaquas.—Mr. Hahn.—
His Philanthropy.— Author departs for Richterfeldt.— Shoots a
Lion.—Lions unusually numerous.—Piet’s Performances with Li-
ons.—The Lion a Church-goer.—Barmen.—Eikhams.—Kamapyv’s
mad Doings and Consequences thereof—Kamapyu is wounded by
other Shafts than Cupid’s.—Author visits Cornelius ; here he meets
Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters.—Reach Rehoboth.
—Tan’s Mountain.—Copper Ore.—Jonathan Afrika.—A Lion sups
on a Goat.—A Lion besieges the Cattle ...................ccaeeeee es 339
X1V CONTENTS.
CHAPTER, XXIX.
Dispatch Cattle to the Cape.—Terrible Thunder-storm.—Trees struck
by Lightning.—The Nosop River.—A Comet.—The Author nearly
poisoned.—Some of the Men abscond; they return to their Duty.—
Babel-like confusion of Tongues.—Game abundant.—Author shoots
a Giraffe.—Meet Bushmen.—Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—Suffer-
ings from Hunger.—Tunobis.—Game scarce.—Author and Steed
entrapped.—Pitfalls—The Men turn sulky.—Preparations for de-
varture from Tunobis.—Vicious Pack-oxen.—Consequences of ex-
cessive Fatigue.-—The Jackal’s handiwork.—Tracks of Elephants.
—More Pitfalls.—Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish
Crocs! —Reaeh® Ghanzé 2.02 tesssse este. c. ceteece maccecssteneee Page 351
CHAPTER XXX.
Ghanzé.—Spotted Hyzena.—The Rhinoceros.—Where found.—Sev-
eral Species.— Description of Rhinoceros.—Size.—Appearance.—
Age.—Strength. — Speed. — Food.—Water.— The Young.—Affec-
tion.—Senses.—Disposition. — Gregarious.—Indolence.—Domesti-
cation.—Flesh.—Horns.—The Chase.—Mr. Oswell’s Adventures
with Rhinoceroses.—A_ Crotchet.—Where to aim at the Rhinoce-
ros.—Does not bleed externally when wounded.—Great numbers
SPITE MMULY Caine ants sowada tet cnn «alse nt sete ReneaccemepRpenrss aia seaveomes 368
CHAPTER XXXI.
Departure from Ghanzé.—Nectar in the Desert.—Difficulty in finding
Water.—Arrive at Abeghan.—Unsuccessful Chase.—A ‘‘ Charm.”
—How to make the undrinkable drinkable.—An Elephant wounded
and killed.—Bold and courageous Dog.—Kobis.—Author seized
with a singular Malady.—Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the
Lake Ngami.—A large troop of -Elephants.—Author kills a huge
Male.—Lions and Giraffe.—Author’s hair-breadth Escapes: from a
black Rhinoceros; from a white Rhinoceros; from two troops of
Elephants; he shoots a couple of his Adversaries.—Where to aim
at an Mléphamt 20555. hls Re I age 386
CHAPTER XXXII.
Timbo’s Return from the Lake; his Logic; he takes the Law in his
own Hands.—Calf of Author’s Leg goes astray.—A troop of Ele-
phants.—Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes
Death.—He shoots a white Rhinoceros.—He disables a black Rhi-
noceros.—He is charged and desperately bruised and wounded by
CONTENTS. XV
the latter.—He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu.—Author
again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by
the opportune Death of his Antagonist.—Reflections.—He starts for
fle ANAM sire nn oe cnabajaneenes sm eebpsios/deseh pac 9 teens Mtemnvolnaastseee Page 402
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Start from Kobis. — Meet Bechuana’s. — False Report. —Wonderful
Race of Men.—The Baobob-tree.—The Ngami.—First Impressions
of the Lake.—Reflections.—Experience some Disappointment.—
Reach the Zouga River and encamp near it.—Interview with Chief
Lecholetébe.—Information refused.—Immoderate Laughter.—Pres-
ents to the Chief.—His Covetousness.—His Cruelty.—Formidable
Difficulties.—Author permitted to proceed northward............ 413
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Ngami.—When discovered.—Its various Names.—Its Size and
Form.—Great Changes in its Waters.—Singular Phenomenon.—The
'Teoge River.—The Zouga River.—The Mukuru-Mukovanja River.
—Animals.—Birds.—Crocodiles.—Serpents.—Fish............65. 423
CHAPTER XXXvV.
The Batoana.—Government.—Eloquence.—Language.—Mythology.
—Religion.—Superstition.—'The Rain-maker. — Polygamy.—Cir-
cumcision.—Burial.—Disposition of the Bechuanas.—Thievish Pro-
pensities.—Dress.—Great Snuff-takers.—Smoking.—Occupations.
—Agriculture.—Commerce.—Hunting and Fishing.............. 436
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Departure for Libébé.—The Canoe.—The Lake.—Reach the Teoge.
—Adventure with a Leché.—Luxurious Vegetation.—Exuberance
of animal Life.—Buffaloes.—The Keodoo.—His Haunts.—Pace.
—Food.—Flesh.—Hide.—Disposition. —Gregarious Habits.—The
Tete re dene fetes swrricnms ois oiiaahs ae mationdasadsie's duces
two of these horrid creatures snugly ensconced in the folds of
the blanket or under the pillow. On one oceasion I killed
a scorpion measuring nearly seven and a half inches in
length, that had thus unceremoniously introduced itself into
my bed.
The following morning our guide declared it to be only a
few hours’ further traveling to Barmen. We therefore did
not hurry our departure, but took ample time to prepare, -
and to partake of, a substantial breakfast, consisting of some
strong coffee, and steaks of zebra-flesh, simply prepared on
the hot embers of our bivouac fire.
We arrived at Barmen just as the family was sitting down
to dinner, and Mr. Hahn kindly invited us to join in the am-
ple repast. I was happy to find Mr. Galton in the enjoyment
of health and excellent spirits, and he seemed delighted at
our safe and speedy return.
CHAPTER IX.
Barmen.—Thunder-storm in the Tropics.—A Man killed by Light-
ning.—Warm Spring.—Mr. Hahn: his Missionary Labor; Seed
sown in exceeding stony Ground.—The Lake Omanbonde.—Mr.
Galton’s Mission of Peace.—The Author meets a Lion by the way ;
the Beast bolts.—Singular Chase of a Gnoo.—* Killing two Birds
with one Stone.”—A Lion Hunt.—The Author escapes Death by a
Miracle.—Consequences of shooting on a Sunday.
Ar a first glance, Barmen has a rather dreary aspect.
Hans thought it resembled many of the most desolate parts
of Iceland; but, when more closely examined, it is found to
be by no means devoid either of interest or beauty. It is
situated about three quarters of a mile from the Swakop,
and on its right bank. Toward the west, and immediately
behind the station, rise irregular masses of low, broken rocks,
ending abruptly on one side in a bluff, about one thousand
feet high. ‘The whole are covered with a profusion of shrubs,
————
A THUNDER-STORM IN THE TROPICS. (107
and several species of thorn-trees of the genus acacia, which, —
during the greater part of the year, assume every shade of
green. To the eastward it faces the Swakop, the course of
which is conspicuously marked by the handsome black-
stemmed mimosa. Beyond this, the view is limited by a
noble range of picturesque mountains, rising between six
and seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. These
receive additional interest from being more or less a continu-
ation of those mighty chains which take their rise a very few
miles from Cape-Town, thus extending, in a direct line,
about one thousand miles.
Within a stone’s-throw of the missionary house, a turbu-
lent mountain stream winds its tortuous course. It flows,
however, only during heavy rains, when its great fall and
violence prove very destructive to the native gardens.
About two years from the period of which I am now
writing, I happened to be on a visit to Barmen, on which
“occasion I witnessed one of those extraordinary phenomena
only to be seen to perfection in tropical climes. One after-
noon, heavy and threatening clouds suddenly gathered in the
eastern horizon, the thunder rolled ominously in the dis-
tance, and the sky was rent by vivid lightnings. Knowing,
from long experience, its imports, we instantly set about
placing every thing under shelter that could be injured by
the wet. This was hardly accomplished when large drops
of rain began to descend, and in a few seconds the sluice-
gates of heaven appeared to have opened. The storm did
not last above half an hour, but this short time was sufii-
cient to convert the whole country into one sheet of water.
The noise, moreover, caused by the river and a number of
minor mountain streams, as they rolled down their dark.
muddy torrents in waves rising often as high as_ten feet, was
perfectly deafening. Gigantic trees, recently uprooted, and
others in a state of decay, were carried away with irresistible
fury, and tossed about on the foaming billows like so many
108 MR. HAHN.
straws. Every vestige of many gardens was swept away ;
and some of the native huts, which had been imprudently
erected too close to the river, shared a similar fate. Indeed,
it must have been a miniature deluge.
Wonderful, however, as is the sudden creation of these
floods, the very short time they require to disappear is no less
striking. An hour’s sunshine is sometimes sufficient to trans-
form flooded fields into a smiling landscape.
These commotions of the elements are of frequent occur-
rence in the tropics during the rainy season. Soon after Mr.
Galton’s arrival at Barmen there was a very heavy thunder-
storm. One evening, as he and Mr. Hahn were conversing,
they saw a Damara struck dead by lightning within a hund-
red yards of where they stood.
Water was abundant at Barmen, and very good. Mr.
Hahn had dug a large well in his own garden, which was of
very great convenience and comfort, as the water thus ob-
tnined was always clean and wholesome. Within a couple
of hundred paces of the dwelling-house there were, moreover,
two copious fountains. One of these was a warm spring,
the temperature being 157 degrees of Fahrenheit. By means
of small channels, this spring was made to irrigate a consid-
erable portion of garden land, and was also of great use in
seasoning timber. To the laundress, besides, it was invalu-
able. During our stay at Barmen we indulged freely in the
unusual and uncommon luxury of a bath, but it proved
somewhat relaxing.
Mr. Hahn was a Russian by birth, but had, for a number
of years, devoted himself to the service of the German Rhen-
ish Missionary Society, and was now using his best endeay-
ors to convert the natives of this benighted land. At first
he had settled among a tribe of Namaquas, under the pow-
erful robber - chief Jonker Afrikaner, of whom presently.
Finding, however, that these people infinitely preferred to
cut the throats of their fellow-creatures than to listen to his
THE MISSIONARIES AND THE NATIVES. 109
exhortations, and knowing, moreover, that several mission-
aries had already established themselves throughout various
parts of Great Namaqua-land, he thought that he might use
his influence to more advantage with the Damaras, among
whom, therefore, he had pitched his tent. Messrs. Rath and
Kolbé were his coadjutors in the good cause.
Seeing that their best endeavors were of little avail with-
out a proper knowledge of the Damara language, they work-
ed hard in order to master it, but the difficulty was immense.
At last, by the merest chance, they discovered the key to it,
and from that moment they made rapid progress; so much
so that, in the course of a few years, Mr. Hahn was able to
return to Germany, where he has compiled and published a
grammar and dictionary.
On the first appearance of the missionaries in Damara-
land, the natives were very reserved, and retired with their
eattle into the interior. Being wholly dependent on them
for supplies of live-stock, the settlers suffered great hardships
and privations. Indeed, on more than one occasion starva-
tion stared them in the face, and they lived for a long time
in a precarious way on such wild animals as their Hottentot
servants managed to kill. The Damaras, moreover, prob-
ably judging others by themselves, conceived the idea that
the missionaries had come into the country with some sinis-
ter object, and that it would be advisable to frustrate it.
Accordingly, they assembled in great numbers within a few
miles of Barmen for the purpose of exterminating the new
settlers. Their diabolical intentions were, however, frustrated
by the counsel of one of their tribe. At the time of which
Iam now writing, Mr. Hahn and his coadjutors had com-
pletely succeeded in pacifying and conciliating the Damaras,
and a great number of the poorer classes were now living at
the station, where, by a little industry and perseverance,
many managed to live in tolerable comfort. The great
source of their wealth consisted in the cultivation of tobacco,
—o
110 THE SEED IS SOWN IN VERY STONY GROUND.
which here grew to perfection, the leaves of this plant often
attaining the size of three feet by two. What they did not
consume themselves was bartered for cattle to their wealth-
ier countrymen.
Here, however, their civilization seemed to be at a stand-
still. The missionaries were laudably and strenuously ex-
erting themselves in their behalf, but as yet they had met
with little or no encouragement. To the mind of a Damara,
the idea of men visiting them solely from love and charity
is utterly inconceivable. They can not banish a suspicion
that the motives of the stranger must be interested; and
they not unfrequently require a bribe in return for any sery-
ices they may render to the missionary cause. As an in-
stance of the utter failure of religious zeal in these parts, I
may mention that Mr. Hahn, who is liked and respected by
the natives, never succeeded, as he himself told me, in con-
verting a single individual! In one instance, however, he
imagined that he had made a convert; but, before the indi-
vidual in question could be finally admitted as a member of
the Christian Church, it was necessary that he should give
satisfactory answers to certain questions. One of these was,
whether, according to the usages of Christianity, he would
be contented with one wife. To this the man replied that
though he was very anxious to oblige Mr. Hahn and his
friends personally, and to further the objects of the mission
in every way possible, yet his conscience would not permit
him to make so great a sacrifice as that required.
The wealthy Damaras were even more indifferent to spir-
itual matters than their poorer brethren; and if they hap-
pened to visit any of the stations, it was not for the purpose
of hearing the Gospel preached, but either in the hope of
protection against their enemies, or with a view to business
by bartering tobacco, iron-ware, and so forth. One excep-
tion to this rule was found in the case of the chief Kahichen<,
who had settled with part of his tribe at Schmelen’s Hope.
THE LAKE OMANBONDE. , 111
Mr. Galton had not been idle during my absence. Be-
sides collecting much interesting information with regard to
the Damaras and the Namaquas, he had ascertained the ex-
istence of a fresh-water lake called Omanbonde. This had
the effect of raising our spirits considerably. We had land-
ed at Walfisch Bay with a vague idea as to our route, and
had hitherto felt quite at a loss how to act.
To enable us to reach Omanbondeé it was necessary to
pass through Damara-land, which was totally unknown to
Europeans. Even the missionaries who had resided several
years on the frontiers were ignorant of the country beyond
a very few miles of their own stations. The Damaras them-
selves entertained the most extravagant notions of its extent,
population, and fertility. The people, however, were known
to be inhospitable, treacherous, suspicious, and inimical to
strangers. It had always been considered insecure to travel
among them, but more particularly so at this time, since
their southern neighbors, the Namaquas, attracted by their
vast herds, had lately made several extensive raids upon
them, killing the people, and carrying off large numbers of
cattle, sheep, &c. They believed, and with some show of
reason, that every individual of a light complexion was
leagued against them. They well knew that the cattle stolen
from them by their enemies, the Namaquas, were sold to
European traders; and they knew, also, that if, by accident
or design, the cattle belonging to the missionaries, or other
white men, were stolen by the thievish people in question,
they were always restored on application. This, together
with the fact than a European could pass unmolested
through the Namaqua territory, strengthened them in the
conviction that we were enemies in disguise.
In order, therefore, to calm their excited feelings, to as-
sure them of our friendly and peaceable intentions, and to
explain to them the real motive of our journey, Mr. Galton
had dispatched messengers to the principal Damara chiefs.
112 A SURPRISE.
He also wrote to Jonker Afrikaner (having previously sent
messengers to him while at Richterfeldt), remonstrating with
him on the barbarity and injustice of his conduct. Jonker
is a leading chieftain among the Namaqua-Hottentots. He
headed in person the greater part of the marauding expedi- —
tions into Damara-land.
Having spent a few days agreeably and usefully at Bar-
men, we prepared to return to our camp at Richterfeldt ; but
when the day of departure had arrived, I felt very feverish,
and Galton was obliged to prosecute his journey without me.
In a short time, however, I was able to follow.
On riding briskly along early one morning, I observed, as
I thought, a solitary zebra a few hundred yards in advance.
Instantly alighting, and leaving “Spring” to take care of
himself, I made toward the quarry, gun in hand, under cover
of a few small trees. Having proceeded for some distance,
peeped cautiously from behind a bush, when I found, to my
astonishment, that the animal which I had taken for a zebra
was nothing less than a noble lion. He was quietly gazing
at me. I must confess I felt a little startled at the unex-
pected apparition ; but, recovering quickly from my surprise,
fT advanced to meet him. He, however, did not think fit to
wait till I was within proper range, but turned tail, and fled
toward the Swakop. Hoping to be able to come to close
quarters with him, I followed at the top of my speed, and
was rapidly gaining ground on the brute, when suddenly,
with two or three immense bounds, he cleared an open space,
and was the next moment hidden from view among the thick
reeds that here lined the banks of the river. Having no
dogs with me, all my efforts to dislodge him from his strong-
hold proved unavailing. While still lingering about the
place, I came upon the carcass of a gnoo, on which a troop
of lions had apparently been feasting not many minutes pre-
viously. Undoubtedly my somewhat dastardly friend had
been one of the party.
CHASE OF A GNOO. 113
In the afternoon of the same day that I reached Richter-
feldt a very exciting and animating chase took place.
A CHRISTMAS IN THE DESERT. 119
CHAPTER X.
A Christmas in the Desert.—Mr. Galton’s Return from the Erongo
Mountain.—He passes numerous Villages.—Great Drought; the
Natives have a Choice of two Evils.—The Hill-Damaras.—The Da--
maras a Pastoral People.—The whole country Public Property.—
Enormous herds of Cattle.—They are as destructive as Locusts to
the Vegetation.—Departure from Richterfeldt.—The Author kills
an Oryx.—The Oxen refractory.—Danger of traversing dry Water-
courses on the approach of the Rainy Season.—Message from the
Robber-chief Jonker.—Emeute among the Servants.—Depart for
Schmelen’s Hope.
We had now been rather more than four months in the
country, and Christmas had imperceptibly stolen upon us.
Singularly enough, though I kept a journal, I was not aware
of the fact until one morning the men came to wish me a
“‘merry Christmas.” A merry Christmas! alas! there were
no merry children—no joyous feast—no Christmas trees or
other indication of “the hallowed and gracious time.” One
day was of the same importance to us as another. Moreover,
our store of grocery, &c., was too scant to enable our cook to
produce us a plum-pudding, or any of those dainty dishes
that even the working-man in civilized countries would be
sorry to be without at this season. Fortunately, we had now
so accustomed ourselves to “bush-diet,” that we did not even
feel the want of what others might deem to be the neces-
saries of life. Constant exposure to the fresh air and per-
petual exercise had so greatly increased our appetites, and
improved our digestive powers, that, though we might not,
like the natives, demolish a ‘‘ yard” or so of flesh at a meal,
we could, nevertheless, play our part at meals as well as any
London alderman; in fact, we could eat at all times, and
scarcely any thing ever came amiss. A draft of water
120 THE ERONGO MOUNTAIN. ve
from the pure spring, and a piece of dried meat just warmed
in the hot ashes, was as much relished by us as a glass of
sparkling pale ale and a slice of Yorkshire ham would have
been in Europe. :
In this way we managed to live on cheerfully and agree-
ably; yet thoughts of home, with all its comforts, and friends
dear to memory, would now and then flash across our minds.
Such reflections, however, we tried to avoid, as they only
served to sadden us. :
On the morning of the 26th of December Galton return-
ed from his excursion to Erongo. He had been suffering from
fever, and was right glad to find himself safe back at the en-
campment. The trip had been rather satisfactory. The
chief result of it was an addition of about twenty oxen, and
double that number of sheep and goats, to our live-stock. We
were now pretty well provided against all emergences, at
least for some time to come. Galton had, moreover, ascend-
ed the mountain, with which he expressed himself much
struck and pleased. He fully corroborated the story of the
natives as to its impregnability, for it was accessible only
in one or two places, and these could easily be defended
against a whole army by a mere handful of men.
In round numbers, it was about three thousand feet above
the level of the plain, and extended in a straight line upward
of fifteen miles. The vegetation appeared very much the
same as elsewhere in Damara-land, but perhaps more rank.
The wild fig-tree grew rather plentifully among the crevices
of the rocks, and the travelers obtained an abundance of the
fruit, which was very palatable.
Erongo was only inhabited by Hill-Damaras, under the
rule of different petty chiefs. From all accounts, they were
possessed of numerous herds of cattle; but my friend only
saw their tracks, as the natives were unwilling to sell or to
exhibit any of the animals. They waged an exterminating:
war with the Damaras, who lived in the plains below, and,
THE ERONGO MOUNTAIN—STRANGE CUSTOM. 121
having seen the party pass unmolested through the territory
of their mortal enemies, they were naturally suspicious as to
their motive. They probably thought that Mr. Galton had
come with a view to spy out and reconnoitre their stronghold,
and then to return with re-enforcements in order to carry
off their cattle.
Both in going and coming Galton had passed throuch sev-
eral large villages of Damaras, who complained bitterly of
the severe drought, which was daily carrying off numbers of
their stock. ‘The only place that still afforded grass and wa-
ter in tolerable abundance was the country bordering on the
River Swakop; but there they feared the Namaquas. How-
ever, they had only two alternatives—either to risk being
plundered by these unscrupulous people, or to perish, with
their cattle, from hunger and thirst. The first of these was
thought the least of the two, and they were, therefore, grad-
ually approaching the dangerous district. Indeed, several
kraals had already been established at Richterfeldt.
Being entirely a pastoral people, the Damaras have no
notions of permanent habitations. The whole country is con-
sidered public property. As soon as the grass is eaten off
or the water exhausted in one place, they move away to an-
other. Notwithstanding this, and the loose notions gener-
ally entertained by them as to mewm and tuum, there is an
understanding that he who arrives first at any given locality
is the master of it as long as he chooses to remain there, and
no one will intrude upon him without having previously ask-
ed and obtained his permission. ‘The same is observed even
with regard to strangers. Thus the once powerful chief
Kahichene was anxious to take up his quarters at Richter-
feldt ; but, acting on the understanding described, he first dis-
patched some of his head men to Mr. Rath, to ascertain from
him how far he was agreeable to his proposal. The reverend
gentleman replied that their master could do as he liked in
this matter, as he himself was but a stranger, and conse-
F
122 IMMENSE HERDS OF CATTLE.
quently could not lay any claim to the soil. However, the
messengers would not listen to this, and told him that their
chief would never think of intruding without having obtained
special permission to do so.
At this period Kahichene was supposed to be the richest
and most potent chieftain throughout the country. His
wealth, of course, consisted solely in oxen and sheep. To
give some idea of the number he then possessed, I will state
that, early on the day after the interview just mentioned had
taken place, the first droves began to make their appearance,
and continued to arrive, without intermission, till late in the
evening of the second day. Moreover, they did not come in
files of one or two, but the whole bed and banks of the Swa-
kop were actually covered with one living mass of oxen; and,
after all, this was but a small portion of what he really own-
ed. In the space of three short weeks not a blade of grass
or green thing was to be met with for many miles on either
side of Richterfeldt. Indeed, a person unacquainted with
the real cause of this desolation would have been likely to
attribute it to the devastating influence of that scourge of Af-
rica, the locust.
Much valuable time had hitherto been lost in obtaining
information of the country and the inhabitants, in buying
and breaking-in of cattle, and so forth, and this without our
having accomplished any considerable distance. We were
now in hopes, however, of being able to prosecute our journey
in earnest, and no time was lost in making the final arrange-
ments for our departure. Our intended route lay to the north
of Richterfeldt ; but as the country was said to be very hilly
and densely wooded, we deemed it advisable to proceed wid
Barmen. As hardly mules enough were left to draw the cart,
it was thought best to leave it behind in charge of Mr, Rath,
who kindly promised to look after it in our absence. The
two wagons were thought sufficiently large to contain our-
selves and baggage.
DEPARTURE FROM RICHTHRFELDT. 1s
The oxen, which from the beginning had been only par-
tially broken-in, were now, from their long rest, wild, refrac-
tory, and unmanageable in the extreme. Before we could
effectually secure the two spans (teams) necessary for the
wagons, several hours had elapsed, and it was not till late
in the afternoon of the 30th of December, 1850, that we
were able to bid a final farewell to Richterfeldt and its oblig-
ing inhabitants.
We made but little progress the first day; and when we
bivouacked for the night, which was on the right bank of the
Swakop, we were only three hours’ journey from the mis-
sionary station. Indeed, we were obliged to come to an ear-
ly halt in consequence of the mules and some of the oxen
having taken themselves off.
During the night we were serenaded by whole troops of
lions and hyenas. One of the latter had the boldness to
come within the encampment, and only retreated after an ob-
stinate combat with the dogs. In the bed of the river, more-
over, and where our cattle had been drinking during the night,
we discovered a spot where a lion had made a dash at a ze-
bra, but his prey had evidently disappointed him.
Next morning, without waiting for the return of the men
who had been sent in search of the missing animals, I shoul-
dered my gun and went in advance, in the hope of procuring
a few specimens of natural history, as also of meeting with
game of some kind or other; nor was I disappointed. Ata
bend of the river I suddenly encountered a fine herd of oryxes
or gemsboks, the supposed South African unicorn. As they
dashed across my path at double-quick time, and at least
one hundred and fifty yards in advance, I fired at the leading
animal (which proved a full-grown female), and had the
satisfaction to see it drop to the shot. On going up to my
prize, I found that the ball—a conical one—had passed clean
through both shoulders, and this was, perhaps, somewhat re-
markable, as the gun-barrel was smooth in the bore. Hav-
124 THE OXEN INTRACTABLE.
ing carefully removed the skin, with the head attached to it,
I set to work to quarter the flesh, —— was rather a labo-
rious task.
Though it was winter (January), the day was oppressive-
ly hot, and the leafless thorn-trees afforded no shelter against
the burning rays of the sun. I suffered excessively from
thirst, and, unfortunately, the wagons did not overtake me
till after sunset. The Damaras yelled with delight at the
sight of the oryx. ‘They had a glorious gorge that night,
and the return of daylight found them still at their feast !
With the exception of a heavy thunder-storm, accompanied
by a deluge of rain, our journey to Barmen was marked by
no farther incident worth recording. We reached it in safe-
ty on the 9th of January, 1851, after seven days’ travel, half
of which would have been sufficient under ordinary circum-
stances; but we had experienced very considerable difficul-
ties in getting our wagons forward. ‘The oxen pulled well
enough so long as the country was level, but the moment
they had to face a hill they came to a stand, and no amount
of flogging would induce them to move. When the whip
was applied, it only produced a furious bellowing, kicking,
tossing of heads, switching of tails, and so forth. On such
occasions they would not unfrequently twist themselves en-
tirely round in the yoke, and it often took a whole hour to
put them to rights again.
On account of the thick wood and general ruggedness of
the country, the dry beds of periodical water-courses afford
the only really practicable road. On the approach of the
rainy season, however, these are not always safe; for, when
in imagined security, the traveler may perhaps all at once
find himself in the midst of a foaming torrent. If the oxen
are not well trained, most serious results are to be dreaded.
There are many instances of wagons with their teams hav-
ing been thus ee and swept away. Our fears on this
head, therefore, were not quieted until we were in full view
REFRACTORY SERVANTS. ; 25
of the missionary-house at Barmen. Indeed, it was high
time, for on the third day of our arrival there the Swakop
sent down its mighty flood.
The first showers of rain, it should be remarked, usually
fall as early as September and October, but the rainy season
does not fairly set in until December and January.
A letter from Jonker Afrikaner was awaiting our arrival,
expressing a wish that Mr. Galton, in person, would pay him
an early visit, that they might confer together on the affairs
of the country. My friend was at first a little undecided
how to act, as it might only have been a ruse of the crafty
chief to entrap him. However, as, under every circumstance,
it would be better to know his real intentions than to be kept
in constant uncertainty and suspense, he determined, as soon
as circumstances permitted, to comply with Jonker’s desire.
When we bade farewell to Richterfeldt, it was in the firm
conviction that the principal obstacles to the expedition had
been removed; but we were sadly mistaken. Under ‘differ-
ent pretexts, the natives whom we had engaged suddenly
refused to proceed any further. Even the man who had
first drawn our attention to the Lake Omanbonde, and who
seemed to be the only one acquainted with it, threatened to
leave us. Our Cape servants also became somewhat sulky
and discontented. Indeed, two of them, Gabriel and John
Waggoner, whom the reader will remember as having al-
ready given us some trouble, demanded and obtained their
dismissal. Thus circumstanced, it was out of the question
to think of immediately carrying our plan into execution.
We felt excessively annoyed, and our stock of patience was
well-nigh exhausted. Still, we did not give up all hope of
ultimate success.
Barmen, however, was ill suited as an encampment; for,
though agreeable enough as a residence for ourselves, grass
for the cattle was scarce and distant. Mr. Hahn advised
us to push on to Schmelen’s Hope, situated at about fifteen
126 SCHMELEN’S HOPE.
miles to the northward, where, inasmuch as there had not
been any natives dwelling of late, we should find abundance
of pasturage. Accordingly, we acted on his suggestion, and
in the afternoon of the 13th of January were established at
that place.
CHAPTER XI.
Schmelen’s Hope.—Scenery.—Missionary Station.—Raid of the Na-
maquas.—Ingratitude of the Natives.—Jonker’s Feud with Kahi-
chené; his Barbarities; his Treachery.—Mr. Galton departs for
Eikams.—Author’s successful sporting Excursions.—He captures a
young Steinbok and a Koodoo.—They are easily domesticated.—
Hyzenas very troublesome; several destroyed by Spring-guns.—The
latter described.—Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a Dog; Chase
and Death of the Leopard.—The Caracal.
SCHMELEN’s Hope is picturesquely situated on the right
bank of the Little Swakop, and just at the confluence of one
of its tributaries, the banks of which were lined with ma-
jestic trees of the mimosa and the acacia family. Some of
these were now in full bloom, and presented an interesting
and beautiful appearance. Heavy showers of rain, more-
over, having lately fallen, the grateful earth acknowledged
the tribute by rapidly sending forth her boundless store of
aromatic herbs and plants—
‘“Herbs for man’s use of various power,
That either food or physic yield.”
The whole aspect of the country changed as if by magic,
and I gazed on the altered features of the landscape in
rapture and amazement. It strongly reminded me of the
Psalmist’s words—
‘* His rains from heaven parch’d hills recruit,
That soon transmit the liquid store,
Till earth is burden’d with her fruit,
And Nature’s lap can hold no more.”
_ MISSIONARY STATION—NAMAQUAS. 127
Schmelen’s Hope (Schmelen’s Vervachtung) is so called,
partly on account of its advanced position, and partly in
honor of its founder, the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, who, by all ac-
counts, was one of the most gifted and most enterprising of
missionaries that ever set foot on African soil. For a time
this station was occupied by Mr. Hahn, and recently by his
colleague, Mr. Kolbé. About the time that we landed at
Walfisch Bay, however, the latter had found it necessary to
beat a precipitate retreat, in consequence of an attack upon
the station by a party of Namaquas.
Shortly after Mr. Kolbé’s settlement at Schmelen’s Hope
he was joined by Kahichent’—of whom mention has been
made in the foregoing pages—and a considerable number of
his tribe. They continued to live here in the most unsus-
pecting security. The missionary cause made considerable
progress, and hopes were really entertained that Damara-
land might eventually be civilized. ‘The golden visions of a
happy future for this unfortunate country were, however,
speedily dispersed by the sudden appearance of a party of
Namaquas, under the immediate command of Jonker Afri-
kander. By this band a great number of natives were mas-
sacred ; a considerable booty of cattle was carried off; and
Kahichené himself had a hairbreadth escape. Just as he
was making good his retreat, he was observed and followed
by a mounted Namaqua. On finding himself hard pressed,
and that it was impossible to avoid his pursuer, the chief
turned quickly round, and the next instant, with a poisoned
arrow, laid the man dead at his feet.
Many acts of great cruelty were perpetrated on this occa-
sion, of which the following may be cited. Several Damaras
had taken refuge on the summit of an isolated rock eighty
or ninety feet in height. As soon as the Namaquas perceived
them, they coolly” seated themselves round the base, and,
whenever any of the poor fellows peeped forth from their
hiding-places, they were shot like so many crows. Mr. Gal-
i
128 INGRATITUDE OF THE NATIVES.
ton and myself visited the spot soon after our arrival at
Schmelen’s Hope, and saw the bleached bones of the victims
scattered about, but we were unable to ascertain the exact
number of people killed, as the jackals and the hyzenas had
carried away and demolished many parts of the skeletons.
Though no direct attack was made on the missionary sta-
tion on this occasion, Mr. Kolbé nevertheless considered it
would be imprudent to remain there any longer. According-
ly, packing the most valuable of his goods on his wagon, he
hurriedly departed for Barmen.
A few days afterward, some fugitive Damaras returned
to the place of their misfortunes, and, on finding the house
abandoned, they were base enough to despoil it of its con-
tents. Moreover, what they could not themselves use they
wantonly destroyed or scattered about on the ground. On
our arrival at Schmelen’s Hope, therefore, we found nothing
remaining but the mere shell of the house. This, though
simply constructed of clay, and thatched with reeds, was
rather neatly executed, and had apparently, at one time,
been the exterior of a comfortable dwelling, nae
Water was obtained from a large pool or vley, which,
however, in very arid years, might dry away. About five
miles up the Swakop was, moreover, a rather copious fount-
ain, called Okandu, where cattle might drink.
Generally speaking, if they have a chance of obtaining cat-
tle, the Namaquas are not at all nice as to whether they rob
friend or foe. On this particular occasion, however, they
were supposed to have had an old grudge against Kahichené
and his tribe. Once, as Jonker and a large party of his fol-
lowers were on the way to Walfisch Bay, their provisions
failed them, and hearing that Kahichene, with whom they
were then on friendly terms, was in the neighborhood, they
bent their steps toward his kraal. Kahiclene received them
civilly, but refused to supply their wants. He, however, ad-
vised Jonker to help himself to cattle from another Damara
JONKER’S TREACHERY. 129
chief, who, he said (though without any kind of foundation),
was their mutual enemy. Jonker did not wait to be told
twice, but immediately attacked this man’s kraal. In the
fight that ensued, some of Kahichané’s people were accident-
ally killed; but he, believing the slaughter had been inten-
tionally perpetrated, made a furious onset on Jonker that very
night. As usually happens, however, and perhaps in some
degree owing to the Damaras having fewer guns than the
Namaquas, he was beaten off with very severe loss. Though
the affair was afterward made up between the chiefs, Jonker,
in his heart, never forgave Kahichene’s attack upon him,
which he looked upon as a breach of faith.
In all the attacks of the Namaquas the most atrocious bar-
barities were committed. ‘The men were unmercifully shot
down ; the hands and the feet of the women lopped off; the
bowels of the children ripped up, &c.; and all this to gratify
a savage thirst for blood. Many poor creatures have I my-
self seen dragging out a miserable existence that had thus
been deprived of limbs or otherwise cruelly mutilated.
Jonker himself would seem to have been callous to all the
better feelings of our nature. News having been brought to
him on one occasion of the loss of a merchant vessel (some-
where about Cape Cross), he and his men started in search
of the wreck. Before reaching it, some of his cattle were
stolen, and as the theft was conjectured to have been com-
mitted by the Damaras, Jonker sent for the chief of the sus-
pected tribe, received him in a friendly way, and invited him
to remain at his camp for the night, in the course of which,
however, he caused him to be brutally murdered. Before ex-
piring, the poor fellow requested permission to see his wife
and children, but Jonker was inhuman enough to refuse his
request. On receiving a denial, the unfortunate man turned
toward his slayer, and, wiping the blood from his face, ex-
claimed, ‘‘Since you have dealt thus treacherously by me,
and even refused to allow me to see my family, you shail
F2
130 SPORTING EXCURSIONS.
never prosper; and my cattle, which I well know you covet,
shall be a curse to you!”
It has been asserted that Jonker once contemplated the ex-
termination of all grown men among the Damaras, and of di-
viding the women, the children, and the cattle among his own
people, hoping thereby to make his tribe the most powerful
in that part of Africa.
On the 16th of January Mr. Galton started for Kikhams,
the residence of Jonker Afrikaner, on his mission of peace.
He was accompanied by Hans, John Mortar, and two or three
native servants.
Two days later, the mules, though closely watched, man-
aged to elude our vigilance and make good their escape.
Fortunately, they were intercepted at Barmen, whence they
were kindly sent back by Mr. Hahn. Not long afterward
they again went off, but, passing Barmen this time in the
night, no one saw them, and, consequently, they were allow-
ed to pursue their course uninterruptedly, and were never ré-
taken. Strange to relate, these animals (with the exception
of two that were destroyed by lions in the neighborhood of
Richterfeldt) ultimately found their way back to Schepp-
mansdorf, having traveled above 200 miles by themselves !
During Mr. Galton’s absence I managed to beguile the
time agreeably and usefully. Indeed, I spent some of my
happiest days in this quiet, secluded, and charming spot, in
the full enjoyment of unrestrained liberty. The mornings
were usually devoted to excursions in the neighborhood in
search of game. Of quadrupeds, we had the giraffe, the
gnoo, the gemsbok, the springbok, the koodoo, the pallah, the
steinbok, &¢., so that I had no difficulty in keeping the lard-
er pretty well supplied. I also made many an interesting
and valuable addition to my collection of specimens of nat-
ural history.
One day a young steinbok was captured, as also a koo-
doo, and I was fortunate enough to rear both.
DEATH OF TWO FAVORITES—HYENAS. Ist
With the steinbok I had very little trouble, a she-goat,
whom I deprived of its kid, having taken to it kindly, and
become to it a second mother. The keodoo did not give me
much more trouble; for, after a few days, during which milk
was given to it with a spoon, it would of itself suck from
what mothers call a “feeding-bottle,’* and butt and pull
away at it as if it was drawing nourishment from the teats
of its dam. : :
Both the steinbok and the koodoo were very pretty crea-
tures, and in a short time became very tame and affectionate.
Their lively and graceful caperings, and playful frolics, were
io us all a source of much amusement. Their end, however,
was somewhat tragical: the steinbok died from exhaustion
after a severe day’s march, and the koodoo, which would
have been a valuable addition to the beautiful menagerie in
Regent’s Park, I was obliged to kill, because we could not
obtain a sufficiency of proper food for its maintenance, and
had no room in the wagon for its conveyance. It grieved me
much to destroy the poor creature, but there was no alterna-
tive.
Hyznas, called wolves by the colonists, were very nu-
merous at Schmelen’s Hope, and exceedingly audacious and
troublesome. More than once, during dark and drizzling
nights, they made their way into the sheep-kraal, where they
committed sad havoc. We had several chases after them,
but they managed invariably to elude us.
TS get rid of these troublesome guests, we placed some
spring-guns in their path, and by means of this contrivance
compassed the death of several.
The manner in which the spring-gun is set for the hyzna
is as follows:
Two young trees are selected and divested of their lower
branches, or, in lieu of such, a couple of stout posts, firmly
* A bottle of any kind, filled with milk, and with a quill (enveloped
in linen) inserted in the cork.
132 SPRING GUN FOR THE HYZENA.
SHOOTING TRAP.
VISIT FROM A LEOPARD. 133
driven into the ground, will answer the purpose equally well.
To these trees or posts, as the case may be, the gun is firmly
lashed in a horizontal position, and with the muzzle pointing
slightly upward. A piece of wood about six inches in length
—the lever, in short—is tied to the side of the gun-stock in
such a manner as to move slightly forward and backward.
A short piece of string connects the trigger with the lower
part of the lever. ‘To the upper extremity of the latter is
attached a longer piece of cord, to the outer end of which,
after it has been passed through one of the empty ramrod
tubes, is tied a lump of flesh, which is pushed over the muz-
zle of the gun.
These matters being arranged, a sort of fence, consisting
of thorny bushes, is made around the spot, only one small,
narrow opening being left, and that right in front of the
muzzle of the gun.
miles of country we had crossed presented, perhaps, as dreary
and uninteresting a prospect as can well be imagined. ~
In our absence, Tjopopa, with his people, left Okamabuti,
and removed a few miles farther to the westward. Our men
followed his example. On approaching the camp, we espied
Hans perched in the top of a tree anxiously looking out for
our return. The whole party was almost wild with delight
at seeing us safe back, of which they began to despair. They
had passed a most dreary time. The natives, though friend-
ly, teased and annoyed them excessively with begging and
even pilfering, the chief, as not unfrequently happens, hav-
208 GAME SCARCE—BUSHMEN——GUIDES.
ing been the most importunate of the whole lot. Moreover,
he had not paid his debt, nor would he sell Hans any more
cattle; and, as there was then very little game in the neigh-
borhood, they were so pressed for food that Hans was obliged
to reduce the men’s allowances very considerably. Our Da-
mara servants lived for some time solely on such birds and
small animals as they could kill by means of the dogs. For-
tunately, Hans possessed some tobacco; and, while the na-
tives refused every thing else, he was able to obtain a few
sheep for this article, which proved a most opportune supply.
Not many days previous to our arrival eight Damara wom-
en had been surprised by the Bushmen and unmercifully put
to death. This, however, was not to be wondered at, for the
Damaras themselves are always waging an exterminating
war on the Bushmen. Indeed, they hunt them down, wher-
ever met with, like wild beasts.
Hans had succeeded in repairing the wagon most satis-
factorily ; and the oxen, though rather lean, were in tolera-
bly good working order. We now determined to turn our
faces homeward without a moment’s delay. A very few
days were sufficient to enable us to complete the final prepa-
rations.
By this time all the pools of rain-water which had be-
friended us on our journey northward were dried up, and it
would therefore have been impossible to retrace our steps
by the same route. ‘The Damaras strongly advised us to
strike the Omuramba-k’Omatako at a certain point, and
vy following its course they assured us we should find water
and pasturage in abundance. One man, in particular, who
had always shown himself civil and obliging, offered to act
as guide the first part of the way; for the remainder we
secured the services of a lad professing to be well acquainted
with the country. Having on so many occasions been de-
ceived by the natives, we did not much relish the idea of
again trusting ourselves to their guidance. However, there
DEPART FROM TJOPOPA’S WERFT. 209
was no alternative; and in this instance, to do justice to the
men, I must say they not only spoke the truth, but perform-
ed their services most satisfactorily.
Without bidding farewell to Tjopopa, who throughout had
treated us inhospitably, we yoked our oxen on the 5th of |
July, and after about three days’ travel arrived in the Omu-
ramba. At this point the river (or rather the river-bed) ap-
peared to cease altogether; but the natives declared that it
continued to flow toward the Ovatjona or Matjo’na. I have
since ascertained that they alluded to the Bechuana country.
Hence we traveled steadily up toward its source. Its bed,
which sometimes spread out into a flat, and at others formed
a narrow channel, afforded us always a good and open road.
The country on both sides was hemmed in by an apparently
endless thorn coppice. We usually found water daily, at first
in pools, but afterward exclusively in wells, varying in depth
from a few feet to as much as forty. ‘These were generally
choked up with sand, and it often occupied us half a day to
clean them out. I remember, on one occasion, working hard,
with a party consisting of about thirty men and women,
during upward of twenty hours, before we could obtain a
sufficiency of water. It was cold work; for about sunrise
the ice was often half an inch thick, and we had no water-
proof boots to protect our feet.
Game now became abundant. We managed to kill suffi-
cient for the table without being obliged to have recourse to
our few remaining live-stock. I saw here for the first time
that magnificent antelope, the eland.
Beasts of prey were likewise numerous. Indeed, they
always follow the larger game. During the nights we were
constantly annoyed by the dismal howlings of the hyzenas ;
and we had some very exciting foot-chases after these animals.
While out hunting early one morning I espied a small
troop of:gnoos quietly grazing at a bend of the river. Cau-
tiously approaching them under shelter of the intervening
210 STALKING GNOOS IN COMPANY WITH LIONS.
eround, they suddenly tossed their heads, switched their tails,
scraped the earth impatiently with their hoofs, and sniffed the
air. I was puzzled how to account for this unusual agita-
tion, as, from my position, I was certain they could not have
discovered me. But I had not much time for conjecture, for
the next instant I was startled by the growl of some animal
close to me. On looking in the direction whence it proceed-
ed, I discovered, to my utter astonishment, two lions and a
lioness on the rising ground just above me, and, as it seem-
ed, they also were on the look-out for the gnoos.* I instinct-
ively leveled my piece at the head of the nearest of the beasts =
but a moment’s reflection convinced me that the odds were
too great, and I therefore thought it best to reserve my fire,
so as to be in readiness to receive them should they charge.
After having regarded me for a few seconds, however, they
growlingly disappeared behind a sand-hill.
By this time the gnoos had become aware of the lions,
and were making off at the top of their speed. Being anx-
ious to obtain a shot at them, I followed on their tracks, bus
soon found, to my dismay, that my three royal friends, with
jaws distended and uttering furious growls, were following a
course parallel to mine. Though I must confess I did not
at all like their looks, as only excessive hunger could have
induced them, in broad day, to seek for victims, I neverthe-
less continued to follow the tracks of the antelopes until they
led me into the bush, where I presently lost them as well as
myself.
On first seeing the gnoos, I left my henchman “ Bill,” a
Damara lad, who carried my spare gun, at some distance
behind, with directions to follow on my track according to
circumstances. Now that the gnoos were lost to me, I shout-
ed loudly to the youth, and also discharged my gun more than
* The plate facing the page represents two lions observing me, while
the lioness, not yet aware of my presence, is still eagerly pushing on
toward the intended victims.
"SNOINVdWOO DNIINOH FWAOOTHMNOA
UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS.
211
yo EXTRAORDINARY VISITATION.
once, but was unable to elicit a reply. ‘Thinking, however, .
that he might have returned to our encampment (which was
at no great distance), I also repaired there. But “ Bill” had
not been heard of. ‘The harassing suspicion at once crossed
’ my mind that the lions had eaten him. Without a moment’s
delay, I hurried back to the spot where I had last seen the
beasts, but all my endeavors to find the poor fellow were
unavailing. What with anxiety on his account, and my ex-_
ertions under a broiling sun (for if the weather was frosty
at night, it calcined one by day), I was unable to proceed
farther, and sat myself down on the ground to wait for the
arrival of the wagons, which were now moving forward.
Just at this moment, the Damara, to my inexpressible de-
light, emerged from the bush. His story was soon told.
He had, like myself, lost his way, and it was long before he
was able to recover the right track.
One morning, as we were about to yoke the oxen, we were
amused to see them suddenly start off in every direction in
the wildest confusion, and cutting the most ridiculous capers.
The cause of this commotion was the arrival of a large flock
of the buphaga Africana, which alighted on the backs of the
cattle for the purpose of feeding on the ticks with which their
hides are covered. By means of their long claws and elastic
tails, these birds are enabled to cling to and search every part
of the beast. It was evident, however, that our oxen had
never experienced a similar visitation; no wonder, there-
fore, that they were taken somewhat aback at being thus
unceremoniously assailed.
The buphaga Africana is also a frequent companion of the
rhinoceros, to which, besides being of service in ridding him
of many of the insects that infest his hide, it performs the
important part of sentinel. On many occasions has this
watchful bird prevented me from getting a shot at that beast.
The moment it suspects danger, it flies almost perpendicu-
larly up into the air, uttering sharp, shrill notes, that nev-
BIRDS’ NESTS USED FOR WADDING. 213
er fail to attract the attention of the rhinoceros, who, with-
out waiting to ascertain the cause, almost instantly seeks
safety in a precipitate flight. According to Mr. Cumming,
these birds also attend upon the hippopotamus.
Another bird (textor erythrorhynchus) is also in the habit
of feeding upon parasitical insects, but is said to restrict its
visits to the buffalo. In the part of Damara-land of which }
am now speaking, that animal is unknown, yet the bird was
in very great numbers. It appeared to be very social in its
habits, living in colonies, and building its nest, which consists
of dry sticks, on lofty trees.
We also made acquaintance with a small, sparrow-looking
bird, the amadina squamifrons, which deserves notice on ac-
count of its peculiar and interesting nest. According to Dr.
Andrew Smith, this is placed on a small shrub, and is con-
structed of grass. But in Damara-land and parts adjacent,
the materials are of a beautifully soft texture, not unlike
sheep’s wool. I never could discover the plant from which
it was procured. ‘The Hottentots use it as a substitute for
gun-wadding, and it is by no means a bad makeshift. The
nest is so strongly put together that one has difficulty in
separating it. When the old bird absents itself, it effectually
conceals the opening of the nest from view. Even long after
I was acquainted with this peculiarity, I was puzzled to find
it out. Just above the entrance is a small hollow, which has
no communication with the interior of the nest, but which,
by the uninitiated, is often mistaken for it. In this tube the
male bird sits at night.
We occasionally fell in with Damara villages. In our
journey northward the natives had shown themselves ex-
cessively timid and suspicious, but now that they had so
many evidences of our peaceful intentions, they approached
our camp without the least reserve or hesitation; but we
could not induce them to part with any cattle, of which we
stood much in need.
214 RETURN TO BARMEN—THE DAMARAS.
On the 26th of July we came in sight of Omatako, and
many other well known hills. On the 3d of August we
found ourselves at Schmelen’s Hope; but how different an
aspect did it present to that which lived in our memory!
When we left it about three months previously, the country
was covered with the most luxuriant vegetation. Since
then, the Damaras had been encamping there with their cat-
tle, and we were now unable to obtain sufficient pasturage
for our animals. The water, moreover, was all but exhausted.
On the following day, the 4th of August, we continued
our journey to Barmen, where we arrived on the afternoon
of the same day safe and well.
Thus ended an expedition which, although it might not
haye been so successful as we had anticipated, was not with-
out its fruits.
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Damaras.—Whence they came.—Their Conquests.—The Tide
turns. — Damara-land only partially inhabited. — Climate.— Sea-
sons.— Mythology. — Religion. — Superstitions.—Marriage.— Poly-
gamy.—Children.—Circumcision.— Bury their Dead.—Way they
mourn.—Children interred alive.—Burial of the Chief, and Super-
stitions consequent thereon.—Maladies.—Damaras do not live long;
the Cause thereof.—Food.—Music and Dancing.— How they swear.
—Power of the Chieftain limited.—Slothful People-—Numerals.—
Astronomy.—Domestic Animals; their Diseases.
FREQUENT opportunities had by this time been afforded me
of observing and studying the physical features of the coun-
try, the character of the natives, and their religious rites and
customs. Having previously said but little on these sub-
jects, I propose now to give some account of them. Though,
from the lying habits of the Damaras, great difficulty has
arisen in arriving at the truth, I believe that my statements
wiil not be very wide of the mark. Besides the concurrent
ORIGIN OF THE DAMARAS. 215
testimony of many of the natives, I have had the satisfaction,
on comparing my notes with those of the missionaries, to
find them agree in the main; and as it has been my fate to
witness the complete ruin and downfall of the Damaras—
who, probably, before another century has passed away will
be forgotten—I think that a connected and somewhat detail-.
ed description of their history may not be unacceptable to
the general reader.
That the Damaras have not resided for any length of time
in the country which they now occupy is quite certain,
though whence they came is doubtful. Some of these peo-
ple point to the north as their original home; others con-
jecture that they migrated from the northeast.* Be this as
it may, it would appear quite certain that about seventy years
ago not a Damara was to be found south of the Kaoko, but
that, at some time within this period, they invaded the coun-
try, then inhabited by Bushmen and Hill-Damaras, the last
being in all probability the aborigines. Not having a war-
like disposition, the Hill-Damaras were easily subdued, and
those who were not killed were made captives. The few
that escaped took refuge among the mountains, or other in-
hospitable and inaccessible regions, where they are still found
dragging on a most miserable and degraded existence.
The Damaras were once, undoubtedly, a great nation ;
but, unlike others which gradually become powerful by the
union of a number of smaller tribes under the head of a sin-
gle chief or king, they have dwindled into an endless number
of petty tribes, ruled by as many chiefs.
* In my journey to the Lake Ngami at an after period, I observed
whole forests of a species of tree called Omumborombonga, the sup-
posed progenitor of the Damaras. This fact, coupled with our knowl-
edge that all the tribes to the north are more or less conversant with
agriculture, of which the Damaras know nothing (having no word in
their language for cereal food), and that many of the nations to the
east are partly pastoral, would seem to indicate a northeast or east
direction as their original home.
216 THE NAMAQUA-HOTTENTOTS.
After their conquest of the country, the Damaras con-
tinued to extend themselves, without much opposition, to the
east nearly as far as Lake Ngami, and to about the twenty-
fourth degree of latitude on the south. At both these points,
however, they were checked in their onward career. At
first they were attacked by the Matjo’nas, with whom, -from
time to time, they had several desperate conflicts ; and though
they appear to have fought well, they were ultimately obliged
to retreat with considerable loss. But it was from the Na-
maqua-Hottentots that thay were destined to experience the
greatest reverse, by whom, as will by-and-by be shown, they
were finally destroyed or broken up.
About the period of the conquest alluded to a small tribe
of Namaqua-Hottentots had pitched their tents on the banks
of the Orange River, under the rule of Jonker Afrikaner,”
who was then a chief of only secondary importance; yet, as
his people were possessed of horses and fire-arms, he soon
became formidable to his enemies. ‘The territory lying be-
tween him and the Damaras was occupied by various tribes
of Namaquas, who, on finding themselves hard pressed by the
Damaras sent to Jonker to demand his assistance. ‘This he
granted ; and, like another Cesar, “came, saw, and con-
quered.”’ Indeed, that day sealed the fate of Damara-land.
The Namaquas, at first the oppressed, became in their turn
* His father, Christian Afrikaner, once lived within the present
boundary of the Cape Colony ; but his brother having killed a Dutch
farmer, from whom the tribe is said to have suffered much wrong, he
and his kindred were obliged to fly the country. He then settled on
the banks of the Garib or Orange River, where he soon became famous
for his daring and ferocious exploits against his neighbors. In this
state of things he was found by the Rev. Mr. Moffat, well known for
his missionary labors in Southern Africa, who, after having experi-
enced much opposition, finally succeeded in converting him to Chris-
tianity. At his death the present Jonker Afrikaner, though an elder
brother was still living, assumed the chieftainship, which occasioned a
division in the tribe, and was, moreover, the original cause of their
migration northward.
CLIMATE—SEASONS—WHIRLWINDS. PA i |
the oppressors. In proportion as they grew powerful and
successful, the prospect of booty, which the vast herds of
sleek cattle so amply afforded them, was the sole object of
their inroads upon the Damaras. They appeared to have
adopted the motto of the old sea-kings,
“That they should take who have the power,
And they should keep who can.”
From my first arrival in the country to the time I left it
—a period of less than four years—the Namaquas had de-
prived the Damaras of fully one half of their cattle, the other
portion haying already been taken from them previously to
my visit. With the loss of their property followed that of
their independence.
Although a large tract of country is marked on the maps
as Damara-land, a small portion only is inhabitable. This
may also be affirmed of Namaqua-land; and in both cases
the disparity arises either from scarcity of water or the fre-
- quency of inextricable jungles of thorn-wood.
Damara-land being situated in the tropic of Capricorn,
the seasons are naturally the reverse of those in Europe.
In the month of August, when our summer may be said to
be at an end, hot westerly winds begin to blow, which quickly
parch up and destroy the vegetation. At the same time,
whirlwinds sweep over the country with tremendous veloc-
ity, driving along vast columns of sand many feet in diame-
ter and several hundred in height. At times ten or fifteen
of these columns may be seen chasing each other. The
Damaras designate them Orukumb’ombura, or rain-beggars,
& most appropriate name, as they usually occur just before
the first rains fall.
Showers, accompanied by thunder and vivid hghtning, are
not unusual in the months of September and October, but
the regular rains do not set in till December and January,
when they continue with but slight intermission till May.
In this month and June strong easterly winds prevail, which
~
218 MYTHOLOGY.
are not only disagreeable, but injurious to health. The lips
erack, and the skin feels dry and harsh. Occasionally, at
this time, tropical rains fall, but they do more harm than
good, as a sudden cold which annihilates vegetation is inva-
riably the result. In July and August the nights are the
coldest, and it is then no unusual thing to find ice half an
inch thick. Snow is of rare occurrence.
The Damaras and the Bechuanas have nearly the same
notion as to their origin. Thus the latter believe that the
founders of their nation and the animals of the country
emerged from a cave, while the former declare that they
sprung from a tree. When men and beasts first burst from
the parent tree—so runs the tradition—all was enveloped in
profound darkness. A Damara then lit a fire, which so fright-
ened the zebra, the giraffe, the gnoo, and every other beast
now found wild in the country, that they all fled from the
presence of man, while the domestic animals, such as the ox, -
the sheep,* and the dog, collected fearlessly round the blaz- .
ing brands.
The tree from which the Damaras are descended is to be
seen, they say, at a place called Omaruru. But somehow
there must be more than one parent tree, for both in going ;
and coming we met with several Omumborombongas, all of
which the natives treated with filial affection.
The chief deity of the Damaras is called Omukuru. His
abode is said to be in the far north; but it would be some-
what difficult to specify his attributes. Each tribe is sup-
posed to have its own Omukuru, to whom it ascribes all its
superstitious habits and customs, peculiarities, &c. ‘The tribe
is divided into castes or “eandas.”” Thus there are Ovakue-
yuba, those of the sun, or related to the sun, and Ovakue-
nombura, those related to the rain, &c., each of which has
* Some Damaras attribute the origin of the sheep to a large stone.
+ The grain of this tree is so very close, and the wood so exceed-
ingly weighty, that we gave it the name of the “iron tree.”
RELIGION—WITCHCRA FT—SUPERSTITIONS. 219
its peculiar rites and superstitions. ‘These, moreover, are
derived from the mother, and not from the father. If aman
of the Ovakueyuba marries a woman of the Ovakuenombura,
their offspring adopt the notions, &c., peculiar to the latter,
and vice-versd. They can not account for this division of
castes; they merely say it is derived from the ‘ wind.”
Some religious notions, no doubt, lie at the bottom of this.
Though the Damaras do not profess absolutely to believe
in a life hereafter, they have a confused notion of a future
state. Thus they not unfrequently bring provisions to the
grave of a deceased friend or relation, requesting him to eat
and make merry. In return, they invoke his blessing, and
pray for success against their enemies, an abundance of cattle,
numerous wives, and prosperity in their undertakings.
The spirits of deceased persons are believed to appear after
death, but are then seldom seen in their natural form. They
usually assume on such occasions the shape of a dog, having,
not unfrequently, the foot of an ostrich, Any individual
to whom such an apparition (Otjruru) might appear, es-
pecially if it should follow and accost him, is supposed to die
soon after.
The Damaras have great faith in witchcraft. Individuals
versed in the black art are called Omundu-Onganga, or
Omundu-Ondyai, and are much sought after. Any person
falling sick is immediately attended by one of these impostors,
whose panacea is to besmear the mouth and the forehead of
the patient with the ordure of the hyena, which is supposed
to possess particularly healing virtues. The sorcerer, more-
over, makes signs and conjurations.
Some very singular superstitions about meat exist among
the Damaras. Thus a man will perhaps not eat the flesh of
an ox which may happen to be marked with black, white, or
red spots. Others refuse to partake of a sheep should it
have no horns; while some would not touch the meat of
draft-oxen, according to the rule of the “eanda” to whicl:
220 SUPERSTITION.
he belongs. If meat is offered a Damara, he will accept it ;
but, before he ventures to eat it, he carefully inquires about
the color of the animal, whether it had horns, &c.; and
should it prove forbidden food, he will in all probability
leave it untouched, even though he might be dying of hunger.
Some even carry their scruples so far as to avoid coming in
contact with vessels in which such food has been cooked;
nay, even the smoke of the fire by which it is prepared is
considered injurious. Hence the religious superstitions of
these people often expose them to no small amount of incon-
venience and suffering.
The fat of particular animals is supposed to possess certain
virtues, and is carefully collected and kept in vessels of a
peculiar kind. A small portion of this is given in solution,
with water, to persons who return safely to their homes after
a lengthened absence at the cattle-posts. The chief also
makes use of it as an unguent for his body.
When an ox accidentally dies at a chief's werft, his daugh-
ter (the offspring, probably, of his favorite or chief wife) ties
a double knot on her leather apron. Should this be neglected,
a ‘* curse” is believed to be the consequence. She also places
a piece of wood on the back of the dead animal, praying at
the same time for long life, plenty of cattle, &e. This wom-
an is called Ondangere, and is to the Damaras what the
vestal was among the ancient Romans; for, besides attending
to the sacrifices, it is her duty to keep up the “holy fire”
(Omurangere).
Outside the chief’s hut, where he is accustomed to sit in
the daytime, a fire is always kept burning; but, in case of
rain or bad weather, it is transferred to the hut of the priest-
ess, who, should it be deemed advisable to change the site of
the village, precedes the oxen with a portion of this conse- —
crated fire, every possible care being taken to prevent it from |
being extinguished. Should, however, this calamity happen, :
the whole tribe is immediately assembled, and large expiator a “4
SUPERSTITION. 221
offerings of cattle are made, after which the fire is relit in
the primitive way, namely, by friction. This again reminds
us of the “ holy fire” of the Romans, which, under similar cir-
cumstances, could only be relit by fire from heaven.
A portion of such fire is also given to the head man of a
kraal when about to remove from that of the chief. The
duties of a vestal then devolve on the daughter of the emi-
grant.
For every wild animal that a young man destroys, his fa-
ther makes four small oblong incisions on the front of the
son’s body as marks of honor and distinction. He is, more-
over, presented with a sheep or cow. If either of these should
produce young ones, they are slaughtered and eaten, but only
males are allowed to partake of such food.
The chief of a kraal must always taste the provisions be-
fore they can be eaten by the rest of the tribe. Thougli
sweet milk, when boiled, may be freely drunk by the women
and children, it is more commonly swallowed in an acid
state.
Should a sportsman return from a successful hunt, he takes
water in his mouth, and ejects it three times over his feet, as
also in the fire of his own hearth,
When cattle are required merely for food, they are suffo-
cated ; but if for sacrifices, they are speared to death. On
the decease of one of the tribe, they have also the cruel prac-
tice of destroying the poor beasts with clubs, which I believe
to be a kind of expiatory offering. The flesh of such cattle
as are killed on the death of a chief is principally consumed
by his servants.
The women marry at very much the same age as those in
Europe, but few ceremonies are connected with this import-
affair. A girl is sometimes betrothed to a man when
d, though, under such circumstances, she remains
1er parents till of proper age. The woman, upon be-
co}
220 POLYGAMY—SINGULAR CUSTOMS.
kept in readiness for such occasions, and for a certain time
hides her face by means of a piece of thin, soft skin attached
to the front of the “ casque,” which she can raise or let fall
in much the same manner as a curtain.
Polygamy is practiced to a great extent, and, as has been
said elsewhere, women are bargained for like merchandise,
the price varying according to the circumstances of the hus-
band. Yet, though a man may have as many wives as he
likes, I never knew one to have more than twenty !—a pretty
good supply, however, it must be admitted.
The favorite wife always takes precedence of the rest, and,
if she should have a son, he succeeds to his father’s posses-
sions and authority.
Each wife builds for herself a hut of a semicircular form,
the walls of which consist of boughs, sticks, &c., the whole
being plastered over.
Twins are not uncommon with the Damaras. Children are,
generally speaking, easily reared. During infancy, sheep’s
milk constitutes their chief diet. Their heads are more or
less deprived of hair; the boys are shaved, but the crown of
the head of the girls is left untouched. Even grown-up fe-
males follow this custom. To the hair thus left they attach
—not very unlike the Ovambo—thin strings, made from
some fibrous substance.
All males are circumcised, but no particular period of life
is prescribed for this operation, which usually takes place
when any event of national interest occurs.
Children are named after great public incidents; but, as
they grow up, should any circumstance arise of still greater
importance to the community, they are renamed, retaining,
however, the original appellation; and, since there may be
no limit to remarkable transactions, it follows that an indi-
vidual may have more names than any Spanish hidalgo can
boast.
Between the age of fifteen and twenty, both sexes chip a
BURYING THE DEAD. 223
wedge-shaped piece of the two centre teeth in the upper jaw,
and at a later period they extract entirely from the lower
two or three teeth. The first operation is usually performed
by means of a piece of iron, a flint, or simply a stone.
The Damaras bury their dead. Immediately after disso-
lution, the back bone of the corpse is broken with a stone,”
and it is then bent together with the chin resting on the
knees. Afterward it is wrapped in ox-hides, and deposited
in a hole in the ground dug for the purpose, care being taken
to place the face toward the north. This is done, they say,
to remind them (the natives) whence they originally came.
The Bechuana mode of disposing of the dead is very similar.
Upon the death of one of the tribe, the whole population
of the place assemble to deplore the event. The howlings
and lamentations on such occasions are most discordant and
dreadful. Tears are considered favorable signs, and the more
plentifully they fall on the corpse the better. Two months
is the usual period for a son to mourn his father, but the
time is modified according to circumstances. The wealthier
the deceased, the greater the outward signs of sorrow
kind of feeling which, at any rate, bears some approximation
to that of civilized life. During the season of mourning, the
mourner wears a dark-colored skin cap, conically shaped on
the top, with certain ornaments affixed to it. Round the
neck is suspended a “‘riem,” to the two extremities of which
is attached a small piece of ostrich egg-shell. In case of
the death of a valued friend, the adults will occasionally
shave the head completely, and keep it in that state for years.
When a woman in reduced circumstances dies and leaves
a child, it is not unfrequently buried alive with its mother.
Mr. Rath was once fortunate enough to be the means of
ra
* T am told that this is not unfrequently done before life is quite
extinct! It is moreover affirmed, that when the sick man begins to
breathe hard a skin is immediately thrown over his face, which, no
doubt, often causes premature death.
224 DAMARA GRAVE,
saving a child that was about to be destroyed in this barbar-
ous manner.
After having consigned the remains of a chief to his last
resting-place, they collect his arms, war-dress, &¢c., and sus-
pend them to a pole or to a tree at the head of the grave.
DAMARA GRAVE.
The horns of such oxen as have been killed in commemora-
tion of the occasion are hung up in like manner—a custom
also found among the natives of Madagascar. The tomb
consists of a large heap of stones, surrounded by an inclosure
of thorn bushes, no doubt to prevent hyznas and other car-_
nivorous animals from extracting the corpse. Sometimes,
DEATH OF A CHIEF—CUSTOMS. 225
however, the chief, should he have expressed a wish to that
effect, instead of being buried, is placed in a reclining posi-
tion on a slightly raised platform in the centre of his own
hut, which, in such a case, is surrounded by stout and stron:
palisadings.
When a chief feels his dissolution approaching, he calls his
sons to the bedside, and gives them his benediction, which
consists solely in wishing them an abundance of the good
things of this world.
The eldest son of the chief’s favorite wife succeeds his fa-
ther; and as soon as the obsequies are over, he quits the
desolate spot, remaining absent for years. At last, however,
he returns, and immediately proceeds to his parent’s grave,
where he kneels down, and, in a whispering voice, tells the
deceased that he is there with his family, and the cattle that —
he gave him. He then prays for long life, also that his herds
may thrive and multiply; and, in short, that he may obtain
all those things that are dear to a savage. This duty being
performed, he constructs a kraal on the identical spot where
once the ancestral camp stood; even the huts and the fire-
places are placed as much as possible in their former position.
The chief’s own hut is always upon the east side of the in-
closure.
The flesh of the first animal slaughtered here is cooked in
a particular vessel, and, when ready, the chief hands a por-
tion of it to every one present. An image, consisting of two
pieces of wood,* supposed to represent the household deity, or
rather the deified parent, is then produced, and moistened in
the platter of each individual. The chief then takes the im-
age, and after affixing a piece of meat to the upper end of it,
he plants it in the ground on the identical spot where his
parent was accustomed to sacrifice. The first pail of milk
produced from the cattle is also taken to the grave, a small
* Each caste has a particular tree or shrub consecrated to it. Of
‘this shrub, a couple of twigs or sticks represent the deceased.
K 2
226 MALADIES—CRUELTY.
quantity is poured on the ground, and a blessing asked on the
vemainder.
Fever and ophthalmia (eye-sickness) are the prevailing
maladies. ‘The symptoms in fever are headache, pains in
the neck and bowels, general weakness, and ague. It makes
its appearance about April and May, or when the periodical
rains have ceased. Ophthalmia, on the other hand, begins to
show itself in September and October, but reaches its maxi-
mum when the cold season sets in. The first sensation ex-
perienced is as if the pupil of the eye was too large. A gath-
ering of water in the sides and under the eyelids then ensues.
In a short time this fluid becomes scaldingly hot, and, if not
quickly and carefully removed, the pain will be intense. The
sight is sometimes completely destroyed by this malady. In-
deed, one not unfrequently meets with people either totally
blind or minus one eye. Europeans are as liable to these
inflictions as the natives. I speak from experience, having
myself been a severe sufferer from fever and ophthalmia.
Comparatively few old people are to be met with in Da-
mara-land, for which several reasons may be assigned, such
as their cruel civil broils, and their want of compassion for
aged and disabled individuals. At times, indeed, they would
seem to do all they can to hasten the death of such sufferers.
Some instances of this atrocity have come to my knowledge:
one of the most shocking occurred at Barmen.
Finding that a certain poor woman, being nearly blind,
was unable to provide for herself, Mr. Hahn took compassion
on the helpless creature, and gave her a small quantity of
provision almost daily. The brother, finding he could not
obtain the same boon, grew jealous of the preference shown
to his sister, and secretly resolved to killher. This he effect-
ed by taking her to a spot destitute of water, under the pre-
text that they were to dig roots, where she was left to her
fate. A boy who accompanied them asserted that, on the
unnatural brother returning to the place some days after-
FOOD—MUSIC AND DANCING—CUSTOMS. 227
ward, and finding his sister still lingering, he beat her about
the head with his knob-stick until life was extinct.
Milk- is the staple food of the Damaras. They eat or
drink it out of one and the same dish without its being clean-
ed otherwise than occasionally by the tongues of dogs. The
“people have a notion that if they wash their “ bamboos”
(pails) the cows would cease to give milk.
With the exception of the spoils of the chase, they destroy
but few animals for food. Indeed, unless it be on the occa-
sion of a marriage, a birth, a nie or a circumcision, cattle
are rarely killed.
The Damaras are very fond of music and dancing. The
only musical instrument known among them is the bow (a
kind of temporary rude Jews’-harp), from which they con-
trive to extract a sort of wild melody. By this instrument
the performer endeavors (and frequently with much success)
to imitate, musically, the motion peculiar to different ani-
mals; for example, the awkward gallop of the giraffe, the
quick trot of the zebra, and the lively caperings of the beau-
tiful springbok.
The dance consists mostly of mimic representations of the
actions of oxen and sheep. ‘The dancers accompany their
gesticulations by monotonous tunes, and keep time by clap-
ping their hands and striking the ground with their feet.
As with the Ovambo, the Eastern custom of taking off the
sandals before entering a stranger’s house is observed.
The Damaras swear “by the tears of their mothers.”
This is most touching and beautiful: it elevates the oath to
heaven.
Generally speaking, a chief has but nominal power over
his subjects. On an attempt to punish heavy offenses, the
guilty individual often coolly decamps with his cattle, and
takes refuge with another tribe. In minor matters, howev-
er, from superstitious customs and old habits, the chief is
more or less obeyed.
228 ~~ SLAVES—NUMERALS—DOMESTIC ANIMALS.
The Damaras are idle creatures. What is not done by
the women is left to the slaves, who are either descendants
of impoverished members of their own tribe (is not this an-
other approach to civilization 7) or captured Bushmen. The
former are seized upon when children, and mostly employed
as herdsmen. |
The Damaras have numerals up to a hundred; notwith-
standing which, they are sorely puzzled should the sum ex-
ceed the number of fingers. They count like bad poets, who
settle their metre by their digits. It is a most amusing
sight to witness a group trying to reckon a dozen head of
cattle.
Though they give names to many of the heavenly bodies,
they have a very absurd conception of their character, rota-
tory motion, and so forth. Thus many imagine that: the
sun which sets at night is different from that which rises in
the morning. Like the children who wondered what was
done with the old moons, perhaps these savages are equally
perplexed to ascertain what becomes of the o/d suns.
The domestic animals indigenous to the country are oxen,
sheep, and dogs. The latter greatly resemble those men-
tioned as existing among the. Namaquas, but, be it said to
the honor of the Damaras, they take much more care of these
associates and companions of man than their southern neigh-
bors. Indeed, I have known them to pay as much as two
fine oxen for a dog.
Of the Damara cattle I shall have occasion to speak here-
after. The sheep are (or rather were) plentiful, and the
mutton is by no means bad. ‘Though somewhat spare-look-
ing, they furnish good joints when cut up. Skin and offal
included, they not unfrequently weigh 100 pounds, and some-
times as much as 110 to 120 pounds. They have large tails,
like those of the Cape Colony, but they do not arrive at such
a formidable size. ‘They have no wool, but a kind of short,
glossy hair, lying close to the skin, covers the body. The
DISEASES OF CATTLE—‘‘ BLOOD-SICKNESS.”’ 229
greatest peculiarity of these animals is their color, which is
of every hue and tint.
Cattle are subject to several diseases. ‘The most common
and dangerous is that which affects the throat, and which
invariably proves fatal. Cataracts on the eye, frequently
followed by blindness and swelling of the feet, are also very
common ailments.
Sheep often die from the blood conglomerating in divers
places under the skin, which is called the “ blood-sickness.”
It is even asserted that man is affected by this disease (some-
times from partaking of the flesh of the infected animal), and
that the only thing to save him under such circumstances is
instantly to cut away the parts affected.
CHAPTER XIX.
Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town.—Depart from Barmen.—Eik-
hams.—Eyebrecht.—Depart from Eikhams.—Elephant Fountain.—
Tunobis.—Enormous quantities of Game.—Shooting by Night at
the ‘‘ Skarm.’”-—The Author has several narrow Escapes.—Checked
in attempt to reach the Ngami.—The Party set out on their Return.
—Reach Elephant Fountain.—How to make Soap.—Pitfalls.—A
night Adventure.—Game scarce.—Join Hans.—The Party nearly
poisoned.—Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—A tub Adventure.—Extraor-
dinary Mortality among the Fish.—Author narrowly escapes Drown-
ing.—Arrival of the Missionary Vessel.—Letters from Home.—Mr.
Galton returns to Europe.—Reflections.
Tue vessel which brought the missionary stores to Walfisch
Bay every second year was expected in December, and by
this opportunity we hoped to be able to return to Europe,
or at least to the Cape. In order, however, to insure a pas-
sage, Mr. Galton dispatched a messenger to his banker in
Cape-Town to make the needful arrangements. In the
mean time, as we had still several months on our hands,
Galton resolved to employ the interval in making an excur-
230 LEAVE BARMEN—EIKHAMS.
sion to the eastward, partly with the view of penetrating to
the Lake Ngami, our original object, and partly to become
better acquainted with Great Namaqua-land and its semi-
civilized inhabitants. Moreover, the prospect of good sport
with the larger game, which every one said we were sure to
meet with in abundance, was a further inducement to under-
take the journey.
It was arranged that Hans should proceed to Walfisch
Bay with one of the vehicles to fetch the remainder of the
stores, &c., while Galton and myself, with the other wagon,
prosecuted our journey to the eastward. A rendezvous hav-
ing been appointed where Hans was to meet us, we left Bar-
men in the afternoon of the 12th of August. In about three
days we reached Eikhams, the residence, as already said, of
Jonker Afrikaner; where my friend, before finally leaving
the country, was anxious to settle certain disputes between
the native tribes.
Eikhams is very prettily situated on the slope of a hill,
bare at the summit, but at its base adorned with very fine -
groups of mimosas, among which a tributary to the Swakop
winds its course. It was the only spot in South Africa
where I ever saw any thing resembling a twilight. This
was produced from the reflection of the setting sun on the
peaks of the picturesque mountain ranges by which it is al-
most entirely surrounded.
Eikhams is abundantly supplied with water from three or
four copious springs, and the site of these springs being ele-
vated, the land in the lower ground is easily irrigated. The
natives construct gardens, wherein they grow many sorts of
vegetables, some of which arrive at perfection. The soil is
exceedingly fertile, and seems well suited to the cultivation
of tobacco. ‘Taking it as a whole, Kikhams is the prettiest
place I ever saw either in Damara-land or Namaqua-land.
About twenty minutes’ walk from Eikhams is a bountiful
hot spring. The water, just where it gushes out from the
JONKER SHOWS OFF TO ADVANTAGE. 231
limestone rock, has a temperature of 194 degrees of Fahren-
heit. Mr. Hahn informed me that here, on one occasion, he
boiled a piece of meat, and that, though not quite so good
as when dressed in the ordinary manner, it was not unpal-
atable.
EKikhams, as already said, was formerly a Rhenish mis-
sionary station. It was founded so far back as 1843 by the
Rey. C. H. Hahn, resident at New Barmen in Damara-land.
After a time, however, it was given up to the Wesleyan So-
ciety, which sent Mr. Haddy to reside there. This gentle-
man erected an excellent dwelling-house and a most sub-
stantial church. For a while the mission flourished, but
was latterly abandoned, and the station is now rapidly fall-
ing into decay. This, I am sorry to say, has been the fate
of many other institutions of a similar nature in Southern
Africa.
Among other gifts, Mr. Galton presented Jonker with a
splendid cocked hat and richly-gilt uniform: a court dress,
* in fact, that had once probably adorned the person of some
great man when paying his respects to majesty, and with
which the African chief expressed himself highly gratified.
Being desirous of obtaining a likeness of so famous a per-
sonage as Afrikaner, I requested him one day to put on this
costume and allow me to take his portrait. He good-na-
turedly consented to my solicitation, and on the following
morning appeared duly appareled. We rather expected to
have a laugh at him, since his gait and figure were some-
what unprepossessing ; but we were disappointed. He march-
ed up to his seat with as much ease and dignity as if he were
familiar with the usage of courts.
During our stay at Eikhams we became acquainted with
a Mr. Eyebrecht, formerly in the missionary employ, but now
Jonker’s right-hand man. In addition to excellent English
and Dutch, he spoke the Namaqua and the Damara tongues
rather fluently. As he was well acquainted with the coun-
232 PORTRAIT OF JONKER—DELAY.
JONKER AFRIKANER,
try, Mr. Galton secured his services for our tour to the east-
ward, and he proved of the greatest assistance.
On arriving at Eikhams Mr. Galton imagined that his busi-
ness with Jonker would soon be arranged; but in this part
of the world expedition is not the order of the day, and we
were therefore so long delayed as to prevent our departure
until the 30th of August.
In the course of our journey we encountered a great num-
ber and variety of wild animals, and consequently our larder
was well supplied. Indeed, in a few hours, on a certain
night, I bagged no less than three hartebeests, two pallahs,
and five zebras, and, had I felt inclined, might have shot
ELEPHANT FOUNTAIN—REACH TUNOBIS. Ie
double this number. We also
observed a few wild boars.
After a fortnight’s harass-
ing travel we arrived at Ele-
“ \. phant Fountain, formerly a
~ Wesleyan missionary station.
It was founded in 1847 by the
lates years Ake ees isl in
consequence of a destructive
WILD BOAR’S HEAD.
fever, which carried off many
of the natives. Even the few Europeans settled there suf-
fered severely. It was situated within the territory of the
chief Amral, who was born and bred in the Cape Colony,
and, if I am not misinformed, was raised to his present dig-
nity partly through missionary influence.
Elephant Fountain is chiefly inhabited by Hill-Damaras,
who cultivate extensive gardens of tobacco, &ec. Game was
‘abundant thereabout, but we had not then time to look aft-
er it.
From Elephant Fountain eastward the country was rep-
resented as very sandy and bushy, and, as our oxen were in
a very indifferent condition, we determined to leave the wag-
on behind in charge of John Mortar, the cook, and to pros-
ecute our journey with pack-and-ride oxen. Amral, with a
great number of the tribe, expressed a wish to accompany
us, chiefly for the sake of the anticipated sport. As we trav-
eled on we were joined by Lambert, his son, and other Na-
maquas, with their attendants, till at last our party amount-
ed to several hundred individuals.
After no little inconvenience and misery, on account of the
great heat, the terrible drought, and scarcity of pasturage
about the few and widely -separated watering - places, we
reached Tunobis, or Otjombinde, on the 3d of October. Ac-
cording to Mr. Galton’s observations, this place is situated in
latitude 21° 55’ and 21° 55’ east longitude.
234 ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NGAMI ABANDONED.
The Bushmen who inhabited these parts declared that the
country between here and the Ngami was then impassable,
and that any attempt on our part to reach it would be cer-
tain destruction to ourselves and cattle. Though we did not
altogether credit their story, we felt that, under the circum-
stances, it would have been highly imprudent to proceed far-
ther.
From a rough calculation, we concluded that we could not
be above nine or ten days’ journey from the lake, and it was,
therefore, with no little reluctance that we gave up the at-
tempt. However, it was all for the best, and we ought, in-
deed, to be grateful to the natives for their truthful informa-
tion. From after experience, I am quite confident that, had
we tried to push on that year, nothing could have saved us
and our beasts of burden from perishing from thirst. After
leaving Tunobis, we should not have met with water for at
least three days and a half of actual travel, besides the nec-
essary delays. To perform this, even with fresh animals,
would perhaps have been a thing unheard-of in these re-
gions, but the difficulty was magnified by the state of our
cattle, which were now reduced to skeletons. Indeed, even
before reaching Tunobis, some of them had been left behind
from sheer exhaustion.
I must confess that, on first reading my friend’s narrative,
I was somewhat startled on coming upon his pleasant asser-
tion that he did not much care about reaching Lake Ngami.
It is true that, when landing at Walfisch Bay, we had but
little hope of arriving there; but, at least for my own part,
I had always conceived the great goal of our journey to be
precisely the Ngami. Moreover, with regard to his supposi-
tion that the country hence toward the lake was compara-
tively open and free from bushes, and that, consequently, a
road to it could be traced without the slightest difficulty, I
can only say that shortly after leaving Tunobis—not to men-
tion the scarcity of water—the bush becomes so dense, and
ENORMOUS QUANTITIES OF GAME. 235
the thorns so tormenting, that I found it necessary to make
immense détours, and even then all our clothes, pack-sad-
dles, &c., were literally torn to ribbons.
The few days that we remained at Tunobis were spent
profitably and pleasantly. Besides much interesting infor-
mation of the country, derived from the Bushmen, part of
which has since been substantiated, we had abundant shoot-
ing. From the absence of water within a distance of two
or three days’ journey of the place, the number of animals
that nightly congregated here to quench their thirst was
truly astonishing.
To give the reader an idea of the immense quantity of
game hereabouts, I may mention that, in the course of the
few days we remained at Tunobis, our party shot, among
other animals, upward of thirty rhinoceroses. One night,
indeed, when quite alone, I killed, in the space of five hours
(independently of other game), no less than eight of those
beasts, among which were three distinct species; and it is
my belief that if I had persevered I might have destroyed
double the number.* But I never took delight in useless
slaughter. In our case, and I think I may say in all cases
where I have been concerned in killing a great number of
wild beasts, not a pound of flesh was ever wasted, for what
we did not require for our own use was devoured by the
natives.
As another evidence of the enormous quantity of game in
this region, I may state that the fountain in question, which
was & copious one—nay, apparently inexhaustible—was al-
most nightly drunk dry.
On several occasions I had narrow escapes from being
gored by the horns of these ugly monsters. ‘Thus one an-
* When we thus shot at night, we generally ensconced ourselves
in a ‘‘skarm,” that is, a small circular inclosure six or eight feet in
diameter, the walls (usually consisting of loose stones) being about two
feet in height.
236 NARROW ESCAPES—MORTIFICATION.
imal, on receiving a mortal wound, charged me with such
fury as to carry completely away the fore part of my “ skiirm,”
and I only saved my life by throwing myself with great force
against the opposite wall, which fortunately gave way.
At another time I was walking leisurely up to a huge
female white rhinoceros, that Mr. Galton had killed during
the preceding night, when all at once its calf, about the size
of an ox, rushed upon me from behind the carcass. Its
movements were so rapid that I had neither time to get out
of its way nor to level mysgun; but passing the barrel, like
a stick, against its chest, I fired, and, as luck would have it,
the ball caused the calf to swerve on one side and take it-
self off. A short time afterward, and at no great distance
from our encampment, it was found dead.
Being tired of shooting, and having got all the informa-
tion we could from the Bushmen, we bent our steps home-
ward. Our failure in not reaching the Lake Ngami deeply
mortified me. Night and day I was haunted by the thought.
Taking every thing into consideration, I could not help think-
ing that, under more favorable circumstances, success would
crown my endeavors, were I determined to renew the at-
tempt. Accordingly, I made up my mind first to see my
friend safe from the African shore, and then to return as soon
as the rains had fallen.
I communicated my resolve to Mr. Galton, who at once
fully entered into my views; and as I had neither oxen nor
wagons, he kindly promised to supply me with both, as also
with such articles of barter as his own reduced stores af-
forded.
After nearly a month’s absence, we found ourselves safe
at Elephant Fountain. Notwithstanding we had been al-
most solely living on fresh meat during this time, we had
only used the one half of a small copper-cap box* of salt! I
* A copper-cap box, for the information of my female readers, is
about the size of a pill-box.
BREAD NOT NECESSARY—SOAP-MAKING—PITFALLS. 237
mention the circumstance to show that salt is not strictly
necessary to man’s existence. Moreover, excepting once or
twice at the missionary table, we had not tasted bread for
months. I had so totally forgotten the use of it, that, after
our return to Barmen, on being entertained at Mr. Hahn’s
house, I finished my meal without noticing the piece of bread
which was conspicuous enough alongside my plate. Our men
erumbled a little at first at being deprived of bread, but they
also soon got accustomed to do without it, nor did the least
inconvenience arise from its absence. I have always heard
that the want of bread and vegetables is the greatest hard-
ship a man can experience. Be that as it may, the human
system—as the above facts demonstrate—is capable of recon-
ciling itself to nearly all conditions and circumstances.
The men left in charge of the wagon were well, but poor
John Mortar, the cook, looked pale and thin. On asking
him the cause, he pointed to the fire where our food was
cooked, and, with something like an oath, exclaimed, “ Sir,
elook at that pot! I have been watching it these seven-and-
twenty days and nights, and, after all, I find that my labor
is thrown away !”
Shortly after leaving Elephant Fountain, John, it ‘seems,
had set about making soap, of which our supply was exhaust-
ed. Through some mistake, however, he used unslaked lime
instead of the alkali obtained in the country from the ash of
the native soap-bush. This at once accounted for his failure
in regard to the article itself, and his own emaciated appear-
ance.
Game, as has been said, was very abundant near to Ele-
phant Fountain, and, by means of spacious pitfalls, great
numbers of wild animals were almost nightly captured. The
whole.ground in the neighborhood of Zwart Nosop, which
flowed past the place, was literally a succession of pitfalls,
and they were so cleverly arranged and well concealed that
it required the utmost caution in walking about. Even peo-
238 A NIGHT ADVENTURE—SOLITUDE.
ple thoroughly acquainted with the locality ran great risk of
being precipitated into these dangerous traps.
Lions were numerous and very daring. From time to
time, several of Amral’s people, while lying in ambush for
game at night, had been either carried off or fearfully man-
gled by these beasts. Finding that I was somewhat incau-
tious, the chief expressed the greatest apprehensions for my
safety, more especially as I was usually quite alone.
On one of these occasions I must confess to having felt
rather uncomfortable. I had posted myself in a dense mimosa
brake, commanding the approach to the Zwart Nosop River
at a point much frequented by wild animals, and flanked by
an immense pitfall. The darkness was deepened by sur-
rounding thick foliage and high river banks. Indeed, so
black was the night that I could not discern even the muzzle
of my gun. The gloominess of my solitude was increased by
the occasional “ Qua-qua!”’ of the night-heron, which made
the succeeding hush more dreary, during which even the
falling of leaves and rustling of insects among dry grass was
hailed as a relief to the oppressive dumbness. To a man in
a savage wilderness, and without a companion, silence, espe-
cially when combined with utter privation of light, is inex-
pressibly solemn. It strikes the mind not merely as a ne-
gation, but as a threatening presence. It seems ominous.
I shall never forget the loneliness and sense of desolation I
felt on this occasion. It was past midnight, and still no game
appeared.
Suddenly I fancied I heard the purr and breathing of an
animal close behind me; but as no other. indications of any
living thing ensued, I attributed the sounds to a heated im-
agination. All at once, however, the dismal stillness was
disturbed by the quick steps of a troop of pallahs descending
the stony slope leading direct to my ambush. Stooping as
low as possible, in order to catch their outline, I waited their
arrival with my gun on full cock. Nearer and nearer they
A NIGHT ADVENTURE—“ SIR, THE LION.” 239
came, till at last I fancied the leader was on the verge of the
pitfall; but just at that moment there was a low, stifled
erowl, a rush, and then a faint cry, as of some dying animal.
All was again silent. Though the impenetrable darkness
prevented me from seeing any thing, I could no longer doubt
that I was in the immediate vicinity of a lion. I freely ac-
knowledge that I felt awed, well knowing that, were he to
attack me, I should be completely at his mercy. My situa-
tion was critical in the extreme. Straining eyes and ears to
discover the beast’s whereabout, I held my breath in fearful
suspense, while every nerve was strung to the highest pitch.
Presently I heard, to my astonishment, the report of a gun
within fifty paces of my hiding-place; then a second and a
third shot. This made matters worse; for I now became ap-
prehensive that the men, not aware of my presence, might
direct their fire toward me. I therefore sprang to my feet,
and vociferated, “Who's there?” ‘Sir! the lion—the lion!”
replied Eyebrecht, for it was no other. The next instant he
stood trembling before me. He had, it appeared, been sent
by Amral to call me back, but had encountered the beast in
his path, and fired, in order to frighten him away.
Though I did not exactly comply with the wishes of the
chief, I deemed it advisable, after what had passed, to re-
move to a more open place, where I was less likely to be
taken by surprise. Early next morning a number of Hot-
tentots came to examine the ground, when, as I had expect-
ed, we found the footprints of a lion at the very back of my
“‘skirm,” and scarcely distant the length of the gun-barrel
from my own person, where he had evidently been crouching
previously to leaping on the pallah (whose cry I had heard in
the night), but which, though wounded, had effected its escape.
How far the beast intended me mischief is hard to say, but,
in any case, my position had not been an enviable one.
On our return journey to Barmen it rained heavily, and in
some places the landscape looked quite revived. Many mi-
240 POWER OF ANIMALS TO SCENT HERBAGE,
eratory birds, such as the swallow, the cuckoo, and others,
had again made their appearance.
The animals, which during the dry season are compelled
to gather round the springs and other permanent waters, were
enabled, by the late rains, to scatter themselves over a large
extent of country, and were now difficult to find. There can
be little doubt that the instinctive power of animals—domes-
ticated as well as wild—is capable of catching the scent of
humid winds and green herbage at a very great distance.
Thus I have often seen oxen turn their heads toward the
quarter where distant lightning indicated that rain had fall-
en, and sniff with evident pleasure the breeze produced by
colder air. Mr: Moffat, the missionary, mentions an instance
where a great number of cattle were entirely lost, solely, as
he supposes, from this cause.
‘‘ Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqua-land,”
says the reverend gentleman, “ Afrikaner thus lost the great-
er part of his cattle. One evening a strong wind commenced
blowing from the north; it smelt of green grass, as the na-
tives expressed it. The cattle, not being in folds, started off
after dark. ‘The circumstance being unprecedented, it was
supposed they had merely wandered out to the common,
where they were accustomed to graze; but it was found, aft-
er much search, that some thousands of cattle had directed
their course to the north. A few were recovered, but the
majority escaped to the Damara country, after having been
pursued hundreds of miles.’’
For my own part, I have frequently passed through local-
ities abounding with game, and, repassing them in a short
time, I have found them deserted without any apparent cause;
as I proceeded, however, I have discovered them in quite dif-
ferent quarters, and ascertained that the attraction has been
the young grass, which was either produced by the moisture
of the atmosphere, or from the natives having fired the old
grass. The rapidity with which parched and sun-burnt pas-
AN ADVENTURE—PASTURAGE SCARCE. 241
turages in tropical climes are converted by any of these
causes into luxuriant savannas is incredible, and can only be
duly estimated by those who have themselves witnessed such
changes. !
A stage on this side of Eikhams we encountered Hans,
who had met with a little adventure in the neighborhood of
Scheppman’s Mountain, where he had one day unyoked. He
had been out in search of game, when on his return he was
astonished to observe a number of natives rushing toward
the wagon, no doubt with the intention of plundering it, and
probably of spearing the men who had itin charge. On see-
ing Hans approach with a gun, however, they all took to
their heels; but some were captured, and, after they had un-
dergone a sound drubbing, and been threatened with death
should they ever attempt a similar outrage, they were allow-
ed to depart. Not many hours elapsed before these very
savages returned to beg for tobacco!
We were sorry to find that our cattle looked thin and mis-
erable. Indeed, Hans had experienced the greatest difficulty
in bringing on the wagon. Restored tranquillity had given
confidence to the Damaras, who were now flocking in great
numbers with their cattle to the banks of the Swakop, the
result of which was that every blade of grass was consumed
for miles around both sides of the river. This was indeed
sad news, as our route lay precisely through these parts, and
our draft animals were by this time in a distressingly ex-
hausted and reduced state. It required some efforts on our
part to overcome these difficulties, and we lost no time in re-
tracing our steps. After Mr. Galton had disposed of some
of the superfluous goods to the natives, and exchanged the
run-away mules to Jonker for cattle, we bade farewell to the
hospitable hearth of the missionaries at Barmen and Richter-
feldt, and proceeded quickly on our road to Walfisch Bay.
On arriving at the confluence of the Swakop and the Tjo-
bis Rivers, we had a narrow escape from being poisoned, as
L
242 NARROW ESCAPE—VISITORS——A ‘‘ SELL.”
the Hill-Damaras had mixed the juice of the ewphorbia can-
delabrum with the stagnant pool-water for the purpose of
killing buffaloes, which were numerous hereabout. Fortu-
nately, by having gone in advance of our party, in the hope
of obtaining a shot at these animals, I discovered the poison-
‘ed water (easily detected by its peculiar clay color) in time
to prevent any serious mischief. Some of the dogs partook
of it, but, having previously taken their fill of clear, pure wa-
ter, they escaped with a heavy vomiting. At this identical
place Hans had a short time previously found several dead
and dying buffaloes that had been poisoned.
The symptoms with men, after imbibing the poison in
question—not the least of the many dangers to which the
African traveler is almost daily exposed—are generally a full-
ness of the system, quick pulsation, giddiness, and a violent
** flesh-quake.”
Though our cattle suffered dreadfully from want of pastur-
age, we reached Walfisch Bay on the 5th of December with-
out the loss of a single ox.
The missionary vessel had not yet arrived, but there were
two others, a brig anda bark. ‘The master of the first was
an Englishman, in search of guano, as also of nitrate of soda,
which was reported to exist on this coast. He imagined that
he had really found the latter valuable salt, and whispered
his discovery to us as a great secret. On examining the spec-
imens in his possession, however, it was found to be noth-
ing more nor less than pieces of common soap! part, prob-
ably, of the cargo of some wrecked vessel. The action of the
water had so altered the soap in appearance that the mistake
was really excusable. On learning from us the real nature
of his supposed prize, the poor captain, as may be imagined,
evinced no little chagrin and disappointment.
The second ship was an American, in search of the sperm
whale, which is not unfrequently found in these waters. Our
shabby and tattered garments and unshaved faces induced
A TUB ADVENTURE. 243
the captain to regard us at first with suspicion, taking us not
improbably for outlaws, unfit for other society than savage
men and beasts. By degrees, however, his mind, as to our
proper character, was set at rest, and we were hospitably
entertained on board his ship, which was scrupulously clean
and orderly.
The crews of many of the whaling and guano ships who
were in the habit of frequenting Walfisch Bay had behaved
very outrageously, either by plundering, or wantonly destroy-
ing the contents of the temporary store-house. On one oc-
casion they had been amusingly baffled in their dishonest and
disreputable practices. At the time of which I am now
speaking, the store was tenanted by Mr. Dickson, the trader,
who possessed some very fine lion cubs. These a certain cap-
tain determined to purloin, and, for that purpose, sent a
number of his men in the dead of the night to carry them
away. ‘The animals were usually kept in a large tub or bar-
rel; but it so happened that, on the very evening the master
_had fixed on for the execution of his plan, they had been re-
moved elsewhere, and that Mr. Bassingweight, one of Mr.
Dickson’s employes, had taken up his abode in their old quar-
ters. The sailors entered the building unperceived, and be-
gan rapidly to roll the tub away. Mr. Bassingweight at first
imagined he was dreaming ; but, as the motion became more
violent, the thumping of his head against the wooden walls
soon brought him to his senses, on which he roared out most
lustily. ‘The unexpected and strange noise so terrified the
sailors that they made a precipitate retreat.
The next morning, the captain, having previously had the
audacity to possess himself of one of Mr. Dickson’s horses,
came riding, very drunk, to his house, and in an imperious
and impudent tone demanded the cubs to be given up to him.
At the same time, he thrust an immense dagger through a dish
of pancakes which a servant was busy preparing. Mr. Dick-
son was not at home; but his wife, who was a shrewd and
244 A FIGHT.
determined woman, not only refused compliance, but com-
manded the fellow instantly to dismount and go about his
business. On his hesitating, she unceremoniously pulled him
off the horse, and threatened to knock him down if he did
not immediately leave the house. J earing, however, that he
might return with his crew during the night to revenge him-
self, and, perhaps, take forcible possession of the young lions,
she ordered Bassingweight and another of her servants (hav-
ing previously primed them with cordials to raise their spirits
and courage) to proceed at dusk toward the Bay to watch
the enemy’s movements. Mrs. Dickson’s surmise proved cor-
rect ; for the men had not gone far before they distinguished
the clamorous voices of a number of persons who were rapid-
ly approaching them. Squatting behind some sand-hillocks,
they allowed the marauders to come within range, when they
fired a shot over their heads, which had the desired effect.
Without waiting for further hostility, Jack instantly bolted.
Elated by their easy success, Bassingweight and his compan-
ion instantly gave chase, and on coming up with the fugitives,
a terrible pele-méle fight ensued. Notwithstanding one of the
men was almost a giant in strength and stature, the odds
were too great, and they were on the point of being overpow-
ered. At this critical moment Bassingweight called loudly
for assistance, hoping that some of the natives, who occasion-
ally slept on the beach, might come to the rescue. ‘To their
inexpressible relief, up rose from among a number of empty
barrels, which happened to be ranged along the shore, a Bush-
man. His appearance acted like magic, and instantly turned
the cards in their favor; for the sailors, as it was afterward
ascertained, imagining the casks to be savages also, and dread-
ing probably their poisoned arrows, were seized with a panic,
and fled precipitately in every direction, some rushing up to
their necks in water, while others actually fell on their knees
begging forgiveness! Unless for the Bushman, Bassingweight
assured me that himself and companion must have been in-
evitably killed.
-
«.
EXTRAORDINARY SPECTACLE—NARROW ESCAPE. 245
The bay presented at this time a most extraordinary spec-
tacle, the whole being covered with one mass of dead fish.
We could only account for so unusual a sight by supposing
that an epidemic had occurred among them, more especially
as it did not appear to be confined to one or two species of
the finny tribe, but to all which are indigenous to the coast,
the gigantic shark not excepted. In some of the more shel-
tered spots the fish lay so deep that I remember on one occa-
sion to have had some difficulty in forcing my way through
in a small Mackintosh punt.
As may well be expected, the effluvium arising from such
a mass of decomposed matter was offensive and sickening.
Whether all the fish died, or the stench drove the survivors
away, | am unable to decide; but certain it is that hardly a
fish was left in the Bay. On our first arrival we captured
large quantities by means of a small seine-net, but now all
our attempts proved futile.
An incident occurred to me one day which might have
been attended with fatal consequences. A cutter had lately
arrived from the Cape, the object of the captain being to har-
poon the “humpback” whale, which at this season of the
year abounds in the vicinity of Walfisch Bay. I had paid a
visit to the craft in the punt mentioned. On my return it
came on to blow hard from the land. In calm weather the
punt could be managed with great ease; but, on account of
her flat bottom and light construction, it was impossible to
make head against a stiff breeze. When within a stone’s
‘throw of the shore she became unmanageable, and for the
space of fully one hour all my efforts to propel her were un-
availing. At last, finding my strength failing, I made one
more desperate effort, and, having fortunately succeeded in
getting her into shallow water, I leaped over the side and
ultimately brought her to a place of safety. My arms were
quite paralyzed, and for a while I was unable to lift them
from my sides. Had the struggle lasted another minute, noth-
246 ARRIVAL OF THE MISSIONARY VESSEL—BAD NEWS.
ing could have saved me from being blown out into the open
sea, and as there was a gale of wind at the time, there can
be no doubt as to the result.
On the 31st of December, being then at Scheppmansdorf,
{ received intelligence that the long-expected missionary ves-
sel had arrived, and that she was to sail in a few days for
St. Helena. On the following morning, the first day of the
year 1852, a parcel of European letters was handed to me.
It was now fully twenty months since I had heard any news
of my friends, and I hailed this token of their interest in my
behalf with rapture. But alas! although I had much to be
thankful for, the intelligence was damped by the unexpected
tidings of the death of a younger brother. Poor fellow!
notwithstanding he and I could never agree during life, I
loved him dearly. His last words, uttered in delirium, were
said to have been addressed to me, imploring me to come to
his assistance. He died at Rio Janeiro of that scourge, the
yellow fever. Peace be to his memory! The cholera was
also raging in Sweden, and I trembled for the news that might
next reach me.
I proceeded immediately to Walfisch Bay to bid farewell!
to Galton. John Williams, John Mortar, and Timbo were
to accompany him to St. Helena, whence they were to be
forwarded to Cape-Town. Hans—in himself a host—John
Allen, and John St. Helena, agreed to remain with me.
My specimens of natural history, which had been collected
with much care and trouble, and which had cost me many a
sleepless night, I consigned to Galton’s care. They consisted
of about five hundred bird-skins, nearly double that number
of insects, and a few odds and ends. I also took this oppor-
tunity to forward several letters to my European friends.
Galton appeared delighted with the prospect of soon re-
turning to civilized life. Though he had proved himself to
be capable of enduring hardships and fatigue as well as any
of us, it was evident that he had had enough of it.
GALTON ARRIVES SAFE—GOLD MEDAL. 247
The schooner was to have sailed on the 5th of January ;
but, in consequence of the arrival of ‘The Grecian” man-of-
war, then cruising off the West Coast, it was postponed till
the next day. As the schooner gradually disappeared from
view, I began to feel in full force the loneliness of my situa-
tion, and the loss of my friend’s company. It would seem
that, the farther the object of our esteem and regard is sepa-
rated from us, the better we are able to appreciate its value.
Galton’s excellent disposition and even temper had enabled
us to struggle through all difficulties very happily together,
and it was, therefore, with sincere regret that I parted from
him. I whispered a prayer for his safe return to the bosom
of his family. It was heard; for, though the passage proved
of long duration, he reached England in safety, after an ab-
sence of two years.
Not long subsequently to his return, the Royal Geograph-
ical Society, I was happy to learn, bestowed upon him their
gold medal as a reward for his services in the cause of sci-
ence.
CHAPTER XxX.
Capture of young Ostriches.—Natural History of the Ostrich; where
found; Description of; Size; Weight; Age; Voice; Strength;
Speed; Food; Water; Breeding; Incubation; Cunning; Stones
found in Eggs; Chicks; Flesh.—Brain in request among the Ro-
mans.—Eggs highly prized.—Uses of Egg-shells.—Feathers an ar-
ticle of Commerce.—Ostrich Parasols.—The Bird’s destructive Pro-
pensities. — Habits. —Resembles Quadrupeds. — Domestication.—
The Chase.—Snares.—Ingenious Device.—Enemies of the Ostrich.
OsTRIcHEs are at all times more or less numerous on the
Naarip Plain, but more particularly so at this season, on ac-
count of the naras (of which mention was made in the second
chapter) being now ripe.
While waiting for the missionary vessel, previously to the
248 OSTRICHES—MAN@UVRES OF THE OLD BIRD.
departure of Mr. Galton, I made several trips between the
Bay and Scheppmansdorf, in order to arrange matters for my
intended journey to the Ngami. On one of these occasions
I was accompanied by my friend. When we had proceeded
little more than half the distance, and in a part of the plain
entirely destitute of vegetation, we discovered a male and fe-
male ostrich, with a brood of young ones about the size of
ordinary barn-door fowls. This was a sight we had long
been looking for, as Galton had been requested by Professor
Owen to procure a few craniums of the young of this bird,
in order to settle certain anatomical questions. According-
ly, we forthwith dismounted from our oxen and gave chase,
which proved of no ordinary interest.
The moment the parent birds became aware of our inten-
tion, they set off at full speed, the female leading the way,
the young following in her wake, and the cock, though at
some little distance, bringing up the rear of the family party.
It was very touching to observe the anxiety the old birds
evinced for the safety of their progeny. Finding that we
were quickly gaining upon them, the male at once slackened
his pace, and diverged somewhat from his course; but, see-
ing that we were not to be diverted from our purpose, he
again increased his speed, and, with wings drooping so as al-
most to touch the ground, he hovered round us, now in wide
circles, and then decreasing the circumference till he came
almost within pistol-shot, when he abruptly threw himself on
the ground, and struggled desperately to regain his legs, as it
appeared, like a bird that has been badly wounded. Having
previously fired at him, I really thought he was disabled, and
made quickly toward him. But this was only a ruse on his
part; for, on my nearer approach, he slowly rose and began
to run in an opposite direction to that of the female, who by
this time was considerably ahead with her charge.
After about an hour’s severe chase, we secured nine of the
brood; and, though it consisted of about double that number,
249
COURSING YOUNG OSTRICHES.
co
URSING YOUNG
L 2
250 THE OSTRICH—WHERE FOUND—SIZE AND WEIGHT.
we found it necessary to be contented with what we had
bagged.*
On returning to the Bay, however, the next morning in a
mule-cart, Mr. Galton again encountered the same birds with
the remainder of the family, and, after a short race, cap-
tured six more of the chicks.
The ostrich (which, from possessing the rudiments of a
gall-bladder, and the absence of wings fit for flight, seems to
form a kind of connecting link between the two great fam-
ilies of mammalia and aves) is an inhabitant of a large portion
of Africa, but rarely extends farther east than the deserts of
Arabia. Throughout the Indian Archipelago, the family of
birds (of which the ostrich is the leading type) is represented
by the cassowary; in Australia by the emeu; in the south-
ern extremity of the western hemisphere by the rhea; and
even in Europe, though somewhat departing from the type,
it has its representative in the stately bustard.
Any thing like a scientific description of the ostrich would
here be out of place; but it may be proper to mention that
the lower part of the neck and the body of the mature male
bird are of a deep glossy black, intermingled with a few
whitish feathers, only visible when the plumage is ruffled.
‘‘In the female the general color of the feathers is of a gray-
ish or ashy brown, slightly fringed with white. In both sexes
the large plumes of the wings and tail are beautifully white.”
The ostrich, when full grown, stands no less than from
seven to eight feet, and instances are recorded where indi-
vidual birds have attained as much as nine. Its weight is
proportionate. Judging from what I have experienced in
carrying the dead body, it is not less, perhaps, than two or
three hundred pounds. Indeed, there are persons who be-
lieve that the mature bird, when in prime condition, as a
butcher would say, will attain a weight of thirty stone.
* The wood-cut on the preceding page is a faithful representation
of the chase described, which took place shortly before sunset.
AGE—CRY—STRENGTH—SPEED—FOOD. 25!
I could never obtain any data that would enable me to
form a correct estimate of the age of the ostrich, but it may
fairly be concluded that he lives between twenty and thirty
years.
The cry of the ostrich so greatly resembles that of a lion
as occasionally to deceive even the natives. It is usually
heard early in the morning, and at times also at night.
The strength of the ostrich is enormous. .; polygamy
Daviep, arrival at, 52; much frequented
by lions, 7b.
Dogs, miserable plight of the Namaqua,
278. s
Duikers, the (cormorants and shags),
mode in which they obtain their foed,
E.
Eggs, the, of the ostrich, 60; of the
Guinea-fowl, 92, 136.
Eikhams, the residence of Jonker Afri-
kaner, 130; twilight at, 230; abundant-
ly supplied with water, 7b. ; hot spring
in the neighborhood of, 7b. ; history of
the mission at, 231; terrific thunder-
storm at, 27.
Elands, spirited chase after, 366.
Elephants, tracks of, 143; breed near to
Omuvereoom, 158; combat between
rhinoceros and, 164; unsuccessful hunt
of, 170; Hans and Phillippus kill one,
175; the Author shoots a large pbull-
elephant, 391; a midnight meeting with
a troop of, 594: adventure with a herd
of female elephants at Kobis, 400; a
midnight spectacle of a magnificent
troop of, 405.
Elephant Fountain, arrival at, 233; for-
merly a Wesleyan missionary station,
ib.; chiefly inhabited by Hill-Dama-
ras, 7b.; nature of the country east-
ward of, 7b.; return to, 236; abundance
of game in its neighborhood, 237.
Elephant Kloof, the Author shoots a
magnificent giraffe at, 357.
Erongo, a mountain famous for its pe-
culiar formation, and as a stronghold
of the Hill-Damaras, 114; about three
thousand feet in height above the level
of the plain, 120.
Etosha, a sterile plain, 156; at times in-
undated, 7b.
Euphorbia Candelabrum, use made of its
poison by the Ovaherero and the Hill-
Damaras, 91; fatal to the white rhino-
ceros, but harmless to the black species,
ib.; abundant at Okamabuti, 176.
Eyebrecht, Mr., Jonker’s right-hand man,
231.
F
Fever, the Author attacked by, 390.
Fig-tree, a gigantic one near Otjironjuba
fountain, 156.
GENERAL INDEX.
Fire, the Author nearly destroyed by,
1
85.
‘‘ Piscaal,"’ the, curious belief of the Cape
people "respecting, 78.
Fish, 182.
Fly, "wasp-like, 57; the Author severely
stung by one, 7b.
Flying-Fish, the, a schooner, 338.
Foam, the, a small schooner chartered by
Mr. Galton for the voyage to Walfisch
Bay, 28, 29.
Fowl ‘domestic, 201, 482.
G.
Gabriel, his violent disposition, 79; dis-
missed at Barmen, 125; marks his sub-
sequent career with violence and inso-
lence, 140.
Galton, Mr., starts for the Erongo Mount-
ain, 114; obtains information from
Jonker, 139; departs for England, 247.
Gemsbok, the, first sight of, 57; death of
one, 125; the Damaras feast on it, 124;
description of, 275.
Geological characteristics of Great Na-
maqua-land, 513.
Ghanzé, arrival at, 367; description of,
868; departure from, 386.
Giraffe, the, one killed, 59; their marrow
good eating, 7b. ; troop of, 92; peculiar
motion of, 93; troop of, 154; a splen-
did one pulled down by lions, 396.
Giraffe-thorn, the, 42.
Gnoo, a, chase after and death of, 113;
ae them in company with lions,
Grain, kind of, grown among the Ovam-
bo, 188; the storing of, 201.
Griquas, the Author meets with a party
of, 547; one of them engaged as inter-
preter, ib. ; information derived from,
429, 430; severe losses sustained by a|
party of, 469.
Grosbeak, the social, 104.
Guinea-fowls, an immense number at
Onanis, 92; the flesh of the young ten-
der and well flavored, ib.; the best
mode of shooting them, 7b. ; ’ their eggs
excellent, 136.
Guitar, 193.
H.
Hahn, Mr., a missionary of the Rhenish
Society, settled among the Damaras,
56; a Russian by birth, 108; his mis-
sionary labors, 109; his coadjutors, 7b. ;
his fruitless efforts to bring about a rec-
onciliation between the Damaras and
the Namaquas, 127.
Hans (Larsen), 68; a fine specimen of the
true Northman, 69; his great strength,
ib. ; an indefatigable sportsman, 70;
enters Mr. Galton’s service, 7b. ; his
character for being a good woodsman
damaged, 154; meets with a little ad-
venture, 241; enters into partnership
with the Author, 265; goes into Dama-
ra-land to trade with the natives, 269;
3015
has an adventure with the Damaras,
7b. ; emigrates to Australia, 334.
Hare, the Namaqua superstition respect-
ing, 317.
Hareld, the (Arctic duck), mode in which
it obtains its food, 32.
Heat, effects of excessive, 51, 101.
Heitjeebib, a deity worshiped by the Na-
maquas, 316.
Hill-Damaras, the, 60; a kraal of, at Ona-
nis, 89; cultivate dacka or hemp as a
substitute for tobacco, 7b. ; unusual
manner in which they smoke, ib. ; de-
scription of the pipe they use, 89, 90;
a kraal of, at the foot of Omuvereoom,
157; probably the aborigines of Dama-
ra-land, 215
Hippopotamus, the, the actions and figure
of, mimicked by a Damara, 159; visits
Omanbondé, 163; one takes up his
abode at Schmelen’s Hope, 7b. ; abound
on the northern side of Lake Ngami,
434; its supposed identity with the Be-
hemoth of Scripture, 487; where found,
ib. ; two species in Africa, 488 ; descrip-
tion of, ib. ; its food, 490; ravages
caused by, ib. 3 possessed of a good
memory, 492; nocturnal excursions,
493; easily domesticated, 7b. ; kept in
captivity by the ancient Romans, 7D. ;
details respecting those in the Zoolog-
ical Society’s Gardens in the Regent’s
Park, London, 494; its most valuable
parts, ib. ; manner in which the Bayeye
harpoon, 495; drawings on the monu-
ments and sculptures of Thebes relat-
ing to the chase of, 499; the Author's
safety jeopardized by one, 502; in-
stances of the ferocity of, 503; various
devices for destroying, 504,
History of Damara-land, 215.
‘Hogs, found among the Ovambo, 189.
|Honey, wild, poisonous, 91.
Horse, the Cape Colony, 326; instance of
the extr aordinary endurance of, 327.
Horse-sickness, the, 67; three mules and
one horse perish ‘of, ib. ; ; its cause un-
known, 7D. ; usually makes its appear-
ance in the months of November and
December, 68; common throughout va-
rious parts of Southern Africa, 68.
Hottentots, a small kraal of, 39; Fred-
erick, their chieftain, and the alarum,
ib. ; of Great Namaqua-land, 314.
Hountop River, the, Author’s.party en-
camps near, 301; game abundant in
the neighborhood of, 7b. ; an interest-
ing atmospheric phenomenon at, 302.
Houses, the Ovambo, 201; the Damara,
222; the Namaqua, 315; the Bayeye,
479.
Hyena, the, 123; called wolf by the col-
onists, 151 ; mode of setting spring-
guns for, 132; startling appearance o
a spotted, 369.
1
Ta Kabaka, the, a mountain, 144, 155,
516
Ice, 209, 300.
Implements of husbandry, 58, 104, 202.
Ivory, 202.
GENERAL
J.
Jackal, a mischievous, 364.
Jonker Afrikaner, 108, 112; a letter from,
125; his quarrel with Kahichené, 127;
an instance of his cruelty, 129; Mr.
Galton sets out to visit, 130; relations
between him and William Zwartbooi,
158; sends an express to Zwartbooi for
his horses, 7b. ; promises to live in
peace and amity with the Damaras, 70. ;
his first victories over the Damaras,
216; whence he came, 7b.; gifts pre-)
sented by Mr. Galton to, 231; the Au-
thor takes his portrait, ib.; loses the
greater part of his cattle, 240; his werft
in the neighborhood of Eikhams, 278;
engaged in a Cattle-lifting foray, 287 ;)
the Author upbraids him for his depre-
dations, 289; his defense, 7b.
Justice, summary, 149.
K.
Kachamaha, a powerful Damara chief,
287; the Author’s visit to, 7b.
Kahichené, a Damara chieftain, 122; im-
mense number of oxen and sheep pos-
sessed by, 7b. ; his quarrel with Jonker
Afrikaner, 127; meets the Author's
party at Kotjiamkombe, 147; his ap-
pearance and manners, 7b. ; at variance
with a tribe of Damaras under the rule
of Omugunde, 149; his summary treat-
ment of thieves, 7b.; his kraal, 2b. ; his
death, 152.
Kaiaob, the Namaqua witch-doctor, 318.
Kamapyu, a half-caste native lad, 344.
Kameel-doorn, the, 104; hardness of its
wood, ib.; the social grosbeak con-
structs its nest in the branches of, 7b. ;
groups of, 163.
ie Zaal, engaged as a wagon-driver,
4,
Kleinschmidt, Mr., 139, 286.
Kobis, good shooting at, 398; adventure
with a black rhinoceros there, 399;
with a white one, 400; and with a herd
of female elephants, 7b. ; departure
from, 412.
Kolbé, Mr., 109, 127, 138.
poe eee a Rhenish missionary station,
325.
Konyati, the, a mountain, 143.
Koodoo, the, a young one caught and
reared, 130; its tragic end, 131; de-
scription of, 465; the Bushmen’s man-
ner of hunting, 467.
Kotjiamkombé, a splendid vley, 146.
Kuisip, the, a periodical stream, 41; swol-
len by heavy rains, 264.
L.
Lambert, eldest son of Amral, a Namaqua
chief, 355.
Larsen (vide Hans).
INDEX.
Larve, locust, sudden appearance of at
Schmelen’s Hope, 140; conjecture re-
specting, 7b. ; devoured by storks, 7b.
Leché, the, a species of antelope, 431; the
Author shoots one, 458.
Lecholétébé, chief of the Batoanas, the
Author sends presents to, 393; Timbo's
interview with, 402; the Author visits, .
418; his manner of receiving presents,
420; his greediness, 421; his prompt
mode of punishing his subjects, 422.
Leopard, the, erroneously called tiger by
the Dutch, 133; one seizes and wounds
: favorite dog, 134; pursued and slain,
34.
Libébé, the capital of the Bavicko, situ-
ated considerably to the north of Lake
Ngami, 422; the Author determines to
visit, 423; the centre of a great inland
trade, 484; visited by the Mambari, 7b.
Lightning, a man killed by, 108.
Lion, the, a daring and destructive one
slain by Messrs. Galton and Bam, 41;
a horse and mule killed by lions, 53;
panic caused by a troop of lions, 66, 67;
two met with on the banks of the Swa-
kop, 93; narrow escape from, 7b. ; mid-
night interview with a, 97; one de-)
prived of his prey, 98; one mistaken
for a zebra, 112; one kills a goat, 114;
pursued and slain, 118; the travelers
serenaded by a whole troop of, 123;
Mr. Galton confronted by one, 164;
stalking antelopes in company with,
210; very numerous and daring in the
neighborhood of Zwart Nosop, 238; ad-
venture with one at night, 7b. ; story of
the seizure of lion cubs, 243; troops of
them in the neighborhood of Tincas
and Onanis, 267; a lion devours a lion-
ess, 302; a fair shot at one, 342; Old
Piet’s adventures with, 343; one finds
his way into the church at Richterfeldt,
344; instances of their boldness, 350;
unexpected meeting with five, 396; se-
rious night adventure with one, 508.
Locust, the, larve of, 281; immense
masses of, ib.; their arrival a cause of
rejoicing to the Bushmen, 283; how
prepared as food, 284.
Locust-bird, the (Spring-haan vogel), 284.
Louis, a Mozambique liberated slave, 337.
M
Mackintosh punt, 160.
Malays, the, religion and mode of life of,
24, 2b.
Mambari, the, an African tribe, 484.
Matsanyana, the, an African tribe resid-
ing north of the Bayeye, 484.
Mimosa, the black-stemmed, found in the
periodical water-courses, 90.
Mirage, a remarkable, 33, 303.
Missionaries, their exertions unavailing
in Namaqua-land, 42; the natives very
reserved on their first appearance in
Damara-land, 109; prospect of their
success at Schmelen's Hope disappoint-
GENERAL INDEX,
ed, 127; arrival of the missionary ship,
246; decline of the mission at Reho-
both, 286; the Rhenish missionary sta-
tion at Bethany, 304; blamed by the
Bahurusti rain-maker as the cause of a
severe drought, 447.
Monoohoo, a species of rhinoceros, 372.
Mortar, John, irritability his only fault,
80; a famous teller of stories, 81; his
disappointment in the matter of soap
manufacture, 237.
Mosheshe, the famous Basuto king, 438.
Mukuru-Mukovanja, a large river, 204;
the Ovambos’ account of, 430.
Mules, the, one becomes exhausted and
is left behind, 51; shortly afterward
killed by lions, 53; the travelers lay in
a stock of mules’ flesh, 54; the flesh of,
“not unpalatable, 56; worn out, 61;
three killed by sickness, 67; escape,
and are intercepted at Barmen, 130;
“ again make off, and are not retaken, id.
Mummies, 182.
Mushrooms, grow on the sides of the
nests of the termites, 137.
NG
Naarip, the, a sterile plain, 48, 51; trav-
elers often lose their way on, 74; the
Author's party suffers much from cold
on, 76; affords a good road, 84; its
pleasant appearance after rains, 266.
Naitjo, an Ovambo man, 188.
4
517
Europeans respecting, 423; different
names by which it is known among the
natives, 424; description of, ib.; Mr.
Green's description of, 425; its shores,
ib. ; must have undergone very consid-
erable changes at different periods,
426; the Author navigates, ib. ; fed by
the River Teoge, 427; finds an outlet
at its eastern extremity in the Zouga,
428; a great variety of animals found
in its neighborhood, 431; hippopotami
abound on the northern side of, 434;
swarms with crocodiles, 435; snakes
numerous on the shores, 435, 436; fish,
436; departure from, 507.
Nosop, the river, 353.
O
Obesity equivalent to high treason among
certain African tribes, 191.
vip oe a branch of the Hottentot race,
4,
Okamabuti, the residence of the Damara
chief Tjopopa, 168; the northern limit
. of Damara-land, 169; rank vegetation
at, 176.
Omanbondé, Lake, Mr. Galton hears of,
111; surmises respecting its extent,
158; Mr. Galton’s party makes prep-
aration for spending some time on its
shores, 160; arrival at, 161; its insig-
nificance ib. ; visited by hippopotami,
ib.; departure from, 166.
Nakong, the, a species of antelope, 431;;|Omatako, 141; its beautiful appearance,
description of, 431-433.
ib.; the river of, 143.
Namaqua-land, Great, description of,;Ombotodthu, a mountain, 149; remarka-
312; in a geological point of view, 315.
Namaquas, the, their character, 42, 43;
their astonishment at the first wagons
they saw, 43; treat the Damaras very
cruelly, 127; usually very barbarous,
129; their respect for truth-tellers, 290;
best mode of behaving toward, 7b. ;
names of the chiefs of the Northern,
315; their habitations, 7b. ; their relig-
ious ideas, 516; their superstitions with
regard to the hare, 317; have great
faith in sorcery, 318; their neglect of
widows, and cruel treatment of old and
disabled persons, 322; their custom of
adopting fathers and mothers, 7b. ; per-
sonal adornment, 325; excessively idle,
7b. ; understand the art of distilling
Spirits, 324; attack Richterfeldt, 339;
ill-treat the missionaries, 7b.
Nangoro, king of the Ovambo, 165; as-
sists a Damara chief, 169; a messenger
sent to, 186; interview with, 191; his
personal appearance, 7b.; his wives,
Naras, the, a delicious fruit, 27; its ben-
eficial qualities, 38; where found, 7b.
Ngami, the Lake, preparations for nav-
igating, 22; failure of Mr. Galton and
the Author to reach it, 234; the Au-
thor resolves to make another attempt,
236; first appearance of, 416; arrival
at, 417; first information received by
ble for its peculiar red stone, 150.
Ommutenna, a tributary to the Swakop,
61, 114.
Omoroanga Vavarra, the, a branch of the
Teoge, 479.
Omugundé, the chief of a tribe of Dama-
ras, 147; slays several of Kahichené’s
children, and keeps the others prison-
ers, 148.
Omukuru, the chief deity of the Dama-
ras, 218. .
Omumborombonga, a tree, the supposed
progenitor of the Damaras, 215.
Omuramba-k’Omatako, a periodical riv-
er, 208; supposed to flow toward the
Bechuana country, 209.
Omurangere, the holy fire of the Dama-
ras, 220.
Omutjamatunda, a cattle-post belonging
to the Ovambo, 188; a copious fount-
ain, 184; ducks and grouse numerous
there, 7b.
Omuvereoom, the, a mountain, 144; dis-
tance between it and Omatako, 153;
arrival at the southern extremity of,
155; extensive view from its summit,
157.
Onanis, the residence of a kraal of very
poor Hill-Damaras, 89; fine pastur-
ages, 91; troops of lions seen at, 267.
Ondangere, the vestal virgin of the Da-
maras, 220.
518
Ondara, the, a species of serpent, 291;
story of one, 7b.
Ondonga, the country of the Ovambo,
186; arrival in, 7b.; water and pastur-
age scarce, 189: departure from, 206.
Onesimus, Zwartbooi’s henchman, joins
the Author's party, 140; is flogged,
363.
Ongeama, native name for lion, 114;
cries of, 178.
Onguirira, a species of animal resem-
bling, but totally distinct from, the
lion, 153.
Ophthalmia, the Author attacked by, 281.
Orange River, the, description of, 310.
Oranges, a feast of, Salle
Orukumb'ombura, ‘‘rain - beggars,’’ the
name given by the Damaras to col-
aioe of sand driven along by the wind,
217.
Oryx, the death of one, 123; the Dama-
ras feast on it, 124; description of, 273.
Ostrich, the, omelet of the eggs, 60; the
ege equal to twenty-four of the com-
mon fowl, 7b. ; numerous on the Naa-
rip plain, 247; chase and capture of
. part of a brood of young ones, 248; in-
teresting manceuyre of a parent ostrich,
7b.; districts in which found, 250;
types in other parts of the world, 7b. ;
general appearance, ib. ; its cry great-
ly resembles that of the lion, 261; its
marvelous speed, 7b. ; food, ib. ; power
of enduring thirst, "052 ; season for
breeding, 7b. ; period of incubation,
255; a peculiarity in regard to the eggs
of the ostrich, 254; nature of the coy-
ering of the young pir ds, 7b. ; the flesh
of the young ostrich palatable, ib.; in
estimation with the ancient Romans as
an article of food, 255; uses to which
the egg-shells are applied, 256; ostrich
feathers, 7b.; the ostrich in a wild
state, 258; its powers of digestion, 259;
resemblance to quadrupeds, 7b. ; modes
in which it is captured, 262.
Oswell, Mr., his chase of a rhinoceros,
382.
Otjihako-tja-Muteya, 186; sufferings from
cold on, 207.
Otjikango, the, name of a series of wells,
2S GO:
Otjikoto fountain, 180; a wonderful freak
of nature, 181; its remarkable cavern,
ib. ; visited by a great number of doves,
182; Bushmen reside near to it, 7b.
Otjironjuba Fountain, 156; departure
from, 158.
Otjombindé; 283.
Otjruru, an apparition, 219,
Otters, not uncommon in Lake Ngami,
424,
Ovaherero, the, their mode of using to-
bacco, 90; tip their arrows with the
poison of ewphorbia candelabrum, 91.
Ovambo, the, a people of Africa, 165;
- first interview with, 172;- their food,
173; arms, 174; effect of fireworks on,
GENERAL
INDEX.
192; musical instruments in use among,
193; their personal appearance, 194;
their strict honesty, 196; no pauperism
in their country, 7b.; their national
pride, 7b. ; hospitality, 197; staple food,
7b. ; morality among, 198; state of re-
ligion among, 7b. ; their dwellings, 201 ;
domestic animals, 7b.; farm imple-
ments, 202; their chief articles of ex-
port, 7b.; have some slight knowledge
of metallurgy, 203.
pyepaneet the, an African tribe, 205,
§
Oxen, invaluable in South Africa, 44;
method of breaking in, 45; one charges
Mr. Galton, 47; manner of guiding a
saddle-ox, 71; can be made to travel at
a pretty quick pace, 2b.; training for
the yoke, 77; vicious one ridden by
Mr. Schéneberg, 102; become wild and
unmanageable from their over-long
rest, 123; several stolen from Mr. Gal-
ton’s party, 148; extraordinary confu-
sion among, and the cause of it, 212;
curious custom when an ox dies at a
chief's werft in Damara-land, 220;
their instinctive power of catching the
scent of humid winds and green herb-
age at a great distance, 240; instance
of affection between two, 268; Author's
adventure with a runaway, 270; the
Author has an ugly fall from one, 288 ;
superstition that they refrain from eat-
ing on Christmas-eve, 307 ; the Damara
breed of, 7b.; the Bechuana breed of,
308; the Namaqua breed of, 324.
P.
Palm-trees. a large number seen, 166;
description of a peculiar kind of fan-
palm, 7b. ; fruit of the, ib., 188.
Parrots, crested, 5T, 59.
Pelicans, 77; curious mode of flight, ib.
Phenomenon, 143.
Phillippus, a Damara, joins the Author's
party as a wagon-driver, 140.
Pichos, the (or Parliaments), of the Bato-
anas, 437.
Pitfalls for the capture of game, 362.
Polygamy, 198, 222, 321, 448, 479.
Population of the Ov ambo country esti-
mated, 189.
Portuguese, 183.
Puff-adder, the, 294; its manner of seiz-
ing its prey, 7b.
R.
Rain-maker, the Bahurutsi, 442; murder-
ed among the Bauangketsi nation, 447.
Rains, the, begin as early as September
and October, 125.
Rath, Mr., 61, 109, 121; his description
a the track of a nondescript animal,
33.
Rehoboth, a Rhenish missionary station,
139, 281; description of, 286; the rocks
in its neighborhood strongly impreg-
nated with copper, 349.
GENERAL INDEX.
Religion, 198. :
Reptiles, numerous in Damara-land and
Namaqua-land, 293; superstitions re-
specting, 294; antidotes used in Seuth-
ern Africa for the bites of, 295.
Rhinoceros, the, curious anecdote pre-
served in the archives of Cape-Town
relating to a death of one, 26; Mr.
Bam’s story of his wonderful escape
from one, 49, 50; tracks of, 49; one
shot, 72; fall frequently on their knees
when killed,75; curious anecdote, 7b. ;
flesh not unpalatable, 7b. ; hide useful,
ib.; discovery of a, 84; adventure in
pursuit of one, 85; its escape, 86, ST;
combat between elephant and, 164;
several shot at Ghanzé, 369; where
found, 370; four distinct species known
to exist in South Africa, 371; distinc-
tions between the black and the white
rhinoceros, 373; appearance of, 374;
food, 375; breeding, 576; Colonel Will-
iams’s story respecting one, 377, 578;
conflicts with elephants, 578; the flesh|
and horns, 380; adventure with a black
rhinoceros at Kobis, 599; with a white
one, 400; the Author shoots a white
one, 407; desperate adventure with a
black one, 407, 408; method of chasing,
381; Mr. Oswell’s stories respecting the
chase of, 382.
Richterfeldt, a Rhenish missionary sta-
tion, reached, 61; water abundant, 7b. ;
soil fertile, 7b. ; when founded, 62; re-
turn to, 95; bid a final farewell to, 123.
Rifle, obtained in barter, 150; excellent
weapon, 7b.
Rights of succession, 198, 222, 225.
‘Ringel-hals, the, or ring-throat, a species
of snake, 294.
Roode Natie, the (or Red Nation), a pow-
erful tribe of Namaquas, 2793 their
character, 280; Cornelius, their chief,
ib.; their country, 281; few Damara
slayes among them, 7b.
S.
Salt-lick, a, 366.
Sand Fountain, excursion to, 34; badness
of its water, 35; its disagreeable guests,
36; its advantages, 37; general aspect
me the country in the neighborhood of,
38.
Sand-wells, 365.
Scarlet flower, the, emotions on first see-
ing, 48; observe it again, 49.
Scenery, striking, 170.
See eke; the, a species of snake,
Scheppmansdorf, Mr. Galton arrives at,
40; all the baggage safely deposited at,
519
Schmelen’s Hope, its situation, 126; ori-
gin of its name, 127; agreeable resi-
dence; abundance of game to be ob-
tained there, 135; departure from, 146;
return to, 214.
Schéneberg, Mr., 101; his mishap, 102;
his wailing, 103.
Scorpions, a swarm of, 105; their fond-
ness of warmth, 7b. ; their bite poison-
ous, but rarely fatal, 7b.
Season, the rainy, in- Ovambo-land, 201 ;
in Damara-land, 217.
Sebetoane, an African chief, false report
respecting, 414.
Serpent, tracks of an immense (the On-
dara), 290; story of a, 291.
Serpent-stones, 297.
Servants, described, 78-83; African trav-
elers can not be too particular in the
selection of, 79; become refractory, 125;
adventure of one of them with an ox,
270; Damara servants abscond, 355.
Shambok, the, 73, 74.
Shrike, a species of, 78; superstitious be-
lief respecting, 7b.
Smith, Dr. Andrew, 213, 491. -
Snake, a eurious species of, 292; several
species occasionally met with in Da-
mara-land and Namaqua-land, 294;
antidotes for the bites of, 295; numer-
ous in and about Lake Ngami, 435, 436.
Snake-stone, the, 298.
Snuff, manner in which the Bechuanas
manufacture, 458.
Spring, hot, at Barmen, 108; at Eikhams,
250; at Rehoboth, 286.
*« Spring,” Author’s ride-ox, 71.
Spuig-slang, the, or spitting-snake, 294.
St. Helena, John, officiates as head wag-
oner, 80; his extraordinary disposition,
7b. ; discourses on ghosts, 331.
Steinbok, the, a young one taken and
reared, 130; its tragic end, 131.
Stewardson, Mr., 45.
Stink-hout, a species of oak, 170.
Sugar-cane, supposed to exist in many
parts of Southern Africa, 188.
Sun-stroke, Author receives one, 58; us-
ual results of a, 7b. ; the Authorin dan-
ger of a second, S88.
Sunrise, the, in the tropics, 51; often fol-
lowed by intense heat, and sufferings
thereon, 7b. ; a mule left behind, 7b.
Superstition, a, with regard to oxen, 152.
Swakop, the, first appearance of, 49; its
cheerful aspect, 7b. ; the Author's party
attacked by two lions on the bank of,
93; the Damaras flock with their cattle
to, 241.
a
41; description of, ib-; first impres-|Table Mountain, 25; ascent by the Au-
sions of, 76; kind friends at, 77; de-
parture from, 83.
thor of, 7b.
Tans Mountain, 348.
Scheppman’s Mountain, origin of its)/Tent, the Author's, takes fire, 299.
name, 103.
Schmelen, Mr., a highly-gifted and enter-
prising missionary, 127.
Teoge, the River, feeds Lake Ngami, 427 ;
scenery along the banks of, 460; croco-
diles observed on, 471.
520
Termites, the, Schmelen’s Hope swarms
with, 136; their method of constructing
their nests, ib.; encampment in the
middle of a nest of, 145; instances of
the fearful ravages they are capable of
committing in an incredibly-short space)
of time, 155.
Textor erythorhynchus, a parasitical in-
sect-feeding bird, 215.
Thirst, suffering from, 52;
quenching thirst, 7b.
Thorn coppices, 182.
Thunder-storm, a, in the tropics, 107, 141,
352.
Tiger-wolf (or spotted hyena), 369.
Timbo, a native of Mazapa, 81; carried
into captivity by Caftres, 7b. ; sold asa
slave to the Portuguese, 82; liberated
by an English cruiser, 7b. ; his faithless)
spouse, 76.; his good "qualities, ib. ; his|
love of (native) country, 83 ; friendship
between him and George Bonfield, 336 ;
turns sulky, 252; the Author sends him
to Lake Ngami, 393; his return, 402.
Tincas, the mountain, 52; great strong-
hold and breeding-place of lions, 7b.
Tincas, the River, S4. e
Tjobis, a river and tributary to the Swa-
kop, 59
Tjobis Fountain, arrive at, 60, 93; de-
part from, 61, 93.
Tjopopa, a great chief of the Damaras,
168; reach his werft, 169; his charac-
water not)
ter, ib.; death of his mother, 176; his)
idleness and fondness for tobacco, 7b. ;
sensuality, 177; leaves Okamabuti,
207.
Tobacco, great size of leaves of, 110; the)
for, 208.
Topnaars, a branch of the Hottentot
tribe, 314.
Toucans, 59,
Trans-vaal River, the, rumors respecting
the churlish conduct of the Boers on,
27.
Traveling by day injurious, 58, 61; by
night preferable, but dangerous, 84;
difficulties of African, 160.
Trees, bearing an apple-looking fruit,
176, 189; enormous sized, 7b.
Tsetse fly, the, where chiefly found, 468 ;
description of, 469; poisonous nature
of its bite, 7b. ; result of Captain Var-
- don’s experiment on, 470; Mr. Oswell’s
examination of oxen bitten by, 471;
wild animals unaffected by the poison
of, 2b.
Tunobis, 233; days profitably and pleas-
antly passed there, 235; immense quan-
tity of game in the neighborhood of, 7b.;
the Author’s misadventure at, 360.
Twass, the head-quarters of the Namaqua
chief Lambert, 355.
U.
Usab, the, a striking gorge, we arrive at,
§3.
Ovambo cultivate it, 189; buy sheep)
' GENERAL INDEX.
Ve
‘* Venus,”’ a small half-breed dog, her
combat with a rhinoceros, 891; great
sagacity of, ib.
Voet-gangers (vide larve).
Vollmer, Mr., 139, 286.
W.
Waggoner, John, his sulkiness and reluc-
tance to work, 79; dismissed at Bar-
men, 125; his subsequent dishonest ca-
reer, 159.
Wagons, the, fifteen hundred weight a
good load for, 78; accident to, 170.
Wait-a-bit thorn, the, 156; great strength
of its prickles, ib. ; excessively trouble-
some, 367, 413, 415,
Walfisch Bay, the Author's party advised
to select this place as a starting-point
for their journey into the interior, 28;
arrival at the entrance of, 29; appear-
ance of the coast as seen from, ib.; de-
scription of, 30; trading establishments
there, 7b.; frequented by immense
numbers of water-fowl, 31: outrageous
conduct of the crews of whaling and
guano ships visiting, 245 5 extroardi-
nary number of dead fish in, 245; the
Author’s second visit to, 339.
Water, difficulty of obtaining, 306, 387.
Water-courses, the periodical, afford the
only really practicable roads, 124.
Wenzel, Abraham, 79; his thievish hab-
its, 7b. ; dismissed at Schmelen’s Hope,
140.
Whirlwinds, 217.
Williams, John, results of his careless-
ness, 30.
Willow -tree, the, in the neighborhood of
Omuvereoom, 155.
Witch-doctor, the Namaqua, 318.
Witchcraft, Damaras have great faith in,
219; the Bechuanas haye great faith
in, 449,
“Wolf,” 114.
Wolves, or hyenas, 131.
‘Women, Ovambo, 194; Damana, 221;
Bayeye, 480.
oi
Z.
Zebra, melancholy wail of the, 98; the
Author shoots one, 102; its flesh not
very palatable, 7b. ; a lion mistaken for
one, 112; the Author shoots one, 142.
Zouga, a river which flows out of Lake
Ngami, 403; runs in an easterly direc-
tion from Lake Ngami for a distance
of about three hundred miles, 428; veg-
etation along its course varied and lux-
uriant, 7b.
Zwartbooi, William, a Namaqua chief-
tain, 137; relations between Jonker
Afrikaner, and, 7b.; his territory, 168;
assists us with servants, 140.
Zwart Nosop, many pitfalls for game con-
structed in the neighborhood of, 238.
Zwart-slang, the, or black snake, 294, 295.
wane
LATIN INDEX. 521
LATIN
Acacia giraffe, 42, 104.
Aigocerus ellipsiprymnus, 451.
Amadina squamifrons, 213.
Behemot Jobi, 487.
Buphaga Africana, 212.
Canis mesomelas, 278.
Chizoerhis concolor, 59.
Colember canus, 294.
Croton, 323.
Diosma, 323.
Euphorbia candelabrum, 91, 176.
Felis caracal, 135.
Francolinus adspersus, 50.
Glossina morsitans, 468.
Gryllas deyvastator, 281.
Harelda glacialis, 52.
Hippopotamus amphibius, 488, 489.
ce Liberiencis, 488.
Holcus Caffrorum, 173.
Hyrax Capensis, 291.
Lanius subcoronatus, 78.
INDEX.
Loxia socia, 104.
Naia haje, 294.
Oryx Capensis, 272.
“” beisa, 272.
‘ leucoryx, 272.
Otis kori, 135.
Processus mamillaris, 495.
Python Natalensis, 290.
Quercus Africana, 170.
Rhinoceris bicornis, 372, 373.
be
Ce Sumatrensis, 070.
ss Indicus, 370.
ce Keitloa, 372, 376.
“S Oswellii, 372.
“eC -simus, 372, 373, 374.
re Sondaicus, 370.
Textor erythrorhynchus, 213.
Tragelaphus Angasii, 433.
Es eurycerus, 433.
Trimerorhinus rhombeatus, 294
Vipera inflata, 294.
THE END.
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