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Frontispiece.
VOL. II
29 APRIL, 1873.
ILALA.
EVENING.
be
THE LAST JOURNALS
OF
DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF
HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,
OBTAINED FROM
HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI,
By HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON.
IN TWO VOLUMES.—Voxz. IT.
WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LON DON :
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1874.
The right of Translation ts reserved.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS,
CONDE N is:
CHEAP AME Rs A,
' PAGE
Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The
Doctor is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China
fowls. Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands.
Slow recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take
letters. Thani bin Suellim. A den ofslavers. Puzzling current
in Lake Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates
visiting the Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new
explorations in Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the
Lake. Kabogo East. Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last
illness. Elephant hunter’s superstition. Dugumbé. The Lua-
laba reaches the Manyuema. Sons of Moenékuss. Sokos first
heard of. Manyuema customs. Illness. .. oe mi ud, i
CHAE fk Td,
Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbé’s ravages.
Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sick-
ness in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is
prostrated. Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness.
An elephant of three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma,
and Gardner. Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated
by outraged Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long
and dreadful suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable canni-
balism. Hears of four river sources close together. Resumé of
discoveries. Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description
of its habits. Dr. Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of
deserters es a ee as * er ee By wc)
a 2
iv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER ui
PAGE
Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. ‘A drop of com-
fort.” Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer. Conse-
quences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of
hut for first time after eighty days’ illness. Arab cure for
ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab
ivory traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward
Young’s Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious
delays. The bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar.
Exasperation of Manyuema against Arabs. The “ Sassassa bird.”
The disease “ Safura.” te °° as “5 on Pee 3 3)
CHAPT HR: -2¥.
Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials. Lion’s
fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings about Meréré.
Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest disease of
all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goitre. News
of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. ‘The parrot’s-feather
challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as servants. They
refuse to go north. Part at last with malcontents. Receives
letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan. Doubts as to the Congo
or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko. Forest scenery.
Discrimination of the Manyuema. They “want to eat a white
one.” Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore and sick
of blood. Approach Nyafigwé. Reaches the Lualaba .. sat SOD
CHAP VERVE
The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
ink. Builds a new house at Nyafigwé on the bank of the Lua-
laba. Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful
effect of slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tire-
some frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at
market. Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes.
Rapids in Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the
Lomamé. Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave’s
mistress. Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of
women by Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in
the river. Tagamoio’s assassinations. Continued slaughter
across the river. Livingstone becomes desponding “ dot
CONTENTS. v
CHARTER, Vi
PAGE
Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Man-
yuema understand Livingstone’s kindness. Zanzibar slaves.
Kasongo’s. Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots.
Ill. Attacked in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another
extraordinary escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running
the gauntlet for five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of
safety. Ill Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappoint-
ment. Recovers. Severe marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despon-
dency. Opportune arrival of Mr. Stanley. Joy and thankful-
ness of the old traveller. Determines to examine north end of
Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the Lusizé. No outlet.
“Theoretical discovery” of the real outlet. Mr. Stanley ill.
Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there. Departure for Unyan-
yembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game. Attacked by
bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness at reaching
Unyanyembé .. se oe of act LAP
CHEAP i ake Valk 3
Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits. Rob-
beries discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
Mteza’s people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Descrip-
tion of the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain.
The population of Unyamyembé. The Mirambo war. ‘Thoughts
on Sir Samuel Baker’s policy. The cat and the snake. Firm
faith. Feathered neighbours. Mistaken notion concerning
mothers. Prospects for missionaries. Halima. News of other
travellers. Chuma is married a a oe Ee reo
CELA PEE ie VEEL.
Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old friend.
Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of Mission-
ary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors. Progressive
barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern Africa.
The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable piece of
artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The Ba-
ganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower ae be .. 204
CHAP T Eh. ix.
Short years in Buganda. Boys’ playthings in Africa. Reflections.
Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
vi
CONTENTS.
’
waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepido-
sirens and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake ‘Tanganyika.
High mountains. Large Bay Br a an =
CHAPTER X.
False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse bites.
The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu. The
nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama’s town. A
difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe’s death.
The flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
Arrives at Chitufikué’s. Terrible marching. The Doctor is
borne through the flooded country .. ae or 5 Bo
CEVA a Ei esol:
Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
Obliged to return to Chituikué’s. At the chief’s mercy. Agreeably
surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march.
Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out
to find villages. Message to Chirubwé. An ant raid. Awaits
news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of
Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi
and Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Ar-
rive at Matipa’s islet. Matipa’s town. The donkey suffers in
transit. Tries to go on to Kabinga’s. Dr. Livingstone makes a
demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and
detachment sent to Kabinga’s. Extraordinary extent of flood.
Reaches Kabinga’s. An upset. Crosses the Chambezé. The
tiver Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and
water. A disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations
on fish. Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo.
Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone ..
CHUA PE abi exer
Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
and Chuma’s additional details. Great agony in his last illness.
Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill of
the Four Rivers. JKalunganjovu’s kindness. Crosses the Moh-
lamo into the district of [lala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo’s
village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last
night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account
PAGE
» 226
244
CONTENTS. vii
PAGE
of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the
men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is
dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo.
possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the main-
land may be a way of laboriously proving that it is more:
healthy than the island. It will take a long time to
prove by stone and lime that the higher lands, 200 miles
inland, are better still, both for longevity and work.* I
am in agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now
is that my friends will all wish me to complete my task.
I join in the wish now, as better than doing it in vain
afterwards.
The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the
soil, and cutting through the roots of grass and weeds, by
a horizontal motion of the hoe or knife; they leave the
roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, and dura, to
find their way into the rich soft soil, and well they succeed,
so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts:
and cassava hold their own against grass for years, and
bananas, if cleared of weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad
sowed rice just outside the camp without any advantage
being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and it yielded for
* Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the utter
necessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior, rather than on
the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers. Men may escape
death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebled and energy re--
duced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances life becomes a misery,.
and important results can hardly be looked for when one’s vitality is pre--
occupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness of the situation, day and.
night.—Ep.
1870.] UNGRATEFUL GUESTS. 69
one measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures of
increase. This season he plants along the rivulet called
“ Bondé,” and on the damp soil.
The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains
it about two feet beneath the surface: this is a cause of
unhealthiness to man. Fowls and goats have been cut off
this year in large numbers by an epidemic.
The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Man-
yuema to be a severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated,
and no leave asked: firewood, pots, baskets, and food are
used without scruple, and anything that pleases is taken
away; usually the women flee into the forest, and return to
find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay
the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain,
for they hid in the forest, and feared to come near. It
was common for old men to come forward to me with
a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with trembling
accents, “ Bolongo, Bolongo!” (“ Friendship, Friendship !”’),
and if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran
for plantains or palm-toddy. The Arabs’ men ate up what
they demanded, without one word of thanks, and turned
round to me and said, “They are bad, don’t give them
anything.” “ Why, what badness is there in giving food ?”
I replied. “Oh! they like you, but hate us.’ One man
gave me an iron ring, and all seemed inclined to be friendly,
yet they are undoubtedly bloodthirsty to other Manyuema,
and kill each other.
Tam told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid
tsetse in going to Meréré’s is to go to Mdongé, Makindé,
Zungoméro, Masapi, Irundu, Nyangoré, then turn north to
the Nyannugams, and thence to Nyémbé, and so on south to
Meréré’s, A woman chief lies in the straight way to Meréré,
but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on the
animals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds,
and is fatal as well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo
70 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IIT
and Syde bin Ali come to Nyémbé, thence to Nsama’s, cross.
Lualaba at Mpweéto’s, follow left bank of that river till they
cross the next Lualaba, and so into Lunda of Matiamyo.
Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and it shows
enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumbé will open up
the Lualaba this year, and I am hoping to enter the West
Lualaba, or Young’s River, and if possible go up to Katanga.
The Lord be my guide and helper. I feel the want of
medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men.
16th October.—Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me
that Monamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to
get a charm to kill him. “ Would the English and Kolo-
kolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed while they were
here?” I said that it was a false report, but he believes it
firmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was
slandered, but thus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise !
The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this
they have none: each headman is independent of every
other. Of industry they have no lack, and the villagers are
orderly towards each other, but they go no further. If a
man of another district ventures among them, it is at his
peril; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema
than one of a herd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is
almost sure to be killed.
Moenékuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his
eldest son went over to Monamyembo (one of his subjects)
and was there murdered by five spear wounds. The old —
chief went and asked who had slain his son. AII professed
ignorance, whilst some suggested “ perhaps the Bahombo did
it,’ so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid
it at the door of Monamdenda, from whom he got the same
reply when he arrived at his place—no one knew, and so the
old man died. This, though he was heartbroken, was called
witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were murdered,
and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with
1870.] MOENEKUSS. 71
the confession that he had killed Moenékuss’ son. This son
had some of the father’s wisdom: the others he never could
get to act like men of sense.
19th October—Bambarré. The ringleading deserters sent
Chuma to say that they were going with the people of
Mohamad (who left to-day), to the Metamba, but I said that
I had nought to say to them. They would go now to
the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so much
feared, and they think nothing of having left me to go
with only three attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces
in mud and sand, They probably meant to go back to the
women at Mamohela, who fed them in the absence of their
husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must
not follow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and
send them back if they did. They think that no punish-
ment will reach them whatever they do: they are freemen,
and need not work or do anything but beg. “English,”
they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though the
eagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed
them to be genuine niggers.
20th October—The first heavy rain of this season fell
yesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent
halt to which the Manyuema have come is not affected by
the appearance of superior men among them: they are
stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moenékuss paid
smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper
and iron, but he never could get them to imitate his own
generous and obliging deportment to others; he had to
reproye them perpetually for mean shortsightedness, and
when he died he virtually left no successor, for his sons are
both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures, without
dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is
that they came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and
thence here. The name seems to mean “forest people ”—
Manyuema.
12 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. III.
The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kan-
yingéré’s, and went N. and N.N.E. They found the coun-
try becoming more and more mountainous, till at last,
approaching Moreré, it was perpetually up and down. They
slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to
the bottom only once, it took so much time to descend
and ascend. The rivers all flowed into Kereré or Lower
Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whose water could
not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Balégga were
very unfriendly, and collected in thousands. “We come
to buy ivory,” said Hassani, “and if there is none we go
away.” “Nay,” shouted they, “you come to die here!”
and then they shot with arrows; when musket-balls
were returned they fled, and would not come to receive the
captives.
25th October—Bambarré. In this journey I have en-
deavoured to follow with unswerving fidelity the line of
duty. My course has been an even one, turning neither to
the right hand nor to the left, though my route has been
tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil were
met with the full conviction that I was right in persevering
to make a complete work of the exploration of the sources
of the Nile. Mine has been a calm, hopeful endeavour to
do the work that has been given me to do, whether I succeed
or whether I fail. The prospect of death in pursuing what
I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or the
other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three
years that I should never live through the enterprise, but
it weakened as I came near to the end of the journey,
and an eager desire to discover any evidence of the great
Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound
me, I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to
confirm the Sacred Oracles, I should not grudge one whit all
the labour expended. I have to go down the Central Lua-
laba or Webb’s Lake River, then up the Western or Young’s
1870.] THE AFRICAN PASSPORT. 73
Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray
that it may be to my native home.
Syde bin Habib, Dugumbé, Juma Merikano, Abdullah
Masendi are coming in with 700 muskets, and an immense
store of beads, copper, &e. They will cross Lualaba and
trade west of it: I wait for them because they may have
letters for me.
28th October.—Moenemokata, who has travelled further
than most Arabs, said to me, “If a man goes with a good-
natured, civil tongue, he may pass through the worst people
in Africa unharmed :” this is true, but time also is required :
one must not run through a country, but give the people
time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fears
subside.
29th October.—The Manyuema buy their wives from each
other; a pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought
home to-day; she came jauntily with but one attendant,
and her husband walking behind. They stop five days,
then go back and remain other five days at home: then the
husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have
perfect forms and limbs.
31st October.—Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister
of Moenékuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyingeré
might be attacked by Mohamad’s people: no fault has he,
“but he is bad.” Monangoi, the chief here, offered two tusks
to effect the same thing; on refusal, he sends the tusks
to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him.
“He is bad,” is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime
this chief here caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from
Moene-mokia’s, and sold him or her to Moene-mokia for
thirty spears and some knives; when asked about this
captive, he said, “She died:” it was simply theft, but he
does not consider himself bad.
2nd November, 1870.—The plain without trees that flanks
the Lualaba on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely
74 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. (Cuap. III.
peopled, and the inhabitants are all civil and friendly.
From fifty to sixty large canoes come over from the left
bank daily to hold markets ; these people too “are good,” but
the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are treacherous
and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body
is easily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware
of it.
I long with intense desire to move on and finish my
work, I have also an excessive wish to find anything that
may exist proving the visit of the great Moses and the
ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just what
pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will
in all things.
I received information about Mr. Young’s search trip
up the Shiré and Nyassa only in February 1870, and now
take the first opportunity of offering hearty thanks in a
despatch to Her Majesty’s Government, and all concerned
in kindly inquiring after my fate.
Musa and his companions were fair average specimens
for heartlessness and falsehood of the lower classes of Mo-
hamadans in East Africa. When we were on the Shiré we
used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night, in
order to let the air which was put in motion by the water,
pass from end to end. Musa’s brother-in-law stepped into
the water one morning, in order to swim off for a boat, and”
was seized by a crocodile, the poor fellow held up his hand
imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed him to perish.
On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa replied, “ Well,
no one tell him go in there.” When at Senna a slave
woman was seized by a crocodile: four Makololo rushed in
unbidden, and rescued her, though they knew nothing about
her: from long intercourse with both Johanna men and
Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races.
Those of mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and
the virtues of neither.
1870.] THE JOHANNA MEN. TS
A gentleman of superior abilities* has devoted life and
fortune to elevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are
“an unimprovable race.”
The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than
any stranger, cannot entrust any branch of his revenue
to even the better class of his subjects, but places all his
customs, income, and money affairs, in the hands of Banians
from India, and his father did before him.
When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked
“why their sovereign places all his pecuniary affairs and
fortune in the hands of aliens?” they frankly avow that if
he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, he would receive
nothing but a crop of lies. .
Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dis-
honesty : Speke’s followers deserted at the first approach of
danger. Musa fled in terror on hearing a false report from a
half-caste Arab about the Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though
I promised to go due west, and not turn to the north till
far past the beat of that tribe. The few liberated slaves
with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan
slaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close
contact with Moslems again. A black Arab was released
from a twelve years’ bondage by Casembe, through my own
influence and that of the Sultan’s letter: we travelled
together for a time, and he sold the favours of his female
slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew
were stolen from me. He received my four deserters, and
when I had gone off to Lake Bangweolo with only four
attendants, the rest wished to follow, but he dissuaded them
by saying that I had gone into a country where there was
war: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with
these liberated slaves, but judged by the East African
Moslem standard, as he ought to be, and not by ours, he is
* Mr. John Sunley, of Pomoné, Johanna, an island in the Comoro
group.
76 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. (Cap. IIT.
a very good man, and I did not think it prudent to come
to a rupture with the old blackguard.
“Taba” means in the Manyuema dialect “medicine ;” a
charm, “boganga:” this would make Lualaba mean the
tiver of Medicine or charms. Hassani thought that it
meant “great,” because it seemed to mean flowing greatly
or grandly.
Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mo-
hamad, and placed them in charge of Fungafunga; so
there is little hope for fugitive slaves so long as Casembe
lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is very
sensible, and upright besides.
3rd November.—Got a Kondohondo, the large double-
billed Hornbill (the Buceros cristata), Kakomira, of the
Shiré, and the Sassassa of Bambarré. It is good eating,
and has fat of an orange tinge, like that of the zebra; I
keep the bill to make a spoon of it.
An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown
a hornbill spoon, and asked if it were really the bill of the
Phoenix. He replied that he did not know, but he had a
friend in London who knew all these sort of things, so the
Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon to Pro-
fessor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of
the fibres of the horn which he knew before, and went off
into the Museum of the College of Surgeons, and brought a
preserved specimen of this very bird. “God is great—God
is great,” said the Turk, “this is the Phoenix of which we
have heard so often.” I heard the Professor tell this at a
dinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857.
There is no great chief in Manyuema or Balégga; all are
petty headmen, each of whom considers himself a chief: it
is the ethnic state, with no cohesion between the different
portions of the tribe. Murder cannot be punished except
by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is made worse,
and transmitted to their descendants.
1870.] THE GREAT CHIEF MERERE. 7
The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses
at the future of the soul. The elder prophets were content
with the Divine support in life and in death. ‘The later
prophets advance further, as Isaiah: “Thy dead men shall
live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake,
and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the
dew of herbs. ‘The earth also shall cast out her dead.”
This, taken with the sublime spectacle of Hades in the four-
teenth chapter, seems a forecast of the future, but Jesus
instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Martha
without hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day
as a familiar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in
which she had been reared.
The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for
five years among the Watuta to learn their language and
ways, and he sent his two sons and a daughter to Zanzibar
to school. He kills many of his people, and says they are so
bad that if not killed they would murder strangers. Once
they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give
their huts to Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them,
and they soon called out, “ Let them alone; we will retire.”
He dresses like an Arab, and has ten loaded guns at his
sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several spears, and
two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his father
filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very
numerous people is Bawungu, country Urungu: his other
names are Ironga, Mohamu.
The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as
a deity, and fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear
them: they fear both before him and when out of sight.
The father of Meréré never drank pombe or beer, and
assigned as a reason that a great man who had charge of
people’s lives should never become intoxicated so as to do evil.
Bangé he never smoked, but in council smelled at a bunch
of it, in order to make his people believe that it had a great
78 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. ITI.
effect on him. Meréré drinks pombe freely, but never uses
bangé: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and
beef, but neither goats nor fowls are touched by him.
9th November—I1 sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted
some Nyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish
my work by the two Lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb
and Young, but wait only for Syde and Dugumbé, who
may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither,
but go through Karagwé homewards, I should miss them
altogether. I groan and am in bitterness at the delay, but
thus it is: I pray for help to do what is right, but sorely
am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: I cannot give
up making a complete work of the exploration.
10th November.—A party of Katomba’s men arrived on
their way to Ujiji for carriers, they report that a foray was
made §.W. of Mamohela to recover four guns, which were
captured from Katomba; three were recovered, and ten of
the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuema fought very
fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed and
others mutilated would they give up the guns; they pro-
bably expected this foray, and intended to fight till the last.
They had not gone in search of ivory while this was enact-
ing, consequently Mohamad’s men have got the start of
them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo’s, and
then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to
Loindé or Rindi River. The last men sent took to fighting
instead of trading, and returned empty; the experience
gained thus, and at the south-west, will probably lead them
to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot down
without reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize
at Mamohela, but cannot trade now where they got so much
ivory before. Five men were killed at Rindi or Loindé,
and one escaped: the reason of this outbreak by men who
have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing
the wholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were
1870.] OPPRESSORS AND OPPRESSED. 79
subject can easily guess the rest. Mamohela’s camp had
several times been set on fire at night by the tribes which
suffered assault, but did not effect all that was intended.
The Arabs say thatthe Manyuema now understand that every
eun-shot does not kill; the next thing they will learn will
be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their
spears will outmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it
will follow, too, that no one will be able to pass through
this country; this is the usual course of Suaheli trading ;
it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises in his
owner’s favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of
valour, by coldblooded killing of his countrymen: if they
can kill a fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The con-
science is not enlightened enough to cause uneasiness, and
Islam gives less than the light of nature.
I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as
kind as he can be, but to sit idle or give up before I finish
my work are both intolerable; I cannot bear either, yet I
am forced to remain by want of people.
11th November.—I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji
for letters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea,
which is half empty: if he cannot get carriers for the long
box itself, then he is to send these, the articles of which I
stand in greatest need.
The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyembé brought
three goats to redeem him: he is sick and emaciated ; one
goat was rejected. The boy shed tears when he saw his
grandmother, and the father too, when his goat was rejected.
“So I returned, and considered all the oppressions that are
done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as were
oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of
their oppressors there was power; but they had no com-
forter.’”—Eccles. iv. 1. The relations were told either to
bring the goat, or let the boy die; this was hard-hearted.
At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive, and
80 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IIT.
given too; here three are demanded. “He that is higher
than the highest regardeth, and there be higher than they.
Marvel not at the matter.”
I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewale
Syde bin Salem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to
quash the affair of robbery by his man Saloom, he kept
the other thief, Kamaels, by him for the same purpose.
Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here and
well; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869,
with money, and received neither an answer, nor my box
from Unyanyembé, and this is to be communicated to the
Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, it would only
be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: the
friend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad
bin Abdullah the Wuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewale of
the Governor of Zanzibar, Suleiman bin Ali or Shetkh
Suleiman the Secretary.
The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party
going to trade has lost three or four men, and in the last
foray they saw that the Manyuema can fight, for they killed
ten men: they will soon refuse to go among those whom
they have forced to become enemies.
One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy
ivory; he went with him, and on getting into the Zulas
country the stranger was asked by the guide if his gun killed
men, and how it did it: whilst he was explaining the matter
he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reason of
this, but the man probably lost some of his relations else-
where: this is called murder without cause. When Syde
and Dugumbé come, I hope to get men and a canoe to
finish my work among those who have not been abused by
Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of disposi-
tion; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and
the sore experience which they gain from slaves with guns
in their hands usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers.
1870.] THE FUTURE OF AFRICA. 81
The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has
come down with relentless rigour on Africa from the most
remote times! What the African will become after this
awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the future deve-
lopments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the
highest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful
country, and again something like what it was of old, when
Zerah and Tirhaka flourished, and were great.
The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile,
the maize sown in it rushes up to seed, and everything is
in rank profusion if only it be kept clear of weeds, but the
Bambarré people are indifferent cultivators, planting maize,
bananas and plantains, and ground-nuts only—no dura, a
little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins, melons,
or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a
few sweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native
grains and roots are abundant and cheap. No one would
choose this as a residence, except for the sake of Moené-
kuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallon may be
got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts,
cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Balégga,
like the Bambarré people, trust chiefly to plantains and
ground-nuts; to play with parrots is their great amusement.
13th November——The men sent over to Lohombo, about
thirty miles off, got two and a half loads of dura for a
small goat, but the people were unwilling to trade. “If we
encourage Arabs to trade, they will come and kill us with
their guns,” so they said, and it is true: the slaves are over-
bearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues.
I got some sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful
in cooking, and with salt, passes for butter on bread, but all
were unwilling to trade. Monangoi was over near Lohombo,
and heard of a large trading party coming, and not far off;
this may be Syde and Dugumbé, but reports are often
false. When Katomba’s men were on the late foray, they
VOL. Il. ' G
82 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IIT.
were completely overpowered, and compelled by the Man-
yuema to lay down their guns and powder-horns, on pain
of being instantly despatched by bowshot: they were
mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make
a noise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could
shoot, and when they came they killed many, and gained
the lost day; the Manyuema did not kill anyone who laid
down his gun and powder-horn. This is the beginning of
an end which was easily perceived when it became not a
trading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages.
The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba
for twenty goats from Kassessa!—ten men lost for twenty
goats, but they will think twice before they try another
foray.
A small bird follows the “Sassassa” or Buceros cristata.
It screams and pecks at his tail till he discharges the
contents of his bowels, and then leaves him; it is called
“play” by the natives, and by the Suaheli “ Utané” or
“Msaha ”—fun or wit; he follows other birds in the same
merciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging ;
Manyuema call this bird “Mambambwa.” The buffalo bird
warns its big friend of danger, by calling “ Chachacha,” and
the rhinoceros bird cries out, “ ‘Tye, tye, tye, tye,” for the same
purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird “ Mojela,”
and the Suaheli, “Chassa.” A climbing plant in Africa is
known as “ Ntulungopé,” which mixed with flour of dura
kills mice; they swarm in our camp and destroy everything,
but Ntulungopé is not near this.
The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for
provisions for a large family at Zanzibar; the food consists
of wheat, rice, flesh of goats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk,
butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, and potatoes. Ambergris is
boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoos as a
means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity
is a dose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or
1870.] THE “SAFURA ” DISEASE. 83
Brava, and at Madagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of
it while alive. Lamoo or Amu is wealthy, and well supplied
with everything, as grapes, peaches, wheat, cattle, camels, &c.
The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: the houses are richly
furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &c. At Garaganza
there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruits
abound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why
cannot we missionaries imitate these Arabs in living on
heights ?
24th November—Herpes is common at the plantations in
Zanzibar, but the close crowding of the houses in the town
they think prevents it; the lips and mouth are affected,
and constipation sets in for three days, all this is cured by
going over to the mainland. Affections of the lungs are
healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on the
mainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from
Ujiji, but who the person employed is I do not know.
29th November.—Safura is the name of the disease of
clay or earth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves,
and the clay is said to have a pleasant odour to the eaters,
but it is not confined to slaves, nor do slaves eat in order
to kill themselves; it is a diseased appetite, and rich men
who have plenty to eat are often subject to it. The feet
swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patient
can scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and
he continues eating till he dies. Here many slaves are now
diseased with safura; the clay built in walls is preferred,
and Manyuema women when pregnant often eat it. The
cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: old
vinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag
red-hot cast into it, then “Moneyé,” asafcetida, half a rupee
in weight, copperas, sulph. ditto: a small glass of this,
fasting morning and eyening, produces vomiting and purg-
ing of black dejections, this is continued for seven days;
no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice or dura and
. G2
S4 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. III.
water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, or
beef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad’s father
had skill in the cure, and the above is his prescription.
Safura is thus a disease per se; it 1s common in Man-
yuema, and makes me in a measure content to wait for
my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems
to be the agent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum
and the clay or earth may be nature trying to clear it away:
the clay appears unchanged in the stools, and in large
quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore an enormous
load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he
took it at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is con-
tented with his lot. Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood
appears beneath it, safura is the cause of the bloodlessness.
CE ASP Wiis al Ni
Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials. Lion’s
fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings about Meréré.
Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest disease of all!
The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goitre. News of the
cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The parrot’s-feather challenge.
Murder of James. Men arrive as servants. They refuse to go north.
Parts at last with malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and
the Sultan. Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a
young soko. Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They
“want to eat a white one.” Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders.
Heartsore and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwé. Reaches the
Lualaba.
6th December, 1870.— On, for Dugumbé or Syde to come!
but this delay may be all for the best. ‘The parrots all
seize their food, and hold it with the left hand, the lon,
too, is left-handed; he strikes with the left, so are all
animals left-handed save man.
I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite
jauntily about a month ago, on marriage with Monasimba.
Ten goats were given; her friends came and asked another
goat, which being refused, she was enticed away, became
sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died
yesterday. Nota syllable of regret for the beautiful young
creature does one hear, but for the goats: “Oh, our ten
voats!”—they cannot grieve too much—*Our ten goats—
oh! oh!”
Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over
those who die in battle: the cattle are a salve for all sores.
86 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
Another man was killed within half a mile of this: they
quarrelled, and there is virtually no chief. The man was
stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled: they
are truly a bloody people!
A man died near this, Monasimba went to his eS and
after washing he may appear among men. If no widow can
be obtained, he must sit naked behind his house till some
one happens to die, all the clothes he wore are thrown
away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially in
bloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes
free, he offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead,
and after a great deal of talk nothing was done to him!
Sth December.—Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the main-
land, Mosessamé, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to
deny his power of foresight, except by rejecting all evidence,
for he frequently foretold the deaths of great men among
Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a good man, upright
and sincere: “'Thirti,” none like him now for goodness and
skill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with
straight noses and flowing hair down to the girdle behind,
came at times, and told him things to come. He died
twelve years ago, and left no successor; he foretold his
own decease three days beforehand by cholera. “ Heresi,” a
ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm
to the animal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one.
10th December.—I am sorely let and hindered in this
Manyuema. Rain every day, and often at night; I could
not travel now, even if I had men, but I could make some
progress; this is the sorest delay I ever had. I look above
for help and mercy.
[The wearied man tried to while away the time by
gaining little scraps of information from the Arabs and
the natives, but we cannot fail to see what a serious stress
was all the time put upon his constitution under these cir-
1870.] LION’S FAT. 87
cumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature
of his narrative, written as it was under the greatest
disadvantage. |
Lion’s fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or
bungo. This was noted before, but I add now that it is
smeared on the ox’s tail, and preserves hundreds of the
Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to the coast; it
is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from
gardens: the smell is probably the efficacious part in
“ Heresi,” as they call it.
12th December—It may be all for the best that I am so
hindered, and compelled to inactivity.
An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders
for many a day, for the slaves returning with ivory were
speared mercilessly by Manyuema, because they did not
know guns could kill, and their spears could. Katomba
coming to Moenékuss was a great feat three or four years
ago; then Dugumbé went on to Lualaba, and fought his
way, so I may be restrained now in mercy till men come.
The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest
parts of man and beast, cuts them off, and retires contented:
buffaloes are often castrated by him. Men who know it,
squat down, and kill him with knife or gun. The Zibu or"
mbuide flies at the tendon Achilles; it is most likely the
Ratel. ;
The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the
seas, but the ratel or badger probably furnished the skins
for the Tabernacle: bees escape from his urine, and he
eats their honey in safety; lions and all other animals fear
his attacks of the heel.
The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a
measure) of castor-oil seeds with the dura and meleza they
grind, and usage makes them like it, the nauseous taste
is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is needed where so
88 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels
are regulated by the mixture: experience has taught them
the need of a fatty ingredient.
[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure
all the information possible from the Arabs respecting the
powerful chief Meréré, who is reported to live on the borders
of the Salt Water Lake, which les between Lake Tanganyika
and the Hast Coast. It would seem as if Meréré held the
most available road for travellers passing to the south-west
from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through
his country, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as
much as he could for the benefit of others. |
Goambari is a prisoner at Meréré’s, guarded by a thousand
or more men, to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo,
who is known as bloodthirsty. In the third generation
Charura’s descendants numbered sixty able-bodied spear-
men, Garahenga or Kimamuré killed many of them.
Charura had six white attendants with him, but all died
before he did, and on becoming chief he got all his pre-
decessor’s wives. Meréré is the son of a woman of the
royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade
or two darker than Charura’s descendants, who are very
light coloured, and have straight noses. They shave the
head, and straight hair is all cut off; they drink much
milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think that it is
strengthening by its heat.
December 23rd.—Bambarré people suffer hunger now
because they will not plant cassava; this trading party eats.
all the maize, and sends to a distance for more, and the
Manyuema buy from them with malofu, or palm-toddy.
Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none :
maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man
among the Manyuema does what he pleases, and no chief
1870.] REMARKS ON IVORY. 89
interferes: for instance, a man’s wife for ten goats was
given off to a Mené man, and his child, now grown, is given
away too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! ‘Two ele-
phants killed were very large, but have only small tusks:
they come from the south in the rains. All animals, as
elephants, buffaloes, and zebras, are very large in the
Basango country; tusks are full in the hollows, and
weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh :
eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant.
[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be
interesting here: they are very kindly furnished by Mr.
F. D. Blyth, whose long experience enables him to speak
with authority upon the subject. He says, England imports
about 550 tons of ivory annually,—of this 280 tons pass
away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by
our manufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone
require about 170 tons. The whole annual importation is
derived from the following countries, and in the quantities
given below, as near as one can approach to actual figures:
Bombay and Zanzibar export Sasay «es LOO tons:
mlexandrna and Malta, i. ¢:. ... -.« 180: ,,
Wiest Wousr oF Airica 8 .. 124. sae aoe LAO
Cape of Good Hope ee tcar ted Facey Unio
VG UTONC ee ne late eee. owt wags AO” aay
The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the
southern countries of Asia, and the East Coast of Africa,
and after selecting that which is most suited to the wants
of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship the remainder to
Europe.
From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected
from Northern and Central Africa, from Egypt, and the
countries through which the Nile flows.
Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of
90 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
ivory increased considerably ; and when we look at the
prices realized on large Zanzibar tusks at the public sales,
we can well understand the motive power which drove the
Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country
from which the chief supply was derived when Dr. Living-
stone met them.
In 1867 their price varied from £39 to £42.
5, 1868 a 3 i 39 ,, 42.
» 1869 3 ze i 41, 44.
sou, COLO - si a do. 3 4g
Se sel x Ee a dO: 4. doe
” 1872 oy) ey) ” 58 oy) 61.
” 1873 ” oy) ” 68 9 72.
ey) 1874 ” ” ”? 03 ry) 08.
Single tusks vary in weight from 1 Ib. to 165 lbs.: the
average of a pair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs., and there-
fore 44,000 elephants, large and small, must be killed
yearly to supply the ivory which comes to England alone,
and when we remember that an enormous quantity goes to
America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of
which we have no account, some faint notion may be formed
of the destruction that goes on amongst the herds of
elephants.
Although naturalists distinguish only two living species
of elephants, viz. the African and the Asiatic, nevertheless
there is a great difference in the size, character, and colour
of their tusks, which may arise from variations in climate,
soil, and food. 'The largest tusks are yielded by the African
elephant, and find their way hither from the port of Zan-
zibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or “mellow”
to work, and free from cracks or defects.
The tusks from India, Ceylon, &c., are smaller in size,
partly of an opaque character, and partly translucent (or,
as it is technically called “ bright”), and harder and more
1870.] ELEPHANT’S TUSKS. 91
cracked, but those from Siam and the neighbouring countries
are very “bright,” soft, and fine grained; they are much
sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks from
Mozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed
70 Ibs. in weight each: they are similar in character to the
Zanzibar kind.
Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ
considerably in quality : some resemble those from Zanzibar,
whilst others are white and opaque, harder to work, and more
eracked at the points; and others again are very translucent
and hard, besides being liable to crack: this latter descrip-
tion fetches a much lower price in the market.
From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is
always translucent, with a dark outside or coating, but
partly hard and partly soft.
The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon
River, and the ports south of the equator, is more highly
valued than any other, and is called “silver grey”: this
sort retains its whiteness when exposed to the air, and is
free from that tendency to become yellowish in time which
characterises Asiatic and East African ivory.
Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in dia-
meter, sharper, and less worn than soft ones, and they come
to market much more cracked, fetching in consequence a
lower price.
In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory
are received from time to time from the Arctic regions and
Siberia, and although of unknown antiquity, some tusks are
equal in every respect to ivory which is obtained in the
present day from elephants newly killed; this, no doubt, is
owing to the -preservative effects of the ice in which the
animals have been imbedded for many thousands of years.
In the year 1799 the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken
from the ice, and the skeleton and portions of the skin, still
covered with reddish hair, are preserved in the Museum of
92 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the flesh were
eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice. |
24th December.—Between twenty-five and thirty slaves
have died in the present epidemic, and many Manyuema ;
two yesterday at Kandawara. The feet swell, then the hands
and face, and in a day or two they drop dead; it came from
the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who take it.
A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief
here sent all his people yesterday, plundered all she had
in her house and garden, and brought her husband bound in
thongs till he shall pay a goat: she is said to be innocent.
Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as
the people tell him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance
he is earning by injustice on all sides will be taken: I
told the chief that his head would be cut off as soon as
the traders leave, and so it will be, and Kasessa’s also.
Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo’s to buy
Viramba, and a man was speared belonging to Kasongo,
these three then fired into a mass of men who collected,
one killed two, another three, and so on; so now that place
is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed
as soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in
their power of killing, and especially in the hands of slaves,
who cannot shoot, but only make a noise. These Suaheli
are the most cruel and bloodthirsty missionaries in existence,
and withal so impure in talk and acts, spreading disease
everywhere. The Lord sees it.
28th December.—Moenembege, the most intelligent of the
two sons of Moenékuss, in power, told us that a man was
killed and eaten a few miles from this yesterday: hunger
was the reason assigned. On speaking of tainted meat, he
said that the Manyuema put meat in water for two days to
make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the
only reason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is
1870.] THE STRANGE DISEASE! 93
now hidden on account of the disgust that the traders ex-
pressed against open man-eating when they first arrived.
Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema
say that when it is so loud fishes of large size fall with it,
an opinion shared by the Arabs, but the large fish is really
the Clarias Capensis of Smith, and it is often seen migrating
in single file along the wet grass for miles: it is probably
this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning.
The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems
really to be broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men
who have been captured and made slaves. My attention
was drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde bin Habib
was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear being
pitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed
vengeance for the blood of his brother, and assaulted all
he could find, killing the elders, and making the young
men captives. He had secured a very large number, and
they endured the chains until they saw the broad River
Lualaba roll between them and their free homes; they
then lost heart. ‘Twenty-one were unchained as being now
safe; however, all ran away at once, but eight, with many
others still in chains, died in three days after crossing.
They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placed the
hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the
organ stands high up under the breast bone. Some slavers
expressed surprise to me that they should die, seeing they
had plenty to eat and no work. One fine boy of about
twelve ‘years was carried, and when about to expire, was
kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug
to deposit the body in. He, too, said he had nothing the
matter with him, except pain in his heart: as it attacks
only the free (who are captured and never slaves), it seems
to be really broken-hearts of which they die.
| Livingstone’s servants give some additional particulars
94 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
in answer to questions put to them about this dreadful
history. The sufferings endured by these unfortunate cap-
tives, whilst they were hawked about in different directions,
must have been shocking indeed; many died because it
was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head
whilst marching in the heavy yoke or “taming stick,”
which weighs from 30 Ibs. to 40lbs. as a rule, and the
Arabs knew that if once the stick were taken off, the
captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children
for a time would keep up with wonderful endurance, but
it happened sometimes that the sound of dancing and the
merry tinkle of the small drums would fall on their ears in
passing near to a village; then the memory of home and
happy days proved too much for them; they cried and
sobbed, the “ broken-heart” came on, and they rapidly sank.
The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from
treachery, and had never been slaves before. Very often the
Arabs would promise a present of dried fish to villagers if
they would act as guides to some distant point, and as soon
as they were far enough away from their friends they were
seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no
escape. These poor fellows would expire in the way the
Doctor mentions, talking to the last of their wives and
children who would never know what had become of them.
On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as
follows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody
of an Arab armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect
wood; at a given signal, one of them called the guard
to look at something which he pretended he had found:
when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him
and overpowered him, and after he was dead managed to
break the chain and make off in all directions. ]
Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A
leopard killed my goat, and a gun set for him went off at
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Page 95.
A DANGEROUS PRIZE.
VOL, II.
1871.] THE BITER BIT. . 95
10 p.m.—the ball broke both hind legs and one fore lee, yet
he had power to spring up and bite a man badly afterwards ;
he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet 8
inches from tip of nose to end of tail.
Ist January, 1871.—O Father! help me to finish this
work to Thy honour.
Still detained at Bambarré, but a caravan of 500 muskets
is reported from the coast: it may bring me other men and
goods.
Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close
by the camp; the murderer said she was a witch and
speared her: the body is exposed till the affair is settled,
probably by a fine of goats.
The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I
know; one puts a scarlet feather from a parrot’s tail on the
ground, and challenges those near to stick it in the hair:
he who does so must kill a man or woman!
Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the
musk cat, Ngawa, unless he has murdered somebody: guns
alone prevent them from killing us all, and for no reason
either.
16th January.— Ramadan ended last night, and it is
probable my people and others from the coast will begin to
travel after three days of feasting. It has been so rainy I
could have done little though I had had people.
22nd January.—A party is reported to be on the way
hither. This is likely enough, but reports are so often false
that doubts arise. Mohamad says he will give men when
the party of Hassani comes, or when Dugumbé arrives.
24th January.—Mohamad mentioned this morning that
Moene-mokaia, and Moeneghera his brother, brought about
thirty slaves from Kataiiga to Ujiji, affected with swelled
thyroid glands or “ Goitre,” and that drinking the water of
Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very few days.
Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they
96 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IV.
began to use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking,
washing, and drinking : possibly some ingredient of the hot
fountain that flows into it affects the cure, for the people on
the Lofubu, in Nsama’s country, had the swelling. The
water in bays is decidedly brackish, while the body of Tan-
ganyika is quite fresh.
The odour of putrid elephant’s meat in a house kills
parrots: the Manyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know
its fatal effects on their favourite birds.
27th January.—Safari or caravan reported to be near, and
my men and goods at Ujiji.
28th January—A safari, under Hassani and Ebed,
arrived with news of great mortality by cholera (Zowny), at
Zanzibar, and my “ brother,” whom I conjecture to be Dr.
Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrote for have come to Ujiji,
but did not know my whereabouts; when told by Katomba’s
men they will come here, and bring my much longed for
letters and goods. 70,000 victims in Zanzibar alone from
cholera, and it spread inland to the Masoi and Ugogo!
Cattle shivered, and fell dead: the fishes in the sea died in
ereat numbers; here the fowls were first seized and died,
but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirty men
perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the
able men being off trading at the Metamba, and how many
Manyuema died we do not know; the survivors became
afraid of eating the dead.
Formerly the Cholera kept along the seashore, now it
goes far inland, and will spread all over Africa; this we get
from Mecca filth, for nothing was done to prevent the place
being made a perfect cesspool of animals’ guts and ordure of
men.* A piece of skin bound round the chest of a man, and
* The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from the
interior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani.
Dr. Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed the
course of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema.—Eb,
1871.] MOSLEM MORALS. 97
half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength, and he
forgets and fattens.
Ebed’s party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads;
they will cross Lualaba, and open a new field on the other,
or Young’s Lualaba: all Central Africa will soon be known:
the evils inflicted by these Arabs are enormous, but pro-
bably not greater than the people inflict on each other.
Meréré has turned against the Arabs, and killed one;
robbing several others of all they had, though he has ivory
sufficient to send down 7000 Ibs. to the coast, and receive
loads of goods for 500 men in return. He looks as if
insane, and probably is so, and will soon be killed. His
insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinks
largely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs
were plotting with Goambari. He restored Mohamad’s ivory
and slaves, and sent for the other traders who had fled,
saying his people had spoken badly, and he would repay all
losses.
The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came
stealing Banyamwezi cattle, and Mtéza’s men went out to
them, and twenty-two were killed, but the Lewale’s people
did nothing. The Governor’s sole anxiety is to obtain
ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman
the Wazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and
sent away all the sepoys as too expensive, consequently
the Wagogo plunder traders unchecked. It is reported
that Egyptian Turks came up and attacked Mtéza, but lost
many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission to
his country was a falsehood, though the details given were
circumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can _ believe
nothing the Arabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence:
they are the followers of the Prince of lies—Mohamad,
whose cool appropriation of the knowledge gained at
Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All
his deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is
VOL. II. H
98 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IV.
worth noticing that all admit the decadence of the Moslem
power, and they ask how it is so fallen? They seem sincere
in their devotion and in teaching the Koran, but its mean-
ing is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. The
Persian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully
impure. Earth from a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in
the turban and worshipped: some of the sects won't
say “Amen.”
Moenyegumbé never drank more than a mouthful of
pombe. When young, he could make his spear pass right
through an elephant, and stick in the ground on the other
side. He was a large man, and all his members were
largely developed, his hands and fingers were all in pro-
portion to his great height; and he lived to old age with
strength unimpaired: Goambari inherits his white colour
and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage. Meréré
killed five of his own people for exciting him against
the Arabs. The half-caste is the murderer of many
of Charura’s descendants. His father got a daughter of
Moenyegumbé for courage in fighting the Babema of
Ubena.
Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some
kill people in order to be allowed to wear the red tail
feathers of a parrot in their hair, and yet they are not
ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for many men haye as
finely formed heads as could be found in London. We
English, if naked, would make but poor figures beside the
strapping forms and finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men
and women. Their cannibalism is doubtful, but my obser-
vations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury would say,
“Not proven.” The women are not guilty.
Ath February, 1871.—Ten of my men from the coast haye
come near to Bambarré, and will arrive to-day. I am ex-
tremely thankful to hear it, for it assures me that my
packet of letters was not destroyed; they know at home
1871.] ‘BOY KILLED AND EATEN. 99
by this time what has detained me, and the end to which I
strain.
Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James
was killed to-day by an arrow: the assassin was hid in the
forest till my men going to buy food came up.* I propose
to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a cheque for
Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the
midst of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men
off to me with goods; the first gang of porters all died.
8th February—The ten men refusing to go north are
influenced probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders,
who try this means to compel me to take them.
9th February—The man who contrived the murder
of James came here, drawn by the pretence that he was
needed to lead a party against the villages, which he led
to commit the outrage. His thirst for blood is awful: he
was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murderers
within three days, or he suffers death. He brought five
goats, thinking that would smooth the matter over.
11th February.—Men struck work for higher wages: I
consented to give them six dollars a month if they behaved
well; if ill I diminish it, so we hope to start to-morrow.
Another hunting quelled by Mohamad and me.
The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are
English subjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth:
they will not help me, and swear that the Consul told
them not to go forward, but to force me back, and they
spread the tale all over the country that a certain letter
has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They
swore so positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk’s
letter to see if his orders had been rightly understood by me.
But for Mohamad Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they
* The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by the
Manyuema who lay in ambush._—Eb.
H 2
100 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IV.
would gain their own and their Banian masters’ end to
baffle me completely; they demand an advance of one
dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double free-
man’s pay at Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and
Awathé, refused to come past Ujiji, and are revelling on
my goods there.
13th February.a—Mabruki being seized with choleraic
purging detains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces
Americano, five ditto Kaniké,* and two frasilahs samisami
beads. He gives me a note to Hassani for twenty thick
copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eat the meat
of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we
want the men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they
were much disappointed when they found that no one was
killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals.
16th, Friday—Started to-day. Mabruki making himself
out very ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I
travelled when much worse. The chief gave me a goat,
and Mohamad another, but in coming through the forest on
- the neck of the mountain the men lost three, and have to
go back for them, and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram
were bundled out of the camp, and impudently followed me:
when they came up, I told them to be off.
17th February—Waiting at a village on the Western
slope for the men to come up with the goats, if they have
gone back to the camp. Mohamad would not allow the
deserters to remain among his people, nor would I. It
would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their
want of respect for all English, and total disregard of
honesty and honour: they came after me with inimitable
effrontery, believing that though I said I would not take
them, they were so valuable, I was only saying what I knew
to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man,
* Kaniké is a blue calico.
1871.] EXPLORING ONCE MORE. 101
who found one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it,
and brought one of his own in lieu of it. I gave him
ten strings of beads, and he presented a fowl in token of
goodwill. .
18th February—Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and
on the 19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so
eamestly against going to Moenekurumbo for the cause of
Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture.
20th February—tTo the ford with only one canoe now, as
two men of Katomba were swept away in the other, and
drowned. They would not sell the remaining canoe, so 1
go N.W. on foot to Moené Lualaba, where fine large canoes
are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but my
men lift me over the waters.
21st February.—aArrived at Monandewa’s village, situated
on a high ridge between two deep and difficult gullies.
These people are obliging and kind: the chiefs wife made
a fire for me in the evening unbidden.
22nd February.—On N.W. to a high hill called Chibandé
a Yundé, with a spring of white water at the village on
the top. Famine from some unknown cause here, but the
people are cultivating now on the plain below with a
will.
23rd February—On to two large villages with many
banana plants around, but the men said they.were in fear
of the traders, and shifted their villages to avoid them:
we then went on to the village Kahombogola, with a feeble
old man as chief. ‘The country is beautiful and undu-
lating : light-green grass covers it all, save at ,the brooks,
where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees.
Grass tears the hands and wets the extremities constantly.
The soil is formed of the débris of granitic rocks; rough
and stony, but everywhere fertile. One can rarely get a
bare spot to sit down and rest.
24th February—tvYo a village near Lolandé River. ‘Then
102 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. IV.
across the Loengadyé, sleeping on the bank of the Luha,
and so to Mamohela, where we were welcomed by all the
Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr. Kirk and another from
the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who was going
to Karagwé: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour,
nuts, fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo’s,
much shorter than that I followed. I rest a few days,
and then go on. |
25th February—So we went on, and found ‘that it was
now known that the Lualaba fiowed west-south-west, and
that our course was to be west across this other great
bend of the mighty river. I had to suspend my judgment,
so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps the Congo.
No one knew anything about it except that when at
Kasongo’s nine days west, and by south it came sweeping
round and flowed north and north and by east.
Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been
caught while its mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches
high, has fine long black hair all over, which was pretty so
long as it was kept in order by her dam. She is the least
mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have seen, and
seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits
quietly on the mat beside me. In walking, the first
thing observed is that she does not tread on the palms of
her hands, but on the backs of the second line of bones of
the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground,
nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported
erutch fashion, and hitches herself along between them;
occasionally one hand is put down before the other, and
alternates with the feet, or she walks upright and holds
up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, she turns
her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter
human weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding
a fourth hand or foot to make the appeal more touching.
Grass or leaves she draws around her to make a nest, and
1871.] THE YOUNG SOKO. 103
resents anyone meddling with her property. She is a most
friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her
hand to be’shaken. I slapped her palm without offence,
though she winced. She began to untie the cord with
which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and thumbs,
in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by
a man looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him
with her hands: she was afraid of his stick, and faced
him, putting her back to me as a friend. She holds out her
hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite like a
spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat
like that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in
despair. She eats everything, covers herself with a mat to
sleep, and makes a nest of grass or leaves, and wipes her
face with a leaf.
I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to
Katomba, as he has been very kind when away from Ujiji:
I pay him thus for all his services. He gave me the soko,
and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I have tried to refund all
that the Arabs expended on me.
1st March, 1871.—I was to start this morning, but the
Arabs asked me to take seven of their people going to buy
biramba, as they know the new way: the offer was gladly
accepted.
2nd to 5th March.—Left Mamohela, and travelled over
fine grassy plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills,
from three to ten or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh
deep. ‘Tree-covered mountains on both sides. The natives
know the rills by names, and readily tell their courses, and
which falls into which, before all go into the great Lualaba;
but without one as a guide, no one can put them in a map.
We came to Monanbunda’s villages, and spent the night.
Our next stage was at Monangongo’s. A small present of
a few strings of beads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it
104 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. IV.
invariably as acknowledgment for lodgings. The headman
of our next stage hid himself in fear, as we were near to
the scene of Bin Juma’s unprovoked slaughter of five men,
for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down, Our path
lay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was
in the same dense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that
touch our arms on each side. We came to some villages
among beautiful tree-covered hills, called Basilangé or
Mobasilangé. The villages are very pretty, standing on
slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to
allow the bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from
one end to the other, and lick up quickly the moisture
from the frequent showers which is not drained off by the
slopes. A little verandah is often made in front of the door,
and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while
enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accom-
panies the first darting of the light or sun’s rays across the
atmosphere, inhale the delicious air, and talk over their
little domestic affairs. The various shaped leaves of the
forest all around their village and near their nestlings are
bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. ‘The cocks crow
vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap
on the backs of their dams quietly chewing the cud; other
goats make believe fighting. Thrifty wives often bake their
new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting a heap of grass
roots: the next morning they extract salt from the ashes,
and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of
this morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable.
Infancy gilds the fairy picture with its own lines, and it is
probably never forgotten, for the young, taken up from
slavers, and treated with all philanthropic missionary
care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy as
the finest and fairest they have known. They would go
back to freedom and enjoyment as fast as would our own
sons of the soil, and be heedless to the charms of hard
1871.] THE “GOOD ONE.” 105
work and no play which we think so much better for them
if not for us.
In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the
people had fled at our approach, in dread of repetitions of
the outrages of Arab slaves. The doors were all shut:
a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green reeds placed across
them, means “no entrance here.”
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THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE.
1871.] FIENDISH MASSACRE. 133
punish Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the
country that they alone are to be dealt with — “make
friends with us, and not with Manilla or anyone else”’—
such is what they insist upon.
About 1500 people came to market, though many villages
of those that usually come from the other side were now in
flames, and every now and then a number of shots were fired
on the fugitives.
It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the
market I saw Adie and Manilla, and three of the men who
had lately come with Dugumbé. I was surprised to see
these three with their guns, and felt inclined to reprove
them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being
very hot, I was walking away to go out of the market, when
I saw one of the fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing
hold of it. Before I had got thirty yards out, the discharge
of two guns in the middle of the crowd told me that slaughter
had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and threw
down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time
that the three opened fire on the mass of people near the
upper end of the market-place volleys were discharged from
a party down near the creek on the panic-stricken women,
who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or more, were
jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the
terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out,
for the creek was too small for so many; men and women,
wounded by the balls, poured into them, and leaped and
scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long line of heads
in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an
island a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put
the left shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if
they had struck away diagonally to the opposite bank, the
current would have aided them, and, though nearly three
miles off, some would have gained land: as it was, the heads
154 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. V,
above water showed the long line of those that would
inevitably perish.
Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and
perishing. Some of the long line of heads disappeared
quietly ; whilst other poor creatures threw their arms high,
as if appealing to the great Father above, and sank. One
canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all paddled with
hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared.
One man in a long canoe, which could have held forty or
fifty, had clearly lost his head; he had been out in the
stream before the massacre began, and now paddled up
the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning. By-
and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down
stream towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbé put people
into one of the deserted vessels to save those in the water,
and saved twenty-one, but one woman refused to be taken
on board from thinking that she was to be made a slave of;
she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the lot of a
slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they
are accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down
stream may have escaped, but the Arabs themselves esti-
mated the loss of life at between 330 and 400 souls. The
shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless, they killed
two of their own people; anda Banyamwezi follower, who
got into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water,
went down, then came up again, and down to rise no more.
My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbé
protested against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was
thankful afterwards that I took his advice. Two wretched
Moslems asserted “that the firing was done by the people
of the English ;” I asked one of them why he lied so, and he
could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as
he stood abashed before me, and so telling him not to tell
palpable falsehoods, I left him gaping.
1871.] TAGAMOIO. 135
After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Taga-
moio, who was the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on
the people there and fire their villages. As I write I
hear the loud wails on the left bank over those who are
there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the depths
of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever
now the exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning,
it gaye me the impression of being in Hell. All the slaves
in the camp rushed at the fugitives on land, and plundered
them: women were for hours collecting and carrying loads
of what had been thrown down in terror.
Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumbé saved
twenty-one, and of his own accord liberated them, they were
brought to me, and remained over night near my house. One
woman of the saved had a musket-ball through the thigh,
another in the arm. I sent men with our flag to save some, for
without a flag they might have been victims, for Tagamoio’s
people were shooting right and left like fiends. I counted
twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question
of Dugumbé and others, “ Now for what is all this murder ?’
All blamed Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the
cause; but it is hardly credible that they repeat it is in
order to be avenged on Manilla for making friends with
headmen, he being a slave. I cannot believe it fully. The
wish to make an impression in the country as to the
importance and greatness of the new comers was the most
potent motive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so
many should be contemplated at all. It made me sick at
heart. Who could accompany the people of Dugumbé and
Tagamoio to Lomamé and be free from blood-guiltiness ?
I proposed to Dugumbé to catch the murderers, and
hang them up in the market-place, as our protest against
the bloody deeds before the Manyuema. If, as he and
others added, the massacre was committed by Manilla’s
people, he would have consented; but it was done by
136 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. V.
Tagamoio’s people, and others of this party, headed by
Dugumbé. This slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inas-
much as we have always heard that women coming to or
from market have never been known to be molested: even
when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities, “the
women,” say they, “pass among us to market unmolested,”
nor has one ever been known to be plundered by the men.
These Nigger Moslems are inferior to the Manyuema in
justice and right. The people under Hassani began the
superwickedness of capture and pillage of all indiscrimi-
nately. Dugumbé promised to send over men to order
Tagamoio’s men to cease firing and burning villages; they
remained over among the ruins, feasting on goats and fowls
all night, and next day (16th) continued their infamous
work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.
16th July.—I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued
to their friends: Dugumbé seemed to act in good faith, and
kept none of them; it was his own free will that guided
him. Women are delivered to their husbands, and about
thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be kept for the
owners too.
12 a.m.—Shooting still going on on the other side, and
many captives caught. At 1 p.m. Tagamoio’s people began
to cross over in canoes, beating their drums, firing their
guns, and shouting, as if to say, “See the conquering heroes
come ;” they are answered by the women of Dugumbé’s
camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy.
I count seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes
straight up and forms clouds at the top of the pillar, showing
great heat evolved, for the houses are full of carefully-
prepared firewood. Dugumbé denies having sent Tagamoio
on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish
the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no
right to make war and burn villages, that could only be
done by free men. Manilla confesses to me privately that
1871.] CAPTIVES RESTORED. 157
he did wrong in that, and loses all his beads and many
friends in consequence.
2 p.M.—An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife ;
IT asked her if this were her husband, she went to him, and
put her arm lovingly around him, and said “ Yes.” I gave
her five strings of beads to buy food, all her stores being
destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put her
forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the
same: the tears stood in her eyes as she went off. Taga-
moio caught 17 women, and other Arabs of his party, 27 ;
dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen were
brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves.
3 p.M.—Many of the headmen who have been burned out
by the foray came over to me, and begged me to come back
with them, and appoint new localities for them to settle in
again, but I told them that I was so ashamed of the com-
pany in which I found myself, that I could scarcely look
the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I
wished to kill them—what did they think now? I could
not remain among bloody companions, and would flee away,
I said, but they begged me hard not to leave until they
were again settled.
The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting
women fills me with unspeakable horror: I cannot think of
going anywhere with the Tagamoio crew; I must either
go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian slaves choose.
4 p.M.—Dugumbé saw that by killing the market people
he had committed a great error, and speedily got the chiefs
who had come over to me to meet him at his house, and
forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. I could not
remain to see to their protection, and Dugumbé, being the
best of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends,
and then appeal to him as able to restrain to some extent
his infamous underlings. One chief asked to have his wife
and daughter restored to him first, but generally they were
* 188 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. V.
cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumbé said
to me, “I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he
must make friends now, in order that the market may not
be given up.” Blood was mixed, and an essential condition
was, “ You must give us chitoka,” or market. He and most
others saw that in theoretically punishing Manilla, they
had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had
The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to
Lomamé, and no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may
pretend, they all hate to have me as a witness of their cold-
blooded atrocities. The Banian slaves would like to go
with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves. I
tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with
bloodhounds it is out of the question. I see nothing for it
but to go back to Ujiji for other men, though it will throw
me out of the chance of discovering the fourth great Lake in
the Lualaba line of drainage, and other things of great value.
At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days,
on foot. I wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive
relations of the chiefs, but he always ran away when he saw
me coming.
17th July—aAll the rest of Dugumbe’s party offered me a
share of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not
to be ashamed to tell them what I needed. I declined
everything save a little gunpowder, but they all made pre-
sents of beads, and I was glad to return equivalents in cloth.
It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days in a straight
line—equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings
600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the
Banian slaves for twenty-one months! But it is for the best
though; if I do not trust to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait
for other men at least ten months there. With help from
above I shall yet go through Rua, see the underground
excayations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancient
fountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln.
1871.] AGONY OF MIND. 139
18th July.—The murderous assault on the market people
felt to me like Gehenna, without the fire and brim-
stone; but the heat was oppressive, and the firearms pour-
ing their iron bullets on the fugitives, was not an inapt
representative of burning in the bottomless pit.
The terrible scenes of man’s inhumanity to man brought
on severe headache, which might have been serious had it
not been relieved by a copious discharge of blood; I was
laid up all yesterday afternoon, with the depression the
bloodshed made,—it filled me with unspeakable horror.
“Don’t go away,” say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but
I cannot stay here in agony.
19th July—Dugumbé sent me a fine goat, a maneh
of gunpowder, a maneh of fine blue beads, and 230
cowries, to buy provisions in the way. I proposed to leave
a doti Merikano and one of Kaniké to buy specimens of
workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema
swords, and two equally fine spears, and said that I must not
leave anything; he would buy others with his own goods,
and divide them equally with me: he is very friendly.
River fallen 43 feet since the 5th ult.
A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came
in crowds: a very few from the west bank bring salt to
buy back the baskets from the camp slaves, which they
threw away in panic, others carried a little food for sale,
about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives:
one very beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her
upper arm tied round with leaves. Seven canoes came
instead of fifty; but they have great tenacity and hopeful-
ness, an old established custom has great charms for them,
and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage is
committed. No canoes now come into the creek of death,
but land above, at Ntambwé’s village: this creek, at the
bottom of the long gentle slope on which the market was
held, probably led to its selection.
140 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. V.
A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumbé’s
people preparing a space to build on; when tired, he
refused to commence to dig a pit, and was struck on the
loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out of the
way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried
him: they are too much awed to complain to Dugumbé!!
@aiaiasy
CHAPT Hy Yul
Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
understand Livingstone’s kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo’s.
Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill, Attacked in
the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary escape.
Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for five hours.
Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill. Mamohela. To the
Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe marching.
Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr. Stanley.
Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines to examine
north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the Lusizé. No
outlet. ‘‘ Theoretical discovery ” of the real outlet. Mr. Stanley ill.
Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there. Departure for Unyanyembé
with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game.—Attacked by bees. Serious
illness of Mr. Stanley. 'Thankfulness at reaching Unyanyembé.
20th July, 1871.—I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbe’s
people came to say good bye, and convoy me a little way.
I made a short march, for being long inactive it is unwise
to tire oneself on the first day, as it is then difficult to get
over the effects.
21st July—One of the slaves was sick, and the rest
falsely reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time
to negotiate for women with whom they had cohabited :
Dugumbé saw through the fraud, and said “Leave him to
me : if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we will bury him:
do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body, as
stragelers now are sure to be cut off.” He lost a woman of
his party, who lagged behind, and seven others were killed
besides, and the forest hid the murderers. I was only too
anxious to get away quickly, and on the 22nd started off at
142 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. VI.
daylight, and went about six miles to the village of Mank-
wara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a
cloth if I came across from Lomamé. He wonders much at
the underground houses, and never heard of them till I told
him about them. Many of the gullies which were running
fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a
few drops of rain fell.
23rd—24th July.—We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty
yards, in two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of
denudation, in which it flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds
followed, all anxious to carry loads for a few beads. Several
market people came to salute, who knew that we had no
hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25
miles with loads so heavy no slave would carry them. They
speak of us as “ good:” the anthropologists think that to
be spoken of as wicked is better. Hzekiel says that the
Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
not impart of His goodness to me | shall never be good: if
He does not put of His comeliness on me I shall never be
comely in soul, but be like these Arabs in whom Satan has
full sway—the god of this world having blinded their eyes,
25th July.— We came over a beautiful country yester-
day, a vast hollow of denudation, with much cultivation,
intersected by a ridge some 800 feet high, on which
the villages are built: this is Lobango. The path runs
along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country
below all spread out with different shades of green, as on a
map. The colours show the shapes of the different planta-
tions in the great hollow drained by the Kunda. After
crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into the
Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another inter-
secting ridge, having a great many villages burned by
Matereka or Salem Mokadam’s people, since we passed them
1871.] MANYUEMA MOURNING. 143
in our course N.W. They had slept on the ridge after we
saw them, and next morning, in sheer wantonness, fired their
lodgings,—their slaves had evidently carried the fire along
from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages in
their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was
done only because they could do it without danger of punish-
ment: it was such fun to make the Mashensé, as they call
all natives, houseless. Men are worse than beasts of prey,
if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men. It is
monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under
their own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free
lands, with what slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and
elsewhere.”
26th July—Came up out of the last valley of denu-
dation—that drained by Kahembai, and then along a level
land with open forest. Tour men passed us in hot haste to
announce the death of a woman at their village to her rela-
tions living at another. I heard of several deaths lately of
dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable
of completely hiding the whole person, came next in a
trot to receive the body of their relative and all her gear to
carry her to her own home for burial: about twenty women
followed them, and the men waited under the trees till they
should have wound the body up and wept over her. They
smeared their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot.
Reached our friend Kama.
27th July.—Left Kama’s group of villages and went
through many others before we reached Kasongo’s, and
were welcomed by all the Arabs of the camp at this place.
Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest over Sunday.
(28th and 29th). They asked permission to send a party
with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers,
and perhaps safety too, among the justly irritated people
between this and Bambarré. All are enjoined to help me,
144 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. VI.
and of course I must do the same to them. It is colder
here than at Nyangwé. SKasongo is off guiding an ivory or
slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own
account; he has four guns, and will be the first to maraud
on his own account.
30th July.—They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seven-
teen Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these
are the very first who in modern times have ventured fifty
miles from the place of their birth. I came only three
miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoyé, and slept
at village on a hill beyond it.
31st July—Passed through the defile between Mount
Kimazi and Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalac-
tite pillar in its door a fine echo answers those who feel
inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala’s numerous
villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.
1st August, 1871.—A large market assembles close to us.
2nd August.—Left Mangala’s, and came through a great
many villages all deserted on our approach on account of
the vengeance taken by Dugumbé’s party for the murder
of some of their people. Kasongo’s men appeared eager
to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plan-
tains are here very abundant, good, and cheap. Came to
Kittetté, and lodge in a village of Loembo. About thirty
foundries were passed ; they are very high in the roof, and
thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
would. Rain runs off equally well.
3rd August.—Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon
ivory we wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their
places.
Ihave often observed effigies of men made of wood in
Manyuema; some of clay are simply cones with a small
hole in the top; on asking about them here, I for the
first time obtained reliable information. They are called
1871.] SIGNS OF DANGER. 145
Bathata—fathers or ancients—and the name of each is
carefully preserved. Those here at Kittetté were evidently
the names of chiefs, Molenda being the most ancient,
whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambwé, Nofgo, Au-
lumba, Yengé Yengé, Simba Mayanga, Loembwé, are more
recently dead. They were careful to have the exact pro-
nunciation of the names. The old men told me that on
certain occasions they offer goat’s flesh to them: men eat
it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They
say that if eaten by young men their children will have
the waddling gait of the bird. They say that originally
those who preceded Molenda came from Kongolakokwa,
which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
get even this little bit of history here. (Nkongolo= Deity ;
Nkongolokwa as the Deity.)
4th August—Came through miles of villages all burned
because the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings!
The men had begun to re-thatch the huts, and kept out of
our way, but a goat was speared by some one in hiding, and
we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that he had
no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness
of the people to lodge him and his slaves without payment,
with the certainty of getting their food stolen and utensils
destroyed.
5th and 6th August.— Through many miles of palm-
trees and plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where
we slept, though the people were evidently suspicious and
unfriendly.
7th August—To a village, ill and almost every step in
pain. The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance
armed, and refused to come near—then came and threw
stones at us, and afterwards tried to kill those who went
for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives watching
us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.
VOL, II. L
146 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. VI.
8th August—They would come to no parley. They knew
their advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from
Bin Juma and Mohamad’s men when they threw down
the ivory in the forest. In passing along the narrow path
with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we
came to a point where an ambush had been placed, and
trees cut down to obstruct us while they speared us; but
for some reason it was abandoned. Nothing could be de-
tected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering up
towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen:
this was an infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the
dense vegetation meant a spear.
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1873.] THE BORDERS OF BANGWEOLO. 295
hours, and then lay down quite done. Cooked coffee—our
last—and went on, but in an hour I was compelled to lie
down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on being pressed I
allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama,
where there is much cultivation. We camped in a garden
of dura.
13th April—F ound that we had slept on the right bank
of the Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very
winding, but here going about south-west. The country is
all so very flat that the rivers down here are of necessity
tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and the people
civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of the
character of the chief, and this one, Gondochité, is polite. The
sky is clearing, and the 8.E. wind is the lower stratum now.
It is the dry season well begun. Seventy-three inches is a
higher rainfall than has been observed anywhere else, even
in northern Manyuema; it was lower by inches than here
far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the very
heaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty
and sixty is the maximum.
One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees,
occupying quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way
to bouga or prairie again. The bouga is flooded annually,
but its vegetation consists of dry land grasses. Other bouga
extend out from the Lake up to forty miles, and are known
by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums, rushes
of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic
subaqueous plants which send up their flowers only to
fructify in the sun, and then sink to ripen one bunch after
another. Others, with great cabbage-looking leaves, seem
to remain always at the bottom. The young of fish swarm,
and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of soft moss
grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for
fishes, fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into
their maws.
296 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. XI.
One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a
hook, which enables the animal to hold its mouth close to
the plant as it glides up or down, sucking in all the soft
pulpy food. The superabundance of gelatinous nutriment
makes these swarmers increase in bulk with extraordinary
rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous in
consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets,
and nets now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish
feel their element becoming insufficient for comfort, and
retire from one bouga to another towards the Lake; the
narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take advantage
of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them
and force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current
comes heat and sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed
till the early hours of the morning, and here, after the
turtle doves and cocks give out their warning calls to the
watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable voice. It is
pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if he
were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard,
his weird unearthly voice can never be forgotten—it sticks
to one through life.
We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila,
or Lolotikila, in four small canoes, and then two hours
south-west down its left bank to another river, where our
camp has been formed. I sent over a present to the head-
man, and a man returned with the information that he was
ill at another village, but his wife would send canoes to-
morrow to transport us over and set us on our way to
Muanazambamba, south-west, and over Lolotikila again.
14th April—aAt a branch of the Lolotikila.
15th April.—Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty
yards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being
very weak, had to be carried part of the way. Am glad of
resting; aiua flow copiously last night. A woman, the
_ wife of the chief, gave a present of a goat and maize.
96.
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1873.] ALARMING SYMPTOMS. 207
16th April Went south-west two and a half hours, and
crossed the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush
deep, and flowing fast in aquatic vegetation, papyrus, &c.,
into the Loitikila, In all about three hours south-west.
17th April—A tremendous rain after dark burst all our
now rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 a.m. for three
hours, and I, who was suffering severely all night, had to
rest. We got water near the surface by digging in yellow
sand. Three hills now appear in the distance. Our course,
S.W. three and three-quarter hours to a village on the Kazya
River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought
the heayy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three
sponges.
18th April—oOn leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded
it and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep
all over. A large weir spanned it, and we went on the lower
side of that. Much papyrus and other aquatic plants in it.
Fish are returning now with the falling waters, and are
guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two large
sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travel-
ling S.W. for two hours: very ill all night, but remembered
that the bleeding and most other ailments in this land are
forms of fever. Took two scruple doses of quinine, and
stopped it quite.
19th April—aA fine bracing 8.E. breeze kept me on the
donkey across a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy
soil and much cultivation for an hour and a half, when we
stopped at a large village on the right bank of »* and
men went over to the chief Muanzambamba to ask canoes
to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for
the donkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all
pleasure this exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief to
* He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state he
forgot to ascertain,
298 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuapv. XI.
the eye in this flat upland. Their forms show an igneous
crigin. The river Kazya comes from them and goes direct
into the Lake. No observations now, owing to great weak-
ness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a
burden. Tent gone; the men build a good hut for me and
the luggage. S.W. one and a half hour.
20th April, Sunday.—Service. Cross over the sponge,
Moenda, for food and to be near the headman of these
parts, Moanzambamba. I am excessively weak. Village on
Moenda sponge, 7 A.M. Cross Lokulu in a canoe. The
river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in
marshes two knots from 8.8.E. to N.N.W. into Lake.
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AUTOGRAPH FACSIMILE OF LAST ENTRY
IN LIVINGSTONES NOTE BOOK.
CHAPTER, XIT.
Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi and
Chumah’s additional details. Great agony in his last illness. Carried
across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill of the Four
Rivers. Kalunganjovu’s kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo into the
district of llala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo’s village. Chi-
tambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last night. Livingstone
expires in the act of praying. The account of what the men saw.
Remarks on his death. Council of the men. Leaders selected. The
chief discovers that his guest is dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo.
A separate village built by the men wherein to prepare the body for
transport. The preparation of the corpse. Honour shown by the —
natives to Dr. Livingstone. Additional remarks on the cause of death.
Interment of the heart at Chitambo’s in Ilala of the Wabisa. An
inscription and memorial sign-posts left to denote spot.
[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr.
Livingstone’s diary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-
book which contains them is, by the help of photography,
set before the reader. It is evident that he was unable to
do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark
on the map which he was making the streams which enter
the Lake as he crossed them. From the 22nd to the 27th
April he had not strength to write down anything but the
several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumah give a very
clear and circumstantial account of every incident which
occurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what
they say, after each of the Doctor’s entries. He writes :—]
21st April—tTried to ride, but was forced to lie down,
and they carried me back to vil. exhausted.
[The men explain this entry thus:—This morning the
Doctor tried if he were strong enough to ride on the
3800 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar, XIT.
donkey, but he had only gone a short distance when
he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint,
Susi immediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked
up his cap which had dropped off, while Chumah threw
down his gun and ran to stop the men on ahead, When
he got back the Doctor said, “Chumah, I have lost so
much blood, there is no more strength left in my legs:
you must carry me.” He was then assisted gently to
his shoulders, and, holding the man’s head to steady
himself, was borne back to the village and placed in
the hut he had so recently left. It was necessary to
let the Chief Muanazawamba know what had happened,
and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched a mes-
senger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for
the next day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as
to be able to march: the answer was, “Stay as long as you
wish, and when you want guides to Kalunganjovu’s you
shall have them.” |
_ 22nd April—Carried on kitanda over Buga 8.W. 23.*
[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that
his strength was becoming less and less, and in order to
carry him they made a kitanda of wood, consisting of two
side pieces of seven feet in length, crossed with rails three
feet long, and about four inches apart, the whole lashed
strongly together. This framework was covered with grass,
and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne
between two strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and
on this the exhausted traveller was conveyed to the next
village through a flooded grass plain. To render the kit-
anda more comfortable another blanket was suspended across
the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow the
air to pass under whilst the sun’s rays were fended off from
* Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction,
1873.] THE LAST DAYS. 301
the sick man. The start was deferred this morning until
the dew was off the heads of the long grass sufficiently to
ensure his being kept tolerably dry.
The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused
him the greatest exhaustion as they marched, and they
were glad enough to reach another village in 2} hours,
having travelled S.W. from the last point. Here another
hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not remem-
bered by the men, for the villagers fled at their approach ;
indeed the noise made by the drums sounding the alarm
had. been caught by the Doctor some time before, and he
exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, “ Ah, now we are
near!” Throughout this day the following men acted as
bearers of the kitanda: Chowpéré, Songolo, Chumah, and
Adiamberi. Sowféré, too, joined in at one time. |
23rd April—(No entry except the date.)
[They advanced another hour and a half through the same
expanse of flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small
fish-weirs set in such a manner as to catch the fish on
their way back to the Lake, but seeing nothing of the
owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken to
flight on the approach of the caravan. Another village
afforded them a night’s shelter, but it seems not to be
known by any particular name. ]
24th April—(No entry except the date.)
[But one hour’s march was accomplished to-day, and
again they halted amongst some huts—place unknown.
His great prostration made progress exceedingly painful,
and frequently when it was necessary to stop the bearers
of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from
falling. |
25th April—(No entry except the date.)
[In an hour’s course 8.W. they arrived at a village in
302 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. XII.
which they found a few people. Whilst his servants were
busy completing the hut for the night’s encampment, the
Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the kitanda,
ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief
of the place had disappeared, but the rest of his people
seemed quite at their ease, and drew near to hear what
was going to be said. They were asked whether they
knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise.
The spokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it ;
they themselves, said he, were not travellers, and all those
who used to go on trading expeditions were now dead. In
former years Malenga’s town, Kutchinyama, was the assem-
bling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been swept
off by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best
they could amongst the swamps and inundated districts
around the Lake. Whenever an expedition was organised
to go to the coast, or in any other direction, travellers met
at Malenga’s town to talk over the route to be taken: then
would have been the time, said they, to get information
about every part. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to
dismiss them, and explained that he was too ill to continue
talking, but he begged them to bring as much food as they
could for sale to Kalunganjovu’s. |
26th April—(No entry except the date.)
[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu’s town, the chief
himself coming to meet them on the way dressed in
Arab costume and wearing a red fez. Whilst waiting here
Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads, and,
on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Living-
stone told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity
occurred, as he might run short of goods by the time
they got to Ujiji, and could then exchange them with the
Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way to Zanzibar. |
To-day, the 27th April, 1873, he seems to have been almost
1873.] THE JOURNAL CLOSES. 303
dying. No entry at all was made in his diary after that
which follows, and it must have taxed him to the utmost to
write :—
“Knocked up quite, and remain—recover—sent to buy
milch goats. We are on the banks of the Molilamo.”
They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote.
From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative
of the men. They explain the above sentence as follows:
Salimané, Amisi, Hamsani, and Laedé, accompanied by a
guide, were sent off to endeavour if possible to buy some
milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo.* They could
not, however, succeed; it was always the same story—the
Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent
a substantial present of a kid and three baskets of ground-
nuts, and the people were willing enough to exchange food
for beads. Thinking he could eat some Mapira corn
pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions
to the two women M’sozi and M’toweka, to prepare it for
him, but he was not able to take it when they brought it
to him.
28th April—Men were now despatched in an opposite
direction, that is to visit the villages on the right bank of
the Molilamo as it flows to the Lake; unfortunately they
met with no better result, and returned empty handed.
On the 29th April, Kalunganjovu and most of his people
came early to the village. The chief wished to assist his
guest to the utmost, and stated that as he could not be sure
that a sufficient number of canoes would be forthcoming
unless he took charge of matters himself, he should accom-
pany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an
* The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr. Livingstone’s Map
we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm this pronunciation.—Eb.
304 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. XII.
hour’s march from the spot. “Everything should be done
for his friend,” he said.
They were ready to set out. On Susi’s going to the hut,
Dr. Livingstone told him that he was quite unable to walk
to the door to reach the kitanda, and he wished the men
to break down one side of the little house, as the entrance
was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to bring
it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently
placed upon it, and borne out of the village.
Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they
followed it till they came to a reach where the current was
uninterrupted by the numerous little islands which stood
partly in the river and partly in the flood on the upper
waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and actively
superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone
told his bearers to take him to a tree at a little dis-
tance off, that he might rest in the shade till most of the
men were on the other side. A good deal of care was
required, for the river, by no means a large one in ordinary
times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a false step,
or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the
invalid and the bed also on which he was carried.
The passage occupied some time, and then came the
difficult task of conveying the Doctor across, for the
canoes were not wide enough to allow the kitanda to be
deposited in the bottom of either of them. Hitherto, no
matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit
in the various canoes they had used on like occasions, but
now he had no power to do so. Taking his bed off the
kitanda, they laid it in the bottom of the strongest canoe,
and tried to lift him; but he could not bear the pain of a
hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to Chumah,
in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as
low as possible, so that he might clasp his hands together
behind his head, directing him at the same how to avoid
/
1873.] DISTRESSING DETAILS. 305
putting any pressure on the lumbar region of the back; in
this way he was deposited in the bottom of the canoe, and
quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowpéré, Susi,
Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on
the other side: the kitanda was brought close to the canoe,
so as to prevent any unnecessary pain in disembarking.
Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo’s village,
and superintend the building of another house. For the
first mile or two they had to carry the Doctor through
swamps and plashes, glad to reach something like a dry
plain at last.
It would seem that his strength was here at its very
lowest ebb. Chumah, one of his bearers on these the last
weary miles the great traveller was destined to accomplish,
says that they were every now and then implored to stop
and place their burden on the ground. So great were
the pangs of his disease during this day that he could
make no attempt to stand, and if lifted for a few yards
a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them all exces-
sively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree
stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called
to him, and, on stooping down, he found him unable to
speak from faintness. They replaced him in the kitanda,
and made the best of their way on the journey. Some dis-
tance further on great thirst oppressed him; he asked them
if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a
drop was to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting
too far separated from the party in advance, to their great
comfort they now saw Farijala approaching with some
which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from Chitambo’s
village.
Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would
not complete their task, for again at a clearing the sick
man entreated them to place him on the ground, and to let
him stay where he was. Fortunately at this moment some
VOL. II. x
306 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XII.
of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they
tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be —
in the house that the others had gone on to build, but they
were obliged as it was to allow him to remain for an hour in
the native gardens outside the town.
On reaching their companions it was found that the work
was not quite finished, and it became necessary therefore to
lay him under the broad eaves of a native hut till things
were ready.
Chitambo’s village at this time was almost empty. When
the crops are growing it is the custom to erect little tem-
porary houses in the fields, and the inhabitants, leaving their
more substantial huts, pass the time in watching their crops,
which are scarcely more safe by day than by night; thus it
was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready to
their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where
he lay whose praises had reached them in previous years,
and in silent wonder they stood round him resting on their
bows. Slight drizzling showers were falling, and as soon as
possible his house was made ready and banked round with
earth.
Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and
grass, occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped
end of the hut: in the bay itself bales and boxes were de-
posited, one of the latter doing duty for a table, on which
the medicine chest and sundry other things were placed.
A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door, whilst
the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master’s
wants in the night.
On the 30th Apri, 1873, Chitambo came early to pay a
visit of courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence,
but he was obliged to send him away, telling him to come
again on the morrow, when he hoped to have more strength
to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In the
afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside,
1873.] LAST WORDS. 507
and explained to him the position in which to hold his
hand, that it might lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned
the key.
So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently
took to their huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep
watch, sat round the fires, all feeling that the end could not
be far off. About 11 p.m. Susi, whose hut was close by, was
told to go to his master. At the time there were loud
shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr. Livingstone
said, “Are our men making that noise?” “No,” replied
Susi; “I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring
away a buffalo from their dura fields.” A few minutes after-
wards he said slowly, and evidently wandering, “Is this
the Luapula?” Susi told him they were in Chitambo’s
village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while.
Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said,
“Sikun’gapi kuenda Luapula?” (How many days is it to
the Luapula ?)
“Na zani zikutatu, Bwana” (I think it is three days,
master), replied Susi.
A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed,
half said, “Oh dear, dear!” and then dozed off again.
It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara
again outside the door, “Bwana wants you, Susi.” On
reaching the bed the Doctor told him he wished him to
boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the fire
outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Call-
ing him close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest
and to hold the candle near him, for the man noticed he
could hardly see. With great difficulty Dr. Livingstone
selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his side;
then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to
put another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice,
“All right; you can go out now.” These were the last
words he was ever heard to speak.
x 2
3808 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. XIF.
It must have been about 4 A.m. when Susi heard Majwara’s
step once more. “Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don’t
know if he is alive.” The lad’s evident alarm made Susi
run to arouse Chumah, Chowperé, Matthew, and Muan-
yaséré, and the six men went immediately to the hut.
Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Living-
stone was not lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in
prayer, and they instinctively drew backwards for the instant.
Pointing to him, Majwara said, “ When I lay down he was
just as he is now, and it is because I find that he does not
move that I fear he is dead.” They asked the lad how long
he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was
sure that it was some considerable time: the men drew
nearer.
A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box,
shed a light sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Living-
stone was kneeling by the side of his bed, his body stretched
forward, his head buried in his hands upon the pillow. For
a minute they watched him: he did not stir, there was
no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was
sufficient ; life had been extinct some time, and the body
was almost cold: Livingstone was dead.
His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and
laid him full length on the bed, then, carefully covering him,
they went out into the damp night air to consult together.
It was not long before the cocks crew, and it is from this
circumstance—coupled with the fact that Susi spoke to him
some time shortly before midnight—that we are able to
state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the
Ist of May.
It has been thought best to give the narrative of these
closing hours as nearly as possible in the words of the
two men who attended him constantly, both here and in
the many illnesses of like character which he endured ix
1873.] SOME WORDS IN EXPLANATION. 309
his last six years’ wanderings; in fact from the first moment
of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indis-
pensable that they should come home to state what occurred.
The men have much to consider as they cower around
the watch-fire, and little time for deliberation. They are
at their furthest point from home and their leader has
fallen at their head; we shall see presently how they
faced their difficulties.
Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this dis-
tressing history; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard
to the entire absence of everything like a parting word to
those immediately about him, or a farewell line to his family
and friends at home. It must be very evident to the reader
that Livingstone entertained very grave forebodings about
his health during the last two years of his life, but it is not
clear that he realized the near approach of death when his
malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage.
It may be said, “ Why did he not take some precautions
or give some strict injunctions to his men to preserve his
note-books and maps, at all hazards, in the event of his
decease? Did not his great ruling passion suggest some
such precaution ?”
Fair questions, but, reader, you have all—every word
written, spoken, or implied.
Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past
experience affords it, and it is offered to you by one who
remembers moreover how Livingstone himself used to point
out to him in Africa the peculiar features of death by
malarial poisoning.
In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and
Shiré districts, not a single parting word or direction in any
instance can be recalled. Neither hope nor courage give
way as death approaches. In most. cases a comatose state of
310 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XII.
exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly arrested
by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this
is almost invariably the closing scene.
In Dr. Livingstone’s case we find some departure from the
ordinary symptoms.* He, as we have seen by the entry of
the 18th April was alive to the conviction that malarial
poison is the basis of every disorder in Tropical Africa, and
he did not doubt but that he was fully under its influence
whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a man of less
endurance in all probability would have perished in the
first week of the terrible approach to the Lake, through
the flooded country and under the continual downpour that
he describes. It tried every constitution, saturated every
man with fever poison, and destroyed several, as we shall
see a little further on. The greater vitality in his iron
system very likely staved off for a few days the last state
of coma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to
show us that only a thin margin lay between the heavy
drowsiness of the last few days before reaching Chitambo’s
and the final and usual symptom that brings on uncon-
sciousness and inability to speak.
On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that
they imagine he hoped to recover as he had so often done
before, and if this really was the case it will in a measure
account for the absence of anything like a dying statement,
but still they speak again and again of his drowsiness, which
in itself would take away all ability to realize vividly the
seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last a
flash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind—if so,
what greater consolation can those haye who mourn his loss,
than the account that the men give of what they saw when
they entered the hut ?
Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risen
* The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the case.
1873.] REFLECTIONS. dll
to pray; he still rested on his knees, his hands were clasped
under his head: when they approached him he seemed
to live. He had not fallen to right or left when he
rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change
of limb or position; there was merely the gentle settling
forwards of the frame unstrung by pain, for the Trayeller’s
perfect rest had come. Will not time show that the men
were scarcely wrong when they thought “he yet speaketh”
—aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have
done by word or pen or any other means!
Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used
fervent prayer of the wanderer sped forth once more—that
the constant supplication became more perfect in weakness,
and that from his “loneliness” David Livingstone, with a
_ dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom He laboured
to break down the oppression and woe of the land ?
* * * * *
Before daylight the men were quietly told in each
hut what had happened, and that they were to assemble.
Coming together as soon as it was light enough to see,
Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to
be present whilst the boxes were opened, so that.in case
money or valuables were in them, all might be responsible.
Jacob Wainwright (who could write, they knew) was asked
to make some notes which should serve as an inventory, and
then the boxes were brought out from the hut.
Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged
that his travelling equipment should be as compact as
possible. An old friend gave him some exceedingly well-
made tin-boxes, two of which lasted out the whole of his
travels. In these his papers and instruments were safe from
wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against
more than anything else. Besides the articles mentioned
below, a number of letters and despatches in various stages
were likewise enclosed, and one can never sufficiently extol
312 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XII.
the good feeling which after his death invested all these
writings with something like a sacred care in the estimation
of his men. It was the Doctor’s custom to carry a small
metallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have
come to hand filled from end to end, and as the men pre-
served every one that they found, we have a daily entry
to fall back upon. Nor was less care shown for his rifles,
sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicine
chest.
Jacob’s entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made
at the back end of the same note-book that was in use by
the Doctor when he died. It runs as follows :—
“11 o'clock night, 28th April.
“In the chest was found about a shilling and half,
and in other chest his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of
measuring instrument, and in each box there wasone. 1
compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4 other
kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3
drachmas and half half scrople.”
A word is necessary concerning the first part of this.
It will be observed that Dr. Livingstone made his last note
on the 27th April. Jacob, referring to it as the only indi-
cation of the day of the month, and fancying, moreover, that
it was written on the preceding day, wrote down “28th -
April.” Had he observed that the few words opposite the
27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalun-
ganjovu’s village, and not to any portion of the time at
Chitambo’s, the error would have been avoided. Again,
with respect to the time. It was about 11 o’clock p.m. when
Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time is
noted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what
Majwara said, that death did not take place till some hours
after.
1873.] A UNANIMOUS RESOLVE. 313
It was not without some alarm that the men realised their
more immediate difficulties: none could see better than they
what complications might arise in an hour.
They knew the superstitious horror connected with the
dead to be prevalent in the tribes around them, for the
departed spirits of men are universally believed to have
vengeance and mischief at heart as their ruling idea in the
land beyond the graye. All rites turn on this belief. The
religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those
who show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy,
as war comes or an accident happens.
On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief
and people make common cause against those who wander
through their territory, and have the misfortune to lose one
of their party by death. Who is to tell the consequences ?
Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences,
and the men regarded their position with no small appre-
hension.
Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah
placed the state of affairs before them, and asked what
should be done. They received a reply from those whom
Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which was
hearty and unanimous. “You,” said they, “are old men in
travelling and in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and
we will promise to obey whatever you order us to do.”
From this moment we may look on Susi and Chumah as
the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the
country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but,
above all, to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was
maintained throughout, their safe return to Zanzibar at the
head of their men must, under God’s good guidance, be
mainly attributed.
All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance
of Dr. Livingstone’s decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy
would be inflicted upon them as compensation for damage
314 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XII.
done that their means would be crippled, and they could
hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It was decided
that, come what might, the body must be borne to Zanzibar.
It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a
hut at some distance off, where the necessary preparations
could be carried out, and for this purpose some men were
now despatched with axes to cut wood, whilst others went
to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, and said
that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he
would allow it, for they did not like living amongst the
huts. His consent was willingly given.
Later on in the day two of the men went to the people
to buy food, and divulged the secret: the chief was at
once informed of what had happened, and started for the
spot on which the new buildings were being set up. Ap-
pealing to Chumah, he said, “ Why did you not tell me the
truth? I know that your master died last night. You
were afraid to let me know, but do not fear any longer. I,
too, have travelled, and more than once have been to Bwani
(the Coast), before the country on the road was destroyed
by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in
coming to our land, and death often happens to travellers
in their journeys.” Reassured by this speech, they told
him of their intention to prepare the body and to take it
with them. He, however, said it would be far better to bury
it there, for they were undertaking an impossible task; but
they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to
the new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered
with cloth and a blanket.
2nd May, 1873.—The next morning Susi paid a visit to
Chitambo, making him a handsome present and receiving
in return a kind welcome. It is only right to add, that the
men speak on all occasions with gratitude of Chitambo’s
conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous
fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all
Page 315.
Tree with inscription.
Stockade around the body
VOL, Il.
TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE’S BODY WAS PREPARED.
1873.] CHITAMBO MOURNS FOR HIS FRIEND. old
honours should be shown to the dead, and the customary
mourning was arranged forthwith.
At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and
accompanied by his wives, came to the new settlement. He
was clad in a broad red cloth, which covered the shoulders,
whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth, worn round the
waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows, arrows, and
spears, but no guns were seen. ‘T'wo drummers joined in
the loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses.
itself on the memories of people who have heard it in the
East, whilst the band of servants fired volley after volley
in the air, according to the strict rule of Portuguese and
Arabs on such occasions.
As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.
A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the
principal one. It was constructed in such a manner that
it should be open to the air at the top, and sufficiently
strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast to break
through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were
planted side by side and bound together, so as to make a
regular stockade. Close to this building the men con-
structed their huts, and, finally, the whole settlement had
another high stockade carried completely around it.
Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse
on the following morning. One of the men, Saféné, whilst
in Kalunganjovu’s district, bought a large quantity of salt :
this was purchased of him for sixteen strings of beads,
there was besides some brandy in the Doctor’s stores,
and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in
their object.
Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had
picked up some knowledge of the method pursued in
making post-mortem examinations, whilst a servant to a
doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras, one of the
Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this,
316 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XII,
however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived.
He came with the anklets which are worn on these occa-
sions, composed of rows of hollow seed-vessels, fitted with
rattling pebbles, and in low monotonous chant sang, whilst
he danced, as follows:
Lélo kwa Engérésé,
Muana sisi oa konda:
Tu kamb’ tamb’ Engérésé.
which translated is—
To-day the Englishman is dead,
Who has different hair from ours :
Come round to see the Englishman,
His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him
in the ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.
The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were
soon afterwards taken to the place prepared. Over the
heads of Farijala and Carras—Susi, Chumah, and Muanya-
séré held a thick blanket as a kind of screen, under which
the men performed their duties. Tofiké and John Wain-
wright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to
bring his Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the
wall of the enclosure.
In reading about. the lingering sufferings of Dr. Living-
stone as described by himself, and subsequently by these
faithful fellows, one is quite prepared to understand their
explanation, and to see why it was possible to defer these
operations so long after death: they say that his frame was
little more than skin and bone. Through an incision care-
fully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt
was placed in the trunk. All noticed one very significant
circumstance in the autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as
large as a man’s hand, lay in the left side,* whilst Farijala
* It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstone pro-
fessionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that the dss
cause of death was acute splenitis.—Ep,
1873.] THE PREPARATION OF THE CORPSE. 317
pointed to the state of the lungs, which they describe as
dried up, and covered with black and white patches.
The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed
in a tin box, which had formerly contained flour, and
decently and reverently buried in a hole dug some four feet
deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob was then asked
to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of
all. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun,
No other means were taken to preserve it, beyond placing
some brandy in the mouth and some on the hair; nor can
one imagine for an instant that any other process would
have been available either for Europeans or natives, con-
sidering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men
kept watch day and night to see that no harm came to their
sacred charge. Their huts surrounded the building, and
had force been used to enter its strongly-barred door, the
whole camp would have turned out in a moment. Once a
day the position of the body was changed, but at no other
time was any one allowed to approach it.
No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen
days’ exposure. At the end of this period preparations were
made for retracing their steps. The corpse, by this time
tolerably dried, was wrapped round in some calico, the legs
being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the package.
The next thing was to plan something in which to carry
it, and, in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable
substitute was found by stripping from a Myonga tree
enough of the bark in one piece to form a cylinder, and
in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece of
sailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed
securely to a pole, so as to be carried by two men.
Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription
on the large Myula tree which stands by the place where
the body rested, stating the name of Dr. Livingstone and
the date of his death, and, before leaving, the men gave
318 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuap. XII.
strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared
away, so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually
sweep over the country and destroy so many trees. Besides
this, they erected close to the spot two high thick posts,
with an equally strong cross-piece, like a lintel and door-
posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the tar
that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will
remain for a long time from the solidity of the timber.
Before parting with Chitambo, they gave him a large tin
biscuit-box and some newspapers, which would serve as
evidence to all future travellers that a white man had been
at his village.
The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the
tree and the timber sign-posts from being touched, but
added, that’ he hoped the English would not be long in
coming to see him, because there was always the risk of an
invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the tree
might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all
trace would be lost. All was now ready for starting.
@r 816°")
CHAP TERR XO
They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the men.
Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a lion.
A disaster at N’Kossu’s. Native surgery. Approach Chawende’s town.
Tnhospitable reception. An encounter. They take the town. Leave
Chawende’s. Reach Chiwaie’s. Strike the old road. Wire drawing.
Arrive at Kumbakumba’s. John Wainwright disappears. Unsuc-
cessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the Lake. Cross the
Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News of EHast-Coast
Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They reach Baula. Avant-
couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chumah meets Lieutenant
Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr. Dillon. Clever pre-
cautions. The body is effectually concealed. Girl killed by a snake.
Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks.
THE homeward march was then begun. Throughout its
length we shall content ourselves with giving the approxi-
mate number of days occupied in travelling and halting.
Although the memories of both men are excellent—stand-
ing the severest test when they are tried by the light of Dr.
Livingstone’s journals, or “set on” at any passage of his
travels—they kept no precise record of the time spent at
villages where they were detained by sickness, and so the
exactness of a diary can no longer be sustained.
To return to the caravan. They found on this the first
day’s journey that some other precautions were necessary to
enable the bearers of the mournful burden to keep to their
task. Sending to Chitambo’s village, they brought thence
the cask of tar which they had deposited with the chief,
and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This
320 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XIII.
answered all purposes; they left the remainder at the
next village, with orders to send it back to head-quarters,
and then continued their course through Ilala, led by their
guides in the direction of the Luapula.
A moment’s inspection of the map will explain the line of
country to be traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled
with Dr. Livingstone in the neighbourhood of the north-
west shores of Bangweolo in previous years. The last fatal
road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any
serious misfortune ; but in order to do this they must first
strike northwards so as to reach the Luapula, and then
crossing it at some part not necessarily far from its exit
from the Lake, they could at once lay their course for the
south end of Tanganyika.
There were, however, serious indications amongst them.
First one and then the other dropped out of the file, and
by the time they reached a town belonging to Chitambo’s
brother—and on the third day only since they set out—half
their number were hors de combat. It was impossible to
go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The
symptoms were intense pain in the limbs and face, great
prostration, and, in the bad cases, inability to move. The
men attributed it to the continual wading through water
before the Doctor’s death. They think that illness had
been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that
the previous days’ tramp, which was almost entirely through
plashy Bougas or swamps, turned the scale against them.
Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one
leg, and then quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly
died. Kaniki and Bahati, two of the women, expired in a
few days, and all looked at its worst. It took them a good
month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and
the natives day by day brought an abundance of food to the
1873. ] ALL ARE TAKEN ILL. o2l
sick men. From them they heard that the districts they
were now in were notoriously unhealthy, and that many an
Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an
excursion to the westward, and on their return reported a
large deep river flowing into the Luapula on the left bank.
Unfortunately no notice was taken of its name, for it would
be of considerable geographical interest.
At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of
the border villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day
several fell ill for the second time, Susi being quite unable
to move.
Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred,
was fully aware of everything that had taken place at
Chitambo’s, and showed the men the greatest kindness.
Not a day passed without his bringing them some present
or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Living-
stone’s death. Some return for their kindness was made by
Farijala shooting three buffaloes near the town: meat and
goodwill go together all over Africa, and the liberal sports-
man scores points at many a turn. A cow was purchased
here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twen-
tieth day all were sufficiently strong on tlieir legs to push
forwards.
The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon
hove in sight. Putting themselves under a guide, they
were conducted to the village of Chisalamalama, who will-
ingly offered them canoes for the passage across the next
day.*
As one listens to the report that the men give of this
* The men consider it five days’ march “ only carrying a gun” from
the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula—this in rough reckoning, at the
rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150 miles.—Ep.
VOL. 1I. Y
B22 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. ([Cuar. XIII.
mighty river, he instinctively bends his eyes on a dark
burden laid in the canoe! How ardently would he have
scanned it whose body thus passes across these waters, and
whose spirit, in its last hours’ sojourn in this world, wandered
in thought and imagination to its stream!
It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double
the width of the Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a
breadth of fully four miles. A man could not be seen
on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across
the river—such is the description given by men who were
well able to compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking
to the canoes, they were able to use the “m’phondo,” or punt-
ing pole, for a distance through reeds, then came clear deep
water for some four hundred yards, again a broad reedy
expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn
by another current not so broad as those previously paddled
across, and then, as on the starting side, gradually shoal-
ing water, abounding in reeds. ‘Two islands lay just above
the crossing-place. Using pole and paddle alternately, the
passage took them fully two hours across this enormous
torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards
the north.
A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camp-
ing beyond the Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried
servant was doomed to end his career at this spot!
According to custom, a special stable was built for
him close to the men. In the middle of the night a
great disturbance, coupled with the shouting of Amoda,
aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching some
logs, they set fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by
the light saw a lion close to the body of the poor animal,
which was quite dead. Those who had caught up their
guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the lion made off.
VY
1873. ] A NIGHT ATTACK. O2E
It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the nose,
and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the
guns had taken effect. The lion’s blood lay in a broad track
(for he was apparently injured in the back, and could only
drag himself along); but the footprints of a second lion were
too plain to make it advisable to track him far in the thick
cover he had reached, and so the search was abandoned.
The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
remained near the village, and it is most probable that it
went to make a feast at Chisalamalama’s.
An old Servant destroyed.
Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were
fain to make their next stopping-place in a spot where an
enormous ant-hill spread itself out,—a small island in the
waters. A fire was lit, and by employing hoes, most of
y 2
324 LIVINGSTONE’S LAST JOURNALS. [Cuar. XIII.
them dug something like a form to sleep in on the hard
earth.
Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them
next day to the village of Kawinga, whom they describe as
a tall man, of singularly light colour, and the owner of a
oun, a unique weapon in these parts, but one already
made useless by wear and tear. The next village, N’kossu’s,
was much more important. The people, called Kawendé,
formerly owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced :
the Banyamwesi have put them under the harrow, and but
few herds remain. We may call attention to the some-
what singular fact, that the hump quite disappears in the
Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable short-
horns.*
A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems
that the rule, “first catch your hare,” is in full force in
N’kossu’s pastures. The animals are exceedingly wild, and
a hunt has to be set on foot whenever beef is wanted ;- it
was so in this case. Saféné and Muanyaséré with their
guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old
hunter as we have seen, was not likely to do much harm;
but Saféné, firig wildly at the cow, hit one of the villagers,
and smashed the bone of the poor fellow’s thigh. Although
it was clearly an accident, such things do not readily settle
themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would
have to be paid on the return of the wounded man’s
father, and it had better be handed to him, for by law the
blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the man who
had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had
* This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi and
Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borne
by the short-horns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds near Lake
Bemba.—Eb.
1873. ] THE BROKEN THIGH. 325
ordered all his people to stand clear of the spot where the
disaster occurred, but he supposed that in this instance his
orders had not been heard. They had not sufficient goods
in any case to respond to the demand; the process adopted
to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery, which
must not be passed over.
y
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Kawendé Surgery.
First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in
length, in such a manner that the patient could sit in it
with his legs out before him.
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HISTORY OF THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
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