UC-NRLF

E73

GIFT OF
DALIUDA COTEY

MAIN LIBRARY

LESSONS IN COOKERY,

HAND-BOOK

OF THE

- ---

NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY

(SOUTH KENSINGTON, LONDON).

TO WHICH IS ADDED

THE PRINCIPLES OF DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

BY THOMAS K. CHAMBERS, M. D.

EDITED BY

ELIZA; A. YOUMANS. ,.. ; .

NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,

649 AND 551 BROADWAY.

1879.

*<

COPTBIGHT BT

D. APPLETON & COMPANY,

1878.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

THE present work on cookery appeared in England under the
title of " The Official Hand-Book of the National Training School for
Cookery," and it contains the lessons on the preparation of food
which were practised in that institution. It has been reprinted
in this country with some slight revision, for the use of American
families, because of its superior merits as a cook-book to be con-
sulted in the ordinary way, and also because it is the plainest, sim-
plest, and most perfect guide to self-education in the kitchen that
has yet appeared. In this respect it represents a very marked
advance in an important domestic art hitherto much neglected.

A glance at its contents will show the ground it covers, and how
fully it meets the general wants. The dishes for which it provides
have been selected with an unusual degree of care and judgment.
They have been chosen to meet the needs of well-to-do families, and
also those of more moderate means, who must observe a strict econ-
omy. Provision is made for an ample and varied diet, and for meals
of a simple and frugal character. Receipts are given for an excellent
variety of soups, for cooking many kinds of fish in different ways, for
the preparation of meats, poultry, game, and vegetables, and for a
choice selection of entries, souffle's, puddings, jellies, and creams.
Besides the courses of a well-ordered dinner, there are directions
for making rolls, biscuits, bread, and numerous dishes for breakfast
and tea, together with a most valuable set of directions how to pre-
pare food for the sick. The aim has been to meet the wants of the
great mass of people who are not rich enough to abandon their
kitchen to the management of professional cooks, and who must keep
a careful eye to expense. But while the costly refinements of artis-

418543

Iv PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

tic and decorative cookery are avoided, there has been a constant ref-
erence to the simple requirements of good taste in the preparation
of food for the table.

But the especial merit of this volume, and the character by which
it stands alone among cook-books, is the superior method it offers
of teaching the art of practical cookery. It is at this vital point
that all our current cook-books break down ; they make no provi-
sion for getting a knowledge of this subject in any systematic way.
So much in them is vague, so much taken for granted, and so much
is loose, careless, and misleading in their receipts, that they are
good for nothing to teach beginners, good for nothing as guides to
successful practice, and only of use to those who already know
enough to supply their deficiencies and protect themselves against
their errors. In fact, the hand-book required to teach cookery
effectually cannot be made by any single person in the usual man-
ner, but it must be itself a product of such teaching.

The present volume originated in this way, and embodies a
tried and successful method of making good practical cooks. The
lessons given in the following pages came from a training kitchen
for pupils of all grades, and the directions of its receipts are so mi-
nute, explicit, distinct, and complete, that they may be followed
with ease by every person of common-sense who has the slightest
desire to learn. They are the results of long and careful practice in
teaching beginners how to cook, and have grown out of exercises
often repeated with a view of making them as perfect as possible.
It is commonly regarded as a good thing in a cook-book that its
compiler has tested some of its receipts and points out the troubles
and failures likely to occur in early trials. But the completeness
of the instructions in this work was attained through the stupidities,
blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties of hundreds of learn-
ers of all capacities, doing the work over and over again under the
critical direction of intelligent, practical teachers, who were bent
upon finding out the best method of doing each thing, and the best
method of teaching others how to do it. Not a single item neces-
sary to perfect the required process is omitted. The steps are sep-
arated, and given in numerical order, so as to enforce attention to
one thing at a time, and the right thing at the right time, while the
precautions against mistakes are so careful that even the dullest can
hardly go wrong. Each receipt in the volume is not only the formula

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. V

for a dish, but it is also a lesson in a practical process, so that in the
preparation of every article of food something is gained toward
greater proficiency in the art of cooking well.

A few words in regard to the origin of the school in which it was
produced will still further illustrate the character of this work. A
vigorous movement has been made in England to elevate this branch
of domestic economy by establishing schools for training pupils in
the art of cookery. These schools have grown immediately out of
the need of greater general economy among the working classes, as
it was seen that the high prices of provisions were seriously aggra-
vated by not knowing how to make the most of them in their kitch-
en preparation. The attention of the managers of the South Ken-
sington Museum of Arts in "West London was several years ago
drawn to the subject ; and feeling that something required to be done,
they established public lectures on the preparation of food with plat-
form demonstrations of various culinary operations. But it was
quickly found that mere exposition and illustration, though not
without use, were wholly inadequate to the object in view ; because
a cooking school, .to be thorough, must provide for practice. Lectur-
ing, and explaining to pupils, and barely showing them how things
are done, is sure to fail because cookery, like music, can only be
learned by actually doing it. As well undertake to teach the piano
by talking and exhibiting its capabilities as to teach a person how to
make a dish properly by only listening and looking on. Provision
had therefore to be made for forming classes to do themselves what
they at first only saw others do.

But this task was by no means an easy one. There were no pre-
existing plans to follow ; qualified teachers and suitable text-books
were wanting ; it was an expensive form of education ; the public
thought it a doubtful innovation; and educational authorities dis-
couraged it. But the parties interested decided that the time had
come for a systematic and persistent effort. They felt their way
cautiously, and in 1874 organized classes for graded courses of prac-
tice. The object was to give women the best possible instruction in
practical cookery, and for this purpose the school was open to all.
But to make its work most largely useful, it was constituted as a
Normal School for training teachers to go out and establish other
cooking schools in different parts of the country. This has been
since done with the most encouraging success, so that there are

vi PREFACE. TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

, already a large number of cooking schools in England connected with
the National or Common School system.

As no cook-book to be found was worth anything to aid the
practical instruction proposed, the teachers had to take this matter
in hand at the outset. They began by drawing up a careful set of
directions to be followed by the learners in doing their work. For
each lesson in all the grades each pupil was furnished with a printed
sheet of these directions, stating the ingredients of each dish to be
prepared, the quantities and separate cost of these ingredients, what
was to be done first, what next, and so on through the whole series
of operations, nothing being assumed as known, and all the minute
steps being indicated in the order that was found best. These guides
were necessarily imperfect at first, and were subject to constant re-
vision and extension as experience suggested corrections; in fact,
they embodied the progress of the school in the successful attainment
of its object. At each new printing the improvements that had been
made were incorporated, and only after years of trial were these
guides to practice at length combined and issued in a book-form.
The lessons or receipts of this volume were all slowly elaborated in
this painstaking manner, and the mode of working proved perfectly
successful with the pupils. It was easy and pleasant, yet careful and
thorough, and secured a rapid and gratifying proficiency. 1

In saying that the South Kensington Cooking School has been
successful, I speak from direct knowledge of it. I was a pupil there
for several weeks, and carefully observed its operations. The classes
showed the most extraordinary mental and social diversity. There
were cultivated ladies, the daughters of country gentlemen, old house-
keepers, servants, cooks, and colored girls from South Africa, togeth-
er with a large proportion of intelligent young women who were
preparing to become teachers. They worked together with a har-
mony and good feeling that, I confess, somewhat surprised me, but

1 The honor of contributing chiefly toward the establishment of this school and super-
intending its development is due to Sir Henry Cole, the able director and master mind of
the Bouth Kensington Museum. By his firm purpose and excellent judgment a novel
experiment, surrounded by many difficulties, became a recognized success and a great
national benefit. The "Lessons" were gradually brought into shape by the teachers,
under the supervision of the accomplished daughter of Sir Henry Cole, whose initials
(R. O. C.) were appended to them as revised for use in the school, and are also sub-
scribed to the English Preface of this work.

,

PREFACE TO THE AMERICA^EDlMNl -7< //QtYfp^Qj

they were all closely occupied and thoroughly interested ina TfoiSttJ^jg *>
object. There were teachers to provide materials, to plan the daily *i
work, to direct operations, and to be consulted when necessary; but
the admirable method adopted left each learner to go through her
task with but a small amount of assistance. Indeed, the complete-
ness of the directions in hand seemed to assure the success of every
pupil from the start. There was, of course, a difference in dexterity,
and in facility of work previously acquired ; but raw beginners went
on so well that they were astonished at what they found themselves
able to do.

American ladies when looking over these lessons are apt to smile
at their extreme simplicity and triviality, but it must be remembered
that the difference between good and bad cookery is very much a
matter of attention to trifles. Slight mistakes, small omissions,
little things done at the wrong time, spoil dishes. The excellence
of these lessons consists in their faithfulness in regard to minutiae,
and the habits they enforce of attention to trifling particulars. They
make no claim to literary merit. The receipts are homely, direct, and
meant only to be easily and distinctly understood. They are full of
repetitions, because processes are constantly repeated, and it was
necessary that the directions in each receipt should be full and
complete. They are not enticing reading, because they were made
to work by. The book, in fact, belongs in the kitchen where cook-
ery is done ; and it is now republished because its success there has
been demonstrated. Many hundred persons totally ignorant of the
subject have become efficient and capable cooks by pursuing the
mode of practice here adopted by going through these lessons
and the same results can be obtained by pursuing the same method
anywhere. American housekeepers who have any real interest in
home improvement, and are willing to take a little pains to instruct
their daughters or their servants in the art of cooking well, will
find the volume an adequate and invaluable help toward the attain-
ment of this object. It will prove a useful text-book in the cooking
schools and young ladies' cooking clubs that are springing up in this
country, and classes could be advantageously formed, by its help,
for kitchen practice in every female seminary.

In revising these lessons but very slight changes have been made,
and those only of form. The prices of articles, an important feat-
ure in the original work, and essential in the cooking school, have

PKEFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

been omitted, as they do not apply in this country ; and American
prices have not been substituted because they vary so much in differ-
ent localities. As the lessons were furnished on separate sheets for
daily use in the school, they all took the form of the following ex-
ample, and have been modified in the manner shown by referring
to the same lesson on page 180 of the present volume :

MAYONNAISE SAUCE.

Average cost of Mayonnaise Sauce (about half a pint).

INGREDIENTS.

Salt and pepper j

1 teaspoonful of French vinegar ("

1 teaspoonful of mustard >

1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar \ ^

1 gill of salad oil 6

10*
Tijie required, about 10 minutes.

Now we will show you how to make Mayonnaise Sauce.

1. We take two eggs and put the yolks in one basin and the whiles (which
will not be wanted) into another basin.

2. We take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough to break them.

3. We add to them a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper
and a tablespoonful of 1 French vinegar.

4. We take a bottle of salad oil, and, putting our thumb half over the
top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring well with a whisk the whole time ;
a gill of oil will be sufficient.

ST. B. We might add a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard or tarragon vinegar
if liked, stirring it in smoothly.

5. The saitce is now ready for use.

Now it is finished.

It has been suggested that the volume ought to be Americanized
by omitting some of the English receipts that are but little used in
this country, and substituting others for special American dishes.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. i x

But this suggestion involves a total misconception of the character of
the work, which is valuable solely on account of the qualities it de-
rives from the experience of the Training School. As American
dishes are not used in England, there were of course no " lessons "
in their preparation. Common receipts would be out of place in the
following pages, and receipts for American dishes could not be prop-
erly introduced until they had been assimilated to the plan and pecul-
iarities of the work. There are many hundred good English receipts
that will be sought in vain in the volume; and those who refer to it
to find the last new things in American cookery will of course he
disappointed. It is not a receipt-book, but a book to show how to
use and improve receipts ; or, as stated in the English preface, it is
not a dictionary of reference, but rather a grammar of processes. Its
merit is that it offers an improved mode of kitchen practice ; and, as
the principles and conditions of good cookery are everywhere the
same, all that is characteristic of the volume is just as applicable and
valuable in this country as in England.

As the subject of cookery is in close relations with that of diet, I
have aimed to increase the usefulness of the present work by appending
a valuable essay upon " Diet in Health and Disease," the latest that
has appeared, and by an eminent living authority on dietetical ques-
tions. Dr. Chambers is the author of various able works on the uses
and effects of food, and in this article, which he recently contributed
to the new edition of the " Encyclopaedia Britannica," he has summed
up in an admirable manner the leading facts and principles of modern
dietetical science. Hints derived from this essay will often be found
of much service in directing housekeepers as to what it is best to
cook, and in the composition of meals in various circumstances,
with reference to occupation, enjoyment, and health.

E. A. Y.

NEW YORK, August, 1878.

PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

I. THIS work has been written to explain in an easy way the first
principles of good Cookery, and in the form of lessons is especially
addressed to those who wish to carry them into practice. It has
been the aim of the writer to leave no detail, however small, vaguely
stated. It is taken for granted that the learner has no knowledge on
the subject. The loose expressions, such as "a pinch," "a little,"
found in all cookery books, are therefore avoided, and precise quanti-
ties are given.

II. The work is not to be regarded as an exhaustive cookery book
with numerous recipes. It aims to be rather a grammar than a dic-
tionary.

III. The lessons give a sufficient number of examples of cookery
illustrating many degrees of cost : thus the rich may have a dish of
curried rabbit for 3s. 8d., and the poor may have a dish of curried
tripe for lOfd.

IV. The work has been used and tested in the National Training
School for Cookery since 18T5, and the instructors now employed in
local schools throughout the country have been taught and practised
by means of these lessons.

Y. It has been found that it is most convenient to practise the
lesson with the instructions in sight close at hand. An edition of
each lesson has been printed on separate sheets of thick paper, for
the use of students and teachers, which may be obtained at the Na-
tional Training School for Cookery, or at any of the local schools.

VI. The writer requests that the notice of any errors and omis-
sions which are inevitable in a work of this kind may be communi-
cated to R. O. C., at the National Training School for Cookery, Ex-
hibition Road, London, S. W.

R. O. 0.

July, 187T.

CONTENTS.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION ..... i".
PREFACE . . . . . . x.

CHAPTER I.
ON CLEANING RANGES, STOVES, AND KITCHEN UTENSILS . I

Lesson 1. To Clean a Kitchen Kange or Stove, 1 ; 2. To Clean a Gas-Stove, 8 ;
8. To Clean an Iron Saucepan, 3 ; 4. To Clean a Copper Stewpan, 4.

CHAPTER II.
THE COMMON PROCESSES OF COOKERY .... 5

Lesson 1. Boasting, 5; 2. Boiling, 7; 3. Baking, 10; 4. Frying, and Clarifying
Butter, Fat, and Dripping, 12.

CHAPTER III.
THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT . . . . . .15

Lesson 1. Hashed Meat, 15; 2. Meat Fritters, 18; 3. Goblet Pie, 20; 4. Curry,
22; 5. Shepherd's Pie, 23; 6. Fried Eissoles, 24; 7. Minced Meat, 26.

CHAPTER IV.

Lesson 1. Curry, 28; 2. Quenelles of Veal, 31; 3. Braised Fillets of Beef, 34;
4. Mutton Cutlets, 36; 5. Chaudfroid of Chicken, 38; 6. Veal Cutlets, 39; 7.
Fricassee of Chicken, 42; 8. Beef Olives, 45 ; 9. Irish Stew, 47 ; 10. Haricot Mut-
ton, 48; 11. Croquettes of Chicken, 50; 12. Curried Rabbit, 52.

Xll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

PAGE

STEWS ......... 54

Lesson 1. A-b-Mode Beef, 54; 2. Brazilian Stew, 56; 3. Irish Stew, 57; 4.
Stewed Brisket of Beef, 58.

CHAPTER VI.
TRIPE ......... 60

Lesson 1. Curried Tripe, 60; 2. Tripe in Milk, 62 ; 3. Tripe a la Coutance, 63.

CHAPTER VII.

THE COOKING OF MEAT ...... 66

Lesson 1. Braised Fillets of Veal, 66; 2. Koast Bullock's Heart, 68; 3. Cornish
Pasties, 71; 4. Broiled Steak, 72; 5. Liver and Bacon, 73; 6. Meat Pie (Beef-
Steak), 74; 7. Meat Pudding, 76; 8. Pig's Fry, 79; 9. Boiled Pig's Head (salted)
with Onion Sauce, 80; 10. Pork Pie, 83; 11. Sausage Eolls, 85; 12. Sea He, 87;
13. Sheep's Head, 88; 14. Stewed Steak, 92 ; 15. Toad-in-the-Hole, 94.

CHAPTER VIII.
COOKING POULTRY . . . . . . .95

Lesson 1. Trussing a Fowl for Eoasting, 95 ; . Trus sing a Fowl for Boil-

CHAPTER IX.
STOCK AND SOUP ....... 104

Lesson 1. Stock, 104; 2. Vegetable Stock, 106; 3. Clear Soup, 107; 4. Tapioca
Cream, 111 ; 6. Bonne Femme Soup, 112 ; 6. Puree of Potatoes, 114 ; 7. Spring
Vegetable Soup, 115; 8. Giblet Soup, 117; 9. Mock-Turtle Soup, 119; 10. Pot-au-
feu, or Soup, 121; 11. Dr. Kitchener's Broth, 124; 12. Crowdie, 125; 13. Milk
Soup, 126 ; 14. Cabbage Soup, 127 ; 15. Pea Soup, 128 ; 16. German Pea Soup, 129 ;
17. Macaroni Soup, 180.

CHAPTER X.
FISH . . . * . . . . .132

Lesson 1. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce, 132; 2. Fish Pudding, 135; 3.
Whitebait, 138 ; 4. Sole au Gratin, 139 ; 5. Fillets of Soles a la Maitre d'HStel, 141 ;
6. Fried Soles, 142 ; 7. Lobster Cutlets, 144 ; 8. Boiled Codfish and Oyster Sauce,
147 ; 9. Broiled Salmon and Tartare Sauce, 149 ; 10. Baked Mackerel or Herring,
151 ; 11. Baked Stuffed Haddock, 152; 12. Fish Baked in Vinegar, 153 , 13. Fried
Plaice, 154; 14. Boiled Fish, 155.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

PAQB

VEGETABLES ........ 157

Lesson 1. Boiled and Steamed Potatoes, 157 ; 2. Mashed, Saut6, and Baked
Potatoes, 159 ; 3. Fried Potatoes, 161 ; 4. Potato Croquettes, 163 ; 5. Brussels
Sprouts, 165 ; 6. Carrots and Turnips, 166 ; 7. Boiled Cauliflower and Cauliflower
au Gratin, 167 ; 8. Spinach, 169 ; 9. Peas, 171 ; 10. Haricot Beans, 172 ; 11. Tur-
nips, 173; 12. Carrots, 174 ; 13. Eice, 174 ; 14. Macaroni, 176; 15. Stewed Mac-
aroni, 177.

CHAPTER XII.
SAUCES ........ 178

Lesson 1. White Sauce, 178; 2. Brown Sauce, 179; 8. Mayonnaise Sauce, 180;
4. Sauce Piquante, 181 ; 5. Dutch Sauce, 182.

CHAPTER XIII.
PASTRY ........ 183

Lesson J. Puff-Paste, 183 ; 2. Short Crust, 186; 3. Genoese Pastry, 188; 4.
Eough Puff-Paste, 189; 5. Suet Crust for Beef-Steak Pudding, 190; 6. Short
Crust for Apple Turnovers and Apple Dumplings, 192 ; 7. Flaky Crust for Pies
and Tarts, 195.

CHAPTER XIV.
PUDDINGS ........ 197

Lesson 1. Cabinet Pudding, 197; 2. Lemon Podding, 198; 3. Apple Char-
lotte, 199; 4. Pancakes, 201; 5. Eice Pudding, 202; 6. Custard Pudding, 203; 7.
Plum Pudding and Wine or Brandy Sauce, 208 ; 8. Vennoise Pudding, 206 ; 9.
Amber Pudding, 207 ; 10. Brown-Bread Pudding and German Sauce, 209 ; 11.
Carrot Pudding, 210 ; 12. Alexandra Pudding, 211 ; 13. Blanc-Mange, 213 ; 14.
Boiled Batter Pudding, 214; 15. Corn-Starch Pudding, 215; 16. Batter Pudding,
216; 17. Corn-Starch Pudding, 217; 18. Eice Pudding, 217 ; 19. Curate's Pud-
ding, 218; 20 Bread Pudding, 219 ; 21. Treacle Pudding, 220 ; 22. Plum Pudding,
221 ; 23. Tapioca and Apples, 223 ; 24. Invalid Pudding, 224 ; 25. Semolina Pud-
ding, 226; 26. Batter and Fruit, 226; 27. Cold Cabinet Pudding, 228; 28. Suet
Pudding, 229; 29. Yorkshire Pudding, 230.

CHAPTER XV.
DUMPLINGS ........ 282

Lesson 1. Hard Dumplings, 232; 2. Norfolk Dumplings, 288.

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

PAGE

JELLIES . . .234

Lesson 1. Wine Jelly, 234 ; 2. Aspic Jelly, 237 ; 8. Iceland Moss, 241 ; 4. Milk
Jelly, 242 ; 5. Ox-Foot Jelly, 244 ; 6. Apple Jelly, 246.

CHAPTER XVII.
CREAMS ........ 250

Lesson 1. Vanilla Cream, 250 ; 2. Strawberry Cream, 252 ; 3. Charlotte Russe, 258.

CHAPTER XVIII.
SOUFFLES ........ 255

Lesson 1. Vanilla Souffle, 255 ; 2. Cheese Souffle, 25S; 8. Potato Souffle, 260;
4. Omelet Souffle, 261 ; 5. Savory Omelet, 263 , 6. Cheese Straws, 264.

CHAPTER XIX.
PICKLES ........ 266

Lesson 1. Pickle for Meat, 266 ; 2. Pickled Cabbage, 26T.

CHAPTER XX.
CAKES . . . . . . . .269

Lesson 1. Sultana Cake, 269; 2. German Pound Cake, 270; 3. Plain Cake,
271; 4. Seed Cake, 272; 5. Plum Cake, 273; 6. Corn-Starch Cake, 274; 7. Dough
Cake, 275 ; 8. Shrewsbury Cake, 276 ; 9. Hock Cake, 277 ; 10. Gingerbread Nuts,
278.

CHAPTER XXI.
BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. . . . . . 279

Lesson 1. Buns, 279; 2. Eice Buns, 281; 3. Milk Biscuits, 282; 4. Oatmeal
Biscuits, 283; 5. Scones, 284; 6. Short Bread, 285; 7. Milk Eolls, 285; 8. York-
shire Tea-Cakes, 286 ; 9. Bread, 287 ; 10. Unfermented Bread, 289.

CHAPTER XXH.
SICK-ROOM COOKERY ....... 291

Lesson 1. Chicken Panada, 291 ; 2. Beef Essence, 292 ; 8. Cream of Barley,
293 ; 4. A Cup of Arrow-Boot and Arrow-Boot Pudding, 294 ; 5. Rice- Water,
i95; 6. Barley- Water, 296; 7. Apple- Water, 297 ; 8. Lemonade, 298 ; 9. Toast

CONTENTS. xy

PAQB

and Water, 298; 10. Gruel, 299; 11. White- Wine Whey, or Treacle Posset, 300 ;
12. Bran Tea, 300; 13. Mutton Broth, 301 ; 14. Mutton Broth, 303 ; 15. Beef Tea,
804; 16. Beef Tea, 305; 17. Liebig's Quick Beef Tea, 806 ; 18. Savory Custard, 807.

CHAPTER XXIII.
CANNED MEATS ....... 308

Lesson 1. Mulligatawny, 809 ; 2. Brown Pur6e, 811 ; 3. Irish Stew, 312 ; 4. Sau-
eage Rolls, 313; 5. Curried Rabbit, 315 ; 6. Meat Pie, 317; 7. Fricassee of Mutton,
318; 8. Rissoles, 320 ; 9. Savory Hash, 322 ; 10. Mince Meat, 824.

DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE ..... 329

LIST OF UTENSILS, MATERIALS, ETC. . . . . .373

INDEX . 375

LESSONS IN COOKEEY.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

ON CLEANING RANGES, STOVES, AND KITCHEN
UTENSILS.

LESSON FIRST.
TO CLEAN A KITCHEN RANGE OR STOVE.

1. Dump the grate, and, with the poker, carefully re-
move the clinkers that adhere to the fire-brick.

2. Shovel into a scuttle the ashes, clinkers, and cinders
or partially-burned coal.

N. B. These should be sifted. Throw away the ashes and clinkers, but
save the cinders, to use in kindling fires.

3. Take a brush or wing, and sweep down all the soot
from the flues and oven.

N. B. This should be done every day, when bituminous coal is burned ;
but if anthracite coal is used, the flues will not need cleaning oftener
than once in two weeks. 1 Wood-stoves should be cleaned as often as
once a week.

1 Directions for keeping ranges and stoves in order are usually furnished
by the dealer ; and as they vary with the construction, they may be appealed
to for more specific instructions.

2 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Mix some stove-polish in an earthen dish, with
enough water to make it into a smooth liquid.

5. Dip the blacking-brush in the mixture, and cover
with it the whole of the range, working from the top
downward.

6. When the blacking is dry, rub it all over with a dry
brush.

7. Then take another brush and polish the range all
over, so as to make it quite bright.

8. Now sweep the soot and dust from the stove and the
hearth.

9. Steel handles and bolts may be polished by rubbing
with emery-paper, but brass handles and bolts should be
polished with both brick-dust and a leather. .

10. To clean the slate or limestone hearth in front of the
range, get a flannel and a pail of hot water; put in it
some soda, and wash the hearth all over.

11. Then wring the flannel out in hot water and smooth
the hearth over, rubbing lightly all in one direction.

12. Black-lead and polish the inside of the fender in the
same way as you did the range, and brighten the rim of it
with emery-paper.

TO KINDLE A FIKE.

1. Place a few sifted cinders at the bottom of the
grate.

2. Then put in some crumpled paper and arrange sticks
over it, laying them across each other. For kindling an-
thracite coal, hard wood should be added. Charcoal is
sometimes used in place of wood, and is better, when it
can be afforded.

3. Place a few cinders above the wood, and light the
paper at the bottom.

CLEANING KITCHEN UTENSILS. 3

4. When the wood is well on fire, put on a small quan-
tity of coal, and wait till it is thoroughly heated and be-
ginning to burn before more is added.

LESSON SECOND.
TO CLEAN A GAS-STOVE.

1. Lift out the rest at the top.

2. Wash the top of the stove and the rest with a flan-
nel dipped in hot water and soda, so as to remove all grease
and dirt ; then wring out the flannel, and partially dry the
top of the stove.

3. Now cover with stove-blacking, and polish in the
same way as the kitchen range.

N. B. Be careful not to stop up the gas-holes with the stove-polish.

4. Sweep away the soot and dust, and put the rest back
over the stove.

LESSON THIRD
TO CLEAN AN IRON SAUCEPAN.

1. Wash the saucepan well in hot water and soda.

N. B. All the black should be removed from the outside and bottom.

2. Soap the palm of one hand, or a brush, and rub the
inside of the saucepan.

N. B. In washing any greasy utensil, it is best, if possible, to use the
hand instead of a flannel, as the latter retains the grease, and so
keeps putting the grease on again, instead of rubbing it off.

3. Mix some sand and powdered soda together, and
then dip the soaped hand or brush into it, and rub the in-
side of the saucepan until it is quite clean and bright.

LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. JSTow rinse it in water and dry it with a cloth.

5. Clean the lid in the same way.

N. B. A white enameled stewpan is cleansed in the same way. Great
care should be taken to remove all the stains off the white enamel
inside.

N. B. Salt might be mixed with the sand, and used to remove the
stains from the enamel.

LESSON FOURTH.
TO CLEAN A COPPER STEWPAN.

1. Mix some sand and salt together on a plate half the
quantity of salt to that of sand.

2. Wash the stewpan well in hot water and soda.

3. Soap the hand, or a brush, dip it in the salt and sand,
and rub the inside of the pan until all stains are removed
and it has become clean and bright.

4. Rinse it out well in the water, dry the inside quickly,
and then turn over the pan and clean the copper outside.

5. Rub it in the same way with a soaped hand, or a
brush dipped in sand and salt.

N". B. If there are many stains on it, an old half lemon, or vinegar,

might be used to remove them.
N. B. Only the copper part should be cleaned with lemon or vinegar.

6. Now rinse it again thoroughly, and dry it quickly
with a cloth.

CHAPTER II.
ROASTING, BOILING, BAKING, FRYING.

LESSON PIEST.
BOASTING.

To Roast Meat at an open range :

1. Take your joint say a leg of mutton.

2. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it
with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth.

N. B. As a rule, meat should not be washed in water, as it takes
some of the goodness out. If meat has been kept some time, and
is not quite fresh, then you might wash it with a little vinegar and
water, but it must be well wiped afterward.

3. With a sharp knife cut off the knuckle-bone from
the leg of mutton.

N. B. Put aside the knuckle-bone. It can be used with beef for
beef-tea, or be put in the stock-pot ; or the trimmings and one pint
of water will make gravy for your joint when done, allowing it to
boil while the joint is roasting.

4. Trim off the piece of flank^ and remove the thick
piece of skin from the part where the leg joins the loin.

6 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

(These trimmings must be put aside, as they can be used
for other purposes.)

5. Now weigh the leg of mutton, so as to find out how
long it will take to roast it, as a quarter of an hour is
allowed for each pound-weight, and one quarter of an hour
besides.

N. B. When you have a joint without bone, such as rolled ribs of beef
or topside of beef, allow twenty minutes to each pound, as it is all
solid meat.

6. Take the leg of mutton, which weighs say seven
pounds, and will therefore require two hours to roast.

7. Put the tin oven * in front of the fire.

8. See that the dripping-pan is in the oven with the
dripping-ladle.

9. Take the hook of the oven, or of the roasting-jack,
if you have one, and pass it through the knuckle-end of
the leg.

10. Wind up the jack with the key before you put the
joint on, so as to make it twist the meat round.

11. Put the joint close to the fire for the first five
minutes.

12. After that time, draw it a little back, or it will cook
too quickly, and become burnt and driedv

N. B. Meat that is frozen must be placed some way from the fire at
first, and then drawn gradually toward it, as it must thaw slowly, or
it may become tough.

1 In this country, tin ovens placed before the fire take the place of the
English screen and roasting-jack. These ovens are made in various ways,
but they all have a door at the back for basting, a hook in the centre from
which the meat is suspended, and a dripping-pan in the bottom. A French
roasting-jack may take the place of the simple hook, and with this you may
proceed with the roasting according to the directions given above. There
are stoves and ranges so made that tin ovens for roasting can be securely
fastened to the front, and taken away when not in use.

ROASTING AND BOILING. 7

13. Baste the joint every five minutes with the drip-
pings that run from it into the pan, using the dripping-
ladle.

14. Let it roast for two hours, as its weight is seven
pounds.

15. Just before you dish up the joint, you must sprinkle
about a saltspoonful of salt over, and then baste it well.

16. Warm a large dish.

17. Take the hook of the jack and place the joint on
the hot dish, and draw out the hook.

18. Pour about a gill of hot stock into the dish. (This
makes the gravy, and when the joint is cut, the juices
from the meat will add to it.)

19. Cut a piece of demy-paper like a fringe, and put it
round the end of the knuckle-bone.

N. B. The dripping in the pan should be poured into a basin, and
when it is cold, there will be under the crust of dripping a good
gravy. When the dripping is required for use, it must be carefully
removed from the top of the gravy and clarified (see Lesson on
" Frying "). Nearly all joints can be roasted in this way. Attention
should be paid to the rules given above for joints of meat without
bone.

LESSON SECOND.
BOILING.

To Boil Meat:

1. Give attention to the fire, and build it up gradu-
ally with small pieces of coal, so as to make it burn clear
and bright.

2. You must not have a smoky fire for boiling, or the
meat will get smoked. Start with a good fire, and keep
it up by adding occasionally small coal, and so prevent
smoke as much as possible.

N. B. You do not require such a clear, bright fire as for roasting.
2

8 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Take a saucepan sufficiently large to hold the joint
to be cooked.

4. Fill the saucepan almost full of cold water, and put
it on the fire to warm.

N. B. Salt should always be added to the water in the saucepan to
make the water taste, unless the meat to be cooked is already
salted, in which case it should be omitted.

5. Now take the joint, say, for example, a piece of the
silver-side of beef, salted.

6. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape
it with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth.

N. B. Meat should not, as a rule, be washed in water, as it takes some
of the goodness out. Meat that has been kept some time, and is
not quite fresh, might be washed with vinegar and water, but it
must be well wiped afterward.

N. B. Salt meat must not be washed with vinegar and water, but only
with salt and water.

7. Now weigh the piece of salt beef, so as to find out
how long it will take to boil, as ten minutes .are allowed
for each pound of 'meat.

N. B. This rule refers to the boiling of all meat except pork, which
requires fifteen minutes to each pound of meat.

A. In boiling fresh meat to be eaten, the joint should be first
plunged into boiling water, in order that the albumen on the outside
of the joint may become hardened, and so prevent the escape of the
juices of the meat.

B. The temperature of the water should then be lowered gradually
(by adding a small quantity of cold water and drawing the sauce-
pan to the side of the fire), and the meat allowed to simmer gently,
or it will become tough.

C. In boiling meat for the purpose of making soup, the meat should
be put into cold water, in order to extract all the goodness from it.

D. The water should be brought gradually to boiling point, then
moved to the side of the fire, and left to simmer gently for some
length of time.

BOILING. 9

N. B. Salt meat must be put into loarm ivatcr, so as to extract a little
of the salt before the pores of the skin are closed up. If the meat
were" put into boiling water, the pores of the skin would be closed,
and the meat would be hardened by the salt not being allowed to
escape.

8. When the water in the saucepan is warm, take the
"beef, which weighs say eight pounds (it will therefore
take about one hour and twenty minutes), and put it in
the saucepan. There should be only just enough water to
cover the joint.

9. Let the water just boil up, and then move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently
for the remainder of the time.

10. As soon as the water comes to the boil, you must
take a large spoon and skim it carefully.

N. B. The scum should be skimmed off directly it rises, or it will boil
down again in the meat and spoil it. Scum is the impurity which
rises from the meat.

N. B. Be very careful not to let the meat boil, or it will be hardened
and tough.

11. When the meat is sufficiently cooked, take it care-
fully out of the saucepan, and put it on a hot dish for
serving. Pour about a gill of the liquor (in which it was
boiled) round the joint. (This makes the gravy, and
when the joint is cut, the juices from the meat will add
to it.)

N. B. The liquor from boiled meat can always be used for different
purposes, and should therefore never be thrown away, but poured
into a clean basin and put aside to cool. The fat should be carefully
removed from the top of the liquor while it is cold, before being
used. Salt liquor is often used for making pea-soup.

10 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD.
BAKING MEAT, BKEAD, PASTRY, ETC.

To Bake Meat :

1. You must have a good fire, and keep it up, adding
by degrees small pieces of coal, as the oven is required to
be very hot.

N. B. If it is a close range with which you are dealing, you should
pull out the damper placed over the oven, in order to draw all the
heat of the fire toward the oven. The ventilator x of the oven
should be closed.

N. B. In kitchen stoves there is usually either a handle at the top
of the oven, to be pulled out for opening the ventilator, or a slide-
ventilator at the bottom.

2. Test the heat of the oven by the thermometer,
which is fixed in the door of the oven. The heat should
rise to 240 Fahr.

3. See that the joint is clean, as directed in the Les-
son on " Roasting," Note 2. Weigh it, to find out how
long it will take to bake, as ten minutes are allowed foi
each pound of weight.

N. B. When you have a joint without bone, you must allow about fif-
teen minutes to each pound of weight, as it is solid meat.

4. Take the hot-water tin on which the stand for the
meat is placed, lift up the upper tin or tray, and fill the

1 As a rule, American ranges and stoves are not supplied with a separate
arrangement for ventilating the ovens. The heat is usually controlled by
opening and closing the damper in front of the fire. Ability to manage a
range or stove in this respect comes only with experience. But in all our
generally-approved ranges and stoves a competent cook can obtain well-
baked meat, such as is described in this lesson, by making the oven very hot
at first, and after a little, partially or wholly closing the damper, to lessen
combustion.

BAKING MEAT. 11

under tin half full of warm water ; then fit on the upper
tin.

N. B. In one corner of the upper tin is a small hole for the escape of
steam. The water must only just reach this hole, and not come
into it.

N. B. The water is placed in the tin to prevent the tin and the meat
from getting burnt, and so causing a disagreeable smell.

5. Place the stand on the hot-water tin, to raise the
joint and prevent it from standing in its own dripping,
which would sodden and spoil the meat.

6. ISTow take the joint, which weighs say seven pounds
(it will, therefore, take one hour and ten minutes to lake),
and put it on the stand. Dredge flour over it.

7. Put the tin, with the meat, in the oven. The oven
should be kept very hot for the first five minutes, in order
to form a brown crust on the outside of the joint, to keep
in the juices of the meat ; after that time the ventilator
of the oven should be opened, so as to allow the steam to
escape, or the meat would get sodden ed.

N. B. Meat that is frozen must be gradually warmed to thaw it, be-
fore shutting it up in the hot oven, or it will be tough.

8. Baste the joint every fifteen minutes with the
drippings that run from the meat into the pan, using the
dripping-ladle.

N. B. Joints that are not very fat must be even more frequently
basted, or they will burn. If there is not enough dripping from
the meat, a little extra dripping should be put in the pan.

N. B. Joints that have no fat should be covered with a piece of
whity-brown paper which has been spread with butter or dripping ;
it will prevent the meat catching too quickly.

9. Turn the joint over occasionally, as the upper side
will brown quicker than the under.

12 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

N. B. Potatoes, washed and peeled, or a small suet or dripping and
flour pudding (see " Puddings," Lesson 28), or a Yorkshire pudding
(see " Puddings," Lesson 29), might be baked under the meat ; but
they should be put in only half an -hour before the meat is finished.

10. Just before you dish up the joint, sprinkle a salt-
spoonful of salt over it, and then baste it well.

11. Serve the joint on a hot dish (as described in the Les-
son on " Koasting," Note 18), and act with regard to the
dripping according to N. B. after Note 19.

N. B. Pastry or bread, etc., should not be baked in the oven at the
same time as the meat, for the steam would prevent their baking
properly. For baking small patties or tartlets made of puff-paste,
the heat of the oven should rise to 300 Fahr. For meat-pies, tarts,
etc., the heat should rise to 280, and be reduced, after a quarter
of an hour, to 220.

LESSON FOURTH.
FETING, AND THE CLARIFYING OF BUTTEE, FAT, AND DEIPPING.

The principles of Frying :

1. You must have a clear, bright fire.

N. B. Be very careful it is not smoky.

2. Be careful that the utensil used is very clean ; for if
there is anything sticking at the bottom of the pan, it will
quickly catch or burn, and so spoil the contents.

3. Clarify all fat (not lard ), dripping ', and butter be-
fore using them, to remove the impurities from the former,
and the buttermilk and other watery substance from the
latter.

N.B. Fat need not be clarified more than once. After using it,
always pour it off carefully in a basin, and, when it is cold, remove
the sediment from the bottom of the cake vifat. Sutler must be
clarified each time it is used, to remove all watery substances.

FRYING AND CLARIFYING. 13

4. You must have the fat very hot ; good frying de-
pends on the fat being properly heated.

5. You should test the heat of the fat by a frimome-
ter, if possible. The heat should rise to 345 Fahr. for
ordinary frying, and 400 for whitebait.

N. B. If there is no frimometer, the heat of the fat may be tested by
the look as fat gets quite still and begins to smoke when it is
very hot or by throwing in a small piece of crumb of bread ; and
if it fries directly a light brown, the fat is ready for use.

6. Use a deep pan, with plenty of fat, so that anything
put in may be entirely covered.

7. You can fry bacon in its own fat ; it only requires
watching and turning till it is done (see Lesson on " Liver
and Bacon," from Note 1 to Note 5).

8. You may fry chops or steaks, or slices of meat, in
an ounce of either clarified dripping or lutter.

9. Melt the fat first, but it does not require to be
heated.

10. Be watchful, when the meat is frying, not to allow
it to burn ; you should turn it over occasionally.

N. B. If there is a gridiron, it is much better to broil chops and
steaks, as it prevents their being greasy (see Lesson on a " Broiled
Steak "). For frying Fish, see " Fish," Lessons Nos. 3, 6, 7, and
1 3. For frying Meat, Rissoles, Potatoes, etc., see " Cooked Meat,"
Lessons Nos. 2 and 6 ; "Australian Meat," Lesson No. 8 ; " Entrees,"
Lessons Nos. 4 and 1 1 ; and " Vegetables," Lessons Nos. 3 and 4.

To render down or clarify fat :

1. Take any scraps of cooked or uncooked fat, and cut
them up in small pieces.

2. Put the pieces in an old but clean saucepan, and
pour in just enough cold water to cover them.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and keep it boiling ;

14 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

it will take about an hour. The lid should be off the
saucepan.

4. Stir the fat occasionally, to prevent it from burning,
or sticking to the bottom of the saucepan.

5. When the water has evaporated, and the pieces of
fat are cooked, pour the melted fat through an old sieve
into a basin, and, when cold, it can be used for all frying
purposes, instead of lard.

To clarify dripping :

1. Put the dripping in the saucepan, and put it on the
fire to boil.

2. When it boils, pour it into a basin, in which there
should be half a pint of cold water.

3. When the dripping is cold, take a knife and cut
round the edge, so as to take out the cake oj dripping.

4 Scrape off all the sediment that will be found on the
bottom of the cake, and wipe it dry with a cloth.

To clarify butter :

1. Put the quantity of butter required for present use
in a small saucepan, and put it on the fire and let it boil.

2. When the butter has boiled, take a spoon and re-
move the white scum from the top.

3. Then pour the clear butter carefully into the pan for
use, as below the butter will be a little more watery sub-
stance.

CHAPTER III.
THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT.

LESSON FIRST.
HASHED MEAT. 1

Ingredients. One pound of scraps of cold meat. Two small onions. One-
half a turnip. One bunch of herbs. 2 About a tablespoonful of flour.
One dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup. Sippets of bread. Salt and
pepper. Half an ounce of butter.

Time required, about two hours ; or, if the stock for the gravy is already
made, then only half an hour.

To Hash Cold Meat :

1. Take any remains of cold meat, cut off all the meat
from the bone, and cut it into thin slices.

2. Chop the bone in pieces, and put them into a sauce-
pan.

3. Peel one onion, and cut it in quarters.

1 The food called " Hash " in this -country is more like the English minced
meat (see Lesson No. 7, on " Re-cooked Meat ").

2 This means a small handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram,
one or both, and one bay-leaf. The parsley should be washed, the dried
herbs placed in the midst of it, and the ends of the parsley should be folded
around them, making a bunch about three inches long. Tie with a string,
and trim away any leaves that might break off if left. This is known among
cooks as a " bouquet garni," or " faggot."

16 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Wash and scrape one carrot, and cut it in quarters.

5. Peel half a turnip, and cut it in half.

6. Wash a sprig of parsley, and dry it on a cloth.

7. Take one 'bay-leaf, one sprig of marjoram and
thyme, and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with
a piece of string.

8. Put the herbs and vegetables into the saucepan with
the bones, and cover them with cold water.

9. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, add
pepper and salt, according to taste.

10. Now put the lid on, and move the saucepan to
the side of the fire, to stew gently for one hour, or
one hour and a half ; watch it, and skim it occasion-
ally.

11. Take a small onion, peel it, and cut it in slices.

12. Put half an ounce of butter into a frying-pan.

13. Put the pan on the fire, and, when the butter
is melted, add the sliced onion, and let it fry a nice
brown.

14. Shake the pan occasionally, to prevent the slices of
onion from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning.

15. When the onion is sufficiently browned, strain off
the butter, and put the onion on to a plate.

16. Wheti the bones have stewed long enough, strain off
the liquor into a basin.

17. Wash out the saucepan, and pour back the liquor.

18. Put a tablespoonful of flour into a small basin.

19. Add a tablespoonful of the liquor to the flour, and
stir it into a smooth paste.

20. Stir this paste gradually into the liquor in the sauce-
pan.

21. Add the browned onion and a dessertspoonful of
mushroom catsup.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 17

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the sauce until
it boils and thickens.

23. Let it boil for two or three minutes, until the flour
is cooked.

N. B. Be careful to stir the sauce smoothly while it boils, or it will
be lumpy.

24. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and,
when it is off the boil, lay in the pieces of meat, to warm
through.

N". B. Do not let the sauce boil while the meat is in it, or the meat
will get hard and tough.

25. Cut a thin slice of "bread into square pieces.

26. Cut these square pieces in half, cornerwise, making
the pieces into triangles.

27. Put one ounce of clarified dripping (see Lesson on
" Frying") in a frying-pan, to melt.

28. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the sippets
of toead, and let them fry a light brown.

29. Turn them, so that they will get browned on each
side.

30. Put a piece of kitchen-paper * on a plate, and, when
the sippets are fried, turn them on to the paper to drain
off the grease.

N. B. If liked, the bread could be toasted before the fire, instead of
fried ; in which case it should be cut into sippets after it is toasted.

31. For serving, put the slices of meat on a hot dish in
the centre, strain the sauce over them, and put the sippets
of oread round the edge of the dish.

1 Kitchen-paper is unsized white paper, such as is used for wall-paper. It
is common in English kitchens, and very convenient for many purposes.

18 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SECOND.
MEAT FRITTERS.

Ingredients. Slices of cold meat. Six ounces of flour. One tablespoon-
ful of salad oil. Two eggs. Dripping for frying.

Time required, about half an hour (and one hour for the baiter to rise).

To make " Meat Fritters " i. e., meat fried in batter :

1. Put six ounces of flour and half a salirspoonful of
salt into a basin.

2. Add a tablespoonful of salad oil y and mix the flour
into a smooth paste.

N. B. Be careful that the oil is sweet. One ounce of melted butter
can be used instead.

3. Now stir in smoothly, by degrees, half a pint of
tepid water. Be careful that there are no lumps.

4. Break two eggs ; put the whites on a plate. (The
yolks should be put in a cup, as they will not be required
for present use.)

5. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over the
whites of the eggs, and whip them to a stiff froth with a
knife.

6. Stir the whipped whites of the eggs lightly into the
latter.

N. B. In winter, clean snow might be used in the batter, instead of
the whites of eggs.

N. B. This batter might be made without the whites of eggs, in
which case'it should be mixed with half a pint of beer, instead of
the water ; but the batter made with beer will not rise as much as
when eggs are used.

N. B. The beer will not taste after the batter is fried.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 19

7. Stand the batter aside for one hour to rise, or until
required for frying but it should not stand longer than
two hours.

8. Put half a pound of clarified dripping (see Lesson
on " Frying " ) into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to
heat.

9. Take some cold meat, and cut it up into thin slices.

N. B. Cold boiled or roast pork, or boiled bacon, is very nice fried
in batter.

10. "When the batter has risen, and the fritters are re-
quired for use, stir the batter lightly with a spoon, so as to
be sure that there are no lumps settled at the bottom.

11. When the dripping is quite hot and smoking, take
the slices of meat, dip them in the latter so as to quite
cover them, and then drop them into the hot fat.

N. B. Do not put in too many slices at a time, as they should not
touch each other.

12. Turn them over, so that they will fry to a nice
brown on both sides.

13. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate.

14. As the fritters are fried, take them carefully out of
the fat with a perforated spoon, and put them on the paper,
to drain off the grease.

N. B. Be careful to skim the fat from time to time, or the little loose
pieces of batter will burn, and spoil the fat.

N. B. Slices of apple or orange can be fried in this batter in the
same way, only that the batter should be sweetened, and sugar
sprinkled over the fritters when they are fried.

N. B. Fish can be fried in batter the same way, only that the batter
is usually made with beer, instead of white of egg.

15. For serving, turn the fritters on to a hot dish.

20 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD.
GOBLET PIE.

Ingredients. Any scraps of cold meat. Two tablespoonfuls of chopped
suet, two of moist sugar, two of currants, two of plums, and two of
chopped apples. A quarter of a pound of flour. A quarter of a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder. One ounce of dripping.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make "Goblet Pie":

1. Take any scraps of cold meat (even the smallest
scraps, that would not do for anything else), put them
on a board, 1 and chop them up as finely as possible.
(There should be about two tablespoonfuls of chopped
meat.}

2. Take about two ounces of suet, put it on a board,
cut away the skin, and chop it up very finely. (There
should be about two tablespoonfuls.)

3. Peel two small apples, cut out the core, and chop
them up finely. (There should be about two tablespoon-
fuls.)

4. Take two tablespoonfuls of plums, stone them, and
chop them in small pieces.

5. "Wash two tablespoonfuls of currants, dry them in
a cloth, and pick them over.

6. Put all" these ingredients into a basin with two table-
spoonfuls of moist sugar, and mix them all well together
with a spoon.

1 When only small quantities of things are to be made fine, it is very con-
venient to place them upon a board, and, taking a sharp knife, hold down
the free end of the blade with the left hand, and chop by moving the handle
rapidly up and down with the right hand. Some cooks chop in this way
upon the table, but a board is preferable.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 21

7. Turn the mixture into a small pie-dish.

8. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a basin, and
mix into it a few grains of salt, and a quarter of a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder.

9. Take one ounce of clarified dripping, and rub it
well and lightly into the flour with your hands, until it
resembles sifted ^read-crumbs.

10. Add to it sufficient water to mix it into a stiff paste.

11. Flour a board, and turn the paste out on it.

12. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to
the shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to about
a quarter of an inch in thickness.

13. Wet the edge of the pie-dish with water.

14. Take a knife, dip it in flour ^ and cut a strip of the
paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it
round the edge of the dish.

15. Cut this strip of paste from round the edge of the
paste, leaving the centre piece rather larger than the top
of the pie-dish.

16. Wet the edge of the paste with water.

17. Take the remaining piece of paste and place it over
the pie-dish, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

N. B. Be very careful not to break the paste.

18. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and trim off all the
rough edges of fas paste round the edge of the dish.

19. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make
little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste
firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place.

20. Make a little hole with the knife in the centre of
the pie, to let the steam out while the pie is baking.

21. Put the pie into the oven (the heat should rise to
220), to bake for half an hour.

22 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON FOURTH.
CURRY.

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. Two ounces of clarified dripping, or
butter. Two apples. One onion. One dessertspoonful of curry-powder.
Salt.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make a "Curry":

1. Put two ounces of clarified dripping, or butter, into
a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

2. Take one onion, peel it, put it on a board, and chop
it up as finely as possible.

3. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the chopped
onion to brown. Be careful it does not burn.

4. Shake the saucepan occasionally, to prevent the
onion from sticking to the bottom.

5. Take the cold meat and cut it up into small pieces.

6. Peel one small apple, take out the core, and chop it
up very finely on a board.

7. When the onion is sufficiently brown, strain it off,
and pour the dripping back into the saucepan.

N. B. Put the browned onion on a plate.

8. Now put the pieces of cold meat into the saucepan,
and let them brown on both sides.

9. Add one dessertspoonful of curry -powder, the
chopped apple, and a little salt, according to taste.

10. Now pour in half a pint of cold water, and put
back the lyrowned onion.

N. B. If the onion had been left in while the meat was browning, it
would have got burnt.

11. Stir smoothly and carefully until it boils, and then
move it to the side of the fire, to simmer for half an hour.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 23

12. The lid should be off the saucepan, as the sauce is
to reduce. 1

13. For serving, we take the meat out of the saucepan,
and put it on a hot dish and pour the sauce over it.

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the Curry (see "Vegeta-
bles," Lesson 13).

LESSON FIETH.

PHERD'S ]

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. One small onion. Pepper and salt.

One and a half pound of potatoes. One ounce of butter. One-half a

gill of milk.
Time required, about an hour and a half.

To make " Shepherd's Pie " :

1. Take one and a half pound of potatoes, wash them,
and boil them as described (see "Vegetables," Lesson
Fo. 1).

N. B. This quantity of potato will cover a quart pie-dish.
N. B. Any remains of cold potatoes should be used, instead of boiling
fresh ones.

2. Put one ounce of butter and half a gill of milk into
a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Put the boiled potatoes into another saucepan, and
mash them up with a fork or spoon.

4. When the milk boils, pour it into the mashed pota-
toes, and stir them into a smooth paste.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes
just boil. Be careful they do not burn.

6. Take any scraps of cold meat, cut them in small
pieces, and put them in a pie-dish in layers.

1 To reduce a sauce, is to boil it down to the requisite thickness.

24 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. If there is not much fat with the meat, mix with
it a few slices of pork-fat.

8. Take one small onion, peel it, and chop it up as
finely as possible on a board.

9. Sprinkle each layer of meat with plenty of pepper
and salt, and a little of the chopped onion.

10. Fill the dish half full of cold water.

N. B. If there is any cold gravy, it would, of course, be better than

the water.
N. B. The pie-dish should be quite full of meat, and rather heaped

in the centre, so as to raise the crust of potato.

11. Take the mashed potato and put it over the top of
the meat, smoothing it over neatly with a knife.

12. Take a fork, and mark all over the top of the potato.

N. B. If liked, the mashed potato might be mixed with half its weight
of flour into a dough, to make a more substantial crust ; it must
then be rolled out with a rolling-pin, like pastry.

13. Put the pie-dish into the oven, or into a tin oven
in front of the fire, for half an hour, to brown the crust
of potato and warm the meat through.

LESSON SIXTH.
FKIED KISSOLES.

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat, two ounces. Two tablespoonfuls of
chopped suet ; two of bread-crumbs ; two of chopped parsley. One
tablespoonful of chopped marjoram and thyme. Two eggs. Crumb of
bread. Salt and pepper. Use of dripping for frying. (This quantity
makes about eight.)

Time required, about half an hour.

To make " Rissoles " with cold meat :
1. Put about half-pound of clarified dripping into a
saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 25

2. Take some scraps of cold meat, and chop them up
as finely as possible on a board. When chopped, there
should be about two tablespoonfuls.

3. Cut away the skin from two ounces of suet, put it
on a board, and chop it up as finely as possible. There
should be two tablespoonfuls.

4. Grate some crumbs of bread on to a piece of paper.

N. B. More than tioo tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs will be required,
as the rissoles should be dipped in bread-crumbs before they are
fried.

5. Wash two or three sprigs of parsley, and dry it in
a cloth.

6. Chop it up finely on a board. There should be two
tablespoonfuls.

7. Take a sprig of marjoram and a sprig of thyme,
take away the stalks, and rub the leaves through a strainer,
or chop them up finely on a board.

N. B. The stalks of the Jierbs are bitter to the taste, and can therefore
only be used for flavoring, and not for eating.

8. Put the meat, suet, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs, into a basin, and mix them together.

9. Now add the herbs and a teaspoonful of salt.

N. B. If liked, a little chopped onion, or chopped lemon-peel, might
be added.

10. Break one egg into the basin, and mix all together
lightly.

11. Take a board, flour it, and turn the mixture on
to it.

12. Flour your hands, to prevent the mixture from
sticking.

13. Form the 'mixture into little balls, and sprinkle a
little flour over them.

26 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

14. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it very slightly
with a knife.

15. Put the balls into the egg, and egg them well all
over.

16. JSTow put them into the bread-crumbs, and cover
them well, but not too thickly.

N. B. Be careful to finger them as little as possible.

17. Put the rissoles into a fry ing-basket, a few at a time,
as they must not touch each other.

18. When the/b in the saucepan is quite hot and smok-
ing, put in the frying-basket, and let the rissoles fry a pale
brown.

19. If there is not sufficient fat to cover the rissoles,
shake the basket occasionally, that they may get fried on
all sides alike.

N. B. If there is no frying-basket, put the rissoles into the fat with a
spoon, and then turn them over, so as to get them equally browned.

20. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate.

21. When the rissoles are fried, turn them carefully or
to the paper to drain off the grease.

22. For serving, put them on a hot dish.

LESSON SEVENTH.
MINCED MEAT.

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. One tablespoonful of mushroom cat-
sup. Pepper and salt. Half a pound of rice, or one pound of potatoes.

Time required to cook the potatoes, half an hour ; to cook the mince. Jive
minutes.

To make a " Mince " of cold meat :

1. If the mince is served with rice, see Lesson on

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 27

" Eice " ; or if with mashed potatoes, see " Vegetables,"
Lesson No. 2.

2. Put any scraps of cold meat on a board, and mince
them up with a sharp knife.

3. Put the minced meat into a saucepan, with about a
tdblespoonful (or enough to moisten the mince) of mush-
room catsup, or some gravy, and season it with pepper and
salt to taste.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire, to let the mince just
warm through.

5. Stir it occasionally, to prevent the meat from stick-
ing to the bottom of the saucepan.

6. For serving, turn the mince on to a hot dish, with a
border of boiled rice or mashed potato.

CHAPTER IV.
ENTREES.

LESSON FIRST.
CUKRY.

Ingredients. One rabbit or chicken. Half an ounce of coriander seed.
Two cloves of garlic. One dessertspoonful of turmeric. Eight berries
of red pepper. Two inches of the stick of cinnamon. Six cardamomums.
A small piece of green ginger, the size of a chestnut. Five small onions.
Salt. Three ounces of fresh butter. Half a pint of cream or good milk.
The juice of half a lemon.

Time required, about two hours.

To make Curry :

1. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly
prepared for cooking), and put it on a board.

2. Cut it up in the same way as for carving, taking
care that the pieces are nearly all of one size.

N. B. Chicken, veal, and other meats would serve the purpose for
curry as well as rabbit.

3. Take a quarter of an ounce of coriander seed, put it
into the mortar, and pound it very finely with a pestle.

4. Take the pounded seed out of the mortar, and put
it on a piece of paper. We must scrape out the mortar,
so that none be lost.

ENTREES. 29

5. Take two doves of garlic, peel them with a sharp
knife, and place them in the mortar.

6. Also put into the mortar a dessertspoonful of tur-
meric.

7. Add eight berries of red pepper and one inch of the
stick of cinnamon.

8. Put in four cardamomums.

9. Take a piece of green ginger about the size of a
chestnut, and slice it very thin.

10. Take three small onions, and peel off the two outer
skins.

11. Divide the onions into quarters, and place them and
the sliced ginger in the mortar.

12. Pound up all these spices and the onions as fine as
possible with the pestle.

13. Now add to them the pounded coriander seed, and
mix them all up together.

14. Turn this pounded mixture out of the mortar into a
half -pint basin.

15. Take a teacupful of cold water and rinse out the
mortar, and then pour the water on to the pounded mix-
ture in the basin.

16. Take the pieces of rabbit and wash them in cold
water.

17. Take them out of the cold water and place them on
a sieve to drain.

18. Take a stewpan, and put in it three ounces of fresh
butter.

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter.

N. B. Be careful that it does not burn.

20. Take two small onions and peel off the two outer
skins.

30 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

21. Divide the onions in half down the centre, and cut
them up so that the slices are in half -circles.

22. Put these sliced onions into the melted butter, add
also two cardamomums, and let them fry a pale brown.

23. Then take the onions carefully out of the stewpan
with a slice, and place them on a piece of whity-brown
paper, to drain off the grease.

24. Now take the basin of spices, and add as much cold
water as will make the basin three parts full.

25. Add to the basin of spices a small dessertspoonful
of salt.

26. Now pour all the contents of the basin into the
melted butter in the stewpan, to cook for about twenty
minutes, stirring well all the time with a wooden spoon.

N. B. To test when the spices are sufficiently cooked, you should
smell them, and if they are quite done, no particular spice should
predominate.

27. Now place the pieces of rabbit in the stewpan to
brown.

28. Turn them occasionally, so that they will get brown
on all sides.

29. Now pour into the stewpan a teacupful of cold
water, to make the meat tender.

30. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let it all cook stead-
ily for about an hour.

31. Watch it carefully, and stir it perpetually.

N. B. A good deal of stirring is required.

32. Add, by degrees, a teacupful of cold water, to wash
down the bits of spice which will stick to the sides of the
stewpan.

33. Also add, by degrees, half a pint of cream or good

ENTRIES. 31

milk {water might even be used instead), and mix it well
together with a wooden spoon.

N. B. You must be careful that no pieces of meat, or spices, stick to
the bottom of the pan.

34. Now take half ^LQ fried onions, chop them up finely,
and add them to the curry,

35. Then put into the mortar Jive coriander seeds and
one inch of the stick of cinnamon, and pound them well
together with a pestle.

36. When the rabbit is quite done, take the pieces out
with a fork, arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour
the gravy round.

37. Then sprinkle over the rabbit the remainder of the
fried onions, and the pounded cinnamon and coriander
seeds.

38. Take a fresh lemon, cut it in half, and squeeze all
the juice of it through a strainer over the rabbit.

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the above Curry (see Lea-
son on " Rice ").

LESSON SECOND.
QUENELLES OF VEAL.

Ingredients. One pound of the fillet of veal. Two ounces of butter. Two
and three-quarters ounces of flour. Three-fourths of a pint of second
white stock. Two eggs. One dozen button mushrooms. One gill of cream.
One teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Salt.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make Quenelles of Veal :

1. Put one ounce of butter and two ounces of flour into
a stewpan, and mix them well together with a wooden
spoon. o

32 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Add one gill of second white stock. (See Lesson on
" Stock.")

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well until it
boils and thickens, and leaves the sides of the stewpan.

4. JSTow pour this mixture, or panada (as it is called),
on to a plate.

5. Stand the plate aside to cool.

6. Take one pound of the fillet of veal and put it on a
board.

7. Take a sharp knife, cut away all the skin and fat,
and cut up the meat into small pieces.

8. Put these pieces of veal into a mortar, and pound
them well with the pestle.

9. Place a wire sieve over a plate ; take this pounded
meat and pass it through the sieve, rubbing it with a
wooden spoon.

10. When the panada on the plate is cold, put half of it
and one egg in the mortar, and pound it to a cream.

11. Then add half the meat, and salt and pepper to
taste, and pound all well together with the pestle.

12. Put into the mortar the remainder of the panada,
and break in another egg, and add the rest of the meat.

13. Pound these well together again with the pestle.

14. Turn the mixture from the mortar into a basin.

15. Take a saute-pan and butter it inside.

16. Take a dessertspoon and fill it with the mixture,
shaping it to the form of an oval with a knife, which you
must dip occasionally into hot water, to prevent the mix-
ture from sticking.

17. Take another dessertspoon and dip it into boiling
water.

18. Scoop the quenelle from the first spoon into the sec-
ond spoon, and put it into the saute-pan, and continue
doing this till you have used up all the mixture.

ENTREES. 33

19. Now make the sauce to be served with the quenelles.

20. Take a stewpan, and put in half an ounce of butter
and half an ounce of flour.

21. Put the stewpan on the fire, and mix them together
with a wooden spoon.

22. Take one dozen of button mushrooms, cut off the ends
of the stalks, and wash them well in cold wafer.

23. Take them out of the water, put them upon a board,
and peel them carefully with a sharp knife.

24. Pour half a pint of second white stock into the mix-
ture in the stewpan, and add the mushroom peelings for
flavoring.

25. Stir well until it boils and thickens.

26. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, with the
lid half on, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour.

27. Then take a spoon, and skim off all the butter from
the top of the sauce.

28. Now stir into the sauce one gill of cream, and stand
the stewpan aside to keep warm, until required for. use.

29. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a stew-
pan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut.

30. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
and pour in one tdblespoonful of cold water.

31. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to
the boil.

32. Now pour boiling water carefully into the saute-
pan, enough to cover the quenelles.

N. B. Be careful to pour the water very gently into the saute-pan, or
the quenelles will be spoiled.

33. Put the saute-pan on the fire, to poach the quenelles
for ten minutes.

N. B. Watch them, and occasionally turn them carefully with a spoon.

34 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

34. When the quenelles are done, lift them out of the
water, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water,

35. For serving, arrange them tastily in a circle on a
hot dish.

36. Fill in the centre of the dish with the boiled mush-
rooms.

N. B. Peas (see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 9), or spinach (see " Vege-
tables," Lesson No. 8), may be served with them instead, according
to taste.

37. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the sauce
through a strainer over the quenelles.

LESSON THIRD.
BRAISED FILLETS OF BEEF.

Ingredients. One pound of fillet of beef. A piece of the fat of bacon.
A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. Two young carrots.
One onion, and one-fourth of a stick of celery. A pint of good stock.

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about one hour and a
half.

To Lard and Braise Fillets of Beef :

1. Take one pound of fillet of beef (cut from the un-
der-cut of the sirloin), and put it on a board.

2. Take a sharp knife, and cut the beef into small
round fillets, to about the size of the top of a coffee-cup,
and about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and trim
them neatly.

3. Take a strip of the fat of bacon (nearest the rind is
best, as it is harder), about one inch wide.

4. Take a sharp knife, and cut up this piece of "bacon
into little strips, an inch long and one-eighth of an inch
in width and thickness.

5. Take each fillet, and hold it in a clean cloth.

ENTRIES. 35

6. Take a larding-needle, with a little strip of bacon in
it, and lard each fillet neatly in regular rows, until one
side of the fillet is entirely covered with strips of bacon.

7. "When you have larded all the fillets, lay them care-
fully in a clean saute-pan.

8. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of a little parsley,
thyme, and a bay-leaf, all tied neatly and tightly together.

9. Take two young carrots, scrape them clean with a
knife, and cut them in halves.

10. Take an onion and peel it carefully.

11. Add these vegetables, and a quarter of a stick of
celery, to the fillets in the saute-pan.

12. Now pour in a pint of good stock, put the saute-pan
on the fire, and baste the fillets continually.

N. B. The stock must not cover the meat.

13. Take a piece of kitchen-paper, and cut a round to
the size of the saute-pan and butter it.

14. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper
on the fillets in the saute-pan.

N. B. This paper is to prevent the meat browning too quickly.

15. Lift the paper every now and then, when you re-
quire to baste the fillets.

16. Put the saute-pan into a very hot oven, to brown
the fillets.

17. Let the pint of stock reduce to a half-glaze, which
will take about half an hour.

18. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the
fillets with the stock.

N. B. If the fillets are not brown enough, take a salamander J and
heat it in the fire.

1 A salamander is a tile-shaped piece of iron, which can be lifted by a
handle, like the cover of a stove.

36 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

19. Hold the salamander over the fillets, to brown them
a nice color.

20. For serving, take the fillets carefully out of the
saute-pan, and arrange them on a hot dish in a circle, on
a border of mashed potatoes. (See " Vegetables," Lesson
No. 2.)

N. B. You must stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to
keep warm, until the sauce is ready.

21. Put the saute-pan on the fire, and let the sauce re-
duce to a half-glaze.

22. Then strain the glaze round the meat.

N. B. The centre of the dish may be filled in with mixed vegetabl
i. e., peas and beans, which should be cut in the shape of dice, car
rots and turnips, cut with a cutter to the size of the peas.

IESSON FOURTH.
MUTTON CUTLETS.

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton.
Bread-crumbs. One egg. Salt and pepper. Three ounces of clarified
butter.

Time required, about tJiree-quarters of an hour.

To Fry Mutton Outlets :

1. Take three pounds of the best end of the neck of
mutton, and put it on a board.

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the rib-bone,
leaving the cutlet-bone three inches in length.

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of the
cutlets.

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife, and cut off each cutlet close to
the bone.

ENTRIES. 37

6. Take a cutlet-bat, wet it, and beat eacli cutlet to
about half an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch
of the rib-~bone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat
may be clarified and used as dripping.

9. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper.

10. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the
sieve.

11. Take one egg and beat it on a plate with a knife.

12. Season the cutlets on both sides with pepper and
salt.

13. Lay them in the egg, and egg them well all over
with a brush.

14. Then put them in the bread-crumbs, and cover
them well.

N. B Be careful to finger them as little as possible, and lift them by
the bare bone.

15. Take a saute-pan, and pour in it one ounce of melt-
ed clarified .butter or lard^or clarified dripping.

16. Now lay in the cutlets, with the bones to the centre
of the saute-pan.

17. Pour over them two more ounces of melted clarified
butter or fat.

18. Now put the saute-pan on a very quick fire for
about seven minutes.

19. Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become
a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both
sides.

20. Place a piece of -whity-brown paper on a plate.

21. When the cutlets are done, take them carefully out

38 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

with a fork, and lay them on the paper on the plate, to
drain off the grease.

N. B. Be careful to stick the fork into the fat, and not into the
meat, or the gravy will run out.

22. For serving, arrange them nicely in a dish, in a cir-
cle, one leaning over the other. The centre may be filled
with any vegetable, according to taste.

LESSON FIFTH.
CHATJD FROID OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients. One chicken. One half-pint of white sauce. One gill of
cream. Two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly. Chopped pieces of aspic
jelly. Mixed vegetables. One gill of mayonnaise sauce.

Time required, about one Jiour and three-quarters.

To make Chaud Froid of Chicken :

1. Put half a pint of white sauce (see " Sauces," Les-
son No. 1) in a stewpan.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and stir well
with a wooden spoon, till the sauce is reduced to one gill.

3. Then add one gill of cream, and stir again, until it
just boils.

4. Take a tammy sieve and stand it over a basin.

5. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pass the contents
through the sieve into the basin.

6. "When it is all passed through into the basin, stir in
two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly (see " Jelly," Lesson No. 2).

N. B. This aspic jelly should be made with chicken as well as veal.

7. Take a cold roast chicken (see " Trussing a Fowl for
Roasting "), and put it on a board.

N. B. The chicken must be young, as the flesh should be as white as
possible.

ENTREES. 39

8. Cut it up in the same way as for carving, taking
care that the pieces are all of one size. Remove the skin,
and neatly trim each piece.

9. Dip these pieces of chicken in the sauce, covering
them well over.

10. Stand a drainer over a dish.

11. Place the pieces of chicken on the drainer, and let
them remain until the sauce is set over each piece.

12. For serving, arrange the pieces of chicken on chopped
aspic jelly (see " Jelly," Lesson No. 2), in a circle on a
dish.

13. The centre should be filled in with mixed vegeta-
bles i. e., cooked potato, carrot, and beet-root, stamped
out with a vegetable-cutter; cooked French peas, cut to
the shape of dice ; and green peas all mixed together,
with two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce. (See
" Sauces," Lesson No. 3.)

LESSON SIXTH.
VEAL CUTLETS.

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of veal. Savory
thyme. The rind of half a lemon. One bunch of parsley. One ounce
of butter. One teaspoonful of lemon-juice. One egg. Pepper and salt.
Bread-crumbs. One-half pound of bacon for rolls.

Time required, about one-half hour.

To Broil Veal Cutlets:

1. Take three pounds of the best end of the neck of
veal, or veal cutlet, and put it on a board.

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the rib-bone,
leaving the cutlet-lone three inches in length.

40 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of the
cutlets.

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet close to
the hone, so as to get an extra cutlet between each bone.

6. Take a cutlet-bat and beat each cutlet to about half
an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch
of the rib-bone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat
may be clarified, and used for dripping.

9. Take a little savory thyme, put it on a board, and
chop it up very fine. (The thyme, when chopped, should
fill a salt-spoon.)

10. Take half a lemon and peel it very thin.

11. Chop this lemon-rind up very fine.

12. Wash a small bunch of parsley in cold water, and
dry it in a cloth.

13. Chop up this parsley very fine on a board.

14. Put one ounce of "butter on a kitchen-plate, and put
it in the oven to melt.

15. When the butter is melted, add a tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, and the chopped thyme, lemoTwind, and par-
sley.

16. Add one egg, and pepper and salt to taste, and beat
all up together with a knife.

17. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of
paper.

18. Rub some crumb of bread through the sieve.

19. Dip each cutlet into the plate, and cover it all over
with the mixture.

ENTREES. 41

20. Then put it in the bread-crumbs, and cover it well.

N. B. You should finger them as little as possible.

21. Take a gridiron and hold it to the fire to warm.

22. Arrange the cutlets on the gridiron.

23. Place the gridiron in front of a bright fire, but not
too near, or the bread-crumbs will burn before the cutlets
are sufficiently cooked.

24. Then let them broil for about ten minutes, and when
they have become a pale brown on one side, turn the grid-
iron, so as to brown them on both sides alike.

25. For serving, arrange the cutlets on a wall of mashed
potatoes (see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 2), in a circle on a
hot dish, one leaning over the other ; the centre may be
filled in with rolls of bacon (see below), and with a thick
brown sauce (see " Sauces," Lesson No. 2),

For Rolls of Bacon :

1. Cut some thin slices of bacon, about two mches wide
and about four inches in length,

2. Roll up these strips of bacon.

3. Take a skewer and run it through the centre of
each roll of bacon.

4. Place this skewer, with the bacon, on a tin, and put
it in the oven for six minutes.

5. For serving, take the rolls of bacon off the skewer,
and arrange them in the centre of the cutlets, as described
above.

42 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SEVENTH.
FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients. One young chicken. One small carrot. One-half an onion.
One stick of celery. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One sprig of
thyme. One bay-leaf. Two cloves. Six pepper-corns. One blade of
mace. One and a half pint of second white stock. One ounce of but-
ter. One and a half ounce of flour. Two dozen of button mushrooms.
Fried bread. One gill of cream.

Time required, about one hour and a half.

To make a Fricassee of Chicken :

1. Take a young chicken, clean it, draw it (see " Truss-
ing a Fowl for Boasting," from Note 1 to Note 12), and
skin it.

2. Cut the chicken into joints, and put them into a
basin of cold water for about ten minutes.

3. After that time, take the pieces of chicken out of
the water and dry them in a clean cloth.

4. Take one small carrot, wash and scrape it clean,
and cut it into slices.

5. Take half an onion and peel it.

6. Take one stick of celery and two or three sprigs of
parsley, and wash them in cold water.

7. Put these vegetables into a -stewpan.

8. Add to them one sprig of thyme, one hay-leaf, two
cloves, six pepper-corns, and one blade of mace.

9. Now put in the pieces of chicken, and add one pint
and a half of second white stock.

10. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil gently for about
half an hour.

11. When the pieces of chicken are quite done, take
them out ol the stewpan, wash them in a basin of cold
water, and dry them in a cloth.

ENTREES. 43

12. Strain the stock from the stewpan into the basin.

13. Take two dozen button mushrooms, cut off the ends
of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them.

14. Take the peeled mushrooms, and put them into the
stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut.

15. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and
pour in a tdblespoonful of cold water.

16. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to
the boil.

17. Then take the stewpan off the fire and turn them
on to a plate.

18. Wash out the stewpan, and then put in it one ounce
of butter.

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter.

20. Then add one and a half ounces of flour to the but-
ter, stirring it well with a wooden spoon.

21. Now remove all the grease from the chicken stock,
and add it and the trimmings of the mushrooms to the
stewpan, and stir well until it boils.

22. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it
boil gently for twenty minutes. The cover of the stew-
pan should be half on.

23. After that time, take a spoon and carefully skim off
all the butter that will have risen to the top of the sauce.

24. Now put the stewpan over the fire to boil, and let
the sauce reduce to about one pint, and then add one gill
of cream.

25. Take the pieces of chicken and put them in anoth-
er stewpan, with the two dozen button mushrooms.

26. When the sauce is sufficiently reduced, strain it over
the chicken.

27. Then stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water
over the fire, until the chicken is quite hot.

44 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

28. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a
hot dish, with fried bread (as described in " Vegetables,"
Lesson No. 7, Note 13 to Note 17).

FOB COLD CHICKEN.

Ingredients* Some cold chicken, say half of one. One-half a carrot. One-
fourth of an onion. One-half a stick of celery.* A bouquet garni of
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. One gill of cream. One clove. Three
pepper-corns. One-half a blade of mace. One pint of good white stock.
One-half an ounce of butter. One ounce of flour. One dozen button
mushrooms. Fried bread. Salt.

Time required, about forty minutes.

To make a Fricassee of Cold Chicken :

1. Take some cold roast or boiled chicken.

2. Cut away all the meat from the bone, and cut it up
into neat pieces.

3. Put one pint of good white stock (see Lessen on
" Stock ") and the chicken-bones into a stewpan.

4. Wash half a carrot, scrape it, and cut it into slices.

5. Peel a quarter of an onion.

6. Wash half a stick of celery in cold water.

7. Put these vegetables into the stewpan.

8. Add to them a bouquet garni (consisting of a little
parsley, one sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied tightly
together), one clove, three pepper-corns, and half a blade
of mace.

9. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil for
twenty minutes.

10. After that time, strain the stock into a basin.

11. Take one dozen button mushrooms, cut off the ends
of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them.

12. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a
stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut.

ENTRIES. 45

13. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
and pour in a tablespoonful of cold water.

14. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to
the boil.

15. Then take the stewpan off the fire, and turn them
on to a plate.

16. Put half an ounce of 'butter into a stewpan.

17. Put the stewpan on the fire. When the ~butter is
melted, put in one ounce of flour ', stirring it well with a
wooden spoon.

18. Now add the chicken stock and the mushroom-peel-
ings, and stir the sauce well until it boils.

19. Let it boil for ten minutes, to cook \hsflour.

20. After that time, add one gill of cream, and salt to
taste.

21. Put the pieces of chicken and the button mushrooms
into another stewpan.

22. Strain the sauce over the chicken, and then stand
the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over the fire,
until the chicken is quite hot.

23. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a
hot dish, with some fried bread (as described in " Vege-
tables," Lesson No. 8, Note 13 to Note 17) put round
the edge.

LESSON EIGHTH.
BEEF OLIVES.

Ingredients. One pound and a half of beef or rump steak, or the fillet of
beef. Two ounces of beef -suet. Three ounces of bread-crumbs. One tea-
spoonful of chopped parsley. One-fourth of a teaspoonful of chopped thyme
and marjoram. A little grated lemon-rind and nutmeg. Salt and pep-
per. One egg. One pint of brown sauce or stock.

Time required, about one hour.

4:6 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

To make Beef Olives :

1. Take one pound and a half of beef or rump steak, or
the fillet of beefy and put it on a board.

2. Cut the beef in slices about half an inch in thick-
ness and four inches in length, and beat them out with a
wet cutlet-bat.

N. B. You should be careful that all the slices are of the same size.

3. Take the trimmings that remain, chop them up
very fine, and put them in a basin.

4. Take two ounces of beef -suet, and put it on a board.

5. Cut away all the skin, and chop the suet up very
fine.

6. Stand a wire sieve over a piece of paper.

7. Rub some crumb of bread through the sieve. (There
should be three ounces of bread-crumbs.)

8. Take a little parsley, and chop it fine. (There
should be one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.)

9. Take a little thyme and marjoram, and chop them
fine. (There should be about a quarter of a teaspoonful
of chopped thyme and marjoram.)

10. Add all these things (i. e., suet, bread-crumbs, par-
sley, thyme, and marjoram) to the chopped beef in the basin.

11. Grate half a teaspoonful of lemon-rind and nutmeg
into the basin.

12. Season it with plenty of pepper and salt, add one
egg, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon.

13. Take this mixture out of the basin, and form it into
pieces the shape and size of a cork.

14. Roll up each slice of beef, placing a piece of stuffing
in the centre.

15. Tie each roll round with a piece of twine, to fasten
it securely together.

ENTREES. 4.7

16. Place these rolls in a stewpan, with about one pint
of brown sauce (see " Sauces," Lesson No. 2), or good
stock (see Lesson on " Stock ".)

17. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let them stew
gently for three-quarters of an hour.

18. For serving, arrange the beef olives on a hot dish
in a circle, pouring the sauce round the edge. The cen-
tre may be filled in with dressed spinach (see " Vegeta-
bles," Lesson No. 7), or with mashed potatoes (see " Vege-
tables," Lesson No. 2).

LESSON NINTH.
IRISH STEW.

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton, or the
scrag end. One teaspoonful of salt. One salt-spoonful of pepper. One
dozen of button onions, or two of moderate size. Six large potatoes.

Time required, about two hours.

To make an Irish Stew :

1. Take the best end of the neck of mutton, and cut
and trim the cutlets in the same way as for " Haricot
Mutton " (see " Entrees," Lesson No. 10, from Note 1 to
Note 8).

2. Place the cutlets in a stewpan.

3. Sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt and a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and pour in one pint and a half of
cold water.

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, and, when it has come
to the boil, skim it.

5. Now draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, and
let it simmer gently for one hour.

4 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Watch it and skim it occasionally, and remove all fat.

7. Wash half a dozen potatoes, scrub them, and peel
them.

8. Cut these potatoes in halves.

9. Take one dozen of button onions, or two moderate-
sized ones, and peel them carefully.

10. Add the onions and potatoes to the stew, and let it
simmer for one hour.

11. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables
are quite tender.

12. For serving, arrange the cutlets in a. circle on a hot
dish, and pour the sauce round, with the vegetables in the
centre.

N. B. The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of
the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use.

LESSON TENTH.
HARICOT MUTTON.

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton. One
onion. Pepper and salt. One tablespoonful of flour. One pint of sec-
ond stock. One carrot. One turnip. One dozen button onions.

Time required, about an hour and a half.

To make Haricot Mutton :

1. Take the best end of the neck of mutton and put it
on a board.

2. Saw off the end of the rib-bone, leaving the cutlet-
bone three inches in length.

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of
the cutlets.

4. Joint each cutlet with a chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet.

ENTRIES. 49

6. Beat each cutlet with a cutlet-bat to rather more
than half an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch
of the rib-bone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat
may be clarified and used for dripping (see Lesson on " Frying ").

9. Take one onion, peel it, and cut it in slices.

10. Put the onion and the cutlets in a stewpan, with
two ounces of butter.

11. Put the stewpan on a quick fire, to fry the cutlets a
nice brown.

12. Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become
a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both
sides. Then remove them from the stewpan.

13. Pour off the grease from the stewpan, and leave the
onion ; then add one tallespoonful of flour, and pour in,
by degrees, one pint of second stock, and stir well until it
boils.

14. Strain this sauce, and return the cutlets, with the
sauce, into the stewpan.

15. Wash one carrot, scrape it clean with a knife, and
cut it in the shape of young carrots, or into fancy shapes,
with a cutter.

16. Peel two turnips, and cut them in quarters.

17. Peel one dozen button onions very carefully, so as
not to break them in pieces.

18. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let the meat stew
gently for half an hour ; then add the prepared vegetables,
and let all simmer for half an hour.

19. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables
are quite tender.

5Q LESSONS IN COOKERY.

20. For serving, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot
dish, with the vegetables in the centre. Remove all grease
from the sauce, and pour it round.

. N. B. The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of
the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use.

LESSON ELEVENTH.
CROQUETTES OR RISSOLES OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients. One-half a cold chicken. Two ounces of lean ham or bacon.
Six mushrooms. One ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. Half a gill
of cream. One gill of stock. Seasoning. The juice of half a lemon.
One egg. Half a pound of bread-crumbs. If for Rissoles with paste,
four ounces of flour and three ounces of butter.

Time required, about one hour.

To make Croquettes or Rissoles of Chicken :

1. Cut away all \heflesh from the bones of half a chick-
en (either roasted or boiled), and put it on a board.

2. Remove the skin, and mince the meat very fine.

3. Wash and peel six mushrooms and mince them
with two ounces of lean ham, and mix them with the
minced chicken.

4. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and place it
over the fire.

5. When the butter is melted, stir in one ounce of
flour, and mix it to a smooth paste.

6. Now add the stock, and stir again smoothly, until it
boils and thickens.

7. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and stir in
half a gill of cream.

8. Take half a lemon and squeeze the juice of it into
the sauce.

N. B. Be careful not to let any pips fall in.

ENTRIES. 51

9. Season the sauce with pepper and salt according to
taste, and, if liked, grate about half a salt-spoonful of nut-
meg into it.

10. Now stir in the minced chicken, ham, and mush-
rooms, until all are well mixed together.

11. Take a plate, and turn the contents of the stewpan
on to it.

12. Cut a piece of kitchen^paper to the size of the plate,
butter it, and lay it on the top of the mixture, and stand
the plate aside to cool.

13. When the mixture is cold, put one pound and a
half of lard, or clarified dripping, in a deep stewpan, and
put it on the fire to heat.

14. Rub some crumb of bread through a wire sieve on
to a piece of paper.

15. If rissoles are required, put four ounces of flour on
a board, and rub into it three ounces of butter, until both
are thoroughly mixed and there are no lumps remaining.

16. Mix the flour and butter into a stiff, smooth paste
with cold water.

17. Flour a rolling-pin, sprinkle some flour over the board,
and roll the paste out into as thin a sheet as possible.

18. Flour your hands, dip a knife in flour (to prevent
any sticking), and form the chicken mixture into any fancy
shapes for croquettes, either in balls or long rolls, etc., or
roll it in the paste for rissoles.

19. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it up slightly
with a knife.

20. Dip the croquettes or rissoles into the egg, and egg
them well all over with a paste-brush.

21. Now roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them
well all over.

N. B. You must be careful to cover them smoothly, and not too thickly.

52 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

22. Take a frying-lasJcet, and arrange the croquettes or
rissoles in it. Finger them as little as possible, and do
not allow them to touch each other.

23. When the fat is quite hot and smoking, put in the
fry ing -basket for two minutes or so, to fry them a pale-
yellow.

24. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate, and,
as the rissoles are fried, turn them on to the paper to
drain off the grease.

25. For serving, arrange them tastily on a hot dish,
with fried parsley in the centre.

N. B. Cold veal or pheasant, etc., might be used for the rissoles and
croquettes, instead of chicken, if preferred.

LESSON TWELFTH.

CURRIED RABBIT.

Ingredients. One rabbit, or one and a half pound of veal cutlet. One-
fourth of a pound of butter. Two onions. One apple. Two tablcspoon-
fuls of curry powder. One pint of good stock. One gill of cream. One
lemon. One-half a teaspoonf ul of salt.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To make a Curry of Rabbit or Veal :

1. Put a quarter of a pound of Gutter into a stewpan,
and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Peel two onions, put them on a board, and chop
them up as finely as possible.

3. Put the chopped onions into the melted butter, and
let them fry a light-brown.

N. B. You must be careful that they do not burn.

4. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly
prepared for cooking), wash it well, and dry it in a cloth.

ENTREES. 53

5. Put the rabbit on a board and cut it up in pieces of
equal size.

6. If veal is used, put it on a board and cut it into
equal-sized pieces.

N. B. If preferred, chicken can be used instead of rabbit or veal.

7. When the onions are fried, strain them from the
butter.

8. Put the butter back into the stewpan.

9. Now put in the pieces of meat, put the stewpan
over a quick fire, and let it fry for ten minutes.

10. Watch it, and turn the pieces of meat occasionally,
so that they will be fried on both sides alike.

11. Peel an apple, cut out the core, and chop it up as
finely as possible on a board.

12. When the meat is fried, add to it two tablespoonfuls
of curry powder and half a teaspoonful of salt, and stir
well over the fire for five minutes.

13. Then put in the fried onions, the chopped apple,
and one pint of good stock.

14. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it
simmer gently for two hours.

15. After that time, stir in one gill of cream.

16. Wipe a lemon clean with a cloth, and peel it as thinly
as possible with a sharp knife. (The peel should be put
aside, as it is not required for present use.)

17. Cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice of it
through a strainer into the stewpan.

18. For serving, take the pieces of meat out of the stew-
pan, and arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour the
sauce over the meat.

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the curry.

CHAPTER V.
STEWS.

LESSON FIRST.
A-LA-MODE BEEF.

Ingredients. One cow-heel. An ox-cheek. Three ounces of dripping.
Three carrots. Six onions. One bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, par-
sley, and bay-leaf). Two tablespoonfuls of flour. Pepper and salt.

Time required, three hours.

To make A-la-Mode Beef :

1. Take a dressed cow-heel and wash it thoroughly in
water.

2. Put the cow-heel on a board and cut off all the flesh.
Cut \hejlesh into neat pieces.

3. Take an ox-cheek and wash it well in cold water.

N. B. Be sure it is quite clean, and free from all impurities.

4. Put the ox-cheek on a board and rub it well with
salt.

5. Then rub it quite dry in a clean cloth.

6. Put three ounces of clarified dripping into a large
saucepan, and place it on the fire to melt.

STEWS. 55

7. Cut the ox- cheek up into neat pieces.

N. B. Weigh the flesh of the ox-cheek and cow-heel, so as to know
how much water should be added, as one pint is allowed to each
pound of meat,

8. Flour each piece,

9. When the dripping is melted, put in the floured
pieces of ox-cheek, and let them fry a nice brown.

10. Stir the pieces occasionally, and do not let them
stick to the bottom of the saucepan.

11. Take three carrots, wash them, scrape them clean,
and cut them in slices with a sharp knife.

12. Take six onions, peel them, and cut them in slices.

13. Take a sprig or two of parsley, wash it, and dry it
in a cloth.

14. Take one sprig of marjoram, thyme, one lay-leaf,
and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with a piece
of string.

15. Put these vegetables and the lunch of herbs into the
saucepan.

16. Pour in the proper quantity of water namely, one
pint of water to each pound of meat.

17. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin, and
mix it into a smooth paste with cold water.

18. Now put the pieces of cow-heel into the saucepan,
and plenty of pepper and salt to taste.

19. Stir the paste smoothly into the saucepan.

20. Put the lid on the saucepan, and, when it boils,
move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it stew
gently for three hours.

21. Watch it, and skim it very often.

N. B. Be always careful to skim anything that is cooking directly the
scum rises, or it will boil down again into the meat, and will spoil
it. Scum is the impurity which rises from the meat or vegetables.

56 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

22. "When the stew is finished, pour it into a large dish
or a soup-tureen. It is then ready for serving.

N. B. The bones of the cow-heel should be put into the stock-pot.

LESSON SECOND.
BRAZILIAN STEW.

Ingredients. Four pounds of shin or sticking of beef. Two carrots. Two
turnips. Four onions. A bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, and par-
sley). Pepper and salt. One gill of vinegar.

Time required, about three hours and ten minutes.

To make Brazilian Stew :

1. Take four pounds of the shin of beef or the stick-
ing of beef, put it on a board, and cut all the meat off the
bone.

2. Cut up the meat into neat pieces.

3. Dip each piece of meat into some vinegar in a basin.

N. B. Putting meat into vinegar will make it tender, therefore any
tough pieces may be used for this stew. The vinegar will not be
tasted when the meat is cooked.

4. "Wash two carrots, scrape them clean, and cut them
into slices with a sharp knife.

5. Peel two turnips and four onions, and cut them in
slices.

6. Put the pieces of meat into a saucepan, arranging
them closely together.

7. Sprinkle some pepper and salt over the meat.

8. Now put in all the vegetables, and also add a small
bunch of herbs namely, a sprig of marjoram,, thyme, and
parsley, tied tightly together.

N. B. Put no water in this stew ; the vinegar draws out the juices of
the meat, and makes plenty of gravy.

STEWS. 57

9. Shut down the lid tight ; put the saucepan by the
side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for at least
three hours.

10. For serving, turn the stew on to a hot dish, or into
a soup-tureen.

LESSON THIRD.
IRISH STEW.

Ingredients* Two pounds of potatoes. One pound of the scrag end of
mutton. One pound of onions. Pepper and salt.

Time required, about three hours.

To make an Irish Stew :

1. Take two pounds of potatoes and wash them well in
cold water.

2. Take a sharp knife, peel them, carefully cut out the
eyes or any black specks about the potatoes, and cut them
in slices.

3. Peel one pound of onions, and cut them in slices.

4. Take one pound of the scrag end of the neck of mut-
ton, wash it in cold water, and scrape it clean with a knife.

5. Put the meat on a board, and cut it up in small
pieces. x

6. Take a large saucepan ; put in a layer of meat, then
a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions.

7. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over each layer for
seasoning.

8. Continue to fill the saucepan in this way till there
is no meat or vegetables left.

9. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bottom of
the saucepan (about half a pint).

10. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it has come

58 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

to the boil draw it to the side of the fire, and let it
stew gently for from one hour and a half to two hours.

11. Watch it, and stir it occasionally, to prevent its
catching.

12. For serving, turn the stew out on a hot dish.

N. B. If a larger quantity of potato is required in the stew, the extra
quantity should be parboiled (see note below), and then cut in slices
and added to the stew, half an hour before it is ready for serving.
If all the potatoes were put in with the meat at first, so much water
would be required that the stew would be spoiled.

N. B. For parboiling (or half-boiling) potatoes, wash them and peel
them ; put them in a saucepan, with enough cold water to cover
them ; put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes boil for
about half an hour.

LESSON FOURTH.
STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF.

Ingredients. Seven pounds of brisket of beef. Two carrots. One turnip.
Two onions. One head of celery. One leek. Bouquet garni (i. e., sprig
of thyme, marjoram, and bay-leaf). Six cloves. Twelve pepper-corns.
Six allspice. One tablespoonful of salt.

Time required, about four hours.

To make /Stewed Brisket of Beef, to be served cold :

1. Take seven pounds of brisket of leef (not very fat) ;
see that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it with
a knife and wipe it with a clean cloth, and then put it
into a large saucepan.

2. Take two carrots, wash and scrape them clean, and
cufc them in halves.

3. Wash one turnip and two onions, and peel them,
and cut the turnip in quarters.

STEWS. 59

4. Take one leek and one head of celery ', wash them
well in water, cut the long green leaves off the leek, and
the green tops from the celery.

5. Add all these vegetables to the meat in the saucepan.

6. Add also a bouquet garni of thyme, marjoram, and
a "bay-leaf, tied tightly together, six cloves, twelve pepper-
corns, six allspice, one tablespoonful of salt, and three
quarts of cold water.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it comes to
the boil, skim it well.

8. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and
let the contents simmer gently for three hours. Watch
it, and skim it occasionally.

9. After that time, take the meat out of the saucepan
and put it on a dish.

10. Take a knife and carefully remove the flat bones at
the side of the beef.

11. Place the beef between two dishes, with some heavy
weight on the top to press it.

12. Pour the stock through a strainer into a basin, and,
when it is cold, remove every particle of fat.

13. Then pour the stock into a stewpan, and put it on
the fire to boil, without the lid, so as to reduce the stock
to a glaze, about a gill.

14. Now take the beef, and, with a paste-brush, cover
the joint with the glaze, brushing it over several times,
until all the glaze is used up ; as soon as it is cold, and
has set, the beef is ready for serving.

CHAPTER VI.
TRIPE.

LESSON FIRST.
CURRIED TRIPE.

Ingredients. One pound of tripe. One-quarter of a pound of rice. One
onion. Flour, sugar, and curry-powder.

Time required, about three hours.

To make a Curry of Tripe :

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water,
and let it boil. Take it at once out of the water.

N. B. This is called " blanching."

2. After the tripe is blanched, scrape it with a knife,
and thoroughly cleanse it.

3. Cut the tripe up into small pieces.

4. Take a saucepan and lay the pieces of tripe in it,
and pour in enough cold water to cover it.

5. Take a small onion and peel it, and cut it partially
through.

6. Put the onion into the saucepan of tripe.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, re-
move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for not
less than two hours and a half.

TRIPE. (ft

8. After that time, try the tripe with a fork, and if it
is sufficiently cooked, it will be very tender.

9, Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a
piece of paper on the table.

10. Take out the pieces of tripe with a fork, and put
them on a dish.

11. Take a small saucepan, and put in it one ounce of
flour, one dessertspoonful of curry-powder, and half an
ounce of dripping, and mix them all well together with a
wooden spoon.

12. Add enough cold water to make the above into a
stiff paste.

13. Now pour in half a pint of the liquor in which the
tripe was boiled.

14. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the mixture
well until it boils and thickens. Do not let it get lumpy.

15. Stir in a quarter of a teaspoonful of orown sugar,
and salt according to taste. Now stand the saucepan aside
to get cool.

16. Take the onion which was boiled with the tripe, and
cut it in shreds, and add it to the sauce.

17. When the sauce is a little cool, put in the pieces of
tripe, and let them just warm through.

18. Take a dish and warm it, and pour the tripe and
sauce on it, keeping it as much in the centre of the dish
as possible.

19. Take a teacupful of rice, wash it well in two or
three waters, and put it in a saucepan full of boiling
water. Be sure the water is boiling. Add to it a salt-
spoonful of salt.

N. B. Rice should be boiled in plenty of water.

20. Let it boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty
minutes. After that time, feel the rice, to see if it is soft.

62 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

21. When the rice is sufficiently cooked, strain it off,
and pour cold water over it.

22. Then put the rice back into the empty saucepan,
and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, to dry the
rice. The lid should be only half on the saucepan.

23. "When the rice is quite dry, take it out of the sauce-
pan, and arrange it round the fripe.

LESSON SECOND.
TRIPE IN MILK.

Ingredients. One pound of tripe. Three or four good-sized onions. One
pint of milk. Seasoning and flour.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To cook Tripe in Milk :

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water,
to boil up and blanch. . When it boils, take it off the fire.

2. Then take it out of the water, scrape it, and cleanse
it thoroughly.

3. Cut it up in small pieces on a board.

4. Peel three or four good-sized onions, and cut them
partially through.

5. Put the tripe and onions into the saucepan, with
one pint of milk.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

7. When it boils, move it to the side of the fire, and
let it simmer for not less than two hours.

8. Then try it with a fork, and, if sufficiently cooked,
it will be very tender.

9. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a
piece of paper on the table.

TRIPE. 63

10. Take the onions out of the saucepan, and put them
on a board and chop them fine.

11. Take the tripe out of the saucepan, and arrange it
on a warm dish.

12. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm.

13. Take a dessertspoon/id of flour, and mix it to a
smooth paste with cold milk.

14. Stir, by degrees, the paste into the hot milk, and
let it boil and thicken.

15. Now stir the onion into the milk, and let it warm
through.

16. Season the onion-sauce according to taste, and pour
it over the tripe.

LESSON THIRD.
TRIPE A LA COUTANCE.

Ingredients. One pound of thin tripe. One-half a pound of bacon. One
small carrot. Four mushrooms. One-half a large onion, or six small
green ones. Bouquet garni. Two shallots and parsley. Two ounces of
butter. One tablespoonf ul of Harvey sauce. One tablespoonful of mush-
room catchup. One ounce of flour. One pint of stock. The juice of half
a lemon. Salt and pepper.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To cook Tripe a la Coutance :

1. Wash the tripe well in cold water.

2. Put the tripe in a stewpan, with cold water enough
to cover it.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and bring it to the boil.

N. B. This is to blanch the tripe.

4. Then take the tripe out of the stewpan, and dry it
in a clean cloth.

64: LESSONS IN COOKERY.

5. Put the tripe on a board, and, with a sharp knife,
cut it into strips about two inches wide and four inches in
length.

N. B. Only the thin part of the tripe can be used for Tripe d la Cou-
tance. If there are any thick pieces, they can be cooked with milk
and onions (see " Tripe," Lesson No. 2).

6. Take the half pound of bacon and cut it into very-
thin slices, the same size as the strips of tripe.

7. Take one peeled shallot and two or three sprigs of
parsley, and chop them fine on a board.

8. Lay one slice of bacon on each strip of tripe, sprin-
kle a little chopped shallot and parsley over each slice of
bacon, roll them up together, and tie them firmly round
with a piece of string.

9. Take the carrot, wash it, scrape it clean with a
knife, and cut it in slices.

10. Take the half onion and the other shallot, peel them,
and cut them in slices.

11. Take a sprig of marjoram, thyme, and a hay-leaf,
and tie them tightly together with a piece of string.

12. Take the mushrooms, wash them, and cut off the
ends of the stalks.

13. Arrange the rolls of tripe and bacon in a stewpan.

14. Add all the vegetables and the herbs.

15. Pour in a pint of stock, and put the stewpan on the
fire.

16. When it just boils, remove the stewpan to the side
of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for two
hours.

17. After that time, take out the rolls of tripe and put
them on a plate.

18. Take a strainer, hold it over a basin, and strain the
stock.

TRIPE. 65

19. Put two ounces of butter into another stewpan, and
put it on the fire to melt.

20. When the Gutter is melted, add to it one ounce of
flour, and mix them smoothly together.

21. Now add the stock, and stir it over the fire until it
boils and thickens.

22. Take half a lemon, and squeeze the juice of it into
the sauce.

N. B. Be careful not to let any pips fall in.

23. Stir in one tdblespoonful of Harvey sauce and one
tdblespoonful of mushroom catchup, and season with pep-
per and salt.

24. E"ow place in the rolls of tripe, and let them warm
through.

25. Serve the rolls of tripe in a circle on a hot dish,
with some puree of carrot or spinach (see " Vegetables,"
Lessons Nos. 6 and 8), or with a mixture of vegetables
(according to taste) in the centre, and pour the sauce
round the edge.

CHAPTER VII.
ON COOKING MEAT.

LESSON FIRST.
BKAISED FILLET OF VEAL.

Ingredients. Three and one-half pounds of the fillet of veal. One-half a
pound of the fat of bacon. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay-
leaf. One onion. Three pints of good stock. Two young carrots. Celery
and turnip. Salt,

Time required, about one hour and a half. ( The stock should be made the day
before.)

To Braise a Fillet of Veal:

1. Takes three and a half pounds of the fillet of veal,
put it on a "board, and cut off all the skin with a sharp
knife.

2. Lard this fillet in the same way as for fillets of ~beef
(see " Entrees," Lesson No. 3, from Note 3 to Note 7).

3. Place the fillet carefully in a clean braising-pan.

4. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of a sprig of par-
sley, thyme, and a hay-leaf, all tied neatly and tightly
together.

5. Take two young carrots, wash them, scrape them
clean with a knife, and cut them in halves.

ON COOKING MEAT. 67

6. Take an onion and a quarter of a turnip, and peel
them carefully.

7. Add these vegetables, and half a stick of celery, to
the fillet in the braising-pan.

8. Now pour in about three pints of good stock (the
stock must not cover the meat), put the stewpan on the
fire, and baste the fillet continually.

9. Take a piece of kitchen-paper, cut a round to the
size of the braising-pan, and Gutter it.

10. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper
on the fillet in the stewpan.

N. B. This paper is to prevent the meat from browning too quickly.

11. Keep the lid of the braising-pan on 'and place it
in a hot oven, and let it cook slowly for one hour and a
quarter.

12. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the
veal with the stock.

13. Take the veal out of the braising-pan, and place it
on a hot dish.

N. B. Stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to keep warm
until the sauce is ready.

14. Put the braising-pan on the fire, and let the sauce
reduce to a half-glaze.

15. Then strain the glaze round the meat.

16. Serve it with dressed spinach (see "Vegetables,"
Lesson No. 8), or with dressed carrots and turnips (see
" Vegetables," Lesson No. 6).

flg LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SECOND,
BOAST BULLOCK'S HEAKT.

Ingredients. One bullock's heart. One-quarter of a pound of suet.
Three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs. A gill of milk. Salt and
pepper. One tablespoonful of chopped parsley. One dessertspoonful of
chopped mixed herbs thyme, lemon-thyme, and marjoram. One-quarter
of a pound of dripping. For sauce : One small onion. Salt and pepper.
One-half ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. One dessertspoonful of
catchup.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To Stuff a Bullock's Heart and Koast it :

1. Prepare the fire for roasting, as described in " Roast-
ing," Lesson No. 1.-

2. "Wash a bullocks heart thoroughly in salt and water.

3. Be careful to cleanse all the cavities of the heart,
and to remove all the blood.

4. Take it out of the salt and water and put it into a
basin of clean water, and wash it again until it is quite
clean.

5. Now wipe it thoroughly on a dry cloth.

6. If the heart is not quite dry, it will not roast prop-
erly.

7. Put the heart on a board, and, with a sharp knife,
cut off the flaps or deaf ears (as they are called).

N. B. These should be put aside for gravy.

8. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board,
cut away all the skvn, and chop it up as fine as possible.

9. Sprinkle a little flour over the suet, to prevent it
from sticking to the board or knife.

10. Grate some bread-crumbs with a grater on to the
board.

ON COOKING MEAT. 69

11. Take two or three sprigs of parsley, wash them in
cold water, and dry them in a cloth.

12. Put the parsley on a board, and chop it up as fine
as possible ; when chopped, there should be about one
tablespoonful.

13. Take a sprig of thyme, lemon-thyme, and marjoram,
rub them through a strainer, or chop them up finely on a
board ; there should be about one dessertspoonful of the
mixed herbs.

14. Now mix the chopped suet and bread-crumbs well
together.

15. Then add the parsley and the herbs, one teaspoonful
of salt, and pepper to taste, and mix them thoroughly
together.

16. Now mix it with one gill of milk.

17. Take the heart and fill all the cavities with the
stuffing, pressing it in as firmly as possible.

N. B. If there is any stuffing over, it can be put aside for the sauce.

18. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and grease it well
with a piece of butter or dripping.

19. Place this piece of greased paper over the top of
the heart where the cavities are, and tie it on tightly with
a string.

20. Put the roasting-oven in front of the fire.

21. Put the dripping-pan, or a large dish, down on a
stand within the oven, close to the fire, with the dripping-
ladle or a large spoon in it.

22. Hang the roasting-jack up in the oven, over the
dripping-pan.

N. B. If there is no roasting-jack, you can manage with a strong
piece of worsted tied to a hook in the top of the oven.

70 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

23. Wind up the jack with its key before you put the
meat on.

24. Take the hook of the roasting-jack and pass it
through the heart, and hang it on the jack or the worsted.

N. B. If the heart is hanging to a piece of worsted, twist the worsted
occasionally, to make it go round.

25. Put about one ounce of clarified dripping into the
dripping-pan, and baste the heart occasionally.

26. It will take about two hours to roast.

27. Now take the deaf ears out of the water and put
them into a saucepan, with one pint of cold water.

28. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

29. Take one small onion, peel it, and cut it in quarters.

30. When the water boils, put in the onion, and a little
salt and pepper to taste.

31. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire, put
the lid on, and let it stew gently until five minutes before
the heart is done.

32. Watch it, and skim it occasionally.

33. After that time, strain the liquor into a basin.

34. Wash out the saucepan and put in it one ounce of
butter, and put it on the fire to melt.

35. When the butter is melted, add one tablespoonfui
offiour, and mix them smoothly together with a wooden
spoon.

36. Now pour the liquor in by degrees, and stir smoothly
until it boils and thickens.

37. Then stand the saucepan by the side of the fire
until required for use.

38. When the heart is roasted, take it down, place it on
a hot dish, and draw out the hook.

39. Cut the string, and take off the greased paper.

ON COOKING MEAT. 71

40. If there be any stuffing left over, stir it now into
the sauce, and add one dessertspoonful of mushroom catchup.

N. B. If the flavoring of mushroom catchup is disliked, it may be
omitted.

41. Pour the sauce round the heart on the dish, and it
is ready for serving.

LESSON THIRD.
COENISH PASTIES.

Ingredients. One-half a pound of buttock steak, or beef skirt. Half a
pound of potatoes. One onion. One pound of flour. One-half a pound
of dripping. Salt and pepper., One teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required, about one hour.

To make Cornish Pasties :

1. Take half a pound of buttock steak, or ~beef shirt,
put it on a board, and cut it up into small pieces.

2. Take half a pound of 'potatoes ', wash and peel them,
put them on a board, and cut them up into small pieces.

3. Take one small onion, peel it, put it on a board,
and chop it up as fine as possible.

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a little
salt and a teaspoonful of baking-powder.

5. Put in half a pound of dripping, and rub it well
into the flour with your hands.

6. Now add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff
paste.

7. Flour a board, and turn the paste on to it.

8. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll the paste out
into a thin sheet, about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

9. Cut the paste into pieces about six or seven inches
square.

72 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

10. Place a little of the meat and potato in the centre of
each square ; sprinkle over it a little pepper and salt, and
a very little of the chopped onion.

11. Fold the paste over the meat, joining it by pressing
the edges together with your thumb and finger.

12. Grease a baking-tin, and put the pasties on it.

N. B. If there is no baking-tin, grease the shelf in the oven, to pre-
vent the pasties from sticking.

13. Put the tin into the oven to bake for from half an
hour to three-quarters of an hour.

14. For serving, put the pasties on a dish.

LESSON FOURTH.
A GRILLED OK BROILED STEAK.

Ingredients. One-half a pound of rump steak. Lemon, pepper, and salt.
Butter and salad-oil.

Time required, about ten minutes.

To Grill a Steak (either ~beef or rump stealc will do,
but the latter is more tender) :

1. Take a small bunch of parsley, wash it, dry it well
in a cloth, and put it on a board.

2. Chop the parsley up very fine with a knife.

3. Take a quarter of an ounce of ~butter and mix it
well with the chopped parsley.

4. Sprinkle over it pepper and salt (according to taste),
and six drops of lemon-juice.

5. Make it all up into a small pat.

6. Take half a pound of rump steak, half an inch in
thickness.

7. Pour about a tablespoonful of salad-oil on to a plate.

OX COOKING MEAT. 73

8. Dip both sides of the steak into the oil.

9. Take a gridiron and warm it well by the fire.

10. Place the oiled steak on the gridiron, close to the
fire, to cook quickly.

N.B. If the meat is at all frozen, it must be warmed gradually
through before putting it quite near the fire, or it will be tough.

11. Turn the gridiron with the steak occasionally; it
will take from ten to twelve minutes, according to the
brightness and heat of the fire.

12. When the steak is sufficiently cooked, place it on a
hot dish; and be careful not to stick the fork into the
meat (or the gravy will run out), but into the fat.

13. Take the pat of green butter and put it on the steak,
spreading it all over with a knife.

LESSON FIFTH.
LIVER AND BACON.

Ingredients. Two pounds of sheep's liver. One pound of bacon. One
dessertspoonful of flour. One small onion.

Time required, about half an hour.

To Cook Liver and Bacon :

1. Take one pound of bacon, put it on a board, and
cut it in thin slices.

2. Cut the rind off each slice of bacon.

3. Put these slices of bacon into a frying-pan.

4. Put the frying-pan on the fire, to fry the bacon it
will take about ten minutes.

N. B. If the bacon is not very fat, put a small piece of dripping in
the frying-pan with it.

5. Turn it when one side is fried.

74 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Now take a sheep's liver (it will weigh about two
pounds), put it on a board, and cut it in slices.

7. Put about two tablespoonfuls of flour on a plate.

8. Dip the slices of liver into the flour, and flour them
well on both sides.

9. When the "bacon is fried, take it out of the frying-
pan and put it on a warm dish.

10. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm.

11. Put the slices of liver in the frying-pan, a few at a
time, as they must not be on the top of each other.

N. B. If the flavor of onion is liked, a small onion, peeled and cut in
slices, might be fried with the liver.

12. The liver will take about a quarter of an hour to fry.

13. Watch it occasionally, and turn it once.

14. To see when the Uver is sufficiently cooked, cut a
slice ; the inside should be of a brownish color.

15. When the liver is all- cooked, place it on the dish
with the bacon.

16. Put a dessertspoonful of flour in a cup, and mix it
into a smooth paste with nearly a gill of water.

17. Pour the flour and water into the frying-pan, and
stir it until it boils and thickens.

18. Pour this sauce over the liver and "bacon.

LESSON SIXTH.
MEAT PIE (BEEF STEAK).

Ingredients. One pound and a half of buttock steak. Half a pound of
bullock's kidney. Seasoning. One pound of flour. One-half a pound of
clarified dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required, about two hours and a quarter.

To make Meat Pie :

1. Cut into thin slices one pound and a half of "buttock
steaJc.

ON COOKING MEAT. 75

2. Cut away all the skin.

3. Put on a plate half a pound of bullock's kidney, and
cut it in thin slices.

4. Mix well together, on a plate, one tdblespoonful of
flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper.

5. Dip each slice of meat and kidney into the season-
ing, and roll them up into little rolls.

6. Arrange these rolls in a quart pie-dish, and fill it
two-thirds full of water.

7. Put one pound of flour into a basin.

8. Add one teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a salt-
spoonful of salt to the flour, and mix them well together.

9. Cut half a pound of clarified dripping in small
pieces, and rub it well into ihejlour with your hands.

N. B. Be careful that there are no lumps of dripping in the flour.

10. Then add, by degrees, enough cold water to make
it into a stiff paste.

11. Take a rolling-pin and flour it ; sprinkle flour on
the board, and flour your hands, to prevent the paste
from sticking.

12. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on a board.

13. Roll out the paste once to the shape of the pie-dish,
only rather larger, and to the thickness of about one-third
of an inch.

14. "Wet the edge of the dish with water.

15. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut a strip of the
paste the width of the edge of the pi