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1
LEWIS AND CLARKE'S
TO THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS
In tl)e gears 1804,-5,-6;
AS RELATED BY
PATRXCK GASS,
ONE OF THE OFFICERS IN THE EXPEDITION.
New Edition with Numerous Engravings.
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Entered according to act of Congress by In the year 184:6, in the District Court of Ohio
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
5 6 0 8 5 0
A8T0R, LENOX AND TILOEN FOwNDATjeWS* ,
R- — t91£ IL
P E ® J2l CI « .
i
OF the various publications which unite amusement and infor- mation, few can be justly held in higher estimation than the Journals and Narratives of Travelers and Voyagers; and in our highly favored country, the diffusion of general knowledge, the enterprizing spirit of the people, their commercial pursuits and habits of emigration, render such works particularly valuable and interesting; while the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free American, by amplifying and embellishing the scenes presented to its view, enjoys the choicest luxuries of the entertainment they are calculated to afford. If it is conceded that discoveries made in North America are more important to the people of the United States than those made elsewhere, it will not be difficult to shew that none could have been made of so much importance to them in any part of the world as in the large tracts of country through which the late expedition, under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, passed. For, if we take a view of the different
PREFACE. V
discoveries and Bettlements previously made, we will find that those tracts through which the Missouri and Columbia rivers and their branches flow, commonly called unknown regions, were tlie only parts remaining unexplored, which could be considered valu- able.
The first discovery of the Western World by Europeans of which we have any authentic accounts, being near the southern extremity of North America, drew, as might be expected, their attention to that quarter; and the range which this grand discov- ery excited for other enterprizes of the same nature, the avidity with which avarice was stimulated to seize the precious metals, known to exist in those parts, the means held out for gratifying ambition, and the prospects of a lucrative commerce, with many other objects and considerations tended largely to extend them, while the diminution of the Northern Continent to a narrow isthmus, and its large gulfs, bays, and rivers, furnished and facilitated the means of exploring it. The spirit of enterprize, however, was not confined to the southern extremity; but extend- ing itself to the climates congenial with tliose which it had left, and connecting with its researches the planting of colonies, im- portant discoveries were made along the Atlantic coasts. In the mean time the project of discovering a north west passage to the East Indies led the boldest naval commanders of Europe through the inland seas, bays, and straits of the north; and at length pro- duced surveys of the shores of the Pacific. To these discoveries, and those occasionally made during the settlement of the country within the limits of the United States and in Canada, the Hudson's Bay Company, though not famed for enterprize, added something to the stock of general information, and by their establishments aided others in their enterprizes. Mr. Hearne, under the direction of this company, in an expedition which lasted from the 7th of December 1770 to the 30th of June 1772, proceeded from Prince of Wales' Fort, on the Churchhill River in latitude 58° 47im. north, and longitude 94*^ 7im. west of Greenwich, or 19"^ west of Philadelphia, to the mouth of the Coppermine River, which, according to some accounts, is in latitude 72*^ north, and longitude 119° west from Greenwich, or 44° west of Philadelphia: but is laid down by others to be in latitude about 69° north, and longi- tude 112° west from Greenwich or 37° west from Philadelphisu
vi PREFACE.
Whatever the confined views and contracted policy of the Hudson's Bay Company may, however, have omitted in the way of discovery, the enterprize and perseverance of the Canadian traders, some- time since united under the name of the North West Company, have amply supplied. Prior to the year 1789, they had extended their discoveries and establishments along the numerous lakes and rivers situated north of that high tract of country which divides the Missouri waters from those which run towards the north and east, to within a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the summer of this year Mr. M'Kenzie made a voyage from Fort Chepew ;> m on the Lake of the Hills in latitude 58° 40m. north, and lon;/itude 1 10° 30m. west from Greenwich or 35° 22m. west from Philadelphia, by the way of the Slave River, Slave Lake, and a river by which this lake discharges its waters (since called M'Kenzie's River) to the mouth of that river where it falls into the North Sea, in latitude 69" l4m. north and longitude 135° west from GreeuAvich, or 59° 52m. west from Philadelphia. He again in the year 1783 penetrated from an establishment on the Peace River in latitude 56° 9m. north, and longitude 117° 35m. west from Greenwich, or 41° 27m. west from Philadelpdia, to the Pacif- ic ocean in latitude 52° 24m. north, and longitude 128° 2m. west from Greenwich, or 52° 54m. west from Philadelphia.
By the discoveries alluded to, and those occasionally made during the rapid settlement of the country and the progress of enterprize, the principal divisions of this Northern Continent has been explored and become known. The line separating these from the parts which remained unexplored and unknown, may be con- sidered as commencing at the Pacific Ocean in latitude about 38'' north, and running along the high-lands and mountains between the waters which fall into the gulfs of California and Mexico and those which fall into the Missouri River, and continuing in that direction to the Mississippi; thence up the River to the source of its highest northwestern branch; thence along the high tract of country which divides the waters of the Missouri from those which fall into Hudson's Bay and the North Sea; from whence it will continue across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean in lati- tude about 52° north. To the south of this general division line, the known countries will be Old and New Mexico and a part of Louisiana, to the southeast. West and East Florida; to the east,
PREFACE. TU
the United States; to the northeast, Canada, the Labrador country, part of New South Wales and of oUier countries round Hudson's Bay: and to the north, part of New South Wales, New North Wales, the Athabasca and other countries containing the establish- ments of the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies, and those explored by Hearne and M'Kenzie: leaving unknown and unex- plored (except so far as the surveys made by navigators of the coast of the Pacific, and the imperfect accounts of traders who have ascended the Missouri have furnished information) all that large intermediate tract, containing in breadth about 1800 miles, and by the way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers nearly twice that distance. This tract from its situation may be supposed to contain the chief part of those lands in the great western division of the continent of North America fit for tillage; and this circumstance will, therefore, in a special manner claim the attention of an agri- cultural people, render more interesting a description of them, and attach additional value to the history of the country. It will not be forgotten that an immense sum of treasure has been expend- ed in the purchase of this country, and that it is now considered as belonging to the United States. Here, at no distant period, settle- ments may be formed; and in a much shorter term than has elapsed since the first were made in America, from which hath arisen a great, powerful, and independent nation, the posterity of the pres- ent inhabitants of the Union may unfurl the standard of independ- ence on the plains of the Missouri and Columbia.
With respect to tlie accuracy of the relations given in the follow- ing pages, it may be necessary to inform those readers not acquaint- ed with the fact, that the principal object in sending out the expedition was to gain some correct account of the country; and that this might be done more effectually, and the information col- lected, preserved with more certainty, it was enjoined upon the several persons belonging to the corps, who were considered capable, to keep journals, and every necessary information and assistance given them for that purpose. These journals were also from time to time compared, corrected, and any blanks, which had been left, filled up, and unavoidable omissions supplied. By thus multiply- ing the journals revising and correcting them, the chances of securing to th© country a true account of the progress of the discoveries which should be made, especially should the party be
viii P R E F A E C .
attacked and defeated by the savages, or meet with any other disas- ters in their hazardous enterprize, were also multiphed.
The following is an extract of a certificate delivered by Captain Lewis to Mr. Gass, dated St. Louis, Oct. 10, 1806.
♦* As a tribute justly due to the merits of the said Patrick Gass, •'I with cheerfulness declare, that the ample support, which he "gave me under every difficulty, the manly firmness which he "evinced on every necessary occeision, and the fortitude with " which he bore the fatigues and painful sufferings incident to that "long voyage, entitles him to my highest confidence and sincere " thanks, while it eminently recommends him to the consideration "and respect of his fellow citizens."
In determining the form in which the work should appear, the publisher had some difficulty. Two plans presented themselves. The one was to preserve the form of a daily journal (in which the original had been kept) and give a plain description of the coun- try and a simple relation of occurrences equally intelligible to all readers; leaving to every person an opportunity of embellishing the scenes presented to him in his own way. The other plan was to more fully digest the subject, make the narrative more general* and, assuming less of the journal form and style, describe and clothe the principal parts of it as his fancy might suggest. However far the latter might have been proper had a foreign country been the subject, and the principal object of the publication, mere amuse- ment, many objections occurred to it in the present case, and rendered the former the most eligible, especially as by it the climate and face of the country will be more satisfactorily described. And Mr. Gass having declared that the beauties and deformities of its grandest scenes were equally beyond the power of description, no attempts have been made either by him or the publisher to give adequate representations of them.
The publisher hopes that the curiosity of the reader will be in some degree gratified; that the information furnished will not be uninteresting; and that some aid will be furnished those who wish to acquire a geographical knowledge of their country. March 26, 1807.
TF
PU3UC L
A8T0R, LENOX /'D TILDEN FOUNDA-
a7iuit?i
^IIE NjEVV VORK
^STOR, LENOX AND T1LD£N FOUNDATIONS.
JOURNAL
TO THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
CHAPTER I.
ON Monday, the 14th, of May, 1804, we left our estab- lishment at the mouth of the River du Bois or Wood River, a small river which falls into the Mississippi, on the east side, a mile below the Missouri, and having crossed the Mississippi, proceeded up the Missouri on our voyage of discovery, under the command of Capt. Clark. Captain Lewis was to join us in two or three days on our passage.
The corps consisted of forty-three men, (including Captain Lewis and Captain Clark, who were to command the expedition, ) part of the regular troops of the United States, and part for this particular enterprize. The expedition was embarked on board a batteau and two periogues. The day was showery, and in the evening we encamped on the north bank six miles up the river. Here we had leisure to reflect on our situation, and the nature of our engagements, and, as we had all entered this service as volunteers, to consider how far we stood pledged for the success of an expedition which the government had projected, and which had been under- taken for the benefit and at the expense of the Union, of course of much interest and high expectation.
The best authenticated accounts informed us, that we were to pass through the country possessed by numerous, powerful and warlike nations of savages, of gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous, and cruel ; and particularly hostile to white men. And fame had united with tradi- tion in opposing mountains to our course, which human enterprize and exertion would attempt in vain to pass.
/
14 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
\
The determined and resolute character, however, of the corps, and the confidence which pervaded all ranks dispelled every emotion of fear and anxiety for the present; while a sense of duty, and of the honour, which would attend the completion of the object of the expe- dition, a wish to gratify the expectations of the govern- ment and of our fellow citizens, with the feelings which novelty and discovery invariably inspire, seemed to insure to us ample support in our future toils, sufferings, and dangers.
On the 15. We continued our voyage. It rained in the morning ; but in the afternoon we had clear weather, and encamped at night on the north side of the river.
Wednesday 16. We had a fine pleasant morning; embarked early, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon arrived at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A number of inhabi- tants came To see us. This is an old French village, in the country around which, a number of Americans have settled.
We remained at St. Charles until the 21st, where Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under a salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which we returned with three more and a discharge of three guns. This evening was showery, and we again encamped on the north side of the river.
Tuesday 22. We continued our voyage ; passed Bon- um Creek on the south side, and having made fifteen miles, encamped at the Cliffs on the north side of the river. Here we were visited by some Indians.
Wednesday 23. At 6 o'clock in the morning we pro- ceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather. Passed the mouth of the Osage River on the south side, about a mile and a half below the Tavern Cove — a noted place among the French traders. One mile above this is the Tavern Creek. We encamped this evening on the south side of the river, and had our arms and ammunition inspected.
Thursday 24. We continued our voyage, and en- camped at night on the south side. This day our boat turned in a ripple, and nearly upset.
AS RELATED BY PATERICK GASS. IS
Friday 23. We proceeded tliree miles and passed a creek on the south side, called Wood River; the banks of the river arc here high and tlie land rich. Arrived at St. Johns, a small French village situated on the north side, and encamped a quarter of a mile above it. This is the last settlement of white people on the river.
Saturday 26. This morning two of our people set out by land with a couple of horses. At seven we em- barked and had ^loud thunder and heavy rain; passed Otter Creek on the north side, and encamped near its mouth.
Sunday 27. We passed Ash Creek where there are high cliffs on the south side, and at five in the afternoon arrived at the mouth of Gaskenade River. On the south side one of our party killed a deer. We encamped for the night on an island opposite the mouth of Gaskenade River. This is a very handsome place, — a rich soil and pleasant country.
Monday 28. Our provisions and stores were put out to air and dry, and several of our men sent out to hunt. One of them killed a deer. The mouth of the Gasken- ade River is 157 yards wide.
Tuesday 29. Seven men were sent out to hunt, six of whom returned. We waited here until 5 o'clock P. M. for the man who had not come in, and then pro- ceeded three miles, passing Deer Creek on the south side. A periogue and eight men had been left for the hunter who had not returned.
Wednesday 30. After experiencing a very disagreea- ble night, on account of the rain, we continued our voyage at seven o'clock A. M. and passed a cove where there were high cliffs on the north side opposite an island, called Slombran's Tavern. At twelve we had a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with hail ; passed a creek called Rush Creek, on the north side, and four miles futher. Mud Creek on the same side. Here the soil is good, with cotton wood, sycamore, oak, hickory, and white walnut, with some grape vines and an abund- ance of rushes. We halted and encamped at Grindstone Creek on the south side of the river.
16 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Thursday 31. We were obliged to remain at this encampment all day, on account of a strong wind from the west. An Indian man and a squaw came down the river with two canoes, loaded with fur and peltry, and remained with us all night. Some of our hunters went out and killed a deer.
Friday, June 1, 1804. Before daylight we embarked and proceeded on our voyage; passed Big Muddy Cre ik on the north side, and on the opposite side saw high banks. Two and a half miles higher up, we passed Bear Creek, and at four o'clock P. M. arrived at the Osage River; where we remained during the evening and the next day. The Osage River is 197 yards wide at its confluence with the Missouri, which, at this place, is 875 yards broad. The country on the south side is broken, but rich, and the land on the other of a most excellent quality. The two men that went by land with the horses came to us here: they represented the land they had passed through as the best they had ever seen, and the timber good, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, hickory and black walnut. They killed in their way five deer. The periogue left at the mouth of Gaskenade River, came up with the man who had been lost. Here our hunters went out and killed three deer. The Osage nations of Indians live about two hundred miles up this river. They are of a large size and well proportioned, and a very warlike people. Our arms and ammunition were all in- spected here and found in good order.
Sunday 3. Captain Lewis, with one of the men went out and killed a deer. At five in the afternoon we em- barked, and, having proceeded six miles, encamped at the mouth of Morrow Creek on the south side.
Monday 4. We continued our voyage, and during the day broke our mast by steering too close to the shore. In the evening we encamped on the south side, near lead mines, when our hunters came in with seven deer.
Tuesday 5. We passed Mine Creek on the south side, and Little Goodwoman Creek on the north : also the Creek of the Big Rock. We met two Frenchmen
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 17
in two canoes laden with peltry: passed a high cliff of rocks on the south side. The land about this place is good and well timbered.
On the 6. Wc passed Saline Creek on the south side ; and on the 7ih, the river of the Big Devil on the north; and Big Goodwoman's Creek on the same side, where we encamped.
Friday 8. Wc embarked and proceeded five miles, when wo met four canoes loaded with fur and peltry: and passed the Mine River on the south side, which is 150 yards wide. The land here is also good and well limbered.
Saturday 9. We passed the Prairie of Arrows and Arrow Creek on the south side. This is a beautiful country and the land excellent. The Missouri is hero only 300 yards wide, and the current very strong. Three miles further we passed Blackbird Creek on the north side, and encamped. This day going round some drift wood, the stern of the boat became fast, when she immediately swung round, and was in great danger; but we got her olf without much injury.
Sunday 10. Wc proceeded five miles, passed Deer-lick Creek on the north side; and three miles further the Two Charlottes on the same side. The mouths of these two rivers are very near each other: the first 70 and the other 100 yards wide. Wc encamped on the south sido of the river at a prairie, and remained there the whole of the next day, the wind blowing too violent for us to proceed.
Tuesday 12. We set out early, and proceeded until five o'clock in the afternoon, v/hen wc met five periogucs loaded with fur and peltry from the Sioux nation of Indians. We remained with the people to whom these periogues belonged all night; and got from them an old Frenchman, v/ho could speak the languages of the dif- ferent nations of Indians up the Missouri, and who agreed to go with us as an interpreter.
Wednesday 13. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a small creek on the north side in a long bend of the river, and encamped at the mouth of Grand River on
2
18 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
the North side. This is as handsome a place as I ever saw in an uncultivaU'd slate.
Thursday 14. At five o'clock in the morning we con- tinued our voyage. The river having risen during the night was difficult lo ascend. At noon we passed some Frenchmen from the Poencso or Ponis nation of Indians, where they spent the last winter. In the eve- ning we passed Snake Creek on the north side and encamped on the same.
Friday 15. We renewed our voyage at five in the morning, and had very rapid water. There is a beau- tiful Prairie on the south side and the land high. Mul- berries are in great abundance almost all along the river. We encamped on the north side, opposite an old Indian village.
Saturday 16. Three men went out this morning to look for timber to make oars, but could find none suitable. On their return we continued our voyage; had cloudy weather and rapid water all day and encamped on the north side
Sunday 17. This morning was clear and at five wo renewed our voyage. Having proceeded about a mile we halted to get timber for oars; and while we remained here to make them our hunters came in and brought with them a handsome horse, which they had found astray. They also brought a bear, which thoy had killed.
Monday 18. We remained here all day; and our hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south side there is high land and a long prairie; on the north the land is level and well timbered, with ash, sugar tree, black walnut, buck-eye, cotton wood and some other timber.
Tuesday 19. We passed Tabo Creek on the south side, and a small creek on the north; and encamped on the south side opposite a small lake about two miles distant.
Wednesday 20. At five in the morning we continued our voyage, passed Tigc^r Creek, a large creek iliat Hows in from the north, and encamped on an island. The land along here is good on both sides of the river.
On the 21. We had rapid water, and for about a
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. t9
mile had to warp up our boat by a rope. A creek called Du Beau or l)u Bois, falls in on the south side behind an island. We encamped in the evening on the south side.
Friday 22. It rained hard from four to seven in the morning, when we continued our voyage. About twelve one of our men went out and killed a large bear. We encamped at a handsome prairie on the south side oppo- site a large creek, called the Fire-prairie, and which is 60 yards wide.
Saturday 23. W^e set out at five in the morning; at twelve the wind blew so strong down the river that we were unable to proceed, and we encamped on an island and inspected the arms and ammunition. Captain Clarke went out with one of the men and did not return this evening.
Sunday 24. We had a fme morning, embarked at five and pursued our voyage : at nine Ca{)tain Clarke came to us and brought with him two deer and a bear. We passed a creek on the south side called Depie. At twelve we stopped to jirk* our meat, and again proceeded at two; passed a creek on the north side and encamped on the south bank of the river.
Monday 23. The morning was foggy, and at seven o'clock we pursued our voyage. The river here is nar- row with high land on the south side. We passed a creek on the south side called Labenile, and encamped on an island.
Tuesday 26. We embarked and set out at five o'clock In the morning;' passed a creek on the south side, called Blue-water. This afternoon we had some difficulty in passing a sand-bar, the tow-rope having broke ; but by the exertions of those on board, the boat was brought to shore without injury. We encamped on the south side on a point at the confluence of the Canzan, or Kanzas River with the Missouri. It was agreed to remain here during the 27th and 28th where we pitched our tents and built bowers in front of them. Canzan or Kanzas, is two hun- dred and thirty and a quarter yards wide, and navigable
* Jirk is meat cut into small pieces and dried in the sun or by a fire. The Indians cure and preserve their meat in this way with- out salt.
20 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
to a great distance. Our hunters killed four deer, and a young wolf, and caught another alive. In the afternoon of the 29th wc again proceeded on our voyage, and encamped on the north side of the river.
Saturday 30. The day was clear and wg continued our voyage; found high land on both sides of the river; and passed a large creek on the north side, called Piatt, fifty yards wide. We broke our mast and encamped on the south side, where there were the most signs of game I ever saw.
Sunday July 1, 1804. We set out at five in the morn- ing, and having advanced twelve miles, encamped on an island opposite a prairie on the south side of the river.
Monday 2. At sunrise we continued our voyage, and met a quantity of drift-wood which was carried down the stream ; this morning we passed a creek on the south side and encamped on the north opposite an old French village and fort, but all vacant.
Tuesday 3. We proceeded again at five, and continu- ed our voyage until twelve, when we stoped at an old trading place on the south side of the river. There we found a grey horse ; but saw no appearance of any persons having lately encamped at that place.
Wednesday 4. We lired a swivel at sunrise in honor of the day, and continued our voyage; passed a creek on the north side, called Pond Creek, and at one o'clock stopt to dine. One of our people got snake bitten, but not dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voyage, passed a creek on the north side, which we called Inde- pendence, encamped on the north side at an old Indian village situated in a handsome prairie, and saluted the departing day with another gun.
Thursday 5. We proceeded on our voyage at five in the morning; and found the land high on the south side. We went through a large bend full of sand bars where we had some difficulty in passing; and encamped on the south side at high prairie land.
Friday 6. We set out early this morning; had a fme day, and made a good days voyage: and encamped on the south side, at Whippowil Creek.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 21
Saturday 7. At an early hour we proceeded on our voyage, passed a high handsome prairie on the north side, and killed a wolf and a large wood rat on the bank. The principle difference between it and the common rat is, its having hair on its tail.
Sunday 8. We were under way this morning before daylight. The river here is crooked and narrow. At one we came to a large island, with only a small stream on the north side which we went up. A large creek called Nadowa flows in from the north; and on this side we encamped.
Monday 9. Early this morning we continued our voyage. It rained hard till twelve o'clock. We passed a creek on the south side, called W^olf Creek. The man that was snake bitten is become well. We encamped on the south side.
Tuesday 10. Wc set out early this morning and had a fair day, and fair wind. There is a handsome prairie on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on the north side.
W^ednesday 1 1 . W^e also embarked early this morn- ing; passed a creek on the north side, called Tarico, and halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha on the south side of the river. Seven hunters went out to day and two of them brought in five deer. Here we found another horse on the bank of the river, supposed to have been left by a hunting party last winter. Two of our men, who had gone to hunt on the south side of the river, did not return at night.
Thursday 12. We remained here this day, that the men, who were much fatigued, might take some rest. The hunters who had remained on the south side of the river all night, came in, but had killed nothing. Two more went to hunt on the north side and killed two deer.
Friday 13. W^e were early under way this morning with a fair wind. The day was fine. We passed a creek on the north side, and having made twenty and a half miles, encamped on a large sand bar.
Saturday 14. At day break it began to rain and con- tinued until seven when it abated, and we set forward :
22 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
but in a short time a gust of wind and rain came on so violent, that all hands had to leap into the water to save the boat. Fortunately this storm did not last long, and we went on to a convenient place and landed. Here we continued two hours and then proceeded. We saw some elk, but could not kill any of them ; passed a river on the north side, called Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the south side.
Sunday 15. We got under way at six o'clock; passed a creek on the south side; and gathered some ripe grapes. There is high land and prairies on this side. Caj)tain Clarke and two men went by land. At the head of an island, called Elk island, we found some pummice stono among the drift wood. We passed a creek on the south side, called Na-ma-ha, and encamped on the same.
Monday 16. Early in the morning we proceeded on our voyage opposit3 a prairie ; had a fine day and fair wind, and passed a long island, above which is a place where the bank has slipped into the river. There are high rocky cliffs on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north : on which side we encamped. The river here is two miles wide with rapid water. Two of our hunters met us here with two deer.
Tuesday 17. We remained here all day: and one of our hunters killed three deer.
Wednesday 18. Early this morning we prosecuted our voyage with a fair wind and pleasant weather. This is the most open country 1 ever beheld, almost one continued prairie. Two of our hunters went by land with the horses as usual. On the south side we passed high handsome banks or bluffs of red and blue strata; found some iron ore here, and encamped on the south side, where one of our hunters brought us two deer.
Thursday 19. At sun rise we renewed our voyage, and passed a number of sand bars, and high land on the south side. Where we halted for dinner, we found a great quantity of cherries, called by some, choak cherries. We encamped for the night on an island of Willows.
Friday 20. We embarked early; passed high yellow banks on the south side and a creek, called the Water-
•
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09
2
24 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.
whicli-cries, or the weeping stream, opposite a willow island, and encamped on a prairie on the south side.
Saturday 21. We set out early. It rained this morn- ing but we had a fine breeze of wind. There arc a great many willow islands and sand-bars in this part of" the river. At nine the wind fell, and at one we came to the great river Platte, or shallow river, which comes in on the south side, and at the mouth is three quarters of a mile broad. The land is flat about the confluence. Up this river live three nations of Indians, the Otos, Panis and Loos, or Wolf Indians. On the south side there is also a creek, called Butterfly Creek.
Sunday 22. We left the river Platte and proceeded early on our voyage, with fair weather. There is high prairie land on the south side, with some timber on the northern parts of the hills. We came nine miles from the mouth of Platte River, and landed on the willow bank. The hunters killed five deer and caught two beaver.
Monday 23. Six men were sent out to make oars; and two to a nation of Indians up the Platte Eiver, to inform them of the change of government in this coun- try, and that we were here ready to treat with them. Wo hoisted a flag, and sent them another.
Our people were all busily engaged in hunting, making oars, dressing skins, and airing our stores, provisions and baggage. We killed two deer and caught two beaver. Beaver appear plenty in this part of the country.
We continued here until the 27. On the 24th there were some showers; but during the remainder of the time there was clear weather. Our people were generally employed as before. The hunters killed five more deer; and the two men returned from the Indian village, with- out finding any of the natives.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 25
CHAPTER II.
Friday 27. This forenoon wc were engaged in load- ing the "boats and preparing to start. At twelve we pro- ceeded with a fair wind, and pleasant weather; went twelve miles, and encamped on a handsome prairie on the south side.
Saturday 28. We set out early; had a cloudy morning; passed some beautiful hills and prairies, and a creek called Round-Knob Creek, on the north side; and high bluffs on the south. We encamped on the north side. Here two of our hunters came to^is, accompanied by one of the Oto Indians.
Sunday 29. We embarked early, and continued our vovasre. One of our Frenchmen went with the Indian to bring more of them to meet us at some convenient landing place. At twelve one of our hunters came in with a deer and some elk meat. We renewed our voy- age at three, passed a bank, where there was a quantity of fallen timber, and encamped on the north side.
Monday 30. Our grey horse died last night. We set out early, and the hunters met us with a deer. At nine we came to some timber land at the foot of a high bluff and encamped there in order to wait for the Indians. At the top of the bluff is a large handsome prairie, and a large pond, or small lake about two miles from camp on the south side of the river. Two of our hunters went out and killed an animal, called a prarow, about the size of a ground hog and nearly of the same colour. It has a head similar to that of a dog, short legs and largo claws on its fore feet ; some of the claws are an inch and a half long.* Our hunters again went out, but did not return this day.
Tuesday 31. One of our men went to visit some traps he had set, and in one found a young beaver, but little hurt and brought it in alive. In a short time
*See Plate.
26 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
he went out an^ain and killed a large buck. Two other hunters came in about twelve, who had killed two deer; but lost the horses. One of them with two other per- sons were sent out to hunt them, who returned at dark without finding them ; and supposed they had been stolen by the Indians.
Wednesday August 1. 1804. Three of our men again went out to hunt the horses, but returned without them. They brought a deer, and two of our other hunters killed two more.
Thursday 2. Some hunters went out this morning: and two of them returned with the horses and an elk they had killed. The others brought in two large bucks and a fawn. The Indians we expected came at dark; but our Frenchman was not with them. We supposed he had been lost. This place wc named Council-Bluff, and by observation found to be in latitude 41° 17' north.
Friday 3. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a council with the Indians, who appeared well pleased with the change of government, and what had been done for them. Six of them were made chiefs, three Oto8 and three Missouris.
We renewed our voyage dx three o'clock ; went six miles and encamped on the south side; where we had a storm of wind and rain, which lasted two hours.
Saturday 4. We were early under way this morning, and had a fair day. We passed a creek on the south side, which came out of ponds. One of our men went out this morning and did not return : another came to us and brought a deer. We encamped on the south side.
Sunday 5. Wc set out early, but a storm of rain and wind obliged us to stop two hours. It then cleared and we continued our voyage; passed prairies on both sides, and cncamj)cd on the north side. The river here is very crooked and winding. To arrive at a point only three hundred and seventy yards from this place, the passage by water is twelve miles.
Monday G. We proceeded at an early hour this morning, after a stormy night of wind and rain; passed a creek on the north side, at the back of an island, called Soldiers Creek; and encamped on the south side.
28 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Tuesday 7. We set out early this morning and con- tinued our voyage till twelve, when four of our people were dispatched to the Oto nation of Indians after the man who had not returned on the 4th, with orders to take him dead or alive, if they could see him. There is no limhcr in this country, except some cotton wood and willows in the bends of the river. All the high land is a continued prairie. Wc encamped on the north side. The musketoes here arc very numerous and trouble- some.
Wednesday 8. Wc embarked early, passed a small river on the north side, called Little Sioux. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. One of the hunters killed a pelican on a sand bar, and Captain Lewis killed another very large. We encamped on the north bank. In the bag under the bill and neck of the pelican, which Captain Lewis killed, we put five gallons of water.
Thursday 9. The fog was so thick this morning, that we could not proceed before seven, when we went on under a gentle breeze, and having advanced eleven miles, came to a place where the river by cutting through a narrow neck of land, reduced the distance fifteen miles. Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt, and killed a small turkey. We encamped on the south side, where we found the musketoes very troublesome.
Friday 10. We embarked early, passed high yellow banks on the south side, and encamped on the north.
Saturday 11. A storm came on at three o'clock this morning and continued till nine; notwithstanding which, we kept under way till ten, when we came to a high bluff, where an Indian Chief had been buried, and placed a flag upon a pole, which had been set up at his grave. His name was Blackbird, king of the Mahas; an absolute monarch while living, and the Indians suppose can exer- cise the power of one though dead. We encamped in latitude 42° 1 ' 3s. three, as ascertained by observation.
Sunday 12. We embarked and got under way before daylight. The musketoes last night were worse than I ever experienced. We went around a bend, of
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 29
eighteen miles, the neck of which was only nine hundred and seventy Ibur yards across; passed high bUiffs of yellow clay on the south side of the river and low land on the north; and encamped on a sand Island.
Monday 13. We proceeded this morning with a fair wind ; and at two landed on a sandy beach, near the Maha village, on the south side of the river. A sergeant and one man were sent to the village, who did not return this day.
Tuesday 14. The sergeant and man returned from the village ; but they had found no Indians there. Some of our hunters went out but killed nothing. Game appears scarce here. While at this place wc provided ourselves with a new mast.
Wednesday 15. Captain Clarke and ten of the party went to the Maha Creek to fish, and caught three hundred and eighty seven fish of different kinds. We discovered smoke on the opposite side of the river, and four men crossed to see if any of the Mahas or Sioux Indians wero there ; but could not discover any. There had been fire there some days, and the wind lately blowing hard had caused the fire to spread and smoke to rise. We continued at this place until the 20ih. Captain Lewis went with a party of twelve men to fish and took seven hundred and nine fish, one hundred and sixty seven of which were large pike. The fish here are generally pike, cat, sun, perch and other common fish. What we caught were taken with trails or bush nets. On the 18th, the party who had been sent in pursuit of the man who had been absent since the 4th, returned with him, and eight Indians and a Frenchman ; but left our Frenchman be- hind who had gone out to hunt the horses. On the 19th, a council was held with these Indians, who appeared to wish to make peace with all nations. This day ser- geant Floyd became very sick and remained so all night. He was seized with a complaint somewhat like a violent colic.
Monday 20. Sergeant Floyd continued very ill. We embarked early, and proceeded, having a fair wind and fine weather, till two o'clock, when we landed for
30 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
dinner. Here sergeant Floyd died, notwithstanding every possible effort was made by the commanding offi- cers, and other persons, to save his life. We went on about a mile to high prairie hills on the north side of the river, and there interred his remains in the most decent manner our circumstances would admit; we then proceeded a mile further to a small river on the same side and encamped. Our commanding officers gave it the name of Floyd's River; to perpetuate the memory of the first man who had fallen in this important expedition.
Tuesday 21. AVe set out early; passed handsome pale coloured bluffs, Willow Creek and the Sioux River on the north side : and having come upwards of twenty miles, encamped on the south side.
Wednesday 22. We i)roceeded early upon our voyage ; passed bluffs on the soutli side, where there is copperas, allum and ore of some kind; also passed a creek. The high land on the south side for nine or ten miles runs close to the river, where there are cedar bluffs of various colours. W^e encamped on the north side.
Thursday 23. We proceeded early this morning with a fair wind. The river here becomes more straicrht than we had found it for a great distance below. Captain Clarke and one of the men killed a deer and a buffalo, and some of the men were sent to dress and bring the buffalo to the boat. We stoped at a prairie on the north side, the largest and handsomest, which I had seen. Captain Clarke called it Buffalo Prairie. The men having return- ed, we again went on ; but the wind changed and we were obliged to halt for the present. While we were detained here, we salted two barrels of buffalo meat. At five in the evening we proceeded some distance and encamped on the south side.
Friday 24. This morning was'cloudy with some rain. Captain Clarke went by land. We passed cedar bluffs on the north side, a part of which were burning; and thero are here to be found mineral substances of various kinds. There is also a quantity of small red berries, the Indian name for whiclvin English means rabbit berries. They are handsome small berries and grow upon bushes about
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 31
ten feet high. Captain Clarke came to us and had killed two elk and a fawn, we passed a creek called While-stone Creek ; landed and remained here all night to jirk our meat.
Saturday 25. Two of our men last night caught nine catfish, that would together weigh three hundred pounds. The larnje catfish are caught in the Missouri with hook and line. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke went to see a hill on the north side of the river where the natives will not, or pretend that they will not venture to go, and say that a small people live there, whom they are afraid of. At eleven o'clock, the gentlemen not having returned, we set sail with a gentle breeze from the S. E. passed black bluffs on the south side, and continued on nine miles and encamped. Two of our hunters came in who had killed a large elk. Captains Lewis and Clarke did not return this evening.
Sunrlay 26. Some of the men went out to dress and bring in the elk. About ten o'clock Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with a party accompanying them came to camp; but had not been able to discover any of those small people. The hill is in a handsome prairie: and the party saw a great many buffalo near it. About eleven we renewed our voyage and passed some timber land on the south side ; and black and white bluffs on the same side, we encamped on the north side opposite a creek called Pettit-Ark, or Little-bow.
Monday 27. Got under way at sunrise, and passed white bluffs on the south side. At two we stopped for dinner, and an Indian of the Mahas nation, who lives with the Sioux came to us here, at the mouth of the Sacque River; and while we remained here two more came in. A Sergeant with our old Frenchman and another man went with two of the Indians to their camps, and the other went with us in the boat. We encamped on a sand beach on the north side.
Tuesday 28. We set forward early. The day was pleasant, and a fair wind from S. E. At eight we halted for breakfast, when our young Indian left us to go to his camp at a handsome prairie, gently rising from the river
33 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
on the north sido; a small distance above which aro beautiful groves of Cotton wood on both sides of the river. About twelve one of the j)oriogues run against a snag which broke a hole in it. We then crossed lo the south side 10 mend the periogue, and to wait to receive the Indians we expected ; and landed a little below some high bluffs. Our camp is in a wide bottom, in which arc largo elm and oak trees.
Wednesday 29. At eight o'clock last night a storm of wind and rain came on from the north west, and the rain continued the greater part of the night. The morning was cloudy with some thunder. We are generally well supplied with Catfish, the best I have ever seen. Some large ones were taken last night. In the afternoon, the men who had gone to the Indian camp returned, and brought with them sixty Indians of the Sioux nation. They encamped for the evening upon the opposite shore, and some corn and tobacco were sent over to them. The sergeant who had gone to their camp informed me that their lodges, forty in number, are about nine miles from the Missouri on the Sacque River. They are made of dressed buffalo and elk skins, painted red and white, and are very handsome. He said the women are homely and mostly old; but the young men likely and active. They killed a dog as a token of friendship. One of our men killed a deer.
Thursday 30. A foggy morning, and heavy dew. At nine o'clock the Indians came *over the river. Four of them, who were musicians, went backwards and for- wards, through and round our camp, singing and making a noise. After that ceremony was over they all sat in council. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke made five of them chiefs, and gave them some small presents. At dark Captain Lewis gave them a grained deer skin to stretch over a half keg for a drum. When that was ready they all assembled round some fires made for the purpose : two of them beat on the drum, and some of the rest had little bags of undressed skins dried, with beads or small pebbles in them, with which they made a noise. These arc their instruments of music. Ten or twelve
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 33
acted as musicians, while twenty or thirty young men and boys engaged in the dance; which was continued during the night. No Squaws made their appearance among this party.
Friday 31. A clear morning. The Indians remained with us all day, and got our old Frenchman to stay and go with their chief to the city of Washington. Some of them had round their necks, strings of the white bear's claws, some of the claws three inches long.
CHAPTER III.
Saturday Sept. 1, 1804. We renewed our voyage early; passed high bluffs on the south side, and high prairie land on the north ; on this side the hills come close to the river; and are so near on both sides, as not to be more than two miles from each other. Durincf last night we had hard wind and some rain, which continues to fall occasionally durino- the dav. About one o'clock we passed a rich prairie on the south side, and encamped on the north side, at the lower end of an island.
Sunday 2. At one o'clock last night we had hard thunder, lightning and rain, which continued about two hours. We set out early in the morning, along the north side of the island: there is handsome prairie land on the south. Three of our men went on the island to hunt. When we landed for breakfast, we heard several guns fired on the island, and saw six elk swimming across the river about a mile above where we had halted. Two of our men went up and killed one of them ; those on the island killed three. About twelve, the wind blew so hard down the river, that we could not proceed, and we land- ed on the north side, where there is an extensive prairie. It was cloudy and rained till four, when it cleared up. We remained here for the night and dried our meat. On the bank opposite our camp is an ancient fortification
3
31 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
or breastwork similar to those wliich have been occasion- ally discovered on the western waters. The two ends run at right angles to the river, and the outside, which is twenty-five hundred yards in length, parallel to it: there is no breastwork thrown up next to the river, the bank as is supposed, serving as a sufficient defence on that side.*
Monday 3. We set out early, and had a clear day; passed yellow bluffs on the north side, and a small cr;jtk, called Plum Creek. Here the river turns at right angles to the left, till it reaches the hills on the south side, then winds gradually to the right. There is no timber in this part of the country; but continued prairie on boih sides of the river. A person by going on one of the hills may have a view as far as the eye can reach without any obstruction or intervening object; and enjoy the most delightful prospects. During this day's voyage we found the hills on the opposite sides of the river generally not more than two miles apart, and the river meandering through them in various directions. We encamped on the south side.
Tuesday 4. We proceeded on our voyage, passed a creek on the south side about thirty yards wide, called Paint Creek; and high yellow bluifl^ on the same side.
* The description of this Breastwork corresponds exactly with the accounts given of numerous ancient fortilications discovered in the Western Country, which are known and represented to be generally of an oblong form, situated on strong and well chosen ground, an.'i contiguous to water. These works from the examina- tions which have been made, are supposed to have been erected more than one thousand years ago; or seven hundred before the discovery of America by Columbus. They appear to have existed about the same period, throughout all, or the greater part of that vast tract of Country bounded by the Alleghany Mountains on the East, and the Rocky Mountains on the West, and including the most favonrable latitudes of North America. Terhaps some have been found East of the Alleghany Mountains. Have numerous ancient nations, more civilized and disposed to labor than any of the modern Indian tribes, inhabited this country? And have these fortiiications been their liumble substitutes for the walled and fortified cities of the old world in remote ages? Or, has this been the Roman Empire of the New World? yVnd has it b.'en destroyed by other hordes of barbarians, as tierce and cruel as those who destroyed that of the old.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 35
About a mile and a half further we passed another creek on the same side 50 yards wide called White-paint Creek; and yellow bluffs on the north side. About four miles higher up, we passed a river, on the south side, 152 yards wide, called Rapidwater River : Up this river the Poncas nation of Indians lived not long since. We encamped on the south side among some cedar trees.
Wednesday 5. We set sail early this morning with a fair wind, and had a clear day. We passed a long island covered with timber, and three men went to hunt on it. On the north side are yellow bluffs, out of which issue several beautiful springs. Opposite the head of the island, on the south side, flows in a river, called Pania River; and about three miles higher up, on the north side, a creek, called Goat Creek. On the hills above this creek, we saw some goats or antelopes, which the French call cabres. About four we encamped on an island, where we made and put in a new mast. The three men, who went to hunt on long island killed a deer and an elk ; and two more went out from camp and killed another deer and an elk, both young.
Thursday 6. We set out early and had a cloudy morning: passed a handsome bottom prairie on the north side ; at the upper end of which is a grove of cotton wood, and a long range of dark coloured bluffs on the south side. About 9 o'clock it began to rain and we had strong wind ahead. There are a great number of sand bars, and we had much difficulty in getting along. We en- camped on the north side, and one of our men killed two deer.
Friday 7. W'e set sail early, and had a clear day: passed high prairie land on both sides ; but there is some cotton wood on the low points in the bottoms. On the south side we found a scaffold of meat neatly dried. This had been left by one of our men, who had gone out on the 26th of last month to hunt the horses, and suppo- sing we had got a distance ahead, proceeded up the river several days journey, before he discovered his error. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with some of the men went to view a round knob of a hill in a prairie, and on
36 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
their return killed a prairie dog, in size about that of the smallest species of domestic dogs.
Having understood that the village of those small dogs was at a short distance from our camp, Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with all the party, except the guard, went to it and took with them all the kettles and other vessels for holding water; in order to drive the animals out of their holes by pouring in water; but though they worked at the business till night they only caught one of them.
Saturday 8. We proceeded early on our voyage, and had a clear day and a fair wind from the S. E. Passed the bed of a creek without water. At 9 o'clock 1 went out with one of our men, who had killed a buffalo and left his hat to keep off the vermin and beasts of prey; but when we came to the place, we found the wolves had devoured the carcass and carried off the hat. Here we found a white wolf dead supposed to have been killed in a contest for the buffalo. We passed high bluffs on the south side and a burnt prairie on the north. We encamped on an island covered with timber; and havinij a number of buffalo on it. Captain Lewis who had been out with some of the men hunting, informed us he had passed a trading house built in 1796. This day we killed two buffalo, a large and a small elk, a deer and two beaver.
Sunday 9. We set out early, and passed two small creeks on the north side, high bluffs on the south, and at 1 o'clock landed for dinner at a small creek on the south side. One of our hunters brought in a deer and two fawns. This day we saw several gangs or herds, of buffalo on the sides of the hills: One of our hunters killed one, and Captain Clarke's black servant killed two. We encamped at sunset on the south side.
Monday 10. We had a foggy morning, but moved on early ; passed high blufis on the north side, and saw some timber in the bottom on the south side. At 12 o'clock we came to black sulphur bluffs on the south side. On the top of these bluffs we found the skeleton or back bones of a fish, 45 feet long, and petrified: part of these bones were sent to the City of Washington. One of our sergeants discovered a large salt spring about a milo and a half from the river. A hunter went up the
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 37
bank and killed an elk. We left a periogue for the men who were dressing the elk, and proceeded up the north side of the river two miles, when we were obliged to return on account of sand bars, and to take the south side. Here we saw eight elk swimming the river, and had seen a great many buffalo during the day. We encamped on an island and killed one buffalo.
Tuesday 11. We set sail before day light with a fair wind ; passed an island covered with timber, and high hills and prairie on both sides of the river, a^t 1 o'clock it began to rain. We saw some person coming down the river on horseback, when we came to land and found it was the man who had proceeded us with the horses. Ho had left one of the horses that had failed. We now had only one horse left. This man had been absent sixteen days, and his bullets being expended, he subsisted twelve days almost wholly on grapes. The hills here come close to the river on both sides. One of the men went by land with the horse, and we continued our voyage, until night, though it rained very hard; and encamped on the south side. Captain Clarke with two or three of the men who had gone out to hunt, killed two elk, four deer and one porcupine.
Wednesday 12. We set out as usual and had a cloudy day; passed a long range of black bluffs on the south side, and an island covered with timber, which is all the timber that can be seen from this place. The country round is all hills and prairie. Captain Clarke, myself and another went out to hunt, and did not return until after dark. The boat had much difficulty in passing on account of the sand bars and strong current, and did not make to day more than four miles.
Thursday 13. Four beaver were taken last night. We set sail early ; the morning was cloudy with some rain and wind ahead ; passed a creek and a long range of bluffs on the south side. Some of our men went out to hunt ; but did not return this evening. We encamped on the north side.
Friday 14. We proceeded as yesterday, and with the same kind of weather. Had considerable difficulty in getting along on account of the shallowness of the river;
38 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
all hands in the water drafjging the boat. At eight we halted for breakfast, and the men who went to hunt yesterday came in, and had only killed a porcupine. Three beaver were caught last night. The musketoes are as troublesome as they have been any time in sum- mer. We passed black bluffs on the south side, and an island with limber on it. Passed a creek on the same side, and encamped on the south. The man who had gone by land with the horse came to us here; had killed a hare. Captain Clarke killed a goat or antelope.
Saturday 15. A cloudy morning. We continued our voyage early, and passed a creek on the south side and black bluffs on the north. Passed AVhite Eiver on the south side; one of the men and myself went up it to examine the country, and encamped about twelve miles from the mouth, where it is 150 yards broad. We found good bottom on this creek ; but timber scarce, and none upon the hills. The current and the colour of the water are much like those of the Missouri.
Sunday 16. We set out for the boat across the hills, on the tops of which are level plains with a great number of goats and buffalo on them. Came to the head waters of a creek, and kept down it a S. E. course, and on our way killed 3 deer. We proceeded on to its mouth, which I computed to be 14 miles from that of the White River. Having found the boat had passed, we proceeded up the river, and came to a handsome bottom, where our people had encamped to dry the provisions and stores. In our absence the men had killed some deer and two buffalo.
Monday 17. As the weather was fair, we remained here during the day. Captain Lewis and some men went out to hunt, and killed thirteen common, and two black- tailed deer; three buffalo and a goat. The wild goat in this country differ from the common tame goat, and is supposed to be the real antelope. The black-tailed, or mule deer have much larger ears than the common deer and tails almost without hair, except at the end, where there is a bunch of black hair. There is another species of deer in this country with small horns and long tails. The tail of one which we killed was 18 inches long.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 39
One of our men caught a beaver, and killed a prairie wolf. These are a small species of wolves, someihing larger than a fox, with long tails and short ears.
Tuesday 18. We continued our voyage; the day was clear and pleasant: passed some timber land on the south side, and hills and prairies on the north; also an island and a great number of sand bars. Yesterday Captain Lewis while hunting, killed a bird not common in the states: it is like a Magpie and is a bird of prey. This day we killed eleven deer and a wolf, and halted, and encamped on the south side of the river in order to jirk our meat.
Wednesday 19. We set out early, and had a clear day passed large bottoms on both sides of the river covered with timber. We saw some buffalo swimming the river and killed two of them. There is an island In^re, oppo- site which a river flows in on the north side. This river is formed of three, which unite their waters just above its mouth; and immediately above the confluence is a cross- ing place, called the Sioux crossing place of the three rivers. At the upper end, a creek, called Elm Creek, comes in on the south side, and two miles above another creek called W^ash Creek, falls in on the same side. About two miles further we passed another creek called Night Creek, where we encamped on the south side. Three black tailed deer were killed this day.
Thursday 20. We renewed our voyage at an early hour, and had a clear day and fair wind. Passed hand- some rising prairies on the north side, and bottoms covered with timber on the south side. Two of the men with the horse went across the neck of the Long, or Grand bend, which we were obliged to go around with the boat, a dis- tance of thirty miles. At 1 o'clock we stopped for din- ner, and Captain Lewis and one of the men went to hunt, Captain Clarke had gone out in the morning. At 2 o'clock we proceeded again on our voyage, and pass- ed a long chain of bluffs on the north side, of a dark colour. From these and others of the same kind, the Missouri gets its muddy colour. The earth of which they are composed, dissolves like sugar; every rain
40
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 41
washes down great quaniiiics of it, and the rapidity of the stream keeps it mixing and afloat in the water, until it reaches the mouth of the Mississippi. We encamped at 7 o'clock on a sand beach on the north side. Here Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and the other man joined us. They had killed two goats and two deer. At one o'clock at night, the bank where we were stationed began to fall so much, that we were obliged to rouse all hands, and go on a mile and cross the river before we could again encamp.
I^riday 21. We set out early, the day was clear, and we proceeded on four miles along bluffs on the south side, when we came to the termination of the Grand Bend, about a mile from the place of our encampment on the 19th. We again went on, having black blulfs on the south, and a handsome bottom on the north side; and bevond these a cedar bottom on the south side, and bluffs on the north; passed a creek on the south side, called Tyler's Creek; and encamped on the north side.
Saturday 22. We embarked early in a foggy morning,
saw some timber on the south side, and high plains on
the north. About 3 o'clock we passed Cedar Island, one
of the Three-Sisters, where Mr. Lucelle had built a fort
■ of cedar. The space picketed in is about ^b or 70 feet
square, with centry boxes in two of the angles. The
pickets are thirteen and a half feet above ground. In this
square he built a house 45^ by 32^ feet, and divided it
into four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in,
one to be used as a common hall, and the other for a
family house. Here the two men came to us with the
horse. They had killed a white wolf and some deer.
W^e proceeded on, passed a creek, and islands of the
Three-Sisters; and an old Indian camp, where we found
some of their dog-poles, w^hich answ^er for setting poles.
The reason they are called dog-poles, is because the
Indians fasten their dogs to them, and make them draw
them from one camp to another loaded with skins and
other articles.* We encamped on the north side.
*Mr. Makenz'e speaking of the Knisteueaur, a numerous nation of Indians spread over a vast extent of country extending south westerly from the coast of Labrador, north of the St.
42 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Siintlay 23. We went on early, and had a clear morniiif;; passed some limber on the north side, and iiigh land on the south; also a creek on the north side called Smoke Creek; passed Elk Island, a liandsome bot- tom on the north side covered with timber and barren hills on the soutli. At six in the evening we saw four Indians on the south side and encamped on the north. Three of the Indians swam over to us : they belonged to the Sioux, and enformed us that there were more of their nation not far distant. We sent them over the river again. One of our men killed an antelope.
Monday 24. We set sail early with fair weather, and passed a small creek on the south side. About 3 o'clock the man who had gone by land with the horse came to us, and informed us that he had gone that morning on an island to kill elk, and that while he was there the In- dians had stolen the horse. He had killed three elk, and the periogues remained behind to bring on the meat. We saw five Indians on the bank, but we could not understand each other. V/e cast anchor to wait for the periogues; one of which having come up, we went on to the mouth of the Tinton or Teeton River, where we an- chored about 100 yards from the shore on the south side. The guard and cooks only landed, the rest slept in the boat. The five Indians remained with us all night. We had a Frenchmen aboard a periogue, who understood and could speak a Uttle of the Sioux language. The Indians gave us to understand the chiefs would come to-morrow, and that if their young men had taken the horse, they would have him given up. These In- dians are a band of Sioux, called the Tinton or Teeton Band.
Tuesday 25. We staved here to wait for the Indians,
who were expected to arrive at 10 o clock, they came,
about 60 in number. The commanding officers made
three of them chiefs, and gave them some presents.
Laurence and its Lakes and the Lake Winnipie, east of Elk River, south of the lake of the Hills, and west, south and east of "James's Bay and the southern Part of Hudson's Bay, says, "In the winter when the waters are frozen, they make their journics, which are never of any great lenjjth, with sledges drawn hy dogs."
General Hisionj of the Fur Trade.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 43
Five of thorn cnmo on board and remained three hours. Captain Chirke and some of our men in a periogue went ashore with them; but tlie Indians (Ud not seem disposed to permit tlieir return. They said they were poor and wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clarke insisted on coming to the boat; but they refused to let Iiim, and said thev had soldiers as well as he had. He told them that his soldiers were good, and that he had more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty such nations in one day. After this they did not threat- en any more, and said they only wanted us to stop at their lodge, that the women and children might see the boat. Four of them came aboard, when we proceeded on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in the middle of the river. The Indians remained with us all night.
Wednesday 26. We set out early, and proceeded on four miles. The bank of the river on the south side was covered all the way with Indians; and at 10 o'clock we met the whole band, and anchored about 100 vards from the shore. Captain Lewis, the chiefs, and some men went on shore, the Indians were peaceable and kind. After some time Captain Lewis returned on board, and Captain Clarke went on shore. When the Indians saw him coming they met him with a butfalo robe, spread it out and made him get into it, and then eight of them car- ried him to the council house. About an hour after some of them came for Captain Lewis, and he landed; and eight of them carried him to the council house in the same manner, they had carried Captain Clarke. They killed several dogs for our people to feast on, and spent the greater part of the day in eating and smoking. At night the women assembled, and danced till 11 o'clock: then the officers came on board with two chiefs, who continued with us until the morning.
Thursday 27. W^e remained here all day. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the men went over to the Indian camp. Their Lodges are about eighty in number, and contain about ten persons each, the greater part women and children. The women were employed in
44 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
dressing bufTalo skins, for clotliing for themselves and for covering ihoir lodges. They are the most friend- ly people 1 ever saw; but will pilfer if they have an opportunity. They are also very dirty: the water they make use of, is carried in the paunches of the animals they kill, just as they are emptied, without being cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various kinds; I had never seen any thing like some of these dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how they were made.
About fifteen days ago they had a battle with the Mahas, of whom they killed seventy five men, and took twenty five women prisoners, whom they have now with them. They promised to Captain Lewis, that they would send the prisoners back and make peace.
About 3 o'clock we went aboard the boat accompanied with the old chief and his little son. In the evening Captain Clarke and some of the men went over, and the Indians made ])reparations for a dance. At dark it commenced. Captain Lewis, myself and some of our parly went up to see them perform. Their band of music, or orchestra, was composed of about twelve persons beating on a buffalo hide, and shaking small bags that made a rattling noise, They had a large fire in the center of their camp; on one side the women, about eighty in number, formed in a solid column round the fire, with sticks in their hands, and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed, tied on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the fire, rising and falling on both feet at once; keeping a continual noise, singing and yelling. In this man- ner they continued till 1 o'clock at night, when we returned to the boat with two of the chiefs. On coming aboard, the periogue run across the bow of the boat and broke the cable. All hands were roused to row the boat ashore; the chiefs called aloud, and a number of the warriors came to our assistance, but we did not need it; the circumstance, however, shewed their disposition to be of service. This unfortunate accident lost to us our anchor.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 45
Friday 28. This morning wo dragged the river all round where the boat lay, but could not find the anchor. At 9 o'clock we made preparations to sail; some of the chiefs were on board, and concluded to go some distance with us. When we went to shove off, some of the the Indians took hold of the rope and would not let it go. This conduct had like to be atten- ded with bad consequences, as Captain Lewis was near giving orders to cut the rope and to fire on them. The chiefs, however, went out and talked with them: they said they wanted a carrot of tobacco, and that if we gave that we might go. The tobacco was given them, and we went off under a gentle breeze of wind. We passed high land on the north side, and bottom on the south. We proceeded four miles, and then saw an Indian following us along the beach, when Captain Lewis, went in a periogue and brought him on board. He informed us that three hundred more Indians had come to their camp, and desired we should stop and talk with them. We did not then stop, but proceeded on, and ho remained on board. We passed a fine bottom covered with timber on the north side, and bare hills on the south. We made two large stones serve the purpose of an anchor, and at sunset anchored for the night, near a small sand-bar in the middle of the river.
While I was at the Indian camp yesterday they yoked a dog to a kind of car, which thev have to haul their baggage from one camp to another; the nation having no settled place or village, but are always moving about.* The dogs are not large, much resemble a woli', and will haul about seventy pounds each.
* It appears that these people, (in some respects resembling the wandering Arabs) are an unsettled, ferocious, blood-thirsty race, and have been great destroyers of the Algonquin nation, who inhabit the country about lake Superior. Mr. M'Kenzie states the following circumstance, "Within three miles of tha last portage" (a place near lake Superior) "is a remarkable rock,
46 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
CHAPTER IV.
Saturday 29. "VVc scl sail early and had fair wcaihor; passed a handsome hollom covered willi limber on the north side, and bluffs on the south. We saw several Indians on the south side walking up the shore; spoke to them and found they were some of those we left yesterday. They requested us to give them a carrot of tobacco for the chiefs of the other band to smoke. We sent them two carrots to a sand bar, where they could get it; but told them we should not go on shore again, until we came to the nation of the Aricaris, commonly called Rickarees, Rickrees. or Rees. The Missouri is very shallow at this time and full of sand bars. We passed an old village on the south side, where the Rickarecs lived five years ago, and raised corn in the bottom, around the village. We encamped on a sand beach on the south side of the river.
Sunday 30. We set out early, in a cloudy morning; passed black bluffs on the south side, and handsome bot- tom prairie on the north; saw an Indian on the shore, and the chief we had on board spoke to him. He said he wished to come on board and go with us to the Rees; but we did not take him. The wind was fair and we made nine miles by 10 o'clock. We saw a great number of Indians coming down to the river on the south side. We stopt for breakfast about 200 yards from the shore; then proceeded about a mile; near to the place where the Indians were encamped on the
with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which liang over the water. Info one of its horizontal chasms a jrreat nnmber of arrows have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the Nadowasis or Sieux, wlio had done much nii»chi('f in this country, and left these weapons as a warning to the Chcbois or natives, that, notwithstanding its lakes, rivers and rocks, it was not inaccessible to their enemies."
General History of the Fur Trade.
48 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
soutli side; wc balled and spoke to ihcm and then went on under a line brc^eze of wind.
A short time before night, the waves ran very high and the boat rocked a great deal, which so ahirmed our old chief, that he would not go any further. We encamped on the north side.
Monday October 1, 1804. We early continued our voyage, the morning was cloudy but the wind fair and we sailed rapidly. At nine we passed the River Dc Chien, or Dog River; a large river that comes in on the south side. A short distance above this river, the sand bars are so numerous, that we had great difficulty to get along, and encamped on one in the middle of tlie river. There were some French traders on the other bank of the river, and one of them came over and remained with us all nio;ht.
Tuesday 2. We set sail before daylight. A French- man came on board, who could speak English. He mentioned it, as his opinion, that we should see no more Indians, until we should arrive at the nation of Rees. We passed a range of black bluffs on the north side and a large bottom on the south, where there was some tim- ber on the bank of the river. About 2 o'clock we discovered some Indians on the hills on the nortli side, and one of them came down to the bank and fired a gun; the object or intention we did not well understand, but were ready to meet an attack. We passed black bluffs on the south side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to the Indian, who said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole Band, and that there were twenty lodojes of them. We told him we had seen two of their chiefs, and given them a flag and medal. W^e passed a creek on the south side, and encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river.
Wednesday 3. The morning was cloudy, and some rain fell. The land is high on both sides of the river. About 12 o'clock the wind began to blow so hard down the stream that we were unable to proceed, and we halt(;d under some high bluffs, where driftwood was plenty. At three we continued our voyage; passed a long rango
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 49
of dark coloured bluffs on the south side and bottom, with some timber, on the north. We encamped on the south side.
Thursday 4. We set out early; but were obliged to return to the place where we halted yesterday at twelve and to take the other side of the river; the water was so shallow and sand bars so numerous. At 9 o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see us, when we stopped for breakfast. We informed him that we were not traders, that wo had seen his chief and told him all we had to say. We proceeded on, passed a creek on the south side, called Teel Creek, and encamped on the upper part of an island.
Friday 5. This morning there was a white frost; the day clear and pleasant. About eleven we saw some goats swimming the river, when one of our hunters ran up the shore and killed four of them, and we took them into the boat and periogues as they floated down. We passed a creek on the north side, called Hidden Creek, and hi£[h black blutls on the south side.* Some of our hunters having gone on an island to hunt, and scared a ])rairie wolf in the river, which we killed. We passed a creek on the south side called White Goat Creek and encamped on the north side.
Saturday 6. We continued our vovage early, and had a clear day ; passed blutfs on the south side, and a bottom covered with timber on the north. About eleven we passed a handsome bottom, where a band of the Rees lived last winter. They had left a number of round huts covered with earth, some of their water craft made of buffalo hides, and some garden truck, such as squashes. We proceeded on and passed a small creek on the south side ; a handsome bottom on the north; and encamped on a sand beach on the north side.
Sunday 7. We set forward early, and had a clear
*To prevent mistakes, owing' to the very winding course of the river, Starbord side and Larboard side were made use of in the original journal, instead of north side and south side; during the remainder of the voyage up the Missouri; but have been changed to north side and south side, as being better under- stood, and sufficiently representing the general course of the river. 4
50 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
day: passed a willow bottom on the south side, and a creek on the north. At the beginning of some limber land we passed a small river on the south side, called Cer-wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is not so sandy as the Missouri, and the water is clear with a deep chan- nel. At the mouth of this river is a wintering camp of the Rickarees of 60 lodges. We saw two Sioux Indians on the north side, gave them some meat and proceeded on. We passed an island, on which Captain Clarke and one of the men went to hunt and killed a deer and prarow. We encamped on the north side opposite the head of the island.
I\Ionday 8. The morning was pleasant, and we set out early: passed highland on the south side, and bottom on the north. The river here is very shallow and full of sand bars. W^e passed a run on the south side called Slate Run. Two of our hunters went out to some timber land on the north side to look for game. At twelve we came to a river on the south side, 120 yards wide, called the Marapa, where we halted for dinner. The hunters came up. but had killed nothirg. We passed a long range of hills on the north side; about two miles from the Marapa we j)asscd a creek 25 yards wide; and about four miles further came to an island, where one band of the Rickarees live, and encamped at the upper end.
Tuesday 9. The day was stormy, and we remained * here preparing to hold a Council with the nation. Capt. Lewis with some of the men v.ent down to their lodges, and were used very kindly and friendly. Two Friench- men live with them, one to trade, and the other to inter- pret.
Wednesday 10. This day I went with some of the men to the lodges, about GO in number. The following is a description of the form of these lodges, and the man- ner of building them.
In a circle of a size suited to the dimension, of the intended lodge, they set up IG forked posts five or six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another. Against those poles they lean other poles, slanting from the ground, and extending about four inches above the
52 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
cross poles: these are to receive the ends of the upper ])olcs, tliat support the roof. They next set up four large forks, fifteen feet high, and about ten feet apart, in tlie middle of the area, and poles or beams between these. The roof poles are then laid on extending from the lower poles across the beams which rest on the mid- dle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney. The whole is then covered with willow branches, except the chimney and a hole to pass through. On the willow branches they lay grass and lastly clay. At the hole below, they build a pen about four feet wide, and projecting ten feet from the hut, and banc: a buffalo skin at the entrance of the hut for a door. This labor like every other kind is chiefly per- formed by the squaws. They raise corn, beans and tobacco. Their tobacco is different from any 1 had before seen: it answers for smoking, but not for chewing. On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat, with two squaws in a buffalo skin stretched on a frame made of boughs, wove together like a crate or basket for that purpose. Ca])tain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a Council with the Indians, and gave them some presents. Thursday 11. A clear day. We waited for an answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they came, and brought some corn, beans and squashes, which they presented to us. The chief said he was glad to see us, and wished our commanding officers would speak a good word for them to the JMandans; for they wanted to be at j)eace with them. These are the best looking Indians 1 liave ever seen. At 1 o'clock P. M. we proceeded on our voyage ; passed a creek on the south side 20 yards wide, and a handsome bottom covered with timber. Hav- ing made about four miles, we came to the second Village of the Rickarees, situated in a prairie on the south side. They had the American flag hoisted which Captain Lewis gave them yesterday. Their lodges are similar to those in the first Village, and the same, or perhaps more in number. They are the most cleanly Indians I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the most friendly and industrious. We anchored about 60
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 53
yards from shore, and sent a perioguc over ilic river tor wood. We all slept on board exeepi the cooks, who went on shore to prepare provisions for ilie next day.
Friday 12. We had a pleasant morning, and remained liere the forenoon to hear the chief of this village speak. Last night the Indians stole an ax from our cook, which of course in some degree diminished our contidence, and lessened the amicable character we had conceived of them. At 9 o'clock, Captain Lewis, Caj)iain Clarke and myself went to the second Village, and talked with its chief: then to the third Villagf^ about half a mile beyond a small creek, and talked with the chief of that Village; and eot some corn and beans from them. The third Village is nearly of the same size of the second, and has in it a great numb(^r of handsome and smart women and children: the men are mostly out hunting. About twelve we left the village, and proceeded on our voyage. One of the natives agreed to go with us as far as the Mandans. We encamped on the north side. After dark we heard some person hallooing on the opposite shore; and a pcriogue went over and brought an Indian and two squaws, who remained with us all night.
Saturday 13. We proceeded on early and had a cloudy day; passed Pond River on the north side, about 50 yards wide. One of the sc^uaws went on with us. At twelve it rained some, and we halted to hold a court martial. At two continued our voyage, and did not get landing until after dark, the bank was so high and steep on one side, and the water so shallow on the other. We encamped on the north side.
Sunday 14. We had a cloudy morning and some rain. We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a bottom covered with timber on the south side, and low ground covered with willows on the north ; passed a creek and black bluffs on the south side, and encamped on the north. It rained slowly during the whole day.
Monday 15. It rained all last night, and we set out early in a cloudy morning. At seven we saw a hunting party of the Rickerees, on their way down to the vill- ages. They had twelve buffalo skin canoes or boats
54 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
ladcned with moat and skins; besides some horses that were going down the l)ank by land. They gave us a part of their meat. The party consisted of men, women and children. At eight we went on again; ])assed a fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north side, and naked hills on the south. About ten, we saw anoth- er party of hunters, who asked us to cat, and gave us some meat. One of these requested to speak with our young squaw, who for some time hid herself, but at last came out and spoke with him. She then went on shore and talked with him, and gave him a pair of ear-rings and drops for leave to come with us ; and when the horn blew for all hands to come on board, she left them and came to the boat. We passed a creek on the south side, and cncampod at dusk on the north; where there was a party of Indians, about thirty in number. Our squaw remained with this i)arty. They gave us some meat, and appeared very glad to see us.
Tuesday 16. We early renewed our voyage; and had a clear morning, passed a creek on the south side. The timber is more plenty than it has been for a con- siderable distance down the river. The sand bars, gave us a great deal of trouble, and much retarded our pro- gress. In the evening a short lime before we encamped, we met with another hunting party of the Rickarees. They had a flock of goats, or antelopes, in the river, and killed upwards of forty of them. Captain Lewis, and one of our hunters went out and killed three of the same flock. We encamped on the south side. This day we saw more than a hundred goats.
Wednesday 17. We renewed our voyage early, and had a clear morning. Last night eight of the Indians came over to see us, brought us some meat and remained all night. Captain Lewis, gave them some presents this morning. At half past ten, the wind blew so hard down the river that we were obliged to halt. At four we proceeded on with the assistance of the tow line, though the wind still continued against us, and having made about two miles, encamped on the south side. Several hunters went out this day and killed six deer: one of them did not join us at night.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 55
Thursday 18. We had a clear pleasant morning with some frost. We set sail early, and a hunter went up each shore. Having proceeded two miles, we met a couple of Frenchmen in a canoe, who had been up at the Mandan nation hunting, and met with a party of that nation, who robbed them of their arms, ammunition and some fur, wich they had; and therefore they had to return down the river; but meeting us, went back in hopes of recovering their property. We passed a small river, on the south side called Cannon-ball River. Several hunters wont out here. We passed a creek on the north side, called Fish Creek, on which I killed a deer. At night we encamped on the south side, and all the hunters came in, having killed six deer, four goats and a pelican.
Friday 19. Early this morning we renewed our voyage, having a clear day and fair wind: passed a creek on the south side. While out hunting yesterday I saw about 300 goats and some buffalo. Deer are not so plenty here as lower down the river, but elk, buffalo, and goats, are very numerous. Four hunters went out to day, and in tlie evening returned with seven deer and three elk. We encamped on tjie north side.
Saturday 20. We were early under way this morn- ing, which was very pleasant. Two hunters went out and at breakfast time brought a deer to the boat ; when four more went out. We passed a creek on the north side, about 20 yards wide; bottom covered with timber on both sides, and a small river on the south side op- posite the lower point of an island. At the upper end we passed bluffs on the south side, and bottom on the north. We this day, saw a number of buffalo and goats on the sides of the hills. We encamped on the south side, and our hunters came in having, killed 14 deer, a goat and a wolf; and one of them wounded a large white bear.
Sunday 21. We had a disagreeable night of sleet and hail. It snowed during the forenoon, but we pro- ceeded early on our voyage, passed bottom on the south side, and hills on the north. We also passed a small
56 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
river on ihc south side called Chischect River; and encamped on the south side. Two of the hunters, who had gone out in the morning came in, and had killed a buffalo and an otter.
Monday 22. Some snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy and cold. We embarked early and went on. At nine we saw 11 Indians of the Sioux nation coming down from the Mandans, who, notwithstanding the coldness of the weather, had not an article of clo- thing except their breech-clouts. At 1 o'clock the day became clear and pleasant, and we encamped at night on the south side.
Tuesday 23. Some snow fell last night, and the morning was cloudy. At eight, it began to snow, and continued snowing to eleven, when it ceased. We pass- ed the place where the Frenchmen had been robbed, but no Indians could be seen. The hills here are further from the river, than they are for some distance down it; and there are fme large bottoms on both sides covered w^ith cotton wood. We encamj)ed on the south side where we found a great quntity of rabbit berries. Three hunters were out to day, but killed nothing.
CHAPTER V.
Wednesday 24. W^e set out early in a cloudy morn- ing. At nine, it began to rain and continued to rain for an hour. At twelve, we came to a hunting party of the Mandan nation of Indians, and remained with them until two and then continued our voyage. There were three lodges of these Indians on an island, which has been cut off the Grand Bend, a short distance below the Mandan village. We encamped on the north side. Five of the Indians came to us, and our Indian went over with them, and returned in the morning.
Thursday 25. The morning was pleasant, and we
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 57
set sail early with a fair wind. Passed a bcauiiful bot- tom on the 'south side, and hills on the north. A great many of the natives, some on horseback and some on foot appeared on the hills halooing and singing. At two, we stopped for dinner, and as we could not get our boat to shore on the north side, the water being shallow, our Indian was sent over to them. In the afternoon we passed a bottom covered with timber on the north side, and hills on the south, and encamped on ilic north side. Here our Indian returned accompanied by one of the Mandans.
Friday 26. ^V^c set out early, and had a clear morn- ing; passed a large willow bottom on the south, and high land on the north side. The Mandan Indian left us early in the morning. At ten, we came to a hunting party of the Mandans, consisting of men, women and children. There was an Irishman with them, who had come from the North West Company of traders. We remained here an hour, and then proceeded. A number of the Indians kept along the shore opposite the boat all day, on the south side, on which side we encamped. Some of them remained with us to twelve at night, and then returned to their village.*
Saturday 27. The morning was clear and pleasant and we set out early At half past seven, we arrived at the first village of the Mandans, and halted about two hours. This village contains 40 or 50 lodges, built in the manner of those of the Rickarees. These Indians have better complexions than most other Indians, and some of the children have fair hair. We passed a bluff on the south side, with a stratum of black resembling coal. There is a bottom on the north side, where the second Mandan village is situated. We went about a mile above it, and encamped in the same bottom, for the purpose of holding a council with the natives. This place is 1610 miles from the mouth of the river du Bois, where we first embarked to proceed on the expedition. There are about the same number of lodges, and people, in this village as in the first. These people do not bury
B8 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
ihoir (load, but j)l;ico ilio body on a scaffold, wrapped in a JMiffalo rob;;, wluTo it lies exposed.*
Sunday 28. Tbe day was clear, and we remained here; but could not sit in council, the wind blew so violent.
Monday 29. We had aijain a clear day, and some of the principal men came from each village of the Mandans, from the Watasoons, Sioux, and one from the Grossventers; and all sat in council together. At 1 1 o'clock, when the Council met, a shot was fired from our bow piece, and the commanding officers took the chiefs by the hand. Captain Lewis, through an in- terpreter, delivered a speech; gave a suit of clothes to each of the chiefs, and some articles for their villages. He also sent a suit to the chief of the Grossventers. At 3 o'clock another gun was lired at the breaking up of ths council, and they all appeared satisfied. Captain Lewis gave an iron mill to the Mandan nation to grind corn, with which they were highly pleased.
Tuesday 30. We remained here to know the answer of the Indians. The day was clear and pleasant. At ton. Captain Ljwis with a party of our people, and an Indian or two, went about six miles up the river to view an island, in order to ascertain whether or not it would suit for winter quarters. At five P. I\I. they returned and were of opinion that it was not an eligible place.
Wednesday 3L A pleasant morning. We remained here also to day, the Indians havmg given no answer. At twelve, Captain Clarke and some of the men went down to the village, and the chief gave 9 or 10 bushels of corn, and some buffalo robes.
Thursday Nov. 1, 1804. At 3 o'clock P. M. we returned down the riv(>r. to look for a ])lace where we could fix our winter quarters. At dark we had descend- ed 9 miles, and came to a bottom covered with cotton wood where we encamped.
Friday 2. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the men, went up to the first village of the Mandans, who
* Seo Makonzie's account of the funeral rites of the Knistcneux, iu his Gcueral History of the Fur Trade.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 59
gave US some corn. Captain Clarke and the rest of our parlv, having dropped half a mile lower down the river, began to clear a place for a camp and fort. We pitched our tents and laid the foundation of one line of huts.
Saturday 3. A clear day; we continued building, and six men went down the river in a periogue to hunt. They will perhaps have to go 30 or 40 miles before they come to good hunting ground. The following is the manner in which our huts and fort were built. The huts were in two rows, containing four rooms each, and joined at one end, forming an angle. When raised about seven feet high, a floor of })uncheons, or split plank were laid, and covered with grass and clay; which made a warm loft. The upper ])art projected a foot over and the roofs were made shed fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not inclosed by the huts we intend to picket. In the angle formed by the two rows of huts we^ built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores.
About the 16, the weather became very cold, and the ice beijan to run in the river. W^e sent a Frenchman down to enquire about the hunters and periogue. He and one of the hunters returned to the fort, having left the periogue and the rest about 30 miles below. The Frenchman was sent down again with a rope, and returned by land. On the 19, the hunters came up with the periogue loaded with the meat of about thirty deer, eleven elk, and some buffalo. In the cold weather we moved into the huts, though not finished. From the 20th to the 27ih we had fine pleasant weather, and on the evening of the latter, finished the roofs of our huts. These were made of puncheons, split out of cotton wood and then hewed. The cotton wood resembles the lom- bardy, poplar, and is a light soft wood. The largest trees are in thickness about 18 inches diameter. On the night of the 27th the snow fell seven inches deep, and the 28th was stormy
Thursday 29. This day was clear, but cold. W^e went to unrig the boat, and by an accident, one of the sergeants had his shoulder dislocated. The 30th the
60 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
weather coiuinued the same. Early in the morning of this (lav, wc saw an Indian on iho opposite side of the river, and brought him over. He informed us, iliat, a few days ago, eight of his nation were out hunting, and were attacked by a party of the Sioux tribe, who killed one and would two more; and also carried off their horses. Captain Clarke and 23 men immediately set out with an intention of pursuing the murderers. They went up to the first village of the I\Iandans, but their warriors did not seem disposed to turn out. They suggested the coldness of the weather; that the Sioux were too far gone to be overtaken; and put ofT the ex})edition to the spring of the year. Captain Clarke and his party returned the same evening to the fort. We have been daily visited by the Indians since we came here. Our fort is called Fort Mandan, and by observation is in latitude 47. 21. 32. 8.*
* The course of the Missouri, and distances of places on it, appear to be very erroneously laid down upon the maps of Louis- iana generally. On these the villages of the Mandans are placed in about 431 degrees of nortii latitude, and ll2i of west longitude from Greenwich. This would place them about 500 miles nearer the mouth of the Columbia on the Pacific Ocean, than the mouth of tht* Missouri: supposing the mouth of the Columbia to be about 124 degrees west of London. But the near- est practicable route from the Mandan villages, to the mouth of the Columbia, according to Captain Clarke's estimate, places them 335 mik-s nearer tiie mouth of the Missouri, than that of the Columbia; and by the route actually taken by the expedition to the mouth of the Columbia, they are 900 miles nearer the mouth of the Missouri.
By Captain Lewis's observations, these villages are in latitude 47. 2L 32. 8. And according to Mr. Makenzie, Mr. Thompson astronomer to the North West company, in the year 1798, deter- mined the nortii bend of the Missouri, to be in latitude 47. 32. north, and longitude 101. 25. west. Now this is probably near the longitude of the Mandan villages; for as it appears by the above statement, ;ind by other observations of Captain Lewis near the mouth of the Missouri, that the course of the river is, for a con- siderable distance, nearly due west, and afterwards nearly due north. The difference of longitude, and latitude, between the mouth of the Missouri and the point where Mr. Thompson took his observations, may be added together, in estimating the distance: and this will give about 8i degrees of latitude, and 9 degrees of longitude raakiug the whole iTi degrees, which from the very
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. Gl
Saturday December 1, 1804. The clay was pleasant, and we began to cut and carry pickets to complete our fort. One of the traders from the North West company came to the fort, and related that the Indians had been troublesome in his way through. An Indian came down from the first Mandan village, and told us that a great number of the Chien or Dog nation had arrived near the village.
Sunday 2. The day was pleasant, and the snow melted fast. A party of the Chien Indians with some of the Mandans came to the fort: they appeared civil and good natured.
The 3, 4, and 5, were moderate and we carried on the work; but the 6, was so cold and stormy, we could do nothing. In the night the river froze over, and in the morning was covered with solid ice an inch and a half thick.
Friday 7. A clear cold morning. At 9 o'clock, the Big white-head chief, of the first village of the Mandans, came to our garrison and told us that the buffalo were in the prairie coming into the bottom. Captain Lewis and eleven more of us, went out immediately, and saw the prairie covered with buffalo and the Indians on horseback killing them. They killed 30 or 40 and we killed 1 1 of them. They shoot them with bows and arrows, and have their horses so trained that they will advance very near and suddenly wheel and fly off in case the wounded buffalo attempt an attack.
Saturday 8. In our hunt of yesterday, two men had their feet frost-bitten. Captain Clarke and another party went out though the cold was extreme, to hunt the buf- falo; and killed nine, and a deer. One man got his hand frozen, another his foot; and some more got a little touch- ed. Two men encamped out to take care of the meat.
Sunday 9. Captain Lewis and twelve more of us,
meandering course of the Missouri, may be sufficient to include 1610 miles of it, the distance from the mouth to the villages. In the map of North America included in the Atlas accompanying Pinkerton's Geography, published in 1804, this part of the Mis- souri, appears pretty accurately laid down; but in the map of Louisiana, in the same set it is equally erroneous with any other.
wm^m
'<M
■i>]
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 63
went down to the bottom where the two men were taking care of the meat. We found some butlalo had come into the woods, and we killed ten of them and a deer. Havinji dressed them, we loaded four horses with meat and sent them with some of the party to the fort ; Capt. Lewis and the rest of us encamped out, and had toler- able lodirins with the assistance of the hides of iho buffalo we had killed.
Monday 10. After breakfasting on marrow bones; Captain Lewis and four of us set out for the fort. Four hunters and another man to keep camp remained out. On our return we met one of our men, who said that a party had gone down with the horses for more meat. This day was viery cold; an experiment was made with proof spirits, which in fifteen minutes froze into hard ice. In the evening two of our hunters came in with the horses, but had killed nothing. Five encamped out.
Tuesday IL Captain Lewis and Ca})iain Clarke thinking the weather too cold to hunt, sent men down to the camp to bring up the remainder of the meat, and orders for the hunters to return. The hunters came in at dark. They had killed four buffalo, and dressed two ef them. The cold was so severe they could do nothing with the other two.
Wednesday 12. We all remained at the garrison the weather being intensely cold. We made three small sleds to haul in the meat with.
Thursday 13. The weather this day, began to be more moderate. Two hunters went out and killed two buffalo. One came in, and he and some of the men went out and brought in the meat.
Friday 14. This day was more moderate, and light snow showers fell. Captain Clarke and fourteen men went out to hunt; and took the three sleds with them. In the evening five of them returned. Captain Clarke and the other nine encamped out, and killed two deer. The snow fell about three inches deep.
Saturday 15. A cloudy day. Some of the natives paid us a visit, and brought presents of meat to the com- manding officers. About 1 o'clock Captain Clarke and
Ct JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
his parlv returned, but liad killed nothing more. Tho bulllilo were gone from the river. Some slight snow showers fell during the day.
Sunday 16. A clear cold day. I went up with some of the men to the first and second villages of the Man- dans, and we were treated with much kindness. Three of the traders from the North West Company came to our fort, and brought a letter to our commanding officers. They remained with us all night. The object of the visits we received from the North West Company, was to ascertain our motives for visiting that country, and to gain information with respect to the change of govern- ment.*
I\Ionday 17. This was a cold clear day, and we all remained in the garrison. A sled was fitted up for one of the North West traders to return in. In the evening one of the natives came down and told us the buffalo were again come to the river.
Tuesday 10. A very cold day. Six of us went out to look for the buffalo; but could see nothing but some goats. At nine we returned and found that the men from the North West Company had set out on their return, notwithstanding the severity of the weather.
* The North West Company was first formed in the winter of 1783-4, by the merchants of Canada ingaged in tlie fur trade, uniting their interests. The concern was divided into sixteen shares, without any capital being deposited; each party furnishing his proportion of the articles necessary for carrying on tiie trade. After a severe struggle and rival competition with others engaged in the trade, in the year 1787 more partners were admitted, the shares extended to twenty, and the establishment, which was no more than an association of commercial men agreeing among them- selves to carry on the fur trade, founded on a more solid basis.
This and Hudson's Bay Company, have engrossed and carry on almost the whole trade in that extensive country, situated between Hudson's Bay, and the Rocky IMountains, and that high tract of country west of lake Superior, which separates the southern from the northern waters: and have factories, forts, and trading estab- lishments on the Winnipic, Assiniboin, Sturgeon, Saskatchiwine, Elk, and most of the other great lakes and rivers, which communi- cate with or discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay, and the North sea. It is said that some change has sinco taken place in the establishmcut of tlie North West Comp;iny.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 65
Wednesday 19. This was a more pleasant day, and we began to set up the pickets.
The 20, and 21, were quite warm and pleasant, and we advanced with our work.
Saturday 22. The weather continued clear, pleasant and warm. A great number of the natives came with corn, beans and moccasins to trade, for which they would take anything — old shirts, buttons, awls, knives and the like articles.
Sunday 23. The weather continued pleasant, and we proceeded in our operations in setting up the pickets.
Monday 24. Some snow fell this morning; about 10 it cleared up, and the weather became pleasant. This even- ing we finished our fortification. Flour, dried apples, * pepper and other articles were distributed in the different messes to enable them to celebrate Christmas in a proper and social manner.
Tuesday 25. The morning was ushered in by two dis- charges of a swivel, and a round of small arms by the whole corps. Captain Clarke then presented to each man a glass of brandy, and we hoisted the American flag in the garrison, and its first waving in fort Mandan was celebrated with another glass. The men then cleared out one of the rooms and commenced dancing. At 10 o'clock we had another glass of brandy, and at one a gun was fired as a signal for dinner. At half past two anoth- er gun was fired, as, a notice to assemble at the dance, which was continued in a jovial manner till eight at night; and without the presence of any females, except three squaws, wives of our interpreter, who took no other part than the amusement of looking oil. None of the natives came to the garrison thi'=i day; the commanding officers havino- requested they should not, which was strickly at- tended to. During the remainder of the month we lived in peace and tranquility in the garrison, and were daily visited by the natives.
66 JO'JfvNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
CHAPTER VI.
Tuesday, January 1, 1805. Two shots were fired from the swivel, followed by a round of small arms, to welcome the New Year. Captain Lewis then gave each a glass of good old whiskey; and a short lime after anoth- er was given by Captain Clarke.
About 11 o'clock one of the interpreters and half of our people, went up, at the request of the natives, to the village, to begin the dance; and were followed some time after by Captain Clarke, and three more men. The day was warm and pleasant. Ca})tain Lewis in the afternoon issued another glass of whiskey; and at night Captain Clarke and part of the men returned from the village, the rest remained all night.
Wednesday 2. Some snow fell this morning. The men, who remained at the village last night, returned. — Captain Lewis, myself and some others went up to the second village and amused ourselves with dancing &;c, ihe greater part of the day. In the evening we in general returned and a great number of the natives, men, women and children, came to see us, and appeared highly j)leased.
This day 1 discovered how the Indians kee]) their hor- ses during the winter. In the day time they are permit- ted to run out and gather what they can; and at night are brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and fed upon cotton wood branches: and in this way they are kept in tolerable case.
Thursday 3. From this to the 13th the weather was generally very cold; but our hunters were frequently out. One of them killed a beautiful white hare. These ani- mals are said to be ])lenty. ^Ve killed a small buflalo, three elk, four deer and two or three wolves. Three of the hunters going to a distance down the river, killed nothing for two days, but a wolf, which they were obliged to eat; and said they relished it pretty well, but found it rather tough, A number of the natives being out hunting in a very cold day, one of them gave out on his return in the evening; and was left in the })lain or prairie covered
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS, 67
wiih a bufTalo robe. After some time he began to recov- er and removed to the woods, where he broke a number of branches to lie on, and to keep his body off the snow. In the morning he came to the fort, with his feel badly- frozen, and the officers undertook his cure.
Sunday 13. A clear cold day. A number of the na- tives went down the river to hunt with our men. In the evening one of our interpreters and another Frenchman who had gone with him to the Assiniboins for fur return- ed. Thev had their faces so badlv frost bitten that the skin came off, and their guide was so badly frozen that they were obliged to leave him with the Assiniboins. — This nation lives near the Rockv Mountains, and about 90 miles from fort Mandan, *
Monday 14. Some snow fell this morning. Six more hunters went out to join those with the natives. In the evening one of the hunters, that first went out, returned. They had killed a buffalo, a wolf and two porcupines; and one of the men had got his feet so badly frozen that he was unable to come to the fort.
During the loth and 16th the weather was warm, and the snow melted fast. Horses were sent for the lame man, and he was brought to the fort; his feet were not so bad as we had expected.
On the 17th it became cold; the wind blew hard from the north, and it began to freeze.
Friday 18. Clear cold weather. Two of our hunters returned, and had killed four deer, four wolves and a pra- row. Two men belonging to the N. W. company, who stay at the Grossventers village, came to the fort. They say this animal which the French call a prarow, or bra- row, is a species of the badger.
Saturday 19. Two men were sent with horses for
* It is presumed, no part of the grreat chain of Rocky Mountains comes as near as 90 miles to fort Mandan; but it is not improbable that there may be a mountain, connected with them, which runs a considerable distance eastward along the great dividing ridge; and on some maps a mountain is laid down running east and west, Bouth of the Assiniboin river and lake, which would appear to be not more than 90 or 100 miles from the Mandan villages.
68 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
meat, to the hunter's Camp, which is thirty miles down the river.
Sunday 20. I went up with one of the men to the villages. They treated us friendly and gave us victuals. After we were done eating they presented a bowlful to a buffalo head, saying ^^eat that.^^ Their superstitious cre- dulity is so great, that they believe by using the head well the living buffalo will come and that they will get a sup- ply of meat.
Monday 21. A clear cold day. Our hunters return- ed to the fort, and brought with them a three horse load of venison and elk meat.
The weather on the 22nd and 23d, was warm, and we commenced cutting the ice from about our craft, in order to get them out of the river. The snow fell about three inches deep.
Thursday 24. A cold day. Some of our hunters went out, but killed nothing.
Friday 25. All hands were employed in cutting away the ice, which we find a tedious business.
Saturday 2C. A pleasant day and all hands employed in cuttinii wood, to make charcoal. We have a black- smith with us, and a small set of blacksmith tools. The blacksmith makes war-axes, and other axes to cut wood; which are exchanged with the natives for corn, which is of great service to us, as we could not bring much with us.
On the 27th and 28th the weather became much more settled, warm and pleasant than it had been for some time.
Tuesday 29. We attempted another plan for getting our water c*"aft disengaged from the ice: which was to heat water in the boats, with hot stones; but in this pro- ject we failed, as the stones we found would not stand the fire, but broke to pieces.
Wednesday 30. I went up the river and found anoth- er kind of stones, which broke in the same manner: so our batteaux and periogues remained fast in the ice.
Thursday 31. Some snow fell last night. Five hun- ters went out with two_horses. In the morning the wind
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 69
blew and was cold, towards the middle of the day the weather became moderate, and the afternoon was plea- sant.
Friday, February 1, 1805. A cold day. About 11 o'clock our hunters came home, but had killed nothing. One of the men at the fort went out a short distance, and killed a small deer. On the next day he went out and killed another deer. This and the third were cold.
Monday 4. A fine day. Captain Clark and eighteen more went down the river to hunt. We proceeded on 20 miles and could see no game.
Tuesday 5. We proceeded on to some Indian camps and there we killed three deer. The next day we went on to more Indian camps and killed some deer. On the 7th we encamped in a bottom on the south side of the Missouri, and the next day turned out to hunt. We kill- ed ten elk and eighteen deer, and remained there all night. On the 9th we built a pen to secure our meat from the wolves, which are very numerous here; and in the evening went further down and encamped. The next morning we set out on our return towards the fort; and killed some elk and deer in our wav. On the 12th we arrived at the fort; and found that one of our interpreter's wives had in our absence made an addition to our num- ber. On the 13th we had three horses shod to bring home our meat.
Thursday 14. Four men set out early with the hor- ses and sleds to bring home our meat; and had gone down about 25 miles when a party of Indians (they did not know of what nation) came upon them and robbed them of their horses one of which they gave back, and went off without doing the men any further injury. The same night the men came back and gave information of what had happened. At midnight Captain Lewis called for twenty volunteers who immediately turned out. Hav- ing made our arrangements, we set out early, accompani- ed by some Indians; and having marched thirty miles encamped in some Indian huts.
Saturday 16. We renewed our pursuit early, and had a cold morning. Having proceeded twelve miles we dis-
70 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
covered fresh smoke arising at some old camps, whero we had hid some meat hefore when Captain Clarke was down; and therefore advanced with caution. Having ar- rived at the place we found the savages were gone; had destroyed our meat, burnt the huts and fled into the plains. This morning the Indians, who had come down with us and one of our men whose feet had been a little frozen, returned home. We hunted the 17ih and 18th and got a good deal of meat which we brought to a place where some more had been secured. The 19th we loaded our sleds very heavy, and fifteen men drew one and the horse the other, which was a small one. On the next day we arrived at the fort much fatigued.
Thursday 21. Some rain fell to-day, the first that has fallen since November. In the evening the weather be- came clear and pleasant.
Friday 22. Was a fine day and we again began to cut away the ice, and succeeded in getting out one of the periogucs.
Saturday 23. We had fine pleasant weather, and all hands were engaged in cutting away the ice from the boat and the other periogue. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had the good fortune to get both free from the ice; and in the three following days succeeded in getting them all safe upon the bank. On the 27th we made preparations for making periogucs to pursue our voyage in.
Thursday 28. Sixteen of us went up the river about six miles, where we found and cut down trees for four canoes. While we were absent an express arrived from the Rickarees village with news that the Sioux had de- clared war against us, and also against the Mandans and Grossventers. They had boasted of the robbery of the 14th at the Rickarees village in their way home, and that they intended to massacre the whole of us in the spring. By this express we therefore found out that it was the Sioux who had taken the horses from our men.
Friday, March 1, 1805. The same party encamped out to make the canoes, and continued until six were made.
On the 20th and 21st wo carried them to tho river
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 71
about a mile and an half distant: There I remained with two men to finish them, and to take care of them, until the 26ih, when some men came up from the fort, and we put the canoes into the water. As the river had risen there was some water between the ice and the shore. We got three of them safe to the fort; but the ice break- ing before the other three were got down, so filled the channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of the way by land. On the 27th we put one of the canoes into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry. We found they would not carry as much as was expected, and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along. The remainder of the month we were employed in pre- paring our craft for renewal of our voyage.
Monday, April 1, 1805. As our large boat was to re- turn immediately to St. Louis, the whole of our craft was put into the water. A considerable quantity of rain fell this day; the first of any consequence that had fallen here for six months. The second was a fair day but windy. On the 3d the weather was fine and pleasant. Some boxes were made, in which it was intended to have packed skins of different animals, which had been pro- cured in the country, to be sent down in the batteaux.
Thursday 4. A fine clear day. We packed the box- es full of skins, buffalo robes, and horns of the Mountain ram, of a great size, for the president; and began to load the boat.
Friday 5. This was a clear day and the wind blew hard and cold from the N. W. We took all our goods, stores and baggage out, divided and put them aboard our craft, that we might be ready to continue our voyage.
If this brief Journal should happen to be preserved, and be ever thought worthy of appearing in print: some readers will perhaps expect, that, after our long friendly intercourse with these Indians, among whom we have spent the winter; our acquaintance with those nations lower down the river and the information we received re- lative to several other nations, we ought to be prepared now, when we are about to renew our voyage, to give some account of the fair sex of the Missouri ; and enter-
72 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
tain ihcm wiih narratives of feats of love as well as of arms. Tliough we could furnish a sufficient number of entertaining stories and pleasant anecdotes, we do not think it prudent to swell our Journal with them; as our views arc directed to more useful information. Besides, as we are yet ignorant of the dangers, which may await us, and the difficulty of escape, should certain probable incidents occur, it may not be"' inconsistent with good policy to keep the Journal of as small and portable a size as circumstances will make practicable. It may be ob- served generally that chastity is not very highly esteemed by these people, and that the severe and loathsome effects of certahi French principles are not uncommon among them. The fact is, that the women are generally consi- dered an article of traffic, and indulgence are sold at a very moderate price. As a proof of this I will just men- tion, that for an old tobacco box, one of our men was granted the honor of passing a night with the daughter of the head chief of the Mandan nation. An old bawd with her punks, may also be found in some" of the villages on the Missouri, as well as in the large cities of polished nations.
CHAPTER VII.
Saturday 6. The day was clear and pleasant. This day we heard that some of the Rickarees had come up to the Mandan villages. Our interpreter and some of the men were sent over to ascertain the truth of the report; and we were detained all day waiting their return.
Sunday 7. The men returned and four of the Rick- arees with them. The commanding officers held a con- versation with these Indians, and they concluded that some of them would go down in the boat from their vil- lage to St. Louis. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon we left fort Mandan in good spirits. Thirty-one men and a "vroman went up the river and thirteen returned down it in the boat. We had two periogues and six canoes, and
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 73
proceeded about four miles, and encamped opposite the first Mandan village, on the north side.
Monday 8. We set out early and had a clear day. The wind blew hard from the N. \V. At twelve the word was passed from a canoe in the rear that it \vas sinking, when we halted in front and Captain Clarke went back to see what was the matter. This forenoon we passed two villages of the Grossventers, or Big-Belley nation of In- dians on the South side and a small river on the same side called Cutteau or Knife-Eivcr. The canoe which had been in distress, came up, and had received little damage except wetting some powder on board. The woman that is with us is a squaw of the Snake nation of Indians, and wife of our interpreter. We expect she will be of service to us, when passing through that nation. In the afternoon we passed very high bluffs on the South side; one of which had lately been a burning volcano. The pumice stones lay very thick around it, and there was a strong smell of Sulphur. * W^e came about four- teen miles and encamped on the North side.
Tuesday 9. We set out early, and about 1 o'clock we passed a party of Indians hunting: made about twenty- two miles and encamped on the North side.
Wednesday 10. We proceeded again early, and had rapid water and a great many sand-bars ; but a fine plea- sant day. Having proceeded about nineteen miles we encamped on the North side.
Thursday 11. We got underway early, had a fine clear pleasant day, and went on very well. We saw some Indians on the South side, but did not speak with them. We came about twenty-one miles and encamped on the North side.
Friday 12. Another fine day. We set out early as usual. About eight we came to the mouth of the Little
* "Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused a strong sulphureous stench." — Makenzie's Voyage.
These appearances were near the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains where they were crossed by Mr. Mackenzie's party; and in about lat. 56. North, and long. 120. West.
74 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Missouri, a handsome small river that comes in on the South side where we hahed and took breakfast. The river is very properly called the Little Missouri, for it exactly resembles the Missouri in color, current and laste.f It was thought advisable to remain here the remainder of the day, and air our loading. Some hunters went out and killed a deer, and Captain Clarke killed a hare, which was now changing its color from white to grey.
Saturday 13. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind ; but our small canoes could not bear the sail. Some of the pnrty caught some beaver, and some Frenchman who were out trapping caught saven of them. We passed a large creek on the South side, called Onion Creek. We came 23 miles and encamped on the North side, where we found a wild goose nest on a tree about 60 feet high. One of the men climbed the tree and found one egg in the nest.
Sunday 14. We started early as usual, and had a fine morning. As we were setting out a black dog came to us, and went along, supposed to have belonged to a band of the Assiniboins, who had been encamped near this place a few days ago. We passed a hill resembling a large haystack, all but about ten feet of the top which was as whit3 as chalk. The hills in general arc much higher here than lower down the river; but the bottoms much the same. In the afternoon we passed a creek, called after our interpreter, Sharbons Creek. He had been, before, this far up the Missouri, and no white man any further, that we could discover. We made 16 miles and encamp- ed in a handsome bottom on the North side.
Monday 15. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind; set forward early as usual, and went on very well. Pass- ed a large Creek on the North side, called Goat-Pen Creek. We saw a number of buffalo and two bears on the bank of the river. After going 23 miles we encamp- ed on the South side.
Tuesday 16. We had a clear pleasant day; and in
t The maps of Louisiana place tlie Mandan villaj^es west of the little Missouri; whereas it is ascertained by this expedition to be 92 miles higher up the Missouri than the Mandans.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 7S
the early part of it, a fair gentle wind. Captain Clarke went out and killed a Cabre or Antelope, the same kind of an animal, which we before called a goat. The wind became flawy and the sailing bad. After making eighteen miles we encamped on the South side in a point of woods called the Grand Point.
Wednesday 17. We proceeded on early as usual with a fair wind. The day was fine and we made good way. Passed a beautiful plain and two large Creeks on the North side, and another creek on the South. We saw a great many buffalo and elk on the banks. At 1 o'clock we halted for dinner, when two men went out and in a few minutes killed two buffalo. We made 26 miles and en- camped on the South side, and found that some rain had fallen during the day, where we encamped, though there was none where we had been.
Thursday 18. The men caught some beaver, and killed a wild goose. The morning was fine and we went on very well until 1 o'clock, when the wind blew so hard down the river, we were obliged to lie to for three hours, after which we continued our voyage. This day Captain Clarke went by land and met us in the afternoon on the bank with an elk and a deer. We came about 14 miles and encamped in a good harbor on the North side, on ac- count of the wind, which blew very hard all night accom- panied by some drops of rain.
Friday 19. A cloudy morning, with high wind. We did not set out until the next day. While we lay here, I went out to the hills, which I found very high, much wash- ed by the rain, and without grass. I saw a part of a log quite petrified, and of which good whetstones, or hones could be made. I also saw where a hill had been on fire, and pumice stones around it. There is a great quantity of hysop in the vallies. We killed an elk and some wild geese, and caught some beaver.
Saturday 20. We set out again and had a cold disa- greeable morning; rapid water and a strong wind. Some of the canoes took in a good deal of water; and we made but six miles, when we were obliged again to lie too, on account of the wind, and to dry our loading. While we
76 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
lay here we killed three elk and got a number of Geese eggs out of their nests, which are generally built on trees. Sunday 21. We proceeded on early; and had a fine clear morning, but cold; there was a sharp frost. We saw a great number of elk, buffalo and deer on both sides of the river. About twelve the wind again rose and was disagreeable, but we continued our voyage. Two of our hunters went out this afternoon and caught three young buffalo calves. We passed a small river called White Clay river on the North side and having gone 15 miles encamped on the South side.
Monday 22. Before day light we continued our voy- age; passed a beautiful bottom on the North side, cover- ed with game of different kinds. The wind was unfavor- able to day, and the river here is very crooked. We came about 14 miles, then encamped on the South side and caught some beaver.
Tuesday 23. We set out early and had a fine day; but the wind was ahead and we were obliged to lie too about three hours. We went 15 miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Clarke killed three blacktailed deer and a bufTalo calf.
Wednesday 24. This was a clear day, but the wind blew so hard down the river we could not proceed. — While we lay here some of the men went to see some water at a distance which appeared like a river or small lake. In the afternoon they returned, and had found it only the water of the Missouri, which had run up a bot- tom. One of the men caught six young wolves and brought them in, and the other men killed some elk and deer.
Thursday 25. We set out as usual and had a fine day; but about eleven were obliged to halt again, the wind was so strong ahead. Captain Lewis and four men set off by land from this place to go to the river Jaune, or Yellow Stone river, which it is believed is not very dis- tant. I remarked, as a singular circumstance, that there is no dew in this country, and very little rain. Can it be owing to the want of timber? At 5 o'clock in the after-
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. TT
noon, we renewed our voyage; and having this day ad- vanced about 13 miles, encamped on the South side.
Friday 26. A fine day. We set out early, and hav- ing proceeded 10 miles came at 12 o'clock to the mouth of the Jaune and halted: Captain Lewis and his party had not arrived. I went up the point about nine miles, where there are the most beautiful rich plains I ever be- held. I saw a large pond or lake. Captain Clarke while I was absent measured both rivers; and found the breadth of the Missouri to be 337 yards of water, and 190 of a sand beach; total 527 yards. That of the Yellow Stone river 297 yards of water and 561 of sand; total 858 yards. The mouth of this river is 1888 miles from the mouth of the Missouri; 278 from Fort Mandan and 186 from the mouth of Little Missouri.
The river Jaune is shallow, and Missouri deep and ra- pid. In the evening Captain Lewis with his party joined us; and had brought with them a buffalo calf, which fol- lowed them seven or eight miles. We killed a number of calves, and found they made very good veal. There are a great many signs of beaver in this part of the coun- try. We encamped on the point all night.
Saturday 27. About 9 o'clock in the forenoon we re- newed our voyage. The day was fine, but on account of a strong wind we were obliged at one to halt, till four, when we again went on; and having this day made eight miles, encamped on the North side.
Sunday 28. We set out early, had a fine day and went on very well. About nine we halted for breakfast under very high bluffs on the North side. About 15 miles above the Yellow Stone river, the banks on the Missouri are not so high as below it, and the sand bars are more in the middle of the river. We came 24 miles and encamped on the North side in a handsome bottom. The bottoms here are not so large, and have less timber on them than those below the Jaune.
]\Ionday 29. W^e again set out early, had a clear morning and went on at a good rate. This forenoon we
78 Journal of lewis and clarke
passed some of the liighest blulTs I had ever seen; and on the lop of the highest we saw some Mountain sheep, which the natives say are common about the Rocky Mountains. These were the first we had seen, and we attempted to kill some of them but did not succeed. Cap- tain Lewis, and one of the men, travelled some distance by land and killed a white bear. The natives call them white, but they are more of a brown grey. They are longer than the common black bear, and have much larger feet and talons. We went 25 miles and encamjjed on the bank of a small river, which comes in on the North side about 70 yards wide.
Tuesday 30. We embarked at sunrise; had a fine morning and went on very well. We passed through a handsome Country, with a rich soil, and the prairies rising beautifully on both sides of the river. We went 24 miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Lewis killed a laro;c elk here.
CHAPTER Yin.
Wednesday, May 1, 1805. We set out early in a cool morning; and went on till 12 o'clock, when the wind rose so high, that our small canoes could not stand the waves. We made onlv ten miles this day.
Thursday 2. At daybreak it began to snow; and the wind continued so high, we could not proceed until the afternoon. While we lav here our hunters went out and killed some buffalo and deer. They found some red cloth at an old Indian camp, which Ave suppose had been offered and Ic^ft as a sacrifice; the Indians having some knowledge of a supreme being and this their mode of worship. The snow did not fall more than an inch deep. At four we set out, went six miles, and encamped on the North side in a beautiful bottom.
Friday 3. We proceeded on our voyage this morn- ing, though very cold and disagreeable, and a severe frost. The snow and green grass on the prairie exhibited an ap-
80 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
peanince somcvvliat uncommon. The couon wood leaves are as large as dollars, noiwiihstanding the snow and such hard frost. We passed a small river on the north sido called the 2000 mile river. About a mile above we pass- ed a large creek on the South side, called Porcupine Creek. We came this day about 20 miles and encamped on the North side.
Saturday 4. This day was more pleasant: in the fore- noon we passed a creek on the South side, about 40 yards wide. The river has been more straight for two or three days than it was before; the bottoms larger and more timber on them. We went about eighteen miles and en- camped on the north side. One of the men became sick this morning and has remained so all day.
Sunday 5. The morning was fine with some white frost. During this day the country appeared beautiful on both sides of the river. We went sixteen miles and encamped on the North side. The sick man has be- come better. Here we killed a very large brown bear, which measured three feet five inches round the head ; three feet eleven inches round the neck; round the breast five feet ten and a half inches; the length eight feet sev- en and a half inches; round the middle of the fore leg twenty-three inches ; and his talons four inches and three eights of an inch.
Monday 6. We set sail with a fair wind and plea- sant weather. At twelve a few drops of rain fell, but it soon cleared up. We passed a river on the South sido about 200 yards wide; but the water of this river sinks in the sand on the side of the Missouri. We went twen- ty-six miles and encamped on the South side.
Tuesday 7. We again set out early and went on very well till twelve when it began to blow hard, and being all under sail one of our canoes turned over. Fortunately the accident happened near the shore ; and after halting three hours we were able to go on again. Having lliis day made sixteen miles we encamped on the South side.
Wednesday 8. We were again very early under way in a cloudy morning; about twelve some rain fell: at two we passed a handsome river on the North side about 200
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 81
yards wide called Milk River. There is a good deal of water in this river which is clear, and its banks beau- tiful. Our distance this day was about twenty-seven miles, and we encamped in a beautiful bottom on the South side.
Thursday 9. We proceeded on early and had a fine day. The country on both sides begins to be more bro- ken, and the river more crooked. At one, we passed a creek on the South side, and having made about 25 miles we encamped at the mouth of a creek on the North side, called by the name of Warner's Creek.
Friday 10. We set out early in a fair morning; but having gone five miles were obliged to halt and lie by during the day, on account of hard wind. Some small showers of rain occasionally fell. Here we killed some deer and buffalo and took some beaver.
Saturday 11. The morning was fine, we started at the usual hour: at one passed a small creek on the South side. This day we saw several gangs of buffalo, and other game in plenty. One of the men killed another large brown bear, about the size of the one lately killed. We came seventeen miles and encamped on the South side.
Sunday 12. We early renewed our voyage and had a pleasant morning; passed some hills on the North side, covered with pine and cedar, the first timber of any kind we have seen on the hills for a long time. At one we halted for dinner and a violent storm of wind then arose, which continued until nisjlit when some rain fell. Our distance this day only 13^ miles.
Monday 13. The weather continued stormy, and some few drops of rain fell. At one P. M. we embarked, passed three creeks, one on the North side and two on the South; went seven miles, and encamped in a large bottom.
Tuesday 14. There was some white frost in the mornmg, we proceeded on early; passed black hills close to the river on the South side and some covered with pine timber at a distance. About twelve the day became warm. Banks of snow were seen lying on the hills on the North
6
82 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
side. This forenoon we passed a larg3 creek on the North side and a small river on the South. About four in the afternoon we passed another small river on the South side near the mouth of which some of the men discover- ed a large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill it. They fired at it; but havirjg only wound, d it, it made bat- tle and was near seizing some of them, but they all for- tunately escaped, and at length succeeded in dispatching it. These bears are very bold and ferocious; and very large and powerful. The natives say they have killed a number of their brave men. The pericgues having gone ahead, while the people belongiiig to the canoes were dressing the b:ar, a sudden gust of wind arose, which overset one of the pericgues before the sail could be got down. The men who had been on board, turned it again and got it to shore, full of water. It was immediately unleaded and the cargo opened, when we found a great part of the medicine, and other articles spoiled. Here we encamped, having come today 18| miles.
Wednesday 15. Wc remained here all day to dry our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy and unfa- vorable for the purpose, and some rain fell.
Thursday 10. This was a fine day, and by 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had all our articles dry and on board again. At that time we proceeded on our voyage; pass- ed high barren hills on both sides of the river, with only a few pine trees on them. We advanced seven miles and encamped in a handsome bottom on the South side where there are a numb >r of old Indian huts.
Friday 1 7. The morning was fine and we embarked early. The hills here come very close to the river on both sides, and have very little timber on them. They are very high and much washed. There are some of them, which at a distance resemble ancient steeples. We passed two rivers, one on each side. During the wholo of this day's voyage the Missouri was very handsome, and about 300 yards wide. We made 20| miles and en- camped on the South sidt\
Saturday 18. A cloudy morning. We proceeded as usual. The country much the same as yesterday; until
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 83
about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became more exten- sive on both sides of the river. There is still a small quantity of pine timber on the hills. We had some showers of rain in the forenoon ; hail in the afternoon; and a fine clear evening. We went nineteen miles and encamped on the South side opposite an island.
Sunday 19. The morning was foggy and there was some dew. The river is handsome and the country mountainous. We made 20^ miles and encamped on the North side in a small bottom.
Monday 20. We set sail early and had a fine morn- ing. Passed a creek on the south side and about eleven came to the mouth of the Muscle-shell River, a handsome river that comes in on the South side. The water of the Missouri is becoming more clear. We here spent the remainder of the day, having come seven miles. Cap- tain Lewis had an observation here, which gave 47°. 00. 24. North latitude: and Captain Clarke measured the rivers. The Missouri here is 222 yards wide, and the Muscle-shell 110 yards. The water of the latter is of a pale color, and the current is not rapid; its mouth is 660 miles above Fort Mandans.
Tuesday 21. W^e proceeded on early and had a fine mornmg; towards the middle of the day the wind blew hard; but we went on very well for 20 miles, and en- camped on a sand-beach on the North side.
Wednesday 22. A cloudy morning. The wind blew so hard this morning, we did not get under way until 9 o'clock. The forenoon was cold and disagreeable, but the afternoon became more pleasant. We killed a brown bear and some other game on our way. Having gone 16^ miles we encamped on the North side.
Thursday 23. The morning was clear with a white frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We passed two creeks, one on each side of the river: and two Islands, which are not common. There are very few between these and Fort Mandans, not more than six or eight. In the evening we killed a large bear in the river; but he
84 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
sunk and wc did not get him.* We went 285 miles and encamped.
Friday 24. There was again some white frost this morning. We embarked early; passed a large creek on the North side and a beautiful Island close on the South- ern shore. At the head of the Island, came in another creek on the South side. The bottom of the river, and sand-bars have become much more gravelly than we found them at any place lower down. The water is high, rapid and more clear. At dinner time a party was sent out to bring the meat of some animals that had been kill- ed at a distance. Here we left two canoes to wait for them and proceeded on. We passed a creek on the North side, and having made 24^: miles encamped on the South side. The hills are near, on both sides of the river, and very high.
Saturday 25. We waited here in the morning until the canoes came up ; and about seven proceeded on our voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We passed two creeks opposite to each other on the opposite sides of the river. About twelve we passed a bottom on the North side with one solitary tree on it, upon which there was an eagle's nest. The bottoms here are very small. As we went on this afternoon, some of the party killed three of what the French and natives call mountain sheep; but they very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns and feet. They are of a dun color except on the belly and round the rump, where they are white. The horns of the male are very large; those of the female small. They have a fine soft hair. Captain Clarke calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer. The hills here are very high and steep. One of our men in an attempt to climb one had his shoulder dis- located ; it was however replaced without much difficulty. These hills are very much washed in general: they appear like great heaps of clay, washing away with every shower; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any
* It is said that bears, beavers, otters and such animals will sink unless shot dead.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 85
of them. This evening we passed an island all prairie except a few trees on the upper end of it. We went 18 miles and encamped on the South side.
Sunday 26. We set out early in a fine morning, and passed through a desert country ; in which there is no timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or mountain sheep. One of our men killed a male, which had horns two feet long, and four inches diameter at the root. * We passed two creeks this forenoon on the North
* "The Ibex resembles the goat in the shape of its body; but differs in the horns which are much larger. They are bent back- wards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted that there is a knot added every year. There are some of these found if we may believe Bellonius, at least two yards long. The Ibex has a large black beard, is of a brown color, with a thick woven coat of hair. There is a streak of black runs along the top of the back; and the belly and back of the thighs are of a fawn color. It is a native of the Alps, the Pyrenees, and mountains of Greece; extremely swift and capable of running with ease along the edges of precipices, where even the Wolf or the Fox, though instigated by hunger, dares not pursue it." Goldsmith.
Such is the description given of the Ibex; but which to us does not appear to suit the animal found about the Rocky Mountains called the mountain Ram. From what we have before heard of that animal, and from Mr. Gass's verbal description, we are led to believe, that it much more nearly resembles the wild sheep, called the Mufflon or IMusmon, to be found in the uncultivated parts of Greece, Sardinia, Corsica and in the desart of Tartary; and which is thought to be the primitive race and the real sheep in its wild and savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same; of which we find the following description.
"The ?(IufEon, or Musmon, thougli covered with hair, bears a stronger similitude to the Ram than to any other animal; like the Ram it has the eyes placed near the horns; and its ears are shorter than those of the Goat: it also resembles the Ram in its horns, and in all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike; they are of a white or yellow color; they have three sides as in the Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. — The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish color tinctured with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey. The general color of the hair over the body is of a brown, approach- ing to that of the red deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are of a white, tinctured with yellow. The form upon the whole seems more made for agility and strength than ihat of the common sheep; and the Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, and main-
8G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
side; and in the evening one of ihe men killed a buffalo. At dark we came to largo rapids, where we had to unite ihe crews of two or three canoes, to force them through. It was sometime after night before we could encamp. — We at lengih, after having gone 21 miles encamped on the South side in a small grove of timber; the first we had seen during the day.
Monday 27. We have now got into a country which presents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness and desolation; and see no encouraging prospects that it will terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting the country we have passed.
From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quan- tity of timber; in many places very rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful.
From the confluence of the river Platte with the Mis- souri to the Sterile desert, we lately entered, a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in general be called good second rate land. The country is rather hillv than level, thouo;h not mountain- ous, rocky or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of country and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cotton wool and willows are frequent in the bot- toms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely with-
tain itself cither by force or swiftness against all the animals that live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed that many have been inclined rather to rank it among the deer kind, than the sheej. — But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to shed its horns. In some these are seen to grow to a surprising size; many of them raca-suring, in their convolutions, above two ells long " Goldsjiiith
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 87
out limber, and consists of large prairies or plains the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colors. The views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening wavy ridges, until by their distance ihcy fade from the sight; large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in various meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow along the waters intersecting the landscapes in different directions, dividing them into various forms, at length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the buffalo, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the prominent objects, which com- pose the extensive prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the beholder.
The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large, and during high water mostly over- flowed.
There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windirgs but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. Thjre are also roads and paths made by the buffalo and other animals; some of the buffalo roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult v/ater, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing but barren mountains on both sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the' purpose, and made out to get enough of driftwood to cook with.
Tuesday 28. We set sail early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on through this desert country until about 4 o'clock P. M. when we came to a more pleasant part. We made twenty-one miles and encamped on the North side.
88 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Wednesday 29. Wc proceeded on early and had a fine morning: passed two rivers, one on each side. At twelve it became cloudy and began to rain. We went about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome grove of timber on the South side. It rained a little all the after- noon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an elk. Last night about 12 o'clock a buffalo swimming the river happened to land at one of the periogues, crossed over it and broke two guns, but not so as to render them useless. He then went strait on through the men where they were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came along to day we passed a place where the Indians had driven above an hundred head of buffalo down a preci- pice and killed them.
Thursday 30. The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in close on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are as black as coal and some white as chalk. We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass alorg. It rained a little all day; we went on slow and encamped early on the North side, in a small bottom with some cotton wood, having proceeded on eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills.
Friday 31. We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed through a mountainous country, but the game is more plenty, and we killed some buffalo in our way. About 1 1 o'clock it began to rain slowly, and continued raining two hours, when it cleared up. We passed some very curious cliffs and rocky peaks, in a long range. — Some of them 200 feet high and not more than 8 feet thick.
They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so numerous that they appear like the ruins of an ancient city. We went 17^ miles and encamped at the mouth of a handsome creek on the North side.
Saturday, Jur.e 1, 1805. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more handsome country, than for some days past. It appears more level and there are some good bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large; also a number of beautiful small islands covered with cotton
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 89
wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yester- day our men killed three of them, that had remarkable large horns ; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on the North side about 1 1 o'clock. The water is not so rapid to day as usual, but continues high. In the afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide, and several small islands. We went 24 miles and encamped on a small island.
Sunday 2. We embarked early in a fme morning. The hills come close on the river, but are not so high nor so broken, as we found them a short distance lower down. This forenoon we passed two creeks, one on each side, and several islands covered whh cotton wood; but there is not a stick of timber to be seen any where upon the hills. Some of the hunters killed a brown bear in a small bottom on the south side, and having come 18 miles we encamped just above the bottom on the same side, at the mouth ol a large river.
Monday 3. We crossed over to the point between the two rivers and encamped there. The commanding officers could not determine which of these rivers or branches, it was proper to take; and therefore concluded to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the South branch, and a serjeant and two more up the North. The parties went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch rapid with a great many islands and the general course South West. The other party reported the North branch as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North branch is 186 yards v/ide and the South 372 yards. The water of the South branch is clear, and that of the North muddy. About a mile and a half up the point from the confluence, a handsome small river falls into the North branch, called Rose river. Its water is muddy, and the current rapid. Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude at the point, which gave 47^. 24. 12. North lati- tude. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke were not yet satisfied with respect to the proper river to ascend.
Tuesday 4. Captain Lewis with six men went up the North branch, to see if they could find any certain marks
90 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
to determine whether that was the Missouri or not; and Captain Clarke myself and four others went up the South branch, for the same purj)oso with regard to that branch. About eight miles above the confluence, the South branch and the small river which falls into the North branch, are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful spring where we refreshed ourselves with a good drink of grog; and proceeded on through the high plains. Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which are in abun- dance, and some short grass. We went on about thirty miles and found the river still extending in a South West direction. We saw a mountain to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared to run East and West, and some spots on it resembling snow. In the evening we went towards the river to encamp, whore one of the men having got down to a small point of woods on the bank, before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he bear, and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards from him, but the bank there was so steep we could not get down to his assistance: we, however, fired at the ani- mal from the place where we stood and he went off with- out injuring the man. Having got down we all encamp- ed in an old Indian lodge for the night.
Wednesday 5. Some slight showers of rain fell in the night, and the morning was cloudy. When prepar- ing to set out wc discovered three bears coming up the river towards us; we therefore halted awhile and killed the whole of them. About seven we set out along the plains again, and discovered the mountain South of us covered with snow, that had fallen last night. W hen we had gone about 1 1 miles wc saw a large mountain to the West of us also covered with snow. This mountain ap- l)eared to run from North to South, and to be very high. The b:.'aring of the river is still South West. Captain Clarke thought this a good course for us to proceed on our voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again. We went about 15 miles and struck the small river about 20 miles from its mouth. Here wc killed some elk and deer and encamped all night. There is a great deal of
92 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
timber in the bottoms of iliis little river, and plenty of ditForcnt kinds of game. In those bottoms 1 saw the stalks t)f a j)lant resembling flax in every particular.
Thursday 6. We proceeded down the small river and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we went on the plains again, which we kept on till we came to the point in the evening. Captain Lewis and his party had not returned. Some light rain fell this afternoon.
Friday 7. It rained all day: Captain Lewis and parly did not return.
Saturday 8. A fine cool morning. About 10 o'clock A. M. the water of the South river, or branch, became almost of the color of claret, and remained so all day. The water of the other branch has the appearance of milk when contrasted with the water of this branch in its present state. About four in the afternoon Captain Lewis and his party came to camp. They had been up the North branch about 60 miles, and found it navigable that distance; not so full of islands as the other branch and a greater quantity of timber near, it and j)lcnty of game, which is not the case on the South branch. Its bearing something north of west a considerable distance, and then to the south of west. The party while out kill- ed eighteen deer and some elk. From the appearance of the river where they left it to return, ihcy supposed it micht be navio;able a considerable distance further. — They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards the north: it was not covered with snow like those we had seen. Both these rivers abound in fish ; and we caught some of dilforcnt kinds, but not large. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon the weather became cloudy and cold, and it began to rain. The officers concluded that the South branch was the most proper to ascend, which they think is the Missouri. The other they called Maria's river. At dark the rain ceased.
Sunday 9. A line morning. It was thought advisa- ble to leave the large pcriogue here and part of the stores and baggage, and some of the men were engaged in dig- ging a case to bury them in. The water of the Missouri changed this morning to its former color. The day was
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 93
fine, but tlie wind blew hard from the northwest. One of the men killed an excellent fat buffalo. There is a quan- tity of goose-berry and choak-cherry bushes on the point, and also some rabbit berries.
Monday 10. We hauled our large perioguc on an island in the mouth of Maria's river and covered it over with brush. We then began to examine and assort our effects to see what would be the least wanted and most proper to leave; but about two it began to rain and blow so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued only an hour, and in the evening we loaded the rest of the craft, and left the remainder of our stores and bag- gage to be hurried, consisting of corn, pork, flour, some powder and lead, and other articles amounting to about one thousand pounds weight.
Tuesday 11. A fine day. Captain Lewis and four men set out this morning to go to the mountains, which we had discovered towards the west. The rest of the party were engaged in hurrying the baggage and goods which had been left, and preparing to start the following morning.
CHAPTER IX.
Wednesday 12. The morning was fine; we set out from the mouth of Maria's river, and went on very well. In the forenoon we passed twelve islands. At 1 o'clock the weather became cloudy and threatened rain; at two there was a light shower, and the day became clear. We passed three islands this afternoon and some handsome bluffs on both sides of the river. We went 1 8 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the North side, where we killed two elk and some deer.
Thursday 13. We set out early in a fine morning, Some dew fell last night. We passed a large creek on the South side, called Snow creek. The water of the river is very clear and the current very rapid. We pass-
94 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
ed a number of islands covered with limber; but there is none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went 14 miles and encamped on the South side.
Friday 14. We embarked early, and the morning was pleasant. About 7 o'clock A. M. we passed a place where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears, and had left a note directins; us where to find them. About two, one of Captain Lewis' men met us, and informed us that the falls were about 20 miles above; and that Captain Lewis and the other three men, were gone on to examine what the distance was above the falls, before we could take water again. We went ten miles and encamped on a small bottom on the South side.
Saturday 15. W^e proceeded on as usual, but had the most rapid water, I ever saw any craft taken through. At noon we stopped at the mouth of a creek on the South side, called Strawberry creek, a handsome rapid stream, but not large. On a point above, there is a great quanti- ty of Strawberry, gooseberry and choak-cherry bushes; and there appears to be a good deal of small cotton-wood on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon we passed red bluffs on both sides of the river, .and at night came to a large rapid which we did not venture to pass so late; and therefore encamped below on the North side, after going 12 miles.
Sunday 16. In the morning all hands were engaged in taking the canoes over the rapid about a mile in length, which having accomplished they returned and took up the pcriogue, where we halted to examine another great rapid close ahead. One man had been sent on last night to Captain Lewis, to find out what discoveries he had made. We remained here some lime, and a few of the men went out to hunt. About noon Captain Lewis and the party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Cap- tain Lewis had been up to the falls, 15 miles above the first shoot or pitch, and found the falls continue all that distance, in which there were five different shoots, 40 or 50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid water between them. As we found the South side the best to carry our canoes up, we crossed over and unloaded our craft. W*
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 95
then had to take the empty canoes to the side we had left, and to tow them up by a line about a mile, in order to get them up to the mouth of a small river on the South side, as a more convenient place to take them up the bank. This business was attended with great difficulty as well as danger, but we succeeded in getting them all over safe.
Monday 17. Part of the men were employed in taking the canoes up the small river about a mile and a half; and some engaged in making small wagons to haul the canoes and loading above the falls. Captain Clarke and four men went out to view and survey our road to the place where we were to embark above the falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beauti- ful sulphur spring rises out of the bank, of as strong sulphur water as 1 have ever seen. On the bottoms of this small river and also on the Missouri is a great quan- tity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat we had with us. In the evening the men got the canoes to a proper place to take them upon land.
Tuesday 18. The periogue was hauled out of the water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a place for deposhing more of our baggage. About twelve the two hunters came in, and could tind no elk, but killed 10 deer. In the evening we completed our wagons, which were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary quality; but it is expected they will answer the purpose.
Wednesday 19. A fine day, but the wind very high. Three hunters set out for Medicine River, a large river above the falls, which comes in on the north side, to hunt for elk. We finished the burying place, so that we will be ready to start as soon as Captain Clarke returns. All our people are making moccasons to go through t he "prairie.
Thursday 20. A cloudy morning: four hunters went out to kill some fat buffalo. About 4 o'clock one of them came in for men to carry the meat to camp; as they had 14 down ready to butcher. We went out about a mile and a half, and brought in a load, leaving three men to
96 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
dress the rest. Captain Clarke and his party returned, having found a tolerable good road exce})! where some draughts crossed it. They had left their blankets and provision at the place where they expect we will again embark.
Friday 21. This morning was also fine, but there was a high wind. The remainder of the meat was brought in, and one of the men killed two deer.
Saturday 22. All hands, except two and the interpre- ter and his wife, set out through the prairie with one canoe on a wagon loaded heavy with baggage. We went on slowly as our axletrees were weak; and about 12 o'clock one of them broke; when we had to halt and put in a new one. This accident happened at a draught where there was some willow, and we put in an axletree of that; which I believe is the best this country affords for the purpose. It was late in the evening before we got to the intended place of embarkation on the river.
Sunday 23. The morning was cloudy. When I awoke this morninsf I found a material difference between the river and country here and below the falls. Here the river is wide and the current gentle. There are three small islands at this place and some timber on the banks, but not much, and what is there is cotton-wood and willow. The banks are very low, and the country rising in plains a considerable distance on both sides of the river; and far off moimtains covered with snow on both sides and ahead. Two of the men and myself remained with Captain Lewis here to assist him in putting together his iron boat, the rest went back for another load. The iron boat-frame is to be covered with skins and requires a quantity of thin shaved strips of wood for lining. In the forenoon we put the frame together, which is 36 feet long, 4^ wide, and two feet two inches deep. In the afternoon Captain Lewis and one of the men went down to Medicine River, which is about two miles distant; to see whether the three men sent there to hunt had procur- ed any elk skins. In the evening they found one of the hunters, and encamped with him all night.
Monday 24. In the morning Captain Lewis came up
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 97
to our camp. We found it very difficult to procure stuff for the boat. The two men which Captain Lewis had left in the morning came to our camp in the afternoon, but had seen nothing of the other two hunters. In the evening there was a very heavy shower of rain; at night the weather cleared up, and the men arrived with two more canoes. The two hunters which Captain Lewis could not find, had killed some buffalo below the mouth of the Medicine river, where one remained, and the other had gone across to the camp below the falls again, but had found no elk.
Tuesday 25. A cloudy morning. The men went back for more canoes and baggage; and one went down to the hunter's camp below Medicine river to bring him up in a canoe. Another went up the river to look for elk. When he had gone about three miles, he was attacked by three brown bears, that were near devouring him; but he made his escape by running down a steep bank into the water. In this adventure he fell, injured his gun, and hurt one of his hands; therefore returned to camp. One of the men and myself went over to an island to look for stuff for the canoe, but could find noth- ing but bark, which perhaps will answer. We killed two elk on the island. There is in the bottoms a great quan- tity of spear-mint and currant bushes. Also multitudes of blackbirds. The musketoes are very troublesome, though the snow is on the mountains so near. In the evening the two men came up the river with a quantity of good meat and 100 pounds of tallow.
Wednesday 26. A fine morning. Two hunters went up the river, and myself and another went over the river to collect bark; where a great gang of buffalo came near us, and we killed seven of them. In the evening the men returned over the plains with two more canoes and baggage. One man fell very sick and Captain Lewis had to bleed him with a penknife, having no other instrument at this camp. Captain Clarke measured the length of this portage accurately and found it to be 18 miles. He also measured the heighth of the falls, and found them in a distance of 17 miles, 362 feet nine inches. The first 7
«.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 99
groat pitch 98 feet, the second 19 feet, the third 47 feet eio^ht inches, the fourth 26 feet, and a number of small pitches, amounting altogether to 362 feet nine inches.
Thursday 27. A fine day. The men went back for the remaining canoe and baggage. The sick man has become better. This morning some elk came close to camp and we killed two of them. In the afternoon a dreadful hail storm came on, which lasted half an hour. Some of the lumps of ice that fell weighed three ounces, and measured seven inches in circumference. The eround was covered with them, as white as snow. It kept cloudy during the evening and some ram fell. At night the two hunters that went up the river returned. They had killed while out nine elk and three bears.
Friday 28. A fine morning. There are but six per- sons now at this camp, but all busy about the boat; some shaving skins, some sewing them together, and some pre- paring the wood part.
The following, as related by a traveller, is a striking, but melan- choly picture of cruelty towards the brute creation, mingling itself in what are called national sports. In perusing accounts such as these, we cannot but reflect Avith satisfaction, that, in this country, all public exhibitions in which the inferior animals are made to bleed for the mere amusement of man, may be said to be entirely abandoned, as unmanly and unbecoming a Christian people.
"We again repaired to the palace at an early hour; the Rajah was ready to receive us, and after a slight refreshment, we took our sta- tion in the gallery to witness the second day's sports. We were prepared for an unusual sight. A lion was to be turned into the arena with an African buffalo, purchased by his Highness some months before, and which still remained uncommonly wild and fierce.
We had not long taken our station in the gallery, before the buffalo was driven from its stall. The moment it entered the enclosure it began to bellow and plunge violently, throwing the dirt from its heels into the air at least a dozen feet high. It was a bony animal, as large as a Durham ox, though not, perhaps, quite so tall, its legs being short in proportion to its size. It had an im- mense head, with long horns, that curled like those of a ram, whilst its large projecting eye and dilated nostril gave it an expression of extreme fierceness. There was scarcely any hair upon its body, except on the neck and tail: at the extremity of the latter appeared a large tuft, very thick and coarse. It was altogether a very noble creature, full of strength and fury.
After a few moments the bars of the lion's cage were raised, and
5608 30
100 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Saturday 29. We had a very hard gust of wind and rain in the morning; but a fine forenoon after it. Cap- tain Lewis and a hunter went down the river about seven miles, to see a very large spring which rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side. In the after- noon there was another heavy shower of rain, and after it a fme evening. Captain Lewis came to camp, but drenched with rain.
Sunday 30. A fme morning, and heavy dew, which is very rare in this country. The men with the canoe and baggage did not return, as we expected.
Monday, July 1, 1805. A fine day. In the after- noon. Captain Clarke and the men came with all the baggage except some they had left six miles back. Tho hail that fell on the 27th hurt some of the men very badly. Captain Clarke, the interpreter, and the squaw and child, had gone to see the spring at the falls ; and when the storm began, they took shelter under a bank at the mouth of a run; but in five minutes there was seven feet water
the kingly animal bounded forward. It was one of the finest I had ever seen. A Hindoo sage has said that "tlie elephant, the lion, and the wise man, seek their safety in flight; but the crow, the deer, and the coward, die in their nest." In the present instance, how- ever, the lion was fully vindicated from the obloquy of such vul- gar wisdom, as will be presently seen.
It stalked majestically forward, but, seeing the buffalo, dropped upon its belly, swept the ground v.'ith its tail, and then uttering a short growl, made two or three leaps, and sprang upon its adversa- ry's neck without further preliminaries. The sudden shock brought the buffalo upon its knees; but inmiediately recovering, the latter threw back its head with a violence that disloged the lion, casting it with prodigious force against the strong wooden palings of the enclosure, at the same time striking one of its horns into the flank of its assailant and opening a hideous gash. The lion was for a moment stunned; nevertheless, before its enemy had time to tako advantage of its condition, it was on its legs, and had again sprung upon the buffalo's neck, which it lacerated dreadlully. There was now a deadly struggle; but the latter, repeating the same action which had before disengaged it from the gripe of its tawny foe, threw the lion against the palings with still greater violence than before, and there gored it with an animation that soon entirely disabled the noble beast from renewing the contest. The buffalo was by this time so exhausted that it fell by the side of its prostrate enemy. After some exertion the keepers got it upon its legs and led it from the scene of combat. The lion was with difliculty drag- ged into its cage, but in a few days appeared little the worse."
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 101
in the run; and they were very near being swept away. They lost a gun, and umbrella and a Surveyor's com- pass, and barely escaped with their lives.
Tuesday 2. A fme morning. The Surveyor's com- pass which had been lost was found to day. The men went out for the baggage which had been left on the way, and got in with the whole of it, and canoes safe.
In the evening, the most of the corps crossed over to an island, to attack and rout its monarch, a large brown bear, that held possession and seemed to defy all that would attempt to besiege him there. Our troops, however, stormed the place, gave no quarter, and its commander fell. Our army returned the same evening to camp with- out having suffered any loss on their side.
Wednesday 3. A fine morning. I was so engaged with the boat, that I had not visited the falls. I therefore set out with one of the men to-day for that purpose. I found the 2nd pitch the most beautiful, though not the highest. About a mile below the upper pitch, the largest and most beautiful spring rises out of the bank of the Missouri on the south side that I ever beheld. We had a light shower of rain. During this excursion I saw more buffalo than I had seen any day previous: we killed seven of them before we returned to camp. We also saw 25 wolves in one gang or pack.
Thursday 4. A fine day. A part of the men were busily engaged at the boat, and others in dressing skins for clothing, until about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when we drank the last of our spirits in celebrating the day, and amused ourselves with dancing till 9 o'clock at night, when a shower of rain fell and we retired to rest.
Friday 5. A fine morning. All the men, except five of us who where engaged at the boat, went to hunt; at night they came in and had killed several buffalo and some cabres or antelopes.
Saturday 6. As many of the hands as could find room to work were engaged at the boat; and four went down the river to hunt buffalo, in order to get their skins to cover our craft. This was a beautiful and pleasant day.
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Sunday 7. The morning was fine. The hunters had remained out all night. In the evening some few drops of rain fell ; and the hunters came in ; but had not had good luck, the buffalo being mostly out in the plains. At night we got our boat linished, all but greasing; and she was laid out to dry.
Monday 8. Again we had a fine morning, and a num- ber of the party went out to hunt. In the evening they all came in, and had killed but three buffalo, a deer and a cabrc; and caught a small animal almost like a cat, of a light color. Yesterday one of the men caught a small squirrel, like a ground squirrel, but of a more dun color, and more spotted. We finished the boat this evening, having covered her with tallow and coal-dust. We cal- led her the Experiment, and expect she will answer our purpose.
Tuesday 9. A fine morning, and heavy dew. In the forenoon we loaded our canoes, and put the Experiment into the water. She rides very light but leaks some. In the afternoon a storm of wind, with some rain came on from the north west, and we had again to unload some of our canoes, the weaves ran so high. After the storm we had a fine evenins;. The tallow and coal were found not to answer the purpose; for as soon as dry, it cracked and scaled ofT, and the water came through the skins. There- fore for want of tar or pitch we had, after all our labor, to haul our new boat on shore, and leave it at this place.
Wednesday 10. A fine cool morning. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke thought it would be best to make two canoes more, if we could get timber large enough. So Captain Clarke and 10 men set out in search of it. Some of the hunters having seen large timber about 20 miles up the river, the canoes were sent on loaded, and a party went by land; the distance that way being only six or seven miles. If timber is found, the canoes are to unload and return for the remainder of the baggage. Captain Lewis myself and nine men staid to take the boat asun- der and bury her; and deposited her safely under ground. Captain Lewis had an observation at 12 which gave 47° 3. 10. N. Latitude. In the afternoon I went out to see if
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 103
there were any bufTilo near, but f(3uad none: they appear to have all left the river. On the bank of a run where there are high rocks, I found a great quantity of sweet gooseberries, all ripe.
Thursday 11. We continued here waitins: for the r-'turn of the canoes until 2 o'clock; then four of us went out and killed a bufTilo and brought in part of the meat. The canoes did not come back this evening.
Friday 12. A fine morning. Myself and three of the men went up the river to assist Captain Clarke's par- ty. In our way we passed a small bottom on the north side of the river, in which there is an old Indian lodge 216 feet in circumference. Here we saw some wild pigeons and turtle doves. Having gone about seven miles we found Captain Clarke's party, who had cut down two trees and taken off logs for canoes, one 25 and the Other 30 feet in length. The canoes had returned to our old camp, where Captain Lewis was.
Saturday 13. A fine day, but high wind. Captain Lewis came up here, accompanied by the squaw. He informed us that the canoes had started with all the bag- gage from the former encampment, which we had called White-bear camp. The musketoes are very trouble- some. This evening the canoes were finished except the putting in some knees.
Sunday 14. A fine morning. About 11 o'clock the men came up with the canoes and baggage. The dis- tance by water was found to be 22 miles, and by land only six miles. In the afternoon some rain fell but we continued to work at the canoes, and finished them ready for loading.
CHAPTER X.
Monday 15. After a night of heavy rain, we had a pleasant morning, and loaded the canoes. About 1 1 o'clock we set out from this place, which we had called Canoe camp; had fine still water, and passed some hand- some small bottoms on both sides of the river. We also passed a handsome river on the south side, about 100
104 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
yards wide, which seemed to have its source in a large mountain on the same side. The snow appears to have melted from all the mountains in view. The country around is composed of dry plains, with short grass. We passed two small creeks, one on each side of the river; made 26 miles, and encamped on the North side.
Tuesday 16. We embarked early and had a fme morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on ahead to the mountain to take an observation. We passed the channel of a river on the south side without water, about 60 yards wide. We had fine water until about 1 o'clock, when we came within about two miles of the mountain; when the water became more rapid; but the current not so swift as below the falls. At this place there are a number of small islands. One of our men has been taken unwell. In the afternoon we continued our voyage, and the water continued very rapid. We got about three miles into the first range of the Rocky Mountains, and encamped on the north side of the river on a sand beach. There is some fine timber on the mountains, but not much in this part. There are great hills of solid rock of a dark color. This day we went about 20 miles.
Wednesday 17. We set out early, and the morning was fine and pleasant. At 8 o'clock we came to Captain Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the river, and took breakfast. We had h(?re to join the crews of two canoes together, to go up the rapids which were about half a mile long. The Missouri at this place is very narrow. At the head of these rapids a fine spring comes in on the south side, which rises about a quarter of a mile from the river; and has a good deal of small cotton-wood and willows on its banks. There is also another spring below the rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river. We proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or peaks of these mountains are 700 (perhaps some nearly 1200) feet high, all rock; and though they are almost per- pendicular, we saw mountain sheep on the very tops of them. We saw few other animals to day. The general breadth of the river is 100 yards. We went 11 miles and encamped in a small bottom on the North side.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 105
Thursday 18. The morning was fair and we proceed- ded on early ; passed Clear-water river on the north side about 50 yards wide, rapid and shallow. There are a great quantity of currants all along the river on both sides in the small bottoms. At breakfast time Captain Clarke with three men went on ahead. About eleven we got through the higher part of the mountains, and to where there is less timber and the rocks not so large. In the forenoon we passed two small creeks on the north side, and in the afternoon a small river on the same side; above the mouth of which we got a deer skin, that Captain Clarke's man had hung up. The country continues much the same. We made 20 miles this day.
Friday 19. A fine morning. At nine we came to high parts of the mountains, which had a good deal of pine, spruce and cedar on them, and where there were not so many rocks ; but no timber in the bottoms except some small willows. About 1 o'clock we had thunder, light- ning and rain, which continued an hour or two, and then the weather became clear. This afternoon we passed parts of the mountains, that were very high, and mostly of solid rock of a light color. The mountains are so close on the river on both sides that we could scarcely find room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped on the South side. After night some rain fell.
Saturday 20. We had a fine morning, and embarked early. About eight we got out of the high part of the mountains, and came to where they are lower and not so rocky; and where there are the finest currants I ever saw of different kinds, red, yellow and black; the black are the most palatable. There is also a good portion of tim- ber on the mountains all along this part. We killed an elk in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain Clarke had left on the bank with a note, informing us he would pass the mountain he was then on, and wait for the canoes. We passed a small creek on the south side, and about two o'clock came to a level plain on the north side, from which we saw a strong smoke rising, and supposed it was from a fire made by Captain Clarke. The river is very crooked in general, and here is a great bend to the
106 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
southeast; and in the afternoon it turned so far that our course was north of east. We proceeded on through a valley between two mountains, one of whicli we passed, and the other is in view ahead. We went 15 miles and encamped at the mouth of a small run on the South side.
Sunday 21. W^e set out at sun rise and had a pleasant morning; passed some middling high hills on the river, and rocks of a red purple color; also two small creeks, one on each side. There arc a few pines on the hills. At noon our course began to change more to the south- west again; the wind blew very hard and some drops of rain fell. In the afternoon wc passed through a ridge, where the river is very narrow ; and close above a large cluster of small islands, where we had some difficulty to get along, the water being so much separated. We went 15 miles and a half, and encamped on the south side, on a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters killed a fine deer.
Monday 22. W^e embarked early, the weather being pleasant^^ passed some fine springs on the southern shore, and a. large island near the northern. On the south side the country is level to a good distance, but on the north the 'hills come close to the river. At breakfast our squaw informed us she had been at this place before when small. Here we got a quantity of wild onions. At half past nine, we proceeded on again; passed a large island at noon; and in the afternoon, more islands: and came to a place where Captain Clarke and his party were encamp- ed. They told us they had seen the same smoke, which we had discovered a few days ag;o, and found it had been made by the natives, who they supposed had seen some of us, and had fled, taking us for enemies. We went 17 miles and a half and encamped on an island; where we found the musketoes very bad. We saw to day several banks of snow on a mountain west of us.
Tuesday 23. A cloudy moniinc;. We embarked early, and at the same time Captain Clarke and four men went on ai^ain to endeavor to meet with some of the natives. We had rai)id water, and passed a grate number of islands. Captain Clarke and his men killed four deer
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 107
and a cabre, and left the skins and meat on the shore, where we could easily find them. The course of the river all day was nearly from the south, through a valley of 10 or 12 miles wide. The mountains are not so high nor so rocky, as those we passed. Large timber is not plenty, but there are a great quantity of small shrubs and willows. We passed a small river on the south side, and some banks of very white clay. We encamped on an island, having made 24 miles.
Wednesday 24. The morning was fine, and we early prosecuted our voyage; parsed a bank of very red earth, which our squaw told us the natives use for paint. Deer are plenty among the bushes, and one of our men killed one on the bank. We continued through the valley all day; went 19 miles and encamped on the North side.
Thursday 25. We embarked and passed on at the usual time, in a fine morning; we passed a beautiful plain on the north side, and at 2 o'clock we came to the entrance of another chain of mountains; where we took dinner and again went on. Passing through this chain we found some difficult rapids, but good water between them. This chain of mountains are not so high, nor so rocky as those passed before. Six very fine springs rise on the southern shore, about four miles above the entrance of this range. W^e went 16 miles and encamped on the North side.
Friday 26. The morning was fine and we continued our course through the mountains. There are some cedar and spruce trees on the shores, but very little of any kind on the mountains. About 1 1 o'clock we got through this range into a valley: about two came to a large island and halted on it for dinner. A rattle-snake came among our canoes in the water, of a kind different from any I had seen. It was about two feet long, of a light color, with small spots all over. One of our hunters went on ahead in the morning, and at this place killed four deer. While we remained here it became cloudy and some rain fell. At 4 o'clock we proceeded on through the valley; passed a creek on the south side, and having made 18 miles and a half, encamped on the same side, where a small mountain comes into the river.
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Saturday 27. We continued our voyage early, and had a pleasant morning; proceeded on, and at 9 o'clock got through the small mountain. At the entrance of the valley, a branch of the Missouri comes in on the south side about 60 yards wide; the current rapid but not very deep. Here we took breakfast, and having proceeded on a mile, came to another branch of the same size. There is very little difference in the size of the three branches. On the bank of the north branch we found a note Captain Clarke had left informing us, he was ahead and had gone up that branch. We went on to the point, and, as the men were much fatigued, encamped in order to rest a day or two. After we halted here, it began to rain and con- tinued three hours. About 12 o'clock Captain Clarke and his men came to our encampment, and told us they had been up both branches a considerable distance, but could discover none of the natives. There is a beautiful valley at these forks; and a good deal of timber on the branches, chiefly cotton-wood. Also currants, goose and service berries, and choak-cherries on the banks. The deer are plenty too; some of the men went out and killed several to-day. Captain Clarke was very unwell and had been so all last night. In the evening the weather became clear and we had a fine night.
Sunday 28. As this was a fine day, the men were employed in airing the baggage, dressing skins and hunt- ing. Captain Clarke still continued unwell. Our squaw informed us, that it was at this place she had been taken prisoner by the Grossventers four or five years ago. From this valley we can discover a large mountain with snow on it, towards the southwest; and expect to pass by the northwest end of it. Captain Lewis had a meridian alti- tude here, which gave 45° 22. 34. 5. north latitude. We also remained here the 29ih, which was a fine day, and the men chiefly employed in the same way. Captain Clarke is getting better.
Tuesday 30. We left our encampment at the forks, and proceeded on about 7 o'clock A. M. up the North branch. This branch is about 60 yards wide and six feet deep, with a rapid current. We passed a number of
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 109
islands. The valley continued on the South side all this day; but the spur of a mountain, about five or six miles from the forks came in close on the North side with very high cliffs of rocks. We encamped where it terminated, having made 13 miles and an half.
Wednesday 31. We set out early, and had a fine cool morning with dew. Last night Captain Lewis went on ahead, and the canoes being unable to get on to him, he was obliged to encamp out alone in this howling wilderness. We passed a small creek this morning on the South side, which empties into the river, through two or three mouths, on account of its being much dammed up by the beaver, which are very plenty. At breakfast time we came up to Captain Lewis; and having made 17 miles and three quarters, encamped on an island.
Thursday, August 1, 1805. W^e set out early in a fine morning and proceeded on till breakfast time; when Captain Lewis, myself and the two interpreters went on ahead to look for some of the Snake Indians. Our course lay across a large mountain on the North side, over which we had a very fatiguing trip of about 1 1 miles. We then came to the river again, and found it ran through a handsome valley of from six to eight miles wide. At the entrance of this valley, which is covered with small bushes, but has very little timber, we killed two elk and left the meat for the canoes to take up, as the men stood much in need of it, having no fresh provisions on hand. We crossed a small creek on the North shore, and en- camped on the same side.
Friday 2. The morning was fine and we went on at sunrise, proceeded four or five miles and crossed the river. In the middle of the day it was very warm in the valley, and at night very cold ; so much so that two blankets were scarce a sufficient covering. On each side of the valley there is a high range of mountains, which run nearly parallel, with some spots of snow on their tops. We killed a deer; went about 24 miles and encamped on the South side.
Saturday 3. A fine cool morning. We left a note for Captain Clarke, continued our route along the valley;
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and passed several fine springs that issue from the moun- tains. Currants and service berries are in abundance along this valley, and we regaled ourselves with some of the best I had ever seen. AVe went about 22 miles and encamped. The night was disagreeably cold.
Sunday 4. At sunrise we continued our march, in a fine morning; went about six miles when we came to a fork of the river; crossed the South branch and from a high knob discovered that the river had forked below us, aswe could see the timber on the North branch about six or seven miles from the South and West branches. We therefore crossed to the North branch, and finding it not navigable for our canoes, went down to the confiuence and left a note for Captain Clarke directing him to take the lefi hand branch. We then went up the North branch about ten miles and encamped on it.
Monday 5. This morning Captain Lewis thought it would be best for me and one of the interpreters to go over to the West branch, and remain there, until he and the other should go higher up the North, cross over in search of Indians and then go down and join us. At night they came to our camp, but had not seen any of the natives, nor any fresh signs.
Tuesday 6. We started early to go down to the point to see if the canoes had come up that far, and came upon the North branch about two miles above it. Here we discovered that the people in the canoes had not found the note, and with great difficulty, had proceeded five or six miles up the North branch. In their return down, one of the canoes was overturned ; a knapsack, shot-pouch and powder-horn lost, and all the rest of the loading wet. We got down to the forks about 12 o'clock, put all our baggage out to dry, and encamped for the night. Some hunters went out and killed three deer.
Wednesday 7. We remained here during the fore- noon, which was fair and clear, and where Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude, which made the latitude of this place 45° 2 53 North. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we were ready to continue our voyage. In the evening a heavy cloud came up, and we had hard thunder with
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. Ill
lio-htniiiir and rain. We went on seven miles and en- camped on the North side, when the weather cleared, and we had a fine night. The canoes came 62 miles and three quarters while we were out.
Thursday 8. We proceeded on early and had a plea- sant morning. The West branch which we went up is about 30 )'-ards wide, and the South, which wo passed, about 15 yards. Three hunters went by land to-day, and at noon had killed two deer and a goat or cabre. The river is very crooked in this valley. The hunters again went out in the afternoon and killed two more deer. There are no buffalo in this part of the country, and other game is not plenty. We went this day 19 miles.
We found out the reason why Captain Clarke did not g:3t the note left at the point, which was, that a beaver had cut down and dragged off the pole, on which 1 had fixed it.
Friday 9. We set out at sunrise, and had a fine morn- ing with some dew ; proceeded on till 9 o'clock when we halted for breakfast. Here one of the hunters came to us who had been out since the morning the canoes went up the North branch by mistake, and who had that morn- ing preceded them by land. Here also Captain Lewis and three men started to go on ahead ; and at ten we proceeded on with the canoes. The river is narrow and very crooked, and the valley continues about the same breadth. There is some timber on the mountain on the South side, and white earth or rocks appearing through the pines. At noon we halted for dinner, and hauled out one of the canoes, which had sprung a leak and caulked her.
This morning our commanding officers thought proper that the Missouri should lose its name at the confluence of the throe branches we had left on the 30th ultimo. The North branch, which we went up, they called Jef- FERSOx; the West or middle branch, Madison; the South branch, about two miles up which a beautiful spring comes in, Gallatin! and a small river above the forks they called Philosophy. Of the three branches we had just left, they called the North, Wisdom, the South, Phi-
112 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
lanthrophy, and ihc West or middle fork, which we con- tinued our voyage along, retained the name of Jefferson. We went 14 miles and encamped on the South side. Our two hunters killed but one goat.
CHAPTER XL
Saturday 10. We set out early in a line morning, and proceeded on through the valley, until breakfast lime, when we came to a place where the river passes through a mountain. This narrow passage is not more than a quarter of a mile in length. At the upper end another valley commences, but not so wide as the one below. There is no timber in the lower end of this valley; and the river very crooked, narrow, and in some places so shallow, that we were obliged to get into the water and drag the canoes along. At 1 o'clock we halted to dine, when a shower of rain came on with thunder and light- ning, and continued an hour, during which some hail fell. Two hunters were out to-day and killed but one deer. We came 13 miles and encamped on the North side. Here the valley begins to be more extensive.
Sunday 11. This morning was cloudy and we did not set out until after breakfast. Three hunters were sent out and we proceeded on about three miles, when we came to a large island, which is 3000 miles from the river Du Bois at the mouth of the Missotiri. We therefore called it 3000 mile Island. We took up the South side of it, and had difficulty in passing, the water being shallow. About two, some rain fell. Our hunters killed three deer and a goat. We went 14 miles and encamped on the North side.
Monday 12. We proceeded on at the usual time, and three hunters were again sent out. A few drops of rain fell to-day. Our hunters killed four deer; and after making 12 miles we encamped on the North side.
Tuesday 13. A cloudy morning. We set out early, through rapid water; the river being crooked and narrow,
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 113
and passed a small creek on the South side. The weather was cold during the whole of this day. We wont 16 miles and encamped in a beautiful plain on the South side.
Wednesday 14. The morning was clear and cold. We embarked after breakfast ; passed a small creek on the North side and a beautiful valley on the same side. Timber is very scarce, and only some few scattering trees along the river. Our hunters came in at noon, who had been out all day yesterday: they had killed five deer and a goat. There are a few deer and goats in this part of the country; and otter and beaver in plenty along the river, but no other kind of game that we could discover. There are some fish in the river and trout of a large size, and of the black kind. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side where we had great difficulty in pro- curing a sufficient quantity of wood to cook with.
Thursday 15. We had a fine morning and proceeded on about 8 o'clock. Having gone two miles, we came to the entrance of a mountain, where Captain Lewis and his party on the second day after their departure had taken dinner; and had left lour deer skins. At the en- trance of the mountain there are two high pillars of rocks, resembling towers on each side of the river. The mountains are not very high and do not approach so near the river as some we have passed; they are about a quarter of a mile distant, and the river meanders along between them through the bushes and is not more than 20 yards wide, and about a foot and a half deep. The water is very cold, and severe and disagreeable to the men, who are frequently obliged to wade and drag the canoes. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South side.
Friday 16. W^e did not set out till after breakfast, and while here one of the men went out and killed a fine buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the river is very narrow, crooked and shallow. This morning we passed a place where the hills come close to the river for a short distance, and then open on each side of a small valley, which, on account of the great quantity of servico 8
114 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
berries in it, we called Service-berry valley. We passed over a rapid of about a quarter of a mile, and encamped on the South side, having come 15 miles.
Saturday 17. A fme morning. We proceeded on about two miles, and discovered a number of the natives, of the Snake nation, coming along the bank on the South side. Captain Lewis had been as far as the waters of the Columbia river and met them there. We continued on about two miles further to a place where the river forks, and there halted and encamped, after much fatigue and difficulty. The water is so shallow that we had to drag the canoes, one at a time, almost all the way. The dis- tance across from this place to the waters of the Colum- bia river is about 40 miles, and the road or way said to be good. There were about 20 of the natives came over with Captain Lewis, and had the same number of horses. Here we unloaded the canoes, and had a talk with the Indians; and agreed with them that they should lend us some of their horses to carry our baggage to the Colum- bia river.
Sunday 18. A fine morning. We bought three hor- ses of the Indians. Captain Clarke and 11 more, with our interpreter and his wife, and all the Indians set out at 1 1 o'clock to go over to the Columbia. The Indians went for horses to carry our baggage, and we to search for timber to make canoes for descending the Columbia. W^e proceeded up the north branch which is the largest and longest branch of Jefferson river, through a hand- some valley about five miles wide. In this we found a number of springs and small branches, but no timber. There is plenty of grass and clover, and also some flax all along it. The Indians all except five went on ahead. We traveled 15 miles and encamped close on the branch which is about five yards wide. Here we killed two small deer. The country all around is very mountainous, with some few pine trees on the mountains. At 3 o'clock this afternoon there was a violent gust of wind, and some rain fell. In about an hour the weather became clear, and very cold, and continued cold all night.
Monday 19. A fine morning, but cold. We proceeded
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. J 15
on at 8 o'clock alonpj the valley for six miles, when the hills came more close on the branch, which here divides into three parts or other small branches, and two miles further the principal branch again forks, where the moun- tains commence with a thick grove of small pines on our left, and large rocks on our right. At 1 o'clock we dined at the head spring of the Missouri and Jefferson Rivers, about 25 miles from the place, where we had left the canoes, and from which the course is nearly west. About five miles South of us we saw snow on the top of a mountain, and in the morning there was a severe white frost: but the sun shines very warm where we now are. At 3 o'clock, we proceeded on, and at the foot of the dividing ridge, we met two Indians coming to meet us, and who appeared very glad to see us. The people of this nation instead of shalang hands as a token of friend- ship, put their arms round the neck of the person they salute. It is not more than a mile from the head spring of the Missouri to the head of the branches of the Colum- bia. We proceeded on through the mountain; passed some fine springs, and encamped about 36 miles from our camp, where the canoes are. Here we were met by a number of the natives.
Tuesday 20. A fine cool frosty morning. We set out early and traveled about four miles, to a village of the Indians on the bank of a branch of the Columbia river, about ten yards wide and very rapid- At this place there are about 25 lodges made of willow bushes. They are the poorest and most miserable nation I ever beheld; having scarcely any thing to subsist on, except berries and a few fish, which they contrive by some means, to lake. They have a great many fine horses, and nothing more; and on account of these they are much harassed by other nations. They move about in any direction where the berries are most plenty. We had a long talk with them, and they gave us very unfavorable accounts with respect to the rivers. From which we understood that they were not navigable down, and expect to perform the route by land. Here we procured a guide, and left our interpreters to go on with the natives, and assist Capt. Lewis and his party to bring on the baggage.
IIG JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Captain Clarke and our party proceeded down the river with our guide, through a valley about four miles wide, of a rich soil, but almost without timber. There are high mountains on both sides, with some pine trees on them. Wc went about eight miles and encamped by a fine spring. One of our men remained behind at the villagij to buy a horse, and did not join us this evening. Five of the Indians came and stayed with us during the night. They told us that they were sometimes reduced to such want, as to be obliged to cat their horses.
Wednesday 21. About 7 o'clock in the morning we continued our journey down the valley, and came to a few lodges of Indians where our guide lives. We re- mained here about two hours, during which time a num- ber of Indians passed us, going to fish. We proceeded on the way the Indians had gone; and one of our men went with theni to the fishing place. The valley becomes very narrow here, and a largo branch of the river comes in a short distance below. Hero we had to ascend high ground, the bottom is so narrow; and continued on the high ground about six miles when we came again to the river, where a fine branch flows in, the valley is four or five miles wide. In this branch we shot a salmon about six pounds weight. We traveled 20 miles this day, and encamped at a place where the mountains come close to the river. In the valley through which we passed and all along the river, there are cherries, currants and other small fruit. The man who had remained behind at the first village and the other who had gone with the Indians to their fishing place, both joined us here. The Indians gave them five salmon to bring to us: and he that had stayed for a horse, brought one wiih him. At this place the river is about 70 yards wide.
Thursday 22. The morning was fine, with a great white frost. We began our journey at 7 o'clock; and having traveled about a mile, crossed a branch of the river. Here the mountains come so close on the river, we could not get through the narrows, and had to cross a very high mountain about 3 miles over, and then struck the river again, where there is a small bottom and one
113 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
lofjgc of the natives in it, gathering berries, haws and cherries for winter food. We soon had to ascend another hirge mountain, and had to proceed in the same way until we crossed four of them, when we came to a large creek, where there is a small bottom and three lodges of Indians. Three of our men having gone through the bottom to hunt, camo first upon the lodges which greatly alarmed the unhappy natives, who all fell a wce])ing and began to run off; but the party coming up Avith the guide relieved them from their fears. Thev then received us kindlv and gave us berries and fish to eat. We remained with them about two hours and gave them some presents. Those of the natives, who are detached in small parties, appear to live better, and to have a larger supply of pro- visions, than those who live in large villages. The peo- ple of these three lodges have gathered a quantity of sun- flower seed, and also of the lambs-quarter, which they pound and mix witlj service berries, and make of the composition a kind of bread; which appears capable of sustaining life for some time. On this bread and the fish they take out of the river, these people, who appear to be the most wretched of the human species, chiefly sub- sist. They gave us some dried salmon, and we proceed- ed down the river; but with a great deal of difficulty: the mountains being so close, steep and rocky. The river here is about 80 yards wid(\ and a continual rapid, but not deep. We went about 15 miles to day, and encamp- ed on a small island, as there was no other level place near. Game is scarce, and we killed nothing since the 18th but one deer; and our stock of provisions is exhaus- ted.
Friday 23. W^o proceeded down the river through dreadful narrows, where the rocks were in some places breast high, and no path or trail of any kind. This morning we killed a goose, and badly wounded a large buck in the water. One of our sergeants is very unwell. We went on three miles, when Captain Clarke did not think proper to proceed further with the horses, until he should go forward and examine the pass. So we halted on a small flat and breakfasted on some fish the natives
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 119
had given us. Captain Clarke, our guide, and three men then went on. Another Indian who had come on from the last Indian camp remained with us. We had yet seen no limber larf^e enough to make canoes. Two of the hunters went in search of the buck, which had been wounded; and the rest staid at the camp to fish. In the afternoon the men came in from hunting the wounded deer, but could not find liim. They killed three prairie hens, or pheasants. At night the sergeant who had been sick, became better. We caught some small fish in the night. The natives take their fish by spearing them; their spears for this purpose are poles with bones fixed to the ends of them, with which they strike the fish. They have but four guns in the nation, and catch goats and some other animals by running them down with horses. The dresses of the women are a kind of shifts made of the skins of these goats and mountain sheep, which come down to the middle of the leg. Some of them have robes, but others none. Some of the men have shirts and some are without any. Some also have robes made of beaver and buffalo skins; but there are few of the former. I saw one made of ground hog skins.
Saturday 24. We had a pleasant mornirg and some of the men went out to hunt. The river at this f lace is so confined by the mountains that it is not more than 20 yards wide, and very rapid. The mountains on the sides are not less than 1000 feet high and very steep. There are a few pines growing on them. We caught some small fish to day, and our hunters killed five prairie fowls. These were all we had to subsist on. At 1 o'clock Capt. Clarke and his party returned, after having been down the river about 12 miles. They found it was not possible to go down either by land or water, without much risk and trouble. The water is so rapid and the bed of the river so rocky, that going by water appeared impractica- ble; and the mountains so amazingly high, steep and rocky, that it seemed impossible to go along the river by land. Our guide speaks of a way to sea, by going up the south fork of this river, getting on the mountains that way, and then turning to the south v/est again. Captain
12D JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Clarke therefore wrote a letter to Captain Lewis, and dis- patched a man on horseback to meet him; and we all turned back up the river again, poor and uncomfortable enough, as we had nothing to eat, and there is no game. We proceeded up about three miles, and supperless went to rest for the night.
Sunday 25. Wc set out early and had a fine morn- ing; passed the Indian camp, where they gave us a litile drivjd salmon, and proceeded back again over the moun- tains. Some hunters went on ahead and about 4 o'clock we got ov :r the four mountains, and encamped in the valley. Two men went to hunt, and all the rest to fish. We soon caught as many small fish as made, with two salmon our guide got from some Indians, a comfortable supper. At dark our hunters came in and had killed but one beaver.
Monday 26. We had again a pleasant morning; and four hunters went on early ahead, and one man to look for the horses. Wc breakfasted on the beaver and a salmon, which had been saved from supper the preceding evening. Th3 man, who had gone for the horses, having returned without finding them, four or live more went out, and our guide immediately found them. We then about 10 o'clock, proceeded on to the forks, where we found our hunters; but they had killed nothing. So we went up to a small village of the natives, got some fish from them, and lodged there all night.
Tuesday 27. A fine morning with frost; and eight of us went out to hunt. I observed some flax growing in the bottoms on this river, but saw no clover or timothy, as I had seen on the Missouri and Jefferson rivers. Th^rj is a kind of wild snge or hyssop, as high as a man's head, full of branches and leaves, which grows in these bottoms, with shrubs of different kinds. In the evening we all came in again, and had killed nothing but a fish. We got some more from the natives, which we subsisted on. We lodged here again all night, but heard nothing from Captain Lewis.
Wednesday 28. The morning again was pleasant,
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. ICl
and I went on to the upper village, where 1 found Capt. Lewis and his party buying horses. They had got 23 which with two we had, made in the whole 25. 1 then returned to our camp, a distance of 15 miles, and arrived there late. 1 found the weather very cold for the season.
Thursday 29. There was a severe white frost this morning. Captain Clarke and all the men except myself and another who remained to keep camp and prepare packsaddles, went uj) to Captain Lewis's cam[). While I lay here to day, one of the natives shewed me their method of producing fire, which is somewhat curious. They have two sticks ready for the operation, one about nine and the other eighteen inches long: the short slick they lay down flat and rub the end of the other upon it in a perpendicular direction for a few minutes; and the friction raises a kind of dust, which in a short time takes fire. These people make willow baskets so close and to such perfection as to hold water, for which purpose they make use of them. They make much use of the sun- flower and lambs-quarter seed, as before mentioned; which with berries and wild cherries pounded together, compose the only bread they have any knowledge of, or in use. The fish they take in this river are of excellent kinds, especially the salmon, the roes of which when dried and pounded make the best of soup.
Friday 30. We remained here all dav, and in the evening the whole of the corps came down within a mile of our camp, and remained there all night, being a good place for grass.
Saturday 31. They all came down to our camp, and we proceeded on with 27 horses and one mule. Our old guide after consulting with the rest of the Indians, thought it was better to go along the north side of the Columbia, than on the south side. We therefore proceeded down, the same way Captain Clarke had been before, 30 miles, and then turned up a creek that comes in from the north, and encamped on it about three miles and a half from the mouth. Two hunters had gone on ahead this morning, and at night joined us, having killed one deer. The first
122 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
cost of iliG articles, which had been given for each horse, did not amount to more than from three to five dollars; so that the whole of them only cost about one hundred dol- lars.
CHAPTER XII.
Sunday, September 1, 1805. Wc set out early in a fine morning, and traveled on nearly a west course. We found here the greatest quantity and best service berries, I had ever seen before; and abundance of choak-cherries. There is also a small bush grows in this part of the coun- try, about six inches high, which bears a bunch of small purple berries. Some call it mountain holly; the fruit is of an acid taste. We are much better supplied with water than I expected; and crossed several tine springs among the mountains through which we pass. At noon some rain fell, and the day continued cloudy. About the middle of the day Capt. Clarke's blackman's feet became so sore that he had to ride on horseback. At 3 o'clock we came to a creek, where there was fine grass and we halted to let our horses cat. There are a great number of fish in this creek. After we halted the weath- er became cloudy, and a considerable quantity of rain fell. We therefore concluded to remain where we were all night, having come this day 18 miles. Our hunters killed a deer, and we caught five fish.
Monday 2. The morning was cloudy. W^e set out early; proceeded up the creek, and passed some parts closely timbered with spruce and pine. We went on with diflicuUy on account of the bushes, the narrowness of the way and stones that injured our horses feet, they thev beinij without shoes. In the forenoon we killed S(3me pheasants and ducks, and a small squirrel. In the afternoon we had a good deal of rain, and the worst road (if road it can be called) that was ever traveled. The creek is become small and the hills come close in upon
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 123
tho banks of it, covered thick Avith standing timber and fallen trees; so that in some places Ave were obliged to go up the sides of the hills, which are very steep, and then down again in order to get along at all. In going up these ascents the horses would sometimes fall backwards, which injured them very much; and one was so badly hurt that the driver was obliged to leave his load on the side of one of the hills. In the low ground there are most beautiful tall strait pine trees of different kinds, except of white pine. Game is scarce; and a small (juantity of dried salmon, which we got from the natives is almost our whole stock of provisions. A son of our guide joined us to day and is going on. We went 13 miles and encamped; but some of the men did not come up till late at night.
Tuesday 3. The morning of this day was cloudy and cool. Two men went back with a horse to biing on the load, which had been left behind last ni<2;ht; and we breakfasted on the last of our salmon, and waited their return. Two huntei^ were sent on ahead, and on the return of the two men, who had been sent back, we pur- sued our journey up the creek, which still continued fatiguing ahnost beyond description. The country is very mountainous and thickly timbered; mostly Avi;h spruce pme. Having gone nine miles we halted for dinner, which was composed of a small portion of flour we had along and the last of our pork, which was but a trifle: Our hunters had not killed any thing. We staid here about two hours, during which time some rain fell and the weather was extremely cold for the season. We then went on about three miles over a large mountain, to the head of another creek, and encamped there for the night. This was not the creek our guide wished to have come upon ; and to add to our misfortunes we had a cold even- insT with rain.
Wednesday 4. A considerable quantity of snow fell last nio^ht, and the morninsf was cloudv. After eaiinof a few grains of parched corn, we set out at 8 o'clock; crossed a large mountain and hit on tho creek and small valley, which were wished for by our guide. We killed
124 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
some pheasants on our way, and were about to make use of the last of our flour, when to our great joy, one of our hunters killed a fine deer. So we dined upon that and proceeded down a small valley about a mile wide, with a rich black soil; in which there are a great quantity of sweet roots and herbs,such as sweet myrrh, angelica and several other, that the natives make use of, and of the names of which I am unacquainted. There is also tim- othy grass growing in it; and neither the valley nor the hills are so thickly timbered, as the mountains we had lately passed. What timber there is, is mostly pitch pine. We kept down the valley about five miles, and came to the Tussapa band of the Flathead nation of Indians, or a part of them. We found them encamped on the creek and we encamped with them. *
Thursday 5. This was a fine morning with a great white frost. The Indian do&s are so huno;rv and raven- ous, that they eat four or five pair of our moccasons last night. We remained here all day, and rccuitcd our horses to 40 and three colts; and made four or five of this nation of Indian chiefs. They are a very friendly peo- ple; have plenty of robes and skins for covering, and a large stock of horses, some of which are very good; but they have nothing to cat, but berries, roots and such arti- cles of food. This band is on its way over to the Mis- souri or Yellow-Stone river to hunt buffalo. They are the whitest Indians I ever saw.
Friday 6. A cloudy morning. We exchanged some of our horses, that were fatigued, with the natives; about 12 o'clock some rain fell; and we prepared to move on. At one we started, when the Indians also set out. We proceeded over a mountain to a creek, and went down the creek, our course being northwest; found the country mountainous and poor; and the game scarce. Having
* Captain Clarke in his letter to liis brother, calls them the Olcnclislioot band of the Tiicknapax. It is of no very great im- portance, at present, to know by what names tlie several tribes and bands arc distintriiished; and jMr. Gass says that without an inter- preter it was very diiiicult to ascertain them with any degree of certainty.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 125
traveled about seven miles we encamped. Four hunters had been out to day, but killed nothing; we therefore supped upon a small quantity of corn we had yet left.
Saturday 7. We set out early in a cloudy cool morn- ing; and our hunters went on as usual. We proceeded down the creek, and in our way we were met by a hun- ter, who had not come in last night, and who had lost his horse. We halted at 12 o'clock, and one of the hunters killed two deer; which was a subject of much joy and congratulation. Here we remained to dine, and some rain fell. On the south of this place there are very high mountains covered with snow and timber, and on the north prairie hills. After staying here two hours we pro- ceeded on down the creek; found the country much the same as that which we had passed through in the fore- noon; and having traveled about 20 miles since the morning, encamped for the night. The valley is become more extensive, and our creek has increased to a con- siderable river. Some rain fell in the afternoon, and our hunters killed two cranes on our way.
Sunday 8. The morning was wet, and we proceeded on over some beautiful plains. One of our hunters had remained out all night, at noon we halted and they all came in, having killed an elk and a deer. At two we proceeded on again, and had a cold, wet and disagreeable afternoon, but our road or way was level along the valley. Having traveled 20 miles, we encamped and our hunters came in, one of whom had killed a deer, and another had caught two mares and a colt, which he brought with him.
Monday 9. The morning was fair, but cool; and we continued our journey down the river. The soil of the valley is poor and gravelly; and the high snow-topped mountains are still in view on our left: Our course gen- erally north a few degrees west. We halted at noon: on our way the hunters had killed three wild geese; so we have plenty of provisions at present. At 2 o'clock we again went forward, and crossed over the Flathead river, about 100 yards wide, and which we called Clarke's liver; passed through a close timbered bottom of about two miles, and again came into beautiful plains. The timber
]2G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
on this bottom is pitch pine. We traveled 19 miles and encamped on a large creek, which comes in from the south. Our hunters this day killed three deer.
Tuesday 10. We remained here all this day, which was clear and pleasant, to let our horses rest, and to take an observation. At night our hunters came in, and had killed five deer. With one of the hunters, three of the Flathead Indians came to our camp. They informed us that the rest of their band was over on the Columbia river, about five or six days' journey distant, with pack-horses; that two of the Snake nation had stolen some of their horses, and that they were in pursuit of them. We gave them some presents, and one stayed to go over the mountains with us; the other two continued their pursuit.
Wednesday 11. This was a fine morning, and we went out to collect our horses, in order to renew our journey, and found all but one. Captain Lewis had a meridian altitude that wave 46^ 48. 28. 8. north latitude. In the bottoms here, there are a great quantity of cher- ries. The mountains are not so high, as at some distance back. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon the horse was found, and we proceeded on up the creek nearly a west course, through small bottoms. We went about six miles and e.icanpjd; wben our hunters came in but had killed nothing. The country is poor and mountainous.
Thursday 12. We started early on our journey and had a fine morning. Having traveled two miles we reached the mountains which are very steep; but the road over them pretty good, as it is much traveled by the natives, \vho come across to the Flathead river to gather cherries and berries. Our hunters in a short time killed four deer. At noon we halted at a branch of the creek, on the banks of which arc a number of strawberry vines, haws, and service berry bushes. At two we proceeded on over a large mountain, where there is no water, and we could find no place to encamp until late at night, when we arrived at a small branch, and 'encamped by it, in a very inconvenient place, having come 23 miles.
Friday 13. A cloudy morning. Captain Lewis's horse could not be found ; but some of the men wore left
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 127
to hunt for him and we proceeded on. When we had gone two miles, we came to a most beautiful warm spring, the water of which is considerably above blood-heat; and I could not bear my hand in it without uneasiness. There are so many paths leading to and from this spring, that our guide took a wrong one for a mile or two, and we had bad traveling across till we got into the road again. At noon we halted. Game is scarce; and our hunters killed nothing since yesterday morning; though four of the best were constantly out, and every one of them furnished whh a good horse. While we remained here. Captain Lewis and the men, who had been left with him, came up; but had not found the horse. At 2 o'clock we proceeded on again over a mountain, and in our way found a deer, which our hunters had killed and hung up. In a short time we met with them, and Captain Lewis sent two back to look for the horse. We passed over a divi- ding ridge to the waters of another creek, and after tra- veling 12 miles we encamped on the creek, up which there are some prairies or plains.
Saturday 14. We set out early in a cloudy morning; passed over a largo mountain, crossed Stony creek, about 30 yards wide, and then went over another large moun- tain, on which I saw service-berry bushes hanging full of fruit; but not yet ripe, owing to the coldness of the climate on these mountains: 1 also saw a number of other shrubs, which bear fruit, but for which I know no names. There are black elder and bore-tree, pitch and spruce pine all growing together on these mountains. Being here unable to find a place to halt at, where our horses could feed, we went on to the junction of Stony creek, with another large creek, which a short distance down becomes a considerable river, and encamped for the night, as it rained and was disagreeable traveling. The two hunters, that had gone back here joined us with Captain Lewis's horse, but none of the hunters killed any thing except two or three pheasants; on which, without a miracle it was impossible to feed 30 hungry men and upwards, besides some Indians. So Captain Lewis gave out some portable soup, which he had along, to be used
128 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
in cases of necessity. Some of the men did not relish this soup, and agreed to kill a coh; \vhich they immedi- ately did, and set about roasting it; and which appeared to me to be good eating. This day we traveled seven- teen miles.
CHAPTER XIII.
Sunday 15. Having breakfasted on colt we moved on down the river three miles, and again took the moun- tains. In going up, one of the horses fell, and required eight or ten men to assist him in getting up again. We contin- ued our march to 2 o'clock when we halted at a spring and dined on portable soup and a handful of parched corn. We then proceeded on our journey over the mountain to a high point, where, it being dark, w^e were obliged to encamp. There was here no water; but a bank of snow answered as a substitiue; and we supped upon soup.
Monday IG. Last night about 12 o'clock it began to snow. We renewed our march early, though the morn- ing was very disagreeable, and proceeded over the most terrible mountains I ever beheld: It continued snowing until 3 o'clock P. M. when we halted, took some more soup, and went on till we came to a small stream where we encamped for the night. Here we killed another colt and supped on it. The snow fell so thick, and the day was so dark, that a person could not see to a distance of 200 yards. In the night and during the day the snow fell about 10 inches deep.
Tuesday 17. Our horses scattered so much last night, that they were not collected until noon, at which time we began our march again. It was a hne day with warm sunshine, which melted the snow very fast on the south sides of the hills, and made the traveling very fatiguing and uncomfortable. We continued over high desert mountains, where our hunters could fmd no game, nor
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 129
signs of any except a bear's track which they observed to day. At dark we hailed at a spring on the top of a mountain; killed another colt, and encamped there all night.
Wednesday 18. This was a clear cold frosty morn- ing. All our horses except one were collected early: Six hunters went on ahead; one man to look for the horse; and all the rest of us proceeded on our journey over the mountains, which are very high and rough. About twelve we passed a part where the snow was off, and no appearance that much had lately fallen. At three we came to snow again, and halted to take some soup, which we made with snow water, as no other could be found. Here the man, who had been sent for the horse came up, but had not found him. Except on the sides of hills where it has fallen, the country is closely timber- ed with pitch and spruce pine, and what some call balsam- fir. We can see no prospect of getting off these desert mountains yet, except the appearance of a deep cove on each side of the ridge we arc passing along. We remain- ed here an hour and a half, and then proceeded on down a steep mountain, and encamped after traveling 18 miles. We had great difficulty in getting water, being obliged to go half a mile for it down a very steep precipice.
Thursday 19. Our hunters did not join us last night, which was disagreeably cold. About eight this morning we set out, and proceeded on in our way over the moun- tains; the sun shining warm and pleasant. W'e traveled a west course, and about 12 o'clock halted at a spring to take a little more soup. The snow is chiefly gone except on the north points of the high mountains. At two P. M. we again went on, and descended a steep mountain into a cove on our left hand, where there is a large creek, which here runs towards the east. The hills on each side, along which the trail or path passes, are very steep. One of our horses fell down the precipice about 100 feet, and was not killed, nor much hurt: the reason was, that there is no bottom below, and the precipice, the only bank, which the creek has, therefore the horse pitched into the water, without meeting with any intervening 9
130 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
object, which could materially injure him. We made 17 miles this day and encamped on a small branch of the creek. Having heard nothing from our hunters, we again supped upon some of our portable soup. The men are becoming lean and debilitated, on account of the scarcity and poor quality of the provisions on which we subsist: our horses' feet are also becoming very sore. We have, however, some hopes of getiing soon out of this horrible mountainous desert, as we have discovered the appearance of a valley or level part of the country about 40 miles ahead. When this discovery was made there was as much joy and rejoicing among the corps, as happens amor-g passengers at sea, who have experienced a dan- gerous and protracted voyage, when they first discover land on the long looked for coast.
Friday 20. It was late before our horses were collec- ted, but the day was fme; and at 9 o'clock we continued our march. Having proceeded about a mile, we came to a small glade, where our hunters had found a horse, and had killed, dressed and hung him up. Captain Clarke, who had gone forward with the hunters, left a note informing us that he and they intended to go on to the valley or level country ahead, as there was no chance of killing any game in these desert mountains. We loaded the meat and proceeded along the mountains. At noon we stopped and dined, on our horse flesh: here we discov- ed that a horse, having Captain Lewis's clothes and bag- gage on him, had got into the bushes while we were load- ing the meat, and was left behind. One of the men therefore was sent back, but returned without fmdinghim. Two other men with a horse were then sent back, and we continued our march along a ridge, where there are rocks, that appear to be well calculated for making millstones; and some beautiful tall cedars among the spruce pine. Night came on before we got off this ridge, and we had iimch difficulty in finding water. The soil on the western side of the mountains appears much better than on the east; and not so rocky. We can see the valley ahead, but a great ways off.
Saturday 21. The morning was pleasant; but it was
132 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
late before we got our horses collected. About 10 o'clock we were ready to start ; and passed along the ridge with a great deal of difficulty and fatigue, our march being much impeded by the fallen timber. A great portion of the timber through which we passed along this ridge is dead, and a considerable part iallen; and our horses are weak and much jaded. One of them got into a small swamp, and wet a bale of merchandize. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we got down the mountain to a creek, which runs nearly southwest. This course we suppose is a very good one for us. We went down this creek about a mile, and encamped on it for the night in a small rich bottom. Here we killed a duck and two or three pheasants; and supped upon them and the last of our horse meat. We also killed a wolf and cat it. The hunters did not join us this evening, nor the two men who went to look for the horse.
Sunday 22. This was a fine warm day. About 9 o'clock we continued our route over a ridge about a west course, upon the top of which there is a handsome small prairie; where we met one of our hunters with a supply of roots, berries and some fish, which he procured from another band of the Hathead nation of Indians. Caj)- tain Clarke and the hunters had arrived on the 20th at the encampment or lodges of these Indians which are in a beautiful prairie, about eight or nine miles from this place. The roots they use are made into a kind of bread; which is good and nourishing, and tastes like that some- times made of pumkins. We remained here about an hour and then proceeded on again, down the ridge along a very rough way; and in the evening arrived in a fine large valley, clear of these dismal and horrible moun- tains. Here our two men overtook us; who had found the lost horse and clothing, but on their way to us lost both the horses. The Indians belonging to this band, received us kindly, appeared pleased to see us, and gave us such provisions as they had. We were at a loss for an interpreter, none of our interpreters being able to understand them. Captain Clarke met us here: he had been over at the river, and found the distance 18 mile*
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 133
and a good road from this place. lie thinks wo will bo able to take the water again at the place he had been at; and where he left five hunters, as there was some game about the river in that quarter.
Monday 23. The morning was warm and pleasant. We stayed here some time to procure provisions from the natives, for which we gave them in exchange a number of small articles. The provisions wliich we got consist- ed of roots, bread and fish. Their bread is made of roots which they call comas, and which resemble onions in shape, but are of a sweet taste. This bread is manufac- tured by steaming, pounding and baking the roots on a kiln they have for the purpose. About 4 o'clock wo renewed our journey, and went two miles to another small village, through a beautiful rich plain, in which these roots grow in abundance. We halted at the second village all night and got some more provisions. About dark a shower of rain fell.
Tuesday 24. The morning was fine, and about nine o'clock we set forward on our march towards the river, all but one man who had gone back to look for the horses and another who had remained at the first villacre. The men are generally unwell, owing to the change of diet. The valley is level and lightly timbered with pine and spruce trees. The soil is thin except m some small plains, where it is of the first quality. The adjacent country appears much the same; except that on the river it is broken with hills and some rocks. In the valley there are great quantities of service-berry bushes. In the evening we arrived at the camp of our hunters on a river about 100 yards broad, a branch of the Columbia. The natives say it is two days march to the great river. We encamped on a small island with our hunters who had killed five deer, which was a very pleasing circum- stance to us; as the Indian provisions did not agree with us. Captain Clarke gave all the sick a dose of Rush's Pills, to see what effect that would have. We found some of the natives here upon the river fishing.
Wednesday 25. A fine, pleasant, warm morning.
134 JOURNAL OF LEWI.S AND CLARKE
Tho hiintors went out rarl"y and Capt.iin Clarke rode out to see if there were any trees to be found large enough for canoes. The men in general appear to be getting much better; but Caj)t:iin Lowis is very sick and taking medicine; and myself and two or three of the men are vet ver\- unwelL The climate here is warm ; and th<; heat to day was as great as we had experienced at anv time during the summer. The water also is soft and \varm, and perliaps causes our indispasition more than imy thing else. In the evening Captain Clarke returned to camp, having discovered a })lace about five or six miles down the river, where a lai^c branch comes in on the north side that will furnish timber large enough for our purpose. Our hunters also came in, and hail killed nothing but a small })anther and a pheasant. The man who had remained at the first village came up.
Thursday 2(j. The morning was fine; and at 9 o'clock we left our camp; proceeded down the river about five miles to the forks; and pitched our camp in a handsome small bottom opposite the point. A number of the natives came down in small canoes, and encamped close to us, for the purpose of fishing; and while we were «'ncain[>ing we saw a small raft coming down the north fork loaded with fish. There ai)pears to be a kind of slieep in this country, besides the Ibex or mountain sheep, and which have wool on. I saw some of the skins, which the natives had, with wool four inches long, and as fine, white and soft as any I had ever seen. 1 also saw a butralo robe with its wool or fur on as fine and soft as that of a beaver. Captain Lewis procured this, which we considered a curiosity, in exchange for another buffalo robe.
This band of the Flailieads have a great manv beads and other articb's, which thev say they got from white men at the mouth of this river; or where the salt water is. They have a large stock of horses. Their buffalo robes and other skins they chiefly procure on the Missouri, when they go over to hunt, as there are no buffalo in this part of the country and very little other game. The most of the men of this band are at present on a war
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 13*
expedition against some nation to the northwest, that had killed some of their people; as we understood in our im- perfect communications with them. We arranged our camp and made preparations for making canoes.
Friday 27. A fine warm morning. All the men, who were able were employed in making canoes. About 10 o'clock the man came in who had gone to look for the horses, he had found one of th^m and killed a deer. I feel much relieved from my indisposition.
In the evening the graater part of the war party came in, and some of the principal men came down to our camp. We could not understand what ih^y had done, as we could only convers3 by signs. Medals were given by the Commanding Offic3rs, to three or four of them as leading men of their nation; and they remained about our camp. The river below the fork is about 200 yards wide; the water is clear a3 crystal, from two to five feet deep, and abounding with salmon of an excellent quality. The bottom of the river is stony and ihe banks chiefly composed of a round hard species of stone.
Saturday 28. We had a pleasant morning and all hands, that were able, employed at the canoes. Game is very scarce and our hunters unable io kill any meat. We are therefore obliged to live on fish and roots, that we procure from the natives; and which do not appear a sui- table diet for us. Salt also is scarce without which fish is but poor and insipid. Our hunters killed nothing to day.
Sunday 29. A fine day; all our hunters went out., and all the men able to work, were employed at the Canoes. At noon two of our hunters came in with three deer; a very welcome sight to the most of us. Five or six of the men continue unwell.
Monday 30. The weather continued pleasant; and our hunters killed a deer.
Tuesday, October 1, 1805. This was a fine pleasant warm day. All the men are now able to work; but the greater number are very weak. To save them from hard labor, we have adopted the Indian method of burning out the canoes.
136 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Wednesday 2. Two men wore sent to ihe Indian village to purchase some provisions as our hunters do not kill enough for us to subsist on. And least the Indian provisions should not agree with us, we killed one of our horses,
On the third, the men were employed as usual; on the morning of the fourth there was a white frost, after it a fine day. In the evening our men returned, with a good supply of such provisions as the natives have.
Saturday 5. Having got pretty well forward in our canoe making, we collected all our horses and branded them, in order to leave them with the Indians, the old chief having promised that they should be well taken care of. In the evening we got two of our canoes into the water.
During the sixth most of the hands were engaged at the other canoes; and we buried our saddles and some am- munition. The morning of the seventh was pleasant, and we put the last of our canoes into the water; loaded them, and found that they carried all our baggage with conven- ience. We had four large ones; and one small one, to look ahead. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon we began our voyage down the river, and found the rapids in some places Very dangerous. One of our canoes s))rung a leak. We therefore halted and mended her, after going 20 miles. The hills come close on the river on both sides; where there are a few pine trees. Back from the river the tops of the hills, to a great distance are prairie land; and the country level.
Tuesday 8. At 9 o'clock in a fme morning we con- tinued our voyage down the river: passed three islands and several rapids; and at noon stopped at some Indian lodges, of which there are a great many along the river. At two we proceeded on again. In the evening, in pass- infT ihroucrh a rapid, I had my canoe stove, and she sunk. Fortunately the water was not more than waist deep, so our lives and baggage were saved, though the latter was wet. We halted "and encamped here to repair the canoe, after coming 10 miles. At this place there are some lod- ges of the natives on both sides of the river; a number of
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 137
whom keep about us, and we get some fish from them. Two chiefs of the upper village joined us here, and pro- posed to go on with us, until we should meet with white people; which they say will be at no great distance.
Wednesday 9. We stayed here during the whole of this day, which was very pleasant, and repaired our canoe. In the evening we got her completed and all the baggage dry. Here our old Snake guide deserted and took his son with him. I suspect he was afraid of being cast away passing the rapids. At dark one of the squaws, who keep about us, took a crazy fit, and cut her arms from the wrists to the shoulders, with a flint; and the natives had great trouble and difficulty in getting her pacified. We have some Frenchmen, who prefer dog-flesh to fish; and they here got two or three dogs from the Indians. All the country around is high prairie, or open plains.
Thursday 10. We had a fine morning; embarked early, and passed over some very bad rapids. In passing over one, a canoe sprung a leak, but did not sink; though the greater part of the loading was wet; and we had to halt and dry it. We stopped a short distance above the junction of this with another large river. The natives call this eastern branch Koos-koos-ke, and the western Ki-mo-ee-nem. Yesterday evening I had a fit of the ague, and have been very unwell to day; so much so that 1 am unable to steer my canoe. In about two hours we continued our voyage again; we found the southwest branch very large, and of a goslin-green color. About a mile below the confluence we halted on the north side and encamped for the night, as the wind blew so hard we could not proceed. W^e came 20 miles to day.
Friday 11. We set out early in a fine morning; pro- ceeded on about six miles, and halted at some lodges of the natives, where we got fish and several dogs. We continued here about an hour and then went on. No accident happened to day though we passed some bad rapids. In the evening we stopped at some Indian camps and remained all night, having come 30 miles. Here we got more fish and dogs. Most of our people having been accustomed to meat, do not relish the fish, but pre-
138 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
for dog meat; wliich, when well cooked, tastes very well, Here we met an Indian of anotlier nation, who informed us we could get to the falls in four days: wliich 1 presume are not very hiarh as the salmon come ahovc them in abundance. The country on both sides is high dry ])rairio |)lains without a stick of timber. There is no wood of any kind to be seen except a few small willows along the shore; so that it is with difhcully we can get enouifh to cook with. The hills on the river are not verv high, but rocky; the rocks of a dark color. The bed and shores of the river are very stony; and the stones of a round smooth kind.
Saturdry 12. \Ve had a fine morning and proceeded on early. Two of the Flathead chiefs remained on board with us, and two of their men went with the stranger in a small canoe, and acted as pilots or guides. We saw some ducks and a few geese, but did not kill any of them. There is no four footed game of any kind near this part of the river, that we could discover; and we saw no birds of any kind, but a few hawks, eagles and crows. At noon we halted, cooked and eat some fish, and then proceeded on. The country and river this day is mucii the same in appearance as that we passed yesterday. A little before sunset we came to a bad rapid, which we did not wish to pass at night, so we encamped above on the north side, having made 30 miles.
Some of the Flathead nation of Indians live all along the river this far down. There arc not more than four lodges in a place or village, and these small camps or villages arc eight or ten miles apart: at each camp there are five or six small canoes. Their summer lodges are made of willows and flags, and their winter lodges of split pine, almost like rails, which they bring down on rafts to this part of the river where there is no timber.
Sunday 13. This was a cloudy wet morning, and we did not set out till 11 o'clock: we then proceeded with two canoes at a time over the rapids, which arc about two miles in lenmhiand in about two hours "oi all over safe. We then went on again and passed more bad rapids, but got through safe. In the afternoon the weather cleared
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 139
nnd we had a fine evening. Having gone 23 miles we encamped on the North side. The country continues much the same, all high dry prairie. One handsome creek comes in on the south side.
Monday 14. We emharked early in a fine clear cool morning; passed some rapids; and at eleven came to one very had, but we got over without injury. We saw some geese aiid ducks this forenoon and killed some of the ducks. About 1 o'clock a canoe hit a rock, and part of her sunk, and a number of the things floated out. With the assistance of the other canoes all the men n;ot safe to shore; but the baggage was wet, and some articles were lost. We halted on an island to dry the baggage, having come 14 miles.
CHAPTER XIV.
Tuesday 15. This day was fine, clear and pleasant; and we continued here until the afternoon to dry our baggage that had been wet yesterday. The natives have great quantities of tlsh deposited on this island- * At 3 o'clock P. M. we got all our effects on board and proceeded on. Passed down a beautiful part of the river; and killed some geese and ducks. This river in general is very handsome, except at the rapids, where it is risking both life and pro- perty to pass; and even these rapids, when the bare \'iew or prospect is considered distinct from the advantages of
* Immense numbers of salmon must ascend the western rivers every summer from the Pacific, and constitute a chief article in the food of the natives. Mr. M'Kenzie informs us that in the river, by which he arrived at the ocean, where it empties itself four or five hundred miles nortliwest of the mouth of the Columbia, the salmon are so abundant, that the natives have a constant and plen- tiful supply of that excellent fish. He also on his return states, under the date of the 6th and 7lh of Au^st, that the salmon in the waters of the Columbia were driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed to be covered with the fins of them.
140 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
navijTaiion, may add to its beauty, by interposing variety and scones of romantic frrandeur where there is so much uniformity in the appearance of the country. We went 18 miles this evening and halted at an old Indian camp on the north side, where we had great difficulty in procur- ing wood to cook with, as none at all grows in this part of the country.
Wednesday 16. We had a fine mornins: and embark- ed early; proceeded on about three miles, when one of our canoes run upon some rocks in a rapid, but by unloading another canoe and sending it to her assistance, we got all safe to land, and then continued our voyage. About 1 o'clock we came to another rapid, where all hands carried a load of the baggage by land about a mile, and then took the canoes over the rapids, two at a time, and in that way we got them all down safe and proceeded on. Having gone 21 miles we arrived at the great Columbia river, which comes in from the northwest. * W^e found here a number of natives, of whose nations we have not yet found out the names, ^^'e encamped on the point between the two rivers. The country all round is level, rich and beautiful, but without timber.
* The size, course and appearance of this great river, seem to con- firm beyond a doubt the opinion of Mr. M'Kcnzie, who supposed that the large river, into which the branch he descended on tlie west side of the Rocky Mountains, liaving its source in these mountains near that of the Unjigah or Peace river, discliarges its waters into the large river in latitude about 54'-' nortli, and longitude 122'*' west from London, or 47"^ west from Philadelphia, was the Columbia. The information he obtained from the Indians respecting this river before he left the Unjigah was, "that it was a large river and run towards the mid-day sun; but did not empty itself into the sea." This opinion of these natives at a distance, with respect to its not emptying itself into the sea, must have arisen chiefly from what they had heard of its course, which is east of south and nearly par- allel to the coast of the Pacific, and of the great distance it contin- ued to run in that direction. The accounts he received after arriv- ing at it, ihrre called the Great river, or Tacoutche Tesse, also stated that it ran towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as the natives said they had been informed, white people were building houses. Mr. M'Kenzic having descended the river some distance, prevailed on a chief to delineate a sketch of the country on a largo piece of barkj in wliich he described the river as running to tliu
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 141
Thursday 17. We remained here all day for the purpose of taking an observation. We got a number of dogs from the natives. Salmon are very plenty but poor and dying, and therefore not fit for provisions. In the plains are a great many hares and a number of fowls, between the size of a pheasant and turkey, called heath hens or grous. We killed a great many of these fowls which are very good eating. The small river, which we called Flathead and afterwards Clarke's river, is a branch of the Great Columbia, and running a northwest course, falls into it a considerable distance above this place ; we therefore never passed the mouth of that river.
The Columbia here is 860 yards wide, and the Ki-moo-ee-nem (called Lewis's river from its junction with the Koos-koos-ke) 475 yards. They are both very low at this place. Our course since we took water has been a few degrees south of west: here the Columbia turns to the east of south.
Friday 18. This was also a fine day and we remained here till after 12 o'clock. In the forenoon our Command- ing Officers were employed in getting specimens of the language of the natives, there being three, or part of three, different nations here. They are almost without
east of south, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues, encumbered with falls and rapids, some of them A'ery dangerous and six impracticable. He represented the carrying places as of great length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted the lands of three other tribes in succession who spoke different languages. Beyond them he knew nothing of the river or country, only that it was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there was a lake before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink.
"The more I heard of the river," says Mr. M'Kenzie, "the more I was convinced it could not empty itself into the ocean to the north of what is called the river of the West, so that with its windings the distance must be very great." It is not improbable that tlie distance by water, from the place Mr. M'Kenzie struck this river, to its mouth (supposing it to be the Columbia, Oregon or Great River of the West,) is upwards of 1000 miles, and its whole course from its source 1500. By the lake mentioned by the Indian chief is no doubt meant the bay at the mouth of the Columbia, and wide part of the river where the tide water ascends and renders the whole unfit to drink.
142 JOITvNAL or LEWIS AND CLARKE
clothing, having no covering of any account, except some deer skin robes and a few leggins of the same; materials. The women have scarce sufficient to cover their nakedness. Captain Lewis -had an observation at noon, which gave 46*^ 15. 13. .9. north latitude. At one we proceeded on down the Great Columbia, which is a very beautiful river. The course is something to the east of south for about 12 miles, and then winds round to almost a west course. We passed some islands and a number of the camjis of the natives, which appear to be very shv and distant. We went 21 miles and halted close below an Indian cam}); where they have tliirty canoes; and a great quantity of dried fish.
Saturday 19. Tlie morning was clear and pleasant, with some white frost. A number of the natives came to our camp, and our Commanding Officers presented one of them with a medal and otiier small articles. At 8 o'clock we proceeded on; passed some islands and bad raj)ids, but no accident happened. We also passed a great many Indian camps. In the whole country around there are only level j)lains, except a few hills on some [)arts of the river. \Ve went 36 miles and halted oppo- site a largo Indian camp; and about 36 canoe loads of them came over to see us; some of whom remained all night; but we could not have much conversation with them as we did not understand their language. They are clothed much in the same manner with those at the forks above. The custom prevjiils among these Indians of burying all the })roperty of the deceased, with the body. Amongst these savages when any of tliem die, his baskets, bags, clothing, horses and other properly are all interred: even his canoe is split into pieces and set up round his grave.
Sunday 20. A fine clear frostv mornins;. We set out early; passed along a handsome part of the river; saw some pelicans and gulls. And as the shores are lined with dead salmon, thez'e are abundance of crows and ravens. Vast (juaiitities of these fish die at this time of the year. At noon we came to an Indian camp cm the point of a large island, where wc sioj)ped and got
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 143
some fish and other provisions. We here saw some arti- cles which shewed that white people had hcen here or not far distant during the summer. They have a hem- pen seine and some ash paddles which they did not mako themselves. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on again, went 42 miles, and encamped without any of the natives being along, which is unusual on this river. We could not get a single stick of wood to cook with; and had only a few small green willows.
Monday 21. We continued our voyage at an early hour, and had a fine morning. At ten, we came to the lodges of some of the natives, and halted with them about two hours. Here we got some bread, made of a small white root, which grows in this part of the country. We saw amono; them some small robes made of the skins of grey squirrels, some racoon skins, and acorns, which are signs of a timbered country not far distant. Having proceeded on again, we passed several more lodges of Indians; and through two very rocky rapid parts of the river with great difficulty. We went 32 miles and encamped at some Indian lodges, where we procured wood from the natives to cook with.
Tuesday 22. The morning was fine and we went on early, and saw a great number of ducks, geese and gulls. At 10 o'clock we came to a large island, where the river has cut its way through the point of a high hill. Opposite to this island a large river comes in on the south side, called bv the natives the Sho-sho-ne or Snake-Indian river; and which has large rapids close to its mouth. This, or the Ki-moo-ee-nem, is the same river, whose head waters we saw at the Snake nation.
The natives are very numerous on the island and all along the river. Their lodges are of bulrushes and flags, made into a kind of mats, and formed into a hut or lodge.
About three miles lower down we came to the first falls or great rapids; and had 1300 yards of a portage overbad ground. All our baggage was got over this evening and we encamped with it; but are not certain whether we can take our canoes by water. Our voyage to day, to the head of the rapids or falls Was 18 miles.
144 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Wednesday 23. A pleasant day. At 9 o'clock in the forenoon all hands, but three left to keep camp, went up and took the canoes over to the south side; as the natives said that was the best side of the river to take them down. Here we had to drag them 450 yards round the first j)iich which is 20 feet perpendicular. We then ])Ut them into the water and let them down the rest of the way by cords. The whole height of the falls is 37 feet eight inches, in a distance of 1200 yards. In the evening we got all our canoes safe down to the encamp- ment on the north side. The natives are very numerous about these falls, as it is a great fishing place in the spring of the year. The country on both sides of the river here is high, and the bluffs rocky. Captain Lewis had an observation, which made the latitude of this place 45° 42. 57. 3. North. We got several dogs from these Indians, which we find strong wholesome diet. The high water mark below the falls is 48 feet, and above only 10 feet four inches from the surface of the water: so that in high water there is nothing but a rapid, and the salmon can pass up without difficulty. The reason of this rise in the water below the falls is, that for three miles down, the river is so confined by rocks (being not more than 70 yards wide) that it cannot discharge the water, as fast as it comes over the falls, until what is defficient in breadth is made up in depth. About the great })itch the appear- ance of the place is terrifying, with vast rocks, and the river below the pitch, foaming through difierent channels.
Thursday 24. We had a fine morning and proceed- ed on early; found the water very rapid below the falls; and having gone four miles below the narrows, came to other narrows still more confined and the rocks higher. At the head of these narrows we halted about 2 o'clock at a great Indian village, and remained there all night. We got fish and dogs from the natives, and some berries, different from any we got before, some call them cran- berries; whether of the real kind or not I am not certain. In our way down to day we saw a great many sea otters swimming in the river, and killed some, but could not get tltem as they sunk to the bottom. This village has better
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 145
lodges than any on the river above; one story of which is sunk under ground aiid lined with flag mats: The upper part about 4 feet above ground is covered over with cedar bark, and they are tolerably comfortable houses.
Friday 25. We found there were bad rapids in the narrows and therefore carried over part of our baggage by land, about three quarters of a mile; and then took the canoes over, one at a time. In goirg over one of them filled with water, on account of which we were detained three hours. The rapids continued three or four miles, when the river became more placid. At night we came to a place where there is a considerable quantity of timber on the hills; both oak and pine, and encamped at the mouth of a creek on the south side. The natives about here are, or pretend to be, very uneasy, and say the Indians below will kill us. We purchased from them a quantity of dried pounded fish, which they had prepared in that way for sale. Thc^y have six scaf- folds of a great size for the purpose of dryiiig their fish on.
Saturday 26. A fine morning. We hauled up all our canoes to dress and repair them, as they had been injured in parsing over the portage, round ih3 lalls. Some hunters went out and killed six deer and some squirrels. In the afternoon about 20 of the natives came to our camp (among whom were the head chiefs of the two villages about the falls,) who had been out hunting when we passed down. The Commanding Officers gave medals to the chiefs, and some other small articles; and they appeared satisfied and some remained with us all night.
Sunday 27. This was a fine clear morning, but the wind blew very hard up the river, and we remamed here all day. This is the first hunting ground we have had for a long time, and some of our men went out. Part of the natives remained with us; but we cannot find out to what nation they belong. We suppose them to b3 a band of the Flathead nation, as all their heads are compressed into the same form; though they do not speak exactly the same language, but there is no great difference, and this 10
146 JOURNAL OF LEWLS AND CLARKE
may be a dialect of the same. Tliis singular and deform- ing ()})craiion is performed in infancy in the Ojllowing manner. A piece of board is placed iigainst the back of the head extending from the shoulders some distance above it; another shorter piece extends from the eye brows to the top of the first, and they are then bound together with thongs or cords made of skins, so as to press back the forjhead, make the head rise at the top, and force it out above the cars. In the evening our hun- trrs came in and had killed four deer and some squirrels. The wind blew hard all this dav.
Monday 28. Just before day light there was a shower of rain; but at sunrise the morning was fine and clear. At 8 o'clock we embarked, went about four miles, and halted at a small village of the natives and got some dogs from them. Hero we stayed about an hour and proceed- ed on again for about a mile, when we were compelled to stop on account of the wind, which blew so hard ahead that we were unable to continue our voyage. In the course of the day there were some shuvvers of rain, la the evening one of the men wont out and killed a fine deer. We were in a good safe harbor and remained there all night, accompanied by the natives.
Tuesday 29. We embarked early in a cloudy morn- ing; passed high hills on both sides of the river, on which there was |)ine timber; and some birch on the banks of the river. At breakfast time we stopt at a small village of the natives and purchased some more dogs: then pro- ceeded on; passed a number more Indian camps, and a high mountainous country on both sides. In the evening we discovered a high mounlain to the south, not more than five miles olF, covered with snow. We have here still water; and the breadth of the river is from three tjuariers to a mile. We went 23 miles and encamped at a small village on the north side.
Wednesday 30. The morning was cloudy; the river and country we found much the same as yesterday. At noon we stopped to dine and one of the men went out and kilbida large buck. A number of fine springs come down the hills on liic South side: and w^^ passed a small
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 147
river on the north. In the evening we came to the head of falls, where there is a large Indian village. On our way down we saw a great many swans, geese and ducks; and a number of sea otter. There are some small bot- toms along the river, with cotton wood on them, and on the banks of the river some white oak, ash and hazlenut. At a distance there are ponds which abound with geese and ducks. It rained hard all day, and we came only 15 miles.
Thursday 31. The morning was cloudy. We unload- ed our canoes and took them past the rapids, some part of the way by water, and some over rocks 8 or 10 feet high. It was the most fatiguing business we have been engaged in for a long time, and we got but two over all day, the distance about a mile, and the fall of the water about 25 feet in that distance. »
Friday, November 1, 1805. We had a cool frosty morning. We carried down our baggage before break- fast as we could not go into the water, without uneasiness on account of the cold. In the forenoon we took down the other two canoes. A number of the natives with four canoes joined us here from above. Their canoes were loaded with pounded salmon, which they were taking down the river to barter for beads and other articles.
Saturday 2. There is here a small rapid below the falls, where the men had to carry part of the baggage across a portage of two miles and a half, while the rest took down the canoes. At 12 o'clock we proceeded on again; passed a narrow rapid part of the river of about eight miles, the hills on both sides are very high, and a number of fine springs flowing out of them, some of which fall 200 feet perpendicular. The hills are mostly solid rocks. On our way we passed two Indian lodges. At the end of eight miles, the river opens to the breadth of a mile, with a gentle current. We came 23 miles, and encamped at a high peak resembling a tower on the south side. The country here becomes level, and the river broader. One of the Indian canoes remained with us and the other three went on. On our way and at camp we killed 17 geese and brants.
148 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
SiincUiy 3. The morning was foggy: one of the men went out and killed a fine buck. At nine we proceeded on, but could not see the country we were passing, on account of the fog, which was very thick till noon when it disappeared, and we had a beautiful day. We at that time came to the mouih of a river on the south side, a quarter of a mile broad, but not more than six or eight inches deep, running over a bar of quicksand. At this place we dined on venison and goose; and from which we can see the high point of a mountain covered with snow, in about a southeast direction from us. Our Com- manding Officers are of opinion that it is Mount Hood, discovered by a Lieutenant of Vancoover, who was up this river 75 miles. The river that falls in here has two mouths, through which it drives out a considerable quan- tity of sand into the Columbia. Opposite the lower mouth there is a handsome island. At 2 o'clock we pro- ceeded on, and passed another island. The country on both sides appears level and closely timbered: on the river the timber is cotton wood, maple and some ash; and back from it mostly spruce pine. We made 13 miles and encamped on a large island, in which is a large pond full of swans, geese and ducks. On our way and here we killed some of each kind. At night. Captain Lewis had a small canoe carried over to the pond in order to hunt by moon light, but the party did not happen to have good luck, having killed only a swan and three ducks.
CHAPTER XV.
Monday 4. A fine morning. We embarked early; passed two large islands, and a beautiful part of the river, The tide raised the water last night two feet. We went about seven miles and came to a large Indian village, where they informed us that in two days we would come to two ships with white people in them. The Indians
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 149
other articles which they got from these ships. We got some dogs and roots from the natives. The roots are of a superior quality to any I had before seen: they are called whapto; resemble a potatoe when cooked, and are about as big as a hen egg. Game is more plenty here than up the river, and one of the men killed a deer this morning. At this camp of the natives they have 52 canoes, well calculated for riding waves. We proceeded on, and passed some handsome islands, and down a beau- tiful part of the river. We also passed a number of Indian lodges; and saw a great many swans, geese, ducks, cranes, and gulls. We went 28 miles and encamped on the north side. In the evening we saw Mount Rainy on ths same side. It is a handsome point of a mountain with little or no timber on it, very high, and a considera- ble distance otf this place.
Tuesday 5. We embarked very early. Some rain fell last night about 2 o'clock, and the morning was cloudy. We passed several handsome islands, generally near the shore, on the one side or the other of the river. The country on both side is somewhat higher than what we passed yesterday, and closely covered with spruce timber. The bottoms are large, covered with cotton wood, maple, and the like kinds of wood. We passed a great many Indian camps, their lodges made chiefly of poles and cedar bark. At noon we stopped about an hour at an island, and some of the men went out and killed nine brants and a swan. Three of the brants were quite white except the points of their wings, which were black. We proceeded on in the afternoon, during which some rain and a little hail fell; went 31 miles and encamped on the north side. Here the tide rises and falls four feet.
Wednesday 6. We set out early in a cloudy morning after a disagreeable night of rain. Saw a number of the natives, going up and down the river in canoes. Also passed some of their lodges. The Indians in this part of the country have but few horses, their intercourse and business being chiefly by water. The high land here have a great deal of new cloth among them, and
150 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
comes more close on the river in this part. Having gone 29 miles we encamped on the souili side.
Thursday 7. We set out again early in a foggy morning; went about six miles and came to an Indian camp, were we got some fresh fish and dogs. The dress of the squaws here is difTjrcnt from that of those up the river; it consists of a long fringe made of soft bark, which they tie round the waist, and which comes down almost to their knees; and of a small robe, made out of small skins cut into thongs and wove somewhat like carpeting. We remained here about two hours and then ])roceeded on. At this place the river is about three miles wide, with a number of small islands, and the country broken. In the evening we came to a part of the river, where it is five miles broad. We went 34 miles and encamped on the south side at the mouth of a fme spring.
Friday 8. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, and there was a hard wind from the east. We went about five miles and came to a bay 32 or 14 miles wide. We had to coast round it, as the wind raised the waves so high we could s:o no other way. We halted and dined at a point on the north side of the bay where a small liver comes in. We again proceeded on coasting, till we came to a point of land where the bay becomes narrower; and the water quite salt. The waves here ran so high we were obliged to lie to, and let the tide leave our canoes on dry ground. This point we called Cape Swell ; and the bay above. Shallow Bay, as there is no great depth of water. In crossing the bay when the tide was out, some of our men got sea sick, the swells were so great. In it there are a great many swans, geese, ducks and other water fowls. The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable; and the distance we made, in a strait line, was not more than nine miles; though the distance we coasted was above 20 miles.
Saturday 9. The morning was windy, rainy and dis- agreeable, and we were obliged to remain at Cape Swell all day and unload our canoes to prevent them from sinking; notwithstanding some of them did sink when
152 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
the tide came in at noon. We had no fresh water, ex'ccpi what rain we caught by putting out our vessels. We remained here all night, and the rain continued.
Sunday 10. We had a rainy morning, but the wind was not so high as it had been yesterday; and we set out from Cape Swell, coasted along for eight miles, passed some high clilfs of sandy rocks, and then came a point; where wc found the swells so high, the wind having risen, that we could not proceed: so we had to return back about a mile to get a safe harbor. Here we dined on some pounded sahnon, that we had procured from the Indians; and unloaded our canoes- After we had been here about two hours, it became more calm and we loaded the cano3S again, but could not get round the point, the swells were still so high; we therefore put too at a branch of fresh water, under high cliffs of rocks and unloaded again. Hero we had scarcely room to lie between the rocks and water; but we made shift to do it among some drift wood ihat had baen beat up by the tide. It rained hard all nicrht and was very disagreeable. While on our way down to day we saw some porpoises, sea otter and a great many sea gulls. The water is become very salt.
Monday 11. The morning was very wet and the wind still blowing, so that we could not proceed; we there- fore built \ai2:2 fires and made our situation as comforta- ble as possible, but still bad enough, as we have no tents, or covering to defend us, except our blankets and some mats we got from the Indians, which we put on poles to keep off the rain. It continued raining and blowing all day; and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon the tide was so high that wo had to leave our lodges, until it got lower in the evening. Some of the men went about 40 perches up the river and caught 15 fine large fish.
Tuesday 12. A cloudy wet morning, after a terrible night of rain, hail, thunder and lightning. We thought it b; s; to move our camp, and fixed our canoes and load- ed them with stones to keep them down. We went about the eighth of a mile from this place, and fixed ourselves as well as we could, and remained all night. The rain still continued, and the river remained very rough.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 153
Wednesday 13. This was another disagreeable rainy day, and we remained at camp being unable to get away. At 9 o'clock in the forenoon it became a little more calm than usual; and three men took a canoe, which we got from the Indians of a kind excellent for riding swells, and set out to go to the point on the sea shore, to ascer- tain whether there were any white people there, or if they were gone.
Thursday 14. We expected last night to have been able to proceed on this morning, but the rain continued, and the river still remained rough; and we are therefore obliged to lie by. About noon one of the three men who had gone in the canoe, returned having broke the lock of his gun: but the other two went on by land, as the swells ran so high that they could not possibly get the canoe along. About the same time some Indians in a canoe came up the river, and had stolen a gig from the men; but the one we returned got it from them again when he came up. In the evening Captain Lewis with four men started by land to see if any white people were to be found. The rest remained in camp; and the weather continued wet, and the most disagreeable I had ever seen.
Friday 15. This morning the weather appeared to settle and clear off, but the river remained still rough. So we were obliged to continue here until about 1 o'clock, when the weather became more calm, and we loaded and sf^t out from our disagreeable camp; went about three miles, when we came to the mouth of the river, where it empties into a handsome bay. Here we halted on a sand beach, formed a comfortable camp, remained in full view of the ocean, at this time more raging than pacific. One of the two men who first went out came to us here, the other had joined Captain Lems's party. Last night the Indians had stolen their arms and accoutrements, but restored them on the arrival of Captain Lewis and his men in the morning.
Saturday 16. This was a clear morning and the wind pretty high. We could see the waves, like small moun- tains, rolling out on the ocean, and pretty bad in the bay.
151 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
CHAPTER XVI.
"We aro now at tbo end of our voyage, wliich has been completely accomplisbod according to the intention of the expedition, the object of wliicb \va.s to discover a passj^e by the way of the Missouri and Cobnnbia rivers to the Pacific ocean; notwithstanding the difficuhies, pri- vations and dangers, which w^e had to encounter, endure and surmount.
This morning five of the men went out to hunt; and about 3 o'clock all cams in but one. They had killed tv/o deer, nine brants, two geese, one crane, and three ducks. The day being clear we got all our baggage dried, and in good order; and quietly rested until Captain Lewis and his painy should return.
Sunday 17. We had a fine pleasant clear morning, and six hunters went out. About noon they all came in ; but the hunter wdio remained out last ni^ht did not return. He had killed two deer and the other men brought them in with some brants and a deer they had killed. About the same time Captain Lewis, and his party returned. They had b^'on round the bay, and seen where white people had baen in the course of the summer: but they had all sailed away. Ca})iain Lewis and his pany killed a deer and some brants. In the evening the rjmaining
hunter came ia and had killed another deer.
There are but few Indians settled down about the seashore; their dress is similar to that of some of those above. The women have a kind of fringe petticoats, made of filaments or tassels of the white cedar bark wrought with a string at the upper part, which is tied round the waist. These tassels or fringe are of some use as a covering, while the ladies are standing erect and the weather calm; but in any other position, or when the wind blows, their charms have but a j)recarious defence.
A number of both sexes keep about our camp; some have robes made of muskrat skins sewed together, and I saw some of loon-skins. Their diet is chiefly fish and roots.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 155
MEMORANDUM.
Of the computed distance in miles to the furthercst point
of discovery on the Pacific Ocean, from the place
where the canoes were deposited near the head ot the
INIissouri, which from its mouth is 3096
From the place of deposit to head spring, - 24
To first fork of the Sho-sho-ne river, - 14
To first large fork down the river, - - 18
To forks of the road at mouth of Tour creek - 14
To Fishing creek, after leaving the river, - 23
To Flathead, or Clarke's river at Fish camp, - 41
To the mouth of Travelers-rest creek, - "76
To the foot of the great range of Mountains,
east side, - - - - 12 To ditto ditto ditto
west side. - - - - 130
To the Flathead village in a plain, - - 3
To the Koos-koos-ke river, - - - 18
To the Canoe camp, at the forks, . - 6
To the Ki-moo-ce-nem , . - - 60
To the Great Columbia, by Lewis's river, - 140
To the mouth of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake river, 162
To the Great Falls of Columbia, . . 6
To the Short Narrows, - - - - 3
To the Long ditto - - - - 3
To the mouth of Cataract river, north side, - 23
To the Grand Shoot, or Rapids, - - 42
To the Last Rapids, or Strawberry island, - 6
To the mouth of Quicksand river, south side, - 26
To Shallow Bay, at salt water, - - 136
To Blustry Point, on north side, - - 13
To Point Open-Slope, below encampment, - 3
To Chin-Ook river at bottom of Haley's Bay, 12
To Cape Disappointment on Western ocean, 13
To Capt. Clarke's tour N. W. along coast, 10
miles 4133
Monday 18. The morning was cloudy. Captain
15G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Clarke and ten men went down to Cape Disappointment, to get a more full view of the ocean; and three went out to hunt. In the course of the day we got some dried salmon and roots from the natives. In the evening our hunters came in with a deer, two brants, and a squirrel, a hawk, and a flounder, which the tide had thrown on a sand bar. The Indians still remained with us and Capt. Lewis got a specimen of their language. Those, who live about the seashores, and on Rogue's harbor creek, a large creek that comes in on the north side of the bay, call themselves the Chin-ook nation.
Tuesday 19. We had a cloudy, rainy morning; but some of the hunters went out. About 1 o'clock the natives, who had, baen with us some time, went away; and at four another party of the same nation came, and encamped close by us. They consisted of 15 men and one squaw. The dress of tha squaw was the same with those of the others. Several of the men have robes made of brant skins: one of them had a hat made of the bark of white cedar and beargrass, very handsomely wrought and water proof. One of our party purchased it for an old razor. Our hunters killed three deer to day.
Wednesday 20. We had a fine clear morning; the Indians remained at our camp; and Captain Lewis gave one of them a medal, as he ranked as a chief in the nation. . One of the men went out to hunt in the morn- ing, and in a short time killed two deer. This day con- tinued clear and pleasant throughout. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon Captain Clarke and his party returned to camp, and had killed a deer and some brants. They had been about 10 miles north of the cape, and found the country along the seashore level, with spruce-pine timber, and some prairies and ponds of water. They killed a remarkably largo buzzard, of a species different from any I had seen. It was nine feet across the wings, and three feet 10 inches from the bill to the tail. They found some pumice stones, which had been thrown out by the waves, of a quality superior to those on the Mis- souri; also a number of shells of diflxjrent kinds.
Thursday 21. A cloudy morning. About 8 o'clock
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 157
all the natives left us. The wind blew so violent to day, and the waves ran so high, that we could not set out on our return, which is our intention to do as soon as the weather and water will permit. The season being so far advanced, we wish to establish our winter quarters as soon as possible. One of the natives here had a robe of sea-otter skins, of the finest fur I ever saw; which the Commanding Officers wanted very much, and offer- ed two blankets for it, which the owner refused, and said he would not take five. He wanted beads of a blue color, of which we had none, but some that were on a belt belonging to our interpreter's squaw; so they gave him the belt for the skins. In the evening more of the natives came to our camp, and the night was very wet and disagreeable.
Friday 22. This was a rainy and stormy morning; and we were not yet able to set out: the wind blew very hard from the south, and the river was rougher than it has been since we came here. At noon the tide was higher than common, and one of our canoes got among some logs, and was split. The rain and wind continued all day violent.
Saturday 23. The weather was somewhat cloudy but more calm. Some of the men went out to hunt and some to mend the canoe which had been split in the storm yesterday. The natives still stay with us, and have a few roots and berries to subsist on at present; but I cannot conjecture how they live during the winter. They have no moccasons or leggins of any kind; and scarce any other covering than the small robes, which were mentioned before.
In the afternoon 10 of the Clat-sop nation, that live on the south side of the river came over to our camp. These are also naked, except the small robes which hardly covers their shoulders. One of these men had the reddest hair I ever saw, and a fair skin much freckled. In the evening our hunters came in, and had killed three deer, eight brants and 12 ducks. In the evening the weather cleared and we had a fine night.
Sunday 24. The morning was fine with some white
153 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
frost. As this was a fine clear day, it was thought pro- per to remain here in order to take some observations, which the bad weather had before rendered impossible. The latitude of this bay was found to be 46° 19. 11. 7. north;* and at our camp at the head of the bay the river is three miles and 660 yards wide. The natives stayed with us all day. At night the party were consulted by the Commanding Officers, as to the place most proper for winter quarters; and the most of them were of opin- ion, that it would be best, in the first place, to go over to the south side of the river, and ascertains whether good huntinsf ground could be found there. Should that be the case, it would be more eligible place than higher up the river, on acccunt of getting salt, as that is a very scarce article with us.
Monday 25. The morning was pleasant, though cloudy, wiih a white frost. We loaded our canoes and proceeded on: went about nine miles and made an attempt to cross the river, but failed; we therefore kept up the north side, round Shallow-bay, and encamped about four miles above it.
Tuesday 26. The morning of this day was cloudy and wet; but we set out early, went about a mile and then crossed the river; passing in our way several islands. Immediately after we crossed we came to a small village of the natives, and procured a few roots, called Wapto, from them, and then proceeded on, coasting down the bay on the south side. The whole of the day was wet and unpleasant, and in the evening we encamped for the night.
Wednesday 27. We set out early in a wet morning;
* Gjo^raphcrs have staterl that the Cohimbia enters the ocean in litituJ'3 it)'' IS. north. Tno diif^rcnce is therefore only one minute 11 seconds and 7 tenths. Tiie longitude by mistake they have made 236'^ 34 west; but wliich is the cast longitude, leaving l'2'i^ 2o for the west longitude. Mr. M'Kenzie arrived at the ocean in latitude 5"2'^ 23. 43. or 6^ 4. 31 nortli of the mouth of the Cohim- bia; and in longitude 12S^ 2 or 4^ 36. west of the mouth of the Columbia. This will shew the general course of the western coast between those places, to which the river and great chain of the Rocky Mountains are nearly parallel.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 159
coasted round, and turned a sharp cape about a mile; when we found the swells running so high that we had to hah, unload our canoes and haul them out on shore. Here we remained the afternoon and had a very wet night- Thursday 28. We had a wet windy morning; some of the hunters went out, but had no luck. It rained all day; and we had here no fresh water, but what was taken out of the canoes as the rain fell.
Friday 29. The weather continues cloudy and wet. Captain Lewis with four men, started to go down and examine whether there is good hunting, and whether we can winter near the salt water. Some of the hunters went out and in the evening returned without killing any game, which appears scarce. The hunting is also dffi- cult, the country being full of thickets and fallen timber. There was some showers of rain and hail during the day.
Saturday 30. This was a fair day; and some hunters went around the cape and killed two or three ducks. This is all the supply of fresh provisions, that we have had since we have been at this camp. We live almost altogether on pounded salmon. The whole of the day was fair, pleasant, and warm for the season.
Sunday December 1, 1805. The whole of this day was cloudy. Some of the hunters went out but had not the fortune to kill any thing, not even a duck.
Monday 2. The day was again cloudy and wet. Some of the hunters went out in the mornine; and in the afternoon one of them came in, after killing a fine elk. A party of the men went out to bring in the meat, which is a very seasonable supply, a number complain- ing of the bad effects of the fish diet. Neither the hun- ters nor the men, who went for the meat returned. In the evenincr the weather became clear, and we had a fine night.
Tuesday 3. The morning was foggy. About 9 o'clock the men came in with the meat of the elk. They had a disagreeable trip, it being dark before they arrived at the place where the elk had been killed: and
]G0 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
the darkness, fallen timber and underbrush prevented their return; so that they had to encamp out all night. Six of the natives came to our camp, the first who appear- ed since our arrival, and after staying an hour proceeded down the river. The greater part of the day was fair, but in the evening it clouded over and rained again. At dark our other two hunters came in, and had killed six elk some distance from the river.
Wednesday 4. We had a cloudy rainy morning. The river was so rough, we could not set out with the canoes, and six or seven men were sent to dress the elk that had been killed and take care of the meat. The rain continued all day.
Thursday 6. Again we had a wet stormy day, so the men were unable to proceed with the canoes. About 11 o'clock Captain Lewis and three of his party came back to camp; the other two were left to take care of some meat they had killed. They have found a place about 15 miles from this camp, up a small river which puts into a large bay on the south side of the Columbia, that will answer very well for winter quarters, as game is very plenty, which is the main object with us; and we intend to move there as soon as circumstances will admit. There is more wet weather on this coast, than I ever knew in any other place; during a month we have had but three fair days; and there is no prospect of a change.
Friday 6. We had another wet morning, and were not able to set out. At noon it rained very hard, and the tide flowed so high, that in some part of our camp the water was a foot deep: we had therefore to remove to higher ground. In the afternoon it still continued to rain hard.
Saturday 7. About 12 last night the rain ceased and we had a line clear morning. We put our canoes into the water, loaded them, and started for our intended wintering place. We coasted down the south side about a mile, and then met with the six men, who had gone for meat. They had brought four of the skins but no meat, the distance being great and the weather very bad.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 161
The swells being two high here to land, we went two miles furihcr and took the men in. We then proceeded round the bay until we came to the mouth of a river about 100 yards broad, which we went up about two miles to the place fixed upon for winter quarters, unloaded our canoes, and carried our baggage about 200 yards to a spring, where we encamped.
Sunday 8. We had a fine morning with some white frost. Captain Clarke with five men set out to go to the ocean, and myself with eleven more to bring in the meat, which the two men left by Captain Lewis were taking care of. We went up the small river in our canoes about two miles, then up a branch of it on the west side two miles, then by land about two miles more, where we found the men and the meat, of which we all carried two large loads to our canoes, and proceeded down to camp. In the evening it began to rain again. The
country towards the south is mountainous at some dis-
•I
tance off; and there is some snow on the mountains. Near our camp, the country is closely timbered with spruce-pine, the soil rich, but not deep; and there are numerous springs of running water.
Monday 9. The morning was cloudy and wet. A Serjeant and eight men were sent to bring in the remain- der of the meat we left yesterday; some were employed in making our camp comfortable, and others in clearing a place for huts and a small fort. In the evening some of the natives came to our camp, the first we have seen for some days. It continued cloudy and wet all day.
Tuesday 10. We had another wet cloudy morning, and all hands were employed at work notwithstanding the rain. About 2 o'clock Captain Clarke and three of his party returned to camp; the other two remained out to hunt. They found the ocean to be about seven miles from our camp; for four miles the land high and closely timbered: the remainder prairie out with some streams of water. They killed an elk and saw about 50 in one gang. They also saw three lodges of Indians on the seashore. The natives which were at our camp, went 11
162 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
away this morning aftc** receiving some presents, In the evening we laid the foundation of our huts.
Wednesday 11. This day was also cloudy and wet; but we continued at our hut building.
Thursday 12. This morning was cloudy without rain. In the forenoon we finished three rooms of our cabins, all but the covering; which I expect will be a dilHcult part of the business, as we have not yet found any tim- ber which s})lits well; two men went out to make some boards, if possible, for our roofs. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon a number of the natives from the seashore came to our camp, and remained all night. Some rain fell in the evening.
Friday 13. We had a cloudy, but fme morning; and all hands were engaged at work. The party of Indians who came yesterday went away, and another party came about the middle of the day. Two hunters came in, and had killed 18 elk, not mor-e than four miles distant. The day continued cloudy and some rain fell in the evening.
Saturday 14, The two hunters that had killed the elk, went back with two other men to take care of the meat. In the course of the day a good deal of rain fell ; the weather here still continues warm, and there has been no freezing except a little white frost. In the afternoon the savages all went away. We completed the building of our huts, seven in number, all but the covering, which I now find will not be so difficult as I expected ; as we have found a kind of timber in plenty, which splits freely and makes the finest puncheons I have ever seen. They can be split 10 feet long and two broad, not more than an inch and a half thick.
Sunday 15. The morning was cloudy. Captain Clarke with 16 of the party started to bring in the meat the four men were taking care of; myself and two others were employed in fixing and finishing the quarters of the Commanding Officers, and two more preparing puncheons for covering the huts. Some light showers fell during the day; and at night three Indians came to our camp, and brought us two large salmon.
I
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 1G3
Monday 16. This was a wet morning with high wind. Ahout eight Captain Clarke and 15 men came in loaded with meat ; they left a canoe with seven men to bring in the remainder. They had a very bad night, as the weather was stormy and a great deal of rain fell. Not- withstanding this, a sergeant and four men, who had got lost, lay out all night without tire. As soon as they arrived all hands were set to carrying up the meat, and putting it in a house we had prepared for the purpose. The whole of the day was stormy and wet.
Tuesday 17. This was another cloudy day, with some liG;ht showers of rain and hail. About 1 1 o'clock the seven men came with the canoe and the remainder of the meat. We still continued working at our huts.
Wednesday 18. Snow fell last night about an inch deep, and the morning was stormy. In the middle of the day the weather became clear, and we had a fine afternoon.
Thursday 19. This was a fme clear cool morning, and we expected to have some fair pleasant weather, but at noon it became cloudy again and began to rain.
Friday 20. The morning was cloudy and wet. We collected all the puncheons or slabs we had made, and some which we got from some Indian huts up the bay, but found we had not enough to cover all our huts. About 10 o'clock the weather became clear; but before night it rained as fast as before. From this day to the 25th we had occasionally rain and high winds, but the weather still continued warm. On the evening of the 24th we got all our huts covered and daubed.
Wednesday 25. Was another cloudy wet day. This morning we left our camp and moved into our huts. At daybreak all the men paraded and fired a round of small arms, wishing the Commanding Officers a merry Christ- mas. In the course of the day Captain Lewis and Capt. Clarke collected what tobacco remained and divided it among those who used tobacco as a Christmas-gift, to the others they gave handkerchiefs in lieu of it. We had no spirituous liquors to elevate our spirits this Christ- mas; but of this we had but little need, as we were all in
1G4 JOLTvNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
very good health. Our living is not very good; meat is plenty, but of an ordinary quality, as the elk are poor in this part of the country. We have no kind of provi- sions but meat, and we arc without salt to season that.
The 26th, 27ih and 28th, were cloudy with rain. We found our huts smoked; there being no chimnies in them except in the officers' rooms. The men were therefore employed, except some hunters who went out, in making chimnies to the huts. In the evening of the 27th we w^ere informed that a large fish, answering to the descrip- tion of a whale, was driven upon shore. In the forenoon of the 28th six men started for the seashore to make salt, as we have none in the fort. Two hunters returned, having killed a deer, and three went out to hunt.
Sunday 29. This was a cloudy morning; but a fair day succeeded; and three more hunters went out. In the afternoon several of the Chin-ook nation came to our fort with Wapto root and dried salmon to trade. We purchased some from them and found the supply season- able as our meat on hand is somewliat spoiled. The men about the fort are engaged in finishing our small fortification.
Monday 30. Heavy showers of rain fell last night, but the morning was fair, and we had some sunshine, which happens very seldom; light showers of rain fell during the day. About 2 o'clock the three hunters that first went out came in; and had killed four elk. Seven men went out immediately and brought them into the fort safe, which was a pleasing^sight, the meat we had on hand being spoiled. This evening we completely finish- ed our fortification.
Tuesday 31. Another cloudy morning. Some more of the natives came to trade with Wapto roots and salmon: the first party had gone off in the morning.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 165
CHAPTER XVII.
Wednesday, January 1, 1806. The year commen- ced with a wet day; but the weather still continues warm; and the ticks, flies and other insects are in abundance, which appears to us very extraordinary at this season of the year, in a lititude so far north. Two hunters went out this morning. We gave our Fortification the name of Fort Clatsop. In the evening our two hunters, that went out this morning, returned and had killed two large elk about three miles from the Fort.
Thursday 2. This also was a cloudy wet day. Four- teen men went out in the morning and brought the meat of the elk into the Fort.
Friday 3. The weather is still cloudy and wet. I set out this morning with one of the men to go to the salt works, to see what progress those engaged in that business had made; and why some of them had not returned, as they had been expected for some time. We proceeded along a dividing ridge, expecting to pass the heads of some creeks, which intervened. We traveled all day and could see no game ; and the rain still contin- en. In the evening we arrived at a place where two of the men had killed an elk sometime ago. Here we struck up a fire, supped on the marrow bones and remained all night.
Saturday 4. The morning was wet ; but we proceed- ed on, and passed the head of a creek which we supposed was the last on our rout to the salt works. Immediately after passing the creek, the man with me killed an elk; when we halted and took breakfast of it, and then went on. We got into low ground, passed through a marsh about half a mile in breadth, where the water was knee deep; then got into a beautiful prairie about five miles wide, and which runs along the seashore about 30 miles from Point Adams on the south side of Hayley's Bay, in nearly a southwest course and ends at a high point of a mountain, called Clarke's view on the sea shore. Through this plain or prairie runs another creek, or small
1G6 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
river which we could not pass without some craft: so we Giicampcd on the creek and supped on the elk's tongue, which we had brought with us.
Sunday 5. This was a very wet day. VVe killed a squirrel and eat it; made a raft to cross the creek; but when it was tried we found it would carry only one per- son at a time ; the man with me was therefore sent over first, who thought he could shove the raft across again; but when we attempted, it only went half way: so that there was one of us on each side and the raft in the mid- dle. I, however notwithstanding the cold, stript and swam to the raft, brought it over and then crossed on it in safety; when we pursued our journey, and in a short time came to some Indian camps on the sea shore. The rain and w^ind continued so violent that we agreed to stay at these camps all night.
Monday 6. We had a fair morning and the weather cleared up, after two months of rain, except four days. We therefore set out from these lodges; passed the mouth of a considerable river; went about two miles up the shore, and found our salt makers at work. Two of their detachment had set out for the fort on the 4th and the man that had come with me and two more went to hunt.
Tuesday 7. Another fine day. About noon Captain Clarke with 14 men came to the salt-makers camp, in their way to the place where the large fish had been dri- ven on shore, some distance beyond this camp. The Indians about our fort had procured a considerable quan- tity of the meat, which we found very good. The 8th was a fine day and I remained at camp. The 9th was also fair and pleasant; and about noon Captain Clarke and his party returned here; the distance being about 17 miles. They found the skeleton of the whale which measured 105 feet in length and the head 12. The natives had taken all the meat off its bones, by scalding and oilier means, for the purpose of trade. The Indians, who live up there are of another nation, and call them- selves the Callemex nation. They are a ferocious nation: one of them was going to kill one of our men, for his blanket; but was prevented by a squaw of the
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. l67
Chinook nation, who lives among them, and who raised an alarm. There is a small river comes into the sea at that place. Captain Clarke and his party remained at the camp all night, during which some rain tell.
Friday 10. The morning was fme and Captain Clarke and his party started, and I remained at this camp to wait the return of the man who had come with me and who was out hunting. The 11th was also pleasant, and I proceeded with a party for the fort; where about 9 o'clock we arrived the next day. Two hunters had gone out from the fort in the morning, and killed seven elk about two miles from it.
Monday 13. The weather changed and we had a cloudy wet day ; and all the hands, who could be spared were engaged in bringing the meat of the elk, killed yes- terday to camp.
Tuesday 14. The morning was pleasant; and two men were sent to the salt works to assist in making salt. The rest of our people were employed in drying and taking care of the meat; and in dressing elk skins for moccasons, which is a laborious business, but we have no alternative in this part of the country.
The 1 5th and 1 6th were both wet throughout, and the men employed as on the 14th. In the morning of the 17th there were some clouds; but about 10 o'clock they disappeared and we had a fine day. About the same time eight of the natives of the Clatsop nation came to our fort, and stayed till the evening. A hunter went out in the morning and killed a deer.
Saturday 18. Last night was very dark; and early in it rain came on and continued all night. This day is also wet. Some of the natives visited us and went away in the evening.
Sunday 19. Four hunters went out this morning, which was fair with flying clouds ; but in the evening it began to rain again. We had another visit from some of the natives.
Monday 20. It rained hard all day. Some of the natives again came to see us, whom we suffered, con- trary to our usual practice, to remain in the fort all night;
168 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
the evening was so wet and stormy. It also rained on the 21st and 22nd. Our hunters killed three elk. On my way with a party to bring in the meat of these, I saw some amazingly large trees of the fur kind; they are from 12 to 15 feet in diameter.
Thursday 23. We had a fine clear cool morning, and two men were sent on to the salt works. The day continued pleasant initil about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when the weather became cloudy, and it began to rain.
Friday 24. At daylight some snow fell, and there were several snow showers during the day. In the afternoon two of our hunters and some of the natives caiTie to the fort in an Indifin canoe with the meat of two deer and an elk they had killed. The Indians were barefooted notwithstanding the snow on the ground; and the evening was so bad we permitted them to stay in the fort all night.
f Saturday 25. The morning was cloudy and some showers of snow fell in tlM3 course of the day; and in the night it fell to the depth of eight inches. On the 26th there were some light showers during the day; but in the evening the weather cleared up., and it began to freeze hard. This is the first freezing weather of any consequence we have had during the winter.
Monday 27. This was a clear cold frosty morning; and the snow about nine inches deep. Where the sun shone on it during the day, a considerable quantity of it melted; but these places were few, as the whole face of the country near this is closely covered with fir timber. In the afternoon a hunter came in and informed us that the party he had been with had killed 10 elk.
Tuesday 28. A clear cold morning, and the weather continued cold all day. About half of our men were employed bringing home meat; and it was found a very cold uncomfortable business. The two men who lately went to the salt works returned with a small supply.
Wednesday 29. We had a cold clear morning; and the day continued clear throughout. On the 30ih the weather was cloudy; and not so cold as the day before; and some snow fell.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 169
Friday 31. This was a clear cold morning. Seven of us went up the small river in a canoe to hunt; but after wc had gone a mile, we were stopped by the ice and had to return to the fort. One of the men at the salt works had been out hunting, and killed an elk; and called at the fort for men to assist him in taking the meat to their camp.
Saturday, February 1, 180G. We had a line clear cold morning. A number of the men went out to bring meat to the fort, and to take some to the salt works.
Sunday 2. The morning was pleasant and the weather more moderate. About the middle of the day it began to thaw and in the evening to rain. Some of our men were engaged to day bringing in more meat.
Monday 3. Some light showers of rain fell in the course of last night; and this day is still somewhat wet and cloudy. One of our hunters came in, who had killed seven elk, and returned with a party and a canoe to bring in the meat. We are fortunate in getting as much meat as we can eat; but we have no other kind of provisions,
Tuesday 4. This was a fine clear morning. Last night the men, who had gone to carry the meat to the salt works, returned and brought us a bushel of salt. This day continued throughout clear and pleasant; and the 5th was a clear cold day. One of our hunters came in, who had killed six elk.
Thursday 6. We had a cool fair morning. Ten of us started with canoes to bring in the meat of the elk, killed yesterday ; and had to encamp out all night but with the assistance of the elk skins and our blankets, we lodged pretty comfortable, though the snow was four or five inches deep.
Friday 7. The morning was fair, and all hands enga- ged bringing in the meat; we got some to the fort; but myself and part of the men had again to encamp out. It rained hard and we had a disagreeable night.
Saturday 8. About noon there were showers of rain and hail. Some of the hunters killed four more elk and we got all the meat safe to camp in the evening.
Sunday 9. We had a fine morning; but in the course
170 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
of the day we had sometimes sunshine, and sometimes showers of rain. One of our hunters caught a beaver.
Monday 10. A light snow fell last night, and the morning was pleasant. In the afternoon two men came from the salt works, with information that two others were sick and a third had cut his knee so badly he could scarcely walk.
* Tuesday 11. This was a fine morning. A sergeant and six men were sent to bring the sick men to the fort. At the same time myself and two men went out to hunt, and remained out to the 17ih during which time there was a great deal of heavy rain, and the weather changea- ble and disagreeable. While we were out we killed eight elk. During one of the most disagreeable nights, myself and another lay out in our shirts and overalls, with only one elk skin to defend us from a violent night's rain. We had started a gang of elk, and in order to be light in the pursuit left our clothes where the first was killed, and could not get back before dark. Our shirts and overalls beirtsj all of leather made it the more disa- greeable.
Monday 17. The day was stormy; we set out for the fort and arrived there in the afternoon. We found the sick men at the fort, and still very bad. One of the men brought word from the salt works, that they had made about four bushels of salt; and the Commanding Officers thought that would be sufficient to serve the party, until we should arrive at the Missouri where there is some deposited.
Tuesday 18. The morning of this day was cloudy. A sergeant and six men set out to go to the salt works, to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. At the same time I started with 10 more to bring in meat; but the weather was so stormy we could not get round the bay, and we all returned to the fort.
Wednesday 19. We were employed m bringing in meat, and the sergeant and seven men again set out for the salt works by land, to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. The day was very wet and stormy.
Thursday 20. This was a cloudy morning. A num-
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. iTl
ber of tlie Chinook Indians came to the fort with hats to trade. They are made of the cedar bark and silk grass, look handsome and keep out the rain. But little rain fell to day, and in the evening we turned out the natives as usual, and they all went home.
Friday 21. About 1 o'clock, our salt makers came home, with the salt and baggage. They had a very unpleasant day, as it rained hard during the whole of it.
Saturday 22. This was a fine clear day; and some of the natives again visited us, and brought some hats which we purchased at a moderate price. The 23d was also clear and pleasant; but the morning of the 24th was cloudy, and at 10 o'clock it began to rain hard. About noon a number of the natives came to the fort to trade. The rain continued with high stormy wind; and we suffered the Indians to remain in the fort all night.
Tuesday 25. The rain continued and the weather was stormy. About 10 o'clock the natives went away, though it continued to rain very fast. They brought us yesterday a number of small fish, of a very excellent kind, resembling a herring, and about half the size.
Wednesday 26. We had a fair morning; some of the hunters went out, as our store of provisions was getting small, and three men ^vent in search of these small fish, which we had found very good eating. The 27th was a cloudy wet day. Three of our hunters came in, and had killed an elk.
Friday 28. This was a foggy morning, and the fore- noon cloudy. A sergeant and six men went out to bring in the meat, and returned about noon. The greater part of this day was fair and pleasant; and in the evening three hunters came in, and had killed five elk.
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CHAPTER XVIII.
Saturday, March 1, 1806. Wc had a cloudy wet morning. I set out with eight men and four hunters to bring the meat of the elk that had been killed, which was at a greater distance from the fort than any we had yet brought in. There is a largo river that flows into the southeast part of Hailey's Bay; upon which about 20 miles from its mouth, our hunters discovered falls, which had about 60 feet of a perpendicular pitch.
Sunday 2. This day was also wet. The fishing party returned at night, and brought with them some thousands of the same kind of small fish, we got from the natives a few days ago, and also some sturgeons.
The Indian name of the river we were up yesterday is Kil-hou-a-nak-kle, and that of the small river, which passes the fort Ne-tul.
Monday 3. It rained all this day and the following. Our sick men are getting better, but slowly, as they have little or no suitable nourishment.
Wednesday 5. About 12 o'clock last night the rain ceased, and we had a fine morning. A number of the natives visited us; and at night our hunters returned, but had killed nothing.
Thursday 6. Our stock of provisions being nearly exhausted, six men were sent out in different directions to hunt; and three more were sent to endeavor to procure some fish, as the natives take a great number of the small fish about 20 miles distant from the fort by water. Some men were also employed in repairing the canoes that we may be able to set out on our return immediately, should our hunters be unsuccessful. The elk, almost the only game in this part of the country, are chiefly gone to the mountains. This day continued fair throughout.
Friday 7. This was a wet morning, and some show- ers fell occasionally during the day. Among our other difficulties we now experience the want of tobacco, and out of 33 persons composing our party, there are but seven who do not make use of it: we use crab-tree bark
173
174 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
as a substitute. In the evening one of our hunter came in and had killed an elk a considerable distance off.
Saturday 8. Some snow fell last night, and the morn- ing was stormy and disagreeable. About 9 o'clock another of our hunters came in who had killed two elk; and after some time the remaining three, having killed but one deer, and lost their canoe.
Sunday 9. This morninsj 10 men went out to hunt. There were some light showers of snow this forenoon, but during the greater part of it the sun shone clear and warm. In the afternoon some of the natives came to visit us, and brought some of the small fish, which they call Ulken. Two hunters came in, in the evening, but had not killed any thing. The men sent to fish are still absent, owing perhaps to the high swells in the bay. The Indians remained in the fort all night.
On the 10th we had changeable weather, with snow showers. At noon two more hunters went out.
Tuesday 11. The weather was nearly the same as yesterday. Three men went across the bay in a canoe to hunt. Two other hunters came in but have killed nothing. At noon our fishermen returned with some Ulkon and sturg-eon. The mornino; of the 12th was pleasant ; but towards the evening the day became cloudy. Another hunter went out.
Thursday 13, The morning was fine and two more hunters went out early. About ten the hunters who had gone across the bay returned, and had killed two elk and two deer.
I this day took an account of the number of pairs of moccasons each man in the party had; and found the whole to be 338 pairs. This stock was not provided without great labor, as the most of them are made of the skins of elk. Each man has also a sufficient quanti- ty of patch-leather. Some of the men went out to look for the lost canoe, and killed two elk.
Friday 14. We had a fine morning; and four hun- ters set out early. I went with a party and brought in the meat of the two elk which were killed last evening. Two hunters, who had gone out yesterday morning
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 175
returned very much fatigued, and had killed nothing but a goose and a raven which they eat last night. AV^hile out to-day I saw a number of musquitoes Hying about. I also saw a great quantity of sheep-sorrel growing in the woods of a very large size.
Saturday 16. This was a fine pleasant morning. About noon our hunters came in and had killed four elk. A number of the natives came to the fort to day.
Sunday 16. Last night it became cloudy and began to rain ; and the rain has continued all day. The Indians stayed about the fort the whole of this day. Yesterday while I was absent, getting our meat home, one of the hunters killed two vultures, the largest fowls I had ever seen. I had never saw any such as these except on the Columbia river and the sea coast.
On the 17ih it rained occasionally during the whole of the day. We got a canoe from the natives, for which we gave an officer's uniform coat.
Tuesday 18. The weather was much like that of yesterday, and some hail fell in the course of the day. Some of the men are repairing the small canoes, and making preparations to return up the river, as soon as the weather will permit. One of the hunters killed an elk.
The morning of the 19th was stormy, some hard show- ers of hail fell and it continued cloudy through the day.
Thursday 20. The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable. We intended to have set out to day on our return, but the weather was too bad. I made a cal culation of the number of elk and deer killed by the party from the 1st of Decomber 1805, to the 20th of March 1806, which gave 131 elk and 20 deer. There were a few smaller quadrupeds killed such as otter and beaver; and one raccoon. The meat of some of the elk was not brought to the fort.
Friday 21. We had a cloudy wet morning. Two of the hunters went out this morning; and about 10 o'clock we were visited by some of the Clat-sop Indians. These and the Chin-ook, Cath-la-mas, Cal-a-mex and Chiltz nations, who inhabit the seacoast, all dress in the
176 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
same manner. The men are wholly naked except a small robe; the women have only the addition of the short petticoat. Their language also is nearly the same; and they all observe the same ceremony of depositing with the remains of the dead all their property, or placing it at their graves. I believe I saw as many as an hun- dred canoes at one burying-place of the Chin-ooks, on the north side of the Columbia, at its entrance into Hailey's Bay: and there are a great many at the bury- ing-place of every village. These Indians on the coast have no horses, and very little property of any kind, except their canoes. The women are much inclined to venery, and like those on the Missouri are sold to pros- titution at an easy rate. An old Chin-ook squaw fre- quently visited our quarters with nine girls which she kept as prostitutes. To the honor of the Flatheads, who live on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, and extend some distance down the Columbia, we must mention them as an exception; as they do not exhibit those loose feelings of carnal desire, nor appear addicted to the common customs of prostitution: and they are ihe only nation on the whole route where any thing like chastity is regarded. In the evening our two hunters returned, but had killed nothing.
Saturday 22. We had a cloudy wet morning. Three hunters were sent on ahead to remain at some good hunt- ing ground until we should all come up; and six others to hunt near the fort. In the evening all these came in, except one, without any success.
Sunday 23. This was a cloudy morning. The hun- ter who remained out last night, came in early; and had killed an elk. We were employed this aftenioon in dividing and packing up our loading; and distributing it among the canoes, which were five in number, three large and two small. At noon wo put it on board; and at 1 o'clock left fort Clatsop. The afternoon was fair; we proceeded round Point William, went about 19 miles, and encamped at the mouth of a creek, where we found the three hunters, that had been sent on ahead; and who had killed two elk about a mile and a half distant.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 177
Monday 24. After a bad night's rest, on account of the rain, 15 men went out and brought the meat of the two elk to our camp. The morning was fair and after breakfast they all embarked, except the men belonging to my canoe which the tide had left aground. The hun- ters went on in the small canoe ahead, and I had to wait for the rising of the tide. In about two hours 1 was able to follow the other canoes, and proceeded on about 12 miles to a village of the Cath-la-mas where the rest of the party liad halted. When I arrived we all proceeded on again, and in the evening encamped at an old village, which hnd been vacated.
Tuesday 23. We set out after breakfast and had a fair morning; proceeded on to 12 o'clock, when we again halted, the wind and tide being both against us. When the tide began to rise we went on again, saw some of the natives in canoes descending the river, and in the afternoon passed an Indian lodge, where one of the men purchased an otter skin. At this time the wind rose and blew very hard accompanied with rain; notwithstanding we proceeded on till night, when we came to the mouth of a small creek which formed a good harbor for our canoes. Here we found several of the natives encamped and catching sturgeon, of which they had taken 14 large ones.
Wednesday 26. After a disagreeable night's rain, and wind, we continued our voyage. As we passed along I saw a great many flowers full blown of different colors; and grass and other herbage growing fast: I saw nettles two feet high of this spring's growth.
Thursday 27. This was a cloudy wet morning. We embarked early and went about six miles, when we came to a small Indian village, where the natives received us very kindly. They belong to the Chil-ook nation, and differ something in their language from the Chin-ooks. We got some Wapto roots and hsh from them and then proceeded on, though it rained very hard. Two small canoes went on ahead to Deer island, in order to kill some game by the time we should come up. We passed several Indian lodges where the natives were fishing for 12
178 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
sturgeon, and got a largo one out of a small canoe ; a number of whicii followed us with two Indians in each of them. At night we encamped where we had plenty of good wood, oak and ash.
Friday 28. The morning was cloudy. We set out early, and at 10 o'clock came to Deer island; where those who had gone ahead in the small canoes had encamped, and all gone out to hunt except one. In a short time a hunter returned with a large deer, and we concluded to stay here all day and repair two of our canoes, that leaked. It rained at intervals durinE: the day. Our hunters came in and had killed seven deer in all. Some of the men went to bring in the meat, and others went out and killed some geese and ducks. At the last village we passed I took notice of a difference in the dress of the females, from that of those below, about the coast and Hailey's Bay. Instead of the short petticoat, they have a piece of thin dressed skin tied tight round their loins, with a narrow slip coming up between their thighs. On this island there are a greater number of snakes, than I had ever seen in any other place; they appeared almost as numerous as the blades of grass; a id are a species of Garter snake. When our men went for the deer, they found that the fowls had devoured four of the carcases entirely, except the bones. So they brought in the other two; and we finished our canoes and put them in the water. The Columbia river is now very high, which makes it more difficult to ascend.
Saturday 29. The morning was pleasant with some white frost and we proceeded on early; passed some old Indian lodges, and in the afternoon came to a large village, where we were received with great kindness, and got fish and wapto roots to eat. Here we bought some dogs and waptos, and then went on again, about a mile, and encamped. One of the sick men is quite recovered and the other two are getting better.
Sunday 30. The morning was fair with some dew. We set out early accompanied by several of tlie natives in canoes. The river is very high, overflowing all its banks. We passed some villages of the natives on
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 179
Wapto island, •which is about 20 miles long and one broad, but did not halt at any of them. The natives of this country ought to have the credit of making the finest canoes, perhaps in the world, both as to service and beauty; and are no less expert in working them when made,* We had a beautiful day throughout, and in the evening encamped on a handsome prairie in sight of a largo pond on the north side of the river.
Monday 31. This was a beautiful clear morning, and we proceeded on early. One of the men went along shore, and in a short time killed a deer: the deer are very plenty on this part of the river. We proceeded on, and passed a large village which was full of people as we went down, but is now all deserted except one lodge. In the evening we c^me to a small prairie opposite the mouth of Quicksand river, where w^e encamped.
Tuesday, April 1, 1806. We had a cloudy morning; and we agreed to stay here all day, for the purpose of hunting. So nine hunters set out early; three of whom went up Quicksand river, and killed a deer: the other six killed four elk and a deer. In the evening nine of us went to brino- in the meat of the elk; but it beino; late we w"ere obliged to encamp out all night.
Wednesday 2. We returned in the morning to camp; and it was agreed to stay here some time longer to hunt and dry meat. Therefore three parties went out to hunt. Myself and four men went below the mouth of Sandy river, and killed an elk, some deer and a black bear.
Thursday 3. We went out and killed some deer; and then to bring in the meat of the bear and dry that of the elk; but it rained so hard we could not dry the meat; and therefore brought in the carcase of the bear. On our way we saw three small cubs in a den, but the old bear was not with them. In the evening we returned to our camp, and remained there all night.
Friday 4. After a cloudy morning, we turned out and
* "I had imigineu tliat the Canadians, who accompanied me were tlie most expert canoe-men in the world, but tliey are very inferior to these people (the natives near the coast) as they them- selves acknowledged, in conducting those vessels." — M'Kenzie.
ISO JOURXAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
killed a deer and some geese, and then went to the camp. A party that went out on the upper side of Sandy river, killed four elk, and some of the men were out drying the meat.
While I was out hunting, Captain Clarke got informa- tion that a lars^e river came in on the south side of the Columbia, about 40 miles below this place, opposite a large island, which had concealed it from our view; and went down with six men to view it. He found it to be a very large river, 500 yards wide, with several nations of Indians living on it; and its source supposed to be near the head waters of some of the rivers, which fall into the gulph of California. On their return they bought some dogs at an Indian villacire; and last night arrived at camp. Four men were sent on ahead this forenoon in a canoe to hunt; and I went out with two more to the den where we saw the cubs, to watch for the old bear; we stayed there until dark and then encamped about a quarter of a mile off, and went back early in the morning; but the old one was not returned: so we took the cubs and returned to camp.
Saturday 6. The weather was pleasant. There is a beautiful prairie and a number of ponds below the mouth of Sandy river; and about two miles from the Columbia the soil is rich with white cedar timber, which is very much stripped of its bark, the natives making use of it both for food and clothing.* A number of the Indians visit us daily; and the females in general have that leather covering round their loins, which is somewhat in the form of a truss.
Sunday 6. We had a fine morning with some fog; about 10 o'clock we set out; passed a beautiful prairie on
* Mr. M'Kenzic also mentions that the western Indians make use of the inner tegument of the bark of trees for fo®d;and that it is generally considered by the more interior Indians as a delica- cy, rather than an article of common food; that on this and herbs they are used to sustain themselves on their journies. He likewise stales that of the inner rind of the hemlock, taken off early in the spring they make a kind of caKcs, which they cat with salmon oil, and of which they appear very fond.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 181
the north side, which we could not see for the fog as we went down; proceeded on about nine miles and came to our hunters' camp. They had killed five elk, so we halted, sent out for the meat and began to dry it. We are now at the head of the Columbia valley; which is a fine valley 70 miles long, abounding with roots of differ- ent kinds, which the natives use for food, especially the Wapto roots which they gather out of the ponds. The timber is mostly of the fir kind, with some cherry, dog- wood, soft maple and ash; and a variety of shrubs which bear fruit of a fine flavor, that the natives make use of for food.
]\ronday 7. This was a pleasant day, but cloudy. Three hunters went on ahead again and the rest of the partv remained drying meat to subsist on while we passed the Columbia plains, as there is no game in that part of the country, according to the accounts given by the natives, who are daily coming down; and say that those remaining in the plains are in a starving condition, and will continue so until the salmon begin to run, which is soon expected. We continued here all day; and one of our hunters killed a beautiful small bird of the quail kind.
Tuesday 8. This was a fme morning, but the wind blew so hard from the northeast that it was impossible to go on ; and about 8 o'clock the swells ran so high that we had to unload our canoes, and haul some of them out of the water to prevent their being injured. Some of the men are complaining of rheumatic pains; which are to be expected from the wet and cold we suffered last winter, during which from the 4th of November 1805 to the 25th of March 1806, there were not more than twelve days in which it did not rain, and of these but six were clear. Two hunters, who had gone out in the morning, returned but had killed nothing, except a beautiful small duck.
182 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
CHAPTER XIX.
Wednesday 9. The morning was pleasant; we there- fore loaded our canoes and proceeded on till 11 o'clock when we stopped at a large Indian village on the north side; but a number of the huts were unoccupied. They are of the Al-e-is nation. At the time we halted three canoe loads of them were scitino- out for the falls to fish. We took breakfast here and bouo;ht five dogs from them. The women all wear the small leather bandage, but are quite naked otherwise, except what is covered by the small robe they wear round their shoulders. In the afternoon the weather became cloudy and some rain fell. In the evening we came to a large rapid at the lower end of Strawberry island; where there are a number of natives about settling on the north side. Here we crossed over, after buying two dogs from them, and encamped behind tlie island. Some rain continued falling.
Thursday 10. A party of men went out to collect pitch to repair one of our canoes, which was split, and the rest went round the point of the island, and took the canoes over the rapid, one at a time, with the assistance of a line. When we got over the rapids we crossed to another village of the natives on the north side, where I saw the skin of a wild sheep, which had fine beautiful wool on it. Here we took breakfast and waited the arri- val of the other canoe, which in about an hour came up; and the men which went out for pitch killed three deer. We proceeded on, and the water was so rapid, that we had to tow the canoes up by the line almost all the way to the landing at the lower end of the portage, distance of about six miles. In passing a bad place the tow-line of the small canoe, which the hunters had on ahead, broke; but fortunately there was nothing in her, as the three hunters, were on shore dragging her up, and had taken out all the loading. As she passed by us Captain Lewis got some of the natives to bring her to shore. In the evening we got to the end of the portage, which is about two miles. We took our baggage to the top of the hill
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 183
and remained with it all night; during which some show- ers of rain fell.
Friday 11. We had a cloudy morning. All our men, who were able set out to take the canoes through the grand shoot. About 1 o'clock we got two over; and then proceeded to take two more, which we succeeded in after great toil and danger; and three hunters went on ahead in the least.
Saturday 12. This morning was wet. We all set out to take the other canoe over; but after we had fastened the rope to her she swung out into the current, which was so strong, that it pulled the rope out of the men's hands and went down the river. We then went to carry our baggage across the portage, which was a very fatiguing business; but about sunset we got all over. It rained at intervals all day; and upon the very high mountains on the south side of the river, snow fell and continued on the trees and rocks during the whole of the day. We had a number of the natives about us in the day time; but they left us at night. We encamped, all excessively fatigued, at the upper end of the portage.
Sunday 13. This was a cloudy morning. Having divided the load of the lost canoe among the four that were left, we renewed our voyage and passed a large deserted village on the north side. Captain Lewis with the two small canoes, crossed to the south side, where there is a large village inhabited, to endeavor to purchase a small canoe or two, as we were very much crowded in the four we had. Captain Clarke with the two large canoes continued on along the northern shore, till we passed Crusatte's river, when the wind rose so high we could not go on, so we halted and waited for Captain Lewis. Two hunters went out about three hours, but killed nothing. By this time the wind fell and we went on three miles to a better harbor, where we halted on the north side of the river. Captain Clarke and three men went out to hunt; and Captain Lewis having come up and crossed over to us, we fixed our camp for the night. He got two canoes and three dogs from the inhabitants of the large village. They are of the Wey-eh-hoo
184 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
nation and liavo twelve lodges here. At dark Captain Clarke and the party returned, and had killed two deer.
Monday 14. The morning was fine with some fog. Aboiu 9 o'clock our three hunters, who had gone ahead and proceeded up Crusatte's river some distance returned, having killed four deer. At 10 o'clock we continued our voyage, and at one came to a new settlement of the natives on the north side, where we saw some horses, the first we have seen since October last. These horses appeared in good case. The wind blew hard from the southwest and the weather was clear and cool, but there has been no frost lately, except on the tops of the high hills. We stayed here three hours and then proceeded on; passed several Indian camps, and halted at a small creek on the north side, where there are a number of Indian lodges.
Tuesday 15. The morning was fair. The Com- manding Officers attempted to purchase some horses, but could not agree with the Indians on the price; so we pro- ceeded on about four miles to another village, at the mouth of Cataract river. Here we got some Shappe-leel, a kind of bread the natives make of roots, and bake in the sun; and which is strong and palatable. Here another trial was made to get some horses, but whhout success; and we again proceeded on; passed a place where there was a village in good order last fall when we went down; but has been lately torn down, and again erected at a short distance from the old ground where it formerly stood. The reasons of this removal I cannot conjecture, unless to avoid the fleas, which are more numerous in this country than any insects I ever saw.* About 3 o'clock in the afternoon we came to Rock Camp, where we stayed two days as we went down. Some hunters went out in the evening and killed a deer.
* "We had however the curiosity to visit the houses (of a deser- ted villajje) which were erected upon posts; and we suffered very severely from the indulgence of it; for the floors were covered with fleas, and we were immediately in the same condition, for which we had no remedy but to take to tlie water. There was not a spot round the houses, free from grass, that was not alive, as it
wore,
with this vermin." M'Kenzie.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 185
Wednesday 16. This was a pleasant day. As we did not expect to be able to navigate the<!)o]umbia river much furiher. Captain Clarke, with some of the men and some goods went over the river to endeavor to pro- cure some horses. I was out hunting this morning and killed a rattlesnake among the rocks. Some hunters that went out in the morning returned in the evening and had killed two deer, some ducks and four squirrels, three of a beautiful speckled kind, and as large as a common grey squirrel, but the tail not so bushy.
Thursday 17. This was a fine morning. Some hunters went out and we remained at this camp all day ; in the eveningr our huntsrs came in and had killed a deer. We made 12 packsaddles. Captain Clarke still remams over the river.
Friday 18. W^e had fine weather and all set out from this place, and proceeded on with great difficulty and danger to the foot of the long narrows ; and expect to be able to take the canoes no further. Here we met one of the men from Captain Clarke with four horses. In coming up, one of our small canoes got split so that we were obliged to carry the load two miles by land to this place. Wood here is very scarce, as the Columbia plains have commenced- Several of the men went up to the village with their buffalo robes, to dispose of them for horses. Could we get but 12 horses we would be able to go by land.
Saturday 19. The morning was cloudy and all hands were engaged in carrying the baggage and canoes over the portage, which is two miles in length. Five more horses were got in the course of the day. Some light showers of rain fell in the afternoon, and about 4 o'clock, we got all our baggage and canoes across except the two large ones, of which we made firewood. At the same time Captain Clarke and four men went on ahead to tJie village at the great falls to endeavor to get some more horses, by the time we arrive there, a distance of about eight miles from this village. In the evening the weath- er cleared up and we had a fine night.
Sunday 20. This was a pleasant morning with some
186 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
white frost. We got two more horses and lost one; remained here all day and had a grcat deal of trouble with our horses, as they are all studs, and break almost every rope we can raise. We had to tie them up at night, and one broke away notwithstanding all our care and attention. We have also much trouble with the Indians as they are disposed to steal whenever they have an opportunhy. With all our care they stole four or five tomahawks.
Monday 21. This was another pleasant morning with some white frost. We found the horse, which had broke away last niglit, and made preparations for setting out from this place. While we were making prepara- tions to start, an Indian stole some iron articles from V among the men's hands; which so irritated Capt. Lewis, that he struck him ; which was the first act of the kind, that had happened during the expedition. The Indians however did not resent it, otherwise it is probable we would have had a skermish with them. This morning we disposed of our two canoes and used another for fire- wood. At 10 o'clock we set out from the first narrows with nine horses of our own and one we borrowed, and two canoes all loaded heavy. I went v/ith three other men in the canoes, and had some difficulty in passing the short narrows. About three in the afternoon we arrived at the great falls of Columbia, where we met with Capt. Clarke and the men that were with him. Here we got another horse; carried our canoes and baggage round the falls and halted for dinner. We also got some dogs and shapeleel, which we subsist on chiefly at present. We halted here two hours and then proceeded ^on again. The party that went by land had to leave the river, and take out to the hill a part of the way. I crossed with my canoe to the south side where there is the best water, and passed a large rock island, opposite to which the Sho-sho-ne river flows in from the south. We went on till dark, and then run our small canoe among some willows, and laid down to sleep. We did not make any fire for fear the savages, who are very numerous along this part of the river, might come and rob us.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 167
Tuesday 22. This was a pleasant morning and high wind. We proceeded on about three miles, when the wind became so violent, that we could not proceed any further, and halted and unloaded our canoes. Having remained here two hours, the other canoe came up, and we proceeded on though the wind was high and the river rough. At sunset I crossed over, where the party going by land came in sight, and halted at a small village on the north side; but the other canoe kept on along the southern shore. In the course of this day two more horses were procured, and at this small village we got some more dogs and shapaleel.
Wednesday 23. We had a cloudy morning. I went also by water to day, and we had a very laborious work in getting along. In the evening we met the party at a large village of the Wal-la-waliz nation on the norih side of the river, where the other canoe had also arrived. Here we halted, unloaded the canoes and encamped. A horse had got away last night and could not be found.
Thursday 24. The weather was pleasant. We lost another horse last night, and were detained here this morning, looking for him. We got six horses at this place, three of which were borrowed from an Indian who was going with his family along with us. We sold our two small canoes; and at noon an Indian who had gone to look for the lost horse returned with him. At 2 o'clock we all started by land on the north side of the river, accompanied by several of the natives with their families and horses. We entered the low country, the great and beautiful plains of Columbia, and proceeded on till evening when we encamped at two mat-lodges of the natives, and got two dogs and some shapaleel. The natives who were traveling in our party encamped with us.
Friday 25. The morning was pleasant, and we set out early. At 10 o'clock we met a great many of the natives on horseback, who turned back with us. At noon we came to a very large band of the Wal-a-waltz nation, the most numerous we had seen on the Columbia; I sup- pose it consisted of 500 persons, men, women, and child-
188 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
dreii; and all of them tolerably well clothed with robes of the skins of the deer, the ibex or big horned animal and buffalo. They have a great many horses and lately came to the river to fish for salmon. We halted here two hours and then went on. The men in general com- plain of their feet being sore; and the officers have to go on foot to permit some of them to ride. We went 13 miles and encamped at a small grove of willows. There being no other wood for a considerable distance.
Saturday 26. Last night Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke got each a horse, and we set out early, had a fine morning, and proceeded on very well, most of the men having their knapsacks carried on the horses. At noon we halted and took a little of our dried meat, which is the only food we have. At 2 o'clock we continued our journey, and the officers were obliged to go on foot again, to let some of the men ride whose feet were very sore. The country is level and has a most beautiful appearance. On these plains there is a species of clover, as large as any I have seen; and has a large red handsome blossom. The leaves are not quite so large as those of the red clover cultivated in the Atlantic States, but has seven or eight leaves on a branch. We were overtaken and pass- ed by a great number of the natives, with large droves of horses, that looked well and are in good order. We traveled about 25 miles and encamped at a small grove of willow.
Sunday 27. The morning was cloudy with some light showers of rain; and about 9 o'clock we proceeded on through the plains, accompanied by a great many of the natives. Some light showers of rain fell at intervals during the day; and after halting about two hours we continued our journey to sunset, when we came to a large village of mat-lodges, belonging to the Wal-la-wal- las, who have encamped here on the north side of the river. Here we remained all night, and the natives were good enough to supply us witli some faggots of brush, they had gathered in the plains from sage bushes, which grow in great abundance on some parts of these plains and arc very large.
AS RELATED BY PATRICKGASS. 189
Monday 28. The morning was pleasant, and we spent it with the Indians, and got dogs, fish, shapaleel and roots from them. At 10 o'clock we began to take our horses over the river at this place, as we can lesson our journey considerably by crossing: We borrowed canoes from the natives, and swam the horses along side, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon had them all landed safe, after a good deal of trouble. From this place we can discover a rano;e of mountains, covered with snow, in a southeast direction and about fifty miles distant. In the evening the weather was cloudy, and it thundered and threatened rain, a few drops of which fell. We remain- ed here all night, and about dark above a hundred of the natives came down from the forks to see us. They joined with those of this place and performed a great dance. We were a very interesting sight to the sur- rounding crowd, as nine-tenths of them had never before seen a white man.
Tuesday 29. The natives remained about our camp all night; and we bought some dogs and a horse from them. The day was fair and we got all our baggage transported to the south side of the river. Here are a great many of the natives encamped on a large creek, which comes in from the south, and those on the north side are moving over as fast as they can. We encamped on the creek, and got three horses, some dogs, shap-a- leel, some roots called com-mas and other small roots, which were good to eat and nourishing.
Wednesday 30. This was a cloudy morningy and we staved here till about 11 o'clock to collect our horses, got two more; and have now altogether twenty-three horses. We then set out from W^al-la-wal-la river and nation; proceeded on about fourteen miles through an extensive plain, when we struck a branch of the Wal- la-wal-la river, and halted I'br the night. We saw no animals or birds of any kind, except two pheasant, one of which Captain Clarke killed. The whole of this plain is of a sandy surface and affords but thin grass, with some branches of shrubs which resemble sage or hyssop. On the south side of this branch the soil is of
190 JOURxVAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
earih and rich, covered with grass, and very handsome. We are still accompanied by several of the natives.
Thursday, Mav 1, 1806. Some rain fell durinij the niizht. and the morning continues cloudy. We set out early and traveled up the branch, which is a fme stream about 20 yards wide, with some colton-wood, birch and willows on its banks. One of four hunters, who went forward very early this morning, returned at noon with a beaver he had killed; other game is scarce. We then halted to dine, where the road forks, one goi.jg up the branch an east course, and the other north towards the large river. Here our Indians differed in opinion with respect to the best road to be taken. The man with the family and gang o^ horses said he would go across to the Great river to-morrow; but we followed the opinion of the young man our guide, and proceeded on up the creek. W^e traveled about 25 miles, and encamped without any of the natives except our guide, who generally keeps with the hunters, one of whom killed a deer this evening. The higher we go up the creek the cotton wood is larger and more plenty; and the plains beautiful.
Friday 2. A fine morning. Last night about 9 o'clock, three of the Wal-la-wal-las came up with us, and brought a steel trap that had been left at our camp on the north side of the Columbia, opposite the mouth of Wal-la-wal-la river; perhaps one of the greatest instances o^ honesty ever known among Indians. Some hunters \vent on ahead, and having collected our horses, we found one missing; some of the men went to look for him, and brought him back. We then continued our journey up this branch; and saw to our right a range of hills covered with timber and snow, not more than ten miles distant. We went fifteen miles and encamped on the north fork, the creek havinij forked about two miles below our encampment. The south fork is the largest, and from its course is supposed to issue from those snow topped hills on our right. In the evening our hunters joined us, and had killed only one beaver and an otter. Tiie three Indians remained with us all day; and at night \re set three steel traps, there being a great many beaver aigQf on this branch.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 191
SaturJay 3. We had a wet uncomfortable morning, and when the horses were collected one was found mis- sinsr, and one of our hunters went back after him, while the rest of us contmued our journey. 1 his morning our guide and the three other Indians went on ahead. We continued our route about ten miles, when we struck a creek, having left the other entirely to our right; and halted. Our hunters came up with the horse. The wind was very high this forenoon, and rather cold for the season; with some rain. We continued about two hours and eat the last of our dried meat; and are altogether without other provisions, as our stock of dogs is exhaust- ed, and we can kill no game in these plains. In the evening we met a chief and nine of his men, who ap- peared glad to see us. W^e encamped on a small branch or spring, as it was too far to go over the hills. The Indians say we can get over to-morrow by noon. The wind continued to blow hard and some snow showers fell in the afternoon.
Sunday 4. We had a severe frost last night; and the morning was cold and clear. We were early on our march over a handsome plain; and came to another creek, which we kept down until we came to Lewis's river, some distance below the forks of Koos-koos-ke; where we halted at an Indian lodge, and could get noth- ing to eat, except some bread made of a kind of roots I was unacquainted with. We had, however, a dog, which we bought from the Indians, who met us last night; but this was a scanty allowance for thirty odd hungry men. We remained here about two hours, got a dog, and pro- ceeded up the south side of Lewis's river, about three miles, when we met with one of our old chiefs, who had come down with us last fall; and who advised us to cross the river, as the best road is on the north side. We therefore were occupied in crossing, during the remainder of the day as we could raise but four small canoes from the natives at this place. We, however, by dark got all safe over, and encamped on the north side, accompanied by a great many of the natives, who appear a friendly and well disposed people.
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CHAPTER XX.
Monday 5. We had a fine morning, and proceeded on early, accompanied by our old chief and a number of the natives. About 10 o'clock we passed the forks, and kept along the north side of Koos-koos-ke; at noon we halted at three lodges of Indians, where we got three dofs and some roots. We also got one of our horses, which we had left here last fall in the care of the old chief who is now with us; and says that the Snake guide, who deserted us last fall, stole and took two of our horses with him. We remained here about an hour, and then continued our journey; came to a large lodge of the natives, at the mouth of a creek, where we encamped. This lod^e is built much after the form of the Virfi^inia fodder houses; is about fifty yards long, and contains twenty families. We here could get no provisions but shap-a-lecl and roots.
Tuesday 6. This was a cloudy wet morning; and we stayed in our camp. Captain Lewis and Capt. Clark acted as physicians to the sick of the village or lodge, for which they gave us a small horse, that we killed and eat, as we had no other meat of any kind. We contin- ed here until about 3 o'clock, when we started and went on about nine miles, and encamped close to a lodge of the natives.
Wednesday 7. This was a fine morning, and we continued here till after breakfast, when we proceeded on about four miles to another Indian lodge, at the mouth of a small creek, where we had to cross the river again, in order to get to a better road. At this lodge the natives found two canisters of ammunition, which we hoxl buried last fall on our way down, and which they took care of and returned to us safe. All the Indians from the Rocky Mountains to the falls of Columbia, are an honest, ingen- ious and well disposed people; but from the falls to the seacoast, and along it, they are a rascally, thieving set. We were here detained about three hours in crossing, as we had but one canoe to transport ourselves and baggage.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 193
We then proceeded over a large hill and struck a small creek, about five miles below the place, where we made our canoes in October last. Here we encamped for the night, accompanied by two Indians, one of which can speak the Sho-sho-ne or Snake language. We will therefore be able to hold some conversation with the natives in this part of the country, as our squaw is of the Snake nation.
Thursday 8. The morning of this day was pleasant; and we remained here some time, to endeavor to kill some deer; and the hunters were sent out. Here some of the natives came to our camp, and informed us, that we could not cross the mountains for a moon and a half: as the snow was too deep, and no grass for our horses to subsist on. We have the mountains in view from this place, all covered white with snow. At noon our hunters came in and had killed four deer and some pheasants. About 3 o'clock we continued our journey; passed over a very high hill, and encamped on a small run; where we met our other old chief, who went down the river with us last fall. He told us that his men had found our saddles, where we had hid them, and that he had them safe. He also gave us an account of thirty-six of our horses, and where they were.
Friday 9. This was a cloudy morning; some hunters went out, and we proceeded on'tbr about six miles, when we came to the old chief's lodge, where his family is encamped to gather roots. W^e have now got into a part of the country where timber is plenty, chiefly pitch pine.
Between the great falls of the Columbia and this place, we saw more horses, than I ever before saw in the same space of country. They are not of the largest size of horses, but very good and active. At noon two of the Indians went to look for our horses, and the old chief who with one of our men who knew where some powder and ball was buried, went to bring our packsaddles. In the evenino; they all returned with 21 horses and about as many packsaddles. Our horses are generally in good order. Our hunters also returned but had killed nothing.
Saturday 10. At dark last night the weather became 13
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cloudy and it rained about an liour v/hcii the rain turned to snow, and it continued snowing all night. In the morning the weather became clear. Where we are lying in the plains the snow is about five inches deep; and amidst snow and frost we have nothing whatever to eat. Without breakfast we started to go to a village of the natives, who live on a branch of the river, about a south course from this place. We traveled through the snow about 1 2 miles, and then went down a long steep descent to the branch where the villaEre is situated. When we were about half ways down the hill there was not a par- ticle of snow nor the least appearance of it. It was about 3 o'clock when we arrived at the village, and the Commanding Officers, held a conversation with the natives, who informed them that they had not more pro- visions and roots, than they wanted for themselves. They, however, divided their stock with us; and told us what they had given was all they could spare; but drove up some horses and told us to shoot one, which we did. They then offered another, but that- was reserved for another time, and we dressed the one we had killed; and in our situation fmd it very good eating. We remained here all night. One of the hunters who had gone on before the party did not join us yet.
Sunday 11. This was a fine clear morning; and we lay here all day. The natives treat us very well; the Officers practice as pliysicians among their sick, and they gave them a very handsome mare and colt. About 12 o'clock our hunter came in and brought two deer with him. We now find a great many more men among the Indians than when we went down last fall; and several chiefs, which had then been out at war. In the evening the natives brought in six more of our horses.
Monday 12. ^Vg had another fine morning and remained here also to day. The natives in the course of the day gave us four horses, one of which we killed to eat. We also got bread made of roots, which the natives call Ca-was, and sweet roots which they call Com- mas. In the afternoon they brought three more of our old stock of horses.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 195
Tuesday 13. We had a fine morning wiili wliite frost. Having collected our horses we found we had 60 and all pretty good except four, which were studs and had sore backs. At noon we proceeded down the branch, which has a good deal of cotton wood, willow and cherry trees on its banks ; and is a bold rapid stream about 15 yards wide. We kept down the branch about four miles ; and then came to the river where it passes through a beautiful plain. Here we halted to wait for a canoe, which we expected that some of the natives would bring up the river, to assist us in crossing, when we intend to encamp until the snow shall have sufficiently melted to admit of our crossing the mountains. At dark the canoe came; but it being too late to cross we encamp- ed on the south side.
Wednesday 14. The morning was pleasant with some white frost. Three hunters went over very early to the north side of the river. All the rest of the men were employed in collecting our horses and taking over the baggage. About noon we got all the horses and bagijage over safe: and met with one of our hunters, who had killed two bears, some distance off. So two1 men were dispatched wuh him to bring in the meat; and we set about forming a camp at the remains of an ancient village on the north side of the Koos-koos-ke river. We were accompanied by a number of the natives, one of whom gave us a horse; and three more of our old stock were brought in by them. In the afternoon we had an operation performed on seven of our horses, to render them more peaceable; which was done by one of the natives upon all but one. In the evening the men came in with the meat of the two bears; and also our other hunters who had killed three more, all of the grizly kind. We gave some of the meat to the natives at our camp, who cooked it in their own way; which was done in the following manner. They first collected some stones and heated them, upon which they placed a pact of the meat, and upon the meat some small brush, and so alternately meat and brush, until all the meat was on; when the whole was covered with brush and lastly with
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 197
earth ; so that the heap or mass had something of the appearance of a small coalpit on fire. An hour and a half was necessary to cook it in this way. The natives remained at our camp all night.
Thursday 15. This was a fine morning, and some hunters went out early. The rest of the party were engaged making places of shelter, to defend them from the stormy weather. Some had small sails to cover their little hovels, and others had to make frames and cover them with grass. Around our camp the plains have the appearance of a meadow before it is mowed, and atfords abundance of food for our horses. Here we expect to remain a month before we can cross the mountains. The natives stayed all day at our camp; and one of them had round his neck a scalp of an Indian, whh six thumbs and four fingers of other Indians he had killed in battle, of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake nation. The nation here the Cho-co-nish, is very numerous, as well as the other. These nations have been long at war and destroyed a great many of each other in a few years past.
From the Mandan nation to the Pacific ocean, the arms of the Indian, are generally bows and arrows, and the war-mallet. The war-mallet is a club with a large head of wood or stone ; those of stone are generally
Note — "The warriors, for such it is only who suffer this punish- ment, now perform in a more prolix manner this sad solemnity- They recount with an audible voice all the brave action they have performed, and pride themselves in the number of enemies they have killed In this rehearsal they spare not even their tormentors, but strive by every provoking tale they can invent, to irritate and insult them. Sometimes this has the desired effect, and the suffer- ers are despatched sooner than they otherwise would have been.
There are many other methods which the Indians make use of to put their prisoners to death; but these are only occasional; that of burning is most generally used.
This method of tormenting their enemies is considered by the Indians as productive of more than one beneficial consequence. It satiates, in a greater degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which is the predominant passion in the breast of every individual of every tribe; and it gives the growing warriors an early propensity to that cruelty and thirst of blood, which is so necessary a qualifi- cation for such as would bo thoroughly skilled in their savage art of war."
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covered with leather, and fastened to the end of the club with tliongs or straps of leather and the sinews of ani- mals.*
In the afternoon two of our hunters came in and had killed nothing but some grouse, four more continued out.
Friday 16. The morning was cloudy and some raio fell ; but in about two hours it cleared away and we had a fine day. An Indian performed the quieting operation on two more of our horses. In the eveninor two more of our hunters came in, and brought with them two deer and some ducks. Two of the hunters still remained out. The natives all left our camp this evening.
Saturday 17. We had a cloudy wet morning and some lio-ht rain all dav. Our other two hunters came in and had killed two large bears. They said it snowed on the hills, when it rained at our camp in the valley.
Sunday 18. The morning was cloudy, but without rain; and ten of the party turned out to hunt. None of the natives visited us yesterday, or to day; until about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, when five' came that I had not seen before. They remained about an hour and had some eye water put into their eyes which were sore; after which they went away, and an old man and his wife came for some medicine, as the old woman was sick. In the evening four hunters came in and had killed nothing, but some grouse.
Monday 19. We had a cloudv wet mornins:. The old Indian and his wife staid all ni^rht and o-ot more medicine. A party of the men went to some Indian lodges about four miles up the river to buy roots; and in the afternoon returned with a good many of them. Seve-
* The publisher has seen one of these stone heads, lately found at Hatfield, the farm of Mr. David Davis, three miles from Pitts- bnrirh, on the Allegheny river. It is of a hard species of stone and weighs seven ounces. It is nearly spherical with a groove cut round to hold, as is supposed, the strap by which it is fastened to the club. ]\Ir. Gass says it is exactly like those he had seen to the westward. There is perhaps nothing which in form it so much resembles as a common round pincusliion. In close combat the war-mallet, when skillfully wielded, must be a destructive and deadly weapon.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 199
ral of the natives came to our camp Avith the men and in the evening all went away. AV'e got another of our old stock of horses; and have now all we left except three; two of which the old Snake guide took with him. At dark two of our hunters came in but had not killed any thing. The day was fair during the whole of the afternoon.
Tuesday 20. We again had a very wet morning. Two more of our hunters came in, but had kdled nothing, It continued raining till about noon, when we had fair weather whh some sunshine. The hunters said it also snowed on the hill to-day, where they were hunting, while it rained at our camp. About 2 o'clock in the afternoon, another hunter came in and brought a deer he had killed. In the afternoon four of our hunters again went out. In the evening there were some light showers.
Wednesday 21. This was a cloudv mornins'. Two more hunters went out; and some men set about making a canoe to fish in, when the salmon came up, as we do not expect to leave this place before the middle of June. To day we made a small lodge of poles and covered it with grass, for Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, as their tent is not sufficient to defend them from the rain. At 10 o'clock the weather became clear, and in the even- ing, was cold.
Thursday 22. We had a fine clear morninii with some white frost. At 3 o'clock five of our hunters came in with five deer; previous to which we had killed a fine colt. In the afternoon we saw a great number of the natives on horseback pursuing a deer on the opposite side of the river. They drove it so hard that it was obliged to take the water, when some of our men went down the bank and shot it, and the natives got on a raft and caught it. These Indians are the most active horse- men I ever saw: they will gallop their horses over pre- cipices, that I should not think of riding over at all.
The frames of their saddles are made of wood nicely jointed, and then covered with raw skins, which when they become dry, bind every part tighi, and keep the
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joints in iheir places. The saddles rise very high before and behind, in ihc manner of the saddles of the Span- iards, from whom they no doubt received the form; and also obtained their breed of horses. When the Indians are going to mount they throw their buffalo robes over the saddles and ride on them, as the saddles would other- wise be too hard.
CHAPTER XXI.
Friday 23. We again had a fine morning. One of our sergeants shot a deer at a lick close to our camp, and ^vounded it very bad, but it got to the river and swam over. Two young Indians who had been at our camp all night, then mounted their horses, swam over and drove it back; and we killed it and gave them half of it. The river is about two hundred yards wide and cold and :rapid. In the afternoon all the hunters came in but had killed nothing more. .
Saturday 24. This was another fine morning, and two liunters went out. One of the iTen ihat was sick, still keeps unwell, wdih a bad pain in his back; and is in a helpless state. Yesterday we gave him an Indian sweat and he is some better to-day.
Sunday 25. This was a cloudy morning, and some light showers of rain fell. Five more hunters went out to-day. In the evening of yesterday two of the natives brought an Indian to our camp, who had lost the use of his limbs, to see if the officers could cure him, and to day we gave him a sweat. Our interpreter's child has been very sick, but is getting better. In the afternoon the two hunters who went out yesterday returned; but had not killed any thing. The weather became clear and we had a fine evening, and three more hunters went out.
Monday 26. This day was fine and pleasant, and we
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 201
finished our canoe and put her into the water. In the afternoon two hunters came in, but had not killed any- thing: they had procured some roots at a village about fourteen miles up the river. Our stock of provisions is exhausted, and we have nothing to eat but some roots, which we get from the natives at a very dear rate.
Tuesday 27. The morning was fair and pleasant, and several of our men went to the villages around us to procure roots. These roots are a good diet, but in gen- eral we do not relish them so well as meat. We there- fore killed another horse to day, which one of the natives gave us sometime ago for that purpose. He was so wild and vicious that we could not manage him, or do any thing with him.
Our sick man is getting some better, and the interpre- ter's child is recovering fast. The Indian, that we have under cure, had another sweat to day; and our horses, that have had the quieting operation performed on them are all mending. In the afternoon some rain fell, and three of our hunters came in, and brought with them five deer; they had killed: three men also came in from the villages and brought a good supply of roots; six yet remaining out.
Wednesday 28. This was a cloudy foggy morning. Some hunters went out this morning, and in the afternoon three of them came in with eight deer; at the same time three more of our men returned from the villages.
Thursday 29. The morning was cloudy and wet, and the river is rising very fast, which gives us hopes that the snow is leaving the mountains. At 10 o'clock the river ceased rising and the weather became clear.
Friday 30. The morning was fine, with a little fog. Two of our men in a canoe attempting to swim their horses over the river, struck the canoe against a tree, and she immediately sunk; but they got on shore, with the loss of three blankets, a blanket-coat, and some arti- cles of merchandize they had whh them to exchange for roots. The loss of these blankets is the greatest which hath happened to any individuals since we began our voyage, as there are only three men in the party, who
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have more than a blanket apiece. The river is so high that the trees stand some distance in the water. In the afternoon one of our hunters came in, who with another had killed three deer, which one||^them stayed to take care of as their horses had left them.
Saturday 31. AVc had a fine clear morning with a heavy dew. The hunters went out with two horses for the venison ; and two men went over the river to the villa- ges. About noon a deer was seen swimming the river and some of our men killed it. Our canoe still lies under water at the opposite shore, but we have a small Indian canoe, that serves to cross in. In the afternoon the two men came from the village with some of the natives, and one of our old stock of horses; which is the last, except the two which they assure us the old Snake guide took. In the evening the weather became cloudy, and we had some rain with sharp thunder and lightening. The two hunters came in with the venison.
Sunday, June 1, 1806. We had a fine morning after some li"ht showers of rain during the nisfht. Since last evening the river rose eighteen inches. Two hunters went out this morning, and some of the natives came to see us. The sick Indian is getting much better. The officers got some bear skins from the Indians, that are almost as white as a blanket. They say that the bears from which they get these skins are a harmless kind, and not so bold and ferocious as the grizly and brown bear. '
Monday 2. The morning was cloudy, and six of the men went out to hunt. About noon three men, who had gone over to Lewis's river, about two and a half days' journey distant, to get some fish, returned with a few very good salmon, and some roots which they bought at theditferent villages of the natives, which they passed. One of these men got two S|)anish dollars from an Indian for an old razor. They said they got the dollars from about a Snake Indian's neck, they had killed some time a2;o. There are several dollars among these people whi ch they get in some way. ^^'e suppose the Snake Ind ians, some of whom do not live very far from Ne w 3Iexico, get them from the Spaniards in that quar-
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 203
ter. The Snake Indians also get horses from the Span- iards. Tlie men had a very disagreeable trip as the roads were mountainous and slippery. They saw a number of deer, and Si the ibex or big-horn.
Tuesday 3. This was a cloudy morning with a few drops of rain; and there were some light showers during the forenoon a! • intervals. The river rises in the night and falls in the day time; which is occasioned by the snow melting by the heat of the sun on the moun- tains, Vv' hich are too distant for the snow water to reach this place until after night. In the evening three hun- ters came in with the meat of five deer and a small bear. Several of the natives continued at our camp.
Wednesday 4. It rained slowlv almost all last nisht, and for some time this morning. The river fell consi- derably yesterday, and in the night rose only an inch and an half. At noon one of our hunters came in with two deer he had killed. The afternoon was clear and pleasant.
Thursday 5. This was a fine pleasant mornmg witli heavy dew. In the afternoon four hunters came in with the meat of five more deer, and a bear. An Indian came with them, who had been part of the way over the moun- tains; but found the road too bad and the snow too deep to cross; so we are obliged to remain where we are some- time longer.
Friday 6. The morning was pleasant, and Captain Clarke and five of the party went over the river to buy some roots at the villages, and in the evening returned with a good supply accompanied by some of the natives.
Saturday 7. We had a cloudy morning with a few drops of rain. I went over with live of our party to the village, on the other side of the river; and while we were going some snow fell. The greater part of the natives were out huntmg. In the evening we all returned to camp, except two, who remained at the village. Some of the natives again came to visit us, one of whom gave a horse to one of our men, who is very fond of conver- sinor with them and of learnincr their language.
Sunday 8. This was a pleasant morning; and our
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two men came over from tlio village, and a hunter, who had been out, returned without killing any thing. Seve- ral of the natives still slay about our camp, and are of opinion we cannot cross the mountains for some time yet. We, however, mean to remove a short distance to where the hunting is better.
Monday 9. This was a fine pleasant day. We caught all our horses and hoppled them, so that we might get them easily to-morrow. We also exchanged some mares with young colts, and some of the horses who had not got quite well, for others more capable of bearing the fatigue of crossino- the mountains.
Tuesday 10. We collected all our horses, but one, and set out accompanied by several of the natives, travel- ed about 12 miles and arrived at what we call the Com- mas flat, where we first met the natives after crossing the Rocky Mountains last fall. Here we encamped and some hunters went out. The com-mas grow in great abundance on this plain; and at this lime looks beautiful, being in full bloom with flowers of a pale blue color. At night our hunters came in and had killed one deer.
Wednesday 11. We had a fine morning wiih some while frost. Several of the men turned out to hunt; and returned at noon having killed a bear and two deer. In this plain there are the most strawberry vines I ever saw, and now all in blossom. This j)lain contains about two thousand acres, and is surrounded with beautiful pine timber of different kinds. The soil is very good; the underwood among the limber chiefly service-berry and goose-berry bushes. In ihe evening several of the men started, with an intention of encamping out, to hunt; and one went back to our late camp to look for the horse, which had been left behind. The natives all left us and we remained in quietness by ourselves.
Thursday 12. We had a fine lovely morning with a heavy dew. 1 went out with some of the party to hunt; about 8 o'clock the musketoes became very troublesome; and at ten all came in without any success. About the same lime the man, who had gone back for the horse returned with him. About an hour after four hunters,
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 205
■who had been out during the night came in ; three of them had been without success, but the other brought in two deer. There are a good many deer here, and some bears, but they are very wild, as they are much pursued by the natives. There is no game of any other kind, except squirrels and some other small animals. The squirrels are about the size of our common grey squir- rels, and very handsome. They are of a brown grey color, beautifully speckeled with small brown spots, and burrow in the ground. We killed several of them since wo came to this camp. The magpie is also plenty here, and woodpeckers of a different kind from any I had before seen. They are about the size of a common red-headed woodpecker; but are all black except the belly and neck, where the ends of the feathers are tipped with a deep red, but this tipping extends to so short a distance on the feathers, that at a distance the bird looks wholly black. In the afternoon one of the natives came to our camp, and one of the two hunters that were out, returned but had killed nothing. In the evening some hunters went out with intention to stay all night. The Indian who came to our camp said he had a notion to cross the moun- tp.ins with us.
Friday 13. This was a fine morning, and a hunter or two went out. The Indian exchanged horses with one of our men, whose horse had not recovered, and was unable to cross tha mountains; and then went home to the village. At noon two of our men took their loads and went on ahead about eight miles to a small prairie to hunt until we should come up. During the afternoon the men who went out yesterday to hunt returned with eight deer. In the evening the weather became cloudy. The musketoes are very troublesome.
Saturday 14. We had a cloudy morning. Some hunters again went out; at 10 o'clock one came in with a deer; and in the evening the rest of them, but they had not killed any thing.
Sunday 16. This was a cloudy wet morning with some thunder. We left Com-mas flat to attempt to cross the mountains; and had sixty-six horses, all very good.
20G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
We ascended a high mountahi wiih a good deal of diffi- cidiy, as the path was very slippery, but got over safe to a small j)rairie, where the two men, who had gone on ahead had killed two deer and hung them up. ^Vc took the meat, and proceeded down the hill and found the hunters, who had killed another deer. We halted at a creek and took dinner; then proceeded over a very diffi- cult road on account of the fallen timber. We had rain at intervals during the forenoon, but the afternoon was clear. We encamped in a small glade where there was plenty of grass for the horses.
Monday 16. We had a pleasant morning, and renew- ed our journey; went up a handsome creek about three miles, and then took to the hills which are very rough \viih a great many banks of snow, some of them four or five feet deep. These banks are so closely packed and condensed, that they carry our horses, and are all in a thawing state. We halted for dinner at a handsome stream where there was some grass for our horses; and in about two hours proceeded on again,' and had some rain. In the afternoon we found the snow banks more numerous, extensive and deep: in some of them the snow was as much as eight feet deep. In the evening we came to Hungry creek (where Captain Clarke killed ahorse last fall and left it for the party) and encamped, that our horses might g3t some grass as we do not expect they will get any sooii again; and there is not much here.
Tuesday 17. This was a cloudy morning, but without rain. We early continued our march; took down Hun- gry creek about six miles, and then took up a large mountain. When we got about half way up the moun- tain the ground was entirely covered with snow three feet deep; and as we ascended it still became deeper, until we arrived at the top, where it was twelve or fifteen feet deep ; but it in general carried our horses. Here there was not the appearance of a green shrub, or any thing for our horses to subsist on; and we know it cannot be better for four days march even could we find the road or course, which appears almost impossible, without a guide
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 207
perfectly acquainted with the mountains. We therefore hahed to determine what was best to be done, as it appear- ed not only imprudent but highly dangerous to proceed without a guide of any kind. After remaining about two hours we concluded it would be most adviseable to go back to some place where there was food for our horses. We therefore hung up our loading on poles, tied to and extended between trees, covered it all safe with deer skins, and turned back melancholy and disappointed. At this time it began to rain; and we proceeded down to Hungry creek again; went up it about two miles, and encamped for the night where our horses could get some- thing to eat. The grass and plants here are just putting out, and the shrubs budding. It rained hard during the afternoon.
Wednesday 18. The morning was cloudy and seve- al showers of rain fell during the day. We started about 8 o'clock, and found the roads very slippery and bad. Two men went on ahead to the vilhige to enquire for a guide, and two more remained to look for two horses that could not be found. We proceeded on whh four ^iienin front to cut some bushes out of the path; but did not go far till one of the men cut himself very badly with a large knife; when we had to halt and bind up his wound. We again went forward, and in crossing the creek the horse of one of our men fell with him, threw him off, hurt his leg and lost his blanket. We halted for dinner at the same place where we dined on the 16th and had a gust of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, which lasted an hour, when the weather cleared and we had a fine afternoon. We continued our march till we came to a small glade on the branch of a creek, where we encamped, and some hunters went out in the evening; we had left two men to hunt at the place where we dined. We found the musketoes very troublesome on the creek, notwithstanding the snow is at so short a distance up the mountains. At night our hunters came to camp, having killed nothing; but saw some large fish in the creek, which they supposed were salmon.
Thursday 19. This was a fine morning; some hun-
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tcrs went out and wg agreed to stay here all day that our horses miwhi rest and feed. At 10 o'clock our hunters came in and had killed a deer. Two men are trying to take some of the fish with a gig. At noon the two men who had been left at Hungry creek to look for the horses came up, but had not found them: and with them the two hunters, who were left at the place we dined yesterday; and had killed two deer. In the even- ing one of the largest fish was caught which we found to be a salmon-trout.
Friday 20. This was a fine morning; we caught six of the salmon-trout; and some hunters went out. About 9 o'clock one of them returnea and had killed a brown bear. The musketoes and gnats are very troublesome. In the evening the other hunters came in and had killed only one deer.
CHAPTER XXn.
Saturday 21. We had again a fine morning; and we collected our horses in order to return to Com-mas flat. We proceeded on to a creek, where Ave met two young Indians, who said they were coming to go over the moun- tains with us. We halted here for dinner; after which all our party proceeded on to Com-mas flat, except myself and two men who remained here to hunt. We wish to kill as much meat as v.ill serve the party, until we get back where our loading was left, as we have plenty of roots there to serve us over the mountains. One of our best horses got snagged to day, and was left liere. The two Indians remained with us, and in the evening one of the men killed a deer.
Sunday 22. We had a pleasant day. The two hun- ters went out early and the Indians remained with me at camp. At noon the hunters came in, but had killed
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 209
nothing but one small pheasant. In the evening they made another excursion, but were unsuccessful.
Monday 23. We had again a fine morning; and the men went out to hunt. While thev were out the two Indians went on. About 10 o'clock the hunters came in without having kdled any thing; and at noon two men came to our camp with orders for four of us to follow the Indians, if they were gone, until we should overtake them, and get them to halt if possible, till the party should come up; but if not, to follow them on and blaze the way after them; as the man who had gone to inquire for a guide had not returned, and it was not known whether he would get one or not. The men said they had good luck at the Com-mas flat, having killed ten deer and three bears. I immediately started with three of the men after the Indians, leaving one to take care of the camp, and the lame horse and some more that were there. VVe proceeded on till we came to the creek where we had stayed the 19ih and 20th, and overtook the Indians encamped there, and encamped with them.
They had caught two salmon-trout since they came to this camp; and shortly after we came, one of our men killed a duck; and we remained together during the night.
Tuesday 24. This was a cloudy morning. We gave each of the Indians a pair of moccasons, and they agreed to stay to-day and wait for the party. One of our hunters went out, but had no . success. The day keeps cloudy, and the musketoes are very troublesome. There is also a small black fly in this country, that so torments our horses, that they can get no rest, but when we make small fires to keep them ofl*. At noon two hunters went on ahead to a small creek, to endeavor to kill some pro- visions, as we cannot kill any here; and unless the party come up to night, I intend to go on with the Indians to-morrow morning. In the evening the party arrived with three more Indians, and we all encamped together for the night.
Wednesday 25. There was a light shower of rain this morning. We proceeded forward early; and two men and an Indian were sent ahead to look for the horses 14
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we lefi behind when wo were here before. At noon we halted at ihe creek where two men were hunting, but they had killed nothing. We here took dinner, and pro- ceeded on to Hungry creek, where we met the men with the horses, and encamped for the night. A considerable quantity of rain had fallen during the afternoon.
Thursday 26. We liad a foggy morning; proceeded on early; and found the banks of snow much decreased: at noon we arrived at the place where we had left our baggage and stores. The snow here had sunk twenty inches. We took some dinner, but there was nothing for our horses to eat. We measured the depth of the snow here and found it 10 feet 10 inches. We proceeded over some very steep' tops of the mountains and deep snow; but the snow was not so deep in the drafts between them; and fortunately we got in the evening to the side of a hill v.here the sno"lv was gone; and there was very good grass for our horses. So we encamped there all night. Some heavy showers of rain had fallen in the afternoon.
Friday 27. We had a cloudy morning and at 8 o'clock we renewed our march, proceeding over some of the steepest mountains 1 ever passed. The snow is so deep that we cannot wind along the sides of these steeps, but must slide straight down. The horses generally do not sink more than three inches in the snow; but sometimes they break through to their bellies. We kept on without halting to about 5 o'clock in the evening, when we stop- ped at the side of a hill where the snow was off, and where there was a little grass; and we here encamped for the night. The day was pleasant throughout; but it appeared to me somewhat extraordinary, to be traveling over snow six or eight feet deep in the latter end of June. The most of us, however, had saved our socks as we expected to find snow on these mountains.
Saturday 28. The morning was pleasant, we set out early, and passed the place where we had encamped on the 15ili September last when the snow fell on us. After passing this place about a mile, we took a left hand path, and traveled along high ridges till noon, when we came to a good place of grass; where we halted and remained
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 211
all the afternoon to let our horses feed, as they had but little grass last night. Some hunters went out, as we saw some elk signs here, and our meat is exhausted. We still have a good stock of roots, which we pound and make thick soup of, that eats very well. In the evening our hunters came in but had not killed any thing. On the south side of this ridge there is summer with grass and other herbage in abundance; and on the north side, winter with snow six or eight feet deep.
Sunday 29. This was a foggy morning. We set out early, proceeded over some bad, hills, and came to the old path; at which time there wal a shower of rain, with hail, thunder and lightnii7.g, that lasted about an hour. At 10 o'clock we left the snow, and in the eveninsj we arrived at the warm spring; where we encamped for the night, and most of us bathed in its water. One of our hunters killed a deer where we dined at the glades or plains on Glade creek; and where there is good grass, and com-mas also grows. Two other hunters went on ahead and killed another deer on the way.
Monday 30. ,We continued our march early and had a fine morning. When we were ready to set out, we saw a deer coming to a lick at the hot spring, and one of our hunters shot it. Two hunters went on ahead. At noon another went out a short time, and killed a fine deer. Wc halted for dinner at the same place, where we dined on the 12th of September 1805, as we passed over to the Western ocean. After dinner we proceeded on, and on our way found three deer that one of the hunters had killed and left for us. In the evening we arrived at Travelers'-rest creek, where the party rested two days last fall, and where it empties into Flathead (called Clarke's) river, a beautiful river about one hundred yards wide at this place; but there is no fish of any consequence in it; and accord- ing to the Indian account, there are falls on it, between this place and its mouth, where it empties into the Colum- bia, six or seven hundred feet high; and which probably prevents the fish from coming up. Here we encamped and met with the hunters.
Tuesday, July 1, 1806. We had a fine morning,
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and remained here to rest ourselves and horses afier the severe fatigue of coming over the mountains, and some hunters went out. The Indians still continue with us. Here the party is to be separated; some of us are to go strait across to the falls of the Missouri and some to the head waters of Jefferson river, where we left the canoes. At the falls we expect to be subdivided, as Captain Lewis, myself and four or five men intend to go up Maria's river as far as the 50th degree of lathudc; and a party to remain at the falls to prepare harness and other things necessary for hauling our canoes and baggage over the portage. Perhaps Captain Clarke, who goes up the river here, may also take a party and go down the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow-stone river. In the afternoon our hun- ters came in, and had killed twelve deer, most of them in good order.
Wednesday 2. We continued here during this day, which was fine and pleasant, fixing our loading and making other arrangements for our separation. One of our hunters, went out and killed two deer. The musketoes are very troublesome at this place.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Thursday 3. We had again a fine morning; collected our horses and set out. Captain Lewis and his party went down Clarke's river and Captain Clarke with the rest of the party went up it. All the natives accompani- ed Captain Lewis. We proceeded on down Clarke's river about 12 miles, when we came to the forks; and made three rafts to carry ourselves and baggage over. The river here is about 150 yards wide, and very beau- tiful. We had to make three trips with our rafts, and in the evening got all over safe; when we moved on up the north branch, which is our way over to the falls of the Missouri, and after traveling a mile and a half encamped
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 213
for the ni2;ht. Two hunters went out and killed three deer. The musketoes are worse here than I have known them at any place, since we left the old Maha village on the jMissouri. This north branch of the river is called by the natives Isquet-co-qual-la, which means, the road to the buffalo.*
Friday 4. We had a beautiful morning and waited here some time in order to have a morning hunt, as our guides intend to return, and we wish to give them a plen- tiful supply of provisions to carry them back over the mountains. While our hunters were out a young Indian came to our camp, who had crossed the mountains after us. At 10 o'clock our hunters came in, but had not killed any thing. We were, however, able to furnish them with two deer and a half, from those that were killed yesterday. We then gave them some presents and took a friendly leave of them: audit is but justice to say, that the whole xiation to which they belong, are the most friendly, honest and ingenuous people that we have seen in the course of our vo5"age and travels. After taking ofir farewell of these good hearted, hospitable and obli- ging sons of the west, we prodeeded on up Isquet-co- qual-la a handsome prairie of about 10 miles, after which the hills comes close on the river, on both sides, and we had a rough road to pass. Having made 18 miles we encamped for the night; where the country is very moun- tainous on both sides of the river, which runs nearly east and west, and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide.
Saturday 5. We had another beautiful morning, set out early and proceeded on the same course as yesterday through a rousfh countrv, with a number of branches or small streams flowing from the hills. We killed one deer, and about 1 1 o'clock came to a valley three quar-
* The route taken by Captain Lewis and his party is the direct road to tlie falls of the Missouri, mentioned in Captain Clarke's letter; that taken by Captain Clarke and his party leads to the head waters of the main branch of the Missouri, v/hich they ascended in their outward bound voyage, and which is a considerable dis- tance south of the direct course from the falls to the crossincr place of the great chain of Rocky Mountains.
2U JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
ters of a mile wide, all })lains, where we halted to dine and to let our horses feed. The hills upon each side are handsomely covered with timber of the fir kind. W^bile we rested here one of our hunters killed a cabre or ante- lope. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on again up the valley. When we had gone about nine miles we came to and crossed a river, about 35 yards wide, which flows in with a rapid current from some snow topped mountains on the north, where the valley is two or three miles wide. Having gone about four miles further we came to the head of the valley, where the hills come close upon the river for two miles. After we had passed these nar- rows we came to another large and beautiful valley four or five miles wide, and all plains, except some timber on the river banks. In the evening we encamped on the bank of a handsome creek which comes in from the north, a bold stream of 15 yards wide.
Sunday 6. We had a tine clear mornins; with some white frost, and renewed our journey early; saw a great many service berries, not yet ripe, and some flax which grows on these plains. Having gone about seven miles we crossed a north branch of the Co-qual-la-isquet, which is 40 yards wide and was mid-rib deep on our horses, with a rapid current. About seven miles up the valley we passed a beautiful small lake; where the river and road leaves the valley, and bears towards the north- east between two hills not very largo. We kept up the river, through a small brushy valley about the eighth of a mile wide, for a mile and a half, and then halted for din- ner. Here our two hunters came to us, and had killed a deer. W^e keep two men out every day hunting. In this small valley there is a considerable quantity of cot- ton wood timber; and the musketoes are very trouble- some. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on, passed a number of handsome streams which fall into the river, and a num- ber of old Indian lodges. As we advance the valley becomes more extensive, and is all plain. At night we encamped on a beautiful creek, having traveled twenty five miles. Our hunters killed four deer to day.
Monday 7. ^^'e had a wet night, and a cloudy morn-
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 2l5
ing. Continued our journey early along the valley, which is very beautiful with a great deal of clover on its plains. Having gone about five miles, we crossed the main branch of the river, which comes in from the north: and up which the road goes about five miles further and then takes over a hill towards the east. On the top of this hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size. We passed over the ridge and struck a small stream, which we at first thought was of the head waters of the INIissouri, but found it was not. Here we halted for dinner, and after staying three hours, proceed- ed on four miles up the branch, when we came to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri and Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring the waters of which run into the Missouri. We then kept down this stream or branch about a mile; then turn- ed a north course along the side of the dividing ridge for eight miles, nassino; a number of small streams or bran- ches, and at 9 o'clock at night encamped after coming thirty two miles.
Tuesday 8. The morning was pleasant with some white frost. We started early and proceeded on nearly north; saw several deer, cabre and wolves in the plains, and after going three miles and a half passed torrent creek, a large creek that runs into Medicine river. Shortly after we passed this creek we went off the path or trail, traveled straight across the plains, and in about fifteen miles struck Medicine river, close above the forks where we halted for dinner; and one of our hunters killed a deer and a cabre. In the afternoon we proceed- ed down Medicine river nine miles; and having come in the whole to day twenty eight miles encatnped for the night; and found the musketoes very troublesome.
Wednesday 9. A cloudy morning. We set out early to go down the river; but had not proceeded far until it began to rain, and we halted at some old Indian lodges, where we took shelter. In an hours time the rain slack- ened, and we proceeded on; but had not gone far before it began to rain again, and the weather was very cold for the season. At noon we came up whh our hunters, who
216 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
had killed a large buffalo; so we halted and some of us went and dressed it, and brought in the best of the meat which was very good. A\ e encamped here and lay by duriniT the afternoon as the rain continued durinfj the whole of it.
Thursday 10. At dark last evonino; the weather clear- ed up, and was cold all night. This morning was clear and cold, and all the mountains in sight were covered with snow, which fell yesterday and last night.* At 8 o'clock we started down the river, and in the course of the day our hunters killed five deer, two elk and a bear. The road was very muddy after the rain. The country on both sides is composed of beautiful plains; the river about 80 yards wide and tolerably straight, with some cotton wood timber on its banks; and plenty of game of different kinds ranging through the plains. Having made 24 miles we encamj)ed for the night.
Friday 11. This was a fine morning and we set out early to cross the point, and having, gone eight miles, came to the Missouri at the Boar islands, nearly opposite our old encamjMneiit. Here our hunters, in a short time, killed five bufialo; and we saved the best of the meat; and of the skins made two canoes to transport ourselves and baggage across the river. The buffalo are in large droves about this place.
Saturday 12. Again a fine morning. We went out to collect our horses and found that ten of them were missing. I then set out to look for them, went seven miles up Medicine river, where I found three of them and returned to c#mp. Two more went to hunt for them and the rest of us crossed the river in our new craft which we find answer the jiurpose very well. At night one of the men returned without finding the lost horses.
Sunday 13. The morning was pleasant, and we mov-
* It will not be a subject of surprise that snow siiould fall here in the niidclle of s\uniner, when the elevation of this part of the country, wliich divides the eastern from the western waters, is taken into view. Every person will be able to comprehend, that no small decree of elevation, above its mouth, will be sullicient to give so rapid a course to the Missouri for upwards of 3U00 miles, even supposing there were no great fulls or cataracts.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 217
ed about a mile up to our old encampment; opened a deposit we had made here and found some things spoiled; and the other man that went to look for the horses not being returned we remained here all day airing and sun- ning; the bafTo-aae and stores. The musketoes torment us very much, and the wolves continually howl night and day round our camp.
Monday 14. This was a pleasant morning. We staid here also to day; and ihe musketoes continued to torment us until about noon, when a fine breeze of wind arose and drove them, for a while, away. We deposited the most valuable part of our baggage and stores on a large island so that if the Indians came they would not get it.
Tuesday 15. We had pleasant weather. One of our men started to go down to the other end of the portage, to see if the periogue was safe, which we had left there; and in the afternoon the man who had gone after the horses returned unsuccessful; but as he saw some fresh Indian signs he supposes they were stolen and taken back over the dividing ridge. Capt. Lewis therefore concluded to take fewer men and horses with him than he had intended on his excursion up Maria's river. In the even- ing the man who had started to go to the other end of the portage, returned without being there. A white bear met him at Willow creek, that so freightened his horse, that he threw him off among the feet of the animal; but he fortunately (being too near to shoot) had sufficient pre- sence of mind to hit the bear on the head with his gun; and the stroke so stunned it, that it gave him tmie to get up a tree close by before it could seize him. The blow, however, broke the gun and rendered it useless; and the bear watched him about three hours and went awav; when he came down, caught his horse about two miles distant and returned to camp. These bears are very numerous in this part of the country and very danger- ous, as they will attack a man every opportunity.
Wednesday 16. This was a fine morning. We col- lected our horses, of which Captain Lewis took six and left four to haul the canoes and baggage over the portage ;
218 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
and then started to go up Maria's river with only three hunters. We continued hero to repair our waggons or truckles to transport the baggage and canoes on when the men with them should arrive. The musketoes are still very troublesome.
When Captain Lewis left us, he gave orders that we should wait at the mouth of Maria's river to the 1st of September, at which time, should he not arrive, we were to proceed on and join Captain Clarke at the mouth of the Yellow-ston(' river, and then to return home: but informed us, that should his life and health be preserved he would meet us at the mouth of Maria's river on the 5th of August.
Thursday 17. We had a pleasant day, and high wind; which drives away the musketoes and relieves us from those tormenting insects.
Friday 18. This was another pleasant day, and I went down with three of the men to the lower end of the portage to examine the periogue and deposite there, and found all safe. ^V'e took some tobacco out of the deposit, covered up all again, until the party should arrive with the canoes, and then returned to camp.
Saturday 19. The weather continues pleasant and most of the men are employed in dressing skins, as we have got all ready for crossing the portage as soon as the canoes arrive. The musketoes were very trouble- some to day. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon a sergeant and nine men arrived at our camp with the canoes and some ba^cragc. They informed me that thev had a o;ood passage over the mountains to the Missouri; and on their way saw a boiling hot spring, which in twenty five min- utes would boil meat put into it quite well and fit for eating. This s[)ring is on the head waters of Wisdom river. They had got to the canoe deposite on the 8th inst. and found every thing safe: the whole party then came down to the forks at the mouth of Jefferson river; where Cai)tain Clarke with ten men and the interpreter left them and went up Gallatin's river in order to cross over to the Jaune, or Yellow Stone river. They had plenty of provisions all the way. In the evening we hauled the canoes out to drv.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 219
Sunday 20. We had a fine day; but the musketoes were very bad. We concluded to stay here all day, as the men who had come with the canoes, \vere fatigued; and in the evening tried our horses in harness and found they would draw very well.
Monday 21. A pleasant morning. One of the men went out for the horses; and the rest of us put two canoes on the wagons, and moved them forward by hand sonae distance, when the man returned without finding; the hor- ses. Two more then went out to look for them, and at noon came back without finding them. In the afternoon some more men went to look for them, who at night returned also without seeing any thing of them; and we lay where the canoes were all night.
Tuesday 22. We had a fine morning. Eight of us started in various directions to look for the horses, and in a short time two of the men found them; harnassed them in the wagons and moved on about four miles, when one of the axletrees broke; and they returned to the river to mend it. Myself and one of the men did not return till dark, and then came to the place where the canoes were upon the plains, with some of the men. Here a heavy shower of rain came on whh thunder and lightning; and we remained at this place all night.
Wednesday 23. This was a pleasant morning after the rain; and I went with the man who c.anie with me last night, and joined the party at the river. They had repaired the wagons and put on two more canoes; one of which was very large and gave us a great deal of trouble, as we could not make axletrees out of the willow that would stand more than six or eight miles. At 5 o'clock we got to Willow creek, and encamped for the night; and made a new axletree. In our way to day one of the men cut his leg very bad with a knife, which so lamed him that he had to ride in one of the canoes.
Thursday 24. This was a cloudy morning. I was very much indisposed last night and am yet very unwell. I therefore staid at this camp, and the paity went back for two more canoes. About 3 o'clock one of the wagr- gons with a canoe arrived, and the party with it; having
220 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
let the horses feed a wliile, and taken dinner, they pro- ceeded on to Portage river. About an hour after they started a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, came on, and lasted about an hour and a half. After this we had a fine evening, and a little before sunset the other wagon with a canoe arrived; when we encamped for the night. The man who cut his leg is still very lame and continues at this camp.
Friday 25. This was a fine morning with a very heavy dew. The party set out early to Portage river with the 'canoe; and in a short time the men with the other wagon came back; I was by this time so much recovered as to be able to return whh the party for another canoe; which is all we will bring over, as the other is very heavy and injured; and we expect that the five small ones with the periogues will be sufficient to carry ourselves and baggage down the Missouri. About 2 o'clock the wagons met at Willow creek, when we had another very heavy shower of rain accompanied with thunder and liahtninfj. At 3 o'clock we set out with both the wagons and two canoes to Portage river; it rained hard on us all the wav, and the road was so mud- dy that the horses were not able to haul the loads, without the assistance of every man at the wagons. At night we arrived at Portage river, and then had four canoes there safe.
Saturday 26. The morning was cloudy. Eight of us went back to Willow creek for the other canoe, and the rest of the party were employed in taking down the canoes and baggage to the lower end of the portage, wdiere the periogue had been left. It rained very hard all night, which has made the plains so muddy, that it is with the greatest dilHculiy we can get along with the canoe;. though in the evening, after a hard day's labor we got her safe to Portage river, and the men run her down to the lower landing place, where we encamped. A {(iw drops of rain fell iii the course of the day.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 221
CHAPTER XXIV.
Sunday 27. Is a fine clear pleasant morning, myself and one of ilie men crossed the river with the horses, in order to go by land to the mouth of Maria's river: the rest of the party here are to go by water. We proceeded on through the plains about twenty mjiles, and in our way saw a great many buffalo. We then struck Tansy or Rose river, which we kept down about ten miles and encamped. The land along this river is handsomely covered with Cotton wood timber and there is abundance of game of different kinds. In our way we killed a buffalo and a goat. The w^olves in packs occasionally hunt these goats, which are too swift to be run down and taken by a single wolf. The wolves having fixed upon their intended prey and taken their stations, a part of the pack commence the chase, and running it in a circle, are at certain intervals relieved by others. In this man- ner they are able to run a goat down. At the falls where the wolves are plenty, I had an oppotunity of seeing one of these hunts.
Monday 28. The morning wj\s fine and pleasant, and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In our way we killed six goats or antelopes and seven buffalo; and about 1 o'clock came to the point at the mouth of Maria's river, where we met with the party who had come down from the falls by water, and who had just arrived; and also unexpectedly with Captain Lewis and the three men who had gone with him. They had joined the party descending the river this forenoon, after riding one hundred and twenty miles since yester- day morning, when they had a skermish with a party of the Prairie Grossventres, or Bigbellied Indians who inha- bit the plains up Maria's river; of which they gave the following account. On the evening of the 26th Captain Lewis and his party met with eight of those Indians, who seemed very friendly and gave them two robes. In return Captain Lewis gave one of them, who was a chief.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 223
a medal; and they all continued together during the night; but after break of day the next morning, the Indians snatched up three of our men's guns and ran off with them. One Indian had the guns of two men, who pur- sued and caught him, and one of them killed him with his knife; and they got back the guns. Another had Captain Lewis's gun, but immediately gave it up. The party then went to catch their horses, and found the Indians driving them off; when Captain Lewis shot one of them, and gave him a mortal wound; who notwith- standing returned the fire, but without hurting the Cap- tain. So our men got all their own horses, but one, and a number of those belonging to the Indians, as they ran oft' in confusion and left every thing they had. Our men then saddled their horses, and made toward the Missouri as fast as p'ossible; after Captain Lewis had satisfied himself with respect to the geography of the countrv up iMaria's river.
We this day took the articles out of the place of depo- sit, and examined the large red periogue we left here, and found it too rotten to take down the river. We therefore took what nails out of it we could, left our horses on the plains and proceeded down the river. About the time we started, a heavy gust of rain and hail accompanied whh thunder and lightning came on and lasted about an hour, after which we had a cloudy wet afternoon, and in the evening we encamped about twenty five miles below the forks.
Tuesday 29. Early in a cloudy morning we com- menced our voyage from the mouth of Maria's river; and the current of the Missouri being very swift, we went down rapidly. At noon we saw some Ibex or Bighorns at the entrance of a range of high rough hills; and we halted and killed two of them. Having dined we pro- ceeded on again, and in our way, during the afternoon, killed seven more of these mountain sheep. There are few other animals in this range of high country. In the evening we encamped opposite the mouth of Slaugh- ter river, and Captain Lewis had four of those animals skeletonized, to take with him to the seat of Government
224 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
of the United States. A considerable quantity of rain fell in the course of the day.
Wednesday 30. We embarked early in a cloudy morning with some rain. On our way through this liigh range of mountains, we killed four more of the large horned animals, two buffalo, two beaver and a bear.
The water of the river is very thick and muddy, on account of the late falls of rain, which wash those clay hills very much. We went down the river upwards of 70 miles to day, and encamped on a prairie island. Hea- vy rain fell at intervals during the day.
Thursday 31. We set out early, though it continued at intervals to rain hard; about 10 o'clock we saw a great gano; of elk on a small island, where we halted and in a short time killed fifteen of them. We took the skms and the best part of the meat, and proceeded. At noon we halted to dine, and had then a very heavy shower of rain. W^e also killed another of the Large horned ani- mals or mpuntain sheep. We remained here about an hour, then proceeded on, and will soon be clear of this range of high rough country. In our way this after- noon, we killed two mule and twelve other deer, and two beaver. Though the afternoon was wet and disagreea- ble, we came 70 miles to day.
Friday, August 1, 1806. We embarked early in a wet disagreeable morning, and hi a short time saw a large brown or grizly bear swimming in the river, which we killed, and took on board; passed the mouth of Muscle shoal river; and at noon halted to dine at some old Indian lodges. Captain Lewis being afraid from the dampness of the weather, that the skins he had procured of these big-horned animals would spoil, thought it advi- sable to stay here this afternoon and dry them by a fire in these old lodges: and some of the men went out to hunt. About an hour after we landed here, a large bear came so close to our camp, that one of the men shot and killed it from our fire. In the evening our hunters came in and killed several deer. The afternoon was cloudy with some rain; and having made a fire and put the skins to dry with two men to attend them, made our arrangements for the night.
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 225
Saturday 2. This was a fir>e clear morning, and Capt. Lewis thought it best to stay here to day also and dry our baggage, as it was becoming damp and wet. Two hunters were sent on in a canoe to hunt; and in the course of the day we got every thing dry and ready to set out the next morning.
Sunday 3. We had a fine morning, and at 6 o'clock got under way and proceeded on. Having gone 10 miles we came up with the hunters who had killed 24 deer. We went on very rapidly and saw great gangs of elk feeding on the shores, but few buffalo. At sunset we encamped having gone 73 miles.
Monday 4. This was another pleasant day and we proceeded on early. One of the small canoes with two hunters did not come up last night. We left another small canoe with some hunters behind and proceeded on. We went very rapidly, and in our way killed a buffalo, and some deer. At 5 o'clock we passed the mouth of Milk River, which was very high and the current strong. Having proceeded 88 miles we encamped for the 'night.
Tuesday 5. Last night was cloudy and thunder was heard at a distance. About midnight the small canoe we left yesterday came floating down with the current, and would have passed us if our sentinel had not hailed it: the hunters in it killed a bear and two deer. This morn- ing was also cloudy, and we halted here till noon in expectation that the other canoe would come down ; but there was then no appearance of it; and we began to suspect it had passed in the night. The forenoon had become clear and pleasant, and at noon we got under way. As we went on we killed a very fat buffalo and some deer; and two hunters who went on ahead in the morning killed two very large brown bears. At sunset we encamped, and at dark a violent gust of wind and rain came on with thunder and lightning, which lasted about an hour; after which we had a fine clear night.
Wednesday 6. We embarked early, and had a fine morning, but high wind. At 12 o'clock the wind blew so violent that it became dangerous to go on, and we halted; and some of the men went out and shot a large
15
226 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
buck, but not dead and he got into the river; when two of them pursued in a canoe and caught him. Having remained here three hours, we again went on until night and encamped. We have yet seen nothing of the two hunters who had been left behind in the small canoe.
Tliursday 7. The morning was cloudy, and we set out early, after a very heavy shower of rain, which fell before daylight. We proceeded on very well, and about 4 o'clock arrived at the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. We found that Captain Clarke had been encamped on the point some time ago, and had left it. We discover- ed nothing to inform us where he was gone, except a few words written or traced in the sand, which were " W. C. a few miles further down on the right hand side.^^ Captain Lewis having left a ^e\y lines for the two men in the canoe, to inform them, if they are still behind, where we were gone, we continued our voyage. At night we encamped after coming above 100 miles; and though dark killed a fat buffalo at the place of our en- campment.
Friday 8. We had a fine clear cool mornincp with some white frost; proceeded on early and in a short time passed one of Capt. Clarke's camps. At 9 oclock we halted to repair the periogue, and to dress some skins to make ourselves clothing. The musketoes are more trouble- some here than at any other place since we left the falls of the Missouri. A party of men went out to hunt and killed some elk and deer; the rest were employed in dressing deer and cabre skins.
Saturday 9. This was another fine day; and most of the men were employed as yesterday; and in making small oars tor our canoes. Two of them went over the river and killed an elk and a deer.
Sunday 10. We had a fine morning and were em- ployed in repairing the periogue and dressing skins, until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we got the per- iogue completed, loaded our craft, and at 4 o'clock pro- ceeded on to the mouth of White-earth River, and encamped opposite it on the same bottom, where we encamped on the 21st of April 1805. In the afternoon
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 227
some drops of rain fell; and the musketoes here were very bad indeed.
Monday 11. The morning was pleasant; and we set out early; passed Captain Clarke's encampment of the 8ih instant, and proceeded on to the burnt bluffs, where we saw a gang of elk fe;eding. The canoes were then sent to shore whh a party of men to endeavor to kill some of them; and we proceeded on whh the per- iogue. In about a half a mile further we saw another gang, when we halted and Captain Lewis and one of the men went out after them. In a short time Captain Lewis returned wounded and very much alarmed; and ordered us to our arms, supposing he had been shot at by some Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I went out with three men to reconnoitre and examine the bushes, which are very thick at this place, and could see no Indians; but after some time met with the man who went out with Captain Lewis, and found on inquiry that he had shot him by accident through the hips, and without knowing it pursued the game. Having made this dis- covery, we returned to the periogue; examined and dressed Captain Lewis's wound; and found the ball, which had lodged in his overalls. The canoes having come down we proceeded on, after dressing two elk that had been killed at this place, and passed an encamp- ment which Captain Clarke had left in the morning. We found here a note informing us, that the Indians had stolen all the horses v/hich he had sent with a sergeant and parly from Yellow Stone Eiver, and that the ser- geant with the party came down in skin canoes and met him at this place. We then proceeded on some distance and encamped.
Tuesday 12. The morning was pleasant, and we proceeded on. Captain Lewis is in good spirits; but his wound stiff and sore. Having gone about nine miles we met with two men on the river trapping and hunting. Capt. Lewis gave them some ammunition, and directions with respect to the river above. They informed us that Captain Clarke and party had passed them yesterday at noon. We proceeded on and at 10 o'clock overtook Captain Clarke and his party, all in good health. The
228 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
two men with the small canoe, who had been some time absent, came down and joined at the place where we met with the two strangers: and now, (thanks to God) we are all together again in good health, except Captain Lewis, and his wound is not dangerous.
After the Cor|)s were separated among the mountains, as before mentioned. Captain Clarke's party proceeded on to the Canoe deposit, near the head of the mam branch of the Missouri (called Jefferson's River) and having descended with the canoes to the mouth of the branch, which they called Gallatin, Captain Clarke with 10 men left those, who were to take down the canoes to the falls; traveled three days up Gallatin's River towards the south, when they crossed a ridge and came upon the waters of the Jaune or Yellow-stone River. Having gone about 100 miles down this river by land they made two canoes, and Captain Clarke having sent off a sergeant and three men Avith the horses to the Mandan villages, went down himself with six other men bv water. On the second day after the sergeant and his party had started for the Mandan villages, the Indians stole the whole of the horses, and the party were obliged to descend the river in skin canoes. Captain Clarke's party in their route had found game plenty of different kinds, buffalo, elk, deer, beaver, otter and some other animals. They also found the Yellow-stone River a pleasant and navigable stream, with a rich soil along it; but timber scarce.
We here took the men on board, and left the buffalo canoes. At night we encamped on a sand beach, as the musketoes are not so bad there as in the woods.
Wednesday 13. After a stormy night of wind and rain, we set out early in a fine morning; about 9 o'clock passed the little Missouri and went on very well during the whole of the dav. In the eveninsj those in some of the small canoes, which were ahead, saw Indians, who fled before they could speak to them. At night we encamped opposite an old wintering village of the Gross- ventres, which had been diserted some time ago.
Thursday 14. The morning of this day was pleasant, and we embarked early. In a short time we arrived near to our old friends the Grosventres and Mandans;
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 229
and fixed our encampment in a central position, so as to be most convenient to the different villages. The inhab- itants of all the villages appear very glad to see us, and sent us presents of corn, beans and squashes.
Friday 15. We had a fine clear pleasant morning, and cominued here all day, to ascertain whether any of the chiefs would go down with us or not. They had to hold councils among themselves, and we had to wait for their answers. The two hunters we left up the river came down, staid with us here, and got one of our party to join in partnership with them, and to return up the rivers Missouri and Jaune to hunt.
Saturday 16. This was a fine cool day; and we yet remained here, waiting an answer from the natives. Some of these Indians are very kind and obliging; fur- nishing us with corn, beans and squashes; but there are others very troublesome, and steal whenever they have an opportunity. Yesterday and to day, they stole sever- al knives and spoons; and three powder horns, and tw^o pouches filled with ammunition.
In the afternoon the chief, called the Big-White, con- cluded to go down with us, and we agreed to stay until 12 o'clock to-morrow; that he might have an opportunity to get ready for his voyage and mission. The command- ing officers gave discharges to the inan who agreed to return wiih the hunters up the river, and the interpreter; who intends settling among these Indians, and to whom they gave the blacksmiths tools; supposing they might be useful to the nation. They also gave a small piece of ordnance to the Grossventers, which they appeared very fond of.
Sunday 17. There was some flying clouds this morning, and the weather was cold for the season. The two strange hunters, with the man who had received his discharge and was to go up the river with them, went on early. We lashed our small canoes together, two and two, as we expect they will be more steady this way and carry larger loads. At noon we dropped down to the village of the Big- White: and he, his wife and child, with Geesem the interpreter for the Big-White, his wife
230 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
and two children embarked in two of our canoes to go to the United States. We proceeded on at 2 o'clock; the wind was high, and river rough; and in the evenuig we encamped having descended about 20 miles.
Monday 18. We set out early in a cloudy morning, and the wind hiiih. At 10 o'clock we killed two deer, when we halted lor an hour and cooked some venison. In the evening we encamped, and some of the men went out and killed five or six more deer.
Tuesday 19. This was a cloudy windy morning; and the water rough, that our small canoes could not safe- ly ride the waves: so we remained here and several of the men went out to hunt. We do not go on so rapidly as we did higher up the river; but having lashed our canoes together we go on veVy safe, and can make 60 or 60 miles a day. Captain Lewis is getting much better and we are all in good spirits. At 3 o'clock in the after- noon the wind ceased, and we proceeded on, and met with our hunters on the bank, who had killed six elk and 11 deer. We took the meat on board, proceeded on, and encamped on a sand-beach.
Wednesday 20. We embarked early after a heavy gust of wind and rain, and proceeded on very well. The forenoon was cloudy, without rain; and in the after- noon the weather became clear and pleasant. We went about seventy miles, and encamped; where we found the musketoes very troublesome.
Thursday 21. We proceeded on early and had a fme morning. At 10 o'clock we arrived at the first village of the Rickarees, and halted. In our way here we met three Frenchmen in a canoe; one of them a young man, who formly belonged to the North West Company of traders, wished to go with us to the United States; which our commanding othccrs consented to, and he w^as taken on board one of our canoes. When we halted and land- ed at the villages, the natives generally assembled, and Captain Clarke held a council with them; when they declared they would live in peace with all nations; but that their chiefs and warriors would not go to the United Slates at present, as they had sent one chief already,
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 231
and he had not returned. Thsre are also a great many of the Chien, or Dog nation encamped hero, in large handsome leather lodges; and who have come to trade with the Rickarees for corn and beans, for whicli they give in exchange buffalo meat and robes. They are a very silly sujoorstiiious people. Captain Clarke gave one of their chiefs a medal, which he gave back with a buffalo robe, and said he was afraid of white people, and did not like to take any thing from them: but after some per- suasion he accepted the medal, and we left them.* Here a Frenchmen joined us to go to St. Louis, who was in the service of the commanding officars; and we dropped down to the village on the island, and encamped for the night.
CHAPTER XXV.
Friday 22. This was a cloudy wet morning, after a night of hard rain, and we stayed at this village to 12 o'clock. The natives used us friendly and with kindness; gave us corn and beans with other articles; but none of them would go down with us. At noon we got under way; and having proceeded twelve miles the weather became clear, and we halted to dry our bagf^age, which got very wet last night. At 4 o'clock we again went on, and had a fine passage till night, when we encamped.
Saturday 23. We set out early in a fine morning, but the wind was high; and we went on very well till near noon, when the wind blew so hard that we had to halt, and were detained about four hours. Three hun- ters went on ahead by land, and when we had overtaken
* We think that some further proof is necessary to establish the weakness and superstition of these Indians. Had the chief perse- vered in the rejection of the medal, we, instead of thinking him silly and superstitious, would have been inclined to the opinion, that he was the wisest Indian on the Missouri.
232 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
them they had killed two elk and some deer, and we halted to lake in ihe meat. Here we had a very heavy shower of rain, which detained us another hour. We encamped at night and found the musketoes very trouble- some.
Sunday 24. We had a fine morning, and went on very well till noon, when the wind rose and blew so strong that we were obliged to halt. Having lain by three hours we again proceeded, but did not go far before we were oblig:'d on account of the wind, again to stop, and encamp for ths night.
Monday 25. The morning was again pleasant, and we proceeded on early, having sent forward two small canoes with five men to hunt. When we had gone 12 miles, we came to the mouth of the Chien River, where we halted and staid till noon, for the purpose of taking an observation. Some of the men went out to hunt, and while we remained here, killed three small deer. At half past 12 o'clock we proceeded on again, and in a short time overtook our canoes with the hunters, that had gone on ahead, and killed three deer. In the evening we encamped in a handsome bottom, and a hunter killed another deer.
Tuesday 26. We set out early, and had a pleasant morning; passed Teeton River, but saw no signs of the Teeton band of the Sioux nation. In the evening we passed Landselle's fort; but found no persons inhabiting it. At dark we encamped after coming about sixty miles.
Wednesday 27. We again had a pleasant day and embarked early: proceeded on till we came to the upper end of the Great bend, and there stopped to hunt.* As our hunters saw some game, we in a short time contin- ued our voyage round the bond ; at the lower end of
* In a former geographical note (pa. 62) we stated that the place where Mr, Thompson, Astronomer to the North West Company, took his observation n the year 179:5 to ascertain the latitude and longitude of the northern bend of the Missouri, was near the longitude of the Mandan villages. If what Mr. Thompson called the northern b nd is the same with what Mr. Gass calls the great bcud (of which there appears little doubt) the longitude
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 233
which we killed an elk. As we were passing an island we saw a gang of buffalo feeding on it; when we halted and killed three of them, and encamped on the island for the night.
Thursday 28. We had another pleasant day; embark- ed early, and proceeded on till about 11 o'clock, when we arrived at Pleasant camp, and halted. We left the camp on the 18th September 1806. The commanding officers wishing to procure and take down with them the skeletons of some more deer, and cabre; and knowing that there were but few of those animals lower down the river; continued here the remainder of the day, and sent out six or eight hunters; who returned at night without finding any of the wished for animals, but killed some fat buffalo and common deer.
Friday 29. The morning was cloudy and some hun- ters went on ahead very early; while we amused our- selves till 10 o'clock gathering plums, of which there is great abundance at this place. We then went on, and passed White River on the souih side. The Missouri here is very full of sand bars and shoals, and we find difficulty in getting along. About 2. o'clock we halted to kill some buffalo, but were unsuccessful, and we pro- ceeded, till evening, and encamped.
Saturday 30. VV^e had a pleasant morning, and went on early, three hunters starting ahead. We killed some buffalo and elk in our way, and about 2 o'clock met a band of the Teetons, fifty or sixty in number, and halted on the opposite side of the river as we did not wish to have any intercourse with them. Here we waited for three hunters, who were behind; and during our stay eight or nine of the Indians swam to a sand bar about
of the Mandan villages will be between two and three degrees west of the northern, or great bend; or in about longitude 104 degrees west of London, 29 degrees west of Philadelphia, JH degrees west of the mouth of the Missouri, and nearly 23 degrees east of the mouth of the Columbia. This will slill show the great errors of those maps of Louisiana, which place the Mandan villages 20 degrees west of the longitude of the confluence of the M ssouri and Mississippi; and less than 12 degrees east of that of the mouth of the Columbia.
234 JOURXAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
60 yards from us, and we found that they were the same rascals, who had given us trouble as we went up. We could not convjrsii with th^m, but one of our men understanding the language of the Ponis, of which they understood some words; we through him let them know that we wanted nothing to do with them; and that if they troubled us, we would kill every one of them. They then withdrew, and the whole party left the river and went oif to the hills. Our thrje hunters returned, and we proceeded on, and in the evening encamped on a sand bar in the river.
Sunday 31. This was a cloudy morning, after a disagreeable night of wind and hard rain. We set out early; went on very well all day, and in the evening encamped, where we found the musketoes very trouble- some.
Monday September 1, 1806. This was a fine pleas- ant day and we set out early, and about 10 o'clock met nine of the Yonktin band of the Sioux nation of Indians on the south side of the river. We halted and save them some corn, and then proceeded on with an unfavor- able wind. At night we arrived at our encampment of the 31st of August 1804, whore we held a treaty with a band of the Sioux nation, and encamped for the night.
Tuesday 2. We had a fine morning, but high wind; set out early, and went on till noon, when we halted, and some men went out and killed two fine fat buffalo cows; and brought in the best of the meat. The musketoes are very troublesome. We a2;ain started and went on about two miles, when the wind blew so violent that we had to encamp for the night, on a large sand bar, where the musketoes are not so bad, as where there are woods or bushes.
Wednesday 3. In a pleasant morning we got early under way, and went very well all day. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon, we met a Air. Aird, a trader, who was going up the Missouri, and we encamped with him. At sunsL't a violent gust of wind and rain, with thunder and lightning came on and lasted two hours.
Thursday 4. This was a cloudy morning. We
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 235
exchanged some corn with Mr. Aird for tobacco, which our party stood much in need of; and his party having lost a boat load of provisions on their way up, wanted the corn. We then proceeded on till we came to our old camp near the Maha village, wliere we halted to dry our baggage, which got very wet last night, and remained all night. The natives are all out in the plains.
Friday 5. This was a fine morning, and we early embarked, and went on very well, till night, when we encamped on a sand bar, where the musketoes were very troublesome.
Saturday 6. We set out early in a fine morning, saw a number of pelicans, and about 8 o'clock a gang of elk, when some hunters went out, but returned without killing any. At 11 o'clock we met a barge belonging to a Mr. Shotto, of St. Louis, loaded with merchandize, for the purpose of trading with the Sioux nation of Indians. We got some spiritous liquors from this party the first we had tasted since the 4ih of July 1805, and remained with them about three hours; sent some hun- ters ahead and proceeded on till 3 o'clock in the after- noon, when we halted and waited for the hunters at the place agreed on to meet them, but they did not come in, and we encamped for the night.
Sunday 7. We had a pleasant morning. The hun- ters not having come in, we left a canoe, with directions to wait till 12 o'clock for them; and proceeded on. About 9 o'clock we met with our hunters, but they had not killed any thing; and at 11 halted to hunt and wait for the canoe. In a short time we killed three elk and brought in the meat; and the canoe having come up, we proceeded on, and at sunset encamped. The mus- ketoes are not so troublesome as they were some time ago.
Monday 8. We again had a pleasant morning; and proceeded on early; at 10 o'clock we passed council bluffs where we held the first council with the Ottos on the 1st, 2, and 3, of August 1804, and in the evening encamped on a small island, having gone on very well during the day.
23G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
Tuesday 9. We embarked early, and in a short time passed the mouth of the great river Platte; went on very well all day, and at night encamped on a sand beach opposite the Bald-pated prairie.
Wednesday 10. We had a pleasant morning, embark- ed early and went on very well. At 4 o'clock P. M we met a pcriogue with four men, going to trade with the Loups or Wolf Indians, who live up the river Platte. We remained with these men about an hour, got some whisky from them, and then continued our voyage. In a short time we met another periogue and seven men, going to trade with the Mahas, who live on the Missouri. We staid some time with these men, then proceeded and at night encamped on a willow island.
Thursday 11. We set out early; and had a cloudy morning, and light showers of rain during the forenoon. At two in the afternoon we stopped to hunt, and soon killed two deer and a turkey; then proceeded on and at sunset encamped on an island.
Friday 12. The morning was fine and we again embarked early. In half an hour we met two periogues going up to trade; staid with them a short time and went on. About an hour after we met with a Mr. M'Clelland in a large boat with twelve men going up to trade with the Mahas. Our Commanding Officers were acquainted with Mr. M'Clelland, and we halted and remained with him all day, in order to get some satisfactory information from him, after our lone absence from the United Slates. He, and two Frenchmen who were with him had several- ly instructions from the government to make inquiry after our party; as they were beginning to be uneasy about us.
Saturday 13. We had a pleasant morning after some rain that fell yesterday, and again proceeded on early with unfavorable wind. At 10 o'clock we halted to hunt, staid about three hours and killed four deer. We then continued our voyage to sunset and encamped. We had a few musketocs, but they were not so bad as we had found them higher up the river.
Sunday 14. In a fine morning we proceeded on
AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 237
early and went very well, until 3 o'clock when we met three large baiteaux loaded wiih merchandize, going up to different nations of Indians for the purpose of trade. The people in them were very glad to see us, and gave us some whisky, pork, and biscuit. We remained with them two hours and again went on. We killed five deer on the bank to-day as we floated down: and saw a fine young horse. At sunset we encamped on a small island.
Monday 15. The morning was pleasant and we embarked early. In a short time we killed a fine large elk; at 11 o'clock passed the Kenzon river, and encamp- ed at sunset.
Tuesday 16. This was another pleasant day. We proceeded on early, and at 9 o'clock met a large periogue with eight men, going to trade with the Ponis nation of Indians on the river Platte about seventy or eighty miles from its mouth. At 11 o'clock we met a baiteaux and two canoes going up to the Kanowas nation, who live oq a river of the same name. We halted whh them awhile, then proceeded on, and at sunset encamped on an island.
Wednesday 17. We went on early and had a plea- sant day, but very warm. One of party last night caught a large catfish, supposed to weigh 100 pounds. We got a great many papaws on our way to day: a kind of fruit in great abundance on the Missouri from the river Platte to its mouth; and also down the Mississippi. About 1 1 o'clock we passed through a bad part of the river, where it was so filled w^ith sawyers that we could hardly find room to pass through safe. About two in the afternoon we met a large keel-boat, commanded by a Captain M'Clanen, loaded with Merchandize and bound to the Spanish country by way of the river Platte. He intended to go by land across the mountain, and get the Spaniards to bring their gold and silver on this side, where he could take his goods and trade with them, had fifteen hands, an interpreter and a black. He intends to discharge his men on this side of the mountain, and to get some of the Ponis, who live on the river Platte to accompany him to the Spanish country. Mr. M'Clan- en gave all our party as much whisky as they could
238 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE
drink, and a basf of biscuit. Some of the men were sent on ahead in two small canoes to hunt, and we encamped hero for the night.
Tlmrsday 18. We gave Mr. M'Clanen a keg of corn; took our leave of him and proceeded on. In a short time, passed the mouth of the river Grande, and soon after overtook the hunters, who had not killed any thing. We continued our voyage all day without waiting to hunt; gathering some papaws on the shores, and in the evening encamped on an island.
The 19th, was a fine day, and at day light we contin- ued our voyage; passed the mouth of Mine river: Saw several turkeys on the shores, but did not delay a moment to hunt; being so anxious to reach St. Louis, where with- out any important occurrence, we arrived on the 23d and were received with great kindness and marks of friendship by the inhabitants, after an absence of two yearsj four months and ten days.
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