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LIVINGSTON

AND THE

TOMATO,

BEING THE HISTORY OF EXPERIENCES IN DISCOVERING
THE CHOICE VARIETIES INTRODUCED BY HIM,

WITH

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR GROWERS.

af By
A. W. LIVINGSTON.

PUELISHED BY a
A. W. Livinaston’s Sons, SEEDMEN, No)
COLUMBUS, OHI!O. ~ GF WASH

Entered according to the act of Congress, in the year 1893, by
A. W. LIVINGSTON,

In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.

PRESS OF
JOURNAL-~GAZETTE PRINTING HOUSE,
COLUMBUS, OHIO.

Ye i

INDEX.

I. Skercu or AvutuHor’s LIFE,
Il. Inrropvucrion—Author,

a
Si
wm CO b>

Fa)
a
“ID ON

ra
me
co oO

No. 24.
No. 25.
No. 26.
NoOw2e.
No. 28.
No. 29.

PARAGRAPHS BY NUMBER.

. The First Tomato I Ever Saw,
. My Ain,

My Methods,

. Livingston’s Paragon Tomato,

. Livingston’s Acme Tomato,

. Livingston’s Perfection Tomato,

. Livingston’s Golden Queen Tomato,
. Livingston’s Favorite Tomato,

9. Livingston’s Beauty Tomato,

. Selling Under Seal,

. Livingston’s Paiste. Leat Hots.

. Livingston’s Stone Tomato,

. Livingston’s Royal Red Tomato,

. Livingston’s Gold Ball Tomato,

. Livingston’s Buckeye State Tomato,
. Livingston’s Dwarf Aristocrat Tomato,
. Livingston’s Large Rose Peach Tomato,
. Will your varieties “Run Out?”
9. Can we Cross kinds and get New Ones?

. Can Distinct Varieties be Cultivated be Gaerne

“ Strains?”

. Selected Stock-Seed, :
2. Can Farmers and Market- Ate pa ios their own

Seed ?

Hints to American Goad Tr: ade est ee

Profits on a Tomato Crop,
Selection of Kinds to Plant,
Kinds for Shippers,

Kinds for Home Uses,
Kinds for Market-Gardeners,
Kinds for Canners,

PAGE

8 INDEX.

PAGE |
No. 30. Kinds for Catsups and Preserves, ; ; f 65 |
No. 31. Kinds to grow under Glass, _. 65 |
No. 32. Sowing Seed for Family Use, : : 66 |
No. 33. Common Hotbeds, ; 70 .
No. 34. Sowing Seed in Hotbeds, , ; , 72 |
No. 35. More Extended Hotbeds, , E 74
No. 36. A Circular Hotbed, . , : ; 77
No. 37. Cold-Frames, 7
No. 38. Preparation of Sail in the Open *Hield, 5 82
No. 39. The Marker, . ; : 2 83
No. 40. Transplanting into Open Field, ; 7
No. 41. Implements for Cultivation, . : ; : 92
No. 42. Culture of Field Crop, _. ; , ee
No. 43. Mulching Tomatoes, : F : 95
No. 44. Pruning on Down-Culture, ; 95
No. 45. ‘Staking Up,” ; : ; 96
No. 46. “Tying Up,” ; : : 97
No. 47. Trimming, or Pruning, . ; , ; : 101
No. 48. Growing in Barrels, . : Oe
No. 49. Trellising, 105
No. 50. Culture under Glass, ; ; epepees a |
No. 51. Enemies, Diseases, Remedies, é 115
No. 52. “‘ Damping Off,” ; Paar 5
No. 53. Cutworms, ,; 116
No. 54. Colorado Potato Esos. : 2 > aaa
No. 55. The Tobacco Worm, : 118
No. 56. Blight, sor neied)
No. 57. Black Rot, : : : F ; 122
No. 58. The Borer Worm, 125
No. 59. Harvesting, Marketing, § See and Selling. 126
No. 60. Harvesting, etc., for Shippers, . : sors b
No. 61. Harvesting, etc., for Short Distance Stages 131
No. 62. Harvesting, etc., for Home Market-Gardeners, . Pye
No. 63. The Uses of the Tomato, 137
No. 64. The Extent of Tomato Culture and dade ; epee i

Nore.—See Alphabetical Index at the end of the book.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

R. A. W. LIVINGSTON belongs to that
honorable race of people known in America
as the Scotch-Irish. His parents came from

Cambridge, New York, to Reynoldsburg, Franklin
County, Ohio,—ten miles east of Columbus, the capital
city. The country was a wild wilderness of primeval
forests at that time—1815; and required the labor of a
generation or two of hardy pioneers to clear away.

He was born in 1822, and reared to a life of pion-
eer farming. School privileges were very limited then,
but he learned to spell, read and write well, to “ cipher
in arithmetic as far as the Rule of Three;” and he
often relates how he was privileged to study grammar
for half a day.

At seventeen years of age his mother died, leaving
him at a time when early manhood rejoices in the need-
ed sympathies which a mother can best extend. The
good Book explains it, “as one whom his mother com-
forteth.” |

When twenty-one years old he went to work for a
gardener of the place. He hired to work four months,
at eight dollars per month, only a little over thirty cents
a day. Here he received and-noted valuable items of
information which his ready mind quickly grasped, and

10 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

made the basis of calculations for the future. Indeed, it
is one of the most striking characteristics of his mind
that he was a close observer of all things that passed be-
fore his eyes. Everything different from what he had
before seen was always noted; and it was followed up
to the last change that might possibly occur to it, so
painstaking was he to be accurate in these things. Ifa
bird flew over his head having a new color or note of
song he observed it, and watched it ever after to learn
all that could be known of its habits. If a worm
crawled beneath his feet he did not despise it; but noted
all its goings and doings, and often became, for wise
ends, the defender of those which all sought to kill.
Insects, too, claimed his attention. If the Katydid sang
in the same bush every evening for several months, he
did not accept the statements of the learned who say
(as in Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary, The American
Encyclopedia, and in Natural Histories) that it is the
well-known large green grasshopper. It makes only
similar noises to other grasshoppers, and it hops here and
everywhere, never returning to the same place again at
nightfall; while the Katydid is never seen but is always
heard, there in the same bush or tree, from night to
night, with her unchanging note, “ Ka-ty-did” and
“ Ka-ty-did-n’t.” He takes nothing second-handed
which he can prove for himself; and these tests he pros-
ecutes with willfully persevering patience and zest. His
interest was always keen in all kinds of plants and
weeds. He was at an early age recognized among
neighbors and friends as authority on them, because of

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 11

the closeness and accuracy of his observations. _ Being
of such a turn, and when he reached his majority work-
ing for a gardener and seed-grower, no doubt made a
deep impression upon his active mind and gave it an
early bias and taste for that kind of. business. He did
not then think of becoming a seed-grower himself.

For some months longer he worked by the day at
chopping, ditching, general farming, or anything that
came to hand, never receiving above fifty cents a day for
his work, but never lying idle. Truly times have
changed for the better, though some discontented people
are saying, “Oh, what hard times these are!” By this
time he had grown to be a large, strong man physically,
having excellent health. Ie had also a sunny, gener-
erous, sanguine disposition.

At twenty-three years of age he married Miss
Matilda Graham, a farmer’s daughter, not blessed with
more of this world’s goods than himself, but rich in
health, womanly grace, and that sound good sense
which made her an helpmeet indeed. This union was
blessed in due time by ten children—seven sons and
three daughters—the oldest dying in infancy and the
rest still living, and most of them engaged in some de-
partment of the seed trade.

Mr. Livingston, about a year later, leased a farm of
one hundred and thirteen acres for one hundred and
fifty dollars per year. He engaged in farming,
_trading in stock, growing seed for the trade, and mak-
-ing experiments with vegetables in order to test his
ideas about them; these were of great value in later

f2 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

years. This consumed eleven years of his life, but the
range of experience through which he passed during
that time let him learn the ways of the world, and aided
him to master the business which was soon to claim his
closest attention. By this time he had accumulated
enough to purchase a farm of fifty acres; and about the
same time the seed-grower and dealer for whom he had
formerly labored concluded to move to Iowa. He
bought from him four hundred boxes of garden seeds,
then out on commission. He quit farming altogether
and embarked in the garden seed business exclusively.
For twenty years this commission business steadily in-
creased, until in 1877 he had four thousand four hundred
boxes out in Ohio and the several surrounding States.
During these long years he continued his studies in
the processes of nature, and kept on with careful exper-
iments to secure new and improved vegetables, such as
the trade demanded. He visited many state and county
fairs, learning what he could, and spent hundreds of
dollars to get personally acquainted with growers, and
to know the special needs of market gardeners in all
parts of the country. Whenever he introduced any-
thing new and gave it his endorsement as a good thing,
the leading seedsmen of the country gladly catalogued
them, and do so still. One of them bought enough of
trial packets, of twenty-tive seeds each, to raise five
hundred pounds of seed from them the first year, with-
out having seen them, but solely upon Mr. Livingston’s rep-
utation. Such substantial endorsement of his integrity
and ability has always been received with gratitude
toward his competitors in the same line of trade.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 13

Owing to the severe losses of ’76 and °77, well re-
membered by seedsmen selling on commission through
the merchants of the country, Mr. Livingston concluded
to quit the commission business altogether, and sell di-
rect to growers. He therefore moved to Columbus, O.,
and there made arrangements to carry out those plans,
because he could from this point reach two-thirds of the
United States in twenty-four hours. His motto from
the first was, ‘“* Give every man the worth of his money,”
with the idea that he would be thus (on merit) secured
as a permanent customer. Subsequent events have
shown this to have been a wise move for all concerned.
He also grew specialties on contract for other prominent
seedsmen, who appreciated new vegetables of un-
doubted merit, and whose customers were willing to pay
well for them with their endorsement.

After a few years of this work, his sons having en-
tire charge of the business in Ohio, he set his eye upon
the virgin soils of Iowa, with a view of enlarging this
department of the seed business there. He moved in
1880 to the growing city of Des Moines, Lowa. Here
he tested the suitability of the soil and location for seed
growing, and found it to be most excellent for many
kinds, and then hoped, with the consent of the firm,
A. W. Livingston’s Sons of Columbus, O., to have all
moved in time to the new and thrifty West.

However, under the safe and upright management
of his son Robert, the business in Ohio grew so rapidly
and became so remunerative, that all thought of remov-
ing it West was abandoned by the above firm. But

14 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

being in Iowa himself, and several sons with him, and
the soil so rich and easy to. work, Mr. Livingston con--.
sidered it wise to remain there, and with them engage -
in seed raising, which he did for nearly ten years. He
finally aided and encouraged a younger son, Josiah Liv-
ingston, to commence in the seed business there in
Iowa’s capital city.

Most of the time since he quit the commission busi-
ness has been spent in experimenting with new varie--
ties, and introducing them to the public as soon as ~
found fixed in type and habit of growth ; and also hay- —
ing sufficient distinctness to entitle them to a new place |
and a new name. The account of his experiences in the
Tomato line will be tound in greater detail in the early
paragraphs of this volume. The whole responsibility of
the business has now for some years been in the hands °
of his sons and their growers. By this means, and since
the departure of his wife a few years ago, Mr. Livings-
ton was given what he had always desired, opportunity
to travel everywhere, sell seeds, and learn more about the busi-
ness in his own matchless way—especially what was needed
for market-gardeners. The reader cannot fail to see that,
by nature, by experience, and by application, Mr. Liv-
ingston is fully qualified to do what he tells us he has
done in the body of this book ; and that we have reason
to expect that his bints, directions, and advices on To-
mato Culture will be both practical and lucretive.

Although he was so busy all his life with the work
of his choice, he found time to’ be one of the foremost
men. of his community in all matters of public interest.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. $5

In hospitality, needed improvements, larger educational
facilities, and disinterested liberality, he never took a
second place. In the advanced reforms of his times,
and in the political concerns of his country, he kept him-
self well-informed to date. He was no mean antagonist
to meet in a hand to hand argument on the living ques-
tions of the day. He was not afraid to take advanced
grounds on all important matters, but he was so good-
natured himself, so fair in his treatment of those who
radically diftered trom him, that only in a few instances
did any one ever get angry at him because of his utter-
ances. He aimed to make what he said consistent with
what he did.

From early lite he was Srtnicrad in full member-
ship with the United Presbyterian Church, and has been
an honored officer in it almost ever since. Never is
there a meeting of any kind in his home congregation,
which is not blessed with his presence, counsels, and
prayers. He is a man of large sympathies and vast ex-
periences. Little children run to meet him, young people
confide to him their secrets, all love to see him coming,
for they will learn something useful in life, and nothing
done for his comfort will escape his notice or evade his
high appreciation.

INTRODUCTION.

is has not been my purpose to write an exhaustive
work on this increasingly popular fruit and vegetable.
My aim has been to aid the seedsmen, growers, and can-
ners, to know what time, labor, close application, and
experience in the field have revealed to me that is prac-
tical and for their advantage in Tomato culture. Many
things will not be new to the experienced grower, and
ought not to be; but some things will be novel and use-
ful to many of my readers.

I express my indebtedness to my fellow-seedsmen,
with many of whom, in different parts of the country, I
have exchanged ideas and experiences about the Tomato,
with all freedom. While we do not endorse all the con-
clusions to which experimenters come, and publish in
their Bulletins, yet we strongly endorse the work in
which they are engaged, and acknowledge many useful
suggestions from them, to some of which we give place
here. It would be vastly better for growers if they
were, for all kinds of crops, to take advantage of these
public aids provided for their special benefit by the
States in which they live. Many good points I have
had first suggested to my mind by the frankness with

iL

CO

INTRODUCTION.

which our customers relate their experiences with their
crops. Especially do I acknowledge the aid from grow-
ers Whose ideas and conclusions I have included here
with my own, in order to get to my attentive reader the
greatest amount of knowledge in the most readable
shape. |

Trusting that whoever is influenced by these pages
may reap as the fruits of his labor an abundant harvest,
I submit this ttle book to the thoughtful consideration
otf my readers.

THe AUTHOR.
Columbus, Ohio.

loivinéston and the 4omatoes.

1. The First Tomato I Ever Saw.—Well do I
remember the first tomato I eversaw. I was ten years
old, and was running down one of those old-fashioned
lanes, on either side of which was the high rail fence,
then so familiar to all Ohio people. Its rosy cheeks
lighted up one of these fence-corners, and arrested my
youthful attention.

I quickly gathered a few of them in my hands, and
took them to my mother to ask, “ What they were?”
As soon as she saw me with them, she cried out, “ You
must not eat them, my child. They must be poison, for
even the hogs will not eat them.”

«But what are they, mother?” I asked.

“Some call them ‘Jerusalem Apples;’ others say -
they are ‘ Love Apples;’ but, now mind, you are not to
eat them. You may go and put them on the mantel,
they are only fit to be seen for their beauty.”

This I did, adding purple and yellow ones to this:
red one, and soon had quite a collection on display.
The wild tomatoes bore small, hollow, tough, sour,-
watery fruit. They were no more like the new and

20 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

improved varieties of to-day than the Pennyroyal cattle
then, were like the Shorthorns now seen in our pastures
everywhere.

From that early date the tomato became an object
of special interest to me. Little did I then think, or for
many years afterwards, that it was destined to make my
name famous among seedsmen, market gardeners, can-
ners, and horticulturists the world over, Nor could I
any better foresee that it would furnish myself, my
children, and my children’s children, the necessaries and
many of the comforts of life.

Thus it ever is: Dame Nature richly rewards those
who keep close to her methods of operation, and who
are not ashamed to remain tied to her apron-strings.

As the years passed by reckless people began to
eat them, and as it became generally known that they
were not poisonous, they came into more general use.
New and slightly improved kinds were soon put on the
market; but all eftorts in this line for years did not get
anything other than rough, imperfect fruits.

2. My Aim.—Years had come and gone with me,
as the reader will see by reference to the sketch of my
life in the opening of this book. My aim from the first
was to grow tomatoes smooth in contour, uniform in
size, and better flavored. Here my habits of close ob-
servation upon the processes of nature in all matters of
reproduction stood me in good hand, but were not equal
to the task by the method which I tried at first. For I
tried the best kinds then known to the public, and se-

MY AIM. at

lected from these such SPECIMEN TOMATOES as approached
in qualities what was needed, or was in demand. The
seed from these were carefully saved, and when planted
were given the best cultivation possible, hoping in this
way to attain what I desired. After fifteen years of
the most scrupulous care and labor of this kind, I was
no nearer the goal than when [I started in the race. Ac-
cording to laws of life, now well known, but which I did
not then understand, such stock-seed would reproduce
every trace of their ancestry, viz., thin-fleshed, rough,
and undesirable fruits. I ran this method through all
its changes, for the demand was constantly increasing,
and I desired to get a distinct variety that would have
good qualities and produce after its kind. Like many
others who were striving for the same thing, I wanted
it very badly.

Some improvements, however, were attained, but
mostly by improved conditions only, and as soon as
gained in the least degree, they were put upon the mar-
ket under various names; such were the Fejee, the
Pertected, the Conqueror, the Canada Victor, the Tilden,
the Trophy, and others. With these, with my own, and
with any others I could get hold of that promised me
any gain, I tried again and again by varied selections of
specimens and good cultivation, to attain the desired
end. But I failed altogether. After such long and re-
peated failures it was with little hope that I turned to
other methods.. I did not like to give up, “whipped out
entirely,’ in any matter I had set my mind and heart
upon, as I had in this thing; and [reasoned that I might

22 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

better be tryimg whatever came to hand to do, than to
do nothing. So I kept a watchful eye upon my fields
for any ‘“leadings” that promised to aftord me’ the
smooth, well-flavored fruit, as we see it now in all the
markets of the world.

3. My New Method.—Whether this method I
here describe was new to others at that time (in the
Sixties) I did not know, but it was altogether new to
me; in fact it was a pure discovery on my part. Let my
readers note that an ounce of experience is worth a ton
of theorizing. I am giving actual experiences. The
learned or unlearned may alike think as they will, but I
know I got what no living man had before. There was
not in the United States at that time an acre of toma-
toes from which a bushel of uniformly smooth tomatoes
could be gathered, as they are now grown everywhere.
I know, also, that I secured this result by the method I
hereafter describe. I know, too, that I can repeat the
process at will, securing new varieties which will again
produce after their kind; and, at least, under my cultiva-
tion, will never deteriorate, or “run out.” For they are
ORIGINAL, DISTINCT VARIETIES, and will bring forth their
like, as will anything else; and they are as capable of
being cultivated into “strains” as are those of cattle,
hogs, chickens, or other plants and fruits of distinct kinds.
The same laws of hfe and breeding govern tomatoes
as in any other form of lite, for all the processes of
nature are so simple that few will believe them, even
when they are pointed out to them. With these pre-
liminary remarks I describe.my new method.

MY NEW METHOD. 23

In passing over my fields of growing tomatoes,
which were still of all sizes, sorts and shapes, my atten-
tion was attracted to a ToMATO PLANT having distinct
characteristics, and bearing heavy foliage. It was unlike
any other in the field, or that I had ever seen. It
showed itself very prolific, its fruit was uniformly
smooth, but too small to be of general market value.
As I examined it closely, observing how alike every to-
mato was on the stalk, wishing they were larger, and
meditated over its possibilities long, it came to me like
an inspiration, “WHY NOT SELECT SPECIAL TOMATO PLANTS
instead of SPECIMEN TOMATOES.” At any rate, I acted at
once on this idea. The seeds from this plant were saved
with pains-taking care, and made the basis of future
experiments. The next spring, from these seeds, I set
two rows across my garden—about forty rods long each
and to my glad surprise they all bore perfect tomatoes
hike the parent vine. I felt that

My battle was half won,
My race, too, half run.

They were a little larger, for which I also rejoiced, as I
hoped to bring them up by choice cultivation to what
would now be considered a medium-sized tomato, which
I then thought, and still think, to be the most profitable
size. The seeds from this crop were again carefully
harvested, but from the first ripe and best specimens I
selected stock for my own planting. By good cultiva-
tion and wise selection from season to season, not to
exceed five years, it took on flesh, size, and improved

24 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

qualities. I then put it on the general market. This
was in 1870. Although grown and sold extensively all
these years to date, and although cultivated into various
“strains” by different growers according to their partic-
ular fancies, it is to-day the same distinct variety which
it was at the first. On account of its superior excellence
in comparison with all others in the market at that
time, I called it “HE Paragon Tomaro.”

PARAGON TOMATO.

4. Livingston’s Paragon Tomato.—lIt was the
first perfectly and uniformly smooth tomato ever in-
troduced to the Ameriean public, or, so far as I have
ever learned, the first introduced to the world. In color
it is a blood red. It has a strong, vigorous stalk; heavy
foliage ; is a very hardy plant; will bear shipping of its
plants well; grows shoots or branches near the roots

LIVINGSTON’S PARAGON TOMATO, 25

later in the season, which bring a late crop equal in
size, quality, and evenness of ripening, to that grown
earlier on the center stem; and with its heavy foliage it
endures early frosts longer, and_ still produces crops
when the price is usually good. It is very prolific, a
little late, but is a most popular tomato as the annual
sales of seeds still show. From the very first of its his-
tory to this day, where acres were planted not a rough
or inferior tomato could be found in the entire fields.
This discovery, like all others, soon produced a
revolution. Asa general field-crop tomato culture had
been of little general interest up to this date. To be
sure, Mr. Harrison W. Crosby canned and sold the to-
mato as far back as the year 1848, but that which
caused it to increase phenomenally, and rival the potato
as a profitable crop to grow, was the discovery of the
Paragon, and the unive ersally smooth varieties that fol-
lowed it. With these, tomato culture began at once to.
be one of the great enterprises of the country. Demands.
of market gardeners soon called for other varieties,
which I supplied as they became clearly defined to me.

5. Livingston’s Acme Tomato.—Several varie-
ties of a purple color had gone upon our markets, such
as the Fejee and the Perfected, with some others. They
produced somewhat after pe kinds, but always re-
quired a liberal “cunLiIne ovr” of inferior specimens.
Yet many market gardeners, especially in the Western
States, became partial to a purple-colored tomato: and
this taste still prevails. As my Paragon was red, and

26 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

too late for carly, and as I wished to tryAgain the meth-
od by which I had discovered the Paragon, I set about
to secure an early purple tomato. I selected from ‘a
field of growing tomatoes, as before, A PLANT which bore
small, uniform, early tomatoes, and which had its own
pecuharly marked characteristics ; such as recommended
it to my Judgment as being the tomato to meet the de-
mands of the trade at that time. I saved the seeds

if ( Ne = ee
rib Sage
AN . N \ \ WN N WY Ss

carefully, cultivated it up in afew years, and introduced
it in 1875 as a perfectly new and distinct variety, under
thé name, * The Acme Tomato.” |

It is lighter in fohage than that of the Paragon,
and much earher. In fact it is the earlhest of the uni-
formly smooth varieties to the present time. A most care-
ful experimenter says: ‘Last year the Acme was two
days later than the Mayflower, this year it is seven days

/

LIVINGSTON §S ACME TOMATO. yi

earlier. Last year Acme was seven days earlier than
Paragon, this year thirty days earlier. Last year it
ripened with the Trophy, while this year it was eleven
days earlier than all others.”

Other kinds will often have one or two “ first early
ripe’ tomatoes on the stalk, while Acme will be earlier
and have a far greater number of “first early” to the
stalk than others. Mr. Wm. Meggat, the wholesale seed-
grower, says, “In 1890 I tried Acme with 115 other
varieties, and found the first ripe fruit on it.” By spec-
ial cultivation as described in Paragraphs 45, 49, it will
show to still better advantage for earliness.

It is of a bright purple color, very tender, and fine
fleshed. It is specially grown for home uses, but is also
a good general-purpose tomato.. Many prefer it above
all others. In fertility, foliage, growth, earliness,
smoothness, size and color, its distinct type is clearly all
it was seventeen yearsago. In 1890 I grew some plants
to test this matter, from stock seed of 1880—ten years
old; and the result showed them to be exactly what
they had been ten years before, viz., distinct and true to
kind. They are, as stockmen would say, “thorough-
bred;” and, at least under our cultivation, show no dis-
position to “run out.”

6. Livingston’s Perfection Tomato.—I found in
my Paragon and Acme fields while growing, an ocea-
sional “sport” (as it were, one in a thousand), which
was yet quite distinct from either of the above varieties.
By experiment I found that these retained their

28 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

peculiarities perfectly. The thought then occurred to
me that I might secure improved kinds more easily and
quickly than from fields of all sorts, as I had done in the
other two already introduced. I was urged to secure’ a
new tomato because a good shipper was in demand, for
tomatoes were being shipped in large quantities from
country towns and places into the large cities, and from

LIVINGSTON’S PERFECTION.

the far South into the North. At any rate I selected a
plant from a field of Acme (a purple tomato) and se-
cured what is known everywhere as Livington’s Perfee-
tion Tomato—a blood red tomato—which I introduced
in 1880. The stalk and foliage are lighter than those of
the Paragon, but stronger than those of the Acme. The

fruit is uniformly smooth like the others, only it is a
little flatter from the stem to the blossom ends. Its
blood red color is very desirable, meeting the fancies of

LIVINGSTON’ S GOLDEN QUEEN TOMATO. 29

the public, especially in the Eastern markets. One par-
ticular advantage it has as a shipper, is that it begins to
show ripening several days before it is fully ripe. It also
has a thick, tough skin, which is not easily broken in
transit. With this kind, inexperienced hands or pickers
in the South, if directed to gather only those fully grown
and showing a tinge of ripening, can be employed to
gather the fruit; and the grower will not get it into the
distant market green, wilted or spotted. This is a good
tomato for bulk of crop, almost anywhere and every-
where.

LIVINGSTON’S GOLDEN QUEEN.

7. Livingston’s Golden Queen Tomato.—In
one of the county fairs which I often attended for the
purpose of selling seeds, I saw a very pretty yellow to-
mato. As I was examining it closely, and admiring it,
the owner saw fit to make me a present of one of them,
which I prized highly, and took special care to preserve,
test and improve. I had it a number of years before I

30) LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

introduced it; but in 1882 I thought it advisable to give
it a wider circulation, and so advertised it extensively
under the above name. It is of a bright golden yellow
color, uniformly smooth, good size, most prolific, early
ripening, and is a first-class, all-purpose tomato. It is
admitted to be the best flavored tomato in existence. It
is often used by the busy housewife when she puts
sliced tomatoes on her table to good advantage, by al-
ternating layers of this yellow with red or purple varie-
ties. It makes a dish, with proper seasoning, dainty
and attractive enough for.a king.

8. Livingston’s Favorite Tomato.
the fruit canning business had grown extensively, and

By this time

tomatoes came 1n fora large share of thistrade. I made
it my business, as I traveled about the country, to learn
the demands of these canning establishments, viz., what -
qualities in a tomato were peculiarly suited to their
trade? Then, in order to meet the canners’ desires, L
selected from a field of Paragons a tomato quite distinct
from it, as any one can see who grows them side by side
in the field. This new tomato I improved, and intro-
duced in 1883, naming it Livingston's Fuvorite Tomato.
It is an early, blood-red, smooth, and most prolitie
tomato. It has no open spaces about the seeds in cavity,
or ridges and hollows from stem to blossom ends. — It rip-
ens evenly, 1s a solid, meaty tomato, and has thicker flesh
parts, of finer fibre, than any other used up to that time.
They are of fine, large size. One grower writes us from
Wisconsin, “I grew them fourteen and a half inches in

,

LIVINGSTON’S FAVORITE TOMATO. 31
circumference.” Another, from Maryland, says, “I put
up 5,065 cases tomatoes off of eighteen acres of your
Favorites.” A large canner in Iowa told us, “ I get one
and a half to two cans per bushel more trom Living-
ston’s Favorites than from other tomatoes.” He also

—
LA

W.ENG,CO.PHILA+

LIVINGSTON’S FAVORITE.

claimed that in a day’s run of forty thousand cans this
ditterence in favor of the Favorite made him over eight
hundred extra cans above any other tomato he ever
used. This one fact shows the importance of canners
looking well after the kinds their growers raise for them.

9. Livingston’s Beauty Tomato.—lI discovered
that nearly all market gardeners, at least west of Penn-
sylvania, were determined to have a_purple-colored

32 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

tomato for their trade. I had also learned that new kinds
selected from the Paragon fields (a red-colored tomato)
possessed more vigor of stalk, and preserved well all the
other qualities so desirable in any tomato. I began to
watch fora new tomato, which would be the market
gardener’s pride and profit.

Being a practical gardener of many years’ experi-
ence myself, [ had much advantage over those who were
only seedsmen, or mere experimenters, in knowing ex-
actly what was needed to supply this demand; and I
was not slow to take this advantage for the good of all.
In due time, and by the same processes as in its pred-
ecessors, my labor was rewarded with what I claim to
be THE CROWN JEWEL OF THEM ALL. It hasastouter stalk
than the Acme; heavier foliage, that protects it from
the scalding hot sun; is slightly darker in its purple
color; almost, if not equally, as early, and much larger
than Acme, being deeper through from stem to blossom
ends. It is a constant bearer, “holding up” its size on
till the frosts kill the vines. It is particularly produc-
tive; when the fruit is left on a single vine to see how
many can be picked off ripe at one time, it is not un-
common to gather a peck at a single picking. Neither
has it a useless green, hard core in the center. What
is usually a hard, unripe center in others, is in this,
and in all my kinds, as good as any other part of
it for food. The seed eavities are small, and contain
few seeds; it ripens all over and through at the
same time, and is freest from skin cracks or “ Black
Rot.” - It is a splendid shipper, and ‘was * “first

LIVINGSTON S BEAUTY TOMATO. 33

purple tomato that obtained extensive sales in the
Eastern markets. The attention of shippers in the
South is especially directed to this variety, because their
success depends on a kind that will “hold up under”
shipments for long distances. An extensive shipper

from Mississippi tells us, “I had ‘Beauties’ on open
freight for nine days, and they came out all right.” It
was introduced in 1886, and it is now sold by all leading
seedsmen in the world more largely than any other. It
requires almost two anda half tons of seed from this
kind alone, to serve our own customers in their annual
demands, and other seedsmen also sell large quantities
of it.

wo
rg

LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

10. Selling Under Seal.—I dislike very much to
say anything against others in the same line of trade
with myself; or anything that may even sound like it ;
for I claim to be one of the last men on earth who grows
“sore-headed” over the successes of my competitors. I
am also aware that if I do myself, and my tomatoes,
common justice in this book, that I lay myself liable to
be charged with an. “ad scheme;” but as Il write experi-
ences here, it came to pass that, because of designing

persons unjustly seeking to enter upon other men’s
labors, we were compelled to do as many other seeds-
men did with other new vegetables, viz., “SELL UNDER
SEAL.” This was a necessity to preserve our own repu-
tation as upright seedsmen, and to keep the names which
we had wisely selected for each of our new tomatoes.
They were justly popular, but I found that they were
sold under various other names; that many were mixed

LIVINGSTON S TRUE BLUE SEAL. 35

or crossed with other kinds, and so impure; I learned,
also, that even our own kinds were sold under each
other’s names, or those of other well-known varieties:
and thousands of dollars’ worth of seed are still sold in
the same way each year, although it is palpably dishon-
est by all those who do it knowingly. Beauty, and all
purple tomatoes, are sold in Chicago for Acmes. About
Detroit, Beauty tomatoes are sold under the local
name “Fejee.”’ In Florida it is sold for “Improved
Acme.” In Baltimore it is sold as “ Prize-taker,”
while Paragon is sold as “The Queen” tomato.
Each of the other kinds have met the same fate.
We grow on our experimental garden many lead-
ing varieties other than our own, and by actual
comparison are led to believe that because of similar
characteristics, and also that introducers refuse to give
an account of the origin of their new tomatoes, that
many are simply the renaming of our popular kinds.
Clearest proofs, multiphed, could be given of these, and
similar things; and they wi// be given to anyone entitled
to know them of us. But now.we sell under Seal, onty
OUR OWN VARIETIES, and these alone when grown near at
hand, under our own supervision. When that stock is
exhausted, we do not buy of other firms, but quit selling
under seal.

11. Livingston’s Potato-Leaf Tomato.—Many
growers had heavy clay lands, and needed a tomato
adapted to this kind of soil, and still prove a heavy crop-
per. The Potato-Leat, which I introduced in 1887, was

a

is

a 4
36 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

e

found well calculated to meet this demand. I had it
ready before I got the Beauty, but congidered it wiser to
let it wait until a sweepstakes tomato, like the Beauty,
was well under way. Its leaf resembles that of the Irish
potato, hence its name. It is like the Mikado or Tur-
ner’s Hybrid, in foliage only; in every respect they differ
in their fruits. It is of fine flavor, uniformly smooth,

LIVINGSTON’S POTATO-LEAF.

deep through, good size, a bright, glossy, purple color,
an excellent producer, and is especially suited for “stak-
ing up,” or “Trellising.’ See Paragraphs 45 and 49.
This Tomato, because of its right size and glossy
purple color is of all the purple varieties the best adapted
for canning whole, which is in the Eastern parts of the
country now becoming very common and popular.

LIVINGSTON’S NEW STONE TOMATO. 37

12. Livingston’s New Stone Tomato. — The
American pubhe is not satisfied with old things, how-
ever good they may be. I was asked almost every day,
while “on the road,” “Have you anything new in the
tomato line?” Now, although customers had made it
plain by thousands of unsought testimonials to those

LIVINGSTON’S NEW STONE.

already introduced, that there was ver y little opportu-
nity left for improvement in tomatoes, I yet found it
Wise to put out new ones from time to time. Of course
there was less difference between these and those I first
introduced, than between my first and all kinds which
preceded them. It was always my aim to please my

38 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

customers, and so I made these little improvements as
it became clearly necessary for the grower’s profit. The
New Stone was found between rows of Beauty and: Fa-
vorite, in the tields of one of our careful growers. It
was perfected as a distinct variety, and introduced in
1889. It is blood-red in color, shaped like the Beauty
and is the largest smooth red to-

—see Paragraph 9
mato on the nrarkets. It is the heaviest for its size or
compass of all others; therefore its name, ‘ Stone.”
Some growers claim they can tell it from others of the
same size in the dark, because of its greater weight and
solidity. It comes more nearly combining the’ good
qualities of all the red tomatoes preceding it than any
others of any name. No red tomato carries its size
throughout the season better, none are more prolific,
none are better adapted for all purposes, none have
pleased our growers better in the same length of time
since its introduction. In my judgment the coming to-
matoes that will hold the highest rank, and wear the
longest with those who grow them for the money they
will make them, are, for purple color, “THe Brauty;”
for red color, “ THe New Stone.”

18. Livingston’s Royal Red Tomato.—lIt was
found among Dwarf Champion fields. These were pur-
ple tomatoes, while the Royal Red is a bright searlet—
the reddest tomato through and through yet introduced
by us or others. I found that large quantities of toma-
toes were used in the manufacture of catsup, and also
for canning whole in bottles. This very decided red

Ove es S&S

LIVINGSTON S ROYAL RED TOMATO. 39

color was in demand for these purposes ; so it was intro-
duced as “Livingston’s Royal Red,” in 1891. It isa
first-rate general purpose tomato, however. It carries
in high degree most of the good qualities of the older

LIVINGSTON’S ROYAL RED.

ones I have introduced. In size, smoothness, produe-
tiveness, solidity, and beautiful appearance, it will please
the most fastidious. When on exhibition at our Fairs
it attracts more attention than any other of the red
varieties.

14, Livingston’s Gold Ball Tomato.—The little
yellow Egg, or Plum Tomato, which people ate raw in
their gardens, and used so extensively for preserves,
suggested to my mind that a new and improved variety
for the same purposes might be very acceptable. One of

40 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

our best growers found it among his growing tomatoes,
and it was introduced in 1892. It is a bright golden
yellow, round as a ball, one and one-half inches in diam-
eter; it has few seeds, abundance of flesh, and is so very
productive that some single plants have borne a half
bushel of fruit. The tomatoes will, without injury,

LIVINGSTON’S GOLD BALI.

hang on the vine in clusters a week or ten days after
fully ripe. I consider this gem of a tomato the best I
have ever seen for preserves. No thrifty housewife who
onee fixes her eyes upon this Ball of Beauty will ever
let it go from her garden or table.

LIVINGSTON’S BUCKEYE STATE TOMATO. 4]

15. Livingston’s Buckeye State Tomato.—
Lately considerable excitement among ambitious seeds-
men has been experienced over very large fruited
tomatoes. Now this furnishes me with an opportunity

LIVINGSTON’S BUCKEYE STATE,

for which I have waited long. I have had this one,
named as above, from the very first of my all-smooth
varieties; I did not introduce it, because it seemed to
me too large for general use. It is the largest uniformly
smooth one in the markets that carries with it all the

4
42 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

qualities I have described as belonging to all others of
my great family of tomatoes.

As there is now a demand for large specimens, I
entrust mine to the judgment and experience of the
tomato growing public in the year 1893. There is
nothing coarse or rough about this fruit. It ripens quite
early, is atomato for home use and for the home market;
a vigorous grower, has no green end or useless core, and
few seeds; is of fine flavor, purple color, and grows in
mammoth clusters of from six to ten in a cluster, many
of which will weigh from one to one and a half
pounds apiece. It is also a very profitable kind to stake
up or trellis. See Paragraphs 45 and 49.

16. Livingston’s New Dwarf Aristocrat To-
mato.—It would seem after all that has been said of the
tomatoes already described, that no more could be add-
ed, or any other improvements made on them; yet there
are many more points of excellence to be attained, some
of which I claim are found in this new dwarf tomato
which will be introduced this year—1893. It has a
strong, erect, bushy stalk, that is often one and a half
inches in diameter. Because of its erect bearing and
dressy appearance it is called “The Aristocrat.” The
plants are so stalky and stiff from the time they come
out of the ground that they reset without wilting or
falling down, and are therefore not stunted; nearly a
week on “first early” is gained in this way. Plants can
be set much closer than those of other varieties ; at least
one-half more will be required to set the same plot of

LIVINGSTON ’S NEW DWARF ARISTOCRAT TOMATO.

Bp
A
Y

44 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

gvround. With this advantage, and their extra produc-
tiveness, I believe under special cultivation they will
produce one-third more to the acre than other kinds.
It begins to bear with the earliest varieties, and does
not cease bearing until frosts kill the vines. Yet be-
cause of its erectness, bushy habits, and close standing
in the field, it is saved from the early frosts, and only
the hard freezes in the fall will reach the fruit hid up
under its foliage, and thus bears abundantly when other
kinds have been entirely killed. The fruit has the pe-
culiar quality of keeping in a dry, cool room, before
deeay sets in, for three or four weeks after they cannot
longer be trusted in the open field. It 1s also a large
sized tomato, of a bright glossy red color, very fine
fleshed and flavored, uniformly smooth, and is an all-
purpose tomato for shippers, canners, market gardeners,
and for fancy and remumerative home-culture. In a
word, it carries the good qualities of its forerunners
among my varieties, and has some others peculiar to
itself. I prophesy a brilliant future for our Aristocrat.

17. Livingston’s Large Rose Peach Tomato.
This sort originated with us and has all the general char-
acteristics belonging to this singular and distinct class of
tomatoes, but is much larger than any peach variety yet
brought out, averaging about with the Acme in size.
We have grown it for several years on our trial grounds
here, and are well pleased with it. We pronounce it
rot proof because we have not observed a single speci-
men showing any sign of rot in the past three years of

‘

LIVINGSTON S LARGE ROSE PEACH TOMATO. 45

its growth. It is a profuse bearer until killed by re-
peated frost, and has the agreeable, mild flavor as well
as the suffused coloring and the peculiar. peach-hke
bloom on its surface. We presume that the texture of
the skin accounts for its never rotting, and we think for

LIVINGSTON’S LARGE ROSE PEACH.

the same reason it would be well adapted for growing
in certain hot climates where the ordinary tomato can-
not be successfully grown. It is certainly worthy of
extended trial.

46 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

HAVE now given the reader a history of the princi-

pal varieties already introduced. They were each
secured to meet certain clearly defined demands arising
in the tomato trade. If there is any demand which has
not been reasonably met, I acknowledge frankly that I
do not know what it is. Some will say, “ This is a big-
pictured advertisement.” Now, Iam free to admit that
I am not blind to the fact that what I have related will
advertise us among the teaders of this book; but we
will not allow that we are dealing with anything but
the tacts in the case. If facts advertise me, that is as
legitimately mine as the tomatoes I have introduced ;
and no one is injured if I claim my own. It can be no
loss to the grower, nor to my fellow-seedsmen who cat-
alogue my tomato seeds from year to year, and sell large
quantities of them; nor yet to the consumer who par-
takes of new and improved fruits. It will now be neces-
sary to consider some of the questions relating to kinds,
which many growers and others are continually asking,
and which have been written about so variously, that
““T, also, will show mine opinion.”

18. «Will your varieties ‘run out?’’’—Under
our cultivation, having our distinct kinds as a basis,
there is no such thing as the degeneracy of the kinds.
I have sweet corn kept pure and improving for forty-
one years; and cabbage so, for thirty-five years; and

WILL VARIETIES RUN OUT. AT

tomatoes so, for twenty-six years. I see the same
laws of life that govern pedigreed stock in aninials, con-
trol in tomato life. If one has a distinct variety, and
keeps it pure, and cultivated up, it cannot degenerate.
All experience is against the idea of degeneracy ; unless
left to itself, to mix in foreign blood, to get under con-
ditions unfavorable for its true and best developments.
I am aware that it will not do to set out tomato plants
that come up of themselves from the last year’s crop,
even when that crop was considered pure stock. It is
left to itself, and whatever of bad nature there may be
in it, issure tocome out. This I know to bea fact—vol-
unteers will not do to use, although no one exactly
knows why it isso. This does not argue, however, that
a distinct kind, kept pure and cultivated under proper
conditions, will degenerate ; at least, mine do not “run
out.”

19. «*«Can we cross kinds and get new ones?”
That is, if I plant several kinds, such as Beauty, Mika-
do, and Dwarf Champion, together in the same field, so
that they will mix in the bloom, can I get from a mon-
grel, thus produced, a new and distinct variety that will
produce ‘after its kind, and be better than either of the
above varieties? In answer to this question let me say,
I have no confidence in hybridizing or crossing as a
method of securing new varieties. [am not likely to for-
get my failures for fifteen years, nor the lessons which
they taught me. Like begets hike. Rough ones beget
rough ones. From an imperfect kind unitormly perfect

48 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

specimens cannot come. “ Blood will tell,” and the im-
pertections will appear; and this will be true if there is
the least bad blood in either of the kinds that may be
crossed. If the Trophy is crossed with the Paragon the
result will be an improvement on Trophy, but rough
ones will still appear among them, and more “culls” will
appear. This fact can be easily proven in_ practice,
even where for several generations these bad qualities
had not been much seen, for some unaccountable reasons
they will begin to appear again. This is what is known
as “breeding back,” among the stockmen, but is just as
true of tomatoes as of anything else. If any one breeds
crosses upon crosses, no one can tell what the result will
be. Yet trying to breed in certain good qualities by
crossing those that do not have them with some that do,
while at the same time certain bad qualities would be
bred out by the same process, must ever prove a failure;
simply because it violates the very constitution of things,
viz: ‘* Whose seed is in itself yielding fruit after
his kind.” I see some seedsmen are advertising this
year, 1893, in their catalogues, the seeds of fifty differ-
ent kinds of tomatoes in one packet. No one will geta
new and valuable kind trom seed of such a mixed lot, tor
they will not produce after the nice specimen tomatoes
one may select from them. It would be better to do as I
did—select a pLANTof decided markings of stalk, leaf, size,-
quality of fruit to taste; for if you happened upon an
original variety it would then come true to kind; other-
wise, never in the world; for it might in any season
“breed back” to the time when Jacob traded lentils to

CULTIVATING VARIETIES INTO STRAINS. 49

Esau for his birthright. It is no manner of use wasting
time on seed from crosses for stock seed. As well build
a mull high on the hill and expect the water to run up
there of its own accord to drive the machinery. It vio-
lates nature, and it can’t be done that way. The whole
trick in getting new varieties is in knowing which
plants are original kinds, and those that will, under cul-
tivation, take on size, flesh, and desired qualities, WrrHoUT
ANY INFUSION OF FOREIGN BLOOD. No doubt, on this sub-
ject, there 1s much of mystery as yet, Just as there is on
all subjects connected with life, which is itself a pro-
found mystery. However, this makes it all the more
inviting field for scrutinizing investigations.

20. Can distinct varieties be cultivated into
different ‘‘strains?’’—Each plant has its range of pos-
sibilities; that is, it can grow larger or smaller than a
standard size, a little darker or lighter in color, a little
more sour or sweet; and so on, covering all of its qual-
ities. [suppose The Creator gave it these capacities to
change in order to adapt itself to varying conditions
under which it might have to grow, and still continue
itself from year to year. Each plant has its limitations
however, beyond which it cannot be cultivated. No
amount of cultivation (or putting it under the most fa-
vorable circumstances to develop to its utmost) would
grow a Yellow Egg Tomato into a Golden Queen, be-
rause “The Queen” has capacities beyond the limita-
tions of “The Egg” tomato. Hence if we get Queen
tomatoes we must not try to get them by cultivating up
the Egg, but get a new and distinct variety.

~

50 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

There may be another reason why the Creator has
arranged things in this way, viz.: it affords opportunity
to gratify a great variety of tastes; suppose, as a gar-
dener, I prefer “The Beauty” tomato to any other one

kind. As I grow it from year to year, and observe it

closely, I discover these variations in its qualities. I
see some larger or smaller, some darker or lighter, some
heavier or of less weight, and so on. At onee my pref-
erences would lead me to select for my stock-seed from
specimen plants and tomatoes those which I thought
best. Now, this process kept up for a number of years
will produce what would be properly called my “ Strain
of Beauties.” Yet let it not be forgotten, it would never
become anything other than a Beauty.

Now, in point of fact, as I visit the tields of many
‘careful tomato growers each year, the evidences of this
very thing comes to my eyes. I will not be successfully
contradicted when I say, there are to-day among gar-
deners, many strains of Paragon, of Beauty, and of other
popular varieties. I sincerely hes too, that the reader
will not fail to consider that only distinet kinds are ca-
pable of being cultivated into decided “strains;” and
this in turn, proves that my kinds are new and distinct.

For this reason, and because of many observations
made in all parts of this country, I have great difficulty
to see how any originator has got, even aproximately
smooth tomatoes from rough kinds, without a strong
infusion of blood from some of my distinctly smooth
varieties. In our trial gardens are raised many well-
known principal kinds; and there are none of them but

SELECTED STOCK-SEED. re

show a proportion of rough ones among them. There

is, so far as I know, very little literature upon how orig-

inators secured the kinds they claim are new and dis-

tinct varieties, and which they introduce under various

names. It would be of immense interest to me, and I

judge to growers in general, to learn how they got them.

I, for myself, would lke to learn many things from

these men if they are sending out those that are really)
new and distinct; but if they send out only “ crosses,” |
or “strains,” as such, one would’ only smile at the effort, ’
but expect no permanent results from it. I suspect, at

least, that such efforts account for the prevailing opin-

ion that the lite of any distinct kind of tomato is only

ten years.

21. Selected Stock -Seed.— We should have.
among seedsmen, for the benefit of growers, something
which would procure the same end as the pedigrees of
animals to be used for breeding purposes. Stock-seed
should be selected, year by year, from the discovery of
any new kind, so long as there is any demand for it, by
the wisest and best growers in the land. All admit the
necessity and advantages of such care, such cultivation,
and such selections; but few go to the expense to do
this. Concerning all the kinds introduced and_ betore
described, I can say they are really pedigreed tomatoes.
From the day of their discovery to this day, they have
been under our hands; so we know what we have, and
what they will produce. Only a few men have been
found who can be entrusted to save selected stock tor

a2 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

us, and raise from it reliable seeds for our customers.
These are well paid for this very responsible labor, and
they can make a business of it,and so we keep our tomato
seeds up to the standard type. All my varieties, nearly,
are general and special purpose tomatoes. All are
smooth—to a tomato—not a rough one can be found in
acres, as we grow them. A son of Mr. Landreth, the
seedsman, in the fall of 1892, at his own request, was
taken over the fields of my ditterent kinds in the trial
gardens. After going through all the fields, he was
challenged to say whether he had seen a single rough
one among all of my own varieties, but he could not say
that he had. The fact is, they are absolutely and uni-
formly smooth in contour. <All ripen evenly, all over
and through, at the same time. Not one has a useless
core, or hard stem end; the whole tomato is all
alike edible. All grow in clusters, and so are more pro-
lific. All possess the greatest possible solidity in the
smallest possible compass. And all are new and distinct
varieties, producing after their kind.

While traveling, [am often asked to buy tomato
seed. I could buy it by the hundred pounds at twelve
cents to forty cents per pound. I know that large
quantities of it are bought and sold in the seed markets
to-day; because when sold at one dollar or more per
pound, there may. be a gain of three or four hundred per
cent. But after what I have written, it 1s plain that no
grower who would make the most of his opportunities
should trust to that kind of seed. All my experiences and
observations teach me to advise every grower always to

'

.
"
Nee

SELECTED STOCK-SEED.

get the best available selected stock-seed from reliable
seedsmen. It is the cheapest in the end, by far. The im-
portance—the money value—of having varieties true to
kind, and good, strong seed from them, cannot be over-
estimated. It often makes all the difference between
what is loss, and what pays well, in one’s crop. It costs
more to get it, and we must always expect to pay more
for it. After the first cost of the select stock-seed, it
costs no more to raise and market the crop than it
would if the market gardener grew it from inferior
kinds. This latter seed would cost him at least one dol-
lar per pound. An ounce will plant an acre. This
amount would cost him six and a quarter cents per acre.
If he will add six and a quarter cents more, he can get
good seeds of profitable kinds. This would be at the
rate of two dollars per pound. If he will add another six
and a quarter cents, he can buy choice seed of better va-
rieties ; or at the rate of three dollars per pound. But
if he will add yet another six and a quarter cents, he can
have selected stock-seed from the first kinds in the land.

This would be at the rate of four dollars per pound, or
twenty-five cents per acre.

It is not always safe to get barely enough seed; for
frost, accident, or other enemy, may destroy it. In the
North growers usually buy and sow one-quarter pound
for an acre, and twice that amount is used in the South.
At the above figures the select stock-seed would cost
per acre from one to two dollars. This amount is so
small that no wise, wide-awake man will risk growing
his crops from inferior kinds. The profits from the first

54 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

picking off an acre will far more than pay this differ-
ence in the cost of seed; and the grower has, for all the
rest of the season through, the choicest fruits to place
before his customers. Who does not know among mar-
ket gardeners, that you cannot sell a measure of mixed
apples to advantage? Neither can you of -tomatoes.
Best kinds, in best condition, bring best prices, on all
markets, fromy the best paying customers. After ex-
tended observations I am persuaded that there is more
lost to the producers of all kinds of field crops by plant-
ing inferior seed than from any other one cause.
People do not often think about it as it is. In one row
of tomatoes forty rods long ONE INFERIOR STALK would, if
it had been a good one, so increased the gain of the crop
as to have bought select stock-seed for the whole row.
This idea was given me bya sharp, shrewd, grower, who
was making his business pay him richly. I am well
aware that prices, as named above, will seem large to
amateur growers; but experienced gardeners will take
no exceptions to my reasoning here. It only costs a
farmer or beginner a few cents to test the certainty of
what I write here by his own experience.

22. Can farmers and market gardeners grow
their own seed and save this expense ?—I think
not, because they plant to use the fruit, and not to get the
seed. It is often to their advantage to plant different
kinds side by side. They will cross badly, and so in a
few years “run out.” “But could they not plant some
separately and so get their own seed?” Yes, they could,

GROWING OWN SEED. 55

if they would, and learn the seed- raising business;
but will they do it? and would it pay them if they did?
Seed-raising is another business altogether, which few
market gardeners know anything about. The amount
of seed—especially tomato seed—which any one uses is
so small, that if he employed the time and labor neces-
sary to save his own seed in producing marketable
fruits, he could, by the gain from this, buy seleeted seed
ot the best ered a half dozen times over. An old say-
ing is, “Every man to his trade;” for those who make
a business of any specialty can do that cheapest. So it
comes to pass in human affairs that most of us find it
pays best to do a tew things well, and buy what we
want cheaper, vastly cheaper, than we could if we tried
to produce it for ourselves. Let us “live and let live.’
See what other writers think on this same subject

SHOULD GARDENERS Grow THErR Own Szeps.
BY W. J. GREEN.

“This question is usually answered in the affirma-
tive: the reason assigned being that one can grow better
seeds than he can buy. The reason may have been a

ralid one once, and may still hold good in some cases,
but to advise private parties to grow their own garden
seeds is about as antiquated advice as to recommend
farmers to weave their own cloth.

“Indiscriminate advice is worse than no advice.
This is one of the cases where careful discrimination is
required. To grow good seed, it is not only necessary
to keep varities pure, by preventing crossing, but it is

56 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

also necessary to exercise the greatest care in selection
of stock. It is not enough to secure a good variety
and then keep it from mixing with other varieties, but
trueness to type and purity of strain must be looked
after. Imperfect forms must be weeded out, and only
those that come up to the proper standard retained.
The art of selection so as to obtain the best possible re-
sults is not so well understood as desirable, but profes-
sional seed growers know about all there is known
about it. They could give private growers “ pointers ”
every day inthe year. __

«There is no doubt but they know how to grow,
and do grow, better seed than ninety-nine per cent. of
private growers are able to do, and they sell their pro-
ducts at prices far below what small quantities can be
grown for. The only possible good reason for any one
to grow a small quantity of seeds for his own use is, that
he thinks them to be much superior to anything that
he can buy.

“Tn most cases such persons deceive themselves in
the belief that they have something better than any one
else is able to grow. But, says one, “ If I have some-
thing that I know to be extra fine, will it not pay me to
perpetuate it myself, so as to be sure of it?” The an-
swer is, “yes, if you are sure that you can do the work
better than any one else, but the chances are ten to one
that a regular seed grower can do much better than you
can, and do it vastly cheaper.”

HINTS TO AMERICAN SEED TRADE ASSOCIATION. 57

23. Hints to the American Seed Trade Asso-
ciation.—There have been such mixing of varieties, and
of names given to kinds by unscrupulous parties, that
great and unnecessary expense has been occasioned.
Possibly there has been not a little over-reaching in the
race for wealth and distinction. Some course of action
ought to be adopted, and lived up to, that would render
this sort of thing practically impossible.

I recommend that the Association list all worthy
vegetables under the name given it by the introducer,
together with his description of the same, and that this
be published in a book, called “ Vegetable Standard,”
by the American Seed Trade Association. Also, that
hereatter no vegetable shall be added to this list, as a
new one, until the originator gives satisfactory proofs
that itis a new kind, distinet from all those already
listed, worthy a place in this Standard, and of the en-
dorsement of the Association. The American Poultry
Association does this with advantage to all. It is an
acknowledged tact that deceptions are used in the seed
trade; new names are assumed for old varieties by those
without principle; they sell thousands of pounds of seed
none should buy, and much less plant. Such need ex-
posure betore the public, for the benefit of all. I here
add, as confirming what I have said, the words of a good
writer from one of our Experimental Stations :

“In testing varieties at our station, we have forci-
bly noticed the confusion that exists in the names of
vegetables, and have, many times, strongly felt the need

58 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMAT®.

of some authorized standard that would aid us in deter-
nuining whether a given variety we are growing Is dis-
tinct, or whether it is the same as some other, bearing a
different name.

“Because we have discovered that there is no such
standard, and because we are finding ont that many of
the names offered in our catalogues are not distinct, it
has occurred to us that we can perhaps do no more use-
ful work for horticulture than to make the effort to dis-
cover how many distinct varieties we have, and to make
a complete and accurate description of each. It 1s cer-
tainly not our province to assigu the blame for the con-
fusion of names that exists. Indeed, the more we learn
the more we become convinced that it is nobody’s fault.
It is the natural and inevitable consequence of carrying
on the seed business without an authorized standard of
varieties. It 1s what language was before we had a dic-
tionary, and what our fruits would have been to-day,
had not Mr. Downing and his associates accomplished
the great work of sifting out the synonyms.

“The question has often been raised whether it is
possible to make descriptions of varieties of vegetables
which will apply to different soils «nd climates. Our
botanist friends have often expressed grave doubts upon
the subject, and have even declared it impossible. After
three years of study in this directi.n, Iam of the opinion
that the thing is practicable, though it is certainly not
easy of accomplishment.”

Some kind of protection, too, onght to be found for

HINTS TO AMERICAN SEED TRADE ASSOCIATION. 59

the right in these matters, and for those who walk up-
rightly. We cannot have it too soon, either. I have
thought that a national law to the eftect that no one
should SELL THE SEEDS of any vegetable without consent
of the discoverer for five years from date of letters pat-
ent which the Government had given him for discover-
ing anew and worthy vegetable was a just necessity.
If I had had such protection upon my new tomatoes,
there is not a seedsman in the land but knows it would
have been worth thousands of dollaks to me, and would
not have been one dollar less advantage to the seed

trade of the country, or to those whom they serve. If

a man is entitled to seventeen years protection on any
new device of every sort, how much more ought the
seedsman or grower who discovers a new article of food

have protection for five years. I hope some member of
the Association, more familiar than I with the details of

this business, will work it out and put it through ; for it
would give a wonderful impetus to the securing of new
and useful kinds of vegetables.

Here is another thing in which all seedsmen and
their customers are interested. There is an increasing
seed trade carried on by mail, and this is largely by the
poor of the land who only buy in small amounts. The
United States ought not to carry Canadian mail matter
at four cents per pound, and charge her own citizens
just double that rate, viz., eight cents a pound. I be-
heve if the Association did but call the Government’s
attention to it, this would be changed at once. England
is able to take care of herself, and this country ought to

ww

60 LIVINGSTON AND THE ‘TOMATO.

give her own subjects (among which are seedsmen and
growers) a better opportunity to be loyal and thrifty
citizens by taking better care of themselves in a legiti-

mate way.

24. Profits on a Tomato Crop.—I now propose
to show that this is a profitable crop to raise. After all,
if there is no demand for them, good kinds will help no
one. If we cannot get a good price for them when
they are grown, of what avail will improved varieties be
toany one. This is shown in the history of the Golden
Queen tomato. My readers have a right to know and
be satisfied whether tomato growing is profitable or not.
This point must be proven clearly, and I aim to do that
here for any fair-minded person.

It is variously and correctly estimated that an acre
will produce from one to eight hundred bushels of to-
matoes. A man can grow as many acres of them, and
be equally as certain of a good crop, as he could be of
corn. Indeed, take the soils and seasons as they come
and go, he would be rather more certain of a crop. He
would now be quite as sure, also, of a ready market for
the one as the other. Neither will it cost more labor,
time, attention, or money, to produce tomatges than to
raise corn; and they have rather less enemies than any
other field crop as extensively grown. Like other pro-
ducts of the soil, the price will vary according to the law
of supply and demand. It will range from twenty-five
cents to one dollar and a half per bushel. Let us reason
a little from these premises. If you harvest one hun-

PROFITS ON A TOMATO CROP. 61

dred bushels, and sell at twenty-five cents per bushel,
you get twenty-five dollars per acre. This is counted at
lowest acreage and lowest price per bushel. It will not
be better than that with corn, oats, wheat or hay, if you
count either of them at lowest acreage and lowest prices.
But, if you sell the one hundred bushels per acre at fifty
cents per bushel you will get fifty dollars; and if for one
dollar per bushel, one hundred dollars: per acre.

Now, if you harvest four hundred bushels per acre
(one-half the largest possibility), and sell at twenty-five
cents per bushel, you get one hundred dollars: at fitty
cents per bushel, two hundred dollars; at one dollar per
bushel, four hundred dollars to the acre.

These results show up well when compared with
those of other crops which growers have been raising,
I venture to assert. Do you ask, “but are not these
imaginary figures?’? T answer, “not a bit of it.” This
very season—1892—tomatoes were readily sold on the
Columbus markets at from forty cents to one dollar and
a half per bushel; and we had in our own fields a good
many acres that did not fall short of the four hundred
bushels to the acre, either.

“But if all farmers went into the business of grow-
ing tomatoes, what then?” I am often asked such
questions. Every one will not do it; at least for many
years to come; and then, when it does not pay longer,
it will be time enough to change to some other crop.
The above question would apply equally well to any
other standard crop of the present time. It could be
asked with as much pith and point of the potato, corn,

62 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

or wheat crops. But there is no more danger of over-
stocking the markets with tomatoes than with any
other single crop that 1s commonly raised at this time.
To-day Ohio alone needs twenty-five more canning fac-
tories to be up with Iowa or Maryland. Southern ship-
pers must make money, for there are thousands of them
in the business of raising tomatoes for the northern
markets. The selling prices range from two to eight
dollars per bushel, and they secure from fifty to two hun-
dred bushels to the acre from the early spring crop, and
more per acre from the early summer crops. From the
above ‘prices must be subtracted the commissions and
freights, but if that costs half its value, their returns will
still be from fifty to eight hundred dollars per acre. Infor-
mation from the experimental stations shows that they
could be raised under glass or in hot-houses in the
North, and sold at spring or early summer prices with a
net profit of fifteen cents per square foot for the plat so
planted. There are nine square feet ina yard. This
would be a net profit of one dollar and thirty-five cents
to the square yard; or in a hot house one hundred feet
long, with beds a yard wide on each side of the walk, it
would bring two hundred and seventy dollars net gain.
And remember, this would come in after other good
paying crops had been taken off the same beds—such as
lettuce.

And if one grows the tomato for his own use, no
fruit, or other vegetable, will aftord him such abundance
of healthful food for the same expenditure of labor.
This will enable my readers to see that there is money

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.

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SELECTION OF KINDS. 63

in the business, with no more “ drawbacks” than in any
other line of products from the soil. Still, if a man has
failed in all else, I could not advise him to try growing
tomatoes for profit; but I will tell you that the kind of
man who will, in my judgment, get the nearest to eight
hundred Berek to the aere, neal secure the nearest to
one dollar per bushel for them. It will be the man who
aims at these figures, leaving no stone unturned to: get
them, and working closer to it from year to year as
experience teaches him what, and what not to do. He
will dare to risk whatever reasonably promises to fetch
better crops and better prices. The man who selects
the best seeds, of the best kinds, for the best soil he has,
works it most judiciously, uses wisely the right fertiliz-

Ss, prepares it best for market, reads the best newspa-
pers, is, with courtesy and honest dealing for all, the
man who will succeed in growing good tomatoes and
getting big money for them. Give this an all-around,
faithful trial, and then write me a letter of thanks for
calling your attention to it.

25. Selection of Kinds to Plant.—There are
more than three hundred kinds of tomatoes: at least,
there are above that number of names applied to them.
It is charitable for me to say that each of these kinds
have some qualities to recommend them. Many re-
spectable fellow-seedsmen advertise some of these kinds,
and all growers who have tried them, and find they pay
them better than other kinds, would be very foolish
indeed to abandon them. I do not wish to say anything

o4 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

against any of these particular varieties, nor will I; but
the reader will easily believe, as I have discovered and
introduced thirteen different kinds, with a view of meet-
ing the demands of the times, that I would at least pre-
fer my own to all others. If I were to collate what the
3ulletins decide, and the money-making customers say,
of my tomatoes, in comparison with all other most pop-
ular varieties, I could not complain that my judgment
in this thing was not ably confirmed. I would gladly
avoid naming varieties suited to any given end the
grower might wish to attain; and yet, I hope my mod-
esty will not be questioned when I say that I have every
reason to think that my readers will want to know
which of his kinds Livingston would plant for any given
purpose. I will name, then, only those heretofore de-
scribed in this book.

26. Kinds for Shippers.—dAs tliese are earliest
on the market, I name them first. For early red, PEr-
FECTION and Tue ARISTOCRAT; especially in those parts
of the country where “staking up” is extensively em-
ployed. Tue Bravry, of purple color, comes next, and
should be given place tor one-half the whole crop. NEw
Srone for bulk of crop between early and late; this is a
red tomato, and very choice for this purpose. And Par-
AGON for red late.

27. Kinds for Home Use.—I would name Fa-
VorITE for early red, and Acme for early purple. Braury
tor bulk of crop. A few stalks of yellow GOLDEN QUEEN

SELECTION OF KINDS. 65

is needed for slicing and preserves. For ornamental
trellising and useful crop, try Royan Rep, Poraro-Lear,
and yellow Goutp Batt. On fancy trellises they are very
beautiful, and will repay the grower for his trouble in
good fruits. If a farmer wishes large, fine-fieshed to-
matoes, so that he can get a good price on market
(should he have more than he wishes for himself), let
him try Buckeye Stave, which is of purple color, and
quite sweet in flavor.

28. Kinds for Market Gardeners.—AcmeE for
first early purple, and PERrFeEctTIoNn for first early red.
The purple Beauty, and the red New Strong, for bulk of
crop. For very large ones of purple color, plant BucK-
EYE STaTeE; and for late red, the Paragon.

29. Kinds for Canners.—They should see to it
that their growers plant PrERFEcTION and Favorite for
early, the New Stone and Beauty for medium and bulk
of crop, and Paragon for late. If they wish to get very
let me commend the red Aristocrat, the purple Porato-
Lear, and the yellow Gotp Batu. See Paragraph 61.

desirable kinds for canning the fruit whole in bottles,

30. Kinds for Catsups and Preserves. — For
catsups, RoyaL Rep, and for preserves, Goup Batu.

31. Kinds to Grow Under Glass.—I recom-
mend for red color, THe PERFECTION and Tue ARISTO-
cRAT; and for purple, THe AcmMeE and Tue Beauty.

66 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

Now, although we thus name these kinds for spec-
lal purposes, yet the grower may profitably try other
kinds if it suits his convenience better to do so. This
list is largely intended for beginners, and is to have a
general application.

32. Sowing Seed for Family Use.—Make a
shallow tray or box two feet long, one foot wide, and
six inches deep; or get a goods box from your grocer
about the same size; or whatever will fit best into the
sunniest window of the warmest room in your house.
Take some rich black soil, with enough sand in it to
keep it from baking after it is watered, and so it will
make it warmer; put it first into the oven and heat it
until all the weed seeds and insect life there may be in
it will be destroyed, and then put into your box enough
of it to fill the tray three-fourths full. Arrange to fix
your box on such an incline at the window as to get the
sun’s rays perpendicularly, or square against the surface
of the ground. Moisten this soil and stir in the sun
from time to time, for a day or two, until it is in fine
condition to make the seed germinate. Al] this is to be
got ready from the middle of February to the middle of
March in the latitude of Ohio; north or south of this,
vary the time to suit. In this box plant the choicest
seeds of the best kinds at your command. Lay it off in
rows across the short way of the box, four inches apart,
and if you wish to take the trouble, put the seeds about
one-quarter inch apart in the row; otherwise sprinkle
along, so as to be as near that thick in the row as you

SOWING SEED FOR FAMILY USE. 67

van. hit it in that way; then cover with one-half or three-
quarters of an inch of earth, and “firm it down” on the
seed. Care must be taken where two or more kinds are
planted in the same box, to mark the rows carefully
where they were planted, on the outside of the box, at
the end of the rows; otherwise it will be forgotten which
is which, by the time they are to be transplanted. Each
kind should be set by themselves in the garden, and
their names preserved throughout the season; then the
grower will know which kinds suit him best, and so can
tell what to send for next year. After the seed has
been planted a day or two, dip a piece of brown paper
or cloth in water, as warm as you would wish to put
your hand in, and spread it over the whole surface of
the ground. This covering should be remoistened in
warm water every day or two, but especial care must
be taken to remove it when the little tomato plants be-
gin to “get their backs up” through the soil, which
you may expect in a week or ten days after sowing.
Stir the surface of the soil between the rows from time
to time, and moisten just enough to keep the plants
growing nicely, but not enough to force them along.
They would better be too dry than too wet. The
dryer the warmer, the less lable to rot, or to grow
too fast, and be long, slm, weak plants. Keep them
from getting stunted, but have them grow as short and
stubby as you can get them. Transplanting will eftect
them less disastrously then when they go out into the
world,

When they are two inches high prepare another

68 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO,

similar box to the one used at first, or boxes as may
be needed. Make the plants very wet, then raise
or pry them out so as to retain as much of the dirt upon
the roots as possible, and set them out again in rows
two inches apart and two inches from each other in the
row. Be sure to keep the different kinds separate, so
you will know which from which. When these plants
get to crowding each other, or about four or five
Inches high, pass a sharp knife midway between
the plants on each side. This, if you have followed di-
rections carefully, will give you a little plot two inches
square to each plant, and this plant will stand exactly
in the middle of it. Make them wet as before, and re-
set three or four inches apart, rowed both ways. If the
square plat of dirt is taken with the roots, they will
hardly know they were moved. As they grow pass
the sharp knife midway between the rows at least
once in two weeks, to keep the roots from interlock-
ing, and to hold back the plants from growing too
tall. Some extra plants can be set in flower pots if need
be, scattered about the house wherever most convenient,
and best for them to grow. Aim to raise at least three
or four times as many as you need. If you do not need
them, your neighbors will want such plants at five or ten
cents apiece. But do you say, “ This is a great deal of
bother?” Well, no; Ido not think so. Suppose you
take fifty or seventy-five plants over the training I have
suggested, the sum total of your labor is not very great,
and when the fruits come on weeks before home grown
tomatoes are seen on the market, you will have your

HARDENING TOMATO PLANTS. 69

rewards in the satisfaction of having what few others
will have, and of eating refreshing fruit when you want
it most.

As soon as the danger of frosts is past, transplant
in the open garden. Let me suggest that, on all warm
days before you set the plants inthe garden, to open the
window, or place them on the porch where the sun is
warm; this gets them used to out-door life, but you
must not forget for a single time to leave them out, and
let the frosts nip them some cold night, or you will
awaken in the morning to look upon the result with re-
grets for such careless loss of labor.

Harpentnc Tomato Puiants.

“What is gained by starting plants early, and by
frequent transplanting, can easily be lost again by neg-
lecting to harden the plants off properly before their
final transfer to the open ground. In fact, this is the
most prolific source of disappointment and failure in
getting the crop as early as the fine plants promised.

“The transfer from in-door protection to out-door
exposure is always attended with risks, and generally
results in a check to plant growth, from which the
victims will not recover in weeks. Plants grown in hot
beds or greenhouses should always be transferred to
cold frames and left entirely without sash protection for
a considerable time before they are set out in the open
ground.

“The wise man always abides his time. Don’t let
your impatience hurry you and induce you to bed out

70 LININGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

plants before the ground has become thoroughly warmed
through. The check is not owing to root mutilation or
disturbance (as such would be beneficial rather than
otherwise), but to change of atmospheric surroundings,
soil, temperature, etc. The plant accustomed to hard-
ships by previous exposure will sufter but little by the
change.’—FKarm and Fireside.

For different methods of eultivation in the garden,
see Paragraphs 45 to 49, inclusive. If you do not wish
to grow the plants for yourself, reliable seedsmen will
furnish them cheaply by express. This is a good way
to get good plants, of good kinds, when you need them.

388. Common Hotbeds.

all who wish to raise more tomatoes than they desire for

It will be necessary for

their own use, to think of it in the fall of the year pre-
- ceding that when they would raise the crop, in order to
make the proper provisions for it. A warm, sunny spot
should be chosen, on the south or southeast of buildings or
other protection from north or northwest winds. Indeed,
if these are not conveniently situated the grower should
build a tight board fence eight or ten feet high, on the
north and west sides of the place where he wishes to locate
his hotbeds. These ought to be put as close to this fence
as possible, and leave room to walk around between the
fence and the beds. One thing must not be overlooked
in the choice of a site for a hotbed, viz.: If the subsoil
is porous it will not need drainage, but if it holds water
the hotbed must be located so as to underdrain with
ordinary tbree-inch tiles.

THE COMMON HOTBED. 71

The best way to make these beds is to excavate the
soil, with their length running east and west, for a depth
of two feet, in the fall before frosts harden the ground.
Drive a stout stake 2x2 or 2x3 inches carefully in each
of the corners. Nail to these, on the outside, boards so
the bed will be eighteen inches high on the north side
and six inches high on the south side, and slope the ends
to meet the sides so enclosing it. Bank up the north
side and the ends with the dirt thrown out. If you buy

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HOTBED. HOTBED SASH.

sash expressly for the purpose (which you can of almost
any first-class seedsman), it ought to be three feet by
six feet in size, as this is probably the most convenient.
Of course any kind of sash can be used, but in any case
the size of the hotbed must be made to fit the sash used
over it; and any size of hotbed can be made as desired,
but almost the universal practice is to make them about
six feet wide, and as long as will secure as many square
feet of hotbed space as is needed.

Now we have the hole dug out, boarded around,
and the earth banked up to it, and this done in the fall
preceding; but you are not through with it yet. Put

re LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

into the bottom of it enough good black, or rich tan-
colored soil (having sand in it to loosen and make it
warm) to fill it seven inches deep. On this throw in
and “firm down” enough fresh manure from the stable
to keep this good soil and the inside of the hotbed from
freezing until it is needed, about the middle of February
or first of March. On some sunny day when this time
arrives, remove this manure, piling it out on all sides
except on the south side; also take out the good soil,
placing it on the south side of the bed, exercising care
to pulverize it as fine as possible in the handling of it.
Now put into this vacant bed eighteen inches of fresh
manure from the stable, that which will produce the
greatest heat, and tramp it down tightly, and make it
as level on the surface as you can. If the manure is too
dry to heat, make it wet with hot water. Spread on
top of this manure the rich soil six inches deep. To get
it evenly spread, you must put on the whole six inches
as you go. It you put two inches on, and then some
more, and then more, you will get it in uneven thick-
nesses and it will not. work so well. Now place the
glass over it, and, in a day or two, as soon as it gets warm
and dry, it is ready for the seed.

34. Sowing Seed in the Hotbed.—Make little
furrows on the surface of the bed, one inch deep and
three inches apart. This will make the entire surface
into little ridges and hollows. Sow your seed broadcast
upon the bed thus prepared, so it will contain about two
hundred and fifty seeds to the square foot. Then take

'

)

SOWING SEED IN THE HOTBED. 7

a

your garden rake, turn it teeth upwards, and with the
back of it on the surtace, lightly and diagonally draw it
over the ridges until it isall level again. Nearly all the
plants will then come up in rows. This plan saves
much time and many back aches. The soil should be
“firmed down” on the seed as soon as yon have it in the
ground, This is done conveniently with a board of
suitable size, and your weight put on it; or witha small,
heavy

Y
7

kinds are sown, the ordinary method of sowing a row

hand roller. When small quantities of various

at a time should be observed. Be sure to mark carefully
where you have planted this kind or that, so that you can
know what you are planting out later in the season.
Do not depend on memory; mark it, so you will know.
Care must be taken now to keep the hotbed the right
temperature. It will be advisable for beginners to use
a thermometer, although persons of experience can tell
by merely putting their hand ander the sash. If it gets
above 90° F. it is too hot, or below 50° F. it is too cold.
A range from sixty to eighty degrees will be right. If
the bed gets too hot, raise the sash, and equalize the
heat by letting in the outside air; but if this does not
cool the soil, and it is still too hot for the plants, then,
about each square yard, push down into the manure be-
low, a stick lke a broom-handle, remove carefully, and
pour in a buckettfull of cold water to each hole. And,
likewise, if the manure does not make it hot enough,
pour into such holes hot water instead of cold. The
heat may be increased, after the seed is planted, by re-
moving the manure and some soil trom about the out-

V4 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

side of the beds, and packing them all around with fresh,
hot manure from the stable.

You may expect the seed to come up in eight or
ten days. Keep all weeds out; stir the soil with a weeder

WEEDERS.

EXCELSIOR. LANGS.

once a week, and keep only wet enough to make plants
grow well, but not so as‘to force them, or you will get
long, slim plants where you need stalky, short, thick,
stout ones. Keep the sash open as much as is prudent
on warm days, whether the sun shines, or it is raining.
It makes the plants healthier and accustoms them more
certainly to the conditions of the out-door life they must
lead a little later on.

385. More Extended Hotbeds.

be necessary where it is desirable to go into the business

These may also

of raising plants for market, or where the grower wishes
more permanent arrangements than the common hot-
beds; or where he wishes to raise, as in the hothouse,
other crops under glass before he needs to plant the
seeds for tomatoes. These may be made more or less
costly, as opportunity and means, or taste, may show to
be wise. Thesite should be chosen in a place with good
drainage, protected on the north and west, and having
the sun shining upon it all day long. The length of the
building should run, not east and west like the common

MORE EXTENDED HOTBEDS. 75

hotbed, but north and south lke the hothouse. They

may be constructed of quarry stone, second-hand brick,
or of any lumber at hand and which may be suitable for
the purpose. Excavate to the depth of two or two and
a half feet, and seven feet wide, and to any length to
give the desired amount of surface. Wall up the sides
to four inches. above the surface of the ground on
each side, and each end to a point, in the center, corres-
ponding to the comb of the house. For rafters use
strips of some good hard wood three inches wide and
one inch thick, and a little longer than the sash to be
used; and it should be, say, three by four feet; then
each rafter would be four feet and three inches long.
These rafters should be cut in the ordinary way, only to
go up edgewise thus,

vp
ZG
Z
Z\ S.B. Sales
Z
Z

r. r.—Rafters, which are exactly equal in size.
s. b.—A section of the side-boards, an end view, on which the rafters rest fora plate.

Enough of the rafter should extend above the side-
boards to be a little above the sash, which is also to rest
on the side-board at the lower ends, and constitute a
main part of the roof. Between the rafters at the top
is to be nailed in a strip one inch square (see cut as at

76 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

a), and long enough to reach two inches above the tip-
top point of the comb. This two inches is to be whit-
tled to a three-quarters inch round. Upon then is to
be dropped a strip three inches wide and one thick,
having holes bored to suit, to act as a ridgepole. A set
of these rafters is to go at each end, and a pair between
each pair of sash, which comb upon each other at the
top, just under the ridgeboard, while the lower ends he
on the upper edge of the side-boards. To adjust the
sash, drive a stiff wire nail with a flat, thin head,
through the rafter into the side of the sash, about eigh-
teen inches from the top, on each side of it. This
makes a perfect hinge. Then the next pair are fastened
in, say, nineteen inches from the top, in the same way ;
and your building is complete. There ought to be a
little slide door, or ventilator, in each end. When the
grower wishes to work in this hotbed, by having a-stick
about a yard long, and loosely hinged with a staple at
the. bottom end of sash, he can quickly adjust it at any
angle desired. If he bores holes in it, and in the rafters
to correspond, he can, with a pin, set the sash perpen-
dicularly, or at any angle, in order to let in a warm
spring shower so as to save much labor in watering his
plants. He can thus. regulate the temperature of this
house also. One advantage over the common hotbed is
that you can work it from each sice, and never have to
handle the sash except to raise and lower them.
Prepare for these hotbeds and plant in them the
same as already described in Paragraphs 32 and 33. In
these houses crops of lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, or

A CIRCULAR HOTHOUSE. VE

other things could be grown before needed tor tomatoes.
It desired for winter crops, especially of tomatoes, by
lengthening the sash, excavating in the earth deeper,
and introducing artificial heat, a profitable hothouse can
be very cheaply constructed in this way.

36. A Circular Hothouse.—I have never tried
it, but I have often thought about a Circular Hothouse,
which seemed to me might be very profitable, where a
man had the material at hand and could do most of the.
work himself in building it. Locate the house on a
warm southern slope, with an incline of thirty degrees
to the east. Excavate on the upper side, throwing the
earth down hill, sufficient to secure a circular level place
thirty feet in diameter. Excavate still deeper for a
furnace below the level, in the center of this plat, and
wall up to the surface; also wall up a way out to the
south on a level with the furnace room floor. Directly
over the furnace construct a hothouse bed in a circle
with a diameter of eight feet. Around this conduct a
walk of two feet in width, and around this again, con-
struct plant beds seven feet in width ; and then another
walk of two feet all around this. Cover the whole with
glass aud sash; and also near the sides with glazed sash
three feet by three feet. The entrance to it must be
from the entry to furnace room, by a stair leading up
under the seven-toot bed, in opposite directions, to the
walks. If it can be located below a spring of water, the
water needed can be conducted through the building by
pipes, and be most convenient. This house will, no

78 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

doubt, cost more to construct than one in the form of a
rectangle with square corners; and yet the advantages
of heating, watering, and working this one would pay
well for it.

37. Cold Frames.—These are made like common
hotbeds (see Paragraph 33), only not so deep nor havy-
ing so much manure—ten inches is enough—in them
under the soil, so it is not necessary to dig out so deep
for them; these are covered with glass, or what is much
cheaper and more easily handled, they may be covered
with hotbed oiled cloth, or “Plant Bed Cloth,” as seeds-

PLANT BED CLOTH.

men call it. By tacking it to ight frames, three teet
wide by six feet long, they can be used most handily.
These cold frames are for receiving the plants when the
grower first transplants them from the hotbeds, or resets
them again to keep them “stalky.” It also gives them
more room to grow, and as it is not so warm, the-plants
are got a little hardier for out-door life when the frosts
come on no more.

The plants should be lifted out with a garden
trowel, put into a shallow tray, and “ prieked out” with a
dibble, or angle transplanting trowel, into the cold frame
as described in Paragraph 32. They should be set three
or four inches apart,and rowed straight both ways. They

COLD FRAMES. 79

grow well, and work easily this way with the hand
weeder (see cut). This makes it possible, also, to prune
the roots by passing a knife midway between the plants,
each way of the rows, about once a week, with the re-

CLEVES! ym SOLID STEEL 2 =:
TRANSPLANTING ; —_ Qe te
TROWEL. > CHpEAeS

CLEVES ANGLE TRANSPLANTING TROWEL. DIBBLE.

sult of keeping the plants short and stout. It is an ad-
vantage, too, when the final transplanting comes, as you
‘an take this earthen cube of three or four inches di-
mensions along with the plant, and it will hardly recog-
nize that it has gone “out into the world,” and can
now make the most of itself without any great hindrance
in * getting started in life.”

GARDEN TROWEL.

I wish to remark here, that whoever labors at this
kind of work should constantly study what conditions
are best for his plants throughout all the changes they
must make; and also, how he can most cheaply and
conveniently aftord them these good conditions. In one

80 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

sentence, study to do the best things easiest; tor labor,
time, or expense, saved habitually, is almost equivalent
to cash in hand. .

For Southern growers, I want to make a suggestion
in regard to Cold Frames: only for them they should be
called Heat Frames; for as the former is against cold in
the North, so in the South could they be used against
heat. Especially would this advantage appear 1n raising
an early crop in winter. Locate this Frame in a some-
what shaded, cool place. If the natural shade cannot
be found, then make it artificially of lumber, brush,
cloth, or anything at hand. No manure is needed; just
level off the place, drive the stakes, nail up the boards,
bank up the dirt to the boards, and cover with “ Plant-
bed Cloth.” Put in good soil in which to sow the seed,
and plant it in July or August. Open at might, but
cover in the day-time. If it is very hot weather, and
lable to burn them, saturate the soil all around the bed
with cold water. In this way an earlier winter crop can
be grown; for now Southern growers must wait till the
weather 1s cool enough “out 0’? doors” to grow their
plants, and so lose much good trade they could by these
means otherwise attain.

For Canners, or those who grow tor them, no hot
bed is needed, only these Cold Frames for earhest, as one
transplanting will answer. Large growers find time
only for this or resetting. They plant enough later so
that the weather is not cold enough to demand more
heat than these afford. Indeed, many of these growers
sow the seed in drills in the open field, in rich soil, about

COLD FRAMES. 81

the middle of April, and reset from these rows in the
field. The risk is too great. It would pay better to
build and use the Cold Frames. The latest crop might
be risked this way, by planting the first of May. The
Cold-Frames are an advantage because they are the
means by which plants acquire age without growing tall
and spindling, and so bear earher after they are set out
in the field, and are less stunted by the transfer. The
importance of “stalky” plants cannot be over-estimated.
However, if your plants do get too tall and slender by
the time you dare risk them “out o’ doors,” do not
throw them away, but do one of two things: either pull
them and “heel them in,” as fruit men say of trees—that
is, put them in bunches of twenty-five or fifty, and cover
the roots in the ground; water well, and when it is well
soaked away cover plants with dry earth pretty well up
on the stalks. Or you can let them grow and then trans-
plant, by letting the stalk le along in the furrow, covering
it with about the same depth of earth as commonly sets
a plant, and leaving only so much of the top above ground
as can “hold up its head.” It will not do to set them
deep in the ground, as they will rot off; but as above, it
is an advantage, because at the joints roots will grow
out and feed the plant more than common, and force it
faster than otherwise. Indeed, some growers urge this
as the best way to get an early and productive crop.
Cold Frames for an acre, with plants set as directed
above, viz.: three inches each way from each other,
would require to be thirty feet long by six feet wide, or
its equivalent in shorter beds. To put it in round num-

82 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

bers, an ounce of tomato seed has twenty-five hundred
seeds; by this you can calculate how much seed you will
want, and how much hotbed space it will take to grow
your plants. Never depend on just barely enough to go
around. No telling what may happen. Calculate for
abundance of plants.

38. Preparation of Soil in the Field for the
Plants.—Tomatoes can be grown wherever corn could
be planted. Crops will vary also in proportion to the
productiveness of the soil. Select a field of sandy black
loam or rich tan-colored clayey soil. To get the best
fruits, land that is rich enough to fetch fifty to seventy-
five bushels of corn to the acre should be chosen. Plow
under a clover sod in the fall, or if possible in February,
so it will get a good freeze or two. If the clover sod
cannot be had, then take the next best field, viz.: the
second crop after clover. I prefer for tomatoes to im-
prove the land by “clovering” above all other kinds of
fertilizers. Next to clover I use well-rotted stable man-
ure. In order to get it well rotted I pitch it over in the
early spring, at least once a month. By piling it over
itself two or three times it will not burn itself out by its
own heat and be almost useless, nor yet will it leach out
with rains falling on it. For any crop where stable
manure is used, this is a most Important point. It can
not be out of place here to say, no man can aftord to go
from year to year without a large saucer-shaped space,
with one side of it near his barn, where he throws out
his manures, so that as it heaps up he can pile it over,

THE MARKER. 83

and so on, to the other side, when he will have a heap
of compost which would delight the eye of any man
intelligent enough to know its commercial value. This
shallow basin ought to be three times as large as neces-
sary to hold the manure, and cemented, or have clay that
will hold water well pounded in all over the bottom of it.

If the grower fertilizes with this for a tomato crop,
let him spread on broadcast over his land a heavy coat
from one to four inches—and plow it under in the spring.
If the land was plowed in the fall, no matter, plow
again. No crop is hurt by thorough plowing and plenty

of pulverizing before the plants are set in the ground.
Of course commercial fertilizers can be used to advan-
tage, but it can be applied best when transplanting or
growing, and they will be described in place. In a word,
whatever will thoroughly prepare a rich field in good
shape for any common crop, will be all right for tomatoes.

39. The Marker.— W hen it comes time to put the
plants into the open field you will be ina hurry, and you
will find it very advisable to prepare for it previously,
during any leisure time you may have in the winter.
A Marker will be needed, and I here submit a plan for
one, which I used for a good many years. It is made
like a sled with plank runners, only it has four runners
instead of two, and they are thicker and shorter than
usual for sleds, and set four feet apart—‘r” is the run-
ner, made of pine or other lumber. They should be
three feet long, six inches wide, and three inches thick.
“Se” is a scantling, two by four inches, and a little over

84 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

twelve feet long. It should set into the upper edge of
the runners, about three inches back from the front end,
to the depth of one or one and a half inches, and be
spiked down firmly. On the rear ends nail a strong
board, one inch thick and fourteen wide, having same
length as scantling (see “B” in cut). Any blacksmith
can make hinges or clips, as at “e” “ce” in cut, to receive
a tongue for hitching a team to it. A good way to do
is to find some tongue or “pole” belonging to an old
spring wagon no longer used, then it ean be lett in all

MARKER.

the time, and the marker is always ready the year around.
It is not an unhandy conveyance to have around anyhow,
as it can be used for many things, such as moving plows,
harrows, and even stones or other rubbish, wherever
desired. The driver, when using it tor a marker, usually
stands on the broad board, and drives across the field,
and by using stakes secures straight rows.

Now, from the tenth to the twentieth of May, or
after you are satisfied that danger from frosts and real
cold nights are past, and having your ground well plowed
and harrowed, take the marker, and driving to stakes

THE MARKER. 85

set in the ordinary way, make rows as straight as possi-
ble across the field. This will give four rows “at a
through,’ and so mark out your ground pretty rapidly.
By using a shovel plow, or similar implement, draw
furrows across these markings from two feet to seven,
us may be needed. For Dwarf Champion, Aristocrat,
any tree-like kinds, or any variety for training or stalk-
ing up, from two to three feet will be wide enough to
furrow out the ground. Acme and Potato Leaf may
be furrowed from three to four feet apart, while all other
varieties for “down-culture” will need to be placed from
four to seven feet apart. The kind, the tendency to
vine, and the strength of the soil, must decide how far
plants should be set apart. One thing is certain, there
is far more danger of getting them too close than too
far from each other in the field. It looks like a great
waste of land to set plants seven feet apart, but it will
pay to do it on rich soil, and for the best kinds. If the
tops interlap or overlap each other, much injury is done
the crop. When in New Jersey and Delaware among
the canners this last fall, 1892, I found that their Para-
gon Tomatoes (noted everywhere for its adaptability for
a late crop) were all intertwined and overlapped, and I
feel sure it was the cause of a complaint that the toma-
toes were small on the “last pickings.” No one expects
to get six stalks of good corn in each hill; neither should
he if he plants two stalks of tomatoes where only one
should be. Some growers plant “First in Market Peas,”
or other quickly maturing crop, between the rows, and
so save something of this apparent waste of land. Let

86 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

me suggest, also, that the grower do not mark off more
ground than he can set out while it is still fresh and
moist in the furrows. If they get rained on and dried
hard in the sun, run the shovel plow through again in
the furrow. It will do no harm, if your ground is a
hittle hard or cloddy, to run a second time in each fur-
row anyhow. It affords more fine dirt for transplanting.
If you wish to use commercial fertilizers, secure and
have ready in the field at this juncture, put into the
crossing of your marking out about a gill, and hoe it in
a little with a common hoe. A complete fertilizer for a
tomato crop, to be sowéd broadcast and harrowed in, is
as follows: Dried ground fish, 853 Ibs.; dissolved bone
black, 210 Ibs.; muriate of potash, 150 Ibs. Stated in
per cents, it would be: Nitrogen 5, phosphoric acid 10,
potash 8. A 1,000 Ibs. per acre will be needed. It
should be put on the day before the plants are set in the
ground. In general, fertilizers mostly nitrogen and
potash seem best suited for the tomato. On rich soils,
use less nitrogen and more potash, as a rule. From
Semper’s “Manures,” on pages 149 and 150, I quote the
following fertilizers for tomatoes per acre:

No. 1. Nitrate of soda,. . : : .~ 200 Lbs.
Dried blood, . ; ; LOO ye
Cotton seed meal, : “30008
Dissolved bone-black, 400 *
Dissolved South Carolina rock, — . e AOGI-“*
Muriate of Potash, . LOO *

GEORGIA EXPERIMENTAL STATION.

No. 2. Nitrate of soda, . . 400 lbs.

Superphosphate, 800 “

Le
Muriate of potash, ; mene !).0 MES

TRANSPLANTING INTO THE OPEN FIELD. 87

Every grower ought to try different plant-foods for
his crops till he learns what is best for his fields; but
almost anywhere he may well try a gill of hard wood
ashes to each plant, with good hope of increased harvests.
Let me urge the grower to be thorough in all that he
does. Do not be afraid of work. <A little boy once
said to his father:

“T know what makes these onions grow so well.”

COW ly any, Bon t.”*

“Because you have to get down on your knees so
much to them.”

The-secret of successful gardening consists in attend-
ing diligently to your crop WHEN IT NEEDS IT.

40. Transplanting Into the Open Field.—Turn
back to Paragraph 32 and read it over. During the win-
ter previous make a “Handy Tray” for carrying plants.
It is made of one-half inch lumber. It should be two

HANDY TRAY.

feet long, sixteen inches wide, and four deep. One end
should be left out. In the other end a suitable hole is
cut, so the hand can slip into it, for a handle, while the
open end is caught by the bottom, and so is easily carried.
Sometimes a strong wooden hoop is bended over in the

S88 LIVINGSTON. AND. THE TOMATO.

middle from side to side, and makes a basket-like handle.
A shallow goods box (made over a little) will answer
very well. If each hand setting out plants carries a
tray with him, then the handle is a disadvantage, for he
drags his tray full of plants along the ground, and sets
as he goes. If one drops plants and another sets them
out, then the handle is an advantage, for he can carry it
with one hand and drop with the other.

An hour or two before beginning the work of trans-
planting, or about one or two o’clock P. M., pass the knife
between the plants midway between the rows each way,
at least four inches deep; then wet the plants thoroughly
and let the water soak into the ground for one or two
hours. During this time enough furrowing out for that
evening can be done. Then take trays enough to hold
all the plants to be wet that evening. You will need a
small mason’s trowel, or better, Cleaves’ Steel Dibber,”
flat blade, two and a half inches by nine, having a spade-

hike handle.

FLAT BLADE DIBBER. CLEVES ROUND DIBBER.

By using this in the cold frame, the three or four
inch cubes of soil with a plant in its center can be
taken out, one by one, and slipped off into the tray.
Elevate the open end of the tray a little, and commenc-
ing at the closed end of it, pack in the plants till it is
full. Care should be taken not to:erush the soil from

TRANSPLANTING INTO THE OPEN FIELD. 89

the roots in handling them. As each tray is filled place
in the wagon, and when sufficient number is obtained all
hands are away to the field.

A careful way here is for each hand to take a tray,
and following a row, slip the plants out into the furrow
at the crossings, keeping them upright and as much soil
about the rootlets as possible. When in place, press some
fine soil around the plant with the hand, so it will stand
firmly. It will not come amiss then to water each plant
(about a pint to the plant), and the next morning go
along with the hoe and hill up the dirt to it. It will
hardly know it is moved in this way, if they have been
“hardened off” well (see Paragraph 32), and this will
add to the earliness of your “earliest of all” at least a
week. Have a care, also, if you take different kinds in
your trays, or in the same wagon-load, not to get them
mixed up in setting them out.

Let me put in a warning against the use of “vyol-
unteer plants,” or such as come up of their own accord
in the spring on soil planted to tomatoes the year before.
They cannot be depended on as true to kind, not even
it the best of selected stock seed was used the year pre-
vious. My crop was once destroyed by cut-worms, and
I used some volunteer plants and had seed that produced
all sorts. Iam often asked: “Why will not ‘volunteers’
come true to kind?” Tam not able fully to answer this
question, but I have a theory which may help some one
else to study it out. It seems strange that it is so; in-
deed, it appears impossible, yet I know it is true. It is
worst in the South—in Florida, Mississippi, and else-

GQ) LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

where—where frosts do not kill them out during the
winter. Things left to themselves get wild, degenerate,
“run out.’ Without coddling or nursing under the
most favorable circumstances for their growth, they keep.
only the most hardy qualities, while the best and tender-
est parts retain only enough of themselves to sustain
life—that is, these parts run down to the lowest range
of limit and live. Hence the difference between a wild
native tomato and one of my improved smooth varieties.
I have no question but the best tomato on the markets
to-day, if left to itself for eight or ten’ years, would
“run out” or degenerate to the lowest point of its limi-
tations; but that same tomato, if not crossed with other
kinds, could be brought up again (by observing to put
it under right conditions) to the highest point of exeel-
lence within its limitations. Hence it will be seen that
the stock-seed grower must be one who understands how
to “keep up” their excellencies, if the fruit-growers get
what they desire, and ought to have, from year to year.
Another reason lies in the fact, that if this is any kind
of tomato which has any original wild mixed blood in
it, lying out all winter is calculated to furnish the con-
ditions for its development; and hence it appears, while
under the better or higher cultivation, such things would
continue latent, and might not be seen for years.
Coming back from this digression about ‘‘volun-
teers” to the matter of Transplanting again, another
way of handling the plants for field culture, especially
for large acreages, when so great care cannot be taken
for want of time, and because of expense of extra help,

TRANSPLANTING INTO THE OPEN FIELD. Q]

is to let one hand take the tray on his arm and drop one
plant in each hill, with the tops all one way; then an-
other can follow up, coming to the plant against its top
instead of its roots, and with his “Cleaves’ Dibber” (or
similar implement) make a slanting hole in the soil in
the Rill, and lifting it, slip the tomato root in and let
the dirt fall back on the plant, giving it a little firming
down with his foot as he passeson. With practice, boys
sixteen to twenty years old get to be experts in the use
of the dibber. Afterwards apply the water, and hoe up
the next morning, as before described. In this way
plants can be set out until the first of July for a general
crop. Sometimes, if desirable, the seed can be planted

SOWING SEED.

in rows In some rich, waste soil in the open field, from
Ist of May to the 15th of same month. To transplant
these, wet the rows thoroughly two hours before pulling
them; pull, and set as described before in this paragraph,
but always put the water to them and hoe in the dry soil

92 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

after the water soaks away. Not many plants will be
lost this way, but they will be stunted a little, and so
will not bear fruit so early after transplanting as plants
raised in hotbeds and brought up in the cold-frames.
It is never necessary to wait for wet weather in order to
transplant successtully. Plenty of water used in taking
the plants up, and also in setting out again, insures a
good supply of rootlets and good mingling of them in
the ground again. If this is followed with the hoe or
suitable cultivation almost at once, the results are more
satisfactory than when one works in soil that is too wet,
for then the soil is apt to bake, and sometimes hardens
around a stalk and fairly girdles it.

Do not get nervous, and put your plants out too
early. Nothing is gained by it. Cold rains, cold nights,
danger of frosts, and shady days, injure them and de-
stroy many plants. Wait till you feel you will have
warm, growing weather, then stick them in. I have
waited till the first of June for early here, and then came
into market before others who had set out two or three
weeks ahead of me. <A good way to tell when it is safe
to risk transplanting in the field, is to watch the buds
on the oak trees, and when the leaves are like a squirrel’s
foot the time has come for first early to be set out in
the field.

41. Implements for Cultivation.—These may be
any ordinary implements for cultivating the soil, such as
one has at hand and employs in other crops; but what-
ever is to be used should be on the ground, for cultiva-

'

CULTIVATION OF FIELD CROP. 93

tion must begin at once after the transplanting is finished
in the field. The Planet, Jr., implements are, all in all,
the best in the market, and can be bought of seedsmen
everywhere. The Planet, Jr., Horse Hoe and the Planet,
Jr., One-Horse Harrow, for surface and level cultivation,
are A No. 1.

PLANET, JR,, TWELVE-TOOTH HARROW, WITH
PULVERIZER ATTACHED.

PLANET, JR., HORSE HOE AND CULTIVATOR
COMBINED.

42. Cultivation of Field Crop.—Tomatoes need
culture as soon after transplanting as possible, and after
that about once a weels till the vines fall down and make
further cultivation impracticable. But even then, if the
season has been such as to allow big weeds to show
themselves above the plants, go through after a heavy
shower and pull them out by hand. The fine steel-
toothed one-horse harrow is best for level and first cul-
tivation. The Planet, Jr., Cultivator will answer tor
second and third eultivation. If marked out to sow

Q4 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

e

both ways of the tield, and if at all convenient, work
the crop both ways alternately. Great care must be
aken not to disturb the roots after the plants fall down
or are in bloom. Very shallow culture is best after the
plants begin to spread out over the field. The same
general matters of importance in the culture of any
crop apply to raising tomatoes in their “down-cultiva-
tion” in the open field.

Work them well, keep the ground clear of weeds,
give them room to “spread themselves,’ and the grower
will not need to complain of results.

MULCHING TOMATOES—-PRUNING ON DOWN-CULTURE. 995

Other methods, more or less practical to some of
my readers, deserve mention and description here.
According to circumstances or desires of the growers,
they have been employed to greater or less advantage.
These are Staking up and Trellising in various ways,
which are increasingly popular from season to season.

43. Mulching Tomatoes.—For down-culture,
there may be added to the above methods of ordinary
cultivation that of mulching the ground quite heavily
under the vines with straw. This is especially desirable
for a dry, sunny hillside location or for dry seasons, or
in any kind of light soil that spatters up badly on the
fruit, or in very weedy, foul ground. This 1s only prac-
ticable when one has the straw and not too large an
acreage to cover. It is especially desirable to turn the
vines a little along the rows, and, it may be, to trim the
tops that seek to drop over to their neighbor’s rows, so
as to leave a comfortable and convenient walk between
them to gather the fruit. Land is not generally so
scarce as yet in America that we cannot afford to give
our tomatoes plenty of room to grow all they want to,
and so do us better service all around. Try some toma-
toes with this straw mulch, and see how it works for
you. If the season turns out wet, then draw the straw
away from the roots and leave between the rows.

44. Pruning on Down-Culture. — If a grower
has the time and working force to do it, there is real,
substantial gain to pass along the rows, and when the

96 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

side-shoots begin to appear select, say four, of the most
vigorous and let these only grow—cut off all the rest.
If you cut them off as fast as they get to be an inch or
two long, you will get the best results out of the trim-
ming. You will need to pass over them several times
to get it best done, but you will lke it in improved
quality of fruits gained. Some also advocate cutting
the ends of vines off after the tenth of September. This
ean be done as conveniently with a common hand corn-
knife as anything else, and may be worth atrial, although
I cannot speak from any definite experiences of my own.

45. Staking up Tomatoes.—For a considerable
crop, this method is being tried more and more, and the
evidence of experience is in favor of it, where it can be
done at all. In some of the Southern States their field
crop is raised in this way. It is a most advantageous
method for farmers, village, or city gardeners. The stakes
may be poles of two or three inches growth and six to
eight feet long, or sawed lumber of one inch thick by
two or three wide, and the same length as above. These
should be got ready during leisure time, the winter pre-
vious. After the second cultivation in the open field,
or when the plants are twelve or fifteen inches high, just
before they fall down and begin to spread out, put the
stakes in the front end of a wagon or sled—not more
than one-half a load. A wide-awake boy can drive the
team straddle of the second row in the field. T’'wo men,
with an ax apiece, can set and drive them, one in the
first and the other in the third row on each side of the

TYING UP. 97

conveyance, and by taking every other one they can also
place a stake in the row at the rear of the vehicle. They
can do this without getting out, and so set three rows
“at a through,” and with good speed. These stakes
should, of course, be sharpened beforehand, and when
left should stand quite firmly in the ground.

Another method of fixing these stakes in place, is
to take a reasonably heavy crowbar of iron, having a
sharp point and a swell above it to make a hole about
same size as the stake to be set. By raising it up and
forcing it into the ground a few times in the same place,
a hole of sufficient size and depth will be made, so that
when the stake is thrust into it solidly, and the earth
tramped firmly about the surface with the feet, it will
stand ready for service. An ax or sledge can also be
used to drive a short stake with a ring of iron around
the top to keep it from splitting, and when removed
carefully the tall stake can be set in the hole, as described
above. If any one has other methods which are handier
for them, they will answer. The point to be attained is
to get a stake from four to six feet above ground, which
is strong enough, and set firm enough, to hold up a
tomato vine in full bearing, and to get this ready and in
the hill by the time the plant is ready to topple over on
the ground.

46. Tying up to the stake is done by using some
soft twine, jute, or raffia, which can be bought of seeds-
men at a few cents a pound, although any kind of string
will answer if not so fine and hard as to cut the plant.

98 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

With this tie /oosely around the plant and tightly around
the stake one foot from the ground; again tie at two
feet high, and another at three feet, and another at four,
and, if necessary, another at five; but the last tying
should be made firm to the plant, because the heavy fruit
must be sustained; yet this last tying should also be
above where the fruit “sets” on the vines. Here let me
say, that some of the objects of “staking up” are to get
larger, cleaner, smoother, better flavored fruits, and
especially an earlier, and a larger number of choice,
marketable fruits to the vine. Many, therefore, when
about tive to eight clusters have set on each stalk, do not
let more grow on it, but while prtning trim them off,
and throw the strength of the vine into these clusters.
They claim that this brings quicker and more “earliest
of all” than ordinary culture. This necessitates “ Prun-
ing,” which we will describe in the next paragraph.
Ancther method of “tying up,” especially if you
have flat stakes, is to take a piece of braid, or a strip of
cloth or leather, three-quarters inch wide and four to six
inches long. Give it one turn around the plant, and
drive a tack through the two ends lapped over each
other and into the stake, at each foot of its growth. If
two shoots are allowed to grow, tack on opposite sides
of the stake, so as to fasten a shoot on each side. Here
again anything will answer that holds the plant up to
the stake and does not injure the growth of the vine.
I might say, for Western men who will likely want to
use pine board stakes, dip the part of the stake that
goes Into the ground, and a foot. more of it, into hot,

el yen

TYING UP. QQ

strong brine, having a pint of tar to every two gallons
of brine, put into it when hot. It will help, too, to put
into it a little crude carbolic acid, also a little cheap oily
matter, like crude petroleum. This is a cheap decoction
which will go a long way, and pay well in preserving
your stakes. Stakes should be piled up in a dry shed
when not in use.

Another thing, if only a few clusters are allowed
to grow on a vine, then a succession of plants should be
set every two weeks until the fourth of July, so as to
have others coming on after these all ripen. The last
set out will be in the first flush for ripening about the
time frosts come, so that quite a goodly lot can be held
to ripen in a dry, sunny cellar, or shed which is frost-
proof, and will sell to advantage.

All kinds of faney “staking up” tor beauty or profit
will afford pleasure for those who have a taste for such
crops, and pay well. If one wishes to see how much
fruit he can make a single stalk bear, and have for his
labor something that will attract his neighbor’s attention
as he passes by, let him, for each plant, dig a hole not
less than two and a half feet square and two deep. Fill
it with rich soil mixed in equal parts with thoroughly
well-rotted manure. As this compost is put in, “firm it”
around a strong post to stand six or eight feet out of
the ground, and nail to it any arrangements of bars,
straight or curved, or hoops in any shape or form to suit
the grower’s fancy, and then train by tying up a good
supply of the strongest branches, as before described.
By nailing strong wooden hoops, such as are found on

100 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

sugar barrels, about two feet in diameter, to the two
opposite sides of the post, as shown in the illustration,
a “tree-tomato” can be made which will delight the eyes
of all who see it. For the top and bottom hoops, cut
into the side of post about one-quarter of an inch, then

HOOP. DIAMOND.

by cutting them in two they can be toe-nailed into the
post and so fastened firmly, and also match the others.
The vines should follow the hoops and leave the clusters
open, also let them cross where the hoops touch. The
smaller hoops are made by cutting apart and overlapping.
The fancy grower may, if he prefers, have something

TRAINING OR PRUNING TOMATOES. 101

very pretty by nailing hard-wood plastering lath, or sim-
ilar strips of any kind of wood, in such lengths as to
make a diamond form. Two strong fence wires should
pass and be stapled around the outer ends of the cleats,
as near an inch apart as may be. Train the shoots out
on these like a grape-vine, and keep well trimmed.
Many other forms might be given and used—in fact,
anything desired.

47. Training or Pruning Tomatoes.—Within a
few days after, or at the time of first tying up to the
stakes or trellis, pass along the rows, select one, or two
at most, of the thriftiest and most promising shoots on
the vine and let these grow. Pinch or cut all the other
sprouts off, and do this as often as is necessary, to keep
the whole strength of the plant growing into these
shoots. It will be needed about once a week. Some
growing on rich ground trim off a portion of the leaves,
keeping only enough to shade duly the fruits from the
hot, scorching suns which occur after summer showers.

A successtul grower, of twenty-three years experi-
ence, gives his methods as follows: “IT havea garden spot
fifty by sixty-four feet in size; but from it I furnish my
family of ten, with all the vegetables they need; and sell
from $25 to $30 worth off surplus. Tomatoes are my
hobby, and I have the reputation of raising the finest in
the market. I gained this by using your kinds, and the
methods I here describe of cultivating them: TI first
prepare my ground by removing the soil for several
feet, put into the trench two feet of manure well tramped

102 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

down, then six inches of soil, and then eight inches of
well-rotted manure, and soil again till Lreach the sur-
face. In such a soil, cut-worms and grubs bred, and
cut off a great deal I planted. Angle worms honey-
combed this soil so that it dried out like an ash heap, as
the dry weather came on; and tomato worms added
their work of destruction on the tender growths I thus
secured. Experience had taught me however, that
tomatoes love a rich soil; so I worked to keep this, and
still get rid of the pests, and I have succeeded. For two
years I have not lost a plant by the worms, and my
neighbors not using my methods have lost heavily
by the ravages of these vermin. My remedy is, ‘To
one bushel of air-slaked lime and one bushel un-
leached ashes, add ten pounds of salt; mix well and
cover over the ground an inch deep, then dig deep
with a spading fork and work into the soil at the
same time more well-rotted manure. Then cover the
surface again with one-half inch of the lime, ash and
salt mixture and rake it in thoroughly with the garden
rake.’ This mixture is a good fertilizer, thus used with
the manure, and is at the same time obnoxious to the
pests that work in the soil. I sow my seed in hot-beds
about the middle of March, and carefully harden my
plants by keeping the sash off whenever possible, and set
out my plants as early in May as is sate—two and one-
half feet apart each way. Into each hill I stick a pole
or board one by two inches and eight feet long. When
plants are eight or ten inches high, tie up to the pole.
When they throw out branchesI select three or four of the

<a

TRAINING OR PRUNING TOMATOES. 103

strongest shoots and pinch off all the rest ; and continue
to pinch them off, but tie the others up as they grow.
I trim out enough leat-limbs so that the fruit is not
crowded and to get air and sun enough for it. About
the tenth of September, I cut off the top. By this severe
trimming, the sap is thrown into the fruit, and the sun
and the air will ripen it in almost any weather. I mulch
the ground well with saw dust around the vines. While
in number I may not get as many tomatoes, as if left to
run at will, but I get far more weight and the quality is
far superior. On his own offer, a grocer paid me in
eash,double the price he could get them for from market
gardeners, and told me he made more out of them,
as he could sell all I could let him have at his own
price and sell easier than others, though he did not
charge so much for them.”

I give the above in full from an Illinois grower, to
show how it confirms the positions we have taken, and
also how well it will pay to do the careful work nece-
essary to secure these results. It is likely this grower
would have succeeded quite as well, and, I think better,
to have trained two stalks up the stake and let two run
over the ground at will. Although by tying loosely for
all the tyings, but the last one, and letting the stalks
swing out, a little apart in ditterent directions from the
stake, it is not astonishing that he got such fine crops
of tomatoes and call it a decided success. Some also
add to the above, bagging (as grapes are.)

There is no reason why those who live in cities or
towns, as well as farmers, might just as well as not have

104 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

all the nice tomatoes they can eat. <A half dozen stalks
fixed and worked as described above, will produce all
any family can eat.

48. Growing Tomatoes in Barrels.—This is a
method strongly recommended in the American Agricul-
turist a few years ago. For early fruit, place a barrel as
large as a coal-oil barrel, in a warm corner about the
buildings.. Let it down in the ground about one-third
its height. Do not forget to bore three or four inch auger
holes in the bottom to let the water out. When the
barrel is well packed in, fill it half full of fresh, hot
stable manure and tramp it down tightly. Pour a
bucket full—two gallons—of hot water upon this ma-
nure, then put on good soil eight inches, then a mix-
ture of well-rotted manure and rich, black loam in about
equal quantities, until you reach about eight to twelve
inches of the top of the barrel, then heap manure around
outside. Set three plants in this and trim to two
shoots each. Train one of these each up on stakes or
on buildings near by. For the other three I advise to
take a strip of cloth about six inches wide, spread it
over straw wadded around the barrel’s chime and tack
it fast, then let the latter shoots grow out over this
cushion and run at will. Be careful to give these plenty
of water. <A gallon each day will not be too much.
Three or four old barrels set around in odd corners
which are likely to be otherwise unimportant will tur-
nish enough tomatoes, and a variety at that, to supply a
tamily of five for a whole year.

TRELLISING TOMATOES. 105

49. Trellising Tomatoes.—During the winter,
prepare stakes—preterably board one or oneand aquarter
inches thick, three wide and four to seven feet long—
as tall kinds or fruitfulness of soil may demand.
Sharpen these so they can be easily driven into the
ground as directed in paragraph 45 on “ Staking up.?
On one edge of these stakes drive wire nails—stift six
or eight pennies, having a large, flat head on them will
answer. Drive the first nail near to top of each stake,
and another each foot downward till the last rail would
be about fifteen inches above the ground when set in
the field, thus—

fe NS a Se

STAKE.

These. nails should be set so as to incline upwards
a little. See cut.

After your growing crop has been worked through
thoroughly with the cultivator, then as described in
paragraph 45, put in the stakes; only set these so that
the edges, with the nails in them, will line along the
row just over the plants. Set these stakes twelve feet
apart in the row, or as near that as can be to set the
stakes four inches trom the plants.

With Wire Netting.

Buy in uneut rolls of one hundred and fitty feet
each wire netting (such as is used for fencing poultry-
runs or yards). It should be galvanized, having three

106 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

inch mesh, and such a width as will have it reach from
the lowest nail on the stake to the highest. Cut this
roll into twelve lengths, each twelve and a half feet long,
and hook on the nails on the stakes, stretching each as
tightly as a man can conveniently pull it, allowing the
ends to lap over each other on the nail in the stakes.
This affords a continuous trellis across the field. For
trellised tomatoes the ground should be marked, or fur-
rowed out in three and a half, or four feet rows, running
north and south where at all convenient. ‘The plants
should be set about two feet apart in the rows. In eul-
tivating atter the wire netting is put on the stakes use a
short single-tree, from a toot to fifteen inches long. To
the right end of it fasten firmly a piece of hickory, broad
enough to cover the end and clip on single-tree, and long
enough to reach eight inches up the tug. It should come
to a poimt at the upper end. When the tug is to be
hitched on that side, first slip on it a thin, flat iron ring,
then hook on the tug, and slip the ring down over the
point of the stick, until it is held firmly to the tug.

This will let the end of the single-tree pass by vines
and wires without catching on them, and so enable the
grower to cultivate throughout the entire season if he
desires. Only we recommend very shallow cultivation
after the plants begin to bloom.

It may seem expensive to buy the wire netting; but
with care it will last for years, and is as cheap as any-
thing else one can buy. To be sure, you can use other
kinds of wire fencing, such as the steel wire Fence Board
tour inches wide; the Keystone; the McMullen; the

TRELLISING TOMATOES. 107

Sedgwick and the Page woven-wire fencing; or one can
use smooth fence wires on each side of the stakes, run-
ning them the whole length of the row, a pair of them
each foot upward from the ground.

The tying up and the pruning will be done the same
as described for “staking up” (see paragraphs 45 and
46), except this: we suggest that about four shoots be
tied up and spread out along the wires, so that the shoots
will, as they grow up the trellis, be equal distances from
each other. The particular advantage of the wire net-
ting, or wire fence-board, or woven wire of any kind, is
that no tying up is necessary; for when the grower
pinches off unnecessary growths, he simply pushes the
tops of the growing shoots, now this way and now that
way, back and forth through the meshes, and they will
retain their places so on to the top, when they may be
cut off, or tied in a bunch above the trellis and left for a
shade, if the season is hot and dry. If the grower has
plenty of tall, shm undergrowth timber, he can cut long
poles and nail these to the stakes; but then he must do
some tying up for these. Attend to this fastening up
and pruning every week in growing weather. It will
take, at least, four prunings to “lay a crop by” in this
thing.

You say this is too much work. Well, a great deal
of it can be done in leisure times beforehand; and what
can not, we can lessen a great deal by arranging to do it
as conveniently as possible. Anyhow, a man must not
growl about work, if he gets good pay for it. Try a few
this way, and J venture you will soon see your way clear

108 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

to put more out so. Tomatoes will be earlier, smoother,
sweeter, cleaner, more easily harvested and marketed,
bring a better price, and nearly as many more ean be
planted on an acre than for down-eulture, and this saves
fertilizers. The grower has, also, far better control over
his crop, to work with it; to muleh, or to remove mulch- °

FRAME TRELLIS.

Ing, as the season is dry or wet; to apply spraying de-
coctions, or mixtures, against enemies; and to regulate
sun and air to the fruits. It is justly growing in favor
with advanced and careful market gardeners. It is an
advantage, too, if one wishes a succession of crops, as
early, medium, late—especially for the last named. Frost

TRELLISING TOMATOES. 109

will not cut them off so soon. Then, by removing the
late plants with a spade, when we reach the danger of
frosts, they will be in full bearing, and by rolling together
the twelve foot lengths of fencing, plants, roots and all,
they can, with care, be put on a sled, hauled to a shed,

HOOP TRELLIS.

unrolled and set up again to ripen after others are gone.
These will furnish fruits. quite fresh, till after holidays,
and bring good prices.

Tomatoes can be trellised on fences or on out-build-
ings, or on ornamental frame work of any kind as easily

110 LININGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

as can a grape vine, and in the same ways and forms.
Only one thing remember, you must have rich soil, and
it must be thoroughly worked before you put the tomato-
vine into it; then water, trim and work well and ‘you
will get elegant results. Some enrich two or three feet
square and two feet deep mixing in unleached ashes,
air-slaked lime and salt in the following proportions:
one bushel each of the ashes and lime, to ten pounds of
salt, and applying an inch and half of this mixture to
each plat, and work it well into a full spade’s depth of
the soil. This will keep vermin of the soil out and act
as a fertilizer. On this plat is laid around the plant four
stout barrel-hoops of different diameter, then three or
four stakes are driven into the earth so that the hoops
can be nailed on or tied on them—the smallest at the
bottom, the next largest a foot higher and so on to the
top (see cut) only put two more hoops on than cut
gives. Shingling-lath or poles can be nailed into squares
or triangles or other shapes, and be employed as above
with the hoops. The tomato is to grow up and spread
out in these—trimming, tying up and cultivating as
before described in the paragraphs immediately preced-
ing this one. This plan is for home use mainly or for
city-lot culture.

TRELLIS ON WIRE AND LATH COMBINED.

On the authority of the Ohio Experiment Station,
I give the following plan for trellising, as it recommends
itself to my judgment, it is both cheap and _ practicable :
row them three and a half to four feet apart; trans-

TOMATO CULTURE UNDER GLASS. pe

plant in the rows two feet apart; set two strong posts
at the ends of each row, and brace carefully; set other
stakes between as may be needed, say every two rods;
take two wires, about the size used in baling hay, and
stretch tightly between these end posts, three and a halt
feet from the ground; set now common plastering lath,
one to each plant, weaving the tops between the wires;
tie or tack up the plant to these, and trim as before ex-
plained. With care this is a neat trellis and staker
combined and will last for several years. It is also
cheap.

50. Tomato Culture under Glass.—I have vis-
ited thousands of hot houses in different parts of the
land and taken many notes of use from those who
manage them, which I am tempted to spread out upon
the pages of this book, but as my own personal exper!-
ences in this line are limited, I think it wiser for me,
and better for my readers to peruse an article prepared
by that well-known authority on this subject, Prof. E.
C. Green, of the Ohio Agricultural Experiment Station.
I give his article in full, because in addition to culture
under glass, he endorses in it many things already writ-
ten in the preceding pages:

ToMATOES AS A SPRING AND SUMMER GREEN HovseE Crop.

BY. E. C. GREEN.

The prices that can be obtained for this crop in large quantities
in most of the western cities are not sufficient to pay for forcing in
midwinter. We have found, however, that the houses can be used to
good advantage in growing a tomato crop after the season for let-
tuce and other winter crops is over, and when the space is not
needed for anything else. | Working with this object in view, we

13 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

use the house for other crops while the winter season lasts and keep
the tomato plants in as small a space as possible, which space is not
large enough to be seriously missed. As a general rule, vegetable
houses are empty after the middle of May and produce nothing
aiter the lasts crops of radishes, and lettuce are taken off. Vegeta-
ble houses could in this manner, with almost no cost for fuel and no
extra expense for filling benches with soil, be made to produce quite
an increase in income, the main work being the growing and train-
ing of the plants.

The demand for these house-grown tomatoes has been a con-
stant surprise, and at no time have we had enough to meet it. In
the midst of the strawberry and raspberry season tomatoes sold at
fifteen to twenty cents per quart, qr about double the price of
berries. Tomatoes were shipped in trom the south, but did not
seem to hurt the sale of those from the greenhouse, being inferior in
quality and selling at lower prices.

In order to get plants ready to set in the beds about the middle
of March, or as soon as the second crop of lettuce is cut, the seed
should be sown about the middle of December. Ii the seed is sown
much earher than this the plants will become too large, and are lia-
ble to injury by crowding. No special care is needed in germinating
the seed, but the young plants must have good care. Tomato plants
are like corn in that they need all the warmth and sunlight they can
get, and at all times they should be kept in the warm part of the
greenhouse and not allowed to get chilled. The soil should not be
allowed to get dry, but excessive watering should be avoided. They
will thrive with less water than many other classes of plants.

After the plants get their second or third leaves they should be
transplanted, and at least once more before they are large enough to
be put where they will stand while fruiting. When transplanted
the first time the plants are set 2x2 inches apart, and 4x4 the second
transplanting. The plants may be set in beds or in pots, but for
various reasons flats are preferred. These flats may be made of any
convenient size, but those in use here are 16x24 inches, and 23
inches deep. When the plants are set where they are to stand for
fruiting they are planted directly in the soil 18 or 20 inches apart
each way. Large pots and boxes have been tried, but without any
apparent advantage, although this custom is recommended for fore-
ing in winter. Although sub-irrigation did not produce a marked

TOMATO CULTURE UNDER GLASS. ya ts

effect upon tomatoes, the beds where this system was in operation
were watered with less trouble and more satisfactorily than those
where surface watering was practiced.

The last transplanting should be done sometime in March, for
after the middle of this month the benches cannot be used for lettuce
profitably, as the houses are liable to get too warm, and the plenti-
ful supply of hot-bed lettuce brings the price down; but when the
tomato plants are set out if good lettuce plants are set between them,
a fair crop of lettuce may be grown before the tomato plants peach
any considerable size. But after the lettuce is off the tomatoes
should have the entire ground, and should be given a good mulch of
fine manure, which will assist in holding the water that is apphed
to the bed. After the lettuce is off, or perhaps before, the tomato
plants should be trained to one or two stalks.

To train the plants some support must be given, and wire or
string is preferable to stakes. The top of the wire may be made
fast to the rafters, and the bottom anchored by means of sharp
wooden pins of hard wood driven into the bottom of the benches, or
by wire stretched across near the surface of the ground. The plants -
must be tied to these upright strings or wires frequently as they
. grow.

Pruning is another part of the work which is very important,
not only to increase the size and earliness of the fruit, but to get the
largest yield possible on the smallest space, and to keep the plants
in good shape. It is not the nature of the tomato plant to confine
itself to a single stalk, and when compelled to do so its efforts to
grow side branches are very persistent. Not only will sprouts come
out at the axil of each leaf, but the ends of the blossom stalks will
develop into branches and even the upper surface of the main vein
of the leaves will throw out sprouts. All of these must be taken
off, or there will be a tangled mass of vines if the plants are very

close together.

V ARIETIES.

“The varieties that do well out of doors are the
ones that will do well in the house. It is best to raise
the kinds that the market demands. The Acme’ and
Beauty are the best of the purple kinds that have been

114 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

tested, although no better than some of the red sorts.
Among the red kinds the Perfection and Paragon are
good. The Lorillard, which has been highly recom-
mended for forcing, has not done as well under our sys-
tem as some others. The early, rough varieties are not
desirable, as the pruning seems to make them more ir-
regular. We have given the Atlantic Prize, one of the
best of this class, a thorough trial, and have discarded
it because it does not sell well. The same remarks ap-
ply with even greater foree to Hundred Day, King of
Earhes and Salzer’s Earliest of All. The Dwarf Cham-
pion has some qualities to recommend it. The plants
can be set closer together and nearer to the glass than
other varieties. The first fruits that set are of fair
size, While on some other varieties they are small. It is
difficult to prune on account of the heavy leaves hiding
the sprouts, and it does not yield heavily. The Golden
Queen is one of the best of the yellow kinds, but there
is little call for a yellow tomato in this season of the
year. The Potato Leaf is the opposite of the Dwarf
Champion as regards ease in pruning, as it grows very
long and spindling. It does not yield heavily, but the
fruit is quite shapely and of fair size.

“Besides the kinds mentioned, we have tried
Tgnotum, Matchless, Michel’s New, Livingston’s Stone,
but they have no qualities that render them more de-
sirable than those first named. Bulletin 28, June, 1891,
Cornell University Experiment Station, by Prof. L. H.
Bailey, touches many points in tomato forcing not
treated of in this paper, and will be found useful to
those wishing to force tomatoes in mid-winter.”

TOMATO ENEMIES, DISEASES AND REMEDIES. 115

Prof. Green thus advises tomatoes as a spring and
summer crop under glass after lettuce and other pro-
duct. It ean then be forced with profit. He says:
“The essentials to be regarded are, (a) to have the
plants sufficiently advanced to set in the beds about the
middle of March, or as soon as the last crop of lettuce
is cleared off; (6) to prune off all the lower branches
and suckers; (c) to keep the plants tied up to sup-
ports.”

51. Tomato Enemies, Diseases and Remedies.
—It is encouraging to know, that as a field crop the
tomato has fewer and less formidable pests than any
other crop of so extensive culture.

But it has some, and every grower will get ac-
qainted with them (often to his sorrow), as the crop
passes through its various stages from sewing the seed
to the ripening of the fruit. We will mention some of
them under their common names, together with such
remedies as are good to use.

52. “Damping Off.’’—I name this first, because
you are likely, as a grower, to meet with it first. It is
a trouble that manifests itself while the plants are
young, by rotting them off near the surface of the
ground. You will. observe them to bend over, wither
away, and die. There is difference of opinion as to the
cause of it; but I favor the idea that cold, dark, damp
weather encourages it. If there is added to it an at-
mosphere that is foul to the tomato, such as one might

116 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

expect to find in a hot-bed unventilated or not aired out
daily, one would expect to find such a result. If this is
the cause, then the cure is better ventilation, more
judicious heating, and greater dryness.

53. Cut-Worms.—If you plant on sod-ground, or
on an old pasture, plowed up (which is, very good for a
tomato crop), then look out for cut-worms. Your
plants will not be long in the ground until you will see
that something has cut them off near the ground.
Sometimes these are very destructive, just as they are
on corn. I consider it an advantage to plow late in the
fall, and it will not hurt to plow again in the spring.
Tearing up the ground thus often, seems to destroy the
worms, and generally upsets their designs upon a to-
mato crop.

If it is remembered that the plants are set out in
the field quite a considerable distance apart; and that
this worm does not eat off roots only by accident, but
comes out atnighttoteed on the stalk, and that it burrows
into the ground again when his meal is over, leaving the
traces on the surface, where he went into it; then it
will not seem such an insuperable task to go and hunt
them out and kill them. They are rarely more than an
inch down in the soil. A tew hours’ work will kill
many. and save many a plant. Robins, yellow ham-
mers, meadow-larks, bluejays, mocking birds, and
quails, are very fond of these worms, and are generally
friends of the grower. I encourage all laws that de-
fend them, even if they do feed on our cherries be-

COLORADO POTATO BUGS. | 117
times. Sometimes I think they take these more for
the worm in them than for the cherry. Toads should
also be let alone in your fields, for they do no harm, but
keep fat on such pests as cut-worms. I know they are
not particularly handsome creatures, yet upon more inti-
mate acquaintance with the toad, we are reminded of
the old and true adage, “ Pretty is that pretty does.”
Besides he has ways—real cute ways—of disposing of
these worms; you only need to see him do it onee to
be ever after his friend. I know of nothing that can
be put on the plant to kill these worms which will not
also injure the plant. Slug-shot, stirred pretty liberally
and thoroughly into the ground around the plant tothe
depth of an inch, will kill the worms, and act to some
extent as a fertilizer for the plant.

54. Colorado Potato Bugs.—We all know this
bunchy beetle and how destructive his ravages are. We
all know how he “ does business on the first floor,’ em-
ploying his whole family, from the least even to the
‘oldest. Seems like they do all possible to push on the
work of destruction to its bitter end. But it does not
relish the tomato as it does the potato, and so is not
so bad on it, yet it does attack the tomato and do harm
sometimes. Take an old fruit-can and punch holes into
the bottom with a nail, or better with a round long
punch from the inside outward, fill with slug-shot or
other insecticide and dust the plants thoroughly while
the dew is on them. It will then stick to them, kill the
bugs, also cause the everlasting slugs to loosen their

118 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

grip and bite the dust in the agomies of death. They
‘an be treated in the same ways as are common when

on potatoes.

55. The Tobacco-Worm.—It is a large green
worm, about three and a half inches long, and three-
eighths of an inch in diameter. It has a long horn upon
his rear back, and when disturbed he jerks himself from
side to side, and twists himself about as though he
meant to do dangerous work with this horn, but it is
like the feints of a drone-bee to sting,—it don’t do any
hurt. When tobacco was a great crop in these parts it
was called the “ tobacco-worm,” but it is known mainly
as the “tomato-worm”’ now. It feeds on leaves and
green tomatoes mainly. During this last year—1892—
it was the most formidable enemy that ever attacked the
tomato in these regions. The first thing to do 1s to raise
a good sized bed of petunias near the tomato field, so as
to have them in full bloom by the time the tomato plants
are growing nicely in the field. If you are about these
petunia beds in the early evening, you will soon discover
almost as large as a humming bird—at-

a large miller
tracted by the sweet-scented flowers. He is in search
of honey. If you watch him closely as he hovers overa
flower, you will see him unroll a long proboscis, two to
three inches long and kept in a most beautiful coil under
his nose when not in use, thrust it into the flowers and
take up the sweets that are hid away inits depth. Now
while he eats thus is your opportunity, having a short,
broad paddle in hand slap one on the other with said

THE TOBACCO WORM. 119

miller between them, or hit her a clip with one paddle
hard enough to kill a rat, for this dusty and lusty insect
is the moth that lays the eggs which will hatch out in
due time into the tomato-worm. Therefore visit the
petunia beds each evening, and make the destruction as
thorough as possible, for each one you destroy keeps
many worms from appearing on the crops later. Two
careful, spry boys or girls will, with a small reward for
each dozen millers they kill, thin them out wondrously.
But if the worms do appear upon the plants, as effectual
a method for destroying them as any, is to put a thin,
tough switch in the hands of the abovesaid boys or girls
and direct them to give each one they see a quick, smart
stroke which will cut them in two and destroy them.
Reward them at so much a dozen and offer a slight
premium for the one who gets the greatest number
killed. Their sharp eyes, nimble feet and agile hands
will not fail to reach most of them with their switches
and sever their connection with the tomato business
forever.

Nature usually provides to keep matters on a
balance by raising one thing to feed on another. But
man in his ignorance and folly interferes with these
wise arrangements, and often destroys this balance.
This I always think of when I see different parts of
birds on ladies’ hats, knowing that with the over-killing
of birds will come the over-production of insects. Now,
in regard to the destruction of this worm the grower
has a formidable ally in a long-legged ground-colored
fly. It covers the worm with small, white eggs or nits

120 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

about one-sixteenth of an inch in length. This fly
stands high on her legs a few inches behind the worm
while it is eating, and enjoying its repast so well that it
is at peace with all the world, and suspects nothing;
then quick as the bot-fly, it darts forward and fastens
the egg on the flesh of the worm. Of course it makes
heroic efforts to stab the fly to death with its bold-look-
ing horn, while the fly stands back in place unharmed,
and apparently enjoying its safety, and success, and the
prospect of another deposit soon. As soon as the
worm forgets his sorrows, and, acting from the impulses
of a voracious appetite, begins to eat again, the alert
fly deposits another live egg upon its careass. And so
it keeps on until it sometimes literally covers the worm
with eggs, which soon suck the life out of the worm,
and it works tomatoes no more for a living. This is
more important than many suppose, viz., not to kill
these flys, nor destroy the worms which have the white
eggs on them, for I have good reasons to believe that
the flys usually deposits its eggs upon the female worms,
and rapidly destroys the souree of supply for lusty
millers, and one-horned hungry worms. It is never
mean assistance to get the help of the allies of nature
in the destruction of the pests which prey on our
growing crops. |

-

56. Tomato Blight.—Of this I have had no ex-
perience, but,I see it mentioned in scientific writings
about the tomato. I will give a quotation or two, giv-
ing their jremedies, for this may prove helpful to my
readers in some part of the country:

TOMATO BLIGHT. Eat

A Remepy For A TomarTo PEst.

Tinclose a tomato twig. You will heip many by publishing the cause and
remedy of its trouble, as it is next to impossible to raise tomatoes on this
account. The vines are attacked in all stages of growth until the fruit is full
grown. If a plant ripens its fruit without any sign of the trouble, it is not
attacked._[G. W. Wilgus, Takima county, W. T.

The plant sent to me is affected by a little fungus known to bot-
anists as Cladosporium fulvum. This little parasite grows in the
tissues of the tomato and destroys all the parts with which it comes
in contact. It is propogated by means of. minute bodies called
spores. As a means of preventing it, I would suggest that the
plants be sprayed, every two weeks during the growing season, with
a solution made by dissolving half an ounce of flour of sulphur to
the gallon of water. The first application of this solution should be
made before the disease appears, or when it is first noticed. The
effect of the treatment is to prevent the spores from infecting the
growing vines, and to do this care should be taken to reach all these
parts with the spray.—[Prof. B. T. Galloway, United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture.

Mr. J. W. Day, of Central, Miss., in his book, says:
«This disease is spreading very fast in the South where
tomatoes are often grown in the same locality. It begins
by the vine becoming wilted for a day or two, then the
bottom leaves turn black and slough off Sometimes
the leaves turn yellow the first two or three days.”

“The best preventive is to change patches every
year; as they are dead-sure to be affected with blight if
you do not let the land rest a year or two between
crops. There is some fungus in the vines, and rotting
tomatoes left lying about, that literally impregnates the
land with this disease, and blight will surely appear the
next year. It is worse on a dry year than a wet one.
It is often kept over on the stakes. These ought to be
fumigated, or disinfected. Take crude carbolic acid,

122 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

one part acid to twenty parts water, and sprinkle the
stakes or trellising to be used again well with this
mixture,” |

Another thing I would at least guess to be an
advantage, and that would be to gather up all affected
or decaying vines or tomatoes and burn them, and to
keep this work done up as closely as possible without
destroying good vines or fruit. If any fungus disease
appears in culture under glass, everything must be
cleared out, the whole place disinfected, new soil, new
plants and new supports found for them; and to do this
too, every fall. Again I would think judicious spray-
ing would do good. Hope our Experimental Stations
will tell us soon about it. It might be too, that fer-
tilizers could be found such as potash lime and salt mix-
ture which would destroy the fungus that causes this
bhght. By all means let us have some thorough exper-
iments on it by our Southern growers and Experiment
Station men.

57. Black Rot in Tomatoes.—This, as its nime
indicates, is a disease that appears first at the blossom
end of tomatoes, and is worst upon the earliest kinds.
Later in season it usually disappears. Coming on the
earliest it becomes the dread of Southern growers and
all who aim for “earlies.” The cause of it is not cer-
tainly known, and I sincerely hope some ambitious
experimenter will make himself justly renowned by
learning and telling us all about this trouble.

BLACK ROT IN TOMATOES. 123

One writer says: ‘ Suflicient critical attention has
not been given to this question, yet there appears to be
some truth in the idea that fresh stable manures tend to
induce this fungus disease, hence chemical manures are
to be preferred for this crop.”

We give also the experience of another as follows :

Wuat Causes Tomato Ror?
G. H, MAHAN, CHENANGO CO., N.Y.

It is variously claimed that this disastrous disease is the result of
either extremes in temperature, an exceedingly wet or dry season,
the using of plants grown from seed saved from a previously affected
crop, ete. Now, while I would not say that these causes may not
tend to this effect; yet I am inclined to the belief, based on exper-
ience, to attribute it more directly to the tact that the plants had
suffered a sudden check at some period of their growth.

Each spring I raise large quantities of garden and bedding
plants, Tomatoes being one of the principal ones of the former. After
being transplanted once or twice in the boxes or “ flats” in which
they are grown I usually set them in the open ground quite closely
together, removing them from there as wanted for selling. I usually
try and leave a plant every three or four feet in the row to mature
its fruit.

The foregoing is what was done the past season, and now the
point I am trying to make is this: plants were taken from this bed
and removed to three different locations in towns widely separate,
combining at least two very different soils, and in each instance
three-fourths of the fruit borne on these vines were affected with rot
at the blossom end, while the plants left remaining in the rows bore
exceedingly fine fruit, perfectly free from the affection. Now why
was it ?

Certainly the season was the same in each case and they were
all from the same seed. To my mind it was clearly the cause given
above ; that at the time they were taken from the bed and set out,
the weather being very dry, the plants sustained a check in their
‘growth which so weakened their vitality that they became an easy

124 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

prey to their most common ailment. Care should therefore be exer-
cised at all times in setting such plants to arrange to do so in a wet
or cloudy time and thereby remove the tendency to this fatal dis-
ease.

It is also said to be worse in a dry season. Now
the causes would sum up about this way: Stunting the
plants by either extremes of cold or heat, too great
change of temperature in transplanting, viz: from warm,
moist hot-beds to dry, cool frames, or to open field,
when cool and dry and without sufficient moisture at
the time, and possibly fungus growths produced by too
much fresh manures in the soil about the plants. The
cure tor this last would be to use chemical manures or
at least well-rotted manures with which has been mixed
hard-wood ashes, lime and salt.

The preventives*for the others is best possible pre-
paration of the soil by deep plowing, thorough pulver-
izing, judicious fertilizing and watching better the con-
ditions of heat and cold, and more care when transplant-
ing. [submit also the opinions of others on “ staking
up” as a means of preventing rot:

TOMATOES ON STAKES IN WET WEATHER.

I notice that N.S. complains of his tomatoes rotting badly on
the ground. I have not for many vears been troubled in that way, as
I have trained them toa single stake, and by pinching off three to
five of the lower shoots and afterwards tying the leader firmly to the
stake, the fruit is kept up and grown perfect. The stake needs to be
a good one, about six or seven feet long, firmly driven into the
ground. Of course, there is some work in this manner of growing
the crop, but it has the advantage of growing a fourth toa third more
plants, getting the weeds out of the way easily, and having more
and finer fruit.—G, N.S., Wellesley Hill, Mass., in the American Garden.

THE BORER. 5 es

ToMATOES TRAINED TO STAKES.
Last spring I concluded to give the Perfection Tomato a fair’
trial on stakes. I hada garden in the heart of the city 150x180 feet,
surrounded by a fence six feet high. On the sides facing east, west
and south I set on May 25th, three hundred plants that had been
well grown, and five-inch oak stakes six feet long by one-and-a-half
inches square were driven into the ground beside each plant.
The plant was allowed to grow but one stem, all side shoots being
pinched off until the top of the stake was reached. They require
the pinching and tying four times during the season and set an aver-
age of six clusters of tomatoes. Not one rotted and the flavor was
so superior that we had as ready sale for them for slicing as we
found for our strawberries, and at from ten to twenty cents per
quart when bushels were offered in the groceries at from twenty-five
to sixty cents per bushel. The first ripe tomatoes were picked July
21, and the last on Noy. 4th. For retail sales or family use I shall
never train in any other way.
Steubenville, O.
The advantages of staking, or trellissing, become
more and more apparent each year, and in each direction
we may think of it. If the Black Rot is caused by any

fungus growth, “staking up” will permit of spraying
to advantage against it. Always destroy all tomatoes

angl vines on which Rot appears.

58. ‘The Borer.’’—This is a short, stout worm
that buries itself into the body of the fruit. It is the
same as you see sometimes in sweet corn, inside the
husk, and imbedded into the very kernel itself. This
pest is worse in the South as it appears also among the
cotton. It is moving northward, however, and is already
showing symptoms of becoming an enemy to be feared
by tomato growers. Its early destruction should be
sought for by all diligently.

126 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

Friend Day suggests to kill the moth at mght by
open lights in the field, into which they fly, and are
killed; to spray with weak decoction of London purple,
or sprinkle it dry on them, but only a very little in a
place, as it burns the leaves of the tomatoes; and to
plant sweet corn along side of the tomato field, as they
preter it above a tomato diet. They will gather on it
and leave the tomatoes almost entirely alone. He also
suggests to gather all tomatoes which show signs of crack-
ing, or evidences that the worm is in them, because it will
bore into several tomatoes before it quits. These should
be, when gathered, mercilessly destroyed.

A few years experience will teach the grower much
about these pests and diseases. Let me suggest that you
watch constantly and carefully whatever endangers your
success. Remember, everything in this world has its
drawbacks; and every crop has its difficulties that beset
it. The man succeeds best who learns as he goes on to
lessen these more and more and to add to his business
little advantages which increase lis income. It only
takes a tew such leverages over your competitors to ttrn
the trade your way. Watch for them and work tor them.
It pays.

59. Harvesting, Marketing, Shipping and
Selling.—As these items of business occur together,
we will describe together. The tomato is perishable
fruit and must be disposed of within ten days after they
begin to ripen. To put it in round numbers, ripe fruit

may begin to appear in one hundred days after seed is

a aoe
y & on Pa

HARVESTING, .ETC., FOR SHIPPERS. 127

put into the ground. Many conditions of season, cul-
ture and soil enter in to vary this time for “earliest of
all” however, and you must remember that in building
up your expectation. I see some seedsmen advertise
kinds that will ripen in seventy-five days after sowing
the seed. While I do not discourage your trying a
packet, I feel much safer in directing you to be ready
to harvest in one hundred days, or even later. When-
ever it does come, you must be ready to do quick work.
Get reports and keep posted on the markets. Have all
boxes, crates, baskets and hands to use them, at com-
mand, for even a day’s time will lose, or make you
money as you use it.

60. Harvesting, etc., for Shippers.— Remember
this is atime when you will bein a hurry. As one
grower said to me, “It will be dollars to you often to
get them into market quickly.” Long before the crop
ripens then use up some leisure moments in securing
four good, stiff peck-baskets for each picker you are to
employ. Line them with felt -paper or similar soft
material and cover with muslin. This is to keep the
rough parts of the basket trom bruising the fruit as it is
picked into them. You cannot be too particular about
keeping the fruit whole. It is always money to you to
-get your fruit into market in the best possible condi-
tion, and this means the most scrupulous care from first
to last in handling it.

Have ready tour-quart and eight-quart boxes, also
three-peck and four-peck crates, such as are ordinarily

128 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

used tor shipping. Of course if you can invent some-
thing better and that will sell your fruit better, do not
hesitate to use it.

It will be necessary if you handle any great acre-
age, to have a packing shed which should be roomy,
light, dry and as handy as you can arrange every =
to do the work well and quickly.

For the first picking, each gatherer takes two of
the lined peck-baskets, goes into the field and picks
only those which are full-grown and all that show the
least tinge of red at the blossom ends.

Put only the most careful hands at this work. If
you must work some careless fellows, let them carry to
the packing house and return with other empty baskets
for the careful pickers. Direct these to push off the
stems and anything else that may be on them; to place
them—not throw or drop them, even for an inch—into
the baskets. There must be no bruises made in picking
or getting ready for market or there will be black places
when unpacked to sell, and this means either lower
price or none at all.

When the baskets are full, carry, not haul, to the
packing house; and this suggests that it may be advisa-
ble to locate it centrally in your field. In no case pour
out of the baskets, but pick out with the hands; wipe off
the dirt and sort into lots to suit your crop to the trade.
Mr. Day, of Mississippi, has had about as much experi-
ence as anyone else, and he advises to divide “into
seven grades—ripes, mediums and greens, and each of
these again into two grades, viz., into large ripes and

HARVESTING, ETC., FOR SHIPPERS. £29

small ripes; large, medium ripes and small, medium
ripes; large greens and small greens, while the culls
make the seventh grade and are not to be shipped at
all.’ As Mr. Day says of the above grading, they look
better, sell better, keep better and pack better.

If he who sorts them in the packing house arranges
a set of six flat trays—one tor each assortment—on some
support about him at a convenient height, that is, in
front of him, two trays, two on the right and two on the
left hand, then by placing the full basket from the
field between him and the middle tray so that the top of
it will be even with the top of the trays, he can clean
and sort into the trays rapidly and accurately, just as he
removes them from the basket. -He should be caretul
not to mix colors in same trays. When dry, they are
packed into the boxes and crates, hurried away to the
cars to fly by day and by night away to the Northern
markets.

When packed they should be marked on outside of
crates Just what they are, and in due time commission
men and other salesmen will learn your brand and seek
your stock. They can make more out of them and will
give more for them. That the reader may know how
commission men feel about this business, I will quote
from Mr. P. M. Kiely’s “ Southern Fruit and Vegetable
Shippers’ Guide and Manual:

“The importance of proper handling, packing, etc., is not
properly estimated. If ripe Tomatoes are going to be gathered,
be sure you put them in a separate box; but ripe stock should

not be sent forward unless you are only a few hours’ ride trom
market. Even then they are liable to arrive in bad order.

130 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

Generally speaking, the proper time to gather and pack is when
the tomato is full grown and beginning to color or partly colored,
depending upon the time of transit. The warm weather prevailing
at the time will ripen them fast enough. You should not lose sight
of the fact that a good many are wanted for re-shipment, and to he
fit for this trade, the best we have must not be fully ripe when they
reach us. When shipped by freight they must be gathered still
sooner, when full grown, before coloring sets in. Freight is not de-
sirable unless you have some assurance in regard to time. A good
many come trom the South by freight that are almost worthless on
arrival. Last year considerable came entirely too green; that is,
were picked and shipped before full grown, and most of such stock
arrived rotten. The regular peach box ( one-third bushel ) should
be used. .

The best packing usually appearing in this market ( St. Louis )
is that from Southern Illinois, where the most experienced growers
reside. Their packing is almost perfect. No knotty, stunted, over-
ripe, or otherwise imperfect stock should be put in the box under
any circumstances, The receipts from that section are always sought
by the shippers here in consequence. There is a very wide demand
for the Tomato; all classes being purchasers as soon as the price
becomes reasonable. The demand for it is steadily on the increase.

A great deal of money has been made off the Tomato, not only
in the South, but also North and East. The South is destined, how-
ever, to remain the most vrofitable region to cultivate them for com-
mercial purposes. The improved facilities and lower rates for
reaching Northern or distant markets, continue to afford substantial
encouragement. An acre of ground can be made to yield enormous-
ly in efficient hands; from one hundred to four hundred bushels,
according to circumstances, location, etc. Two hundred is, perhaps,
the limit in the South, and four hundred in the North.

As to varieties, will say that the ‘* Acme” should head the list
for this market, and for most other markets, too, as it is a universal
favorite. Livingston’s “ Beauty” and “ Perfection” close to it, and
any smooth, round, medium-sized variety might be added.”

Sometimes they are wrapped like oranges in paper.
I see almost none upon the northern markets in that
style, I merely mention it here in passing. It should be

HARVESTING FOR SHORT-DISTANCE SHIPPERS. fou

used for the first picking anyhow and also tor the most
fancy markets in the largest cities. It can be done to
advantage for this kind of a market.

61. Harvesting, etc., for Short-Distance Ship-
pers.—I refer to those not over twenty-four hours away
from northern cities; they might be called intermediate
shippers. They need not harvest and ship until the truit
is riper. They will reach the markets in good shape
dnd out-sell all the earliest varieties that come farther to
market. These come in between those grown in the
extreme south and the “first early” of the north, and
certainly meet a good demand, but to get this trade the
intermediate shipper must exercise great care in picking,
packing and getting them promptly on the market.
Pack tomatoes for this market at such a degree of ripe-
ness that they will reach the market ripe. Place them
tightly in the crate, so as to leave none loose, but do not
mash them. Remove the stems and wipe each tomato
with a cloth as they are put in. Make a special eftort
to have only the choicest fruit go to market. It may
not seem to pay you, but persevere until you get your
hame up in some market for always having choice
products, and then your success is assured. Not as
much is made of this trade as might be by growers.
Go to Southern Llinois and take some lessons.

62. Harvesting, etc., for the Home Market
Gardeners.—This is done, not for the fun of it, but for
the money there is init. This means, put up your stock

t32 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

or fruit in the best possible condition to be attractive
and desirable by those that use them. I am aware that
my readers are hable to get tired being told this thing
so often, but I am also aware that the home market-
gardener must not get tired doing this or he will sufter
loss. The matter of first importance to him is to get
ripe tomatoes a few days earlier, if possible, than most
other people. If you ean do this, you get the first run
on tomatoes and impress it on the minds of all classes of
customers, that you are “ well-up” in the business, are
a careful man and expect to serve them well. To en-
courage you in this, remember that most of the work
you do to get this result, will come before spring or
summer work commences, when, in all probability you
would not do much else anyhow, but it is just that much
ahead of the ordinary time of working, that only a few
will take the trouble then, to do what is necessary to have
ripe tomatoes for the home market during the last days
of June or the first of July, see paragraphs from 45 to
ol, for the culture necessary to attain this end.

You will need the same preparations for your crop
as are given in the last two paragraphs and such other
as We May hame as we go along. Gather these first-
ripe, home-grown tomatoes into felt-lined baskets and
handle them like eggs, with care. Carry them to the
house and sort as betore described, only into four grades,
viz. : ripes and nearly ripes, and these again into larger
and smaller. Always cull out those-which would hurt
sales. Never put an inferior article on the market, it
will pay you far better to throw it away entirely, although

HARVESTING FOR HOME MARKET GARDENERS. 133

any kinds of tomatoes are relished by hogs, cattle or
poultry and if given in small feeds will do them good.
The “earliest of all” should be put in berry-boxes and
sold at the same price as strawberries. Of course, these
will be mostly grown under glass; but raise a few this
way because it lets you in ahead of others and gets the
trade. The second “ earlies” are to be assorted into
one-quart and four-quart boxes or baskets. These
should always be rounded up well in the box, so as ‘to
look as full as possible, not to look like they would roll
off. They should all be “faced up” in the boxes from
the bottom to the top; that is, put the tomatoes in the
box with the blossom ends up, or all the stem ends down.
Some people say this is not honest, but these same per-
sons would curry a horse well if they were taking it off
for sale. It seems to me perfectly legitimate to make
our fruit as inviting as possible. Every young lady acts
on this principle, and rightly too, for you and I, my dear
friend, would not want to make a wife of a slouchy
girl. But see to it that you do not put the nicest ones
on top and the poorest in the bottom. That is a mis-
representation and is not honest, nor will it pay. While
it is right to make the most and best of what we have,
it is not right to sell inferior for good and people will
not be duped by us long in this or any other way. Sell -
in the one-quart boxes as long as you possibly can, tor
there are thirty-two of them in a bushel, and at a few
cents a quart you are getting a better price per bushel,
than if you sold at bushel rates. You can do this too,
because many only want enough at this time of year for

154 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

slicing for one day’s use, and do not mind’a nickle or
even a dime for a box of choice ones. Have some real
ripe and some only halt-ripe from which to fill up the
box. It pays to suit the customer’s taste. Get them to
market as early as possible; but do not try to com-
pete with the fruit away down South, as that would be
useless. But my early tomatoes are picked fruit, and
have avery difterent appearance and flavor from that of
the South and I usually get very fair prices. As they
get cheaper you can put in an extra one now and then,
as itmay be appreciated, but you must not spoil your
customers by being too’ free with donations.

Never empty a box or basket into a customer's
market-basket ; always lift them out with the hands and
“face them up” as they were in your own basket, then
they will look as they are and also appear to be what
he bought of you. It takes a little time, but if you say
something a little cheery while you do it you will
satisfy your customer and that goes a good ways in
bringing him back to you again. Whether you sell
from the wagon, or on the street from the table, aim to
appear at regular times and as near in a given place as
possible. The customers will look for you and wait till
youcome. ‘This is the time to take orders for canning.
There will hikely be some very nice cracked ones among
your fruit, especially during some seasons. Never put
these in with the rest, but put in a lot by themselves
and “lump them off’ to some one who wishes bulk
rather than quality and with a little reduction on regu-
lar prices, you can turn them off and get all they are

HARVESTING FOR HOME MARKET GARDENERS. 135

worth. After this, as you approach to the bulk of the
crop, gather into boxes or crates, which you ought to
make yourself, so that they will fit your wagon and not |
jostle about in it, for this spoils tomatoes for canning.
Also they should hold exactly, when rounding full, a
peck, a half bushel and a bushel. Take these directly
to the field and as you pick, rub off stems and dirt, sort
into the crates and as fast as full, place in the wagon.
This saves handling, but does all necessary at once, and
if picked and packed thus, when the weather is dry or
nearly so, they will get to market in excellent shape.
You can’t gather so fast this way, but you can get all
done that ought to be done this way as fast as any and
handle them but once. Of course, do not forget to
“face up” as already described. Observe the same rule
about not turning them in the baskets or upon a cus-
tomer’s table. Talk nicely all the while, “ face them
up” ina nice neat pile upon the kitchen table and you
will please this time and sell more readily at another
time. Don’t forget that a measure only level full will
not sell one-half as quickly as one rounding full.

The bulk of the crop is sold for canning, and if .
you are fixed to handle a large quantity there is a
handsome profit in it at thirty-five cents a bushel.
When the height comes I go to the canning houses and
get a fair price, carrying them the very best quality and
all uniform in appearance throughout. I have found
that in whatever you are dealing and no matter with
whom, if your fruit or vegetables are just as fair and
large at the bottom and middle of the package as at

136 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

the top, the price will be better than in any other way.
Persons who are accustomed to buying know at once
how to rate their customers. Five cents or ten cents
on a bushel makes a large sum in the aggregate, and
will pay the buyer as well as the seller, if he knows at
a glance what he is getting and can depend upon it.
Start a wagon out over your city, and supply the poor
with cheap, wholesome tomatoes, and still get a fair
price for it at this time.

As for late ones it pays well to aim to meet this
demand. Some people never get anything done when
it ought to be done, and’so they will not get their to-
matoes canned till the bulk of crop is harvested and
sold; if now one has nice fruit to sell then he can do
so at a good figure. It will pay to risk hitting this
market. It is not a question of ‘‘can I sell them ?” but
“can I have them?’ See paragraph 49 for methods of
culture, so as to get them with reasonable certainty and
satety.

One should keep favorably acquainted with com-
mission men and the markets in difterent places, and
often shipments can be made to advantage. On the
advantage of late crops and sales I quote from the
‘‘Maryland Farmer,’

> as follows:

“T raise a bed of tomato plants in the open ground for late
planting. They are pretty fair sized plants about the first of June,
and a quarter of acre in the field is reserved for them. They come
forward generally fully as well in proportion as the early plants. I
have one pretty good picking from them of ripe fruit; but as frost
approaches they are usually loaded with good-sized green tomatoes.
I have sold some of these green tomatoes, but I do not give that as
much attention as I might, for I have something better in view.

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 137

“T have a good warm cellar of large dimensions, and across this
I stretch poles, just as for hanging tobacco, and I pull up the tomato
vines by the roots, loaded as they are with green fruit, and hang
them, tobacco fashion, on these poles in the cellar.

“There they gradually ripen from the beginning of frost to the
Christmas holidays, and when I go to town with my little stock and
get my 25c or 30¢ or 85c a quarter of a peck for them, it pays.

“Tf Thad a big cellar, properly prepared for the work, I could
coin more money from an acre of late tomatoes, with less actual
expenditure of labor, than from any other crop that is grown in the
vegetable line.

‘““] give my brother farmers this item, trusting it will do them as
much good as it has done me. I remember the first time I carried
in a few bushels of these tomatoes, expecting a little spare change
from them, and came back with $19.45 for them, I felt a great deal
astonished at what I had done. But it has got to be a common
thing now and I give it to you.”

63. The Uses of the Tomato.—I claim to be a
‘ladies’ man” in the best uses of that phrase; and I
want to put something in my book forthem. The uses
of the tomato enters now into the daily food of nearly
every family, in the city or in the country. It is both a
vegetable and a fruit; and has uses co-extensive with all
vegetables and all fruits. I know of no other one gar-
den or field crop that can be put to so many varied uses
as the tomato, and still be so palatable to most appetites.

It may be canned for home use, or general markets,
as Other fruits. It makes soups by itself, or with any-
thing else used in this way. It makes excellent sauces,
salads, catsups; or pickles, sweet, spiced, and sour, green,
ripe, or in mangoes. They can be sliced, baked, escal-
loped, dried, fried, made into figs, stewed, or into any-

thing else desired ; and it is a wholesome diet for sick or

138 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

well; old or young; rich or poor; leisurely or laboring ;
wise or otherwise; saint or sinner.

I here append some recipes, not for reading as much
as for reference and to show the various and principal
uses of the tomato. I do this with becoming modesty ;
for a man feels about as awkward telling the ladies how
to cook, as a woman would feel were she to attempt to
plow a straight furrow across a forty-rod field. I ought
to say, too, that I have gleaned these recipes from all
kinds of sources, but have submitted them to the judg-
meut of competent cooks who declare them valuable and
reliable. Use, if possible, only fresh, nice tomatoes, and
you will be apt to get them if you secure as soon as
they get cheap enough for you to invest in the quantity
you wish to use. The last of the season are never so
good as the first; and especially after frosts have hurt
the vines.

Tomatoes for the Sick.—*«The tomato is the best of
all vegetables as an article of diet in sickness, especially
in bilious diseases. I have heard that they contain calo-
mel, or the properties of it, and was, therefore a medicine
as well as an article of diet. When one is first beginning
to recover from a bilious attack they can eat a tomato
with a little salt on it when they can take nothing else,
and if you don’t like tomatoes try to learn to eat them,
for it is a most useful taste to cultivate. I think it was
the hardest task I ever set myself to learn to like them,
but I was determined I would learn, and I did, and most
sincerely thankful have I been since, particularly when
recovering trom an attack of chills and fever.”

TKE USES OF THE TOMATO. 139

Mother's Sliced Tomatoes.—“ Prepare half an ‘hour
before dinner, scald a few at a time in boiling water,
peel, shee, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, set away
in a cool place, or lay a piece of ice upon them. Serve

as a relish for dinner in their own liquor. Those who
desire may add vinegar and sugar.”

Sliced Tomatoes.—“Scald ripe tomatoes; let them
stand in cold water fifteen minutes. Then take off the
skin and slice in a dish garnished with sweet peppers.”

It adds to the above to employ tomatoes of difter-
ant colors and serve in alternate layers, also choose those
of about the same size, or otherwise put the largest lay-
ers in the bottom of the dish.

Sliced tomatoes may be served with Mayonnaise
salad-dressing which is made as follows: “Into the
yolk of one raw egg stir all the olive oil it will hold; if
dropped in very slowly, half a pint of oil can be used:
season with cayenne pepper, salt and mustard.”

Raw Tomatoes.—Peel and slice with a sharp knife.
(Tomatoes should always be cut just before using.) Lay
in salad bowl and season with dressing, made in follow-
ing proportions: Beat together four table-spoons vin-
egar, one teaspoon each of salt and sugar, half as much
mustard, and when these are well mixed, add gradually
two tablespoons of best salad oil.

Stewed Tomatoes. —“Secald by pouring boihng
water over them, peel, slice and cut out all detective
parts; place a lump of butter in a hot skillet, put in
tomatoes, season with salt and pepper. Keep up a brisk
fire and cook quick as possible, stirring with a spoon or

140 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

chopping up with a knife (in the latter case wipe the
knife as often as used or it will blacken the tomatoes.)
Cook half an hour. Serve at once in a deep dish lined
with toast. When iron is used, tomatoes must cook
rapidly and have constant attention. If prepared in tin
or porcelain, they do not require the same care.”—Mrs.
JUDGE COLE.

Fried Tomatoes—No.1. “Slice tomatoes quite thick;
pepper and salt them; roll in flour; and fry in equal
parts of butter and lard. Put them in a dish to be served
and keep hot. A little flour and butter mixed; stir into
the skillet with a cup of milk; boil until well thickened;
pour over the tomatoes.”

No, 2. “Same as above, only after rolling the layers
in flour dip them into beaten egg, then fry, ete. These
may be served with or without the flour, butter and
milk dresssing named in No. 1.”

Tomato Toast.
toes through the colander; place in a porcelain stew-

“Run a quart of stewed ripe toma-

pan; season with butter, pepper, salt and sugar to taste;
eut thin slices of bread, brown on both sides, butter and
lay on a platter, and just as the bell rings for tea add a
pint of good sweet cream to the stewed tomatoes, and
pour over the toast.”—Mrs. 8. Watson, Upper Sandusky.

Tomato Custard, —‘“This is recommended in the
Modern Cook Book as a good diet for invalids. Make
a custard of four eggs, one quart of milk and one cup-
ful of sugar; add one pint of stewed tomatoes, and bake
quickly in small cups.”

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 141

No. 1. “Put in a buttered
baking dish a layer of bread or cracker crumbs, seasoned

Escalloped Tomatoes.

with bits of butter, then a layer of sliced tomatoes sea-
soned with pepper, salt and sugar, if desired, then a
layer of crumbs, and so on till the dish is full, finishing
with the crumbs. Bake from three-quarters of an hour
to an hour. Onions, prepared by soaking over night in
hot water, dried well, and sliced in nearly half inch
slices, and browned on both sides in a frying-pan with
butter, may be added, a layer on each layer of tomatoes.”

No. 2. “Put alternate layers of sliced tomatoes and
bread crumbs into a bread-pan; season with sliced onion,
butter, pepper and salt; bake for one hour.”

Baked Tomatoes—No. 1. “Cut a thin slice from
blossom side of twelve solid, smooth, ripe tomatoes;
with teaspoon remove pulp without breaking shell; take
a smnall, solid head of cabbage and one onion; chop fine;
add bread crumbs rubbed fine and pulp of tomatoes;
season with pepper, salt and sugar; add a teacup of good
sweet cream; mix well together; fill tomatoes, put the
slice back in its place, lay the stem-end down in a but-
tered baking dish with just enough water (some cook
without water), with a small lump of butter on each, to
keep from burning, and bake half an hour, or until
tnoroughly done; place a bit of butter on each, and
serve in baking dish. They make a handsome dish for
the dinner table.’—Mrs. 8S. Watsoyx, Upper Sandusky.

No. 2. “Filla deep pan with ripe tomatoes (as many
as will lie on the bottom), after first rounding a hole in
the center of each and filling it up with bread crumbs

142 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

or crushed crackers, and seasoned with butter, salt, pep-
per and sugar; Pour a teaspoonful of water in the pan,
to prevent from burning. Bake brown, and send to the
table hot.”

Broiled Tomatoes.—*Take smooth, flat tomatoes:
wipe, and set on gridiron, with stem-end down, over
live coals. When this is brown, turn them over and let
eook until quite hot through; place them on a hot dish;
dress, when eaten, with butter, pepper and salt.”

Tomato Soups.—No. 1. “Take a quart of canned
tomatoes, add a pint of hot water, and when all boils
add two spoontuls of four, mixed smooth with a little
cold water. Stir until it boils again, add an onion
chopped fine, then let it cook for twenty minutes, stir-
ring oceasionally. Strain through a sieve, add a gener-
ous piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a table-
spoontul of sugar.”

No. 2. “One quart of tomatoes, one quart of milk,
one quart of water. Boil the water and tomatoes to-
gether about twenty minutes, and then add the milk;
then one teaspoontul of soda. Let it just boilup. Sea-
son as you do oyster soup, with butter, pepper and salt;
add crackers if desired.”—Mrs. Stmon GERHART.

No.3. “Meatless Tomato Soup: One quart tomatoes,
one quart water; stew till soft; add teaspoon soda; allow
to effervesce, and add one quart boiling milk; salt, pep-
per and butter to taste, with a little rolled cracker; boil
a few minutes, and serve hot.”—Mrs. D. C. ConKEy,
Minneapolis, Minn.

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 143

No. 4. “Skim and strain one gallon of stock made
from nice fresh beet; take three quarts tomatoes, remove
skin, and cut out hard center” [none is in my varieties];
“put through a fine sieve, and add to the stock; make a
paste of butter and flour, and, when the stock begins to
boil, stir in half a teacup, taking care not to have it
lumpy; boil twenty minutes, seasoning with pepper and
salt to suit taste. Two quarts canned tomatoes will an-
swer.’—Mrs. Cou. Rerp, Delaware, Ohio.

No.5. * Macearoni with Tomatoes: Take three pints
beef soup, clear, and put one pound macearoni in it; boil
fifteen minutes, with a httle salt, then take up the mac-
carom, which should have absorbed nearly all the liquid,
and put it ona flat plate and sprinkle grated cheese over
it thickly, and pour over all plentifully a sauce made of
tomatoes, well boiled, strained, and seasoned with salt
and pepper.”

Tomato Pie-—No. 1. Southern Tomato Pie—* For
one pie, peel and slice green tomatoes; add four table-
spoons vinegar, one of butter, three of sugar; flavor
with nutmeg or cinnamon; bake with two crusts slowly.
This tastes very much like green apple pie.’”—Mrs.
CrsBa Hutt.

No. 2. Mutton Pie and Tomatoes—*Spread the
bottom of a baking dish with bread crumbs, and fill with
alternate layers of cold roast mutton, cut in thin slices,
and tomatoes peeled and sliced; season each layer with
pepper, salt and*butter. The last layer should be toma-
toes spread with bread crumbs. Bake three-quarters of
an hour, and serve immediately.”

144 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

No. 3. Beef Pie and Tomatoes—“Seald the toma-
toes; skin and quarter them, and sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Bury the meat in a stew-pan with tomatoes;
add bits of butter rolled in flour, a little sugar, and an
onion minced fine; let cook until the meat is done and
the tomatoes dissolved into a pulp.”

Ham with Tomato— «When you are tired of cold,
boiled ham, try cooking it this way: Cut the ham in
rather thick slices; put in your stew-pan one can of to-
matoes which have been run through a colander; add a
httle chopped onion and celery; stew half an hour; rub
a tablespoonful of flour into one of butter; add this to
your sauce; season to taste; let it boil up, then put in
the ham and cook five minutes.”

Tomato Preserves—No. 1. Preserved Tomatoes—
“Take one lemon and one pound of hight brown sugar,
to one pound of tomatoes. Grate the thin yellow rind
of the lemon, then pare off the thick white part which
is not to be used, shee it thinly, and remove all the seeds.
Seald, and peel the tomatoes. Put water enough with
the sugar to dissolve it, and when it is boiling remove
the scum and add the tomatoes. Cook slowly for two
hours.”

No. 2. Green Tomato Preserve—*To one pound of
fruit use three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar.
Allow one sliced lemon to two pounds of fruit, first

tasting the white of the lemon to be sure it is not bitter.
1 bitter, use the yellow rind, grated, or shaved thin,
and the juice. Put the sugar on with just water enough
to melt it, add the tomato and lemon, and cook gently

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 145

until the tomato is tender and transparent. Cut the to-
matos around in halves, and then quarter the halves.
This shape is preferable to slices. This will keep with-
out sealing, but it is better to put it in small jars, as it
is so rich that only a little is wanted at a time.”

No. 3. “Seald and peel carefully small, perfectly
formed tomatoes, not too ripe (Yellow Pear or Plum-
shaped and Gold Ball are the best), prick with a needle
to prevent bursting, add an equal amount of sugar by
weight, let he over mght, then pour off all juice into a
preserving kettle and boil until it is a thick syrup, clari-
fying with white of an egg, add tomatoes and boil care-
fully until they look transparent. A piece or two of
root ginger or one lemon sliced thin to a pound of fruit
and cooked with the fruit may be added.”

No. 4. Tomato Figs.—“ Allow half a pound of cof-
fee-sugar to every pound of tomatoes. The yellow
plum tomatoes, or the very small and perfectly smooth
red ones are preferred for this method of preserving.
Put the sugar on the stove with just water enough to
melt it. As soon as it boils, put the tomatoes in whole
with the skins on. Draw the kettle back where they
will simmer gently. Cook until transparent, about two
hours. Skim them out carefully, and drain off all the
syrup. Spread them on platters to dry, in the sun, if
possible. Sprinkle a little sugar over them while dry-
ing, and the next day turn them, and sprinkle again
with sugar. Do so for two or three days. When suth-
ciently dry, pack in boxes. Seven pounds of tomatoes
will make two quarts of figs.”

146 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

No. 5. “Tomato Jam.—Take one-half pound of
sugar to one pound of tomatoes, put together in a stone
jar and let stand twenty-four hours, then take off the
Juice and strain it; put it into a porcelain kettle, bring
to a boil and skim; then put in the tomatoes with a
handful of stick cinnamon tied in a cloth; stir all the
time. About ten minutes before removing from the
fire, take out the cinnamon and add one teacuptul of
good vinegar to one gallon of jam. Boil until the jelly
will not separate.”

No. 6. Tomato Butter—Among all the “butters”
so famous on the old-fashoned farm tables, we fancy
tomato butter scarcely found a place. A Pennsylvania
housewife recommends it. For a trial mess, “take two
and a half quarts of tomatoes and three quarts of apples.
Stew separately until smooth, mix well, and add three
pounds of sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves and twice
as much cinnamon. Boil until thick enough to suit the
taste.”

Canned Tomatoes.—*These are merely stewed toma-
toes sealed in cans while hot. Some points to remem-
ber are that freshness is necessary ; that overripeness 1s
a fatal defect, and that the later tomatoes are never so
good as those which ripen earlier.”

A bushel of our kinds will put up fourteen to eigh-
teen cans, while our mothers used to get only eight to
ten cans from a bushel of the best sorts, and usually
about half of these would spoil in consequence of a
green core. It makes a great difference whether or
not you have kinds to can that are smooth, solid and
which ripen early. See paragraph 28 for kinds.

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 147

No. 1. “Tomatoes should be canned in August,
when the fruit is in the best condition. It is highly
important that the fruit should be perfectly sound and
not too ripe, for a single spot of decay will contain a
sufficient number of fterment-germs to spoil the entire
mass.

«“ These are the most reliable methods:

“Have a large kettle of rapidly-boiling water on
the stove. Wipe the tomatoes, fill a wire basket with
them and plunge it into the boiling water until the
skins begin to crack. Then piunge into cold water, and
remove the skins and the hard part under the stem.

“Mash thoroughly and let them boil quickly until
perfectly soft, but not enough to evaporate all the liquid.
Then season as for the table. To every quart, allow one
teaspoonful of salt, one salt-spoontul of pepper and half
a cup of sugar. Cook five minutes longer, then fill the
jars almost full. Have ready some butter, melted,
strained and boiling hot, in the the proportion of one
tablespoonful to every jar. Fill to the brim with the
hot butter and seal at once. Olive oil may be used
instead of butter. Wrap the jars in paper and keep in
a dark place. Examine the jars after two weeks, and if
any of them show signs of ferment, turn out the con-
tents and treat as directed in making catsup, which
seé.””

No. 2. “ Prepare as in the first recipe, but season
only with salt. Let them boil down until quite thick,
then fill the jars nearly full, add boiling water to the
brim and seal at once. Be careful that no seeds or pulp

148 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

run over the edge between the glass and the rubber.
Keep the jars wrapped in paper, in a cool place. Use
these only for soups and sauces.”

No. 3. “ The tomatoes must be entirely fresh and
not over ripe; pour over them boiling water, let stand a
few minutes, drain oft, remove the skins, slice crosswise
into a stone jar, cutting out all the hard or defective
portions. (If my varieties are used, no need of this.)
Cook tor a few minutes in their own juice, skimming
off the skum which rises and stirring with a wooden
spoon or paddle; have the cans on the hearth filled with
hot water, empty and fill with hot tomatoes, wipe mois-
ture from top with soft cloth, put on and secure covers.

“Tf tin cans are used, press down covers and pour
hot sealing wax in grooves. If put up in glass, put
away ina dark place. Either tin, glass or stone cans
may be used and sealed with putty instead of sealing
wax, it being more convenient.”

No. 4. Canned Corn and Tomatoes.— Seald peel
and slice tomatoes (not too ripe) in the proportion of
one-third corn to two-thirds tomatoes, put on in por-
celain kettle, let boil fifteen minutes and can immedi-
ately in glass or tin. (If glass, keep in the dark.)
Some take equal parts of corn and tomatoes, preparing
same as above, others after cutting corn from the cob,

cook it twenty minutes, adding a little water and stir-_

ring often; then prepare the tomatoes as above, cook-
ing in a separate kettle five minutes and then adding
them to the corn in the proportion of one-third corn to
two-thirds tomatoes, mixing well until they boil up
once and then can immediately.—Mrs. D. Buxton..

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 149

Tomato Pickles —No.1. Ripe Tomato Cold Pickle—
“Sixteen medium-sized ripe tomatoes, four small green
peppers, four small onions, all chopped fine. Then add
one cup of vinegar, one cup of sugar, and half a cup of
salt. Mix thoroughly, and put up cold.”

No. 2. Uncooked Tomato Pickle—Cut one peck -
of green tomatoes in quarter-inch slices, sprinkle over
them one cup of salt, and let them stand twenty-four
hours. Then drain very dry. Slice twelve small onions
thin. Mix one small bottle of prepared mustard, two
tablespoonfuls of ground cloves, one tablespoonful of
ground pepper, and one of allspice. Then into the jar
in which the pickle is to be kept, put alternate layers of
tomato, spice and onions, until all is packed. Cover
with cold vinegar, and let them stand until the tomato
looks quite clear, when they are ready for use.”

\ / No. 3. Green Tomato Pickle—* Chop enough green
tomatoes to make a gallon, sprinkle over them half a cup
of salt, and the next morning drain and squeeze dry.
Add one teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves, whole
mustard seed and celery seed. Pour on vinegar enongh
to cover, and boil twenty minutes.”

No. 4. Whole Tomatoes for Winter Use—*“Fill a
large stone jar with ripe and perfectly sound, whole
tomatoes, adding a few cloves and a sprinkling of sugar
between each layer. Cover well with one-half cold vin-
egar and one-half water. Place a piece of thick flannel
over the jar, letting it fall well down into the vinegar,
then tie down with a cover of brown paper. These will
keep all winter, and are not barmed even if the flanne
collects mould.”

150 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

No. 5. Ripe Tomato Pickles—*Pare ripe, sound
tomatoes (do not scald); put ina jar. Seald spices (tied
in a bag) in vinegar, and pour while hot over them.
This recipe is best for persons who prefer raw tomatoes.” |

No. 6. Ripe Tomato Pickle—* Pare and weigh ripe
tomatoes, and put into jars and just cover with vinegar.
After standing three days pour oft the vinegar and add
five pounds coftee sugar to every seven pounds of fruit.
Spice to taste, and pour over tomatoes, and cook slowly
all day on back of stove. Use cinnamon, mace and a
little cloves, or not any, as preferred.”

No. 7. French Tomato Pickles—“*One peck green
tomatoes sliced, six large onions sliced; mix these and
throw over them one teacup of salt, and let them stand
overnight. Next day drain thoroughly, and boil in one
quart of vinegar, mixed with two quarts of water, for
fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take four quarts vine-
gar, two pounds brown sugar, half pound white mustard
seed, two tablespoons ground allspice, and the same of
cinnamon, cloves, ginger and ground mustard. Throw
all together and boil fifteen minutes.”—Mrs. PRESIDENT
R. B. Hayes.

No. 8. Green Tomato Pickle
green tomato and chop fine, add four pounds brown
sugar and boil three hours; add a quart vinegar, a
teaspoonful each of mace, cinnamon and cloves and
boil about fifteen minutes, let cool and put into jars or
other vessels. Try this recipe once, and you will try it
again.”—Mrs. W. A. Crorret, New York City.

“Take eight pounds

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. 151

No. 9. Piccalilu—* One peck of green tomatoes
and one head of cabbage chopped fine; mix with them
one large cup of salt, put all ito a coarse cheese-cloth
bag, and let it hang and drain over night. Then chop
six large onions and four green peppers, mix them with
the tomatoes and cabbage, pour over them enough hot,
weak vinegar to cover and drain again. The next
morning scald the same amount of good sharp vinegar,
and pour over them, add two tablespoonfuls of whole
mustard-seed, and when cold it is ready to use.”

No. 10. Piccalilh—One peck green tomatoes,
sliced; one-half peck onions, sliced; one cauliflower,
one peck small cucumbers; leave in salt and water
twenty-four hours; then put in kettle with handful
scraped horse-radish, one ounce tumeric, one ounce
cloves (whole), one-fourth pound pepper (whole), one
ounce cassia buds or cinnamon, one pound white mus-
tard seed, one pound English mustard. Place in kettle
in layers, and cover with vinegar. Boil fifteen minutes,
constantly stirring.”

No. 11. Sweet or Spiced Tomato Pickles—“ Four
quarts cider vinegar, five pounds sugar, one-fourth
pound cinnamon, two ounces cloves to seven pounds of
fruit.” (Think about half-ripe tomatoes will give best
satisfaction here). ‘“Scald the vinegar and pour over
the fruit. Pour off and seald vinegar twice more at
intervals of three days, and then cover all close. <A
less expensive way: Take four pounds sugar to eight
of fruit, two ounces cinnamon, one ounce cloves, one
teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful of allspice.”

LS? LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

Tomato Catsups.—No. 1. “ One peck of ripe toma-
toes, four large onious sliced, three-fourths of a cup of
salt, three tablespoontuls of black pepper, one table-
spoonful of red pepper, one tablespoonful of allspice,
half a tablespoonful of cloves. Mix all together, and
stew them until very soft, about two hours. Just be-
fore taking from the fire, add one quart of vinegar, and
rub through a colander. Put on to boil again, then
seal at once.” .

No. 2. “Stew the tomatoes until soft, then to
every gallon of stewed tomatoes add one-fourth of a
pound of salt, one-fourth of an ounce each, of red pep-
per, pumento, and garlic, one-half of an ounce of ginger-
root and of cloves. Stew all together until reduced
enough to pour easily, then strain into bottles, and seal
with wax.”

No. 3. Cold Catsup—* Peel and chop fine half a
peck of ripe, sound tomatoes. Grate two. roots of
horse-radish, and chop fine one cup of onions. Mix all
well, and add one cup of salt. Bruise half a cup each,
of black and white mustard seed in a mortar, and mix
with them two teaspoontuls of black and one of red
pepper, one tablespoontul each, of mace and cinnamon,
and two teaspoonfuls of cloves, one cup of sugar, and
one quart of vinegar. Mix all these ingredients very
thoroughly, and put it into jars.

No. 4. Tomato Catsup—* One peck of ripe toma-
toes, cut up, boil tender and sift through wire sieve;
add one large tablespoonful ground cloves, one large
tablespoonful allspice, one large tablespoonful cinnamon,

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. nS

one teaspoontul cayenne pepper, one-fourth pound salt,
one-fourth pound mustard, one pint vinegar. Boil
gently three hours. Bottle and seal while warm.”

No. 5. Tomato Catsup—“One gallon tomatoes
(strained), 6 tablespoonfuls salt, three tablespoonfuls
black pepper, one tablespoonful cloves, two tablespoon-
fuls cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls allspice, one and one-
half pint vinegar ; boil down one-half. One peck toma-
toes will make one gallon strained.”

No. 6. Tomato Soy—* One-half peck tomatoes,
one large pepper cut fine, one large onion cut in slices,
one tablespoontul each of ground allspice, black pepper
and celery seed, one-fourth cup of salt, one-half pint of
vinegar. Boil all together slowly one hour; cool, and
bottle for use.”

No. 7. Green Tomato Catsup.—‘ One peck green
tomatoes, one dozen large onions, one-half pint salt;
slice tomatoes and onions. To layer of these add layer
of salt; let stand twenty-four hours, then drain. Add
one-fourth pound mustard seed, three desertspoons
sweet oil, one ounce allspice, one ounce cloves, one
ounce ground mustard, one ounce ground ginger, two
tablespoontuls black pepper, two teaspoonfuls celery
seed, one-fourth pound brown sugar. Put all in pre-
serving pan, cover with vinegar and boil two hours.

No. 8. “ Half bushel tomatoes, four ounces salt,
three ounces green peppers, one ounce cinnamon, one-
half ounce ground cloves, one drachm cayenne pepper,
one gallon vinegar. Slice the tomatoes and stew in
their own liquor until soft, and rub through a sieve fine

154 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

enough to retain seeds and boil the pulp down to the
consistency of apple butter (very thick), stirring steadily
all the time to prevent burning; then add the vinegar
and a small teacup of sugar and the spices, boil up
twice, remove from the stove and let cool to bottle.
Those who lke onions, may add a half dozen medium
sized ones peeled and sliced about fifteen minutes before
the vinegar and spices are put in.’—Mrs. M. M. Mun-
SELL, Delaware, O.

No. 9. Take one bushel fine, ripe tomatoes, wipe
them off nicely and put in porcelain kettle. Place over
fire and pour over them’about three pints water, throw
into it two large handfuls of peach leaves with ten or
twelve onions, or shallots cut fine; boil till tomatoes are
done, or for two hours; then strain through a course
mesh sieve, pour the liquid back again into the boiling
kettle and add one-half gallon good cider vinegar, have
ready two ounces ground spice, same ground pepper,
same mustard, whole; one ounce cloves, two grated nut-
megs, two pounds lght-brown sugar, one pint of salt ;
mix well together, put in kettle and boil two hours,
stirring continually to prevent scorchiug. If it is de-
sired to “hot,” add cayenne pepper to your taste. When
cool, fill bottles, cork tightly, seal with wax, keep ina
dry, cool place.” —G. D., Baltimore, Md. |

No. 10. “ Take one gallon of strained tomatoes,
four tablespoonfuls of salt, one and a half of allspice,
three of mustard, eight pods of red pepper; grind the
articles fine, simmer slowly in strong vinegar three or
four hours, then strain through a hair sieve, and bottle.

THE USES OF THE TOMATO. iyo

Enough vinegar should be used to have half a gallon of
liquor when the process is over.”

No. 11. “ Cut up ripe tomatoes, boil soft and strain ;
put them on again and boil half down; then to every
three and a half gallons of juice, put twelve tablespoon-
fuls of salt, six of pepper, one of allspice, one of mustard,
one of mace, one-half of cloves, one of ginger, six small
pods of red pepper chopped fine; boil hard one hour.”

No. 12. “To one and a half bushel of tomatoes use
the following spices: Three ounces of cloves, two of all-
spice, a little cayenne pepper and plenty of black pep-
per and salt, and a pint of vinegar to each gallon; tie up
a few onions ina bag and boil with the catsup; boil
half down.”

No. 13. “ One-half peck of Tomatoes, run through
a sieve; one teacupful of salt, one of mustard seed,
six red peppers, three tablespoontuls of peppers, one-
half gallon of vinegar, piece of horse-radish, one tea-
cupful of nasturtions, half a cup of celery seed. Do
not cook, but seal tight in bottles.”

No. 14. Tomato-Mustard—* Take one peck of
tomatoes, cut them into a porcelain kettle, boil until
soft, rub through a sieve, put the pulp back in the ket-
tle, and boil until quite thick; take one teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper, one of white, half a one of cloves, two
of mustard, one tablespoonful of salt. Let all boil
together a few minutes, then stir in half a pint of
vinegar. When cool, bottle and cork tightly.”

Tomato Salad.‘ Take the skin, seeds and juice
from nice, fresh tomatoes, chop what remains with
celery and add any good palatable dressing.”

156 LIVINGSTON -AND THE- TOMATO.

Tomato Sauce—No. 1. ‘“ Place on fire, tomatoes
washed clean, broth, onion, parsley and seasonings ;
boil to a pulp—about thirty-five minutes; rub through
fine sieve, return to fire, stir in butter, and serve.”

No. 2. “ Pare, slice and stew tomatoes for twenty
minutes, strain and rub through a sieve; put into sauce-

pan with a little minced onion, parsley, pepper, salt and
sugar. Bring to a-boil, stir in a good spoonful of but-
ter rolled in floor; boil up and serve.”

No. 3. “Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves and
salt and pepper for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced |
onion and sprig of parsley), strain through a sieve, put
on a stove in a sauce-pan in which a Inmp of butter the
size of an egg, and level tablespoonful of flour have been
well mixed and cooked; stir all until smooth, and serve.
Canned tomatoes nay be used as a substitute.”

No. 4. “ For green tomato sauce, cut up two gal-
lons of green tomatoes, take three gills black mustard
seed, three tablespoons dry mustard, two and a half of
black pepper, one and a half of allspice, four of salt, two
ot celery seed, one quart each of chopped onions and
sugar, and two anda half quarts good vinegar, a little
red pepper to taste.”

Tomato Omelette—* Skin two or three tomatoes,
cut in slices, fry in butter, beat up some eggs to make
omelette, season with salt and pepper, warm some but-
ter in pan, put in the eggs, stirring well to keep from
adhering, mix in tomatoes, turn out omelette on plate,
doubling it in two. Another nice way is to roll up
tomatoes in omelette and serve with tomato-sauce.”

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. Lot

There is one thing all tomato-eaters should remem-
ber, that the flavor of a tomato is very delicate. It
escapes readily with much handling, shaking, knocking
or hauling about. Get it and consume it when it comes
as directly from the vine as possible. Let market-
gardeners also catch the hint. Hurry to the kitchens
of your customers with as much care and celerity as you
can. They will taste all the better, and so increase the
demand for your productions. I do not believe, that
the full use to which tomatoes can be put, has as yet
been attained. I sincerely ask all expert or amateur
cooks, who have a good way of using them, to send us
the recipes for same, and it will find a place in our
next edition. I heartily; commend such to try other
methods of using tomatoes, as may be suggested to
them; and, if they prove valuable, let us know about it.

64. The Extent of Tomato Culture.—My read-
ers will be impressed with the greatness of the business
about which I have written, by statements like the fol-
lowing: “It ranks next in importance to that of Irish
potatoes. It is well for us to know the best methods of
cultivation, so as to produce the greatest quantity, with
best quality, and when we need them most.” I hope this
book will meet that felt necessity to a reasonable degree.
«A single county in Maryland has over $1,000,000 in-
vested in the canning business.”

“The people of Cobden, Ill., are particularly proud
of their tomato crop, and on this popular vegetable the
town ‘does herself big. She has been known to ship

°

158 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

thirty-three carloads of tomatoes.in one day, and this
does not include several carloads hauled over to Moun-
tain Glen, a town on the Mobile & Ohio Railroad, and
within a few hours after this great train load was sent
oft, at least fifty carloads more could have been picked.”

From the Virginia Experimental Station, as follows:
“Few are aware how important the cultivation of special
crops 1s now becoming in Virginia. In all the Eastern
States, in fact, the tendency of agriculture is in the diree-
tion of specialties, and the tiller of the soil who would
not fall behind in the race must recognize this fact. - As
one among such special crops, the culture of tomatoes
holds a high rank. Statistics sufficient to give definite
information in reqard to the money value of this crop in
Virgima have not yet been collected by the Station.
Judging, however, from general statements, there must
be in this State no less than eighty, and probably as many
“as one hundred, canneries working on this crop, either
alone or in conjunction with other fruits. In addition
to this, the market crop grown in the vicinity of Norfolk
and on the Eastern Shore, will reach about one-half the
value of that used in the canneries. Hence, it seems
fair to say that the value of the tomato crop grown for
these two purposes alone—tor the canneries and for
market—cannot: fall short of one million dollars annually.
This takes no account of what is grown in a general
way for local markets and home consumption. As
already stated, the estimation is not based upon an accu-
rate knowledge of facts, but there is every reason to be-
lieve that it is within bounds.”

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 159

Prot. W. H. Bishop, Horticulturist of the Maryland
Experimental Station, has the following to say of the
business in that State: “To-day the tomato may be
classed as one of the most important garden vegetables,
and, in fact, its culture has so far extended beyond the
limits of the garden that it is rather a field crop than a
garden crop. In Maryland alone there are not less than
twelve thousand acres yearly devoted to growing this
crop, and only about one-fourth of the acreage of the
country is found in this State. There are two hundred
packing houses in this State that devote the whole or
part of the season to canning tomatoes. The promi-
nence and magnitude of this industry have induced us
at the Maryland Experiment Station to give special at-
tention to the questions affecting the grower and packer.”

The growing of tomatoes is fast spreading into
newer countries for the older countries to consume, as
the following clip from a recent number of the “Ameri-
can Agriculturist” will show: “Eftorts are being made
to establish a trade for South African tomatoes and po-
tatoes in London. Tomatoes would be needed in the
London market during January, February and March,
and potatoes during February, Mareh and April, and it
is urged that the latter be grown in red soil where pos-
sible. The London vegetable dealers are prepared to
pay from one and one-half to two cents per pound for
tomatoes, which would pay the farmers, one of whom
guarantees to supply from eighty to one hundred tons of
the Acme and Perfection varieties.” It also shows what
kinds are reaching from American soil to London mar-

160 LIVINGSTON. AND THE TOMATO.

kets, and then from “the survival of ae fittest’ there,
finding its way into “Darkest Africa.’

I now quote in full from the “American Grocer” of
New York, January 11, 1893. This need not be read,
but is placed here tor reference, to show what the busi-

ness was when this volume was written:
Tomato Pack—1892.

“We take pleasure in presenting our thirteenth
annual report of the pack of tomatoes throughout the
United States and Canada. The total output is slightly
behind that of 1891, the shortage amounting to 38,675.
It appears, however, that the total output is above the
average of the past six years and slightly behind that of
the past three years. It is apparent that the present
consumptive requirements of the country are beyond
the average annual pack for six years of 3,179,214 cases.
It is certain that the total output of 1892 will have
passed into consumption long before another season’s
operations have commenced. Had it not been for the
very favorable weather toward the close of the season,
throughout New Jersey, the shortage would have been
much larger. In the West there was a great falling off
in the output. Wherever a shortage occurred, it was
due to untavorable climatic conditions.

“ We separate the report of Canada from our usual
tables this year because that market is practically closed
to the United States. The pack in Canada this season
was comparatively heavy. Tomatoes are selling in
Canadian cities at 75 cents per dozen. Were it not for

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 161

the duty of 45 per cent. they might be available for use
in the United States. Here is an instance of the wis-
dom of the McKinley tariff in protecting American can-
ners against the competition of Canadian packers.

3 “Throughout the season there has been an unsat-
isfied demand for high grade goods. It is gratifying to
note that there is a steadily widening market for fine
brands and that consumers evidence a willingness to pay
for quality, even if some jobbers are reluctant to dis-
eriminate between standards and extra, to the extent
packers deem-remunerative for the extra expense their
packing involves. There has been a difference of from
10 to 25 cents per dozen between the price of brands,
due wholly to variations in quality and the estimation
put upon brands by the retail trade and consumers.
Established labels that have represented high and uni-
form quality command full prices.

« As usual our statement is based on actual returns
received from packers and commission merchants, to all
of whom we return thanks for their prompt answers and
willingness to institute special inquiries. The following
table, the pack of 1892, in comparison with that of
1891.”

162 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.
PACK BY STATES. fede te 525
INOW ROUSE Vinal s Joatiot a aries eon Oe ya ae ees 862,692
WAP TAIL 5, sr cee tie SA Se ede Uk oe ets 977,742
Pa eigiiaeiec sat exc eke ee ak ac cs aks Ss vin cate 282,717
SU OMIA i an oct tans aes that eats ie S 230,943
Preheat sets ie pee Sees er oy RO ee 175,700
NSW SOE es Shes 5s 5 iicleh Sets wee 2 een a ig 146,290
Virginia and West Virginia (2UU0);......... 60,386
BON fea ep AS. We oo Capac See nae in 57,500
MDA Seong BE gens SE re gt Se eS ee eT a ene a ae 87,840
MIGRRE MBIA Seat Se hn Sree Oe. nee giereee ee 64,621
Di ech iabiae tis tan) Nee fag eg cos ry Pindar eee ee 39,602
BDL WIRIS ic peice tke canss el wk Ree cas eke Rees 42,200
RO MUANNs 1s ogra CAhete Viaina's ue ee Ca ere: 30,833
Ural ie er a Os cae ook at ee ara enh tee iin 55,000
Sig F219 yet oe. a a RP a Read ee atl Saco Sf 2,210
Brera tien yraenilia 2c 0 Shap 1, Sse ead vie eae Hae 18,950
GGnmn ectieuie << visdses. oo 2. cop ENR hee. ok 14,750
SOGNORAUG re cay a thee. eRe ee ee eee 39,262
I UGVSTSE TSAN D4 2" Fl enema lg GRRE glee eh, or NPY P< BNE 6,557
REGTEne Rage eee sts. ais at le ee eee 2,200
PT RRR es Es fe sree ae tS eee ele oe Lee 2,500
GMIMNGR BEE te cg loos pied SacshAr a irieed sere te tte Uta eae
VGRANR sorte a oe Oe athe pice EE ES 100
Bet CARO Re acc he ane Tae ae eaeere 15.0
SOW Olah BET 0 a6 2: ee a Mane CSR eR LE EN 7,900
VELEN SEN, © Seta a re acct ee achat aR RRR ean 1,170
2 Ue ENS RR a ROE RI pci Deca rt 12,400
EovalyUmited: States sic hai we ee ones. 3,223,165
GE TITEST 9 2 ea ee atone Bats MSW a Se eaenaaaey Ye Fo Aas 143,627

Total United States and Canada... ... 3,366,792

1891.
950,83
744,010
341,217
218.311
264,950
114,774

98.360

94,800

90,590

90,350

3,900

3,000

oo or 9k
3,022,060

83,000
3,405,365

“The above table represents the minimum number of cases
packed. Many new factories have been started in the Southern
States and some of them have not reported. The total output in
1892 compares with the pack of previous years as follows:

CASES OF Two DOZEN

189]
1890
1889
1Sss

0 (4, somes Gahere Me Oa ee kee Pye) see a a. olge, py afm. eo Cs wie) aie ea) at ware
Spe mn Shwe fa ala es ee Sey alave ele Je)-c\qh ae) ete ie 6m wi. 6,6 keene, a sea eee
@ ek6, Oe eee ee 26 wate See) Si) s 6 she ube eee a levee. Caw iakee mE eMe! e
2 (2) See). ee ‘Sere a ee, Che ee Noe 6 eyes loys Sle She @ a.16 (6) © Bi pyle we wale? we

6 C6 = Sap eerie te 0)— fe Se whe eee) eo) 6 Gu Je «a ph valle Relea Bal ele sole) o..e

WObaL TOM Six MEARS ote eee ce. ky poe ye ele
AWerage ypersyeakeus a2 sega Ge hee
Average per years 1890-1892............

TIns EACH.
3,366,792
3,405,365
D166 514%
2,976,765
3,343,13
2,817,048

19,075,284
3,179,214
3,312,778

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 163

“Since our last we have chronicled the death of
Mr. Harrison W. Crosby, to whom belongs the credit of
first introducing canned tomatoes, packed in tin cans,
as an article of trade. He lived to see the industry
expand from an experimental point until it was located
in nearly every State in the Union. Mr. Crosby’s first
pack was put up in 1848, while he was a steward at
Lafayette College, Easton, Pa. A common iron sink
was used as a bath. What great advantages have been
made in the application of steam and machinery,
whereby the cost has been reduced from 50 cents per
can, at which prices they sold in 1848, to an average of
7 cents per can for the past seven years! Demand has
increased and the supply expanded, while the cost has
steadily declined.”

MarKet REVIEW.

“The year opened with confidence in the market.
Although the pack of 1891 was the largest for years, it
was not beyond the requirements of the country. It
was apparent early in the year that there would be no
carry over, as in the days gone by, when new season’s
goods were met by tomatoes anywhere from one to four
years old. The Western Packers’ Association held
about 80,000 cases at the beginning of the year. In
March the trade began making contracts at 874 cents
delivered for New Jersey brands. April was a quiet
month so far as sales for future delivery were concerned;
the spot market was inclined to easier figures.

1564 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

“In May there was renewed demand for contracts.
Early in the month a favorite New Jersey pack was sold
at 85 cents, delivered here. Harford County No. 3
offered at 75 cents per dozen net cash f. o. b., and No. 2
tins at 57} cents. San Francisco reported sales for fu
ture delivery at 75 cents, less 1} per cent. for No. 3 tins.
In June offerings were light, but prices did not advance.
Sales on contract were freely made at 75@774@80 cents
ft. o. b. Harford County. During the summer spot stock
continued scarce and high. In July New Jersey brands
sold at 872 cents and “Delaware brands at 85 cents for
forward delivery. San Francisco quoted 80@822 cents.
Some fears were expressed at this time as to the crop,
there being too much rain and too many bugs. Late in
the month the market for futures was 23 cents higher.
Spot stock also improved, so that 90 cents was obtained
in Baltimore and 922@95 cents in New York. August
opened with free sales of futures at 874@90 cents tor
New Jersey brands; 824@85 cents for Harford County.

“Deliveries of 1892 tomatoes commenced about the
middle of August, causing a drop in quotations for spot.
The quality of the first shipment was not of a high order.
Reports during August were not favorable for a large
pack, particularly in the Western States. Drouth caused
an active demand to spring up, brokers reporting heavy
sales in early September, chiefly from the West. Sales
were made at 80 cents cash, f. o. b. Hartord County, for:
large blocks. The market was firm throughout the
month, with hght offerings, as dry weather continued

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 165

and fears were expressed for the result in the Atlantic
Coast States.

“Toward the close of September and early in Octo-
ber, the weather in New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland
was very favorable for tomato vines, the canneries run-
ning full time and some working nights. This weather
continued for some time, so that the estimated shortage
in the pack was overcome. The market continued to
rule in packers’ favor, as it was apparent that the total
supply was to be behind that of the previous year.
Ninety to ninety-two and a half cents was readily paid
in New York for No. 3 standard, while 85 cents eash f.
o. b. was the lowest price in Harford County. In No-
vember some of the heaviest operators in the country
reported their stocks the smallest held at that time for
several years. The demand continued good until the
close of the year. Prices ruled in sellers’ favor and
closed firm at one dollar, at which price sales were made.

“The following range of prices for the year in New
York, Philadelphia and Baltimore will convey an idea
of the condition governing the market throughout the
year. The figures represent prices for good standard
No. 3 tins, and generally represent grades of that quality
and not such as are regarded extra.”

166 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

‘The following table gives the range of prices for each month in
the vear for standard No. 3 Tomatoesin New York, Philadelphia and
Baltimore:

N.Y. &N.J.No.3. PHILADELPHIA. BALTIMORE.

January ei $085 @ 90 $075 @ 773 $075 @ 8
PEDLEATY~i 45 - =. 824 @ 90 774 @ 80 80 @ 823
INMAKCHES 4s 28 Kes 8 @ 90 * 80 @~ 823 80 @ 823
PPE Gass oe Bin hoe 823 @ 873 80 @ 823 80 @ —
1s CR Rao are eee 824 @ 8&5 80 @ &23 80 @ —
SUNS sees st 8 @ 873 823 @ 85 82; @ 8
Sieg ly ee so Aen Mana 873 (a 923 823 @ 8&5 85 @ 90
Woetistes ye. oi58 90 @ 925 85 @ 873 8 @ —
September .....-. 909 @ 9 77% @ 80 823 @ 90
OCbODERo3 24s ss 5 90 @ 923 823 @ 85 874 @, 90
November ...... 90 @ 923 8 @ 873 90

December....... 923 @ 1 00 874 @ 90 90 @1 00

“The following table gives the highest and lowest prices for
standard grade of peas in No. 5 tins in the New York market

for seven years:

RPP SOE oA cpteted eee en ak Se ae $0 823 @ 1 00

iS Ate) 9¢2: hae ae Cot! | MRR aCe Sn oR Sere ey ny Soe ore 80 @ 8)
WROD sok 6s oa hee eee oe 773 @ 1 00

aS 5 Se ses so. Pel pee eee Bree ek 823 @ 88

| Bt 99s Say ae aks eye eda rete a 90: @ 1 05

OCR Lee aoe cae cae PR Ee ee 95 @ 1 10
eS REPRE Pe te eh Cera Ey MING? GAPE TZ Cee, Saoey 883 (@ 1 15

“The following table brings into comparison the price of No. 3
standard Tomatoes in Philadelphia on January 1, each year for the
past nineteen years:

POS crete y ae eecdae hee 95 LEG wiih. ee set gee ee 1 00
Os or oe vee net enolate 75(@80 LSS FoSsc, 8 te ete oe ee 22
ROU, 4 pee oe eae he em 75(@80 LOSE. 596.5 es See Lh
MOR Te ree paar ae ore Sela 75 1980). 30% Vo Ge Soe ee 1 20
PaO Ss tate Fase ee aes Gag ESTO is: ae iene ees ae 90
1h (ote PRO EAe parteyee eS cree OTs.) WOTne ts Aa ae Bae anne See ek 1 90
USES sakats, oto st aerons Siew tecats ta 90 No A Ber a RAG ae pete Ie at 1 70
Memthisere.s wise ts eared, waa oo 90 Lol UA Bao ae a 1 50
eeemremi thc oes chao e wae 75 BAW, ete rie! dx oo seen ee 1 30
eae sw cictely wins ea 80

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 167

NEW JERSEY.

“New Jersey loses its place as the banner State,
Maryland taking that honor. The output in 1892 was
862,692 cases, falling off from the preceding year 88,141
cases. The season opened about a week later than in
1891. Most of the houses opened between Aug. 20 and
Aug. 25, while some did not commence operations un-
til early in September. The packing closed at most
places between Oct. 15 and Oct. 25. The first setting
of fruit was marketed in good shape, but the second
setting was injured by dry weather, and for a time fears
were entertained for the pack, but late in the season
climatic conditions were exceedingly favorable ; so much
so that the expected shortage was reduced to the small
quantity noted above. , Messrs. Kirby Bros. and Mrs.
Sarah Aldrich, of Burlington ; Messrs. Brown & Dunn,
of Trenton ; the Diamond Packing Co., and West Jersey
Packing Co., of Bridgeton; Chamberlain & Co.. of
Mercer County, are among those who discontinued work
during the year. Among the new factories was the
Hopewell Valley Canning Co. at Hopewell.”

DELAWARE.

“ Delaware falls behind last year 89,250 cases on
account of drouth. In some sections of the State the
pack was very light, about one-half that of previous
years. The factories opened between Aug. 20 and the
first of September, and closed between Oct. 15 and 27.
The old firm of Calhoun and Thoroughbred was termi-

168 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

nated by the purchase of Mr. Thoroughbred’s interest
by Geo. C. Calhoun. Their factory is located at George-
town. J. N. Maxwell operated the factory formerly
run by Carsins & Maxwell. The factory of A. W. Small,
at Lincoln, was operated by Thomas U. Marvell. Among
the factories discontinued were Macklin & Co., at
Georgetown, Thomas Dutton, at Redden and one at
Shelbyville.”
NEW YORK.

«The packing in this State did not begin until
about the first of September, although one or two
houses started operations a few days earlier, and some
not until the middle of September. The pack termina-
ted early owing to frost. Many houses packed none.
The New York State Preserving Company, at Buttalo,
was discontinued. The factory at Fairport, formerly
operated by C. & H. J. Burlingham, was operated by
Howard Thomas..”

MARYLAND.

«There were quite a number of factories discon-
tinued in Harford County, during the past year, while
we have added a few names. The packing opened early,
some houses getting at work during the first week in
August. The season terminated at various dates in
October, some houses not closing until nearly the end
of the month. Some of the packers report a yield of
400 bushels of fine Tomatoes per acre. One of the
packers writes that he finds it very profitable to sow
seed as early as February, and to get strong plants out

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 169

about the first of May. He is of the opinion that the
early grown fruit is far superior to the late crop. Taken
altogether, the season in Harford county must be con-
sidered a good one. Had it not been for drouth the
pack in Harford county would have been heavier. In
some sections the yield was cut down one-half by dry
weather. The pack of the city of Baltimore was ahead
of last year. It reached a total of 573,000 cases. We
do not count in the Baltimore estimate, Tomatoes pack-
ed out of the city, but carrying the label of Baltimore
packers.”
CALIFORNIA AND UTAH.

«The season opened about the first of September and
closed the latter end of October. One house reports not
having closed until the first of December. Utah figures
in our table for the first time. Three factories in the
Territory report an out-put of 55,000 cases.”

INDIANA.

“The season in this State opened early in August
aud terminated during the last half of September.
There were a number of new factories in the State, one
each located at Seymour, Ewing, North Indianapolis,
Knightstown, Monticello and Spiceland. Several facto-
ries in this State packed an average of 30,000 cases each.”

ILLINOIS.

“The pack in Illinois was 26,124 cases behind that
of last year. The season opened late—not until the
last part of August, and closed during the last fortnight
of October. The crop was poor.

170 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

IOWA.

“This State falls behind last year 37,500 cases. ‘The
season opened toward the end of August and continued
until the latter part of October. The factory of The
Potter Canning Company was removed from La Motte
to Wyoming. The factory at Fairfield was discontinued.”

MISSOURI.

«“ Most of the factories commenced work about the
first of September. One or two began operations during
the early part of August. There was a new fattory at
Odessa and also one at Independence.”

KANSAS.

«The crop was late. Several factories did not
pack so that there was a deficiency of 19,867 cases as
compared with the small total of last year.”

THE SOUTH.

«There have been alarge number of small factories
started at various poiits in the Southern States. Asa
rule, these houses turn out a small quantity, say 1,000
to 1,500 cases, for which they find a local market. One
factory in Georgia commenced in July and stopped in
October with an output of 5,000 cases. Another in
North Georgia also packed 5,000 cases. One of them
put up 25,000 cases of peaches. The factory at Griffin,
Ga., was discontinued. In Alabama the Tomato crop
was a failure and almost nothing was done in Texas
and Arkansas.” .

THE EXTENT OF TOMATO CULTURE. 171

OHIO.

“The crop was very good in quality, but deficient
in quantity. The season commenced from the 5th to
the 20th of August.”

VIRGINIA.

“There were quite a number of factories discon-
tinued during the year. The season opened all the
way from the first to the latter part of August, and
closed at various dates in October. There was only a
partial crop.”

From the above report, which is as accurate as is
available, we may learn that the consumption of Toma-
toes is ahead of the productions averaged for the last
six years. Also that the production fell short last year
and the stock on hands will be consumed long before
the new ones come into market. This means, as we
reason, that the Tomato growing and canning business
is likely to be good for several years to come.

Another thing is clear from this report, viz: That
“high grade goods” are in demand. Of course there
is more risk to aim for this, but there is also more gain
if you can make it win.

The prospect for Tomato culture, in my judgment,
Was never more flattering. There is no end to newer
and better developments in the business in kinds, cul-
ture, apphances, harvesting and selling. I was much
interested in a statement in a recent number of the
Rural New Yorker, as illustrative of ‘something new,”
which I here give as follows:

172 LIVINGSTON AND THE TOMATO.

“Tt occurred to the writer last year that the Tomato
might possibly be induced to become a tuber-bearing
plant. Ie reasoned that the Tomato berry or fruit is
structurally the same as the potato berry or fruit; that
the wild potato bears very small and very few tubers,
while it bears lots of fruit; that cultivation alone has
reversed this, causing a maximum of tuber and a mini-
mum of fruit. Accordingly several Tomato plants set
out last May have been disbudded as soon as the buds
have appeared. The plants have grown to twice the
usual size of those which are allowed to bloom, and to
bear all the fruit they will. The effect on the roots is
not yet known. Probably such plants will have to be
propagated by cutting through several or many seasons,
never allowing them to bloom, before it can be decided
whether the Tomato may or may not be forced into a
tuber-bearing plant. The suggestion is offered to our
station experimentors for what it may be worth.”

Would it not be strange indeed, if in a few years
we were to have tuber-bearing Tomatoes as common
on our markets, and as much sought after as the Irish
potato is now? And yet stranger things have happened
than this! J trust the Rural and other reliable papers
will follow this up till it is known what can be done
for us all in this line.

Well, we have now been together for a long time,
a whole season through, over these Tomato affairs in the
world. Itrust you have been not a little interested in
reading and will be not a little profited by trying to .do
the things I have suggested to you on these pages.

ALPHABETICAL

INDEX.

NO. PARAGRAPH. PAGE,

PE GMAIL! Sore. PRE ETTS oy wa B Sichoa'p ob be We ay ral Be en ew 25
JAWS EN Os regis Cac Pam oe, as Nie 2 SAO a ea a Pane de rome 9
MR GINTCL TAT Ae ne Yoel di cyte ra ines Mk pujk AS ae emcee ey aay iy

Aims >... Oi Oh Same ae pee ee ap saat a a See RE 20

USE EOMAIOES A «2 Spins Foe nd he sates eRe T ee © Gakic en ak roe 141
oC S TENT SOR LT nes po a a Se he We SP ad ee Sy Ae eee 51
UAE) INO), RARER pels at ar Ae a SE ee Pe Saag Ln rete ta ae 122
DaMleel ee eee Pe SDA Se et en Bh Wie oe be reid BD 2. ater, 120
toiled Torntato. ts. Sse. nao. RPO aria Be a aeie & bE Se 142
Rem ATTN Dart erase saad Teale oa fw eee e Sele eh sere wae 125
Poche e- mine LOMmabo.s Leo Sec koe 9 8 aes SP iets cs. sere Al
1 Ui epee BOTT TN 0) 2 Cpe ee a EO they Ba oh Poke oe 146
GEN li hE Dy Ce pis i Pn pe a A Mat Uae Gonter cee eae 146
eerste MES TOT Gale oe ken ol bee oie ne Ais ah S re eatin Late: 65
| US| Et a7 eae a ee mara yack BAO aA a Ge eae oar ° 157

Reaie lapis reside gOS so. 1ts, ae ee ee eon Vee OOo tate ate 65
REO AMOR «74S Sa cca hia Man eicadicn Se Gr ata Bote 152

CO CTLIGTE TE AVEO) 2c Eee en aaa mae UL a a Aiea kee, 78
Ee olorde Potate (buss) ti eae. kage ones at De AC Sis 117
Pree MMMM. Ts. ak a ee ate hee eae ROW Reew ete n P 47
Peniurer dan Figerel aes feta. sais oe Ck dws wet EM ae aie MET eke er 104
GE TAPIA BOnA I vo ta SUR eed cos nue Oe SRR Ret Bi)

Under Glass:...5-.<: Pere ee ae ae ag Bt) eee a Sis 11]

Iaplem Sie Orcs ss: meen ko cad ec rh bag: PRS ope 92

Pie WRG LC AM 5 i Site oe ole, vs cs Be a eye Bore oo as ok 95
SGU ehh: COWL... sates BL pc wet ees at I aoe oak she Gi 95
Trimming on Stakes or Trellis......... AE eee a's bia tvs 101

eh) eRe ee! Oro CN Seren erie we AM eee 2 ary eh we tg 96

ley sire ean ire nes tok a Se alee en stra Bee Na eS a 105

Ry peed perineal) ie ae ek cccar & we’ ih Fee bs Toes ese 97

nl aor AE MONIES: OPNGIRE oo verses Sark ¥ krek | i pals en Se a 49

SL Aci 020 OSA OPS a Se a ER OES EE Ridgarat ws . Cah 6 157
Acl@otrig et Gal: Sela Meena 9 eet ane eS eee Be iy fas) ays 0s 115
LST) a Nebel GR a Re eo 7 at Se ee 115

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

NO. PARAGRAPH. PAGE.

Mees s.r. os he ae aN Ro oe ER eee Blows ieee 115
Escalloped Vomargess = seas oss sa cca we aes Gol fae eee 141

Histon ot -meiieeet oe hcca ce S. te ba ee GP EGA he cee 157

Family Use, Seedeilan, <sot oct ace re oe cos Vins Ss CY RSE ope eat . 64

How! S@witst 6.20.2 er eee ees Ste ee ef 66

Wayeito Coole: -. cee sae Goines kn ee 137

Parmers Naiwe.O wn Seed..fs3 Sack sen enss eee ee RN ne oe EE 54

BR avoOrive Male «+ caico os Oaeciseirits ihe eerie 8 i SS eee 30:

SS ah POLO 22 os S88 nese mee ol Salt Gin ataee Gants hae 145

Rield Crop Wulture ©. 5 as ide cea ns ect acres AD oe toc eee 93.

Marah: POMIACG! soi; cisco no ane ea km were eee ART yee ot Ss 19
ee OE Re aig idee Gees oa eS ee a ee Gos ate oe sS

Hraiies Ol: 42. vec. vec Vette k alee eaten ST. tare seem 78

Pied Lomas. ¢ Sok joke c coe os Be i eee Gala Sek eee 140

Gardeners—Raise their own Seed.............. OD Seth i eae 54

Kemd Sto Grays ts ee eos oe DSC eee 65

Marketed <<; ot: flac cae een ares Goo tat eee 1351

Gold Bal EOmate.ce sai tce- oso Se ee aes es Sane 1 ae icin ee 39

Gokleuwpcen: POMALO sx sven oh ote woe a fpr Mees! Se = Soe

CTGwl WMmertalase. sok ole olckc et eeceos an See 1 SR Pe 65

AVE RERAE TONS oa NS A re hr ie ABS oa ie Uae Spee 104

Gh SCAR OS Le wows Kae oe sa ie Se ee ae aS By Fe SS oe ae 96

@ar Dreliisanys. Sec hei nee ee oe O82) 22 eee 105

Oats (err M ns 2s aregices ake Pacers eee ee AS Le ae 95

Harvestine Sebe 820-25 pad gas Shak calves 60, G1; G2 ccna eee 127

Hints to American Seed Trade Association..... Pa er ee 57

Enome “Uses. Kids 4OR es vo ooo beret Ware oc ee ae DES So Se eee 64

How. 20: COOKER fee oe Sat ae ees 63, Oe 137

Frotbeds— Commons... 5c. neo eee eke ete 33 OS 2 aoe 70

Moresbectenged: 3 25 5. Boe eae SO * sacs ale Gee 74

(CAPCUNRRS 5 5.7 i OO cio a wie oe ee SG Sb er see 77

Sowing Seed imi: 2. ARs oe rete OA Cee cae

implements for Cultivation wth saree ee ess Rew: Ngee oth 92

Jat Ole LOMAOCR = 2. 60 PP ee ee ee 63

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

NO. PARAGRAPH,

Sg a te) ele Be} af is ale

Oe Oe See) e) ere dae

oe 628i w/e) oe aia 6

S/S e? « eo. Die eres =".

ha ore He (o. 6.'o (aig! Owe

Kinds, How to Get Rrskctate) aliainisis'e e wigsitire emits ake
Mette Biney stem Our Po. aimee hie tee ko 18

Pa UsHinie Mery bana avers Pye tre 2 19
BLGaNS (eich demm mnie Migs oe. 35 ke 20

Can I Raise My Own Seed? ............ 22
WiwiNot a Standard ?.) 3.9305 s200 5. cy 898

ro Sig o1 eT C10) 2) «SMR a Ba RA ate 26

Hor tHomrecliege ss Sori anaes Sn Set 27

For Market Gardeners ......9 0590s. 28

Berm anpens Sastre. spe kt eh 29

For Catsups and Preserves............. 30
0e-Grow tinder Glass. 0-2. 5302. 31
«ETE STU LI GE Ree i Ae NG ae ee eee a 59
HOR SHMIPDEIS a Fs oss sce) os 60, 61

For Home Gardeners ........... 62

wa BEd UTSE SESS al SA Mi A cal 39
Market Gardeners, Grow Own Seed? .......... 22
Winds ter: Maem. pc 4 28

me er pe MOUs) shake A oy Me Ne 3
New Dwarf Aristocrat Tomato................ 16
MEW MOTO POMEEO:.(5.,.1.. ss caee ee 12
PCE DEE IT) he Cons eR a. SI 63
SEAPASOMPEOTMALOS oF ohn tint ol Seg os ot 4
Peach Tomato, Large Rose .................... 17
Bortnon. Pomiatie,: tina. cite. ee tea 6
a eRe ora a tnx Monte St ot te ota ened ie i tee, 63
ep Eerie pa nek ap os Ry eae ae oe 63
BBE he rea Pee actan tit on Linea tee el a 63
Po bate- tues, Colorado: 2 22). i eh a 54
pete beal Vomit...) 60. ois 7h Ue 11
Ppearstions of Soil. 220 ol. ee 38
BP aeamee Pamde for 35.2640 sy ees 30
: Eitan bake ee. ie. ned sce ah, 63
GL! RNR RE SOS SEN i a 24
pe rarnie—Down-Oulture c.f sf. 44

PS CDEP rat ake pte PY 47

®, BAS; oh aNd 16 10 ‘ee mre

a fon wie! sete wie, ef ete

®) 0's exe! ee 6) s* ete ©

ENO? 6 aV ee) 68h e046) 6

O) Gate eta, esha eine) S

© Ble a & oly ees oe 1%

Ce She ka slew bi ee

Ree 1b + Wewle ew ale

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

NO. PARAGRAPH. PAGE.

Mueen; Golden, Tomato 2. eiics Soe oes (SEAS Ea. f 29
Remedies for—Damping off ................... Selene Bares eee ec
Cunt Wy OlMag a nee ht US SS aed Stes coat hg. 116

Colorado: Potato Bueies: 2.32: 54) Se aaa 117
Tabacco-W orm {5 ami ee Oe ase eee 118

Bie Page cas eae eee NN Sats a arene 120

Biel adh: Sh orci Nee ete Od eS he Soe ot 122

Phe Borer W Ofnt i352 eck es DG ay. eaten 125

[Roy regi b'le2 1c) tee a te AE teen. Mii este ANSE coe ie Bel eia.ds ieee 122
Hose Peach: Tomato, Large 5 fees dykes LE Re De, 44
Gy) ied “Voumerte: «123%. o hs 2" ica. ay ek aeons LG, lise cep 38
earn Walls hey tii eee te = an Sa iat 18 Siena 46
Salads, Tomatoes. 2 )2.. PP re ee he re Ts eS 7 155
SMG Ese O MALO 2 osc: bo tA G. oe eve ee St a le 62 ea ee oe 156
BEE eee Pama a etast ss St ae an eeoe een wees cio ee De iokteen a Ree 57
Heleated miele Meed: eae. ask aera Lee as DM . geo Gee 51
Solna WmderSeal. ve {Sos ote e hat cee an ne ae TO ek ee oeieee 34
SELL CHROMO’ = # ORME Sp igs ks enna aan eg AA SB HO. 60, 61, (62. 2005 a ee 126
Sick. Pomatges fOr sf, 52h 50 ts i Mea oh ae AP Gd«2y 24a eee 138
Shap pimMg Pebe 22. SL I.c.. tes Sis aoctets 2 hE (O05 OM) cer eee 126
hice chy Piivih@ 22.5.2) hos Mets eteacocais asses = a G3: ofS aeaeee 139
Sieetila-ohenbhntre Bile. se35.:. cee ovis ota nas 8 hel eal ne ea a
Soule Preparations tor (Plants. 2:2 208 eee. 2s BS "sa. so 82
DORE eC Ts cas, steers ee ea ae DO ied See ee 66
BOmpee soar setacsict sie of Stee Sees |e Reh Got ve tcees GOs oss nee eee 142
Seite Se Soc cate Se a ee yen ha eaeemero et Sas AR ree 96
Sipe OMMAbOs WME REV ey sh ile eran y pace ers eae TGs Ee eee 41
SeomerLonsato; Lhe New sia se Sens sce Ses oe PD oe ee 37
rajhs Tig? 11.0 = Rds 6) apt cE 6 |: PEA CAPER SALA SRE, Soest A 20) oe 49
Toasted DV omrmimes tcc te 6 oe ee te G3. sD Acne 140
POPACCO-W OF Say... 58 vk SSS Eee ae oe Bp: Sole we cae 118
rank planting 20s eeS Lt Get Ola ee ee Sees cA aati cart 5 87
Greig... BOT e eet the ORR ee eee BT tees ee 101
PPPs Oy esc ia cih ao ae Care in nie ee ce ge ceay AQ heh eee 105
Maeva bigs. 4 ee os. ee eee eRe 46«,0.3 ee 97

ees: GEckce soe. Pa age Ma RED Ya Ce et GS) ts ae oe uve

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aypiiee? us

eg 7%
hy

aos

ibe

Fev anes Gn
on Bam.

shat em Barts
OF eM

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56 ay Te r P

Py sk ome a 5 :

ite i 3 ; aner de tes

Fee Y aM HERA DM
art :

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