Kc < x Sv '
re* (
* ijw. '

^ - .

. i S-I&A

.

-^11

THE

LONDON ART OF COOKERY,

AND

Domestic Housekeepers Complete Assistant,

UNITING

THE PRINCIPLES OF

ELEGANCE, TASTE, AND ECONOMY;

AND ADAPTED

TO THE VSE OF SERVANTS,

AND

FAMILIES. OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

CONTAINING

Every elegant and plain Preparation in im-
proved Modern Cookery;

Pickling, Potting, Salting, Collaring, and Sous-
ing >

The whole Art of Confectionary, and making
of Jellies, Jams, Creams, and Ices;

The Preparation of Sugar*, Candying, and
Preserving;

Made Wines, Cordial-waters, and Malt-liquor* j
Bills of Fare for each Month;
Wood-cuts, illustrative of Truising, Carv-
ing, &c.

BY

JOHN FARLEY,

, FORMERLY PRINCIPAL COOK AT THE LONDON TAVERN-

Cije toelrt) Ctrition.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR SCATCHERD AND LETTEUMAN, AVE-MARIA LANE;

C. WILKIE AND J. ROBINSON ; J. WALKER S LONGMAN, HURST, REE8, ORME, AND
BROWN ; CADELL AND DAVIES ; LACKINGTON, ALLEN, AND CO. ; J. RICHARDSON ;
DARTON AND HARVEY ; 3. NUNN ; B. CROiBY AND CO. J T. HUOHFS } GALE AND
CURTIS ; AND CRADOCK AND JOY.

1811-

'"fc,{Ui.ghB aud ItuWI.-tiid, Ht
' t, Uudn.

INTRODUCTION..... 1

HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY S

CHAPTER I. Marketing 9

II. Trussing 19

III. Boiling 26

IV. Roasting 36

V. Baking 45

VI. Broiling 49

VII. Frying 54

VIII. Stews and Hashes 60

IX. Ragouts 7G

X. Fricandeaus..,.. 81

XI. Fricassees 82

XII. Made-dishes 134

XIII. Frugal-dishes 134

XIV. Sauces , 141

XV. Soups and Broths ., 159

XVI. Roots and Vegetables 175

XVII. Puddings isi

XVIII. Pies 199

XIX. Pancakes and Fritters , ,...,,. .'., 218

PART II.

CHAPTER I. Pickling , 2-25

II. Collaring 239

III. Potting 243

IV. Salting and Sousing 250

V. Garden-stuffs and Fruits., , , 258

vin

CONTENTS.

PART III.

CHAPTER I. Sugars 263

II. Tarts and Pufts * 265

III. Cakes 270

IV. Custards and Cheesecakes... 280

V. Creams and Jams 284

VI. Jellies and Syllabubs 290

VII. Preserving 298

VIII. Drying and Candying 307

IX. Ornaments for the Table 313

X. Instructions for Carving 316

PART IV.

CHAPTER I. Made Wines 324

II. Cordial-waters 339

III. Malt-liquors 345

APPENDIX.

SECTION I. Considerations on Culinary PoisoHs ....;..,. 36*

II. Bread, Cakes, Muffins, &c.... 367

III. Nourishment for the Sick 371

IV. Necessary Articles for Seafaring Persons 376

V. General Observations on the Breeding of

Poultry 379

CATALOGUE OF GARDEN-STUFFS, POULTRY, AND FISH 383

USEFUL TABLES 387

INDEX .,,,,,...,,...,......,,,... 393

PREFACE.

V^OOKERY, like every other Art, has been moving
forward to Perfection by slow Degrees; and yet
daily Improvements are still making, as must be the
Case in every Art depending on Fancy and Taste.
From the many Books of this Kind already pub-
lished, it could hardly be supposed there would be
occasion for another, yet we flatter ourselves, that
the Readers of this Work will find, from a candid
Perusal, and an impartial Comparison, that our
Pretensions to the Favours of the Public are not ill
founded.

The Generality of Books on Cookery are grouped
together, without Method or Order, and therefore
rendered intricate and bewildering; even the Re-
ceipts are written with so much Carelessness and
Inaccuracy, that they are not only perplexing, but
frequently unintelligible. In this Work, however,

PREFACE.

we hope, that Perspicuity and Regularity will be
seen in every step we have taken. We have divided
the whole Book into separate Parts, and those Parts
into Chapters; so that our Readers have only to look
into the Contents, and they will there find at one
view, the whole of that Branch of Cookery they may
want to consult. The Utility of regularly classing
every Thing in a Book of this Kind is too obvious to
need Arguments lo support it.

The greatest Care and Precaution have boon
taken to admit nothing inelegant, or prejudicial to
the Constitution, in any of the Receipts ; and we
have not only given, in the Appendix, a distinct
Section on Culinary Poisons, but have also in dif-
ferent Parts of the Work reminded the Cooks of
the fatal Consequences of not keeping their Coppers
and Saucepans properly clean and tinned,

As Farley's Cookery is intended for the Use of
all Ranks in general, not only for those who have
attained a tolerable Knowledge of Cookery, but
also for others less experienced, .we have occasion-
filly given the most simple with the most sumptuous
dishes, and thereby afforded the means of decorating
the Table of the Peer, or the M&hauic.

The various Branches of Pastry and Confection-
ary, comprising Pies, Puddings, Cakes, Custards,

PREFACE. VII

Jams, Creams, Jellies, Preserves, Conserves, Ices,
and all the other numerous and elegant Articles of
that Class ; as well as the Preparation of Pickles,
the Art of making Wines, Liqueurs, and Cordials,
are treated under distinct Heads, and rendered
plain, easy, and familiar, to every Capacity. We
shall only add, that neither Labour, Care, nor Ex-
pense have been spared to make this Work worthy
of the Patronage of the Public.

iSCWn.

I

BILL OF FARE FOR JANUARY.
FIRST COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY
FIRST COURSE

SI

ft

SECOND COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR MARCH,
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY.
FIRST COURSE

I

SECOND COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR MARCH,
FIRST COURSE.

1

BILL OF FARE FOR APRIL.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR MA
FIRST COURSE.

VI

8
I

I r V

1

w

I

yy

^

BILL OF FARE FOR JUNE.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

f

c

FARE FOE JULY.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

J
J

rv

J

J-CT

3

AUGUST.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

BILL OF FARE FOR SEPTEMBER.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

(ft

/y/7? FOR OCTOBER.
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

*}

fjtt

#}
{#

<*}

<#

4)
(*

*)

.*

fo

*

y*
)

* ^fif

.

^-^^ < 8\^

{**

*)

(*
*)

{b

OF FARE FOR NOVEMBER.
FIRST COURSE.

*}

SECOND COURSE.

\jheasant\

BILL OF FARE FOR DECEMBER
FIRST COURSE.

SECOND COURSE.

THE

LONDON ART OF COOKERY.

INTRODUCTION.

AN a publication like the present, it would be of
little utility to trace the origin of cookery; nor would
it be easy to say at what period man exchanged
vegetable for animal diet : certain it is, that he no
sooner began to feed on. flesh, fowl, and fish, than
seasonings of some kind became requisite, not only
to render such food more pleasing and palatable,
but also to help digestion and prevent putrefaction.
Of these seasonings, salt was probably the first dis-
covered; though some are inclined to think, that
savory roots and herbs were previously used. Spices,
however, such as ginger, cinnamon, pepper, cloves,
and nutmegs, by degrees came into practice, and
the whole art of cookery gradually improved, till it
reached its present perfection.

Boiling, or stewing, seems to have been the first
mode of, dressing; toasting, or broiling, succeeded
next; and beyond these, no improvements were
made in the art of cookery for several centuries.
The introduction of trade and commerce into Eu-
rope, soon made us acquainted with the products of
other countries; and rich fruits and spices, im-

B

11 INTRODUCTION.

ported from the most remote regions of the globe
were soon sought after with avidity. Cookery, in-
cluding pickling, and the various branches of con-
fectionary, soon became an art, and was as methodi-
cally studied as the more polite sciences. A regular
apprenticeship is now served to it; and the profes-
sors of it are incorporated by charter, as forming
one of the livery companies of London. Since then
Cookery must be considered as an art, we shall pro-
ceed to treat of its different branches in regular
order ; but preface our directions, by some useful
hints on domestic economy.

1 o every mistress of a family, we cannot too strenuously
Recommend the superintendence of her domestic concerns, the
investigation oP all accounts, particularly those of her trades-
men and her servants; and the most strict scrutiny into the
characters of those she may admit as inmates of her house.
Amongst the minor duties inseparable from her situation, are,
the attention to her storeroom, and linen of every description.
In the former, should be a selection of the most unperish^
able stores, of which description are groceries, candles, soap,
starch, &c. ; and of the latter, no more should be delivered to
the housekeeper, than are absolutely requisite for constant
use ; and of these a correct inventory made, as a check upon
the housekeeper, who will thereby be compelled to account
for every deficiency.

The Housekeeper*

SHOULD take her orders for the day, early in the morning \
by which means all the under-servants will have sufficient
time to perform their several duties, without either hurry or
neglect : it is also her indispensable duty, not only to see
that all the female servants perform their work in the most
perfect manner ; but that, in the discharge of it, they do not
waste any thing. As all the linen in constant use is com-
mitted to her charge, she should see that it is neatly mended
if torn ; and should take care that it is not heedlessly torn or
unnecessarily soiled : and before any more is given out, that
the different articles already used, have been pat in their
proper places. As under-servants are ever too ready to con-
sider coarse cloths, such a.s duste.s, &,c. of little value; no
more should be given them, unless they produce the remains
of the old ones, and sufficiently account for their being worn
out. As she will have the care of the stores for immediate
consumption, she should be sparing in the distribution of

B 2

4 MINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

them ; particularly groceries, soap, and candles : the former
are too often demanded for the purpose of entertaining
friends; and the latter, frequently for a worse purpose. She
should daily register the notes of the butcher, baker, fish-
monger, and ot ers ; and see that the articles specified in
those notes, are actually of the implied weight and quality.
As the housekeeper has more confidence placed in her than
any other servant, of course her responsibility is greater ; and
she cannot do better than consider herself as the faithful
steward of her master. Her bill of fare should contain a suf-
ficient variety ; and the different articles selected snould, when
dressed, be so placed upon the table, as to accord with each
other, thereby forming a picture, that, by pleasing the eye,
may excite an appetite.

The Cook

WILL be immediately under the inspection of the house-
keeper ; but it is her province to dress the meat according to
the modern costume, and afterwards to dish it up in an ele-
gant manner. The larder must be particularly attended to,
for on its neatness, the keeping of the meat, poultry, &c. will
very much depend. The dressers, shelves, &c. must be well
scoured, and the floor washed with plenty of cold water, and
thoroughly mopped dry : for want of this precaution, musti-
ness is produced. All butcher's meat should be sent in before
sun-rise ; but as it is almost impossible to prevent flies from
blowing it, the whole should be carefully looked over, and
wiped clean and dry. All meat intended to be eaten cold,
shouloVbe rather over-done in summer ; for the gravy makes
it spoil : roasted meat must be sprinkled with salt before taken
from the fire. Cold meat of every kind, should be changed
morning and evening into clean and dry dishes. Stews,
sauces, and soups, should be boiled every second day at least
in summer, to prevent fermentation. Lardings returned
whole to the kitchen, should be covered with the sheets of
bacon that covered them before they were taken out of the
braise; and then put again into the same braise. Tenderones
of lamb and veal, ox rumps, beef or veal olives, roulards of
mutton or veal, rump of beef, and every other thing done in
braises, should be carefully attended to ; as they may be re-
peatedly served at table, with the same elegance as at first.
Remember never to overstock the larder. For the care of
different joints, poultry, c. See Marketing.

Very much will depend upon the care and economy of the
cook : by good management, she may be the means of saving
a large sum in the article of coals, bv carefully reserving the
cinders for the laundry. As much very valuable china is an-

HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 5

nually broken, for want of a little care; she will do well to
change ail the best dishes for common ones, as soon as the
dinner is sent from the dining-room. Respecting her culi-
n.i rv vessel, i hey should be je\er kept with the greatest clean-
liness ; and fresh tinned whenever they may want it. Tin
meat-covers are soon spoiled if not wiped dry after being
u.>eJ, and they may be restored to their Conner polish without
injurv, bv usi;tg the following preparation : take fine whiting,
ba-elv moistened with olive oil ; with this and a piece of soft
leather rub the covers; wipe clean with a soft linen, and
lastly, sprinkle over them some dr} T whiting in fine po\vder,
and polish with leather.

The Housemaid

WILL also be particularly under the inspection of the house-
keeper; but still a great deal will depend upon her own
cleanliness and exertions : the beds not in use should be
every day aired by shaking t^em, and the blankets nicely
folded and placed between the bed and mattress: the curtains
and hangings should be slightly srmken and dusted with a
proper brush, and replaced in their former order. Before
sweeping the rooms, t l >ey should be sprinkled with tea-leaves,
and the carpets swept with a proper whisk-brush. In towns,
carpets are very liable to be soiled by smoke, dust, &c. in
which case, the following application, published by the Society
for the encouragement of Arts, c. will be invariably found
to remove the dirt, c. For every gallon of w.,ter intended
to be used, take eight raw potatoes, grate them into fine
pulp, mix them with the water, and wash the carpet slightly
with a large spunge : this mixture will not only clean, but
restore the colour of carpets to their former beauty.

For removing grease-spots on the boards Apply a few drops
of oil of turpentine, rubbing it in with the finger: this will
dissolve the grease, and make it mix with the soap when
washed.

For preventing steel and iron from rusting. Take mutton
suet, melt and strain it; warm the steel, or iron; nib it with
the melted suet, and sprinkle finely powdered hot lime over
it: or take two pounds of unsalted hogslard, melt it, and whilst
warm, add as much black lead as will thicken it; rub this over
the iron or steel.

For taking: rust out of polished grates, fenders, &V. Apply
olive oil, letting it remain on the spot for forty-eight hours :
powder some hot or unslackecl lime, sprinkle it over the place,
and rub till the rust disappear.

For taking the black or burnt parts out of polished steel bar*.
Boil in two- quarts of water, one pound of soft soap, till re-

6 HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

duced to one quart: this when cold will form a jelly; of
which take three spoonsful, and mix to the thickness of paste
by adding powdered rmery : rub the bars with some of this
mixture put on a piece of clean cloth, and polish with glasi
paper.

For blacking stoves. -Take blacklead one pound, table
beer one pint, soft soap about the size of a wa! iut ; boil till
the soap is dissolved : with this mixture brush over the stove,
and when dry, polish with a common stove brush. Or take
blacklead one pound, water a pint and a half, common gum
one ounce: boil till the gum is dissolved, and apply it as in
the former c.ise.

For blacking stone chimney-pieces. Grind together oil var-
nish and lamp black, add spirits of turpentine, till reduced to
the thickness of paint. Having previously well cleaned the
stone, and dried it, apply a coat of this varnish with a fine
brush, and when quite dry a second coat. This varnish is
usually sold under the name of Brunswick blacking.

For taking iron-moulds cut of marble. Drop a verv small
quantity of weak oil of vitriol on the spots, rub with a linen
rag, and they will disappt-ar: but observe immediately to
wash the part with soap and water. As marble will in time
become yellow, the following preparation will both- remove
it and also fresh polish it: mix unslacked lime with strong
soap-ley, as thick as batter; lay it on with a brush, and in
two months time wash it off with a strong lather of soap and
water: the polish may be heightened by well rubbing with a
plean hard brush.

The Laundiymaid

SHOULD always use the cinders reserved for her use by the
cook, as they will answer equally well with coals; arid when
burnt either in the ironing stove or under the copper, will
give an intense heat. She will find that by soaking the
clothes over night in soft water, that they will wash much
more easily ; especially if the parts most soiled be slightly
rubbed with soap. The best laundresses use a ley made by
pouring water upon wood-ashes, and straining through an
hair-cloth this ley not only saves soap, but gives a beautiful
whiteness to the linen. In washing flannels, be careful never
to pour boiling water upon them, as it will thicken them ;
but take the flannels, and put them in scalding water, which
will keep them thin. Ink-stains, fruit-stains, and iron-mould,
are easily removed by using the essential salt of lemons.
Spirit ot salt may be also used for the same purpose ; but if
the part -is not immediately washed with soap and water, the
texture of the linen may be hurt by it. In getting up fine-

HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 7

things, the clear-starchers use gum-water ; but as gum-arabic
is very dear, its use should be confined to the finest articles.

The Butler

HAS, in most situations, nearly as great responsibility as the
housekeeper; of course, like her, he has the superintendence
of the footmen, and he should be particularly careful that
the table, sideboard, &c. are well cleaned and rubbed ; that
the glasses and plate are brilliant and unsullied ; and that
both the disposition of the table and sideboard are neat and
elegant. For cleaning plate, there is not any thing equal to
rouge, the substance used for that purpose by the silversmiths
and their polishers : it may be had at Fenn's, in Newgate
Street ; and at Knight's, in Forster Lane. In using it, a very
small quantity may either be wetted with water, and slightly
rubbed over the plate with a soft spunge, and afterwards po-
lished with soft leather : or it may be mixed with olive oil,
and use the leather. The cellar should be ever kept with
the greatest neatness ; and it will be highly creditable to the
butler, if a regular cellar-book is kept; ty means of which,
his master will easily perceive the faithful disposal of every
bottle consumed. See Wines and Beer.

The Footman

WILL be under the control of the butler, and it will be
greatly to his credit if every thing be kept in the neatest
and best order. The decanters are apt to become furred, in
which case they may be effectually cleansed and restored to
their brilliancy, by scraping a raw potatoe into a pint of water :
with this, rinse them, aad wash it out with clean water. An
highly polished table and sideboard should be the foatman's
pride : to obtain which, the Speenhausan receipt will very
much contribute: take cold-drawn linsed oil, two quarts;
alkanet-root bruised, two ounces; rose-pink, one ounce : put
them together into a bottle, let them stand for a fortnight,
shaking the bottle three or four times a day. To use this
oil, the table must be first washed with warm vinegar, and
when dry, the oil rubbed on with a linen cloth ; in this state
it should remain at least six hours, when it may be wiped off
.with linen, and then polished with a linen cloth. Observe,
you must never use a woollen cloth. At every other clean-
ing, it will be sufficient to use the oily cloth, and polish with
a dry one. Tables rubbed with oil, acquire in time a polish
unattainable by any other means: the common tables at
Speen Hill ?.re a proof of this. But as this oil requires .a
constant and continued use, it may not perhaps, on the whole,
be as well liked as the following: take four ounces of bees-
wax, and half an ounce of white rosin, melt them in one ounce
.of olive oil, adding rose-pink to make it of' a beautiful colour;

8 MINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

to this composition add as much spirit of turpentine as will
make it of the thickness of honey. Rub it on the table with
a piece of linen cloth, and polish \\ith a clean cloth. The
turpentine will fly off, consequently a little more must be
added, as it grows too tliick. Nothing will more effectually
clean coats, &c. after they have been first beaten and brushed,
than by sprinkling them with a little dry sand, and brushing
it o.'Y with the grain of the cloth. Grease spots may be re-
moved by scraping upon them a little French chalk, rubbing
it in well with the finger, and afterwards brushing it off: or
by dropping a few drops of spirit of turpentine upon it, and
rubbing it in well. The best blacking for shoes, r -itdc by
dissolving the improved blacking-cake in water, wh cii i. ^old
by Bailey, in Cockspur Street. And the following is an inva-
luable recipe for cleaning boot -tops : take half an ounce of
oil of vitriol, two ounces of water, and nvx i ; ndi.;>iiy ;n a
strong earthen pot ; (if not mixed gradually w ith the '. ater,
it will heat too much and crack the p^t). With uiis liquid
wash the boot-tops, and wipe them dry. Huve ready the
white of one egg weli beaten in tlie juice of a lemon, and
when well mixed, add half a pint of mi!k. With this mix'ure,
wash over the boot-tops : when dry, wash then. ith n,nk and
water, wipe them quite dry, and brush them with a ciean hard
brush.

The Coachman

GFNERALLY is entrusted by his master to purchase the hay,
oats, beans, and straw : in the choice of all these he cannot be
too particular, as his horses cannot thrive upon bad coin or
hay, nor will straw of a bad quality last nearly as long as good.
In case of the illness of his horses, he should not consult
every ignorant farrier, nor undertake the cure of them him.
self. It will be less expense to take the advice of a veteri-
nary surgeon. The varnish of carriages becomes, after a little
use, rather dull, even by the best care : in this case it may be
much heightened by using a little fine tripoli, moistened wilh
olive oil, and put upon soft leather : with this let the carriage
be rubbed and then wiped off, and polish off with olive oil
and a clean leather. The harness should be oiled in the in-
side, and blacked on the outside : by this means it will always
look well, and never crack: the plate maybe cleaned with;*
fine whiting.

The Groom

MAY always easily clean his stirrups, bits, &c. by rubbing
them over-night with olive oil, and by sprinkling hot lime on
them in the morning : rub this off with a soft leather. The
saddle may be cleaned by the composition nlready directed
for boot-tops.

CHAPTER 1.

MARKETING.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE PROPER CHOICE OF DIFFERENT
KINDS OF PROVISIONS.

IN the choice of ox-beef, observe, that, if the meat is
young, it will have a fine smooth open grain, of a pleasing
carnation reel, and feel tender ; the fat must be rather white
than yellow ; for when it is quite yellow, the meat is seldom
good ; the suet must be perfectly white. The grain of cow-
beef is closer, the fat whiter than that of ox-beef, but the
lean has not so bright a red. The grain of bull-beef is still
closer, the fat hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red, and
has a stronger smell than either cow or ox-beef.

THE JOINTS IN THE OX ARE I

Sirloin - -

Rump - - - - -

Edge-bone -

Buttock -

Mouse ditto - -

Veiny-piece -

Thick-flank -

Thin, ditto

Leg -

Fore-rib: containing five ribs -

"Middle-rib: containing four ribs

Chuck : containing three ribs

Leg-of-mutton-piece,or shoulder 1 3

Brisket -

Clod - - ,-

Neck or sticking-piece -

Shin

Cheek -

- 14

- 15

- 16

- 17

- 18

CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.

Sirloin. Tn this the flies are apt to blow under the loose
side of the fat : wipe clean and dry, sprinkle the fat with
salt; take out the pipe running along the chine-bone, and
rub the place and the bone with salt ; take out the kernel at

10

MARKETING.

the thick end, fill the hole with salt ; and take out the pith,
and rub the place with salt.

Rump. Take out the kernel left in the fat, filling the hole
with salt ; and sprinkle salt slightly over the whole.

Ribs. Cutoff the piece of skirt; nub the chine-bone, the
inside of the ribs, and the tops of the ribs with salt. The
above, should be all hung up.

Hound or buttock. Take out the kernel called the Pope's
eye, and the other in thick fat. Without this precaution, no
quantity of salt-will preserve it in summer.

Thick-flank. Take out the kernel in the middle of the fat.

Edge or aitch-bone. Take out the- kernel where the rump
is cut off.

Brisket. Joint the bones, to let in the salt.

Mutton.

IF you squeeze young mutton with your fingers, it will feel
very tender; but if it be old, it will feel hard and continue
wrinkled, and the fat will be fibrous and clammy. The grain
of ram mutton is close, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat
is spongy and yellow. The flesh of ewe mutton is paler than
that of the wether, and the grain is closer. Most people give
the preference to short-shanked mutton.

THE JOINTS IN THE SHEEP ARE:

Leg

Loin, best end

Ditto, chump ditto

Neck, best ditto

Ditto, scrag ditto

Shoulder -

Breast -

Chine, is two loins.

Saddle, is two necks.

CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.

Leg. Take out the kernel from the fat of the upper part ;
fill ttie hole with salt, and sprinkle salt slightly over the whole
in summer.

Shoulder. Rub the inside well with salt.

Chine. Take out the kernel near the tail, rub the place

MARKETING.

11

with salt; take out the kidney-fat quite clean, cut the pipe
running along the back-bone, and rub the inside with salt.

Neck. Wipe quite dry with a cloth; trim the scrag;
sprinkle the chine-bone and the inside of the ribs with salt.

Breast. Cut out the skirt, and sprinkle both sides with
salt. These joints are all to be hung, and these directions are
chiefly applicable to summer.

Lamb.

THE head of a lamb is good, if the eyes are bright and
plump; but if they are sunk and wrinkled, it is stale. If the
vein in the neck of the fore-quarter appear of a fine blue, it
is fresh ; but if it be green or yellow, you may be sure it is
stale. In the hind quarter, if there be a faint disagreeable
smell near the kidney, or if the knuckle is very limber, it is
not good.

Lamb is generally cut in quarters if divided into joints,
observe the same rules as those for mutton.

Veal.

THE Mesh of a co\v-calf is whiter than that of a bull, but
the flesh is not so firm ; the fillet of the former is generally
preferred, on account of the udder; if the head is fresh, the
eyes will be plump; but if stale, they will be sunk and wrink-
led. If the vein in the shoulder is not of a bright red, the meat
is not fresh : and if there are any green or yellow spots in it, it
is very bad. A good neck an:J breast will be white and dry;
but if they are clammy, and look green or yellow at the upper
end, they are stale. The kidney is the soonest apt to taint in
the loin, and if it is stale, it will be soft and slimy. .A leg is
good if it be firm and white ; but bad if it is limber, and the
flesh flabby, with green or yellow spots.

THE JOINTS- IN A CALF ARE C

Loin, best end -
Ditto, chump ditto
Filler -

Hind-knuckle -

Fore-kn"ck!e -
Neck, best end - -
Ditto, scrag ditto
Blade-bone . - -
Breast, best end
Ditto, brisket ditto - -

12

MARKETING.

CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.

Leg. Wipe the udder perfectly drv : take out the skewer
which fastens down the udder, a- d rub t.Mj hole with s<ilt ;
and take out the kernel from the tincl; fat.

Loin. Cut out the pipe running along the chine-bone ;
wipe dry with a do'h; examine the kidney of tiie loose side,
wipe dry; and having taken out the kernel in the inside of
the chump, sprinkle the whole over slightlv with salt.

Neck. Cut out the pipe running along the chine-bo n e ;
wipe the chine and the inside of the ribs very dry. and slightly
sprinkle with salt.

Breast. Cut off the skirt on the inside, rub dry, and
sprinkle with salt.

Pork.

MEASLY pork is very dangerous to eat ; but this state of it
is eas-iy discovered, by the tat being full of little kernels. If
it is young the lean will break on beiug pinched, and the skin
will dent, by nipping it with the fingers: the fat, like lard,
will be soft and pulpy. If the rind is thick, rough, and can-
not be nipped with the fingers, it is old. It the flesh is cool
and smooth, it is fresh ; but if it is clammy, it is tainted ; and,
in this case, the knuckle part will always be the worst. Ob-
serve, a thin rind is always best.

THE JOINTS IN A PIG ARE :

Theaparerib - -
Hand - -
Beily or spring -
Fore-loin
Hind-loin
Leg -

Pork intended for roasting, should be always previously
sprinkled with salt, as it eats with much more relish.

Hams.

THOSE are the best which have the shortest shank. If you
put a knife under the bone of a ham, and if it come out clean,

MARKETING.

13

and smell well, it is good ; but if it is danbed and smeared,
and has a disagreeable smell, be sure not to buy it.

Bacon.

IF bacon is good, the fat will feel oilv, and look white, and
the lean will be of a good colour; and SUCK close to the bone ;
but it is, or will be rusty very soon, if ri ere are anv yeilow
streaks in the lean. The rind of y oung bacon is Always thin j
but thick, if old.

Brawn.

THE rind of old brawn is thick and hard ; but young, if
moderate. 7'he rind and fat of barrow and sow brawn are
very tender.

Venison.

THE fat of venison must, in a great measure, determine
your choice of it. If the fat is thick, bright, and dear, the
clefts smooth and close, it is young ; but a very wide tough
cleft, shows it is old. Venison will first change at the
haunches and shoulders : run in a knife, and you will judge
of its newness or staleness, by its sweet or rank smell. If it is
tainted, it will look greenish or inclining to be very black.

THE JOINTS IN A DEER ARE :

Haunch
Neck -
Shoulder
Breast -

Rub the different joints till perfectly dry; wipe over with
a fresh dry cloth ; and sprinkle over the whole, a composition
of three parts of pepper and one of salt. Observe to take
the kernel out of the haunch, as already directed for mutton.

Turkeys.

IF acock turkey is young-, it will have a smooth black leg,
with a short spur; the eyes will be full and bright, and the
feet limber and moist ; but you must carefully observe, that the
spurs are not cut or scraped to deceive you. When a turkey
is stale, the feet are dry and the eyes sunk. The same rule

14 MARKETING.

will determine whether a hen-turkey be fresh or stale, young
or old; with this difference, that if old, her legs will be rough
and red ; if with egg, the vent will be soft and open ; but if
she have no eggs, the vent will be hard.

Cocks and Hens.

THE spurs of a young cock are short ; -but the same pre-
caution will be as necessary here, in that point, as just ob-
served in Ihe choice of turkeys. Their vents will be open, if
stale ; but close and hard, if fresh. Hens are always best
when full of eggs, and just before they begin to lay. The
combs and legs of an old hen are rough ; but smooth when
young. The comb of a good capon is very pale, its breast is
peculiarly fat, and it has a thick belly, and a large rump.

Geese. '

A YELLOW bill and feet, with but few hairs upon them, are
the mark of a young goose, but these are red when old. The
feet will be limber, if fresh, but stiff and dry if old. Green
geese are in season from May or June, till they are three
months old. A stubble goose will be good till five or six
months old, and should be picked dry; but green geese
should be scalded. The same rules will hold good for wild
geese, with respect to their being young or old.

Ducks.

THE legs of a fresh-killed duck are limber ; and if it is fat,
its belly wiil be hard and thick. The feet of a stale duck are
dry and stiff. The feet of a tame duck are inclining to a
duSlcy yellow, and are thick. The feet of a wild duck are
smaller than a tame one, and are of a reddish colour. Ducks
must be picked dry ; but ducklings should be scalded.

Pheasants.

THESE very beautiful birds are of the English cock and.
hen kind, and are of a fine flavour. The cock has spurs,
which the hen has not, and the hen is most valued when with
egg. The spurs of a young cock pheasant are short and
blunt, or round ; but if old, they are long and sharp. If the
vent of the hen be open and green, she is stale ; and when
rubbed hard with the finger, the skin will peel : if with egg,
the vent will be soft.

Woodcocks.

A WOODCOCK is a bird of passage, and is found with us only
in the winter. They are best about a fortnight or three week

MARKETING. 15

after their first appearance, when they have rested after their
Jong passage over the ocean. If fat, they will feel firm and
thick, which is a proof of their good condition. Their vent
will be also thick and hard, and a vein of fat will run by the
side of the breast ; but a lean one will feel thin in the vent.
If newly killed, its feet will be limber, and the head and
throat clean ; but the contrary, if stale.

Partridges.

AUTUMN is the season for partridges, when, if young, the
legs will be yellowish, and the bill of a dark colour. If they
are fresh, the vent will be firm ; but if stale, it will look green-
ish, and the skin will peel when rubbed with the finger. If
old, the bill will be. white, and the legs blue.

Bustards.

THE same rules given for the choice of the turkey, will
hold good with respect to this curious bird.

Pigeons.

THESE birds are full and fat at the vent, and limber-footed,
when new ; but if the toes are harsh, the vent loose, open,
and green, they are stale. If old, their legs will be large and
red. The tame pigeon is preferable to the wild, and should
be large in the body, fat and tender ; but the wild pigeon is
not so fat. Wood pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but
in other respects like them. The same rules will hold good
in the choice of the plover, fieldfare, thrush, lark, black-
bird, &c.

Hares.

BOTH the age and freshness of a hare are to be considered
in the choice of it. When old, the claws are blunt and rug-
ged, the ears dry and tough, and the cleft wide and large;
but on the contrary, if the claws are smooth and sharp, the
ears tear easily, and the cleft in the lip is not much spread, it
is young. The body will be stiff, and the flesh pale, if newly
killed ; but if the flesh is turning black, and the body limber,
it is stale; though hares are not always considered as the worse
for being kept till they smell a little. The principal distinc-
tion between a hare and a leveret, is, that the leveret should
have a knob, or small bone, near the foot, on its foreleg, which
a hare has not.

Rabbits.

THE claws of an old rabbit are very rough and long, and
grey hairs are intermixed with the wool ; but the wool and

16 MARKETING.

claws are smooth, when young. If stale, it will be limber, and
the flesh will look bluish, with a kinJ of slime upon it; but it
will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry, if fresh.

fish.

THE general rules for discovering whether fish a; ';esh or
stale, are by observing the colour of their gills, whic hould
be of a lively red ; whether they are hard or easy to be open-
ed, the standing out or sinking in of their eyes, the r ^ ns
being st'ff or limber, or by smelling to their gills F sii taken
in running water are always better than those taken from
ponds.

Turbot.

IF a turbot is g "od, it will be thick and plump, and the
belly of a yellowish white; but they are not good, if they
appear thin and bluish. Turbot are in season the greater
part of the summer, and are generally caught in the German
and British Ocean.

Soles.

GOOD soles are thick and firm, and the belly of a fine
cream-colour ; but they are not good, if they are flabby,
or incline to a bluish white. Midsummer is their principal
season.

Lobsters.

IF^ lobster is fresh, the tail will be stiff', and pull up with
a spring; but if stale, the tail will be flabby, and have no
spring in it. This rule, however, concerns- lobsters that are
boiled ; and it is much better to buy them alive, and boil
them yourself, taking cave that they are not spent by too long
keeping. If they have not been long taken, the claws will
have a quick and strong motion upon squeezing the eyes,
and the heaviest are esteemed the best. '\ he cock-lobster is
known by the narrow back part of his tail. The two upper-
most fins within his tail arestiflFand hard ; but those of the
hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, though gene-
rally smaller than the female, has the higher flavour, the flesh
firmer, and the body of a redder colour, when boiled.

Sturgeon.

THE flesh of a good sturgeon is very white, with a few
blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, good-coloured,
and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue ; for when
these are brown or yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the

MARKETING. If

fish is bad. It has a pleasant smell when good, but a very
disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm without
crumbling. The females are as full of roe as our carp, which
is taken out and spread upon a table, beat flat, and sprinkled
with salt ; it is then dried in the air and sun, and afterwards
in ovens: it should be of a reddish brown colour, and
very dry. This is called caviare, and is eaten with oil and
vinegar.

Cod.

A COD should be very thick at the neck, the flesh very white
and firm, and of a bright clear colour, and the gills red.
When they are flabby, they are not good. They are in
season from Christmas to Lady-day.

Skate.

THIS fish should be very' white and thick. When they
are too fresh, they eat tough ; and if stale, they have a very
disagreeable smell : so that some judgment is required to dress
them in proper time.

Herrings.

THE gills of a fresh herring are of a fine red, their eyes
full, and the whole fish stiff and very bright ; but if the gills
are of a faint colour, the fish limber and wrinkled, they are
bad. The goodness of pickled herrings is known by their
being fat, fleshy, and white. Good red herrings are large,
firm, and dry. They should be full of roe or milt, and the
outside of them of a fine yellow.

* Trout.

ALL the kinds of this fine fresh-water fish are excellent :
but the best are those that are red and yellow. The female
are most in esteem, and are known by having a smaller head
and deeper body than the male. They are high in season
the latter end of June ; and their freshness may be known by
the rule we have already laid down for that purpose, con-
cerning other fish.

Tench.

THIS is also a fresh-water fish, and is in season in July,
August, and September. This fish should be dressed alive ;
but if they be dead, examine their gills, which should be red,
and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body firm and
stiff 7 , if fresh. Some are covered with a slimy matter, which,
if clear and bright, is a good sign.

c

18 MARKETING.

Salmon.

THE flesh of salmon, when new, is of a fine red, and par-
ticularly so at the gills ; the scales should be bright, and the
fish very stiff. The spring is the season for this fish ; but
whether that caught in the Thames, or the Severn, be best, is
a matter of some dispute.

Smelts.

WHEN perfectly fresh they are of a fine silver hue,
very firm, and have an agreeable smell, resembling that of a
cucumber.

Eels.

THE Thames silver eel is generally the most esteemed ;
and the worst are those brought by the Dutch, and sold at
Billingsgate market. They should be dressed alive ; and they
are always in season? except during the hot summer months.

Flounders.

THIS fish is found in the sea as well as rivers, and should
be dressed alive. They are in season from January to March,
and from July to September. When fresh, they are stiff',
their eyes bright and full, and their bodies thick.

Oysters.

THE Colchester, Pyfleet, and Milford oysters, are esteemed
the best: though the native Milton are reckoned very good,
being the fattest and whitest. They are known to be alive
and vigorous when they close fast upon the knife, and let go
as soon as they are wounded in the body.

Prawns and Shrimps.

THEY have an excellent smell when in perfection ; are firm
and stiff, and their tails turn stiffly inwards. Their colour is
very bright, when fresh; but when stale, their tails grow
Umber, the brightness of their colour goes off, and they be-
come pale and clammy.

Butter.

IN buying of butter, you must not trust to the taste the
seller gives you, lest he give you a taste of one lump, and sell
you another. In choosing salt butter, trust rather to your
smell than taste, by putting a knife into it, anil applying it to
your nose. If the butter be in a cask, have it unhooped, and
thrust in your knife, between the staves, into the middle of
it ; for the top of the cask is sometimes better butter than the
middle, owing to artful package.

TRUSSING. 19

Cheese.

OBSERVE the coat of your cheese before you purchase it;
for if it be old, with a rough and ragged coat, or dry at top,
you may expect to find little worms or mites in it. If it is
moist, spongy, or full of holes, it will give reason to suspect
that it is maggoty. Whenever you perceive any perished
places on the outside, be sure to probe to the bottom of
them ; for, though the hole in the coat may be but small, the
perished part within may be considerable.

Eggs.

To judge properly of an egg, put the greater end to your
tongue, and if it feel warm it is new ; but if cold, it is stale ;
and according to the degree of heat or cold there is in the egg,
you will judge of its staleness or newness. AnotrTer method
is, hold it up against the sun or candle, and if the yolk appear
round and the white clear and fair, it is a mark of goodness ;
but if the yolk be broken, and the white cloudy or muddy,
the egg is a bad one. Some people, in order to try the good-
ness of an egg, put it into a pan of Cold water : the fresher it
is, the sooner it will sink to the bottom ; but if it be addled or
rotten, it will swim on the surface of the water. The best
method of preserving eggs is to keep them in meal or bran ;
though some place them in wood-ashes, with their small end
downwards. -When necessity obliges you to keep them for
any length of time, the best way will be to bury them in salt,
which will preserve them in almost any climate ; but the
sooner an egg is used, the better it will be.

CHAPTER II.
DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING.

PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.

HOUGH the London poulterers truss every thing before they
nd it home, yet it is absolutely necessary that every COOK

T.

send

should know how to perform this business properly, as it
frequently happens that families take their cooks with them
into the country, where they are obliged to draw and truss all
kinds of poultry and game themselves. Let them therefore
be careful to attend to this general rule ; take care that 'all the
stubs are perfectly removed ; and when they draw any kind

c 2

20 TRUSSING.

of poultry or game, they must be very particular not to break
the gall, because it will give the bird a bitter and disagree-
able flavour, which neither washing nor wiping will be able to
remove. We shall now proceed to particular rules.

Turkeys.

WHEN you have properly picked your turkey, break the
kg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings from the
thigh, for Vhich purpose you must put it on a hook fastened
against the wall. Cut off the neck close to the back ; but be
careful to leave the orop skin sufficiently long to turn over to
the back. Then proceed to take out the crop, and loosen
the liver and gut at the throat end with your middle finger.
Then cut off the vent, and take out the gut. With a crooked
sharp-pointed iron pull out the gizzard, and the liver will soon
follow. Be careful, however, not to break the gall. With a
wet cloth wipe out the inside perfectly clean. With a large
knife cut the breast-bone through on each side close to the
back, and draw the legs close to the crop. Then put a
cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone down with a rolU
ing-pin till it lies flat. If the turkey is to be trussed for boil-
ing cut the legs off; then put your middle finger into the in-
side, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron
of the turkey. Put a skewer in the joint of the wing and the
middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the
other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be put in the
pinions; but take care first to open the gizzard, and take out
the filth and the gall of the liver. Then turn the small end
of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the ends
of the legs to keep them in their places. If the turkey is to
be roasted, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the
wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through the
middle of the leg and body. On the other side put another
skewer in at the small part of the leg. Put it close on the
outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer through, and the
same on the other side. Put the liver and gizzard between the
pinions, and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then
put, close above the pinions, another skewer through the
body of the turkey.

TRUSSING. 2 1

Turkey polts must be trussed in the following manner :
Take the neck from the head and body, but do not remove
the neck skin. They are drawn in the same manner as a
turkey. Put a skewer through the joint of the pinion, tuck
the legs close, run the skewer through the middle of the leg,
through the body, and so on the other side. Cut off the un-
der part of the bill, twist the skin of the neck round, and put
the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill end for-
wards. Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, and the
legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each side.
Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. It is
very common to lard them on the breast. The liver and
gizzard may or may not be used, as you like.

Geese.

HAVING picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut the feet
off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut
off the neck close to the back ; but leave the skin of the neck
long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and
tie a knot at the end. With your middle finger loosen the
liver and other matters at the breast end, and cut it open be-
tween the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw out all
the entrails, excepting the soal. Wipe it out clean with a wet
cloth, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. Put a
skewer into the wing, and draw the legs close up. Put the
skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body,
and the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the
small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it
through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off the end
of the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of
the rump, as it holds the seasoning much better by
means.

22 TRUSSING.

Ducks.

DUCKS and Geese are trussed in the same manner, ex-
cepting that the feet are left on the ducks, and are turned
close to the legs.

Fowls.

THEY must first be picked very clean, and the neck cut off
close to the back. Then take out the crop, and with your
middle finger loosen the liver and other matters. Cut off the
vent, draw it clean, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-
pin. If your fowl is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet,
and tuck them down close to the leg. Put your finger into the
inside, and raise the skin of the legs ; then cut a hole in the
top of the skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in the
first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg close to
it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through
the body. Do the same on the other side. Having opened
the gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the liver.
Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinions, and turn the point
on the back. Remember to tie a string over the tops of the
legs, to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl is to be
roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and
bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer through
the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same
on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg,
and through the sidesman. Do the same on the other side.
Put another skewer through the skin of the feet. You must
not forget that the nails are to be cut off.

TRUSSING. 23

Chickens.

THESE must be picked and drawn in the same manner as
fowls. If the chickens are to be boiled, cut off the nails,
give the sinews a nick on each side of the joint, put the feet
in at the vent, and then put in the rump. Draw the skin tight
over the legs, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and
bring the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer through
the middle of the legs, and through the body, and do the same
on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and take out the gall
in the liver ; put them into the pinions, and turn the points
on the back. If your chickens are to be roasted, cut off the
feet, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinions, and bring
the middle of the leg close. Run the skewer through the
middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same on
the other side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put
the legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the
skewer through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put
them in the pinions, turn the points on the back and over
the neck, and pull the breast skin.

Wild Fowl.

THE directions we are giving will answer for all kinds of
wild fowl in general. Having picked them clean, cut off the
neck close to the back, and with your middle finger loosen
the liver and guts next the breast. Cut off the pinions at the
first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and
draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers
on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the feet close to the
legs. Put a skewer into the pinions, pull the legs close to
the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and
the other pinion. First cut off the vent, and then put the
rump through it.

Pigeons.

You must first pick them, and cut off the neck close to the
back. Then take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out

24 TRUSSING.

the guts and gizzard, but leave in the liver, for a pigeon has no
gall. If your pigeons are to be roasted, cut off the toes, cut
a slit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. Draw
the leg tight lo the pinion, put a skewer through the pinions,
legs, and body, and with the handle of.a knife break the breast
flat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, and turn
the point on the back. If you intend to make a pie of them,
you must cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick
them in the sides close to the pinions. If they are to be
stewed or boiled, they must be done in the same manner.

Woodcocks and Sniper.

THESE birds are very tender to pick, especially if they be
not quite fresh. They must therefore be handled as little as
possible, for even the heat of the hand will sometimes pull
off the skin, when the beauty of your bird will be destroyed.
When you have picked them clean, cut the pinions off at the
first joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone
flat. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together
at the joints. Put the thighs close to the pinions, put a skewer
into the pinion, and run it through the thighs, body, and the
other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes and
put the head on the point of the skewer with the bill close to
the breast. Woodcocks, snipes, or plovers, are trussed in the
same nrtgpfiner, but must never be drawn.
'-

Larks, Wheat-ears, Kc.

WHRN you have picked them clean, cut off their heads,
and the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat
with the handle of a knife, turn the feet close to the legs, and
put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a
skewer through the middle of the bodies of as many as you
mean to dress. They must be tied on the spit.

Pheasants and Partridges.

PICK them very clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck,
take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut next the breast

TRUSSING. 25

with your fore-finger, then cut off the vent and draw them.
Cut oft the pinion at the first joint, and wipe out the inside
with the pinion you have cut off; for you never need pick
these birds beyond U^e first joint of the pinion. With a roll-
ing-pin beat the breast-bone flat, put a skewer in the pinion,
and bring the middle of the legs close. Then run the skewer
through the legs, body, and the other pinion; bring the head,
and put it on the end of the skewer, the bill fronting the breast.
Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs close
on each side the apron, and then run the skewer through all.
You must leave the beautiful feathers on the head of the cock
pheasant, and put paper to prevent the bad effects of the fire.
You must also save the long feathers in the tajl to stick in the
rump when roasted. In the same manner are trussed all kinds
of moor-game. If they are to be boiled, put the legs in the
manner as in trussing a fowl for boiling.

Hares.

.HAVING cut off the four legs at the first joint, raise the skin

of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail

whole, draw the skin over the hack, and slip out the fore legs.

Cut the skin off the neck and head; but take care to leave the

ears on, and mind to skin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c.

but be sure to take the gut out of the vent. Cut the sinews

that lie under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore legs,

put a skewer through the hind leg, then through the foreleg

under the joint, run it through the body, and do the same on

lie other side. Put another skewer through the thick part of

te hind legs and body, put the head between the shoulders,

ard run a skewer through to keep it in its place. Pur askewer

inachear to make them stand erect, and tie a string round

the middle of the body over the legs to keep them in their

pla<. You may truss a young fawn in the same manner,

only-mind to cut off the ears.

26 BOILING.

Rabbits.

RABBITS are to be cased ih the same manner as hares, only
observe to cut off the ears close to the head. Cut the vent
open, and slit the legs about an inch upon each side the rump.
Make the hind legs Jie flat, and bring the ends to the fore legs.
Put a skewer in the hind leg, then in the fore leg and through
the body. Bring the head round, and put it on the skewer.
If you want to roast two together, truss them at full length,
with six skewers run through them both, so that they may be
properly fastened upon the spit.

CHAPTER III.

_

BOILING.

PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.

-TN FATNESS being a most material requisition in a kitchen, the
cook should be particularly cautious to keep all the utensils
perfectly clean, and the pots and saucepans properly tinned.
In boiling any kind of meat, but particularly veal, much care
and nicety are required. Fill your pot with a sufficient quan-
tity of soft water; dust your veal well with fine flour, put it
into your pot, and set it over a large fire. It is" the custom
with some people to put in milk to make it white ; but this if
of no use, and perhaps better omitted ; for, if you use har
water, it will curdle the milk, give to the veal a brownisl-
yellow cast, and will often hang in lumps about it. Oatmal
will do the same thing ; but by dusting your veal, and puttng
it into the water when cold, it will prevent the foulness of the
water from hanging upon it. Take the scum off clear as.oon
as it begins to rise, and cover up the pot closely. Le- the
meat boil as slowly as possible, put in plenty of water, */hich
will make your veal rise and look plump. A cook Cannot
make a greater mistake, than to let any sort of meat b>il fast,
since it hardens the outside before it is warm within, fld con-
tributes to discolour it. Thus a leg of veal, of twelv--pounds
weight, will take three hours and a half boiling ; and the
slower it boils, the whiter and plumper it will be. Vhen mut-

BOILING. 21

ton or beef is the object of your cookery, be careful to dredge
them well with flour, before you put them into the pot of
cold water, and keep it covered ; but do not forget to take
off the scum as often as it rises. Mutton and beef do not re-
quire so much boiling; nor is it much minded if it be a little
under the mark; but lamb, pork, and veal, should be well
boiled, as they will otherwise be unwholesome. A leg of
pork will take half an hour more boiling than a leg of veal
of the same weight; but, in general, when you boil beef or
mutton, you may allow an hour for every four pounds weight.
To put in the meat when the water is cold, is allowed to be
the best method, as it thereby gets warm to the heart before
the outside gets hard. To boil a leg of lamb, of four pounds
\)'eight, you must allow an hour and a half.

Grass Lamb,

So many pounds as the joint weighs, so many quarters of
an hour it must boil. Serve it up with spinach, carrots, cab-
bage, or brocoli.

Calf's Head. '

WASH it very clean, soak it in water for two hours, then
parboil one half ; beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over
the head with a feather ; then strew over it a seasoning of pep-
per, salt, thyme, parsley chopped small, shred lemon-peel,
grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; stick bits of butter over it,
and send it to the oven. Boil the other half white in a cloth ;
put them both .into a dish Boil the brains in a bit of cloth,
with a very little parsley, and a leaf or two of sage. When
they are boiled, chop them small, and warm them in a sauce-
pan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Lay
the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the middle of a small dish,
and the brains round it ; have, in another dish, bacon or
pickled pork ; greens or carrots in another.

To boil Veal like Sturgeon.

TAKE a small delicate fillet of veal, from a cow-calf; take
off the skin, and then lard it all over, top, bottom, and sides
with some bacon and ham. Put into a stevvpan some slices of
bacon and veal ; strew over them some pepper, salt, and sweet
herbs; then put in the fillet with as-much broth as will just
cover them. Cover the stewpan very close, and let them sim-
mer very gently. When the veal is nearly enough, put in a
pint of white wine, an onion shred, a few cloves, and a little
mace ; put on the cover of the stewpau, set it over a stove,
and lay some charcoal upon it. When it has been kept hot
ten minutes, take it off the fire, and remove the charcoal. If
it is intended to be eaten hot, the following sauce must be

2S BOILING.

made while it is stewing. Set on a saucepan, with a glass of
gravy, a glass and a half of vinegar, half a lemon sliced, a
large onion sliced, and a good deal of pepper and salt. Boil
this a few minutes, and strain it. Lay the meat in a dish, and
pour the sauce over it. If it is to be eaten cold, it must not
be taken out of the liquor it is stewed in, but set by to cool
all night, and it will be exceedingly good.

Haunch or Neck of Venison.

HAVING let it lie in salt for a week, boil it in a cloth well
floured ; and allow a quarter of an hour's boiling for every
pound it weighs. For sauce, you may boil some cauliflowers^
pulled into Tittle sprigs, in milk and water, with some fine
white cabbage, and some turnips cut in dice, add some beet-
root cut into narrow pieces, about an inch and a half long, and
half an inch thick. Lay a sprig of cauliflower, and some of
the turnips mashed with some cream and a little butter. Let
your cabbage be boiled, and then beat in a saucepan with a
piece of butter and salt. Lay that next the cauliflower, then
the turnips, then the cabbage, and so on till the dish be full.
Place the beet-root here and there, according to your taste.
Have a little melted butter. This is a very fine dish, and
looks very prettily.

The haunch or neck, thus dressed, eats well the next day
hashed with gravy and sweet sauce.

Hams.

PUT your ham into a copper of cold water, and when it
boils, take care that it boils slowly. A ham of twenty pounds
will take four hours and a half boiling : and so in proportion
for one of a larger or smaller size. No soaking is required
for a green ham ; but an old and large ham will require six-
teen hours soaking in water, after which it should lie on damp
stones, sprinkled with water, two or three days to mellow.
Observe to keep the pot well skimmed while your ham is
boiling. When you take it up, pull oft' the skin as whole as
possible, and save it ; and strew on it raspings. When the ham
is brought from table, put the skin upon it, which will pre-
serve it moist.

Another way of dressing a Ham.

HAVING put the ham in a copper as before, add two pounds
of veal : after boiling a quarter of an hour, add celery, three
heads ; young onions one handful, or one old one ; thyme
and sweet-marjorum, a small quantity; t\yo turnips; winter
savory, one handful ; one or two eschalots ; and boil as be-
fore, till sufficiently tender. The broth will form a valuable
present to poor families.

BOILING. 29

Tongues.

STEEP the tongue in water all night, if it be a dry one ;
but if it be a pickled one, only wash it out of water. Boil it
three hour*.

Pickled Pork.

HAVING washed your pork, and scraped it clean, let it lie
half an hour in cold water, put it in when the water is cold,
and let it boil till the rind be tender.

Leg of Mutton with Cauliflowers and Spinach.

Cur a leg of mutton venison fashion, and boil it in a cloth :
boil three or four cauliflowers in milk and water, pull them into
sprigs, and stew them with butter, pepper, salt, and a little
milk ; stew some spinach in a saucepan; put to the spinach a
quarter of a pint of gravy, a piece of butter, and flower.
When it is enough, put the mutton in the middle* the spinach
round it, and the cauliflower over all. The butter the cauli-
flower was stewed in must be poured over it, and it must be
melted like a smooth cream.

Chickens.

PUT your chickens into scalding water, and as soon as the
feathers will slip off, take them out, otherwise they will make
the skin hard. After you have drawn them, lay them in skim-
med milk for two hours, and then truss them with their heads
on their wings. When you have properly singed, and dusted
them with flour, cover them close in cold water, and set them
over a slow fire. Having taken off the scum, and boiled them
slowly for five or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep
them close covered for half an hour in the water, which will
stew them sufficiently, and make them plump and white.
Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat ; then
drain them, and pour over them white sauce. See Sauces.

Fowls.

PLUCK your fowls, draw them at the rump, and cut off the
head, neck, and legs. Take out the breast-bone carefully;
and having skewered them with the ends of their legs in their
bodies, tie them round with a string. Singe and dust them
well with flour, put them into cold water, cover the kettle
close, and set it on the fire; but take it off as soon as the
scum begins to rise. Cover them close again, and let them
boil twenty minutes very slowly. Then take them off, and
'he heat of the water, in half an hour, will stew them suffi-

30 BOILING.

ciently. Then treat them in the same manner as above di-
rected for chickens, though melted butter is as often used as
white sauce.

Turkeys.

A TURKEY should not be fed the day before it is to be
killed ; but give it a spoonful of allegar just before you kill it,
and it will make it white and tender. Let it hang by the legs
four or five days after it is killed ; and when you have plucked
it, draw it at the rump. Cut off the legs, put the end of the
thighs into the body, and skewer them clown, and tic them
with a string. Having cut off the head and neck, grate a
penny Joaf, chop fine a score of oysters at least, shred a little
lemon-peel, and put in a sufficient quantity of salt, pepper,
and nutmeg. Mix these up into a light forcemeat, with a
quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, a spoonful or two of
cream, and stuff the craw with part of it ; the rest must be
made into balls, and boiled. Having sewed up the turkey,
and dredged it well with flour, put it into a kettle of cold
water ; cover it, and set it over the fire, and take the scum
off as soon as it begins to rise, and cover it again. It must
boil very slowly for half an hour; then take off your kettle,
and let it stand close covered. A middling turkey will take
half an hour to stand in the hot water, and the steam being-
confined will sufficiently stew it. When you dish it up, pour
a little of your oyster-sauce over it, lay your balls round it,
and serve it up, with the rest of your sauce in a boat. Bar-
berries and lemon will be a proper garnish. Set it over the
fire, and make it quite hot before you dish it up.

Geese.

SALT a goose a week, and boil it an hour. Serve it up with
onion sauce, or cabbage boiled or stewed in butter.

Another way.

SINGE a goose, and pour over it a quart of boiling milk.
Let it lie in it all night, then take it out, and dry it well with
a cloth. Cut small a large onion and some sage, put them into
the goose, sew it up at the neck and vent, hang it up by the
legs till next day, then put it into a pot of cold water, cover it
close, and let it boil softly for an hour. Onion sauce.

A smoked Goose.

TAKE a large stubble goose, take off the fat, dry it well
inside and " out with a cloth ; wash it all over with vinegar,
and then rub it over with some common salt, salt-petre, and

BOILING. 31

A quarter of a pound of coarse sugar. Rub the salts well in,
and let it lay a fortnight; then drain it well-, sew it up in a
cloth, and dry it in the middle of a chimney. It should hang
a month. Serve it up with onions, greens, &c.

Ducks.

As soon as you have scalded and drawn your ducks, let
them remain for a few minutes in warm water, then take them
out, put them into an earthen pan, and pour a pint of boiling
milk over them. Let them lie in it two or three hours/ and
when you take them out, dredge them well with flour; put
them into a copper of cold water, and cover them up. Hav-
ing boiled slowly about twenty minutes, take them out, and
smother them with onion sauce.

Pigeons.

SCALD and draw your pigeons, and take out the craAv as
clean as possible. Wash them in several waters ; and having
cut off their pinions, turn their legs under their wings; dredge
them, and put them into soft cold water. Having boiled them
very slowly a quarter of an hour, dish them up, and pour over
them good melted butter ; lay round them a little brocoli, and
^ervethem up with butter and parsley.

Rabbits.

CASE your rabbits ; skewer them with their heads straight
up, the fore legs brought down, and the hind legs straight.
Boil them at least three quarters of an hour, and then smother
them with onion sauce. Pull out the jaw bones, stick them in
their eyes, and serve them up with a sprig of myrtle or bar-
berries in their mouths. See Sauces.

Partridges.

BOIL them quick in a good deal of water, and fifteen mi-
nutes will be sufficient. For sauce take a quarter of a pint
of cream, and a piece of fresh butter as large as a walnut;
stir it one way till it be melted, and pour it into the dish.

Pheasants.

BOIL your pheasants in a good deal of water, and be sure
to keep it boiling. If it be a small one, half an hour will boil
it ; but if it be of the larger sort, you must allow it a quarter
of an hour longer. Let your sauce be celery stewed and
thickened with cream, and a little piece of butter rolled in
flour; and when your pheasant is done, pour your sauce over
it, and garnish with lemon. Observe so to stew your celery,
that the liquor may not be all wasted before you put in your
cream. Season with salt to your palate. See Sauces.

BOILING.

Snipes or Woodcocks.

YOUR snipes or woodcocks must be boiled in a good strong
broth $ or beef gravy, made thus: cut a pound of beef into little
^pieces, and pour on it two qiwts of water, with an onion,
a bundle of sweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, six cloves,
and some whole pepper. Cover it close, let it boil till about
half wasted, then strain it off, and put the gravy into a sauce-
pan, with salt enough to season it. Gut the birds clean, but
take care of the trails. Put them into the gravy, cover them
close, and ten minutes will boil them. In the meantime, cut
the trails and liver small, then take a little of the gravy the
snipes are boiling in, and stew the trails in it, with a blade of
mace. Fry some crumbs of bread crisp in some butter, of a
fine light brown. You must take about as much bread as the
inside of a stale roll, and rub them small into a clean cloth ;
and when they are done, let them stand ready in a plate before
the fire. When your snipes are ready, take about half a pint
of the liquor they were boiled in, and add to the trails two
spoonfuls of red wine, and a piece of butter as big as a wal-
nut, rolled in a little flour. Set them on the fire, shake your
saucepan often, (but do not stir it with a spoon) till the but-
ter is all melted. Then put in the crumbs, give the saucepan
a shake, take up your birds, lay them in the dish, and pour
your sauce over thetn. Lemon is a proper garnish.

Pig's Pettitoes.

LET the feet boil till they are pretty tender ; but take up
the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled ten minutes,
and shred them rather small. Take out the feet, and split
them ; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, and put in
yeur mincemeat, a little mace, a slice of lemon, a little salt,
and give it a gentle boil. Lay s'ppets round the dish, and
pour in your mincemeat, and in the centre the pettitoes.

Salmon.

HAVING scalded your salmon, take out the blood, wash the
fish well, and lay it on a fish plate. Put your water in a fish-
pan, with a little salt, and when it boils, put in your fish for
half a minute ; then take it out for a minute or two. Do this
four times, and then boil it till it be enough. When you take
it out of the fish-pan, set it over the water to drain, and cover
it with a cloth dipped in hot water. Frv a few slices of salmon,
or some small fish, and lay them round it. Scraped horse-
radish and parsley will be a proper garnish.

BOILING. 33

Soles.

THEY must be boiled in salt and water, and served up
"with anchovy sauce.

Soles the Dutch way.

TAKE a pair of large soles, skin, gut, and wash them very
clean in spring-water. Set them on in a stewpan with some
water and a little salt, and when it boils put in the soles, and
let them boil a few minutes. Then put on a saucepan with
some parsley cut small in a little water, and let it stand till
the water is all consumed. Then shake in some flour, and
put in a good piece of butter. Shake them well together till
all is well mixed, and then lay the soles, when they are drained,
upon a dish, and pour the sauce over them.

Trout.

BOIL them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece of horse-
radish. White sauce, anchovy saute, and plain butter.

Cod's Head.

FIRST take out the gills and the blood clean from the bone,
and wash the head well ; then rub over it a little salt, and a
glass of vinegar. Lay it on your fish-plate, and when your
water boils, throw in a large handful of salt, and a glass of
vinegar. Put in your fish, and boil it gently half an hour; but
if it be a large one, it will take three quarters. Take it up
very carefully, and see that no water or scum hang about the
fish. Garnish with a few smelts, or oysters fried, parsley,
scraped horse-radish, and lemon cut in slices, laid round it.
The roe and liver must be cut into slices, and laid close to it.

Salt Cod.

SOAK the fish six hours in soft water, then lay it on a stone
or brick floor for eight hours : if very salt, repeat the soaking
for six hours, otherwise three will be sufficient, and lay it
again on the floor for two. Brush it well with a moderately
hard brush, and boil gently in soft water. Serve in a napkin.
Thus dressed it will swell considerably, and come off in fine
flakes. Serve with egg sauce, mashed potatoes, and par-
snips.

Cod Sounds.

SOAK them in warm water half an hour, then scrape and
clean ; boil in milk and water till tender. Serre in a napkin,
with egg sauce.

D

34 BOILING.

Turbot.

YOUR turbot must be washed clean. Rub some vinegar
over it, which will add to its firmness, Put it on your fish-
plate, with the white side upwards, and pin a cloth over it
tight under your plate, which will prevent its breaking. Boil
it gently in hard water with plenty of salt and vinegar, and
skim it well, which will prevent the skin being discoloured ;
and when enough, take it up and drain it. Take the cloth
off carefully, and slip the fish on your dish ; garnish with
double parsley, lemon, and horse-radish. The proper sauces,
are lobster, anchovy, and plain butter. See Sauces.

Turbot boiled with Capers.

WASH and dry a small turbot, then take some thyme, pars-
ley, sweet herbs, and an onion sliced. Put them into a stew-
pan, then lay in the turbot, (the stewpan should be just big
enough to hold the fish.) Strew over the fish the same herbs
that are under it, with some chives and sweet basil. Then
pour in an equal quantity of white wine and white wine vine-
gar, till the fish is covered. Strew in a little bay salt, with
some whole pepper ; set the stewpan over a gentle stove, in-
creasing the heat by degrees, till it be enough. Then take it
off the fire, but do not take the turbot out. Set a saucepan on
the fire with a pound of butter, two anchovies split, boned and
washed, two large spoonfuls of capers cut small, some chives
whole, and a little pepper, salt, some nutmeg grated, a little
flour, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little water. Set the sauce-
pan over the stove, and keep shaking it round for some time,
and then set the turbot on to make it hot. Put it in a dish,
and pour some of the sauce over it ; lay some horse-radish
round it, and put what remains of the sauce in a boat.

Pike.

GUT and gill your pike, and having washed it well, make
a good forcemeat of chopped oysters, crumb of bread, a little
lemon-peel shred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs,
a few sweet herbs, and season them to your taste with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg. Mix all these well together, and put
them into the belly of the fish, which must be sewed up, and
skewered round. It must be boiled in hard water, with a
little salt, and a tea-cup full of vinegar put into the fish-pan.
Put in the fish as soon as the water boils, and if it be of the
middling size, half an hour's boiling will be sufficient. Serve
it up with oyster sauce in a boat. Use pickled barberries ami
parsley for a garnish.

BOILING. 35

Sturgeon.

LAY as large a piece as you please of your fish all night in
salt water, having first taken care to wash it clean. Take it
out the next morning, and rub it well with vinegar, and let it
lie in it two hours. Put your sturgeon into the fish-kettle
when full of boiling water, and throw in an ounce of bay-salt,
a few sprigs of sweet marjorum, and two large onions. When
you perceive the bones begin to leave the fish, take it up, and
strip off the skin ; then flour it well ; put it before the fire, and
having basted it with fresh butter, let it stand till it be of a
fine brown. When you dish it up, you must make use of the
white sauce. Crisp parsley and red pickles, for garnish. See
Sauces.

MackareL

WHEN you have gutted your mackarel, dry them carefully
in a clean cloth, and gently rub them over with vinegar. Lay
them on your fish-plate, and handle them as little as possible,
as they are liable to break. Put them into your fish-pan when
your water boils, put in a little salt, and let them boil gently
about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain
them well, and serve them with fennel and parsley sauces.
Your fish must be dished up with their tails in the middle,
;>nd scraped horse-radish and barberries will serve as garnish.

Flat Fish.

UNDER this article we include flounders, plaice, and the
various species of flat fish of that tribe. First cut off the fins,
nick the brown side under the head, and take out the guts.
Dry them with a cloth, and boil them in salt and water. Gar-
nish them with parsley, and serve them up either with shrimp,
cockle, or anchovy sauce.

Herrings.

SCALE, gut, and wash them, clean and dry them, and rub
them over with a little salt and vinegar. Skewer their tails in
their mouths, and lay them on your fish-plate. Put them in
when the water boils, and in about ten or twelve minutes take
them up. Let them drain properly, and then turn their heads
into the middle of the dish. Use parsley and butter for sauce,
and garnish with scraped horse-radish.

Perch.

WHEN you have scaled, gutted, and washed your fish, put
it into the water when it boils, with some salt, an onion cut
into slices, and separated into round rings, a handful of parsley

D2

36 ROASTING.

clean picked and washed, and as much milk as will turn the
water. Put the fish into a soup dish as soon as it is enough,
and pour a little of the water, and the parsley and the onions,
over it. It may be served up with butter and parsley in a
boat, and with or without onions, as you choose. The same
methgd may be observed in boiling a trout.

Eels.

HAVING skinned, gutted, and taken the blood out of your
eels, cut off their heads, dry them, and turn them round on
your fish-plate. Boil them in salt ami water, and serve them
up with parsley sauce, and anchovy sauce.

Mullets.

BOIL them in salt and water ; when they are enough, pour
avray part of the water, and put to the rest a gill of red wine,
sonje salt and vinegar, two onions sliced, with a bunch of
sweet herbs, some nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a
lemon. Boil these well together, with two or three anchovies.
Then 'put ifc the fish, and when they have simmered in it
some time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce ore 1 '
them. Shrimps or oysters may be added.

CHAPTER IV.

ROASTING.

PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.

I: UT a little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and with it
baste the meajs a little. When dry, dredge well with flour,
and baste with fresh butter ; because it will give a better
colour to your meat. The fire should be regulated accord-
ing to the thing to be dressed : if very little or thin, then you
should have a pretty brisk fire, that it may be done quickly
and nicely ; if a large joint, take care, that a large fire is
laid on to cake. The fire must be always clear at the bot-
tom ; and when the meat is half done, move the dripping-parr
and spit a little from the fire, and stir it up, to make it burn
clear and brisk ; for a good fire is a material thing in the bu-
siness of cookery. If you are roasting beef, take care to
paper the top, and baste well while a the fire, not forgetting
to sprinkle some salt on it. When the smoke draws to the

ROASTING. 37

fire, it is a sign that it is nearly enough ; and then take off
the paper, baste well, and dredge with flour, to make it
frothy ; but never salt your meat before you lay it to the fire,
as that will draw out part of the gravy. In roasting mutton or
lamb, the loin, the chine, and the saddle, must have the skin
raised and skewered on, and when nearly done, take off the
skin, and baste and flour, to froth it up. All other sorts .of
mutton and lamb must be roasted with a quick clear fire, with-
out the skin being raised. You must be careful to roast veal
of a fine brown ; and if it be a fillet or loin, be sure to paper
the fat, that you may lose as little of it as possible. At first
keep it at some distance from the fire, but when it is soaked,
put it nearer. When you lay it down, baste well with but-
ter ; and when nearly done, baste again, and dredge with a
little flour. The breast must be roasted with the caul on, till
the meat be enough done, and skewer the sweetbread on the
back side of the breast. When sufficiently roasted, take off
the caul, baste it, and dredge a little flour over it. Pork
should be well done, or it will otherwise be apt to surfeit.
When you roast a loin, cut the skin across with a sharp knife,
in order to make the crackling eat the better. When you
roast a leg of pork, score it in the same manner as the loin,
and stuff the knuckle part with sage and onion, and skewer it
up. Put a little drawn gravy in the dish, and send it up with
apple-sauce in a tureen. The spring, or hand of pork, if very
young, and roasted like a pig, eats very well ; but, otherwise,
it is much better boiled. The sparerib should be basted with
a little butter, a very little dust of flour, and some sage and
onions shred small. Apple sauce is the only sauce made for
this joint. Wildfowls require a clear brisk fire, and should
be roasted till they are of a light brown, but not too much ;
for it is a great fault to roast them till the gravy runs out of
fhem, as they thereby lose their fine flavour. Tame fowls
require more roasting, as they are a long time before they get
thoroughly heated. ' They should be often basted, in order to
keep up a strong froth, and as it makes them of a finer colour,
and rise better. Pigs and geese should be roasted before a
good fire, and turned quickly. Hares and rabbits require time
and care, to see the ends are roasted enough. In order to
prevent their appearing bloody at the neck when they are
cut up, cut the neck skin, when they are half roasted, and let
out the blood. Having thus premised these general rules for
roasting, we shall now proceed to particulars.

A Fore Quarter of House Lamb.

HOUSE lamb requires to be well roasted. A small fore-
quarter will take an hour and a half; a leg, three quarters of

no ASH:-.

an hour. For sauce, mint sauce, with salad, brocoli,
toes, celery raw or stewed : or for a fore quarter of lamb, cut
off the shoulder, pepper and salt the ribs, and squeeze a Se-
ville orange over it.

Tongues or Udders.

THE tongue should be parboiled, before it is put down to
roast; stick eight or ten cloves about it; baste it with but-
ter, and serve it up with some gravy. An udder may be
roasted after the same manner.

Sweetbreads.

FIRST parboil them, and when cold lard them xvith bacou,
and roast them in a Dutch oven, or on a poor man's jack.
For sauce, plain butter, ketchup and butter, or lemon sauce.

Venison.

IN order to roast a haunch of venison properly, as soon ajs
you have spitted it, you must lay over it a large sheet of pa-
per, and then a thin common paste, with another paper over
that. Tie it fast, in order to keep the paste from dropping oft';
and if the haunch be a large one, it will take four hours roast-
ing. As soon as it is done enough, take off both paper and
paste, dredge well with flour, and baste with butter. As soon
as it becomes of a light brown, dish it up ; serving brown
gravy, and currant jelly sauce, in tureens.

Saddle of Mutton.

TAKE a saddle, and remove the skin very neatly near the
rump, without taking it quite off, or breaking it. Take some
lean ham, truffles, morels, green onions, parsley, thyme, sweet
herbs, all chopped small, with some spice, pepper, and salt*
Strew it over the mutton where the skin is taken off; put the
skin over it neatly, and tie over it some white paper, well
buttered, and roast it. When nearly enough, take off the
paper, strew over it some grated bread, and when it is of a fine
brown, take it up. Have ready some good gravy for 'sauce.
Or it may be roasted without any force.

Haunch of Mutton.

To dress a haunch of mutton venison fashion, take a hind
fat quarter of mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch. Lay it
in a pan with the back side of it down, and pour a bottle of
red wine over it, in which let it lie twenty-four hours. Spit
and roast it at a good quick fire, and keep basting all the time
with the same liquor and butter. It will require an hour and
an half roasting ; and when done, send it up with a little

ROASTING. 39

good gravy in one boat, and sweet sauce in another. A good
i'at neck of mutton done in this manner, is esteemed delicate
eating.

Mutton with Oysters.

TAKE a leg of mutton, after it has beeli killed two or three
days, stuff it all over with oysters, and roast it. Garnish with
horse-radish. It may be roasted with cockles in the same
manner.

Pigs.

COOKS who choose to have the killing of the pig they are
to dress, must proceed thus : stick the pig just above the
breast-bone, and run the knife into its heart ; for if the heart
is not touched, it will be a long while dying. As soon as it is
dead, put it a few minutes in cold water, and rub it over with
a little rosin, beaten exceedingly fine, or you may make use
of its own blood for that purpose. Let it lie half a minute in
a pail of scalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a clean
table, and pull off the hair as fast as possible ; but if it do not
come clean off, put it into the hot water again, and when per-
fectly clean, wash it in warm water, and then in two or three
cold waters, in order that in may not taste of the rosin, when
dressed. Take off the four feet at the first joint, slit it down
the belly, and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver,
lights, and pettitoes together; wash the pig well in cold water,
and having perfectly dried it, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it
from the air. Make a stuffing with chopped sage, two escha-
lots, two eggs, grated bread, and fresh butter; and season
with pepper and salt : put it into the belly, sew it up, spit it,
and rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in sweet oil. Roast
gently, and when done, cut off the head ; 'then cut the body
and head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the stuffing with
the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy,
make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it.
See Sauces.

Hind Quarter of a Pig, Lamb fashion.

AT that season of the year, when house lamb bears an ex-
traordinary price, the hind quarter of a large pig will be a
very good substitute for it. Take off the skin and roast it,
and it will eat like lamb. Serve with mint sauce, or a salad.

Ham or Gammon.

TAKE off the skin of the ham or gammon, when you have
half boiled it, and dredge with oatmeal sifted very fine. Baste
with butter, and roast gently two hours. Stir up your fire,

40 ROASTING.

and then brown it quickly ; and when so done dish up, and
pour brown gravy into the dish.

Calfs Head.

WASH the head very clean, take out the bones, and dry
well with a cloth. Make a seasoning of beaten mace, white
pepper aud salt, some bacon cut very small, and some grated
bread. Strew this over it, roll it up, skewer it with a small
skewer, and tie it with tape. Roast and baste it with butter ;
make a rich veal-gravy, thickened with butter, and roll it in
flour. Some like mushrooms and the fat part of oysters : but
it is very good without.

The German Way of dressing a Calf's Head.

TAKE a large calf's head, with great part of the neck cut
with it. Split it in half, scald it very white, and take out the
jaw-bone. Take a large stewpati or saucepan, and lay at
the bottom some slices of bacon, then some thin beef ste..ks,
with some pepper and salt. Then lay in the head, pour in
some beef stock, a large onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch
of sweet herbs. Cover the stewpan very close, and set it over
a stove to stew. Then make a ragout with a quart of good
beef gravy, and half a pint of red wine. Let the wine be
well boiled in the gravy ; add to it some sweetbreads par-
boiled, and cut in slices, some cocksy-combs, oysters, mush-
rooms, truffles, and morels. Let these stew till they be ten-
der. When the head is stewed, take it up, put it into a dish,
take out the brains, the eyes, and the bones. Then slit the
tonue,cut it into small pieces, cut the eyes in pieces also,
and chop the brains ; put these into a baking-dish, and pour
some of the ragout over them. Then take the head, lay it
upon the ragout, pour the rest over it, and on that some melted
butter. Then scrape some fine Parmesan cheese, and *trew
it over the butter, and send it to the oven. It does not want
much baking, but only requires tabe of a fine brown.

Calfs Liver.

WASH and wipe it ; cut a long hole in it, and fill it up
with a stuffing made of grated bread, chopped anchovy, sweet
herbs, fat bacon shred fine, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of but-
ter, and an egg: sew the liver up ; then lard it, or wrap it in
a veal-caul, and roast it. Serve with good gravy, and sweet
sauce. See Sauces.

Stuffing for Turkeys, Hares, Rabbits, Veal, Kc.

CHOP very fine, beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschalots, a very
small quantity of marjorum ; savory, basil, and lemon peel.

ROASTING. 41

with grated nutmeg, two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an
anchovy ; mix all together, with grated bread.

Green Geese.

PUT a large lump of butter into the goose, spit it and lay
it down to the fire. Singe it, dredge it with flour, and baste
it well with butter. Baste it three or four different times with
cold butter, which will make the flesh rise much better than
if it were basted with the contents of the dripping-pan. If the
goose be a large one, it must be kept to the fire three quar-
ters of an hour; and when you think it is enough, dredge it
with flour, baste it till a fine froth rises on it, and the goose
be of a nice brown. See Sauces.

Stubble Geese.

TAKE a few sage leaves and two onions, and chop them as
fine as possible. Mix them with a large piece of butter, two
spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. Put this into the goose,
spit it, and lay it down to the fire. Singe it, and dust it with
flour, and when it is thoroughly hot, baste it with fresh but-
ter. A large goose will require an hour and a half before a
good fire, and when it is done, dredge it and baste it, pull out
the spit, and pour in a little boiling water. See Sauces.

Chickens.

PLUCK your chickens very carefully, d/aw them, and cut
off their claws only, and truss them. Put them down to a
good fire, singe, dust, and baste them with butter. A quarter
of an hour w r ill roast them ; and when they are enough, froth
them, and lay them on your dish. Serve up with parsley and
butter, or white sauce. See Sauces.

Fowls.

HAVING cleansed and dressed your large fowls, put them
down to a good fire, singe, dust, and baste them well with
butter. They must be near an hour at the fire. Make your
gravy of the necks and gizzards, and when you have strained
it, put in a spoonful of browning. Take up your fowls, pom-
some gravy into a dish, and serve them up with egg sauce.
See Sauces.

Pheasants.

PHEASANTS and partridges may be treated in the same
manner. Dust them with flour, and baste them often with
fresh butter, keeping them at a good distance from the fire.
A good fire will roast them in half an hour. Serve up with
poivrade sauce, and bread sauce. See Sauces.

Fowls, Pheasant fashion.

IF you should have but one pheasant, and want two in a
dish, take a large full-grown fowl, keep the head on, and
truss it just as you do a pheasant. Lard it with bacon, but
do not lard the pheasant, and no bt>dy will know it.

Pigeons.

SCALD, draw, and take the craws clean out of your pigeons.
and wash them in several waters. When you have dried
them, roll a good lump of butter in chopped parsley, and sea-
son it with pepper and salt. Put this into your pigeons, and
spit, dust, and baste them. A good fire will roast them in
twenty minutes, and when they are enough, serve them up
with parsley and butter. See Sauces.

Larks.

'SKEWER a dozen larks, and tie both ends of the skewer to
the spit. Dredge and baste them, and let them roast ten
minutes. Break half a penny loaf into crumbs, and put them,
with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, into a toss-
ing pan, and having shaken them over a gentle fire till they
are of a light brown, lay them between the birds, and pour a
little melted butter over them.

Larks roasted a la Francois.

WHEN the larks are trussed, put a sage or vine leaf over
their breasts: and having put them on a long skewer, put be-
tween every lark a thin piece of bacon. Tie the skewer to
the spit, and roast the birds before a clear brisk fire. Baste
with butter, and on removing the leaves, strew on them some
grated bread, mixed with a little flour. When neatly roasted,
put the larks round a dish, with grated bread fried in butter, in
the middle.

Quails.

'- :

TRUSS the quails, and make a stuffing for them with beef
suet and sweet herbs chopped very small, seasoned with a
little spice. Put them upon a small spit, and when they grow
warm baste them with water and salt ; then dredge them and
baste them with butter. For sauce, dissolve an anchovy in
good gravy, with two or three eschalots cut very fine, and the
juice of a Seville orange. Lay some fried bread crumbs
round the dish. See Sauces.

ROASTING. 43

Ducks.

KILL and draw your ducks ; then shred an onion, and a
few sage leaves. Season these with salt and pepper, and put
them into your ducks. Singe, dust, and baste them with but-
ter, and a good fire will roast them in twenty minutes; for the
quicker they are done the better they will be. Before you
take them up, dust them with flour, and baste them with but-
ter to give them a good frothing, and a pleasing brown.
Your gravy must be made of the gizzard and pinions, an
onion, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a few pepper corns,
and a large blade of mace, a spoonful of ketchup, and the
same of browning. Strain it and pour into your dish.

Turkeys.

HAVING dressed your turkey, according to the preparatory
directions already given for boiling it, truss its head down to
the legs, and make your stuffing as before directed. Spit it,
and lay it down to a good fire, which must be clear and brisk.
Singe, dust it with flour, and baste it several times with cold
butter, which will froth it much better than the hot contents
of the dripping-pan, and make the turkey more plump. When
properly done, renew the frothing in the same manner as be-
fore, and dish up. A middling sized turkey must be down at
the fire an hour and a quarter. See Sauces.

Ruff's and Rees.

THESE birds are said to be peculiar to Lincolnshire, being
very rarely found in any other county. ' The properest food
to give them is white bread and boiled milk, and they will be
fat in about eight or ten days ; but they must be fed separate-
ly, they being so delicate a bird, that they will riot both eat
out of the same pot or trough. When you kill them, strip
the skin off the head and neck, with the feathers on, and then
pluck and draw them. Put them at a good distance from the
fire in roasting, and they will be done enough in about twelve
minutes, if the fire be good. When you take them up, slip
the skin on again with the feathers on. Garnish the dish
with crisp crumbs of bread round it, and send them up with
gravy under them, such as is directed for the pheasant, and
bread sauce in a boat. See Sauces.

Rabbits.

CASE your rabbits, skewer their heads with their mouths
upon their backs, stick their fore legs into their ribs and
ikewer the hind legs double. Use the stuffing before di-

44> ROASTING.

reeled. Put it into their bellies, sew them up, and dredge
and baste them well with butter. Take them up when they
have roasted an hour ; chop the livers, and lay them in lumps
round the edge of your dish. Serve them up with parsley and
butter for sauce. See Sauces.

Rabbits dressed Hare Fashion.

LARD your rabbit with bacon, and roast it in the manner
of a hare. If you lard it, you must make gravy sauce ; but
if it be not larded, white sauce will be most proper. See
Sauces.

Hares.

HAVING skewered your hare with the head upon one
shoulder, the fore legs stuck into the ribs, and the hind legs
double,proced to make your stuffing as before directed. While
roasting, dredge with flower, and baste with milk, and so
alternately, till a quarter of an hour before the hare is done :
then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put
into the dripping pan. Serve up with a cullis sauce, and cur-
rant jelly. See Sauces.

Woodcocks and Snipes.

HAVING put your birds on a little spit, take a round of a
threepenny loaf, and toast it brown ; lay it in a dish under the
birds ; and when you lay them down to the fire, baste them
with a little butter, and let the trail drop on the toast. When
they be roasted enough, put the toast in the dish, and lay the
birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint of gravy into the
dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing-dish, for three or four
minutes, when the whole will be in a proper condition to be
sent to the table. Observe never to take any thing out of a
woodcock or snipe.

Eels and Lampreys.

EELS and lampreys are roasted with puddings in their bel-
lies in the same manner. Cut off their heads, gut them, and
take off the blood from the bone as clean as possible. Make
a forcemeat of shrimps or oysters, chopped small, half a
penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks
of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put this
into the bellies of the fish, sew them up, and turn them round
on the dish. Put flour and butter over them, pour a little
water into the dish, and bake them in a-moderate oven. When
vou take them out, take the gravy from under them, and
skim off the fat, strain it through an hair sieve, and add to it

BAKING. 45

a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, two of browning, a large
spoonful of walnut ketchup, a glass of white wine, and an-
chovy, and a slice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and
thicken it with butter and flour. Lemon and crisp parsley
may serve as a garnish.

Lobsters.

Pi T T a skewer into the vent of the tail of the lobster, to pre-
vent the water from getting into the body of it, and put it into
a pan of boiling water, with a little salt in it, and if it be a
large one, it will take half an hour boiling. Then lay it before
the fire, and baste it with butter till it has a fine froth. Dish
it up with plain melted butter io a boat. This is a better way
than actually roasting them, and is not attended with hajf the
trouble.

Cod's Head.

HAVING washed the head very clean, and scored it with
a knife, strew a little salt on it, and lay it in a large tin oven
before the fire. Throw away all the water that comes from
it for the first half hour ; then sprinkle on a little nutmeg,
cloves, mace beat fine,, and salt. Flour, and baste it with
butter. When that has lain some time, turn and season it,
and baste the other side the same. Turn it often, then baste
it with butter and crumbs of bread. If it be a large head it
will take four or five hours baking. Have ready some melted
butter wi||um anchovy, some of the liver of the fish boiled
and bruised fine, and mix it well with the butter, and two
yolks of eggs beat fine. Then strain them through a sieve, and
put them into the saucepan, with a few shrimps or pickled
cockles, two spoonfuls of red wine, and the juice of a lemon ;
serve up.

CHAPTER V.
BAKING.

Leg of Beef.

(_/UT the meat off a leg of beef, and break the bones; put
it into an earthen pan, with two onions and a bundle of sweet
herbs, and season it with a spoonful of whole pepper, and a
few cloves and blades of mace. Cover it with water, and
having tied the pot down close with brown paper, put it into

BAKIN(;.

the oven to bake. As soon as it is enough, take it out and
strain it through a sieve, and pick out all the fat and sinews,
putting thenvmto a saucepan, with a little gravy, and a piece
of butter rolled in flour. Set the saucepan on the fire, shake
it often, and when it is thoroughly hot, pour it into the dish..
and send it to table. Ox cheek' may be done in the same
manner; and if you should think it too strong, you may
weaken it by pouring in a suflicient quantity of hot \va?n .
but cold water will spoil it.

Rump of Beef .

TAKE a rump of beef and bone it, beat it well with a roll-
ing pin, cut off the sinew, and lard it with a large piece of
bacon. Season your lards with pepper, salt, and cloves : and
lard across the meat, that it may cut handsomely. Season
every part of the meat with pepper, salt, and cloves; put them
in an earthen pot, with all the broken bones, half a pound of
butter, some bay leaves, some whole pepper, one or two sha-
lots, and some sweet herbs. Cover the top of the pan well ;
then put it in an oven ; and let it stand eight hours. Serve' it
up with some dried sippits, and its own liquor.

Calf's Head.

TAKE a calf's head, and pick and wash it very clean. Get
an earthen dish large enough to hold the head, and rub the
inside of the dish with butter. Lay some long iron skewers
across the top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Skewer
up the meat in the middle, that it may not touch the dish,
and then grate some nutmeg on every part of it, a few sweet
herbs, shred small, some crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-
peel cut fine. Then flour it all over, and having stuck pieces
of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of the head,
flour it again. Let it be well baked, of a fine brown. You may-
throw a little pepper and salt over it, and put into the dish a
piece of beef cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a
blade of mace, some whole pepper, two cloves, a pint of water,
and boil the brains with some sage. When the head is
enough, lay it on a dish, and put it before the fire to keep
warm ; then stir all together in the dish, and put it in a sauce-
pan ; then strain it off, and put it into the saucepan again.
Put into it a piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage and the
brains chopped fine, a spoonful of ketchup, and two spoon-
fpjs of red wine. Boil them together, take the brains, beat
f*iem well, and mix them with the sauce. Pour all into the
dish, and send it to table. The tongue must be baked in the
head, and not cut out, as the head will then lie in the dish
more handsomely.

BAKING. 1

Pigs.

WHEN necessity obliges you to bake a pig, lay it in a dish,
tlour it well all over, and rub the pig over with butter. But-
ter the dish in which you intend to put it, and put it in the
oven. Take it out as soon as it is enough; and having rub-
bed it over with a butter cloth, put it into the oven again till
it be dry ; then take it out, lay it in a dish, and cut it up.
Take off* the fat from the dish it was baked in, and some
good gravy will remain at the bottom. Add to this a litrie
veal gravy, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil it
up ; put it into the dish, with the brains and sage in the
belly.

Salmon.

CUT a piece of salmon in slices of an inch thick, and make
forcemeat as follows : take some of the flesh of the salmon,
and the same quantity of the meat of an eel, with a few mush-
rooms. Season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves. Beat
all together till very fine. Boil the crumb of a halfpenny roll
in milk, beat it with four eggs till it be thick, then let it cool,
and mix it. all together with four raw eggs. Take the skin
from the salmon, and lay the slices in a dish. Cover every
slice with forced meat, pour some melted butter over them,
and add a few crumbs of bread. Lay a crust round the dish,
and stick oysters round it. Put it into an oven, and, when it is
of a fine brown, pour over it a little melted butter, with some
red wine boiled in it, and the juice of a lemon.

Carp.

HAVING scaled, washed, and cleaned a brace of carp pro-
perly, get an earthen pan deep enough for them to lie in
properly ; and having buttered the pan a little, lay in the
carp. Season them with a little black and white pepper, mace,
cloves, nutmegs, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and an
anchovy ; pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them close,
and put them into a hot oven. If they are large, they will
require an hour baking ; but if small, less time will do
them. When they are enough, take them up carefully, and
lay them in a dish. Set it over hot water to keep hot, and
cover close. Pour all the liquor in which they were baked
into a saucepan ; let it boil a minute or two, strain it, and
add half a pound of butter rolled in flour. Keep stirring '*+
all the time it is boiling ; squeeze in the juice of half a lemc.i,
and put in a proper quantity of salt, observing to skim all the
fat off" the liquor. Pour the sauce over the fish, lay the roes
round them, and garnish with lemon.

48 BAKING.

|

Cod's Head.

MAKE the head very clean, and lay it in the pan, which
you must first rub round with butter. Put in a bundle of
sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades
of mace, half a large spoonful of black and white pepper,
part of a nutmeg bruised, a quart of water, a little piece of
lemon-peel, and a little piece of horse-radish. Dust the head
with flour, stick a piece of butter on various parts of it, and
sprinkle raspings all over it, put it into the oven, and when
enough, take it out of the dish, and lay it carefully in the
dish in which you intend to serve it up. Set the dish over
boiling water, and cover it up close, to prevent its getting
cold. In the meantime, as expeditiously as you can, pour all
the liquor out of the dish, in which it was baked, into a sauce-
pan, and let it boil three or four minutes; then strain it, and
put in a gill of red wine, two spoonfuls of ketchup, a pint of
shrimps, half a pint of oysters, a spoonful of mushroom
pickle, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and stir
all together till it be thick and boils : then strain it, and pour
it into the dish, and have ready some toast, cut three corner
ways, and fried crisp. Stick pieces of the toast about the
head and mouth, and lay the remainder round the head.

Herrings.

HAVING scaled, washed, and dried your herrings properly,,
lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper whole,
allspice in fine powder, a few whole cloves, and plenty of salt ;
mix them together, and rub the fish all over with it. Lay
them in a pot, cover them with half vinegar and half small
beer, tie a strong paper over the pot, and bake them in a
moderate oven. .They may be eaten either hot or cold, and
they will keep good two or three months.

Sprats.

MAY be dressed in the same manner, only they should be
slightly rubbed with saltpetre the preceding night ; in order
to make them red.

BROILING. 49

CHAPTER VI.

BROILING.

PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.

JJEFORE you lay your meat on the gridiron, be careful
that your fire be very clear: the kind or cinder termed coak
makes the best fire for broiling. Let your gridiron be very
clean, and when heated by the fire, rub the bars with clean
mutton suet: this will both prevent the meat from being dis-
coloured, and hinder it from sticking. Turn your meat
quickly while broiling, and have a dish, placed on a chafing-
dish of hot coals, to put your meat in as fast as it is ready,
and carry it hot and covered to table. Observe never to baste
any thing on the gridiron, because that may be the means of
burning it, and making it smoky.

Beef Steaks.

THE best beef steaks are those cut off a rump, and should
not be more than half an inch in thickness. Lay on the
steaks, and turn them often to keep in the gravy; or, having
put them on the gridiron, keep them continually turning;
whilst dressing, lay upon them a piece of fat ; and when
taken from the fire, put upon them a little grated horse-radish,
together with a small portion of butter, mixed with white
pepper and salt. Put into the dish a little hot gravy, in which
let there be shred some eschalot, or young onions,

Mutton Chops.

TAKE a loin of mutton, and cut chops from it about half an
inch thick, and cut off the skin, and part of the fat. Keep
turning them often, and take care that the fat which fulls from
them do not make the fire blaze and smoke your chops. Put
them into a dish as soon as you think they are done, and rub
them with butter. Slice an eschalot very thin into a spoonful
of water, and pour it on them with a spoonful of mushroom
ketchup, and a little salt. Or cut the best part of a neck of
mutton into chops, having previously cut off the fat, and sea-
son them with white pepper and sak : keep frequently turning
them. When sufficiently done, serve them up as hot as pos-
sible.

M> BROILING,

Pork Chops.

THE same rules we have laid down for broiling mutton,
will hold good with respect to pork chops, with this difference
only, that pork requires more broiling than mutton. As soon
as they are enough, put a little good gravy to them, and
strew a little sage, rubbed fine, over them, which will give-
them an agreeable flavour.

Chickens,

HAVING slitted your chickens down the back, season them
with pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron, over a
clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the inside continue
next the fire, till it be nearly half done. Then turn them,
taking care that the fleshy sides do not burn, and let them
broil till they are of a fine brown. Have good gravy sauce,
with some mushrooms, and garnish them with lemon, and
the liver broiled, and the gizzards cut, slashed, and broiled
with pepper and salt. See Sauces,

Pigeons.

WHEN you broil pigeons, take care that your fire be clear.
Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a
walnut, with a little pepper and salt, and put it into their
bellies. Tie them at both ends, and put them on the grid-
iron. Or you may split and broil them, having first seasoned
them with pepper and salt. Serve them up with a little parsley
and butter.

Broiled Fish prepared thus :

WIPE the fish dry, flour them well, and have the gridiron
clean ; then rub the bars with a veal caul, and put the fish at
a proper distance. Broil them gently over a clear fire till of
a fine colour, and serve them up directly. Fish in general to
be floured, except herrings, which are only to be scored with
a knife.

Weavers.

GUT, and wash clean; dry in a clean cloth, and flour;
then broil them. Serve with plain butter and anchovy sauce,
See Sauces.

Cod.

CUT the cod into slices about two inches thick, and dry
*nd flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub the grid-

BftOlLlNG. 51

iron with a piece of chalk, and set it high from the fire.
Turn them often, till they be quite enough, and of a fine
hrovvn. They require a great deal of care to prevent them
from breaking. Lobster or shrimp sauce. See Sauces.

Crimped Cod.

PUT a gallon of pump water into a pot, and set it on the
fire, with a handful of salt. Boil it up several times, and
keep it clean scummed. When well cleared from the scum,
take a middling cod, as fresh as possible, and throw it into a
tub of fresh pump water. Let it lie a few minutes, and then
cut it into slices two inches thick. Throw these into the
boiling brine, and let it boil briskly a few minutes. Then
take out the slices, take great care not to break them, and lay
them on a sieve to drain. When they are well dried, flour
them, and lay them at a distance upon a very good fire to
broil. Lobster or shrimp sauces. See Sauces.

Trout.

CLEAN and wash, and dry them well in a cloth ; tie theni
round with packthread from top to bottom, to keep them entire
and in shape. Then melt some butter, with a good deal of
basket salt. Pour it all over the trout till it is perfectly covered ;
then put it on a clear fire, at a great distance, that it may do
gradually. When done, lay it in a warm dish, and serve with
anchovy sauce.

Cod Sounds.

LAY them a few minutes in hot water, then take them out,
and rub them well with salt, and take off the skin and black
dirt. Put them into water, and boil till tender. Take them
out, flour them well, pepper and salt them, and then put
them on the gridiron. Whilst broiling, season a little good
brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea spoonful of soy, and a
little mustard : give it a boil with a bit of flour and butter,
and pour it over the sounds.

Lobsters.

WHEN the lobsters are broiled, split their tails and chines,
crack their claws, and pepper and salt them. Take out their
bodies, and what is called the lady. Then put them again
into the shel!s, and then upon the gridiron over a clear fire,
as also the tails and the claws. Baste them with butter, and
send them to table, with melted butter and anchovy sauce.

Mackerel.
HAVING cleaned your mackerel, wipe dry , split them down the

$2 BROILING.

back, and season them with pepper and salt. Flour them,
and broil them of a fine light brown. See Sauces.

If you choose to broil your mackerel whole, wash them
clean, cut off their heads, and pull out their roes at the neck
end. Boil their roes in a little water; then bruise them with
a spoon, beat up the yolk of an egg, a little nutmeg, a little
lemon peel cut fine, some thyme, some parsley, boiled and
chopped fine, a little salt and pepper, and a few crumbs of
bread. Mix these well together, and fill the fish with them.
Flour them well, and broil^ them nicely. Butter, ketchup,
and walnut pickle, will make a proper sauce.

Salmon.

TAKE pieces or slices of salmon, wipe dry, dip in sweet
oil (or for want of oil, in fres'i butter that has been oiled),
and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of
writing paper, broil over a clear fire, and serve them up hot.

Eels.

. HAVING skinnedj gutted, and washed your eels, dry them
with a cloth, and rub them with the yolk of an egg. Strew
grated bread over them and chopped parsley, and sea-
son them with pepper and salt. Baste them well with butter,
and broil them on a gridiron. Serve with parsley and butter,
and anchovy sauce.

Eels pitch-cocked.

HAVING skinned and cleansed your eels as before, sprinkle
them with pepper, salt, and a little dried sage. Turn them
backward and forward, and skewer them. Rub your gridiron
with beef suet, and broil them till they are of a fine brown.
Put them on your dish, serve them up with melted butter,
and lay fried parsley round the dish.

Haddocks and Whitings.

HAVING gutted and washed your fish, dry them with a
cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will contri-
bute to preserve the skin whole. Dredge them well with
flour, and rub your gridiron with beef suet. Let your grid-
iron he very hot when you lay your fish on, otherwise they
will stick to it. Turn them two or three times while they
are broiling, and when enough, serve up with melted butter
and anchovy sauce.

Another method is, when you have cleansed and dried your
fish as before directed, put them in a tin oven, and set them
before a quick fire. Take them from the fire as soon as the
skin begins to rise, and having beaten up an egg, rub it over

BROILING. 53

them with a feather. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over
them, dredge them well with flour, and rub your gridiron
when hot with suet or butter ; but it must be very hot before
you lay your fish on it. When you have turned them, rub a
little butter over them, and keep turning them as the fire may
require, till they be enough, which may be known by their
browning. Serve them up with either shrimp sauce, or melted
butter and anchovy sauce.

Mullets.
ARE to be dressed as directed for salmon.

Herrings.

SCALE, gut, and wash clean, dry in a cloth ; score, and
broil them. Plain butter and mustard for sauce.

Potatoes.

HAVING first boiled them, peel them, cut them into two,
and broil them till they are brown on both sides. Then lay
them in the plate or dish, and pour melted butter over them.

Mushrooms.

CLEAN fresh mushrooms with a knife, wash and drain them :
make a case with a sheet of white paper ; rub the inside well
with fresh butter, and fill it with the mushrooms ; season them
with white pepper arid salt ; put the case containing them
upon a baking plate of cast iron (in the country called a back-
stone) over a slow fire ; cover them with the cover of a stew-
pot, upon which place some fire, and when nearly dry, serve
them up, with some rich cullis. See Sauces.

Eggs.

HAVING cut a toast round a quartern loaf, brown it, lay it
on your dish, butter it, and very carefully break six or eight
eggs on the toast. Take a red hot shovel, and hotd it over
them. When done, squeeze & Seville orange over them,
grate a little nutmeg over it, and serve it up for a side-plate.
Or you may poach your eggs, and lay them on a toast; or
toast your bread crisp, and pour a little boiling water over
it. Season it with a little salt, and then lay your poached
eggs on it.

54 FRYING.

CHAPTER VII.
FRYING.

PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.

JJE careful always to keep your frying-pan clean, and see
that it is properly tinned. When you fry any sort of fish,
first dry them in 'a cloth, and then flour them. Put into
your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog's lard, and let it be
boiling hot before you put in your fish. Butter is not so good
for the purpose, as it is apt to burn and blacken the fish, and
make them soft. When you have fried your fish, lay them
in a dish or hair sieve to drain, before you send them up to
table.

Venison.

BONE your venison, if it be either the neck or breast ; but
if it be the shoulder, the meat must be cut off the bone in
slices. Make some gravy with the bones ; then take the meat
and fry it of a light brown ; take it up and keep it hot before
the fire. Put some flour to the butter in the pan, and keep
stirring it till it be quite thick and brown. Take care it does
r^ot burn. Stir in half a pound of fine sugar beat to powder,
pfit in the gravy that came from the bones, and some red
wine. Make it the thickness of a fine cream ; squeeze in the
juice of a lemon, warm the venison in it, put it in the dish,
and pour the sauce over it.

Ox Feet.

LET them boil till they are tender ; then skin and split
them, and take out the bones, and fry them in butter. When
they have fried a little, put in some mint and parsley shred
small, a little salt, and some beaten butter; beat the yolks of
eggs, some mutton gravy and vinegar, the juice of a lemon
or orange, sind nutmeg. Lay it in the dish, and pour the
sauce over it. Some put a little shred onion in it.

Beef Steaks.

HAVING cut your steaks in the same manner as for broiling,
put them into a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, set
them over a very slow fire, and keep turning them till the
butter becomes of the consistence of white gravy. Pour it
into a bason, and add more butter to them. When they are
Dearly fried, pour all the gravy into a bason, and put more

FRYING. 5

butter in your pan. Fry your steaks over a brisk fire till they
are of a light brown, and then take them out of the pan.
Put them into a pewter dish made hot, slice a eschalot among
them, andput in some of the gravy that was drawn from- them,
and pour it hot upon them.

Another method is, take rump-steaks, pepper and salt
them, and fry them in a little butter very quick, and brown :
then put them into a dish, and pour the fat out of the frying-
pan. Take half a pint of hot gravy, half a pint of hot water,
and pu: into the pan. Add to it a little butter rolled in flour,
a little pepper and salt, and two or three eschalots chopped
fine. Boil them up in your pan for two minutes, and pour it
over the steaks You may garnish with a little scraped horse-
radish. Or fry the steaks in butter a good brown, then put
in half a pint of water, one onion sliced, a spoonful of walnut
ketchup, a little chopped eschalot, and some white pepper and
salt. When enough, thicken the gravy with flour and butter,
and serve up very hot.

Loin or Neck of Lamb.

HAVING cut your lamb into chops, rub both sides of them
with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle some grated bread ovei
them, mixed with a little parsley, thyme, marjoram, winter
savory, and a little lemon-peel, all chopped very fine. Fry
in butter till of a nice light brown, and garnish with fried
parsley.

Veal Cutlets.

CUT your veal into pieces about the thickness of half a
crown, and as long as you please. Dip them in the yolk of
an egg, and strew over them grated bread, a few sweet
herbs, some lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg, and fry
them in fresh butter. While they are frying, make a little
gravy, and when the meat is done, take it out, and lay it in
a dish before the fire ; then shake a little flour into the pan,
and stir it round. Put in a little gravy and pickled mushrooms^
squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal.

Cold Veal

CUT your veal into pieces of the thickness of half a crown,
and as long as you please. Dip them in the yolk of an egg,
and then in grated bread, with a few sweet herbs, and shred
lemon-peel in it. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry
them in fresh butter. The butter must be hot, just enough
to fry them in. In the meantime, make a little gravy of the
bone of the veal, and when the meat is fried, take it omt
with a fork, and lay it in a dish before the fire. Then shake

5(5 FRYING.

a little flour into the pan, and stir it round. Then put in a
little gravy, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the
veal 4

Sweetbreads.

CUT them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an egg, and
rub it over them with a feather. Make a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and grated bread; dip them into it, and fry in butter;
or you mny fry them in the following batter. For sauce,
ketchup and butter, with gravy or lemon sauce. Garnish
with small slices of toasted bacon and crisped parsley. See
Sauces.

Batter for frying different Articles ; such as Celery, OxPeths,
Sweetbreads, Artichoke Bottoms, Tripe, Eggs, Me.

TAKE four ounces of best flour sifted, a little salt and pep-
per, three eggs, and a gill of beer; beat them together with
a wooden sypoon for ten minutes. Let it be of a good thick-
ness to adhere to the different articles.

Tripe.

CUT your tripe into pieces four inches long, and about
three inches wide ; put it into batter, and fry in boiling lard.
Fry till brown ; then take it out, and put it to drain, and serve
it up with plain butter in a boat: or you may add fried
onions, and serve up with butter and mustard.

Sausages.

TAKE six apples, and slice four of them as thick as a crown
piece ; cut the other two in quarters, and fry them with the
sausages till they are brown. Lay the sausages in the middle
of the dish, and the apples round them. Garnish with the
quartered apples. Sausages fried, and stewed cabbage,
make a good dish. Heat cold pease-pudding in a pan, lay it
in the dish, and the sausages round ; heap the pudding in
'the middle, and lay the sausages all round up edgeways, ex-
cept one in the middle at length.

Eggs.

PUT clarified butter in a frying-pan, break fresh eggs, one
at a time ; put a little white pepper and salt, and turn them
half over. They should be fried of a nice brown, but not

11

hard.

Potatoes.
CUT your potatoes into thin slices, as large as a crown piece,

FRYING. 51

and fry them brown. Lay them in a dish or plate, and pour
melted butter over them.

Artichokes.

HAVING blanched them in water, flour them and fry them
in fresh butter. Lay them in your dish, and pour melted
butter over them.

Celery.

CUT celery heads throe inches long, boil them till half
done, wipe dry, and dip in batter: have read^ boiling lard,
take out the heads singly with a fork, fry them of a light co-
lour, drain dry, and serve with fried parsley.

Parsley.

TAKE fresh gathered parsley, pick, wash, and drain it very
dry with a cloth : have ready clean boiling lard, put the parsley
into it, keep stirring with a skimmer, and. when a little crisp,
take it out, put it on a drainer, and strew salt upon it.

Turbots.

THE turbot must be small ; cut it across as if it were ribbed;
when it is quite dry, flour it, and put it in a large frying-pan,
with boiling lard enough to cover it. Fry it till it is brown,
and then drain it. Clean the pan, put into it half a pint of
white wine, and white gravy enough to cover it, anchovy,
salt, nutmeg, and a little ginger. Put in the fish, and let it
stew till half the liquor is wasted. Then take it out, and put
in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a squeeze of lemon.
Let them simmer till of a proper thickness ; rub a hot dish
with a piece of eschalot, lay the turbot in the dish, and pour
the hot sauce over it.

Soles.

HAVING skinned your soles in the same manner you do
eels, except taking off their heads, which must not be done,
rub them over with an egg, and strew over them grated bread.
Fry them over a brisk fire in hog's lard till they are brown.
Serve them up with melted butter, and anchovy sauce.

Smelts.

DRAW the guts out at the gills, but leave in the milt or
roe ; dry them with a cloth, beat an egg, rub it over them
with a feather, and strew grated bread over them. Fry them
with ho^'s lard, and put in your fish when boiling hot. Shake
them a little, and fry them till they are of a fine brown.

A8 TRYING.

Drain them on a dish, or in a sieve. Fry a handful of parsley
in the manner already directed.

Oysters,

WHEN you intend to fry your oysters, you must always
choose those of the larger kind. Open twenty-four large oys-
ters, blanch them with their own liquor ; and when three parts
done, strain them, and preserve the liquor ; then wash, and
let them drain : in the meanwhile, make a batter with four
table-spoonfuls of Hour, two eggs a little pepper and salt, and
their liquor. Beat it well with a wooden spoon for five mi-
nutes. Put the oysters into the batter, mix them lightly, and
have ready boiling lard. Take the oysters out singly with a
fork, put them into the lard, and fry them of a nice brown co-
lour. Then put them on a drainer, strew over a small quantity
of salt, and serve them up. If intended for a dish, put fried
parsley under them, or stewed spinach.

Carp.

SCALE and gut your carp, then wash them clean, lay them
in a cloth to dry, flour them, and fry them of a fine light
brown. Take some crusts, cut tnree-corner ways, and fry
them and the roes.. When your fish are done, lay them on a
coarse cloth to drain, and prepare anchovy sauce, with the
juice of lemon. Lay your carp on the dish, the roes on each
side, and garnish with lemon and the fried toast.

Tench.

CLEAN your fish, slit them along the backs, and with the
point of your knife raise the flesh from the bone. Cut the
skin across at the head and tail, strip it off, and take out the
bone. Take another tench, and mince the flesh small, with
mushrooms, cives, and parsley. Season them with salt, pep-
per, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savory herbs, minced
small. Mix these well together, pound them in a mortar
with crumbs of bread (in quantity about the size of two eggs)
soaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece
of butter. When these have been well pounded, stuff your
fish with it. Put clarified butter into a pan, set it over the
fire, and when hot, flour your fish, and put them into the
pan one by one. Having fried them till brown, take them
up and lay in a coarse cloth before the fire to keep hot.
Then pour all the fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a
pound of butter, and shake some flour into the pan. Keep
it stirring with a spoon till the butter is a little brown, and
then pour in half a pint of white wine. Stir them together,

FRYING. 59

and pour in half a pint of boiling water, an onion stuck. with
cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and two blades of mace.
Cover these close, and let them stew as softly as you can for
a quarter of an hour ; then strain off the liquor, and put it
into the pan again, adding two spoonfuls of ketchup, an
ounce of truffles or morels, boiled tender in half a pint of
water, a few mushrooms, and half a pint of oysters,