-= u- : "ß "G - - ..l] - IT" :n --c 8 u ::::: ( Ë - - ? _ .-:1 z - ---= ::>!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!f'T1 ar"kman J5ðftfon THE l\IAKERS OF CANADA VOL. XX SIR JAMES DOUGLAS ( J 9 THE MAKERS OF CANADA SIR JAMES DOUGLAS BY ROBERT HAl\fILTON COATS AND R. E. GOSNELL TORONfO l\10RANG & CO., LIl\lITED 1909 Entered according to Act of the Parliament of Canada in the year 1908 by jl,Iorang & Co., Limited, in the Department of Agriculture. SEP I) 1955 CONTENTS CHAPTER I Page THE NORTH- 'VEST COAST . 1 CHAPTER II THE TRAVELLER OVERLAND 49 CHAPTER 111 NE'V CALEDONIA 87 CHAPTER IV FORT VANCOUVER 113 CHAPTER V THE OREGON BOUNDARY . 147 CHAPTER VI VICTORIA 175 CHAPTER VII VANCOUVER ISLAND 207 CHAPTER VIII THE T'VO COLONIES 231 CHAPTER IX CONFEDERATION 303 INDEX 3õ7 CHAPTER I THE NORTH-WEST COAST B RITISH Columbia, as we know it to-day, has had an organic existence only since the year 1859, or, at the earliest, if we include the colony of 'T ancouyer Island, since 1849. Its his- tory, therefore, as Crown colony and province of the Dominion of Canada, is contemporary with the lives of many still living. In a previous era, how- ever, the region had bulked large in the annals of the fur trade; and in a period still more remote it was a part of the romantic story of the conquest of the Pacific. If, therefore, we ,vould penetrate be- yond results to ultimate causes, to see the com- munity in its making and the material which the most active of its makers found to his hand, as well as the development which sprang from that begin- ning, we should find that the inquiry, notwith- standing the remoteness of the region from the political life of the continent with which we are most familiar, and the recent date at which its organization was effected, leads far into the past. We must begin, indeed, if we would trace the stream of western history to its source, with a time almost coeval with the earliest European knowledge of America and but little subsequent to the landing of Columbus on its eastern shores. 1 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS The fact that the progress of colonization on this continent received a very remarkable impetus from the western side, has not always been given emphasis. Three causes have been commonly assigned for the early spread of civilization in America. The original discovery of the continent came as a result of that spirit of adventure, born of the Renaissance, ,vhich, coupling itself with the demand of the trader for a short route to the Orient, sent na\.igators into every sea. Two cen- turies before Colulnbus, l\Iarco Polo and his follow- ing of mediæval travellers had fired the imagina- tion of the age with the glories of Cathay. The dream that a path to these might lie by the west- ern ocean, or, when the barrier of two continents stretched itself in the \vay, by the rivers and mountain passes of the new land (or, it might be, by some "Strait of Anian" in the sea itself), was ever before the eyes of that daring race of sailors and discoverers who traced the coasts and pene- trated the pathless wildernesses of the New ,V orld. The second compelling force manifested itself later, when to the religious zeal of Europe, still seething fronl the Reforlnation, came the knowledge that America had a native population sunken in sav- agery and spiritual darkness. This operated in t\VO directions: the heathen brought the missionary, most dauntless of martyrs; on the other hand, those who in an age of relentless persecutions looked with longing eyes for a land of freedom, 2 COLONIZATIO FROM THE 'VEST found suddenly a whole continent open to them where opposing bigotries were unkno\vn. Of such were the Jesuit Fathers and the Puritans of New England. "If Columbus discovered the new con- tinent," says l\Ir. Goldwin Smith, "the Puritans discovered the New "T orld." But a third factor, strong as these, was the lust of gain. To the covetous eyes of the Spaniard, mighty on sea and land, who had already forced his way by Cape Horn to the Pacific, stood revealed the wonderful riches of l\Iexico and Peru. These hapless countries he overran with fire and sword, plundered theln of their gold, and trampled their ancient and reInarkable civilizations into the dust. The return of the Spanish galleons laden with treasure set Europe on fire. Of all the influences that in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries turned the eyes of the adventurer towards America, greed was undoubtedly the most powerful. It is of special import to the present purpose because of the far-reaching part it played in the development of enterprise on the Pacific Ocean. I t is not the intention here to outline the his- tory of the entire Pacific coast of America, but to trace briefly the 11lore Ï1nportant events which led to the discovery of the north-west portion of it and to the ultimate domination of British interests therein. And here, across the path of the story at its outset, falls, and for two centuries abides, the mighty shadow of Spain. It was fortunate for the 3 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS establishment of British influence in North Amer- ica and especially on the western shores of the con- tinent, that a people so powerful as the Spaniards in the sixteenth century did not possess the genius for colonization. Ilnpetuous and daring the Span- ish spirit was; but the greed and cruelty ingrained in its very fibre cast a blight on whatever it touched and left no other monument than endur- ing hate. Such power could not finally prevail. War and spoliation led the Spaniards, at various times, far northward from their base in l\-Iexico; but the vast Pacific slope, so full of latent pos- sibilities, remained, for as long as their influence overshadowed it, unvisited and unknown. The early operations of Spain in the Pacific, however, are of importance as the first of a series of events which have had an immediate influence upon present conditions in the northern and west- ern portions of America. Other contributing agen- cies from the side of the Pacific were the Russian occupation of Alaska and the establishment of Brit- ish trade interests by sea on the north-west coast. Intermingled with these were the later activities of the overland traders and discoverers of the North-West Company, the Hudson's Bay Com- pany and the Astorians, who fought their way through the mountains to the Pacific under the flags of their nations. It will be of interest to note from the earliest point how these several influences arose and entered into combination. 4 THE DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC Balboa was the first ,vhite man to see the Paci- fic-marching his men mid-deep into its surf and proclaiming the sovereignty of Spain over its mighty waters, "for all time, past, present, or to come, without contradiction. . . . . . north and south, . . . . . from the Pole Arctic to the Pole Antarctic." l\Iexico, the ancient seat of the Tol- tecs and Aztecs, was discovered five years later, in 1518. In 1519, it was conquered by Cortez, and the civilization of l\Iontezuma was overthrown. l\Iagellan, a Portuguese, who had joined the ser- vice of Spain under Charles V, had previously completed his memorable voyage around the world, sailing through the straits of his name to the Philippine Islands, where he lost his life. This opened the way to the Orient by the Southern Ocean. Vanschouten and Lemaire, two Dutch navigators, subsequently doubled Cape Horn, pas- sing in 1516 outside of the course held by l\Iagel- Ian. These and other voyages, while they threw light on one of the vexed problems of the day, disappointed anticipations both as to the nearness of Asia and the nature of the passage. They led, however, to greater zeal in the prosecution of dis- covery on the continent of America itself, in which, especially in southern latitudes, Spain was the leader and, at first, almost alone. There fol- lowed the conquest of Peru by Pizarro in 1532 and 1533, when the rule of the Incas, more enlightened in many respects than that of Spain herself, was 5 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI AS overwhelmed. This epoch of blood has been made a household tale by Prescott: it is referred to here only in connection with the immediate result it had of further whetting the appetite of the Span- iards for plunder, in pursuance of which they be- gan, soon after, a series of excursions northward. One of the earliest of these expeditions was made, under the direction of Cortez, in 1528, by Pedro N uñez l\laldonado, who surveyed the coast for one hundred leagues, as far as the river San- tiago. Another ,vas despatched in 1532, under the command of l\lendoza, who penetrated to the 27th parallel of north latitude. A third set out a year later, consisting of two ships commanded by Gri- jalva and Becerra, the former of whom discovered the Revillagigedo Islands, while the latter reached the 23rd parallel. Nuño de GuzlIlan, governor of the Spanish possessions on the Gulf of l\fexico and the rival of Cortez, next traced the western shore of the continent as far as the mouth of the Colorado River. It is unnecessary to mention all the voy- ages made by Cortez himself, by Ulloa, Allarçon and Cabrillo, prior to 1543, by which time the country between the 41st and 43rd parallels- or what is now the northernmost limits of the state of California-had been reached both by sea and overland. l\feanwhile the Spaniards had established themselves firmly on both seaboards of Central America and l\lexico. The expeditions by land were equally as notable as those by sea, and 6 :FRANCIS DRAKE the hardships which they involved even more ter- rible. The two friars, l\Iarcos and Honorata, with Francisco Vasquez de Coronada and Fernando de Soto ,vere the most celebrated leaders, and the wished-for goal was the discovery of new l\lexicos and Peruse But Spain ,vas not to repeat adventures like these. The actual and more important result was one that in itself she valued little-the deter- mination of the coast of California and the ex- ploration of a vast extent of the interior. Coincidently with the earlier enterprises of Spain, we are introduced, amid clash of swords, decks slippery ,vith blood and desperate battle indescribable, to the British type of adventurer in the Pacific-Francis Drake, the first Englishman to sail a ship on its waters. Sea-dog and pirate as he ,vas, he lives forever in the memory of his countrymen as the scourge of their ancient enem- ies. 1Vith the immortals, IIawkins, Frobisher, and Cavendish, he was one of the founders of the navy of England. Rounding Cape Horn in 1578, he burst upon the Spanish coast, eager for revenge and treasure. The towns were unprepared for his coming, and could offer but litHe resistance. So inconceivable to the Spaniard was an Englishman in the Pacific, that their ships, low in the water with the gold and jewels of Peru, dipped colours and waited for him as a friend. Drake's story is so wild, so terrible, as to be ahnost alone of its kind. 7 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS Deep was the memory of his voyage to the Span- ish coast; for a century after, his name was never spoken but with horror. The age ,vas one of re- lentless cruelty and reprisals, and Drake gave less perhaps than he would have received. His visit to the Pacific is ilnportant as establishing the earliest claim of England to an interest in that ocean. In the spring of 1579 he sought to return by a north- ern route, in order to avoid the Spaniards; but after reaching a point between the 42nd and 48th paral- lels-or, according to some, as far north as the southernmost islands of Alaska-and finding no avenue of escape, he retraced his steps and put in at a safe harbour for repairs. 'fhe bay a little north of San Francisco, commonly known as Drake's Bay, was the point selected for this purpose. There he remained for some time, having assumed, on be- half of Queen Elizabeth, the sovereignty of the North American coast, to which he gave the title of New Albion. His ship, laden with booty, carried him, in the end, safely home by ,vay of the Philip- pines, the Indian Ocean and the Cape of Good Hope, arriving at Portsmouth on September 26th, 1580. Cavendish, with hardly less of battle and plunder, followed much the same course as Drake, in the year 1587. One who belongs to the century of Drake and whose name is inseparably associated with the waters of British Columbia, though the honour was 8 JUAN DE FUCA long withheld, was Juan de Fuca, a native of Ceph- alonia. His real name was A postolos Velerianos. 'Vhile in the service of the viceroy of 1\1 exico, he commanded, in 1592, an expedition northward, in the course of which he entered the strait no"r known by his name, between Vancouver Island and the state of "r ashington. He sailed some distance eastward, his course, as described by himself, cor- responding in the main with the general direction of the waters as "re now know them. He returned, however, before emerging northwards into the sea, somewhat rashly concluding that he had discovered the traditional Strait of Anian. For many years the voyage ,vas regarded as apocryphal, and it ,vas not until the strait was rediscovered by subsequent navigators in the latitude assigned to it by Juan de Fuca that the earlier sailor received his due meed of renown. During the period covered by these and other early voyages in the Pacific, the struggle for the sovereignty of the New "r orld and the trade of the distant 'Vest-a struggle destined to continue for nearly three hundred years-had already begun amongst the maritime nations of Europe. The powers were Spain, Great Britain, France, Portugal and Holland. The first, having established herself in Central and South America, conquered the Philippines and secured a foothold in the East Indies. Portugal extended her trade to India and 9 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the South Seas. A new France arose in the valley of the St. Lawrence. Great Britain planted vigor- ous colonies on the North Atlantic coast. Dutch navigators, throughout, laboured persistently in the wake of their competitors. Here was ample field for opposing interests. It was, however, the pre- tentions of the Spaniards to exclusive domain in the south and west that were most bitterly resented by the rival nations. By virtue of prior discovery and of the papal grant of 1493, no nation of Europe, with the one exception of Portugal, was recognized by the court of l\ladrid as having any claim to occupy territory ill Alnerica, or to navigate the western Atlantic or any part of the Pacific. The exception- al position of Spain had bee.n in a measure re- cognized by Great Britain in 1670, and confirmed by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, though the terms of these and other agreements were so vague, as applied to a new and unknown continent, that they served rather to increase than to prevent confusion. It was, however, the efforts of England to establish trade relations with the Spanish dominions which constituted the cause of nearly all the disputes between the two countries subsequent to the middle of the sixteenth century. In connection with this keen trade rivalry, which has to do with much that follows, the difference often remarked between the policy of Great Britain and the continental po\vers should be borne in mind from the outset. In the developlnent of British 10 RIVAL TRADE POI ICIES commercial and colonial empire, incomparably more has been effected by the enterprise of private in- dividuals than by government initiative. Certain of the Tudor and Stuart sovereigns encouraged, and even undertook, commercial ventures, and the fact lent them a support among the trading classes which stood thenl in good stead during periods of political unrest and financial embarrassment. But the practice was never extended into a principle. The continental colonial policy, however, and not- ably that of France and Spain, was almost wholly paternal, designed to reflect the greatest possible glory on the reigning monarch. The new possessions were accordingly surrounded by a rigour of control that ultimately crippled all expansion. On the other hand, under the British policy, as exemplified on the AtlantIc seaboard of America, in the voyages of British traders to the Pacific, or in the operation of the Hudson's Bay Company in the interior of the continent, enterprise was ever untrammelled and individual. To-day, as a consequence, North Alnerica is the home of a free and progressive people, ,vhile over the southern continent still hovers the spirit of its Spanish origin,-restlessness, revolt, and a lack of the genius of organization and initiative. From the date of de Fuca's voyage, the Pacific coast bet,veen the 43rd and the 55th parallels of latitude remained for upwards of one hundred and eighty years unvisited by any European navi- 11 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS gator. Roughly, the period embraces the whole of the seventeenth, and three-quarters of the eighteenth, century. IVleanwhile, under the Spanish king's instructions, the coast of California had been surveyed again by Sebastian Vizcaino, one of whose ships reached the 43rd parallel in January, 1603. The interval also included the establishment of the Jesuit missions, and their subsequent expul- sion frOlTI the Spanish dominions; sundry voyages and discoveries in the Southern Pacific; the for- mation and disappearance of a British colony in the Falkland Islands; the establishment of Span- ish settlements and Dominican missions on the west coast of California, from which the .l\Iexi- can Creole of the present day is sprung; and, most important of all, the gradual 'waning of the power of Spain. On the whole, the record on the Pacific was one of almost sheer stagnation. On the Atlantic coast, during the same period, nations had been born and cradled. France had founded a great colony, and had lost it to England. England had planted the seeds of the United States of America. The whole eastern continent was sub- dued to the Anglo-Saxon. In the great plains of the interior, an empire within an empire, the Hud- son's Bay Company already bore sway. Still fur- ther north and ,vest, Russia had made good a foothold that was eventually to include domin- ions twice as large as the British Columbia of to-day. 12 THE VOYAGE OF THE SANTIAGO Before entering upon the period which ,vas to decide forever to whom the ascendency in these waters should belong, namely, the closing quarter of the eighteenth century, certain final efforts of Spain to perpetuate her exclusive grasp upon the Pacific must be briefly dealt with. They followed somewhat tardily upon the conclusion of an agree- ment in 1763 with Great Britain and France, whereby New Orleans and Louisiana west of the l\Iississippi passed to Spain, ,vhile Canada, Florida and the other French possessions in North America were a\varded to Great Britain. Spain had at last awakened to the fact that the nlaintenance of her sovereignty in the New \V orld called for decisive action. But official corruption, the forerunner of national decay, had long ago set in, and its effects ,vere in no place more con- spicuous than in America. Galvez, an officer of the court of Castile, was sent as vÙtitador. On his ar-. rival, he at once determined upon the establish- ment of colonies and garrisons on the west coast of California. Pursuant to this policy, an effort was made to explore the coast north of Cape Blanco, on or about the 43rd parallel, beyond the present boundary of California, to which point \Tizcaino had penetrated in 1602-3. In the year 1774, Juan Perez, accompanied by Estevan José .l\lartinez, made a notable voyage from San Bias in the corvette Santiago. He was commissioned to proceed to the 60th parallel, where it was assumed 13 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the north-west passage from the Atlantic would be found, and to explore the coast line southward. After reaching the northern islands of the Queen Charlotte group, however, Perez steered home- ward, passing some time in a bay which he called Port San Lorenzo,-identified by some as Nootka Sound on Vancouver Island, the anchorage of Cook some fourteen years later, but more prob- ably, according to recent investigations, a small bay situated between Puint Estevan and the Escalante Reef. Upon his return to l\lonterey, the Santiago 'was re-commissioned under command of Heceta, ,vith Perez as one of his officers. The corvette was accompanied on her second voyage by the schooner Sonora, commanded by the cele- brated Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, with l\laurelle as pilot. This expedition was by far the most notable of all the Spanish voyages to the north-west coast and ranks high in the annals of discovery in the Pacific. With varying fortunes, the vessels steered north- ward. Off the strait of Juan de Fuca, as they sup- posed, they were blown southward by a heavy gale. At the Isla de Dolores, subsequently named Destruction Island, a boat's crew was murdered by the Indians. The vessels became separated, and I-Ieceta, losing heart, set sail for l\:10 nterey. On the way he in part redeemed the venture from failure by sighting, from twenty miles off shore, the entrance to the great Columbia River; but, with a 14 BODEGA Y QUADRA crew so stricken ,vith scurvy that they could neither reef sail nor drop anchor, he could venture no nearer to confirm the discovery. If ,vhat he said was true, he was the first white man to see that famous stream. The prolnontory of San Rouge, near by, he probably identified. l\Ieanwhile, Quadra and l\laurelle kept bravely on, despite incredible hard- ships and a greatly dinlinished crew, passing and nan1ing a number of coast features now well-known. Anchoring finally in the Bay of Islands, on the north side of Edgecomb .l\fountain, Quadra took formal possession of the country in the name of Spain. Returning southward, he surveyed the coast line ,vith the utInost care, to discover, if possible, the Strait of Anian, or, failing that, the mouth of the Columbia; but as his examination began about thirty n1Ïles south of the proper latitude, the quest at Cape l\1endocino was abandoned. In steering for San Francisco Bay, then well-kno,vn, the Sonora entered a smaller bay to the north, to which Bodega gave his own name. This is the bay in which Sir Francis Drake is supposed to have refitted, known to-day as Drake's Bay. Four years later, Artfaga and Quadra, accompanied by the faithful l\laurelle, made still another voyage of discovery, sighting l\lount St. Elias, previously known to the Russians, and entering Prince \Vil- liam's Sound. This was the third and final voyage of the Spaniards in carrying out the policy inaugurated 15 SIR JAl\iES DOUGLAS under Galvez. Until nine years later, or the year 1788, no further attempt was made to extend the power of Spain to the northward. In the interval, events of the utmost importance had taken place, events which were ultinlately to loosen forever her hold upon North America. Another and a more aggressive nation had learned of the wealth of this coast. "Then, in the year named, the Spaniards sought once more to assert their claim, the seeds had been planted for a contro\gersy that brought them to the verge of war and all but set aflame a general European conflict. That other and more aggressive nation was, of course, Great Britain. Since the days when Sir Francis Drake had swept like a hurricane along the coast of South America, laying, perhaps unwitting- ly, in these and other exploits, the foundation of the naval supremacy of his country, England had risen from a fourth or fifth rate power, with little territory, limited population and resources, and a small and irregular army, to the first rank among the powers of Europe. The triumph was almost wholly one of commerce. After the defeat of the Armada, trade had based itself upon the aval prowess of England and had thrust her steadily for- ,vard. By the end of the seventeenth century she had eclipsed her greatest rival of commerce on the high seas-the Dutch. So, too, in the eighteenth century, the trading class of Great Britain was the 16 GREAT BRITAIN IN THE PACIFIC first to recognize the importance of the Pacific. The time was opportune. England was herself firmly established on the Atlantic coast. France was no longer a power in America; the Revo- lution and Napoleon were as yet hidden in the political future. Spain's recent endeavour to retain her grasp on the Pacific and to justify her claims to exclusive rights in its waters was but the final effort of an expiring influence. Russia, a more to be dreaded antagonist, had already for- tified herself in the extreme north-west and was known to have extended to the New ,V orld her traditional policy of encroachment. Having con- quered Siberia and established a trade with the natives of the Alaskan archipelago, there had been created a series of vested rights, more embarrassing to Great Britain at this juncture than all the plans of France and Spain combined. England, therefore, was alive to her interests when she decided to send expeditions at this tinle to delimit the shore line of the continent. But the impelling motive was commercial-to discover the passage, supposed, somewhere between the 40th and 60th parallels, to lead to the Atlantic. The key to the oriental trade, more important even than the New ,V orld itself, was thus the objective of the intrepid Cook and Vancouver, and the fact is eminently characteristic of British policy. It was left, too, in the end, to the enterprise of commerce-to the Hudson's Bay Company and the N orth- West Company-to con.. 17 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI.JAS serve for England her splendid domain in "\ì\T estern America. The French Revolution and the ambition of Napoleon withdre,v her energies, at a critical moment, for the defence of her own shores and the . preservation of Europe; and these far off lands, at that time as little known in the United States as in the Old 'V orld itself, were left largely to ,vork out their own destinies. The era of exploration that dawned with the appearance of the British trader in these waters, was included within the closing quarter of the eighteenth century. It was the final and, in many respects, the most brilliant in the history of dis- covery in the Pacific. Great Bntain played the leading rôle, but Russia, France and Spain were only less active. The United States also plunged with all the ardour of young nationhood into the quest of glory over seas. \Vith the eager spirit which had animated the earlier centuries of dis- covery, the unexplored remainder of AInerica was now made kno,vn to geographers, and the outlines of the continent charted with approximate ac- curacy. The ad\Tantages of Great Britain lay in the superiority of her methods of navigation, the ability of her seamen, the strength of her com- nlercial fleet and her ,vorldwide trade, whereby she was able to utilize immediately and to the fullest extent the wealth of her discoveries. Thus it happened that of all the nations her efforts were the most persistent and her work the most pains- 18 THE NORTH-'YEST PASSAGE taking and exact, and it ,vas ll1àinly through her navigators that the ,vorld ".as finally enlightened as to the character of the north-west coast. Spain and Russia, though they sent out many expedi- tions, added, in cornparison, but little of value. The Spaniards, in particular, pursued a policy of secrecy which robbed them of ll1uch credit. But the inferiority of their mathematical instruments would still have left thell1 handicapped in the race with Great Britain. The work of Cook and Vancouver demanded qualities of skill, as well as of courage and endurance, that are not often dup- licated in a single generation. It is well to repeat, in connection with the voy- ages of these two great cOlnmanders, that their primary object was to survey the north-,vest coast line, within specified paraHels of latitude, and to dis- cover whether any opening existed such as might lead to the Atlantic Ocean by the supposititious North-west Passage, for the disco\?ery of which a reward of twenty thousand pounds ,vas offered by the British admiralty. The narrative of Juan de Fuca, though long discredited, had not been for- gotten. The latitude of de Fuca's opening was between the 47th and 48th parallel. There was also the reputed strait of Adlniral de Fonte, an- other and wholly mythical explorer of the seven- teenth century, near the 53rd parallel. The fam- ous river of Oregon, reported by Jonathan Car- ver, might even connect by some mysterious chan- 19 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS nel with the waters of the long sought Strait of Anian. I t is not the first instance in history in which a chimera, having laid hold of the popu- lar imagination, paved the way for results more Ílnportant than were claimed for the original fancy. In 1778, the famous navigator, Captain James Cook, arrived on the north-west coast of America. He had two ships, the Resolution and the Dis- covery, and his instructions from the British gov- ernment 'were to examine the coast line from about 45 0 north latitude to the Arctic Ocean, and to ascertain whether any large rivers, inlets or arm.s of the sea extended to the eastward. Cook first sighted the coast in latitude 44 0 north; but, having been blown off shore by bad weather, the strait of Juan de Fuca escaped his observation. Land was next seen in the vicinity of a large sound, latitude 49 0 30' north, in which Cook anchored, l\larch 29th, 1778. After a few weeks spent in refitting his vessels and refreshing their crews, he continued on his northward voyage, his men having obtained a valuable quantity of furs during their stay. Cook named the bay in which he had passed this interval King George's Sound; but understanding afterwards that it was called Nootka by the natives, it was re-named, and has ever since been known as N ootka Sound. It was Cook's intention, on leaving Nootka, to proceed as speedily as possible to the part of 20 CAPTAIN COOK the coast lying under the 65th parallel of lati- tude; the violence of the weather, however, again prevented him from approaching the land for some days, and he was forced to leave unvisited the region near the 53rd parallel where geogra- phers had placed the strait of Fonte. Cook accord- ingly denied the existence both of :Fonte's and de Fuca's channels. After discovering and naming the two large bays known as Prince William's Sound and Cook's Inlet, and having stayed a short time at U nalaska, Cook proceeded to the Arctic Ocean, passing through the strait which he named Behring in honour of the Danish navigator who had first discovered it. Turning about, he set sail for the Sandwich Islands, where he ,vas killed, Febru- ary 14th, 1779. The ships then returned to Eng- land. It was the report of these crews respecting the boundless wealth in furs-to be had alrnost for the asking on this coast-that aroused the Euro- pean nations to action, and incited them, on Cook's narrative being given to the world in 1784, to plan still further expeditions and discoveries. Had an independent state arisen in that early time on the north-west coast, it might fittingly have chosen the sea-otter as its emblem. To the early navigators of the North Pacific the sea-otter offered the same lure of fortune as the gold and silver of Peru to the soldiers of Spain. The tales of the dangers of the chase and of the enormous profits 21 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS read like romance. So eager and relentless was the trade that the sea-otter was already rare ,vhen British Colulnbia placed the wapiti and the mountain sheep on its escutcheon; it has now all but vanished, leaving no trace of the time when it played so important a part in the history of the region. "Tith its discovery by Cook a new era be- gins in the story of maritime adventure in the Pacific. The earliest expedition having the trade in otter primarily in view was made by James Hanna, an Englishman, in the year 1785. The voyage was eminently successful. Otter skins were purchased from the natives for trinkets, and sold at enormous- ly enhanced prices in China, then the world's market for furs. About the same time, Guise, l\leares and Tipping came from England on a similar errand. .l\leares spent the winter of 1786-7 in Prince "Tilliam's Sound, ,,,here lnore than half his crew died of scurvy. Portlock and Dixon, fur traders sailing from London in 1785, lnade the discovery of the separation of the Queen Charlotte group fron1 the mainland. The discovery was confinned in 1788 by Duncan, who, with Colnett, arrived on the coast prior to the departure of Portlock and Dixon. This and the numerous openings found in the shore-line, all presumably channels extending far to the east,vard, led to the supposition that the entire north-western portion of the American con- tinent might be a vast collection of islands, and 22 '"THE SEA-OTTER the story of t.he mythical de Fonte's voyage again began to gain credit. It was at this time also that the name of the old Greek pilot, Juan de Fuca, was rescued froln oblivion by the re-discovery of the broad afln of the sea into which he declared he had sailed in 1592. Barkley, an Englishman, in command of the Imperial Eagle, a trader for furs under the flag of the Austrian East India Company, was, according to one version, the means of rehabilitating de Fuca's fame. After the sale of the Imperial Eagle in the East Indies in 1788, Barkley made a second voyage to the north-\vest coast in the brig Halcyon. He was accompanied on both voyages by his wife, the first white woman, so far as known, to visit these shores. 'Vith the separation of the American colonies from Great Britain, a new element was introduced into this growing commerce of the Pacific. 'The moment the bond was broken, every skipper in New England seemed to turn his thoughts seaward. Great Britain being occupied in Europe and her powerful competition therefore withdrawn, the American ships were free to carry the new flag wherever the ambition of trade might lead. And it led far. Unrestrained, its sailors swept southward to Cuba, to South America, and around Cape Horn. In the year 1787, they made their first voyage to the Pacific and the north- west coast, the ship Columbia under I{endrick, and the sloop Lady 1Vasllington, under Gray of Boston, doubling Cape 23 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS Horn together. The Lady 1Vaslzington arrived at Nootka on the 17th September, 1788, and remained there with her consort during the whole of the following winter. They were still in N ootka Sound in 1789. The Columbia, now by an exchange of commanders, under Gray, returned to Boston by way of China, arriving in August, 1790, when she was received amid great rejoicings, medals being struck in honour of the ship that had first carried the flag of the United States almost fifty thousand miles around the world. l\Iean,vhile the Lady 1l T ashington, under Kendrick, remained in N ootka Sound. In six ,veeks Gray had refitted and had started again for the Pacific. During' this voyage he was destined to make one of the greatest discoveries in the annals of his country. On l\Iay II th, 1792, he entered the mouth of the Columbia River, accomplishing ,vhat generations of navigators, Cook and Vancouver among them, had sought in vain to do. On leaving the river on l\lay 20th, he gave it the name of his ship. The honour of the discovery has been claimed by the Spaniards, and for Broughton, the lieutenant of Vancouver, who subsequently entered the riyer and sailed a hundred miles against its cur- rent in the arn1ed brig Chatham ; but it undoubt- edly belongs to Gray, one of the most modest and worthy of the heroes of the Pacific. If the world places Cook and Vancouver in the niches of its naval heroes, Gray must be placed between them. 24 LA PÉROUSE For Kendrick, the comrade of Gray, has been claimed the credit of re-discovering the strait of Juan de Fuca, though the matter is one of con- troversy. l\letcalfe, a citizen of the United States, visited N ootka in 1789 ; and Ingraham explored the coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands in 1791 in the brig Hope. The latter left a very important description of the geography and natural history of the islands, and of the language, manners and customs of the natives. "\\Tith the exception, how- ever, of the discovery of the Columbia by Gray, the passage of the strait of Juan de }1'uca by Kendrick, and the cruise of the Hope, nothing of special importance was achieved by American enterprise at that period. For a time their traders wcre acti \-e and numerous, but they followed trade alone, and cared little for discovery or exploration. The north-west coast about this period attrac- ted the attention of other nations than Great Britain and the United States. La Pérouse, a distinguished naval officer of France, spent three months in 1788, under orders from his govern- ment, between the 52nd and 54th parallels, mak- ing a scientific examination of the coast. He was followed in 1791 by Etienne l\larchand, who, in a merchant ship, followed much the same course, leaving an account of his voyage in three volumes. l\lalaspina, from whom the strait of that name is called, in the same year endeavour- ed, with t,vo Spanish ships, to deterInine in more 25 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS northern latitudes the existence of the Strait of Anian. Important also in this connection was the attempt of Elisa, in the summer of 1790, to explore the strait of Juan de Fuca, his lieutenant, Quirnper, examining both shores for a distance of one hundred miles, but being unable, for lack of time, to follo,v the many channels and inlets the general direction of which was noted. l\Iany Spanish names were given; few of them have survived. The Spaniards undertook a permanent establishment at Friendly Cove, N ootka, in 1790 ; and in 1792 endeavoured to form a settlement at Neah Bay, near Cape Flat- tery. From the former basis, Elisa, its commandant, sent Fidalgo, his lieutenant, to examine the coast to northward occupied by the Russians, and to en- quire into the nature of their operations. lIe ac- quired but little geographical inforlnation of value. One of the Russian ships reported by him was that which, in command of Joseph Billings, in 1790, visited U nalaska, N odiak and Prince 'Vil- liam's Sound. A voyage of the British captain, l\Ieares, in 1788, which is a part of this fur-trading chronicle, owes its importance, not to any achievement of the expedition itself, but to the diplomatic results which it was the means, sometime later, of bring- ing about. War with Spain was, for :it short season, imminent, and the termination of the "N ootka Affair," which had its origin in l\Ieares's operations at Friendly Cove, gave to Britain the control of an 26 l\IEARES AT NOOTI{A important territory, though the terms of the settle- ment itself, as will be seen, opened the door to a further series of controversies which were not finally laid at rest until the fixing of the Oregon boundary in 1846. In the year 1788 l\leares was at Canton, China, engaged, with the assistance of some Eng- lish merchants, in fitting out an expedition of two vessels for the American trade,-the Felice and the Iphigenia .l,rllbiana, comlnanded by himself and Captain 'VilliaIn Douglas, respectively. The ships, though British property and navigated by British subjects, sailed under the Portuguese flag, and were ostensibly owned by Don Cavallo & Co., of l\Iacao, the object being to escape the heavy dues levied by the Chinese authorities on the goods of nations other than the Portuguese. On February 12th, the lphigenia sailed for Cook's River, and the Felice for N ootka Sound, the latter arriv- ing on l\lay 15th. The most notable native chiefs of N ootka at that time were l\Iaquinna and Callicum, with wholn l\feares cultivated friend- ly relations, and by whom, and by the natives gen- erally, he was warmly welcomed. It was l\Ieares's purpose to establish at this point a post \vhich might become the basis of the fur trade of the future. 'Vith this in view, he purchased from l\Iaquinna a tract of laud on the shore of Friendly Cove for \vhich he paid some eight or ten sheets of copper and other articles. Here he erected a sub- stantial structure surrounded with breastworks and 27 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS armed with one cannon. The British flag was hoisted and for the first time ,vaved above a formal British possession on this coast. At Nootka, Meares also built the first ship launched in what is now British Columbia-the North-wcst Amcrica. Later he explored the coast southward, narrowly missing the mouth of the Columbia, and on his return en- tered and examined the strait of Juan de Fuca for some distance, taking possession of it in the name of Great Britain. His ship, after again reaching Friendly Cove, was joined by her consort the Iphi- genia frorn Cook's River, with a large cargo of sea- otter. I.later l\leares sailed for China with the furs, while the Iphigenia and the North-west Am.erica repaired to the Sandwich Islands. The succeeding events which enter into the fam- ous N ootka affair are too intricate to be more than mentioned here. Douglas, with the Iphigenia and the N ortlt-west A merica returned to N ootka in the following year for the purpose of continuing the fur trade. Thereupon both vessels were seized by a Spanish ship of war commanded by l\lartinez, who was under orders to assert the sovereignty of the king of Spain throughout the Pacific Ocean. Nootka, which the Spanish called Port San Lor- enzo, was claimed by l\f, artinez by right of dis- covery. Douglas, however, was able to show from a chart of the voyage of the Santiago in 1775 that Cook, and not the Spaniard, was the discoverer of Nootka Sound. The Iphigenia was thereupon 28 THE NOOTKA AFFAIR released by Mat:tinez, and the greater part of his stores returned to Douglas, with the warning, how- ever, that he was to trade no more on that coast. Douglas subsequently sailed to the Queen Char- lotte Islands and thence to China. Soon after, the British ships Princess Royal and Argonaut, sent from l\lacao by the Associated Companies to trade on the north-west coast, were seized in like manner, and, with the North-west America were pressed into the service of Spain. The crew of the N01.th-west A 117erica was sent to China on the American ship Columbia then in those waters; but the crews of the two other ships were deported to San Bias, where they were treated with cruelty. Nootka was taken formal possession of and was occupied by Spain until 1795. The dispute which immediately arose between the governments of Great Britain and Spain forms one of the most important chapters in the history of the north-west coast. Not only a matter of moment in itself, it was the basis for most of the controversy that followed over the possession of this territory. Spain, as we have seen, still claimed the exclusive right to the western seas. All foreign vessels found ,vithout license in these waters were regarded as enemies, even though belonging to a nation at peace with the king. No other country, moreover, was held to have rights in any territory to reach which it was necessary to pass around Cape Horn or through the Straits of Magellan. 29 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI.JAS . Such were the fancies still nursed by Spain in the eighteenth century. It was doubtless the final consciousness that the encroachment.s of' other nations on her traditional sphere of influence ,vould effectively overthrow all semblance of her right to exclusive sovereignty that induced Spain now to make a final attempt to co.nfirm her original claim. \Vhatever may be said of the un- doubted priority of Spanish enterprise in the Pacific, England had been more active in the ex- ploration of' the north-west portion of it, and had inaugurated, and now enjoyed, the greater part of the trade in that part of the ,vorld. "Tithout other grounds of sovereignty than the papal concession of three hundred years before, which embraced half the area of the world and included a continent ,vhich was not then known to exist, Spain's case, on the threshold of the nineteenth century, and within sixty years of the freedoln of Italy, stood on a tottering basis. When the news of the seizures reached England, a vigorous protest was iInmediately lodged with the Spanish government. Pitt, then at the zenith of his power, united a profound knowledge of Spanish decrepitude with a wholesome belief in the ability of Great Britain to defend her own interests. The Spanish government, more skilled in the arts of intrigue than of statesmanship, and seek- ing at first to evade the issue, ,vas met with a dem- onstration in force. The principle that "British sub- 30 THE NOOTKA CONVENTION jects have an indisputable right to the enjoyment of a free and uninterrupted navigation, COlnmerce and fishery, and to the possession of such establish- ments as they should form, with the consent of the natives of the country, and not occupied by any other European nation," was enunciated with emphasis. Spain, whose power had rapidly de- clined, could not risk a \var with England. After repeated conferences, she agreed to restore the seized vessels, to indemnify the owners for their losses, and to give satisfaction to the dignity of the British Cro,vn. It was understood at the saIne time that the Spanish declaration "was not to preclude or prejudice the ulterior discussion of any right which His Catholic l\lajesty might claim to form an exclusive establishment at N ootka Sound." The amount of indemnity was fixed by a commission at $210,000. This was handed over to the owners of the property which had been seized, and N ootka and the adjoining territory were restored to the British Crown. Into the final settlement a number of considera- tions entered which deprived Great Britain of much of the strength of her position. Pitt was undoubtedly determined, in the event of war, to strike a blow at the Spanish Empire in America. Spain, however, by the terms of the Family Com- pact, had the ear of France. The times were not happy for England. The French Revolution was already brewing; Europe was arming; and a series 31 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS of continental alliances left Great Britain isolated. "Tith a diIninished credit, the government leaned towards a peaceful solution of the difficulty; and apart froln the restitution of property and the re- paration made for losses and acts of violence, the treaty left the situation in the north-west coast to all intents unaltered. In parliament it \vas vigorously attacked as a capitulation to Spain. Fox pointed out that it enlarged the area. of dispute, and pre- dicted a renewal of the difficulty. In this, time proved Fox right. The prestige of the country, however, had been vindicated; and the govern- ment, with a large majority at its back, was glad to be rid of an embarrassing situation. In the light of history it may be regretted that motives of temporary expediency, in this as in other instances, should have dictated the policy of Great Britain with regard to her interests in America. There were at that period only two other claimants to the Pacific coast, Spain and Russia. The latter had undoubtedly no rights south of the 60th parallel, while the former had established no title to the coast north of the 38th parallel which was superior to that of Great Britain. A decisive stroke might have secured the states of Washington, Oregon and a large portion of California, for all time to come. Pursuant to the terms of the Nootka conven- tion, commissioners were appointed by the govern- ments of Spain and Great Britain to effect the 32 VANCOUVER AND QUADRA formal act of restitution. The men selected were George ,r ancouver, and one whose intrepidity has been already witnessed, Bodega y Quadra. 'V or- thier representatives of the two great powers, it ,vould have been impossible to choose. Steadfast as they both ,vere in enforcing the claims of their sovereigns, and zealous to the last degree for the rights of their respective countries, each, neverthe- less, could recognize in the other high courage, splendid ability and true greatness of character. Vhile honour forbade compromise, they neverthe- less became firm friends and to the last maintained the highest admiration for each other. Their names will forever remain associated as two of the great- est in the history of the north-west coast. Though the commissioners had explicit instruc- tions from their governments as to the manner in which Nootka should be handed over, they inter- preted their orders in a widely different spirit. Quadra maintained that restitution ,vas required only of the buildings and lands that had been occupied by British subjects; and as, from due inquiry, he could find no evidence of such occupa- tion, he argued that there was nothing to be paid for by Spain. Vancouver, on the other hand, held that, under the terms of the convention, Great Britain was entitled to the possession of the whole of the territory surrounding N ootka and Clayo- quote VVidely divergent evidence was offered in support of the opposing claims. The immediate 33 SIR .JAl\lES DOUGLAS result was that the commissioners, unable to come to a satisfactory understanding, referred the dis- pute back to their respective governments, Noot- ka remaining in the interval under the Spanish flag. Vancouver with his two ships, the Ðið'covery commanded by himself, and the brig Cllatlta11l, under Broughton, who had previously surveyed the coast from Cape l\Iendocino northward, now pro- ceeded to the second and lnost important part of his commission-the thorough exploration of the whole north-west shore line. The aim, as ever, \vas to solve the problem of the north-west passage; it was also to establish England's claim to the coast between K ev{ Spain on the south, and Russian .r\.merica on the north. The ,york of 'T ancouver and his lieutenants in this connection was so Ininute as to be final. The summers of 1792, 1798 and 17 4 ,vere spent on the coast, and the obser- vations included every bay, cape and channel from San Francisco to Behring Sea. The winters were passed at the Sand"wich Islands. On his untiring energy success attended from first to last, and his work remains the most extensive nautical survey ever completed in one expedition. To Vancouver, accordingly, ,ve owe in large measure the nomen- clature of the North Pacific coast. In the names which he chose lnany were of persons distinguish- ed in the official life of his day; lnany were of humble members of his crew. 84 RESTORATION OF NOOTKA Vancouver sailed, for the last time, from the north-west coast on October 16th, 1794. On Christ- mas Day of that year, being still at sea, he finds it of interest to record that the cre'v did not fail to drink in silence to the memory of Quadra, who had died some time before. He ,vas to be followed soon by Vancouver himself. The friendship of the two men was cemented by the name given by Van- couver to the great island of the mid-Pacific coast, for long afterwards kno\vn as "Quadra and V an- couver Island." In the efflux of time, the Spaniards having abandoned the coast altogether, the name Quadra 'was dropped and the temporary triumph at Nootka ,vas thus avenged at the expense of one of the most noble of his race. In the settlement of the N ootka affair also, \T ancouver's view in the end pre- vailed, and on the morning of l\Iarch 28th, 1795, Lieutenant Pierce and Brigadier-General Alca, representing respectively the governments of Eng- land and Spain, completed the act of restitution, and the British flag \vas hoisted, never again to be hauled down. \Vhen Vancouver was at Point Gray, in the Gulf of Georgia, near the site of the present city of \T ancouver, he fell in with two Spanish vessels of "Tar, the Sutil and the J..1Iexicana, com- manded respectively by Lieutenants Galiano and ,r aldez. They were small and badly equipped, and they were the last sent by Spain into the North Atlantic Ocean for purposes of discovery. The 85 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS expedition has this distinction, however, that it is the only one, since that of Vizcaino, of which an adequate account has been given to the world with the sanction of the Spanish government. The journal of Galiano and Valdez was published at lVladrid in 1802, by order of the king, with an introduction which included an historical sketch of the earlier voyages of the Spaniards on the coasts of America north of l\lexico. The introduction is now, naturally, the most valuable part of the work. Notwithstanding its activity for a time, Spanish exploration had resulted in nothing. No colonies were established; no trade was built up; no terri- tory was acquired. A few names dotting the maps of the coast-Haro, Valdez, Texada, San Juan, and the like-are all that remain to show the once all-powerful influence of Spain. The ma- jority even of these have been replaced by the names given by English navigators, particularly those of ,r ancouver, and are known to-day only to the Inap- maker and the student of early coast history. It may be added that Great Britain herself, for a long time after the date of the Nootka Treaty, ceased to take further interest in the territory which it affected. The victory, in fact, was one of diplomacy alone. For many years a thousand miles of the Pacific coast was in reality a "no man's land," and it is in no sense due to the prescience of the statesmen of the early nineteenth century that 86 RUSSIA IN Al\IERICA it is British territory to-day. We must remember, of course, in mitigation of the indifference felt by Great Britain as to its future, the circumstances and conditions of the times, the remoteness of the region and the almost total lack of knowledge concerning it. It was the fur trade, not the nation, which pushed its way overland into this western empire, and carried with it the supremacy of the British flag and the authority of British law. Several terrible encounters with the Indians occurred when the trade was at its height. In 1803, the American ship Boston was destroyed by the natives of Nootka Sound, all the crew being murdered, with the exception of the ar- mourer and the sailmaker who were kept in slavery for four years by that chief 1tIaquinna who figured so prominently in Vancouver's and Quadra's day. In 1805, the A tahualpa, of Rhode Island, was attacked by the savages of l\1illbank Sound, and her captain, mate and six seamen killed, after which the sailors succeeded in repelling the assail- ants and saving the vessel. In the same manner the Tonquin of Boston, the first vessel of the As- torians, was in June, 1811, attacked by the natives while at anchor in Clayoquot Sound and the entire crew massacred. We may turn now to the other great power that had entrenched itself, even more securely than 87 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI AS Great Britain, on the north-western coast, a power that has menaced at more points than one the advance of the British Empire. In 1788 Haro, on the return of a Spanish expedition from Alaska, wrote to San BIas that he had found Russian establishments between the 59th and 60th parallels. The results of that occupation were still alive in the Behring Sea and Alaska boundary disputes of the present generation. In Siberia, as in the northern part of the Alnerican continent, the stimulus to early adventure and exploration had come from the fur trade. By the middle of the se\renteenth century the Russians had pushed their way into that vast and desolate territory, and, early in the eighteenth, had com- pleted the conquest of the whole of northern Asia. Rich in furs of all kinds, the newly acquired possess- ion afforded a fruitful field for exploitation, the n10re so on account of its proximity to the markets of China, with which trade relations were speedily established. Communication was provided by means of caravans, a system somewhat analogous to the brigades of the Hudson's Bay Company. But in trade it is what lies just beyond that lures. Expedi- tions from the northern rivers of Siberia had by 1648 found their way around the north-eastern ex- tremity of Asia into Behring Strait, and at least one vessel was driven by storlll in that year upon the coast of I{amtchatka. After repeated adventures of this kind and the establishment of intercourse 88 DISCOVERIES OF BEHRING with the natives of this far-off region, Kamtchatka was definitely included in the territory of the traders. But accounts were no'v brought back of still another continent looming beyond the islands of these northern seas. \Vas it America? Or was it a ne,v land altogether-wedged in between the eastern shores of Asia and the western limits of America? Peter the Great, his ambition unap- peased by the subjugation of Siberia, resolved to emulate the conquests of his European rivals in the New World. To this end he equipped an ex- pedition under Vitus Behring, a Dane attracted to the Russian service, whose heroic career received scant justice from his o,vn age. Sailing from Kamt- chatka in 1728, Behring passed through the strait which separates Asia frOlll America and satisfied himself on the then disputed point whether the continents were two or one. In that and the follow- ing year, however, he did little to determine the re- lative position of tbe new land. It is unnecessary, for the present purpose, to detail the various stages by which the conclusions of Behring's first voyage were confir-med and amplified. A later expedition, under the same unflinching cap- tain, set out after an interval of three years, and was prolonged until his death. It succeeded in reaching the 53rd parallel of latitude, discover- ing the Shumagin Islands and the aborigines. The latter were, in the main, like those of N orthem Asia, and though they had never seen 89 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS white men before, they had knives and other articles of iron and copper, which it was supposed they had obtained through trade with the Siberian natives. Behring's final expedition was one of terrible hard- ships. He was by this time old and imbecile. Worn by sickness and anxiety, he died, on November 28th, 1741, on an island on which his ship had been driven by stress of weather. The island was afterwards named in his honour, as well as the great northern sea and strait in which so much of his activity had been displayed. With Behring were associated Chirikoff, scarcely less unfortunate, and the naturalist Groyers, who also lost his life. The last voyage of Behring had one very im- portant result : it laid the foundations of the trade in furs between Russia and the Amel"ican continent. In the privations of the expedition, provisions failed, and the crew were forced to subsist for a time on the flesh of sea-otter-" sea beaver" as they were called by the Russians-which they hunted and killed. The skins were preserved, and on the return of the ships brought extravagant prices from the Chinese merchants. News of this character was not long in reaching the ears of the Siberian traders. From this chance beginning, a series of private expeditions were soon racing each other across the Pacific with the object of the new trade in otter. They were continued in ever-increasing numbers over a period of a quarter of a century or In ore. Incidentally they added much to the knowledge 40 THE PRO!\IISHI ENIKS of the islands between Kamtchatka and Am- erICa. In all the long annals of commercial enterprise, lawful and unrighteous, the traffic of these Russian adventurers has been surpassed in horrors by one and one only-the African slave trade. The vessels were small, many of them built of green planks lashed with deer sinew or thongs of walrus hide to the timbers, and caulked váth moss. The traders themselves, known to the Russians as Prornish- leniks, were the riff-raff of Siberia, criminals often, though sometimes of noble, even of royal, lineage, amenable only to passion and the law of greed. Being nearly all landsmen, they sailed usually by dead reckoning alone. It is not surprising that numbers of their crazy craft were annually cast away. The crews were the victims of unheard-of cruelties, as well as suffering every conceivable hardship from cold, starvation and disease. In addi- tion, they were attacked and murdered on every available opportunity by the natives, in revenge for the enforcement of levies, the debauching of their women, and the slaughter and enslavement of their men by the traders,-ending in a state of open war that twice wiped Russian settlement from the coast of America. Yet, prompted as were these expeditions by lust and avarice, accompanied by many of the most revolting atrocities that ever disgraced the name of humanity, it is impossible to withhold a tribute of admiration for the energy 41 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS with which voyage after voyage was made, or for the courage, stubborn as it was reckless, displayed by the traders amidst their appalling difficulties. As a matter of fact, the outrages of the place and period were not confined to the Promishleniks, but characterized the ,vhole Russian administration. They were contrary to the express instructions of the government; but, as the Russian proverb said: "God was high in the Heavens, and the Czar was .{.' " ar away. The immediate successor of Peter the Great continued the policy of expansion begun by that sovereign. Synd, Krenitzin and I.levaschef com- Inanded explorations to America between 1764 and 1769. The first cargo of furs to enter Canton by ship was carried by a party of Polish exiles who escaped from Kamtchatka, and under the Polish flag cruised through Behring Sea and mnong the Aleutian Islands. rrhe story of this desperate venture is in itself nlaterial for a romance. No ex- peditions of note followed for some years after- \vards. Up to the time of Cook, notwithstanding the number of Russian vessels that had been in Alaskan waters, no exact geographical knowledge had been gained respecting that portion of the coast, and the errors in recorded latitudes and longitudes were sOlnetimes very great. In 1781, Ivan Golikoff, the celebrated Gregory Skelikoff, and other Russian fur merchants, or- ganized themselves into a formal trading associa- 42 THE RUSSIAN Al\fERICAN COl\IP ANY tion. There was need enough for organization of some sort. Four years after Behring's discovery of the sea-otter, seventy-seven Russian concerns were hunting in the islands of Alaska. This was the beginning of the Alaskan fur monopoly, later to become of international irnportance. A rival com- pany was formed in 1797, but was soon after ab- sorbed into what was known as the Skelikoff United Trading Company. Still another company was projected in the following year. In 1709, how- ever, the Emperor Paul took all the rival traders under his protection, consolidated their interests, and granted them a charter for twenty years as the Russian American Company, with sole control over the coasts of America north of the 55th paral- lel of latitude. Their obligations were: to organize settlements; to promote agriculture, trade and discovery; to propagate the Greek Catholic faith; and, without interfering with the rights of other nations, to extend the influence and sovereignty of Russia in the Pacific. The capital was fixed at ninety-eight thousand silver roubles. Without going into details as to this highly or- ganized company which, in the nature and extent of its powers and in the vastness of the territory over which it ruled, resembled the Hudson's Bay Company, it may be stated that its sway was virtually absolute in the country, even to the life of the inhabitants. All persons and property were under the control of the chief director, 48 SIR JAl\iES DOUGLAS who lived in Kadiak, and from whom there ,vas no appeal except to a board of governors far away at Irkutsk. Its regulations were in general just and humane; but their enforcement was entrusted to men with whom justice and humanity were sub- servient always to interest and expediency, and sometimes to baser passions. Baranoff, one of the most picturesque figures of his time, ruling for twenty years like a despot over the colonies from his castle overlooking the village of Sitka, may be taken as the outstanding type of the local Russian governor, iron-hearted, iron-framed, bold, shrewd, unscrupulous, alternating days of toil with nights of revel on raw and fiery vodlt'a, a Peter the Great in Ininiature among vagabonds and adven- turers. I t was part of the policy of Russia, in pursuance of a method already traditional, to establish her power in America to the exclusion of all other nations north of the Spanish zone. To this end, dur- ing the régime of Baranoff, Von Resanoff was dis- patched to plant Russian colonies at the mouth of the Columbia and on the Californian coast. In this he failed. Searching for the estuary of the Col- umbia,-at the very time, it may be noted, that Lewis and Clark, the pioneers of discovery over- land from the United States, were leaving their winter quarters at Clatsop,-he either missed it altogether or was unable to cross the bar, and so passed on to California. Later, however, in 1812, a 44 LATER RUSSIAN ENTERPRISE Russian colony was established on Bodega Bay by Kuskoff, and was known for many years as the Ross, that is, the Russian, settlement. I t con- tinued with varying fortunes until 1841, when it was purchased by the American trader, Sutter, for $30,000. These operations are of importance in the light of the claim later advanced that the Russian A merican Company controlled the whole Pacific coast of America and adjacent islands, from Behring Strait to the mouth of the Columbia. That famous company, it may be added, main- tained its existence through a long and chequered career, renewing its charter from time to time until 1861, when it fell into decay and was not again revived. A word may be added in completion of this hasty outline. Baranoff died in 1819, broken-hearted by his recall. Thereafter, a more enlightened and humañe policy was introduced, and many of the old abuses were removed or abated. Baron W ran- gell, who had followed Baranoff as director-gen- eral, was succeeded in 1836 by KuprianofL In 1840, Adolphus Etoline, a young admiral of noble birth, became governor. The splendour of his rule was in startling contrast with the ways of Baranoff, who lived in Spartan simplicity and ruled "rithout ruffles. In still greater contrast was the luxury of Etoline's castle with the squalor of the village surrounding it. It was Etoline whom Douglas visited as an officer of the Hudson's Bay 45 SIR JAl\tIES DOUGLAS Company in 1842, in connection with affairs of bus i- ness between the two companies. During the period of Russian occupation, and especially between the date of Cook's voyage and the beginning of the nineteenth century, continuous activity was displayed in the exploration of the north-west coast, with more particular reference to the portion now included in Alaska. In addition to the voyages already mentioned, many expeditions of note were undertaken both on private and official initiative. Those of Lastochkin and Pribyloffin 1787; of Ismyloff, Becharefl: and Delareff in 1788; of Joseph Billings and Martin Sauer in 1769 and 1791 ; of Khwostoff and Davidoff in 1802 ; of Krusenstern and Lisiansky in 1803 and subsequent years; of Kiskoff in 1808; of Kotzebue in 1816 and 1823; of Baron Wrangell and Etoline in 1820 and 1822; are worthy of special mention. The most important of all, no doubt, were the explorations of Krusen- stem and Lisiansky, of .which a full account is given in the journal of Krusenstern himself, a mine of information on all points relating to Russian enterprise on the North Pacific coast. The story of Russia in North America is singu- larly sordid and unattractive where it is not merely terrible. The stem Alaskan coast has its intervals of warmth and sunshine; but there is no time in the period of Russian sovereignty that is not gloomy and forbidding, overcast with heavy clouds of human suffering and despair. 46 THE PASSING OF THE NAVIGATOR In the foregoing pages it has been sought to trace, in outline, the salient features of that long and stirring period during which the coast line of America, stretching for twelve thousand miles from Cape Horn to Behring Sea, became kno\vn-at what a price of sacrifice and endeavourJ-to human enterprise. The story of the period, it was seen, divided itself naturally into three parts, correspond- ing in the main with the activities of three great nations,-Spain, Russia and Great Britain. \Ve may include the last even here, because, while her oc- cupation of the middle coast was never until later times as definite as that of her rivals in the north and south, she was finally, after a long ihterval of diplomacy, to establish herself permanently within her sphere, while the others have vanished from the continent. 'Vith Vancouver, the era of discovery came to an end. Thenceforward the field of the ex- plorer was shifted to the Arctic Ocean, where his continued activity is of interest as showing the tenacity with which the British clung to the idea of a north-west passage. l\ferchant vessels from the United States and other countries continued meanwhile to come and go at intervals. With the establishment of the Hudson's Bay Con)pany at Fort Vancouver in 1824 a regular trade with England, by way of Cape Horn, sprang up. The date of the Beaver, the first steamship in the Paci- fic, was 1835. The coastwise trade developed later, until, within a few years, as the Pacific became 47 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS more and more the meeting place of East and West, the merchant marine employed in its service had multiplied into a powerful fleet. We have now, however, to turn from the tale of seafaring trade and adventure to the pioneers of travel overland, to the scouts and convoys of the fur-traders who, by sled, ox-cart and canoe, opened up, over a net- work of trails and great rivers as perIlous as the ocean itself, a way of communication across the plains and mountains of the west and on to the Pacific. - 48 CHAPTER II THE TRAVELLER OVERLAND I N the record of coastwise exploration, of ,vhich a brief account was given in the preceding chapter, it \vill have been noted that the explorers, if they landed at all, did not ordinarily venture beyond gunshot of the waters whereon their vessels rode, and that the information they brought back related entirely to the" configuration of the shore or to the animal life which teemed in the adjacent seas. The traveller overland was scarcely possible until the sailor had supplied him with a sure ob- jective; but his advent, when at last he came, had a more immediate significance for the country. He came as the forerunner of the trade that had already opened up the ,vhole of the interior con- tinent and that is notable in history for the fierce rivalry with which it sought new worlds to con- quer. 'Vith the first dip of his paddle in the tumul- tuous upper waters of the western slope, the hour of civilization for that mighty region may be said to have struck; while with the firm establishment of the fur trade as the dominant local influence we are come at once to a period from which condi- tions began-tentatively at first, but in accordance with a definite process-to take on the form ,vhich was destined to be final. The sailor showed the 49 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS way, but it was the overland traveller who entered in and took possession. There is a wealth of rnaterial bearing on this important epoch in the settlement of the continent. The Pacific slope, no less than the border lands of Canada and New England, was the rneeting place of many an old-time jealousy; and many political currents of the great world sent their waves into that distant territory. Europe and the ne\v-born republic lay behind-the iInmediate fountains of energy; before, was all the glamour of the ancient East, to which, even yet, America could be thought of as a stepping-stone. But our concern must first be with the rnen whose unconquerable will and daring were needed before any nation could lay claim to the land-with the traveller and the trader who were the first to scale the rnighty barrier of the rnountains and to penetrate the fertile valleys that lay beyond. It is a singular tribute to tenacity of purpose (the wish being father to the thought) that the search for the N orth- ,-,rest Passage furnished a rno- tive hardly less powerful for the earliest expeditions overland than for those that had been undertaken by sea. The firm belief in the existence of an ice- free channel did not end with the conclusive voyages of Cook and Vancollver. In England especially, when almost every other nation had abandoned the pursuit, a stubborn confidence remained. From Frobisher, Gilbert and Davis, 50 THE NORTH-\VEST PASSAGE in the sixteenth century, through Hudson, Barrow and Baffin in the seventeenth, to Ross, Franklin and l\IcClintock in the nineteenth, the tradition on the Atlantic seaboard had been handed on. But, long before the navigator gave over the quest, other agencies had been invoked. One of the most frequent complaints against the Hudson's Bay Company in the eighteenth century was that it had done little to develop the land acquired by its char- ter, and, especially, that it had nlade no serious effort to find a shorter route to the Pacific. IIence the expeditions of Hearne, Rae, and Simpson, on behalf of the company, and the discovery of the Coppermine River in 1769. Hence, also, with a shifting of the scene and leading actors, the historic voyage of Alexander l\Iackenzie to the mouth of the river bearing his name, and his expedition later to the Pacific-efforts fruitless in so far as their immediate objective was concerned, but rich be- yond measure in ultimate results for his country and for humanity. The subject proper of this chapter may begin with l\fackenzie. I t is not necessary in referring to the N orth- West Company, whose servant l\lackenzie was, to do lnore than lnention that it was organized at Mont- real in 1784, and that its object was to secure the trade of the remoter Indian territories without fear or. favour of the Hudson's Bay Company, a rival with which its members were unable separately to 51 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS contend. For the nonce, success attended the ven- ture; the ancient and more powerful rival was out- stripped; and to the North-West Company fell the honour of being the first to send its men into the country of the Pacific slope. The company was, in effect, a consolidation of the interests of a number of independent merchants, trading across a territory t\VO and even three thousand miles in extent, and so beset with difficulties that years often elapsed between the first capture and final delivery of the furs. The traffic was carried on through coureurs de bois and voyageurs, that unique and ever fascinating type indigenous to this continent-their home, the forest and the plain ; their instincts, those of the wildest nornad; their pleasures, feasting and song; their literature-oral, as among all prin1itive peoples-the chan,yon and conte; their calling, hunting and trapping, and the wielding of the paddle and the axe over river and portage. Of such ,vas the domain to which the lad l\Iackenzie came. I ts dominion was the whole boundless west. The portraits of Sir Alexander Mackenzie reveal a personality in which strength of intellect and pur- pose was suffused and exalted by the imagination which belongs to the true artist. 'ìVithout rashness or impetuosity, he possessed a will and energy of the most indomitable; and his well-balanced Scottish rnind and his instinct for detail enabled him, without danger, to cherish the greatest resolves and to risk the largest undertakings. Of Stornoway parentage, he 52 ALEXANDER J\fACKENZIE earlyernigrated to Canada and was bound appren- tice to the fur trade. At thirty-four years old, we find him risen to the cornmand of Fort Chipewyan on Athabaska Lake, in the rnidmost of the vast expanse that lies between Hudson Bay, the Arctic and the Pacific. l\lackenzie knew of the discover- ies of Hearne and longed, both for his own and his company's fame, to rival or eclipse them. Fort Chipewyan had, in fact, been built as much with discovery as with trade in vie,v. It was from this point, accordingly, that he set out in 1789 to find, and afterward to trace, the great river of the north -the l\Iackenzie, as he named it in reasonable pride-to its delta in the Arctic Ocean, near- ly a thousand miles distant, and to satisfy him- self and the world of the futility of seeking a route beyond to the Atlantic. On his return, he had al- ready resolved to attempt the more dangerous passage westward to the Pacific, where ",vhite men wearing armour" were to be n1et, according to Indian legend, doubtless referring to Quadra's Spaniards. But the task required special prepara- tion ; and l\Iackenzie deferred its execution until he had visited England, where he made care- ful study of the narratives of Cook and other navigators and acquired a more perfect knowledge I of astronomical instruments. Thus equipped, he re- turned to Western Canada. Leaving Fort Chipe- wyan on October 10th, 1792, he set forth on his memorable journey. 53 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS The route lay by the Peace River, nine hundred miles to the foot of the Rocky l\fountains, where l\lackenzie erected a fort and spent the winter. By June 12th, 1793, he had ascended that difficult river to its source. Crossing the height of land, he found within a rnile of the Peace a small stream flo\ving southward. This was the Tacouche Tesse, afterwards the Fraser, the rnouth of \vhich was al- ready known to the sailors of the Pacific, but \vhich had never been seen inland before. .l\Iackenzie fol- lowed its course in the belief that he had found the long-sought river Oregon; but learning from the tatives, some two hundred miles below, that a shorter route to the sea could be taken overland, he retraced his steps to a branch, named afterwards the 'ìV est Road River, and proceeded for the rest of the journey on foot. On July 20th, at the mouth of the Bella Coola, he came upon the Pacific. I t would be hard to overstate the difficulties and dangers as well as the importance of l\lackenzie's journey. As the crow flies, over a thousand rniles of rugged mountain and treacherous water\vay lies between Fort Chipcwyan and the Pacific. The 'wandering of De Soto and his Spaniards in the wild country of the Gulf of l\Iexico, the crossing of the Rockies by the Astor traders, or the famous ride of 'Vhitman from the Oregon to the city of Washing- ton rnay equal it perhaps as feats of endurance; yet the self-imposed and unflinchingly executed task of l\Iackenzie forms a record of courage and resource- 54 ACHIEVEl\IENT OF l\fACKENZIE fulness such as the annals of few nations can display. Geographically, the voyage was an additional blow -all but the final one-at the notion of a North- \Vest Passage. l\Iackenzie, gazing at the Pacific after the long battle with the Rockies and the wilderness, is an incomparably greater figure than Balboa-nay, is worthy of being named with Columbus himself. He had penetrated a vast and unknown continent still in a condition of untarned nature and offering every obstacle of rapid river, impenetrable forest, sky-towering lllountain, and the extremes of a vari- able climate. At every step new dangers confronted him. Strange skies or the lodges of hostile savages were his only roof. Tribes who had never before seen white men had to be awed or conciliated. He was Inany a time face to face with starvation and with the mutiny begotten of despair. His final suc- cess was alrnost a rniracle of victory. He is his own historian in a narrative that stands with that of Caesar for simple dignity and plain truthfulness. Napoleon had it translated into French and it be- came one of his favourite books-an eminent re- cognition by one master mind of the greatness of another. His body lies in the churchyard of A voch, beside that of his gifted and beautiful wife, Lady Geddes l\lackenzie, who survived until 1860. The stone at his head bears the record of his wonderful life. But his sufficient title to fame was the legend roughly painted by his own hand on a rock on the 55 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS shores of the Pacific: " ALEXANDEU MACKENZIE, FUOl\I CANADA, BY LA D,THE T'JVENTY-SECO D Of' JULY, ONE THOUSAND SEVEN HUNDRED AND NINETY -THREE." lackenzie's expedition was the beginning of a new life for the country west of the Rocky l\Iountains. Out of the territory which he traversed in that famous journey were formed, before a quarter of a century had passed, t\VO great dis- tricts-the one, New Caledonia; the other and more celebrated, Oregon. These areas received their titles from circumstances in themselves of interest to history. Nearly all the traders and proprietors of the N orth- West Company were of Scottish birth or descent, and the region of the Peace, through which the fur trade followed .l\Iackenzie, was named in honour of their rugged Dative land. By the title of New Caledonia the north-eastern portion, and often the whole, of British Colurnbia was for a long time known. Strictly speaking, the district occupied a huge triangle, the base of which extended from the southernmost point of Alaska to the Rocky l\Ioun- tains, containing the greater part of the present districts of Cassiar and Cariboo. The rest of British Columbia was included in the far extending region to the south and west known as Oregon. The Ineaning and origin of the word are wholly ob- . scure. Jonathan Carver, an early traveller in the interior of the continent, refers in 1779 to the Oregon '56 DAVID TI-fOl\lPSON River, of which he had heard from the natives, or had read, perhaps, in the narratives of others. Whether Carver invented the name, whether he mistook the title current among the Indians, or whether the word itself has since perished from their language, remains unknown. In process of time the territory westward through which the river was supposed to flow came also to be known as Oregon or the Oregon Territory. Some years later, as we know, a river, the mouth of which had previously been sighted by Heceta the Spaniard, was discovered by Gray of Boston and named the Columbia. Thenceforward the two names, Oregon and Columbia, were applied indifferently to the same vague territory. It happened, accordingly, when the western boundary line between the United States and Canada was fixed at the 49th parallel, that the country north of it was called British Columbia, to distinguish it from the por- tion lying south of the line. Here, for fifty years after the discoveries of l\Iackenzie, was the scene of action of the men who made the history of the Pacific coast. The day of the navigator, except as an auxiliary to the fur trader and the landsman, had forever passed away. After l\lackenzie, the first to enter the interior of British Columbia were David Thompson and Simon Fraser. Both were employees of the N orth- West Company. Thompson, who was an astronomer, had been previously in the service of the Hudson's Bay 57 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS Company, making surveys of its eastern territories. After joining the rival enterprise, he had travelled north and south throughout the region immediately east of the Rocky l\lountains, from the Peace into the heart of the l\Iandan country, obtaining a gen- eral knowledge of the inhabitants and of the state of the fur trade. Combining a scientific training with experience in the methods of commerce, Thompson ,vas in valuable to the company for the work in which he was for so Inany years engaged. After several ineffectual attempts to cross the mountains south of l\Iackenzie's point of ingress, Thompson penetrated into the interior of the Bow River Pass, through which the Canadian Pacific Rail way now enters the Rockies. This was in 1805. The hostility of the natives soon after cOlnpelled his returñ, but on a second expedition he discovered Howe's Pass, reached the Columbia Ri\Ter, ascended it to its source, and built Fort K:ootenay. Thompson, in fact, stands in the highest rank among early travellers in British Columbia. He was the first to explore the Kootenay District; he was the discoverer of the A thabaska Pass; he descend- ed the Columbia, (and as far as the Lewis River he ,vas the first to do so,) proclaiming the sovereignty of Britain at the junction of the Spokane, and all but forestalling the establishment of the Astorians at its lnouth. But this is to anticipate somewhat. Three years before Thompson had completed his work in 1811 and had returned to Eastern Canada 58 SIl\;10N FRASER (where he ended his days in poverty) Fraser and other members of the N orth- 'iV est Company had achieved an even more signal success in the race for trade, incidentally ,vinning for their country a domain that is one of the most cherished in its possession to-day. . As the result of a conference held in 1805 at Fort Willialn, the headquarters of the company, the task of extending its operations to the great new land discovered by l\Iackenzie had been assigned to Simon Fraser. Ascending the Peace River from Lake Athabaska, in the sanle season in which I ewis and Clark dropped down to the mouth of the Columbia and wintered there, Fraser confined his first year's efforts to the establishment of two trading-posts on the threshold of the new domain. In 1806, however, he portaged to the Tacouche Tesse, later to be known by his own name-then supposed to be either the Columbia or one of its tributaries-and built two forts, one on what is now Stuart Lake, and a second on the river itself. For still another year Fraser tarried in this region, busied in the firm planting of the company's power. I t was at this stage that the territory over which his discoveries extended, and in which the com- pany's operations were now carried on, received the definite title of New Caledonia. 'iV e may find an added interest in the man and the district from the fact that not many years afterwards, James Douglas, then a rising officer in the Hudson's Bay 59 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS Company's service, came upon the same scene, and was one of the most active in the district of which Fraser laid the foundations. But the crowning achievement of Fraser was to follow. '''"hat matter if the spur that pricked hio1 on was the jealousy of rival traders? The fame of the voyage of l ewis and Clark had made clear to the N orth- VVest Company how immediate was the need of anticipating another on the north-west coast. Acting on instructions fron1 headquarters, an expe- dition was fitted out in New Caledonia with the ob- ject of extending the company's rule at once to the Pacific. Three lnen, whose names are forever pre- served in the annals of the Pacific slope,-Simon Fraser, John Stuart and Jules l\Iaurice Quesnel,- with a crew of twenty-one, nineteen of whom were voyageurs, embarked on the undertaking. They were in four canoes, and the stream whose unknnwn reaches lay before them was the Fraser. Those only who have seen the tremendous rapids and cascades, the precipitous side walls and the thousand other dangers of that splendid river, can appreciate the nature of the task that confronted them. The Fraser has be n described as a ragged gash in the moun- tains, by which, in ages gone by, the waters of a great interior sea burst through their barriers of rock to the ocean. The modern traveller gazes in wonder at the thread-like trail cut into the face of the over- hanging cliffs, by which at dizzy heights the railway traces the yawning canyons through which the river 60 DESCENT OF THE FRASER hurls itself forward, and is lost in admiration at the daring of the men who carved its tortuous way along the mountains. Even greater was the task of Fraser and his men, who for the first time, ,vithout landmark to guide them or know- ledge of the country of any kind, and beset by hostile natives, followed the river throughout its length from source to mouth, a distance of seven hundred and fifty miles. Fort George, the point of departure, was left on l\Iay, 28th 1808; the journey to tide water was completed on July 1st. To the sea itself Fraser was prevented by the natives fronl penetrating. Returning, the party arrived at Fort George on August 6th. Thus was accomplished the second epoch-making feat of exploration in British Columbia. It was only less notable than that of l\lackenzie himself. The latter had demonstrated that it was possible, though at a fearful price, to reach the Pacific overland. Fraser had proved that the river he had descended was not the Columbia, but an independent stream which fell into the sea over seven degrees further north. I t is necessary now to turn to the phase in the development of the Pacific coast which more than all others influenced its political destiny. And here it will be well to define somewhat the rela- tive positions of Great Britain and the United States with respect to the sovereignty of the western continent at the end of the eighteenth century. 61 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS Up to this time, no nation, certainly neither of the two in question, had established any absolute claim to the country north of Lower California. Drake had harried the Spaniards, and had taken possession of the Californian coast in the name of Elizabeth; British navigators, also, had in later times done more than those of any other nation to deterrnine the northern shore line and to Inake it known to the world. Spain had to all intents abandoned the field. On the other hand, the United States could claim with justice to have solved the mystery of the Great River of the 'Vest. As yet, moreover, there had been no actual oc- cupation of N ootka, and only a nominal possession of Vancouver Island, by Great Britain. The situa- tion, therefore, was chaotic. About the beginning of the nineteenth century, however, a number of events combined to create an interest in the coun- try ,vest of the Rocky l\-1ountains that commanded order to arise. The question, to which of the two Anglo-Saxon nations the Oregon territory be- longed, was slowly formulating itself. At first its utterance ,vas no more than a whis- per-a passing word in the halls of diplomacy and state. Forty years before, the capture of Quebec and the subsequent cession of Canada to England had changed the face of politics on the continent. To this had succeeded the An1erican revolution, a counter-change still more momentous. The new conditions, however, did not make themselves felt 62 THE I OUISIANA PURCHASE at once in the western country. It was not, in fact, until 1803, that any echo of the great events that had happened on the Atlantic was heard on the Pacific. It came then as the result of very special circumstances. In 1762, Spain had ceded to France in perpetuity the ,vhole of the territory of Louisi- ana. There has already been occasion to remark the vagueness of the region included in that compre- hensive term. In the cession of 1762, no attempt was lnade to dispel the uncertainty; and indeed it ,vould have been impossible. In the following year, a treaty which considerably modified this arrange- ment was concluded between France and Spain on the one hand, and Great Britain and Portugal on the other, but again not a word was included as to the easterll or western limits of Louisiana, though Great Britain was granted Canada, Florida and the portion of Louisiana " east of the line drawn along the l\Iississippi from its source to the River Iber- ville, thence along the middle of the Iberville and the Lakes l\Iaurepas and Pontchartrain to the sea." In the course of events, the territory ,vas again ceded back to France in 1800, and in 1803 passed by purchase into the possession of the United States. IInmediately the question of its boundaries arose, this time ,vith an insistence that demanded an :tnswer. Did they extend west of the l\Iissis- sippi? Did they embrace the whole of the interior plateau to the foot of the Rocky l\Iountains? Did they extend to the ocean? If so, for how far north 63 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS and south? What were the southern limits of British territory? To its earlier possessors, Louisiana had been a word and little more; to the United States it was the gateway to a golden future. Spain and Great Britain were the other nations affect- ed, as the possessors of contiguous territory to the south and north. Spain on the one hand claimed the whole of the territory west of the l\Iississippi, to which the United States opposed a counter claim to an enonnous portion of the coast of the l\lexican Gulf. As against Great Britain, the view held was that the 49th parallel of latitude marked the southern limit of British pos- session. Both of these disputes were postponed for settlement from time to time with results unfor- tunate to British interests. Varying estimates have been placed upon the character of Thomas Jefferson, author of the De- claration of Independence, and third president of the United States. Whether as a result of Jeffer- son's personal initiative or of the foresight of his advisers, several notable events occurred. within the period of his influence to determine the trend of circumstances unfavourably to British interests beyond the l\lississippi. These were: the acquisition of Louisiana, for which Napoleon was paid the sum of $15,000,000; the expedition of Lewis and Clark to the mouth of the Columbia River; and the founding of Astoria by the Astor Fur Com- pany. Whoever pointed the way, the foundation 64 THOl\IAS JEFFERSON was laid in these events for the expansion of the republic across the l\lississippi and beyond the Rocky l\10untains. While the great mass of the people cared nothing for the west, there were a few who realized its possibilities. Jeffer- son was undoubtedly one of the latter. Projecting his vision into the future, he saw the hosts of settlers pressing further and further west-beyond the Alle- ghanies; across the Ohio and the Mississippi; along the valleys of the mighty rivers which rise among the foothills of the Rockies; overcoming finally the Rockies themselves, and surging down into the valleys of the Pacific slope; blazing trails that were to become national highroads; building homes, towns and cities; carving out new states of the republic. He saw the possibility of adding another and larger empire to the thirteen. states. He saw and he acted. He had read of the overland journey of Mackenzie; he knew that the British flag was be- ing carried by the fur traders across the continent in the north; and he realized not only the possibilities that lay in the fur trade, but that, in the time to come, settled industry would follow the march of the fur brigades, and the solitude of the forest and the plain be broken by the voices of civilization. In the meantime, and while the dream was forming in his mind, the territory of a foreign nation intervened. This obstacle removed, the genius of the American people, it was thought, might be trusted to 30 the rest. But the Louisiana 65 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS purchase did not fully accomplish the end that Jefferson had in view. The added claim of explora- tion was still lacking. I t was to establish this that Jefferson now equipped the second great expedi- tion to cross the continent. Lewis and Clark, two experienced frontiersmen, were placed in command. As the journey was long and hazardous, and the territory through which it lay unkno\vn, the presi- dent took the utmost care to provide against every contingency. The objective was the lnouth of the Columbia, to the credit of discovering \vhich the l.Tnited States already laid claim; but it was by no means certain \vhere the expedition would end. If the Pacific were reached at all, it might be in Span- ish, British or Russian territory. The impression was accordingly conveyed that the expedition was in the interests of science and literature alone, and to this end the coöperation of the other nations was sought and obtained. The leaders were sup- plied with passports by the representatives of the powers at Washington, so that they Inight travel without hindrance through foreign territory, and were furnished besides with letters of credit for use in foreign ports. At the same time a confidential message was despatched to congress disclosing the real object of the enterprise, which was to strengthen the claim of the United States to the distant west against the day of settling the re- spective titles of the nations having interests between the l\fississippi and the Pacific. The 66 LEWIS AND CLARK ruse was in every detail successful. Not only were the necessary funds forthcoming; but the repre- sentatives of the foreign powers at 'Vashing- ton vied with each other in rendering their as- sistance. The details of this famous expedition are not gennane to the present narrative. It was thoroughly equipped, though costing only $2,500; it consisted of forty-five persons; the start- ing-point was St. Louis and the actual distance travelled amounted to about one-third of the circumference of the globe. The route lay from Illinois through regions since known as 1\lissouri, Kansas, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, l\lontana, Idaho, \Vashington and Oregon. 1'he main water- ways followed on the eastern side of the moun- tains were the l\1issouri and the Yellowstone; and on the Pacific side, the Lewis, the I{ooskooskee, and the Columbia. The continental divide was surmounted in three places, many miles apart. Though great hardships \vere often encountered, and sometimes suffering and immediate peril, there ,vas but one life lost. The expedition occupied over two years, from l\lay, 1804 until August, 1806, during which time all communication with the outside world was suspended and an immense mass of exact information respecting this hitherto unex- plored territory was made available. Lewis and Clark wintered at Fort Clatsop, on the Pacific Coast. This great expedition, so successfully brought to an end, was not the only one that Jefferson had in 67 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS mind; but the futile mission of John Ledyard to Russia and the ignoble ending of the project of .i\ndré l\lichaux, for which Lewis volunteered, call for no special comment. In the light of events, it is unnecessary to emphasize the momentous conse- quences which flowed from the Louisiana purchase and the Lewis and Clark expedition. Seldom has appreciation more acute of the greatness of an opportunity been seen in history; seldom has the wisdom that divined possessed the power to ex- ecute in equal measure. Jefferson was the proto- type of American diplomacy; Lewis and Clark \vere the prototypes of the men who followed its voice and reaped its harvest. The logical sequel of the journey of Lewis and Clark was the formation in 1810 of the Pacific Fur Company by John Jacob Astor of New York. The organization has been made a name in litera- ture by \Vashington Irving. Astor" had risen from humble circumstances to great wealth and political influence. He was the friend of Jefferson, and the project of extending the territory of the United States westward, doubtless owed much to his encouragement. Appreciating to the full, from his intimate association with the fur trade, the value to commerce of the territory west of the l\Iississippi, Astor's ambition was to obtain for himself a sphere of influence in the United States similar to that possessed by the North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies in British America. Not less anxious 68 THE PACIFIC FUR COl\IPANY was he, for the same reason, to see the 49th paral- lel extended to the Pacific Ocean as the dividing line between the two countries. There can be little question that when the Lewis and Clark expedi- tion was decided upon, it 'was with the entire con- currence of Astor. From Irving, who deals at length with Astor's aims and methods, we learn of the close relationship which existed between him and the administration; it is not, therefore, far to seek for the inspiration of J efferson's policy. Astor, the rival of the British fur companies, was the only man of his time who had an overpowering self-interest in extending the United States west- ward to the Pacific. The Pacific Fur Company was not the first or- ganization of its kind, but it was the first which carried out its aims in accordance with a compre- hensiye plan combined with practical business exper- ience and ability. The operations which it immedi- ately set on foot partook of the nature of a national effort to counterbalance the success of the British companies and divert the fur trade from l\lontreal to New York. Thus, though its object was in the main a business one, it had, at the same time, many features that appealed to wider sympathy and support. The main features of Astor's pro- ject, as embodied in his company, involved the establishment of a line of posts along the Mis- souri and the Columbia to the mouth of the latter, where the chief trading dépôt of the company was 69 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS to be situated. Subsidiary posts were to be set up in the interior and on the tributary streams of the Columbia to trade with the Indians; these would draw their supplies from the main establishment and bring to it the peltries they collected. Coasting vessels ,vould be built and fitted out on the Col- umbia, to trade, at favourable seasons, along the north-"west coast, and to return with the proceeds of their voyages to the place of deposit. In this way the entire Indian trade, both of the interior and of the coast, would converge at the mouth of the Columbia. ....\. ship was to be sent annually from N ew York with reinforcelnents, supplies, and Iner- chandise suited to the trade. It would take on board the furs collected during the preceding year, carry them to Canton, invest the proceeds in the rich stuffs of China, and return thus freighted to New York. 'Vhat was of importance in the scheme was the development of trade with the Russian establishments on the north-west coast. This sug- gested many possibilities. As a preliIninary step, a staff experienced in the Indian trade and inured to life in the wilderness was necessary. This was recruited in l\fontreal. Three prominent eIuployees of the N orth- 'Vest Company were aInong those ,vho accepted the terms of Astor. A personal representative and chief agent ,vas appointed. The Pacific Fur Company was then formally incorpor- ated and the work of organization perfected to its final details. 70 ASTORIA The expedition which it was determined at once to send out for the realization of these plans was di rided into t\VO parties; one to proceed in the ship Tonquill by way of Cape Horn to the Columbia; the other to follo,v in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark across the continent. The quarrels of the members of the party on the Ton- quilt \vith her captain; the final loss of the T07Z- quill and the murder of her cre\v by the natives at Clayoquot; the sending of a second ship from :New York; and the terrible sufferings of the over- land party under Hunt, are familiar history. 1'he establislnnent of Astoria and its varying fortunes need not detain us here. By a series of nlishaps it soon passed into the possession of the North- 'Vest COlnpany. Irving assigns the failure of the enterprise primarily to the loyalty of the ernployees to Great Britain and their former masters the N orth- "Test Company. There is force possibly in the contention. The final blow was the ,V Rr of 181:!. ""'hen peace \vas declared, Fort Astoria 'was ceded back to the United States, though \vithout prejudice to the rights of Great Britain to the territory in \vhich it was situated. The Pacific Fur Company, however, made no further attelnpt to carry out the projects of Astor; and the North-West Company, and sub- sequently the Hudson's Bay Company, continued in \Tirtual occupation of the fort until the settle- lnent of the boundary dispute in 1846. The 71 SIR JAl\iES DOUGI AS abiding importance of the experiment lies in the fact that the occupation of the Columbia by the Astorians was put forward at the time of the settle- n1ent of the boundary question as one of the strong- est claims in behalf of the United States. This in- ternational aspect of the case .will be referred to later in the present volume. I t may be well to recapitulate in proper sequence the five great transcontinental expeditions of these early times as follows:-(l) The expedition of Alex- ander l\lackenzie, by the Tacouche Tesse and Bella Coola Rivers, in 1793. (2) The expedition of Lewis and Clark, by the .l\Iissouri and the Columbia Riv- ers, in 1805. (3) The expedition of Simon Fraser, by the river which bears his narne, formerly the '.racouche Tesse, in 1808. (4) The expedition of David Thompson, by the Columbia River, in 1811. (5) The overland expedition of the Astorians in 1811. Among the most glorious in the history of the Anglo-Saxon race, these great achievements must, for the moment, be remembered in their special and less happy significance: as shedding light upon the bitter rivalry \vhich was to follow-of which indeed they were already the beginning-between the mother and the daughter countries for the continent so dauntlessly won for their common civilization. I t has now been shown, however briefly, by what steps the Pacific coast first became known to the world; and it has been noted, also, how the over- 72 THE HUDSON'S BAY COl\IP ANY land explorer completed the work of the navigator. The fur trader, it has been seen, was the first to enter the new country as other than a spy or adventurer, and his forts and dépôts were the first roofs, as his trafficking with the Indians was the first act of commerce, in the great interior. The re- mainder of this chapter may be fitly devoted to a statement of certain broad and salient features in the life and methods of this striking type as it existed during the first fifty years of the last cen- tury. These were the days of the trader in the full flush of his glory, and the recital of his leading characteristics, however familiar, is necessary to give a background to the succeeding narrative. In this it will be understood that the reference throughout is to the Hudson's Bay Company, which in 1821, after a struggle which had ended in arm"ed hostilities and the effusion of blood, absorbed the North - ',,"est Company, and from that time forward, retaining only what seemed best in its former con- stituent bodies, completely dominated the trade and the life of the western country. Ho\v the great enterpise-" the Governor and Company of Adventurers of England trading into Hudson's Bay,"-came to birth in the revival of mercantile activity \vhich follo\ved the restoration of King Charles II ; how Rupert, Prince of England and Bohemia, dashing cavalier and patron of com- merce, became its founder ; how the powers con- 73 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS ferred upon it in that lavish age included, in addi- tion to the " whole, entire and only liberty of Trade and Traffick," the absolute ownership of a third part of North America, .with authority to frame la\vs, administer justice, wage war or make peace therein; how its early servants planted its rule on the edge of the wilderness amid difficulties that \vould have driven back any but the most determined of men; how through a century and a half of steady progress-of bloody wars with the French, implacable rivalries with other traders, thrilling adventures and vicissitudes innumerable- it dro,.e its purposes to a victorious end, sending out its explorers on journeys that gave a new face to the continent, narning some of the greatest rivers and mountains of the earth, spreading step by step the arteries of its trade and the empire of its flag over thousands of miles, and over thousands of souls; civilizing sometimes, corrupting and degrading often, bartering continually ;-all these varied and commanding activities combine to form an episode unrivalled for the romantic and the picturesque in our history. The general system under \vhich the company carried on its multiform and far-extending business has been many times described. In the Inanner in which it adapted means to ends it could have little to learn from the largest enterprise of modern days. The minuteness of the trade and the tremendous distances which it traversed rendered necessary a 74 THE FUR r.fRADE method of accounting, at once the most elaborate and exact. For organization - purposes, the vast dominions of the company were divided into four great departments. These were again divided into districts. Each district had its fixed and permanent trading-posts, as well as a number of temporary or flying stations, the latter frequently the precursors of the former. Here were the vital points of con- tact between the company and the trade from which it drew its life's blood: here the traders met and bartered with the Indians. Important posts or parties, together with the transportation service, ,vere in the charge of chief clerks ; a lower grade of employees managed the outlying stations. The dis- tricts were under the chief traders. In the depart- ments, dépôts and distributing points were presided over by the factors, while over all tHe chief factor bore rule. An army of postmasters, interpreters, mechanics, guides, canoemen and apprentices made up the rank and file, though even here degrees were strictly recognized. In general terms, the service ,vas made up of three classes; the servants, the clerks and apprentices, and the officers. The second class sat at the officers' mess and were addressed as gentle- men. But the officers were the real oligarchy, bound by special covenant to fidelity, and receiving their reward not in salary but in a share of the company's profits. Subject to the orders of his superior and the regulations of the cOlnpany, each officer was supreme in his sphere of duty. The system, as will 75 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS be seen, was military in its absolutism. The chief factor was lord paramount; his word was law, to support and symbolize which the office was en- veloped in a halo of dignity. When a chief factor transacted the most ordinary business, his habili- ments were elaborate and imposing ; when he travelled, it was in state, with a retinue by whom he was lifted in and out of his conveyance, his arri vals and departures heralded by the firing of salutes. High above all reigned the governor of the company, a personage scarce y less exalted than the most absolute of sovereigns, owing allegiance to no one save the directorate in London, whose policy, as a matter of necessity, was largely dictated by his advice. Great indeed was the majesty that hedged about a governor of the company. But the show was no greater than the reality, though part of a deli- berate plan to overawe the natives and subordinates where rebellion or mutiny would have meant ex- tinction. It succeeded in so far as the immediate object was concerned; but, as examples show, it had sometimes an unhappy effect upon the ruler. The company's "r estern Department, with which the present narrative has chiefly to do, included the entire region between the .watershed of the Rocky J\Iountains and the Pacific Ocean, bounded on the north by Russian territory and the Northern De- partment (the latter embracing the country drained by the rivers running into the A rctic Ocean and Behring Sea) and on the south by the Mexican 76 FORT VANCOUVER republic. Roughly, it extended a th usand miles in length, by half that distance in average width. The dépôt for the department was, in the early days, at Fort Vancouver. a post of considerable size (its stockade measuring 7.50 feet in length by 600 feet in breadth) situated on the Columbia River six miles aboye its junction '\vith the Willamette. Afterwards it was removed to Victoria. Here the company's goods were received from abroad for distribution throughout the coast and the interior. Here were collected the furs as they were sent in by the traders for subsequent transportation to England around Cape Horn. Here, too, were the headquarters of the chief factor and the "heart of the official life of the region. 'Vhile Fort Van- couver remained the dépôt for a period of some twenty-three years, the districts north of the Columbia landed their supplies at the mouth of the Okanagan, and packed them on horses thence to their destination. For the service of the other districts, lying nearer the coast, the furs and goods were carried to and from the Fraser River. Goods for the Upper Columbia and Koote- nay '\vere landed at Fort Colville near the Rocky 1tIountains; those for the Snake River were landed at WalIa Walla. The former became in time the centre of all the trade on the Columbia-the last post touched at by the brigades on their long jour- ney fronl Fort Vancouver to Norway House. The coast ports were supplied by sailing vessels, the 77 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS returning boats and vessels bringing in the furs collected at the several ports. The trade in New Caledonia, and in what is now known as the Yukon in the Northern Department, was carried on by way of the Athabaska route, of which the forts on Hudson Bay 'were the entrepôts. The activity of the company in the 'Vestern Department was by no Ineans restricted to the trade in peltries. In process of time, large farms were established in the vicinity of ,rictoria, on Puget Sound, in the 'Villamette valley and in other parts of the country. The trade in horses, cattle, sheep, pigs and general farm produce, soon attained Ï1nportance. The erection of grist mills, sawmills, tanneries and dairies followed. A con- siderable fishing industry sprang up. \ Vithin a few years, the ships of the company were regularly exporting flour, grain, beef, pork and butter to the Russian settlements in Alaska and Siberia, lumber and fish to the Sandwich Islands, and hides and wool to England. The company ,vas the first to open the coal mines of Vancouver Island, at Fort Rupert first and later at N anaimo. The wants of its own communities and of the vessels of the coast furnished the original incentive; but the sale of a thousand tons. to a vessel bound for California, during the height of the mining excitement, proved the inauguration of a trade that has since become of first importance to the district. It ,vas, in fact, the proportions reached by the general commerce 78 NATURAL RESOURCES of the department, even at an early stage of its development, and the industries thus founded and nourished, that first attracted the attention of the outside world to the potentialities of the Pacific coast, the result being a gradual process of settlement that eventually extinguished the company's rule. The debt that is owing to the men 'who were the first to recognize in the natural resources of the country still greater possibilities than existed in the gathering of peltries-even though they could not clearly foresee the effect that was to follow for the company whose servants they were-is one that could not easily be over- estimated. Had they followed tamely in the foot- steps of precedent; had they lacked sagacity to per- ceive the wealth that lay in the fertile valleys, the teeming rivers and the timber-clad hillsides of the vast dominion 'whose present destiny they shaped at will, they might have purchased for the great master of their allegiance a few doubtful years of the power to barter "skin for skin"; but they ,vould have thrown back the progress of the coast at least a quarter of a century, and they would have missed the opportunity of conferring upon their country a boon far beyond the gift of any corporation bound to a single and narrow circle of activity. A word may be added as to the treatment ac- corded by the company to the Indians,-its equals in trade, its benefactors even, but with all the 79 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS pathetic helplessness of an inferior race. There can be no doubt that the company was, before every- thing else, a keen trader. It took the Indian as it found him-and it kept him so. To be a hunter and a ,vanderer was the Indian's nature; he would have been useless to the company had he been other- wise. There was no effort, accordingly, to civilize him,-none, for almost two centuries, to christianize him. But he received justice-or what he thought was justice-even kindness, dictated though both were by policy. To gain the Indian's confidence was a necessity of the trade; and the company made sure of this. In two centuries of rule over tribes of every shade of racial difference, ranging from the Eskimos of the Labrador and Arctic coasts, through the Crees, Sioux and Blackfeet of the interior, to the polyglot chaos of tribes that dwelt along the Pacific Ocean, war was unknown and violence and bloodshed only an occasional incident. Thousands of miles from any force of arms, trade was carried on in scores of factor- ies in perfect trust. The coast tribes <:>f the 'Vestern Department were perhaps more truculent and ex- citable than any on the continent, yet here as else- where Indian outrage was comparatively unknown. The manner in 'which intercourse between the trader and the Indian was held had much to do with this result. Respect was always paid to fairness in exchange. Docile as the Indian was, and avid of the goods that made his barren existence happier, this was no difficult task. In other respects an equal dis- 80 THE INDIANS cretion was displayed. The relations established ,vere ever those of reserve; familiarity was per- mitted on no pretext, though firmness was temper- ed with tact, courtesy and the constant expression of good-will. The frequent intermarriages of traders with native women did much to secure the good feeling of the Indian, and to further the interests of the company. That some of the traders were profligate must be admitted ; that rum found its way into the trade has been proved; but in these, as in other matters, the law of self-preservation was the constant monitor of the company. In the sum- ming up, history will accord thanks to the cOlnpany for the fruits of its attitude towards the Indian. lVithout that preparation of the Indian mind, the peaceful settlement of the country would have been impossible. "Then the hour of the fur trade had struck and the settler stood at the gateway of the lnountains, he found a native race subdued to the methods of the white man, and ready to play its part in the new order. 'fhe Indian is to-day a more important factor in the labour nlarket of British Columbia than of any other portion of the Dominion. Of the life that went on beneath the extraordin- ary surface of the company's system and policy, who could give even a glimpse in a page? It ,vas a ,vorld in itself, so romantic and full of wonders that every fireside has listened to the story of it. Over half a continent it embraced scenes the most varied and 81 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS sublime on the earth-the forest growth of ages, pathless and ilnpenetrable; the endless prairie, roamed by millions of bison; mountain lands unrivalled for 'wildness and grandeur; all alike in- terlaced by one of the most beautiful and majestic chains of waterways in the world, running down in- to the everlasting sea which bore the company's trade to its ultimate markets. Dotting the wilder- ness, hundreds of miles apart, were the" forts" or trading-posts of the company, ,vhence it drew sus- tenance and by which it kept its grasp upon the land. Even these were stamped with individuality. Built, large and small, upon a common plan-a low and quadrangular centre structure surrounded by high palisades, flanked by bastions and defended by six-and twelve-pounders-they aptly proclaimed the rigour that ruled within. This was no less than martial law, to transgress which was punished with swift and ruthless severity, and from wl.1Ìch the only seasons of respite came at Christmas and the New Year, or on the days, many months apart, on which news and letters were brought from the outside world-sunbursts of joy that made their recurrence the chief solace of an existence unparalleled for monotony and isolation. The brigades were the agents of this beneficence, the tie that bound the forts together, and constituted the veins and arteries of the system. In summer they canle with goods in " York boats,"-nine triplnen to each, and eight boats to the brigade,-or by cart and cayuse over 82 LIFE IN THE 'VILDERNESS the prairie; in winter they brought only letters and ne\vspapers by sledge and snowshoe, the gaily caparisoned dog trains lnaking forty miles a day over the snow, sheltering under trees and bushes, and covering once a year the entire round of the company's trading-posts. But the real bond of union was the comradeship of the service which laid its spell (or its terror) upon all, the essence of which, for rude and polished alike, was its touch upon the aboriginal and the elemental in both wild and human nature. In such a setting, life took on varied forms. The man of mighty \vill turned all to power, triumphing over difficulties that subdued and appalled others, and rose because he could do nothing else. Others in \vhom the flame burned less fiercely, adapted thelnselves to their surroundings and hewed out paths of useful effort. Others were broken utterly, consuming their hearts in the awful toil and loneliness until death or mad- ness came. The roll of honour in the company's western service is a long and illustrious one. From 1805 to 1846, and in British Colulnbia until 1858, the fur trader ruled on the coast. It \vas not an ab- solute s\vay: the settler arrived early to dispute it; and the half-century was one of conflict and evolution. Simpson, Ogden, Ermatinger, 1\1 cDon- ald, l\lcLeod, 'rod, Yale, Dallas, Finlayson, Ander- son, Black, l\fcKay, Ross, Campbell, l\lurray, Dease, Rae, Tohnie, Grahame, are some of those who bore 83 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS a share, in the early and formative period, in direct- ing the energies and moulding the destinies of the country, each in his own field and method. Their inlpress can never be obliterated. But from the list of all that generation two names stand out preëm- inently in the history of the upbuilding of the Pacific Slope-l\lcLoughlin and Douglas. Occa- sion more than once will be offered in the follow- ing pages to note the striking personality of the former of these great men. He was the founder and the patriarch-the first great leader of the company in Oregon. He made the career of Douglas, who was his friend and follower, possible. The superior of his disciple in all that touched the human and the lovable; magnetic, impul- si ve, eager ; Napoleonic in the swiftness of his judgments and of his movements to execute them; resolute, brave and chivalrous, l\IcLough- lin was swept frOlll his feet in the end by a movement that struck at his emotions and his sense of right-the right of the mass as opposed to that of an individual interest. He could not, or he would not, stem the tide of settlement from the United States, so fatal to the company's and, as it proved, to his country's future. And when, in 1846, the land north of the Columbia to the 49th parallel passed to the United States, he went ,vith it, divorced from an allegiance to 'which his 'whole life had been devoted. Douglas, his successor, less keen and restless; of an order of genius that had less 84 1\IcLOUGHLIN AND DOUGLAS perhaps of fire and humanity but more of purpose and obedience; studious, orderly, tactful and re- sourceful; commanding a rigid respect and admira- tion, if not love; one at all times master of him- self and his surroundings, was undoubtedly the greater officer, if not the greater man. Of the two, Douglas must always remain of larger interest to the historian. He came into command at a moment of supreme importance in the period of rapid transition from old to new conditions, for which 1\-1 cLoughlin had opened the door. U n- shackled by doubts of any kind, he was in a special degr e qualified to deal with developments which he could not wholly control, but which he could influence powerfully in the direction of the com- pany s interests, while at the same time clearly foreseeing that they must result in a new order wherein the company would cease to be a ruling factor. It ,vas in truth to this last point that the enterprise of the fur trader in building forts to be the centres of future settlement; in opening lines of communication throughout the interior to be the avenues of future commerce; and in the bring- ing of ships to the coast dépôts to establish in- tercourse with the outside world, inevitably con- verged. Even a less clear-sighted observer than Douglas could not but see in the movements which drove the company out of Oregon and which planted a colony in the valley of the Red River, something that portended the ultimate extinction of its 85 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS sovereignty in the west and the erection of popu- lar government in its stead. Of never-fading in- . terest in themselves the lives of the traders in the 'wilds of the interior and on the shores of the Paci- fic must always remain. That strange and varied period is a subject, probably, of which the ground has been no more than broken. l\IcLoughlin was of it, and his lamp was extinguished 'when the trade passed away. Douglas too was of it, blood and bone; but he was something more. As has been said, our interest in the fur trade is for the fruits it bore in subsequent history. 'i\T e ha\Te to watch its huge and tireless mechanism as, in measured process, James Douglas, the most no- table figure which it produced in the country west of the Rocky l\10untains, rose step by step to the post of chief command, thence, by the inevitable sequence of events, as the company gave place to civil government, to become the first representative of the Crown in a British colony on the Pacific Ocean. 86 CHAPTER III NEW CALEDONIA O ONCERNING the early life of Sir James Douglas, little is known. He was not in his youth a keeper of diaries, and there are few records of the long period of his apprenticeship to the North- West and Hudson's Bay Companies, prior to his assumption of command at Fort Vancouver. The generation which knew "him in the flesh has passed away. In the family circle he was not a purveyor of official slllall news. Neither was he given to reminiscence or to talk of himself or of his exploits. When he passed from the scene he did not leave behind him a single purely personal record either of his actions or of the opinions and early experiences on which they were based. 1 This might at first appear remarkable in a mall who at all times so fully recognized the importance of his position in so far as mere forms were con- cerned. How seriously he could consider this aspect is well illustrated in n letter which he ,vrote in l\Iay, 1859, to the governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. It was evident that he could not occupy the dual position of governor of the Pacific colonies and representative of the company, and it was necessary, therefore, that he should retire from the 1 A journal kept by Douglas at Fort Vancouver, quoted by Bancroft, has disappeared. 87 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS service of the latter. This he was willing to do, con- ditional on the payment of !:8,500 as a retiring interest: "In the event of the rejection of that offer [he wrote), I must resign my office of governor, as the salary offered, !:1,800 per annum, is altogether inadequate to my support in a becoming manner. "As a private individual I can live in a style befitting the fortune I possess; but as governor for the Crown, there is no choice: one must live in a manner becoming the representative of the Crown, and I could ne\Ter consent to represent Her l\Iajesty in a shabby way." The fact is that the manner of a chief factor clung to him to the last in governmental, com- pany, and domestic relations. This was second na- ture to all Hudson's Bay Company officials. Doug- las, however, was to an exceptional degree steeped in the ceremonial of official life, and the fact has led to not a little misinterpretation of his character. The fondness of display and the autocratic methods with which he has been charged were in fact the natural outcome of his long and devoted service to an organization famed the world over for its iron discipline, joined to the trait which he displayed frolll first to last of taking high and serious ground e\Ten in small things. His early training, acting upon a spirit essentially religious, shaped his whole after career to this pattern of conduct and bearing. It \vould have been easy for a nature, nourished as 88 HIS RETICENCE his had been in mountain solitudes to exaggerate the importance of command. Yet Douglas was re- markable throughout his whole career for nothing more than for his sane self-knowledge. An evidence that his self-assertiveness was on the surface merely may be deduced from the fact that he failed entirely to foresee the interest which the his- torian would one day attach to his life and person- ality. He did not apparently realize that, as a chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Pacific coast for many years, and as the first governor of the colonies of Vancouver Island and British Col- un1bia, he was moulding {uture events and lnust one day stand as the central figure of his time. Official statemen ts he put forth in plenty; but the record of his life, as a whole, as throwing light up- on the most interesting half century in western his- tory, he invariably refused to compile, nor could he ever be brought to see anything in the success he had achieved which would add interest to his personal opinions or actions. A natural repugnance to publicity in part accounted for this. He was a In an of great reserve, though of strong passions and deep feelings. But, above all, the unwritten law of the company stood in the way; it is easy to appreciate how such an obstacle appealed to James Douglas. Unbroken silence on all lllat- ters of its internal economy, is the rule of the company for its servants. Reminiscences, e\.en of the purely literary kind, were never encouraged; 89 . SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS and there are volumes of unwritten history in the archives of the company to-day, which have never become accessible to the student. Of those invaluable aids to the historian, therefore, -the memoir, the sheaf of letters, the diary, writ- ten solely from the personal standpoint,-we have few at hand, in the early years especially, for use in writing the life of Sir James Douglas. The loss is great. With the events of the period during which he ruled on the coast, he was more familiar than any other man. A history by Douglas of the fur trade in the country west of the Rocky lVlountains, or of the early colonial period on the Pacific, would have been a document the most valuable of its kind. As a lover of biography, and a careful student of politics, he might have been ex- pected to employ the leisure of his later years in literature and to have enriched it from his o n unique experience. He was possessed, besides, of a gift of style, as his State papers show. That he passed from the scene in silence is one of the most strik- ing instances we have of a not uncommon phen- omenon-the indifference of the men who bore the brunt of the early battle with the wilderness, and who solved the earliest problems of social organiza- tion and government, to everything but the practi- cal and immediately important side of the events in which they played so large a part. The greatest of men are creatures of circum- stance; but they are also springs of action; and what 90 BIRTH AT DEIVLERARA we cOlnmonly term destiny is often only a conveni- ent word for the complex relationship of man and his environment. Political history, thus conceived, becomes the biography of the makers of nations. Every man is the product of his age; but every age is what its greatest men have made of it. It is in this spirit that the present life of Douglas, shorn largely from necessity of personal detail, has been written. He, more than any other Ulan, gave form to British Columbia. As the legend in the great London cathedral bids the reader look around if he would see the monument of him whose mind con- ceived the majestic pile; so, if one would seek a measure of the achievement of Sir James Douglas, let him behold the fair province of the mountains and the Pacific, whose sturdy growth bore in its early fashioning the lasting impress of his handiwork. The life of Douglas, therefore, serves as no other would for text from which to hang a connected narrative of the origin and progress of British Col- umbia, youngest perhaps of all the provinces in that her present but feebly foreshadows her great future, yet bringing our history into vital touch \vith the far-off time of the greatness of Spain, beginning even with that fateful day on which Balboa :first. "Stared at the Pacific-and all his men Looked at each other with a wild surmise- Silent upon a peak in Darien." James Douglas was born at Demerara, British Guiana, August 15th, 1803. His father was a de- 91 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS scendant of the Earl of Angus, the "Black Doug- las" of Scottish history. I ittle is known of the father's youth or parentage, except that he was the son of one .John Douglas, merchant, of Glas- gow. A search of the Registry Office at Edinburgh reveals nothing of his earlier ancestry , John Doug- las being a familiar name and frequently appearing in the Glasgow records. I ieutenant-General Sir Neil Douglas, I{.C.B., colonel of the 78th Regiment, who took part in the battles of Busaco, the Pyrenees, Seville and Tou- louse, and whose gallantry on the field of "T aterloo obtained for him the Austrian order of 1\iaria- Theresa and the Russian order of St. Vladimir, was a cousin of James Douglas and has been described as the "fifth son of the late John Douglas, Esq., of Glasgow, whose grandfather, Douglas of Cruxton and Stobbs, descended lineally from the famous Earls of Angus." The lineage of Douglas was well known to his companions of the fur company, and he went for many years by the sobriquet of the "Black Douglas," a title for which his swarthy skin and stern cast of features was in part respon- sible. J ames was taken at an early age to Scotland, where he was educated in a private school at Lanark. He was a studious youth, conscientious and of regular habits, traits which characterized him through life. 'Ve are indebted to family tradi- tion for the statement that his French tutor was 92 ENTERS NORTH-WEST CO lPANY an exiled nobleman of France who was the means of furnishing an accomplishment which Douglas was soon after to turn to very practical account. In a new country, engaged in a trade which brought him into daily contact with the French-Canadian voyageur, it was the most immediately useful part of his education. N early all the Hudson Bay traders spoke French fluently, and when Sir James made a tour of the continent after his retirement as governor, he was still able to converse in French with a good accent. I t was in the year 1820 that Douglas left Scot- land to seek his fortune in the service of the North- 'Vest Company. The origin of his choice of a career is in obscurity, but two brothers appear to ha ve preceded him in the ame field. Although in his seventeenth year only, he was already tall and well developed, "with ideas beyond his age." 'fhat he had courage to leave kith and kin to plunge into the wilderness of the New World goes without saying. He reported at Fort 'Villiam, the head- quarters of the COll1pany, then under the rule of the celebrated .John l\I c Loughlin, who seems to have been struck immediately \vith the promise of the lad. But the career thus launched ,vas destined to an early interruption. In 1821, the North- 'iVest Company ,vas absorbed by the Hudson's Bay Company (in what manner need not delay us here), and Douglas was of the party which re- garded the terms of union with dissatisfaction. He 93 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS was on the point of returning to Scotland with his brothers, when McLoughlin persuaded him to throw in his lot with the new réginle. The friend- ship of the older for the younger man, which was to bear such rich fruits later, was already firmly planted, in the soil of a warm and appreciative nature on the one hand, and of sterling merit on the other. IcLoughlin was to have charge, under the new arrangement, of the vast territory lying west of the Rocky l\Iountains, then termed the Columbia Department, and he wrote to the direc- tory to ask that Douglas might accompany him. The request was granted. In less than two years service, and before he had reached his twentieth year, Douglas had won the trust and friendship of the man who ruled an empire equal in area to a third of Europe and, though stIll in a state of savage nature, rich beyond measure in political and industrial possibilities. Great indeed was the oppor- tunity; as will be seen, no part of it was thrown away. l\lcLoughlin had had a history of his own which is typical of the day and place. Born in 1784 at Rivière du I oup, he had lost his father while still a boy, and had grown up with his brother David in the gray stone mansion of his grandfather, l\lal- colm Fraser, overlooking the St. Lawrence where it ,videns to the sea. The children early caught a military bearing from the grandsire ,vho had brought a Highland regiment to Canada and who had 94 JOHN l\lcLOUGHLIN settled later on a St. Lawrence seigniory. It was a discipline, too, of a thoroughly Scottish savour. Scottish books were read; Scottish tales were told; the bagpipes droned in the hall; and the kilts were often worn. When the boys grew up, they were sent overseas, destined to the study of medicine at Edinburgh. But Napoleon had begun the war with England, and David fled his gallipots to follow the Iron Duke to Waterloo. John took another course. "I never could fight N apoleon I admire him too much," he said, and returned to Canada. Arrived there, he had still his future before him. A story is told of the incident which sent him into the service of the N orth- West Company-a quarrel with an English officer who had shown discourtesy to a lady on the streets of Quebec. But his uncles were high in the company, and the life Inight have appealed to him on other grounds. Birth, talent, and, above all, his splendid presence, brought rapid promotion. His first important command was at Sault Ste. Marie: it was in McLoughlin's time that the post was burned during the War of 1812. Here he had married the widow of his friend l\lcKay. (IVI cKay had crossed the continent with Alexander bIackenzie and had been one of those engaged by Astor in Montreal for his .venture on the Pacific-a voyage fronl which McKay never re- turned, having been slain by the Indians on the ill- fated Tonquin.) Thence he passed to Fort William, 95 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the metropolitan post of the company, then in its titne of greatest splendour,-his hair white before he was thirty from an accident in Lake Superior, in which all but himself were lost. Of the remainder of his life there will be more in the sequel. It was a part of l\fcLoughlin's plans for Doug- las, when, on the amalgamation of the companies, the faces of the two were turned westward, that he should not be confined too closely to anyone branch, but that by a succession of duties he might become conversant with the entire range of the service. Consistent with his duty to the company, l\IcLoughlin seems to have spared no fa\ our that inured to the advancement of his protégée Douglas was already an excellent accountant; he had more- over a thorough command of the language of the voyageur. The time was come, therefore, when he must learn at first hand the ponderous yet minute organization by which the operations of the united companies \\ ere conducted in the field. New Cale- donia, the nucleus from which the present province of British Columbia was to evolve, was at the moment the most distant and difficult of l\fc- Loughlin's outlying departments. To New Cale- donia, accordingly, went Douglas, after an inter- val spent with l\IcLoughlin himself in the Atha- baska district, for the very sake of the difficul- ties which offered there and the experience to be gained in encountering them. This was in 1823 or 1824. 96 NEW CALEDONIA A glance at the natural conditions and the state of development which awaited the young trader in New Caledonia will be of interest here. Dotted with innumerable lakes; thridded by a network of rivers, with the Fraser for central waterway; helnmed in and intersected throughout by mountains, clad in the south with the Douglas fir and in the north with spruce and pine ; New Cale- donia embraced, roughly, the whole of the territory between the Rockies and the coast range of moun- tains, from the valley of the Thompson on the south to the northern sources of the Peace. The interlninable forest with which the district was covered yielded no food save berries, roots, and the flesh of animals; but the lakes and rivers abounded in fish and waterfowl. From time immemorial the region had been peopled by the western Déné Indians, the main branches of which were the Nahanais and Sekanais in the extreme north and east, the Babines and Carriers in the west and centre, and the Chilcotins in the south and west. They, as well as the white men who first entered the country, depended almost wholly upon the salmon for their food, so much so that the damming of a stream by a fall of rock would cause an entire tribe to remove. How .l\lackenzie discovered and how Fraser took possession of the country, has been already described. Rocky Mountain Portage, the first post of Fraser, was built in 1805. l\-lcLeod, the first permanent station ever erected in British 97 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS Columbia west of the mountains, still standing with- out a year of interruption, had been established soon after. The discovery of Stuart Lake followed; and Fort St. James, destined as the dépôt of the new district, arose on its banks in one of the most beau- tiful spots of that land of surpassing natural beauty. Fort Fraser, on Fraser I ake,and Fort George, on the Fraser River, were built in the same year. For three years longer, which included the famous descent of the great central river, the pioneers of the company laboured on the foundations of the new district. In 1809, Fraser returned east, to assume command in 1811 of the Red River Department. Too poor to ac- cept the knighthood which was offered to him, he died in 1862 at the great age of eighty-six. Stuart, the right hand, according to some the brain, of Fra- ser's enterprise, succeeded him in New Caledonia, with Harmon as first lieutenant. Stuart was still in command on the amalgmnation of the companies in 1821, and to a large extent directed the expan- sion and multiplication of posts which immediately followed. Kamloops, the centre of the Thompson River district, had been built in 1813, the year in which communications were first established be- tween the Colulnbia and the Fraser; and in 1821 the building of Fort Alexandria, on the Fraser, still further facilitated the bringing in of supplies by the new route from the south instead of by the old and laborious passage from the east. Babine, famous for its salmon, on the northern lake of the same name, 98 EARLY 'fRADING POSTS was built in the following year, and Chilcotin, an outpost of Alexandria, situated among a tribe not- able for its ferocity, about the same time. In 1824, however, the year from which the connection of Douglas with New Caledonia is dated, Stuart with- drew to the l\lackenzie, and in his stead 'Villi am Conolly, an Irishman of long experience in the trade, was appointed chief factor. Douglas who had been placed under the command of the new officer while l\lcLoughlin went forward to the Columbia, was of the party which accompanied Conolly across the mountains when the latter first took office. "Tith them were the wife and half-breed family of the chief factor, a convoy of twenty-four men, and the usual quota of supplies for the district. At the time of Douglas's arrival, three clerks whose names are of frequent appearance in the later history of British Columbia, made up the staff of the chief factor at Stuart Lake-l\IcDougall, Pam- brun and Yale. At Fraser Lake, l\'lcDonnell was in charge, with an assistant clerk. At l\lcLeod Lake, Alexandria, and Babine, the other important posts of the district, Tod, l\lcDougall, and Brown were in command. The district was already very prosper- ous. Beside furs, such commodities as birch bark, pitch, sturgeon oil, pemmican, Indian rice, buffalo robes, snowshoes, parchment for windows, dressed buffalo and moose skins and buffalo tongues entered into the trade of the country, and returned good profits to the company. There were more than the 99 SIR JAl\1ES DOUGLAS usual dangers and hardships in the service of that isolated district, and the fragrnents of old journals that have suryived are replete with tales of suffer- ing. The question of supplies pressed unceasingly; and the treachery of the natives constituted a cease- less menace. Sickness and, desertions among the men were on a corresponding scale. The record of Douglas's stay in New Caledonia is involved in much confusion and obscurity, some of which, at this date, is inexplicable. The leading in- cidents, however, stand out in greater or less relief; and it is possible to construct from them a narrative that is intelligible, if not at every point consecutive. He remained at first with Conolly at Fort St. J ames, to the temporary command of which he suc- ceeded from time to tÏ1ne during the absences of his chief. Later he served as clerk at l\lcI eod Lake to John Tod, famed as a controversialist and writer of letters, and, as he gave satisfaction, we find in due course the annual council of the company recom- mending that he " be engaged for a term of three years from the expiration of his contract, at !:60 a year." But he soon returned to the more important duties of Stuart I ake. Of his activities here some interesting details are given in the l\IS. journal of the fort, which, as they shed light upon the gener- al nature of the life in New Caledonia, may be quoted here. As was said above, the maintenance of a constant supply of provisions was the first care of 100 THE SALl\fON FISHERY the early trading-posts. In this connection a fishery had been established at the mouth of a small stream on Stuart Lake, where, in 1806, the company had met the first Indians of the country. The catch, however, had been uncertain, and it was finally re- solved to establish a second station on the head- waters of another river falling into the same reservoir. Douglas was placed in charge of the new fishery, and the journaP contains the following re- ferences to his operations : Saturday, Vovember 10tll, 1827,-" Received from the [old] fishery fifty-nine whitefish, the pro- duce of two nights. Clermont brought over the greater part of the nets . . . . . To-morrow l\Ir. Douglas, with two fishermen, ßichon and Clermont, and two men to assist them will proceed to Y ukogh (or Petit Lac) to establish the fishery there. This gentleman will not only superintend the fishery, but will also collect the fish which the Indians may have to dispose of immediately, for which purpose he is provided with leather [dressed skins] and other articles of trade. " Sunday, l1th,-" l\Ir. Douglas, with five men, set out for the fishery of Y ukogh. They are well pro- vided with nets, having eight of small thread, three of willo\v, and four of Holland twine . . . . . . l\fost of the dogs are also sent to the fishery." 11 T ednesday, 14th,-" 'T adeboncæur came from 1 Quoted by Morice, History of the Northern Interior r!f Britùh Columbia, pp. 127-9. 101 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the fishery and informed me that these two days back they had not taken a sufficiency for their consumption. I ordered them to come across to- morrow to prepare to go and join l\lr. Douglas at the other fishery." From that date on we have frequent glimpses of the future governor hauling with dog sledges the fish he had taken at his station or had purchased from the Indians. The life was one of incessant toil and hardship even for the officers. To the end of his stay in New Caledonia, 'v hich was prolonged for six years, Douglas was busy with fish and furs, as the following entry in the journal lnade on the eve of his departure for Fort Vancouver shows: January 1st, 1830,-" . . . . l\Ir. Douglas also re- turned from his trip. In the way of furs he was more successful than had been expected, having collected, principally among the Kuzche Indians, about one hundred and ten pounds' weight of ex- cellent furs, chiefly beaver and martin. But the fish trade has entirely disappointed us, only about one thousand and six hundred having been procured, part of which the dogs have brought to the fort by l\'Ir. Douglas's men." For the rest, the story of Douglas's life in New Caledonia is involved in many discrepancies. In the lnain, it groups itself about two or three well de- fined incidents, which may be dealt with as nearly as possible in chronological order. 102 l\IARRIAGE It was probably soon after his arrival at Stuart Lake that the young officer took to wife Amelia Conolly, the daughter of the chief factor of New Caledonia. She was then in her sixteenth year, described as a shy, sweet and lovable girl, "mod- est as the wood violet," and ha ving in addi- tion to personal beauty, the blood of native heroes in her veins. A younger sister Julia, who also married an officer of the company, shared in the family attractiveness, as her portrait by an artist who accompanied the first expedition of Sir John Franklin shows. Beautiful and ccom- plished, the sisters were adlnired of all. The stay of the young wife in New Caledonia after her marriage was of short duration. Following her husband to Fort Vancouver, there happened one of those perilous chances to ,vhich women as well as men in that stern period were exposed, her boat upsetting in the dangerous passage of the Fraser. A description of the dOlnestic life of the family in the later years of Fort Vancouver shows her ripened into a comely matron, her children about her knees, while Douglas on a Sabbath evening read to them from his Bible on the flo,ver-decked porch of the officers' quarters. The eldest daugh- ter of the family in after years married Dallas, who subsequently became governor of the com- pany at "Tinnipeg. It may be added in passing that the status of Indian marriages had a personal bearing for Douglas from the fact that Conolly, his 103 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI.JAS father-in-law, on his retirement separated from his Indian wife and married again. Important legal proceedings followed, with the result that the first marriages in such cases were declared binding and the children legitimate. There has been some debate as to the exact share borne by Douglas in the extension of the com- pany's operations in New Caledonia during the period of his service there. That he was prominent in the work is the evidence of several. Interest has centred in this connection in the erection of Fort Conolly, so named from the chief factor, and designed to facilitate from its situation on Bear Lake the trade with the Sekanais Indians. Douglas has been considered by many as the guiding spirit in that enterprise. On other evidence, however, he was operating in a region remote from Bear Lake in the year in which Fort Conolly was founded. The fact is not of first importance, knowing as we do the general activity of Douglas in exploration, and having the assurance from indubitable sources that. for six years crowded with incident he lived the full life of the district. His mastery of the Indian languages is but one evidence of the energy with which he threw himself into the work; and on his retirement from New Caledonia he had already laid the foundations of a knowledge of the Pacific slope that was later to be unrivalled. One of the many vicissitudes that befell him at this period, easily the most fateful in his early life, may be re- 104 INDIAN OUTRAGE ferred to in SOlne detail, not for its intrinsic import- ance, but as illustrating the character of the man, the life of the place and the precarious nature of the evidence on ,vhich it is necessary to rely in this por- tion of the narrative. In 1823, Yale, who was in command of Fort George, had occasion to pay a visit to Stuart Lake. On his return the mangled bodies of his two assist- ants ,vere found in an outhouse, at their side one of the company's axes ,vith which they had been done to death by two Fraser I ake Indians. The motive of the deed is unrecorded. Yale was temporarily suspended on the ground of negligence, but on full investigation ,vas reinstated. One of the murderers soon after paid the penalty of his crime. Several years elapsed, \vhen in the summer of 1828, the survivor, Tzoelhnolle by name, hazarded a visit to Stuart Lake. Concerning the sequel we may note the versions of the more important writers who have considered the matter worthy of minute descrip- tion. Bancroft,! whose informant was John Tod of Fort l\lcLeod,-an excellent authority, though over eighty miles distant at the time of the occurrence,- states that the occasion of the Indian's visit to Fort St. James was a native celebration, at a tÏ1ne when Douglas was in charge. The latter having been in- forlned of the fact, immediately went in search of the murderer who took refuge under a pile of camp 1 HMt010y of the North- West Coast, Chapter XX. 105 SIR JAl\IES DOUGL.i\S equipage. Though an arrow-point stared him in the face, Douglas and young Conolly seized the wretch and killed him, in requital of which the former was taken prisoner soon after by two hundred savages with blackened faces and compelled to pay com- pensation. l\IcLean 1 relates the incident somewhat as fol- lows: The Indian having visited Fort St. James when Douglas was in command, and the latter, though with a weak garrison, having executed "wildjustice" on the murderer, the tribe, thoroughly incensed, de- termined to obtain reprisal through a stratagem. The old chief came alone to the fort and was ad- mitted; the matter was discussed at length, and seemed in a fair way of being settled when a knock was heard at the gate. "It is my brother," said the chief, "come to hear what you have to say." The gate was opened, when the whole of the Nekasey tribe rushed in. The men of the fort were overpowered; and though Douglas seized a wall piece, he was speedily borne down. His life was in the utmost peril as he was held by the chief while thirty or forty Indians surrounded him brandishing knives and shouting "Shall we strike?" The chief hesitated, and the life of Douglas was saved only by the prompt courage of the wife of the interpreter of the fort who harangued the Indians and secured his release. 1 Notes of Twenty-five Years'Service in the HudifOn's Bay Territory,- Vol. I. page 268. 106 AN EPISODE AT STUART LAKE Father l\lorice, l who, in knowledge of the north- ern interior of British Columbia is without a peer, gives an entirely different account from the fore- going, quoting from native eye-witnesses. One of the murderers, according to l\Iorice, had al- ready paid the penalty of his crime, having been secretly slain by the company's servants who burned the remains in such a way as to suggest an accident, when the survivor visited Stuart Lake, Douglas being in charge. Hearing of his arrival, Douglas went in search, and Tzoelhnolle, though he . hid under some skins, was quickly discovered. After an angry altercation, Douglas seized the murderer by the hair and fired at him with his blunderbuss, but the bullet flew wide; whereupon his men beat the life out of the Indian with hoes and clubs. The body was dragged out and left in the open; l\lorice adds that it was left to the dogs. Several days afterwards, the chief with the father of Tzoelhnolle arrived; Douglas was seized within the precincts of the fort; and the chief's nephew pointing a dagger at his breast iInpatiently asked, "Shall I strike?" A brave at- tempt at rescue by the young wife of Douglas was overpowered. Thereupon the women of the fort threw tobacco, clothing and other goods into the cro\vd, securing the release of Douglas. These are only three of a great number of des- criptions of an affair which has been given an alto- 1 Hi8tory of the Northern Interior of British Columbia, page 138. 107 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS gether disproportionate ilnportance. 1 "Tith reference to the last account, ,vhich is that of an unbending critic of the Hudson's Bay Company, some doubt may be permitted, notwithstanding the unrivalled knowledge of the author's, to a statement based on the traditions of local tribes and involving the ability of the native to recall at a date removed by half a century the circumstances of an incident concerning ,vhich he would have many tempta- tions to fashion a version to his own credit. In any event, it ,vould seem precipitate to base on this and other incidents in the early career of Douglas, the hypothesis that his removal to Fort ,..- ancouver-the next great step in his career- came as a result of his inability to 'work in har- mony with the Indians. Every reasonable estimate we have of the character of Douglas and of his value as an official is opposed to such a view. The change, as there is cause to believe, was in the way of preferment for success well earned in a diffi- cult branch of the service, and for abilities already proved and no'v required in a larger field. It was carried out under the immediate direction of the governor, who, if any man, would be aware of the facts of the case, and would scarcely recommend for honour one who had jeopardized the company's in- terests in their most vital particular. 'Ve need hold no brief for either Douglas or the company in the lFor variations of the story see Gray, HÚJtory of Oregon, p. 44 ; Hines, Oregon History, p. 392, etc., cited by Bancroft. 108 SIIHPSON AT FORT ST. JAMES method in which justice was meted to the wretched native of the story; but that the result was of far- reaching import to the career of the leading actor or to the relations of the company with the Indians, is perhaps beyond the ability of the historian at this date to demonstrate. Before the transfer of Douglas to Fort Van- couver, he had the opportunity of receiving in New Caledonia no less a personage than the governor of the company, Sir George Simpson, then on his tour of inspection of the posts in 1828. A somewhat detailed account of the ceremonies of the occasion has survived. To impress the savage mind, it was thought ad\.isable that the governor should make his entry into Fort St. James with even more than the usual amount of display. "\t'Tithin a mile of the lake the party halted, breakfasted, and decorated. The order of march was then arranged. The British ensign, fluttering to the breeze, was borne by a guide at the head of the procession. A band of buglers and bagpipers followed. Behind rode the governor, supported by the doctor of the party and a neighbouring chief factor, also mounted. Twenty men packing burdens next formed the line, while another officer with his wife and family brought up the rear. Arriving in view of the fort itself, the bugles sounded and the bagpipes struck up a famous march of the clans. Douglas replied with canon and musketry, advancing to receive his dis- 109 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS tinguished visitor. The first exchange of civilities ended, the line reformed, pipers and buglers entered the enclosure, and, marching along the gallery con- tiguous to the palisade, paraded in view of the wondering natives. A dozen years later when the governor was on his famous voyage around the world, Douglas had a second time the honour of welcoming him to a post of the company. The scene was at Fort Vancouver, and Douglas had by this time risen to all but the first rank in the most important station of the company west of the Rocky l\Iountains. The change to Fort Vancouver came in ]830. It marks the beginning of the career of Douglas as an officer of real importance to the company. l\lc- Loughlin's suggestion doubtless lay at the root of the transfer. A good accountant, possessed of ad- ministrative ability and capable of lightening the responsibility of the chief factor in minor affairs, was called for. Simpson himself had noted the capacity of Douglas during his visit to New Cale- donia. The irnportant nature of the post made the question of its officers a vital one. Ninety miles in- land from the sea, on a green t.errace sloping from the northern bank of the Columbia, Fort Van- couver, like a mediæval castle, was at once a refuge in time of danger, an oasis of civilization in a surrounding desert of barbarism, and a capital from which its commander ruled the adjacent 110 McLOUGHLIN AT FORT VANCOUVER territory. The fur country immediately tributary was wide and rich ; and the Indian tribes to develop its resources were numerous. But it was more than this. Built by l\IcI.Joughlin in 1824-5 on the abandonment of Astoria, Fort ,r ancouver had the threefold advantage of a central location, a sur- rounding country adapted to agriculture, and acces- sibility to sea-going ships. The fort, accordingly, for nearly a quarter of a century, was the emporium not only of the company's vast interior trade, but of the traffic by sea both coastwise and with England and the Orient. It formed the counterpart of York on Hudson Bay, with an even ,vider range of operations and involving even greater responsibilities, on account of its distance from Great Britain. l\IcLoughlin for this reason was in- vested with more than the usual powers of chief factor, having to act to a great extent on his own initiative. In many ways he was as supreme even as the governor at Fort Garry. For twenty years his rule ,vas that of a Czar over the territory that stretched from Alaska to California, and from the Rocky l\lountains to the Pacific Ocean. Uncounted thousands of Indians-Cayuses, 'Valla 'Vallas, Okanagans, Nez Percés, Flatheads, Spokanes, Klickitats, l\T ascopams, l\Iolallas, Callapooias, Tillamooks, Chinooks, Clatsops,-obeyed his be- hests and feared his displeasure. Over every ,vater- way in that immense region he sent his Canadian voyageurs ; through hundreds of miles of forest he 11] SIR JAJ.\;lES DOUGLAS dispatched his trappers and traders ; in and out of the fringing north-west islands, to Sitka itself, his schooners plied; throughout the San J oaq uin and Tulare valleys, over the Shoshone country, on the shores of Salt I ake and in the Yellowstone itself, his brigades pitched their tents ; all alike bringing home rich tribute to the cOlnpany, and restlessly seeking further and ever further regions to subdue. To share in this command, the first coadjutor of l\lcI oughlin, Douglas, young as he was, had been chosen. It was an office great in its present powers and responsibilities; in the hands of Douglas, its future ,vas to lead him to still higher place and honour. 112 CHAPTER IV FORT VANCOUVER T HE moment of Douglas's arrival at Fort Van- couver was an important one in the history of the company. Up to 1830 little had been ac- con1plished west of the Rocky l\lountains beyond the slow and laborious establishment of a single pathway to the sea and the subjection of the country immediately tributary. New Caledonia had been gi\7en, for the time, its full measure of de- velopment; but the situation of l\lcI.Joughlin at Fort 'T ancouver was still, to outward seeming, not un]ike that of Fraser twenty years previously. The new fort had, however, ,vhat Fraser's posts had not, the illiInitable promise which the command of both sea and land and the adaptability of the latter for agriculture held out. With the building of Fort Vancouver in 1824 and the occupation of the Col- umbia, the way was cleared for a policy of expan- sion on a scale unprecedented in the previous annals of the company. For this, after six years of preliminary effort, the time was now considered ripe; and Douglas was a part of the material which was placed in the hands of l\IcLoughlin. It was the fortune, therefore, of Douglas to be identified from the first ,vith the movement which brought the whole of the coast and the lower mainland of 118 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS British Columbia under the subjection of the 'white man. The full measure of the company's design at that period may be guessed from the part that was actually realized. l\lcLoughlin ,vas the directing spirit, though Douglas froln the first entered fully into the confidence of his chief and assisted in the formation as well as the execution of his plans. That the company had in view a great trade north and south along the coast, with Russians and 1\Iexicans as well as the native tribes; that it set no bounds to the regions it sought to dominate in the interior; that the Sandwich Islands were included in its com- mercial suzerainty; this much we know from history. That it cast its vision still further, to the Orient and the southern seas, is not improbable. l\lagnifi- cent as was the dream of an ocean added to a continent for its sole trade, it was no more than the occasion seemed to ,varrant. Ocean and continent alike were a no-man's domain; not a ri val in 1825-30 was in sight. But events moved too rapidly to leave so trcmendous a development to private enterprise. The advent of the Alnerican colonist in Oregon, the establishment of the United States in California, and the definite partitionment of the north-west coast behveen Great Britain and the republic in the celebrated treaty of 1846, were destined to dissipate these hopes almost as soon as they were formed. The missionaries were in Orego within a decade of 1\1 cLoughlin him- 114 EXPANSION IN THE FUR TRADE self; and they were follo,ved by a population that ,vas to drive the fur trader forever from the land. For the forty years, however, that followed the ad- vent of the white man west of the Rocky fountains, the history of that territory is the history of the fur trade. Its earlier stages have been already out- lined. In the present and in the following chapter will be noted the more important developments that ensued, with Fort Vancouver for centre, during the second quarter of the century, or un- til the division of Oregon between Great Britain and the United States, and the removal of the company's headquarters north of the 49th parallel. In discussing the period, it will be neces- sary first to trace the natural process of expansion, northward in the direction of Russian territory, southward towards California, as well as in the interior of New Caledonia and Oregon. Later, the movement contingent upon the settlement of Oregon and the determination of the international boundary, with the political consequences involved therein, will be briefly outlined. The first step looking to the extension of the company's influence northward was taken almost immediately after the establishment of Fort Van- couver. In 1824, an expedition sent out by l\lc- I oughlin made a careful examination of the shore- ,vard territory lying between the Columbia and the Fraser; and its members were the first to 115 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS enter the latter river from the sea. Before further action was taken, however, the strengthening of communications with New Caledonia, which, as above noted, had already been established through I(mnloops and Alexandria, required attention. This was accomplished by the founding of Fort Colville, in 1825-6, on the Upper Columbia, a post which at once attained importance as a dépôt for the sur- rounding territory and as final place of ('all for the brigades which, from this time forward, began to pass regularly eastward from the coast to Edmon- ton and Norway House. After this interlude, l\IcLoughlin turned again t.o the north, and Fort Langley was erected on the Lower Fraser in 1827. Langley therefore repre- sents the earliest occupation of the lower mainland of British Columbia. The schooner Cadboro which carried the crew and supplies for the new post was the first sea-going keel to ruffle the Fraser and the many bays of the neighbouring coast. Langley at once became important, the more so on account of its excellent salmon fishery. For a time, also, the trade of the coast northward was conducted through the Indians alone, with Langley as entrepôt. But competition pressed, t.hat especially of the American traders; and in 1831 a bold resolve was taken. Fort Simpson ,vas tremblingly erected at the mouth of the N aas, some hundreds of miles north of Langley. It arose in the ntidst of the most treacherous savages known on the coast; and its 116 OPERATIONS ON THE COAST occupation became in a peculi r degree a test of military endurance. It was the outpost for many years of the company's effort to monopolize the north-west trade. To occupy the territory between Fort Langley and 'ort Simpson now became the concern of l\lcLoughlin. In 1833, Finlayson, J.\tIanson and Anderson were sent north in the brig Dryad, John Dunn, known as the author of a history of Oregon, serving as their interpreter. At l\1illbank Sound, they were joined by J.\tIcN eill in the Llama. (As throwing light upon conditions at this juncture, it may be explained that l\IcN eill's first appearance on the coast had been as the agent of a Boston conlpany ,vith a shipload of ge"rgaws for the In- dian trade. These completely outbid the company's staple commodities, with the result that l\IcLough- !in, to rid himself of the nuisance, had bought the ship and her cargo outright and enlisted its captain in the company's service.) In the all but impene- trable forest that stretched to the water's edge, a space was cleared and a fort erected, closed in by the usual picket, one hundred and twenty yards square in this instance, with a height of eighteen feet. Such was Fort l\IcLoughlin. From the first it was a scene of conflict with the Indians. l\fanson and Anderson were left in command, Tolmie suc- ceeding Anderson in 1834 and l\lanson being re- placed by Charles Ross in 1838. The first circulat- ing library on the Pacific slope was founded by 117 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS Tolmie and l\1anson for the benefit of these posts. In the same year as Fort l\lcLoughlin, Fort Nis- qually was erected between Langley and Fort \Tan- couver, and in 1835 Fort Essin!,TÌon was built to serve as intermediate station between Forts Simp- son and l\IcLoughlin. With the completion of these operations, the way was prepared for the inevitable collision with Russia that soon followed. As early as 1825 the need of a partitionment of interests between Great Britain and Russia on the north-west coast had been fully appre- ciated, and had resulted in the signing of a conven- tion which was destined to affect far distant and strangely altered times and which therefore is among' the most important episodes in the period at present in review. Under its terms, the subjects of both governments were free to navigate the Pacific and to trade with the natives of any shore not already occupied by Europeans. The traders might land at the posts of their rivals for shelter or repairs, but for no other reason, unless by express permission. Prince of Wales Island was established as the southern limit of Russian territory, the island to belong wholly to Russia. On the mainland, the boundary, after following the channel of the Port- land Canal to the 56th parallel 5 was to lie along the summits of the coast range of mountains which it should follow parallel to the shore as far as longitude 141 0 . Thence it should run due north to the Arctic Ocean. Where the summits of the mountains, 118 THE ALASKA BOUNDARY however, from the 56th parallel northward should be more than ten marine leagues from the ocean, the dividing line, it was agreed, should curve with the curving of the shore at that distance. For ten years the British were granted the right to trade throughout the lisière and to the port of Sitka in all save .arms, ammunition, and spirits. To the streams running through the shore-strip to the ocean, the right was granted in perpetuity. Such was the beginning of the Alaska boundary question, a matter that was not finally laid to rest until 1903. The terms were dictated purely by the circum- stances of the rival trading companies, the only' value of the coast-strip to the Russians being that it excluded the British from the trade of the inter- ior. Intercourse was held at that time by the Rus- sians only,vith the Indians of the coast, the latter bartering with the inland tribes at the head of the nlountains. Furs and furs alone were the cause of contention in 1825 ; the land, which in 1903 'vas the point at issue, was at that tilne regarded as worthless. The navigable rivers, it will have been noted, were left as an avenue by which the British traders might pierce the Russian cordon to the interior. In 1834, the first attempt to utilize this conceSSIon was made. The r{lost considerable river crossing the strip of land below the 141st degree was the Stikine. To enter it, traverse the Russian zone, and establish a post in the hinterland, was the object of an expedition sent north 119 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS under Ogden and Anderson in the year mentioned. Th party was well equipped, as befitted one whose mission was the founding of a station able to sup- port itself a thousand miles from any base of supplies, and to fight both savages and rivals. But it had appar- ently reckoned without its host. At the mouth of the Stikine a Russian blockhouse was encountered, supported by a corvette and two gunboats to forbid the entrance to the river. The Russians well appre- ciated the danger to their trade that lurked in the de- signs of the British; and the alleged sale of firearms and spirits to the natives was now used by Baron W rangel, the Russian governor at Sitka, as the grounds for a request to the imperial government to rescind the clause of the treaty which gave the British access to the river. \Vithout awaiting a reply, Wrangel had fortified the Stikine as soon as news of the projected move of the Hudson's Bay Company reached Sitka. The coast Indians, jealous of their commerce with the interior tribes, added their refusal to that of the Russian governor. Heated negotiations were conducted on the spot between the rivals; but after a delay of a few days the company's ship was put about and returned to Fort Vancouver, armed with a lengthy protest and bill of losses for reference to the home government. On the ,yay back, that the expedition might not be wholly fruitless, Fort Simp- son was removed some forty Iniles to the south. The negotiations that followed between Russia and Great Britain took shape finally in a com- 120 DOUGLAS AT FORT VANCOUVER mission which met in London. As a result, the shore-strip reservation was leased to the Hudson's Bay Company by Russia at an annual rental of two thousand land-otter skins. The Stikine post was handed over; and permission was given to erect another post still further northward on the Taku. It was agreed also that the British should supply the Russians at Sitka with provisions, which the in- . clemency of northern latitudes prevented the Rus- sians from raising for themselves. So satisfactory in the issue did this arrangement prove that it was three times renewed, while in addition to Fort Taku on the coast, two posts, l\lumford and Glen- ora, were erected on the Upper Stikien, where they remained until the advent of the gold-seeker drove the game from the district. Douglas played a prominent part in directing the events which ended as above described. Soon after his arrival on the coast he had revised and greatly improved the system of accounting by which the several posts of the department made annual re- turns to Fort Vancouver. .At least once he had been in charge of the York Factory express, a difficult and dangerous service, the route lying by way of \Valla \\T alia, Colville, and the Athabaska Pass, to Edmonton, thence to Hudson Bay and return. This 'vas in 1835, the party consisting of twenty- nine Canadians in three boats, eight months being consumed in the journey. It was Douglas, also, who, in 1840, was in command of the party which 121 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI.lAS raised the British flag above Fort Stikine. The mission was of considerable ìmportance. Rae, Fin- layson and the son of l\lcLoughlin, with fifty men, made up the force. By way of NisqualIy and Langley, the latter being found in ruins from an Indian attack, and passing forts McLoughlin and Simpson, they steamed in the Beaver to the head- quarters of the company in the leased territory, where the formal act of transfer was completed. A brave rescue by Douglas of a Inember of his crew who had been swept away while fording the icy waters of the Nisqually River was recorded on this journey. Rae, with eighteen men, was left at Stikine, and Douglas with the rest passed on to Sitka. Ten days were spent with Etholin in the final ratification of the agreement. Some 'words were dropped as to the purchase of Ross in California, but nothing definite resulted. On the return from Sitka, Fort Durham, commonly known as Taku, ,vas erected. In that desolate spot of almost constant rain and snow, and among some of the wildest natives of the coast, it had a life of only three years. Douglas was again in charge of the party which dismantled the post. Fort l\IcLoughlin on l\lill- bank Sound was at the same time moved to the head of Vancouver Island and renamed Fort Rupert. Indian turbulence, here as in no other part of the company's dominions, constantly menaced its affairs. l\IcLoughlin the younger, who had fol- lowed Rae at Fort Stikine, was shot in 1842, per- 122 ROBERT CAl\IPBELL haps the most signal victim of the animosity in the teeth of which the company drove its northern trade. With the movement upon Russian trade by ,vay of the sea, it had been decided to attack from the land as well; and the result was a series of expedi- tions in the northern interior of British Columbia that recall the days of l\lackenzie and Fraser. 'Vith a courage not less conspicuous, the company pushed its way into the region of the Upper Liard and Yukon which the white man had never before seen. The incident belongs in part to the develop- ment of the l\Iackenzie River Department, and in part to later history, though it may fitly be men- tioned here. On the Liard, the most wild and dan- gerous of all the great eastern streams that dash down from the Rocky l\lountains, the earliest post to be established within the confines of British Col- umbia was the fort which took its name from the river itself. Fort Nelson on the eastern branch, was built about the same period, or shortly after the be- ginning of the century. Twenty years later, Fort Liard ,vas pillaged by the Indians and its people murdered. l\feanwhile Fort Halkett had been found- ed on a higher branch, shortly after the amalgama- tion of the rival companies. In 1884, the Upper Liard was ascended by McLeod to its southern source in Dease Lake. It was not, however, until 1838 that a post was built in this remote country by a Scotsman named Robert Campbell, the most 123 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS distinguished man which the place and period pro- duced, and the last of the great explorers which the fur trade gave to the western continent. Ordered to the l\lackenzie in 1834, Campbell, after his operations at Dease Lake, crossed to ,the Pacific by the Stikine. Here he was taken prisoner by the Indians. On his escape, after terrible hardships, Fort Dease was burned to the ground. But it ,vas not until 1840 that Campbell, under orders from Sir George Simpson, undertook the journey that was to make him famous. This was the ascent of the northern branch of the Liard through the great gorge that had previously barred all hope of access to its source, Lake Frances. After a desper- ate struggle, Campbell surmou:rited the barrier, and on Lake Finlayson, a tributary reservoir, saw the waters divide, part to flow into the Pacific, part to begin the long journey to the Arctic. Beyond the height of land he sighted the cliffs of the Pelly. After descending this river a fe\v miles he turned back. The honour of naming it from himself he re- fused. In the following year, with a post on Lake Frances and another on Pelly Danks as a basis, he again set forth, but was again compelled, this time by hostile natives, to return, after reaching the point where the junction of the Lewis and the Pelly forms the great river of Alaska. It was not until eight years later that Campbell's efforts were crowned with success. On that occasion, after erecting Fort Selkirk at the mouth of the I ewis, 124 CALIFORNIA and tracing the latter to its source, he descended the Yukon several hundred miles to the junction of the Porcupine, where Fort Yukon, the most remote of the company's posts, lying one hundred and fifty miles ,vithin the Alaska boundary and on the Arctic Circle, had been built some four years earlier by the trader Bell. I-Iere Campbell united his own discoveries ,vith those made by way of the lower and less difficult branches of the l\Iackenzie. Ascending the Porcupine and crossing to the Peel, he arrived by way of the l\Iackenzie at his original point of departure, Fort SiInpson on the Liard. He had traversed in that great circle over three thou- sand miles of river and mountain; he had lnapped a huge region which before had been \vholly Ull- kno\vn; and he had given a lasting impetus to the trade inland in the direction of the Russian com- petitor; all with a forgetfulness of self that was only equalled by the splendid courage and endur- ance which the achievement demanded. In California, the endeavour of the cOlnpany to secure a foothold, while Fort Vancouver remained the entrepôt of' the department, was extended over sixteen years. The descendants of the Spaniards, who now held the country after throwing off the yoke of Spain, had neither the enterprise to estab- lish trade nor the inclination to foster it by govern- ment. Fish and furs, in small quantities only, found an outlet through }\>lexico. Nevertheless, 125 SIR JA IES DOUGl AS the efforts of Russia, England, and the United States, to establish trading-posts in the south, lnet with fierce opposition. The first attempt of the Hudson's Bay Company to invade California ,vas before 1830, the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin having at an early date attracted the attention of l\lcLoughlin. A party sent to the assistance of the American trader J edidiah Smith, who, on crossing from Salt Lake in 1827-8, had been roughly handled by the Indians and had lost a convoy of furs, penetrated as far as the Umpqua. A second expedition, under Ogden, reached the Sacramento River, and in 1835 the company estab- lished a post at the j unction of the Sacramento and Jesus l\1aria. A few years served to exhaust the furs of these outlying districts, and, with the desire to reach still further southward, a collision with Mexico became inevitable. At this contingency, Douglas was sent in charge of a party to treat with the l\lexican governor. Sailing from Fort Vancouver, December 3rd, 1840, on the ship Columbia, with a crew of thirty-six and a cargo of miscellaneous goods, he cast anchor at l\10nterey on New Year's Day, 1841. The design of the voy- age was largely political, but the crew had been increased by stockmen who were to drive north- ward a supply of cattle. The negotiations with the governor lasted until January 19th. Douglas undertook to check the operations of the company in the Tulare and outlying valleys, and in return 126 SAN FRANCISCO obtained a temporary relaxation of the law which confined the coastwise trade to J\tlexican bottoms, together with the important right for the company to trade in California by express sanction of the govern- ment. Fifty cents, it was agreed, should be paid by the company for each beaver skin taken. San Fran- cisco was immediately visited with a view to an estab- lishment, not without friction with rival traders; and Douglas was back in Fort Vancouver by the following l\lay. Rae, the son-in-law of l\lcLough- lin, was recalled from the Stikine and appointed to the new post, which was situated on Yerba Buena Cove, in the Bay of San Francisco. Simpson, then on his famous voyage around the world, and l\lcLoughlin as chief factor, visited the post soon after. For two years the record of the company's transactions was the history of San Francisco, and its servants made up almost the entire population. With the interior a steady trade in supplies sprang up. But the scale of profits from the first was below the expectation of the company. Rae fell ill, and in 1845 committed suicide. Forbes took over the control; but the governor had already decided, against the judgment of l\lcLoughlin, to abandon the post. The end came in 1846, when the company sold the establishment at Verba Buena and retired forever from San Francisco Bay. These vigorous efforts of the company in the out- lying regions of the department were accompanied 127 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS by developments in the immediate neighbourhood of Fort Vancouver which were of even greater importance. The agreement with the Russians relative to the supplying of provisions had been fraught with far-reaching consequences. From the first, l\IcLoughlin, in spite of prejudice to the con- trary, had recognized the agricultural possibilities of Oregon. The mild and equable clin1ate and the depth and richness of the soil tempted a diversity and luxuriance of growth that invited the lnost unwilling to husbandry. In the open spaces about Fort Vancouver axe and plough were set to work, and corn and live-stock reared. Sheep were brought frorn California, hogs from the Sandwich Islands, and cattle from Ross. Soon a flour mill worked by oxen was set up. Grist and sawmills followed on the Willamette. Horse breeding for the brigades became extensive. By 1835, some thirty-five hundred feet of lumber were being sawn daily; while the yield of grain ,vas annually several thousands of bushels, and the number of animals constantly on hand several hundreds. By these activities the company was saved the expense of bringing supplies through the mountains or around Cape Horn. The growing of grain was still a lnere auxiliary to the trade in peltries, and while it remained so the inherent in- compatibility of the two was not apparent. In a land of abundance, however, the supply soon ex- ceeded the local demand. Flour and lumber from the Columbia began to seek a market in the Pacific 128 THE PUGET SOUND COMPANY Islands. Sa]mon was shipped to Boston and Lon- don. 'Vith the Russian treaty, and the stimulus ,vhich it immediately gave to farming on the Col- umbia, this new phase was accentuated. The first intimation had been given, to those ,vho could un- derstand, of the final destiny of the region. Fur- trading and settled industry cannot live together. The company knew this full well. But, as it could not alter the decree of nature, its primary concern in the situation was one of organization merely- the keeping of the two divisions of its activity separate, now that the industrial branch gave pro- mise of attaining large proportions. To have charge of the important commercial and agricultural interests of the company, a separate body was deemed necessary. The formation of a cattle association by some settlers on the 'Villa- mette pointed the way; and in 1838-9, l\IcI...ough- lin obtained the sanction of the directors to the organization of the Puget Sound Agricultural Com- pany. The new undertaking was brought into being under the immediate auspices of the Hudson's Bay Company, which furnished nearly all the original shareholders. It was officered from the staff of the parent body; and it was expressly forbidden to deal in furs. On the other hand the Hudson's Bay Com- pany handed over all its cattle, sheep, horses and farming implements to it and renounced husbandry forever in Oregon. The rich and level region which lay about Nisqually and between Puget Sound and 129 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS the head waters of the Cowlitz, a branch of the Columbia which joins the latter about fifty miles fronl the ocean, offered a fa vourable field for the rearing of flocks and herds and the production of wool, hides and tallow. Farms were also opened on the Willamette. l\fcLoughlin was appointed the first manager; skilled farmers and shepherds ,vere brought from Canada and England ; and the com- pany was finally inaugurated in 1840, with a capital of 200,000 in 100 shares. Of this capital, however, no more than 16,lûO were found to have been paid up at the time the company's affairs were finally settled. It ,vould seem that the enterprise suffered almost from the start from a variety of opposing circum- stances. Into the history of its chequered career it is unnecessary here to enter, lying as the period does some years in advance of the time at present under discussion. The adoption of the 49th parallel as the international boundary, in 1846, under circum- stances to be eXplained further on, was a blow from which the company never attempted to recover. Its men deserted for the free lands of the homesteader; the natives destroyed its stock; while the technical differences between" possessions" and" possessory rights" under the boundary treaty, were a source of perpetual dispute between the companies and the United States. An offer was finally made to sell all rights and titles to the United States for $1,000,000. This ,vas not accepted, and the friction continued. 180 OPERATIONS OF 'j'HE COMPANY Again, in 1860, it was intimated, through the British ambassador at 'Vashington, that the sum of $500,000 would be accepted by Great Britain on behalf of the companies, and would release the United States from all engagements under the treaty. The company, however, maintained its position until the year 1867, hoping that by con- tinuing in business, though at a loss, it would make good its case against the United States. In the year mentioned, a commission was appointed by which the various claims were at last determined. Those of the Hudson's Bay Company were settled for $450,000 ; those of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, for $200,000. It was discovered by the commission that the latter body was indebted to the parent company in the sum of 25,000, and that except at intervals it had not paid a profit to the shareholders. The highest dividend declared was ten per cent., and this was continued for five years only, 1848-53. The last dividend paid was in 1854; it amounted to five per cent. The Hudson's Bay Company had an interest as purchaser in one thou- sand three hundred and eighty-six shares issued at par. In 1853, the company claimed one hundred and sixty-seven thousand acres at Nisqually, eighty thousand acres of ,vhich 'were prairie land. At Cow- litz, it claimed three thousand six hundred acres. In 1856, according to Tolmie, it had seven hundred and forty acres fenced at Nisqually. Of its operations on Vancouver Island there will be mention later. 131 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS McLoughlin, the first manager of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, was succeeded on his retirement by Douglas, who also severed his connection with the company in the year 1859, upon his acceptance of the governorship of the colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia. One incident in connection with the agricultural operations of the company may be noted in pass- ing. In 1829, when the soil about Fort Vancouver was first upturned, a fearful epidemic of fever and ague broke out. The whites suffered severely, but the Indians fell by thousands. Typhoid, whooping- cough and measles soon after made their first ap- pearance. In 1833 a hospital which had been erected on the Columbia had from two to three hundred cases as its usual number. Over many stirring events that had their centre in Fort Vancouver, during the period in which it dominated the life of the coast, this summary must pass in silence. The narration might be made to in- clude several daring expeditions into forest and wilderness, such, for example, as that which VV ork led in 1834 far into the wilds of Oregon, past the headwaters of the 'Vìllamette, to the buffalo country of the l\lissouri; or that ofErmatinger in 1841 to the Sacramento; or that which founded in 1832 Fort Umpqua on the route between Fort Vancouver and San Francisco Bay,-almost the only post at- tempted by the company for purposes of general 132 JEDIDIAH SMITH trade south of the Columbia. Much space, too, might be given to the internal development of the company, and to the Jife that sprang up on the Columbia, which under l\lcLoughlin was perhaps more striking than that in any other part of the company's domain. But the tree had no sooner achieved vigorous growth than it withered before the changed conditions which came with the advent of the agriculturist from the United States. To the inlportant series of events that ended in the permanent establishment of the United States in Oregon, involving the settlement of the boundary between British and American territory, the ex- tinction of the fur trade between the Columbia and the 49th parallel, and the removal of the com- pany's headquarters from Fort Vancouver to Vic- toria, the rest of this chapter will be devoted. As before, Douglas was the close spectator, if not the actual director, of almost every move that was taken, having risen to the rank of chief trader in 1832 and of chief factor in 1840, and becoming in later years the forefront of the opposition offered by the English company to what it soon had to acknowledge was the decree of fate. Prior to 1830, the first to cross the Rockies from the United States to Oregon, since the days of the Astorians, was J edidiah Smith, who, with a band of fellow trappers, entered the Snake River coun- try in 1825. Since the \\T ar of 1812, it should be explained, Astoria had been in the possession of 133 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS the United States under an arrangement with Great Britain by which the country from the Mexican frontier for an indeterminate distance northward was held in joint sovereignty. lVlore con- cerning this arrangement will appear later on. From that time forward the possibility of the settlement of Oregon by agriculturists had been debated from time to time in congress ; but the awful perils of the journey overland and the conflicting information as to the value of the country itself led to no active result. l\Ieanwhile, as we know, l\'lcLoughlin had installed the rule of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Vancouver and had taken virtual possession of the territory north and south. Smith was a lieuten- ant of the Rocky l\lountain Fur Company, which the enterprise of the trader Ashley had made famous in the great interior of the continent, and which was the first to re-establish commercial com- munications bet,veen the United States and the territories west of the Rocky l\:1ountains. Since the dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company the trade of the Upper l\lississippi and the Missouri had been carried on by the North American Fur Company, at the head of which Astor remained, while in 1822 the Columbia Fur Company was formed, for opera- tion in the same field, from recruits from the N orth- West Company who were dissatisfied ,vith the terms of the amalgamation of 1821. Smith, after crossing twice to the Pacific and ranging through- out Northern California, was killed by Indians in 134 Al\IERICAN TRADERS 1829, but not before he had led the first train of waggons from the east to the base of the Rocky lVlountains. Sporadic expeditions followed under the command of Pilcher of the North American Company, Pattie of a 1vIissouri concern, and others to whom these operations acted as a spur; but until Bonneville and \V yeth came, direct collision with the Hudson's Bay Company was avoided. Smith in fact, as has been noted, owed his fortune, almost his life, on one occasion, to the English company, and gratitude may have found a place even in the breasts of warring fur traders. Bonneville, a French- man by birth and a captain of the United States army, having obtained in 1831 a furlough of two years, led a band of one hundred men and twenty waggons from the l\1issouri to the Columbia, where he spent two years in unsuccessful contention ,vith rival enterprises, and returned having lost all. The expeditions of ,V yeth of l\Iassachusetts, n)ade about the same time as that of Bonneville, ,vere conceived in more serious vein, but met with scarcely greater success. Two posts were founded but were almost iInmediately driven out by the competition of the I-Iudson's Bay Company. Kelly, a Boston school teacher and an enthusiast in religion and politics, had the merit of attracting attention to Oregon by an extravagant scheme of colonization, in attempting to realize which he passed through extreme hardships in California and was rescued in the end from his suffering by the Hudson's Bay 135 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS Company, against which, however, he continued to entertain to the last an implacable hatred. Unsettled in mind as he was, Kelly was nevertheless the first to declare the feasibility of overland elnigration from the United States to the Pacific, and, in writings poured forth for over a quarter of a century, to in- duce ultimately some trial of the undertaking which was to prove the true solution of the country's future. By sea, during the year 1829, the ships Convoy and Owyhee, both of Boston, attempted to open trade with the natives of the Columbia. After a year's stay on the coast, the vessels took their de- parture and were seen in these waters no more. The Owyhee was reputed to have brought the first peach trees planted in Oregon and to have carried thence the first Columbia salmon to reach the Boston markets. But the most potent factor in the permanent settlement of Oregon was the coming of the mis- sionaries. The period was the third decade of the century. The movement had its origin in an incident, striking as it was touching. About the time of 'V yeth's first expedition, there had ap- peared at St. Louis five Indians of the Nez Percés tribe who, having heard of the ,vhite man's God and His book, had come to ask that men be sent to teach their people concerning them. The story of their quest found its way into the press and ,vas re-echoed throughout the churches of the land. To 136 THE l\IISSIONARIES IN OREGON one Jason Lee, a Methodist preacher, the call came as from l\Iacedonia of old. With his nephew Daniel Lee and three lay brethren, he joined the second ex- pedition of \ïV yeth which was at the moment em- barking on its perilous march. In July 1834, Lee preached his first sermon in Oregon. 'Vith l\IcLough- lin's aid, he planted his first mission on the 'ïVilla- mette, where a few retired servants of the company had already, by permission, established themselves and were employed chiefly in herding cattle. The mission soon became the nucleus of a permanent colony drawing recruits continuously from beyond the mountains. It was the first settlement of United States citizens on the Columbia having other than a commercial object in view. Before another year had elapsed, Lee was followed by the Presbyterian missionaries Parker and 'Vhitman, the latter being joined by his 'wife. Spaulding and Gray came in 1836. The tribes of the Upper Columbia were now evangelized, 'i\Thitman settling in the valley of the 'Valla Walla and Spaulding in the Nez Percés country, and still further knowledge of the country was distributed in the Eastern States. "\i\Thitman, especially, froln the moment of his arrival in Oregon, was untiring in his agitation for the in- clusion of the country in the United States territory; and his establishment among the Cayuses soon formed a gate\vay through the mountains for the straggling lines of the settlers, which from this time forward, as a result largely of his efforts, began to 187 SIR JAl\IES DOUGI.lAS flow in ever-increasing numbers from the east to the Columbia. \Vhitman's famous ride from Oregon to \Vashington over the snow, in 1848, that he lnight superintend the immigration of the following year, is the most stirring deed of the whole move- ment. He returned with a thousand people. Schools for the education of the natives were opened; and in 1839 a printing press was set up at WalIa \iV alla on which were struck off the first sheets ever printed on the Pacific slope of America north of l\lexico. The Jesuit missionaries, who came in 1838 froln Canada, penetrated throughout the region, but had little effect on immigration. To notice in detail the various steps by which the intermittent bands of settlers attracted by the mis- sionaries to Oregon swelled into a great national movement ending in the occupation of the country by the United States, would be beyond the scope of the present chapter. Disconnected and unim- portant at first, the different strands were in a measure gathered into a self-conscious whole in 1837, with the formation in the United States of the first societies for the promotion of emigration to Oregon. From that time forward the inflow was con- tinuous, gathering volume with time. Perhaps no better view of the varied nature of the movement and of the manner in which its different constitu- ents were intermingled, is obtainable than that pre- sented by the follo\ving extracts from a document prepared by l\lcLoughlin hiInself: 188 THE SETTLEl\fENT OF OREGON "This year," he writes, with reference to 1836, "the people in the \Villamette formed a party and went by sea with l\fr. Slacum to California for cat- tle, al1d returned in 1837 'with two hundred and fifty head. In 1836, the Rev. l\Ir. Leslie and family, ac- companied by the Rev. l\Ir. Perkins, another single man, and a single woman, came by sea to reinforce the l\Iethodist l\Iission. In 1837 a bachelor and five single women also came by sea to reinforce the l\Iethodist l\lission; and three Presbyterian minis- ters came across land with their families, while their supplies came by sea. Two of these mission- aries settled in the vicinity of Colville, the other in the Nez Percés country. In 1838, two Roman Catholic missionaries caIne from Canada. This year the Rev. l\lr. Griffin of the Presbyterian Church, with his wife, came across land from the States by way of the Snake country. There came with him also a laYlnan of the nanle of Munger, and his wife . . . . In 1839 a party left the state of' Il- linois, headed by l\Ir. Farnham, with the intention of exploring the country and reporting to their countrymen who had sent them. Four only reached this place. Three relnained, l\lr. Farnham returning to the States by sea and publishing an account of his travels. l\fessrs. Geiger and Johnson came this year, sent, as they said, by people in the States to examine the country and report. Johnson left by sea and never returned. Geiger went as far as Cali- fornia and returned here by land . . . . In 1840, 139 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS the Rev. Mr. Clark of the Presbyterian Church with his wife, and two laymen with their wives, came across land on the self-supporting system, but, as their predecessors, they failed, and are now settled on the Willamette. In 1840, the Rev. l\Ir. Jason Lee, who had gone in 1838 across land to the United States, returned by sea in the Laus- anne, Capt. Spaulding, with a reinforcement of fifty-two persons, ministers and laymen, women and children, for the l\iethodist l\fission, and a large supply of goods with which the l\fethodist Mission opened a sale shop. In 1841, the American exploring squadron, under Captain 'Vilkes, surveyed the Columbia River from the entrance to the Cas- cades, and sent a party across land from Puget Sound to Colville and 'Valla 'i\T alIa, and another from Vancouver to California. At the same time the Thomas PerÀ'ins, Captain Varney, of Boston, entered the Columbia River for the purpose of trade. . . . "In the spring, the Rev. Father De Smet of the Society of Jesus came to Vancou ver from the Flat Head country where the year before he had established a mission from St. l.Jouis. He came for supplies, with which he returned to his mission. In August, the Rev. lessrs. Langlois and Bolduc Caine by sea. In the month of September, one hundred and thirty-seven men, women, and children arrived from the States. They came with their waggons to Fort Hall, and thence packed their 140 ARRIVALS IN OREGON effects on horses and drove their cattle. . . . In the fall, eight hundred and seventy-five men, women, and children came from the States by the same route as last year, bringing one thousand three hundred head of cattle. These came to The Dalles, on the Columbia River, with their waggons, drove their cattle over the Cas- cades by the same route as those of last year to the 'Villamette, and when the road was blocked by snow proceeded along the north bank of the Col- umbia to Vancouver, where they crossed the river to the Willamette, bringing down their wives, child- ren, and property, on rafts, in canoes which they hired from the Indians, and in boats belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, lent them by me. . . . . . The Rev. Father Deros [Demers] of the Society of Jesus, came this year with two other fathers of the same society and three laymen and established a mission in the Colville district. Lieu- tenant Fremont, of the United States service, came with a party to examine the country. After purchas- ing supplies from the Hudson's Bay Company, he rejoined his party at The Dalles, and proceeded across land to California. In 1844, the immigrants amounted to one thousand four hundred and seventy- five men, women and children. They came by the same route and were assisted by me with the loan of boats, as their predecessors of last year. . . . . . . . The Belgian brig, Indefatigable, also anchored there. She ,vas the only vessel that 141 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS hitherto came under that flag, and brought the Rev. Father De Smet, with four fathers of the Society of Jesus, and five Belgian nuns of the Society of Sis- ters of Our Lady. The fathers came to reinforce their mission in the interior in the Flat Head country and to establish others, and the nuns to build a convent and open a school for young females in the Willamette." Data for ascertaining the numbers that came across the plains to Oregon, from the year 1840 until the fixing of the international boundary, are incomplete and unsatisfactory. It has been estim- ated that at the close of 1841 there were in the neighbourhood of four hundred citizens of the United States in Oregon. For 1842, the estimates range, on good authority, from one hundred and five to one hundred and thirty-seven immigrants; ,vhile in the following year not less than eight hundred and seventy-five to one thousand came into the country. The nUlnber fell to seven hun- dred in 1844, but rose to three thousand in 1845, during the period that immediately preceded the final settlement of the controversy between Great Britain and the United States concerning the boundary. In 1846, the movement again fell on: this time to about one thousand three hundred and fifty. The climax of the movement, in a political sense, came in 1844. From the time of the 111issionaries, the influx had taken on the characteristics of a 142 THE GOVERNl\IENT OF OREGON great national propaganda for the annexation of Oregon to the United States. The settler conveyed a clearer title to the soil than the fur trader; the settler, therefore, under the existing conditions was a patriot as well. Of the intricacies of the debate between Great Britain and the United States con- cerning the division of Oregon, some review will be given later; it is sufficient here to advert to the political significance of the immigration movement and to the fact that this significance was under- stood by everyone who took part in it. By 1844, enough strength had been gathered for a definite declaration of policy on the spot. Political organiza- tion of some sort had, moreover, become expedient. A provisional government was accordingly erected on the Willamette, representative entirely of the American element-for the British held aloof- and established on the understanding that it would exist only until the United States extended its jurisdiction to the country. It had an executive of three and a legislature of eight. It passed several laws; but the bowie knife and pistol ren1ained the most effective engines in bringing delinquents to justice. For two years the unique experiment ,vas continued, until the treaty of 1846 erected Oregon into a territory of the American union. A word may be added with regard to the course observed by the Hudson's Bay Company towards the settlers from the United States. It was indeed a difficult situation; on the one hand, suffering men 143 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS and women, the terrible passage of the plains having left nearly all the earlier settlers in a state of destitution and defencelessness; on the other, the loss of the country to the trade. Yet there can be no doubt that. to missionaries and immigrants alike the attitude of the company was one of kindness and hospitality. How much of this was due to l\IcI..Joughlin is a question hard to answer. The significance of the influx was never misunderstood; and if upon l\lcLoughlin the bit- terness of the losing battle fell, the fact remains that when Douglas succeeded to his place no change in policy followed. Perhaps it was then too late; though in any event the movement was irresist- ible from the first. To rival traders, of course, no quarter was given; they were fought with every weapon which the wealth and long experience of the company had placed in its hand, and with un- varying success. Ingratitude on the part of those who had received its bounty is hard to account for. Yet it is a fact that the ill-will which Nlc- Loughlin incurred from the company for befriend- ing the settlers, excused as it might be by the heavy losses sustained through the policy which he had adopted, was more than equalled by the hatred with which he was pursued by some of those whom he had rescued from death in its most terrible forms, whom he had fed, clothed, and supplied with the means of obtaining a liveli- hood, and for whom he risked his own future 144 FORT VANCOUVER ABANDONED with the company. Political passion alone can account for this perversion. A year before the Oregon boundary had been finally determined, l\IcLoughlin, the picturesque and admirable, the "great white eagle" of the Pacific slope, had been forced from his command; and Douglas, more rigid in his obedience, though no more able, as it proved, to stem the tide, ruled in his stead. Such, in outline, was the nature of the move- ment which, by peopling the country south of the Columbia with a race that tilled the soil, drove out the hunter and the trapper, its discoverer and first occupant. In this way was solved the vexed problem of sovereignty in Oregon. Thenceforward the vast hiatus bebveen the Alleghanies and the Rockies ,vas bridged by the tie of a common nationality at either end; and the foot of the repub- lic was planted firmly once and for all on the shores of the Pacific. 'Vith the year 1846, the British frontier was moved back to the 49th parallel, ex- cept for the portion of Vancouver Island which lay below that line and for the possessory rights which the Hudson's Bay Company and others retained in the Columbia valley, Britain having maintained throughout that the Colum bia fonned the proper boundary bet,veen the countries. Fort Vancouver remained until 1849 as a post of the company; but the glory had departed. Coming events had cast their shado\v before; and the relnoval of the bound- ary did not find the company unprepared. Three 145 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS years before the final settlement, a fort had been established within the shelter of the ne,v lines, to inherit the prestige of Vancouver as the COln- pany's emporium on the Pacific, and to form the nucleus of the new political and social life that was to spring up with the definite determination of the national frontier. This ,vas 'Tictoria on Vancouver Island, founded by James Douglas in 1843. The event and its immediate results were of such impor- tance, both to the fur trade and the country, as to merit a chapter to themseh.es. Before approaching this part of the subject, however, it will be of in- terest to describe more fully that famous contro- versy between Great Britain and the United States concerning the Oregon boundary, some further reference to 'which is necessary in immediate con- nection with the foregoing, and of which the estab- lishment of 'Tictoria, though forestalling it in point of time, was largely in the nature of a result. 146 CHAPTER V THE OREGON BOUNDARY T HE fundamental elements of the memorable dis- pute between Great Britain and the United States concerning the Oregon boundary have been set forth incidentally in previous chapters. It will be well, however, before discussing the negotiations which brought the contest to an end, to recall in rapid review the more crucial of these early events, the significance of which bulked large in the argu- ments of later times and combined with much that was new to determine the ultimate destiny of the Pacific coast. It has been described how, in the first half of the sixteenth century, Spain alone of the European nations-partly by virtue of the Papal bull, partly in overweening power-followed a career of conq uest in the N e,v "T orld. How she was brought in due course to the Pacific, and how, after the plunder of l\Iexico and Peru, her sailors buffeted their way along the coast to the 50th parallel of latitude, was also dealt with. If such discoveries conveyed a title to the soil, Spain's sole disturber in these early days was the Englishman Francis Drake, whose descent upon New Albion was the less vexatious because, like the Spaniards themselves, he was gone almost as soon as he had come. As a matter of fact, 147 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the coast above the 42nd parallel was still to all in- tents an undiscovered country ,vhen, more than a hundred and sixty years after Drake and'Tiscaino, the expeditions of Perez, Heceta and Quadra first gave to Spain what lnight be called a title to the shore south of the 58th parallel. Cook's voyage, the discoveries of the Russians, and the rise of the British trade in sea-otter, have been re- ferred to at some length in the foregoing. The result of the advent of Great Britain in these waters was the collision at N ootka, the final set- tlement of which pricked forever the bubble of Spain's pretensions to exclusiye ownership in the Pacific, the coast being thrO"wn open to the vessels of both nations for trade, navigation and settle- ment, while each was given the right of access to the stations of the other. Vancouver's careful survey, the investigations of Quimper, and the dis- covery of the Columbia by Gray followed, Gray's exploit becoming in later years the strongest argu- ment with which the United States contested her claim to Oregon. Soon after, the epoch-making ex- pedition of l\Iackenzie overland opened the \vay to the first permanent settlement ,vest of the Rocky l\Iountains. Of the part played by American navi.. gators, who for a decade after 1800 monopolized the trade of the coast, and the momentous series of incidents that grouped themselves about the J ...ouisiana purchase, including the expedition of Lewis and Clark and the founding of Astoria, full 148 TRANSFER OF ASTORIA mention has already been made. With this review by way of brief reminder, the negotiations that led to the first formal understanding between Great Britain and the United States-the powers who in the process of time inherited the tangled skein of claim and counter-claim to Oregon-may be outlined from the beginning. Upon the close of the War of 1812, it had been agreed 1 between Great Britain and the United States that territory taken by either nation in the course of the hostilities should be restored to its original owner. No allusion was made to the country west of the Rocky l\lountains, nor were boundaries anywhere defined. Astoria, which had been pur- chased in 1818 by the North-'Vest Company from its founders, remained in the possession of the British traders. There had been features, however, in connection with the transfer of that famous post, which imparted to the transaction a significance out of the ordinary. It will be remembered that the sale was made by agents who, though employees of the American company, were British by birth and sentiment; that it took place in the expectation of the arrival of an overpowering British force; and that, almost immediately upon the consummation of the purchase, the British sloop of war Raccoon took possession of the post, over which the British flag was raised, the name being at the same time changed to Fort George. I-Iow much or how little 1 By the Treaty of Ghent, December 24th, 1814. 149 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS of the contiguous territory attached to the fort was always an open question. The bearing of these in- cidents ,vas not lost sight of in the United States. No definite action was taken, however, until 1817, ,vhen the right to be reinstated on a national basis at Astoria ,vas formally put forward, on the ground that the circumstances attending the transfer of 1813 mnounted virtually to belligerent capture, and that the restoration of the fort was therefore in- cluded in the treaty which closed the war. After a brief demurrer, the claim was admitted by Lord Castlereagh for England,-completely and uncon- ditionally, it was afterwards urged by the United States, though probably in the first instance with the idea merely of acknowledging the right of the United States to be regarded as the party in possession while discussion of the title to the ad- joining territory was in progress. It should be ex- plained that by the prolonged inactivity of Spain, the absorption of Russia in her northern trade, and the elimination of France by the purchase of Louisiana, the United' States had by this time di vided with Great Britáin the leading interest in . the region. The American flag was accordingly raised again over the site of Astoria, though the English com pan y remained in possession for several years longer. Herein, it may be said, was the beginning of that irritating controversy between Great Britain and the United States which, after so many years of disquietude tinged ,vith bitterness, 150 THE TREATY OF 1818 ended in the loss to the former of a territory of singular value. From the restitution of Astoria to the next stage of the proceedings was but a step. 'Vhile the armed vessel despatched by the United States to take over the post was still upon the seas, a negotiation had been begun at I...ondon between pleni potentiar- ies of the two powers, for the adjustment of various matters left untouched by the Treaty of Ghent. Among these was the question of the clailns of the respective countries to the territory west of the Rocky l\Iountains. The United States, it appeared, did not assert a perfect title to that region; but she insisted that her claim was at least good against that of Britain. Great Britain was no less inclined to consider her own rights as antedating those of any other power, at least in the country north of the Columbia. l\Iessrs. Rush and Gallatin for the United States, and l\Iessrs. Robinson and Goul- burne for Great Britain, conducted the deli- berations. There was an exchange of superficial argument, which did little more than confirm the situation established by the restoration of Astoria a few months previously. An agreement in which the deadlock that had now been reached stood fully revealed was at last arrived at, October 20th, 1818. Under its terms, neither nation was granted exclusive sovereignty in the re- gion lying between the 42nd and 55th parallels; both, however, might trade or establish settlements 151 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS at unoccupied points; each was granted a rightful title to the posts it had already built; and either might interfere to protect its subjects in local quarrels. The agreement was limited to ten years. Both nations hoped, ere the period was ended, to strengthen their respective rights to possession: England by the actual occupancy of her fur traders; the United States by the ineyitable expansion of the republic across the mountains, if, as ,vas still in doubt, the Pacific Fur Company should not rise from its ashes. By both, therefore, the treaty was construed as a victory. Yet it settled nothing; it merely launched the question upon the uncertain sea of the future, to drift whithersoever the currents of chance Inight carry it. 'Vith the year 1818, therefore, and the conclusion of the agreement above nlentioned, the Oregon boundary question stood forth in clear-cut outline before the nations upon whom time had laid its solution. There was great ignorance, great indiffer- ence concerning it; but for the t,venty-eight years of its troubled existence, though much that was ne'v in argulnent was brought to bear from time to time, the issue itself remained unchanged. Great Britain held throughout that the boundary should follo,v the 49th parallel from the Rocky l\Iountains to the Columbia, descending the rÍ\Ter thence to the sea; the United States claimed the entire coast from California to Alaska as of right, but were at all times ,villing to agree that the boundary should 152 TREATIES 'VITH SPAIN AND RUSSIA follow the 49th parallel to the Pacific. Only the more important phases of the question and of the arguments employed as it passed through the mazes of diplomacy can be touched upon in the following paragraphs. On February 22nd, 18] 9, the Florida treaty was signéd between the United States and Spain. The treaty, apart from its main object, dealt largely with the boundary between Louisiana and Spanish territory. This, it was agreed, should follow the 42nd parallel from the head"waters of the Arkansas to the Pacific. North of that line the Spanish title to the coast was vested in the United States-a provision that led to much searching of records later, in the endeavour to determine the value or the title thus transferred. Soon after, negotiations as to spheres of influence were begun by the U Gited States ,vith Russia, whose arm had stretched as far south as the California coast. As a result, a treaty was obtained in 1824 which fixed the line of 54 0 40' as the lin1Ït beyond which neither nation was to found establishments without per- mission of the other. In the year following, as has been already noted, a similar boundary was agreed upon by Russia and Great Britain, with this difference, that the claim of the latter to the in- terior country extending northward to the Arctic Ocean ,vas at the same time admitted. Some at- tempt at a joint conference between the three powers had previously failed, in part through 153 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS emotions raised by the prornulgation of the Monroe doctrine. IHeanwhile negotiations between Great Britain and the United States were re-opened in London, the situation being in this way cleared for the renewal of the argument as between these countries alone. Spain, Russia and France, the re- Inaining powers who, at one time or other, had held claims to varying portions of the coast, were now finally eliminated from the controversy. For over three years the recrudescence of the question in this simplified form provoked a vigour of discussion that was exceeded only during the closing stages of the dispute, still some eighteen years in the future. Great Britain was represented by Huskisson and Stratford Canning, the United States by Rush. A claim to exclusive ownership by the latter, based on the Spanish transfer, the dis- coveries of Gray, and the founding of Astoria, and backed by a reference to the l\Ionroe doctrine, led to an immediate impasse. A debate in congress soon after, in which a proposal was Inade to occupy the Columbia by a military force, had the result of bringing for the first time unequivocally into light the latent feeling of the British cabinet with regard to Oregon, as a territory not worth fighting for, though not to be relinquished in a manner repugnant to British pride. Unfortunately, the knowledge of this soon passed to the American camp. \Vhen the negotiations were resumed in 1826, Gallatin succeeding Rush, and Addington 154 THE SETTl..El\lENT OF 1827 taking the place of Canning, the revelation had un- doubted weight in obtaining an arrangement which virtually perpetuated the agreeInent of 1818. For both parties a compromise of the sort Inight again be interpreted as a victory. Great Britain retained the advantages of actual possession, which since the VVarof1812 had been complete, and the prospective profits of the fur trade. The United States might still reflect ,vith satisfaction that the settler, who alone would confer a permanent interest in the land, "Tas far more likely to come from the republic than from England. No loss of dignity was sustained on either side; and to break an amicable and profitable arrangement for a mere title of possession ,,"'ould, as Greenhow remarks, have been foolish as well as unrighteous. The knowledge and acumen displayed by both parties in the notes ex- changed during the closing stages of the negotiations were well-nigh perfect, being in strong contrast with the slip-shod information that did service in the protocols of eight years previously. They were, of course, of no a vail in modifying the result, except in one particular: the arrangement of 1827 'vas made subject to abrogation at any tÜne by either party upon twelve months' notice. The matter thereupon relapsed for over ten years longer into a state of calm. But if parlian1ent, congress, and the diplomatic corps heard nothing of the controversy during that interval, the question was far from slumbering. By 155 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the irresistible march of events, it had in fact been brought before the tribunal whose judgment was to be final. The Oregon boundary had at last be- come a popular question. Reference has been al- ready made to that stream of settlement which, be- ginning soon after 1830, had, within the decade and a half .which followed, sent thousands of Alnerican farmers into the valleys south of the Columbia. The United States, with the kno".ledge gained in 1827, saw in this the fulfilment of her expectation. There was no need now of armed occupation; every settler was a soldier, and his wife and family part of an American garrison. l\Iuch matter was silently gathered, in the way of settlers' petitions and re- ports of missionaries and traders, against the day of final reckoning. A little later, congress ,vas able to add to this the call of the provisional government erected in Oregon in the anticipation of an immedi- ate extension of United States sovereignty. Popular murmurings grew meanwhile into a shout. Pamph- lets and books ,vere multiplied apace. 'Vith skilful repression, however, the issue was excluded from the negotiations held with Lord Ashburton in 1842 which had for subject the north-eastern boundary. But ,vith that victory won, the flood of passion was no longer stemmed. Tyler's conciliatory language in 1843, served but as fuel to the flame. The exchange of views in 1844 and later, bet,veen the British minister Pakenham and l\Iessrs. Calhoun and Buchanan for the United States, revealed only a 156 THE FINAL SETTLE1\1ENT modification of the previous arguments, except for the altered tone of the American proposals. The Baltimore platform of 1844, on which Polk was elected president, declared the title of the United States to the" whole of Oregon " to be " clear and unquestionable," and" fifty-four forty or fight" be- came the shibboleth of half a nation. The" whole of Oregon," it may be repeated, meant the entire region between California and Alaska, three quarters of which had been discovered and explored, and were now held, by the British fur traders. Popular clamour alone forced a claim of this magnitude upon the government, which as the event proved, was ready enough to agree to a com- prolnise. Polk as president, did what he was elected to do in the matter of Oregon. Arbitration was re- fused on the ground of the difficulty of securing an unbiassed tribunal in monarchical Europe. The chances of war were freely canvassed in both countries, and there was bluster on both sides. ltIoderate language, however, was at all times pre- served in the official correspondence. In the end, a simple notice of the abrogation of the existing treaty was served upon England, who at once pro- posed the 49th parallel as the boundary from the mountains to the middle of the channel which divides \r ancouver Island from the mainland, the line to run frorn that point southerly by the middle of the saIne channel to the Pacific. Clauses ,vere added giving certain rights of navigation to Great 157 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS Britain on the Columbia, and safeguarding the pro- perty of the Hudson's Bay and Puget Sound Agri- cultural Conlpanies in the territory south of the 49th degree. The suggestion was at once accepted by the United States. The boundary, it was found by the orators, was wonderfully adapted to the natural divisions of the two countries, parting the two great watersheds of the Fraser and the Columbia with the same accuracy that it divided, east of the mountains, the rivers flowing into Hud- son Bay from those that fall into the Gulf of l\fexico. It had, indeed, been part of Gallatin's argument in 1826-7 that the 49th parallel divided the dis- puted frontage on the Pacific into two nearly equal parts, whereas, if the Columbia were aecepted as the boundary, less than one-third would accrue to the United States. Better, however, than its geograph- ical excellence, appreciation of which can scarcely be looked for in Canada, the new boundary repre- sented the peaceful solution of a long and trying difficulty, the arbitrament of which by war between two kindred peoples would have been an unspeak- able calamity, however much it may be regretted that more of justice had not mingled with the terms of settlement. Such, in the essentials, was the manner in which that famous controversy concerning the division of Oregon arose, raged, and was finally placed at rest. Its dust has long been laid; and there is no desire on any hand to disturb it. It is necessary, however, 158 ACQUISITION OF SOVEREIGNTY in this place, to note, in addition to the foregoing, something of the matter as well as the manner of the contest, now that the smoke of it has rolled far off and the facts are as we may assume they will remain. The wealth, indeed the endless diffuseness, of the material has been remarked. It permits a perfect view of the opposing claims as they ap- peared to their exponents, and furnishes as well a comprehensive means of classifying those opinions according to the accepted principles of international usage. Sovereignty over new territory may be acquired by a nation in five ways: by discovery; by settle- ment; by contiguity; by treaty; and by prescrip- tion. All acts upon ,vhich a claim to sovereignty may be based must, of course, be those of a gov- ernment and not of unauthorized individuals. The aquisition of territory is a grave act, imposing as a necessary consequence upon the state acquiring it the manifold duties of administration. Private per- sons cannot aSSUlne such responsibilities, and their discoveries, settlements or treaties confer no bene- fits and impose no obligations upon the state from which they have proceeded. In the light of these principles let us notice some of the claims of the several powers which at one time or other possessed an interest in Oregon. Discovery (which may be grouped with settle- ment in this brief resumé) in itself does not convey a perfect title in international law. It is the first 159 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS step to a title-an "inchoate act of sovereignty"; but it must be followed by possession and settle- ment; and the settlement must be continuous and permanent. If occupation lapses for any reasonable length of tilne, the title lapses with it. As to the discovery of nluch of' the north-\vest coast, Spain might undou btedly claim that honour; and the establishlnent of N ootka 'was designed to confer the added right of possession and occupation. But it was never acknow ledged that this single settle- ment could hold so vast a region, or that the voy- ages of Cook and others might not also rank as voyages of discovery. The convention of Nootka gave to England in 1790 equality with Spain in north-western America. That Gray and Lewis and Clark were the first to reach the lower waters of the Columbia was undeniable; as it ,vas equally undeniable that the northern and principal branch was first seen by Thompson, and that l\leares and Vancouver had preceded Gray on the coast, though they had not sighted the great river itself. Again, if the founding of Astoria preceded the British posts of the upper river, those of New Cale- donia preceded both. As to the question whether the operations of fur-trading associations, such as the North-'Vest and Hudson's Bay Companies, con- stituted occupation in the sense recognized by in- ternational usage, the vie,v in general of the United States was that they did not. Yet the establishment at Astoria was in no sense different to the posts of 160 DISCOVERY AND SETTI.JEl\IENT the British companies, and the United States from the moment of the restoration sought to base on it a claim to the adjacent territory, notwithstanding the immediate protest of England that the settle- ment was an encroachment on British dominions. The territory to \vhich the post of a fur trader might constitute a claim \vould seem to depend upon the radius of influence exerted. The Russian settlement in California, for example, ,vas never made the basis of a claim for territory. l\loreover, Gray's ship was a trading and not a national vessel, and the first exploration of the lo\ver Colulnbia, as distinct from its discovery, was made by Broughton, an Englishman. -tstoria also, according to the British view, was a purely private enterprise, and its foundation not to be construed as occupation in a national sense. The Hudson's Bay C01l1pany, on the other hand, possessed at least a quasi-official existence, under royal charter and an assurance of protection from the British government. It exer- cised judicial functions in respect to civil and criminal processes over its servants, \vhile the juris- diction of the Canadian courts of law extended over the entire country coteflninous ".ith the limits of the company's franchise. It engaged in the cul- tivation of the soil before a single immigrant frolll the United States had planted foot in Oregon. Gallatin, who denied that any claim to sovereignty could arise out of the occupation of the country by mere fur-trading corporations established for the 161 SIR JAl\1ES DOUGLAS purpose of traffic alone, admitted that the modest factory at Calcutta had grown into the British Empire of India, having an undisputed rule over hundreds of millions of people-in other words that the force of international law in this connection takes its colour largely from attendant circum- stances. Such as it was, the British occupation of the Columbia, after the "r ar of 1812, and especially after the amalgmnation of the N orth- 'i\T est and Hudson's Bay Companies in 1821, was complete. During the decade after the restoration of Astoria, scarcely an American trader was seen in the country or on the coast, notwithstanding that in the meantime the introduction of steanl vessels on the l\lississippi and the l\lissouri had greatly improved facilities for communication. From 1813 until 1837, in fact, the quiet and almost exclusive use of the Columbia "Tas enjoyed by Britain. Even in the final stages of the controversy the American settle- ments were entirely on the southern bank of the Columbia, while the British posts lay both north and south. At an early date, however, Great Britain threw away whatever benefits she might have won by reason of this occupation, when she placed her- self on record as ,vaiving any claim to exclusive sovereignty over any portion of the country be- tween the Columbia and the 49th degree, and as standing simply for joint occupancy while the right to exclusive domain remained in abeyance. " The qualified rights which Great Britain now possesses 162 CONTIGUITY over the whole of the territory in question" wrote Huskisson and Addington in 1826," embrace the right to navigate the waters of those countries, the right to settle in and over any part of them, and the right to freely trade with the inhabitants and occupiers of the same. It is fully admit ed that the United States possesses the saIne rights, but beyond they possess none." The restoration of Astoria was not, according to Great Britain, in any sense a relin- quishment of'title in the surrounding territory. But the practical effect of the admission above was that the nation ,vho first occupied the country with settlers should be entitled to exercise those rights of sovereignty which possession of this kind commonly bestows. How time fought the battle of the United States in this has been already sho,vn. Contiguity has been defined as of two kinds- perfect and imperfect. The first involves the right of a nation to exclude all others from a territory the command of which, though actually not within her boundaries, is essential to her convenience and security. It was not, of course, contended that a foreign settlement west of the Rocky l\lountains would threaten the welfare of the Atlantic seaboard. The United States had no Pacific commerce to pro- tect, and at no time prior to 1846 was the possession of Oregon essential to her safety or existence. The report of General J esup to a select committee of congress in 1823, to the effect that the command of the Columbia was necessary for protection from 168 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the tribes of the frontier, revealed even in its re- commendations that the more ilnmediate gain in contemplation was the dispossession of the British traders. The other title of contiguity has been de- fined as a preferable right to acquire lands, which, though they may be neither settled nor necessary for convenience or defence, are geographically one with the acquiring nation. In this connection it was urged that Oregon belonged more naturally to the United States than to any other power. From the earliest attempts at colonization in America, the whole breadth of the continent between certain parallels of latitude was ordinarily granted to colonies established only at points on the borders of the Atlantic. l\Ioreover, it could not be doubted that, after 1835, Oregon and Texas offered the most natural outlet for the rapidly growing population of the United States, in view especially of the pre- vailing opinion that the adjoining central division of the continent offered no inducements to settlers. Nevertheless it should be borne in mind that even from the United States, Oregon, in the words of Cal- houn, was distant more than thirteen thousand miles by sea, a voyage, in 1846, of six months, and more than two thousand Iniles by land, a Jnarch of one hundred and twenty days. That Louisiana originally extended to the J}acific ,vas denied by Ad- dington. But that the territory under dispute lay as much in the pat.h of the British crossing from the Peace and Saskatchewan as of those who traded from 164 TREATY RIGHTS the l\Iississippi and l\Iissouri was also insisted upon. As a matter of fact, the free navigation of the Columbia was in the early years essential to the maintenance of the British trading-posts in the in- terior, south as ,veIl as north of the 49th parallel, and ,vas the "basis of that vigorous attempt to bring the whole coast northward under British trade in- fluence, the success of which has been described. Colonization from Britain or Canada ,vas not for the time thought possible. The latter had no re- dundance of population, and to both more suitable fields lay closer at hand. At the very moment, in fact, the United States themselves were drawing steadily from Britain her surplus population in a stream that could not easily have been diverted to other channels. . l\luch was made in the course of the dispute of the bearing of various treaties upon the rights in- volved. The Treaty of Ghent, in its application to Astoria, has been already referred to. The conven- tions between .Russia and England, and between Russia and the United States, also, need not be further mentioned. Debate raged fiercest about the Florida treaty of 1819. 'Vhat was the nature of the title derived from Spain by that treaty? By the United States it was regarded as perfect against that of any other European power at the time of transfer. By England it was denied that Spain had any title whatever to convey in 1819. The explan- ation of this diversity of opinion dates back to the 165 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS N ootka convention and the war which broke out between England and Spain in 1796 and continued with only a short intermission until 1809. Granting that the Nootka convention adlnitted Great Britain to certain rights on the north-west coast, it was held by the United States that the convention was an instrument of a commercial nature merely, that the right then granted to England to found settlements did not involve the conveyance of sovereignty to any part of the region, and that in any other event the convention had been terminated by the sub- sequent wars. In 1819, according to this vie\v, the United States fell heir to the original right of Spain to the exclusive O"wnership of the coast. To this the British rejoinder was that the convention was not a merely temporary or commercial con- cession; that it destroyed rather than iInplied the exclusive title of Spain; that the settlements per- mitted were quite compatible with local sovereignty; and in general that the title which Spain had failed to make good in 1790 and \vhich Great Britain had successfully challenged at the moment of its greatest strength, could not now be revived simply because of an agreement with a third power, the more so that, for over a quarter of a century, it had fallen into complete disuse. After her formal aban- donment of the coast in 1795, Spain's only right was one which she shared in common with England and the United States; the only right, therefore, that she could convey in 1819 was one which the latter al- 166 PRESCRIPTION ready possessed. As to the Louisiana purchase, this was never successfully maintained as affecting boun- daries west of the Rocky l\Iountains, unless as an argument from contiguity; moreover, Louisiana in 1790 belonged to Spain and was therefore included in the provisions of the Nootka convention and in the later considerations applying to the title of Spain. Out of the right of contiguity, perfect and imper- fect,it might be contended that the United States had evolved the last of the rights above mentioned- that of prescription. To prescription the application of the l\lonroe doctrine ,vas akin. By the free and independent condition which the American contin- ents had assumed, they were no longer, according to the l\lonroe doctrine, to be considered as subjects for colonization by European powers. But the future colonization of Oregon, it had been agreed, would determine the destiny of the region. So far as the doctrine applied to South America, which had re- cently cast off the yoke of Spain, Great Britain sympathized with its object and was prepared to support it. In the case of the Oregon question, however, it had the effect merely of rendering the British government much l ss disposed to conces- sion, while tending to produce a union of views, approaching alnlost to a league, between Great Britain and Russia, which in the result proved of distinct disadvantage to the United States. An effort to apply the cumulative principle to the argulnents of the United States under the above 167 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS headings was made during the negotiations of 1827. If, separately, objection might be made to each, con- sidered together they were believed to establish the American claim on a solid foundation. To this the reply was that the claims based on discovery, ac- quisition from Spain, and contiguity, were in many respects incompatible the one with the other, and could not, therefore, be united. If, for example, the title of Spain by first discovery, or that of France, as the original owner of Louisiana, were advanced, it was evident that one or other of these countries held the territory at the time of Gray's discoveries, and that the latter therefore could not be put forward as conferring a claim. If, however, the importance of Gray and the Astorians was emphasized, by so much were the Spanish or French titles diminished. The device of admitting iInperfections in the several elements in order to give strength to the aggregate was, therefore, in the present case, of little avail. The United States, in counter reply to this, argued that, though in differ- ent hands the several claims would conflict one with the other, they supported each other when united in the same power. Great Britain has been bitterly censured by a school of opinion in Canada for the loss of Oregon between the 49th parallel and the Columbia. The charge has this foundation: that it is possible to perceive ho\v the country might have been 168 IGNORANCE CONCERNING OREGON saved. It will be well, however, to be explicit on this point. In the final analysis, lack of knowledge of the value of Oregon, by inducing a perfectly natural but by no means logical apathy as to its political future, was probably the cause of the loss, if lost that may be called which ,vas never held in undisputed possession. :For lack of knowledge on the part of Great Britain there was abundant ex- cuse. The ,vhole of the western continent which she held, disputed and undisputed alike, was in the grasp of men whose guiding purpose was to per- petuate the mystery in which the land had been wrapped from the beginning. England's attitude throughout the controversy was simply that of champion to her fur traders 'whose outposts had been threatened ,vith invasion, to \vhich in process of time was added the consideration of national pride. l\Ioreoyer her ignorance of the country must be considered relatively. It ,vas at least no greater than that of the United States until a comparatively late stage of the dispute. Jefferson ahnost alone in the early days of the republic showed real know- ledge of the importance of the west, or at least of the diplomacy by which it was to be won. As late as 1844, when the controversy had entered its most acrimonious phase, Greenho\v, the historiographer of congress, one of the most learned authorities on the subject, appraised as practically valueless the territory in dispute, though he wrote the most able of the treatises put forth in the behalf of the United 169 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS States to prove the latter's title to the land in question. Gallatin, the American comInissioner to England in 1826-7, shared the common view. In the early debates in congress opinions were freely expressed as to the worthlessness of the country. 'Vebster had none of the popular enthusiasm concerning Oregon, at a time when the name was a slogan thoughout the United States. The Inass of the people before 1840 knew little and cared less about Oregon. The ignorance of Great Britain, therefore, is not remarkable. To the British nation at large, Oregon was no more than a name. A writer in the Edinburgh Review of July 1845 reflected the best informed public sentiment of his day when he said: " It seems probable that in a few years all that formerly gave life to the country, both the hunter and the prey, will become extinct, and their place will be supplied by a thin white and half-breed population, scattered along the few fertile valleys, supported by the pasture in- stead of by the chase, and gradually degenerating into the barbarism, far more offensive than that of the savage, which degrades the backwoodslnan." Again: "The great error of all parties has been the inlportance attached to Oregon. ,. And again: " It is much that the real worthlessness of the country has been established. All that any prudent Englishman or American can wish is, that the con- troversy should be speedily and harmoniously settled." Still more remarkable were the conclusions 170 THE ATTITUDE OF GREAT BRITAIN of the same writer as to the future of Oregon: " However the political questions between England and America as to the ownership of Oregon may be decided, Oregon will never be colonized overland from the United States . . . . 'Vhoever is to be the future owner of Oregon, its people will come from E " urope. I et it be said, moreover, that once the question assumed practical importance, England displayed both keenness of interest and firmness of purpose in handling it. That she had recourse in 1846 to every resort short of war is undeniable. But the truth is, her point of view had been Inistaken from the first, and the battle was lost before ever it came to be fought. Diplomacy, as it proved, could avail nothing in dealing with an issue of this nature once it had arisen. Three opportunities had been pre- sented when, by a decisive stroke, the region might have been won: in the settlement of the Nootka affair; in the treaty which closed the War of 1812 ; and in 1818. Each time a compromise was accepted in the interest of a " speedy and harmonious" settle- ment and in the mistaken trust that the future would strengthen the hands of Great Britain; each time the door was left open for further con- troversy; each time the renewal of the dispute found the position of Great Britain weakened. In striking contrast was the subtle and far-seeing diplomacy of the United States, which from the :first permitted no ignorance of the present and 171 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS actual to preclude appreciation of the future and potential. When the time for final settlement arrived, there had been added to this general prin. ciple of acquisition for its own sake all the ,veight of established industrial interests, of an awakened public opinion, and of an inflamed and prejudiced national spirit. Popular clam our alone was respon- sible for the claim to the" whole of Oregon,"-a claim that became serious only when party politics seized upon it as an issue. England who had bred and fostered Cook, Vancouver and l\lackenzie, ,vas, in this vie\v, nothing less than a usurper throughout the coast; while the Hudson's Bay Company, which had saved the first American settlers from starva- tion and murder by the Indians, \\ras but a greedy and inhuman monopoly, the willing tool of a goyernment that was now attempting the crime of grand larceny from the United States. Such was the temper of the American press and people ,vhen the issue 'was for the last time joined and lost. But the loss should bear the date, not of 1846, but of that earlier time when the first failure was record- ed either to appreciate the splendid destiny which awaited the region, or to grasp the means which would have brought it permanently under British influence. The foregoing brief review of the facts and prin- ciples involved in this historic controversy will at least have shown that the issues, obscured as they 172 EXPANSION OF THE UNITED STATES had been by clouds of witnesses and a mass of con- flicting testimony in which personal interests and national prejudices were alike intermingled, proved simple enough, once the final stage had been reached and the circumstances had forced the countries to an agreement. By these circumstances and not by any theories of international jurisprudence, was the fate of Oregon decided. In 1840 the question was as far from solution as ever. The argull1ents from history and law had been exhausted long ago. No exclusive right could be established by either party as the case then stood. The superior advantages 'which Great Britain at one tinle held, she had long since waived, and had been content to trust the future to its o,vn developments. These had now matured. The great nation of the Atlantic seaboard was by every instinct of its origin and by every dictate of the policy in which its early steps had been directed, a nation of expansionists on this continent. From clearing to clearing, from settle- ment to settlement, from township to township, and at last from state to state, its inevitable way led westward. Even its missionaries were pioneers of empire. As Canaan became the land of Israel, so ' the United States possessed Oregon. It was of in- finitely greater value to her than to Great Britain in 1846. No president or government, it would be safe to say, could have consented then to less than was received by the United State , no matter what rights of others were involved. \Var only could 173 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS have maintained Great Britain in Oregon. Of a war, after serious thought, she considered Oregon not worth the price. Thus ended it. 174 CHAPTER VI VICTORIA T HE year 1843 was a turning point in the history of the north-west coast. }"ate had by that time unequivocally declared that the north and not the Columbia must be the final abode of the fur , trade and the nation whose protection it enjoyed. The company read the signs of the times, and had begun to prepare for the inevitable. Long before the boundary had been named, the desirability of shift- ing the chief seat of the trade northward had be- come manifest. It was impossible to secure peltries on the Columbia in the face of increasing settle- ment; and for some time past a point of strategic and commercial advantage, beyond reach of the conditions that were rendering Vancouver unten- able, had been diligently sought by the company. There were many reasons why Camosun,l the Indian village on the site of which the city of Victoria now stands, should have attracted the at- tention of the traders. Esquimalt,2 where a more commodious harbour exists, might have been deemed more suitable for a city; it was not, how- 1S pe ll e d "Carnosack" by Doug-las, who gives the native interpreta- tion as "rush of waters." By others the name is derived from Carnass, a plant with an edible root, greatly in favour of the Indians, and abundant in the vicinity of Victoria. Sit Iswhoymalth.. in the spelling of Douglas. 175 SIR JAl\:IES DOUGLAS ever, a city that the company thought to establish, but a post for the prosecution of the fur trade. As early as 1837, .l\1cN eill had explored the southern end of Vancouver Island and had found an excel- lent harbour and fine open country, apparently well adapted for tillage and pasturage, along the shore. Simpson himself, during the voyage previously re- ferred to, had noted the fertile soil, the abundance of timber, and the equable climate of Camosun, and had predicted that the place would become in time "the most valuable section of the coast above California." Douglas, finally, in 1842, had made a careful examination of the locality and had reported favourably. The agricultural possibilities of the re- gion, which rendered the vicinity of Fort Van- cou ver of such value, were insisted upon, the re- quirements of the Puget Sound Company having now to be consulted no less than those of the Hud- son's Bay Company proper. On the whole, the directorate in London had unrivalled information at its command before resolving on any change. l\IcLoughlin, Douglas, 'V ork, Ogden, Tolmie, Finlayson, Anderson and l\IcN eill formed a body of men whose local knowledge might he regarded as perfect; while at hOlne the company's Inanage- ment included several to whonl every project in the councils of the nation 'was well-known. Fortified with the approval of both London and Vancouver, official sanction to the establishment of a fort at Camosun was soon given. The new post would be 176 FOUNDING OF ,rICTORIA near the ocean, yet protected from it. A great island lay to the northward; and to a huge continent it formed the natural entrepôt. It stood at a cross'ways of the waters, to the west being the Strait of Juan de Fuca, to the south Puget Sound, and to the north the Gulf of Georgia. It commanded the first good harbour north of San Francisco, the en- trance to the Columbia having proved difficult even to the ships of that period. Some idea, too, of the trade possibilities of Alaska, the Northern In- terior, the Orient, the Pacific Islands, and South America, doubtless crossed the minds of the men who sat in the council chamber of Lime Street, London. l\Ioreover, it was a point of great natural beauty, 'Tictoria taking rank to-day as the most picturesque of all the cities of the Pacific shore. The expedition which was dispatched to establish the post set sail from Fort Vancouyer on l\larch 1st, 1843. It consisted of fifteen men, and it was under the command of James Douglas. Nisqually and the Cowlitz country were visited for supplies; and at New Dungeness the Indians were noti- fied of the intended action of the company. Cross- ing Fuca Strait, the party cast anchor within Shoal Point on l\Iarch 14th. According to tradition, the spot on which Douglas first landed ,"vas knee-deep in clover at the time, from which it received the Dame by which it is still known-Clover Point. The native Songhees, ,"vho had a stockade at the head of the harbour, showed surprise, but no hostility, sur- 177 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS rounding the steamship Beaver, which had brought the party, with a swarm of welcoming canoes. Considerations of detail at once engaged the at- tention of Douglas. The selection of a site and the obtaining of a supply of timber for the projected fort were the first steps necessary. The question of an anchorage apparently decided the former, the post being placed where the present Court House of Victoria stands on Bastion Square. A steamer of the draught of the Beaver found no difficulty, in 1843, in casting anchor off the site of the present wharf of the Hudson's Bay Company. By l\Iarch 16th, the men were already at work squaring tim- bers and digging wells. The natives, pleased at the prospect of trade, were given employment making pickets, each picket to be twenty-two feet long and three feet in circulIlference, axes and other tools be- ing lent them for the purpose and payment being made at the rate of one blanket for forty pickets. These preliminaries under way, Douglas steamed northward in April to Forts Taku and l\IcI oughlin, which it had been decided at headquarters to aban- don, and the crews of ,vhich were needed to aug- ment the scanty force at Fort Camosun. With Douglas to Victoria came Bolduc, the Jesuit missionary, reputed the first priest to set foot on Vancouver Island. The natives proved ready converts; o,.er twelve hundred Songhees, Clallams and Cowichans were baptised after the first mass, 178 ERECTION OF FORT CA1\fOSUN which was celebrated in a chapel of pine branches and boat's canvas on Iarch 19th, 1843. Boiduc afterwards passed to Whidby Island, where, though conversions were numerous, attempts to reform the habits of the savages met with indiíferent suc- cess. By April 3rd, the missionary was back at Nisqually. It was on the first of June that the Beaver re- turned from her northern voyage. Taku and 1\1c- Loughlin had been dismantled, and with the rein- forcements thus obtained some fifty men were available for the work at Camosun. Within three months, in the prevailing pleasant weather, the stockade, one hundred and fifty yards square and eighteen feet in height, with blockhouse or bastion (thirty feet high and armed with nine-pounders, blunderbusses and cutlasses), at each corner, was finished. As finally completed, the stores, five in number, together with the post-office, smithy, carpenter shops, sleeping quarters for the men, officers' quarters, chapel, powder magazine, etc., were all within the stockade. For the sake of economy, the fort was built without nails or spikes, wooden pegs alone being used. The site selected was an open glade of oak trees, in the midst of the dense forest which ran down to the harbour and in- let. Flocks of Indians from Vancouver Island, the neighbouring archipelago, and the mainlan.d, atten- tively watched proceedings, but in the face of con.. 179 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS stant vigilance offered no opposition beyond åcts of petty theft. Later they too began to erect lodges along the harbour bank. The schooner Cadboro arri ved with further supplies from Fort Vancouver while the work was in progress; and by October, Douglas, regarding the establishment as capable of self-defence, set sail with the Beaver and Cadboro for the Columbia. Charles Ross, who had been in charge at Fort l\lcLoughlin, was left as senior officer, with Roderick Finlayson, transferred from Fprt SiInpson, second in command. Finlayson, whose duties included the supervision of construction operations, thus became the first builder of houses on Vancouver Island. A word apart should surely be spared in honour of those staunch and trim little vessels, the Cadboro and the Beaver, whose doings have already figured prominently in this narrative. For nearly forty years their nmnes appear in ahnost eyery record of the conlpany's seaward movements. Every island and canal of that dangerous labyrinth of waters which lies, a by-word to sailors, between Sitka and Fort Vancouver, was known to their- captains as a book. The schooner Cadboro, seventy-two tons burden, had been built at Rye in 1824. Before her destruction in 1862, every soul but one of the thirty servants of the company whom she brought on her maiden voyage from England had been buried. ",Vith her picked crew of thirty-five and her six guns, she did 180 RODERICK FINLAYSON the work of many men in the spread of civilization on the Pacific. The Beaver, which had the unique distinction of being the first steamship to navigate the great western ocean, was also built for the company in Great Britain. In August 1835, with her escort, the Columbia, she was pointed for Cape Horn, rounding which she buffeted her 'way north- ward for four months under sail, her machinery not being installed until she reached Fort 'T ancouver. Built of live oak and teak, with engines the best of their day, for forty-three years of hard and con- stant usage she plied the thousand bays and estuaries of the coast. She was still sound in every timber in spite of adventures innumerable with rock and reef when, on a dark night in 1888, she met her doom at the entrance to Burrard Inlet. In the spring of 1844, Ross, who was in charge at Fort Camosun, died, and Finlayson was appointed in his stead, the son of Ross being sent as second in command. Of Scottish birth, Finlayson had joined the company in 1837, and had seen hard service at Taku, Stikine and Simpson. Shrewd and kindly, he had commended himself to Douglas by his rigid devotion to duty. His narrative of the events that culminated in the founding of Fort Camosun is alnong the most valuable of the contemporary documents that have survived and are available re- lative to the history of the north-west coast during the first half of the nineteenth century. 181 SIR JAl\lES DOUGI AS Events proceeded smoothly at Camosun for some time after the accession of Finlayson. The first seri- ous test of the defences of the post arose through the restlessness of the neighbouring Indians. Directly opposite the fort, at a distance of four hundred yards, lay the village of the Songhees, under their chief Tsilalthach. Communication was constant between the points by means of boats. A wandering band of Cowichans under Tsoughilam were encmnped near by. The cattle of the fur- traders feeding in the open spaces about the fort, proved too great a temptation to the savages and a number were slaughtered and eaten. The company had not made the animals, they averred, nor did it own the fields that fattened them. A demand for payment provoked at first surprise, then anger, ending in a united but ineffectual attack upon the fort. Finlayson contented himself in reply with re- vealing the deadly powers of the company's nine- pounders by blowing to pieces a lodge froln which he had previously taken care to remove the oc- cupants. The effect was instantaneous; on the fol- lowing day full payment for the cattle was made. Shortly after, danger from fire having been caused in the vicinity of the fort, Finlayson compelled the Indians, not without angry parleyings, to remove to the other side of the harbour, thus originating the present Indian reserve at Victoria. In the spring of 1845, again, a party of Skagits from the main- land coming to trade at the fort were waylaid by 182 GROWTH OF SHIPPING the Songhees at Clover Point and their goods stolen. Whereupon Finlays0n again interfered and com- pelled the restitution of the goods. A demonstration of the powers of the great gun being a second time asked for, Finlayson directed that a canoe be placed in the harbour opposite the bastion. Pointing the canon at the object, he fired, the ball passing through and bounding to the opposite shore. The lesson had its effect. Next in importance to relations with the Indians in the early annals of the post was the birth and progress of its shipping. It was in the spring of 1845 that the first vessel consigned to Fort Victoria! direct from England arrived in the harbour. This was the bark Vancouver belonging to the company. \\Tith the Cowlitz and the Columbia she made yearly voyages thereafter from London, bringing outfits for a twelvemonth in advance. In the same year also occurred the visit of the frigate A merica with Captain the Hon. John Gordon, brother of the Earl of Aberdeen, then Prime l\finister of England, on board. Gordon's mission was to examine into and report on the value of Oregon, including Vancouver Island, the controversy concerning which with the United States was at the moment entering upon its final stage. A\.n incident related by Finlayson of his visitor's ill-success at sahnon fishing gave currency 1 The native title was retained until 184.'>, the change being first to " Albert" and later in the same year to " Victoria." 183 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS to the popular fiction that Oregon was lost to Britain because the sockeye would not rise to a fly. That Gordon's prejudices, however, and the unfavourable iInpression carried away by his party concerning the Columbia valley did not assist the home authorities in attaching a proper importance to the country, may be assumed. From the year 1845, also, the American whalers of the North Pacific touched occasionally at Victoria for supplies, until the Hawaiian Islands were found to afford a more con- venient port of call. About the same time, while the cry "fifty-four forty or fight," was stilJ reëcho- ing through the United States and excitement ran high in Great Britain as ,veIl, H.l\I.S. Constance, with five hundred men and officers, arrived at Esquimalt. Finlayson seized the opportunity for a military display, for the sake of the effect upon the Indians. The frigate Fisguard also visited Victoria in the same year and exercised her men on shore with a similar object in view. Two surveying ships, the Herald and Pandora came in the following season, and re-mapped the Straits of Juan de Fuca, the harbours of Esquimalt and Victoria, the Canal de Haro and other waters. These and other ships of war despatched for the protection of national rights ,vere supplied with beef and vegetables from the farms of the company.l\Ieanwhile the general trade, which during the preceding twenty years had con- verged upon the Columbia and Fort Vancouver, came gradually more and more to centre at Victoria. 184 FARl\lING OPERATIONS The farming operations of the company had engaged attention from the first. Even before the fort itself had been completed, a number of men were set to work at clearing the surrounding land for the raising of vegetables and cereals. \\7' ooden im- plements alone were available the :first year, an ex- ample of the thrift of Douglas, and the corn was trodden out by cattle in the barn. Some of the younger natives were employed at the work, prov- ing useful ox-drivers. They were paid, as usual, in goods. Horses and cattle were imported later from Nisqually, by the ever active Beaver and Cadboro, and a farm of several hundred acres was eventually opened in the immediate vicinity of 'Tictoria. In all, the company's farms on the island were three in number; the Fort Farm as it was called, on the level space 'where the city no\v stands; Beckley Farm, in the neighbourhood of James Bay; and the North Dairy Farm, which was situated in] and. The latter, as the name would imply, was devoted chiefly to dairying which would seem to have received special attention; three dairies, each with seventy milch cows, producing seventy kegs of butter each in a season, being in full ,vorking order within four years of the beginning of operations. Oats, barley, pease and potatoes ,vere also raised; and forty bushels of wheat to the acre was a not uncon1mon yield. The price obtairied for the latter from the Russians was four shillings and twopence per bushel, paid by bills on St. Petersburg. A large 185 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS wooden building, long to be seen at the com- pany's wharf at Victoria, was used as a granary, wherein the grain from Fort Vancouver, Puget Sound and Langley, as well as that grown on the island itself, was held for shipment to Sitka. Both Russian and British vessels were engaged in the traffic. The profitableness of the agricultural ven- ture on Vancouver Island was assured throughout by the abundant supply and cheap price of labour. The natural increase of the cattle, moreover, was such that it was soon found impossible to herd them, many escaping into the woods, where they were found years afterwards by hunters in the in- terior of the island. In 1848, the brigades from the northern interior, instead of descending to the Columbia by way of I{amloops and Okanagan as usual, followed the more direct route of the Fraser 'Talley to l..ang- ley. A year before the settlement of the Ore- gon boundary, Anderson, who was then in charge at Alexandria, had foreseen the necessity of the change and had carefully explored the country between Kamloa- cific to the Hudson's Bay lands beyond the moun- tains, was in itself a work which might well infuse self-confidence even into a struggling colony. By the end of 1865 N e\v Westminster was connected with the whole telegraphic system of the United States, 298 TERl\IS OF THE UNION Canada and Newfoundland, and with Cariboo. The constitution of 1863 had been successfully placed in operation, the popular candidates being elected at public meetings called by the magistrates. But the real opposition to union lay in the rivalry of Victoria and New "r estminster for the honour of being chosen as the capital, and the fear which the latter had of being supplanted by the older, wealthier and more influential community. Being almost the sole municipality which found a voice, New 'iV estmin- ster was able for some time to combat successfully all agitation for union. The upper country cared little whether the colonies were one or separate. But on the lower Fraser it came at last to be felt that the uncertainty was interfering seriously with progress. In 1866, a petition in favour of union was signed by four hundred and forty-five persons, and there was probably a much wider feeling had it been able to make itself heard. In the end the British govern- Inent decided the question, and the authority of the executive government and council of British Columbia was extended over Vancouver Island, the number of members of the council being increased to twenty-three. The customs regulations of the mainland colony were likewise extended to the island. Other ordinances remained for a time as be- fore. The original authority of the governor to make regulations for peace, order and good government was not restricted. The Act bore date of August 299 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS 6th, 1866. A short time after, the attorney-general of Vancouver Island introduced a bill for assimilat- ing its laws with those of British Columbia. There then remained only the question of the seat of government-a rock which the Act of union had discreetly avoided. Amid the violent altercations of partisans, the choice fell on Victoria, and though the bitterness of the defeat rankled long on the mainland no effort subsequently availed to secure a reversion of the decision. The foregoing outline of the process by which British Columbia, as we know it to-day, attained its united form, has gone somewhat beyond the time when the man who had brought order out of the chaos and had been the chief agent in shaping the progress of the colony in the course it has since pursued, laid down the direction of its affairs. With the setting in active motion of the forces which re- sulted in union, Sir James Douglas passed from the scene. It is a moment of solemnity, for communi- ties as for individuals, when the past is cast off for- ever. How large a part was Douglas of all that had happened since the birth of the two colonies has been sufficiently shown. But there was an added reason why his retirement at this time was of no ordinary significance, little though the change was marked by outward or immediate results. The spirit of that old time force, the Hudson's Bay Company, which had been the first to conquer the 300 RETIREl\IENT OF DOUGLAS tremendous barriers by which nature has divided the Pacific slope from the rest of the continent, which had subdued the intractable native, and had opened the first pathway for civilization to the western ocean, lived and breathed in Sir James Douglas. It died only with his passing. The change was for better things, as the future was soon to show, but that this was possible is a tribute to the wisdom with which the foundations had been laid. It is left to treat of the remaining years of Douglas and to estimate the value of his work and personality in the founding of British Col- umbia. In connection with that task it will be well to note in very brief review the leading features of the later history of the colony, especially those that have their visible root in the era of colonial administration, in order the better to ap- preciate the nature of that early planting from which the present fruitful harvest has sprung. 801 CHAPTER IX CONFEDERATION A FTER toil,-rest. I ong before the period of his commissions had expired, Douglas had Inade up his mind: his public connection with the colonies must cease. Noone was more conscious than he that his day of greatest usefulness was past, and that his present office, if continued, would be one only of increasing difficulties. For a place in the new régime he had no inclination. Accustomed as he had been to untrammelled rule, he could play no part in the turmoil of reconstruction and divided power which was now approaching, and which was still to last for several years before the people of British Columbia achieved entire control of their administration. The retirement of Sir .J ames Douglas from the governorship of the two colonies was marked by all those forms and ceremonies with which the man of public affairs is wont to pass from the scene of his activity, and which may mean much or little. There had undoubtedly arisen a deep-rooted opposition to the principle of irresponsible government in British Columbia and to Douglas as the representative of that principle. Yet in the mass of customary lauda- tion with which his days of office closed, the note of gratitude for the unequalled experience which he 303 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS had brought to the service of the country and for the value of the work he had done was persistently present, even in the minds of those who realized most clearly the necessity for change. There were banquets and processions, presentations of me- morials and tributes of the press. The formula was repeated in the respective capitals of the colonies. At Victoria, two hundred of the leading citizens of Vancouver Island took their seats at a dinner in his honour; in New "r estminster, where settle- ment was less compact, seventy-five. Both colonies presented addresses signed by hundreds of their inhabitants to the Duke of Newcastle, colonial secretary, in which admiration of the governor was warmly expressed. The legislature of Vancou- ver Island declared its belief that the signal pros- perity which the colony had enjoyed was "mainly ascribable to the policy which His Excellency in- augurated," the governor characteristically reply- ing with an exhortation to harmony between the executive and the legislature. So, likewise, the council of V ancouver Island placed on record its high estimation of the policy of Douglas "in origi- nating and administering the government" of the colony, of his appreciation of his duties and re- sponsibilities, and of the moral qualities which had adorned his actions and endeared him to the people of the island. In Victoria, the universal respect in which the governor was held had kindled into an affection which was plainly manifest in the demon- 804 ADDRESSES OF FAREWELL strations with which his departure was accompan- ied. Twenty-two years from the time that the natives of Camosun first saw the harbour ruffled by the Beaver, Douglas passed through the streets of the city he had founded on his last official progress, the people thronging the way and crowd- ing to grasp his hand as the guns of the fort pealed their farewell salute. On the mainland, where he was at one time regarded as the natural enemy of the colony, it is of significance to quote the follow- ing from an address which was presented at New 'Vestminster and which bore the names of over nine hundred of the inhabitants: "During the period His Excellency has been in office, he has assiduously devoted his remarkable talents to the good of the country; ever unmindful of self, he has been accessible to all, and we firmly believe that no man could have had a higher appre- ciation of the sacred trust vested in him, and none could have more faithfully and nobly discharged it than he has. "The great road system which Go' ernor Douglas has introduced into the colony is an imperishable monument of his judgment and foresight. It has al- ready rendered his name dear to every miner, and future colonists will wonder how so much could have been accomplished with such small means. The col- ony already feels the benefit resulting from his un- wavering policy in this respect, and year by year will the wisdom of that policy become more manifest. 305 SIR JA IES DOUGLAS "During his term of office t.he laws have ever been rigidly, faithfully and impartially adminis- tered; the poorest man has always felt that in a just cause he would not have to seek redress in vain, and the country has in consequence enjoyed a remarkable exemption from crime and disturb- " ance. I t was in reply to this that Douglas uttered the words that sum up, better than any other of his own that have survived, the total of his en- deavour as governor: "This is surely the voice and heart of British Columbia. Here are no spe- cious phrases, no hollow or venal compliments. This speaks out broadly, and honestly, and manfully. It assures me that my adn1Ïnistration has been useful; that I have done 111Y duty faithfully; that I have used the pO'wer of my sovereign for good, and not for evil; that I have wronged no man, oppressed no man; but that I have, with upright rule, meted out equal-handed justice to all." AInong the lnost persistent opponents of the administration of Douglas was Àmor de Cosmos, founder and editor of the Victoria Colonist. Few names in western history are more widely known. Beneath the eccentricity ,vhich was his most marked outward characteristic, and of which the changing of his nalne in that wild and free society was a conspicuous example, lay a genuine public spirit and a dogged resolution in resisting what he deemed to be abuses. Born in Nova Scotia, where the fight 306 Al\IOR DE COSl\10S for responsible government was early fought and won, and by nature cOlnbative to a degree, he found in the fonn of administration existing in British Columbia, a condition which kindled ,vithin him all that fierceness of political invective of which he was the accomplished master. Here was not only government without a legislature and without a ministry, but government by a man as autocratic by instinct and training as by the ordin- ance from which his power was derived. To de Cos- mos, not free from opportunism and seeking now the pathway to his own future, Douglas waS the mere embodiment of the Hudson's Bay Company's influence carried forward into an era in which it had no place, and in which it could \vork only for evil. From the embittered warfare waged daily in the columns of the Colonist, an organized party took form in opposition to every act of the governor, an opposition which was soon extended to the mainland, and which was silenced only with the inauguration of popular government in 1871. Among the friends of the- retiring governor, de Cosmos, therefore, could not be reckoned. His tribute, accordingly, to the personal worth of Douglas was of no ordinary value when in the Colonist of October 13th, 1863, he wrote as follows:- " We have conceived it our duty, upon some occasions, to differ from the policy pursued by !vIr. Douglas, as governor of this colony, and we 307 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS ha ve, from time to time had occasion, as pu blic journalists, to oppose that policy: we trust, how- ever, that such opposition has at no time been factious-personal to the governor himself it has never been. If we have opposed the measures of government, we have never, in our criticism of the public acts of the executive head of that government, failed in our esteem for the sterling honesty of purpose which has guided those acts, nor for the manly and noble qualities and virtues which adorn the man. The intimate relations which have so long existed between Sir James Douglas and the people of Victoria will shortly undergo a change, and we are quite sure that we echo the sentiments of the public of Victoria in saying that His Excellency will carry into private life the honest esteem and hearty good wishes of all Van- couver. His services to his country as governor of these colonies will not be forgotten for many years to come." I t may be of interest to mention here that from 1863 until 1866 the desire for the annexation of the colonies outrode all other sentiments in Vancouver Island, and that de Cosmos himself was among the most persistent advocates of unconditional union, notwithstanding that the change involved for the time the acceptance of administration by the Crown. The ceremonies of leaving office ended, Douglas was free to carry out the dream of many years-a 808 VISIT TO EUROPE voyage to Europe. There is little of public interest in the journey; but a diary in which he kept a daily record of his movements and impressions throws a singularly valuable light upon his tastes and sym- pathies, the variety of his information, and many of his views on public affairs. Conspicuous through- out are his affection for his family, the fervour of his religious convictions, the characteristic love of a Scotchman for his native country, and the wide range of subjects in which he had an interest. Leav- ing Esquimalt in l\fay, he sailed by way of Panama for Southampton, the voyage as he covered it ex- ceeding ninety-six hundred miles. The summer and early autumn were spent in England and Scotland, where he visited one of his daughters in the vicinity of Inverness, and the rest of the year in France, Switzerland, Germany and the Netherlands. The south of France, Spain and Italy were visited in the opening months of the following year. In Iarch he was in Rome, where the first attack of an illness which was to give him much anxiety was recorded. His active life in the open and his severely regular habits had hitherto made dis- ease unknown to him; the derangement of the heart to which he finally fell a victim was con- stitutional or perhaps induced by the strenuous early life of the fur traders, many of whom though vigorous in the extreme failed to reach old age. But the mind of Douglas, even in Italy, was never far away from the land to which he had given his 309 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS life. At Villetri, near Rome, on the 6th of l\larch, he sees "rocky land covered ,vith brush, places which recall the narro\v little vales between the ridges of ,V ork's farm near 'Tictoria "; and again, "a cloudy sky, a short sprinkling of rain, the low springing grass, the daJnp earth and the brave little daisy are not unlike early l\Iarch scenes in 'Tic- toria." From Italy he passed again through Ger- many to Paris where the ne,vs of the death of a daughter plunged him in deep affliction. From France he returned to I.Aondon and in a few months more had arrived at 'V'lctoria, no longer to bear an active part in public affairs. The rest of the life of Douglas was unevent- ful. In the management of his private fortune, in constant reading, and in the out-door exercises that had been his passion during the busiest part of his career, the days 'went by. He died on August 1st, 1877. The end came suddenly, though not without premonition, from heart failure. The funeral was a notable event in the history of the province. Especially striking were the tributes of the Indians to ,vhom he ,vas indeed the friend they held him. His ,vife was laid by his side in 1891. Before the day of his passing, Douglas had lived long enough to witness not a little of the growth which sprang directly from his sowing, and at least the promise of that greater fruitage which the future 310 CONFEDERATION was to yield. It will be well, before attempting any final estimate of the man and his work, to turn for a moment to the more important of the develop- ments that followed his retirement from public life and to the general course of progress since in British Columbia. On December 17th, 1867, the legislature of British Colurnbia assembled for the first time at Victoria. The influence of Seymour, who had suc- ceeded to the governorship of the united colonies, had hitherto retained for New Westminster this coveted distinction. Having yielded in one matter, the governor and the opinion which he represented saw fit to bow to the majority in another and more important. No sooner had the confederation of the eastern colonies become an accomplished fact, than the admission of British Columbia to the Dominion of Canada was keenly debated. The governor op- posed it. A small party which favoured annexation 'with the United States opposed it. The body of office-holders opposed it vigorously. At the first, the activity of these succeeded in shelving the question. Nevertheless, as early as l\Iarch, 1868, a resolution passed the council in favour of the union, provided fair and equitable terms could be obtain- ed. Public meetings at Victoria, Barkerville and other points, soon after gave solid endorsation to the project. The sympathy of the Dominion itself was obtained, with special reference to the taking over of the intervening territory. A confederation 311 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS league was formed and a convention held under its auspices at Yale. Here, perhaps for the first time, the movement found its full voice, the existing form of government being denounced as a despot- ism for which the only remedy was asserted to be the ilnmediate admission of British Columbia into the Dominion and the establishment of responsible institutions. But the most potent of all the arguments for union was the promise which it held out of pro- moting overland communication with Canada. This it was that finally silenced the opposition of Sey- mour. In any event, the death of the governor in 1869 led to the appointment of an avowed advo- cate of confederation, Anthony l\Iusgrave, pre- viously governor of Newfoundland, and with an experience of administration gained in the West Indies. A tour of the colony which the new officer immediately undertook confirmed the view that the overwhelming sentiment of the popu- lation was in favour of confederation. On the back of this came formal instructions froD1 Eng- land that the governor should take such steps as he properly and constitutionally could, either in conjunction with the governor-general of Canada or otherwise, to promote the favourable considera- tion of the question. When the council, which had been reconstituted in 1869, met for the session of 1870, l\lusgrave had a series of resolutions pre- pared for its consideration. In a memorable debate 812 TERl\IS OF THE UNION which began on March 9th, 1870, and lasted until the twenty-fifth, the terms on which British Colum- bia should become a part of the Dominion were definitely detern1Ïned. On July 7th, the news was received from Ottawa that the articles had been agreed upon, the construction of' the transcon- tinental railway guaranteed, and the delegates who had been sent to present the claims of the province already on their way home. The provisions upon which British Columbia en- tered confederation ensured in the first place that the Dominion should assume all debts and liabili- . ties of the colony, allowance being made for the small amount of these compared with the original indebtedness of the other provinces. For the sup- port of the provincial government an annual sub- sidy of thirty-five thousand dollars, with an ad- ditional grant of eighty cents per head on an esti- mated population of sixty thousand was promised, the latter allowance to be increased pro rata until the population reached four hundred thousand. Can- ada was to defray all charges in respect to the sal- aries of the lieutenant-governor and of the judges of the Superior and County or District Courts-like- wise of the department of customs, the postal and telegraph services, the fisheries, the militia, the geo- logical survey, the penitentiary, the marine depart- ment, the care of the Indians and other matters ap- pertaining to the general government. A fortnight- ly steam mail service between Victoria and San 818 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS Francisco, and a weekly service with Olympia, were to be maintained by the Dominion. But the portion of the agreement which was of nlost absorbing interest to British Columbia, was that which set forth in detail the terms on which the railway across the continent, now the dream of every section of the community, should be built, and which provided in brief that it should unite the seaboard of British Columbia with the railway system of Canada and that its construction should be begun within two years of the date of union, the province conveying the necessary public lands along the line in trust to the Dominion govern- ment. The Dominion also guaranteed the interest for ten years on a maximum sum of !:100,OOO to be expended on the construction of a graving dock at Esquimalt. The new province was given three seats in the senate and six in the House of Com- mons. Finally, it was agreed that the constitution of the executive authority and of the legislature of British Columbia should continue until altered under the British North America Act, it being understood that the Dominion government would consent to the introduction of responsible govern- ment when desired by the people of British Co- lumbia, and that it was the intention of the British Columbia governnlent to mnend the existing con- stitution of the legislature by providing that a majority of its members should be elective. The union was to take place on a date to be fixed by 314 REPRESENTATIVE INSTrrUTIONS Her l\Iajesty on addresses from the legislature of British Columbia and of the parliament of Canada, the former being granted leave to specify in its address the electoral districts for which the first election of members to serve in the House of Commons should take place. The document containing the terms of union reached Victoria on July 18th, 1870. l\Ieantime a representative had been despatched to England to secure the needed change in the constitution of the colony and the guarantee of the imperial govern- ment for the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway. For the election of the new council, which for the first time in the history of the united colonies was preponderatingly representa- tive in character, the colony was divided into eight electoral districts, consisting of Victoria City, Vic- toria district, N anaimo, New Westminster, Hope, Yale and Lytton, Lillooet and Clinton, and Cariboo and l{ootenay. Of these, 'Tictoria city returned two members. The elections were held in November, and the council met in January, 1871. The chief work of the session was, of course, the ratification of the terms of union previously agreed upon. This done, an Act was passed abolishing the council and establishing a legislative assembly in its stead, the latter to be elected once in every four years and to consist of twenty-four members chosen by twelve electoral districts. Thus it was effected that respon- sible government should come into operation at the 815 SIR JAl\IES DOUGl AS first session of the legislature subsequent to the union with Canada. A Qualification and Franchise Act was passed and the council prorogued on l\:Iarch 28th. On the same date, the resolutions for the admission of the colony were moved in the Canadian House of Commons, and, after a four days' discussion, were adopted. On July 1st, 1871, the first Dominion Day was celebrated in British Columbia. On the whole, the new province brought to the Dominion a dower of no ordinary richness in the way of accomplished development and of promising outlook for the future. From the lavish expen- ditures of the early years a system of retrenchment and economy had been evolved, while the perman- ent results of these expenditures remained. Roads had been opened. Agriculture had been planted; it was estimated that not less than one hundred and twenty-five thousand acres, valued at from two dollars and a half to five dollars per acre, were avail- able for cultivation. rfhe mining industry of the province was already famous throughout the world, while it was known that not a tithe of its richness had been revealed. Even manufactures were as- suming importance. Trade had reached a volume of over $3,400,000 a year. The labour market was in a promising condition, unskilled workmen being in good demand at wages of two dollars and a half per day and upward. The Indian question had been placed on a satisfactory basis. The Hon. J. W. 316 THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY Trutch, distinguished for many years past in the councils of the colony, became the first lieutenant- governor, under auspices that promised to the mind of every inhabitant the beginning of a golden era for the province. But the union could not be real to British Col- umbia until the railway-the tie on which so much depended-was at least in visible process of realiza- tion. In this, a grievous disappointment awaited the province. For a decade and a half the delay in the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway was the leading topic in political, industrial an.d com- mercial circles throughout British Columbia. A re- ference to this phase in the development of the province is necessary to complete the record of confederation. As early as 1858, when the discovery of the gold- fields of the Fraser made the value of the country known, the ambition of Great Britain to see planted a chain of colonies which should cross the contin- ent, bound by a single chain of railways, from Nova Scotia to the Pacific, was formally acknowledged. For ten years more, however, the enormous difficul- ties, both of finance and of engineering, prevented serious consideration of the project, and it was not until the explorations of Viscount Milton in the Rocky .l'flountains and the unceasing agitation of Mr. Alfred Waddington had awakened public in- terest, that the undertaking may be said to have 317 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS been brought within the realm even of the re- motely practicable. In September, 1869, the Can- ada Gazette contained a notice that application would be made at the ensuing session of parliament for a charter to build a railway from the Canadian system to the foot of the Rockies; but this was later acknowledged to have been only a part of the campaign for the creation of an intelligent public opinion on the subject. By 1870, however, such measures were no longer necessary, the desir- ability of the railway being no longer questioned, and the proposition for its construction having been accepted, in the way that has been described, as an integral part of the bargain between British Columbia and the Dominion. The line, it had already come to be recognized, 'was almost as necessary to the one as to the other; for if British Columbia was thought to profit more immediately by its construction, and in the discussions on the subject bore always the aggressive part, an outlet to the unoccupied territory of the "Test was no less an urgent need to Canada if she was to prevent her surplus population from continually overflowing into the United States, and if in process of time she was to be assured of an expanding market for her produce. But the signing of the articles of union did not by any means allay the almost universal feeling of distrust, not to say of alarm, with which the project had been regarded from the first in Canada. To the 318 DELAY IN CONSTRUCTION majority it seemed indeed that the Dominion had essayed a task that was impossible. The feeling was reflected in parliament where, in spite of the strength of the government of the day, the con- federation measure passed with difficulty and only on the promise that the undertaking would be left to private enterprise without involving further additions to the taxation of the' country. This in itself was a blow to the expectations of the people of British Columbia; for it was clear that the enormous expenses of construction and the scanty earnings that could be counted upon for many years in the service of so small and scattered a population would prove but an indifferent attrac- tion to capital. As a matter of fact, the limit specified at confederation for the beginning of the work, July 1st, 1873, expired before even the sur- veys had been more than started. The tangled skein of the dispute which forthwith arose between the province and the Dominion, it is unnecessary here to unravel. Throughout its con- tinuance no real desire was apparent on the part of British Columbia, if we pierce below the surface, to exact the full legal penalty of a compact proved by time and circumstances to be unjust. She had been led, however, to regard the railway as the chief con- dition of the union, and the railway she was deter- mined should be built. If her attitude was local and colonial rather than federal and Canadian, it must be remembered that her assimilation with 819 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS the Dominion was the very point at issue. The charge of breach of faith preferred by the province was the subject of prolonged negotiations. After a lengthy war by correspondence, l\Ir. J. D. Edgar, afterwards Sir Jmnes Edgar, was despatched in the spring of 1874 as a special agent of the Dominion to Victoria. The result was but to bring the differ- ences to a head, in the form of an appeal by the province to the British government. The construc- tion of two ri val lines, the Northern and the Union Pacific, in the United States, added fuel to the discontent. The award which followed, known as the Carnarvon terms, was distinctly favourable to British Columbia, in so far that it ensured the building of the road, though it recognized that the letter of the original agreement could not pos- sibly be carried out. The award required that two million dollars should be spent each year on the construction of the road within the province from the time the surveys were completed, the latter to be pushed at once with all possible vigour; that the railway should be completed and opened for traffic between Lake Superior and the Pacific sea- board on or before December 31st, 1890; and that a telegraph line and certain wagon roads should be constructed forthwith. At the outset, it should be stated, an Act had passed the Dominion parliament granting a subsidy of thirty million dollars together with fifty million acres of land for the construction of a railway 320 THE CARNARVON TERl\IS from Lake Nipissing to the Pacific, and a charter had been awarded to a company organized under the leadership of Sir Hugh Allan. The episode familiarly known as the Pacific scandal had fol- lowed, and the company, finding it impossible to raise the needed capital, went out of existence. l\Iackenzie, on succeeding to the chaos which fol- lowed the resignation of Sir John l\lacdol1ald's ministry, having failed in the attempt to treat directly with the provincial authorities and having sought in vain to purchase calm by the passage of a ne,v Pacific Railway Bill in 1874, found even in the terms of the Carnarvon settlement an unex- pected difficulty. In addition to the provisions referred to, the award required the construction by the DOlninion with aU possible despatch of a line from Esq uimalt to N anaimo, the building of this road having been offered by the previous govern- ment to the province by way of offset for the delay which had occurred in the carrying out of the terms of the union. A bill which incor- porated this feature of the award was passed by the House of Commons, but was rejected by the senate on the ground that the ternlS of union did not call for any extension of the line to Van- couver Island, and that, if the extension were considered in the light of compensation, it was on altogether too extra vagant a scale. The entire question was thus thrown open anew to discus- sion, and the negotiations which ensued served 821 SIR JAl\1ES DOUGLAS but to widen the breach between the govern- ments. From the standpoint of British Columbia, the attitude of the Dominion was now in open disre- gard of the Carnarvon terms, as it had previously been at variance with the articles of union. By 1876, neither the mainland nor the island road had been begun, nor had the agreement relating to the provincial section of the telegraph been carried out, nor had a commencement been made of the wagon road intended to facilitate the work of con- struction proper. 'Videspread depression in trade, it was claimed, had followed these delays, and the development of the country had been greatly re- tarded. On the other hand, the l\lackenzie govern- ment now protested vigorously against the selec- tion, agreed to by its prédecessor, of Esquimalt as the terminus, a choice involving an expenditure of seven nlillions and a half on Vancouver Island, with a bridge across the narrows estÌ1nated to cost twen ty millions more. I t was willing to offer seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars, or about seventy-five dollars per capita of the white popu- lation of the province, as indemnity for the de- lay; but this had been refused. Moreover, during the first four years of union, the Dominion had expended in British Columbia twelve hundred thousand dollars more than had been derived from the province in revenue, though undoubtedly a large portion of this was incidental merely to 322 AN ARRANGEMENT REACHED the extension of confederation over the new ter- ritory. While the controversy continued thus, with secession openly in prospect, Lord Dufferin, the governor-general of Canada, paid a visit to the new province, which, while failing of its avowed object of reconciling the discordant elements, suc- ceeded through his tact and adroitness in allay- ing much of the irritation with which the sub- ject had by this time corne to be associated and which in itself formed no small obstacle to an agreement. Nevertheless, for two years longer, though the surveys were actively prosecuted, not only was nothing done on the actual construction of the line, but tenders were not even invited. In September, 1878, accordingly, a formal threat of separation was made by the British Columbia legislature. Annexation with the United States again became a subject of discussion in certain quarters; and there was general discontent and de- moralization. On the change of lninistry at Ottawa, however, more conciliatory counsels were adopted; surveys were rapidly conlpleted; Port l\foody on Burrard Inlet was finally selected as the terminus; and by 1880 all was in readiness for the fulfilment of the railway clauses of the union. This had its due effect in British Columbia. In 1881, the con- veyance of twenty miles on either side of the line to the Dominion was authorized, and with the passing, on March 25th, of an Act providing 323 SIR JAMES DOUGI.lAS that the Supreme Court of Canada and the Ex- chequer Court or the Supreme Court of Canada alone (according to the provisions of the Act of Parliament of Canada known as the Supreme and Exchequer Court Act) should have j urisdic- tion in controversies between the Dominion and the province, the actual union of the province and the Dominion may be said to have been consum- mated. The province continued to press in London for perlnission to collect its own tariff of customs and excise until through communication should be established with the eastern provinces; but the plea fell now on deaf ears and after a brief agitation was allowed to die. From this time forward the railway made rapid progress. It had been decided, in 1878, that the route should follow the valleys of the Fraser and the Thompson. By 1880, when some sixteen and a half millions had been expended on surveys and con- struction as a whole, Sir .John l\lacdonald an- nounced the formation of a syndicate by whom the work would be completed. The Dominion, under the contract, agreed to build the portion of the road between Yale and Kamloops by the end of June, 1885, and that between Port l\loody and Yale by June 1st, 1891. All was finally laid at rest between the governments by the Settlement Act of 1884. Of the various terms of the agreement and of the manner in which its provisions were carried 324 DIFFICULTIES OF CONSTRUCTION out in the sections east of the Rocky Mountains, no further mention is necessary here. Of the work within the boundaries of British Columbia, how- ever, the completion of which may be said to have marked an epoch in railway construction as ,yell as in the history of the province, the more extraordin- ary features may be noted. Between Kaluloops Lake and BUITard Inlet, where the road descends the canyons of the Thompson and Fraser, the contracts were undertaken at a cost approximat- ing twelve million dollars, apart from rails and fastenings. Ground was broken early in 1880. On portions of the road it is probable that the difficul- ties were greater than had ever before been encoun- tered in railway building, except perhaps in Swit- zerland and Peru. The cost per mile over a con- siderable section averaged eighty thousand dollars; in certain parts as much as two hundred thousand dollars per mile was expended. In nineteen n1Ïles near Yale, thirteen tunnels occur. Elsewhere in the Fraser canyons the roadway was literally hewn from the rock, men being lowered hundreds of feet down the face of the precipice to blast a foothold. At times over seven thousand labourers were em- ployed, though the average was nearer four thous- and. The enormous difficulties of forwarding sup- plies and material were overcome with no less marvellous skill. Even the rapids of the Fraser were breasted by a steamer built for the purpose. In the section of the railway which traverses the 325 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS Rocky l\lountains, scarcely less astounding feats of engineering were required. By 1884, the track had been laid from "Tinnipeg to the summit of the Rockies, though there was still a gap of two hundred miles between that point and Kamloops. But the end was soon to crown the work. On Nov- ember 7th, 1885, five years before the date required by the Carnarvon ternls, the final rail was laid. The last spike was driven by l\Ir. Donald A. Smith, now Lord Strathcona and l\Iount Royal, a leading director of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, and, by a fitting coincidence, the chief representa- tive of the great fur-trading enterprise whose men had been the first to enter the Pacific slope. It was a grave moment in the history of Canada and the British Empire. Henceforward east 'was west and west was east in British North America, as nearly as the hand of man could accomplish it. The gate- way to the Orient had been opened at last by land. How, on commercial grounds alone-though these were not its basis-the undertaking begun anlid so many doubts and fears has justified the vision of its founders, is among the trite lessons of our his- tory. In the creation of the prosperous city of Van- COllver, to-day one of the leading centres of industry in Canada, entrepôt of a trade that reaches to the ends of the earth, ,vith clearings of over two hun- dred million dollars, employing a tonnage of nearly thirteen millions, and already numbering over sev- enty thousand inhabitants, where a quarter of a 326 RAILWAY DEVELOPl\IENT century ago was virgin forest, may be seen a typical instance of what that great enterprise has accom- plished for the province and for Canada. I t will be of interest to notice here the further steps that have been taken to open up the prov- ince by means of railways. That Port l\loody was selected by the Dominion as the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway largely because it rendered unnecessary the construction of the Es- qui malt and N anaimo line as a condition of the union ,vith British Columbia, there can be no doubt. 'fhe effect ,vas long felt by Victoria and Vancouver Island. In 1883, however, a contract ,vas entered into with another agency for the con- struction of the line in question, the ,york to be begun at once and to be finished by 1887. Thus, ,vith only a slight delay, the island was proyided with a railway throughout its most thickly peopled districts, and the line by a recent purchase forms part of the system of the Canadian Pacific. Even before the projection of this undertaking, the New Westminster and Port l\loody, the Fraser River, and the Columbia and Kootenay Railway Com- panies, had been incorporated. The last, which provided entrance to the Kootenay district from the north, became in time a part of the important system built westward by the Canadian Pacific Company from the prairie section through the Crow's Nest Pass, opening up a country whose mar- vellous wealth in coal and mineral is now known 327 SIR JA IES DOUGLAS throughout the world. l\feanwhile the Great N orth- ern Railway has crossed the border from the state of Washington, connecting Vancouver with the rail- ways of the United States and promising soon to establish another and much needed outlet from the Kootenays westward to the coast. But these re- sults, substantial as they are, form but an earnest of the progress which the immediate future holds, when, to mention only the greatest of several lines that are projected, a second and even a third road from Canada, piercing the mountains of Cari- boo and Cassiar, shall cross the province three hundred miles to the northward of the Canadian Pacific Railway and awaken those primeval soli- tudes to settled industry. As an interesting note to the foregoing, it may be stated that the system of roads and trails begun by Douglas, and built and maintained by the government, amounted in ] 900 to a total of over ten thousand miles. The completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway marks from many points of view the beginning of a new era in the development of British Columbia- so far-reaching was its effect in affording' transport for the growing industries of the province and in bringing the country into touch 'with the outside world. From a population of 36,241 in the year of confederation, grown to 49,459 in the decade fol- lowing, the province had become a comlnunity of 178,657 souls in 1900, the date of the last Dominion 328 AGRICULTURE census, while the revenue has reached an estimated total of $3,286,476 for the fiscal year of 1908, and the import and export trade a total of approxi- mately $40,000,000. A very brief indication of the economic and industrial progress reflected in these returns, and appropriate in the case of a cOlnmu.nity whose history from the outset is prim- arily a study in industrial development, is all that may be attempted in this restricted space. Agriculture, until recent years, cannot be said to have attained importance as an industry in British Columbia, though progress relatively has been very rapid. In the decade of 1890-1900, the agricultural area of the province increased, according to the Dominion census, from 115,184 to 171,447 acres, the latter representing a total value in agricultural property of $33,491,978. This is less than one per cent. of the entire area of the province, and the returns do not enter into comparison with those of Ontario and the north-west provinces. The reason is to be sought in the heavily timbered nature of the valleys, which, notwithstanding their fertility, require capital for development in all but a few sections, whereas the neighbouring prairies of the north-west provinces have offered no resistance of this kind, and have naturally been occupied more rapidly. Large areas of British Columbia will be available for agriculture only on the introduction of irrigation. Hard wheat, moreover, is not grown in the portions of the province as yet devoted to 829 SIR JA iES DOUGLAS agriculture. The advantages of the British Columbia clÜnate, however, have given a special impetus to fruit growing, and the orchards of Okanagan are already known in the leading markets of the world, not only for the quality of the fruit but for the enterprise and skill of the grower. In 1901, there were 7,430 acres in orchards, with some 650,000 trees; in 1906 there were 40,000 acres with 2,700,- 000 trees. Dairying and cattle raising also are, by every indication, on the eve of an important future, the present year exceeding any previous record in the quantity and quality of the output. In 1900 there were seven cheese and butter factories in operation; in 1906 there were nineteen. There are ranches in British Columbia carrying ten and fifteen thousand cattle, but the tendency is to break up these larger holdings into farms. I egislation has kept pace with these developments, the laws for the promotion of agricultural societies, Farmers' Institutes, Co-operative Associations, Dairying As- sociations, Boards of Horticulture, and various lands, drainage, animals and cattle Acts, being among the most advanced in the Dominion. The fisheries of British Columbia, once the al- most sole support of the native population and no mean source of revenue to the Hudson's Bay Company, are now a household word throughout the world. Every species of salmon known to the Pacific abound in its waters-the sockeye, the spring, the cohoe, the humpback and the dog- 330 THE FISHERIES salmon. The taking and preserving of these fish has grown into the most distinctive, if not the greatest, industry of the province. The mysterious four years' absence of the sockeyes in the depths of the Pacific, the teeming millions in which they return to spawn and to die in the streams that gave them birth, and the unique methods of capture and manufacture, are familiar features. In 1897 and 1901, the two most productive years on record, no less than 1,026,545 and 1,247,212 cases of salmon ,vere put up in British Columbia. From 4,000 to 20,000 men are employed in the industry, according to the season. Unfortunately, the pro- vince is unable to reap the whole of the magni- ficent harvest which her rivers yield. On their return from the sea, the sockeyes pass for many miles along the shores and islands of the United States, where they are taken without let or hind- rance by the canners of Puget Sound, who an- nually secure a larger pack than British Colum- bia herself and render any attempt at preservation or regulation extremely difficult. But the salmon is not the only food fish of British Columbia. Halibut and herring yield an increa!:,ing return, the latter under methods which promise a prosperous future. 'Vhale fishing, which in earJy days found the Sand- wich Islands the most convenient centre, has as- sumed great importance within the past two years off 'Vancouver Island. For many years, also, Vic- toria has been the headquarters of the sealing fleet 331 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS of Canada in the Northern Pacific, which yields a considerable, though steadily decreasing, return. From the pigulY efforts of the Hudson's Bay Company in the sawing and marketing of IUlnber, dependent almost wholly upon the demands of the Russian and Northern Pacific trade, has sprung up an industry that produces hundreds of millions of feet annually and extends to Europe, Asia, and South Alnerica, as well as meeting the enormously increased demand arising from the set- tlement of the Canadian prairies. Possessing per- haps the greatest compact area of merchantable timber on the North American continent, the province, in the face of the general depletion, holds her forest wealth as second only to her mines . among her great natural resources, if the extra- ordinary trade of 1906 and 1907 has not advanced it to the premier place. A part from its abundance, the magnificence of the growth attained by the Douglas fir and the giant cedars of Vancouver Island give an added value to the product, trees of eight, ten and eleven feet diameter and three hund- red feet in height, being not infrequently found. Fires have occasioned an enormous and deplorable waste, especially in the interior of the province beyond the humid influence of the ocean; but in this as in other respects the policy of the gov- ernment has been enlightened, and under an im- proved system of protection losses were never so small as at present. What the general progress of 332 LUl\IBERING AND l\IINING the industry has been, may be judged from the fact that in 1888, the first year for which official statis- tics are available, the number of mills in operation was twenty-five, and the total cut 31,868,884 feet; whereas in 1902 the number of mills had increased to one hundred and five, and the annual cut to 281,945,866 feet, figures which have been nearly doubled since the rapid settlelnent of l\fanitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta has created a new and, for many years to come, a heavy market for the products of the British Columbia forests. Up to confederation it was estimated that the entire ut of the colony had not exceeded two hundred and fifty million feet. l\Ieanwhile, the manufacture of shingles has frequently reached half a billion yearly, and the fleet required to transport the gro,ving output to the foreign market has been lnultiplied by several times. But the leading asset of British Columbia has, from the mOlnent of her birth in 1858, been looked for in her wealth in mineral. The beginning of the mining industry has been already described. It may be said that in so far as placer mining is concerned, the year 1863, with its total output of nearly four millions in gold, has relnained the highest point to which production has attained. Yet Cariboo in 1900 was still yielding $700,000, the new Atlin district of the far north-west being the other leading producer with a total of over $400,000. But the days of the rocker and the sluice have 333 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS forever passed away, and the hope of the future in these fields is in the great hydraulic processes, established at enormous cost, which have already been installed on the scenes of the excitement of 1860-5. The placers, however, now yield but a small part of the annual harvest of mineral in British Columbia. l\letalliferous lode mining, which can scarcely be said to have been followed before 1891, and which now yields from the mines of the Rossland, the Nelson, the Slocan and the Boundary camps alone an annual product valued at $14,000,- 000, has become the great and foremost industry of the province. In coal mining, the small beginning of the Hudson's Bay Company on Vancouver Island which has been duly noted and which in 1861 passed under the control of the " Vancouver Coal l\lining and Land Company," has grown from year to year until an annual production of over a million and a half tons has been reached. In addition, the fields of the Crow's Nest Pass began shipping in 1898, and have now a daily capacity of four thou- sand tons, with almost unlimited resources in areas to draw upon and markets to supply. Legisla- tion of an enlightened character has accolnpanied this great development. ]n 1877, child and female labour undergroun in coal mines was forbidden, and in a series of enactments since, the safety of employees has been guarded by every means suggested by experience. The latest of these enforce the eight hour day in the coal mines, 834 INDUSTRIAL PROBLEl\IS metalliferous mines and smelters throughout the provInce. If lnanufacturing has had less incentive to growth than the sister industries, the progress Dlade is far from inconsiderable. In 1901 the Dominion cen- sus showed a capital of $22,901,892 invested in manufacturing in British Columbia, a total which places the province fourth, after Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia, in Canada. The session of the leg- islature of 1908 has placed a Factories Act upon the statute-book that constitutes perhaps the most ad- vanced legislation of the kind in Canada to-day. Industrial problelTIs of no mean order have fol- lowed in the wake of this remarkable and steady progress. In general, they have been those familiar in communities where placer-gold or other great natural resources are free to all. The spirit of buoy- ancy, natural to a new and vigorous community, is still reflected in the high prices of commodities and in the high wages and shorter hours 'which "ride- spread organization has been able to obtain for labour. Population is less fixed than in older Can- ada, and there is less of settled order in the general industrial life. Nowhere in Canada have industrial disputes been waged with greater bitterness and violence than in British Columbia. This, however, is but to say that the province, in spite of its substantial achievements, is still in its infancy as an industrial community, and that the impulse which it obeys is western. 335 SIR JA1'.1ES DOUGLAS The problem of Oriental labour is shared with the rest of the Pacific coast. From the days of the first rush of gold-seekers into the Fraser ,raIley, the Chinese have been in the province. The first official reference to their presence is found, in 1859, in a report of the assistant g.old commissioner of the district of Lytton, 'which 'was thought of sufficient ilnportance to warrant transmission to the colonial office. The first detachment numbered in the neigh- bourhood of thirty. Trouble follo,ved almost Í1n- mediately in their wake. The supplying of liquor to the savages by the whites soon found a danger- ous counterpart in their being furnished 'with arms and ammunition by the Chinese, and when the min- ers drove the latter away the result was to arouse the open hostility of the Indians. The Chinese were present in considerable numbers in the opening up of Cariboo, working by their patient effort claims that the white miner passed over in contempt. By 1881, they numbered 4,383. The period of the con- struction of the Canadian Pacific Railway followed, and by 1891 there were 9,129 Chinese in Canada. But the heaviest influx began in 1895, between which year and 1898 the average imlnigration of Chinese amounted to 2,100 yearly. By 1901, the total had reached 16,792, of wholn 14,376 accord- ing to incomplete returns, remained in British Columbia. A capitation tax of $50, later raised to 8100, proved ineffectual to stem the tide. The highest point of the movement was reached in 1900 336 ORIENTAI Il\Il\fIGRATION when over six thousand l\Iongolians landed in Brit- ish Columbia between the months of January and April alone. Thereupon a Royal Commission of en- quiry,vas appointed by the Dominion governlnent, in reply to a petition of the pro\yince, on whose re- commendation the capitation tax was raised to $500, since ,vhen the inflow has, until quite recent- ly, wholly ceased. The ÏInmigrants are of the coolie class entirely, and though not criminal are incapable of assimilation, and live without family life in over- crowded and unsanitary communities. The verdict of the province at large is for the careful regulation of the whole movement, though by the employers of labour, especially those engaged in the extensive works that accompany the development of a new country, the cheap but inferior services of the Chinese are in demand. 'fhe question of Japanese immigration has arisen almost wholly in the past decade. It may be said to have reached its solution ,vithin the past year as the result of a special mission to .Japan of the linister of Labour for Canada. Still more recently the movement from India has been restricted under an arrangement concluded by the Deputy l\Iinister of Labour with the government of Great Britain. In this review of purely material progress no mention has been made of the background of provincial politics against which it has been carried out. The truth is that the annals of political con- troversy in British Columbia are not of widespread 337 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS interest. As in the days of Douglas, the issues that have arisen have been of practical administration almost wholly. For that reason, possibly, a lack of leadership or even of constructive party organiza- tion (marked contrast with the period of Douglas!) has been a feature of the politics of British Co- lumbia. As already mentioned, the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway furnished matter for the politicians of a decade, and the local issues which arose in conjunction 'with the controversy with the. Dominion were not always worthy of remem- brance. Yet some exceedingly useful legislation has been enacted, and in many respects the 'way has been shown to the older provinces. Even in the days of conflict 'with the Don1inion over the terms of union, sufficient respite was obtained to allow the original restrictions on the suffrage to be abolished by a series of Acts dealing with qualifica- tion and registration. After this, attention was paid to municipal affairs, the administration of justice, the providing of a revenue, the improvement of communications, the establishment of a lands policy, and other matters of vital import to the development of the province. Education may well demand a statement to itself. A beginning, as we know, was made in the Crown colony of ,r ancouver Island in the public schools which 'were opened by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1855, with the Rev. Edward Cridge, the clergyman of the company, as the first honor- 338 EDUCATION ary superintendent of education. Ten years after- 'wards, in 1865, a free school system was established by the island assembly; but the population of the mainland was still too sparse to admit of any regular and organized system. Even on V ancou ver Island the cost of schools did not exceed $10,000 per annUDl (the average pay of teachers being $65.00 per month) and six of the eleven schools established in 1865 had been forced by 1867 to discontinue for lack of funds. By 1869, when the united colonies passed legislation on the subject, there 'were still only twelve schools in existence, seven being on the island, while of a school population estimated at two thousand, only three hundred and fifty 'were at school. Teachers were appointed without examination, and there 'was no inspection. The end of this disorganized and inefficient system caIne with the Act of 1872, based largely, on the Ontario Act of 1846, but modified to suit the immense area of the pro- vince and the scattered nature of the population. Under the improved conditions 'which immediately followed, by 1874 there were over 1,200 names on the various registers. By 1875 these had risen to 1,685, the number of schools being forty-five and of teachers fifty. At present the roll is over 78,000. The consolidated Public School Act of 1876, the Public School Act of 1879, and further amend- ments and consolidations in 1885 and 1891 are later milestones in the progress of education in the 339 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS province. The Victoria High School dates from 1876, and those of New Westminster, N anaimo and Vancouver froln 1884, 1886 and 1890, respectively. The crowning point of the system may be said to have been reached in ] 906 with the establishment of the Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning in British Columbia, in close affiliation with one of the greatest of the universities of older Canada, and 'with the passing of an Act in 1907 'whereby the University of British Columbia, first prqjected in 1891, was granted a reservation of pro- vincial lands for use at such time as it might be thought desirable to proceed with its organization. In 1908 that organization ,vas finally perfected under special Act of the session. Two important matters remain to be mentioned in both of 'which the interests of the province were prinlarily concerned, though the questions, being international in scope, 'were dealt with by Great Britain and the Dominion. These were the controversies concerning jurisdiction in Beh- ring Sea and with regard to the location of the Alaskan boundary. The former arose from the attempt of the United States to make of Behring Sea a mare clausum, under the terms of the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. Re- lying on her interpretation of the Russian agree- ments, seizures of a number of Canadian vessels found sealing ,vithin those waters were made by the United States in 1886, 1888 and 1889. On the 340 THE Al.ASKAN BOUNDARY protest of Great Britain, the dispute was referred to arbitration, and the award declared the seizures to be unlawful, Russia having been proved never to have made good her claim that the sea be- tween Alaska and Siberia 'vas hers alone and not a part of the great Pacific. The dispute con- cerning the Alaskan boundary had been in pro- gress for several years, and a joint commission to locate the boundary had conducted surveys during 1893-4. Here again the controversy pro- per was one involving the interpretation of the convention between Great Britain and Russia in 1825. Did the line determining the thirty miles of lisière provided for by the treaty go around the inlets and interior waters of the coast (including the Lynn Canal concerning which the 'widest divergence of views occurred and to which the events arising out of the Yukon gold discover- ies gave special prominence); or should it pass along the summits of the mountain range nearest the shore line, crossing all narrower waters? The de- cision of 1903, arrived at after negotiations lasting many months, and yielding nearly all to the United States, still smoulders with the dissatisfaction which it aroused in Canada. Nevertheless, with the confidence born of power, the ending of uncertain- ty has been accepted as a gain in British Colum- bia, and the province is now enabled to bend her energies, 'without disquietude as without vain re- grets, to the splendid tasks of the future. 341 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS How, then, shall we of the present, looking before and after, with knowledge of events of half a century, pass judgment on James Douglas, the man 'whose work and character make up the early history of a region so great in itself (as time has but begun to prove) and doubly great because it brings to our people a share in the mighty destinies of the Pacific? Ijet us begin with a definition. Let us recall the scale on which he wrought and something of the essential nature of his task, and so preserve our sense of proportion. It 'was not what one 'would call a great scale; it 'was not, by several standards, a great task. 'Ve are apt to be confused by the vast- ness of the raw materials of statehood which passed through his hands, and so forget the smallness of the human part in its beginning, the few points at which it touched its immense background of nature, and the simple and elementary character of the polity 'which first arose. Far off and isolated as the colony was, and closely guarded by the sover- eign power, here were no problems, save at widest intervals, touching the rival interests of nations; to make the obvious comparison with the eastern colonies, there was here no feud of ruling races to allay, no Family Compact to uproot, no Clergy Reserve to divide, no complicated fiscal policy to arrange. If difficulties such as these arose, even in rudimentary form, they were settled apart from Douglas, or their settlement deferred. He antedated 842 THE NATURE OF HIS TASK the real political development of British Columbia, and he dealt with no inherited conditions. The truth is, he 'was almost 'wholly an admin- istrator. Risen to be the leader of the great com- mercial enterprise which had thrust its roots so deeply into that virgin soil, the process of events 'which made him ruler under the Crown in British Columbia 'was, 'when all is said, a change of masters primarily. 'Vhile varying the ends to be attained, and the means with which to secure them, it made no vital alteration in those methods and principles by which he had been wont to govern aU his actions. The establishment of discipline and order among the miners of the Fraser valley, the framing of the rules by which the single occupation of the inhabitants might be carried on, the building of roads, the founding of cities, the financing of the system as a whole-such were his practical cares. It was as if some huge and novel enterprise, reared upon the basis of a past that had van- ished as if at a word, were placed for its develop- ment in his charge, his powers unlimited in all the multifarious concerns of management, but subject in their larger action to the plans, the policy and the approval of its original creator. The difficulties and responsibilities of his position were indeed very great; had they fallen into hands less competent, had they fallen even into other hands at all, it might almost be said they would have carried con- fusion if not disaster to the colony. Yet 'with it all 343 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS the work of Douglas was that of a builder and organizer, not that of an architect and creator in the fashioning of British Columbia. 'Ve "rill do well, then, to remember that of statesmanship in the broad and usual sense the career of Douglas does not furnish an example. How, in truth, should he have been a statesman? From the days of his youth he had had to deal ,vith naked fact-with the struggle first for bare ex- istence, and later with the fierce and merciless rivalry against which he had fought his "ray, step by step and ,vith a stern enjoyment, until he stood free and in full mastery of the huge concern to which he had bound his fortunes. Alert and studious as he "ras, there "ras still a great gulf fixed between a training such as that and an apprentice- ship to liberal statecraft. l\loreover, to repeat, it "ras not to the exercise of statecraft he "ras called. In the emergency of 18.58, Douglas had qualities of a value to the country greater than any working knowledge of the principles of constitutionalism. From the school of forty years' service in the Hudson's Bay Company he had derived an ex- perience-minute as it was comprehensive, and wholly "rithout parallel on the north-west coast-of every problem of the British Columbia "rilderness. That stern devotion to his duty, that perfection of the organizing faculty, and that absolute n1astery of detail which at all times characterized the mind of Douglas, were a part of what the company had 344 HIS PERSONAL GIFTS taught him. Gifts 'wholly personal were his tact, his resourcefulness, his judgment, and the firmness with 'which he could enforce his decisions. Aboy'e all, he had the power, both by nature and by train- ing, of ruling men. He was the one nlan of his time and place of whom as much could be said. If, there- fore, ,ve shall find hiIn often 'wrong in matters that lay beyond his experience-narrow in his attitude toward the foreigner, the British policy of no dis- crimination being for long beyond his grasp; prone to precipitation in certain phases of the affaÍr of San Juan; mistrustful ever of popular government (being, to a degree beyond that of the ordinary idealist, a believer in benevolent despotism); opposed even to confederation in his later years ;-and while ,ve shall have reason often to rejoice that the im- perial curb was present in his administration; ,ve shall never see him at a loss in any matter of the actu::,J management of the colony or without the courage of his convictions when he felt himself on ground which was his own. And that is indeed to praise him greatly. Confronted with an inrush of the most ad venturous and irresponsible classes in the world, rough and ungovernable 'when they were not vicious, owning no law or authority save that of their own rude customs, and powerful enough to sweep all before them had they willed, -the situation doubly embarrassed by the pro- blem of the native races,- Douglas was able of his own prestige and personality, without jot or 345 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS tittle of precedent whereon to base his action, to turn aU to the upbuilding of the colony, estab- lishing the law and sovereignty of Great Britain, firmly maintaining order, organizing the new com- munity on terms that 'won the support and con-' fidence, where they might have looked only for the enlnity, of the 'wild and uncouth masses which made up the population, giving in short to the world at large the spectacle of a gold-field ruled as it was never ruled before, and laying the sure foundations of a greater community to be. This 'was the crown- ing achievement of Douglas carried out at no small sacrifice of his own ease and fortune; never may we cease to cherish appreciation of it. I t is proper to add that no one was more con- scious of his place in the political development of British Columbia than 'was Douglas himself. At sixty-one years old, in full possession of his powers, with an experience of the country greater than that of any other man, he chose to regard his public career as ended, rather than to launch upon that unknown sea on 'which the methods of all his past 'were to unlearn. For he 'was a product of the fur trade, first and always. He ruled the colony as he had ruled his company before. He could rule abso- lutely, but he could not govern. Thus let him stand, the greatest figure which the fur trade of Canada ever gave to the order 'which came after it. I t may be ,veIl to notice again. 'with this domin- ance of the Hudson's Bay Company over the mind 846 DOUGLAS AND THE C01\fP ANY of Douglas in view, a basis of attack that was once of frequent use in the hands of his enemies. He has been many times condenlned in that, while governor of Vancouver Island and still in the chief command of the company, he did not scruple to turn his dual office to the sole advantage of the commercial enterprise. But this is surely to misread the situation. As a matter of fact, Douglas in his capacity of governor and chief factor in one was almost wholly the chief factor. It could not have been otherwise. The British government was fully cognizant and expected, probably, no more than that the arrangement should secure, during an un- settled and indeterminate interval, the recognition of the imperial authority as supreme. This it did. Even the illegal assumption of the control of the Fraser in ] 858 tended to the imperial advantage, though the more immediate object was the benefit of the company. The subservience of the govern- ment's interests was further emphasized by the agreement which threw the expenses of administra- tion upon the company. Anomalous as were the re- lations thus created, they may not improbably have saved the colony from greater evils. In any case the charge of subordinating the interests of govern- ment to those of the company so many times pre- ferred by contemporary and later critics must be laid at the door of the system rather than of Doug- las. In the mainland colony no bitterness from this cause arose. Notorious as was the singleness of pur- 347 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS pose with which the Honourable Company of Ad- venturers trading into IIudson Bay pursued its ends, and with which (so powerful was the influence of that life of isolation and grinding discipline) it was able to inspire its servants from the governor down, no serious charge of favouritism was ever brought home to Douglas once his relations with the company were severed and he had pledged himself to the sole service of the Crown. If he never ceased to regard the company with that ex- aggerated reverence which seems the inevitable re- sult of having once risen in its service, this is only to say that the force of nature was too strong for him and that he could not rise superior to so subtle and overwhelming an influence. D pon the whole, however, if the testimony of his own age be sought, it is greatly in his favour. Of those whom he served, whether Crown or company, the approval was never-failing. He was indeed the most indefatigable, the most devoted, and the most efficient of executive officers. The confidence which the imperial government extended to him, in the almost absolute power which it placed in his hands, was of the highest of its kind. 1 t is not essential that we should attempt to fuse the judgment of his other contemporaries. If he won favour from those he served, it was not at the expense of the mass of the people. Discontent among the miners was not always silent, nor did the attempt to levy tribute on their enterprise fail 348 HIS INFLUENCE WITH THE INDIANS to encounter fierce resistance; yet with the adoption of wiser counsels, as soon as he was free to do so, Douglas gained a unique place in the miner's heart for his even-handed justice and his strict protection of their interests. But greater far as an achieve- ment was the hold which he secured and main- tained upon the Indians. To the simple nature of the savage the gift of intuition has been added in unusual measure. Noone more quickly recog- nizes weakness; no one is readier to acknowledge superiority. To win the Indian's confidence and obedience requires not only constant tact and care, it has need of a courage never known to waver and of a strict integrity of purpose as the guiding prin- ciple in every action. Especially was this the case with the native races of British Columbia, who if less warlike than their kindred of the plains, ranked higher in all the moral qualities and were proverbial for their honesty, their hospitality and their chastity. Building upon the foundations which the Hudson's Bay Company had established in forty years of intercourse, Douglas attained much more than the usual influence of trader and friend. He became, as they called him, their father, to whom under the slow and crushing weight of the white invader they could look with the trustfulness of children to temper, if he could not turn aside, the bitterness of their fate. Thus by his personal author- ity he gained what under other circumstances might have cost the effusion of blood; and the colony saw 849 SIR JAl\IES DOUGLAS none of the outrages that for years held the western states in terror. Fear may at the first have formed a portion of the awe which he inspired; but in the end it was the justice and the kindliness of the governor that won their confidence. By nature crafty and suspicious, keen to resent intrusion, and reticent of their strongest feeling, they never for an instant questioned the perfect ascendency which he had gained over their minds, even while they saw their lands despoiled before their eyes or snatched from their possession. Decimated though they had been by the vices and diseases of civiliza- tion, they were still in 1858, when they passed beneath the British Crown, at least as strong in numbers as the invaders who dispossessed them. To the man who by the patient work of years could hold in leash this formidable element, exas- perated by a treatment which had often added insult to injury, the debt of the young community is not easily to be estimated. In person Sir James Douglas was not of the ordinary; the fact is of importance. It was a personal rule he bore. Six feet and more in height, but so well proportioned as not to seem beyond the usual stature, erect in carriage, muscular, measured and somewhat slow in his mO\7ements, yet natural and graceful withal, he was easily the most striking figure in the whole N orth- '-'Test. As he grew older, says Bancroft, the long face seemed to grow longer, the high forehead to grow 850 DOUGLAS AND J\lcLOUGHLIN still more massive and the large and dear-cut features to assume still bolder proportions, while the firm and earnest purpose of the eyes and mouth deepened into a seriousness akin to melancholy. In a London thoroughfare as in a Canadian forest, in a parliament of the nations as in a hut of the fur traders, he would have fixed attention. Linked with those outer traits were a reserve and dignity, amounting often to hauteur, which a life-time of command had made a part of the man. But the cold and stern demean our, the slow, even lethargic, manner, the formal and exaggerated courtesy, the serious, not to say solemn, cast of thought, the product of a widely Informed though not original mind, expressed in a weighty, if not grandiose, habit of speech, were tempered by a deep religious- ness that breathed through all his actions and made him to those who could pierce the inscrutable ex- terior a revelation of sympathy and kindness. To the people whom he ruled he was the personifica- tion of justice clothed with power. In that wild unsettled tÎ1ne, so s'wayed by the obvious and in- stinctive, it was a happy setting for the qualities demanded in a governor. It has been the practice to compare him (not at all points to his advantage) with l\IcLoughlin, the other leader which the fur trade bred on the Pacific slope; and the foil which the older man presents to the younger and, it may be said, the greater, has value of a striking kind in the at- 851 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS tempt to probe the inner recesses of the person- ality of Douglas. Fashioned by the same life and precepts, in the same iron mould of circumstance and environlnent, inseparably wedded to ma- terialism, there was inevitably much of similarity in their character and in the manner in which they achieved their results. In bent of mind, in outward deportment, and in business methods, Douglas copied largely from his master. Each nature, how- ever, had qualities which marked it sharply from the other. Temperamentally, l\IcLoughlin ,vas a Celt; Douglas was a Saxon. l\lcLoughlin was quick, impulsive, intuitional; Douglas was methodical, conventional, exceedingly careful, and never to be hurried. Without the warmth, the artlessness, the spontaneity or the broad benevolence of l\lcLough- lin, Douglas would win respect long before he touched the affections. I t has been noted as a characteristic difference that l\fcLoughlin could flatter, but that Douglas could not, though in diplomacy on a wider scale the latter was the superior. l\lagnanimous and forgetful of self, l\lc- Loughlin if he inspired fear and awe did so for his masters; when his company's interests clashed with his sense of humanity, it was the cOlnpany and his own fortunes that had to suffer. Now Douglas would be a party to no disloyalty however virtuous; he never moved save toward success. That was his duty as he saw it, and to duty he could not be recreant. It is not that he ever failed 852 THE SUPRE!\IE VIRTUE in justice, or in kindness where it was deserved; but even righteousness and humanity were made to yield their profit. \Vhen l\IcLoughlin fell, there was no quixotic devotion to him on the part of Douglas; he stepped into his place. If you were asked why he should not, you would be puzzled for an answer. You will never find Douglas in the wrong; he was without the weaknesses of which unworthiness is bred. His was a greater intellect than l\lcLoughlin's, and he achieved a greater destiny. N either ever did an ignoble act. Side by side, as in life, their names shall go down unsullied in the annals of the great north- west. I t comes, therefore, in the end, as we search for the supreme virtue in the life and character of Douglas, to a recognition of his plain effi- ciency-that burning zeal, whatever the task in hand, to do it in the way that shall be best, with the sagacity to devise and the ability to carry out the measures adapted to this end. Being what he was, he would have risen to distinction, if not to greatness, anywhere. He had the key that opens every door, that of opportunity included. For how can opportunity be created by any man save by the preparedness and efficiency with which he faces the ,vorld? " A work is wanted to be done, and 10, the man to do it!" Difficult and unexampled as was the task of giving earliest form to British Columbia, 858 SIR JAIVIES DOUGLAS the country itself produced the man who carried it to a successful issue. The genius of Douglas \\?as of our o\\rn ,vestern soil: let us remember that with just pride. Let it be thought of happy augury to the great province of the Pacific that in the most dubious hour of her history she found within her- self the leadership that brought her to safety and enabled her to face her destiny unafraid. 354 INDEX A ABERDEEN, Earl of, 183 Addington, Henry, British com is- missioner in the Oregon bound- ary dispute, 154, 163 Ag-riculture, in British Columbia, 78, 113, 128, 129, 130, 131, 136, 185, 256, 316, 329 Alaska, trade with, 78. See also Russia Alaskan boundary question, the, 118, 283, 341 Alexandria, Fort, 98 Aliens, rights of, 244. See al () Foreigners Allan, Sir Hugh, 321 Allarçon, explorer, 6 American Civil 'Var, 281, 282 Amor de Cosmos, 271, 306-8 Anderson, A. C., 117, 120, 186, 217, 222 Annexation with United States, dis- cussed, 311, 323 Anian, strait of, 2, 9, 15, 19 Antler Creek, 287 Ashburton, Lord, 156 Ashlev, American trader, 134 Assembly, Vancouver Island, 208. See also Legislature Astor, John Jacob, 68 Astoria, 4, 64, 65, 71, 133, 148, 149, 150, 160, 161, 163 Athabaska Pass, discovered, 58 Aurora claim, the, 287 INDEX B BABINE, Fort, 98 Babines, the, an Indian tribe, 97 Balboa, Vasco Nunez de, Spanish discoverer, 5, 91 Bancroft, Herbert H., quoted, 10.5, 198, 283, 352 Baranoff, Alexander Andreyevitch, Russian governor, 43, 44, 45 Barkerville, 287 Baynes, Rear-Admiral, 245 Bear Lake, 104 Beaver, the, 178, 179, 180, 181, 185 Beaver Harbour, 204 Beg ie, Sir Matthew Baillie, judge of British Columbia, early Hfe, appointed chief-justice of British Columbia and Vancouver Island in 1866, his work in the colony, 239; his journey to the LTpper Fraser and his impressions, 254, 255; his stern and impartial jus- tice, 255 Behring Sea dispute, the, 283, iJ40 Behring, Vitus, navigator, 39, 40 Billings, Joseph, 26 Blanshard, Richard, first governor of the colony, 199; his tenure of office, 203-5 Bodeg-a y Quadra, see Quadra Bolduc, Jesuit missionary, 140, 178, 179 Bonneville, American trader, ]35 Boston, destruction of the, 37 357 SIR JAl\lES DOUGLAS Boundary, Bee Alaskan boundary, Oregon boundary, San Juan affair Bow River Pass, discovered, 58 Brew, Chartres, 239 Brigades, the, 82 British Columbia, origin of, 1; name, 57; organization, 229; cou- stitution of colony, 231, 232; in 1858, 241,242; dissatisfaction iu, 289-95; wealth of, at Confedera- tion, 316; later progress iu, 311 et seq. Broughton, Lieutenant, explores the Columbia, 24, 34, 161 Buchanan, President, 156 C CABRILLO, Spanish explorer, 6 Cadboro, the, 116, 180, 185, 188 Calhoun, represents the United States on the Oregon boundary question, 156, 164 California, coasted, 6, 7, 12, 15; garrisoned by Spain, 13; Russia in, 44; Hudson's Bay Company in, 125-7 Callicum, native chief, 27 Cameron, David, first chief-justice of the colony, 200, 217 Camosun, Indian village, 175, 176 Campbell, Archibald, United States commissioner on the A I ask a boundary question, 278 Campbell, Robert, explorer, 123-5 Canada, cession of, 62 Canadian Pacific Railway, 313, 315, 317-27 Canneries, the British Columbia, 331. See a180 Fishing 858 Canning, Stratford, rep re s e n ts Great Britain on the Oregon boundary dispute, 154 Capital of British Columbia, selec- tion of, 246, 299, 300, 311 Cariboo, 254; gold discovered in, 271, 284-9, 298 Cariboo wagon road, the, 253 Carey, G. H., 239 Carnarvon terms, the, 320, 322 Carriers, the, 97 Carver, Jonathan, 19, 56 Cassiar, 286, 287 Castlereagh, Lord, 150 Cavendish, Sir Thomas, English sailor, 8 Cedar Creek, 286 Charles, 'Villiam, 265 Chilcotin Indians, 97, 267 China, emporium for furs, 22; trade with, 70 Chinese, 291, 336, 337 Chinook j!lrgon, the, 268 Clark, see Lewis and Clark Clatsop, Lewis and Clark at, 67 Clayoquot, 33 Clergy Reserves, 270, 271, 273, 274 Clover Point, 177 Coal mining, 78, 190, 334 Colnett, Captain, explorer, 22 Colonist, the, newspaper, founded, 271, 306, 308 Colonization, progress of, in Amer- ica, 2, 12. See also Settlement, Immigration Columbia River, seen by Heceta, 14; discovered by Gray, 24; de-. scended by Thompson, 58 Columbia, voyage of the, 23, 24 Colville, Fort, 116, 222 Committee of House of Commons on Hudson's Bay Company, 201-3 Confederation, 311 et seq. Conolly, '\ïlliam, chief factor, 99 Conolly, Fort, 104 Constitution of British Columbia, 231 Contiguity, as a claim to lOVe- rei nty, 163 Convoy, the, 136 Cook, Captain James, English navi- gator, 14, 19; arrives on the north-west coast of North Amer- ica (1778), 20; explores the coast from the 45th parallel to the Arctic Ocean, 20, 21; killed in the Sandwich Islands (1779), 21 ; mentioned, 50, 148, 160 Cook's Inlet, discovery of, 21 Cooper, James, 197, 204 Co-operation, in road building, 238, 250, 261 Coppermine River, discovered, ðl Coronada, Francis o Vasquez de, Spanish explorer, 7 Cortez, 6 Cosmos, Amor de, Bee Amor de Co mos Cottonwood River, the, 287 Council, established on Vancouver Island, 204, 207; of British Co- lumbia, established, 294; abolish- ed, 315 Cowlitz River, agriculture on the, 130, 301 Council, legi lative, of British Co- lumbia, 231, 294 Couteau mines, the, 223 Cowichans, the, Indian tribe, 182 Crosby, Thomas, 270 INDEX Crown lands, 240, 291 Crow's Nest Pass coal mines, 334 Crow's Nest Pass Railway, 327 Cunningham Creek, 287 Currency, United States, legalized, 273 Customs duties, see Duties, Tariff, Taxation Cutler, American settler on San Juan, 280, 281 D DAIRYING, 330. See a!".o Agricul- ture Dallas, A. G., son-in-law of Douglas and governor of the Hudson's Bay Company at \Vinnipeg, 103, 200; president of the Victoria board of management, 265 Dease, H.B.C. factor and explorer, 285 Dease, Fort, 124 Debt, colonial, 262. See also Fin- ance Demers, Rev. Father, Jesuit mis- sionary, 141, 269 Déné Indians, 97 Derby (New Langley), 246 Dewdney, E, minister of the in- terior for Canada and later lieu- tenant-governor of British Co- lumbia, 252, 253 Dewdney trail, the, 253 Discovery, as a claim to sovereign- ty, 159, 160 Dixon, Captain, fur trader, 22 Douglas, Sir James, his place in western history, 84-6; character. istics, 87-9; birth, parentage and education, 91-3; joins the North- 359 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS West Company, 93-4; in New Caledonia, 96t 99, 100-9; his marriage, 103; is sent to Fort Vancouver, 110, 112, 113; activ- ities there, 121-2; in California, 126; succeeds McLoughlin, 144; founds Victoria, 175-80; removes to Victoria, 188; his relations with Blanshard, 203; appointed governor of Vancouver Island t 205; nature of his rule, 207-8; summons a legislature, 209 j his in- aug-ural speech, 211-16; adminis- tration of justice, 218; his reports on g-old discoveries, 219,220,222, 223t 228; his relations with the miners, 226; visits the .Fraser, 227; appointed governor of British Columbia, 229t 230; his powers, 231,234,235; appointments, 240; second visit to the Fraser t 243, 244; sworn in as g-overnor, 245, 246; builds the first trail to the digg-ings, 249-5:2; sub se que n t roads, 252-4; third visit to the Fraser, 256t 257; his financial policy t 258-62; his attitude to the Hudson's Bay Company, 263, 264, 346-8; his disputes with the Vancouver Island assembly, 272, 273; the San Juan affair, 275-83; retires as governor of Vancouver Island t 289; dissatisfaction with dual governorship, 289t 290; his views 011 representative govern- ment for British Columbia, 292-4; opens the British Columbia as- semblYt 296; retires from gover- norshipofBritish Columbia,300-7; visits Europe, 308-9; his death, 860 310; review of his work and char. acter, 342-54: Douglas, Captain William, 27, 28 Douglas fir, the, 332 Drake, Sir Francis, 7, 8, 16, 147 Dufferin, Lord, 323 Duncan, Captain, 22 Duncan, 'Villiam, Church of Eng- land missionary, 270 Dunn, John, 117 Durham, Fort, 122 Duties, import, 232, 291 E EDGAR t SIR JAMES, 320 Edinburgh Review, the, on Oregon, 170 Education, 215, 271, 296, 338, 339 Election, first, on Vancouver Island, 210, 274 Electoral distriets, B.C., 315 Elisa, Spanish explorer, his attempt to explore the strait of Juan de Fuca, 25, 26 England, see Great Britain Esquimalt t 175 Essington, Fort, 118 Etoline, Adolphus, Russian g-over- nor, 45, 122 Expenditures, public t 216, 258, 295. See also Finance F FACTORIES ACT t the B.C. t 335 Fidalgo, 26 Financial condition of British Co- lumbia, 216, 258, 262t 295. See also Revenue Finlayson, Roderick, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, 117; with the force that took posses- sion of Fort Stikine, 122; takes charge at Fort Camosun, 181-3; appointed head accountant of the ,"Testern Department, 188-9; in- cluded in Douglas's council of advisers, 207; member of the first British Columbia council, 217 Finlayson, Lake, 124 Fishing, ill New Caledonia, 101,102; at Langley, 116, 129, 136, 330 Florida treaty, the, 153. 165 Fonte, Admiral de, 19, 22 Foreigners, status of, 219, 220,231, 255, 258 Forts, plan of Hudson's Bay Com- pany's, 82 Fox, Charles James, 32 Frances, Lake, discovered, 124 Franklin, Sir John, 103 Fraser, Simon, operations in New Caledonia, 59; descends the Ta- couche Tesse, 60, 61; as..,urnes command of the Red River De- partment, 98; his death, 98 Fraser, Fort, 98 Fraser route, the, 186 Free trade, on Vancouver Island, 293 French Revolution, the, 17, 31 Friendly Cove, Spanish settlement at, 26; visited by Meares, 26, 27 Fruit growing, 330 Fuca, Juan de, voyage of, 8, 9 Fur trade, in sea-otter, 22; status of, 161, characteristics of; 73-82. See al80 Hudson's Bay Company G GALIANO, Lieutenant, 3ð INDEX Gallatin, representative of the United States ill the Oregon boundary dispute, 151, };).!, 158, 161, 170 Galvez, Spanish governor, 13, 15 George, Fort, 98 George, Fort (Astoria), 149 German Emperor, arbitrator in the San Juan affair, 283 Ghent, Treaty of, 149, 151, 16.5 Glenora, Fort, 121 Gold, discovery of, in California, 189; on the Fraser, 208, 221-8; in Queen Charlotte IslandEl, 219; yield of, 256. See also Cariboo Gold Harbour, 221 Gold Mines Act of 1859, 261 Gordon, Hon. John, 183 Goulburne, representative of Great Britain on the Oregon boundary dispute, 151 Grahame, James A., 265 Grant, President, 283 Grant, UT, Colquhoun, 196 Gray, Captain, of Boston, 23; dis- covers the Columbia River, 24, 57, 148, 160, 161 Great Britain, in the Pacific, rights of, on north-west coast, 7,10, 11, 16, 18, 29, 30, 61, 148. See also Chap. V, øeriatim Great Northern Railway, 328 Greenhow, American historiogra- pher, 155, 169 Grey, Earl, 220 Grouse Creek, 287 H HALKETT, Fort, 123 Hanley, "T. 'Vymond, collector of Customs, 239 361 SIR JA1\IES DOUGLAS Hanna, James, first trader in sea. otter, 22 Harmon, 98 Harney, General, commander of the military department of Oregon, 281,282 Haro archipelago, the, 276, 277, 280 Haro, Canal de, 276, 279 Harvey Creek, 287 Hearne, Samuel, 61, 63 Heceta, Spanish explorer, 14, 67, 148 Helmcken, J. S., speaker of the leg is I a ture and son-in-law of Douglas, arrives in Victoria, 189; member for Esquimalt, 210, 217; re-elected to the parliament of Vancouver Island, 274 Hill's Bar, Douglas at, 227; affair of, 247, 248 Hindu immigration, 337 Hope, voyage of the, 25 Hope, Fort, 186 Hope, miners at, 227 Horsefly Creek, 286 Hours of labour, in mines and smelters, 334 Howe's Pass, discovered by Thomp. son, 58 Hudson's Bay Company, traders and explorers of, 4; it rules the interior, 12; explorers on behalf of the company, 61; absorbs the North-\Vest Company, 73, 162; leading characteristics, general system and policy, 73-8 ; some prominent members of, 83-6; ex- tension of trade, 114 et aeq.; tries to secure a foothold in California, 362 125-7; its relations with the Puget Sou n d Agricultural Company, ] 29-31; its policy with the United States settlers, 143-5; its acquisi. tion of Vallcouver Island, colon- ization and civil government, 191- 205; its officers elected to the first parliament 0 f Vancouver Island, 217; its license in British Columbia revoked, 229, 233; a warning against favouritism, 240; its relation to the colony, 262; its internal history since 1859, 265,266; the San Juan affair, 275- 83; Douglas's forty years service in, 344, 346, 347, 349 Huskisson, representative of Great Britain in the Oregon boundary dispute, 154, 163 I IMJlIIORATION, to Oregon, 138-43, 156, 192; to Vancouver Island, 195-206; Oriental, to British Co. lumbia, 336-8 Indians, encounters with, by early traders, 37; relations with, 79, 80, 214, 220, 233, 243, 266-7, 296; Douglas's influence over, 350 Industrial developments, early, 78; later, in British Columbia, 329-35 Ingraham, American explorer, 25 J JAPANESE immi ration, 337 Jargon, the Chinook, 268 Jefferson, Thomas, character of, 64; policy of, 65, 66, 67, 169 Jesuits, the, 3, 12; in Oregon, 138; in British Columbia, 269 J e sup, G e n era I, report of, on Oregoll, 163, 164 Juan de Fuca, Spanish explorer, 8, 9, 22 Justice, administration of, in British Columbia, 215,216, 217, 255 K KAMLOOPS, 98, 222 Kamtchatka, fur trade in, 38 Keithley Creek, 287 Kelly, of Boston, his scheme of col- onization, 135, 136 Kendrick, Captain, 23, 24 Kennedy, Arthur, a p poi n t e d governor of Vancouver Island, 289 Kennedy, John E., member of Van- couver Island's first assembly, 210, 217 Kootenay district, first explored by Thompson, 58 Kootenay trail, the, 253, 298 Krusenstern, Russian navigator, his explorations, 46 L LABOUCHÈRE, British colonial secre- tary, 209, 210 Labour, condition of, in British Co- lumbia, 316; in mines, 334, 335. See also 'V a s Langford, Captain, bailiff of the Puget Sound Company, 199; his grievances, 199, 200; elected a member of Vancouver Island's first assembly, but, lackin the necessary qualifications, is dis- placed, 210, 211 Laílgley, conditions at, 227 INDEX Langley, Fort, 116, 245 La Pérouse, French naval officer, 25 Ledyard, John, 68 Lee, Jason, 137, 140 Legislature, opening of, in Van- couver Island, 212-6; in British Columbia, 315 Lemaire, Dutch navig-ator, 5 Lewis and Clark, their expedition to the mouth of the Columbia, 64, 160; in command of Jeffer- son's great expedition across the continent, 60-9, 148 Liard, River, ascent of the, 123 Liard, Fort, 123 Library, the first, in British Co- lumbia, 1 I 7 Licenses, liquor, 244; mining, 261 Lighthouses, 258, 260 Lightning Creek, 287 Lillooet road, the, 252 Liquor, sale of, 243, 244 Lots, price of, 244, 246, 247 Louisiana, passes to Spain, 13; ceded to France, 63; boundaries of, 64; purchase of, 63,64, 66, 67, 150, 153, 167, 168 Lowhee Creek, 287 Lumbering, 128, 332 Lytton, Lord, 227, 231 M MACDONALD, SIR JOHN A., 321, 324- Mackay, J. "T., 211, 217 Mackenzie, Alexander, prime min- ister of Canada, 321-3 Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, 51, 52; traces the Mackenzie River, 53; crosses to the Pacific, 54, 148 368 SIR JAl\fES DOUGLAS McGowan, ex-judge of California, a participant in the Hill's Bar af- fair, 248-9 McKay, 83, 95, 187 McLean, quoted, 106, 222 McLeod, Fort, 97 McLeod, John, ascends the Liard, 123 McLoughlin, Dr. John, 84, 94, 95, Ill, 114, 139-42, 144, 187, 351, 352 McLoughlin, Jr., John, 122 McLoughlin, Fort, 117, 178 McNeill, Captain, 117, 176 McTavish, Dugald, 265 Magellan, Fernando, Portuguese navigator, 6 Mails, transport of, 233. See al80 Postage Maldonado. Pedro Nunez, 6 Manson, Donald, in command of Fort McLoughlin, 117; with Tol- mie founds the first circulating library on the Pacific coast, 117, 118; rules in New Caledonia for twelve years, 285, 286 Manufacturing, in B r i tis h Co- lumbia, 335 Maquinna, native chief, 27 Marchand, Etienne, explores the north-west coast, 25 Marco Polo, Venetian traveller, 2 Martinez, Estevan J osé, 13, 28 Meares, Captain, 22, 26, 27, 28 Melaspina, Spanish explorer, 25 Mendoza, Spanish explorer, 6 Metlakahtla, 270 Mexico, conquest of, 3, 6, 6; agree- ment of Hudson's Bay Company with, 126, 127 . 864 Michaux, André, 68 Milton, Viscount, 317 Mines, gold, Bee Gold Mining, regulation of, 261; progress of, 333 Missionaries, 2, 114; in Oregon, 136-42; in British Columbia, 269 Mitchell Harbour, 221 Moody, Colonel, 236, 238, 247, 248, 252, 254 Monroe, Alexander, 265 Monroe, doctrine, the, 154, 167 Moresby Island, gold on, 221 Morice, Father, quoted, 107 Muir, John, 190, 210, 217 Mumford, Fort, 121 Musgrave, Anthony, a p poi n t e d governor, 314 N NAHANAIS, Indian tribe, 97 Nanaimo, 190, 191 Napoleon, mentioned, 17, 18 Needham, Chief-Justice, 239 Nelson, Fort, 123 New Albion. 8 New Caledonia, 56, 97-9, 160. See also Cariboo Newcastle, Duke of, 271 New Langley, 246 New Westminster, 247, 292, 298 Nez Percés, Indian tribe, 136, 137, 139 Nicommen, gold at, 222 Nisqually, agriculture at, 131 Nootka, discovered by Cook, 20; trade at, 268 Nootka affair, the, 26, 27, 28, 31, 32, 35, 36, 160, 166 North American Fur Company, 134 North- West America, launching of the, 28 North-'Vest Company, the, traders and explorers of, 4; its organiza- tion, object and success, 5], 52; three noted ewployees of, 57 et seq.; its connection with the Pacific Fur Company, 70, 71; absorbed by the Hudson's Bay Company, 73 North-".est passage, search for the, 13, 17, 19, 50, 51. See aMO Anian, Strait of, and Chapter It 8e1'iatim o OGDEN, P. S., 120, 126, 187, 265, 285 Qkana n, 186 Omineca, gold in, 286, 287 Oregon, origin of the name, 56; possession of, 62; Eettlement of, 138-43 Oregon boundary, 143, 145, 147- 74, 275. See aMo San Juan affair Oreg-on City, 187 Oregon River, reported by Carver, 19, 57 Orient, short route to the, 2, 6, 17 Oriental immig-ration, 336-8 Overland discovery, 49 et 8eq. Owybee, the, 136 P PACIFIC Ocean, early voya es in, 3, 4, 12, 18 et seq. Pacific Fur Company, 68, 69, 70, 71, 134, 152 INDEX Pacific Mail Company, 226 Pakenham, British Ambassador to the United States, 156 Pambrun, 99 Parker, Presbyterian missionary, 137 Parliament buildings, at Victoria, 272 Peace River, ascended by Mac- kenzie, 54; by Fraser, 59 Pearkes, Geor e, 244 Pelly River, discovered by Camp- bell, 124 Pemberton, J. D., 210, 240 Perez, Juan, 13, 14, 148 Peru, conquest of, 3, 5 Pilcher, 135 Pitt, 'Villiam, 31 Pizarro, Francisco, Spanish ad- venturer, 5 Political conditions, in British Co- lumbia, 337, 338 Polk, James K., 157 Population of British Columbia, 291, 294, 328, 329 Porcupine River, 125 Portlock and Dixon, fur traders, discover the separation of the Queen Charlotte group from the mainland, 22 Portugal, ri hts of, in America, 10, 27 Postage, 233, 313, 314 Prescription, right of, 167 Prevost, Captain, 278, 283 Prices at Victoria, 225; at the Fraser di ging-s, 242, 243; of lots, 244, 246, 247; in Cariboo, 288 Prince of "'ales Island, 118 Prince \Villiam's Sound, visited by 865 SIR JAMES DOUGLAS Quadra, 15; discovered by Cook, 21 Printing, first on Pacific coast, 138 Promishleniks, the, 41 Public lands, administration of, 291. See also Crown lands Puget Sound Agricultural Com- pany, 129-31 Puritans, the, 3 Q QUADRA, BODEGA Y, voyage of, in the Sonora, 14; represents Spain in the N ootka affair, 32, 33; death of, 34 Qualifications of electors, 209, 210 Queen Charlotte Islands, visited by Perez, 14; by Portlock and Dixon, 22; by "Tilliam Douglas,. 28; gold discovered on, 219, 220 Queensborough, 247 Quesnel, Morris, 60 Quesnel, River, gold discovered on the, 284, 285, 286 Quimper, Lieutenant, 25, 148 R Raccoon, the, 149 Rae, 'V. G., 122, 127 Railways in British Columbia, 327. See also Canadian Pacific Rail- way Reciprocity Treaty, 213 Reformation, the, influence of, on colonization, 2 Renaissance, the, influence of, 2 Representative government, on Vancouver Island, 208; in British Columbia, 292-4. See also Legis- lature 366 Revenue, 297 Revillagigedo Islands, discovered, 6 Richards, Captain, 278 Roads, building of, 238, 243, 24!), 257, 305, 328 Robinson, representative of Great .Britain in the Oregon boundary dispute, 151 Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 134 Rocky Mountain Portage, 97 Rosario Strait, 276, 279 Ross, Charles, in command at Fort McLoughlin, 117; dies in com- mand at Fort Camosun, 181 Ross Settlement, the, 44 Royal Engineers, the, their duties, 232; commanded by Co Ion e 1 .Moody, 236; arrive at Victoria, 238; take part in the Hill's Bar affair, 247-9; they build a wagon road from Harrison to the Upper Fraser, 252; and the Cariboo road, 253, 254; their work com- pleted, they disband, 2,1')4 Royalty on gold proposed, 26] Rupert, Fort, 190 Rupert, Prince, of England and Bohemia, 73 Rush, representative of the United States in the Oregon boundary dispute, 151, ]54 Russia, occupies Alaska, 4, 12, ]7, 32, 37-46; trade rivalry with, 114-19; treaties with, 128, 153 Russian American Company, or- ganized, 43, 45 S ST. ELIAS, Mount, sighted by Quadra, 15 INDEX St. James, Fort, 98 Salmon, see Fishing Sandwich Islands, visited by Cook, 21; by Vancouver, 34; trade with, 78, 184 San Francisco, Hudson's Bay Com- pany at, 127 San J uan affair, the, 275-83 Santiago, voyages of the, 13, 14, 15 "Sapperton," 247 Sealing, 331 Sea-otter, 21, 22, 40, 148 Seaport, to be established, 232, 258 Sekanais, the, Indian tribe, 97, 104 Selkirk, Fort, 124 Settlement Act of 1884, 324 Settlement of new territory, 159; of Vancouver Island, 195-205 Seymour, Frederick, a p poi n t e d governor of British Columbia, 29.5, 311, 312 Siberia, conquest of, 17, 38; fur trade in, 38 Simpson, Fort, 116, 120 Simpson, Fort, on the Liard, 125 Simpson, Sir George, 109, 127 Skag'Ïts, Indian tribe, 182 Skeen a River, gold on the, 221 Smith, Donald A., (Lord Strath- cona), in the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, 265; drives the last spike of the C.P.R., 326 Smith, Jedidiah, Am e r i can fur trader, 126, 133, 134 Songhies, the, Indian tribe, 177 Sonora, voyage of the, 14, 15 Sovereignty of new territory, how acquired, 1õ9 Spain, conquers Mexico and Peru, 3, 5; national character of, 4, 11; early voyages of, õ, 6; claims of, in the New'Vorld, 10j colonial policy of, 11; activity of, 13, 14, 15, 25, 26, 29, 3.5, 147, 148, 153, 165. See also Florida Treaty, Oregon boundary, Louisiana Spaulding, American missionary to Oregon, 137, 140 Staines, Rev. R. J., chaplain to the Hudson's Bay Company, 188, 189 Stikllle, occupation of the, 119,120, 121 Stikine, Fort, 122 Strathcona, Lord, see Smith, Donald A. Stuart, John, 60, 98 Stuart Lake, discovered, 98 T TACOUCHE TESSE, discovered by Mackenzie, 54; descended by !<'raser, 59 Taku, Fort, 121, 122, 178 Tariffs, 232. See also Revenue Taxation, 290, 291. See also Revenue Telegraphs completed, 298 Texas, 164 Thompson, David, õ7; his dis- coveries, 58 Tipping', Captain, 22 Tod, John, of Fort .McLeod, 99, 100, 105, 204 Tolmie, \\r. F., in charg'e of Fort Ic- Loughlin, 117; with 1\1 a n son founds thp first circulating library on the Pacific coast, 117, 118 Tonquin, the, voyage and destruc- tion of, 37, 71 367 SIR JAl\:1ES DOUGLAS Town sites, 240, 244, 246 Trade, early expansion of, 114; growth of, 184, 316 Transportation, see Roads, Rail- ways, Canadian Pacific Railway, etc. Treaties, between England and Russia, 118, 120, 121; wit h l\1exico, 127. See also Florida, Ghent, Utrecht Treaty rights in Oregon, 165, 166 Trutch, Hon. J. 'V., first lieu- tenant-governor of British Co- lumbia, 3 6 Tsilalthach, Indian chief, 182 Tsoughilam, Indian chief, 182 Tyler, President, 156 Tzoelhnolle, a Fraser Lake Indian, 105-7 u ULLOA, ANTONIO DE, 6 Umpqua, Fort, 132 Union of the colonies of British Columbia and Vancouver Island, 29.5, 297 -300 United States, explores the north- west coast, 18, 23, 61. See a180 Oregon boundary, San Juan af- fair, California University of British Colq,mbia, 340 Utrecht, Treaty of, 10 V VALDEZ, Lieutenant, 35 Vancouver, city of, 326, 327 Vancouver, Fort, 110, 113, 132, 187 Vancouver, George, English navi- gator, 17, 19; appointed British commissioner in the Nootka af- fair, 32, 33; explores the whole 368 north-west shore line, 34; hi! friendship with Quadra cement- ed in the naming of "Quadra and Vancouver Island," 35 Vancouver Island, naming of, 35; acquired by Hudson's Bay Com- pany, 191-206; conditions in, 271- 3, 293. See a180 Chap. VII, seri- atim Vanschouten, Dutch navigator, 6 Victoria, founding of, 146, 175-8; growth of, 198, 224, 271, 290, 298; selected as capital, 311 Vizcaino, Sebastian, Spanish navi- gator, 12, 13, 35, 148 W W ADDDlNGTON, ALFRJl.:D, 317 \V es, 244, 267, 316 War of 18J2, mentioned, 71, 149 'Vebster, Daniel, 170 West, Rettlement of the, 65 'Vestern Department of the Hud- son's Bay Company, defined, 76- 8, 265 "r estern history, beginning of, 1 'Vhaling, 184, 331 'Vhitman, Presbyterian missionary, 137, 138, 187 Willamette, agriculture on the, 130; Lee on the, 137; government erected on the, 143 Willow River, gold on the, 287 \Vinnipeg, becomes centre of \Vest- tern Department, 265 'V ork, John, his expedition into the wilds of Oregon, 132; member of the Victoria board of manage- ment, 265 W rangell, Baron, 45, 120 Wyeth, American trader, 135 Y YALE, J. M., 99; in command at Fort George, ] 05 Yale, Fort, 186 INDEX Yates, Joseph, 210 Yerba Buena Cove, 127 York boats, 82 Yukon, Fort, 125 Yukon, River, descended by Camp.- bell, 124, 125 369 MAKERS OF CANADA F 5054 . M34 v. 20 AUTHOR Sir James Douglas TITLE I I H.JæR3 OF CANADA Sir James Douglas F 5054 .1--134 " v.20