BL LETIN No, 20. pate 2 (Dairy No. 19.)

; re SOS: DEPARTMENT OF OAGRICUL TURE.
a BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. o
SF ee a

THE MILK SUPPLY OF BOSTON

a8 AND OTHER NEW ENGLAND CITIES.

BY

GEORGE M. WHITAKER. M. A.

SPECIAL EXPERT AGENT, DAIRY DIVISION.

Under the direction of

ees Os AP. SALMON,
Ghief of the Bureau of Animal Industry.

WASHINGTON :
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1898.

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OF THE SOURCES OF THE
MILK SUPPLY OF THE
GREATER BOSTON.

PLACES WHERE MILK CARS START
ARE MARKED THUS ¢

THE RAILROAD OVER WHICH
MILK IS SHIPPED BY

ELM FARM COMPANY 1S MARKED >

D.WHITING 8 SONS ~~ -~/—~ “He

BOSTON DAIRY CO =-1—-~i--—- en

C.BRIGHAM COMPANY-«

HP. HOOD 8 C0 p= 10m= == ton A

a oe ee

BULLETIN No. 20. (Dairy No. 19.)

USS wibigok DMN TOP AGRICULTURE,
BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.

Pewee K SUPPLY-OF BOSTON

AND OTHER NEW ENGLAND CITIES.

BY

GEHORGE M. WHITAKER, M. A.,

SPECIAL EXPERT AGENT, DAIRY DIVISION.

Under the direction of

DD) roel) Es. SALMON,
Chief of the Bureau of Animal Industry.

WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINIING, OFFICE. .., ., . ..
1898. Pik, LENSER OG

LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL.

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,
BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY,
Washington, D. C., January 18, 1898.

Str: I have the honor to transmit herewith, for publication as a bul-
letin of this Bureau, a report on the milk supply of Boston and other
cities in the New England States, prepared under the immediate super-
vision of Maj. Henry EK. Alvord, Chief of Dairy Division, by George M.
Whitaker, M. A., special agent of that division.

Mr. Whitaker is the acting executive officer of the Massachusetts
State Dairy Bureau, and has been for some years secretary of the New
England Milk Producers’ Union. He has made the subject of city milk
supply a special study, and this report contains much information of
general interest. ies

Very respectfully, ~*~ - D. E. SALMoN,
Chief of Bureau of Animal Industry.>

Hon. JAMES WILSON,
Secretary of Agriculture.

CONTENTS.

Page.

POPE LENG BAR SOR cee Dern. Ai eens aes - aRHe oe eae te eee ES eh, J i

Milk supply: Transportation, distribution, statistics ........--..........------ 9

Boston—

QRH gone Socene ssonotlbnostedbucle dee seo NeUsEH Ont aos HaOn omc oon Bobeecce 9

(CHIIS) - Gace BBoROD GOS rE S SeOe Ee arose Doe eee ES aera hea OMs aa hee car 9

THLISU NOTE Ys Ait Pe a ees PKC ree AA caeane en we Rh te eS BAPE S 10

MVINOLeSaermennOusy vei. 2 shine cece oe ar Bee Sele elaine ee amines en se iil

them holesall erstorconurachOrsis-— ses nore eee eae eee 12

SUPT USE ES Sas, Eek Ms Pheer cr Ri Ee Oe ate gS es aR a BS 13

ttl epee rOMUC ens a WiMlOnies sce! ee ea, <p eet Ne i Uh le tks Jaa 14

IPGICESRDAlG HO VELA Veal Stas: bircin cits Sewer lh Sut Me joan seo a aes Sete 15

(SHEA VEL TAG AYS 9 OPA UGE EE ON Cec re Cre apr ee Soe ene Eee 16

GontraGhors, SUnplUS eda. Sate se kao Seance Se oes nee See 17

NSU MUNN = Phe cha Sects as SO A sree ee oe ens RR panna, Oe 2 Beene i)

Retin orc lOAMe Can Seaeects gestae Aa aise wae ae see Ste ee eee pee ate 20

Methods of producers and ship persis. 524-0 <a5 552s see eeee eee 20

BOSON SyStemssumimedhUp rece emesis bee ae esa acerca eee ae 21

Othensmillysuypppliyseseees ia sae eye aera nee Ses See Syne ar nee 22
HanOVAC ON CO wee as Oates sls Sine eee ea ee | ues ee a Salus oss no aN eae ees Z

QUICHE CRUST Sc ic Sp OR CaN ERROR ap Sa 9 etre 9 ee a eh ete PS 24.

RCRE ROA, URAC Gye eee Oe OS Stree yaaa Sees wis kode Date Sean te oS ee 25

Sara Keteees aay heats aes ss rine tik oh Le wae NSPE Oath cl ehee oe Ou eal a 26

Cormolemeal ivi hers ok Ae eh al eS RS ee eae ee Aare eae ee ere eee eget 27

MEM AecOn gM plOM PETC Dlpal oI fa. hae S seed ele Se. Qo ese cee toes aceasta eee 27

Milielawy Sian denn pspeehtOnn mont. 2- ee ee es ses FAs ee kee a se, es vacees 28

ILeyeral sueraleneG) eumndl AxChoUl ie TOM oe doe oy eos och esos ceue s2o5 ose ede oe. 28

Offcialeinsp echo ere aes ys vaties cee) Oe eee Bee ewes EL Vs oe 29

SaMiamya aS ANGI STOC MOMs. 4 ees mean Sass eee Se Sees Se eee 30

ELC UU MeOR WEES ieee tei ne et Cr ae memiees i we EER oye Lol MEK 2 fe ieee 32

Oualiitgo tml sis oldteeeens Mba s tit atlas. Abele oe See as eee aie ape se ee ee 32

Nee dtoisadwancedupiachiCes ec ise oes soos esse os sions eS csisie 2) eee ee 36

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PLATE I. Map showing the principal sources of the milk supply of the Greater

LBC UT ES 2 ae Ss oe ee Pam eet Ye Frontispiece.

Meabion Milka traimvaticibyaterminal, Boston.c-sessess. + seclss se. sess 10
2. Interior of milk-receiving sheds, city terminal.

Tries t. Milic depot.of Boston contractor... 93282 522_5 2225.5 ssc ees 28 10

2. Interior of milk-contractor’s depot, Boston.

THE MILK SUPPLY OF BOSTON AND OTHER NEW
ENGLAND CITIES.

POPULATION.

The New England States, by the census of 1890, have a population
of nearly 5,000,000 people, divided as follows:

NESS CMESELUSHMEE ETE yi water eer on eee pets oo re cas UY 2, 238, 943
Womme che ity meee ase epee sac ste Sees Sate ereiareeee sacs case 2, MEO seo
IVs epee ee ae Se ae Ee in ee Mee wee Sk SUE ae smieec ese GOLNOS
Newsom pshires)s 42 22.08 jes Soe fae iin ai Sia DASA anise eae Srey 376, 530
Fuh oder isha dieses israel sare iis a eS, Ae sels Sseielseler= 345, 506
AVG ITN OM erate sae = hte errs ieee ae ae cee eee Se atte ae chek | 332, 422

A Nos i) eat ce BB ee ee a a er pe 4, 700, 745

Massachusetts, by the State census of 1895, has a population of
2,500,183. Fifty. per cent of these people live in the cities or large
towns—those of 10,000 population or above. Forty-one per cent of the
population of New England live in cities of over 20,000 inhabitants.
Boston is the largest city and the commercial center of New England,
with a population of 496,920 (census of 1895). This one city therefore
contains 10 per cent of all the population of New England; more than
any one of the States of Rhode Island, New Hampshire, or Vermont.
But Boston is surrounded by a group of towns and cities, twenty-three
in all, which, according to the State census of 1895, have a total popu-
lation of 451,000, as follows:

Cambiid see se rete ae ee Si O00 Ae Medtorde sass: sess seen se 14, 000
1 binya woes est Se Ce ee a eae G20008 | Siliy der Bankr 2 2 c5 -sa eens eae 11, 000
Somervilless 23522 J222 ee eae ee Sen OUR SMel Ose 22s esecce sae see ae sel 2000
Whelseartis: tie usiissss <2 ees SS (0100) || SUOMONE Nees eee sscces eons easae 6, 000
INN AIO eT otee econ eile tve ses ae PU MUU at Nel haven ronan Ce ee ae 6, 000
INDO GM tice Soa Seen cie 29, 000 Belmonts)... Meeeee os as 3, 000
Wecilihiaimbems ones asa St see cles Z0KOOO SBS AU GUS 126-3 eeners ae eee os oe 4, 000
QU kel 20;000"|. Winchester toe. 2.2: 122-2225 “6,000
AWC CIES Ae Ae eet ieee 1420004). Watertowneseese o2 002. = sce 0 ee 7, 000
Broolshinesy ie ere ee ee NGSO007| Revere. eh er eee my te eee aes 7, 000
MOP Ob ieee ds fe Sek ae Be od clot Oe TSTOOO Ss Milton eee eck. sone see so ee ee Oy O00

The interests of these towns are closely allied with those of Boston,
and their business men to a large extent do business in Boston. The
business interests of this section are identical, though it includes
twenty-four separate municipalities. Consequently it is frequently

7

8

alluded to as the ‘“‘ Greater Boston.” The Greater Boston has a popu-
lation which exceeds 948,000. This is 18 per cent of the population of
New England—more than any New England State except Massachu-
setts, and more than any two of the three smaller States.

Providence is the second New England city, with a population exceed-
ing 150,000. :

Aside from the Greater Boston and Providence, no New England city,
by the census of 1890, had a population exceeding 100,000. The fol-
lowing five cities, with a total of 374,000 persons, each had a population
exceeding 50,000, but less than 100,000:

State
corsa census of
fi 1895.

New Haven; Comms dijecetiiokicsecisetew ole ieiare oie ore a sone ole rere ioe ntete Bee eee tera 86000) Raeeseeees
Worcester, Mass. 2.¢2ssao emis ces Sod See ne eee ae re ee Se I ma nee ore rh eee Oe 84, 000 98, 000
Lowell, Mass: 226 c2eoo28 said cen shies Caeser dee peter Cee oee ey Cae eee eere 77, 000 84, 000
Hall River: Masset cose toc acac seca eee pecans Stee eee eeL Cer ee ae Ee Eanes 74, 000 89, 000
Harttord, Conn, *...ssoeeescsciasnaeieceoee rose seeee meee saree piste cele cee eee 53, 000

The following nineteen cities (total, 534,000) had a population between
20,000 and 50,000, and thirty-six others had a population of from 10,000
to 20,000 each:

b State

State
Census Census
census census
of 1890. of 1895. of 1890. of 1895.
Bridgeport, Conn. -...-.-- 2 495000) sees | iBrocictony Miass\ss see ee eee 27,000} 38, 000
Manchester, N.H ..---.-. 5} 220 O00) ocsacose | Haverhill, Massie stewie. sscciee 27,000 | 30,000
Lawrence, Mass .....-..- --| 44,000 | 52,000 || Taunton, Mass .-----.-2..------- 25,000 | 27, 000
Springfield, Mass....---.-.-.-.--. 44, 000 | 51,000 |) Lewiston, Me ..-.-.2--.--.---.-- 22° 000) |Eaaeeeee
New Bedford, Mass ...-------.--- | 41,000 | 55,000 |, Fitchburg, Mass .--.-.-.--..----. 22,000 | 26, 000
Roxtland emer sae ase | 6, CO ees cos Woonsocket, Rises. soe 210000 eee
IBM ONG) MASS oesadeencsseocsess ; 35,000 | 40,600 | Gloucester, Mass .-.--..-.-------- 21,000 | 28, 000
Salem, Masseeqseseees remem ase 303/000}, 34,0009!) Meriden, | Conn == 222 -44-52-—--e 21,/0000|heeeeeese
Waterbury, Conn ..--------.----- ASE UY) Nocaee enc Weleda Colin Eu leer eteaeieisem crate eleteees 20; 0008|eeeree
Rawhucket vlan eeereeeeeeee eee Pana WW) |losenosoe

A study of the milk supply of these cities, therefore, is a study of
the milk supply of half of the population of New England. Further-
more, a consideration of the milk supply of New England must, to a
considerable extent, be devoted to the milk supply of the Greater Bos-
ton, which has 18 per cent of all the population of New England and
over one-third of the city population of that section, the remainder being
distributed among sixty-four places.

It is proper that Boston should receive almost a monopoly of atten-
tion for another reason than that of its relative size and commercial
importance. It is about the only city in New England whose supply
presents interesting and peculiar conditions.

Nearly all of the milk supply of the other cities and large towns
comes from sources within a dozen miles of the point of consumption,
and is largely distributed by producers from their own wagons. The
ordinary milk peddler is such a familiar spectacle, so similar to every
other peddler, as to make a detailed report of his work in the different

9

cities an uninteresting repetition of substantially the same methods,
conditions, and circumstances which are already well known. On the
other hand, most of the Greater Boston supply coming from more
remote distances by railroads, presents conditions peculiar to itself.

MILK SUPPLY—TRANSPORTATION, DISTRIBUTION, STATISTICS.
BOSTON.

Cars.—Three-fourths of the milk supply of the Greater Boston
reaches the city by railroad. The longest direct run is 140 miles, and
some railroad milk comes only 20 miles. Most of this milk is conveyed
in ears built for this especial purpose, with refrigerator closets for the
eans of milk and with provision for steam heat. Thus refrigeration in
summer and warming in winter are provided. Some of the cars have
an office room provided with chairs, desk, and pigeonholes for the use
of the man in charge of the car. Here he has all needed conveniences
for keeping record of the milk taken at the different stations, and
other necessary accounts.

These cars are leased from the railroads by wholesalers. These
wholesalers furnish the carmen, ice, and other supplies; the railroad
hauls the cars on passenger trains or in special milk trains, according to
convenience in individual cases. Most of the cars start in the morning,
from 4 to 6 o’clock, and reach the city between 10 and 11. In a few
instances the car starts the afternoon previous, and is on the road over
night, reaching Boston during the next forenoon. The cars, in the
summer, frequently take the milk of the same morning; some start too
early for the milk of that morning, especially in the winter, and hence
bring the milk of the previous day. Milk is therefore eighteen to thirty
hours old before reaching the city. The number of these milk cars
averages about 35, although varying somewhat with the season.

Cans.—The milk sold in Boston is shipped in 84-quart cans, with a
handle on one side and turned wooden stopples. The quart is, by stat-
ute, the wine measure quart.! No one in the trade to-day can tell why
this size and shape of cans was originally adopted. The advantages
claimed for them are: Convenience in handling, convenience in retail-
ing (as many customers buy one or two cans), convenience to many
small farmers who can fill only two or three cans per day, convenience
in transportation (as the cans can be stacked several tiers high),
cleanliness in retailing where milk is poured from the can, as it is
sooner emptied than a 40-quart can, and hence the milk is exposed to
the air and dirt a much less time.’

1One quart, wine measure, is 573 cubic inches, or 2 pounds 14 ounces of water, and
2 pounds 2? ounces of milk.

*On the other hand, there are serious objections to the Boston can. Five small
cans cost more than one large one and are more difficult and expensive to clean.
The danger of loss and damage is increased. But the worst thing about it is the
wooden stopple. Milk enters the pores of the wood and penetrates so far that no

10

For several years in the early history of the business there was in
use a can containing 85 quarts beer measure,' equal to about 10 quarts
wine measure; but it gradually dropped out of use, the smaller can
being more popular. The larger can is yet in use in Providence, R. L.,
but the 83-quart can, wine ineasure, is generally used throughout New
England. The business was formerly done by beer measure, and these
83-quart cans, wine measure, hold 7 quarts, beer measure. The agita-
tion for the change was partly based on the expectation that there
would be more money for farmers and middlemen by getting 84 quarts
into a can that had formerly contained 7 quarts. But consumers were
not slow to discover that they were getting a smaller quart, and the
attempt failed to gain the price of 14 quarts per can by the fiat that the
quart should be smaller.

A carload of milk is generally considered to be 900 cans, but the
peculiar shape, with flat-top wooden stopples, allows of stacking them
in tiers, so that in an emergency several hundred more cans can be put
into a car. By filling passageways and other open spaces aS many as
1,200 cans (10,200 quarts), or over 10 tons in weight, can be got intoa
ear. Railroad officials consider 10 tons a carload. ‘The nominal load,
however, is 900 cans (7,650 quarts).

The accompanying illustrations (Plates IJ, III) show the general
shape of the cans and illustrate the method of handling them. These
engravings present a familiar daily sight at the milk depots when the
milk trains arrive.

Historical.—Boston seems to have been the pioneer city of the United
States in the transportation of milk by railroad. The year 1830 may
be taken as the commencement in the United States of the railroad
system—the use of steam applied to locomotives. Soon after this we
find the Boston peddiers reaching out into the country for a milk
supply. Jason Chamberlain was the first man to bring milk to Boston
by railroad, and the time of his beginning was April, 1838. He oper-
ated on the Boston and Worcester Railroad. He sold milk at 25 cents
per can of 94 quarts. Mr. Chamberlain sold his business to kufus
Whiting, who is said to have been the first to start an express business
on the Boston and Worcester Railroad. He was an associate with,
and sold his business to, Mr. Harnden, the now famous express pro-
moter. This milk came by express, but in a baggage car. The first
milk car was run soon after, by a company of peddlers, between West-
boro and Boston. This was followed by the Boston Milk Company,

cleaning process is efficient. Stopples split have shown penetration for half an inch,
commonly, and sometimes more, and from these pieces germ cultures have been made
of an extremely objectionable and offensive kind, although the stopples had been
soaked, scalded, and steamed, and were supposed to be clean and harmless.
El. EarAe
1One quart, beer measure, is 70} eubic inches, or 2 pounds 8} ounces of water, and
2 pounds 10 ounces of milk.

Bulletin 20, B. A. |. PLATE ll.

Fia@. 1.—MiLK TRAIN AT CITY TERMINAL, BOSTON.

Fig. 2.—INTERIOR OF MILK-RECEIVING SHEDS, CITY TERMINAL.

Bulletin 20, B. A. |. PLATE III.

|

His Sui:
EOS

Meee es
es

Fic. 2.—INTERIOR OF MILK-CONTRACTOR’S DEPOT, BOSTON.

fa Cd
Ley

iy

ci

oa
‘ esta
‘ je

11

which ran a car to Cordaville, and by Rowell & Kelly, who took milk
from Northboro and Fayville. In April, 1843, the New England
Farmer said:

We have learned that one man brings in upon the Worcester Railroad about
200,000 gallons annually. This is supposed to be about one-tenth of all that is sold
in the city. Two millions of gallons per year is the estimated amount of consum))-
tionin Boston. This, at 20 cents per gallon, costs the citizens $400,000 per year, and,
supposing the population to be 100,000, this gives to each inhabitant yearly 20 gal-
lons, or a small fraction less than half a pint per day. The dwellers in the city of
“notions” have a notion that they pay the farmers a good price for milk. Five or
6 cents per quart is usually given. This pays the farmers of the immediate vicinity
as well as they get paid for most of their productions. But can those farmers live
who sell milk at their doors at 10 cents per gallon in the summer and 12 cents
in the winter, or at an average of 11 cents? Many such farmers there are, and some
sell at lower rates than this, and yet the milk dealer gets no more than a fair com-
pensation for his labors, expenses, and risks.

An article from the Albany Cultivator, reprinted in the New England
Farmer September 6, 1843, said:

A brighter day is dawning on the dwellers in cities so far as milk is concerned, and
the venders of swill slop, cold water, and artificial milks are finding their business
seriously endangered. This is being brought about by the influence of railroads,
which, spreading a network over the country and centering in the cities, bring the
farmers and dairymen residing within 50 miles of the city within a few hours, and
enable them to offer their products in the best possible condition for competition.
This effect was first extensively felt in Boston in the reduction of the price and the
bettering of the quality of milk, though that city had never been forced to use
such scandalous stuff as was sold in other places for milk. At the present time a
large portion of the milk used in that city is received by the railroads from country
dairymen. The same beneficial effects are beginning to be felt in New York.

At one time two cars were loaded daily at Westboro, some farmers
driving 15 miles daily to the railroad station with their supplies.
Although milk consumption has increased and the milk territory has
extended wonderfully since then, the shipments from this station have
decreased. The growth of neighboring towns has caused more milk to
be used near where it is produced.

The railroad business above noticed developed on the Boston and
Worcester Railroad, entering the city on the south side. Meanwhile,
however, similar enterprises had been undertaken on the north side of
the city. Peddlers had gone out to Concord, Mass., and other places
for milk and supplies.

T. W. Wellington, of Newton, was the first to buy milk in Wilton,
N.H., for the Boston market. For about a year Mr. Wellington con-
tinued in the business, taking less than 200 gallons per day in a baggage
car. Mr. Wellington sold to David L. Pierce, a retail milk dealer in
Boston, who increased the business so that a special milk car was nec-
essary. After continuing in the business for three or four years he sold
to David Whiting, in the spring of 1857.

Present wholesale methods.—These early shipments of milk were made

eZ,

by peddlers who brought into the city the milk which they needed for
their retail trade. But as the business increased there happened what
has taken place in every other industry—specialization. Handling
milk at wholesale became a distinct business from retailing, and the
men who brought in railroad milk came in time to devote the whole of
their energy and capital to buying milk of the farmers, transporting
it, and selling to retailers.

Various changes have taken place in the personnel of these firms of
pioneer peddlers and subsequent wholesalers, but many of the names
early identified with the business are stillin use. Consolidations have
also taken place, till to-day the business of transporting milk to the city
by railroad is done by seven concerns. Six of these seven milk whole-
saling houses have an association for bringing about uniformity in
methods of doing business and for mutual self-protection. To-day fully
three-quarters of the milk supply of the Greater Boston passes through
the hands of these large wholesalers, locally known as “contractors.”

These contractors furnish the cans for the business and lease the cars
of the railroads. They furnish men and supplies for the cars. In some
cases they have loading platforms at shipping stations. At a number
of convenient points in the country they have ice houses and cut their
own supply of ice. In the city they have platforms, storehouses, refrig-
erators, offices, etc., near the railroad tracks; and their cars on reach-
ing the city are switched onto the side tracks at their business depots.
The loading and unloading is done by the contractors.

All of the contractors have cheese or butter factories in the city or
country, or both, for the manufacture of butter and cheese.

The milk is bought in the country at a price for the milk delivered at
the car at the different country railroad stations. In some instances
each farmer carries his milk to the railroad station; in others the farm-
ers in one neighborhood or in one locality cooperate in an arrangement
with one of their number to do the teaming; in yet other instances the
contractors employ someone to haul milk from the farmers’ doors to
the railroad station, and deduct the expense from the amount due the
farmers for milk. Milk is frequently drawn 6 miles to a railroad sta-
tion, and in some cases as far as 10 to 15 miles.

The wholesalers or contractors.—The various companies and individ-
uals above alluded to as carrying milk on the Boston and Worcester
Railroad, on the south side of the city, consolidated into the firm of C.
Brigham & Co. to do a strictly wholesale business. This company
later became incorporated as The C. Brigham Company, and is yet in
the business.

Mr. David Whiting, who bought the business of Mr. Wellington, as
noticed above, was a large and successful farmer. Although driven
into the business to protect his interests, the traits of character which ~
brought success in other enterprises made him successful as a milk
wholesaler. In 1865 he associated with him his sons, George O. and

13

Harvey A., under the firm name of D. Whiting & Sons. The business
is continued to-day under the same name, two of Mr. Whiting’s grand-
sons being among the executive officers.

Mr. H. P. Hood began in the milk business in Boston, as a peddler, in
1846. For nine years he bought milk of contractors, but in 1855 he
began running a car on his own account from Derry, N. H., to which
place he moved. He has been in the wholesale milk business ever since,
and has increased the business from one to eight cars. His sons are
now associated with him in the management of the business.

The Boston Dairy Company is the newest of the larger companies; it
is the consolidation of several interests, and is a continuation of the
long-established business of Tower & Whitcomb. Mr. W. A. Graustein
is the executive head.

The Elm Farm Company was started by a wealthy farmer-manufacturer,
Mr. Ray, of Franklin, Mass., as a means of marketing his own milk inde-
pendent of the regular contractors; but he soon commenced buying
milk of his farmer neighbors, and the business extended until the com-
pany confined itself to a wholesale business.

Mr. J. F. French brings one carload per day into the city, and has
done so for several years.

These are the component elements of the contractors’ association.

In addition, one car of milk per day is brought into the city by the
Deerfoot Farm Company of Southboro, Mass., much of which is -sold
direct by themselves to the consumers. The Deerfoot Farm Company
was started by Hon. Edward Burnett to furnish high-grade Jersey milk
to patrons able and willing to pay a corresponding price, but latterly
the business has increased so as to include, in addition to the above, a
general wholesale trade. Mr. Robert Burnett is the executive manager.

Mr. George O. Whiting, the executive head of D. Whiting & Sons,
owns a controlling interest in the C. Brigham Company and in the Elm
Farm Company. He is a man of much executive energy, and is known
as “the milk king of New England.”

Statistics—The members of the Milk Contractors’ Association report
monthly to each other their receipts and sales, and have done so for
years, so that much valuable information has accumulated in connec-
tion with the business. These figures are not absolutely infallible for
purposes of comparison, because the association has occasionally taken
in new members, whose receipts and sales are then added to those of
the others. But those persons to whom such statistics are serviceable
can make some allowance for this and find much value in the figures.

14

.

We give below some recent tables on this subject, the figures repre-

senting the number of 84-quart cans:

Year Receipts. Sales. | Surplus.
1892, 2 oe jacajes aha wateltase SResege BA inte SSE ae ei: ee a ene 9,212) 667 |) 7, 315,135) |<.
NCU) SB ee eeatosnipnosseosocecscamedae toodec bacon nec oboccudsoosesc- 9,263, 487 | 7,619,722 | 1, 643, 765
Iti OUR ei Oe oe tei DE UL LAE ee ee a eae Le Nee ee 9,705,447 | 7,657,421 | 2, 048, 026
IRBE Res oqucdeacdseeceabo cou sane conoccscssugos acess nbocsoas 9,856,500 | 8,040,732 | 1, 815, 768
1896
JEMITENA acogobndnodocanoas bosnod be As oabnodonoGonsasteodantodsebese 844, 709 651, 827 192, 882
ING| TERA coon coocsoso csp aacd pose sogaSesSes soccer ossaoDSsesos0aroeS 808, 383 611, 793 196, 590
WIEVWOl Ne \jemscmsacotpd=Seaqsocen ssus2sscebsuee aeacoooesssccndboane 871, 572 657, 039 214, 534
opel ees Sia a OS ee ee lettn ACL ene nnd Se 891, 275 672, 561 218, 714
Malye. S028 SB Ue Sele age rett niece he ates site ere teste 2 he re Ie a ere pete et 1, 005, 115 696, 599 308, 516
SBT st A ae SI ae hh aS Lt ac 994, 817 675, 796 319, 021
Owl Scan eds soocdona nose ae anes: aoogcu SoS euusc ess adoodoosHecoRoGDSs 899, 397 712, 188 187, 209
ANMEDHG csi endsancnocussacserposec seactusoucrecodssctuoeduerseoeee 854, 913 687, 224 167, 689
September 866, 691 635, 092 231, 599
October =--:------<- 960, 734 699, 245 261, 489
November..-..------ 885, 903 690, 920 194, 983
DOCEM DCTs <back eee dcroe Satin eee eae Bian Ric ele eee a Sroreie Siete ere arevebepeie ae 898, 599 707, 095 191, 504
Mo tale wit aia: Rees eee an eel nee een ak, MN ee ene Sed 10, 782,108 | 8,097,379 | 2, 684, 730
1897
DaRTERA V6 ond candadoaD ano gotooe see ooo sok Sconeo Sno ONsoaBeooNSoesSs 923, 852 705, 324 218, 528
JIG HDENA (atecece cen apes Ams oeeine ce por ano aA otinsononGoduodessece 835, 115 639, 952 195, 163
March pjaaue HeaaonS SNe Se one CcQuED Hesasu aspeSaseSorasegecobasasesc 960, 084 719, 814 240, 270
JN WMIls Beso cosas sooner soé seoosesesScoceo ess onenonseoSoousaraccce 976, 996 733, 298 243, 698
WEIN o sosne = ses ssodaossso> 22 ce soe es ooeasd ase season sesczbecscDenaas 1, 105, 325 759, 875 345, 450
SILLS ate oe ee Ad cae SOCAN ARE A Cian gh cheer EN ULB Es A EL See, 1, 115, 234 752, 038 363, 196
OUD) 2 eaen Ss ccob ds ence soecocssocodwes sac 36 ance sotdasaoesorsaqegse> 1, 018, 552 789, 849 223, 703
ANGIE, Gubdodeosdnbossondeescnd sos 96405 shoseaddsekaaosousoussdes 966, 058 720, 3874 245, 684
SIGNING 5 so ebeinssooonss sSes0ne sores sodmoassquas soe 22eeescoReSeC 956, 445 732, 795 223, 650
(OYGI@IG 8 secodoodocseU aoouccocause SeouD obo oSsLoaseudonbUSdescucHesec 1, 037, 764 751, 944 285, 820
INDWOMG?E Sacco oso Goer os dddana soap noseoccodosseéodcossouosshos 962, 552 708, 459 254, 093
IDECEMN Nee Sa Sa acooso cope nppocUnoUO DUO DsocCoo Gon goDOOwOuEoDEboDOSS 945, 254 724, 850 220, 364
MD Otek ee ees tsa ene ato ee act aoe Na wat sy oealene eee 11,798,231 | 8,738,572 | 3,059, 619

Milk Producers’ Union.—Before going on to speak further about the
prices of milk and some of the detailed methods of handling it which
are peculiar to Boston, a word should be spoken about the Milk Pro-
ducers’ Union. This is an organization of the farmers who sell milk
to the contractors. The farmers of the several shipping towns form a
local organization and send delegates to an annual meeting of the
central union, which elects executive officers and transacts other neces-
sary business. The organization has been in existence in one form or
another since 1886. The work of the union, which has been supple-
mented by that of the association of wholesalers, who regulate the
business from their end, has been to promote uniformity and business-
like methods. The tabulation and publication of the above statistics
were brought about through the combined efforts of the Milk Producers’
Union and the Milk Contractors’ Association. The prices of milk are
usually arranged by mutual agreement between the contractors and
the officers of the Milk Producers’ Union. Blanks are sent semi-
annually to the producers belonging to the union, on which they
express their opinion as to the price of milk and state the number of
cans shipped. These replies are averaged on the basis of cans rather

15

than individuals; and the negotiations between the contractors and
the union are based upon this expression of opinion.

The union has the machinery in its constitution for ordering a strike,
so to speak, in case of an emergency. Two or three times in the history
of the union a rupture of this kind has seemed imminent, but it has been
averted for the best interests of all, usually by mutual concessions, so
that the farmers have gained directly by having an organization. They
also feel that they have gained some unfought battles, and believe that
they have generally been treated better by the contractors, by reason
of having an association, than they would have been if the contractors
were dealing with individuals, or simply issued an ultimatum of what
they would pay for milk without their authority being questioned. At
times some farmers have been dissatisfied with the work of the union
because it was not more radical and sweeping, but in the main the more
conservative farmers feel that it has been of great service tothem. The
existence of such an organization has tended to promote uniformity
in prices, and there has been little variation in prices for a number of
years.

Prices paid.— As milk is shipped from stations of varying distances
from the city, the following arrangement has been made as a convenient
method for determining a price for each station. It has been agreed
between the contractors and the Milk Producers’ Union that all nego-
tiations should be for a theoretical Boston price per can, and that there
should be the following discounts from that price:

Cents
For stations between 17 and 23 miles from Boston..-.-.--.-.---------------------- 8
For stations between 23 and 36 miles from Boston....-...----.------------------ 9
For stations between 36 and 56 miles from Boston......-.------------------------ 10
For stations between 56 and 76 miles from Boston........-.--------------------- ll

And 1 cent more for each additional 20 miles.

The price is adjusted twice a year for the six months beginning April
1 and October 1. The theoretical Boston price per can of 8$ quarts for
a number of years has been as follows:

| | |
Year. |Summer.' Winter. | Year. Summer. Winter.
Cents. | Cents. | Cents. | Cents.
HOBGEsechiaccucidsldadeste este 30 SG iietCdat se Lee es gased.< Soaecdeses 33 | 37
SRT eee tens. Seas Seid = Saelacind 30 | SER oO see ose tas eee 33 | 37
LOGI Bes OeS Sees eee mee ete 32 | sai}t dkey WO) Ses ME BOpeccme Sort 33 | 37
TREE) sco Se 32 | B8 | 1896... ee ee eee 33 | 35
MSSM a aea\s 2 aekhice eee sine s=- 25 32 | SOP MLO Seer & tics Saale Soninalee erere 30 | 35
TEED DD ey oe eee 3 37 |i — a
SSD Races teces ee emishs ages bes 33 37 Average (12 years) ---.| 321) 302
; |

In 1874-75 the winter price per can was 40 cents, the summer price
32 cents; difference, 8 cents. For several of the years included in the
above table there was a difference of 6 cents between the summer and
the winter prices. In 1890 and 1891 the summer price advanced and
the winter price declined, and for four years thereafter there was a dif
ference of 4 cents per can between summer and winter milk, In Octo-

16 :

ber, 1896, the winter price was cut again, leaving the difference only 2
cents. The increasing attention given to winter dairying has brought
the supply of winter milk nearer to that of summer milk, and made
advisable, so the contractors claim, less disparity in price.

The increase of winter dairying has been caused not only by the
increased profit ini winter milk, but to a certain extent, in market gar-
dening sections, by the desire of farmers who produce milk to carry
more cows in the winter in order to get manure for their garden crops.

Payments to the farmers for milk sold to the contractors are made
monthly, as soon after the 1st of the month as the clerical work of
closing the accounts and drawing checks can be done.

According to the agreement alluded to, the payment per can of milk
which the farmer would receive at his railroad station would be the
theoretical Boston price less 8, 9, 10, or 11 cents, depending upon his
distance from the city. Theamount of milk handled by the contractors
is So large that these prices govern to a considerable extent the deal-
ings of many milkmen in other places.

When this arrangement was first considered, it was expected that the
theoretical Boston price would be the figure at which milk would be
sold to the peddlers, and that the discount would therefore represent
cost of transportation, cost of doing the business, losses from bad bills,
and profits; but competition of one kind and another has reduced the
price to the peddlers so that they now pay 3 and 4 cents less than the
nominal Boston price, and it has become wholly a theoretical figure,
used and useful only as a number from which to subtract the various
discounts depending upon distance of transportation. The expenses
of doing the business and the profits to the contractors are therefore
from 4 to 7 cents per can.

Milk was sold by the contractors to peddlers during the summer of
1897 at 30 cents per can, with rumors of cutting prices to 29 and even
28 cents. Milk is sold by the peddlers at varying prices. Hotels and
large restaurants buy close and allow only 2 or 3 cents for handling;
they bought during 1897 at 32 to 35 cents per can. Small stores, which
retail by the quart the contents of only a few cans, pay 38 to 40 cents
per can. Consumers of a can daily pay 45 and 50 cents, and those
who have a quart of milk delivered at their houses daily by the milk-
man pay 7 cents per quart. Sometimes pint customers pay at the
rate of 8 cents per quart. By going to the store for it, consumers fre-
quently buy as low as 6 cents, and in some instances for 5. Milk ina
few cases seems to be selected by grocers and provision dealers as an
article to sell at cost or a little less as a bid for other business.

Grading the price.-—One of the peculiarities of the way in which the
Boston milk business is carried on by the contractors is what is called
“orading the price.” To illustrate: The contractors agree to pay at
stations situated a certain distance from Boston 24 cents per can for
the summer—that is, from April to October, But they do not pay 24

1a

cents for each and every month; instead of that, they pay a price which
will average 24 cents. During the flush months of May and June the
price may be perhaps 22 cents, and to offset that cut the price will be
increased to 26 cents during the sultry months of August and Septem-
ber, when milk is sometimes scarce. This “grading” has a tendency
to discourage exceptionally large shipments during months when the
supply would naturally be the largest. It also stimulates production
during the months when the supply might otherwise be short. When
the price has been agreed upon, the contractors send to each station a
card similar to the following:

(For railroad stations in the towns of Chelmsford and Sudbury, summer of 1897.)

The graded price of milk per can of eight and one-half quarts, delivered in good
order, with dairy number plainly marked on stopper with stickers, and up to the
standard required by law, in the car, for the following six months, from April 1,
1897, will be:

Cents. Cents
PADD Rigs eee ereysey ans lee acins Seerajeicte tac AN i MU eR ei ete cee icia a ae el cane See 24
1 ENS se ee ee eR Se 22g WANUSUS Ue oe <c.mia ss seis = Seyeais se cee 26
RUA Pereira ise ec oi oreo celed tase ani 225) SOpbLeMer a= ecm eciicos oace Sa ceee 26

Average, 24 cents.

In case the amount of milk received by the contractors and not sold for use as
mill shall exceed 5 per cent of the entire sales of the month, then for said excess
over and above the 5 per cent the contractors shall pay only what said excess is
worth for butter, taking the average price of butter for the month; and the value
of the surplus milk, manufactured into butter, shall be determined by a committee of
farmers and contractors.

MILK CANS.

Milk cans are the property of the persons or company whose name is stamped
upon them. The ownership is absolute. The legislature has passed a law which
makes it a criminal offense, punishable by fine and imprisonment, to retain or make
use of a milk can for any purpose whatever without the consent of the contractor
or owner. (See chapter 440, Acts of 1893.)

Contractors’ surplus milk.—As stated above, the contractors and the
Producers’ Union agree upon a price for six months in advance. In
doing this the purchasing contractors seem to be taking some chances,
for they can not foresee the demand. Particularly is this the case in the
summer, for then the demand depends much on the weather, as a hot,
sultry “spell” causes the consumption of milk to increase rapidly.
Further than this, the contractors appear to take large chances in
another way. They agree to take all the milk that the farmers supply-
ing them with milk at the various shipping stations may produce.
This leads to receipts largely in excess of the demand, as has been seen
by the preceding tables of receipts and sales; the excess sometimes
reaches one-fourth of the receipts. The contractors save themselves
from loss by an arrangement by which the stipulated price is paid for
only such milk as is sold again and for a small margin in excess (equal
to 5 per cent of the sales; see above card). All surplus beyond thisis
made into butter by the contractors, at their creameries, on the farmers’

14777—No. 20 2

18

account, allowing each month, as the value of the butter, the average
of the jobbing price of butter quoted by the chamber of commerce dur-
ing the month and charging 4 cents per pound for making. Thus the
farmer is sure of getting at least butter value for all the milk he can
make. To protect the farmers from an undue extension of this surplus
privilege, the contractors agree not to extend their routes or enlarge
their territory. The advantages of this surplus system are:

(1) The market is more steady than it would otherwise be. The fig-
ures above show that the price has been very uniform for many years.
The surplus, being in the hands of the large dealers, does not get upon |
the market, and the supply offered to the retail trade by the contractors
is never in excess of the demand.

(2) The contractors have a large reservoir to draw from when sultry
summer weather or other cause increases the demand; hence the market
is never short of milk.

(3) The farmers find a market for more milk than they otherwise
would, though the surplus portion is sold at much less than the other
part. The butter value of the surplus milk for the year 1896, less the
cost of making, was 13 cents per can, a fraction over 71 cents per hun-
dred pounds. Tor 1897 the butter value of a can of milk averaged 134
cents, a little better than for 1896.

The disadvantage of the system is that it is the cause of much fric-
tion between the producers and the contractors. The surplus offers a
good opportunity to increase the farmers’ natural suspicion of the con-
tractors. The application of the system is blind to many farmers, some
of whom even question the honesty of the contractors in accounting for
the amount of the surplus. This difference is further intensified by
the method of settling with the farmers. The contractors, for their
convenience, ascertain how much of a discount the butter value of the
surplus would create on the whole amount of milk which a farmer ships,
and in making their payment they deduct this amount from what
would be due if all milk shipped had been sold at the long price.
Hence the monthly bills are not written for the proportionate amount
of sale milk at, for instance, 20 cents, plus the proportionate amount of
surplus milk at, for instance, 13 cents; but, it having been found that
the amount of surplus milk and its butter value is enough to reduce
the average price of milk at a 20-cent station 15 cents, when the farmer
makes out his bill for his full shipment at 20 cents per can the con-
tractors discount the bill 14 cents per can and remit the balance.

The surplus for May, 1897—the butter value of milk being 11 cents
per can—amounted to an average discount per can on all shipments as
follows:

Cents.
Where ipricetwas:19centss 52% Seen ee ens oreo ie tars ae eee ae ea ashe Soe 2. 26
Where price twas 20 cents: 2:1 <5 sees ae pny eee te Se ek ee head eek
Where-price was 2 cents? 2ss2.. eee an etna oR ee ee ee ee eee 2. 82
Wierel price was i202 cembsnesca o . Saepe etc e eee eet ee ee 3. 11

Where price was 23icemtss\\io2 2. < et Ae e e Sre 3.09

19

In this way the contractors’ clerks can figure the accounts quite
rapidly ; but the method increases the dissatisfaction with the system,
because to the mind of the farmer the butter value of surplus milk cre-
ates an actual discount or a “charge back” on the whoie of his bill.

This system of buying all the milk that is offered furnishes shippers
a market for all they can produce, but this in turn tends to increase
the surplus, which reached unusual proportions during the years 1896
and 1897. This, coupled with the low price of butter, made the dis-
count for those years more than twice what it had previously been.
The records of milk meetings and farmers’ gatherings show that the
surplus is the great cause of dissatisfaction, the burden of many reso-
lutions and speeches being that the contractors should buy “straight.”
The contractors have sometimes agreed to take all chances of surplus
and pay a straight price if they could buy for 2 cents less. Before this
system was introduced there was much complaint at the irregularity
of the amount sold to the contractors. If the supply ran ahead of the
demand, the farmers would receive notice to keep back part of their
supplies; and they were liable to be obliged to make butter or cheese
in varying quantities every few days. This was a great inconvenience
and caused much grumbling, which was remedied by the contractors
adopting the present plan, taking all produced and paying butter price
for the surplus. But that was so many years ago that the improvement
is not generally remembered. The feeling against the surplus was so
strong in 1889 that the matter was referred to the State board of arbi-
tration, which decided that the principle was a sound one.

It should be stated here that the different wholesale firms report
their receipts, sales, and surplus to their organization and to the Milk-
Producers’ Union, and the discount is figured on the totals, being the

same to all farmers at equal distances from the city, regardless of the
contractors to whom they sell or the amount of surplus which their
individual wholesaler may have had.

Retailing.—On the arrival of the milk cars in Boston ee are run
onto the railroad sidings of the milk contractors from 9 to 11 o’clock
a. m., regardless of the distance the cars have come. The peddlers by
this time have finished their morning’s distribution of milk and their
wagons are backed to the contractors’ platforms and sheds for the next
day’s supply. The cans are quickly transferred from the cars to the
peddlers’ wagons. Ina few cases, where there are customers for several
cans, a delivery is made at once, but most of this milk is carried to the
different peddlers’ headquarters. Here the milk isrun through a large
mixer, so as to insure uniform quality. Then it is drawn off into quart
and pint cans, of tin,and placed on ice. The next morning about 2
o’clock the peddler starts out to deliver this milk to the customer, leav-.
ing at the door of tenement, flat, and dwelling house the can of milk,
usually before the family is out of bed. By this it will be seen that the
milk is in the city about eighteen hours before reaching the consumer.

20

It will also be noticed that the milk is delivered in individual cans,
never poured or dipped from the large can to the consumer’s dish.
According to the milk inspector of the municipality of Boston, the
number of persons selling milk from wagons during 1896 was 598, and
the number of shopkeepers who sold milk was 1,019. In Cambridge
there were 189 peddlers and 111 store milk dealers. The numbers
remained practically the same in 1897. Nearly all of the peddlers
use wagons of the same style—the body like an express wagon, with a
rounded canopy top, open at the front and rear.

Olean cans.—When the retailers go to the wholesalers’ depots for
their daily supplies they usually take with them return cans, belonging
to the wholesalers, in which they have taken their supplies on a pre-
vious day. These cans are immediately rushed on board the cars, so
that the latter may be ready with as little delay as possible to be drawn
out and made up in the trains for returning. On account of this pro-
cedure the cans are returned to the farmers unwashed, and sometimes
in a very filthy condition, for a can may have been delivered by the
peddler to a grocer where a portion of the contents which was unsold has
soured and stuck to the bottom and sides of the can before the peddler
calls for it to return to the wholesaler; in exceptional cases the can
may have been used for other articles, possibly kerosene oil. The
farmers have frequently consulted together as to the best means of
bringing some pressure to bear on the contractors to compel them to
return clean cans. This feeling has gone so far as to result in several
attempts to induce the legislature to pass compulsory laws on the
subject.

The contractors make two excuses for this way of doing business.
The first is the matter of expense; they claim that to have the cans
washed before returning would mean the impossibility of getting them
onto the car that day, and the necessity of having a large investment
of money tied up in a triplicate set of cans. The second excuse is -
that even if they washed the cans, after having been tightly bunged up
in the car and on the road for several hours, they would be unfit for use
in reshipping milk without being scalded. The contractors claim that
if the cans are sent into the country clean many farmers will neglect
this precaution, and that the next day’s milk would reach the city in
worse condition than when the cans are carefully cleaned, scalded, and
aired at the dairy before putting fresh milk into them.

Methods of producers and shippers.—The methods pursued by the milk-
producing farmers who supply the contractors may be described more
in detail, as follows:

For example, a neighborhood may be taken in Windsor or Windbam
County, Vt., from which the milk is hauled by wagon to lesan Falls
and there pit on the milk ear.

The process by which the milk is prepared for marketing is simple,
though it requires care and attention to preserve an equal temperature.

21

The morning’s milk is cooled by various methods, some employing ice,
while not a few suspend the cans ina well. When the night’s milk has
been cooled, a wood stopper is placed in the full can, upon which is
pasted a small adhesive stamp a trifle smaller than a postage stamp,
and on this is printed the number of the dairy, as well as the number
of the car conveying the milk from Bellows Falls to Boston.

As arule neighboring dairymen have an arrangement by which one
of their number takes the daily product to the main highway, where
the cans are picked up every night by the milk wagon and the “ emp-
ties” returned by the same conveyance in the morning. In some cases,
however, the farmer lives 3 or 4 miles oif the route, and of course is
obliged a bring his own milk.

One route starts from Chester, Windsor County, the distance from
the driver’s house to Bellows Falls being 16 miles. This driver receives
3 cents per can of 85 quarts (or 184 pounds) for carting, and this is, of
course, paid by the farmer. With a four-horse covered wagon, this
collector starts from his home every night in the week at 9 o’clock,
going by the most direct road to Rockingham, thence to Bellows Falls.
At present this route furnishes 180 cans, which are picked up in differ-
ent places along the highway to Bartonville. It takes about six hours
to make the trip, which could be done in considerably less time but for
the work of picking up the cans. The route is not particularly pleasant
by night, and especially is this true in stormy weather, yet for the 365
nights in the year this driver faithfully performs his duty, whether in
storm or starlight. The trip is not infrequently attended with disa-
ereeable and even dangerous features, as was the case during the floods
of 1897, when the highway was washed out in several places, necessi-
tating a roundabout trip of several miles through Saxtons River. But
the milk was delivered every morning at the car before the time of
leaving Bellows Falls for Boston.

On arriving at the car the milk is weighed by those in charge and
the weights credited to the numbers representing the respective dairy-
men. The milk car starts daily at 5.30 a. m. and reaches Boston about
four hours later, and twenty-eight or twenty-nine hours after the morn-
ing milking of the day before. Since the establishment of this route,
in the year 1890, the business gradually increased until June, 1897,
when the shipments amounted to nearly 700 cans a day.

Boston system summed up.—The advantage of this system of handling
milk by large wholesalers, combined into an association, is that the
business is in the hands of solvent parties, who can be relied upon to
pay the farmers promptly the money due them; the business is done in
a uniform, methodical way, all producers being treated alike; there is
more publicity to the business than there would be if the milk were
sold to a great many small, isolated peddlers. The existing Boston
system maintains a more steady market than would otherwise be possi-
ble, by keeping off from it an undue surplus which would break the

22

price; consequently this arrangement insures better prices to farmers
than they would otherwise get. Another advantage is in the fact that
this large combination of wholesalers doing business in a systematic
way, with regular chemists, etc., is a powerful factor in elevating the
quality of milk on the market and helping to bring it up to a satisfac- -
tory standard. With good laws to start with, to which reference will
be made further on, and a strong financial interest working to sustain
these laws, a great deal is done for the quality of milk. -

There are disadvantages connected with the Boston system, some of
which have been sufficiently described. Another is that it does not
stimulate any advance in quality of milk beyond meeting the standard
required by law.

Other milk supply.—lt has already been stated that the milk brought
into the city by the contractors is about three-quarters of the whole sup-
ply. A portion of the other one-fourth comes in by railroad, brought
by peddlers who go into the country and buy direct from the farmers.
These peddlers usually buy on the basis of the contractors’ prices, for
these prices set the pace for about all of the milk business, and, to a
large extent, govern it. But these peddlers buy only what their ordi-
nary trade willtake. If they occasionally need extra milk they can buy
it of the contractors. Though these peddlers pay no more than the
regular price, the farmer gets the full price for all that he sells, because
the peddler whom he supplies never has a surplus for which to pay a
lower price. On the other hand, the more of such business there is the
more the surplus tends to increase in the hands of the contractors.
Their burdensome surplus is a convenience in a pinch to the outside
peddler, who competes with them for milk and for customers, but who
carries none of the inconvenience of a surplus.

Another portion of the milk of the Greater Boston is produced
within its limits. This is not much of a factor in the city proper, but
the geographical and business reasons which lead to the grouping of
several municipalities as the Greater Boston necessarily include a few
places which produce nearly all of their local milk supply. In one or two
instances—Milton especially—the place supplies milk to some of its
neighbors. Over 7,000 cows are kept in the Greater Boston, located as
follows:

IBOStomavee oS sot ee veer 850 | Malden 32-25 - cee esta see a 169
Chelsea 42 at 3520). SS eee ieee 8i-| Meditord S-. 20 s225 eae eee nee 282
Reveressie 262s Sst a ae ee 168) Melnosee es sa52 ese ee oes 214
Wanthrop : 55 2th sae) 42225 see eee S30) PNe wibOminne-t = ase es bane ote oe eerie 1, 212
QininGy soci Stee sae ee GSR mS omervalley esate ee reas 314
Milgon. Seep eee ee ee S04) Stoneham) --~ ose =e eee 311
Winchester 25) cseeeke oe ee eee 240 | Arlin ston 20). 22a soem eee 236
Woburn 222 Sess see eee 362 i) Belmont: tse. = 2 aan eo ae eee 173
Watertown : 2 Sy ocee os 22. el ee 28 Li SAUPUS siecle 2 eel ae eee ee ee 544
IWrailltinam 2ie2 2 pe She ele eee ae 882: sluymin. 22 2 eee ae ee 342

A third source of supply of outside milk is from territory contiguous
to the Greater Boston, which can be reached by a drive of 10 to 15

23

miles. This region is quite thickly settled, and consumes considerable
milk, yet it also produces much milk to sell in Boston, which is brought
in by wagons. The inspector of the city of Boston reports 5,232 cans
sold daily in his jurisdiction, aside from the railroad milk. The milk
in other cities and towns of the Greater Boston not brought by rail
must be 5,000cans more. Two of the largest towns for milk shipments
by team are Dedham and Bedford, from each of which nearly 1,000
cans are daily hauled.

This nearby milk, although only about one-fourth of the city supply,
has shown a tendency to increase of late; its competition with railroad
milk was unusually severe during the last few months of 1897. This
has been because milk has been maintained at such an even price,
because there has been an unusual disparity between the sale-milk
value and the butter value of the product, and because prices of other
farm products were so depressed that miik was relatively the most
profitable farm product, in very many cases.

PROVIDENCE.

Providence, the second in size of the New England cities, has an
estimated population of 150,000. The best estimates obtainable place
the milk consumption at 75,000 quarts per day. This amounts to
27,375,000 quarts per year. This milk is sold from 407 peddlers’ wagons
and 900 stores, restaurants, bakeries, ete. Nearly all of the milk is
produced within 20 miles of the city. Most of the milk that is brought
in Wagons comes an average distance of 12 miles, though a little comes
20 miles each day. The balance is carried byrailroad. Onecar brings
in 9,500 quarts per day. This car starts from Willimantic, Conn., a
distance of 60 miles. About 4,000 quarts per day are carried on the
other railroads in express and baggage cars. The milk is shipped, for
the most part, in cans similar in general style to the Boston milk can,
but containing 9$ and 104 quarts.

The selling of milk from stores is more prevalent than in many other
cities of New England. It is estimated that almost half of the milk
consumed in this city is sold from stores instead of being delivered
from house to house by peddlers. Most of the railroad milk goes
directly to stores.

The price of milk for the last few years has been quite uniform, con-
Sumers paying usually a cent less in the summer than in the winter.
The retail summer price ranges from 5 to 7 cents and the winter price
from 6 to 8 cents. The wholesale price per can in the summer is at the
rate of 15 or 16 cents per gallon, and 19 or 20 cents per gallon in the
winter. About one-third of the nearby milk is sold by the producers
themselves, who drive into the city every morning with their supplies,
retailing from house to house. About two-thirds of the nearby milk is
sold by peddlers who buy milk from the farmers. Some of them buy
from middlemen, who pick up milk from the farmers and haul it to the
city. In these cases the peddlers do not see or know the men who

24

produce the milk for them. These middlemen, however, differ from
those in Boston in that they occupy a much less conspicuous place in
the business than the Boston contractors and are hardly more than
agents and teamsters for the city peddlers.

The producers receive 11 to 12 cents per gallon for milk in the sum-
mer, and 15 or 16 cents in the winter.

The population of Providence has increased from 120,000, in 1886, to
150,000 in 1896, or 25 per cent; but the consumption of milk appears to
have increased about 122 per cent, only 33,700 quarts per day being
reported in 1886. These figures show that there has been greatly
increased consumption of milk per capita during the last few years.

Milk is from twelve to forty-eight hours old when it reaches the
consumers in Providence. )

OTHER CITIES.

The reports from the other New England cities are, for the most part,
without novel features. To go into the details about each city would be
mere repetition, to a large extent. The milk generally is brought into
the city early in the morning by retailers who are, for the most part, pro-
ducers. In some instances peddlers buy the supplies of farmers and act
only as middlemen. In other cases the farmer supplements his own
supply by buying from his neighbors. The milk is mostly produced
within a dozen or fifteen miles of the city where it is consumed. The
night’s milk is not over 12 hours old when it reaches the consumers;
the morning’s milk not over 6. Consequently less pains are taken in
cooling and caring for the milk than when it becomes 48 to 72 hours old
before reaching the consumer. Six cents per quart is the average price
to consumers. In some cities the price drops to 5 cents in the summer,
and in a few instances 7 cents is reached in the winter.

The usual method of distributing milk is by pouring from the 83-quart
cans into the individual cans, pitchers, or bowls of customers at their
doors, although some peddlers carry individual cans. The use of glass
bottles is comparatively rare, though increasing. In many cities -
the old-fashioned wagons are giving way to vehicles built low-down
expressly for the milk business. In many cases farmers who sell milk
pay some attention to vegetables and small fruits, which utilizes help,
insures an advantageous rotation of tillage, helps out the supply of
manure, and assures a retail market for eggs, fruit, or vegetables.

Worcester, Mass., has a population of 110,000 at present, and annu-
ally consumes 2,076,000 cans, which is sold from 650 wagons and stores.
It is retailed for the most part at 6 cents per quart, summer and winter.
In the city and suburbs are a number of superior Jersey and Guernsey
herds, for whose milk better prices are obtained. Worcester has a very
efficient milk dealers and producers’ association, which does much to
promote uniformity in price and to keep up the quality. Many of the
Worcester milkmen are market gardeners, who combine the two kinds
of farming to advantage.

25

Most of the Lowell, Mass., daily supply of 3,511 cans comes directly
from the farmers within a few miles of the city. But a Boston milk
train passes through the city, and at times a little railroad milk is left.
Milk retails for the most part for 5 cents per quart in the summer and
6 cents in the winter. One hundred and seventy-six milk dealers’
licenses are issued in this city. The population is $4,000.

Burlington, Vt., uses about 365,000 gallons annually, which is sold by
about 140 peddlers, many of whom are producers. The population in
1890 was 15,000, but it is estimated now at about 20,000. The per cap-
ita consumption of milk has increased materially during the past ten
years. The trade has nearly doubled, while the increase in population
is about one-third. Prices at retail range from 4 to 6 cents in the sum-
mer, and from 5 to 7 cents in the winter.

Augusta, Me., with a population of 12,000, uses 1,600 to 2,000 quarts
of milk daily, “ast retailed at a ation price of 6 cents the year
around. The farmers who produce the milk for the most part retail it.

Portland, Me., uses the milk of about 4,000 cows, which amounts to
about 2, 250, 000 sallains a year. Some of his milk is sent in by railroad
in ees and express cars. This is retailed by peddlers, who are
mostly middlemen. The milkmen supplying the Portland market have
an organization.

New Bedford, Mass., has 151 licensed dealers retailing 24,000 or
25,000 quarts per day; the retail prices are mostly 6 and 7 cents. Pro-
ducers largely retail their own supplies. ;

Taunton, Mass., has 24 licensed dealers and uses about 12,000 quarts
per day. The retail price is 6 cents summer and winter.

Hartford, Conn., licenses 152 regular retail dealers. An average of
26,000 quarts is sold daily. All is produced within 10 miles of the city.

THE CREAM TRADE.

The cream trade has increased rapidly in Boston, Providence, and
other cities during the past few years. Formerly there was a small
supply and limited demand. The business was not pushed. A person
who wanted cream could in most cases be sup; lied by his milkman, and
the large Boston contractors did quite a cream trade. Still, cream was
generally looked upon as a special luxury. The increasing use of the
separator helped to develop the business, making it more easy than
ever before to secure sweet cream of good keeping qualities.

The great increase in the cream business, however, has been due to
the systematic business-like push and enterprise of a few Maine cream-
eries. This business began in the latter part of the eighties. Thecream
is sent in 6-gallon cans, packed in ice, by express on fast trains, reach-
ing Boston about 6 o’clock in the morning. It is there received by
agents of the proprietors, put into half pint, pint, and quart glass jars,
and delivered at once. It is not only delivered direct to families, but
is a common and staple article of merchandise in the grocery stores in

26

Boston, Providence, and other portions of southeastern New England.
Many stores which took experimentally only one or two cans to begin
with, found their trade rapidly increased, as the public quickly ‘caught
on” to the possibility of getting cream of reliable quality and good con-
dition for keeping.

This cream is of uniform quality, heavy and rich, being about 45 per
cent butter fat, is put up in attractive and convenient form, and keeps
well. This has stimulated a growing demand.

Such signs as ‘“‘ Bangor cream,” “‘ Hampden cream,” “ Wallingford
cream,” are now a frequent and familiar sight in a majority of grocery
and provision stores. The cream is retailed in Boston at 60 cents per
quart.

One establishment shipping cream from Maine makes the following
report of its business for the last three years, showing the increase in
the use of cream. The figures are for gallons:

Thick cream, 47 per cent butter fat.

First
six
1894. 1895. | 1896. ane
| of 1897.
Boston wnd-viciniby. 2 oh cah oka ek ee meen een | 38,466 | 40,141 | 42, 542 | 28, 034
Iienverdhys JUnaien, Ayal SENG HNs - oe oes oe boop ceesneemercSoces ae beoseceectes | 8,033 | 8,811 | 9,432) 4,333
Elacestoutsideloh Massachusebis 2 cs-e. sseeeeee eee eee eee eee eee 1,531 | 1,476 | 1,502} 1,564
otal. shee gos TS AS ee PO FO Ee eee pee Beene 43, 080 | 50, 428° | 54,476 | 33, 931
Thin cream, 18 per cent butter fat.
J First
six
1894. 1895. 1896. Anns
of 1897.
Boston/and vicinity 22 necesaecietae aoe eso eins Selatisee oh eee eeeceee 667 6,645 | 12,618 4, 925
ibynny salem yandeBevierhyj cere sess eee reese eee ee eee ene eee tees aa nee | 702 | 1,969 914
, Dotal cass. doh sest Pag aes eae c cates seer eee epee eee = 667 | 7,347 | 14, 587 5, 839

Other Maine creameries are also making large shipments. Faster
railroad trains are said to be necessary to still further develop this
cream trade. The creameries are mostly proprietary, buying milk of
the farmers. As a rule there are no particular feeding materials to
which objections are raised to the farmers using, but much pains are
taken to impress the great importance of cleanliness in every detail of
the business.

SKIM MILK.

The skim milk problem is of considerable importance in the city of
Boston. As we have shown above, a great deal of the surplus milk
is made into butter after it reaches the city. Consequently, there is a
supply of skim milk more than usual in such a center. A great deal of
this is allowed to run into the sewers, as there is no market for it; some
is sold, and some is returned to the farmers, but the greater part is

27

thrown away. This is a great loss of food material, and if the people
of the city could realize the food value of skim milk, and could buy it
at a reasonable price, much good would result. But as ordinarily sold,
a quart of skim milk too often replaces a quart of whole milk, and
_thus to that extent injures the sale of whole milk. Further than that,
‘skim milk is to quite an extent used to adulterate whole milk; just
how much no one can say. When milk is adulterated with water, the
amount of solids not fat is reduced in the same proportion as the fat,
and the abnormally low amount of solids not fat is. evidence of the
work of adulteration. But when the adulterant used is skim milk, the
solids not fat remain the normal amount; consequently, the adultera-
tion is more difficult to detect; hence, more dargerous.

In the other cities there is nen of a sale of skim milk, ‘put it is
much less, that in Lowell, for instance, amounting to 2,227 quarts per
day. The most of this skim milk sold out of Boston is sold honestly as
a valuable food product.

The use of buttermilk is not so extensive as it ought to be, and yet
in some cities considerable goes into consumption. In Lowell some-
thing like 850 quarts per day are sold. In Worcester the product of
one or two creameries is retailed each day. But speaking in a general
way, the sale of buttermilk is quite small.

CONDENSED MILK.

‘The use of condensed milk is increasing, especially in Boston. A
large city collects. many people who are compelled to keep house in
restricted quarters; in not a few instances shop and office girls practice
light housekeeping in a single room. In these and other cases the can
of condensed milk is a convenient article. New England has six con-
densed-milk factories, and the product from the West and even from
abroad is also sold in the grocery and provision stores.

MILK CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA.

The consumption of milk per capita is a very difficult thing to get at,
and statistics on this point must necessarily be more or less faulty. An
effort has been made to gain information on this subject and a careful
investigation of the quantity of milk sold in a number of cities has ©
been made, and the amount ascertained has been divided by the popu-
lation. The result is remarkably uniform, as follows (the figures indi-
cate hundredths of a quart used daily per capita of population):

ROSUOM se pease ers oie SAS blaverhille 2-55 sescs5- sie NENG coSeecooneses oh!
Wowiellise ae ees . 38 | JBN oooococsece oll) | Lehane poe so osecte 40
eairitOnde ae mre Worcester... .2s<=- SAAR SP rbtsieldesssseeeee eee oU
Naslniay pyyason ee ace a AD,

In all of these cases it must be remembered that an element of uncer-
tainty exists in the degree of accuracy in the reports cf the amount of
milk sold with which we have been furnished, but the results are so

28

uniform that it is hardly fair to suppose that an equal error could have
been made in every case. Therefore it seems reasonable to assume, in
a general way, that the consumption of milk in Massachusetts cities is
a little less than a pint per person per day—a little over four-tenths of a
quart. In no case does this include the sales of skim milk, condensed
milk, or cream.

MILK LAWS AND INSPECTION.

LEGAL STANDARD AND ADULTERATION.

All of the New England States have laws prohibiting the sale of
adulterated or watered milk, or milk from which a portion of the cream
has been removed. Allof the States except Connecticut have a statute
standard for milk.

Massachusetts prohibits the sale of milk “not of standard quality,”
as well as of adulterated milk, and the following statute defines standard
milk:

If the milk is shown upon analysis to contain less than thirteen per cent of milk
solids, or to contain less than nine and three-tenths per cent of milk solids exclusive
of fat, it shall be deemed for the purposes of this act to be not of good standard
quality, except during the months of April, May, June, July, and August, when milk
containing less than twelve per cent of milk solids, or less than nine per cent of milk

solids exclusive of fat, or less than three per cent of fat, shall be deemed to be not
of good standard quality.

Nearly all of the cases entered in court for the violation of these milk
laws complain of the offender for selling, or having in his possession or
custody with intent to sell, ‘‘milk not of standard quality,” instead of
“adulterated or watered milk.”

The Rhode Island law provides that—

If the milk shall be shown upon analysis to contain more than eighty-eight per
centum of watery fluids, or to contain less than twelve per centum of milk solids,
or less than two and one-half per centum of milk fats, it shall be deemed for the
purpose of said sections to be adulterated.

‘The New Hampshire law says that if milk has less that 13 per cent
of milk solids said fact ‘‘ shall be prima facie evidence” that the milk
isadulterated. But evidence that milk has less than 13 per cent solids
is frequently rebutted by producing or offering to produce some cow
which gives milk of less than 13 per cent solids, and therefore the
whole law is nullified.

In Maine, “when milk shall be found to contain over 88 per cent of
water it shall be deemed prima facie evidence that said milk has been
watered, and when milk by the analysis aforesaid shall be found to
contain less than 12 per cent of solids and less than 3 per cent of fat it
shall be deemed, prima facie, milk from which cream has been taken.”
This is similar to the New Hampshire law, but we have heard no com-
plaints from Maine over the words ‘ prima facie.”

Vermont, like Massachusetts, prohibits the sale of milk “not of good
standard quality,” as well as adulterated milk, milk from which a por-

29 -

tion of the cream has been removed, etc. The Vermont statute defines
standard milk as follows:

Standard milk shall contain not less than twelve and one-half per cent of solids,
or not less than nine and one-fourth of total solids exclusive of fat, except in the
months of May and June, when it shall contain not less than twelve per cent of
total solids.

The laws of the several States also have regulations for promoting
honesty in sales of skim milk, such as labeling cans, ete.

Wine measure is by law the standard measure.

OFFICIAL INSPECTION.

All of the States except Vermont and Connecticut have special laws
providing for the enforcement of these milk regulations.

In Massachusetts, cities are required and towns are allowed to
appoint milk inspectors. In Boston the present milk inspector is a
man of ability and energy. He has a respectable salary and sufficient
appropriation for collectors of samples, laboratory, etc. Hence the work
of milk inspection in that city is very efficiently performed. The follow-
ing statistics of his work show how thorough it is, and also, inferen-
tially, something of the quality of the Boston supply, the ratio of
samples taken to court cases being very small.

Samples | Cases in Samples | Cases in

Year. Year.

taken. court. taken. court.
8, 701 SSH EL BOS Sertarettia sre Actorsiaeere soit eo 13, 623 293
9, 484 iW aE ee Saoabesaoe Send BeEesoeoe 12, 587 316

13, 853 BAD: Il UK cob oooddbconobeda sauouceD 12, 295 129

In anumber of other Massachusetts cities—Lowell, for instance—good
work is also done; but in most cases the salary is nominal and the work
corresponds, though most of the inspectors earn more than they get.
Very few of the towns avail themselves of the permission to appoint
inspectors. To cover the field where local inspection is weak, the State
board of health and the State dairy bureau are also given authority
to enforce the dairy laws. The following statistics show the work of
the board of health, scattered over the State:

Samples | Court Samples | Court

ean taken. cases. : Wear: taken. cases.
HS OO MERE Me eee eee tena as, c-!oe 3, 236 722. Wa ea Kel eee a eee es oe Rn 3, 073 67
SOUR oe piers ares creeeja ssi 2, 726 AG al SOAs cis ac craters tani ose Seton eee 3, 551 76
BO Ore revere re tia sae ioe ce Saks eas 3,271 TON ABO eS sc once cca cer e ose es 6, 104 | 48

Convictions followed in about 90 per cent of the cases.

Rhode Isiand has a law similar to Massachusetts as regards local
milk inspectors. New Hampshire law permits the appointment of such
officers. In Maine, cities and towns of not less than 3,000 inhabitants
must appoint milk inspectors. In most cases, however, in all of these

30

States there is little inspection and in many cases no inspector. Par-
ticular mention should be made of the good work in Providence, R. L.,
Nashua, N. H., and Hartford, Conn. The inspector of the latter city
is appointed anne the provisions of a city ordinance.

The regulations in the different States as to the duties and peers
of milk inspectors are similar. The inspectors and collectors of sam-
ples employed by them are authorized to enter all places where milk is
stored or kept for sale and all carriages used for the conveyance of
milk and take samples for analysis from all such places or carriages.

The laws of the different States where there are milk inspectors pro-
vide for registering and licensing milk dealers for a nominal fee. This
is done for the purpose of securing proper identification of the dealer.

The legal supervision hitherto noticed has related almost entirely to
the commercial fraud of selling less food than the purchaser supposes
he is receiving for his money—. e., milk watered, skimmed, or na
of less than average quality.

SANITARY LAWS AND INSPECTION.

All of the States have laws relative to the healthfulness of the milk
supply. Massachusetts, Maine, Khode Island, and New Hampshire
prohibit the sale of milk from sick or diseased cows or cows fed upon
the refuse of breweries or distilleries or upon any substance deleterious
to its quality. Connecticut prohibits the sale of “impure milk” and
milk from cows which shall have been adjudged by the commission
upon diseases of domestic animals to be affected with tuberculosis or
other blood disease. A Massachusetts law imposes a fine upon “ who-
ever knowingly feeds or has in his possession with intent to feed to
any milech cow any garbage, refuse, or offal collected by any city or
town.”

There is, however, no especial sanitary inspection of milk and its
sources in any New England town or city, and cases are rarely brought
in court for violation of any of the above sanitary laws. The milk
inspection now in vogue relates almost exclusively to commercial frauds
rather than to health matters. The Massachusetts state board of.
health has done some good work in investigating several typhoid-fever
epidemics, which in a number of cases have been traced to the milk
supply. Local boards of health, however, have considerable authority,
and in several cases they have issued orders or made regulations in
advance of the average practice of the State. Hartford, Conn., Port-
land, Me., and Lynn, Mass., are instances. The contagious-cattle-
disease law of Massachusetts provides for a cattle inspector in each
town, who makes a semiannual inspection of neat stock, quarantining ©
suspected animals, which are subsequently tuberculin-tested, and if
found to be diseased are destroyed. In a few instances—Pittsfield, for _
example—the milk inspector and cattle inspector are one and tke same
person, which is a decided advantage.

31

The milk inspector of Nashua, N. H., has a unique and commendable
system of sanitary inspection of the milk supply of that city, which is
said to work well. Although his official powers are confined to the
city limits and to the commercial fraud of selling adulterated or low-
grade milk, all peddlers—mostly producers—are required to answer the
following questions when they register:

1. Name of owner? 2. Number of cows? 3. Number of each breed? 4. Food of
cows? 5. Howismanurestored? 6. Quantity of milk produced perday? 7. Where
is milk stored? 8. How is milk cooled? 9. Temperature of milk when sold?
10. Source of water supply for stock and for washing cans? 11. Distance of water
supply from barnyard; from privy vault; from cesspool? 12. Are any cows sick
upon your premises; if so, how many, and with what disease? 13. Are any
persons engaged in handling milk sick?

The inspector also calls from time to time on the farmers who pro-
duce milk for the city, even when they reside out of his official juris-
diction. He makes such investigation of the premises as he is permitted,
and reports to the board of aldermen the condition of affairs. The
board then orders the report published in the local papers. To-most
milk producers the publicity of an unfavorable milk report is more of
a punishment than a court fine, while a favorable report is a valuable
advertisement. Hence, as much is accomplished as if there were more
stringent laws, and there is none of the friction that might arise from
over-officiousness or unpopular official prying. He also issues the
following:

[Cireular.]
Ciry oF NasuHua, N. H.,
DEPARTMENT OF MILK INSPECTION.

The importance of education in the better care of milk is so great that I feel it a
duty to call attention to certain precautions necessary to a good product. The
average farmer has so many cares that he sometimes fails to give this important sub-
ject proper attention.

Milk in the udder of the healthy cow contains none of the microorganisms of
fermentation or decay, and could it be drawn thence into an hermetically sealed -
receptacle, without coming in contact with the air, it would keep without change for
an indefinite time. Of course this is not practicable in an ordinary dairy, but care
can certainly be exercised that the surrounding atmosphere with which it does
come in contact is as free as possible from germs, odors, or taints, for these the milk
absorbs with great rapidity.

Milk which has stood for ten minutes in an open vessel in a tainted atmosphere
will be found to contain from 10,000 to 100,000 germs per cubic centimeter (a cubic
centimeter represents about one-third of a cubic inch), while in two hours from
2,000,000 to 5,000,000 germs will be found per cubic centimeter: This prodigious
inerease can be stopped by removing the milk to a proper cooler. I have explained
the necessity of pure water and wholesome food for cows so often before that I
will not repeat it. But I wish to call attention to the following precautions in the
handling of milk:

All stables should be ventilated.

They should be as clean as possible.

Cows should be carefully groomed.

The milk should he drawn from the cow as rapidly as possible.

The milk should not be left standing in the stable a moment longer than
necessary.

32

The cooler should be so remote from the stable that no odors can reach it,
Its temperature should be at from 45° to 50° F., and
The milk should be aerated to remove animal odors.

Under these improved conditions cows not only yield better milk but more of it,
and amply repay the labor and troubie expended upon them.

There are in this vicinity dairies infamous alike in their cruelty to animals, in
their brutalizing influence upon men, and in their disease-spreading effects upon
infants and the general community ; but I believe that a vast majority of our farmers
desire to do right if but the means'and knowledge were presented to them.

I. F. GRAVES, Inspector of Milk.

Health orders.—The board of health of the city of Boston has the
following regulation:

Whereas cows’ milk is one of the most common and necessary articles of food, and
is oftentimes seriously impaired in usefulness and rendered dangerous to health by
the want of proper care in its production or subsequent treatment and handling; it
is, therefore, ordered that the following regulation be and is hereby adopted:

SECTION 1. No person shall use any building as a stable for cows unless it con-
tains at least 1,000 cubic feet of space for each animal, is well lighted and ventilated,
has tight roof and floors, good drainage, a supply of pure water, and all other nec-
essary means for maintaining the health and good condition of the cows, and has
been approved by the board of health.

Src. 2. Every person using any such building shall keep the same and the prem-
ises connected therewith, and all land used for pasturage of the cows, clean and free
from filth.

Src. 3. Every person keeping a milch cow shall permit it to be examined from
time to time, as to its freedom from disease, by a veterinarian designated by the
board of health.

Sec. 4. No person having an infectious disease, or having recently been in contact
with any such person, shall milk cows or handle cans, measures, or other vessels
used for milk intended for sale, or in any way take part or assist in handling milk
intended for sale, until all danger of communicating such disease to other persons
shall have passed.

Src. 5. No person shall sell or use for human food the milk of a diseased cow, or
permit such milk to be mixed with other milk, nor until it has been boiled shall use
such milk, or any mixture of such milk, for food of swine or other animals.

QUALITY OF MILK SOLD.

The word quality when applied to milk may mean the amount of milk
solids (which is the best acceptation) or it may have reference to flavor,
disease germs, bacteria of decay, ete. From what has been said above
it will be seen that in whatever sense we use the word the quality of
milk receives considerable attention, especially as to its composition.

In Massachusetts the law creating a legal standard of 12 and 13 per
cent is well enforced, and milk in the market usually averages even
above the standard. All of the large Boston wholesalers employ
chemists, who devote all of their time to testing the supplies which they
receive. If the milk of any dairy is below the statute standard, warn-
ing is sent to the producer, and if the warning does not result in an
improved quality of milk the supply from that dairy is dropped. In
some instances where there is unmistakable evidence of watering the

33

case is turned over to State officials for prosecution. This unofficial
inspection weeds out a lot of milk that might be below the standard
before it is put on the market, and insures to peddlers the purchase of
milk that will not get them into trouble.

In Providence a lower standard exists than in Massachusetts, which
causes the milk inspector some trouble. Most natural milk has over 12
per cent of solids. A sinall amount of water can be added to 13 or 14
per cent milk without changing the proportion of fat and solids not fat
sufficiently to warrant a verdict against the adulterator. Most judges
will convict only when the milk is below the statute standard, and do
not feel convinced of the guilt of the defendant on the simple assertion of
a chemist that the relation of fat and solids not fat is such as to create
a certainty that the milk is adulterated.

In the smaller cities and towns statistics from samples of milk taken
by various officials show, usually, a higher quality than samples from
milk sold in Boston or Providence, although the milk in those places is
up to the statutory standard, for the closer the contact between the
producer and consumer the better the quality of the milk. The occa-
sional meeting of producer and consumer, face to face, has a tonic and
stimulating effect on the former, which tends to keep up the quality of
the milk supply. One of the disadvantages of shipping milk by rail-
road is that the producer never sees the consumer, oftentimes not even
the peddler, and has no interest in his supply further than to avoid a
word of warning from the contractor’s-:chemist.

Milk substantially above the statutory standard is more frequently
found among farmers retailing their own milk supply direct to con-
sumers than elsewhere.

The following is the result of analyses of milk taken from milkmen
by officers of the Massachusetts Dairy Bureau in the regular discharge
of their routine duties, and throws an accurate sidelight on the per
cent of solids sold. These samples were taken in May and June, when
the legal standard is 12 per cent.

Worcester: Samples from 28 milkmen ranged from 12 to 14.34 per
cent total solids and averaged 13.06 per cent.

Taunton: Five samples ranged from 12.54 to 14.28 and averaged
13.50 per cent.

New Bedford: Thirty samples ranged from 11.84 to 15.02 and aver-
aged 13.30 per cent; 14 of them were above this average.

The following are the figures of four days’ routine work of the Boston
milk inspector. The standard for July is 12 per cent.

14777—No. 20

a)
(3)

o4

Inspections for four days in July.

26th 27th 28th 29th.
Seimples) iio GINO oocscne roscoe sssndo deanonesoses Number. - 20 9 | 19 0
SaMpleseromMy wea CON Sas eeeereeasacse eee e ener seer ere do... 30 21 | 31 30
50 30 —— 50 |—-——- 30
Above the standard : |
UNGUN MOO Vs) soos ponsoose seen sgeseonoeeo eb aneceagsos do... 19 9 i 18 0
INOW WRBOMS 2soncsooccsoco cess onsscsoocsaasoosboss dopee 30 20 31 27
49 29 ——— 49 |_——__ 27
Below the standard: |
HIPOM) SHOPS! teas las ceesae oe eee eeEe ser coe aang = See dojere 1 @ | | 1 0
TROT WHOM) coosaossesoessooo seeded sasseseasecsos do... 0 1 0 3
1 1 1 |-———. 3
Poorest sample above standard ...-......-..----.- Per cent. - 12.12 12. 06 12.06 12. 25
(Poorestisamip] ce foun deere rere areas sete sere sae do ... 11. 92 11. 96 11. 20 11. 40

The Providence milk inspector reported that he examined 24 samples
of milk on the 24th of July and 47 samples on the 26th, and found the
results as follows:

Total solids (per cent). Fat (per cent). | Solids not fat (per cent).
Number of \-
samples. High- | Low- | Aver- | High- | Low- | Aver- | High- | Low- | Aver-
est. est. age. est. est. | age est. est age
MH sauDnDSse 13.75 | 11.10] 12.60 5. 00 3. 00 | 3. 81 | 9. 40 7.50 |} 8.80
Wl sscanccbe> *14.35 | 79.65 12.21 | *6.00 2. 20 3. 59 | 9.39) 17. 25 8. 63
* Same sample. + Same sample.

This inspector remarks: ‘This does not represent the average quality
of the milk sold in Providence, neither would the figures obtainable for
any other two days, unless by chance.”

The following figures are from the inspector of milk at Lowell:

Number

Per cent. of
samples.
PAtveragesolids tor bebrianyey SOM seer leiaaclatetsteleetal mie sone leteiseeisiaietelataiete states 13. 42 197
ATEHIRS SOMIGIS) sore Diwan GWEN 6555 consecao 5 S05 see ooesnoseatssooscoseadanacoens 12. 96 237
Average solids for dium eile Ol mete sen see seen ee eee eh eee ee ree e reas 13. 06 23
PAtvera Se Solid Sore wlsyglO) 89 Terence see rieee ese tae eeienie eice re ee neal ee 12. 82 24

The above figures will give some idea of the amount of solid matter
in milk as sold in New England cities.

Regarding milk in the second sense of the word “quality,” we are
confronted by two positive opinions, and those apparently very contra-
dictory. In spite of the healthfulness of the Boston milk supply, Pro-

fessor Sedgwick, of the Institute of Technology, a bacteriologist of note, .

embraces every opportunity to criticise Boston milk.

On the other hand, Dr. Conn, of Wesleyan University, a well-known
bacteriologist who has made dairy products a special study, says what
might be construed as a flat contradiction—that Boston has probably a
better milk supply than any other city in the world. Thereis doubtless
truth in both statements, their seeming inconsistency being explained
by the different standpoint of the two students. One speaks from the

35

standpoint of the idealist, and finds much that needs condemnation;
the other speaks of things comparatively, as he finds them in many
places.

Much of the milk supply of Boston comes from such distances that
the selfish interests of the producers compel precautions that otherwise
would be unnecessary. Filthy milk, drawn under indifferent cundi-
tions, will not be sweet and wholesome when from 40 to 70 hours old.
Consequently, the railroad milk must be, even without legal require-
ment, more or less carefully attended to. Many of the farmers who
ship milk to Boston have ice or running spring water for the quick and
immediate cooling of milk, and if their methods get too slovenly the
fact is recorded in the poorer keeping qualities of the milk, and some-
times in its return as sour. Itis often the fact that the precautions
necessary to care for this milk shipped from a distance are such that
after arriving in the city it will keep longer than milk from nearby, the
producer of the latter not taking so much pains because the milk was
to be delivered at once.

The general dissemination of information as to the bacteriological
cause of milk’s souring—the work of colleges, experiment stations, and
newspapers—is leading farmers to become more and more particular in
regard to cooling it as soon as possible after milking, and taking the
other necessary precautions for the purpose of insuring its keeping.
Another influence, however, is pulling the other way. Quite a change
in the nationality of the farmers is going on. Farms are passing from
the native New England stock into the hands of those more recently
descended from other countries, thrifty, industrious people, and good
citizens, but for the time being in some instances they are not as well
informed in the latest and best agricultural methods. They are not
book farmers, and frequently a change of farm owners means a tempo-
rary deterioration in the milk supply from that farm.

The methods of some city peddlers are open to criticism; their milk
headquarters and their stables are often one and the same building, and
sometimes the mixing and canning is not done under perfectly clean
conditions.

Outside of Boston the milk supply is reasonably good, as the times
go. A general improvement in the supply of the different cities is
reported by correspondents. They say that the farmers producing milk
are generally reliable and honest; that it is for the most part cooled in
running water or ice tanks, and that great improvement has been made
during the last few years. Nearly all, however, urge further advances
along this line; and while most of the correspondents not only note
improvement but claim that their town or city compares well with
others, they recognize room for further improvement, and call especial
attention to the need of more cleanliness in every department—in
vehicles, cans, and the milkmen themselves. Some emphasize the
importance of more care in cooling and aeration.

36

The general attention which has been given to tuberculosis during
the past few years has resulted in the destruction of many tuberculous
herds, and this has doubtless had a beneficial effect on the milk supply.
All of the New England States, except possibly Rhode Island, have
had popular agitations of this subject, and sharp dissension has arisen.
The point in dispute has been whether the degree of danger from tuber-
culous milk was sufficient to warrant the public expense and losses to
cow owners incident to radical measures in combating the disease.
Whatever may be the views of different persons on this subject, all
must admit that many tuberculous herds have been exterminated, and
that this, at least, can not have injured the milk supply. As a result
of this agitation, every town in Massachusetts has a cattle inspector,
who makes a semiannual examination of the cows in his town. His
official authority is confined to quarantining suspected animals, but
the system has done much good ina suggestive way, in improving ven-
tilation, increasing the amount of light, and reducing the uncleanliness
of stables.

On the whole, the milk supply of New England cities seems reason-
ably up to the best average practice of the present times.

NEED OF ADVANCED PRACTICES.

As to more advanced practices, however, it seems that very little is
being done. The ideal way of selling milk is not on a dead level at one
price, but on its merits and at a price proportionate to quality. <A little
is already being done in this direction, and a number of dairymen with
Jersey or Guernsey herds sell milk above the going price. But we
know of no milk sold on a guarantee of its content of solids. It com-
mands an extra price because people know that the milk of such cows
is richer than the milk of other cows, and also because it has an improved
quality in other directions. .

A large dairy farm in Worcester County has for years run to Boston
a car of milk from superior Jersey herds, which has been sold above
the current price for milk, for the most part at 10 cents per quart. No
specific amount of total solids has been guaranteed, but the milk has
been better than 13 per cent—nearer 15. When individual glass bottles
first came in vogue this company was a pioneer in their use, and later
when tuberculin was discovered it was the first to advertise milk from
tuberculin-tested cows. Indeed, it still produces the only milk so
advertised and sold in Boston. Great pains is taken with the milk on
the farm and it is always in good condition.

A resident of the city of Newton, a residentiai suburb of Boston,
has developed a milk business calling for the product of about 150
cows. The milk is sold within a narrow radius to people who might
be called his neighbors, who have seen or heard of his methods, and
who desire the milk. His cows*are Jerseys, tuberculin-tested, kept in
one-story barns, with no manure cellar underneath and no hay lofts

37

overhead. Light and ventilation are ample. Scrupulous cleanliness
prevails. Great pains is taken to promote the comfort of the animals.
The newest barn has no stanchions, but provides a box stall 7 by 9
feet for each cow. The milk is run through a cooler as soon as drawn,
and kept cool by artificial refrigeration—ammonia process. It is then
bottled in glass jars, being at a temperature of 38 to 40 degrees, and
delivered at once to customers. There are two deliveries a day, and
the milk is not over two hours old when in the hands of consumers.

The use of glass jars for the delivery of milk is growing and is some-
what common, though used as yet by a small minority of milkmen.
Pasteurizing milk is done only to a limited extent. Here and there
some pioneer has entered into this field. The Massachusetts Agricul-
tural College and one or two enterprising dairy farmers within reach of
Boston have recently added pasteurizing apparatus to their dairy equip-
ment, and are selling sterilized milk and cream. The number who sell
pasteurized milk, in proportion to the whole, is extremely small; still
there has been a satisfactory beginning, and frequently additions are
made to the number of those who are advancing in this direction.

The pasteurizing of cream is more common. Some of the concerns
who supply cream in a wholesale way pasteurize all of their output to
enhance its keeping qualities.

A company started in Boston several years ago the sale of “‘modified”
milk. By patent processes this “laboratory” prepares from cream,
skim milk, and sugar of milk a compounded milk of any desired com-
position, for infants and invalids. The company has its own herd of
cows, well cared for, to supply the milk.

Some of the large milk dealers of the city are experimenting with
filtered milk, and introducing it on a limited scale. The process
enhances its keeping qualities, and the milk so treated has been shown
by microscopical examination to be almost as free from bacteria as
pasteurized milk.

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