UNITED STATES

EXPLOKING EXPEDITION.

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NARRATIVE

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OF THi:

EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

DUK-ING THE YEARS

1838^ 1839^ 1840, 1841, 184^

BY

CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N. ^

COM.MAXDEE. OF THE EXPEDITION,

MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

IN FIVE VOLUMES, WITH THIRTEEN MAPS. /

VOL. V. ^

PHILADELPHIA:

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1849.

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^ ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YKAR 1844,

BY C^Alflp^ WIL^ESy U. S. N-

T A

Dfffrffrct ftQca::^ FOR THE district of Columbia

IN THE clerk's OFFigiE <BF^ltE DfffrlT

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0 F V 0 L. V.

CHAPTER L

DEPARTURE FROM OAHU — WASHINGTON ISLAND — JARVIS'S ISLAND — MAGNETIC
EaUATOR — ENDERBL'RV'S ISLAND — BIRNIE 3 ISLAND —HULL'S ISLAND — DUKE OF

YORKS ISLAND-ITS NATIVES VISIT THE SHIP-THEIR ALARM AT THE FIRING OF
CANNON — A PARTY LAND3 — ITS RECEPTION — TATTOOING— VILLAGE— aUAYS-AB
SENCE OF CULTIVATION— MUSIC-CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES — PRODUCTIONS —
DUKE OF CLARENCE'S ISLAND — BOWDITCHS ISLAND — NATIVES SEEN FISHING-
INTERVIEW WITH THEM -A PARTY LANDS-PRIEST— CAPTAIN HUDSON LANDS —
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING— VILLAGE AND TEMPLE— RELICS OF A VESSEL— WELL
— DRUMS-DRESS AND ORNAMENTS-MANUFACTURES AND TOOLS - POPULATION —

AS-SAVAII-UPOLU

HURRICANES

— HALOS-PEA» THE CHIEF OF APIA -MODE OF TRADING-IMPROVEMENTS-NEW
EFFORTS OF THE MISSIONARIES-MALIETOA'S ILLNESS, AND ITS CAUSE— MOLE —
STRONG GALE— DESERTION FROM THE SURVEYING PARTY— DESERTERS RECOVERED

DEMAND FOR THE MURDERER OF SMITH-IT IS REFUSED-EXCURSIONS OF THE

GIMBLET

BOAT3-CA

TAIN HUDSON PROCEEDS TO SALUAFATA, AND DESTROYS IT-RESULTS OF THE
PUNISHMENT— FRUFFLESS ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO— MATAATU— MALIETOA
—FAREWELL VISIT FROM THE CHIEFS— THE VESSELS SAIL FROM MATAATU.-.-l— 34

CHAPTER II.

E PEACOCK AND TENDER LEAVE THE SAMOAN GROUP -ELLICE'S GROUP-CANOES
rrs NATIVES-THEIR LANGUAGE-DEFEYSTERS ISLAND— ITS NATIVES— ALBINOS—

I*

w

vi CONTENTS.

CLOTHING OF ITS INHABITANTS— THEIR SYMBOL OF PEACE-WOMAN AND CHIEF
OF THE ISLAND— FOOD OF THE NATIVES— HARBOUR— VISIT FROM THE KING— THE
NATIVES' KNOWLEDGE OF OTHER LANDS— THEIR RELIGION— SPEIDENS ISLAND-
HUDSON'S ISLAND— ST. AUGUSTINE — DRUMMOND'S ISLAND — ITS NATIVES —THEIR
HEAD DRESS— THEIR LANGUAGE— THEIR WEAPONS — THEIR DEFENSIVE ARMOl'R—
THEIR ORNAMENTS— THEIR CANOES— A PARTY LANDS AT UTIROA— ITS RECEPTION
—RUDENESS AND PILFERING OF THE NATIVES— DANCE— SECOND VISIT TO UTIROA

—RECEPTION IN THE COUNCIL-HOUSE- INCREASED RUDENESS OF THE NATIVES-
ONE OF THE SEAMEN MISSING— MESSAGE SENT TO THE UTIROANS— TOWNS ON

DRUMMOND'S ISLAND-DETERMINATION TO PUNISH UTIROA FOR THE MURDER-
EXPEDITION AGAINST THAT TOWN — PARLEY WITH ITS INHABITANTS - UTIROA
BURNT — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES OF ETA — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF
DRUMMONDS ISLAND — SUPPLIES FOR SHIPS — BISHOP'S ISLAND — HENDERVILLE

ISLAND— HALL'S ISLAND— APAMAMA — JOHN KIRBY TAKEN ON BOARD— WOODLE'S
ISLAND— DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF AN ENGLISH WHALER— ERRORS OF CHARTS-
TARAWA— APIA— IDOL— THE TENDER GROUNDS— DRIFT OF THE PEACOCK— THREAT-
ENED ATTACK ON THE TENDER— MATTHEW'S ISLAND — PITT'S ISLAND — MAKIN-
ROBERT WOOD TAKEN ON BOARD-NATIVES OF PITT'S ISLAND— THEIR CANOES-
THEER TREATMENT OF FEMALES-KING TEKERE AND HIS RELATIVES— A NATIVE
DESIRES TO BE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND aS-TS

CHAPTER III.

SOURCES OF INFORMATION IN RELATION TO THE KINGSMIT^L GROUP— ISLANDS OF
WHICH IT IS COMPOSED— THEIR GENERAL CHARACTER— THEIR SOIL— TARO-PONDS-
TRADITION OF THE ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE— ANCIENT INTERCOURSE BETWEEN
THE ISLANDS— PHYSIOGNOMY AND APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES— THEIR SOCIAL
STATE— GOVERNMENT- DESCENT OF PROPERTY— RELIGIOUS BELIEF- PRIESTS— ORA-
CLES— OMENS— PRETENDED COMMUNICATION WITH SPIRITS— BELIEF IN A FUTURE
STATE— THEIR ELYSICM— THEIR MODE OF LIFE-THEIR CHARACTER— THEIR TREAT-
MENT OF CHILDREN, OF THE AGED, AND OF WOMEN— THEIR WARS— CANNIBALISM
NOT PRACTISED — THEIR WEAPONS — THEIR HOUSES AND CANOES-THEIR MANU-

FACTURES-DRESS- ORNAMENTS— THEIR FOOD— THEIR MODE OF COOKING-THEIR
AMUSEMENTS— THEIR MARRIAGES— MODE OF GIVING NAMES-PRACTICE OF ABOR.
TION— TATTOOING -FUNERAL CEREMONIES- DISEASES— CLIMATE OF THE GROUP-
EARTHQUAKES — POPULATION — THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH STRANGERS — THEIR
PRONENESS TO SUICIDE— THEIR IDEA OF AN ACCOMPLISHED PERSON-CONTRAST
BETWEEN PITTS AND THE OTHER ISLANDERS— DEPARTURE OF THE PEACOCK AND
FLYING-FISH FROM THE KINGSMILL GROUP— THEIR CREWS PLT ON SHORT ALLOW-
ANCE— PESCADORES —KORSAKOFF— OBJECTS REMAINING UNACCOMPLISHED— SEPA-
RATION OF THE VESSELS-LARGE aUANTITIES OF MOLLUSC/E-SHIP MAGNOLIA—
OAUU— ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU -REACH COLUMBIA RIVER

77—110

CONTENTS, vii

CHAPTER IV.

REPARATIONS FOR THE SURVEY OF THE COLUMBIA— DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS^
BAKER^S BAY— LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN SENT TO MEET MR. ELD— RAMSEY AND
GEORGE, THE PILOTS-RETURN TO ASTORIA— PURCHASE OF A BRIG-MESSRS. HALE
AND DANA GO WITH DR. MCLAUGHLIN— TRADE WITH THE INDIANS-SUPERSTITIONS
OF THE INDIANS— SURVEY RESUMED — TONGUE POINT — THE VESSELS GROUND —

WAIKAIKUM— PREVALENCE OF FEVER AND AGUE— PILLAR ROCK-BOAT CAPSIZED
— KATALAMET POINT— LIEUTENANT EMMONS ORDERED TO SAN FRANCISCO— FIRE
ON MOUNT COFFIN-PORFOISE GROUNDS AGAIN-WARRIOR3 POINT— VANCOUVER-
SIR GEORGE SIMPSON— DIVIDENDS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY— FORMAL DINNER
—CHANGED APPEARANCE OP VANCOUVER— OBSERVATIONS AT VANCOUVER-ARRI-
VAL OF MR. ELD'S PARTY— HIS EXPEDITION— HIS DEPARTURE FROM NiSaUALLY—

SaUAW CHIEF— PORTAGE TO THE SACHAL— LAKES— EMBARKATION AND DESCENT
OF THE SACHAL — COUNTRY ON THE CHICKEELES — CARVED PLANKS— MR. ELD
ENTERS GRAY'S HARBOUR-THE INDIANS REFUSE HIM AID— DIFFICULTIES ATTEND-
ING THE SURVEY— MR. ELDS PARTY IS RELIEVED BY LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN-
SURVEY OF THE RIVER COMPLETED— CHARACTER OF GRAYS HARBOUR-INDIANS

OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD— DEPARTURE FROM GRAYS HARBOUR- PASSAGE ALONG
THE COAST^ARRIVAL OF MR. ELD AT ASTORIA— ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDI-
TION TO CALIFORNIA— DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER-POSTS OF THE HUDSON BAY
COMPANY— TRADE OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY— CLIMATE OF OREGON-WINDS—
FEVER AND AGUE— INDIAN POPULATION-PROGRESS DOWN THE RIVER — LETTERS
FROM THE UNITED STATES — DEEP WATER— SURVEY OF THE COWLITZ — PUGET
ISLAND— PILLAR ROCK— CHANNEL AT TONGUE POINT-RETURN TO ASTORIA— POR-
POISE ANCHORS AT ASTORIA— PRIMEVAL FOREST — PREPARATIONS FOR PASSING
THE BAR— DISPOSITION MADE OF THE PEACOCKS LAUNCH-BAR PASSED— SURVEYS
COMPLETED — ORNAMENTS. NORTHWEST COAST — WE SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO-
LETTER OF THANKS TO DR. M LAUGHLIN-VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO— ARRIVAL
THERE— LAUNCH DESPATCHED TO MEET LIEUTENANT EMMONS 113—148

CHAPTER V.

RRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT SAN FRANCISCO-PREPARATIONS FOB THE SUR-
VEYS — SAUSALITO — LONG DROUGHT — PRESIDIO — ALCALDE OF VERBA BUENA —
TOWN OP VERBA BUENA-UNSETTLED STATE OF CALIFORNIA— CLIMATE OF SAN
FRANCISCO-SOIL-CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA — RIVERS-HARBOURS-TRADE— MANU-
FACTURE OF WINE — INDUSTRY — MILLS -SHEEP— SWINE— MAGISTRATES AND AD
MINISTRATION OF JUSTICE— REVOLUTIONS OF CALIFORNIA— OPINIONS IN RELATION
TO THEM— RELATIONS WITH MEXICO-MODE OF RECRUITING FOR THE MISSIONi^

viii CONTENTS-

PRESENT CONDITION OF THE INDIANS-CHANGE IN THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE
MISSIONS — ITS EFFECTS ON T[IE INDIANS- THEIR NUMBI^RS — NUMBERS OP THE
WHITES-THEIR HEALTH— THEIR CHARACTER— THEIR MORALS— THEIR HOSPITALITY
—THEIR CRUELTY— EXPEDITION UP THE SACRAMENTO— BAY OF SAN PABLO-DELTA
OF THE SACRAMENTO-CAPTAIN SUTER-NEW HELVETIA— CAPTAIN SUTER'S FARM
ING AND OTHER AVOCATIONS^INDIAN DANCE — DISEASES — ROUTE TO OREGON-
DEPARTURE FROM NEW HELVETIA— FEATHER RIVER— GAME-THE TULA— INDIANS
— BEARS — INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF — MANNERS, ETC., OF THE INDIANS— THEIR
RANCHERIA— THEFT BY AN INDIAN — BUTE PRAIRIE^FISH-WEIR-KINKLA TRIBE—
HUNTING-RETURN TO NEW HELVETIA— AMERICAN SETTLERS-INDIAN VILLAGES-
OCCUPATIONS OF THE TWO SEXES— ARIDITY OF THE COUNTRY-CROPS— ANIMALS—
RETURN OF SURVEYING PARTY TO THE VINCENNES— VISITS OF THE INHABITANTS

t

TO THE SHIP— MARTINEZ FAMILY— AMUSEMENTS— CAPTAIN RICHARDSON— VALLEY
OF NAPPA— TOWN OP ZONOMA -GENERAL VALLEJO- MISSION OF SAN RAFAEL-
FETE IN HONOUR OF A SAINT— BEAR AND BULL FIGHT — EXCURSION TO SANTA
CLARA— EMBARCADERO—ESTANCIA OF PERALTOS-DON MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA—
MISSION OF SANTA CLARA— PADRE MERCADOR— CHURCH OP SANTA CLARA— GAR-
DEN-PUEBLO OF SAN JOSE — ITS ALCALDE — MODE OF CONDUCTING BUSINESS IN
CALIFORNIA — DIFFICULTY IN PROCURING HORSES — DEPARTURE FROM SANTA
CLARA - CALTFORNIAN HORSEMAN — RANCHEROS — LAS PULGAS — ESTANCIA OF
SENOR SANCHEZ— VERBA BUEN A— RETURN TO THE SHIP 149— i214

CHAPTER VL

EaUIPMENT OF LIEUTENANT EMMONS S PARTY — MULTUNOMAH ISLAND — DIFFI-
CULTIES — SICKNESS — INEFFICIENCY OF SOME OF THE MEN— SETTLERS ON THE
WILLAMETTE- MISSIONARIES — THOMAS M'KAY— DEPARTURE FROM THE WILLA-
METl'E — ENCAMPMENT AT TURNER'S — UPPER VALLEY OF THE WILLAMETTE —
CREOLE AND IGNAS CREEKS - LAKE GUARDIPII -- WOLVES — MALE CREEK — ELK
MOUNTAINS — ELK RIVER — FORT UMPaUA— HOSTILE BEARING OF THE INDIANS —
PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE— NEW SPECIES OF OAK— DISCONTENT OF THE TRAP-

PERS—FIRE IN THE PRAIRIES— BILLEYS CREEK— FORD OF THE UMPaUA-ANIMALS
—INDIAN SCOUTS— GRISLY BEARS-INDIAN FOUND IN THE CAMP— UMPaUA MOUN-
TAINS-SHASTE COUNTRY— YOUNG'S CREEK -PINE SUGAR— ROGUES' RIVER-INASS
SURPRISED BY INDIANS— SCENES OF FORMER CONFLICTS WITH INDIANS— FRIENDLY
INDIANS -SUFFERINGS FROM THE AGUE — THREATENED ATTACK — ANTELOPES —
RABBITS -BOUNDARY MOUNTAINS — EMMONS'S PEAK — MOUNT SHASTE - KLAMET
RIVER— INTERVIEW WITH INDIANS— SHASTE INDIANS— THEIR SKILL IN ARCHERY-
SHASTE RANGE — LARGE PINES — CHALYBEATE SPRING — DESTRUCTION RIVER —
VALLEY OF THE SACRAMENTO— KINKL A INDIANS-THEIR VILLAGE-FAILURE TO
OBTAIN CANOES-FORD OP THE SACRAMENTO— BUTES— FEATHER RIVER— CAPTAIN
SUTERS-RELICS OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE — THE PARTY DIVIDED-RIVER SAN JOA

CONTENTS. ix

CHIM— MISSION OP SAN JOSE— SANTA CLARA— YERBA BUENA— NOSTRA SEXORA DE
LOS DOLORES— THE LAND DIVISION REACHES THE VINCENNES-RESULTS OP THE

■

EXPEDITION— CLOSING SCENE * 215-250

CHAPTER VI L

PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING-NEW DISTRIBUTION OF OFFICERS-LIEUTENANT CARR
APPOINTED TO THE COMMAND OF THE OREGON— PLAN OF OPERATIONS-DEPAR.
TURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO— DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE VINCENNES-DEATH
OP A MARINE— HIS BURLAL-SEARCH FOR COPPERAS ISLAND— PAILOLO CHANNEL-
ARRIVAL AND RECEPTON AT HONOLULU— CASE OF HERRON, THE COOPER— TRADE
OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS— THEIR POLITICAL RELATIONS— THEIR FUTURE PROS-
PECTS—FINAL DEPARTURE FROIM THEM— THE BRIGS PART COMPANY— INSTRUCTIONS
TO MR. KNOX— THE FLYING-FISH PARTS COMPANY— SEARCH FOR MALOON'S. JANETS
AND CORNWALLIS ISLANDS — WAKE'S ISLAND — SEARCH FOR HALCYON AND FOL-
GER'S ISLANDS — LADRONE ISLANDS — GRIGAN — SEARCH FOR COPPERS ISLAND —
SABTANG AND BATAN-CAPE CAPONES — FLYING-FISH REJOINS THE VINCENNES-

WE ANCHOR IN THE BAY OF MANILLA-GOVERNMENT GALLEY -CRUISE OF THE

w

FLYING-FISH-SEARCH FOR CORNWALLIS ISLAND-REEF DISCOVERED-SEARCH FOR
SAN PABLO— MULGRAVE ISLANDS-BAPHAM'S. HUNTER'S. AND BARING'S ISLANDS—
M'KENZIE'S GROUP 251—272

CHAPTER VII L

ARRIVAL AT MANILLA— VISIT FROM THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT — VIEW OF THE
CITY — LANDING AT MANILLA — ANCHORAGE — PORT OP CAVITE — CITY AND ITS
BUILDINGS-ITS POPULATION— KIND RECEPTION BY THE AMERICAN CONSUL— WANT
OP FACILITIES FOR REPAIRS— CITY GOVERNMENT — DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION
OF THE PHILIPPINES-POLICY OP THE CONQUERORS — GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF
THE ISLANDS— PRODUCTIONS AND AGRICULTURE — AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS —
USE OF THE BUFFALO-CULTURE OF RICE-MANILLA HEMP-COFFEE-SUGAR-COT-
TON—MODE OF TAKING PRODUCE TO MARKET— PROFITS OF AGRICULTURE— LABOUR
—RAVAGES OF LOCUSTS— INHABITANTS— NATIVE TRIBES— POLICY OF THE GOVERN-
MENT-CAPABILITIES FOR COMMERCE— MILITARY FORCE-INTERNAL DISTURBANCES
—VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR-TENURE AND EMOLUMENTS OF HIS OFFICE-VISITS

TO GOVERl^iVTENT OFFICERS- CAPTAINS SALOMON AND HALCON- ROYAL CIGAR
MANUFACTORY— MANUFACTURES - PIN A - DANCING- MASTER AND PUPIL — OCCUPA-
TIONS OF THE HIGHER CLASSES— MARRIAGES— DRIVE ON THE PRADO— THEATRE—
TERTULIA — DRESS OF THE NATIVES — COCK-FIGHTING— MARKET-FISHING-BOATS—
BAXCA— TRADE OF MANILLA— ENVIRONS OF THE CITY— CAMPO SANTO-BELLS AND
BELFRlEs^cONVENT- TAGALA TRIBE-TAGALA GRAMMAR-REVENUE OF THE PHI-
LIPPINES-SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT-EXPEDITION TO THE INTERIOR-SANTA ANNA
VOL. V. B

X CONTENTS.

— PATIVAS-PISHERIES ON THE RIVER AND LAKE— LAGUNA DE BAY— JALUJALU -
SANTA CRUZ— MISSION OF MAGJAIJAI— ASCENT OF MOUNT MAGJAIJAI— RETURN TO
THE MISSION— INSTANCE OF ECCLESIASTICAL DISCIPLINE— BAI A— HOT SPRINGS OF
BANOS— ASCENT OF MOUNT MAaUILING— LAKE DE TAAL—BANOS— MULTITUDE OP
BIRDS-SCENERY ON THE PASIG— RETURN TO MANILLA— PREPARATIONS FOR SAIL-
ING-DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA ...273-319

CHAPTER IX.

DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA— INSTRUCTIONS TO MR. KNOX— MINDORO— SEMARARA—
PANAY— FLYING -FISH LEAVES US-BAY OP ANTiaUE-SAN JOSE-MINDANAO-CAL-
DER A— FORESTS OF MINDANAO— SANG BOYS— SOOLOO-SOUNG— CANOES OF SOOLOO—
WE LAND AT SOOLOO— VISIT TO THE DATU MULU— HIS RESIDENCE— VISIT TO THE
SULTAN— HIS RESIDENCE— HIS PERSON AND DRESS— TREATY MADE WITH HIM— THE
HEIR APPARENT—WE ARE REFUSED PERMISSION TO VISIT THE INTERIOR— PISTOL
STOLEN— CHINESE QUARTER— THE KRIS-MARKET-BLOCKS OF AMERICAN GRANITE
—STOLEN PISTOL RETURNED— VISIT OP THE NATURALISTS TO MARONGAS-FISHING
APPARATUS — SURVEY OF THE HARBOUR OF SOUNG — SLAVES EMPLOYED AS AC-
COUNTANTS—BEASTS OF BURDEN— PROHIBITION OF SWINE-CHARACTER OF THE
PEOPLE OF SOOLOO— THEIR DRESS—OCCUPATIONS-STATE OF SOCIETY— MOUNTAIN
TRIBES— FORTS— POPULATION— COMMERCE— DUTIES— ADVICE TO TRADERS— POSSIBLE
EXTENSION OF TRADE— HISTORY OF SOOLOO— ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH EAST
INDIA COMPANY TO OPEN A TRADE— ATTEMPTS AT CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS
^GRANT OF BALAMBANGAN TO THE EAST INDIA COMPANY— ENGLISH SETTLEMENT
—ITS FATE— FORMER PROSPERITY OP SOOLOO-PIRACIES OF THE SOOLOOS— MALAY
PIRATES — THE BAJOWS — THEIR CHARACTER — CLIMATE OF SOOLOO — DISEASES—

F

REIJGION — DEPARTURE FROM SOOLOO— PANGOOTAARAANG — CAGAYAN SOOLOO —
MANGSEE ISLANDS-SURVEYS — BALAMBANGAN — BORNEO -THE DYACK3- THEIR
CHARACTER. MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS — NAVIGATION OF THE SOOLOO SEA— PAS-
SAGE TO SINGAPORE--ARR1VAL THERE— REUNION OP THE SQUADRON- PROCEED-
INGS OFTHE PORPOISE AND OREGON— NECKER ISLAND— FRENCH-FRIGATE SHOAL—
MARO REEF 321-367

CHAPTER X.

VARIETY OF SHIPPING IN THE ROADS -VIEW OP THE TOWN — AMERICAN CONSUL
—ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER— LANDING — VIEW FROM THE CONSULATE — GREAT
VARIETY OF COSTUMES, RACES, RELIGIONS, AND LANGUAGES-POLICE AND MILI-
TARY FORCE— HISTORY OF THE SETTLEMENT OF SINGAPORE-ITS GOVERNMENT-
TREATY OF 1824 -POLICY OF HOLLAND -CHEAPNESS OF BUILDING-SOCIETY —
ISLAND OF SINGAPORE— TIGERS — BOTANY AND CULTIVATED PLANTS — MODE OF
CONVEYANCE — CHINESE INHABITANTS — THEIR GAMBLING — THEIR APPEARANCE

CONTENTS. xi

AND DRESS-THEIR TEMPLE— THEIR FESTIVAL OF THE NEW VKAR-TMKIK THBATUf.
OALS-THEIR FUXERALS-FESTIVAL OF THE rilUlTE MAUOMEDAWS-AMUSEMKNTS
OF THE GENTOOg— BANISHED BRAIIMIN-MAllOMEOAN SECTS— CONVICTS— MARKET-
CURRENCY— TRADES— MALA YS- ARMENIA NS-P A RSEE9—ARABS-C AFFRES—MIXTU It K

OF RACES-CHINESE CEMETERY— GENTOO BURIAL-PLACE-MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY
—AMERICAN MISSIONARIES-PAPUAN SLAVES— MANUSCRIPTS-SHIP OF THE KING OF
COCHIN-CHINA— CHINESE JUNKS — TRADB OF SINGAPORE-TAXES-SLAVERY-OPIUM
SHOPS- SMALL PROPORTION OF FEMALES IN THE POPULATION — PENINSULA OF
MALACCA — ITS GOVERNMENT— ITS RELIGION — MALAY CEREMONIES AT BfRTilS.
MARRIAGES, AND FUNERALS— MALAY SACRIFICES— ANIMALS OF MALAYAN PENIN-
SULA-PROBABLE INFLUENCE OF STEAM ON THE TRADE OF THE EAST-RAVAGES
OF THE WHITE ANTS— CLIMATE OF SINGAPORE — SALE OF FLYING FISH — DEPAR-
TURE FROM SINGAPORE 371—410

CHAPTER XL

DEPARTURE FROM SING APORE— STRAITS OF RHIO— STRAITS OF BANCA— STRAITS OF
BUNDA— INDIAN OCEAN— CURRENTS AND METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA OFF THE
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE— ARRIVAL IN TABLE BAY— CAPE TOWN— GOVERNMENT OF THE
COLONY— TAXES— BANKING— WINE TRADE-CATTLE— IMPORT TRADE— HOTTENTOTS

— CA

ASTRONOMY AND MAGNETIC OBSERVA

TIONS— ASCENT OF TABLE MOUNTAIN — GREEN POINT— LIGHTHOUSE— EXCHANGE—
GARDEN OF THE BARON VON LUDWIG-CLIMATE OP THE CAPE-PUENOMENA OF

N

ST

HELENA — JAMESTOWN — VISIT TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON AND LONG WOOD —
MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY— PLANTATION- HOUSE-DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA —
PASSAGE TO THE UNITED STATES— ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK-CONCLUSION.. 413-453

CHAPTER XII.

CONNEXION OF THE SUBJECTS — OPPORTUNITIES AND MEANS OF OBSERVING CUR-
RENTS—DISTINCTION BETWEEN STREAMS AND CURRENTS — CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH ATLANTIC— LABRADOR STREAM— GULF STREAM— RENNELL CURRENT— SUB-
MARINE POLAR STREAMS -GUINEA STREAM— EQUATORIAL STREAM-RECAPITULA-
TION—SARGASSO SEA — STREAMS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC — BRAZIL STREAM —
PATAGONIAN STREAM— SOUTH AFRICAN STREAM— PHENOMENA OF THE NEIGHBOUR-
HOOD OF ST. HELENA— POLAR STREAM OFF CAPE HORN — ITS LOW SUBMARINE

NDI-

TEMPERATURE-CHILI STREAM— PHENOMENA AT THE GALLIPAGOS ISLANDS-
CATION OF SUBMARINE POLAR STREAMS— PHENOMENA AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS—
AT THE SAMOAN GROUP— AT THE FEEJEE GROUP— AUSTRALIAN STREAM-SOUTH-
ERN POLAR STREAM— NEW ZEALAND CURRENTS— CURRENTS BETWEEN TONGA AND
FEEJEE-SUDDEN RUSH OF WATERS ON THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS— SPACE OF VERY

J d -K ^ M

xii CONTENTS.

STREAMS— PHENOMENA

SANDWICH ISi^ANDS— STREAMS OF THE NORTHWEST COAST— JAPAN STREAM— CUB-
EENTS OF THE CHINA SEAS — OF THE EAST COAST OF AFRICA — EaCATORIAL
STREAM OF THE INDIAN OCEAN— CURRENTS OF THE MALABAR COAST, CHAGOS,
AND COMORRO ISLANDS-STREAMS OF THE MOZAMBiaUE CHANNEL— EQUATORIAL
STREAM OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC— GENERAL VIEW OF THE FACTS — ZONES OF
CALMS AND STILL WATERS-SUGGESTIONS IN RELATION TO THE THEORY OF CUR^
RENTS — CONNEXION OF THE OCEAN STREAMS WITH THE MIGRATIONS OF THE
BPERM WHALE— IMPORTANCE AND EXTENT; OF THE WHALING INTEREST— CRUIS-
ING-GROUND3 OF SPERM WHALERS— IN THE PACIFIC— IN THE ATLANTIC — IN THE
INDIAN OCEAN— DIRECTIONS FOR WHALING IN THE PACIFIC— RELATIVE TO THE
DECREASE OF WHALES— RIGHT WHALE FISHERY-DEPRAVED CHARACTER OF THE
NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIAN WHALERS-CASE OF THE AMERICAN WHALE-
SHIP ADELINE — RIGHT WHALE FISHERY IN HIGH LATITUDES — EXCITEMENT OF
THE FISHERY— SLAUGHTER AND TREATMENT OF THE PRODUCTS-PROFITS OP THE
BUSINESS-FREQUENCY OF DISPUTES BETWEEN THE MASTERS AND CREWS-REME-
DIES SUGGESTED— PROPOSAL FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE MORALS AND CONDI
TION OF THE CREWS • 457—502

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME V.

PLATES.

Oatapu Island.

Fakaafo or Bowditch Island.

Ficrs OR Banyan Tree.

Utiroa.

Mariapa.

Chief of Eta.

Astoria.

Pine Forest, Oregon,

Shaste Peak-

Encampment, Sacramento,

Manilla.

Maxilla Cottage.

Mosque, Sooloo.

Son- of Sultan, Sooloo.

Chinese Temple.

Sketched by A. T, Agate.

Engraved by W. E. Tucker,
Sketched by A. T, Agate.

Engraved by J. SniiUie,
Sketched by A. T. Agate,

Engraved by Rawdon, Wrigl
Sketched by A. T, Agate.

Engraved by T, House,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

3

14

26

52

Wright

56

Agate

Engraved by J. Paradise,
Sketched by A, T. Agate.

Sketched by J. Drayton.

Engraved by W. E. Tucker,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by G. B. Ellis,
Sketched by A, T. Agate.

Engraved by J. W. Steel,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. A. Rolph,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. Smillie,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. B. Neagle,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by F. Halpin,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. A. Rolph.

(«lil)

79

Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, 113

116

240

245

275

292

333

337

371

XIV

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VIGNETTES.

Trading, Apia.

Indian Burial-Place,

f INCENXES ON BaR,

Rice Stacks,

Long WOOD.

Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by E. Gallaudet,
Sketched by A. T, Agate.

Engraved by J. Sinillie,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. '

Engraved by A. W. Graham,
Sketched by J. Drayton.

Engraved by J. Smillie,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Smillie and Hinchelwood,

22

219

256

287

445

WOOD-CUTS.

Umon Island Canoe. Drawn by A. T. Agate, Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H, Pease,
From the Collection,* Engraved by R, S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A. T- Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

BowDiTCH Islander.
Drill.

Matetau.

11

12

17

30
34
38
39

46
Drummond's Island Warriors. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 48

BowDiTCH Islanders. Drawn by A. T. Agate * Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Ellick's Islander, • Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Costume, Ellice's Group. Drawn by A, T, Agate.* Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Drummond's Islander. Drawn by A, T, Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

Klngsmill Canoe,

Drawn by A. T, Agate. Engraved by R. S, Gilbert,

49

Woman, Drummond's Island. Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 51

Girl, Peru Island,
Makin Islander,
KiNGSAiiLL Arms.

Drawn by A. T, Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A, T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
From the Collection** Engraved by T. H, Mumford,

Inhabitant of Makin. Drawn by A. T. Agate, Engraved by T. H. Mumford,

KiNGSMiLL Idol.
Ramsey.
George.
Carved Planks.

Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J, Butler,
Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S, N.t Engraved by

67
73

75

83

110
Clarke, 114

Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.t Engraved by R. O'Brien,
Drawn by H. Eld. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

Masks, Northwest Indians. From the Collection. Engraved by J. J, Butler,
Pipes, Northwest Indians, Fronl the Collection. Engraved by*J, J, Butler,
Hats, Northwest Coast. From the Collection. Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Drawn by Dr. Pickering. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J, J, Butler,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Banca, ^Manilla.

Kative of Lu

114
123
146

146
148

188

192
214

Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.t Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 217
Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 2i23

226
242
250
260
272
292

FiSH-WEIR,

Pounding Acorns.

Indians Gambling.

Pack-saddles, &c.,

Callapuya Indian.

Umpqua Indian Girl. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Sacrasiento Indian. Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Shaste Hut.

Japanese.

Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by A, T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J, Butler,

LIST OF I L L U S T R A T I O x\ S.

XV

Manilla Costume.

Manilla Baxca.
Negrito Boy.
Sword, Manilla.
Haix;h£t, Manilla.

Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S, Gilbert,
From the Collection.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
From the Collection.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Environs, :\rANiLLA. Drawn by F. D. Stuart. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

Drawn by J. Drayton, Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Drawn by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S, Gilbert,
Drawn by J. Drayton » Engraved by J. J. Butler,
From the Collection. Engraved by J. J. Builer,
Drawn by T, R. Feale.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.* Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S. N, Engraved by R. S. G

Sararoa, .Manilla.

Caldera Fort.

SooLoo Canoe.

hol-ses, soung,

Riding, Sooloo.
SooLoo Arms.

Gentoo Monu;
Hottentots.

Refraction,

Cape of Good Hope. Drawn

Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

300
30:2
306
306
306
31:2
311)

32d
333
333
341
367
410
431
440
453

MAPS.

Western Groups, Pacific.

California. Engraved by Sherman and Smith,

William Smith,

SoOLOO

Engraved by Edward Yeager,

Currents and Whaling-Grolnds, Engraved by Sherman and Smith,
Those marked with a *, were drawn on the wood by G. Armstrong ;

Titue Page.

151

323
457

a t* by J. H. IManniug.

Artists

■ u

I

CHAPTEE

CONTENTS,

DEPARTURE FROM OAHU — WASHINGTON ISLAND — JAR VIS'S ISLAND — MAGNETIC
ECIUATOR — ENDERBURYS ISLAND — BIRNIES ISLAND — HULLS ISLAND — DUKE OP
YORK S ISLAND— ITS NATIVES VISIT THE SHIP— THEIR ALARM AT THE FIRING OF
CANNON — A PARTY LANDS — ITS RECEPTION— TATTOOING — VILLAGE — QUAYS- AB-
SENCE OF CULTIVATION — MUSIC — CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES— PRODUCTIONS —
DUKE OF CLARENCE'S ISLAND — BOWDITCHS ISLAND — NATIVES SEEN FISHING —
INTERVIEW WITH THEM — A PARTY LANDS — PRIEST — CAPTAIN HUDSON LANDS —
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING— VILLAGE AND TEMPLE— RELICS OF A VESSEL— WELL

— DRUMS — DRESS AND ORNAMENTS — MANUFACTURES AND TOOLS — POPULATION —
GENTE HERMOSAS-SAVAII—UPOLU— APIA— STORM OP DECEMBER I&40 — HURRICANES

— HAL03 — PEA, THE CHIEF OF APIA -MODE OF TRADING — IMPROVEMENTS -NEW
EFFORTS OF THE MISSIONARIES — MALIETO AS ILLNESS, AND ITS CAUSE — MOLE -
STRONG GALE— DESERTION FROM THE SURVEYING PARTY— DESERTERS RECOVERED
—DEMAND FOR THE MURDERER OP SMITH— IT IS REFUSED— EXCURSIONS OP THE
NATURALISTS— JOE GIMBLET— VISIT TO MALIETOA — RETURN OP THE BOATS-CAP-
TAIN HUDSON PROCEEDS TO SALUAFATA, AND DESTROYS IT — RESULTS OP THE
PUNISHMENT— FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—MATAATU— MALIETOA

-FAREWELL VISIT FROM THE CHIEF&-THE VESSELS SAIL FROM MATAATU.

A

*

.1^

i

•4

NAUEATIYE

OF

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER L

BOWDITCH ISLAND,

1840.

As has before been stated, the Peacock and Flying-Fish left Oahu
on the 2d December, 1840, under instructions which will be found in
Appendix VIIL, Vol IV. They steered off to the southward until
they reached the latitude of 5° N., and longitude 160*^ W., a position
in which it was thought that an island existed. This position was
carefully examined, until they were satisfied that there was no land at
or near the locality. They then steered for Washington Island, known
on the chart of Arrowsmith as New York Island, which was found
and surveyed. Its position is in latitude 4° 41' 35" N-, and longitude
160° 15' 37" W. It is three and a quarter miles long by one and a
fourth wide, and is entirely covered with cocoa-nut and other trees,
exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is a reef off its eastern
point, which extends for half a mile. At the western end, a coral ledge
extends two miles in a northwest-by-west direction, on which the
water appears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break
upon it, except close to the point of the island- The island is elevated
about ten feet above the sea. The surf proved too heavy to allow of

(3)

4 BOWDITCHISLAND,

their landing, and the island affords no anchorage. While off this
island, the current was found setting to the northeast, at the rate of
twelve miles in the twenty-four hours.

The positions in this neighbourhood where five islands have been
reported to exist, were diligently searched for eight days ; but no land
was seen, and Captain Hudson became satisfied that none but Wash-
ington Island is to be found.

On the 20th December, they made Jarvis's Island, in latitude 0° 22'
33" a, and longitude 159^ 54' 11" W. This is a small coral island,
triangular in shape, a mile and three-fourths .in length east and west,
and'a mile wide north and south. It exhibits the appearance of a white
sand-beach, ten or twelve feet above the sea, without a tree or shrub,
and but a few patches of grass. The sea breaks violently around its
shores, but no reef extends to any distance from the island, which may
be closely approached. A few sea-birds were seen about the island.
No landing could be attempted, the surf being too heavy. Captain
Hudson considers this a dangerous island for navigators.

The Peacock and Flying-Fish, for the next fifteen days, were en-
gaged in searching for Brooks's Island, Clark's Reef and various
shoals ; but without success, and, after examining the neighbouring
sea, left the locality, fully satisfied that if any islands or shoals had
existed, in or near the places assigned to them, they must have been
seen. They experienced here a current, setting to the westward at
the rate of a mile an hour. Captain Hudson remarked, that although
they had experienced generally a current setting to the westward, yet,
almost invariably, the current-log gave a contrary result.

In latitude 2^ 55' S., longitude 160^ 26' W., they found, by the
dipping-needle, that they had reached the magnetic equator, which
they followed until they reached longitude 171"^ W.

On the 9th January, 1841, they made Enderbury's Island, of the
Phcenix Group, which has before been spoken of, as seen in the route
of the Vincennes from the Feejee to the Sandwich Islands.

On the 11th, they made and surveyed Bh'nie's Island, which lies
southwest from Enderbury's, in latitude 3° 34' 15" S., longitude 171
33' W. It has an elevation of no more than six feet above the sea; is
about one mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, trending about
northwest and southeast. It is but a strip of coral, apparently uplifted,

and is exceedingly dangerous for vessels, as it cannot be seen from a
distance, and a vessel, in thick weather, would scarcely have time to
avoid it after it was discovered.

A number of islands and reefs, reported to exist, were searched for
in this neighbourhood, viz.: Mary Balcout's, Brothers', Robertson's,

I

i

i

v

i

B O \V D I T C H I S L A N D. 5

Phoenix, Harper's, and others, laid down, but not naoied, all of which
are believed to have no existence whatever.

On the 17th January they nnade llull's Island, which has already
been described, and was surveyed by the Vinccnnes. The party of
Tahitians ennployed in taking turtles had left it. Captain Hudson,
believing this to be Sydney Island, ran off forty-five miles to the west-
ward, for Hull's Island, but, of course, saw nothing of it, as it lies that
distance to the eastward, in the sanne latitude.

The position of an island supposed to exist in latitude 5° 23' S.,
and longitude 173° 25' W., was passed, but no signs of land were
seen. They then ran over the supposed place of Fletcher's Island,
in latitude 7^ 02' S., longitude 173^ 22' W., without seeing any shoal,
island, or reef.

The effects of the rainy season were now felt in these latitudes, in
sudden gusts of wind, with torrents of rain, that continued for a few
hours of the night, and cleared up partially towards sunrise, after
w^hich the weather continued cloudy throughout the day, with squalls
visible in various parts of the horizon. Our experience corroborated
the generally conceived idea that this kind of weather usually occurs
near small islands; but that these isolated spots, of such comparatively
small size, can exert so great an influence in arresting and condensing
the vapour, is not to me a satisfactory explanation. I am rather
inclined to believe that it results more from the fact of the high tem-
perature of the ocean in the neighbourhood, it being here nearly 90^,
or several degrees greater than that of any other part of the ocean ;
consequently, the evaporation w^ould go on much more rapidly, which,
becoming condensed in the higher portion of the atmosphere, is again
thrown dowm in copious streams at night. This is particularly the
case when the trade-winds are interrupted, that would otherwise carry
off the vapour. As far as respects the interrupting or arresting the
flow of currents, these islands may exert some influence; but the main
cause I should be inclined to impute to the high temperature acquired
by the water in consequence of there being no currents.

The next day they proceeded to the Duke of York's Island, which
they made on the 25th, in latitude 8"^ 36' S., longitude 172^ 23' 52"
W. This is a lagoon island, of coral formation: its length east and
west is three miles, and its width tw^o and a half miles, north and
south. There is no passage into the lagoon ; the sea breaks on the
reef with violence; but at high water a boat may pass over without
difficulty, if proper care is taken. The islets that have been formed on
the reef are eight or ten feet above the water, and are covered with
cocoa-nut and pandanus trees.

A2

6 BOWDITCH ISLAND.

As they approached the island, three double canoes were seen
coming towards the ship, but with great caution; the mizzen-topsail
was backed to allow them to come up, which they did, singing and
shouting, making many gestures, and waving pieces of matting. A
white flag was waved in return, and various articles exhibited to induce
them to come alongside, which they at last did ; but no inducement
could prevail on them to come on board.

The canoes were all double, made of pieces of wood sewed together
like those of Samoa, and were ornamented in like manner with white
ovula-shells- The blades of their paddles also resembled those of
the Samoans, being oblong and slender. The colour and features
of these people showed that they belonged to the Polynesian race, and it
was observed there was little or no difference between their appearance
and that of the Samoans, to which dialect their language was allied.
A Samoan who was on board the Peacock could partially understand
them, but not unfrequently was entirely at a loss ; Mr. Hale, however,
was enabled to comprehend many of the words. It appeared that their
refusal to come on board proceeded from the singular apprehension
that the ship would be lifted out of the water, and taken up to the sky,
from which they believed she had descended. Some few of them got
as far up as the gangway, one of whom had an ulcerated arm, which
he desired might be cured.

In each canoe there were ten men, who wore the maro, which was
braided like matting. On their head was a piece, made in some cases
of matting, in others of tortoise-shell, and occasionally this ornament
resembled an eye-shade, or the front of a cap, to protect the face from
the sun; their hair was cut short, and was the same in character as
that of the Polynesians; they wore necklaces of shells, and small pieces
of sponge, and wreaths of pandanus-leaves around the neck. Only one
of those in the canoes seemed to be a person of note: in his shade were
stuck several of the tail-feathers of the tropic-bird. A plane-iron and
some blue beads were seen in their possession : this, w^ilh their know-
ledge of trade and desire of carrying it on, proved that they had before
had intercourse with ships. They exhibited great expertness in show-
ing off their various articles to view, and were very eager to sell in
order to obtain our articles.

They had matting, nets, fish-hooks of bone, wooden boxes, paddles,
and miniature canoes. Whilst the bartering was going on, the ship
fired a great gun, for the base by sound, with the tender. This
created much consternation, and they all scrambled into their canoes
under strong excitement, making a prodigious clamour, seized their
paddles, and pulled for the island, in great trepidation.

B O W D I T C H I S T. A N D. 7

After the natives had thus made a precipitate retreat, the boats
were lowered, and a large party proceeded to land at the nearest
point. The landing was effected on the coral shelf with some diffi-
culty, and they found the natives, who had come alongside, ready
to receive them, with every sign of friendship. They had apparently
recovered from their alarm, and met the officers before they reached
the beach, greeting them by rubbing noses and throwing llieir arms
around their necks. Their excitement seemed to be so great that it
was difficult for them to continue still for a moment, distracted by
the numerous novel things around them. Some of them, however,
w^ere exceedingly shy, and would not suffer themselves to be ap-
proached ; others had greater confidence, but at the same time showed

a respectful fear; while a few put their arms round the officers* necks,
and exhibited a boldness devoid of dread of any kind. The latter

urged the party to accompany them to their village. These different
states of feeling were associated with a peculiar mode of singin
which they would continue for some time, during which nothing could
induce them to stop; this ended, their astonishment and excitement
would again appear to find relief in vociferating wath great volubility
for several minutes, at the end of which they would break out in a
hearty laugh, without the least apparent cause. These islanders are
tattooed on the cheeks, breast, legs, and above the hips.

A part of these marks consisted of two rows of lines running from
the tip of the ear across the cheek and nose, with small crosses
between. There were others passed around the body below the
chest; many marks resembling fish wxre on the arms, and a sort
of triangle, together with figures of turtles, on the breast. On the
legs were many concentric rings. The markings were distinct and
peculiar.

Their village, to which our party went, was on the inner or lagoon
side of the island, and contained about thirty houses, which were
raised about a foot above the surrounding earth : they were of oblong
shape, about fifleen feet high to the ridge-pole, sloping gradually, and
of a convex form to within two or three feet of the ground ; the roof
was supported on high posts, whilst the lower part rested on short
ones, three feet within the eaves, having a strong piece extending
around, on which the rafters are tied; the gable-ends were over-
topped by the roof, and seemed necessary to protect them from the
weather. Below the eaves, the whole was open from the ground to
the roof. The thatching, made of pandanus-Ieaves, was of great
thickness, and put on loosely. The interior of the houses was very
clean, but there was no furniture except a few gourds, and a reclining

8 BOWDITCHISLAITD.

stool, cut from a solid block of wood, having two legs at one end,
which inclined it at an angle of nearly forty-five degrees : to show
the manner of lying in it, they imitated a careless and comfortable
lounge, which they evidently considered a luxury. It was conjec-
tured that they had removed their various household utensils to a
secret place.

The most remarkable constructions of the islanders near the village,
were three small quays, five or six feet wide, and two feet above the
water, forming slips about ten feet wide: at the end of each of these
was a small house, built of pandanus-leaves, partly on poles in the
water. These appeared to be places for securing their canoes, and for
the purpose of keeping their fishing implements. Three canoes were
seen lying a short distance off* in the lagoon, filled with the women
and children. This was a precaution adopted to enable them to
escape if it became necessary; yet they did not seem to apprehend
any hostility. No kind of war implements was observed among them,
and their bodies exhibited no marks of strife with each other.

There was an open space in the town, covered with coral-sand
and pebbles, which they called mate. When they were asked by
Mr. Hale for their "fale atua,*^ (house of God,) they pointed to a
place at a distance, and evidently understood the meaning of the

question.

There was no cultivation whatever, and their only food appeared
to be the cocoa-nut and fish. There were no animals seen, no fowls,
dogs, or hogs. Captain Hudson left there a few young pigs, of which
the natives took charge, but they did not evince that surprise which
was expected at the sight of an unknown animal.

They have no water on the island, and the supply is wholly obtained
from excavations made in the body of the cocoa-nut trees, two feet
from the ground. These trees are all dug out on the lee side, towards
which all are more or less inclined. These excavations are capable
of containing five or six gallons of water.

Our gentlemen were under the impression that they saw the whole
population, and counted forty male adults, which, on the supposition
that they were one-third, would make the population one hundred and
twenty.

This Island was discovered by Byron, in 1765, who reported it as
destitute of inhabitants. The natives gave the name of their island
as Oatafu, and acknowledged themselves the subjects of a chief who
lived on a neighbouring island, called Fakaafo, pointing to a southerly
direction. With this exception, they did not appear to possess the
knowledge of any other islands but their own-

BOWDITCHISLAND. 9

Their idea was that the ship had come from the sky, and that the
officers were divinities ; the question whether they were so was con-
stantly repeated, and although every endeavour was made to convince
them to the contrary, yet the disclaimer produced no efTcct. Their
continual singing and chaunting was supposed to arise from the desire
to propitiate us.

When a number of the officers had collected in the mala?, the two
oldest of the men, seating themselves on the ground, with two short
sticks, commenced chaunting and drumming on a large stick, whilst
another wrapped a net about his middle, and began to dance: the more
they were interrupted, the more vigorous became their efforts, both in
the song and dance.

These islanders were thought by all to be a docile, harmless people,
although they possessed, in common with all other savages, a strong
propensity to theft. Many of the officers lost small articles out of
their pockets, which were no doubt taken at the time of their affec-
tionate embraces. Just as they were leaving the island, a hatchet was
missed, which was supposed to be stolen ; on the loss being made
known to them, a prodigious excitement ensued. The old chief, or he
who had been pointed out as the " alike," jumped up with much energy,
and made a speech with a stentorian voice and excessive volubility,
while his whole frame was agitated. The natives immediately sepa-
rated in all directions, and in a short time the missing hatchet was
produced.

They had no knowledge of the use of tobacco, so general among the
other islanders of Polynesia, and when shown some, they made signs
to know if it was edible. On being given a cigar, they examined it
very closely, and being induced to light it, attempted to imitate the
motions of smoking; but instead of drawing in the breath to ignite
it, pursued a directly opposite course, and very soon returned it with
some agitation, apparently rejoiced to get rid of it. The natives ac-
companied them in a body to the beach, and saw them safely into the
boats.

Dip and intensity observations were made here; they likewise had
a perpendicular cast of the lead, half a mile from the shore, with three
hundred fathoms ; but they found no bottom.

Nineteen varieties of trees were found, some of which were of a
large growth; among which were seen large
with Asplenium and Polypodium, species of ferns, which gave it quite
a venerable appearance ; a pandanus more than thirty feet high. A
tree, believed to be a Pisonia, was more than twenty feet in circum-
ference at its base, and about forty feet high. A beautiful species of

VOL. V. 3

Toumefortia

10 BOWDITCH ISLAND.

ficus, the Cape jessamine of Tahiti, and the " nono," used as a dye,
were both growing wild.

Some tame oceanic pigeons, plovers, and a noddy, were seen about
their town, with numerous water-fowl, but no land-birds. Rats were
numerous, as was also a large black lizard.

On the 26th, the vessels sailed for the Duke of Clarence Island, but,
owing to the unfavourable state of the weather, they did not reach it
until the 28th, though only a few miles distant, when it was surveyed,
and found to be seven and two-tenths miles long, in a north and south
direction, and five miles wide from east to west. It is of a triangular
shape, with the apex to the north. It has a lagoon similar to that of
the Duke of York's, with islets in it ; the northwest side is a bare reef,
or wash, on which the sea breaks heavily- After the survey was
effected, Captain Hudson found it impossible to land to hold communi-
cation with the natives, but has no doubt of its being inhabited, as it
was spoken of by the inhabitants of the Duke of York's Island as
belonging to the same people, and was called by them Nukunono. No
opening was perceived into the lagoon, and there were many cocoa-nut
and other trees on the island.

On the 28th, in the afternoon, they bore away for the purpose of
looking for the islands of Gente Hermosas of Quiros, During the
night the weather was squally, with heavy rain, accompanied with
thunder and lightning; aud it is a source of regret, that at this time
the rain-gauge was out of repair, and no observations were made as to
the quantity which fell, or its temperature.

At 2^ SO'" A. M., whilst Lieutenant Emmons had the deck, the night
being very dark, and the weather clear, he heard the distant sound of
surf; soon afterwards the wind changed, when land was discovered
close to the vessel, bearing northeast. They made signal to the tender,
and hove-to till daylight, when the largest island they had yet seen was
within two miles of the ship.

This proved to be a new discovery, as it was not to be found on any
chart. The island, which I have named Bowditch, agreeably to the
wish of Captain Hudson, was of coral formation, and its shape is that
of a triangle, with the apex to the south. From north to south it is
eight miles long, and in width, from its west point, four miles. On its
southwest and north points the land is of considerable elevation, and
the more elevated parts are connected by an extensive coral reef, that
is awash. On the east side the land is more continuous, and on three
parts there are extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees and shrubbery.
There is no entrance for a vessel to the lagoon, which, from the appear-
ance of the water, has but little depth.

BOWDITCH ISLAND. H

At daylight, eighteen canoes, with four or five persons in each, were
seen off the end of the island, apparently on a fishing excursion : they
disregarded the vessels altogether, and continued their occupation, with-
out taking any notice of them, and as if unwilling to lose the opportunity
of taking the fish. The fish seemed to be extremely numerous, if the
actions of the birds were to be taken as an indication, for immense
numbers of them were seen darting into and rising from the sea every
moment-

As the natives refused to come near the ship, Captain Hudson ordered
two boats to be sent to open a communication with them. They were
taking fish after the manner of the Samoans, by trolling a line, it being
fastened by a pole eight or ten feet long to the stern of the canoes, and
elevated above the surface to a sufficient height to allow the fish-hook,
which was made of shell or bone, to drag along the surface of the
water; as their canoes were propelled, the fish, attracted by the glisten-
ing of the hook, eagerly caught at it, and were taken.

The canoes were single, with out-riggers, and resembled those of
Samoa, being partly decked over the fore part, and with the same
small protuberances or pegs, to which were fastened the ovula-shell.
No sails were observed, but a small model of a canoe, purchased
among the curiosities, had the usual triangular saiL

UNION GROUP

The natives were at first very shy of the boats ; but the Hawaiians
who were in them, soon induced them to approach, and enter into
trade, and finally enticed them alongside the ships. On coming near,
they began a song or chaunt, holding up their paddles and mats, and
shouting " kafilou tamatau." They resembled the natives of Oatafu, or
Duke of York's Island, wore the same kind of mats, eye-shades, and
ornaments, and some were tattooed after the same manner. Some,
however, were tattooed in a different style, being ornamented with a
variety of arrows on the forehead and cheeks. They w^ere all finely
formed, and manly in appearance, with pleasin
expressed good-nature.

countenances

o o

disposed

had to exchange ; a few presents were also made them, but all induce-
ments failed to entice them on board. They appeared very cheerful,
laughing heartily at any thing that struck them as ridiculous.

12

BOWDITCH ISLAND.

The annexed wood-cut is from an accurate sketch by Mr. iVgate, and
exhibits the tattooing above spoken of.

V i

-JT '

"^illlill !P*^

ittii'

llitoi^

BOWDITCH ISLANDER,

There was a necessity now for beginning the duties of the survey,
and guns were to be fired for bases by sound. Attempts were made
before the firing, to explain to them what was to be done, in hopes
their fears nnight not be excited, and thus cause their desertion, as at
the Duke of York's Island ; but the moment the first gun was fired,
they hurried oflT for a short distance to hold a parley. The second
gun caused them to start at full speed for the land, and they did not
slacken their efforts until they reached it.

Three boats, with several of the officers, landed on the southwest
point of the island, whither four or five canoes accompanied them,
the confidence of the natives being restored. When they came near
the reef, the surf was found to be breaking heavily on it, w^hich
caused them to hesitate in attempting to land at that place ; but, after
looking for some distance, and finding no better place, they deter-
mined to try it. The natives, in the mean time, had been passing
through the surf, by placing their canoes on the heaviest roller, and,
paddling with great energy, reached the beach upon it, without diffi-
culty.

Following their example, our boats landed with the same ease and

safety.

The islet on which they now were was covered with cocoa-nut
trees, but there were no houses upon it. They called it Fakaafo,
which w as the same as the natives of Oatafu had designated as the

BOW DITCH ISLAND. J3

island where their great chief lived. Oalafu was well known here, as
well as the Duke of Clarence's Island, w^hicli they called Nnkunono.
It was observed that they spoke of their ow^n island as the Fanua Loa,
or the Great Land; and it, with the two islands just referred to, were
all the lands of which they had any knowledge.

The only person our officers saw who appeared to have any
authority, was an old man, whom they called Taufaiga, and desig-
nated as a priest, and who w^as considered fakatapa (sacred). The
name they gave to the god of the island was Tui-Tokelau, wliose
residence was pointed out as being in the skies. Mr. Hale, by his
questions, elicited that they called their great deity by the same
name, with the customary addition of Tagaloa ilaya-i-te-layi — Tagaloa
above in the heavens. They ascribed our origin to the same place,
and could not be convinced that we were not deities, but only men
(tagata lava).

Near the south end of the island was a small lagoon of salt water.

Towards sunset, the natives gave them notice that it was time for
them to return to their tow^n, upon which our party embarked and
joined the ship.

During the night, they had heavy rains, and stood on and off the
island. In the morning. Captain Hudson landed, opposite the islet on
which the town was situated, w^ith four boats. The surf w^as breaking
heavily, and they were well drenched, being obliged to wade over the
reef, which w^as from knee to waist deep.

The king and about two hundred natives awaited their approach.
The former was seated in advance, wath about twenty old men ; the
rest stood behind, and all began to gesticulate and chaunt, as if under
great excitement- They pointed to the sun and howled, spreading

-1.

mats, and making motions for our party to be seated. Our gentlemen
complied with their request, and the king, after embracing Captain
Hudson, rubbed noses, pointed to the sun, howled, moaned, rubbed his
nose over the captain's chin, hugged him again and again, put a mat
around his waist, securing it with a cord of human hair, repeating the
rubbing of noses, and howled for tw^enty minutes. The same ceremony
was gone through with by minor chiefs, with the other officers.

The king, whose name was Taupe, w^as somewhat advanced in
years, with a grave countenance. He had a sickly look, and his legs
were much affected wnth the elephantiasis. Notwithstanding this,
however, he w^ould have been deemed a fine-looking man. He was
thought to be under much greater agitation from fear than any of his
subjects. The moment Captain Hudson attempted to leave his side, he
would set up a most piteous howl and point to the men. He continued

B

14 BO WD ITCH ISLAND.

to repeat, In a tremulous and agitated tone, " Nopo kilalo, mataku au"
(sit down, I am afraid). A continued desire was manifested that our
people shoukl depart, and take the presents tliey had offered.

Every endeavour was made to quiet their fears, and to convince
them that our people did not come from the sun ; but nearly an hour
elapsed before they were tranquillized. After this, they became more
familiar ; but their manners continued to evince the same mixture of
timidity and friendliness that had been observed at Oatafu. They were
induced to trade after they were quieted, when fish-hooks and knives
were in great request, for w^hich mats, fishing implements, model canoes
two or three feet long, wooden boxes with covers, cut out of the solid
wood, and cocoa-nuts, were given.

When the king had been presented with a variety of articles, he gave
in return a mat and maro, after which he made a move towards his
town, a few hundred yards distant, whither the whole party followed
him. It was with difficulty that he could walk, in doing which he
required the aid of an assistant. He at first objected to their accom-
panying him, saying it was " e sa" (sacred). The whole islet was
covered with a grove of cocoa-nut trees, under whose shade about
sixty houses were scattered, only a few yards from each other, and
resembling those described at Oatafu, though better built and larger.

The most remarkable building was that which they said was their
" tui-tokelau" (house of their god). This stood in the centre, and was
of an oblong shape, fifty by thirty-five feet, and about twenty feet in
height. The roof was supported in the centre by three posts, two feet
in diameter, while under the place on w^hich the rafters rested, w^ere
many short and small posts: all were very roughly hevyn, and placed
only a few feet asunder. The roof was concave, and extended beyond
the posts at the eaves; the thatching was tied together, which, hanging
down, resembled at a distance the curtain of a tent or marquee. All
the sides w^ere open, excepting a small raihng, about fifteen inches high,
around the foundation, which allowed the free passage of the air
through. It was one of the most beautiful and pleasant spots, and is
well represented in the opposite plate, from a drawing by Mr. Agate.
They were at first unwilling that the officers should enter; but upon the
explanation, that what was taboo for them, would not be so for the
Papalangis, they w^ere admitted by an old priest, but not without reluc-
tance.

The edifice contained but little furniture. Around the eaves a row

of mother-of-pearl shells was suspended, giving the appearance of a
scolloped curtain. The w^hole was covered with mats. In the centre,
around the largest pillar, a great number of enormous benches, or

ri

H^

BOW DITCH ISLAND. 15

m

tables, were piled, which were carved out of the solid wood, and being
of rude workmanship, were clumsy and ill-shaped. In all probability
these w^ere the reclining stools before spoken of. The natives termed
them " the seats of their god." Their gods, or idols, — tui-tokclau,
were placed on the outside, near by. The largest of these was fourteen
feet high and eighteen inches in diameter. This was covered or
enveloped in mats, and over all a narrow one w^as passed, shawd-
fashion, and tied in a knot in front, with the ends hansino; down. The

G"'0

smaller idol was of stone, and four feet high, but only partially covered
with mats. About ten feet in front of the idols was one of the hewn
tables, which was hollowed out : it was four feet long by three broad,
and the same in height. Near these was seen the barrel of a small
windlass, which the natives said had belonged to a small vessel
formerly wrecked on the island, and that only two of the men had been
saved, who had since died. This was not the only relic of the disaster,
for some of the beams were also seen. Mr. Hale made many inquiries
relative to this matter, and they gave him the names of the men who
were saved. He surmises, from their having Polynesian terminations,
that it might have been a vessel with Sandwich Islanders on board,
and he is somewhat strengthened in this opinion by finding the word
" debolo" in use among them. The word had puzzled him at first, for
the Sandwich Islanders had adopted it to express " the devil" There
it was used as ** o debolo," and signified an ancient god, Atua tafito.

In the malce, around the largest pillar, were many spears and clubs,
all much battered and worn, which had likewise been picked up from
the sea, and resembled those of Feejee and Samoa, These were called
" la-kau-tau" (wood of war) ; but they had no specific name for the
different kinds. These were the only warUke weapons seen among
them. A number of war-conchs were on the tables.

The well which supplied water was a short distance from the malse.
It was walled up, was about fifteen feet deep, and surrounded on the
top by a high fence. The water was about two feet deep, and great
care was taken to preserve it clean and pure.

The part of the town facing the sea was built up with a very good
stone wall ; along this were several small houses, while on the shore
of the lagoon w^as a row of canoe-houses, some fifty in number. The
canoes were some distance oflTin the lagoon, filled with the women and

children.

Although they showed a decided disapprobation of the presence of
our officers, yet they made no opposition to their examining the village.
In some of the houses were found children and a few women ; the old
queen was discovered, hid under a mat, who, when found, w^as in great

16 BOWDITCH ISLAND.

terror. In contrast with the old queen, the younger females appeared
very good-looking and well shaped.

The natives all showed a constant anxiety for the departure of our
people, frequently repeating expressions which were interpreted that
they w^ere tired of their company; but all this time they carried on an
active trade, and exhibited their thieving disposition very strongly.
The officers lost many small articles, which were pilfered very dexter-
ously ; and if any things were dropped or suffered to be out of sight a
moment, they were instantly concealed or made away with. Mr. Rich,
w^hen near the boat, gave his botanical collecting-case to a native to
hold, who, the moment his back was turned, ran off with it; and it
required a hard chase to overtake him.

In one part of the village, two drums were seen : one of these was
a trough resembling those at the Fcejee and Tonga Islands ; the other
w^as a cylindrical frame, set upright in the ground, with a piece oi^
shark's skin drawn tightly over it, like those of Hawaii: the latter was
beaten like our drums, with two sticks, and was intended as an accom-
paniment to dancing ; for when it was beaten, the natives began that
exercise. The motions of the dance were similar to those observed in
other parts of Polynesia, only more varied.

The younger portion of the community, of both sexes, were naked ;
while those more advanced in life wore the maro, which in the men
was from six to eighteen inches wide. Some of these were very fine
in texture, and bordered with fringe. The maro worn by the elder
and it was presumed married women, consisted of a great number of
leaves tied to a cord, and then slit into fine threads. These were kept
well oiled and perfectly pliable, and formed a huge apron, resembling
a bundle of straw tied around the loins : it was almost impossible
to conceive a more unwieldy or ridiculous dress ; its weight was
about fifty pounds, which may give some idea of its size; if it were
rolled up, it w^ould never have been recognised as a part of female
attire.

Their ornaments consisted of necklaces of shells and bone, ear-rings
of the same, and false curls in front. It w^as observed, that their hair
appeared to be thinner than that of the other islanders, though their
heads did not approach to baldness.

In manufactures they seemed quite apt. They had two kinds of
mats, the one about four feet square for sleeping, the other for clothing:
they evinced some ingenuity in these, as well as in their fish-hooks,
which were made of bone, shark's teeth, and shell ; many of these were
small and remarkably neat. They also had saws and files, formed
of shark's skin stretched on sticks, which in their hands were quite

1

B O W D I T C H ISLAND.

17

efleciive in wearing away the soft wood, &c. The construction of
their drill was ingenious: it was pointed with a hard stone, and the

it and producing the circular motion can be more

mode of using

DniLL.

readily comprehended by reference to the wood-cut.

The motion is communicated by a vertical movement of the hand,
and when practised by a native, is
exceedingly rapid. Their boxes or
buckets are of various sizes, from the

capacity of a gill to that of a gallon;
they are cut out of the solid wood, and
the top or lid is fitted in a neat manner.
These are used to keep their fish-hooks
and other small articles in, to preserve
them from the wet. Like the natives
of Oatafu, they do not appear to culti-
vate anv thinrr but derive their food
from the cocoa-nut and pandanus,
which are the only edible vegetable
articles that grow on the island ; but
the far greater portion of their food is
drawn from the sea. That they have sufficient nutriment, is amply

proved by their robust and healthy looks.

The population of this island is supposed to be about six hundred
souls, most of whom dwell in the town. Those that were seen on
Oatafu are supposed to belong to this island also; and it will be
remembered that their canoes w^ere there double ones, while all those
seen at Bow^ditch Island w^ere single. Throughout all Polynesia the

This will

reconcile the fact that Oatafu, or Duke of York Island, when first
visited, w^as found uninhabited, as is particularly mentioned by its
discoverer.

After a slay of three hours at their town, Captain Hudson yielded
to the pressing desire of the natives to get rid of him, and ordered all
the officers and men to the boats. The natives showed their delight
at this move, and were very assiduous in assisting their visiters to
embark. The confusion of embarkation was taken advantage of by
them, and numerous small articles were stolen, w^hich were not missed
till afterwards. Many of these thefts were committed in the most
barefaced manner, and it is believed that they would have gone to
much greater lengths, if they had not been restrained by their fears.

Along the coral reef were w^alls of coral, in the form of piers, eight
or ten feet high, and from twenty-five to thirty feet long.

double canoe is used in navigating from island to island.

VOL. v.

B2

3

18 BOW DITCH ISLAND.

There was no sign of places for cooking, nor any appearance of fire,
and it is believed that all their provisions are eaten raw. What
strengthened this opinion, was the alarm the natives felt when they
saw the sparks emanating from the flint and steel, and the emission of
smoke from the mouths of those who were smoking ci^^ars.

Dip and intensity observations were made here*

Upon reaching the ship. Captain Hudson determined to bear away
for the situation of the island of the Gente Hermosas of Quiros,

They had reached the vicinity on the 3 1st of January, where they
searched until the following day, when ihcy made land, but were
unable to finish the survey of the island for four days. Boats were
sent to effect a landing, but the surf was found to be too heavy, and
one that approached too near was caught in the rollers and thrown on
the coral reef, fortunately without harm to any of the crew ; the boat,
however, was somewhat injured.

The position of this island is in longitude 170*^ 55' 15" W., and
latitude 11° 05' S. ; it is of coral formation, but has no lagoon; it is
nearly round, and four miles and three-tenths in circumference ; it

I

may be classed w^ith the high coral islands, and is elevated from
fifteen to twenty-five feet above the level of the sea; it is well wooded
with cocoa-nuts, pandanus, and other trees and shrubs. The sea
breaks constantly on all parts, and no safe landing exists. Its situa-
tion differs from the position laid down for that of Quires. Captain
Hudson therefore called it Swain's Island, after the master of a
whaler, who had informed him of its existence. When within a mile
of the island, no bottom could be had with two hundred fathoms of
line. This isolated spot gave no other evidence of its ever having
been inhabited, except the groves of cocoa-nut trees. Pigeons, similar
to those seen at the Samoan Group, w^ere observed-
After securing observations for its position, the vessels bore away
for Upolu, with the westerly breeze, which had continued for the last
eight days, and been almost constant. This will serve to show that
there is no real difficulty in the population of Polynesia migrating
from west to east during this season of the year, when the trade-winds
are almost entirely interrupted.

Until the 4th of February they had bad weather, and heavy squalls
accompanied with thunder and lightning.

On the 5lh of February, the mountains of Savaii were dimly
visible, although they were between fifty and sixty miles oK On
the 6th, they were off the island of Upolu, w^hen Captain Hudson,
to lose no time, despatched the tender, with two boats, to survey the
south side of the island, while the launch, with the first cutter, was

BOW DITCH ISLAND. 19

t

to be sent round its cast end, in order to complete the work in the
least possible time. In the afternoon, the Peacock anchored in Apia
Harbour.

Many minor things at Apia had changed, after an absence of fifteen
months. Much of this was to be imputed to the diflercnt season of
the year, it being now the rainy season; and from this cause, the luxu-
riance of growth had enveloped every thing in a sprightly green, that
embosomed the village and white walls of the new^ church, of which
the foundation was just laid at our former visit.

The day of their arrival was the Samoan Sabbath, and all was quiet
and peaceful. Some of the officers landed in the afternoon, and were
greeted by many of their old friends.

The improvements, beside the church, w^ere a store and dwelling-
house, built by Mr. Cunningham, Her Britannic Majesty's Vice-Con-
sul, who is likewise about erecting a saw-mill. The church is a very
creditable building, and quite neat in its appearance, with walls of
stone, and roofed after the native fashion. Near by are deposited the
bones of the lamented missionary, Mr. Williams, and of Mr. Harris,
which were brought here from Erromango by H. B. M# sloop Fa-
vourite, Captain Croker, w^ho himself has since fallen in his endea-
vours to forward the missionary cause.

The missionary brig Camden, which had just returned from a cruise
to Raratonga Island, was at anchor in the harbour.

As this was the season of bad weather. Captain Hudson made every
arrangement to meet it; for the harbour of Apia is somewhat exposed
to both the sea and the north wind, from which quarter it is said to
blow most violently.

On the 12th of December preceding, they had experienced there a
violent hurricane, which had blown down many trees, and done a
great deal of damage to the fruit.

We are indebted to Mr. Cunningham for some observations on this
storm, which are as follows.

■

On the 12th of December, 1840, they had light winds from the
southeast, the upper strata of clouds flying from southwest. The
wind continued to increase until the 16th, when heavy squalls w^ere
experienced from the northeast. At 2 a. m. the w^ind was very heavy
from the southeast, accompanied with rain, and some houses w^ere
blown down ; at half-past tw^o, the gusts were very heavy from the
south-southeast. The barometer, although an injured one, fell as low as
24 in., its ordinary standing being 28 in. ; the temperature was 88^
At G A. M., the wind again rose with rapidity, blowing down houses
and trees, stripping them of their leaves, which filled the air in all

20 BOWDITCH ISLAND.

directions; the blasts were very severe at intervals of ten minutes.
At 8 A. M,, a sudden shift of wind took place to the southwest; after
which it moderated, and at noon the weather became clear, the wind
still continuing from the southwest, while the upper stratum of clouds
was now seen to pass over from the northeast. The following day
the wind was in the same direction, with fine clear weather* Mr.
Cunningham observes, that the houses were generally blown down
after the change of wind occurred.

The natives relate the occurrence of a similar gale, which did great
damage, about nine years before, destroying all the plantations; and,
from their account, its changes took place in a similar manner, from
the northeast to the southwest.

From the great full of the barometer, and the fury and sudden change
of the gale of the IGth, its centre must have passed over Apia.

Although these severe hurricanes do not happen very frequently at
the Samoan Islands, yet, from reports that I received, T am disposed
to believe that they occur very frequently between them' and the
Friendly Islands, where scarcely a season passes without some one of
the islands suffering from one of these awful calamities-
It would therefore be advisable for our whale-ships to avoid cruis-
ing in the neighbourhood of these groups, during the season of the
year that these storms are liable to occur, viz., from the middle of
December to the end of March. Some ships have been almost made
complete wrecks of, that were so unfortunate as to he overtaken by
them.

At the Samoan Islands, curious atmospheric phenomena are not
uncommon. I am indebted to the same source for several notices of
halos, and of one in particular, which happened at Fasetootai, about
twenty miles to the westward of Apia, on the 1st March, 1840. The
day was very clear, and, till near noon, no clouds w^ere seen; the sky
was azure blue in the zenith, deepening into dark purple, or nearly
black, on the horizon. At thirty minutes past noon, there was a
w^hite ring around the sun, of dazzling brightness, of five degrees
width; beyond it, a ring of white hazy appearance, of the radius of
fifteen degrees, a deep-blue colour still continuing between the sun
and halo. At 1 p. m., prismatic colours spread over the whole, and
were very bright. At two o'clock, they had heavy squalls at Fase-
tootai, wnth the wind at east-northeast. This phenomenon appears
to have been local, for it was not observed at Apia, only twenty miles
distant* The wind, however, during its continuance, was found to
have changed to northwest-by-north, attended wuth heavy rain, and
bad w^cather continued for a fortnight. Both Mr. Cunningham and

I B O W D I T C H I S L A N D. 21

Mr. Williams assured me that the halos and parhelia were usually
followed by bad weather.

At Apia, among their old acquaintances, they encountered Pea, the
ruling chief of the place, whose begging propensities still existed in
all their force. His form was equally rotund, and his desire of being
of service quite as great. Report spoke of him as having become
very religious of late, but his covetousness had not diminished in con-
sequence, at least in the opinion of our officers. He was generally
full of business, amoni:^ his friends and relatives, all of whom he con-
siders more or less as his dependants. He was very anxious to be in-
formed what had become of his relative, Tuvai, the murderer, whom
w^e had carried away from these islands on our former visit.

The missionaries were as attentive as formerly to the officers, and
gave them every facility that lay in their power of spending their time
usefully. They have been making progress in their efforts to civilize
these natives, by establishing schools, and stimulating them to improve
their condition. Almost every village now has its substantial white-
washed church, w^hich also serves for a school-house ; and, from the
reports, both continue to be well attended. Some improvements were
seen to have taken place in the dwellings, the arrangement of the
interior having a more civiHzed look, not only from the numerous"
articles of European manufacture, but in an improved state of ventila-
tion. The cattle and horses were on the increase, and there are few
natives but have supplies of pigs, poultry, and the vegetables of the
island.

Purser Speiden, who was the officer charged with procuring sup-
plies, and superintending the trade with the natives, having found
much difficulty in obtaining them alongside the ship, received per-
mission to make arrangements for a suitable place on shore. For this
purpose he procured a place to erect a pen for the pigs, &c. To
show the exorbitant demands of the natives, and their desire to prac-
tise imposition, I will state the difficulties he encountered. In the
first place, he had to pay for the site on w^hich to build a pen;
secondly, for the logs and poles to build it with; thirdly, for going
after the timbers; fourthly, for building the pen; fifthly, for trans-
ferring the live-stock to it; sixthly, for services to a native to watch
the pigs during the day and see that they did not escape ; seventhly,
to pay a man to collect cocoa-nuts for food; eighthly, to pay a woman
to feed them ; and ninthly, to pay a man to watch the pigs, taro, &c.,
during the night. Besides this, there w^as a charge made for trading
under the lar^e tree! This traffic seldom failed to affi^rd much
amusement to the lookers-on. In the centre, near the trunk of the

22

BOW DITCH ISLAND.

tree, was the trade-box, and near to it stood the trade-master, measur-
ing the fathoms of cloth. On one side were natives, seated with their
cocoa-nuts and pigs, and others looking on; some again sitting aloof,
because they could not obtain their price, or the article they wanted;
and others watching their opportunity to obtain a small reward for
some service. The vignette is from a sketch by Mr. Agate, of one of
these parties at Apia,

>f-

■3^.

J }

't^^ ■'-■m-

<^

' •W' \ :

V v^-'*.-

1 ( i

■^^0^;.

_^

r

Jn the account of my visit (o this island the year previous, I have
mentioned the intention of Mr. WiUiams to extend the missionary field
to the groups west of the Feejees, and had occasion to refer to his
melancholy end in carrying out this intention, and the recovery of his
bones by H. B. M. sloop of war Favourite.

That occurrence, instead of damping the ardour of the survivors,
has been the means of giving it a fresh impetus. Mr. Heath, who has
become the successor to Mr. Williams, has made a cruise with a
number of native missionaries, and succeeded in placing them in the
very island which was the scene of the massacre, with every prospect
of success.

The Camden was fitting out for another cruise, under the Rev. Mr-
Murray, of Tutuila. Captain Hudson pressed upon them the expe-
diency of a visit to the island that he had just discovered, Fakaafo or
Bowditch ; and it is to be hoped that ere long their enterprise may

B O W D I T C H I S L A N D. 23

lead them among this as yet uncontaminaled people, who will then
receive, coeval \vith their discovery, and prior to any contaminating
influence, the trutlis of the gospel.

The plan adopted, of using native pioneers, seems to be one well
calculated to succeed ; and I ani satisfied, from tlie view I have had
of missionary operations, that it is the only one likely to give a founda-
tion on which to raise any permanent superstructure.

The white missionaries have a vast many difficulties to contend
with, and are very likely to be deceived in some respects, in conse-
quence of their general w^ant of knowledge of the world. These diffi-
culties are principally the hypocrisy and deceit of the natives, who are
adepts in the art, giving a false impression relative to their feelings and
designs, particularly w^hen they think their personal interest may be
promoted by their dissimulation. This trait of character is not con-
fined to individuals, but frequently extends to w^hole districts.

Influential natives, brought up as teachers, are well calculated for
the duties of missionaries, and take pride in the performance of them,
and being fully aware of the native character, understand well where
to place their confidence. I have had occasion to speak of the enthu-
siastic manner in which they enter upon their duties.

I would not be understood as throwing any doubt over the expe-
diency of the missionary operations in these islands, but my intention
is to express my preference of the mode they arc now adopting to
spread the gospel into the other islands, a mode which I am wxU
satisfied will be of infinite advantage in facilitating the desired effect,
and at a much less cost, both of time and money.

No political change had taken place in tlie government. Malietoa
and the Manono party still have the powder in their hands, but reports
were rife that the chief had been a backslider from his professions of
Christianity, by attending some of the feasts of the devil's party.
The consequence, as at his time of life may be readily imagined, w^as
a fit of sickness, which has been considered as a judgment upon him,
and caused his return wdth much contrition to his religious duties and
observances. It is said, that during his illness there w-as much excite-
ment among the high chiefs, in relation to the succession to his title,
that of " Tupu," or sovereign ; and some fears were entertained that
an outbreak might occur, that w^ould place the power in the hands of
some of the restless spirits that are known to be averse to the mis-
sionaries. If, however, they have established themselves as firmly
as appearances w^arrant one in believing, there cannot be much danger

that their exertions will be retarded, much less put a stop to.

Among the visiters to the ships, was Mole, the second son of Malietoa,

24 BOW DITCH ISLAND.

r

of whom we had formed a good opinion during our former visit, and
who, it was then generally supposed, would succeed his father in
authority^ He is warmly attached to the missionary cause, and affords
important aid in carrying oat their plans, having much influence wuth
his father, and restraining his evil propensities. He has the reputation
of being very popular w^ith the common people in the town of Sagana,
where he resides and is a teacher. From him our gentlemen obtained
the news of our friends among the nobility. Emma, his sister, whom
w^e had all admired so much, and whose portrait is given in the second
volume of this Narrative, was married to Samuel, the tall and hand-
some chief of Faleatii. The haughty Vavasa was in Manono, w^hich
w^as the case also with Malietoa. Tooa was absent, and many other
chiefs who have attended the fono, were at their districts. Opotuno
was still in Savaii, on the alert to prevent surprise, and it was reported
that he had made some advances to join the missionaries with his peo-
ple; but little credit was given to this story. They also learned that
at the time Captain Hudson was in search of him he w^as concealed,
with a few of his followers, at a short distance.

For the first eight days after the Peacock^s arrival, they had almost
continual rain, with the wind varying from the north to west, and with
a disagreeable swell settinoj into the harbour.

^ ^*W W.. Q

Tents were erected on shore to afford an opportunity for the neces-
sary repairs to be made to the boats, and others for the use of the
magnetic instruments.

On the 10th, they experienced a strong gale from the northwest-
w^ard, with a heavy sea and torrents of rain. One of their anchors
started, but they soon brought up with their sheet-anchor, although a
ship would usually ride with very little strain upon her cables, owing
to the strength of the tide, w^hich causes her to lie nearly in the trough
of the sea, and to roll very heavily. The stream of fresh water which
empties into the harbour, has some tendency, when it is much swollen,
to maintain a ship in this disagreeable position, by the force of its
current. The harbour, through its discharges, is at times strewed with
quantities of drift-wood.

The rain continued w^ithout intermission for nearly the whole time
of their stay, so that no opportunity could be had of airing or drying
the sails. So long a duratioo of wet, together with the heat, caused
somo fears relative to the health of the crew, and particularly those
w^ho were awav in the boats, from their being more exposed to the
weather. Every precaution was taken to prevent sickness.

Hudson

who

B O W D I T C H I S L A N D. 23

that the chiefs of Sanapu had enticed away and secreted two of the
men, intending them for pilots of that harbour after the Peacock should
depart, and had promised to protect them. A messenger was at once
despatched across the island by Pea, the chief of Apia, demanding the
two deserters from the Sanapu chiefs; at the same time assuring then^
that if the men were not immediately delivered up, the Peacock would
be removed to their harbour, and their town destroyed. This had the
desired effect, and the deserters were brought back to the ship by the
chiefs of Sanapu*

Captain Hudson, after rebuking the chiefs for the part they had taken
in the transaction, and giving them some advice in regard to their
future intercourse with the whites, paid them the reward Lieutenant
Perry had offered for the apprehension of the deserters.

On the 21st, Captain Hudson hearing that the noted Sangapolutale,
principal chief of the towns of Saluafata, Fusi, and Salelese, wlio had
protected and refused to give up the murderer of Gideon Smith, Tagi,
before mentioned, was at one of the tow^ns near by on a visit, deter-
.mined, if possible, to surprise and take him prisoner, to be held until
such time as the murderer were given up. For this purpose he visited
the town before daylight of the 22d, with a few officers and men, but
without success.

Previous to this time, Captain Hudson had had intercourse with this
chief through our consul, Mr. Williams; and had demanded of him the
punishment or delivery of the murderer, Tagi. In the course of the
communications, Sangapolutale acknowledged that the murderer ought
to be punished or given up; said he once wanted to kill him himself;
but being a petty chief, he was backed and protected by the chiefs and
the people of the three towns before named, who were promised, in
case of necessity, assistance from some of the neighbouring chiefs, as
well as others on the opposite side of the island. He further said, that
he was desirous of giving him up, a few months before, to the com-
mander of the Porpoise. It was distinctly stated to Sangapolutale, that
the murderer must be either punished or given up, in conformity to the
regulations adopted in their fono, composed of all the principal chiefs in
the island, and that if neither of these stipulations were complied with,
Captain Hudson would be compelled to employ the force under him in
burning the towns that concealed and protected the murderer, and set
their own law^s and us at defiance.

■m

Three days were given him from the time of the interview, to comply
with the demand. He promised to do what he could, but he was
fearful of the result, as his people wanted to fight, and had been
promised aid from many quarters.

VOL. V. c 4

26 BOWDITCHISLAND.

■

On the third day, his messengers arrived at Apia, and brought word
that the chiefs and people were determined that the murderer should
not be given up or punished ; that they defied the Papalangis and their
power; and that, if Captain Hudson chose to come and take him, they
would give him a fight. The messenger further slated, that they well
knew he w^ould be demanded according to their own regulations, but
they would take care he should not be punished or given up, for they
were prepared to resist any attempt that would be made. Many other
insulting messages were received ; among them, one from the murderer
and his friends, that w^hen "he could kill a few more white men, he
would be given up."

Such were their threats and boasting: their conduct w^as conforma-
ble to them, as represented by our consul, the missionaries, and Mr.
Cunningham, H. B. M. vice-consul. Captain Hudson now saw the
necessity of taking some steps that w^ould check this criminal and
audacious spirit, and prove to the natives that we had the pow'er to
punish these aggressions on our citizens.

4

The attempt to take the chief was designed to bring them to terms,
without any further difficulty; but not being successful, it was neces-
sary to take some effectual measures for their punishment, particularly
as the three tow^ns had now^ united with their chiefs in settinor our force

at defiance. The missionaries also saw the necessity of doing some-
thing to insure the safety of those who may hereafter have communi-
cation with the natives, by renewing in their minds the fear of our

power.

Notwithstanding the weather was so very unpropitious, the natural-
ists made excursions to the different parts of the island. They all
describe the luxuriance of the vegetation as exceeding any thing they
had before witnessed : the rich soil, combined with the heat and copious
rains, rendered every spot fertile, and seemed to give new life to the
vast variety of parasitic plants with which all the trees were covered,
and which, in the groves, were so thick as to form masses impene-
trable to the rays of the sun. A remarkable ficus w^as passed on this
trip, of which Mr. Aj]jate made a characteristic drawing, and which
will give a good idea of their size and manner of growth : the road or
path passes through its trunk. A number of other trees were remark-
able : among them the " ife," a gigantic chestnut, with its projecting
buttresses around the trunk. The woods were enlivened by many birds,
and the air filled with their songs and chirpings.

At Siusinga, a devil's town, Messrs. Rich, Peale, and Agate, saw
Seeovedi, better known as Joe Gimblet, the great priest of his creed.
He lav on a mat bv himself, no one speaking or going near him, and

'y-^rt'n' <^ ^

'^r-z

■^ ^

..^ '^'

ilXlT, 'IT^Jgiy^IMc

o L n

.J9P

B O W D I T C H ISLAND. 27

F

m t

was pretending to read his sacred book, which our gentlemca disco-
vered was a volume of the Rambler! This was obtained from him, by
Mr. Agate, in exchange for a ti^eatise on rail-roads,\v\\\<i\\ had a flashy
red cover, and therefore calculated to inspire his flock with additional
reverence for their priest. He also made use of a kind of gibberish in
talking to them, wishing, as was supposed, to give his followers the idea
that he could speak the Papalangis' language. How heiiad contrived
to propitiate the anger of the old chief Lelomlava, was not ascertained ;
but a story was told of him, that about a year before he had lost his
two waives, and disappeared, informing his followers he was going to
heaven to procure a third. He absented himself about a week, no one
being informed where he had gone. On his return without a wife, he
was asked where she was. His reply was, that the Great Spirit had
told him that he was too old to marry a young wife, and must return
to his people, who would take care of him, provide him with food, and
do for him all that a wife could do. He accordingly returned, in
obedience to the Spirit's directions, and appears to live contented, all
his w^ants being supplied without any care or trouble to himself. One
of the most ridiculous parts of this fellow's proceedings, w-as a native

4

bringing to him an old tea-kettle, which w^as tabooed and held sacred,
on which he began beating with an iron knife, making much noise, his,
face assuming a contemplative expression, until he had done with his
mummeries. Strange as it may seem, he has many proselytes, and
nearly all the inhabitants of the district of Sagana are follow^ers of his
doctrine. Their appearance contrasts very strongly with that of the
Christian villages, w^hile the heathens are, to appearance, almost a
diflerent race of people ; the one with long hair, gathered in a knot on
the top of the head, and only clothed in the maro; the other with short
hair, and dressed in a clean shirt and pareu. To strangers, both are
generally kind and hospitable, and continue the Samoan custom of
offering food to travellers as they pass through the village.

Since our visit in 1S39, Mr. Day had taken up his residence within
two miles of Malietoa's tow^n, where Mr. Hale and Dr. Whittle spent

w

an hour or two with him, and proceeded thence to visit Malietoa. Near
the new church, the house of Mole w^as pointed out, in which he had
adopted many of the conveniences introduced by foreigners: the floor
of his house was of boards, raised above the ground, and his doors
were made to turn on hinges. The interior was divided by partitions
into four rooms. A table and some rude seats composed the furniture.
How far this example will be foUow^ed by the natives, time alone can
determine. I believe that all those who have examined and reflected
upon the condition of the natives of the South Sea islands, wall be satis-

28 BOWDITCHISLAND.

fied that it will be a very desirable improvement, both for their comfort -
and health, if they can be induced to abandon their modes of sleeping
on the damp ground ; and some endeavours have already been made to
effect a change in this respect, as one of the best means to prevent the
diseases of the climate, which are thought to arise principally from this
cause.

These gentlemen also visited Malietoa, who was still occupying the
same small house, directly opposite to the fale-tele, in which I saw him
during my visit. On entering, they w^ere greeted by his two wives, the
matronly Lauilupa, and Siona, the younger, both of whom still main-
tained their fleshy appearance. They recognised Mr. Hale, and gave
him a warm greeting. The old king, w^ho had been sleeping on his
divan or raised floor, now came forward. He appeared greatly
changed, and was scarcely to be recognised as the same person.
Instead of his dignified and upright carriage, which struck us all so
much at our former visit, his form had become meagre and shrunken,

and he was apparently bowed down with years, and trembling with
infirmities.

He saluted our gentlemen with his usual courtesy, and, after seating
himself, listened to the account of their visit, and of the news at Apia.
He still retained much of his former air of command and sternness,
which caused him to be likened by Dr. Whittle to a sick lion. He was
unable to sit up long, and was soon again asleep. Old Lauilupa now
entertained them by complaining of her sufferings from rheumatism,
which Dr. Whittle gave her directions how to treat.

The two wives began, in a short time, to beg for presents — the elder

one for needles and thread, the younger for jews-harps, rings, and look-

ing-glasses. These were promised, on their sending to the ship for
them. They supplied their guests with food, which was served on an

F

eating-mat, and consisted of pork, fish, taro, and yams. The queens
sat by, pointing out the choicest bits, and, had not our gentlemen
declined the honour, seemed disposed to use their royal fingers for its i

conveyance to their mouths.

In the evening, they took a stroll around the village, w^here every
house was found lighted up with a cocoanut-oil lamp, or a torch of the
candle-nut, strung upon a stick, and some with the fire of dry cocoa-
nut leaves. In each house a family circle was usually seen, variously
employed, some eating, some talking, others braiding sennit, but no \

amusements; for it was Saturday evening, and they were preparing for
the Sabbath. Wherever they went, they were received with civility,
and invited to eat.

Returning to Malietoa, another meal was found provided for them.

B O W D I T C II I S L A N D. 20

after which they were taken to a neighbouring house, which had been

prepared as their sleeping apartment.

In the nriorning, they were awakened early by a little boy, who
brought them water for washing, which showed an attention to their
comforts scarcely to have been expected among those who are con-
sidered as only half civilized.

When they rose in the morning, although but a little after sunrise,
they found the natives already collected, at morning prayers, in the
church, under the ministration of Mole; and, after the service was
finished, they were invited to breakfast with him.

The return for Malietoa's hospitality w^as now to be made, prior to
their departure; and all they had, consisted of but a few small articles;
but these were joyfully received, with many thanks ; and our gentlemen
took their leave, and returned to the ship.

Subsequently to this, Mr. Hale made a visit to the village of Mata-

_ T

fayatele, where he was fortunate in being a witness to a little festival,
called " faausi." A procession of about twenty men issued from a

n

grove, bearing on their shoulders large wooden trays, shaped like

shallow troughs. They were all dressed in gala-dresses, having wreaths

of leaves and flowers about the neck and breast, with plumes of sugar-
cane blossoms in their hair. They marched forward in quick time, to
a lively song, which they sang in unison, until they reached the fale-
tele, where a crowed appeared to be expecting them. In the house there
were thirty or forty elderly men, seated around the sides, while in the
centre a number of youths w-ere busy in serving to each a mess of food
from the trays- The chief who w^as the head of the feast, was recog-
nised by Mr. Hale as having been named Tongipavo on our former
visit, which name, he was informed, had been exchanged for that
of Benjamin, since his conversion to Christianity. He gave Mr- Hale
a seat near him, and ordered a mess of food to be served. It proved
to be mashed taro, mixed with grated cocoa-nut and soaked in cocoa-
nut-oil. The whole had been wrapped in banana-leaves and cooked.
Mr. Hale found it quite palatable, and somewhat like cold mush fried
in butter. After those present had satisfied their hunger, each wrapped
up a portion of it in banana-leaves, to carry to his family. The whole
was a pleasing sight, exhibiting one of the social customs of their
primitive mode of life.

The surveying boats having returned, and the ship having reple-
nished her stores of wood and water, and finished the repairs. Captain
Hudson prepared for his departure, having determined to proceed to
Saluafata Harbour.

As their time of departure had become known, and it drew near,

C2

30

BOWDITCH ISLAND.

i

their friends and acquaintances of rank did not omit to pay them fre-
quent visits. Among these was old Pea of Apia, Mole, and others*
These calls ought to have been termed begging visits, as they seldom
saw a thing that pleased them that they did not ask for. Mole brought
a complaint to Captain Hudson, of an outrage by a white vagabond
on shore; but it was shrewdly suspected that, notwithstanding his
being a missionary teacher, his design was to get more presents from
his parting friends.

On the 23d, Captain Hudson was visited by Matetau, the cele-
brated war-chief of Manono. In coming to the ship, he and his
numerous retinue were overtaken by a violent shower of rain, which
completely wet them. As the old chief was somewhat chilled and
cold. Captain Hudson supplied him with a clean and dry shirt. He
professed himself delighted; all was "very good," captain, officers,
and ship- His visit, like that of all the other chiefs, was evidently
to receive his quantum of presents, and hence his desire to make
himself as agreeable as possible. His features were more strongly
marked than those of the islanders usually are; he is above the
middle size, has an aquiline nose, and a high and retreating fore-
head, with the frontal portion narrow, but widening behind the ears,
hav^ing, as some thought, a strong resemblance to the chiefs of New
Zealand,

Mr. Agate succeeded in

etting a good sketch of him.

MATETAU,

He adopted the usual Samoan custom of pleasing by flattery, gri-
maces, and gesticulations, enacting, as was thought, a fight. He had
picked up a few words of English, which he did not fail to make use
of to attract attention. Owing to the necessity of getting under way.

BOWDITCH ISL AN D. 31

1

his visit terminated at an early hour. He left the ship apparently very
much gratified with his visit, or, in other words, with the presents lie
had received.

On the 22d, they took leave of their kind friends, the missionaries
and residents, with many wishes that they might be successful in tlieir
operations. The winds were light, and two days were spent before
they reached the harbour of Saluafata, where they anchored on the
evening of the 24th.

At daylight, orders were sent to Acting-Master Knox, in charge of

the tender, to anchor, with the assistance of the boats, abreast of the

town of Saluafata, to cover the landing party, and clear the town.

At the same time, special orders were given by Captain Hudson
to the first lieutenant (Mr. Walker) of the Peacock, placing undei

his direction the boats of that ship. These will be found in Appendix I
On an examination of the passage through the reef, Mr. Knox
reported, contrary to the account given by Lieutenant Emmons when
he surveyed the harbour, that there was not veater enough for the
tender. Fearing some difficulty. Captain Hudson had anchored the
Peacock as near the reef as possible, and not wishing to risk the lender
in any way, countermanded part of his orders, and determined to clear
the town with the Peacock's guns, being aware that none but the
fighting men remained, and that all their valuables and movable pro-
perty had been removed.

Preparations were therefore made for swinging the broadside to the
town, and the necessary arrangements for landing completed. Captain
Hudson, however, still thought it proper to wait a few hours, in the
hope of receiving some communication from the natives, and that they
would at the last moment, agree to give up or punish the murderer.
But no overtures whatever being made, at nine o'clock the boats were
manned, and lay on their oars, ready for the signal to proceed. A fire
was now opened from the ship, the balls being elevated so as to pass
over the town; after which the boats pushed for the shore, the party
landed, and the town of Saluafata, which consisted of about seventy-
five houses, w^as reduced to ashes. The towns of Fusi and Salelese,
of some fifty more, shared the same fate. The party then returned to
the ship, without any accident to themselves or the natives, having
met with no opposition w^hatever, notwithstanding the great boastings
and bravado messages which had been sent by the chiefs and in-
habitants.

This act was performed with great reluctance, and not until the
most perfect conviction of its being absolutely necessary to secure the
safety of the crews of such of our whaling fleet as touch at this island,

32 BOWDITCHISLAND.

as well as to restore the respect due to our flag and those who sail

under it, and to correct the erroneous opinion, that our forbearance
was the result of fear of their prowess and numbers. In their transac-
tions, and outrages conannitted on strangers, they had exhibited a
fearlessness and spirit of daring that it was time to put a stop to. By
this attack upon them, they became fully sensible that they were not

M ■ r

our equals in war, nor capable of resisting attacks that might be made
on them ; they have in consequence become much more humble, so
that the general opinion throughout the islands is, that hereafter they
must conform to the regulations they made on our former visit, and
maintain them with strict integrity towards foreigners.

Since this transaction, I have received letters from the island of
Upolu, which inform me that this well-deserved punishment has had a

■

most happy effect, and has put a termination to evils that had formerly
been of common occurrence.

Communication was had with Apia the day after, the natives of

■

which town rather exulted in the punishment that had taken place.

In leaving the harbour of Saluafata, the Peacock had a narrow
escape from wreck; for, as they were standing out of the passage,
they were overtaken by a heavy squall, with torrents of rain, and it
being near the close of the day, pitchy darkness ensued, and breakers
were unexpectedly found under their lee. There was no possibility
of returning; but by carrying a press of canvass, they succeeded in
getting clear, and an offing was attained by ten o'clock, when it fell
calm.

During the day they were at anchor in Saluafata Harbour, the
thermometer stood on board the ship at 93^ in the shade, and at 150^
in the sun. It was found oppressively warm, notwithstanding there
was a fine breeze blowing.

The chief Opotuno, who had committed so many murders, was still
at large, and it was conceived that if he could be taken, it would be
an example that would be long remembered. For this purpose, it was
believed that by obtaining Pea, the chief of Manono, to whom Opotuno
was related, the latter would be given up.

The duty of taking the former was entrusted to Lieutenant Em-
mons, under whose charge the tender was put, and instructions given
him to proceed to Manono, make the chief prisoner without injury to
him or the inhabitants of that island ; and in case of his capture, to
proceed to Savaii, and there offer an asylum to Mr. M'Donald, the
missionary resident in Opotuno's district. Lieutenants Walker and
De Haven, were employed the same night to capture Malietoa, and
the chief George, of Cocoa-nut Point. Captain Hudson's instructions

BOWDITCHISLAND. 33

to this parly, as well as those to Lieutenant Emmons, will be found in
Appendix II.

Neither of these parties succeeded in their attennpts. The reports
of the officers are also included in Appendix 11.

On the evening of the 5th, ihey anchored in the roadstead of Ma-
taatu, island of Savaii. They had constant rain and squally weather,
with a strong gale of wind from the northwest.

I was somewhat in hopes that this visit would have led to a further
knowledge of the interior of Savaii, and of its numerous craters, which
would have enabled us to make a comparison with those of Hawaii,
for, from appearances, and so far as information could be obtained, the
discharges from the terminal crater of Savaii must be similar with
those of Mauna Loa. It will be recollected that Dr. Pickering endea-
voured, during our first visit to the Samoan Group, to reach what was
termed the " rim" or burnt district, and which no doubt resembles the
flows of lava that have taken place on Haw^aii, of which particular
descriptions have been given.

The w^eather was so unfavourable, that Captain Hudson deemed it
imprudent to make any delay in so exposed a roadstead, and they ac-
cordingly left it, after ascertaining its position, and making a farther
survey and examination of it.

The town of Mataatu is beautifully situated on a bay, which is
no more than a mere indentation of the coast It is surrounded by
extensive cocoa-nut groves, behind w^hich the houses are built, in
number about four hundred. The town contains about two thou-
sand inhabitants, most of whom are still heathens, and their conduct
proved it as much as their looks, for they were more rude and ill-
looking than any other natives observed in the group, and reminded
the officers of the Feejeeans. This place is the residence of Mr. Pratt,
a missionary, who has been established here since the visit of the Por-
poise.

Captain Hudson considers the bay of Mataatu as much exposed at
all seasons; but between the 1st of December and the end of March,
when the north and northwest winds and gales prevail, it is quite dan-

■

gerous, and should not be visited.

The natives of Savaii are w^ell acquainted with Uea or Wallis Island,
to the w'estward. The west point of the bay is called Matauea, " face
of Uea," after the name of the island in that direction.

Some of their spears, clubs, &c., were quite different from those
used among the other Samoans, and were in all probability derived
from the above island. These facts, in connexion with the winds at
this season, are satisfactory evidence that there is no difficulty in the

VOL. V. 5

34

BOW DITCH ISLAND.

natives migrating to the eastward ; indeed, if they are driven off by
unforeseen storms, this is the season that these accidents would be most
likely to happen, and their migrations to take place. On reference to
the currents and winds, as exhibited throughout the progress of the
voyage on the Track Map, it will be seen that there is no difficulty in
these migrations being made from west to east.

BOWDITCH ISLANDERS.

(

CHAPTER II

CONTENTS.

THL PEACOCK A\D TEVDER LEAVE THE SAMOAN GROUP-ELLICES GROUP-CANOES
—ITS NATIVES-THEIR LANGUAGE— DEPEYSTERS ISLAND — ITS NATIVES-ALBINOS-
CLOTHING OF ITS L\HABITANTS-THEIR SYMBOL OF PEACE -WOMAN AND CHIEF
OF THE ISLAND-FOOD OF THE NATIVES-HARBOUU-VISIT FROM THE KING— THE
NATIVES' KNOWLEDGE OF OTHER LANDS — THEIR RELIGION— SPEIDEN^S ISLAND—
HUDSON'S ISLAND — ST. AUGUSTINE — DRUMMONDS ISLAND— ITS NATIVES —THEIR
HEAD DRESS — THEIR LANGUAGE — THEIR WEAPO?f8 — THEIR DEFENSIVE ARMOUR—
THEIR ORNAMENTS— THEIR CANOES— A PARTY LANDS AT UTIROA— ITS RECEPTION
—RUDENESS AND PILFERING OF THE NATIVES— DANCE— SECOND VISIT TO UTIROA
— RECEPTION IN THE COUNCIL-HOUSE- INCREASED RUDENESS OP THE NATIVES -
ONE OF THE SEAMEN MISSING — MESSAGE SENT TO THE UTIROANS — TOWNS ON
DRUMMONDS ISLAND — DETERMINATION TO PUNISH UTIROA FOR THE MURDER -
EXPEDITION AGAINST THAT TOWN — PARLEY WITH ITS INHABITANTS — UTIROA
BURNT — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES OF ETA — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF
DRUMMONDS ISLAND — SUPPLIES FOR SHIPS — BISHOP S ISLAND — HENDERVILLE
ISLAND — HALLS ISLAND — APAMAMA- JOHN KIRBY TAKEN ON BOARD-WOODLE'S
ISLAND-DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF AN ENGLISH WILALER— ERRORS OF CHARTS-
TARAWA— APIA-IDOL— THE TENDER GROUNDS— DRIFT OF THE PEACOCK— THREAT-
ENED ATTACK ON THE TENDER — MATTHEW'S ISLAND — PITT'S ISLAND — MAKIN-
ROBEUT WOOD TAKEN ON BOARD — NATIVES OF PITT'S ISLAND— THEIR CANOES —
THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES-KING TEKERE AND HIS RELATIVES-A NATIVE
DESIRES TO BE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND.

{35}

CHAPTER IL

ELLICE'S AND K I N G S M I L L GROUP.

1841.

On the 6th of March, the Peacock and Flying-Fish sailed from the
roadstead of Mataatu, for the islands known on the chart of Arrow-
smith as Ellice's Group.

On the 7th, they lost sight of the Samoan Isles.

The vessels pursued their course to the westward, with a fresh w^ind
from north-northeast, until the 14th, when they crossed the meridian
of 180"^, and dropped a day in their reckoning-

The temperature of the air during this part of the passage from the
Samoan Isles had increased from 76^ to 84^, and that of the water
from 78° to 86^

At noon, on the Mth, they made land, and by 2 p. m., they were
close to what proved to be an extensive ring of small islets, situated
on a coral reef surrounding a lagoon. These are so far separated as
to give 'the idea of distinct islands, which has probably led to their
having the name of "group." These islets are well covered with
cocoa-nut and other trees, which give them a sufficient elevation to
be seen at ten or twelve miles distance. The reef which links these
islets is awash, over which the sea breaks with violence. There are
tw^o openings in its west side, and an island off its southw^est point, at
the distance of a mile, five miles in length bv two in width. The

island is thirteen miles long, in a north-by-east and south-by-west
direction, and seven miles and tw^o-tenths east and west.

r ^^ ^^

When the vessels had approached within a short distance of the
largest island, two canoes were seen coming towards the ship, only
one of which came near. In it were five men ; and from the familiar

T

manner in which they came alongside, it was evident they had had fre-
quent communication with vessels. They refused to come on board,

p

(37)

38

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

but exhibited various articles of traffic, consisting of cocoa-nuts, mats,
rolls of sennit, niaros, large wooden fish-hooks, war-knives and swords
fitted with sharks' teeth, and some rough war-clubs. Their canoe
was in construction much more rude and rough than any met with
of similar size : it was about twenty feet long, dug out of a single log,
and the sides had strips lashed on to raise them higher. Jt had an
out-rigger and paddles very similar to those seen at the other islands.

These natives were, in general appearance, inferior to those of the
Samoan Islands, of middle size, and with deep brown complexions,
like the Hawaiians, whom they were thought also to resemble in
features; but they were w^ell provided with beard, in which respect
they resemble the Feejees. They wore their hair, which was thick
and bushy, long. One of them was observed to have it parted into
five or six large clubs of hair, hanging loose about his head, and
resembling large foxes' tails.

NATIVE OF EUJCe's I3LAND.

They were tattooed differently from any heretofore seen, their arms
being covered, from the shoulder to the wrist, with small curved figures
or zigzag lines. They had this tattooing also on the body, extending
from the armpits to the waist, and down, until the whole body was
encompassed in the same manner. No marks were observed on the
face or legs, but on two of them were a few lines across the small of
the back. They wore no clothing, but a strip of fine matting, as a
maro, and a coarser piece tied about the hips : the first, which was
made of the pandanus-leaf, was about eight inches wide, and ten feet
long, and was fringed on each side, w^hich increased its width. The
coarser girdle was worn, and attached to it were slips of pandanus-

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

30

I

leaf, a foot long, dyed red, by way of ornament, which nt a distance
had the appearance of ribands.

One of the men was a petty chief, and was held in respect by his
companions. There was another, whose costume was very peculiar :
around the head and waist he had a strip of pandanus-leavcs, which
was so arranged as to form a series of points. The attitudes of these
natives were equally singular: one of these is represented in the
wood-cut.

.ft^bi

cosTcanc, ellice's croup.

seemed

be equipped for a fishing party, from the implements they had with
them. Some rolls of sennit were bought, and large wooden sharlv-
hooks. Their spears were only poles of cocoanut-wood, pointed at one
end; and their knives made of small shark's teeth, inserted into a stick
with gum and fine sennit, and are about a foot lonf?.

It was soon found that they understood the Samoan language, and
spoke a purely Polynesian dialect. The Samoan native easily con-
versed with them. They gave the name of the island as Fanafute.
Thev seemed perfectly familiar with white men. and when the guns
were fired for a base by sound, they showed no kind of alarm.

/

40 ELLICE'S AND K I N G S M I L L GROUP.

The island was surveyed, and was found to be in latitude S^ 30' 45"
S., longitude 179^ 13' 30" E- There appears to be good anchorage
within the lagoon; an abundance of wood is to be had, but it is believed
there is no adequate supply of fresh water.

Fronn w^hat was ascertained, the population was put down at two
hundred and fifty souls.

The vessels left Ellice's Group the same evening, proceeded under
easy sail, and at daylight made the Depeyster Islands, distant three
and a half miles to the northwest. The two following days, they had
squally wxather, accompanied with heavy rains, with the wind north-
ward, which obliged them to stand off from the island, as no work
could be done. The island was thus lost sight of, but on the 17th it
was again made from aloft, to the northward and westward.

On the 18th, the trade-wind set in and brought fine weather; but
exceedingly warm, the thermometer standing at 85° in the shade.

They surveyed this island; and on the same day Tracy's Island,
whose native name Is Oaitupu, was in sight to the eastward. The
observations placed it in latitude l"" 28' S., and longitude 178^ 43' 35"
E. It is well covered with trees, and to all appearance as extensive
as Depeyster Island. As the wind was directly contrary, and a strong
current flowing to the west. Captain Hudson thought it would be a
waste of time to attempt to reach it.

Several canoes, with the natives of Depeyster's Group or Island,
came off to the ship : they used triangular sails, similar to those of the
rest of Polynesia. The natives proved to be of the same race as those
of Ellice's Group; speaking the same language, and tattooed after the
same fashion.

In colour, however, many of them were rather darker; but few
were above the middle size, and none of them had the manly beauty
of the Samoans. A greater variety of fashions prevailed among them,
which exhibited itself more particularly in their hair. Some wore it
like that of the Feejees, and the locks were frequently of a reddish
brown, although the natural colour was black. Their skin was coarse
and rough to the touch; in many it was disfigured after a singular
fashion, and in some it appeared as if a scurf prevailed, resembling a
person whose skin was peeling ofT from the effects of the sun ; in others,
the staee of the disease was seen farther advanced, the scurf having
disappeared, and left the skin marked with circular and wavy lines,
which the natives called " tafa."* About a fifth part of the natives

» A name the Samoans apply to the marks they bum on the skin for mourning. This
was imputed to the effects of a disease somewhat allied to the ringworm, by the medical

EL LICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP. 4I

seen were affected in this manner; and the skin of these was much
lighter than in any Polynesian race they had met with- Among the
natives were two albinos; the colour of their skin was of a reddish
white, the hair of a flaxen white, with light-blue eyes, so weak as to
oblige them to use a shade, and to keep their eyes constantly half closed.
Their persons seemed also to be quite tender, and they avoided expo-
sure to the sun by an additional mat over tlie shoulders. They were
covered in many places with large brow^n freckles : their whole ap-
pearance was any thing but pleasing. The account they gave of
themselves w^as, that their parents were the same as the rest of the
islanders, and that their other children were dark.

The tattooing w^as in great variety on the body; but in all, the arms
were tattooed alike, for there it varied only in quantity. On the body
it was frequently extended across the back and to the abdomen ; and
in many, the bodies and thighs were tattooed down as far as the knee.
Many of the natives designated the figures as intended to represent
pigeons (lupe).

These islanders wore three kinds of mats, made of the pandanus-
leaf : one was similar to that described at Ellice's Group, and worn
as a maro ; another was worn as a girdle, of thick fringe, from eight
inches to a foot broad, tied about the loins so as to cover in part the
maro : to this they gave the name of " takai ;" the last was used as a
wrapper about the body and legs. Tlie fringes of these mats were all
dyed of various colours, and the wrapper was tinged on one side in
large patterns of divers colours, some in squares, others in diamond
forms, which at a little distance had a pretty effect. These mats were
w^orn for different purposes ; and the latter seemed to belong to the
higher or privileged orders, as the only person who was seen to wear
one w^as the chief. A great many of these mats were brought off for
sale, and bought.

On their approach to the ship, every one was seen to have a cocoa-
nut leaflet tied around the neck, — a practice w^hich attracted particular
notice by their endeavour to keep it constantly in view, from w^hich it
w^as inferred, it might be wuth them a sign of amity and peace- In
all, the lobe of the ear w^as bored, and distended to the size of an inch
in diameter ; around this they insert small rings of tortoise-shell, so
neatly made that it is difficult to discern the place where they are
joined. JMany of them had shells and mother-of-pearl ornaments sus-
pended round their necks.

omcers, while others thought it might have resulted from exposure
of the climate,

VOL. v. D3 6

42 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

Only one -woman was seen in the canoes, and every endeavour was i

made to induce her to come on board, that her likeness might be pro-
cured, but Without effect; she could not be prevailed upon. She was
prepossessing in her appearance, with a pleasing expression of coun-
tenance, and had a modest demeanour. She wore a cincture around
her waist, and a mat over her bosom. The cincture was made of
pandanus-leaves ; this was fastened to a cord as a thick fringe, two ,

feet in length, and extended to her knees. Her arms were beautifully
tattooed, of the same figure as the men, but the tattooing was con-
tinued down the leg in horizontal stripes, an inch and a half wide.
This constitutes a great difference from the Polynesians, for wnth them

^

we have never before met with any females who were tattooed, except-
ing a few marks on the fingers and feet.

Twenty or thirty of these natives came on board, while the rest
remained in the canoes, of which there were about fifteen, having an
average of five natives to each. Their desire was to exchange their
articles for hatchets and plane irons : iron-articles of all kinds were in
great demand, together with beads and rings.

After they had exhausted their desire for trade, some few of them
went below, and entertained the officers with a dance and song, both
of which resembled those of Polynesia, which have been heretofore
described.

L

In the afternoon the chief paid the ship a visit. He was styled both
the god and chief of the island, and was a very fine-looking man, about
forty years of age, and grave in his deportment. He reckoned six
towns on the island, five of them on the northeast side, and one on the
southwest. The population was estimated at one thousand.

The natives said that they had pigs and taro, and brought off some
of the latter ; but it was small, both in size and quantity. The only
articles of food that the natives had with them in their canoes were

+

the young cocoa-nut and the fruit of the panJanus. The former were,
for the most part, quite young, and fit only for drinking ; but there,
were some that were old and filled with pulp, to which they gave the
name of utanu, and of which they seemed very fond. Besides taro,
they said that they had a much larger root, called " pulaka." Yams
and bananas they knew by name, but had none of them.

An opening being discovered as the ship passed along the reef, Lieu-
tenant De Haven was sent to examine it, and he found a good ship-
channel into the lagoon. The passage was one-third of a mile wide,
and the least depth of wafer in it was five fathoms. It leads to an
anchorage in from seventeen to twenty fathoms, on a sandy bottom,
where a vessel may lie well protected by the reef. The current was

I

ELLICE^S AND K 1 N G S M T T- L GROUP, 43

found to be setting out of this passage at the rate of two and a half
miles per hour.

When Lieutenant De Haven returned, he was accompanied by the
chief, who called himself both the chief and god of the island, Foilapa
He was a fine-looking man, about forty years of age, with prominent
features, his hair cut short and nicely oiled. His legs were swollen
with the elephantiasis. He was gaily dressed, with both the maro and
girdle, beside the square mat of various colours around his waist* He
saluted the officers with the rubbing of noses, and said that his name
had been Faikatea, which he had changed with Lieutenant Do Haven.
He remained but a short time on board, and explained by his motions
the necessity of his leaving the ship before the sun went down. He was
very urgent that some of them should accompany him, and pass the
night at his village ; but finding nobody disposed to do so, he departed,
and the rest soon followed.

This island was called by the natives Nukufetau; they w^ere ac-
quainted with Fanafute, or Ellice's Island, and also with Oaitupu, or
Tracy's Island. On being asked if these were all the lands they knew
of, they said, pointing to the east, that beyond Oaitupu there were three
islands, called Oatafu, Nukunono, and Fakaafo, which it will be recol-
lected are those of the L^nion Group. Mr. Hale pressed the inquiry, if
this were all; and with some hesitation they added the name of Oloo-
singa, which is one of the small eastern islands of the Samoan Group;
but what seemed strange, they did not understand the name of Samoa.
On mentioning Tonga and Haabai, the names appeared to be recog-
nised. Some bananas attracting their attention, which they saw hanging

up, they called futi o rotuma! Mr. Hale, in his inquiries, found the
pronunciations of these natives very distinct, and it enabled him better
to understand the orthography of their names.

These islanders gave the name of their god as Foilape : on inquiry

being made if the Tui-Tokelau also lived there, they immediately
replied, that he w^as the god of Fakaafo, thus exhibiting an intimate
acquaintance with the Union Group. It is not a little remarkable that
many of the officers were struck with the great likeness that the chief
of the island, Faikatea, bore to Taupe, of Fakaafo- At Fakaafo, mention
was made of an island called Pokapoka : this name the natives of
Nukufetau recognised immediately, and said that it was an island
thickly inhabited. We have not been able to ascertain with what
island the name can be associated. All these circumstances induced a
strong belief that these islanders were derived, at no very remote
period, from those of the Union Group ; and the fact of the latter being
entirely ignorant of other lands, would lead more strongly to that belief.

44 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

When Mr. Hale pronounced the name of Tagaloa, the great deity
of Polynesia, it appeared to surprise and annoy them. One of them
mentioned that Tagaloa was a god taboo to their country, and refused
to speak farther about him. ,

They reported that ten ships had visited their island, and added that
a ship of the Wiwi people had spent some days about their island in
fishing : that the captain, with five others, had slept on shore. It was
conjectured that Wiwi was the appellation by which they distinguish
the French people or ships, this term being made use of in New
Zealand. The invitations to go on shore were accompanied by such
significant signs as to lead to the conclusion that they were not the
most virtuous people, and very unlike their ancestors, or race of the
Union Group, whose only desire seemed to be to get rid of the parties
before night.

The extreme north island was found in latitude 7° 56' 11" S., longi-
tude 178° 27' 32" E.: it is eight miles long, east-northeast and west-
southwest ; its greatest width is nearly the same.

The vessels left Nukufetau the same evening, and steered away to
the northward. In latitude 6° 10' S., and longitude 177^ 41' R, they
passed a small island which has no lagoon, and does not appear to be
named on any of the charts. This they saw at some distance, and
although it appears to have been seen before, yet as the charts only
designate it as an island, I have bestowed upon it the name of Speiden,
after the purser of the Peacock, one of the most valuable officers of the

Expedition.

On the 24th, they fell in with another island, in latitude 6° 19' S,,

longitude 176° 23' 15" E. This discovery I have called Hudson, aftei
Captain Hudson. It was surveyed and found to be but one mile and
four-tenths long, north and south, and nine-tenths of a mile wide, east
and west. This island is inhabited, a few natives being seen on the
beach, and several houses under cocoa-nut trees on its west side. It
is of coral formation, has no lagoon, and can be seen about eight or ten
miles. There are reefs extending from its north and south points
nearly half a mile, on which the surf breaks heavily. They had no
communication with its inhabitants.

On the 25th, they passed the small island of St. Augustine, whose
position as ascertained was in latitude 5° 35' S., and longitude 176^
06' E. It appeared well wooded, but being to windward, it could
not be reached without much delay. The wind, thus far, among
these islands, had been from the north, and very unfavourable for a
vessel cruising among them for their examination; and being light
and variable, little progress could be made in any direction.

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 45

Until the 3tl of April, they continued to sail to the northward
without meeting with any islands. On that day they made Druin-
rnond's Island of the charts, one of the Kingsmill Group, where they
encountered the regular northeast trades. This island is called Tnpu-
tcouea by the natives ; it is situated in latitude V 20' S., and longi-
tude 174"^ 57' E. It is of coral formation, is thirty miles long in a
northwest and southeast direction, and varies in width from a half to
three quarters of a mile. This, however, only includes the high por-
tions, or that which is above the ocean level a few feet. It is thinly
covered wuth cocoa-nut and pandanus-trees, and not a patch of grass
is to be seen, or any sort of shrubbery or undergrowth. To the
leeward, or on its west side, the reefs and sand-banks extend off some
distance, gradually increasing from the northwest point to the south-
east, where they are as much as six and a half miles in width.
This reef is interrupted in places, and there is good anchorage off the
town of Utiroa, towards the northwest end, near a small sand-bank,
which is usually bare. The whole shore of the island as they ap-
proached it appeared covered with houses, presenting to the view
one continuous village. At intervals of a mile there were buildings
of huge proportions, far exceeding in size any they had before met
with.

As they approached, canoes were seen coming towards them from
all parts of the island. The appearance of these natives was totally
different from those already seen to the south. They appeared of the
middle size, slender, and well proportioned. Their colour was a
shade or two darker than that of the Tahitians, and they exhibited a
greater variety of face and features, with black glossy hair, finer than
in other races. Their features w^ere small, but high and well marked ;
their eyes large, black, and bright; their nose straight or slightly
aquiline, and always somewhat widened at the base; their mouth
large, wath full lips and small teeth, which were very imperfect from
decay, and they are the only natives in the Pacific with this defect
From the projection of the cheek-bones, the eyes had in some the
appearance of being sunken. They wore mustaches, but their beards
were scanty. They evidently set a great value on these as ornaments,
priding themselves much upon their appearance. The few officers
who had whiskers were very much admired, the natives patting their
w^hiskered cheeks with great marks of admiration.

Altogether they were thought to resemble the Malays. Many of
them w^ere observed to have the same disease as exists at Ellice's
Islands, disfiguring the body and giving it the same scurfy and dis-
gusting appearance.

46 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

The majority of these islanders go entirely naked, excepting a [

covering for the head, consisting usually of the bleached pandanus-
leaf. Mr. Agate's sketch of one, represented in the wood-cut, will
give an idea of this head-dress.

drummond's islander.

Although it has been said that the majority go naked, it must not
be understood that the rest are clothed, for they w^ear no more than
a sort of girdle, which, however, serves no purposes of decency, only
covering the abdomen, and lower part of the back. Some few had
over their shoulders a strip of matting, with a hole in the centre for
the head to pass through, in order to protect their bodies from the sun.
A few were tattooed very lightly, and in some it was scarcely distin-
guishable. Those that were so adorned had it from the breast to the
ankles, consisting of short oblique marks, an inch or two in length,
drawn parallel a quarter of an inch apart: there was a space both
before and behind, of three inches wide, from the neck down, that was
uncovered. No tattooing was seen on the face and arms. These
natives soon showed that they were familiar and had had frequent
intercourse with vessels, for on coming alongside, their first cry was
for " rope." They had also a few Polynesian words of the different
islands and groups that could be recognised, which they had obtained
from the vessels that at various times had visited their island.

Their own language w^as totally different, and none on board could
comprehend it.

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 47

When they arrived alongside, they made muf^h clangour and many
gesticulations, but refused to leave their canoes. After some enticing,
one was induced to venture on board. They evidently comprehended
that the vessel was of a difTcrcnt character from what they had been
accustomed to see. The one who gained the deck showed much agi-
tation, but when he saw the arm-chest opened and a musket taken
out, his fears were too much for him, and he at once sprang over the
stern into the water, and swam to his canoe. Others came on board,
but they in their turn, were frightened in like manner, and took to their
canoes.

The arms and legs of a large proportion of the natives exhibited
numerous scars, many of which were still unhealed. These had been
made with shark's-teeth swords, such as were seen at the Depeyster

*

Group, weapons which are. calculated rather to make severe gashes
than dangerous w^ounds. The spears are equally formidable, and four
rows of shark's teeth are inserted in them; some are of the uncommon
length of twenty feet, but they are usually about eight or ten feet long,
and have prongs projecting from their sides also armed with teeth.
A drawing of these arms is given in the wood-cut al the end of the
chapter.

They were evidently in the habit of having severe conflicts with one
another, and war seems to be one of the principal employments of this
people.

In order to guard against the destructive effect of these arms, they
had invented a kind of armour, which was almost an effectual defence
against their weapons, and- accounted at once for their arms and legs
-ceing the only parts where scars were seen. This consisted of a sort
of cuirass, covering the body as far down as the hips, and rising above
the back of the head three or four inches. This, w^hen taken off and
set upon the deck, somewhat resembled a high-backed chair- It w^as
made of plaited cocoanut-husk fibres, woven into as solid and compact
.a mass as if it had been made of board half an inch thick, and was as
stiff as a coat of mail. For the legs and arms, they have also a
covering of netted sennit of the same material, which they put on.
That for the legs resembles a pair of overhauls, such as sailmakers
use, w*ith straps over the shoulders. The covering for the arms is
drawn on in like manner. The appearance of the body was as if it
were clothed in pantaloons and jacket of a deep brown colour. This
they must find a very inconvenient covering for their hot climate.
However singular the body-dress is, that of the head is still more so: it
consists of the skin of the porcupine-fish, cut open at the head, and
stretched sufficiently large to admit the head of a man. It is perfectly

48

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

round, with the tail sticking upwards, and the two fins acting as a
covering and guard for the ears : its colour is perfectly white, and by
its toughness and spines affords protection against the native weapons.

drummond's islanp warriors.

The beads were strung alternately, black and white,

The ornaments which the natives wore, were strings of beads and
human hair.

and were made of shell and of cocoanut-wood. The strings of human

hair resembled watch-guards, and some of them were of the size of

packthread. Although the manufacture of this article must have been

tedious, yet a great quantity of it was brought off, and bartered for

some plugs of tobacco, and a few whales' teeth. Their mats, likewise,

constituted an ornament: they were slips of the pandanus braided, and

some of these had been bleached, and were of a light siraw-colour;

others were unbleached and brown : these were interwoven together,
so as to produce many kinds of figures, in squares, lozenges, and dia-
monds. They wore these folded twice, so as to form a triple thickness,
w^hich they passed over one shoulder as a scarf, or round the body,
securing it with a cord of human hair; the folds of this answered the
purposes of pockets, for putting away the tobacco and other articles
they had obtained by barter. In default of a mat, they used the lining
or upper part of their hat or cap. These mats are about three feet
wide by six long.

I

ELLICES AND KINGSMIT. T. GROUP. 40

Their chief desire was to obtain tobacco, of which they seem to be
extravagantly fond; it was their constant request, and whilst in their
canoes alongside, or on deck, the cry was constantly " tebake," It
was not begged as a gift; for, what appeared singular enough for
South Sea islanders, they seemed to have no idea of receiving any
thing as a gratuity, but instantly made a return of something for what-
ever was given them. So eager were they after it, that when one had

put a piece in his mouth, others would seize him, and actually force it
out with their fingers.

Besides the mats, they had fans, fly-brushes, and baskets of different
sizes and shapes, with nets and hooks for fishing. Some had wigs,
and others carved images, all of which were readily parted with for
tobacco. Another article which was brought off for sale, was a kind
of treacle, made from the sap of the cocoa-nut tree, which they had in
cocoa-nut shells: into these they frequently thrust their fingers, and
drawing them through their mouths, smacked their lips -most signifi-
cantly of its goodness.

The canoes of these natives were different from those of any other
islanders: their average length is from twelve to fifteen feet; they
are from two to three feet deep, and vary from fifteen inches to two
feet in width. Each canoe has six or eight timbers in its construction;

KING9MILL CANOE.

they are well modelled, built in frames, and have much sheer. The
boards are cut from the cocoa-nut tree, from a few inches to six or
eight feet long, and vary from five to seven inches in width. These
are arranged as the planking of a vessel, and very neatly put together,
being sewed with sennit; for the purpose of making them water-tight,
they use a slip of the pandanus-leaf, inserted as our coopers do in flag-
ging a cask. They have evinced much ingenuity in attaching the
upright to the flat timbers, which are so secured as to have all the
motion of a double joint, which gives them ease and comparative secu-
rity in a sea-way, and thus renders them capable of withstanding the
waves. They use an out-rigger, much smaller than those of other
islands, and the staging or platform covers less space. One of the sides
is nearly flat, in which respect they resemble the proa of the Ladrones,
as figured in Anson's Voyages

VOL. ■« K 7

50 ELLICE^S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

They are expert at managing their canoes, and seldom use their i

paddles, which are niiserably niade, of a piece of cocoa-nut board or
tortoise-shell, about six inches square, attached to a round stick ; on

this account they prefer using their sails. These are triangular, with
an inclined or raking mast; they are worked in sailing precisely as

those described in the Feejee Islands, keeping the out-rigger always to
windward, and tacking in the same way. Their masts are in two or
three pieces, as well as the yards, and the whole construction shows
that wood is exceedingly scarce, and that it is very difficult to procure
enough of it ; as a cocoa-nut tree, of which they are made, will yield
only two planks, in the mode in which they saw them out. One of the
canoes, from the town of Utiroa, which came alongside the first day,
was seen to be in part constructed from the bulwarks of a merchant
vessel, which had some time before been wrecked; probably of an
English ship, as a wreck was reported to have been seen lying on the
reef in the beginning of March, 1839.

On the night of the 4th, they were set strongly by the current to the
westward, and by morning were fifteen miles to leeward, and out of
sight of the island.

On the 5th, they succeeded in regaining their position. Many
canoes came off, which continued increasing throughout the day,
until at one time eighty were counted from the ship, some of which
contained from ten to fifteen persons. Many of these ventured on
board, and became satisfied of the friendly intentions towards them,
though they still seemed to be under some apprehensions from the
number of men on board and the size of the ship. The guns fired
in the operation for surveying increased their alarm ; many jumped
overboard at every discharge, and concealed themselves behind their
canoes.

In the afternoon, Captain Hudson on sounding found a bank, on
which he anchored, in fifteen fathoms water, at the distance of four
miles from the island.

The next morning, the tender was despatched, with two boats, under
Lieutenants Emmons and De Haven, to continue the survey.

On the 6th, soon after daylight, they had from thirty to forty canoes
alongside with different articles of trade; and ninety-two others were
in sight from the deck, with from four to five natives in each.

Early in the day, three boats were despatched for the town of
Utiroa, to acquire a knowledge of the place and its inhabitants. In
them were thirty men, well armed, which was thought to be a suffi-
cient force to secure the officers and naturaUsts from any attack.
Opposite to the town of Utiroa is a long flat, over which, at ebb tide,

ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

51

a boat will not float; and, as it was low^ water, it became necessary
to walk through the shallow to the beach, which was nearly a quarter
of a mile distant.

A very brisk trade was carried on for provisions and articles of
curiosity. They had some small fish, which were much esteemed.
The fowls offered for sale, as usual among the Polynesian islands,
were all cocks, and proved old and tough. These were brought off
in neat cages.

Several women were among the crowd, with delicate features and
a lively expression of countenance, but remarkably small. Their
covering was a girdle, made almost altogether of fringe fastened to a
string, which was passed round the body. This garment had, at a
distance, a more graceful look even than the *Uiti" of Samoa. This
it obtains from being made pliable by steeping it in some peculiar
mixture, which was thought by some of the officers to have the odour
of tobacco and molasses. The women were much less tattooed than
the men ; but, as at the other southern islands, in the same style with
them.

<('• '

WOMAN OF DRUMMOND S ISLAND,

V^

^

The same custom was in vogue here that prevails at most of the
Polynesian islands, of rubbing noses and exchanging names.

Along the shore of this island, in front of the villages or towns,
there are long lines of stone walls, from one to two feet high, serving
as fish-weirs or pens. In passing to the shore, they saw a party of

52 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

men and women engaged in driving a school of fish into one of them,
with long lines fringed with pandanus-leaves, used like a seine, some-
what resembling that before described at Savaii: these fishers took no
notice whatever of our party,

. When they had approached within one hundred yards of the beach,
the natives came forward to meet them; and within a short distance

from the beach they passed a small, old, and dilapidated house, built
on piles, about eight feet above the water : this old fabric, as we after-
wards found, was made use of for telegraphic signals, in case of de-
siring assistance from their neighbours.

The party were cordially received, both by the men and women,
who did not hesitate to advance: all were uncovered, and the majority
vvere women and children. Some of the women were the prettiest
that had yet been seen in the South Sea islands; slender and grace-
fully formed. Their complexion was of a clear brown, with full
bright eyes, thick and glossy black hair; and they appeared by no
means unconscious of their charms.

The men became at once familiar and rude, seizing their arms and
putting their own about the officers' necks, desiring to lead them on*
ward, until they were obliged to use violence to keep them off.

They reached the beach near what the natives termed their " mari-
apa," or council-house, one of the large buildings that had been before
spoken of as visible from the sea. This stands in front of the town, on
a broad wharf, made of coral stones, built out from the beach ; its
dimensions, as measured, were one hundred and twenty feet long, by
forty-five feet wide, and to the ridge-pole forty feet high. The ridge-
pole was supported by five large posts, whence the roof sloped on each
side and reached within three feet of the ground ; the rafters descended
to a wall-plate, which rested on large blocks of white coral, and were
also supported by smaller posts, ten feet in length, near the sides. At
the ends, the roof was perpendicular for eight or ten feet, and then they
sloped off in the same manner as the sides- The roof was thatched
with pandanus-leaves-

The crowed on the beach rapidly increased, pressing around, shouting,
gesticulating, and catching hold of them, to express their joy at the
visit : at the same time stealing the tobacco they had brought to barter,
which operation was performed very dexterously.

No chiefs, however, came forward to receive them when they ad-
vanced towards the mariapa, and entered, by passing under the roof.
Many natives were inside, who closed around them, and set up a
clamour that was deafening. The heat also was oppressive, and with
the rancid oil on their bodies, w^as almost stifling.

^

\\fll(p^

L

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 53

An old man soon made his appearance, whose deportment, and that
of the crowd, pointed him out as the chief. He had, apparently, little
actual authority, for his presence seemed to have no effect in silencing
the natives. He pointed to the palisade around the town, whither he
invited them at once to go, and conducted them to his house. Very
few of the natives followed. On entering the palisade of slender
stakes, the village was found to be divided into lots, containing ten or
twelve houses, and enclosed by fences. Each of these enclosures, it was
supposed, belonged to a separate family.

The chief led the way to his house, and invited them to enter, which
they did, and found its construction altogether different from any before
seen in the South Seas. There was nothing remarkable in its exterior;
it was of oblong shape, and about sixteen feet wide by twenty feet long.
The interior consisted of two stories, of which the lower was not more
than three feet high, under the floor of the upper story. It was entered
by a square hole at one side» The apartment above was rather a loft
or garret, which was high, and contained, apparently, all the valuables
and goods of the occupant. The floor was made of small pieces of
pandanus-boards, laid on slender beams of cocoanut-wood. It was
afterwards understood that this arrangement of apartments was to
guard against the inroad of the rats. The lower apartment is used for
sleeping, while the upper is entirely for storing their goods and chattels.
The wall-plates rest on four beams of cocoanut-wood, which are sup-
ported by four posts, one at each corner. These posts are round, and
perfectly smooth, so that the rats cannot climb them. The rafters and
cross-pieces are mere poles, only an inch or two thick ; the thatch is
of pandanus-leaf, doubled over a slender stick, and tied down with
sennit.

After they were seated, cocoa-nuts, with treacle and water, were
brought them to drink. They then requested the chief, whose name

^

was Tama, to show them the fresh-water wells and taro-beds. Under
his guidance, they passed through the village, which was situated on
a narrow strip of the island, very close to the beach. Beyond it,
towards the interior (if the term may be used of that which is but half
a mile wide) of the island, was a cocoa-nut grove, extending to the sea.
The tall cocoa-nut trees scattered about, with here and there small
clumps of pandanus, gave it a cool and refreshing shade, and produced
an agreeable impression. Paths wound in every direction, and were
quite visible, in consequence of the absence of underbrush. The sandy
soil offered only a scanty growth of dry grass (a Sida). Around the
houses of the natives were found Cordias, Hibiscus, and Ficus; but
they were all of small growth. The Draccena, of which the Samoans

£2

54 BLLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

make the titi, was also seen. The.taro-pits were dug to the depth of
eight or ten feet, and were fifty feet long by thirty broad ; they were
planted with taro and api, in rows : in the centre was a few inches of
water, and the whole earth was moist. The taro, however, was small,
although the natives gave an account of its growing to the length of
two feet. The wells were fifteen feet deep; the water in them was
brackish. These excavations have been made at much cost of time
and labour.

All the party on shore were much incommoded with the rudeness of
the natives, who did all in their power to pilfer from them ; and, if their
attention were diverted for a moment, the hands of a native were felt
at their pockets. When detected, they would hold up their hands, with
open palms, and laugh. This boldness was more especially confined
to a few, and one in particular, a young chief, who was a tall, good-
looking person, but had a vain andimpudent expression of countenance,
which was rendered disgusting by the kind of leprosy before spoken
of. It is impossible to give a correct idea of the annoyances that our
gentlemen were subjected to from the rudeness of some, the excess of
civility of others, and the constant watchfulness that became necessary
to avoid the pickpockets. An old man was about smearing himself in
cocoanut-oil,with a cup full of salve, in which he would dip his fingers,
and endeavour to rub them in their faces. This afforded much amuse-
ment to the party, w^hile the natives seemed astonished that the attempt
was repulsed; for there was little doubt of its being intended as a great
compliment thus to anoint their guests-

In many instances they showed a disposition to get the officers into
their power for some evil design. Messrs. Peale and Rich, who were
both well armed, had crossed the island in search of birds, plants, and
shells ; on their return, they visited the town next adjoining to Utiroa,
and but a short distance from it. On entering the town, their sus-
picions were somewhat excited by the number of armed men around.
Mr. Peale describes the natives as obliging them to sit down by
forcing their legs from under them. These things were permitted to
a certain extent, the natives all standing around armed; but a prompt-
ness of action, and show of using their arms, extricated them from
their diflSculties.

In front of the mariapa were three or four houses of the common
size, one of which was called by the natives te-o-tabu, or sacred
enclosure, but it was only distinguished by its being supported at the
corners on blocks of coral. The natives were unwilling that any one
should enter this enclosure.

Durin^i^ the day, the greater part of the large number of natives the}

ELLICE'S AND KI^^GSMILL GROUP. 55

had seen, as in the case of those who came on board, were covered
with scars, and the scurfy disease, or leprosy. Although the young
women were quite pretty, the old were as remarkable for being
hideous; of these, a few were seen to be afflicted with ophthalmia and
elephantiasis. The maro of the men, although large, was not intended
to serve the purposes of decency, but principally for the protection of
the abdomen. Their hair was trimmed short in front, but w^as allowed
to grow long behind, where it tapered to a point ; in both sexes it was
black and fine, with a slight tendency to curl.

After returning to the mariapa, Tama wms asked to give them an
exhibition of a dance. This he endeavoured to do, but without re-
ceiving much attention. At length, the young chief, whom they had
found particularly troublesome, came forward, with an insolent and
swaggering air, wrapped a mat round his body, from the waist to the
knees, and began a dance similar to that of the Polynesian islanders,
before described, consisting of movements of the hands and body, but
w^ith very little motion of the feet. When the dance was finished, the
afternoon was far advanced ; the pftrty then returned to the boats,
which they had now been able to draw near the beach, in consequence
of the rise of the tide. On their w-ay to the ship, the tiny canoes of
the natives, with their small white triangular sails, were seen in all
directions, coming to the shore. On board, it was believed that up-
wards of a thousand had visited the ship in the course of the day.

On the afternoon of the 7th, a large party visited the town of Utiroa,
equally w^ell armed as the day before, and with the same instructions
and cautions that no one should give cause of ofTence, and if any thing
was oflered for sale, to pay liberally for it* These precautions were
enjoined, in consequence of the belief that the natives were a treache-
rous and dangerous set of fellows, and were inclined to believe
themselves invulnerable in their armour. An opportunity had been
taken, before a large number, to show^ them that the cuirass, &c., was
not proof against our weapons at any distance; for which purpose one
of the coats of mail was hoisted up at the yard-arm, and fired at: the
holes w^ere then exhibited, but did not seem to produce much effect
upon them. They manifested a decided disposition for warlike pur-
suits, and ferocity was the most predominant trait in their character.

On the party's landing, Captain Hudson moved towards the council-
house, w^here they found a large concourse of people, most of them
elderly men, who they were informed were the chiefs of the nation:
they w^ere directed to one corner, where sat the chief, whom they
called Nea. He was a very decrepit old man, nearly bald, with
shrivelled skin, and had a stare of vacant wonder; the nails of his

56 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

fingers had grown to the length of an inch. His name was Pakoro-

koro. Some few presents were given him, but he took very little
notice of them, appearing half stupified, and as soon as the articles
were in his possession, they were snatched away by the bystanders,
without the least shame or hesitation.

The mariapa was a very large building, and in the interior its
architecture showed to much advantage: the ridge-pole, with the
rafters, w^ere painted in black bands, with points, and ornamented
with a vast number of ovula-shells. Chests, made of the thin laths of
the pandanus, somewhat resembling cane, were arranged around,
about twenty feet apart: these contained only a few mats and cocoa-
nuts, things of no value, and are supposed to be for the accommoda-
tion of visiters, or used at their feasts. The floor w^as in places
covered with mats of the cocoanut-leaf

When the ceremony of reception w^as over, the natives appeared
extremely desirous of separating the party, by leading them off in
different directions, under the plea of showing them the town, and
making them acquainted with some of the females. As soon as they
w^ere on the outside of the mariapa, they were surrounded by num-
bers, and their pockets rifled of their contents in a short time.

Captain Hudson, after they had been an hour and a half on shore,
ordered all the officers and boats' crews down to the beach, being
satisfied that it was quite time to depart, if he would prevent the
collision which he had become apprehensive might take place. As
they were assembling for the purpose of embarking, a noise was
heard, resembling a sudden assault, from some of the houses near by,
and on mustering the men, John Anderson, a seaman, was missing.
Lieutenant Walker and Passed Midshipman Davis were sent, each
with a few men, in the direction whence the report proceeded, but
they saAV nothing of him, and all was quiet at the enclosure. The
natives began now to assemble in large numbers, armed, and things
looked somewhat serious; for, as Passed Midshipman Davis returned
to the beach, he was stoned, and one of the men received a severe
blow. This was however borne without return. On inquiry, it w^as
found that Anderson had been met but a few moments before the
party was mustered. He was armed with a musket, pistol, and
cutlass, and was esteemed one of the most correct and prudent men
in the ship. The boats were now shoved off a short distance from
the beach, and beyond the reach of the native arms, w^hen several
muskets were fired to notify him, and his name repeatedly called,
which could have been heard in any part of the village; but no
Anderson appeared. Captain Hudson finally came to the conclusion

^

^ 1

1 r

tr^-.

t^

g

C=)

.1"

m

\

)

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 57

F

» - that he had either been enticed away by the women, or that the

natives had detained him, in the hopes of receiving a ransom for his
release, and that he would either return in one of the canoes to the
ship, or be given up on a reward being offered. Under these impres-
sions, he ordered the boats to return to the ship. Many of the officers
were of the opinion that he had been murdered; yet it was scarcely
to be believed that they should have been enabled to overcome with-
out noise a well-armed man, and one who had been cautioned against
their treachery. After they had pushed off some distance, it was
thought that a white man was seen on the beach ; but on returning, it
proved that they were mistaken.

On the morning of the 8th, it became evident that something had
taken place, for not a canoe came alongside before breakfast, which
induced a general belief that Anderson had met with an untimely
end at the hands of the natives. The people of the adjoining town
of Eta, however, so far as they could be understood from their ges-
tures and language, seemed to intimate that the man was on shore
alive. Not a canoe, however, was recognised as belonging to the
town of Utiroa. A message was (notwithstanding the two tow^ns
were at w^ar) sent on shore, in hopes it would induce these savages
to restore Anderson, telling them that if the man was given back, a
large present of tobacco w^ould be paid for him. This was shown
them, and every endeavour was made to ascertain his fate. On look-
ing around among the natives, attention was called to one who was
believed to belong to Utiroa. The eagerness with which this man was
regarded by all, caused him so much alarm, that he at once sought
flight in his canoe; but he could not get his sail arranged, and was
soon overtaken by one of the ship's boats. The countenance of the
native, on being overtaken, w^as one of great fear. On finding he
could not escape, it immediately changed to one the most amiable and
friendly. He began by saying that the boat was good, the ship was
good and large, and all that w^as in her was good. Mr, Hale ex-
plained to him w^hat was required of him. It was difficult to ascertain
that he understood these things at the time, for the native was inclined
to assent to every thing; but Mr. Hale has since had reason to be
satisfied from the words he used that the object in view, of obtaining

Anderson, vvas well understood. •

The whole of the day was occupied in surveying, and connecting
the work with that of the tender, w^hich vessel, with the boats, had
returned in the morning. The surveying boats, w^hile engaged, were
satisfied that the natives were disposed to be hostile.

Their visiters during the day w^ere all from the other parts of the

VOL. v. 8

58 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

island, and were unacquainted wiih the accident that had happened ;
but on being informed of it, they made every endeavour to explain
that they did not belong to the guilty town. There are fourteen towns
on the island, as follows, beginning at the north, viz.:

TOWNS.

CHIEFS.

Muribama or Tenaiay, • • • • , • . Tipera.
Te-niaroku, • • .

Terikiai,
Eta,

Utiroa,

Tauma,

Kabura,

Peia,

Tarentoa.
Toarimaroa.
Tama and Moleia.
Tebakoa,

• ••••••••• Tepikau.

Apamarikoro, ••..•.»,, Payau.
Parepatu, Tentaki.

Tewai,

Tauyaia,

Puari,

Nukutoru,

Taku,

Aiiri.
Tauraura.

Tapare.
Pautua.

Putiutoa.

that

Utiroa, which is estimated at from one thousand to one thousand two
hundred, it would give this small strip of land as great, if not a greater
number of inhabitants per square mile, than any portion of the globe
that relies upon its own resources for subsistence.

The four northern towns are apparently united together, and hostile
to the southern ones. Between Eta and Utiroa there is a considerable
space uninhabited, which appears to form a line of separation between
their territories.

Captain Hudson made up his mind that there could be little doubt,
after so much time had elapsed without intelligence, and taking into
view the conduct of the Utiroans, that Anderson had been treache-
rously murdered. He therefore believed it to be a paramount duty to
punish them, not only for this perfidious act, but to secure their good
conduct hereafter, in case of other vessels touching at this island.

In consequence of this determination, the boats were prepared for
landing, and Mr. Knox was ordered to anchor the tender in a position
near the shore opposite the town, in order to protect them.

The boat expedition, consisting of Lieutenants Emmons, Perry, and
De Haven, Passed Midshipmen Davis and Harrison, and Mr. Free-
man, the sailmalver, was put under charge of Mr. Walker, the first-
lieutenant of the ship, and particular instructions given to him relative
to his conduct These will be found in Appendix IIL Messrs. Peale,
Hale, and Agate, accompanied the expedition.

The expedition consisted of seven boats ; in them were embarked

ELLICE^S AND KINGS MILL GROUP. 59

about eighty officers and men* About nine o'clock they approached
■ the town. The first object that attracted' attention was a column of
smoke arising fron:i the small building that stood on piles in front of
the town before spoken of On arriving near the beach, the thi-ee
divisions formed in a line abreast, according to ihe directions. Lieu-
tenant Walker, with Mr. Hale, (who acted as interpreter,) now showed
the white flag, and pulled in toward the beach in front, in order to hold
a parley, make further inquiries relative to Anderson, and endeavour
to have him given up, if alive. There were about five hundred natives,
well armed, on the beach, and others were constantly coming in
from all sides : they shouted and shook their weapons with threatening
gestures. Many of them, however, seemed undecided how to act;
and their whole appearance, though formidable enough, was yet quite
ludicrous in the eyes of the men, equipped as the savages were in their
cumbrous coats of mail and fish-skin helmets.

As the boat approached, several of the natives advanced towards it,
preceded by a chief fully equipped in armour, and holding a spear in
his right hand. Mr. Hale then explained, the object they had in view,
and showed the large quantity of tobacco which they had brought for
a ransom. The chief appeared to understand, and pointed to the shore,
making signs at the same time for them to come in. The savages
who attended the chief had now increased in numbers, and were close
to the boat, while the whole body was advancing slowly forwards.
Finding that it was not only useless but dangerous to continue the
parley, the boat was pulled back into line.

Having thus failed to procure the desired end, the most humane
manner of effecting their punishment was conceived to be at once to
show them the power of our arms, and sacrifice some of the most
prominent among the savages. Lieutenant Walker, therefore, re-
quested Mr. Peale, the best shot of the party, to give them a proof of
it, and thus prevent the farther effusion of blood. This was accord-
ingly done by singling out one of the foremost, and a rocket was also
discharged, which took its flight towards the great body of them.
The latter missile caused great confusion, and many of them turned
to seek the shore, but their terror did not last long, and they made
another stand, brandishing their spears and weapons as if bent upon a
trial of strength with their opponents ; the falling of their chiefs waa^
disregarded, and few seemed to consider the effects produced, except
those who were wounded. A general volley soon follow^ed, which
caused them all to retreat, some in great haste, while others moved
more slowly towards the shore, seeming to be but little impressed •

60 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

as to the character of our arms. The wounded and dead were all
carried off The boats now pushed in for the beach, and by the •
time they had reached it, there was not a native of the whole host to
be seen-

The three divisions then landed, and the first and second proceeded
to fire the mariapa and town, while the third remained to guard the
boats. The whole was soon in a blaze, and but a short time sufficed
to reduce it to ashes. The natives were still to be seen in small
parties, out of reach of the guns, among the cocoa-nut groves. After
the work of destruction had been effected, the divisions ajjain returned
to the boats. The place now exhibited a very different picture from

pres^ted

The blackened sites

were all that remained of the former dwellings, the council-house was
entirely in ashes, the fences were torn down, and the cocoa-nut trees
leafless.

The tide having fallen, three bodies were found, one of whom was
the young chief who had been so troublesome and insolent to our
gentlemen, and who it was believed had been active in the murder of
poor Anderson.

While the party were getting ready to embark, a small party of
natives were seen coming towards them from Eta; these were all un-
armed, and had cocoa-nut leaves and mats tied round their necks: they
had come to assure our party of their good-will, and their joy at the
destruction of Utiroa. One old man in particular repeated frequently
his assurances, with much laughter and many grimaces. No sooner
had they ascertained that the intentions towards them were not hostile,
than they began to pillage the burning town.

The number of houses destroyed was supposed to be about three
hundred, besides upwards of a dozen large canoes- The loss of life
was twelve on the part of the natives; there was no one injured on
our side.

From the fact that the natives had lefl every thing in their dwell-
ings, it was clear that they did not anticipate the fate that was to befall

hope

prospect

plunder. This would be in perfect accordance with their customs
^nd constant practice of attempting to cut off all vessels or boats that
may visit their islands. Although I have no reason to come to this
conclusion from our own knowledge respecting this island, yet from
all the accounts of those who have resided some time among like
savages, their first idea is always to capture or possess themselves of

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 61

the vessel or any of the boats. We have seen that this is put in prac-
tice among the Feejees, and others, who regard all vessels wrecked as
sent to them as a gift from the gods.

Very few articles escaped the general conflagration, but of these
some were brought off to the ship; among which were two slsuUs, that
had been well polished and cleaned. These were found in the loft of
one of their houses, and had evidently been preserved, with great care,
as relics.

There are but few domestic animals on this island: a dog, two or
three cats, and a few fowls, were all that were seen. Rats are in
abundance, as has been shown by the care the natives take to protect
their lofts from these very troublesome creatures-

The food of the inhabitants consists principally of fish, cocoa-nuts,
the fruit of the pandanus, taro, and api; to these may be added
tobacco. They have but few modes of dressing these articles. The
fruit of the pandanus they use as food, which w^as considered by the
natives as a great delicacy; it may be said to be exceedingly coarse,
so much so, that the fibres of the pandanus are seen in their excre-
ment in great quantities; even the husks of the young cocoa-nuts
are eaten.

No land-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, turnstones,
noddies, and w^hite terns; manv whales' bones were strewed over the
beach.

This was the first place where they had observed the Tridachna
gigas : they were of enormous size; the natives used them for troughs,
for many purposes, around their houses.

Necklaces of human teeth were also prized, and brought off for
sale.

During the day of the 9th, the thermometer stood in the sun at 159**
Fahrenheit.

The character of these islanders is the most savage of any that we
met with; their ferocity led to the belief that they were cannibals,
aUhough no positive proofs w^ere seen of it They are under no
control whatever, and possess little of the characteristic hospitality
usually found in savage nations. It was observed also that their
treatment of each other exhibited a great want of feeling, and in many
instances, passions and propensities indicative of the lowest state of
barbarism. Their young girls were offered to be disposed of, by their
fathers and brothers, alongside the ship, openly, and without conceal-
ment; and to drive a bargain for them, was one of the principal objects
of their visits to the ship.

Among their weapons, they have a short spear, which is armed with

F

^■■^^ ^.1

62 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

m

half a dozen barbs from the tail of the raja or stingray, which is sup-
posed to prove mortal, if broken off in the wound. They have also a
club, about four feet long, made from the cocoanut-wood, which is
pointed at each end; it is used for warding off a spear, to make a
thrust, or wielded as a club.

In the use of tobacco, they are truly disgusting, for they eat it and
swallow it, with a zest and pleasure indescribable. Their whole mind
seems benl upon obtaining this luxury, and consequently it will com-
mand their most valuable articles.

They are, to all appearance, a lawless race, and no sort of govern-
ment seems to control them; all seize upon whatever property they can,
and, as has been before mentioned, the very chiefs themselves were
subject to the same treatment that they observed towards our party;
the greatest villains and bullies among them seemed to have the most
control ; while the chiefs had little more than nominal authority, and if
they had any privileges, they did not seem to extend beyond their small
enclosures-
There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and
no inducement to visit it, except to trade for a few cocoa-nuts and

curiosities.

Good whaling-ground exists in the vicinity, and our whalemen are
in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood: those w^ho visit these
wretches ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their
numbers are large, and they are prone to mischief. All intercourse
with them should, therefore, be conducted with great caution, espe-
cially in ships weakly manned.

It is to be hoped that the punishment inflicted on Utiroa for the
murder of Anderson will be long remembered, and prove a salutary
lesson to the numerous and thickly-peopled towns of Taputeouea, or
Drummond's Island.

On the same evening, (the 9th,) they weighed anchor, and on the
next day made Bishop's or Sydenham Island, which they surveyed the
following day.

Off the north point of Bishop's Island, there is a shoal extending one
and a half miles to the northward and westward, the water on which
is discoloured, and where the Peacock found nine fathoms. The native
name for Bishop's or Sydenham Island, is Nanouti; it lies in latitude
00"* 36' S., and longitude 174'' 24' E.; it is of coral formation, and %
mere ledge of land, Uke Drummond's Island, with a lagoon, reef, and
bank, on its lee or southwest side. The survey made it nineteen miles
long, trending northwest and southeast, and its width, including lagoon
and reef, eight and a half miles. On the southwest and northwest

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 63

porlions of it, there is a coral bank, from one to one and a half miles
beyond the reef, on which there is ten fathoms water. At the distance
of four miles from the northwest end of the island, they found soundings
in two hundred and sixty-five fathoms.

The island is partially covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and otlier
trees; and the islets of which it is formed are nearly continuous, con-
nected by the usual coral reef. They had no communication with
the natives of Nanouti- A daily intercourse is kept up between it and
the Drummond Islanders. It was thought there was no difference in
their characters. The distance between them is but fifteen miles.

From the north point of this island, there was a small island in sight,
which was at first supposed to be Duperrey's Isle du Nord ; but if it be,
instead of being located to the northward, as he has placed it, it bears
nearly south of the north extreme of Nanouti. They found, on pro-
ceeding towards it, that it was a hummock, connected by a reef with «
Nanouti ; but no Sable Island could be seen. The tender passed round
the opposite side of Nanouti, and did not see any island ; and the
officers of both vessels are fully convinced that no Sable Island exists.

On the night of the 10th, they had much thuqder and lightning, with
a heavy swell from the northeast.

At daylight on the 11th, they made Henderville Island, called by the
natives Nanouki. The weather was too unfavourable to proceed with
the survey. Simpson or Harbottle, Hopper, and Woodle Islands, were
in sight. The weather continued stormy, with heavy thunder and
lightning.

On the 12th, they succeeded in surveying Henderville Island, and
connected it with Woodle Island. Towards night they again had
stormy weather, with the wind from the eastward. Henderville Island
was determined to be in latitude 00"^ 11' N., and longitude 173° 39'
20" E. This island is six and a half miles long, east and west, and
five and a half miles wide at the east end, diminishing to two miles at
the west end : it is of coral formation. There are two towns on the
west end, and several on the east and southeast parts, and it is thickly
inhabited. The natives who came on board said that the two ends of
the island were at war with each other. They are very much the same
in appearance as the natives of Drummond's Island; were naked, and
spoke the same dialect. These natives knew of the islands in their
immediate vicinity, as well as the direction of Taputeouea, or Drum-
mond's Island, and gave them the name of being inhabited by a savage
and hostile people. This island affords neither wood, water, nor
refreshments: from appearances, its inhabitants must be at times much

stinted for food. They brought off nothing except a few cocoa-nuts;

64 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

but the object of their errand was not to be misunderstood, for in each

canoe there was a woman, which I think does not speak much in the

praise of the whalers or other ships that frequent this cruising-ground.

While on board, one of the natives gave them an exhibition of a dance,

which was different from those before seen, inasmuch as it consisted

of a variety of motions and moving from one place to another, in quick

steps, and in throwing about the arms, with many contortions of the

body, and vehement gesticulations. The dance was accompanied with

a kind of song or chaunt, consisting of the monotonous repetition of .

words, uttered in a short, quick, and distinct tone ; each dance was

finished with an outstretched hand, and an earnest cry of tebake.

It was next determined to survey Hall's Island, called by the natives

Maiana, as the fair wind and the night would enable Captain Hudson

to accomplish it and return to complete that of Woodle Island, or

Kuria. Maiana is of coral formation ; the northeast and southeast

parts are continuous land, whilst to the southwest and northwest it

consists of a reef and bank, in some places awash, with a sand-spit

in its lagoon. The western sides of the island are therefore very

dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as the sea seldom

breaks on them, and the discolouration of the water is not at all times

to be observed. The natives of this island have the same appearance

as those already spoken of, and use the same dialect: only one canoe
came off, and held a short communication with the ship. The island

appears to be thickly inhabited, but its natives have had little inter-
course with the whites. It affords neither refreshments, wood, nor
water. The survey makes this island nine miles long, in a northeast
and southwest direction, and six miles in width, in a southeast and
northwest direction : it is situated in latitude 00*^ 56' 45" N., and
longitude 173° 04' 15" E. On its west side, on some of the banks,
there is anchorage in from ten to fifteen fathoms of water.

On the morning of the 15th, they made the island of Apamama, the
Hopper Island of Duperrey, and the Simpson's Island of the charts of
Arrowsmith. It is about five feet above the surface of the ocean; is
ten miles long, northwest and southeast, and five miles in width, north
and south. .The land is continuous on the north and east sides, except-
ing two small strips of bare reef There is anchorage on the west side
in an opening between the reef and the northwest point of the island,
which is about two miles wide. The soundings vary from two to five
fathoms: across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral; in
others, it is coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible,
should not be attempted through this passage; but there is a good
passage into it on the southeast side of the island, which is a mile

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP. 65

wide. A survey was made of this island, and its anchorages exa-
mined. The boats when ashore comniunicated with the natives, who
resenable those of the adjacent islands. It has a large population, but
yields little more than will supply their wants. A small quantity of
fresh water may be had by digging on the beaches: wood and re-
freshments are not procurable for shipping*

This island is. situated in latitude 00° 27' 21" N., and longitude
173° 57' 30" E. : it has heretofore been represented as two islands on
the charts, called on one Simpson's, and the other Hopper and Har-
bottle ; but there is only one, joined by the same reef.

They next returned to Kuria or Woodle's Island.

On the 16th, while engaged in the survey, some canoes came off
to the ship, when the natives came on board without hesitation,
an evidence of their having had communication with ships, and
their confidence of good treatment. It was soon reported, that a
white man was coming off; and, as in all such cases, he was
looked for and watched with great interest, and, various surmises
were made relative to his origin and history. They were not
long left in doubt, for before he reached the deck, his voice be-
spoke him an Irishman. He was dressed in a- pair of duck trousers
and red flannel shirt, and announced himself as "John Kirby, a
deserter from the English whale-ship Admiral Cockburn." He said
he had been on the island for three years; that he was living with
the daughter of the principal chief; and solicited a passage to some
civilized place.

The principal chief of the island, with his daughter, whom Kirby
had for a wife, came on board with him. They both seemed deeply
affected, W'hen they learned that he had received permission to remain
on board, and was about to leave them; and both endeavoured to dis-
suade him from going.

His wife showed much concern, and wished to accompany him : the
old chief, her father, endeavoured to persuade him to take her. Find-
ing sh^ could not prevail, she requested as a parting gift, an old jack-
knife, the only property he had left to give. Several presents were
made to her by the officers and men, which reconciled her somewhat
to her lot. The natives all left the ship much gratified, excepting-
Kirby's wife, who continued to be somewhat downhearted.

Kirby proved an intelligent man : he understood the language, and
was well acquainted with the character, manners, and customs of the
islanders, among whom he had lived from the 11th of February, 1838,
to the 15th of April, 184L His presence in the ship afforded Captain
Hudson an opportunity, not only of communicating with the natives

VOL. V. F2 9

66 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

more freely, but of obtaining much interesting information relative to
this group.

Woodle

to contain between four and five thousand inhabitants. Its geographi-
cal position is in latitude 0^ 14' 30" N., longitude 173^ 27' K: its
greatest length is five miles, northwest and southeast , and its greatest
width, which is at the southeast end, is two and a. half miles. The
remainder is very narrow, and almost divided towards the centre.
The northwest portion has two small lagoons, two or three hundred
yards from the beach ; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean.
In one of them, the bottom consists of red mud on one side, while it is
a white clay on the other. They are used as fish-ponds by the chiefs.
There is a reef extending to the northwest nearly three miles.

The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa-
nut, pandanus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef,
and may be approached very closely. It affords neither wood, water,
nor refreshments. The natives who visited the ship brought oif very
little for trade : fish-hooks and lines, small mats, cocoa-nut syrup, and
a few cocoa-nuts, composed their whole stock.

The females that accompanied the canoes wore the maro, and were
thought to be better-looking than the others of the group ; but their
whole manner was in keeping with the purposes for which their fathers
and brothers had brought them oflf.

No war implements were seen ; the men, who were naked, resea:i-
bled the others of the group, except that they did not appear so much
disfigured by scars.

Kirby states, that on the first night of his landing, they stripped
him of every thing but an old pair of trousers, after which he was
conducted to a great conclave of natives, assembled around a large
fire, which he then believed was intended to roast him. He had fortu-
nately gone on shore in the highest chief's canoe, and placed himself
under his protection, as well as he knew how. After some considera-

^

ble talk, instead of being roasted, he was furnished with a wife, and
taken to reside with his friend, the principal chief, who, with the rest
of the natives, ever after treated him kindly. After a few months*
• residence in the family of the chief, he gave his own daughter to Kirby
for a wife. The result of this was much jealousy and eavy between
his first wife, of common origin, and his last, of high rank, until the
former was ousted and sent back to her parents, leaving the chief ^s
daughter in quiet possession of the house.

During Kirby's residence on the island, several English, and one
American whaler, had been off the island, on which occasions he had

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

67

been employed as pilot and interpreter. The natives were constantly
asking him, after their departure, why he " did not fool the vessels
and run them on shore, that they might plunder them." One of the
above vessels left two pigs, two goats, and a pair of Muscovy ducks;
but no sooner had the vessel left, than ihey killed them all, from some
superstitious fears, and threw them into the sea, notwithstanding all
Kirby's remonstrances and entreaties to have them spared, and allow
him to eat them,

Kirby says that the natives, though not professed cannibals, some-
times eat human flesh; but their food is generally fish. They do not
eat fowls, and will not raise pigs, on account of their filth. Their
treacle is extracted from the spathes of the cocoa-nut trees, an opera-
tion which, if frequently repeated, destroys the tree. They are very
fond of cock-fighting-

The conduct of foreigners w^ho visit these islands is sometimes of a
most outrageous character. Instances of this kind are daily occur-
ring, a number of which came to my knowledge; and the following
occurrence it seems to me is of a character that ought to be made
public, in order to bring such conduct, and the persons who are fifuilty
of it, to tne notice of their own nation.

NATIVE GIRL OF PERU ISLAND.

Some four or five months before the Peacock's visit, Kirby states
that one Leasonby, master of the whale-ship Offley, of London, and
whose mate was an American, named Lake, landed six young girls on
tliis island, whom he had obtained at Peru, or Francis Island. After

'. ^

68 ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

having kept them on board several days, he brought them here to save
himself the trouble of beating his vessel up to the island to which they
belonged.

These young girls were extremely good-looking, and are now slaves
to the chief of this island, and made to labour and satisfy his lusts.
They were landed on Kuria, in despite of their entreaties and tears.
These people are in the habit of killing all strangers from islands not
connected with their immediate group; but the lives of these girls
w^ere spared, and they were retained in bondage. Two of them were
brought off to the ship, who entreated most earnestly to be kept on
board, and to be carried to their home. The engraving on the pre-
ceding page is made from Mn Agate's drawing of one of them.

The published charts of these islands were found so inaccurate, as
to be a cause of danger rather than of safety ; for in them the islands
are multiplied, and every hummock or detached islet on the same reef
is represented as separate, and a name assigned it. Thus a confusion
exists, that it is almost impossible to unravel How so many errors
could be committed, can only be accounted for by the fact that those
who had the publication of the charts formerly were generally ignorant,
and did not take that care to sift and examine the information that was
essential to accuracy.

Several islands are laid down here on the different charts, but those
only really exist which are named Tarawa, or Knox Island ; Apia, or
Charlotte Island ; and Maraki, or Matthew's Island.

Tarawa, or Knox Island, is in length twenty miles, trending north-
west and southeast. The land is continuous and wooded, with the
exception of four gaps, where the reef is bare. The south side is
twelve miles long, and trends nearly east and west. On this part, near
the western end, are three hummocks (which appear like islands in the
distance), and several small sand-banks, which are connected by the
same reef. This island has its lagoon, but it has the appearance of an
extensive bay, in consequence of the reef on the west side being a
sunken one, on which is found five fathoms of water.

This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut
trees on it, and a dense undergrowth. Several towns were seen on it,
and it appeared to be thickly inhabited. It affords no supplies for ves-
sels. Three canoes came off to the ship, two of which kept at a
respectful distance, while the third approached with great caution.
Some few pieces of iron hoops enticed the natives on board, but they
brought nothing for trade, except half a dozen cocoa-nuts. They stated
that they had never seen a vessel before. This may be true, but
appeared somewhat incredible, when they are so near other islaads

i

ELLICE^S AND KINGS MILL GROUP. C9

which have had constant intercourse with shipping. They appcurc<l

entirely ignorant of the use of tobacco, which it will be recollected llic
other natives coveted so much; and what seemed to confirm the belief
in the truth of their assertion of the visits of ships, was the absence of
females in the canoes, which had been w ilh the natives of the other
islands so prominent an article of barter.

They seemed delighted with the pieces of old iron, and regarded
junk-bottles with admiration. They are entirely the same in appear-
ance, and in character and customs, with the rest; they go naked, and
speak the same dialect.

Tarawa lies in latitude 1° 29' N., and longitude 173^ 05' E., and is
of coral formation. •

Until the 24th, they were engaged in the survey of Apia, or Char-
lotte Island. This consists of strings of coral islets, situated within a
reef, which is six and seven feet above the water. The reef has a
bluff front, and is much worn by the sea. There is no coral sand.
Apia was found to be in latitude 1° 52' N., and 173^ 02' E. It is a
lagoon island. Its length in the direction of northeast and southw^est
is sixteen miles, and its average breadth five. On the east side of the
island the land is covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus groves, with
some undergrowth. The northwest and w^est side is a continuous reef,
four or five feet above the water's edge, on which are many islets.
About the centre of the reef, on the southwest side, is a ship's channel
into the lagoon, which is half a mile wide. 'Near its entrance is a
small islet, which stands alone, and is a good mark for the entrance.
There is no island in the lagoon, as shown on the French charts of
Duperrey.

This island would appear to be thickly inhabited, from the number
of towns on it. Several canoes came off to the ship, which were
similar in construction to the others we had seen. . Their stock of
articles for trade was, as usual, scanty. There was but one woman
seen, and she proved as ugly as those previously met with had been
pleasing in their looks. They speak the same dialect, and are the same
people, although their intercourse seems to have been very much con-
fined to themselves. At the islet near the entrance to the lagoon, about
sixty gallons of water were obtained from the native well, but it was

flat and brackish.

When the boat

procured

turned

r --, — _ __ - ^ ^ - ^ ^

fears were effectually quieted by a few presents.

It was ascertained that their knowledge of other islands only ex-
tended to Tarawa, or Knox's Island, and two others. To one of these

»

70 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

they pointed in a direction west of north, and called it Maraki,
Matthew's Island ; and the other Taritari and Makin, which they said
were two days' sail, and which w^as believed to be Pitt's Island.

In the centre of the little village was one of the sacred stones, which
was described by Kirby as an object of worship. It consisted of a flat
slab of coral rock, about three feet high and two wide, set up on end and
dressed with a thick wreath of cocoanut-Ieaves. It was placed in the
centre of a circular platform of sand and pebbles, about nine feet in
diameter, raised five or six inches above the soil, and surrounded by a
ring of stones. At the foot of the coral slab were several large cocoa-
nuts, placed there as an offering to the divinity, whom the natives
styled Tabu-eriki. .The wood-cut at the end of the next chapter is a
drawing of one. The priest, a young man, with a mild and intelligent
countenance, remained constantly near the stone, never quitting the
platform for a moment- The houses w^ere built Hke those of Drum-
mond's Island, but the scuttles into the lofts were much larger, occa-
sionally occupying half the dividing floor. In some of the houses there
were two or three floors or stages, the second about two feet above the
first.

In the survey of this island the tender got aground inside the lagoon.
The moment that it w^as discovered by the natives that the vessel was
on shore, they began to flock around her, and were only kept off by

being fired at. Lieutenant Emmons did not join her with the boats till

after dark, when he found her situation such as to require great vigi-
lance on the part of the officers and men to preserve her. She had
taken the coral reef at high water, and the tide was rapidly falling,
leaving her on her bilge, and rendering her guns of no use for protec-
tion. The natives were making signals by burning fires, blowing war-
conchs, and evincing every disposition to attack her.

Captain Hudson, who observed the situation of the tender at sunset,
determined to keep the Peacock close to the island throughout the
night, to be near at hand to despatch boats in case of signal being
made that they required more aid, should the natives show a disposi-
tion to make an attack, and overpower the force that had already gone
to the tender's assistance. The Peacock w^as hove-to, with a moderate
breeze blowing, and from the fires seen during the night they believed
themselves close to the position they had taken at sunset. At daylight,
while lying-to, they drifted on a coral sand-bank, where the ship was
aground for a few minutes only. Their surprise was great when they
found that it %vas Tarawa or Knox's Island, on which they were
ashore, on its northwest side, and that they had drifted fully twelve
nniles by current to the southward during the r^i^ht. On board of the

ELLICE^S AND KIN GSM ILL GROUP. 71

>

tender ev^ery preparation was made to receive the savages, as it was
anticipated that the attack would be made at early daylight. They
were not mistaken in this, for at that time the natives were seen in
great numbers, but just then fortunately the tender floated. The natives
continued, however, to approach boldly until within musket-shot, when
they were motioned to keep off, which they disregarded. The head-
most canoe having struck its sail for the purpose of closing alongside.
Lieutenant Emmons fired his rifle, aiming so that the ball should pass
close by the head of the steersman: this alarmed him so much that he
immediately jumped overboard, and was followed by all the rest. The
remaining canoes now kept oflf; but continued to follow the tender

until she left the lagoon, w^hich she did by the passage through which
she had entered. When the natives found that the prize had escaped
them, they became outrageous, making use of many violent gesticula-
tions of the disappointment they had experienced.

The next island that claimed their attention was Maraki, or Mat-
thew's Island. It is much smaller than the two last, and situated in
latitude 2° 00' N., and longitude 173^ 25' 30" E. It is a lagoon island,
■without entrances, and of coral formation. It is but five miles long,
north-by-east and south-by-west, and two and a half wide at its base,
being of triangular shape.

It appears to be densely peopled, for many villages were seen, and
after dark a large number of fires were burning.

A canoe ventured alongside, in which was one of the natives, of an
herculean frame, and calling himself a chief. When asked how many
people they had on the island, he replied, as many as were on board
the ship. As all hands were on deck, it is supposed that his simile
was equivalent to a multitude.

The persons in this canoe were exceedingly desirous of getting old
iron hoops: they did not remain a long time on board, and seemed to
be uneasy. After they had obtained these small presents, they quietly
abandoned the ship, and on getting into their canoes, soon plied the
paddles in such a manner as showed that they were quite anxious to
get out of reach, seemingly congratulating themselves upon their mira-
culous escape. Their dialect and customs were the same as those of

^

the rest of the group.

On the 27th, the Peacock left Matthew's Island to look for Pitt's
Island, which they made on the 28th, at 9 a. m. On the 29th, the
weather permitted the survey to be made.

There are two islands known under this name: the largest is called
by the natives Taritari, and the smallest, Makin, The latitude of the
southern point of Taritari is 3° 08' N., longitude 172° 48' E. This

72 EL LICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

• island is of the figure of a triangle, with its apex to the south, and its
sides are about fourteen miles in length. The southeast side is a con-
tinuous grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with some undergrowth ; on
the other two sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the northwest
point, in which there is a small inlet.

Makin is of much smaller dimensions, being but six miles long: it
varies in width from half a mile to a mile. Its northern point lies in
latitude 3^ 20' 43" N., and longitude 172° 57' E. This small island is
the seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under
the one of Makin.

• It was soon evident that the island was thickly inhabited ; for when
the ship reached the lee side, in the afternoon, about twenty canoes
came off, containing from five to ten natives in each, and in one of
them was a white man, who was clothed in mats. The ship was im-
mediately hove-to to take him on board, and he gave his name as
Robert Wood (alias Grey), a Scotchman by birth, who was left by his
own wish on the island, seven years before, by the English whaling
brig Janie, of London, sailing from Sydney. He was under so great
excitement as to render his utterance quite unintelligible at times, and
some amusing scenes took place in consequence. On his reaching the
deck, he first inquired if he would be permitted to go on shore again;
and then, who was king of England; if there was peace with America;
for he had thought there must be a war. He had seen no white men
since he landed, and said that be had become old and grayheaded.
To prove the latter assertion he pulled off his apology for a hat, and
displayed a most luxuriant growth of jet-black hair.

He had not been on board long before he asked for a passage to
some civilized land ; and when he was informed that his wishes
would be gratified, he seemed for a time beside himself from excess
of joy. His feelings were evinced in his endeavours to interpret the
questions to the natives; he almost invariably repeated to them what
was said to him in English, in the same language; and gave back their
answers or expressions in the island dialect. This had a droll effect,
and he had frequently to be reminded that he was an interpreter.

Wood says, that the natives had always treated him kindly; and
for the first few months after his arrival among them, they carried
him about on their shoulders (he was the first white man that many
of them had ever seen), and almost deified him. They have no wars,
and very few arms, and seldom quarrel, except about their women-
The punishment of death is inflicted on those who infringe the seraglio

of the chiefs.

In the short intercourse the Peacock had with the natives of this

ELLICE'S AND KIN GSM ILL GROUP.

73

f

island, a great difference was perceptible between them and those of
the other islands, as well in respect to their appearance, as in charac-
ter. Their features were regular, and by some thought handsome ;
they had fine teeth, with glossy black hair, flowing in ringlets about
their heads ; they were also of a lighter colour than the rest of the
natives with whom they are grouped; their figures are, for the most
part, rotund, and they seem to have an abundance of food to become
fat upon. In walking, they appeared like a moving mass of jelly ;
every laugh set not only their sides in motion, but their whole frame
and flesh. On being asked how these people became so fat. Wood
replied, they had plenty of food and " toddy" to fatten upon : this last
is a syrup, called by the natives " karaca," made from the sap of the
young cocoa-nut trees: of this they drink immoderately. They wear
mustaches and whiskers, which are highly prized and carefully nursed
among them. They had a good-humoured cast of countenance, and
seemed peaceable and full of kindness. No scars were seen on their
bodies, neither had they any warUke instruments with them. All the
little casualties which so often affected the harmony of the natives
before, here produced no sort of disturbance; and each was inclined
to render the other assistance in repairing the accidents.

NiTIVE OF MAKIN ISLAND.

The men are very handsomely tattooed, of which the above cut

correct idea. On their reaching the ship, they appeared

will give a

vot. v.

G

10

74 ELLICE'S AND KINGS MILL GROUP.

to put the fullest confidence and reliance in the treatment they were
to receive, although, according to Wood, they had seen but one vessel
during his residence on the island, and consequently it could not be
from the habit of intercourse, but must have been a natural feeling.
There was no begging, no attempt to steal, as among all the other
natives of the group; but Wood gives them credit for the latter pro-
pensity among themselves on shore.

Their canoes are larger and better built than those of the southern
islands, and made of different wood ; and they are better supplied with
masts and paddles, but still of nearly the same shape : the side of the
canoe opposite to the out-rigger, was much less curved than the other,
resembling more the ** flying proa" of the Ladrone Islands.

Polygamy is common among them ; and Wood stated that some of
the principal chiefs and landholders have from twenty to fifty wives:
the king even exceeded this number; while the poorer class and slaves
are doomed to perpetual celibacy. The consequences of this state of
society may readily be imagined to produce illicit intercourse among
the lower classes.

The women are well treated; never offered for traffic, but on the
contrary, are held sacred; and in order to restrain any unlawful in-
dulgence on the part of his wives, his majesty has at times had some
of them sewed up in mats ! Wood represented the women as out-
numbering the men, and said they were very handsome. There are
five towns on the island, which, according to the authority of Wood,

contain about five thousand inhabitants.

The king, whose name was Tekere, came off to the ship. He was

a fine-looking man; but his corpulency was great, and appeared to

trouble him not a little: it was utterly impossible for him to get up

the side of the ship, and he therefore contented himself with being

paddled round it. His father, the former king, Jakintebuat, came

» 1^ IP

on board, with several of his sons, all of whom had a strong family
likeness. He appeared about sixty years old; and although a little
bald, he had no other appearance of age, either in his looks or the
firmness of his step.

When the vessels had made sail, in order to leave the island, and
it was supposed that all the natives had left the ship, one was found
hanging to the man-ropes near the water. Wood, on questioning the
native, found that he was a petty chief, who wished to accompany the
ship, and had taken this means of doing it, hoping not to be perceived
until he was out of sight of his island. He said he was too poor a
chief to have any wives, and therefore wished to leave his island, and
be landed on some other, where he could obtain some. Captain Hud-

t

^

ELLICE'S AND KINGSMILL GROUP.

75

son had a boat lowered at once, by which he was put on board a
canoe, that look him to the shore.

Two or three of the officers landed for a short time, but saw nothing
except a few fishing huts. Under the eaves of the huts, large shells of
the Tridachna gigas were placed to catch water. The entrance into
the lagoon has four and a half fathoms of water, and is about one-third
of a mile in width.

Mr. Peale found no quadrupeds except rats, which were in great
plenty, and running in all directions; of birds there were but few;

while terns and noddies were seen in the groves, and a few moths
were caught.

Mr. Rich found some tall Pisonias, Tournefortias, two species of
LTrticse, a Boerhaavia, and some cocoa-nuts. On the larger island they
seem to have a much greater variety of trees, but it was not visited.
They have bread-fruit, taro, and yams of two kinds, which are culti*
vated in the manner already described.

■%

ARJ^IS, .UlMOL'n, ETC., OF THE KI.VGSMIIX GRUUP.

}

»

I

^

CHAPTER III.

CONTENTS.

SOURCES OF INFORMATION IN RELATION TO THE KINGSMILL GROUP-ISLANDS OF
WHICH IT IS COMPOSED— THEIR GENERAL CHARACTER-THEIR SOIL— TARO-PONDS-
TRADITION OP THE ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE — ANCIENT INTERCOURSE BETWEEN

THE ISLANDS

NATIVES-THEIR SOCI

STATE— GOVERNMENT-DESCENT OF PROPERTY — RELIGIOUS BELIEF— PRIESTS— ORA-
CLES-OMENS—PRETENDED CO.HMTJNICATION WITH SPIRITS — BELIEF IN A FUTURE
STATE— THEIR ELYSIUM— THEIR MODE Of LIFE— THEIR CHARACTER— THEIR TREAT-
MENT OF CHILDREN, OF THE AGED, AND OF WOMEN— THEIR VVARS-CAWmBALISM
NOT PRACTISED — THEIR WEAPONS — THEIR HOUSES AND CANOES — THEIR MANU-
FACTURES — DRESS — ORNAMENTS — THEIR FOOD— THEIR MODE OF COOKING-THEIR
AMUSEMENTS-THEIR MARRIAGES -MODE OF GIVING NAMES - PR ACTICE OF ABOR-
TION—TATTOOING— FUNERAL CEREMONIES -DISEASES— CLIMATE OF THE GROUP-
EARTHaUAKES — POPULATION— THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH STRANGERS — THEIR
PRONENESS TO SUICIDE- THEIR IDEA OF AN ACCOMPLISHED PERSON — CON^TRAST
BETWEEN PITTS AND THE OTHER ISLANDERS— DEPARTURE OF THE PEACOCK AND
FLYING-FISH FROM THE KINGSMILL GROUP— THEIR CREWS PUT ON SHORT ALLOW-
ANCE—PESCADORES— KORSAKOFF— OBJECTS REiMAINING UNACCOMPLISHED -
RATION OF THE VESSELS — LARGE QUANTITIES OF MOLLUSCS— SHIP MAGN

SEPA-

OAHU— ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE FROM HONOLULU— REACH COLUMBIA RIVER.

G2

G7)

^

f

Vli*^r^..^j -"^ f^mJ»

s^

JJll ^^^im ^j:

^

D P- ir "

' -.

SI.

I

w I

CHAPTEK III

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE KINGSMILL

ISLANDERS.

184 1.

In order to obtain all the information possible from Kirby and Wood,
Captain Hudson placed them under the immediate control of Mr. Hale,
the philologist. This gentleman had thus an opportunity to examine
and cross-question them, during the whole time they remained on board
the Peacock. To his report to Captain Hudson, I am principally

indebted for the following information respecting the entire group.

Captain Hudson states to me, that the opportunity Mr. Hale enjoyed

was the very best for eliciting information, as they were upwards

of a month on board the ship, and were under examination day after
day.

Their accounts are deemed entitled by Captain Hudson and his
officers to much credit, from the fact that many things had passed
under their own eyes that perfectly agreed with the accounts that
Kirby, in particular, gave ; and he was found to have obtained much
fluency in speaking iheir language. It is likewise some confirmation
of Kirby's account, that Wood's in many particulars corresponded with
it, and in all as much so as could be expected between islanders that-
although allied in race, are now living under totally different circum
stances. Wood, it must be observed, had not, though a much longer
resident than Kirby, acquired so thorough a knowledge of the language,
or of their manners and customs, principally, it was thought, from a
want of aptitude for such observation-

The Kingsmill Group consists of fifteen islands, of which the
geographical positions have been already given in speaking of them

separately*

(79)

80 MANNERSANDCUSTOMSOF

They are as follow, viz. ;

NATIVE NAMES.

Maraki, • •
Makin and Taritari.

Apia, « • •

Tarawa, • •

Maiana, • •

Apatnama . •

Kuria, • •

Nanouki, • •

Nanouti, • * •

Taputeouea,

NAME ON CHARTS.

Matthew's Island.
Pitt's

Charlotte's "
Knox's »

HaU's "

Hopper's *•
Woodle's "
Henderville's "
Sydenham "
Drummond's "

The above are all those that were visited by the Peacock: the
natives, however, gave the names of others, which are said to be in the
neighbonrhood, to the number of six.

Peru,
Nukunau,
Arurai,
Tarn an a,
Onoutu.

Francis Island,
Byron's **
Kurd's "
Phoebe *•
Rotcher's »

I-

The first of these five are known on the maps, but the two last are
not. There is one which the natives of Apia designated by Tarawa-
ni-Makin, but I am inclined to believe it was intended for Pitf s Island.

The dimensions of these islands have been given, as well as the
facilities they afford ships, and the inducements to visit them. The
highest land of the group is not more than twenty feet above the sea,
and they are all of coral formation, having a general resemblance to
the coral islands spoken of in the early history of this voyage. It was
found that, unlike those, many of the islands of this group afforded
anchorage on sand-banks under their lee, or western side, and in some
of them the leeward reef appears to be in part wanting : this would form
a distinctive character, and Kirby bears testimony to the fact that
these islands are fast wearing away by the action of the sea on them
during the westerly gales.

The compact coral shelf is found at the depth of twelve feet beneath
the surface. There is another distinctive mark, which tends to prove
that these islands, instead of increasing, are actually wasting away,
which is, that in all cases where the island is at all exposed, it has
become a string of detached islets, a form it would be most likely first
to assume in undergoing such a change. Those containing passages
through the reef have been already pointed out; and in the Hydro-
graphical Memoir, full directions for entering the lagoons will be found

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. gi

I

4

Their soil, which is but a few inches in depth, is of coral sand and
vegetable mould, below which coral sand continues to be found, and
to this depth the wells and taro-patches extend. The rain-water
percolates thus far, and nneets the coral rock. Besides this rock, small
pieces of pumice are found, w^hich are supposed to have drifted to the
island. Of these great use is made, in cultivation, as a manure.

Their cultivation consists for the most part in that of cocoa-nut and
pandanus, which are their chief articles of food. They also culti-
vate with great care a species of the taro (Arum cordifolium), which
is called by the natives " poipoi," and is said to grow to a very large
size ; but all that was seen by the officers was small, and apparently
withered.

Bread-fruit trees are to be found on the northern islands, but the
tree was not seen on the southern- They pay more attention to the
rearing of trees than in any other islands of Polynesia, for the cocoa-
nut trees are fenced round, and pounded pumice is mixed with the
soil near their roots. This stone is collected by the women, who are
frequently to be seen in numbers on the beaches, after westerly w^inds,
picking it up in small baskets.

There is likewise a purslane, which is abundant, and according to
Kirby, is eaten in cases of scarcity or famine. The excavations for
the planting of taro are of various sizes, generally one hundred feet in
length, by fifty in breadth. On Makin or Pitt's Island, it is said, there
is a trench about ten feet wide, and not less than seven miles long, dug
around the lagoon, from which it is separated by an embankment.
The water in this trench is but slightly brackish, and sufficiently fresh
to nurture the taro. The natives are remarkably careful to keep this
plant free from w^eeds, or any thing that may affect its growth; and
they are in the habit of loosening the root, with this view. There is
no particular season when it comes to maturity, neither do they
observe any particular time for planting it. On Makin, they have a
kind of fruit resembling the gooseberry, called by the natives "teiparu;'*
this they pound, after it is dried, and make with molasses into cakes,
which are sweet and pleasant to the taste.

Of all the native accounts of the peopling of the groups of the islands
in the vast Pacific, that of the Kingsmill Group bears the strongest
impress of truth and historical probability. Whether this be owing to
the comparatively recent period at which they have been peopled, or
to their traditions having been less confused by mythological tales, it
is difficult to determine; but the facts appear so remarkable and pro-
bable, that few will read the account of them without giving it the full
weight of authentic history. This account states, that the first inhabi-

VOL. V. 11

82 MANNERSANDCUSTOMSOF

tants arrived in two canoes from Barness or Baneba, an island which
they say lies to the soulhwestward, and whence they had escaped
during a civil war, as the only means l^t them of preserving their
lives. After they had arrived upon this island and had begun a settle-
ment, two other canoes happened to arrive from an island to the
southeastward, which they called Amoi. The natives in the last
canoes were lighter in colour, and better-looking than their predeces-
sors, and spoke a different language. For one or two generations the
two races lived together in harmony; but the Baneba people covetuig
the wives of the men from Amoi, difficulties arose, which ended in the
Amoi men being put to death by those of Baneba, and the latter taking
possession of the women.

. From these sources all the Kingsmill natives are descended. The
bread-fruit is said to have been brought by the Amoi people, and the
taro by those of Baneba. The cocoa-nut and pandanus were found
growling on the island.

It is difficult to settle the position of Amoi, from its name; but the
direction in which it lies would designate the Samoan Group as the
islands referred to. Those of Baneba, it is suggested, might be de-
rived from the Caroline Group, although the direction does not exactly
correspond. The Ascension Island of that group has Boneba for its
native name.

What adds to the probability of this simple story, is the fact that
it is almost the only tradition these islanders have. That the islands
have been peopled within a period not very remote, is believed by the
natives themselves, and they state that only a few generations back
the people were much fewer than at present, wars less frequent, and
the communication between the islands safe and free. The grand-
father of Tekere, the present king of Kuria, is said to have voyaged to
every island in the group on a pleasure trip to see the world, about a
hundred years since. But, so estranged have the inhabitants of the
several islands become from each other, that if a canoe from one of
them should visit, or seek, through distress, another island, the persons
in it would in all probability be put to death, under the supposition of
their being spies, or In order to procure their bones and teeth for the
manufacture of ornaments.

The islanders of this group differ in their personal traits frotn those
of Polynesians, and more nearly resemble the Malays. Their colour
is a dark copper, a shade or two deeper than the Tahitian ; they are
of the middle size, well made, and slender. Their hair is fine, black,
and glossy ; the nose slightly aquiline, but a little broad at the base ;
the mouth is large, with full lips and small teeth ; the cheek bones pro-

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS.

83

«

ject forward, so as to give the eyes the appearance of being sunken;
their beards and mustaches are black and fine like their hair. Their
average height is about five feet eight inches, and the great niajority
would be called small men. The women are much smaller in propor-
tion than the men, with delicate features, slight figures, and, as before
remarked, they were generally thought pretty.

Tn this description, it will be necessary to remark, that the inhabi-
tants of Makin are not included; for they diflfer so much in point of
appearance from the others, that were it not for their manners, customs,
and language, they could not be classed among the same race. A
drawing of one is represented in the annexed engraving.

INHABITANT OF MAKIN.

/

Wood, who had lived among the latter people a long time, ac-
counted for their difference in appearance by their being at all times
abundantly supplied with food, and living an inactive life, with nothing
to disturb their peace, which has continued unbroken for upwards of a
century. They have from this cause become naturally indolent; and
iheir fullest enjoyment is in taking their ease. Their colour is a shade
lighter than that of the natives of the other islands of this group ; their
stafure taller, and their whole frame much larger; their limbs are full
and well rounded; their bodies as smooth as a child's; their features
oval, and more regular and delicate than those of the natives of the
southern islands of the same group.

As respects their social state, the people are divided into three
classes: the nea or omata (chiefs), katoka (landholders), and kawa
(slaves). The first apd last divisions constitute about three-fourths of
the population, and are about equal in numbers. The katokas are

84 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

persons who possess land, but are not of noble birth; many of these
were originally slaves, who have obtained land by acts of bravery, or
through the favour of their chiefs. The kawas are those who possess
no land, or no one from whom they can claim support. The omatas
consist of all the free and well born, who possess the greater propor-
tion of the land, as well as the political authority of the group. The
oldest male of a family is the chief of the community, and presides
over all their matters: he is called nea. They are, however, inde-
pendent of each other, although great deference is always paid to the
oldest among them.

In Makin, the class of katokas is not known; and the only dis-
tinctions they have, are the high and the low. This class, therefore,
appears to have been only introduced on Kuria and the adjacent
islands-

Wars between the different towns are of frequent occurrence; and
in some of the islands ambitious chiefs have obtained the rule through
conquests, and made themselves sovereign over the whole-
There does not appear to be any general authority existing through-
out the group, even in those islands that are in the neighbourhood of
each other, excepting in the islands of Apamama, Nanouki, and Kuria,
where there is a king, who governs the three: he resides on the former,
and is named " Tetalau." His grandfather was the first to make war,
and by conquest acquired supreme power in Apamama. The present
king has extended his authority over the two smaller islands, against
which he waged a successful war, in consequence of the murder of
one of his relations. To this little kingdom, most of the facts in re-
ference to the Kingsmill Group more particularly apply, as Kuria was
the residence of Kirby; but from the observations of the naturalists
and officers, I have little doubt that the manners and customs of the
other islands, with the exception of Makin, are very similar.

On Tarawa there is also a king, as well as on Makin; but it
appears that this has only been the case on the latter since the time
of the grandfather of the present king, called Teouki. The acquisi-
tion of royal power by him was said to have been effected only
through a series of bloody wars, which established his authority so
firmly, that peace and quietness have reigned for a century; nor has
any attempt been made on the part of the conquered chiefs to regain

their independence.

The government is carried on after the simplest patriarchal form,
the king contenting himself with receiving the tribute due him, without
intermeddling with the administration of the affairs of the separate
towns over which he rules.

^

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 85

According to Kirby., a king governs also on Taputeouea or Drum-
mond's Island ; but it has been seen by the experience of the Peacock
that his power was far from being paramount, it having been contested
by a large portion of the island.

There are places where the royal authority does not supersede all
other, and where the government is carried on by the whole body of
chiefs, who take rank according to their age. In these places, for the
purpose of accommodating all, there is in every town a large council-
house, called the mariapa, one of which has been before described.
In it every family of rank has its particular seat, along the side of the
house; the middle being occupied by the katokas and kawas, or
landholders and slaves, neither of whom have any voice in the affairs
of government.

When a meeting is deemed necessary, the oldest or presiding chief
sends out his messengers, whose business it is to summon the people,
which is done by blowing conchs in all directions. The council then
assembles, when the head chief lays before them the business, and
any one is at liberty to speak, and if he be so disposed, delivers his
opinion. The discussions are said to be at times very animated, and
violent quarrels sometimes take place between different speakers, who
are w^ilh difficulty prevented . from coming to blows by those who are
present. No regular vote is taken ; but the opinion of the majority is
very soon ascertained, and this decides the business.

The chiefs have absolute rule over their own families and slaves,
and can punish them at pleasure. Minor crimes are punished by the
offended party or his relatives, but in cases of importance, the decision
is made and the punishment ordered in council.

The great and marked distinction between these natives and those
of Polynesia is the absence of the taboo system, or any laws or prohi-
bitions under the control of the priest, or chiefs, that are believed to
emanate from their gods. Mr. Hale remarks, that the word taboo
occurs in several compounds in their language having the meaning of
sacred, but is not used by itself.

The succession to rank and property is hereditary. If a chief has
several children by different wives, the son of the mother of the highest
rank is the successor. If all the children should be equal in rank, the
eldest would receive twice as much land as the others; or if the father
does not choose to divide his property, the eldest son would receive the
whole, and is obliged to support his brothers and sisters, who are ex-
pected in return to w^ork for him, and cannot marry without his consent.
Females can inherit property, and their are heiresses in the Kingsmill
Group whose wealth allures many suitors. Slaves are held under strict

'*

86 MANNERSANDCUSTOMSOF

subjection, are considered as personal property, and cannot marry with-
out the consent of their masters.

The religious belief is of the simplest kind- The name of their
principal divinity is Wanigain, or Tabu-eriki. He is their most popu-
lar god, and considered by some the greatest. About two-thirds of
the people worship him as their tutelar divinity. The rest do not
acknowledge him, but have other deities; and some worship the souls
of their departed ancestors, or certain birds, fish, and animals. A fe-
male deity is the object of adoration to very many. She is called
Itivini, is reputed to be of a cruel disposition, and all the little children
who die are supposed to be killed and eaten by her. The natives
always refuse to eat the animals, fish. &c., worshipped by them, but
will readily catch them, that others may partake of the food.

Tabu-eriki's image has been before described, and a wood-cut repre-
senting it will be found at the end of the chapter. The coral stone
which represents him is always tied round with cocoanut-leavcs, and
these are changed once a month, to keep them constantly green. The
worship paid to this god consists in repeating prayers before this stone,
and depositing beside it a portion of the food prepared for their own
use. This is done not only at the time of festivals, but at their daily
meals, and also whenever they desire to propitiate his favour; the first
fruits o( the season are also offered to this god. Every family of any
distinction has one of these stones, which is considered by many of
them rather in the light of an altar than of an idol.

The female deity, Itivini, is worshipped in a small circle, formed by
a number of coral stones, three feet in diameter, which is covered with
white gravel; in the centre a cocoa-nut is set up. At the time prayers
are offered to her, this nut is bound with a wreath of leaves, and
anointed with cocoanut-oil.

There is another female deity, called Itituapea, who is worshipped
at a flat coral stone situated on the reef between the islets of Kuria
and Oneoka; the two are known on the chart by the name of Kuria.
Any one passing it, either on foot or in canoes, never fails to invoke
her favour, and if they have any food, leave a part of it on the stone,
which is never taken away.

The skulls of ancestors are carefully preserved by their family, and
held in great reverence. When they desire to invoke their spirits,
these skulls are taken down, wreathed with leaves, laid on a new mat,
anointed with oil, and presented with food. Fish and animals that are
held sacred are only addressed with prayers by their worshippers.

According to Wood, the names of Tabu-eriki, Itivini, and Itituapea
are unknow^n at Makin, and the only spirits the natives of that island

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 97

worship are those of their deceased ancestors. The custom on the
death of a great chief is to set up a similar stone and deck it with
cocoanutdeaves, after which such offerings as have been mentioned
are made to it. Kirby thought, from what he had seen, that the natives
of Kuria believed that their gods also had once been chiefs, who from
the lapse of time had been forgotten. For the performance of these
duties there are priests, but they do not enjoy any particular respect
or power on that account. The priests are called iboya or boya, and
are not a distinct class: any young man of high rank and possessed of
shrewdness may become a priest. Every family of consequence has
a priest to attend to its tutelar deity, who performs the rites and cere-
monies. The perquisites of priests consists only in the food ofiered to
the god, wdiich the former takes away after it has remained a short
time, and eats it at his own house. In the absence of the priest, the
father of the family officiates by ofTering up family prayers, and the food
is removed and eaten by some elderly person belonging to the house-
hold. Prayers are offered up either in a sitting or standing posture,
and are accompanied by no particular ceremony or gesticulations.
The prayers are usually petitions for health, long life, success in war,
fishing, the arrival of ships, and other blessings they may desire at the
moment, and which it is believed to be in the power of the gods to
give them.

The priest makes known the oracles of the gods, which he receives
in the following manner. On the sandy beach on the weather or
eastern side of the island, there are many houses, called ba-ni-mota,
or bota-ni-anti. These are of the usual size of the dwelling-houses,
but the walls are of coral stone, and they have no loft. The doorway
is always in the west end, because the Kainakaki, the country of souls,
lies in that direction. In the centre of this house, a stout pillar of coral
stone is built up to the height of three and a half feet, having in its
middle a hollow of about a foot in diameter; to this the priest puts his
ear, and pretends to receive the instructions of his god.

On Kuria there are six of these houses, and besides there are many

ft

hollow pillars standing uncovered along the beach, as it is not deemed
necessary that the oracle should always have a covering.

On Makin there is no regular order of priests, and the father of the
family, as in the case of the absence of the priest on the other islands,
officiates. On this island ihey have a class of men, which are un-

known to the others, conjurors, and persons who pretend to have inter-
course with spirits-

The natives of the group put great faith in omens and charms. The

r

most common mode of divination they call kaina, which is performed

88 MAl^NERSANDCUSTOMSOF

with the sprout or top of a young cocoa-nut tree. The leaves of this
are doubled in after a particular fashion, and according as the folds
coincide or not it is deemed a good or a bad omen. When these folds
do not coincide, they believe that one of their gods is probably offended,
and proceed to find out whether he be so or not, by taking a cocoa-nut
that is kept for the purpose, which they spin like a top before the sacred
stone or altar: if it falls with the upper end towards the stone, it is a
favourable omen; if otherwise, the god is angry, and must be appeased
by offerings and prayers.

At^ times they pretend to receive an intimation that their ancestors
are displeased, in which case their skulls are taken down and propi-
tiated by offerings.

They believe also in a species of cursing, called wainak, which con-
sists in invoking or praying to Death, in order to procure illness or the
displeasure of the gods on any one.

Shooting stars are deemed ominous of death to some member of
the family, which may occupy the part of the council-house nearest
the point of the heavens from whicli it took its flight. If accom-
panied by a train, it foretells the death of a female; if otherwise, that
of a male.

Some of the chiefs are believed to hold communication with spirits,

and to be able at times to foretell future events: they usually exer-
cise this pretended power at night ; and when a number of people are
sleeping in the mariapa, they are awakened by unnatural sounds,
proceeding from the chief, which are considered as the words of the
god, who speaks by him to announce the arrival of ships, the approach
of war, and other great events. When these predictions do not come
to pass, they always impute the failure to the intervention of some
other spirit.

They believe in an existence after death, and that on the death of a
person, his spirit ascends into the air, where it is carried about by the
winds, wherever they may chance to blow, until it finally reaches the
Kainakaki elysium. Only those who are tattooed can expect to reach
it, and these are generally persons of rank ; all others are intercepted
on their way, and doomed by a large giantess, called Baine. If those
who die are old and feeble, their spirits are conducted to the Kainakaki
by the shades of those who have died before them. The spirits of
children are carried to the realms of bliss by their female relatives,
and are nursed and taken care of until they are able to provide for
themselves.

The Kainakaki is supposed to be situated in the island of Tavaira,
or Gilbert's Island. Oi this island there are several curious mounds.

THE KIN GSM ILL ISLANDERS. 8U

*

of diflerent sizes, the largest of which is about a mile long by half a
mile wide ; some of them exceed twenty-four feet in height above the
surrounding soil : with this altitude, these are very conspicuous on a
low coral island. Each of these mounds is supposed to be the plar^o
for a Kainakaki, the great beauty of which is invisible to mortal eyes.
Here the spirits pass their time in feasting and dancing; and whatcvci'
they delighted in on earth, is now enjoyed to the fullest extent. The
ground of the Kainakaki is considered sacred, and though overgrown
with trees, no native will venture to cut them down: when a tree falls,
it is taken away, and another planted in its place.

The daily occupation of these natives will serve to give an estimate
of their character, and would seem to be necessary before speaking of
their customs.

They rise at daylight, wash their face, hands, and teeth, with fresh
water, and afterwards anoint themselves w4th scented cocoanut-oil.
They then proceed to their w^ork, and continue at it until the heat
becomes oppressive, which it does by nine or ten o'clock, when they
return to their houses, wash themselves again, and take their first
meal: all the middle of the day is passed in their houses, or in the
mariapa, in sleeping, or chatting with their neighbours. About four
o'clock in the afternoon they again resume their work, and continue
engaged at it until sunset, w^hen they return, and wash themselves for
the third time. They then take their second meal, and shortly after
dark retire to sleep. They have no torches, (except for great occa-
sions,) or any other means of lighting their houses, and are thus
compelled to retire early, so that their amusements, as well as their
occupations, cease wllh the day. The character of these islanders
has many things in it to condemn : although they are deceitful and
dishonest in their dealings, yet they are, in their intercourse with each
other, hospitable and generous; they never buy or sell, but if any
person desires an article which another has, he asks for it, and if not
too valuable and esteemed, is seldom refused : it is the general under-
standing that such favours are to be returned, and that the request

should only be made by persons who can afford to do so* They
always place food before a stranger, and any one who has not a suffi-
cient supply at home is at liberty to join the meals of a more fortunate,
neighbour. According to Kirby, there are many who are desirous
of avoiding this tax upon them, and take their meals after dark, when
they are not so liable to be intruded upon by their hungry fellow-
townsmen.

They are addicted to thieving, although they are severely punished
for it when detected. They are easily excited to anger, but are soon

VOL. V. H5 12

90 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

appeased, nor is the occasion of offence remembered with any feelings
of rancour. The women seem to possess stronger passions than the
men, and more enduring wrath; jealousy is the principal exciting
cause with them, and they will sometimes carry a small weapon, made
of a shark's tooth, concealed for months, watching an opportunity of
making an attack ; desperate fights are the consequence of this, and
so much injury is done before these ferocious combatants can be
parted, that they often suffer from terrible wounds. Yet Kirby says,
he found in other respects than this the women always more humane
and gentle than the men.

Like all savages, they are treacherous and cruel to the last degree ;
although they seem less prone to fighting than other natives whom
we had met during our cruise. Kirby mentioned, that they had had
no war on the three islands where he was resident, for upwards of
five years. This may be partly owing to the difficulty of fitting out
expeditions to attack the other islands, and the hazard of communi-
cating with those islands of which they have a knowledge.

Another custom is remarkable: when a fisherman arrives with a
well-loaded canoe, his neighbours assemble around him, selecting and
taking away such as they please, leaving the owner nothing in return
but the satisfaction of knowing, that on a similar occasion he has a like
privilege to help himself Custom has so far sanctioned this habit of
appropriating things belonging to another, that, according to Kirby,
they have no term to designate a poor man, except that of slave. Any
one who owns land can always call upon others to provide him with a
house, canoe, and the necessaries of life ; but one who has none is con-
sidered* as a slave, and can hold no property whatever.

The courtesies of life with them are

them

belon

another as their own. Their salutations on meeting are confined to
simple inquiries, " Where are you going V or, ** Whence do you
come?' The rubbing of noses is only practised on special occasions.
On meeting a chief, the other natives leave the path and stand aside
until he passes, but make no gestures or expression of obeisance. This

;pect

sex.

They are said to be kind and affectionate to their children, and to
indulge them in every thing ; they never punish them even for the most
insolent and passionate behaviour, only using kind and affectionate
words : this may account for the rude treatment that was observed to
be in practice among the natives of Drummond's Island towards our
gentlemen as well as their conduct towards each other. There is, how-

I

I

r

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. 91

ever, no want of attention lo the aged who are not able to provide for
themselves; and those who neglect their old relations are held in liltle
respect. The aged enjoy much consideration, and, as 1 have Before
stated, great respect is paid to them in council.

More consideration is awarded to the female sex than has been ob-
served in any of the other groups. All the hard labour is performed
by the men, whose employment consists in building the houses and
canoes, catching fish, collecting and bringing home the produce of ihei
plantations, and attending to the cultivation of the taro, in which the
women assist only by weeding the ground. The employment of the
females is almost exclusively confined to in-door occupations, and those
which we ourselves hold as belonging naturally to the sex, such as
cooking and preparing food, braiding mats, &c., and they seem lo have
exclusive control over the house. The work of both sexes is, how-
ever, very light, and the greater proportion of their time is spent in
pastimes, of which idleness forms the most considerable part. Although
the women are relieved from the toils of life, yet they are not held to
be above chastisement, and a man will not hesitate to strike a -woman ;
but the fair ones consider themselves equally free, and seldom fail to
return the blow, and the aggrieved party generally receives the aid of
her companions, when the man is glad to escape from the bruises,
blows, and scratches they inflict.

Among this people chastity is not regarded as a virtue, nor consi-
dered as any recommendation in the selection of a wife; but after
marriage, a woman must be extremely guarded in her conduct, as the
punishment for a want of duty in this respect is severe, even amounting
to death in some cases; but it is usually limited to expulsion from her
husband's house. Notwithstanding these penalties, iliere are frequent
infractions of these ties, and it is not surprising that they should occur,
under their system of polygamy, and the interdiction which prevents
the younger brothers of chiefs, and persons who do not hold land, from
marrying. Intrigues and elopements are not unfrequent, and produce
the same results as elsewiiere.

War, on all the islands with the exception of Makin, is a part of their
business, and apparently engages most of their attention. Their con-
flicts may be considered as civil wars, for little communication is held
between any of the islands, except those of Apamama, Nanouki, and
Kuria, which are under the king of Apamama. The communication
that takes place between the others is in consequence of the escape of
individuals from punishment, or who become desperate, and embark in
a canoe, to seek an asylum in some of the neighbouring islands. This
is also the practice with the remaining portion of a defeated party, in

\

92 MANNERSANDCUSTOMSOF

order to escape from the pursuit of the victors. An instance of this
kind was related by Kirby, that occurred about ten years before his
arrival. While the king of Apamama was on a visit to Kuria, one of
the principal chiefs in Apamama rebelled against him, gained over
many of his subjects, and obtained full possession of the island;
numbers, however, remained faithful, and fled to Kuria to join the king,
who immediately began to collect his warriors from the two smaller
islands, and prepared himself for making a descent upon Apamama. It
was winter before he was fully ready, and owing to the irregularity
and uncertainty of the winds and weather at that season, he was
obliged to postpone his expedition for several months. He finally
embarked, with his whole army, and landed upon the north end of
Apamama, where a great number flocked to his standard. The rebels,
'iinding themselves too weak to maintain a contest, fled towards the
south end of the island. Here they prepared their canoes, and when
the king, with his army, drew near, they took their wives and children,
and put to sea. They proceeded first to Kuria, where they were mis-
taken, as they approached, for the warriors of the island returning; and
the old men, women, and children, crowded to the shore to meet them,
and welcome their relatives back; but they were suddenly surrounded
by their enemies, maddened by defeat, who destroyed them all without
mercy, and laid waste the whole island. In a few days afterwards the
Kuria ns were seen returning, when the rebels again took refuge in
flight, leaving the island to be again possessed by its owners, but with
every thing destroyed. Some of the fugitives reached other islands in
safely, others w^ere picked up by whale-ships, but the greater part were
never heard of again. The chief reached Taputeouea, or Drummond's
Island, where he is said to be still living-
Wood also relates, that about eight years prior to his being taken
on board, a fleet of canoes, containing fifteen hundred persons, arrived
at Makin, from Apia, whence they had been driven by the warriors

I

of Tarawa. At Makin they were hospitably received and entertained,
until it was discovered that a plot was concocting among them for
conquering the island, upon which the inhabitants fell upon them, and
massacred nearly the whole.

They sometimes, though but seldom, engage in other warlike under-
takings, when the warriors of one island will set out with a large fleet
to attack another. In these expeditions they rarely go to any island
to windward of them, on account of the uncertainty of the voyage when
the southeast wind blows, and also in consequence of the sea-sickness
produced by the motion of their canoes, which renders them unfit to
fight. When this happens, their adversaries, if they get information of

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. 93

the nieJItated attack, before, or just as the hostile fleet touches their
shore, assail their invaders to great advantage, while the men, stiff from
being cramped in their canoes, and still under the effects of their sick-
ness, are easily overcome. ,

It is only ihe young and vigorous who go on these expeditions,
with a few of the older warriors to direct their operation?. In their
civil wars the old men and the women join in the combat, and the
victors make no distinction of age or sex in the massacre which'
generally ensues.

The bodies of the slain are not generally eaten, but, according to
their own account, it occasionally happens that when some noted
warrior has been killed, the young men eat portions of his flesh from
hatred, and through a desire to appear fierce and terrible, Kirby
stated two cases in which he knew human flesh to have been eaten.
One was that of an old man of Kuria, who had ofiended a chief on
Apamama, and the other, of four slaves of the king, who had attempted

to escape from the island in a canoe. All these were killed, and par-
ticular parts of their bodies eaten. The act, it was thought, was
prompted by vindictiveness, and a desire to taste an unusual kind of
food. We may therefore conclude that ihey are not to be considered

as cannibals, though, according to Kirby, they seem to have no appa-
rent disgust at eating human flesh.

In Makin, where they have had no wars for a hundred years, they
are much less bloodthirsty, and during the seven years Wood was on
the island, only one man was put to death. He does not believe that
the people are cannibals, but he has frequently heard the old men
relate, that during times of scarcity their ancestors sometimes ate
human flesh.

The weapons used among them are spears, clubs, and swords,
which are made of cocoanut-wood, and after the simplest fashion.
Few of their clubs are carved, and they seem to bestow very little
labour upon them ; this, however, is appropriated to a different kind
of weapon, which they consider much more effective: these are the
shark's-teeth spears and swords, W'Ood-cuts of which have been hereto-
fore given. The natives of most of the islands show the effects of
these weapons on their bodies and limbs. The armour they use as a
protection also claims much of their attention. According to Kirby,
this armour has been onlv a short time introduced or in use on the
islands, and is not yet common in all of them. As defences, they
seldom resort to strongholds, — indeed they have none in the northern
islands ; but at Taputeouea they have palisades or pickets, about eight
or ten feet high, which surround the towns. Utiroa had a protection

94 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

of this kind, and many pickets across the town in various directions,
which would make a good defence, if the warriors were resolute. It
is not improbable, that the more warlike natives of the southern islands,
particularly those of Drummond's Island, will, ere long, push their
conquests to the northern islands, and extend their rule over them. Two
years before the arrival of the Peacock, the natives of i^pamama, Na-
nouki, and Kuria, apprehended an attack from this quarter; when the
' king collected his forces to the number of between five and six thou-
sand, who continued under arms through the whole summer; but aftei
all it proved a false alarm.

Their houses and canoes are better built than any we found else
where in the Pacific, and all their structures are large, strong, and
durable, though constructed of the most unsuitable materials: they
are so well combined as to display much elegance as well as strength.
Their dwelling-houses and mariapas have been noticed, but there is
another description of house, without a loft, in which the chiefs pass
most of their time, receiving visits, and conversing with their friends
and dependants.

On the island of Makin the houses are of larger dimensions, in con-
sequence of the abundance of timber. From Wood's description of
their mariapa, it is an enormous structure. The canoes have already
claimed a notice: those built in the northern islands are much the lar-
gest, some of them being sixty feet in length.

From the importance of their structures or buildings, the trade of a
carpenter is held in great repute: those who exercise it are either de-
pendent on the chiefs, working by their orders, or free born : the latter
are paid for their services. The time required for building a house is
about two months, and the price of such a job, two or three rolls of
their bread, called "kabuL" A canoe capable of carrying ten persons
takes five or six months to build. The payment is proportioned to the
length of time occupied in the work. The whole town is engaged in
the labour of constructing one of their mariapas. A very great pro-
portion of their time is taken up in the manufacture of their dresses ;
and while the men are en^jajred in buildinoj houses and canoes, the
women fabricate the articles of dress, sails, mats for flooring, and those
worn by the men. The mats are made of the leaves of the pandanus,
slit into strips about a quarter of an inch wide, and woven by hand :
these are of two colours, light yellow and dark brown ; the former are
made from the young leaves, and the latter from the old, which are
prepared by beating them with a mallet to render them pliable. On
the yellow mats they bestow a great deal more of their attention: the
young leaves are laid aside for two or three days after they are

)

t

It

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 95

plucked, till they are withered ; they are then roasted, by holding them
in the hand over the fire, and afterwards laid in the sun for three or
four days, to insure them being sufficiently dried. During the latter
part of the process, they are brought every evening into the house, to
protect them from the dew or rain. When the leaves are sufficiently
dry, they are left all night to bleach in the dew; they are then rolled
up in balls, and pounded with a mallet to render them soft and pliable,

and when this is accomplished, they are slit with a shell and are ready

for use- The brown and white slips are braided together, so as to
form regular figures, square or diamond-shape, which have a pretty
effect. The colours being in the material itself, are retained as long
as the fabric lasts. The mode of weaving this matting has been
described. The conical cap of the men is at times quite becoming.
They cover their shoulders with a small oblong mat, having a slit in
the middle through which the head is passed. This part o( their dress
resembles a "poncho" of small size. The women's dress, which they
call ** iriri," is quite becoming and graceful ; it is a kind of fringe, made
of cocoanut-leaves, cut into slips about a foot long, and tied by one end
to a string, which goes round the middle: the young leaflets are se-
lected for this purpose, and the rib of the leaf is removed by slitting it
down on each side. The leaves are next rolled up and beaten with a
mallet, after which they are chewed until they become quite flexible;
these narrow ribands are then knotted to a double cord. The dress is
fitted on the person, and is then clipped off at equal lengths all around :
it bias a light and elegant appearance, and yields to any motion of the
tody, yet never becomes entangled or out of order.

At Apamama, they dip the iriris in cocoanut-oil ; at Taputeouea,
they steep them in an infusion of the juice which is obtained from a
small tree, with large green leaves, called meo: of these leaves a num-
ber are pounded in a shell, and a little water poured on them, which is
then filtered through the pellicle of the cocoa-nut tree and mixed with
molasses. After being steeped in this liquid for some time, the iriri is
rolled up in a mat with some leaves of the meo and pandanus-nuts, and
roasted in a native oven. By this process it acquires a soft and flexible
appearance, and a peculiar odour, which our gentlemen thought was
like that of a mixture of tobacco and molasses^ Both of these qualities
it retains until it is worn out.

The natives are very fond of ornamenting themselves: in the lobes
of their ears they wear strings of small leaves of the mangrove, and
the pith of a large species of Scsevola, which is common in the low
islands. This pith is cut into strips and put up into a long roll; a
wreath of which surrounds the neck, and to which a white ovula-shell,

96 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

or a large whale's tooth, hangs suspended on their breast. This pith
is thought by Mr. Rich, to be the same as that called Chinese paper
and obtained from the same plant. Long strings of beads or braided
hair are worn round the body, at times a hundred fathoms in length,
which serve to fasten the mat. The hair for this purpose is taken
from the female slaves, and is braided into a string about the size
of a packthread. The beads are manufactured by the old men who
are beyond doing any other labour, and are of the size of a small
button-mould ; they are made of cocoa-nut and shell, and strung
alternately black and white, being ground down to a uniform size and
fitted together for the purpose.

The food of the natives consists principally of fish, from the whale
to the sea-slug; shell-fish of every kind are also eaten.

Whales are represented to have been much more abundant formerly,

when they at times got aground on some of the numerous shoals, and

were killed by the natives with their spears. Even now a carcass

occasionally drifts on shore, which affords an acceptable prize. Sharks

are caught by enticing them alongside the canoe, with a bait, and

enclosing them in a noose. The smaller fish arc taken in traps, like

eel-pots, made of withes: these the natives set on the bottom, and

place pieces of coral on them to keep them there.

Great numbers of fish are also taken in weirs, or enclosures of stone,

which are made in the extensive coral flats, that are left bare by every
tide: into these the fish are driven at high water, by a number of
natives, who surround the shoal; the weir is then closed, and left until
the tide falls, when the fish are easily taken in scoop-nets. Large
seines are often used in places where the bottom renders it practicable
to draw them. Flying-fish are taken in the daytime, by trailing a
hook, attached to a short line, from the stern of a canoe. At night
they are caught in scoop-nets, as they fly towards a lighted torch, held
in a part of the canoe. Crabs are also decoyed out of their holes at
night, by torchhght, and captured.

Turtles are taken in the season on the beaches ; and shell-fish, with
the sea-slug or biche de mar, are obtained on the reefs by diving.

Their vegetable food consists of cocoa-nuts and pandanus, and a
Tariety of the taro, with a small quantity of the bread-fruit. The
preparation of these engages a great deal of their attention, and that
of the pandanus-nut in particular. When prepared, it is called kabul
and karapapa. The inner or edible portions of these nuts are sliced
ofl^, and baked in an oven for several hours, till they are quite hard ;
they are then taken out, laid on a clean mat, and pounded with a
large pestle to the consistency of dough ; this is spread out upon mats

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 97

I

I

into the form of sheets, about three feet long by eighteen inches wide,
and a quarter of an inch thick; these sheets are again laid on mats in
the sun to dry, and at night are rolled up, and put away in an oven to
bake. This process is repeated for two days, by which time the
plates become as hard and unyielding as a board, and are of a reddish
brown colour. Those plates called kabul are put away in the luft of
their houses, but are every few days brought out into the sun to insure
their being kept dry. At the close of the season, they are reduced to
a powder, not unlike fine sawdust. This is put up in rolls, from eight
to ten feet long, and six to twelve inches in diameter, bound with
leaves of the pandanus, and made so smooth and round that they look
like pillars of brown stone: in this state the preparation is called
karapapa, and will keep for years. This is the principal dependence
of the natives in seasons of scarcity, and these rolls of karapapa are
used as a circulating medium, in which wages and tributes to the
chiefs are paid.

They make a kind of broth with karapapa and kamoimoi (molasses),
which the natives drink in great quantities.

Tuea is another kind of kabul, but made of a better variety of pan-
danus: this is beaten out into thin sheets, resembling dark brown paper,
or like our cloth, which is also rolled up and put away; before being
eaten, it is soaked for several hours in the milk of the cocoa-nut, and
is esteemed a dainty. The kabul is generally chewed, and softens in
the mouth, the pulp being dissolved, while the large mass of woody
fibre remains : it has a sweetish taste.

The bread-fruit is generally roasted on hot stones, but not covered
with earth, as at the other islands. After it is cooked, it is crushed
between the folds of a mat. It is the same variety that is found at
the Samoan Islands, which strengthens the opinion that part of these
natives came from that quarter.

The taro is baked hard, then grated with a shell, and mixed in a
trough with kamoimoi, until it is of the consistency of thick paste,
which is eaten with a spoon made of a human rib- They sometimes
grate this taro to a powder, and dry it in the sun until it becomes like
bread-dust. This powder is made up in short thick rolls, and covered
w^ith pandanus-Ieaves, in which state it will keep for months. They
call it kabuibui. Before being eaten, it is soaked in water, and then
baked in a small basket

Manam is another preparation, of baked taro and cocoa-nut These
materials are grated fine, mixed together, and then made into balls as
large as thirty-two pound shot It is eaten with kamoimoi; and when

vot-. V. I 13

,j

1

J

i

98 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

the whole is not consumed on the day it is made, it is baked, to pre-
serve it from spoiling.

The karaca, or toddy, is procured from the spathe of the cocoa-
nut tree, which is usually about four feet long, and two inches in

r

diameter. From this spathe the fruit is produced ; but in order to
procure their favourite toddy, it is necessary to prevent nature from
taking her course in bringing forth the fruit: they bind the spathe
up tightly with sennit; the end is then sliced off, and a cocoanut-
shell hung to the projecting part of the spathe, to catch the sap as
it exudes. One tree will yield from two to six pints of karaca.
When first obtained from the tree, it is like the young cocoanut-
milk, and quite limpid; but after it stands for a few hours, it ferments
and becomes acid. When the spathe ceases to drop, another piece is
cut off, and every time it ceases to flow, it is treated in the same way,
until the spathe is entirely gone. Another spathe is formed soon after
above this, which is suffered to grow, and when large enough is treated
in the same manner.

The karaca is either drunk fresh from the tree, or made into kamoi-
moi, (the kind of molasses before spoken of,) by boiling it down in
cocoanut-shells, set upon hot stones. It strongly resembles our molas-
ses, both in look and taste. When this is mixed with water it is called
karave, and is the usual drink at their feasts, when it is set out in large
wooden bowls, from which it is dipped by cups, made of cocoanut-
shells or of human skulls.

These islanders have no kind of intoxicating drink. The food of
Makin is similar, although the names are somewhat different : they
use kaka for karapapa ; tagara for manam. Their mode of cook-
ing differs from that of other islanders. A small round shallow hole
is made, about two feet in diameter, and six inches deep, with a
sufficient number of hard stones to line it. In this a fire is made, and
the stones placed on it: when the stones are heated, they brush away
the fire and ashes, and arrange them ; the food is placed on them,
over which mats are laid, and covered with earth; before closing the
pit, they run a stick obliquely into the heap, and when the whole is
completed, this stick is drawn out, and water is poured into the hole
to create steam. Their messes require from one to four hours to cook.
At times they bake their food by simply putting it upon the stones un-
covered.

In

They do not appear to suffer from want of food, although it is what
would be deemed of a coarse kind. During Kirby's stay, they had
abundance, though he mentioned having heard of a famine which had

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 99

occurred a few years before, when it became necessary for the natives
to have recourse to the purslane, which is not considered by them as
very unpalatable food.

These people have, from the little time occupied in cultivating their
vegetable productions, a great deal of leisure; consequently, as would
naturally be expected, amusements are sought for, and occupy a
great part of their time : their festivals and dances are even looked
upon as claiming priority to their warlike expeditions, and for these
great preparations are always made some days previously. Their
greatest festivities take place at the time of full moon, or a few
days after it, when the people of one town usually invite those of
another, both men and women, to what may be termed a dancing and
singing match. On the day appointed, the guests arrive in their
canoes, and proceed to the mariapa, w^here they occupy that portion
of it on the side whence they came; the townspeople seat themselves
opposite to them. The food which the strangers bring with them is
laid in the middle, and as much more is added to it by their hosts, all
of which is shared out by the guests among themselves. The dancing
now begins, the guests 'making the first display of their agility, and
when they have finished, the people of the town follow. A warm
rivalry is thus kept up till evening, when the dancing gives place to
singing, each taking up the measure in his turn. This is kept up until
midnight, when the townspeople retire, leaving their guests to sleep in

the mariapa. These festivities last for three days, after which the
visiters depart.

The men, during this period, clothe themselves in mats from the
waist downw^ards. Some load the waist with heavy strings of beads ;
others adorn the neck with rows of shells, and sometimes with one or
two large whale's teeth, while others again have small rows of the
latter across the back. Almost all wear a great many human teeth
on the arms and around the neck : these are taken from their slain
enemies; for, after killing a man, the first object with them is to
knock out his teeth, for the purpose of obtaining them for ornaments.
Through the lobes of their ears they pass long strips of yellow leaves,
which hang down on their shoulders. They also besmear the face
and body with cocoanut-oil, and some daub each cheek with fine
white sand, and blacken their eyebrows and beards with charcoal.
The hair is oiled and combed out with a pointed stick, and stands
out from the head, forming an ornament which they esteem as very
becoming. The women wear their usual dress and a few ornaments,
but about the decorations of their persons they are very attentive and
scrupulous.

100 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

The dances resemble the evolutions of a company of soldiers: the
two parties stand in rows, either facing each other, or back to back, or
else both face inwards; their motions are confined to the body and
arms; the legs, though not entirely at rest, seldom have much action;
at times the arms are thrown out from the body, when they give a
rapid quivering motion to the fingers, clap their hands together, and
afterwards slap them with great force against the thighs and breast,
while the body is rocked to and fro. Every movement is made in
perfect unison by the whole party, who all keep time with a mono-
tonous song. Tn their dances the great object is to make as much noise
and commotion as possible. Their full-moon feasts are the only peri-
odical ones they have*

At the marriage of a great chief there arc great rejoicings, attended
with dances and songs; the latter are composed for the occasion,
reciting the greatness of the chief, and the prowess and character of
his ancestors.

The regular monthly festival does not prevail at Makin Island.

On Taritari a great feast is held about midwinter, in honour of
Teouki, the grandfather of the present king, who is considered by them
as the most illustrious man the island has ever produced-

There are many other amusements: among them foot-ball, sailing
small canoes, swimming in the surf, and flying kites. The kites are
made of the pandanus-leaf reduced to half its thickness, which renders
it lighter than paper ; and they are prettily shaped. In swimming in
the surf, they have a small board like that used by the Sandwich
Islanders.

One of their sports differs from any we have seen, and appears to
be peculiar to themselves. It is a game in which dancing, fencing, and
singing, are combined, which produces a very animated and gay
spectacle, from the numbers engaged in it, w^hich are often from one
to two hundred of both sexes- This sport takes place in an open space,
by moonlight. Each young man chooses a partner from the other sex,
and they arrange themselves in two rows, the partners facing each
other as in our country-dances. Tw^o couples form a set, and always
remain together, but are continually changing places with the rest.
Every one is provided with a light stick of the stalk of the cocoanut-
leaf. At a given signal they begin their song, and the dancers strike
their sticks together, as if playing at single-sticks, keeping time to the
song; at stated points they change places with those next below, and
each in turn reaches the head. As these changes all go on simulta-
neously, the song and clatter of sticks are kept up without interruption,
and in excellent time. If a person misses a stroke, there is much

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 101

laughter, shouting, and joking. The clatter, noises, and singing may
be heard for a great distance around.

The marriage ceremony of these people is conducted somewhat
after our own custom. A wife is never bought, but it is generally
supposed that each party will contribute something towards the house-
hold stock. When a young man is pleased with a girl, and his
addresses meet with a favourable reception, he applies for the consent
of her father; if this be refused, it sometimes puts an end to the aflair;
but it oftentimes happens that the young couple make a runaway match,
and trust to a reconciliation afterwards, which usually is brought
about.

It would be esteemed very indelicate for a young man to ask his
future father-in-law what dowry his wife was to receive; this is never
made know^n until after the wedding, and sometimes is delayed until
the birth of the first child. If a separation take place, which frequently
happens, the w ife takes back the land and other property which she
brought with her.

A few days previous to a marriage, it is formally announced to the
relations and friends of both parties, who prepare mats, food, oil, and
many other articles, for the festival; these are sent to the dwelling of
the bride's father, where the ceremony is to take place. When the day

arrives, all repair to the house, dressed and decorated in their gala
suits. When thus assembled, the young couple are seated in the midst
on a new^ mat ; the priest presses their foreheads together, and pours
on their heads a little cocoanut-oil ; he then takes a branch of a tree,
dips it in water, and sprinkles their faces, at the same time making a
prayer for their future happiness and prosperity. Food is now placed
on the mat between them, usually a particular kind of fish, with bread-
fruit and taro, which they eat together. They are now considered as
married, and the friends and relatives throng around them to offer their
congratulations and rub noses. The feast then begins, and is continued
till evening, when a fire is lighted in the open air, and dancing takes
place. This festival is continued for several days; on the evening of
the third day, the bridegroom takes his wife home.

For ten days after the marriage, the house in which the bride lives
is screened with mats, and she does not go out of it, but remains at
home to receive her friends. When the wife is eight months enceinte
for the first time, the friends and relatives of the husband prepare pro-
visions and mats ; those of the wife, provisions also, with iriris and oil.
These are all taken to an amata, a house without a loft, of which there
are several in each town, for the convenience of such assemblies. The
two parties sit on opposite sides of the house, with their property ; two

12

102 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

men, one from each side, stand up in the middle, and proceed to
exchange the mats for iriris and the oil ; the provisions of one side for
those of the other. The exchange is made with great care, so that
each receives an equivalent. When this is finished, the parties gather
up their exchanges and retire, leaving the married couple, whose pre-
sence was deemed necessary to sanction the sale, no better off than
before. This custom is called katiro, and is often resorted to for
making exchanges, on ordinary occasions.

Children are often betrothed at an early age, sometimes as soon as
born, in which case the ceremony of marriage is not deemed neces-
sary. Polygamy, as before observed, is allowed to any extent, and
limited only by the ability of the person to support his wives. On
Makin, no marriage ceremony takes place, for every female child is
betrothed as soon as born, usually to some near relative, who takes her
to his house at whatever age he may think proper ; and those who are
not so betrothed remain all their lives unmarried, forming temporary
connexions with the young men who are similarly situated. Of the
latter there are great numbers, owing to the majority of the women
being monopolized by the wealthy and powerful, to whom this custom
aiTords every facility for obtaining wives. This state of things brings
about, as is naturally to be expected, many intrigues and squabbles.

At the birth of a child, the priest gives it a name, at the request of
the father ; but if the infant should be taken sick soon afterwards, the
first name is abandoned, and another adopted, in hopes that it may
prove a more fortunate one; for they believe that the illness may be
owing to its name. It is very common to call a child after its grand-
father.

A woman has seldom more than two, and never more than three
living children. After the birth of a third, they consider it necessary
to prevent the increase of their families, and resort to that most un-
natural means, a systematic abortion. So soon as a woman believes^
herself to be enceinte for the third or fourth time, she determines that
the offspring shall not survive, and calls in the aid of an experienced
midv^^ife to destroy it, who effects the purpose by external pressure on
the abdomen or back, and though not unattended with much pain and
difficulty to the mother, the operation rarely proves fatal. This prac-
tice is looked upon without any sort of horror or shame, being con-
sidered as a necessary and proper means to prevent their families from
becoming so iarge as to be a burden to them, and not because the
island might become over-peopled, for this latter idea does not seem
ever to have occurred to them. The practice of destroying the foetus
is universal among the unmarried females, but children are never

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. 103

^

destroyed after birth. According to Wood, this custom does not pre-
vail at Makin.

There are professed tattooers, who are held in great estimation, and
receive very high prices; this confines the art to the wealthy and
those of rank. The young men are not tattooed before the age of
twenty, and slaves never. The tattooing is mostly in short oblique lines,
about the eighth of an inch apart. These are arranged in perpendicular
rows, of which there are four or five down the back on each side of
the spine, with a similar marking in front, beginning just below the
collar-bone. The legs also are marked.

The women are tattooed in the same manner, but not so much as
the men. Owing to the lightness of the lines, and the distance between
them, they do not show very conspicuously. The colouring matter
used is charcoal, mixed with cocoanul-oil. The instrument employed
is a piece of bone, cut like a fine-toothed comb, similar to that used at
the Samoan Group. The tattooing is done at different times, to alle-
viate the pain w^hich attends the operation.

Of all their customs, the funeral ceremonies are the most remark-
able. When a man dies, his body is taken to the mariapa, washed, and
laid out on a clean mat, where it remains for eight days, and every
day at noon it is taken into the sun, washed, and oiled. During this
time the friends are engaged in wailing and singing praises of the dead,
and dancing; but they think it a great weakness to shed tears on such
occasions. After this mourning, the body is sewed up in two mats, and
sometimes buried in the house of the nearest relatives, the head being
alw^ays turned towards the east. In other cases, it is stored away in
the loft. When the flesh is nearly gone, the skull is taken off, carefully
cleaned, oiled, and put aw^ay. The skulls of their ancestors are kept by
chiefs as a kind of household deity, to which they frequently offer up
prayers and entreaties, to have a regard and to keep watchful care
over their descendants. The skulls are not unfrequently taken down,
bound around with wreaths, anointed with oil, and have food set before
them. In passing from one island to another, these skulls are always
carried along, as if members of the family, and treated with every
mark of re\'erence.

The funeral ceremonies on Makin, according to Wood, are still
more extraordinary ; but w^e have no good reason to doubt the facts,
as they seem to be somewhat allied to those above related. After the
first ceremonies of wailing, the body is washed and laid out upon a
new mat, which is spread on a large oblong plate, made of several
tortoise-shells sew^ed together. From two to six persons, according
to the size of the corpse, seat themselves opposite to one another on

i^

104 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

the floor of the house, and hold this plate, with the body of their friend,
on their knees. When tired, they are relieved by others, and in this
way the service is kept up for a space of time varying from four
months to tw^o years, according to the rank of the deceased. All
persons, whether freeborn or slaves, receive this treatment after death-
During the continuance of this lying in state, a fire is kept constantly
burning, both day and night, in the house, and its extinction would be
regarded as a most unlucky omen.* At the end of the period, the
remains are sometimes wrapped in mats, and stowed away in the loft
of the house, but more commonly they are buried in a piece of ground
set apart for the purpose. The grave is marked with three stones,
one at the head, another at the foot, and one placed horizontally
across these.

The skulls of the chiefs are preserved, and treated in the same way
as at the other islands.

From diseases the natives appear to be tolerably free. Consump-
tions, and a kind of cholera morbus, are the most fatal. There were
no cases of elephantiasis seen ; but, as has been remarked in speaking
of the islands separately, the kind of cutaneous disorder called by the
natives gune, prevails extensively ; this, at some stages of the disease,
resembles the ringworm. It begins with this appearance, in a small
circle, about an inch in diameter, covered with a scurf; the ring
gradually increases in size, and when it becomes large, a smaller one
forms within it ; as this last increases, another forms within it, and in
this way the affection continues to spread, unless arrested. Several
circles often form on the body within a short distance of each other,
the rings meet and become confluent, producing a variety of curved
lines, and concentrical circles. The whole body becomes at length
covered with this scurf, which is always attended by painful itching.
This finally passes off", and leaves the skin seamed with an infinity of
circles and wavy lines of a livid hue, and produces a most disgusting
appearance ; in this stage it sometimes continues during the remainder
of a person's life, without materially aflfecting his general health. At
other times it assumes a more virulent character, in which case large
excrescences like warts form, first on the face, or between the fingers
and toes, and then in other parts. The softer portions of the face and
body swell to double their natural size ; the person becomes unable to
walk, or to move his limbs, until death at length overtakes and releases

When the truth

Wood rea^iily answered, that "One half of Uiem have notliing"

eke

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. 105

him from his sufferings. The natives call this disease sometimes
gune-maior, or the southwest gune, from the fact that it was introduced
into their islands from that direction: and as the Peacock found it
prevailing extensively at the Depeyster Islands, it is but reasonable to
suppose that it came from that quarten It was most prevalent at
Taputeouca, the most southern of the Kingsmill Islands, and gradually
becomes less so in the northern islands ; Wood asserts that he has
never seen a single case of it at Makin.

The climate of these islands is equable, and though of high tempe-
rature, it is found to be less oppressive than in most tropical countries.
For the most part constant breezes prevail, and frequent rain falls,
which moderates the great heat, and at the same time confers fertility
on the soil. From October to April, the time of the Peacock's visit,
is the winter, and is especially distinguished by the frequency of rains.
Variable winds from the northward and westward prevail at this
season, and they have violent gales from the southwest; these, accord-
ing to Kirby, are typhoon-like. The natives plant stakes to prop up
their houses, and tie them down, to prevent them from being blown

away. These storms last for three or four days, veering gradually
round to the north. The leeward sides of the islands receive most

damage, and both land and trees are swept ayvay. Kirby states, that

the lee side of Kuria has worn aw^ay during his residence. In these

gales the trunks of large trees are thrown on the w^est side of the

island, together with large lumps of resin, similar to that found in the

soil at New Zealand, which the natives use to scent their oils with :

these trees, sometimes two feet in diameter, were thought to be of the

pine species ; many stones are found in their roots, from eight to ten

inches in diameter ; these are a fine basalt, and the natives use them

for various purposes.

From May till September the weather is fine, with clear skies, and
only occasional showers; and during this time the wind blows con-
stantly from the eastward. This is the season in which the natives
make their voyages; they never venture abroad in the winter months,
even from island to island, being well aware of the danger of so doing.

Earthquakes are occasionally experienced in these islands. Kirby
says he has felt ten or twelve sufficiently severe to shake down a
house : the natives exhibit no fear on account of them. The direction
of the oscillations seems to be from the southwest.

The population of the group, from the best data which was obtained,
is about sixty thousand souls. At Drummond's Island, where there
was the best opportunity of a personal examination, the estimates
were above ten thousand : this is considered the most populous island

VOL- V. 14

106 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

of the whole group. On Apamama, Kirby saw collected from six to
seven thousand warriors, belonging to it, Nanouki, and Kuria: the
joint population of these three islands may therefore be reckoned at
twenty-eight thousand; it would seem reasonable to estimate the
remaining twelve islands, which have been observed to be thickly
inhabited, at the same number.* This apparently would give from
four to five hundred inhabitants to the square mile; for, if only the
dry land were to be taken into the account, there would not be more
than one hundred and fifty square miles; but to this should be added
the lagoons and sea around, from which in reality these natives derive
the greatest part of their sustenance: this would increase the area to
upwards of five hundred square miles, giving one hundred and twenty
inhabitants to the square mile for support.

These islanders have had but v^ery little communication with stran-
gers; and although they have occasionally been visited for the last
forty years, but little change has been brought about by the inter-
course. There is nothing to induce the visits of vessels, for little is to
be had in the way of refreshment : neither wood nor water is pro-
curable in any quantity, and there is nothing for a profitable exchange.
Of course, therefore, only a few vessels anchor in their harbours ; of
which, as has been pointed out, they have many good ones, an advan-
tage not possessed by other low coral islands.

The articles of trade being but few and trifling, only a very small
amount of the manufactures of civilized nations have found their way
into these islands. The southern islands have been most visited, in
consequence of their lying more in the immediate neighbourhood of the
whaling'ground ; the consequence has been that they have been able to
obtain enough iron implements to have almost superseded those of native
construction. The people of the southern islands have also imbibed an
extraordinary fondness for tobacco; and these, with some diseases,
may be said to constitute their acquisitions from the whites, to whose
depraved appetites they at an early day learned to administer.

The same causes that prevent them from being the resort of vessels
also deter sailors from deserting; and, as has been seen, both Kirby
and Wood had become disgusted with ,the lives they led, and were
glad to make their escape. From Kirby's account, there were only
five more white men, and one black, on the islands. An Englishman
and an American reside on Nukunau, (Byron*s Island,) the former of
whom had become a high chief, and acquired much influence; but it

believ

i

\

* WocmJ estimates that of Makin at five thousand

THE KINGS MILL ISLANDERS. 107

with him has not operated favourably on the natives. The other four
are on Peru Island.

In the dispositions of these natives there are some peculiarities: they
are said to be subject to despondency and sullcnness, that sometinnes
causes them to commit suicide. Kirby mentioned five instances on
Kurla, of both nien and women destroying themselves, and of several
others who had attempted if, but were prevented by their friends.
To terminate their lives they always resort to hanging on a tree.
The motive to this act is generally the treatment they have received,
or offence taken at the conduct of some person, whom affection or fear
renders them unwilling to injure; the mortification and grief produced
thereby leads them at last to suicide, w^hich is considered by them as
a remedy for their evils, as well as a severe revenge upon those who
had ill-treated them.

What constitutes the highest ambition among them, is to be con-
sidered accomplished men of the world. They have a word in their
language (mauda), which expresses one thoroughly instructed in all
their arts, a good dancer, an able warrior, versed in all their know-
ledge and sports, who has mixed in life, enjoyed its highest excitements
and delights, both at home and abroad. Such a man in their estima-
tion is the most exalted in character, and is fully qualified on dying to
enter at once upon the enjoyments of Elysium.

There is a striking contrast between the Pitt Islanders and those of

the rest of the group ; and if they were originally the same people.

which there does not seem to be any reason to doubt, it shows what
a great alteration may be efTected in the physical race, in the course
of two or three generations, by the enjoyment of peace and plenty;
for while the one retains still all the savage and cruel propensities,
the other has become mild and humane, — proving that a life free from
wars, and all their harrassing and distressing tendencies, even among
savages, brings with it the practice of virtue.

On completing the survey of the Kingsmill Group, Captain Hudson
found it necessary to place his crew, and that of the tender, upon a
reduced allowance of provisions and water. He then steered away to
the northward, through the Mulgrave Islands; and on the morning
of the 3d of May, they made Pedder Island of Arrowsmith. The
vessels passed along its w^est side, and through the Fordyce Passage,
between it and Arrowsmith's Island. Daniel Island was also seen
from alofl to the eastward. These islands are all of coral formation,
with lagoons, and are inhabited. The southeast end of Arrowsmith's
Island was found to be in latitude 7° 05' N., longitude 171^ 23' 54" E.
It is twenty miles long.

108 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF

On the 5th, they made the Pescadores, which was surveyed. Its
position is in latitude 11° 23' 15" N., longitude 167° 36' 30" K The
Pescadores is of triangular shape and coral formation; it has on its
reef several islets and some sand-spits : the former are covered with a
few low bushes, but it has no cocoa-nuts or pandanus-trees, and affords
nothing but the pearl-oyster and turtles, in the season. The whole
island is about thirty-two miles in circumference. Its greatest length,
north and south, is ten miles, and the same between its east and west
point- There are two entrances in the lagoon: one about the middle
of the north side, the other on the east side. The island has no in-
habitants, and is incapable of supporting any- From the description
in Mr. Dowsett's journal, there is no doubt that this was the place
where he and the boat's crew were either treacherously murdered, or
made captives, and carried to another island; and from the nature of
the island, little doubt exists that the murderers were a transient fishing
party, from some of the adjacent islands. All the facts that are known
have been given previously.

Korsakoff was in sight for two days ; but they were prevented from
having communication with it by the boisterous state of the weather.
On the afternoon of the 7th, an endeavour was made by a canoe to
reach the ship, but without success: the sea was too rough for the
boats to live, and the surf too great to permit a landing. Although a
few persons were seen upon it, yet nothing showed that it was per-
manently inhabited- The appearance of Korsakoff was the same as
that of the Pescadores, without any vegetable productions capable of
sustaining life.

Korsakoff, though represented as one island on the charts, was found
to be two. The smaller one lies to the southward of the larger, and is
fourteen miles long by three wide. The larger island is about twenty-
six miles long, trending northeast and southwest. It has an entrance
into its lagoon on the south side.

Captain Hudson now came to the conclusion that his time would
not permit him to proceed any further to the westward ; indeed, the
time appointed in his instructions to be at the Columbia river had
already passed, and he was now distant from it upwards of four
thousand miles, and would require some sixty or seventy days, in all
probability, to reach the Northwest Coast.

This caused the abandonment of his visit to Strong's and Ascension
Islands, two points I was in hopes w^ould have been reached, not only
for the information to be derived from a visit, but I was desirous of
having a full knowledge of those islands. I also wished to break up
what was deemed a nest of rogues, and to be the means of recovering

THE KINGSMILL ISLANDERS. 100

I

^ the property plundered in the several captures made by them, if any

of it remained.

Captain Hudson, on the 8th, gave Mr. Knox orders to Purvey and
land on Korsakoff, and thence proceed to Oahu, with all despatch;
upon which the Peacock and tender parted company, for the purpose
of avoiding detention by sailing together The Peacock lost the
trades in latitude 24*^ N. On the 18th, Captain Hudson was obliged
to issue an order to put a stop to the exercise of the guns, on account
of the decayed state of their carriages. On the 19th, they passed
near the position of the doubtful island of Patrocinio, but without
seeing any land. On the 20th, they fell in with great quantities of
Janthina: this was in latitude 26'' N-, longitude 168° K On the 21st,
in latitude 28^ 54' N., longitude 177® E., the Anatifa were met with:
they continued in vast quantities as far as latitude 35^ N., and were
seen as far east as longitude 164^ W. Some of the patches were miles
in extent, trending in a southeast-by-east and northwest-by-west direc-
tion. On the map showing the currents and whaling-grounds, I have
marked the spaces occupied in the North Pacific, over which the soft
molluscs have been found. By our observations it is equal in area to
four hundred thousand square miles. The currents experienced on this
cruise will be found exhibited on the Track Map, in the small atlas, as
well as the winds.

On the 5th June, they fell in with the whale-ship Magnolia, which
supplied them with about two hundred gallons of water, and a few
potatoes. On the 13th, in latitude 24° N., they again found the
trades.

On the 14th, they made the island of Oahu, but falling under
the lee of the island, Captain Hudson despatched Lieutenant Perry
and Mr. Speiden, the purser, to order the necessary supplies for the
ship at Honolulu, to avoid any unnecessary detention there; they did
not, however, reach their destination until late in the evening of the

same day, where they found the Flying-Fish had arrived the day
previous. Our consul, Mr. Brinsmade, hearing that the Peacock
was in the offing, with his usual kindness and attention, filled a boat
wuth provisions, and went off to her; these proved a very acceptable
treat after the short allowance they had been on for the previous

sixty days.

On the morning of the IGth, the Peacock anchored in the port of
Honolulu. Captain Hudson now made every exertion to take in
provisions, and overhaul the ship; the crew were allowed liberty of
twenty-four hours, by dividing them into three parts, and one-third
permitted to go ashore at a time, while the rest attended to the duty.

K

110

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC.

The two men, Wood and Kirby, were given over to the consul of
Her Britannic Majesty.

By the 21st, they had embarked the provisions and finished the
necessary repairs, when they sailed for the Columbia river.

In the latitude of 40° N., they met with the Anatifa and Velella, the
ocean being hterally covered with them: these continued to latitude
43^ N., and between the longitude of 154"* and 157^ W, The tem-
perature of the air was 51% that of the water SS*^, The weather had
now become cold, damp, and cloudy. Until they reached the latitude
of 45^ N.y they had the wind constantly from the eastern quarter; but
after passing that parallel, it veered to the west-southwest, and so con-
tinued for several days, when it hauled to the southeast, and remained
between that point and south, until they reached soundings off the bar
of the Columbia river, on the ITth July, the day prior to the wTeck, of
which I have already spoken.

I cannot close this account of the cruise of the Peacock and Flying
Fish, without saying a few words in relation to the activity which this
cruise evinces in Captain Hudson, his officers, and crew ; this will be
shown in a strong light, by stating the simple fact, that during this
voyage the Peacock had sailed upwards of nineteen thousand miles;
was two hundred and sixty days at sea, and only twenty-two in port,
and that during the w^hole time, although they were exposed to great
vicissitudes of climate, and had been long on short allowance, they
returned to port without a single sick man on board.

KIXGSMILL IDOL,

CHAPTER IV.

CONTENTS.

DANGERS-

BAKER^S BAY — LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN SENT TO MEET MR. ELD — RAMSEY AND
GEORGE, THE PILOTS— RETURN TO ASTORIA— PURCHASE OF A BRIG— MESSRS. HALE
AND DANA GO WITH DR. APLAUGH LIN— TRADE WITH THE INDIANS-SUPERSTITIONS
OF THE INDIANS — SURVEY RESUMED— TONGUE POINT — THE VESSELS GROUND —
WAIKAIKUM — PREVALENCE OF FEVER AND AGUE — PILLAR ROCK-BOAT CAPSIZED
— KATAL.\MET POINT-LIEUTENANT EMMONS ORDERED TO SAN FRANCISCO-FIRE
ON MOUNT COFFIN — PORPOISE GROUNDS AGAIN- WARRIOR S POINT— VANCOUVER —

i

SIR GEORGE SIMPSON— DIVIDENDS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY— FORMAL DINNER
-CHANGED APPEARANCE OF VANCOUVER — OBSERVATIONS AT VANCOUVER — ARRI-
VAL OF MR. ELDS PARTY— HIS EXPEDITION — HIS DEPARTURE FROM NISaUALLY —
SaUAW CHIEF — PORTAGE TO THE SACHAL — LAKES — EMBARKATION AND DESCENT
OF THE SACHAL — COUNTRY ON THE CHICKEELES — CARVED PLANKS — MR. ELD
ENTERS GRAYS HARBOUR— THE INDIANS REFUSE HIM AID— DIFFICULTIES ATTEND-

ING THE SURVEY

ELDS PARTY IS RELIEVED BY LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN —
COMPLETED— CHARACTER OF GRAY'S HARBOUR — INDIANS

OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD — DEPARTURE FROM GRAYS HARBOUR — PASSAGE ALONG
THE COAST— ARRIVAL OF MR. ELD AT ASTORIA — ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDI-
TION TO CALIFORNIA— DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER— POSTS OF THE HUDSON BAY
COMPANY— TRADE OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY— CLIMATE OF OREGON— WINDS-
FEVER AND AGUE — INDIAN POPULATION -PROGRESS DOWN THE RIVER — LETTERS
PROM THE UNITED STATES — DEEP WATER — SURVEY OF THE COWLITZ — PUGET
ISLAND — PILLAR ROCK — CHANNEL AT TONGUE POINT— RETURN TO ASTORIA— POR-
POISE ANCHORS AT ASTORIA-PRIMEVAL FOREST— PREPARATIONS FOR PASSING THE
BAR— DISPOSITION MADE OF THE PEACOCKS LAUNCH— BAR PASSED— SURVEYS COM-
PLETED—ORNAMENTS, NORTHWEST COAST-WE SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO— LETTER
OF THANKS TO DR. M'LAUGHLIN — VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO— ARRIVAL THERE-
LAUNCH DESPATCHED TO MEET LIEUTENANT EMMONS.

(HI)

9

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CHAPTER IV.

COLUMBIA RIVER. $

}

1841.

The Vincennes having sailed, I at once set about preparing for the
survey of the river. I found that, agreeably to my first instructions,
Captain Hudson had lost no time in despatching the parties for the
interior, but the orders I had sent by Mr. Waldron, arrested their pro-
gress- I issued these orders because I anticipated that it w^ould be
necessary to make some change in the route they were to pursue ; and
in the mean time they v^^ould have more opportunity to prepare them-
selves for the journey.

Finding that Mr. Dana had not set out for the interior, I now saw
and regretted the necessity of countermanding the orders for the party
that was destined for the Rocky Mountains.

The boats of the Peacock were ordered to be fully manned and
fitted out with all the requisites for surveying duties, and officers
attached to each.

On the morning of the 9th, we began the survey. Some time had
been before spent in taking a few angles and soundings, but with so

little success, that I rejected the whole. The weather proved unfa-
vourable for any of our operations, except that of putting up signals.
We encamped at night on the small sandy island in the centre of the
bay, where we were very uncomfortable, for the sand flew about and
covered every thing. In the morning we had a thick fog, when I
determined to go to Baker's Bay, where we could obtain water; for
that of the Columbia is not fresh as low down as this point.

We found the tide exceedingly strong, and having some apprehen-
sions that the boats might lose their way, I thought it better for us
to make for the Chinook shore, and follow it until we reached the

VOL. V. ^^ 15 (113)

114

COLUMBIA RIVER.

cape. It may seem strange that this precaution should be taken, but
it is necessary at all times, even in clear weather; for the tide is
frequently so strong, that it cannot be stemmed by oars; and too
much caution cannot be observed in passing across the bay» As
little frequented as it is, many accidents have occurred to boats and
canoes, by their being sw^ept by the tide into the breakers on the bar,
where all hands have perished. The Indians are very cautious, and
it is only at certain times of the tide that they will attempt to make
the passage.

We reached Baker's Bay in two hours, and formed our encamp-
ment; and here we determined to remain until the weather should
become clear, and allow us to proceed with our duties.

As no news Iiad been received from Passed Midshipman Eld's
party, whom it will be recollected I had despatched from Nisqually
to Gray's Harbour, by the Chickeeles, and as the time for which he
had provisions had expired, I became apprehensive lest some accident
might have detained him. I therefore despatched Lieutenant De
Haven and Acting-Master Baldwin, with a few Indians, along the
coast to Gray's Harbour, which is about forty miles distant, to convey
a supply of provisions for that party, and to bring intelligence of them.
This duty was executed by these gentlemen with promptness, and they
reported that the party were struggling with difficulties of no ordinary
character, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.

1

BAMSEr,

GEORGE

IT

The weather continued rainy and cold; but this did not seem to
trouble our native pilots, Ramsey and his brother George. While we
were preparing our huts, these men were seen upon the bank, delibe-
rately stripping off their clothes, which they carefully folded up, and

1

placed upon the ground for pillows; they then lay down, and covering

COLUMBIA RIVER. 115

themselves with a blanlvct, slept as sound as if on beds of down. I
happened to see them arising in the morning, and they appeared re-
freshed and perfectly content, although it had rained hard all night.

These men were exceedingly fond of rum, the hope of obtaining
which, when the daily ration was served out, w\as the great induce-
ment that led them to accompany our parties.

These two were good specimens of the Flathead Indians, and I was
therefore pleased at having an opportunity of sketching them with the
camera lucida, of which sketches the cuts on the opposite page are

copies.

Before I reached Astoria, Captain Varney, of the brig Thomas II.
Perkins, had proposed to sell his vessel to the government, provided he
could arrange his affairs with Dr. M'Laughlin. I now learned that
Dr. MXaughlin had arrived at Astoria, for which place I set out in
the afternoon, in company with Captain Hudson. We embarked in the
tender, but after proceeding some distance, we found it impossible to
reach Astoria. We therefore returned to Bakers Bay, which we had

some difficulty in reaching.

The next day we succeeded in reaching Astoria, and found that the
arrangements for the purchase of the brig could be effected, and I
therefore bought her for the United Stales for nine thousand dollars,
after having her thoroughly examined by the carpenters of the squadron.
On taking possession of this brig, I changed her name to that of " the
Oregon."

This acquisition released me from much anxiety, by providing
accommodations for the crew of the Peacock, and at the same lime
aflbrding a suitable vessel to continue the operations of the squadron.
Captain Hudson took charge of the Oregon, and the alterations neces-
sary to adapt her for this service were at once commenced. After
making these arrangements, Dr. JVPLauglilin departed for Vancouver.

He gave a passage to Messrs. Hale and Dana, Messrs. Peale and Rich
having previously gone up the river. These gentlemen had already
visited the country around the mouth of the Columbia, every opportu-
nity having been afforded them by Captain Hudson. Several of the
officers visited the mountain ranges, but did not succeed in ascending
the highest peaks.

During the occupation of Astoria by the Expedition, the place became
quite civilized-looking, in comparison to what it w^as on my first arrival,
and a mart for all the commodities of the country. Besides our own
men, there w^ere many Indians to be seen lounging and moving about,
seeking employment, or with some small articles to sell.

Short excursions were made by many of us in the vicinity, and one

116 COLUMBIA RIVER.

of these was to visit the primeval forest of pines in the rear of Astoria, a
sio-ht well worth seein^^. Mr. Dravton took a camera lucida drawin^:^ of
one of the largest trees, which the opposite plate is engraved from. It
conveys a good idea of the thick growth of the trees, and is quite cha-
racteristic of this forest. The soil on which this timber grows is rich
and fertile, but the obstacles to the agriculturist are almost insuperable.
The largest tree of the sketch was thirty-nine feet six inches in circum-
ference, eight feet above the ground, and had a bark eleven inches thick.
The height could not be ascertained, but it was thought to be upwards
of two hundred and fifty feet, and the tree was perfectly straight.

It was the season of the fishery when the Peacock was wrecked, and
the Kilamukes, Clatsops, and Chinooks, were collected in the neighbour-
hood. Many of these came with their families, and took up their abode
near Astoria; for it costs them little trouble to move all their worldly
goods. They generally had for sale salmon, venison, sturgeon, moc-
casins, and mats.

When the crew first landed, eight or ten salmon might be bought for
a cotton shirt, or its value in red or green baize; but the Indians soon
found that higher prices might be obtained for the asking, and before
our departure from the Columbia river, the price w^as enhanced
one-half.

The vicious propensities of the Indians were seen here, as they appear
around all the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, or where strangers
are encannped: gambling is the vice to w^hich they are most prone.
Both sexes are equally filthy, and I am inclined to believe will continue
so; for their habits are inveterate, and from all the accounts I could
gather from different sources, there is reason to believe that they have
not improved or been benefited by their constant intercourse with the
whites, except in a very few cases. It is indeed probable that the
whole race will be extinguished ere long, from the natural effects of
their mode of life, even if no pestilential disease should come among
them to sweep them off in a single season.

I saw more of their gambling here, and the lengths to which they
carry it, than in any other place, in consequence of having occasion
to come oftener in contact with them. The game most practised was
played by one of them concealing two small sticks in the hand so
adroitly as to elude scrutiny, while the others guessed which hand
contained them. Two parties play at this, sitting upon different sides
of a large board ; and whilst the concealment of the stick is going on,
they keep up a kind of chaunt and beating with the sticks, to produce
confusion and noise, in order to distract the attention of the players.

The air they sing i

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COLUMBIA RIVER.

117

This game seems to amuse them, not only for hours but for whole
nights, and the great cause of excitement lies in the stakes. Ten is
game, and the party lose or win two at each guess.

They have another sport, which seemed to be the favourite with the
Indians around Vancouver: this is played with a number of disks of
bone or ivory, of the size of a quarter of a dollar, one of which differs
from the rest. These are concealed in tow or fibrous hemp, and the
guessing takes place in the same way. With these disks the players
make a great noise by shaking them in their hands. There is great
attention required In those who venture to play the game; and such
appears to be its fascination, that I have seen them deprive themselves
of one garment or article after another, until they were entirely desti-
tute; and it is even said they often stake the freedom, not only of them-
selves, but of their children.

At Astoria we saw one day, when there was quite a crowd of In-
dians at the encampment, several squawks, all dressed in their best
attire. These were all more than usually attentive to their personal
appearance. The principal among them was a widow, whose time
of mourning for the death of her husband had just expired. Her
object w^as to notify her friends that she was ready to receive the
addresses of any one who was in want of a wife. To give such
notification was, as I found on inquiry, a common custom among the
Chinooks.

The widow was of masculine make, and what we would call a
buxom dame. She was attended by seven others, of small stature in

comparison, who were her maids, and all evidently accompanied her
to do honour to the occasion. Every half hour they would arrange
themselves in a row, and the widow at their head, affecting a modest
downcast look, would commence a chaunt, informing the bystanders
that her period of mourning was out, that she had forgotten her
deceased husband, given her grief to the wnnds, and was now ready
to espouse another. This chaunt was accompanied by a small move-
ment of the feet and body, which, with the guttural song and conse-
quent excitement of such an exhibition, caused the fair ones to wax so

118 COLUMBIA RIVER.

warm that the perspiration rolled down their painted cheeks ; this,

with the crimson flush, all tended to add brilliancy to their dark eyes,

as they were now and then cast around upon the multitude of Indians, ,

who seemed all admiration. I did not ascertain whether the fair one {

succeeded in winning a second husband, but I am satisfied that her

exertions were such as ought to have obtained her one.

The Chinook and Kilamuke tribes entertain, as I was informed, the
idea of a future state, in their hunting-grounds, which, in their lan-
guage, they call Tamath. The road to them is supposed to be diffi-
cult, and none but those who are of good character can go there, by
the road which is called 0-tu-i-huti, a term by which they designate the
Via Lactea. They have a strong belief that all their departed relatives
and friends have a guard over 'them, and prevent evil from approach-
ing them. Each Indian has his tamanuus, or spirit, which is selected
by him at a very early age, and is generally the first object they see
in going out to the woods, that has animal life. Others create from
their imagination one that has never met mortal eyes. The choice of
a spirit, however insignificant it may appear, has a great influence on
their after-life; for, by its supposed commands, they are directed to
good or evil, as they conceive that a nonconformity to its wishes
would involve them in a multitude of evils, for they suppose it is able
to destroy health, or preserve it, or inflict miseries without end.

They at times, and particularly when in the water, pretend to hold
converse with it, and talk to themselves in a low, monotonous tone of
voice*

Ikaui is the name of their most powerful god: to him they ascribe
the creation of all things. A mountain is called after him, from its
being supposed that he was there turned into stone, and they point
out the principal rock, which rises in a pyramidal shape, as his
statue.

They believe that their departed friends and relatives have a know-
ledge of what is going on among the living; and they, in consequence;
will not eat in sight of the dead, nor laugh, for fear their mouths will
be turned askew. With the dead, they bury, as in other parts of
Oregon, their guns, knives, pots, and kettles ; and I was informed that
these articles would not be stolen when thus deposited. I presume,
however, that such is not the fact, for I observed that these thin^^s had

always been previously rendered useless, by either being burnt, or
having holes punched through them, in order to take away the temp-
tation to theft. Formerly, slaves were not unfrequently killed at a
chief's funeral, in order to bury them with their masters. They speak
of the dead walking at night, when they are supposed to awake, and

COLUMBIA RIVER HQ

get up to search for food. They have many superstitions, that have
been already noticed, of which that relating to the salmon is the most
singular, and the most strictly adhered to.

The god who made the Columbia river, and all the fish in it, they
call Italupus. He taught iheir ancestors how to procure fire, make
nets, and catch fish. The first salmon caught are all tabooed, and

they dare not sell them ; they must all be cut up and cooked the day
they are caught. A dog must never be permitted to eat the heart of
a salmon; and in order to prevent this, they cut the heart of the fish
out before tijey sell it.

Italupus is supposed to nourish the salmon, and cause them to be
abundant during the whole summer, that they may lay up their store
of it for the winter.

Having completed all the arrangements, and the weather becoming
fine, on the^l6th we resumed our duties in the survey, which was now
carried on with spirit. The stations being established, and the trian-
gulation completed, the tender, w^ith two boats, was left to sound out
the bay, while the remaining part of the force was moved up the river,
to continue the surveys, in company with the Porpoise and Oregon ;
for T now found it necessary that both vessels should proceed up to
Vancouver. This was not only to insure a more thorough outfit for
the Oregon, but it also served to forward the surveying duties, and to
afford the officers and men such quarters at night as would protect
them from the sickly season, that was approaching, and of w^hich we
had received such unfavourable accounts. The plan adopted for the
survey of this river will be given in the Hydrographical Memoir.

On the 1 8th of August, I left Astoria, with the Porpoise and
Oregon, to continue the survey. We reached Tongue Point, where
we anchored, previously to crossing thence to the opposite side of
the river, through the crooked channel w^hich was then believed to
be the only passage by which a vessel of any class could ascend the
stream.*

On the 19th, the vessels attempted to pass through this channel,
but on entering it they both took the ground. The tide was at its full

height and soon began to fall, when the Porpoise began to keel over,

until she fell on her beam-ends. We were in hopes that the night tide
w^ould be sufficient to float her off*, but we found its rise less by nearly
a foot than that of the day; it therefore became necessary to make
extraordinary exertions to prepare for the next day's tide by buoying

* A channel which we afterwards discovered, leads directly upwards from Ton^e Point,
and affords cv^ry desirable iacility for the navigation of the Columbia river.

120 COLUMBIARIVER,

her up with casks, which, fortunately, we had at hand, on board the
Oregon. It now became necessary to float her off, in order to avoid
a second failure. We therefore had recourse to passing her chain
cable under her bottom, to which a line of casks was lashed on the
weather side, at the same time the launch was suspended as a weight
from her masthead to preserve her in the same position. The hawsers
that had been landed at Astoria by our store-vessels were sent for and
attached to the brig's anchors, and so placed as to haul her at once
into the deepest water and through the narrow pass- When all was
prepared, a strong wind arose from the seaward, and caused a swell
which broke adrift some of the casks, leaving sufficient, however, to
float her before high water.

I was much relieved when I saw her again float, for I had felt
not a little anxious lest in the drifting sands of the river she might '
have formed a bed, which would have placed it out of our power to
get her off before the next spring tides, and would have compelled
us to discharge all her guns, &c- Although this would have been
attended with a great deal of trouble, it would have been of little
consequence compared with the loss of time, which we could ill afford
to spare.

After getting her off, we ran up the river a few miles, and anchored
just below the Pillar Rock, and opposite to Waikaikum. Waikaikum
belongs to a chief named Skamakewea, and is a large lodge, picketed
around with planks.

Mr. Hale passed two days there, and obtained much interesting
information from him relative to his tribe. This chief formerly had a
large tribe under him, but since the year 1830 the fever has destroyed
them nearly all. The portion of this country more immediately affected

by this scourge, extends along the banks of the river from the ocean to
the Cascades ; but that part of it which is within the influence of the
ocean tides, is the least subject to its ravages. When an Indian con-
tracts this disease, he seldom recovers, for the treatment he goes
through is sufficient to kill a person in good health.

Pillar Rock is called by the Indians Taluaptea, after the name of a
chief, who in bygone days lived at the falls of the Columbia, and who,
having incurred the displeasure of their spirit, called Talapos, was
turned into a rock, and placed where he would be washed by the
waters of the great river. The rock is twenty-five feet high, and only
ten feet square at its top : it is composed of conglomerate or pudding-
stone, and is fast crumbling to pieces. I found great difficulty in

ascending \L

The next morning, in proceeding up the river to carry on the

COLUMBIA RIVER 121

survey, one of the small boats of the Porpoise, that we had in tow,
was, through the negligence of her crew, capsized. Every thing in
her except her oars was lost, and in addition to this the accident
caused us much detention.

In the afternoon wx reached Katalamet Point, and anchored at the
low^er end of Puget Island, where we passed the next day (Sunday).
On Monday w^e again resumed our surveying duties, and reached Oak
Point, where the river takes a turn to the southward and eastw^ard.
On the 24th, Lieutenant Emmons joined me, and received his instruc-
tions to pass through the country to the south, and join the ship at
San Francisco. His instructions will be found in Appendix IV. Just
before reaching Walker's Island we ran aground, by the pilot mis-
taking his marks, but were soon relieved- In the evening of the next

Mount

This

mount afforded a favourable point for astronomical observations, being
seven hundred and ten feet high, and quite isolated. The canoes used
by the Indians as coffins are seen upon it in every direction, in all
stages of decay. They are supported betw^een trees, at the height of
four or five feet above the ground, and about them are hung the
utensils that had belonged to the deceased, or that had been offered as
tokens of respect.

I remained the whole day on the top of this mount, and obtained a
full set of observations; the w^eather being remarkably clear and beau-
tiful. Here my boat's crew carelessly omitted to extinguish the fire
they had used for cooking our dinner, and as we were puUing off to
the brig, I regretted to see that the fire hnd spread, and w^as envelop-
ing the whole area of the mount; but there was no help for it. The
fire continued to rage throughout the night, until all was burnt. I
took the earliest opportunity of explaining to the Indians who were
in the neighbourhood, that the fire w^as accidental; and, after receiving
a few small presents, they appeared satisfied that it was so. But a
few years earlier, the consequence of such carelessness would have
been a hostile attack, that might have involved us in difficulty of no
ordinary kind. We had a minor punishment to undergo, for the smoke
was so great that it enveloped all the signals towards the mouth of
the riverj and made it necessary for me to anchor within sight of
Mount Coffin till the next morni: _

Before reaching the mouth of the Willamette, better known here as
the Wapautoo Branch, a long flat extends across the river, where we
w^ere again unfortunately detained a few hours, by getting aground.
Warrior's Point, the locality where Mr. Wyeth proposed to erect his
great city of the west, w as passed ; and on the 28th, at sunset, we

vou V. ^ 16

a

122 COLUMBIA RIVER.

anchored off Vancouver. Here we found that Sir George Simpson
had arrived over-land froQi Canada, on a tour of inspection, and on his
way to visit the Russian settlement at Sitka. The next morning we
had a visit from him, accompanied by Dr. McLaughlin, Mr. Douglass^
Mr. Rowan, and Mr. Von Freeman, of the Russian Company-
Sir George Simpson left England the preceding month of March,
and was to return thither by way of Kamtschatka : a journey which
he hoped to perform in less than two years. He had seen much
service while acting as an officer of the Hudson Bay Company, from
which he has retired, and in which he now holds no share. Since his
retirement, he is employed by the stockholders of the Company, as the
inspector of all the departments, and to report upon the state of the
trading posts; this leaves him free to act without prejudice.

The mode of apportioning the profits of the Company is as follows:
after a certain per centage is paid to the stockholders who own the
capital, the surplus is divided among the active partners, including
the chief factor, traders, &c. : who are thus all interested in the profits
arising from their own exertions. In order tliat Sir George Simpson
may be impartial in adjusting and reporting on the affairs, he receives
a salary of tw^o thousands pounds a year. Sir George has been
lately knighted, for projecting and superintending the outfits of the
voyage of his nephew, who completed the discoveries in the north,
and the history of w^hose melancholy end has become so well known
to all interested in Arctic discoveries.

Captain Hudson, the officers, and myself, were invited to partake of
a formal dinner at Vancouver: on this occasion, all the functionaries
of the Company were present^ and each individual seemed to have his
place assigned him. It reminded me of the description of a feast of
feudal times, for there were many " below the salt."

Like all great dinners, it was stiff and formal. Sir George Simpson
occupied the head of the table, and there were none but men present.
Their wives seem to be little thought of, but for what reason I could
not imagine, as many of them were highly worthy of notice. Their
frequent exertions in protecting the settlements and their husbands,
show a devotion to them and their interests, that is highly commenda-
ble; and vi^hy they should not be treated as their equals, I am at a loss
to conceive. They will bear an advantageous comparison with any
others who have had so few opportunities. Those whom I saw ex-
hibited both propriety of behaviour and modesty of deportment. It
may perhaps be, that their seclusion from mixed society is their own
choice ; but such a regulation cannot but tend to prevent improvement,
and retard advancement in civilization.

COLUMBIA RIVER. 123

The Columbia river was now very difterent in appearance from
what it had been in the month of June. The stream was confined
within its narrowest limits, and was nineteen feet below high-water

mark.

The Indians were now encamped on the strands, over which the
volume of water had rushed, in its swollen state, with irresistible
force. Vancouver exhibited the aspect of an extensive farming csia-
bh'shment, with its well-stored granaries, stacks of grain, &c. All
showed that the crops had been plentiful, and gave ample proof of the
industry and success of agi'iculture.

Soon after the wreck of the Peacock, Captain Hudson, hearing that
Dr. McLaughlin was in want of hands to aid him in the harvest,
despatched the Kanakas belonging to the Peacock up to Vancouver, to
assist in gathering it. It afforded some little pleasure to contribute
this aid, and thus in some small degree to repay the attentions and
kindness of the Company's officers.

While at Vancouver, my time was taken up by the astronomic and
magnetic observations. The former gave its position in longitude
122^ 39' 34-6" W., and latitude 45° 36' 53" N.

Having understood, from the gentlemen at Vancouver, that both
Mr. David Douglas and Captain Belcher had found some discrepan-
cies in their magnetic observations, which were quite unaccountable ;
and as they had experimented within the fort, I determined to make
mine in my tent, on the banks of the river, where no apparent local
attraction existed. There were, notwithstanding, some irregularities
which I could not account for-

While I was thus engaged, Captain Hudson carried on the repairs
of the Oregon with great rapidity. The articles necessary for this
purpose which we ourselves were Jlot able to supply, were cheerfully
furnished us, at reasonable prices, from the stores and workshops of
the Company. Indeed, nothing could exceed the kind attentions that
were lavished upon us; and the moment we expressed a desire, it
w^as immediately complied with.

On the 1st of September, Passed Midshipmen Eld and Colvocoressis,
with Mr. Brackenridge and party, arrived. Orders were immediately
given for them to join Lieutenant Emmons's party, on the Willamette ;
and they were finally despatched on the tour through to California-
It will be remembered that Passed Midslupmen Eld and Colvocores-
sis were ordered to make a journey through the Chickeeles country, to
Gray's Harbour, just as the ship was getting under way from Nisqually,
and that circumstances rendered their departure more hurried than it
was desirable it should be. But through the kindness of Mr. Anderson

124 COLUMBI A RI YER

and Captains M'Niel and Scarborough, the party was not left in want
of any thing very material.

The party under command of Mr. Eld, consisted of Passed Mid-
hipman Colvocoressis, Mr. Brackenndge, Sergeant Stearns, privates
Rodgers and Dinsman, John Brooks (seaman), Thomas Ford and
Henry Waltham (ordinary seamen), with a half-breed boy, named Joe,
who was to act as their interpreter.

They left Nisqually on the I9th of July, and proceeded towards one
of the southwest arms of Puget Sound (of which we had but a few
days before finished the survey) in tw^o canoes, that had been purchased.
They w^ere sorry craft, but better could not be procured, and Mr. Eld
was not disposed to delay on account of imaginary difficulties. His
instructions will be found in Appendix XIV., Vol. IV.

I had told him he might be absent for forty days on his own resources,
as I calculated he would, by the assistance of the Indians, be able to
obtain both fish and game. I also enjoined upon him great attention to
economy in the use of his provisions.

On the same evening, he arrived within a short distance of the
portage; and the next morning Mr. Colvocoressis went, with the
sergeant and boy, to an old squaw chief, who had promised, at Nis-
qually, to be their guide to the Sachal river, and to furnish horses and

men to cross the portage. They returned at an early hour, without
either horses or Indians, but with a promise that they were to be
furnished the next day. The next morning they found that the chief
had arrived, with five horses and a number of Indians, and was ready
to transport the baggage. Some time, however, elapsed before an
arrangement could be made for the large canoe, w^hich was thought to
be too heavy to transport; but this was finally settled by the same
personage offering another in lieu of it, which, though of smaller dimen-
sions, was accepted. Ten Indians were furnished to transport it and
the rest of the articles, and they were soon in a condition to move. This
despatch was principally owing to the directions and management of
the squaw chief, who seemed to exercise more authority than any that
had been met with; indeed, her whole character and conduct placed
her much above those around her. Her horses were remarkably fine
animals; her dress was neat, and her whole establishment bore the
indications of Indian opulence. Although her husband was present, he
seemed under such good discipline, as to warrant the belief that the
wife was the ruling power, or, to express it in more homely language,
" wore the breeches."

r

The portage was easily accomplished : it passes through a forest of
lofty spruce and maple trees, with an undergrowth of common hazel

COLUMBIA RI VEIL 125

and spiraea ; its length was four miles. The soil was composed of a
shallow, black, sandy, vegetable earth.

On their route they passed three small prairies, one of which was
about ten acres in extent, and lay on the northwest side of a lake: the
lake, called Sachal by the Indians, was examined, and found to be one
and a half miles in length, and three-fourths of a mile in breadth. It is
surrounded on all sides by willow and alders ; the soil about it was
a light brown sandy loam ; the forest extends down to the water, which
is of a dark brown colour, as if tinged with vegetable matter; this,
however, was not the case, for in taking the water up in a glass, it was
found pure and crystal-like.

A line of soundings was taken across the lake, by which five and a
quarter fathoms was found to be the greatest depth. It was said to
abound in fish, but they did not succeed in taking any. In the lake
were quantities of yellow^ lilies (Nuphar lutea), pond-weed (Potamoge-
ton) of two species, and a water-lily (NymphKa.)

Mr. Eld w^as told that there was another lake to the northeast, and
ict out with Mr. Colvocoressis, to visit it. The supposed lake was
reached after a walk of five miles over the same kind of country, and
proved to be only a pond, about two hundred yards in diameter, quite
shallow, and covered, like the former, with water-lilies.

After their return they broke up the encampment, and embarking in

their canoes on Lake Sachal, passed to its southern end, where they
entered the river of the same name. This appeared at first almost
impassable, for it was for four miles almost choked up with Spar-
ganiums, Nuphars, &c., so that it was difficult to pass even with the
small canoe. Its breadth was from twenty to sixty feet, and it was
from three to twelve feet deep. The turns w^ere sometimes so short,
that the large canoe would be in contact with the thickets on the banks
at both ends, and it required much force to drag her along, by pulling
by the branches, and caused great labour in cutting their way. They
also unfortunately lost their hatchet, which afterwards proved a serious

mishap.

They were obliged to continue their course down the river until
nine o'clock at night, before they could find any place to encamp, on
account of the bog and jungle. At that hour they came to a small
green spot, occupied by a party of Indians. Here Mr. Eld obtained
some ahitudes of the north star for latitude ; and the next day, being
compelled to make a portage of two miles to avoid an impassable part
of the river, he employed himself, during the time it was making, in
getting a full set of equal altitudes. By 6 p. m. they had carried every
thing across and embarked ; but the river was full of sand-bars, shallow

L2

126 COLUMBIA RIVER.

rapids, and sunken snags, which often compelled them to drag the
canoe over by main force. The land on both sides of the river is flat,
marshy, and well wooded. Among the trees were niany ash. They

T *

stopped for the night at an Indian carnp. Mr, Eld endeavoured to
induce the old chief to accompany him down the river ; but he declined,
assigning as a reason that he was afraid of the Chinooks. He boasted
that he was the chief of the Sachal tribe ; but as the party had met with
but two or three other Indians during the route, they were at a loss to
know where the tribe resided.

On the 24th, they again embarked on the river, and had another
fatiguing day; but being now provided with poles, they succeeded
better in navigating the canoe. When they had proceeded some
distance, they were overtaken by the squaw chief and her husband,
who passed them quickly in a light canoe. During the day they saw
several deserted native huts, situated on small prairies, extending back
some distance from the river, and in the rear, on either side, were seen
hills rising to the height of about fifteen hundred feet. No kind of rock
had been observed on their route, except a single block of granite,
which was passed on one of the prairies near Lake Sachal. The
w^eather, for the few last days, had been fine and clear.

On the 25th, they set out at an early hour, and in passing one of the
rapids in the large canoe, it came in contact with a snag, which tore
off part of the gunwale, and half filled the canoe with water. At ten
o'clock they reached the place where the Sachal enters the Chickeeles,
which is there one hundred and fifty feet wide, and runs with a rapid
current. The bottom was gravelly, and the surface smooth, except
where a sand and gravel bar stretched across the river, in a direction
about east-northeast. One lonely Indian was met at the junction, from
whom they bought some pieces of dried elk*

The soil on both sides of the river, for about one-third of a mile
back, was a deep, rich, alluvial loam, overgrown with poplar, willow,
dogwood, and alder, with an undergrowth of raspberry. On the 26th,
the old chief joined the party, and they all proceeded down the river
together, to the point where the Kluckullum enters the Chickeeles,
where they halted. No inducement could prevail upon the chief to
serve as a guide up the Sachap, another branch of the Chickeeles.

In the afternoon they encamped at the mouth of the Sachap, and
Mr. Eld made preparations to set out early the next morning, to ex-
plore it, having obtained a guide from among the Indians they met with
at a fishing station in the vicinity. No fish, however, were to be pro-
ctired, but on their descent they came upon several large flocks of teal,
out of which Mr. Brackenridsre killed four.

C O L U M B I A R I V E R. 127

At an early honr on the 27th, Mr. Eld, Sergeant Stearns, and two
men. set out on their jaunt up the Sachap, in a small canoe. About
eight miles from the camp they came to the place where the river
forks, forming the Sachap and Tarqucorau; here they took horses,
and proceeded eight miles farther, in a northeasterly direction, and
encamped in a small prairie. Neither of the two rivers is penetrable
by a canoe, so overgrown and choked up are they with bushes and
bogs. Just at sunset they passed a party of Suquamish Indians, who
were very anxious that Mr. Eld should encamp with them ; but this
he declined doing, and preferred passing some distance beyond.

On the morning of the 28th, they again started at an early hour,
and passed through a very rough and apparently little frequented
country. The guide had much difficulty in finding his way through
a forest which the fire had partly consumed. At 9^ 30"^ they recrossed
the Sachap, which w^as there a small brook, about twenty feet wide,
coming from a northwest direction. It was but knee-deep, and clogged
with large logs and trees. Shortly after passing this stream, the
country grew so rough that it was impossible to proceed farther with
the horses, and the guide told Mr. Eld that he would be obliged to
leave them. As no notice of this difficulty in the route had been pre-
viously given, it was natural for Mr. Eld to suspect that his guide
was forming some scheme to deceive him, and go off with his pro-
perty. Deeming it proper to come to a right understanding, and to

make the guide aware that he was on the look-out to punish any
attempt at fraud, he led the chief aside, and told him that he intended
to hold him responsible in case of the loss of any of his things, or of
his being deceived. He then ordered him to leave one of his slaves
in charge of the horses and effects until their return. This was
accordingly done, and they proceeded on foot for Lake Nanvitz,
which they reached by one o'clock. This proved to be a fine sheet of
w^ater, a mile and a half long, by three-fourths of a mile wide, sur-
rounded by a thick forest of pines. Here they found an Indian family
hunting, who had just killed an elk, of which Mr. Eld procured the
greater part, for a small quantity of powder and shot These were
also of the Suquamish tribe. The old man of this party spoke of
another lake, not far distant, to which he took Mr. Eld. This was no
more than about half the size of the former, and the name the Indians
gave it was Kamalatiz: it had much the same character as the larger
one. There was no opportunity of getting the depth of these two
lakes, for want of a canoe. Neither of them has an outlet. From the

west of these lakes.

pond

128

COLUMBIA RIVER.

suring them.

Having accomplished the object he had in view, Mr. Eld turned
bac]{, and soon reached the place vi^here they had left the horses and
articles, which they found all safe, under the charge of the slave, who,
from appearances, had not moved from his position during the time of
their absence, and was much relieved at their return.

The next day they returned to their party on the Chickeeles,
passing on their route some of the gigantic pine trees, so often to be
met with in this territory. Some of these had been burnt, and had
in consequence fallen; Mr. Eld thus had an opportunity of mea-

One, that was not selected as the largest, for there
were many of equal if not greater length and diameter, was mea-
sured, and the part that lay in one piece w^as found to be two hundred
feet long; another piece of the same tree was twenty-five feet long,
and at the small end of the latter, it was still ten inches in diameter.

portion destroyed by fire, Mr. Eld
thought twenty-five feet ought to be added for its top; which makes
the whole length of the tree, w^hen growing, two hundred and sixty
feet Others were believed to exceed this, both in height and diameter.

During the time of Mr. Eld's absence, Mr. Colvocoressis remained
at the camp, and Mr. Brackenridge made short excursions to the
south of the Chickeeles. The country on this side of the river is
covered with a thick spruce forest, and the soil appears to differ much
from that of the north, being poor, and composed of a mixture of sand
and gravel, while on the north side it is an alluvial deposit, averaging
from a half to two-thirds of a mile in width, well adapted to yield good
crops of grain. From the marks on the trees, how^ever, it is believed
to be subject to an annual inundation of considerable de])th. The
weather continued dry and clear.

Allowing twelve feet for the

CARTKD FLANKS.

Near this encampment were found some rudely carved painted

I

C O L U M B I A R I V E R, 129

planks, of which Mr. Eld made a drawing* They are represented in
the wood-cut on the opposite page.

be

their origin. The colours were exceedingly bright, of a kind of red
pigment.

percciv

( by its shores that there was an ebb and flow of the waters. Mr. Eld

* tried its current, and found it setting flood about one fathom per hour.

As they proceeded, the shores lost some of their luxuriance of foliage,

* the banks had become high, and so muddy that they had some little

difficulty in finding a suitable place to encamp. Some talcose slate
was seen to compose the bluffs on the south side of the river, but it
was so soft and fragile that it could not be brought away. The only
natives seen this day were two miserable-looking beings of the Chic-
keeles tribe, but they could not understand the interpreter Joe, either in
the Nisqually or Chinook dialect. The party encamped in a hemlock

"grove, so thick as to render it impossible for the usual nightly observa-
tions to be taken. The surf was distinctly audible from the camp
during the night.

On the 31st, after passing two elbows in the river, the cape on the
south of the entrance to Gray's Harbour was seen. The flood-tide
was very strong against them, so that they made but slow progress,
and as they opened out the harbour and entered it, they found a strong
southwest wind blowing, which caused a short and disagreeable sea,
that very nearly swamped their small canoe, and obliged them to run
for the lee shore. Here all the things were taken out and placed to
dry, on one of the huge trees that had been brought down by the
freshets. From this awkward situation they w^ere relieved by the old
squaw chief, who had preceded them from Nisqually* She came over
in her large canoe, with ten Indians, and offered to carry the party
over to the weather shore, where they could encamp in a less exposed
place. The offer was gladly accepted, and they were taken over to
the village.

Mr. Eld here endeavoured to treat for the purchase of a large canoe,
in which attempt his patience was soon exhausted, for when the bargain
was all but closed, difficulties of a trivial nature were brought up which
entirely broke off* the negotiation. The Indians of this village proved
themselves to be in all respects like the tribes in the interior, who will
never adhere to a bargain if they can avoid it.

Mr. Eld and his party had now a great many difficulties to contend
with in carrying forward a survey of the harbour. These arose as
well from the weather as the want of means. The Indians for some

VOL. V. 17

xT- - r .^

130 COLUMBIA RIVER.

days continued unwilling to lend them any aid in the management of
their canoes, and none of them could be induced to venture out in
what they deemed stormy weather ; another reason for not engaging in
the service was, they did not wash to leave their wives behind. It being
at last agreed that their wives should accompany them, Mr. Colvoco-
ressis embarked in order to join Mr. Eld ; but to do this it w^as
necessary to encounter both the wind and sea, in consequence of which
the Indians refused to proceed unless they had an extra allowance of
powder and tobacco.

This being refused, they quietly steered the canoe back to the
encampment. On arriving there, it soon became evident to Mr. Col-
vocoressis that their intention was to take away their canoe, for they
at once began to put in her the few things they possessed. He there-
fore took tw^o of their guns, and concealed them in one of the tents. An
Indian, the moment Mr. Colvocoressis's back was turned to the tents,
drew his knife, rushed into them, and brought forth the guns, one of
which he handed to a woman. The musket which the squaw had was
again taken, upon which the Indians said that they would complete
their bargain, and induced Mr. Colvocoressis to believe they would do
so. He therefore embarked, and they proceeded with apparent willing-
ness, until they came opposite their own village, where they landed, and
refused to go any further. They, however, offered him a small canoe,
to take him across the river, and the Indian to whom the musket they
had taken belonged, ferried him across. In the evening, the Indians
returned to ask for the musket, but it was refused until they should

return the axe that had been left in the canoe, and agree to abide by the

bargain they had made to render them assistance. The next day the

axe was restored, and the musket given up. After this, a more friendly

disposition was evinced, as Mr. Eld supposes from the fact of their

having learnt from Nisqually who they were.

From the 1st to the 6th of August, the party effected little, and their

supply of provisions w^as becoming very low. On the latter day they

shifted their camp, about five miles towards the capes, to a small patch

of meadow-land, near one of the small streams which empty into the

harbour.

After remaining here a few days, they selected another spot, at the

South Head: and on the 10th, the Indians failing to perform their
encragements, they moved their articles themselves to their new
encampment. They had now very nearly exhausted their provisions,
and were living on the dead fish they picked up on the beach (a sort
of hake) and some berries. From continual exposure to w^et, with hard
work, as well as scanty and bad food, they all became very feeble and

COLUMBI A RI V ER. 131

sick, and were able to do but little work. On the 13th, Lieutenant De
Haven, whom I had sent over, arrived, and relieved them ; and on his
return to Baker's Bay, twenty days' provisions were sent with a party
of Kanakas, under the guidance of Boilcau, a Canadian.

This supply reached them on the 19th August, from which time ihey
proceeded rapidly with the survey, when the weather would permit.
Previous to the arrival of Lieutenant De Haven, Mr. Eld and his party
had parted wuth their own clothing and blankets, for the purpose of
effecting the purchase of a large canoe to carry on their w'ork. The
Indians refused to deliver it, except for actual pay; for they had not
yet learned to value the small pieces of paper, or orders on the Com-
pany's store, so much prized in the upper country, and which arc there
usually preferred to the articles themselves. The threat to stop trading
for powder, Mr. Eld found w^as a strong inducement to accomplish any
object with the Indians, for they prize this and tobacco beyond any

other articles, always excepting rum.

Mr. Eld, in one instance, treated one of the Indians to a pipe and
tobacco, which affected him so much that they thought he was going
into a fit, and created considerable alarm. This effect arises from their
mode of using the pipe, for they invariably swallow the smoke, and
retain the greatest part of it in the stomach and lungs.

On the 24th, the survey was finished, and they prepared for their
departure. The tract of land bordering on the Chickeeles, below the
mouth of the Sachap, and around Gray's Harbour, is of a poor descrip-
tion for cultivation. The spruce forest extends dow^n to the water's
edge, except in a few places around the harbour, w^here there are
patches of salt marsh, which produce coarse grasses and cat's-tail
(Typha). The salt creeks into which the tide flows are generally very
tortuous; and the meadows are occasionally overflowed at spring-tides.
The only piece of land that appeared suitable for cultivation, was
immediately within the South Head; but this is of small extent. The
coast, as far as Cape Shoalwater, is no more than a smooth sandy
beach, which rises in a gentle acclivity to a line of low sand-hills.

Mr. Brackenrid<]re describes the coast vegetation as consisting of
Oberonia, Neottia, Ambrosia, two species of Aster, several Gramineas,
an Armeria, with a number of saline plants; the Gaultheria is found in
great abundance, bearing a palatable berry, of which the party had
occasion to make use. For further information respecting the plants
of this section, I must refer to the Botanical Report.

Gray's Harbour seems to oflTer but few facilities for commercial
purposes. The entrance is narrow, the width being from one-half to

132 COLUMBIA RIVER.

two-thirds of a mile, with dangerous breakers on both sides. The
depth of water is from five to seven fathoms. The space, after en-
tering, is extensive, but the greater part of it is filled up with mud-
flats, which are bare at low water, and confine the harbour suitable
for the anchorage of vessels to very small limits. The river Chic-
keeles, before entering into the harbour, increases in width to several
hundred feet, and is navigable for vessels drawing twelve feet water,
eight miles above its mouth. The harbour is only suitable for vessels
of from one to two hundred tons; and there are places where such
vessels may find security between the mud shoals, some distance within
the capes.

The tides here are irregular, and influenced by the winds and
weather; the time of high water at full and change was found to be

Fogs prevail very frequently during the summer season. Our party
remained at this place for twenty-three days, three-fourths of which
time it blew a strong gale from either the southwest or northwest,
accompanied with a dense fog, that rendered it impossible to see
farther than half a mile.

The Indians in this portion of the country are not numerous. The
region at the head of Puget Sound is inhabited by a tribe called the
Toandos, whose number Mn Eld was unable to learn. The Sachals
are about forty in number : they reside about the lake of the same
name, and along the river Chickeeles: they appear to be a kind
and inoflensive tribe. The Sachap tribe numbers about sixty : they

are not as well off" for clothing as the former, and few of them were
supplied with fire-arms; they reside on the borders of the Sachap
river. The Chickeeles tribe number from one hundred and fifty to
two hundred, and inhabit the country around Gray^s Harbour : their
principal place of abode is on the north point of Gray's Harbour,
which is generally occupied by those passing to and fro, and where
they await fine weather. Mr. Eld found this tribe supplied with
muskets, blankets, and knives: they paint their faces, and have alto-
gether a warlike appearance. At one time during the stay of the
party they were disposed to be troublesome, but the men being con-
stantly on the watch, to protect themselv^es, remained unmolested,
though occasionally annoyed at the disposition evinced to take advan-
tage of any oversight. The chief of this tribe is spoken of by the
party in very high terms, for his kindness to them. He seemed
mortified at the events which occurred, and took much pains to keep
his people in order. In this, notwithstanding he possessed little au-

I.

5

C O L r M C I A R I V E R. I33

thority among his tribe, he succeeded, allhou^^h will) diiTiculty. As a

proof of his good intentions, he invariably returned all the signnls the
others had stolen.

This tribe lives principally on salmon, which ihey lake during the
season in vast quantities, and the fish are said to be as fine as those
f taken in the Columbia. On the Chickeeles, and in its branches, are

many of the weirs and stakes that have been already described. Stur-
geon are also taken in great numbers, and of a superior quality.

It may be inferred from their seldom receiving any supplies of
venison through the Indians, or meeting wath any themselves, that
there is but little game in this part of the country.

They shot a few grouse, some wild geese were seen, and the mud-
flats were cov^ered wuth white gulls in immense numbers, among w^hich
were a few pelicans.

*

The amusements of the Indians, and the manner of lounging away
their time, were similar to those of the other tribes before spoken of.

On the 24th, they w^ere glad to leave Gray's Harbour, after having,
by great perseverance and with much fatigue, completed the survey.
Mr. Eld now took up the remaining portion of the work he was
ordered to perform, namely, to trace the coast to Cape Disappoint-
ment. The Indians whom he hired to take the canoe around by
water, preferred to pass close along the beach, inside the surf, by
tracking the canoe: notwithstanding there was a very heavy surf,
they managed to pass along very quickly. This is the mode they
always adopt in journeying along the coast with their canoes, to avoid
accident from the heavy surf, of which they have much dread. The
evening of the day on which they left Gray's Harbour, they reached
a small islet, distant fifteen miles from Cape Shoalwater, where they
found the lodge of the Chickeeles chief before spoken of, who supplied
them with dried salmon, &c.

The coast between Gray's Harbour and Cape Shoalwater is bor-
dered by sand-hills, behind which, from the Indians' account, there
are lakes and streams of fresh water, in which plenty of beaver are
found.

From this chief they hired another canoe, and accompanied by him
they proceeded through Shoalwater Bay towards Cape Disappoint-
ment The two canoes separated, which caused them to pass over
the two portages between Shoalwater and Baker's Bay: that to the
east is about four and a half miles in length, while that to the w^est is
six or seven miles across. The former is usually preferred by the

L

Indians, and is one of the main passes of communication betw^een the
different tribes on the sea-coast. The woods through w^hich they

134

COLUMBIA RIVER.

passed were of spruce trees, some of which were of large dimensions;
the lesser plants were principally Vaccinium, Ledums, and some
candleberry-bushes (Myrica).

On the 27th they reached the Flying-Fish, then in Baker's Bay, and
were taken over to Astoria.

Mr. Eld received, on his arrival at Astoria, my orders to repair
with his party to Vancouver; where, being furnished by Mr. Birnie
wnth a large flat-bottomed barge, he set out to join me at that place,
which he reached on the 31st August.

I cannot refrain from expressing the satisfaction I fell at the manner
in which the service was performed, and deem it my duty to make
known to the country the commendable perseverance wulh which this
party persisted in completing the duty assigned ihem, regardless of
inconvenience, privation, and discomfort. This tour forms a part of
the operations of the Expedition that I look back upon with pride and
pleasure, and I feel that my thanks are especially due to Passed Mid-
shipmen Eld and Colvocoressis, and Mr. Brackenridge, for their devo-
tion to the service in which they were engaged.

Orders w^ere immediately given for them to join the over-land ex-
pedition to California, under Lieutenant Emmons, who was just about
proceeding to the Willamette Valley, where his party had been orga-
nized, with our own force and the settlers and trappers who were
engaged to accompany it to California. After the party was collected,
it consisted of-

Lieutenant Emmons,

Passed Midshipman Eld,

Passed Midshipman Colvocoressis,

Assistant-Surgeon AViiitUe,

Doughty, Seaman,

Sutton,

Waltham,

Merzer,

Sergeant Steams,

Corporal Hughes,
Private Marsh,

Pri\rate Smith,

u

u

I*

T. R, Peale, Naturalist,

W. Rich, Botanist,

J. D. Dana, Geologist,

A, T, Agate, A rtist,

J. D. Brackenridge, Assistant Botanist,

Baptist Guardipii, Guide,

Tibbats,

Black,

Warfields,

Molair,
Inass.

i:i:i

Those who joined the party for a safe escort, were Mr. Walker and
family, consisting of his wife, sister, three sons, and two daughters;
Burrows, w^ife, and child; Nichols, with Warfields' wife and child.

The whole party nunnbered thirty-nine, with seventy-six animals,
forty-four of which were private property.

Lieutenant Emmons at first found much difficulty in organizing
his party, on account of having to deal with persons who had little

I

COLUMBIA RIVER. 135

or no regard fiDr the promises they made, or the engagements they
entered into. This feature of character proceeds both from a desire
to obtain more money, and a ^vant of stability of purpose. Many
difRculues were encountered by him in consequence of the change
of his route to California, which many of those who were to have
accompanied him were unwilling to undertake. These were the
very best men we had engaged. Every kind of embarrassment
seemed to come upon him at once: delays and disappointments oc-
curred every day; sickness overtook the party; rumours were cir-
culated of danger from the Indians, who it was said were determined
to oppose the party and cut it off. Some of the settlers refused to
re-engage, because their crops required attention, and their harvest
might be lost; others said that they could not leave their families for
so long a time; and amidst these various sources of delay, the animals
strayed away, or were carried off. The whole, finally, resolved itself
into a demand for higher wages.

Lieutenant Emmons, though exceedingly annoyed by all these
difficulties, showed himself fully equal to them, and by patience and
perseverance overcame them all. Mr. Rodgers, whom I had desig-
nated as the provider of the party, and in whom I was told great
reliance could be placed, was not exactly suited to such a task, being
connected more or less with the inhabitants of the valley, and about
to become one of the residents ; he also was soon unable to attend to
business on account of sickness : before the organization of the second
party, therefore, he was discharged and paid off. At this point 1 shall
leave the narrative of the operations of the over-land party, until I
come down to the date when they again joined me at San Francisco.

The observations and surveys in the neighbourhood of Vancouver
being finished, we prepared for our departure. The weather during
our stay had been delightful, and we enjoyed ourselves very much in
the company of Dr. M'Laughlin, Mr. Douglass, and the officers of the
Hudson Bay Company.

I have before spoken of their attentions, but I feel that my expres-
sions are few in comparison with the numerous kindnesses we all
.received. Even Billy Bruce the gardener made us his debtor, by
sending us repeatedly some of the fine fruit and vegetables grown
under his care. I have endeavoured to repay him, by sending him
seeds ; but the route is so long and circuitous, that it is questionable
whether they ever arrive, and when they come to hand, if I shall
not be classed by him with those who have sent "trash" to Van-
couver, for him to waste his time and experience on, in attempting to
cultivate.

136 COLUMBIA RIVER.

Among the officers of the Hudson Bay Company, I must not forget
to mention Dr. Barclay, whose kind attentions in procuring specimens

4

for the Expedition, entitle him to our gratitude.

Sir George Simpson stayed only a few days. He took his depar-
ture under a salute of guns from the Cadborough, and the attendance
of all the officers and dependants of the forts. Mr. Douglass went
wdth him ; and in his suite was also Mr. Von Freeman, a Russian
gentleman, with whom I was much pleased. He was going to Sitka,
and I believe was one of the officers of the Russian Company.

The number of posts occupied by the Hudson Bay Company in
this territory is twenty-five: these are located at the best points for
trade, and so as to secure the resort of the Indians, without interfering
with their usual habits. Places are also occupied in the vicinity of
their abodes during the most favourable part of the year, for obtaining
the proceeds of their hunting. This is regulated with much skill; and
the portion of the country once under their care is never sufl^ered to
become exhausted of furs; for, whenever they discover a decrease,
the ground is abandoned for several years, until the animals have lime

to increase again.

A charge has been made against the Company, that they were
desirous of exterminating the beaver south of the Columbia, and would
continue to hunt them until every fur-bearing animal was exhausted.
This, from the information I received, I believe to be erroneous ; the
story has probably proceeded from feelings of rivalry on the part of

those who spread the report.

Another charge made against them, of exciting attacks on the free-
trappers, who are generally from our borders, is to be received with
many allowances. It has been made in many cases from interested
motives ; and I am satisfied that nothing of this kind could emanate
from Vancouver, or from any of the officers.

The whole conduct of Dr. M'Lauorhlin is totallv at variance with
such a course: every facility has been at all times extended to new-
comers and settlers; it is sufficient that they are of good character,
and the use of cattle, horses, farming utensils, and supplies, is invaria-
bly extended to facilitate their operations, until such time as they are
able to provide for themselves.

During our stay at Vancouver, I had the pleasure of seeing many
members of the Willamette Mission; but they w^ere unable to give
me much inforniation. They invariably spoke of Dr. M'Laughlin
in the highest terms : they were averse to his absolute rule over the
whole territory, and, although it was considered by them as despotic,
they could not adduce any instance of the wrong application of his

^

COLUMBIA RIVER.

137

power. He is notwithstanding extremely unpopular among all classes
of our countrymen, but for what reason it is difficult to conceive.

Dr. M'Langhhn obligingly favoured me with the heights of the
stopping-places, or encampments, on the route that is usually taken by
their parties crossing the Rocky Mountains: the results were obtained
by the boiling point of water. The journey was made during the
months of August, September, and October, 1839.

WATER BOILS, HEIGHT DEDUCED,

August 29th,

at

Edmonton, , ,

207=5

2566 feet

September 22d,

u

Jaspcr'p House,

204-5

3867

« 29th,

(I

Camp d'Origal, . , .

203-5

4391

« 30th,

ii

Camp de Fusil,

201

5716

u u

Cfi

Punchbowl, . .

198

7324

U li

fii

Head of Grand Cote,

202

5188

October 1st,

U

Bottom of Grand Cote, .

204

4131

» 3d,

u

Boat Encampment, • ,

205

3607

" 8th,

u

Colville, . . .

208

2049

« 14th,

(C

Wallawalla, • . . .

209-5

1286

This may be considered as a near approximation to the true height,
and at several of the places where the barometer has been also used,
there is a very close coincidence In the results.

The instrument used for the experiment was one of Newman's make,
and exceedingly convenient for such purposes, offering great facility in
use, without the danger of accident from its size.

The trade and operations of the Hudson Bay Company are exten-
sive, and the expense with which they are attended is very great.
I am inclined to think that it is hardly possible for any one to form an
exact estimate of the amount of profit they derive from their business
on the west side of the mountains. The stock of the Company cer-
tainly pays a large dividend ; and it is asserted that in addition a very

T

considerable surplus has been accumulated to meet any emergency;
yet it may be questioned whether their trade in the Oregon Territory
yields any profit, although it is now conducted at much less cost than
formerly. This diminution of cost arises from the fact that a great
part of the provisions are now raised in the country by the labour of
their own servants.

The Paget Sound Company, although it has been in operation for
several years, has made no dividends. The accumulation of their
live-stock may, however, be considered as an equivalent for moneyed
profits. In the event, however, of the country becoming the abode of
a civilized community, the farms and other land possessed by this
Company must become very valuable, as the posts occupy all the
points most favourably situated for trade, and the agricultural esta-

VOL, V*

M-a

18

138

COLUMBIA RIVER.

blishments have been placed in many of the best positions for farming
operations. The utmost economy is practised in every part of the
establishment of the Hudson Bay Company, and great exertions are
made to push their operations over a larger field of action. Mercan-
tile houses, supported by the credit and capital of the Company, have
even been established at the Sandwich Islands and San Francisco,
where articles of every description imported in the vessels of the
Company may be purchased.

The value of all the furs obtained on this coast does not exceed
forty thousand pounds annually; and when the cost of keeping up
their posts, and a marine composed of four ships and a steamer, is
taken into account, and allowances made for losses, interest, and insu-
rance, little surplus can be left for distribution. I am, indeed, per-
suaded, that the proceeds of their business will not long exceed their
expenses, even if they do so at present- The statement of the Com-
pany's affairs presents no criterion by which to judge of the success
of their business on the Northwest Coast. I learned that it was

the

general

impression among the officers, that such has been the
falling off in the trade, that it does not now much more than pay
expenses.

On my first visit to Vancouver, Dr. M'Laughlin was kind enough
to offer to keep a meteorological diary for me, during my stay on the
coast, that I might have the means of comparison. They had formerly
been in the habit of notinoj the changes that occurred, and for manv
years had kept a journal ; but this had been for some years omitted.
The task would be but trifling in such a well-regulated establishment,
and it is surprising that it should not have claimed more attention.
The night observations seem to be the principal difficulty. In the
register kept during our stay, the instruments were only noted in the
daytime, and the record is not available for the mean temperature of
the twenty-four hours; but as it may serve to show the state of the
weather, during the summer months, at Vancouver, I will give an ab-
stract from it. The barometer and thermometer were both compared
t\nth our. standard, and found nearly to coincide.

MONTHS,

June • .

July . . •

August. •
September .

(

6 A. M.

BAROM.

30-71 in.
30-40 .

30-28

30-28

THERMOM

2p

1

1
1

6p

1

BAROM.

1
THERMOM.

BAROM.

THERMOM.

30-27 in.

63^

30-30 b.

62°

30-36

87

1

30-37

T2 >

30-27

86

30-29

70

30-25

78

1

30-30

58

C O L U M B I A R I V E R. 139

This gives the mean standing of the barometer and thermometer,
during the day hours, at 30-32 in., and 66-33'' for the summer months.
The state of the weather, during the period of one hundred and six

/^ days, was as follows :

Fair, 76 days.

Cloudy, 19 «

Rain 11 "

106

In my inquiries of the residents, I am inclined to the opinion that the
above is a very fair estimate of the weather, though they almost all
differed in their statements: some spoke of the season as a very bad
one, others thought it was very fine. The crops of all descriptions of
grain were good, which I supposed to be the best criterion.

The climate of the western section, throughout the year, is mild ; and
they neither experience extreme heat in summer, nor severe cold in
winter. I am disposed to believe this to be owing to the constant
prevalence of the southwesterly or ocean winds. It certainly is not
owing to the influence of any warm stream setting along its shores.
The current near the coast sets to the southeast, and is of a cold tem-
perature: it would rather tend to lessen the heats in summer than the
cold in winter. There have been no observations kept by the mission-
aries in this lower section of the country- It is liable, from the expe-
rience of our parties, to early frosts, owing to the proximity of the
Snowy Mountains, Frosts sometimes occur in the latter part of
August, which check all vegetation at that early season.

The southwest winds are caused by the vast extent of the sandy and
arid country lying east of the Cascade and Californian range of moun-
tains, which becoming heated rarefies the air, and causes an indraught
from the west. This current is found to increase in violence as the
rarefied region is approached; and so constant is this draught, that we
experienced only three days of easterly winds during our stay, and
these were very moderate in force. Immediately on the coast, the
winds are from the west-southwest to west-northwest : these maintain
their direction until they reach the interior, and blow with great
violence.

The winters are invariably what would be termed open ones with
us. Snow seldom falls, and when it does, it rarely lasts more than two
or three days* The rains during this season are frequent, though not
violent. The climate in the western section, from all accounts, is not
unlike that of England, and would be termed a wet one. The winter
of 1840 was the severest they had yet experienced.

140 C O L U M B I A R I V E R,

4

The middle section is, on the contrary, exceedingly dry, and the
temperature more changeable, the variations being great and sudden.
The mercury has been known to fall as low as — 18° in the winter, and
to rise as high as 108° in the shade, in summer. In Appendix Xllf.,
Vol. JV., will be found a register of the temperature, kept at one of the
missionary stations, Lapwai, on the Kooskooskee. It may be said to
be on the eastern border of the middle section.

The eastern section has an exceedingly variable climate: it fluctu-
ates from cold to hot in a few hours, ranging through fifty or sixty
degrees of temperature; yet, from the accounts I have, from very
respectable authority, the cold is by no means severe for any length of
time. The Rev. Mr. Smith, w^ho was two years there, assured me that
the cattle and horses required no other food than what they could pick
up, the natural hay before spoken of being sufficient for their support.

r

The climate throughout Oregon is thought to be salubrious for the
white race ; and was considered so by the Indians, prior to the year
1830, when the ague and fever, or any disease resembling it, was not
known to exist. The Indians fully believe, to this day, that Captain
Dominis introduced the disease in 1830. Since that time, it has com-
mitted frightful ravages among them ; not so much, perhaps, from the
violence of the disease itself, as the manner in which they treat it. It
was not until quite lately that they were willing to be treated after our
mode, and they still in many cases prefer the incantations and practices
of the medicine-man.

I satisfied myself that the accounts given of the depopulation of this
country are not exaggerated ; for places were pointed out to me where
dwelt whole tribes, that have been entirely swept off; and, during the
time of the greatest mortality, the shores of the river were strewed with
the dead and dying. This disease occurs, it is said, semi-annually, and
in the case of foreigners, it is more mild at each succeeding attack.

Owing to the above causes, the population is much less than I
expected to find it. I made every exertion to obtain correct informa-
tion, and believe that at the time of our visit, the following was a ery
nearly the truth, viz. :

Vancouver and Washington Island, ...••• 5,000
From latitude 50^ to 54° N., on the main, ..... 2,000
Penn's Cove, Whidby's Island, including the main land (Sachet

tribe,)

650

Hood's Canal (Suquamish and Toando tribes), . . . . 500

. . . 300

Birch Bay,
Fraser's River,

500

8,950

COLUM Bl A RI VEIL 141

Brought forward,

8,950

Clalams at Port Discovery, New Dungcncss, 350

Port Townsond, 70

Classot tribe, Cape Flattery and Point Grenville, • « • • 1,550

200

Nisqually, • • •
Chickeeles and Puget Sound,
Port Orchard,
Cowlitz, . • •

Okonagan, . . •

700
150
330

300

Colville and Spokane, • • • • 450

400

Kilamukcs,
Chi nooks,
Clatsops,
Cascades.

209
220
150

Pillar Rock, Oak Point, and Columbia River, . • • • « 300

Willamette Falls and Valley, .

Dalles,

De Chute's and John Day^s River,

Yakima, ,»

Wallaw^alla,

Blackfeet, that dwell principally on the west side of the Rocky

Mountains, • . . , • • . • •

Umpquas, • • , • » .'. . , •

275

250
300

100

1,100

Rogues* River,
Klamets,
Shaste, . ,
Callapuyas, .

1,000
400
500
300

500

600

Total, . 19,354

be considered as containinfr

*—■

about twenty thousand Indians ; and this, from a careful revision of
the data obtained by myself and some of the officers, I am satisfied, is
rather above than under the truth. The whites and half-breeds were
between seven and eight hundred- One hundred and fifty were Ameri-
cans. The number of the latter has, however, increased very much
since the year 1840, as many emigrants have crossed the mountains.
The decrease of the red race is, no doubt, equivalent to the increase

by immigration.

The surveying parties having returned, on the 14th we took leave
of Vancouver. After proceeding down to the mouth of the Willa-
mette, we anchored, for the purpose of finishing the soundings and
making an examination of the channels into which the river is here
divided by a few islands.

This work being completed, we dropped down several miles, to
overtake the sounding parties. Here we were a good deal annoyed
from the burning of the prairies by the Indians, which filled the atmo-
sphere with a dense smoke, and gave the sun the appearance of being

142 COLUMBIA RIVER.

viewed through a smoked glass. We were, fortunately, in a great
degree, independent of it, as it was not necessary to see more than a
short distance to discover the signals for the soundings. It however
prevented me from verifying my astronomical stations, which I was
desirous of doing.

Acting-Master Sinclair, who had been despatched to Vancouver
for some articles belonging to the Oregon, that had been left there,
joined us below Warrior's Point, on the 19th, with letters and news
that had been brought from the United States by an over-land party.
These letters w^ere very acceptable, as w^e had not received any
advices from home for twenty-two months, and tended to revive our
spirits, as well as encourage our exertions. On the 20th, we anchored
again off Coffin Rock, near which we found a depth of twenty-five
fathoms, which is the deepest w^ater within the capes. This place is
sixty miles from the mouth of the river, and eight miles above the
confluence of the Cowiitz. The shores here are composed of trap
and a conglomerate, the last of which is the same rock as that which
occurs below, and has already been spoken of The Coffin Rock,
w^hich is not more than sixty feet in diameter, and tw^elve feet above
the water, appears to have been exclusively reserved for the burial of
chiefs. Dr. Holmes procured here some fine specimens of Flathead
skulls for our collection- We anchored the same evening off the
Cowlitz.

Early the next morning, I proceeded up the Cowlitz in my gig, in
order to finish the survey of that stream and examine the strata of
coal said to exist there. After entering it, it was with difficulty that I
recognised the river ; for there is a greater difference than even in the
Columbia, between its high and low states. After passing up the Cow-
litz several miles, I encountered rapids, through which it was necessary
to dr%g the boat by a line. I found, after great exertion and fatigue,

r

we could not ascend beyond thirteen miles; for it had become so shallow
that the boat would not float, and we had not stren^^th enout^h to force

her over the wide bars of gravel and sand, that had apparently accu-
mulated during the last spring. After securing some specimens of
licrnite that were found embedded in the alluvial banks, and taking
observations for time, I turned back; and feeling anxious to reach the

r«

In doing

this, we all had a narrow escape ; and particularly two of the boat's
crew, who w^ere in great danger of their lives. We fortunately
escaped, but with considerable damage to the boat and a few bruises,
the whole of which was the work of an instant. This taught me not

to venture upon such an experiment again, and I felt thankful to escape

t

I

COLUMBIA RIVER. 143

as we did. The Cowlitz is not nav^igable, except at high water during
the spring and fall; and even then it is difficult to ascend, on account
of the strength of its current.

We had now overtaken the sounding parties, and, aided by the
boats of the brig, were enabled to push the work towards a close.
Having reached the influence of the tide below Oak Point, all fears of
the ague and fever vanished: we had indeed been extremely fortunate
in exemption from this disease, and only those suffered from its attacks
who had been before exposed. Those affected belonged chiefly to the
Peacock, and the larger portion were Sandwich Islanders. The crew
of the Porpoise were generally exempt from it : all recovered from the
slight attacks under a simple treatment. I felt not a little satisfaction
at disappointing the knowing ones, who had prognosticated the cer-
tainty of my having all hands sick and dying by attempting the survey
in the unhealthy season. When we reached Astoria, we had nearly
all hands on duty.

On the 26th, we had again reached Katalamet Point, the low^er end
of Puget Island. The brig passed down the usual channel on the
south side, while I surveyed the northern passage. The latter is about
four miles in length,

Puget Island affords no land fit for cultivation, and during the season
of freshets is overflowed. It is fringed around its borders with cotton-

wood, willowy pine, and hazel, &c. ; but it may be considered valueless.

At this anchorage I was joined by Michel La Framboise, w^ho brought
a supply of fresh beef for the crew, which they were in much need of.
Since I had first seen Michel, I had learned more of his history and
the cause which led him to complain of a want of advancement, I
regret to say, that, like too many others, he ought to look to himself as
the cause of his misfortune, instead of indulging in complaints.

He confirmed much of the information I had received, and gave me
full statements of the population, which I found to agree with what he
had already imparted to officers belonging to the Company, as well as
the Expedition.

I questioned him relative to the stories respecting the shooting of
Indians, on the route to and from California, and he told me they had
no battles, but said it was necessary to keep them always at a distance.
On my repeating the question, whether the reports we had heard of
several being killed during the late expedition w^ere true, he. French-
man-like, shrugged his shoulders and answered : " Ah, monsieur, lis
sent des mauvaises gens : il faut en prendre garde et tirer sur eux
quelquefois.''

On the 29th of September we again reached the Pillar Rock, and on

144 COLUMBIA RIVER.

the 3d of October we passed through the Tongue Point Channel Be-
fore doing this, we took the precaution to buoy it out, and then towed
the vessels through at high w^ater. This enabled me to lay down its
tortuous course with accuracy, although I was aw^are that there is little
probability of its remaining over the season without some material
change. The new and direct channel discovered by us, leading up
from Tongue Point, will supersede the necessity of using it, and from
its direct course, is more likely to be permanent ; but the channels in
this river will be always more or less subject to change, from the im-
pediments the large trees drifting down cause, when they ground on
the shoals.

The same evening we anchored about two miles above Astoria, and

r

in order to lose no time, I proceeded there in my boat to make ar-
rangements for getting off the stores, and embarking every thing pre-
vious to our departure.

I found that Purser Speiden had prepared for us ten thousand pounds
of the best bread we had had during the cruise: this had been accom-
plished by his great perseverance and attention to the business, and I
was thus relieved from all anxiety in regard to that indispensable article
of the ration.

On the 1st of October, the Porpoise anchored at Astoria, and every
body was now engaged in expediting the embarkation of stores on
board of both vessels; the officers were detailed temporarily to the
Oregon, whilst the necessary observations for the chronometers and
magnetism were again made.

It now became important that the two larger vessels should be got
to sea as early as possible. I therefore determined to seize the first
opportunity that should offer for crossing the bar, and to return myself
in the tender to complete the survey. We, in consequence, proceeded
on the 2d to Baker's Bay, whilst the boats were still employed under
Lieutenant De Haven in taking soundings. Acting-Master Knox and
Passed Midshipman Reynolds, were now ordered to the Porpoise and
Oregon, for the purpose of piloting them to sea, when an opportunity
should serve. In Baker's Bay we found the Company's schooner, the
Cadborough, which had been waiting three weeks for an opportunity
to get over the bar.

As the Peacock's launch could not be taken with us, I had at one
time an intention of sending her along the coast to San Francisco.
The weather and advanced state of the season, however, would have
rendered such a voyage dangerous; I therefore came to the determi-

every

boat

^

COLUMBIA RIVER. 145

distress. Mr. Birnie, on my asking him to take charge of her for
that object, would have readily consented to do so for the Com-
pany, but had no authority. I therefore immediately wrote to Dr.
M'Laughlin, to say that I had placed the launch at his disposal, and
to request that she might be put under the supervision of the Com-
pany's officers, for the above purposes. She was completely fitted,
and delivered over to Mr. Birnie. The letters to Dr. M'Laughlin on
this subject will be found in Appendix V. In consequence of my
departure from the coast, I received no answer from him, but have
understood from other sources that the boat had been taken charge of
Her construction w^as admirably adapted for that purpose, and I am
sure that if any disaster should occur, the assistance she will render
will be of great benefit.

On the 5th, the prospect of passing the bar was favourable, and at
2^ 30™ p. M. the Company's bark Columbia, which had been lying off
and on for the last week, entered. On passing the vessels she saluted
us, and proceeded up the river to Astoria. At 3^ 30™, I determined on
making the attempt to get to sea. We quickly got the vessels under
way, and in an hour afterwards we had passed the bar in safety.

The Cadborough followed our example, and went to sea also. Her
master, before we got under way, had strong misgivings as to under-
taking the risk at so late an hour both of the day and tide. The ves-
sels of the Hudson Bay Company never attempt to pass either in or
out, unless the opportunity is such as will warrant the master in
making the attempt. They consider that there is sufficient risk at the

best of times, and are unwilling to increase it. I have already stated

that the entrance to the Columbia is impracticable for two-thirds of the
year. This arises from the fact that it can never be entered at night,
and in the day only at particular times of the tide and direction of the
wind. Unlike all known ports, it requires both the tide and wind to
be contrary, to insure any degree of safety. Those who may desire to
be farther informed on this subject, are referred to the Hydrographical
Memoir of the cruise.

Having succeeded in getting the brigs beyond the risk of detention, I
gave them orders to await my return, and w^ent on board the tender, to
pass again into the river, for the purpose of completing all that re-
mained of the survey. The Company's bark Columbia had just returned
from the northern posts. The master, Mr. Broughton, was kind enough
to give me much information respecting the northern coasts, and the In-
dian tribes : he likewise presented the Expedition with many curiosities
of native workmanship, some of which showed much ingenuity, parti-
cularly their pipes and masks. The latter are used in their theatrical

VOL. V. N 19

*

146

COLUMBIA RIVER.

exhibitions, which are represented by those who have witnessed them
as affording them much entertainment, and a pastime in which they
very frequently indulge ; many of these masks are represented with the
spoon-lip. As this ornament belongs to the female sex, they also

MASKS OF THE NORTHWEST i:

engage in the diversion* Some of the masks are sufficiently hideous,
while others are carved with skill : they use the soft pine for this pur-
pose. The wood is variously stained with red, black, and yellow
marks. The two of these represented in the engraving will give a
good idea of those that are the best executed. The pipes, saucers,
&c., are usually carved from clay.

PIPES OF THE NORTHWEST INDIANS.

i

The survey we finished by the morning of the 10th October, when
we again reached Baker's Bay, and being determined to lose no time,
we made the attempt to pass the bar: though we succeeded in doing
so, I am satisfied it was at great risk; for, as I have been told is fre-
quently the case, the wind failed us just at the most critical point,
and rendered it doubtful if we should pass. Our situation was danfje-
rous, and a vessel of any other class must have been wrecked. For
at least twenty minutes I was in doubt whether we could effect our
object; but by the use of sweeps we accomplished it, principally
through the exertions of the extra men, belonging to the surveying
boats, whom we had on board.

The Oregon was the only vessel in sight; and when I boarded her,

i

Porpo

The

next day she hove in sight, and the arrangements were soon completed.

t

!

COLUMBIA RIVER. 147

I now supplied the tender with water and other requisites, and gave
Mr. Knox orders to take a few more soundings on the outside of the
bar, and then proceed along the coast as far as latitude 42° N*, and to
examine it, and the mouth of the Umpqua.

Previous to leaving the Cohimbia river, I addressed the foUowmg

M'Laushlin and Mr

U. S. Brig Porpoise,

Baker's Bay,

October 5th, 1841.

Gentlemen,

^

My last duty, before leaving the Columbia, I feel to be that of
expressing to you my sincere thanks for the important aid and facili-
ties which you have afforded the Expedition on all occasions, for
carrying out the object of our visit to this part of the world; and be
assured it will prove a very pleasing part of my duty to make a due
representation of it to my government.

Your personal kindness and friendly attentions to myself and
officers, from our first arrival, and also to Captain Hudson and his
officers after the wreck of the Peacock, have laid us under many
obligations, which I trust it may be at some future day in our power
to return.

We all would request through you an expression of our feelings
for the many attentions and kindnesses received, and the pleasures
afforded ns by the officers of the Hudson Bay Company's service, with
whom we have had any intercourse, which will be long remembered
with pleasure.

With my sincere wishes for the health, happiness, and prosperity of
yourselves and famiUes, I am, very truly.

Your obedient servant,

Charles Wilkes,

To John M'Laughlin and Commanding Exploring Expedition.

James Douglass, EsauiREs,

Chief Factors. H. B. C. Service, Vancouver.

At the same time, I wrote a letter to our government, informing them
of the assistance we had received, stating the services these gentlemen
had rendered us, and asking that an expression of acknowledgment
might be made, through the British minister at Washington, to the
Directors of the Hudson Bay Company in England,

On the night of the 15th, we parted company with the Oregon, and
did not see her again until she arrived at San Francisco* We coasted
along to the southward, in the Porpoise. The land is high and moun-
tainous, and may be seen at a great distance. Soundings of dark sand

148

COLUMBIA RIVER.

are obtained, in from thirty to forty fathoms water, about fifteen or
twenty miles from the land.

The coast south of the Columbia river I regretted we had not an
opportunity more particularly to examine: the attempt of the Flying-
Fish was unsuccessful ; the season had advanced so far as to make it

■

next to impossible to accomplish it in the manner I desired. I have no
reason to doubt the correctness of the examinations that have been
already made. No ports exist along any part of it, that are accessible
to any class of vessels, even those of but very small draught of water;
and the impediment that the constant and heavy surf offers, along the
whole coast, to a landing in boats, makes this part of our territory
comparatively valueless in a commercial point of view. Along a great
part of it is an iron-bound shore, rising precipitately from the water.
Anchorage in a few places may be had, but only in fair weather, and
during the fine season. For a more particular description of the coast,
I refer to the Hydrographical Memoir.

On the 18th, we made Cape de los Reyes and the Farallones. In
the afternoon we were boarded by a boat from the Company's bark,
Cowlitz, in which was her master, Mr. Brochier, and M. Duplot de
Mofras. The latter informed me that he had just made a tour through
Mexico and California, and was now going to the Columbia, for a
passage to Oahu. The same evening, finding that I could not reach
the port, I anchored in thirteen fathoms water.

On the 19th, we were under way as soon as the tide made, and at
3 p. M. we anchored near the Vincennes, in Sausalito Bay, on the north
side of the entrance. I was gratified to find all well. Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold reported to me that he had fulfilled the instruc-
tions relative to the Sacramento river. Nothing had yet been heard of
Lieutenant Emmons; and the next day I despatched the launch up the
river to meet his party. The Oregon came in during the afternoon,
and I forthwith made such disposition of the officers and men, as I
deemed the future wants of the service would require ; this, and the
operations of the Vincennes, will form the subject of the next chapter.

HATS, XORTHWEST COAST,

CHAPTER Y.

CONTENTS.

ARRIVAL OP THE VINCENNES AT SAN FRANCISCO— PREPARATIONS FOR THE SUR-
VEYS—SAUSALITO— LONG DROUGHT-PRESIDIO— ALCALDE OF VERBA BUENA-TOWN
OF VERBA BUENA- UNSETTLED STATE OF CALIFORNIA -CLIMATE OF SAN FRAN-

CISCO-SOIL—CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA-RIVERS-HARBOURS-TRADE— MANUFACTURE
OF WINE-INDUSTRY— MILLS— SHEEP— SWINE-MAGISTRATES AND ADMINISTRATION
OF JUSTICE — REVOLUTIONS OF CALIFORNIA — OPINIONS IN RELATION TO THEM —
RELATIONS W^ITH MEXICO — MODE OF RECRUITING FOR THE MISSIONS — PRESENT
CONDITION OF THE INDIANS— CHANGE IN THE ADMINISTRATION OP THE MISSIONS-
ITS EFFECTS ON THE INDIANS — THEIR NUMBERS — NUMBERS OP THE WHITES-
THEIR HEALTH — THEIR CHARACTER — THEIR MORALS— THEIR HOSP[TALITY— THEIR
CRUELTY-EXPEDITION UP THE SACRAMENTO— BAY OF SAN PABLO-DELTA OP THE

■

SACRAMENTO— CAPTAIN SUTER— NEW HELVETIA— CAPTAIN SUTER'S FARMING AND

OTHER AVOCATIONS— INDIAN DANCE — DISEASES — ROUTE TO OREGON— DEPARTURE
FROM NEW HELVETIA -FEATHER RIVER -GAME -THE TULA -INDIANS- BEARS -
INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF- MANNERS, ETC., OF THE INDIANS— THEIR RANCHERIA
—THEFT BY AN INDIAN — BUTE PR AIRIE- FISH WEIR — KINKLA TRIBE — HUNTING —
t RETURN TO NEW HELVETIA — AMERICAN SETTLERS — INDIAN VILLAGES - OCCUPA-

TIONS OF THE TWO SEXES— ARIDITY OF THE COUNTRY— CROPS-ANIMALS— RETURN

OF SURVEYING PARTY TO THE VINCENNES— VISITS OF THE INHABITANTS TO THE
SHIP — MARTINEZ FAMILY — AMUSEMENTS — CAPTAIN RICHARDSON — VALLEY OF

NAPPA-TOWN OP ZONOMA-GENERAL VALLEJO — MISSION OP SAN RAFAEL-FETE
IN HONOUR OP A SAINT -BEAR AND BULL FIGHT-EXCURSION TO SANTA CLARA-
EMBARCADERO — ESTANCIA OF PERALTOS — DON MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA— MISSION
OP SANTA CLARA— PADRE MERC A DOR— CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA— GARDEN-PUEBLO
OF SAN JOSE — ITS ALCALDE — MODE OP CONDUCTING BUSINESS IN CALIFORNIA -
DIFFICULTY IN PROCUTtING HORSES — DEPARTURE FROM SANTA CLARA-CALIFOR-
NIAN HORSEMAN— RANCHEROS-L AS PULG AS— ESTANCIA OF SENOR SANCHEZ-YERBA
BfUENA— RETURN TO THE SHIP.

N2

(149)

1^"

I

f

4

1

4

t

I

t

CHAPTER y.

CALIFORNIA.

1841.

After Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold joined the Vincennes, she
bore away for San Francisco, for the purpose of carrying into effect
my instructions (see Appendix VI). She arrived at that port on the
14th of August, and anchored off Yerba Buena. Several vessels,
amongst them two Americans, were found here, and intelligence was
received of the death of General Harrison, President of the United
States.

As soon as the ship anchored, an officer was despatched on shore to
call upon the authorities; but none of any description were to be found.
The only magistrate, an alcalde, was absent. The frequency of revo-
'utions in this country had caused a great change since the visit of
Captain Beechey.

On the 17th, after consultation with the captain of the port, a Mr.
Richardsop, the ship w^as moved to the north shore, at Sausalito, or
Whaler's Harbour. Water, which it was impossible to obtain at
Yerba Buena, on account of the drought that had prevailed for several
months, is here to be had from a small spring. After the ship was
moored, the boats were hoisted out, and fitted for surveying duties up
the river Sacramento-

Oa approaching the coast in the neighbourhood of San Francisco,
the country has by no means an inviting aspect* To the north, it
rises in a lofty range, whose highest point is known as the Table Hill,
and forms an iron-bound coast from Punto de los Reyes to the mouth
of the harbour.

To the south, there is an extended sandy beach, behind which rise
the sand-hills of San Bruno, to a moderate height. There are no

(151)

153 CALIFORNIA.

symptoms of cultivation, nor is the land on either side fit for it ; for
in the former direction it is mountainous, in the latter sandy, and in
both barren. The entrance to the harbour is striking: bold and rocky
shores confine the rush of the tide, which bore us on and through a
narrow passage into a large estuary: in this, several islands and rocks
lie scattered around : some of the islands are clothed with vegetation
to their very tops; others are barren and covered with guano, having
an immense number of sea-fowls hovering over, around, and alighting
upon them. The distant shores of the bay extend north and south far
beyond the visible horizon, exhibiting one of the most spacious, and at
the same time safest ports in the world. To the east rises a lofty in-
land range, known by the name of La Sierra, brilliant with all the
beautiful tints that the atmosphere in this climate produces.

Yerba Buena is the usual though by no means the best anchorage.
The town, as is stated, is not calculated to produce a favourable im-
pression on a stranger. Its buildings may be counted, and consist of a
large frame building, occupied by the agent of the Hudson Bay Com-
pany, a store, kept by Mr. Spears, an American, a billiard-room and
bar, a poop cabin of a ship, occupied as a dwelling by Captain Hinck-
ley, a blacksmith's shop, and some out-buildings. These, though few
in number, are also far between. With these, I must not forget to
enumerate an old dilapidated adobe building, which has a conspicuous
position on the top of the hill overlooking the anchorage. When to
this we add a sterile soil and hills of bare rock, it w^ill be seen that
Yerba Buena and the country around it are any thing but beautiful
This description holds good when the tide is high, but at low water it
has for a foreground an extensive mud-flat, which does not add to the
beautv of the view.

Although I was prepared for anarchy and confusion, I was surprised
when I found a total absence of all government in California, and even
its forms and ceremonies thrown aside.

After passing through the entrance, we were scarcely able to dis-
tinguish the Presidio; and had it not been for its solitary flag-staff, we
could not have ascertained its situation. From this staff no flag
floated; the building was deserted, the walls had fallen to decay, the
guns were dismounted, and every thing around it lay in quiet. We
were not even saluted by the stentorian lungs of some soldier, so cus-
tomary in Spanish places, even after all political power as well as
military and civil rule has fled. I afterwards learned that the Presidio
was still a garrison in name, and that it had not been wholly aban-
doned; but the remnant of the troops stationed there consisted of no
more than an officer and one soldier. I was not able to learn the rank

CALIFORNIA- 153

of the former, as he was absent, and appeared, at least among the
foreigners, lo be little known.

At Yerba Buena there was a similar absence of all authority. The
only officer was the alcalde, who dwells at the mission of Nostra Sefiora
de los Dolores, some three miles off. He was full of self-importance,
making up for w^hat he wanted in the eyes of others by a high estimate
of his own dignity, T could find no one who could furnish me with
his name, which must be my apology for not recording it in this place.
Some excuse may be offered for his inattention to his duties, as I
understood that he had just been united in wedlock to a lady of one of
the distinguished faaiilies of the country; and af^er such an event in
California much gaiety and rejoicing usually follow, until the hilarity
at times becomes so uproarious as to end in fighting and bloodshed.

Under the Palermo Mountain, or Table Hill of Beechey, which is
two thousand five hundred feet high, and sparsely wooded with a few
gnarled and scraggy oaks, the hills open towards the bay into a kind
of vale, which had been chosen for the position of the observatory,
and where the instruments had been set up under the direction of
Lieutenant Carr. This place is well adapted for the resort of whalers.
Here they may repair their boats, obtain water, and refit ; and from
their frequent resort to it, has obtained the name of Whaler's Harbour.
The cove is a safe anchorage, being protected from the northwest and
westerly w^inds, w^hich prevail during the summer season, and often
blow with great violence.

At the time of our visit, the country altogether presented rather a
singular appearance, owing, as I afterwards observed, to the withered
vegetation and the ripened wild oats of the country. Instead of a
lively green hue, it had generally a lint of a light straw-colour, show-
ing an extreme want of moisture. The drought had continued for
eleven months ; the cattle were dying in the fields ; and the first view
of California was not calculated to make a favourable impression
either of its beauty or fertihty,

I found it very difficult to obtain accurate information in relation to
Upper California. The country, at the time of our visit, and for
several years previous, had been in a state of revolution; and, as is
often the case under similar circumstances, was involved in anarchy
and confusion, without laws or security of person and property. It
is undergoing such frequent changes, that it is difficult to understand
or to describe them.

With California is associated the idea of a fine climate, and a rich
and productive soil This, at least, was the idea with w^hich I entered

VOL. V. 20

154 CALIFORNIA.

its far-famed port ; but I soon found, from the reports of the officers,
after the trial they had had of it during the months of August and
September, that their experience ahogether contradicted the received
opinion upon the first mentioned point. Many of them compared its
climate to that of Orange Harbour, at Cape Horn, with its cold bluster-
ing winds and cloudy skies. This kind of weather prevails during the
greater part of the year, and the comparison is literally true in relation
to one portion of California — the sea-coast.

There is, perhaps, no other country where there is such a diversity
of features, soil, and climate, as California. The surface exhibits the
varieties of lofty ranges of mountains, confined valleys, and extensive
plains. On the coast, a range of high land extends in length from Cape
Mendocino to latitude 32^ N,, and in breadth into the interior from ten
to twenty miles.

The valley of San Juan, of no great extent, lies between these hills
and the Sierra, which is a low range of mountains. East of the Sierra
is the broad valley of the Sacramento, which is prolonged to the south
in that of Buena Ventura, as far as Mount San Bernardino, under the
thirty-fourth parallel. Beyond this valley is the Californian Range,
which is a continuation of the Cascade Range of Oregon, and whose
southern summits are capped with snow. This range gradually de-
creases in height, until it declines into hills of moderate elevation. To
the east of the Californian Mountains are the vast sandy plains, of
which we know but little, except that they form a wide trackless waste,
destitute of every thing that can fit it for the habitation of man or beast

The soil is as variable as the face of the country. On the coast
range of hills there is little to invite the agriculturist, except in some
vales of no great extent. These hills are, however, admirably adapted
for raising herds and flocks, and are at present the feeding-grounds of
numerous deer, elk, &c., to which the short sweet grass and wild oats
that are spread over them, afford a plentiful supply of food. No at-
tempts have been made to cultivate the northern part of this section, nor
is it susceptible of being the seat of any large agricultural operations.

The valley of the Sacramento, and that of San Juan, are the most
fruitful parts of California, particularly the latter, which is capable of
producing wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c,, with all the fruits of the
temperate and many of the tropical climates. It likewise offers fine
pasture-grounds for cattle^ This region comprises a level plain, from
fifteen to twenty miles in width, extending from the bay of San Fran-
cisco, teyond the mission of that name, north and south. This may
be termed the srarden of California; but although several small streams

CALIFORNIA. I55

and lakes serve to water it, yet In dry seasons or droughts, not only
the crops but the herbage also suffers extremely, and the cattle are
deprived of food.

The Sierra affords little scope for cultivation, being much broken,
barren, and sandy. It is in places covered with cedar, pine, and oak;
but it offers few inducements to the settler. The great valley of
Buena Ventura next succeeds, which, although it offers more prospects
of profitable cultivation, is by all accounts far inferior to that of San
Juan. It lies nearly parallel to the latter, and is watered by the San
Joachim river and its branches.

In this valley the Californian Indians principally dwell. The San
Joachim receives its waters from the many streams that issue from
the Californian range of mountains. These are well wooded, their
base being covered with oaks, to which succeeds the red California

cedar (Schubertia abertina), and after it, in a still higher region, pines,
until the snows are encountered. On the eastern side of this range,
there is found very little timber, and in consequence of the want of
moisture, trees do not flourish, even on the west side. The inland
plain, constituting a large part of Upper California, is, according to all
accounts, an arid waste; the few rivers that exist being periodical,
and losing themselves in the sandy soil.

Of the latter portion of country, however, there is little known, and
the accounts given of it vary extensively. It has been crossed by
seven persons, who differ altogether in respect to its appearance. One
declared that the horses and men had not only a scanty supply of
water, but were actually nearly famished for want of food ; while
others have found both grass and water plentiful. The only thing
that can reconcile these contradictory statements is, that these dif-
ferent persons had visited the country at different seasons of the year.
It seems not at all improbable that the first of these accounts should
be the correct one, for we find great aridity throughout the rest of
California, and Oregon also. All agree that the middle and extensive
portion of this country is destitute of the requisites for supplying the
wants of man.

In climate, California varies as much if not ev'en more than in
natural features and soil. On the coast range, it has as high a nr^ean
temperature in winter as in summer. The latter is in fact the coldest

^

part of the year, owing to the constant prevalence of the northwest
winds, which blow with the regularity of a monsoon, and are exceed-
ingly cold, darhp, and uncomfortable, rendering fire often necessary
for comfort in midsummer. This is, however, but seldom resorted to,
and many persons have informed me that they have suffered more

156 CALIFORNIA.

M

The

Y

climate thirty miles from the coast undergoes a great change, and in
no part of the world is there to be found a finer or more equable one
than in the valley of San Juan. It more resembles that of Andalusia,
in Spain, than any other, and none can be more salubrious. The cold
winds of the coast have become warmed, and have lost their force and
violence, though they retain their freshness and purity- This strip of
country is that in which the far-famed missions have been established ;
and the accounts of these have led many to believe that the whole of
Upper California was w^ell adapted for agricultural uses. This is not
the case, for the small district already pointed out is the only section
of country where these advantages are to be found. This valley
extends beyond the pueblo of San Juan, or to the eastward of Monte-
rey : it is of no great extent, being about twenty miles long by twelve
wide.

The Sierra, which separates the valley of San Juan from that of
Buena Ventura, is about one thousand five hundred feet high, barren
and sandy. Pines cover its summit, and the climate is exceedingly
dry and arid, though cooled by the fresh wind that passes beyond
them. Nest comes the central valley of Buena Ventura, which is a
continuation of the Sacramento, and through which the San Joachim
flows- Being confined within the two ranges of mountains, and not
having the same causes operating to modify the temperature as the
smaller valley of San Juan, the heats of its summer are oppressive,
the thermometer ranging, it is said, higher than within the torrid zone,
and the heat continuing without cessation-

Although the Californian Range is covered with snow in close
proximity to this valley, it seems to have but little effect in modi-
fying the climate, which is represented as tropical throughout the
year. This valley extends as far south as the San Bernardino Moun-
tain. The residents in California say that they have never known the
wind to blow from the northeast within thirty miles of the coast.

This state of things may also prevail in the interior, and will natu-
rally prevent the cool stratum of air from descending into the valley, it
being carried to the interior by the prevailing winds from an opposite

quarter.

In ordinary seasons these valleys are well watered by streams from
the mountains, which vary very much in size: they are for some part
of the year mere brooks, while during the rainy season, from November
to February, they become in some cases impassable. The Sacramento
is the largest river in California. One of its branches, Destruction
river, takes its rise near Mount Shaste, and was examined throusrhout

CALIFORNIA. 157

the whole of its course by our land party, until it joined the Sacra-
mento: the latter is thought by some to pass through the mountains
and join Pitt's river. Pitt's river is said to take its rise to the northeast
of the Shaste Mountain, and from the information that I received, ex-
tends as far as Pitt's Lake, under the forty-second parallel. I have
reason to doubt whether the length of its course is so great, and believe
that the Sacramento has its source in the eastern spurs of the Shaste
Mountain. I have, however, indicated by a dotted line on the map,
the course Pitt's river is thought to pursue before it joins the Sacra-
mento. This, if correct, would give the Sacramento, with its branches,
a course of two hundred miles from the ocean.

The first branch of any size in descending the Sacramento is that
called Feather river, w^hich joins it belovv^ the Prairie Butes, coming
from the northeast. This branch takes its rise in the California Moun-
tains, near their northern end, and has a course of about forty miles.
The American river is a small branch that joins the Sacramento at
New Helvetia. After receiving this stream, the Sacramento is joined
by the San Joachim, which courses from the south, and below their
confluence enters the bay of San Pablo through the Straits of Kaquines,
thence passing into the bay of San Francisco.

It is navigable for boats to the distance of one hundred and fifty
miles, and for vessels as far as New" Helvetia. The upper portion of it,
near the Prairie Butes, overflows its banks, and submerges the whole
of the Sacramento Valley as far down as the San Joachim. This

inundation is probably caused by the united effects of the Sacramento
and the Feather rivers, as there is not in its bed sufficient room to
discharge so large a quantity of water. This valley will be presently
spoken of in connexion with its survey.

The San Joachim does not pass through the Tula Lake, as laid down
by Coulter; its sources are in the Californian Range. The Tula Lake
is called by the Indians, Chintache Lake; it is for the most part sepa-
rated from the channel of the river, but when full joins it.

There are many small streams that flow through the different valleys,
and afford partial opportunites for irrigating the land ; but there are
none of them navigable, except the Sacramento.

Upper California may boast of one of the finest, if not the very best
harbour in the world, — that of San Francisco, as before described.
Few are more extensive or could be as readily defended as it; w^hile
the combined fleets of all the naval powers of Europe might moor in
it. This is, how^ever, the only really good harbour which this country
possesses; for the others so called may be frequented only during the

0

158 CALIFORNIA,

fine season, being nothing more than roadsteads, affording little safely
and but few supplies to vessels.

Among these bays are that of Monterey, the capital of Upper Cali-
fornia, and that of Santa Barbara and San Pedro. The two last are
partly protected from the swell of the Pacific Ocean by the islands
that cover them. They are, however, but seldom used, there being
comparatively little trade upon all this coast; for the hides and tallow
which formerly abounded and made the business profitable for vessels,
are no longer to be procured. The destruction of the missions, and
the onerous laws, duties, and prohibitions, have nearly destroyed the
little traffic that once existed, and it is now all transferred to the bay
of San Francisco. There a few hulks may be seen lying, furnished
with every needful article: these keep up an illicit intercourse by the
connivance of the officers of the customs, by whose cupidity the revenue
laws are openly infringed, and what of right belongs to the government,
goes to enrich the governor and his officers.

The principal articles imported, are cotton cloths, velvet, silks,
brandies, wines, teas, &c. ; in return for which they receive hides and
tallow, skins, wheat, and salmon. The attention of the inhabitants has
been principally directed to the raising of cattle, and the greater part
of the wealth of California maybe considered as consisting of live-stock.
The exportations, on the average of years, are about one hundred and
fifty thousand hides, and two hundred thousand arrobas of tallow. The
standard price for the former is two dollars, while the latter is worth
one dollar and fifty cents the arroba. A few beaver-skins are obtained,
which do not exceed two thousand, and are valued at two dollars
apiece. From four to five hundred sea-otter skins are brought in
by the American hunters, which are valued at thirty dollars each.
Wheat has been exported to the Russian posts, to the amount of
twelve thousand bushels, of which the average price is about fifty
cents a bushel. Of late, however, it has risen to two dollars and
fifty cents, in consequence of the great drought that has prevailed.
Among the exports may be also enumerated about three thousand elk
and deer skins, which are valued at from fifty cents to a dollar each.
The whole merchantable products may be estimated at less than a

million of dollars.

The yield of wheat is remarkable, and in some places, where the
land is well situated, very large returns are received. Mr. Spears, of
Yerba Buena, informed me that he had delivered to an active Ameri-
can farmer thirty bushels of wheat for seed, at a time when it was
difficult to procure it, under an agreement that he should have the

i

CALIFORNIA. I59

refusal of the crop at the market price. In the July following, he de
livcrcd him three thousand bushels, and on its delivery, he found that

the fanner had reserved six hundred bushels for himself; and this,
without estimating the loss from bad reaping and treading out with
horses, would give one hundred and twenty for one. This is not con-
sidered a fair criterion or average, as the land was remarkable for its
richness and was w^ell attended to; but Mr. Spears and several others
assured me that the average would be as high as eighty bushels yielded
for one planted.

Indian corn yields well, as also potatoes, beans, and peas. The cul-
tivation of vegetables is increasing rapidly, and supplies in these latter
articles may be had in abundance and of the finest quality.

The country appears to be well adapted for grapes. Those that
have been tried at the missions yield most abundantly; and about two
hundred casks, each of eighteen gallons, of brandy, and the same quan-
tity of w^ine, are made. The cultivation of the grape increases yearly,
but is not sufficient for the supply of the country, as large quantities of
foreign wines and liquors are imported, w^hich pay an enormous duty;
and although California may not boast of its dense population, every
intelligent person I met with agreed that it consumed more spirits in
proportion than any other part of the world. Brandy sells for sixty to
seventy dollars the cask, or four dollars a gallon, while the price of
wine is only eighteen dollars. The wine of the country which I tasted
is miserable stuff, and w^ould scarcely be taken for the juice of the
grape.

The salmon-fishery, if attended to, w^ould be a source of considerable
profit, yet I was told that the Californians never seem disposed to
attempt to take them. The general opinion is, that they are too indo-
lent to bestir themselves, and they naturally choose the employment
which gives them the least trouble. Above every thing, the rearing
of cattle requires the least labour in this country, for it is only neces-
) sary to provide keepers and have their cattle marked. This done, they

can support themselves by the increase of the stock. At the missions,
the manufacture of various coarse articles had been undertaken by the
missionaries as a step in the education of the neophytes. Among these
were blankets and wearing apparel sufficient to supply all the Indians;
but, with the decline of these establishments, the manufactures have in
) great part been discontinued. Soap of a good quality is manufactured

in considerable quantities, and it is thought that it might be exported
at a profit, if the proper arrangements were made to use the grease
that is now thrown aw^ay. The necessary alkali is very abundant.
Leather of an excellent quality is also made and well tanned, but in

160 CALIFORNIA.

such small quantities as to be hardly sufficient to supply the wants oi
the country.

There are in CaUfornia only two or three water-mills for grinding
flour, and these are owned by foreigners. The mills in general use in
the country, ai'e composed of no more than two burr-stones. To the
upper stone a cross-beam is secured, to which mule-power is applied.
In most of the estancias there is to be found a mill in an apartment
adjoining the kitchen, if not in it. The whole is as primitive as well
can be, although I have no doubt it answers all the wants of this rude
.and indolent people.

From all accounts, besides cattle, the country is well adapted for
the raising of sheep, which simply require watching, as they can find
plenty of nutritious food the whole year round ; but there has been no
attention paid to this sort of stock, and the wool is of very ordinary
quality. The mutton is thought to be of very fine flavour. The usual
price for a sheep is from one dollar and fifty cents to two dollars, when
a choice is made for killing.

Hogs are raised in some parts, and might be fed to great advantage
on the acorns which are abundant on the hills where the land is not
susceptible of cultivation. Pork may be packed at three dollars the
hundred- weight. What adds to the facility of doing this business, is
the fact that large quantities of salt collect in the ponds in the dry
season, which may be obtained for the expense of carting it.

As respects trade, it may be said there is scarcely any, for it is so
interrupted, and so much under the influence of the governor and the
officers of the customs, that those attempting to carry on any under the
forms usual elsewhere, would probably find it a losing business.
Foz'eigners, however, contrive to evade this by keeping their vessels at
anchor, and selling a large portion of their cargoes from on board.
Great partiality is shown to those of them who have a full understand-
ing with his excellency the governor; and from what I was given to
understand, if this be not secured, the traders are liable to exactions
and vexations without number. The enormous duties, often amounting;
to eighty per cent, ad valorem, cause much dissatisfiiction on the part
of the consumers : the whole amount raised is about two hundred
thousand dollars per annum, w^hich is found barely sufficient to pay the
salaries of the officers, and defray tfie costs of the government feasts,
which are frequent, and usually cost a thousand dollars each. These
emoluments are shared among the heads of departments at Monterey,
whilst the soldiers are often for months without their pay, and are
made to take it in whatever currency it may suit the government to
give. Besides the above duties, there is a municipal tax on many

CALIFORXIA. 161

f
f

things : thus, a dollar is demanded on every gallon of spirits imported ;
fifty cents on each beaver or otter skin, and on other articles in the
same ratio. Next come the church tithes, which are enormous. I
heard of a farmer who was made to pay one hundred and ninety
dollars as the tithe on his produce, although he lives far removed from
either church or priest. All these things are bringing the government
into great disrepute, and the governor is every day becoming more and
more unpopular; so much so, that his orders hav^e not been complied
with, and have been treated with contempt, particularly when he desires
to recruit his forces. A short time before our arrival, he sent a list to
a pueblo of the young men to be drafted as soldiers; when it was
received, they in a body refused to go, and sent back the disrespectful
and defying message, that he might come and take them.

Nothing can be in a worse state than the lower offices, such as the
alcaldes, &c. They are now held by ignorant men, who have no

ideas of justice, w^hich is generally administered according to the
alcalde's individual notions, as his feelings may be enlisted, or the
standing of the parties. To recover a debt by legal means, is consi-
dered as beyond a possibility, and creditors must wait until the debtor
is disposed to pay. Fortunately, and to the honour of the country, a
just claim is rarely or never denied; and, until lately, the word of a
Californian was sufficient to insure the payment of claims on him; but,
such has been the moral degradation to which the people have fallen
since the missions have been robbed by the authorities, and the old
priests driven out, that no reliance can be placed now upon their
promises, and all those who have of late trusted theai, complain that
engagements ai'e not regarded, and that it is next to impossible to
obtain any returns for goods that have been delivered. Tlie state of
the country is, however, some excuse, as it has been impossible for any
one to make calculations under the existing anarchv and confusion.

It was at first believed that the revolution which took place in
November 1836, w^ould result in much immediate good to those who
effected it; but such has not been the case. Foreigners unquestionably
performed a large part in planning and carrying the change out ; yet
none have suffered so much by it as they have.

Much of this derangement of busmess has grown out of the state of
the country for the last twenty years; and, ahhough its history is of
little importance, a succinct sketch of it may not be wholly devoid of
interest. The facts are derived both from Californian and Mexican
authorities, as well as from iVmericans; and, although the accounts
frequently differ in some particulars, yet as to the main points they
agree-

VOL. V. 0 2 21

162 CALIFORNIA.

Previous to the year of the revolution by which CaHfornia was sepa-
rated from old Spain (1823), the w^holo country may be said to have
been under the rule of the missions, and the padres who were at their
head had acquired a vast influence over the Indians, as well as amongst
the soldiery w^ho were placed in the presidios as the guards and pro-
tectors of the missions. There were twenty-one missions, and only
four presidios. The power of the governors w^as usually rather nominal
than real, and the troops, from being totally neglected, were dependent
upon the missions almost for their daily bread. Fortunately for the
country, the padres and rulers of the missions were men well adapted
for their calling: good managers, sincere Christians, they exerted a
salutary influence over all in any way connected with them, practising
at the same time the proper virtues of their calling, in order more
effectually to inculcate them upon others. These reverend men were

all old Spaniards, and greatly attached to their king and country. When

the revolution broke out, they declined taking the oath to the new
government : many, in consequence, left their missions and retired from
the country, and some of the others have since died.

Thus, at the same time w4th a change of rulers, the country was
deprived of the religious establishments upon which its society and good
order w^ere founded. Anarchy and confusion began to reign, and the
want of authority was every w^here felt. Some of the missions were
deserted; the property which had been amassed in themw^as dissipated,
and the Indians turned off to seek their native wilds.

At the time of the separation from Spain, a Californian, by name
Arguello, was governor. On his being appointed to that office, one
Noniga, a Spanish officer, disliking to be commanded by a Californian,
attempted to oppose him. In order to silence this opposition, Noniga
was put in command of the presidio of Santa Barbara, where, owing
to his misconduct, he was soon dismissed, upon which he again sought
to excite the Mexicans against the Californians, and to impress them
w^th the same deadly hatred W'hich he himself felt. With this intent,
he omitted no opportunity to represent the actions and conduct of the
Californian authorities in the most odious light.

The government of Mexico saw the evils that they had occasioned,
when it was too late, and set about remedying them, as well as to fill
the vacancies that had occurred. For this purpose, they were disposed
to consult the old padres, and offered those who remained, the choice
of the northern or southern section, that they might be united in a body.
The old Spanish priests chose the southern missions ; and the few esta-
blishments which lie to the north of San Miguel, were assigned to those
from the coUesre of Xacatecas, in Mexico.

o

CALIFORNIA. 163

By this time the supreme government became convinced that althougli
they had apparently adopted the best mode of palliating the injury the
missions had received, vet it had served ratlier to increase the diffi-
culty. The new Mexican priests were in every way inferior to the old
Spaniards, neither possessing their intelligence, their skill in governing,
their correct principles, nor their dignity of deportment ; in short, they
were totally unfit for tlieir situation.

In 1825, the supreme government appointed Don Jose Echandia, a
Mexican, to succeed Arguello as governor; and he gave universal
satisfaction, till 1829, when a revolt took place among the Californians
and Indians in the garrison of Monterey, in consequence of their not
receiving the arrears of pay that were due them. The governor, with
becoming energy, put down this disturbance, and restored order.

In 1831, Echandia was succeeded by Don Manuel Victoria, who
changed the whole policy of his predecessor. He became at once,
from his tyrannical conduct, extremely unpopular, and in the first year
of his administration was so several v wounded in a skirmish at Los
Angelos, as to be incapable of continuing in the command. The in-
surrection, of which this skirmish was an incident, was the most serious

that had occurred.

believed

to the aid which the foreigners gave the Californians: this was the first
time the former had interfered with the affairs of the country.

After this event, General Figueroa, who was sent to rule over Upper
California, by his mild yet firm deportment, reconciled opinions, and
put down all opposition. His administration is still spoken of as
having been conducted with great ability and moderation. By his
recommendation, the supreme government had sent out a colony of two
hundred labourers and agriculturists, of which the country v^as much
in want, to Monterey ; but instead of their being what Figueroa had
asked for, or such as was reported to have been sent, they turned out
to be mere idlers, who had been living at the public expense. The
arrival of this colony produced the most unhappy eflfects, and with
them arose an enmity between the Californians and Mexicans, that has
acquired additional acrimony from the favour shown the latter hy the
succeeding governors. Figueroa died in 1835, greatly regretted by
all : his death proved a great loss to the country, foVt had he lived,
things would probably have turned out favourably.

Colonel Chico, the next in command, succeeded Figueroa, but was
ill-suited for the situation, and the contrast between him and his pre-
decessor was too perceptible for him to give satisfaction ; his conduct
towards the inhabitants tended to increase the unfavourable impressions
he had first made. It was not long before a dispute arose between

164 CALIFORNIA.

him and the supreme judge of the district, upon the question as to
which of them the chief authority belonged. Parties became very
violent, and Chico determined to put down all opposition by military
force. This course gave great dissatisfaction, and coupled with his
arbitrary conduct towards the inhabitants and the missions, created a
determination to resist him if he did not resign. A letter was written
to him to that effect, upon which he felt himself compelled to deliver
over the reins of government into the hands of a successor, to avoid
the difficulties and dangers to which he would otherwise have been
liable.

The next in command w^as Don Nicolas Gutierez, a lieutenant-
colonel : under this officer tranquillity was apparently restored for a
time.

During the preceding years, many foreigners had settled in Cali-
fornia, who had taken a part in its aflfairs. These included natives of
all countries; and among them were to be found Americans, who had
ted the lives of hunters and trappers, some of whom had been living in
the Rocky Mountains, and on the Columbia river, whilst others had
come from Mexico, These persons were naturally of a restless dispo-
sition, and disposed to engage in any thing that would produce excite-
ment; bold and reckless in their disposition, tl)ey could not remain
quiet under the turn things w^ere taking in California, and they now^
joined and instigated the party opposed to the governor. They argued '
that California ought to form itself into a free state, by declaring its
independence of Mexico, which had not the power to govern it. At
that time any plausible arguments had weight with so ignorant a people
as the Californians, and this idea was rendered acceptable by the ill-
will they bore the Mexicans, and the obvious want of legitimate power.
The project of overturning the government was also entertained by
those w^ho had previously held office, and particularly by the adminis-
trador of the customs, Ramicrez, and Cosme Penn^, a drunken lawyer,
who was the assessor. They were both Mexicans by birth, and be-
longed to the ultra liberals. With them was joined the inspector,
Alvarado, who w^as extremely popular with the foreigners. The two
former, knowing the ignorance that prevailed among the Californians,
constituted themselves leaders, and expected, in the event of any
change, to be benefited by it; but at the same time they looked with
some degree of mistrust and jealousy upon the foreigners resident there.

Under such circumstances, the least difficulty was sufficient to bring
about a revolution, and it w^as not long before one occurred that caused
an outbreak, and ended in the overthrow of the authorities. About the
beginning of November 1836, a dispute arose between the governor

I

I

CALIFORNIA. 165

and Alvarado, the inspector of the customs, ^vho was threatened with
arrest. The popularity of Alvarado with the foreigners caused them

[ at once to take a warm interest in his behalf; and, without inquiring

into the right or wrong of the business, they espoused his cause. Alva-
rado fled to the country, and raised the standard of revolt in the pueblo
of San Juan, some leagues from Monterey. The people of California

J being naturally lazy, ignorant, and indifferent, required some strong

stimulus to arouse them ; but this was effected, and in consequence of
the dissoluteness of the priesthood, and the loss of clerical influence
with the lower orders, which ten years of their bad management of the
missions had brought about, they were quite unable to restrain the
people. It ha3 even been alleged that they favoured the design, in
order to have a change, and avoid the heavy exactions that had been
made upon them of late by the governor. Be this so or not, there was
either no exertion made by the clergy in favour of the government, or
their power was too insignificant to be effective.

The people were easily persuaded that a shameful misappropriation
of public funds had taken place, and that the robbery of the missions
was still going on. The discovery that Chico, who, as has been
stated, was forced to resign in favour of the then governor, had de-
frauded the troops of their pay, and the missions of twenty thousand
dollars, satisfied every one that such embezzlement was going on, and
furnished a powerful incentive to many to join the standard of Alva-
rado. He was now acting under the advice and by the directions of
the foreigners, who declared their intentions to be — 1st. To hoist a
new flag, and declare California independent of Mexico, 2d. To banish
all Mexicans. 3d. That California should be declared an independent
stale ; and 4th. That all foreigners then under arms, or who took part
in the revolution, should be declared citizens. These declarations,
although they had the desired effect, were evidently made rather to
satisfy the foreigners than to please the natives, and are supposed to
have emanated from the administrador Ramierez, and Peimd. These
men, the most able of the Californians, were desirous to make use of
the foreigners to gain their own ends, in which they so far succeeded,
that although the foreigners were, in regard to fighting, the prominent
actors in the revolution, the result proved that they were but tools em-
ployed to gain the ulterior ends of these two designing persons.

Alvarado was now directed to move forward towards Monterey,
which from all accounts he was of himself unwilling to do; but the

\

directors of his movements impelled him forward. Who these were,
is not well known ; but the presumption is, that various citizens of the
United States, as well as of England, advised and gave him promises

166 CALIFORNIA.

of aid.

M

terey; it consisted of about two hundred men-, of whom twenty-five

were American hunters, the only part of his force that was effective.

Some accounts give a smaller number, and state it at less than half of

this. Gutierez, believing the Presidio impregnable, shut himself up in

it with about one hundred and seventy persons, sixty of whom were
regular soldiers.

The Presidio was at once invested, the beach taken possession of,
and a communication opened with several American vessels then lying
in the bay. The energy and activity exhibited by Alvarado's party
indicated that their movements were directed by others than Spaniards
or Californians.

^ Gutierez seems to have proved himself weak and imbecile in allow-
ing these advantages to be obtained without making any endeavours
to attack the insurgents. It is said, however, (and his actions certainly
give some countenance to the idea,) that the dread in which the Ameri-
can hunters were held by himself and men, prevented his making any
effective effort : in fact, their fame for skill in the use of the rifle was
known and duly appreciated.

On the 3d, the insurgents w^ere found to be in possession of some
cannon, which they established on a neighbouring height, and were
amply supplied with ammunition. As it was known that neither
arms of this kind nor gunpow^der were on shore, there is little doubt
that they obtained them from the vessels in the bay ; and those who
w^ere likely to reap the most advantage from a change in the admi-
nistration of affairs, were suspected of aiding the insurgents with the
means that rendered them, in point of equipment, superior to their
adversaries-

On the 4th, Gutierez received an official letter, demanding the
surrender of the Presidio and every thing in it. Previous to this, he
had determined to resist until the last; but on inquiry, he found that
various means had been used to win over the soldiers, who were
already disaffected on account of the arrearages of pay due to them.
To capitulate was now the only thing to be done; but it was neces-
sary for him to call a council of his officers and deliberate upon the
terms offered, or submit to the place being stormed. It is said that
this council w^ore away the whole night, in propositions how they
could avoid a surrender or obtain relief, without coming to any con-
clusion.

At dawn on the 5th, their hunter adversaries becoming impatient
at the delay, fired an eighteen-pound ball, which struck the centre of
the roof of the Presidio, directly over the apartment where the council

CALIFORNIA. 167

was held. This messenger brought them to a quick decision, and in a
few minutes a flag of truce was sent out, surrendering unconditionally.
At ten o'clock, the deputation which had been appointed, consist-
ing of Alvarado, Castro, and two ignorant Rancheros, marched in
with their force, accompanied, it is said, by some American masters
of vessels who were in port. Gutierez and his followers laid down
their arms and accepted the stipulations; which were a guarantee of
life to himself and officers, and that those who chose mi£[ht either
remain in the country or be suffered to depart. The Mexican flag
was now hauled down; when the courage of Alvarado and the deputa-
tion failed them, and they refused to hoist the flag of California, which
had been prepared for the occasion, and was then ready to be dis-
played, without first holding a council. This was supposed to be
done through the advice of Ramierez and Cosme Penne, who now
found that the affair had reached the point they desired, and that it
was necessary to prevent any further act in favour of the foreigners.
The council was accordingly held, and Miguel Ramierez and Cosme
Penne were both allowed to be present. The four articles of declara-
tions formally made, and that hav^e been above recited, w^ere read ovei
for the purpose of being considered and adopted ; when these two
stated it was not according to their understanding of the plan agreed
upon: that it was not to declare the country altogether free and inde-
pendent of Mexico, but only until the constitution of 1824 should be
established. Upon this, the members of the deputation, who were per-
fectly ignorant of their duties or business, simply answered: " WelK
very well; it is just what we wanted: some persons who have longer
heads than any of us to put us in the right way and help us better out
of the scrape we hav^e got into." Don Cosme immediately took advan-
taeje of this, and crave the watchword, "Viva California libre» y muerte

^w v.* ^, .« ^

a la centralism !" — upon which the Mexican flag was again hoisted.
This produced much dissatisfaction among the foreigners, and the fear
of them prevented Ramierez and Cosme Penne from going farther.
In the selection of ofHcers, Alvarado was nominated as governor,
by Castro ; General Vallejo, as commandant-general ; Castro, as lieu-
tenant-colonel of the militia; and the inebriate Cosme Penne, as secre-
tary of state.

This proved satisfactory to the foreigners, although it was not what
they wished: but the^act removing one-half the duties was still more so.

It was soon determined that the Mexicans ou^ht to be removed at
once out of the country, notwithstanding the stipulations of the sur-
render to the contrary. Accordingly, the British brig Clementine was

L

chartered, in which Gutierez and all his officers, with a lar^e number

I

168 CALIFORNIA.

of his men, were embarked, and ordei^ed to be landed at Cape San
Lucas, the southern point of Lower California.

Thus in a few days were the authorities changed, without a single
gun being fired but the one above spoken of, and without any blood-
shed whatever. At the tin:ie of despatching the Clementine, Alvarado,
with the advice of Cosme and Ramierez, purchased a snr^all schooner,
and sent her at once to a port in Mexico to inforn^ the supreme govern-
ment of every thing that had taken place, adding that they were willing
to remain in allegiance, if they were allowed to choose their own
officers. In the mean time they sent commissioners to demand that
the other presidios should be given up, and that the inhabitants should
acknowledge the authority of those who had overturned the govern-
ment. This the officers and inhabitants refused to do, upon which
Alvarado marched against Santa Barbara with his rancheros, for the
hunters had, for the most part, left him. He was met by a superior
force, commanded by a former deputy, named Castillo; but the schooner
returned previous to hostilities being commenced, bringing not only a
confirmation of the appointment of Alvarado and the others, but with a
supply of arms, ammunition, and clothing for the troops, to the amount
of ten thousand dollars. When this became known, Castillo and
Alvarado became friends, the former acknowledging the authority ot
the latter, while Alvarado, it is said, took the oath of allegiance to
the central government.

M

o

firmly established in his new office, and having been by this caprice of
fortune raised above his deserts, he became arrogant to his countrymen,
and alienated the foreigners by whom he had been assisted.
. It will scarcely be necessary to say, that by this time the missions
had lost all their control over the community. The government had
seized upon their lands, and appointed an administradorto take charge
of the property (which had been decided under an old Spanish law to
belong to the government), as well as to rule over the Indians. From
the priests were thus removed all further responsibilities and duties,
except those strictly clerical. This act brought about the ruin of the
missions- The moral and religious usefulness of the priests had been
destroyed before, and now the property that was still left became a
prey to the rapacity of the governor, the needy officers, and the ad-
ministrador, who have well-nigh consumed all Some of the missions,
that had from forty to eighty thousand head of cattle, are now left with
less than two thousand, and are literally going to ruin. They are no
more what they once were, the pride of the padres, and the seat of the

prosperity of the country. Moreo

o

CALIFORNIA- lOf)

has left the whole community destitute of any moral guide whatever,
and without any sort of religious observance, except by a few indi-
viduals past the middle age. Alvarado and General Vallejo have the
reputation of being foremost in producing tfiis state of things.

After a short time, it was found that the customs did not produce the
required revenue; and the new government, fearing to tax the people
and missions too openly, resorted to a renewal of the double duties,
before more than two vessels had touched on the coast. Every day
produced some restrictions upon the foreigners, who had now become
estranged from the existing government that they had assisted to
establish. Alvarado, finding his acts disapproved of by them, grew
suspicious and jealous of their presence ; for he well knew^, from the
manner of his own elevation, what an effective body they were.

This state of things continued until the month of April, 1840, when
Alvarado, anticipating an insurrectionary movement, and know^ing the
confidence that the aid of the forei<^ners would o:ive the malcontent
Californians, determined to rid the territory of them. For the purpose
of obtaining some colour for the violence he intended, an Englishman,
by the name of Gardner, was found, who deposed that all the foreigners,
from San Francisco to San Diego, or from one extreme of California
to the other, a distance of six or seven hundred miles, had conspired
to murder the governor and take possession of the country : that an

American, by the name of Graham, a trapper from the state of
Kentucky, was their leader; and that they w^ere to rendezvous, for the
purpose, at Nativetes, the residence of Graham, Colonel Castro was
accordingly sent thither, with the prefect, tw^o inferior officers, and
fifteen armed soldiers- They proceeded to Nativetes, which is about
twenty miles from Monterey ; but, as they well knew that Graham was
a resolute, strong, and brave man, it was necessary to take great pre-
cautions. They therefore chose midnight for their attack, at which
hour they reached his farm. On their arrival they forced open the
door, and at once fired a volley into the bed w^here he lay asleep, and
so close to it that they set fire to his blankets. Graham was w^ounded
in several places, and badly burnt.

On being thus awakened, he attempted to defend himself, but was
overpowered by numbers, inhumanly beaten, and then tied hand and
foot, A working-man, who attended the cattle with him, by the
name of Shard, also an American, w^as held down by two nrien while
a third deliberately cut the tendons of his legs with a butcher's knife,

r

and left him to die* Graham was then tied upon a horse, and carried
to Monterey, where he was loaded with irons, and placed in a filthy
cell:— torn from the property he had accumulated, amounting to four
VOL. V. P 22

170 CALIFORNIA.

or five thousand dollars in specie, and about ten thousand dollars in
cattle, which he had reared and bought, through his own industry :
this, it is supposed, fell into the hands of the governor, who was much
in w^ant of funds at the time, and could conceive of no way by which
his coffers could be so readily replenished as by such a wholesale
robbery.

After the arrest of Graham, more than sixty foreigners were taken
up immediately, put into irons, and cast into prison with him. At the
same time, orders w^ere issued to apprehend every foreigner found
upon the coast, and in case of their not giving bonds for their appear-
ance, they were to be thrust into prison.

Forty-seven of these men were embarked in a vessel called the
Guipuzcoa, loaded with irons, nearly half of whom are said to have
been citizens of the United States. One of these died from the treat-
ment he received; and the hardships they were obliged to undergo on
their journey to Tepic, are almost past belief.

The Guipuzcoa was eleven days on her passage to San Bias, during
which time the prisoners w^ere kept in the hold of this small vessel,
without light or air, and endured every description of ill treatment.
On their arrival at San Bias, they were landed without delay, and
immediately marched, in the short space of two days, to Tepic, a
distance of sixty miles.

The thermometer w-as at 90^; the road was mountainous and rough;
they were barefooted, heavily ironed, and without any food, except
w^hat was given them from charity. They were urged forward by
lashes inflicted on their naked bodies, and one who sank under the
fatigue was severely beaten with the but-end of a musket.

At Tepic, they found in the English and American consuls kind
friends, who exerted themselves to relieve their wants, and finally,
throush their remonstrances, and those of the Enjislish and American

ministers, they w-ere allowed to return to California ; and orders were
given that they should produce certificates of their losses, and be paid
for them. All the Englishmen have returned, with every necessary
document to establish their claims, and obtain redress for their wrono^s :
but on the part of the Americans, this is far from being the case. Of
them none but Graham have returned, and he is broken both in health

and spirits. What

not learn ;

but the French and English have all obtained indemnity, through the
attention their governments have paid to their wrongs- Ours alone
has failed in the prompt protection of its citizens ; and many com-
plaints are made by our countrymen abroad that the government at
home seems to have very little regard for their lives or property.

1

CALIFORNIA. 171

It would appear by this want of attention on the part of our govern-
ment, that it had not been fully satisfied that the conduct of its citizens
had been correct; at least, that is the feelin^r amon;; them abroad. I

o "*'*'^*'o

have little testimony on this subject, except the protestations of many
of those who have been more or less suspected of taking part in the
expected revolt. 1 can say, that all the accounts I received invariably
spoke of the foreigners as having had notliing to do with the intended
outbreak, even if it were organized; and every one should be satisfied
that they were innocent, by the fact that in Mexico they w^ere all
adjudged to be entirely guiltless of the charges brought against them,
and that they were sent back at the expense of the Mexican govern-
ment, with letters of security, and an order making it obligatory on the
Governor of California to assist them in procuring evidence of the
damages they had sustained. Although this may have been ample
satisfaction, so far as mere remuneration goes, yet for the barbarous
conduct shown to them by the authorities, some punishment ought
to have been inflicted, and an example made. But such has not been
the case, and those officers are still kept in their high places, w^th the
powder to repeat like barbarities. There is no other way to account
for this not being Insisted upon, than by supposing that the Mexicans
hold so little authority over this territory as to make them extremely
scrupulous how they take any measures that may cause the dismem-
berment of the state, and the loss of even the nominal dominion they
now possess.

The situation of Upper California will cause its separation from
Mexico before many years. The country between it and Mexico can
never be any thing but a barren waste, which precludes all intercourse
except that by sea, always more or less interrupted by the course of
the winds, and the unhealthfulness of the lower or seaport towns of
Mexico. It is very probable that this country will become united
with Oregon, with which it will perhaps form a state that is destined
to control the destinies of the Pacific. This future state is admirablv
situated to become a powerful maritime nation, with two of the finest
ports in the world, — that within the straits of Juan de Fuca, and
San Francisco. These two regions have, in fact, wuthin themselves
every thing to make them increase, and keep up an intercourse with
the whole of Polynesia, as well as the countries of South America on
the one side, and China, the Philippines, New Holland, and New Zea-
land, on the other. Among the latter, before many years, may be
included Japan. Such various climates will furnish the materials for
a beneficial interchange of products, and an intercourse that must, in '
time, become immense; while this western coast, enjoying a climate

172 CALIFORNIA.

in many respects superior to any other in the Pacific, possessed as it
must be by the Anglo-Norman race, and having none to enter into
rivalry with it but the indolent inhabitants of warm climates, is evi*
dently destined to fill a large space in the world's future history.

Although I have already spoken of the Indians, yet in order to make
the state of the country fully understood, it is necessary to explain their
former connexion with the missions, as well as their present condition.

The Indians who were brought into the fold of the missions, were

r

either induced through persuasion, by force, or enticed by presents : the
agreement, or rather law, was, that they should be converted to Chris-
tianity; and for this benefit conferred upon them, they were to give ten
years' faithful service, after which time they were to be at liberty, and
to hav^e allotted to them a small piece of land for cultivation, and a few
cattle, provided they could get the security of any respectable person
for their good behaviour. This seldom happened ; but their treatment
was much more kind after the expiration of their term of service, and
they usually remained in the employ of the missions, having become
attached to their masters and occupations. These chiefly consisted in
taking care of cattle, the work of the farm, gardening, and household
duties. Some became carpenters and blacksmiths ; others weavers,

shoemakers, and manufacturers of leather; and some were let out to

private service to " gente de razon,'' or people of reason, as the whites
are termed. The police of the missions was strict, and punishment was
administered when required ; but then revt^ards for good behaviour were
also given, as w^ell as for bringing in neophytes. In the latter way, it
is said that the missions were usually recruited.

During the troubles of 1836, the Indians of many of the missions
were cast oflf neglected, and in fact deprived of the proceeds of their
labour. They had reason to believe, as had been impressed upon them
by the Spanish padres, that they were interested in the proceeds and
w^ealth that had been accumulated by their labour; and this belief had
naturally tended to attach them to the soil.

The ravages of the small-pox, two years prior to our visit, completed
the destruction of these establishments; for it swept off one-half of the
Indians, and served to dispirit the rest. Many of them have joined the
wild Indians, and are now committing acts of violence on the whites;
they are becoming daily more daring, and have rendered a residence
in single farm-houses or estancias not without danger. In looking at
the state in which these poor Indians hav^e been left, it cannot be denied
but that they have cause to be dissatisfied with the treatment they have

received.

Every mission was regarded as a separate family of Indians, and

i

9

CALIFORNIA. 173

some of these included twelve hundred individuals. During the n^anage-
ment of the Spanish priests, every thing was judiciously conducted : the
Indians were well dressed, well fed, and happy ; out of their earnings
the priests were able to buy annually ten thousand dollars' worth of
articles for their wants and gratification, from the vessels trading upon
the coast. Each mission formed a body politicof itself, having its own
alcalde, inferior officers, &c., and every thing went on prosperously*
The Indians, though at first disinclined to work, soon became indus-
trious, when they found the benefits and advantages that accrued to
themselves, and becan^e converts to Christianity, so far as forms went,
in order to entitle them to its presents. It is not surprising that a rapid
increase of wealth took place, considering the number of labourers in
the field, added to a rich soil and fine climate.

As has been before stated, in 1835, orders from the supreme govern-
ment w-ere issued, administradors were appointed to each mission, and
the priests were deprived of their sway, leaving them only their clerical
duties to attend to, W'ith a small stipend. So far as they were person-
ally concerned, this was deserved ; for, with but one or two exceptions,
their lives were entirely opposite to what they ought to have been; they
were openly and publicly dissolute. The administradors have made
themselves and those by whom they were appointed, rich upon the
Spoils of these missions ; and so great have been the drafts upon some
of these missions, that they have not been able to support their
neophytes- The mission of San Jose, for
our visit, was obliged to order oflffive hundred of its proselytes, to pro-
cure their subsistence as they best could. These acts seem to be com-
u)itted without any kind of consideration, or idea that there is any
injustice practised: the property acquired by the missions is looked
upon as belonging to the state; the claims of the Indians are entirely
overlooked, and in the event of their taking the cattle that in truth
belong to them, they are severely punished. This naturally irritates
them, for not only can they perceive the injustice of others appropri*
ating the fruits of their labour, but are exasperated by seeing them
living upon the common stock, while they are obliged to seek a preca-
rious subsistence in the forest.

In consequence of this state of things, depredations are continually
committed by the Indians; and, a month previous to the arrival of
the squadron, they had driven off three hundred horses. Retaliatory
measures on the part of the Californians were adopted ; a party was
collected and despatched to punish them, which proceeded tow^ards
the interior, came to a village, and without any inquiry whether its
dwellers had been the aggressors, it was set on fire, and reduced to

P2

instance

174 CALIFORNIA.

ashes; some of the defenceless old men, who from their infirmities
could not escape, were put to death, and forty or fifty women and
children carried off* as prisoners. This was not all: these prisoners
were apportioned as slaves to various families, with whom they still
remain in servitude^ and receive very harsh treatment. Smarting
under such wrongs, it is not surprising that the Indians should reta-
liate. They openly assert that after taking all the horses, they will
commence with families ; and many of those which are situated on
the frontiers, experience much alarm. In June 1841, an Englishman
was shot by an arrow at the door of his house, early in the evening.
The Indians enticed him out by making a noise near by, and the
moment he opened the door, with a candle in his hand, an arrow was
sent through his heart.

The Indians at present rarely steal any thing but horses ; but so
daring are they, that they not unfrequently take them out of the
enclosures near the pueblos. Their reason for confining themselves to
this description of property is, that with them they are able to avoid
pursuit, which would not be the case if they took cattle. The Cali-
fornians, on detecting and apprehending the aggressors, show them no
mercy, and their lives are made the forfeit- This constant foray on
one side or the other keeps up a continual embitterment, and as long
as the present imbecile government lasts, this state of things must everv
day grow worse, and will undoubtedly tend to affect the value of
property, as well as to prevent immigration, and settlement in the
country.

To all strangers but those of the Spanish race, the Indians seem in
general well disposed, as they have usually received from the former
considerate and kind treatment. The character of these Indians is
not represented as savage, and they were little disposed to trouble the
whites until they had been themselves ejected from the missions, and
forced to consort with those who are yet in a wild state. The know-
ledge they have of the Californians, of the missionary establishments,
and the manner of conducting them, enables them to act more
effectively; and if it were not for the presence of the English and
Americans, they would either drive the Spanish race out of the countrv,
or confine them to the narrow limits of their villages.

The number of Indians is variously stated, at from twelve to fifteen
thousand ; but it is believed by some of the best informed, that their
number, since the smaI!-pox made its ravages among them, is not
much more than one-half of this number, or eight or nine thousand.
The principal part of these are the tribes on the Sacramento.

In like manner, there has been an exaggeration in the computation

CALIFORNIA. I75

I

of the number of the wliites, or gente de razon- These have been

usually estimated at five thousand ; but, from the best information, I
could not satisfy myself that they number more than three thousand
souls. In this estimate is not included those of mixed blood, who may
amount to two thousand more; so that in the whole of Upper California,
at the date of our visit, the entire population was about fifteen thousand
souls; and this estimate cannot be far from the truth.

The health and robustness of the white inhabitants seem remark*
able, and must be attributed to the fine climate, as well as to their
simple diet. This consists of beef roasted upon the coals, a few vege-
tables, and the tortilla, wiiich is a thin cake, made of corn-meal, and
baked upon a sheet of iron. Throughout the country, both with the
rich and poor, this is the general fare; but some few luxuries have
been lately introduced, among which are rice and tea. The latter is
used so sparingly, that the discoloration of the water is scarcely per-
ceptible. At the missions they live more after the Spanish Hishion.
The children are, for the most part, left to take care of themselves, and
run about naked and dirty. They are generally robust, and their
relative number seems to be very great; thus, it is by no means un-
common to see families of fourteen or fifteen children ; and an instance
was mentioned to me of a woman near Yerba Buena, who had had
twenty-six. A large number die from accidental falls from horses,
with which from their earliest childhood they are accustomed to be
engaged. They early become expert and fearless riders, and this skill
is not confined altogether to the male sex; the women are almost
equally expert. Families with numerous members are seldom met
with who have not had to mourn the loss of several of their number

from casualties of this sort.

Although the Californians are comparatively few in number, yet
they have a distinctive character. Descended from the old Spaniards,
they are unfortunately found to have all their vices, without a proper
share of their virtues; they are exceedingly fond of gambling, w^hich is
equally in favour with the male and female portion of the community.
Their games consist in cards, dice, &c.

Their amusements are cock-fighting, bull and bear-baiting, and
dancing; these are the predominant occupations of their lives, always
accompanied with excessive drinking. Parties of amusement, to w^hich
the surrounding population is invited, are frequent ; these generally last
for three days, and rarely break up without some quarrel. Weddings
are particularly liable to these disorders, and at each of the three last
that took place at and in the vicinity of Yerba Buena, previous to our

ne CALIFORNIA,

visit there, a life was lost by the cuchillo. This weapon is always
worn, and is promptly resorted to in all their quarrels.

4

The fennale portion of the community are ignorant, degraded, and
the slaves of their husbands. They are very fond of dress, and will
make any sacrifice, even their own honour, to gratify it. The men
have no trades, and depend for every thing upon the Indians at the
missions, some of whom are quite ingenious, both as carpenters and
blacksmiths. The whites are so indolent, and withal have so much
pridOj as to m.ake them look upon all manual labour as degrading; in
truth, they regard all those who work as beneath them; they, in con-
sequence, can never be induced to labour. An anecdote was related
to me of one who had been knowm to dispense with his dinner, although
the food was but a few yards off, because the Indian was not at hand
to bring it to him.

The state of morals here is very low, and is every day becoming
worse. During the residence of the old Spanish priests, the people
were kept under some control ; but since the change I have narrated,
priest and layman are alike given up to idleness and debauchery. One
thing they are said to be remarkable for, which is their extreme hospi-
tality: it is alleged that they will give up all business to entertain a
guest. They put no value whatever upon time, and in entering into
contracts they have no regard to punctuality, frequently allowing two,
three, and four years to pass by before payment. This does not pro-
ceed from dishonesty, or any intention to evade their debts, for eventu-
ally they pay, if they can, and do not object to the amount of interest.
They in fact regard the inconvenience to which they may have put
their creditors as of no sort of consequence.

I understood that to offer money for entertainment was considered
as an insult; but I did it notwithstanding, and although it was refused
from myself, yet, when made through my servant, it was readily ac-
cepted. While one is entertained by them, if he should want to hire
or purchase any thing, the landlord will league with those about him
in schemes of extortion to be practised upon the stranger, and appear
vexed with those who are the prominent extortioners. Instances of
this will be given hereafter.

The Californians, as a people, must be termed cruel in their treat-
ment to their wives, as well as to the Indians; and in a still greater
degree, of course, to their slaves and cattle. They are exceedingly
ignorant of every thing but extortion, riding horses, and catching

bullocks.

Having thus thrown together the general information I was able to

\

I

CALIFORNIA. 177

procure, I shall proceed to speak more particularly of our operations
in the country, and intercourse with the inhabitants.

On the 20th of August, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold left the
V^incennes with six boats, accompanied by Dr. Pickering, Lieutenants
Alden and Budd, Passed Midshipman Sandford, Midshipmen Ham-
mersly and Elliott, and Gunner Williamson, with provisions for thirty
days, accompanied by an Indian pilot. They first passed the islands
of Angelos and Molate, next the points of San Pedro and San Pablo,
and then entered the bay of San Pablo.

This bay is of a form nearly circular, and ten miles in diameter;
many small streams enter it on all sides, from the neighbouring hills.
On the east side of this bay, the river Sacramento empties into it
through the Straits of Kaquines. The land is high, and the sandstone
rock on each side of the straits resembles that seen about the Straits
of De Fuca. The hills are thickly covered with wnid oats, which
were ripe, and the landscape had that peculiar golden hue before re-
marked. The contrast of this with the dark green foliage oi the
scattered oaks, heightens t!ie effect, which, although peculiar, is not
unpleasing to the sight. The trees all have an inclination towards the
southeast, showing the prevalence and violence of the bleak northwest
winds, producing on them a gnarled and mountain character. This

feature is general throughout the coast of California, and gives the
trees a singular appearance, the flat tops having the air of being cut or
trimmed after the manner of box trees. The tops are bent to one side,
and the larger branches hidden by the numerous twigs which compose

the mass.

1

us impressed upon the foliage, was at Terra del Fuego.

After passing the straits, the delta of the Sacramento opened to view.
The Tula marshes, which are overflowed by the river above,. are very
extensive, and are said to be the resort of a vast number of beavers,
which, in consequence of the nature of the ground, are difficult to
catch, many more traps being necessary than in other localities.

The party took the southeast arm of the Sacramento, and proceeded
up the stream for the distance of three miles, where they encamped,
without water, that of the river being still brackish. The soil was hard,
from being sunburnt, and the foot-marks of the cattle, which had been
made during the last rainy season, still remained.

In the morning, they discovered that they had taken the wrong
branch of the river, for this led immediately into the San Joachim.
They, in consequence, returned to the entrance, where they began their
survey. On the 23d, they reached the residence of Captain Suter, and
encamped on the opposite bank.

VOL. v. 23

- -^ ^r

178 CALIFORNIA.

Captain Suter is a Swiss by birth, and informed them that he had
been a lieutenant in the Swiss guards during the time of Charles X*
Soon after the revolution of July, he came to the United States, and
passed several years in the state of Missouri. He has but recently
removed to California, where he has obtained from the government a

conditional grant of thirty leagues square, bounded by the Sacramento

on the west, and extending as far up the river as the Prairie Bufes.
The spot he has chosen for the erection of his dwelling and fortification,
he has called New Helvetia; it is situated on the summit of a small
knoll, rising from the level prairie, two miles from the east bank of
the Sacramento, and fifty miles from its mouth. New Helvetia is
bounded on the north by the American Fork, a small serpentine
stream, w^hich has a course of but a few miles. This river, having a
bar near its mouth, no vessels larger than boats can enter it. At this
place the Sacramento is eight hundred feet wide, and this may be
termed the head of its navigation during the dry season, or the stage
of low water.

Mr. Geiger, a young American fi'om Newport, is now attached to
Captain Suter's establishment; but he informed me that he intended
to settle higher up the Sacramento, on the banks of the Feather river.
When Captain Suter first settled here in 1839, he was surrounded
by some of the most hostile tribes of Indians on the river; but by his
energy and management, with the aid of a small party of trappers, has
thus far prevented opposition to his plans. He has even succeeded in
■winning the good-will of the Indians, who are now labouring for him
in building housesTand a line of wall, to protect him against the in-
roads or attacks that he apprehends, more from the present authorities
of the land, than from the tribes about him, who are now working in
his employ. He holds, by appointment of the government, the office
of administrador, and has, according to his own belief, supreme powder
in his own district, condemning, acquitting, and punishing, as well as
marrying and burying those who are under him. He treats the Indians
very kindly, and pays them well for their services in trapping and
working for liim. His object is to attach them, as much as possible,
to his interests, that in case of need he may rely upon their chiefs for

assistance.

Although Captain Suter is, in general, in the habit of treating the
Indians with kindness, yet he related to our gentlemen instances in
which he had been obliged to fusilade nine of them; indeed, he does
not seem to stand upon much ceremony with those who oppose him in
any way. His buildings consist of extensive currals and dwelling-
houses, for himself and people, all built of adobes. Labour is paid for

»

CALIFORNIA. 179

in goods. The extent of his stock amounts to about one thousand
horses, two tliousand five hundred cattle, and about one thousand sheep,
many of which are now to be seen around liis premises, giving them
an appearaiice of civilization.

Captain Suter has commenced extensive operations in farming;. but
in the year of our visit the drought had affected him, as well as others,
and ruined all his crops. About forty Indians were at work for him,
whom he had tanglit to make adobes. The agreement for their
services is usually made with their chiefs, and in this way, as many
as are wanted are readily obtained. These chiefs have far more
authority over their tribes than those we had seen to the north; and
in the opinion of an intelligent American, they have more power over
and are more respected by their tribes than those of any other North
American Indians. Connected with the establishment, Captain Suter
has erected a distillery, in which he makes a kind of pisco from the
wild grape of the country.

The duties I have already named might be thought enough for the
supervision of one person; but to these must be added the direction of
a large party of trappers and hunters, mostly American, who enter here
into competition with those of the Hudson Bay Company ; and attention
to the property of the Russian establishment at Ross and Bodega, which
had just been transferred to him for the consideration of thirty thousand
dollars. In the purchase were included all the stock, houses, arms,
utensils, and cattle, belonging to the establishment. It was understood
that this post was abandoned, by orders of the Russian government, the
Russian Company no longer having any necessity to. hold it to procure
supplies, as they are now to be furnished under a contract with the
Hudson Bay Company ; and by giving it up, they avoid many heavy

expenses.

Bodega was first established by the Russians in 1812, under a per-
mission of the then governor of Monterey, to erect a few small huts for
■salting their beef. A small number of men were left to superintend this
business, which in a few years increased, until the place became of
such importance in the eyes of the Spanish authorities, that on the
Russians attempting to establish themselves at San Francisco,* they
were ordered to leave the country. This they refused to do, and having
become too strong to be removed by the Spanish force, they had been
suffered to remain undisturbed until the time of our visit.

The port of Bodega is situated about ninety miles to the north of thai
of San Francisco, and being both inconvenient and small, cannot be

On the island of Yerba Buena, and to employ their men in trapping during the te^on.

180 CALIFORNIA.

entered except by vessels of a small draft of water. From what 1
understood from the officers who had been in charge of it, it had been
a very considerable expense to the Russian American Company to
fortify it; and the disposal of the whole, on almost any terms, must
have been advantageous. Captain Suter had commenced removing the
stock and transporting the guns, *&c., to his establishment.

The buildings at the two posts numbered from fifty to sixty, and they
frequently contained a population of four or five hundred souls. Since

the breaking up of the establishment, the majority of the Russians

returned to Sitka ; the rest have remained in the employ of the present

owner.

During our stay, there was much apprehension on the part of some
that the present governor of the district next west of New Helvetia,
felt jealous of the power and influence that Captain Suter was obtaining
in the country ; and it was thought that had it not been for the force
which the latter could bring to oppose any attempt to dislodge him, it
would have been tried. In the mean time Captain Suter Is using all
his energies to render himself impregnable.

In his manners, Captain Suter is frank and prepossessing; he has
much intelligence, is conversant with several languages, and withal not
a little enthusiastic : he generally wears a kind of undress uniform, with
his side-arms buckled around him. He has a wife and daughter whom
he expects soon to join him.

New Helvetia was found to be in latitude 38^ 33' 45" N., and longi-
tude 12r 22' 24" W.

According to this gentleman, there are nine different tribes of Indians
that are now in his neighbourhood, and within a short distance of his

territory.

In the evening our party were favoured with a dance by Indian boys,

who, before they began, ornamented themselves with white masks, and

decked their bodies each according to his own taste. The music was

vocal, and several joined in the song. Their motions were thought to

resemble the Pawnees' nriode of dancing. Their music was more in

harmony than among the other tribes we had seen ; neither has their

language any of the harsh guttural sounds found in those of the Oregon

Indians. Every word of their language appears to terminate with a

vowel, after the manner of the Polynesian dialects, which gives their

voices much more softness than the tribes to the north, to whom they

have no resemblance whatever, though they are said to be somewhat

like the Shoshones.

They wear fillets of leaves around their heads, and often tie on them
a piece of cotton, after the manner of the Polynesians. These Indians*

I

I

CALIFORNIA. 131

do not build canoes, although they admire and prize them hi<^hly; thev
are excellent swimmers, and in consequence of it do not need them in
their narrow streams ; they, however, make use of simple rafts, com-
posed of one or two logs, generally split

The venereal disease is said to prevail to a great extent among

them; and whole tribes have been swept off by the smalUpox. The

\ former is said to have been communicated by the Indians who have

I been discharged from the mission. All agree that the Indians have

been very unjustly treated by the governor. Cattle that had been
given to them by the padres of the mission w^hen they left it, have
been taken away from them by this functionary, and added to his own
stock — whence a saying has been derived, that the governor's cows
produce three times a year. The Spanish laws do not recognise the
Indian title to lands, but consider them and the Indians also in the light
of public property-

+

Although the country around was parched up with the severe
drought that had prevailed, yet the short grasses were abundant, and
it was more completely covered with vegetation than that below.
Scattered oaks are seen in all directions, some of which are of large

«

dimensions, — five or six feet in diameter, and sixty or seventy feet high.
The scenery was very much admired, and Mount Diavolo, near the
mouth of the San Joachim, adds to its beauty. The mountains to the
east are visible from Captain Suter*s settlement, and it is said that
during some portions of the year they are covered with snow. A
route across them was followed, directly east of this place, by a party,
but they were twenty days in getting over, and found the country so
thickly wooded that they were obliged to cut their way. The pass
which is recommended as better, is two hundred miles to the north of
this place, through the gap made by the head waters of the Sacra-
mento." This has led to the belief that Pitt's river extends in this

X

direction through and beyond them.

The best route to the United States is to follow the San Joachim for
sixty miles, thence easterly, through a gap in the Snowy Mountains,
by a good beaten road; thence the course is northeasterly to Mary's
river, which flow's southeast and has no outlet, but loses itself in a
lake; thence continuing in the same direction, the Portneuf river, in
the Upper Shoshone, is reached ; and thence to Fort Hall. Accord-
ing to Dr. Marsh, (an American of much intelligence, resident at the
mouth of the San Joachim, to whom we are indebted for much infor-
mation of the country,) there is plenty of fresh water and pasturage

the Colorado.

proper

Q

182 CALIFORNIA.

Dr. Marsh crossed nothing like a range of mountains in the whole
route from the United States. Hills and mountains were often seen
on what he calls the table-land of New Mexico. The most common
plant met w^ith w^as an acacia, a small shrub which is also to be found
in the southern parts of New Mexico, where the chmate is likewise
very arid- In one district w^here it occurs, it is found necessary to
protect both horse and rider with a sort of armour against this rigid
and thorny vegetation, betw^een latitude 37"^ and 38° N.

He also reports that there are other streams to the east of the moun-
tains w^ithout outlets, and which do not reach the Colorado, althouo^h
running in that direction. He identifies the Youta, or great Salt Lake,
with the Lake Timponogos of the early Spanish fathers who visited
it, and agrees with others in placing the north end of it nearly in the
parallel of 42^ N.

The Colorado he reports to be impracticable for boats to descend
from the head waters to its mouth, on account of its rapidity. There
is one place in it that is described as similar to the Dalles of the
Columbia, w^hich is supposed to be where it passes through the range
of mountains.

The banks of the river are bordered with marshes, which extend
for miles back. This kind of country continues up both the Sacra-
mento and San Joachim, and is the proper Tula district of which so
much has been said, and so many errors propagated. Here the tula
(Scirpus lacustris) grows in great luxuriance.

On the 25th, the boats left New Helvetia. It was discovered, pre-
vious to starting, that four men had deserted from their party. This
is a common circumstance in this port, and very few vessels visit it
without losing some portion of their crews. The dissolute habits
of the people form such strong temptations for sailors, that few can
resist them. A number of men who were deserters were continu-
ally around us. Among others, the sergeant and marine guard that
had deserted from H. B. M. ship Sulphur were the most troublesome.
Their appearance did not prove that they had changed their situation

for the better.

Ten miles up the river, a sand-bar occurred, over which it was

found that the launch could not pass. Lieutenant-Commandant Rin^r.
gold therefore left her at this place, under charge of Mr. Williams,
taking sufficient provisions in the boats. The oaks became more scat-
tered, and the soil thickly covered with vegetation, although parched
up by continued drought.

On the 26th, they reached the mouth of Feather river, which is fif-
teen miles above New Helvetia. It appeared nearly as broad as the

CALIFORNIA. 183

main stream, but there is a bar extending the whole distance across it,
on which the boats grounded. On the point of the fork, the ground
was strewed with the skulls and bones of an Indian tribe, nil of whom
are said to have died, within a few years, of the tertian fever, and to
have nearly become extinct in consequence. Near this had been an
Indian village, which w^as destroyed by Captain Suter and his trappers,
because its inhabitants had stolen cattle, &c. The affair rcsuhcd in
one of the Indians being killed, twenty-seven made captive, and the
removal of the remainder beyond the limits of his territory. The
battle-ground was pointed out, at a bend of the river, which is only
one-third of a mile across, though three around. Above the junction
of the two rivers, the Sacramento becomes sensibly diminished.

^

Game is represented to have decreased in this vicinity, from the
numbers destroyed by the parties of the Hudson Bay Company, who
annually frequent these grounds. Large flocks of curlew were seen
around; and the California quail, which disappeared since leaving the
coast, was again seen. The trees that line the banks consist of the
cotton-wood, &c. Single oaks, with short grass beneath them, are
scattered over the plain.

The next day, as they advanced, game became more plentiful, and
elk w^ere found to be most so. Some of them were of large size, and
at this season of the year, the rutting, they are seen generally in pairs;
but at other times, the females are in large herds. They are fine-
looking animals, with very large antlers, and seemed, in the first in-
stance, devoid of fear. The herds are usually thirty to forty in number,
and are chiefly composed of females and their young. The father of
the flock is always conspicuous, and with his horns seemed to over-
shadow and protect the family.

m

The tula or bulrush was still found in great quantities, growing on
the banks. The Indians use its roots as food, either raw, or mixed
with the grass seed, which forms the principal article of their food.

This root is likewise eaten by the grisly bear.
f* At the encamping-place was a grore of poplars of large size, some

of which were seventy feet high, and two and a half feet in diameter.
The leaf resembled that of the American aspen. At night they had a
slight thunder-shower. The wolves and bears had entered the camp
during the night, although there was a watch kept at each end of it.

4

f

The howling of the wolves was almost constant.

On the 27th, the current in the Sacramento had become much more
rapid, and the snags more frequent; its banks were on an average
about twenty feet above the water, though there was every appearance
on them of their having been overflowed. The prairies are perfectly

\

184 CALIFORNIA.

level, and every where overspread with dead shells of the Planorbis.
In some places these shells appeared as though they had been collected
in heaps. From the top of these banks, the Prairie Butes were in
sight to the northward and westward.

As they proceeded up the river, the country continued of the same
character, the level being only interrupted by the line of trees that
borders the river. These consist of oaks and sycamores.

They encamped at a late hour, on a spot where the prairie had been
burnt over, and were much disturbed during the night, by the bears,
wolves, and owls. Near this camp was a deserted village.

On the 29th, they for the first time met Indians, who appeared
quite shy, concealing themselves behind trees. As they increased in
numbers, however, they became more confident, and invited the party
to land. Towards noon the character of the country began to change,
and trees of a larger size than before were seen, growing out from the
banks. A little after noon, they met with the remains of a fish-weir.
Some Indians were seen along the banks, armed with bows, arrows,
and lances : none but males appeared ; they, however, made no hostile
demonstrations.

Game and fur-bearing animals had become more numerous, and
among them were the lynx and fox. The latter is the species whose
fur brings a high price in China, where as much as twenty dollars
is paid for a skin. This fox is said to have one peculiarity, namely,
that when chased it will ascend trees. Bears were also in great
numbers. It is reported that they will sometimes attack and eat the

Indians.

Dr. Marsh thinks there is but one species, the grisly bear; but the

black bear of the United States is found in New Mexico, and highly

prized for its skin; though Dr. Pickering thinks he saw another spe^

cies, whose summer coat approaches the yellow bear of Oregon. The

skin of the young is her^ sometimes made into quivers, and they are

destitute of the horny claws of the grisly bear. The skin of the latter

animal is said sometimes to be as large as that of an ox; its food is the

same as that of the Indians, and varies with the seasons. Its strength

is said to be prodigiously great, and it has been known when lassoed

to drag three horses; and when baited in the bull and bear fights prac-

tised in California, will check the charge of a bull by putting out one

of its paws.

Thev will also ascend the oaks for the acorns, and break off
branches so large as almost to ruin the tree. It has been generally
supposed that they do not climb ; but all the hunters bear testimony that
they can do it, ahhough slowly and clumsily. They are now less

k'

*

X

^

CALIFORNIA. 185

■»

1

numerous than formerly; indeed, it is alleged that the lower country,
near the Saa Joachim, was once so infested with these bears, that the
Indians were obliged to keep to the high lands when travelling.

It does not at all times kill its enemies when it has them in its
powder; rarely attacks a man unless he comes upon him by surprise, and
is not considered a dangerous animal.

Anecdotes are told of hunters who had fallen into the power of grisly
Dears, which would cover them up with brush, grass, and leaves, and
put them down, without further molestation, so long as they remained
quiet ; if they attempted to rise again, the bear would again put them
down, cover them over as before, and finally leave them unhurt.

Three or four are usually seen feeding together. The cubs are
remarkably small in proportion to the full-grow^n animal.

Lieutenant-Commandant Rint^orold, Dr. Pickerincr, and Mr. Geiser,
landed to procure an interview^ with the chief, \vho, with some others,
was prevailed upon to accompany them to their encampment. The
chief presented them with a tuft of w^hite feathers, stuck on a stick
about one foot long, which was supposed to be a token of friendship.
These Indians were naked, and some of them had feathers in their hair,
arranged in different ways. One among them wns seen pitted with the
small-pox, %vhich was the only instance that had been observed of the
sort. Their fillets of feathers somewhat resembled those worn by the
chiefs at the Sandw^ich Islands; and feather cloaks were seen at the
village, resembling some we had seen to the north, near the Straits of
De Fuca.

Their bows and arrows were precisely like those described as used
by the more northern tribes. The arrows w^ere about three feet long,
and the bow^s were of yew^ encased with sinew. Their arrows, as well
as their spears, which were very short, were pointed with flint.

These Indians were generally fine robust men, of low stature, and
badly formed; but the chiefs, five or six in number, w^ere fully equal in
size to the whites, though inferior in stature and good-looking as com-
pared with the generality of the Polynesians. They had a strong
resemblance to the latter, except that the nose was not so flat and their
colour rather darker. Although the men go naked, the women are said
to w^ear the maro. The males seemed to be exceedingly jealous, on
account, it is said, o[ the unprincipled conduct of ihe whites w^ho have
occasionally passed among them- Their hair is not w^orn as long as it
is by the northern Indians, and is nnuch thicker. They had beards and
w^hiskers an inch or two long, very soft and fine.

One of them was observed to have stuck in his head a long pin or

VOL. V. Q2 24

186 CALIFORNIA.

small stick, like that so much in use among the Feejees. Most of them
had some slight marks of tattooing on their breast, somewhat similar
to that of the Chinooks, Several of them had their ears bored, and
wore in the opening round pieces of wood or bone, some of which were
carved.

Their rancheria, or village, consisted of no more than five or six
huts, built around a larger one, which appeared somewhat like the
** tamascals" — sweating-houses. All their houses were formed in the
following manner; a round pit is dug, three or four feet deep and from
ten to twenty feet in diameter; over this a framework of sticks is
raised, woven together, upon w^hich is laid dried grass and reeds ; the
whole is then covered with earth. They have one small opening, into
which it is necessary to creep on all-fours; another is left on the top,
which is extended upw^ards with bundles of grass, to serve as a
chimney ; in some of the houses there was a kind of hanging-shelf,
apparently for the purpose of drying fisb. The tamascal differed in no
respect from the others, except in its size, and appeared sufficiently
large to contain half the inhabitants of the rancheria; but, unlike the
rest, it had several instead of one opening; all of these had coverings,
which are intended for the purpose of retaining the heat as long as
possible. The Indians are particularly fond of these baths, and make
constant use of them. The roofs of their houses are strong enough to
bear the w^eight of several persons, and the Indians are usually seen
sitting on the top of them. Previous to our gentlemen reaching the
rancheria, their women had all decamped, excepting one old one, who,
on perceiving the party dose to hor, dropped her load, and in excessive
fear darted off like a wild animal. Around the huts were scattered
vast quantities of the mussels' shells and acorns, which would therefore
seem to be the principal articles of food. Near the huts, large branches
of trees had been stuck up for shade. Some water-light baskets and
bulrush mats were their only fabrics. They do not appear to pay any
attention to cultivation, and the only appearance of it was in a species
of Cucurbita (mock orange), planted near their village; but what use
they made of this w^as not learned.

This rancheria is said to contain between two and three hundred
warriors, who are a fair specimen of the tribes of the country, and are
the most troublesome to the trappers, with whom they generally have a
fight once a year. On one occasion, the Hudson Bay Company left
their cattle in their charge, and when the delivery was demanded they
refused to give them up ; w^ar was accordingly made on them, and
after thev had lost forty of their warriors, they consented to return the

CALIFORNIA. 187

cattle and make peace. These Indians do not use the tomahawk, nor
practise scalping* They go unclothed, even in winter, although the
climate is occasionally quite cold in this northern part of the valley.

On the morning when the party were breaking up camp to embark,
an Indian boldly seized the bowie-knife-pistol of Dr. Pickering, and
made at once for the woods. He had chosen his time well, for no
arms were at hand. Several of the men pursued him, but by his alert-
ness he eluded all pursuit ; and having gained the bushes, escaped with
his prize.

This act, committed in open daylight, and at the risk of life, shows
how strong is their propensity to steal. All the other Indians present
soon understood the difficulty, and at once took their departure. The
chief was not present ; those who were concerned in the theft had not
been before seen, and it was conjectured belonged to one of the ran-
cherias higher up the river. A short distance above the place where

this occurred, they met the chief, to whom the theft was made know^n,
and who promised to restore the stolen article.

At noon they passed the Prairie Butes, which are a collection of
isolated hills, rising from the level plain, as if out of the sea. As they
were visited by the party that passed through from Oregon, I shall give
a particular account of them in the narrative of that journey. They
formed one of the connecting links between the operations of the two
parties, and served to verify their respective observations. Indians were
seen on the west bank of the ri^^er, with a number of women in com-
pany, who seemed well disposed to enter into communication, as they
motioned the party to land.

In the afternoon they encamped on the west bank, at a considerable
distance above the Butes. The river was here only two hundred feet
wide, and its banks but fifteen feet high. The trees on the shores had
now become quite thick, and grew with great luxuriance; so much so,
that were the sight confined to the river banks, it might be supposed
that the country was one continued forest, instead of an open prairie.

The Indians who visited them at this camp, were less timid, and a
much finer-looking set of men than those before seen. They allowed
the officers and men to examine their bows and arrows, and appeared
to have confidence in our good feeling tow^ards them. The old chief
welcomed the party, granted them permission to encamp on the bank,
and then departing with all his tribe, nothing more was seen of him

until late the next morning.

On the 31st, they again proceeded, and passed several Indian villages.
Before noon, they arrived at a substantially-built fish-weir, of which
the Indians began to take a part dow^n, but Lieutenant-Commandant

188 CALIFORNIA-

Ringgold deeming that this was the termination of his exploration,
motioned to them to desist. This fish-weir w^as constructed with a great
deal of art: stakes, pointing down the stream, had been driven into its
bed, having three openings, which led into square pens above; over

each of the entrances into the pens was a platform, on which tho
natives stand to take the fish; on these also there were heaps of ashes,
indicating that the natives make use of fire to attract the fish. The
annexed wood-cut is a representation of the weir.

n 1

FISH-WEIR.

w

The river w^as examined for two or three miles above, and found to
be filled with rapids, and innumerable difficulties caused by snags and
sand-bars. Here Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold ascertained his
position to be in latitude 39^ 13' 39" N., longitude 12F 48' 38" W.,
w^hich, joined to the work of the land party, gives the exploration or
the whole extent of the Sacramento river, from its source to the sea,
a distance of two hundred miles. The first fork, or the junction of
Pitt's with that of Destruction river or creek, is in latitude 40° 47' N.,
longitude 122^ 34' W.

The Indians of this tribe, the Kinkla, were disposed to be much
more friendly than those met with during the two preceding days.
The party had some intercourse with them, and many of the women
i?vere seen, some of whom wore the peculiar Polynesian dress, called
the maro, which in this case was made of strings from the Californian
flax, which is common in this part of the country. Where this cannot
be procured, they use the tula. This garment hangs in considerable
thickness both before and behind, but is open at the sides-

Of these Indians it is reported that no one has more than one wife.
Their village was similar to that already described. The women
were not very prepossessing in their appearance, although the younger
ones had pleasing faces and fine forms; but the men were large and
stout, and would be termed finely formed. The women were em-
ployed in drying grass-seed and acorns in the sun, of which the latter
seemed to be the principal part of their food. These Indians had
small fishing-nets, somewhat resembling in size and shape a lady's
reticule. These they made use of when diving for mussels, and in a

CALIFORNIA. jgg

j- short time procured half a bushel of them. They had also larn-er

nets, which very much resemble our own; but on close examination,

.^ Wt.CA.-^O v. V.B^. V.V^.K^,*^

be

ferent.

Their language is soft compared to that of the northern Indians,
and as much so as that of the Polynesians. In but a few cases was
the guttural sound of tch observed ; and the repetition of syllables is
frequent, as " wai-wai," and " hau-hau-hau." Lieutenant-Comman-
dant Ringgold obtained a small vocabulary of the language from a
chief, and Captain Suter furnished much information respecting it.
According to him, although there are many tribes, yet they speak no
more than two distinct languages, one of which prevails on the east
and the other on the west side of the Sacramento, This information,
however, was contradicted by other authorities; but as this subject
belongs to the report on philology, I must refer the reader to Mr.
Hale's book on that subject for further information.

According to the best authorities, these Indians, so far from being
cannibals, will not eat any kind of animals that eat man. They
carry burdens in the same manner as the northern tribes, wuth a
strap round the forehead. They live upon various plants, in their
several seasons, besides grapes, and even use the Artemisia- A species
of lobacco is found on the sandy beaches, which the Indians prepare
and smoke.

Their bows and arrow's were carefully made, and the latter were
kept in quivers made of fox-skins, young bears, &c. In each of these
they had about forty arrows, pointed with flint and neatly made.

The vegetation throughout the whole course o{ the Sacramento

j^^.^V^WW *.-*w«_

showed evident traces of salt, and in some places the prairies seemed
to be incrusted with it.

At the place where the survey ended, the river was two hundred
feet wide, its banks being twenty feet above the river; but it was
evident that its perpendicular rise exceeded this, as there was every
appearance of its overflowing them; and, according to the testimony
of the Indians, the whole country was annually inundated.

On the afternoon of the 31st of August, the party turned to go down
the stream, and with the aid of the current made rapid progress.
Towards sunset they entered the small stream called Bute, on whose
banks they encamped. Here they were much disturbed, both wuth
bears and musquitoes.

On the 1st of September, they made an early start, and about noon
reached the village where the theft of Dr. Pickering's pistol had been
committed.

190 CALIFORNIA.

It was with some difficulty that the Indians were persuaded to
approach ; but a fine-looking savage, more bold than the rest, at last
ventured to do so, and gave the information that the Indian who had
committed the theft, resided at the village up stream.

The weapon therefore not being forthcoming, Lieutenant-Comman-
dant Ringgold determined to seize this man as a hostage for the return
of the article. He was accordingly secured, his arms pinioned behind
him, and led down to the boat, when tw^o men were ordered to tie his
legs ; while they were in the act of doing this, he extricated himself,
and jumped overboard. The guns were at once levelled, and half a
dozen triggers ready to be pulled; but Lieutenant-Commandant Ring-
gold very properly stopped them from firing, and endeavours were
made to recapture him, but without effect. These efforts having
failed, they took to their boats, and pulled down the stream. The
Indians who were on the banks, to the number of two hundred and

4

fifty, made no demonstrations of hostility.

Platforms similar to those erected by the Indians for spearing salmon,
were passed along the river banks-
Having stopped at the same camp at the Poplar Grov^e, as on the
28th, they took a few hours' amusement in hunting. = Each person
who went out returned with an elk or a buck as' a prize, w^ith large
antlers. According to the hunters, the elk obtains an additional

■ ■

prong every year ; and one of those killed had sixteen. The antlers
are shed every year, and only acquire hardness at the rutting season,
when the velvet is rubbed off. The usual length of their life is from

eight to ten years.

On the 3d, they continued the survey, until they were below Feather
river, when the provisions were so nearly exhausted that Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold found that it would be impossible for him to
examine that stream. The residents and trappers informed me that
they had followed it to its source. From them I learned that it takes
its rise in the Californian Range, from which it pursues a southwest
course, until it falls into the Sacramento river. It is about forty miles
in length. It is believed that the Spaniards, when they first explored
this country, designated the Feather river as the Sacramento, and gave
to the true Sacramento the name of the Jesu Maria. In no other way,
at least, can the error which has occurred, in relation to the Jesu
Maria, be explained ; and on this supposition, the accounts of it become

intelligible.

In the neighbourhood of the Sacramento, there are sometimes to be
found small lakes or bayous, which seem to be filled at high water, but
become stagnant during the dry season. These the elk and deer fre-

CAl^irORNI A. 191

quent in large numbers. Their cry or whistle is at limes very shrill,
and may be heard for a great distance.

At the junction of the Feather river with the Sacramento, the latter

increases in width to nearly double. It was found jusl below the

I junction to be from twelve to fifteen hundred feet broad, forming a sort

of bay, but it soon again contracts. They encamped about ten miles
below the confluence of these streams.

Whilst the men were employed in pitching the tents, Dr. Pickering
strolled up the bank, to see what he could find in the botanical way,
without arms. On his approaching the bushes, a huge grisly bear
made for him, and so close was he that it was necessary for iiim to
make all the exertion he could to effect his escape from so dangerous
an adversary. He gave the alarm, and every one was running for
his arms, but before these could be prepared, this inhabitant of the

r

forest made a precipitate retreat, and was soon beyond the reach of
the rifle.

On the 4th, they had returned to Captain Suter, where they found
that a small Russian schooner had arrived from Bodega, bringing the

0""0

governor of that establishment, who w^as about delivering it up to
Captain Suter. The vessel w^as understood to have been built at
Sitka, and was of only thirty tons burden, very much resembling an
English vessel of the same class.

For a boat they use a skin "badaka," that is admirably adapted for
the seas and weather they have to contend with. "When the persons
are seated, and the opening closed, with a skin dress they more
resemble an aquatic animal than any thing else.

The morning after their arrival, Captain Suter paid his men their
weekly wages, in cloths, calicoes, vests, shirts, and pantaloons. The
w^hole was arranged through their chief, who spoke a little Spanish.
The labourers are obtained from the different rancherias, and some
from the vicinity of the mountains. It w^as observed that the larger
portion of the labourers were young men and boys; no won^en were
employed, and as yet their services are not needed ; but it is the Cap-
tain's intention, as he informed our gentlemen, to have employment for

them in a year or two.

Several Americans from the United States are beginning to settle in
this part of the country, and it will not be long before it becomes in

some respects, an American Colony.

Ahhough it was late in the season, a few salmon were caught at the
fishery ; they were not to be distinguished from the Columbia species
of the first run.

192

CALIFORNIA.

The Indians have several rancherias around New Helvetia. Their
lodges are all somewhat like low haycocks, being composed of a
framework of sticks, thatched with the bulrush. In these there was
no excavation, neither were they covered with earth; these dwellings
were at the time deserted by the Indians, who were found encamped
about half a mile nearer the river, with but a few boughs and mats to
sheher them- The latter are manufactured after the manner that has
been described as used by the Indians of Oregon-

At the rancheria, the men are generally found engaged in various
games of chance, similar to those before described; it is not believed,
however, that they carry their gambling propensities to such an
extent as to stake their liberty. On the women, all the drudgery

seems to be thrown. They were seen engaged in weaving water-
tight baskets: these are very neatly made, of sufficient capacity to
hold a bushel, and in these it is said they contrive to boil w^ater and
cook their food.

In the preparation of the acorn-bread all assist. The acorns are
gathered in very large quantities, piled in heaps, and spread in the sun

to dry.

Both men and women are to be seen employed shelling,

pounding, and baking them into bread : the pounding is performed upon

*

a plank that has been hollowed out, with a stone pestle. To reduce the
large quantity to a fine powder, requires great labour. This employ-
ment presents a busy scene, though the want of cleanliness, I may
almost say pig-like filthiness with which it is performed, excites
disgust*

INDIANS

NDING ACORNS.

Around New Helvetia, ahhough but a few days had elapsed since

CALIFORNIA. 193

their former visit, the country, if possible, appeared more arid; ii by
no means justified the high encomiums that we had heard bestowed
upon this far-famed valley. Our expectations probably had been so
much raised as scarcely to allow us to give it that credit it really
deserves.

The valley of the Sacramento may include a space of one hundred
and eighty miles long, by from twenty to fifty miles wide. A large part
of this is undoubtedly barren and unproductive, and. must for ever
remain so. The part that is deemed good soil, is inundated annually,
not for any great length of time, yet sufficiently long to make it unfit
for advantageous settlement. The high prairie is spoken of as being
in general barren, and as affording but little good pasture.

The crops are usually ripe in June, which enables the wheat and
Indian corn to be gathered before the summer drought begins. There
is usually a rainy season of three months, but during the year of our
visit no rain had fallen; and from every crop having failed, the inhabi-
tants had been living upon their cattle. The cattle suffered almost as
much as the crops, and large numbers of them died from starvation.
On this account, the inhabitants had forborne to kill their cattle for
hides, believing it to be a great loss to do so, as the weight was so
much depreciated as to pay little more than the labour of slaughter and
preparing for market.

The variety of game in this country almost exceeds belief. The elk
may be said to predominate, but there are also many bears, black-
tailed deer, wolves, foxes, minxs, hares, musk-rats, badgers, antelopes,
and Ovis montana. The wolf is reported by Dr. Marsh to be the same
as the prairie-wolf of the Upper Mississippi, but not the one described
by Say. Mr. Peale in his report will probably assimilate it to the
small one of Oregon, with large ears. The fox is the same as the gray
one of the wooded parts of the United States. According to Mr. Peale,
the black-tailed deer is the only species found in this country. The
Ovis montana has been frequently seen by Dr. Marsh ; its coating is
altogether hair, without any admixture of wool No specimens were
obtained for the Expedition.

The badger was seen by Dr. Pickering, who attempted to capture
one ; he found no difficulty in following it, as its movements were not
very rapids After passing over some hills, it made a stand ; and as he
approached, bristled up, but made no other threatening demonstration,
and retreated backwards to its burrow. On his feigning a retreat, it
came again forth and exposed itself to be fired at. Dr. Pickering
wounded it; but not so much as to prevent its reaching its burrow, and
so it escaped. He was satisfied by its movements, that its curiosity w^as
VOL. V- R 25

194 CALIFORNIA.

the cause that led it to risk destruction. This seems to be the great
and all-powerful instinctive passion of these wild animals, and frequently
retains them within reach of the deadly rifle. Considering the quantity
of game, the success attendant on our tyro hunters was not equal to
their anticipations, and convinced them that it is much easier to bring
down an elk in anticipation than in reahty. The accidents were few;
and only one annoyance was experienced, in the chase of a skunk,
which obHged the officer to part with his clothes. The wild-fowl
scarcely claimed attention, the elk and large animals being so abundant.
The flesh of the elk was much preferred by the party to that of the
deer.

On the 6th, the survey being finished down to this point, they de-
scended the river, on their return to the ship. On the 8th, they had
arrived at the mouth of the river, and the Straits of Kaquines. On the
9th, at midnight, they reached the Vincennes, after an absence of
twenty days. Subsequent to this date, on the 20th, Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold proceeded again, with six boats, to examine the
bay of San Pablo, and the streams that flow into it, and also up the
San Joachim, until it branched off to the southward and eastward.
This party returned to the ship on the 29th-

Whilst

« t

visits to

the different places around, and received many persons on board,
priests as well as laymen; and as their estancias or mission-houses
were far removed, they became guests for a longer time than was
agreeable to most of the officers. A Californian needs no pressing to
stay, as long as he is pleased with the place; and that he should be so,
it is not necessarv to furnish him with luxuries: he is content with

coarse fare, provided he can get enough of strong drink to minister to

his thirst. I have already spoken of the great consumption of spirits
that is said to take place in this country ; and from the experience we
had of it, the accounts certainly are not exaggerated. The palm for
intemperance was, I think, generally given to the padres, some of
whom, notwithstanding their clerical robes, did ample justice to every
drinkable offered them ; and so well were they pleased, that some of
them made a visit of three days* duration, and were even then disin-
clined to leave. It is not to be denied that they left the same impres-
sion of their characters on board that it has been heretofore said they
bear on shore- The officers all seemed disposed to draw a veil over
the conduct to which they were witnesses, and I will not be the one

be

to

Our intercourse with SeSor Martinez and his family was much

C--

CALIFORNIA. 195

more agreeable. Of them, Captain Beechey has given a delightful
account. Martinez has now retired to an estancia, where he is living
in what is, in this country, affluence, llis wife and himself hav6
grown older, but still retain the character drawn of them by Captain
Beechey. Near Pinole, Senor Martinez has a large house, but mea-
gerly furnished, where he is surrounded by his large family of children
and grandchildren. His wife is the same managing body, and keeps a
strict eye upon her younger daughters, who are all good-looking.

The Californians are always inclined for amusement, and dancing
is their favourite pastime, so that where a family is large, they seldom
fail to pass olF the evening pleasantly for their guests. Quadrilles
and Spanish dances are the fashion ; and the desire to please is as
strongly exhibited in this family as it was during the visit of Captain
Beechey. After dancing until a late hour, supper was provided, when
the guests were either accommodated for the night, or set out to
retui'n to their homes, which, if they be unable to reach, they pass the
night in the open air, using their ponchos and saddle-cloths for cover-
ing. During the nights there is but little wind, and the atmosphere is
generally so dry and clear, that a person may, with impunity, sleep in
the open air.

Three of the daughters and two of the sons of Senor Martinez are
married ; one of the former to Don Vitro Castro, and another to the
captain of the port, an Englishman by the name of Richardson, who
lives at Sausahto, and who supplies vessels with provisions. He was
very attentive and obliging in furnishing the ship with supplies, and
affording us the means of baking bread for the daily supply of the ship.

Captain Richardson has an estancia, bordering on Sausallto Bay,
prettily situated under the hill, with sufficient fertile land for his gar-
dens, or rather fields, where his vegetables are raised. His house is
small, consisting of only two rooms, and within a few rods of it all the
cattle are slaughtered, which affords a sight and smell that are not the
most aorreeable. A collection of leo^-bones, hoofs, horns, and hides,
lay about in confusion, for which numerous dogs were fighting. It
was with great difficulty that these animals could be made to cease
their strife; and what with this and the barking kept up by others,
both without and within doors, there was such a clamour raised as
required all the household, consisting of husband, wife, daughter, and
slave, to quiet. Captain Richardson's establishment is a fair represen-
tation of the manner of living in California, and articles which are
condemned elsewhere are acceptable here. However small the apart-
ment may be, it is but sparingly furnished, and with no view of
comfort, in our sense of the word ; cleanliness, the great promoter of

196 CALIFORNIA.

it, is wanting, and the indolence of the people seems an insuperable bar
to it. Seiiora Richardson shows the marks of former beauty, which
her daughter has inherited, and is said to be the handsomest woman in
all California. I had the honour of seeing them when I returned Cap-
tain Richardson's call, and they were, in the Spanish style of beauty,
quite deserving of the reputation they had acquired.

Captain Richardson did what he could to afford amusement for the
officers, and during the visit of Senor Martinez to the ship, an invita-
tion to a dance was accepted by some of them. Although the house
was small, yet they made out to pass the evening with great hilarity,
Senor Martinez dancing with two of his grand-daughters — one on
each arm. The group of musicians it was thought might have sat
for the portraits of Roman soldiers. The evening's entertainment
passed off well, the dancing having continued the greater part of the
night- The Californians must be ranked next to the Chilenos for their
love of this amusement- The refreshment consisted principally of
strong drinks- Seiior Martinez is looked upon as one of the aristo-
crats of the country. Much deference is paid to his opinion, and an
alliance with his family is much sought after- The old lady exercises
a matronly care over her daughters, and has them ever under her
w^atchful eye. Captain Richardson's daughter, though only seventeen,
is so famed for her beauty and attractions, that she has several avowed
suitors. Courtships are here conducted somewhat in an old-fashioned
manner. The suitor is obliged to avow himself and receive permission
to visit. All who visit the estancia near Pinole will meet with that
warm reception and kind treatment that Senor Martinez, his lady, and
family, are so remarkable for.

On the opposite side of the bay of San Pablo, or to the west, are
some of the finest tracts of country in California. One of these is
called the Valley of Nappa, another that of Zonoma, and a third, San
Rafael. In Zonoma is situated the town of the same name, the
residence of General Vallejo, and the mission of San Rafael. The
fertile country extends across to Ross and Bodega, the two Russian
settlements before spoken of. Zonoma is the seat of government, and
is situated in an extensive plain, with some high hills for its southern
boundary. The plain is covered with fine oaks, and there is a never-
failing stream of water passing through it. There is besides an inlet
from the bay, which allows a boat navigation to it of about twelve

miles.

Upon paper, Zonoma is a large city, and laid out according to the
most approved plan. In reality, however, it consists of only the follow-
ing buildings: General Vallejo's house, built of adobes, of two stories.

I

CALIFORXI A. 197

which fronts on the public square, ai)d is said to be one of the best
houses in California. On the right of this is the residence of the
general's brother, Salvadore, and to the left, the barracks for the
accommodation of the guard for the general, consisting of about twenty
fusileers. Not far removed is the old dilapidated mission-house of San
Francisco Solano, scarcely tenantable, though a small part of it is
inhabited still by the Padre Kihas, who continues, notwithstanding the
poverty of his mission, to entertain the stranger, and show him all the
hospitality he can.

Besides the buildings just enumerated, there were in the course of
construction, in 1841, a neat little chapel, and a small building for a
billiard-room. There are also three or four more houses and huts
which are tenanted; and at some future day it may boast of some
farther additions.

General Vallejo was one of those who figured in the revolution of
1836, and was then appointed Commandant-General of Alta-Cali-
fornia. He is now the owner of large estates ; and having chosen this
part of the country for his residence, he is free from the opposition
and broils that are continually growing out of the petty concerns of
the custom-house and its duties- He is not over-scrupulous in demand-
ing duties of the vessels entering the port of San Francisco; and until
he has been seen and consulted, a vessel trading here is liable to an
indefinite amount of duties. A portion of the payment adds to his
wealth, and how much goes to the government is not known ; enough,
I was told, in some cases, to save appearances, and no more. The
foreigners who trade here are very attentive to him; and it might be
supposed, before making inquiry into the cause, that he is a great
favourite with them. The highest official protection is necessary for
all those who wish to prosper in their trade to this port, and to prevent

exactions from subordinates.

I have already spoken of the unceremonious manner in which Cap-
tain Suter officiated as administrador of the district to the east of the
Sacramento. The anecdotes related to me of Vallejo, in like manner,
show a striking disregard for the lives, as well as for the property and
liberty of the Indians and gente de razon. He is supreme, and acts
with the same impunity as all his predecessors, with one or two
exceptions, have done before him. As an instance of the lawless acts
of the governors, it is said that one of them entertained the idea of
training the Indians as soldiers, and a company of them had been
brought together, drilled, and made such proficiency in the use of their
arms, that his excellency became alarmed, and forthwith ordered them
all to be shot! I have little doubt that this story may be essentially

198 CALIFORNIA-

true, for the value of an Indian's life in the eye of the rulers scarcely
exceeds that of one of the wild cattle. The commandant-general is
frequently said to hunt them, and by his prowess in these expeditions
he has gained some reputation. Salvadoi'e Vallejo is engaged in
agricultural pursuits, and particularly in raising cattle, w^hich, under
the governor, he has the especial privilege of supplying to vessels,
which he does at prices that insure a handsome profit. In times of

scarcity, vessels are sure to be supplied by applying to the governor,

who will order supplies to be furnished, and even obtain them by com-
pulsion. On my arrival, finding that we wanted supplies, and not
knowing how long (in the event of an accident to our land party) I
might be detained, I was advised to apply to the commandant-general,
through whom I would be sure of obtaining them. I therefore de-
spatched a note by an officer, whom the general treated with great
politeness, and returned for answer, that he could supply me with the
following articles: Lima beans, wheat, potatoes, and other vegetables,
which we had been unable to obtain. Fortunately for us, as well as
for the lower orders and Indians, the party arrived, and we were not
under the necessity of making use of his powerful intervention. The
general, I was told, considers every bushel of grain as much at his
command as he does the persons of the people, and the property of the
state. Zonoma is to be the capital of this country, provided the
general has powder and lives long enough to build it up. An idea has
got abroad that he is looking to the gubernatorial chair, and to be
placed there by the same force that has raised Alvarado and himself
to the posts they now occupy.

Zonoma is on the road that leads to Ross and Bodega; and by this
route Captain Suter has transported all the stock he purchased of the
Russians.

The reality of the hostility said to exist between these two rival
administradors, seems doubtful, at least to the extent reported by the
residents.

The state of society here is exceedingly loose: envy, hatred, and
malice, predominate in almost every breast, and the people are wretched
under their present rulers ; female virtue, I regret to say, is also
at a low ebb ; and the coarse and lascivious dances which meet the
plaudits of the lookers-on, show the degraded tone of manners that

exists.

The mission of San Rafael is in the fertile valley of that name,
about twelve miles from Sausalito, and consists of a larore building:,

o" "-*-*^--'a

with a small chapel at its end; it is in a tolerable state of preser-
vation, and is under the superintendence of an Irishman, named

I

CALIFORNIA. 199

Murphy. He has been put there, from its being considered a place
of emolument, through his interest with the governor, and in order

to pick up the crumbs that are still left. I understood, however, that
Murphy had been disappointed in his expectations, and that it was his
intention to establish himself elsewhere. Padre Kihas resides at this
mission for six months of the year, and performs the duties of priest to
those around it.

On the 24th of October, a fete was given at this place, in honour of
the patron saint; and it was rumoured that there was to be a grand
bull-fight. This spectacle came off accordingly, but was so miserably
conducted as to prevent all kind of sport. The bulls had greatly the
advantage, and the men and horses were tumbled about in a ridi-
culous manner, until they both became quite shy. They had cut off
the tips of the bulls' horns, which was a fortunate circumstance for
both horses and riders, who received no material injury. There was
no bull and bear fight; in consequence, it was understood, of their not
being able to procure one of the latter animals. In the fights between
the bull and bear, it is said that however strong and savage the bull
may be, the bear is always the conqueror: the only part of the bull he
endeavours to attack is the tongue, by seizing which he invariably

proves the victor.

When the fights were over, dancing was resorted to, and continued

during the evening and all night. It was accompanied with hard

drinking and uproarious conduct. Mr. Murphy's entertainment was

considered fully equal to any that had been given for some time, and

particularly the latter part of it, which may be better imagined than

described.

Our duties at this port being completed, I felt desirous of knowing
something of the missions at the south end of the bay of San Francisco,
and, with Captain Hudson, determined to make a visit to them.

We left the Vincennes on the morning of the 29th, at an early
hour, intending to reach the mission of Santa Clara by water. We
stopped a short time at Yerba Buena to see Captain Hinckley and
Mr. Spears, who kindly furnished us with a guide to point out the
passages through the shoals, and the entrance to the creek that leads
up to the Embarcadero, the landing whence the people of the mission
usually ship their hides- We had a fine wind, and went briskly on
until we reached the upper part of the bay, where we found our guide
useless as a pilot The consequence of his incapacity was, that we got
on shore, and were detained so long that night overtook us before we
entered the river Caravallio, that runs in a tortuous direction to the
Embarcadero. Its course more resembled the turns of a corkscrew

200 CALIFORNIA.

than any other thing to which I can liken it. I think we counted
twenty-nine bends before we reached the point at which we were to
disembark, which was nearly at the head of the creek. We were
compelled to haul the boat along by the grass and rushes on each
side, and it was near midnight before we achieved our object- As
we passed through this narrow inlet, the birds that were lodged for
the night, alarmed by the noise we made, flew in thousands from the
marshes. Their fluttering was so great as to resemble the rushing
of a vast wave; for as they rose, thousands seemed to follow thousands,
until the sound died away in the distance, and again seemed to ap-
proach in an opposite direction. In the pitchy darkness, not a bird
was to be seen, although they must have passed only a few feet above

our heads.

At the Embarcadero we found no house or accommodations of any
kind ; but the guide soon led us to what he termed the road, which
was found marked by the huge ruts made by the ox-carts. The
walk was of service to us, as we had become chilled with the cold
and damp air. '

After proceeding a mile over a level plain, we reached the estancia.
The first notice we had of it was a broken coural, and the ground
covered with vast quantities of bones, hoofs, and horns. Over these
we stumbled continually, until, on turning the corner of the coural,
we were set upon by a pack of dogs, some fifty in number, which
barked in every tone, from the snappish note of the pug to the sonorous
voice of the bull-dog. All came forward, intent upon arresting our
progress towards the large adobe building, which was now in dim
outline before us. The bones served us as missiles to keep them at
bay, and thus to protect our approach to the premises; and when we
reached the porch, we gave the discourteous curs a full discharge.
We knocked lustily for some time, but no answer was returned, nor
could we see any light; but on a frequent repetition, each time re-
doubhng our eflbrts, we at last heard light footsteps, and the door was
suddenly opened by a little Indian girl, who ushered us into a large
room, which, from the tables, chairs, and closets with china, we found
to be the salle a manger. Here we had a full view of the interior; and
the light which was burning in the adjacent rooms, showed us the
occupants fast asleep. We had scarcely time to look around us,
when a huge Californian, more than six feet in height, and propor-
tionately large, stalked towards us in his shirt. His whole figure and
countenance indicated a savage, and carried me back at once in idea
to the Feejee cannibals. In a gruff tone he demanded our wants, and
when he had satisfactorily ascertained who we were, and received a

CALIFORNIA. 201

cigar as a token of friendship, he called up the whole family, consisting
of a mother, two daughters, and several other children. These, after
dressing themselves, came forth, and greeted us with genuine hospi-
tality, with such pleasant faces and cheerful talk, that it was really
delightful to find ourselves in such quarters; and our surprise was the
I greater, in consequence of the exterior having proved so uninviting-

They immediately set about providing us w^ith supper, consisting of
tea, tortillas, valdivias, ollas, with eggs and a steak ; and w^hile this
was in preparation by some, others were arranging the beds and
changing the furniture of the sleeping-room. All this was done w^hilst
the mother w^as talking and waiting upon us; and after supper was
over, she pointed to our room, and then excused herself, by saying she
must provide something for the sailors who had accompanied us;
whilst we retired to rest, much fatigued with our jaunt.

The room was furnished differently from w^hat we had been accus-
tomed to, yet it w^as quite comfortable. The only piece of furniture
that was not new to us w'as a high-post bedstead, evidently from our
own country, though bedecked with old Spanish tapestry, in the way
of tester, curtains, and valance. Instead of drawers, there were huge
trunks, that put to shame those of modern construction. These con-
tained the household linen and the finery of the females of the family,
and were raised from the floor, that a broom might be passed under-
neath them. Here and there on the w^alls hung a new-made dress, of
ample dimensions, and several Spanish sombreros, those that were of
more recent date hanging highest; at least I judged them to be the
best ones, from the careful manner in which they were covered up.
There was no wash-stand; but a French ewer and basin, of the lozenge
shape, of white and gold porcelain, w^ere placed on a chair. A single
looking-glass w^as hung high over it, its head inclining outwards. The
dimensions of the frame were small, and the glass still smaller, owing
to a figure of a patron saint occupying the larger part of the upper
surface. Of chairs w^e had five, two with leathern seats and high
backs ; the others were of home manufacture. A large grated win-
dow% well barred with iron, with the thick and massive walls of an
adobe house, gave it the look of security for confinement within, or
against attack from without. Half a dozen coloured prints of the
saints, ten inches square, in black frames, graced the walls.

Our beds, and every thing connected with them, were comfortable ;
and the manner in w hich we had been provided for made the enter-
tainment doubly welcome. We found in the morning that w^e had
occupied the sleeping-room of our hostess and her daughters, and that
they had given it up expressly to accommodate us.
VOL. V. 26

202 CALIFORNIA.

Before going to bed, we had made arrangements to send for liorses
to take us to the mission of Santa Clara, some three miles distant.
None were to be obtained here, as the head of the family was now
away, and had taken with him all those that were kept about the
premises; the rest, we were told, were " muy lejos" (afar off).

The name of the family is Peralto, which is connected with the

early settlement of California, and one of the most respectable in the
country.

We arose about eight o'clock, and consequently missed our choco-
late, which is given at an early hour, and could get no breakfast until
eleven o'clock. Our horses had not arrived, and whilst we were
waiting for them, Seiior Don Miguel Felesfore de Pedrorena arrived
from Yerba Buena, who at once made our acquaintance. He very
kindly offered us his services to arrange matters, and to assist us on
our way to Santa Clara, w^here he was then going. To this gentleman
I feel myself much indebted. We found him a lively, intelligent
companion, and well acquainted with the country and people. He is
supercargo of several vessels on the coast, and extensively engaged in
the peculiar manner of trading, of which I will have occasion to speak
presently.

While horses were

lookiner

around the premises. The house was a long one-story adobe building,
with a thickly thatched roof, forming, by its projection, a piazza in

m

front, supported by columns. There were many enclosures about the
house, that gave it the appearance of a farm-yard and slaughter-house
combined. Bones, hoofs, horns, and pieces of hide, were lying in
every direction, and the ground was indented with the feet of cattle.
Ducks, dogs, and fowls, were picking at the bones and offal. There
were one or two ox-carts, of clumsy proportions, a bee-hive, and a
ley-vat, formed of hide and suspended to four stakes, in the shape of
a large bag, hung near by. At a short distance from the house was
the vegetable-garden, where every thing grew in profusion, although
without care. The only trouble in gardening was to put the seed into
the ground, and await the result. This estancia is situated between
two copses of wood, that grow on the banks of the brook that winds
past it, and nearly join in the rear. In front is a plain, extending
fifteen or twenty miles io the foot of the Sierra, which forms a pleasing
and bold contrast to the flat surface, on which nothing is seen but here
and there a small group of cattle, and immense flocks of wild geese ;
or some shrub, which, owing to the refraction, appears almost detached
from the surface, and with dimensions so much enlarged as to appear
like a great tree. The plain at this time was of a dark hue, soraewha

f

f

CALIFORNIA. 203

resembling a light bronze colour, in consequence of the vegetation
having been scorched up for many months.

About nine o'clock, five horses arrived instead of the eight \vc were
in need of. These were literally the lame, halt, and blind, having
sore backs, and being withal half starved. One had an eye protrud-
ing from its socket, another was without a tail In any other country
and place we should have refused to mount such horses; they were
indeed sorry beasts, and compared with that of Don MigucPs, that had
been in waiting for him, truly deplorable. Of the caparisons I shall
only say, that sheep-skin and raw-hide predominated, although I re-
gretted before the league was passed over that T had not had more of
the former under me. I felt ashamed, even in California, to be thus
mounted. We took leave of our kind hostess with many thanks for
the attention she had showed us, and engaged her to provide an ample
supply for the boats' crews during our absence.

The league between the Embarcadero and Santa Clara occupied us
somewhat over an hour, for it was unbearable to attempt to ride faster
than a walk. After ten o'clock, we came in sight of the mission of
Santa Clara, and as we approached it the little ponds and damp places
on the prairie were literally covered with wild geese, which would
but barely open a way for us to pass through. They were far more
tame than any barn-door geese I ever saw, and I could not easily
divest myself of the idea that they were not domesticated.

The mission of Santa Clara has, at a distance, a respectable
appearance; but on our drawing near the long line of huts, formerly
occupied by the Indians, which are now destroyed, excepting a few,
the ruin and neglect that have taken place are evident enough. The
church and mission-house adjoining have also a dilapidated look ; their
tile roofs and whitewashed walls require extensive repairs, as well as

^

The church flanks the

mission-house on the north, and is about one hundred and fifty feet
long by forty wide, and about fifty feet high ; it is surmounted by a
small steeple. The mission-house is of only one story, with a corridor
extending its whole length, of one hundred and fifty feet. This dwelling
is now occupied both by the administrador and the padre, and a wall
divides the premises into two parts, separating tfie temporal from the
spiritual concerns of the establishment. The padre has his own
servants, cooks, &c.

As we rode up with Don Miguel, we had no need of further
introduction, and shared the kind welcome he received, as an old
acquaintance, who had evidently much to do with the affairs of the
mission, in the way of business. The administrador and his deputy

204 CALIFORNIA,

came forth to greet us, with an ample retinue of attendants, of many
varieties of colour, from the darkest Indian to the pure white. The
administrador is a kind, excellent old man, who has risen from beins:
a corporal in the army, to his present post. I could not learn his
original name. His wife belongs to one of the best families in the
country; and on her marriage with the administrador, she insisted
upon his taking her name, which is Aliza, one of the most distin-
guished in California in bygone days. This, I understood, w^as not
unusual, as the old family pride still predominates among these people.
To the old lady we were soon introduced; her countenance and ap-
pearance bespoke her excellent character, which is well known through-
out California. Nothing could be cleaner or more tidy than her house.
Senor Aliza was too unwell to attend upon us, but his deputy acted
as a substitute for that purpose* Shortly after our arrival, breakfast
was announced, of which, after the ride we had had on our hard
horses, we gladly partook.

This meal was considered by us as rather a h'ght one, and con-
sisted principally of fruit, and small oUas, peppers, &c. What it
lacked in quantity was made up in quality. This was according to
the usage of the country, and although Don Miguel wished to speak
to Seilora Aliza, with reference to a larger si:jpply, we refused to give
her any more trouble than could be avoided. She had prepared the
whole with her own hands, and prided herself on her admirable
management and cookery. Few certainly could equal her in the
preparation of stews and delicate high-flavoured dishes; but of each
there was but a mouthful, and the deputy took good care to have

more than his fair proportion. After breakfast, T strolled around the
premises, and saw our good hostess busily engaged in directing her
domestic concerns. The rear of the mission forms a quadrangle
of low sheds, in which the domestic manufacture of candles, pre-
serves, baking, and a variety of other duties, are performed. In
these were some ten or fifteen Indians busily employed, and although
clean, they did not excel so much in this respect as the interior
of the main building, which appeared to be entirely under her own

keeping.

Don Miguel proposed to us to make a visit to Padre Mercador, and
that he might not be taken by surprise, a messenger was sent to ask
at what hour he would be ready to receive us. This ceremony is
deemed necessary, for the duties of the padre are considered here to
be of such a nature as to preclude intrusion. Our messenger speedily
returned with an intimation that he would be glad to have us pay
him our visit at once. We were soon ushered into the small stud^

I

I

<

CALIFORNIA. 205

Mercado

He is of

the Franciscan order, good-looking, portly, and possesses a cheerful
and intelligent countenance. Having Don Miguel to interpret in
Spanish, and the padre speaking a little French, we made out to
converse very well. His study is small, but contains many works of
the old fathers, with several French authors, and comprises some six
or seven hundred volumes. He showed us the different returns from
the missions prior to 1828, but no attention had been paid since that
date to the preservation of statistics. In Appendix VIL, I have in-

serted one, in which the state of all

Uppe

California is given, and which embraces not only their population but
also the quantity of produce raised. This table will give an idea also
of the management of the directors of the missions before the revolu-
tion. Since 1828, as already stated, the missions have been on
the decline, and no returns have been given in, as was formerly
required.

The padre spoke with resignation in relation to the manner in
which the missions had been despoiled, and did not express any sur-
prise that such things should have happened under their present
rulers.

Padre Mercador served us with wine and fruit ; of the latter, the
pears were delicious. Don Miguel having notified me that it was
expected our party should ask to see the church, I made the request ;
and the padre having supplied himself with a large bunch of keys,
ushered us through several narrow passages, to the door of the vestry-
room in the rear, into which we entered. Several pairs of massive
candlesticks of sih^er were standing about on tables, and around the
room were large trunks, which he opened, and showed us the rich
altar-pieces, costly robes, and fine laces, which they contained. Many
of the former were most magnificently embroidered in gold and silver,
and composed of substantial silks and satins of divers colours. The
splendour of the wardrobe was out of character with the smallness of
the church ; and on my remarking it, he said these things were for
processions, to have effect upon " los gentiles " One or two small pic-
tures that hung in this room were worthy of notice. Don Miguel
asserted that he thought if I desired them, there would be no great
difficulty in procuring any article that could be spared. I had no dis-
position to authorize him to make the attempt ; but this suggestion
tends to show in how little regard the obliging padre was held by the
community. We u^xt passed into the church, the whole length of
which was thrown into one, without any columns. At one end is the
altar, and at the other the choir, which the padre informed me con-

s

206 CALIFORNIA.

sisted of some eighty Indians, who are daily in practice. He said that
the Indians were fond of music, had good ears, and little difficulty was
found in teaching it to them. In making the selections of performers,
they generally took those whose physical qualifications seenied best
adapted to the particular instrument, and practice did the rest- In
this way, such music as pleased the Indians and people of the country,
and which therefore answered his purposes, was produced- The chapel
is painted in fresco, or I should rather say daubed, by a young artist
of Mexico. The saints are all represented in full costume, and the
scenes depicted are those most likely to attract the attention and wonder
of the neophytes. The whole has a gaudy and unsightly appearance.
We parted from Padre Mercador at the church door, knowing it was
about the hour of his noon service ; and received from him a pressing
invitation to visit him in the evening, to play a game of chess, of which
he said he was very fond.

We now returned to the administrador, whom we found enveloped
in his large overcoat, with a white nightcap on his head, waiting in
his salle a manger to receive us, and afford us entertainment* Don
Miguel gave us the secret of this movement, saying, that his wife,
after our arrival in the morning, had persuaded him to go to bed ; but
he could not resist the opportunity that now offered itself, of telling his
old stories over again to willing listeners ; and we had scarcely taken
our seats, before he began a full account of his birth, parentage, &c.,
and was about relating his adventures in full, when the bell tolled noon.
He immediately sprang upon his feet, faced the south, and began to
cross himself, and repeat a prayer with great volubihty. In this ex-
ercise he continued for a few minutes, until he heard the last taps of
the bell Of this we took advantage to break up his discourse ; which,
notwithstanding sundry efforts on his part, we succeeded in doing, and
it was not long before we heard he was again in bed. His deputy
answered all our questions, and assured me that he was well acquainted
with the concerns of the mission, for he had heard them very often
repeated by the administrador during the last few years.

The deputy now conducted us through the garden, which is sur-
rounded by a high adobe wall, and has a gate that is always kept
locked. It was from one and a half to two acres in extent, and mostly
planted with grapes, which are cultivated after the Spanish fashion,
dthout trellises: some of the fruit was yet hanging, and was generally
of the sweet Malaga kind. Our guide informed me that the mission

w

took the first picking, for the manufacture of wine and to preserve,
then the inhabitants, the women of the "gente de razon," and after
wards the children. Strict watch was, however, kept that they did

t

CALIFORNIA. 007

not pull the other fruit. Only a certain number are allowed to work in
the garden, and the whole is placed under the constant superintcndeiice
of a gardener. It would be almost impossible to protect the fruit other-
wise. They have fruit of all kinds, both of the tropical and tem-
perate climate, which they represented as succeeding admirably well.
A few barrels of wine are made, but nothing can be more rude than
their whole process of manufacturing it. The tillage is performed
with ploughs that we should deem next to useless ; they are nothing
but a crooked piece of timber, four to six
inches square, somewhat in the shape of our
ploughs, which merely serves to loosen the "^ "
ground to a depth of three or four inches ; but in such a soil, and in
this level land, this rude implement answers the purpose, and produces
crops on an average of from sixty to eighty for one. The ploughs are
drawn by oxen, and are well adapted to the Indians, who more readily
learn to use them than they w^ould more complicated machines.

After spending some time in the garden, we were recalled to dinner;
and if we had cause to complain of the slightness of the breakfast, the
dinner made ample amends, every variety of dish being abundant and
admirably prepared. Don Miguel congratulated himself and us that
the administrador was not in a fit state to prevent us from enjoying it,
by the everlasting narration of his adventures. Senora Aliza had quite
surpassed even her usual good feasts in this dinner, which called forth
much praise from our companion.

At the missions throughout the country four meals are daily taken :
at an early hour, chocolate; at eleven o'clock, breakfast; at two,
dinner ; and at seven, supper. The dinner and supper are the principal
meals, and at them the Californians indulge to a great extent.

After our meal was finished, Don Miguel, having some business at
the Pueblo of San Jose, about a league from Santa Clara, he invited us
to accompany him thither. After some difficulty in procuring horses,
we set out on sorry nags, and on leaving the mission entered an avenue
lined on each side with large trees. These I understood had been
planted at an early day, by one of the padres, in order to protect the
people from the sun during the celebration of the church festivals, and
to leave no excuse to the inhabitants of the pueblo for not visiting the

mission church.

Just before arriving at the pueblo, we crossed over one of the tor-
tuous branches of the Rio Guadaloupe, some twenty feet wide, and had
a view of the pueblo. It seemed as if this were a gala-day, and as if
every one were abroad celebrating it on the banks o( this river, or
rather creek ; the overflow of which had served to keep the grass green

208 CALIFORNIA.

for a considerable space around. Instead of its* being a festival, it
turned out to be the general washing-day of the village ; and the long
lines, trees, bushes, &c., were all hung with the many^coloured
garments, which, with the crowds of men, women, and children, and
some cattle, seen moving to and fro, or gathered in small groups, gave
the whole quite a pleasing effect. I was told that the pueblo of San
Jose had a larger number of inhabitants than any other in Upper Cali-
fornia ; but as we rode into it, it seemed almost deserted, and I would
willingly have gone back and amused myself with the scene on the
green, if Don Miguel had not represented to me, that his standing would
be very much affected if we did not at once proceed to the alcalde's.
We accordingly rode up to his house, a very pretty two-storied edifice,
of a light-cream colour, in the centre of the main street, and directly
opposite a new church that they are erecting. The alcalde gave us a
cordial reception. His first appearance was that of a French pastry-
cook, W'ith his white cap and apron. He was a short, dapper, rosv-
cheeked man, by birth a Frenchman, but had been now twenty years
settled in the pueblo; was married, and had eleven children, who
looked as healthy and as dirty as one would wish to see them- The
moment he understood who his visiters were, he did us the honour to
doff his white cap and apron; and shortly after appeared in a round-
about, very much ornamented with braid, &c. The only name I heard
him called by, was Don Pedro. He spoke his native language imper-
fectly, using a great many Spanish words with it, and told me that he
had nearly forgotten it. From him I learned that the pueblo contained
six hundred inhabitants, about forty of whom were whites. He described

r

himself as the " sous-pr^fet," and said that he administered justice,
inflicted punishment, and had the ability to make the inhabitants happy,
as he thought they should be. On my asking, by what laws he admi-
nistered justice, his answer was, — by what he thought right* He had
very little trouble, except guarding against the attacks of the Indians
and preventing them from stealing horses, of which he had great fears ;
he had, therefore, provided for the safety of his own by keeping them
in a small shed attached to his house, and within a locked gate.

He considered the pueblo as in danger of attacks from the Indians,
who were now in great numbers wulhin striking distance, and had
become very troublesome of late in driving off horses, of which they
had lost three or four hundred, and he said that pursuit was impossible,
as they now had no troops. I was not satisfied that the alcalde was
the bravest man in the world, or that he thought much of the interests

r

of those over whom he had sway. Don Miguel gave him the character
of being a good customer, and generally punctual in his payments. He

{

CALIFORNIA. 209

entertained us with wine and beer of his own making, and showed us
the copy-books of his children, \vho were in pot-hooks and trammels,
which he looked upon as a wonderful advancement in the education of
the country. Some half-dozen books were all they owned in the
pueblo ; but to make up for this deficiency, the alcalde told me they
were all very happy, and that there were but few quarrels, for those in
w^hich stabs were inflicted did not occur oftener than once a fortnight.
We took our departure a short time before sunset, amidst the gathering
in of the villagers, with their goods and chattels, to a place of safety.
There are two Americans settled here, who own mills, but I was not
fortunate enough to meet with them; the alcalde, however, gave them
good characters. The evening was a beautiful one, and we had a
delightful ride back to the mission; and our horses, knowing they were
on their return, were quite mettlesome.

The mode of conducting business in this country is peculiar. Ves-
sels, on reaching the coast, employ as a supercargo or travelling
agent, some person well known throughout the country, who visits all
the pueblos, missions, and estancias, as a traveller, passing from place
to place without any apparent object of business. He thus has an
opportunity of inspecting the worldly affairs of those to whom he
desires to sell ; and if he finds them apparently thrifty, he produces
his card of patterns, and soon induces a disposition on the part of his
host or hostess to buy, being careful to secure in payment as much of
their w^orldly goods as he can, and trusting them for the rest of the
indebtedness. A few live cattle delivered by each purchaser at the
neighbouring pueblo, become by this means a large herd, which is
committed to cattle-tenders on shares, who in due time slaughter them
and deliver the hides. A large amount of goods is thus disposed of,
to a very considerable profit. Large cargoes, consisting of a variety
of articles, of both American and English manufacture, are thus sold.
From the state of the country, it has been difficult to obtain payments
or returns in money; but the debts have been paid in cattle, and pro-
bably will turn out well, when the rains return and allow the animals
to be again slaughtered. When hides are given in payment, they are
valued at two dollars, and are. at all times the common currency of the
country. No money is in circulation, unless what is paid out by the
foreign merchants; and in lieu of change, an extra quantity of goods
is taken, which excess is usually to the disadvantage of the buyer.

On our return to Santa Clara, we had to procure horses for our
journey back by land. We had been tofd by the admznistrador and
nis deputy, that there would be no difficulty in the mission providing
us with horses and saddles ; and under this assurance, we had de-

VOL. V. S 2 27

210 CALIFORNIA.

spatched our boats on their return to the ship, determining to make the
ride of sixty miles the next day. We soon found that the mission
horses were lame, and that they had strayed* These, with many
other excuses, all showed us the dilemma we were in. Three or more
messengers were pretended to be sent to the pueblo and the neigh
bouring estancias ; and after much delay and several feigned disap-
pointments, w^e were told that six animals might be procured. The
exorbitant price of four dollars for each was asked for the use of these.
A good horse may be purchased for eight dollars. As I at once saw
the game that was in progress, I thought it better to comply with
a good grace, than perhaps to suffer farther imposition ; so six were
agreed for at four dollars each, for the next day. I was well aware
that the deputy was deeply in the plot, and probably shared a part of
the profits-
Being disengaged in the evening, we went early to Padre Mer-
cador's to play chess, for which he has more love than knowledge.
He had boasted not a little of his prowess, but after suffering defeat
in three successive games, his opinion of his skill was somewhat
lessened. He was in fact but a novice in the game. For refresh-
ments we had brandy and wine, with cigars and fruit, of which the
hospitable padre and Don Miguel both partook most freely, particu-
larly the former. We remained until nine o'clock, when a message
was brought us that supper was ready, and we retired, leaving Padre
Mercador to resume the duties of his office. For his kindness and
attentions we were greatly indebted to him; I wish I could say that
his mode of life and the influence he exerts over his charge, also de-
served commendation.

At the head of the supper-table, we found Donna Aliza, with a huge
dish of smoking valdivias before her, and a variety of edibles, with an
infusion of tea in small cups, which, at the request of Don Miguel, w^as
added to until it became drinkable, but not without many exclamations
against its extravagance. The poor husband was in bed, and Captain
Hudson, who went to see him, finding that he was suffering from a
severe cold he had taken, prescribed bathing his feet, and a strong
glass of hot whiskey punch. Don Miguel accordingly prepared the
latter, which was cheerfully taken by the patient, who shortly after-
wards fell into a sound sleep. In the morning, we found that he was

entirely recovered.

Our beds were clean and comfortable, though the apartment had n
strong smell of cordovan leather. The only place of deposit for cloth
ing, &c., was, as we had seen in the estancia, in large trunks. Ths
matin-bell aroused us at early dawn, when we heard the full choir

CALIFORNIA. 211

practising. There was certainly nothing earthly in the sound, nor yet
heavenly; much noise, but little music.

We were up betimes, but were threatened with disappointment in
our horses. The kind and attentive Donna Aliza served us with choco-
late and toast, and prepared cold tongues, chickens, and ample stores
of bread for our use. At last the horses, together with the Indians
who were to accompany us, made their appearance, and out of the
number, I recognised at least three that belonged to the administra-
dor, as I had been led to believe would be the case the evening before.
His good wife ordered us their best saddles, but without the pillions
or saddle-cloths.

After an hour's preparation, we took our leave and galloped off, in
company with Don Miguel, who proposed to accompany us some six
or seven miles, on our way to visit some of his herds; that were then
feeding on the prairie. We had not proceeded far before we were
overtaken by the person who had them in charge, coming at a furious
gallop. He was mounted on the best horse I had seen in the country,
and dressed after the Californian fashion, in a dark brown cloth jacket,
thickly braided, both before and behind, with slashed sleeves, showing
his shirt elegantly embroidered, both on the breast and sleeves; velvet

breeches of bright blue, secured around his waist with a red sash, and
open at the sides, ornamented with braid and brass bells, in abundance;
below the knee he wore leather leggins, fastened with garters, worked
in silver, and below these, shoes, over which were fastened large silver
spurs, with the heavy rowels of the country ; on his head was tied a
red bandana handkerchief, and over that a huge broad-brimmed som

brero, with peaked crown, covered with an oil-silk cloth; the whole
decorated with cords, aiguillettes, and ribands, with a guard-cord pass-
ing under the chin. His horse was equally well caparisoned, the bridle
being decked with silver, as were the tips of his large w^ooden stirrups;
with pillions and saddle-cloths in abundance. Few riders had so gay
an air, or seemed to have so perfect a command of the animal he
rode ; and until we arrived at the wood where his Indians were look-
ing out, he was an object of great attraction, assuming all the airs and
graces of a person of high rank.

After galloping for several miles, we reached a few trees and
bushes, that are designated as the ** woods." Near by was a large
herd of cattle feeding. The Rancheros we found lying about, in

■bone of an ox roasting
over it ; the skulls, bones, and offal, lay about, with hides here and
there pegged to the ground,* Some score of dogs were disputing

• The hides of the cattle that die, or that are killed for food, are cured in this way.

212 CALIFO RNI A.

over that last killed, and the ground around seemed alive with cranes,
crows, &c., acting as scavengers, and disputing for their shares.
There is no smell except that of raw beef; the climate is so dry that
no putrid matter exists, but the sight is unpleasant enough to those who
have not become accustomed to it.

Previous to setting out, we provided our saddles with extra sheep-
skins; we now took leave of Don Miguel, with many thanks for his
attentions, and a hearty shake of the hand. We soon found that our
horses began to fag from the effects of our bad riding, and the fatigued
and wretched condition they w^ere in; and by the time we arrived at
Las Pulgas, w^e found it necessary to change, and were glad to have
a temporary relief from our saddles. Any one w^ho has ever ridden
upon a Californian saddle, with but a slender covering to it, will be
able to understand our feelings. We were besides but ill provided
for the trip, which our nags seemed not slow to discover. We had
no well-armed heels, and were, besides, deficient in whips, both in-
dispensable to a rider in California, The consequence was, that they
could not be made to move along, without most laborious efforts of
bodily strength.

The country we passed through was at this time destitute of both
water and grass, and the weather uncomfortably warm. In places
we found it picturesque, from the scattered oaks, laurels, &c., though
to all appearance entirely unfit for cultivation. Wherever there was
any running water, a pond, or vegetation, large flocks of geese and
ducks w^ere seen. At four o'clock, we entered the estancia of Senor
Sanchez, to whom Don Miguel had given us a note of introduction,
desiring that he would aid us if we wanted horses. We had looked
forward to this point with hope, in the belief that our troubles in riding
such forlorn beasts would terminate, and that our bodies as well as
our minds would be set at rest.

The word estancia seems to give one an idea of something more
extensive than a small farm: it sounds more noble and w^ealthy; but
whatever had been our opinion before, the reality disappointed us.
Senor Sanchezes estancia at a distance was quite a respectable-looking
building; the broad shadow cast by its projecting roof gave it a
substantial and solid appearance; but a nearer approach dispelled
these favourable impressions, and showed its uncouth proportions, as
well as the neglect in which the whole was kept. The way to the
house, which stands on a knoll, leads through miry places, and over
broken-down fences, winding around dilapidated ox-carts, over troughs,
old baskets, dead hogs, dogs, and fowls, all huddled together. Rude
articles of husbandry occupied the sides of the building. Seeing no one.

CALIFORNIA.

213

we dismounted, tied our horses, and began to search for inhabitants.
All the houses were unfinished : to the doors of some there were no
steps, and no floors to the rooms of others ; the adobes were bare, and
destitute of plaster or whitewash ; and what was more disheartening,
no inhabitants made their appearance. At last a slave was seen crawl-
ing from a wretched hole, whom we followed to the only place which
yet remained unsearched, a distant corner of the premises, where we
found the family, consisting of a mother and daughter. The latter was
a nice-looking girl, to whom our note was handed, and who read it
aloud to her mother, who did not recognise the name of Don Miguel.
Whether this arose from design or ignorance, I know not ; but the note
produced no apparent effect: however, after a few compliments, and a
little persuasion, through our servant^ (who spoke Spanish \\e\],) the
mother was somewhat softened, and w^e procured a tumbler of milk
and a tortilla ; but we could not induce her to allow us to take from
the fifty horses that were then in the coural, the few we required. Her
constant answ^er was, that her husband w^as not at home, and she could
not do it. We strayed about the kitchen, which was the only apart-
nient fit for occupation, and warmed ourselves over the small fire that
had been lighted, for the air was becoming chilly and damp. This
apartment was lighted from the door and a small window; it was
furnished with numerous stew-holes and ovens, which appeared very
convenient for cooking ; and above them were placed shelves, on which
the pans of milk were resting. In the centre was a large mortar, and
beyond it, at the far end, quite in the dark, the rude grist-mill of the
country. To the long shaft of the mill a small donkey was harnessed.
This place apparently answered also as a stable. The whole had quite
a primitive look, and showed, at least, some comfort and forethought.
During our examinations, in came the husband, very unexpectedly to
his wife and daughter, as well as to ourselves. He had the face of a
ruffian. After many suspicious looks and questions, he gave his con
sent, though very unwillingly, to supply us with horses. Lest it should
be supposed that this man was the owner of the estancia, I must here
say that Senor Sanchez was not at home ; although I am not prepared
to vouch, from what I heard afterwards, that our treatment at his hands
would have been any better. We were told that it was but a short
two hours' ride to Yerba Buena, and we hoped to reach it before dark
We therefore made haste to secure fresh horses, and soon took our
departure. The horses were but sorry-looking animals, and I must own
that the thanks for them were very difficult to utter.

We had scarcely gone beyond the " a dies" of our ill-looking friend,
when the steed of Captain Hudson came to a stand, and no persua-

214

CALIFORNIA,

sion, whipping, or spurring, could induce him to move. It was then
discovered that he was blind, and in attempting to move him we found
he was lame also. My servant John was then directed to change, as
he was the best horseman of the three, and after a trial of patience,
succeeded in getting him along-
After dark we reached the house of Mr. Spears, at Yerba Buena.
We were barely able to dismount, having had one of the roughest and
most fatiguing rides I ever experienced- A warm welcome from our
countryman at Yerba Buena, and a seat at his hospitable board, soon
refreshed us. My boat being in waiting, we embarked, and reached
the Vincennes at two o'clock in the morning, greatly fatigued, yet
highly gratified with our jaunt to the mission of Santa Clara.

Finding all those belonging to Lieutenant Emmons's party had now
joined the ship, preparations for sea were at once made, I shall now
take up the operations in Southern Oregon, which will form the subject
of the following chapter.

SACRAMENTO INDIANS GAMBLi:

CHAPTER VL

CONTENTS.

EaUtPMENT OF UEUTENANT EMMONS'S PARTV - MULTUNOMAH ISLAND - DIFFI-
CULTIES — SICKNESS — INEFFICrENCY OF SOME OF THE MEN -SETTLERS ON THE
WILLAMETTE -MISSIONARIES -THOMAS M'KAY- DEPARTURE FROM THE WILLA-
METl'E — ENCAMPMENT AT TURNER'S — UPPER VALLEY OF THE WILLAMETTE —
CREOLE AND IGXAS CREEKS— LAKE GUARDIPII- WOLVES-MALE CREEK— ELK MOUN-
TAINS-ELK RIVER-FORT UMPQUA— HOSTILE BEARING OF THE INDIANS— PREPARA-
TIONS FOR DEFENCE— NEW SPECIES OF OAK— DISCONTENT OF THE TRAPPERS— FIRE
IN THE PRAIRIES — BILLEY'S CHEEK — FORD OP THE UMPQUA — ANIMALS— INDIAN

SCOUTS — GRISLY BEARS — INDIAN FOUND IN THE CAMP — UMPQUA MOUNTAINS —
SHASTE COUNTRY — YOUNG'S CREEK — PINE SUGAR — ROGUIS' RIVER - INASS SUR-
. PRISED BY INDIANS — SCENES OF FORMER CONFLICTS WITH INDIANS — FRIENDLY

* INDIANS - SUFFERINGS FROM THE AGUE — THREATENED ATTACK — ANTELOPES —

RABBITS — BOUNDARY MOUNTAINS — EMMONS'S PEAK - MOUNT SHASTE — KLAMET
RIVER— INTERVIEW WITH INDIANS— SHASTE INDIANS— THEIR SKILL IN ARCHERY—

r

SHASTE RANGE — LARGE PINES — CHALVBEATE SPRING — DESTRUCTION RIVER —
VALLEY OF THE SACRAMENTO — KINKLA INDIANS — THEIR VILLAGE-FAILURE TO
OBTAIN CANOES-FORD OF THE SACRAMENTO-BUTES— FEATHER RIVER — CAPTAIN
SUTER'S-RELICS OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE-THE PARTY DIVIDED— RIVER SAN JOACHIM
—MISSION OF SAN JOSE— SANTA CLARA- VERBA BUENA— NOSTRA SES'ORA DE JJOS
DOLORES— THE LAND DIVISION REACHES THE VINCENNES-RESULTS OF THE EXPE-
DITION-CLOSING SCENE.

(915)

1

f

CHAPTER VL

SOUTHERN OREGON.

1841.

The last chapter closfed with the arrival of Lieutenant Emmons and
his party at San Fz^ancisco. I shall now give some account of the
operations of tJiis party, and of the country they passed through. The
difficulties w^hich were experienced in the organization of the party,
have already been alluded to in another place, and need not be re-
peated. There remain to be described some of the articles of his
equipment, in the preparation of which much time was consumed, and
which were absolutely necessary for the success of the expedition.
The principal part of the provision w^as flour; this is packed in sacks;
the sacks are again enclosed in a "parflesh" made of hide, to protect
them from being torn to pieces by the boughs of trees and underwood;
this rests upon a pack-saddle, by which the load is firmly secured on
the horse ; while, to protect his back from injury, a thick saddle-cloth
called " appichemens^' lies beneath the pack-saddle. These articles
are represented in the annexed cut.

APPICHEM5;.VS.

rACK- SADDLE,

SACK,

PARFLESH.

To these are to be added the trail-rope and lash-cord, six or eight
fathoms in length. These trails drag on the ground, and are intended
for the purpose of catching the horses. Now, all these articles were
to be prepared in a countrv where no mechanic" is to be found; and

vnr.v. T ' 28 ^2^'>

218 SOUTHERN OREGON,

so indispensable are they, that any party which sets out without them
would in all probability be compelled to return-

Our gentlemen, when they left Vancouver, proceeded by the way of
the Hudson Bay Company's farm on Multunomah or Wapautoo Island,
which is near the place where Captain Wyeth had erected his fort.
They then crossed the river and went towards the Faulitz Plains,
passing on their route a large grazing farm belonging to the Company,
and those of many settlers. From these they were supplied with fresh
horses. They found the country beautiful, and the land rich. Their
route lay over hills and through prairies. The hills were wooded
with large pines and a thick undergrowth of rose-bushes, Rubus,
Dogwood, and Hazel. The prairies were covered with variegated
flowers, and abounded in Nuttallia, Columbines, Larkspurs, and bul-
bous-rooted plants, which added to the beauty, as well as to the novelty
of the scenery.

Some sickness had made its appearance among the members of the
party. Messrs. Emmons, Peale, Rich, and Agate, all had attacks of
ague and fever, and the two last-named gentlemen suffered much from
this disease. Dr. Whittle ascribed these attacks to the Ifength of time,
nearly five weeks, during which they had been encamped on the
Willamette, and particularly to the position of the camp, immediately
on the bank of the river, where it was subject to the damp and fogs.

When the party set out, new difficulties arose from the fact that the
horses had for some time been unused to saddles or packs, and from
the awkwardness of the riders- Corporal Hughes of the marines, one
of the party, was thrown from his horse, which took fright at some
wild animals crossing his path. The pack-horses were missing, and
caused much difficulty in hunting them up; one, when found, had
waded into a creek with pack and all, and stood there with only his
head out of water. At this an old hunter became enraged, and spring-
ing into the water, thrust his thumb into the horse's eye; the pain of
which treatment caused the animal to leap up the opposite bank with
great agility, leaving part of his load behind. The part thus left
proved to be the medicines prepared for the party; but these were
recovered, and being in phials were not materially injured. On reach-
ing the first encampment, Smith the marine and his horse were both
missing: to guide him, guns were fired during the night; but he did
not make his appearance. In the morning, parties were sent in search
of him and the pack-animals. In the afternoon, the marine made his
appearance, without any other loss than the ramrod of his musket ; he
had passed the night in the woods. This same man, a day or two
after, reported to Lieutenant Emmons that he had lost his riding-

SOUTHERX OREGON.

219

horse: he was very properly told to go in search of him, and if he
could not find him, to return to Vancouver, as he was too helpless to
be of any use. This had the desired effect, and from that day forth, he
proved a useful man. There were many other annoyances and difficul-
ties that Lieutenant Emmons's patience and perseverance overcame.

^
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During the time of their stay, Mr. Agate made many sketches.
One of these is of a burying-place, which I have thought worth insert-
ing, as exhibiting one of the peculiar features of a race which is now
fast disappearing. The mode of burial seems to vary with almost
every tribe : some place the dead above ground, while others bury
their departed friends, surrounding the spot with a variety of utensils
that had been used by the deceased.

The graves are covered with boards, in order to prevent the wolves
from disinterring the bodies. The emblem of a squaw's grave is
generally a cammass-root digger, made of a deer's horns, and fastened
on the end of a stick.

From the delay of the party in the Willamette Valley, they became

i

220 SOUTHERN OREGON.

well acquainted with the various characters of the people who were
settled tliere. They generally consist of those who have been hunters
in the mountains, and were still full of the recklessness of that kind
of life. Many of them, altliough they have taken farms and built
log houses, cannot be classed among the permanent settlers, as they
are ever ready to sell out and resume their old occupation, when an
opportunity offers. Our party found them, with one or two exceptioiis
well disposed.

The gentlemen of the party, who had more time and opportunity
to become acquainted with the operations of the missionaries than I
had, were less favourably impressed than myself. One of the prin-
cipal complaints of tFie settlers against the members of the mission
w^as, that they never had any religious service, although several
ministers of the mission were unemployed. This complaint, how-
ever, could not be made on our part ; for, the first Sunday the party
was encamped, the Rev. Mr. Leslie invited them all to his house for
that purpose, which invitation was accepted. Tibbats, one of the
party, was sitting by an open window during the sermon, and, as
many have done before him, was nodding, in which motion he threw
his head back and struck the stick that supported the sash, which
coming down suddenly, caught him by the neck. This accident
occasioned no small disturbance in the congregation, but no injury
resulted from it to the man, who was inclined to join in the laugh
that unavoidably took place after he was extricated. This anec-
dote will show the character of the class of settlers which the mis-
sionaries would have to deal with, and I am inclined to believe that
for the neglect of duty imputed to them, those who make the charge
are themselves chiefly to blame.

It was the general impression of our party, hovt^ever, that the field
for a mission was but small, and not sufficient to warrant the ex-
penses that have been lavished upon it- Their school was in opera-
tion, and included twenty pupils in all Dr. Babcock mentioned
to one of our gentlemen that he had a native boy for a servant, of
whose qualifications and education he spoke, saying that it was a
o-reat trouble to get him into cleanly habits, such as washing his face
and hands in the morning, before he milked the cow. He next taught
him to make a fire, boil a tea-kettle, and make tea ; he then taught him
to fry and bake; he could wash clothes, and would in a short time be

able to iron.

AW our gentlemen experienced the same kind treatment and good

fiire that I have before spoken of, and nothing seemed to be wanting

in the wav of substantial comforts.

SOUTHERN OREGON. 221

The party, including Passed Midshipmen Eld and Colvocoressis,
Messrs. Dana, Brackenridge, and the sergeant, proceeded up the
Willamette river. They reached Champooing on tlic 3d, where they
disembarked. In the morning they were taken to the house of Thomas
M'Kay, wlio is one of the most noted persons in this valley, particularly
among the mountain trappers. He is a man of middle age, tall, well-
made, and of muscular frame, with an expression of energy and daring,
and a deep-set, piercing black eye, beneath a full projecting eyebrow.
Among the trappers he is the hero of many a tale, and is himself prone
to indulge his guests wath his personal adventiires. He lives in a house
that answers both for a dwelling and grist-mill, and is said to be the
best belonging: to a settler in the valley. This man was eno:a2:ed to

GO

go as guide ; and, w hat speaks little for his veracity and principles, at
the last moment refused to do so, and afterwards made his boast that
he had fooled the party, as he had not intended to go from the first
His harvest had just been reaped, which he said had produced him

twenty-five bushels to the acre. M'Kay furnished them with horses,
and accompanied the party to the camp, where they arrived early in
the afternoon. Here all was preparation for a speedy departure, and
every one fully occupied with packs, saddles, and trappings. On the
7th, the party made their final move, and after travelling only six
miles, encamped near Turner's, known as the mission butcher. He
owns a farm, in the acceptation of the word in Oregon, having a
log-hut, an Indian w^oman to reside in it, and an undefined quantity of
land. The hut contains no furniture to sit or lie upon, and only the
few articles most needed in cooking. He does not cultivate any thing,
but supports himself by killing cattle semi-weekly. Report says that
he was formerly a drummer in the United States service, but for
upwards of thirteen years he has led the sort of life he now does. He
seems both contented and independent, and appears an honest and
good-natured fellow. He has had several narrow escapes, having
been twice with parties that were attacked by the southern Indians, in
the passage to and from California. The last time he was one of four
who escaped, subsisted on berries and roots for a fortnight, and was
obliged to travel only at night, to avoid the Indians who were in
search of him. He furnished our party with fresh beef of his own
stock, refusing to receive pay, and seemed very much incensed that
the mission should have charared for what had been obtained from
them.

The country in the southern part of the Willamette Valley, stretches
out into wild prairie-ground, gradually rising in the distance into low
undulating hills, which are destitute of trees, except scattered oaks;

T2

222 SOUTHERN OREGON,

these look more like orchards of fruit trees, planted by the hand of
man, than groves of natural growth, and serve to relieve the eye from
the yellow and scorched hue of the plains. The meanderings of the
streams may be readily followed by the growth of trees on their banks
as far as the eye can see.

They were detained here by the straying of their animals, and did
not succeed in getting off until the next day, when Turner gave them
two of his horses, being willing to run the risk of recovering the lost
ones in their stead.

On the morning of the 9th, they had a severe frost. In the course
of the day they passed Creole creek, and encamped on the Ignas
The atmosphere during the day had become quite thick, owing to the
smoke arising from the burning of the prairie. Here they prepared
themselves fully for their journey, by trimming their horses' hoofs
and taking a full account of them. The soil was a red decomposer
basalt, Avell adapted for grazing and w^heat lands.

On the 10th, the country was somewhat more hilly than the day
previous, but still fine grazing land- During the day they crossed
many small creeks. The rocks had now changed from a basalt to a
whitish clayey sandstone. The soil also varied with it to a grayish-
orown, instead of the former chocolate-brown colour, which was
thought to be an indication of inferior quality. The country had an
uninviting look, from the fact that it had lately been overrun by fire,
which had destroyed all the vegetation except the oak trees, which
appeared not to be injured.

On the 11th, after passing during the day Lake Guardipii, which is
about five hundred yards long, they encamped on the Lumtumbuff
river, which is a branch of the Willamette. This river is a deep and
turbid stream, branching out in places like a lake, but being in general
narrow and fordable.

On the 12th, the route was across a parched-up prairie, some por-
tions of which w^ere composed of gravel and white sand, mixed with
clay. The paths w^erc very rough, owing to the soil, which was much
cut up by the herds that had been driven through ; and w hich, on be-
coming hard, was exceedingly fatiguing to the horses. Bands of
wolves were met with, and w^ere heard throughout the night howling
in various parts of the prairies. The cry of these animals is peculiar:
one sets up a long shrill whine, three or four join in, and in a few mo-
ments afterwards, the whole pack utter a sort of sharp yelp, which
gives the idea of a half-laughing, half-crying chorus. The party had
hitherto made from fifteen to twenty miles a day; and in travelling
this day, the animals suffered a great deal from want of water* They

I

SOUTHERN OREGON.

223

encamped on the Male creelv, which was about thirty feet wide, and
ran in a northerly direction,

On the 13th, they had much difficulty in finding their horses, which
had escaped the guards at night, owing to the thick fog that prevailed.
They were in consequence unable to go forward until three o'clock in
the afternoon; some of the animals had gone six miles back on the
trail in search of water, and were found in the vicinity of marshy
places. Messrs. Emmons and Eld had employed the hours of this de-
tention in getting dip and intensity observations. In consequence of
this mishap, they were unable to make more than two miles during the
day, which continued hot and foggy.

Some wandering Callapuyas came to the camp, w^ho proved to be
acquaintances of Warfields' wife : they were very poorly provided
with necessaries. Mr, Agate took a characteristic drawing of one of
the old men.

COSTUME OF A CAIXAFUVA ISmXS.

These Indians w^ere known to many of the hunters, who manifested
much pleasure at meeting with their old acquaintances, each vying
with the other in affording them and their wives entertainment by
sharing part of their provisions with them. This hospitality showed
them in a pleasing light, and proved that both parties felt the utmost
good-wnll towards each other. The Indians were for the most part

224 SOUTHERN OREGON.

clothed in deer-skins, with fox-skin caps, or cast-off clothing of the
whites ; their arms, except in the case of three or four, who had rifles,
were bows and arrows, similar to those I have described as used at
the north ; their arrows were carried in a quiver made of seal-skin,
which was suspended over the shoulders.

On the 15th, they reached the base of the Elk Mountains, which
divide the valley of the Willamette from that of the Umpqua, The
ascent and descent of this ridge are both gradual, and the hills were
covered with pines, spruces, and oaks, with a thick undergrowth of
Hazel, Arbutus, Rubus, and Cornus. Through these thickets they
were obliged to force their way along the back of one of the spurs,
and were three hours in reaching the top, which was fifteen hundred
feet above the level of the plain. A species of Castanea was met with,
whose leaves were lanceolate and very rusty beneath; the cup of the
nut was very prickly.

The route over the Elk Mountains was very serpentine, owing to
the obstruction caused by fallen timber, many of whose trunks were
four and five feet in diameter- Previous to ascending the mountain,
they had crossed several small streams over which the Hudson Bay
Company had constructed bridges for the passage of their sheep.
Much trouble was caused by the necessity of dragging a number of
their pack-horses with lassos from a miry pool into which they had
plunged. At the encampment, during the night, ice made on the pools
lo the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and the thermometer had
fallen to 26°. The soil on the Elk Mountains is hard and dry ; on the
ridge, rock is nowhere exposed to view, and only a few fragments of
sandstone lie on the surface ; where they made their descent, however,
and in the banks of the streamlets, they saw the rock finely developed
in horizontal layers. The soil also was more sandy and of indiiferent
quality, and the grass in consequence is thin and occasionally mixed
with ferns.

On the 16th, they encamped on the Elk river. The hunters were
successful in killing a large elk, which was brought into camp and
divided. Lieutenant Emmons, Mr. Agate, and Sergeant Stearns,
with a Canadian as guide, left the encampment for Fort Umpqua,
which was fourteen miles distant. The country for the first five
miles was hilly, with scattered patches of pines, and it appears in
places to be suitable for cultivation ; the rest of the distance was over
a country much broken. The trail carried them over a succession of
steep hills and through deep ravines, which at times appeared almost
impassable to their broken-down beasts; four of which Lieutenant
Emmons w^as taking with him to exchange. They did not reach the

SOUTHERN OREGON. 225

bank of the river opposite the fort, until between eight and nine o'clock.
On the opposite side they perceived a fire, with some figures passing
to and fro. By firing guns, and employing the stentorian voice of their
guide, it was made known that our party was in want of two canoes
,to cross the riven The person in charge of the fort, Mr. Gangriere,
had suffered much alarm, until he recognised the voice of Boileau,
their guide, which had served to quiet him, and he at once directed
the canoes to cross over ; w^hile these were sought for, the horses were
hobbled, and the accoutrements made up, ready for transportation.
Fort Umpqua was, like all those built in this country, enclosed by a
^^ tall line of pickets, with bastions at diagonal corners; it is about two

hundred feet square, and is situated more than one hundred and fifty
yards from the river, upon an extensive plain ; it is garrisoned by five
men, two wonien, and nine dogs, and contains a dw^elling for the
superintendent, as well as store-houses, and some smaller buildings for
the officers and servants' apartments-

At the time of the visit, an unusual number of Indians of the Umpqua
tribe had collected around ; and Mn Gangriere said, had shown a
strong disposition to attack and burn the fort. He stated that hostility
to the Company and the whites generally, arose from the losses they
had met with from the small-pox, which they said had been introduced
among them by the Company's parties under Michel and IVrKay; and
their anger w^as much increased by his refusal to supply them with
ammunition. So critical did he consider the state of affairs, that he
w^as about to despatch a messenger to Vancouver, to inform Dr.
M'Laughlin of his situation ; he had not ventured to leave the fort for

many days.

Mr, Gangriere, besides entertaining Messrs. Emmons and Agate
w ith tea, &c., gave them an account of the dangers they had to pass
through. He informed them that he had lono^ before heard of the

i

intended journey, through the Indians, and that the news had passed
on to all the tribes, who were collecting in vast numbers to oppose
their passage, having sworn vengeance against all the whites, or those
connected with them. He also stated that within a short time they
had murdered two half-breeds who had been living peaceably among
, them, but who had been formerly employed by the Hudson Bay

Company. By way of making his story more credible, he said that
the Shaste Indians had sent him word that they were lying in wait for

4

^ the whites when they should come. Large numbers of the Umpquas,

according to him, had assembled at the usual crossing, to arrest the
progress of the party, and he advised Lieutenant Emmons to cross the

VOL. V.

29

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226

SOUTHERN OREGON.

river at a place higher up. Mr. Gangriere furthermore thought their
numbers so small that he was sure they would be all killed.

Lieutenant Emmons places the fort in latitude 43*^ 24' N. From the
account given by Mr. Gangriere, the river pursues a northwesterly
course, and runs a distance of thirty miles before it enters the sea.
It is navigable from the ocean to the place where the Umpqua and
Elk rivers unite, about three miles below the fort, for vessels drawing
not more than six feet water. The mouth of the Umpqua offers no
harbour for sea-going vessels, and has only nine feet water on its bar.
Its entrance is very narrow, with low sands on the north and south
sides.

The Umpqua country yields a considerable supply of furs, and
principally of beaver, most of which are of small size,
lations of the Company do not seem to be so strictly in force here
as to the north of the Columbia, in relation to buying the small skins.
These, I have understood, they refuse to purchase there ; and every
Indian who is found with a small skin is refused supplies of ammuni-
tion, which has been found sufficient to prevent the killing of the young
animals. Here they also obtain from the Indians some land and sea
otter, deer, and bear skins.

The regu-

CMPaUA INDIAN GIRL.

Mr,

of which the above wood-cut is a copy.

The agent at this post obligingly exchanged the horses, and supplied

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SOUTHERN OREGON. 227

Lieutenant Emmons with some bear and deer skins, which several of
the party were In want of to make into shirts and trousers; Dr.
M'Laughlin having kindly sent Lieutenant Emmons, before he left the
Willamette, a letter to his agent, desiring that he would afford the
party all the assistance in his power.

Lieutenant Emmons and Mr. Agate were accommodated in the
store, with beds made of blankets. After arranging them, Mr. Gan-
griere wished them good night, locked the door, put the key in his
pocket, and went to his lodgings. In the morning, at daylight, they
were released.

The day was cold, damp, and foggy, preventing them from seeing
any distance from the fort. The river is here one hundred and twenty
yards wide, quite rapid, filled with rocks, and only navigable for
canoes. The soil in the vicinity is very good, producing plentiful
crops of corn, wheat, and potatoes. In the garden attached to the
fort, are grown all the common vegetables of the United States, with
melons, both water and musk. Cattle are said to thrive well.

In the morning it was found that a number of the Indians had de-
parted, which relieved the agent's fears for himself, but increased those
for our party. He was satisfied that it w^as too small in number to
pass safely through, or overcome the resistance the Indians had pre-
pared to oppose to them,

Few of these men seem to know the reason of the whites meeting
with so few mishaps in passing through an apparently hostile country ;
and many deem that it is owing to their own skill and prowess. The
truth is, that as soon as the Indians have traded with the whites, and
become dependent on them for supplies, thenceforward they can be
easily controlled. If disposed to be hostile, the fort at Umpqua would
offer no resistance to their attack; but they are aware that all their
supplies of ammunition, tobacco, blankets, and other articles of neces-
sity, would be at once cut off; which would reduce them to great dis-
tress. They also know, that in all probability they w^ould receive a
severe chastisement for such aggression, from an armed force that
would forthwith be sent among them. The self-interest of the Indians
is, therefore, the true safeguard of the white traders.

After effecting the exchange of horses, they discovered that two of
those they had hobbled the evening before had escaped; after a three
hours' search, they were finally found on the back-trail, several miles
from the fort. About noon they set out on their return, having under
their escort the Indian wife of the agent, who wished to visit the camp
to consult the doctor- Their fresh horses enabled them to get over the
bad road with less diffinnlfv than thev had found on their wav to the fort.

228 SOUTHERN OREGON.

The party, in the mean time, had not been idle: preparations had
been made for the probable encounter with the Indians; cartridges
filled, and balls run, to the amount of fifty rounds apiece; the elk and
deer meat had been jerked over a slow fire, and put into packs for
transportation.

The examination of the country surrounding the camp, engaged the
attention of the naturalists; many seeds and plants were collected. A
species of oak, new to our gentlemen, was first seen here: in its size
and appearance, it resembles that of the Willamette, excepting the
lobes of the leaves, which have a spire at their termination; and the
acorns, which are larger and more deeply set in the cup. A yellow
honeysuckle was also found on the banks of the riven

The bed of the river is here composed of sandstone and clay-slate ;
a few hundred yards higher up the stream, the slate disappears, and
beyond it is found basalt. The basaltic hills are only half a mile
distant from the sandstone range which they had just passed. A few
nodules of limestone, similar to that found around Astoria, occur in
the shale. This rock contains a few fossils, and the sandstone exhibits
some indistinct impressions of vegetables, and seams of coal or lignite.
Mr. Dana, however, is of opinion that it is not probable a large deposit
of the last-named mineral will be found here.

Many friendly Indians had come into the camp, who reported that
the hostile tribes were preparing to attack them and dispute their
passage. Some alarm seems to have existed among the trappers which
manifested itself in sullenness, accompanied wiih threats of leaving the
party. The ostensible reason for their dissatisfaction was that they
were not permitted to fire their pieces at all times about the camp.
Their real motive was the hope of retarding our party until it should be
overtaken by the Company's trappers under Michel, who w^ere about
sixty in number. Boileau's fears had been so worked upon that he
determined to leave his wife at Fort Umpqua until Michel should pass
by. As usual, they suffered some detention in the morning from the

stravinj? of their horses.

Soon after leaving their camp, Corporal Hughes was taken with such
a violent chill, that he was unable to proceed. The doctor, with a
party under iMr. Colvocoressis, waited until the chill had subsided, and

then rejoined the party.

Their guide now expressed to Lieutenant Emmons his desire to leave
the party, on the plea of solicitude for his little child, but, in reality,
because they were now about entering into the hostile country. After
some talk, however, his fears were quieted, and he consented to go on.

During the day they passed over some basaltic hills, and then

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SOUTHERN OREGON. 229

descended to another plain, where the soil was a fine loam. The
prairies were on fire across their path, and had without doubt been
lighted by the Indians to distress our party^ The fires were by no
means violent, the flames passing but slowly over the ground, and being
only a few inches high.

They encamped on Billey's Creek, named after a man who had been
killed here by a grisly bear, whilst passing through with a party belong-
ing to the Company. Large game w^as seen in abundance, and
Guardipii brought in an elk as large as a good-sized horse.

On the 19th, Burrows and his squaw, who had the night before made
up their minds to leave the party, determined to continue w^ith it. Lieu-
tenant Emmons, in order to avoid any chance of an encounter, now
deviated from the direct road, and took the upper ford or pass across
the Umpqua, as he had every reason to believe that the Indians had
made preparations at the lower one to obstruct his passage. About noon
they reached the north fork of the Umpqua, and succeeded in fording
it without accident, though they experienced some difficulty in conse-
quence of its rapid current and uneven slippery bottom. Its breadth is
about eighty yards, between banks from fifteen to twenty feoi high ; its
depth varies from one to five feet.

As many of the party w^ere very unwell, Lieutenant Emmons deter-
mined to halt, and the party encamped in a beautiful oak grove. With
the geological features of the country, the botany had also changed :
and this was also found to be the case with the animals. A new shrub
was met with, resembling the shrubby geranium of Hawaii. A beau-
tiful laurel (Laurus ptolemii,) with fragrant leaves; a Ceanothus, with
beautiful sky-blue flow^ers of delightful fragrance ; a tobacco plant
(Nicotiana), of fetid odour, with white flowers. For further information,
I must refer to the Botanical Report.

' On the Umpqua, the first grisly bears were seen ; here also the white-
tailed deer was lost sight of, and the black-tailed species met with* Elk

w^ere seen in great numbers.

Two Indians made their appearance on the opposite bank of the
river, and were desirous of coming into the camp; but deeming that
their object was to spy out the strength of the party, it was thought
more prudent not to permit this ; they were accordingly motioned ofl^.
At this encampment, the horses fared badly ; for it became necessary

bein

notorious thieves.

On the 20th, they resumed their route at an early hour, and passed,
during the day, through valleys and over narrow plains, that afforded
cTood pasturage for cattle. In the course of two hours, they reached

U

230 SOUTHERN OREGON.

the south fork of the Umpqua, which is similar in character to the

r

northern.

During this day's ride, they saw one grisly bear, and had an
encounter with another. On the first being perceived, chase was
given, but he escaped, and while pursuing him, the second was seen.
He was of large size, and approached within one hundred yards of the
party, in their usual slow pace. As they came nearer to him, he raised
himself on his hind quarters, and looked, with a cool indifference, upon
the party. Mr. Peale dismounted and fired at him, upon which he ran
off, under a shower of balls from the rest of the party, many of which
hit him. They did not, however, succeed in Idlling him, and he finally
made his escape.

They encamped on the south branch of the Umpqua river, after
having passed along its eastern bank for some miles.

On the 21st, their route along the bank of the stream was through
a country of the same description as before. They w^ere approaching
gradually the Umpqua Mountains, and stopped at the place where it is
usual to encamp, previous to making the ascent. During the day they
passed several deserted Indian huts, and met with some Indians, who
were desirous of joining the camp. They declared themselves friendly
to the whites, and were anxious to obtain powder and ball, which,
however, were not furnished them. They were armed with guns, bows,
and arrows, and were very particular in their inquiries about the time
that Michel's party was to be expected.

During the night, an armed Indian was found lurking about the
camp. He was recognised as an acquaintance by Warfields, one of
the trappers ; and on expressing his desire to accompany the party
to California, permission to do so was given him by Lieutenant
Emmons.

It now became evident that the Indians were on the watch to take
advantage of any want of vigilance. The trappers had all become
contented, and seemed quite willing to do their duty. They well knew
that they had now entered a hostile country, and that it would be dan-
gerous for any one to straggle or desert.

On the 22d, they began their route across the Umpqua Mountains.
The ascent was at first gradual and easy ; the path was quite narrow,
and lined with dense underbrush, through which they were at times
obliged to cut their way. The party were obliged to follow each
other, and formed a line of nearly a mile in length. The path was
continually rising and falling, until they came to a steep bank, ascend-
ing very abruptly to the height of one thousand feet. This occasioned
many of the pack-horses to stumble, but without any material accident.

#

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SOUTHERN OREGON. 231

On the top was a small grassy plain, along which they travelled for a
short distance, after which they descended rapidly into a valley where
water was found. The most difficult part of the day's journey was
the ascent from this valley, to effect which they toiled for three hours.
The woods had been lately on fire here, and many of the trees were
still ignited. This fire had evidently been lighted by the Indians for
the purpose of causing the trees to fall across the path ; they had also
tied some of the branches together, and interlocked others. Every thing
was charred, and the more annoying on that account, as our people
were completely covered with charcoal dust. From the summit of
this ridge, a view is had of a confused mass of abrupt ridges, between
which lie small and secluded valleys. The whole range is thickly
1 wooded, with a variety of trees, among which are the Pinus Lam-

bertiana, (the first time it had been met with it,) Oaks, Arbutus, Prunus,

Cornus, Yews, Dogwood, Hazel, Spiraea, and Castanea. In different

directions, dense smoke was seen arising, denoting that these savages

J were on the watch for the party, and making signals to muster their

forces for an attack, if a favourable opportunity should offer.

The Pinus Lambertiana, of Douglass, was not found quite so large
as described by him. The cones, although fourteen inches long, w^ere
small in circumference.

They encamped on the plain of the Shaste country, which is divided
by the mountains which they had passed, from the Umpqua Valley,
The greatest elevation of those mountains, by the boiling temperature
of water, was one thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. On reaching
the encampment, it w^as discovered that Mr. Peale had met with the
loss of a considerable part of his luggage, in consequence of the pack
having been torn open by the bushes. It was therefore resolved to remain
half a day at this place, in order to send back and seek for it, as well
as to give the horses time to recover from the fatigue they had under-
gone. The 23d was therefore passed quietly, while a small division
went back to search for the missing articles ; but the only one which
they succeeded in finding, was the camera lucida. Some Indians were
met with, who no doubt had picked up all the rest of the missing
articles ; but as their language was unintelligible to the guides, no
questions could be asked, nor any information received from them.

The rocks in this neighbourhood are here and there intersected with
veins of quartz, and masses of that mineral are found strewn over the
whole country. The soil that lies above the talcose rock is gravelly,
and generally of a red brick-colour. Our botanists collected, during
the day, many seeds. In the way of plants, they found the bulb which
ifi used in California in the place of soap.

232 S O U T H E R N O R E G O N,

Their journey was resumed at an early hour on the 24th. The
route passed through thickets, and in some places they discovered the
fresh track of Indians, in searching for whom they discovered three
squaws, who had been left when the others fled* It thus appeared that
the Indians were watching them closely, and it was certain that in this
country, a very small number of them would have been able to cut off
the whole party without much injury to themselves, if they had pos-
sessed any courage*

The greater part of the day's journey was over undulating hills;
and after making a distance of twenty-three miles, they encamped oil
Young's creek. This is a run of water, a few yards wide and a foot
or less deep ; it may be traced for a long distance by the trees which
border it. They had now reached the country of the Klamet Indians,
better know^n as the Rogues or Rascals, w^hich name they have ob-
tained from the hunters, from the many acts of villany they have
practised. The place of encampment was only a short distance from
that where Dr. Bailey w^as defeated.

On the 25th they continued their journey over a country resemblino^
that traversed the day before, with the exception that the wood was
not so thick. The Pinus Lambertiana was more common ; the trees
of this species were not beyond the usual size of the pine tribe, but
their cones were seen fifteen inches in length. Some of the sugar pro-
duced by this tree was obtained : it is of a sweet taste, with a slightly
bitter and piny flavour ; it resembles manna, and is obtained by the
Indians by burning a cavity in the tree, w^hence i^ exudes. It is ga-
thered in large quantities. This sugar is a powerful cathartic, and
affected all the party who partook of it ; yet it is said that it is used as
a substitute for sugar among the trappers and hunters. The soil
passed over w^as loose and light, approaching a sandy loam.

In the afternoon they entered on the plains of Rogues' or Tootoo-
lutnas river, and encamped on its banks. This is a beautiful stream,
upwards of one hundred yards in w^idth, wuth a rapid current, flowing
over a gravelly bottom at the rate of three miles an hour: it abounds
in fish, on which the Indians principally subsist ; the banks are low
and overgrow^n wnth bushes for some distance from the stream ; the
soil is poor and sandy. Two or three hundred yards from the river,
there is a sudden rise of ten feet, and another at the same distance
beyond, from the last of which the land rises into hills from six hun-
dred to a thousand feet in height. On these hills the soil changes to

granitic sand.

Inass, the Indian hunter, being in search of game at some distance
from the camp, killed a deer, and while in the act of skinning it, was

SOUTHERN OREGON. 233

surprised by a party of Indians, who shot a flight of arrows over him ;
he at once sprang to his horse, seized his rifle, and, according to his
ow^n account, killed one of them. The utmost haste was necessary to
effect his escape, and he left his game behind.

Towards night, a canoe with two Indians approached the camp,
which they were not suffered to enter. These canoes were dug out
square at each end, and quite rude.

In the morning they found within their camp an Indian basket with
! roots, which they supposed to have been left there during the night by

some Indian whose curiosity was so great as to induce him to peril his
life to satisfy it.

The 26th, they passed along the banks of the Rogues' river, w^hich
runs on in a westerly direction; upon it the Indians were seen spear-
I ing salmon from their canoes.

Within a short distance of their camping-place, they came upon a
party of about fifty Indians, who seemed to be surprised that their
hiding-place had been discovered. They appeared to be unarmed,
and looked very innocent.

During the day, their course was northeasterly, along the banks of
the river. About a mile from the camp, granite of a light colour and
a fine grain, that would serve as a beautiful building-stone, was seen
in places. As they proceeded, the valley of the river was encroached
upon by the mountains, and the ground became very much broken.
The river, also, flowed in rapids, owing to the same cause, and its
banks became projecting and jagged rocks. A place was pointed out
where a former party had been attacked and defeated with great loss,
in consequence of the Indians being able to conceal themselves behind
the rocks. Our party found no one to oppose their passage. In the
afternoon they reached the forks, and took the southern one, which
brought them to Turner's encampment, where his party w^ere attacked,
and most of them massacred. They had allowed the Indians to enter
the camp in numbers, when they suddenly rose upon the whites, who
^ were but nine in all, and were, at the time of the attack, attending to

the horses. Two of the party were killed immediately. Turner, who
was a strong athletic man, was seated by the fire when the fray began ;
he snatched up a brand, and defended himself, dealing destruction
around him, until his wife brought him his rifle, with w hich he killed
several. A large fallen tree lies near the spot, at one end of which
Turner stood, while the Indians occupied the other, and whence, as-

sisted by his wife, he made such havoc among them, that they at last

1

retreated, and allowed Turner and his w^ounded companions to make
good their retreat to the north. They returned to Willamette with the

VOL. V. U 2 30

234 SOUTHERN OREGON.

loss of all their horses and property. There are still human bones,
and among them parts of skulls, that mark the spot where this deadly
strife took place.

Two Indians came into the camp, who were said to be friendly,
having often visited the Company's parties. One of them had a kind
of coat of mail, to protect himself from arrows. It resembled a strait-
jacket, and only covered the body, leaving the arms free. It was
made of sticks as large as a man's thumb, woven together so closely
as to resist the force of arrows. It consisted of two parts, fastened
together with shoulder-straps at the top, and secured around the waist
at the bottom.

On the opposite bank of the Rogues' river some Indians were
seen at a fire; but on the discovery of our party, they removed
farther from the river. Shortly afterw-ards, a small dog belonging
to them came down to the river bank, when a man, by the name of
Wood, took his rifle, and, contrary to the orders and rules of the
camp, shot it. Lieutenant Emmons had discharged the man a few
days before for some misbehaviour, and he would have been turned
out of camp, if there had been any place of safety for him. It was
now^ sufficiently evident why the Indians had removed immediately out
of gunshot. During the night, the Indians collected within hearing of
the camp, and had a w^ar-dance.

Most of the gentlemen of the party had suffered exceedingly from
attacks of the ague; the chills were very violent while they lasted,
and several were obliged to stop for an hour or two during their con-
tinuance. This oecame a source of uneasiness to -the whole party;
for it was necessary to pass on rapidly, and not delay the main body
more than w'as unavoidably necessary: the sudden and great atmo-
spheric changes which constantly occurred, tended to aggravate, if
they did not produce, these attacks: the thermometer during the day
frequently standing above 80^, and at night nearly as low as the

freezing point.

On the 27th, they proceeded along the bank of the river. The
Indians were observed to be gathering, and were heard to utter yells,
on the opposite bank. After a while, a large band of them were
seen near a rocky point which encroaches upon the river, and where
the path came within the reach of their, arrows. The party now had
strong reason for apprehending an attack; Lieutenant Emmons, there-
fore, took such precautions as w^ere necessary to clear the path from
any dangers, by throwing a detachment on foot in advance of the
main party. Here the high perpendicular bank confined the path to
very narrow limits, rendering a passing party liable to be seriously

SOUTHERN OREGON. 235

-1

1 dams.

I

molested by an attack from Indians, who might conceal themselves
from view among the rocks on the opposite 'side of the rapid and
narrow river. No attack, however, took place, as the Indians per-
ceived the disposition that w^as made to prevent it. After the party
had gone by and were beyond rifle-shot, they again made their ap-
pearance, and began to utter taunts, which were coolly listened to,
except by the females of Mn Walker's family. The squaws (wives
of the hunters) had prepared themselves for an attack, apparently wuth
as much unconcern as their husbands. Michel La Framboise with
his parly had been twice assaulted at this place. A few miles beyond
they left the banks of the Rogues' river, taking a more easterly route,
over a rolling prairie which is bounded by low hills, resembling the
scenery of the Willamette Valley. The soil, in some few places, was
good ; but generally gravelly and barren* On the plain, some Indians
were seen at a distance, on horseback, who fled like wild animals the
moment they discovered the party. Some of the horses began now to
give out, and they w^ere obliged to abandon them. In the afternoon,
they encamped on Beaver creek, so named by Lieutenant Emmons,
from the number of those animals that were seen engaged in building

An antelope was killed, which was one of four that the hunters had
seen; it w^as of a dun and white colour, and its hair was remarkably
soft. The Indians take this animal by exciting its curiosity : for this
purpose they conceal themselves in a bush near its feeding-grounds,
and making a rustling noise, soon attract its attention, when it is led
to advance towards the place of conceahnent, until the arrow pierces
it. If there are others in company, they w^ill frequently remain with
the wounded until they are all in Uke manner destroyed. This species
of antelope, according to the hunters, only inhabit the prairie, being
seldom seen even in the open wooded country. The flavour of the meat
was thought to be superior to that of the deer.

A species of rabbit or hare was seen in great numbers on the high
prairie; their large ears had somewhat the appearance of wings. The
Indian mode of capturing them is by constructing a small enclosure of
brush, open on one side, and having a small hole through the opposite
side, into w^hich they are driven.

It was observed too that many of the pine trees had their bark
pierced in many places, with cylindrical holes about an inch and a half
deep. In some of these an acorn, with its cup end inw^ards, w^as
inserted, which was supposed to be the provision stored away by some
species of woodpecker.

On the 28th, they advanced to the foot of the Boundary Range,

236 • SOUTHERN OREGON.

where they encamped. The soil and country resembled that passed
over the day before, and the woods were also oak and pine, but none
of the Lambertiana. On the hills granite is seen to crop out, and in the
distance was observed a singular isolated rock, which stands like a
tower on the top of the ridge, rising above the surrounding forest with
a bare and apparently unbroken surface. This peak, according to
Lieutenant Emmons^s observations, is on the parallel of 42"^ N. ; from
its top an extensive country is overlooked, and as soon as the party
came in sight of it a dense column of smoke arose, which was thought
to be a signal made by the Klamet Indians, to the Shaste tribe, of the
approach of our party.*

On the way, they met an old squaw, with a large firebrand in her
hand, with which she had just set the grass and bushes on fire ; when
surprised, she stood motionless, and appeared to be heedless of any
thing that was passing around her. She was partly clothed in dressed
deer-skins, one around her waist and another thrown over her shoulders,
both fastened with a girdle, and having long fringes made of thongs of
deer-skins braided; there were no other Indians in sight. The party
encamped in a valley among the hills, in which were found many
boulders of granite and syenite.

The hostility of the Indians, and their having been successful in
stealing the horses of former parties, induced Lieutenant Emmons to
have an unusually strict guard kept during the night.f

On the 29th, they set out to ascend the Boundary Mountains, which

separate Mexico from the United States. It is a range of hills from

twelve hundred to two thousand feet high, some of whose summits have

a mural front; the features of all the ridges wear a basahic appearance,

though some of them are of sandstone, and contain fossils. As they

ascended, they every moment expected to be attacked, particularly at

a steep and narrow path, where a single horse has barely room to pass.

The man Tibbats was one of a party of fifteen, which was defeated

here by the Indians, some three years before. One of their number was

killed, and two died of their wounds on the Umpqua, whither they were

obhged to retreat, although they had forced the Indians back with great

loss. He showed great anxiety to take his revenge on them, but no

opportunity offered, for the party had no other difficulty than scrambling

up a steep path, and through thick shrubbery, to reach the top. Not an

* This I have designated as Emmons's Peak, after the officer who had charge of this
party, as a memorial of the value of his services in conducting it safely through this hostile
country.

Klamet Indians took the pains

^untry

I
*

SOUTHERN OREGON. 237

Indian was to be seen, although they had evidently made some prepa-
rations to attack the party; the ground had been but recently occupied,
some large trees felled across the path by burning, and many other
impediments placed to prevent the party from advancing. The whole
mountain side was admirably adapted for an ambuscade.

At the summit of this range, they got their first view of the Klamet
Valley. It was beneath them, walled on both sides by high basaltic
hills, one beyond another. Mount Shaste, a high, snowy peak, of a
sugar-loaf form, which rose through the distant haze, bore southward,
forty-five miles distant. They descended on the south side, and

encamped on the banks of Otter creek, within a mile of the Klamet
river.

This ridge divides the waters flowing to the north and south. The
soil seemed to change for the worse, becoming more sandy.

In consequence of the illness of some of the party, it w^as concluded
to remain stationary on the 30th : the others made excursions around
the camp. The country they saw w as a broad prairie valley, dotted
wnth oaks and pines, w^ith a serpentine line of trees marking the edges
of the streams till they are lost in the distance. This valley lies in the
midst of hills, clothed with a forest of evergreens, and through this the
waters of the Klamet flow% passing beyond it, through a narrow valley
on the west. The most remarkable object in this place is the isolated
conical peak, which rises immediately from the level pladn to the
height of one thousand feet, and is destitute of trees, except on its
summit.

Near their camp was the remains of an Indian hut, which had been
constructed of bent sticks: this is represented at the end of the chapter.

Lieutenant Emmons, during the day, obtained both dip and intensity
observations. The thermometer, in the shade, rose to 100^. At
daw^n the following morning, it w^as 32'^, The hunters did not succeed
in procuring any game.

On the 1st of October, they were enabled to take an early start.
The weather was, how^ever, sultry, and the atmosphere again so smoky
as to shut out the Shaste Peak from view. In about two hours they
crossed the Klamet river, where it w^as about eighty yards w^ide, with
low banks, destitute of bushes. It was about four feet deep, with a
pebbly bottom. Both above and below the ford, there were rapids ;
the volume of water was about equal to that of the Umpqua. From the
appearance of its banks, it is subject to overflow. The prairie, after
crossing the river, became dry and barren, from which a solitary bute,
by which term these hills are known, occasionally rose up, from one
to five hundred feet high. These are peculiar to this country. Heaps

238 SOUTHERN OREGON.

of volcanic rocks, consisting of large masses of grayish or reddish
porphyritic lava, in blocks of from one to ten cubic feet in size, were
lying on the surface in disorderly piles. Beyond, to the eastward, the
lava heaps became still more numei'ous.

They encamped on the southern branch of the Klamet river, which
is a beautiful, clear, and rapid stream, where they met wdth a small
spot of grass, the only one they had seen during the day. Two Indians
were discovered on the look-out from one of the lava heaps. Lieute-
nant Emmons, taking the guide with him, succeeded in prev^enting
their escape, and was enabled to approach them. They were at first
under great fear, but soon became reconciled, and sold two salmon
they had with them, w^hich they had taken in the river with their fish-
spears. The salmon were of a whitish colour, and not at all delicate
to the taste ; their tails were worn off, and the fish otherwise bruised
and injured. Many salmon are caught in all these rivers. The Indians
were thought to be better-looking than those before seen about the
villages, and were quite naked, excepting the maro. After having
disposed of their fish, they were willing to sell their bows and
arrows, which they had hid in the grass. These which were all
neatly made, were bought for a knife. They then pointed out some
more of their tribe, who were seated on the side of a distant hill, and
were very desirous that they might be permitted to come into the
camp; but permission was refused them. Here our gentlemen saw
large bundles of rushes, made up in the form of a lashed-up hammock,
which the Indians are said to use instead of canoes.

On the 2d, they travelled all day over a rolling prairie, without
water; the low ground was incrusted with salts, notwithstanding which,
the land was better than that passed over the day before. Some
patches of spirsea and dogwood were met with, and a better growth
of grass; although it was still very scanty. •

Large herds of antelopes were seen, but none of them were killed ;
the hunters also recognised the mountain sheep, which are of a dark
colour, much larger than the common sheep, and having large horns.
Towards the afternoon they came to some holes containing v^^aler;
and such had been the suffering of some of the animals from thirst,
that they rushed into them with their packs, and it required much
labour to extricate them, for v^hich purpose it was necessary to use
the lasso. About midday they left the Klamet Valley, which is far
inferior to any portion of the country they had passed through; and

they

serpentine- They

beyond

!

SOUTHERN OREGON* 239

boulders of a coarse syenite, forming tlie bed of the creek, and lying
along its course, were seen. The hornblend crystals of the latter rock
were often two inches long, and were set in a white granular paste
of feldspar.

At their camp they were visited by a party of Shaste Indians, who
were allowed to enter it, and for some time there was a brisk trade
for their bows and arrows. These Indians are a fine-looking race,
being much better proportioned than those more to the northward,
and their features more regular. One of the boys was extremely good-
looking. He had a bright black eye, and pleasing expression of coun-
tenance; he w^as clad in dressed deer-skins, over his shoulders and
about his body, but his legs were bare. They all wore their black hair
hanging down to their shoulders ; and they do not compress their heads.
Mr. Agate had much difficulty in getting them to stand still for the
purpose of having their portraits taken, and gave them a miniature of
his mother to look at, hoping that this would allay their fears, but it
had a contrary effect, as they now believed that he desired to put some

enchantment upon them, and thought that he was the medicine-man of
the party.

They obtained an exhibition of the archery of the Indians by putting
up a button at twenty yards distance, which one of them hit three
times out of five: the successful marksman was rewarded with it and
a small piece of tobacco. They use these bows with such dexterity
as to kill fish, and lanch their arrows with such force, that one of the
gentlemen remarks he would as leave be shot at with a musket at the
distance of one hundred yards, as by one of these Indians with his
bow and arrow. Their bows and arrows are beautifully made: the
former are of yew and about three feet long; they are flat, and an
inch and a half to two inches wude: these are backed very neatly with
sinew, and painted. The arrows are upwards of tliirty inches long;
some of them were made of a close-grained wood, a species of spireea,
while others were of reed ; they w^ere feathered for a length of from
five to eight inches, and the barbed heads were beautifully wrought
from obsidian: the head is inserted in a grooved piece, from three to
five inches long, and is attached to the shaft by a socket ; this, when it
penetrates, is left in the w^ound when the shaft is withdrawn; a very
shallow blood-channel is sometimes cut in the shaft. In shooting the
arrow, the bow is held horizontally, braced by the thumb of the left
hand, and drawn by the thumb and three first fingers of the right
hand. To obviate the disadvantage of drawing to the breast, the
chest is thrown backwards ; on discharging the arrow, they throw out
the right leg and stand on the left. Their quivers are made of deer,

240 SOUTHERN OREGON.

raccoon, or wild-cat skin; these skins are generally whole, being left
open at the tail end.

A disease was observed among them which had the appearance of
the leprosy, although the doctor did not recognise it as such, one of
the six had wasted away to almost a skeleton frem its effects.

The old man was pointed out as the father-in-law of Michel La

Framboise, who, as I have said before,, has a wife in nearly every tribe.

As to dress, they can scarcely be said to wear any except a mantle

of deer or w^olf skin. A few of them had deer-skins belted around

their waists with a highly ornamented girdle.

On the 3d, they continued their route up the plain, and soon reached
its termination, after which they entered the forest on the slopes of the
Shasle Range; the path was rendered very broken and uneven by the
knolls of trachyte which were seen in every direction. On arriving
at the top of the ridge, they had a magnificent view of the snowy
peak of Shaste, with a nearer and intermediate one destitute of snow,
with tall pines growing nearly to its top. Where the surface could be
seen, it appeared as though it was covered with large blocks of rock:
its conical shape proved its volcanic character, although no crater
could be perceived.

The Shaste Peak is a magnificent sight, rising as it does to a lofty
height, its steep sides emerging from the mists which envelope its
base, and seem to throw it off to an immense distance; its cleft sum-
mit gave proof of its former active state as a volcano. The snow lies
in patches on the sides and part of the peak of this mountain; but
there is a great difference in the position of its snow-line from that of
Mount Hood or St. Helen's. Its height is said to be fourteen thousand
three hundred and ninety feet, but Lieutenant Emmons thinks it is not
so high. After passing this ridge, they soon met the head waters of
the Sacramento, flowing to the southward, and their camp was pitched
on the banks of another stream, that came from the Shaste Peak.

Our party now had their prospects somewhat brightened, having
passed safely through the country of the **'Bad Indians." I cannot
but regret that they should at this time have been found in so hostile a
state that it rendered it not only prudent, but necessary for the safety
of the party, that all intercourse should be avoided, and consequently
one of the objects of the Expedition, that of acquiring some knowledge
of their actual condition, numbers, &c., was frustrated.

On the 4th, they had fairly entered into the district of pines : again
some of the Lambertiana were measured, and found to be eighteen
feet in circumference, with cones sixteen inches long.

They encamped on Destruction river, which runs from this moun-

Sa

b

. ^^

4^ 4-

no

L

fen

u

■*■-

I

/

SOUTHERN OREGON. 241

tain range toward the south, in a place where they found food for
their horses and water in abundance. The air was delightful; the
forest protected them from the rays of the sun, and besides this the
game was plentiful Near the encampment, in a northwest direction,
was a mountain ridge shooting up in sharp conical points and needle-
shaped peaks, having a precipitous front. One of these peaks almost
overhangs the valley, presenting a gray surface of naked rock two
thousand feet high. The valley which adjoins is strewn over with
boulders of white granite, similar to that already described. From
this, there is little doubt that the ridge is formed of the same material
At meridian they reached a small valley bordering on the Destruction
river, where they found a chalybeate spring. The water oozes out
from the rocks, bubbling up freely, and is highly charged with car-
bonic acid gas. In taste it was found agreeable to both the riders and
the animals. Its temperature was 50^^, that of the air being 75°;
about a gallon per minute is discharged. Around it there is a thick
deposit of iron rust, and a few^ yards distant a small pond, the bottom
of which was also coated with a ferruginous deposit. The rocks in
the vicinity of the spring were of the trachytic and slightly cellular
lava, which is speckled with grains of feldspar. The hunters said
that the spring was in all respects similar to that on the Bear creek,

which empties into the Youta Lake, known in the Rocky Mountains
as the Soda Spring. Mr. Dana found some difficulty in accounting

for this emission of carbonic acid, as no limestone was found or

known to exist in the neighbourhood ; yet he is inclined to believe, that

it may be owing to the decomposition of sulphuret of iron. For further

information upon this subject, I would refer to his Geological Report.

On this night they had a severe storm from the westward, and occa-
sionally heard the crash produced by the falling of large pines.

The character of the country had now changed, and afforded a new
and more extended botanical field, as well as new geological features.
[ ■ The general tendency of the ridges is north and south, but the whole

may be classed as a series of valleys and hills thrown in all positions.
The hills are, for the greater part, covered with soil, when it can find
any place of deposit ; and all are richly clothed with vegetation. The
principal timber consists of pines and oaks ; and there are many
smaller plants, of w^hich the flowers must be abundant in the proper
season. As it was, our botanists reaped something of a harvest; for
information respecting which, the Botanical Report is referred to.

They continued to follow Destruction river until the 9lh, when it
was joined by a stream from the northward and eastward, w^hich was
taken to be the northeast branch of Pitt river: it was larger than the

VOL. V. V 31

I

\

242

SOUTHERN OREGON,

stream they had been following for the last few days, and is supposed
by some to take its rise in Pitt Lake ; but this I very much doubt, as
it lies on the other side of the Cascade or Californian Range, and the
two united form the Sacramento.

Though I have dignified these two streams with the name of rivers,
it must not be supposed that they are really such, in our acceptation of
the word. The party are generally of the opinion that they should be
called creeks.

They encamped late in the evening near a small rivulet, to the west-
ward of the Sacramento. They had much difficulty with their horses,
which had now become tired out. For this reason it became necessary
to abandon one of them, as he was unable to proceed any further.

On the 10th they made an early start, and left the mountains. The
width of the range they had passed through was upwards of one hun-
dred miles. At one place Guardipii, their guide, lost his w^ay ; but on
applying to Warfields' Indian wife, she pointed out the trail without
difficulty.

They had now passed into the Sacramento Valley, and had met with
some of the Kinkla tribe of Indians, who w^ere known to be friendlv,
and they became relieved from anxiety. The botanical character of
the landscape changed as suddenly : instead of firs, pines, &cc.y they
found themselves among sycamores, oaks, aud cotton-wood trf^^s-
The oaks bear a variety of acorns, which are equally the food of the
bears and the Indians. The prairie bordering the Sacramento at this
place is about fifty feet below the upper prairie, and continues for
many miles very regularly on the same level ; the latter falling into it
by a sloping bank.

%

SACRAMENTO INDIAN-

In the evening the camp was visited by many of these friendly and

SOUTHERN OREGON. 043

docile Indians, who made themselves quite easy, laughing and joking,
and appeared rather to look upon the party as beneath them- They
had some resemblance to the Shaste Indians; most of them were
naked; the others had a piece of deer-skin thrown over their shoulders;
their faces were marked with an expression of good humour. Some
of them wore their hair long, extending below the neck and divided
from the top ; in others, and most commonly, it was drawn back and
gathered in a bunch behind, where it was fastened with a string of
deer-sinew; their ears were bored, and a short string inserted with a
few beads ; the face w^as usually painted, the upper part of the cheek
in the form of a triangle, with a blue-black substance, mixed with
some shiny particles that resembled pulverized mica.

The Indians were darker as to colour than the northern tribes, and
their general appearance resembled that of the South Sea islanders.
Their food consists principally of fish and acorns; of the latter they

make a kind of black cake by shelling the acorns, drying them in the
sun, and then poundmg them between stones to a meal, which they mix
with a little wafer and arbutus-berries, which gives it a flavour; it is
then formed into cakes about two inches thick, w^hen it is wrapped in
leaves and baked ; it is quite black and eats like cheese: these acorns
are quite palatable in the raw state. The seeds of the different genus
of pine are also eaten, particularly one that is peculiar to California.
The arbutus-berry is in great plenty, and is also ground into meal ; they
have also many grapes. The game had also become very abundant,
in consequence of the quantities of food, which attracts them as well as
the Indians, and many antelopes and deer were observed. Large flocks
of California partridges and geese w^ere seen: among the birds was a
new species of magpie.

None of the Indians but men visited the camp, the women being left
at their rancheria. Our party went to visit it ; it w^as about half a mile
below the camp, and consisted of some rude huts, built of poles, and
divided by coarse mats into a number of small apartments. The whole
was surrounded bv a brush fence, which served for a stockade.

The huts were small in size and devoid of comfort or cleanliness. It
was remarked that the women were much inferior to the men in per-
sonal appearance, looking careworn and wrinkled, probably from hard
work; for on them seems to depend the preparation of all their winter's
supply of food, at which they seemed to be constantly engaged; while
the men are to be seen lounging about, or engaged in games of hazard.
They are, however, during the season, engaged in taking salmon, either
in weirs, or by spearing: the former method has been described
already ; for the latter they use a long forked spear or fish-gig, which

244 SOUTHERN OREGON.

has a sharp deer's horn to confine the two prongs, and is attached to
the spear by a small lanyard, which in entering the fish slips off, and
retains its hold.

At the rancheria, several dances were performed ; and it was ob-
served that many of the women were tattooed on their arms and body.
On reaching the Sacramento, it had been recommended to Lieu-
tenant Emmons to procure canoes, if possible, either by purchase or
constructing them, in consequence of the belief that both his party and
the animals would have been nearly if not quite w^orn out. No canoes,
however, were to be found, and, as has been seen in my account of that
river, none w^ere used by the Indians. Neither could any timber be
-obtained without much detention, of which to construct one. It was,
therefore, necessary for him to keep on to Captain Suter*s, w^here he
expected to find boats to take them to the ship as soon as possible.
From what Lieutenant Emmons could learn, there was no difficulty in
proceeding in canoes from this place, though there would have been
some obstacles to surmount, particularly the fish-welrs, which exist
below.

On the 11th, they took leave of the friendly Indians, who had, during
the night, been as watchful as themselves, passing the w'ord among their
look-outs as if they had been regular sentinels. The party proceeded
down the w^estern bank of the Sacramento, over a rolling prairie
country, which they characterize as the most worthless they had met
wuth. The soil consists of gravel, coarse pebbles, and large stones,
mixed with sand. They frequently met the beds of streams, three
hundred yards wide, which intersect this part of the country, the
pebbles in w^hich are chiefly composed of jasper and milky quartz, with
a few of basalt, pudding-stone, and pieces of slate. They made this
day, twenty-five miles — the longest day's ride on the journey.

On the 12th, Lieutenant Emmons determined to ford the river, as it
was doubtful whether he would have so good an opportunity lower
down. Inass, one of the hunters, was found sitting beside his horse, on
the opposite side of the ford, loaded with the meat and skin of a large
grisly bear which he had killed. The river w^as about three feet deep,
and two hundred yards wide. They stopped at a place known among
the hunters as Bear-camp, from the number of grisly bears found here.
Five of them were shot the same afternoon, with three deer, which
were seen feeding within sight of the camp, all in excellent condition.
The country on the east side of the river was more level than on the
west, and the soil was thought to be better. Few plants, however,
were seen, in consequence of the country having been burned over.
The country continued much the same until, on the" 15th, they came

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SOUTHERN OREGON. 245

in sight of the Prairie Butes, a regular collection of hills, rising out of
the level plain like islands from the water. These are very deceptive
in height, and may be seen from a great distance. The party encamped
on a small creek, called by the trappers the Little Fork of the Butes,
The hunters said that the party employed by the Hudson Bay Com-
pany last year caught more than one hundred beavers during their
sojourn in this neighbourhood with their cattle.

On the 16th, they passed towards the Butes, and encamped, after an
ineffectual search for water, at a place that had been occupied for the
same purpose by Michel, in the valley or " Kraal" of the Butes. Here
they found two deep holes of stagnant water, the remains of a rivulet
that was now dried up. The ground around and near the Butes is
covered with a great quantity of the bones of animals that resort
hither for safety during the season of the freshets which flood the
whole of this extensive plain. The soil is quite loose and crusted over
with the deposit left by the water, through which the horses broke to
the depth of four or five inches ; nearer the Butes, the soil is harder
and strew^ed with fragments of volcanic rocks. There is little doubt
that each of the Butes was once a volcano. They are grouped within
an oval space, which has a circumference of about thirty miles : the
longest diameter of the oval figure lies in a northeast and southwest
direction. The valley passes through the southern part, and opens out
on the eastern: it is about seven miles in length; and here the party
found water. This valley may be considered almost as a prolongation
of the exterior plain, though parts of it are somewhat higher, as ap-
peared by its not having been overflowed. The highest of the Butes
was made, by a triangulation executed by Lieutenant Emmons and
Mr. Eld, seventeen hundred and ninety-four feet. They have the
appearance of having once been much higher and more extended than
they now are. The volcanic rock, according to Mr. Dana, is a tra-
chytic porphyry, of a purplish colour, which contains hornblend and
six-sided tables of mica, with glassy feldspar, in crystals from a
quarter to half an inch in size, disseminated through it; some of the
rocks have a porcelain aspect, but this variety only constitutes a few
of the peaks. The rock is found either in horizontal or vertical layers
or curved in all directions, and is thickly sprinkled with mica. The
Butes were ascertained to be in the latitude of 39"* 08' N.; yoi it has
been generally believed that these were on the dividing line between
Oregon and California,

On the 17th, they proceeded, and in about fifteen miles they found
themselves on the banks of the Feather river. There is a difficulty in
fording this stream, on account of the quicksands; and the first time

V2

246 SOUTHERN OREGON.

they attempted it, the guide and his horse were nearly lost. To swim
the river was equally impracticable, in the weak and worn-out state
of their animals. They therefore proceeded down its bank, looking
for a ford. On their way, Inass killed a wild cow% one of a herd of
ten. It is said that the wild cattle, which have originated from the
animals that have escaped from the herds passing through the country
to Oregon, are increasing very fast.

. They encamped in a beautiful oak grove, near the junction of the
Feather river with the Sacramento." The two rivers are of about the
same size, being each seventy yards wide. The w- aters of the Feather
are clear, and in many places deep; the banks are, as usual, lined viiih
sycamore, cotton-wood, and oak, and w^ere at this time about twenty-
five feet above the stream. It appears to be navigable for boats. The
party succeeded in forduig it on the I8th, within two miles of the
junction. Near the ford, the Indians had an extensive burial-ground,
marked by a vast number of skulls and bones, that lie scattered around
in all directions, and are said to be all that remains of a once powerful
tribe, that has been swept off by disease.

They then proceeded on to Captain Suter's, where they arrived the
next day.

The officers appear to have entered this valley wuth a high idea of
its fruitfulness, and with the expectation of finding the soil abounding
with every thing that could make it desirable for the abode of the

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agriculturist, and susceptible of producing all that can add to the

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comfort or convenience of man. It is not surprising that they should
have been sadly disappointed, when they beheld a large part of it
barren, and destitute even of pasturage, while that which is fertile is
liable to be annually overflowed. The high prairie is equally gravelly
and unfertile. Yet it is necessary to say there is a sufficient quantity
of good soil to make it a valuable agricultural country, and that it
w^ould be capable of affording subsistence to a large number of in-
habitants, more, however, from the extraordinary fertility of these
grounds than from their extent.

After leaving Captain Suter's, or New Helvetia, the party divided.
The detachment under Lieutenant Emmons, with Messrs. Dana, Agate,
Colvocoressis, and Dr. Whittle, embarked in the Vincennes' launch,
which met them a short distance below that place, and reached San
Francisco at eio^ht o'clock p. m^ on the 24th.

The other detachment, consisting of Messrs. Eld, Peale, Rich,
Brackenridge, and the sergeant, with" some of the men, went by land.
I cannot avoid again returning my thanks to Captain Suter, for his
kindness to this party. All the officers spoke most particularly of the

SOUTHERN OREGON. 247

attention he paid to them, individually and collectively, and of his care
and watchfulness in making provision for our sick.

On the 21st, the land party commenced their journey, with a young
and intelligent Spaniard for a guide. The same day they made fifteen
miles, passing over a dry portion of country, and encamped near two
ponds, called in the country, Poros, the only place, as was supposed,
where water could be obtained within twenty miles ; they, however,
found some the next day in the Rio Cosmenes, within a mile and a
half of the camp- Game was, as usual, very abundant; but the
whole country was suffering from the drought that has been before
spoken of.

On the 22d, about noon, they crossed the river Mogueles, w^hich
was then a small stream ; but at other seasons, it is said it cannot be
crossed on horseback. They travelled this day as far as the San Juan ;
the only water that it contained was in small pools. This place had
been termed the Frenchman's Camp. The ducks and geese had ren-
dered the water scarcely drinkable.

On the 23d, before noon, they reached the San Joachim, which
they found about fifty yards wide, and about three feet deep. Under

' the expectation of finding water, they were induced to ride forty-four

miles, but were again disappointed. On the 24th, they entered among
the Pul Porrice hills, a bare and barren range, composed of sandstone
and volcanic rocks. As they approached the mission of San Jose, the
country became more hilly, the oak abundant, and herds of cattle and
horses were seen. On their way they fell in with large encampments
of Indians, who were busily employed in collecting acorns. They w^ere
all half civilized as to dress, the men being clothed in shirts and
trousers, some in velvet breeches; the women in calico gowns, and
gay-coloured shawls; several hundred of these were met, each loaded
with the beef w'hich is distributed to them in weekly rations. They
are annually allowed a short holiday to return to their native wilds,
during the time acorns are in season.

} . The approach to the mission shows it to have once been a large

establishment. It has all the appearance of a town, being built in the
form of a street of considerable length. In the centre is the church
and convent, w^ith large dwelling-houses on each side of it, and on the
opposite side the houses for the neophytes, consisting of small low
buildings, with every appearance of filth and decay about them.

^ Indeed the whole establishment is falling into ruins; the walls and

gates are thrown down, and every thing wears a look of neglect, both
in the buildings and the persons who inhabit them. The halcyon
days of this mission have passed away ; it is no longer the abode of

24S SOUTHERN OREGON.

hospitality and good living, since it has fallen into the hands of the
administradors or agents of the government. The remains of a fine
garden are also perceptible, where there is yet good fruit; and near by
are extensive fields of Indian corn, which were formerly cultivated by
irrigation.

The reception of our gentlemen was in keeping with the place,
neither polite nor friendly. No civilities wei^e tendered, no offers of

#

accommodation made, although they brought a particular letter from
Captain Suter. Our party were inclined to believe that this was
owing, in part at least, to the condition of their wardrobe; their whole
appearance, it must be admitted, w^as not much in their favour, dressed
as they were in the deer-skins that had been worn on their journey, yet
they thought that their characters might have been discovered through

+

their buckskins.

The administrador told them there was no accommodation for their
horses, and showed them none, except a miserable hole" without any
furniture. The letter of introduction bore the superscription of Don
Jose Antonio Estrade. They met with the tailor to the establishment,
Ephraim Travel, an American, of Philadelphia, who showed them the
lions of the place with great politeness, and as far as in him lay, made
amends for their otherwise cold reception. He took them round the
gardens, through the churches, and told them that the Indians under
the care of the mission were at the present time about six hundred,
which was only one-third of the nfimber they had two years before.
In consequence, there was but little cultivation carried on, compared to
what there had been formerly.

The harvest at the mission had been very small, from the great
drought. No rain had fallen for upwards of a year. The vintage,
however, had been very fine, and forty barrels of wine had been made,
besides a large supply of grapes for the whole establishment. The two
vineyards comprise about four acres, and beside vines, are filled with
apple, pear, and other fruit trees. The buildings of the mission are all
constructed of adobes, and covered with tile roofs.

Fortunately for the party, Mr. Forbes, the agent of the Hudson
Bay Company, residing a few miles farther on, happened to be at the
mission, and very kindly offered them accommodations, which they
thankfully accepted. They found him lodged in a comfortable two-
story adobe house, situated on the border of an extensive prairie, but
w^ithout any trees or cultivation around it. He entertained them very

hospitably.

The party visited Santa Clara the next day, where their reception

was very courteous, and furnished a strong contrast to that at San

SOUTHERN OREGON. 249

\ Jose. After two daj^s' journey, they reached Yerba Bucna at noon on

the 28th, having paid a visit to the mission of Nostra Sefiora de los
Dolores, within three miles of that place.

They reached the ship the same afternoon, and though fatigued and
somewhat worn down, they had been much pleased with their jaunt.

Although this journey from the Columbia to the Sacramento was
attended with much fatigue, yet the labour and suffering were more
than compensated by the information it furnished in relation to the
southern section of Oregon, and the addition of new objects to the col-
lections of the Expedition. Although every thing was not attained that
I intended, yet I feel satisfied that all was done w^hich the very limited
time, and the hostile state of the country, would permit. To the perse-
verance and prudence of Lieutenant Emmons, much credit is due, as
well as to the other officers and naturalists, for the manner in which
they co-operated with him. The duties assigned them were performed
under the most trying circumstances, while worn down by distressing
attacks of the ague and fever. This disease, in particular, affected
those members of the party who had been encamped on the Willamette,
where it w^as supposed they contracted it.

The closing scene of the tour deserves a short notice, as it is pro-
bably peculiar to a country like California. On the arrival of the
party, it seemed to have been surmised by the inhabitants of Yerba
Buena, and by the few who dwell at the mission, presidio, and neigh-
bouring rancheria, together with the trappers and hunters, that our
horses and accoutrements must necessarily be parted with, I make no
doubt that good bargains were anticipated, or rather a determination
made that they would have all for little or nothing. The alcalde, the
only person in authority, a man of much rotundity and little height
interested himself exceedingly in the matter. In the first place, it was
discovered that many of the horses were not marked, and therefore,
agreeably to the law^s of the country, they belonged to the government ;
secondly, that many of them were beyond recovery from their w^orn-
out condition ; thirdly and lastly, that if they did recover, they would
be worthless. The same faults were applied to the pack-saddles, par-
fleshes, and appichemens, that have been described in the beginning of
this chapter, and which had caused so much trouble to procure. Their
value, in the eyes of these gentlemen, was next to nothing. Under these
circumstances, a notice was posted up at the few corners of the pueblo
of Yerba Buena, that they would be disposed of by public auction*

This attracted a great crowd, and among the number was the only
representative of authority of the government, the redoubtable alcalde.
The horses had been put in lots, as was likewise the case w^ith the

VOL. V. 32

— "1^

250

SOUTHERN OREGON,

accoutrements- Each of these was announced first in English, then in
Spanish, and last in French, which gave the auctioneer a full opportu-
nity to descant upon their sore backs, lameness, visible ribs, and sorry
appearance. The Spanish language seemed to be more copious in
words to express their condition, for it certainly produced many jeers
and much laughter among the motley throng. They went off briskly,
however, in lots, from one dollar and fifty cents to five and six dollars
each, principally under the bid of the redoubtable alcalde, who had
arranged things well enough with those under his authority; but as
there were some of our countrymen and foreigners there whom he could
not overawe, he had to pay what was deemed a fair price for the worn-
out animals, although they were sold without reserve; and when one
considers that a brood-mare is valued here at less than a dollar, it will
appear so. The proceeds of the sale amounted to two hundred and ten
dollars.

SHASTE HUT.

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CHAPTER VII

CONTENTS.

PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING-NEW DISTRIBUTION OF OFFICERS- LIEU TENANT CARR
APPOINTED TO THE COMMAND OF THE OREGON -PLAN OF OPERATIONS — DEPAR-
TURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO — DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE VINCENNES — DEATH
OF A MARINE — HIS BURIAL— SEARCH FOR COPPER'S ISLAND— PA ILOLO CHANNEL —
ARRIVAL AND RECEPTON AT HONOLULU— CASE OF HERRON, THE COOPER— TRADE
OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS-THEIR FOUTICAL RELATI0N3-THEIR FUTURE FR03-
PECT3— FINAL DEPARTURE FROM THEM— THE BRIGS PART COMPANY— INSTRUCTIONS
TO MR. KNOX-THE FLYING-FISH PARTS COMPANY— SEARCH FOR MALOON'S, JANES
AND CORNWALLIS ISLANDS— WAKENS ISLAND— SEARCH FOR HALCYON AND FOLGERS
ISLANDS — LADRONE ISLANDS- GRIG AN-SEARCH FOR COPPER'S ISLAND — SABTANG
AND BATAN-CAPE CAPOxNES— FLYING-FISH REJOINS THE VINCENNES— WE ANCHOR
IN THE BAY OF MANILLA -GOVERN ME NT GALLEY-CRUISE OF THE FLYING-FISH —
SEARCH FOR CORNWALLIS ISLAND -REEF DISCOVERED — SEARCH FOR SAN PABLO
-MULGRAVE ISLANDS — BAPHAM'S, HUNTER'S. AND BARING'S ISLANDS — M'KENZIE'S
GROUP.

(351)

^-i- U.

1

CHAPTER VII.

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

1841.

By the 28th of October, all the exploring parties had returned, and

the duties of the observatory and surveys were completed. The in-

struoients were at once embarked, and preparations made to sail with
the first fair wind.

By a series of observations of moon culminating stars, the longitude

of Sausalito Fort was found to be 122° 25' 36" W.; the latitude, by
numerous akitudes, 37° 50' 50" N. Full series of magnetic observa-
tions were also made, with the usual meteorological record. The
mean temperature for the eighty days' during which the Vincennes lay
at Sausalito was 61-6°.

The addition of the brig Oregon to the squadron rendered many
changes necessary in the distribution of the officers. The command
of that vessel was given to Lieutenant Carr, first lieutenant of the
Vincennes, and such officers were ordered to act under him as would
insure efficiency and harmony in the duties that remained to be com-
pleted.

It was with no little regret that I parted with Lieutenant Carr, who
had been the executive officer of my ship for upwards of two years,
during w^hich time his duties had been at all times responsible, arduous,
and valuable to the Expedition. By his excellent management the
vessel had been kept in the best possible order, and while the comforts
of the men were carefully attended to, the rules and regulations of the
vessel were strictly enforced. In addition to the sufficiently arduous
duties of executive officer, he was, during my frequeat and necessary
absences, charged not only with the duties on board, but with those of
the observatory, and w^as, besides, my assistant in the care of the

w

(253)

254 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

chronometers. My regret at parting with him gave wa}^, however, to
the pleasure of assigning him a station to which his conduct had so
justly entitled him, and which he was so well qualified to fill.

To complete our supplies for the return voyage, it was expedient
that we should again visit ih-e Haw^aiian Group: this w^as rendered
absolutely necessary, in order to procure clothing for those who had
lost every thing by the wreck of the Peacock ; for deficiency in that
important article might, had we pursued the direct route to the China
Seas, have subjected the men, who had already undergone so much
exposure, to the attacks of disease.

This necessity, added to the other delays the unfortunate loss of the
Peacock had caused, was a source of profound regret, as it prevented
me from availing myself of the permission granted in my instructions,
to enter the Sea of Japan, through the Straits of Sangan I gave up
this plan, to which I had looked forward as one of the most interest-
ing parts of our cruise, with great reluctance; but the season was
rapidly passing, and to undertake this remote expedition would render
it impossible to accomplish the other objects marked out for me pre-
vious to my return to the United States. We might not, perhaps,
have succeeded in entering into communication with the inhabitants
of that interesting and little-known country; but we might certainly,
by landing on some of the islands adjacent to its coast, have obtained
much interesting information, and added greatly to the collections of
our scientific departments.

On the 1st of November, we had a wind that enabled us to make
sail, although it was late in the day before it was sufficiently strong,
and by that time the ebb tide was far spent. To avoid any farther
loss of time, I determined to make the attempt. Signal w^as accord-
ingly made; and the vessels w^ere in a few minutes under way, and
standing out of the harbour. It may, indeed, be said, that it is prac-
ticable to enter and depart from this port whenever the tide is favour-
able. We continued beating out to gain an offing until towards sun-
set, w^hen it fell calm, and the tide failed us. The Vincennes was,
therefore, compelled to anchor in six and three-fourths fathoms water,
three miles from the land; and signal was made to the two brigs,
which W' ere about three miles outside of our position, to do the same.

On our coming to anchor, there was scarcely any swell, and the
ship lay almost as still as if she had been within the harbour. The
sun set clear, and every thing betokened a calm and quiet night.

At about 10 p. M. the swell began to increase, without any apparent
cause, and so rapidly as to awaken my anxiety; but being in such
deep water, I thought that the vessel was sufficiently distant from the

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 255

bar not to be exposed to any breakers- As the flood continued to
make, the swell increased, and by midnight we were enveloped in fog,
without a breath of air, and the ship rode over the rollers, that were
now becoming very heavy, and caused her to pitch violently. There
was, however, no break to them; but as ample scope of cable had been
given, the ship occasionally swung broadside to, when the heavy pitch-
ing was changed to rolling, so deep as to endanger our masts. At
2 A. M. a breaker was heard outside of us, passing in with the roar of
a surf, after which they became constant, and really awful. The ship
might now be said to be riding in breakers of gigantic size ; they rushed
onwards with such a tremendous roar and violence, that as each wave
was heard approaching, it became a source of apprehension until it had
safely passed. Such was its force that when it struck the ship, the
chain cable would surge, the ring-stoppers part, and some few fathoms
of the cable escape. As the time of high water approached, the roar
of these immense breakers was constant. The ship was as if tempest-
tost, and our situation became at each moment one of greater solici-
tude. The actual danger of wreck was not indeed great, for in the
event of parting our cable, the tide would have carried us towards ihc
harbour, and into deeper water, where the rollers w^ould have ceased to
break ; and there was no great danger that we would drift on the bar,
which w^as a mile or two to the northward of our position.

I looked forward with anxiety for the time of high water, as the
period w^hen we should be relieved from our unpleasant situation, not
only by the change in the course of the tide, but also by the cessation
of the breakers.

Our situation afforded me an opportunity of measuring the velocity
of the waves as they passed the ship ; and though the distance was
short, yet the observations were numerous, and gave the velocity at
from fifteen to eighteen miles an hour; their estimated height was over
thirty feet, their width, from eight hundred to one thousand feet.

At half-past three, one of these immense breakers struck the ship
f broad on the bow, and broke with its full force on board : the cable

surged; the stoppers were carried away; and the whole spar-deck
swept fore and aft; the boats and booms broke adrift, the former were
stove, and the latter thrown with violence to one side.

Unfortunately, Joseph Allshouse, a marine, who was in the act of
ascending the ladder at the time, was struck by one of the spars, and
so much injured that he died a few hours afterwards.

It was not until between eeven and eight o'clock that the ship could

/

be relieved from this situation: at that time a light air from the land
sprung up, of which advantage was at once taken to weigh our anchor.

256

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

The rollers, however, had by this time ceased to break, the sea began
to fall, and a few hours afterwards regained its former placid and quiet
state. The fog was still dense when we reached deep water where we
again dropped anchor ; but shortly after the weather cleared up, and
we had communication with the Porpoise and Oregon; they havino*
reached deeper water, had fortunately not experienced any of the
rollers.

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It now became our melancholy duty to bury poor Allshouse. He had
been one of those who had been long attached to the Expedition, and
always conducted himself with propriety.

We afterwards got under way, and stood for the bay of Monterey,
into which I sent the Porpoise with despatches for the United States,
ordering her to land them, and then make the best of her way to the
Sandwich Islands, in case she did not meet the Vincennes.

The next day being foggy, I bore away in company with the

Oregon.

On the 5th, the weather continuing thick and foggy, with strong
breezes from the northward and westward, I made all sail and parted

company.

On the 6th, the full, allowance of bread was again served to the

crew.

!

I

I

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 257

The wind on the 7th, when we had reached the latitude of 27° N.,
began to incline to the northeast, and the temperature became mild.

In the latitude of 26° N., we entered the trades, being then in the
longitude of 134° W. The weather peculiar to the region of the
trades was now experienced, with light squalls of rain and a heavy sea
following us, wdnch caused the ship to be very uneasy.

On the nights of the 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th, the usual look-outs
for the periodic showers of meteors w^ere stationed; but the weather
was not favourable, and the number counted was not above that
usually seen on fine nights. On the latter day, I shaped our course
to run over one of the positions of Copper's Island, supposed to exist
in longitude 151° 36' W., and latitude 25° 48' N. On the afternoon
of the 14lh, w^e w'ere within five miles of its assigned place, and the
weather was perfectly fine, with a clear horizon, but there was no
appearance of land.

On Ihe morning of the 16th, we made the island of Maui, and at
noon we were off its western end. I then determined to run through
the Pailolo Channel, between iVIaui and Molokai. On approaching
the island of Maui on its north side, there is some liability to mistake
the isthmus for the opening of the channel, as that part of the island
called West Maui is frequently enveloped in clouds.

The trade-wind, as we passed through, blew very strong. The
scenery is very bold, the two islands of Maui and Lanai lying on the
left, with that of Molokai on the right: they are all high and volcanic,
and during a strong trade-wind are capped w^ith clouds and constantly
undergoing changes from the shadows thrown upon them; these, with
the town and shipping lying ofFLahaina, form a pleasing picture- The
day being far spent, I hove the ship to for the night under the west
end of Molokai. The current experienced during our passage was
found to prevail to the southward, until we reached the trades, when it
inclined somewhat to the southward and westward.

The 17th, at daylight, we made the island of Oahu, and at 10 a. m.
anchored off the town of Honolulu. The Porpoise came in at 2 p. m.,
and the Flying-Fish at five o'clock of the same day. The following
day the trade-wind was too strong to admit of the Vincennes entering
the inner harbour; but the Porpoise and tender w^ere enabled to do so.
The Oregon joined us in the afternoon, and on the next day at an
early hour the squadron was again moored in the harbour of Honolulu.
Our reception was even kinder than before; and every facility that
we could desire was offered for advancing our duties and procuring
the necessary stores and clothing that our shipwrecked officers and
men required,

VOL. V. W 2 33

258 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

It was my first intention here to part with the Flying-Fish, for the
reports of her comnaander led me to believe that she was becoming
unseaworthy. She was, therefore, thoroughly exaniined; but the
report made upon her was sufficiently satisfactory to determine me to
retain her until we had passed through our explorations in the Sooloo
Seas. She was refitted and put in as good condition as possible for
service. Captain Hudson superintended these duties, while I had my
time fully occupied in making the magnetic experiments for the third
time, and attending to the rates of the chronometers.

Honolulu showed signs of improvement, but I regretted to perceive
that during the year the morals of the place seemed to have declined.
The number of grog-shops had apparently increased, and the sailors'
dancing-halls, with their music, were allowed more license than at
our first visit. Yet, as far as the prompt execution of the law went,
I did not find the authorities deficient. Indeed, at times. Governor
Kekuanaoa is rather too precipitate in his decisions, of which we soon
had an instance.

During our stay of ten days, the crews were allowed in turn,
recreation on shore. Among the number was Lewis Herron, the
cooper. In the course of his liberty, he was desirous of entering
one of the sailors' boarding-houses, at the door of which his progress
was arrested by a coloured man, who was on guard with an old
cutlass, and who threatened Herron with violence if he attempted to
enter. This, Herron, though usually a very quiet and orderly man,
at once resented; and the altercation finally came to an angry dispute
as to who was the better man. Herron, determined to prove that he
was, laid hold of the sentry, overthrew him, took the rusty cutlass
away, and struck him with it so as to give the man a slight scratch
on the leg. Herron now brandished his weapon in victory; but being
told by the bystanders that it was unlawful to carry weapons, he
determined to take it himself to the governor at the fort, and deliver
it up. On his way thither, and just before he arrived, he was met by
some soldiers, who at once seized and carried him before the governor,
with the sword in his hand, which he had refused to give up to any

one else.

The governor had a kind of trial held by himself, and not accord-
ing to law, (which provides for trial by jury,) to which he summoned
the very man who had caused the quarrel, as a witness, without any
formality or oath, and sentenced Herron to fifty dollars fine, and to
receive one hundred lashes; while the person who had been guilty of
using the arms, received but a nominal fine. One of the officers
hearinsr of the circumstance in the afternoon, went to see Herron,

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 259

heard his story, and then saw the governor, who promised that the
man should have another hearing or trial the next morning, at nine
o'clock, and that he should not be punished until I was informed
of it. In the morning, however, to my great surprise, I heard that,
by the governor's orders, and in his presence, Hcrron had, at eight
o'clock, an hour before the time his new trial was to take place,
received twenty-eight lashes. On learning this circumstance, an officer
was at once sent to wait upon the governor, to request an explanation
of the proceedings, and that Herron might be given up, and held sub-
ject to the governors order, for a proper trial. On receiving the
officer, Governor Kckuanaoa declared that it was a misunderstanding
relative to his having promised a new trial, and declined giving up the
man. In consequence of this, I at once sent a message to demand
him, and to state that if he was not surrendered, I should be obliged
to take him, for I would not suffer him to remain any longer in the
keeping of persons who would inflict punishment with so much precipi-
tation. This caused his delivery. Shortly after, I received a letter,
telling me that the corporeal part of his punishment was remitted, but
demanding the fine. I took this occasion to write the governor a
letter, pointing out wherein he had erred, in order that he might not
fall into a similar error; which I have inserted in Appendix VIIL

The next day I was notified that he would be again tried before a
legal tribunal, viz.: the governor and the United States consul. The
day after, he was accoi'dingly sent on shore to undergo a trial, which
he himself wished, for the*purpose of proving whether he was guilty
and subject to the fine. The trial of Herron took place in the grass-
house of the king, that has been before described; the scene was
characteristic, and will show the manner of conducting trials in the
Hawaiian Islands. Governor Kekuanaoa, the American consul, Cap-
tain Hudson, Dr. Judd of the American Mission, who acted as inter-
preter, and several officers belonging to the squadron, as well as those
of the government police, numerous residents, of all colours and classes,
the prisoner, his friends and accusers, were present. At one table the
governor and Dr. Judd were seated, at another the consul and Captain
Hudson, while the prisoner and witnesses, with the spectators, were
standing in groups around. The court was opened in due form, and
Dr. Judd stated the indictment, to which Herron pleaded not guilty ;
everything was conducted with due solemnity; the oath was then
administered by the American consul, to the witnesses on both sides.
Dr. Judd examined and interpreted the whole. During this proceeding
all were deeply intent in ferreting out the truth, with the exception of
his excellency the governor, who was occupied most of the time in

260

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

searching his little white pet dog, that was lying on the table before
him, for fleas. The whole trial was, however, fairly conducted, and
resulted in proving that Herron was guilty. Herron was fined fifty
dollars, w^hich was paid, and the business ended.

I was satisfied, how^ever, that the governor, whose conduct as an
officer I have heretofore had occasion to speak of in high terms^ had
in this case acted with unbecoming haste and inconsiderateness, at
the same time was wanting in delicacy to his best friends, for we, of
all nations, are the most inclined to respect his laws and uphold his
authority. I called upon him before my departure, to take leave,
when he admitted that the course he had pursued was an unusual one,
when foreigners were concerned ; but from the explanations he made,
I was satisfied his intention w^as to do right, but like many others w^hen
vested with authority, he was not inclined to delay action on a case he
considered so clear as this. It proved a good lesson for him, and I do
not believe he will err in the same w^ay again*

During this last visit, a whale-ship arrived, having in her cruise

visited the coast of Japan, and, on one of the small islands, picked up
five Japanese, who had been wrecked, and w^ere found destitute of the
means of sustaining life ; they had been there for several months be-
fore he took them on board. The man and boy were of small stature
and diminutive appearance. They were possessed of little intelligence,
and were of the lower order, probably fishermen. Mr. Agate made a
drawing of one of them.

JAPANESE,

Of

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 261

yet spoken. The former is, at present, confined within very narrow
I limits. The islands produce but Httle, and their consumption of foreign

' products is necessarily small. The capabilities of the islands have

generally been underrated, for their soil and climate are suitable for
raising all tropical productions in considerable quantities, and at a
moderate cost. But very little investment of capital has yet taken
place, and the business that has induced the establishment of several
( commercial houses has been more that of transit than for the purpose

of supplying the consumption of the islands, or obtaining their exports.
A table of statistics, (see Appendix IX.,) which was pubhshcd in a
newspaper at Oahu, compiled by intelligent merchants there, gives the
amount of imports at four hundred and fifty-five thousand dollars.
These are the amounts of goods actually landed — I do not include
those that have been brought in, and retained on board ships; while
the exports of native produce are no more than ninety-eight thousand
* dollars : one-half of the imports are set down as from the United

. States. From this great difference between the imports and exports,
it would appear that many of these articles must have been reshipped
to other ports, or are still on hand. The latter I believe to be the case.
During the year for which the returns are given, more has certainly

been consumed on the islands than in former years ; but the interdic-
tion of trade by foreign vessels on the coast of California, together
with the exorbitant duties there, have most effectually paralysed all
trade in that quarter, and, therefore, the goods intended for that
market were landed at Oahu, and remained in store there. The
trade on the Northwest Coast, formerly so much resorted to by our
vessels, is entirely broken up by the Russians, w^ho have interdicted
the taking of furs on the coast of their territory, and obtain their
supplies exclusively from the Hudson Bay Company, or by the latter,
who have adopted the principle of underselling all competitors, and
have thereby caused a monopoly, which effectually shuts out all small
traders. Some articles of Chinese manufacture are sent from the
Sandwich Islands to Mexico, but to no great amount. There are,
comparatively, few transient vessels that call at these islands on their
way to China, and the whole trade seems now confined to but a few
vessels.

Although the Sandwich Islands are not so fruitful as many of the
other islands of Polynesia, yet their geographical situation has ren-
dered them hitherto by far the most important group in the Pacific
Ocean.

They are the favourite and most convenient resort for those whale-

262 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

ships whose cruising-ground is the North Pacific ; and the amount of
property engaged in this business, visiting the ports of the Sandwich
Islands annually, is equal to three millions of dollars. To the supply
of this fleet, the labour of the inhabitants has principally been directed.
The groves of sandalwood, which were formerly represented bv a
number of designing persons, who professed a strong friendship for
the chiefs, to be an inexhaustible mine of w^ealth, soon gave out. The
chiefs have ceased to look to them as a source of profit, and have
begun the cultivation of sugar, which, together with silk, now attract

much attention ; but, until some capital be invested in these cultures,
and the business be better understood, these articles cannot be raised
to any large amount; yet the provisions and supplies to ships, suf-
fice to afford all the necessary comforts to the inhabitants of this
group.

Fortunately for the Sandwich Islands, they have no port that is
defensible against a strong naval force, and therefore their consequence
will be comparatively small in a political point of view. No foreign
powder, in fact, could well hold them, without great expense and diffi-
culty. Honolulu is the port where vessels can best receive repairs, but
it can only be used by the smaller class. By these circumstances, the
neutral position of this group I think is insured ; and this is most
desirable for its peace and happiness. This fact seems to me to be
tacitly acknowledged by the maritime powers, as no attempt has as yet
been made to take possession of them, and they will, in all probability,
be long left in the enjoyment of their neutrality, which King Kameha-
meha IIL is now endeavouring to establish thi'ough a formal recog-
nition of his kingdom by the United States, England, and France, by
negotiations that are now pending. Such recognition will render them
less liable, if not altogether exempt from aggressions, exerted in the
manner that has already been related, in the course of this Narrative.
These islands seem intended for peaceful occupations alone; their pro-
ducts, situation, and inhabitants, require and wish it. The power on
which the}' must become dependent hereafter, is that which is to be
established in Oregon and California; and, adapted as they are to
supply all the products of the tropics, they wnll become a valuable
appendage to those states ; but, I deem the idea entertained by many,
who suppose they ever can become so powerful as to command those
states, to be a mistake. So far as the consumption of a small amount
of manufactures 20, and the convenience of our whaling fleet, but no

t)

farther, they will be beneficial to the United States. In this relation, the
character of the government becomes a source of solicitude to us. It

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 2G3

is the interest of the United States that they should maintain the
neutrality that they seek to establish, and should not be permitted to
fall into the hands of any other powen

I am rather disposed to think that, in the progress of civilization in
the South Seas, this group will be considered of less importance than
it now appears, and instead ot its being looked to as it now is, as a
point of attraction, or a place wherein to obtain information and
supplies, it will be only visited by whalers for recruiting. Tlieir growth
1 has already arrived at the greatest extent to which it can ever reach.

A direct communication with Oregon and California will do away with
the necessity of intercourse through the islands; they must, conse-
quently, be left to their own resources to maintain trade; and when
California and the Oregon Territory can aflbrd the whalers equal advan-
tages, which, wdicn settled, they will do in a few years; the advantages
derived from this source will be withdrawal. Unfortunately for these
islands, a fictitious importance has been ascribed to their geographical
position, in the belief that much political ascendency in the Pacific must
accrue to the nation which may possess them ; this state of opinion has
been brought about by the exertions of the American missionaries, w^ho
have been the means of raising the natives so rapidly in the scale of
civilization, and from whose success our countrymen have acquired
much influence. This ascendency, how^ever, has been partly the means
of provoking a sectarian war, which has brought about much trouble,
and been the cause of great distress both to the king and people. These
troubles have probably been of some advantage to the people, and
afforded the means of increasing their wealth, and causing a demand
for their products, which, though trifling as to amount, yet in such a

small community has been sensibly felt, and has enabled them to obtain
many advantages they could not have had otherwise. I have some
doubt whether the Hawaiian Islands can ever become an independent
nation by the exertion of their own people, since they have unwisely
invited foreigners to reside among them, and given them equal rights
and privileges with natives. Endeavours are now making to introduce
foreign labourers and capital, which, although proceeding from a dispo-
sition to advance and develope the resources of the islands, will have a
tendency to injure the native labouring population. The introduction
of foreign labour will necessarily bring with it foreign habits and
custom, which the natives are, even now, too prone to imitate; and the
examples that are set before them are generally, if not always, of the
worst description.

The inducements held out to the king and chiefs to make large

264 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

grants of land to foreigners, have been great; but such grants can
never be carried into effect without endangering the very existence of
the government and people. In all cases that came within my know-
ledge on the islands, the object of the majority of foreign residents was
solely to increase their own w^ealth ; and on the accumulation of a
suiRcient amount, they withdraw^ from the islands, taking their capital
with them ; and this will always be the case. So far, therefore, as
their influence goes, instead of enriching the islanders, their exertions
have in some degree had a contrary effect, and the result does not
justify those engaged in mercantile pursuits, In attributing the advance-
ment of the islands to themselves; on the contrary, they leave very
little but evil habits and vices behind them. Few foreigners have made
any permanent improvements, and when they have, they pass into the
hands of others, to the exclusion of the natives, who are looked upon
and treated as slaves.

It is impossible for a disinterested person to reside any time among
these natives, without imbibing a strong interest in the progress of
their institutions, and the developement of their government. In the
Hawarians are seen many things to condemn ; but they have, on the
other hand, many good qualities, which their religious instructors are
endeavouring by every means in their powder to foster and develope.
In taking leave of them, I cannot recall a single instance in which
they did not conduct themselves towards us with a full belief that
they were acting right ; and I feel rejoiced to say, that during all our
intercourse with them, no incident occurred to mar the harmony
which existed on our first arrival. I am, indeed, fully persuaded that
with proper attention and forbearance no difficulties will ever occur.
One thing, however, ought always to be borne in mind on visiting
this island, viz., that too much credit must not be given to those who
w^ill on your first arrival endeavour to impress on you their own
views of the character of the people, and of those who have been
their benefactors, and are constant in their exertions to promote the
welfare of those they live among. The natives and the latter class
are far better able to judge what the islands require or stand in need
of than any casual visiter, or he who may be a sojourner only for a

few wrecks.

I shall always think with pleasure and satisfaction of the many
friends we left here ; and I am fully satisfied, that, with few excep-
tions, and those growing out of a mistaken zeal, our country has just
reason to be proud of the advance these islanders have made within
the last twenty-five years in civilization, morals, and religion, an ad-

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA, 265

vance that has been almost wholly the work of our citizens, either at
home or abroad, the one in furnishing the means, the other in giving
the instruction.

The Expedition had become so much identified with the history of
these islands during our stay, that we were made familiar with all
the village scandal Few who live in such small places are aware
how unfavourable an impression they make upon visiters, and the
bad light in which they appear, by this habit of talking of each other ;
whatever may be the terms on which they 'associate together, or how-
ever discordant the materials of which the society is composed, they
would do well to avoid showing their uncharitable feelings, or making
use of detraction to create a bias against others.

On the afternoon of the 27th November, the squadron being pre-
pared, w-e took leave of our kind friends, and particularly of those
belonging to the mission, to whom I feel under many obligations for
their uniform kindness to us. We then joined our vessels, and at
8 p. M. took our final leave of the Hawaiian Islands.

At midnight, signal w^as made to heave-to, in order that I might
finish the instructions for the different vessels. Although it was out
of my powder to visit Japan, I had determined if possible to ascertain
the character of the currents off that island. I therefore directed the
Porpoise and Oregon to follow out, and explore the shoals and reck
extending in a west-northwest direction from the Haw^aiian Islands,*
and proceed until they fell in with the current or stream that is sup-
posed by some to set along the coasts of Japan, and resemble the Gulf
Stream off our own coast. This done, they w^ere ordered to proceed
through the China Seas, to Singapore, in the Straits of Malacca*

With the Vincennes and tender it was my intention to proceed to
Strong's and Ascension Islands, which the Peacock had been unable
to reach in her cruise, examinitjg every shoal that might lie in my
w^ay, and thence to Manilla. I proposed on leaving that port to ex-
plore and survey the Sooloo Archipelago, then proceeding to Singa-
pore to meet the brigs, fill up with provisions, and thence sail for the
United States, where it was incumbent on me to arrive by the 3Ist
of May following. This, agreeably to my promise to my crew a
year previous, left me just six months to perform the duty, of which
at least one hundred and forty days were required for the actual
passage.

We parted company from the brigs the next day at noon, and bore
. away under all sail to the southward and westward. At 4 p. m., the

* For the instructions of Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, see Appendix X*

VOL. V. X ^^

266 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA,

Flying-Fish made the signal " in want of assistance;" and on coming
within hail, reported that her mainmast was sprung. Carpenters were
at once sent on board, who reported that the mast was quite sound:
the vessels were reduced to easy sail for the night in order to keep
in company, as I intended in the morning, when the sea should have
decreased, to have a farther examination of it.

I had now the prospect of another obstacle, in the delays this
vessel must occasion me with a sprung mast, if such should prove to
be the case, which I could, however, scarcely bring myself to believe.
In order to secure an examination of the Sooloo Sea, which was a part
of my original instructions, I determined to give Mr. Knox orders t^
act by himself, in case I found it necessary to push at once to Manilla
and avoid detention, directing him to touch at Strong's and Ascension
Islands, and to part company if she proved to be sound in her spars
after a few days' trial, which the sea and wind then prevailing would
fully prove. As soon as I came to this conclusion, Mr. Knox was
sent for, Assistant-Surgeon Whittle, a carpenter, and two extra men
ordered to join the tender, and my instructions relative to his pro-
ceedings, which will be found in Appendix XL, fully explained to him.
On the 30th, we parted company with her, being in the latitude of
Maloon's Island, and one hundred and ten miles due east of it: I
steered a west course through the night under easy sail. At daylight
sail was again made, and by noon we found the ship, by good obser-
vations, in latitude 19^ 19' N., longitude 165^ 25' W. The supposed
position of the island being in latitude 19° 20' N., and longitude 165'
20' W., we had consequently passed directly over the place, with the
weather so clear as to render all objects within a radius of fifteen miles
perfectly distinct, and with two look-outs at the masthead, yet no signs
of land were visible. I continued in its latitude until we had passed
seventy miles to the westward, when we steered for another island,
laid down in Arrowsmith's charts in longitude ,166^ 48' W., and lati-
tude 19^ 17' N. On its parallel, we ran for sixty miles east and w^est
of the assigned place; but in like manner, there was nothing perceived
that indicated any proximity to land.

On the 3d of December, we ran over the locality of a shoal, lying in
170^ 30' W., and latitude 18^ 20' N. This was likewise searched for,
over a space of sixty miles east and west of its supposed locality.

Jane's Island, supposed to be in longitude 173"^ 15' W., latitude 16

10' N., w^as next searched for. In doing this, I was greatly surprised
to find that we had entered a strong current setting to the northward
and westward. Our difference of latitude showed 24', and we were
at once compelled to haul up to the southward, to reach the supposed

r

f

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 2G7

locality of the island. We passed about five miles to the westward of
its place, but no sign of land was seen- This was the first day since
leaving Oahu, that we were able to w^ite with any degree of conn fort,-
the sea having, become perfectly smooth.

I was at first disposed to doubt the accuracy of the observations for
latitude, but the next day (5th December) proved them to be correct,
nearly the same difference having occurred.

On the 6th, we reached the position of Gaspar Island, in latitude
IS*^ N., and as the different localities assigned it varied considerably in
longitude, I determined to run on its parallel until I had passed them all.

On the 7th, we dropped a day, passing into east longitude. Our
winds had become light, varying from the east to the southw^est
quarters, and it was generally calm throughout the night, so that we
made little progress.

On the 10th, the current was found setting west-southwest three
quarters of a mile, both by the difference of the observations, and the
current-log. The pot, at this time, was seen at thirty-two fathoms
depth, several fathoms lower than at any previous observation. The
temperature of the water was 81^, the day fine, and beautifully clear.

We continued on the parallel of latitude 15° N. until the 14th, when
we found ourselves in the longitude of 174*^ 50' E., having passed over
all the localities assigned the island, between longitude 175° W. and

174° 20' E. I am fully satisfied that it does not exist within U^ose
meridians.

Having been thus retarded, the fear I entertained of meeting with
light, and in all probability, westerly winds, determined me to forego
my visit to Strong's and Ascension Islands, and haul to the northward,
to look for some of the many shoals laid down on the track usually
pursued by ships bound to the China Seas.

After this determination was made, I hauled up for an island said to
exist in longitude 171° 42' E., and latitude 16° N. On the night of the
15th we hove-to in order to run over the locality by daylight. This
position was passed over, and forty miles to the westward of it explored,
but nothitig indicating a proximity to land was seen. The supposed
site of Cornwallis Island, in longitude 169° 33' E., and latitude 16° 51'
N., was in like manner passed over.

Wake's Island next claimed my attention. On the 19th we reached
its parallel, and hove-to till daylight of the 20th, when we discovered
it, bearing west-by-north, about nine miles distant. The wind was
light from the north-northeast After breakfast, several boats were
sent to survey the island. Wake's Island is a low coral one, of trian-
gular form, and eight feet above the surface. It has a large lagoon

268 SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA.

in the centre, which was well filled with fish of a variety of species;
among these were some fine mullet. There is no fresh water on the
island, and neither pandanus nor cocoa-nut trees. It has upon it the
shrubs which are usually found on the low islands of the Pacific, the
most abundant of which was the Tournefortia. Mr. Peale found here
the short-tailed albatross, and procured an egg from its nest. The
birds were quite tame, although they were not so numerous as we had
before met with on uninhabited islands.

The time of low water took place at one o'clock, and the moon
entered its last quarter on the same day: the tide was setting along the
shore of the island with much strength to the westward ; the rise and
fall was three feet. From appearances, the island must be at times
submerged, or the sea makes a complete breach over it ; the appearance
of the coral blocks and of all the vegetation leads to this conclusion, for
they have a very decided inclination to the eastward, showing also that
the violent winds or rush of the water, when the island is covered, are
from the westward. The reef around this island is very small in extent.

The position of Wake's Island was found by my observations of
equal altitudes on shore to be in longitude 166^ 31' 30" E., and latitude
19^ 10' 54" N.

By four o'clock, p. m-, all the boats had returned on board, when we
filled away and proceeded on our course to the westward. Although
these coral islands resemble one another very strongly, yet they afforded
us some recreation for a few hours, and much satisfaction in obtaining
series of observations in magnetism. Our visit to Wake's Island gave
us an opportunity of adding to our collections in natural history.

In the evening we steered to pass over the position of Halcyon
Island,— longitude 163^ 30' K, latitude 19^ 13' N.; and on the 27th,
we passed immediately over its locality, and had run on its supposed
parallel fifty miles on each side of it, but nothing was seen of it. We
now felt the current to the southeast twelve miles in the twenty-four

hours.

Folger's Island next claimed my attention : it is said to lie in longi-
tude ISS"" 19' E., latitude 18^ 21' N. This position was passed over,
but the inquiry resulted as the others had, in a fruitless search.

J now bore away for Grlgan, the northernmost of the inhabited
Ladrone or Marian Islands, which w^e made on the 29th December, at
7 A. M., bearing south-southwest. As we approached these islands, we
had experienced a strong current to the northward and westward; and
the wind had also veered to the southward and westward.

At midnight, we discovered the island of Assumption, bearing north-
east-bv-east.

I

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 269

\ The island of Grigan appears to be about eight miles in width, seen

from the north, and has the form of a dome. Its height, by a very
unsatisfactory observation, was two thousand three hundred feet. It
was my intention to stop and make it a magnetic station ; but the
weather appeared so thick as to threaten delay; and this I could ill
afford, so I gave up the idea.

There is said to be no other settlement than one small village, on the

southwest side of Grigan, where a few individuals dwell, and I under-
stood that they were headed by an American ; its shores are almost
perpendicular, and it has no coral reefs to form harbours ; so that in
this respect it is not so much favoured as the southern isles of the same
group. The passage between Grigan and Assumption is free from
dangers, and I am w^ell satisfied that no shoal exists where Freycinet
has laid down the Mangs, for we passed directly over the locality, and

saw nothing of the kind. The Mangs were seen in their true position,
to the northward of Assumption.

The w^ind w^as light and variable. On the 1st of January, 1842, it
changed to the southwest; with this change of wind we experienced a
fall both of the thermometer and barometer, and excessive dampness ;
we had some lightning, and at midnight a violent squall with rain burst
upon us, attended by a shift of wind to the northward and westward,
which afterw^ards hauled to the northw^ard and eastward. A slight
current was felt setting to the eastward.

We now steered for the most eastern position assigned to Copper's
Island, as it will no doubt be recollected that we ran over its supposed
position in west longitude, on the passage between San Francisco and
Oahu, mentioned in the first part of this chapter. On the 4th, we ran
over the position in longitude 131° 54' E-, and latitude 20^ 11' N. The
Abajos Shoal of Arrowsmith has na existence; its position was passed
over in broad daylight.

On the 5th, we felt a current to the west of fifteen miles. The
variations of the compass were now to the westward ; much phos-
phorescence in the water; its temperature was 75^^. The slight
current continued until the 8th, when we made the islands of Sab-
tang and Batan on the starboard side, and the Richmond Rocks on the
larboard, steering a westerly course through the Balingtang Straits.
The weather being remarkably fine, we had excellent observations on
transit bearing- The longitude of the west point of Sabtang is 12r
50' 30" E., the latitude is In 20^ 18' N., instead of 20M1' N. In the
strait we had strong ripples, and occasionally felt the influence of the
current, as we passed through them.

We had now left the Pacific Ocean, and I could not but rejoice that
we had all the results of our cruise up to this time quite safe.

X2

270 SAN FPANCISCO TO MANILLA.

m

Sabtang and Batan are of broken surface, shooting up into many
remarkable peaks, to the elevation of a thousand feet. These are
both inhabited, and afford one or two anchorages.

In the route from Oahu, we had experienced a set to the westward
of four hundred miles by current; the greater part of this was felt
before reaching the meridian of the Ladrone Islands.

I now stood to the southward along the island of Luzon, to pass
just clear of Cape Bolinao. On the 9th, we continued to have very
strong winds. A very heavy sea arose, without apparent cause; the
progressing motion of the waves in passing the ship was twenty-two
miles per hour; their width, as near as it could be ascertained, was
one hundred and forty yards-

At sunset of the 10th, we were off Cape Capones, and numerous
lights were seen on shore. The breeze failed us after midnight, and
in the morning we found that we had drifted some thirty miles to
the leeward of Cape Miravales, having Cape Capones due north, the
current having set to the southward. As the breeze was adverse to
our entrance into the bay, we continued beating until the afternoon,
when the sea-breeze gave us the hope of reaching the anchorage; but
it was so feeble that we made no way, and the night was again passed

under sail.

The next day, the 12th, was also passed in working up for the city
of Manilla. For this delay I had something to console me in the
arrival of the Flying-Fish, which vessel was discovered at 3^ 30°* p. m.
beating in- Signal was made for her to join company.

On arriving at the island of Corregidor, we were boarded by a go-
vernment galley, pulling sixteen oars, and having a large brass twelve-
pound piece mounted on the bow. These vessels, I understood, are
intended principally to pursue the pirates of Sooloo, who not unfre-
quently make excursions among the islands, attacking the villages,
and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves. They are manned by the
natives of this island, who are represented as active and expert sailors,
although they are, generally, of small size.

After dark, w^e anchored about eight miles from the city, in the
middle of the broad and beautiful expanse of its bay, which is nearly
circular, with an almost uniform depth of water. I learned, whilst at
Manilla,' that since the settlement of Europeans, the bay has filled up
in places very considerably, from the wash of the hills. The lands in
the vicinity are high and mountainous, and are clothed with the vege-
tation of the tropics. After dark, the many lights that were seen in
the direction of the city gave the bay an animated appearance, and
bespoke our being near a large and active population.

Mr. Knox renorted to me that after his separation, on the 30th of

SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILLA. 271

November, he stood for the position of Cornwallis Island, as laid
down by Arrowsmith in longitude 1G9° 31' W., latitude 16° 50' N.,
without seeing any indication of land. Twenty-two miles to the
south-by-east of this position, he discovered a reef, which surrounded
an extensive lagoon, extending northeast and southwest ten miles, and
in the opposite direction five miles. On the northwest side of this
I reef there are two low islets : the one to the w^estward was covered

with bushes, but no trees ; the other was no more than a sand-bank.
This reef lies deep. The longitude of the westernmost islet was
found to be 169° 45' 36" W., and latitude 16° 48' N. He then bore
away for San Pedro of Arrowsmith, in longitude 179° 00' W., and
latitude 11° 17' N., and on the 7th of December sailed over it and on
its parallel forty miles both east and west, but saw no indications of
land whatever.

The Mulgrave Islands were steered for, and two small islands made
on the 16th, in the position of longitude 172° 02' 33" K, and latitude
5° 59' 15" N., which corresponds with the chart of Arrowsmith,
They are low islets, extending two miles from north to south, and one
and a half from east to west. They are connected by a reef, which
surrounds a lagoon. Natives were seen upon them, but no communi-
cation was had with them.

Bapham's, a lagoon island, was made on the 17th: it was found to
be correctly located ; it is also inhabited.

Hunter's Island w^as made the same evening, and was examined the
next day : it is one and three quarters of a mile long, north and south,
and two-thirds of a mile east and west; it is elevated in the centre,
and has no lagoon; its position was ascertained to be in longitude
169° 05' 46" E., and latitude 5* 42' N.

Baring's Island was next passed in 168° 26' 24" E., latitude 5° 34'
42" N. The current experienced off these islands was from fifteen to
twenty-five miles easterly.

It having been strongly enjoined upon Mr. Knox not to be behind
the time designated for his arrival at Manilla, he found, on his reach-
ing the equator, that but twenty-two days of his time remained :
having already experienced light winds and calms, he saw that it
would be impossible to range through the Caroline Group and visit
Ascension and Strong's Islands ; he therefore determined to haul again
to the northward, and passed several of the groups in a higher latitude,

On the 26th, he passed over the situation ascribed to Faroilip
Island, in latitude 10° 45' N., longitude 146° 27' K, without any
indications of land. He then sought Feis Island, whose position was
crossed on the 27th, but saw no land.

272

SAN FRANCISCO TO IMANILLA,

The eastern extremity of M'Kenzie's Group was made on the 29th,

in latitude 10° 07' 53" N., longitude 139° 54' 58" E. To the north-

ward and w^estward of it, a supposed shoal was passed over, but none
was found.

M'Kenzie's Group is of greater extent than is represented on the
maps. It is composed of a great many islets, with passages between
them, some of them into the lagoon, through one of which the
schooner entered, with not less than seven fathoms water on the bar.
This group is thickly inhabited, and some of the natives boarded the
schooner. They resembled the Caroline Islanders, but had their teeth
much discoloured, apparently from the use of the betel-nut. From
them some fish and cocoa-nuts were procured; They were seen to be
in possession of iron utensils, and appeared to have before had commu-
nication with vessels.

Mr. Knox now steered for the Straits of Bernadino, and made
Cape Espiritu Santo, on the night of the 4th of January. Owing

to the want of observations for two days before, he was in danger of
being shipwrecked. On the 11th, he had passed through the straits,
and anchored under Cape St. Jago, whence he got under way, and
reached Manilla, as before stated.

I now felt myself secure against farther detention, and hoped to
expedite my duties, so as to reach Singapore in the time designated in

my instructions.

MAXILLA BANCA.

CHAPTEK VIII.

CONTENTS.

AKRIVAL AT MANILLA— VISIT FROM THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT — VIEW OF THE
CITY— LANDING AT iMANlLLA— ANCHORAGE— PORT OF CAVITE-CITY AND ITO BUILD-
ING9 — ITS POPULATION — KIND RECEPTION BV THE AMERICAN CONSUL— WANT OF
FACILITIES FOR REPAIRS — CITY GOVERNMENT — DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION OF
THE PHILIPPINES— POLICY OF THE CONaUERORS — GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE
ISLANDS-PRODUCTIONS AND AGRICULTURE— AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS— USE OP

i

THE BUFFALO— CULTURE OP RICE — MANILLA HEMP — COFFEE — SUGAR — COTTON —
MODE OF TAKING PRODUCE TO MARKET — PROFITS OF AGRICULTURE — LABOUR —

RAVAGES OF LOCUSTS— INHABITANTS— NATIVE TRIBES— POLICY OF THE GOVERN-
MENT— CAPABILITIES FOR COMMERCE— MILITARY FORCE-INTERNAL DISTURBANCES
—VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR - TENURE AND EMOLUMENTS OF HIS OFFICE— VISITS
TO GOVERNMENT OFFICERS — CAPTAINS SALOMON AND HALCON — ROYAL CIGAR
MANUFACTORY — MANUFACTURES - PIN A - DANCING MASTER AND PUPIL - OCCUPA-
TIONS OF THE HIGHER CLASSES— MARRIAGES— DRIVE ON THE PRADO — THEATRE —
TERTULIA — DRESS OF THE NATIVES — COCK FIGHTING— MARKET- FISHING-BOATS—
BANCA-TRADE OF MANILLA— ENVIRONS OF THE CITY-CAMPO SANTO— BELLS AND
BELFRIES-CONVENT— TAGALA TRIBE— TAGALA GRAMMAR — REVENUE OF THE PHI-
LIPPINES-SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT— EXPEDITION TO THE INTERIOR— SANTA ANNA
-PATIVAS- FISHERIES ON THE RIVER AND LAKE-LAGUNA DE BAY- JALUJ ALU-
SANTA CRUZ— MISSION OF MAGJAIJAI— ASCENT OF MOUNT MAGJAIJAI— RETURN TO
THE MISSION— INSTANCE OF ECCLESIASTICAL DISCIPLINE — BAIA — HOT SPRINGS OF
BASoS— ASCENT OF MOUNT MAaUILING— LAKE DE TAAL — BAN03 — MULTITUDE OP
BIRDS-SCENERY ON THE PASIG-RETURN TO MANILLA — PREPARATIONS FOR SAIL-
ING-DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA.

(273)

t

4

i^.^

I

;

CHAPTER VIII

MANILLA.

1842.

At daylight, on the 13th of January, we were again under way, with
a light air, and at nine o'clock reached the roadstead, where we
anchored in six fathoms water, with good holding-ground. Being
anxious to obtain our letters, which, we were informed at Oahu, had
been sent to Manilla, I immediately despatched two boats to procure
them. On their way to the mole, they were stopped by the captain of
the port, Don Juan Salomon, who requested them, in a polite manner, to
return, and informed the officers that, agreeably to the rules of the port,
no boat was permitted to land until the visit of the health-officer had
been made, &c.

The captain of the port, in a large barge, was soon seen pulling off
in company with the boats. He boarded us with much ceremony, and

F

a few moments sufficed to satisfy him of the good health of the crew.

when he readily gave his assent to our visiting the shore. Every kind

of assistance was offered me, on the part of the government, and he, in
the most obliging manner, gave us permission to go and come when we
pleased, with the simple request that the boats should wear our national
flag, that they might at all times be known, and thus be free from any
interruption by the guards. The boats were again despatched for the
consul and htters, and after being anxiously watched for, returned ;
every one on board ship expecting his wishes to be gratified with news
from home ; but, as is usual on such occasions, the number of the happy
few bore no comparison to that of the many who were disappointed.

Our vice-consul, Josiah Moore, Esq., soon paid us a visit, and gave
us a pressing invitation to take up our quarters on shore while we
remained. To this gentleman and Mr. Sturges T am greatly indebted

(975)

276 MANILLA.

for much of the information that will be detailed in the following*
chapter.

A number of vessels were lying in the roads, among which were
several Americans loading with hemp. There was also a large English
East Tndiaman, manned by Lascars, whose noise rendered her more
like a floating Bedlam than any thing else to which I can liken it.

The view of the city and country around Manilla partakes both of
a Spanish and an Oriental character. The sombre and heavy-looking
churches, with their awkward towers; the long lines of batteries
mounted with heavy cannon ; the massive houses, with ranges of

balconies; and the light and airy cottage, elevated on posts, situated
in the luxuriant groves of tropical trees, — all excite a desire to become
better acquainted with the country.

Manilla is situated on an extensive plain, gradually swelling into
distant hills, beyond which, again, mountains rise in the background,
to the height of several thousand feet. The latter are apparently
clothed with vegetation to their summits. The city is in strong con-
trast to this luxuriant scenery, bearing evident marks of decay, particu-
larly in the churches, whose steeples and tile roofs have a dilapidated
look. The site of the city does not appear to have been well chosen,
it having apparently been selected entirely for the convenience of com-
merce, and the communication that the outlet of the lake affords for
the batteaux that transport the produce from the shores of the Laguna
de Bay to the city.

There are many arms or branches to this stream, which have been
converted into canals ; and almost any part of Manilla may now be

reached in a banca. •

In the afternoon, in company with Captain Hudson, I paid my first
visit to Manilla. The anchorage considered safest for large ships is
nearly three miles from the shore, but smaller vessels may lie much
nearer, and even enter the canal; a facility of which a number of these
take advantage, to accomplish any repairs they may have occasion to

m ak e.

The canal, however, is generally filled with coasting vessels, batteaux
from the lake, and lighters for the discharge of the vessels lying in the
roads. The bay of Manilla is safe, excepting during the change of the
monsoons, when it is subject to the typhoons of the China Seas, within
whose range it lies. These blow at times with much force, and cause
great damage. Foreign vessels have, however, kept this anchorage,
and rode out these storms in safety; but native as well as Spanish
vessels, seek at these times the port of Cavite, about three leagues to
the southwest, at the entrance of the bay, which is perfectly secure.

1

f

MANILLA. 277

Here the government dockj^ard is situated, and this harbour is conse-
quently the resort of the few gunboats and galleys that are stationed
here.

The entrance to the canal or river Pasig is three hundred feet wide,
and is enclosed between two well-constructed piers, which extend for
some distance into the bay. On the end of one of these is the light-
house, and on the other a guard-house. The walls of these piers are
I about four feet above ordinary high water, and include the natural

i channel of the river, whose current sets out with some force, particu-

f larlv wdien the ebb is making in the bav.

I

)

The suburbs, or Binondo quarter, contain more inhabitants than the
city itself, and is the commercial town. They have all the stir and
life incident to a large population actively engaged in trade, and in
this respect the contrast with the city proper is great.

The city of Manilla is built in the form of a large segment of a
circle, having the chord of the segment on the river: the w^hole is
strongly fortified, with walls and ditches. The houses are substan-
tially built after the fashion of the mother country. Within the walls
are the governor's palace, custom-house, treasury, admiralty, several
churches, convents, and charitable institutions, a university, and the
barracks for the troops ; it also contains some public squares, on one
of w^hich is a bronze statue of Charles IV.

The city is properly deemed the court residence of these islands;
and all those attached to the government, or who wish to be con-
sidered as of the higher circle, reside here; but foreigners are not
permitted to do so. The houses in the city are generally of stone,
plastered, and white or yellow washed on the outside. They are only
two stories high, and in consequence cover a large space, being built
around a patio or courtyard.

The ground-floors are occupied as storehouses, stables, and for
porters' lodges. The second story is devoted to the dining-halls and
I sleeping apartments, kitchens, bath-rooms, &c. The bed-rooms have

the windows down to the floor, opening on wide balconies, with blinds
or shutters. These blinds are constructed with sliding frames, having
small squares of tw'o inches filled in with a thin semi-transparent shell,
a species of Placuna ; the fronts of some of the houses have a large
number of these small lights, where the females of the family may
enjoy themselves unperceived.

After entering the canal, we very soon found ourselves among a
motley and strange population- On landing, the attention is drawn
to the vast number of small stalls and shops with w^hich the streets
are lined on each side, and to the crowds of people passing to and frc^

Y

(

278 MANILLA.

all intent upon their several occupations- The artisans In Manilla
are almost wholly Chinese ; and all trades are local, so that in each
quarter of the Binondo suburb the privilege of exclusive occupancy
is claimed by some particular kinds of shops. In passing up the
Escolta (which is the longest and main street in this district), the
cabinet-makers, seen busily at work in their shops, are first met
with; next to these come the tinkers and blacksmiths; then the shoe-
makers, clothiers, fishmongers, haberdashers, &c. These are flanked
by outdoor occupations; and in each quarter are numerous cooks,
frying cakes, stewing, &c., in movable kitchens ; while here and there
are to be seen betel-nut sellers, either moving about to obtain cus-
tomers, or taking a stand in some great thoroughfare. The moving
throng, composed of carriers, waiters, messengers, &c., pass quietly
and without any noise : they are generally seen with the Chinese um-
brella, painted of many colours, screening themselves from the sun.
The whole pojpulation wear slippers, and move along with a slip-
shod gait.

The Chinese are apparently far more numerous than the Malays,
and the two races differ as much in character as in appearance: one
is all activity, while the other is disposed to avoid all exertion. They
preserve their distinctive character throughout, mixing but very little
w^ith each other, and are removed as far as possible in their civilities ;
the former, from their industry and perseverance, have almost mono-
polized all the lucrative employments among the lower orders, except-
ing the selling of fish and betel-nut, and articles manufactured in the
provinces.

On shore, we were kindly receiv^ed by Mr. Moore, who at once
made us feel at home. The change of feeling that takes place in a
transfer from shipboard in a hot climate, after a long cruise, to spa
cious and airy apartments, surrounded by every luxury that kind
attentions can give, can be scarcely imagined by those who have not
experienced it.

As we needed some repairs and supplies, to attend to these was my
first occupation. Among the former, we required a heavy piece of
blacksmith-work, to prepare which, we were obliged to send our
armourers on shore. The only thing they could procure was a place
for a forge; but coal, and every thing else, we had to supply from
the ship. I mention these things to show that those in want of repairs
must not calculate upon their being done at Manilla with despatch, if
they can be accomplished at all.

The city government of Manilla was established on the 24th of
June, 1571, and the title under which it is designated is, "The cele-

[

MANILLA. 279

brated and for ever royal city of Manilla/' In 1595, the charter ^vas
confirmed by royal authority; and all the perogatives possessed by
other cities in the kingdom were conferred upon it in 1G38. The
members of the city council, by authority of the king, were constituted
a council of advisement with the governor and captain-general. The
city magistrates wxre also placed in rank next the judges; and in
1686 the jurisdiction of the city was extended over a radius of five
leagues. In 1818, the members of the council were increased and
ordered to assume the title of *' Excellency." Manilla has been one
of the most constantly loyal cities of the Spanish kingdom, and is, in
consequence, considered to merit these additional royal favours to its
inhabitants.

In 1834, the Royal Tribunal of Commerce was instituted, to super-
sede the old consulate, which had been established since 1772. The
Royal Tribunal of Commerce acts under the new commercial code,

[ and possesses the same privileges of arbitration as the old consulate-

It consists of a prior, two consuls, and four deputies, elected by the
profession. The three first exercise consular jurisdiction, the other
four superintend the encouragement of commerce- The " Junta de

^ Comercio" (chamber of commerce) was formed in 1835. This

junta consists of the tribunal of Commerce, with four merchants, who
are selected by the government, two of whom are removed annually.
The prior of the Tribunal presides at the Junta, whose meetings are
required to be held twice a month, or oftener if necessary, and upon
days in which the Tribunal is not in session. The two courts being
under the same influences, and having the same officers, little benefit
is to be derived from their double action, and great complaints are
made of the manner in which business is conducted in them.

Of all her foreign possessions, the Philippines have cost Spain the
least blood and labour. The honour of their discovery belongs to
Magelhaens, whose name is associated with the straits at the southern
extremity of the American continent, but which has no memorial in
these islands. Now that the glory which he gained by being the first
to penetrate from the Atlantic to the Pacific, has been in some measure

* obHterated by the disuse of those straits by navigators, it would seem

due to his memory that some spot among these islands should be set
apart to commemorate the name of him who made them known to

J Europe. This would be but common justice to the discoverer of a

region which has been a source of so much honour and profit to the
Spanish nation, who opened the vast expanse of the Pacific to the
fleets of Europe, and who died fighting to secure the benefits of his
enterprise to his king and country.

2S0 MANILLA.

Magelhaens was killed at the island of Matan, on the 26th of April,
1521; and Duarte, the second in command, who succeeded him, im-
prudently accepting an invitation from the chief of Febri to a feast,
was, with twenty companions, massacred. Of all the Spaniards pre-
sent, only one escaped- After these and various other misfortunes,
only one vessel of the squadron, the Victoria, returned to Spain. Don
Juan Sebastian del Cano, her commander, was complimented by his
sovereign by a grant for his arms of a globe, with the proud inscrip-
tion, commemorative of his being the first circumnavigator,

" PRIMUS ME CIRCUMCEDIT."

Two years aftervi^ards, a second expedition was fitted out, under
the command of Loaisa, who died after they had passed through the

Straits of Magelhaens, when they had been a year on their voyage.

The command then fell upon Sebastian, who died in four days after
his predecessor. Salayar succeeded to the command, and reached

the Ladronc Islands, but shortly after leaving there he died also.
They came in sight of Mindanao, but contrary winds obliged them
to go to the Moluccas. When arrived at the Portuguese settlements,
contentions and jealousies arose, and finally all the expedition was
dispersed, and the fate of all but one of the vessels has become doubt-
ful. None but the small tender returned, which, after encountering

great difficulties, reached New Spain.

The third expedition was fitted out by Cortes, then viceroy of
Mexico, and the command of it given to Sarvedra. This sailed from
the port of Silguattanjo, on the 31st of October, 1528, and stopped at
the Ladrone Islands, of which it took possession for the crown of
Spain. It afterw^ards went to Mindanao, and then pursued its voyage
to Timor, where part of the expedition of Loaisa w\as found remaining.
From Timor they made two attempts to return to New Spain, both
of which failed. The climate soon brought on disease, w^hich carried
off a great number, and among them Sarvedra- Thus the whole
expedition was broken up, and the survivors found their way to the
Portuguese settlements.

The fourth expedition was sent from New Spain, when under the
government of Don Antonio de Mendoza, for the purpose of establishing
a trade with the new islands, and it received orders not to visit the
Moluccas. This expedition sailed in 1542, under the command of
Villalobos. It reached the Philippine Islands without accident, and
Villalobos gave them that name after Philip II., then prince of Asturias.
Notwithstanding his positive instructions to the contrary, he was
obliged to visit the Moluccas, and met the same treatment from the

MANILLA. 281

1 Portuguese that had been given to all whom they believed had any

I intention to interfere in their spice trade. The squadron touched at

Amboina, where Villalobos died, an event which caused the breakinir
up of the expedition; and the few Spaniards that remained embarked in
the Portuguese vessels to return home.

The fifth and last expedition was ordered by Philip IL to be sent
from Mexico, when under the government of Don Luis de Velasco, for
the final conquest and settlement of the Philippines. With this cxpe-
dition was sent Andres Urdaneta, a friar, whose reputation stood very
high as a cosmographer : he had belonged to the ill-fated expedition of
Loaisa. This was the largest that had yet been fitted out for this pur-
pose, numbering five vessels and about four hundred men. The com-
mand of it was intrusted to Segaspi, under whom it sailed from the port
of Natividad, on the 21st of November, 1564, and upon whom was
conferred the title of governor and adelantado of the conquered lands,
with the fullest powers. On the 13th of February, 1565, he arrived at
the island of Tandaya, one of the Philippines : from thence he went to
Leyte ; there he obtained the son of a powerful chief as a guide,
through whom he established peace with several of the native rulers,
? who thereafter aided the expedition with all the means in their power.

At Bohol they built the first church. There he met and made peace
with a chief of Luzon, with whom he went to that island.

He now (April 1565) took possession of all the island in the name
of the crown of Spain, and became their first governor. In this con-
quest, motives different from those which governed them on the
American continent, seemed to have influenced the Spaniards. Instead
of carrying on a cruel war against the natives, they here pursued the
policy of encouraging and fostering their industry. Whether they felt
that this policy was necessary for the success of their undertaking, or
were influenced by the religious fathers who were with them, is

r m

uncertain ; but their measures seem to have been dictated by a desire
J to promote peace and secure the welfare of the inhabitants. There

may be another cause for this course of action, namely, the absence of

the precious metals, which held out no inducement to those thirsting

for inordinate gain. This may have had its weight in exempting the

^ expedition in its outfit from the presence of those avaricious spirits

which had accompanied other Spanish expeditions, and been the means
of marking their progress with excessive tyranny, bloodshed, and
violence. It is evident to one who visits the Philippines that some other
power besides the sword has been at work in them ; the natives arc
amalgamated with the Spaniards, and all seem disposed to cultivate
the land and foster civilization. None of the feeling that grows out of

VOL. V. Y2 36

282 MANILLA.

conquest is to be observed in these islands; the two races are identified
now in habits, manners, and religion, and their interests are so closely
allied that they feel their mutual dependence upon each other.

The establishment of the new constitution in Spain in the year 1825,
has had a wonderful effect upon these colonies, whose resources have
within the last ten years been developed, and improvements pushed
forward with a rapid step. Greater knowledge and more liberal views
in the rulers are alone wanting to cause a still more rapid advance in
the career of prosperity.

As our visit was to Luzon, we naturally obtained more personal
information respecting it than the other islands. We learned that the
northern peninsula* was composed of granite and recent volcanic
rocks, together with secondary and tertiary deposits, while the southern
peninsula is almost \Yholly volcanic.

The northern contains many valuable mines of gold, lead, copper,

and iron, besides coal. A number of specimens of these, and the rocks

which contain them, were presented to the Expedition by Seilors

Araria and Roxas of Manilla. These will claim particular attention in

the Geological Report, to which the reader is referred for information.

So far as our information and observations went, the whole of the

Philippine Islands are of similar geological formation. In some of

the islands the volcanic rock prevails, while in others coal and the

metalliferous deposits predominate. On some of them the coal-beds

form part of the cliffs along the shore; on others, copper is found

in a chlorite and talcose slate. The latter is more particularly the

case with Luzon, and the same formation extends to Mindoro. Much

iron occurs on the mountains. Thus, amon^ the Ta^i^ala natives,

who are yet unsubdued by the Spaniards, and who inhabit these
mountains, it is found by them of so pure a quality that it is manu-
factured into swords and cleavers. These are, occasionally, obtained.
by the Spaniards in their excursions into the interior against these
bands.

The country around Manilla is composed of tufa of a light gray
colour, which being soft and easily worked, is employed as the
common building material in the city. It contains, sometimes, scoria
and pumice, in pieces of various sizes, besides, occasionally, impres-
sions of plants, with petrified woods. There are confined to recent

species, and include palms, &c.

This tufa forms one of the remarkable features of the volcanoes of

It is called so in consequence of the island being nearly divided in the parallel of 14*^ N.,

by two bays.

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MANILLA. 283

the Philippine Islands, showing a strong contrast between them and

those of the Pacific isles, w^hich have ejected little else than lava and

scoria.

Few portions of the globe seem to be so much the seat of internal
fires, or to exhibit the effects of volcanic action so strongly as the
PhiHppines. During our visit, it was not know^n that any of the
volcanoes were in action; but many of them were smoking, parti-
cularly that in the district of Albay, called Isaroc. Its latest eruption
was in the year 1839; but this did little damage compared with that
of 1814, which covered several villages, and the country for a great
distance around, \tith ashes. This mountain is situated to the southeast
of Manilla one hundred and fifty miles, and is said to be a perfect cone,
\vith a crater at its apex.

It does not appear that the islands are much affected by earthquakes,
although some have occasionally occurred that have done damage to
the churches at Manilla.

The coal which w^e have spoken of is deemed of value; it has a
strong resemblance to the bituminous coal of our owm country, pos-
sesses a bright lustre, and appears very free from all woody texture
^ w^hen fractured. It is found associated with sandstone, which contains

many fossils- Lead and copper are reported as being very abundant;
gypsum and limestone occur in some districts. From this, it will be
seen that these islands have every thing in the mineral way to consti-
tute them desirable possessions.

With such mineral resources, and a soil capable of producing the
most varied vegetation of the tropics, a liberal policy is all that the
country lacks. The products of the Philippine Islands consist of sugar,
coffee, hemp, indigo, rice, tortoise-shell, hides, ebony, saffron-wood,
sulphur, cotton, cordage, silk, pepper, cocoa, wax, and many other
articles. In their agricultural operations the people are industrious,
although much labour is lost by the use of defective implements. The

plough, of very simple construction, has been adopted from the Chi-
nese; it has no coulter, the share is flat, and being turned partly to one
side, answers, in a certain degree, the purpose of a mould-board. This
rude implenient is sufficient for the rich soils, where the tillage depend
chiefly upon the harrow% in constructing which a thorny species of
bamboo is used. The harrow is formed of five or six pieces of this
material, on which the thorns are left, firmly fastened together. It
answers its purpose well, and is seldom out q? order. A wrought-iron
harrow, that w^as introduced by the Jesuits, is used for clearing the
ground more effectually, and more particularly for the purpose of ex-
tirpating a troublesome grass, that is known by the name of cogon (a

284 MANILLA.

species of Andropogon), of which it is very difficult to rid. the fields.
The bolo or long-knife, a basket, and hoe, complete the list of imple-
ments, and answer all the purposes of our spades, &c.

The buffalo w^as used until within a few years exclusively in their
agricultural operations, and they have lately taken to the use of the
ox ; but horses are never used. The buffalo, from the slowness of his
motions, and his exceeding restlessness under the heat of the cHmate,
is ill adapted to agricultural labour; but the natives are very partial to
them, notwithstanding they occasion them much labour and trouble in
bathing them during the great heat. This is absolutely necessary, or
the animal becomes so fretful as to be unfit for us6. If it were not
for this, the buffalo would, notwithstanding his slow pace, be most
effective in agricultural operations; he requires little food, and that of
the coarsest kind ; his strength surpasses that of the stoutest ox, and
he is admirably adapted for the rice or paddy fields. They are very
docile when used by the natives, and even children can manage them ;
but it is said they have a great antipathy to the whites, and all
strangers. The usual mode of guiding them is by a small cord at-
tached to the cartilage of the nose. The yoke rests on the neck before
the shoulders, and is of simple construction. To this is attached what-
ever it may be necessary to draw, either by traces, shafts, or other
fastenings. Frequently this animal may be seen with large bundles of
bamboo lashed to them on each side. Buffaloes are to be met with on
the lake w ith no more than their noses and eyes out of the water, and
are not visible until they are approached within a few feet, when they
cause alarm to the passengers by raising their large forms close to the
boat. It is said that they resort to the lake to feed on a favourite grass
that grows on its bottom in shallow water, and which they dive for.
Their flesh is not eaten, except that of the young ones, for it is tough
and tasteless. The milk is nutritious, and of a character between that
of the goat and cow.

The general appearance of the buffalo is that of a hybrid of the bull
and rhinoceros. Its horns do not rise upw^ards, are very close at the
root, bent backwards, and of a triangular form, with a flat side above.
One of the peculiarities of the buffalo is its voice, which is quite low,
and in the minor key, resembling that of a young colt. It is as fond
of mire as sv/ine, and show^s the consequence of recent wallowing, in
bein<^ crusted over with mud. The skin is visible, being but thinly
covered with hair; its colour is usually that of a mouse; in some

individuals darken

Rice is, perhaps, of their agricultural products, the article upon

which the inhabitants of the Philippine Islands most depend for food

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MANILLA. 285

and profit; of this they have several different varieties, which the
natives distinguish by their size and the shape of the grain: the
birnambang, lamuyo, malagequit^ bontot-cabayo, dun^ali, quinanda,
bolohan, and tangi. The three first are aquatic ; the five latter upland
varieties. They each have their peculiar uses. The dumali is the
early variety ; it ripens in three months from planting, from which
circumstance it derives its name: it is raised exclusively on the up-
lands. Although much esteemed, it is not extensively cultivated, as
the birds and insects destroy a large part of the crop.

The malagequit is very much prized, and used for making sweet
and fancy dishes; it becomes exceedingly glutinous, for which reason
it is used in making w^hitevvash, which it is said to cause to become
of a brilliant white, and to withstand the w^eather. This variety is
not, however, believed to be wholesome. There is also a variety of
this last species which is used as food for horses, and supposed to be a
remedy and preventive against worms*

The rice grounds or fields are laid out in squares, and surrounded
by embankments, to retain the w^ater of the rains or streams* After
the rains have fallen in sufficient quantities to saturate the ground,
a seed-bed is generally planted in one corner of the field, in which the
rice is sown broadcast, about the month of June. The heavy rains
take place in August, when the fields are ploughed, and are soon filled

with vvaten The young plants are about this time taken from the
seed-bed, their tops and roots trimmed, and then planted in the field
by malung holes in the ground with the fingers and placing four or
five sprouts in each of them; in this tedious labour the poor women
are employed, w^hilst the males are lounging in their houses or in the

shade of the trees.

The harvest for the aquatic rice begins in December. It is reaped
with small sickles, peculiar to the country, called yatap ; to the back
of these a small stick is fastened, by w^hich they are held, and the
stalk is forced upon it and cut. The spikes of rice are cut with this
implement, one by one. In this operation, men, women, and children

all take part.

The upland rice requires much more care and labour in its cultiva-
tion* The land must be ploughed three or four times, and all the turf
and lumps well broken up by the harrow-

During its growth it requires to be weeded two or three times, to
keep the weeds from choking the crop. The seed is sown broadcast
in May, This kind of rice is harvested in November, and to collect
the crop is still more tedious than in the other case, for it is always
gathered earlier, and never reaped, in consequence of the grain not

286 MANILLA.

adhering to the ear. If it were gathered in any other way, the loss
by transportation on the backs of buffaloes and horses, without any
covering to the sheaf, would be so great as to dissipate a great portion
of the crop-
It appears almost incredible that any people can remain in igno-
rance of a way of preventing so extravagant and wasteful a mode
of harvesting. The government has been requested to prohibit it on
account of the great expense it gives rise to; but whether any steps
have ever been taken in the matter, I did not learn- It is said that
not unfrequently a third part of the crop is lost, in consequence of the
scarcity of labourers ; while those who are disengaged will refuse to
work, unless they receive one-third, and even one-half of the crop, to
be delivered free of expense at their houses. This the planters are
often obliged to give, or lose the whole crop. Nay, unless the harvest
is a good one, reapers are very unwilling to engage to take it even on
these terms, and the entire crop is lost. The labourers, during the
time of harvest, are supported by the planter, who is during that time
exposed to great vexation, if not losses. The reapers are for the most
part composed of the idle and vicious part of the population, who go
abroad over the country to engage themselves in this employment,
which affords a livelihood to the poorer classes; for the different
periods at which the varieties of rice are planted and harvested, gives
them work during a large portion of the year-
After the rice is harvested, there are different modes of treating it. %
Some of the proprietors take it home, where it is thrown into heaps,
and left until it is desirable to separate it from the straw, when it is
trodden out by men and women with their bare feet. For this opera-
tion, they usually receive another fifth of the rice.

Others stack it in a wet and green state, which subjects it to heat,
from which cause the grain contracts a dark colour, and an unplea-
sant taste and smell. The natives, however, impute these defects to
the wetness of the season.

The crop of both the low and upland rice, is usually from thirty to
fifty for one : this is on old land ; but on that which is newly cleared,
or which has never been cultivated, the yield is far beyond this. In
some soils of the latter description, it is said that for a chupa (seven
cubic inches) planted, the yield has been a caban. The former is the
two-hundred-and-eighth part of the latter. This is not the only advan-
tage gained in planting rich lands, but the saving of labour is equally
<Treat ; for all that is required is to make a hole with the fingers, and .
place three or four grains in it. The upland rice requires but little
water, and is never irrigated.

31 A N I L L A.

287

h.

The cultivator in the Philippine Islands is always enabled to secure
plenty of manure; for vegetation is so luxuriant that by pulling the
weeds and laying them with earth, a good stock is quickly obtained
with which to cover his fields* Thus, although the growth is so rank
as to cause him labour, yet in this hot climate its decay is equally
rapid, which tends to make his labours more successful.

The rice-stacks form a picturesque object on the field; they are
generally placed around or near a growth of bamboo, whose tall,
graceful, and feathery outline is of itself a beautiful object, but con*
nected as it is often seen with the returns of the harvest, it furnishes
an additional source of gratification.

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STACEIH^G RICE

X

The different kinds of rice, and especially the upland, would no
doubt be an acquisition to our country. At the time we were at
Manilla, it was not thought feasible to pack it, for it had just been
reaped, and was so green that it would not have kept* Although

* Since my return home, at the desire of that distin^ishcd agriculturist, Colonel Austin,
of South Carolina, I have sent for some samples of the different kinds, and under his care
it will no doubt be well treated.

288 MANILLA.

rice is a very prolific crop, yet it is subject to many casualties, from
the locusts and other insects that devour it; the drought at other
times affects it, particularly the aquatic varieties. There is a use to
which the rice is applied here, which was new to us, namely, as a
substitute for razors ; by using two grains of it between the fingers,
they nip the beard, or extract it from the chin and face.

Among the important productions of these islands, I have mentioned
hemp, although the article called Manilla hemp must not be understood
to be derived from the plant which produces the common hemp (Can-
nabis), being obtained from a species of plantain (Musa textilis), called
in the Philippines " abaca." This is a native of these islands, and
w^as formerly believed to be found only on Mindanao; but this is not
the case, for it is cultivated on the south part of Luzon, and all the
islands south of it It grows on high ground, in rich soil, and is propa-
gated by seeds. It resembles the other plants of the tribe of plantains,
but its fruit is much smaller, although edible. The fibre is derived from
the stem, and the plant attains the height of fifteen or twenty feet. The
usual mode of preparing the hemp is to cut off the stem near the ground,
before the time or just when the fruit is ripe. The stem is then eight or
ten feet long below the leaves, where it is again cut. The outer coating
of the herbaceous stem is then stripped off, until the fibres or cellular
parts are seen, when it undergoes the process of rotting, and after being
well dried in houses and sheds, is prepared for market by assorting it,
a task which is performed by the women and children. That which
is intended for cloth is soaked for an hour or two in weak lime-water
prepared from sea-shells, again dried, and put up in bundles. From all
the districts in w'hich it grows, it is sent to Manilla, w^hich is the only
port whence it can legally be exported. It arrives in large bundles,
and is packed there, by means of a screw-press, in compact bales, for
shipping, secured by rattan, each weighing two piculs.

The best Manilla hemp ought to be white, dry, and of a long and fine
fibre. This is known at Manilla by the name of lupis ; the second quality

they call bandala*

The exportation has much increased within the last few years, in

consequence of the demand for it in the United States; and the whole
crop is now monopolized by the two American houses of Sturges
& Co., and T. K Pcale & Co., of Manilla, who buy all of good quality
that comes to market This is divided between the two houses, and the
price they pay is from four to five dollars the picuL The entire quantity
raised in 1840 was eighty-three thousand seven hundred and ninety
piculs ; in 1841, eighty-seven thousand.

The quantity exported to the United States in 1840, was sixty-eight

MANILLA. , 289

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thousand two hundred and eighty piculs, and in 1841, only sixty-lvvo
thousand seven hundred piculs ; its value in Manilla is about three
hundred . thousand dollars. Twenty thousand piculs go to Europe.
There are no duties on its exportation.

That which is brought to the United States is principally manufac-
tured in or near Boston, and is the cordage known as "white rope.
The cordage nnanufactured at Manilla is, however, very superior to
the rope made with us, although the hemp is of the inferior kind. A
large quantity is also manufactured into mats.

In the opinion of our botanist, it is not probable that the plant could
be introduced w4th success into our country, for in the Philippines it is
4 not found north of latitude 14° N.

The coffee-plant is well adapted to these islands. A few plants were
introduced into the gardens of Manilla, about fifty years ago, since
which time it has been spread all over the island, as is supposed by the
civet-cats, which, after swefllowing the seeds, carry them to a distance
before they are voided.

The coffee of commerce is obtained here from the wnld plant, and is
of an excellent quality. Upwards of three thousand five hundred piculs
are now exported, of which one-sixth goes to the United States.

The sugar-cane thrives well here. It is planted after the French
fashion, by sticking the piece diagonally into the ground. Some, finding
the cane has sufiered in times of drought, have adopted other modes. It »

comes to perfection in a year, and they seldom have two crops from the
same piece of land, unless the season is very favourable.

There are many kinds of cane cultivated, but that grown in the
valley of Pampanga is thought to be the best. It is a small red variety,
from four to five feet high, and not thicker than the thumb. The manu-
facture of the suo;ar is rudely conducted ; and the w^iole business, I was
told, w^as in the hands of a few capitalists, w^ho, by making advances,
secure the whole crop from, those who are employed to bring it to
market. It is generally brought in moulds, of the usual conical shape,
called pilones, w^hich are delivered to the purchaser from November to
June, and contain each about one hundred and fifty pounds. On their
receipt, they are placed in large storehouses, where the familiar opera-
tion of claying is performed. The estimate for the quantity of sugar
from these pilones after this process is about one hundred pounds ; it
depends upon the care taken in the process.

Of cotton they raise a considerable quantity, which is of a fine
quality, and principally of the yellow nankeen. In the province of

Ylocos it is cultivated most extensively. The mode of cleaning it of

its seed is very rude, by means of a hand-mill, and the expense of

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VOL. V.

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290 , MANILLA.

cleaning a picul (one hundred and forty pounds) is from five to seven
dollars. There have, as far as I have understood, been no endeavours
to introduce any cotton-gins from our country.

It will be merely necessary to give the prices at which labourers
are paid, to show how low the compensation is, in comparison with
those in our own country. In the vicinity of Manilla, twelve and a
half cents per day is the usual wages; this in the provinces falls to
SIX and nme cents. A man with two buffaloes is paid about thirty
cents. The amount of labour performed by the latter in a day would
be the ploughing of a soane, about two-tenths of an acre. The most
profitable way of employing labourers is by the task, when, it is said,
the natives work well, and are industrious.

The manner in which the sugar and other produce is brought to
market at Manilla is peculiar, and deserves to be mentioned. In some
of the villages, the chief men unite to build a vessel, generally a
pirogue, in which they embark their prodtfce, under the conduct of a
few persons, who go to navigate it, and dispose of the cargo. In due
time they make their voyage, and when the accounts are settled, the
returns are distributed to each according to his share. Festivities are
then held, the saints thanked for their kindness, and blessings invoked for
another year. After this is over, the vessel is taken carefully to pieces,
and distributed among the owners, to be preserved for the next season.
The profits in the crops, according to estimates, vary from sixty to
one hundred per cent.; but it was thought, as a general average, that
this was, notwithstanding the great productiveness of the soil, far be-
yond the usual profits accruing from agricultural operations. In some
provinces this estimate would hold good, and probably be exceeded.

Indigo would probably be a lucrative crop, for that raised here is
said to be of a quality equal to the best, and the crop is not subject to
so many uncertainties as in India : the capital and attention required
in vats, &c,, prevent it from being raised in any quantities. Among
the productions, the bamboo and rattan ought to claim a particular
notice from their great utility; they enter into almost every thing.
Of the former their houses are built, including frames, floors, sides,
and roof; fences are made of the same material, as well as every
article of general household use, including baskets for oil and water.
The rattan is a general substitute for ropes of all descriptions, and the
two combined are used in constructing rafts for crossing ferries.

I have thus given a general outline of the capabilities of this country
for agricultural operations, in some of the most important articles of
commerce ; by which it will be seen that the Philippine Islands are
one of the most favoured parts of the globe.

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MANILLA. 291

The crops frequently suffer from the ravages of the locusts, which
sweep all before them. Fortunately for the poorer classes, their
attacks take place after the rice has been harvested; but the cane is
sometimes entirely cut off The authorities of Manilla, in the vain
hope of stopping their devastations, employ persons to gather them
and throw them into the sea. I understood on one occasion they had
spent eighty thousand dollars in this way, but all to little purpose.
It is said that the crops rarely suffer from droughts, but on the con-
trary the rains are thought to fall too often, and to flood the rice
fields; these, however, yield a novel crop, and are very advantageous
to the poor, viz.: a great quantity of fish, which are called dalag,
and are a species of Blunnius; they are so plentiful, that they are
caught with baskets: these fish weigh from a half to two pounds,
and some are said to be eighteen inches long: but this is not all;

they are said, after a deep inundation, to be found even in the vaults
* of churches.

The Philippines are divided into thirty-one provinces, sixteen of
I which are on the island of Luzon, and the remainder comprise the

other islands of the group and the Ladrones.

The population of the w^hole group is above three millions, including
all tribes of natives, mestizoes, and whites. The latter-named class
are but few in number, not exceeding three thousand- The mestizoes
were supposed to be about fifteen or twenty thousand; they are dis-
tinguished as Spanish and Indian mestizoes. The Chinese have of
t late years increased to a large number, and it is said that there are

forty thousand of them in and around Manilla alone. One-half of the
.whole population belongs to Luzon. The island next to it in the num-
ber of inhabitants is Panay, which contains about three hundred and
thirty thousand. Then come Zebu, Mindanoa, Leyte, Samar, and
Negros, varying from the above numbers down to fifty thousand-
The population is increasing, and it is thought that it doubles itself in

^

seventy years. This rate of increase appears probable, from a com-
parison of the present population with the estimate made at the begin-
ning of the present century, which shows a growth in the forty years
of about one million four hundred thousand.

The native population is composed of a number of distinct tribes,
the principal of w^hich in Luzon are Pangarihan, Ylocos, Cagayan,
Tagala, and Pampangan.

The Irogotes, who dwell in the mountains, are the only natives
who have not been subjected by the Spaniards. The other tribes
have become identified with their rulers in religion, and it is thought
that by this circumstance alone has Spain been able to maintain the

292

MANILLA.

ascendency with so small a number, over such a numerous, intelli-
gent, and energetic race as they are represented to be. This is, how-
ever, more easily accounted for, from the Spaniards fostering and
keeping alive the jealousy and hatred that existed at the time of the
discovery between the different tribes.

NATIVK OF T.rZOV.

It seems almost mcreclible that l^pam should have so long persisted
in the policy of allowing no more than one galleon to pass annually
between her colonies, and equally so that the nations of Europe should
have been so long deceived in regard to the riches and wealth that

Spain was monopolizing in the Philippines.

Man

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remote and little-known appendage of the empire.

The Philippines, considered in their capacity for commerce, are
certainly among the most favoured portions of the globe, and there is
but one circumstance that tends in the least decree to lessen their
apparent advantage; this is the prevalence of typhoons in the China
seas, which are occasionally felt with force to the north of latitude

10^ N.

been

and seldom so far; but from their unfailing occurrence yearly in some
part of the China seas, they are looked for with more or less dread,
and cause each season a temporary interruption in all the trade that
passes along the coast of these islands.

The army is now composed entirely of native troops, who number
about six thousand men, and the regiments are never suffered to serve

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MANILLA. 293

f

in the provinces in which they are recruited, but those from the north
are sent to the south, and vice versa. There they are employed to
keep up a continual watch on each other; and, speaking different
dialects, they never become identified.

They are, indeed, never allowed to remain long enough in one
region, to imbibe any feelings in unison with those of its inhabitants.
The hostility is so great among the regiments, that mutinies have
occurred, and contests arisen which have produced even bloodshed,
w^hich it was entirely out of the power of the officers to prevent. In
cases of this kind, summary punishment is resorted to..

Although the Spaniards, as far as is known abroad, live in peace
and quiet, this is far from being the case ; for rebellion and revolts
among the troops and tribes are not unfrequent in the provinces.
During the time of our visit one of these took place, but it was im-
possible to learn any thing concerning it that could be relied upon, for
all conversation respecting such occurrences is interdicted, by the
government. The difficulty to which I refer was said to have origi-
nated from the preaching of a fanatic pinest, who inflamed them to
such a degree that they overthrew the troops and became temporarily
masters of the country. Prompt measures w^ere immediately taken.

and orders issued to give the rebels no quarter; the regiments most

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hostile to those engaged in the revolt were ordered to the spot; they
spared no one; the priest and his companions were taken, put to
death, and according to report, in a manner so cruel as to be a dis-
grace to the records of the nineteenth century. Although I should
hope the accounts I heard of these transactions were incorrect, yet
the detestation these acts were held in, would give some colour to the
statements.

The few gazettes that are published at Manilla are entirely under
the control of the government ; and a resident of that city must make
up his mind to remain in ignorance of the things that are passing
around him, or believe just what the authorities will allow to be told,
whether truth or falsehood- The government of the Philippines is
emphatically an iron rule: how long it can continue so, is doubtful

One of my first duties was to make an official call upon his Excel-
lency Don Marcelino Oroa, who is the sixty-first governor of the
Philippine Islands. According to the established etiquette, Mr. Moore,
the vice-consul, announced our desire to do so, and requested to be
informed of the time when we w^ould be received. This was accord-
ingly named, and at the appointed hour we proceeded to the palace
in the city proper. On our arrival, we were announced and led up a
flight of steps, ample and spacious, but by no means of such splendour

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294 MANILLA.

as would indicate the residence of vice-royalty. The suite of rooms
into which we were ushered were so dark that it w^as difficult to see.
I made out, however, that they were panelled, and by no means richly
furnished- His excellency entered from a side-door, and led us through
two or three apartments into his private audience-room, an apartment
not quite so dark as those we had come from: our being conducted
to this, I was told afterwards, was to be considered an especial mark
of respect to my country. His reception of us was friendly. The
governor has much more the appearance of an Irishman than of a
Spaniard, being tall, portly, of a florid complexion. He is apparently
more than sixty years of age. He was dressed in a full suit of black,
with a star on his breast.

Mr. Moore acted as interpreter, and the governor readily acceded
to my request to be allowed to send a party into the interior for a few
days; a permission which I almost despaired of receiving, for I knew
that he had refused a like application some few months before. The
refusal, however, I think was in part owing to the character of the
applicants, and the doubtful object they had in view. I impute the
permission we received to the influence of our consul, together with
Mr. Sturges, whose agreeable manners, conciliatory tone, and high |
standing with the authorities, will, I am satisfied, insure us at all times
every reasonable advantage or facility.

The term of the governor in office is three years, and the presenf
incumbent was installed in 1841. This length of time is thought to be
sufficient for any one of them to make a fortune. The office is held
by the appointment of the ministry in Spain, and with it are connected
perquisites that are shared, it is said, by those who confer them.

After having paid our respects to his excellency, we drove to visit
several other officers of the government, who received us without cere-
mony. We generally found them in loose morning-gowns, smoking,
and cigars were invariably offered us; for this habit appears in
Manilla to extend to all ranks. Even in the public offices of the
custom-house it was the fashion, and cigars, with a machero for
striking a light, or a jost-stick kept burning, were. usually seen in every
apartment.

To the captain of the port, Don Juan Salomon, I feel under many
obligations for his attentions. I was desirous of obtaining information
relative to the Sooloo Seas, and to learn how far the Spanish surveys
had been carried. He gave me little hopes of obtaining any; but
referred me to Captain Halcon, of the Spanish Navy, who had been
employed surveying some part of the coast of the islands to the north.
The latter, whom 1 visited, on my making the inquiry of him, and

MANILLA. 295

stating the course I intended to pursue, frankly told me that all the
f existing charts were'erroneous. He only knew enough of the ground

to be certain that they were so, and consequently useless. He advised
my taking one of the native pilots, who were generally well ac-
quainted with the seas that lay more immediately in my route. The
captain of the port was afterwards kind enough to offer to procure me
one. ^

^ The intercourse I had with these gentlemen was a source of

much gratification, and it gives me great pleasure to make this public
expression of it. To both, my sincere acknowledgments are due for
information in relation to the various reefs and shoals that have been

recently discovered, and which will be found placed in their true posi-
tion on our charts.

During our stay at Manilla, our time was occupied in seeing sights,
shopping, riding, and amusing ourselves with gazing on the throng
incessantly passing through the Escolta of the Binondo suburb, or more
properly, the commercial town of Manilla.

Among the lions of the place, the great royal cigar manufactories
claim especial notice from their extent and the many persons em-
ployed. There are two of these establishments, one situated in the
^ Binondo quarter, and the other on the great square or Prado ; in

the former, which was visited by us, there are two buildings of two
stories high, besides several storehouses, enclosed by a wall, with two
large gateways, at which sentinels are always posted. The principal
workshop is in the second story, which is divided into six apartments,
in w^hich eight thousand females are employed. Throughout the
whole extent, tables are arranged, about sixteen inches high, ten feet
long, and three feet wide, at each of w^hich fifteen women are seated,
having small piles of tobacco before them. The tables are set cross-
wise from the wall, leaving a space in the middle of the room free*
The labour of a female produces about two hundred cigars a day;
and the working hours are from 6 a. m. till 6 p. m., with a recess of

^ two hours, from eleven till one o'clock. The whole establishment is

kept very neat and clean, and every thing appears to be carried on in
the most systematic and workmanlike manner. Among such numbers,
it has been found necessary to institute a search on their leaving the
establishment to prevent embezzlement, and this is regularly made
twice a day, without distinction of sex. It is a strange sight to

/ witness the ingress and egress of these hordes of females; and pro-

bably the world cannot elsewhere exhibit so large a number of ugly
women. Their ages vary from fifteen to forty-five. The sum paid
them for wages is very trifling- The whole number of persons em-

296 MANILLA.

ployed in the manufactories is about fifteen thousand ; this includes
the officers, clerks, overseers, &c»

As nearly as I could ascertain, the revenue derived from these esta-
blishments is half a million of dollars.

The natives of the Philippines are industrious. They manufacture
an amount of goods sufficent to supply their ow^n wants, particularly
from Panay and Ylocos. These for the most part consist of cotton
and silks, and a peculiar article called pina. The latter is manufactured
from a species of Bromelia (pine-apple), and comes principally from the
island of Panay. The finest kinds of pina are exceedingly beautiful,
and surpass any other material in its evenness and beauty of texture.
Its colour is yellowish, and the embroidery is fully equal to the material.
It is much sought after by all strangers, and considered as one of the
curiosities of this group. Various reports have been stated of the mode
of its manufacture, and among others that it was woven under water,
which I found, upon inquiry, to be quite erroneous. The web of the
pina is so fine, that they are obliged to prevent all currents of air from
passing through the rooms where it is manufactured, for w^hich purpose
there are gauze screens in the window^s. After the article is brought
to Manilla, it is then embroidered by girls; this last operation adds
greatly to its value. We visited one of the houses where this was in
progress, and where the most skilful workwomen are employed.

On mounting the stairs of bamboos, every step w^e took produced its
creak ; but, although the w^hole seemed but a crazy afl^air, yet it did not
want for strength, being well and firmly bound together. There were
tw^o apartments, each about thirteen by twenty-five feet, w^hich could be
divided by screens, if required. At the end of it w^ere seen about forty
females, all busily plying their needles, and so closely seated as appa-
rently to incommode each other. The mistress of the manufactory, who
was quite young, gave us a friendly reception, and showed us the whole
process of drawing the threads and working the patterns, which, in many
cases, w^ere elegant. A great variety of dresses, scarfs, caps, collars,
cuffs, and pocket-handkerchiefs, were shown us. These were mostly
in the rough state, and did not strike us with that degree of admiration
which was expected. They,how^ever, had been in hand for six months,
and were soiled by much handling ; but when others were shown us in
the finished state, washed and put up, they were such as to claim our

admiration.

I was soon attracted by a very diflferent sight at the other end of
the apartment. This was a dancing-master and his scholar, of six
years old, the daughter of the woman of the house. It was exceedingly
amusing to see the airs and graces of this child.

*

?

MANILLA. 397

For music they had a guitar; and I never witnessed a ballet that
gave me more amusement, or saw a dancer that evinced more grace,
ease, confidence, and decided talent, than did this little girl. She was
prettily formed, and was exceedingly admired and applauded by us all
Her mother considered her education as finished, and looked on with
all the admiration and fondness of parental affection.

On inquiry, I found that the idea of teaching her to read and write

had not yet been entertained. Yet every expense is incurred to teach
ihem to use their feet and arms, and to assume the expression of coun-
tenance that will enable them to play a part in the after-scenes of life.

This manufactory had work engaged for nine months or a year in

advance. The fabric is extremely expensive, and none but the wealthy

can afford it. It is also much sought after by foreigners. Even orders

• for Queen Victoria and many of the English nobility were then in

hand ; at least I so heard at Manilla. Those who are actually present
have, notwithstanding, the privilege of selecting what they wish to pur-
chase; for, with the inhabitants here, as elsewhere, ready money has
too much attraction for them to forego the temptation.

Time in Manilla seems to hang heavily on the hands of some of its
inhabitants; their amusements are few, and the climate ill adapted to
exertion. The gentlemen of the higher classes pass their morning in
the transaction of a little public business, lounging about, smoking,
&c. In the afternoon, they sleep, and ride on the Prado ; and in the
evening, visit their friends, or attend a tertulia. The ladies are to be
pitied; for they pass three-fourths of their time in dishabille, with
their maids around them, sleeping, dresshig, lolling, and combing
their hair. In this way the whole morning is lounged away: they
neither read, write, nor work. In dress they generally imitate the
Europeans, except that they seldom wear stockings, and go with
their arms bare. In the afternoon they ride on the Prado in state,
and in the evening accompany their husbands. Chocolate is taken
f early in the morning, breakfast at eleven, and dinner and supper are

included in one meal-
Moth

and I was

told that such a thing as a gentleman proposing to any one but the
mother, or a young lady engaging herself, is unknown and unheard of.
The negotiation is all carried forward by the mother, and the daughter
is given to any suitor she may deem a desirable match. The young
ladies are said to be equally disinclined to a choice themselves, and if
proposals w^ere made to them, the suitor would be at once referred to
the mother. Among the lower orders it is no uncommon thing for
the parties to be living without the ceremony of marriage, until they

VOL. V-

38

298 MANILLA.

have a family; and no odium whatever is attached to such a con-
nexion. They are looked upon as man and wife, though they do not
live together; and they rarely fail to solemnize their union when they
have accumulated sufficient property to procure the requishe articles
for housekeeping.

Three nights in each week they have music in the plaza, in front of
the governor's palace, by the bands of four different regiments, who
collect there after the evening parade. Most of the better class resort
here, for the pleasure of enjoying it. We went thither to see the
people as well as to hear the music. This is the great resort of the
haut ton, who usually have their carriages in waiting, and promenade
in groups backwards and forwards during the time the music is play-
ing. This is by far the best opportunity that one can have for view-
ing the society of Manilla, which seems as easy and unrestrained as
the peculiar gravity and ceremonious mode of intercourse among the
old Spaniards can admit. Before the present governor took office, it
had been the custom to allow the bands to play on the Prado every
fine evening, when all the inhabitants could enjoy it until a late hour;
but he has interdicted this practice, and of course given much dissatis-
faction ; he is said to have done this in a fit of ill temper, and ahhough

yn

naciously refuses.

The bands of the regiments are under the direction of Frenchmen
and Spaniards : the musicians are all natives, and play with a correct

ear.

Our afternoons were spent in drives on the Prado, where all the
fashion and rank of Manilla are to be met, and where it is exceedingly
agreeable to partake of the fresh and pure air after a heated day in
the city. The extreme end of the Prado lies along the shore of the
bay of Manilla, having the roadstead and ships on one side, and the
city proper with its fortifications and moats on the other. This drive
usually lasts for an hour, and all sorts of vehicles are shown off, from
the governor's coach and six, surrounded by his lancers, to the sorry
chaise and limping nag. The carriage most used is a four-wheeled
biloche, with a gig top, quite low, and drawn by two horses, on one of
which is a postilion; these vehicles are exceedingly comfortable for
two persons. The horses are small, but spirited, and are said to be
able to undergo great fatigue, although their appearance does not
promise it. This drive is enlivened by the music of the different
regiments, who are at this time to be seen manoeuvring on the Prado.
The soldiers have a very neat and clean appearance ; great attention
is paid to them, and the whole are well appointed. The force sta-

f

MANILLA. 209

tioned in Mnnilla is six tliousand, and the army in the Philippines
amounts to twenty thousand men. The ofiicers are all Spaniards,
generally the relations and friends of those in the administration of
the governtnenl. The pay of the soldiers is four dollars a month, and
a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As troops, I was told
they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid out in many
avenuesj leading in various directions to the suburbs, and these are
planted with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant shade. It is
well kept, and creditable to the city.

In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female
beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but
revert to their wearing no stockings beneath.
j On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building

scarce deserves the name: the acting was equally bad. This amuse-
ment meets with little encouragement in Manilla, and I was told, was
discountenanced by the Governor.

I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a tertulia in the
city. The company was not a large one, comprising some thirty or
forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen. It resembled those of the
mother country. Dancing was introduced at an early hour, and con-_
tinned till a few minutes before eleven o'clock, at which time the
gates of the city are always shut. It w^as amusing to see the sudden
breaking np of the party, most of the guests residing out of the city.
The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, &c,, produced for a few

i

f
J

!

!

i

i

4

minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting off at the
earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late. This regulation,
by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does not appear
necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication between
the foreign and Spanish society, as the former is obliged, as before
observed, to live outside of the city proper. This want of free inter-
course is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship by
which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed.

The society at this tertulia was easy, and so f^ir as the enjoyment
of dancing went, pleasant ; but there was no conversation. The re-
freshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks in
an anteroom. The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for
entertainments, but only one of the rooms was w^ell lighted. From
the noi^elty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the

house, we passed a pleasant evening.

The natives and mestizoes attracted much of my attention at Ma-
nilla. Their dress is peculiar: over a pair of striped trousers of
various colours, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt, a large

300

M A N I L L A.

straw hat, and around the head or neck a many-coloured silk hand
kerchief. They often wear slippers as well as shoes. The Chinese
dress, as they have done for centuries, in loose white shirts and
trousers. One peculiarity of the common men is their passion for
cock-fighting; and they carry these fowls wherever they go, after a
peculiar fashion under their arm.

Cock-fighting is licensed by the government, and great; care is
taken in the breeding of game fowls, which are very large and heavy

birds.

They are armed with a curv^ed double-edged gaff*

The

exhibitions are usually crowded with half-breeds or mestizoes, who
are generally more addicted to gambling than either the higher or
lower classes of Spaniards. It would not be an unapt designation to
call the middlincr class cock-fighters, for their whole lives seem to be

MANILLA COSTHMES

taken up with the breeding and fighting of these birds. On the exit
from a cockpit, I was much amused with the mode of giving the
return check, which was done by a stamp on the naked arm, and
precludes the possibility of its transfer to another person. The dress
of the lower order of females is somewhat civilized, yet it bore so
strong a resemblance to that of the Polynesians as to recall the latter
to our recollection. A long piece of coloured cotton is wound round
the body, like the pareu, and tucked in at the side : this covers the

MANILLA. 301

I nether limbs ; and a jacket fitting close to the body is worn, without a

shirt- In some, this jacket is ornamented with work around the neck ;
it has no collar, and in many cases no sleeves, and over this a richly
embroidered cape. The feet are covered with slippers, with wooden
soles, which are kept on by the little toe, only four toes eulcring the
slipper, and the little one being on the outside. The effect of both
costumes is picturesque.

The market is a never-failing place of amusement to a foreigner, for
there a crowd of the common people is always to be seen, and their
mode of conducting business may be observed. The canals here afford
great facilities for bringing vegetables and produce to market in a fresh
state. The vegetables are chiefly brought from the shores of the Laguna
de Bay, through the river Pasig- The meat appeared inferior, and as
in all Spanish places the art of butchering is not understood. The
poultry, however, surpasses that of any other place I have seen, parti-
cularly in ducks, the breeding of which is pursued to a great extent.
Establishments for breeding these birds are here carried on in a
systematic manner, and are a great curiosity. They consist of many
small enclosures, each about twenty feet by forty or fifty, made of
bamboo, which are placed on the bank of the river, and partly covered
with water. In one corner of the enclosure is a small house, where the
eggs are hatched by artificial heat, produced by rice-chaff in a state of
fermentation. It is not uncommon to see six or eight hundred duck-
lings all of the same age. There are several hundreds of these enclo-
sures, and the number of ducks of all ages may be computed at
millions. The manner in which they are schooled to take exercise, and
to go in and out of the water, and to return to their house, almost
exceeds belief. The keepers or tenders are of the Tagala tribe, who
live near the enclosures, and have them at all times under their eye.
The old birds are not suffered to approach the young, and all of one
age are kept together. They are fed upon rice and a small species of
shell-fish that is found in the riv^er and is peculiar to it. From the
extent of these establishments we inferred that ducks were the favourite
article of food at Manilla, and the consumption of them must be
immense. The markets are well supplied with chickens, pigeons, young
partridges, which are brought in alive, and turkeys. Among strange
articles that we saw for sale, were cakes of coagulated blood. The
markets are w^ell stocked with a variety of fish, taken both in the
Laguna and bay of Manilla, affording a supply of both the fresh and
salt-water species, and many smaller kinds that are dried and smoked.

4
/

pum

2A

302

MANILLA.

radishes, very long squashes, &c-; of fruits, they have melons, chicos,
durians, marbolas, and oranges.

Fish are caught in weirs, by the hook, or in seines. The former are
constructed of bamboo stakes, in the shallow water of the lake, at the
point where it flows through the river Pasig- In the bay, and at the
mouth of the river, the fish are taken in nets, suspended by the four
corners from hoops attached to a crane, by which they are lowered into
the water. The fishing-boats are little better than rafts, and are called
saraboas. The wood-cut at the end of this chapter will give a better
idea of them.

The usual passage-boat is termed banca, and is made of a single
trunk. These are very much used by the inhabitants. They have a
sort of awning to protect the passenger from the rays of the sun ; and
being light are easily rowed about, although they are exceedingly un-
comfortable to sit in, from the lowness of the seats, and liable to over-
set, if the weight is not placed near the bottom. The
section and drawing will give a correct idea of them ; the
out-rigger has in all probability been dispensed with,
owing to the impediment it offered to the navigation of
their canals; these canals offer great facilities for the
transportation of burdens ; the banks of almost all of them
are faced with granite^ Where the streets cross them,
there are substantial stone bridges, which are generally of no more than
one arch, so as not to impede the navigation. The barges used for the
transportation of produce resemble our canal-boats, and have sliding
roofs to protect them from the rain.

SECTION,

MANILLA BANCA.

Water, far the supply of vessels, is brought off in large earthen jars.
It is obtained from the river, and if care is not taken, the water will be
impure; it ought to be filled beyond the city. Our supply was obtained
five or six miles up the river, by a lighter, in which were placed a
number of water-casks. It proved excellent.

The trade of Manilla extends to all parts of the vvorld. A compara-
tive statement of the exports of 1840 and 1841, and the regulations of
the trade, will be found in Appendix XII.

<

<

f

MANILLA. 303

There are many facilities for the transaction of business, as far as
the shipment of articles is concerned; but great difficulties attend tlie
settling of disputed accounts, collecting debts, &c. ; in the way of whicli
the laws passed in 1834 have thrown many obstacles. All commercial
business of this kind goes before, first, the Junta de Comercio, and then
an appeal to the Tribunal de Comercio. This appeal, however, is
merely nominal ; for the same judges preside in each, and they are said
to be susceptible of influences that render an appeal to them by honest
men at all times hazardous. The opinion of those w^ho have had the
misfortune to be obliged to recur to these tribunals is, that it is better
to suffer wrong than encounter both the expense and vexation of a
resort to them for justice. In the first oi these courts the decision is
long delayed, fees exacted, and other expenses incurred ; and when
judgment is at length given, it excites one party or the other to appeal :
other expenses accrue in consequence, and the advocates and judges
grow rich while both the litigants suffer. I understood that these
tribunals were intended to simplify business, lessen the time of suits, and
promote justice; but these results have not been obtained, and many
believe that they have had the contrary effect, and have opened the
road 10 further abuses.

The country around Manilla, though no more than an extended
plain for some miles, is on^, of great interest and beauty, and affords
many agreeable rides on the roads to Santa Anna and Maraquino.
Most of the country-seats are situated on the river Pasig; they may
indeed be called palaces, from their extent and appearance. They
are built upon a grand scale, and after the Italian style, with terraces,
supported by strong abutments, decked wuth vases of plants. The
grounds are ornamented with the luxuriant, lofty, and graceful trees
of the tropics ; these are tolerably well kept. Here and there fine
large stone churches, with their towers and steeples, are to be seen,
the whole giving the impression of a wealthy nobility, and a happy

\ and flourishing peasantry.

In one of our rides we made a visit to the Campo Santo or ceme-
tery, about four miles from Manilla. It is small, but has many hand-

some

trees about it ; among them was an Agati, full of large white
flowers, showing most conspicuously. The whole place is as unlike a
depository of the dead as it well can be. Its form is circular, having
a small chapel, in the form of a rotunda, directly opposite the gate, or
entrance. The walls are about twenty feet high, with three tiers of
niches, in w^hich the bodies are enclosed with quicklime. Here they
are allowed to remain for three years, or until such time as the niches
may be required for further use. Niches may be purchased, how^ever,

t

304 MANILLA.

and permanently closed up; but in the whole cemetery there were but
five thus secured* This w^ould seem to indicate an indifference on the
part of the living, for their departed relatives or friends; at least such
w^as my impression at the time. The centre of the enclosure is laid
out as a flower-garden and shrubbery, and all the buildings are w^ashed
a deep buff-colour, with white cornices ; these colours, when contrasted
with the green foliage, give an effect that is not unpleasing. In the
chapel are two tombs, the one for the bishop, and the other for the
governor. The former, I believe, is occupied, and will continue to be
so, until another shall follow him; but the latter is empty, for, since the
erection of the cemetery, none of the governors have died. In the
rear of the chapel is another small cemetery, called Los Angelos ; and,
further behind, the Osero. The former is similar to the one in front,
but smaller, and appropriated exclusively to children ; the latter is an
open space, where the bones of all those who have been removed from
the niches, after three years, are cast out, and now lie in a confused
heap, w^ith portions of flesh and hair adhering to them. No person is
allowed to be received here for interment, uptil the fees are first paid
to the priest, however respectable the parties maybe; and all those
who pay the fees, and are of the true faith, can be interred. I was
told of a corpse of a very respectable person being refused admittance,
for the want of the priest's pass, to show that the claim had been satis-
fied, and the coffin stopped in the road until it was obtained. We
ourselves witnessed a similar refusal. A servant entered with a dead
child, borne on a tray, which he presented to the sacristan to have
interred; the latter asked him for the pass, which not being produced,
he was dismissed, nor was he suffered to leave his burden until this
requisite could be procured from the priest, who lived opposite. The
price of interment was three dollars, but whether this included the
purchase of the niche, or its rent for three years only, I did not learn-
The churches of Manilla can boast of several fine-toned bells, which
are placed in large belfries or towers. There was one of these towers
near the Messrs. Sturges', where we stayed ; and the manner in which
the bell was used, when swung around by the force of two or three
men, attracted our attention ; for the ringers occasionally practised
feats of agility by passing over with the bell, and landing on the
coping on the opposite side. The tower being open, we could see the
manoeuvre irom the windows, and, as strangers, went there to look on.
One day, "whilst at dinner, they began to ring, and as many of the
officers had not witnessed the feat, they sought the windows. This
excited the vanity of those in the belfry, who redoubled their exertions,
and performed the feat successfully many times, although in some in-

f

\

MANILLA. 305

r

Stances they narrowly escaped accident, by landing just within the
outside coping. This brought us all to the window, and the next turn,
more force having been given to the bell, the individual who attempted
the feat w^as thrown headlong beyond the tower, and dashed to pieces
on the pavement beneath. Although shocked at the accident, I felt
still more so when, after a few minutes, the bell was again heard
making its usual sound, as if nothing had occurred to interrupt the
course of its hourly peals.

In company with Dr. Tolben, I visited one of the convents w^hcre he
attended on some of the monks who were sick, and who w^as well ac-
quainted with them all. I was much struck wnth the extent of the build-
ing, which was four stories high, with spacious corridors and galleries,
the walls of which were furnished with pictures representing the mar-
tyrdom of the Dominican friars in Japan. These were about seventy
in number, in the Chinese style of art, and evidently painted by some
one of that nation, calling himself an artist. From appearances, how-
ever, I should think they were composed by the priests, who have not
a little taxed their invention to find out the different modes in w^hich a
man can be put to death. Many evidently, if not all, had been in-
vented for the pictures. So perplexed had they apparently been, that
in one of the last it was observed that the executioner held his victim
at arms' length by the heels, and was about to let him drop headfore-
most into a well. From the galleries we passed into the library, and
thence into many of the rooms, and finally we mounted to the top of
the monastery, which affords a beautiful view of the bay, city, and
suburbs. There I was presented to three of the friars, who were
pleasant and jolly-looking men. Upon the roof was a kind of observa-
tory, or look-out, simply furnished with billiard-tables and shuffleboards,
while the implements for various other games lay about on small tables,
with telescopes on stands, and comfortable arm-chairs. It was a place
v^^here the friars put aside their religious and austere character or ap-
^ pearance, and sought amusement. It was a delightful spot, so far as

'' coolness and the freshness of the sea air were concerned, and its

aspect gave me an insight behind the curtain of these establishments
that very soon disclosed many things I was ignorant of before. All
the friars w^ere of a rotund form, and many of them bore the marks
of good living in their full, red, and bloated faces. It seems to be
generally understood at Manilla, that they live upon the fat of the
^ land. We visited several of the rooms, and w^ere warmly greeted by

the padres, one of whom presented me with a meteorological table for

the previous year.

The revenues of all these religious establishments are considerable;

VOL. V.

2A2 39

306

M ANILL A-

the one I visited belonged to the Dominicans, and was very rich. Their
revenues are principally derived from lands owned by them, and the
tithes from the different districts which they have under their charge,
to which are added many alms and gifts. On inquiry, I found their
general character was by no means thought well of, and they had of
late years lost much of the influence that they possessed before the
revolution in the mother country.

Among the inhabitants we saw here, was a native boy of the Iro-

gotes, or mountain tribe. He is said to be a true Negrito. Mr. Agate
obtained a hkeness of him, of which the cut is a copy.

NEGRITO BOY,

The Spaniards, as has been stated, have never been able to subdue
this tribe, who are said to be still as wild as on their first landing ;
they are confined almost altogether to the plains within or near the
mountains, and from time to time make inroads in great force on the
outer settlements, carrying off as much plunder as possible. The
burden of this often causes them to be overtaken by the troops:
When overtaken, they fight desperately, and were it not for the fire-
arms of their adversaries, would give them much trouble. Few are
captured on such occasions, and it is exceedingly difficult to take

SWORD-

HATCHET.

them alive, umess when very young. These mountains furnish them
with an iron ore almost pure, in manufacturing which they show

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MANILLA. 307

much ingenuity. Some of their weapons were presented to the Ex-
pedition by Josiah Moore, Esq. These are probably imitations of the
early Spanish weapons used against them. From all accounts, the
natives are of Malay origin, and allied to those of the other islands
of the extensive archipelago of the Eastern Seas; but the popula-
tion of the towns and cities of the island are so mixed, from the con-
stant intercourse with Chinese, Europeans, and others, that there is
no pure blood among them. When at Manilla, we obtained a grammar
of the Tagala language, which is said to be now rarely heard, and to
have become nearly obsolete. This grammar is believed to be the only
one extant, and wvas procured from a padre, who presented it to the
Expedition.

The Pampangans are considered the finest tribe of natives ; they
are excessively fond of horse-racing, and bet very considerable sums
upon it ; they have the reputation of being an industrious and energetic
set of men.

The mode of raising revenue by a poll-tax causes great discontent
among all classes, for although Hght, it is, as it always has been else-
where, unpopular. All the Chinese pay a capitation tax of four
dollars. The revenue from various sources is said to amount to one
million six hundred thousand dollars, of which the poll-tax amounts
to more than one-half, the rest being derived from the customs,
tobacco, &c. There is no tax upon land. It was thought at Manilla
that a revenue might be derived by indirect taxation, far exceeding
this sum, without being sensibly felt by the inhabitants. This mode
is employed in the eastern islands under the English and Dutch rule,
and it is surprising that the Spaniards also do not adopt it, or some
other method to increase resources that are so much needed. When-
ever the ministry in Spain had to meet a claim, they were a few
years ago in the habit of issuing drafts on this colonial government
in payment. These came at last in such numbers, that latterly they
have been compelled to suspend the payment of them.
^ The revenue of the colonial government is very little more than

will meet the expenses ; and it is believed that, notwithstanding these
unaccepted claims, it received orders to remit the surplus, if any, to
Spain, regardless of honour or good faith.

The government of the Philippines is in the hands of a governor-
general, who has the titles of viceroy, commander-in-chief, sub-dele-
) gate, judge of the revenue from the post-office, commander of the

• troops, captain-general, and commander of the naval forces. His

duties embrace every thing that relates to the security and defence of
the country. As advisers, he has a council called the Audiencia.

SOS

MANILLA.

The islands are divided into provinces, each of wliich has a military
officer with the title of governor, appointed by the governor-general.
They act as chief magistrates, have jurisdiction over all disputes of
minor importance, have the command of the troops in time of war,
and are collectors of the royal revenues, for the security of which they
give bonds, which must be approved of by the comptroller-general of
the treasury. The province of Cavite is alone exempt from this rule,
and the collection of tribute is there confided to a police magistrate.

Each province is again subdivided into pueblos, containing a greater
or less number of inhabitants, each of which has again its ruler, called
a gobernadorcillo, who has in like manner other officers under him to
act as police magistrates. The number of the latter are very great,
each of them having his appropriate duties. These consist in the
supervision of the grain fields, cocoa-nut groves, betel-nut plantations,
and in the preservation of the general order and peace of the town.
So numerous are these petty officers, that there is scarcely a family of
any consequence, that has not a member who holds some kind of
office under government. This policy, in case of disturbances, at once
unites a large and influential body on the side of the government, that
is maintained at little expense. The gobernadorcillo exercises the
municipal authority, and is especially charged to aid the parish priest
in every thing appertaining to religious observances, &c.

In the towns where the descendants of the Chinese are sufficiently
numerous, they can, by permission of the governor, elect their own
petty governors and officers from among themselves.

In each town there is also a head-man (cabezas de barangay), who
has the charge of fifty tributaries, in each of which is included as
many families. This division is called a barangay. This office
forms by far the most important part of the machinery of government
in the Philippine Islands, for these head-men are the attorneys of these
small districts, and become the electors of the gobernadorcillos, and
other civil officers. Only twelve, however, of them or their substitutes,
are allowed to vote in each town.

The office of head-man existed before the conquest of the island,
and the Spaniards showed their wisdom in continuing and adapting
it to their system of police. The office among the natives was heredi-
tary, but their conquerors made it also elective, and when a vacancy
now occurs through want of heirs, or resignation, it is filled up by the
superintendent of the province, on the recommendation of the gober-
nadorcillo and the head-men- This is also the case when any new
office is created. The privileges of the head-men are great ; them-
selves, their wives, and their first-born children, are exempted from

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MANILLA. 309

paying tribute to the crown, an exoneration which is owing to
their being collectors of the royal revenues. Their duties consist in
maintaining good order and harmony, in dividing the labour required
for the public benefit equally, adjusting differences, and receiving the
taxes.

The gobernadorcillo takes cognizance of all civil cases not exceeding
two tales of gold, or forty-four dollars in silver; all criminal cases must
be sent to the chief of the province. The head-men formerly served for
no more than three years, and if this was done faithfully, they became
and were designated as principals, in virtue of which rank they
received the title of Don.

The election takes place at the court-house of the town; the electors
are the gobernadorcillo w^hose office is about to expire, and twelve of
the oldest head-men, collectors of tribute and of " champanes;" for the
gobernadorcillo they must select, by a plurality of votes, three indi-
viduals, who must be able to speak, read, and write the Spanish
language. The voting is done by ballot, in the presence of the notary
(escribano), and the chief of the province, who presides. The curate
may be present, to look after the interest of the church, but for no other
purpose. After the votes are taken, they are sealed and transmitted to
the governor-general, who selects one of the three candidates, and
issues a commission. In the more distant provinces, the chief of the
district has the authority to select the gobernadorcillo, and fill up the
commission, a blank form of which, signed by the governor-general, is
left with him for that purpose.

The head-men may be elected petty governors, and still retain their
office, and collect the tribute or taxes ; for it is not considered just, that
the important office of chief of Barangay should deprive t}\e holder of
the honour of being elected gobernadorcillo.

The greater part of the Chinese reside in the province of Tondo, but
the tribute is there collected by the alcalde mayor, with an assistant
taken from among the officers of the royal treasury.

The poll-tax on the Chinese amounts to four dollars a head : it was
formerly one-half more. Tax-lists of the Chinese are kept, in which they
are registered and classified ; and opposite the name is the amount at
which the individual is assessed.

The Spanish government seems particularly desirous of giving con-
sequence even to its lowest offices ; and in order to secure it to them, it
Is directed that the chiefs of provinces shall treat the gobernadorcillos
with respect, offering them seats when they enter their houses or other
places, and not allowing them to remain standing; furthermore, the
parish curates are required to treat them with equal respect. So far as

310 MANILLA-

concernsthe provinces, the government maybe called, notwithstanding
the officers, courts, &c., monastic. The priests rule, and frequently
administer punishment, with their own hands, to either sex, of which
an instance will be cited hereafter.

As soon as we could procure the necessary passports, which were
obligingly furnished by the governor to " Don Russel Sturges y quatro
Anglo Americanos," our party left Manilla for a short jaunt to the
mountains. It was considered as a mark of great favour on the part
of his excellency to grant this indulgence, particularly as he had a few
months prior denied it to a party of French officers. I was told that
he preferred to make it a domestic concern, by issuing the passport in
the name of a resident, in order that compliance in this case might not
give umbrage to the French. It was generally believed that the cause
of the refusal in the former instance was the imprudent manner in which
the French officers went about taking plans and sketches, at the corners
of streets, &c., which in the minds of an unenlightened and ignorant
colonial government, of course excited suspicion. Nothing can be so
ridiculous as this system of passports; for if one was so disposed, a
plan, and the most minute information of every thing that concerns the
defences of places, can always be obtained at little cost now-a-days ; for
such is the skill of engineers, that a plan is easily made of places,
merely by a sight of them. We were not, however, disposed to question
the propriety of the governor's conduct in the former case, and I felt
abundantly obliged to him for a permission that would add to our stock
of information.

It was deemed at first impossible for the party to divide, as they had
but one passport, and some difficulties were anticipated from the number
being double that stated in the passport. The party consisted of

Messrs. Sturges, Pickering, Eld, Rich, Dana, and Brackenridge. Mr.

Sturges, however, saw no difficulty in dividing the party after they had
passed beyond the precincts of the city, taking the precaution, at the

same time, not to appear together beyond the number designated on the
paper.

On the 14th, they left Manilla, and proceeded in carriages to Santa
Anna, on the Pasig, in order to avoid the delay that would ensue if
they followed the windings of the river in a banca, and against the
current.

At Santa Anna they found their bancas waiting for them, and
embarked. Here the scene was rendered animated by numerous boats
of all descriptions, from the parao to the small canoe of a single log.

There is a large population that live wholly on the water: for the
padrones of the paraos have usually their families with them, w^hich,

MANILLA. 311

from the great variety of ages and sexes, give a very difTerent and
much more bustling appearance to the crowd of boats, than would be
• the case if they only contained those who are employed to navigate
them. At times the paraos and bancas, of all sizes, together with the
saraboas and pativas (duck establishments), become jumbled together,
and create a confusion and noise such as is seldom met wuth in any
other country.

The pativas are under the care of the original inhabitants, to whom
exclusively the superintendence of the ducklings seems to be committed.
' The pens are made of bamboo, and are not over a foot high. The

birds were all in admirable order, and made no attempt to escape over
the low barrier, although so slight that it was thought by some of our
gentlemen it would not have sufficed to confine American ducks, al-
though their wings might have been cut. The mode of giving them

I

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exercise was by causing them to run round in a ring. The good
understanding existing betw^een the keepers and their charge was
striking, particularly when the former were engaged in cleansing the
pens, and assisting the current to carry off the impurities. In the
course of their sail, it was estimated that hundreds of thousands of

i ducks of all ages were seen.

The women who were seen were usually engaged in fishing with a
hook and line, and were generally standing in the w^ater, or in canoes.
The saraboas w^ere here also in use. The run of the fish is generally
concentrated by a chevaux-de-frise to guide them towards the nets and
localities where the fishers place themselves.

At five o'clock they reached the Laguna de Bay, where they took
in a new crew, with mast and sail. This is called twenty-five miles
from Manilla by the river ; the distance in a bird's flight is not over
twelve. The whole distance is densely peopled, and w^ell cultivated.
The crops consist of indigo, rice, &c., with groves of the betel, palm,
cocoa-nut, and quantities of fruit trees.

The shores of the lake are shelving, and afford good situations for
placing fish-weirs, which are here established on an extensive scale.
These weirs are formed of slips of bamboo, and are to be seen run-
ning in every direction to the distance of two or three miles. They
may be said to invest entirely the shores of the lake for several miles
from its outlet, and without a pilot it would be difficult to find the
way through them. At nic^ht, when heron and tern were seen roost-

er -" "'O

ing on the top of each slat, these weirs presented rather a curious
spectacle.

The Laguna de Bay is said to be about ten leagues in length by
three in width, and trends in a north-northwest and south-southeast

312

MANILLA.

direction: an idea of its shape will be more readily arrived at from the
small map of the environs of Manilla which is annexed.

ENVIRONS OF MANILLA.

After dark, the bancas separated. Mr. Sturges, with Dr. Pickering
and Mr. Eld, proceeded to visit the mountain of Maijaijai, while
Messrs. Rich, Dana, and Brackenridge, went towards the Volcano de
Taal. The latter party took the passport, while the former relied
upon certain letters of introduction for protection, in case of difficulty.

Mr. Sturges, with his party, directed his course to the east side of
the lake, towards a point called Jalujalu, w^hich they reached about
three o'clock in the morning, and stopped for the crew to cook some
rice, &c. At 8 a. m., they reached Santa Cruz, situated about half a
mile up a small streamlet, called Paxanau. At this place they found
Don Escudero, to whom they had a letter of introduction, and who
holds a civil appointment. They were very kindly received by this
gentleman and his brown lady, with their interesting family. He at
once ordered horses for them to proceed to the mission of Maijaijai,
and entertained them with a sumptuous breakfast.

They were not prepared to set out before noon, until which time
they strolled about the town of Santa Cruz, the inhabitants of which
are Tagalas. There are only two old Spaniards in the place. The
province in which Santa Cruz is situated, contains about five thousand
inhabitants, of whom eighteen hundred pay tribute.

MANILLA. 313

r

The people have the character of being orderly, and gov^ern them-
selves without the aid of the military- The principal article of culture
is the cocoa-nut tree, which is seen in large groves. The trunks of
these were notched, as was supposed, for the purpose of climbing them.
From the spathe a kind of spirit is manufactured, which is fully as
strong as our whiskey.

About noon they left Don Escudero's, and took a road leading to the

w

southward and eastward, through a luxuriant and beautiful country,

well cultivated, and ornamented with lofty cocoa-nut trees, betel palms,
and banana groves. Several beautiful valleys were passed, with stream-
lets rushhicr throucrh them-

Maijaijai is situated about one thousand feet above the Laguna de
Bay, but the rise is so gradual that it was almost imperceptible. The
country has every where the appearance of being densely peopled ;
but no more than one village was passed between Santa Cruz and the
mission. They had letters to F. Antonio Romana y Aranda, padre
of the mission, who received them kindly, and entertained them most
hospitably. When he was told of their intention to visit the mountain,
he said it was impossible with such weather, pointing to the black
clouds that then enveloped its summit; and he endeavoured to persuade
the gentlemen to desist from what appeared to him a mad attempt;
but finding them resolved to make the trial, he aided in making all the
necessary preparations, though he had no belief in their success.

On the morning of the 27th, after mass, Mr. Eld and Dr. Pickering
set out, but Mr. Sturges preferred to keep the good padre company
until their return. The padre had provided them with guides, horses,
twenty natives, and provisions for three days. He had been himself
on the same laborious journey, some six months before, and knew its
fatigues ; although it turned out afterwards that his expedition was
performed in fine weather, and that he had been borne on a litter by
natives the whole way.

\ The first part of the road, was wet and miry, and discouraging

enough. The soil was exceedingly rich, producing tropical plants
in great profusion, in the midst of which were seen the neat bamboo
cottages, with their industrious and cleanly-looking inhabitants. When
they reached the foot of the mountain, they found it was impossible to
jide farther, and were obliged to take to walking, which was, how-
ever, less of a hardship than riding the little rats of horses, covered
with mud and dirt, which were at first deea^ied useless ; but the man-
ner in which they ascended and maintained themselves on the slippery
banks, surpassed any thing they had before witnessed in horseflesh.
The first part of the ascent of the mountain was gradual, but over t

VOL. V, 2B 40

/

314 MANILLA.

miry path, which was extremely slippery ; and had it not been for the
sticks stuck down by the party of the padre in their former ascent,
they would have found it extremely difficult to overcome: to make it
more disagreeable, it rained all the time.

It took about two hours to reach the steep ascent. The last portion
of their route had been through an uninhabited region, with some
openings in the woods, affording pasture-grounds to a few small herds
of buffalo- In three hours they reached the half-way house, by a very
steep and regular ascent. Here the natives insisted upon stopping to
cook their breakfast, as they had not yet partaken of any thing through
the day. The natives now endeavoured to persuade them it was im-
practicable 10 go any farther, or at least to reach the top of the moun-
tain and return before night. Our gentlemen lost their patience at the
delay, and after an hour's endurance of it, resolved to set out alone.
Six of the natives followed them, and by half-past three they reached
the summit, where they found it cold and uncomfortable. The ascent
had been difficult, and was principally accomplished by catching hold
of shrubs and the roots of trees. The summit is comparatively bare,
and not more than fifty feet in width. The side opposite to that by
which they mounted was perpendicular, but owing to the thick fog
they could not see the depth to which the precipice descended.

The observations with the barometers were speedily taj^en, which
.gave the height of Banajoa as six thousand five hundred feet. The
trees on the summit were twenty or thirty feet high, and a species
of fir was very common. Gaultheria, attached to the trunks of trees,
Rhododendrons, and Polygonums, also abounded. The rocks were so
covered with soil that it was difficult to ascertain their character; Dr.
Pickering is of opinion, however, that they are not volcanic. The
house on the summit afforded them little or no shelter; being a mere
shed, open on all sides, they found it untenantable, and determined to
return as soon as their observations were finished, to the half-way

house, which they reached before dark.

The night was passed uncomfortably, and in the morning they made
an early start down the mountain to reach the native village at its foot,
where they were refreshed with a cup of chocolate, cakes, and some
dulces, according to the custom of the country. At ten o'clock they
reached the mission, where they w^ere received by the padre and Mr.
Sturges. The former was greatly astonished to hear that they had
really been to the summit, and had accomplished in twenty-four hours
what he had deemed a labour of three days. He quickly attended to
their wants, the first among which was dry clothing; and as their

age had unfortunately been left at Santa Cruz, the wardrobe ot

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MANILLA. 315

the rotund padre was placed at their disposal. Although the fit was
rather uncouth on the spare forms of our gentlemen, yet his clothes
served the purpose tolerably well, and were thankfully made use of.
During their absence, Mr. Sturges had been much amused with the
discipline he had witnessed at the hands of the church, which here
seem to be the only visible ruling power. Two young natives had
made complaint to the padre that a certain damsel had entered into
vows or engagements to marry both : she was accordingly brought up
before the padre, Mr. Sturges being present. The padre first lectured
her most seriously upon the enormity of her crime, then inflicted seve-
ral blows on the palm of her outstretched hand, again renewing the
lecture, and finally concluding with another whipping. The girl was
pretty, and excited the interest of our friend, who looked on with
much desire to interfere, and save the damsel from the corporeal
punishment, rendered more aggravated by the dispassionate and cool

I manner in which it and the lecture were administered. In the conver-

sation which ensued, the padre said he had more cases of the violation
of the marriage vow, and of infidelity, than any other class of crimes.

After a hearty breakfast, or rather dinner, and expressing their
thanks to the padre, they rode back to Santa Cruz, where they
arrived at an early hour, and at 9 p. m. they embarked in their bancas

for Manilla.

In the morning they found themselves, after a comfortable night, at
t Banos. Here they took chocolate with the padre, to whom Mr.

Sturges had a letter, who informed them that the other party had left
the place the evening before for Manilla-

This party had proceeded to the town of Baia, where they arrived
at daylight on the 15th. Baia is quite a pretty place, and well situ-
ated ; the houses are clean and comfortable, and it possessed a vene-
rable stone church, with towers and bells. On inquiring for the padre,
they found that he was absent, and it w^as in consequence impossible
for them to procure horses to proceed to the volcano de Taal. They

therefore concluded to walk to the hot springs at Baiios, about five

miles distant. Along the road they collected a number of curious
plants. Rice is much cultivated, and fields of it extend to some dis-
tance on each side of the road. Buffaloes were seen feeding and

wallowing in the ditches.

At Banos the hot springs are numerous, the water issuing from the
rock over a considerable surface- The quantity of water discharged
by them is large, and the whole is collected and conducted to the
bathing-houses. The temperature of the water at the mouth of the
culvert was 180^

\

,316 MANILLA.

The old bath-house is a singular-looking place, being built on the
hill-side, in the old Spanish style, with large balconies, that are en-

closed in the manner already described, in speaking of the houses in

Manilla. It is beautifully situated, and overlooks the baths and lake.
The baths are of stone, and consist of two large roonns, in each of
which is a niche, through which the hot water passes. This building
IS now in ruins, the roof and floors having fallen in.

Banos is a small village, but contains a respectable-looking stone
church, and two or three houses of the same material Here the
party found a difficulty in getting on, for the alcalde could not speak
Spanish, and they were obliged to use an interpreter, in order to com-
municate with him. Notwithstanding this, he is a magistrate, whose
duty it is to administer laws written in that language. Finding they
could not succeed even here in procuring guides or horses, they deter-
mined to remain and explore Mount Maquiling, the height of which is
three thousand four hundred and fifty feet, and in the mean time to
send for their bancas.

The next day they set out on their journey to that mountain, and
the first part of their path lay over a gentle ascent, through cultivated
grounds. Next succeeded an almost perpendicular hill, bare of trees,
and overgrown wnth a tall grass, which it was difficult to pass
through-

Such had been the time taken up, that the party found it impossible
to reach the summit and return before dark. They therefore began to
collect specimens; and after having obtained a full load, they returned
late in the afternoon to Banos.

«

The mountain is composed of trachytic rocks and tufa, which are

r ' ,

occasionally seen to break through the rich and deep soil, showing
themselves here and there, in the deep valleys which former volcanic

- +

action has created, and which have destroyed the regular outline of the
cone-shaped mountain. The tufa is generally found to form the gently-
sloping plains that surround these mountains, and has in all probability
been ejected from them. Small craters, of some two hundred feet in
height, are scattered over the plains. The tufa is likewise exposed to
view on the shores of the lake ; but elsewhere, except on a few bare
hills, it is entirely covered with the dense and luxuriant foliage. The
tufa is generally of a soft character, crumbling in the fingers, and in it
are found coarse and fine fragments of scoria, pumice, &c. The layers
are from a few inches to five feet in thickness.

In the country around Banos, there are several volcanic hills, and on

the sides of Mount Maquiling are appearances of parasitic cones,
similar to those observed at the Hawaiian Islands ; but time and the

MANILLA. 317

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foliage have so disguised them, that it is difficult to determine exactly
their true character.

I regretted exceedingly that the party that set out for the Lake de
Taal was not able to reach it, as, from the accounts T had, it must be
one of the most interesting portions of the country. It lies nearly south-
west from Manilla, and occupies an area of about one hundred and
twenty square miles. The Volcano de Taal is situated on an island
near the centre of it, and is now in action. The cone w^hich rises from
its centre is remarkably regular, and consists for the most part of
cinders and scoria. It has been found to be nine hundred feet in eleva-
tion above the lake. The crater has a diameter of two miles, and its
depth is equal to the elevation : the walls of the crater are nearly per-
pendicular, so much so that the descent cannot be made without the
assistance of ropes. At the bottom there are two small cones. Much
steam issues from the many fissures, accompanied by sulphurous acid
gas. The waters of the lake are impregnated with sulphur, and there
are said to be also large beds of sulphur. In the opinion of those who
have visited this spot, the whole lake once formed an immense crater;
and this does not appear very improbable, if we are to credit the
accounts we received of the many craters on this island that are now
filled with water; for instance, in the neighbourhood of San Pablo there
are said to be eight or nine.

The hot springs of Bafios are numerous, and in their vicinity large

E

quantities of steam are seen to issue from the shore of the lake. There
are about a dozen which give out a copious supply of water. The
principal one has been enclosed, and made to flow through a stone
aqueduct, which discharges a considerable stream. The temperature
of the water as it leaves the aqueduct is 178^ The villagers use it for
cooking and washing: the signs of the former employment are evident
enough from the quantities of feathers from the poultry that have been
scalded and plucked preparatory to cooking. The baths are formed by
a small circular building six feet in diameter, erected over the point of
discharge for the purpose of securing a steam-bath : the temperature of
these is 160° and 140°. A change of temperature is said to have
occurred in the latter.

The rocks in the vicinity are all tufa, and some of the springs break
out close to the cold water of the lake. Near the aqueduct, a stone
wall surrounds one of the principal outlets. Two-thirds of the area thus
enclosed is occupied by a pond of w^arm wafer, and the other third is
divided into two stone reservoirs, built for baths. These baths had at
one time a high reputation, and were a very fashionable resort for the
society of Manilla; but their celebrity gradually diminished, and the

2B2

318 MANILLA.

■

whole premises have gone out of repair, and are fast falUng to

ruin. ,

The water of the springs has no perceptible taste, and only a very
faint smell of sulphur is perceived* No gas escapes from it, but a white
incrustation covers the stones over which the water flows.

■i

Some of these waters were obtained, and since our return were put
into the hands of Dr. C. T. Jackson, of Boston, who gives the following
analysis :

Specific gravity, 1-0043; thermometer 60^; barometer 30*05 in,

4

A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to three thousand grains of
distilled water, on evaporation gave —

4

Dry salts, 5*95 grains.

A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to one thousand grains of
distilled water, was operated on for each of the following ingredients :

Chlorine, .
Carbonic acid.
Sulphuric acid,

0*66

0-16
0-03

Soda and sodium, ••.••,•..0.97

Magnesia,
Lime*

0-09

0-07

Potash, ••••• traces

Organic matter.
Manganese,

K

M

1-98

Mount

and monkeys, are found. Birds are also very numerous, and among
them is the horn-bill : the noise made by this bird resembles a loud
barking; report speaks of them as an excellent bird for the table. Our
gentlemen reached their lodging-place as the night closed in, and the next
day again embarked for Manilla, regretting that time would not permit
them to make another visit to so interesting a field of research. They
found the lake so rough that they were compelled to return, and
remain until eight o'clock. This, however, gave our botanists another
opportunity of making collections, among which were beautiful speci-
mens of Volkameria splendens, with elegant scarlet flowers, and a
Brugmansia, which expanded its beautiful silvery flowers after sunset.
On the shores a number of birds were feeding, including pelicans, with
their huge bills, the diver, with its long arched neck, herons, gulls,
eagles, and snow-white cranes, with ducks and other small aquatic
flocks. Towards night these were joined by large bats, that were

t

\

r

MANILLA. 319

seen winging their way towards the plantations of fruit. These, with
quantities of insects, gave a vivid idea of the wonderful myriads of
animated things that are constantly brought into being in these tropical
and luxuriant climates.

Sailing all night in a rough sea, they were much incommoded by the
water, which was shipped into the banca which kept them constantly
baling out; they reached the river Pasig at daylight, and again passed
the duck establishments, and the numerous boats and banca s on their
way to the markets of Manilla.

Both the parties reached the consul's the same day, highly pleased

with their respective jaunts. To the kindness of Messrs. Sturges and

Moore, we are mainly indebted for the advantages and pleasures

derived from the excursions.

The instruments were now embarked, and preparations made for

going to sea. Our stay at Manilla had added much to our collections ;

we obtained many new specimens, and the officers and naturalists

had been constantly and profitably occupied in their various duties.

We

Messrs. Stursres and Moore

Manilla

We had, through the kindness of Captain Salomon, procured a
native pilot for the Sooloo Sea, who was also to act as interpreter.

On the morning of the 21st, we took leave of our friends, and got
under way. The same day, and before we had cleared the bay, wc
spoke the American ship Angier, which had performed the voyage
from the United States in one hundred and twenty-four days, and fur-
nished us with late and interesting news. We then, with a strong
northerlv wind, made all sail to the south for the Straits of Mindoro.

MAjaiXA SARABOA.

CHAPTER IX

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM MA.\ILLA-INSTEUCTIOiVS TO MR. KiyTOX-MINDORO-SEMARARA-
PANAY— FLYING-FISH LEAVES US — BAY OF ANTIQUE-SAJV JOSE-MINDAVAO — CAL-
DERA — FORESTS OF MINDANAO— SANGB0YS—S00L00—S0UNG—CAV0E3 OF SOOLOO—
WE LAND AT SOOLOO— VISIT TO THE DATU MULU — HIS RESIDENCE— VISIT TO THE
SULTAN— HIS RESIDENCE— HIS PERSON AND DRESS— TREATY MADE WITH HIM-THE
HEIR APPARENT— WE ARE REFUSED PERMISSION TO VISIT THE INTERIOR— PISTOL
STOLEN— CHINESE QUARTER— THE KRIS-MARKET-BLOCKS OF AMERICAN GRANITE
-STOLEN PISTOL RETURNED— VISIT OF THE NATURALISTS TO MARONG AS— FISHING
APPARATUS — SURVEY OP THE HARBOUR OF SOUNG — SLAVES EMPLOYED AS AC-
COUNTANTS—BEASTS OF BURDEN — PROHIBITION OF SWINE — CHARACTER OF THE
PEOPLE OF SOOLOO— THEIR DRESS — OCCUPATIONS-STATE OF SOCIETY— MOUNTAIN
TRIBES-FORTS-POPULATION— COMMERCE— DUTIES— ADVICE TO TRADERS — POSSIBLE
EXTENSION OF TRADE — HISTORY OF SOOLOO — ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH EAST
INDIA COMPANY TO OPEN A TRADE— ATTEMPTS AT CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS
— GRA2VT OF BALAMBANGAN TO THE EAST INDIA COMPANY— ENGLISH SETTLEMENT
—ITS FATE— FORMER PROSPERITY OF SOOLOO— PIRACIES OF THE SOOLOOS — MALAY
PIRATES -THE BAJOWS — THEIR CHARACTER -CLIMATE OF SOOLOO — DISEASES -^
RELIGION — DEPARTURE FROM SOOLOO — PANGOOTAARAANG — CAGAYAN SOOLOO —
MANGSEE ISLANDS — SURVEYS - BALAMBANGAN — BORNEO — THE DY ACKS — THEIR
CHARACTER, MA2VNERS, AND CUSTOMS— NAVIGATION OF THE SOOLOO SEA-PASSAGE
TO SINGAPORE— ARRIVAL THERE— REUNION OF THE SQUADRON— PROCEEDINGS OF
THE PORPOISE AND OREGON -NECKER ISLAND -FRENCH- FRIGATE SHOAL -MARO
REEF.

(321)

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CHAPTEK IX.

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S O O L O O.

1842.

On the evening of the 21st of January, the Vincennes, with the
tender in company, left the bay of Manilla. I then sent for Mr.
Knox, who commanded the latter, and gave him directions to keep
closely in company with the Vincennes, and at the same time pointed
out to him places of rendezvous where the vessels might again meet
in case any unavoidable circumstance caused their separation. I was

more particular in giving him instructions to avoid losing sight of the
Vincennes, as I was aware that my proposed surveys might be im-
peded or frustrated altogether, were I deprived of the assistance of the
vessel under his command.

On the 22d, we passed the entrance of the Straits of San Bernadino.
It would have been my most direct route to follow these straits until
I had passed Mindoro, and it is I am satisfied the safest course, unless
the winds are fair, for the direct passage. My object, however, was
to examine the ground for the benefit of others, and the Apo Shoal,
which lies about mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro, claimed
my first attention. The tender was despatched to survey it, while I
proceeded in the Vincennes to examine the more immediate entrance
to the Sooloo Sea, off the southwest end of Mindoro.

Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro, and our observations
made it two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shape of a dome,
and appears remarkably regular when seen from its western side. On
approaching Mindoro, we, as is usual, under high islands, lost the
steady breeze, and the wind became light for the rest of the day
Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic ; it appears as

(323)

324 S O O L O O .

if thrown up in confused masses: it is not much settled, as the more
southern islands are preferred to it as a residence.

On the 23d, we ascertained the elevation of the highest peak of the
island by triangulation to be three thousand one hundred and twenty-
six feet. The easternmost island of the Palawan Group, Busvagan,
was at the time just in sight from the deck, to the southwest.

It had been my intention to anchor at Ambolou Island; but the wind
died away before we reached it, and I determined to stand off and on

all night-

On the 24th, I began to experience the truth of what Captain
Halcon had asserted, namely, that the existing charts were entirely
worthless, and I also found that my native pilot was of no more value
than they were : he had evidently passed the place before ; but whe-
ther the size of the vessel, so much greater than any he had sailed in,
confused him, or whether it was from his inability to understand and
to make himself understood by us, he was of no use whatever, and we
had the misfortune of running into shoal water, barely escaping the
bottom. These dangers were usually quickly passed, and we soon
found ourselves again floating in thirty or forty fathoms water.

We continued beating to windward, in hopes of being joined by
the Flying-Fish, and I resolved to finish the survey towards the island
of Semarara. We found every thing in a different position from that '
assigned it by any of the chai^ts with which we were furnished- On
this subject, however, I shall not dwell, but refer those who desire
particular information to the charts and Hydrographical Memoir-

Towards evening, I again ran down to the southwest point of the
island of Mindoro, and sent a letter on shore to the pueblo, with
directions to have it put on board the tender, when she should arrive.
We then began to beat round Semarara, in order to pass over towards
Panay.

The southern part of Mindoro is much higher than the northern, but
appears to be equally rough. It is, however, susceptible of cultivation,
and there are many villages along its shores.

Semarara is moderately high, and about fifteen miles in circumfe-
rence ; it is inhabited, and like Mindoro much wooded. According to
the native pilot, its shores are free from shoals* It was not until the next
day that we succeeded in reaching Panay. I determined to pass the
night off Point Potol, the north end of Panay, as I believed the sea in
its neighbourhood to be free of shoals, and wished to resume our
running survey early in the morning.

At daylight on the 27th we continued the survey down the coast of
Panay, and succeeded in correcting many errors in the existing charts

S O O L O O. 325

(

(both English and Spanish). The channel along this side is from
twelve to twenty nniles wide, and suitable for beating in; little current
is believed to exist ; and the tides, as far as our observations went,
seem to be regular and of little strength.

The island of Panay is high and broken, particularly on the
south end ; its shores are thickly settled and well cultivated.. Indigo
and sugar-cane claim much of the attention of the inhabitants.
The Indians are the principal cultivators. They pay to govern-
ment a capitation tax of seven rials. Its population is estimated
at three hundred thousand, which I think is rather short of the actual
number.

On all the hills there are telegraphs of rude construction, to give
information of the approach of piratical prahus from Sooloo, which
formerly w^ere in the habit of making attacks upon the defenceless
inhabitants and carrying them off into slavery. Of late years they
have ceased these depredations, for the Spaniards have resorted -to a
new mode of warfare. Instead of pursuing and punishing ihe offen-

ders, they now intercept all their supphes, both of necessaries and
luxuries ; and the fear of this has had the effect to deter pirates from
their usual attacks.

We remained off* San Pedro for the night, in hopes of falling in with
the Flying-Fish in the morning.

On the morning of the 28th, the Flying-Fish w^as discovered plainly
in sight. I immediately stood for her, fired a gun and made signal.
At seven o'clock, another gun was fired, but the vessel still stood oflf,

r

and was seen to make sail to the westward without paying any regard
w^hatever to either, and being favoured by a breeze while the Vin-
cennes was becalmed, she stole oflf and was soon out of sight.*

After breakfast we opened the bay of Antique, on which is situated
the town of San Jose. As this bay apparently offered anchorage for
vessels bound up this coast, I determined to survey it ; and for this
j purpose the boats were hoisted out and prepared for surveying. Lieu-

tenant Budd was despatched to visit the pueblo called San Jose.

On reaching the bay, the boats were sent to different points of if,
and when they were in station, the ship fired guns to furnish bases
by the sound, and angles w-ere simultaneously measured. The boats
made soundings on their return to the ship, and thus completed this
duty, so that in an hour or two afterwards the bay was correctly
represented on paper. It offers no more than a temporary anchorage

r

* On my arrival at Singapore, this circumstance was investigated by a court of inquiry.
The result showed tiiat Mr. Knox had no knowledge of the Vineennea having heen seen ;

% the officer of the watch had not reported to him the fact

»1 2C

326 S O 0 L O O.

for vessels, and unless the shore is closely approached, the water is
almost too deep for the purpose.

At San Jose a Spanish governor resides, who presides over the two
pueblos of San Pedro and San Jose, and does the duty also of alcalde.
Lieutenant Budd did not see him, as he was absent, but his lady did

F

the honours. Lieutenant Budd represented the pueblo as cleanly "^
and orderly. About fifteen soldiers were seen, who compose the
governor's guard, and more were said to be stationed at San Pedro.
A small fort of eight guns commands the roadstead. The beach was
found to be of fine volcanic sand, composed chiefly of oxide of iron,
and comminuted shells; there is here also a narrow shore reef of
coral. The plain bordering the sea is covered with a dense growth
of cocoa-nut trees. In the fine season the bay is secure, but we were
informed that in westerly and southwesterly gales heavy seas set in,
and vessels are not able to lie at anchor. Several small vessels were
lying in a small river about one and a half miles to the southward of
the pointy on which the fort is situated. The entrance to this river is
very narrow and tortuous.

Panay is one of the largest islands of the group. We had an
opportunity of measuring the height of some of its western peaks or
highlands, none of which exceed three thousand feet. The interior
and eastern side have many lofty summits, which are said to reach an
altitude of seven thousand five hundred feet ; but these, as we passed,
were enveloped in clouds, or shut out from view by the nearer high-
lands. The general features of the island are like those of Luzon and
Mindoro. The few specimens we obtained of its rocks consisted of
the different varieties of talcose formation, with quartz and jasper.
The specimens were of no great value, as they were much worn by
lying on the beach.

The higher land was bare of trees, and had it not been for the

numerous fertile valleys lying between the sharp and rugged spurs,

it w^ould have had a sterile appearance.

The bay of Antique is in latitude 10^ 40' N., longitude 12^ 59'
30" E.

It was my intention to remain for two or three days at a convenient
anchorage to enable us to make short excursions into the interior; but
the vexatious mismanagement of the tender now made it incumbent
that I should make every possible use of the time to complete the
operations connected with the hydrography of this sea; for I perceived

be

both

men to the hazard of contracting disease. I regretted giving up this

I

)

S O O L 0 O. 327

design, not only on my own account and that of the Expedition, but
because of the gratification it would have afforded personally to the
naturalists.

The town of San Jose has about thirty bamboo houses, some of
which are filled in with clay or mortar, and plastered over, both inside
and out. Few of them are more than a single story in height. That
of the governor is of the same material, and overtops the rest; it is
whitewashed, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. In the vicinity
of the town are several beautiful valleys, which run into the mountains
from the plain that borders the bay. The landing is on a bamboo
bridge, which has been erected over an extensive mud-flat, that is
exposed at low water, and prevents any nearer approach of boats-
This bridge is about seven hundred feet in length; and a novel plan
has been adopted to preserve it from being carried away. The stems
of bamboo not being sufficiently large and heavy to maintain the
superstructure in the soft mud, a scaffold is constructed just under the
top, which is loaded with blocks of large stone, and the outer piles are
secured to anchors or rocks, with grass rope. The roadway or top is
ten feet wide, covered with split bamboo, woven together, aiW has
rails on each side, to assist the passenger. This is absolutely neces-
sary for safety; and even with this aid, one unaccustomed to it must
be possessed of no little bodily strength to pass over this smooth, slip-
pery, and springy bridge, without accident

Two pirogues were at anchor in the bay, and on the shore was the
frame of a vessel which had evidently been a long while on the stocks,
for the weeds and bushes near the keel w^ere six or eight feet high, and
a portion of the timbers were decayed. Carts and sleds drawn by
buffaloes were in use, and every thing gave it the appearance of a
thriving village. Although I have mentioned the presence of soldiers,
it was observed on landing that no guard was stationed about or even
at the fort; but shortly afterwards a soldier was seen harrying towards
the latter, in the act of dressing himself in his regimentals, and another
running by his side, with his cartridge-box and musket. In a httle
while one w^as passing up and down on his post, as though he was as
permanent there as the fort itself.

After completing these duties, the light airs detained us the re-
mainder of the day under Panay, in sight of the bay. On the 29th,
at noon, we had been wafted by it far enough In the offing to obtain
the easterly breeze, which soon became strong, with an overcast sky,
and carried us rapidly on our course; my time would not permit my
heaving-to. We kept on our course for Mindanao during the whole

#

328

S O O L O O.

m

night, and were constantly engaged in sounding, with our patent lead,
with from thirty to forty fathoms cast, to prevent our passing over this
part of the sea entirely unexamined-

At daylight on the 31st, we had the island of Mindanao before us,
but did not reach its western cape until 5 p. m. This island is high
and broken, like those to the north of it, but, unlike them, its moun-
tains are covered with forests to their very tops, and there were no
distinct cones of minor dimensions, as we had observed on the others.
If they do exist, they were hidden by the dense forest.

I had determined to anchor at Caldera, a small port on the south-
west side of Mindanao, about ten miles distant from Samboangan,
where the governor resides. The latter is a considerable place, but
the anchorage in its roadstead is said to be bad, and the currents that

run through the Straits of Basillan are represented to be strong. Cal-
dera, on the other hand, has a good, though small anchorage, which
is free from the currents of the straits. It is therefore an excellent stop-
ping-place, in case of the tide proving unfavourable. On one of its points
stands a small fort, which, on our arrival, hoisted Spanish colours.

At fix o'clock we came to anchor at Caldera, in seven fathoms
water. There were few indications of inhabitants, except at and
near the fort An officer was despatched to the fort, to report the
ship. It was found to be occupied by a few soldiers under the com-
mand of a lieutenant.

FORT AT CALDERA.

The fort is about seventy feet square, and is built of large blocks of
red coral, which evidently have not been taken from the vicinity of
the place, as w^as stated by the officers of the fort; for, although our
parties wandered along the alluvial beach for two or three miles in
each direction, no signs of coral were observed. Many fragments of
red, gray, and purple basalt and porphyry were met with along the
beach ; talcose rock and slate, syenite, hornblend, quartz, both com-

I

f

S O O L 0 O. 329

pact and slaty, with chalcedony, were found in pieces and large
pebbles. Those who were engaged in dredging reported the bottom
as being of coral, in from four to six or eight fathoms; but this was
of a different kind from that of which the fort was constructed.

Tiie fort was built in the year 1784, principally for protection
against the Sooloo pirates, who were in the habit of visiting the settle-
ments, and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves, to obtain ransom
for them. This, and others of the same description, were therefore
constructed as places of refuge for the inhabitants, as well as to afford

I . protection to vessels.

Depredations are still committed, which render it necessary to keep
up a small force. One or two huts which w^ere seen in the neighbour-
hood of the bay, are built on posts twenty feet from the ground, and
into them they ascend by ladders, which are hauled up after the occu-
pants have entered.

These, it is said, are the sleeping-huts, and are so built for the
purpose of preventing surprise at night. Before our arrival we had
heard that the villages were all so constructed, but a visit to one soon
showed that this was untrue. The natives seen at the village were
thought to be of a decidedly lighter colour and a somewhat different
expression from the Malays. They were found to be very civil, and

more polished in manners than our gentlemen expected. On asking
for a drink of water, it was brought in a glass tumbler on a china
plate. An old woman, to whom they had presented some trifles, took
the trouble to meet them in another path on their return, ^nd insisted
on their accepting a basket of potatoes. Some of the houses contained
several families, and many of them had no ©ther means of entrance
than a notched post stuck up to the door.

The forests of Mindanao contain a great variety of trees, some of
which are of large size, rising to the height of one hundred and
one hundred and fifty feet. Some of their trunks are shaped like but-
tresses, similar to those before spoken of at Manilla, from which they
obtain broad slabs for the tops of tables. The trunks were observed
to shoot up remarkably straight. Our botanical gentlemen, though
pleased with the excursion, w^ere disappointed at not being able to
procure specimens from the lofty trees; and the day was less pro-
ductive in this respect than they had anticipated. Large woody vines
were common, which enveloped the trunks of trees in their folds, and
ascending to their tops, prevented the collection of the most desirable

specimens.

The paths leading to the interior were narrow and much obstructed:

one fine stream was crossed. Many buffaloes were observed waU

VOL. V. ^ ^ ^ 42

330 SOOLOO.

lowing in the mire, and the woods swarmed with monkeys and
numbers of birds, among them the horn-bills : these kept up a con-
tinued chatter, and made a variety of loud noises. The forests here
are entirely different from any we had seen elsewhere ; and the stories
of their being the abode of large boas and poisonous snakes, make
the effect still greater on those who visit them for the first time.
Our parties, however, saw nothing of these reptiles, nor any thing to
warrant a belief that such exist. Yet the officer at the fort related
to me many snake stories that seemed to have some foundation ; and
by inquiries made elsewhere, I learned that they were at least w^ar-
ranted by some facts, though probably not to the extent that he re-
presented.

Traces of deer and wdld hogs were seen, and many birds were ob-
tained, as well as land and sea shells. Among the latter was the Mal-
leus vulgaris, w^hich is used as food by the natives. The soil on this
part of the island is a stiff clay, and the plants it produces are mostly
woody ; those of an herbaceous character were scarce, and only a few
orchideous epiphytes and ferns were seen. Around the dwellings in
the villages were a variety of vegetables and fruits, consisting of
sugar-cane, sweet-potato, gourds, pumpkins, peppers, rice, water and
mdusk melons, all fine and of large size.

The officer at the fort was a lieutenant of infantry ; one of that rank
is stationed here for a month, after which he, with the garrison, con-
sisting of three soldiers, are relieved, from Samboangan, where the
Spaniards have three companies.

Samboangan is a convict settlement, to which the native rogues,
principally thieves, are sent. The Spanish criminals, as I have before
stated in speaking of Manilla, are sent to Spain.

The inhabitants of the island of Mindanao who are under the sub-
jection of Spain, are about ten thousand in number, of whom five or
six thousand are at or in the neighbourhood of Samboangan. The
original inhabitants, wl)o dwell in the mountains and on the east coast,
are said to be quite black, and are represented to be a very cruel and
bad set ; they have hitherto bid defiance to all attempts to subjugate
them. When the Spaniards make excursions into the interior, which
is seldom, they always go in large parties on account of the wild
beasts, serpents, and hostile natives ; nevertheless, the latter frequently
attack and drive them back.

The little fort is considered as a sufficient protection for the fisher-
men and small vessels against the pirates, who inhabit the island of
Basillan, which is in sight from Mindanao, and forms the southern
side of the straits of the same name. It is said that about seven

S O O L O O. 331

«

»

1

hundred inhabit it. The name of Moor is given by the Spaniards to
all those who profess the Mohammedan religion, and by such all the
islands to the west of Mindanao, and know^n under the name of the
Sooloo Archipelago, are inhabited.

The day we spent at Caldera was employed in surveying the bay,
and in obtaining observations for its geographical position, and for
magnetism. The flood tide sets to the northward and westward,
through the straits, and the ebb to the eastward. In the bay we found
it to run tw^o miles an hour by the log, but it must be much more rapid
in the straits.

At daylight on the 1st of February, we got under way to stand
over for the Sangboys, a small island with two sharp hills on it. One
and a half miles from the bay we passed over a bank, the least water
on which was ten fathoms on a sandy bottom, and on which a vessel
might anchor. The wind shortly after failed us, and we drifted with
the tide for some hours, in full view of the island of Mindanao, w^hich
is bold and picturesque. We had thus a good opportunity of mea-
suring some of its mountain ranges, which we made about three thou-
sand feet high.

In the afternoon, a light breeze came from the southwest, and before
sunset I found that we were again on soundings. As soon as we had
a cast of tw^enty fathoms, 1 anchored for the night, judging it much
better than to be drifting about w^ithout any knowledge of the locality
and currents to w^hich w^e were subjected.

On the morning of the 2d, we got under way to proceed to the

westward. As the bottom was unequal, I determined to pass through
the broadest channel, although it had the appearance of being the
shoalest, and sent two boats ahead to sound. In this way we passed
through, continuing our surveying operations, and at the same time
made an attempt to dredge ; but the ground was too uneven for the
latter purpose, and little of value w^as obtained.

Shortly after passing the Sangboys, we had the island of Sooloo in
sight, for which I now steered direct. At sunset we found ourselves
within five or six miles of Soung Harbour; but there was not sufficient
light to risk the dangers that might be in our course, nor wind enough
to command the ship; and having no bottom where we were, I deter-
mined again to run out to sea, and anchor on the first bank I should
nieet. At half-past eight o'clock, we struck sounding in twenty-six

fathoms, and anchored.

At daylight we determined our position by angles, and found it to
correspond with part of the route we had passed over the day before,
and that w^e were about fifteen miles firom the laro^e island of Sooloo.

332 S O O L O 0.

Weighing anchor, we were shortly wafted by the westerly tide and a
light air towards that beautiful island, which lay in the midst of its^
little archipelago; and as we were brought nearer and nearer, we
came to the conclusion that in our many wanderings we had seen
nothing to be compared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to be

well cultivated, with gentle slopes rising here and there into eminences
from one to two thousand feet high. One or two of these might be
dignified with the name of mountains, and were sufficiently high to
arrest the passing clouds; on the afternoon of our arrival we had a
singular example in the dissipation of a thunder-storm.

Although much of the island was under cultivation, yet it had all the
freshness of a forest region. The many smokes on the hills, buildings
of large size, cottages, and cultivated spots, together with the moving
crowds on the land, the prahus, canoes, and fishing-boats on the water,
gave the whole a civilized appearance. Our own vessel lay, almost
without a ripple at her side, on the glassy surface of the sea, carried
onwards to our destined anchorage by the flowing tide, and scarce a
sound was heard except the splashing of the lead as it sought the
bottom. The eflfect of this was destroyed in part by the knowledge
that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a cruel and barbarous
race of pirates. Towards sunset we had nearly reached the bay of
Soung, when we were met by the opposing tide, which frustrated all
OUT endeavours to reach it, and I was compelled to anchor, lest we
should again be swept to sea-

As soon as the night set in, fishermen's lights were seen moving along

the beach in all directions, and gliding about in canoes, while the sea
was filled with myriads of phosphorescent animalcula. After watching
this scene for two or three hours in the calm and still night, a storm
that had been gathering reached us ; but it lasted only for a short time,
and cleared off after a shower, which gave the air a freshness that
was delightful after the sultry heat we had experienced during the day.
• The canoes of this archipelago were found to be diflferent from any

that we had heretofore seen, not only in
shape, but in making use of a double out-
rigger, which consequently must give them
additional security. The paddle also is of
a different shape, and has a blade at each
end, which are used ahernately, thus
enabling a single person to manage them with ease. These canoes
are made of a single log, though some are built upon. They seldom

SECTION.

p carry more than two persons. The figure on the opposite page will

give a correct idea of one of them.

I

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P— JT

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1

I

S O O L O O,

333

k
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i

We saw the fishermen engaged in trolling and using the line; but
the manner of taking fish which has been heretofore described is
chiefly practised. In fishing, as w^ell as in all their other employ-
ments, the kris and spear were invariably by their side.

SOOLOO CAXOI.

The next morning at eight o'clock we got under way, and were
towed by our boats into the bay of Soung, where we anchored off the
town in nine fiithoms water. While in the act of doing so, and after
our intentions had become too evident to admit of a doubt, the Sultan
graciously sent off a message giving us permission to enter his port.

Lieutenant Budd was immediately despatched wuth the interpreter
to call upon the Datu Mulu or governor, and to learn at what hour
we could see the Sultan. When the officer reached the town, all
were found asleep; and after remaining four hours waiting, the only
answer he could get out of the Datu Mulu was, that he supposed that
the Sultan would be awake at three o'clock, w^hen he thought I could
see him.

During this time the boats had been prepared for surveying; and

after landing the naturalists, they began the work-

At the appointed time, Captain Hudson and myself went on shore
to wait upon the Sultan. On our approach to the town, we found

that a great proportion of it was built ov^er the water on piles, and

only connected with the shore by narrow bridges of bamboo. The
style of building in Sooloo does not differ materially from that of the
Malays. The houses are rather larger, and they surpass the others
in filth.

KOL'SES AT SOUNG.

We passed for some distance between the bridges to the landing,

334 S 0 O L O O.

and on our way saw several piratical prahus apparently laid up.
Twenty of these were counted, of about thirty tons burden, evidently
built for sea-vessels, and capable of mounting one or two long guns.
We landed at a small streamlet, and walked a short distance to the
Datu's house, which is of large dimensions and rudely built on piles
which raise it about six feet above the ground, and into which we
were invited. The house of the Datu contains one room, part of
which is screened off to form the apartment of his wife. Nearly in
the centre is a raised dais, eight or ten feet square, under which are
stowed all his valuables, packed in chests and Chinese trunks. Upon
this dais are placed mats for sleeping, with cushions, pillows, &c.; and
over it is a sort of canopy, hung around with fine chintz or muslin.

The dais was occupied by the Datu, who is, next to the Sultan, the
greatest man of this island. He at once came from it to receiv^e us,
and had chairs provided for us near his sanctum. After we were
seated, he again retired to his lounge. The Datu is small in person,
and emaciated in form, but has a quick eye and an intelligent counte-
nance. He lives, as he told me, with all his goods around him, and
they formed a collection such as I could scarcely imagine it possible
to bring together in such a place- The interior put me in mind of a
barn inhabited by a company of strolling players. On one side were
hung up a collection of various kinds of gay dresses, here drums and
gongs, there swords, lanterns, spears, muskets, and small cannon ; on
another side were shields, bucklers, masks, saws, and wheels, with
belts, bands, and long robes. The whole was a strange mixture of
tragedy and farce; and the group of natives were not far removed in
appearance from the supernumeraries that a Turkish tragedy might
have brought together in the green-room of a theatre- A set of more
cowardly-looking miscreants I never saw. They appeared ready
either to trade with us, pick our pockets, or cut our throats, as an
opportunity might offer.

The wife's apartment was not remarkable for its comforts, although
the Datu spoke of it with much consideration, and evidently held his
better half in high estimation. He was also proud of his six children,
the youngest of whom he brought out in its nurse's arms, and exhibited
with much pride and satisfaction. He particularly drew my attention
to its little highly-wrought and splendidly-mounted kris, which was
stuck through its girdle, as an emblem of his rank. He was in reality
a fine-looking child. The kitchen was behind the house, and occupied
but a small space, for they have little in the way of food that requires
nauch preparation. The house of the Datu might justly be termed

r

nastv.

S 0 O L O O. 335

[f

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We now learned the reason why the Sultan could not be seen: it
was Friday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, and he had been at the mosque
from an early hour. Lieutenant Budd had been detained, because it
was not known when he would finish his prayers; and the ceremonies
of the day were more important than usual, on account of its peculiar
sanctity in their calendar.

Word had been sent off to the ship that the Sultan was ready to
receive me, but the messenger passed us while on our way to the
shore. After we had been seated for a while, the Datu asked if we
were ready to accompany him to see the Sultan; but intimated that
no one but Captain Hudson and myself could be permitted to lay eyes
on him. Being informed that we were, he at once, and in pur pre-
sence, slipped on his silken trousers, and a new jacket, covered with
bell-buttons ; put on his slippers, strapped himself round with a long
silken net sash, into which he stuck his kris, and, with umbrella in
hand,: said he was ready. He now led the way out of his house,
leaving the motley group behind, and we took the path to the interior
of the town, towards the Sultan's. The Datu and I w^alked hand in
hand, on a roadway* about ten feet wide, with a small stream running
on each side. Captain Hudson and the interpreter came next, and a
guard of six trusty slaves brought up the rear.

When we reached the outskirts of the town, about half a mile from
the Data's, we came to the Saltan's residence, where he- was prepared
to receive us in state. His house is constructed in the same manner
as that of the Datu, but is of larger dimensions, and the piles are rather
. higher. Instead of steps, we found a ladder, rudely constructed of
bamboo, and very crazy. This was so steep that it w^as necessary to
use the hands in mounting it. I understood that the ladder was always
removed in the night, for the sake of security. We entered at once
into the presence-chamber, where the whole divan, if such it may be
called, sat in arm-chairs, occupying the half of a large round table,
covered with a white cotton cloth. On the opposite side of the table,
seats were placed for us. On our approach, the Sultan and all his
council rose, and motioned us to our seats. When we had taken
them, the part of the room behind us was literally crammed, with
well-armed men. A few minutes were passed in silence, during
which time we had an opportunity of looking at each other, and
i around the hall in which we w^ere seated- The latter ^vas of very

common workmanship, and exhibited no signs of oriental magnifi-
cence. Overhead hung a printed cotton cloth, forming a kind of
1 tester, w^hich covered about half of the apartment; In other places

the roof and rafters were visible. A part of the house was roughly

I
*

,1

i7

836 S O O L 0 O.

partitioned off, to the height of nine or ten feet, enclosing, as 1 was
afterwards told, the Suhan's sleeping apartment, and that appropriated
to his wife and her attendants.

The Sultan is of the middle height, spare and thin ; he was dressed
in a white cotton shirt, loose trousers of the same material, and slip-
pers ; he had no stockings ; the bottom of his trousers was worked in
scollops with blue silk, and this was the only ornament I saw about
him. On his head he wore a small coloured cotton handkerchief,
wound into a turban, that just covered the top of his head. His eyes
were bloodshot, and had an uneasy wild look, showing that he was
under the effects of opium, of which they all smoke large quantities.
His teeth w^ere as black as ebony, which, with his bright cherry-
coloured lips,* contrasted with his swarthy skin, gave him any thing
but a pleasant look.

On the left hand of the Sultan sat his two sons, while his right was
occupied by his councillors; just behind him, sat the carrier of his
betel-nut casket. The casket was of filigree silver, about the size of a
small tea-caddy, of oblong shape, and rounded at the top. It had
three divisions, one for the leaf, another for the nut, and a third for the
lime. Next to this official was the pipe-bearer, who did not appear to
be held in such estimation as the former.

I opened the conversation by desiring that the Datu would explain
the nature of our visit, and tell the Sultan that I had come to make
the treaty which he had some time before desired to form with the
United States.f

The Sultan replied, that such was still his desire ; upon which I
told him, I would draw one up for him, that same day. While I w^as
explaining to him the terms, a brass candlestick was brought in with
a lighted tallow candle, of a very dark colour, and rude shape, that
showed but little art in the manufacture. This was placed in the
centre of the table, with a plate of Manilla cigars. None of them,
however, were offered to us, nor any kind of refreshment.

Our visit lasted nearly an hour. When we arose to take our leave,
the Sultan and his divan did the same, and we made our exit with low
bows on each side.

I looked upon it as a matter of daily occurrence for all those who
came to the island to visit the Sultan : but the Datu Mulu took erreat

* Chewing the betel-nut and pepper-leaf also produces this effect, and is carried to a great
extent among these islanders.

formed

that he wished to encourage our trade, and to see tlie vessels of the United States coming to
his port

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pains to make me believe that a great favour had been granted in
allowing us a sight of his ruler. On the other hand, I dwelt upon the
condescension it was on my part to visit him, and I refused to admit
that I was under any gratitude or obligation for the sight of His
Majesty the Sultan Mohammed Damaliel Kisand, but said that he
might feel grateful to me if he signed the treaty I would prepare for
him.

On our return from the Sultan's to the Datu Mulu's house, we found
even a greater crowd than before. The Datu, however, contrived to
get us seats. The attraction which drew it together w^as to look at
Mr. Agate, who was taking a sketch of Mohammed Polalu, the Sul-
tan's son, and next heir to the throne. I had hoped to procure one of
the Sultan, but this was declared to be impossible. The son, how-
ever, has all the characteristics of the Sooloos, and the likeness was
thought an excellent one. Mohammed Polalu is about twenty-three
years of age, of a tall slender figure, with a long face, heavy and dull
eyes, as though he was constantly under the influence of opium. So
much, indeed, was he addicted to the use of this drug, even according
to the Datu Mulu's accounts, that his strenorth and constitution were

o

very much impaired. As he is kept particularly under the guardian-
ship of the Datu, the latter has a strong interest in preserving this
influence over him, and seems on this account to afford him every
opportunity of indulging in this deplorable habit.

During our visit, the effects of a pipe of this drug was seen upon
him; for but a short time after he had reclined himself on the Datu's
couch and cushion, and taken a few whiffs, he was entirely overcome,
stupid, and listless. I had never seen any one so young, bearing
such evident marks of the effects of this deleterious drug. When but
partially recovered from its effects he called for his betel-nut, to revive
him by its exciting effects. This was carefully chewed by his atten-
dant to a proper consistency, moulded in a ball about the size of a
walnut, and then slipped into the mouth of the heir apparent.

One of the requests I had made of the Sultan was, that the officers
might have guides to pass over the island. This was at once said to
be too dangerous to be attempted, as the datus of the interior and
southern towns would in all probability attack the parties. I under-
stood what this meant, and replied that I was quite willing to take the
responsibility, and that the party should be well armed. To this the
^ Sultan replied, that he would not risk his own men. This I saw was

a mere evasion, but it was difficult and would be dangerous for our
gentlemen to proceed alone, and I therefore said no more. On our
return to the Datu's, I gave them permission to get as far from the

vox- V.

2D 43

338 S O O L O O.

beach as they could, but I was afterwards infoni-ied by them that in
endeavouring to penetrate into the woods, they were always stopped
by armed men. This was also the case w^hen they approached parti-
cular parts of the town, but they were not molested as long as their
rambles were confined to the beach. At the Datu's we were treated
to chocolate and negus in gilt-edged tumblers, wdlh small stale cakes,

M

Mr

his bowie-knife pistol, which he had for a moment laid down on a
chest. I at once came to the conclusion that it had been stolen, and as
the theft had occurred in the Datu's house, I determined to hold him
responsible for it, and gave him at once to understand that I should do
so, informing him that the pistol must be returned before the next
morning, or he must lake the consequences. This threw him into some
consternation, and by my manner he felt that I was serious-
Captain Hudson and myself, previous to our return on board, visited
the principal parts of the town. The Chinese quarter is separated by a
body of water, and has a gateway that leads to a bridge. The bridge
is covered by a roof, and on each side of it are small shops, which are
open in front, and thus expose the goods they contain. In the rear of the
shops w^ere the dwellings of the dealers- This sort of bazaar contained
but a very scanty assortment, and the goods were of inferior quality.

We visited some blacksmith-shops, where they were manufacturing
krlses and spears. These shops were open sheds; the fire was made
upon the ground, and two wooden cylinders, whose valves were in the
bottom, served for bellows ; when used, they had movable pistons, which
were worked by a man on an elevated seat, and answered the purpose
better than could have been expected.

The kris is a weapon in which this people take great pride; it is of
various shapes and sizes, and is invariably worn from infancy to old
age; they are generally wavy in their blades, and are worn in wooden
scabbards, which are neatly made and highly polished. This weapon
Is represented in the tail-piece to this chapter.

The market was well stocked with fruit and fish. Among the former
ibe durian seemed to predominate; this was the first time we had seen
it. It has a very disagreeable odour, as if decayed, and appears to
emit a sulphuretted hydrogen gas, w^hich I observed blackened silver.
Some have described this fruit as delicious, but if the smell is not
enough, the taste in my opinion will convince any one of the contrary.
3Ir. Brackenridge made the following list of their fruits : Durian,
Artocarpus integrifolia, Melons, wafer and musk. Oranges, mandarin
and bitter. Pine-annles. Carica oanava, Mansrosteen. Bread-fruit. Cocoa

p

I

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S O 0 L O 0. 339

and Betel-nut. The vegetables were capsicums, cucumbers, yams,
sweet-potatoes, garlic, onions, edible fern-roots, and radishes of the
salmon variety, but thicker and more acrid in flavour.

In walking about the parts of the town we were permitted to enter,
large slabs of cut granite were seen, which were presumed to be from
China, where the walls of canals or streamlets are lined with it. But
Dr. Pickering in his rambles discovered pieces that had been cut as if
to form a monument, and remarked a difference between it and the
Chinese kind. On one or two pieces he saw the mark No. 1, in black
paint ; the material resembled the Chelmsford granite, and it occurred
to him that the stone had been cut in Boston.* I did not hear of this
circumstance until after we had left Sooloo, and have little doubt now
that the interdiction against our gentlemen visiting some parts of the
town was owing to the fear they had of the discovery of this plunder.
This may have been the reason why they so readily complied with my
demands, in order to get rid of us as soon as possible, feeling them-
selves guilty, and being unprepared for defence; for, of the numerous
guns mounted, few if any were serviceable.

The theft of the pistol was so barefaced an affair, that I made up my
P mind to insist on its restoration. At the setting of the watch in the

evening, it had been our practice on board the Vincennes to fire a
small brass howitzer. This frequently, in the calm evenings, produced

^
f

a great reverberation, and rolled along the w^ater to the surrounding
islands with considerable noise. Instead of it, on this evening, I
ordered one of the long guns to be fired, believing that the sound and
reverberation alone would suffice to intimidate such robbers. One was
accordingly fired in the direction of the town, which fairly shook the
island, as they said, and it was not long before we saw that the rogues
were fully aroused, for the clatter of gongs and voices that came over
the water, and the motion of lights, convinced me that the pistol would
be forthcoming in the morning. In this I was not mistaken, for at
early daylight I was awakened by a special messenger from the Datu
to tell me that the pistol was found, and would be brought off without
delay; that he had been searching for it all night, and had at last suc-
ceeded in finding it, as well as the thief, on whom he intended to inflict
the bastinado. Accordingly, in a short time the pistol was delivered
on board, and every expression of friendship and good-will given, with
the strongest assurances that nothing of the kind should happen again-

* Since our return, inquiries have been made by him, which resulted in proving that such
was in truth their origin, and that the vessel in which they were shipped was for a long
time missing. The identical stones which he saw were a part of a monument that was
on its way to Canton.

i

340 S O O L O O.

As our naturalists could have no opportunity of rambling over the
island of Sooloo, it was thought that one of the neighbouring islands
(although not so good a field) would afford them many of the same
resuhs, and that they could examine it unmolested. Accordingly, at an
early hour, they were despatched in boats for that purpose, with a
sufficient guard to attend them in case of necessity. The island on
which they landed is called Marongas on the map of the group annexed
to this chapter. On it are two hills of volcanic conglomerate and
vesicular lava, containing angular fragments embedded. The bottom
w^as covered wath living coral, of every variety, and of different colours ;
but there was nothing like a regular coral shelf, and the beach was
composed of bits of coral intermixed with dead shells, both entire and
comminuted. The centre of the island was covered with mangrove-
bushes; the hills were cones, but had no craters on them. The man-
groves had grown in clusters, giving the appearance of a number of
small islets. This, with the neighbouring islands, were thought to be

composed in a great part of coral, but it was impossible for our
gentlemen to determine the fact.

The day was exceedingly hot, and the island was suffering to such
a degree from drought that the leaves in many cases were curled and
appeared dry. On the face of the rocky chff they saw many swallows
(hirundo esculenta) flying in and out of the caverns facing the sea ;
hut they were not fortunate enough to find any of the edible nests, so
much esteemed by Chinese epicures.

At another part of the island they heard the crowing of a cock, and
discovered a small village, almost hidden by the mangroves, and built
over the water. In the neighbourhood were several fish-baskets set out
to dry, as well as a quantity of fencing for weirs, all made of rattan.
Their shape was somewhat peculiar. After a little while the native
fishermen were seen approaching, who evidently had a knowledge of
their visit from the first. They came near with great caution in their
canoes; but after the first had spoken and reconnoitred, several others
landed, exhibiting no signs of embarrassment, and soon motioned our
party off. To indicate that force w^ould be resorted to, in case of
refusal, at the same time they pointed to their arms, and drew their
krises. Our gentlemen took this all in good part, and, after dispensing
a few trifling presents among them, began their retreat with a conve-
nient speed, without, how-ever, compromising their dignity.

The excursion had been profitable in the way of collections, having
yielded a number of specimens of shrubs and trees, both in flower and
fruit; but owing to the drought, the herbaceous plants were, for the
most part, dried up. Among the latter, however, they saw a large and

S O O L O 0.

341

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fine terrestrial species of Epidendrum, whose stem grew to the height
of several feet, and when surmounted by its flowers reached twelve or
fifteen feet high. Many of the salt-marsh plants seen in the Feejees,
were also observed here. Besides the plants, some shells and a beautiful
cream-coloured pigeon were obtained.

During the day we were busily engaged in the survey of the
harbour, and in making astronomical and raagnetical observations on
the beach, while some of the officers were employed purchasing curi-
osities, on shore, at the town, and alongside the ship. These consisted
of krises, spears, shields, and shells; and the Sooloos were not slow in
comprehending the kind of articles w^e w^ere in search of.

Few if any of the Sooloos can write or read, though many talk
Spanish- Their accounts ai'e all kept by the slaves. Those who can
read and w^rite are, in consequence, highly prized. All the accounts of
the Datu of Soung are kept in Dutch, by a young Malay from Ternate,
who writes a good hand, and speaks English, and whom we found
exceedingly useful to us. He is the slave of the Datu, who employs him
for this purpose only. He told us he was captured in a brig by the
pirates of Basillan, and sold here as a slave, where he is likely to
remain for life, although he says the Datu has promised to give him his
freedom after ten years.

Horses, cows, and buffaloes are the beasts of burden, and a Sooloo
may usually be seen riding either one or the other, armed cap-a-pie,

with kris, spear, and target, or shield.

\

SOOLOO RIDING.

They use saddles cut out of solid wood, and many ride with their
stirrups so short chat they bring the knees very high, and the riders

2D2

342 S O O L O O.

1

look more like well-grown monkeys than mounted men. The cows
and buffaloes are guided by a piece of thong, through the cartilage of
the nose. By law, no swine are allowed to be kept on the island, and
if they are bought, they are immediately killed. The Chinese are
obliged to raise and kill their pigs very secretly, when they desire that
species of food ; for, notwithstanding the law and the prejudices of the
inhabitants, the former continue to keep swine.

The inhabitants of Sooloo are a tall, thin, and effeminate-looking
race: I do not recollect to have seen one corpulent person among
them. Their faces are peculiar for length, particularly in the lower
jaw and chin, with high cheek-bones, sunken, lack-lustre eyes, and
narrow foreheads- Their heads are thinly covered with hair, which
appears to be kept closely cropped- I was told that they pluck out
their beards, and dye their teeth black with antimony, and some file
them.

V

Their eyebrows appear to be shaven, forming a very regular and
high arch, which they esteem a great beauty.

The dress of the common people is very like that of the Chinese,
with loose and full sleeves, without buttons. The materials of which
it is made are grass-cloths, silks, satins, or white cotton, from China*
I should judge from the appearance of their persons, that they ought
to be termed, so far as ablutions go, a cleanly people- There is no
outward respect or obeisance shown by the slave to his master, nor is
the presence of the Datu, or even of the Sultan himself, held in any
awe. All appear upon an equality, and there does not seem to be any
controlling power ; yet it may be at once perceived that they are
suspicious and jealous of strangers.

The Sooloos, although they are ready to do any thing for the sake
of plunder, even to the taking of life, yet are not disposed to hoard

their ill-gotten wealth, and, with all their faults, cannot be termed
avaricious.

They have but few qualities to redeem their treachery, cruelty, and
revengeful dispositions ; and one of the principal causes of their being
so predominant, or even of their existence, is their inordinate lust for
power. When they possess this, it is accompanied by a haughty, con-
sequential, and ostentatious bravery. No greater affront can be offered
to a Sooloo, than to underrate his dignity and official consequence.
Such an insult is seldom forgiven, and never forcrotten. From one
who has made numerous voyages to these islands, I have obtained
many of the above facts, and my ow^n observation assures me that this
view of their character is a correct one. I would, however, add
another trait, which is common among them, and that is cowardice,

>

I

S O O L O O. 343

which is obvious, in spite of their boasted prowess and daring. This
trait of character is universally ascribed to them among the Spaniards
in the Philippines, who ought to be well acquainted with them.

The dress of the women is not unlike that of the men in appearance,

j They wear close jackets of various colours w^hen they go abroad, and

the same loose breeches as the men, but over them they usually have
a large wrapper (sarong), not unlike the pareu of the Polynesian

^ islanders, which is put round them like a petticoat, or thrown over the

shoulders. Their hair is drawn to the back of the head, and around
the forehead it is shaven in the form of a regular arch, to correspond
with the eyebrows. Those that I saw at the Sultan's were like the
Malays, and had light complexions, with very black teeth. The Datu
thought them' very handsohie, and on our return he asked me if I had
seen the Sultan's beauties. The females of Sooloo have the reputation
of ruling their lords, and possess much "weight in the government by
the influence they exert over their husbands.

It may be owing to this that there is little jealousy of their wives,
who are said to hold their" virtues in no very great estimation. In
their houses they are but scantily clothed, though women of rank have

I always a large number of rings on their fingers, some of which are

of great value, as W' ell as earrings of fine gold. They wear no stock-
ings, but have on Chinese slippers, or Spanish shoes. They are as
capable of governing as their husbands, and in many cases more so,
as they associate with the slaves, from whom they obtain some know-
ledge of Christendom, and of the habits and customs of other nations,
which they study to imitate in every way.

The mode in which the Sooloos employ their time may be exem-

\ plified by giving that of the Datu; for all, whether free or slave,

i endeavour to imitate the higher rank as far as is in their power. The

datus seldom rise before eleven o'clock, unless they have some parti-
cular business; and the Datu Mulu complained of being sleepy in

^ consequence of the early hour at which we had disturbed him.

"^ On rising, they have chocolate served in gilt glassware, with some

light biscuit, and sweetmeats imported from China or Manilla, of
which they informed me they laid in large supplies. They then
lounge about their houses, transacting a little business, and playing

\ at various games, or, in the trading season, go to the meeting of the

Ruma Bechara.

At sunset they take their principal meal, consisting of stews of fish,
poultry, beef, eggs, and rice, prepared somewhat after the Chinese and
Spanish modes, mixed up with that of the Malay. Although Moslems,
they do not forego the use of wine, and some are said to indulge in it

344 SOOLOO.

to a great extent. After sunset, when the air has become somewhat
cooled by the refreshing breezes, they sally forth attended by their
retainers to take a walk, or proceed to the bazaars to purchase goods,
or to sell or to barter away their articles of produce. They then pay
visits to their friends, when they are in the habit of having frequent
convivial parties, talking over their bargains, smoking cigars, drinking
wine and liqueurs, tea, coffee, and chocolate, and indulging in their
favourite pipe of opium. At times they are entertained with music,
both vocal and instrumental, by their dependants. Of this art they
appear to be very fond, and there are many musical instruments
among them. A datu, indeed, would be looked upon as uneducated if
he could not play on some instrument.

It is considered polite that when refreshments are handed they
should be partaken of. Those offered us by the Datu were such as
are usual, but every thing was stale. Of fruit they are said to be
very fond, and can afford to indulge themselves in any kinds. With
all these articles to cloy the appetite, only one set meal a day is taken;
though the poorer classes, fishermen and labourers, partake of two.

The government of the Sooloo Archipelago is a kind of oligarchy,
and the supreme authority is vested in the Sultan and the Ruma
Bechara or trading council. This consists of about twenty chiefs,
either datus, or their next in rank, called orangs, who are governors
of towns or detached provinces. The influence of the individual
chiefs depends chiefly upon the number of their retainers or slaves,
and the force they can bring into their service when they require it.
These are purchased from the pirates, who bring them to Sooloo and
its dependencies for sale. The slaves are employed in a variety of
ways, as in trading prahus, in the pearl and biche de mar fisheries,
and in the search after the edible birds'-nests.

A few are engaged in agriculture, and those who are at all educated
are employed as clerks. These slaves are not denied the right of
holding property, which they enjoy during their lives, but at their
death it reverts to the master. Some of them are quite rich, and what
may appear strange, the slaves of Sooloo are invariably better off than
the untitled freemen, who are at all times the prey of the hereditary
datus, even of those who hold no official stations. By all accounts
these constitute a large proportion of the population, and it being
treason for any low-born freeman to injure or maltreat a datu, the
latter, who are of a haughty, overbearing, and tyrannical disposition,
seldom keep themselves within bounds in their treatment of their in-
feriors. The consequence is, the lower class of freemen are obliged
to put themselves under the protection of some particular datu, which

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S O O L O O. 345

guards them from the encroachment of others. The chief to whom
they thus attach themselves, is induced to treat them well, in order to
retain their services, and attach them to his person, that he may, in
case of need, be enabled to defend himself from depredations, and the
violence of his neighbours.

Such is the absence of legal restraint, that all find it necessary to go
abroad armed, and accompanied by a trusty set of followers, who are
also armed. This is the case both by day and night, and, according
to the Datu's account, frequent affrays take place in the open streets,
which not unfrequently end in bloodshed-
Caution is never laid aside, the only law that exists being that of
force; but the weak contrive to balance the power of the strong by
uniting. They have not only contentions and strife among themselves,
but it w^as stated at Manilla that the mountaineers of Sooloo, w^ho are
said to be Christians, occasionally make inroads upon them. At Soo-
loo, how^ever, it did not appear that they were under much apprehen-
sion of these attacks. The only fear I heard expressed was by the
Sultan, in my interview with him ; and the cause of this, as I have
already stated, was probably a desire to find an excuse for not afford-
ing us facilities to go into the interior. Within twenty years, however,
the reigning sultan has been obliged to retire within his forts, in the
town of Sooloo, which I have before adverted to.

These people are hostile to the Sooloos of the coast and towns, who
take every opportunity to rob them of their cattle and property, for
which the mountaineers seek retaliation when they have an opportu-
nity- From the manner in which the Datu spoke of them, they are
not much regarded. Through another source I learned that the moun-
taineers were Papuans, and the original inhabitants of the islands,
who pay tribute to the Sultan, and have acknowledged his authority,
ever since they were converted \o Islamism. Before that time they-
were considered extremely ferocious, and whenever it was practicable
^ they were destroyed. Others speak of an original race of Dyacks in

the interior, but there is one circumstance to satisfy me that there is
no confidence to be placed in this account, namely, that the island is
not of sufficient extent to accommodate so numerous a population as

some ascribe to it.
\ The forts consist of a double row of piles, filled in with coral blocks.

That situated on the east side of the small stream may be said to
mount a few^ guns, but these are altogether inefficient; and in another,
on the west side, which is rather a rude embankment than a fort, there
are some twelve or fifteen pieces of large calibre ; but I doubt very

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VOL. V.

44

346 S O O L O O.

much if they had been fired off for years, and many of the houses
built upon the water would require to be pulled down before these
guns could be brought to bear upon any thing on the side of the bay,
supposing them to be in a good condition; a little farther to the east
of the town, I was informed they had a kind of stockade, but none of
us w^ere permitted to see it.

According to our estimates, and the information we received while
at Sooloo, the island itself does not contain more than thirty thousand
inhabitants, of which the town of Soung may have six or seven thou-
sand. The whole group may number about one hundred and thirty
thousand. I am aware, however, that it is difficult to estimate the
population of a half-civilized people, who invariably exaggerate their
own strength ; and visiters are likewnse prone to do the same thing.
The Chinese comprise about an eighth of the population of the town,
and are generally of the lower class. They are constantly busy at
their trades, and intent upon making money.

At Soung, business seems active, and all, slaves as well as masters,
seem to engage in it. The absence of a strong government leaves all
at liberty to act for themselves, and the Ruma Bechara gives unlimited
freedom to trade. These circumstances promote the industry of the
community, and even that of the slave, for he too, as before observed,
has a life interest in what he earns.

Soung being the residence of the Sultan, as well as the grand depot
for all piratical goods, is probably more of a mart than any of the
surrounding towns. In the months of March and April it is visited by
several Chinese junks, who remain trading until the besjinning of the

month of August. If delayed after that time, they can scarcely return
in safety, being unable to contend with the boisterous weather and
head winds that then prevail in the Chinese seas. These junks are
said to come chiefly from Amoy, where the cottons, &c., best suited for
the Sooloos are made. Their cargoes consist of a variety of articles
of Chinese manufacture and produce, such as silk, satin goods, cottons,
red and checked, grass-cloth clothing, handkerchiefs, cutlery, guns,
ammunition, opium, lumber, china and glass-ware, rice, sugar, oil,
lard, and butter. In return for this merchandise they obtain camphor,
birds'-nests, rattans, biche de mar, pearls and pearl-shells, cocoa, tor-
toise-shell, and wax ; but there is no great quantity of these articles to
oe obtained, perhaps not more than tw^o or three cargoes during the
season. The trade requires great knowledge of the articles purchased,
for the Chinese and Sooloos are both such adepts in fraud, that great
caution and circumspection are necessary.

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S O O L O 0. 3 17

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The duties on importation are not fixed, but are changed and altered
from time to time by the Ruina Bechara. The following was stated
to me as the necessary payments before trade could be carried on.

A large ship, with Chinese on board, pays ■ . • $2,000

" without tt M . . • . 1^800

Small sliipe,
Large brig.
Small brig",
Schooners,

1,500

. 1,000

500

. from 150 to 400

This supposes them all to have full cargoes. That a difference
should be made in a vessel with or without Chinamen, seems singular;
but this, I was told, arose from the circumstance that English vessels
take them on board, in order to detect and prevent the impositions of
the Sooloos.

Vessels intending to trade at Soung should arrive before the Chinese
junks, and remain as long as they stay, or even a few days later. In
trading with the natives, all operations ought to be carried on for cash,
or if by barter, no delivery should be made until the articles to be
taken in exchange are received. In short, it is necessary to deal with
? them as though they were undoubted rogues, and this pleases them

much more than to appear unsuspicious. Vessels that trade engage
a bazaar, which they hire of the Ruma Bechara, and it is advisable to
secure the good-wnll of the leading datus in that council by presents,
and paying them more for their goods than others.

There are various other precautions necessary in dealing with this
people; for they will, if possible, so act as to give rise to disputes, in
w^hich case an appeal is made to their fellows, who are sure to decide
against the strangers. Those who have been engaged in this trade,
advise that the prices of the goods should be fixed upon before the
Sultan, and the scales of the Datu of Soung employed; for although

these are quite faulty, the error is compensated by the articles received
being weighed in the same. This also secures the Datu's good-will,
by the fee (some fifty dollars) which he receives for the use of them.
Thus it will be perceived that those who desire to trade with Sooloo,
must make up their minds to encounter many impositions, and to be
continually w^atchful of their own interests.
\ Every possible precaution ought to be taken ; and it will be found, the

treatment will depend upon, or be according to the force or resolution
that is displayed. In justice to this people it must be stated, there have
been times when traders received every kindness and attention at the
island of Sooloo, and I heard it even said, that many vessels had gone
there to refit; but during the last thirty or forty years, the reigning

348 S 0 0 L O a

1

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sultans and their subjects have become hostile to Europeans, of whom
they plunder and destroy as many as they can, and this they have
hitherto been allowed to do with impunity.

Although I have described the trade with Sooloo as Hmited, yet it is
capable of greater extension ; and had it not been for the piratical
habits of the people, the evil report of which has been so widely spread,
Sooloo would now have been one of the principal marts of the East.
The most fertile parts of Borneo are subject to its authority. There all
the richest productions of these Eastern seas grow in immense quanti-
ties, but are now left ungarnered in consequence of there being no
buyers. The cost of their cultivation would be exceedingly low, and
I am disposed to believe that these articles could be produced here at a
lower cost than any where else.

Besides the trade with China, there is a very considerable one with
Manilla in small articles, and I found one of our countrymen engaged
in this traffic, under the Spanish flag. To him I am indebted for much
information that his opportunities of observation had given him.

The materials for the history of Sooloo are meagre, and great doubt
seems to exist in some periods of it. That which I have been able to
rgather is as follows.

The island of Sooloo is generally believed to have been originally
inhabited by Papuans, some of whom, as I have already stated, are
still supposed to inhabit the mountainous part. The first intercourse
had with them was by the Chinese, who went there in search of pearls.
The Orang Dampuwans were the first of the Malays to form settle-
ments on the islands; but after building towns, and making other
improvements, they abandoned the islands, in consequence, it is said,
of the inhabitants being a perfidious race, having previously to their
departure destroyed as many of the natives as they could.

The fame of the submarine riches of this archipelago reached
Banjar, or Borneo, the people of which were induced to resort there,
and finding it to equal their expectation, they sent a large colony, and
made endeavours to win over the inhabitants, and obtain thereby the
possession of their rich isle. In order to confirm the alliance, a female
of Banjarmassing, of great beauty, was sent, and married to the prin-
cipal chief; and from this alliance the sovereigns of Sooloo claim their
descent. The treaty of marriage made Sooloo tributary to the Ban-
jarmassing empire.

After the Banjars had thus obtained possession of the archipelago
the trade in its products attracted settlers from the surrounding islands

abo

inaccessible mountains for protection.

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S O O L O 0. 349

When the Chinese took possession of the northern parts of Borneo,
under the Emperor Songtiping, about the year 1375, the daughter of
that prince was married to a celebrated Arabian chief named Shcrif
Alii, who visited the shores of Borneo in quest of commerce. The
descendants of this marriage extended their conquests not only over the
Sooloo Archipelago, but over the whole of the Philippines, and rendered
the former tributary to Borneo. In three Teigns after this event, the
sultan of Borneo proper married the daughter of a Sooloo chief, and
from this union came Mirhome Bongsu, who succeeding to the throne
while yet a minor, his uncle acted as regent. Sooloo now wished to
throw off the yoke of Borneo, and through the intrigues of the regent
succeeded in doing so, as well as in retaining possession of the eastern
side of Borneo, from Maludu Bay on the north, to Tulusyan on the
south, which has ever since been a part of the Sooloo territory.

This event took place before Islamism became the prevailing reli-
gion ; but which form of idolatry, the Sooloos pretend, is not now
known. It is, howev^er, believed the people on the coasts were

Budhists, w^hile those of the interior were Pagans.

The first sultan of Sooloo was Kamaludin, and during his reign
one Sayed Alii, a merchant, arrived at Sooloo from Mecca. He was
a sherif, and soon converted one-half of the islanders to his own faith.
He was elected sultan on the death of Kamaludin, and reigned seven
years, in the course of which he became celebrated throughout the
archipelago. Dying at Sooloo, a tomb was erected to him there, and
the island came to be looked upon by the faithful as the Mecca of the
East, and continued to be resorted to as a pilgrimage until the arrival

of the Spaniards.

Sayed Alii left a son called Batua, who succeeded him- The latter

had two sons, named Sabudin and Nasarudin, who, on the death of

their father, made w^ar upon each other. Nasarudin, the youngest,

being defeated, sought refuge on Tawi Tawi, where he established

< himself, and built a fort for his protection. The difficulties were finally

compromised, and they agreed to reign together over Sooloo. Nasa-
rudin had two sons, called Amir and Bantilan, of whom the former
was named as successor to the two brothers, and on their deaths
ascended the throne. During his reign another sherif arrived from
Mecca, who succeeded in converting the remainder of the population
to Islamism. Bantilan and his brother Amir finally quarrelled, and the
latter was driven from Sooloo to seek refuge in the island of Basillan,

where he became sultan.

On the arrival of the Spaniards in 1566, a kind of desultory war
was waged by them upon the various islands, in the hope of conquer-

2E

^ _ -k

350 S O O L O O.

ing them and extending their religion. In these wars they succeeded

in gaining temporary possession of a part of Sooloo, and destroyed

the tomb of Sayed Alii- The Spaniards always looked upon the con-
version of the Moslems to the true Catholic faith with great interest;
but in the year 1646, the sultan of Magindanao succeeded in making
peace, by the terms of which the Spaniards withdrew from Sooloo,
and were to receive from the sultan three cargoes of rice annually as
a tribute.

In 1608, the small-pox made fearful ravages, and most of the inhabi-
tants fled from the scourge- Among these was the heir apparent,
during whose absence the throne became vacant, and another was
elected in his stead- This produced contention for a short time,
which ended in the elected maintaining his place.

This tribute continued to be paid until the flight of Amir to Basillan,
about the year 1752, where he entered into a secret correspondence
with the authorities at Samboangan, and after two years a vessel was
sent from Manilla, which carried him to that capital, where he was
treated as a prisoner of state.

In June, 1759, an English ship, on board of which was Dalrymple,
then in the service of the East India Company, arrived at Sooloo on
a trading voyage. Dalrymple remained at Sooloo for three months,
engaged in making sales and purchases. The Sultan Bantilan treated
him with great kindness, and sought the interest of Dalrymple to
obtain the liberation of his brother, who was now held prisoner by the
Spaniards at Manilla, by telling him of the distress of his brother's
wife, who had been left behind when Amir quitted the island, and had
been delivered of twins, after he had been kidnapped by the Spaniards.
Dalrymple entered into a pledge to restore Amir, and at the same time
effected a commercial treaty between the East India Company and the
Sooloo chiefs. By this it was stipulated that an annual cargo should
be sent to Sooloo, and sold at one hundred per cent, profit, for which
a return cargo should be provided for the China market, which should
realize an equal profit there, after deducting all expenses. The over-
plus, if any, was to be carried to the credit of the Sooloos. This
appears to have been the first attempt made by the English to secure a
regular commercial intercourse with this archipelago.

Jq the year 1760, a large fleet of Spanish vessels sailed from Manilla,
with about two thousand men, having the Sultan Amir on board, to
carry on a war against Sooloo.

On their arrival, they began active operations. They w^ere repelled
CD all sides, and after seven days' ineffectual attempts, they gave up
their design. Thev returned to Manilla, it is said, with a loss of half

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SOOLOO. 351

their number, and without having done any injury to the Sooloos.
Not discouraged with this failure, the Spaniards, about two years
after, organized a still larger force, which is estimated by some ac-
counts as high as ten thousand men. Although this failed in its
attempts on the fort at Soung, the Spaniards obtained possession of
Tanjong Matonda, one of the small ports on the island, where they
erected a church and fort. Here they established a colony, and
appointed a governor. The inhabitants upon this deserted their habi-
tations in the neighbourhood, and fled to the mountains, which, it is
said, excited the mountaineers, a host of whom, with their chief,
whose name was Sri Kala, determined to rush upon the Spaniards,
and annihilate them. Having to contend against disciplined troops,
it was not an easy task to succeed. But Sri Kala had a follower,
named Sigalo, who offered to lead the host to battle against the
Spaniards, and to exterminate them, or die in the attempt. The chief
accepted his offer, and Sigalo, with a chosen few, marched towards
the fort, leaving the rest of the mountaineers in readiness to join them
at an appointed signal, and rush into the fort en masse.

Sri Kala and Sigalo, in order to lull the watchfulness of the Spa*
niards, took with them a young w^oman, of exquisite beauty, named
Purmassuri. The lustful Spaniards were thus thrown off their guard,

the signal was given, and the host, rushing forward, entered the fort,

every Spaniard within which was slain. A few only, who were on
the outside, escaped to the vessels, which set sail, and after encounter-
ing various mishaps, returned to Manilla.

Some time after this the Sultan Bantilan died, and his son Alim-ud-
deen was proclaimed sultan. Dalrymple did not return until 1762,
with a part of the appointed cargo ; but the vessel in which the larger
part had been shipped, failed to arrive, from not being able to find
Sooloo, and went to China. Thence she proceeded to Manilla, and
afterwards to Sooloo. The captain of the latter vessel gave a new
^ credit to the Sooloos, before they had paid for their first cargo; and

on the arrival of Dalrymple the next time, he found that the small-pox
had carried off a large number of the inhabitants, from which circum-
stance all his hopes of profit were frustrated. He then obtained for
the use of the East India Company, a grant of the island of Balamban-
gan, which lies off the north end of Borneo, forming one side of the
Straits of Balabac, the western entrance to the Sooloo Sea. Here he
proposed to establish a trading port, and after having visited Madras,
he took possession of this island in 1763.

In October, 1763, the English took Manilla, where the Sultan Amir
was found by Dalrymple, who engaged to reinstate him on his throne,

I

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352 SOOLOO.

if he would cede to the English the north end of Borneo, as well as the
south end of Palawan. This he readily promised, and he was, in
consequence, carried back to Sooloo and reinstated ; his nephew,
Alim-ud-deen, readily giving place to him, and confirming the grant to

the East India Company, in which the Ruma Bechara joined.

After various aiTangements, the East India Company took possession
of Balambangan, in the year 1773, and formed a settlement there with
a view of making it an emporium of trade for Eastern commodities.
Troops and stores w^ere sent from India, and the population began to
increase by settlers, both Chinese and Malays, who arrived in numbers.
In the year 1775, the fort, notwithstanding all the treaties and engage-

ments between Dalrymple and the Sultan, was surprised by the
Sooloos, and many of the garrison put to death- This virtually put an
end to the plans of the English, although another attempt was made to
re-establish the settlement by Colonel Farquhar, in 1803; but it was
thought to be too expensive a post, and was accordingly abandoned in
the next year. This act of the Sooloos fairly estabhshed their charac-
ter for perfidy, and ever since that transaction they have been looked
upon as treacherous in the highest degree, and, what is singular, have
been allowed to carry on their piracies quite unmolested. The taking

of Balambangan has been generally imputed to the treacherous dispo-
sition and innate love of plunder among the Sooloos, as well aslo-their

fear that it would destroy the trade of Sooloo by injuring all that of
the archipelago- But there are strong reasons for believing that this
dark deed owed its origin in part to the influence of the Spaniards and
Dutch, who looked with much distrust upon the growth of the rival
establishment. Such was the jealousy of the Spaniards, that the
governor of the Philippines peremptorily required that Balambangan
should be evacuated. The Sooloos boast of the deed, and admit that
they received assistance from both Samboangan and Ternate, the two
nearest Spanish and Dutch ports. These nations had great reasons to
fear the establishment of a power like that of the East India Company,
in a spot so favourably situated to secure the trade of the surrounding^
islands, possessing fine harbours, and in every w^ay adapted to become
a great commercial depot- Had it been held by the East India Com-
pany but for a few years, it must have become what Singapore is now.
The original planner of this settlement is said to have been Lord
Pigot; but the merit of carrying it forward w^as undoubtedly due to
Dalrymple, whose enterprising mind saw the advantage of the situa-
tion, and whose energy was capable of carrying the project success-
fully forward.

Since the capture of Balambangan, there has been no event in the

S O O L O O. 353

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history of Sooloo that has made any of the reigns of the sultans memo-
rable, ahhough fifteen have since ascended the throne.

Sooloo has from all the accounts very much changed in its character
as well as population since the arrival of the Spaniards, and the esta-
blishment of their authority in the Philippines. Before that event, some
accounts state that the trade with the Chinese was of great extent, and
that from four to five hundred junks arrived annually from Cambojia,
with which Sooloo principally traded. At that time the population is
said to have equalled in density that of the thickly-settled parts of China.

The government has also undergone a change; for the sultan, who
among other Malay races is usually despotic, is here a mere cipher,
and the government has become an oligarchy- This change has
probably been brought about by the increase of the privileged class of
datus, all of whom were entitled to a seat in the Ruma Bechara until
about the year 1810, when the great inconvenience of so large a
council w^as felt, and it became impossible to control it without great
difficulty and trouble on the part of the suhan. The Ruma Bechara
was then reduced until it contained but six of the principal datus, who
assumed the power of controlling the state. The Ruma Bechara, how-
ever, in consequence of the complaints of many pow'crful datus, was
enlarged ; but the more pow^erful, and those who have the largest
numerical force of slaves, still rule over its deliberations. The whole
power, within the last thirty years, has been usurped by one or two
datus, who now have monopolized the little foreign trade that comes to
these islands. The sultan has the right to appoint his successor, and
generally names him while living. In default of this, the choice
devolves upon the Ruma Bechara, who elect by a majority.

From a more frequent intercourse with Europeans and the discovery
of new routes through these seas, the opportunities of committing*
depredations have become less frequent, and the fear oi detection
greater. By this latter motive they are more swayed than by any
thing else, and if the Sooloos have ever been bold and daring robbers
on the high seas, they have very much changed.

Many statements have been made and published relative to the
piracies committed in these seas, which in some cases exceed, and in
others fall short, of the reality. Most of the piratical establishments are
under the rule, or sail under the auspices of the Sultan and Ruma
Bechara of Sooloo, who are more or less intimately connected with
them. The share of the booty that belongs to the Sultan and Ruma
Bechara is twenty-five per cent, on all captures, whilst the datus
receive a high price for the advance they make of guns and powder,

r

and for the services of their slaves.
VOL. V. 2 E 3 45

354 S O O L 0 0,

The following are the piratical establishments of Sooloo, obtained
from the most authentic sources, published as well as verbal. The first
among these is the port of Soung, at which we anchored, in the island
of Sooloo ; not so much from the number of men available here for this
pursuit, as the facility of disposing of the goods. By the Spaniards they
are denominated Ilia nun or Lanuns pirates.* There are other rendez-
vous on Pulo Toolyan, at Bohol, Tonho, Pilas, Tawi Tawi, Sumlout,
Pantutaran, Parodasan, Palaw^an, and Basillan, and Tantoli on Celebes,
These are the most noted, but there are many minor places, where
Haifa dozen prahus are fitted out. Those of Sooloo, and those who go
under the name of the Lanuns, have prahus of larger size, and better
fitted. They are from twenty to thirty tons burden, and are propelled
by both sails and oars. They draw but little water, are fast sailers,
and well adapted for navigating through these dangerous seas. These
pirates are supposed to possess in the whole about two hundred
prahus, which usually are manned with from forty to fifty pirates ; the
number therefore engaged in this business, may be estimated at ten
thousand. They are armed with muskets, blunderbusses, krises,
hatchets, and spears, and at times the vessels have one or two large
guns mounted. They infest the Straits of Macassar, the Sea of
Celebes, and the Sooloo Sea. Soung is the only place where they can
dispose of their plunder to advantage, and obtain the necessary outfits.
It may be called the principal resort of these pirates, where well-
directed measures would result in effectually suppressing the crime.

Besides the pirates of Sooloo, the commerce of the eastern islands is
vexed with other piratical establishments. In the neighbouring seas,
there are the Malay pirates, who have of late years become exceedingly
troublesome- Their prahus are of much smaller size than those of
Sooloo, being from ten to twelve tons burden, but in proportion they are
much better manned, and thus are enabled to ply with more efficiency
their oars or pt^dles. These prahus frequent the shores of the Straits
of Malacca, Cape Romania, the Carimon Isles, and the neighbouring
straits, and at times they visit the Straits of Rhio. Some of the most
noted, I was informed, were fitted out from Johore, in the very
neighbourhood of the English authorities at Singapore; they generally
have their haunts on the small islands on the coast, from which they
make short cruises.

They are noted for their arrangements for preventing themselves
from receiving injury, in the desperate defences that are sometimes
made against them. These small prahus have usually swivels mounted,

■

* This name is derived from the large bay that makes in on the south side of the island of
Mindanao, and on which a set of ireebooters reside.

S O O L O 0. 355

1

I

which, although not of great calibre, are capable of throwing a shot

beyond the range of small-arms. It is said that they seldom attempt
an attack unless the sea is calm, which enables them to approach their
victims with more assurance of success, on account of the facility with
which they are enabled to manage their boats. The frequent calms
which occur in these seas between the land and sea breezes, afford

them many opportunities of putting their villanous plans in operation ;
? and the many inlets and islets, with which they are well acquainted,

afford places of refuge and ambush, and for concealing their booty.
They are generally found in small flotillas of from six to twenty
prahus, and when they have succeeded in disabling a vessel at long
shot, the sound of the gong is the signal for boarding, which, if suc-
cessful, results in a massacre more or less bloody, according to the
obstinacy of the resistance they have met with.

In the winter months, the Straits of Malacca are most infested with
them ; and during the summer, the neighbourhood of Singapore, Point
Romania, and the channels in the vicinity. In the spring, from Fe-
bruary to May, they are engaged in procuring their supplies, in fishing,
and refitting their prahus for the coming year.

I have frequently heard plans proposed for the suppression of these
pirates, particularly of those in the neighbourhood of the settlements
under British rule. The European authorities are much to blame for
the quiescent manner in which they have so long borne these depre-
dations, and many complaints are made that Englishmen, on being
transplanted to India, lose that feeling of horror for deeds of blood,
such as are constantly occurring at their very doors, which they
would experience in England. There are, however, many difficulties
to overcome before operations against the pirates can be effective.
The greatest of these is the desire of the English to secure the good-
will of the chiefs of the tribes by whom they are surrounded. They
thus wink at their piracies on the vessels of other nations, or take no
i steps to alleviate the evils of slavery. Indeed the language that one

< hears from many intelligent men who have long resided in that part

of the world is, that in no country where civilization exists does
slavery exhibit so debasing a form as in her Indian possessions.

Another difficulty consists in the want of minute knowledge of the
coasts, inlets, and hiding-places of the pirates, and this must continue
to exist until proper surveys are made. This done, it would be neces-
sary to employ vessels that could pursue the pirates every where, for
which purpose steamers naturally suggest themselves.

What wdll appear most extraordinary is, that the very princes who
are enjoying the stipend for the purchase of the site whereon the

356 S O O L O O.

English authority is established, are believed to be the most active in
equipping the prahus for these piratical expeditions; yet no notice is
taken of them, although it would be so easy to control them by with-
holding payment until they had cleared themselves from suspicion, or
bv establishing; residents in their chief towns.

Another, and a very different race of natives who frequent the
Sooloo Archipelago, must not be passed by without notice. These
are the Bajow divers or fishermen, to whom Sooloo is indebted for
procuring the submarine treasures with which her seas are stored.
They are also very frequently employed in the biche de mar or
tripang fisheries among the islands to the south. The Bajow^s gene-
rally look upon Macassar as their principal place of resort. They
were at one time believed to be derived from Johore, on the Malayan
peninsula; at another, to be Buguese; but they speak the Sooloo
dialect, and are certainly derived from some of the neighbouring
islands. The name of Bajows, in their tongue, means fishermen.
From all accounts, they are allowed to pursue their avocations in
peace, ^nd are not unfrequently employed by the piratical datus,

H

and made to labour for them. They resort to their fishing-grounds
in fleets of between one and two hundred sail, Iiaving their wives and
children with them, and in consequence of the tyranny of the Sooloos,
endeavour to place themselves under the protection of the flag of
Holland, by which nation this useful class of people is encouraged.
T!ie Sooloo seas are comparatively little frequented by them, as they
are unable to dispose of the produce of their fisheries for want of
a market, and fear the exactions of the datus. Their prahus are
about five tons each. The Bajows at some islands are stationary,
but are for the most part constantly changing their ground. The
Spanish authorities in the Philippines encourage them, it is said,
to frequent their islands, as without them they would derive little
benefit from the banks in the neighbouring seas, where quantities of
pearl-oysters are known to exist, which produce pearls of the finest
kind. The Bajows are inoffensive and very industrious, and in faith
Mahomedans-

The climate of Sooloo during our short stay, though warm, was
agreeable. The time of our visit was in the dry season, which lasts
from October till April, and alternates with the wet one, from May till
September. June and July are the windy months, when strong
breezes blow from the westward. In the latter part of August and
September, strong gales are felt from the south, while in December
and January the winds are found to come from the northward ; but
light winds usually prevail from the southwest during the wet season,

S O O L O O. 357

and from the opposite quarter, the dry, following closely the order of
the monsoons in the China seas. As to the temperature, the climate
is very equable, the thermometer seldom rising above 90^ or falling
below 70^.

Diseases are few, and those that prevail arise from the manner in
which the natives live. They are from that cause an unhealthy-looking
race* The small-pox has at various times raged with great violence
throughout the group, and they speak of it with great dread. Few
of the natives appeared to be marked with it, which may have been
owing, perhaps, to their escaping this disorder for some years. Vacci-
nation has not yet been introduced among them, nor have they practised
inoculation.

Notwithstanding Soung was once the Mecca of the East, its people
have but little zeal for the Mahomedan faith. It was thought at one
lime that they had almost forgotten its tenets, in consequence of the
neglect of all their religious observances- The precepts which they
seem to regard most are that of abstaining from swine's flesh, and
that of being circumcised. Although polygamy is not interdicted, few
even of the datus have more than one wife.
} Soung Road offers good anchorage ; and supplies of all kinds may

be had in abundance. Beef is cheap, and vegetables and fruits at all

seasons plenty.

Our observations placed the town in latitude 6"^ 01' N., longitude

120^55' 51" E.

On the 6th, having concluded the treaty (a copy of which will be

found in Appendix XIII.) and the other business that had taken me
to Sooloo, w^e took our departure for the Straits of Balabac, the
western entrance into this sea, with a fine breeze to the eastward.
By noon we had reached the group of Pangootaaraang, consisting of
five small islands. All of these are low, covered with trees, and
without lagoons. They presented a great contrast to Sooloo, which
was seen behind us in the distance. The absence of the swell of the
ocean in sailing through this sea is striking, and gives the idea of
navigating an extensive bay,on w^hose luxuriant islands no surf breaks-
There are, howev^er, sources of danger that incite the navigator to
watchfulness and constant anxiety ; the hidden shoals and reefs, and
the sweep of the tide, which leave him no control over his vessel.

Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, we sounded every
twenty minutes, but found no bottom ; and at daylight on the 7th,
we made the islands of Cagayan Sooloo, in latitude 7^ 03' 30" N.,
longitude 118° 37' E. The tide or current was passing the islands
to the west-southwest, three quarters of a mile per hour; we had

If

358 SOOLOO.

soundings of seventy-five fathoms. Cagayan Sooloo has a pleasant
appearance from the sea, and may be termed a high island. It is
less covered with undergrowth and mangrove-bushes than the neigh-

^.V^., ... ^AiV* ...^w^

bouring islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. It has fallen
off in importance; and by comparing former accounts with those I
received, and from its present aspect, it would seem that it has
decreased both in population and products. Its caves formerly sup-
plied a large quantity of edible birds'-nests ; large numbers of cattle
were to be found upon it ; and its cultivation was carried on to some
extent. These articles of commerce are not so much attended to at
the present time, and the biche de mar and tortoise-shell, formerly
brought hither, are now carried to other places. There is a small
anchorage on the west side, but we did not visit it. There are no
dangers near these small islands that may not be guarded against.
Our survey extended only to their size and situation, as I deemed it
my duty to devote all the remainder of the time I had to spare to the
Straits of Balabac.

After the night set in, we continued sounding every ten minutes,
and occasionally got bottom in from thirty to seventy fathoms. At
midnight, the water shoaled to twenty fathoms, when I dropped the
anchor until daylight. We shortly afterwards had a change of wind,
and a heavy squall passed over us. — —

In the morning we bad no shoal ground near us, and the bank on
which we had anchored was found to be of small size ; it is probable

r

that we had dropped the anchor on the shoalest place. Vessels have
nothing to fear in this respect.

At 9 A. M. of the 8th, we made the Mangsee Islands ahead of us,
and likewise Balabac to the north, and Balambangan to the south.
Several sand-banks and extensive reefs were also seen between them.
On seeing the ground on which we had to operate, of which the
published charts give no idea whatever, I determined to proceed, and
take a central position with the ship under the Mangsee Islands; but
in order not to lose time, I hoisted out and dropped two boats, under
Lieutenant Perry, to survey the first sand-bank we came to, which
lies a few miles to the eastward of these islands, with orders to effect
this duty and join me at the anchorage, or find a shelter under the lee.
of the islands.

At half-past 2 p. m. we anchored near the reef, in thirty-six fathoms
water. I thought myself fortunate in getting bottom, as the reefs on
closing with them seemed to indicate but little appearance of it.

The rest of the day was spent in preparing the boats for our opera-
tions. I now felt the want of the tender. Although in the absence

S O O L O O. 359

of this vessel, great exposure was necessary to effect tin's survey, I
found both officers and men cheerful and willing. The parties were
organized, — tlic first to proceed to the north, towards Balabac Island,
to survey the intermediate shoals and reefs, tinder Lieutenant Emmons
and Mr. Totten ; the second to the south, under Lieutenants Perry
and Budd ; and Mr. Hammersly for the survey of the shoals of
Balambangan and Bangucy, and their reefs. The examination of
the Mangsee Islands, and the reefs adjacent, with the astronomical
and magnetic observations, &c., devolved on myself and those who
remained on board the ship.

The weather was w^atched with anxiety, and turned out disagree-
able, heavy showers and strong winds prevailing; notwithstanding,
the boats were despatched, after being as wxU protected against it as .
possible. We flattered ourselves that these extensive reefs would
produce a fine harvest of shells ; but, although every exertion was
made in the search, we did not add as many to our collections as w^e
anticipated. Some land-shells, how^ever, were found that we little
expected to meet with, for many of the trees were covered with them,
and on cutting them down, large quantities were easily obtained. Mr.
; Peale shot several birds, among w^hich was a Nicobar pigeon ; some

interesting plants and corals were also added. On the island a large
quantity of drift-wood was found, which with that which is growing
affords ample supplies of fuel for ships. No fresh water is to be had,
except by digging, the island being but a few feet above high-water
mark.

Although the time was somewhat unfavourable, Lieutenant Em-
mons and party executed their orders within the time designated, and
met wath no other obstructions than the inclemency of the weather.
This was not, however, the case with Lieutenant Perry, who, near a
smallbeach on the island of Balambangan, encountered some Sooloos,
who were disposed to attack him. The natives, no doubt, were und^r

r

the impression that the boats were from some shipwrecked vessel
They were all well armed, and apparently prepared to take advantage
of the party if possible ; but, by the prudence and forbearance of this
officer, collision w^as avoided, and his party saved from an attack.
The island of Balambangan was through the instrumentality of
I Mr. Dalrymple, as heretofore stated, obtained from the Sooloos for a

settlement and place of deposit, by the East India Company, who
took possession of it in 1773. Its situation off the northern end of
Borneo, near the fertile district of that island, its central position, and
its two fine ports, offered great advantages for commerce, and for
its becoming a great entrepot for the riches of this archipelago.

360

S O O L O O.

Troops, and stores of all kinds, were sent from India ; numbers of
Chinese and Malays were induced to settle ; and Mr. Herbert, one of
the council of Bencoolen, was appointed governor. It had been sup-
posed to be a healthy place, as the island was elevated, and therefore
probably free from malaria; but in 1775 the native troops from India
became much reduced from sickness, and the post consequently much
weakened. This, with the absence of the cruisers from the harbour,
afforded a favourable opportunity for its capture ; and the wealth that
it was supposed to contain created an inducement that proved too
great for the hordes of marauding pirates to resist. Choosing their
time, they rushed upon the sentries, put them to death, took possession
of the guns, and turned them against the garrison, only a few of whom
made their escape on board of a small vessel. The booty in goods
and valuables was said to have been very large, amounting to nearly
four hundred thousand pounds sterling.

Although Borneo offers many inducements to commercial enter-
prise, the policy of the Dutch Company has shut themselves out, as
well as others, by interdicting communication. In consequence, ex-
cept through indirect channels, there has been no information obtained
of the singular and unknown inhabitants of its interior. This, how-
ever, is not long destined to be the case.

Mr. Brooke, an English gentleman of fortune, has, since our pas-
sage through these seas, from philanthropic motives, made an agree-
ment with the rajah of Sarawack, on the northern and western side
of Borneo, to cede to him the administration of that portion of the
island. This arrangement it is believed the British government will
confirm, in which event Sarawack will at once obtain an importance

among the foreign colonies, in the Eastern seas, second only to that of
Singapore.

The principal inducement that has influenced Mr. Brooke in this
undertaking is the interest he feels in the benighted people of the
interior, who are known under the name of Dyack, and of whom some
extraordinary accounts have been given.

A few of these, which I have procured from reputable sources, I
will now relate, in order that it may be seen among what kind of
people this gentleman has undertaken to introduce the arts of civili-
zation.

The Dyacks are, by all accounts, a fine race, and much the most
numerous of any inhabiting Borneo- They are almost exclusively
confined to the interior, where they enjoy a fine climate, and all the
spontaneous productions of the tropics. They are believed to be the
aborigines of the island. The name of Dyack seems to be more

-^

.x.l^£__U.. TT-.J ■

sooLoa 3(51

> particularly applied to those who live in the southern section of

Borneo. To the north they are called Idaan or Tirun, and those so
termed are best known to the Sooloos, or the inhabitants of that part
of the coast of Borneo over which the Sooloos rule. In personal
appearance, the Dyaclis are slender, have higher foreheads than the
Malays, and are a finer and much better-looking people. Their hair
is long, straight, and coarse, though it is generally cropped short round
the head. The females are spoken of as being fair and handsome, and

b

*

I

I

1

\

many of those who have been made slaves are to be seen among the
Malays.

In manners the Dyacks are described as simple and mild, yet they
are characterized by some of the most uncommon and revolting cus-
toms of barbarians. Their government is very simple; the elders in
each village for the most part rule ; but they are said to have chiefs
that do not differ from the Malay rajahs. They wear no clothing
except the maro, and many of them are tattooed, with a variety of
figures, over their body. They live in houses built of wood, that are
generally of large size, and frequently contain as many as one hundred
persons. These houses are usually built on piles, divided into compart-
ments, and have a kind of veranda in front, which serves as a commu-
nication between the several families. The patriarch, or elder, resides
m the middle. The houses are entered by ladders, and have doors,
but no windows. The villages are protected by a sort of breastwork.

Although this people are to be found throughout all Borneo, and
even within a few miles of the coast, yet they do not occupy any part
of its shores, which are held by Malays, or Chinese settlers. There
is no country more likely to interest the world than Borneo. All
accounts speak of vast ruins of temples and palaces, throughout the
whole extent of its interior, which the ancestors of the present inha-
bitants could not have constructed. The great resemblance these
bear to those of China and Cambojia has led to the belief that Borneo
was formerly peopled by those nations ; but all traditions of the origin
of these edifices have been lost; and so little is now known of the
northern side of Borneo, that it would be presumption to indulge in
any surmises of what may have been its state during these dark ages.
Even the Bugis priests, who are the best-informed persons in the
country, have no WTitings or traditions that bear upon the subject; and
the few scattered legends of Eastern origin, can afford no proof of the
occurrence of the events they commemorate in any particular locality.

The accounts of the habits of the Dyacks are discrepant. Some
give them credit for being very industrious, while others again speak
of them as indolent. They are certainly cultivators of the soil, and

VOL. V-

2F 46

362

S O O L O O.

in order to obtain the articles they need, will work assiduously. Many
of them are employed in collecting gold-dust, and some in the diamond
mines ; and they will at titnes be found procuring gums, rattans, &c.,
from their native forests for barter. They are a people o[ great energy
of character, and perseverance in the attainment of their object, par-
ticularly when on war-parties, or engaged in hunting.

Their food consists of rice, hogs, rats, snakes, monkeys, and many
kinds of vermin, with which this country abounds.

Their chief weapon is the parang or heavy knife, somewhat like
the kris. It is manufactured of native iron and steel, with which the
coast of the country is said to abound. They have a method of work-
ing it which renders it unnecessary for them to look to a foreign
supply ; the only articles of foreign hardware that they are said to
desire, are razors, out of which to make their cockspurs. One thing
seems strange : although asserted upon good authority, that the iron
and steel of the coast are thought to be superior by foreigners, they
are not to be compared with that which is found in the interior, and

manufactured by the Dyacks.

Malay

rajahs and chiefs, are obtained from the interior. Some of these are
exquisitely manufactured, and so hard that, without turning the edge,
they cut ordinary wrought iron and steel.

Among their other weapons is the sumpit, a hollow tube, through
which they blow poisoned arrows. The latter are of various kinds,
and those used in war are dipped in the sap of what the natives term
the " upo." The effect of this poison is ahnost instantaneous, and
destroys life in four or five minutes. Those who have seen a wound
given accidentally, describe the changes that the poison occasions as
plainly perceptible in its progress. Before using the arrow, its poisoned
point is dipped in lime-juice to quicken it. The range of the sumpit
is from fifty to sixty yards. Although the arrows are poisoned, yet
it is said they sometimes eat the game they kill with them, parboiling
it before it is roasted, which is thought to extract the poison. Fire-
arms, respecting which they have much fear, have not yet been intro-
duced aniong them ; indeed, it is said that so easily are they intimi-
dated by such weapons, that on hearing a report of a gun they
invariably run aw^ay. Each individual in a host would be impressed
with the belief that he was the one that was to be shot.

They address their prayers to the maker of the world, whom they

call Dewatta, and this is all the religion they have. There are many

animals and birds held by them in high veneration, and they are close

observers of the flight of birds, from which they draw prognostics.

•There is in particular a white-headed eagle or kite, upon whose flight

r

SOOLOO. 303

and cries they put great reliance, and consult them in war or on any
particular expedition. For this purpose they draw numbers of thetn
together, and feed them by scattering rice about. It is said their

priests consult their entrails also on particular occasions, to endeavour
to look into future events.

In the performance of their engagements and oaths, they are most

scrupulous. They seem to have some idea of a future life, and that

on the road to their elysium they have to pass over a long tree, which

requires the assistance of all those they have slain in this world-.

The abode of happy spirits is supposed to be on the top of Kini Balu,

one of their loftiest mountains, and the portals are guarded by a fiery

serpent, who does not suffer any virgin to pass into the celestial
paradise.

Polygamy does not exist among them, but they have as concubines
slaves, who are captured in their w^ars or rather predatory expeditions.
If a wife proves unfaithful to her husband, he kills several of his
slaves, or inflicts upon her many blows, and a divorce may be effected
by the husband paying her a certain price, and giving up her clothes
and ornaments, after which he is at liberty to marry another. The
women, how^ever, exercise an extraordinary influence over the men.

But of all their peculiar traits, there is none more strange than the

passion they se6m to indulge for collecting human hends. Thpf^e are

necessary accompaniments in many transactions of their lives, par-
ticularly in their marriages, and no one can marry unless he has a
certain number of heads ; indeed, those who cannot obtain these are
looked upon with disdain by the females. A young man wishing to
wed, and making application to marry her for whom he has formed
an attachment, repairs with the girl's father to the rajah or chief, who
immediately inquires respecting the number of heads he has procured,
and generally decides that he ought to obtain one or two more, ac-
cording to his age, and the number the girl's father may have pro-
cured, before he can be accepted. He at once takes his canoe and
some trusty followers, and departs on his bloody errand, w^aylaying
the unsuspecting or surprising the defenceless, whose head he imme-
diately cuts off, and then makes a hurried retreat. With this he
repairs to the dwelling of his mistress, or sends intelligence of his
success before him. On his arrival, he is met by a joyous group of
females, who receive him with every demonstration of joy, and gladly

accept his ghastly offering.

Various barbarous ceremonies now take place, among which the
heads undergo inspection to ascertain if they are fresh ; and, in order
to prove this, none of the brain must be removed, nor must they have

364 S O O L O O.

been submitted to smoke to destroy the smell After these prelimi- •
naries, the family honour of the bride is supposed to be satisfied, and
she is not allowed to refuse to marry- A feast is now made, and the
couple are seated in the midst naked, holding the bloody heads, when
handfuls of rice are thrown over them, with prayers that they may
be happy and fruitful. After this, the bridegroom repairs in state to
the house of the bride, where he is received at the door by one of her
friends, who sprinkles him with the blood of a cock, and her with
that of a hen. This completes the affair, and they are man and wife-
Funerals are hkewise consecrated by similar offerings, the corpse
remaining in the house until a slave can be procured, by purchase or
otherwise, whom they design to behead at the time the body is burnt.
This is done in order that the defunct may be attended by a slave on
his w^ay to the other world or realms of bliss. After being burnt, the
ashes of the deceased are gathered in an urn, and the head of the slave
preserved and placed near it.

in some parts, a rajah or chief is buried with great pomp in his war
habiliments, and food and his arms are placed at his side. A mound is
erected over him, which is encircled with a bamboo fence, upon which
a number of fresh heads are stuck, all the warriors who have been
attached to him bringing them as the most acceptable offering; and

subsequently theEe horrid ofleriags arc renewed. j„_ _

The Dyacks are found also on the island of Celebes, but there, as in
Borneo, they are confined to the interior. I have already mentioned
that 'they were supposed to have been the original inhabitants of the
Sooloo Archipelago. The Sooloos speak of the country of the Dyacks
as being exceedingly fertile and capable of producing everything. The
north end of Borneo is particularly valuable, as its produce is easily
transported from the interior, where much of the land is cultivated- I
have obtained much more information in relation to this people, in a
variety of- ways, from individuals as well as from the published
accounts, which are to be found at time5 in the Eastern prints; but as
this digression has already extended to a great length, I trust that
enough has been said to enable the reader to contrast it with the natives
who inhabit the islands that dot the vast Pacific Ocean, and to make
him look forward wqth interest to the developements that the philan-
thropic exertions of Mr. Brooke may bring to light.

Having completed our duties here, the boats were hoisted in, after

Mr

bottle tied to a flag-staff.

On the afternoon of the 12th, we got under w^ay to proceed direct to
Singapore, and passed through the channel between the reef off the

;

I

S 0 0 L O O. 365

Mangsee Islands, and those of Balambangan and Bannruev. We found
this channel clear, and all the dangers well defined.

As the principal objects of my visit were to ascertain the disposition
and resources of the Sooloos for trade, and to examine the straits lead-
ing into the Sooloo seas, in order to facilitate the comnr\unication with
China, by avoiding on the one hand the eastern route, and on the other
the dangers of the Palawan Passage, it may be as w^ell to give the
result of the latter inquiry, referring those who may be more particu-
larly interested to the Hydrographical Atlas and Memoir.

The difficulties in the Palawan Passage arising from heavy seas and
fresh gales do not exist in the Sooloo Sea, nor are the shoals so
numerous or so dangerous. In the place of storms and rough water,
smooth seas are found, and for most of the time moderate breezes,
which do not subject a vessel to the wear and tear experienced in
beating up against a monsoon.

The Straits of Balabac may be easily reached, either from Singa-
pore, or by beating up along the western shore of Borneo. When the
straits are reached, a vessel by choosing her time may easily pass
through them by daylight, even by beating when the wind is ahead.
Once through, the way is clear, with the exception of a few coral
lumps ; the occasional occurrence of the north w^ind will enable a vessel
to pass directly to the shores of the island of Panay. A fair wind will
ordinarily prevail along that island, and, as I have already mentioned,
it may be approached closely. The passage through to the eastward
of Mindoro Island may be taken in preference to that on the west side
through the Mindoro Strait, and thus all the reefs and shoals will be
avoided. Thence, the western coast of Luzon will be followed to the
north, as in the old route.

I do not think it necessary to point out any particular route through

the Sooloo Sea, as vessels must be guided chiefly as the winds blow,

but I would generally avoid approaching the Sooloo Islands, as the

* currents are more rapid, and set rather to the southw^ard. Wherever

' there is anchorage, it would be advisable to anchor at night, as much

time might thus be saved, and a knowledge of the currents or sets of

I

the tides obtained. Perhaps it w^ould be as well to caution those who
are venturesome, that it is necessary to keep a good look-out, and
those who are timid, that there does not appear to be much danger from
the piratical prahus, unless a vessel gets on shore : in that case it will
riot be long befoie they will be seen collecting in the horizon in large

numbers.

The treaty that I made with the Sultan, if strictly enforced on the

first infraction, will soon put an end to all the dangers to be appre-

2F2

366 S O 0 L 0 O.

hended from them. To conclude, I am satisfied that under ordinary
circumstances, to pass through the Sooloo Sea will shorten by several
days the passage to Manilla or Canton, and be a great saving of
expense in the wear and tear of a ship and her canvass.

On the 13th, we passed near the location of the Viper Shoal, but saw
nothing of it. It is, therefore, marked doubtful on the chart. As I
had but little time to spare, the look-outs w^ere doubled, and we pur-
sued our course throughout the night, sounding as we went every
fifteen minutes ; but nothing met our view.

On the 14th, aUhough we had the northeast monsoon blowing fresh,
we experienced a current of twenty-two miles setting to the north.
This w^as an unexpected result, as the currents are usually supposed
to prevail in the direction of the monsoon. On the 15th, we still
experienced it, though not over fifteen miles. On the 16th, we found
it setting west, and as we approached the Malayan Peninsula it was
foynd to be running southwest.

On the 18th, we made Pulo Aor and Pulo Pedang, and arriving off
the Straits of Singapore Ihove-to, to await daylight. In the morning
at dawn, we found ourselves in close company with a Chinese junk.
The 19th, until late in the afternoon, we were in the Singapore Straits,
making but slow progress towards this emporium of the East. The
number of native as well as foreign vessels which we passed, proved
that w^e were approaching some great mart, and at 5 p. m. w^e dropped
our anchor in Singapore Roads. Here we found the Porpoise, Oregon,
and Flying-Fish, all well : the two former had arrived on the 22d of
January, nearly a month before, and the latter three days previously.
Before concluding this chapter, I shall revert to their proceedings since
our separation off the Sandwich Islands.

The instructions to the brigs have been heretofore given ; but it may
not be amiss to repeat here that the object in detaching them was, that
they might explore the line of reefs and islands known to exist to the
northward and westward of the Hawaiian Group, and thence continue
their course towards the coast of Japan. Had they effected the latter
object, it would have given important results in relation to the force of
the currents, and the temperature of the water. It was desirable, if
possible, to ascertain with certainty the existence on the coast of Japan
of a current similar to the Gulf Stream, to which my attention had
been particularly drawn.

The first land they made was on the 1st of December, 1841, and
was Necker Island. Birds, especially the white tern, had been seen in
numbers prior to its announcement.' Necker Island is apparently a
mass of volcanic rocks, about three hundred feet high, and is destitute

;

f

S O O L O O. 367

of any kind of vegetation, but covered with guano. It is surrounded
by a reef, three miles from which soundings were obtained, in twenty
fathoms water. The furious surf that was beating on all sides of the
island, precluded all possibility of a landing being made. By the con-
nected observations of the vessels it lies in longitude 164^ 37' W., and
latitude 23^ 44' N-

■m

The French-Frigate Shoal was seen on the 3d ; the weather proved
bad, and they were unable to execute the work of examining this reef.
The sea was breaking furiously upon it-

On the 7th, the Maro Reef was made in latitude 25^ 24' 29" N.,
longitude 170° 43' 24" W. Bottom was found at a distance of four
miles from the reef, with forty-five fathoms of line. On the 8th, they
passed over the site of Neva Isle, as laid down by Arrowsmith, but no
indications of land were seen.

On the 11th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold determined, on ac-
count of the condition of the brigs, and the continuance pf bad weather,
it was impossible to keep their course to the northward and westward
towards the coast of Japan: he therefore hauled to the southward,
which was much to be regretted, and followed so very nearly in the
same track as that pursued by the Vincennes, towards the China seas,
that nothing new was elicited by them.

After a passage of fifty-six days from the Sandwich Islands, ihey
dropped their anchors in Singapore on the 19th of January, 1842, all
welL Here they found the United States ship Constellation, Commo-
dore Kearney, and the sloop of war Boston, Captain Long, forming
the East India squadron.

SOOLOO ARMS.

I

*'

I

;

CHAPTEE X.

CONTENTS,

COXSUL—

ENTRANCE OP THE RIVER— LANDING— VIEW FROM THE CONSULATE— GREAT VARIETY
OF COSTUMES, RACES, RELIGIONS, AND LANGUAGES— POLICE AND MILITARY FORCE-
HISTORY OP THE SETTLEMENT OF SINGAPORE— ITS GOVERNMENT- TREATY OF 1824—
POLICY OF HOLLAND-CHEAPNESS OF BUILDING— SOCIETY— ISLAND OF SINGAPORE-
TIGERS — BOTANY AND CULTIVATED PLANTS — MODE OF CONVEYANCE — CHINESE
INHABITANTS— THEIR GAMBLING— THEIR APPEARANCE AND DRESS— THEIR TEMPLE
—THEIR FESTIVAL OP THE NEW YEAR— THEIR THEATRICALS-THEIR FUNERALS—
~^ FESTIVAL OF THE SHIITE MAHOMEDANS— AMUSEMENTS OF THE GENTOOS— BANISHED
BRAHMIN-^MAHOMEDANSECTS-CONVICTS— MARKET— CURRENCY— TRADES-MALAYS—
ARMENIANS-PARSEES-ARABS-CAFFRE3— MIXTURE OF RACES— CHINESE CEMETERY
— GENTOO BURIAL-PLACE — MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY — AMERICAN MISSIONARIES -
PAPUAN SLAVES — MANUSCRIPTS — SHIP OF THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA ^CHINESE
JUNKS— TRADE OF SINGAPORE —TAXES — SLAVERY— OPIUM SHOPS — SMALL PROPOR-
TION OF FEMALES IN THE POPULATION — PENINSULA OF MALACCA — ITS GOVERN-
MENT—ITS RELIGION— MALAY CEREMONIES AT BIRTHS, MARRIAGES, AND FUNERALS
—MALAY SACRIFICES-ANIMALS OF MALAYAN PENINSULA — PROBABLE INFLUENCE

OF STEAM ON THE TRADE OF THE EAST— RAVAGES OF THE WHITE ANTS— CLIMATE

i OF SINGAPORE-SALE OF FLYING-FISH-DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE.

(360)

r

4

\

r '

»-.;■.

O

r »^

■riinn^^r^riv

CHAPTER X.

I

SINGAPORE.

1842.

On drawing near to Singapore, as has already been remarked, it
becanfie evident that we were approaching a great mart of Eastern
commerce. If this be apparent when merely approaching that place,
the impression becomes far more striking on anchoring in the road-
stead, for there we found a collection of shipping, of various sizes,
from the tiny cockboat to the stately and well-formed Indiaman.

The shipping are contrasted not only in size, but in rig and form,

from the vast hulk-like junk to the light and skipping sampan;* and
many of them were of kinds entirely new to us. Not only were a
great part of the vessels of a novel description, but their national flags
were equally strange- Many of the latter were now seen by us for
the first time, and were displayed in various ways ; some flew at each
masthead, others floated from horizontal yards, while the more civi-
lized nations were distinguished by ensigns pendent from the peak.

The variety in the style of paint and ornament was equally great.
The Chinese junks exhibited their arched sides painted in curved
streaks of red, yellow, and white ; the Siamese ships, half European
in structure and model, showed huge carved sterns ; and these were
contrasted with the long, low, and dark hulls of the prahus and the
opium-smuggler. The two latter classes perhaps excited the greatest
attention, in consequence of the w^ar they are continually carrying on
against the property and lives, as well as the morals and laws, of the
natives of the surrounding countries.

sampan is a light and easy-pulling boat, used
*m the shipping in the roads.

(3n)

372 SINGAPORE.

It is difficult to estimate the average number of vessels that are to
be seen in the roads of Singapore; for on some days they appear
crowded, while on others they are comparatively empty. While
many vessels are continually arriving and departing, the Chinese
junks alone appear as fixtures ; moVe than fifty of them were counted,
with sails unbent, yards housed, and rudders unhung, in which state
they resemble floating shops, wherein are offered for sale assortments
of every article produced or manufactured in the Celestial Empire;
samples of which, by way of sign, are to be seen hanging about them
in all directions. These junks make no more than one voyage a
year, performing their passage in either direction during the favouring
monsoon.

Unlike other ports, the water presents at first so many objects to
attract the attention, that the land and town remain unnoticed until
the curiosity in relation to those which are afloat is satisfied. On turn-
ing to view the town, its situation appears to be low, as well as that
of the island on which it is built. The highest point of the latter is not
more than five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and even this
elevation is distant, so that there is nothing to render the scenery pic-
turesque, nor has it much of the character that is styled Oriental. The
distant jungle, however, relieved by the white portions of buildings in
the European style, furnishes a landscape pleasing to the eye. These
buildings seem to be upon the very beach, while a hill in the rear is
crowned by the dwelling of the governor, near which is the flag-staflf.
The intervening space is filled with buildings, whose style holds an
intermediate place between that of Europe, and that of the Chinese and
Malays, neither of which predominates so much as to give its distinc-
tive character to the scene.

The stranger, after anchoring in the roads, is not long before he
discovers the point at which the river discharges itself; for one con-
tinued stream of boats, sampans, and prahus, is seen tending to a point
in the beach, where the entrance is partly concealed from view; neither
can he belong ignorant how large a concourse of various races is here
assembled. Our ship was crowded from an early hour, with tailors,
shoemakers, washerwomen, and venders of curiosities. The latter
brought shells, birds of paradise, monkeys, parrots, corals, and mats.
Without-board there were innumerable bumboats, bringing for sale
fresh bread, eggs, milk, chickens and ducks, both alive and cooked,
fish, fruit, and vegetables- All sued piteously for permission to come
alongside, and made a prodigious clatter. The features, dress, and
language of the venders were as various as the articles they had to
sell; and they agreed only in the common character of a dark skin.

-L^ L

I

i

t

i —6

SINGAPORE. 373

The specimen thus presented of the population of Singapore prepared
us for the sight of the motley group we were to meet on shore.

At Singapore I had the pleasure of renewing my acquaintance
with Mr. Balestier, our w^orthy consul. To him, his lady, and his
son, we are under many obligations for their kind treatment and
attention. Mr. Balestier is so wxll known among men of science in
the United States, it would be needless for me to say that from him
I derived much interesting information relative to the place, its com-
merce, &C.5 for which I here offer my acknowledgments. He was
extensively engaged in the cultivation of sugar, on a plantation of
one thousand acres, within two miles of Singapore, nearly half of
.which was under cultivation. This extent of ground he has by his
exertions reclaimed from the jungle, and it bids fair to repay the
labour and expense he has incurred in clearing and bringing it into
cultivation. He is the first person who has attempted the cultivation
of sugar at Singapore, and for his success he was awarded the gold
medal of the Calcutta Agricultural Society.

As we passed through the vessels with which the roads were
crowded on our way to the shore, the hum of voices was plainly
audible, particularly from the Chinese junks, which seemed not un-
like a human hive. On reaching the mouth of the river, as was to
be expected, the crowd thickened, and the way became more and
more obstructed, until we were fairly jammed among the sampans,
with their crowded population. The river does not exceed two
hundred and fifty feet in width. It is shallow at its mouth, and
passes through the centre, or rather divides the old from the new
town; these are connected by a wooden bridge. As far up as the
bridge, which is about one-third of a mile from the entrance, the river

is of various wudths, and its banks have been carefully built up with
stone, having steps occasionally for the convenience of landing from
the boats. A large population is on the river, dwelling in the sam-
pans, which are all crowded with men, women, and children, the

' latter naked, and frolicking in and out of the w^ater at pleasure.

These boats are ranged in rows on each side of the passage towards
the bridge, and are confined by stakes stuck in the bottom. As may
be well imagined, there are frequent accidents and misadventures,

. that call for the exercise of the lungs of this crowded multitude, yet

during the many opportunities I had of viewing them, both by day
and night, I have seldom seen a set of people apparently so contented.
~ We landed at the bridge, near which is the office of our consul, in
a large quadrangular building, one side of which faces the river.
The terms of old and new town promise a difference of architecture

2G

374 SINGAPORE.

as well as inhabitants, which they amply fulfil. The former occu-
pies the southwest or left-hand side of the river, and exhibits along
the quay a fine row of stuccoed or chunaraed warehouses. The
lower story of the greater part of these is an arcade supported by
pillars at short distances. They are only two stories high, devoid of
architectural ornament, but are convenient buildings for the trade.
On the right are to be seen the buildings appropriated to the govern-
ment offices. These are situated on an extensive parade-ground,
studded with a few fine trees. The houses having extensive porticoes,
and being adorned with flowers in large vases, have rather an elegant
appearance, but this is in part dissipated on a nearer approach. They
are usually enclosed with low walls, surmounted by iron railings,
within which are small flower-gardens, that do not, however, display

much taste.

The bridge which connects the two tow^ns is by far the most
attractive place in Singapore, for the constant passing and repassing
across this thoroughfare makes it particularly amusing to a stranger.
The consults rooms were so situated as to command a free view of
this moving panorama. The number of Asiatic nations that frequent
Singapore is said to be twenty-four, consisting of Chinese, Hindoos,
Malays, Jews, Armenians, Parsees, Bugists, besides Europeans. The
variety of costume exhibited may therefore be easily imagined, and
afforded opportunities for inquiry as well as amusement. The bridge
was particularly thronged during the first day of our visit, for it was
a holiday, both with the Chinese and Mahomedans of Hindoostan.

The trades, as is usual in the East, are carried on in the streets,
and carpenters, blacksmiths, tinners, butchers, bakers, tailors, barbers,
crockery and opium sellers, and coffin-makers, are to be met in suc-
cession. Money-changers are to be found here and there, and large
well-supplied shops are not wanting, although their narrow and con-
tracted fronts give no reason to anticipate their existence. That of
Whampoa, our comprador, was one of the largest, and it gave a better
idea of Noah's ark than of any thing else, presenting a mixture of
living animals, with every thing that is required for the artificial
wants of the shipping. In front were all the varieties of ship stores
that China and Europe could furnish ; and in the rear were poultry,
pigs, sheep, and pigeons, in pens and cages, with various parrots,
cockatoos, and monkeys, while quantities of geese, and ducks were
accommodated beneath with pools of water. Between the live-stock
and the groceries were large quantities of vegetables and fruit, be-
sides lots of bread, flour, and dough ready for the oven. The noise
occasioned by the cackling, bellowing, crowing, and bleating, with

SINGAPORE. 375

I the accumulation of filth, surprised as well as disgusted ; for although

it was reached at every tide by the water, yet there was ample neces-
sity for the use of brooms and shovels. The Chinese, though cleanly
in their persons, are far from being so in their general habits, if we may
judge from those that I have met in the places we have visited.

On landing, that which impresses a stranger most strongly, is the
' great variety both of costume and of race. Almost every person that

is encountered appears different from his predecessor, so that it is some
time before it can be decided wdiich nation predominates ; but on
reaching the old town, this is no longer doubtful, for the Chinese are
soon found to be the most numerous.

The variety of religious sects also soon become evident. All have
their places of worship, and enjoy the free exercise of their religion, so

i

that in passing around, the mosque of the Mahomedan, the temple of
the Chinese, and the churches of various Christian sects, are met with
in their turn.

The number of spoken languages is such as to recall the idea of

Babel, and to excite h desire to learn the cause of such a collection of

nations. This is partly to be found in the favourable commercial site

of Singapore, on the great highway bet^veen the Eastern and Western

nations, and in the protection afforded to all by its being under a

European power, but chiefly in the fact of its being a free port, in

every sense of the word. All are allowed to visit it without any

question being asked ; pirates of any nation may refit here, and no

doubt frequently do, without any molestation, so long as they keep the
peace.

I was much struck with the apparent absence of either police or
military force; but after some inquiry, I was satisfied, by the order and
general quiet of the multitude, that there must be a controlling power
within reach, and found the policemen under the semblance of Persians,
easily distinguishable by their neat and cleanly appearance. They are
generally better dressed than the body of the inhabitants, and are to
be known by their red and black sashes, and turbaned heads. Without
the precincts of the town, a regiment of Sepoys, six hundred strong, and
officered by Europeans, is stationed. These are to be seen habited like
English soldiers, in close-bodied red coats, than which a more inappro-
priate dress in such a climate as this can scarcely be imagined.

Before proceeding with the description of Singapore, it veill be as
well to give some account of its settlement and progress to its present
prosperous condition.

Malacca did

position

376 SINGAPORE.

about restoring the possession of Malacca to Holland in 1818. Major
Farquhar, then resident at Malacca, in that year entered into a com-
mercLal treaty ^vith Abdulrahman Shah, who had been acknowledged
as sovereign of Johore by the Dutch. By this treaty, British subjects,
or persons under the protection of the Company, had equal rights for
commercial pursuits with the most favoured nation, in the ports of
Johore, Lingin, and Rhio.

The Dutch had no sooner got possession of Malacca, and received
information of Major Farquhar's treaty, than they sent an overpower-
ing force to Rhio, where Abdulrahman resided; declared him their
vassal, annulled the treaty made with the English resident, and
dictated another wdth the sultan, bv which British commerce was
entirely excluded from the ports of the straits.

In order to counteract this attempt upon the part of Holland to keep
exclusive possession of the only passes into the Chinese seas, the
Straits of Sunda and Malacca, the Marquis of Hastings, who was then
Governor-General of India, despatched Sir Stamford Raffles to the
Straits of Malacca, to ascertain if there w^ere*not a place at the
Carimon Isles, or Singapore, of which the Dutch had not possession,
suitable for the establishment of a factory; and in this duty Major
Farquhar was associated with him.

On the arrival of Sir Stamford Raffles, he found that the Dutch had
taken possession of Rhio, as before mentioned; and it was then sug-
gested by Captain Ross, the able surveyor in the Company's employ,
that Singapore offered the most suitable location for their purpose.
About this time, Sir Stamford Raffles, while off this place, was visited
by the Tumungong of Johore, a chief hostile to the Dutch, and an
enemy to Abdulrahman Shah, The Tumungong represented that the
rightful heir w^as the elder brother, Hassain Mahomed Shah, and that
the British by treating with him would derive a right to settle from the
legitimate authority. Sir Stamford saw the force of this advice, and
determined at once to treat for the occupation of the island of Singa-
pore with Hassain Mahomed. As a preliminary to this, the recognition
of Mahomed Shah as sultan, by two great officers of the empire, was
necessary. The Bandahara of Pahang, and the Tumungong of Johore,
were selected for this purpose, and when this preliminary had been
arranged, Hussain Shah was invited over from Rhio, installed, and
recognised. The commissioners at once treated with him as the
lawful sovereign of Johore, for the cession and immediate settlement
of Singapore. This was one of the w^ise arrangements entered into by
that intelligent officer, who so long and so satisfactorily ruled over
Java. The treaty, from the hurry in which it was drawn up, was

SINGAPORE. 377

I

1

found to have circumscribed the limits of the ceded district to but a
small portion of the south coast of the island, and the jurisdiction to
extend only as far as a cannon-shot into the interior immediately

around the factory. This Hmit continued until 1824, when a cession
of the entire island was obtained, and a treaty of alHance and friendship

was concluded between the Company and the Sultan, The jurisdiction
w^as also for ever ceded to the Company of the seas and islands within
ten geographical miles of the coast of Singapore. In consideration of
these concessions, the Company gave the Sultan thirty-three thousand
dollars, with an annuity of fifteen thousand, and to the Tumungong
twenty-six thousand dollars, and an annuity of eight thousand. The
annuities were to be paid monthly; and it w^as farther agreed, that if
the Sultan or the Tumungong desired to remove at any time from the
island of Singapore to other parts of their dominions, they should be
entitled to the further sum of ten and fifteen thousand dollars, for all
their right and title to any immovable property they might possess.

This treaty secured free commercial intercourse for both parties,
with perfect neutrality in all respects, and freedom from offensive and
defensive alUances. Under this tenure Singapore is now held.

Singapore being the only free port in this part of the world, soon
attracted to it all the surrounding nations, not only on account of the
absence of duties, or of any regulations impeding trade, but as offering
a mart where they could with ease dispose of their goods, and obtain
supplies. Many of the rnost opulent merchants of the East have settled
here, and the Chinese in particular have found it to afford a suitable
field for the exercise of their trades.

The jurisdiction of Singapore, or the "Straits Government," as it
is here called, embraces Malacca and Prince of Wales Island. The
office of governor was filled during our visit, by Samuel George
Bonham, Esq., whose usual residence is at Singapore, but I had not
the pleasure of seeing him, as he was absent on a tour of duty. A
steamer is attached to this service, and enables the governor to

I communicate freely with the three ports. At each port there is a

recorder's court, for the trial of offences, and the settlement o^ com-
mercial difficulties. A chief justice, who resides at Singapore, is
the principal law officer for criminal offences, and is appointed by the

i crown. Capital punishment is referred for approval to the authorities

at home.

^

By the treaty of 1824, the Dutch gave up Malacca, which had
become useless to them, and the English bound themselves not to
make settlements on any of the islands to the sotith of it. This was
certainly a very unwise covenant on the part of Great Britain, and

VOL. V.

2G2 48

378 SINGAPORE.

showed great want of knowledge respecting the resources and geo-
graphical position of the various islands. •

This false step has been prejudicial to the interests of Great Britain,
and has entailed upon the fine islands of Borneo, Celebes, Banca, &c.,
the benighted policy that has so long been pursued by Holland. Banca,
from which England has thus excluded herself, by all accounts is said
to possess the best tin mines in the world. In this treaty of March,
1824, signed at London, it was mutually agreed that piracy should be
extirpated from the Eastern seas ; but the practice has probably ex-
isted to full as great if not greater extent in the few years that have
since elapsed, as at any previous epoch.

It cannot but appear evident that the political relations w^ith Hol-
land, which have existed, and still continue to exist, in these islands,
have had little effect in improving the state of civilization ; for although
that nation has been in possession of power for nearly tw^o hundred
years, yet the natives of the several islands are not found to be more
advanced in the arts or sciences, nor their comforts or conveniences
of life in any degree improved by its influence, although thousands of
Europeans have grown rich upon their labours. This is no doubt one
of the usual effects of a monopoly; and these islands, which are blessed
with all the abundance of God's providence, have by the grasping hand
of avarice been impoverished, and made the seat of bloodshed and
w^ant. Slavery is as prevalent, and as openly countenanced, as on
their being first taken possession of. It would be difficult for any one
to point out what good the policy of Europe in the East has brought
upon the islanders, in return for the riches that have been derived from
them.

It might be expected that English law and English justice would

exist at a place where the authority of Great Britain avowedly exists,

and over w^hich its flag waves; but this is not the case in Singapore.
No ri

no redress are to be had against the wuU of the public officer. He
may tear down a resident's house, and there is no preventive for the
wrong. Instances have occurred where the very soil has been dug off
a garden by his order, and against the wishes and consent of the
owner, because it so pleased the dignitary to will that it should be level
with the street, which had been graded a foot or two below the level
On expostulation and inquiry, no redress would be given, or damao-es
allow^ed. Fortunately, neither the land nor building is of great value,
for a hundred dollars in Singapore would go as far in the construction
of a building as a thousand with us.

Of the society we saw but little; what we did see appeared to be

SINGAPORE. 379

)

)

sociable and agreeable, but is necessarily small, being confined to but
sixty or seventy individuals.

The island of Singapore is composed of red clay, sandstone, and
in some places granite. The locality of the town appears to have
been a salt-marsh, with a narrow strip of rocks and sand near the
beach. In consequence of its rapid increase, they are beginning now
to fill up the low ground with the surplus earth taken from the sur-
rounding hills.

The highest point of Singapore is called Buhit Tima, and does not
exceed, it is said, five hundred feet in elevation. Althou^rh this hei^^ht

o o

is but seven miles distant from the town, I was told it has never yet
been visited by a European and seldom by natives, on account of the

* obstructed nature of the intervening country; there are a few small

fishing or piratical establishments (the two names are synonymous
here, for when the people are not engaged in the one, they are in the
other), on the north and west end of the island. The length of the
island is twenty-seven miles, and its greatest breadth is fifteen. It is
divided from the peninsula by the old strait of Singapore, so long
followed by navigators, for reasons it is now difficult to surmise, when

I the short, wide, and safe channel was open to them, which is now

altogether used.

-The botany of Singapore is far from being thoroughly known, not-
withstanding so many scientific expeditions have visited it; nor is it
likely to become so very soon, infested as the woods are with tigers.
It is remarkable that before the island w^as inhabited, tigers did not

exist in it, although there were great numbers of them in the peninsula

opposite ; and it is said that they have only made their appearance
here within the last six or seven years. Indeed, one of the reasons
assigned for its selection, was the absence of this ferocious animal, and
of the wild elephant. It is to be presumed, therefore, that the tigers
come in search of food, by swimming over the narrow straits. Some
fifty persons have been killed by them within the last two years, within
two miles of the centre of the town, and two hundred in all are reported

as having become victims to these beasts. Criminals and thieves were

I , • .

' formerly in the habit of escaping to the woods or jungle, but of late

years this has not been attempted by them.

The government, in consequence of the attacks of tigers becoming
so frequent, and of the jungle being so much infested by them, offered
a premium of one hundred dollars for every tiger's head that should
be brought in. This induced large parties to hunt them ; but, since
the government have reduced the reward to fifty dollars, this daring
business has not been followed ; not, however, from any scarcity of

t

380 SINGAPORE,

the animals, for ihey now frequently seize men working in the imme-
diate vicinity, but because the sum is too small to be an equivalent for
the risk and trouble. From a stuffed specimen we saw at Singapore,
it would appear that these animals do not differ from those of Bengal.
While walking with Mr. Balestier around his plantation, he pointed

F

out to us the spot where two of his men had been killed by tigers,
and he said it was no uncommon thing, when he first began his planta-
tion, to see the tracks of tigers about his house in the morning. Since
the jungle has been cut away to a greater distance, this occurrence is
not so frequent. Tigers have been known to attack persons in the
daytime, but they seldom frequent the highroad. It is considered too
dangerous for an individual to venture near the jungle-
Some accounts speak of vestiges of the primitive inhabitants of
Singapore, consisting of mounds, temples, &c., but I could not get
at any well-authenticated account of them. Some, indeed, suppose
that the island of Singapore may contain many remains of a former
race, but there Seems to be little or no foundation at present for such
an opinion.

Although it was impossible from the number of tigers for our gen-
tlemen to frequent the woods to any great extent, yet many very
interesting plants were procured here. Through the kindness of Mr.
Balestier, Captain Scott, (the captain of the port,) and others, Mr.
Brackenridge obtained many live plants, which we succeeded in
bringing safely to the United States.

The soil of the island is a stiff yellow loam, in which the nutmeg,
coffee, black pepper, chocolate, and gamboge, (Garcinia,) grow to a
great extent. The three first appear to be particularly well adapted
to the climate and soil. As I have before mentioned, the cultivation
of sugar is attended with success. Captain Scott is planting the
durian, which, independently of its fruit, yields a timber highly valued
for ship-building. This gentleman has left numerous forest trees
standing on his plantation, many of which are of large dimensions,
being full one hundred feet in height. These consisted chiefly of
species of Quercus, Myrtaceae, Melastomacese, and Rubiacese. The
undergrowth is almost impenetrable, on account of the vast number
of creeping plants which intertwine and clasp around the trees. Two
species of Nepenthe (pitcher-plants) w^ere found in the swamp, which
were preserved and brought to the United States. The Botanical
Report will embrace many more varieties, and to this I must refer the
reader for further information.

Fruit seemed to be very abundant, and it is said, that there are one
hundred and twenty kinds that can be served as a dessert': among

SII^GAPORE. 381

these are pine-apples, mangosteens, melons, bananas, oranges, &lc.
The pine-apples are remarkably fine, and not in the least acid; in
proof of which, they do not turn the knife black in cutting them, and
to eat them is considered wholesome at all hours. The season for this
fruit was just coming in at the time of our arrival, and large boat-
loads were seen lying at the quay. They are usually planted along

the roadside, and though, when small, rather stiff-looking, yet when
full-grown and in bearing, they are a pretty object. Of all the plants
we saw, the nutmeg requires and receives the greatest care. The
trees are planted in orchards, and while young have a sort of arbour
erected over them, to protect them from the vertical rays of the sun.

The gambeer (Nauclea) also claims much of the attention of the
cultivator: it is a low-sized tree, or bush, of no beauty. Its bark is
used for tanning, and it is said to be the most powerful astringent
known for this purpose. It is to be seen in the shops in the form of a
powder, of a reddish brown colour. We did not learn how this was
prepared, or how it was used: it appears, however, to be in great
demand. It is occasionally used by the Chinese, with their betel-nut,
of which there is a great consumption here, although it is not sold in
J the streets, as at Manilla ; but quantities of the nuts are seen for sale

in the market. From the leaves also a powerful astringent is obtained
by boiling.

The gamboge tree is also cultivated here, but more extensively on
the shores of the straits than at Singapore, and is a very considerable
article of trade.

The ride outside of the town to the hills is pleasant, passing through
plantations loaded with fruit, and the air at an early hour of the morn-
ing is filled with a spicy fragrance. The vivid green of the woods
and grass is also remarkable, and continues throughout the whole
year, for scarcely a day passes but a refreshing shower falls. The
roads are thus kept free from dust, and at all times in good order.
The usual mode of conveyance is in a palanquin, which is capable of
{ containing two persons. The cooley, or Hindoo who attends his

horse, usually runs by the side of the palanquin, and seldom tires.
The charge for one of these conveyances is a dollar, whether for a
whole or a part of a day, and a douceur is paid to the cooley accord-
ing to the time he has been employed. The palanquin is a very con-
venient vehicle, and its use is absolutely necessary during the heat of
the day, to shield the stranger from the burning rays of the sun* These
cooleys will run all day through it without any inconvenience. They
are principally from the neighbourhood of Madras, and are generally
about the middle size, thin, and muscular.

382 SINGAPORE.

I have mentioned that on our arrival, the whole of this motley popu-
lation seemed engaged in a festival. With the Chinese it was that
of the New Year, and with the Hindoo Mussulman the feast called
**Marama," or the search for and finding of the grandchildren of
Mohamed. The Chinese, on such occasions, give themselves up
entirely to gambling; and the first day and night I was on shore,
this part of the town might be considered as a vast gambling-shop.
During this holiday they are allowed to gamble as much as they
please, but what restriction is put upon the open indulgence of gaming
at other times, I did not learn, but from appearances I should suppose
it was not very severe.

The extent to which gaming was carried by the Chinese, could not
fail to astonish any one who had not been brought up to it. It was
extraordinary to see all engaged in such an exciting vice ; and to
watch the different Individuals was amusing. Gaming was going on
in every shop, and frequently in each particular corner, under the
colonnades, in the bazaars, and at the corner of almost every street a
variety of games were playing* Of several of these I had no know-
ledge ; some were performed with cards, and others with dice. The
stake seemed generally to be in small copper coin, called pice, about
five hundred to the dollar, each of w^hich is valued at three cowries;
but although this was the usual betting coin, the stake was sometimes
silver, and at times to a considerable amount. Those who have not
seen the Chinese play, have never witnessed the spirit of gambHng at
its height; their whole soul is staked with their money, however small
it may be in amount, and they appeared to me to go as earnestly to
work as if it had been for the safety of their lives and fortunes.

Almost every one has formed to himself an idea of a Chinese; but
to be w^ell known, he requires to be seen on his own soil, or where he
is in intercourse with his countrymen. The different individuals of
this race seemed to us to have a strong resemblance to each other,
and although this may in part be owing to similarity of dress, it is also
due to their bodily conformation. The flat chest, in particular, is
peculiar, at least to the labouring class. All of them seem active and
attentive to their business, of whatever kind it may be, and as far as
outward expression and action go, as harmless as lambs. It is some-
what remarkable, that the very sign which was put upon them by their
Tartar conquerors to mark them as a subdued race, should now have
become their national boast; for nothing seems to claim a Chinaman's
attention so much as his long queue, and the longer and blacker it is
the more it appears to claim his admiration. We frequently saw it
touching the very heels, and tied at the end neatly with a bit of riband.

SINGAPORE. 383

)

On great occasions this hangs down to its full length ; but at other
times, being somewhat in tlie way, it is wound up on the back of the
head. I have heard it asserted, that the Chinese never become bald
or gray ; but this opinion seemed to be erroneous, from what 1 saw in
this small community.

The Chinese is at all times to be found industriously employed,

I ^ except when gambling; and were it not for this latter propensity, and

his desire of cheating foreigners, has probably as few vices as exist in
any other race. Wherever he is found, peace and quietness seem to
dwell ; he moves, and has been moving for ages in the same path, and
prefers all his own ways to those of the rest of the world. We saw
the Chinese in some pleasing lights, and were much struck, on these

* festival occasions, by their attention towards their children, and the

fondness and invariable kindness with which they were treated.

Besides their seasons of festivity, it appeared that their devotion at
their temples, or josh-houses, claimed some of their time ; and we had
an opportunity of visiting the interior of one of these. The opposite
plate, from a drawing made by Mr. Agate, will give a good idea of its
exterior ; but to give it full effect, it wants the accompaniment of the

j> moving throng, and the peculiar feelings that one experiences when

surrounded with the motley groups of the East. This temple is built
near the water, of granite, brought from China, and is a conspicuous
object in the landscape. The columns in front are curiously sculptured.
The interior combines both the ludicrous and hideous. Its interior may
be said to consist of a central building, in which the principal idols
are: this is surrounded by a neatly-paved passage, which is uncovered;
in the centre are seats appropriated to the worshippers. The inner
temple was called by our cicerone, w^ho was apparently on guard, the
great temple. It is occupied by three colossal carved wooden idols,
representations of the human form, about ten feet high, and in a sitting
posture. One of these, that had a long black beard and mustaches,
was richly clothed, and painted red, with much tinsel and gilding round
the head. This idol was named " Rajerman." In front of him was a
female figure, of smaller size, richly dressed, who received from our
cicerone the name of ** Beebee." The two other figures were equal in
size to the first, and as contemptible in carving. Indeed there is not a
ship-carver in our country, who would not execute a better piece of
statuary. In front of the figures was an altar-table, on which was a
smaller one, and on the latter there were coloured wax candles and
josh-sticks burning. Some of these were made of tightly-rolled gilt
paper, that had been lighted by the w^orshippers who had been there
before us; some flow ers were also seen on the altar-tables. At the

384 SINGAPORE.

side of each of these altars were placed figures of frightful and hideous-
looking monsters, with black faces, misshapen bodies and legs, and
mouths from ear to ear, filled with enormous teeth. One hand was
armed with a battle-axe, and the other pointed to the table. These
our cicerone called " Fellow Seegurmain." There were several of
the same kind of figures, thoucjh of much smaller size, hideous enough

to^'^^' "'^"o

to put one out of all conceit even with what was well carved; for the
Chinese excel in depicting dragons and reptiles, which are occasionally,
if not well grouped, amusingly so, with both men and animals. I was
surprised to observe how little respect was paid to the place, which
was everywhere accessible; and. with the laughing and talking of
those present, and the noise of workmen, it had the air of any thing
but a sacred enclosure. The part that was uncovered was ornamented
with flowers in pots, consisting of camelias, tuberoses, &c. There
were also several old stumps, of the purpose of which I could get no
explanation, nor learn why they should be considered so sacred as to
be admitted into the temple. Notwithstanding these incongruities,
the whole had a striking and singular effect, and I may add, not an
unpleasing one.

Before ceasing to speak of the Chinese, 1 shall give a brief descrip-
tion of their mode of celebrating the New Year, although it was difficult
to follow it, and still more so to understand its full meaning. The cere-
monies consisted chiefly of processions, both by night and day, in which
the whole Chinese population seemed to be engaged. The grand one
bore a sort of silken temple, which was carried on the shoulders of
several men, with banners before and behind it, having Chinese
characters on them, and of the most gaudy colours. These were pre-
ceded by music, if such it could be called, consisting of cymbals and
gongs, on which every performer strove to strike with his utmost force,
and, if possible, oftener than his neighbour. Noise they at least created
in perfection- This procession was occasionally joined by smaller
ones, and the whole seemed to afford both to the crowd and actors as
much amusement as it did to us, to whom it was altogether new.
During the night, and particularly on that of the 21st of February, the
last day of their year, the illuminated processions were curious, as well
as amusing, and w^ere exceedingly numerous. Some of them were to
be seen in every street at the same time, and no sooner had one passed
than others were seen to follow, all hurrying along as if there were
some goal to be reached. The illumination proceeded from lanterns
of all colours, sizes, and shapes. We saw also the procession of juvenile
horsemen, consisting altogether of children. Each of them bore the
fore and hind parts of a horse in such a manner that the child repre-

SINGAPORE. 385

sented the rider. These mimic portions of the quadruped were made
of paper, and illuminated. The effect was that of a miniature regiment
of cavalry. Others were represented as if on the backs of fish, that
seemed to swim along in the crow^d. Some of the children were not
more than two years of age, and the oldest not more than five or six.
They wei'e all fantastically dressed, and some among them in European
costume, which had a grotesque elTect among the more appropriate
dresses of the East. They were led about, preceded by music, such as
it w^as, of gongs and cymbals;, and all passed by on a dog-trot.
I Tow^ards the close of the evening, some of the children had attendants

on each side, who carried the poor little fatigued creatures along, many
of whom were nearly, if not quite asleep. Whenever this procession
halted, the Chinese would load them with cakes and dulces, and
showed a kindness and attention truly pleasing- The most extraordi-
nary exhibition of the evening was an immense illuminated sea-serpent,
which we all thought fully equalled, in size and movement, the famous
New England one, and agreed in other respects tolerably well with its
description, for he had at intervals large bumps of the shape of a small
cask. These were in fact lanterns, supported by poles, and connected

together by w^hite cotton or gauze, which was here and there coloured.
The head of the monster was of large dimensions, with a wide-extended
mouth, showing its fiery tongue and rows of sharp teeth. The move-
ments of the serpent were w^ell managed, and its gyrations, Iwistings,
and windings over the people's heads, gave it a formidable look. It
appeared as if in search of an illuminated globe, representing the old
year, as the serpent is supposed to typify the new one. It was, from
time to time, permitted almost to seize the globe, which was then
hurried away, upon which the ponderous jaw^s would come together
with a crash, and then the serpent would hurry onward again in hot
pursuit. I was told that it sw^allowed the globe at the expiration of the
year, but I did not speak to any one who saw the "finale. The figure
of this serpent was from eighty to one hundred feet in length, and two
feet in diameter.

During this closing scene of the festival, all the Chinese houses were
open, and the josh-houses and idols illuminated with wax candles, and
decked with flowers and tinsel.
k Theatrical exhibitions were at the same time going forward in many

places; open sheds are erected for this purpose, where the exhibition
was entirely gratuitous. The actors, I was told, are paid by a general
subscription, w^hich also provides for the other expenses of the spectacle.
These sheds are closed on three sides, but open on that which faces the
street. The stasre is raised about six feet above the street ; the w^hole

VOL. V. 2 H 49

L

386 SINGAPORE.

is richly decorated with silk hangings, and banners with many inscrip-
tions, and illuminated with coloured lamps. The stage, which was by
no means of large size, was occupied by a table and two chairs. The
dialogue was in a kind of recitative, with an accompaniment performed
by beating w^ith two small sticks on the bottom of a copper kettle of the
shape of a coffee-pot. The person who performed this duty appeared
to direct all the spectacle, as prompter and leader of the orchestra. The
other musical instruments were the gong, cymbals, and a kind of
hautboy, the holes of which are not arranged with any view to produce
harmonious sounds. The dresses of the actors were very rich, and the
females were represented by young men or boys. The male charac-
ters were for the most part masked, but not the female ; the former
generally had long black and white beards. The principal part of the
performance seemed to consist in attitudinizing, and appeared to
interest the audience, as it did us, although according to our ideas it
was not suited to the words or sentiment; for instance, during a
pathetic part, whilst the actor was shedding tears, he would suddenly
ihrow^ up one leg, and almost kick himself on the nose ! The acting,
upon the whole, was, to our notions, in a mock-heroic style; but this
might have arisen from our not being able to comprehend the mean-
ing, for the other spectators seemed greatly interested. There was
something, however, which there was no difficulty in our understand-
ing, and this was the fighting. The two combatants draw their swords
or handle their spears, and begin turning round poking at each other
without closing, when suddenly one runs off; the other, after having
evidently informed the audience that he is the victor, then makes his

■

exit, accompanied with a most tremendous noise from both the music
and audience^ After the performance had closed, it was with difficulty
that I could determine whether it had been comedy or tragedy: which-
ever it was, it was mingled with still vaulting somersets, cart-wheel
motions, and casting themselves about, indifferent as to what part they
fell on, in niodes which I may truly say I had never seen surpassed,
either in muscular action or agility.

Several small processions were seen passing through the streets,
consisting of about fifteen persons, all of whom carried banners, with
inscriptions in golden characters, and were preceded by the usual
music* I was told that they were celebrating a marriage; but although
I followed for the purpose of observing them, and made many inquiries,
I could not ascertain any thing about the manner of conducting the
ceremonies. It seemed to be a kind of walking advertisement; and
when they passed any Chinese house of consequence, they made a five-
fold racket.

SINGAPORE. 38

The Chinese funerals nnay be occasionally seen. They are seldom
* attended by more than the six bearers, and the music, which consists

I

I

)

of u tambourine, gong, and triangle. The coffin is generally made of
some hard wood wnth scrolls at each end, and appears ponderous. It
is carried along at a very rapid pace, and the mode of evincing respect
for the dead differs strangely from ours.

The Hindoo Mahomedans appear to be as fond of theatrical shows
and processions as the Chinese ; and as the day of our landing was
also a holiday with them, we had the advantage of witnessing these
ceremonies. The subject of commemoration was the Marama, or
funeral obsequies of Hassoun and Houssien. The observance of this
forms a prominent distinction between the Shiites and the Sonnites
sect of the Mahomedan belief The former consider the caliphs who
succeeded to the power of Mahomet as usurpers of the rights of All,
and bewail annually the death of his children, slain by the emissaries
of the illegal occupant of the pulpit of the Imauns. The legend alleges
that the children of Ali were hidden in a well, and concealed from the
pursuit of their enemies by a spider, w^ho spun his web over its mouth.

* Seeing this, the bloodthirsty pursuers had passed the well several

\ times without suspecting that it contained the objects of their search.

At last, however, a lizard was heard to chuck within it, by which it
was known that some one lay there concealed : the hiding-place was
thus discovered, and Hassoun and Houssien taken out and slain.

In the procession which we saw, nearly all this sect of Mahomedans
in Singapore must have joined. A temple, some twenty-five feet high,
was carried about by thirty or forty Malays hired for the occasion.
In front of all came the guards and swordsmen, fantastically dressed,
who cleared the way.

The bold and expert manner in which these handled their weapons

j was somewhat startling to the crowd and the lookers-on. I must con-

fess that I momentarily expected to see a head hewn in two, or an arm

\ severed from the body. These were about a dozen in number; and

when they had cleared the way, they practised sham-fights among
themselves, which from their expertness and grace had a fine effect

They were followed by dancers, boys in female attire, gaudily dressed.

Next came some of the branded criminals, who were convicts, and
then the temple, with its vast piles of tinsel ornaments of paper, borne
on men's shoulders, who were concealed from view by the draperies;
then came the music, consistincf of small drums, instruments some-
what resembling clarionets, and quantities of small bells, accompanied
with a monotonous chaunt, and long trains of followers, with banners,
afterwards. This procession was very differently conducted from

388 SINGAPORE.

those of the Chhiese, for there seemed a disposition "to be rude and
overbearing to the crowd. Some noble-looking men, dressed in red
and white, with turbans* on their heads, had a very distinguished look,
particularly the Bugis from the isle of Borneo, a number of whom
were pointed out to me, who might be known by their stature- The
temple, after having been paraded both by night and day, was thrown
into the sea about four o'clock, and enth'ely destroyed. For this
singular termination I could find no explanation, except that what
had been consecrated to the Prophet was not to be defiled by the hands
of men.

In various shanties near the sea-shore, theatrical performances were
going forward, but with little spirit, for all seemed worn out with the
night and day's exertions. They were very polite and attentive to us,
getting us seats, &c. ; but, after sitting some time, we saw this was
but a sorry exhibition compared with thai w^e had seen enacted by
the Chinese; the music consisted of small drums and triangles, mixed
occasionally wMth a whistle, shrill enough to deafen, which was made
by putting the fingers in the mouth.

I w^as very much struck with the order and good behaviour existing
amonof such an incongruous mass of human beings as we saw col-
lected together, speaking a vast variety of tongues, and some who
would infallibly have been at war with each other elsewhere. Al-
though there was much noise, and various games going on, yet I did
not learn that a single quarrel had taken place.f I understood that
the rarity of quarrels between the different races and religions is more
owing to the consideration of the place being neutral ground, where
all ought to abstain from hostility, than to any effect produced by the
police.

The Hindoos of the Gentoo faith, also, have various amusements,

among which are vertical revolving swings, with four boxes or seats,

^ in which the occupants maintain a horizontal position. These are

seen among us ; but it is in the East that the fashion has originated.
The machine was awkwardly made, and with its creaking added not
a little to the general din.

Mr. Balestier was kind enough to have an exhibition for us on his

* There was one man with a green turban, which is the exclusive privilege of those in
the direct line of descent from tlie Prophet

t Rows, however, do sometimes occur on such occasions, and one took place in 1840, in
which one life was lost, and several other persons were badly wounded. It arose as the
Hindoo Mahoniedans were passing in procession near the Chinese temples, when, being-
interrupted in their march, they began to throw stones at the temple, and finally resort was
had to fire-arms ; but tlie affray was soon quelled by the police. -

SINGAPORE. 389

plantation, by his people, who are Klings, from the neighbourhood of
Madras. There are one hundred and fifty of them in his employ, and
for the purpose of indulging their fondness for theatrical exhibitions,
they have subscribed largely, and procured very costly and rich dresses
for their representations during the holidays.

On the appointed evening we repaired to the plantation, where two
large fires were made on the lawn, to throw light on the performances.
The night was dark; and after the arrival of the company, a large
white cloth w^as hung up between two stakes, sufficiently high to con-
ceal the performers. After a long delay the curtain was raised, and
the performance began. The actors were brilliantly dressed, a cap

rese'mbling very nearly the ibis, figured among the Egyptian antiqui-
\ ties, was worn, and many massive ear-ornaments; these dresses showed

brilliantly by the light of the fire, which also brought out in relief the
surrounding shrubs and trees from the dark and indistinct background,

r

producing a pretty efiect. The performance was a kind of opera.
The music consisted of a drum, cymbals, and castanets, w^hich ac-
companied the monotonous recitative. The plot was explained to me
by Mrs. Balestier: the subject was "the results of misplaced friend-

ship."

A rich, hospitable rajah, entertains a guest, who is desirous of
obtaining his only daughter in marriage, and thus securing to himself
the riches of his host- His suit is not favourably received, upon
which he enters into a plot to ruin and debase the rajah and his
family. For this purpose, after insinuating himself into the rajah's
confidence, he betrays him, and makes false accusations to a Brahmin
against him. The Brahmin at once proceeds to force the rajah to
confession, tortures his daughter and domestics, and obtaining in this

manner what he believes a confirmation of the accusation, strips him

of his wealth and power, to confer them upon the false-hearted

accuser. At this point o[ the plot, on account of the hour, eleven

{ o'clock, we were obliged to stop the performances, but we understood

that if they had been allowed to go on, the opera would have con-
tinued for three days and three nights. However much the story
may be prolonged, the plot generally closes with the triumph of the
good, and affords some instructive moral. There were many accom-
paniments to this performance, such as the mode of applying the
tortures by a Brahmin, and the performances of a clown, who showed
much cleverness, particularly in the mode of mimicking a European
in his dress and manners. The music was thought by several of our
gentlemen to resemble the Spanish, from w^hich, however, it could
not have been derived. In truth, these very operas, if so they may

2H2

390 SINGAPORE.

be called, may have been enacted some two thousand years ago, or
long prior to the dawnmg of civilization in Europe; and the con-
templation of this probability served to give additional interest to the

exhibition.

The Klings are but transient visiters to Singapore. They come, as

i r

before remarked, from the neighbourhood of Madras, remain for tv^^o
or three years, obtain a little money, and return. Their wages, and
that of labourers and servants, are but four dollars a month, out of
which they feed and clothe themselves. The cost of doing so, how-
ever, amounts to little ; for they subsist almost entirely upon rice and
sugar, if they can obtain them, and go nearly naked- Some of them
are artisans, in which case they receive the usual daily wages, the
amount of which mav be understood from the fact that half a dollar
a day was paid in the squadron to calkers.

At Singapore, we met with a Gentoo of the Brahminical caste, who
had been sent thither by the Indian government, for some defalcation.
Although of the same complexion as the other Hindoos we saw at
Singapore, his features were very different from theirs. The great
distinction was in the facial angle, which by some of us was thought
to be fully equal to ninety degrees, and in the mouth. His lips were
quite thin, and the lobes of his ears extraordinarily large, although not
perforated. This I was informed was characteristic of the Brahmins.
It was somewhat remarkable to find a person of his high caste, trans-
ported to a convict settlement ; for they generally affect to lead very
pure lives, and by the commission of any open immorality are exposed
to the loss of caste.

From the information we obtained at Singapore, from good autho-
rity, the burning of widows still takes place in Hindoostan, notwith-
standing the enactment by the British government, abolishing the
practice. The only difference is that it is done privately; and,
according to the Brahmin, it always has been continued among the
upper classes. Hook-swinging and walking on burning coals are also
practised; and our missionaries have witnessed them in Singapore.
Credulous people have strong inducements to undergo the ordeal, for
afterward, it is believed the deity will protect them from all harm. It

r

is said that the former is practised also in China.

t

According to the Brahmin, the Gentoos at Singapore are of the
fourth caste, called Seedros. There are no Brahmins to the east of
Singapore, and neither they nor the other higher classes willingly leave
their native country, for they forfeit their caste by so doing. This
Brahmin was said to be worth upwards of two hundred thousand
dollars, but was living in a miserable tenement near the temple, which

SINGAPORE. 391

)

f

latter appeared to us to resemble a Turkish mosque; but it was not so
in the opinion of the Brahmin, who pointed out the difference in the
shape of the dome, which is more flattened, and has a small lantern
apex. Into it no one was admitted but the believers in the doctrine of

the Brahmins,

There are several mosques for the different sects of the followers

of Mahomet, and the mixture of other observances among the creeds
of some of them is very great; for those who propagated the tenets of
Mahomet in ihe East, engrafted them upon many of the ancient modes
of worship. The Malay w ho is a Sonnite, disdains to have any thing
to do with the Hindoo or Shiite Mahomedan ceremonies ; and none
but those who are hired to carry the temple, join in the processions of
the latter.

I have mentioned that convicts were sent to Singapore. I was not
able to ascertain their exact number, but I believe it amounts to some
fifteen hundred. They are employed upon the public works ; and a
large prison in the suburbs of Singapore is provided for their safe-
keeping at night, or w^hen not at work. Much complaint is made in
consequence of its being situated in low and marshy ground, which
subjects the inmates to frequent sickness. Prisons in this part of the
world do not seem to have claimed the attention they have received in

F

other countries, and I heard the whole internal arrangement of their
jail spoken of as deficient both in order and cleanliness. A sufficient
number of turnkeys and attendant officers is not kept, and there is no
classification of the prisoners. Many spoke of an intention of erecting
a new jail, on account of the necessity of removing the prisoners from

the present low swampy site. Although a surgeon is appointed for
attendance on the prisoners, yet he is of little use; for every one seems
to be so reckless of life in the East, and so bent upon securing a fortune
as soon as possible without incurring death, that whatever retards the
one and puts in jeopardy the other, is looked upon with disfavour and
treated accordingly. No European looks upon the East as a home,
( and all those of every nation I met with invariably considered his

sojourn temporary. The habit of constantly expressing this feeling
ives a stranger the impression that those he meets with are devoid of
happiness and contentment, and this with comforts and conveniences,
nay, luxuries of life around them, wliich they would be very far from
enjoying in their own country.

The market was well filled w^ith venders, so much so, indeed, that
the passages through it are rendered narrow and tortuous ; the prin-
cipal article for sale w^as fish, fresh and dried, and prawns. This kind
offish is numerous and abundant. The part of the market where they

3G2 SINGAPORE.

*.e

are sold is built over the water, and being furnished with a loose
flooring, the filth is easily got rid of. The butcher-meats consisted for
the most part of pork, which is raised in large quantities. Fowls and
ducks were also very numerous. A number of eggs were seen with the
shell broken, to exhibit the dead chicken, and others that were rotten,
in which state they were favourite food of the Chinese. Vegetables and
dried fruits were also in great abundance; these latter were imported

from China. Of vegetables, there were lettuces, onions, garlic, sweet-
potatoes, and large quantities of germinating rice, which is sold for
planting. Of the quantities of fresh fruit it is almost impossible to give
an adequate idea, and they are all of fine kinds, many of which I had
never before seen.

The bazaars form the general resort of those who frequent the
market. Every avenue, arcade, or veranda approaching it is filled with
money-changers, and small-ware dealers, eager for selling European
goods, Chinese toys, and many other attractive curiosities. It is neces-
sary to be careful in making even the smallest offers, for although it
may be but half or a fourth of what is asked, it is instantly accepted.
The money-changers seem to be a peculiar class ; they are much
darker in colour than the rest of this singular throng, and are seen
sitting cross-legged on their tables, with extensive rouleaux of copper

coin, heaps of cowrie-shells, and some silver.

I was much surprised at the great difference existing in these
countries, when compared to our own, in respect to the coin, which is
divided into pieces of extremely small value; and I could not help
viewing this contrast as tending to show the depreciation of labour on
the one hand, and the value both of time and money on the other.
Indeed, the difference between the condition of these people and that
of our own countrymen might be likened to the difference in the value
of the smallest of the coins that is circulating in the two regions. One
cannot but look upon these Eastern nations rather as allied to the
animals subservient to the wants of man, than as belonging to the

o a

human race^ The majority of them are as industrious as bees, and
seem to employ their time very much after the same manner, in
collecting food, without any farther end in view but storing up materials
wherewith to live.

The trades are chiefly engrossed by the Chinese, particularly those
that are sedentary, and performed within doors. The calkers, and
those vocations connected with vessels, are generally Hindoos of a
peculiar class. Some of these w^ere employed in the squadron, and
they also work as cooleys and labourers. They are very spare and
thin, and have little flesh to trouble them ; indeed, their thighs, and

SINGAPORE. 393

J arms, and the calves of their legs, seemed to be dried up; their

shoulder-blades arc proaiinent, and their ribs conspicuous. This habit
of body is, undoubtedly, owing to their diet, which consists almost
entirely of rice; they abstain altogether from the use of meat, and
indulge but sparingly in that offish. They are very scrupulous about
the preparation of their food, bringing with them their own vessel to
cook their rice, and refusing to use those which oiir people had cooked
in. They are easily to be know'n by a small blue line of tattooing
down the forehead, or a spot made with earth. What idea is connected
with this custom 1 did not exactly learn, but I understood that it was
always their custom thus to protect themselves when working for
persons of an opposite faith. They were found to be steady and good
workmen, and received fifty cents a day for their labour.

The Malays seem to bear the palm for idleness among the common
people, and are rarely found engaged in any steady employment, pre-
ferring those that are either light or of a roving character. They
engross the occupation of the drivers of palanquins, are strong and

I

active, and will run a great length of time and distance, in a hot and
. oppressive day, seemingly without inconvenience. Those of the latter

i sort who are more wealthy, indulge in many luxuries, particularly in

dress. They usually wear mustaches, which are always neatly kept,
and occupy no small portion of their attention and time; and, con-
trasted with the white turban, with its band of scarlet and gold, has a
particularly pleasing effect, wnth their swarthy skins. On holidays
they are to be met with in their snow-w^hite raiment, thrown over a
richly-embroidered coloured vest, fitting tight to the body, with loose
trousers, tied just to meet their embroidered slippers at the ankle.

The Malay population dwell chiefly in the suburbs, or what are

termed the Malay villages. Their houses are built somewhat after

;; the fashion heretofore described, on posts, as practised by this race in

Other places; but there are many who conform to the European mode.
{ Nearly all of them are cultivators, and almost every house has a small

shelf appended to its window^ on which unhulled rice (known here as
paddy) is exposed for sale. Besides this, many have dried fish, vege-
tables, and, in these days of rejoicing, Chinese fire-crackers. The
villages through which we drove had a joyous look, and the population
was apparently occupied in amusing themselves during the holidays.
Some were engaged at foot-ball, and many of the boys and men were
playing " hobscob."

The most distinguished men as to looks are the Armenians, who are

among the principal merchants of the place. Although few^ in number,
yet they have much influence from their weaUh ; they are an exceed-

VOL. V. 50

394 SINGAPORE.

ingly handsome race, dress after the English fashion, and generally
speak English or the Portuguese fluently. Some of them, that I had
occasion to visit, were extremely courteous, but spoke of ihe inhabi-
tants of Singapore generally as of a low class.

The Armenian church is one of the finest buildings in the place:
service is held in their church every morning at six o'clock.

Just before our arrival, one of the Armenians was detected in an
extensive forgery, by the water-mark of the paper. It had not been
decided what punishment was to be inflicted upon him, and it was
an act of which the government was not prepared to take cognizance.
From what I heard, I was inclined to oelieve that the influence of his
friends was so great, that by their intercession the punishment that is
so ready at all times to be inflicted on the poor, would not be inflicted ;
yet even-handed justice to all is here made a great boast of.

Parsees are not numerous at Singapore, but they rank among the
most wealthy of its inhabitants. They are dressed partly after the
Eastern and partly after the European fashion. They excited our
attention as being worshippers of fire, which they venerate as emble-
matical of the Deity. They are of various shades of colour, and
generally more robust and portly than the other races. Many of them
speak the English language.

.Some persons, who were said to be Arabs from the east coast of
Africa, were also pointed out to me, who were quite different from all the

J

other races. They had what would be termed .woolly hair, with large
whiskers, and one of them was remarkable for his large blubber lips.
Their complexion did not strike any of us as being much darker than
that of the Hindoos or Malays. Their face was long, and the nose by no
means prominent: one of these had a strange appearance about his
head, and it was some time before it was discovered that it was owing
to his beard and whiskers, which were long, being in gray and black
stripes. Although it was undoubtedly done by some artificial process,
yet it seemed quite natural.

Individuals of the Caffre tribe, from the east coast of Africa, were
also met with ; and it is said that there are many of them in Hindoo-
stan, whither they have been carried by the English from Mozam-
bique; but they are rarely met with so far cast as Singapore. They
resembled those seen by us at Rio, though we had no opportunity of
identifying them by their tattooing.

The Chinese burial-place is about a mile from the town, situated on
the side of a hill, at the apex of which is the josh-house, which, as
usual, is filled with hideous idols. This building has a light and
pretty effect, principally arising from its situation.

SINGAPORE. 395

»

^

\

This burial-place is almost filled with graves; and there was a
small bench or platform in front of many of the tombs, on \vhich were
the remains of josh-sticks, which, I was told, w^ere here burnt annually,
in remembrance of the dead. The Chinese appear to be fond of
monumental inscriptions, for there were but few graves without one.
I was very desirous of hearing some of these translated, but w^e had
no interpreter with us.

On our road to Mr, Balestier's, we passed the burying-place of the
Gentoos: it is quite open, and apparently a dense shrubbery; but
near the towm end is a chunam pedestal, surmounted with a lotus,
for a drawing of which I am indebted to Mr. Peale: this sketch will
be found at the end of this chapter. On its sides are inscriptions in
Cingalese, and one in English, the latter of which states that " This
burying-ground belongs to the Hindoo people of Madras and Singapore.
1828.'^ The design was tasteful, but our admiration was somew^hat
lessened on finding that the material is not stone, to which it has a
very strong resemblance.

I spent a large portion of a day at the magnetic observatory, which
is under charge of Lieutenant Elliot, of the Indian army. The instru-
ments were all apparently well mounted ; but I was somewhat surprised
at observing that several chronometers were used for marking time,
when it could have been more conveniently and accurately made by a
single clock.

Lieutenant Elliot was erecting an apparatus to collect and develope
atmospheric electricity, but he had not, as he informed me, been able
to succeed. Considering the station was a magnetic one, it w^as sur-
prising to me that he should be trying such experiments, when the
two agents of electricity and magnetism are so nearly allied, and
especially that he should have done it in such immediate contact wdth
the instruments. The observatory is situated about two miles from
Singapore.

At Singapore there are three American missionaries, Mr. North,
Mr. Hepburn, and Mr. Dickinson ; the former, who has resided here
six years, is the principal. The two first have a school of fifty Chi-
nese boys; but as it w^as vacation time, we had no opportunity of
seeing them at their exercises, Mr. North spoke to several of our
gentlemen in high terms of the intelligence of the Chinese children.
The Chinese boys are received at an early age, and board in the
family of the missionaries, to whose guidance they are w^holly given
up by their parents. They seldom visit their parents, and never
without a special request. These children are taught the rudiments
of an English education, but no efforts are made on the adult popu-

396 SINGAPORE.

lation. The hope is, that the results of educating the young, and

impressing them with the truth of the Bible, will be apparent in after

years, and may conduce to some good. Only one of the scholars has

as yet been baptized. They are all represented as well-behaved and

docile.

The Singapore Institute, another academical establishment, is under

the care of the Rev. Mr. Montgomery, an English missionary- It is

delightfully situated on the public ground fronting the bay. There are

in it about one hundred boys, who are taught on the monitory system.

The branches here taught are those comprising a common school

education : there are no schools for the higher branches.

Although the Protestant missionaries have not met with any success

in propagating their tenets, this cannot be said of the Catholics, who

have already made one hundred and fifty proselytes to their faith.

There is likewise a very interesting establishment here under the name

of the Raffles School, of which Mr. Dickinson, the third American

missionary, is principal. These gentlemen have given up their more

direct missionary employments, as it afforded no prospect of success,

and turned their attention to the more immediately useful object of

teaching the children. They are know^n in Singapore as the ** Ameri-

r

can padres." The Raffles School is kept in a.palace^ooking building,
but as houses are of small value, the rent is proportionably low,

Mr, Dickinson made the voyage in the brig Himmaleh to many of
the islands in the China seas, and possessed much information in rela-
tion to those he had visited, and their inhabitants. It appeared to be
his impression that there was no opportunity afforded for missionary
labours in any of the ports under the authority of the Dutch. There
is a mission established at or near Batavia, and this is the only place
they will permit one to exist, in order that it may be immediately
under the eye of the government. Mr. Dickinson is of opinion that
an establishment is much needed on the island of Celebes, and that it
would be productive of decided good. It seems scarcely possible to
believe that any European nation should have held possession of these
islands so long, and not have introduced a single valuable custom
among those w^ho are under their rule. The natives in fact are now
as much at liberty to pursue their infamous acts of piracy on each
other and Europeans as ever, and to capture and carry into slavery
such as they deem fit. These slaves even find their way to Singa-
pore, where they are not even aware that they are free by the laws of
the land, in defiance of which they are held in slavery. These are of
the race of Papuans or Negritos, a portrait of one of whom has been
given in the chapter on Manilla.

1

SINGAPORE. 39

M

\

t

manuscripts, forming a collection which is said to be the largest now
in being, that of Sir Stamford Raffles having been lost. Some of them
are beautifully written.

One of the most amnsing incidents that occurred during our stay at
Singapore, w^as a visit to a ship of the king of Cochin-China, which
we made by express in\^itation. The whole trade of Cochin-China is
a monopoly in the hands of the king who owns the ships, which like-
wise compose part of his navy. They are built after the European
mode] of some half a century back. The vessel that furnished it
belonged to France, and w^as wrecked on their coast many years ago,
after which missionaries and artisans were sent out bv Louis XVL,
who taught them many of the arts of Europe, The outward form of
the old French ship appears to h^ve been pretty w^ell imitated, but the
stern is more elaborately carved and ornamented with gilding. The
internal arrangements also show a great variation from the model,
and in them the notions of the Cochin-Chinese prevail, unniixed with
those of Europeans. The two ships were about five hundred tons
burden ; they are very roughly built, have huge sterns, and exceed-
ingly thick sides. Indeed every thing on board is unsightly, and all
the w^ork is of the rudest description, giving no very high idea of the
proficiency of the mechanics of Cochin-China.

These vessels have a middle deck, which is pierced for guns. The
cabin, into w^hich we were shown, had a josh-temple, and with josh-
sticks burning- There were two cabins; that under the poop had small
rooms, and was very low between decks. There were no fixtures, but
simply a mat to lie on. The binnacle is a bed of sand, in which the
compass-box is set for security; and a number of small, coloured sticks
were stuck into the sand, which were represented to be markers, by
which the way of the vessel w^as noted. A manuscript chart, which
the captain took great pride in exhibiting, w^as shown us. This w^as
evidently a copy of an English on^^ but all the names were in Chinese.
The crew had a decided Malay look, and were small men; they are
in form stout, but are not athletic. There did not appear to be any
mixture of races among them. As we passed around the deck, we
observed a party of five or six of the men engaged in gambling with
cards, in which they were so much engrossed, that they heeded not
the command of their officers to desist and make room for us. This
I'essel was furnished wuth rattan-cables, which were exceedingly well
made. The wheel for steering appeared odd, on account of its small
size, and the helmsman sits when he takes his trick. . On either side of
the deck, just abaft the foremast, there is a cook-house, formed of a

21

398 SINGAPORE.

huge box of earth, about three feet above the deck, in which a few
large stones are set to support their earthen cooking vessels.

The officers and men have but a small pittance of pay. The captain,
for instance, I was told, received only three dollars a month. A super-
cargo or factor is appointed for each voyage, and is obligated to do all
the business for his master, and take charge of the whole commercial
enterprise without receiving any of the profits for the success of the
undertaking; he is also held to be responsible, and his property is
accountable likewise for any depreciation in the foreign market ; and
if any suspicions fall upon him of mismanagement, he is sure of the
bastinado on his return. The consequence is, that the king of Cochin-
China is a successful merchant, grows rich on his commercial specula-
tions, and is always well served. The recompense of the factor is but
a small quantity of rice. ^

Four or five of his ships resort annually to Singapore, loaded with
sugar, cofl^ee, ivory, and many other articles of less importance, in
return for which they take British and India goods, fire-arms, iron,
glassware, &c. I have been informed that his success in trade has
been such that out of its profits within a year he has added a steamer
of six hundred tons to his navy.

Almost every one has some idea of the external form of a Chinese
junk ; but the arrangement of the interior, although of great antiquity,
was new to us all. From the appearance of every thing on board, the
arrangements cannot have changed much in the lapse of many centu-
ries. The junks are of various sizes : the three that were visited were
from seventy-five to eighty feet in length, about twenty-two feet beam,
and about eighteen feet high forward, descending in a curve to within
three or four feet of the water amidships, and then again rising in a
like curve to the height of twenty-five feet. At the top of the stern is
the poop-cabin, with accommodations for the master, his clerk, and the
trader, in four small sleeping-rooms ; under these are other cabins, with
an eating apartment, and before this is a platform or small deck, from
which the vessel is steered* The rudder is an extraordinary piece of
w^ood, fully equal, in point of size, to that of a line-of-battle ship. While
in port it is always unshipped, and drawn into the vessel on a small
inclined slip or w^ay. The junks have usually two large masts, with a
jigger, and there are no less than three windlasses, which are used
upon every occasion ; without these the junks would really be almost
unmanageable. In order to preserve the vessel dry, they have waist-
boards of solid thick plank, which are unshipped in port ; these reach
from the plank-sheer to the rail, and from appearances effectually
answer the purpose for which they are intended. The cargo, however.

SINGAPORE. 399

I

was more inferestino: to us than the vessel : this consisted chiefly of teas
and china-ware; the latter, to our surprise, we found neatly and care-
fully stowed in bulk in the hold. The lighter articles of Chinese manu-
fVicture are arranged about the vessel, and even hang over the poop and
sides. The wooden anchors, cables, grass ropes, odd and curious
paintings, the grotesque mode of external ornament, with the large eye
on either bow in the colours of the rainbow, did not fail to attract our
attention. We were also amused with the junk-like form of the tiny
boat, but these, as well as the Chinamen themselves, are so well repre-
sented in Chinese pictures, that ho one can be at a loss to conceive
their peculiar form. Words fail to express the content and pride with
which the Chinaman sits and enjoys his aquatic excursions; and though
ridiculous in appearance, and ill fitted in every way to contend with the
elcinents, yet there is something about the junks that commands a
certain degree of respect.

The trade of Singapore, although it has but lately grown up, has
nevertheless reached the large aggregate of $24,500,000. About one-
sixth of this amount goes to Great Britain, and 8600,000 to conti-

— d

nental Europe. There are no duties on imports or exports, and every
vessel is left free to come and go as they please; all that is asked is of
what the cargo consists, its value, and the size of the vessel. These

r

particulars are published weekly in the only paper. Every thing is
sold for cash, or on a very short credit, and all accounts are kept in
dollars and cents. Perhaps in no other port is business conducted in
so prompt a manner as at Singapore, and this has probably grown out
of the transient character of the visiters of all nations, who come and
go as they please, which makes it necessary to receive payment for
the goods as soon as they are delivered.

From what has been already said, it will appear that very little of
the importance of Singapore is owing to its own productions; yet
there are many things shipped here that are the product of the Straits,
or of the territory under the Straits Government, as it is called.
Among these are pepper, cloves, sugar, nutmegs, coffee, and gambeer,
to which may be added the betel-nut. These products are procured
from Pinang and Prince of Wales Island, and reach a large amount.
Tortoise-shell may also be included in this trade, for almost all that
is taken in the Eastern seas is now brought to Singapore for sale;
and it may indeed be said to be the chief mart of that article. Any
attempt to give a catalogue of the trade of Singapore would fall short
of the truth, for it may be considered as an entrepot where all articles
arrive and are distributed. The expenses of doing business are esta-
blished and published in the gazettes, so that any one may inform him-

400 SINGAPORE.

self of the charges he is liable to incur, and of the advantages it has
in that respect over the other ports in the Eastern seas. What renders
the traffic at Singapore still more convenient is, that almost every
thing is sold by weight, probably because so large a proportion of the
population is fronri China, in which country this method is habitual.
In employing it, however, the articles from different countries are sold
by the weiglit of the country whence they come. For instance, gold-
dust being for the most part brought by the Malays, is sold by their
weight, called a " bunghal," which is about equal to two ounces ; rice,
&c., the produce of Bengal, is sold by the bag, containing one hundred
and sixty pounds, which is teruied a " maund." The foreign business
is gi^nerally in the hands of a few English houses, but the greater part
of the mercantile class at Singapore are engaged as agents, or do a
commission business, for various houses in Europe, Calcutta, &c*
There is a branch of the India Bank at Singapore, which, however, is
limited in its discounts and business; and there are besides a large

number of insurance offices, in which policies may be effi^cted on
almost any risk. The capital of .these companies is for the most part
owned in Calcutta.

Although Singapore has fewer real advantages for trade than many

of the ports around, yet it has now acquired the superiority, and holds
intercourse with the surrounding countries.

Its trade with China has of late much increased, in consequence of
the difficulties between that country and England, during which it
was the only port where the junks w-ere allowed to trade free of
molestation. It in consequence became for the' time a place of tran-
shipment for teas and other Chinese articles to English vessels. For
this reason, Singapore may have appeared to us a more active place
of business than it would have done had the trade with China been no
more than ordinary. No large commerce can well exist between
China and Singapore alone, for the supplies the latter furnishes to that
empire, are confined to birds'-nests, biche de mar, tortoise-shell, &c.

Borneo probably furnishes the most valuable products that are
brought to Singapore, and there are more than one hundred prahus
engaged in the trade. These are for the most part navigated by
Bugis from the island of Celebes, who may be termed the carriers of
this archipelago. This people frequent all the ports on the south and
southwest side of that great island, and are frequently employed by
the rajahs or chiefs to conduct their trade with the other ports. The
restrictions they are under in visiting the Dutch possessions, and the
restrictive policy of the latter, which admits them to but one or two
ports, has driven them to seek that of Singapore, though more distant.

r

I

SINGAPORE. 401

These prahus are said when trade or employment fails, to turn their
attention to piracy, if a favourable opportunity should offer; though
no one seemed disposed to class them as pirates of the same character"
as the Malays, but rather to look upon them as generally inclined to
be peaceable.

The island of Celebes sends to Singapore nearly a hundred prahus
annually, and they also come from Flores, Timor, Amboyna, Sumbawa,
Lubols, and even from Papua and Aroo. From the latter countries
they bring the bird of paradise, so abundant in the market of Singa-
pore. The prahus that come annually from these distant ports are
not more than fifty in number.

With the ports of Sumatra and Java there is a great deal of inter-
course, and I was told that the native vessels engaged in it, indepen-
dently of those belonging to Europeans, amount now to some six
hundred. These are of various sizes, and keep up a constant inter-
course, some of them visiting the ports several times during the yean
These arrive from both coasts of Sumatra, and belong to the rajahs
or chiefs of 'small places, of which even the names are little known,
and whose subjects are mostly engaged in piracy. The island of Bali
likewise engages in this trade, through the agency of the Bugis. The
products of the Malayan peninsula, and of all the ports of the Malacca
Straits, are also brought to Singapore ; but these may be termed
incidental supplies, for they fluctuate much, both in quantity and value-

The most regular of all the trade is that with the islands of Rhio
and Lingin, in the neighbourhood on w^hich the Dutch have a factory.
This trade is carried on in the sampan boats, and the people of these
places prefer resorting to this free port to dispose of their produce,
rather than sell it to the Dutch. The number of the x^essels employed
in this traffic was represented to me to be somewhere about five hun-
dred. The articles brought from all these places are very much the
same, and consist of pepper, rice, camphor, sago, coffee, nutmegs, oil,
tobacco, w^ax, benzoin, sea-weed, dragon's-blood, biche de mar, birds'-
nests, tortoise-shell, diamonds, gold-dust, pearls, the pearl-oyster-shell,
sandalwood, rattans, ivory, some hides, and articles of native manu-
facture, such as sarongs (worn as a wrapper, w^hich come principally
from Celebes), salendongs, and lacquered ware.

The foregoing detail exhibits a vast variety of articles of commerce.

and accounts for the employment of the fifteen hundred, or two thou-
sand vessels of various sizes, that are continually pouring into this
mart. It may readily be imagined what a stir and life this commerce
must create ; and when it is considered that nearly all the various
nations of the East resort here for the purpose of trade, it will not
VOL. V. 212 51

402 SINGAPORE.

excite much astonishment that Singapore has grown up so rapidly in
the face of older and longer-established marts, which it bids fair to
surpass, both in wealth and importance.

The taxes on property at Singapore are by no means heavy. They
are in part levied upon houses and carriages; the former pay an annual
tax of eight per cent, on an assessed value; but as this valuation is
very low, the tax is not heavy. In the country, the rate is only four
per cent. These receipts are published annually, in conformity with
a law^ passed since 1839. The enactment of this law was brought
about by the force of public opinion, and the influence of the tax-
payers, which have compelled the Indian government thus to make
known their financial secrets. The whole amount of tax raised is
$25,829.

Another act w-as passed about the same time for the abolition of
slavery, under an understanding with the holders of slaves that they
should be manumitted by a certain time. This time arrived only a
few months prior to our arrival, but the owners showed little or no
disposition to carry their agreement into effect. A notice from Go-
vernor Bonham w^as indeed published, calling upon them to comply,
but such is the force with which they apparently cling to slave-holding,
that I was told that many of those who were most forward in their
protestation in favour of abolition, still retain those belonging to them,
and that many persons are yet actually sold. These will no doubt
be held in bondage until some active measures are taken by the Straits
Government lo put a stop to the traffic.

We saw some of the Negritos who are held as slaves: their stature
is quite dwarfish when compared with the surrounding crowd. Their
complexion is not darker than that of the Hindoos, and entirely diffe-
rent from the hue of the pure negro; but they far surpassed him in
ugliness. According to an intelligent gentleman's authority, they are
brought from Papua, and are usually spoken of as being brought by the
Bugis, in the same vessels that bring birds of paradise for sale- Fur-
ther inquiry satisfied me that they are captured on the west end of
New Guinea, which coast the biche de mar fishers are in the habit of
visiting. Besides being distinguishable by their small size, they may
be known by their downcast looks, as they are seen passing among
the crowd of this great Babel without appearing to be of it.

Among other sources of revenue is the vending of opium: the shops
are licensed by the government, and the revenue is said to exceed
eight thousand dollars from this source alone.

These opium shops are among the most extraordinary sights in
Singapore; it is inconceivable with what avidity the smokers seek

/

SINGAPORE. 403

this noxious drug at the shop windo^vs. They then retire to the
interior, where a number of sickly-looking persons, in the last stage of
consumption, haggard, and worn down with care, are seen smoking.
The drug is sold in very small pieces, and for ten cents enough to fill
a pipe once is obtained. With it are furnished a pipe, a lamp, and a
couch to lie on, if such it may be called. The pipe is of a peculiar
construction, and is in part of metal, having an interior or cup just
large enough to contain a piece of the size of a pea. The opium is
diflicult to ignite, and it requires much management in the smoker to
obtain the necessary number of whiffs to produce intoxication in one
habituated to its use. The couch is sometimes a rude bench, but
more often a mat on the floor, w^ith a small raised bench. Each of
these mats in the frequented shops is generally occupied by a pair of
smokers, w^ho have a lamp between them.

These shops with their inmates formed one of the most disgusting
spectacles I saw during our extended cruise; although, to one who
could be amused with human degradation, this sight could not have
failed to afford pastime.

Itw^as not difficult even for a stranger to distinguish those who have
long indulged ic this pernicious practice, from those to whom it is yet
new. The eagerness with which the former sought the mat, seized
the pipe, and inhaled the smoke, showed a nervous anxiety to reach
that point where forgetfulness should come* This in the novitiate
was but the w^ork of a few minutes, while those whose organs had
become accustomed would draw long whiffs and puff away until the
weakened state of their lungs would betray them, and cause them to
stop to renew their breath before they were enabled to accomplish
their wishes. I learned that many of the old smokers found so great
a difficulty in inducing the action of the smoke that they were accus-
tomed to have recourse to swallowing the drug itself. The Chinese
only are addicted to this practice: the Gentoos and those of the
Moslem faith look upon it with great horror and disgust.

The individuals whom I have described above are the wealthy, who
can afford to smoke the drug as it is found in commerce. From the
difficulty with which it burns there is a large residuum left, which is
carefully taken out of the pipes, and sold to the less opulent, who in
like manner smoke it, though without the luxury of mats and lamps.
I was told that there is still a poorer class of Chinese, that again use
the residuum of this second smoking.

The Chinese at Singapore possess every facility for full gratification
in the smoking of this deleterious drug ; for there is no interdiction to
its introduction, and most, if not all the vessels engaged in smuggling

404 SINGAPORE.

it, resort there in their passages to and from Bengal, and many of
them are owned or under the agency of the merchants of this place.
It is not a little remarkable that even those who are entraged in the

&"&

trade, condemn its immoral and hurtful results, while others at a
distance offer many reasons in its defence. I must say that it appears
to me truly strange that with the scenes that daily offer themselves
in Singapore, before ihe eyes and under the cognizance of the
governor and officers of the place, some steps should not be taken to

put a stop to the practice altogether, instead of making it a source of
revenue.

This government seems to be actuated by totally opposite principles
from all others that attempt colonization ; for while it has been consi-
dered necessary in other places to introduce females In some propor-
tion to males, for the purpose of softening the manners and the savage
propensities of our sex, they have been here interdicted almost alto-
ether. I made many inquiries respecting the reasons that had
induced so extraordinary a course, but all appeared to be equally
ignorant with myself.

The population, from the most authentic returns, is in all about
sixty thousand souls : of these forty-five thousand are Chinese, eight
thousand Malays, seven thousand natives of India, and about one
hundred and fifty foreigners; and only one4enth of the whole are
femalfes.

A short description of the Malayan peninsula will be a proper

sequel to the account of the island of Singapore. What is usually

included under this name extends as far as latitude 7^ N. It is

nearly five hundred miles in length, by about one hundred and fifty

miles in width, and comprises about fifty thousand square miles. It

is mountainous and hilly, and destitute both of extensive valleys and
plains.

A range of mountains traverses its whole length, rising gradually
towards the north, to the height of about six thousand feet. Its
geological formation, from the best reports, is exclusively granite;
which towards the south has been found to contain many minerals,
and the ores of gold and tin in particular. In the latter metal, it is
supposed to be the richest of any country in the world. In other
respects it cannot be called a favoured region, and in comparison with
the surrounding countries is barren. The greater portion of it is still
occupied by the primeval forest, which is frequented only by beasts of
prey.

The Malayan peninsula, and the surrounding islands, are now^ far
less populous than they formerly were. Intestine wars among the

SINGAPORE. 405

chiefs have, in fact, nearly depopulated the former, and what they have
left undone, the pirates in their incursions on the weakened towns, have,
by their cruel deeds of murder and rapine, completed. The part of the
peninsula that is tributary to the king of Siam has fared but little
better ; for his extortions are said to know no bounds. Some accounts
state that the Malayan peninsula has once been the seat of civilization,
and that various mines have been discovered, by some of the few
travellers who have made short excursions from its coast. It is
alleged, on the other hand, that both it and Singapore were colonized
as late as the twelfth century, by the people of Sumatra; other conjec-
tures, said to have some foundation in the traditions of the natives,
state them to have been inhabited previously to that epoch, by a half-
savage race, which had the features of the Papuans. Other accounts
. again, assert, that the aborigines were the Jakongs, or Rayetutans, in
the interior, and the Rayetlaut, or fishermen, on the sea-shore.

The Malayan peninsula contains nine petty states, each of which is

ruled by a chief, who acknowledges the authority of the king of

Johore. The Dutch, however, formerly had through commercial

treaties much influence with the chiefs, and with the consent of the

' king of Johore, elected a Bugis chief, by the name of Dyar Cambodia,

* over the nine stales. This produced a division and contentions: four

of them revolted, and invited over a prince of the royal blood from
Sumatra, Rajah Malayan, whose party was finally successful, and
drove Dyar Cambodia into retirement. Upon this, stipulations w^ere
entered into, by which it was agreed that the four chiefs should be
assembled by the sovereign to consult on the affairs of state, and that a
majority should rule. In return they w^ere to provide for the mainte-
nance of the sovereign, by levying an annual tax on the inhabitants,
each house contributing annually one gantam of rice, two cocoa-nuts,
and one suku-

On the occasion of all rites, such as marriages, deaths, and circum-
cisions in the royal family, each district was bound to send three
buflaloes, to distribute alms to the poor, and in case of war io furnish
its quota of men, arms, and ammunition. Dyar Cambodia sought
refuge at the island of Rhio in 1773, Since that time the kingdom has
undergone various revolutions, and different sovereigns have held rule,

who have finally by their intestine w^ars almost depopulated the
country.

The inhabitants have many singular customs, in some respects not
unlike those heretofore described as existing among the Polynesian
islanders.

In religion, the Malays of the Peninsula are all Moslems, and are

406 SINGAPORE.

said to resemble the Arabs in the simplicity of their worship more than
they do the inhabitants of Hindoostan. They practise circumcision,
and the women appear in public unveiled. They hold three days in
the week as lucky to begin an undertaking, namely, Monday, Thursday,
and Friday. They devour locusts, and consider buffalo-meat as the
greatest luxury.

As soon as a child is born and washed, the father puts his mouth to
its ears and asks a blessing. On the seventh day, the operation of
shaving the head takes place, when prayers are likewise offered up. A
midwife is always in attendance at the birth, and is engaged for forty
days. On the fortieth day the mother performs her ablutions and
prayers, and is then looked upon as clean.

It is customary on an engagement of marriage for a day to be fixed
for the bridegroom to transmit the money for the nuptial expenses,
before which day the ceremony of filing the teeth of the woman is
gone through. This is performed by the women with a kind of fine
stone found at Acheen, or with a small steel file. The operation is
accomplished in an hour, but is very severe ; the teeth are filed off to
one-fourth of their length. This operation is also undergone by the
males ; but they encounter it at an early age, when it is generally made
an occasion for festivities, I have been informed that this operation is
never omitted, and that the figure thus given to the teeth is considered
as a great beauty. After the teeth are filed, they are blackened, which
is efTected by a liquid called grang, obtained by charring cocoanut-
shells. This practice of filing the teeth I had often observed before I
heard of its being a general custom among the Malays of the peninsula,
having seen it among the natives of Sooloo; the fashion closely
resembles the Africans of which I have spoken in the first volume.

Marriages are preceded by the betrothal of the parties. To make
this arrangement, the friends of the bridegroom wait upon the bride's
father, to whom they present a ring and a few clothes. The nuptial
expenses are then agreed upon, and the portion of the bride is set
aside. This is about thirty rupees, and is always paid in silver or
gold. The betrothal takes place before witnesses and an agent of the
bride, whose consent is asked as a matter of form. After this the
husband may take his wife whenever she arrives at the age of puberty,
and carry her to his own house ; but she always remains with her father
until that event takes place.

On these occasions, w^hen the parties are wealthy, a feast of buifalo-
meat is given. The bride, three days before marriage, cuts off her
hair in front, and dyes her nails and the palms of her hands yellow
with henna.

S I iV G A P 0 R E. 407

The ceremonies after death are not less curious: washing and shroud-
ing of the corpse always takes place, and it is clad in the best clothing
of the deceased. On the third, seventh, fourteenth, fortieth, and hun-
dredth days, oblations of spices, aloe-wood, and flowers, are oflcred.

The Mussulmans of India, in digging graves, never exceed the
depth of the navel for a man, while those for a female are always

I breast-deep. Near the bottom is dug a side niche, into which the

body is put. The niche is then closed w^ith boards placed on their
edges, after which the grave is filled wnth earth. The first portion
put in is thrown on loose branches, that are laid over the grave in
order to sift it and allow it to fall more lightly. Their graves are
marked with two small wooden pillars, \vith the earth heaped up

1 between them ; the largest of these denotes the position of the head.

On the Malayan peninsula they have various feasts and festivals,
that partake more of the customs of the Arabs than of the islands of

India. On these occasions sacrifices of buffaloes take place, a prac-
tice which is thought to be peculiar to this part of the East. The
buffalo selected for this purpose must be without blemish or disease.
The animal about to be sacrificed is taken to the mosque, where it is
thrown down, its fore and hind legs tied, and the head secured ; water
is poured over it, and the offering made. The priest, after saying
prayers, cuts the throat ; the carcass is then flayed and divided into
tw^o equal parts. One-half is given to the inhabitants, and is gene-
rally cooked and eaten on the spot ; the other is divided among the
higher orders. The leg-bones are never suffered to be broken, even after
death ; neither is the spine, nor are the horns of animals sacrificed suf-
fered to be used for common purposes, such as handles of knives, &c»

Among the animals that are found in the Malayan peninsula, are
the elephant, rhinoceros, a variety of tigers, leopards, bears, monkeys,
alligators, guanas, and sometimes the tapir : there are one or two

i

\

species of deer, which are exceedingly small in size, and of delicate
proportions. Of birds, there are a vast variety, including the argus-
pheasant, horn-bill, peacock, large vampire-bat, humming-bird, and
snipe. Snakes abound, many of which are venomous.

The neighbouring seas afford a great variety of shells and corals ;

among the latter I may mention the cup of Neptune (Alcyonium),
which grows to a very large size, and is not found elsewhere. Our
collections, by the industry of the naturalists and ofiicers, w^ere much

increased here.

The small island of Singapore is destined in all probability to

govern at some future period the whole of this country, and will, in

course of time, be one of the points from which they are destined to

receive the arts and civilization of Europe. It strikes me, therefore,

408 SINGAPORi;.

as incumbent on those who rule over this rising colony, to see that the
general administration may have a tendency to promote civilization.
I regret to say that T could perceive but little indication of any other
principle than that of gain.

During my stay at Singapore, the subject of steam navigation was
much talked of, and many projects appeared to be forming by which
the settlement might reap the advantages of that communication,
when established between India and China,

Some idea of the facilities that this method of transportation has
already furnished will appear from the fact that I received letters on
my arrival there, vda England, only seventy-two days after their date
in the United States- This places the East in such close proximity
to Europe, that instead of looking for yearly or monthly accounts, as
was formerly the case, they are now on the watch for daily news.

This has already, as may be supposed, altered the current of trade,
instead of specie, drafts being sent out by the ships with orders for
shipment of goods from China, The transactions pass through banks,
or are performed by. purchase of government and individual bills.
Many believe that in a very few years the w^hole commerce of these
seas will he carried on by steam, which would afford peculiar facili-
ties for communicating with the ports of the Chinese Empire, by the
control it gives the commercial w^orld in counteracting the monsoons,
which have hitherto regulated the routes of commerce. All that is
needed is capital to set it in motion.

As vessels of war, the steamers have been particularly useful in the
British operations against China. The shallow and unknown coast
of that country, and its almost impenetrable rivers, could have been
rendered accessible by no other means.

Singapore, as a port of supplies, offers many inducements, although
there are the same objections to it that apply more or less to all the
ports of the East, One of these is caused by the ravages of the
white ants. A portion of our flour was rendered entirely unser-
viceable, for these insects had literally perforated the barrels in all
directions; and in rolling them over, the staves appeared like fine
sieves, through which the flour passed in every direction. This,
however, was only the case with that which had been stored in a dry
upper loft. The larger portion of this article, which had fortunately
been left on the ground-floor or basement of the storehouses, had
escaped this injury. The latter place was both cooler and damper
than the former, and these were the only apparent reasons w'hy the
barrels had escaped uninjured.

The climate of Singapore, notwithstanding its geographical and
local position, is considered as very salubrious: it is admitted by all

I

SINGAPORE. 409

that the neighbouring coasts and islands arc quite the reverse. Al-
though the island is near the Malay shore, yet the site of tlie town
being on its southern point, is within the influence of the prevaiUng
winds, which it is generally supposed carry off the miasma as fast as
it is formed ; yet every thing seems favourable about the settlement to
produce disease : it lies low, with large tracks of marsh and jungle in
its neighbourhood. The heat, however, is very much modified by
the sea-breezes, and varies only from 79° to 84° ; the mean annual
temperature has been found to be_a little above 80° ; in this computa-
tion, however, I understand the night hours had been entirely omitted ;
had the observations included those also, they would undoubtedly have
low^ered the mean considerably. It was remarked that it rains for an
\ hour or two almost every afternoon, and in consequence of these daily

showers, vegetation has a rapid or rather rank growth. To these
frequent show^ers is ascribed by some the healthfulness of the place,
preventing malaria by maintaining a constant growth in the vegeta-
ble kingdom, and thus tending to absorb the noxious and deleterious
gases.

The diseases most common in the East, such as dysentery, diarrhoea,
and fevers, are seldom experienced here ; but, at the same time, it is
necessary to take every precaution, and avoid the heat of the vertical
sun. The crews of the squadron were remarkably healthy, and only
a few^ of them experienced any ill effects from the heat. One man on
board the Vincennes, was attacked with a brain fever, of which he
died a few days after leaving the place. This case was attributed to

great imprudence on his part, in defiance of all warnings not to expose
himself.

On my arrival at Singapore, various reports were made to me of
defects existing in the tender Flying-Fish. It was to be expected,
after the arduous service she had performed ; yet, having brought
her safely thus far, I felt a natural desire to carry her home wuth us ;
and in this all the officers seemed to partake. But the idea of risking
the lives of her officers and crew, after the disaster that had already
befallen her sister craft, was not to be endured ; and I saw that it was
necessary to have a thorough examination of her before I ventured
her in the homeward voyage. I therefore ordered a survey by th
most experienced persons in the squadron, who, although they could
not point out any conspicuous defects, were satisfied that from long
and hard service she had become weakened in her frame, and that
she would not only need much time, but a large expense, to place her
in a fit condition to make the voyage home. I must say that even
after I had received the report I still felt a strong inclination to persist

VOL. V,

2K 52

410

SINGAPORE,

first and last thought.

in bringing her back to the United States ; but my hnal decision was
against it. The consul was therefore desired to advertise her for sale,
and in the mean time all her stores and armament were removed.

She was, agreeably to the notice, sold at public sale for three thou-
sand seven hundred dollars- To part with this vessel was unpleasant
on many accounts ; for she had been daily, for nearly four years, my

The attachment I had felt for her was great ;
the efficient aid she had occasionally afforded in the performance of
my duties, caused me to value her highly ; and as a vessel of her
class, she was almost faultless.

By the 25th of February, we had completed filling our water,
which is here conveniently supplied by tank-boats ; and having ob-
tained for the passage home all the stores we needed, except bread,
we made every preparation for sailing.

In consequence of the short supply of the latter article, I determined
to touch with the Vincennes at the Cape of Good Hope ; while the
two brigs were ordered to stop at Rio Janeiro, for the same purpose,
as well as to obtain some further observations, and additional speci-
mens of natural history.

In the evening, we took leave of our worthy consul and his lady,
who had afforded us every faciUty for procuring information as well
as amusement, to render our stay agreeable, and to whom I now
tender my own thanks, as well as those of the other officers of the
Expedition.

At five o^clock on the morning of the 26th, I took advantage of the
land-breeze, and made signal to the Porpoise and Oregon to get under
way.

GENTOO MONUMENT

'ti:

CHAPTER XI

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE-STRAITS OF RHIO--STRAITS OF BANCA-^TRAITS OF
SUNDA-INDIAN OCEAN— CURRENTS AND METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA OFF THE
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE— ARRIVAL IN TABLE PAY-CAPE TOWN-GOVERNMENT OF THE
COLONY— TAXES— BANKING— WINE TRADE— CATTLE— IMPORT TRADE— HOTTENTOTS—
CAFFRE TRIBES— VISIT TO CONSTANTIA— ASTRONOMY AND MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS
—ASCENT OF TABLE MOUNTAIN-GREEN POINT-LIGHTHOUSE-EXCHANGE-GARDEN
OF THE BARON VON LUDWIG— CLIMATE OF THE CAPE-PHENOMENA OF REFRACTION
—TENURES OF LAND- DEPARTURE FROM TABLE BAY — VOYAGE TO ST, HELENA —

JAJVIESTOWN — VISIT TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON AND LONGWOOD - MAGNETIC
OBSERVATORY— PLANTATION-HOUSE— DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA —PASSAGE TO
THE UNITED STATES-ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK-CONCLUSION.

(411)

\

T»

CHAPTEK XI

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

1842.

After leaving Singapore, I determined to pass through the Straits
of Rhio, a route which I deemed the shortest and best for vessels
bound through (he Straits of Sunda. We had light winds and rain-
squalls at the entrance of the strait; but towards the afternoon we
were favoured with the northeast breeze, which carried us rapidly
onward. At night I anchored, wishing to examine more particularly

the charts extant, and to make what corrections I might deem neces-
sary.

The next morning at daylight we again resumed our route, but in
consequence of fog were obliged to anchor off the Dutch factory at
Rhio, where a fort is established. This was first occupied in 1824,
after the cession of Malacca.

The island contains but few inhabitants, and those few are not in-
clined to come under the Dutch authority. From all I could learn,
there is very little inducement for a vessel to resort here for trade.
The island is considered extremely unhealthy for foreigners during
several months of the yean

When the weather cleared off, we again passed down the strait, and
on our arrival off the southern point of the islands, we steered for the
east point of Lintin, which island we passed on the 28th, on our way
to the Straits of Banca.

On the morning of the 1st of March, we approached the northern
entrance of the Straits of Banca, and got a view of these low and
uninteresting coasts.

The same afternoon, we fell in with a barque, under Dutch colours,
which refused to answer our hail as we passed ; we immediately wore

2K2

(413)

414 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

ship, and fired a shot; upon which they let fly all their halyards and
sheets. A boat was sent on board with an officer, who discovered
that she was manned by Malays, and that no one on board could
speak English; however, he managed to understand thai they were
from Palambam, Sumatra, and bound to Singapore. Soon afterwards,
we saw the Dutch establishment of Mintow ; it is situated on a knolK
at the northern end of Banca, and had the Dutch flag flying over it.
The greater part of Banca is low land; the northern end particularly
so. There are, however, a few detached hills, of considerable altitude,
which serve as sailing-marks during the passage through the straits.
The southern end of the island rises, and appears to be of a different
formation from the other parts, as its soil is thickly wooded. In the
forest were seen numerous clearings, where people had been and were
then burning charcoal, to obtain fuel for smelting the tin ores. The
principal mining district lies towards the southern end of the island, in
the swampy flat land at the foot of the isolated hills before mentioned.
The ore is usually found at the depth of from six to twenty feet from
the surface, in layers that run horizontally for two or three miles; these
vary in thickness from six to twenty inches, and consist of heavy
granulated particles, of a dark metallic lustre, mixed with white sand-
The strata above the vein consists of vegetable mould, red and whit(?
clay, intermixed with pebbles of white quartz, and white sand, like
that which is found with the metal. A stratum of steatite is said to
be found underlying these ores of tin.

The process of w^orking these mines is exceedingly rude; both
Malays and Chinese are employed in them, but the latter are pre-
ferred on account of their greater perseverance and industry. I was
told at Singapore that the amount of tin derived from Banca by the
Dutch, was not half so great as that obtained while it was under
British management, or that it is still capable of yielding. The ore
5s washed after its removal from the veins, which separates the earth,
and leaves only the metal and stones; the last are separated by hand,
and the metal is then smelted : to effect this, huge piles of alternate
layers of ore and charcoal are formed; the fused metal escapes into
a hole dug in the ground, from which it is dipped and poured into
moulds, forming, when cool, the tin of commerce. Tin ore is found
at Banca in great quantities, but its quality is inferior to that obtained
from other places; and it rarely yields more than sixty per cent, of
pure metal. The process of smelting is but seldom performed, gene-
rally not oftener than once or twice a year. Rude bellows of various
forms are used in kindling the smelting fires; some of these are com-
posed of large wooden cylinders with moving pistons, which give a

t:

CAPEOFGOODHOPE. 415

- ■ ^

Strong continuous blast ; others are nothing more than a bamboo tube,
through which the breath is forced upon the flame. The process for
working the mines and extracting the metal from the ore, are similar
in all the mining districts, and differ but little from those employed
when the mines were first opened.

The Sumatra shore of the Straits of Banca is low, and appears to
be covered with a dense forest, Durinir the night we were visited bv
a heavy storm of thunder and lightning, with much rain. The next
morning being pleasant, we got under way again, and passed rapidly
through the straits; the southern outlet, however, called the Luce-
para Passage, was not attained until nearly dark, and before reaching
it we crossed many shoals, so near the surface as to leave but little
water under our keels. An English vessel in advance of us hoisted a
light after dark, and by taking it for our guide, we succeeded in pass-
ing through safely. This vessel was soon overtaken by us, and proved
to be the barque Java, Lewis master, thirty-eight days from Batavia,
and bound to Singapore, Having lost twelve of her crew by dysen-
tery and but few of the survivors being able to perform their duty in
consequence, she w^as returning to Batavia, The surgeon was sent on
board, and the necessary medicines, &c., of which they were in great
want, were supplied.

During the 2d and 3d of March, we had cloudy weather, with some
rain, and at nightfall on the latter day, anchored near the Two Bro-
thers. During the night, George Porter died. He was bui'ied next
day with the usual ceremonies. We got under way again at an early
hour in the morninf]^, and at evening; found ourselves off North Island,

t)' «- w. - ^

near which we anchored. During the night we had lightning, thunder,
and rain.

The next day we arrived off Hout's Island, at the entrance of the
Straits of Sunda, when, the wind dying away, we were left at the
mercy of a strong current setting in towards the island. To avoid
danger we anchored, and lay until the turn of the tide ; we afterwards -
passed round Zutphen's Island and Hog Point, anchoring for the night
off Rajah Bassa.

As far as my experience goes, I can testify that Horsburgh's direc-
tions for the Straits of Sunda are safe and goody although perhaps not
the most suitable for our navigators, for he makes the safety of the
ship his principal aim, and gives directions so to navigate a large class
vessel as to insure it; whilst my countrymen, although they always

1

tfy

that in following his advice more time is lost than a regard fo sufficient

416 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

safety demands. Although such may be the case, it ought not to lessen
the gratitude that navigators owe him for his East India Directory, a
contribution to nautical information that cannot well be surpassed,
either for general accuracy, or as regards the great number of satis-
factory directions that it contains-

On the morning of the 6th, we again got under way, the men ex-
hibiting their joy in taking this first real step on their homeward course,
by running up the anchor quickly to the bows, and by the alacrity
with which they performed their other duties. With a light wind
from the eastward, we stood into the Indian Ocean, between the
islands of Pulo Bessy and Crockatoa ; the day was a delightful one,
and being Sunday, when no unessential duty was performed, there was
leisure to enjoy it. After divine service, the wind shifted to the north-
ward and westward, and towards night we experienced severe squalls
from that quarter, accompanied by lightning and torrents of rain. In

the intervals between the gusts, the w^ind blew freshly, and on the

morning of the 7th we found ourselves fairly launched on the blue
waters of the ocean, pursuing rapidly our homeward course.

We were now truly on our route for home, and finding that the
brigs detained us by their slower rate of sailing,! determined to part
company with them, having some days previously given them direc-
tions what course to pursue in such an event: these will be found in
Appendix XIV. We accordingly made all the sail that could be
carried, and soon left them behind us. As we proceeded to the south-
ward, the wind gradually hauled to the westward, and continued
blowing strongly from that quarter until the 10th, on which day we
reached the latitude of M"" S., and longitude 100° E.

The 11th was the first fine day since our departure from the straits ;
and on this day we had some slight indications that we should be
favoured with the trades. On trying the temperature of the water, one
hundred fathoms deep, we found it to differ from that at the surface
only six degrees-

On the 12th, we had reached latitude 17^ S., and longitude 98° E.
The weather was now delightful, and we experienced the long swells
of the ocean from the southward and eastward, together with moderate
breezes from the same quarter. I determined now to run on that
parallel of latitude; for I believed, judging from my experience in
other seas, that steady trade-winds w^ere more likely to prevail on it
than farther to the southward.

On the dSth, we overtook an English barque. At this time, the
crew began to be affected with catarrhs and influenza, and thirty-

CAPEOFGOODHOPE. 417

eight were reported on the sick-list These affections were imputed
to the damp and wet weather which we had experienced after leaving
the Straits of Sunda.

As we were making our passage across the Indian Ocean in those
months during which hurricanes most prevail, some little anxiety was
felt on this account ; and as we neared the longitude of the Mauritius,
the appearances of the weather w^ere carefully scanned. On the 16th,
signs of a change in the weather were evident ; there was also a fall
in the barometer, and we encountered a heavy and rising swell from
the southward and westward, which continued for about seventy
miles. So well defined were the waves, and so large, it satisfied me
they were caused by a violent gale blowing at no great distance from
us. On the 17th, we passed for fifty miles through swells from the
southward and eastward, and of the same character as those seen on
the day before, I made many endeavours to measure the velocity of
these waves, and their altitudes, and found the former to be from
twelve to twenty miles per hour, and the latter about eighteen feet :
I was not satisfied, how^ever, that these measurements were quite
accurate, nor was there sufficient opportunity to render them so.

On the 20th, w^e had fine weather until noon, at which time the
wind shifted to the northward. This change was accompanied by a
fall of the barometer, and every other indication that we were about
to experience one of the phenomena peculiar to this ocean. Every
preparation was made to encounter the bad weather whose approach
the wind and sea indicated. The barometer gradually fell from
30 inches to 29-89, -SS, -83, -81, '80, -79, in six hours; it then re-
mained stationary for three hours, afterwards rose one-tenth of an
inch, again fell to 29-79, and remained at that height for more than
twenty-four hours. During this time the sea changed its direction,
and set heavily from the westward, causing the ship to pitch deeply.
We had a light wind 'from the same quarter for several hours, which
j afterwards veered to the southward and eastward, enabling us again

to lay our course. The height of the waves last spoken of, as deter-
mined by a mean of several measurements, was about twenty-three
feet, and their mean velocity about twenty-five miles per hour; but
some of them, which I lost the opportunity of measuring, were cer-
tainly higher.

On the 23d, Benjamin Vanderford, master's mate, died. During the
cruise, I had often experienced his usefulness, and now regretted his
loss. He had formerly been in command of various ships sailing
from Salem, and had made many voyages to the Feejee Islands-
During our stay there he was particularly useful in superintending

VOL. r.

53

418 CAPE OF GOOD HOPK

all trade carried on to supply the ships; he always proved himself a
good officer, and was one for whom I felt much regard. As some-
times happens, he had a presentiment of his own death, and had
long been impressed with the opinion that he would not survive to
return to his country. His death produced a great impression upon
Vendovi, for Mr. Vanderford was the only person wuth whom that
chief could converse, and a sort of attachment had sprung up between
them, arising from the officer's long residence with Tanoa at Ambau,
and his familiarity with the manners and customs of the Feejee
Islands. Besides, Vendovi looked forward to his becoming a protector
on their arrival in the United States. While conversing with Mr.
Vanderford, some time before his death, he expressed his willingness
to take charge of Vendovi, and to befriend him on our arrival at
home ; for, although the Feejeeans had despoiled him of all his pro-
perty, they had nevertheless saved his life, and for that, or rather for
refraining from devouring him, he felt some gratitude, and would have
shown it to Vendovi.

Poor Vendovi could not be persuaded to look at his friend's corpse ;
his spirits evidently flagged ; a marked change came over him ; and
he no doubt felt as though he had lost his only friend. His own
disease, henceforward, made rapid strides towards a fatal termination,
and he showed that such was the case by his total disregard of every
thing that passed around him, as well as by his moping, melancholy
look. On the 24th, the remains of Mr. Vanderford were committed
to the deep, with the usual service and honours. The same day we
experienced a current to the northwest ; and the crew, after having
been for ten days afflicted with colds and influenza, began rapidly to

recover.

March

S., and longitude

68° E., and enjoyed, until the 30th, delightful weather and strong
trades, enabling us to make two hundred and fifty miles a day. On
the latter day we overtook and spoke the ship Clarendon, of Boston,
from Canton for New York. On the 2d of April, a strong current
was felt setting towards the northwest; on the 3d, it was found to set
west-northwest. We had squally weather on the 4th, accompanied
by frequent lightning, thunder, and rain. This storm lasted for three
hours. We then ran out of it, having fine weather again, and a clear
sky overhead; leaving as it were behind us the storm, which seemed
to occupy half the firmament, with many beautiful and well-defined
rainbows. I was told, at the Cape, that this phenomenon of the sky
half covered with clouds, was frequently seen by those dwelling there,
or navigating the sen? in its neighbourhood; and, on its occurrence.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

419

those in a proper situation never fail to witness the same series of
beautiful and well-defined rainbows.

We were again affected by currents on the 5th; and they show^ed
themselves in the formation of the short rough sea which we encoun-
tered. The deep-sea soundings on that day gave remarkable results;
for, while the temperature of the water at the surface was 73-5^, that

■ r

at a depth of one hundred fathoms was 78^; although this may seem
somewhat singular, it may be accounted for by the circumstance that
we were within the influence of the tropical currents setting to the
southward along the eastern coast of Africa.

On the 6th, experiments on the temperature of the water gave
similar results, although the difference betw^een the surface temperature
and that at one hundred fathoms depth w^as not so great as on the pre-
vious day, the former being 75-5^, and the latter 78-5°. The ascertained
set of the ship by current this day was south half west, forty miles. At
noon the current was found, on trial, to flow in the same direction, but
with a velocity of not more than half a mile per hour.

The ship continued to be tossed about most uncomfortably during the
7th, and the current set us fifty-three miles in a west-southwest direc-
tion. We passed close to the edge of the Aguillas Bank, where the
temperature of the surface water rose to 78°, and continued so until
5 p. M., w^hen the water became discoloured, and it fell to 73^ ; we then
obtained soundings with sixty fathoms of line on dead coral. During
this time the temperature of the air had not been higher than 70°. In
order to examine the temperature of the warm stream that we were
passing through, I shaped a course nearly at right angles to the direc-
tion of its flow, and while sailing sixty miles made the following obser-
vations :

At noon, the temperature of the surft.ce wa»

» 1 p. M

«2

-7

*'8

at

u

u

»t

u

u

u

u

ftt

u

u

u

78°

78

78

77

75

73

69
68
66

At the time of the last observation the temperature of the air was 68°.

On the morning of the 8th we had soundings in sixty-nine fathoms
water; the direction and velocity of the current was tried by anchoring
a boat. The direction was found to be S. 56° W. (true), and the
velocity to amount to three quarters of a mile per hour. During the
last twenty-four hours the current had set us thirty-three miles, and in

420 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

the same direction as that shown by our experiment. A trial of the
temperature at the bottom was made with the deep-sea thermometer,
and was found to be 56|^; while at the surface it was 69^. The land
to the westward of Algoa Bay was now in sight, and it was not a little
remarkable as we came on soundings how soon we passed into a
smooth and quiet sea, from a rough and tossing one, exhibiting all the
turbulent characteristics that are caused by the meeting of powerful
currents.

On the 9th, the wind being contrary, we continued standing in
tow^ards the land, and in the afternoon w^ere not more than ten miles
from the coast. The temperature of the air and water was GS*^.

The next day the wind blew from the same direction, and as the
weather was fine, I determined to stand off to the edge of the bank
previously spoken of, in order to obtain the assistance of the current
running there, to carry us to the westward. At 4 p. m. we tried the
set and velocity of the current, on soundings in eighty-five fathoms
water, and found its direction to be east-northeast; its rate, a quarter
of a knot per hour. During the last twenty-four hours, while on sound-
ings, the set of the current was thirty-three miles N. 62^ E. At 6 p- m.
the temperature of the w^ater changed from 67° to 75°, and wuth this
variation of temperature, we found we were again entering the turbu-
lent sea. In the tacks w^e made, off and on, the temperature rose and
fell during each of them, sev^eral degrees, and the turbulent and smooth
water formed a well-defined line.

On the 11th, we still continued in the rough water; the temperature
at the surface being 75°, but that at one hundred fathoms depth was
only 65° ; with two hundred and fifty fathoms of line, there were no
soundings. In the evening the water became remarkably phosphore-
scent; in fact, to a greater degree than I had ever previously observed,
except at the Cape de Verde Islands, while on our outward voyage.
After we had passed the pitch of the Cape, the direction of the current
was found to be changed, having set us, ^n twenty-four bours, forty
miles, on a course N. 40° W.

I am satisfied that the use of thermometers would be beneficial to

X ■

those navigating around this Cape ; for by keeping in water of a tem-
perature above 70°, they w^ould, although exposed to a rougher sea, be
carried more rapidly around the Cape, and would discover that they
had passed it by encountering the cold water which is flowing rapidly
to the northwest. In fact, it is obvious to me that the anomalies of
current and temperature existing in this neighbourhood, can only be
accounted for on the hypothesis of an upper and under current of

different temperatures- The former of these is the warm, the latter

CAPEOFGOODHOPE. 42]

the cooler one: but for a more particular explanation of this sulyect,
the reader is referred to the diagram map, and the chapter on currents
and whaling.

On the 12th of April, we arrived off False Bay, The temperature
of the surface water w^as reduced to 64°, and the current was setting
us rapidly to the north-northwest. The fog and mist that now pre-
vailed, prevented my observations for ascertaining the rate of the cur-
rent from being as accurate as T desired; the results, such as they
w^ere, gave it a velocity of more than a mile per hour.

On the 13th, no observations could be obtained on account of the

r

fog and mist; and our situation became rather a perplexing one. On
making trial of the current, we found that it was drifting us to the
north at the rate of eighteen miles in tw^enty-four hours. Soundings
were obtained in eighty-five fathoms. The temperature of the surface
water fell to 54°. Towards evening it cleared up, and our situation
was obtained by bearings, which placed us off Snake's Head, about
twelve miles to the southward and westward of the Lion's Head.
Believing that my only chance of making Table Bay was by keeping
as close to the shore as possible, I kept the ship on soundings during
the night, and at daylight stood in through a thick fog for what I felt
sure must be the position of Green Point. While under way, we fell
in with a fleet of small fishing-boats lying at anchor. Their crews
were catching a species of bass, as fast as they could haul in their
lines. Immense numbers of birds, such as albatrosses, petrels, and
gulls, surrounded the boats, and were feeding on the small fish and
offal thrown overboard from them. The fish caught here are salted,
and being afterwards dried, furnish no inconsiderable portion of the
food of the lower orders of the colony. One of the fishermen w^as
desired to come on board, and after he had satisfied me that some

u

reliance might be placed in him as a pilot, he was retained with ug.
Under his guidance we stood on, and as the fog began to break away
reached our anchorage, having passed close to the lighthouse and
Green Point, the western point of Table Bay. The captain of the
port, Commander Bance, R. N-, boarded us soon after w^e had
anchored. I was glad to see this gentleman, to whom I felt under
obligations, for civilities and kindness shown me some eighteen years
previously, during a cruise off the coast of Peru.

An oiRcer was despatched by me to call upon, and report our arrival
to Sir George Thomas Napier, governor of the colony.

The falling of the ball at the Royal Observatory afforded us an
opportunity for comparing the time as shown by our chronometers

2L

422 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

with that of the Cape. Of this we took advantage, and found that
our time-keepers had performed well.

Much to my regret, our consul at this place, Isaac Chase, Esq,, was
confined to his house by sickness. I anticipated detention from this
cause ; but on visiting him at his residence on Green Point, I was
informed by him that he had already made arrangements through the
house of Bordelaise, Thompson & Pillars, for supplying all our w^ants
as soon as possible.

The view of Cape Town and its vicinity from the anchorage, is
remarkable, and the whole seems novel. Directly in its rear rise the
perpendicular sides of Table Mountain, while on either hand are seen
the crags of the Lion's Head and Devil's Peak; the former usually
overhung by a large cloud, which often covers the whole town with
its broad shadow. These mountains are composed of a dark reddish-
gray sandstone, and excepting immediately at their base, and close
to the rear of the town, show but little signs of vegetation. Here and
there pretty straw-coloured cottages are scattered among the foliage.

The anchorage, which is at some distance from the beach, was, at
the time of our arrival, occupied by a large number of vessels, which
somewhat surprised me, for at this season of the year the bay is often
visited by northers, which have in former years done much damage,
and caused the loss of many lives. I was informed, however, that
but little apprehension is now felt on their account, for ships are at
the present time w^ell provided wuth chain cables, and can hold their
ground. Two quays extend from the beach into the bay, affording
facility to lighters lo discharge and take in their cargoes at all times
of the tide.

The town itself show^s many traces of its original occupants. The
houses, with their prim little stoops, porches, and gables to the street,
reminding me strongly of those built by the early settlers of New York
and Albany. But few^ of the streets have any sidewalks, and many
of them are not paved at all, causing them, in consequence of the arid
climate, to be ankle-deep in dust. Nine-tenths of the inhabitants still
retain a Dutch look, and many of them are unable to speak any other
than their original language, while to a large number of them the
epithet "boors," so commonly bestowed, is quite applicable. The
town is laid out with regularity, many of the streets crossing each
other at right angles, and some are of respectable width. Rows of
oak, poplar, and pine trees line the sides of the principal avenues.
Many contain shops, which are well supplied with the usual varieties
of European goods* Roses and vines are cultivated in front of the

CAPEOFGOODHOPE. 423

houses, and their blossoms and fruit, although within reach of all, are
respected. The houses are painted of various colours, without any
regard to taste, and are of a clean though antiquated appearance. No
two of them are alike, yet their styles are so marked, that the country
whence their builders came may be judged with tolerable certainty
from each. Badly-painted signs are as numerous as in our own
country, and vanes pointing in every direction surmount the gables.
The Dutch costume still prevails among the .inhabitants, and afforded
us much amusement. In the schools the Dutch language is still
taught; though in many the English is a branch of education. Con-
sidering the number of years that this colony has been under the
British dominion, it surprised me to find that a knowledge of the

\ Dutch was much more necessary than that of English, while dealing

with the inhabitants.

There are two hotels in Cape Town, the Royal George and the
Victoria, both kept on the English plan. The former we frequented
during our short stay, and found it comfortable, although far inferior
to what might have been expected from the size of the town.

I The Cape of Good Hope was originally settled by the Dutch in

1652; captured by the British in 1795; restored again after the peace
of Amiens in 1802; again taken possession of in 1806; and finally
ceded to Great Britain in 1815. During its occupation as a Dutch
colony, it had twenty-eight governors, and since it has been under
British rule it has had eighteen. By this it will be perceived that
the changes in its administration have been frequent, and what might
naturally be expected to follow, the policy and character of its
governors have been vacillating. It has been generally ruled very
much after the ideas of those who presided for the time being. The
government is nominally vested in the governor, and an executive and
legislativ^e council, who are all appointed by the crown, or with its
approbation and consent.

Under this system of government it has been the misfortune of the
Cape colony to be placed ; and the advantages it has possessed under
some, have been counterbalanced by others, and not unfrequently the
salutary regulations made by one, have, without any apparent reason,
in the minds of the colonists, been annulled or set aside by others;
which, of course, has tended to foment discord and produce a feeling
of opposition to British rule ; this has prevented the advancement of
the colony, and retarded its usefulness by giving license to crime that

otherwise would not have existed.

Of late years, however, ahhough the government still remains the
same, yet they have been more fortunate in the individuals who have

424 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

4

presided over it. In regarding the British colonial system, it appears
remarkable that the British nation, generally so mindful of political
rights, should place it in the power of distant governors to rule their
colonists with almost despotic sway, and their growth and rise to be
at the option of any one individual, who may arbitrarily crush or para-
lyse the efforts of industry and the developement of resources. Many
of the inhabitants of the Cape complain of this polity, but look forward
to the adoption, in the course of time, of an elective legislative body,
which will give them some share in the government, and prevent not
only misrule, but undue taxation and a misapplication of its funds in
the various improvements which government may authorize.

The executive council consists of seven members, including the
governor, who is the presiding officer; and the legislative council of
thirteen, composed of the members of the executive council and five
additional unofficials, who are themselves residents of the colony,
named by the governor, and appointed by the crown.

The same kind of government may be said to exist now as in New
South Wales, of which I have had occasion to speak when treating of
that colony ; and it is thought to be equally inefficient, and to require
reform.

One of the circumstances that had agitated the respectable portion
of this colony, has been the publication of the authentic Cape records.
Many entered warmly into the scheme at first, but it was soon per-
ceived what the developements were likely to be, and that many who
had played a conspicuous part in the history of the colony, were about
to have all their public as well as private acts brought to light; and
this has raised a strong opposition to the continuance of the publica-
tion. The editor, Donald Moodie, Esq., in the year previous to our
visit, made an appeal, stating the difficulties that he had encountered,
and adding, that he w^ould in consequence be obliged to give up the
task. Some of the numbers were sent me by a friend, which I took
the more interest in perusing, as exhibiting the history of the tribe of
Hottentots, which may be now deemed almost extinct, so far as the
civilized and settled portions of the colony extend. Many disreputable
actions on the part of all those who have been engaged were here
exposed, and I am not at all surprised that the official incumbent, as
well as others, should exert all their interest to effect its suppression;
however, as many of these statements are now before the public, it
would be desirable that they should be gone through with, that there
may be a full understanding of the transactions that have now come
to light, in order to have a full knowledge of the state of the affairs
of the colony, as well in relation to the governor as to those who have

II!

We

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 435

been employed under the governmental authority, whether missionaries
or officials. Like the secret details of all colonies, they will show a
great deal of misrule, inhumanity, and want of system, in the conduct
of affairs. The opposing .interests are such that the whole will pro-
bably be exposed. The colonists, on the one side, feeling themselves
unjustly charged with cruelty and persecution of the unfortunate
natives, desire that all the investigations that have taken place may be
brought before the public ; while, on the other hand, those who are or
have been in any way connected with the government, are, from all
accounts, disposed to the suppression of this documentary evidence,
e I desirous of showing the dark side of the picture, I might
insert here a few extracts that would startle the many who now boast
of their philanthropic action, and are disposed to condemn the actions
of others in regard to slavery, who are, in comparison, far less guilty
of wrong to the interests of humanity. Those who are disposed to
look further into these subjects, may consult *' Specimens of the
Authentic Records of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, relative
to the Aboriginal Tribe ; together with an Inquiry into the Justice and
Expediency of publishing the remaining portion of those Records, by
Donald Moodie: Cape of Good Hope, 1841."

On the morning after my arrival I called on his excellency the
governor, at the government-house, where I had the honour of an
introduction to Sir George Napier. His reception was kind and frank.
With him I nassed a nleasant half hour.

Sir George is one of the

W

those well-contested conflicts, in the loss of an arm. He showed me
over the apartments, which, however, are not now occupied, as he was
living at his country-seat. They appear convenient, and afford from
the windows a view of the government demesne, which is quite pretty,
planted as it is with fine old oaks; part of it is kept as a public walk,
which the citizens frequent on holidays in large numbers. The Cape
station has never been a popular one, from the want of society; but of
late years very many persons from India have made it a resort for the
recovery of their health, and in a measure supplied the deficiency in
this respect. The offices for the transaction of government business
are in the immediate neighbourhood of the government-house, and
within the precincts is also a college for the education of the youths
of the colony; it has several professors, but I understood all those who
desire to have their children well educated send them to England.

The barracks are extensive, and well built, and have a large area
in front as a parade-ground. There are several other buildings going

VOL. V.

2L2 54

426 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

up, for the accommodation of the troops and hospitals for the sick, all
handsome and well situated. I regret to say that as much cannot be
said for the town prison, nor for the buildings appropriated to the
police department, custom-house, and harbpui'-master's department:
all these bear the marks of what Cape Town was, and stand in strong
contrast to the modern improvements

Formerly the municipal government of Cape Town consisted of a
president, four members, the town treasurer, and a secretary. The
president was elected for two years, and was succeeded by the senior
member of the board. This board was dissolved, apparently for no
sufficient reason, for every one was satisfied with its usefulness in
controlling the various duties appertaining to a corporate body.

The town is now divided into twelve districts, and each district into
four wards, over each of which there is a commissioner, and four
ward-masters, chosen by the people. The first form the upper board,
and the last the lower, and each have a chairman and deputy chair-
man, who, among other duties, act as appraisers of property, on which
the taxes are assessed equal to three-quarter pence in the pound. By
the statistical tables published, it appears that the valuation of property
of Cape Town reaches the sum of one million six hundred and thirty-
six thousand pounds.

The municipal regulations now seem to be excellent, and are more
or less under military control. The police has been organized on the
plan of the police of London, and its efficiency is highly spoken of.
From all the information I could gather, crime has very much de-
creased in both the Cape district and colony. The statistics of crime
show but few cases. The quarterly sitting of the grand jury took place
during our visit, and there were but six presentments, viz., one for
culpable homicide, two assaults with intent to harm, one robbery, one
theft, or receiving stolen goods, and one fraudulent insolvency; and
this within a district containing fifty thousand inhabitants.

There are great complaints about the administration of the laws of
the colony ; the English system now prevails so far as to allow counsel
to the criminal The trial by jury is established ; seven of the twelve
must be present, and it requires a majority of these only to convict; if
more than seven are present, and the jury are divided equally, the
prisoner is acquitted. The Dutch criminal code formerly in force has
been modified by the English, so far as respects some punishments;
torture, for instance, has been done away with. The crimes of murder,
high treason, counterfeiting, and rape, are punished with death; thefts
of large amount, assault, robbery, and the like, are punished bv trans-

CAFE OF GOOD HOPE, 427

portation; while, for other and minor crimes, the prisoners are
employed as convicts on Robben's Island, working in the quarries; for
less offences, flogging and imprisonment are inflicted.

On the other hand, the English civil law has been modified by that
of the Dutch : this has increased litigation, in consequence of the absurd
manner in which boundaries were formerly laid off; such, for instance,
as estimating by the distance a man could walk in a hour, or canter
with his horse.

Another source of complaint, which amused me not a little, was the
administration of justice by a supreme court, over which a chief justice
and two puisne judges preside ; two of these are English, while the third
is a Scotchman; the consequence is, the English judges administer the
law after the English code, while the Scotch judge follows that of
Scotland, which often renders the decision diametrically opposite : and
it is impossible for the advocate or client to know by what judge or
law his case is to be tried. It was said, I know not with what truth,
that high connexions have been considered more suitable qualifications
for the office than legal knowledge. The salaries do not exceed fifteen
hundred and two thousand pounds annually.

There are in the Cape colony eight districts. Each of these is
governed by a commissioner or civil magistrate, who is assisted by
justices of the peace. These districts are again subdivided into veld
cornetcies. The cornetcies are governed by a petty magistrate, who
is called a veld cornet These extend over a distance of about twenty
miles, and under him is organized the militia force, in case it should be
called out. It is the duty of the latter to meet the requisitions of the
higher government officers for supplies, &c. There is little liberty
allowed the inhabitants of the districts, who are restricted from all acts
that might in any way tend to give expression to their sentiments ; not
even are they allowed to hold a public meeting, and all kinds of prose-
cutions are referred to the capital for final decision- At the Cape they
\ have a vice-admiralty court for the trial of offences on the high seas.

The commissioner of the district, and others holding oflice, are
appointed under the great seal, who are each empowered to grant
licenses of marriage, and do other civil acts, and have associated with
them the justices of peace, as well as the veld cornets.

The taxes are represented as being onerous ; there is, for instance, a
capitation tax of six shillings annually, on all free males and females,
above the age of sixteen. Those in the employ of the government are
exempt, as w^ell as the servants attendant on them. Horses and
carriages of all kinds are taxed from two to four pounds. There is a

tax on all incomes exceeding thirty pounds, of two per cent. ; in addition

428 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

to these are the stamp duties, water taxes, house taxes, auction duties,

market duties, tithes on wine and grain, in short, on every thing that is
sold ; all papers executed, transfers of property, promissory notes, bonds,
and licenses of all kinds; indeed, it would be difficult to mention any
thing exempted from the all-pervading taxation which here prevails.
On inquiring the cost of articles, it is invariable to account for the
price, by adding that the article is taxed. The people are even taxed
for permission to leave the colony; and I was told it was necessary to
pay a tax to take a bath.

The whole revenue raised amounts to £130,000, and the expendi-
tures do not exceed £125,000.

In order to lessen the weight of the taxation, it was in agitation at
the time of our visit, to increase the duties on imports, which are about
three per cent, ad valorem, on English articles, and ten per cent, on
foreign goods.

The circulation is a paper one of the denomination of rix-dollars,
valued at one shilling and six-pence.- There are no notes less than
twelve rix-dollars, equal to a pound. The monetary concerns of the
colony have undergone many vicissitudes, and numerous experiments
have been made, all tending to produce a v^anl of confidence. Govern-
ment, until within a few years, had the entire control of the discount
banks, and through them possessed a full knowledge of the affairs of
men in business, and it is said did not fail to use it in an arbitrary
manner, producing revulsions In the monetary affairs of the colony that
were highly prejudicial to the commercial community, causing much

distress, and in some cases ruin, of which many feel the effects to this
day.

This state of things gave rise to the establishment of banks exclu-
sively under the control of private individuals: there are two of these
corporations, bearing the title of the " Cape of Good Hope Bank," with
a capital of £70,000, and the " South African Bank," whose capital
amounts to £100,000; the capital of each is all paid in, and no part
of it can be withdrawn. The latter is not a bank of issue. A general
statement of their affairs is annually made to the proprietors. Interest
is paid on deposits remaining longer than a certain specified time.
Inviolable secrecy is observed with regard to individual accounts, and
each person connected with the institution signs a promise to that
efTect. These banks afford every facility within the bounds of pru-
dence to those dealing with them, even carrying the spirit of accommo-
dation so far as to keep early hours for the benefit of the agriculturists
who frequent the market.

This new system is found to work admirably, and pays handsome

f I

m

I

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 409

dividends to the proprietors. It gratified me to learn that the public

of Cape Town is chiefly indebted to Isaac Chase, Esq., the United

States consul, for the adoption of this banking system. I had many

interesting conversations with him on the subject, and also conversed

with others, inhabitants of the colony, who expressed themselves

highly pleased with the success of these institutions, while at the

same time they acknowledged their obligations to our commercial
agent. <

Wine is the great staple of the colony; but many of the vine-
growers have been ruined, in consequence of the vacillating policy
pursued by the home government, with regard to this branch of
industry. Trusting to the promises made by the government, a vast
amount of capital w^as invested in the business, and the annual pro-
duction was in a short time tripled. This state of things continued
for about ten years; but in the year 1825 a change of policy took

^

place, and the protection was diminished more than one-half; and at
the same time a further reduction w^as proposed in the bounty. As a
natural consequence, a depreciation in all the wine estates took place,
and the loss of much property ensued. This was made more un-
pleasant to the Cape colonists by a proposition to put a duty on Cape
wines, that would have the effect of placing them at a higher duty
than those of foreign wines* The colonists are still very sensitive
upon the subject of wine, and the treatment they have received; not
only have they to complain of bad faith on the part of the government,
but the constant efforts of others to decry their wines, some of w^hich
are produced of as fine a quality as those in any other part of the
world; but there is some foundation for the disparaging reports that
have been circulated, for quantities have certainly been sent abroad
that had been very much adulterated-

The Cape colony, both as to soil and climate, is well adapted to the
raising of all descriptions of wines, from the light German and French,
to those of Madeira and Sherry.

In consequence of the reverses the colonists have met with in the
wine trade, they have begun to turn their attention to the raising of
sheep; the colony has been found to be well adapted to those producing
fine wool, and the investments that have been made in them bid fair to

be profitable.

Wheat and maize are also cultivated, particularly on the mountains
near the Cape, where these grains grow in great perfection, and are
raised in sufficient quantities to meet the consumption of the colony,
and to be exported in considerable quantity to the Mauritius. The
wheat now used is of a hard and flinty kind, and effectually resists

430 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

the attaclis of insects, as well as the rust, which were formerly
troublesome.

The other chief productions are fruit, oil, and provisions.

One great obstacle is opposed to this colony ever becoming a great
producer of wool, and that is the immense distances and the almost
total want of communications. So bad are the roads and so great the
hindrances that the wonder is, not that there is so little internal trade,
but how transportation is effected at alL Were it not for the energy
and perseverance of the early colonists, and the hardy breed of cattle
that they possess, communication between distant parts of the colony
would be nearly impossible. Some opinion may be formed of the state
of the roads and the difficulties to surmount, by the fact that fourteen
pair of oxen are frequently attached to a small wagon.

The ox used in Africa seems to me to be of an entirely different
breed from the animal w^e are accustomed to see in our country. Their
legs are much longer in proportion to their bodies, lank and bare-boned,
with immense horns ; and their gait, instead of a slow walk, is often a
trot.

The whole of the foreign trade of the colony passes through Cape
Town. The value of imports is estimated at one and a half millions
sterling, and that of exports amounts to upwards of a million. The
vessels engaged in this trade number about six hundred, whose ton-
nage amounts to one hundred and eighty thousand tons. The total
revenue from customs, in the year 1840, was forty-two thousand eight
hundred and seventy-seven pounds. The exports consist of w^ine, wool,
ivory, whale-oil, hides, tallow, and aloes. These are either brought lo
Cape Town from the interior in wagons, or in small vessels from Algoa
Bay. They are sold by auction, in the market-place, every Saturday.
This mode of effecting sales is almost univ^ersal. The services of
auctioneers are of course in request, and in addition to their legitimate
trade they receive deposits and make advances on merchandise com-
mitted to their charge. The government taxes on sales by auction
amount to a large sum, and no article can be sold unless a tax is
paid; for any infraction of this law there is a heavy penalty, to be
collected by the market-master, who is appointed by the government,
and who superintends the collection of the dues according to a tariff
which is published.

There is a great want of labourers in the colony ; and since the
abolition of slavery, this scarcity has very much increased, for it is
found that those who have been manumitted are not disposed to work
more than is necessary to provide themselves with food. The attempt

been

o

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

431

J

I

1

templated, to bind as apprentices the captured slaves brought into the
island of St, Helena, to those who were willing to receive ihem, at the
Cape of Good Hope. The governor of St. Helena, Colonel H. Trc-

lawny, was well disposed to this plan, and it was understood was co-
operating with the authorities of the Cape to carry it fully into effect.
Five years is to be the term of apprenticeship. However much the
authorities incline to this plan, the wisdom of it is much doubted by a
large number of the inhabitants of the colony, who allege, that although
il may answer the purpose of giving relief, yet this benefit will not be
permanent, and in a few years they may be overburdened with a
population of blacks, who will be little inclined to labour, and may be
a great impediment to the introduction of a class of free labourers,
who might be permanently beneficial to the towns as well as to the
interior.

In the inhabitants of Cape Town, although one sees a great variety
of costume and figure, yet a true Hottentot of full blood is said to be
but rarely met with. Some, indeed, were pointed out as such ; but,
although they seemed to have the distinguishing marks that are gene-
rally impressed upon us as characteristic, yet on further inquiry they
did not prove to be really so. The wood-cut gives a good idea of
those seen at Cape Town.

HOTTKNTOTS.

The men are represented as being very much attached to their
sheep-skin cloak or caross- Those that we saw were remarkable for

432 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

very high and prominent cheek-bones and a sharp chin ; they are not
much inclined to steady employment: the attending of cattle, and the
indolent and wandering life in which Ihey pass their time, suit their
disposition. They at times hire themselves out to the farmers, re-
.ceiving cattle as wages. In the colony they do not bear a very high
character for honesty and faithfulness. They are expert drivers of
wagons, but are otherwise careless and inattentive. They are deemed
an improvident race, though there are some instances of their showing
great attachment to individuals who have treated them welL Their
numbers now are variously stated ; but little dependence is to be placed
on the accounts given, as is evident by their ranging from ten to thirty
thousand.

Upwards of thirty thousand slaves in the colony have been manu-
mitted; but the success of these as free labourers is by no means
^encouraging. The cooleys or bearers have regular employment, but

Mai

M

intelligent African traveller, to whom the world is indebted for his
interesting accounts of the Bushmen, and the chief knowledge we
have of the interior of the colony. We are indebted to his exertions,
through the liberaHty and joint action of some gentlemen of the Cape,
for the many attempts that have been made to penetrate into the inte-
rior of Africa- When the difficulties and perils of such efforts are duly
considered, it is not surprising that so little success has been met with
in the various expeditions undertaken with this view. To those who
would wish to seek adventure, the exploration of Africa offers at
present a wider and more novel field than any other portion of the
world.

The colonial government has^f late years had much trouble with
the CafFre tribes on the eastern limits of the colony- These have
frequently made incursions, and driven off the cattle of the settlers,
in revenge for the injuries they have sustained from the whites. The
usual result is taking place; here, as elsewhere, civilized man is
driving the savage before him, and occupying their hunting-grounds
far permanent agriculture. The missionaries have in some cases
pushed their establishments among these savage races, and from them
the accounts of the CafTres have been mostly derived. Their appear-
ance as well as character seem to indicate a totally different origin
from the negro and Hottentot tribes. One of the marked peculiarities
about them, is that they avoid marrying the women of their own tribe,
preferring to purchase wives from their neighbours, for whom they
barter their cattle. Tamboukie women are preferred, although they

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 433

are described as very ugly, being sliort, stout in the body, and having
strong muscular limbs.

Those M^ho have visited the country of the Caffres, describe them as
extremely hospitable, and very cheerful in their dispositions. They
mostly go naked, particularly during the heat of summer, though they
wear the caross of skin in the winter. Their arms consist of the spear
and club, with a shield of bullVhide to protect the person. Their
principal food is the milk of their herds, which they value beyond any
thing else: they are a pastoral people, and the cattle-fold is considered
the great place of honour, so much so that their chiefs are always
found to occupy it. They have of late years obtained many horses;
formerly they used the ox for riding, and this animal is said to have
been even trained by them for the race.

The part of South Africa occupied by the Caffres enjoys a delightful
climate, and they, consequently, need but little protection from the
weather; and their huts are rudely constructed.

Of late years the settlers at Port Natal, on the eastern coast, who
are surrounded by the Caffre tribes, set themselves up as a sort of
independent community, believing they w^ere beyond the limits of the
colony ; they enacted laws and regulations, issued their declaration of
independence, invited settlers, and for a time committed many atroci-
ties on the Caffres. The Cape government, deeming it was advisable
to check this disorderly spirit, sent an expedition to assert their proper
supremacy. Troops were proceeding to Port Natal at the time of our
visit.

During our stay we visited, as all strangers do, the estate of Con-
stantia ; it is situated about thirteen miles from Cape Town. There
are three small estates that bear this name, viz. ; High, Great, and
Little Conslantia- The country we passed through, although barren
and sandy, was apparently w^ell settled : the village of Wynberg is
the residence of many persons who come here to enjoy the delightful
air that generally blows from the eastward ; most of the residences
are pretty cottages, and some have the appearance of handsome villas ;
they all have an air of neatness and comfort about them. Oaks and
the pine are almost the only trees met with, and one is somewhat
surprised that even these should be found; for the country is, to
appearance, a barren waste, and many miles of it are quite unproduc-
tive for agriculture. The scarlet heath, blue oxalis, and the yellow
compositae, not only enliven this waste, but give it somewhat the
character of the flowery prairies of Oregon. The sandy soil looked
like the sea^shore, and bears indubitable marks of having been once
covered by the ocean.

VOL. V,

2M 55

434 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

The estates of Constantia lie east of the Table Mountain, on False
Bay, and fronr) their pecuHar situation are adequately watered by the
mists condensed by that lofty mountain. The soil of these estates is
far from being rich, but is rather a light and in some places a gravelly
soil The graperies lie for the most part on the slope to the southeast,
while some are situated on the low lands, which are carefully ditched
to preserve them dry. They are divided into fields of some four or
five acres each; the grape-vines are planted in rows four feet apart,
they are never permitted to grow higher than three feet, and the whole
is kept free from grass and weeds. In the spring, the vines are pruned;
the grapes come to maturity in April ; while they are growing, all
unnecessary leaves and sprouts are removed, to give frqe access to the
sun and air, and full advantage of the growth of the parent stock*

The grapes are allowed to remain on the vines until almost con-
verted into raisins : they are then carefully examined, and all the
decayed and bruised ones removed, before being gathered. The same
process is used for expressing the grape here as at Madeira; but they
have in some places advanced a step, and use the screw-press. The
buildings for the storage of the wines are of one story, and arranged
into three apartments; two of these are appropriated to the manufac-
ture of the wine, and the third to that which is kept ripening for sale.
The wines are of four kinds, Pontac, Frontignac, and the white and
red Constantia. These are named in the order of their celebrity and
price, which is usually a fixed one: the wine here is sold by the aam

4 ■

and half aam, equivalent to a barrel and half barrel; the cost for the
last quantity is one hundred dollars for the first kind, eighty-five for
the second, seventj^-five for the third, and sixty for the fourth. To
L. V. Renen, Esq., the proprietor of the High Constantia, we are in-
debted for many attentions. The grounds of Constantia w^ere orna-
mented with some plaster statues of Hottentots and Caffres, which
were said to represent the true type of these natives, but we had no
opportunity of judgin

I paid a visit to the Cape observatory, famous from the labours of
Sir John Herschell, on the southern constellations* It is now in charge

Maclear

'5

I-
:^

4.

f

engaged in the measurement of an arc of the meridian. His assistant
Mr. Smyth, and Lieutenant Wilmot, of the magnetic observatory,
showed us the instruments. Lieutenant Wilmot has four non-com-
missioned artillery officers for his assistants. The day of our visit

* Just previous to our departure, we were informed that some true Hottentots were in the
town jail ; the last place one would have thought of looking for them. The intelligence
CMne too late to make use of it.

I

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 435

happened to be term-day, when an almost uninterrupted series of
^1 observations are taken; our stay was therefore but short, as I was

dismclined to interrupt the constant duties of the observers. During
our visit at the observatory, the weather was beautifully clear ; no
clouds were to be seen except over the Table Mountain, and objects
viewed across the sandy plain were much distorted by^ refraction.

The botanists attached to the Expedition attempted, during our
stay, to ascend to the top of Table Mountain ; but having taken a path
different from that usually pursued, they were arrested by the per-
pendicular wall when about six hundred feet below the top, A great
collection of botanical specimens amply repaid them for their disap-
pointment. They visited the valley between Table Mountain and the
DeviPs Peak, and found it to consist of a dry spongy soil, densely
covered with Rutacese, intermixed with low bushes of Heath, Thyme-
lacese, Diosmas, and Compositse, having a close resemblance and
analogy to the upland bogs of New Zealand.

The drives around Cape Town are pleasant; the one to Green
Point is the most agreeable : this is a straggling village, with the
houses having pretty gardens in front, laid out in the English style:
the distant view of the ocean, with the heavy surf breaking upon
the rocky coast, are fine objects to seaward. The sides and tops of
the hills in the rear are bare of trees, but the roads are lined with Cacti
of large growth, giving to the scenery a decidedly tropical character.
Green Point has a municipal government, and elects its commissioner
and ward-masters in the same manner as Cape Town. The light-
house is within this district : it is quite unworthy of the name, being
decidedly the most inferior British establishment I have seen. This
surprised me the more, because there is here a great necessity for a

brilliant light.

There is a Commercial Exchange at Cape Town, possessing a

public library, consisting of about thirty thousand volumes, and con-
taining a reading-room, as well as a large hall, which is used for the
public meetings and festivities of the inhabitants.

Different sects of Christians are vying with each other, to carry
civilization and the gospel to the tribes in the interior; but as usual,
there are many who deny the purity of their principles, and spread
scandalous reports concerning their operations.

The walks near the town are pretty, and kept in neat order. One
that leads along the brook in the rear of the town, whose banks are
occupied by hosts of washerwomen, is peculiarly picturesque; as soon
as you ascend to the top of the hill, you overlook the town, bay, and

436 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

I

shipping, and gain a view of the sandy plain and distant mountains,
with Robben's Island and Green Point in the distance.

Among the objects of interest at the Cape, is the Botanical Garden
of the Baron von Ludwig. To his liberality we are much indebted
for plants and seeds; and in fact every thing that our botanists desired
was placed at their disposition* The garden is surrounded by a
brick wall, and situated near the foot of the Lion's Rump; its soil was
originally poor, but it has been much enriched by manure. The
collection of plants, both native and exotic, is good, but the season of
flowers was over. The native bulbs, which form the great beauty of
the collections here, had passed, and but a few Amaryllidse, and some
varieties of the Oxalis, remained in bloom. Many curious specimens
of African plants were noticed, particularly some Zamias, Strelitzias,
Aloes, and Testudinarias. Of the former we brought home a fine
specimen, whose fruit, which resembles in shape a large pine-apple,
is eaten by the Bushmen, and is said to be palatable when properly
prepared. The collection of East Indian plants was in fine order, and
numerous specimens of the Cacti attracted our notice.

The portion of ground allotted as a flower-garden contains a fine
collection of roses and dahlias, of ornamental shrubs and annuals.
There is also a vegetable-garden, while fruit trees are interspersed
here and there throughout the whole. The proprietor furnishes tickets
of admission to all who desire them ; but his rules and regulations as
to the hour of entrance, and respecting the police of the garden, must
be strictly observed.

The plants furnished us by the Baron have flourished admirably
since our return.

Tanks of some extent have been erected by the government, to
preserve water for the use of the town and shipping. I was not
aware at first that any necessity for them existed, but was afterwards
informed that the town has, at times, suffered severely from drought.

The climate of the Cape is usually considered salubrious, and par-
ticularly renovating to constitutions enfeebled by a long residence in
fndia-

If one were to place full reliance on the assertions of its inhabitants,
Cape Town and the surrounding country possess a perfection of
climate to be met with in no other part of the world ; but this, it is to
be regretted, is not fully corroborated by the testimony of the meteoro-
logical registers thai have been kept, as well as the experience of those
who have written upon the subject. It has many peculiarities, and
may be termed rather a cold climate for its latitude* The mean

t

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 437

I

temperature throughout the year is 67|°. The extremes vary 10'
above and as much below the mean. It is classed by its inhabitants
under the warm and equable climates; yet, notwithstanding, in many
situations, it is extremely variable : the thermometer will fluctuate ten
degrees in as many minutes, producing an unpleasant sensation of
cold ; this is owing to the chilly winds that sweep down from the
Table Mountain in blasts, to equalize the density of the atmosphere
rarefied by being in contact with the heated soil beneath. But little
difference is observed between the temperature of sunshine and shade
in free and open situations.

This variation of climate is ascribed to the winds: the southeast
winds prevail for the most part of the year, and are warm; these are
succeeded by the cold winterly winds, which invariably bring fog and
misty weather ; but in viewing the situation of the Cape with respect
to ihe large bodies of water flowing past it, it would seem more rea-
sonable to impute it to the warm tropical and cold polar currents of
water, of whose existence w^e have given ample proof in the preceding
pages; for if the winds were alone to be taken into account, that
which comes from the southeast, in the southern hemisphere, ought to
produce the cold, while the west and northwesterly winds should be
warm. The sudden changes of temperature mentioned above are
merely local, and often confined within narrow limits.

At our anchorage in the bay this occurrence was strikingly percep-
tible, not only by the thermometer but from the eflfect produced on our
own feelings ; while in the town, although the change could be felt,
still it was not so remarkable. The inhabitants assert that these
changes occur oftenest during the prevalence of a strong southeast
wind; but my own experience leads me to believe that they take
place during the night, and particularly when a calm prevails, or but
a slight breeze is blowing, and indeed all the facts connected with it
would lead me to the opinion that such must be the case. Although
all seem to be aware of these variations of temperature, I did not learn
of any observations that have been taken that could be relied on for

+

accuracy.

Thermometers in different parts of the town, of course, give very
discordant results, and all meteorological observations ought to be
taken in situations as far as possible removed from the influence of
these chancres. The southeast winds are often so violent as to prevent
communication between the shipping and the shore during some parts
of the day, and often cause damage to the small boats, or to the vessels

themsel

ves.

be

in the morninc', previous to the occurrence of these winds.

2M2

438 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Before concluding my remarks on the climate of the Cape, it is
necessary to advert to the curious effects of refraction that are often
observed. A strange distortion of objects is frequently seen, and even
at a short distance from Robben's Island the surf sometimes appears
to be thrown up into lofty jets of foam, or a wave is so distorted that
it seems rolling in high enough to submerge the whole island. These
distortions occur not only in the sea but in the land view. I noticed
them during our visit to the observatory, and now call attention to
them again, because the same effect seems to be produced on sea or
on land by contrary causes. When at sea, refractions have been
observed by us, whenever the thermometer at the masthead showed a
higher degree of temperature than that at the surface of the water;
but at the Cape the current of air in contact with the heated and
sandy soil must be of a higher temperature than that immediately
above it, and thus causes the distortion of distant objects ; or the fact
may be accounted for on the supposition of two parallel currents of
different temperatures, moving in opposite directions, and beyond any
immediate influence of the earth. I know of no place so favourable
to the observation of this description of atmospheric phenomena as
the Cape and its vicinity.

The population of the Cape colony, by the returns in 1841, was one
hundred and fifty-three thousand, on an area of one hundred and nine
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four square miles. The deaths
amount annually to about one in forty. The coloured population
exceeds the white by about ten thousand. A table containing the last
statistical returns will be found in Appendix XV. Landed estates in
the colony are generally held by those cultivating them, under a lease,
and not in fee. The early settlers had not sufficient funds to enable
them to purchase as large farms as were necessary, and the present
system was in consequence resorted to. The leases, however, were
made perpetual, and the farms held under this tenure are known in the
colony as "Loan Farms;" they contain about three square miles, and
there are many of this description still existing: these are con-
sidered as desirable tenures, being good as long as the rent is regularly
paid, which is generally at the low rate often dollars for the tract. The
lands, however, about the Cape, and in the Cape district, were obtained
by grants, and are now known as " Gratuity Farms."

There are likewise freehold estates, w^hich consist of a small farm,
nol much exceeding one hundred acres. These, I was told, were in
the immediate vicinity of Cape Town. They were usually obtained
by purchase of the first settlers.

The system of quit-rents is in perpetuity, and the rent is made to

>

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 439

depend upon the quality and circumstances of the crop. These are the
,argest kind of estates, and seldom include less than five to eight
thousand acres.

The sale or transfer of land was also novel to us. No land can be
sold, unless the persons mal<e application at the Cape, to oflicers
appointed, called connmissioners, whose duty it is to see that all liens
on the land, such as bonds and mortgages, are all paid up; and the
liabilities are fully protected ; and the person wishing to sell must have
permission of the one who may hold any claim on the estate, before he
can legally dispose of his property ; and the consent of the mortgagee
must be obtained in writing before the debt can be transferred with the
property.

The day previous to our departure, I had the pleasure of again
meeting Captain Belcher, who was now on his way home in the Sul-
phur. He had just arrived with his ship in Simon's Bay, where the
English men-of-war anchor, as Her Majesty's dockyard is situated
there : it is considered a safer harbour than Table Bay ; but from what
I heard of its conveniences, it seems ill adapted for a place to refit ; and,
indeed, I was told that this is seldom attempted. Our stay was not
sufficiently long to enable any of us to visit it, and little inducement
appeared to be held out to go there by those under whose guidance we
had placed ourselves. Having transacted all our business, and finished
our necessary observations, we prepared for departure. Before taking
leave of the Cape, I must be permitted, in the name of myself and of
the officers of the Expedition, again to tender our warmest thanks for
the attention paid us by many gentlemen, who afforded us many facili-
ties in the acquisition of information or the pursuit of pleasure. Among
those to whom we were chiefly indebted for these kindnesses, were
our consul, Isaac Chase, Esq., and Messrs- Thompson and Pillars.

Supplies of all kinds can be obtained at the Cape, and usually at
reasonable prices ; the bread we purchased,' made from native flour, was
of excellent quality; fruit also, though considered out of season by the
inhabitants, could be purchased in any quantity, either in the markets
or from the bumboats alongside of the vessels. The usual facilities for
watering are rather deficient: there are no floating tanks, and some

inconvenience results from the use of casks.

On the 17th, we got under way with a light and baffling wind. The
air was from the eastward aloft, while a westerly breeze blowing below
it, often took our lower sails aback ; still the upper ones were full. By
constant attention and frequent swinging of the yards, we effected a
passage through the northern channel, passing at a short distance from

440 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Robben's Island, on whose shore we saw, as usual, the breaking surf
curiously refracted.

Robben's Island is now used as a place of confinement for criminals,
who are employed in the quarries to furnish stone for paving and
building. The stone is a schistus, and commonly known at the Cape
as blue flag.

As we cleared the island, objects to seaward were seen refracted in
a manner that I had never before observed so distinctly. As before
stated, there was an upper and an under current in the atmosphere,
and these strata were of different temperature. The thermometer at
the masthead marking 73^, while that on the deck stood at no more

than 59°. A ship about three miles distant in the offing, was seen
vertically and horizontally refracted at the same time. Her courses
and topsails appeared ill-defined, shapeless, and quivering; her bow-
sprit and head-spars formed curves, while her jib and flying-jib were
drawn out in nearly horizontal lines. Above, her topgallant-sails and
royals were seen perfectly well defined ; a distinct line of bluish haze
divided them from the lower sails, and could be traced to about sixty
degrees on each side, until it joined with the horizon.

A signal made by this ship at the time, showed in faint colours, as

if flying from her peak and fore-topsail-
yard at the same time. The annexed
wood-cut, from a sketch made at the time,
will give a better idea of this appearance.
The angle subtended between the line
of haze and the horizon, was twenty-five
minutes.
The temperature of the water was often tried: it was found to stand
at about the same temperature as when we entered on soundings,
varying little from 64°. After running off" about thirty miles from the
coast, the temperature of the air rose to the same point.

On the 19th, Joseph Sylva (boy), died of phthisis. He had been
long lingering, and was apparently affected with the disease when
taken on board at Oahu, a few months previously.

^ ■ ■

We now shaped our course for St. Helena, which I was desirous of
reaching at the earliest day, in order to intercept the two brigs, and if
a further supply of bread could be obtained there, to proceed with them
directly for the United States.

Our passage to St. Helena was of the ordinary length, thirteen days;
we had very light wdnds and a smooth sea, indicating that a long calm
had existed. Northerly currents generally prevailed, though at times

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 44^

setting to the eastward and westward of that point. On the 30th of
April, in the latitude of 23° S., and longitude 2° 40' E., we entered the
trades, from which time until our arrival at St. Helena on the 1st of
May, we experienced no currents.

The appearance of the island disappointed us : its height and size
were much less than we anticipated. It is but a bare and barren rock,
rising abruptly from the sea; and the only thing remarkable is the
succession of batteries, which are seen occupying every nook and
corner where cannon could be placed, from the water-line to the
highest peak. All now serve but to recall to mind the extraordinary
man for whose safe-keeping so much cost and care had been bestowed.
From the outward view of St. Helena, it seems scarcely necessary to
have incurred so much expense and provided such means for the safe-
keeping of Napoleon; for the island itself is almost inaccessible on all
sides ; its bare rocks rising several hundred feet perpendicularly from
the water. To reach the roadstead it is necessary to pass within a
short distance of the rocks, and -close along them until the valley of
Jamestown is reached, which offers the only anchorage. Here it is
often difficult to procure a good berth, as the roadstead is frequently
crowded with vessels.

On our arrival w'e were informed that the Porpoise and Oregon

had sailed but a short time previously; all were well, and their stay

at the island had been short. Six American ships were at anchor in

the roadstead w'hen we arrived, and three more came in the day after,

making in all ten ships and a schooner bearing the flag of our own
country.

In addition to these w*ere two English and one Swedish vessel, and
a Dutch sloop of war. Several captured slavers, all of which had
oeen condemned, were seen, cither partly broken up, or lying on shore
preparatory to that process ; and one, a Baltimore clipper, captured

under Portuguese colours, was fitting as a British cruiser, to be em-
ployed against vessels in the same nefarious traffic.

Soon after anchoring, we were visited by our consul, Mr. Carrol,
who offered us every assistance; he made arrangements for procuring
us a supply of water, and a party for that purpose was permitted to
remain on shore all night at the jetty. This is the only place at which
either passengers or goods can be landed: it is furnished with suitable
cranes and stairs; but even v^ith these, it is not w^ell adapted for the
accommodation of visiters or trade. Precautions have been evidently
taken to discourage a landing; a small guard is always kept on duty
at the guardhouse and drawbridge. From the landing-place a narrow-
road leads along the face of the perpendicular cliff, towards the gate

VOL. V. 56

•

#

442 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

of the fortress and town, at the mouth of the valley, which is here
crossed by a strong and lofty wall, pierced with embrasures, on which
guns are nnounted. The only entrance into the garrison of James-
town, from the water's side, is over a drawbridge, which crosses a
Wide moat, and through a large gateway.

We gladly accepted our consul's invitation to visit his family, and,
after passing the gateway just mentioned, entered the town, which
has every appearance of a well-kept garrison, ll is of small extent,
the mouth of the valley or rather gully in which it is built, not being
more than five or six hundred yards wide, and narrowing quickly as
it ascends. The houses are seldom more than two stories in height :
that of the consul is situated near the forks of two narrow streets,
from both of which are extended zigzag roads up the almost per-
pendicular sides of the gully. An inclined railway of several hun-
dred feet in perpendicular height is built up the side of the western
cliff, called Ladder Hill, on which provisions and water were hoisted,
by soldiers who were under punishment, for the supply of a numerous
garrison that formerly occupied the forts on its summit. This railway
or ladder is a conspicuous object from the anchorage, and from it the
cliff derives its name.

The interior of the island of Si. Helena is uninteresting, and when
compared with those we had recently visited, may be said to be
devoid of beauty- It possesses nothing to recommend it to the notice
of a stranger, except its connexion with Napoleon's exile. It is said
this island was first suggested as a place of confinement for the great
prisoner by the Duke of Wellington, who had himself been detained
there for some months, while on his way from India, and was forcibly
impressed with its natural strength and adaptation for his confinement.

To the circumstance of the residence of Napoleon this island owes
not only its chief celebrity, but, as a consequence, its temporary
growth and prosperity : and with the removal of his remains, St.
Helena will revert to what it was formerly.

On his first landing, the ex-emperor occupied the very apartments
formerly used by the Duke of Wellington ; but was, the next day, at
his own request, removed to the " Briars,'* a retired country cottao^e,
situated in the small ** bosom" at the head of the gully of Jamestown.

The only collection of houses is Jamestown ; and, although situated
in a narrow gorge, it is the best locality on the island for a town.
The space occupied by it has been as much improved as was possible,
and the place has rather a cheerful appearance ; more, however, from
the diversified character of its inhabitants, than from the neatness and
architecture of its buildings. The variety of costume is greater than

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 443

\

one would expect, ranging from ihe well-dressed English soldier to the
Oriental costumes of India and China. There are many quadroons,
who are said to be descendants of the natives of Madaj;ascar, brou^^ht

O^^^"^ Q

here originally by the Dutch. They were pointed out to me as re-
markable for their beauty, and many of them have certainly, it must
be acknowledged, well-developed and even handsome forms ; which,
from appearances, they are fond of exhibiting, and to which their style
of dress is well adapted.

Extortion is here carried to its height, and although the stay of the
stranger is only for a few hours, the time is sufficient to make him
aware that he has submitted to some exorbitant demand, if his curi-
osity have led him to visit Longwood and the tomb of Napoleon.

Mr. Carrol was kind enough to make arrangements for our visiting
Longwood and the tomb, and it was decided that we should set out at
an earlv hour the next morning.

Captain Hudson, Mr. Waldron, and myself, accordingly landed at
the jetty early the next day, and found waiting for us a small wagon
with two stout horses, in which we seated ourselves, and were driven
to the American consulate. We were there joined by Mr. Carrol,
and taking the eastern road, commenced ascending the narrow track
leading up the side of the cliff. The road seemed to have been carried
over some places with great difficulty; heavy walls were built in some
places to form the road, while in others the path was blasted out of the
rock. As we ascended, w^e had a bird's-eye view of the town and
the gorge in which it lies. The houses and their inhabitants were
alike reduced in size, and we experienced the accuracy of the poetical
assertion " that distance lends enchantment to the view," for from our
elevated position all appeared neat and clean. The hospitals for the
troops are situated in the upper end of the valley, in a space too con-
tracted for comfort. Their appearance is strongly in contrast with
that of those usually attached to British garrisons, and led to some
inquiries on my part as to the necessity for their confined position.
The island being usually healthy, and infectious diseases but seldom
prevailing, quarantine is performed at Lemon Valley, or rather it was
used for that purpose during our visit ; a number of recaptured slaves,
among whom the small-pox had made its appearance, being detained
there.

The first object of interest that presents itself as connected with the
residence of Napoleon, is the cottage at the Briars, to which he was
removed soon after his arrival It is situated in a small dell at the
head of the gully, and has attached to it some ten acres of ground, laid
out in walks and flower-beds. There are many similar spots on the

444 CAPEOFGOODHOPE.

island, which are known by the name of " bosoms ;" none of theai, how-
ever, so striking, nor having such an air of quiet and comfort as that
just mentioned. Its beauties are more strongly impressed by the
marked contrast they afford to the arid and barren rocks of the gully
side, up which we had been making our ascent under a burning sun.
The only vegetation on the surrounding hills was a few Cacti and wild
vines, and some firs that were imported from Scotland about fifty
years ago. The high ground of the island was of equal altitude, there
being but few points above the general level. On reaching it, we felt a
sensible change of temperature, the air becoming raw and disagree-
able. Turning to the eastwardj we proceeded three miles along the
road, and then turned into the path which leads to the quiet dell in
which the tomb is situated. The road soon became so steep that we
were obliged to alight from the carriage, and descend on foot to the
cottage occupied by the widow Talbot, who furnishes refreshments to
visiters, and who takes care to let it be known that it is customary to

r

pay for them, whether you partake or not. Her continued whinings
about her poverty, the injustice of the British government, and the
unfulfilled promises of the Prince de Joinville, are singularly out of
place, and at variance with the thoughts with wliich one's mind is
occupied when visiting such a spot. In the rear of the cottage, at the
end of the dell, and about thirty yards distant, is the tomb.

On the banks of ihe dell, a few yews, cedars, and weeping-willows,
are growing ; while in its centre stands the old and now leafless willow,
which seems, like the Emperor, to have been killed by the treatment it
has received. A spring of pure and delicious water bubbles from the
rock near by ; to it we retreated to avoid the annoyance occasioned
by the monotonous uhiningsof an old sergeant. He talked continually

of the length, breadth, and depth, of the vault, told us of how many
slabs it was formed, how they were cemented together, how opened,
and many other particulars of so little importance, that I shall not
trouble my readers by repeating them. We at last put an end to the
garrulity by paying him the expected shilling, and walking off out of
hearing. This is an annoyance to which all who have visited the tomb
have been subject, and which does away with half the satisfaction of
the pilgrimage. We, drank some water from the spring, received a
bouquet of the Napoleon geranium from the little girls, and returned to .
the cottage, which we found crowded with Dutch officers, who were
devouring the widow's eatables as if determined to have the worth of
their money; from their great appetites she told us she anticipated but
little profit. Scarcely had they finished eating, when their pipes were
put in requisition, and a cloud of smoke not only filled the apartment,

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

445

but issued in all directions from its doors and windows. I have seldom
seen so little regard paid to the comfort of others, or so little respeci
shown to the resting-place of the mighty dead, as by these officers.

After satisfying the claims of the widow, and disposing of certain
relics obtained through her as marks of special favour, we departed for
Longwood, about two miles further on. The road is good and nearly
level, running along the top of a barren ridge; on our way we passed
the *' Tap-room," immediately opposite to which was the dwelling of
the Count Bertrand. The horizon is visible from the road, both to the
north and east; and on either side the eye wanders beneath into the
deep and inaccessible gullies, from which their gloomy and uninviting
character have obtained the appropriate name of the Devil's Gorge, &c.

^4^«. ■^'■'"

■**-;

LONGWOOD.ST HELENA

The day on which we paid this visit was called by the inhabitants a
fine one, but we thought the air damp and chilly, and were glad to
draw our cloaks closely around us. We soon reached the gate, and
were stopped until we paid the usual fee of two shillings sterling for
each person. The house is at present leased by the government to a
Captain Mason, a retired army officer, for one hundred and fifty pounds
per annum, and by his order the entrance fee is demanded before the
gate is opened. Mr. Carrol pointed out to us ihe sites of the camps of
observation, and other spots in the neighbourhood, interesting from

associations connected with the residence of Napoleon.

2N

As we drove

ty

446 CAPE OF GOOD HOPR

towards the house, every thing wore a neglected look, to all appearance

hitentional.

The vignette gives a correct representation of Longwood, which is
now but little better than a barn ; the glass of the windows is broken,
and the outward walls much disfigured. The door at which visiters
are admitted is covered with a small latticed veranda, and leads into
what is called the billiard-room, although it seems much too small ever
to have been used for that purpose; its walls are covered with

F

scribbling, and its general appearance is dirty and neglected. The
next apartment is about fourteen by seventeen feet, said to have been
used as a dining-room, and in which Napoleon died ; it is now occupied
by a patent thrashing and winnowing machine, and was strewed with
chaff and straw. The adjoining room had been used as a library; its
present state was disgusting, and it seemed as if appropriated to the
hatching of chickens. The bath, bed, and dressing-rooms, which he
occupied at the commencement of his illness, are now in part used as a
stable. The place in which his body lay in state, contains eight stalls,
five of which were occupied by horses and cattle.

If the design had been to desecrate as much as possible the habita-
tion that had been occupied by the fallen Emperor, it could not have
been more effectually accomplished; but whatever may be the motive,
whether intentional or otherwise, it certainly redounds little to the
credit of the British nation. The miserable condition of Longwood
when we visited it was a subject of general animadversion. The
money derived from the lease of the property is paid into the Queen's
treasury, no part of this small sum being retained to keep the building
in repair; nor are there any conditions in the lease that compel the
lessee to do it. It is with regret I am compelled to state that the
lessee is a military man, and an officer in the British army.

Longwood is bleak and exposed; the damp trade-winds sweep past
it continually, and but few days in the year are without either mist or
rain. The valley of Jamestown is known to be dry and healthy ; there
are some other spots also on the island that enjoy a climate as fine as
any on the globe. One of these might have been chosen as a residence,
which would have proved much more congenial to the taste, and
better suited to the constitution of the Emperor. Plantation House, for
instance, the country-seat of the governor, enjoys, by all accounts, a
delightful climate.

The grounds of Longwood cannot be called pretty, but from the

constant moisture the herbage is greener than in other parts of the
island. There are no trees, but the shrubbery is dense around the
gardens. The new house at Longw^ood is built of yellow sandstone,

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 447

one story in height, and is situated some hundred yards on the western
declivity, and is in some measure sheltered from the easterly winds.
It contains a handsome suite of rooms, and, when compared with the
old house, seems quite a palace. At the time of our visit it was occu-
pied by Lieutenant Smith, of the artillery, and his assistants, who have
charge of the magnetic observatory. The house has never been
finished: the death of the Emperor of course rendering its completion
unnecessary. It is said that during his life he never visited it, nor
would he allow^ any one to consult him about its plan, declaring that
he would not remove to it.

Napoleon seems to have engrafted himself on the memory of the
islanders; and all the events and little incidents occurring to him
during his residence, are remembered and cherished by them with
pleasure. His chief complaint regarded the system of espionage under
which he was placed, from the hour in which he gave himself up to
the English to that of his death. It has been asserted, and up to this
time without contradiction, that Sir George Cockburn, who com-
manded the Bellerophon, in which vessel Bonaparte was transported
to St. Helena, was ordered to make minutes of every conversation
that took place during the voyage* These memoranda have been
already published in Boston, and their authenticity, although denied,
seems to be unquestionable; for the publication emanated from the
prii

of the minutes, made another for himself. Although the ministry may
have thought themselves justified in taking this course at the time,
yet it seems, at this time, scarcely reconcilable with a high sense
of honour; and notwithstanding Sir George may have considered it
necessary to obey implicitly his orders, still the fact that he lent him-
self to such a service must injure his reputation-

In justice to Sir Hudson Lowe, it must be stated, according to what
I heard at the island, that his treatment of his royal captive was in
strict conformity to his instructions, and that, as far as his orders were
concerned, he was allowed no discretion. Many of the inhabitants
know that he tried in several ways to ameliorate the condition of his
prisoner, but he was not permitted to do so.

I trust that what I have said upon this subject will not be construed
as disrespectful to a high-minded and friendly government, or be cast-
ing any odium on the many honourable and courteous British officers
it has been my good fortune to meet in many parts of the globe, and
who have extended to me and my officers the most grateful civilities ;
but I could not forbear the expression of my sentiments when I con-

448 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

template the prison-house of Napoleon, and the ignoble condition and

uses to which it is put. •

The officer in charge of the magnetic observatory connplained that
it was badly placed, and that both his instruments and observations
suffered from the constant change of temperature, and the damjjiess
of the situation. He politely showed us the instruments, which were
in a detached building ; after which we returned to Longwood, and
soon after left it, glad to escape from the mist and driving wind that
enveloped it.

From Longwood we took the road to Plantation House, which
leads across the island, making numerous turns as it ascends and
descends the gullies. Many pretty dells were occupied by neat
cottages, in w^hose gardens were cultivated potatoes and other vege-
tables. Of the former, two crops are obtained within the year, and a
ready sale is found for them to the vessels that visit the island. On
our arrival at the porter's lodge of Plantation House, we were in-
formed that the governor, Colonel Trelawny, had gone to Jamestown,
and that the ladies of the family w^ere not visible. We therefore, so

far as time permitted, examined the grounds, which are laid out with

taste, and contained a good collection of foreign trees. Some of these

were very flourishing, and it was curious to see many trees of Euro-
pean species growing side by side with those of Australia.

Our botanists were of opinion that the tradition which prevails of
the island, at the time of its discovery, having been covered with
wood, is erroneous; and that the story of the destruction of this forest
by goats, is equally so. The barrenness of this island is well illus-
trated by the difficulty with which young trees are preserved from the
ravages of sheep or goats. Pasture is so scarce, that but few cattle
are kept, and these are chiefly importations from the Cape of Good
Hope. Their scarcity may be judged of from the price of beef, which
sells for twenty-five cents a pound ; and it may be as well to state, that
to strangers the prices of all other eatables are equally exorbitant.

Prom the road near Plantation House, we had a good view of the
gully in which Jamestown is situated, together with the ravines ex-
tending into it from the interior of the island. Descending, we passed
over a portion of the island, which is little better than a barren rock.
Yet in some places comfortable-looking houses were seen, and here
and there a beer-house, or tap-room, quite in the English style, and,
from all accounts, as great nuisances as low taverns are in any coun-
try. We finftlly reached the fortification on Ladder Hill, and made
the descent of the zigzag road on the side of the cliff, passing a place

/

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 449

called Colonel Pearce's Revenge, where the road is completely over-
hung by large masses of rock, which seem ready to fall The rapid
pace of the horses, the frequent sharp turns, and the overhanging cliff,
excite some alarm in those not accustomed to them ; and I must con-
fess that I was quite satisfied when we passed the last turn, and were
safely landed at the consulate.

On our return to Jamestown, the consul and myself called to pay
our respects to Colonel Trelawny, whom we found at his office; he is
a tall well-formed man, with a pleasant expression of countenance,
and a frank soldierlike air. He is much respected by the inhabitants,
has made himself acquainted with their wants, and is doing his best to
satisfy them. They call him the "good man/' in contradistinction to
his predecessor. He received us with great kindness, and asked me
to visit and spend some days at Plantation House.

Several hundreds of recaptured slaves are at present inhabiting the
gullies to the eastward and westward of Jamestown- The most con-
venient way of visiting them is by sea; some of our officers expressed
a desire to do so, but the inhabitants seemed much shocked at the
mere mention of such a wish. The males and females are separated,
and both sexes are supplied with rations by government.

The population of the island is about four thousand. It consists of
whites, who, if the garrison be deducted from their numbers, form the
smallest portion of the inhabitants ; of negroes and their descendants
of the mixed blood, and some few Chinese. The negroes were
brought by the East India Company from Madagascar, and, with
their descendants, now form the largest portion of the population.
The first class include all engaged in trade, auctioneers, tavern-keepers,

and mechanics.

The number of Yankee " notions" displayed in all the shops. Indi-
cated that the island derives its chief supply of useful articles from the
United States,
j St. Helena is a free port: the imports consist of supplies for the

inhabitants, and necessary articles for the shipping that visit it; the
latter can only be obtained at an advanced price.

The number of vessels that touch annually at the island is now
about eight hundred, having much increased since the opening of the
East India trade.

The usual rates of exchange, with the value of coins current, fixed

by proclamation, will be found in Appendix XVI.
We embarked in the afternoon, regretting that our time was so

limited, and that no opportunity was aflx^rded us to return the kind
attentions bestowed upon us by the consul and his family.

VOL. v.

2N3 57

450 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

As we were getting under way, it became evident that many of the
seamen had obtained supplies of grog from the shore, in spite of all
the precautionary measures that had been taken. One, in conse
quence, fell from the main-top, but, fortunately for him, while falling,
struck a portion of the rigging, and' was thus canted into the sea,
from which he was picked up uninjured. . When the anchor was up
we bore away to the northward, under all sail, with a favourable

breeze.

As w^e passed through the tropics, many opportunities were aflbrded
us for viewing the zodiacal light, both in the morning and the even-
ing. Its general appearance was that of a well-defined cone, whose
height, as marked by the stars, remained nearly constant at 40° ele-
vation, and at the base IS"^, Its first appearance after sunset w^as like

^

a broad semicircular band of light, the brightness of which increased
as the evening closed in, when its shape became that of a well-defined
cone. The light w^as sometimes equally diffused, and at others ap-
peared as if radiating through the cone. Its intensity varied from a
light equal to that given by a bright aurora to that of a comet, the centre
of the cone being* often the least brilliant; and during a partially cloudy
evening it was sometimes so bright as to obscure stars of the second
magnitude. Its appearance in the morning w^as belter defined than in
the evening, and the light was more of a blue than a yellow tint; the
altitude of the cone w^as greater, and its base of less extent. As w^e
changed our latitude, the position of the apex of the cone remained
stationary, but its inclination varied. For further information on these
phenomena, I must refer the reader to the volume on Physics.

On the 9th of May, we crossed the magnetic equator in latitude 9*^
20' S., and in longitude 16^ 40' W.

I had been led to expect in approaching the equator that we should
encounter strong currents setting to the north and w^estward, but our
observations showed that the current w^as slisht and flowing to the

May

o — '^ "^ o

miles N.SS*^ W.; the difference of temperature betw^een the surface
water and that at one hundred fathoms depth, was fifteen degrees.
On the 11th we experienced no current, neither had we any on the
12th or 13th. On the 14th, the current set us S. 72° W., thirty
two miles; and on reading the deep-sea thermometer, I thouo-ht thai
some mistake must have been made, as it had fallen since the las}
observation eight degrees. A second trial was therefore made; but
the result was the same, making the difference between the surface
temperature and that ai one hundred fathoms, nearly twenty-four
degrees.

l1

CAPEOFGOODHOPE. 451

The northeast trades were entered on the 15th of May; the diffe-
rence of temperature being similar, and the current setting us to the
southwest and west thirty-four miles. On the 16th we crossed the
equator, in longitude 30^ 30' W. At 6 a. m., the same day, the thcr-
mometer at one hundred fathoms depth rose to GS-S"^, being the same
temperature as that experienced before the 14Lh, when we encountered
the cold submarine current. We had crossed this current in a direc-
tion nearly at right angles to its flow, and I estimated its width at two
hundred miles. The current on the 19th still set to the southward;
the difference between the deep-sea and the surface temperature being
found to be again twenty-four degrees. This was also the case on the
20th, on which day 1 tried the temperature at fifty fathoms depth, and
there found it only five degrees lower than at the surface. This second
submarine stream was found to be about eighty miles in width: we
crossed it steering a northwest-by-north course. It may be that these
submarine streams flow here to the south, and produce the southerly

current we experienced. It was quite evident, from the numerous long
lines of rips that we passed, that opposing currents existed of great
force, which did not find their way to the surface. These rips extended
in a north -northwest and south-southeast direction.

During the next five days, we pursued our homeward course rapidly,
experiencing but little current. On the 26th, we reached the latitude
of 16^ N., and longitude 48^ 31' W, The temperature at one hundred
fathoms depth differed only three degrees from that at the surface, and
continued to vary between that and seven degrees, until we strucli
soundings.

On the 28th, we encountered quantities of the Fucus natans, or gulf-
weed, which was of a dark brown colour, and evidently undergoing
decomposition. The peculiarity of this weed arranging itself into long
strips in the direction of the wind, was distinctly seen. Some of these
were more than a mile in length, while at other times we passed
through fields of several acres in extent. During this and the previous
day, as well as the two following days, the current was found to set to
the southward, at the rate of about eighteen miles in twenty-four hours.

On the 2d of June, we had reached latitude 29° K, and longitude GS'"
W.; and the wind, which had been gradually hauling from the north-
ward and eastward round to the south-southwest, began to fail us. We
had light and variable breezes from this day until the 8th, when we
reached the neighbourhood of the Gulf Stream, and experienced the
weather that is peculiar to it. The lightning was very vivid, and the
rain fell in torrents ; its temperature was 63^. In the latter part of the

452 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

day it blew a strong gale from the eastward. I regretted this much,
as it was my intention to make full experiments on the deep tempera-
ture and the velocity of the current in the Stream ; but the roughness
of the sea and violence of the wind prevented it. The close proximity
to our port also, and the increasing impatience of all on board to reach
their homes, forbade all unnecessary delay. The experiments we did
make gave a difference of three degrees of temperature, between the
surface and one hundred fathoms depth. The highest temperature of
the surface experienced while crossing the Stream was 79° ; w^hen we
entered, it was 77^ We were seven hours in crossing it, and found,
as in our first passage, that the inner edge was the warmest. During
the next half hour after leaving the Gulf Stream, the surface tempera-
ture fell twelve degrees, and so continued until we got on soundings,
when it rose again some three or four degrees. The morning of the
9th was foggy, which rather tried our patience, but by firing guns we
attracted the attention of the pilot-boats, and on the fog clearing away
a little, discovered one close to us. A pilot now boarded and took
charge of the ship, and at noon on the 10th of June, 1842, anchored us
off Sandy Hook, w^here a steamer came alongside soon afterwards,
and took us In tow\ After stopping half an hour at the quarantine
ground, to receive the visit of the health officer, we held our course
towards the city of New York.

Before I left the Vincennes off the Battery, the crew were called to
muster, when I expressed to them my thanks for the manner in which
they had conducted themselves during the cruise, and stated the confi-
dent belief entertained by me, that they would receive from the govern-
ment such rewards as the successful performance of the cruise, and
their long and perilous services, entitled them to. A national salute
was then fired, and my pennant hauled down; the command of the
ship being given to Captain Hudson, who proceeded with her to the
navy-yard. As soon as she was safely moored, all the men who could
be spared were allowed to go on shore, with their bags and hammocks.
A happier set of fellows than they w^ere is not often to be met with j
being relieved from their long confinement on shipboard, and the severe
discipline of a man-of-war.

Those who have perused this full narrative of the events of the
Expedition, I confidently believe, will absolve me from all the charges
so industriously circulated against me, relative to the manner in which
I had conducted the Expedition; at the same time they will see what
meed of honour or reward is justly due to the officers and crews who
faithfully served out the cruise. All of the former, and many of the

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

453

latter, are still to be found on the rolls of the navy, and to them, T trust
that the applause of a grateful country has been only delayed, not
wholly lost.

On our arrival home, the health of the prisoner Vendovi had so far
declined, that it was necessary to place him in the Naval Hospital at

New York. Every attention was paid him there, but very soon after-
ward he expired-

The Porpoise and Oregon had, in the mean time, proceeded to Rio
Janeiro, where they executed their instructions, and having obtained
the necessary supplies, sailed for the United States. After leaving the
equator, their route differed but little from that pursued by the
Vincennes.

In their deep-sea soundings they found the same low temperatures
that we had noticed; and in crossing the Gulf Stream, the difference
of temperature between the surface and at one hundred fathoms was
but five degrees. Both vessels arrived at New York within a few
days of each other, and their crews were discharged in the same
manner as that of the Vincennes.

J /'

CAPE OF GOOD HOFE,

CHAPTER XIL

I

t

V

CONTENTS.

CONNEXION OF THE SUBJECTS - OPPORTUNITIES AND MEANS OF OBSERVING CUR-
RENTS—DISTINCTION BETWEEN STREAMS AND CURRENTS — CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH ATLANTIC -LABRADOR STREAM -GULF STREAM-RENNELL CURRENT-SUB<
MARINE POLAR STREAMS-GUINEA STREAM — EaUATORIAL STREAM — RECAPITUL A-
TION — SARGASSO SEA — STREAMS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC — BRAZIL STREAM —
PATAGONIAN STREAM— SOUTH AFRICAN STREAM-PHENOMENA OP THE NEIGHBOUR-
HOOD OF ST. HELENA — POLAR STREAM OFF CAPE HORN — ITS LOW SUBMARINE
TEMPERATURE— CHILI STREAM — PHENOMENA AT THE GALLIPAGOS ISLANDS-INDI-
CATION OF SUBMARINE POLAR STREAMS— PHENOMENA AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS—
AT THE SAMOAN GUOVP-^AT THE FEEJEE GROUP— AUSTRALIAN STREAM— SOUTHERN
POLAR STREAM — NEW ZEALAND CURRENTS — CURRENTS BETWEEN TONGA AND
FEEJEE-SUDDEN RUSH OF WATERS ON THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS— SPACE OF VERY
ELEVATED TEMPERATURE — PACIFIC EaUATORIAL STREAjV6 — PHENOMENA OF THE
SANDWICH ISLANDS-STREAMS OF THE NORTHWEST COAST— JAPAN STREAM — CUR-
RENTS OF THE CHINA SEAS — OP THE EAST COAST OF AFRICA — EaUATORIAL
STREAM OP THE INDIAN OCEAN — CURRENTS OF THE MALABAR COAST, CHAGOS,
AND COMORRO ISLANDS-STREAMS OP THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL -EQUATORIAL
STREAM OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC — GENERAL VIEW OP THE FACTS — ZONES OP
CALMS AND STILL WATERS— SUGGESTIONS IN RELATION TO THE THEORY OF CUR-
RENTS—CONNEXION OF THE OCEAN STREAMS WITH THE MIGRATIONS OF THE
SPERM WhALE— IMPORTANCE AND EXTENT OP THE WHALING INTEREST-CRUISING*
GROUNDS OF SPERM WHALERS— IN THE PACIFIC-IN THE ATLANTIC— IN THE INDIAN
OCEAN-DIRECTIONS FOR WHALING IN THE PACIFIC— RELATIVE TO THE DECREASE
OF WHALES -RIGHT WHALE FISHER Y'-DEPRAVED CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEA-
LAND AND AUSTRALIAN WHALERS-CASE OF THE AMERICAN WHALE-SHIP ADELINE

-RIGHT WHALE FISHERY IN HIGH LATITUDES - EXCITEMENT OF THE FISHERY —
SLAUGHTER AND TREATMENT OF THE PRODUCTS — PROFITS OF THE BUSINESS-
FREaUENCY OF DISPUTES BETWEEN THE MASTERS AND CREWS — REMEDIES SUG-
GESTED-PROPOSAL FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE MORALS AND COIVDITION OF
THE CREWS.

{4W)

• 1

m

t

r

e

_ 1^

■ i

. .^

CHAPTER XIL

CURRENTS AND WHALING.

It may at first sight appear singular that subjects apparently so dis-
similar as currents and whaling should be united to form the subject
of one chapter. Before its conclusion, however, we trust to establish
satisfactorily that the course of the great currents of the ocean,
sweeping with them the proper food of the great cetaceous animals,
determines not only the places to which they are in the habit of
resorting, but the seasons at which they are to be found frequenting
them.

In the devious and extensive cruise performed by the Exploring
Expedition, many, and perhaps greater opportunities than had before
been enjoyed by any one vessel or squadron were afforded for investi-
gating the course and direction of currents. The field of research

thus opened proved to be so vast that I cannot but regret that we had
not possessed still greater facilities for prosecuting the inquiry than we
could attain even in a voyage of such long duration. In particular,
simultaneous observations in difierent parts of the ocean, and their

conclusive.

iere requisite
satisfactory £

hope

curiosity and rouse the attention of future navigators, by whose
labours a sufficient number of facts may be collected upon which to
found a theory that will admit of no question.

To obtain the greatest practicable number of experiments with the
cuirent log, of which mention has been made in the first chapter, was
an object which claimed early attention, and which was kept con-
stantly in view throughout the cruise. I was however aware, as all

VOL V,

3 0 58 . (^)

458 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

those who have used this instrument extensively must be, that it is
liable to many objections, and that in particular if the current be
beneath the surface, or, for want of a better term, may be deTiominatcd
submarine^ no result can be obtained by its use. If not perfect, how-
ever, the current log was at least a useful indicator; and its regular
use, which was ordered to take-^ place whenever the state of the sea
would permit, served to keep the subject of currents continually before
us. It is unnecessary to recount the number of the experiments that
were performed ; suffice it to say, that they w^ere made both by day
and by night, and were persevered in until the record of them became
an ali:nost daily portion of our journals ; and the interest in them was
extended from the officers, until they became a subject^ of inquiry even
among the crews.

Upon the chart that exhibits the tracks of the squadron wiien united,
and of the vessels when separate, the direction and force of the upper
currents is indicated. The results thus expressed w^ere obtained by a
comparison of the position assigned to the vessels by the dead reckon-
ing, and the true place shown by astronomic observations. This
method, w^hen practised by good observers, and particularly when
furnished with chronometers of such excellence as can nov; be obtained,
is in my opinion that which is liable to the fewest objections. Still it
is to be desired that the allowances in the dead r-eckoning for lee-way,

ge, &c

certain as to admit them to be applied separately, and that less was
left to the mere judgment of the navigator- The use of steam in
navigation, and the introduction of improvements in the log, will pro-
bably bring about this desirable result.

In order to attain greater certainty, every calculation on which the
rate and direction of a current was founded, has been made anew since
the return of the Expedition; and it is trusted that the chart now ex-
hibits a full and correct representation of the action which influenced
the position of the vessels, freed in a great measure from the causes of
uncertainty of which I have spoken above.

On the same chart are represented the courses of the winds, and
the isothermal lines for every five degrees of the thermometer, from
30'' to 95^. The zones lying between these lines are coloured in tints

^

varying from cold to warm, in order that at a single glance the curves
may be conspicuous. By simple inspection it will be seen how close
is the connexion between the position of these lines and the figure of
the zones they enclose, with the flow of the streams of which I am
about to treat. It will at least be obvious that the distribution of the
temperature at the surface of the ocean is afTected bv causes very

CURRENTSANDWHALING. 45fl

different from those which are usually considered to be the only ones
in action.

In order to obtain precision of language, I have chosen to dis-
tinguish between streams and currents^ employing the former term to
express the movements of water by which the circulation of the great
mass of the ocean is maintained, and confining the latter to those less
extensive in their influence, or local in their effects; and the direction
from whence the great streams are derived as poJai^ and equatorial.

I shall now proceed to speak of the streams which we met with on
our voyage, citing, whenever it is necessary, such facts derived either
from general experience, or the authority of individual observers, as
may be useful to extend the inferences, or verify our own observations.

Immediately after our departure from the capes of Virginia, we felt
the influence of a stream setting to the southward, and parallel to the
coast. The existence of this was apparent from our first observation
of latitude. It may, however, often escape notice, as the navigator is
apt to ascribe the effect of this stream rather to an error in taking his
departure, than to a set of current. In order that the fact may be
clearly perceived, it is necessary that the distance of the vessel from
the lighthouse, or other object on shore with which the dead reckon-
ing begins, should be determined by precise observations, instead of
being merely estimated, as is the usual mode. Notwithstanding the
inaccuracy growing out of this cause, it has been long known to
seamen that a counter-current is setting close to the inner edge of the
Gulf Stream, and has been distinguished by them as its eddy. That
• it cannot be of the nature of an eddy of that heated body of water, is
evident from the great difference of temperature, which falls suddenly
fifteen or twenty degrees, in passing from the Gulf Stream into that
which flows in an opposite direction. The latter is also five to ten,
and even fifteen degrees colder, according to the season, than the
waters of our bays or rivers.
* The inner stream flowing to the southwest is now well known to

exist along our whole eastern coast and that of Nova Scotia, and the
1 masters of our packet-ships have by experience discovered the value

of which it may be to them in their homeward passage. This they
do by keeping to the north of the forty-second parallel until off Cape
Sable.

Tracing this stream in a direction opposite to its course to the most
distant part of Nova Scotia, it is found to be a part of one that flow^s
southwards along th§ shore of Labrador, and which is well know^n by
the name of that country. The Labrador Stream therefore flows along
the coast of the New Continent, from Davis's Straits as far to the south

460 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

at least as Cape Hatteras. It is consequently of that character which
is generally known as polar.

One of the strongest facts in support of the extension of this stream
to the farthest northern point we have named, lies in the transporta-
tion southward of vast masses of ice along the coast of Labrador,

which are met annually in May, June, and July, off the banks of
Newfoundland. This is a cause which affects in a most remarkable
manner the climates of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, and causes
the harbours even of the latter country to remain ice-bound to a late
period in the year. Nor is its influence believed to be of small amount
in the climate of our Eastern, or that of the sea-coast of our Northern

States.

The phenomena of the icebergs develope another fact in relation to
this current, namely, that where the influence of the current ceases to
be felt upon the surface, the body of its waters still continues its course
southwards beneath the flow of the Gulf Stream, which floats upon it
precisely as the fresh water of the large rivers of the New World are
to be seen for leagues from the shore flowing on the salt and denser
water beneath. The phenomenon to which we have reference is, that
icebergs near the Grand Banks have frequently been observed moving
rapidly to the southward and westward, in places where ships expe-
rience a current to the northward and eastward. The icebergs, float-
ing by the laws of specific gravity, with no more than one-tenth of
their mass above the surface, evidently are carried onward by a stream
flowing in the former direction, against whose force the action of the
superficial current on a part of their surface is of no avail, while ships
are wholly immersed in the latter, and obey its influence.

Here then we have an instance of two currents flowing one above
the other, in directions almost opposite to each other.

The Labrador Stream, besides being overspread by the waters of
the Gulf, the surface part of it is doubtless deflected from its flow to
the southward, and forced along the eastern coast till it is obstructed
very materially in the vicinity of George's Bank.

The position and supposed dangers of these banks, and the narrow-
ness of the Labrador Stream in passing them, has prevented navi-
gators from taking the full advantage they might have derived from
their knowledge of its existence.- Of the loss of time frequently grow-
ing out of this difficulty, I had myself an instance in a voyage from
Europe in the winter of 1836-37. Captain Hebberd, w^ho commanded
the vessel in which I was passenger, feared that he might approach
too near to the shoals of George's Bank and Nantucket, and therefore,
when opposed by a westerly wind, made tacks that carried him within

CURRENTS AND WHALING.

461

the influence of the Gulf Stream- Since that time, in the summer of
1837, I was employed in the survey of the shoal on George's Bank,
and after having explored every part of it, am satisfied that the alleged
dangers do not exist to the extent believed. During the continuance

of that survey, I spoke and made inquiries of many masters of coasters,
all of whom confirmed the fact of the existence of a stream of cold
water between the Gulf Stream and

soundings.

In this cold and

favouring stream, vessels homeward-bound may be kept without diffi-
culty or danger, by a due attention to the indications of the thermo-
meter and lead-line: the former showing when the adverse stream of
the Gulf is entered, the latter, when the variable currents of the shore
are met with, or the dangers approached. In the navigation of this
part of the ocean, great attention ought to be paid to keep within this
stream, by all those who desire to effect a speedy passage from Europe.
Circumstances afforded me a very favourable opportunity for obser-
vations upon the Gulf Stream. We met
which rendered our progress so slow, that we were forty-eight hours
in crossing it, during thirty-nine of which we were sailing at right
angles to its direction, a course the most favourable for the purpose.
The remaining nine hours we were heading the stream. The fact
of our having entered the stream was immediately detected by the
thermometer, indicating a sudden rise of the temperature of the
water; and the lightness of the wind enabled us to repeat the observa-
tions frequently. These observations are recorded in the following

■ r

register.

in it with light winds,

Aug. 20.

7 A.M.

TEMP, OP WATER. Aug. 21

u

(t

8

9

10

11 «

12 M.

4.ug. 21.

1 P.M.

(C

2
3
4
5 "

6

U

It

7
8
9

10
11
12

U

u

(t

it

ci

44

44

770

79

81

81

81-5

82-3

83

83

83

83
83

83
83

82
81
82

81
80

1 A.H,
2

44

44

3

4
5
6
7

8
9

10 •*

11 «

12 m.
Atig. 22.

1 P-M,

u

(C

41

U

U

U

3
3

44

44

M

4

5 »

6 •♦

TEMP. OF WATER.

80"

80
80

79
80
80
81
82
81

81
83
83

82
82

80
80

80
80

2 02

462

CURRENTS AND WHALING.

Aug. 22.

7 P.M.

TEMP. OF WATER. Aug. 93.

8

9
10
11
12

((

((

U

ti

u

1 A, M.

2

u

u

u

u

(C

u

3

4

5
6

,7
8

9

10

11

12 m.

U

u

cc

790

80

81

80
79
79
79
79
79
79
79

79
79
79
79
79
79
79

1 p. M.

2 p. H.

3
4
5
6
7
8
9

10
11
12

li

CI

((

((

K

(C

((

CC

cc

cc

1 A. Iff.

2 »

3 «
4
5
6
7

K

U

U

U

TEMP. OF WATER.

79='

81

81

80
80
80
80
80
79
79
78
78
78
80
79
79
78
77
77

It will thus be seen that the Gulf Stream is somewhat warmer to-

X

wards its inner edge than it is on the outer.

The calculations of the run of the ship gave fifty-three miles for
the breadth of the Stream at the place where we crossed it, namely,
on the parallel of 34^ 30', and for its velocity about two miles per
hour. All navigators, however, are aware of the fact, that both the
breadth and velocity of the Gulf Stream vary much, and that it occa-
sionally approaches much nearer to the coast than it does at other
times.

i

The approach of the Gulf Stream to our shores, has been ascribed

r

to the influence of northeasterly winds. These are known to affect
the tides in our bays and harbours, but I am unwilling to admit that
these are an adequate cause for the change in position and velocity
of so great a body of water. The action is far too trivial to account
for such an effect. It is certain, on the other hand, that the Gulf and
Labrador Streams both owe their existence to the unequal distribution
of temperature on the earth's surface; there must be a difference in
the intensity of the causes that act to produce these effects at different
seasons of the year, and it may be inferred that the changes of the
seasons act unequally upon the two streams. The force of the portion
of the Labrador Current, which follows the coast of the United States,
will, when superior, carry the Gulf Stream outwards, and when that
force diminishes, the Gulf Stream will approach more nearly to the
coast, and most nearly w^hen its own relative force is the greatest.

Whatever be the ultimate causes nf the streams, if would annftar that

I

\

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 463

their approximate causes aro influenced by temperature — the Gulf
Stream being increased in mass and velocity when the temperature is
highest, and the Laljrador Stream when it is lowest; and in conformity,
we find it a general impression that the former is broader and more
rapid in tlie summer of our climate than in winter. I must however
state, that I have been unable from my own personal observation, either
by the thermometer or the set of the vessel, to distinguish this increase
of the Gulf Stream in summer. Thus in my passage to England, in
August, 1836, from the time we passed to the eastward of George's
Bank, in a latitude about a degree to the south of it, we experienced a
low temperature in the water, and the vessel was retarded. We were
therefoi^e in the Labrador Current.

After the squadron had crossed the Gulf Stream, we experienced
little action from current until we reached Madeira, the whole differ-
ence between our dead reckoning and the true place of the ship being
no more than one hundred and seventy-five miles in twenty-six days.

Before leaving this part of our subject, it may be as well to refer to
facts familiarly known, but which did not come within the scope of our
observations. The stream known on our coast by the epithet of Gulf,
may often be traced upon the surface, but with diminished velocity,

entirely across the Atlantic, throwing at some seasons the seeds and
drift of tropical climates upon the British Islands, even as far north as
the Shetlands. At other times, when the Gulf Stream ceases to flov/,
or is overpowered by the great Polar Current, they are carried by the
latter to the southeastward, on the coast of Spain and Portugal, which
current has been so disastrous by the number of vessels that have been
wrecked on Cape Finisterre ; where it divides, one branch of it passing
around the shores of the Bay of Biscay, along the west coast of France,
and thence crossing the English Channel, which is now well known as
the Rennell Current ; while the main Polar Stream flows southward,
along the coast of Portugal towards Madeira, with a diminished
velocity, as a surface current.

That the stream which sets upon Cape Finisterre is the origin of

the Rennell Current, the following remarks by Horsburgh clearly
sh

ow.

eastw^ard. from March

particularly when westerly winds prevail; and off Cape Finisterre, and
near the south part of the Bay of Biscay, it sets mostly along the coast
to the eastw^ard ; and along the east coast of the bay, it sets to the
northward, parallel to the west coast of France."

At Madeira and the Canary Islands the surface Polar Stream
appears to have ceased ; but by our observations on the deep-sea tempe-

464 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

rature, a submarine stream still appears to exist. In lieu of the formei
we have the current familiarly known as the African Current, by its
causing so many distressing wrecks on that coast, ^and to which atten-
tion has often been drawn by the captivity and cruel slavery to which
their crews have been subjected.

As has been seen in the Narrative, but little surface current was
found on our voyage from Madeira to the Cape de Verdes ; but the sub-
marine stream was still found, as w^as shown by the low temperatures
of the deep-sea soundings. At, and in the neighbourhood of the latter
islands, and between them and Cape Verde on the African coast, a
strong surface current is felt. In endeavourincr to account for this
remarkable circumstance of the creation of a current, and its increased
velocity, of which every navigator must be aware when in the
neighbourhood of many islands, and the effects of which we have often
experienced in our long voyage, I shall now advert to the cause which
I think is quite sufficient to produce the effect; and that is the accumu-
lation of water caused by the obstructions that islands offer to the
onward flow of submarine streams ; thus raising the level of the ocean
in their vicinity, and consequently a tendency to run off, and thereby
cause a current where none was perceptible before, or an increased
velocity in that which was felt-
To this cause, then, I believe the currents around the Cape de
Verde Islands owe their origin, as well as all others prevailing near
islands and banks; and as corroborative proof of this I will mention the
fact that where no submarine polar stream exists, permanent currents
are not found. This will, I trust, be amply shown in the sequel

That remarkable current along the coast of Guinea, from which it
derives its name, passing Cape Palmas, and flowing into the Bight of
Benin, I attribute to the same cause. This current is in the immediate
vicinity of the Equatorial Stream, but runs in an opposite direction,
and for a long distance parallel to it. Of this current the following
remarks were made by Colonel Sabine, when he passed it in H. B. M.
ship Pheasant, Captain Clavering, in 1822,

"In the voyage between Cape Mount and Cape Three Points, in
April and May, 1822, the Pheasant's progress appears to have been
accelerated one hundred and eighty miles by the current called the
Guinea Current, which, in the season when the southwest winds pre-
vail on this part of the coast, runs with considerable velocity, in the
direction of the land, from Cape Palmas lo the eastern part of the
Gulf of Guinea. The breadth of this current, abreast of Cape Palmas,
varies with the season, and has been found as much as one hundred
and eighty miles ; but, in its subsequent course to the eastward, it

Il

ll

t.1

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 465

■m

enlarges to nearly three hundred, and occupies the whole space between
the land on one side, and the Equatorial Current, running in an oppo-
site direction, on the other. The velocity abreast of Cape Pahiias and
Cape Three Points, and in the vicinity of the land, was, in the month
of May, about two miles in the hour; and farther to the eastward,
where the Pheasant crossed its breadth, from Cape Formosa to St.
Thomas's, and w'here its velocity had been much diminished by the
dissipation of its waters, it was found to preserve a general rate of

rather less than a mile an hour, and a direction a few degrees to the
southward of east.

" The general temperature of the stream in the mid-channel, in the
Gulf of Guinea, in April and May, exceeds 84°, diminishing from
82° and 83^^ on its southern border, w^here it is in contact with the
colder water of the Equatorial Current ; and occasionally to between
79° and 81^° on its northern side, in the proximity of land.

** In the passage between the river Gaboon and Ascension, being a
distance of one thousand four hundred miles, the Pheasant was aided

r

by the current above three hundred miles in the direction of her
course.

** But the more important distinction, both in amount and in utility
in navigation, is between the waters of the Equatorial and Guinea
Currents. These exhibit the remarkable phenomenon of parallel
streams, in contact with each other, flowing with great velocity in
opposite directions, and having a difference of temperature amounting
to ten or twelve degrees. Their course continues to run parallel to
each other, and to the land, for above one thousand miles; and, ac-
cording as a vessel, required to proceed along the coast in either
direction, is placed in the one or in the other current, will her course
be aided from forty to fifty miles a day, or retarded to the same

amount.

99

This Guinea Current is lost in the Bight of Benin, near Prince's
Island; w^hich lies under the equator, in the longitude of 7^ E,, and
it is confined and obstructed by a southern polar stream, much in the
same manner as the Labrador is affected by the Gulf Stream on the
coast of the United States, and w^hich is supposed to be lost near Ca{«

Hatter as.

Beyond the Cape de Verdes, overfalls, rips, and a continual tendency
to change in the surface of the ocean, are experienced, as if two great
conflicting submarine currents were meeting at some depth beneath

the surface.

As we proceeded on our route from Porto Praya to Rio Janeiro,

the same appearances continued ; but we did not meet the Equatorial

VOL. V.

59

466 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

*

Stream until we had crossed the equator and reached the latitude of
3"^ S., and loneitude 25"^ W. It was then pursuing its course towards

Wind

Mex

This part of our passage afforded many interesting observations,
exhibiting extended rips and the boilings above spoken of, alternating
with smooth spaces, and variable currents, setting for a short time in
one direction and immediately afterwards in the opposite. All spoke
of a conflict of currents, and a forcible mindinf? of the waters beneath

the surface. From Porto Praya to Rio we were influenced by cur-
rents, two hundred and eighty miles N- 41° W.

To prove the prolongation of the Equatorial Current to the west-
ward, I shall refer again to other authority, although, as has been seen,
we experienced it ourselves on our voyage homewards. In the con-
tinuation of the voyage of the Pheasant, Colonel Sabine says:

" On the Brazilian side, from Pernambuco to Cape St. Roque, the
northerly current rapidly accelerated, until, in passing the Cape, it
may be considered that the Pheasant had entered the full stream of
that branch of the Equatorial Current which pursues its way along
the northern coast of Brazil and Guiana to the West Indies- Between
the noons of the 16th and 17th of July, she was set forty-four and a
half miles to the north, and forty-two and a half to the west; making
a general effect, in the twenty-four hours, of N. 44*^ W., sixty-two
miles: probably more northerly in the first part of the interval and
more westerly in the latter, than the general effect.

it

M

the current, the full strength of which she had quitted to go to that
place, and it was then found to be running with the astonishing rapidity
of ninety-nine miles in twenty-four hours. On the 10th of September,
at 10 A. M., while proceeding in the full strength of the current, exceed-
ing four knots an hour, a sudden and very great discoloration of the
water ahead was announced from the masthead : the ship being in 5"" 8'
N., and 50"* 28' W., (both by observation,) it was evident that the dis-
coloured water could be no other than the stream of^the Maranon,
pursuing its original impulse at no less than three hundred miles from
the mouth of the river, its waters not being yet mingled w^ith the blue
waters of the ocean, of greater specific gravity, on the surface of which
it had pursued its course. It was running about sixty-eight miles in
twenty-four hours."

No current of the velocity here mentioned has ever been experienced
to the eastward. To what is this sudden increase and rapid flow to be
imputed! or to what other cause it can be imputed but to a submarine

I

I

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 46?

Stream, flowing directly on the shoal coast of Brazil, and raising the
level of the ocean on those banks which it endeavours constantly to
restore by flowing oflT rapidly in the opposite direction?

Before proceeding into the Southern Atlantic, I will recapitulate our
results in the Northern.

Beginning at the equator, we find a great surface stream setting to
the w^estward across the ocean, which, passing along the coast of
Brazil, enters through the Windward Island passages the Caribbean
Sea, and thence into the Gulf of Mexico, whence the w^ater flows in
the Gulf Stream, which although at first narrow, soon spreads itself,
crosses the Atlantic, and expends its force in mid-ocean, or at times
upon the British Islands. This great stream, of moderate temperature
on the open ocean under the equator, becomes more heated on the
coast of Brazil, and opposite the coast of the United States retauis, both
in summer and winter, a temperature approaching to or often exceed-
ing 80°. In the mean time, another great stream sets southward,
j along the coasts of Labrador and Newfoundland; and dividing at the

Banks, a branch of this follows the line of soundings off Nova Scotia
and the United States, while another flows beneath the waters of the
Gulf Stream, passes southw'ards, and mingles with the waters of the
ocean, and aflfects the surface temperature where it comes in contact
with islands and banks. The uninterrupted flow of this vast polar

stream is along the coast of Portugal and Spain, and a small part of it
flow^s into the Bay of Biscay, caused by its striking upon Cape
Finisterre, and forms eventually the Rennell Current ; another part
flows into the Mediterranean, in consequence of the higher level of the
stream, w^hen compared with the waters of that sea. The main branch
now pursues its course on the surface, until Madeira and the Canaries
are reached in its course, beyond which it is no longer apparent^ But
below the surface, as shown by the low temperature of the deep-sea
soundings, a submarine stream pursues its way to the equator, where
the waters again commence the same round as before.

In the southern portion of the space included within the above limits,
is an expanse of w^ater which presents remarkable phenomena. This
is called by the name of the Sargasso Sea, and is noted for the quantity ^
of the aquatic plant, known as the gulf-weed (Fucus natans), that is
found in it. The general impression seems to be, that this space is
occupied by a sort of eddy, in which is deposited all the matter borne
by the different currents of the ocean, and that to this cause is due the
accumulation of the gulf-weed. It would, however, appear, that this
idea cannot be correct; for, in the first place, the weed appears fresher
there than when drifting: in the Gulf Stream and other currents, and is

468 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

therefore nearer the place of its growth; then again, there is no
evidence that any drift-wood, or other terrestrial product, is found in
the Sargasso Sea ; and in the third place, the currents that have already
been spoken of, appear rather to set from it, thus indicating that it has
a higher level than other parts of the ocean. That such difference
of level has a physical cause, there can be no reasonable question.

To connect the previous part of our subject with the currents of the
Southern Atlantic, we return to the Equatorial Stream. This was met
by us, as has been seen, in latitude 3° S. To avoid the difficulties that
this stream may cause, vessels outward-bound ought so to shape their
course as to avoid entering it too soon. Should they neglect this, they
may be set behind or to the westward of Cape St. Roque. For the
same reason, the further to the westward the equator is crossed on the
return voyage, the better. These directions have sometimes been
ascribed wholly to the winds, which are represented as scant and un-
favourable in places other than those which the current would render
favourable for crossing the line. This may be in some degree true,
for the winds which in these parts of the ocean are always light, may
be affected and drawn along with so rapid a stream. The polar origin
of this Equatorial Stream will be rendered more probable from the
relative temperatures of the parts of the ocean whence it flows, and of
those where no current prevails.

On the south coast of Brazil a current is found setting at first to the
southwest, and gradually changing its direction to south, until at the
mouth of the La Plata it ceases to be experienced, but appears then to
incline to the eastward, and spreads itself over the surface of the
Southern Atlantic. This is a phenomenon whose analogy to our Gulf
Stream cannot fail to be observed, and the resemblance becomes
stronger when it is seen that off the mouth of the La Plata it is met
by the Patagonian Current, a branch of the Great South Polar Stream,
that comes round Cape Horn, and sets along the coast of the country
whence it is named. This stream seems, hke that of Labrador, to
throw a branch (that has been mistaken for an eddy) between the
southwest current and the coast. Such at least would appear to be
^he case from the extent to which low temperatures prevail north-
w^ards, as was particularly noted off Cape Frio, and is exhibited in
the direction of the isothermal lines on the chart.

The main body of this, or perhaps another southern polar stream
that enters the Atlantic, is often encountered on the surface to the
northward and eastward of the Falkland Islands. At times, icebergs
are borne along by it to the northeast, and in the neighbourhood of
those islands the whole sea has been described as occasionally covered

CURRENTS AND WHALING, 469

with ice. This circumstance was remarked by Commodore Wads-
worth when commanding the Vincennes on a former cruise, and as I
learn from him, a French man-of-war was about the same time com-
pelled to go far to the eastward of the Falkland Islands in order to
avoid the ice, a necessity which he avoided by keeping close to the
Patagonian coast, which at such seasons is the safest route. That ice
is thus carried far north into the Atlantic, we had in our voyage a
sufficient proof; for every thing indicated our near approach to ice in
longitude 54'' 30' W., and in latitude as low as 39'' S.

The great space in the middle of the South Atlantic is affected by
no more than temporary and partial currents. In particular, near the
island of St. Helena, little or no current is ev^er experienced. This is
rendered certain by the fact that vessels, which, in striving to reach it,
have fallen to leeward, find no difficulty in beating up. The following

directions for reaching the island are found both in Horsburgh and
Purd

"Before the use of chronometers and lunar observations, navigators
were directed, in running for St. Helena, to fall into its parallel fifty or
sixty leagues eastward of it, to lie by in the night, and steer west in
the day till they made the land: this practice is no longer requisite, for
most of the East India ships, homeward-bound, steer now a direct
course from the Cape to St. Helena, and makq the island by day or
night ; as they generally know the longitude within a few miles of the
truth, there can be little danger of missing it, ahhough this is barely

V.

9f

possible, the body and leeward part of the island being frequently
enveloped in fog clouds, particularly in the night. Should a ship, in
such a case, fall a little to leeward, she will seldom find any difficulty
in working up to the anchorage, unless she sail inditTerently upon a
wind, for the current seldom runs strong to leeward near this island:
this, however, may happen when the trade blows strong, with squalls,
for a few days, w-hich is sometimes experienced about the full and
change of the moon: but this lee-current is generally of short con-
tinuance. In time of war, when any of the enemy's cruisers visit
St. Helena, they keep to the eastward and southeastward of it, at the
distance of fifteen, twenty,, and twenty-five leagues. Single ships,
which sail well, would avoid these cruisers, were they to make the
island bearing from north-northeast to east and southeast, and after-
wards make short tacks under the lee of it till they reach the an-
chorage. I have seen store-ships from England make the island,
bearing east-southeast, directly to windward of them, at the distance
of fifteen or eighteen leagues; they sailed indifferently, but reached
the anchorage the third day after making the island."

2P

470 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

The deep-sea temperature near St. Helena proved that the influence
even of a submarine polar current was not experienced there.

It would therefore appear that the South Atlantic is the seat of a
system of currents, analogous, but simpler in form, than those of the

■ ■ -p

North.

Off Cape Horn, we encountered the Great South Polar Stream,
whose strength has had such influence on the progress of vessels, and
been the cause of so much disaster to the early circumnavigators.
This stream spreads far to the eastward, and Cape Horn divides it
into two branches, one of which sets along the west coast of South
America, far to the northwards.

The main stream enters the Atlantic, and in the vicinity of Cape
Horn is almost as well known as the Gulf Stream on our own coasi.
Ii appears to be strongest in the months of August, September, and
October, the spring of that hemisphere, and weakest in April and May,

or the autumn. It continues its course to the northeast until it appears
lost in the South Atlantic, probably sinking beneath the warmer water
that has been flowing along the coast of Brazil. Our observations
made its greatest velocity seventy-two miles in twenty-four hours, in a
direction east-northeast, but its usual rate is about thirty miles in the
same time.

One remarkable feature of the water in the neighbourhood of Cape
Horn is its very low temperature at great depths. We found it, as
has been stated in Chapter V., as low as 28*^, at the depth of four hun-
dred fathoms ; and although this great depression of temperature was
not exactly verified by other observations, yet those made in the
vicinity were sufficiently low to render this remarkable fact probable.

That the direction of a great body of water to the northward and
eastv?ard, is not confined to the vicinity of Cape Horn, we have one
proof in the drift of the icebergs, even beyond the line at which a cur-
rent is found at the surface, and which must therefore be carried by
submarine streams; and another in the observations made by the late
French expedition under D'Urville, who found a current setting east-
northeast, along the icy barrier to the south of Powell's Group.

It has been stated that the northeast Polar Stream is divided into
two branches at Cape Horn. The Chili branch of the stream at first
retains the northeast direction, and sets upon the coast of that country,
but as it advances it takes a direction more towards the north. This
stream is not superficial merely, but prevails to a great depth, or is
submarine. This fact is conclusively shown by an observation of
Captain Du Petit Thouars in the French frigate Venus in 1837; he
found in making a deep-sea sounding in this stream during a calm,

CURRENTS AND WHALING, 47]

I

g vertical during the whole three

that the observation continued. He justly ascribes this occurrence to
the motion of the whole body of water to the north with an equal
velocity. The set towards the coast in the more southern portion of
the stream is shown by the frequent wrecks on the coast of Chili, and
the difficulty which vessels leaving Valparaiso to double Cape Horn
experience in obtaining a sufficient offing. This stream, like the

others we have spoken of, varies in breadth and strength at different
seasons.

We experienced the set of this stream in a decided manner ; for the
amount of our drifting current between Cape Horn and Valparaiso,
was two hundred and fifty-four miles, in a direction north-by-east.

The change in direction from northeast to north takes place about
the latitude 37^ S., or in the neighbourhood of the island of Mocha.

In our passage from Valparaiso to Callao, we found the waters of
a low temperature ; but the general effect of current, amounting to one
hundred and seventy-one miles, was in a direction nearly due w^est
The surface Polar Stream therefore seems to be deflected by the bight
formed by the coasts of Chili and Peru, but after passing this it again
receives its direction to the north.

Off Callao this stream is confined to narrow limits, but is still readily
distinguishable by its low temperature, and the drift of the ship to the
northwest; the breadth was estimated at one hundred miles.

The Gallipagos Islands oppose an obstacle to this stream, and pheno-
mena of currents occur in this neighbourhood, and particularly around
the more southern ones, that are obviously due to this cause, and
which the isothermal lines on the chart clearly indicate. By these
islands also the stream is divided into two branches, one of which is
felt as far to the north as Panama; the other is thrown westward, and
merges in the Equatorial Stream of the Pacific.

The temperature of the water around these islands is low, as might
be expected from the Polar Current reaching them ; and thus may be
explained the remarkable fact, that although under the equator, no
coral is found there, because the water is below the temperature at
which, according to Mr. Dana, the animals that form the coral reefs
can live, or at least become numerous; this will hold good with all the

coasts washed by polar currents.

Between Callao and Tahiti, after crossing the Polar Stream, we
experienced little current. Among the islands of the Paumotu Group
none whatever was perceived, and our whole drift w^as no more than
seventeen miles in a direction N. 57^ E.

On approaching these islands, the change in the surface temperature

472 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

T

was of the same description as we afterwards experienced in other
similar cases, namely, an increase. We thus have a fact to aid in
proving that the opinion generally entertained, that on coming into
soundings, or near islands, the temperature always falls, is not correct.
T am of opinion that this diminution only takes place where polar
streams prevail, and particularly if they be submarine. The obstruc-
tion throws their waters upward, and mingles them with those at the
surface, which causes the low temperature. It would therefore seem
as if the existence of polar currents may be shown by a fall of tem-
perature on coming within soundings, and that when this does not
occur, it may be assumed as certain, that no polar current prevails in
the neighbourhood.

Between the Society Islands and the Samoan Group, it may be said
that there are no currents. The distance is about two thousand miles,
and our passage occupied fourteen days, during which time the whole
amount of drift was forty-three miles in a direction N. 9^ W.

On approaching the latter group, the temperature of the water rose
a few degrees, indicating, according to the view I have already taken,
that there was no submarine cold current.

Around the Samoan Group a current appeared to revolve; for on the
southern side it set continually eastward, while on the northern side it
set to the west. This current is weakest near the shores, and is not
fully developed until at some distance from the islands. This pheno-
menon has little connexion with the tides, and does not appear to be
connected with the general system ; at least I have been unable to
account for it on general principles. A knowledge of its existence is
however of importance to the navigator, as advantage may be taken
of the easterly direction of that part to the south of the islands, in beat-
ing to windward.

On leaving the Samoan Islands for Sydney, and passing to the west-
ward of the Feejee Group, a current was found setting to the southwest,
and this prevails beyond the latter islands.

As we approached Lord Howe's Island and Bell's Pyramid, we met
a current setting north, in which direction our drift on the passage to
Sydney was one hundred and twenty miles. In the neighbourhood of
the first-named island, the temperature of the water fell to 66°. After
this, however, and before making the coast of New South Wales, the
temperature of the water rose to 73^, and we experienced the effects of
a stream that sets to the southward parallel to the coast of New
Holland. This current, like the Gulf Stream, is variable in breadth
and strength, and at certain seasons of the year runs with great
rapidity. The occurrence of this stream renders it advisable that

f

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 473

vessels bound to Sydney, should make their land fall to the northward
of the harbour. There is no difficulty in tracing the connexion of this
stream with that which we found setting to the southwest, as before
noted, near the Feejee Group, which being thrown towards the coast
of New South Wales by the South Polar Stream, that meets its course
obliquely, it also receives an accession of strength from the waters that
jflow to the southwest on the west side of New Guinea: ample proof of
the existence of such a current is to be found in the difficulty of passing
to the eastward of the Barrier Reefs. This stream is analogous to our
Gulf Stream, ahhough much less remarkable, and is at times found to
extend to the south of Van Diemen's Land, the distance to which it
prevails depending on the strength of the polar current which opposes
it. Thus, the French frigate Venus met this stream to the south and
east of Van Diemen's Land, in the month of January, 1 839, and was
thirty-six hours in passing through it. It more frequently turns into
Bass's Straits, after which it is lost in the sea to the west of Van
Diemen's Land, or mingles with the Polar Current,

We experienced the effects of this stream as w-ell after we left
Sydney as before our arrival there, but our course speedily led us
beyond its influence. The current which afterw^ards affected us on our
way south, set to the northward and eastward, and was found at its
greatest strength near Macquarie's Island, where its set amounted to
thirty miles in twenty-four hours. As we approached the Antarctic
Continent w^e gradually ceased to feel its effects, until upon the icy
barrier little or no current could be perceived along its whole extent.
Our means of observation partially failed us here, as has been mentioned
in the Narrative. It would appear, however, from a comparison of the
position of the icy barrier as seen by us, with that laid down by
Captain Ross, after the lapse of a year, that there may be a slight drift
to the northwest, towards which direction the barrier appears to have

shifted in the interval.

On the return of the Vincennes to the north, the northeasterly cur-
rent was again experienced, and particularly between the latitudes of
50^ and 60° S- The Porpoise, whose track was to the eastward of
that of the Vincennes, found its direction more to the eastward than
W'e did. As we entered lower latitudes, we found it veering more and

more, until finally it became due north.

Pursuing its course in the last-named direction, it strikes the southern
point of New Zealand, and forms currents on each side of that country,
which, however, are not constant. That branch which flows on the
western side appears to be the strongest, and is felt as far to the north

VOL. V.

2P2 60

474 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

as Cook's Straits- The current which flows on the eastern side, forms

an eddy to the north of the islands.

We must here note, althouj];h we did not ourselves enter it, the

polar stream which sets upon Cape Leeuwin, the southwestern pro-
montory of New Holland. According to Captain Flinders, whose
statement is corroborated by French authorities, this stream appears
to be divided at the cape ; and both of these branches were found to
set with great velocitj for a short distance to the north and east of
that cape. The branch that sets eastward along the southern coast of
Kew Holland, has at first a velocity of as much as twenty-seven miles
in twenty-four hours ; the other branch, setting north, has a velocity
of from twenty to thirty miles. All authorities agree that both of these
velocities are rapidly diminished, and at times the eastern branch is
felt feebly beyond Bass's Straits. The northern branch follows a line
parallel to the coast, and on reaching the north coast of New Holland,
is deflected again, and flows oflT to the northward and westward.

On our return to Sydney from the Antarctic cruise, we again
encountered the warm stream ; and being now aware of its existence,
I was able so to shape the course of the vessel as to pass out and into
it again as we ran up the coast. The temperature of its waters was
found to be 75''.

lu crossing from Sydney to New Zealand, on leaving the coast the
same current was found to exist, both by the temperature and the drift

r

of the ship. We also passed over what is called by the whalers, the
Middle Ground, and while we were in it no current was found to pre-
vail, a circumstance to w^hich I shall have occasion to refer hereafter.
Between New Zealand and Tonga the currents w^efe variable, and
their general effect was a drift of one hundred and eight miles in a
direction S. 88^ W. On this route we passed the Kermadec Islands,

and through the latitudes where the southern polar streams seem to
be lost.

On leaving Tonga, we soon met with the current existing among
the Feejee Islands. This current sets through the eastern range of
these islands to the northeast, as observed by the Porpoise during her
survey of that portion of the group, and as shown by the manner in
which the casks of the whale-ship Shylock, wrecked on Turtle Island,
were carried to Fulanga, where they were picked up. We also expe-
rienced the same current in the drift it caused on the first ni^zht of our
arrival off these islands. A strong current also sets to the eastward,
on the southern side of the Feejee Group. I had here to regret the
loss of our deep-sea sounding apparatus, the importance of which in

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 475

detecting the presence of cold submarine streams previous experience
had satisfied me. I felt, however, convinced that the Feejee currents
arose from them as a cause, and my views were corroborated by the
fact that the Peacock on her voyage from Sydney to Tongalaboo had
been affected by northerly currents.

I have mentioned cases in which the Polynesian Islands were occa-
sionally affected by the remarkable phenomenon of a sudden rush of
waters. I am inclined to ascribe this phenomenon to the action of a
polar current encountering obstructions at the several groups, for I
know of no other cause so likely to produce such results ; and it will
have been seen that the sides of the islands that were most affected,
were those that w^ould have been exposed to the full violence of a
stream setting from a higher to a low latitude, while the action on the
opposite side was either much diminished or wholly insensible.

After leaving the Feejee Group, we did not experience any current
until we reached the latitude of 8^ S., and there only In separate
impulses. We then experienced currents for three or four days,
whose united effects amounted to no more than twenty or thirty miles,
in a direction about south by west. In passing the Phccnix Group we
experienced a variable current; and little seems to exist there at the
season when we passed it; but in the following January, when the
Peacock was at this group, a current was found setting to the west-
ward, which was lost on passing a degree or two to the south. In
this voyage of the Peacock, a space in the ocean w^as traversed re-
markable for its elevated temperature, which was as high as 89^.
The waters of this space, therefore, do not enter into the general cir-
culation. This position \\\\\ be seen upon the map, marked in deep
red, and may be compared with the similar nuclei in the North
Atlantic and near the Cape de Verdes.

On our route to the northward we crossed a stream setting to the
westward, which extends as far west as the Kingsmill Group, between
the latitudes of 2° S. and 3° N., after leaving w^hich we encountered
another, setting with equal velocity to the east, between the latitudes
of 4^ and 9^ N. This last tropical counter-current was traced by us
between the same parallels, nearly across the Pacific, from the longi-
tude of 170° E., to the longitude of 138^ W. We had no opportunity
of ascertaining ourselves whether it exists to the westward of the
Mulgrave Islands, but Horsburgh and several other authorities mention
the prevalence of an easterly current as far to the west as the Sea of
Celebes, and particularly in the latitude of*4^ N. After passing the
parallel of 10° N., we began to feel the effects of the current that is
ascribed to the influence of the trade-winds, and this continued without

476 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

much diminution in its strength, until we lost the trades in latitude
19° N. The drift by this current was two hundred and seventy-one
miles, in a direction S- 7P W.

At the Sandwich Islands, I am not disposed to think, from any
observations I had an opportunity of making, that there are any
regular currents, or any set of the waters, except what is caused by
the W'inds. There is in fact rarely any difficulty in beating to wind-
ward ; the time of passing between the islands is about the same at all
seasons of the year ; and I found none in beating up to my port in a
reasonable time, after falling to leeward of it. Their position is assimi-
lated to St. Helena. The temperature of the waters around these islands
is about the same as that which prevails in the ocean in the neighbour-
hood, a fact which, as I have already stated, I consider to be a proof

that no polar current reaches them.

Our passage from the Hawaiian Group to the Northwest Coast,
gave interesting results in relation to the currents. They were ir-
regular until w^e reached the latitude of 37° N. ; after which we were
strongly affected by a southeast current, whose influence continued
until we reached the coast of Oregon. At this time it ran at the rate
of fifty miles in tw^enty-four hours; but when the Peacock traversed
this same space, ninety days later, the velocity had not only dimi-
nished, but what current was found, was nearly in an opposite
direction. In relation to the extent of this southeast current in the
months of March and April, I have no precise information, nor can
I supply it from others, since those who had previously visited this
part of the ocean had not paid sufficient attention to this subject to
furnish any precise data. All however agree in the fact, that they were
affected by a southeast current after reaching the longitude of 130^ W.,
and the latitude of 35*^ N.

Within the space embraced by the meridians of 145^ and 160^ W.,
and the parallels of 28° and 35*^ N., the currents appear to lose them-
selves ; and this is therefore to be considered as a nucleus.

This southeast current may be either a return of an equatorial cur-
rent, or a direct polar stream. Its temperature would rather lead to
the latter conclusion ; yet there is an equatorial stream on the oppo-
site shores of the Pacific, flowing to the northeast: this is well known
to exist on the coast of Japan, extending to the Aleutian Islands, and
passing northwards along the coast of Kamtschatka. Of its existence
off the latter country we have many satisfactory proofs, and more
particularly those of Captain Beechey on the temperature of the sea
which he found in latitude 67"^ N., near the Icy Cape- The latter
fact leaves no doubt that the influence of a current coming from a

CURRENTS AND WHALING, 477

tropical climate must extend thus far, which is the most remote point
at which any such stream has been positively known to exist. It
may, however, be connected with the strong easterly current that is
constantly setting through the Icy Sea, as has been noted in all
the voyages in search of a Northwest Passage. At the Aleutian
Islands the stream appears to divide, and a branch continues on, at
first in a northeast direction, but, gradually changing its course, takes
a sweep along the line of the coast of America, and merges in the
northeast stream of which we have spoken above. This stream,
which passes the Aleutian Islands, is doubtless an equatorial one; its
low temperature maybe accounted for by the fact of its being mixed
with w^ater coming through Behring*s Straits by an under-current
from a polar region; this latter being obstructed by the Aleutian
Islands, would cause it to be mixed with the surface water, and be
carried therewith to the coast of America. It is clear, from the
narrow space at Behring's Straits, that no great quantity of water
can pass as a submarine current from the Arctic Ocean, to produce
any remote effects.

r

On our return, in passing from the Hawaiian Group to the Ma-
rianes, we experienced a slight current setting to the westward, which
may be ascribed to the trade-winds. After passing the latter islands,
we found a current setting to the northward, being in all probability

E

connected with the stream that flow^s along the coast of Japan. This
direction prevailed until we reached the straits by which w^e entered
the China seas.

I need not speak of the currents in the China seas, as they are well
known to be influenced by the monsoons, and, therefore, far from
constant. Now, as the southwest monsoon has a tendency to increase
the Equatorial Stream, and give the waters a direction to the north-
east, we may find in this remote region the cause by which the
velocity of the southeast current on the northwest coast of America
is accelerated at the very season in which such influence might be
expected to reach those shores.

On our track from the China seas towards the Cape of Good Hope,
we met with but little current until we approached the east coast of
Africa. We had, during this pari of our voyage, an opportunity of
trying the deep-sea temperature daily, having received several self-
registering thermometers, which I had sent for to replace those we had
lost. These observations confirmed the impression that thf§ portion of
the ocean is but little liable to submarine streams.

On approaching the east coast of Africa, we found ourselves at first
influenced, as mentioned in the Narrative, by the Polar Stream, then.

478 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

as we neared the coast, by the equatorial stream that sets down the
Mozambique Channel. This stream is usually confined to narrow
limits, but at some seasons becomes strong enough to throw its waters
in a southwest direction beyond the Aguillas Bank. There is little
doubt that this equatorial stream is superficial, overlying the Southern
Polar Stream, a portion of which latter, touching the Aguillas Bank,
is forced up by that obstruction to the surface. This is evident by its
reducing the temperature of the waters on soundings at the Cape
to 62°. This Polar Stream is divided by the Cape: the eastern part
sets along the east coast of Africa as a submarine stream, and on
reaching the island of Madagascar is found to flow north, along its
west shores. The other and larger portion is deflected, and flows to
the northward, along the west coast, and finally forms the Great Equa-
torial Stream of the South Atlantic.

We have seen that a great equatorial stream, flowing westward, is
found both in the Atlantic and Pacific. One also, according to Hors-
burgh, exists in the Indian Ocean, in the latitude of 3^^ N., which may
be traced to that polar stream which we have seen to flow along the
western coast of New Holland, and which must of necessity sweep the
coast of Java and Sumatra* This stream has in the Indian Ocean
been observed to flow at the rate of fifty-six miles in twenty-four hours.
Upon the same authority, it appears that on the Malabar coast a
current sets constantly to the southward.

About the Chagos Archipelago, the currents are periodic, setting
west and northwest during the prevalence of the southeast monsoon,
and southeast in the months of December and January, when the wind
blows from the northwest. About the Comorro Islands, on the con-
trary, the prevailing current is from the westward ; and off the north
end of Madagascar, likewise, a westerly current prevails throughout
the year. On this account the ports of that island are difficult to make,
and ought to be approached from the w^indward, as it would be diflicult
to beat up to them against the current.

In the Mozambique Channel, a current sets northward, along the
western shore of Madagascar ; while on the coast of Africa opposite,
the water sets almost continually to the south. But on the same coast
to the north of the line, a weak current is found settinor towards the

o

Persian Gulf, and thus causing the current we have stated to run
southwards on the Malabar coast.

The Equatorial Stream of the South Atlantic may be cited as fur-
nishing a good instance of the effect that currents may produce on
climate. It always includes the island of Anno Bon within its influ-
ence, while St. Thomas, in longitude 6^^ E., and immediately under

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 479

the equator, is only affected by it at times, and Prince's Island is never
reached by it. The nrianner in which their climates are influenced by
this circumstance is thus described by Colonel Sabine:

"' The occasional advance of the cold vi-ater of the Equatorial Cur-
rent to the island of St. Thomas, may assist in explaining an apparent
peculiarity in the climate of that island, when compared with the
climate of the coast of Western Africa generally. At all the British
possessions, from the Gambia, in latitude 13° N., to the forts on the
Gold Coast, the months of June, July, and August, are accounted
unhealthy; whilst at St. Thomas's, on the contrary, they are the most
healthy in the year to Europeans, although they are not so to the
negroes, w^ho suffer much from colds and rheumatisms during their
continuance. It has been shown that the water of the Equatorial
Current is from ten to twelve degrees colder than that of the Gulf of
Guinea, and that its northern border, which at other seasons passes
the meridian of St. Thomas at a distance of from one hundred and
twenty to one hundred and eighty miles south of its southern extremity,
was found in June in contact, or very nearly so, with the island itself;
and it is not improbable, from a consideration of the causes which
occasion its advance towards the equator when the sun is in its
northern signs, that in July it may extend so far as even to include the
whole island of St. Thomas within its limits.

"The temperature of the air is known to be immediately dependent
on that of the surface water of the sea, and to be influenced nearly to
the full extent of any alteration that may take place therein. In cross-
ing the Bight of Biafra, from Cape Formosa to St. Thomas's, the air,
over the surface of the Guinea Current, observed in the shade and to
windward, at sunrise, noon, and sunset, averaged 8I|^, the extremes
being 79° and 83^°; whilst in the passage from the river Gaboon to
Ascension, over the Equatorial Current, the air averaged only 74°, the
extremes being from 73^° to 74^°, a part of the passage being, more-
over, on the very edge of the two currents, and within sight of St.
Thomas's. The vicinity of the Equatorial Current, therefore, when the
sun is in the northern signs, cannot fail materially to influence the
temperature of the island, (particularly as the wind is always from the
south,) and thus to affect its climate. Situated on the equator, St.
Thomas's has naturally two cold seasons, or winters, in the year, the
sun being equally distant in June and in December; but in June, July,
and August, is superadded the influence of the surface water of the
ocean, several degrees colder than in November, December, and
January ; rendering the months of June, July, and August, pre-eminently
the winter of St. Thomas's; in which the natives complain of colds

480 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

and rheumatism, and the health of Europeans is less affected than at
other seasons, because the climate is then less dissimilar than usual to

their own.

"The comparative unhealthiness of Prince's Island to that of St.
Thomas's, and of both to Anno Bon, as the residence of Europeans,
has been frequently and particularly noticed by Portuguese authori-
ties, and is universally recognised at Prince's Island and at St.
Thomas's. It may be a sufficient explanation to remark, that Anno
Bon is always surrounded by the Equatorial Current ; Prince's always
by the Guinea Current; and that the position of St. Thomas's is
intermediate, and its climate is occasionally influenced by both. In
tropical climates, a very few degrees of temperature constitute an
^essential difference in the feelings of the natives, and in the health of
Europeans."

In taking a general view of the facts which have been stated, it
will appear that, towards the western sides of the North and South
Atlantic, of the North and South Pacific, and of the Indian Oceans,
streams of heated water, making their way from low to high latitudes,
prevail. These in the two northern oceans become easterly, setting
towards the opposite continents, causing, beyond all question, the
comparatively equable and elevated temperature that is found on their
western coasts, and which so peculiarly distinguishes the climate of
the British Islands. To keep up the equilibrium of the ocean, the
body of water thus thrown from the equator towards the poles, must,
after being cooled and rendered more dense in the higher latitudes,
return tow^ards the equator ; and the mode in which at first sight it
might be expected to do this is by currents wholly submarine. But
the influence of the returning water is felt at the surface also, forming
the surface polar streams, of which we have spoken. Those w^hich
come from the great body of ocean in the southern hemisphere are
directed upon the projecting points of the continents and great islands.
Cape Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, Cape Leeuwin, &c., where as a
general rule, they are divided into two branches. The easternmost of
these meet the equatorial streams, of which I have spoken, whose
direction they change, modifying or checking their progress towards
the poles, and forming what I have termed the nuclei. In the North
Atlantic, we have seen that a part at least of the North Polar Stream
divides upon Cape Finisterre, passes into the Bay of Biscay, assuming
the form of a surface current allied to an eddy, called the Rennell
Current, while its main branch pursues its southern course along the
coast of Portugal, and finally again becomes wholly submarine.

On the western side of the North Atlantic, in the higher latitudes,

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 43]

flows the Labrador Stream, a current so powerful that we can hardly
ascribe its origin to the return of the tropical waters of the Atlantic
alone; and this, it is thought, may be a portion of the Equatorial
Stream of the Pacific, which, after entering the Icy Sea at Behring's
Straits, and forming the current which sets eastw^ard, on the northern
shores of America, enters the Atlantic, through the many passages of
that labyrinth of islands and icebergs, and finally returns, to be again
heated in the tropical climates of the Atlantic.

There is unquestionably a greater body of colder water lying at
depths in the equatorial regions of the Atlantic than can be accounted
for in any other manner than by submarine streams. Separate obser-
vations, made in the Vincennes, Porpoise, and Oregon, at different
places during the return voyage, exhibited the same low temperature
at a depth of one hundred fathoms, wathin a zone lying between the
parallel of 3^ S. and 3^ N- The observed temperatures in the several
vessels differed only a degree from each other, and they agreed nearly
in the breadth of the first zone- I feel satisfied that the one first met
with was connected with the cold submarine stream our deep-sea
temperatures showed when near the Cape de Verdes, on the outward
voyage. As we crossed the South Atlantic without noticing any
phenomena of this kind, it may be safely asserted that this body of
cold water therefore comes from the north.

But to return to the western branches of the polar streams that set
upon the tw^o great promontories of the old and new continents : these
are deflected by the land, and in their new direction flow onwards to
the equator, and are merged in the western equatorial streams, which,
directed upon the eastern coasts of the opposite continents, and warmed
by exposure to the sun, become the heated streams with which our
recapitulation commenced.

The number of recorded facts is as yet too few to furnish any thing
like sufficient satisfactory data inductive to any theory; there can be
no doubt, how^ever, that the great and sufficient cause is the unequal
distribution of heat over the earth's surface. How the streams, cur-
rents, and counter-currents are affected by the continents, is w^ithin
the reach of legitimate inquiry; but how the character and form of
the bed of the ocean may influence them, seems at present beyond

investigation.

The best possible information on the currents is of great importance
to the navigator; next to the w^inds they claim his attention; the winds
in their turn are very much influenced by the former.

The great and at times perplexing variations of currents have been
felt by all navigators : these it will be at once seen may be attributed

VOL. V. 2 Q 61

482 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

I

to the anomalous periodic changes that are known to occur, placing
all calculations at nought.

The trades, the monsoons, and other steady or periodic winds, as
well as the variable winds of the temperate zones, are either caused
or much influenced by the manner in which temperature is distributed
over the surface of the ocean, by the polar and equatorial streams. It
is therefore proper that, as immediately connected with this subject,
we should mention the spaces which_lie between the zones of the trade
and westerly winds, and which are usually the seat of light variable
winds and calms. The existence of such a zone in the North Atlantic
has long been known, and we have assured ourselves of the existence
of similar zones in the other oceans, though not to so great an extent.
They lie on each side of the parallels of 30^ in both hemispheres, and
are about three hundred miles in breadth. Leaving; out of account the
effect of the great currents of the atmosphere, we find this space to
be a sort of eddy, in which the polar and equatorial flow of waters
neutralize each other, and where therefore, all the floating matter that
is brought by both must accumulate. I shall have occasion to refer to
this view of these zones hereafter, as connected with the subject of
whaling.

If, however, the view I have taken of the flow of the waters of the
ocean and their results be correct, which the facts we observed and
those I have quoted from the authority of others, scarcely leave a
doubt of, we may see the admirable provisions of nature by which
the Creator has regulated the fluid mass of the ocean, in its endless
gyrations seeking to attain a state of equilibrium which it never
reaches, at the same time and by the same course distributing the
excess of the tropical heats throughout the whole surface of the globe,
and bringing towards the equator the icy masses which would other-
wise accumulate in the frozen zones.

But, putting aside the partial observations that have been detailed in
the preceding pages, relative to the direction and extent of thq great
streams and currents of the ocean, whether surface or submarine, the
habits of the spermaceti whale alone would furnish strong circum-
stantial evidence that such currents do exist, and that they are variable
in their strength, and even in direction, according to the season.

It is well known to whalers that the favourite and appropriate food
of the sperm whale is a gelatinous medusa ; which, however, has not
as yet received from naturalists much attention. It may, however, be
advanced as certain that this molluscous animal most abounds in the
higher latitudes of both hemispheres, which would therefore seem to
be the places in which it is produced, and to which its habits are best

I

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 433

adapted.* During our cruise in the higher southern latitudes, we saw
vast numbers of these medusae around and near the icebergs. The
quantity was such as to prove conclusively, that it was in the waters
of the temperature caused by the vicinity of these masses of ice, that
they delight to dwelL Whales were also in abundance, and although
principally of the fin-back species, sperm whales were not entirely
wanting.

As regards the medusa, its powers of locomotion are feeble, and
confined chiefly to the purpose of rising and sinking at pleasure. If
polar currents exist, it must therefore be swept by them from the place
of its nativity, and in its passage to lower latitudes, will by its loco-
motive power seek strata in the water of the low temperature to
which its constitution is best adapted. My attention was drawn to
the habits of the whales here in particular, from the novel manner
they exhibited of feeding near the surface, instead of diving lower
down, as they are usually seen to do in lower latitudes : they were
constantly in sight, instead of being only seen at intervals.

It will be readily admitted that the medusa, like other animals, has
its appropriate seasons of procreation, and it will appear probable that
the season at which we saw them in such numbers was that in which
they are brought forth most abundantly. So also, however low the
temperature of the water in which they delight, there is little proba-
bility that their increase goes forward when the regions in which we
met them are locked up in ice, and the genial light and w^armth of the
sun is denied them.

The food of the sperm whale will therefore be borne off to lower
latitudes by the polar streams in greater abundance at one season than
another, and this former season corresponds with that in which these
currents have their greatest force. The sperm whale, it must be ex-
pected, will leave the higher latitudes and follow the currents which

transport his food.

In conformity with this view, we find the habits of the sperm whale

migratory. The polar currents, as has been seen, disappear from the

surface in many cases, but do not cease to flow ; and even when felt

both at the surface and below, they will in approaching lower latitudes

have their higher temperatures near the surface. The medusa will

therefore descend in either case to greater depths, and the whale must

dive in quest of the food which in higher latitudes he could find at the

surface. We have seen in what a decided manner the polar currents

food

hoe been seen by our own observations at the south, and those of Scoresby at the north,

484 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

become or continue superficial at the southern promontories of the
continents. A similar cause, operating to a less extent, raises them, if
submarine, when they are interrupted or impeded by islands, and
spreads water of low temperature over the surface. Here then, at the
proper season, the food of the whale wull be not only more accessible,
but more abundant within a given space, in consequence of the check
the velocity of the stream must experience.

So also in the zones of cahns we have seen that the matter borne by
the polar currents in all probability finds a resting-place; and here
also, at fit seasons, the food of the w^hale must be abundant. Points
possessing either of these characteristics I have distinguished, as before
stated, by the name of nuclei.

However satisfactory this theory may be in explaining the causes
of the migratory habits of the sperm whale, it is obvious that we do
not know enough of the natural history of his favourite food, nor of
the rate and course of all the submarine polar currents, to enable us to
predict with certainty the seasons at w^hich he will be found in parti-
cular parts of the ocean. This can be learned by observation alone,
and long experience has taught those who are skilful in the whale-
fishery the position of the favourite haunts of their prey, and the times

at which they are most likely to be met with there. Comparing these
points and the nuclei of the currents, as observed and explained in the
preceding pages, the coincidence will strike every one who will exa-
mine the subject; and when all the facts necessary to illustrate this
subject shall be ascertained, theory may serve in some degree to
shorten the apprenticeship which is now necessary in order to acquire

the requisite know^ledge of the places and seasons wherein to meet the

game in this adventurous employment; the object therefore of the

residue of this chapter will be devoted to whaling, and to point out

the results which our own observations, with the information derived
from others, has afforded.

The w^haling interest, taking into consideration the extent to which
it has been carried by our countrymen, may be almost claimed as
peculiarly American- There are few employments in which the
enterprise and industry of our countrymen are so well developed as
in this, or in which so much hardihood or so many resources are
required to insure success.

Our whaling fJeet may be said at this very day to whiten the Pacific
Ocean with its canvass, and the proceeds of this fishery give comfort
and happiness to many thousands of our citizens. The ramifications
of the business extend to all branches of trade, are spread through
the whole Union, and its direct or secondary influence w^ould seem to

I

f

i

;

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 435

recommend it to the especial protection and fostering care of the
government-

As it was among the first objects of the Exploring Expedition to
render the dangerous path of these enterprising mariners more safe, 1
trust it will have been perceived, that throughout the operations of the
squadron, this interest has never been lost sight of. In fact, it has
always been my constant study to endeavour to accomplish whatever
could tend to its benefit. In the course of the various and devious
voyages we have made, the greatest attention has been paid to the
winds and currents ; and from my investigations, I hope to be able to
point out the most feasible routes by which to gain the proper cruising-
grounds, and to define their localities more clearly than has hitherto
been done.

Among other duties, we were called upon to administer chastisement
for the murder of portions of the crews of whale-ships, as well as of
persons belonging to the squadron, which was done not as a vindictive
retaliation, but to convince the natives that their attacks on vessels
bearing our flag cannot pass with impunity.

In all places we have endeavoured to foster a good feeling, to esta-
blish a system of fair dealing, to win confidence, and to act justly.
The knowledge of the native character which I have obtained, and
have recorded in the preceding pages, will, I hope, be of use in pre-
serving a good understanding betw^een them and those who follow us ;
rules and regulations w^ere agreed upon in many places with the
chiefs, for the purpose of rendering the property and lives of our
citizens more secure in their visits to the ports of the islands; and
it is to be hoped that they will be strictly observed on the part of

American vessels.

The Expedition has done much by its surveys and explorations to
make the islands, their anchorages and harbours, better know^n; and

very many doubtful shoals, reefs, and islands have been carefully

r

searched for. Particular information respecting these dangers will be
embraced in the Hydrographical Memoir.

Our whaling fleet now counts six hundred and seventy-five vessels,
the greater part of which are ships of four hundred tons burden,
amounting in all to two hundred thousand tons. The majority of
these vessels cruise in the Pacific Ocean. Between fifteen and sixteen
thousand of our countrymen are required to man these vessels, half of
whom go to sea for the first time as " green hands," and return after a
voyage of fatigue and hazard, transformed into sailors.

The value of the whale fleet is estimated at not less than twenty-
five millions of dollars, yielding an annual return of five millions, ex-

2Q2

486 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

traded from the ocean by hard toil, exposure, and danger. The
estimated quantity of oil imported into the United States is about four
hundred thousand barrels, nearly one-half of which is sperm oil.

It might be said that the employment of so large a number of
persons is not constant, because many of the vessels are always to be
found in our harbours. But it is well known that the same number
of hands are employed in port as at sea ; and I believe, from my own
observation, and the statements of others, that so far from falling

below the estimate, the number of persons actually engaged in this
business would greatly exceed the registry of the crews, as our ships

are constantly in the practice of taking on board extra hands from

I

the Azores, Cape de Verdes, and South Sea islands, which would
probably amount to an eighth or a tenth more.

The number of those on shore to whom this branch of business
gives employment, will readily be admitted to be twice as great as
that of the crews. When we add to this profitable occupation of so
many persons, the value of the domestic products consumed by them,
and the benefit that is thus conferred upon both our agricultural and
manufacturing interests, the importance of this branch of business will
appear greatly enhanced.

By a large majority of persons, it is believed that the whale-fishery
is a mere lottery, in which success is more owing to good luck than
to good management. Those, however, who entertain such an opinion,
are in error. There is, perhaps, no employment on the ocean wherein
a sound judgment is more necessary, and no business where success
depends more upon the experience, enterprise, and industry, of the
commander, than in that of whaling.

Voyages may indeed be made by incompetent persons, and by
fortuitous circumstances success may be obtained ; but those who
are well acquainted with the business, will almost certainly " fill up" in
the time allotted to a voyage, and frequently in a much shorter period.

There are two kinds of whales that are principally the object of
search by our whalers. These are the sperm whale (Macrocephalus)
and the right whale (Mysticetus). These two animals differ exceed-

^^S^y^ ^^^^ ^^ th^5^ f*^^"^ ^"d in their habits. The first is furnished
with teeth, the last with a collection of laminse; they are therefore
adapted to different kinds of food : the former feeds on the large
medusae of the ocean, termed by the whalers squid; the other on
small Crustacea, and small fish. Their feeding-grounds are seldom
in the same places; for, while the latter frequents the coasts and bays,
the former is seldom found except in the deep sea, and generally far
from the land.

CURRENTSANDWHALING. 48?

Whales of the two different kinds are easily distinguished at a
distance by the experienced, from the volume of their spout; its direc-
tion and elevation; the number of times it is repeated; the manner in
which they dive; the length of time they disappear; and the body they
expose to view,

I shall now proceed to point out the cruising-grounds, and explain
the operations of the whalers, directing my attention first to the
sperm whale fishery, not only because it is the most valuable, but
because it depends more upon the skill and information of those
engaged in it.

The master of a whale-ship should be a good seaman and navigator,
well acquainted with the winds and currents, as well as with the
cruising-ground of his prey. When he is thoroughly acquainted with
these, and possesses a good ship, with a spirit of perseverance and
energy, there is little fear of his returning home with a " clean ship.'*

The principal whaling-grounds in the Pacific are shown on the
map annexed to this chapter; they are confined particularly to spaces
which have been known in the Pacific Ocean by names well under-
stood among the whalers, such as the "on-shore ground" and the
"ofl^-shore ground," "middle ground/* &c. These spaces, however,
have wide limits; thus, for instance, the "on-shore ground" embraces
the whole extent of ocean along the coast of Chili and Peru, from the
island of Juan Fernandez to the Gallipagos Islands; and the *' off-shore
ground" the space between latitude 5° and 10° S., longitude 90"^ and
120° VV.

The following list embraces all the different grounds in the Pacific
visited by our whalers.

L The on-shore ground.

2. " off-shore ground.

3. In the neighbourhood of the Hawaiian Islands.

4. " " Society Islands.

5. •* " Sam can Group.

6^ ** ** Feejee Group,

7. " " Kingsmill Group.

ike

Kingsmill Group.
9. Across the South Pacific, between the parallels of 21^ and 21^ S.

10. « North " " " 27° and 35^ N-

11. In the neighbourhood of the east coast of New Zealand*

12. The Middle Ground, between New Holland and New Zealand.
13 Thfi pnnsf af .Tnnnn nn/I ?w^firfien it and the Boniu Islands.

America.

15. Coast of California,

These, it will be seen, embrace a large field, and it might be sup-

488 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

posed that a ship could hardly miss finding the animals. Such, how-
ever, is not the case. A vessel may visit all these places, and yet
return home a "clean ship," if she happened to be out of season. It
appears from experience that whales in their migrations congregate in
the above-named places at certain times of the year, and those who
are acquainted with the business endeavour to be early on the cruising-
grounds. I shall now point out the times, according to the best infor-
mation, at which the whales visit the several grounds, and although

not a w haler, I hope to give such information as may be useful to this
adventurous class of my countrymen.

For convenience of description the cruising-grounds may be con-
sidered as included within four distinct sections or belts.

These belts are from twenty to twenty-five degrees of latitude in
width.

The first of which I shall speak is that between the equator and the
northern tropic ; the second, between the tropic and latitude 50° N. ;
the third, between the equator and the southern tropic ; and the fourth,
between the southern tropic and latitude 50° S.

Within the tropics, whales are almost always to be met with. There
are, however, particular places within this zone where they chiefly
congregate. Whales are found in the first belt on the north side of
the equator, to the southward of the Sandwich Islands, and thence
westward as far as the Mulgrave Islands, for the greater part of the
year; but the only spot or space they are known to abound at any
particular season within this belt, is to the westward of the Gallipagos;
they pass and repass over the rest of this space in their migrations, and
may generally be found near to, or around the small islands.

In the second belt, they range from the coast of Japan to the north-
west coast of America, and California; this they frequent from May
till November. In the month of July they are found off the Benin
Islands, and between them and the coast of Japan. They frequent the
space lying to the northward of the Hawaiian Islands, and compre-
hended between the parallels of 2S° and 35^=* N., and within the meri-
dians of 145^ and 165° W., from June to October; and resort to the
northwest coast of America in August and September; and to that
of California in November and January.

The third belt comprises the ocean from the coast of South America
to theKingsmill Group, including the Marquesas, Society, and Friendly
Islands, the Samoan and Feejee Groups. Within these are the spaces
known as the "on shore and off-shore grounds." The latter the whalers
frequent from November to February, and along this third belt they
are found until the months of July and August, by which time they

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 489

reach the Kingsmill and Feejee Groups. There are, however, strag-
glers to be met with in this space during all seasons.

The fourth belt extends from the southern tropic to the latitude of
50^ S. The most profitable time for cruising within it is in the months
of March, April, and May, to the eastward of New Zealand. After that
date, along and between the parallels of 22'' and 28° S., from the coast
of New Holland to that of South America. The portion of sea between
New Holland and New Zealand, is called the " middle ground," and is
frequently found very profitable.

From an examination of the particular localities in which whales are
found most numerous at certain seasons, and connecting these with my
own observations on currents, I am induced to believe the places of
their resort will point more correctly to the neutral points, or spaces
of no current, than any other data that we yet possess.

These must naturally become the rendezvous or feeding-places of
these animals. The determination of these points will therefore throw
additional light on the system of currents in the ocean, by pointing out
the neutral spaces. The chief resort of whales will be seen on the map
at one view ; and when these are connected with the currents shown to
exist by the obsej'vations of the Expedition and others, they will be

found to correspond in a remarkable manner with the neutral spaces.

I have myself paid much attention to acquiring information in relation
to the position of these grounds, from the masters of whale-ships, but

have usually found their reports at variance one with another, and they
have sometimes differed as much as five degrees in assigning their
limits. Their position, no doubt, varies much in different years; but
even this will not explain all the discrepancies of the statements.

If we examine the seasons of the appearance of whales at certain
islands, they will generally be found to be between the beginning and
the end of the summer of the climate, during which time animal life is
most prolific, and the food of the whale consequently abounds near the
particular group. I have frequently been told, and it is generally
believed, that whales are partial to warmth, and frequent few places
outside the tropics. This, if true, would be singular enough; but the
main reason for their frequenting the summer seas at particular seasons
is the procurenftnt of food, which is there to be found in greater
abundance; and there appears to be little doubt that in migrating, these
animals move with the currents, until they find their food in plenty, and
then continue in such locality until it is exhausted.

A number of instances are known, as will be seen by referring to the
Track Map, which will be found in the atlas to these volumes, in which,
at certain seasons, strong currents have been experienced in places

VOL. V. 62

490 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

J

L

where, three months afterwards, they were found to have ceased alto-
gether, or even to have changed their direction. I have now particular
reference to the Northwest Coast.

Having pointed out the different belts in the Pacific, I will now refer
to the localities in the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, where the sperm
W'hale fishery is most successful.

These, in like manner, are found to correspond, and are connected
■with the obstructions of the submarhie currents, or the places where,
from opposing causes, they become lost.

In the Atlantic Ocean :

1. Off the Azores or Western Islands,

2. *• Cape de Verde s,

3. North of the Bahama Banks.

4. Gulf of Mexico.

5. Caribbean Sea,

6. To the eastward of the Windward Islands,

7. North coast of Brazil.

8. South coast of Brazil,

9. Carrol Ground, or a space of ocean lying between St. Helena and Africa,

In the Indian Ocean :

Afr

u u ci

2. " northern end « «

3. The coast of Arabia.

4. West coast of Java.

5. Northwest coast of New Holland.

6. South coast of New Holland, and between it and Van Diemen*s Land.

The periods or times allotted to these fisheries coincide with the
times at which it might be expected that the food of the whale would
be most plentiful if brought by the polar streams.

The Atlantic fishery is for the most part carried on in a smaller
class of vessels than those used in the Pacific; the voyages are of less
duration, and less capital is therefore required in this business than the
other. In speaking of cruising-grounds, I shall follow the order in
which they are visited.

The first in point of time is that near the Azores, This ground does
not extend more than two hundred miles from these islands, and lies
principally to the southward of them. Here whales are found during
the summer months, and as late as October. These islands, it will be
w^ell to remark here, lie in the route of the Great North Polar Stream,
and form an obstruction to its passage ; consequently the food is
arrested in its progress and is accumulated here.

The next ground visited is off Cape Blanco and the Cape de Verdes,
and it is also searched by the outward-bound ships of the Pacific fleet.

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 491

The whalers of the Atlantic next pass to the north coast of Brazil,
in the months of October, November, and Decennber, and thence to
the Brazil Bank, and off the naouths of the Rio de la Plata, where
they fish in January and February; after this they seek St. Helena
and the Carrol Ground, which lies from fifty to two hundred miles
southeast of that island, towards the Cape of Good Hope. On the

latter ground

March

May

Windw

Bahama Banks, Cape Hatteras, and along the coast of the United
States, home.

The smaller class of whalers seldom extend their cruising to the
south of the line; but after they have visited the first two whaling-
grounds, they usually pass to the westward, towards the islands of
Fernando de Noronha, and thence along the South American coast,
till they reach the Windward Islands. They frequent the Caribbean
Sea in the months of January and February, and farther to the west-
ward, off the peninsula of Yucatan, and Cuba, in April; after which
time they proceed through the Gulf of Mexico, to cruise oflf the
Bahama Banks, and Cape Hatteras, in May. Thence they pass
northward, on either side of the Gulf Stream, to the eastern side of
the Grand Banks.

In the Indian Ocean, the south part of Madagascar, off Point Dau-
phin, is visited in March and^pril; in May, June, and July, the
ground off the southwest cape of Madagascar, in the Mozambique
Channel, and upon both sides of that channel. The whalers usually
recruit in St. Augustine's Bay, where supplies are to be had in
abundance, and both wood and water are easily procured. After this
they usually spend some time off Cape Corrientes, with the Cape and
headlands on either side, and visit the Comoro Isles. Sperm whales
are frequently found in numbers among these islands, and ships usually
do well in their vicinity. The African coast, from Mozambique to
Zanzibar, is good ground, and the latter place is also a good port for

repairing.

Some ships extend their cruising during the northeast monsoon, from
October to April, to the Arabian coast, but the African is generally
preferred. The Chagos Archipelago at times affords some success,
but it is very doubtful ground, and has not been often frequented. The
proper season is during the southwest monsoon.

The most profitable ground in the Indian Ocean is the west and
northwest coast of New Holland, as far eastward as the islands of

492 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

Timor, Lombock, and Angier, and westward to the Keeling Islands,

including the coast of Java.

On reference to the map illustrative of the currents and whaling-
grounds, before referred to, it wnll be perceived how nearly these
grounds coincide with the places wherein, according to the views
already stated, the polar streams are obstructed by land or islands, so
as either to interrupt their course, or create such an impediment as to
change it.

The Sooloo Sea is the only place that remains to be noticed* Ame-
rican ships, however, have seldom gone thither; but some English
vessels are reported as having met with much success there.

There are two routes by which our whale-ships can enter the
Pacific : one by the Cape of Good Hope and round New Holland ; the
other, by Cape Horn.

To take the first route, they ought generally to time their departure
so as to meet the season off New Zealand in March, and this is also
the best course for ships sailing in the autumn from the United States
They will then reach their whaling-ground at the earliest possible
season, and place themselv^es at once in a situation to reap the harvest
of which they are in search ; and they would, in all probability, have
time to refit and recruit after the outward voyage. This is much

more important for insuring success in this employment than very
many either of the masters or owners are aware. After a few days
in port, and a supply of fresh vegetables, they would find both their
ships and crews in a better condition to take the sea and keep it.
After remaining six weeks or two months on the New Zealand
Ground, until the winter season and boisterous weather approach,
the vessels should pass to the northward, towards Sunday Island,
and thence cruise to the eastward, between the latitudes of 22^ and
28"^ S., or even in a few degrees higher latitude. The lower lati-
tudes are, however, found to be the most frequented by the whale.
Along these parallels they proceed as far as the coast of South Ame-
rica, so as to arrive there in the course of the month of September,
after passing part of the time to the westward of the islands of Juan
Fernandez and Massafuera.

Other vessels reach the Society Islands in June, and thence pass to
the westward, in order to meet the season off the Samoan and Feejee
Groups; thence again without the tropics to the south, either on the
" middle ground," between New Holland and New Zealand, or to a
higher south latitude, and again meet the season off New Zealand at
the end of summer or in March. Those that reach the coast of Chili

I

\

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 493

generally recruit in the bay of Talcahuana, or in the port of Payta, in
Peru, and are ready to take up the season on the "off-shore ground"
in November.

Vessels leaving the United States in the beginning of summer,
would do better to take the route round Cape Horn, reaching Chili or
Peru in time to recruit before the month of November, at which time
they repair to the ** off-shore ground," where they remain for one, two,
or three months; thence pass to the Marquesas Islands and to the
westward of them, and thence to the west, along the equator, as far as
the Mulgrave Islands and the coast of Japan. Returning, they proceed
to the northwest coast of America, California, and finally reach the
Sandwich .Islands to recruit by the months of October or November.
Other vessels pass directly from the ** off-shore ground" to the neigh-
bourhood of the Sandwich Islands, where they spend the months of
February, March, and a part of April; they then proceed to the
latitude of 30*^, and continue their cruising on each side of that parallel

October

repair to the Hawaiian Islands to recruit.

fleet

operate in these numerous and extensive spaces, without^ the vessels
interfering with each other, and many more might be advantageously
employed. An opinion has indeed gained ground within a few years
that the whales are diminishing in numbers; but this surmise, as far

as 1 have learned from the numerous mquiries, does not appear to be
well founded.

They have indeed become wilder, or as some of the whalers express
it, " more scary," and, in consequence, not so easy to capture; but if
we consider the numbers that continue to be yearly taken, there will,
I think, be no reason to suppose that any great decrease has occurred.
On an average, it requires fifty whales to fill a ship, and it would
therefore take about five thousand whales annually, to supply the
quantity of oil that is imported. This would appear but a small pro-
portionate number, if these animals were as prolific as our herds on
shore, when it is considered that they have a feeding-ground of twenty
millions of square miles.

The number of right whales captured is to the spermaceti in the
proportion of about two to one. The former are principally found on
the coasts, in the bays, and even in the harbours, and are far more
numerous than the sperm whale. They are pursued to the greatest
advantage in small vessels. They frequent the coast of Chili during

the summer season, from October to March, and are to be found on the
northwest coast of America and that of California, during the northern

2R

»

4^,4 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

summer, or from March to November, On both the east and west
coasts of New Holland, as well as on that of New Zealand, they are
abundant from September to March, in the bays, where they resort to
calve. This, however, they no longer do without molestation, as the
shores are now occupied by extensive establishments for taking them,
well provided with boats. On the signal from the look-out, the boats
are launched, and soon in hot pursuit of the game, which, when killed,
is towed into the bay and dragged on shore, where it is cut up and
" tryed out."

There are few places which surpass these localities for the commis-
sion of all kinds of vice ; and in saying this, I have reference as well
to those of South and West Australia, as to those of New Zealand,
although the latter are the most noted for their enormities. Some
merchants, it is said, in Sydney, advance the capital, and share the
profits with those who undertake the business. The latter generally
engage in their service a large number of natives and some of the
lowest whites, whom they allow to indulge in every sort of vice, so
long as they can make use of them. Quarrels often take place between
the parties engaged in the same business, and the rivalry not unfre-
quently leads to sharp conflicts and bloodshed.

I am surprised that the British authorities have not taken cogni-
zance of the outrageous acts that are constantly taking place within
the limits where they claim authority. One of these acts was made
known to me after my arrival at the Bay of Islands, and I regretted
the impossibility of repairing to the spot to demand redress. The
following is the statement of the master, officers, and crew.

"While the whale-ship Adeline, Thomas Brown, master, was lying
at Kapiti, New Zealand, on the 12th of December, 1839, for the pur-
pose of refitting with wood and water, at about 2 p. m., as the third
officer and five of the crew were employed in towing off a raft of
water; being about one mile from the ship, they were boarded by a
whale-boat, having a crew of eight Europeans and one New Zealander,
under one James Harrison as headsman, armed with pistols and knives,
(being a part of the persons employed by Raymond and Young,) who
forcibly took possession of the boat and cut off the raft, threatening
instant death to any one who should make resistance. Having thus
captured the boat, they at once made sail, and ran for their establish-
ment, on the shore, about six miles distant. The captain, on perceiving
the piratical act, at once followed with two boats, but did not succeed
in overtaking them until they reached the shore and had hauled the
captured boat up on the beach. While on his way he was pursued
by another boat, which kept firing at him. 'The captured boat w^as

f

f

CURRENTS AND WHALING. #495

surrounded on (he beach by from thirty to forty desperate-looking
wretches, more or less armed* Of these, Harrison became the
spokesman, declaring that they had taken the boat and meant to keep
it, at the risk of his and all the party^s lives, to which speech they all
signified their assent. Captain Brown repeatedly cautioned them
against such acts of piracy ; but his caution was received with curses
and all kinds of abuse, and finally a pistol was presented, with the
declaration that he, Harrison, w^ould blow out the brains of Captain
Brown if he attempted to rescue the boat."

Such has been the indiscriminate manner in which the whales have
been slaughtered, both old and young, that these haunts have of late
years been less frequented by them.

The right whale is found of much larger size in high latitudes than in
low, and not unfrequently yields, when taken in these latitudes, as much
as one hundred and eighty barrels of oil Besides the oil, the whale-
bone produces some profit. A large number of these w^hales were seen
by us in the bays about Cape Horn, in the months of March and April;
but the w^eather there is seldom favourable to the use of boats, and
would of course preclude success in carrying on such a business.

On soundings, and in shoal water, attempts have been made to
capture a different species of whale, called the humpback (Gibbosa) ;
but there is a great impediment to the securing of the spoils of this
game, for when killed they immediately sink for thirty or forty hours.
It therefore becomes necessary, either lo anchor a boat near by to
watch them, or leave a buoy, and then not unfrequently they may be
swept off by the under-current, or lost by bad weather.

Although the high latitudes oflTer great inducements on account of

size

existing, that render it preferable to pursue the game in the low lati-
tudes. The weather, even in the summer season, is often tempestuous,,

i

which makes it dangerous to lower boats ; and there are, even in the
fine season, fogs, which not only tantalize, but prevent the chase from
being extended to any distance from the ship, without the risk of losing
both boats and crew. I have been told that it has frequently happened
that boats have been separated from the ship for several days; thus not
only producing great anxiety, but often much distress from want of
provisions and water. Our whalers feel that there is quite enough of
adventure and peril in following their employment in the lower and

less boisterous latitudes.

Notwithstanding these difficulties, the favourite and most successful
ground for the right whale, is between the fiftieth and fifty-fifth parallel
of%^nrth Inii'tnHp. whpm vast numbers have been recently taken in June

496 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

and July, of great size; although the season is of short duration, yet
large ships have obtained a full cargo before its close-
It is in^possible to meet a whale-ship on the ocean without being
struck by her mere appearance: The vessel under short sail, with
look-outs at the masthead, eagerly scanning the wide expanse around
them, has a totally different air from those engaged in a regular voyage.
But admiration is excited on becoming a looker-on at the chase and
capture. When the cry from aloft of *' There she spouts!" and the
quick response of "Where away?' are heard, the bustle on the deck
shows a state of animation that would scarcely be supposed possible
among such a looking set of men. The boats are immediately put in
requisition, lowered and manned, and within a few minutes the pursuit
is begun. The boats dash on until the boat-steerer comes within sight
of his object; the whale is soon reconnoitred, and endeavours are made
to approach him unobserved, and plunge the harpoon as near the fin as
possible; a wound in this place is sometimes fatal, and no further injury

is necessary to secure the animaPs capture.

On being struck, the whale at once dives, carrying out the line

(w^hich is kept coiled up in tubs) with great velocity, through a notch
in the stem of the boat. The velocity of the line is at times so great,
that in order to prevent the boat from being set on fire by the friction,
water is applied- After the whale dives, some fifteen or twenty minutes
pass, during which time the " fast" boat is often carried a great dis-
tance from the others, for the whale in descending generally takes an
oblique course. The boat is so much buried in her rapid flight, that I
have at times only been able to see the persons in her, for the water on
each side was thrown so high as to conceal the hull from a distant
observer, although the sea was otherwise quite smooth.

As the whale rises, a skilful boat-steerer will be ready at hand, and
the moment the animal makes his appearance, lances are plunged in'
quick succession into his vital parts ; when off he again bounds with
the life-blood streaming from him, and shortly after, this huge monster
is seen to turn over lifeless on his back. The shortness of time that
seems to elapse from the first onset to the capture and death of so large
an animal, is almost inconceivable; and the apparently insufficient
means that are employed to accomplish it, are likewise remarkable-

The whale being slain, signal is made for the ship, if to windward,
to come down, or if to leeward, the monster is taken in tow by the
boats and brought alongside, w^hen the " fluke hooks" and chains are
nsed to secure him; the operation of baling out the head-matter then
begins, which is followed by stripping off the blubber in large pieces,
called " blankets," from four to six feet wide, to which tackles &re

»

I

CURRENTS AND WHALING. 497

applied to draw it up as it is separated from the carcass. After being
taken on board, tlie blankets are cut up. The next operation is
" trying out :" this is done by melting the blubber in large pots set in
a fire-place of brick-work, which is carefully secured on the upper
deck, with a trough around it, in which water is put to prevent acci-
dents from fire. The fuel used is blubber from which the oil has been
extracted, which produces a strong heat^ and is a very economical
fire. To prevent accidents great caution is necessary, and the readiest
mode that has been found to extinguish tlie burning oil, is by throwing
sand on it; a quantity of sand is, therefore, generally kept in the
" try-works." In well-regulated ships, the oil after boiling is put into
reservoirs until it cools, after which it is drawn off and placed in the
proper casks; of each of these a sample is kept, properly marked and
labelled, and these are often shown with much pride by the master of
the ship to his visiters, as; indication of his success and the quality of

his oil.

The profits of the whaling fishery have been great, and show what
industry and perseverance can yield when well directed- The small
number of accidents in this large fleet is surprising; for the total
losses for which underwriters have to pay, seldom exceed one per
cent., and those from other accidents are not more than one half per
cent. The insurance seldom exceeds two and a half per cent, by the
year, and at this low premium the underwriters have derived good

dividends.

Of late years there has been much fluctuation in the price of oil,
which has caused those to make losing voyages who returned at the
times of its depression ; but at the steady prices of eighty-five cents
per gallon for sperm oil, and thirty-five cents for whale oil, voyages
would generally yield a handsome return.

It is estimated that about ten per cent, of the ships make losing
voyages, as well from the incompetency of the masters as from acci-
dent and ill luck.

The greater proportion of the oil finds a market in Germany, Hol-
land, and Prussia ; consequently the prices abroad control those at

home.

I have stated the number of sperm whales that are taken at five
thousand, and this may in some years be beyond the truth. From the
best authorities, the whole of both species annually taken is about ten
thousand, including those lost from accident, and those cut adrift, in
consequence of bad weather or night These losses may amount to
eight or ten per cent, of those mortally wounded

It is said that an equal proportion of bull and cow whales are taken.

VOL V.

2R2 63

i

498 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

It is, however, admitted that the latter are the most numerous; and
the probable reason for the equality in the number taken may be that
the bull whale being the largest, is most sought after. The bull whales
yield, on an average, from thirty to one hundred barrels of oil, while
the cows seldom exceed forty-five barrels, and at times yield no more
than five barrels- Bull whales are never found together, but in small
numbers, while the cows are seen in large herds.

The right whale fisheries occupy the higher latitudes in both hemi-
spheres, which are their feeding-grounds. As the winter is setting in,
the cows resort to the bays to bring forth their young, where the^f
remain until the spring months, when they again resort to the feeding-
grounds, to meet the bulls. It is not known where the latter go during
the interval, but it is generally supposed to the high latitudes, where
they find their food in greater plenty.

^

While visiting the ports for the purpose of recruiting, the crews of

whale-ships are often found in a state of lax discipline ; both captains

and crew take this opportunity to lay their complaints before the

consuls, who are much troubled with them, and frequently at a loss

to understand and pass upon the merits of the case. The crews

usually complain of bad provisions, short allowance, and bad usage;

in some cases I have heard them assert that they felt their lives in

danger from the outrageous conduct of the captain; and in one

instance, even the officers joined in the complaint. The captain, on

the other hand, believed that there was a conspiracy on foot to poison
him.

Many Americans are found on the different islands, who have been
turned ashore from whale-ships, or left because they have broken their
liberty a single time, near the end of a voyage. Such treatment leaves
too much ground to believe that they are purposely left, in order to
increase the profits of the ship-master or owners. Several of these
men were received, in a perfectly destitute condition, on board the
Vincennes ; others were taken out of prison, and all related many of the
difficulties and troubles they had to encounter on board the ship to
which they were attached ; although I am not generally disposed to
place much reliance on their statements, yet it cannot but happen that
out of so many cases there must be some in which the seamen were in
the right.

It is difficult to suggest any remedy for this state of thino-s by ie^^is-
lation. The law passed in 1837 has had a beneficial effect in protect-
ing the crews against a short supply of provisions, and in causing them
to be furnished with wholesome food. But the quantity as well as the
quality of the rations ought to be fixed by law, that every one who is

t

t

CDRRENTSAND WHALING. 499

restricted in food by his commander may receive an equivalent in
money.

The ration has been hitherto left to the master and owner, and
although it is the true interest of the latter that the crew of his ship
should be well fed, yet there are many who think and practise the con-
trary. I see no reason why there should not be a lawful ration fixed
as well in the merchant service as in the navy, and when it is not
supplied in full, that the crew shall be entitled to be paid for the
deficiency; it then could be no object for a master or owner to stint
them, I have generally observed that by far the greater part of the
complaints arise from this cause, and when the master is part owner
they are almost invariably made.

Another cause of complaint arises from the practice of issuing slops
to the crews instead of money, and giving the supply of these to the
master as a perquisite- I was not a little surprised when I learned that
this perquisite had amounted to eighteen hundred dollars with a crew
of about thirty men. It, in fact, sometimes reaches the amount of
between two and three thousand dollars ; and it will naturally excite
some curiosity to know how so large a net gain could accrue from
sailors whose ordinary dress is but a pair of coarse blue trousers and
red flannel shirt. There is, however, no difficulty in the explanation.
The crew, in the first place, get an outfit in clothing as an advance,
which is charged to them at a profit of one hundred per cent.; they then
when allowed liberty on shore are obliged to draw these goods or
clothing, in lieu of money, and cannot exchange them on shore for
more than one-fourth of what they are charged for them. In this w^ay
a debt is accumulated against the " lay" of the seaman, until he finds
before the end of the voyage that the whole amount that ought to
accrue to him is dissipated. This naturally leads to discontent against
the persons whom he know^s or believes to be the authors of his loss,
and for whose gain all his labours have gone. This stale of things
unavoidably produces difficulties, more or less serious according to the
number of the crew who find themselves thus circumstanced. I am not
prepared to say how this can be avoided, but I am well satisfied it
would be for the interest of the owners to reserve this supply to them-
selves, and charge it to the crew, at such advance on the cost as will
just secure themselves from loss. By doing this they would find that
the expenses caused by detention and the many vexations and quarrels
would be saved. It is inconceivable how much time is lost in port by
these difficulties between the master and crew-
Many difficulties would certainly be prevented by the government
sending men-of-war to the ports at the time they are frequented by the

500 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

whalers, not only to support the authority of the consuls and masters
of whalers, but at the same time to protect the interests of the crews. I am
'w^ell assured that the presence of our national vessels would in a great
measure prevent many of the disturbances that are constantly occurring
between the masters and crews, among the crews of different vessels,
and between both these and the authorities on shore. It is due to the
large interest embarked in this extended fishery, that the government
should protect its defenceless ships against savage attacks, and have a
force at hand to preserve the property in case of accident or wreck.
Two of our vessels of war, actively engaged, would suffice to afford
ample protection to this business, by being kept cruising so as to reach
the various ports at the proper seasons. In this way they might be the
means of relieving many of our countrymen from distressing situations,
and of restoring them to their homes in safety- A knowledge among
the whaling-fleet that their interests w^ere watched over, even if they
made no calls for aid, would give security, and protect them from
impositions, as well as prevent them from practising fraud, or com-
.mitting aggressions on the natives of the islands they visit. Such
aggressions invariably lead to retaliations on the part of the chiefs,
which they inflict upon the first unsuspecting vessel that anchors in
their ports. The capture of vessels, and the massacre of their whole
crews, have frequently been owing to this cause.

It would also be the means of securing the owners against losses;
for it scarcely need be stated, that in the event of accidents, that would
be deemed elsewhere of a trivial nature, condemnation frequently
ensues, and a total sacrifice of the property. This is not to be ascribed
to any want of vigilance, or to connivance on tlie part of our consuls
or the public authorities ; but it arises from the desire on the part of
whole communities to derive profit out of accident. A visit of a man-
of-war, or the feeling that one was or would be at hand to aflford suc-
cour, and relieve distress, would have a tendency to remove these evils.

The difficulties to which the whaling fleet is exposed are often
aggravated by the position of our consuls; for if engaged in trade, as
they almost always are, they lose that influence and standing with the
authorities, which they otherwise would have, whether civilized or
savage, as well as with their own countrymen.

The whole system is wrong : those appointed to such situations
should not be suffered to engage in trade, but should receive a salary
adequate to their support. This would place them in a situation to
assert our rights; prevent the difficuhies now of daily occurence; and
enable the consuls to maintain the high standing they ought to hold in

•

foreign ports.

! CURRENTS AND. WHALINa 50]

' i

The crews of whale-ships are much more prone to scurvy than I
' had any idea of: during our stay at Oahu, several ships arrived, more

or less affected with this horrible disorder, which arose from various
causes; my inquiries satisfied me it was in most cases to be imputed
to the long period passed at sea, aggravated by the despondency aris-
ing from want of success. In one case in particular, the captain had
stopped at some islands for fruit and provisions, of which he had
I received an ample supply, and, concluding that his crew would re-

cover, he continued to cruise^ntil he finally reached Oahu with no
more than three men fit for duty. Several of his men had died, and
the rest were in a very precarious state. This, in my mind, is a
sufficient proof that it is absolutely necessary, not only to give the
crew occasional relaxation, but a change of employment, and addi-
tional hours of rest ; it also shows that fresh provisions are not alone
a sufficient preventive against, or cure for the scurvy. A change of
diet must be accompanied by a change of scene, and cleanliness. To
a strict attention to these circumstances, and care in promoting cheer-
fulness, I impute the remarkable freedom from disease enjoyed in the
squadron during the whole cruise. Feeling constantly that on the
health and good condition of my men every thing depended, I lost no
opportunity of encouraging amusements, and particularly enjoining
attention to their cleanliness.

I w^ould strongly urge upon the owners of whale-ships the necessity
of the assignment of a larger and more airy apartment to the crew.
The usual accommodation in the forecastle of a ship is in every respect
unfitted to preserve either cleanliness or comfort. There is, perhaps,
more room for improvement in this respect than in any other that can
engage the attention of the owners of ships. While they are lavishing
every sort of expense on the cabins and saloons, and receiving the
meed of praise from the civilized world for the costliness and beauty
of the decorations, I would ask them to bestow some small attention
and expenditure to increase the comforts of the common sailor, by
whose aid alone their business can be carried on.

Among the masters of whale-ships with whom it has been my good
fortune to fall in with, were many intelligent persons, from whom I
have derived much pleasure and information in my intercourse with
them. As a class, they bear a high character; but there are some, I
regret to say, whose actions tend only to bring disgrace on them-
selves and the pursuit they follow. I shall not dwell upon such a
disagreeable topic, trusting that time and good example will meliorate
the evil.

There is one entreaty I would urge upon all those who are engaged

502 CURRENTS AND WHALING.

•

in the whale and biche de mar fishery ; namely, that in their inter-
course with the natives of the South Seas they would treat them with
justice and honesty. By so doing, I am satisfied that however much

be

I

4

would not, however, be understood to say, that they should relax
any thing in watchfulness against treachery ; but while this is attended
to, all harsh treatment to the natives should be avoided.

Above every thing, a strict morality should be preserved on board,
both by precept and example, and none should believe themselves
beyond the eye of those whose respect they value at home. I am
well assured that under such auspices, the arrival of a whale-ship
would be hailed with delight in the ports it may visit, instead of being
often looked upon as it now is, as a blight upon a dawning civiliza-
tion. On no consideration should the debt to those pioneers of civili-
zation, the missionaries, be forgotten; for they have already, in very
many parts, by their example and instruction, been the means of saving'
many of our countrymen and shipmates from cruel captivity and
horrible death.

Before closing this chapter, I would also say a word to the first
planners and promoters of foreign missions in the South Seas, entreat-
ing them to turn their attention to the morals of those who follow the
sea, and the improvement of their condition. Our ships might, by
proper exertions at home, be soon made to carry on every breeze, to
the ports and islands of the Pacific, such an example as would promote
the great cause of morality, religion, and temperance: of one truth I
am satisfied, that if one-tenth of the sums and attention now expended
in other ways, w^ere applied to improving the condition of sailors,
elevating them in their circumstances, both at sea and on shore, it

would produce in a short time the most desirable results ; and instead
of our " tars" being considered, as they now frequently are, worthless
reprobates, opposed to every thing that is sacred, they will be found a
band of industrious advocates in the cause of civilization. Until this
class of men is brought up to a respectable standing, the cause to
which so much exertion has been applied, so much talent and perse-
verance have been sacrificed, and which now claims so much of the
interest and attention of the civilized world, can never permanently
prosper.

The field for improvement is wide, and those who first labour in it
must reap a most satisfactory harvest. To none does it more apper-
tain to take the first step, and push earnestly onwards, than the owners
of our mercantile marine, and of our whaling fleet in particular.

ii

■^

■i

«

«

X.

I

i

CONTENTS.

L CAPTAIIV HUDSON'S ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT WALKEE 507

11. CAPTAIN HUDSONS ORDERS TO LIEUTENANTS WALKER AND EMMONS,

ETC

503

III. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT WALKER 512

IV, ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT EMMONS. 514

V. LETTER TO DR. MCLAUGHLIN 519

VL ORDERS TO VINCENNES 530

VIL STATISTICS, CALIFORNIAN MISSIONS ^ .. 522

VIIL LETTER TO GOVERNOR KEKUANAOA • «3

IX. STATISTICS, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, SCHOOLS, ETC ...-- 526

X. ORDERS TO PORPOISE AND OREGON '. 539

XL ORDERS TO FLYING-FISH -.- 530

XIL EXPORTS FROM MANILLA 531

XIIL SOOLOO TREATY ^..- 5^

rii

XIV. ORDERS TO PORPOISE AND OREGON 533

XV, STATISTICAL RETURNS OP THE POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 535
XVL VALUE OF COINS, ST. HELENA * 536

■

XVIL VALUE OF EXCHANGE IN THE VARIOUS PORTS 538

XVIIL TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS OF THE VARIOUS RACES OP THE POLYNESIAN

ISLANDS 539

2S

(505)

« < 1

■ ■

'-f *:

I

(

APPENDIX.

t'H,

I.

U. S, Ship Peacock,
Saluafata Bay,

^

February 25th, 1841.
Sir,

You will take charge of the boat expedition against the towns of
Saluafata, Fusi, and Salelese.

Your party will be divided into three divisions: you will take
charge of the first, accompanied by Lieutenant De Haven; and
Lieutenant Emnf)ons, assisted by Passed Midshipman Davis, will take
charge of the second division ; laeutenant Perry, assisted by Passed
Midshipman Harrison, will take charge of the third division, of re-
served men, and remain on the beach, for the preservation of the
boats, and to secure your retreat.

You will give the most positive orders not to fire on the natives or

destroy life, unless the safety of your own party, or operi and hostile

resistance on the part of the natives, make it absolutely necessary for

the discharge of the duty assigned you.

I trust much to your discretion and prompt attention on the present
occasion, and that the men and officers placed under your command
may not be subjected to any unnecessary hazard or exposure. With

a sincere desire for your safety and success,

I am, &C-,

Wm L* Hudson,

Comraanding" U. S. Ship Peacock.

To LXWTKNANT Wm. M. WaLKER,

U. S. Ship Peacocki

(507)

508 APPENDIX.

IL

Sir,

U. S. Ship Peacock,
Off Apia, February 26th, 1841.

M

from this ship, and join the Flying-Fish, which vessel I have placed
under your command, for the purpose of securing the chief Pea, and

bringing him off from the island of Manono.

I wish you to proceed with all possible despatch to the island of
Manono, under the pretence of surveying its reefs and harbours Avith
your boat, leaving the schooner in such a position as you may deem
most advisable and circumstances shall suggest, to avoid any suspicion
of your designs on the part of the natives.

After reaching the island, you will ascertain the chief Pea*s where-
abouts, &c., and the most successful manner of getting him off to
this ship without injury to any of your own party, or the chief's.

Should your enterprise prove successful, you will return to the ship
as soon as possible, passing round the south end of Savaii, and sending
your boat to the house of Mr. M'Donald, with the proffer of an asylum
to himself and family on board the schooner until you join the Peacock
off the northwest end of Savaii, or at the harbour of Mataatau.

It is an important matter that we should secure the chief Pea for
the purpose of obtaining the notorious chief Opotuno. You will treat
your prisoner with all the kindness consistent with his safe-keeping,
should you succeed in capturing him.

The manner of proceeding is confided to your judgment and discre-
tion- Wishing you success in your enterprise,

I am, &c.,

William L. Hudson,

Commanding U- S. Ship Peacock.
Lieutenant George F. Emmons,

U, S. Ship Peacock.

■J

P. S. Should Mr. M'Donald deem it necessary to embark on board
the schooner (to whom you can confidentially say we have Pea, and
intend to demand Opotuno), he must do it without delay, and direct
his canoe to follow on to the Peacock.

W. L. H.

U, & Ship Peacock,

Sir,

OiFUpolu, February 27th, 1841.

You will take charge of two boats from this ship, accompanied by

APPENDIX, 509

Lieutenant De Haven, for the purpose of securing and bringing off the

chief Malietoa, and if practicable the chief George from Cocoa-nut
Point. Malietoa, however, being the most important personage to us
at the present time, must be first arrested. You will be careful not to
capture the chiefs until such a time as the tide may serve for getting
your boats over the reef.

In making prisoners of these chiefs, you will avoid any hostile act
upon the natives, beyond what the most urgent necessity of the duty
assigned you calls for, and endeavour to get them off without injury to
them or any of your own party.

Your manner of proceeding on shore should be such as to avoid the
least suspicion of your object, and the capture so well-timed as to
avoid either hazard or defeat. No special or positive directions can
be furnished by me for your guidance; you will act as circumstances
may suggest ; consequently your manner of proceeding on shore is
confided to your own judgment and discretion-
Should your enterprise prove successful, you will treat the chiefs
with all the kindness consistent with their safe-keeping, and return to
this ship with the least possible delay.

The Peacock will be kept in the offing, and lights shown during the

night.

Wishing you all success,

I am, &c.,

William L. Hudson,

Commanding- U- S. Ship Peacock,

Lieutenant Wm. M, Walker,

U. S. Ship Peacock.

U. S. Ship Peacock*

March 1st, 1 841.

SlE,

Malietoa

on the evening of the 28th inst., supposing that a movement apparently
so undisguised, would lull every suspicion of our intentions.

At 10 p. M. we made every preparation to complete the execution

of your orders, and a dark and rainy night flattered us with a pros-

pect of success ; but on landing to reconnoitre, I was met at the

water's edge by a large party of armed men. I passed them without

I any notice, and under the pretence o( seeking a bed in the house

adjoining that of Malietoa's, where I had slept on a former visit, dis-
covered that it was filled with men on guard, their arms within grasp
standing around. These circumstances sufficiently declared the appre-

2S2

jf-

510 APPENDIX..

L

M

hSnsions of the people, and the madness^ of any hostile movement with
so small a party as that under my command (twelve men). Trusting
that an easy and confident deportment on my part would allay their
fears, I passed a watcluvord to the boats, and lay down to sleep.

On the next morning, observing that a large number of men had
left the town, we again confidently contemplated the success of our
enterprise. With the ostensible purpose of taking leave, but with' the
design of attempting to carry him off, Lieutenant De Haven and myself
called to see Malietoa ; when, to our surprise, we learned that after
holding a council he had left the town at an early hour.

We immediately proceeded to the west side of Cocoa-nut Point,
w^hence I despatched M'Gill to ascertain, if possible, the whereabouts
of George Tongaloa, in w^hich he did not succeed.

At Apia, I learned that the chief Sangapolutale had been last seen
at the tow^n of Saluafata, on the morning of the day on which it was
burnt.

Amid the vexation of disappointment, I have the satisfaction to believe
that our conduct afforded no reason to suspect our purpose.

With great respect,

I am, &c.,

William M. Walker,

Lieutenant

Captain Wm, L. Hudson,

U. S. Ship Peacock.

U, S. Ship Peacock,

At Sea, March 6th, 184L

Sir,-

Agreeably to your instructions of the 26th of February, I proceeded
with the schooner Flying-Fish, and this ship's second cutter, off the
island of Manono. The weather being unfavourable, laid off and on
the first night; the following morning ran into a bight, formed by the
reef uniting Manono and Upolu, and anchored on broken bottom,
sheltered from all but northerly winds. This day being Saturday,
and consequently, the natives^ Sunday, was unfavourable for the
execution of my plans in capturing the chief Pea, but allowed me an
opportunity of disguising my intentions, by going through the usual
routine of surveying, sounding, &c., which I continued employed at
most of the day, landing occasionally on points of the island, to mea-
sure angles. Upon these occasions, the natives crowded around, and
asked many unusual questions ; and from their general manner, I could
see that they were very suspicious, and considerably alarmed, which

j

APPENDIX. 511

■

I was unable to account for, till towards evening, when I learned from
Passed Midshipman Reynolds (whom I had landed on the island during
the forenoon, unarmed, for the purpose of making some arrangements
for trading wiih them, on the following day, for pigs, yams, &c., and
at the same time to obtain such information in regard to said chiefs,
as would be actually necessary to the success of my plans) that the
news of our cruising, together with the object w^e had finally in view,
had preceded us four days, with the additional embellishment that the
ship was to follow us and destroy the island.

This was voluntarily told to Mr. Reynolds by a Mr. Heath, the only
foreign missionary upon the island, who asked Mr. Reynolds if he
w^ould authorize him to contradict the report, and thereby quiet the
apprehensions of the natives, who were very much alarmed, and con-
tinually coming to him to learn the truth.

This unfortunate rumour knocked all my plans in the head, and left
me but little hopes of future success. I, however, came to the conclu-
sion that if the said chief still remained upon the island, that the only
other plausible plan for getting possession of him would be by taking
him forcibly from his house during the night, or from the beach while
employed trading during the day; and to this end I had the schooner
removed the following day to the opposite side of the island, and
sounded out a passage in the reef leading to her from abreast Pea's
house.

At a suitable time, I landed with Passed Midshipman Harrison and
a boat's crew near his house, and commenced trafficking, the natives
gathering about in great numbers, and appearing less suspicious than
upon the day previous, yet many of them with their arms. Having
spent much of the day in this manner, without seeing any thing of said
chief, although many others were present, I left Mr. Harrison to trade,
while I strolled about the island.

Having visited the most probable places for meeting with him, I at
last went to his house, which contained nothing but women and chil-
dren; and from information subsequently obtained from a coloured
man (who had lived eight years on the island with a chief by the
name of Matetau), convinced me that Pea left the island soon after
our heaving in sight; but in what direction he had gone I was unable
to learn. This putting an end to my last hope, I returned to the
schooner, and commenced working to the northward, to meet the ship

at the appointed rendezvous.

On the mornins of the 1st of March launched a boat to examine

n chin nassao^e leading throuffh the sea-reef

o

what appeared to be a ship passage leading thi
around Savaii: it proved to be a boat passage only.

512 APPENDIX.

Landed at a missionary's house, and was informed by the mis-
sionary (Mr. Hardy) that the chief Pea had landed upon Savaii,
several miles from his house, about the time I appeared off Manono.

The news of our affair at Saluafata was known here soon after it
took place, which shows how fast information travels among these
people, and will in a measure account for the unfavourable result of
my cruise.

During this day it came on to blow a gale from the northward ; got
the second cutter on board, and laid to, under snug sail, for the follow-
ing days, drifting to the northward and eastward.

March 3d. Gale abating; stood for the northeast end of Savaii, and
during the 4th and 5th, was employed cruising the island around,
sometimes so close as to make it necessary to sweep the schooner off,
without finding any harbours. However, being off a place called
Salelonga, on the southeast end of Savaii, where there is a harbour
reported to exist by the missionaries, I pulled in to examine for the
same, and after sounding out the various passages leading into the
reef, found but two deep enough to admit a ship, and these so crooked
and narrow as to make it impracticable to enter otherwise than by
warping, and the space inside too small to allow a ship to swing, with
a safe scope, at her anchor. Anchorage can, however, be obtained on
sandy bottom in from ten to eighteen fathoms water, close to the outer
entrance, in a comparatively sheltered berth, owing to the proximity
of Upolu, Manono, Apolima, and their surrounding reefs.

Very respectfully.

George F. Emmons,

Captain Wm. L. Hudson,

Lieutenant

U. S, Ship Peacock.

III.

II. S. Ship Peacock,

Dnunmond

Sir,

April 9th, 1841.

You will take charge of the boat expedition against the town of
Utiroa, where John Anderson has been seized and detained bv the
natives. Your party will be formed into three divisions. Lieutenant
Emmons, assisted by Passed Midshipman Harrison, will take charge
of the first division ; Lieutenant Perry, assisted by Passed Midshipman
Davis, will take charge of the second; and Lieutenant De Haven,
assisted by Mr. Freeman (sail-maker), will take charge of the third

I

APPENDIX. 513

division of reserved men, and remain near the beach for the protection
of the boats, and to secure your retreat. You will give the most posi-
tive orders to the men not to separate for a moment from their respec-
tive officers and divisions.

A quantity of tobacco "will be furnished you by Purser Speiden for
the release of Anderson, in the event of his being given up conditionally
by the natives. Should a demand be made by the natives for his
release, you will comply with it, using great precaution in so doing to
secure the man; after which you will land, and burn the large tov^rn-
house only, and return to the ship. Should you meet him being brought
off in a canoe, with the stipulations above referred to, you will reward
the persons bringing him off, and return to the ship without landing.
Should Anderson, however, not be forthcoming soon after reaching the
town, you will fire it, being careful not to pass its boundaries to the
injury of any other village.

It is hardly necessary to say to you that women and children can
have taken no part in the seizure of Anderson ; and should the men of
the town retreat before you, you will recollect it may arise from two
causes: one may be fear, the other to decoy you into pursuit, where
they may be prepared with a reinforcement. In either case, you will
not follow them beyond the limits of the town; but as soon as the
work of destruction is completed, embark to the schooner with your
party, direct Mr. Knox to get under way, and run out to the anchorage
near the ship. If there is no wind, let your boats take him in tow.

I trust much to your discretion and prompt action on the present
occasion, and that the officers and men placed under your command
may not be subjected to any unnecessary hazard or exposure.

With a sincere desire that Anderson, if living* may be obtained, and

for the safety and success of your party,

I am, &c.,

To Lieutenant Wm. M. Walker,

U, S. Ship Peacock.

Wm. L. Hu0son,

Commanding U, S. Ship Peacock.

Vu S, Ship Peacock,

Off Drummond's Island,

April 9th, 1841,

Sir,

In obedience to your order, I proceeded this morning with the boats
under my command to the town of Utiroa, where the natives armed
and equipped to the number of about six hundred, in three divisions,

voii. V. 65

514 APPENDIX.

their flanks extending to the right and left about two hundred yards ;
large parlies were at the same time approaching along the shores.
After forming the boats in the order of landing, at the distance of about
eighty yards from the beach, I advanced, and was met by a similar
movement on the part of the natives. By means of Mr. Hale I inquired
for Anderson, and offered a reward for his delivery ; but the natives
returned evasive replies, and continued to approach from different parts
of the shore with the evident design of seizing my boat. I therefore
returned to my station in the line, when 1 directed the gunner to let off
a rocket, which fell in the midst of q, group and created some astonish-
ment. I next fired a single shot, in hopes, by exhibiting the effect,
much loss of life might be prevented ; but the natives retired so slowly,
that it became necessary to fire a volley, by which several were killed,
and many wounded.

The natives then retired to the cover of the town ; when we immedi-
ately landed and formed, leaving the third division to protect the boats.
I proceeded with the first and second divisions to fire the town in all
directions ; occasionally discharging a single shot at the natives, who
slowly retired before us.

Just before our return to the boats, the chief of Eta, the town to the
northward of Utiroa, came to us with expressions of much satisfaction
at our conduct, while his attendants busied themselves in pillaging the
burning ruins.

By the best estimate I can make, the natives lost twelve men ; there
was no means of computing the number of wounded; about three
hundred houses were burned, and many canoes were destroyed.

I am indebted for this summary execution of your orders to the
zeal and energy of the officers and men whom I had the honour to

command.

Very respectfully,

Captain Wm, L. HtrosoN,

William M. Walkejb,,

laeutenant

U. & Ship Peacock.

IV.

(Confidential.)

SlE,

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

June 15th, 1841.

You are intrusted with the charge of the party consisting of Messrs.
Peale, Rich, Agate, and Dr. Whittle, together with the necessary
servants.

APPENDIX. 515

Mr. Rodgers will also accompany you, as interpreter, caterer, &c. ;
he having been engaged by me for that purpose, for the explanation
of the district pointed out to you on the accompanying map.

Your arrangements will be completed as early as possible, and you
will be careful that the organization of your party is complete, and
that they maintain a due obedience to your orders and authority during
this service, for on it will depend their safety.

I cannot too strongly impress upon you the necessity of constant
watchfulness and caution, in the steps you will pursue, and of acquir-
ing the information necessary to enable you to judge for yourself.

It is desirable to avoid all collision with the Indians, if possible,
without, however, showing them that you do so ; and if unavoidably
attacked, you must not only repulse them, but punish them, as far as
'nay lay in your power, exercising due discretion.

The men whom Mr. Rodgers is to engage at the Willamette settle-
ment, will require of you particular attention. You will know their
terms of engagement : for the performance of which, and their good
behaviour, their pay will be made answerable.

You will observe strictly the following instructions:

1st. The route I have pointed out to you is believed to be feasible,
but as the country is unknown, it may not be so. You are not at
liberty to depart from it, however, without good and sufficient reasons^

You will, however, particularly note: my object is to get all the
information respecting the district I have marked in red, and you will
endeavour to get this as accurate as possible, by travelling over as
much of its surface as your time will admit of.

2d. Your absence is limited to the 10th of September, and I am
convinced that much knowledge may be gained of the district pointed
out to your party in that time.

3d. Observations for latitude and longitude wherever you may

encamp.

4th. You will keep an accurate map of your route, noting on it all
lakes, rivers, plains, mountains, and every thing worthy of notice, to
illustrate its features. For this purpose, furnish yourself with a blank-
book of foolscap size, and use each leaf for a day's work ; the ruled
places will answer the purpose of a scale, and be sufficiently large to

insert every thing desirable to note.

5th. You will be furnished with a pocket chronometer, sextant,
artificial horizon, prismatic compass, barometer, thermometers, Nau-
tical Almanac, and Book of Tables, which will enable you to obtain
all kinds of observations^ and I shall expect you to be very particular

516 APPENDIX.

and untiring in their use. Much of the information desired will depend
upon their use, and will demand your exertions and diligence.

Observations will be obtained daily, if possible, both for latitude and

longitude. -*

The meridian altitude of the sun, by the artificial horizon, you will
observe daily if possible, also that of the north star ; this observation
you will find easy after a little practice, by bringing the two reflected
images to cover each other. It is necessary to get the error of your
watch in mean time by a star, east or w^est, to find the true time.

This can be done immediately before or after the observation by
the north star, and be better than to depend upon the rate of your
chronometer, which may alter in riding, though it is not probable it
•will much. It must be carried in the chronometer-fob of your waist-
coat, which some of you may have near the arm. The best mode of
observing a star in the artificial horizon, is to clamp your index and
wait its contact. Choose for time those that are east or west, and of
altitude about SC^. If you observe about the same hour every night,
you will find the computation more convenient.

All your observations must be worked up as soon as possible after
they are taken.

6ih. Your route or travel must be kept by compass: this you will
find without difficulty in an open country, but through the w^oods it
will be better that each of your party be required to keep his reckon-
ing, by which you can correct your own.

The longitude of Fort Vancouver is 122° 39' 34'' W., and its lati-
tude is 45*^ 36' 53" N., from w^hich you will take your departure.

7th. To obtain the distance of remote objects, base-lines may be
measured on the plains. For this purpose the steppings of a horse
will give the best results, by first measuring his steps in one hundred
or five hundred feet, and at the ends observe the angles and bearings.

8th. A tape-line is furnished you for getting the measurement of
trees, short bases, &c., and any remarkable object you may meet
with. Attend to the velocity of rivers by the distance that a chip
will pass in any given number of seconds by your watch, and the
ratio of a log-line may be adopted.

9th. At all your encampments you will get readings of your baro-
meter, and the thermometer will be taken every six hours, and as often
also as any change of altitude or temperature may require.

If by any accident your barometer should be broken on the heights,
try the temperature at which water boils.

It is required of you to obtain the heights of all mountain ranges and

APPENDIX, 517

peaks, and the geographical position of those which have well-defined
peaks.

I need not inform you that sketches from the tops of high hills, with
good bearings, will go far to illustrate the country through which you
pass; the delay of a day for this purpose will be amply repaid by the
information obtained.

10th. It may be desirable for the scientific gentlemen to make occa-
sional short excursions from your direct route- You will in that case
afford all facilities in your power to prosecute their researches.

11th. The information also expected from your party, will be names
of tribes, numbers, manners, customs, mode of living, habits, charac-
ter, disposition, and incidents that may occur to the party, as also the
timber, kinds and quality, soils, climate, &c. And if you meet with
any settlers, note their condition, whence from, &c.

12th. Should you visit any of the forts or stations of the Honourable
Hudson Bay Company, you will procure every information relative to
them, together with that of any missionaries, and Indian superstitions,
tales of adventures, and history, that may be well authenticated. The
notes and journals should be full, and so as to be well understood by
others without the necessity of explanation ; also a regular system of
writing them up before going to rest.

13th. Keep your party always armed, night and day; this must
never be omitted; a dog or two in your camp, besides the usual watch,
would be advisable.

All the gentlemen of your party will take turns in watching, and the

others also divided according to their numbers.

14th. You will study the safety as well as comfort of your party,
and will bear in mind particularly the instructions for the intercourse
with natives in my General Order of the 1st of May last.

The route to be pursued by the party, is up the Willamette Valley
in a southerly direction, crossing the Umpqua river and mountains,
thence south and west of the Shaste Mountains to latitude 42^ N.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

(Signed) Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To LiEUTj:NA?rr George F. Emmons,

U. S. Ship Peacock,

U, & Brig Porpoise,

Columbia River, Sept 1st, 1841.

Sir,'

As additional orders to those of the 15th June, you will observe the

following, viz. :

2T

518 APPENDIX.

Passed Midshipmen Eld and Colvocoressis, Messrs. Dana and
Brackenridge, Sergeant Stearns, and Henry Waltham, an ordinary
seaman, are added to your party.

You will leave your encampment in the Willamette at the earliest
possible hour.

Your route from thence will be through the Willamette Valley,
south towards California, and if possible west of the Shaste Moun-
tains, thence to strike the waters of the Sacramento, passing over the
head waters of various streams that empty into the ocean, viz., the
Umpqua, Klamet, and their branches.

Your party is now composed of twenty officers and men ; the addi-
'tion of five or six more good and trusty men, will, I think, be amply
sufficient to insure your safety, and enable you to proceed with all
despatch : any more than is necessary to insure safety, I view as likely
to retard your progress.

After you start, which must not be later than the 5th or 6th, I give
you twenty-five days to reach the forks of the Sacramento, where the
boats of the Vincennes or squadron will be on the 30th of September.

If you should fall upon the Sacramento, taking a more easterly route,

4

you wdll, if you find it difficult to proceed with your horses, abandon

them, and proceed in canoes down the river.

It is possible you may have to construct them ; and rough ones will

answer your purpose for navigating the river to its mouth, where you

will find the Vincennes at anchor-
In conversation, I have impressed upon you the necessity of not

losing time, and bear in mind that in order to gain this desirable end, it

will be necessary for you to press your party all you can. The saving

of a few horses must not impede your advance, particularly after you

have passed the hostile Indians.

I desire that you will endeavour to reach your destination in the

time specified, as it may save the party sent to meet you, and the

service, much delay.

The route you will probably follow, is that usually taken by the
Company's party ; but in your advance, when it is safe, it may be
desirable fi^r a part to deviate, for the purpose of gaining information.

Although your orders are marked " confidential," you will show them
to Passed Midshipmen Eld and Colvocoressis, that they maybe aw^are
of the duties to be performed in case of accident to you. And no
important hostile step will be taken unless through a council, in which
all the gentlemen accompanying you will join ; and you will be parti-
cularly careful that no act of aggrievance by youi party should bring
about such an event.

APPENDIX. 519

relation to intercourse with Indians,

May

And am, very respectfully,

Your obedient servant,

- 1

(Signed) Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition,

» ■ ■ -

p. S. I have placed a magnetic apparatus and needle in charge of
Mr. Eld, "with which he will make observations every fifty or sixty
miles on your route.

You will give Mr. Rodgers an order on me for the amount due him,
and inform him that his services are no longer required by you.

I am, respectfully, &c..

Lieutenant

(Signed) Charles W

Commanding Explori

U. S. Navy.

V.

Brig Porpo
Columbia £

Dear Sir,

Being obliged from the lateness of the season to abandon the inten-
tion I had of using the launch of the late United States ship Peacock

for the exploration of the coast to the southward of this river, I have
thought that I could not possibly place her to a better use than by
leaving her as a pilot-boat for communication with vessels off the
dangerous bar of this river, and to afford relief, by giving pilots and
assistance to those that are coming in, or in cases of accident.

It was my intention to have spoken to you on the subject before I
left Vancouver; but, among the many duties that occupied my atten-
tion, it was forgotten.

I have spoken to Mr. Burnie in relation to taking the launch in
charge for that purpose, but he has referred me to you, as he did not
feel authorized to assume the responsibility of acting for the Company.

1 will now state in a few words the charge I wish the Honourable
Hudson Bay Company to assume, viz. :

That the launch be kept at Fort George, under the special charge
of the agent of the Hudson Bay Company, for the sole purpose of
affording aid and relief to all vessels requiring assistance of any kind,
and to furnish pilots for entering the river, until called for by some

520 APPENDIX.

person authorized by me or the government of the United States, to

receive her.

In making this request,! am well aware of the desire the Honourable

Hudson Bay Company and its officers have always shown to do every

thing in their power to afford relief to those in distress, and the deep

feeling all attached to this squadron have evinced for the relief

extended to ourselves individually, during the late disaster; and it will

only be placing a suitable boat in the hands of the Company, in which

to afford relief more promptly. I therefore have little doubt but that

you will not object to assume the charge, and I assure you it will

afford me great satisfaction hereafter, to hear that she has been of any

use in saving lives or property.

The launch will be left with Mr. Burnie, with all her fixtures

complete.

I am, with much respect,

Yours, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To John M'La.ughlin, Esa.,

Chief Factor, H, B. C. Fort Vancouver.

■*v

VI.

tl. S, Brig Porpoise,

Ck)lumbia Rirer,

August 7th, 1841.

Sir,"

You are transferred to the Vincennes, now laying off and on the
river, in order to carry her to the bay of San Francisco; and you will,
without delay, proceed to that port, and report your arrival duly to
the Commandant of the Presidio as coming for the purpose of refresh-
ing the crew, and to await my arrival with the rest of the squadron.

After this ceremony is performed, you will proceed with the ship
to anchor near the island of Molate, in the northern branch of the
bay; when you will safely moor the Vincennes, leaving her in charge
of Lieutenant Carr, with one other lieutenant, Passed Midshipman
Davis, and three midshipmen, and proceed with six boats, including
your own, to examine the river Sacramento and its branches. This
you will do by running to its head waters, or as far as it is practicable
to pursue the river with a boat, and then bring the survey down from
the extreme point arrived at, where your latitude and longitude must
be carefully determined. This it is believed will be on the head

APPENDIX.

521

waters, called on the map "Pitt River." From this position and
others you will get a view of ihe different mountains, particularly the
Shaste Peak, the most southern one in the territory of Oregon.

Your attention, besides being directed to the rivers, will embrace
as much of the surrounding country as possible, in order to afford the
fullest information relative thereto, including soil, timber, &c.

On your arrival at the anchorage off Molate, you will select a
place, with Lieutenant Carr, for the observatory; and he will super-
intend the landing and putting up of the transit for observations of
moon culminating stars, and the rating of the chronometers. The
magnetic instrument of Gauss, and likewise the meteorological instru-
ments, will be put up, that the usual and regular observations may go
forward.

The preserved meats and cranberfies on board the Vincennes are
not to be used except for the sick, and no grog is to be served to the
crews of boats on surveying duty ; but they must be regularly supplied
with their rations.

The crews of boats on surveying excursions will have their allow-
- ance of beef and pork increased one-half.

The five boats that accompany you will be placed under charge
of Lieutenants Alden and Budd, Passed Midshipman Sandford, and
Midshipmen Hammersly and Elliott; and the launch, under charge of
Mr. Williamson, will also be taken to carry provisions and tents.

Observations for chronometers and equal altitudes will be taken the
day of your arrival, if possible, together with circummeridian obser-
vations, and transit bearings obtained, to ascertain the accuracy of
Beechey's survey, which you will apply to his chart, if two or three
can be obtained at or near the same spot (by looking at the chart
several meet ray eye near the island of Los Alcatrazes, with it and the
surrounding points and headlands) ; and it would be well to send an
officer (Mn Totten) there to obtain a round of angles, and at the same
time get observations for time.

Dr. Pickering will accompany the expedition of boats, and Lieutenant
Case, Acting Master Totten, and Passed Midshipman May, be employed

plotting.

I enclose a memorandum for Lieutenant Carr, which you will hand

to him when you leave the ship.

I am, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding- Exploring Expedition,
Lieut. Com. C. Ringgold,

VOL. y*

U. S. Brig Porpeise.

2T2

66

522

APPENDIX

VI I.

OFFICIAL STATEMENT OF THE POPULATION Of UPPER CALIFORNIA RESIDENT

1

IN EACH MISSION, IN 1828, AS MADE BY THE MISSIONARIES.

MISSIONS.

JURISDICTION OF SAN FRANCISCO.

PreMdio de San Francisco . .
Pueblo de San Jose ....

Mission of San Francisco Solano

de Rafael .....
San Francisco . . .
Santa Clara ....

San Jose

Santa Cruz ....

u

u

u

w

u

JURISDICTION OF MONTEREY.

Presidio de Monterey . . . .
Villa de Brancafbrte . . . .
Mission of San Juan Baptista •

San Carlos . . . .

u

u

u

u

de la Soledad
San Antonio

San Miguel
San Luis .

JURISDICTION OF SANTA BARBARA

Presidio de Santa Barbara . .
Mission of la Porissima ...
** Santa Inez ....

Santa Barbara . . .

San Buena Ventura .

San Fernando . . .

u

u

u

JURISDICTION OF SAN DIEGO.

Pueblo de la Reyna de los Angelos
Presidio de San Diego
Mission San Gabriel . .

u

n

u

San Juan Capista
San Luis Rey
San Diego . .

ToUl

Priests.

1
1
1

2

9

1

2
1
1
1

1

2
2

1

2
2
2
2

28

Men.

124

166
285
406

146
752

823

222

311

52
480
102
210
394
349
211

167
151
142

374
389
249

562
295
574
464
1,138
750

10,312

Women.

85

145

242
410

65
491
659

94

190
34

351

79

81

209

292

103

120
218
136
267
283

226

421
109

472

346
984
520

7,632

Boys.

89
103

88
105

13

68
100

30

110
27
85
34
23
51

46

8

162

47
82

51

66

177

213
115
171
69
328
162

2,623

Girls. Total.

73
110

90
106

13

60
145

20

97
17
71
21
20
17
61
7

164
34
96
70

59
181

202

89

171

70
288
146

2,538

371
524

705
1,027

236
1,371
1,767

366

708
130
987
236
333
711
748
329

613

450
456

762

791

833

1,388
608

1,388
947

2,788

1,578

23,105

I

Note. — Of the 23,105 inhabitants exhibited by this statement, 4342 are people of
character (gente de rason), distributed among the following places: — Presidio of San
Francisco, 371; town of San Jose of Guadaloupe, 524 ; presidio of Monterey, 708; villa
of Brancafbrte, 30; presidio of Santa Barbara, 613; town of Reyna de los Angelos, 1,388;
presidio of San Diego, 608: the remaining 18,763 are neophytes.

In the year 1840, the returns for the mission of Santa Clara, which mission was esta

bhshed in 1771, gave 86 baptisms, of whom 56 were white, and 30 neophytes. Marriages

were but 10, 5 of each ; and deaths 97, of whom 24 were whites, and 73 natives. Since

the fi>midation of the mission there have been 10,083 baptisms, 2,750 marriages, und
7,571 deaths.

APPENDIX. 523

VIII.

s

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Honolulu, Nov. 23d, 1841.

IR

i

I

I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your communica-
tion of this date, respecting a man belonging to this ship, by the name
of Lewis Herron. In replying to it, I would in the first place make
known to you the desire I have always evinced, and still do, to cause
all under my command to respect the laws of the Islands, and to suffer
the penalties when infringed, provided a proper trial has been had.
Such not having been the case in the present instance, in my opinion,
I deemed it a duty I owe to those under my command, and all other
American citizens, as well as to your government, to interpose, and
prevent punishments being inflicted.

The case as I view it is this, viz. : Lewis Herron, during his liberty
on shore, quietly desires to enter a public house, and is met at the door
by a man with a cutlass, who refuses him admittance, and after a little
altercation, he is assaulted and wounded in the leg with the cutlass.
This excites his passion, (as well it might,) and he takes the weapon
from the aggressor and inflicts several blows on him with its flat side;
finds himself attacked by several; inflicts a wound, and is found in
possession of the weapon by the police ; he is apprehended and taken
to the fort.

The next day he is brought before you ; you hold an examination,
without the formality of a trial, receive testimony (not on oath), and
pass sentence on him, unknown to any one, to receive one hundred
lashes, and pay a fine of fifty dollars.

Application is made to you by my order, for a trial by jury, which
I was informed you engaged to give the next morning; to my great

h

surprise, the first news I learn is, that you have inflicted twenty-eight
lashes at eight o'clock, and intend to subject him to seventy-two more,

and a fine of fifty dollars.

Now it strikes me, that the magnitude of the punishment presented
by the laws ought to have caused you to order a trial by jury, which,
according to treaty, is fully acknowledged, and then the person would
have had full opportunity for a fair and impartial trial.

It appears most clearly to my mind, that you lost sight of the dis-
tinction of using weapons to assault and with criminal intention, and
their accidental use in defence, or from provocation.

It appears to be very clear that you were of opinion that he did

524 APPENDIX,

not carry them, had not brought them, or was guilty of a breach of the
first part of the law, viz., carrying unlawful w^eapons, for you sentenced
another who made the first attack upon him ; and equally clear that
he did not inflict any wound until he was assaulted by several, and in
self-defence, and had received great provocation to use the weapon he
had taken from the man who attacked him. This might have occurred
to any one walking peaceably in the street, aud yet you adjudge him
guilty of the worst motives, in having in his possession the weapon,
and order him to receive, after a very informal hearing, the severest
penalty of the law; and that too, after his trial had been demanded by
jury, and you had been understood to grant the request. Is this right?
I think not. Under these circumstances, I felt it my duty to interpose,
and protect him from a farther infliction of lashes, which you now
inform me is remitted ; but that his fine is still to be paid. ;

In demanding the man, I would have you distinctly to understand,
that it is not my desire to screen him from proper or legal punish-?
ment, provided he is found guilty of an offence by a tribunal invested
with power to try the case ; but I object to any informal proceedings,
particularly where an ignominious and severe punishment is to be
inflicted. ^

The case, as I now view it, stands thus : the man has received
twenty-eight lashes by your authority, and is required to pay fifty
dollars, without being allowed a proper trial, or such as he was justly
entitled to, and was claimed for him, and at which testimony would
have been brought to show that he was, prior to, and at the time of
entering the premises, peaceably inclined, with no weapons on him ;
when he was assauhed by one carrying unlawful weapons, and
resents it; unfortunately proves the most powerful, and gets pos-
session of the weapon ; is attacked by others, whom he defends him-
self against, and is then taken and punished, without an opportunity
of bringing proof of his good character, which there are many to
vouch for; and suffers part of a punishment that would be inflicted on
an assassin.

The punishment already inflicted prevents me from soliciting a
new trial ; but I do, and must claim that a further hearing be had, in
the same informal manner, to examine if his intentions were criminal,
by making an unprovoked attack on the persons, and not one of self-
defence, and under the circumstances excusable, before I can consent
to the payment of a fine, w^hich I cannot but view as excessive.
■ In being brought to this conclusion, I must again impress upon
you, that it will always be my desire to show the utmost deference to
your laws, and to cause them to be observed by all those under my

-A.i^ dj:

APPENDIX. 625

command, and that I disclaim all intention of interfering with their
execution ; but while I make this avowal, I "must at the same time,
as I feel myself in duty bound, state, that I object to any informal or
arbitrary punishment being inflicted upon any under my command,
without the due observance of the forms provided for by treaty
stipulations.

I am, &c.,

+

To GovKRNOR Kekuanaoa,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Oahu.

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528

APPENDIX.

IX.

Continued.

STATISTICS OF SCHOOLS

STATIONS.

SCHOOLS.

TEACH-
ERS.

SCHO-
LARS.

READERS.

WRITERS.

ARITH-
METIC.

GEOGRA-
FHT.

HAWAII.

■

HUo ....

60

120

2,500

Waimea , . .

22

22

1,000

560

250

560

100

Kohala, . « •

32

59

1,100

302

85

223

Kailua , . •

16

26

1,070

296

55

269

55

Kealakekua

J

34

34

1,837

522

80

356

50

1

MAUI.

1

Hana . • • •

29

29

1,477

523

Wailuku • •

39

60

2,214

750

604

Lahaina . • «

16

35

1,120

584

156

363

209

Kuanapali . .

6

6

274

HOLOEAl . .

9

10

1,030

372

27

148

55

OAHU.

1

1

Kaneohe ♦ .

9

9

300

1

Honolulu I.

13

15

859

327

60

235

124

II. .

4

9

470

200

i

Ewa ....

16

13

550

1

1
1

Waialua . .

13

14

757

339

145

1

257

67

KAUAI.

*

Waioli . . .

14

18

467

200

53

178

44

Lihue , , ♦

6

6

281

138

!

Koloa • . .

4

5

226

93

50

51

Waimea , .

15

15

502

308

200

300

85

Total . .

357

505

18,034

1

5,514

1

961

3,546

789

X.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, Nov. 28th, 1841

Sir,'

You are about to explore the range of islands and shoals to the
northward and westward of the Sandwich Islands, in company with
the Oregon.

This finished, you w^ill proceed towards the coast of Japan, through
the usual cruising-ground of our whalers.

Your route is particularly pointed out on your charts, which you
wnll receive herewith. There are many dangerous shoals and reefs
said to exist, and of which w^e have little accurate knowledge.

APPENDIX.

529

The course pointed out is intended to lead you, by the time you
reach the coast of Japan, near the South Island. "

You will pay particular attention to trying the current daily, if
possible'; and -when running at night, in order to avoid passing over
banks, &c., you will get a cast of the patent lead every hour, about
forty fathonas up and down. This naay be easily done, sailing at the
rate of seven knots.

Your dip and intensity apparatus will be used at every island you
can find at one hundred and fifty miles apart. I wish a series to be
carried across this ocean.

You will pay particular attention to your sailing and keeping toge-
ther ; and when the weather proves fine, spread so as to cover as much
space as possible, keeping two good men on the look-out.

There are several reefs lying off Gardner's Island, on its north as

well as its south side. *

In the vicinity of shoals, or where they are supposed to exist, you
will not run at night, taking care not to fall to leeward of their locality.

Any islands or reefs fallen in with must be carefully surveyed to
ascertain the extent of their dangers, and you will ascertain also if they
aflford any supplies of wood and water, whereat a vessel might recruit.

Every three days you will get a comparison with the Oregon's
chronometers ; and your positions, together with courses, must be repre-
sented on your charts.

After you have reached the locality of the islands of Todos los

Santos and that called South Island on the chart of Arrowsmith, you
will pass directly into the China seas by Formosa Passage, making the
north Bashee, and then proceed direct to Singapore, where you will
arrive without fail in the first week of February, and there await me

or orders.

There are many shoals and reefs which it is impossible for me to

draw your attention to particularly; but I desire that you will let no

opportunity pass of gaining information relative to every thing that

may lay in your route towards the coast of Japan, and that may be

useful to our whalincr interests.

Wish

I am, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition

Lieut. Com, C. Ringgold,

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

VOL. V.

2U

67

530

APPENDIX.

XI

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, Nov. 29th, 1841

s

IR

You will proceed to Strong's and Ascension Island, survey their
harbours, obtain all the information in your power, and at the former

Wa

Manilla

dino, where you will arrive without fail by the 10th of January, 1842.

You will run for all islands and reefs lying in your track, and obtain
all the information in your power, relative to the supplies they afford ;
inquire into the character of the white men residing on them, and
collect as many curiosities as possible. .

You will be particular in your intercourse with the people of Strong's
and Ascension Islands, as they are reported to be in possession of a
bad set of runaway white men.

All the information you can obtain must be carefully noted.

I shall expect you to execute the duties committed to you with

Manilla

but this will make no difference in your operations.

Manilla

Wishin

cruise.

Actino-Mastkr S. R. Knox,

I am, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition*

U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish*

APPENDIX.

531

XII.

COMPAEATIVE STATEMENT OF EXPORTS FROM MANILLA DURING THE YEARS

1840 AND 1841.

r Europe . .
Sugar . , . . • J Umted States

[^ Bombay, &c,

Europe . .
Hemp . . * . . { United States

Singapore, &c.

Europe . .

Coffee ^ United States

Sydney • •

Europe . .

Indigo ^ United States

Singapore, &c.

Tortoise-shell

Europe . .
United States
Singapore, &c.

Mother-of-pearl shells I g^g^-

Hats

-?
*'

\

Europe . ,
United States
Singapore, &c,

Europe . .
United States
Singapore, &-c.

119,855 piculs,
53,100

45,000
33,000

u

u

250,955

U

15,510 «

68,280 "

83,790

2,854 "■
530 «

3,384 "

1,185 qaintals
2,873 «

4,058 "

1,365 catties.

874 *«

2,239 •*

2,840 piculs.
52 «

2,892 «

8,110 hats,
3,860 »
10,610 »

22,580

U

6,071 piculs.
910 "

6,281

I*

1841.

98,000 piculs.
49,600
45,000
43,000

235,600 »

C(

i4

18,500

62,700

5,800

87,000

2,027 "
137 «

1,726
3,890

U

3,600 quintals,
3,500
300 "

((

7,400

t(

1,671 catties
1,540 »
2,330 "

5,541

tt

1,894 piculfl.
287 "

2,181

u

4,540 hats.
7,614 «
36,713 »

48,867 "

4,549 picul&

712 «
4,380 "

9,641

^_

532 APPENDIX

XI 1 1.

^i>^l?j.^ oLui

I, Mohamed, Sultan of Sooloo, for the purpose of encouraging trade
with the people of the United States of America, do promise hereby and
bind myself that I will afford full protection to all vessels of the United
States, and their commanders and crews, visiting any of the islands of
my dominions, and they shall be allowed to trade on the terms of the
most favoured nation, and receive such provisions and necessaries as
they may be in want of.

2dly, In case of shipwreck or accident to any vessel, I will afford
them all the assistance in my power, and protect the persons and
property of those wrecked, and afford them all the assistance in my
power for its preservation and safe-keeping, and for the return of the
officers and crews of said vessels to the Spanish settlements, or
wherever they may wish to proceed.

3dly. That any one of my subjects who shall do any injury or harm
to the commanders or crews belonging to American vessels, shall
receive such punishment as his crime merits.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal, in presence
of the datus and chiefs at Soung, island of Sooloo.

February 5th, 1842.

[l. S.]

i

Wj^w>^

Witnesses.

[l. S-]

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

William L. Hudson,

Late commanding U. S. Ship Peacock.

R. R. Walbron,

Purser, U. S. Exploring Expedition.

APPENDIX. 533

XIV.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

s

Singapore Roads, Feb. 26th, 1842.

IR

After leaving the Straits of Sunda, you will be governed by the
following instructions, viz. :

You will proceed to the westward across the Indian Ocean, passing
five or six hundred miles to the southward of the island of Panaw,
double the Cape of Good Hope, and visit the island of St, Helena, where
you will lose no time in filling up with water, and proceed from thence
to Rio de Janeiro, at which place you will make experiments for dip
and intensity, on the island of Enxados, and fakfe on board a sufficient
quantity of bread for the passage to New York.

When you arrive at New York, you will cause all journals, memo-
randums, remarks, writings, drawings, sketches and paintings, as well
as all specimens of any kind, to be delivered to you; which, together
with your own journal, you will have carefully boxed up and sealed in
the presence of two commissioned officers ; marked Exploring Expe-
dition, and hold them subject to my orders.

On your arrival at New York, you will find orders from me, or, if I
should not have arrived, you will report by letter to the Honourable
Secretary of the Navy, sending him a copy of this order.

You are supplied with Six's self-registering thermometer, with which
you will obtain the temperature daily, at the depth of one hundred
fathoms, when your morning sights are taken; at which time you will
note in tables the latitude and longitude, the current (velocity and
direction), masthead temperature, deck temperature, and temperature
at the depth of one hundred fathoms, and at the surface.

You will examine all shoals, banks, and positions marked "doubt-
ful,'' that may lay in or near your track*

At St- Helena, you will leave letters informing me of your proceed-
ings, and you will lose no time in making your w^ay to your final port
of destination, as it is all-important you should reach the United States
at as early a day as possible.

On dropping your anchor in New York Bay, you will pay to each
of your crew ten dollars, and suffer them to leave the vessel at once,
as their time will have expired; and retain only as many as will volun-
teer to take charge of the brig.

In the event of my arriving before you, orders will meet you for the
disposition of the journals, &c,, of which you will take particular care.

2U2

534 APPENDIX.

placing them in charge of a suitable person for safe-keeping, until far-
ther orders from the Department, or myself.

In passing around the Cape of Good Hope, you will keep a good
look-out for ice, as it is sometimes seen at this season.

The enclosed notice of an island off the Cape of Good Hope, will
claim your attention ; and if possible you may pass over or near the
spot, in order to verify or disprove its existence in that position.

Let your stay at St. Helena be as short as possible ; Horsburgh's

directions relative to making and anchoring at the island, are good.

I herewith enclose you the error and rate of your chronometer,
obtained by comparison with this ship's standard, which has been
performing very accurately since we left Oahu.

Wishing you a safe and pleasant passage* and a happy meeting with
your friends,

I am, &c.,

Charles Wilkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Lieut, Com, C. Ringgold,

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

P. S. You will make magnetic experiments at the island of St.
Helena-

Similar orders to Lieutenant-Commandant Carr of the Oregon ; in a
postscript to which, he was required to make experiments for intensity
with Gauss's magnetic instrument, at the island of Enxados.

APPENDIX.

535

X

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536

APPENDIX.

X V I.

TABLE

THE VALUE OF BKITISII A^^D OF OTHER COINS CURRENT AT THE

ISLAND OF ST. HELENA, AS ESTABLLSHED BY A PROCLAMATION, DATED ST
NA, 29 th FEBRUARY, 1836.

r

SORT OF
COIN,

Gold

NAME OF EACH COIN.

Doubloon

OF WHAT COUNTRY.

Joe

Blohur • . . .

Mohur

Moid ore, . .
Sovereign .

Napoleon , , .

Ten Guilder . ,

Silver

Louis d'Or .
Venetian . .
Star Pagodoe

Porto Nova pagodoe
Duccatoon . , ,

Crown

Shilling . , , •

Spain, and South American
States,

N. B. — Half, quarter, eighth,
and sixteenth, of proportion-
ate value.

Portugal,

Bengal (having the star), . .

N. B. — Half and quarter, of pro-
portionate value.

Bombay (and every other Mo-
hur), . . . , ^ . . ,

Portugal,

England,

N, B. — Half, of proportionate

value.
France,

N, B. — Double Napoleon, of

double value.
Holland,

N. B. — Half, of proportionate
value.

France,

Venice,

East Indies,

N. B.— Double Star Pagodoe, of

double value.
East Indies
Holland, .
N. B.—

value.
England,
N. B.-^

value.

Value of each
coin in Bri-

tish Sterling

at St.Helena.

Half, of proportionate

Hdlf, of proportionate

3 Guilder • , ,

Dollar . , , ,

England, *-.•..,,
N.B. — Half; quarter, and eighth,

of proportionate value.
Holland,

United States, South American
States, and Spain (all alike),

N, B. — Half, quarter, eighth,
and sixteenth, of proportion-
ate value, except the latter,
which loses the fraction,
when passed separately.

Value of each

coin reduced

into U. S,

Money.

1

£ s. d.

3 6 0

1 13 3
1 13 3

1 10 2
16 0
10 0

15 7

15 7

15

7

9

4

7

3

5 6
5 4

5 0

1 0

4 8

4 4

$

c.

15 23-07

7 67-30
7 67-30

6 96-15
6 00
4 61-53

3 59-61

3 59-61

3 59-61
2 15-38
1 67-30

1 26-92
1 23-07

1 15-38

23.07

1 07-70

1 00

APPENDIX.

537

X V L — Continued.

SORT OF NAME OF EACH COIN,

COIN.

Silver

t

Half Star Pagodoe

Colonial Piece . .

Sicca Rupee . .

Rupee , . . .

Guilder
5 Franc
2 Franc
1 Franc

Copper^ Half.penny

Cent

OF WHAT COUNTRY,

East Indies,

N. B. — Quarter, of proportion-
ate value.

England, , ,

N. B. — Half and quarter, of pro-
portionate value.

Beng-al (having the star), , .

N. B, — Half and quarter, of pro-
portionate value, except the
latter, wliich loses the frac-
tion when passed separately.

Bombay (and other parts of
East Indies), ......

N. B. — ^Half and quarter, of
proportionate value, but lose
the fraction when passed se-
parately,

Holland, • ,

France,

u

N. B. — Half franc, of propor-
tionate value.

England, and various other
countries.

United States,

Value ofeach
coin in Bri-
tish Sterling
at St.Helena.

£ 8, d.
3 8

2 4

2 1

1 11

1 6
4 0

1 8

10

i

Value ofeach

coin reduced

into U. S.

Money.

w c»

84-61

53.84

48-07

44-23

3461
92-52
38-46
19-23

01

01

N, B. — The American eagle ($10), half eagle (S5), and quarter eagle ($2 50), are not
current at St, Helena, as a legal tender, nor is the dime or half dime.

No paper bank note will pass, except that of the Bank of England.

None of the silver coins of Portugal or the Brazils, nor of the island of Ceylon, nor
the German crown or Austrian dollar, are current.

No other moneys but those enumerated in the above table are recognised as a legal
tender at St. Helena.

I

VOL. V.

68

538

APPENDIX.

XVII.

LONDON

PORTS VISITED BY THE EXPLORING SQUADRON^ MADE UP TO 1842.

PORTS.

Amount realized in dol-
lars per jCIOO sterling
exchange on London,

Rate of Exchange on the
United States.

Value of Silver
Dollars.

Madeira . . .

XlOO sells for $460

10 to 12 per cent disc.

Par.

Rio de Janeiro .

100 " •• 440

12 to 14 «

M

Valparaiso . .

100 " « 520

Par.

U

Lima • . • .

100 " " 510

(1

M

Sydney, N. S. W.

100 " " 480

10 per cent. disc.

M

California . • .

100 " •♦ 450

12 « "

M

Sandwich Islands

100 " « 430

12 to 15 per cent. disc.

a

Manilla • . .

100 " •* 450

10 " "

<«

Singapore . • •

100 « " 450

10 » "

M

Cape Town . . \

100 " ** 444

10 « «

r

u

St. Helena » .

100 » " 444

10 u u

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c£ ^ iz; ;?; > ;?; Iz; ^ ;^ :^; P5 ^

ed

Number of beats
of Pulse in a mi-

nute.

Circumference of

Head,

»o o< c^ -"^i* t- o -^

o\ a\ C=i Q\ Q\ Ql Q\

Length of Foot.

.3

c«

CT^'HC^

HCTPCWt

O C^ O O OS

Length of Hand.

Number of Teeth.

Length of Collar
Bone.

Length of Arm*

c^cocococ»ococococqcocococ<co-hi-hc^ci

Lower Line.

.S

Upper Line.

•

a

« t^ 00 t* -"d*

cDr-wit*t*cDco»n^"^t»

Front Line.

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Facial Angle.

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X.

2V

GENERAL OBEX.

Abernethj-, Mr,, kindness of^ iv. 351
Accraiolis, A., i. 13
Acrostichuin Grande, ii. 181

Adventure Islets, i. 136

Adams, Governor, iv. 96

Adams, Point, iv. 322

Agricultural Society, N. S. W., ii. 183, 206

Agriculture, Santa Clara, v. 207 ; Luzon, v.

283
Ague, Oregon v, 238
Aguillas Bank, current on, v, 419
Ahii Isl:md, i. 336; iv. 263
Aiva Islands, iii. 170
Aimable Josephine, brig, iii. 293
Alderson, Mr. George, i. liiS
Aldunate, General, i. 223
Alpamarca, i. 261
Aliko, the Pilot, iii. 249
Alphabet, Feejee, iii. 325
Alexander, Hev. Mr., iv. 69
Alvaradc, General, v. 165
Aliza, Seizor, v. 204
Allshouso, Joseph, v. 255
Ainancaes, Valley of, i. 244
Amusements, Chili, i. 170; Tahiti, ii.

25; Samoa, ii. 135; Feejee, iii. 331;

Honolulu, iv. 58; Kingsmill, v. 100;

California, v. 175 — 195
Ambatiki Island, iii. 184
American boat-builders, iv. 337, 342
Antarctic cruise, plans for first, i.

second^ ii. 281 ; continent, ii, 316, 325
Ambassadors, Feejee, iii. 81
Ambau, iii. 110; Queen ofj iii, 192; bay

of, iii. 293; burnt, iii. 361
Andulong, ascent of, iii. 50
Angasa Ireland, iii. 168
Angau Island, iii. 186
Anganga Island, iii. 248

120;

Anderson, Mr,, iv. 305 ; v, 123

Anderson, John, missing, v. 56

Antique, bay of, v. 325

Aorai Peak, ii. 5, 52

Apia, harbour of, ii. 88; storm at, v. 19;

trading, v. 21 ; deserters, v. 25; island

of, V. 69
Apolima Island, ii. 107
Apple-Tree Cove, iv. 303
Apamama Island, v, 64
Army, Brazil, i. 85; Chili, i. 204; Feejee,

iii. 79 ; Philippines, v. 292
Ariel Rocks, i. 94
Arcquipa, i. 296
Arms, Samoa, ii. 151; Feejee, iii. 343;

Drummond's Island, v. 48 ; Kingsinill,

V, 47 ; Sacramento, v. 185
ArgoReef, iii. 170
Arro, attack upon, iii, 274
Aratica Island, party landed upon, iv. 264 ;

return to, iv. 267

Archangel Island, iv. 266

Arrow-root, iv. 214
Arguello, General, v. 162
Armenians, v. 393
Arabs, v. 394
Ashantees, i. 56
Aspland's Island, i. I36
Asau Inlet, ii. 108
Astrolabe Caual, ilL 6
Asaua Islands, expedition to, iii. 247
Astronomy, Hawaiian, iv. 42
Astoria, arrival at, iv. 320 ; description of,
iv- 320; forests, v. 116; fishery, v. 116
Ata, ii. 95

Aurora Australis, i, 151 ; ii. 322, 328, 360
Auckland Islands, ii. 351; botany of, ii- 352
Australian Club, ii. 161
Australia, climate, ii. 175; natives, ii. 184,

(543)

544

GENERAL INDEX.

255; customs, ii. 186, 195; music, ii.

190; weapons, ii. 191 ; canoes, ii. 193 ;

religion, ii. 197
Australian Stream, v. 473
Avia, island of, iii. 179
Ava drinking, iii. 115, 123, 157

Baily, Francis, i. 145

Bacon, Passed Midshipman, i. 207
Ball's Pyramid, ii. 160

Bathurst, town ofj ii, 259
Hay of Islands, ii. 371

Bateman, David, death of, iii. 66
Baino Harbour, iii. 181
Ba, iii. 209

Barbers, Feejee, iii. 75

Barclay de Tolly, island of^ iv. 265

Bachelet, Rev. Mr., iv. 349

Babcock, Dr., iv. 353

Bailey, Dr., and Mrs., iv, 362

Barometer, accident to, iv. 429

Baker's Bay, iv. 494; v. 114

Barclay, Dr., v. 136

Badger, v. 193

Balingtang, straits of, v. 269

Baring-'s Island, v. 271

Banham Island, v. 271

Banca, Manilla, v. 302

Banajoa, ascent of, v- 313; height, v. 314

Baia, v. 315

Banos, Brazil, i. 263 ; Luzon, v. 281, 315

Bajows, v. 356

Balabac, straits of, v. 358 — 365

Balambangan Island, v. 353

Balestier, Mr., v. 373

Banca, atraits of, v. 413; mines of, v. 414

Bance, Commander, R. N., v. 421

Baxter, accident to, iii. 233 ; death of, iii. 303

Bartlelt, Mr. Eduin, i. 307

Bean, Mr., i. 23

Benguclan, i. 59

Bevan, Mr. R., i. 262

Bermudez, General, i. 288

Bcllinghansen's Island, ii. 63

Belcher, Captain, iii. 182

Bcthune's Point, iii. 125

Bear, grisly, v. 184

Bernadino, straits of, v. 272

Bilocheros, i. 177

Bi^gs, Mr., i. 253

Birds, New Zealand, ii. 413

Biche de mar, iii. 219
Biva Island, iii. 314
Birnie Island, iii. 370

Birnie, Mr., kindness of, iv. 320, 494
BiHy Bruce, iv. 332 ; v. 135
Bishop, Rev. Mr., iv. 80
Bishop's Island, v. 62

Blanchard, Mr., i. 187

Blanco, Admiral^ i. 213

Blue Mountains, N. S. W., ii. 257 ; Oregon,

iv. 396
Blackfish, iv. 221
Blaxland, Mr. John, ii. 268
Black, Mr., iv. 369
Blackler, Mr, S. R., ii. 6
Bonavista, i. 28
Bom Felix Shoal, i. 28
Bonetta Rocks, i. 28
Bouvet's Sandy Isle, i. 38
Botofogo, i. 65
Botany, Auckland Isles, i. 352; Samoan,

ii. 119; New South Wales, ii. 180;

Hawaiian, iv. 283 ; Duke of York's,

V. 9 ; Singapore, v. 379
Boat-builders, iv. 337, 342
Bowditch Island, v. 3 — 10; canoes, v. 11;

native, v. 12; drill, v. 17
Bodega, v. 179

Boundary Range, v. 236

Bourke, Sir Richard, ii. 207

Boring party, operations of, iv. 267

Brazil, character, i. 79 ; political state, i. 80;

courts, i. 83 ; army, i. 85 ; navy, i. 85 ;

schools, i. 85
Brett, Cape, iii. 3
Bread, baking, iv. 409 ; supply ofj v. 144

Bridgeman's Island, i. 136
Brisbane, Sir Thomas, ii. 206

Brook, Dr., ii. 247

Broom Road, ii. 31

Braiding, Feejee mode of, iii. 338

Brigade, departure of, iv. 378

Brook's Island, v. 4

Brooke, Mr., v. 360

Brahmins, v. 3D0

Brinsmadc, Mr., iii. 374

Burden, H. J. Esq., i. 6, 24

Bulnes, General, i, 249

Bulimus Shougii, ii. 395

Burton, Judge, charge to jury, ii. 229

Burial alive, escape from, iii. 174

Budd's Island, iii. 302

Bute Prairie, iv. 415

Budd, Lieutenant, iv. 245

Buckskin, mode of preparing, iv. 317

Barnham, Mr,, kindness of, iv. 67
BuU-bait, San Francisco, v. 199
Burial ground, Oregon, v. 219
Buffalo, Luzon, v. 284
Byron, Lord, iv, 7

Carved Planks, Oregon, v, 128

Casa Blanca, i. 178

Canta, i. 256

Casa Cancha, i. 259

Callao, population, i. 235 ; earthquakes, i.

235 ; position of, i. 309
Carlshoff Island, i. 333; formation of, i. 334
Carving, New Zealand, ii. 385

GENERAL INDEX.

545

Camden, town of, ii. 265
Carr, Cape, ii. 321=
Calvert, Rev. Mr., iii. 170, 173
Caves, Oahu, iv. 84
Cargill, Rev. Mr., iii. Ill, 191
Cannibalism, Fcejee, iii. 101, 234
Camboy's Island, iv, 265
Cash's Island, iv. 277

Calendar, Feejee, iii. 341; Hawaiian, iv.
42 ; Indian, iv. 450

Canal dc Arro, iv. 484

Canoes, Wytoohee, i. 319 ; Paumotu, 1. 327;
Tahiti, ii. 21 ; Samoa, ii. 143; Feejee,
iii. 345; Northwest Coast, iv. 300;
mode of repairing, iv. 381 ; Bowditch
Island, V. 11 ; Drummond's Island, v,
49 ; Kingsmill, v. 94

Casenove, Chief, iv. 370

Cattle, Hawaii, iv. 200

Cattle-pits, Hawaii, iv. 204

Ca?:tle, Mr., accident to, iv. 206

Cascades, Columbia, iv- 380

Carr, Lieutenant, v. 253

Caldera, Fort, v. 328

Campo Santo, Manilla, v. 303

California, v. 151; climate, v, 154; rivers
V. 157; bays, v. 158; productions, v
159; fishery, v. 160; trade, v. 161
history, v. 162; revolution, v. 165
Indians, v. 172; amusements, v. 175
195; character, V. 176; birds, v. 183
beasts, v. 193; society, v. 194

Caffres, v. 433 ; character of, i. 62

Callapuya Indians, v. 223

Capones, Cape, v. 270

Cagayan Sooloo, islands of, v, 357

Cape Town, v. 422; government, v.

police, V. 426; laws, v. 426; taxes, v.
427 ; revenue, v. 428

Cape of Good Hope, v. 413, 420; cultiva-
tion, V. 429 ; commerce, v. 430; slaves,

V. 431

Character, Brazil, i. 79 ; natives, Samoa, u.
126; New Zealand, ii. 398; Feejee,
iii. 79; Hawaiian, iv. 45; California,
V. 17G ; Sooloo, v. 342 ; Caffres, v. 433

Chase, Mr., i. 198

Chicrine, i. 273

Chili, i. 165; amusements, i. 170; climate,
u 184 ; earthquakes, i. 199 ; religion,
L 200 ; commerce, i. 201 ; population,
i. 202 ; government, i. 203 ; army and
navy, i. 204 ; political history, i. 211

Chatham Island, ii, 404

Charley, Chief, ii. 406

Chain-Gang, Sydney, ii. 215

Chiefs of Tahiti, ii. 18

Chichia, iii. 176

Christening, Feejee, iii. 94

Chicobea, iii. 303, 376

VOL. V. 2 V 2 69

424;

Chiefs' council, Oahu, mode of conducting,

iv. 9 ; school, Oahu, iii. 388
Chief's wife, murder of, iv, 29 ; trial of the

murderers, iv. 30 ; their sentence, iv. 30
Chimikainc, iv. 438
Chickeeles river, iv. 313 ; v. 129 ; Indians,

iv. 313, 373

Chinook lodge, iv. 322; Indians, v. 118;

religion, v. 119
Child's head, distortion of, iv. 388

Champooing, iv, 347

Chronometer, anecdote of, iv. 373

Chico, Colonel, v. 164

Church discipline, Luzon, v. 315

Chinese, v, 382 ; temple, v. 383; celebration,
V. 384 ; processions, v. 386 ; burial-
places, V. 394; junk, v. 398

Clermont de Tonncrre Island, i. 311

Clendon, Mr. J. R., ii. 375

Claims, New Zealand, ii. 377

Cloudy Bay, ii. 407

Clifton, town of, ii. 266

Clown, Feejee, iii. 188

Club Dance, Feejee, iii. 190

Climate, Rio Negro, i. 100; Chili, i. 184,
203 ; Peru, i. 248 ; Tutuila, ii. 81 ; Sa-
moa, ii. 118; Australia, ii. 175; New
Zealand, ii, 410 ; Tonga, iii. 32 ; Fee-
jee, iii. 321 ; Kauai, iv. 71 ; Waialua,
iv. 76; Kona, iv. 95; Hawaiian Islands,
iv. 284 ; Dalles, iv. 387 ; ColvUle, iv.
445; Oregon, iv. 454; Kingsmill, v.
105 ; California, v. 155 ; Sooloo, v. 356;
Singapore, v. 408

Clatsop, iv. 322
Clarendon, ship, v. 418

Coffee, Rio de Janeiro, i, 53; Hawaii, iv.
208; Manilla, v. 289

Corrobory Dance, ii. 1

Congo, i. 60

Corcovado Mountain, i. 65, 74
Courts, Brazil, i. 83 ; Tahiti, ii. 50 ; New
South Wales, ii. 205, 237 ; martial, iv.

57
Coan, Rev. Mr., iv. 209

Commerce, M^ideira, i. 17; Chili, i. 201;

Peru, i. 303 ; Tahiti, ii. 35 ; Papieti,

ii. 48; New South Wales, ii. 273;

Hawaiian Group, iv. 261 ; Manilla, v.

302 ; Sooloo, v. 347 ; Singapore, v. 399 ;

Cape of Good Hope, v. 430
Cornwallis Island, i. 139 ; v. 267, 27]

Cood, Mr., i, 165

Cordilleras Mountains, i. 184

Concon, valley of, i. 187

Corpus Christi, celebration of, i. 243

Coral Islands, section of, i. 316; theory,

iv. 268
Convicts, New South Wales, n. 208 ; Smga.

pore, V. 391

546

GENERAL INDEX.

317;

Coal pits, New South Wales, ii. 246
Conncl, Paildy, his history, iii. 68; his death,

iiL 361
Corodowdow, iii, 144
Cook, Captain, monument to, iv. 93
Costume, Indian, iv. 39 S
Coronganga, town ofj iii. 124
Concomely's tomb, iv. 3:31
Cornelius;, cliief, iv. 439
Colville, arrival at, iv. 440 ; climate iv. 443 ;

position, iv. 454
Columbia River, voyage to, iv. 293 ; bar of,

iv. 293 ; river, iv. 319, 430 ; ascent of,

iv. 371
Coffin Rock, iv. 335 ; v. 142

Comparison, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea,
iv. 160

Complaints against crew, iv. 231
Cowhtz, farm of, iv. 315 ; river, iv.
ascent of, iv. 372

Condition of men, iv, 147
Constitution, Hawaii, iv. 21

Conduct of the foreign residents, Honolulu,

iv. 7
Coffin, Mount, v. 121
Columbia, barque, v. 145
Colorado River, v. 182
Cotton, Manilla, v. 289
Cock-fighting, Manilla, v. 300
Coin, Singapore, v. 392
Cosmones River, v. 247
Corrcgidor Island, v, 270
Copper Island, v. 269
Cochin China ships, v. 397
Coustantia, vineyard of, v. 433
Current Log, i. 4
Curral, descent of, i. 12
Culnai, 1. 258

Currency Lass, schooner, iii. 149
Cunningham, murder of, iii. 225
Customs, Samoa, ii. 137, 147; Australia, ii.
195; Tonga, iii. 17, 26; Feejee, iii.
73 ; Indians, iv. 456, 454 ; Sooloo, v.
343; Dyacks, v. 361
Current, Aguillas Bank, v. 419 ; ocean, v,
457, 467 ; Labrador, v. 459 ; Rennell,
v. 463 ; Equatorial, v. 466; Patagonian,
V. 468; Australian, v. 472
Cunningham, Mr., ii. 166
Craven, Lieutenant, i. 206
Crime, New South Wales, ii. 231
Croker, Captain, death of, iii. 302
Crater, Kilauea, iv. 102
Crew, resliipment of, iii. 385
Creole Creek, v. 222

Darling, Sir Ralph, ii. 206
Dawson, Mr., ii. 206, 248

Dances, Samoa, ii. 134 ; Corrobory, ii. 188;
Feejee, iii, 190

David Ogilby, attempt to capture brig, iii.
295

Dalles, mission, iv. 382; fishing huts, iv.

383 ; fishing, iv. 386 ; climate, iv. 387 ;

accident at, iv. 403
Dawson, the guide, iv. 202
Dairy, Nisqually, iv. 307

Day, Mr., v. 27

Datu Muln, v, 334

Deserta Shoal, i. 8

Deception Island, i. 143

Devil's towns, Tonga, ii. 82

Dean's Island, ii. 63

Deception Passage, iv, 482

De Fuca's Straits, iv. 296 ; Pillar, iv. 483

De Peyster's Group, v. 40 ; natives of, v.
40 ; dress, v. 42

Destruction Isle, iv. 295

De Langle, massacre of, ii. 73

Deborah, her residence, iv. 68

De Haven, Lieutenant, his arrival at Gray's
Harbour, v. 131

Destruction River, v. 240

Diego Ramieres, island of, i. 149

Dips, magnetic, ii, 290

Discovery, New South Wales, ii. 201 ; Ant-
arctic Continent, ii. 292

Disappointment Bay, ii. 310

Discovery Harbour, iii. 177 ; Port, iv. 298

Diagram of ice, ii. 311

Diseases, Tahiti, ii. 49 ; Samoa, ii. 124 ;
Tonga, iii. 33 ; Feejee, iii. 327 ; Ha-
waiian, iv, 285; Indian, iv. 482; Kings-
mill, V. 104 ; Singapore, v. 409

Districts, Feejee, iii. 61

Disappointment, Cape, iv. 293

Dillon's Rock, iii. 217

Dispute with Spokane Indians, iv. 458

Diell, Rev, Mr., iv. 6

Disturbances at Honolulu, account of, iv,
12

Diamond Hill, iv. 85
Dickinson, Rev. Mr., v. 396

Don Pedro, i. 48

Dolphin Shoal, ii. 40

Doggett, brig Charles, capture of, iii. 104

Doctors, Hawaii, iv. 286

Downhaul, John, iv. 144

Douglass, the botanist, iv. 205

Dowsett, Captain, v. 105 ; his fate, v. 106

Don Miguel, v. 202

Dress, Madeira, i. 18; Guachos, i. 96;
Lima, L 237 ; Tahiti, ii, 22 ; Samoa,
ii. 140 ; New Zealand, ii, 38S ; Feejee,
iii. 355; De Peyster's, v. 42; Drum-
raond's, v, 47; Indian, iv. 393; Ma-
nilla, V. 299 ; Sooloo, v. 343

Drum, Feejee, iii. 300

Drummond's Island, v. 45; natives, v. 46;
dress, v. 47 ; arms, v. 48; canoes, v. 49;

GENERAL INDEX.

547

women, v. 51 ; towns, v. 58 ; food, v,

61 ; character, v. Gl
Drill, Bowditch Island, v. 17
Drajton, Mr., ascends the Columbia, iv. 378
Ducatel, Dr., i. 97
D'lJrville, Admiral, ii. 281
Duke of York's Island, v. 5 ; botany of,

Duke of Clarence's Island, v. 10
DuffReef, iii. 251

Duck establishments, Manilla, v, 301
Dyacks' customs, v. 361; arms, v. 362;
religion, v. 362

Earthquakes, Chili, i. 199, 255; effect of,
i. 246; Samoa, ii. 113; New South
Wales, ii, 270; Hawaiian Group, iv.
229

Echandia, General, v, 163

Education, New South Wales, ii. 237

Eels, Rev. Mr., iv. 455

Eg-leston, Captain, iii, 49

Egmont, Mount, ii. 405

Eimeo, ii. 56

Elephant Island, i. 139

Eld's Peak, ii. 293

Eld Island, iii. 258

Eld, Mr., and native, iv. 132 ; his party to
Gray's Harbour, iv. 477 ; liis party
relieved, v. 131; his party return, v.

134

Electricity easily excited, iv. 134
Ellice's Group, v. 37 ; native of, v. 38
Eliza, brig", wreck of, iii. 62
Election, Philippines, v. 309
Elk Mountains, v. 224
Elk River, v, 225
Emerald Isle, ii. 285
Emmons' Bay, iii. 256
Emerson, Rev. Mr., iv. 74
Emmons' Peak, v. 236
Embarcadero, v. 200

Emmons, Lieutenant, his party to Cali-
fornia, V. 134 ; difficulties, v. 135

English Jim, ii. 4

Entertainment, king of Rewa, iii. 116;

Kanuha's, iv. 207
Enkaba, island of, iii. 168
Enderbury's Island, iii. 371 ; v, 4
Encampments, height of, on route to Canada

from Oregon, v. 137
Eooa, island of, iii. 6
Equipment, articles of, v. 217
Equatorial Current, v. 465, 475
Eruption of Mauna Loa, iv, 187

Erromago, iii. 26

Escudero, Don, v. 313

Ewa, province of, iv, 79 ; lake of, iv, 82

Executive Council, New South Wales, ii.

223

Exploring Isles, iii. 179
Executions, Hawaii, iv. 41
Exports, New South Wales, ii. 271
Eye-glass stolen, iv. 410

Fasetootai, ii. 92

Fawn Harbour, iii. 181

Faulitz Plains, iv. 358; v. 218

Farnham, Mr., anecdote of, iv. 362

Faroilip Island, v. 271

Feejee, eastern group, iii. 45 ; districts, iii.

61 ; history, iii. 62 ; customs, iii. 73 ;

girls, iii. 75; barbers, iii, 75; character,

iii. 76; salutation, iii. 79; army, iii.
79; flags, iii. 80; fortifications, iii. 81 ;
ambassadors, iii. 81 .; religion, iii. 82 ;
superstitions, iii. 85 ; oracle, iii. 89 ;
festivals, iii. 91 ; marriage, iii. 92 ;
midwifery, iii. 93 ; christening, iii. 94 ;
burial, iii. 95; sacrifices, iii. 97; can-
nibalism, iii. lOJ, 154, 237; tombs,
iii, 231 ; music, iii. 246 ; fisliing, iii.
292; drum, iii. 300; climate, iii. 321;
tides, iii, 322; population, iii. 323;
alphabet, iii. 325 ; diseases, iii. 327 ;
amusements, iii, 331 ; messengers, iii,
332; women, iii. 332; food, iii. 333,
350 ; productions, iii. 333 ; calendar,
iii. 341 ; arms, iii. 343 ; canoes, iii.
345 ; pottery, iii. 348 ; mode of sitting,
iii. 35] ; employments, iii. 352 ; hair,
iii. 353; dress, iii. 355 ; trade, iii. 357;
missionary operations, iii, 358

Feather River, v. 182; return to, v. 190

Feis Island, v. 271

Fisheries, New South Wales, ii. 271

Fiery Spirits, iii. 301

Field-ice, ii. 294

Figueroa, General, v. 163

Flying-Fish puts back from southern cruise,
ii. 359 ; arrival at Ovolau, iii. 53; ac-
cident to, V. 70; sold, V. 410

Flood, New South Wales, ii. 172; WeUing-

ton, 2G3
Flint's Island, iii. 277
Fletcher's Island, v. 5

Flathead tribe, iv. 447

Flag Station, iv. 141

Fono or Couiicil, Samoa, ii. 88, 102

Formation of Tongalaboo, iii, 31

Foxall, Edmmid, ii, 71

Food, Feejee, iii. 333 ; Indian, iv. 452

Forbes, Rev. Mr., iv, 90

Forrest, Mr., iv. 315

Fossil remains, Oregon, iv. 360

Foreign residents, Honolulu, conduct of,

iv.7
Forbes, Mr., v. 248

Folger's Island, v. 268

French Shoal, i. 36

548

GENERAL INDEX.

Frio, Cape, i. 39

Frcyrc, General, i, 212, 218, 291 ; ii. 42
French squadron refuse to speak the Por

poise, ii. 343
Eraser's River, iv. 483, 454
Frost, Rev. Mr., iv. 322
French-Frig^ate Shoal, v, 367
Funchal, i. 6, 19

Fuegians, appearance of, i. 122; music, i,

125, 127
Funjasar, ii. 75
Funeral ceremonies, Feejee, iii, 98

Fulanga, iii. 166

Fuse, destruction of, v. 31

Gardiner, Mr. F., i. 29
Gardner, Mr. John, i. 40
Gamarra, General, i. 286, 295
Gale, Bay of Islands, ii. 381
Games, Hawaii, iv. 47

Gay, George, iv. 357 ; anecdote of, iv. 360

Gaspar Island, v. 267

Gangriere, Mr., v. 225

George, Pilot, v, 114

Geology, Samoa, ii. 1 12 ; New South Wales,

ii. 167, 172
Geiger, Mr., v. 178
Gentoo, v. 395

Gipps, Sir George, ii. 161, 213
Gimblet Religion, ii. 99
Gimblet, Joe, v. 26
Gingi, Chief, iii. 227
Gloria, i. 65

Goat Island, iii. 152

Government, Madeira, i. 18; Chili, i. 203;

Tahiti, ii. 17; Samoa, ii. 152; New

South Wales, ii. 222; Kingsmil], v. 85;

Manilla, v. 278 ; Philippines, v. 280 ;

Sooloo, V. 344 ; Singapore, v. 377
Government expenses. New Zealand, ii. 278
Good Success B.iy, i. 113, 140; plants, i,

115

Governor, Nev/ South Wales, ii. 222

Goro Island, iii. 199

Goodrich, Rev. Mr., iv, 208

Gray, Wm., ii. 70

Grande Ronde, iv. 395

Grande Coulee, iv. 436

Grand Rapid Hills, iv. 390

Gray's Harbour, arrival at, v. 129 ; produc-
tions, V. 130 ; tides, v. 132; Indians, v.
132; departure from, v. 133

Graham and foreigners, capture of, v. 169

Green, Rev. Mr., iv. 240

Grigan, island of, v, 269

Gulf Stream, i. 4 ; v. 452

Guachos, dress, i. 96 ; i. 102

Guanacoes, i, 185

Gutieres, General, v. 164

Guardipii, Lake, v. 222

Guinea Current, v. 464

Harden, Beajaniiu, i. 106

Hawaiian Group, natives, iii. 375 ; iv. 3
constitution, iv. 21 ; succession to
tiironc, iv. 31 ; punishment, iv. 33
taxes, iv. 36; executions, iv. 41; as
tronomy, iv, 42 ; calendar, iv. 42
navigation, iv. 44; character, iv. 45
music, iv. 47 ; games, iv. 47 ; doctors
iv. 286 ; productions, iv, 282 ; botany
iv. 283 ; climate, iv, 284 ; diseases, iv
285 ; commerce, v. 260 ; remarks on
V. 261 ; final leave, v. 265

Hawaii Island, iv. 89 ; vegetation, iv. 99

manufactures, iv. 97 ; journey across,
iv. 99

Hanapepe Valley, iv. 62

Halelea, district of, iv. 70

Hale, Mr., journey of, iv. 466

Habits, Sooloo, v. 343

Hall's Island, v. 64

Halcyon Island, v. 268

Halcon, Captain, v. 294

Heath Forest, i. 15

Hemp, New Zealand, ii. 412; Manilla, v.

283

Henrietta, Queen, iii. 228

Henry, Midshipman Wilkes, murder of, iii.
262, 268

Henry's Island, iii. 272

Herrou, Lewis, trial of, v. 258

Hendcrville Island, v. 63
Hitoti, ii. 44

Hihifo, iii. 11

History, Feejee, iii. 62 ; Sooloo, v. 348

Hilo Bay, iv. 113, 230; village of, iv, 115;

return to, iv, 187
Hieroglyphic Rocks, iv, 389
High Prairie, iv. 432

Hindoo processions, v. 387 ; theatres, v. 389
Houses, Madeira, i. 19 ; Wytoohee Island, i.

323; Tahiti, ii, 21; Samoan, ii. 145;

New Zealand, ii. 385 ; Feejee, iii. 305,

344 ; Sooloo, v. 333
Hobson, G. G., Esq., i. 165, 205
Honden Island, i. 316
Hokianga, visit to, ii. 373

Hobson, Captain, his treaty, ii. 375 ; his

proclamation, ii. 378
Hoia, ii. 393

Hoorn Island, ii. 158

Houseman, James, iii. 115

Honolulu, iii. 367; water, iv, 4; Saturday

at, iv. 51; school celebration, iv, 52;

cemetery, iv. 54 ; amusements, iv. 58
Horseshoe Reef, iii. 200
Holmes, Dr., adventure of, iii. 253
Hood, Mount, iv. 336
Holden, Benjamin, i. 250

GENERAL INDEX.

5W

Hood's Canal, iv. 411

Hook swinging, Singapore, v. 390

Horses, sale of, San Francisco, v. 250

Hout's Island, v. 415

Hottentots, v. 431

Hunter, Wm., Esq., i. 41

Huara, convention of, i, 291

Hunter's River, ii. 245, 255

Hull's Island, iii. 370 ; v. 4

Hunt, Rev. Mr., iii. 191, 240

Hudson's Island, v. 44
Hunter's Island, v. 271
Hudson Bay Company, posts, v. 136

Icy barrier, ii. 286
lee, field, ii. 294

Icebergs, ii. 298; landing on, ii, 324; forma-
tion of, ii. 330 ; drift of, ii. 333
Ice, diagram oij ii. 311 ; waitering on, ii.

325
Illawarra, district of, ii. 171, 242; extent of,

ii. 244
Immigration, New South Wales, ii. 226
Indians, iv. 297; dice, iv. 367; mortality,

iv* 370 ; incantations, iv. 400 ; Nis-

qually, iv. 417 ; propiiecy, iv. 439 ;

tribes, iv. 443, 471 ; food, iv, 446 ;

superstitions, iv. 469 ; calendar, iv.

450 ; customs, iv, 456 ; legend, iv.

466 ; gambling, v, 117 ; widow, v.

118 ; conduct of, at Gray's Harbour, v.

130; dance, v. 180; diseases, v. 181
Indian Ocean, v. 41&
indigo, Manilla, v. 290

Irogotcs Indians, v. 306
Islands, search for, v. 4

Fnhabitants, Lima, i, 242; Tahiti, ii. 14;
Manilla, v. 278 ; Singapore, v, 374

Jaquel, vega of, i. 194

Japanese Junk, shipwrecked, iv. 295 ; ap-
pearance, V. 398
Jarvis's Island, v. 4

Jane's Island, v. 266

John Day's River, iv, 402
Johnson, Lieutenant, lost, iv. 435 ; his party
return to Nisqually, iv. 477

Johnson's farm, iv, 361
July, Fourth of, iii. 200 ; iv. 412
Junta de Comcrcio, Manilla, v. 279
Judd, Dr., iv. 112 ; descent into Kilauea, iv.
172 ; narrow escape, iv. 173

Kasanji, i. 60
Kangaroo Valley, ii. 169
Kaurie Pine, ii. 412
Kai Levuka, iii. 61
Katu Mbithi, iii. 158, 308;
159

his funeral, iii.

Kambara Island, iii. 167

Katafanga, iii. 177
Kanathia Island, iii. 250
Kantavu Island, iii. 288
Kaiviti, schooner, iii. 312
Kamehameha III., visit to, iv. 3 ; hi*? ap-
pearance, iv. 4 ; interview with, iv.

10; advice to, iv. 19; visit from, iv.

237 ; visit to, iv. 233 ; his wife, iv.

238
Kaiha, anecdote of, iv. 45
Kauai, island of, iv. 51 ; journey across, iv.

66 ; productions, iv, 71 ; climate, iv

71 ; schools, iv. 73
Kaala, Mount, iv. 75 ; ascent of, iv, 78
Kaluamei Falls, iv. 76
Kaneohe, iv. 84
Kaili, iv. 100
Kanaka, iv. 112; desertion of, iv, 134,

missing, iv. 168; sliipping ofj iii, 386;

mode of carrying, iii. 389
Kalumo, the guide, iv. 116
Kapuahi, iv, 120
Kapoho Point, iv. 186
Kahoolawe, iv. 244
Kanuha, his entertainment, iv. 207
Kaquines, straits of, v. 127
Kendikendi, ascent of, iii, 172
Kea, island of, iii. 252
Kekauluohi, her appearance, iv. 4 ; regent,

iv. 257
Kealakeakua, bay of, iv. 92
Keaweehu, iv. 135; his appearance, iv. 151
Keeau, iv. 191
Kenemoneha, chief, iv. 245
Kettle Falls, Oregon, iv. 444

Kekuanaoa, Governor, iii, 384 ; visit ofj iii.

388

Kemin's Island, iii. 368

King's Island, i. 325

Kiama, blow hole at, ii. 245 ; scenery, ii.

245
Kie Island, iii. 383
King George, iii. 7 ; his town, iii. 13 ; his

house, iii. 15
King Tubou's town, iii. 14
Kiue, the guide, iv, 121
Kilauea, crater of, iv. 102, 165; arrival at,

iv. 123; description of, iv. 124; sulphur
bank, iv. 169 ; survey of, iv. 170; beau-
tiful eruption, iv. 174; departure from,
iv. 179; last visit to, iv. 221 ; state of,
iv. 224
Kirby, John, v. 65 ; his history, v. 65
Kinkla tribe, v. 188; employments, v. 188;
language, V. 189; bows and arrows, v.

189
Kingsmill customs, v. 79; islands, v. 80;
soil, V. 81; cultivation, v. 81 ; peopling,
v. 81 ; social state, v. 83; government,
v, 84; religion, v. 86; priests, v. 87;

550

GENERAL INDEX.

superstitions, v, 88 ; employments, v.
89, 91 ; vices, v. 90 ; character, v. 90;
war, V, 91 ; weapons, v. 93; houses, v.
94; canoes, v. 94; mats, v. 94; food,
V, 96 ; amusements, v, 99 ; mar-
riages, V. 101; tattooing, v. 103; dis-
eases, v. 104 ; climate, v. 105; popula-
tion, V. 105; trade, v. 106

Kihas, Padre, v. 199

Klackamus village, iv. 368

Kiuckullum River, v. 126

Klamet River, v. 237

Kiings, V. 389

Kororarika, ii. 374

Komo Island, iii. 168

Koloa, district of, iv, 64

Konahdunui Mountains, iv. 75

Kona, district of, iv. 94; climate, iv, 95

Kohala, district of, iv. 219

Korsakoff Island, v. 108

Krusenstern's Island, ii. 63

Kula, district of, iv, 251

Kuria Island, v. 65

Kamalatiz Lake, v. 127

Lafuente, General, L 224, 249, 286, 299

La Vinda Mountain, i, 258

La Mar, General, i. 286, 298

Lazcreff Island, ii. 63

Lauto Lake, ii. 96

Lang, Rev. Dr., ii. 252

Lambie Mount, ii. 258

Laughing Jackass, N. S. W., ii. 266

Lakemba, iii. 144, 165

Lati Island, iii. 380

La Place, Captain, his conduct at Oahu, iv.

14, 16 ; his departure, iv. 18 ; his

treaty, iv. 18; its consequences, iv. 18
Lance-throwing, Honolulu, iv. 56
Lafon, Rev. Mr., iv. 67
Lava, description of, iv. 143; varieties, iv.

177; flow of, iv. 185 ; visit to plain, iv.

215

Lahainaluna, seminary ofj iv. 246
Lahaina, town of^ iv. 237
Labour in Oregon, price of, iv. 365
La Framboise, Michel, iv, 349 ; v. 143
La Bonte, iv. 358

La Tete Mountain, iv. 422

Lapwai Mission, iv. 460

Laguna de Bay, v. 311

Labrador Current, v. 459

Legislative Council, N. S. W., ii. 223

Levuka, town ofj iii, 49 ; garden at, iii, 60 ;

war at, iii. 361
Lebouni People, iii. 291
Lecumba Point, iii. 307

Lee, Rev, Jason, iv. 341

Leonidas, Ship, iiL 218
Leave-takinff. Vancouver, iv. 371

Legend, Indian, iv. 466

laght. Zodiacal, i. 230 ; v. 450

Lima, i. 236; dress, i. 237; market, i. 240;
library, i, 241 ; museum, i, 241 ; inha-
bitants, i. 242

Liverpool Mountains, ii. 170 ; town of, ii. 266

Literary Institutions, N, S. W., ii. 273

Little Powder River, iv. 363

Lordello, Baron, i. 9

Locke, Mr., kindness of, iv. 74

Longley, Wm. S., lost, iv. 143; found, iv,

146
Luck's House, ii, 260
Lua Pele, iv. 171
Luzon, island of, v. 281 ; its formation, v.

282 ; minerals, v. 282 ; volcanic action
on, v. 283 ; soil, v, 283 ; productions, v

283 ; agriculture, v. 284
Lucepara Passage, v. 415

Madeira, i, 6 ; sledge, i. 10 ; statistics, i. 16/
commerce, i. 17 ; dress, i. 18 ; govern
ment, i, 18 ; houses, i. 19 ; plants, i. 20
wine, i, 20

Maria Rock, i. 28

Makuan, i. 61

Maypo, plain of, i. 178

Markets, Santiago, L 180; Lima, i. 240;
Manilla, v. 301 ; Singapore, v. 391

Marines, conduct of, i. 232; review of, ii.
113

Mathews, Mr., i. 244
Manhii Island, i. 336 ; iv, 263
Mango Island, iii. 176
Manua, ii. 65

Matafoa, ii. 82

Malictoa, ii. 93, 102; v. 23
Maletau, ii. 103
Manono Island, ii. 107
Matthews' Rock, ii. 159
Macquarie, Governor, ii. 165, 213
Macquarie, fort, ii. 161; lake, ii. 248;
island, ii. 287

Maconochie, Captain, his plan for managing
convicts, ii. 216

Maitland, town of, ii. 256

Malevuvu, iii. 177

Malatta Island, iii. 179

Malaki Passage, iii. 210

Malina Island, iii. 250

Malolo Island, iii. 265 ; natives of, beg for
pardon, iii. 282 ; observations on mur-
ders at, iii. 284; departure from, iiL

286

Mali Island, iii. 303; Passage, iii. 315

Maro, David, iv. 6, 250

Manuel Rodriguez, island of, iv. 263

Magnetic Equator, situation of, iv. 263

Margaret's Island, iv. 265

Maika, iv. 55

GENERAL INDEX.

551

Manufactures, natives^ Hawaii, iv, 97 ;

sugar, Hawaii, iv. 208 ; Taliiti, ii. 53
Mauna Loa, iv. Ill ; set out for, iv. 116;

view of, iv. 122 ; natives mutiny, iv.

125 ; reach terminal crater, iv. 142 ;

description of, iv. 143; descent ii^to,

iv. 152 ; arrival of party from ship, iv.

144 ; depth of crater, iv, 157 ; weather,

iv. 150; storm, iv, 156; circuit of, iv.

159 ; comparison with Mauna Kea, iv.

225

Mauna Kea, height of, iv. 160; ascent of,
iv. 199 ; description of, iv. 203 ; descent
of, iv. 205

Mauna Haleakala, ascent of, iv. 253 ; de-
scription of, iv. 254 ; descent of, iv.
256

Maui, island of, iv. 235

Madison, Port, iv. 304

Maxwell, Mr., iv. 454

Mataatu, v. 33

Matafayatele village, v. 39

Matetau, v. 30

Matuku Island, iii. 146

Maraki, v. 70, 71

Makin Island, v, 72 ; natives of, v. 73 ;
canoes, v, 74

Magnolia, ship, v. 109

Mask, Northwest Indians, v. 146

Marsh, Dr., v. 182

Martinez, Senor, v. 195

Male Creek, v. 223

Maloon's Island, v. 266

Manilla, arrival at, v. 275 ; situation, v. 276 ;
description ofj v. 277 ; inliabitants, v.
278 ; government, v. 279 ; hemp, v.
288; coffee, v. 289; cotton, v. 289;
indigo, v. 290 ; mode of living, v. 297 ;
customs, V. 297 ; music, v. 298 ; drives,
V. 298 ; markets, v. 301 ; trade, v. 302 ;
churches, v, 304 ; monks, v. 305

Magelhaens, v. 279

Magjaijai, v, 313

Maquiling, Mount, v. 318

Marongas Island, v. 340

Mangsee Islands, v. 358

Marama, feast of, v. 387

Malays, habits of, v. 393 ; peninsula, v. 404;

animals ofj v. 407
Maro Reef, v. 367
Mbure, iii. 49

Mbatu, iii< 87 ; their incantations, iii. 88
Mbua district, iii. 150, 911; history of, iii,

215 ; survey of bay, iii. 303

Mbrnga, iii. 207

Meteors, i. 35

Melithriptes Pacifica, iv. 4

Merril's Island, iv. 265

Medicine-men, Northwest Indians, iv. 369

Meteorological Diary, Vancouver, v. 138

Mercador, Padre, v. 204

Miscricordia, Rio de Janeiro, i. 47
Miuas, i, 54

Missionaries' schools, Tahiti, ii. 9 ; succv.-^ri
at Tahiti, ii. 12; Samoan, ii. 127; New
South Wales, ii, 250 ; New Zealand,
ii. 382 ; Somu-somu, iii. 153; treat-
ment ofj at Somu-somu, iii, 298 ;
Feejee, iii. 358; residence, Honolulu,
iv. 5 ; printing establishment, iv. 5 ;
Lahaina seminary, iv. 246 ; Oregon,
iv. 331, 354; farm, Oregon, iv. 351;
hospital, iv. 351; Lapwai, iv, 460;
school, iv, 465 ; Savaii, v, 22 ; Oregon,
V. 220

Mitchell, Major, ii. 172, 258

Mill, saw, at Hawaii, iv. 199 ; Sugar, Ha-
waii, iv, 242 ; grist, Oregon, iv. 335 ;
saw, Oregon, iv. 335

Mindoro Island, v. 323

Mindanao Island, v. 328

Mindoro, fort of, v. 328

Minor's farm, iv, 253

Mocha Island, i. 161

Morun, General, i. 295

Morenhout, Mr., ii. 6

Motha Island, iii. 168

Moto-ufu, ii, 41

Mowna, ii. 74

Moa, iii. 16, 22

Moala Island, iii. 146

Moturiki Island, iii. 148; passage, iii. 148

Mokungai Island, iii. 187

Monkey.face Passage, iii. 217

Monument to officers, iii. 311

Moon, eclipse of, iii. 362

Molokai Island, iv. 259

Moore, Mr., iv, 361

Mole, V. 23

Monterey, v. 163

Moore, Josiah, Esq., v. 275

Moodie, Donald, Esq., v. 425

Mudjana, i. 63

Mundjolo, i. 59

Music, Fuegians, i. 127 ; Feejee, iii. 246 ;

native, Australia, ii. 190
Museum, Lima, i. 241

Mufa,iii. 16
Mumui, iii. 17
Munia, iii. 177
Mumbolithe, iii. 187

Muthuata, theft at, iii. 230 ; ascent of peak,
iii. 233 ; departure from, iii. 313; town

of, iii. 225
Murder of Gideon Smith, iv. 104
Mulgrave's Islands, v. 113
Murphy, Mr., V. 199
Myandone, chief of, iii. 304
M'Keever, Commodore, U. S. N., i. 206, 307
M'Call, Edward, Esq., i. 307

552

GENERAL INDEX.

M'Leay, Aloxaudor, Esq., ii. 190
M'Gill, ii. 253

M'Kean's Island, iii. 3(iD

M'Laughlin, Dr., iv. 327, 341 ; visits

ship, iv. 413; kindness, v.

conduct, V. 136 ; letter to, v.

115;
147

the

his

M'Niel, Captain, iv. 305 ; v. 124
M'Donald, Mr., iv. 434
M'Lean, Mr., iv. 468
M'Kay. Thomas, v. 221
M'Kenzie's Group, v. 272

Navy, Brazil, i. 85 ; Chili, i. 204
Natives, Australia, ii, 255; Tonga, iii. 25 ;
Hawaii, iii, 375

Naturalists, operations of, New Zealand, ii,
S70

Naiiiuka Island, iii. 168

Naiau Island, iii. 175

Naitauiba, iii. 180

Nairai Island, iii, 184

Navula Passage, iii. 208

Naloa Bay, iii. 222, 308

Nanuku Passage, iii, 251

Naviti, iii. 258

Natava Bay, iii. 377

Napolo, iv. 90

Natives. Hawaii, their selfishness, iv. 133 ;
pride, iv. 257 ; rights of relationship,
iv. 257 ; industry, iv. 251 ; Ellice's
Group, v. 38

Nanavalie, Sand HiUs, iv. 188

Narrows, Puget Sound, iv, 305

Navigation, Hawaiian, iv. 44

Nappa Valley, v. 196

Napier, Sir George, v. 425

Natal, Port, v. 433

Nanvitz, Lake, v. 127

Newman, Mr. H,, i. 191

New South Wales, ii. 157 ; geology, ii. 172;

floods, ii. 172; rivers, ii. 173; salt, ii.

174; salt lakes, ii. 174; mountains,

ii, 174; climate, ii. 175; vegetation,

ii. 178; botany, ii, 188; wine, ii, 183;

discovery, ii. 201 ; convicts, ii. 205,

237 ; convict rations, ii. 219 ; factory,

ii. 204; social system, ii. 217 ; society,

ii. 220 ; government, ii, 222 ; governor,

ii, 222 ; lieutenant-governor, ii. 223 ;

executive council, ii, 223; legislative

council, ii. 223; regulations, ii. 224;

immigration, ii. 226; price of land, ii.

227; crime, li. 231, 236; convictions,

ii. 229, 235; education, ii. 237; re-

ligion, ii. 238; coal-pits, ii. 246; mar-

riages, ii. 247; missionaries, ii. 260;

mails and post-oflice, ii. 256; sheep and

wool, ii. 262 ; population, ii. 264, 274 ;

language, ii. 284 ; *' laughing jackass,"

ii. 266 ; ornithology, ii. 266 ; salt-

I

works, ii. 268; saline lakes, ii. 269;

earthquakes, ii. 270 ; commerce, ii.

271 ; fisheries, ii. 271 ; commerce with

United States, ii. 273
Negroes, Rio de Janeiro, i. 54
Newcastle, town of, ii. 246
Ndronga, iii. 208

New Zealand, ii. 363, 369 ; claims, ii. 377;
government expenses, ii. 378 ; land
company, ii. 380; price of land, ii.
382 ; missionaries, ii. 382 ; taboo, ii,
383 ; carving, ii, 385 ; houses, ii. 385 ;
tombs, ii. 387 ; dress, ii. 388 ; fishing,
ii. 389 ; food, ii. 389 ; ornaments, ii.
390 ; native character, ii. 398 ; ap-
pearance of, ii. 398 ; traditions, ii. 399 ;
curiosities, ii. 400 ; mission operations,
ii. 401 ; war-dance, ii. 403 ; climate, ii.
410; soil, ii. 410; produce, ii, 411; hemp,
ii. 412 ; birds, ii. 413 ; trade, ii. 413

Nemena, island of, iii. 151

Ned's House, iv. 204

New York Island, iv. 281

New Caledonia, iv. 450

Nez Perc6 Indians, their customs, iv. 464

Neah Harbour, iv, 485

New Dungeness, iv. 483

New Helvetia, v. 178; geographical posi
tion, V. 180 ; crops, v. 193

Negrito Indians, Luzon, v. 306; their wea-
pons, V. 307

Necker Island, v. 366

Ngaraningiou's house, iii, 119

Nieto, General, i. 294

Ninito, ii, 41

Nilhau, island of, iv. 63; population, iv, 64
Nisqually, fort at, iv. 305 ; description of,

iv. 417; farm, iv. 414
Niculuita, iv. 388
Noir Island, i, 157

Northern Posts, Hudson Bay Co., iv. 451
Northern Section, Oregon, climate, iv. 454
North, Rev. Mr., v. 395
Nukualofa, iii. 7, 18
Nukalau, iii. 183
Nugatobe Islets, iii, 249
Nukumanu, iii. 251
Nuuanu, valley of, iii. 390
Nukutipipi Island, iv. 266
Nyambana, i. 63

Oahu, island of, iii. 373; Pali, iii. 391,

Peacock arrives at, v. 109
Oak Point, Oregon, iv. 319, 325

O'Brien^s Island, i, 136
Obrajillo, i. 256, 274
Obrejoso, i. 288, 294

Observatory Isle, iii. 171; Peak, iii. 259
Waiakea, iv, 114; magnetic. Cape of

Good Hope, v. 434 ;

GENERAL INDEX.

553

Ocean, temperature, i. 310

Ofoo, ii. 65, 69

Officers, murder of, at Malolo, iii. 262, 278

Ogle, Alexander, death ofj i. 311

Ogden, Miss, iv. 240

Ogden, Peter, Esq., iv. 364; parting with,

iv. 372
O'Higgins, General, i. 212
Okonagan, iv. 433
Okimbo Island, iii. 180
Oloosinga, ii. 65, 67
01aa,iv. 119

Oneata, island of, iii. 169, 171
O'Neill, Mr., iv. 356
Ooaigarra, ii. 30

Opotuno, ii, 92, 104 ; attempt to capture, ii.

101
Opium shops, Manilla, v. 403
Organ Mountains, i. 69
Orange Harbour, i. Ill, 120; tide, i. 128;

weather, i. 158
Orohena, peak of, ii. 25, 44
Orsmond, Mr., ii. 33

Orator, king's, Somu-somu, iii. 299

Order, general, iv. 301

Oregon missionaries, iv. 331 ; purchase of

brig, iv. 495; brig, v. 115; population,

v. 140

Orchard, Port, iv. 480

Oroa, Don Marcelino, v. 293

Osborne, Dr., R. N., ii. 244

Otooho, island of, i. 323

Otapuna, town of, ii. 34

Otore, ii. 42

Otter Creek, v. 237

Outfits of the squadron, i. 24 ; ii. 274

Ovolau, iii. 45 ; island of, iii. 52 ; survey of,

m. 148

Patty's Overfalls, i. 35

Palmer's Land, i. 136

Parhelion, i. 109 ; iii. 4

Patagonians, food of, i. 114

Pasco, mines of, i. 266 ; town of, i. 267

Pachacamac, i. 278

Paumotu Group, i. 307 ; iv, 282 ; canoe of,

1.340
Paofai, ii. 11

Pappino River, ii. 25
Papara, ii. 31

Panawea, ii, 31

Papieti, harbour of, ii, 40» 47 ; its com-
merce, ii. 48; troubles at, iv, 272;
police, iv. 276

Papaoa, harbour of, ii. 58

Pago-pago, harbour of^ ii 7

Parry, Sir Edward, ii. 206

Pangai-Moutu, iii. 16

Pali, Oahu, iii. 391

Paramatta, factory at, ii. 213; town of| ii.

70

241 ; observatory, ii. 241 ; telegraph,
ii. 242

Papaoa schools, ii. 272 ; meeting at, iv, 273

Panau, iv, 181

Pahuhali, iv. 183, 216

Pandanus tree, iv. 192

Patrocinio, island of v. 109

Palermo, Mount, v. 153

Pailolo Channel, v. 257

Pativas, Luzon, v. 311

Panay, island of, v. 325

Petcherai Indians, i. 121

Peru, i. 229; climate, i. 248; journey into,
L 253 ; political history, i. 285 ; com-
merce, i. 303

Pea, ii. 89

Peacock Bay, ii. 304

Peacock, accident to, ii. 300 ; repairs, ii.
363; return, ii. 364; leaves Sydney,
iii. 37 ; arrival at Eooa, iii. 38 ; leaves
Rewa, iii. 137 ; agroxmd, iii. 206 ;
narrow escape, v. 70; wreck, v, 110;
loss ofj iv. 489 ; launch, disposition of^
V. 145

Piner's Bay, ii. 317
Penguins, ii. 326
Peru Island, girls of, v. 67
Pescadores Island, v. 108

r

Penrhyn's Island, iv. 277 ; natives of, iv. 277
Pendulum Peak, camp on, iv. 145

Pendulum observations at Hilo, iv, 194

Penn's Cove, iv. 481

Phillips, or Thokanauto, iii. Ill

Philippines, discovery, v. 279 ; expedition

to, V. 280 ; taken possession of by the

Spaniards, v 281 ; population, v. 291 ;

army, v. 292 ; revenue, v. 307

Phoenix Group, v. 5
Pico, peak of, i. 5

Pico Ruivo, i. 22

Pinto, General, i, 213

Pitohiti, ii, 46

Pigeon Bay, ii, 407

Pillar Rock, v. 120, 143

Pilot, Hilo Bay, iv. Ill

Pit-craters, Hawaii, iv, 180

Pilot^a Cove, iv. 303

Pisclious River, iv. 430

Pierre, Charles, iv. 419

Pinus Lambertiana, v. 232

Plunket, Mr., Attorney-General, ii. 243

Plumondon, Simon, iv. 316
Porter, George, accident to, i. 6
Porto Praya, i. 29 ; statistics, i. 32
Political state, Brazil, i. 80 ; history. Chili,

i.211
Portales, Diego, i. 222
Population, Chili, i. 202; New South Wales,

ii. 264 ; Tonga, iii. 29 ; Feejee, iii. 323 ;

Waimea, iv. 62 : Niihaa« iv. 64 Kin^s.

VOL. V.

2W

554

GENERAL INDEX.

mill, V. 105; Oregon, v. 140; Singa-
pore, V. 404 ; Cape of Good Hope, v.
438 ; St Helena, v. 449

Post-OlHce, New South Wales, ii. 236

Porpoise and French squadron, ii. 343 ;
gale, ii. 346; returns north, ii. 349 ; re-
pairs, iv. 281 ; sickness on board, iv.292

Pomarc, ii. 376. 390 ; Pas, ii. 386

Pom are, Charley, ii. 391

Port Cooper, ii. 405

Port Levy, ii. 406

Port Refuge, iii. 380

Port Safety, iii. 252

Pottery, Feejee, iii. 348

Police, Tahiti, iv. 276

Port Towuscnd, iv. 302

Port Lawrence, iv, 303

Port Madison, iv. 304

Port Discovery, iv. 298

Ports, northern, Hudson Bay Company, iv,

451

Port Orchard, iv. 480
Poplars, grove of, v. 190
Poiiiale, ii. 74

Prairies, Rio Negro, i. 103 ; Oregon, iv,
307; little, iv. 423; high, iv. 432;
Bute, iv. 415 ; country, iv. 459 ; Bates,

V. 184, 245

Prieto, General, i. 172, 213
Pritchard, Rev. Mr., ii, 6, 59
Priests, Feejee, iii. 307

Protection Island, iv. 298

Productions, Tonga, iii. 32 ; Feejee, iii.

333 ; Kauai, iv. 71 ; California, v. 159 ;

Hawaiian, iv. 282; New Zealand, ii. 411
Puna, IV. 188

Puahai, village of, iv, 206
Puget Sound, iv. 304 ; v. 137; survey of, iv.
479

Puget Island, v. 121

Puget Sound Company, iv. 308
Pulgas, Las, v. 212
Pyl>tart*s Island, iii. 35

Piria, manufacture of^ v. 297
Prado, Manilla, v. 298
Parsees, habits of, v. 394
Peralto, family of, v. 200

Quillota, i. 187

Queen of Rewa, iii. 127

Quiarlpi tribe, Oregon, iv.^41

Raraka, island of, i, 326 ; chief of, i. 398 ;

tattooing, i. 326
Raymond, W. O., ii. 262
Rabone, Mr., iii. 9
Rambe, island of, iii. 254
Ragsdale, the guide, iv, 134
Rainier, Mount, iv. 413, 424
Ramsey, the pilot, v. 114

Ranchcros, California, v. 211
Rajah Bassa, v. 415

Rebello, Sedor, i. 9

Rativa Island, iii, 181

Rations, convicts. New South Wales, ii. 219

Reid, Passed Midshipman, i. 207

Reynolds, George, i. 318

Recreation Island, ii. 64

Religion, Chili, i. 200; Tutuila, ii. 80;

Samoa, ii. 131; Australia, iL 197;

New South Wales, ii. 238 ; Tonga, iii.

22 ; Feejee, iii. 82
Reynold's Peak, ii. 293
Refuge, Port, iii. 380
Rewa, iii. 109; town of, iii. 118; king of,

visits the Peacock, iii. Ill; queen of,

iii. 127; history of, iii- 132; visit to,

iii. 182
Reid Island, inhabitants of, iv, 264
Recruiting Station, Mauna Loa, iv, 138
Reyes, Punta de Los, iv. 151

Revolution, California, v. 166

Rebellion, Philippines, v. 293

Regulations, Samoa, ii. 103

Rennell Current, v. 463

Rhio, Straits of, v. 413

Rio de Janeiro, i. 46 ; statistics, i. 86

Rio Negro, salt, i, 98 ; population, i, 99 ;

tribes, i. 100 ; climate, i. 100
Rivers, New South Wales, ii. 173
Ringgold's Knoll, ii. 293
Rivalctta, iii. 103
Ridgcly, Port, iii. 250
Ringgold's Isles, iii. 302
Richards, Rev. Mr., iv, 8
Richmond, Dr., iv. 307
Rice, Manilla, varieties, v. 284 ; harvesting,

V. 285 ; mode of stacking, v. 287
Richardson, Captain, v. 194
Robolua, ii. 408

Royal George Shoal, ii, 63

Rose Island, ii, 63

Rocks, The, ii. 260

Ross, Captain Sir James, ii. 282

Rosetta Shoal, iii. 5

Rotuina Island, iii. 24

Round Island, iii. 255

Royal ladies, Muthuata, visit to ship, iii. 229
Royal feuds, Tahiti, iv. 272

Route from United States to Oregon, iv, 474
Rogues' River, v. 232

Ruke.ruke Bay, iii. 217

Santiago, town of, i, 180 ; market, i, 183

San Fehpe, town of, i. 192 ; copper mines,

i. 194

Santa Cruz, General, i. 218, 224, 292, 300;

decree of, i. 301
San Lorenzo, i. 231
San Miguel, i. 256

y

1

T

GENERAL INDEX.

Salaverry, General, i. 299
Sacket, Lewis, ii. 44
Sag-ana, ii. 93

Sanga, ii. 98

Samoan Group, ii. 117; regulations of, ii.

1 03 ; geo^aphical position, ii. 117;

climate, ii. 118; size, ii. 119; botany,

ii. 119; zoology, ii. 122; language, ii.

123 ; diseases, ii. 124 ; character, ii.

126; population, ii. 130; religion, ii.

131 ; dances, ii. 134 ; amusements, ii.

135; games, ii. 137, 147; dress, ii.

140; canoes, ii, 143; houses, ii. 145;

arms, ii. 151 ; government, ii. 152
Sayail, island of, ii. 108; geology, ii. 112;

fishing at, ii. 112
Sapapale, ii. 108, 110
Salcalua, ii. 108
Salt, New South Wales, ii. 174
Saline Lakes, New South Wales, ii. 174, 269
Salt Works, New South Wales, ii. 268
Sarah's Bosom, ii. 353
Sac, John, ii. 378
Salutation, mode of, Feejee, iii, 79
Savage, Charley, iii. 62
Savu-savu, iii- 165; point, iii. 195; district

of, iii. 200
Safety, Port, iii. 252
Sau-sau Passage, iii. 254, 303
Sandalwood district, iii. 306
Saken Island, iv. 264
San Pablo Island, iv. 266
Sand-hills, Nanavalie, iv. 190
Sand-hills, Maui, iv. 243
Salmon-fishery, Oregon, iv. 418
Salmon, Indian mode of taking, iv. 398
Salelese, destruction of, v. 31
San Juan, harbour of, iv, 485
Saluafata, destruction of, v. 31
Sachap River, v. 197
Sachal Lake, v. 126
San Francisco, arrival at, v, 151 ; presidio,

V. 152 ; bar of, v. 255
San Pedro Island, v. 271
Sacramento Indians, arms, v. 185 ; appear-
arice, v. 185 ; rancherias, v. 186; thefl,
▼. 187; fish- weirs, V, 188; river, v. 246
San Juan, valley of, v. 154
San Pablo Bay, survey of, v, 177
Santa Clara, visit to, v, 203 ; mission, v. 205 ;

church, v. 205
San Jos^, pueblo of, v. 207 ; alcalde, v. 208

Sanchez, Senor, v. 212
San Joachim River, v. 247
Sausalito, position of, v. 253
Salomon, Don Juan, v. 294
Santa Cruz, town of, Luzon, v, 312
San Jose, Luzon, v. 327
Samboangan, v. 398
Sangboy*8 Island, v. 331

Sargasso Sea, v, 467

Scarcity of water, Mauna Loa, iv. 131

Schools, Kauai, iv. 73 ; Wailuku, iv. 240 ;

Vancouver, iv. 332 ; Brazil, i, 85
Seal Rocks, i. 139

Sca-Gull, loss of schooner, i. 205
Seamen's chapel, Honolulu, iv. 6.
Serle Island, i. 315

Settler's cottage, New South Wales, ii. 261
Sea-elephants, ii, 291

Seru, iii. 67,142

Sea-Gull Group, iv. 264

Sebastian del Cano, v. 280

Semarara Island, v, 324

Seedros, v. 390

Shoalhaven, iv. 245

Sheep and wool. New South Wales, ii. 262 ;
cost of, ii. 263 ; Captain M'Arthur at-
tempts to introduce, ii. 265

Shy lock, ship, wreck of, iii. 301, 378

Shaste country, v. 237; geology, v. 238;
mountains, v. 240 ; Indians, v, 242 ;

dress, v, 243 ; peak, v. 940

Shoalwater Bay, v. 133

Shutc's River, iv. 312

Sicuani, assembly of, i. 290

Simpson, Rev, Mr., ii. 56

Siusinga, ii- 99

Sifileurs, iv. 434

Sickness on board Porpoise, iv. 392

Sitting, Feejee mode of, iii. 351

Singapore, v, 366 ; port ofj v. 372; descrip-
tion of, V. 374 ; inhabitants, v. 374 ;
government, v. 377 ; island of^ v. 379 ;
tigers at, v. 379 ; botany, v, 379 ; pro-
ductions, V. 380; market, v. 391 ; coins,
V. 392 ; trades, v, 392 ; commerce, v.
399 ; taxes, v. 402; remarks on, v. 404 :

climate, v. 408 ; diseases, v. 409
Simpson, Sir George, v. 122
Slacum, WilliaiU, Esq., i. 41
Slacum, Mr., introduction of cattle into

Oregon hy^ iv. 359
Sly-Boots, chief, iv, 379
Sleepy Point, iii. 248
Smith, William, death of, iii- 312
Smith, Gideon, murder of, iv. 104; v. 25
Smalocho River, iv. 422
Smoking, effects of on Indians, v. 131
Snake River, iv. 401, 462
Sucicty, New South Wales, ii, 290
Somu-somu, iii. 141, 152, 252, 300, 377;

missionaries, iii. 153 ; treaty, iii. 157
Springs, Hot^ Taiaimi, ii. 372; Waikama,

iii. 197; analysis of its waters, iii. 199
Spipen River, iv. 425, 469
Spokane Indians, iv. 458
Spalding, Rev. Mr., iv. 461
Speiden Island, v. 44
Squadron, outfits, &c., Sydney, ii. 274

556

GENERAL INDEX.

Sooloo, V. 323 ; island, v. 331 ; canoes, v.
332 ; houses, v. 333 ; customs, v. 341 ;
appearance, v. 342 ; dress, v. 342 ; clia-
racter, v. 342 ; women, v. 343 ; habits,
V. 343 ; government, v. 344 ; population,
V. 346 ; duties, v. 347 ; commerce, v.
347; history, v. 348; treaty, v. 350;
piracies, v. 353; visit to sultan, v. 335

Soung, town of, v. 338 ; market, v, 338 ;
fruits, V. 338 ; tlieft at, v. 339

iSt. Anne Shoal, i. 5

St. Michael's Island, i, 5

St. Christoval Palace, i. 48

St. Thomas's Shoal, i. 68, 88

Stewart, William, i. 150

St. Jolm's Day, i. 244

St. Patrick's Ball, Sydney, ii. 365

Staver's Island, iv. 277

Stetson, Captain, his silk establishment, iv.
59

St. Helen's Reach, Columbia River, iv. 319

Steamer, Hudson Bay Company, iv. 309

St. Augustine Island, v. 44

St. Rafael Mission, v. 198

St. Helena, island of, v. 469

Starling, H, B. M. schooner, iii. 150

Sugar Loaf Mountain, i. 67 ; ascent oij i.

67
Sucre, General, i. 285

Sunday, Island, iii. 5

Superstition, Feejee, iii. 85

Susui, iii. 179

Suva, iii. 206

Sualib Bay, boat captured, iii. 240 ; attack

upon, iii. 342
Sualib, town of^ attack upon, iii, 274
Sugar-Mills, Koloa, iv. 60
Sunken Forest, Oregon, iv. 381
Suter, Captain, v. 178, 198, 246
Sugar, Manilla, v. 289
Sultan, Sooloo, visit to, v. 335
Swain's Island, v, 18
Sydney, town of, ii. 162 ; botanical garden,

ii. 166; literary institutions, ii. 273;

facilities for outfits, ii. 276 ; trades'

union, iiL 35; grog-shops, iii. 36;

snakes, iii, 37
Sydney Islands, iii. 371

Takwani, i. 62

Taloo Harbour, ii. 56
Tofua, Mount, ii. 96

Taiaimi, hot springs at, ii. 372

Taii, ii. 41

Tahiti, ii. 3 ; amusements, ii. 8, 25 ; mission
school, ii. 9; complaints at, ii. 10; in-
habitants, ii. 14; government, ii. 17;
chiefs, ii 18; religion, ii. 19; canoes,
ii, 21 ; habitations, ii. 21 ; dress, ii.
22: coimnerce. ii. 35; nroductions. ii.

36 ; diseases, ii. 49 ; manufactures, ii
51 ; theatre, ii. 55; troubles, iv. 274
Taua, ii. 6, 42

Tamahaa, iii. 27

Tanoa, iii. 54; his arrival, iii, 54; his re-
ception, iii. 55; visits Vincennes, iii.
57 ; rebellion against, iii. 64

Taal, Volcano De, v. 317; analysis of

water, v. 318
TabanaicIIi Island, iii. 168
Tabutha Island, iii. 176
Tasman's Straits, iii. 180
Tauthake Island, iii, 256
Taweree Island, iv. 265
Takurca Island, iv. 265
Takali tribe, iv. 451

Tatouche tribe and chief, iv. 486

Table Bay, v. 421

Taxes, Singapore, v. 402

Taupe, King, v. 13

Tarawa Island, v, 69

Tama, v. 53

Tekere, King, v, 74

Terra del Fuego, L 119

Telanicolo Mountain, iii. 178

Teku Island, iv. 264

Temperance cause, Oregon, iv. 330

Teinhoven Island, iv. 277

Tertulia, Manilla, v. 299

Threlkeld, Mr., ii. 248

The Rocks, ii. 260

Thaki Island, iii. 169

Tlieory of coral islands, iv. 268

Tahiti Island, iv. 270

Thompson, Mr., v. 432

Ticumbia, island of, iii. 178

Tidal wave, Fago-pago, ii. 83 ; Hawaii, iv.

226
Tides, Feejee, iii. 322 ; Nisqually, iv. 417
Titcomb, Mr., his plantation, iv. 70
Tidias, Chief, iv. 427

Toa, ii. 71, 75

Tooa, iii. 103
To'o, ii. 95

Tongataboo, iii. 3 — 6 ; war at, iii. 8 ; for-
mation, iii. 31

Tobacco Plant, whaler, iii. 5

Tonga customs, iii. 17 ; canoes, iii. 19 ;

religion, iii. 22 ; population, iii. 29 ;

missionaries, iii. 29 ;

31 ; productions, iii, 32 ; climate, iii.

32 ; diseases, iii. 33 ; pilots, iii. 35 ;

war, iii. 38
Tova Reef, iii. 145
Totoia Island, iii. 145
Totten Mount, iii. 250
Tomato, Feejee, iii. 309
Tongue Point, iv. 326 ; v. 119
Tolben, Dr., v. 305
Triton Bank, i. 37

swimmers, in.

I

\

4

GENERAL INDEX.

557

Travelling, Hawaii, iv. 117 ; Oregon, iv.

379
Trappers, Hudson Bay Company, iv. 333

Tribunal of Commerce, Manilla, v. 279
Travel, Ephraim, v, 248
Trading, Apia, v, 22

Tracy's Island, v. 40

Triton, whale-ship, iii. 312

Tullock Reef, i, 5

Tutuila^ island of, ii. 70 ; religion, ii, 80 ;

climate, ii. 81 ; appearance ofj ii, 87
Tuvai, ii. 88, 157; his sentence, ii. 90
Tucker, Rev, Mr., iii. 7
Tubou, iii. 7
Tucker, Mrs. iii. 13
Tui Levuka, iii, 48
Tubou Total, iii. 143

Tui Mora, iii. 212
Tui Mbua, iii. 213
Tui Muthuata, iii. 227
Tubou Harbour, iii. 251
Turtle, Feejee, iii. 261
Tui Mbua, town of, iii. 307
Tui Illa.illa, iii. 377
Tui Ncau, iii. 169
Turtle Island, iii. 379

Turnbull Island, iv. 266
Tutui grove, iv. 69
Turner's Encampment, v. 233
Tula marshes, v. 177
Tui-Tokelau, his house, v. 14
Tye, town of, iii. 243

Uata, ii. 41

Ularua Island, iii. 168

Umpqua, fort, v. 225; country, v. 25fi6 ,

mountains, v. 227
Underwood's Tower, iii. 191
Underwood, Lieutenant, murder of, iii. 309 ;

proceedings in relation to, iii. 310

Upham River, ii. 265

Upolu, island of, ii. 88; iii. 381 ; geological

structure, ii. 97
Utami, ii, 34
Utiroa, attack upon, v. 59 ; burnt, v. 60

Valparaiso, i. 166; police, i. 168; geogra-
phical position, i. 229

Vahaore, ii. 44
Vavasa, ii. 89, 102

Vasqucz Island, iii. 6, 35

Vatulelc, iii. 205, 287

Vaturea, iii. 215

Vanua-valavo, iii. 250

Vashon's Island, iv. 304

Vancouver, description of, iv, 328 ; granary
and farm, iv. 334 ; dinner at, v. 122 ;
geographical position, v. 123 ; mag-
netic observations, v. 123

Vallejo, Governor, v. 197

2W2

Vanderford, Benjamin, death of, v. 447
Vendovi, iii. 120 ; capture of, iii. 131 ; leave-
taking, iii. 136; death of, v. 453
Vekai, island of, iii. 176
Veraki, iii. 222
Vidaurre, General, i, 222
Vincennes Island, i. 330 ; catching fish, L

331

Vincennes, gale encountered by, ii. 313 ;

leaves icy barrier, ii. 338; condition

of, iii. 56
Victoria, Mount, ii. 258
Vi-tonga, iii. 183
Viti-rau-rau, iii. 261
Victoria, General, v. 163
Viper Shoal, v. 366

Voyageurs, Hudson Bay Company, iv. 392
Votua Island, iii. 223
Vomo Island, iii. 266
Voona, valley of, iii. 292

Vuna Island, iii. 180

Warley's Shoal, i. 35

.Waves, height of, i. 135

Waiherea Lake, ii. 25

VVangarra, town of, ii. 395

Wailis Island, ii. 157

Watson, Mr., ii. 262

Wailuku River, expedition up, iii, 121

Wakaia Island, iii. 189

Waikama, hot springs of, iii. 197 ; analysis

of water, iii. 199
Waialailai Island, iii. 259
Waia Island, iii. 259
War. threatened between Ambau and Vuna,

iii. 297
Walker's Island, iv. 263
Waimea district, Kauai, iv. 60; population,

iv. 62
Wailioli, Mount, iv. 72
Waialua district, iv. 74; climate, iv. 76

Waianae district, iv. 81

Waikiki, iv. 86

Waverley, schooner, iv. 106
Water, Mauna Loa, scarcity of, iv. 131
Waldron's Ledge, Kilauea, iv. 167
Wailuku, falls of, iv. 213; viUage, iv. 239;

ride to, iv. 239 ; school, iv. 240 ; pass,

iv. 256
Waimea district, Hawaii, iv. 217
Wave, brig, iv. 319
Warrior's Point, iv. 326 ; v. 121

Waller, Rev. Mr., iv. 343

Wallawalla, iv. 377; fort, iv. 391, 463,

mission, iv. 393 ; river, iv. 394 ; gar-

den at, iv. 467
Walker, Mr., his farm, iv. 362
Washington Island, v. 3
Wake's Island, v. 267
Wadsworth, Commodore, U. S. N., v. 468

558

GENERAL INDEX.

Weatherboard Inn, New South Wales, ii.

258

Wellington, flood at, ii. 263 ; town of, ii.

261

W^hite-jacket Ball, Rio de Janeiro, i. 66
Whippy, David, iii. 48 ; letter from, iii. 360
Whitman, Dr., iv. 396
Whaling, v. 457 ; grounds, Pacific, v. 487 ;

Atlantic, v. 490 ; Indian Ocean, v. 490
Whales, mode of catching, v. 496; number

of, V. 497 ; right whale fishery, v, 498
Whale-ship, difficulties on board of, v. 498 ;

scurvy, v. 501 ; advice to owners, v.

501 ; concluding remarks, v. 502

Whale-killer, ii. 297

Wilson, Rev. Mr., ii. 7

WiUiams, Rev. Mr., ii. 92, 161

Williams, Mr. John, ii. 93

Williams, J. W., Esq., ii. 160

Wine, Madeira, i. 21 ; New South Wales, ii.

183 ; Cape Colony, v. 429
Wingen, burning mountain o(^ ii, 270
Willamette River, ascent of, iv. 347 ; falls,

iv. 363; fishing, iv. 366; valley, iv. 341

Woolongong District, New South Wales, ii.
243 ; geology, ii. 245

Wollaston's Island, i. 142

Wolconsky Island, iv. 265

Wood, Robert, account of himself, v. 76

Women, Feejee, iii, 332

Wytoohee Island, i. 318; canoes, i. 319;
natives, i. 319 ; chief of, i. 321 ; pro-
ductions, i. 323 ; iiouses, i. 323

Yalangalala Island, iii. 251
Ya-asaua, iii. 256
Ya-sau-y-lau, harbour of, iii, 256
Yams, demand for, iii. 299

Yam Hills, Oregon, iii. 357

Yakima River, iv. 428, 468
Yendua Island, iii. 254
Yerba Buena, v. 152, 214, 249

Young, Mr., iv. 359 ; his farm, iv. 359
Young's Creek, v. 232
Ythata, iii. 249
Yungai, battle of, i. 293

Zonoma, town of, v. 196

THE END.