BY
LIEUT. G. K, WARRE N, “9 TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEER OF THE “SIOUX EXPEDITION.” —
= REPORT
THE SECRETARY OF WAR,
IN COMPLIANCE ith a resolution of the Senate of the oth anihay ealig for a copy of
country between the Missouri and Platte rivers and the Rocky csi S tains, together yack the maps accompanying the same. ©
‘May 7, 1856.—Read ; motion to print referred to the Committee on Printing. : ‘* resolved that it be not DS ” Mr. Wexxer, to amend by *‘not.’’ Postponed until to morro ‘ AY pee a 1856.—Amended, considered and agreed to. Ses agreed to as amended.
War DEPARTMENT . Washington, May 5, 1856, ~ Ait pa et with the resolution of the Senate of the 9th
n of the region of country
ation eee and the Rocky Mountains,
‘the maps accompanying ee ery respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFF’N DAVIS, Secretary of War. Hon. J. D. Bar ee ae resident ro im of the Senate.
War DepaRTMENT, Washington, March 26, 1856 gray 1 Engineer, Lieut + G. s staff, during the past year’s campal on between the Misuse and Platte ri and Rocky ¥ essed a brief and jsaereenng re
20 tage
REPORT.
to that officer, which contains much useful and newly acquired informa-_ tion respecting the country and routes, rivers and streams traversing : sc. The report and maps should be printed, as they will be very useful to the troops on that frontier and to travellers and emigrants. Very respectfully and truly yours, JEFE’N DAVIS.
Hon, Joun B. Wet Chairman Commitiee on Military Af aus; Senate.
‘Bureau or TopoGRaPHIcaL ENGINEERS, 3 ashington, Aprit10, 1856. Sm: In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 9th in-— stant, T have the honor to submit uc report and map of Lieutenant Warren, called for by that resolutio Respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, J.J. AB
Colonel Corps eee Engineers. ; Hon. J EFFERSON, Davia, Rerraiees of War.
i
Wasuineton D. C., April 9, 1856. Sir: IT have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of a report, made by order of Brevet Brigadier General W. 8. Harney, command- ing ‘‘Sicux Expedition,’ of my explorations in the Oras country — during 1855, as ee a lea eninee to the expediti It is accompanied by one ma a scale of 1: 600, 000, ‘and another _ van a pons of 1: 300,000, aig the | localities of the Indians, = cer- vague info rmation obtained from hunters of country not yet ex- lores Eastin tally. ee se maps contain nearly all the reliable map information concerning Nebraska. “ There is slo barometric section of the country between Fort Pierre © oe ok Kea n the sie to my report will be found an interesting memoir, _ ‘from Dr. I. V. Hayden, of examinations lately made = unt iS Nebraska. tal I am sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, G. K. WARRE
Lieutenant Ti Colonel J. J. A Spor aphical Engineers.
Chief Topsioyraghsod Engineer, Washington City.
CONTENTS.
ROUTES EXPLORED.
Indian names—Ge ology—Gener ral Leino salianek portions—Sandy Se _ Characteristics m4 each—Limits for settlements—Black Hills—Bear and hide Peaks—Th Bad Lands, les Mauvaises nee with a sketch—The Sand Hated les Buttes de sale: with a gc Fore du Missouri
RIVERS. a Missouri, description of, resources, navigation, &c.—Platte, description, &c.—Loup Fork—L’Eau qui Court—White river—Bad river, or Little Missouri river— Big Shyenne—Rivitre & Jaques, or James river—Vermilion—Big Sioux ..++.+++
ROUTES, TRANSPORTATION, &ce.
Fort Leavenworth to Fort Laramie—Mormon emigration, Fort Pierre to Fort Lara- _mie—Mouth of l’Eau qui Court to Fort Laramie—Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny, Fort Pierre to Sioux aepiabaa rt Pierre to Fort Ridgely—Fort Pierre to the Big Shyenne—Near the mouth of the Platte to the mouth of 1’Eau qui Court......
INDIANS, AND MILITARY POSTS. Sioux—Divisions of, viz: Mdewakantonwans, tlc meee Lage! incr * wans, Isanties, Ihanktonwans, Thanktonwannas, Titonwa: aie, Unkp ‘pas, ee a a Ogalalas ipehi numbers. de — ers i
oux—Of mouth of Moreau—Fort earny—Fort Laramie—Impracticability of istek campaigns—Prosecution of the so deren nnes—Crows—Mandans—Aricarees — Minni-
tares—A CONCLUSION.
a : Country ome to ‘be examined—Importance of information—Explana- tion of maps, &c.—Assistance sari ese pg aed in natural history—Journey
m Fort Brie to a Kearny. J
APPENDIX A.
m Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie—From Fort Lara-
des, apiads, sere magnetic declinations—Details of routes from Fort
to Fort Kearn ‘
to Fort eee , Fort = to Sioux DE oem from St. Louis of the Yi
e
CONTENTS...
APPENDIX B.
Survey of Fort Pierre reserve—Reconnaissance from Fort Pierre to Big Shyenne, and sketch
APPENDIX C. Z Report of September 4, 1855, and sketch of battle ground at Bluewater creek....... 38
APPENDIX D.
+ Meteorology—General remarks and explanations—Notes on the weather—Table I. Ob- servations, altitudes, and distances from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny—Table II. Distances and altitudes from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie—Table Ill. Hourly ee psychrometrical observations—Table 1V. Elastic force of vapor, hourly—Table V. Vn Elastic force of vapor, 7 a. m.,
e p.m.—Table VI. Hourly observa- tions of barometer No. 1014— Table Vil. tn observations of barometer No. 1013—Table VIII. Observations for-altitude of Fort Pierre—Table 1X. Correc- tions for daily curve of pressure
APPENDIX E.
Se note on section in ravine of Eau qui Court river, by W. P. Blake—Geological a n y D V. Hayden—Hy sri cfeengs basin of the Missouri— ae. seit of w ribet sbepione—t tau qui Court—White river—Teton o
a river—Shyenne river—Moreau, Grand, and Cannon Ball rivers—Little Missouri
Lands—Fossils from the Bad ande~esriy of atmosphere—Climate— Geographical distribution of plants and anima
MAPS.
A. Map of a portion of the Dacotah country, on a scale of 1 to 600,000, embracing all the @x- plorations within the limits compassed by it, including those of Major Long, J. N Nicolet, Captain Fremont, and Captain Stansbury.
2. Map, ona scale of 1 to 300,000, giving location of the different bands of indiana, such other information as could be obtained from the trappers and hunters
3. Barometric profile of route from Fort Pierre to-Fort Kearny
and
REPORT
OF
LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEER
OF THE
“SIOUX EXPEDITION,”
OF EXPLORATIONS IN THE DACOTA COUNTRY, 1855.
Wasutneton, D. C., March 15, 1856.
‘* Sioux Expedition’ required me to go up the Missouri: river to Fort Pierre, lay out a military reserve for that post, and examine the river as high up as the mouth of the Shyenne.
mouth of the Big Sioux, by the direct route through Minnesota.
ver the routes thus traversed, sketches and notes were taken, and collateral information was sought from every available source. I have given the Indian names, as well as the French and English, to objects and localities, and in writing the Dacota words have adopted, as far as possible, the spelling used in the Dacota Grammar and Dictionary, published by the Smithsonian Institution. Dacota being the proper name for the so called Sioux. *
The routes traversed lead over the great plains between the Missouri, the Platte and the Shyenne, and nowhere entered the mountains the geology of this interesting section, which is believed to be mainly of the tertiary and cretaceous formations, much new information has been gained by Dr. F. V. Hayden, who is at present preparing his ; results. To his preliminary report [in Appendix E] I would call especial attention on account of its general interest. on note concerning specimens of rock from a ravine on |’Kau qui
Court has been prepared by Mr. W. P. Blake, and will be found in Appendix E.
-* The letter a, is always sounded as in father; e, as in they; i, as in marine ch as in cherry.
6 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
muddy and difficult to ford.
In the’ sandy region the rain that falls sinks into the surface and does not run off suddenly nor evaporate; pure water in small lakes, springs, and clear running streams are the consequence, but they are
not numerous. The streams and lakes have sandy bottoms and are
easy to ford.
The grass in the clay region, is, as a general thing, superior to that in the other, being finer and more nutritive ; but along the banks of the streams, where the clay and sand in either region are mixed, there is not much difference. Wood generally exists along the banks of all the streams where it has not been destroyed by fire, or by the Indians
for forage and fuel. Pine timber is found on |’Eau qui Court, on the - southern branches of White river, and in the Black Hills. From my _ ; |
observation, I think that continuous settlements cannot be made in Nebraska, west of the 97th meridian, both on account of the unfavorable climate and want of fertility in the soil. Grasshoppers occasionally devastate the country, stripping it in places of almost.every green thing. The Black Hills of Nebraska are believed to be composed of primitive _ rock, and are the eastern portion of the great mountain belt. They are in somewhat detached ridges, ranging NW. to SE. and probably have their continuation in Snowy, Bears Paw, and Little Missouri, mountains of the upper Missouri and the Cyprus mountains, &c., in the British possessions. Bear Peak, between the forks of the Shyenne, as well as Raw Hide ' Peak, a little west of north from.Fort Laramie, is a detached portion of this range, and both believed to be of primitive rock. All the other hills, peaks, or buttes to the east of these are stratified rocks, the remains of vast denudation. The rocky precipices and rid
generally soft calcareous stone or marloccasionally capped with hard I
| ast along the jJatter stream as far as the forks. They belong to the tertiary period. Dr. Hayden thinks that the Bijou Hills are a part of the same forma- tion; and I should think, from thir appearance, the Dog’s Ears and t rm é i hey lie in an extended ridge, coming from the direction of the Bad Lands of White river, and have similar lithological character. i examination to detect any fossil remains. through the Mauvaises Terres from ite river, the surface is, in many places, covered with chalcedon hard ; in others it is clay, and in wet weather very soft. T
White river, between it and l’Eau qui Court, and on the Platte, aré —
I did not, however, make sufficient
$
’
eee
© OS DiS gee eh 2 OS eh ee ee, ip mom a ee te SRA SS Oe ee ae Ree ee a ee aie ee eng ie ee ee ee
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
some of them sandy. s are about two hundred
?
e clayey beds
this section some of the streams hay The precipitous ridges of*the Mauvai
ises Terre
a
BL pug oy) uy Asano,
foot hich, and are very str
(See sketch.) Black
.
in appearance. to be found here.
iking
.
eer and big horn are
EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
we vered.
i 3 A } o D ro + he I O54 oro @ S z oS oP Sas = 3 —— aoa > as a : E an a S > hes ae = ae Sw ° 3 = . ie re ibe oe rc ng = ov 4. fia % 3 i é3 ” RR 25 - : 7m 2) S5 a A ee I =| o o* a= = Sf Bs E ns = S etd kt oO pment a GY sd Oo: > Oo 4 ° Ss ms ae ae 5 be a Y = § re mS 8 ae ra 2 =i we Se © = % a ae S a : ae s PEO ran’ we a ee <4 ~ a So ea SS eee BS Ree a3 B:3 ies Se: ER pa fcenery in the Sand Tiills, (les Buttes de Sable,) Nebrasta. fo
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 9
with coarse grass and other apt their roots penetrating so deep that it is almost impossible to pull t ut e sand is formed into limited ‘eiianh, over the rims of which
are constantly passing up one side and down the other, the feet of the ; ees frequently sinking so as to make the progress excessively abori
The een is eee solitary, silent, and desolate, and de- pressing to one’s spirits. ntelope, an at sometimes buffalo, are numerous. This is the common war ground for the Dacotas, Urows,
quarter of a mile of an enemy’s camp Grithout the faites sound
I am told, increase in heig t, eg = are pe for horses. Their east and west limits are not well known, but they undonbtedly occupy nearly all the country between Loup Fork <a l’ Kau qui Court, and form a lasting barrier to any direct economical wheel communi- cation between them. Their width where we crossed is sixty miles. The country lying between the Republican Forkf the Kansas, and the South Fork of the Platte, described by Captain Fremont, (Senate Doe. No. ao ng tee 28th Congr ess, pp. 109, 110 ,) 1s most probably a similar re
The Citemns “dis Missouri, in Minnesota, has a soil of only two or three inches, beneath which is the cravel, &c., of the boulder forma- tion; it extends east nearly to te Vermilion river
RIVERS.
The a ane is the most important river as regards our dealings with the Dacotas. Flowing through the middle of their country, ‘it furnishes us ah a base from which, with short lines of march, we can reach almost any portion of their lands, and many of them have their permanent home upon its banks. My remarks upon it will be confined wholly to that portion a the mouth of the Shyenne, and which came under my own observatio
The bottom lands and some of the tates islands are from fifteen to twenty feet above low water, and rarely overflowed, though during the melting of the snows this sometimes happens. ‘he wood on these bottom lands, from being large and dense, as in the State of Missouri, gradually becomes thinner as we ascend to the mouth of the Vermil- ion, and above this it generally is only a narrow belt, varying from a single tree to groves half a mile in width, alter nating on either side,
or occupying a few of the larger islands; sometimes these, as Farm island, below Fort Pierre, and “the large island below the mouth of the shyenne, contain prairies in their interior. I believe, however, that timber sufficient for the wants of a military post exists everywhere
within reasona able distance on the Missouri, as _— up as the Big — : :
- ~ idem and above this the timber is said to impro
10 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTR¥ BETWEEN
The bottom lands on the Missouri, along the western boundary of Towa, as well as the prairie lands on either side, are very fertile. The valley of the Big Sioux, above its mouth, forms the continuation in direction of that of the Missouri below, and is said to be fertile. The Hupan Kutey prairie, lying between this stream and the Vermilion, is low and fertile, and is about the last of the continuous fertile country as you advance up the Missouri, which here comes from the west Above this the bottom lands of the Missouri are sometimes one and two
would furnish a handsome site for a military post. The same is true of the right bank of the Missouri, from White river to the Great Bend, at the former situation of old Fort Aux Cedres and Fort Look- out. Another éligible site is on the point ten to fifteen miles below the Shyenne. It is my opinion that no point above the Vermilion could be relied upon for many years to come to raise corn for the sup- port of a cavalry post; above this it must be transported.
me It cannot-easily be fo-ded, and shoals would prevent a boat from floating across, except :he be of very light draft and small dimensions. I am convinced, however, from what I have seen during a season of unparalleléd difficulties to navigation, that, with suitable preparation, the Missouri can always be relied upon as a channel to convey any necessary amount of supplies. The removal of some of the snags and boulders would greatly improve it, but even as it is, with a better knowledge of the channel on the part of those navigating it, and more suitably constructed boats, this stream would lose much _of its terror to them. .
_ L’Ban qui Court, during floods, throws out large quantities of sand, and leaves a bad bar in the Missouri. Another j
. . ? were men to cut it in the autumn, and haul it to good landings in the
My trip was made in the steamboat Clara, drawing 54 feet of water. She had to be lightened at the mouth of Eau qui Court, and again at the bar above the mouth of White river, and at the foot of the Great Be She was 39 days from St. Louis to Fort Pierre.
The Clara was so hard to handle when the wind blew strong, that she frequently could not be kept in the channel. The requisites of a good steamboat for Missouri navigation are, a strong bottom, a boiler that burns the minimum amount of wood, as little as possible of top —
The crossing of the Missouri at low water is very difficult by any 4 ans.®
It drains a portion of the Sand Hills, and has sevéral large tribu-
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 1s
hamper, wheels well forward, and considerable breadth of beam, so as to give as much control over her motions as possible. The Clara was the reverse of all this, but Captain Cheever, her commander, was a most skilful river man, and his untiring efforts overcame all difficul- ties.
The main rise on the Missouri occurs between April 20, and June 1.
The Platte river is the most important tributary of the Missouri in the region under consideration ; its broad and grass-covered valley lead- ing to the west, furnishes one of the best wagon roads of its length in America. From its mouth to the forks, the bluffs are from two to five miles from the water, making an intermediate bottom valley of from four to eight miles wide. From the forks to Fort Laramie, the bluffs occasionally come down to the water’s edge, and the road has to cross the points of the ridges. From Ash Hollow to Fort Laramie, the road is sometimes heavy with sand. Fine cotton wood grows along the banks, and on the islands, from the mouth to Fort Kearny ; from here up it is scarce, and of small size. Cedat§jis found in the ravines of the bluffs, in the neighborhood of the forks, and above. The river is about a mile wide, and flows oter a sandy bottem; when the banks are full, it is about six feet deep throughout, having a re- markably level bed; but it is of no use for navigation, as the’ bed is so broad that the water seldom attains sufficient depth} and then the rise is of short duration.
The water is sometimes so low, as was the case last season, that it can be crossed anywhere without difficulty, the only care requisite
being to avoid quicksands.
The manner in which this stream spreads out over its entire bed in low water, is one éf its most striking features, and it is peculiar to the rivers of the sandy region. short distance above Fort Laramie,
the Platte comes out from among the gorges and caiions, and its char-
acter there is that of a mountain stream.
Loup river, a large branch of the Platte, some 200 yards wide, is, where I saw it, in every respect similar to the latter below the forks, and a fine road could, without doubt, be made along its valley, which is about two miles wide. Its banks are low, like those of the Platte, but
ter wooded. THe Pawnees lived in numbers on this
are much ; ‘stream, till the hostility of the Dacotas drove them from their homes.
I have no knowledge of how far west this stream heads, but judge from its size that it must, be about the meridian of Ash Hollow.
night answer : ier ae in the floods, but would furnish no navi- — gat
Whi ite river rises about 35 miles east of the source of Rapid river, and in about the same latitude. Its course for the first 15 or 20 miles — is through a narrow gorge, thence it emerges into a broad, open valley, through which it flows for 90 miles, and then enters the high, — precipitous cliffs of the Bad Lands; it winds through these to the South Fork, and thence to its mouth it has a beautifully wooded and grassy valley of about one mile wide. Below the Bad La nds, its val-_ ley cannot be followed without frequently peice to the high prairie
_ bluffs. At the forks, the river is about 140 yards wide ; a short dis- tance above the mouth, about 200 yards. The south fork sash large :
from these streams is clear, and similar to Rapid river The Bad river, Wakpa ‘Shicha, a or Little Missouri river, 18 about 90 miles long, rising just east of the Bad Lands. The same difficulty is experienced as with the lower part of White eae if you. attempt to follow along its valley. The valley is from on - mile wide, well grassed and wooded. The bed of the is and miry, an peiaet 3 not = The scrpebaolk ~ the he valley is not difficult for wagons in dry weather. Cottonwood exists in con- * siderable 5 a a mixed with wallow, and in some places, ash and plum trees are abundant. ortion of this valley is ~ adapted to Screg Indian corn. When flooded, the river is from 25 to 40 yards wide, “and cannot then be crossed without a good bridge or ferr am not informed of the extent to which it overflows its immediate banks, which are about 10 feet high." This stream flows _ through a section abounding in salt springs, and salt incrustations are almost everywhere visible, but the water is generally palatable. hyenne, Washté Wahpa a or Good river, rises west of the Black Hills. Th .. per fork, it is said, breaks through, as in the case of aramie ri The ech about 100 miles from the mouth. — south rk: oa not far from the source of |’ Eau <p Court. After leav-
not easily crossed. Fine cottonwoodse : pine on its soufces in the Black Hills.
rafting, e Riviere & Jaques, or James river See Mini Wakan, or Devil’ cle, in latitude ie 30’ north, and flows thro acdc os rT é wi ta
this stream at all — high water. ‘There is
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 13
much wood on its banks, and the country bordering is not valuable for agricultural purposes, and posseses few resources. ermilion has a good ford nearly in a direct line from Fort Pierre to Sioux city, the stream being about 20 yards wide; below this point it is difficult to ford. The valley is broad and not all overflowed. There is some timber along its margin, and the country adjoining is fertile. I consider it about the western limits of agricultural lands.
muddy, and not fordable. The soil of the land bordering it is good and productive, and the stream is fringed with cottonwood. It will no doubt be valuable for steamboat navigation. A ferry is being es- tablished at its mouth.
ROUTES, TRANSPORTATION, &c.
the surface, is gravel or sand, and ordinary rains do not seriously affect it. In crossing the divide from the south fork to the north, we gain the summit by easy slopes, but the descent is very sudden into Ash
take a loaded wagon up this steep. Ash Hollow is bounded on all
Platte, but at a point so near the Fort that they might be left on the north side in charge of a detachment from the garrison. The route along the south side of the Platte has at least to cross the south fork, which, in the time of melting snows and spring floods, would occasion serious delay. I am not, therefore, prepared to say whether Fort
Laramie could be best supplied from Fort Leavenworth, or from the
ol points of oe of the Mormon emigration near Florence, above the - mouth of the Platte; the distance of land transportation is . favor of the latter. The —, of wood along the Platte is
very seld route could be found leading up Behe Fork towards its source, an then crossing over to the Platte—it should be exam
by steamboats up the Missouri. I believe the steamboat transportatior perfectly practicable up to Fort Pierre for any requisite amount ofa provisions and stores, yet they could not be relied upon to reach there before the 15th of July, and the cost would be considerable. Th a land eee would then be 323 miles. But the road, even in ood seasons is rough and contains numerous hills, requiring heavy
river, the road is in the last ‘degree bad at all times; there is reason, however, to think that this portion could be avoided. But when we consider that the os for transportation from Fort Pierre to 5 aramie must be procured from the States at a distance of 500 to miles, it is. doubtful “if at t any time economy would select this rotite a8 _ a channel through which to supply Fort Laramie. 4 ery much in the same light must we view the project of supplying Fort Laramie from “ mouth of Rapid river, supposing a post estab- lished at that point, viz: the distance one hundred to four hundred — miles, from which the means of land transportation must be obtained and the probable difficulties of the route itself. This proposed road — would have to keep on the divide north or south of Rapid river, and — most probably to the north, or if it entered the valley would be forced to cross the stream frequently, or take again to the bluffs. Unlike the: Platte, or the main ortion of White river now followed by the
ut bei we should have to make frequent deto s to find %
confined to the divide. 4 urs to find camps if we are e country is sandy and ag road would be good i there i is | g00 dg good in wet weather:
5 acne from Sioux City to Fort = “the sg Fire Steel or weit Mad there is a ae nh
‘THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC
far, and a good ford in low stages across the Vermilion and James rivers. Scarcity of e is a serious objection to winter travel. A better route in cold weather, or when the streams are flooded, though somewhat longer, ea nearer the Missouri, crossing the Vermilion and James rivers at their mouths, and at these two places ferry boats
E should be provided. I have no special information concerning the route from Fort Pierre robably good and very direct, but James river
and Tort oo between Fort Kearny and Fort Laramie, between rors Laramie and Fo iy pial and os Fort Fae and Sioux city, will be found at the end of this repor
te A good road could be had from near the Be of the Platte iy the
g00 ‘mouth of l’Eau qui Court, following the Elk Horn river; it ha sel by the American Fur Coma but I have no definite ae
tion concerning i INDIANS AND MILITARY POSTS.
_ The Dacotas occupy most of the country we have been consider ass and are scattered over an immense territory, extending from the _ sissippi on the east to the Black Hills on the west, and from the oa of the Platte on the south to Devil’s Lake on the north. ‘‘They say heir name means leagued or allied,”’ and they sometim@s speak of themselves as the ‘ ‘Ocheti Sha aowni, or ‘Seven Council ice _ These are the seven principal bands ‘hich compose the nation, v 1. The Mde-wakan-tonwans, meaning village of the Spirit ake? “2. Wahpekutes, meaning leaf shooters. “3. Wahpe-tonwans, meaning village in “4. Sisi-tonwans, meaning village of the mars ‘These four constitute the Mississippi and Minnesota Dacotas, and ay called by those on the Missouri ‘‘ Jsaniies.’’ They are estimated. t 6,200 souls. Some of these are said to give much trouble to the ttlers in northwestern Iowa and in Nebraska, and are charged with utrages during the past season. Fort Ridgely i is in their coun 5. The Ihanktonwans, village ap the end, (Yanktons,) sometimes
a
e leaves. i
-
16 == ~~ ~—s‘« EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN ©
They fought against the Uphiec States in the war of 1812, and thei
chief went on a visit to England. ‘‘ From the Wazikute branch 0
this band the Assinniboins, or Hohe of the Dacotas, are said to hav
spru
a a. The Titonwans, village of the ae are supposed to constitut more than one-half of the whole Dacota nation They live on thi
western side of the Missouri, and take iii their range the Blacl
Hills from between the forks of the Platte to the Yellowstone river
the whites “yee mares, have never planted corn. hey are dividec
‘into seven bands, v
1. Unkpapas, i, y hal camp by themselves. They live on the Mis souri near the mouth of the Moret, and roam from the Big Shyenne up to the Yellowstone, and west to the Black Hills. They formerly ees extensively with the Shyennes. They number about 36é
3 Sikihecas Blackfeet. Haunts and homes same as the Unkpapas number 165 lodges. These two bands. have very Aes =e i. the power of the whites e-non-pas, two 0 boilings or two kettle band. These th rnuch scattered among other bands. They number aft “10¢ ory iP Schangus, burnt thighs, Brulés, claim the country along Whit
river and contiguous to it. They number 480 lodges. They. include the Wazazhas, to which belonged Matoiya, (the Scattering Bear’ made chief of all the tae by ‘the gover nment, and who was killec by egmenant Gratta
5. Ogal they oh live in the mountains, live between the forks of the Platte, and number 360 lodges
nikanyes, they who plant by ‘the water, ~ aoe and between the
forks of “the Shyenne and in the Black Hills ; r ges. F
7. Itahzipchois, Bowpith, Sans Arc, cla aim ak common with the Minseaayes, and number 170 lodges. These last two binds have been exceedingly troublesome to the emigration.
e Daco tas, on and west of the Missouri, which it oe all b
the Isanties, are the only ones I have heard estimated. IT should nin that eight inmates to a lodge, and one-fifth of them warriors,
[= ple. allowance. We would then have
thanktonwans, (Yankto ag e eet nwann: as (Ya btn : ; 800 6 400 Unkpapas 365 9'920 Sihasapas, ( (Blackfeet) 165 1 980 ee ey cre . 100 "800 Sichangt, ( (Bro Raraci: 480 3,840 cif 9 2,
Minikany vcaee, 900.2 201.600 Isp (Sans Arc) ....0.. oo ee 1,360 Total . veveeee 9,000 24,000
These Dacotas formerly all lived around the headwaters of the |
Bit ete le al ty ee
id
terms) in advance, leaving their name
river, to the Big Shyenne of the Missouri, and to the section of coun- try they now occupy between the Platte and the Arkansas.
In the summer the Dacotas follow the buffaloes in their ranges over the prairie, and in the winter fix their lodges in the clusters or fringes of wood along the banks of the lakes and streams. The bark of the cottonwood, which furnishes food for their horses during the winter snows, have led to immense destruction of this timber, and many streams have been thinned or entirely stripped of their former beauti- ful groves. .
Their horses are obtained by traffic with the Indians further south, - who have stolen them in New Mexico, or are caught wild on the plains towards the Rocky mountains. The nation is one of the most skilfull and warlike and most numerous in our Territory; and could they be |
eir 0 be most
made to feel a due confidence in their own powers, would
formidable warriors. In single combat on horseback they have no
_ superiors—a skill acquired by constant practice with their bows and
arrows and long lances, with which they succeed in killing their game at full speed. The rapidity with which they shoot their arrows, and the accuracy of their aim, rivals that of a practiced hand with the —
cholera, it is the opinion of some that they are increasing in numbers
virtue. The love of renown and desire for plunder leads them far from their —
homes, and many of the depredations along the Platte are committed
by the Unkpapas and Sihasapas, whose homes are further from it than
those of any of the Titonwans. The Isanties or Dacotas of the St.. Peter’s also carry their ravages into Nebraska, and are there the most - dreaded of all the savages.
- When any redress or reparation is sought, or punishment threatened for these offences, the same excuse is always made: ‘‘The old men (it, but the young men could not be restrained.’’ So long as
ue pane rtp : ga the smiles of the females, the admiration of his comrades, and ulti-
: mate influence with his tribe continue to be the reward of daring ex- _ ploits, these, to say nothing of the Indian’s often absolute necessities,
will prove too strong in the breast of the youthful warrior for the
~ counsels and frowns of age, or for the peaceful policy of the Indian Bureau
Military occupation is essential to the safety of the whites, and the
military posts should be in such positions, and occupied by such num-_
"
bers, as effectually to overawe the ambitious and turbulent, and sus- —
Ex. Doc. 76-——2
18 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
western limits on our great plains; the tracts beyond must ever be
occupied by a pastoral people, whether civilized or savage. If the
— is not doomed to speedy extirpation, if he is to have a perma- ere is where it must be located, and the military posts
shoul oon teceplnke a permanency which they have not heretofore pos- ‘ sed.
“Posts situated near the Indians’ homes, designed to restrain, might be bisa fe infantry, = they should be large from the outset, to com Those situated near the settlements
_ which the
sprin
With good commanders, and forces sufficient to sustain them in the measures they ve take for chastising or restraining the Indians, = protecting them from the injustice of the whites, peace can be m tained without exterminating the red man, — manliness has eek to admire, and w ate deserves our sym
aaa. the stlistiete I have mentioned, [ mould recommend that infantry post be maintained in the neighborhood of Fort Pierre. all ae cs Sr occupied in the Dacota country this is the most
. Goo
~
a ee. at wa
th of this route. be kept up at the
a On Mean of. the Platte, Fort = must, for a lo — the frontier aetticonen tt, and is a necessary post for the protec-
is one, and makes a most valuable point for pr
So fee ee
time, be |
Fort Laramie act always be in the Indian country as eleeg as there to travel.
x
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, BTC.
West of Fort Laramie temporary protection should be afforded, when _ sarees by patrols and escorts, and also between Forts Laramie and _ Kearny
= ~ Not Seed than one regiment, four eee a at Fort Kearny, and . six at Fort oe should be kept = A
If active operations are to be cfrried on during the coming season in e Dacota country, it is against them the forces casa be di rected, from both Fort Laramie and Fort Pierre.
punishment inflicted on the Brulés and Ogalalas at Blue Water “has taught them a useful lesson, which they will not soon forget.
he Pawnees, about eight hundred warriors, with whom the ‘Dacotas are at war, and the Poncas, three hundred warriors, with whom the are friendly, occupy the southeastern part of Nebraska : to the south- west are the Shyennes, one thousand, between whom and the Ogalala _ Dacotas the most friendly relations exist, The Crows, a powerful and _ warlike tribe, occupy the country between the Black Hills and Wind << = mountains, about the sources of the Yellowstone. They made
_ a treaty of peace with the Dacotas at Horse a in 1849, but they 4 on enemies at heart. The small bands of Mandans, Aricarees, and _ Minnitares, and the powerful one of the Ansimatboinas are on the north. ©
CONCLUSION.
Very little is known as to the accurate geography and topography of Crow country and Black Hills, and, in fact, of any portion of
ie west of the Mieaaick and the road from Fort Pierre to Fort
The sakes causes that brought on the war with the Sioux will, no
Semeninanchdatio on te canis ts Con ngress, thr rough the proper channel, an appropriation of $50,000, for military and geographical e xplo-
braska. :
A reconnaissance, which could be madg at small expense on the Far mpan Pthe Missouri river from Fort | lowstone ; one should also be made
20 cu EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
of Loup Fork of the Platte, and of the country between White river and 1’Kau qui Court, for the purpose of seeking good communication between Fort Laramie and the Missouri river. Routes from Fort Laramie to the Yellowstone, and of the country around and between
Accompanying this report is a map of a portion of the Dacota country, on a scale of 1 to 600,000. It embraces all the explorations — within the limits compassed by it, including those of Major Long, J.
} the observations and results are appended to this report. A baro- fi
also | location of the different bands of Indians, and such other information _ as I was enabled to obtain from the hunters and trappers. ough it is not reliable where surveys have not been made, stillitisthe bestthat our pr ge will i oe
ewitt, — alpin, Henry Goulet, Alexander tatements I have endeavored to
_ com To Mr. J. Hudson Snowden, who assisted me in the meteorological
observations, and in working out the results, nearly all the merit is
due which they may possess. These observations and results, with
notes on the weather on all - routes travelled, are annexed to this
report, under the head of meteorology. .
A. number of skins of birds were collected, among which were the
| THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 21
= oF Bad river, in longitude 102°, the white-headed avoset, (Recur-
— 103°. The first of these has hitherto only been found near the Pacific
a B nitric fit is, erhaps, proper to allude here to the journey performed from _ Fort Pierre to Fort Kearn ny, since nearly all the knowledge I have : eee ,and whatever service I may have rendered, resulted immediately rom
When I was preparing for the undertaking, and had secured a party
of six persons, exclusive of Mr. Carrey and myself, I was counselled
- most earnestly by my brother ‘officers not to make it, and the com- _Mmanding officer at Fort Pierre thought nae of interposing his
_ authority as my military superior to prevent so “‘rash’’ an atte mpt,
_ which presented to him nothing but a prospect of th my certain detent tion. The route was known to lead through the ona’ of the cea” (supposed to be our worst enemies,) an nothing was _ known as to their position or intention.. We would, also, it was said,
2 treat the sone oe Pawnees, and neither would hesitate to rob, or
areful conversation with the men of the country. e weather was o warm, it being the first of August, for the war parties to ave formed, and it was the season for making “© sweet corn ,’ so tha
he Indians would likely be thus engaged. The e party was made up of he most experienced prairie men, four of them bein g half-breed Dacotas, and we were well armed; we were determined to be con-
o fire Mr. Galpin, of the Fur Sith patty ‘assured me ea didn not be-
rulés in the Sand Hills, and some deserted Pawnee camps on Lo York, but no Indians. We performed the journey in fifteen days. : _ I was thus enabled to carry roe hs instructions under which I had gone é to Fort Pierre to participate in the campaign under Gener arney, and perform the taitiba required of me as topographical eer of the expedition, hope this explanation will free me from any charge of having acted with ea or imprude
22 j= #XPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
vation west of the 97th meridian ; that the Territory is occupied by —
rful tribes of roving savages, and is only adapted to a mode of — ife such as theirs ; that it must long remain an Indian country ; that — the Indians should be made to feel the power of the United States; — that the military posts, in consequence, should contemplate perma- nency ; that Forts Laramie and Pierre are the most important positions
r, sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, —
uate Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.
Brevet Brig. Gen. W. F. Harney, ~ : U. S. army, commanding Sioux expedition.
be eR IEE ov a at gl
_ DETAILS OF ROUTES.
Latitude, longitude, altitude, and magnetic declination.
APPROXIMATE. Place. Latitude. | Longitude. | Altitude. | Mag. var.
“ . an hice ly aor é i" 1 7 omar, ® ot pes of
° oy Feet.
Fort Ridgely... Cx MBE O95 07 eh Sioux City 42 32 96 26 | 1,250 Fort Kearny 40 38} 9906 | 2,000 Fort Pierre 4493:| 10024:| 1,504 Fort Laramie... 42 12: 10431; | 4,250
ee a eae
Description of route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.
NOTES. Mie
we ; ss Distance from
| Fort Pierre. Fort Pierre, situated on a high bottom land on the right bank
: of the Missouri river—grass very scanty, there having been no spring rain. Left Fort Pierre, Aucust 8, 1855.
( tom land—a dark, sticky, clay soil, with sage.
growing mpon it, for two miles; then crosses a high, nar-
ge to Bad river, at a good ford, with
rock m. When flooded, must be ferried, 4} miles
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
Preven a from Fort Pierre.
_~ Bad river—Wakpa Shicha—is sometimes called Little Missouri, sometimes Teton river---wood and grass fine.
August 9.—Road over high rolling prairie; crosses the sources of Antelope river and Cedar river, - east branch of Medi- cine river. After passing the divide of ee Bh soil good, with fine grass. These ites in dry s gene- rally contain water in holes, and have aval aoa and willow on their banks, ‘furnishing fuel. They are from 10 to a feet wide, an d their banks from 4 to 5 feet high. Whe n occupied with running water, bed will be found dade, and should be crossed carefully. From Bad
+» river to Antelope.river, 94 miles ee - - 13% Thence to Cedar creek, 94 miles Z - 232 Thence to East branch of Medicine river, 10 miles 334
August 10.—Crossed Medicine river just below the e forks saw a fresh ‘track of a buffalo bull, 2 miles _ voce. S854
About 5 Erion further on we gain the divide between Measonre
n ite rivers—soil is now rather poor, and the ridge setae a some small lake bees, which have water in the : sprin 404
From this a looking south, the whole horizon south of White river is occupied with high broken prairie ridges and peaks. We roeb on this high lake ridge about 4 miles, and descend a line of bluffs, along the foot of which are the sources of the side branches of White river ; thence to White river, 8 miles 524 The road to-day was good —erfas rather thin, aan no wood nor
water. ugust 11.—White river—Mankisita W.—High from recent rain, but falling. Spent the day examining zp. and down the stream, and forded it in the afternoon. ford isa fair one, with rocky bottom, but it must be carefully eXx- amined on " foot before crossing, and every animal should be led or ridden over, as the least wandering from the proper
course may mire it inextricably. e stream is now 480 wide, water muddy, of a white color, 1 to 3 feet deep, its immediate banks some 5 feet higher. e forded it
at the highest stage of water practicable, if higher it must be ferried. The valley is about one mile wide, and nearly all overflowed i in freshets. The bluffs are 100 feet high, and loaded Wagons could ascend and descend without dif fi
luxuriantly, and elk, deer, and antelope may be found in ela numbers. About 20 miles above this ford are the
Augist 13. —Road over slightly rolling prairie. In about 2 miles pass near Oak cre at thence 8} miles to small branch of Two-tail aon, 11 mil 3
ee
_ This is a beautiful stream of clear water, about twenty yards
*,
24 -—S- EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN :
Distance from : Fort Pierre. Here wood for fuel, and good grass; continuing on with Tw tail cr 2 miles east, over good route, to head of this
stream, 9 miles - : - - - - T2h 4 At this place the stream is 15 to 20 feet wide, water in holes, : bank 5 to 10 feet feet high, bottom generally sandy, grass good in spots, cottonwood, cak, and willow, good size
reached the Platte river. The soil is now becoming sandy. High table-land ridges were about 5 miles to the west, said _to have springs at their base, and here Two-tail creek has
: its source.. August 13.—Route good to a head branch of Dog’s Ears creek, 142 miles - - ~ - - ~ Here clear spring water in considerable quantity, good grass, ut no wood; some trees flourish 2 to 3 miles further down. The soil has now become exceedingly sandy, but generally covered with grass. On the ridges a soft calcareous sand- stone crops out, and we are now in the region that 3 character to the distant view to be had from the northern divide of White river. These ridges havea general south-
east direction.
The Dag’s Ears hills,(Les Buttes des Oreilles de Chien,) two small prominent hills of this sandstone formation, lie about two miles to the east of us, and have served as a landmark since leaving White river, We now cross an easy divide, and enter the basin of White lake, a clear, beautiful little sheet of water, much resorted to by the Indians. The basin is very sandy, but covered with vegetation, and here
. we first meet with the sand cherry, the fruit being as large
toward which you proceed over rolling, grass-covered sand. rT
wide, which, flowing over a sandy bottom , Tenders it easy “a to ford; the immediate banks are three to four feet high.
Large and magnificent cottonwood grows on its banks, but the trees merely fringe the stream. Wild plums and cher- ries abound ; the grass is excellent, and a small portion of its valley could be used for raising corn, This river is a
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. — 95
Distance from Fort Pierre.
White river, and is a tributary to Rapid river. White lake lies about half-way from the Dog’s Ears to Turtle Hill; there are a few trees on its banks ; the beach is white sand. Tracks of buffalo bulls had now become frequent, Sa and in White lake basin we saw a wild horse. - . _ August, 14.—Route passes along the right bank of Turtle Hill iver for 6 miles, crossing a little branch with running ; ater ; gradually leaving the river we strike a branch 4 miles further on, with running water, but no wood, and ursue it to near its source; thence over sandy prairie to apid river, 244 miles, all the way sandy; a little wild rice-was seen. Rapid river—l’Eau qui Court, or Nio- brara, is a name given it by the Ponca Indians; the Daco- tas eall it ‘‘ Mini Tanka”’ or Big Water. It flows witha | a very swift current over a sandy bed, and between blufis os! 140 feet high, which here approach each other so closely as to leave but a very narrow intermediate valley, not aver- aging one quarter of a mile. - - - - 1254 stream is from 180 to 250 yards wide at the ford, 3} to 4 "s eet deep in the deepest places, and the current so strong — i ’s feet ; the intermediate bot-+
100%
ae ©
springs of water. All the ravines are filled with pine, (some of it 60 to 70 feet high,) scrubby oak and some ash ; on the low bottom lands there is some little cottonwood.
but, as we were likely in pursuing it to meet war parties of savages, we determined to take the more direct and un-—
26 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Distance from
Fort Pierre.
ere route through the = Hills, —— none of the party had ever been this
August 1b. —Travelled over oliig: ine hills ten to forty feet high, increasing in height and abruptness as we advanced ; clothed with grass and interspersed with sedgy lakes, having inn bottoms, in some of which are small fis h. There is no wooc mall willows, dry roots of the sand cherry, and wild rose, = i. buffalo chips’ furnished fuel in’ small quantities. Can camp almost anywhere near the small ponds. Saw 2a buffalo bulls, and —e were thick. Days march 273 miles.
dag 17.—Winding among the sand hills, ehick frequently forced us quite ‘out of our course, and beginning to fee some anxiety as to what we were coming to, we enadenls — from them into the maey of Calamus en =
This - aanaeel to te, a iiaooks of Loup Fork of the Platt ts valley is 14 miles wide, the stream. about yards widla, water clear, 1 to 3 feet deep, immediate ect seenk
4 feet high, easily forded ; no wood exists where we crossed, e
as seen about 5 miles further down ; grass luxuriant; travelled on and camped at a small pond i in the sand hills ; ae sand hills to-day very bad ; 4 miles -
Au. 18.—After winding through and over very bad san hills for 12 miles, we suddenly issued from them into the broad valley of a stream, which was supposed to be a branch of = oup Fork. Travelling didiagiates across the
valley we reached the river, which, in the absence of any”
10 |
known name, was called Warren’s fork. Fourteen and miles —
a half This is scieat running stream, 150 paca site; spread ently
The stream does not, sa exiviioi its rior which : are now 3 to 4 feet above the water. Continuing our
Pawnee, Loup, or Wolf a a nasil of the Platte, is here 220 wide, a out. over its whole bed, and whee more than 3 feet deep. The water is clear and ihe
+> and lined with medium sized cottonwood trees and willow.
senor: pees some dry ed, but steep ravines, we’
the immediate banks about 4 to 8 feet high, :
1324
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
cut u e impracticable at this place for wagons, and we ought to have gone down the stream 8 or 10 miles.) Having gained the ridge, our route was good, over high prairie, 4 with some dry lake beds, and no wood nor permanent water = to Muddy creek, 19} miles - .
Muddy creek here’is a small running stream, twenty feet wide, with banks ten feet high, and steep, with muddy bottom, and is troublesome to cross; grass good; wood scarce, but
lenty lower down. Fresh signs of buffalo now wer
Fi,
abundant, and several bulls were seen to-day. ' A -20.—Route led us over many secondary ridges and After going 14 miles crossed Beaver creek, a small running
stream, a little larger than Muddy creek, to which it is in every respect similar, but has considerable wood along its banks, and beaver dams in the stream. Continued on
.. for 5 miles ; camped at a poor water hole, with no wood ;
| : i | | valleys, and was laborious for the animals. .
- day’s march 19 miles ~—- - - - A 91.—Route to-day good. Reached in 12 miles a clear stream, fifty yards wide, with sandy bottom, banks fro
rea y 4 to 10 feet high, and lined with cottonwood and willow ;
os 31 miles - - - : _ The crossing of the Platte gave us no trouble, as it was no ~~~ where more than 1 foot deep, and spread out. over its bed, here a mile wide; the slough north of Grand island is about 30 yards wide; the banks of the Platte are 4 to 5 feet above the bed; the valley is 5 to 8 miles wide, and _ rarely overflowed. ks ee
a7
Distance from Fort Pierre.
234
210° 8
28 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Route from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie.
Distance from Fort Kearny.
map 24, 1855.—Marched 10 miles over fine road, and en mped. on Ao Platte ; Bee BOO > no road on south ive . of tl the August 25. fea fins: buffalo numerous. Chiaped: on the Platte; good grass, but no wood; day’s march 194 miles August 26. ” “Road nos ; crossed Plum creek about 4 miles from morning camp ; buffalo along the route ; camped on the Platte; good Bee no wood; day’s march 18 miles - August 27. —Road good ; camped on the Platte near the foot of Brady’s island ; buffalo plenty ; day’s march 17} miles Aug pew 28.—Road eood ; camped at Cottonwood spring, a fine e of cool water ; “no water in the Platte.this side of the isla some little wood ; cedar plenty on the bluffs south of the ’ road ; Ee re to-day all bulls ; aay, s march 234
miles ‘Augul 29, Road fine ; “aanped at a water hole about 2 miles from the south fork ; Brees good , ae scarce a and all of them bulls ; ; day’s aria thr h 18 August 30.—Road good ; crossed 0° Fallen’s Mu (not high ) | ead asnied about 2 miles eyond, on a «slough ; ; Woo
ood ; wood ; day’s march 153 miles -
September ae a Bind to-de ey somewhat muddy from att night’ s rain ; camped on the river ; grass Books no wood ; day’s march 214 miles -
September 2 _—Reai ched cr ossing of south dork, 5 miles from morning camp; stream about 700 yards wide, crossing
easy, water 18 inches to 2 feet deep; camped just above : Ash Hollow on the north ad grass thin ; a little cedar Ps wood on the bluffs ; day’s m rch 24 3 mile: g The descent into Ash Hollow is "vet steep, and mach labor wo required to pe GN it permanently, as the slope is in part of rock. I examined the locality for a half a wel and faata no place naturally superior to the one now
: Septenibae 5, 6, 1 and 8 Wate: spent in recruiting the dhtmnall ; reconnoitering, and constructing Fort Grattan, &e. _ September 9.—Road ; camped ie the river ; good Breet, ;
1893
1923
zp
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 29 Distance from ; : Fort Kearny. fine cool stream of water ; 8 miles further came to Ancient ) Ruins bluffs, which are so close to the river that we were obliged to go over the ridge; the slopes are gradual, but on the west side the sand is thick; road to-day in placeg j heavy with sand ; camped on the river; grass fine ; day’s arch 181} miles - - - - . September 11.—Road good ; river makes considerable bend and there is a fine grassed bottom between it and the road ; there were many deer in it; we passed Court House rock on the south side; camped on the river, with good grass,
i but no wood; day’s march 18} miles - September 12.—To-day passed Chimney Rock on the south side & of the stream; the river forms here another large bend, making the road near the bluffs some 2 to 3 miles off; there is x another road not much longer, near the river, which is good in dry weather ; camped on the Platte; grass good ; : a little wood ; day’s march 254 miles - - - 2742 September 13.—After marching 12 miles, we came to a place : where the bluffs approach close to the stream, and here is
a fine spring creek with good grass and wood, extending
along south of the road for 3 miles; we passed on, and
camped on a sedgy slough, with good water and grass,
but no wood ; day’s march 17} miles - - ~ 292 Road to-day good; passed Scott’s Bluffs about half way. September 14.—Road good; day’s march 18 miles - = - +310 Passed another fine spring creek, which runs parallel with the
road, on the south side, for 4 miles, and camped on the
2493
at the head of this creek.
September 15.—Road to-day in places heavy with sand ; wood all along the Platte, but no grass; crossed the dry sandy bed of Raw-hide creek, about 9 miles from camp ; campe
‘ opposite the mouth of Laramie river; no grass; day’s
: ‘march 25 miles = - - - - ay eter
September 16.—Nearly all the animals were sent about 15 miles up the Laramie river to pasture, but even there grass was
5 oor. Fhe esa from Ash Hollow to Fort Laramie, on the south
side of the north fork, as given in Captain Stansbury’s report, is 1494 miles; by the north side it is 1454 miles.
Route from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre. s
. - Distance from
Fort Laramie. —
Fort Laramie is situated on the north side of Laramie river, 1 mile from the Platte. There are two ways of reachin,
White river from this fort that have been travelled with
30. EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
sey am seein
wagons ; one of them, as described to me by Mr. Poclings,
is to go down the Platte about 8 miles, then north, cross- ing Raw-hide creek in 8 miles; thence to first fork of Spgon-hill creek, 12 miles; thence to the second fork, four miles; thence to V Eau qui Court river, 12 miles ; travel
down |’Kau qui Court, 12 miles; then go north 12 miles to be head of Deadman’s creek ; then along it 6 miles to White a river ; the last 6 miles are bad ; this route then joins the ?
other, and is probably preferable. The army took the other route, which str — White river near its source. The route is as follow ; ae — 29, 1855. a eS the north fork of the Platte 1 | e from the fort ; river about 130 yards wide, water in 2 ilages 3 feet deep, current strong, bottom hard with ec boulders, stream not fordable when high: camped a: | spring hole; grass bad, no woo aoe road good, a ome wily
containing 1 2 me Marhed 934 miles tol Eau qui Court river, road
soe no intermediate camping place ; a little water can ie had 4 miles from morning camp. L’ Hau qui Court here is from 10 to 15 feet wide; clear running water, bneea on fish, bottom sandy ; grass ; fine ; no wood—formerly there was ‘plenty, but it has been used up by the mie fee pee heads 8 near Raw-hide peak ; saw numerous bands of buffalo
-
to-day - 4 October 2.—Marched 1g miles to near the salad of White river; s road good ; descent to the stream very steep; stream 4 to s! = wide, with large holes, water clear, © ottom sandy ; ass good; no — except small willows ; fuel plenty 1
other. Exact source of the river not ‘kno wn. Sak October 3.—Marched 11 miles down White river, crossing it 11 “- ee. 3 immediate banks not high and bottom hard ; the ;
: gins no ww to widen out; grass goo October 4.—Crossed the stream, marched
on the right bank at sk He mouth of De ¢ miles an | camped
adenine s aged ; grass
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
Along White river good grass and wood will be found at almost every point the remainder of the way; the road is gen- erally fine in dry weather, but, being clayey, is very heavy in wet seasons. The high rocky bluffs recede on the south side to a distance of from five to twenty miles, and in the north are only eccngen pails to be seen. Beaver abound in all the streams, and deer along the banks; the bottom of the stream is generally muddy and care must be used in approaching it. The route continues along the stream till forced away by the high bluffs of the Bad Lands.
Uctober 5,—Crossed White Clay creek with ease, 83 miles from
morning camp ; water of a milky color. White river, be-
fore clear, now assumes a white tinge; crossed White river
8 miles epee on. Das march. 174 maslea; ‘aes good,
and crossing ea
October 6. = Magched 16 miles ; “lds 8 mules “ road Po bee
several wagons being overturned, and many: things broken
earing. October 7. aw ched 194 miles; road soa, pia a foie cross- ings side ravines; these might be much mare ;
eros are two or three considerable hills. October 8, icc 16 miles; road good: Sharp-tailed grouse quite numero Uses 9. a a "Butte Caché abet: 2 pathos from morning amp; this is so low as to be hidden by the trees; the losatisy is a favorite resort for.the Indians in winter, and the Fur Company have built trading houses here, which are now abandoned. Crossing White river at a good ford half a mile further on, we meen on the night bank; day’s march 14 miles; roa October: 10.—Passed through a mall: Aeribed ats the Bad Lends day’s march 64 miles. Camped on the right bank, one mile above Wounded Knee creek, a favorite resort of the In- dians. Two miles below this, a very hi gh ridge of the Bad Lands comes down to the river. The road now leaves White river and, proceeding directly throngh the Bad Lands, gains the side branch of the Shyen White river continues its way through the high precipitous se of Bad Lands, from which it emerges near the fork, a distance in a straight line of 95 miles. There are no streams of any size running into it on the left bank, but on the south or right bank there are many, from 20 to 40 miles long, with clear running waite “~ are — resorted to by the Indians. October 11.—Crossed White river, ere. 40 ane ile: good ford, and fairly entered the Bad Tenis ; road fair i in =. ary weather, but crooked; camped at Ash Grove spring,
situated on a ridge; grass good; ash wood plenty, and - good water. There are very deceptive miry places in the —
Distance from Fort Laramie.
32 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Distance med Fort Larami
a Er and the animals Pek Sees saa s march, 183} miles; no intermedi
animals. Spring on the side hill furhishaud good water, but quantity limited. Some ash wood around the Sec iar grass indifferent. Day’s march 13} miles.
October 13.—Nine miles from morning camp, crossed Sage creek, about one mile above its forks ; banks on Sage creek high and hard to pull up; water in holes, tolerable ; grass good; wood plenty; marched to Bull creek, 113 miles on, here grass good, wood sufficient, water in holes, good ;
s travel 203 miles, road being over high prairie. -° 2123
_ October 14. —Marched to Pinos spring, one of the head branches
Bad river; descent to the valley of the stream quite steep ; valley here three to five miles broad; water ina hole, a little salt ; wood one mile of ere ee day’s march, over good road, 173 mil
October 15.—Marched to Grindstone Puttes creck (Buttes aux Gres creek) 18} miles; road good; passed several good pe rs at t camp, grass — water sport wood
October 16. Sa sone e wood after Ste 4 miles, ‘aiid Hig
prec en creek 4 miles further on
it so! n d pi ille creek ; a little wood; water in holes, cael : _ ; day’s march 214 miles, road good. —
October 18.—Passed tolerable camping lice in six miles marched to Water Holes creek ; water good ; grass fairs no wood ; trees about one ssi down stream ; 5 day” s march 144 miles ; road good.
October 19.—Good road to erossing of Willow reek, 17 miles,
teak: slightly & silt ; camped at Fort Pierre ; day’s march 25 one — ‘the ~gpemge oe not si where the road escen
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
Route from Fort Pierre to Sioux City.
35
oe thar
he . The ferrying across the Missouri, on account of the low Lorn ; ie re to be done at a point about os miles above the fort, d the distances are from this plac October 27.—Took the road over high wow prairie to the mouth of Medicine creek, 22 miles. “Here good saben water and wood; stream 20 yards wide October 28.—First two miles along sie foot ag the Missouri
- grass. October 29.—Route took to the high prairie; reached Chaine oche creek in 15} miles; no wood nor water; 54 miles
farttian, we head a ravine with a little water, and. no wood ; thence to Campbell’s creek, 163 miles ; here plenty of wood, — and grass; — all the eS good; tie 8 march aT
October 30. ~—Marched 5 miles; crossed Shompepi oxbak, veadhe % . plenty of wood, running water and grass; 5 miles further.
combed on Elm Cen plenty of wood, running water and
Rovere 1. 2: Mayoheas over iad dent 173 ils, re Crow cree ere good grass and water, ‘but no wood. - November > After going six miles, imperceptibly reached a
bir it, ana camped ; here grass and water, but very little w ood ; day’s march 234 tlie, over good roa - November 3. pe oceeded wits southside of Fire Steel creek to camp; day’s march, 19} miles; wood, water and grass a good; camp 4 to 5 miles from James river. We were now eS on burnt prairie, which continued the rest of the j journey, and grass could only be found in panes in es
Edit
laces @ Movewber! ds otrossed Toka isi W. or sdbating! s orutics in 10 miles; here are wood, water and grass ; stratified rocks are along. its banks below the crossing; thence to iv. & Jaques or James river, or Chan San W., (White Wood river,) 8} miles; thence to camp on James river, 44 miles ; day’s s ae march, 231 miles - -
_ The crossing of James river is at a boulder rapid, dnd is good; there is no other ford; the banks are miry, and care must be taken in approaching. When flooded, its valley is sub- merged for a mile in width, and cannot pe forded. The stream is about 25 yards wide, with full banks—it is 70 or 80 yards wide; wood enough for fuel exists along the stream November 5.—Proceeded along James river 33 miles; thence to “oy terth creek, Maka Sapa Ouza, (the Glace held
Ex. . 76-—3
ort Pier:
1193 139}.
1623
34 : EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Distance from Fort Pierre.
they get black earth;) 12? miles; here are oak wood, water and grass; road good; day’s march, 16 miles
November 6.—To head of Turkey Ridge creek, 123 riftes': kept on the north side for 4 miles; water, but no wood, and
camping in the Turkey Ridge, Zhicha Kaga; oak woo here, and water in springs; Age laeee all burnt off;
November 7.—Proceeded over the high prairie, studded with little lakes, and left the Coteau du Missouri about 9 miles “before reachin g the Vermilion; day’s march, 274 miles -
The road, since leaving Fort Pierré e, has been over eravel and boulders of the drift formation, covered with soil only one or two inches thick, and consequently hard and good for roads at all times. From here to the settlements the soil
is thick and dark, as in lowa, and proba te as fertile; it ©
will make very heavy roads in wet weather
ever, no other ford, except at its head; there is _plenty of
oak wood here for fuel, and fine grass
November 8.—Road_to- -day good, over fine fertile prairie to ' Lungs creek ; here wood, water and grass; day’s march, 16 miles =
November 9. ~ Str uck the Big tious siftes going 114 miles ; . thence to the Pe. le ferry, 154 re from the pict! to
Sioux city is 7 m
As this route has ate “little ee it is not sete in very aad
weather, and as at such times we = calculate on cross- ing the Vermilion and James rivers, near their mouths, on the ice, the route near the Missouri river should be taken.
The following distances, &c., along it were given x6 by .
out from the blu , in 16 ne you reach White Clay creek ;
water in a ke ‘and wood plenty; thence to Jamesr river,
17 miles; from this river to the forks of Manuel creek is 25 iniles, and here you are 12 miles from the Missouri, not far from 1’Eau qui Court river; at the forks plenty of wood. The next camp would be on Andy’s lake, 27 miles; here wood i is ee from ee lake to Peep creek, 14
eke
1791
2403
267 274
ree © pire a el
Ce ne PEL reer eas
é
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 35
Distances from» St. Louis to the mouth of Yellowstone river.
ae |
APPENDIX B. Survey of Military Reserve at Fort Pierre.
Fort Prerre, August 7, 1855.
ort Kearny in from fifteen to twenty days. e shall _ and exercise the greatest vigilance. an Indian who arrived to-day, are in
lackfeet Sioux are dispe and Powder rivers, and on the head of the
Miles. | Miles From St. Louis— H From St. Louis— To mouth of Missouri river ...... s 20 | To James river 1113 To St. Charles 45 | To Sleigil’s Fort, or Dare Hills .... 1143 To mouth of Gasconade river..... 129 | To head of Bonhomme island...... 1158 To mouth of Osage river ......... 164 | Tol’Eau qui Court river .......+.. 1193 Tor h of Grand river.. ao gue To Grand I 1233 To Lexington City ...-.sescecseee 370 o Cedar island 1283 To Kansas river 456 || To Bijou Hills 1313 To Fort Leavenworth ..........-» 498 |), To White Earth river ..........+ a) 4983 To Fort Weston 505 | To Old Fort aux Cedres (Second To Fort St. Joseph 590 ’ Cedar island) 1347 To Fort*Belleviexcs eo. ies. sees oo BAG To Fort Lookout teem Aa6e To Omaha and Kanesville........ 742 || To Fort of Great Bend 1383 - To Old Council Bluffs S07 |. Fo Medicine erage’... 65.,-.:es0es 1413 To Latile Sivak fiVe6T esac ik oes 882 To Third Cedar island ge 1490 “Po Cookia dod Yard iissssceece (897 To Old Fort George 1454 - To Wood’s Bluff 912 To Fort Pierre 147 To Blackbird Hills ............... 927 |) To Big Shyenne 3 1538 To Chalk Bank 942 To mouth of Moreau river.......... 1634 6 GPRRE UL GTEOK bocce ees oe oes cee 958 Cannon Ball river 17 To O ity 964 To Heart river 1814 To Sargent’s Bluffs........+eesie2 978 | ToFortClark,orthe Aricaree village 1879 o Big Sioux river .....s....s.00- 983 To Fort Berthold, or the Gros Ventres To Towa Bluffs .. © 1028 | _village 944 To Fort Vermilion 1043 | To Fort of Big Bend 1984 To Verinilion rivet. 6.6.) Sc. ess 1063.) To White Earth river 2034 To Petit Arc rive 1088 | To mouth of the Yellowstone...... 2184
36 ' EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
I send herewith a sketch of a survey from Chantier river to Antelope
ence may enable the War Department to reduce the reserve to much smaller dimensions. This year, the country is presented to us
The islands that do not generally overflow (there are none wholly exempt from floods) are good for cultivation. The one included in
‘to be ample for furnishing the necessary quantity of wood, grass,and.s ~
arable land. The ravines in the bluffs
cattle in winter, as they furnish shelter and food, and the earliest
grass in spring. I have not completed my examination of the Little ri, and it is for that reason, I have left it out on the sketch.
n former alternative, and visited all that was necessary to satisfy my- : e same party that goes with me to Fort Kearny, and they knew the country well. About four miles above Chantier river is Galpin’scamp, with the party that vacated Fort Pierre on the arrival - This is a good site, has a considerable quantity of grass
ee THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. | 37
and wood, but not much timber fit for building; the landing i is not f good, better, however, than that of Fort Pierre, and it is in general a more eligible locality.
The next place worth speaking of is De Bouis’ point. This strip of bottom land about five miles long, and from a quarter to tees quarters of a. mile wide; it has an abundance of the finest grass and _ timber, and a permanently y good landing. This place and Crook’s ‘point, nearly opposite, would furnish all the supplies needed; there _ seems, however, no place to locate a fort which would not be too far - from the river without subjecting it to being slightly flooded during ss extraondinayy freshets ; the bottom is also so flat as to probably remain. wet long after arain. The next desirable location is on what is called _
me <The ae below the Shyenne;’’ this is a prairie from fifty to a hundred feet above the river, about five or six miles long, north and south, and a mile anda quarter wide; at the upper side there is a fine permanent ging, and there is said to be one at me lower — There is a fine belt of wood at the lower end, and just at the u 3 end i is a large island probably equal in every respect to Oe one. Sivluded “inthereserve. Altogether this point is a desirable one, and apparently offers, right at hand, nearly all the resources of pe country. It is, eby water, forty-five or fifty miles above Fort rre. Formerly an. Aricaree village existed here of more than shad handréd lodges. I have been informed that the American Fur lompany intend. building upon it, but this is, as yet, doubtful. The general opinion is that the trade with the Sioux in this vicinity is ruined forever, and that it will not be profitable to incur the expense of establishing a trading post. The immediate vicinity of the mouth of the Shyenne i is not good or establishing a military post; the north side is the best, and is good for trading. Dupuis is camped there with the party formerly at Fort George. ‘T believe they intend to build houses, and occupying it per- = manently, Above the Shyenne, there are said to be many good —— _ for woo
eo nd
rises, and falls equally fast; it is very crooked; and when high, has a very ’ swift current ; Mackinac boats have been brought down in time het Dane but it does not promise much in the way of steam navigat T have said nothing about the roads to and from the different laos spoken of. In this respect they are all about equal.
: ‘With s ome labor on the first mile and a half of the bluffs, the road — “4 in dry eather would become good for loaded wagons, In vou any
Black Talle between the forks of the Shyenne 7 The Moreau road crosses the Shyenne fifteen miles from its mouth: ere is pootet crossing three miles from its mouth.
38 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
The sketches must be excused for want of neatness, as they were made with the least possible facilities.
In what I have so far accomplished, I have been essentially aided by Mr. Paul Carrey.
Whatever may be the comparative defects in the site of Fort Pierre for a military post, it is evident that it is the only one in this part of the country that could be occupied this year as a depot, and the labor that will have been expended before another season comes around may render the removal of the post an affair of doubtful expediency.
. am, sir, your obedient servant,
fae ; Lieutenant Topographical Engineers. Major O. F. Wrysurp, Assistant Adjutant General, Of Sioux Expedition.
APPENDIX ¢. Report of September 4, 1855, and sketch of Battle Ground at Blue Water Creek.
rally abrupt and three to four feet high, requiring care when proached on horseback. It will be seen the stream
Sem,
Pata Peat
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 39
11 Ogalalas) given on the sketch. He says the number of prisoners taken is about seventy, of whom four are Ogalalas, of the family of __ Chan-ta-pe-tan-ya, being his. squaw and three children. The Brule chief, Little Thunder, was not killed. Campbell gained his informa- tion from the prisoners. None of them know the length of the Blue ; Water creek, but suppose it to be about fifteen miles, and to have its source in a lake of the Sand Hills. | I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, G. Ko Was
peo ones =
ie EN, Lieutenant Topographical Engineers. Major O. F. Wuxsurp, o Assistant Adjutant General, - Headquarters Sioux Expedition.
Nore.—The Indians were killed in places far apart, and in situations where the dead bo- dies cvuld not easily be seen, so that it was almost impossible to make a ct estimate of the slain from observation after the fight. I passed very close to one body several times without discovering it till the fourth day after, when my attention was only attracted to it by a group of ravens i
Pe the paee as ee
—___——
APPENDIX D. Meteorology.
The notes on the weather while travelling, from June 15 to November 16, 1855, are given by themselves. The thunder storms appeared to
olence.
g, south winds were ‘always followed by thunder showers from the west ; sometimes this south wind, falling during the night and beginning in the morning, lasted three and four days before a thunder storm came. I was told by one of the traders of the American Fur Company, that some twelve years ago there was a snow storm in the month of May, when the trees were in leaf, that caused a fall of
tiree feet of snow at Chaine de Roche creek, near the Great Bend. It lasted a day and night, and was accompanied by appalling wig 5 a
a great many buffalo perished, and the Indians lost numbers of their
Snow storms, in the region of Fort Pierre, are very uncertain, and — come up very suddenly. Several persons nave perished from these not
remainder of the season. oa ‘The climate is evidently not well adapted to agricultural a
and loss to the flocks and herds of a pastoral population.
and the occasional severity of the winters would cause great suffering 4
40 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
The observations at Fort Pierre were made mainly by Mr. J. Hudson ~ j
Snowden, being relieved from 12 o’clock at rosy till 6 in the morning by Mr. Paul Carrey and myself. Our short stay, and numerous other and fatiguing duties during this eaen season, prevented the observa- tions being extended over a longer per e psychrometer was made by tes Green, of New York, and is the same as that adopted by the Smithsonian Institution. The ob- servations made with it at Fort Pierre are in every way reliable, as the circumstances were favorable to eecuins the proper air temperature, the air having free circulation, and there being no sun’s rays or re- flecting bodies to influence the ott Sane the wet bulb was kept constantly moist, by being encased with a thin linen rag dipping into a vial of water, and care was taken to keep the moisture in the proper, quantity over the The barometers recat were James Green’s syphons, Nos. 1013 and 1014. At the time of comparison his standard read 30.107, and the height of the barometric column given by syphon No. 1013 was 30.106, and by syphon No. 1014 was 30. 116. These instruments remained in perfect condition till they were accidentally broken—No. 1013 near Fort Pierre, and No. 1014 near Fort Laramie Table I gives the observations, altitudes, and distances-on the route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny; and table II from Fort Kea pane to Fort Laramie. i table IIT the temperature of evaporation i as observed with the wet bulb thermometer, and the diffevente st this and the dry bulb thermometer similarly exposed, both Fahrenheit. From the readings of the wet bulb thermometer and these differences the elastic force of eather aqueous vapor is deduced, and the per - centage of the saturation existing at the time, both by aid of Regnault’s tables. The elastic force of vapor, being the share of the barometric hekgh made up by the vapor cf the atmo osphere, ranges here from .15. 0 .80 ofaninch. In tables IV and V, the mean of ‘this elastic force fas the several hours of successive days, i is obtained. The last of these — - shows a small curve of force through the day, attaining - maximum at 2p. m., and falling to its minimum at the colder hour ~The relative humidit , or per centage of saturation, is oe, several se falling below thirty per cent., and only once or twice rising to satu
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETO. Al
of corrections are “large, but they are clearly within a determined range shown to exist at Fort Pierre by these observation ‘These corrections are applied in all the computations of altitude, as well as correction for the non-periodic Met inion obtained by compari- son with the barometric observations made by the United States medi- cal department at Forts Snelling ie ee and Leavenworth. . It will be seen that I place the altitude (1,504) of Fort Pierre z ane the same as that given by Nicollet, Fort Kearny (360 feet) be- low that given by Captain Stansbury, and Fort Laramie (269) below that given by him. After careful examination of my own observa- tions, "Tam constrained thus to differ. Mr. J. Hudson Snowden made nearly all the calculations, and de- duced the results given in the tables, and Mr. Lorin Blodget yes me in the preparation and arrangement of this portion of the wo
NOTES ON THE WEATHER.
Saturday, June 15.—Left Fort Leavenworth; wind to-day south, 5. June 16.—Wind south, 7; cumulus clouds thick in the north. at
et. June 17.---Overcast; raining a little occasionally in the morning ; wind light; clear and. hot n the afternoo n; in the evening cumulus clouds oecupied the horizon rates north around by west to south, and at 9 o'clock there were continual flashes of lightning; about 12 0’ “clock > a most aoe storm of wind, rain, lightning, and thunder came upon us from the west, and lasted for an hour. oe June 18. —Clear most of the day Gia warm; at dark pegesiner threat- ening storm appeared in the west, but did not reach u June 19. —Very warm. June 20.—Very warm; at sunset another violent thunder hades came from the NW.; rained during the nig June 21.—Clear and cool; wind Ji ght NW.; was able to see the
15th. e 22.—Clear and cool; thermometer at noon 74°; at midnight
une 23 and 24.—Fai
dune 25. —Near the Eanath of the Vermilion eee wind SW., 7, during the day ; thermometer at noon 873°, we ulb 7 24; at sunset dark cumulus clouds came from the sieickhs eee = the time blowing
e from the south; at 9 p.m. Tatbomibter 28; attached thermometer ike Aiecked 14; raining heavy to ae north, rie a storm passing : south of us moving to the SE., wind n r 8. The flashes
view of this commotion of the elements pociais us. June 26,—Clear and nearly calm.
42 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Tune 27. naan south wind all day, and a violent storm again from the NW. in the n
June 28. salle, rainy, and nearly calm most of the day.
June 29 and 30, and July 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, and 7.—Weather cool, eg clouded, ‘but no material rain; most of the time north wind.
, 10, and 11.—Wind fresh from the south.
uly 12. —Strong NE. wind, and light,thunder showers from NW. .
Tidy 13.—At the Great Bend violent northwest wind storm, which blew the water out of the river in spray ; but little rain or thunder.
July 14.—Wind strong south. (? )
' July 15.—Wind light; at 2 p. m., thermometer in the shade 102°; in the sun 107°; wet bulb 69°, wind slight northwest ; shower towards ' night, “te the rain all evapor ated again before reaching the earth.
6.—Clear and very warm.
The sce observations were made on the steamboat. The observa- tions on the weather from July 16, to August 9, will be found in the table with the observations of wet and dry bulb thermometers at Fort
The following notes on the weather soe gh the meteorological observations from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.
ugust 9,6 a. eho uds 3; 14 p. m.,cumulus 3 ; wind northwest 3; several thunder showers crossed the prairie in “the afternoon, mov- - ing to wg southeast ; much thunder and rain during the night.
August 10, 64 a. m. —Rain ; ; clouds 9 ; calm, thermometer 664°; wet bulb dae te 64°; in the forenoon sun shone at intervals ; 12 m z _ heavy thunder shower to the east, wind at the time web eth 6 ; at # get ape ; 9 p. m- clouds, raining slightly ; ; wind northw 6 Bs: :
Aug 11. i eae Hs the day clouds varying from 7, 3 to 8; wind aoe: from 3 to 4, eet slight wheats. 3 of rain ; 5 p. m., ther- rometer 61° ; ; wet bulb 5
pales T, ia p.1 m. a Waid rte 5 ; -high prairie covered with fog i mist. rand 15.—Clouds, 3 to 5; wind northwest, 3; 64 p. m., clear and ca August 15, 74 to 10 a. m., wind “since 5; clouds, 10; ponte rain ; temperature of Rapid river a0; Bb ay, sun shone ; Tp. ifi., » nimbus clouds, 8; rainy, wind Hovtheweet, 4; temperature 14 p-
m., August 16, 53 a. m., clouds ; 9}, low and flying, wind northeast, 5; 7 p.m. , clouds, 1 : in horizon calm ; continued so nearly all night. August 1%, 54 a. m., slonds, 9; ; clear around the sun, wind north- wes cleared up as the day advanced ; m. , clouds 2; upper wind west, lower wind east, 4. e ae
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETO. 43,
August 18, 54a. m., clear, wind east, 4; wind soon changed to the
south, 6; 1 p.m clear ; wind south, 6. August 49, 4 a. m. : clouds, _5; cirrus, wind south, 4; all day it was south, 6; 7 p. m., nearly calm
August 20, 54 a. m., clouds, 4; thunder during the morning; rained a little during the day ; 7 p. m., clouds, 94 nimbus ; wind north, 5. . August 21, 54 a. m. , clouds, 9: wind northeast, 1 ; Tp ley clear, wind northeas t, August 22, 53 a. _m., clear and calm.
OO A a a SN ae ee Ee i ee a ak Se Re Lene Dey ibe = p
Observations from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie,
August 25, 6a. m., foggy ; wind southeast ; day clear and warm. " August 26, 27 and 28, —Cloudy in, the morning ; clear and warm at noon, and i “ the evening.
St oF a. m., clouds, 10; wind east, 1; day clear and warm.
tare ee Sa em ~ |:
a ust 30, 44 a. m., clouds, 1; wind east, 6: 3 p.m., clouds, 2; | ..° wine’ Biithwost bi August 31, 6 a.m., calm; clouds, 1, in the horizon to the north ; = no dew; clouds soon moved south with northeast wind, 5, and covered . the whole sky; 43 p. m., wind north, 4; clouds, 5; thermometer 81; fe wet bulb 71°; temperature of the Platte 13.5 1 the night there was a violent thunder storm, and a heavy fall of rain; a horse was killed by the lightning. September 1, 54 a. m., calm; Dates 8; 3} p. m., clouds, 2; cumu- lus in the horizon : cirrus over ead ; ind southeast £1. September 2, 6h a. , all mist ae etid: northeast, 1; 6 p. m.,. cumulus, clouds, 25 wind southeast, 2.
Septembe 7 3.—Cu mulus ; clouds filled the sky nearly all day, and showers were in several par rts of the horizon with thunder; 9 p. m commenced raining har
September 4 and 5—Warm. a 6, heavy rain at 5 p. m.
September 7, 8 and 9.—Warm fair.
September 10, 54 a. a Sea eloditi, 5; calm ; aD. m., clouds, 10; cumulus and nimbus; wind nort west,
September 11, 6 a. m., clouds, 10; wind northeast, @
September 12, og &. Mi. +, clouds, 10; wind northeast, 1.
OS She alae Oe wih eee moe
Observations from Fort Kearny to Fort Laramie.
wn goon 13, 54 a. m.—Clouds, 1; cirrus, calm, heavy dew; day clear and hot i Septem er 14, 6 a m.—Clouds, 2 in horizon ; calm ee
oe 15, 6 a. m. —Clouds, 3 cirro vate i cali 5 day very oo
5 Micleber 16.—Dense fog in the morn - ember 19, 8 a, m.—Clouds, 10, ; ietud southeast, 6; raining a | “es and = so all night.
: 2, 5p. m.—Thermometer 66° ; clouds, 93 ; wind west, 5.
Ad es EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Observations from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre. _ September 29.—Fair day ; little rain after dark, with high north
wind, 7.
September 30, 6 a. m.—Thermometer 44; no dew, wind northwest, i
October 1 ana ooctel, 4355 ; day clouded.
October 2.—Thermometer at sunrise 32°.
October 3.—The bag was quite warm, 4 inches snow fell i in the night at the head of White river.
October 4.—Thermometer at sunrise, 29° ; snow melted during the day, the ground being quite warm. '
« October 5.—Thermometer at sunrise, 23°; wind northwest 5, during
the day. October 6. Rid thermometer 29°; day fine. October 7, 8, and 9.—Weather fine
October 10. ~neaaibtiadtee at sunrise, 54°, October 11.—Thermometer at sunrise, 28°. October 12, 13, and 14.—Fine cool weather | —Thermometer at sunrise, "36° : coal all day. October 16.—Fair. October 17.—Very w October 18.—-High orth wind all day.
October 19.—Very fine day.
October 20.—At Fort Pierre ; commenced raining at daybreak ; changed to driving sleet and snow, with strong northeast wind ; men and animals suffered seve erely. _ - October 21.—Storm of sleet continued, with occasional pauses; the ; : wind changed to nearly every point of the compass ; everything covered with ice.
October 22.—Weather somewhat clear ; thermometer about 23°.
October 24.—Clear, wind south, 6
October 25.—Clear and cold, wind northwest, 6.
October 26,— Wind northwest, 4
* ool
Observations from Fort Pierre to Sioux City. - { October 27.—Thermometer at sunrise ot day clear; wind north, 4 October 28.—Thermometer at sunrise October 29. pr pemnaes at sunrise ‘31°: ; wind south, very “ey ' a short time in the mo
October unrise, io etincnickad 26°. October 31. —Sunrise, erg ce it 26°, November 1 and 2.—Fair days. November 3.—Thermometer at — 19°; day fine __ November 4, Thermometer “at sunrise 39° ; misty ; clouds covered — ithe sky and betokened a storm; sianns in the Giertiogn and night, _
~ November 5. coKt ‘Turkey aeek: thereon ‘at sunrise 43°, ‘ ; ing aad clouds rising in ri east; ; heavy fog anks in the ncvthwele se strong gfe wind succe at 8a m., enveloping us in fog, and ng storm uf sleet and snow, which it was almos'
a bitter drivi imy cible to face ; aéntintee till mber 6.—Thermometer at sunrise 29°; day clear. iT herniométer at sunrise 28° ; ; day clear.
8.—T Se at | sunrise 29° : day clear. i
‘ovember 8 h Roveber 9 and 10.—Fin
City tn, >» Kane esville veer ee
hy aaew
ed all ha
wember 12. oth nor est ne with snow als. aid November 13.—Fine day. November 14, acticndes ; commenced raining about dark, and rained,
-alln
acinar i —Misty rain all day. vember 16.—Cool and clondyes ; Snow fell. in 1 the night “about 5 iddhee 4 in ay Towa. 7 ; 3 :
oe we lena sn siiete + ‘og
3 ee
Route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.—Altitudes and distances.
Station, |
‘TABLE I.
EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
TR RRR ARSE SESSOCHMMPAMRMR RARER RRR me OH
] aor er ee ' “ | | | Ba | he) 2s ees | | 35 Peg p> Spe ag Place of observation. sh | t S a se a8 es hae | Seto g. 3 3 | eS] gm a } EI 2S oe a ee ewe | = = Bee A: a Bf Sl) a eee A. ug.8 | 9} ~ — =— Missouri river). 28 ee | 62. | De dais is BO bedi seen och. 28.420 | 28.483 | 58.57 1477.5] 48 |........ 9/13 p.m. | Ata small water hole........... 27.656 | 27.660 92. 2325.0 | 22.75 9 | 92 p.m. | Medicine creek pre: SIE pres 7. op 10 | 6 a.m. |... DOr eifeseNy dot ie cians 27.685 27.703 | 664.67 | 2220. | 6 10/9 p.m. | White river 25.002 iin ies 69. Tt fSh aon} Ors SO ee Ts a i a 11 | 13 p.m. do ue eae POE irae sees 76. TL 6 5 pit. eo 0 ee Deva Cee neh BE as AL pee AL | Gp) Pe ms | os Seve g aree cong ernihs chen eke DANS Gatien BR ame TET p. s 98 439 | Pees hee 53. . 12 | 84 a.m. |e... -sepeet| SRAM boost cin] Wie fesee ee 12 6i a.m : .do - gia i : .ee,| 28.440 56. Os Hi ee exe vein 12| 6.40 ewsealo Sera oeels ss. 5. |) RRASI T B8e 56.59 | 1580. | 1 12/7 am. Bluffs of White river. 28.247 | 28.996 | 593.592 | 1680. |..., Re 12 9h a.m hon acne of iebsrsice: 28.008 | 27.969 | 56.56 1944, 4 59.25 « 122/12 pm 28.106 | 23.129 | 70.70 | 1900. | 9 a2 | 8 p.m. onda Seite 28.123 | 2s ch sath | 61, exits alah 18 | 52 a.m. | do Se ST 28.101 | 25.245 | 61.61 | 1760. | 4 18 | S$} a.m. On a high prairie...............| 27.895 | 27. 633.633 | 2100. | 12 18 | 11ga.m. | On Dog's Bars creek........ ..-. PEGs gi trees U6 a aR) 18hp.m. | 5 icc secs 27.709 27.701 | 73.72 | 2280. | OE 18 | 2 p.m. | On sand ridge (divide),........ 27.555 | 27.585 | 80.80 || 2870. | 8 .18)7 p BM siver io. cacss. 27.890 a) oe " 14] 6. am. |... 40. 27.895 | 27.905 | 65.66) | 1995. | 6 446 | 68 pi] Rapid river. .i, cute obi Jueaokal MEG fly Sag ASE Se Be eee EE TAR ORNS Cis eeUOk Sees telenc'y ar coud +ee-| 27,875 | 27.818 | 69.74. | 2115. | 243" 15 | 8b a.m id ri cecee’ | SF.006 | QT. 672 PT0.70” | 9986. 4.2.. 15 | 7 p.m.) Camp on high prairi PT: 480F Ago) aay $61.65. & Behe QT 667 ‘o7 567 | 51.53 | 1617 p.m. | sana it (les Dates de Sab). det Ae diets a oe ee 17 | bb a.n:.| | 27.509 | 27.558 | 51.54 9890. | orp | Hl had cdl Sete eerre sy. ae Je. Papert Fan Solis a EL One are ee 31-00 | £7.00 58.61 | 2355, 18;7 pm. eee ee sate, PO AD ae eo 3 eae Bees 10) at om. | | ar.aot | 97.455 | 59.¢5 | abt0. | 96 19) T pm Modoy erie ee es de gees = SO TSE & tie 1.5 eek etek ects veces 97.508 | 97.587 | ns Tl © |: 9892.9 | 262 a) j gh. | 97.825 Jase. se. ; + 91) 8 do do.. 27.936 | 206 | ak | 9080. | 19. ay small creek i isd OS ‘ot. 22 do : at 27.859 | 443.58 | 2050. | 17 Pate rivets. ccterecs cos ceseccchersc sc loos. seis cbse) DUID. | 20 Fort Kearny c ...| 2000. 114 { |
TABLE if:
"Fort Kearny to Fort Loran
Place of observation,
Height of barom- eter 82° Fah, Air, temperature.
Altitude in feet. Intermediate dis- tance. Distance from Ft
_ Kearny. -
re F Fort Kearny, on Platte river
tees tesa
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do
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do.
do
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ee ee a eer a | 26.780 North ork Matesiver (Ash Hallow)
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-+++| 26,402 | 26.807 sesesesessee! 26,202 | 26.202 vene@OLeese + oesd0, seecrons tees! 96,080 | 96.088 Oe ee
Oe eyes veeee Oy vececcecwses| Be Cle | 25.683
—These altitudes were calculated directly from these observations, and some of modified for non-periodi> variation by comparison with the barometric observations by = aust States tc! ——- at Forts Leavenworth, Snelling, and Kearny. station 3, to which add 80 feet for station 5, from hich | “eulptract 50 Suet: For station 7 subtract 50 feet; station 11 subtract 65 feet; sta-— 12 subtract 65 feet; stations 13 and 14, add 150 feet; station 15 add 30 feet, and you re the results, give it in the column of altitudes.
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TABLE VII.
Reduced barometric readings, from which the altitude of Fort Pierre is computed.
Barometer No. 1014.
1855. July 3 August ao i 3 ‘ : 4 | Mean... : Corresponding mean air temperature 77° TABLE IX. : Daily curve of pressure and the corrections to be applied to the readings at the several hours. : 5 a.m 28.485 1.000 g 6 a.m -495 +.005 : be m -505 +.019 ' 8 a.m e515 -029 a 9am 525 -039 : 10 a.m -540 .054 | 2 bts m -b5D° | 044 2m -500 | | -014 2 . om A488 | + .002 3 p.m =~ 4p. m 5 p.m 6 p.m 7Tp.m &8p.m 9 p.m 10 p.m
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THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC.
APPENDIX E.
~ Gronogicar NOTE ON SECTION IN RAVINE OF L’HAv Qui Court RIVER, BY AKE.
LA i saa Notrs, &¢., oN Nepraska, sy Dr. wey: Havpey
_ Observations on the Geological specimens collected by Lieutenant G. K. arren from the bluffs of a ravine in the Mauvaises Terres, By William P. Bl ake.
| Masatnaze, D. C., March 15, 1956.
rva judge will present ery nearly the nature of the strata for a wide area in that region. Until this time we have been without uite of specimens from these strat, and without any very definite knowledge of their mineral characters. m these specimens and your explanations 1 I have constructed the s iittiexed sectional view of the face of the bluff:
g—Loose sand; sand hills 50 to 00 feet high.
. oe J--3 to 5 feet hard caleareous sandstone. z
--—------ e—15 feet of sand.
*
d—3 inches of clay and shells.
-.-- - €—15 feet of sand.
#
- b—10 feet thin strata of clay, interstratified with sand.
oe
- a—15 feet friable sandstone, (caleareous.)
ee eae
ahickenene-t thus des satel is about sixty feet, an consists, seen, of ~_ colored friable sa ndstones ; ‘sand looely CO
64 _ EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
and of marly clays. No coarse sandstones or beds of conglomerate are presented ; and the series would thus appear to have been deposited in
comparatively quiet water without violent currents. 1 now present a_ 2
brief description of the specimens collected from the strata as they succeed each other upwards from the base of the bluff.
a. From the base, a thickness of 15 feet exposed to view.
This specimen is partly in powder and is very friable. Its color is white, and when examined with a microscope is seen to consist princi- pally of grains of white and translucent or transparent quartz, very much rounded and worn, as if by long attrition. They are surrounded and cemented together by an opaque white mass which shows fibrous crystalizations and resembles a soluble salt which has effloresced by exposure to the air. This, however, is not removed by boiling water, but dissolves rapidly in clorhydric acid with effervescence, and the
solution gives a white precipitate with carbonate of ammonia. ee
white substance, therefore, is ge. of lime. b.. 2. Specimen’ from the bottom.
.ccording to the label it forms thin strata only a nating with layers of sand, forming a combined n feet. hen treated with acid it effervesces,
The of alumin
c. 3. Stratum from bottom. oose sand; no specimen obtained; thickness about 15 feet.
d. 4. Stratum from base.
This is an ash colored powder, consisting in great part of clay;
silicious grains are also present, and are coarser than those seen int specimen from b. The lable with this states that the larger is of very y variable thickness, and so soft that it was not possible to obtain a
coherent lump. I have represented it in the section as three inches in —
thickness, which you inform me is its proba
ecimen has a hi ht ash color, and consists, in great part, ne
: deta op nd in this powder several minute but beautiful shells and frag-
The shells prove on inspection to belong to — he
The first is a land shell, and t
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 65
species, but there has not been sufficient time to make the aes comparisons. Dr. oa Girard, to whom I have exhibited them
coincides with me the opinion that they are new, and we propose for them aiovoGATy the names Helix socialis, and Planerbis antiqua.
5. Stratum from bottom. Land 10 to 15 feet thick; not represented in the collection. f. 6. Stratum from bottom.
_ This specimen is a compact white or grayish-white ee ia stone. The silicious grains are very uniform in size; quite small and
po Stag to some lang from the Llavio ie pot brouayt in oy t
weather. You inforra i me that this is the case, see that its thickness is about five feet,
Aes ee layer, of apne.
e from your description that ‘dees BPS layer of sand, which caries. fain 50 to 100 feet in thickness, is an ai ccumulation of drift sand or dunes, which was not — down under sat in the position which it now occupies. The rounded sloping surface which it presents towards the edge of the bluff, te its loose condition, and is additional ee 5 o drifted character. Undera glass, the sa ape apatites the
sand hills on the Llano Esta The specimens from this eine oF the. bluff are ee by. two ; the ridge 1 ee the vicin-
= i pork a ae
Places a ars in “se ers or seams, as if it had been. ; an es naan seme the eal” ‘ to ‘analy
66 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
differs from that already described only in containing a little dusk, and — a very little organic matter—particles of the roots and grasses—which
It is wonderful that even the seat v vegetation you describe should 2 a
exist on such a barren foundation Respectfully and truly, yours,
BLAK eeagiet of the office of ihe Tiited States Pacific Ltailr oad Laplorations and Surveys. Lieut. G. K. Warren United States Topographical Engineers.
Wasutneton, D. C., “March 15, 1856. Sir: I herewith present a brief f sketch of the ponte and payee al features of the re egion of the e upper Missouri, with some noten On, on its soil, vegetation, ean life; &c. <7
vege ai is ; ee: Beet Very cnmieanes vg yu pieretiens servant, eis Lieut. G. K. W. “
5g HAYDEN. United. States ee, Engineers.
—- hy offent of country drained by the great hy croanbicn! of the Missouri, may be characterized as one principal syst
of aise the Missouri river and its larger tributaries as isbn:
The Missouri river or principal. system rises in the main chain of the
Rocky mountains, RUDGE, east or ‘slightly northeast course to the
confluence ¢ ite h river. pear the 49th parallel, the —_
northern point te iver: ; then changing its course it flows in a , southeasterly direction to its confluence with the Mississippi, in mee tude 38° 50’ 50”. Its topography is quite well understood ag far as Fort Benton, and in the vicinity of the mountain passes, but of its sources very little as yet is definitely known
1en come the principal tributaries of the Missouri river, whit ich T have called sub-systems, or subsidiary hydrographical . por- ©
at in ascending the Missouri, we have— i. The sub-system, of the Platte river, an important arte draining an immense area, which also rises in ‘the main chain of the Rocky pare Ae Leto in latitude 41° + 24”. stem of t u qui Court, or Running zag which its rise in the eastern portion of the Black Hills, drains an area ‘y about three bu dred miles i in anette and per in breadth, 18 Meeperiee ata eous and | a iapeaations . This has.
White nr, hick al iin th er
tion of which I will mention as illustrative of this paper. Commenc- {
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 67
portion of the Black Hills, and flows through the remarkable mam-
malian cemetery or tertiary basin, draining an area of two hundred
and fifty miles in length and fifty in breadth, Sraptiss into the Missouri in latitude 43° 41’. It has been partially explor s e Teton, or Bad river of the Sioux, an inferior sub-system, rises in the eastern portion of the Bad Lands, drains an area of one hun- dred miles in length and thirty in breadth, flows through the sterile clays of the cretaceous formation, and empties into the Missouri four miles below Fort Pierre, near latitude 44°. 23’ 28".
5. The sub-system of the Shyenne, a river 0 it considerable size, takes
; ome through the northern portion of the same spur and empties — into the Missouri near latitude 444°. This river drains an area of about three hundred and fifty miles in length and sixty to eighty in breadth, and flows for the most part through the sterile clays of the cretaceous formation. It has been partially PE
6. Passing over the Moreau, Grand, an nd Cannon Ball rivers, which take their rise in the prairie near the eastern adie of the Black Hills, - and are less important streams, we come to the sub-systems of the Little Missouri, which rises in the eastern portion of the Black Hills, flows through the great Lignite Tertiary basin, draining an area 0 about two hundred and fifty miles in length and fifty in breadth, and apie into the Missouri near latitude 474°. As jet it is very little
ae latitude 48°, the Missouri bifurcates the right fork or Yellow- stone, draining an immense region, to the south and west, of which very , little is known ; and the left fork of the Missouri, oa Og the country further west and north near the base of the moun ains. The left fork of the Missouri contains a less volume of water = has a far less rapid current than the Yellowstone.
On the left side I will only mention the two yubsayatelns of the James and Big Sioux rivers, which have been quite thoroughly ex- death by Nicollet and others, and drain a much more fertile aon than those before mentioned.
The above gives a brief pale ae outline of the basin drained by the Missouri system of w
Geologically the Missouri >a ir from the mouth of the Platte to
he Rocky mountains, may be characterized by three principal divisions, represeneing three geological safer
1. The Carboniferous system, the upper members of which are very well dercione at the mouth of the Platte, and extend to a point about thirty miles above Bellevue, Nebraska. Here the limestone strata dip beneath the bed of the river and are succeeded by a bed of yellow- ish sandstone, the exact age of which is not known, but probably
m. em, which is positively known to exist at the basis Pan eon
ce tot — mon
68 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
tends over an area of two hundred and fifty miles in length and fifty to sixty in breadth.
2. The great Lignite basin, commencing on the Missouri river near the mouth of Cannon Ball river, and reaching to the mouth of Muscle- shell river, a distance of nearly eight hundred miles ina straight line, extends up the Yellowstone six or seven hundred miles ; ite limits in that direction not known. In the summer of 1854, I traced it to the mouth of the Big Horn river, and obtained through the Crow Indians undoubted Tertiary fossils from a point two hundred miles further up the river, Its. boundaries haye not yet been deter- mined, but may be estimated to cover an area, with very little inter- ruption, of from four to six thousand square miles.
3. The ‘‘Bad Lands of the Judith,’’ which seems to be a dis- tinct. basin, probably an estuary deposite, the exact age of which is not determined, covers an area of about 40 miles in length, and 10 to 20 in breadth. The details of the geology of these systems I have reserved for a succeeding report, wit
e whole region watered by the Missouri also presents many z00- logical and botanical characteristics which are peculiar, and even in its ancient fauna and flora, it exhibits forms and types found in no other geological district. “ag
‘is: uri to the confluence of the Platte, the
timber along the river i overy abundant and luxuriant, and the up- ot :
by the annual decay of the enormous growth
_ The forest ees from Council Bluffs to Dorion’s Hills, consist mostl of cottonwood, black walnut, butternut, ash, ‘American and red sla
i RUM eee eS Sea ae ee, ee oe Dh Rae Mee
Pe ESSE ie Sea oan Oe ont,
ij
Kinnie kinnic, (Cornus i es) several species of Salix, one of “>
‘Tare, pric
t THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 69
soft maple, several species of oak, coffee bean, hackberry, basswood, Sree &c. The principal under shrubs are cherry, prickly ash, uma vc. The cottonwood is found everywhere on the bottoms, and atteit covers the island to the exclusion of other trees. At Floyd’s Bluff the well known and useful bullberry shrub first makes it appear- , ance, and continues from thence to the sources of the Missouri. About thirty miles: above Council Blufis the last Sycamore | Platanus Occk dentalis] is seen in ascending the river, and from its size marks con- spicuously the limits of its growth
Extending along the river, through the States of Missouri and Iowa, is a prominent series of hills, to which Professor Swallow of
Rie Missouri, has applied the geological term of the ‘‘ Bluff fo rmation?
They are composed of a yellow siliceous marl of considerable fertility, and their deposition is comparatively recent, and is indicated by the fact that numerous land and fresh water shells are found in them, spe- cifically identical with those existing in the same region at the present time. These hills are by far the most finely developed on the left side of the Missouri between Council Bluffs and Floyd’s Bluff, and seem to enclose the vast bottom prairie as with a gigantic wall. Many of the hills rise to'a height of 150 to 200 feet, and so steep are their sides that vegetation can scarcely sustain itself. An excellent farmer on the Little Sioux has commenced the culture of the vine amon hills, and is confident of success. This formation open Ow the Big Sioux, though not so prominent to the mouth of Running Water, where it eradually dies out, though traces of it are seen throughout the Upper Missouri country, and may be distinguished gyn by a4 wear a richer growth of vegetation. mouth of the Big Sioux is an extensive tract of fine tithber,
and rate anxious eyes are fixed on it ready to seize it, as soon as the Indian claim is extinguished. There are many islands in the river of considerable extent, which must eventually be of much interest to the
settlers. They are e usually covered. with a dense growth of cotton- wood, which, in the absence of other —— of timber, will be of ton
thaple, and so 6 indes shr aay ‘and
find along the ane and skirting yh Bites Aaltbiicien ie,
ash, bo x-elder, occasionally a few oaks, and the cottonwood i is seldom absent in the bottoms. In man laces the red cedar is seen, and in the vicinity of the mountains the i hathets roe are covered with pines. Along the streams a few shrubs appear, as Cornus Sericea,
willow, the inner bark of which is much used a the Sioux for their
grows to a large size, sometimes two feet in diameter ; mully
oe oer ash, &e. rs uo ee 3 ‘Dorion’ ills, tS called froma Canadian who fo y : ig
70 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Brulés”’ by the Canadian voyageurs. These hills are covered with fragments of selenitic crystals, or gypsum, which glisten
s rays like gems, and from this fact are sometimes called the ‘‘ Shining Hills.’’ Above the mouth of the Cannon Ball river, the sands and elays of the Tertiary system commence, and the general a of the country is much improved; the upland is covered with a fine «
About fifty miles be e favorite wooding place for steamboats in their ascent of the river. This island is one of three which are destined to be of much interest to the settlers along the Missouri. They have an area of several
the largest trees are not more than two feet in diameter. e quantity of fine timber might be selected from these islands with ai vantage to the remainder. They are also the resort of myriads of birds and larger animals, which gather to these places to rear their young undisturbed. — e country in the vicinity of Fort Pierre, and north towards the Black Hills, though mostly sterile or entirely barren, contains some plateaus that are covered with a fine growth of grass. The region
fr ren black hills, sometimes producing a few stunted cedars, meet the eye on every side. Between the two forks of the Shyenne, and in the vicinity of Bear Butte, a portion Black _ Hills, is quitea large area, which seems to have bee
some time previously seen nothing but the sterile country fakes
an F ebundines of fis a nd swarms of beaver live ee their banks. They are skirted with excellent timber of ash, oak, elm, and box- elder, and the level plains are covered with a fine carp et of grass which, in spring and early summer, is enamelled with my rind of flowers of the richest hues. On the 9th of March, 1855, I ascended Bear Butte, and on the south side, six hundred feet cheine: the level prairie, | found a beautiful ry erin ees just putting forth its blossom. The Indians call it the navel flower, for they say that when it blooms young spring is ee = At that time the grass was springing up quite green, and herds of antelopes were quietly reposing upon the sunny sides of streams, like flocks of sheep. This is a portion of the —_ similar to White river valley, well adapted for grazing purposes, and capable of sustaining a tolerably dense population. The Biath, Hills which astm in the distance, and derive their name from their dark appearance, contain an inexhaustible quantity of the finest ier, mostly pine, which will doubtless remain undisturbed for many ye ars to come. I will, however, propose a plan for obtaining this timber, and render it useful to future settlers, though I do it with some hesitation, lest it may seem visionary. The left fork of the Shyenne passes through the northern portion of the Black Hills, and even there is a considerable stream, from thirty to fifty yards wide. In the spring the river is much swollen, and the current exceedingly rapid, and the timber, if cut and hauled to the banks of the river, might be floated down into the Missouri with considerable safety and ease.
resources are concerned. In the bottoms, however, the traders and Indians raise very good vegetables. At Fort Union the traders have met with very good success some seasons, but usually noe or early frosts destroy their labors. Three tribes of Indians on the Missouri are somewhat of an agricultural people. The Minssthante at Fort Berthold raised, in 18 854, t wo thousand bushels of corn and beans, pumpkins in proportion. The Mandans, sixty miles below, one thou- sand five hundred bushels, and the Aricarees, at Fort Clark, four thou- sand bushels. The drought and early frost ‘of 1855 nearly destroyed their crops, which, in the month of June, looked quite promising. At Fort Pierre, also, the river bottoms and islands are cultivated with some success, perhaps as much so as many of our Atlantic States.
cemetery. ‘The weather was bsieseesd and sun shining sR Most of the 1 usual spring’ birds er courses
72 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
stream is fed by springs, contains an abundance of fish
a
merous dry trees along the river. After
or animals,
in want of. or | bottoms is
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 73
very fertile, composed of the calcareous and aluminous marls of the Tertiary basin through which the upper portion of this river flows, and the clays of the Cretaceous system which forms the hills, and is the basis formation eee sea the valle The following day, May 11, we passed up the valley four or five miles above the “forks, for the pur pose of fording the river. The left fork is the main stream, and, at this time was much swollen and the current quite rapid, The bottom is so full of quicksands and. other impediments that we found it very difficult to discover a crossing place. Finally, after a most diligent search of — hours wading about in _ the stream, we ventured to make the attempt. We first unloaded everything i in our carts and carried it to the opposite side, a distance of one hundred and fifty yards, and then letting our carts down the steep bank with great care, we passed safely over on the other side with no other trouble than the miring of our horses in se or two | instances. After landing safely on the other side, we ascen e high hills which border the river, and camped in a "penetiinbon ravine, : which flowed a fine spring, surrounded with an abundance of wood, The whole country here has much the appearance of the lime- stone region near the mouth of the Platte, and I noticed several species of shrubs that are found no higher up on the Missouri than Council Bluffs. Our distance that day was not more than eight miles. The water of White river is very peculiar, oe a large quan- tity of sassy and aluminous matter held in suspension, so that it has much the appearance of milk. When “allOeed to stand for a short time, or ihibiiovér it is found in pools, a thick scum may bes — the surface very much of the appearance and —— of rich m,; removing aera and the thinner portion is ok lighte r
bull boats for over one hundred miles from its mouth. We > fo und plenty of antelopes near our camping place. Our Indian killed two fine ones, which formed a most acceptable addition to our larder.
n the following day we passed over a fine rolling upland prairie on the northern slope of the dividing ridge between White river and Running Water. After descending “two steep hills which border the river bottoms, pee — slopes gently towards the south for a dis- cance of fifteen o ——- nies _— a —_ ridge which is visible in the
dist ance an 4 pene prmaie ith p nOur ur course W se nbout pe weet.
2?
* They posed Pai sppropratly na may things of the deepest interes this valley, nea as pao: it is a terra incognita. All Somat on the right side of —
tiver flow from perpetual springs in the distant ridge, and even in
74 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
May 13.—We again travelled due west across a fine rolling prairie. We met with large numbers of a peculiar species of cactus just coming into bloom, (Mammaria nuttalii.) It is more abundant here than any- where else on the Upper Missouri. We camped at night on Grass creek—another fine stream, similar to those before mentioned. At our left, in the distance, we could see a tall, naked white butte, called Eagle Nest butte, from the fact that an eagle has built her nest on the summit from time immemorial. Although it rises to the height of one hundred and fifty feet, with nearly perpendicular sides, its strati- fication is perfectly horizontal, presenting a more conspicuous example of the terrible denuding action which has been felt in the valley. its summit I found several species of plants in bloom that I observed no where else on the route.
Me
portions of Kansas. We camped at night on a fine stream called ‘The creek where the Indians plant corn.’? Our Indian guide spent a day here planting a small patch of corn and pot
as far as we could see, was fine rolling prairie clothed with vegetation, while on our ri 1 of ‘« Bad Lands’’ loom up, assuming
Indian guide led us along an old buffalo track, a very rugged road, a
always follow a buffalo trail, for this animal always selects the most
practicable route mouth of this creek is the most beautiful exhibition ve ever seens « eat:
_On the 18th we camped near a fine spring, which was but a little distance from it, ed to stop a day or two and explore it. Our animals needed rest, and of good grass and water. lope meat, I
arted out, ¢ panied by reat te and ascending an elevation which was above the bad ground, looked down upon one of the grand- est views Lever beheld. The denuded area was nearly square in form, and the immense flat concretions that projected out from the sides ot
the per pend
_ above each other, resembled some vast theatre; indeed, it reminded
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 75
me of what I had imagined of the amphitheatre of Rome, only nature works upon a far grander scale than man. We climbed with great difficulty down the steep sides, following the main channel of the little stream, and after much winding through this labyrinthian ——! we came to an open plateau covered with fine grass, and in the centre a beautiful grove of cedars, and through the whole a nae of milky water wound its way to White river, about five miles distant. All r
conical pyramid standing alone. We felt very much as though we were in a sepulchre, and, indeed, we were in a cemetery of a pre- ____ Adamite age, for all around us at the base of these walls and pyramids -. were heads and tails, and fragments of the same, of he of which are not known to exist at the present da e spent that day and the following exploring the cemetery, which the jcatiAins power of water had laid open for our inspection, and many fine specimens rewarded our labors
nthe morning of the 21st, we started for White sas on which we cam mped. We were about to leave behind us good grass and water, for in the direction we were going we could expect nothing but a desert and salt water. The bottoms were, as usual, quite good, but the hills that bordered it were terribly denuded, showing us that we were still in ‘Bad Lands.’’ The following morning we crossed the
kind casionally a big horn was added, which made a very Mrs "sala The meat of the female has much the flavor of m On the fol- _— pac we camped on a tributary of White. eee. eabataries
next day we were Hecletine of getting to Beat etek, te cmd “camp- : ing aa of Visitors to the Bad Lands. — road was exceedingly - tugged, winding among the terrible canons nd gullies. — We = poe ae et through without again catpesiti ng our carts, and were _ obliged | g pack Ror st aga erable eae Atlast we strack she main road between Tort ae and Fort Laramie, @ and then our
HE Eee & = g > a 8 i S
we tH e 5 Be ne BEE: zg
exploring a large area of mosti tetanic =o but by Indians. The lo
76 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
the large and valuable collections which have already been ag to the States by Mr. A. Culbertson, Captain Van Vliet; Dr. Evans, and
others, and furnished the wiaherial for the magnificent wot of Profes- a sor Leidy, ‘‘The Ancient Fauna of Nebraska, ’? published by the —
Smithsonian Institution. We spent five days at this locality, and with the mammalian remains <i collected in other places, our carts were loaded to their utmost. I noticed one peculiarity in peers
dition. In passing out of the Bad Lands our carts were much im- _
peded by the mud, but when we ascended upon the plateau above, the storms ceased, and thirty miles east of that point we could see no indi- cations of its having rained for several weeks. From Bear creek we
ade an ascent of two hundred feet to a broad plateau, extending, . with little interruption, to the head of Teton river, a distance of about fifty miles. The formation upon which this plateau rests is a ane
affords a fine pasture cian for numerous iii of ante On the night of the 30th, we camped at Sage creek, so ae among voyageurs and travellers, for the Purgaly qualities ‘of its water. I stopped here several days i in the summer of 1853, with my friend, F. B. Meek, esquire, and both ourselves aad horses experienced its weak- ening effect. This creek rises in the Bad Lands, and taking a north- east course, empties into the Shyenne. It is somewhat noted for the abundance of fine Cretaceous fossils that are found along its banks. For about four miles east of Sage creek the road is very rugged, until we again ascend to the table land. Twelve miles distant is Bull cree ek, also a tributary of the Shyenne, and takes its rise in the Bad Lands. e dividing ridge egress the Shyenne and White rivers, forms
the goat elevaiad porti of the Bad Pan Fifteen miles east of Bul eek inon’s fain, a noted camping place pomong voya- me ‘ies one of the very few good springs of water on the road gous a t Pierre and Fort Laramie. — It is the head of the Teton
nd is o called in the Sioux language. It runs in an. opposite
direction | to the creek before mentioned, for about four miles, then passing through the eastern portion of the Bad Lands, eae the Teton, takes a due east course, and empties into the Missouri four below Fort Pierre. Near this spring is an elevated i BO com: of white aluminous and calcareous marl, containing slabs and Ba fully charged with fossil shells of the genera Lymnea, Planorbis, Physa
nae. &e., also seeds of Chara and fish remains, oak of the shells
ve alread: Besy described by Drs. Evans and Shum ard. It isa curious fact, that though these shells are of extinct species, living shells of the same genera, and plants of living Chara, are now existing
ied tr runs at the base of the ridge. The remainder of u Dae 27 pr heads of the other as of the same ih very Tittle wood and poor water, and at this time the — yy was so parched that very chic ae a: rass could be sbikined for animals. On June 6 we arrive ort Pierre pay having |
ty days.
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 17
Respecting the climate and eae eo irthaa of plants,
much might be said in this connexion. nere is in this country a wet and a dry season, The wet season usually commences about the middle of March, and continues until the middle of May. The rains
during this time are frequent and severe. It has been ces to rain thirty days in succession. The dry season commences about the ba
dle of Ju ly, and usually Sentinal through the autumn, and so
times a portion of the winter. Perhaps s three-fourths of the = a of the country are in blossom during the mouths of May and June, or the first half of July. During the month of September the ground comes parched by drought, and very little vegetation clothes the prairies, ja everything has the aspect of desolation. ery few flowers are in , except now and then a composite plant. The principal portion of, the flora of the upper Missouri belongs to the great fami- lies of Crucifere, Leguminose, Composite, “ Chenopodiacece, and Graminee. Of Cryptogamic plants there is a great dearth. I found but two species of Ferns above Council Bluffs; very few Mosses, Lichens and Fungi. Throughout the limestone region of the State of Missouri, we have the sugar maple { Acer Sacharinum] i in great abundance, also many species of oaks and hickory. These cease A latitude 423°. At the mouth of Big Sioux we find Fraxinus Americana, Fraxinus quad- rangulata, Tilia, Americana, quite abun dunt. Gymnocladus Cana- densis, sixty feet in height. Populus Cap dene:®, the most abundant tree in upper Missouri. Ulmus fulva, common, associated with Jug- lans nigra, Juglans cinerea, Celtis oviclend ii Gleditschia tricanthos, Acer rubrum, from which the Indians formerly made sugar on the Big Sioux and Vermilion rivers, two or three species of 0: c. Among the under shrubs may be Pneitianed the bullberry, She herdia argentea, which commences its growth at this point. Spe ap the borders
Geter of species. At the mouth of Running Water, latitude ite 30, any of these trees and abiuhe cease, and we have from A. ae mountains very few forest hee the mh me agent mus
mences in the Tertiary beds, near Fort Clark, and often covers the arid hi hills in that formation as with a carpet. I saw it in one locality in White river valley, on the top of Eagle Nest butte. On the high mes es of the Running Water, White river, Black Hills, on the Yellow- stone, and on the Missouri, above Fort Union, a species of pine is quite abundant—Pinus brachyptera. In the Bad Lands of ee ‘udith, - a second eae of that family occurs, and it is the only locality where - [have seen it—Abi i ae, ice About fifty miles below Fort Pierre, &. ‘remarkable saline Be ad t makes its appears! tig A t discovered by Sepaiibe Maximilian, in
country i in 1832. It elon to the family Ch
78 EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN
Fort Union, near the Muscle-shell, it covers the bottoms, to the exclu-
sometimes two or three inches in diameter. I observed the Lleagnus Argentea in but one locality, on the high hills above Fort Clark. the edible roots we find the most important one to be Psoralea esculenta, —
Lana)
The lower tribes of the Sioux, who have but little game, subsist almost entirely on it for several months of the year. It is eaten raw
i 5 sandy borders of streams, and is procured during February and March.
any of the others before mentioned, but one which is oftentimes o: much importance to the hungry voyageur or Indian is the rosebud, as. it is called, that is the fruit of a species of Rosa that remains on the
THE MISSOURI AND PLATTE RIVERS, ETC. 79
& _ In 1850, buffalo were seen as low down on the Missouri as Vermil- ion river, and in , a few were mart near Fort Pierre, but at the present time none, un nless it be a str y bull, are seen below Fort Clark.
Even at the base of the Black Hills it would be difficult for a party of ___white men to support themselves by hunting. Probably at this time
. game, such as buffalo, antelope, elk, big horn and beaver, are more __ abundant in the Yellowstone valley than in any other portion of aa __ upper Missouri. In descending the Yellowstone river in 1854 fo
distance of 350 miles, I “ not think there was a moment in which I could not see game in great numbers. In the vicinity of Floyd’s bluff, and from thence to Running Water, the red deer (Cervus Virginianus) is quite abundant, and the Santees from the Mississippi, and the Yank- _____ tons, who spend the summer near Fort Pierre, resort here during the fall and winter to hunt them. A few elk are see n, but not abundant. _ Wild turkeys are very abundant in this region, but usually keep near the boundaries of civilization. A few have been seen at the mouth of White river and in the rt bees the vicinity of the frontier myriads
possibly as high up the Missouri as Dorion’s hill. Here another closely allied species, “Tetrao phasianellus, takes the place of the Tetrao cupido, and is quite abundant from thence to the mountains. The quail { Or- tyx Virginiana] has not been seen above the mouth of Running Water.
he most northern limit of the Sciurus magnicandatus, or fox
killed one on the shore of the river, forty miles above the mouth of Running Water. They are quite abundant about Floyd’s bluff, and their skins are a considerable article of trade with the lower tribes of Indians. The black tailed deer (Cervus macrotis) is seldom seen be- low Fort Pierre. It is found chiefly in the ravines and in the most rugged portions in the vicinity of the Black Hills and the mountains.
The a ppneble ene ae ‘the Shyenne and gies creek are noted
food, The beaver is increasing very rapidly and many of the moun- tain streams literally with the are over, and the price of the fie has becuihie 480 reduced, t
inducements to hunt them are not very great, and they are allowed to multiply gpa Their flesh is eaten to some extent by the Indians, and i tes drseng of other meat is considered quite a deli- cacy. ‘There a sSocathes to be no diminution in the wolves and foxes, and as they are of little economical value, I will not speak of them in detail. _
ote aeaig
riiouh
INDEX.
[The ey ex, tine denotes 8 special reference. ]
A Page. | DIQ SLOTM --- 22 ene e wn cee wwe con eee 6, Tey 79 } F khice Douglassii z Fy. Bi abemne soit *12 _ Acer rubrum 77 Peigus Puver i550. os 522 °13, 34,°67 | ; Acer sack 77 Be Ww Ut ey see 25 _ Agricultural Indian 71,74 || Birds ...... #20, 21,71, 79 8: seeiitrar ands : ack Earth Creek 33, 34 Agricultural beret qecbuct cdswusss Blackfeet Indians .............-. #16, 17, 35 _ American Fur Company -... ---. -18, 19, ar a6K Hills oes 2. . des Seon ausee *6, 66, 67, 71 m ier | Black Walnut , 69 ote Bio SNM. cote ca ak ose 99 | e, W. , °63 Andy’s Lake .....- 34 | Blodget, Lo 41 ‘alll rales 71 |, Blue Water Creek 28, *38, 39 telope 9, 23,71, 76,79 | Bluff formation ..- 69 : Antelope Losin 23 || Bordeaux, James ...--- ......sccees 920, : _ Apios tuber 78 || Bowpith Indians 216 “Anprprition for explorations recom- | Box elde : PEN vrcw cs occnetdewsuenenemee 19 || Brulé Indians ..... -16,17, 19, paker x, es E kféhibutes ferrugineus *21 | Buffalo is 8, 7 _ Aricaree Ind 16, 19, 71 || flo = he "74,75 a «37 |sBall berry ....-. $.. 69, 77, 78 all Crook - pied s Suis hme Seige Re niin se 32, 76 tener iri ‘. 3 : thigh Sailesis: (See Brulés.) ty ] itera (trees) one , 6 2 Buttes des — de Chien .-:0.-- 24, 65 = ] ee db BODHI e kes sods Se neces ss #8, 9, 65 : pe Atlastic States... ...220. 20k. 228 71 | ° G. ik faloephe ere, peculiarity Of olivichs *76 poset, whitehead #91 | Cactus. 74 Calamus 26 B. Campaign np indians 22-2. vedas ) Campbell, Colin....-........ «=~ 20, 88, 39 6, 67, 268, 71,79 | Campbell Cree hi 33 reek 73 | Cannon Ball River ...-. -...- | ere ( r Bad River. (See Teton River.) _Cafions ) er, Jamienc. ce wks Oe 20 | Carboniferous system-..--....--- *67 Balch, Lieut..-.--.- Md escuces._. 20 | Carrey, Pethyrapcecs sie $1,907, a 38, 40 ‘ometers used 40 | Carrey’s Fork é Barometrical observations. (See Errata.) | Cedars 11, 28, 69, x . 46,47, 60, 61,62 | Cedar Creek : Bass, (trees) 69 Cedar Island . : wave Ground 33, 39 | Celtis occidentalis. .------.----- --- é Be poe 71. | Cerasus Virginiana-.----..--------- _ Bears 73 Cervus macrotis Butte 71 Cervus Virginianus .---------- Baan-- _ Bear Creek ...... . 32, 76 || Chaine de Roche Creek-.----- ------ eak 6 | Chalcedony... _ Beaver ...... 31,71, 79 || ¢ ban-san-wWakps. (See James River) Ravier Crk... ee ane. * sears 27 | Chan-ta-pe tan-ya --- _ Beaver dams i 27 | Chanka Creek ..--.--------- -------- Bees oF RTE i ve sens ‘ Cottonwood Creek gh ou ee ta oa eever, Captain ‘eeu aekumat i «es nt eae od henopodiaces? ....-. ---.---+- wsese 10,
( Ex. Doc. 76—6
a INDEX.
Page. jj Pare” Cherry 69 * ead ee pee Saber a a oe fi Chimney Roc Pa Clara, Came Pucca cesveu eee 10, 11 pad Bouis’ Polke Paissete tana leneuce S-ssGees By is Camp ‘offee bean-..-- Colorado desert. = E EOMIDURILIO ca caau vec one cr acee eeeeee :
PIE sew ane needa ns ne® 10, 12, 24, 25,71, 74 —— Butte Cornus sericea....-.---++++----- +--+ 77 | Plastic force of vapor -.-.-.. pepe 58 59 a pues sixes Vacs yecowk = 69 leagnus argentea ..---- c-+-cs succes (8
PULGR ue oa eee es 70 | Elk 2 - ois du Misa gut sncowess--sawe cise 34 | . gue 68 69. 71 Cottonwood ..... ti, 12, 13, 23, 24, a ps | Elm Creek * Sats pe 8, 69, 7 | Boom ts ; y’s Creek BED Ses a Sees sha amie kpanic a Sonyms atropurpurens -...----+-- 77 sau vans, 70 @ Cretaceous fossils 76 || . Biwadibss sysions. 567, #70,7 3 Mare fe at the end of the Index. Crook’s Puint ...- 37 Crow Cree | HS row Indians 9, #19, 68 y Crucifera Orns ‘ / Cryptogamic plants ot anu J wei alee 77 | Rerries.-.--..--------- , 15, 22, 25, 33, « Calber ertson, A 20, 36, 76 ] stibe country on Slisaourt Tiver. -..« ] ) urtis, “y Pre eee ae 20 ] ir = Steel c reek. Hammers cer wee cennene * 26, 30, 71, 7 owe yo D. ort rthold B's Dac ‘ort Clark : Beier oe spell ing ee a | Port Grattan ; rales words of the language.....- Be A gpdboricerda "a
Common war ground...... -...---- gS gird deme #18, 4
Pawnees driven from home by sideetiso 11 || £Ort flere. .----- .--+0. *18, 22, #38, 40, 41
Country occupied by anes a5 | = ore Ridgely wee ‘
Bands ep aan the nation ...---. 15,16 | Fossils..---.------ 63, %
Estimated numbers .... .-...----. BG:|| & PROM. «=
honk gee of Shyenne country .--. =—-17 | eat squirrel
Mod. subsietenee «.aees ckce cock 17+, Prax inus quedrangulais alee s waned kee of obtaining horses -*..---. 17 | "raxinus a eg
Ski arfare PBN Se eae ae bs 7 (es émon*, ot ain * i
rr of shooting arrows. ..... re 17 | Fruits a
of aim. - 17 it ‘ungi .
] yeateuatia by small-pox . .....--- 17
Numbers increasing ........-...-. ¥7 | G.
’ fF TODOWR seein vec eniss liane 17 | ‘
Yesire for plunder ..---.-.-..---. 17 | Galpin, Mr 20,21
d for Seasielating offences... 17 | Galpin’s Camp 36
TInadequacy of peaceful policy with . 17 Game 78,79
aaieery facencion of country essen- ( oe a of Nebraska. ...-.. cdcnse
17 || Geology ....~.... 6, 11, 25, 26, 34, 36, 63, ts nhs war with Pawnees....-........ 19)| Girard, Dr. Charles. cccceie tices.
At peace with Poncas ...... .--... 19 || Gleditset WE ete
geese ity for chastising northern “12
- ae = ( out Hen venresaces eens 20,5
ver
ee na lower tribes of Sioux 78 || ( send ori Dead Man's norms pail ie Si WANE oe cea a+~ By 9, 32, 14, 22, * mm
6, 23, 29,79 || Grasshoppers.....- <viivanevenwee 3 ca seaman enoens 70, 7, 73,75 Grattan, Lieutenant ; © Grattan eee ww ee eee eee weer p Devil's Lakes ase Gre: from St. Louis to mouth of Great Bend, storm 66. o1senescn5 cued Riv er eer ee ow ewe { J , James... S iatindiedtiad —- *24, 65 || Grindstone Buttes C swat Gueues 69, 70 izzly bear
INDEX.
Page. 31 77
_ Harney, General W. S tes wentarh rough-legged.....--..
‘Hay. den, Dr. V. F ‘Helianthus
75, 16, 74, 79 *15y16, 19, ie:
adi sn, sartedlcar ral. Tadian 8, names and authority for spell-
24, 31, 74, 79
21,25 Tota vegeta food OF oven wehase 78 tribes 0.
19 16, i ba
1¢:19; Boy TOG, 29, "(eo Beales. ye
ae ittetinchos
Mandans Mde-wakan-tonwans
wD, il, 16, {6,91 , 10, 19, 25 | 16,35 |
| ~mrbiel * (Bee Isanties.)-.....-- 16, 17, 19)
eee wee
ee ee
‘Isantie
P Rus Indians wie ce ees cc ee Itazipchos Indians. (See Errata)..... J. pt sh & ae 2
James aire Jewitt, Fours} fe Fort Pierre to Fort
Suglans cinerea uglans nigr
Keya A erie
np
Li 16, br 71 ||
La aille Creek
amie road
Labyrinthian Sepulchre........-.--. — apai
}
| Tatit udes
L'Eau qui Court River
— eb re, Jean Leguminoz
Leidy, Professor
in 68 ‘Little Missouri River. sce Teton River.) Phos le BS!)
— -
8 |} | ‘Loup ee
Long, Sig
jor. bn BEI Geert epics | Longitu
Llano stack
— Pawnee River.)
“Menken W. (See White River.) Maple
Maps ne ee terrats). oe
“Mausase Lobel (See Bad Lands.) Maximilian, Pri Seacceraks an- ne f Loe : eporent : United States... 41, ue
| Moticine River
7, *18, 319, a
Ocaes ince if *
o ae tary pos Mili ary rese ates Fort ere Indians. nita! “Mini-to-wa-pacta (See Blue Water ¢ a
were teen
e Il eThanktonwans.), 2,
| Bennitare Indians... ---- Et 2 gait
Page : antec sr Seuriedvscrcecd sosta. 33 | HABOUNERAVOD: dua Soak roses Suk *9, 11, 68 | Mitchell's Creek : 00 Moreau River.... 67 | Moreau Road 37 Mormon Emigration...........----- 13 MMSiia5 Sdciecrreraecweenies Muddy Creek Mulberry: sc. coseesis eee epee A N. AVOL: OWOE sco wares Ss eek ke ess sf avigation of James River. ..-..
Navigation of Missouri River....-... 10, 18 || avightion of Platte reat ‘eben 1 Ribes Navigation of Shyenne River......-... 37 Riviere 2 Jaques. (See James R.) ae raska, — conclusions of phy- | Roads. (See routes.) 6, 17, 15, 18, mene : cal fea 21, 22 || 31;¢ abicska,. iinove age of geography, | Roots 26, 78 e., and necessity for further ex- | Rosa 78 plorations 19,20) Rose bud... 77,78 egundo — jee Coe we Re ek outes 5, 13, 14, 18; #2 Nicollet, I. N ..-.-- 20, 4 eee from Fort ea Fort Lar- Niobrara ‘hiece (See l’Eau qui Court, ) ; 98, 29 , AA Route from Fort Laramie to Fort : O. PiOIe sons corre te a 9, 32: t Route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kear- Usteast cues cbse 11, 12, 28, 34, 69,71, 77 | a4 22, 29, 46
Q. Page. Quail 7 | Quercus IMACTOCAT PA 26'S ios eee q45 _R.
77 || oY | oe tae 69
1, 9 eerie
eee eee
79
6, 36, 41, 42 “Rapid eye — VEau qui Court.) 29
‘Ra whide , 39 Rawhid a 6- | Reconnaissances recommended ..-.-.. 19, 29: | Ree we Ne comb Se pe talis/ssisetous mf
e from Fort Pierre to Sioux ¢ city.
Prairie dog village.............. 69, 73, ksh } eevhenry Dr é. Sh enne Indians. eseer ere eee eee eee 16, 17, nlotor 79 Shyenne River......-- canna *37, *67,70, 7 Peolaria esculenta... ..........000. — angus Indians. “(See Brulés.) ~ meter 40 | Sihasapas. Indians. (See Blackfeet.)
(48, 57
4 er Creek
71 — expen. sesaseul
Ogalala Sesh ere #16)719, *38,-39 eating water. (See l’Eau qui Court.) > arc omen 9 he- n-pas tadiece #16 Ss. Ortyx “Virginiana ‘ 79 | Ovis m Ses 79 Sage Creek r | Saline shrub I 4 3a. ik ca | Salt incrustations Pacific Railroad —— on 20,66 Salt Springs Pawnee Indians. ...2.....2.. 9, 11; 16, 19, 2 | Sand cherry Pawnee River “11, 26,27 Sand Hills Physa 76 Sans Arc Indi PUNO See ses cee. u cee 6, 11, 12, 37, 69,71,77 Santee Indians. “Gee mp Jikvwacd Pino’s sp 76 Sarcobetus vermicularis. ............ — uae 77 Scenery in Sand Hills 8 a ee ee eee 64, 65,76 Sciurus — ee Star UeVoRieuecs ou 9) 68,74, 75, Tj boi eh ta — OVER ae Ree ed rubby ‘ bec Scbwbeu sweety “41 27; #66 || i Selenite eri 12, 25, 78 | Plum Creek 28 | § etlementa er fice 6, *17, _ Pomme blanche, (errata,) 78s 64, 65, POG TANS oi vce 9, 10, 19, 4 shaper erdia argenta Pope, Captain Shining Hills cession
oo
INDEX.
% Page.
Sioux Seal < <n Dacotahs.) Topogr phy of Nebra
Sisi-tonw 15) Traneporation, ropes, &e.
Sketc T — species pla Tre
Battle ground: ret Water Cr...-.. 38
t. YEau qui Court.....--. 63 |) Turkey Ridge | Turkey Ridge Creek -...- be ate cae a Turtles. (See Errata) Tu rtle Hill Turtle Hill creek U. 79 || Ulmus Americana..---.------ casual ; ¥ bury, C 20, 21, 29,41 Ulmus fulva eer re. 77 oe Staphylin trifeliata 77 | Unk-papa Indians -....-.. #16, 17, 18, 19, 3 tilonifera. .----- ‘ ae. OTMB22---. ------ + +---s #39, #41, *43, *45 a ; Sugar, maple ~e ess 69 | Van Vliet, Captain ...---..--------- Surv military. reserve, Fort Pierre. *35 || Vegetables ie Swallow, Professo wi ese one 69 || Vegetation Syc 69 | Vermilion River Semglbolsicar pus vulgaris.---...----- 77 Vine, culture of Syphon barometers used .-.--.------ 0 | Vites 76.7 (Voyageurs ..---. --2--+ eeens eee eee 70,71 T. Ww. : mein and distan 6,47 Barom. observations. (See Eira ) 6, 47 | Ww ahpa Shica. ae Teton R.) 1,62) Wah-pe-kute Indians -....---------- 15s Distances from St. mor to aenke. | Wab-pe- e-ton-wan iudiass wuaee scenes 163 of Yellowstone Rive 3 bastard aaeer gig IZ @ Of vapor .------.,--- . 58,59 | Warren’s Fork Latitude, longitude, &c-.-.-------- Wat (See ee Springs. }ievuene 6, 22, 34, *73 Psychrometrical ob 48 || Waterholes Creek-.-----~----- ------ Talk with Indians .-----.----------- 38 || Washesha-ouza-wahpa. (See Vermilion R. de Temperature .----- 60, 6L | ‘Werarhe Indians....-....--------- Terra incognita. ..-----.----------- 73 W nohenomennyd River a ry Basin... .- 67,73 Wet eesus a Tertiary System -..---.------------ 70) White "Clay Bee) Peer eek SLs Tr cy isla ies *1, 23, *67, 72, 76 || White River..-.--.--- *12, 23, 30, 67, 72, Was Tetrao cupido ....--..----- +--+ ---- 79 i © Wood R. (See James R. ) one Tetrao ophasianclive i soos Saddell wie 9 || Wild horse...-....---- +--+ e---- a Tilia ds choke ok 77 ‘Willows. ievaienae 12, 24, 26, wie rte m8 . PRET ooo... *6, 13, 37, ae a *71,72 Willow Creek -.-..----------- Ash 1, 32, 68, 71 | Winship, Major O. F.- : Nee os eS ce sae 69 | Wolf River. (See Pawn R.) » Black walnut _.. 68,69 Wood-...------- *6, *10, 12, 14, 22, 34, 72,73 x elder 69,71 | (See Timber.) ae int aaa al eeel ue eicc owes 68, ¢ | haa une we wowee bosses 28, 69, 75 a ae fb GA eee n nevaalehd seer > 12, 13, $894, 26, 27 7 | | Wood apoe bdss vos beseecees 68, 69, i | | Wounded Kees Greek... .-.s sss scuse
Grease wood 73 ickory, -- 79) ae aple ..-- 69,77 Mulberry ------ )| Yankton Indians. (See Thanktonwans.) — 0 11, 12, 24, 34, 69, 71, 77 Yanktonnais Indians. (See Ihank ‘ Pine bie age eration bags esecceGy 11, R, of; 69, vay ; Yellowstone River «sees week ones ooee _ Prickly ash.------- 69 _ Sycamore ..----- 69 Z. WEIOW i ocr. tess 12, 24, 26, 27, 30, 34, 72 : Titonwan Indians ----- --------------- -*16 | Zanthoxylum Americanum ---- pices 33) Zhicha Kaga- eeoaes
oka Kiya-Wahpa.----- seeeee esa } diel
vi: INDEX.
ERRATA.
For “scale of 1 to 300,000,” read “scale of 1 to 3,000,000,” 22d line from bottom, page 20; same in letter to Colonel Abert, preceding the report, and i in the table of contents. or “ Ttazi i i di
ere
3} = = ic) = = io | 5 —* 3 = 3 R > iQ
Ttazi For ‘‘ Washté Wahpa,” read “ tig ashté,” 20th line from bottom, uae ve For “ James Boldeaux,” read “ Jam Bordeaux,” 10th line from bottom For “Alexander Cu bertstone, ” read “Alexand er Culbertson,” ath —— from aottems page 20. After “ Chenopodiaceous,” read “ plants,” 4th line from top, pag ' For “tails,” faa “turtles,” 12th line from top, page 75. ae a “ species,’ omit “ of,” 12th line from top, » Page eo For “mud,” read “ wind,” 25th line from botto m, page F oF < pomme blande,” read “ pomme blanche,” 11th lias: from top, page 78.
Table 6, page 60.
July 17, 3 p. m., for “354,” read “254.” July 17, 4 p. m., for “ 160,” read “937.” July 19, 2a.m., for “534,” read “634.”
y 22, 3 p. m., for “491,” read “391. Sean the means.at the bottom of a table.
Table 7, page 61.
Disregard the ges 8 the bottom of the
Table 9, page 62, makes the mance ms Ge daily curve about $5 of an inch greater than the sbarrentiona j in Rails 6 call for
Sen Fx Doc. 76-1. Sees 34.Cong
Spe: Steeles Ce tos
da
Place to ple ‘ue many of al were here killed or taken,
SCALE OF MILES. 9 1 '
. Place of concealmert of
“iy
emt
i: a 4 Ge % = "Din = \ $ oN : 4 Ri. sé : g a " 5 7 3 A EC Genta
AAA ALA
2nviles, |
%4tnch to one mile
Note. Ash Hollow tone x
mounted men under Cal Cooke.
-
‘its the field of action of the force
#\ rney’s Carp. Sept. 4 5&6. \
arr eon
under the command of BVT. BRIG. GENL.W. S HARNEY in the attack of the 3! Sept. 1855, on the Brule’ Band of the Indian Chief LITTLE THUNDER
_ made by : - Lieut.G. K.Warren, : Ty. Eng: Sof pegs ccain sqt.J=
02 24 mae a Fe 184
: ae 536 Ci one. I.
X76 LSes
or dase neboer Rew
= i een Sees we Fiakhes,, <a eit a Three "Butt
BLACK FEET
Riviere asx Maries
a
a R.
Neltmee ¥y stag rf “ibe la oa stora?™|
Maison duChien ~
cia
it
fen
i‘ T =3 T “
PHOAN'N.
Sie G* whi
pppoe?
ale f Bs ( ANDANS . i se MRF, nw a
a
ye ARI # CAREES
SS.
1807
ft
‘xX PL OR ED: ; |
|
Capt lark Yo ORE ‘ Ale:
Ws a
. We
kare Wor Comevers sali i9 « ‘: yt :
( ° &
cA (i 3 (i &.
Warnarse Z Sy
“ebion
~~ — (7 CON Stone pp . & ae
Meer zg, Pe |
. a ~
oven OOM He Re 3 ,
Keo fel emte a, GreendR. pop BOTS ote Rte: Se gn" ee
aaa
~~<scomeee
Lorwyn, = | © Lamaze. op. Jy "Wore pe | a |
fa SE one
Tea.
ALALA DAC OTA =) Podge Bote. Cr.
Sh a ws
voy, ~~,
Bilin ap
Ty. Dp ia “a Lap, a oa az,
7
\
iY
ie ae
164 Boe - ae f
oh vd fra r es
Bradys Islan (i
\
\ \ \ \
je
Section of Map COMPILED IN P.R.R.OFFICE Willeadditids Lestgeel 60 Wtestr cate’ tWARRENS REPORT of MILITARY . : ORS in the Dacota Country =a — Saas 4 Nee fs 2s é A v ses aide. 1855 | eee
Scale of 1: 2ccc00e
radon — 4 atte “id ol
dow ey.
Lisle?
eee at oe ¥ plice? Rer*
Compiled by Lt Warren, TE. * Drawn by & Frevhad
Grand Satine Epp