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COPYRIGHT DEPOSz:

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LIFE AND EXPRESSION

MODERN BREAKING |

A TREATISE ON THE
REARING, BREAKING AND HANDLING

OF

SETTERS
AND POINTERS

Kis

Embodying the Methods Employed by the Most
Successful Breakers and Field Trial
Handlers of the Day.

ILLUSTRATED.

THE BLAKELY PRINTING COMPANY
CHICAGO, ILL.
1906

LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two Copies Receiver
FEB 15 1906

Gy Copyright Entry

Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1906 by
WILLIAM A. BRUETTE
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D, C.

THE ILLUSTRALIONS IN TIS BOOK
are from paintings by

Pror. E. H. OstuHaus OF TOLEDO, OHIO.

CONTE EINES

CHAT EH Re: I,
INTRODUCTION.—Training an art; knowledge of self; skill
required to handle a dog; ruined dogs; incompetent
owners ; professional breakers.

CHAPTER II.
SETTERS AND Poinrers.—The merits of each and their par-
ticular sphere of usefulness.

CHAP DAR: LET
SELECTING A Puppy.—Pedigrees and their value; rearing;
kenneling ; feeding; diseases of puppyhood; prevention
of gunshyness.
CHAP THR: Shy:

NAMING Dogs.—Short names the best; compound names a
nuisance; originality desirable.

Vis
NOMENCLATURE.—Breaking and field trial terms; obsolete
words; pointing; flushing; backing; drawing; roading;
pottering; blinking; stanch; ranging; quartering ;
snappy, merry style; bird sense cramped ; loosening up;
class; mutt.

CHAPTER Vr.
TRAINING IMPLEMENTS.—Whip; whistle; check cord; lead ;
spike collar.
CHAPTER VII.

Know THYSELF.—Breaking the breaker ; pronounced in-
stincts not intelligence; mistakes of amateurs ; study-
ing the young dog.

CHAPTER, VIIt.

First Lessons.—lIntroduction to game, developing cour-
age; encouraging fondness for field work.

CHAR THR LX.

YARD BREAKING.—The old lesson of to-ho; stopping to order ;
stopping to uplifted hand.

CHAPTER X.

PoINTING INSTINCT.—The machinery of the point instinct
versus intelligence; steadying the young dog; dropping
to wing.

CHAPTER XI.

YARD BrREAKING.—Dropping to order, shot and wing; walk-
ing to heel.

CHAPTER XII.
BACKING.—A form of the pointing instinct; bad manners;
rushing in; independence of character.

CHAPTER. Slr,
RANGING.—Quartering; field trial methods; coveys and sin-
gle birds; grouse and woodcock dogs; turning out.
CHAPTER XIV.
RETRIEVING.—Natural and force system; dangers of the

spike collar; a new method.
CHAPTER XV.

GUNSHYNESS.—Overcoming fear of the gun.

CHAPTER XVI.

BAD BREAKING—FAULTS AND VICES.—The trailing dog; bark-
ing at horses; rabbit chasing; egg sucking; sheep
chasing; howling; muddy paws.

CHAPTER XVII.

CONDITIONING.—Racehorse methods; feeding; exercise; the
thermometer; massage; plethora; sore feet; lameness;
clipping.

CHAPTER XVIII.
Don’rvs.

G4 Ack Ta Rs

INTRODUCTION.—Training an art; knowledge of self; skill
required to handle a dog; ruined dogs; incompetent
owners; professional breakers.

NE of the first things the amateur should

learn is that the breaking of setters and
pointers for field use is not so much of a
science as it is an art. To know all the conven-
tional methods of accomplishing certain results
in dog breaking is one thing, but even with
this knowledge stored in his head, the breaker
has much to learn if he would avoid failure.
He must learn the why and the wherefore of the
technique of dog breaking, and he must know
considerable about the psychological side of the
setter and pointer to make a good application of
the conventional methods of dog breaking.

Nor is this all. More important than mere
technical knowledge of the science of breaking,
and the peculiarities of setter or pointer dispo-
sition, is the knowledge of self. To every ama-
teur and many professionals this knowledge of
self must seem the simplest part of the art of
dog breaking to acquire, and yet it will bear
repetition—it is the most difficult. The human

IO Modern Breaking

ego is large—very large and extremely sensi-
tive—and to tell a man he has not sense enough
to break a dog after he has been told how
would seriously offend him. But it is neverthe-
less true that a man who has done little break-
ing does not know how to do it, even if he has
all the rules by heart. The difficulty is he does
not understand himself as he thinks he does.
He will do things he may have determined not
to do, and he will omit to do things he
had determined upon doing. Then he will
do things in a different manner from what he
should do them. Again, there are nerves and
notions in a man’s make-up that never find
expression until he tries his hand at breaking a
high-strung setter or pointer. In short, the man
who starts out to break a setter or pointer with
the idea that he knows himself will be fooled,
and the dog, if not entirely spoiled, will fall
short’ of that. deeree .of excellence ie asian
have reached in the hands of a man who had
taken the precaution to understand himself be-
fore he began the task of educating his dog.
The amateur who becomes reasonably expert
in breaking his own dog has accomplished more
than the saving of the one hundred dollars he
would have paid a trainer. He will have suc-
ceeded in educating himself as well as his dog,
so that he knows himself better than he did
before and will have secured a control over his

Modern Breaking II

temper that will be of value to him in all his
business: aud social. aftairs,. The’ bunches of
nerves which all men possess that go off, as it
were, at times, upon slight provocation will be
under better control, and his stock of patience
and spirit of forbearance will have undergone
a development that will enable him to view
former worries with urbanity.

There is an increased pleasure in shooting
over a dog of your own development and break-
ing, and in addition the man who has had some
insight into the psychological side of a dog’s
nature has in handling even a well-broken dog
an immense advantage over the man who looks
at a dog simply as a-machine, without knowing
anything of the art of breaking.

We have all heard the wail of the man de-
frauded in buying a dog represented as broken
which was worse than unbroken, or of the man
who nad,sent a,doe to. a breaker paid the: fee
and had his dog ruined or returned wilder than
when he sent him away. The dog, when he
left his hands, went directly into the hands of
his master, who, unfamiliar with the methods
of dog breaking and unqualified to systematic-
ally go to work with the animal, so as to keep
him up to all that he knew, was unable to
control him and allowed him to display bad
tricks or traits of character or develop new
ones. If sportsmen would go to the trouble of

12 Modern Breaking

seeing their dogs hunted for a day or two by
the breaker, and carefully observe his peculiar
modes of speech and action with these dogs, it
would serve as a guide to their own conduct
toward their dogs in insisting upon their living
up to their breaking. To be sure there are dis-
honest breakers, just as there are dishonest
merchants, ministers and doctors, but the pro-
fessional handlers of to-day—and there are
numbers of them—are as reliable as the mem-
bers of any profession. Their statements can be
accepted. If a dog which appears wild and
unbroken is received from a breaker of reputa-
tion, the sportsman should not jump at the con-
clusion that he has been defrauded. The dog
should be given an opportunity to get acquainted
with his new master, and the owner should
study himself. Perhaps he does not know how
to handle a dog. This will be a difficult thing
for him to confess, and besides, having paid his
money for a broken dog, he is likely to expect
too much. A dog is not a piece of machinery
that can be run with an oil can and wrench.
He is a bundle of nerves and muscles, energy
and pronounced instincts. These, properly
handled, will go far to increase his owner’s
pleasure in the field. Even if the dog were
simply a piece of machinery, like an automobile,
the purchaser would not attempt to run it until
he had received a course of instruction as to

FIELD TRIAL WINNING POINTER, YOUNG JINGO.
Owned by Hobart Ames, Boston, Mass.

Modern Breaking 15

its mechanism, its care and handling. It can be
stated safely that half the dogs which go out of
the breakers’ into the owners’ hands valuable
animals are next to worthless in a year’s time,
simply because the owner has given no time
or study to the art of dog breaking. Therefore,
no one should attempt to direct and handle the
wonderful and delicate instincts of a high-class
dog until he knows something of the theory and
art of dog breaking. No matter how well a
dog may be broken, the time will come when
something will go wrong with him. If his
owner understands dog breaking the fault may
be corrected. If not, it gets worse and worse,
and a well-broken dog may be ruined, because
the owner does not know how to handle him.

Then there is the man who expects to buy a
well-broken dog for twenty-five or fifty dollars,
or hopes to get his dog broken for that amount,
and finally complains of being cheated and says
dog men are dishonest. This man is not deserv-
ing of sympathy. In the first place, he started
out to get two dollars’ worth of goods for one
dollar in money. This, in the abstract, is just
as dishonest as disposing of one dollar’s worth
of goods for two dollars in money. Honest
men never buy green goods. If you cannot
afford to pay a reputable breaker the regular
fee of one hundred or one hundred and fifty

16 Modern Breaking

dollars for breaking a dog, make up your mind
to be your own breaker.

This book is not intended to be a profound
treatise on the subject of dog breaking, but an
effort will be made to present in concise form a
practical work on the subject. It will be based
upon personal experience and observation of the
best .methods,.of “the (prominent meld tral
handlers of the day. The reader will find some.
facts in this work that are old, but he will also
find much that is new. In short, these chapters
aim to give, in a simple, concise manner, an
up-to-date method of dog breaking, good for
either amateur or professional to follow, and to
explain the whys and wherefores of the art so
as to enable the man of limited means to be his
own breaker, and the man of wealth to handle
intelligently the dog he has had in the hands of
a professional breaker.

CHAPTER: Ff.

Sprrers vs. Pornrers.—The merits of each and their par-
ticular sphere of usefulness.

HE relative merits of setters and pointers
have been the subject of such lengthy
discussion, and _ their respective advocates
display so much energy in ventilating their
opinions through the columns of the sports-
men’s papers, that the amateur is sometimes
undecided as to which to select. Without
taking sides, the subject can be summed up and
dismissed as being simply a matter of likes.
No two men are alike, consequently qualities
that please and completely satisfy one man do
not appeal to another. There is also a good
deal in that to which a man has become accus-
tomed. If pointers suit one man _ better than
setters, it simply means that pointers are better
for him; but it does not follow that the breed
is better as a whole than setters, and vice versa.
The principal difference in the two breeds is
in their coats, for in size and general conforma-
tion they are quite similar, and if you clip a
setter you have a pretty fair pointer. There
are, of course, differences between the various

18 Modern Breaking

breeds of setters, as well as between setters and
pointers. The points of superiority generally
claimed for the pointers are their ability to
stand heat, go without water, and escape being
loaded down and stuck up with burs that soon
mat a setter’s feather and long coat. Pointers
as a class have the pointing instinct more
highly developed, are more easily broken, remem-
ber their training better, and are not so hard to
control: Setters, on account of their more
abundant coat, have an advantage in wet, cold
weather or in facing brambles and briars in a
rough country. They have usually more dash,
vim and energy, do not thicken up so quickly
with age, and improve in their work from
year to year.

There are, of course, individual exceptions,
and some pointers will face brambles and thick-
ets, take to water and work in cold, stormy
weather as courageously as any setter; and
there are setters which are seemingly as little
affected by heat and can go as long without
water as the best pointer. A setter’s coat or
feather can be clipped so that burs will not
stick to it, and in warm countries, where burs
are most in evidence, the Setters coat. ima
generation or two, is scarcely heavier than the
most satin-skinned pointer. In disposition,
pointers are not quite so affectionate and com-
panionable as setters, and show some of the

Modern Breaking 19

traits of their hound ancestry. Setters are
descended from the spaniels, and generally
display all of their lovable qualities.

So far as the beauty of the two breeds is con-
cerned, that is solely a matter of taste, and
about difference in tastes there can be no dis-
pute. There is something distinctive and breedy
about a clean-cut, statuesque pointer, and there
is no animal more attractive than an animated,
silky-coated, soft-eyed setter.

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SELECTING A Puppy.—Pedigrees and their value; rearing;
kenneling; feeding; diseases of puppyhood; prevention
of gunshyness.

OR the first few weeks of a setter or pointer

puppy’s life it is an odd and most inter-
esting little animal. Its nose is short and
blocky, its head a dome, its face a mass of
wrinkles, out of which its watery blue eyes
tink lazily ; its body is fat, round and too heavy
for its stubby legs and clumsy feet, and it
stumbles and noses about with a curiosity and
helplessness that are most appealing.

The apparently profound discourses and the
detailed instructions for selecting, unfailingly,
the best puppy in a litter are absurd, and based
solely on a lack of wisdom. Selecting a puppy
from a litter when eight or ten weeks old is a
matter of guesswork. The apparently brightest
puppy may develp into a dullard; the weakest
physically may become the largest. At this
time pedigree is the only guide to probabilities,
and with the number of good dogs and reputable
breeders now in the country, it is not advisable
to spend either time or money on a setter or

Modern Breaking 21

pointer which is not of established ancestry.
It is not necessary that the puppies’ parents or
grandparents be field trial winners, but they
should be of stock known to be creditable
fielders and practical shooting dogs.

There is such a thing as the careful blending
of certain blood lines that have produced with
the greatest regularity high-class dogs. The
correctness and desirability of the blood lines
can be determined only by a breeder of ex-
perience, with a good knowledge of pedigrees.
The amateur sportsman, who is about to pur-
chase a high-class puppy, will do well to sub-
mit its breeding to some authority before clos-
ing the transaction. Past experience with litters
of the same breeding, and a knowledge that
certain blood lines produce dogs uniformly good
in some respects, but inclined to weaknesses in
others, as well as the knowledge of certain
indescribable peculiarities which are common to
the breed, may possibly prove of some assist-
ance to a purchaser; but, on the whole, it is all
guesswork, and the man who has the last pick
of a litter has about as good a chance that his
dog will turn out a winner as the man who had
the first selection.

REARING.

While there is much guesswork about select-
ing a puppy, its development and growth will
give full scope to the owner’s intelligence and

22 Modern Breaking

care. A weak, sickly puppy, with good care
and intelligent development and breaking, will
make a better field dog than a fine, healthy
puppy which is mistreated. Some men are so
lacking in sympathy and intelligence as to be
absolutely unfitted to rear any kind of a dog,
and all the advice and instruction given them is
wasted. Such men may want to do right, and
may feel that they are doing right, but they
neglect the small details that are the price of
success, and puppies which will develop hand-
somely in the hands of some men will turn out
ragged duffers in the hands of others.

There are disappointments, much misery and
many real heartaches strewn along the breed-
ing path. They can be lessened and often
avoided if the owner will bear in mind that the
dog is an animal of a high degree of intelli-
gence, and, like a woman or child, requires
companionship, amusement and encouragement
just as much as it does good food and shelter,
and without them will be dwarfed physically
and mentally. There are also diseases incidental
to puppyhood that the owner will do well to
anticipate. By observing these platitudes, the
owner will be able to cope with circumstances
and environments that are never twice alike.

After the puppy is weaned and taken from
its mother, it is necessary to provide certain

Modern Breaking 23

quarters that it can consider its own. If it is
decided to keep it in the house or office, con-
struct a light frame, over which should be
tacked a piece of canvas or burlap, drawn tight
like a drumhead. This can easily be kept clean
by removing and washing, and affords a com-
fortable bed that is not likely to hold vermin.
lf the puppy is given a rug to sleep on, it should
be washed and dried weekly, at least.

It may as well be said here that dogs kept
out of doors suffer less from exposure than
those which lie around the house. during the
day and are locked up in a cold barn or kennel
at night. The exposing to extremes of tempera-
ture is what is to be avoided, and dogs kept
out of doors, particularly the long-haired
breeds, are always more rugged than those
kept in a warm house. This necessitates the
building of a kennel, and by all means there
should be a yard in which the dog may run.
The expense of construction is very small in
these days of cheap wire netting, and this dis-
penses with the collar and chain, that when
applied to a high-spirited, well-bred, nervous
puppy form an inhuman contrivance, calculated
to sour a dog’s disposition, irritate him con-
stantly, and are also responsible for many bad
shoulders. A puppy needs a companion, and
it iS just as easy to raise two puppies as one.
Both will do much better, as they will amuse

24 Modern Breaking

themselves and be healthier and happier than
‘£ confined alone, hour after hour, to fret and
worry with no break in the monotony except an
occasional visit of the owner or attendant.

In building a kennel for one or two dogs, the
lumber should be doubled, with an inner lining
of tar board. The entrance should be at the
side, with a board placed on the inside at right
angles to the entrance, so as to act as a wind-
break. Or, better still, there should be a door
that will swing both ways. A piece of heavy
canvas may be hung over the door, that the
dog soon will learn to push aside when desiring
toenter. The kennel can be made with a
removable top, so that the bedding can be
removed easily and the inside washed, disin-
fected and whitewashed.

A kerosene barrel makes a very good tempo-
rary kennel. A few shavings burned inside of
it-and then extinguished by turning the barrel
upside down will thoroughly cleanse iio MEAS
warm, as well as water and wind proof. In
cold weather a canvas flap should be hung over
the opening. If the kennel is placed under a
shed open to the south, so much the better, as
it will then be warmer in Winter and cooler in
Summer and the shed affords protection from
either rain or sun, without forcing the dog to
take refuge in its kennel. In cold weather the
kennel should be placed inside of a room.

A DPRONATATATSC( WARTTY vw

Modern Breaking ay

The size of the dog’s yard should be at least
eight or ten feet square, but can be made as
large as desired, and if situated so as to take
in a tree or bush so much the better. It is a
good idea to have a number of fences or small
hurdles placed across the yard, low at first and
gradually elevated as the dog grows. In play-
ing and racing about the yard he is obliged to
jump these hurdles, which will do much to
develop the muscles of his back and loins. Black
dirt is the best ground for a kennel yard, as
dogs yarded on sand are sure to be affected
with fleas or lice. These pests the owner must
fight incessantly with frequen groomings and
the free use of disinfectants and whitewash.
Wood ashes mixed with clay well beaten down
make a good yard, or, better still, wood ashes,
lime and clay all worked together. The kennel
and yard should be cleaned at least once a day
and whitewashed once a week. In warm
weather, bedding is not absolutely necessary, as
the dog. finds the floor cooler, or if allowed a
preference will occupy a frame with canvas
covering, as previously described. Pine shav-
ings sprinkled with turpentine are not attractive
to fleas, but for very cold weather, oat straw is
the best and warmest bedding. This should be
changed at least once a week.

FEEDING. |
The subject of feeding is, of course. a matter

28 Modern Breaking

of great importance. After weaning, the puppy
enters the world under independent conditions
and has, as is to “be expected,- more or ess
trouble in adapting itself to them. The mother’s
milk is its natural food and must now be
replaced by cow’s milk, and for a time this
must be the principal article of diet. There is
a popular but erroneous opinion that fresh milk
produces worms, and that sour milk destroys
them: + The fact “1s that nuilk” does, mot catise
worms, but on account of its non-irritating ac-
tion in the intestines, induces the accumulation
of a large amount of mucus, that is a most
desirable place for the hatching of the eggs of
worms and enables them to multiply under
most favorable conditions. Sour milk has a
laxative action on the bowels and tends to expel
this mucus and the worms with it.

For the first two or three months of a puppy’s
life milk cannot be dispensed with, and any bad
results from its use will be neutralized largely
by alternating sour milk with fresh milk, or
giving sour milk once or twice a week. The
rule to follow in feeding a puppy is “little and
often.” For the first few days after weaning
he will lap only fresh milk. This should be
thickened with stale bread or crackers, or, better
still, use Spratt’s puppy biscuits, as puppies
thrive on them and the convenience they afford
amply will repay any sportsman for the slight

Modern Breaking 29

additional expense incidental to their daily use.
Gradually the proportion of solid food should
be increased and the amount of liquids de-
creased. Beef or mutton soups with vegetables,
such as carrots, tomatoes, onions and potatoes,
can be substituted gradually for the milk. The
puppy will thrive rapidly on such food.

The dog is a carnivorous animal and requires
more or less of a meat diet. It is well to begin
feeding a puppy meat when he is three months
old, in the form of well-boiled mutton or beef
that is free from fat. Two or three times a
week, a little raw, lean beef, chopped fine,
should be fed. ‘It acts as a tonic to his digestive
organs, and the good effects will be shown in
the improved appearance of the dog’s coat. He
must not be given sufficient to satisfy his appe-
tite or he will refuse to eat anything else, and
it is highly important at this time that he eat
a good proportion of the grains, as they contain
certain elements necessary to the development
of bone and muscle.

Feed a two-month-old puppy eight times a
day. When three or four months old feed six
times a day; when five or six months old, five
times a day; when eight months old, four times
a day; when ten months or a year old, three
or four times, and when fully grown a light
meal in the morning and a full meal at night.
Attend to the feeding yourself and let the puppy

30 Modern Breaking

learn to expect you. This will promote confi-
dence and good feeling.

At this time certain precautions should be
taken that will do much to prevent disappoint-
ments in the future. The high-bred dog of
to-day has such a sensitive nervous organization
that gunshyness is unfortunately common, and
in the mature dog very difficult.to cure. It can
be avoided by accustoming the puppy to loud
noises at the time of feeding. This should be
done gradually. Procure a couple of old pans
and before feeding and while still at a distance
from the kennel beat them together loudly.
When this does not alarm the puppy when done
at a distance, approach day by day a little
nearer, until finally he connects the noise with
his meals. Then begin at a distance with small
percussion caps, gradually approaching from
day to day with them, and then substitute for
caps the smal! .22-caliber cartridges, and finally
use small charges of powder or a large revolver,
until he is not alarmed at the discharge of the
gun. Of course, if it is seen that the dog is not
afraid of the gun, it will not be necessary to go
through all these preliminary stages, but it is
always well to consider the probability of gun-
shyness and take means to prevent it. |

DISEASES OF PUPPYHOOD.

The most critical period of a puppy’s life is

from the second to the sixth month, and it is at

Modern Breaking 31

this period that his future health and physical
development are largely determined. The com-
mon round worm is the greatest source of mor-
tality, and practically all puppies are infested
with these pests. No matter how carefully a
puppy is housed, fed and cared for, or what his
natural strength may be, if these parasites are
not expelled by proper vermifuges, the puppy
will grow up weak, thin and unthrifty, never
attain proper development and be liable to rick-
ets, chorea, indigestion and other diseases. If the
worms do not eventually terminate his existence
in a fit or spasm, the vitality of the puppy will
become so exhausted that he will fall an easy
prey to distemper, colds, influenza or pneumo-
nia. The importance of treating all puppies for
worms at the age of two, four or six months,
and once or twice a year afterward, cannot be
urged too strongly upon every dog owner.
The best remedy for worms is Dent’s Vermi-
fuge. It can be had in either liquid cr capsule
form. The latter are soft, elastic gelatin affairs
that can be given a puppy without fuss or
muss, and the proper sized dose is accurately
determined. This remedy will not only expel
worms safely and surely, but has in addition an
excellent tonic effect upon the puppies and will
do much to build up those young or old dogs
which are weak and unthrifty. It is superior
to all other vermifuges, and more economical

32 Modern Breaking

and safer to use than anything the owner can
have prepared. Your druggist will get this
remedy for you if you insist upon his doing so.

By keeping the puppy free from worms, the
owner wil! go far toward warding off danger
from distemper. This disease is peculiar to
puppyhood, just as measles, whooping cough
and mumps are peculiar to.childhood. It gen-
erally appears during or right after teething,
and is the particular terror of all kennelmen.
Although dog owners and sportsmen are, as a
rule, a most intelligent class of men, there has
been displayed over this disease a most unpar-
donable amount of ignorance. Nothing is
gained by attempting to avoid this disease.
Dogs will get it in spite of all precautions, and
the only proper course to pursue in the light
of modern science is to approach it intelligently.
Some of the theories advanced as to the cause
of this disease, as well as the rules laid down
for treatment,: are absolutely absurd. ~Prac-
tically, the entire materia medica have at some
time or other been recommended as positive
cures, as well as such barbaric practices as
worming the tail or tongue, the insertion of
setons and other inhuman practices. Men who
go about advocating such operations, as well as
dosing with drugs whose action they do not
understand, for diseases whose causes they
know nothing about, should be treated by their

eee an nn ee ~—_

Modern Breaking 33

own barbaric methods or safely confined where
they cannot exploit their ignorance.

Distemper is due to a specific germ, a micro-
organism, that gains entrance to the animal's
system and sets up a ferment in the blood, with
the symptoms of which all dog men are famil-
iar. A dog cannot have the disease without
the germ, and the germ cannot develop spon-
taneously. It comes from an affected dog, and
unfortunately this germ is so tenacious of life
and will exist so long under adverse conditions,
that it is practically impossible to eradicate it.
Science has discovered the germ and science
has discovered how to destroy the germ and
save the dog. Treating the cause of the dis-
ease, and not the symptoms, is the only rational
method of combating distemper. Dent’s Dis-
temperine is the only cure for distemper that
can be absolutely relied upon. After its discov-
ery it was made the subject of a great public
test, through the columns of the sportmen’s
papers, and conclusively proven as a positive
cure for distemper in its ordinary forms as
vaccination is for smallpox or antitoxin for
diphtheria.

It is easily administered and if the directions
are carefully followed the danger of losing a
valuable puppy with distemper or of having
him afflicted with chorea is minimized.

There are imitations of this remedy on the

34 Modern Breaking

market that, like all imitations, should be
avoided; and as it may mean the life of your
valuable puppy you cannot insist too strongly
upon your druggist or dealer supplying you
with the genuine Dent's Distemperine.

After piloting the puppy safely over the
shoals of puppyhood, the owner can proceed
more rapidly with his education, that up to
this time should have been given with the idea
of developing his physical and mental possibil-
ities. Never must the one fact be lost sight of
—that the dog is a companionable creature of
pronounced social instincts, which requires
amusement, companionship and encouragement.

EEE

ee

Se 2 ay an hal aoe EAN

NAMING DoGs.—Short names the best; compound names a
nuisance; originality desirable.

HE practice of incumbering a setter or pointer

with a name that is a combination ‘of the
flames of all the great dogs in. his pedigree
cannot be too strongly condemned. There is
nothing to be said in favor of such a practice that
is not heavily overbalanced by objections. It
adds nothing to the value of the animal, does
not increase his attractiveness, and if perchance
the puppy turns out a winner, it would be far
better for him to have a short. concise name
that would individualize him, rather than put
him in the general family array with dozens of
other dogs of mediocre or no ability whose
names are all so much alike that they are gen-
erally confounded and confused. A dog can
be a very good dog, a really high-ciass dog,
one which will go down into history as such,
and still have a very plain name that is not
borrowed from his ancestors with the erro-
neous idea of securing some of their luster. In
fact, some, if not most, of the names desired

36 Modern Breaking

in every pedigree are short and _ concise.
Would the following names appeal any more
forcibly to breeders if each had a syllable or
two more and a ‘prefix or suffix] ~Dake
Rheebe, Dan, Nellie, Leicester, Dart, Rake,
Fanny, Lit, Clip; Petrel,” Drind, | Ponto, = vier
Bang, Bow, Drake, Sefton, Mike? Pram;
Croxteth, Jingo, Hops et al.

A field trial winner or stud dog which has a
good reputation, with a name of three or four
words containing twenty or more letters, is at
a positive disadvantage. His name means noth-
ing, stands for nothing and is hard to remem-
ber--and. frequently: contoundeds “Elis record
and individuality are lost in the family connec-
tions. Give your dog a name of one word with
as few syllables as possible. If necessary to
use a prefix, use a short one or your own name
to distinguish your dog from some other dog
already registered.

Gladstone and Count Noble won field trials
because they were good dogs, but their names
alone never carried one of their descendants
into the second series, and they have had sons
and daughters which were probably as great
as they with the single exception that they were
descendants and not ancestors. No particular
fertility of mind is necessary to produce an
original name for a dog. Gladstone is not the
only statesman a dog could be named after,

;

Modern Breaking 37

and it is time some of the others were so hon-
ored, particularly those who have won their
laurels in our own legislative bodies. For 5,000
years history has been recording the names of
statesmen, scholars, philosophers and _ soldiers.
It would be a good idea to have some dogs of
to-day named after them.

CH APT ae weve

NoMENCLATURE.—Breaking and field trial terms; cbsolete
words; pointing; flushing; backing; drawing; roading :
pottering; blinking; stanch; ranging; quartering;
snappy, merry; style; bird sense cramped ; loosening
up; class; mutt.

LL sports and occupations have their own

peculiar nomenclature. Field trials and
other sports, as well as dog breaking, are
no exceptions, and the commands and expres-
sions used by breakers have each their partic-
ular significance that would not be understood
or accepted if used under different conditions
or in other channels. Among the terms used as
commands by breakers and handlers the word
“charge” is particularly senseless. It has been
continued in use among amateurs by the var-
ious writers on dog breaking, who, incapable
of new ideas and improvements, have produced
from time to time books on this subject that
they have industriously copied from the works
of older writers. There was a time when the
term was eminently fitting, but conditions have
changed, and there is no valid reason at the
present day for ordering a dog to “charge” or
“down charge,” when you want him to do just

:
:

Modern Breaking 39

the opposite and drop. The military style of
the word seems, however, to exert a peculiar
fascination over some men and they give it
with great flourish on slight provocation. In the
days of the muzzle-loading gun, the charging
of the guns was a matter that required con-
siderable time, and the dogs were expected to
lie down while it was being done. The com-
mand “down charge’ was given directly the
birds were flushed and the guns discharged.

The down was for the dog, the word charge
was for the handlers shooting companion and
signified to him that the guns were now to be
loaded. With the advent of the breech-loader,
the remark became superfluous, but in adapting
terms to new conditions, the mistake was made
of dropping the wrong word, and there is no
good reason for longer retaining the term
“charge” in dog-handling nomenclature. There-
fore, when you want your dog to drop, say
drop as quietly as possible.

The terms on, go on, hie on or hie away,
sometimes corrupted into “howa,’ are words
that explain themselves and cannot be 1m-
proved. The word “to-ho” is used as an order
for the dog to stop. It is not so harsh sound-
ing and is easier to pronounce than whoa or
stop) he werds “fetch” or. .““g@o fetch’. are
self-explaining and cannot be improved upon.

In field work and field trial nomenclature

40 Modern Breaking

we have the following terms in use for de-
scribing the work of dogs: Pointing, flushing,
backing, drawing, roading, pottering, blinking,
stanch, steady, ranging, quartering, snappy,
merry, stylish, high-headed, bird sense, cramped,
loosened up, class, mutts, etc.

Pointing: A dog is pointing when he indi-
cates the presence of game by a complete stop.
If no game is found it is considered a false
point by the shooter, but in field trials the
pointing of fur, land turtles or larks is not
considered a false point.

Flushing: A dog is said to have flushed
when he approaches the birds so closely or in
such a manner as to cause them to take wing.

Backing: A dog is backing when he comes
upon another dog pointing and shows his con-
fidence in the pointing dog by also pointing,
without having scented game.

Drawing and roading refer to a dog’s manner
and method of locating a bird after he has the
scent. If he has the body scent of the bird
or birds and approaches this scent in straight
lines, that is, walks boldly up toward the bird
with his head up, he is said to be drawing on
birds. Jf, on the contrary, he pays no attention
to the body scent, but with his nose to the
ground follows the trail left by the birds as
they ran through the grass, he is following
what is known as the foot scent, and is said to

THE CELEBRATED POINTER RIPSTONE, BY RIP RAP, PEARL’S DOT, F. D. S. B., 218
Owned by W. P. Austin, Franklin, Pa.

Modern Breaking 43

be “roading.” In many cases it is necessary for
a dog to road a bird up, but the dog that
draws on his birds and relies upon the body
scent: is of mitch higher: class.

Pettenno refers to’ a ‘dog's “actions while
working on birds or the scent of birds. A dog
which lacks decision in his work and spends
a (ores deal sof time im foot scent.or which
noses about where birds have been and does
not seem able to distinguish between old and
new scent, and fails to locate the birds accur-
ately, is said to be a potterer.

Blinking: A dog which is able to find birds
and point them for a time and ‘then | without
flushing the birds leaves his point and goes
hunting for another bevy is called a_blinker.
This fault is due sometimes to overtraining,
extreme nervousness or a sour, sulky disposi-
tion and is a most difficult one to overcome.

The word stanch refers to a dog’s actions
while pointing. The word steady refers to his
actions aiter the birds are. flushed. These two
words are frequently confused. A dog can
be properly referred to as stanch when he es-
tablishes a point on game and holds it without
orders or admonititions from his handler, and
shows mo desire to draw closer to the: birds.
A dog is steady to wing when he will allow
the birds to flush without moving from the
pointing position. He is steady to shot, if the

44 Modern Breaking

same position is maintained while the guns are
discharged or the game that has been shot is
on the ground and he shows no inclination to
move until ordered on by his handler.

Ranging: By this term reference is made to
the amount of country a dog covers and the
distance he goes from his handler. A dog may
be a close ranger or a wide ranger, but this is
irrespective of his speed, as a dog may be a
slow dog and a wide ranger or a fast dog and
a close ranger.

Quartering: This refers altogether to the
way a dog covers a piece of territory and how
he cuts it up in his quest for birds. A dog is
sometimes referred to as having a_ killing
range when he ranges wide and quarters his
ground in a manner that is best adapted to the
country he is hunting over.

shappy, “;and smerry: hese, terns. ¢reter
largely to a dog’s disposition as expressed by
his tail action and the energy, vim and anima-
tion thrown into his work. Some dogs are
full of action and vivacity and show the great-
est pleasure and interest in their work. They
are all energy and are quick in picking up
points. These dogs are referred to as snappy
or merry, distinguishing them from dogs which
are slow, lumbering and plethoric and which
go about their work more deliberately, as if it
were pure work, and. only a sense of duty or

Modern Breaking 45

compulsion was keeping them at it and not
real pleasure, interest and love of hunting.

Style: This word refers altogether to a dog’s
general appearance when hunting and on point.
Some dogs move very gracefully with their
heads up and when pointing or backing throw
themselves into the most striking and_ pictur-
esque attitudes.

Bird sense: A dog’s knowledge of the hab-
its of birds and the places they are most likely
to occupy at different times of the day and in
different weathers, as indicated by his searching
out these spots, is what constitutes “bird sense.”
Some dogs possess this attribute to a very high
degree while in others it is completely lacking.

Wraniped : A field trial doe is said’ to” be
cramped in his work when he has been worked
so much and shot over so heavily that he does
not go at his best clip, such as ke could sus-
tain for a thirty-minute round with plenty of
style and action, but goes at more of an all-day
gait, and is over-solicitous for the success of
the gun and the presence of the handler.

Loosening up: This consists of giving a dog
road work—taking him off game and running
himem~> short heats; so as to get him in the
habit of running brilliantly for thirty or forty
minutes and increasing his desire for work.

Class: A dog which possesses and displays
a preponderance of all the desirable qualities

46 Modern Breaking

enumerated heretofore is said to have class
or: to be a class dog. ‘This means that he is
a wide, rapid ranger, high-headed, with plenty
of animation and tail action, working his
ground with good judgment, always keeping
out at work, never coming in to his handler
until ordered to do so, searching out ail the
likely places, hunting for and locating birds
by body scent, never pottering over old scent,
but going straight up to his birds and pointing
stylishly.

Mutt: A dog which possesses none of the
valuable attributes of a class dog, or one which
is lacking in aggressive, independent hunting
instincts, even if he is successful in finding
bitds:-is. ‘referred 10 as a-amutt,2 Phiseword a6
probably a corruption of mutton or mutton-
head, and is the most contemptuous term in
field trial nomenclature.

ere A bet ORT LVL.

TRAINING IMPLEMENTS.—Whip; whistle; check cord; lead;
spike collar,

VERY breaker should provide himself with

a whip, whistle, one long check cord, a
leads anda’. choke cor: ‘spike collar). < This
latter instrument is a dangerous affair in some
men’s hands, and if the amateur’s temper is un-
certain it is not advisable for him to trust him-
self with a spike collar. A good whip 1s, how-
Evers a accessiby,-even if it 1s carried, for little
Mores tian a badee .of authority. It cam be
truly stated that there is not a good, practical,
serviceable whip suitable for the breaker’s use
in the market.

There are any number of dog whips, but un-
fortunately the men who designed them did not
have an intelligent conception of the proper
spiete ‘ol the. breakers: art: They have fol-
lowed old English patterns and produced great
clumsy affairs, with the butts loaded with lead,
like a slung-shot, heavy enough to stun a bul-
lock, or with handles mounted with whistles
that will not blow, and the lashes are gener-
ally brutal affairs, elaborately braided and

48 Modern Breaking

knotted, that are calculated to leave the flesh
bruised or swollen.
THE WHIP.

The accompanying illustration is of a whip -

designed by the writer that will be found to
answer all the purposes of the modern breaker.
It is light, easily rolled up and carried in the
pocket, and will: last” for) years.2™ Whe sar
tapered strap that forms the lash punishes a
dog as severely as is necessary without leaving
any wumnnecessary bruises or continuous pain.
There is just the difference between punishing
a dog with this kind of a whip and the ordi-

THE WHIP

nary dog whip that there is between the spank-
ing a mother will administer with a slipper
and the injury a vicious parent might inflict
with a rawhide. —

The whip can be made easily by any worker
on leather. Take.a strip of rawhide thirty-
two inches long and two and_ one-quarter
inches wide for six inches, and then taper it
down to three-sixteenths of an inch. The six
inches is to form the handle and should have
the edges brought together and sewed; a snap
or ring can be attached to the handle if con-

ae

CHAMPION LADY’S COUNT GLADSTONE

Modern Breaking 51

sidered desirable. The edges of the lash
should be carefully smoothed and rounded. If
a snap is sewed into the end of the handle
of the whip, a ring can then be sewed into
the hunting coat, either upon the inside or the
outside, so that the whip when not in use can
Pevsiapped to-it.,-If a rme is used the “snap
will, of course, be attached to the coat. The
breaker who once uses a whip of this kind
will never go back to one of the old-fashioned
English affairs. The amateur must bear in
mind that it is not always the amount of pun-
ishment a dog receives that does him the most
good. Much depends upon the way it is ad-
ministered. The breeder who gets excited and
angry and scolds the dog while he uses the
whip frightens the dog so that he has no chance
to know why he is being punished. All the
desired effect is thus lost and the dog becomes
cowed and whipshy.

Whenever it becomes necessary to use the
whip, the strokes should be laid on slowly, and
the last should be the lightest. The breaker
should be calm and speak in a mild tone of
voice, moderating his tone with each stroke un-
til at last, when the whip is barely laid on the
giving the dog plenty of time for reflection.
Then he should slowly roll up his whip, put it
in his pocket and speak pleasantly to the dog.
In the next place, the dog should be kept at

52 Modern Breaking

dog’s back, his voice will be little above a
whisper. After the punishment the dog should
be kept down and the breaker should remain at
his head, perfectly quiet, for a few moments,
he can then be sent away and will probably go
ecod naturedly to his work. .A moderate whip-
ping administered in this way soon will make
the dog understand why he has been punished
and prevent him from repeating the fault,
whereas a severe whipping frightens, discon-
certs and cows the dog and prevents his further
understanding of the philosophy of punishment.

It is a good plan to make a dog thoroughly.
acquainted with the whip by allowing him to
see it often. He should be led frequently by the
whip for this reason. Again, the whip should
be laid often on his back good-naturedly, all for
the purpose of having the animal understand
that the whip of itself is harmless. With a
whipshy dog the sight of a whip fills him with
terror as a gun frightens a gunshy dog. So
that at all times, before he has ever been struck
with a whip and after he has felt its force, the
dog should become familiar with it and be made
to know that there is no occasion for being
frightened at a-mere sight of it) After -being
taught to retrieve he should be frequently prac-
ticed at fetching the whip. "a

While the use of the whip is perfectly proper ~
on occasions, it may be set down as a safe

—
’

\-

Modern Breaking 53

proposition that more harm than good is done
with the whip. Old hands at the business know
from experience when and how to use the whip,
but the amateur is likely to be too free with it.
The longer a man breaks dogs, the less he is
inclined to use the whip. When he does use it
the occasion will be when he can make such a
direct application of the punishment that it will
be associated with the offense for which the dog
was corrected. It should be stated, too, that old
handlers wait until they catch a dog in the act,
and then ply the lash effectively, making the
dog know just why he was punished. Unless
the punishment can be inflicted immediately on
the commission of an offense, it is better to let
the dog off with a slight scolding.
THE WHISTLE.

There are innumerable whistles on the mar-
ket, and although the sounds they produce are
satisfactory in tone and volume, they fail never-
theless to answer in a highly satisfactory way
the breaker’s purposes. A whistle of buckhorn,
wood or rubber is to be preferred to one of
metal, but the trouble with most whistles is that
the mouthpiece is too short and necessitates the
breaker holding the whistle to his mouth. What
he really needs is a whistle with a good long
mouthpiece that his lips will retain without any
assistafice from the hand.

The dog should be accustomed to one whistle

54 Modern Breaking

and be taught to disregard all other whistles.
One particular kind of blast should be used on
all occasions except when the dog refuses to
recognize the first blast. Then the whistle
should be louder and more shrill, and it will be
well when it becomes necessary to repeat an
order with the whistle to draw the whip and
crack it, repeating the blasts of the whistle
several times.

Generally speaking, the whistle is used to
make the dog turn when quartering, to come 1n
or merely to attract the dog’s attention. When
it is used to make the dog turn when ranging
the single blast serves the purpose. If it is
desired to have him come in, the whistle should
be blown again when he gets nearer the breaker.
When it is blown merely to attract his attention,
the order which follows it shows the dog what
he is expected to do, so that while the same
order from the whistle is given for at least
three distinct purposes there is really no conflict.

CHECK CORD.

The long check cord should be twenty or
twenty-five feet long, of the best cotton cord
obtainable and of a diameter about that of a
lead pencil. A coat ef oil will improve it. One
end should be carefully bound and wrapped with
a waxed thread, and to the other end should be
smoothly attached a small snap, so that the cord
can be quickly attached to the dog’s collar. This

Modern Breaking 55

cord can be used for a variety of purposes and
results can be accomplished with it and an im-
pression made upon the dog’s mind that will be
more lasting and satisfactory than when ac-
complished with the whip. The check cord is
used sometimes with a plain collar or in con-
nection with a choke or spike collar.

some breakers tse the check cord for the
purpose of punishing the dog, preferring it to
ine. wasp, Lo some extent it 1s useful for this
purpose, but carried too far its usefulness is
destroyed. When a dog is on a point and the
gun is discharged at the rising bird it is well to
check the dog sharply with the line to make him
drop to shot and wing, but the whip should be
drawn quickly and the dog given a cut or two
to compel prompt obedience. This should be
done rather than to continue the checking. The
cord is useful, too, when the dog breaks in or
attempts to flush. As he starts he should be
jerked back sharply and given a few lashes,
compelling him to drop at the place he should
have gone down to shot or wing.

The long check cord is useful in forcing a
dog to “come in.” He should be taken to an
inclosure, and when at the end of the cord
should be ordered sharply to come in. Accom-

panying the order, a severe check should be

given the dog, and this should be continued

until he comes to the breaker. When he comes

56 Modern Breaking

in he should be stroked gently and spoken to
kindly.

Coming to the crack of the whip is taught in
the same way, the whip being cracked with one
hand while the dog is checked with the other.
When he comes in the whip should be laid
gently on his back while the breaker speaks
kindly to him. These lessons should be con-
tinued until he can be called in to the crack of

the whip from a distance.
LEAD.
The short check cord, or lead, is another
appliance that manufacturers have failed to

THE LEAD

provide satisfactorily for breakers. There are
many leads on the market; some are too light
and of flimsy construction, others are too heavy
and clumsy or unnecessarily mounted with
elaborate snaps and swivels. The leather
worker .who makes your’ whip, as_ before
described, can make you a lead that will be
found very useful in leading a dog to and from

Modern Breaking 57

the field or in keeping him in hand during his
other lessons.

The lead should be made out of a strip of
rawhide six feet long and three-quarters of an
inch wide. One end should be doubled back
and sewed so as to form a six or seven inch
loop for the handhold. At the other end should
be sewed a metal oval, through which the end
of the strap can be passed, to form a sliding
loop collar that can be easily passed on or off
over a dog’s head. Where the strap comes in
contact with the dog’s neck it should be left full
width, but between that part and the hand grasp
the lead can be lightened by trimming it down
to three-eighths or one-half inch, and it will
still be strong enough.

THE SEIKE COLLAR:

There has been considerable improvement in
spike collars. One that was in use a number of
years ago was made of wooden balls, studded
with sharpened wire nails. A hole, three-eighths
of an inch in diameter, was bored through the
wooden balls, and four of them were strung on
a cord, separated by knots and adjusted to the
dog’s neck, as a sliding noose. This inhuman
affair, has passed out of use. The only prac-
med eospice collar that. has: ever been’ on
mercer sis what is known as the B. Waters’
spike collar. It was originally described in

58 Modern Bar ea kine

Mr. Waters’ book, “Modern Training and
Handling,’ and consists of a strap about
one and one quarter inches wide, one end of
which passes through an oval, forming a sliding
noose that is mounted with six or eight spikes.

These collars can be obtained by addressing
Mr. Bernard Waters, 346 Broadway, New York.

Chee CE RV II,

KNow THYSELF.—Breaking the breaker; pronounced in-
stinects not intelligence; mistakes of amateurs; study-
ing the young dog.

EFORE attempting to tell the reader how
he should proceed to break his setter or

pointer, it seems best that the breaker him-
self be taken in hand. He cannot be broken in.

one short lesson, but some things can be pointed
out that will be useful to him in the future. He
may not take this lesson to heart in the very
beginning, as he should, but after he has had
moderate success with his first dog, he may
turn back to this chapter, and in the light of his
experience profit by what is here set down.

The breaker will not journey far on the road
of breaking before his voung dog will do some
foolish thing calculated to move every energy
in a calm man, and the man will be moved and
the dog will be injured. It is well to know this
logic of events. To be sure, the breaker will
say to himself in a general way that he will be
patient, calm and will not be annoyed. That is
because he does not know himself; because he
has never been put to the test. The young dog
will do the most unexpected thing in the most

60°- Modern Breaking

unusual way at the most inopportune time, and
the breaker will be caught off his guard, and
when he feels the fire of his wrath burning in
every fiber of his makeup, he will most likely re-
lieve his feelings with his whip. And then a
lot of mischief will have been done that will
require weeks and perhaps months to repair.
Of course, the breaker will console himself
with the thought that he was not to blame, and
that the dog deserved a good whipping. To
him it will appear that the dog should have
known how to do the simple thing he was
asked to do, and the “breaker “is certamm “ie
knew how, but refused in a malicious spirit
of wilfulness..“Hiere. ‘is: -where® the* “breaker
makes: a. serious ‘mistake. ‘The dog did “not
know anything about the simple matter the
breaker sought to teach him, and he became
“rattled” the moment the breaker showed any
signs of irritation. As soon as the animal lost
its head the punishment made him worse.
While the intelligence of the dog, particularly
the setter and the pointer, is admitted, we are
not to measure the dog’s brain by any senti-
mental consideration. A dog less than one year
old, it should be borne in mind, has seen very
little of the world, and no matter how much
intelligence he may have of what his predispo-
sition to know things may be, he has not had
the opportunity to secure much knowledge.

THB FIELD TRIAL WINNER, COLONEL R

OxwnadA hw Rananm Kannale MOhadron 0).

wee ae

Modern Breaking 63

The breaker must bear this in mind. He must
not expect more from a yearling dog than from
a four-year-old child.

The fact is, and the breaker should give this
great weight, if the matter be intelligently con-
sidered, a man of sound judgment must con-
clude that a yearling dog is a pretty soft crea-
ire im- the matter of brains. He may be a
bundle of nerves and he may have a lot of pro-
nounced instincts, but all this is not intelligence
nor the abiding place of judgment or much
knowledge. Too much stress cannot be put
upon this consideration of the young dog’s
mental capacity, for an overestimate of this
quality is the primary cause of the ruination
of many a young dog of good natural quality.
If the breaker will take this at its true value
it will put him in the way of educating him-
self as to his own conduct toward the dog.
This done, he can decide to view with calmness
those aggravating things his dog may do. He
can know the importance of holding his own
temper and persevering with his dog in spite
of the dog’s apparent disposition to refuse to
do things he should do. The breaker, when he
learns that he, instead of the dog, is at fault,
will learn to vary his methods and lead the dog
into the way of doing things. That is what
constitutes a larger part of the genius of dog

64 Modern Breaking

breaking. It finds its first inspiration in a
knowledge of self.
| STUDYING THE YOUNG DOG.

It is a very simple matter to say that differ-
ent methods must be pursued with different
dogs, but’ ‘that. 1s not “enough... the breaker
should know the things that make the essential
difference’ before he can siiccesstully “lay out
his plan of breaking. It becomes, therefore,’
a matter of first importance to study the young
dogs which the breaker is about to develop.

To begin with, the breaker should know
something of pedigree, for certain well-bred
dogs, where they are of a particular breed or
strain, have what might be termed family char-
acteristics. Some of these are useful for the
purpose of the breaker, while others are not.
When the breaker knows these family traits of
disposition, he will look for them in the young
dog, and so handle him that the good will go
on developing and the bad will be checked. It
is much easier for the breaker to anticipate
these things and be prepared than it is to go on
and, because of the want of a little knowledge,
have a lot of latent quality in his young dog
undeveloped, while whatever of evil that was
born in him takes its place.

Dogs, for example, which are extremely ner-
vous as a result of long-continued inbreeding,

Modern, Breaking 65

must not be treated like colder-blooded dogs.
The former have pronounced instincts, backed
by a sensitive nervous organization, and they
proceed in the most natural way to’do the most
aggravating things. Their instincts are so
highly developed and are so superior to their
intelligence that they move with a kind of
mechanical precision, and their judgment in
the beginning plays little part in their work.
Their likes and dislikes are of very intense
character, and unless the breaker understands
this he will make the serious mistake of sup-
posing the dogs to be headstrong and wilful.
More young dogs are ruined for want of a
knowledge of these facts by the breaker than
for any other reason. Some dogs may, as a
matter of fact, be extremely timid, but the
intense love for work may make them appear to
be high-couraged. A few severe whippings
for the purpose of checking this ardor may cow
them and set them back a long way in their ed-
ucation. Indeed, they may be ruined by the
breaker, who mistakes an intense natural love
for work for high courage.

The really high-couraged dog may be checked
without receiving a serious setback. Indeed,
it often hurries his good work and keeps him
from doing further damage. But the breaker
must be certain of his dog before he selects his
method. He must study his dog, and if he

66 Modern Breaking

will do this without attempting to break him
he will soon be able to distinguish between a
sensitive, timid, highly developed, nervous dog
and one which is simply high-couraged.
While the young dog is about the kennel and
before he is taken afield, the breaker will have
a good chance to study his disposition. If he
is treated kindly he will be likely to show a
great deal of boldness, even if he is naturally
timid. But the breaker must not be misled by
this, nor must he suppose he is timid because
he is not bold. Some high-couraged dogs are
the very opposite of nervous and are not easily.
moved to do those things which a bold dog
will do. The nervous, high-bred dog is in-
quisitive and loves to be on the move, and will
show a disposition to investigate all manner
of things he does not fear, Once he becomes
frightened, if he is really of a timid nature,
he loses that love of investigation, that boldness
that is so necessary to a young dog. Great
care, therefore, should be taken with the young
dog to allow him to have his own way, so that
the natural bent of his disposition may be de-
termined.); He should be encotraged tewds
whatever pleases him and seldom corrected with
even hard words. He may be led about on
a lead and made familiar with things gener-
ally, no attempt being made to force him up
to any object of which he appears afraid, or

Modern Breaking 67

forenecio Shim for -extreme, holdness.. The
breaker at this time should bear in mind that
he is only studying the dog’s disposition, not
trying to teach him what to do and what not to
do. Care, however, must be taken not to allow
the dog to get into trouble. There are so many
disagreeable things a high-strung, active young
dog is likely to do when out for a walk that it
would be impossible to enumerate them. The
breaker must anticipate them in the beginning
and so shape his actions as to avoid them as
far as possible. Once the mischief has been
done, it would not be well to correct the young
dog for his fault. It would not undo the mis-
chief, whatever it might be; it would do the
young dog no good and might work harm that
would require a long time to offset. What the
breaker really wants is to have the young dog
bold, -dearless’ and dispdsed to follow. the
promptings of his instincts when first taken
afield. The breaker, in the first instance, sim-
ply needs to know his dog.

CHAP? ER. A tee

First Lessons.—lIntroduction to game; developing courage ;
encouraging fondness for field work.

T was a very common practice a quarter of

a century ago to put the young dog through
a> series - of » kennel. lessons. betore (he aamwae
taken to -the field.. This practice 1s” stil=ial-
lowed by some breakers. But the most success-
ful handlers of the day do no yard breaking
at all until the young dog has been introduced
to game. This has become more and more the
practice as our bird dogs reached a higher and
higher state of nervous development. The
modern setter and pointer are too nervous to
stand yard breaking in the beginning. It cows
them and a long time is wasted getting them
over it and making them fit to learn field work.
Sometimes a whole season is lost, and often
the utter ruination of what promised to be a
good dog is simply the result of his having
been yard broken before he was taken to the
field. The first real lesson in breaking there-
fore, should be given in the field, and this les-
son is a very simple one. It consists merely of

THE BENCH SHOW AND FIELD TRIAL WINNING SETTER, SPORT’S GATH }
Owned by C. G. Williamson, Muncie, Ind.

Modern Breaking at

permitting the young dog to do about as he
pleases.

While the dog has had no real kennel break-
ing, it may fairly be supposed that he knows
his name, will lead kindly on a chain or check
cord and is on good terms with his handler.
Taken into the field in this condition, if more
than six months old, he is in splendid con-
dition to begin his education. When first taken
to the field he should be led a part of the way,
and when the lead is taken off he should be
permitted to do pretty much as he pleases. A
locality should be selected that is free from
noise, and, of course, the breaker will take no
companion with him. If he has another dog
he should be left at home.

If there is any wind stirring, the course
should be selected so that the breaker and his
dog will go into the breeze. A dog naturally
will range better when facing the wind than
when crossing it or going down wind. Be-
sides, it tends to keep the dog’s head up, and
if there are birds on the course the young dog
will get a better taste of the scent.

Possibly the young dog will not range when
first cast off. He may trot along at his hand-
ler’s heels or he may go away a few feet, sniff
about and run back to his handler again. But
what of that? Everything is strange to the
young dog, and he does not like to leave his

72 Modern Breaking ’

breaker. In such an event the handler should
walk along slowly without paying any atten-
tion to the dog. Above all things, he should
not try to force the dog to range. The moment
he attempts to do that the dog becomes impressed
with a fear of the things that he is only a little
in doubt about. If left alone until accustomed
to his surroundings, he would find there was
nothing to hurt him, and then he would do a
little running and then a little more, until
finally he would come to love the work. But
if the breaker insists on meddling with him a
serious mistake will be made.

t 1s a good deal of an aggravation to go
tranmping about the fields with a young dog
which will not go away, but that is a part of
deg breaking, and the breaker must take the
philosophical view of it. He should walk along
quietly and slowly without speaking to the dog,
and then go home, trying to feel at least that
his young dog has behaved extremely well. The
following day the same lesson shouid be re-
peated, and if the dog still refuses to range a
new localitv should be selected for the third
outing, and this line of work should be con-
tinued until the dog shows some disposition
to get out and hunt. Patience and good judg-
ment are all that are necessary to get the dog to
range. No amount of coaxing or force can do
it, On the contrary, they only retard the work.

Modern Breaking 73

But most young dogs will start right out to
hunting. If the dog does this, simply let him
eo, If he is extremely bold, it may be well
enough to whistle him in_ occasionally, or
rather, to try to do it, for in all probability he
will not answer a whistle. But he must know
the whistle later, and this will serve as an in-
troduction. However, great care must be taken
ae this period not to affect his boldness. If
he shows the least sign of irritation at an at-
tempt to direct him, the breaker should desist.

The purpose of these first lessons is to make
the young deg bold; to give him some idea of
ranging for game, and finally to let him scent
out and see birds. The dog will love this work
once he has done it. The sight and smell of
birds will increase his ardor, so that no matter
if he should be cowed a little when the work
of breaking begins, his spirits can be revived
by the work in the field. Thus prepared for
his yard breaking, whenever that has been
severe enough to give the young dog a setback
the work in the field that he has learned
to love will always raise his spirits. The two,
then, can be carried on profitably together.
But the fact should be impressed upon the
breaker that he must not be in too big a hurry
to begin the yard breaking. Give the young
dog plenty of field work first. Let him romp
and flush and chase and have a good time.

74 Modern Breaking

Of course this good work must not be car-
ried too far, and it is a mere matter of judg-
ment with the breaker wher it has gone far
enough If permitted to continue unchecked
the young dog will develop a love for flushing
and chasing of which it will be difficult to
break him. When he is just right—bold, fear-
less and in love with field work—his yard
breaking may be commenced.

Ceel. tb RT Xx:

YARD BreAKING.—The old lesson of to-ho; stopping to order:
stopping to uplifted hand.

S stated in a previous chapter, the yard

training of a dog is by the best trainers
deferred until the young dog has had some
experience Om Gaihe, and ‘nothing is. at-
tempted in the way of getting the prospective
pupil under control that might possibly affect
his courage, dash and energy.

Most amateurs, however, are anxious to be-
gin working with their dogs, and, as the ama-
teur breaker has much to learn in the way
of controlling himself as well as the dog, there
is no better way for him to occupy his time
than to teach his dog to “to-ho” at his food
every day at feeding time. It is an old-fash-
ioned lesson that professional trainers seldom
spend any time on. Its utility may be doubt-
ful to the experienced handler, but it is a val-
uable lesson for the amateur, as it gives him an
insight into the technique of breaking and an
opportunity to study his pupil, as well as a con-
trol over his own feelings that will assist him
further on in the art. A dog is taught to

76 Modern Breaking

“to-ho” by patience and kindness, and without
the use of a whip, so there is no danger of cow-
ing the young dog; and it educates the breaker.
These are the reasons for introducing a lesson
that is sometimes considered obsolete.

Before this lesson is given the dog should
be taken for a short walk, just to get him in
a nice humor. .Place the dish of food on the
ground and hold him near it, saying in a
pleasant voice, “To-ho.” This. should- be re-
repeated, and if the dog twists about, as he is
most likely to do, no attention should be paid
to it. The breaker should gently sttaieiten
him out toward the dish and say, ‘“To-ho,” oc-
casionally in a low tone.

The dog must not be kept at this too long,
and the breaker must not look for anything like
an approach to what is desired. If he does, he
will be disappointed and annoyed. All he can
expect is to familiarize the young dog with the
word and the handling. The dog will not get
even a) faint idea -of- what-1s awaited. » Fiites
he has been allowed to eat a few mouthfuls,
he should be led away, and then put through
the lesson again. All this should be done in a
spirit of good nature bordering on playfulness.
The breaker, if he has any notions of force in
his head, should get rid of them, for he will
make more haste by going slowly at this period.
In fact, it will be well to bear this injunction in

Modern Breaking Gy

mind at all times. When this first lesson is
over the breaker should take a short walk with
his young dog, for companionship is of great
importance in breaking. A little walk after a
lesson cements a friendship that may have been
slightly strained by the lesson. The dog likes
it and should be encouraged to look for it after
each lesson. It makes the next lesson easier, as
the dog will enter into it with good feeling
and an absence of fear.

These “to-ho” lessons should be continued at
each meal until the dog will stand a few feet
fenrerie disit antil he is ordered. to’ “go on.”
He should not be kept standing long and the
lesson should not be repeated too often. About
three times at each meal is enough. While the
dog is standing at the dish the breaker should
stroke him gently and encourage him to take a
step or two toward the dish. This will tend
to give him an idea of stopping to order after
moving. If all this is done properly, the young
dog will take an interest in it and eventually
enjoy it. To this end these first lessons should
be given, nothing in the way of force being
used further than to hold the dog in position.

Eventually the dog will be expected to stand
alone at his dish of food, waiting for the order
to go on, but when he is first let alone he will
move up without this order. This is to be ex-
pected, and the breaker must not be irritated,

78 Modern Breaking

but should take the dog back to his proper
place and hold him a moment, continuing this
until the dog will stand alone. When he has
been somewhat perfected in this, he should be
taken back several yards, with a check cord at-
tached to his collar, and allowed to walk to-
ward the dish, but when about half way he
should be stopped. He may turn backward to-
ward the breaker when he feels the cord check
him, but the movement should be anticipated.
and before he can do what he intended he
should be caught by the breaker and held in
place. In time, by patience and perseverance,
the dog will learn, not only to remain station-
ary when he hears the word, “To-ho,”’ but
will learn to stop at the same command.

All this will take time. What the dog should
do, and what he will do, are different things.
He will be sure to do the wrong thing more
often than it would seem he should, but if this
is expected and treated as a matter of course,
more progress will be made than if the breaker
shouid show any signs of irritation.

After the dog has become accustomed to
standing and stopping to order, he may be
taught to “draw” on the dish, moving and
stopping at command.

It is of the first importance that these lessons
be given in a quiet place, away from other dogs.
No person, nor in fact anything, should be

. TO HO

‘

Yh Par be

“-
ee

Modern 68 reaki ns 81

near to attract the dog’s attention. Some
breakers teach their young dogs to drop in con-
nection with this lesson, but the breaker will
find considerable difficulty in keeping the dog
on his feet while being taught to “to-ho.” This
is only heightened if the dog has been taught to
drop: With the two things to think of, the
young dog is likely to get confounded and may
make a bad mess of it all.

Inasmuch as the dog will drop when he is
expected to stand, the breaker should pay little
attention, particularly in the earlier lessons. As
he grows bolder and gets over the first stages
of fright he will be more disposed to stand.

After the young dog has become bold and
takes some interest in these lessons at feeding
time, he may be advanced a little further in the
Matter sor stoppiie to order. A. little force
Moy uew be used: Put a check cord, say ten
feet im leneth, on the dog, and make the other
end fast to a post. Before doing this measure
off the distance from the post to a point which
the doe would reach with the line taut. Put
a short check cord on the dog and hold one end
in the hand. Now lead the dog to the post,
then start for the point already marked at a
quick pace. Just before the dog reaches that
point the breaker should say “To-ho” sharply,
and at the same time step a few feet in front
of the dog, being certain to hold the short

82 Modern Breaking

. check line tight—the dog being fast between
two lines cannot move. He is forced to stand,
and the application of the force is so direct,
and all is done so quietly, that it does not
cow the dog. He may show a little fear at
this treatment at first, but soons learns what is
required and will do the work good-naturedly.

The breaker should understand in the begin-
ning that the young dog will be sure to face
him, and by anticipating this the dog will be
prevented from getting into a bad habit. All
that is necessary for the breaker to do is to
stop in front of the dog. After a time he may
stop in front of him for a while and then get
behind, but at first he should be sure to lay
his hands on and stroke him, and before the dog
can turn he should step back of him again.

After the dog has been led from the post to
the mark a few times the direction should be
changed. Later the locality should be changed
and the length of the fmecaltered.

When the dog is proficient in this he should
be taught to “to-ho” in the field. Of course he
will not stop the first time when ordered to
do so, but after he has been ordered and re-
fuses, he should be caught and made to stand
at the place he should have stood, but this
force should be of a gentle character, and by no
means should a whip be used. This is all new
work to the dog, and any refusal to obey an

Modern Breaking 83

order is for want of knowing how, rather than
because of any wilfulness. After learning to
stop to order when close by the breaker, the
dog will soon learn to stop at any distance.
In this connection it should be said that when-
ever the order to stop is given the breaker
should raise his right hand. This should be
done in the earlier lessons and should be con-
tinued until the dog comes to associate the
raising of the hand with the order to “to-ho,”’
and in time the verbal order may be omitted
and the dog taught to stop at sight of the
raised hamd. This lesson may be given occa-
sionally while the dog is out for a romp, and
right here it may be well to remind the breaker
that the field work is to be kept up while the
yard breaking is carried on. Whatever de-
pressing effect the yard breaking may have will
be removed by a romp in the fields.

When the dog is bold and will stand well to
the verbal order or uplifted hand, he may be
taught to drop. Meanwhile it will do no harm
to allow the youngster to retrieve in a spirit
of playfulness. It tends to keep up his spirits
and chasing a soft ball that can be handled
easily will be fun for the dog. But at this
period no serious attempt should be made to
teach retrieving any further than the dog ap-
pears willing to learn. The serious part of re-
trieving will come later, when the dog should
be taught by the force system.

Ort hol soe pig oe

POINTING INSTINCT.—The machinery of the point instinct
versus intelligence; steadying the young dog; dropping
to wing.

ETTERS and pointers are not ‘tatehioio
point in the sense that they are made to

do other things that are apart of their ed-
ucation, for pointing is instinctive and there-
fore a natural quality. But pointing as a raw,
instinctive product and pointing in a_ thor-
oughly broken setter or pointer are different
things, and the quality of the ripe point de-
pends very largely on the way it has been de-
veloped. It is this development of the point-
ing instinct with which the breaker has to deal.
But let us study briefly the nature of the
pointing instinct as we find it in a young dog
which has never known the sight or scent of
game. The pointing instinct is very complex
and in its entirety depends upon the nervous
and muscular development as well as on the
nose. Indeed, the nose has but little to do
with it, any further than to inspire the point.
The scent of game is pleasant to the dog, just
as some particular kind of food is pleasant.
But the scent of game always has been asso-

:

Modern Breaking 85

ciated with the muscular and nervous action
which constitutes the point proper, and the in-
stant the dog feels the scent in his nose the
pointing machinery, either as a whole or in
part, is set in motion. The dog’s judgment or
intelligence has nothing to do with this. The
nerves and muscles act independently and me-
chanically. Sometimes, and in fact as a ven-
eral rule, the first attempt at a point will be
a failure. The whole pointing machinery never
before having acted in unison, this is to be ex-
pected. The dog may get a thrill at the scent
of game and his whole nervous being become
aroused to a high state of excitement. The
muscles may respond moderately and the dog
may show signs of stiffening into a point. But
all this is new and the dog is in such a high
state of nervous excitement that the mechanism
of the point is disturbed. Sometimes the dog
has a touch of fright mingled with the other
nervous expressions, and the hair along the
back and tail may rise in consequence. Mean-
while the birds are flushed and the animal na-
tures Obie. doe swill. assert itself, and: acting
under this new influence, unhampered by tne
pointing instinct, the dog indulges in a chase.
This is a very. pleasant performance for the
dog, and once it has been tried the matter be-
comes fixed in the dog’s mind as knowledge.
On the next occasion, when birds are found,

86 Modern Breaking

there will be a battle between the pointing in-
stinct and the intelligence, and most likely the
intelligence will win. The pointing instinct
may get a better start than it did on the pre-
vious opportunity, and it may be carried fur-
ther toward completion, but the intelligence will
assert itself and the dog will have a little fun
flushing and chasing the birds.

With still further opportunity to point, the
chances are the machinery of the point will
move more harmoniously, and the instinctive
point may be completed. But the intellectual
flush and chase will assert themselves and the
conflict between instinct and intelligence will
go on. The dog will point a little and will like
it, but will like better to flush and chase.

To understand all this and plan to preserve
the good and get rid of the evil is mutch better
than to go at the dog roughshod for his faults.
Rather let the pointing instinct develop and
then try to eradicate the flushing and chasing
fault. This is not always an easy task, and the
breaker must understand in the beginning that he
will fail in many attempts to make the dog steady
on point. The dog must be assisted in the first
instance to come upon a covey of birds in the
most advantageous way possible. If the breaker
has located a covey in a likely place he can work
his dog toward it, taking advantage of the
wind and time of day to secure a point. The

Modern Breaking 87

dog should be given a run before being taken
to the birds, and if it is a nice open field a long
check cord may be attached to the dog’s collar.
All the breaker can do now is to try to get to the
dog when he first makes game. Once he gets
near him while pointing, little trouble will be
experienced in making the dog stanch. In this,
of course, there is some risk of making the
dog a false pointer, but with that fault, serious
as it 1s, it is not necessary to be very much
concerned at present. What is particularly
desired at this time is to get the dog in the
way of pointing stanchly, and the main thing
is to get to the pointing dog when he stops.
If he appears to have the body scent of birds
he should be held by the collar a moment and
stroked gently while the order of ‘“‘to-ho’’ is
given, repeated in a low tone. The breaker
should then attempt to push the dog forward.
The dog will resist this, likely, and settle back
against the-force of the breaker. This is what
is desired—a contrary idea to that of breaking
in on the birds. Great liberties may be taken
with the dog at this time. He may be taken
by the root of the tail and gently lifted off his
hind feet and allowed to drop, and pushed
about gently.

With this, as with all other lessons, too much
must not be done at once. If the first attempt
is anything like a success, the dog will enjoy

88 Modern Breaking

the handling and will look for the breaker to
come to him when he points again. At this
time the same lesson may be repeated, and
finally the dog may be lifted up bodily from
his feet and thrown forward. When- this is
done he will drop into a point and shrink back
from the birds. This may be carried so far
that the dog may be thrown right into the
midst of the covey of birds. Nothing tends to
make a dog stanch quicker than this, and about
the only thing to avoid is spoiling the dog’s
gracefulness in pointing. Properly done, this
may be added to, for the dog will allow him-
self to be pushed in all manner of attitudes.

Of course, this is the time to teach the dog
to drop to wing. All that is necessary is to
get a good hold of the check cord and give
the dog a tap with the whip when the birds
rise, compelling him to remain down quite
a while after they have gone.

THE FIELD TRIAL WINNER, HARD CASH, BY YOUN

G JINGO—BROWN’S BELLA POINTER
Owned by Mr, A. M. Master

8, Jaksonville, I},

ieee bs Ro XT.

YARD BREAKINS.—Dropping to order, shot and wing; walk-
ing to heel.

HE mere teaching of a dog to drop to or-

der is a very simple matter if the breaker
is satisfied to compel obedience with the
whip. But it is better to take more time on
this lesson by following a more kindly treat-
ment.. To put a short check cord on the dog,
strike him with the whip and order him to drop
is simple, because the dog naturally goes down
through the tear which the punishment inspires.
But this cows the dog and makes future les-
sons more difficult. It is better, therefore, to
adopt a slower method and preserve the dog’s
spirits. It is an easy lesson at the worst.

In the beginning all that is necessary is to
put the dog down and hold him there, using
the word “drop” occasionally so that the dog
will associate the word with the act. To be
sure, he will roll over, attempt to rise and
possibly exhibit much unnecessary playfulness.
Do not be too particular the first time the les-
son is given. After it has been tried a few
times it may be well to give the dog a slight

g2 Modern Breaking

cuff and speak sharply, using only the word
“drop.” ust say, “drop.” “The whip miayeee
laid upon the dog lightly or it may be cracked,
but a young dog should not be struck with any
degree of severity. Just encugh force should
be used to check the playfulness and command
attention. If when first left alone the dog
should jump up and go away, he should be
brought back with as little fuss as possible and
compelled to remain in the same place from
which he arose until ordered to hold up. But
it must be borne in mind that before this lesson
is attempted the breaker should have provided
against the possibility of the dog’s running
away. A quiet room or enclosure should be
selected for the purpose and an extra precau-
tion might be taken by putting a long check
cord on the dog. When the dog gets a fair
idea of what is demanded of him the whip
should be used in order to make him drop
quickly at the first command. For this purpose
it is not necessary to punish the dog severely.
The order should be given and the whip laid
on his back at the same time. If he does net
drop quickly the order should be repeated in a
sharper tone and the whip laid on a little
heavier. So soon as the dog goes down the
breaker should remain standing, and then reach
down and stroke the dog gently, saying at the
same time, in a low tone, “drop,” repeating the

Modern Breaking 93

word several times. The dog may be disposed
to move when the breaker lays hands on him,
but this action should be anticipated and the
dog checked sharply, both by order and a slap
with the hand. When the dog gets far enough
advanced in this lesson so that the breaker may
move about while he remains quiet, the dog
may be checked in any attempt at moving by
cracking the whip and speaking sharply. This
lesson should be kept up in the enclosure until
the dog will remain down while the breaker
moves about freely. Then the dog, may be
given the same lessons out of doors; care, how-
ever, must be taken not to attempt too much
at first, for the dog should not be allowed to
get into the habit of running away or refusing
to down promptly. The dog, therefore, should
be given his first out-of-door lessons while
withisa easy reach of the breaker, and after he
will drop promptly when near at hand he may
be tried at a distance. Gradually the distance
may be increased until the dog will drop
promptly anywhere. within hearing of the
breaker’s voice. All this, however, is not likely
to follow in as easy sequence as it appears in
print. Patience and perseverance are required.
What the dog does not learn to-day may be
taught to-morrow. The breaker can afford to
wait.

In these out-of-door exercises the same

94 Modern Breaking

method should be followed as that used indoors.
When the dog refuses to drop he should be
caught and taken back to the spot where he was
ordered down, and there compelled to drop. A
few cuts of the whip, accompanied by the order
to drop, given in a sharp tone, are now neces-
sary. After the dog has been down a few
moments the breaker should walk away, going
first on one side of the dog, then on the other.
If the dog gets up he should be caught and
compelled to remain where he had_ been
“dropped,” until the order to hold up is given.
Perfection in this lesson is simply a matter of
experience on the dog’s part and persistency on
the part of the breaker. The point aimed at is
promptness. When the order is given, the dog
should drop in his tracks as though he had been
shot.: When he has reached a comparative de-
eree of periection in this ‘respect, he may “pe
given some preliminary work in dropping to
shot.
DROEPING TO SHOT.

Before this lesson is attempted the breaker
should know whether or not the dog is gunshy.
It won’t do to find this out by firing a gun
near him at first, as the puppy might become
gunshy at once, and a gunshy dog is scarcely
worth -breaking. Therefore, before anything
else is done he should become familiar with
the report of a gun, and the best way to do this

Modern Breaking 95

is to fire a pistol, loaded lightly, while the dog
is ranging well away from the breaker. After
the shot has been fired the pistol should be put
away and no attention whatever paid to the

‘dog. If he shows some signs of fear the

breaker should walk right along on his course
as though nothing had happened. By no means
should he attempt to encourage or pet the dog.
Nothing could be worse. Dogs are sympathetic
creatures and when slightly frightened nothing
heightens that fright like a recognition of it
by the breaker. If the breaker pays no attention
to the thing that frightened the dog it is more
than likely the dog will pay no further attention
to it than to watch the breaker to see what
effect it has on him. If the breaker notices it
seriously the dog will be certain that it is some
terrible thing, and when he hears it again will
be more frightened than ever. Once the effect
of the first shot is passed over without trouble
the rest will be comparatively easy. A few
shots like the first will accustom the dog to the
noise, and in the course of a few days he will
stand firm under all conditions. When the dog
is bold enough to pay little or no attention to
the noise of a pistol, a gun may be substituted,
with blank cartridges lightly loaded.

After all danger of the dog’s becoming gun-
shy has passed he may be taught to drop to
shot. There is nothing to do in teaching a dog

96 Modern Breaking

to drop to shot but to compel him to drop at
the report of the gun. When the dog has no
fear of the noise, a gun may be discharged over
him and the command to drop given at the
same time. Of course it is more convenient to -
use a pistol in the first lessons, having a whip
in one hand with which the dog may be given
a light cut simultaneously with the discharge of
the pistol and the order to drop. The dog soon
comes to associate the order with the report and
suits his action accordingly. After learning
that he is to drop when the gun is discharged,
the dog may be punished with a few cuts of the
whip when he refuses, care always being taken
to make the dog drop in the place where he
stood when the gun was discharged. By patient
practice the dog can be brought to such a degree
of perfection in this respect, that he will drop in
his tracks while going at a gallop when he hears
the report of the gun.
DROPPING TO. WING.

Dropping to wing is the same thing as drop-
ping to order or shot, the breaker simply com-
pelling the) doe to“drop at the rise ofa ‘bind.
Great care, however, is necessary in the first
lessons lest the dog be made a blinker, a fault
of a very serious character. High-strung, young
dogs are disposed to be frightened at the rise of
a bird or covey, and no attempt should be
made to teach dropping to wing until the dog

N

EN YRS OF

Modern Breaking 97

is bold and stanch on his points. Then by the
aid- of a check cord he can soon be~-taught to
drop when the birds rise.

WALKING TO HEEL.

The judgment of the breaker will be called
into action in deciding just when the dog should
be taught to come to heel and remain there.
The idea it is attempted to convey is that too

WALKING TO HEEL

much must not be attempted at once. The field
work that goes on all the while the dog is being
yard broken, as before stated, will keep up the
dog’s spirits and fit him for his other lessons.
Walking to heel may be taught while the
other lessons are being learned, and if properly

98 Modern Breaking

managed the dog will have learned the lesson
before the breaker is aware of it.

In the first place a stout check cord should be
put on the dog, and while out for a short walk
he may be pulled back to heel occasionally.
Two or three short lessons will give him an
idea of what is wanted. Then the breaker
should take a stiff switch or whip in one hand
while he holds the lead in the other. After the
dog has been pulled back to heel he may be
tapped lightly on the head whenever he is pulled
back, or tapped with the switch. After having
been fairly well perfected in these lessons, a
longer check cord may be used and the dog
allowed to go the length of the line. Then he
should be ordered to heel, sharply and at the
same time be given a sharp cut with the whip.
This will tend to make the dog hurry to heel
whenever he hears the order. - When he becomes
well up in this work the cord may be taken off
and the dog taught to come to heel without the
aid of the cord.

Creer iE Ro xX I I.

Backinc.—A form of the pointing instinct; bad manners;
rushing in; independence of character.

OOD breakers are often greatly perplexed

over the matter of backing. Nothing is
simpler than teaching a dog to back. In
fact, there is little more to it than permitting
the dog to learn it himself. To do that requires
a good knowledge of self, for the temptation to
aid the dog is always present, and men find it
very difficult to resist this temptation even after
they know what they should do and what they
should not do.

Backing is but another form of the expres-
sion of the pointing instinct. Dogs love to back
just as they love to point, and it is about as
natural for them to do one as it is to do the

other. A young dog will poinf a leaf stirred
by the breeze, and another young dog will

drop into-a back at the sight of such a point.
So in the field the natural tendency of the dog
is to back, but usually he is hindered by the
interference of the breaker trying to steady him.
The dog contracts a habit of running up to the
pointing dog and continues it merely as a habit.

100 Modern Breaking

The simplest way to teach backing is to have
the dog which is to be taught range well
back of another dog, and so soon as the other
dog is on point allow the young dog to gallop
toward him without saying a word. To speak
is to disconcert the dog, and really encourage
him not to back, but to go on. When he stops
get to him by approaching from the front. Walk
toward him slowly with uplifted hand and speak
slowly and kindly to him. Once the breaker
gets his hands on him and pushes him about a
little, the dog is practically taught this accom-
plishment. If, however, he has had plenty of
opportunities to back and still refuses, he must
be made to “to-ho,” behind the pointing dog. If
he refuses to stop and goes on to join in the
point, he should be dragged back and made to
to-ho. After a few lessons of this kind he
may be started on slowly toward the pointing
dog until he will draw and stiffen to a point.
Sometimes a dog gets the habit of rushing in
so thoroughly confirmed, that it will be neces-
sary to make him drop behind the pointing dog.
This of course should be well back and should
be continued until the dog shows some interest
in the point. Then the breaker should go to
him, lift him gently to his feet and “draw” him
on until he stiffens. Finally he will come to
like to back and will point well behind. But
some care is necessary to get a dog out of the

Modern Breaking IOI

habit, once it is formed, of dropping on a
back, as he should stand up as stiff as he would
stand on a point. Another thing to be avoided
with a young dog is the habit of watching the
other dog for the sake of an opportunity to
back. The young dog should hunt inde-
pendently, but if worked with an older and wiser
dog will sometimes lost heart and trust too
much to his brace mate. When this happens a
change of dogs is all that is necessary. Prefer-
ably a dog not as good should be chosen.

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CHAP Tia oe

RANGING.—Quartering ; field trial methods; coveys and single
birds; grouse and woodcock dogs; turning out

(Fe the English field, either for ordinary
shooting or field trial work, a great deal
is expected of a well-broken doe 24m 9the
way of quartering, but in this country little
attention is paid to this accomplishrient. In
England the fields are generally small and regu-
lar and the dog—that is, the ideal dog—is
required to hunt one field out thoroughly and
systematically before entering another. “Break-
ing fence’ is counted a rather serious fault, and
dogs are taught to wait for the order to leave
one field for another. In this country the land
is more broken, the fields large and irregular
and dogs are developed so that they will rely
more on their own judgment in ranging. Here
a well-broken dog, with good bird sense, will
waste no time quartering out barren spots for
the sake of precision, but will search out a
likely place and then move on to what in his
judgment is the next nearest spot likely to hold
birds. He takes no direction from his handler,
for he needs none. At times, again, the dog

Modern Breaking 103

may be directed, but having already a mind to
go to the place to which directed, he takes the
order kindly. Generally speaking, however, the
well-broken dog hunts out all the likely places
on either side of the handler, keeping always on
the course the handler has selected.

Field trials have changed the natural and most
killing range by the excessive demand for speed.
Handlers in recent years have broken their dogs
to get as far away as possible and to keep out
at their work. A dog working in the distance
Sppeaes, taster than lie really is.- If -he is.a
wide ranger, galloping away freely when cast
off, it matters little if he does some loafing
when two or three hundred yards away. He
will be sure to get credit for more speed than a
faster dog which has a narrower but more
killing range.

While dogs at field trials do not quarter and
would get no additional credit for their work
if they did, .it is nevertheless a good plan to
teach them to quarter. It will give them -a
more systematic range. They will soon forget
or refuse to cut up a field in precise lines after
they have been given their head, but they will
retain enough of their education in this respect
to make them keep well on the course, hunting
on either side of the handler. Then, too, when
it comes to single bird work, the dog which has
been taught to quarter works out a small piece

104 | Modern Breaking

of ground better and handles much easier than
the dog which goes twisting about in circles.
Dogs which are taught to quarter naturally
acquire a restricted range, for they must be
taught in a comparatively small field and must
be kept well within the hearing of voice and
whistle. They may work just as fast, or may,
as a matter of fact, be worked faster in a small
field than in a larger one, but their range of a
necessity will be shortened. Once they have
learned to quarter they may be thrown upon
their own resources of judgment and develop a
wide range, preserving enough of the idea of
quartering to prompt them to “come around”
and cross before their handler to the other side
of the course.

For ruffed grouse or woodcock shooting
quartering is a very desirable accomplishment,
as the dog must have a contracted range and
hunt regularly to the gun. In narrow swamps
the quartering dog will beat out all the ground
at a moderate pace, while the handler may walk
in the open on either side of the swamp. In the
woods, of course, the dog will beat out all the
ground on either side of the handler, crossing
and recrossing in front of the gun.

It may be said, therefore, that it is advisable
to teach all dogs to quarter. The virtue may
be preserved in the ruffed grouse and woodcock
dog, and practically discarded in the case of the

Modern Breaking 105

quail dog so soon as he gets a good idea of
ranging always from one side to the other of
the course.

Quartering is one of the most difficult of all
lessons to teach, and to reach anything like a
fair degree of perfection great skill, patience
and perseverance are necessary. The dog will
be sure to go wrong, and after he gets a good
idea of what the breaker means by directing
him with his hand, the dog will persist in going
his own way. He will be sure to turn in quite
as often as he will turn out, thus traveling over
eroundd already beat out: This latter™ fault. is
natural, as when the dog is ranging and the
breaker whistles for him to turn, the natural
thing to do is to turn toward the breaker, and
this brings him on the inside of his proper
course. Anyone who attempts to teach a dog
to beat out a field in comparatively straight
lines, going from side to side at right angles
with the breaker’s course, will have much
trouble getting the dog to turn out on the beat
instead of in toward the handler.

In the beginning, select a small field for this
work and be sure to go up wind. The dog will
travel well across the wind and will be more
likely to turn out when whistled around, as
naturally he will like to keep his head in the
wind. Start the dog off to the right with a
wave of the hand in the direction you wish him

106 Modern Breaking

to go; then walk straight up the middle of the
field. When you whistle for him to turn, beat
off to the left yourself, and as the dog gets
near your true course, turn and move sharply
to the right and go with him on his proper
course until he has passed you. Now turn
sharply about and go to the right and a little
forward. When the dog turns lead him on his
course by going straight to the right ‘of your
true course. The dog will zig-zag about and
often show a disposition to go straight ahead,
but must be whistled in and led on the proper
beat. The breaker will find it necessary to
travel a great deal diagonally from a straight
line through the center of the field, in order to
get the dog in the way of going from side to
side of the field, but as the dog becomes accus-
tomed to the work the handler may keep closer
to the true course, although it will be necessary
to turn a little when the dog is coming toward
him in order to keep on the beat. When the
dog is coming at right angles toward the breaker
he will naturally veer off his beat and go in the
direction the breaker is traveling. Whenever he
does this, which will happen very often, the
breaker must whistle him back and move
straight away in the direction he wishes the
dog to travel. This is about all there is to
teaching a dog the early lessons in quartering,
but it is a tedious job and one calculated to

“=

roils & B

A—Correct ranging, turning up into the wind. B—Yoor
ranging. C—Course pursued by handler in
teaching a dog to beat his ground.

Modern Breaking 109

arouse friction between breaker and dog. How-
ever, perseverance and good judgment on the
part of the breaker will accomplish the object
sought to be attained.

It should be said in this connection that these
early lessons in quartering never should be long.
The dog must be fresh and full of go in order
to enter into it in a spirit of enjoyment. So
soon as the dog tires he must be taken away, as
an attempt to force the lesson will only make the
dog sulky.

A nice level grassfield or a stubble, where
the going is-easy, is the best places for this
purpose, and the fields should be free from
larks or game birds. These, if present, will
attract the dog’s attention and constantly keep
him off the true course. The work should be
done in the early morning or late afternoon,
when the dog will be likely to enjoy the fast
gallop through the field. A cloudy day, of
course, will do, and if there is any moisture on
the grass to keep the dog fresh, so much the
better.

The amateur will do well to reach a moderate
degree of perfection in teaching his dog to
quarter, but the experienced breaker can force
the dog to gallop in straight lines across his
own course with the whip. It is a dangerous
thing for a novice to undertake, but a man
acquainted with the business can crack his whip

IIO Modern Breaking

at the dog as he gallops toward him, and have
him come on true at an increased pace, going by
him to the crack of the whip good-naturedly.
When the dog turns too soon, he may be turned
back with the crack of the whip and driven on
his true course to the other end of the field,
where he should turn to the whistle.

To reach this degree of excellence the doz
must be perfected in stopping to order, so that
when he comes in he may be stopped and sent
back. At first he will be disposed to sulk and
come in when ordered out, but must be stopped
again and again and directed in the opposite
direction, the breaker walking toward him. By
persisting in driving the dog from him, by
stopping him instantly he comes in, the dog will
finally come to understand what is required of
him, and will learn, too, that there is peace only
in doing as he should do. Finally, a dog will
rather enjoy the work and when coming in at
a gallop may be stopped promptly with the up-
lifted hand and waved back in the direction
from which he came. All this is difficult and
tedious work, but it is a splendid accomplish-
ment when perfected..

Ranging really means going wide or close, as
the necessity of the case demands. To find a
covey the dog should be sent out at top speed
and kept out, ranging as wide as practicable on
either side of the handler, Dogs whose range

Ps 4h

. Modern Breaking III
has been contracted as a result of having been
taught to quarter can be got out by giving them
their head and working them only a little
while at a time. When well broken they soon
learn to range out well for coveys and then
come down to close work on the single birds.
But where it is desired to widen a dog’s range
little work should be done on single birds.
Instead, the dog should be kept at covey work.
As soon as one covey has been found the dog
should be allowed to rest a moment and then
started out to look for another covey. On the
other hand, when from an excess of covey
work the dog becomes wild and shows a disposi-
tion to bolt instead of paying attention to the
handler’s course, the range may be restricted
by giving him a great deal of work on single
birds. All this is a matter of judgment with
the handler and the quality of the dog’s range
for coveys and single birds depends upon the
breaker’s skill. It should be remembered that
speed and range are different things. A dog
may be slow and yet be a wide ranger, while
on the other hand a dog may be very fast and
yet have a narrow range. All this depends upon
breaker. Either a fast or slow dog may be
given a wide range.

CHAP Tt ekeeore

RETRIEVING.—Natural and force system; dangers of the spike
collar; a new method.

HERE has been in years past some dis-
cussion as to the desirability of having a
setter or pointer trained to retrieve, and a
small body of breakers and sportsmen still exist
who contend that it is not a bird dog’s work
and claim that it makes a dog unsteady and
affects the delicacy of his scent.
These are largely old-fashioned, English
ideas. The greater body of sportsmen consider
retrieving not only a very pretty accomplish-
ment, but in some sections o7 the ‘county a
necessity, and that it is an advantage every-
where will be difficult to deny. A well-broken
dog will retrieve a dead or wounded bird
promptly and tenderly, and can be kept just as
steady aseone which is incapable of doing so.
There are two systems of teaching a dog to
retrieve, the force system and the natural sys-
tem. The latter consists in teaching a- dos,
while in a spirit of playfulness, to fetch a ball
or any soft object that is thrown for him.
Some dogs take to this very readily and make

Modern Breaking 113

cheerful and prompt retrievers. The objection
to this method, however, is that if at any time
the dog concludes he is tired of the play there
is no way of enforcing obedience.

No dog is likely to be a reliable retriever
unless taught by the force system, and it may
as well be stated frankly that this branch of
breaking must be handled with the greatest
care. Some dogs get a setback that requires
a season's field work to overcome, others never
get over it. The fault is not in the principles
but in the manner of applying them. All of
the articles heretofore published on force re-
trieving recommend the use of the spike collar.
This instrument in itself is a cruel affair and
in the hands of a quick-tempered man often
becomes an instrument of torture that will
cow the boldest dog, and has ruined many a
timid one. The constant jerking of the collar
and the forcing of the spikes against the deli-
cate glands and organs of the neck frequently
result in serious injury, and account for many
chronic coughs and thick-winded dogs. Some
hard-headed dogs broken with the spike col-
lar will work very well while they are wearing
the collar, but at other times may refuse to do
so. If the breaker has a collar in his pocket,
obedience can quickly be enforced, but it is not
convenient to carry a spike collar in the field,
and it is in the field that the dog balks.

II4 Modern Breaking

The system here offered will enable any per-
son with a reasonable amount of patience and
firmness to compel a dog to retrieve; it will
bring a stubborn dog to terms and will not
cow the most timid. It has been in use for
years by some of the best professional breakers,
but has never before been given to the public.
Some dogs get the idea very quickly and with
a little encouragement learn very rapidly; oth-
ers will test the breaker’s patience and temper.
In the system here outlined, instead of using
a spike collar, the dog’s attention to the sub-
ject in hand is held and punishment applied
by pinching the ear, the breaker using the
thumb and finger-nail for that purpose. It is
in every way an improvement upon the spike
collar, as the severity of the punishment can be
more delicately regulated, there is nothing for
the dog to get frightened at, and the means
of forcing obedience are. always at hand. The
breaker must understand that the dog’s ear
must ‘never. be «pulled or’ - jerked. 2-3) ened
simply be pinched hard enough to cause the dog
to good-naturedly open his mouth and hold an
object placed there.

In teaching a dog to retrieve, it is always
best to have a dog well along in his training,
so as to avoid any danger of cowing him, but
in this as in all things, the dog’s disposition
must be studied. A good plan to follow in

OPENING HIS MOUTH

Modern Breaking Ty

breaking some dogs to retrieve is a combina-
tion of both the force and natural systems. If you
have a bright, courageous puppy about the
kennel, which is always nosing about and pick-
ing up things, he can be taught to hold and
carry small objects about the kennel, but no
attempt should be made to force him to retrieve
until well along in his field work. The first les-
son is the most important one and the breaker
must use extreme care in the very beginning
not to frighten the dog and cause it to become
cowed or sulky.

There are six things to teach a dog sepa-
rately: First, to hold an object after it is
placed in the mouth; second, to open the mouth
so that the object may be placed there; third,
to take it from the hand; fourth, to pick it
up from the floor; fifth, to go a distance for it;
Sixim, to fetch it back. Each of these points
must be forced separately.

An object might be thrown upon the floor
and no amount of punishment would induce the
dog to pick it up. He simply would not know
what was required of him. But, by teaching
the dog separately those things that he should
be compelled to do, he will come to understand
the connection and know all about the detail
that enters into, the one act of retrieving.

The first lessons should be given in a large
room where the breaker and his pupil will be

118 Modern Breaking

undisturbed. It is presumed that the dog has
already been broken to lead quietly and walk
at heel at command. Slip the lead strap over
the dog’s head and take two or three turns
around the room with him to quiet him down,
then stop, stroke his head and neck and take the
ear in the right hand, which can also hold the
lead or the end of the latter may be dropped
to the floor.

In the left hand should be held a corncob
or roll of cloth of similar size. Slightly pinch
the ear with the thumb nail, the dog will good-
naturally open his mouth in remonstrance and,
as soon as he does so, thrust the corncob into
his mouth. The ear is pinched simply to get
him to open his mouth. As soon as he does so
and the object is placed in his mouth, discon-
tinue the punishment. The dog will imme-
diately attempt to get the object out of his
mouth and will probably succeed in doing so
several times, but be patient with your pupil,
do not get excited or use unnecessary force and
gradually any fright, timidity or stubbornness
on the part of the dog will be overcome. Some
dogs may refuse to open the mouth when the
ear is pinched. In °a-case..of this kind apace
the right hand up over the dog’s head from
behind until it is directly in front of the eyes,

then with the thumb on one side of the face
and the fingers on the other, force the skin

REACHING FOR IT

Modern Breaking Tai
of the cheeks against the teeth until he opens
his mouth; the cob can then be inserted. After
the cob is placed in the mouth either by forc-
ing it open or by pinching the ear, make the
dog hold it there for a time by supporting the
lower jaw with the hand. After he gets so
he will hold the cob when supported by the
hand, gradually remove the hand by passing it
back slowly toward the throat, as if stroking
him. If the dog shows any intention of throw-
ing out the cob, immediately move the hand
back and support the jaw, gradually stroking
the lower jaw and the throat. In this way the
dog easily can be taught to hold the cob in
the mouth and the support of the hand re-
imeved without the dog realizing it. If, as
soon as he realizes that the support of the hand
is removed, he drops the cob, pinch the ear
sharply, and as the dog opens his mouth again,
replace the cob and again support the lower
jaw and gradually remove the support of the
hand, as before directed. Do not be in any
hurry about these first lessons. Repeat them
twice a day for ten minutes at a time until he
will hold the cob carefully. The dog must
then be taught to carry the cob while being
led about the room. This is another new les-
son, and, like the first one, must be taught by
degrees patiently and without fuss, noise or
anger. Take plenty of time with these first les-

122 Modern Breaking

sons, do not get discouraged or attempt to ac-
complish too much or have the dog too perfect
in manner of performance.

The chances are that immediately the dog

starts to walk he will drop the cob from his-

mouth. It must be replaced and another at-
tempt made. In this way he must be taught by
degrees to walk first a short distance with the
object in the mouth, then farther and farther
until a complete circuit of the room can be
made several times without any inclination on
the part of the dog to drop the cob. After
fully understanding these first two lessons—the
holding and carrying of the cob cheerfully—
the dog can be advanced to the next lesson.
In the first lesson he was taught simply to open
the mouth and hold the cob or object to be
placed there. In the second lesson he was
taught to carry it. In the next lesson he must
be taught to grab the object from the hand.
With the left hand, hold the cob close to the
mouth, pinch the ear lightly with the right
hand, and say, “Fetch.” As soon as the mouth

is opened place the object in it and stop the |

punishment. The impresson you wish to con-
vey and what you want the dog to understand
is, that when he hearse the word “fetch,” and
does not have the cob in his mouth, he will be
punished by having his ear pinched, and that
all punishment ceases when the cob is in the

pee =~

HOLD IT

i Sel

oa
ae

Modern Breaking 125

mouth. He will soon learn that the thing to do
when he hears the word “fetch,” is to get the
cob in his mouth and thereby avoid punishment.
Whenever he refuses to take it upon hearing
fier order, sicteh, pinch the ear and push the
object forward. After the dog will grab the
object from the hand promptly when it is held
an inch or two in front of the nose, hold it
a little farther away, first six or eight inches,
then a foot, then two or three feet, then still
a little farther, and when the dog goes at it
promptly, the object should be moved still far-
ther away in order to induce him to keep his
tyes ou at and follow it. If he. gets a little
slow about moving, the ear can be pinched gently
to remind him of what is expected of him, but
as long as the pupil is reasonably prompt, it
should be omitted.

Don't hurry him about these early lessons,
but take plenty of time and don’t become dis-
couraged if he is clumsy about grabbing for the
cop. At this time never throw the object or
lay it on the floor and try to get him to pick
it up. He won't do it and your efforts to make
him do so will only confuse him. He knows
only enough to be guided by the hand, and if
you hold out your hand without having any-
thing in it, he will likely grab your hand.

If the object be held in any other way than
that in which he is accustomed to seeing it

126 Modern Breaking

held, it is most likely that he will refuse to
take it. If it should be held higher or lower
than it has been held previously, the result will
be the same. Therefore, great care should be
taken to gradually raise the object above the
level of his head, and in the same way lower
it until it may be held to the ground. When-
ever the object is held so low that the dog will
refuse to take it, it should be moved back to
the next lowest place to which he has been ac-
customed, and then it should be held gradually
a little lower. Finally, the object should be
laid on the ground, but the breaker should not
let go tof it; ‘keeping ‘his hand «inder” one wenn
of it while the other end rests on the ground.
The dog will act awkwardly in getting hold of
it, ‘and the first few attempts may fail en-
tirely in trying to get it into his mouth, in
which case it will assist him if the object is
raised a httle so: that: he may ©erasp 1 more
easily. When he will do this, let the object
be placed upon the ground with the hand
alongside of it, for, if the hand is taken away,
the dog will refuse to touch the object because
at this period he is guided largely by the hand.

When the dog will pick the object up from
the floor, the hand gradually should be drawn
away, each time a little farther, until finally
the dog will pick up the object without paying
any attention to the hand. These various steps

_

Modern Breaking 129

are not to be attempted in one or two lessons,
but should be taught a little every day. In
giving a lesson, do not begin where you left
off the previous lesson, but rehearse him through
all he has been taught previously before at-
tempting to go a stage farther.

After the dog will pick the cob or other ob-
ject from the floor, it should be held above his
head to one side, then the other, and all about
him: °tt should be held’ for him in one place,
and as he starts for it be moved quickly to
some other place, and his ear pinched if he
refuses to follow it. It should be dropped then
on the floor, but not at a distance from him
until he will pick it up near by. When he does
this, the object should be taken in hand, and
as he follows to get it should be dropped close
to him and then a little farther off. At times
he may go five or six feet and get it nicely,
and then again he will try to pick it up, and
from some cattse miss it. This will discourage
him and cause him to return, in which case the
breaker should go with his and assist him in
recovering it. He will be very easily dis-.
couraged at this period, but if the breaker per-
severes in a quiet manner and does not hurry
or attempt to do too much in one lesson, the
dog soon will get accustomed to the work and
lose much of the fear.

In throwing the object for him to go and

130 Modern Breaking

fetch, it will be feund advisable, and in fact
necessary, to accompany him for a number of
times before expecting him to go alone. This
should not be broken off suddenly. The breaker
should start with the dog as if he were going
to the object, and having got the dog well
started on the way, should stop and let the
dog go on alone. As the dog becomes more
and more advanced, it will not be necessary
to pinch his ear. The lead should be kept
on him so as to have him under restraint, but
further than that he should be got to work
without punishment. Later the lead can be
taken off and the dog induced to work without it.

Practice is all that is necessary now to make
the dog perfect in this work. These lessons,
that up to this time have been given in a room
without spectators and with no other dogs to
disturb the breaker or distract the attention
of the pupil, must be repeated now in the yard.
There, the surroundings and conditions being
new, he may become confused and bungle or
be clumsy in his work. This can be overcome
by a little patient rehearsing.

During all these lessons, the cob or other
object used has been handled with the left hand.
The dog will become so accustomed to this,
that when a change is made and the object is
held in the right hand, he possibly may refuse
to take it or go for it when thrown with that

A GOOD RETRIEVER

Modern Breaking 133

hand. ‘The breaker must take plenty of time
to accustom the dog to this change.

In all these early lessons the dog has been
taught to grasp a corncob or a roil of soft
cloth of similar size. The corncob is, of course,
the more convenient, as it is easily replaced
when dirty, light and nice to hold, and does
not slip in the mouth. When these objects are
handled well, you must begin accustoming the
dog to others, such as the dog whip, an old
hat, stick, cane, a ball, old shoe or slipper, etc.
A good-sized wooden ball, into which wire nails
have been driven and the tips filed off and
slightly sharpened, is a good thing to work
him with. It will require considerable care
on his part to pick it up without getting
pricked. This will make him soft mouthed.
Another expedient, that can be used with a
hard-mouthed dog, is to put a small pincushion
with the pin points turned outward inside of a
woolen sock. An object of this kind requires
careful handling and will break most any dog of
closing down too hard on objects he is retriev-
ing. Socks of different colors should be used
from time to time, so that the dog will not
become apprehensive at the sight of objects of
one color. Pieces of meat are nice things for
him to fetch, and when he does this nicely and
will fetch raw meat with a tender mouth there

134 Modern Breaking

will be no danger of his injuring birds in the
field, even if they are badly shot.

The dog’s education, however, should not
cease when he will retrieve well about the room
or yard. When taken into the field, probably
he will refuse to lift his first bird unless he
has been drilled previously at home on a dead
bird, and even if this has been carefully done,
the excitement of field work and the changed
conditions for a time will drive all his early
education out of his mind.

In working with a dead bird, procure a
freshly killed quail or a stuffed one, bring the
wings down into position and fasten them with
a few wraps of string or rubber bands. If the
deg fails to pick it up when thrown, begin at
the beginning and go through all the various
stages of holding, carrying, reaching for and
fetching. it. Then throw it away farther and
farther, and finally hide it and go with him to
search for it. In this way he can be taken
slowly from his yard work to that in the field.
By this method any man of ordinary sense and
a reasonable degree of patience can teach a
dog to retrieve without the aid of a spike col-
lar, whip or any other contrivance.

;

CHAPTER X V.

GUNSHYNESS.—Overcoming fear of the gun.

HE gunshy dog is a problem most break-

ers display great energy in avoiding, and
the subject is generally dismissed with the
remark that a gunshy dog is not worth break-
ing. There will be no argument raised over
the statement that it is worth a great deal to
break a gunshy dog, but whether the dog is
worth breaking is a question that depends
altogether upon the dog. Some of the best
dogs. which have ever stepped into the hunting
field have been gunshy, and afterward developed
the greatest courage, hardihood, stamina and
intelligence in the pursuit of game.

Gunshyness is due to excessive timidity at
unaccustomed sounds, and does not denote any
lack of courage in the presence of those scenes
and conditions that appeal directly to the dog’s
natural instincts. The gentle, affectionate little
setter bitch which will slink away as if hurt
to the death at a harsh word often has all the
courage of a lion. She may travel two blocks
out of her’ way to avoid a snarling city cur,
when on her way to the hunting field, but once

136 Modern Breaking

there will plunge headforemost into a patch of
briers or plow uncomplainingly through the
sedge grass and weeds that have a coating of
December ice that cuts like needles. The bull-
dog when asked to display the same fortitude
will come whimpering back to its master.

If you own a gunshy dog by all means go
to work to break him. There are nummerous
methods to be pursued and all are aimed at
what seems a comparatively simple problem—
the overcoming in the animal of the fear of
the discharge of the gun. In the abstract, this
should be easy. The dog is an intelligent ani-
mal, observing and quick to recognize friend
or foe, readily adaptable to circumstances, and
if properly handled will learn that the report
of a gun is not fraught with pain or danger.

One method and a very simple one is to
lead your dog to a trap shooting ground
day after day, until he becomes accustomed to
and loses all fear of the continuously popping
shells. This practice will and has broken many
a gunshy dog. The great mistake breakers
make in handling a dog affected this way is
that when the dog hears the guns and displays
the utmost fear, they immediately attempt to
reassure him by petting and talking to him.
This simply encourages the dog in the belief
that there is some danger connected with the
noise, and the more you pet him the more

THE FIELD TRIAL
Owned by W. W.

WINNER UNCLE RB, 56135
Titus, West Point, Miss.

Modern Breaking 139

thoroughly he is convinced that something is
wrong. Ihe -proper procedure is for the
breaker to display the utmost composure and to
totally ignore the noise, the dog, and all his ef-
forts to escape. This composure reassures the
dog; he observes that his master is not af-
fected by the noise and gradually comes to
study the noise and its effects on his own ac-
count, and eventually arrives at the conclusion
that there is nothing to fear.

This, however, is a mental operation that
must be entrusted entirely to the dog without
any interference on the part of the breaker, who
should understand that all this cannot be ac-
complished in one lesson or afternoon, but may
take weeks. If trap shoots are not available,
the owner can accustom the dog to the dis-
charge of a gun by firing a pistol several times
before or while the dog is being fed, two or
three times a day. Hunger will go a long way
to overcome the dog’s fear of the gun. For
instance, if a dog is kept chained to a kennel
and is not fed for twenty-four hours, and the
feeding dish is placed in front of his kennel,
he will immediately go to eating. If an attend-
ant fires a small pistol some distance away, with
the greatest fear the dog will rush back to the
farthest corner of his kennel. Then take the
dish away and leave him to his own reflec-
tions. It may take him some time to recover

140 Modern Breaking

his composure and his fear of the gun will still
remain, but hunger is a great stimulus to cour-
age and will prompt both men and dogs to
brave dangers, real and imaginary. In. the
course of five or six hours return again to his
kennel and offer him the tempting dish. When
he comes out to eat do not allow him to satisfy
his ‘/appetite, ‘but ‘let “him -have “three ‘er ‘tour
mouthfuls before the pistol is discharged again.
He will, of course return to his kennel, but
will perhaps make one last grab for a mouthful
of food before doing so. When he does this, it
is only a question of time as to when his tim-
idity will be overcome. By keeping him con-
tinually hungry and gradually decreasing the
distance from the dog at which the pistol is
fired, eventually the pistol can be discharged
while he is eating. . Then for the small pistol
can be substituted one of larger caliber and
finally the shotgun with light loads.

Another method that has much in its favor
is to lead the dog afield day after day. A
small boy can be employed for this purpose,
whose duties will consist in simply following
a couple of shooters. No attention must be
paid to the gunshy patient other than leading
him about where he can see the dogs working,
and if possible become encouraged by scenting
game. At first the boy should follow a hun-
dred or a hundred and fifty yards in the rear

Modern Breaking 141

of the hunters. After the dog will lead quietly
at that distance, he may be brought closer and
closer, until finally he will lead a few yards
behind the shooters while they are busily en-
gaged in shooting. In this way his timidity
gradually passes away and the dog will follow
the shooters without being confined by a lead.
From that, he will in time range out a little
and hunt on his own account, and should be
encouraged to flush and chase to his heart’s con-
tent, and develop a love for the sport that will
completely stifle any fear of the gun. All
this cannot be accomplished in one lesson or
even in an entire season, but if persisted in
patiently the fear of the gun eventually will
be overcome. It is not necessary that the
breaker confine himself to one of these meth-
ods. He can combine all three, if necessary.
The one principle for the breaker to bear
in mind in breaking a dog of gunshyness is
to refrain from petting or attempting to encour-
age the dog or to soothe his feelings. These the
dog must learn to control by his own observa-
tions and reasoning. Every time the breaker
attempts to encourage the dog, he really dis-
courages him, for he gives the dog the im-
pression that there actually is something of
which to be afraid. Whereas, if the breaker
acts as if there is nothing of which to be
afraid and pays no attention to the actions of

142 Modern Breaking

the dog, it is only a question of time until the
dog observes the composure of the breaker and
realizes there is nothing to fear..

If the practice of accustoming puppies to
loud noises, such as the banging of two pans
or the discharge of a small pistol, be followed
up from the time they are weaned, gunshyness
will be avoided.

Cilio? TER”. X V_I.

BAD BREAKING—FAULTS AND ViIcES.—The trailing dog;
barking at horses; rabbit chasing; egg sucking; sheep
chasing; howling; muddy paws.

OST. of the faults and vices that a dog
will display in the course of his career
can be avoided -by care in breaking and a
knowledge of how to control certain undesirable
propensities.
THE TRAILING DOG.

A practice that most amateurs and some
professionals are apt to fall into, and one that
is prolific of undesirable results, is the work-
ing of a young dog with an older and expe-
rienced companion. The most natural of pre-
sumptions is that the young dog will learn to
range and hunt from his running-mate. To
be sure a young dog will range away from his
handler better and farther if paced by another
dog, but in doing so he is neither hunting or
developing the courage, independence of char-
acter and all-absorbing interest in the quest
of game that are characteristics of a high-class
dog. He is not enlarging his fund. of informa-
tion about the habits of birds, the likely spots

144 Modern Breaking

in which to find them, or his knowledge of
wind, scent, and the elusive wiles of running
birds and other qualities that are grouped
under that comprehensive and expressive term,
“bird sense.’ He is simply ranging because
the dog he is hunting with is ranging, and
he relies upon the older dog to locate the game.
He points simply because he has the instinct
to point, but largely loses the ambition and
desire to search and exercise these instincts,
and consequently does not develop knowledge
of how or where to look for game.

The breaker must work the young dog
alone. He will be disappointed in many cases
at the dog’s trotting along a few yards in front
of him, or the lack of interest he displays in
hunting for birds, but day by day he will
see the dog go out farther and farther, and
after he has got the scent of birds, and enjoyed
the flush and chase, he will soon reach out in
his casts for the birds with more independence
and the resulting excitement. Even after the
young dog has developed a pointing instinct
and is stanch on point, or remains steady after
the birds are flushed, he should be worked
alone. There are many things for him yet to
learn: Now and then you will see him puzzled
by some adroit old cock or cunning hen, and on
certain days, with different weather conditions
the scent will come to his nostrils peculiarly, so

THE FIELD TRIAL CHAMPION, LADY’S COUNT GLADSTONE
Owned by G. G. Williamson, Muncie, Ind.

Modern Breaking 147

that he will not know exactly what to make of
it. If worked alone, he will study the matter
over himself and will have confidence in his
conclusions and his own ability, such as pos-
sesses the boy who unaided solves his first geo-
metrical proposition, and fearlessly approaches
the tiext., hese: are the traits and cultivated
instincts that go to make a really high-class
dog, and are the results of time, patience and
repeated opportunity. Even after the young
dog hunts fearlessly and displays plenty of re-
liance and confidence in his own ability, care
must be exercised in putting him down to hunt
in company with other dogs. This is partic-.
ularly true if he is to be entered for field trial
competition. Dogs are companionable crea-
tures, and possess many humanlike traits,
among them cunning, some laziness and per-
fect willingness in many cases to profit by the
efforts of others. Nothing penalizes a dog
so quickly in the eyes of an intelligent field
trial judge as to see him trailing his running
mate or loafing or pottering around carelessly,
while his companion is industriously engaged
with the scent of birds and their proper location.
RABBIT CHASING.

This vice is easily checked in a young dog
by scolding, and if necessary the use of the
whip. When the habit becomes confirmed in
an older dog sterner measures are necessary.

148 Modern Breaking

The following methods are practiced by expe-
rienced breakers: Shoot a rabbit in front of
a chasing dog, tie the rabbit about the dog’s
neck and force him to carry it on a day’s hunt.
This is calculated to disgust an energetic, hard-
hunting dog with the entire rabbit family. If
it does not break him in one day, make him
carry it a second, and a third day or even
longer, about the kennel.

Whipping a dog with a rabbit you have shot
in front of him is sometimes effectual in im-
pressing upon him the undesirability of hunting
‘them. If this does not succeed in breaking him
of the habit, put on the spike collar, attach the
long check cord, that may be allowed to drag
or be attached after he establishes a point. | When
the rabbit is jumped he should be allowed to
chase the full length of the cord and brought to
a sudden stop. A few experiences of this kind
will bring the most confirmed rabbit chaser
to a realization of the fact that he must: sive
up the reprehensible practice,

EGG SUCKING.

Some dogs get into this habit and pursue it
most industriously. Scolding and whipping, if
caught in the act, will cure some dogs. Hand-
ing the dog a hot egg is also usually successful.
If it is not, the contents of an egg may be
partially drawn through a small hole drilled at
one end with the point of a knife, and a quan-

Modern Breaking 149

tity of red pepper inserted. If an egg or sev-
eral eggs thus prepared are placed so that the
dog in his quests can get hold of them, it will
effectually cure him of his propensities in this
direction.

SHEEP CHASING.

This habit is prevented more easily than it
is cured. A young dog should be taken into
the presence of sheep and a sharp lookout kept
on its actions, and the slightest tendency to
chase should be sternly checked. If necessary,
get a long check cord and a whip, and when
the dog starts to chase them give him the full
length of the rope and bring him up sharply.
Go to him, scold him well and if he continues
this practice give him a good thrashing. No
half-way measures will do, as a dog which once
gets a taste of mutton is never safe by him-
self, and must be kept under the constant eye
of his owner or killed.

If a young dog which has shown an incli-
nation to chase sheep is confined in a large
room, such as a barn, with some seasoned and
aggressive old buck which is ready to fight
and assert himself on slight provocation, the
ram will give the young dog a lesson that will
cause him in after years to make long detours
to avoid a flock of sheep.

Another fault more easily prevented than
cured is that of barking at the heels of horses.

150 Modern Breaking

Some dogs take the greatest delight in doing
this. Check the first tendency of this kind
that appears by scolding a puppy and ordering
to heel a dog which has had some training.

HOWLING DOGS.

Dogs often howl at night because of hunger
or of being tormented by fleas as well as from
a spirit of loneliness. Therefore see that the
dog is comfortably housed and well fed at
night. If tormented by insects use measures
to effect their removal. If possible give him
a companion. If not, his howling should be
checked by the command, “quiet,” and a few
blows on the kennel roof with a pole or whip.
This should be repeated every time he howls,
even if it is necessary to go to his kennel a
dozen times during the night, and if he still
persists, the whip should be lightly applied.
After he learns that his howling will bring
nothing more than a rating, with perhaps a
thrashing, he will discontinue barking.

MUDDY PAWS.

Most dogs have the habit of jumping up
and placing their paws on their owners or
strangers. This is bad manners at all times,
and particularly annoying if the dog’s paws
are muddy. It is a fault easily cured. When
the dog jumps upon you, grasp his forepaws
in your hands and speak kindly to him as if

Modern Breaking I51

you were well pleased with his attentions, and
with the toe of your foot step on first one and
then the other of his hind feet. This need not
be done harshly, but just enough to bother him,
and after two or three repetitions of the lesson,
the dog cannot be induced to place his paws
-against you. Neither a harsh word nor a par-
ticle of punishment is necessary in this lesson;
just step on his toes enough to annoy him.

é wes IRS
BO Nw ee IN
\ SS a

WWW WS

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WS

CH ASP tT Re oe LT.

CONDITIONING.—Racehorse methods; feeding; exercise; the
thermometer; massage; plethora; sore feet; lameness ;
clipping.

‘OOD work in the hunting field and the

chances of success in a field ‘trial often
are lessened by - lack of attention to ‘the
details of proper physical form that will enable
an ambitious field performer to sustain the
prolonged and excessive muscular strain neces-
sitated by a closely contested race. The suc-
cess of the American horses on the English
turf is attributed largely to superior methods
of training and conditioning. The quality and
quantity of grain and other foods are care-
fully watched by the American horseman and
the water is frequently transported long dis-
tances to obviate any derangement of the bowels
that might arise from a change.

The gentle massaging of the limbs to prevent
any checking of the capillary circulation and
supporting the exhausted tissues by careful
bandaging is certainly an art, and the study of
the characteristics of the animal so as to pre-
serve that careful balance between overtraining
and drawing too fine, with a stiffening of the
muscles and lack of elasticity, and that point

Modern Breaking 153

where the muscles are full of fire and tone,
strong, yet pliable, with just sufficient fat to
act as a feserye force for Nature; are details
-apparently small in themselves, but large
enough in the aggregate to bring success.

These matters can be studied by trainers of
field trial dogs with an assurance of profit to
themselves, and in only a slightly less degree
are they subjects with which every dog-owning
sportsman should concern himself.

FEEDING.

The dog is a carnivorous animal, but do-
mestication and association with man have al-
tered or affected his organs of digestion, and
he thrives best on a mixed diet or one con-
taining meat, grain and vegetables. The pro-
portions of these depend altogether upon the
individual’s constitution, peculiar existing state
of health and the work he is called upon to do.
These matters can be determined only by ex-
periment and observation. Food and water are
to the muscular system what fuel and steam
are to the locomotive. Muscular exertion causes
a destruction of muscular elements; the destruc-
tion of muscular elements generates heat in
varying degrees and produces a large amount
of effete poisonous matter that the kidneys and
bowels are called upon to remove.

If the dog is in good condition, the muscles
firm, elastic and properly nurtured by a fit

154 Modern Breaking

diet, muscular efforts will, if severe, produce
only the minimum amount of heat and effete
matter. If the animal is in poor condition,
the muscles soft and flabby, and surrounded by
fat, slight exercise will consume a large amount
of heat and waste products. It is these poison-
ous waste products that the athlete, horse and
dog have to contend with, and, no matter how
carefully trained, it is these waste products
that eventually limit their performance.

A dog’s wind may be all right, and he may
be ready to go and want to go, but if the pro-
duction of these waste products is too rapid for
their removal by the kidneys and other organs,
they remain in the system and partially paralyze
the nerves controlling the muscles and they
refuse to act.

The fat or muscle making possibilities of
various foods and the animal’s actual condition
can be studied very intelligently by the use,
after exercise or work, of a small clinical ther-
mometer. When the maximum amcunt of work
short of actual exhaustion produces the mini-
mum degree of heat as registered by the ther-
mometer, the animal is in the best condition
and the foods that will produce these results.
are the foods to be. adopted, and those that
create the greatest heat for a given amount of
work are to be avoided.

As a general working system it can be laid

_CHAMPION JESSIE RODFIELD’S COUNT GLADSTONE
Owned by Jesse Sherwood, Chicago, IIl.

Modern Breaking 157

down that the quantity of meat can be reduced
during the close season and increased during
the working season to almost an all-meat diet
with satisfactory results. Unbolted wheat flour
is the most desirable of grains. Wheat flour,
rye or barley shorts, should be baked as bread
pones and allowed to cool and afterward bro-
ken up and softened with meat liquor, soup
or milk. Corn-meal is a popular food with
trainers, probably on account of its price, ease
in obtaining and preparing, but it is a fat

producer and not a muscle builder. No horse
trainer would feed it to a thoroughbred when
conditioning him for a race, and while some
trainers feel satisfied with the way their dogs
thrive on it, the animals would undoubtedly
be capable of greater muscular development
if fed on one of the other grains.

A very good way of preparing food for a
string of dogs is to purchase a few sheeps’
heads, a couple of beeves’ heads, or twenty
or thirty pounds of chucks or neck pieces
chopped fine. Boil the heads in a kettle until
they are thoroughly cooked, and the meat can
be scraped easily from the bones. This meat
then should be chopped or shredded into small
pieces and mixed with from three to six times
its weight of whole wheat flour, rye or corn-
meal, softened and worked up with the soup
liquor. To this may be added enough black

158 Modern Breaking

molasses to slightly sweeten the whole. Bake
thoroughly over a slow fire and afterward al-
low it to cool and dry, in which condition it
will keep indefinitely. When it is to be fed
break it up into pieces and feed dry, or soften
it with meat or vegetable soup. This food can
also be improved by adding vegetables, such as
carrots, turnips, beets, onions or cabbage, in the
proportion of one pound of vegetables to from
five to ten pounds of meat and grain.

The sportsman owning only one or two dogs,
who conditions his dogs on food prepared in
this way, and who carries with him a sufficient
quantity to provide for his dogs while on a
hunting trip, will be amply repaid by their
superior condition, and will never go back to
a makeshift diet of table scraps.

Spratt’s dog biscuits simplify the feeding
problem and the professional trainer or sports-
man who uses them as a staple diet can go on
an extended hunting trip or even to remote
sections of the country, where there are no
conveniences for preparing food, and feel sure
of his dog having a properly balanced: ration.
The ordinary dog biscuit contains a proportion
of meat sufficient only for a dog during the
close season. When hunting or training it 1s
advisable to use Spratt’s special biscuits pre-
pared with the proportion of meat doubled or
trebled. It is an ideal food for a hunting dog

Modern Breaking 159

and when everything is taken into considera-
tion far more economical than any makeshift.

The number of meals a dog should be given
daily is a matter frequently discussed. A light
meal in the morning (fed dry), such as two
or three dog biscuits or their equivalent, and
a full meal at night will be found satisfactory.
If the dog is to be worked in the morning omit
the morning meal entirely or let it consist of
something that will be promptly digested, such
as one or two raw eggs beaten up with cracker
crumbs. Under no circumstances should a
dog be worked directly after feeding a full
meal. The stomach, like all muscles and or-
gans, requires, during action, an increased
blood supply. During exercise the blood is
drawn from the stomach and other internal
organs to other parts of the body, and the food,
instead of being digested, lies as a heavy load
with. a liability to ferment and produce a
diarrhoea or dysentery that will incapitate the
animal. Table scraps and “pick ups,” if clean
and fresh, free from fat and grease (they sel-
dom are), may be tolerated for house or pet
dogs, but the sportsman who attempts to take
his dog through a hard season’s hunting on
such food is blind to his dog’s interests.

EXERCISE.

The young dog during his training season oT
during preparation for a field trial generally

zo Modern Breaking

gets all the exercise he needs, that should be
limited only by his powers of endurance and
the trainer’s judgment. At least one month
is required to get an old dog, which has had a
six months’ rest, more or less, into condition
to do good field work. During the close season
the dog has probably loafed around his owner’s
home, office or shop, been irregular about his
meals, and has become an expert beggar of
dainties. He is pounds overweight, with a
thick, woolly coat, short of breath, flabby of
muscle, and the pads of his feet are soft and
spongy. His bowels are irregular, generally
with a tendency to constipation, and a_ short
run leaves him exhausted and footsore.

He must be taken in hand and brought down
to a systematic routine of diet and exercise.
If necessary, chain him up so that his time is
accountable. If there is a tendency to consti-
pation, give him two ounces of castor oil, and
if necessary repeat it. The dog should be
placed on two meals a day of good, wholesome
food, such as has been described previously ;
the proportion of meat can be increased slightly.
Give him a short run in the morning before
feeding, and at some time during the day give
a mile or two of slow road work, following
a bicycle or buggy—and the distance you
travel with him should be gradually increased
until he is allowed to exercise while you are

Modern Breaking 161

traveling from three to six miles or even fur-
ther. On returning carefully brush his coat,
sponge the dirt from the corners of his eyes and
nostrils, and examine his feet for cuts and
bruises or obstructions between his toes. His
entire body and limbs then should be mas-
saged gently and hand rubbed; this will pre-
vent stiffness and soreness, and if he is given a
good meal, one of Dent’s Pepsinated Condition
Pills and a comfortable place in which to sleep
he will lie down contented and be as bright as
a new dollar the next morning. Dent’s Pep-
sinated Condition Pills are a wonderful tonic
for dogs that every owner should keep on
hand. They cure a variety ‘of ailments that
are classed under the one head of out of con-
dition. Their use insures the proper action
of the liver, kidneys and bowels. Dogs which
are hard to get into condition, those which are
weak, thin and unthrifty, constantly shedding
hair or having harsh, staring coats, weak, wa-
tery eyes, high-colored urine frequently passed
in dribbles, indigestion, coughing, gagging
and attempting to vomit, dreamy, disturbed
sleep, rumbling of the bowels and a general
air of neglect, should be given a full course
of treatment with these pills, as they come
very near being a veritable canine panacea.
MASSAGE.

Nothing in the entire range of hygienic

knowledge is so easy of application ard of such

162 Modern Breaking

prompt and lasting benefit as massage. The
medical profession is applying it more and
more, while among horsemen and athletes it is
as old as is their history.

During severe exercise the heart beats with
increased force and rapidity, and the blood is
forced through the large arteries into the smal-
ler capillaries which thread through the muscles
and give them their nourishment. A muscle
is made up of bundles of filamentous muscle
fibers that move more or less upon each other.
So long as the exercise continues up to the
point of exhaustion, the blood supply is forced
by the heart down through these small vessels,
and then is drawn back to the heart by the
vacuum created in the chest cavity by the al-
ternate expansion and contraction of the lungs
and the pressure upon the veins of the con-
stantly moving muscles surrounding them.
(The veins are fitted with small valves, so
that the pressure upon them will only permit
of the blood being sent one way and that toward
the heart.)

When exercise ceases the heart for a time
continues its rapidity of action and forces the
blood to the extremities, but as there is no
action of the muscles to keep up the return
circulation in the veins the blood stagnates in
the small capillaries surrounding the muscle
fibers and agglutinates them together; the

~~ a ee

Modern Breaking 163

limbs stock or swell and stiffness or soreness
results. Hand rubbing of the muscles and
limbs breaks down this agglutination, forces the
blood out of the smaller capillaries into the
larger veins, where it is distributed to the
stomach, liver, lungs, brain and other organs
that require it, allowing digestion to proceed
naturally, thereby resting and soothing the ani-
mal and leaving the muscles pliable and elastic.

There are different methods of massage.
Some conduct the movement toward the body,
Gumers. toward the extremities: All that is
necessary to derive satisfactory results is a
gentle kneading of the muscles to stimulate the
superficial circulation and prevent and_ break
down any agglutination of the muscular fibers.
Ten or fifteen minutes’ work on a dog after
he has had a hard day’s work, either in the
hunting field or after a field trial heat, is all
that is required for this treatment.

EXCESSIVE FATNESS.

Some dogs take on flesh so rapidly as to
almost constitute a disease. Bitches which are
not allowed to breed and aged animals are
prone to accumulation of fat about the lungs,
heart, liver,. kidneys and vital organs. Ex-
cessive fat brings on wheezing, asthmatic
coughing and panting at the slightest exertion.
It is impossible to get these fleshy subjects to

164 Modern Breaking

exercise to a proper extent, and to get them in
working condition is a serious task.
Treatment.—Give a brisk purgative two or
three times a week and give one of Dent’s
Blood Purifying and Cooling Pills three times
a day after feeding. Gradually decrease the
allowance of food and feed only stale bread, dog
biscuits or crackers, dry if they will eat them;
if not, moisten with a very little milk or thin
soup; do not feed grease, fat, potatoes or sweets
of any kind. As the food is decreased, slowly
increase the amount of exercise, and as the
animal gradually comes into form omit the
purgatives and feed raw lean beef, chopped fine
—gradually increasing the amount.

SORE - FEET,

The spongy, elastic pads which form the foot
covering require considerable attention.

Dogs out of condition and suffering from
lack of exercise, when put down for field work
on rough ground, short stubble or hard prairie,
frequently have these pads worn so thin or so
badly bruised after a few hours’ work as to be
unable to proceed, and it is not an uncommon
thing for inflammation to set in of such severity
that the feet swell, becoming hot and painful,
so that the dog cannot stand on them. Matter
forms between the layers of the soles of the
feet and the outer covering of the pads sloughs

Modern Breaking 165

off, thus at the beginning of the season com-
pletely incapacitating the dog for work.

Trouble of this kind can be avoided by grad-
ually hardening the feet by daily road runs.
Carefully examine the feet at night for cuts or
bruises, and if any be found dust them with
powdered boracic acid. Hound trainers fre-
quently resort to the following treatment for
hardening or protecting the feet of dogs which
are short of work: Take half a pint of the oil
of tar; pour a small quantity on a plank, shingle
or shallow dish; put the dog’s foot squarely
into this, then remove and place the foot in a
pan of Fuller’s earth. Do this with all four
feet, every other day, for a week, and once a
week during the hunting season, and there will
be little danger of sore feet.

All dogs come in at night from the hunting
field with the feet more or less sore, feverish
and inflamed. They should be washed carefully
in cold water, all dirt or obstructions between
the toes removed, and the foot placed for ten
minutes in a saturated solution of boracic acid.
This may be repeated each morning. The fol-
lowing lotion can be freely used: Tincture of
arnica, calendula and matico, of each one-half
ounce, tincture of opium one ounce, witch-hazel
and water in equal parts to make one pint.

When the soles slough off, as they do some-
times, trim off all ragged portions and poultice

166 Modern Breaking

the feet for twenty-four hours with linseed meal
so as to reduce the inflammation; then paint
tiie bottom of the feet three times a day with a
three per cent solution of the bichloride of
mercury ; nothing equals it as a grower of shoe
leather for dogs, and within forty-eight hours
the dog, which, to all appearances, appeared to
be laid up for a week or ten days, will be able to
walk around fairly comfortably.
LAMENESS.

Lameness may be ascribed to innumerable
causes. Thorns sometimes work up into the sole
or between the toes, or a sudden wrench may
affect the muscles of the back or a ligament of
the legs or shoulders. Field dogs are seriously
affected with rheumatism as the result of a
sudden chill caused from a cold rain or a damp
kennel. When the dog is called in the morning
and does not respond, and is not inclined to
move, or comes dragging himself out with his
back arched or forefeet advanced, and shrinks
from the hand, it can be set down that he has
rheumatism. He is sore all over; the fore-
quarters generally are affected, and even if the
animal is able to move, a stiffness is noticed in
the forelegs, particularly when moving down
hill, where the weight is thrown forward.

Even a slight attack of this kind should re-
ceive treatment. Give the patient. a warm
bath, in a warm room, rub dry and carefully

Modern Breaking 167

massage the limbs. Then take of aconite lini-
ment two ounces, of camphor liniment six
ounces, and rub well into the limbs for at least
half an hour—wipe off all the liniment that
remains on the dog’s coat—blanket warmly
and muzzle the dog so that he cannot lick the
‘iniment, as it is a powerful poison; give a
purgative of castor-oil or salts, and three times
a day give ten grains of salol and three grains
of quinine in either water or in a gelatin cap-
sule, until a cure is effected.

CLIPPING.

Some trainers resort to clipping the coats of
setters during the warm season. This leaves
the setter in the same condition as a pointer
so far as his coat is concerned, and while the
removal of the thick coat of the: setter is a
relief to him both as to heat and’ the accumu-
lation of burrs, it is an operation that must
be repeated yearly, and its effect upon the coat
is not the best. There can be no objection
raised to clipping off the feather on the tail and
legs, as during the course of the season it
would be worn off.

CTA PIPER reer e,

DON’T.
es begin training a young dog _ too
early or repeat his lessons too often.

Don't strike a puppy, neither should you scold
nor rave at him. :

Don’t strike an aged dog until you have
tried the effects of scolding.

Don’t let a dog go away from you after
whipping him without gaining his friendship,
but don’t pet or caress him too much.

Don’t beat a dog with a club; use a whip
and a small one at that.

Don’t kick.a dog or be a brute.

Don’t shout at a dog or attempt to bully him.

Don’t have spectators around when you are
training your dog.

Don't continue his lessons too 1ong or tire him
out.

Don’t talk too much to your dog or keep
nagging at him. :

Don’t confuse your dog with too many
orders.

Don’t try to show off your dog to friends;
he may disappoint you.

Don’t keep a dog chained to a kennel.

Modern Breaking 169

Don’t forget to feed a puppy little and often.

Don’t forget to treat a puppy for worms.

Don’t forget to take precautions against dis-
temper.

Don’t dose a dog with everybody’s cure-alls.

Don’t allow your dog to sleep on wet straw
or in a cold, damp, drafty kennel.

Don't forget to feed your dog yourself, nor
to frequently change his bedding and clean his
yard.

Don’t forget the importance of a variety in
his diet and a goodly proportion of vegetables.

Don’t believe that the more a dog eats the
better it will be for him. A light meal in the
morning and a full meal at night are what he
needs.

Don’t loan your dog.

Don’t feed your dog between meals.

Don’t forget that your dog is a sociable ani-
mal and needs companionship.

Don’t forget that a dog which is afraid of
you is easily confused.

Don't forget to retain your dog’s confidence
by rational actions.

Don’t forget that a six-month-old puppy is
lacking in experience in the world’s affairs.