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ROASTING, - - vi 4 69 BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60 FRYING, . . . . . . . , , . .' . . 61 SAUTEING, 62 BROILING, . ,. : ... 63 SAUCES, . . . -".. . v * ., .... .64 SOUPS, 76 FISH, . .V- .-. -* ': r - \ . - *V- ->' -* . 93 FISH SAUCES, . . . V *" * " *. HI CONTENTS. PAGE REMOVES, 117 LETTER NO. XII., 120 POULTRY, 143 FLANCS, 158 ENTREES, OR MADE DISHES, 158 LETTER NO. X11I., 178 LETTER NO. XIV., 181 DISHES WITH THE REMAINS Of LAMB, 184 EGGS, 216 GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, 219 ENTREES OF GAME, 220 ROASTS SECOND COURSE, 227 SAVORY DISHES . . . 234 LETTER NO. XV., 244 SHELL-FISH, 250 VEGETABLES, 253 OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268 JELLIES, 286 PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291 PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293 PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294 REMOVES SECOND COURSE, 296 SOUFFLE, 299 DESSERT, 305 LETTER NO. XVI., lb. COMPOTE, 307 COMPOTES Of FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, 310 SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, 321 LETTER NO. XVIL, 327 LETTER NO. XVIII., 332 BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, ib- LETTER NO. XIX., ,i ."'., 334 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, . ,....' -336 BILLS OF FARE, . ,. ..' * . ' 339 LETTER NO. XX. A NEW ALIMENT, . > "'' . 345 CARVING, . . ;: . ,. " .,*'' 346 LETTER NO. XXI. THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE, .... 348 INDEX, 351 INTRODUCTION. IN the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B and Mrs. L , and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains the motive of the work ; and, in a natural manner introduces the subject. ED. DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER FRIEND AND VISITOR. Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fort- night at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered some- what of an epicure, as is likewise my husband ; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accord- ingly. Mrs. B. Well, so must we ; and I assure you that, during the first few years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flat- tered me with the appellation of the " Model Housekeeper," and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, .whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any friends 1 INTRODUCTION. should come in by accident or on business, they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without ex- travagance, as my husband is well convinced ; for when we dine with any acquaintance of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management ; for though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time ; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food, a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy it. Mrs. L. Nothing more true ! Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable extravagance. " Extravagance !" exclaimed Mr. B., " if you have a few min- utes to spare, I will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to begin ; what sum should you sup- pose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider so extravagant ? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men em- ployed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which, of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or twice a-week." " Well, I do not know," answered our friend ; " but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my ex- penses for housekeeping are never less than per annum." " Less than what ?" exclaimed Mr. B. ; " why, my INTRODUCTION. dear friend, you must be mistaken ;" at the same time ringing the bell. " I wish I were, with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room ; " Jane," said Mr. B., " ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes ; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doc- tor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the time. " Well," said his friend, " there is a wife for you ; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen stairs." " Now !" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was . " No ! no ! that is impossible," replied the other. " But," said Mr B., " there it is in black and white." " Why, good heavens !" exclaimed he, " without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, " So I should imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days when we were on a visit to your house ; therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the ac- count for the closing year just made up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to 50 or 60 more." " So, so," replied the other, " that is an increase ;" " Let it be so," said Mr. B. ; " but you must remember that we are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we increase our comforts ; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for the greater part of it." Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain the matter ; but here comes your hus- band, who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets. INTRODUCTION. Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will allow me. Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam ; in my wife, without flattering her too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise, Mrs. B. retired, saying, " How foolish you talk, Richard") ; she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather profi- cient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering house- hold knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano ; that is the only secret, dear madam ; and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not tfnly make them more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity, by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position for a kingdom ; " Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we then parted. I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband ; for nothing, you are well aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves ; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping. I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway ; allow me to see you safe to the station ; you will not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up. About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was INTRODUCTION. seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible the economic management of Mrs. B. ; but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice : she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter : From Mrs. L to Mrs. B . Oatlands Cottage ; Jan. 1st, 1849. MY DEAR HORTENSE, Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so long au absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months ; but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly ; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watch- ing closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense : and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare. " Well, sir," I will suppose she said, " what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons ; we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) " A very excellent notion that, Cook ; nothing can be better than a good goose ;" was no doubt, my husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it. Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amal- gamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the sage and onions ; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple- sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascend- ing from the grating over the kitchen window. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite a reform in my little estab- lishment, and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recom- mended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education ; and, for my part, I have INTRODUCTION. come to the determination of adopting your system of management as closely as possible ; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice, it will be totally impossible ; therefore I beg to pro- pose (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you ; even how to make toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families and friends. Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your de- cision upon this important and domestic subject. Yours very sincerely, ELOISE. From Mrs. B , in reply. Bifrons Villa ; Jan. 3d, 1849. MY DEAR ELOISE, In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I must say, is very original, and ntay, as you observe, prove useful ; but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only ? why not go through the different meals of the day ? that is, after breakfast, the luncheon ; then the nursery-dinner at One ; and here it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids ; even our servants' dinners and teas ; then the early din- ner at two or three for people in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and even suppers for a small ball or evening party ; but all on a moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere. To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first receipt, How to make Toast. BREAKFASTS. WHEN we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of whom breakfasted together, the three young men in the shop, Mr. B , and myself. The cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely ; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time, the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half- penny upon any one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness. Such was always my plan when in business ; for you must know as well as myself, it is - not only the expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty. Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the mate- rials (which I always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of every description of articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table. BREAKFASTS. FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS. Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles. Every preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care, and expe- rience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables, there are none more common than poor toast. ED. 1. Toast. Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness (I gen- erally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast, being lon- ger in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste the bread) ; contrive to have rather a clear fire ; place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another minute, by which time the bread will be thor- oughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting "the other side in the same manner ; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole ; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you will find a great im- provement upon the old system, as often in cutting through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish. N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality of the BREAKFASTS. 9 toast ; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter. All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier. Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them, I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their ever being eaten after. 2. Dry Toast. Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve ; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one piece resting against another ; any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating. 3. To toast Muffins (for Receipt, see No. 6.) Just open, half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the cen- tre, with a knife, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when again turn it to toast the other side ; when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer of but- ter on each side, close them together ; lay them upon a plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately, and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate; when well prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a trifling expense. 4. To toast Crumpets. Crumpets stand lower in the gen- eral estimation of the public, probably from not being so dis- tingue, and having the misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins ; but, for all that, the poor ought never to be for- gotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though they are not 1* 10 BREAKFASTS. bad after having been made three or four days ; toast them by- warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather soft butter lightly upon each side ; cut in halves with a sharp knife, and serve ; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish ; some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick. 5. To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread. Put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make a hole in the cen- tre, in which put three parts of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place for another hour ; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the breakfast-table. 6. To make Muffins. Mix a quart of warm water in which you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours, then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them remain in a warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot ; have a round piece of iron ; place on the fire to get hot ; set the muffins upon it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set, when they are done ; they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter. BREAKFASTS. 11 7. To make Crumpets. Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter, with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours longer ; have the muffin- stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops, the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and hi about five minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked. 8. Rusks. Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water ; mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, oc- casionally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a mod- erate oven ; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven, when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for use. 9. Tops and Bottoms. Make a dough exactly as described in the last, but using only half the butter ; have a deep- edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well floured ; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet ; put them in a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven ; when cold, divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown in the oven as directed for rusks. 12 BREAKFASTS. 10. Buns. Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to a board ; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart ; moisten the tops with milk ; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them to crack, and bake them in a hot oven. 11. Brioche Rolls. Put four pounds of flour upon a dres- ser, one pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have dissolved an ounce of German yeast ; mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, which roll up into a ball : cut an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light, then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste, which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into small rolls; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would be sufficient ; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them upon very especial occasions. 12. How to choose Eggs. New-laid eggs should not be used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then obtain their delicate flavor ; BREAKFASTS. 13 that which is termed milk in eggs being, according to my opin- ion, very insipid ; but that entirely depends upon fancy. Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decom- position, it is very important that every person should know how to detect them (especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast : but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus with your hand ; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they are veiy doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each egg smelt previous to using ; if, however, in looking at them, you see no transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away ; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a can- dle ; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and they have a brilliant light yellow tint ; in the spring of the year, it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh. 13. Eggs for Breakfast, plain boiled. Put about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire ; when boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking regularly : three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice. 14. Eggs au Beurre : a new method. Let the eggs boil six minutes instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they will remain -quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot. Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible. 14 BREAKFASTS. 15. To boil Eggs hard. Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool : take off their shells, and use them when required. Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled. 16. Poached Eggs. Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes ; have rather a thin piece of toast, as de- scribed (No. l), upon a dish, take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too many together ; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkward- ness in poaching. Again, the toast upon which they are served may be but- tered either with plain or maitre d'hotel butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the same with the ad- dition of a little maitre d'hotel butter poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy butter instead of the other ; thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxu- ries at a trifling expense. 17. Toast and Eggs. Break three eggs into a small stew- pan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance ; have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately. 18. Eggs sur le Plat. Lightly butter a small oval dish, BREAKFASTS. 15 upon which break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven, where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard, and serve hot ; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten minutes ; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most ex- cellent dish. 19. Omelettes may also be served for breakfast with great advantage, being very relishing, especially the omelettes aux fines herbes, au lard, and aux champignons, but as they are considered to belong to the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts. 20. Herring Toast Sandwich. Choose a bloater for this purpose not too dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back ; lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water over ; let them soak five minutes, when lay them upon a cloth to dry ; then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron ; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other : serve very hot. 21. Toast and Eggs with Herring. Prepare your toast and eggs as directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very good. Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold with- out splitting them ; they are very delicious ; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the fire. 22. Fish for Breakfast, Bloated Herrings. They require to be freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpala- 16 BREAKFASTS. table ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth ; pass the point of a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a quarter of an inch in depth ; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire ; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them occasionally ; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and place half a small pat of butter in each ; again close them : cooked this way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain ; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.) 23. Dried Haddock. A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half done, especially the larger ones ; the bet- ter plan is to cut them in halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first ; the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly ; when done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish. Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course would take rather more time in cooking. 24. Whitings. Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast : their method is, to obtain the fish as fresh as possi- ble, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there BREAKFASTS. 17 is a current of air ; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slov fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry if preferable. 25. Slips or Small Soles. When cleaned, season them with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or accord- ing to the size ; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish could be tolerated for breakfast. 26. Sprats when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire ; when about half done, turn them ; when done (which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on), serve dry in a veiy hot dish. 27. Meat for Breakfast, Sheep's Kidneys. Procure as many as you may require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their appearance ; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down to the root, but not to separate them ; then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part ; season them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron (the inside downwards), over a sharp fire ; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done ; then take them off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. In open- ing them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked. 28. Kidneys on Toast. Prepare tho kidneys precisely as in 18 BREAKFASTS. the last, but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly ; lay the kidneys upon it ; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve. 29. Kidney bread-crumbed, a la Maitre d 1 Hotel. Prepare the kidneys as before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork ; season the kid- neys with a little salt and pepper, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put them upon the grid- iron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little maitre d'hdtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve immediately upon a very hot dish ; by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing ; dressed this way they may also be served upon toast. 30. Sauted Kidneys. Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise ; and when the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt ; set the pan on a moderate fire three minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done ; when have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be taken in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt. Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being sauted ; this mate- rially changes the flavor, and meets the approbation of many. For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table. 31. Bacon and Ham, how to choose both Jit for broiling. Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps eat rank : nothing requires more care than broiling. BREAKFASTS. 19 Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron ; put them over the fire ; it will take perhaps fiv^ minutes, if the fire is good, and more, of course, if slow, but in that short space of time turn them three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder ; it will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c., &c. To saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan ; set it on the fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very often, and serve it on very thin toast. 32. Ham and Eggs. While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk. 33. Bacon. The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred ; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire, turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes ; this will be all the cooking required : serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish color : if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times, and saute as usual, it will make it softer and less salt : serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. 34. Sausages. Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast. By all means, never use them, except you are con- fident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through ; they keep good two or three 20 BREAKFASTS. days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in winter (with care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way, see future letter. 35. Sausages, how to cook them. Prick them with a pin all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, turn three or four times, by doing which you will have them a very nice yellow color ; dish them, and serve them very hot. 36. Sauted Sausages. If your fire smokes, it is preferable to saute them ; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages ; after you have pricked them as before mentioned, saute gently, a few minutes will do them, turn them often ; in many in- stances a thin slice of bread sauted in the fat they have pro- duced is a great improvement ; save the fat, as it is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them, throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being broiled or sauted ; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having extracted the oil from the skin ; they may also be fried in the frying-pan. 37. Black Puddings, broiled. Make about six or eight in- cisions through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each side of the pudding ; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, on rather a brisk fire, turn it four times in that space of time, and serve it broiling hot. I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend it to a delicate stomach. ON COFFEE. Coffee, which has now come so generally into use, originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time im- BREAKFASTS. 21 memorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653 ; as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you the ac- count of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, who made his coffee ; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now a scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers peti- tioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman. Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua's partner ; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the coun- try, and Bowman, by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. Bowman's apprentices were first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from whose wife I had this account." Having examined the renter churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica Coffee-House; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667. It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first qual- ity of that delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea. I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who in- vited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party d PAnglaise, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arri- val of the guests, I was walking upon the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen- window, smelling most powerfully of tea : my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the deli- cious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. (See Pot-au-Feu.) " My dear girl," said I (in French), " what process do you call that of making tea ? it never ought to be boiled." " I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, " master and mistress like it well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux)." " You are decidedly wrong," said I, " and I shall be most happy to show you the way we make it in England." " Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she ; " I used to make it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired, making a most comical grimace, to refrain from laugliing at her still more ridicu- lous fashion. You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve years ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by 22 BREAKFASTS. the continual traffic of the English through that part of the country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage, which should be made as follows : Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor) ; grind it at home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality ; if ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot through, but not in the least burnt ; should the fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until hot (which would not be more than two min- utes), when pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of the tire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stew- pan, pour the coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner. To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is : 38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, when pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over closely for five minutes, when pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.* * This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its appearance, it tasted anything but palata- ble ; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable bell vio- lently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it ; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, though unpleasant, made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup ; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh ac- quaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the stearaing-hot refreshment as myself, who had patronized the steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new travelling friends, who said, " I never travel at night without being provided with a spirited companion ;" and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta- BREAKFASTS. 23 The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required ; the cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee and water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly- bag. 39. Coffee, French fashion. To a pint of coffee, made as before directed, add a pint of boiling inilk, warm both together until nearly boiling, and serve. The French never use it any other way for breakfast. 40. White Coffee, a new style. Put two ounces of un- ground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every half-minute ; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke arising from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well, and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add half a pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar- candy or crystallized sugar ; it is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an agreeable change ; but if by neglect you let the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it ; it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily hi a mortar if required. percha goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie I had ever tasted, which produced -on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve the do- mestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to simplify the present method of making coffee ; and should I be successful in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently, did not meet with the "spirited" friend 1 did, vowing they would never take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note : " MY DEAR SIR, -I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never re- collect having tasted better. Yours, &c. W. C." I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, but to keep the cafetiere in a bain-marie, which would avoid all the above inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat. 24 BREAKFASTS. 41. Coffee, made with a filter. To make a quart ; first put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it, which again pour away, then put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, upon which put the presser lightly, and the grating, pour over half a pint of boiling water, let it drain three or four minutes, then pour over a pint and a half more boiling water ; when well passed through, pour it into a clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum arises, but not boiling ; pour it again through the filter, and when well drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a little cream, separately. 42. Another way, more economical. Proceed as in the last, but draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after which pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee- grounds, which, when drained through, reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee. TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666 : it has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is indi- genous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness, and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic ; but when old it has a different effect,* and in its native country is never partaken of until a year old, and not then, unless exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in particular, as that depends on taste ; but this I advise, that when you have a kind to your liking, to keep to it. And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to make it ; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a * Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time, and which could not be done wi'hout employing the night as well as ihe day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon-juice in i r , as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning. BREAKFASTS. 25 short time ago by accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room ; rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she stood having upset : twenty minutes at least had elapsed be- fore I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular hurry for), when I found that the servant, tliinking there was water in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the oven, which was rather hot ; when she brought it to me, I was rather annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea would not require so long to draw ; I then filled the teapot with boiling water, and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not al- ways hot : it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close of course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who actually laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, " We cannot teach anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do for us." Now what could you say to such people ? why nothing, but let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know have better sense ; proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of an hour be- fore ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready. CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and it retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and did not come into use in England until much later ; and we find that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,000 Ibs. weight of it ; at the present day there was, in 1848, 410,000 Ibs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts : the tree grows to only a few feet in height. In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is al- most as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which, to many, are unpleasant. 43. Chocolate. Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into a stew or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with the spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees ; serve very hot, with sugar separate. 44. Chocolate made in the Italian method. Procure a regu- lar chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes through the lid, one might be procured at any brazier's, put hi 2 26 BREAKFASTS. two ounces of chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the lid, with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve. 45. Cocoa. Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered co- coa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved, when it is ready to serve ; sugar separately. LETTER No. III. Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849. DEAR HORTENSE, I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series, thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which references can be easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly found. But one tiling I remember when at your house was, that when the remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side table, and let any one help themselves from it there ; your idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat be- fore their eyes almost immediately after rising from their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as follows : First the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs,