MODERN PRACTICA; BAKING THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING :opyright, 1921, by William H. Brooks. MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING BY WILLIAM H. BROOKS PRICE $5.00 PALO ALTO WILLIS L. HALL, PUBLISHER 1921 WILLIAM H. BROOKS International Cake Expert, Author of the Pastry Chef and Contributor to the Leading Trade Journals. CONTENTS Page Chapter 1 Bread and Rolls 15 White Bread No. 1 White Bread No. 2 White Bread No. 3 white Bread No. 4 White Bread No. 5 White Bread No. 6 Pan Rolls Genuine Whole Wheat or Gra- ham Bread Raisin Bread Fruit Nut Bread. Chapter 2 Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake 21 Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake No. 1 Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake No. 2 Rolled in Coffee Cake or Dan- ish Pastry Sweet Dough or Coffee Cake Coffee Goods and Sweet Dough Apple, Peach, Plum Cake, Etc. Apricot Cake Walnut Rolls Butter Scotch Buns Apricot Jelly Cheese Cake Streuhsel Buns Nut Rolls Poppy Seed Strudel Almond Flaked Tea Rings Filling for Almond Flaked Tea Rings Zwie- back Fancy Zwieback Almond Zwieback. Chapter 3 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes and Crullers 27 Special Doughnuts Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crul- lers No. 1 Bag Doughnuts Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 3 New York Formula for Machine Doughnuts No. 4 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 5 Dough- nuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 6. Chapter 4 Brioche 29 Unfermented Brioche. Chapter 5 Cakes for Everyday Sale 31 Tea Biscuits Jelly Roll No. 1 Jelly Roll No. 2 Lady Fingers No. 1 Lady Fingers No. 2 Angel Food Crullers. Chapter 6 Pies - 33 Pie Fillings Custard Filling for Custard Pies Lemon Pie Filling Pumpkin Pie Filling Chocolate Cream Pies Covering for Meringue for Lemon and Chocolate Cream Pies Pumpkin Pie No. 2 Open Fruit Tarts. Chapter 7 Cookies 35 Premier Cookies Queen Cookies Honey Cookies Raisin Cookies Ginger Cookies White Sugar Cookies Oatmeal Cookies Fancy Butter Cookies Scotch Perkins Ginger Nuts Crisp Fancies Spice Drops Lemon Cookies Cocoanut Cookies Angel Cookies Jelly Rings Italian Biscuits Rice Wafers Fruit Wafers. Chapter 8 Puff Pastry - 41 Three-quarter Paste Rolled in Paste for Pies Savory Pastries Vol-au-Vent Cheese Straws Meat Patties, Etc. Sweet Pastries and Almond Tarts French Straws Cherry and Jelly Tartlets Apple Puffs Fruit Pastry Almond Pastries Diamond Chips Spanish Puffs. CONTEXTS Page Chapter 9 Chou Pastry 47 Chou Pastry No. 1 Chou Pastry No. 2 Chou Pastry No. 3 Rich Cream Filling for Eclairs, Etc. Chou a la Creme Pralinee Cream Buns French Crullers Fe- dora Pastries Bordeaux Pastries Crescents Lemon Cream Buns Gateau St. Honore Bouchees, Etc. Chapter 10 Meringue Goods 53 Meringue Shells Meringue Mushrooms Maraschino Meringues Maraschino Birds Coffee Meringue Co- coanut Meringue Meringue Kisses Meringue Pas- tries Cherry Meringue. Chapter 11 High Grade Layer Cakes 57 Almond Layers Chocolate Layers Ginger Layers Yellow Layers Devil's Food White Layers Fruit Layers Butter Sponge Layers Chocolate Walnut Layers Lemon Layers Chocolate Ginger Layers Pecan Layers Cherry Layers Punch Layers Lady Baltimore Layers Premier Layers Orange Co- coanut Cakes Banana Tarts Pineapple Snow Cake. Chapter 12 Cream Goods 63 Sponge Casing for Charlotte Russe Plain Whipped Cream Charlotte Russe Double Charlottes Char- lottes a la Cardinal Large Charlottes Punch Cream Buns Savarins Savarin Mixture Banana Tarts Cream Baskets Pineapple Tarts Matinee Creams Opera Pastries Boston Cream Pies Snowballs Orange Creams Whipped Cream Torte Hazelnut Cream Torte Pastry Charlottes. Chapter 13 Loaf Cakes - 69 Van Dusen Cakes White Van Dusen Dorothy Cakes Yellow Florence Cakes Dundee Cakes English Ma- deira Cakes Ideal Ginger Cakes Small Pound Cakes Vanilla Fig Cake Orient Cake Lemon Sandwich Loaf Sponge. Chapter 14 Pound Cake - T.\ Plain Pound Cake Genoa Cake Cherry Genoa Cake Ginger Pound Cake Caraway Seed Pound Cake Rich Fruit Pound Cake Rice Pound Cake (Medium Priced) Light Pound Cake White Pound Cake Mar- ble Pound Cake Fleur de Lys Cake Small Pound Cakes. Chapter 15 French Pastries 79 Petits Choux Light Cake Base Custard Cream Ap- ple Cream Butter Cream. Chapter 16 Individual Fancy Cakes 83 Desmondonas Orange Crescents Cream Pyramids Apricotines Vanilla Pastries Timbre Cakes Fruit Pyramids Chocolate Bars Checkers Fedora Cakes Strawberry Petits Fours Strawberry Mascots Mocha Slices Chocolate Slices Cocoanut Pyramids Apples and Pears Petits Beurres Chocolate Almond Creams Orange Filling Maraschino Fingers Rose Tartlets Viennese Pastries Kopje Tartlets Strawberry But- ter Cakes Neapolitan Creams Pineapple Creams Crumb Tartlets. CONTEXTS Page Chapter 17 Almond Goods 97 Petits Fours Walnut Pyramids Chocolate Maca- roons Hazelnut Macaroons Congress Macaroons Dutch Macaroons Plain Macaroons Royal Almond Macaroons Chocolate Almond Bars Cinnamon Almond Sticks Almond Batons Almond Boats Mac- aroon Shortbread Almond Tarts Almond Mascots Lorange Pistachio Maraschino Bateaux Maraschino Petits Fours Walnut Biscuits Pistachio Biscuits Chemin de Fer Bars Raspberry Almond Cuts Gau- fres Biscuits Picnola Macaroons. Chapter 18 Langues des Chats 109 Langues des Chats (Cats' Tongues) Gateau a la Su preme. Chapter 19 Bonnes Bouchees 111 Hazelnut Bouchees Almond Bouchees Bouchees with Whipped Cream Filling Vanilla Cream Bouchees Chapter 20 Dubosh Torte - - - - - 113 Dubosh Torte No. 1 Dubosh Torte No. 2 Hazelnut Slices. Chapter 21 Small Cakes to Retail at 40c to $2 a Pound 115 Lemon Ice Biscuits Orange Ice Biscuits Fleur de Orange Biscuits Pommes de Terre Inverness But- tons Lemon Wafers Walnut Molasses Wafers Pa- risian Puffs Hermits Cocoanut and Almond Drops Vanilla Wafers. Chapter 22 Wedding Cakes - 119 White Cake No. 1 White Cake No. 2 English Wed- ding Cake Individual Wedding Cakes. Chapter 23 English Plum Pudding - 127 Plum Pudding No. 1 Plum Pudding No. 2 Mince- meat. Chapter 24 Layer Cake Fillings - 129 Punch Filling Apricot, Raspberry and Orange Filling Marshmallow Filling Cherry Filling Special Lem- on Fillings for Lemon Layers Chocolate Walnut Fill- ing Apple Filling Walnut Filling. Chapter 25 Icings 131 Fondant and Its Uses Hot Water Icing Royal Icing. Chapter 26 Butter Creams - 133 Butter Cream No. 1 Butter Cream No. 2 Butter Cream No. 3. Chapter 27 Fig Products - 135 Fig Bread Whole Wheat Fig Bread Fig Bars Oat- meal Fig Cookies Chocolate Fig Layer Cake Fig Bran Cookies Molasses Fig Drops Fig Boston Brown Bread. PREFACE It is with considerable pleasure that I present this revised peace- lime edition of Modern Practical Baking and sincerely hope that it will be as well received as were the preceding editions of this work. Since the last edition was published a vast change has taken place in the retail bakery. Modern manufacturing and merchandising methods have been applied in the form of traveling reel ovens and spotless stores and this old and honorable trade has been raised to a position of importance undreamed of a few years ago. In developing it has at- tracted the best type of merchant, who in turn has applied more sys- tematic methods than those that have prevailed hitherto. In line with this development the so-called quality standards have been raised and new ideas and formulas are now in use. In this book particular attention has been paid to formulas appli- cable to this new development in our industry and this revised edition contains formulas that have made many of these stores justly famous. French pastry stores have gained in popularity in recent years and Danish pastry is almost as equally well known. Both branches have been fully covered in this book. Another new departure is the inclusion of several chapters on bread and doughnuts. The bread formulas are on a par with the other formulas contained in this book as to quality. The doughnut formulas are also the best of their kind. As in previous editions, a free service is offered any purchaser of this book in so far as the adjustment of any formula is required to conform to local climatic conditions, or raw materials. WILLIAM H. BROOKS. CHAPTER 1 BREAD AND ROLLS It is not my intention to deal with the technical phases of the fol- lowing formulas, but to offer to the trade a number of successful, thoroughly tested and well balanced formulas which have won and held trade in hundreds of successful retail stores throughout the coun- try. It has always been my contention that the proper place for testing- flour and other raw materials is in a properly equipped laboratory where every facility is available for securing accurate results. It entails too much labor on the part of the retail baker to attempt this work in addition to operating his business. Laboratory facilities for the testing of flour are available in any city of importance, where tests are made at a very moderate charge. Various yeast concerns, trade journals, etc., also offer service in this respect, so why not concentrate on the manufacturing and merchandising of the baked goods rather than upon the technical phase of the business? However, usually the practical baker is able to determine to his own satisfaction by "feel- ing" the flour its tendency to hardness or softness as the case may be, sufficiently well in any case to govern his decision as to its suitability for the various types of goods. This, in addition to a practical baking test, which after all is the test most worth while, should be sufficient evidence to determine its value in his shop. The proper thing for any retail baker to do is to purchase a small quantity of flour of any brand that is new to his shop and subject it to a careful baking test before purchasing in quantities. Any mill with confidence in its product will usually agree to shipments of one or two barrels, for the purpose of determining its value. If satisfied stick to this brand, provided the quality is maintained. It is well to remember that the baker ' is > of ten tempted to change his flour and that first order prices and prices foE subsequent orders are not always consistent, discounting the fact that meanwhile prices may have been raised or lowered, as the ease may be- Quality and service generally go together and are not usually secured at the lowest price. Results I favor have always been obtained through the use of hard spring wheat flour in the proportion of 60 per cent to 40 per cent of rich soft winter wheat. In simple terms, the hard wheat for volume and the soft winter for color and flavor and to "break" the toughness of crumb which results from the use of hard wheat flour. Technically, or from the bakery chemist's findings with whose viewpoint I am very familiar, some of my formulas may be scientifi- cally wrong in some small particular, but I have always sought results and in seeking have not traveled the well beaten path familiar to so many, and I am sure that one or more of the many formulas submitted 16 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING will fit your shop and guarantee the results which good merchandise most surely brings. The following formula is given first place, as the use of this form- ula in one of a number of retail stores I operated some years ago re- sulted in the most phenomenal sales of bread I have ever seen during my experience in the trade. WHITE BREAD No. 1 Straight Dough 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 10 pounds mashed potatoes, 2y 2 pounds malt extract, 4 pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast, 4 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard. 6 gallons fresh whole milk, 62 pounds water (7% gallons). Temperature of water 78 degrees ; shop temperature 80 degrees. Method Place milk, water and mashed potatoes in machine, re- serving about 10 pounds of water to be divided between two pails for dissolving salt and yeast. Add salt solution and sugar, mix thoroughly with flour. Run machine for two minutes. Add malt and yeast. Run for five minutes more, then add shortening. Complete mixing. Total time of the mixing approximating eighteen minutes. Time first punch, 214 hours; time second punch, 30 minutes; 5 minutes and take to the bench. Bake in even temperature 425 to 450 degrees. On no account bake in too hot an oven. WHITE BREAD No. 2 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 10 pounds condensed milk (sweetened), 4 pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast. 2*4 pounds malt extract, 2 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard, 108 pounds water. Method As for white bread No. 1. WHITE BREAD No. 3 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 2y 4 pounds buttermilk powder, 3% pounds salt, 1 pound malt extract, 5 pounds sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds yeast, 116 pounds water. Method Place salt, water, sugar and buttermilk in mixer. Place yeast in pail with 10 pounds of water reserved for same and mix thoroughly. Start mixer and add flour. When operating 2 minutes add malt and yeast. Run 5 minutes, then add shortening. Mixing time approximately 18 minutes. Time first punch 2y 2 hours (approxi- mately) ; time second punch 1 hour; 5 minutes then take to bench. WHITE BRE.VD No. 4 Special Home-made Loaf 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 8 pounds sugar, 8 pounds pure lard, 3 l / 2 pounds yeast, y 2 pounds salt, 116 pounds water. Temperature of shop 80 degrees. Temperature of water 78 degrees. Method Place water in machine, add sugar and salt, then flour. Run mixing for 2 minutes, add yeast thoroughly dissolved in small amount of water. Lastly add shortening 3 minutes before completion of mixing. Run mixer 18 minutes from start to finish. Time first punch, 2 hours ; time second punch, 35 minutes ; 15 minutes then take to bench. BREAD AND ROLLS 17 WHITE BREAD No. 5 Fast Dough Flour, one-half hard winter wheat and one-half hard spring wheat, 100 pounds; water, 54 pounds (approximately) ; salt, 1% pounds ; yeast, 3 pounds ; sugar, 2 pounds ; malt extract, 1 pound ; milk (condensed) 4 pounds; shortening, 3 pounds. Temperature when leav- ing mixer, 78 degrees F. Fermentation First rising, 40 minutes ; second rising, 20 minutes ; to the bench in 10 minutes. The temperature of the proof box 85 de- grees F. The temperature of the oven should be approximately 500 degrees F. You will get better results by baking this bread in a hot oven. Give the loaves a short proof in the pans. You will be able to get just as much volume if you depend upon the spring in the oven. By getting your volume in the oven you will get a loaf of bread having a good colored crust, velvet texture and a good colored crumb. WHITE BREAD No. 6 Special Dough for Snowflake Biscuits and any form of Pan Rolls 100 pounds spring wheat high patent flour, 1 pound malt extract, 2*4 pounds salt, 4 pounds yeast, 3 pounds condensed milk, 10 pounds pure lard, 2!/2 pounds potato flour or mashed potatoes, 63 pounds water. Temperature of room, 80 degrees. Temperature of water, 80 degrees. Allow to come up full first time. Well up second time. Ten minutes and take to bench. Work off fast on the bench. This will give a full-flavored, very light roll, and will stand a thorough baking in the oven. It is particularly suitable for use with small fluted open pans for baking in revolving oven, as it replaces to a great extent the hard German or French roll of the hearth type oven. PAN ROLLS Pan rolls or so-called yeast raised biscuits or biscuit bread, cres- cents, etc., in fact, any form of roll with a moderately hard crust can be made from the foregoing formulas. In the case of crescents or twists it is necessary to wash them before baking with a "glaze" made of eggs and milk. A corn starch glaze is also very effective, and is made as follows: 2 ounces corn starch, 1 quart water, 14 ounce salt. Bring to a boil. Wash over rolls one minute before taking from oven. A sponge dough is more suitable for Parker House rolls, although a very delicious roll can be produced by adding 1 egg and 2 ounces of additional shortening to each 10 pounds of dough of any of the fore- going bread formulas. GENUINE WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD The manufacture and sale of genuine whole wheat bread presents wonderful possibilities to the man capable of realizing the value of propaganda that has been distributed through such well-known advo- cates of its use as Dr. Wiley and others. Millers look upon it with disfavor as its increased use would eliminate the sale of by-products, such as bran and middlings, for which they usually find a ready and profitable market. Possibly there is not a single mill that has suffi- cient demand or has attempted to create big enough demand to justify it in arranging its machines for manufacture on a large scale. Never- 18 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING theless, the demand is always present, as was amply demonstrated by me some years ago when I ran a mill exclusively on a flour of this type and disposed of it through the medium of stores I was operating at that time. Take all Dakota, Kansas, or any hard wheat flour. The whole of the wheat berry is milled as for ordinary flour. After the bran separa- tion has been made this is run through the rollers several times so that it is considerably finer than usual. The glutenous qualities of the hard wheat flour have sufficient "carrying" power to offset the non-gluten- ous qualities of the bran and "middlings," the resultant loaf having a fair volume and texture. The re-milling of the bran flakes also re- lieves the extremely porous nature which is so prevalent in the aver- age Graham loaf or whole wheat loaf of bread. The trouble in the past has been as above stated that the millers have made no attempt to cater to this business. The average Graham flour is the "offal bin" of the mill and contains too much low grade flour in the milling of the high patents to ever permit its use as a straight flour. Therefore the baker has been compelled to blend it with hard wheat flours, "dope" it with molasses and other agents until it resembles anything but a whole wheat flour and cannot be conscien- tiously sold as such. Instead of "doping" it with molasses an ideal flour should contain the elements in a pure form to obtain the golden brown crumb so much desired. For instance, 75 per cent Dakota wheat, 25 per cent Northern Turkey red wheat. If the baker cannot induce his miller to furnish a flour of this type, wheats of this kind are available and with the aid of an inex- pensive mill (I think this costs about $150 to $200 at the present time) he can mill his own flour very inexpensively and have all the advan- tages of exclusiveness of product. An ideal whole wheat bread is made as follows : 100 pounds whole wheat flour, 2 pounds salt, 11/2 pounds malt extract, 3 pounds brown sugar, l 1 /^ pounds yeast, 56 pounds water. Temperature of room, 80 degrees ; temperature of water, 78 degrees. Time for mixins 1 of dough to first punch, approximately 2 hours. Allow to stand 30 minutes and take to bench. MaVe up Bake in covered sandwich pans, or special fluted pans to give it close grain. Give medium short proof before baking. Fig, whole wheat, bran and raisin whole wheat bread can be made by adding 30 to 40 pounds of figs and raisins to the above. Blended figs and raisins are a nice combination. RAISIN BREAD A special raisin bread (exceptionally fine), n made as follows: 100 pounds hard wheat flour, 10 pounds condensed milk, 7 pounds pure lard, 5 pounds sugar, 50 pounds Sun-Made seeded raisins (medium ?i7e), 1/3 ounce almond flavoring extract, I 1 /? pounds salt, 55 pounds water, 3 pounds yeast. Temperature of room, 80 degrees ; temperature of water, 90 degrees. Method Separate the raisins by sprinkling with about 1 quart of warm water and allowing to stand over night, or do this a few hours previous to mixing the dough. This is best accomplished by placing the raisins in a wooden tub, sprinkling with water, then turning over BREAD AND ROLLS 1 occasionally with a large wooden spatula. A small proportion of small, seedless raisins in place of the seeded raisins is sometimes desirable, but do not overlook the fact that the large raisins possess the flavor desired and are usually much cheaper. Place water, condensed milk, flavoring extract, salt and sugar in the machine. Add flour and start to mix. After two minutes add yeast dissolved in water. About two or three minutes b< fore completion of mixing add melted lard and raisins. Thoroughly incorporate the raisins without over-mixing, and thereby breaking up the raisins unnecessarily. The dough should be on the soft side so that the raisins are not broken. It should also be kept warm, as the dough will otherwise stiffen up considerably, and if cool, it will retard fermentation to a great extent on account of the quantity of raisins in the mix. Keep the dough on the young side. Once up ' ' full ' ' is sufficient, then 25 to 30 minutes and then to the bench. Scale into pieces 14 to 20 ounces (no larger) and use long, narrow pans. Give medium proof and bake in oven 400 to 425 degrees. FRUIT NUT BREAD Take one-half of the preceding raisin bread formula. At the first knockdown incorporate 10 pounds whole almonds, 3 pounds walnuts, 2 pounds orange peel, 1 ounce nutme 01 . Allow to prove in the trough 35 to 40 minutes, then scale into pieces 2~y 2 pounds in weight when put on the bench allow to prove, then place in l l / 2 pound sandwich bread pans. Give good proof and bake in oven about 375 degrees. If baked in revolving oven, see that pans are protected on bottom, and if on shelf oven double pan. This makes a very delicious nut loaf. Coffee Wreath Poppy Seed Strudel Apple Slices CHAPTER 2. DANISH PASTRY AND COFFEE CAKE A large variety of coffee cakes are prepared from this dough. Pretzels, butter horns, snails, wreath cakes, and all the various shapes usually made from French pastry dough can be applied to coffee cake of this class. Quite a good deal of the sale success depends upon the various fillings used. These should be tasty and used in sufficient quantity so that the flavor permeates all of the dough. It is very essential that the dough should be kept as cool as pos- sible after the shortening has been rolled in, so that the layers of dough are separated by very thin layers of shortening. If the dough is at all warm, it has a tendency to oil the dough and the efficiency of the shortening as a dividing and raising medium is partially destroyed. Nuts of various kinds used in fairly liberal proportions add to the attractiveness of this style of coffee cake. Cream fillings can also be used to advantage both as a filler and for decorative purposes. This dough is improved by using additional shortening, but should not exceed 2^ pounds to the one quart of liquid. Almond paste used in the proportion of one-half pound to the quart of liquid improves the flavoring and eating qualities of this cof- fee cake. Almond paste fillings are also very popular, and can be made of any richness desired, by using almond paste and sugar as a base and w r orking in cake or cookie crumbs, which will bring it down to any degree of quality. A moderately rich filling would be composed of the following: 6 pounds cake crumbs, 1 pound almond paste, sugar to taste, 1 pound orange and lemon peel chopped very fine, 1 pound chopped peanuts, the grating of six lemons, 1 ounce cinnamon, ^ ounce allspice, 1 ounce salt. This formula can be used as the base for a number of fillings. DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 1 One quart milk (ice cold), 8 ounces yeast, 8 ounces sugar, 4 eggs. Sufficient strong flour to make a fairly free dough. Method Roll this out as for French pastry, spread over two- thirds surface 1 pound of firm shortening and 1 pound butter, roll out twice, allow to rest for about 15 minutes then roll out twice more, cut- ting into various coffee cake forms and using the following fillings : Vanilla Cream 1 quart milk, 5 eggs, 8 ounces sugar, 4 ounces flour, vanilla flavoring. This is a cooked cream. The milk is first placed on the stove and brought to a boil then balance of ingredients mixed together and stirred in the milk. Stir over the stove until it thickens. Almond Masse 1 pound almond paste, l 1 /^ pounds sugar. Suffi- cient eggs to make it of a consistency so it will spread very easily. 22 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING Butter Masse 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar rubbed to a light cream. Apricot Jelly 1 can apricots (approximately 6 pounds), rub through a fine sieve. Cook with 6 pounds sugar allowing five min- utes from time it starts to boil. These fillings can be reduced in quality by adding sugar syrup and cake crumbs. Various other flavors can be worked out by blending the various fillings. This is a matter for the bakery operator to determine. DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 2 Special Rolled In Coffee Cake 1 quart eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 3 ounces salt, 5 ounces yeast, 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, Vi ounce mace, strong flour, lemon and orange flavoring. This is a straight dough. The approximate time up to first punch will be 2y 2 to 3 hours. Knock down, roll out on bench and roll in 4 ounces of butter to the pound of dough. I would advise the use of half oleomargarine and half butter. These should be mixed together thor- oughly before this is rolled into the dough. This can be used as a base for filled coffee cake of all kinds. Also can be used for tea rings and other coffee cake of this type. Based on present prices this should retail at not less than 50 cents per pound. One quart milk and water, 2 eggs. 8 ounces sugar, 14 ounce salt, 4 ounces yeast, 2 ounces shortening, little mace and lemon oil, 75 per cent hard wheat flour, 25 per cent soft wheat flour. This dough is mixed similarly to first coffee cake dough. Allow this dough to rise until very full, then knock down, allow to come up half way the second time. Now roll the mass of dough to one-half inch in thickness on the bench. Spread over two-thirds of the surface l 1 /^ pounds of very firm shortening, double and roll as is usually done with French pastry. Keep in cool place for 15 minutes, then give two or three additional rollings. SWEET DOUGH OR COFFEE CAKE Five quarts milk, 5 quarts water, 5% pounds sugar, 7 pounds short- ening (2 pounds butter, 5 pounds Selex shortening), 1 pound yeast. 5 ounces salt, egg coloring, flavoring, mace and lemon, 10 eggs. Sponge Dough System Method Heat 8 quarts of milk and water to a temperature of 90 degrees ; dissolve the yeast in lukewarm water ; make a thick sponge batter using about 25 pounds of strong flour. This should be about the consistency of a soft dough. Allow this to rise and drop about one-fourth inch, then mix in the balance of the ingredients. Allow this dough to come up once very full, the second time up about three-fourths, and the third time about 15 to 20 minutes; then divide into sections for the various varieties of coffee cake. The selling price for this coffee cake per pound, plus the fillings, should average 35 to 40 cents per pound, with 35 cents as the minimum selling price per pound. The price should be set to conform to the scale weight in dough and not baked weight. DANISH PASTRY 23 COFFEE CAKE Goons AND SWEET DOUGH Coffee Cake for General Purposes This dough can be used as a base for snails, wreath cakes, plain buns, finger rolls, and a general line of coffee cake. For a straight dough coffee cake, weigh down the following : 1 quart of milk and water heated to 90 degrees, 8 ounces sugar, 12 ounces shortening. 2y 2 ounces yeast, 2 eggs, y ounce salt, little mace and lemon oil, strong flour, make a fairly soft dough. Quantities of coffee cake dough are usually referred to and meas- ured by the quart of liquid, therefore in ordering any quantity of cof- fee cake, orders are placed for one, two or three, or as many quarts as required. When mixing large quantities of coffee cake reduce the amount of yeast per quart. Thus a 12 quart batch would take 12 ounces to 16 ounces to properly ferment within a reasonable time. General method for preparing coffee cake dough as follows : Short- ening and sugar are rubbed to a light cream, the spices added, then the yeast is dissolved and added to the liquid ; flour and salt added, and lastly creamed shortening and sugar. This is allowed to raise to full proof, similar to the proof given a bread dough, then knocked down and allowed to prove a second time. This dough is usually taken on the third time up and worked into the desired shapes. APPLE, PEACH, PLUM, CAKE, ETC. For individual apple cake, line some layer cake pans with the sweet dough. Arrange some apples divided into eight pieces on top of the dough. Prove a little, then sprinkle over a little cinnamon sugar. Bake with a round of stiff paper, cut to the size of the pan, on top. This should be greased slightly. When baked let stand with the paper cover over a few minutes before removing. Brush over while warm with hot apricot jelly. For large apple cake proceed in the same way as for the individual size. For peach, plum, etc., line the pans as for apple cake and arrange the fruit as neatly as possible. For peach cake cut the peaches into quarters and arrange them into a gradually nar- rowing circle to the center. Prove and bake. Wash with hot apricot jelly when coming from oven. Proceed in the same way with the plums. APRICOT CAKE For apricot cake pin out a piece of plain coffee cake dough the length and width of a baking sheet and x /2 inch thick. Place this on a greased baking sheet. Give about half proof, then make some impres- sions in the dough with the top of a tea biscuit cutter an equal distance apart. Place half a preserved apricot within each impression and gran- ulated sugar over the whole. Finish proving and bake. Cut in pieces to retail at 30 cents each. WALNUT ROLLS For walnut rolls pin out a piece of dough as for snails, brush over some warm butter and sprinkle over pretty thickly a mixture composed of crushed walnuts and powdered sugar in equal proportions. Roll up and make the closing hold with a little egg wash. Cut into pieces to weigh 2 l /2 ounces each and place 7 in a round pan which has been heav- 24 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING ily greased and then well dusted with brown sugar. Prove and bake. Turn upside down as they come from the oven. Retail at 30 to 40 cents the ring, according to the locality. BUTTER SCOTCH BUNS A very delicious coffee cake is made by rolling a piece of dough to ^4 inch in thickness. Cream together 3 pounds of brown sugar. 1 pound of shortening, and 1 pound of butter to a very light cream. Spread this thinly over the whole sheet of dough and sprinkle over either roasted chopped nuts or chopped walnuts. Roll up the dough as for snails, and close the dough by washing the end with egg wash. Grease some round pans rather heavily with butter, and shortening, in equal proportions, and dust out with sifted brown sugar. Cut out in sections as for snails and place with the cut end to the pan and 6 or 7 in each pan. Prove until almost double in size, then bake on flat bak- ing sheet in moderate oven. Turn out of the pans while still hot. The combination of shortening and sugar will give these buns a very nice glaze, in fact, a candy is formed in the oven. APRICOT JELLY To prepare the jelly for brushing over apple cake, etc., weigh down the following : 10 pounds apricots, strain these through a coarse sieve, place in a copper kettle and to this add 10 pounds granulated sugar. Bring to a boil and allow to boil steadily for 25 minutes. CHEESE CAKE Line some layer cake pans with deep sides with sweet dough. Prove for 15 to 20 minutes, then trim the edges and prepare the following : 4 pounds sugar, 2 l /2 pounds shortening (part butter), 7 ounces corn starch, juice and grating of 7 lemons, 24 eggs and 8 pounds cheese. Rub the shortening and sugar to a light cream, beat up the eggs and add in three separate quantities, beat well after each addition, add the corn starch, then the juice and grating of lemons, lastly cheese. Fill the pans almost level, sprinkle over a few currants, then a dust of cin- namon. Bake in medium oven. CHEESE FOR CHEESE CAKE The cheese is prepared by allowing milk to get sour and lumpy in the can. This requires at least 3 to 4 days in the winter time, but in real hot weather 1 or 2 days will do the trick. Pour this into a clean flour sack and hang up for 2 or 3 days, then press through a fine sieve before using. STREUHSEL BUNS Break off pieces of dough to scale 10 to the pound. Roll up round, then oval in shape. Pin out to l / inch in thickness and place to touch on a baking sheet. Wash with eggs and prove. Before baking sprin- kle over thickly a mixture composed of the following 1 pound short- ening (part butter), 1 pound sugar, a little vanilla and cinnamon. 2 eggs, 2 pounds flour. Cream together the shortening and sugar, add the eggs and flavoring. Rub in flour lightly. Bake in moderate oven. For large Streuhsel cake weigh off into piece's scaling at 12 ounces. DANISH PASTRY 25 Pin out to 1/2 inch in thickness and proceed in the same way as for Streuhsel buns. NUT ROLLS Pin out a piece of dough as for snails, wash with butter and sprin- kle over a little cinnamon sugar, chopped almonds and raisins, fold the two ends into the center, wash with butter and lap one end over. This should leave a piece of dough 6 inches wide. Cut into pieces 1/2 inch wide. Give a little twist as for coffee rings and place together on the pan. Wash with egg, prove and before baking sprinkle over a few chopped almonds. Wash with water icing when partly cool. POPPY SEED STRUDEL Pin out a piece of dough oblong shape and spread over evenly a mixture composed of the following: 1 pound almond paste, % pound crumbs, 1^ pounds poppy seed (ground), sufficient eggs to make into a paste that will spread easily. Roll up, wash the end with egg to make the closing hold. Flatten out a little and cut into strips the length of a baking sheet. Wash with egg wash, prove and bake. When baked wash with water icing and cut slantwise into portions 1^2 inches wide. COFFEE AND TEA RINGS ROLLED IN BUTTER For bakers who cater to a high class trade and are looking for something exceptionally good along these lines, would recommend the following as likely to fill the bill. Very few bakers are familiar with rich butter doughs, but when once the proper handling of these doughs is mastered there is nothing in the coffee cake line to equal them for quality. The doughs for this purpose are usually made rich with eggs and sugar in the first place. Then after proving a little the butter is rolled in as for pastry. In summer time in a rich dough where as high as 4 pounds of butter to 8 pounds of dough is used it is necessary to keep in the icebox or over ice until working off. Three pastry turns are sufficient for a rich dough with an interval of half an hour between turns. This is the usual way of running all rich butter doughs. Rich almond paste fillings are used for making the higher priced coffee rings, one or two of which are given. For a coffee ring to sell at 25 and 30 cents each, prepare a dough from the following : 15 quarts milk, 4 quarts eggs, 9 pounds sugar, 6 pounds butter and lard, 6 ounces salt, 3 pounds yeast (young dough) flour, knock down in 2 hours, then take in 15 minutes. To every 20 pounds of dough roll in 2 l /2 pounds butter, give one pastry turn and work off quickly in the usual way. For higher priced rings roll in a little more buttei and sprinkle over a few chopped almonds, before baking. Wash with water icing when partly cool. ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS One quart milk, !/2 pound sugar, 1 quart eggs, 5 ounces yeast, lit- tle salt, dough up soft. Roll in 3 pounds butter to 9 pounds dough. Scale dough 1 pound 2 ounces each piece and 14 ounces of filling. FILLING FOR ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS One pound sugar, 1 pound almond paste, 5 eggs, 1V2 pounds raisins. Rub the almond paste smooth with the eggs, add the sugar, then the 26 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING raisins. Pin out the dough and cut into oblong shaped strips. Take a piece of the filling (14 ounces) and roll into a long strip and place down the center. Wash one end of the dough with egg wash and roll up to completely envelop the filling. Prove and sprinkle over a few chopped almonds. Bake and when partly cool, frost with white icing. ZWIEBACK Roll out some sweet dough, French bread style, but a little thicker, prove and bake. When a day old cut into slices % inch thick, place together on a baking sheet and toast in a brisk oven. FANCY ZWIEBACK Roll up the sweet dough into small rolls 3 inches long, and 1 inch wide, place in rows and close together on a baking sheet. Prove and bake. When a day old cut into slices, dip lightly into a mixture of half egg and milk, then into Streuhsel crumbs or flaked almonds. ALMOND ZWIEBACK Before toasting spread the slices with a mixture prepared from the following: y 2 pound almond paste, % pound sugar, 6 or 7 whites of eggs. Rub all together well, spread thinly on toast. CHAPTER 3. DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS The world war forever fixed the place of doughnuts, but it remains for the baker to see that their present popularity is never in jeopardy. An old industry was given a new lease of life when our boys returned from ' ' over there ' ' and the advertising that this popular and distinctly American confection has received since that time has been phenomenal. So much so that I feel justified in devoting several pages of this book to exclusive formulas that have won a national reputation for quality. Each one of the following formulas is a winner, and the quality may be determined in the order in which the formulas follow. SPECIAL DOUGHNUTS These doughnuts should be dusted with powdered sugar after they are cooled, with which has been sifted a little cinnamon. The formula is as follows: 6 pounds sugar, 5 ounces butter, 1 quart egg yolks (either fresh or frozen), 4 quarts whole milk, 17 pounds soft winter wheat flour, 12 ounces baking powder, 3 ounces salt, 2 ounces nutmeg, 1 tablespoon vanilla, 1 tablespoon lemon. Fry in grease or oil with butter oil flavoring added. These dough- nuts are very high grade and can be sold in boxes of one-half dozen or dozen. A very neat way of packing is to place same in a cardboard box lined with glassine paper. These doughnuts retail anything from 35 cents to 45 cents per dozen and sometimes higher than that. DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 2 Two pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 quart egg yolks, 2% quarts milk, 13 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces baking powder, juice and gratings of 3 lemons, y ounce mace, V"2 ounce salt. BAG DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 3 Five pounds 10 ounces sugar, % pounds butter, 16 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 4 ounces cream of tartar, iy 2 quarts eggs, 2 ounces salt, 1 ounce mace, vanilla, 4!/2 quarts milk. NEW YORK FORMULA FOR MACHINE DOUGHNUTS, No. 4 Six pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 quarts eggs, 5 ounces cream of tartar, 2y 2 ounces soda, 16 pounds flour, 2 ounces salt, 1 ounce nutmeg, vanilla flavoring, 4 quarts milk. Produces 45 dozen. DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 5 Fifteen pounds flour, 32 eggs, 5 quarts milk, 1 ounce mixed spices, nutmeg and mace, 4 ounces cream of tartar or cream of tartar substi- 28 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING tute, 1 pound lard or other shortening (preferably a vegetable shorten- ening), 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, 6 pounds sugar, 1^ ounces salt. Produces about 600 doughnuts. DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS A cruller mixture containing sponge may be made from the fol- lowing formula Sponge Hard wheat flour, 10 pounds ; water, 6 pounds ; yeast, 4 ounces. Mix the same as you mix a sponge for bread dough. This sponge will be ready when it begins to recede, about 2y 2 hours. Cruller Formula Sugar, 1 pound ; shortening, 4 ounces ; eggs, 1 ; milk, 1 quart; flour, 3% to 4 pounds; mace, y ounce: salt. !/2 ounce; vanilla flavor, baking powder, l 1 /^ ounces. Method Rub the sugar, shortening, eggs and salt to a creamy con- sistency. Add the milk and slightly break up l 1 /^ pounds to 2 pounds of the sponge. Next add the flour and mix to a smooth cruller dough. The cruller should be submerged in the grease during the entire fry- ing. The temperature of the grease should be 365 to 370 degrees. BRIOCHE BREAD CHAPTER 4. BRIOCHE This is a fancy fermented cake very popular in France and which is rapidly gaining favor in this country. It should be a popular addi- tion to the line of goods of any high grade store, especially those run- ning a tea room or coffee parlor as a side line. In Europe it is usually eaten with wine or coffee, made in small or oval finger shapes, and sandwiched together with either cream or savory filling. It is a de- lightful sandwich to serve in the tea rooms, which I think are fast be- coming popular. For the brioche weigh down the following quantities of materials : Sponge 2 pounds flour, 1 quart of milk, 2 ounces yeast. Warm the milk to about blood heat over the stove ; in this dissolve the yeast, then stir in the flour. Set away in a warm place to rise. Now prepare the following dough : 4 pounds strong flour, 30 eggs, 6 ounces sugar. Sieve the flour into a bowl, make a bay and place in the eggs and 6 ounces of the sugar. Make this into a real tough dough by stretching and banging on .the bench; work into this dough 4 pounds butter slowly, add about one-half pound at a time and work the dough well after each addition. When all the butter is in take the sponge, which should have risen enough by this time, and work into the butter dough with 6 ounces more sugar. Just mix through the sponge suf ficient to make a clear dough. Put this away in a cool place for from eight to ten hours. This is really an over night dough and if possible it should have one knockdown during that time, say after six or seven hours. When the dough is ready turn out onto the bench. For large rings scale at 1 pound 2 ounces; for ring twists 15 ounces. Pinch off the dough for small rolls to scale 16 or 17 to the pound. The large rings are prepared by first handing the dough up round. Allow this to stand a little while, then make a hole in the center. Gradually open this out by let- ting it run through the hands. Place onto baking sheets and brush over with a heavy wash of egg yolks. Let stand a little while and give another coating of egg yolks; give small proof, then make some inci- sions with a pair of scissors around the top of the ring. Leave plain or sprinkle a little granulated sugar with a few flaked almonds on top. Hake in sound oven. For serving in tea rooms or coffee parlors the handiest shapes are the oval arid finger rolls. These should be kept small, as their smallness increases their daintiness. Give two coatings of egg wash and mark several times on top with a sharp knife. The fancy shaped rolls are usually eaten plain. The very smallest amount of proof is necessary to keep them in perfect shape ; in fact, this rule should apply to all brioche. The large rings retail at 35 cents each; the ring twists at 30 cents and the small rolls at 25 to 30 cents per dozen. If a faster dough is needed use 6 to 8 ounces of yeast to this quantity of dough. This should be ready in about four hours with one 30 knockdown. Care should be taken to have the dough kept real cool at all times, as it contains quite a quantity of butter. Without excep- tion brioche is the richest fermented dough made, that is one from which small rolls are made, and I can highly recommend this recipe to any baker looking for something in this class. The distinguishing characteristic of brioche is its short and cheesy nature when eaten. UNFERMENTED BRIOCHE Four pounds flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicarbonate of soda, % pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 ounces sugar, 1 ounce of salt and milk. Thoroughly mix the flour and chemicals together by sifting them; rub in the butter, make a bay; add sugar, salt, eggs and suffi- cient milk to make a fairly free dough. Make into various fancy shapes; wash with yolks of eggs, let stand for half an hour and bake in hot oven. CHAPTERS. CAKES FOR EVERY DAY SALES TEA BISCUITS Six pounds flour, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 1^ ounces soda, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces sugar, 1 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk. Rub the lard into the flour, make a bay, place in the rest of the ingredients, lastly milk. Mix into a clear dough without toughening too much. Cut out with 2 inch plain cutter, pan close together on lightly greased baking sheets, wash with egg and bake in hot oven. Retail at so much per dozen. JELLY ROLL No. 1 Two quarts eggs, 4^2 pounds granulated sugar, 2y% pounds strong flour, vanilla flavor. Beat up the eggs and granulated sugar as for sponge cake. Flavor with vanilla and mix through the flour lightly. Divide between four papered baking sheets. When baked turn onto clean sacks, wet the papers and remove, spread over thinly some rasp- berry jam and roll tight, let stand tightly rolled in sack until quite cold. Then cut into sections. JELLY ROLL No. 2 Ten pounds sugar (half granulated and half powdered), 6 quarts eggs, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 2 ounces orange flower water, 10 pounds flour. This mixture is for the highest class trade. Place the eggs in the beater, add the sugar and beat up well, get it out into a bowl and sift the soda in through a fine sieve and also add the flavor, thoroughly mix in the cream of tartar through the sifted flour and carefully mix into a clear dough ; spread it out in the usual way on pans and when baked spread on thinly raspberry jam and roll up tight in paper. LADY FINGERS No. 1 One quart whites, % quarts yolks, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong, half soft). Beat up the whites good and stiff in either the kettle or machine, add about half the sugar gradually, beat well after each addition. Now mix through the yolks gently, then the remainder of the sugar with a little vanilla extract, mix through the flour lightly with the hand. Sieve enough powdered sugar so that when spread out it will be the length and breadth of a baking sheet. Lay out the fingers with a bag and V\ inch plain tube on papers, pick up and drop onto the powdered sugar, then onto the baking sheet. Bake in sound oven. Remove from the papers by wetting the back and sand- wich together in pairs. This is by far the best way to make lady fin- gers, making a nice, bold, soft eating finger. Of course care should be 32 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING taken to have the whites nice and clean and to see that the receptacle in which they are beaten up is also. Retail at so much per pound. LADY FINGERS No. 2 One quart eggs, ^ pint yolks, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong and half soft). Warm the eggs, yolks and sugar over the stove and beat up until light and thick, add a little flavoring, then the flour. Proceed in the same way as for Lady Fingers No. 1. ANGEL FOOD One quart whites, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound soft flour, !/4 ounce of cream of tartar, 1 ounce corn starch, vanilla flavor. Beat up the whites fairly stiff, then gradually beat in 1 pound of the sugar with a good pinch of cream of tartar. Stir in the remainder of the sugar mixed with the flour and cream of tartar. Soak the angel food pans in cold water before using. Fill level and bake in moderate oven. Will make seven to sell at 25 to 30 cents each. When baked and cool frost with either white or chocolate fondant. CRULLERS Eight pounds flour, 3 ounces baking powder, l / 2 pound butter and lard, 2 pounds sugar, 8 eggs, 4^ pints milk. Place the sugar, fat and eggs together in a bowl. Rub a little and add a few drops of lemon oil with a little egg color. Add the milk, then the flour and baking pow- der. Mix sufficient to clear the dough. Cut out with regular cruller .cutter and fry. CHAPTEE 6. PIES Pie paste is a difficult thing for which to give any standard recipe. Flour and lards vary so much in quality that it is best left to the baker to adjust the recipe to the materials at hand. One shipment of lard may be tough and another light and short, one contains more fat and the other vice versa, so if the recipe given does not give satisfactory results look to your materials. Flours vary in softness and likewise water absorbing qualities. Both flour and lard are important in the manufacture of good paste, so care in the selection of materials is neces- sary if you would produce good pies. For the paste weigh down the following : 12 pounds soft flour. G 1 /^ pounds lard, 4 ounces salt, 2 quarts water. Rub the lard through the flour, add the salt and lastly water. Put together without overwork- ing. A special paste for pies is given under the heading puff pastry recipe No. 3. PIE FILLINGS Pie fillings, with the methods of preparation, etc., have been writ- ten about so many times in the trade journals and every baker seems to have his own method of preparing same, therefore I will touch very lightly upon this subject. One thing I would like to mention. When- ever possible use fresh fruit in preference to canned. Sharpen the taste of fruit with an insipid flavor with the juice of lemons. Some fruits should be partly cooked before placing in the pies. When using canned fruits that are inclined to be sloppy after the addition of sugar would advise cooking over the stove for a few minutes and adding 2 ounces of cornstarch to each gallon of fruit. CUSTARD FILLING FOR CUSTARD PIES One quart milk, 4 eggs, 4 yolks, 6 ounces sugar, a little vanilla and mace for flavoring. LEMON PIE FILLING Six quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, juice and zest of 14 lemons, 1 pound 2 ounces corn starch. Place the sugar and water in a copper kettle and bring to the boil, add the juice and lemon zest, then the eggs and corn starch, which have been previously mixed together, stir vigorously while adding eggs and corn starch and cook for a few seconds over the stove. Fill level in the baked shells. PUMPKIN PIE FILLING One pint milk, 1 quart pumpkin, y 2 pound sugar, 1/2 ounce salt, !/2 ounce ginger, 14 ounce cinnamon, 5 eggs, 1% ounces butter. Cheapen by the addition of 1 pint milk and 2 ounces flour. 34 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES Chocolate cream pies are finished in the same way as lemon cream pies. For the chocolate cream weigh down the following : 1 quart milk, 5 eggs, 2 ounces corn starch, 6 ounces sugar, 4 ounces sweet chocolate, 2 ounces butter. Bring the milk to the boil over the stove, add sugar, eggs and corn starch mixed together, stir a few minutes until it thick- ens. Remove from the stove and add sweet chocolate, batter and a lit- tle vanilla flavor, stir until dissolved. Fill into the baked shells while warm. COVERING MERINGUE FOR LEMON AND CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES One quart whites, 3 pounds powdered sugar, pinch cream of tartar, little vanilla flavor. Beat up the whites until stiff, add a pinch of cream of tartar, then beat in gradually half the sugar, mix through the remainder slowly with the hand or whip. PUMPKIN PIE No. 2 In most high class stores a pumpkin pie with a nice yellow color is usually asked for. To obtain this it is absolutely necessary to use a fine grade of pumpkin. Providing everything is all right in this re- spect weigh down the following : To each quart of pumpkin use 1 quart milk, y 2 pound sugar, 5 eggs, little clove, cinnamon and mace. OPEN FRUIT TARTS For open fruit tarts line some 9 to 12 inch layer cake pans with sweet short dough. For pineapple take a can of preserved pineapple, tear it apart in small pieces with a fork, sprinkle a few cake crumbs on the bottom of the tart, then the pineapple. Wash the edges with egg, then place strips of sweet short dough opposite ways, forming a series of diamond shaped spaces. Wash with egg and bake on the sole of the oven. When baked turn out and brush with hot apricot jelly. Other tarts are prepared in the same way. In the case of blueberries, etc., first cook the fruit with sugar and add 4 ounces corn starch to the gallon, allow to cool off before using. Retail from 30 to 50 cents each. CHAPTER 7. COOKIES For premier cookies weigh down the following : 4 pounds soft flour, 3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds golden syrup, 2 ounces baking soda, 16 eggs, 1*4 ounces ginger. Sieve the soda with the flour and make into a bay. Place in the butter, sugar, syrup and eggs. Dough up in the usual way for cookies. Roll out very thin and cut out with cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter. Turn onto granulated sugar and place on well greased pans ; 12 on a pan is sufficient, as they spread quite a lot. Bake in moderate oven. Will make 24 dozen. QUEEN COOKIES Six and a half pounds of soft flour, 4 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds lard, 14 eggs, % pint milk, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia. Sieve the flour and granulated sugar together and rub in the lard. Make a bay, dissolve the ammonia in the mix, add the eggs and dough up in the usual way. Pin out real thin and cut out with 3-inch scalloped cutter and place on greased pans. Wash with a little egg, molasses and water mixed together. Bake in good oven. HONEY COOKIES For honey cookies weigh down the following: 14 pounds flour, 1 gallon of honey, % pound sugar, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces baking soda, 8 eggs, about 1 pint water, 1 ounce ammonia, ginger and lemon for fla- vor. Rub the lard into the flour, make a bay and place in the remain- der of the ingredients. Dough up in the usual way. This dough should be allowed to stand over night to mature. When ready pin out fairly thin and cut out with 2^-inch scalloped cutter. Place on greased pans and bake in medium oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per dozen. This makes a real nice eating cooky when properly made and one that shows a good profit. FIG COOKIES For fig cookies weigh down the following : 5 pounds sugar, 3% pounds lard, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1% ounces soda, l 1 /^ pounds figs, 1^4 pounds raisins, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 9 pounds flour, 4 ounces cream of tartar. Rub together the lard and sugar, add the eggs in two additions, then the milk and lastly flour, baking powder, raisins, figs (coarsely chopped) and spices. Drop out with the hand on greased pans in drops about twice the size of a silver dollar, dust with granu- lated sugar and bake in moderate oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per dozen. 36 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING RAISIN COOKIES Two pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 10 eggs, 3 pounds raisins, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce baking powder, vanilla flavoring. Rub the fat and sugar together a little, add the eggs and flavoring, then the raisins, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out to % inch in thickness and cut out with plain cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter; pan onto dry baking sheets. Retail at 20 cents per dozen. GINGER COOKIES One pound butter and lard, 1 quart molasses and honey, 4 eggs, 2 ounces soda, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce ginger, little cinnamon, cloves and mace. Rub the butter and lard together in the bowl, add the molasses and eggs, then the spices, the soda, dissolved in a little milk, and lastly flour. Pin out to % inch in thickness, cut out with plain cutter 2*4 inches in diameter, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto greased pans. Bake. WHITE SUGAR COOKIES Two pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, % pint of eggs, 1 pint milk, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce cream of tartar, y 2 ounce soda. Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs with a little lemon flavoring, then the milk, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out the same as for ginger cookies, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto greased pans. Bake. OATMEAL COOKIES Six pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 3 pounds oatmeal, 2 pounds rai- sins, l l /2 ounces soda, 1 pint water, 10 eggs, 6 pounds flour. Rub the sugar and lard together, add the eggs, then the water and fruit, lastly add the flour and oatmeal. Pin out on the bench fairly thin, cut out with plain round cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter, place on greased pans and bake in moderate oven. FANCY BUTTER COOKIES For fancy butter cookies weigh down the following: 2 l / 2 pounds sugar, 4 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 6 pounds soft flour, vanilla flavor. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs a few at a time, then the vanilla extract and lastly flour. With a bag and small star tube lay out in small shapes on baking sheet (not greased), describe a circle when laying out with the bag. By the time the whole mix is laid out the first pan will be ready. Now make a small hole in the center of each cooky by pressing in with the finger almost to the pan. Place a spot of apricot jelly in half the mix with a little raspberry jam in the other half. Bake in medium oven. GINGER NUTS Six pounds of soft flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicar- bonate of soda, 1 pound of sugar, 10 ounces butter and lard, 5 pounds of molasses, y 2 ounce mixed spice, l l / 2 ounces ginger. Sift the flour, cream of tartar and soda together, make a bay and place in the sugar, ginger and spice. Put the butter, lard and molasses in a lar pounds almond paste, 2V4 quarts eggs, 12y 2 pounds flour, 3 ounces soda, 4^ quarts milk, 3% pounds chopped walnuts, 4 l /2 pounds granulated sugar, iy 2 pints water, 2*4 pounds bitter chocolate. Place the -iy 2 pounds granulated sugar and l l / 2 pints water together and bring to the boil over the fire ; take off the stove and to this add 2V4 pounds bitter chocolate. Now prepare the mix. Cream together the butter, sugar and almond paste ; add the eggs gradually, beating well after each addition; mix in the chocolate syrup, then the milk and lastly flour, baking soda and chopped walnuts. Scale at 12 ounces into the round layer cake pans. Bake in moderate oven. WHITE LAYERS Seven pounds flour, 7 pounds sugar, 2 l / 2 pounds butter, 2 ounces of baking powder, l l / 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts egg whites; cream together the butter and sugar ; add the egg whites gradually, with the last two additions of egg whites throw in about l / 2 pound flour each time. Place in the milk and mix in the flour and baking powder. Scale at 14 ounces into square and round layers. Bake in moderate oven. FRUIT LAYERS One and one-half pounds almond paste, 1 pound chopped almonds (not too fine), % pound chopped preserved fruit (pineapple, cherries, etc.), 1 pound sugar, 10 yolks, 10 whites, 3 ounces flour, zest of 3 lem- ons, zest of 2 oranges; cream the almond paste, sugar and yolks to- gether; mix in the fruit, flour, juice and zest of oranges and lemons; lastly add the whites beaten to a stiff foam ; mix through lightly. This mix will make six square layers. Bake in cool oven. This layer is used more as a filler than for anything else ; it has a fine flavor and sandwiched between two layers of any of the foregoing mixtures with a fruit icing on top makes a layer that cannot be sur- passed for quality and appearance. BUTTER SPONGE LAYERS For butter sponge layers weigh down the following : 8 pounds granulated sugar, 6 quarts eggs, 2*/ 2 quarts yolks, 6 pounds flour, 3 HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES 59 pounds butter^ Place the eggs, yolks and sugar in a copper kettle and warm through on the stove; place in the machine and beat up as for sponge cake ; when light mix in the flour lightly and lastly add the butter, which has been previously melted on the stove ; fill in square layer pans level with the top, using a pie plate for the purpose to avoid handling the mix as much as possible. Bake in moderate oven. CHOCOLATE WALNUT LAYERS For chocolate walnut layers sandwich one square white layer between the chocolate layers, using the chocolate walnut filling. Mask the sides with a little meringue and dip in coarsely chopped walnuts. Ice the top with chocolate fondant and divide into 16 squares with lines of yellow fondant, as shown in cut. Place half a walnut within each square. PUNCH LAYERS Sandwich three of the yellow sheet layers together with the punch filling. Mask the sides with meringue and press into the sides roasted flaked almonds. Frost the top with white fondant and with bag and star tube make a neat border, etc., using the punch filling. Punch Layer Cake Chocolate ^'alnut Layer LEMON LAYERS Take 2^ yellow layers for one lemon layer. Spread a layer of lemon filling on one whole layer, place the half layer on top of this and give another layer of filling. Place a whole layer on top. Mask the sides with meringue and dip in coarsely chopped pecan nuts that have been partly roasted in the oven. Frost the top with a frosting made from XXXX sugar and the juice and zest of lemons. Place a ring of half pecan nuts around the edge. This makes a most delicious eating layer. Place in sufficient filling so that the layer will shake lightly when it is touched. CHOCOLATE GINGER LAYERS Take three of the ginger layers and sandwich together with rasp- berry jam. Wash with apricot jelly and frost with chocolate fondant. Place two or three pieces of preserved ginger on top. 60 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING PECAN LAYERS For the pecan layers coarsely chopped pecan nuts should be added to the white layer cake mix, not a large quantity, but just sufficient to shoM T a nice face when cut. Scale the same as for plain white layers. Sandwich three of the pecan layers together with marshmallow fla- vored with a little kirschwasser. Spread a little on the sides and on top. Place away in the icebox for a while to set firm. Frost the whole with white fondant to which has been added a little kirschwasser and sieve over the top finely ground pecan nuts that have been roasted a little in the oven. This makes a nice compact layer, clean to handle. Of course, in localities where 80 or 90 cents is the highest price it is possible to obtain for a layer of this class, vanilla flavor should be used in the place of kirschwasser. CHERRY LAYERS Sandwich one square white layer between two square yellow sheet layers using the cherry marshmallow as a filler. Spread a little of the filling on top and sides. Cover the whole with fondant and place two cherries at each corner, with strips of angelica for stalks. Another way is to press roasted flaked almonds into the sides, frost the top with white fondant and finish in the same manner as when iced plain white. (See Plate 6.) MIXED FRUIT LAYERS Sandwich one of the fruit layers from the fruit layer cake mix between two of the yellow sheet layers, using raspberry jam as the filler. Mask the sides with meringue and press in white flaked almonds. Frost the top with a fruit icing made by mixing some coarsely chopped pineapple and cherries through the white fondant. Place a ball of the chopped fruit at each corner of layer and make a neat bor- der of the punch filling. To make the balls of chopped fruit roll be- tween the hands to make into ball shape and turn onto coarse granu- lated sugar. Place in position with a little white fondant to make them adhere to the layer. 'LADY BALTIMORE LAYERS For the Lady Baltimore layers mix together 3 pounds figs (chopped fairly fine), 3 pounds Sultana raisins, 3 pounds of roasted pecan nuts, coarsely chopped. Make some meringue with 3 quarts whites, 14 pounds powdered sugar and vanilla flavor. When made, mix the dry ingredients through. Take three of the round white layers, spread a good layer of the filling between each layer and cover the top and sides to the extent of l / inch in thickness. Place in the oven until the edges are tinted a pale brown. PREMIER LAYERS For premier layers sandwich one of the yellow sheet layers between two square chocolate layers, using the punch filling as a filler. Trim the sides, brush over with hot apricot jelly and frost with chocolate fondant. Execute a little design on top with the punch filling, using a star tube. HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES 61 ORANGE COCOANUT CAKES Grate the zest from one to two oranges, according to size ; mix this through some freshly beaten meringue. Take three of the white layers arid sandwich them together with orange meringue, with a little freshly grated cocoanut mixed through. Cover the whole with orange mer- ingue and press freshly grated cocoanut into the sides and on top. Or- ange marshmallow is sometimes used in preference to the meringue, as this will keep soft between the layers for a much longer time than when using meringue. However, either will make a delightful and tasty confection. BANANA TARTS For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one sealed at 10 to 12 ounces, from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer ; use two bananas to each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked almonds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border ; place half a banana, divided lengthwise on top with a cherry and an- gelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup (this prevents the banana from going dark). They are a very classy looking article and retail from 45 cents to 50 cents each. PINEAPPLE SNOW CAKE For pineapple snow cake take three of the white layers, drain the liquid from a can of preserved pineapple and chop up the pineapple fairly thin. Spread a layer of the chopped pineapple on one of the white layers and over this spread a thin layer of meringue. Proceed in this way until the three layers are in position. Cover the whole with a layer of meringue about 14 inch in thickness, dust lightly with pow- dered sugar and place in the oven until the edges are tinted a light brown. Banana Tart 82 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING Pastry Charlottes Spanish Puffs Opera Pastries Cream Baskets Matinee Creams Punch Buns CHAPTER 12. CREAM GOODS The following recipes are for exceedingly choice goods and should be a welcome addition to the list of cream goods of any high class firm. The list also includes recipes for ordinary goods for the benefit of those who have had but little experience along these lines. They should prove beneficial to the trade at large. SPONGE CASING FOR CHARLOTTE RUSSE There are several good methods of making the sponge casing for charlotte russe. In quite a few high class stores it is customary to make use of stale lady fingers for the purpose, but where a large quan- tity of charlottes are prepared this is hardly practical. For casing No. 1 weigh down the following 1 quart egg whites, % quart yolks, 1 pound granulated sugar, 1 pound powdered sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong, half soft). Beat the whites to a stiff foam and add the granulated sugar gradually, beating well after each addition; add the yolks and beat 2 or 3 seconds more. Now stir through the powdered sugar with the egg whip, and lastly add the flour; mix through lightly with the hand. Fill the bag containing a lady finger tube with the mixture and lay out in 3 strips on paper baking sheet. Do this by forcing the mixture out lady finger shape, but close together and about 4 inches wide. When baked, cut the strips down the center and length, accord- ing to the size of the cups. In this way the charlottes have the appear- ance of being lined with lady fingers without all the trouble attached to the making and use of same. For those who have a large trade in charlottes, would recommend the use of sheets, as these can be piled 011 top of each other and several hundred linings cut at one time. In a large bakery I operated seven years ago we made quite a quantity of charlottes each day and to do away with the annoying difference in thickness of the sheets in places, a trouble hard to avoid when spread- ing with a palette knife, we had a tube made, 5 inches long and i/j inch wide ; this was attached in the same manner as the small rubber bags and decorating tubes. In this way a ribbon of the mixture was forced out, much in the same way as the tubes of dental cream. This did away with all spreading ; the sheets were the same thickness, and what is more important than anything in a mixture of this kind, more espe- cially a large one, it had the advantage of speed. A mixture run out. with the tube could be done in about half the time it would take to spread with a bowl knife, and using the tube one was assured of having the sheets of a uniform thickness. For casing No. 2 weigh down the following: 2 quarts eggs, 4^ pounds granulated sugar, 2^/2 pounds flour (half strong, half soft). Place the eggs and sugar in a copper kettle ?nd warm over the stove. Place in the machine and. beat until light and thick, then mix through 64 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING the flour lightly with the hand. Proceed in the same way as for Cas- ing No. 1. Bake in fairly hot oven. PLAIN WHIPPED CREAM For assisting cream to retain its firmness after whipping, gela- tine should be used in the proportion of l / 2 pound to 5 gallons of cream. The gelatine should not be used too warm or too thick. When using a good brand of sheet gelatine a pound should be dissolved in l 1 /^ to 2 quarts of water. This should be thoroughly dissolved by placing in an outer pan containing boiling water, and whatever quantity is needed should be partly cooled off and the vanilla mixed with it before adding to the cream. For sweetening purposes the usual quantity of sugar al- lowed is 4 ounces to the quart, but this is entirely a matter of taste. CHARLOTTE BUSSE Line some charlotte russe cases with sponge sheet or lady fingers. Fill a bag containing a IVk-inch plain tube or a large star tube and pipe on a pyramid of whipped cream, bring to a point at the top. Retail at 5 cents each. DOUBLE CHARLOTTES Take a small amount of whipped cream and make into a light paste with some slightly warm melted bitter chocolate ; add this to the bulk. Now line some charlotte russe cups as for plain charlottes ; fill about two-thirds full with whipped cream, using a star tube, then top off each one with a little of the chocolate whipped cream. The above method of mixing the chocolate whipped cream is the only way in which any degree of success is assured. If added to the bulk without first making a paste the warm chocolate on contact with the cold cream will set in small, hard lumps. Retail at 90 cents per dozen. CHARLOTTES A LA CARDINAL This is a very high class charlotte, but is rather a tricky mixture to work out successfully at the first attempt. However, I hope this won't deter any readers from attempting same, of course providing he has a trade that .will stand for the price. Line some charlotte cups with lady fingers. Now take 2 quarts of cream, have your assistant beat this up, while you prepare the following: place 10 yolks of eggs in a small bowl, add to this x /2 pound sugar and beat together until fairly light, then add 1 gill of melted gelatine (proportion explained in whipped cream). Pour this mixture into the yolks of eggs gradually beating well while adding ; beat for a few seconds more, but on no ac- count let it get too thick. Of course, this depends upon the temperature of the bakery, as the gelatine setting will thicken the mixture. Then add to the whipped cream. The mixture should be just thick enough to pour into the whipped cream, but do not let it get above the pouring stage or the resultant cream will be very disappointing. Fill in the same way as for charlotte russe. Retail at 10 cents each. LARGE CHARLOTTES Large charlottes are usually prepared from large sponge cakes hollowed out, then filled with cream. The best method of preparing CREAM GOODS 65 these charlottes is to use lange du chat biscuits or wafers, made into finger shapes around the sides. These are usually held in position by the use of a little butter cream, then when the charlotte is finished stretch a band of pale colored silk ribbon around the sides and finish with a large bow. In this way additional strength is given the casing, otherwise with such a soft and absorbent casing as sponge cake the charlotte would fall to pieces in a very short time. The filling of cream can be rounded off dome shape and further decorated with glace fruit, etc. A very effective way of finishing a large charlotte is to frost a piece of charlotte casing with pink icing. When dry, cut into diamond shapes, etc., and if necessary decorate with a little royal icing, using a paper cone cut very fine. Arrange these small pieces on top and use a wide band of pale pink ribbon for the sides. PUNCH CREAM BUNS For punch cream buns make up a fairly rich fermented dough, a dough with about ~y% pound sugar, l / 2 pound butter and 4 or 5 eggs to the quart, or if only a few are to be made for a start, make some of the ordinary bun dough a little richer by the addition of a few eggs. Scale 3 ounces for two buns. Hand up round, pan and wash with strong egg glaze, a mixture of yolks and eggs, and give good proof before baking. When cool, split almost in two and dip in a punch previously prepared from the following : 1 gallon of plain syrup, juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon, rum flavoring. Bring the syrup to the boil, add the orange and lemon juice and rum flavoring; allow to boil. The buns should be just put in and taken out or they will absorb too much liquor. When cool, open and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. Sprinkle a little pistachio nut on the cream showing between the bun. The punch will keep for some time and should be warmed each day before using. Retail at 90 cents a dozen. SAVARINS For Savarins make up a dough as for punch cream buns, but use 6 or 7 eggs to the quart and make the dough soft enough to put through a bag and tube. A genuine Savarin mixture is given below, which can be used if preferred. They can be made any size, the molds are simi- lar in shape to angel cake molds, with the exception of the tube being wider, not so deep and closed at the top. When the dough is ripe, fill the molds barely half way. Give good proof and bake in fairly hot oven. When cool soak in punch as for punch buns, and fill with whipped and sweetened cream, to which has been added the yolks of a few eggs; sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top. Large Sav- arins can be made in the same way, but should be decorated with alm- onds, cut lengthwise, and stuck into the side with a little fruit on top. SAVARIN MIXTURE The genuine French Savarin mixture is made from the following: warm up a pint of milk, into this dissolve 1 ounce of yeast and make into sponge with about 1 pound of flour. Allow to stand in a warm place to get a start. Make up another dough with 2 pounds flour and 15 eggs; beat these together thoroughly. To this add 2 pounds butter 66 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING gradually, and finish making the dough with 15 eggs (making 30 in all) and 1/2 pound sugar. When made, add the sponge and work through. This dough can stand all night in a cool place, and should be beaten back before being used up the next morning. It is only neces- sary for the sponge to get a start, but plenty of work should be given the dough at all stages of manufacturing. BANANA TARTS For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one scaled at 10 to 12 ounces from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer; use 2 bananas to each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked alm- onds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border: place half a banana, divided lengthwise, on top, with a cherry and angelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup. (This prevents the banana from going dark.) They are a very classy article and retail from 40 to 50 cents each. CREAM BASKETS Take some cup-shaped cakes and slice a little off the bottom to make them stand level. Now take a pointed knife and cut a round out of the top, digging down into the cake and saving the piece cut out for the lid of the basket. Brush the sides with apricot jelly and roll in roasted flaked almonds. With bag and plain tube pipe in a big bulb of whipped cream, bring it well up and do not get too near the sides ; cut the lid in half and place in position so that the center is lower than the sides; sieve over lightly a little XXXX sugar and place in position a handle cut from angelica. Retail at 90 cents per dozen. PINEAPPLE TARTS Proceed in the same way as for banana tarts, using canned chopped pineapple, with the liquid drained therefrom, in the place of bananas. Retail at 40 to 50 cents each. MATINEE CREAMS For matinee creams take some ordinary sized cream puffs, force in some whipped cream, using a bag and plain tube. Frost the top with maple fondant, then brush the sides with apricot jelly and press in roasted stale macaroon crumbs. Fill a paper cone with maple fondant and describe circles on the top, gradually working out from the cen- ter. Before being allowed to dry sprinkle in the center a few coarsely chopped pecan nuts which have been previously roasted in the oven. If pecan nuts are not available use coarsely chopped walnuts. Retail at 90 cents per dozen. OPERA PASTRIES This is a very delicate pastry and is a desirable addition to the variety of goods prepared to serve in the coffee parlor or tea room. Take a baked strip of pastry as used for Napoleons (about 4^/ 2 to 5 inches wide), spread over a thin layer of raspberry jam, and on the CREAM GOODS 67 top of this place a strip of light sponge sheet the same width and length of the pastry. Now fill the bag containing a large plain tube with whipped cream and force out two or three strips on top of the sponge sheet. Round this off nicely with a bowl knife, then cover the whole with a thin layer of meringue. This can be done by using a bag with a medium sized star tube and piping the lines close together running from end to end. The quicker way of putting on the meringue is to use the special tube as mentioned for laying out the sponge sheets; in this way a ribbon of meringue is forced out sufficient to cover the strip at one operation. Now transfer the finished strip to a flat piece of wood about the same width and length. The idea is to get a little brown color on the meringue by holding it near a strong flame. Where there are open furnaces to the ovens, and coke or coal is used, this is an easy matter; it is only necessary to hold in the heat two or three seconds, as the meringue quickly colors. A heater such as candy makers use is quite all right for this purpose in case it is not handy to reach the furnace. Cut into sections 1^2 inches wide and retail at 60 cents to $1 per dozen. This is a splendid eating pastry and has a very high class appearance. When packing great care should be exercised, as the pastries have nothing strong in the way of casing. BOSTON CREAM PIES Allow 11/2 layer cakes, layers scaled at 8 ounces, into the pan, for each pie. Split and sandwich the whole layer with yellow custard cream. On top of this spread a thick layer of whipped cream. Now divide the half layer in two and place on in the same way as for cream baskets. Dust rather heavily with XXXX sugar and mark out a little design on top with a point of a knife. Retail at 30 to 40 cents each. SNOWBALLS For snowballs take some good shaped doughnuts, preferably those a few hours old. Split almost in two and force in a large bulb of whipped and sweetened cream. Dust on top with XXXX sugar. Re- tail at 40 cents per dozen. It is surprising what nice eating this cake makes. Of course the doughnuts should be thoroughly cooked, and at the same time be a light brown in color, and at least half a day old to insure their cutting firm and not being in the least doughy. Very few people after eating one would guess they had been eating a humble doughnut so effectively disguised. Try them. ORANGE CREAMS For orange cream casing weigh down the following: 1 pound sugar, 2 pounds flour, 1^2 quarts egg whites, 1 bare quart of yolks. Place the whites in the machine and beat up fairly stiff. Then add the sugar gradually as for meringue. When all the sugar is beaten in add the yolks and run on slow speed for two or three seconds. Remove from the machine and mix through the flour lightly with the hand. With bag and %-inch plain tube lay out on papered baking sheets twice the size of an egg. Bake in moderate oven until fairly dry. When baked scoop out the centers with a sharp knife and place two together, using a little apricot jelly to make them adhere. Brush over with hot apricot jelly, and frost with fondant through which has been 68 . MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING mixed the grated rind of two or three oranges; sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top ; when dry make a small hole in the side, and with bag and a small plain tube force in sufficient whipped cream to fill. WHIPPED CREAM TORTE Weigh down the following mixture: l l / 2 quarts of whole eggs and yolks, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound roasted almonds (ground fine), % pound f lour,' % pound butter. Place the yolks, eggs and sugar in a copper kettle and warm over the stove ; remove and beat until light and thick, then add the almonds and flour mixed together. When partly mixed add the butter, which has been previously melted in the oven ; lay out in the regular torte hoops. For $1 size these usu- ally measure 8^2 inches in diameter; the $1.50, about 10 inches; the $2, 11 inches, and so on. Paper the hoops and do not use any grease on the sides ; spread to 1 inch in thickness and bake in medium oven. When baked carefully remove the skin (the top) of the torte with a sharp knife, taking care not to break; slide on to cake round and ice thinly with white frosting. Now hollow out the center of the torte and fill with whipped cream. Remove the center of the frosted top with a round cutter 1^ inches in diameter, then divide into 12 sections for a $1 torte, 16 for $1.50 torte, and so on. Decorate with a cone of royal icing cut fine and glace fruit. Place on a board and lace paper, then spread a little whipped cream around the sides and press roasted flaked almonds into the sides. HAZELNUT CREAM TORTE Take two of the baked torten, as used for whipped cream torten. For this purpose these are best hollowed out by removing the cake in a circle ; hollow out */2 inch from the sides and leave a circle of cake in the center of each, then w r hen the two are placed together there is plenty of support in the center, as the two small circles left in each torte should meet, and in this way the pressure of the top does not lie on the cream. Fill with w r hipped cream through which has been mixed finely ground hazelnuts. For the side pin out a piece of marzipan (this is prepared with y 2 pound almond paste, y 2 pound sugar, suffi- cient whites to make a stiff paste, and a dash of rum flavoring), to % inch in thickness, pass over a fluted rolling pin, then cut into a long strip wide enough to cover the sides of the torte and reach half an inch above the top ; pinch the top of the marzipan all around with a pair of paste nippers. Frost the top thinly with white fondant and place just inside the border a ring of filbert nuts previously dipped in caramel sugar ; intersperse with small diamond-shaped pieces of angel- ica. Place a little cut glace fruit in the center, and if a high priced torte, further decorate with a cone of royal icing cut very fine. PASTRY CHARLOTTES For pastry charlottes pin out a piece of straight puff pastry to % inch in thickness ; cut into pieces 3 inches square. Splash the center with a little egg wash and fold the four corners to the center. Place onto a pan lightly splashed w r ith water and bake until crisp in moder- ate oven. When cool dust with XXXX su