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PUB ETS H.E.D * BY
THE MOUNTAINEERS
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
NINETEEN HUNDRED TEN
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The Mountaineer
VOLUME ITT.
Published by
THE MOUNTAINEERS
Seattle, Wash.
IQIO
Copyricut 7 :
1910
Tue MovunrTarINneERS ,.
CONTENTS
Page
Grectiney ee) OE CN TYR V ILD Yi aa2
CCC GIN 2 ee ee ne een Sea 2. OTS RICNGTd Burton: ...------2-2-20-
Objectssof Our Clube =e PTO Eb aAmond 8S) Meany......<.2--- 4
Doorseote Davin ess ee ee DT ennys VON DYKE. .2.22 8
A New Mountain Country.................. Edward W. Harnden.................... 9
A Bird Day in the Cascades.......Adelaide Lowry Pollock.............. 16
Report of the Botanists....................Dr. Cora Smith Eaton................. 18
WANONGSBOICYE 2s =,
CGIACICT MR CAS 2.5 ee 2 ae Prof. Hdmond 8S. Meany.............. 24
Record of Ascents of Glacier Peak...5. A. Nelsons 12s cece eee 25
The Mountaineers’? Outing.on Glacier: Peale 2.2.0 cioi oc eccce ected ecceeceeeez
TUE IN CUOLELO Ne re oe 29
Legends of the Cascades..................... PROfa We NGI ee ee 40
MA aT Sit se ee ee (EURO ee NUE SO DEY DUN hee eee 44
The Sierra Club Outing to the King’s River Canyon.................002......
Marion Randall Parsons.............. 46
Mapping 4Mt. sRainier (Nationally Park=- 3s) we ee.
HOSE VEQGUNES20 ee 2 53
Great White Hills of God... Rev. Francis J. Van Horn............ 55
Wi SUS EICIONS sat ease ee Be OS HOTSU CS. eee en ee 56
WocalwOmbin es ET eA Ce AME LL Cir: meee eee sae gene 62
Siecesteda Activities: =) =. ae ee: ARTES SAVOCTES ON ae tere ae 70
Outine@ot 19isle fe 2 ee TGS SAR ON(CUS O12 ae oie ea Oe eee 73
INotessolsOtheri@lubss seo Sear ane pee! ese Rie Oo ee 74
IN OCS sire ccse me ees ce ee EE 9M Be Sd ee nee ec ke ee ee ae 77
Reports—
1S OCQNS Wal K:Sameten ateetinss Stee, LIER s ee eee ee a Sa ee end Se 80
OMICETS Bl Gill a9 dale el GU RE ie ee ae oe ee 81
HVveretouMOUuntaineens i see es oe eee ge ee 82
lernofea ryan (Cfaraau cal tsley a ee eS oe ee oe ee 3
SS CCLC LAL ee ee ene eee eee ME ee ae eee en Ne EIT Steely en. Sis 84
Oubin gC OMmmM Ite ce ee ee eee ee enc SN he 85
ALVCAaSUTeE) => Dera 5 Ses A Oe Fe ie on 2 3 hee 86
IMEEM STS Up ie esa ee es ie nv See Nie te eR ee parte en ees eee 87
BibWosraphys Se ee ee eee en ee
Compiled by Helen Gracie.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Glacier Peak ................ Be ee Pot te te Ber A Paen BLS rey acme tee Plate
BGG COlnnmnynns 3 ON Vs GC lACIO Tera cea aces reece eee Piate
Mountains Southeast of Earl Grey Pass..............------2-2-------0<+ Piate
Capra War Grey ass aa cacaece err cece reece core eene tacteensee ae Pilate
Mountains South Earl Grey Pass Fear oS aac Be Sama enen cee oon Plate
Foe, CGlOmMns. “LOD Yy | GlaACKOT ee re eect emt eeene peeeeaeneene Plate
Mountain Smartweed ...... a0 5 Sa ee te eee ce anaee cea eee Plate
Western Mountain Anemone ono isc eoceei ccc ccentecererensee== Plate
MEhite MBOdOGENGTOM: eer are ee Ee DUC
A Crevasse Below the Summit of Glacier Peak.................. Plate
Te CAC INGISOM ate iG ere ee care ccc neae tee nee eeneae Plate
Head -of ther Suiattle Give ecco arene Plate
11 ams EW 0a t= ll Ne ee eS doe eet = See ee Plate
Hast Vidette trom Bullfrog Wiake re. or creo wwe cone eeeceeneeaesaees Plate
Mt. Stanford=and)Jumetion: Peak ee reece reer eee Plate
Bullfrog, Lake from (Charlotte: Tyrael. ot sce: .c2-cecneseeee-e Plate
Wiew from the’ Baserol) Minn: Domes cece eee eee ee oncsce sees Plate
Pack Train? Crossing “Cloudy. Passe crac ssc coe cesece ewes eee Plate
St. Helens “andi Spirit Dialers es Be ence cere eee ree Plate
RP Era RCONIS GILT LON oneness ee eee Plate
Wiew near’ Scenic Hot. Springs... eee Plate
Road Along the Snoqualmie Rivev.......................--...... pas Plate
AlonS ther rail. Of a iu0Cal Walk ee eee Plate
Railroad Creek ....... ie a= Ee Ae a ile GE MRE er oe PES La why ee OF 8 Plate
Ten Peak Mountain from Camp Nelson...........................-.------- Plate
SUD SEIIEC LV OLS fotos) OA aie, tate aie Puke ee hee Plate
Returning from the Summit of Glacier Peak ...................... Plate
RIV TRIT CIRG1 OT ocean ee Pilate
Cedar and Fir in a Washington Forest........ ee eee ee ELLE,
EIT cits 27s (0) C8) Ra a ee ae sae Neer eee ee te Be ad fife)
Lake Chelan a eee eed erie EE EG
XXIT
XXIII
XXIV
XXV
XXVI
XXVII
XXVIII
XXIX
XXX
XXXTI
MVGd UAIOWIO
coispuyy q oly ‘OD oryduaxojoy SUBMIOY IYAPIAdo)
L Id
Greetings:
Henry Van DAunke
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Vetline Zo.
J will send the Club greeting in the words
of Shen's Little Eyolf in final speech of
Allmer in the play... 2... ek
“Upmards —Comards the
Jivaks, tmnards the Stars,
aud tomards the Great
Pilot. ia ae
THE MOUNTAINEER
Vou. III SEATTLE, WASHINGTON, NOVEMBER, 1910
OBJECTS OF OUR CLUB.
By Epmonp S. MEany.
President of The Mountaineers Club.
The Mountaineers Club was organized to climb mountains.
That fact is implied in its name. Every summer the big an-
nual outing is conducted as carefully planned during the pre-
ceding winter. The four annual outings have been successes
on an increasing and encouraging scale—the Olympic Moun-
tains Outing of 1907; Mount Baker, 1908; Mount Rainier,
1909; and Glacier Peak, 1910. The men and women who par-
ticipated in one or more of these outings and who ascended
these great peaks under the banner of our club exceed two
hundred in number.
The above brief and truthful statement would probably
suffice for the ordinary person’s conception of The Moun-
taineers Club and its objects. But that statement falls far
short of conveying an adequate idea of the objects of our club.
In the first place, The Mountaineers Club comprises four
hundred men and women who love the mountains. They also
love the forests and valleys, the rivers, lakes and the bound-
less sea, they love the trees and flowers, the birds and animals,
they love the beauties and wonders of nature, among which
the mountains seem but one sublime manifestation. By seek-
ing the joy of seeing and knowing these beauties they gladly
turn and point the way for thousands of their fellows to see
and know in pure and endless joy.
This is a new country. It abounds in a fabulous wealth
of scenic beauty. It is possible to so conserve parts of that
wealth that it may be enjoyed by countless generations through
the centuries to come as well as by countless individuals of the
present generation who have not learned the way to the hills.
This club is vigilant for a wise conservation and it is also
anxious to blaze ways into the hills that anyone may follow.
6 The Mountaineer
A year ago the ofticers of the club heard that majestic cedar
trees were being illegally destroyed along the wonderfully
beautiful road in the Mount Rainier National Park. It was
being done under the screen of a perfectly sensible contract
permitting the use of dead and down cedar timber. Instantly
agents of the club were sent to the ground who with cameras
obtained evidence that caused the authorities at Washington
City to stop the vandalism. Every reader of these words
should applaud that work for the National Park belongs to
all the people.
For a similar measure of protection this club persuaded
President Roosevelt to proclaim the Olympic Mountains as a
National Monument. There is another immense and beautiful
park that belongs to all the people for all time.
On every outing the club expends much money and labor
in constructing new trails or improving old ones that those
who follow may find and enjoy the same beauties. By ex-
ample, precept and law, where needed, the ciub seeks to pre-
vent forest fires, the destruction of trees, plants, birds and
animals, the pollution of streams, or any other harmful thing
to the wonderful inheritance God has so lavishly bequeathed
to the children of this favored Pacific Northwest.
The Club has a committee at work preparing a card cata-
logue of all the trails in Washington. All helpful information
is to be recorded on the cards so that they will serve any party
planning a trip into forests or hills. It is, of course, an
enormous undertaking but every card completed is that much
gain and years of patient effort ought to bring the catatlogue
near completion. It is proposed to keep this catalogue on file
in the Seattle Chamber of Commerce for the use of the public.
We wish to save old names and to bestow new ones of an
appropriate kind where no names are known. With this in
view we now have a committee at work in cooperation with
the national authorities.
There has also been appointed an Edelweiss Committee
charged with the duty of securing seeds and plants of the
Iidelweiss from the Alps to further beautify the grand peaks
of Washington. This committee will then expand its functions
by establishing in Paradise Valley a garden of mountain
flowers and shrubs such as are maintained by five of the
nations of Europe. Correspondence to this end has already
The Mountaineer r
begun. The work is manifold. There are plants in Alaska
of surpassing beauty that may be brought to our mountains.
One suggestion has been made that this committee may help
cities get squirrels for their parks as has been done in Madi-
son, Wisconsin, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, Richmond, Virginia,
and elsewhere.
3y no means the least of the Club’s activities has been
reserved for the last. The summers are devoted to the annual
outings. The other seasons are occupied with local walks.
Twice each month parties from twenty to one hundred follow
a designated leader on a tramp through the woods and over
the hills. They are not people of any bizarre creed. They
are just nature lovers from all walks of life who seek a whole-
some recreation along paths in the forest or on the shores of
Puget Sound.
Photo by A. H. Cruse
THE PARTY LEAVING CAMP FOR A TRYOUT TRIP
The Mountaineer
DOORS OF DARING.
HENRY VAN DYKE.
The mountains that enfold the vale
With walls of granite, steep and high,
Invite the fearless foot to scale
Their stairway toward the sky.
The restless, deep, dividing sea
That flows and foams from shore to shore,
Calls to its sunburned chivalry
*““Push out, set sail, explore!”
And all the bars at which we fret,
That seem to prison and control,
Are but the doors of daring, set
Ajar before the soul.
Say not, “Too poor,” but freely give.
Sigh not, ““Too weak,” but bodly trv.
You never can begin to live
Until vou dare to die.
—From ““The White Bees and Other Poems.”’
Copyright by Charles Seribner’s Sons.
Pilate. If.
Photo E. W. Harnden
ICE COLUMNS, TOBY GLACIER
The Mountaineer 9)
A NEW MOUNTAIN COUNTRY.
YpwarRD W. HARNDEN.
The editor of the “Mountaineer” asks me for an account of
the doings of the Appalachians this past season. I assume,
modestly, that she refers to the doings of Mr. Gleason and
myself—in which, until the last moment, Mr. Emerson hoped
to join. We had talked of climbs in old Mexico or southwest-
ern Colorado, revisiting the Grand Canyon, ete., and at the last
moment, like Dooley’s “Happy and riochous flea,” we jumped
without preparation or ceremony to the headwaters of the
Columbia, in western Canada. Gleason had a_ little prior
knowledge of the region, but I had listened cynically to his
enthusiastic boosting. I return, however, ready to bore the
Mountaineers and others, myself. So listen to the siren song
of a new, beautiful, unexplored mountain country, almost at
your doors, with the finest peaks in western Canada, most of
them still unclimbed. ‘Dost like the picture?”
Leaving the main line of the Canadian Pacific at Golden,
we boarded a flat, light-draft stern-wheel Columbia River boat
for Athelmer, about ninety miles south and at the head of
navigation. Much is truly said and written about the beauty
of the Columbia and its superiority to the Hudson and Rhine
by people who simply know the river up to The Dalles in Ore-
gon. Its real, transcendent beauty is near its headwaters.
From Golden to Athelmer majestic mountains line the banks—
to the west the Selkirks, to the east the Rockies; and _ the
sinuous course of the stream—while it sometimes causes the
stranding of the steamer on a bar or projecting point from
which it has to be laboriously poled—offers marvelous shifting
vistas into the unexplored and more highly mountainous and
elaciered region a little back from the river. You can travel
by auto or team on the road that threads together the few
small, scattered hamlets at which the boat occasionally stops
to unload a plug of tobacco or something equally important ;
and within a few years, if present plans are carried out, the
10 The Mountaineer
locomotive whistle of what nay eventually be a part of the
main line of the Canadian Pacifie will awaken the mountain
echoes. It is a marvelously beautiful valley, holding out
alluring prospects for the rancher and tourist.
A six-mile trip from Athelmer landed us at our Windermere
village headquarters, on the east shore of Lake Windermere,
the lower of the two Columbia lakes. The village is beautifully
situated on one of the benches. These rise to successive levels
and terrace back into the hills, showing the breadth of the river |
in past ages and the way it has carved these giant steps with
its continually narrowing channel. The even, broad surfaces,
only interrupted by occasional deep-gashed ravines made by
the side streams from the mountains, are sparsely sprinkled at
curiously regular intervals with fine specimens of the Douglas
fir. These are the only trees on the benches, although the
ravines are more or less choked with alders and other small
growth.
Our explorations were to lead us along the side creeks or
tributaries of the Columbia, which form natural gateways for
men and pack animals into the high, backlying Alpine country.
But the thick smoke from the forest fires of Montana, just to
the south—which later prevented a proposed visit to the new
Glacier National Park—enforced two weeks of idleness. We
planned the ascent of an unsealed 10,500 or 11,000 foot peak
of the Rockies, which seemed to offer a splendid viewpoint,
but the blanket of smoke would not lift. A partial clearing
enabled a young rancher and myself to visit the upper Colum-
bia lake, getting a tantalizing suggestion of some magnificent,
precipitous scenery; and near the foot of the lake, on the steep
rock walls of a narrow pass where Indian tradition says the
local Kootenays in the remote past ambushed and overwhelmed
an invading force of the previously dominant Blackfeet, we
found and photographed some ancient Indian pictographs
which evidently recorded the battle. We were also interested
in two Indian praying places near by, where the present-day
braves who pass still deposit small fir branches broken from
neighboring trees as they ride along, keeping up, in spite of
the efforts of the priests, the primitive votive offerings to their
old gods.
Gleason had raved about Toby Creek, a western tributary
of the river which offered an approach to the high, back-lying
The Mountaineer 1]
Selkirks; and finally, heavy rains laying the smoke, we
started with a pack outfit up the stream.
Permanent Fund.
In order to achieve the above results, the common place and eternal
question of finance must first be faced. In this connection the estab-
lishment of a Permanent Fund is urged, the interest only being usable
for advance work. To feed this fund life memberships of say $30
could be authorized. Initiation fees of say $2 could be required and
assigned to this purpose. When the Treasurer’s yearly balance is con-
siderable a small fraction could be voted to the Permanent Fund. The
permanency of such a fund and the seriousness of its purpose would
tend to invite occasional bequests. The Appalachian Club now has
a similar irreducible fund of $11,000.
Property Fund.
The time is coming, as it has already with other mountaineering
clubs, when the Mountaineers will want to build shelter huts on some
of our peaks, or possibly a log bungalow for winter excursions. A
future need is likely to be a club bungalow as conveniently located in
the city as possible. The immediate requirement is a club room.
In order to look forward to something of this sort the starting of a
Property Fund is suggested by setting aside each year 25 per cent. of
the net yearly cash balance.
In conclusion, there can be no more auspicious or convenient sea-
son than this for the Mountaineers to look forward to broader pleas-
ures through more complete development and more serious work. This
is the proper fruit of the strength and the inspiration bestowed upon us
by the clean fresh breezes from the sea, the pines, the snows; and by
the power and the grandeur of our “Great White Hills.” Prof. Meany’s
poem on Mt. Rainier could well be adopted as a personification of
Destiny’s call to the Mountaineers:
“Thou King, in ermine robes of crystal snow,
Lift high thy royal head, serene and proud,”
“A lurefor some in each swift hurrying crowd,
Whose hopes are raised and hearts anew are vowed
To catch like thee, God’s lift and onward throw.”
XXIV.
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RETURNING FROM THE SUMMIT
Plate XXVIII.
Photo by P. M. McGregor
LYMAN GLACIER
XXIX.
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IXXX 29201d
THE MOUNTAINEER
Volume III
OUTING OF 1911, NOTES
OF OTHER CLUBS, OTHER
NOTES, REPORTS, ETC.
November
Nineteen Hundred and Ten
Photo by A. H. Cruse
GLACIER PEAK FROM FLOWER HILL
Speak, speak, ve peak; proclaim the goal;
Reveal thyself; lay bare thy soul!
I hear thy voice roll down thy throne—
“Thou too, art god-like—stand alone!”
A. H. ALBERTSON.
Listen: don’t vou hear the fir trees singing
Sweet and low at dead of night;
Singing, singing, softly bringing
Music from the realms of light.
Listen: don’t you hear the waters falling,
Falling down thru melody;
Falling, calling, gently calling
Other days of reverie.
Listen: don’t you hear new voices speaking,
Speaking truth and mysterv;
Softly, clearly, greatly teaching,
Life grows toward all harmony.
A. H. ALBERTSON.
—_
The Mountaimeer le
MOUNT ADAMS OUTING OF 1911.
L. A. NELSON.
The annual summer outing of the Mountaineers for 1911, will be
to Mount Adams and the Goat Rocks. A general outline of the route
can only be given at this time.
The party will travel from Seattle to White Salmon by train, the
last sixty-five miles being along the Columbia River. Leaving the
railroad here the route is up the White Salmon valley to Trout Lake
then over the Morrison Creek trail to a camp at timberline on the
south side of Mount Adams.
After a few try-outs in visiting the surrounding country the climb
of the mountain will be made. Leaving this camp the trail around
the western side of the mountain will be followed to the north side,
then the party will go north along the summit of the Cascade range
to the Goat Rocks.
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The Mountaineer 81
THE MOUNTAINEERS.
DIRECTORS FOR THE YEAR 1910.
Prof. Edmond 8. Meany, President, 4025 10th Avenue Northeast.
Dr. E. F. Stevens, Vice-President, 1505 East Madison Street.
Charles M. Farrer, Secretary, 522 Pioneer Building.
Frank S. Southard, Treasurer, 55 Haller Building.
Miss Lulie Nettleton, Historian, 1806 Eighth Avenue West.
Asahel Curtis, 627 Colman Building.
L. A. Nelson, 627 Colman Building.
Prof. J. B. Flett, 107 North Tacoma Avenue, Tacoma, Wash.
Miss Alida J. Bigelow, 1139 Eighteenth Avenue North.
Miss Lydia E. Lovering, 23 West Boston Street.
Melvin A. Krows, 924 Third Avenue West.
Grant Humes, Elwha, Wash.
COMMITTEES.
Outing Committee—L. A. Nelson, M. A. Krows, Grant Humes,
Charles M. Farrer.
Local Walks Committee—P. M. McGregor, M. A. Krows, Miss
Winona Bailey.
Publication Committee—Miss Lulie Nettleton, A. H. Albertson,
Lydia E. Lovering.
Program Committee—H. C. Belt, Alida J. Bigelow, W. M. Price.
Miss Anna Howard, Financial Secretary, 1709 Thirty-ninth Avenue.
Phone East 2259.
DIRECTORS FOR THE YEAR 1911.
Prof. Edmond S. Meany, President, 4025 Tenth Avenue Northeast.
Dr. E. F. Stevens, Vice-President, 1505 East Madison Street.
Charles M. Farrer, Secretary, 508 Pioneer Building.
Frank §S. Southard, Treasurer, 55 Haller Building.
Chas. Albertson, Financial Secretary, “The Chelsea.”
Miss Winona Bailey, Historian, 1732 Fifteenth Avenue.
L. A. Nelson.
H. C. Belt.
P. M. McGregor.
Miss Lulie Nettleton.
Roy Hurd.
Dr. H. B. Hinman, Everett.
COMMITTEES.
Outing Committee—L. A. Nelson, H. C. Belt, Dr. E. F. Stevens,
C. M. Farrer.
Local Walks Committee—L. A. Nelson, Roy Hurd, Chas. Albertson,
Dr. H. B. Hinman, Everett.
Publication Committee—Miss Lulie Nettleton, A. H. Albertson,
Helen Gracie.
Program Committee—Wm. H. Gorham, Dr. Cora Smith Eaton, Earl
G. Rice.
82 The Mountaineer
THE EVERETT MOUNTAINEERS.
Dr. H. B. HINMAN,
“The Everett Mountaineers” had their inception in a chance meet-
ing between Mr. Asahel Curtis and the writer at Reese’s Camp, Mount
Rainier, in August, 1909. At that time there were no members of
“The Mountaineers” in Everett.
Immediately upon my return, however, I made application for
membership, and after being elected the idea occurred to me to secure
enough local members, so that we might have walks the same as were
held in Seattle.
How well the plan has been carried out can be judged from the
following facts:
There have been elected from Everett forty members, besides five
from outlying towns tributary to us.
He have held up to date, thirteen local walks, the first one being
the middle of last April. The average attendance at these walks has
been fifteen, but of late it has been about twenty.
We have also held two joint walks with the Seattle Club, which
have been well attended from both places, and very pleasant and
successful affairs.
Also one special outing May 29th and 30th, Decoration Day, with
sixteen attending. We took the Great Northern to MHalford—five
miles above Index—walking back past the Grey Eagle Canyon and
Sunset Falls, and spending the night at Index. The following morning
we went to Reiter and made the climb to Lake Isabel, 2,500 feet above
the railroad. It is generally conceded to be one of the most beau-
tiful mountain lakes in the state, and on the return every one voted
it to have been one of the “red letter days” in their lives.
We have also held a number of social evenings at the homes
of our members, including three stereopticon lectures by Mr. L. A.
The Mountaineer 83
Nelson, in which he showed us the views of the Olympic, Baker, and
Rainier Outings.
Eleven of our members were on the Glacier Peak Outing, nine (9) of
them reaching the summit.
The Board of Directors has granted us a tentative organization
with a Local Committee of Managers consisting of three members.
We think that we have made good, and will do even better in
the future. We trust that some permanent provision may be made
in the charter of the club for local organizations, and that the work
we have started will result in local branches in Tacoma, Bellingham,
Spokane and other points throughout our state.
H..B. HINMAN,
Chairman Local Committee
Everett, Wash.
REPORT OF THE PROGRAM COMMITTEE.
Programs for the Meetings of the Past Year.
December 17, 1909—Mr. Jas. F. Illingworth of the Broadway High
School, on the “Color of Birds” illustrated by many stuffed s eci-
mens, showing the wonderful adaptation in color of various birds
to their particular needs.
January 21, 1910—Mr. W. Francis Newell on “Central America, the
Country and its People,” illustrated by stereopticon views taken
by the speaker while he was a consul in that country.
February, 18, 1910—Mr. Eugene Ricksecker on “Roadmaking in the
Mt. Rainier National Park,’ with views and much valuable in-
formation of the work past, present and intended in that line.
March 18, 1910—Prot. E. S. Meany on “The Mountains of Washing-
ton,” telling of the surprising number of high mountains in the
state, how they received their names, and the legends connected
with them.
April 15, 1910—Mr. Corwin S. Shank on ‘Hawaii and Japan,’ show-
ing many pictures of natural scenery in those countries taken far
away from the usually traveled routes.
May 20, 1910—Hon. J. T. Ronald on “The Glacier Peak Country,”
interspersed with many beautiful descriptions and amusing inci-
dents connected with that country.
October 21, 1910—Mr. L. A. Nelson, on the “Glacier Peak Outing,”
illustrated with the many pictures taken by Messrs. Denman,
Cruse, Lindsley, Albertson, Gorham, Gleason, McGregor, Hinman
and Nelson on the last summer’s outing.
November 18, 1910—Prof. Trevor Kincaid on “Animal Aviators,”
showing the various provisions for flight in the different species
of birds.
Respectfully submitted,
BeCe Barr
Chairman.
S4 The Mountaineer
SECRETARY’S REPORT.
The past year has been a most prosperous and interesting one
for The Mountaineers. The number of members in good standing
has increased over 50 per cent. The walks and outings have been
particularly pleasant and well attended and the outside work of
the club quite comprehensive and for the most part, productive of
results.
By the help of a very enthusiastic Everett member, an auxiliary
club was organized in Everett, thereby adding 48 members to our
rolls. Their program of walks, printed on the general notices has
resulted in a very pleasant and profitable intercourse. .
In addition to other work we carried on a campaign for more
and better roads and trails in the Mt. Rainier National Park and
for appropriations to maintain the present roads, a matter that
had been entirely overlooked by Congress. Along this line, our ef-
forts have been directed towards obtaining an appropriation for the
survey of a road around the mountain, skirting the glaciers at as
high an altitude as possible and with a maximum grade of 8%. Such
a grade would make it possible to reach many points of great inter-
est, not otherwise attainable. We urge that a trail be constructed
along the line of such a survey, with the first money available, so
that all sides of the mountain would be accessible at a comparatively
early date. Later and as more money became available, this trail
could be gradually widened to a road.
We are indebted to many of our friends and to kindred and com-
mercial organizations for their prompt offers of aid and also sug-
gestions for obtaining the necessary legislation to carry out this
plan. Also to Senator Piles and Congressman Humphrey for their
prompt assistance. We hope that this friendly help will be con-
tinued in the future until the results obtained will be in some
measure commensurate with the merits of the most splendid moun-
tain in the United States.
A short but strenuous and successful campaign was carried on
in the spring to curtail the activities of a shingle bolt company who,
having in some manner obtained a permit to cut dead and down
cedar in a portion of the Rainier National Park, were cutting and
slashing everything in sight, without a protest from anyone.
Our active interest in the naming of points of natural beauty in
the state and particularly in the neighborhood of Mt. Rainier, was
recognized by an invitation from Mr. Francois E. Mathes of the
U. S. Geological Survey, on behalf of the government, for representa-
tives of the club to meet him and discuss this subject.
Being greatly interested in the preservation of the wild animals
and birds of the state, The Mountaineers will maintain an active
interest during the coming session of the legislature, in obtaining
the enactment of a law absolutely prohibiting any further killing of
mountain goats.
We were highly pleased by the generosity of Mr. Robt. Moran,
who notified the club that he was prepared to donate to the state
eighty acres of land near the summit of Mt. Constitution, providing
The Mountaineer S85
the state purchased the actual summit adjoining, for the use of the
public as a park.
An active campaign will be carried on with this object in view
and all other organizations interested in preserving such beauty
spots to the public, are urged to cooperate.
CHARLES M. FARRER,
Secretary.
Your Auditing Committee has compared the financial accounts
of the Secretary with his vouchers and find the comparison to be
correct.
The accounts show $181.66 received and $65.70 expended. The
balance of $115.96 is in the hands of the Treasurer.
Respectfully submitted,
CHAS. ALBERTSON,
C. G. CLARK,
Harry B. Lear,
Auditing Committee.
To the Board of Directors of The Mountaineers:—
I submit the following report of the finances of the Glacier Peak,
Lake Chelan Guting:
EECEIDLS SELOManthe SOUL Ses ee. ee ee $2,641.25
Bills’ receivable: ...--........- if bab ee Nay Se gee Ge: BETAS
A039 G25) Bee eee ea epee See eo eI eer Tae - $2,645.00
Disbursements :—
EREANSHOTtAGION! 2) i ee eee BOLO
PTOVISIONS) 2225-2... /-=- Ta ae a ant BN eae eee 618.53
PaACKIN e222 = ee ee et rit a ere ee Oe (2
C@ookss =... tin pete eee : So ghee eh FA 100
Preliminary trips: 2222.2. —.2 ; ee 12.05
IPROSDECUUSS 252 ste ese ; : oF een ee 2d 38.20
COMmMmMisSaAry. 22-5) eee 1. Se ee 63.25
Alig) | Rasy > ee eee ; a 25.00
General Expense — x ro i ee ee 87.99
Ota 2 .2e3 Ee see ; ae: = . $2,318.44
INGE Galil <3. ok ee er base aa earn . $ 326.56
L. A. NELSON,
Chairman Outing Committee.
Your Auditing Committee has compared the financial account of
your Outing Committee, Mr. L. A. Nelson, Chairman, with the vouch-
ers and find the comparison to be correct.
The accounts show receipts from the Glacier Peak Outing of $2,674.56
and expenditures of $2,502.18. The balance of $172.18 is in the hands
of your Treasurer. Respectfully submitted,
CHAS. ALBERTSON,
C. G. CLARK,
Harry B. Lear,
Auditing Committee.
86 The Mountaineer
TREASURER’S REPORT FOR 1909-1910.
Recepits :—
Dr. E. F. Stevens, Treasurer... i ee ee ee $ 110.81
C. M. Farrer, Secretary S yee ante 8.00
Rainieris Fe Chine. oat ee eta ee 2 Se ee an 23.65
Advertising and sale of Magazines............. rie ts 49.77
1908-9 Local Walks and East Sound Outing................ : 84.55
USGS" Outline? Committee ete te ee a Be
Hinancialeseeretary, \GUGs* = ee ee ee ele 799.00
TIM XO ET WW ial Daye ee eh SS ee Se eee ne Panes ea 140100
Glacier Peak Prospectus and Preliminary Trip... 78.20
C. M. Farrer, Secretary, dues........ Sede Bese Boe Pa Taco! 87.99
Total pRECEIDIR Ges ee eet Bn oe 2 > © oe eee
Disbursements :—
Gooods stolen from A.-Y.-P. Exhibit.............................. $ Men
FON. IGNIGUIEe tan SUP PICS) sass eae ce eos. ok eos ke ee 42.20
Addressing and mailing Notices, etc............................ 19.59
Glacier Peak Prospectus and preliminary trip... 78.20
Erintin ean gis StALIONGT Ys c- t40 eet 2 ee 66.70
Wiring for lantern service ................ Se Oe 5 Pet . 16.00
SLOreopLiconssudes-and ‘supplies. 2.2. ec 62.15
Final payment on Annual for 1909... Pare ey eS)
Timber cutting trips (two), Mt. Rainier...................... 34.10
TV CT ONC eee ee ee en en eed Ree ead ee AS 18.25
ECT VO ae eee ek ed ne oe i 28.25
Financial Secretary ..........:..--...:.- Ae EL eR, 40.00
Rota tiSworseinomta ee ee OL. eee op ee 538.45
Balance in Seattle National Bank, Nov. 14, 1910........ $1,086.34
Outing Fund balance, Bank of California, Nov. 14, 1910........$ 172.18
Balance from P. M. McGregor, 1909-10 Local Walks....... = 26.50
Balance from Charles M. Farrer, Secretary, dues, etc. iE 27.97
otal Gash 10n UDand-siNOvs 18, 1900s. 2.. 2. ce ee Silesia
Respectfully submitted,
FRANK S. SoUTHARD,
Treasurer.
Your Auditing Committee has compared the accounts of your Treas-
urer, Mr. Frank S. Southard, with the vouchers and find the comparison
correct.
The accounts show receipts of $1,851.44 and expenditures of $538.45.
This leaves a cash balance of $1,312.99.
Of this balance $1,140.81 is deposited in the Seattle Nattional Bank
in the name of The Mountaineers. The Outing Fund balance is in
the Bank of California in the name of The Mountaineers Outing Com-
mittee and amounts to $172.18.
Respectfully submitted,
CuAs. ALBERTSON,
C. G. CLARK,
Harry B. Lear,
Auditing Committee.
The Mountaineer
MEMBERS OF THE MOUNTAINEERS.
* Indicates the members who participated in the
** Indicates Honorary Members.
IDC Elee Vises seen eet ee 422 Colman Bldg.............
ANCE TITEE E15 a eee ee ee Roome222, City Hall]
SAIpertson,, As E2223. 12 Henry—side
=Albertson. Chas =.2....2--. tt: sHeniry, (Bldes— =e
Allen, Edward W............... 402. Burke Bldg............. Ke
PACH CIDP AS, c Wis vazce8 oa tee 203 Collins Bldg ==
JSTRTISE Ea aes Sse ee Oe ee NET
Athen eVireinia, hs 1419 Boylston Ave...
PC KITISON = WWE: oe 22 IB OXe A Gee ee ee es
is GN 50 GL eens ei ete eRe a Rees cae eee ee eee
Glacier Peak Outing.
Seattle, Wash.
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‘er se
Anacortes, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
“ec “ec
.Lake Ballinger, Wn.
Badeieys,. Chas; Gis. 2.2 White. Blds =e as Seattle, Wash.
iBaley wArtnur Au 1610 Hewitt Ave............. Everett, Wash.
Bailey, Bernice E............... Zia © COATES eee He a
1542 IGS D5 ie ae ae eT ca Eg Pe a La Conner, Wash.
~Banley.. WinOnd, 22-2 2:..-:-.--: 1732 Fifteenth Ave........ Seattle, Wash.
Baird aoadie shy. 22 3016 Colby Ave................. Everett, Wash.
et OT Wien Ghats. Sek eh ZO 2eCOlipye Aver ES cf
*Baldwin, Dr. Margaret.....23 W. Boston St.............. Seattle, Wash.
mS Apele. els Mayes 2s fe: £920) Third eAsvex We. ce ae
Barnes; 3DriS: Ds. 22. 306 Arcade Bldg............. es
Bathurst, Katharine __. LO 425 cee Any sete < ie
SVs ComMVT SAW ices etc Ba oe A nga 21e By Kirkland, Wash.
Bedton; Jessie. =... 21 72.:: 604 N. 44th St._.......... Seattle, Wash.
AB eli METS: aH So tesa. 2 Ase 414 16th Ave; N........_. is ae
=] BY eM Ep Be Op eee a ee eam ee AVA AGthi “Ave; IN 2. He
IBeStae OMNs Acer dite es SEATING: SPADES Se = es se
Biselow, Alida -2..2...22.0. tS Oeste Acer sN se Seattle, Wash.
Eons Virsa KANT Seni ten cP ES Peace Se ete are Monroe, Wash.
TBirieto be QO Itop ae tel OLR ie ame ee yee Os ETS et nee ND eae eee es se
Blanchard ws Ae ee Set SEP AtVOSmIN Gs oe Seattle, Wash.
Blanchard, Irene —__........ Sw ills AvielsN secs. = A: =
Solar sh Teds Jet ot TOM ISteA Ve... oe fe sf
BESLO CSOT ee As ce Serre ee et nh Snohomish, Wash.
Bioush Allie: 2 ee 122 Wie DO Lae Sue Seattle, Wash.
IB OLLOM I CArrie este ee seeks. ee A Pe oad eee NS er Chico, Wash.
Brayton; Annie? 222.222: PAPA D poate. U0 ch ys eae Seattle, Wash.
Brayton, Fannie E. ...........- ANE Syilvalle St Bellingham, Wash.
Broesamle, Anna _........._.. 1612 Boylston Ave......... Seattle, Wash.
Brown, Sidney 22222503 WaldonieAptss 2 an en cy
Browning, Lena M............ 219 Cloverdale, 22---—>- = As
Burke, Hon. Thomas ........ 1004 Boylston Ave. N..... ie ai
(7 4)
(o'6)
The Mountaineer
Burkhart Mary <4. Pele MET OWT AWIC.s een e Everett, Wash.
BUG Wall eee Box 206, University Sta.Seattle, Wash.
Burtis, Bennet H.............5249 University Blvd... “ i
Calkins ,Eumicevas =. 52414 Broadway .............seattle, Wash.
*Cameron, Christine .......... DOIMCRGT Re ee Tacoma, Wash.
Carkeek, Arthur ..............427 E. Denny Wav.......... Seattle, Wash.
Carter, Gertrude ................ 621) JacksonSt:.....-— Portland, Ore.
Challacompb:N Bs. 2601) Hoyt St... Everett, Wash.
Chalmers, D. Dunean........ Hotel Kennedy .............Seattle, Wash.
Chapman, FE. L. . See S TE SE MOMALVCt DW suerte eee re age
Chatterton, H. I. £. 2 = V0 MeO VAc....8. 2 se Everett. Washes
Chesterman, Ethel ...........--02:-.22.--2--- : . ...sioux City, Iowa.
Church) thos: J... PTE ld oe eo ee Seattle, Wash.
City, bditor 2 = Post-Intelligencer .......... oe os
City Editor _.. Bee ee NO SOLA Tees eee cee i
Ciby A diton see Ne wim eGee ee ee
City Editor _. _.......The Week-End ...... eee ;
Clark Anabel <22.= ASE tach Aces ANG Bic
Glarks CaG-2=. = = b0S: Melrose™ Ave:..-:.-- :
Clark, Mrs. C. G. ..............508 Melrose Ave.............
Clarke Dorcas) We 2 229) Raeker Aver... 2. Everett, Wash.
+ Clark sliverett) 22) 2.22 2129 Rucker A:ve............. Y a
*Clark Irvine; Vi 2 402) Burke Biden .:....... Seattle, Wash.
Clank. Dr elieWien 22s. OO USeENOR: Bae rs Con... ~ 5:
*Coenen, A. Margaret........ 3200 N. Union Ave.......... Tacoma, Wash.
Wolo lini Cyn aes ees eee The Knickerbocker —_... Seattle, Wash.
Coles Vannien Mies os 2412 Baker Ave.............Everett, Wash.
Collins, Emma L. ..............702 Minor Ave................Seattle, Wash.
Collins oi -eb pe 3 eee eae a 916 Third Ave ¥ -
WOME eile) ieee a8 TELG rust: (Ole eck.
Corbet. Darrah 618 Mutual Life Bldg. ss
@oreyenG. ws ee EO OMANIST RANE IN.. Diccacs2-
Cottrell, Bessie ................. SU Aes TMA Cs oss Ki ¢
Cox, Mary Virginia .........1657 Bellevue Ave......... . -
CTAVEN) tAtwd | see ote 120 Garden St...................Bellingham, Wash.
Cresap, Trella Jane............ The Chelsea ............ ARS Seattle, Wash.
Crickmore, Mrs.Minnie M.1133 33rd Ave. S............. sy fe
FGMISe Ace el ese ee G() Gienvewan ites Gre eA esate - =
Culmer: Myrtle’ G. ..2....2... 1415 Boren Ave............... de oe
Curtis; “Asahels «.-2.<2:2-2.-2.4. 627 Colman Bide...........- ‘- “e
Curtis, Mrs. Florence........ HG Go OUDAsVC esto cee + “
Dabney, + Brame, sc2. ance 618 1st Ave. W....... .... Seattle, Wash.
Daugherty, Rose ...... ....1460 20th Ave....... A pre 2
Davidson, Ore r wo. {Ra} rel Biol opb a=) Meo b=ey eee eee ee i:
Davis, Fidelia G. ................ City Engineer’s Office... “ ,
Day.tonmiGlara. AS vc...2-.ccce0 LoL HowellaSts-....2...-<. - -
Dean; MME HIGHOL, <. ocssnc. eins: BOs S00 pce see ea oe Bie’ a
De Graff, Lois..................1505 E. Jefferson St...... “ Aes
*Denman, A. H. ....................500 Nat. Bnk. of Com.....Tacoma, Wash.
' The
Devereux, Mildred —.......... 2216 Hoyt Ave.............
Donoghue, lucy -22-.....-..- 122 13th Ave. .. —
Dowling, Evaline ............ #8 Bells Court...
WD UMIMeTE, Is An 22s: 309 Boylston Ay. N.
Dunlap, Winnifred E........422 Colman Bldg.......
*Haton, Dr. Cora Smith...... 1629) 14th: Ave. 2c...
HDETSOVG SECS Re ee 3112 Rockefeller Ave.
HckertasHilmensH. -22.2- 2110 Blaine St...
Ederer, Arthur F. ...........812 Lowman Bldg..........
Weane Blanche: da. 2.22... 1207 E. Howell St... .
Mimer. Maude Vi. -2.2.2:- 1712 Summit Ave.....
BMersonaG. 1s ee ae ls) ‘Beacon (St...
plese Hranike, see es 1283 Tth Ave. W...:-
Wpler; Mrs) Hranks... 2). 1233-7th Ave. W..........
IESDIC To ait Hiss no eee DOS teAWes Wire
EDICT eIMITSs Weokln 2 =O oO Ste AcVe. Whe.--s
Fahnestock, John N...... City Engineer’s Office
Fairbrook, Lloyd F.......... 1521 Grand Ave...........
2hareo, ucile H. ....2..--1014 Madison: St...
Harrer, Chas, Mi); 22:22... 21624 8th Aves Wi...
Harner, Peyton M2. 4. 508 Pioneer Bldg........
merrees INitavd: 22022 253 1415 Boren Ave...........
Field, Frederick C.......... A406 Yesler Way..........
ECtE Ee LOr tines 0% N= Dacomar Ave...
Fontron, Mabel ou
ORS Vile Osis ee ee a
Hoxe Clare: =<. +e
Mountaineer
..496 Arcade Bldg.....
Box 105
The Chelsea
Everett,
Seattle,
_Everett,
Seattle,
“
Seattle,
Everett,
Seattle,
“
“ec
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Boston,
Seattle,
_. Seattle,
Everett,
_. Seattle,
Tacoma,
S9
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
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Mass.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
Wash.
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Wash.
_..Seattle, Wash.
Eee tac PON Va ee Castle Rock,
Wash.
_ Seattle, Wash.
Brankhinee > MileeA 25 a 4042 Brooklyn Ave......... MY
Hranksdlin: WailltH 22. 4042 Brooklyn Ave......... ,
Fevers SAWICG 2-25.22: 5 oe The Madison®.-..02 032. er
Kuld, Mrederick ©5.222. 406 Yesler Way................ a
ATEN UII esl ey = pee ee eae 405 Colman Bidg............ Ss
Burry. Mabel) 2222s 174 Highland Drive........ oy
Callie Eh Ora) iE sere eee EMO iid. Uli AtviC ae ee Seattle, Wash.
Gardner, Mrs. N. W.......... DO Sie Aus Ete ee Hy Dee oe =
Canvine Cora 32. = 115 Bellevue Ave. N.......
Gavett, Prof. Geo. I..........5252 16th Ave. N. E...... = as
Gupson, Himilliys He Acta 4-Ghe Awer = 2 *
Gaibsony Wydia) Tu: -620 Olympic Place..........
Gilbreath, Rose ................ Hotel Rexmere, B’dw’y ‘“
micleason; (Chase Or... GsseburkesBldes *
BGleaSon, RUC 22. We 3de 6theAWwes Wee y
Gordan, Elizabeth —_.. BOxe4 gi Sree as ae. Ses Port Orchard, Wash.
*Gorham, Kathleen ............ 612 Malden Atve......:...... Seattle, Wash.
BGornams) Wis He 22--=..-502 Malden Ave: 2... > e
SGOLtOnN, sMred: QQ. -:225-2. 400 PomtEste- E Ss
Gould; Jasper’ M.2.2-- 3201 “Pine St.....-.2.......2verett,, Wash.
mG Tracie, wHeCLen: -.22c<2-2--28- 2s
Grant, Geo. D
..2402 EH. Union St
Seattle, Wash.
ve
90
*Hagman, Reuben J.............
Haley, L.
Haller, Theodore N......
Hanford, Clarence ....
Hanna, Ina M.......
Hanson, Olaf ..
Hard, Mary L............
*Hastinges,; H. K.; Jr.
Havens; Jessie: [2-4
*Heil, Elizabeth
Helsell, Frank P.......
Hessmer, John .....
nldreyh eda) een ee AD he Bie eA ohhh ee eee
En Shirai Ree aese oe OIG HR UCker Aves. =
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FELTING O VOT! GV Vis. saat ee noe Mee ee Be heal
*Hinman Drs He Be.
*Hinman, Mrs. H. B
Hocking Kate wis 2:
*{Hotman sr sWaekes
Holland, Annie BE. ............6002 24th Ave. N. W.....
Holland Janeen le. 427 Pacific Blk.................
Hopkins, Mrs. Carolyn F...1416 E. Madison St...
Howard: sCiGe sees DY OV =¥0( O46 hee rgas eet aie Pe
Howard, Grace E................
Howard, sHenty =o
Hoy, Mary
The Mountaineer
=.606' Minor’ Atve:...-....:.
..-1103
The Glencairn _.... -
617 Barrister’s Hall
1209 E. Madison St..
--1413 Queen Anne Ave...
= BOX. son!
Bsa Feo Neal Oop) + ray ae
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60GeAlaSka Bldcee =
= 70939 tn eA Were
OOPS tn AVC
...-(20 Boylston Ave. N......
umes. Grant 2
2444 Harvard Ave. N...
eee ee eee eee GOS INS 49th St...
a La BS} ea be fie) oly \yi(c tena eee
646Haller-Bldev = =.
Seattle, Wash.
Mt. Vernon, Wash.
“ee “ ad
Seattle, Wash.
: Summit Ave...........
..-1402 N. 41st St.......
4545 Brooklyn Ave.......
-----------1708 Harvard Ave...
Hargrave, Margaret D.......
Harnden, Edward W. ........
Hartmann Cs gies eee
Hartimane JODNM ete se. ae:
EL ASUINES see me Aes ser eer
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Seattle, Wash.
Everett, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
Everett, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
Granite Falls, Wash.
Everett, Wash.
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Seattle, Wash.
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iShheoh wigs (CP late ee ee MG OM GEM A Cerrar ec oc st
Hutchinson, Arthur H.....1401 2d Ave............. $s i Ye
*Hutchinson, Minnie .......... Stratford Hotel. —.......... Tacoma, Wash.
Hyland, Meda V................. 4032 Burton Place.......... Seattle, Wash.
irish Velivis wee oe WOOO Cobb Bide. 2... Seattle, Wash.
Pe TNS rab ame Ma is So cctancacdccsccctencsseseues deusestdc<2/0.0-s.. OhTy Stal: Sprineamwae
echt =aer Uo anes Sa ae ee rete AiO PeViele yas hake ceacoreseedok Seattle, Wash.
Amie UOUISC? se<2 ocho ATOM VU Ge tSS y cc ce iecee oe ceascs $$
*Jones, Nancy Emerson......711 E. Union St............... ce se
JONES, sive pele te eek ees. OBSHING OLS Ur brig, ctor cece. oe if ¥
The Mountaineer 91
Joyce, Maurice D............... 1815 Hewitt Ave......... ..Hiverett, Wash.
iid Ges Siege es as 15 SB OLENy Aver eee Seattle, Wash.
Judson, Katherine B....._.. 1708 Harvard Ave........... ss «S
IeCabin aah jWeetes en ae 14 W. Harrison St.........Seattle, Wash.
EG aye Nee ee eee NORCO AWC sa oe Everett, Wash.
Kellett: Gladys) = --) = 1609 E. Columbia St.......Seattle, Wash.
*Kellett, Susanna _............... 1609 E. Columbia St... hi
Ser SH anwar Alli COut= eee = LO Ano Ua ANC nee ees
*Kiess, Grace Margaret. 1413 Queen Anne Ave...
Rinney= al) Wee ee 2108 Rucker Ave............. Everett, Wash.
Kleemeyer, Tillie M......... 1627 Bellevue Ave.......Seattle, Wash.
Koller, Emma H...............2608 Rockefeller Ave....Everett, Wash.
SKervhnenin Wess se 423 E. Mercer St............Seattle, Wash.
Krippaehne, Anna ............ 424 Globe Bldg.......... sn Sk 5
PESTO WS te VEC LV nit cAn eae. ee ee Be 5p een Sitka, Alaska.
*Krows, Mrs. Melvin A.__.. Ree or OR Se Ty Sa ee ae *
Landes, Prof. Henrvy.......... 4503 Brooklyn Ave......... Seattle, Wash.
Slieare Evan yi be ae ees University State Bank.. se cs
*Leckenby, Mollie E.......... Seattle Gen’l Hospital... “
AGI Sleyaalas see. oa eae nee SE es ear Lakeside, Wash.
TM AViCRS ahs ee 420 Regent Apts............. Seattle, Wash.
=Woverino: laydia Bs... ZONE DOSCOMMS tee eee SS “s
Baer TV LIN PaO Tay Win SL) Sok ose see acon ee eR Bas ee el Walla Walla, Wash.
MacAllister, Josephine E. Hotel Lenox _.................. Seattle, Wash.
McCarney, Margaret ........ Fauntleroy Park _.......... a ut
McConnel, Mary HE. ............ 1630 Blaine Blvd....... ae
McCormick. J: 4B.) 1606A Belmont Ave.......
aIViecDamielss, We t-2 Columbia; Stas cs
MGHiwamns Ax. Hits ose 1409 Madison St...............
McEwen, Mrs. A. J............ ThexChelseaw = *§ és
*MacFarland, Winifred ...... St. Helen’s Apts............... Tacoma, Wash.
=VicGrecor. 2. Me CobbeBldsa == a= Seattle, Wash.
MeEEUISh Heber 629 New York BIkE......... s §
MacInnes, Leonora A......... 4747 18th Ave. N. H....... - os
MICK CG EC El ees ee es 605 Minor Ave................. f ,
Marr, Hy Tsabella 22 1716 Boylston Ave.......... Seattle, Wash.
=Martins Angelica) =... Bord 95 sie ee eee Everett, Wash.
SVMeanyaerot. Beas. 4025 10th Ave. N. E....... Seattle, Wash.
Meany, Thomas Mercer....4025 10th Ave. N. E....... a
Merrill A> ROseT see Gees Ge ACY Cree a ee ‘s
Miller; cAnmnay Hye 16Z6etothe Aves === a ee
MillseiSlake Ws ses 938 220 -AvewINe =. <2)... y 5
Mills, Mrs. Blake D........... 938-220: Ave Nea.
Mooers,.ben C2225 1007 Boren Ave. _..........
Moore, Elizabeth -........2... 4032 Burton Place... _. Bs
Moore, Lloyd S..................- The Chelsea, sh. 4
VIO TAs EOD CT ato ee cee ee Sea st Rosario, Wash.
92 The Mountaineer
Morrill Sayre ree ao L. Li. Moore -Co........ Seattle, Wash.
MOLGTISON ME te ee 762 Bellevue Ave. N....... *s >
Morse, vA lice An eee 1712 Summit Ave.. vt =
IW RICCI Ohl S Eee eie Seen 1711144 Hewitt Ave........Everett, Wash.
NYE 77:7, cl Depa Vice Wns 2 ee ees ee 1711144 Hewitt Ave. ef a
Nation, Arthur C..............1214 Madison St...............Seattle, Wash.
Nelsont hsb sso eee Associated Press _. a ro
* Nelsons aA: nea 627 Colman Bldg.
*Nettleton, Jessie —.............. 1806 8th Ave. W.
*Nettleton, Lulie —............... TRO GSSthy Awe Wi:
INGWILO TM Bin) 6 Bee es ee A ea ee Re an Snohomish, Wash.
Noel Blanch. ss: LAS Broadway Seattle, Wash.
NordellsAnnay. =. = ...4742 15th Ave. N. E...... sc cs
NVexoRODCLG (hist tas Ss ee Sk eee Snoqualmie, Wash.
Oalkiley7 hnola pes TL PAPAL NYE ASS) ol aan} epeeeee ee ee Seattle, Wash.
FOakieys June =.= ==. - 1722 W. 59th St....... Rag os
Oakley, Mary 22.2 2 122 W: 59th St:
O} Connell Dr: aw (O0“CobpeBide 22:
Orton, Dds core ees ee Ohio State University...Columbus, Ohio.
Palmer, Kimball B............. Side Minor Aves = 2: Seattle, Wash.
Parsons) ieee sss se a as BOE Ger eee oe San Francisco, Cal.
sal SPC) OPINED i Ie Ward le tat Ee cele a Ren ies ORR cee Sree ere Bee se Chico, Wash.
Patton, Gypsie N..._............3001 N: 24th St.............Tacoma, Wash.
Payne Roger 2. 5-2 710114 ith Ave... Seattle Wash:
*Paine, S. E..........................2020 Wetmore Ave........Everett, Wash.
Perley, Mary L............. ..L712-Summit Ave..........- Seattle, Wash.
Peterson. Jas) Ajo ...2922 3rd Ave. W........ % «
12) FEA neh oe ol ae \\ eae eee 4840 Lowman Drive... :
Pollock, Adelaide L........... W. Queen Anne School.
Prati rank, Wp es oc 4319 10th Ave. N. E......
TICO We cst tae ee eee oe 524 1st Awe: S:.:..2:.2.. 2 sy
Price, Mrs. W. M...... = bee dstAvie: S:.:; : is
PUT ss ELGLOM wees. esac IBORMO ZS ee omens ao ss
Ramaker, Nellie D............. SiO bth Aven terete Seattle, Wash.
Rathbun, Louise ...............515 Boren Ave....... : fe s
Raymond, Madge) Hi .31546 Ist ‘Ave. IN....2--. — uf
Raymond, R. W.................848 Central Bldg.. 4
*Reed, Bertha E...................Board of Public Wks.....
RGEC Win ene ere teens The 335 Orato LS cP eee ee 33 Us
Remer7Amnna: (25.42.28: Bell’s Court .....t..............Everett, Wash.
Reynolds, Clara P.....2..-c18L) 17th Ave...... .....seattle, Wash.
TCO, MAT Gre Se ee eee 53314 New York BIk.. ss
RODOLESS Lote este oan aoe DUO? Loud AALVEl ING K..2.5. ae a
Roberts; erot. MM... 22.2.2. 4505 15th Ave. N. E.... .
PROBS IW Ace 2 es ee es wk Room 201 King St. Sta.. : es:
HORS OLE. We A ee ce eo. 625 12th Ave. N............. A «
Rouse, Elizabeth ................ PARTE ORY Oh ok BS | ie eer eee cs iL
The
Salishunyee rane ee eee ee oe
reall avonahs. MC 81D astern ween 1647 20th Ave.......
Sanford seed ase 819 Malden Ave...
Savage, Henry T.22_........ 212 23d Ave. N...
Scholes, Emma D............... TUS SOR ID Shes ee =
SS CHOLESSe. ha eee eee OCR SOs St
TOCHOLESS S Lela ee (OSES On lem SG ee
Schoregge, Jo M................. 3400 Rainier Ave...
Schumaker, Katherine _
Schwager, Mrs. Lewis
101 1st Ave. N
Mountaineer
_.Clinton, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
-Tacoma, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
Schwartz, ROSe 23. 212 Pioneer Bldg..... Ese
Searlessa bs hse oe 2812 Rockefeller Ave.....
Sedgwick, Helen F............. CAL OPMENO Vite Acvie res —
Sherwood, Floca C.......-.2407 Everett Ave...
Simmons, Mima. 2.2 iZ2eWeoothast.se se
Simonds, Emma R..........306 Bellevue Ave. N
Sipprell J. 232 c/o Sherman-Clay Co
Smith, Mrs. Florence...
Smith, Victor Hugo
c|o Smith Drug Co.
1208 Boylston Ave...
Everett, W
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Everett, Wash.
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Seattle, Wash.
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Everett, Wash.
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Seattle, Wash.
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Seattle, Wash.
Everett, Wash.
Washington, D. C.
Seattle, Wash.
Everett, Wash.
Seattle, Wash.
Portland, Ore.
_.Everett, Wash.
SUT AC Te, 1 Wye] Whee oes sseeeee ad City Engineer’s Office..
Syn a Sh LO ee Sw Bs ASS th Aves...
SSOuthaAnds, Mrank es: eet NG Selo GheeAwies = eee =
*Spafford, Erle G...............Houston School ......
Sparks; cAngvie: Dies 2. 1909 Rockefeller Ave.
SHOW Ose WN 1D Pg Oe eae 2122) Rucker! Awe 2:
Spaulding, Marion A......... 1909 Rockefeller Ave...
Springer, Alice: 2.522) ES One ol OG heeAGyiC =e
Staem pili, Alice 23:2 Otel Miaiyaee ==
StalberseAcas ree oe ee ees 27 Colman Dock......
Sterrett, Nellie B............... 1515 Boren Ave.........
Stevens, Drab Ra 1505 E. Madison St.....
+Stevenss Ts Hwee seme 1505 E. Madison St.
Strawbridge, B. A............... 405 Colman Bldg.......
*Stream, M. Catherine.......305 City Hall_........
Streator, Gertrude ~........... 1427 15th Ave...
StrykersGeo! Wr) Re eo Oe 5 ie ;
SIA, IDOWINS: So ee ee 2120 ist Ave. N.....
SCN bE IDE Sse ee 259 Colman Bldg.....
SVIVEStC Ae isan te ee ee ey ee dee eed AS
HU GT Vios (eta so ot See Wi02Z=. Hs 65thy St.
aHOMAS Heel eA ee eee LOZAGeGihwAsvier = ae.
BHOnTaSs VS EL we Nese 4115 12th Ave. N. E
Thompson, Anna M........... 2607 Everett Ave..........
hompsonh) by ee 603 13th Ave. N. W
Thompson, Maude .............. LOZSsUMOne S bee
Thornpinrss Dele 1631 Rucker Ave.....
AMoeboal, Wiphcivoysh. oo 5 hee. The Chelsea ............
Mard-srankise . 2s eee 724 Electric Bldg........
Tidballh yee ee Colby Bldg.
+Torrey, Brittanial Ge 2414 Hoyt Ave...
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94
*Torrey, Mrs. Helena J
*Tuttle, Gladys
Vane Horn] (Reve ade
Van Horn, Robert
Wizeant.s hae en re ee
Wahlman, Hulda .
Walker, Maude E.
Wamsley, May
Wampler, Anna M.
Way, Jack
Way. Mires Me Po...
Way, W. W. .....
Welch, Geo. ...
Welch, Ida
Wells, BE. H.....
Welsh, Eunice V.........
NWWGSE.. VV ee ee
West, Bertha
White, Aleria -
Whitehead, Rhea
Wick, Martha M..
The Mountaineer
S47 ThakeAwe.-. 5.5226 Grand Rapids, Mich.
Se Suan een re Me. LS, Ses Nad es Nampa, Idaho.
923 James St........ ees ee Seattle, Wash.
..923 James St... : oh *
RPA O bye rene VN he at ee * ss
022 Belmont Ave. N....... Seattle, Wash.
=.620 Olympic’ Place.=..... os =
a2 440 St. o-- Wiese
.....5508 15th Ave. N. W...
at Oileeo OCH ePAG Cy Sse eee
_.Box 109 University Sta_
_..Box 109 University Sta.
ge Dill EL OWite PACVG see cee ae Everett, Wash.
(Orel Gti WAV CNuIN c= tees ee Seattle, Wash.
_-Broadway High School... se
-Am. Nat’l Bank Bldg.....Everett, Wash.
SARUM aQoyane rss KSirs ek ee Seattle, Wash.
EB OX TL Y beeen ae eee ..Everett, Wash.
400 Mehlhorn Bldg... Seattle, Wash.
2606 Rockefeller Ave-..Everett, Wash.
Wilikess sAgrt hry eee ee eo OF IST GAVE? eee Seattle, Wash.
Wilkins, W. H....... Saji) Pratveblydes- = Chicaconolls
Williams, Geo. T ae SL OORCODDE Dd _..Seattle, Wash.
WiiLSOn 2 OSED NmiWiee es Lemire eee ee en ge s
Wintermute, C. A............... 2608 Rockefeller Ave.....Everett, Wash.
Woodward, Dr. Adelaide.4707 Brooklyn Ave......... Seattle, Wash.
Worthington, Clara A.......1421 15th Ave................... ¥
Wari eit GeOns Breese eos. ed S GANIC Nees eee ‘ *
Witichiive Wiad s)-- bOG LSthi Ave. IN... i fs
Wyman, Dr. Martha K......Northern Bank Bldg... “ -
Woyminls sin Gz es ees cee S08sShelbynote- 2 es s
Port Townsend, Wn.
The Mountaineer 95
ADDITIONS TO THE PREVIOUSLY PUBLISHED BIBLIOGRAPHY
OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.
Compiled by HerLen GRACIE.
BAILEY, WINONA. Flowers of the mountain. (In The Mountaineer,
vol. 2, pp. 29-37. Nov., 1909.) 1 illus.
Bibliography of Mount Rainier. (In The Mountaineer, vol. 2, pp.
65-70, Nov., 1909.)
BROWNE, JOHN ROSS. Resources of the Pacific slope. (N. Y., 1869.
pp. 537-38.)
CLARKE, S. A. Bridge of the gods. (In his Pioneer days of Ore-
gon history, vol. 1, pp. 138-41.)
COOPER, JAMES G. Report upon the botany of the route. (In U.
S. war department, report of explorations . . . to the Pacific
Ocean, 1853-56. Washington, 1860. Vol. 12, pt. 2, pp. 13-76.)
COPE, EDWARD D. Sketches of Cascade mountains of Oregon. (In
American Naturalist, vol. 22, pp. 996-1003.)
COTTRELL, GEORGE E. Boating on Lake Chelan. (In Pacific
sportsman, vol. 2, pp. 378-79. Sept., 1905.)
CURTIS, ASAHEL. Mountaineers’ outing to Mount Rainier. (In the
Mountaineer, vol. 2, pp. 4-12. Nov., 1909.) 6 illus.
DARTON, NELSON HORATIO. Our Pacific northwest. (In National
geographic magazine, vol. 20, p. 658. July, 1909.)
FAY, CHARLES E. World’s highest altitudes. (In National geo-
graphic magazine, vol. 20, pp. 493-530. June, 1909. Mount Rainier,
p. 509.)
FINCK, HENRY T. Oregon and Washington snow peaks. (In his
Pacific coast scenic tour. N. Y. 1891. pp. 203-16.)
FREMONT, JOHN CHARLES. Memoirs of my life. Chicago, 1887.
(Cascade Mts. vol. I, pp. 282-3, 288-9.)
HARNDEN, E. W. Lure of the west. (In the Mountaineer, vol 2, pp.
25-29. Nov. 1909.)
HERBERTSON, ANDREW J. & F. D. (eds.) Descriptive geography of
North America. London, 1901. (Extracts from various authors,
pp. 162-68.)
INGRAHAM, MAJOR E. S. Early ascents of Mount Rainier. (In the
Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp.. 38-41, Nov. 1909.)
ITTER, JULIAN E. Glympse of the Chelan country. (In Pacific
Sportsman, Vol 3, pp. 413-14. Nov. 1906.)
KNOWLTON, FRANK H. Fossil plants associated with lavas of the
Cascade range. (In U. S. Geological survey, 20th report, 1899,
pt. 3, pp. 37-64.)
Lake Chelan fishing, by Chelana. (In Pacific Sportsman, Vol. 2, pp.
204-5. April, 1905.)
LYMAN, WILLIAM DENISON. Mountaineers’ club makes final dash
for Glacier Peak. (In Spokesman-Review, August 21, 1910.)
Mountaineers’ club penetrates unknown wilds of Cascade range. (In
Spokesman-Review. August 14, 1910.)
Indian legends of Mount Rainier. (In the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp.
51-55. Noy. 1909.)
A side trip to some of the great snow peaks. (In his Columbia
river, chapter 5, pp. 352-73. N. Y. 1909.)
96 The Mountaineer
McCULLY, A. WOODRUFF. -Rainier forest reserve. (In Overland
Monthly, Vol. 55, pp. 552-60, June, 1910, and Vol. 56, pp. 150-55.
Aug. 1910.)
MEEKER, EZRA. Trip through the Natchess Pass. (In his Pioneer
reminiscences of Puget Sound. Seattle, 1905. pp. 90-157.)
MUIR, JOHN. Wild parks and forest reservations of the west. (In
Atlantic Monthly, Vol. 81, pp. 15-28. Jan. 18838.) Cascade Mts.
pp. 22-26.)
REED, KATHERINE. Eastern impressions of the Mountaineers. (In
the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp. 43-50. Nov. 1909.) 1 illus.
REID, HARRY FIELDING. Glaciers of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. (In
International geographic congress report, 8th congress. 1904-1905.
p. 492.)
ROCKWOOD, ELEANOR RUTH, comp. Additions to the bibliography
of the Cascade mountains. (In Mazama, Vol. 3, pp. 78-84. March,
1907.
RUSLUNG, JAMES F. Great west and the Pacific slope. N. Y. 1877.
pp. 254-60, 269-70.
RUSSELL, ISRAEL COOK. Peaks of the Cascades, 1898. (In Her-
bertson, descriptive geography of North America, pp. 165-66.)
Preliminary paper on the geology of the Cascade mountains in north-
ern Washington. (In U. S. geological survey, 20th annual report,
1899, pt. 2, pp. 83-210, pl. 8-20.)
SENSENIG, WAYNE. A knapsack trip into Spray park. (In the
Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp. 56-59: Nov. 1909.) 3 illus.
SHIELDS, G. O. Cruisings in the Cascades. Chicago, 1889. Treats
chiefly of a hunting trip in British Columbia.
SMITH, G. O. Geological reconnaisance across the Cascade range near
the 49th parallel. 1904. (In U.S. geological survey bulltin 235.)
STEVENS, ISAAC INGALLS. Report of explorations for a route for
the Pacific railroad. (In U. S. war department, report of explora-
tions and surveys .. . to the Pacific ocean, 1853-56. Wash-
ington, 1860. Vol. 12, bk. I.)
U. S. INTERIOR DEPARTMENT. Report of the acting superintendent
of Mount Rainier national park. 1904-09. Washington, 1904-1910.
WELLS, H. L. Cascade mountains, 1897. (In Herbertson, descriptive
geography of North America, pp. 162-65.)
WINTHROP, THEODORE. Canoe and saddle. Boston, 1863. pp. 80-
110.
oe eee RTM ERA A
Photo by A. H. Cruse
MOUNTAINEERS ON THE SUMMIT OF GLACIBR PEAK
“SEE AMERICA FIRST”
Those who have seen and know the charm of mountain scenery
in the Rockies, Cascades, Gold Range and Olympics of Montana,
Washington and British Columbia, and have compared them
with beauty spots of Europe, say, “See America first.” The
American people, through acts of Congress, are preserving to
posterity in national parks these northwest mountain sections.
Mountaineer clubs and tourist bodies are being organized
throughout the United States for the purpose of visiting and
exploring the mountains. Along the line of the Great Northern
Railway, in Montana and Washington, are two regions of
sublime beauty.
1. GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
This park located in the Rockies of Montana takes in 1,400
square miles of mountain country, extending north from the
main line of the Great Northern Railway to the Canadian
boundary. In its confines are over forty living glaciers and a
great number of snow capped mountain peaks rising to a height
of from seven to ten thousand feet above the sea. From their
source in these pinnacled peaks, sparkling cascades dash down
the precipitous sides of massive basins of from two to three
thousand feet, to the numerous deep, clear, cool mountain lakes,
held gem-like in huge settings of rock walled canons and ever-
green mountain slopes.
2 LAKE CHELAN REGION
This lake lies a short distance north of the main line of the
Great Northern Railway in Washington and occupies one of
the deepest, if not the deepest, canons on the earth. Granite
walls rise above it almost vertically to a height of six thousand
or more feet above the water’s edge. The lake itself is upwards
of two thousand feet deep, making altogether a great hole in the
earth one and one-half miles in depth. The country around the
lake for over ten thousand square miles is topped with peaks,
ranging from seven to ten thousand feet above sea level, and
gridironed with canons, many of which have never been
entered or explored. In planning your next
vacation trip, bear these two regions in mind.
For rates and descriptive booklet, address any
Great Northern Agent, or write to W. A. Ross,
Assistant Gen. Passenger Agent, Seattle, Wash.
C. GC. FILSON
Manufacturer of Waterproof
{kina English Gabardine,
Hunting Coats, Women’s
Outing Clothing, Sleeping Bags,
Blankets, Wool Batts, Etc. : : :
A/l/ kinds of Bedding and Clothing
used for Outdoor Life
REFERENCE: EVERY MOUNTAINEER PATRON
1011 FIRST AVE., SEATTLE
Pte LOG Er $:O-U IND
SCENIC POINTS
THE PUGET SOUND NAVIGATION CO.
HOOD CANAL POINTS
SAN JUAN ISLAND POINTS
STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA POINTS
BELLINGHAM ANACORTES EVERETT
EDMONDS PORT TOWNSEND = IRONDALE
FAST S. S. INDIANAPOLIS
FOR TACOMA DIREcT
Leaves Colman Dock 9:00 A.M., 1:00 P.M., 5:00 P.M., 9:00 P.M.
GENERAL OFFICES, COLMAN DOCK. MAIN 3993: IND. 736
TRAFFORD HUTESON W. H. REES LESTER A. GRANT
HUTESON OPTICAL COMEANY
MANU FACTU RING, RE F RACTIN G, DISPEN iSING
1330 SECOND AVE. °°. NEAR UNION ST.
Carry a large assortment of Field and Marine Glasses, Prism Binoculars,
Aneroid Barometers, Pedometers, Compasses, Goggles and Colored Glasses.
SPECIAL TO MOUNTAINEERS: Eyes examined and estimates given for
glasses without charge. ::::::::::
SUPPLIES for the
MOUNTAINEER
Many articles of special interest to
mountaineers of the Northwest are
carried, such as
MAPS, CHARTS, GUIDES
BAROMETERS
COMPASSES, SKETCH-
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THE MOUNTAINEER
MOUNT ADAMS NUMBER
V OpE ev US MEE lL Von £991 4
7
es -
eB! Le SAE D>. BY
THE MOUNTAINEERS
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
*
Publication Committee | ve
FOLD cad
Lulie Nettleton, Editor
A. H. Albertson, Business Manager
Winona Bailey, Historian
| Helen Gracie is
The Mountaineer
Volume Four
Nineteen-Eleven
LIBRARY
NEW York
BOTANICAL
GARDEN,
Published by
The Mountaineers
Seattle, Washington
Copyright
1911
The Mountaineers
DEC 26 1911
CONTENTS
Gr@CbI —owcsecsiccncesennsedcece caeedececesdseeaceesenenses Flonorable James Bryce..........-..-
Notes on Mt. Adams and St. Helens..Professor Henry Landes............
INU Fao CG F100 kee Professor Edmond S. Meanv....
Mt. Adams Outing of 1911...................] Viss Winona Bailey .....-....-...-..-
Mountain Wipine 22 ee Professor Edmond S. Meany...
Ascent of Mt. Hood by Mountaineers Charles S. Gleason.....0...22..22..-...-..
IV eat yg errr eae ee Sa eee Ae EL AID CKUS OFF 2.2
Climbs in the Southern Selkirks.._...... Edward W. Harnden ............------
Benediction of the Mountains........... Rev. Frederick T. Webb.........
The Future of the Rainier National Park ..2.:222.2.2
ASOMEUAG UFTUS eee rr reer
All Night on an Active Volcano.......... Charles Albertson ..0....22.-2.00002+-+-
With the Alpine Club of Canada... POM MGC eG Or
The Olympic National Monument.....Edmond S. Meany-.......---..----
Notes or © tiie te Clays) ere ae ween en
INC SU ee ee ee ene ee en ee eee
TRSS COUT Et OMT S rs eee eae ac ee a eee ae nee ae Seales erase
(Seay Say nyo) 9 as) n\n er serene eee ery ter Pe at re ee eer errr ene eee
(GS aitercvrtcuaes hie led DE reat (0) chsh eae eee Plena me i pe Pi Oars ea eee a ee
Reports—
CSTE 1 1 GSE ee
Ets aS Us tag sees: ceca a cece ee ee eee eae Seer ere ae
Outine \Com#nitee es oe Oe a ee es
ocalavWallcsm Committee 28225) <2 ee ee.
Scheduletote local) Walls ae ee ee
Page
i, PAZ
fe?
LIBRAZ
NEW YO
BOTANIC
GARDE;
ILLUSTRATIONS
ING emReA CE air eee re ee eek re Ne rece Pee one eT ahs Plate
White Bark Pine (Pinus Contorta) ...... Bere Meee EA 5 ae Plate
Snow Bridge at Killing Creek ............... a eS ee Oe Plate
Pack rain iGressines cavasGlacier oni dirs Northi= 222 Plate
|Gcatvtel aXe. G oret end bovine sei a tee nae Se oe Eo a eee Plate
IVT feeesl OO Clee eee igs eh Ss ed eden eves Pee Plate
Syvirmmange: Cowes NY [ine er Koyo ya le eae eae 6 A ee Nee eee ey ee Plate
Elirote Glacier GNUBGENOO Ci) Rese ee eae ee ee ee Plate
[ced Columns oneeliobye Glacier. sms ree ae eee Plate
SEA Tits Cleo ck Tage aes ce rey ee a Plate
Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground... seen Plate
Nite Rainiters SIN Oa Cite err eet en tere Seer er ee ee ee Plate
NitaaRanmi ety trom Sprayer ba Tks. cesses sere ee rece nee ce Tee Plate
ANS crit cAMMDY sed TL UE Bs O MMM AT UN cL Wel oestrone ae eae Plate
Mt. Biddle with Glacier and Lake McArthu.......................--.-..- Plate
Mire erlaber my ima Ubeakcstan ns. epee ee St oe late
View from side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke
I NIGENGVONG he eects tee A ee aE Ne Sees Fes ee ie eae Plate
Everett Mountaineerssom Mit Pilehtack: 222.22 e cence eseeenceeseet Plate
WWiloyee anes nnaveccr ney ovate Mite, JANG Ei NUK) eee tee etre rear Sn ee ee ae Plate
IRerea Keto Fl oLon de. SSYOCOYOR TALI kee ee eee cece ae ern ee ee Plate
SHcerepay rim Zl WN Moyibo neh al INCE GUO) eee ee eee eee eee ee Plate
fitting, (LE (oyoY a NI ok mes eet Peep PN ane ND en kee nae er Plate
uigeqaintezabatetermsy phat (Cloke 180 lel aj, seeeee eee gece ee Ree ee eee ee Plate
Snow Cornice above Klickitat Glacier, Mt. Adams.... ............. Plate
Pry dicen URES Yes Ey wi] 2 oe ee SR ee ee ne eo Plate
Mountaineers on a Steep Slope of Mt. Adams...................-.-.... Plate
Onethemeoadmn ieamien National (Parke... -o..cceenes eae ceseeeaaee Plate
Plate I.
Two Lakes near the summit of
Lava Glacier in the center, Lyman Glacier on the
ht beyond the cleaver. The Mountaineers
Adams and Lava Glaciers.
MT. ADAMS— North side of Mt. Adams from above
the Cascade Mts.
by A. H. Denman left, Adams Glacier to the rig
and A. H. Barnes made the ascent up the cleaver between the
Greetings:
From the
Gonurahle Janes Bryce—
British Ambassador
tu the
United States
Galutation:
Ue has leg of OO
Pes a satan
ees Binet Jutte 7
bo fritet, Ctfone Cod, 7
Keak ie ae a
Or a
— ate
The Mountaineer
Volume Four Seattle, Washington Nineteen-Eleven
NOTES ON ADAMS AND ST. HELENS BOT AL
Pror. Henry LANDES
Mt. Adams
For a number of years I have been an ardent admirer of
Mt. Adams, but always at lone range. Not until nearly the
close of the summer that is just past did I have the oppor-
tunity of a more intimate acquaintance. In this instance dis-
tance may have lent enchantment, but familiarity certainly
bred respect and not
contempt. In coming
up the Yakima val-
ley by train, I have
always sat by the
vindow, getting ev-
ery possible glimpse
of the beautiful and
symmetrical mouwn-
tain as it rose grand-
ly at times above the
eray and bare hills
of the foreground.
Looked at from a
a thousand vantage
points to the east-
ward, the hoary-head-
ed old voleano is a
conspicuous land-
mark on the western
horizon. It rises head
and shoulders above
the labyrinth of
mountains which
hedge it in on the
Photograph by H. V. Abel
A SECTION OF ADAMS GLACIER
6 The Mountaineer
west and north. Its majestic pile, with its seeming ambition
of forming a connecting link between the earth and the sky,
is at once a source of awe and inspiration to the mountaineer.
On a clear day the view from the top of Adams is well
worth the climb. In asecendine the mountain from the south
it is not long before Mt. Hood appears as a very near neigh-
bor. In a little while, when the beautiful dome of Hood ap-
pears at its best, one is dehehted to find that in the same
view Jefferson has come prominently into the range of vision,
to the left of Hood and 50 miles beyond. 9S
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The Mountaineer 19
side by a glacial torrent dashing out from the gorge of a
miniature box canyon. A little frequented spot it appeared to
be. Before we left, by unanimous vote and with much en-
thusiasm, it was named MeColl Basin, after our new Scotch
friend who had led us to it.
We were now on the north slope of Goat Rocks and, to
reach the pass above, the horses would have to cross a glacier,
so volunteers were again called for to lead them. They took
a somewhat different route from the rest of the party and
at noon as we lunched on an opposite hillside we saw in the
ile EAE err aoe
Photograph by Carlyle Ellis
McCOLL’S BASIN
distance the long thin line of animals and their leaders wind-
ing their zig-zag course now up along the side of Tieton gla-
cier, then back and forth on a seemingly perpendicular moun:
tain side. Sometimes they would stop for such a long time that
we feared the trail had proved too dangerous, but again creep-
ing slowly on they were lost to view over the pass before the
rest of the party were well upon the snow slope. Boots had
fortunately been well calked the night before, for the slope
was steep and steps had to be made carefully. In company
formation with Leader Belt ahead, a lieutenant in front of each
company of eight or nine and a eaptain behind to watch and
give instructions, we moved slowly across the wide snow-field
2() The Mountaineer
with the strange rocky pinnacles above, the smooth, brilliantly
colored slopes of Tieton Peak ahead, and the valley dropping
steep away below. The pass reached at 7000 feet, another fieid
of soft snow in which we sank knee-deep took us into the
valley of the South Fork of the Tieton and we began to look
for Surprise Lake, which we were told was to be our campine-
eround for the night. Perhaps there is a Surprise Lake, but
our surprise was to come suddenly, near dusk, upon a camp-
fire with Mr. Carr beside it and a bountiful hot dinner, to
which we did speedy tribute, stopping not to remove grease-
paint, black, white, or red. Here, on a bleak hillside, a place
where only sheep could find subsistence, was the cache of six-
teen hundred pounds of food left there a few weeks earlier by
the packers.
A steep climb of eight hundred feet brought us to a ridge
overlooking the magnificent cirque at the head of the Khekitat.
Skirting this we found ourselves again below the sharp scaling
spires of the Goat Rocks. This passing of the south side and
the climb the day before on the north furnished our only close
acquaintance with this interesting group of mountains, a region
little visited and well worth a summer’s outing. As we lunehed
on the rocks before crossing to western slopes near Cispus Pass
Mr. Bertsechi, forest ranger of that district, met us and for
four days was our friend and adviser, guiding by shorter
routes to the great mountain, through the region of the ghost
trees. Among them a little spring like an oasis in the desert
furnished site for a ranger’s eabin known as Short Trail Camp
and here we spent the night. Next camp was at the Indian
tepee on the vast table-land that slopes from Adams on the
north and west. Here the Indian, perhaps for ages, has
eamped in huckleberry season beside a clear, cold stream under
the very shadow of the mountain.
On the fifteenth day at noon, we reached the mountain
camp, a typical little meadow-basin on Killing Creek on the
north side of Mt. Adams at 6000 feet. Above was the lava
ridge on which we were to climb between the Adams and the
Lava glaciers. The commissary stream came leaping down
in white spray under a thin snow-bridge, turned a right angle
and dashed on to the valleys. On every hand were tiny lakelets
furnishing fine laundry and swimming pools. Trees fringed
The Mountaineer 21
the glade except towards the mountain, where snow banks
lined the basin rim, a site that rivalled Buck Creek Pass, the
permanent camp of the Glacier Peak outing.
The afternoon was spent in preparations for the long
anticipated circus, the stupendous spectacle that formed the
climax of the fun of camp-fire programs. The evening enter-
tainments of this outing were somewhat curtailed because of
leneth of mareh and lack of time in camp, but who that heard
them will ever forget the tales that were told, the instructive
Photograph by Fred Q. Gorton
CAMP IN THE GHOST FOREST
talks on photographs and stars, the history, the legends, and
the verses of our president, the orchestra of our musical
brethren, the sones that shortened the miles or relieved a mo-
ment of perplexity? Every Sunday there was a beautiful, rest-
ful service of worship with pulpit and sounding board of alpine
firs and pews on grassy slopes.
It was decided when the climb was made to break camp
at Killing Creek, send all supphes and dunnage by pack train
around the western flank with any who did not care to go with
the climbers over the mountain. On Monday, July 31, the
rising call sounded before daylight and with hasty packing of
dunnage and still hastier breakfast the whistle blew and fifty-
ee
oO
The Mountaineer
two people lned up ready for the start. At four-fifty we
marched out of camp. In nine hours and twenty minutes we
stood on the summit of Mt. Adams, 12,307 feet above the sea.
No difficulties were encountered at any point. For nearly five
thousand feet the climb was on lava rock affording good foot-
ing, then almost a mile across a snow-field of easy grade to
within three hundred feet of the top where the snow piled
steep and dome-like. The day was clear only in the upper
regions. Below, a smoky haze filled all the valleys and hid
the lesser peaks. The cones of Mt. Raimer and Mt. St. Helens
were clear above it all day, and when the top was reached
Mt. Hood appeared in the southern heavens, a while peak
with no apparent base upon the earth.
The time on top was short. After the usual picture-taking
by companies and groups, the flag was unfurled and one verse
of America sung and with a cirele around the east end to look
down on the head of the great Klickitat Glacier, we dropped
over the south side to find the Mazama record box chained to
a little rocky ledge. To open this, examine its assortment of
ecards and papers, and then sign the record book took all too
long, and the leader’s face grew anxious as he announced the
hour and the possible distance from camp. The descent on the
south was rock-work; an occasional pocket of snow gave a
brief rest from the rocks, but we were too far to the west for
the fine coasting slopes, and the best sliding we had was a sort
of bump-the-bumps performance. Sharp eyes kept a look-out
for the pack train or the friendly smoke of the camp-fire we
knew would be built somewhere below. None appeared. At
six o'clock a trail was reached that soon led into another much
traveled trail showing the tracks of many horses. Dark com-
ine on seemed to double the miles, but at nine a cheerful whistle
announced a friend with the message, “Camp only half a mile
away. There a hot dinner was waiting, and hands ready to
serve it. The members of the party who had gone around the
west side had not only walked nearly twenty miles over hard
trail but had selected a camping spot for everybody and carried
each one’s dunnage to it. Never were conquerors more warmly
welcomed, never did they find more preparations for their com-
fort. This place was Morrison Creek ranger’s station. Next
day we rested there, and the report of the climb was sent out
to the papers.
Plate XXYV.
Photograph by Charles Albertson
INDIAN TEPEE CAMP
Plate XXVI.
ae
ne
MOUNTAINEERS ON A STEEP SLOPE ABOUT FIFTY FEET BELOW
THE SUMMIT OF MT. ADAMS
Photograph by Charles Albertson
Plate IV.
Photograph by H. B. HINMAN
FIRST BASIN IN GOAT ROCKS AFTER LEAVING McCOLL’S BASIN
Plate V.
Photograph by C. R. Corey
THE PACK TRAIN CROSSING LAVA GLACIER ON TRIP NORTH.
ca)
SS)
The Mountaineer
The following day Miss Lulie Nettleton, Mr. Gorton and
Mr. Bennett made a second climb of the mountain, leaving
Morrison Creek camp at four fifty-five, following the even snow
slopes of the south side and reaching the summit at eleven.
They spent two hours on top, then coasting most of the way,
came down more than five thousand feet in forty-five minutes,
returned to our eamp of the night before for an hour’s rest
and joined the main party at Trout Lake thirteen miles farther
on, coming in just as camp-fire was over.
Camp was three miles out from the settlement at Trout
Lake. m a beautiful grove of pine and larch in the lava cave
region ‘he largest cave visited appeared from the surface
as a great nole in a heap of rocks. Two ladders led down into
it and then with the help of pitch pine knots, we followed over
sharp rocks a vaulted passage wide and high for several hun-
dred feet to where it branched into smaller archways. This
region is full of caves which seem like great bubbles in a stream
of lava that once flowed down from Mt. Adams to the Columbia
river. In the vicinity of our camp another smaller cave was
found and explored and it was said two hundred others had
been counted. So numerous are they and their openings so
hidden in the grass and rocks that a horseback rider at night
is in danger. Water has seeped into some and frozen into great
pipe-organ columns or stalactites and stalagmites of ice that
the heat of summer never overcomes.
The trail from the ice cave to Oklahoma ranger’s station,
where the next night’s halt was made, was one recently built
and led across a ridge into the valley of the Little White Sal-
mon through beautiful forests of white pine and fir. The milder
character of the country made the trip of the last few days
seem more like local walks than the real mountaineering of
the summer’s outing. By this time, too, our company was much
reduced because a number had gone home early from Trout,
Lake.
The last day the trail widened into the road, the foot log
into the strone bridge, farm houses were passed at intervals
until finally the whistle of a locomotive was heard and we
knew the solitude of the hills was ours no more. At a sharp
bend in the road, high on the hillside we caught the first glimpse
of the mighty Columbia.
The Mountaineer
Rising eall was sounded early Saturday morning and break-
fast was over in time to give the ladies a chance to do their
first shopping in three weeks before the train left for Park-
dale, twenty-three miles up the Hood river valley.
Luneh was served from our own supplies at Parkdale,
elevation 1800 feet, and at one o'clock we started on a twelve-
mile hike along the wagon road up the north side of Mt. Hood.
It was hot and the road was dusty and a steady uphill pull,
but three weeks spent in the open and one hundred and seventy-
five miles of trampine mountain trails had made the party “fit.”
The first five miles was among the fruit farms of the upper val-
ley, the last seven through dense pine forest to camp about
600 feet below timber line near Cloud Cap Inn, a typical sum-
mer resort hotel at an elevation of 5800 feet.
Sunday was spent resting for the climb on the morrow,
studying the route up the mountain, photographing the peak
with and without a cloudeap, talking with Miller, the mountairt
euide who frankly admitted that a party of Mountaineers did
not need his services, and in observing the guests of the Inn
and permitting them to observe us to our mutual edification,
khaki suits, calked boots, alpenstocks and tanned faces making
a striking contrast with white flannels, tennis shoes, parasols
and lly white complexions.
We invited the guests to visit our camp and they proved
to be “good fellows all”, showed great interest in our sleeping-
bags and camp equipment and said they enjoyed our camp-fire
songs and the stories we told of our long hike.
Mt. Hood stands in the dooryard of Cloud Cap Inn, or just
over the fence, and towers over 5000 feet above it. Sweeping
down directly toward the Inn les the magnificent Elliott
Glacier.
By 4:30 o’clock Monday morning we had had breakfast
and sixteen of the party started on the climb. Our route
was along the east side of Elliott Glacier to the summit of
Cooper’s Spur three miles away and 2800 feet above camp.
We then turned to the right and climbed the steep snow-field
at the head of Newton Clark Glacier to Crescent Crevasse where
the slope became steeper and reached an angle of sixty-five
degrees which it maintained to the summit. From this point
we availed ourselves of the rope 1400 feet long anchored near
28 The Mountaineer
the summit each season by the guides, and climbing hand over
hand, reached the summit, elevation 11,225 feet, at 12 o'clock.
The steep climb was a novel experience for Mountaineers
accustomed to climb the massive snow-covered domes of our
Washington mountain peaks, and when we reached the sum-
mit we found not snow and ice, but bare voleanie rock.
The view of the Willamette valley on the west was ob-
secured by heavy clouds, but to the north and east was spread
the beautiful panorama of the Columbia valley, while beyond
were miles and miles of Washington wheat-fields, and on the
northern horizon stood our old friend Mt. Adams upon whose
mighty snow cap, 12,307 feet above the sea, we had stood just
one week before. Beyond Adams, above the clouds, was the
summit of old Rainier, 14,526 feet high. To the east and south-
east through broken clouds we caught glimpses of the great
plains of Eastern Oregon, while in the south rose the pinnacle
of Mt. Jefferson and beyond the Three Sisters.
After lunch on the summit under the lea of a pile of rock
to escape the biting wind and an hour spent in photographing
the scenery upon our memory and ourselves with the camera,
we began the descent backward down the rope hand under
hand, then coasted down a mile of snow slope and were in
camp by 3:30, happy that we could carve the names of two
mountains upon our alpenstocks for the year 1911.
Tuesday we walked twelve miles to Parkdale, took the
train to Hood River and the steamer down the Columbia to
Vancouver, and reached Seattle Wednesday morning, August 9.
FITT,
Plate
Urry
Mabel IF
raph by
Photo
ro. LLOOD
ON
R
LACIE
‘
1
(
ELLIOT
The Mountaineer 29
MEANY
As valiant as the eagle in his heaven,
As steadfasi as the iron rocks, hard riven;
As warm as sunshine after rain, as sweet as sleep is after pain,
As golden as the sunset grain, as peace upon the heart had lain;
Refreshing as the wood’s wind after showers,
Or strong as mother love—or mountain towers:
Yea, even so is he—and he is ours,
And so, to him, these wild and wind-blown flowers.
A. H. A.
The Alountaineer
EDMOND STEPHEN MEANY, M. L.
President of the Mountaineers.
The Alountaineer 31
*CLIMBS IN THE SOUTHERN SELKIRKS
Epwarp W. Harnpren
“Hail Columbia!” That is what I could have appropriately
sung, even in Canada, on the Fourth of July this year, as the
“Klahowya™” laboriously foreed her shallow breadth against
the winding current of the ninety-mile stretch from Golden, on
the Canadian Pacific road, to the head waters of the Columbia
river. The visit of 1910 with Mr. Herbert W. Gleason to the
snow and ice clad sources of the s ream, as told to readers of
the Mountaineer last year, had been fascinating but disap-
pointing. Like Moses, we kad seen but had not entered upon
the promised land. Our trip to the head of two of the western
tributaries, Toby and Horse Thief creeks, rising in the very
crest of the southern Selkirks, had afforded us glorious Alpine
views of unclimbed and almost unknown peaks; but protracted
forest fires had enforced an idleness which had left us in bad
climbing condition and had so shortened our time that, instead
of leaping joyously from crag to crag, we could simply scurry
about and size up what we would like to do another year. In-
stead of sitting haughtily aloft, “hke Jupiter on Olympus,
looking down from afar upon men’s lives,” we had simply
“Walked right in, and turned around,
And walked right out again.”
Mr. Gleason’s plans for 1911 did not permit of a resumption
of activities in the region; but I had greatly interested two
x
Boston mountain-climbine friends—Mr. George D. Emerson,
a fellow Mountaineer and Appalachian, and his wife—and they
were awaiting me on the morning of July 5 at the head of
navigation. A hurried breakfast together was followed by a
lightning change of “duds” and throwing together of dunnage,
and we, accompanied by Mr. Charles D. Ellis of Windermere, a
climbing companion of last year, were packed and off for Toby
Creek.
*A continuation of Mr. Harnden’s “A New Mountain Country” in the
Mountaineer of November, 1910.
cas)
The Mountaineer
We first visited the Paradise Basin, whence we started the
climb of Hammond last vear, and where our Recording Angel,
Mrs. Emerson, performed the rather remarkable celestial feat
of coasting down into Paradise. But the North Fork of Toby
Creek, somewhat farther on and about eighteen miles from
Athelmer, the head of navigation on the river, was the scene
of our first real work. We intended not only to climb, but to
size up the country topographically and otherwise as well as
time would permit. We were our own guides, packers, cooks
and dish-washers—no trouble with the servant problem! Mrs.
Emerson, besides acting as Recording Angel of the expedition,
planned to do a little botanizing; Mr. Emerson, who is an en-
gineer, carried a light transit, and we had ice axes and rope
and the best procurable aneroids. Incidentally, better measure-
ment and aneroiding showed that our estimated altitudes of
last year over-shot the mark; but it still remains true that the
southern Selkirks equal the northern in height and surpass
them in Alpine grandeur.
A few minor tramps and serambles about Paradise Basin
and our North Fork camp put us in fairly good condition. We
had planned a second ascent of Mount Hammond—first as-
cended last year by Mr. Ellis—by a new, and it seemed to me
more interesting, route, which I had then observed as a possi-
bility. Mr. Ellis was anxious to join us on this second ascent,
but was ealled from camp by business, and while awaiting his
return the Emersons and I packed on our backs our sleeping
bags and provisions for several days and made a trip to the
head of North Fork. The magnificent glacier scene here
afforded from the high eastern slopes of the Fork, I referred
to last year. A summit above us, to the east, which seemed
to offer a magnificent view-point, attracted our attention, and
this summit furnished us with a splendid day’s climb and a
first ascent. The combined snow gully and sharp rock arete
work gave us a good try-out and test of condition.
Mount Catherine, as we named the peak, is from 10,000 to
10.300 feet in height, subject to later calculations, bears on its
north face, overlooking Boulder Creek, a series of splendid,
precipitous, hanging glaciers, and offers one of the finest Alpine
panoramas imaginable. Not far away, to the east, was Mt.
Hammond, while to the west, tier on tier, rose the magnificent
peaks of the main southern Selkirk range, with some of which
Plate IX.
Photograph by Edward W. Harnden
ICE COLUMNS ON TOBY GLACIER
The Mountaineer 33
we were to hobnob—and hobnail—later. As far as the eye
could see, from south to north, the landscape fairly bristled
with the typical elittering, crevassed glacier fields and jag@ed
summits of the Selkirks, which, while perhaps not averaging
quite as high as the neighboring Rockies, have much finer ice-
fields (excepting such northern ice-fields in the Rockies as the
Columbia and Washmawapta), due to greater precipitation,
and are more Alpine in character.
We returned to our lower camp in good shape for the
Mount Hammond climb. Charhe had not returned, and we had
to go without him. A short distance above our camp Ifammond
Creek—so named by us—enters North Fork from the north.
The Emersons and I packed in an almost straight course up
this creek, camping near the base of the west side of the moun-
tain, preparatory to attempting the chmb by a route which had
seemed to me last year a particularly interesting one.
The steep and direct rise up Hammond Creek from our
North Fork camp, with its elevation of about 4300 feet, to the
base camp for our Hammond climb, at 6700 feet, afforded an
unusually striking illustration of changes from temperate to
sub-aretic conditions. The trees rapidly dwindled to serub,
and the character of the flowers, which were beautiful and
profuse, changed with every few hundred feet of rise. There
is no lost ground by this route, and it makes a far more interest-
ing climb, technically and from a sceme point, than the route
of last vear from Paradise Basin.
From our camp, in a strip of woods overlooking from the
left the snow gully at the head of Hammond Creek, we could
clearly figure out our probable route of the next day, when
the bright promise of the evening was fulfilled. Outlined
against the early morning sky line, on July 14, to the northeast
stood the steep rock and snow profile of Mount Hammond.
We knew that this aréte that stood out against the sky looked
down on the farther side vertically to Boulder Creek, and it
was by this ragged Boulder Creek aréte that we planned to
ascend until we reached the bastioned crown just below the
summit. A sharp rise of about two hours, scrambling over
broken rock slopes and up steep snow gullies, brought us to the
aréte, and careful climbing up the unstable rock bridge, with
its tremendous views into the yawning Boulder Creek abyss
at our left, finally brought us to the crown. This is composed
34 The Mountaineer
of tremendous cubical rock bastions, pierced by occasional
gaps, Where erosion of the rotten rock by frost and elacial
action has left rough, narrow, sharp V-shaped chimneys. The
first gap had seemed impracticable to Mr. Ellis last vear, and
at first so impressed us; but there were three of us, we had a
200d rope, and, avoiding the snow-filled depression, into which
broken rock has a habit of falling, and taking to the side roeks
at the left, a half hour’s delicate and careful work—in which
our Recording Angel, a novice in Alpine work, showed splendid:
nerve
placed us at the top of the bastion, whence a short
scramble brought us to the top of the shattered rock cone
which forms the summit.
Our calculations this year dropped the summit to about
10,400 to 10,600 feet
however, well up to that of the highest northern Selkirks; and
subject to later refinement—an elevation,
the glorious view afforded of the Columbia valley to the east,
with the Rockies rising beyond, and of our neighboring erest
chain of Selkirks to the west, we can never forget.
Our North Fork plans were now consummated, and our
next base of operations was Earl Grey Pass, at the head of the
main Toby Creek, as described in last year’s Mountaineer. This
is a pass leading over into the west Kootenay region, and was
first crossed by a Mr. Wells, of Boston.
A day and a half’s packing from the North Fork camp
landed us there ready for business, camped in a little park
reminiscent of Rainier, surrounded by erythronium and giant
anemones, the dying gasp of the expiring timber still leaving,
in addition to the Lyell’s larches, fir balsam for beds. About
us was one of the noblest panoramas conceivable, suggestive,
as I said last year, of the view from the Gorner Grat.
The sharp, high, apparently inaccessible peak pictured in
plate III last year, lying south of the Pass, had haunted my
dreams during the winter. I knew that it had three apparently
impossible sides. The fourth, lying in back, I had never seen,
but | had faith that it would prove feasible. So on the promis-
ing morning of July 18, we started out to circumvent the moun-
tain and see whether I was correct. The party consisted of
the Emersons, Mr. Ellis, who had now rejoined us, and myself.
We dropped from the Pass, which is at a level of about 7400
feet, to the Toby Glacier, which hes at the head of Toby Creek
and is its source, and traveled the long gradually rising curve
The Mountaineer 35
of the glacier for several miles, starting in a southerly direction
and gradually swinging to the west as we cut the are of a circle
around the peak. As we rounded a sharp, knife-lhke rock shoul-
der of the mountain, that unknown south side came into view,
and there seemed a reasonable chance that the mountain was
ours. Instead of precipices where in places the snow and ice
eould barely maintain a foothold, we found the hollow on this
side filled with a steep, winding glacier tributary to the Toby
Glacier, with névé and snow-field above and a rock ridge at
the top, and all apparently negotiable with proper precaution.
There were the usual problems of avoiding crevasses on the
lower levels and looking out for rocks above; but all went well,
and one o'clock in the afternoon of a splendid day found us
the first persons on the summit of Mount Gleason (named after
Mr. Herbert W. Gleason), one of the finest peaks of the south-
ern Selkirks. We lunehed and enjoyed the curiously detached
and tremendous sensation afforded by a view of a chaotic ice
and rock world from a peak one side of which swept down
thousands of feet in a sheer precipice below our feet. Our
aneroiding placed the height at about 10,600 feet, and rough
triangulation from Toby Glacier, where we subsequently ran
a base line, gave a height of 10,800 feet. The summit rock
seemed to be largely granitic, which probabiy accounts for the
peak’s retaining its sharp, Matterhorn-lke shape.
The running of a base line on Toby Glacier and a trip
through the ice columns of the “Temple of Karnak,” which we
threaded from end to end, on subsequent days, brought our
Toby Creek work to a elose, and we then hied ourselves to
Horse Thief Creek, another west to east tributary of the Co-
lumbia river, lying to the north of Toby Creek. Mr. Ellis had
to leave the party again, on account of business.
Horse Thief Creek, in its 45-mile length, heads up in
another interesting part of the erest range. Outfitting for the
mountaineer and hunter is facilitated by Thomas Starbird’s
delightful Mountain Valley Ranch, about thirteen miles up the
ereek from Wilmer. This ereek, in its variety of scenic features
canyons, hoodoos, steep mountain side walls, unsurpassed
waterfalls and its culminating magnificent Alpine scenery at
the head—far surpasses even the beautiful Toby Creek. Goats
fairly run riot on the mountains about the valley, there 1s an
36 The Mountaineer
occasional grizzly to make things interesting, and at the ranch
there are saddle horses and delightful quarters and surround-
ines for the non-strenuous tourist.
To a camp 28 miles above the ranch the Emersons and I
packed by horse: and from this camp we did some minor tramp-
ing and chmbing, exploring what we called Goat Creek, a nor-
thern tributary of Horse Thief. We bueked brush up the west
side of the creek and came down the more open roeky eastern
bank, following the stream closely and getting superb views
at close range of magnificent falls, as the stream tumbled in a
continuous series of cascades down the steep mountain side,
having their source in a lake of marvelous beauty.
Above this camp to the head of the creek and the foot of
the great Starbird Glacier there was no trail for horses ready,
although the government has interested itself in the section
and a horse trail was cut up to us before we came out; so,
with the assistance of the trail-cutters, we packed up on our
backs ten‘s, sleeping bags and food for about ten days. We
chose, in a flat bordering the main creek and about two miles
below the glacier, an ideal camping site. A delightful little
mossy brook of the purest water ran before our tents; at hand
was a good supply of fir balsams.
“The beds were made, the room was fit,
By punctual eve the stars were lit.”
Back of us a wild, jagged, vertical cliff up-reared; across
the valley three wonderful falls plunged down the mountain
side; and at the head of the creek, in full view, was the lower
stretch of the noble, curving Starbird Glacier, with its back-
eround of snow and ice peaks, dominated by the great summit
which we hoped to climb.
A reconnaissance was, of course, first in order, and this we
planned from a minor peak across the glacier to the north. So
that we need not retrace our steps and the climb might not be
too long from our eamp, the Emersons and I planned a possible
three-days’ expedition from camp, packing on our backs sleep-
ing bags and provisions, devoting the first day to reconnaissance
and locating a base camp, the second day to the climb, with
the possibility of returning to the main creek camp the second
night, but being prepared to be out a third day.
uosdaug “dD
The Mountaineer
The reconnaissance was successful and interesting. Our
minor 9000-foot peak enabled us to look across at the summit
we had in mind and to lay out alternative routes, and offered
glorious views of the snow and ice world about us. The Star-
bird Glacier, which stretched its immense leneth in a horseshoe
beneath us, is perhaps twelve miles long, possibly the largest
in the Selkirks. On every hand were immense ice fields, while
hanging glaciers, due to the peculiarly precipitous nature of
the mountain walls, abounded. From one such, over an almost
vertical mountain precipice across Horse Thief Creek, we wit-
nessed within ten minutes of each other two tremendous ava-
lanches, the shattered ice streamine thousands of feet down
the mountain side in cascades and finally debouching on to the
great glacier itself. Some goats also passed in review at rea-
sonably close range.
Making camp at the nearest point to our peak where wood
seemed available, we turned in, prepared to climb the next day.
We started long before sunrise, the route upon which we had
determined lying over the surface of the glacier for several
miles, swinging from south to west to the summit of a pass over
into west Kootenay, then turning sharply to the left and fol-
lowing a long “switchback” glacier, which skirted our peak on
the north side, to an ice and snow slope which, with broad
eross crevasses and a final bergschrund, rose steeply and direct-
ly to the rock-ecapped summit. An alternative route, if this
should prove impracticable, involved the attack of a rock
comb from a point near the pass and working along this comb
to a high snow-field, assailing the summit from the rear.
It soon became clear that the elements were against us.
Heavy clouds and mists formed, and did not break away with
the rising sun. We crossed the pass and got some grand views
of the lower West Kootenay mountains, but our summit re-
mained obscured and weather conditions were threatening.
Finally, we were reluctantly obliged to give up the climb.
Fate had other knocks in store. Shortly after returning
to our main camp a telegram came up the line ealling the
Emersons home; and one of the trail-cutters, Ernest Rafford,
a former Maine guide and woodsman, who joined us and wished
to participate in a second attempt on the mountain, had not
been in camp five minutes before he had cut himself well into
the ankle bone with an axe. My comrades sadly departed, say-
38 The Mountaineer
ing that they would try to send up somebody who would like
to climb the peak, while I waited a week in camp, taking care
of the unlucky chopper and hoping against hope. And it rained
almost continuously in the valley—and snowed on the moun-
tains!
At last, on August 10, the weather cleared beautifully,
and the little angels who preside over the destinies of suffi-
ciently persistent mountaineers—and other mortals—smiled.
Towards evening, the jineline of bells told me that the horse
trail to our camp had been completed, and Frank Butterfield,
superintendent of the Starbird ranch, with Jack Poorman, of
Idaho, a trail-cutter, and Mitchell Coffin, of Brooklyn, appeared
on the scene.
The hoodoo was broken. Five o'clock the next morning
saw Coffin, Poorman, and myself well on our way up the glacier,
Butterfield being unable to join us beeause another trail-cutter
had been injured and had to be taken down into the valley.
The fates never granted more beautiful weather for elimb-
ine—although I was afraid our magic three meght be broken
when twelve goats gazed simultaneously down upon us from
a neighboring hillside and sane their Lorelei sone to Poorman,
who was tempted to go back and get his gun.
We managed to avoid actually getting into crevasses in
the glacier and switchback, although occasionally a leg would
disappear, and some anchoring and broad jumping was neces-
sary; but the most study was required on the final sharp rise
to the summit. A week’s heavy fresh snow covered the old ice
and snow on the steep slope, increasing the danger from
avalanches, and in negotiating the slope bad cross crevasses
“olory holes,” as Jack called them—had to be dealt with. For-
tunately, however, the new snow had avalanehed almost from
the top in a narrow strip, and we zigzagged in and close to
this strip, made good steps and kept the rope taut. Above us,
too, slightly to the right as we neared the top, was a projecting
hummock which would probably have divided an avalanche
from above, and we could, if threatened, quickly line up below
it and brace. But nothing untoward occurred. Even the final
bergeschrund, which we thought might cause us some work
and study, and which we were prepared to go down into and
up the other side, offered a splinter of a bridge which bore us
safely across; and, surmounting the final 15 or 20-foot vertical
The Mountaineer 39
snow wall with a straight frontal attack, digging in with
fingers and toes, I found myself, at 1:30 o'clock p. m., within
twenty feet of the highest rocks on the peak, thus justifying
our careful reconnaissance, for we had not actually seen the
summit since long before leaving the main glacier. Up swarmed
the others, and at a signal the highest rock felt its first touch
of human feet simultaneously given. Our sizing up had been
accurate even as to the time necessary for different parts of the
climb, and we returned to camp shortly after 6 p. m., as I had
told the boys we probably would.
We intended to name the peak, the elevation of which is
about 10,200 feet, Mt. Thompson, after the early explorer, but
I have since found that there is another Mt. Thompson, so a
different name must be given. The view was perhaps the most
superb of the summer. The immense curve of the Starbird
Glacier, the striking contrast offered by the snow and ice fields
and rugged summits of the West Kootenay ranges, with the
deep, green, intervening valley, and the tremendous Alpine
sweep along the crest of the main range to the south, to the
head of Toby Creek and beyond, and to the Spiilimacheen
Mountains in the north, combined in a wonderful, glorious
panorama.
All hail to Horse Thief and Toby Creeks! And there are
other creeks as little known, leading to unclimbed summits of
these, the noblest of the Selkirks. There is an urgent eall to
the mountaineer and hunter, and it will not long remain un-
answered. Stevenson says: “We are not content to pass away
entirely from the scenes of our delight; we would leave, if but
in gratitude, a pillar and a legend.”
We have built our cairns, and this is the story. And there,
awaiting other explorers and climbers, are
“the hills,
Flashing the morn abroad
From their iron crests, which took
The rose of creation’s dawn—
Themselves the earliest book,
On whose carven crags, deep-drawn
Stands written the will of God.”
40 The Mountaineer
THE BENEDICTION OF THE MOUNTAINS
Rev. Frepertck T. Wess
The treasured memory of twelve years’ residence near to
the very heart of the Rockies and nine years in daily sight of
the splendid Cascades and the wild Olympics and the amazing
“Mountain that was God”, with many a vacation hour spent
in their suggestive and serene solitudes, has convinced me that
mountains have a very distinet individuality. That is a
truism. But they have more than this; something like a very
live and majestic personality. It is scarcely a metaphor to
sav: we sit at their feet and learn, that we commune with them,
that our hearts go out to them and that they give answer back
to us.
Have you not felt as if these pine-clad, snow-garmented
peaks were wrapping you in their great friendship? You do
not feel that they are standing aloof coldly awaiting your
homage; they take you to themselves, into their grandeur.
They impart their strength; you warm their loneliness; and
in the union of mountain and man you realize your oneness
with the great universe itself, and are in toueh with the throb-
bing soul of God.
I believe the very presence of the mountains is a benedie-
tion. And so is the mountain’s altitude. Whether he will or
not, it lifts one up; first the eye, to scale its sides, and then
the soul. All who love the mountains or look upon them are
not actual mountain climbers, but the vision of them all moves
to the skies, of necessity, under the mountain's leadership.
And their example! Is not that, too, a benediction? All
the seeret of life is with them. How responsive they are to
the creative agencies of nature, still at work. This is their
submission to the discipline of life. The pink glow of sunset
is the mountain's gratitude for the light of the passing day in
as a brave
which they have bathed. They stand immovable
man may, upon the granite basis of his faith, while the heat
and the storm and the slow erosion of the rocks are doing for
The Mountaineer {1
their form what the storm and stress of experience are doing
for the human soul; moulding it into shape.
It is so firm and true,—the mountain, yet it is not ungra-
ciously stoical. Its varied moods are the token of its sympathy
with the changing processes which are bringing it to the per-
fection of a more finished beauty. And all the while it keeps
up its ministry, through the fertilizing streams, to the needs
of the green and fruitful valleys below and so to the people
who dwell there.
“The Lord bless thee and keep thee; the Lord make his
face to shine upon thee and bless thee; the Lord lift up the
light of His countenance upon thee and give thee peace.”
May we not so read the benediction of the mountains?
AT SUNSET
$2 The Mountaineer
THE FUTURE OF THE RAINIER NATIONAL
PARK
ASAHEL CURTIS
The most pressing need in mountain affairs in Washington
at the present time is the improvement and extension of the
roads of the Mt. Rainier National Park. The mountain is
attracting wide attention and people are coming from afar to
visit it. If they find the mountain accessible they will tell
their friends about their trip and the mountain will receive
the best form of publicity. If, on the other hand, they find
there are no roads or only one fair one, they will prob-
ably so state and by so doing dissuade many from a visit.
Now is the time to go at this matter with all the vim that
can be shown, and the Mountaineers should be the ones to
lead in this work. They should prove that they know what is
needed in mountain work in the state and not leave this
important work for the commercial bodies of the two cities.
The work is broader than the purposes of commercial bodies,
the park is a national one and not a Seattle, Tacoma, or even a
Washington one. Therefore the work in behalf of the park
should be national. The senators and representatives of
Washington may work for a system cf roads, but they must
have the support of others before the necessary bills will pass.
The elub should organize a campaign of publicity, get the
eastern mountain clubs to help and have them take the matter
up with their senators and representatives, urging the passage
of this bill. Eleven thousand people passed through the park
entrance last season. The majority of these would be willing
to write to their representatives at Washington in favor of a
bill to improve the roads. They know that they need improve-
ment. President Taft was able to reach Paradise Park, but he
learned just what was needed to make the road a success.
The first thing that should be decided upon is a plan of
action that can be followed for years, and all parts of the park
opened. No money can be appropriated for roads until surveys
are made, therefore those surveys should be started the coming
summer.
Copyright Asahel Curtis
Mt. Rainier from Indian
Henry’s Hunting Ground southwest side of
the mountain. A survey has been made for a road into this park from
the present road to Longmire Springs. This road should be constructed
as soon as possible to afford a relief to the crowds now
going to Paradise
Park. This road would also open up Van Trump Park, which lies be-
tween Paradise and Indian Henry’s.
The Mountaineer 13
There is need of a road on the north side as well as the
south side. This can go from the present road at or near
Fairfax and reach the ice of the Carbon Glacier. From this
point it can be continued into both Spray and Moraine parks.
Some road should be opened from the east to permit people to
come in on that side and go out via the south. The important
thing is to decide as soon as possible where roads are to be
constructed and then see that a continuing appropriation is
made for such development.
There is no question but that the present road should be
widened from Ashford to Paradise Park sufficient to permit
autos and stages to travel over it safely. The government
began a stage road to the park and then allowed the use of
autos. This has created a menace which the government is
morally bound to remove.
Right here in the matter of roads is where the Moun-
taineers can do a great good for the state. Being a state-wide
organization they can do much to remove the partisan spirit.
If Seattle and Tacoma ean be united upon a system of roads
for the Rainier National Park, the chance of getting the neces-
sary appropriations from Congress will be increased many fold.
As long as there is a feeling that the state is not united in
this matter Congress feels safe in passing up all appropriations.
A north road is certain to come and the Mountaineers
should be the first ones to back the movement for it. They are
familiar with the region to be opened, the scene of their 1909
outing, know of the beautiful parks that will be made acces-
sible to tourists, and should do all in their power to aid in
the work.
Superintendent Hall has opened some of the old trails on
the north side and built some new ones. An application has
been made for a hotel permit in Moraine Park, and also one
in Spray. It will be only natural, when these hotels are open,
for the tourist to wish to make the trip from one side to the
other. This will, more than anything else, lead to the opening
of trails, and later, roads around the mountain.
I realize that the true Mountaineer would much rather see
the mountains from the trail or the unexplored wilderness, but
to make mountains at all popular, to get the majority of people
into them, it is necessary to have roads.
44 The Mountaineer
ALL NIGHT ON AN ACTIVE VOLCANO
CHARLES ALBERTSON
Recent newspapers report a renewed activity of Asama
Yama in central Japan. Friends confirm these statements and
tell of the loss of human life. All this brings clearly to mind
a trip brother and I made to this energetie voleano-mountain
some years ago. It was in September, 1901, that we took
steamer from my home in Kobe for Yokohama. From there
we traveled probably a hundred miles by narrow gauge and
rack railway to a little village called Karuizawa, on the water-
shed of the unique Island Empire. Asama Yama is of voleanie
origin, without glaciers, young, and therefore shapely and
attractive. It is gray-brown, of broad base, conieal, and rises
in graceful curves from a plateau to a height of 8280 feet.
One splendid fresh morning we started from Karuizawa
at 8:30. Brother got away first while I was lengthening the
stirrup-straps. He had three men to his jinrickisha, one in the
shafts and two pushing. They swung out of the tiny mountain
hamlet at a lively pace and all knew we were bound for Asama.
After six miles the road began to elimb gradually and at eight
miles we stopped at a clear, cool spring to fill our water bottles,
as we should find no water beyond that point. We rested here
a little and then started on up the winding roadway over the
rounded foothills. In the cuts we could count three layers of
scoria or pumice each 15 to 24 inches thick with black earth
between. Evidently they were from three of Asama’s erup-
tions many centuries apart. At 11:30, ten miles out, we left
the road and turned in on the path which led to the foot of
Ko-Asama. This means “Baby” Asama, and a pretty little
thine it is, too. It is an exact miniature of the voleano and
rises a thousand feet above the base of Asama. Here we had
“tiffin” under a small pine. The jinrickisha could go no fur-
ther, but the pony did go on up to the saddle between the
baby mountain and its mother. We were now at 12:30 p. m.
at the base proper of the mountain and our real work had only
The Mountaineer 5
begun. Owing to the zig-zageineg of the trail we still had some
two miles to go to reach our goal. The route was marked by
stone cairns.
When about half way up to the top, which we were usually
watching, we saw an unexpected eruption like many we had
seen at longer range. It consisted of smoke, steam, and ashes,
one-eighth of a mile in diameter at the crater mouth, projected
about a mile and a half straight up in the air. It went sky-
ward, seemingly slowly, but in fact with great speed, gradually
unfolding and spreading out until the top was much larger than
the base upon which it appeared to stand. As the vast gray-
brown volume ascended, more of course took its place from the
crater, thereby keeping the form of the ever-rising shape. The
whole mass literally boiled and tried to unfold and unwind
and untwist hike great brown clouds each trying to get out of
the immensity of itself and vet always keeping an approximate
waterspout shape, unable to accomplish its separating purpose.
Soon the winds began to drift it over until its symmetry was
lost and it mingled with the clouds distinguishable only by
being a little darker in color. It had been a wonderful sight
and not soon to be forgotten. In a few minutes we were
treated to a rain of fine, penetrating, biting ashes. After
awhile we turned to the right and followed around the side of
the mountain instead of climbing directly up. This was easier
work, though more dangerous, for it took us across a very long
steep slope with preearious footing. At last this diagonal trail
brought us out on a fairly level knoll about 1000 feet from the
erater and 150 feet below it. We reached the top at 4:00
o'clock. The climb was 4500 feet.
When within 50 feet of the crater there was a booming
roar from directly under us like unto ten Niagaras. We were
instantly enveloped in ashes and a black sulphurous smoke
mixed with hot steam which had no respect for our sense of
smell any more than the ashes had for our eyesight. At the
same time we distinctly heard rocks and stones dropping back
into the liquid lava way down in the unearthly crater. They
fell with great, thick-sounding, heavy puds as of immense
bodies of ore dropping into molten iron. The falling masses
had an ugly, angry, spiteful sound as if sulky and mad at not
having been spit out of the seething mass entirely. There we
were in the smells and smokes fresh from hell and in semi-
LG The Mountaineer
darkness. Resounding in our ears a wild, baffled, awful roar
of rage from the very entranee itself. Under our feet we heard
and felt the rocks as they went plunging back into the yellow
heated cauldron from which they had only been partially
ejected. It was all so utterly unexpected, so sudden, without
any warning, that we heartily wished ourselves well out of it.
Photograph by Charles Albertson
Smoke, steam and gases erupting from ASama Yama. Column of vapors
three-fourths of a mile above the crater
The smoke cleared away and our tremulous nerves quieted
down. Then the first thing to do was to see where all the grew-
some fun came from, so we made for the edge of the crater.
The top for a very short distance around the great, yawning,
eireular hole is fairly flat and is one mass of rocks and lava
completely filled in with ashes. It is therefore very porous,
hollow sounding, and not well built to resist pressure. Standing
on such material we looked over into the uncertain pit. The
sides were straight up and down and we drew back in horror.
We had little faith in the unstable ground we stood on. Far,
far below we clearly heard the Devil’s awful kettle boiling,
slowly boiling, boiling rocks, boiling the foundations of the
earth, boiling the things we considered indestructible. Our
ideas of the permanency of things changed. It was not a
vigorous boiling, but gave a definite feeling of power, slow
The Mountaineer 4%
but awful power. Time was no object. The result would be
accomplished just the same. No hurry, but forever and ever
and ever boiling. On no fickle substance like water did it waste
its energy, but concentrated its action on ponderous adaman-
tine masses which took the power and heat of all the under-
worlds to melt. The mighty cupola spit and sputtered in a
dignified manner, knowing that it had unmeasured forces be-
hind it and that it was doing the irresistible will of the Fire
Gods. We could not see the bottom on account of the steam
which rose continually from the unknown depths, but we did
see down about 500 feet. The perpendicular rocks were such
as we had never seen before
though we will probably see
them as long »s we live, so vivid was the impression. They
were nauseating and infernal, a yellowish, sulphur-green,
roasted and grilled, baked and fried and toasted by the intense,
heat, and at some time had been cooked and boiled and par-
boiled in living red-hot lava. Everywhere we went we encoun-
tered sulphuretted steam, awesome radiating rock-crevasses,
warm rocks and areas so hot as to burn our shoes.
As we looked from the apex of the great cone, whole
provinces in quiet grandeur unfolded before our delighted
eyes. To the northeast was the verdureless, white Shirane
San, an extinct voleano, and Nantai San, which I had
climbed the year previous, shapely and verdure-clad. North,
west, and south were great ranges and peaks, while away in the
far south the peerless, graceful, magnificent Fuji appeared
easily distinguishable, though over a full 100 miles distant.
It towered 12,365 feet above the ocean, which almost washed
its base. I have climbed it twice. In the east was the great
Musashi plain stretching away to the mighty Pacific. Quiet
rivers ran through it, villages and cities dotted it, clumps of
straight, tall cryptomeria hid the inevitable shrine, and dainty
bamboo groves showed themselves in favored places as islands
in a sea of rich green, waving rice. Above all the noise and
strife of the world we felt the peacefulness of the great silences
and distances pervading us.
We wandered all over the summit, filled our hearts with
delight at the beautiful panorama lying in every direction, and
wondered at the proofs of power continually before us. Thus
talking, wondering, enjoying, investigating, we finally reached
the rock-crevasse just at dusk where we had left our dunnage
{S The Mountaineer
two and one-half hours before. We were hungry, very tired,
the excitement seemed over, the sun gone, darkness hurried
after us, damp misty clouds wrapped us, chill-cold gripped us.
We were suddenly alone in the night upon a mountain top, far
from home and our beloved world below.
Cries of piercing terror from the coolies made me look
toward the crater. What I saw transfixed me to the spot
spellbound—speechless—terrified. The sight was one of horror
and awful power. The great crater was violently vomiting.
The mountain shook. From the nether worlds came flame,
murky smoke, and red-hot exploding rocks. The thing burned
itself into me. I ean see it yet. The darkness, torn by livid
flame, then made darker by the smoke, the reports of the burst-
ing rocks, the crunching crashing of the rocks falling near us,
the solemn awfulness of the place, the unexpectedness, the
astounding manifestation of immeasurable hidden forces, and
the intense uncertainty as to what was coming next, all com-
bined to root me fast, overcome with awe and fear. The yawn-
ing abyss gradually stopped its action and only an occasional
sputter in the great yellow bottom of the cauldron gave evi-
dence that it was not entirely dead. But our peace was gone.
and more.
Our early desire to be nearer was fully gratified
We wished we were well out of it. Next morning we estimated
that we had been 800 feet from the edge of the great hole when
the eruption took place. Rocks had fallen to within a few feet
of where we stood. Some weighed a quarter of a ton. We
were fortunately just far enough away to miss the rain of
rocks—and no further.
We arranged to sleep just as far away from the crater as
ever we could get. It was in a long, narrow crevasse which
evidently was at one time a deep, painful, earthquake rent near
the edge of the mountain crest. The falling ashes had soothed
the wound to within a man’s height of the top. We were well
sheltered by an improvised carpet-tent from the driving damp
wind without and the dull damp floor beneath—but were not
comfortable in mind. It was dark and dangerous outside and
we could not escape from the mountain at night. Just before
we slept there were tremors and another eruption, but this time
of smoke only. Twice in the night I awoke to hear others and
to wonder what next. We were under the edge of a soft,
friable rock which a falling roek could easily crush down on
AVMV SUTIN NOL VMVZINUVS WOU VNVA VAVSV
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The Mountaineer 49
us. We were on the top of a most uncertain voleano which
behaved most strangely. I was full of a complexity of weird
feelings mingled with those of utter helplessness and danger.
All the surroundines were dark and fearsome—was it a wonder
that we slept uneasily and heartily weleomed the day?
At five in the morning as the dumb, grey, grizzly dawn was
finding itself out of the blackness in the east, we were awakened
by another loud explosion and crawled out to see once again
at close range the magnificent boiling smoke. The rocks this
time fell back into the hot bed whence they came. We felt
easier, for we expected to be off that place before the usual
time for another. There was no sunrise for us and our seant
breakfast was hastily eaten. Another look was ventured into
the great pit of the Evil One, but we could see nothing, as the
steam from his breakfast of sulphur and lava rose in great
volumes. The wind, too, stinging cold and keenly damp,
wrapped the clouds in gray, chilly sheets about us, so that we
were glad to make away from the haunted though enticing
pinnacle downwards toward the earth whence we had come, it
seemed, long, lone before. We made fast time getting off that
voleano, for in an hour and a half we were at the base of
Ko-Asama, mighty glad to be free from the mental tension of
the night before. Then it was we spread our blankets in the
gladsome sunshine, ate a bite, and stretched ourselves to sleep.
A half hour in the jinrickisha followed. Then an hour on
foot over a very ancient lava flow which was covered by a
sparse vegetation. This brought us to an ice eave under a
young lava bed only one hundred twenty years old. The great,
brown, cavernous mass rose abruptly before us and we
scrambled, climbed, jumped, and did various goat anties to get
up and out on the top. The sight we saw was wonderfully
impressive, for the bed was at least five miles long and two
miles wide. The formation was jagged and ragged, caved and
pitted, creviced and ecrannied, tossed and tumbled, browned
and burnt, scarred and seared, restless and confused. It showed
under us and all around us unmistakable proofs of a power
that in its action must have been tremendously and_ stupen-
dously magnificent. Some vast, awful, fearful, netherworld
force stirred to wrath had poured its vial of hot, surging lava
out over a beautiful world, leaving fearful destruction in its
path.
50 The Mountaineer
Even to this day there is no vegetation on the miles of
waste rock. The dust may fill a small crevice or two. The
rain moistens the seeds dropped therein by the birds, but that
is all. They are lke the biblical seeds that were dropped by
the wayside and brought forth fruit—no fold. This clean, new,
vegetationless bed, even though old by our standards, impressed
upon us a clear perception of the age of the world and the
long, slow processes of time. The usual and unusual incidents
of the trip, including our escape, had enlarged our soul vision
and made us meek.
We left the lava beds at two, were picked up by the shaky
jinrickisha at the lone tea house at three, had another drink out
of yesterday's spring at four, and in the gathering dusk at
6:30 we swung into Karuizawa, pleased, weary, tired. And
soon all those in the village whose tongues were Japanese
knew that a pair of foreigners had spent the night on top and
returned safely from the feared and mighty voleano, Asama
Yama.
AT CLOSE OF NIGHT ON VOLCANO
The Mountaineer 51
WITH THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
*P. M. McGrecor
The sixth annual camp of the Canadian Alpine Club was
held at Sherbrooke Meadows, B. C., from July 26th to August
4th, 1911. The camp was five miles from Hector, on the main
line of the Canadian Pacific railway, midway between Field and
Laggan. It was in a beautiful valley—mountains on both sides
and above, with Sherbrooke Lake a mile lower down the
valley and with Lefroy, Victoria, and Cathedral mountains in
sight across Lake Sherbrooke.
The elub furnished tents with good bough beds, sufficient
to care for 125 at one time. Over 150 attended the camp
during the nine days. There was a large dining tent capable
of seating about 80 at one time, located midway between the
men’s and women’s quarters. A Chinese cook and two assist-
ants cooked for the large party, and a maid cooked for the
help and for any meals outside the regular hours. There were
three maids and three boys to wait on the table. Tea was
served at 4 p. m. every afternoon for any ladies or others who
eared to indulge. There were three Swiss guides in attendance
during the outing, besides a number of the older members of
the club who acted as guides. The rope is used much more
than on the Coast mountains, the people being roped together
in parties of five or six as soon as the climbing becomes difficult.
There is very much more rock work and much more difficult
and dangerous climbing than in the Coast mountains. The
ice-aX 1s much more popular than the alpenstock and is better
for experienced climbers, especially on rock climbing. The
main object of the summer camp is to qualify or graduate mem-
bers. They become active members upon making one of the
climbs decided upon by the climbing committee. Mt. Daly,
10,382 feet, was the graduating climb this year. Mt. Ogden,
8,795 feet, was a nice climb close to camp, and Mt. Niles, 9,742
feet, was another one not far away. Pope’s Peak, 10,255 feet,
seven miles away, was to have been a graduating climb, but
*Official guest from Mountaineers to Alpine Club of Canada,
52 The Mountaineer
was found to be too difficult, so only a few had the pleasure
of making it. Five members of the Alpine Club and the repre-
sentatives of the Appalachian, Mazama and Mountaineer clubs
were given the trip up Popes Peak as a reward for their
attempts to help the graduating classes. Along with two Swiss
euldes this party made the ascent the same day that the
Mountaineers chmbed Mt. Adams. There was some rock work
that showed the guides to good advantage, and also showed the
need of the party being roped together. This climb was made
from a temporary camp at Ross Lake, the only place that the
Photograph by P. M. McGregor
LAKE LOUISE, PART OF VICTORIA GLACIER SHOWING THROUGH
THE CLOUDS
mosquitoes were bad. We spent one night there, but preferred
to make the trip to the top and back to main camp the same
day rather than spend another night there.
The annual meeting took place next day. There were 125
people in camp, a number coming in for that occasion, Elee-
tions take place every two years and this was the year that
they “stood,” so it was principally reports that were submitted
to the members. The seeretary’s report showed that the elub
had a paid-up membership of 650, that the club received grants
of money from the Dominion government, British Columbia
eovernment, Alberta government, and the Canadian Pacifie
Plate XV
Photograph by P. M. McGregor
MT. BIDDLE AND GLACIER. LAKE McARTHUR, ONE OF THE
MOST BEAUTIFUL LITTLE LAKES IN THE ROCKIES
The Mountaineer 53
railway, besides two Swiss guides free from the Canadian
Pacific railway during camp. This money is expended prin-
eipally on opening up and exploring new country, Mr. Wheeler
and the club guide being in the Yellowhead country all sum-
mer. There is a club house at Banff that is owned by a joint
stock company of members and leased to the club. Club mem-
bers receive from the Canadian Pacific railway a single fare
round trip from anywhere in Canada for the annual outing.
The meeting took place around the campfire. Vice-president
Patterson had charge of the camp in the absence of Mr.
Wheeler, president and director. He proved himself a very
hard working gentleman, met all new arrivals with a
handshake, directed them to the annex to the dining
tent if it was outside the regular meal hours, told them
where the secretary was to be found, and even ealled
the early parties at 4 o'clock in the morning for breakfast.
I do not think that he was out of camp for two hours
during the nine days. Mr. Forde, chaizman of the elimb-
ing committee, was a very capable gentleman, who with
two others on his committee gave all members a chance to
eraduate. Mr. Forde was out on a roye himself every day on
the same mountain, and finally as his ewn reward he went over
with two or three others to climb Popes Peak, but the guides
would not take them up as the snow was not safe, due to
much rain. Much rain fell during the camp, but generally at
night. Tents are more necessary than in our Coast mountains.
There were 63 members graduated this year.
The tents furnished by the elub are round ones, similar to
the army tent, and capable of accommodating about eight per-
sons per tent.
Active or associate members paid $2 a day—others, inelud-
ing any who failed to graduate, paid $3 a day, so that any who
came in for leisure around camp paid $1 a day more than the
climbers. One representative from any other mountain club
is put on the same standing as active members.
5. What other suggestions have you to offer?
“Will you kindly have sent to us, one of the maps which,
as a separate folder, accompanies the report upon the Olympic
Forest Reserve? This map I desire to return to you with the
proposed boundaries of the reserve indicated upon it.
“Tam sending you, under separate cover, a panoramic photo-
graph, which conveys a very good idea of the general char-
acter of the country proposed to be set apart as a reserve. The
endorsement upon the back of this photograph is self-explana-
tory.
The photograph referred to was the excellent picture of
the range made by Asahel Curtis, who was actively engaged
with Mr. Wright in this enterprise. When Congressman
Humphrey received that letter and the accompanying phioto-
eraph he laid both before President Roosevelt, who at once
turned to the law for National Monuments for authority, and
under date of 2 March, 1909, issued the following proclama-
tion:
“WHEREAS, The slopes of Mount Olympus and the ad-
jacent summits of the Olympie Mountains, in the State of
Washington, within the Olympie National Forest, embrace cer-
tain objects of unusual scientific interest, including numerous
glaciers, and the region which from time immemorial has
formed the summer range and breeding grounds of the Olympic
Elk (Cervus Roosevelti), a species peculiar to these mountains
and rapidly decreasing in numbers;
“Now, Therefore, I, Theodore Roosevelt, President of the
United States of America, by virtue of the power in me vested
by section two of the Act of Congress, approved June eighth,
nineteen hundred and six, entitled, “An Act for the preserva-
tion of American antiquities,’ do proclaim that there are here-
by reserved from all forms of appropriation under the puble
land laws, subject to all prior valid adverse claims, and set
apart as a National Monument, all the tracts of land, in the
counties of Jefferson, Clallam, Mason and Chehalis, in the State
of Washington, shown as the Mount Olympus National Monu-
ment on the diagram forming a part hereof, and more partic-
ularly located and deseribed as follows, to-wit:
“The reservation made by this proclamation is not intended
to prevent the use of the lands for forest purposes under the
58 The Mountaineer
proclamations establishing the Olympic National Forest, but
the two reservations shall both be: effective on the land with-
drawn, but the National Monument hereby established shall be
the dominant reservation and any use of the land which inter-
feres with its preservation or protection as a National Mon-
ument is hereby forbidden. Warning is hereby given to all
unauthorized persons not to appropriate, injure, remove, or de-
stroy any feature of this National Monument, or to locate or
settle upon any of the lands reserved by this proclamation.
“IN WITNESS WHEREOF, I have hereunto set my hand
and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed.
“Done at the City of Washington this second day of March,
in the year of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and nine,
and of the Independence of the United States the one hundred
and thirty-third.
THEODORE ROOSEVELT.”
This met with general applause throughout the Northwest
and the Mountaineers felt secure in the fruits of their labors
in that direction until there arose complaints that prospectors
and miners were hindered in their efforts to secure the min-
eral wealth supposed to exist within the Monument. This ob-
jection was promptly met in a characteristic way by the Moun-
taineers.
When Walter L. Fisher, Secretary of the Interior, visited
the Northwest he sought information about the Olympie Na-
tional Monument as he did about other matters within his jur-
isdiction. Asahel Curtis and Georee E. Wright were asked to
serve as a committee of the Mountaineers to present the facts
to Secretary Fisher. The elub wished to advocate every rea-
sonable wish of the miners. A conference was held by repre-
sentatives of the various commercial bodies and organizations
interested and it was amicably agreed to work together to pro-
cure the following general objects: To change the Olympie
National Monument into the Olympie National Park; to have
the United States Geological Survey make a careful survey of
the park as to its mineral resources; to permit mining and
prospecting under proper regulations within the park; to ad-
just the boundaries so as to inelude the summits of the moun-
tains and as little as possible of lands useful for agriculture
or forestry.
Plate XXIII.
Photograph by H. A. Fuller
MOUNTAINEERS IN THE GOAT ROCKS
The Mountaineer 59
Surprise and gratitude were expressed by the others inter-
ested that the Mountaineers took such liberal ground on ques-
tions naturally dear to them. Such has always been the at-
titude of the Mountaineers. They want to save generous play-
grounds for the whole people. The time is already upon us
when such attractive parks are appreciated. As the population
and tourist travel increase so will increase the intrinsic value
of such parks. Anyone at all familiar with the conditions in
Switzerland, California, the Yellowstone Park and elsewhere
know that the whole Puget Sound country is destined to be-
come an alluring place for travelers and that such visitations
help enormously to develop and embellish the region visited.
There are now thousands of people in various parts of this
Republic who have enjoyed visits to the Mount Rainier Na-
tional Park. They would rebel vigorously against any attempt
to harm that wonderful beauty spot of earth. As methods of
approach are improved there will arise other thousands who
will be equally loyal to the Olympic National Park.
The Mountaineers wish to help in every way possible to
build trails and roads into these parks and to safeguard the
beauties of nature there for the free enjoyment of all the peo-
ple.
Photograph by R. J. Hagman
r
ening neta YOO” A
Copyright Asahel Curtis
On the road to Mt. Rainier.* This shows a portion of the road that
the Government has just completed to timber-line on the southern side
of the mountain. It has cost $240,000 to complete the 25 miles of road-
way and a large appropriation should be made to widen and improve it.
Plate XIII.
Copyright Asahel Curtis
Spray Park on the northwest side of the mountain. This vast park
is now reached only by a poor system of trails and this region should be
opened as quickly as possible. No road work can be done until surveys
are made and therefore it becomes necessary to decide upon the system
of roads for the whole park and then work out these details. In this
way a complete road system will be possible.
‘MONYOTd IW JO Jruruns
94} MO[eq P[aYMOUS B UO Way} SMOYS ON
; LOIN oyu Aq pe
uljno [Njss Ss AIOA 9 S
SINVAGV ‘LW AO LNYOSV
HHL ONINNIOWEH SUYWANIVINOOW WAHL
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Al,
Photograph by Charles Albertson
ELEVATION 6,000 FT.
CISPUS PASS,
NEAR
SHEEP
BAND OF
—J)
Photograph by H. V. Abel
SNOW CORNICE ABOVE KLICKITAT GLACIER, MT. ADAMS
WHITE BARK PINE (PINUS CONTOR
te
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PARK
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RAINII
4
THE
IN
The Mountaineer
Volume Four
Notes of Other Clubs
Other Notes
Correspondence
ere.
60 The Mountaineer
NOTES OF OTHER CLUBS.
The Mazamas, about forty in number, left Port-
land the morning of August 2d, 1911, for Seattle,
and on to Wenatchee that night, taking the
steamboat up the Columbia the next day to Chelan Falls; staged up
to Lakeside, and from there a small steamer took them up Lake
Chelan to Stehekin, at the upper end of the lake, arriving that even-
ing, August 3d.
They left the next day, proceeding to Bullion, ten miles up the
Stehekin river, where they camped over night at the fork of Bridge
Creek and Agnes Creek trail, near the ranger’s cabin. The next day
Glacier Peak Outing
of the Mazama Club
they walked over the trail, up the south fork of Agnes Creek, to a
cabin several miles below Cloudy and Suiattle passes. The day fol-
lowing they kept on over Suiattle Pass, down the canyon, to the ford
below Glacier Mine, and over the two divides to Buck Creek Pass,
where the main camp was established at the same place the Moun-
taineers had chosen the year previous.
The weather going in was cloudy and threatening, with fog and
occasional showers, but cleared the second day after making the
main camp.
The writer came into camp several days late, having come down
from the outing of the Alpine Club of Canada, where he represented
the Mazamas, and met P. M. McGregor, representing the Moun-
taineers, who will confirm the statement that the Canadian Rockies
is a most alluring place for mountain enthusiasts to visit.
I arrived in camp August 11th, the day the Mazamas made their
official climb. They had left camp the day previous, following the
Mountaineers’ trail over Little and Big Suiattle, across Chocolate
Creek, and up the ridge above Chocolate Glacier, making camp a few
hundred yards below the site selected by the Mountaineers. After a
successful climb on August 11th, all making the summit, four of the
party returned to the main camp the same day, the others staying
over night at the upper camp and returning leisurely the next day.
The next morning a party of six, two ladies and four men, with
sleeping bags and provisions, started on a knapsack trip for Glacier
Peak, taking the route the main party had taken, and reaching their
camp site about three o’clock. We were just below the ridge rising
from Chocolate Glacier in a small mountain meadow near the snow
line looking out over a deep canyon with an extensive view of the
ranges beyond which we enjoyed to the utmost. I have ascended over
twenty snow peaks, but have never seen such perfect cloud panorama
as we experienced climbing Glacier Peak. We rose at three o'clock,
started at 4:30, followed the ridge through such heavy fog as to make
us speculate if we could follow the back trail should we be obliged
to turn back. Soon we noticed the fog was growing lighter, and sud-
The Mountaineer 61
denly we came out above the fog, and what had been a cold, cheerless
fog proved a sea of wonderful billowy clouds, with peaks rising like
small islands from an angry tempest-swept sea, the clouds rolling up
to where we stood, threatening to sweep us off our feet, the rising
sun tinting the crest of the billows a delicate crimson. Coming as
it did after the gloom and chill we had just passed through, the con-
trast was overpowering. All the way up, over the glacier, we re-
peatedly looked back. From the summit we could easily make out
Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and other peaks above the clouds, and the
latter breaking, we could look down into the canyons and timbered
valleys far below. We made the summit at 9:10, staved an hour, and
descended to main camp at 11:50, and after a brief rest and lunch,
took the back trail, arriving at Buck Creek camp about seven that
evening. I mention the time, as it may be of interest to fhe Moun-
taineers, who preceded us the year previous, and greatly helped us
by the trails they had blazed to Glacier Peak.
The Mazamas broke main camp the next morning, August 16th,
and camped that evening below Cloudy Pass, stayed over an extra
day to give all an opportunity to visit Lyman Lake and Glacier, and
then retraced their way down Agnes Creek, stopping at Bullion over
night. and reaching Stehekin at noon the next day, August 20th.
The Mazamas left that afternoon for Lakeside, caught the steam-
boat at Chelan Falls next morning, the train at Wenatchee that after-
noon, and were back in Portland Monday morning, August 21st.
R. L. GLISAN
The Appalachians spent about two weeks during
this summer among the summits and trails of
the Sandwich range, just north of Lake Winnipe-
saukee. There were about thirty members in the party and
nearly twenty made the climb of Whiteface and Passaconaway,
about 4,000 feet high. The club maintains a small shelter at
the foot of the cone of the mountain in which as many spent
the night as the size of the shelter would permit. Fourteen of
the party climbed Sandwich dsme, which made a good half day climb.
The program for the last week included a climb to Chocorua, a day
at Bear Camp Pond and an overnight temporary camp at Black Moun-
tain Pond, high up under the south knob of the mountain. The char-
acter of eastern mountain climbing as compared to climbing here-
abouts is well indicated by the following reference to the path being
marked by a sign: “Any who think of tramping in to Flat Mountain
Pond from Whiteface should inquire the way, since the wood road
leading to the path is not marked with a sign.” The Appalachians
maintain a number of huts and camps about the White Mountains for
the use of whoever may pass.
Appalachian Camp
at Whiteface
The 1911 outing of the Sierra Club was held in
the Yosemite National Park. A preliminary camp
was established in Yosemite Valley for the two
weeks preceding the main outing. The unusually high water in the
streams made a wonderful spectacle of the falls this year and the
Activities ofthe Sierra
Club During 1911
62 The Mountaineer
valley was crowded with visitors. On July 7th the main outing party
left San Francisco, reaching Yosemite Valley the next day. The
morning of the 10th the Yosemite camp was struck and the start
made for the high country. One hundred and eighty-five members were
on the outing list, and with the addition of cooks, packers, and as-
sistants the party numbered over two hundred persons.
The first camp was made in Little Yosemite, and the second at
Lake Merced, where two days were devoted to the exploration of the
upper Merced Basin and the climb of Mt. Clark (11,506). Thence the
party traveled across Vogelsang Pass and down Rafferty Creek to the.
Tuolumne Meadows, a most beautiful and spacious mountain garden
spot about 9,000 feet in elevation, which is the finest camping ground
in the Sierra and so located that an almost unlimited number of trips
may be taken from it. Ascents of Dana (13,050), Lyell (13,090), Rit-
ter (13,156) and Conness (12,556), trips to Tioga Lake for fishing or
down the Bloody Canyon to the volcanic regions about Mono Lake,
fishing parties up and down the Tuolumne River, picnics on Lam-
bert’s Dome, cr swimming in Dog Lake filled to overflowing the five
days that were spent there. A two days’ camp at the mouth of Con-
ness Creek gave an opportunity to visit the more wonderful falls
near the head of the Tuolumne Canyon before setting out on the trip
that was the main feature of this outing—the circuit of the northern
portion cf the park. For more than a week camp was shifted nearly
every day. Matterhorn, Kerrick, Stubblefield and Tilden canyons,
Rogers, Benson and Tilden lakes were visited, Piute Mt. and Ranch-
eria Mt., Matterhorn and Tower Peak were climbed and then the
party journeyed to Hetch Hetchy, remaining there for three days be-
fore taking the homeward trail via Crockers and the Merced and
Tuolumne groves of sequoias to El Portal. No accidents marred the
trip and the only inconvenience suffered was from one or two heavy
thundershowers whose wonderful cloud scenery more than compen-
sated for the temporary discomfort.
The Le Conte Memorial Lodge opened as usual on May 15th and
was maintained for three months as the club’s Yosemite Valley head-
quarters. Several valuable additions have been made to the library
and equipment of the Lodge and the fact that more than 5,000 people
visited it last summer shows that it is gaining an important place
for itself in the valley. A herbarium was installed this summer and a
complete collection of Yosemite wildflowers will be secured as soon
as possible. Maps and photographs of the High Sierra are on dis-
play there and information regarding trails and camping places freely
given. As interest in the more unfrequented portions of the Yosemite
National Park is increasing each year the Lodge’s usefulness is only
in its beginning.
The weekly local walks in the vicinity of San Francisco continue
te hold their popularity and a similar movement has been started in
Southern California. The average attendance in the Bay region is
about fifty, pleasant days often calling out as many as eighty or
ninety. A feature that grows in favor is the over-night trip, taken
The Mountaineer 63
to embrace all holidays falling on a Saturday or Monday, and also a
Saturday afternoon and Sunday trip each month when the moon is
near the full. Some of the voints thus visited have been Mt. Diablo,
Mt. St. Helena, the Big Basin (Santa Cruz Mts.), the Redwood Grove
of the Bohemian Club and the Armstrong Big Tree Grove along the
Russian River, Duxbury Reef at Bolinas, Inverness (on Tomales Bay),
Bear Valley, La Honda and Potrero Meadows. Some of these have
been taken as pure knapsack trips, in others the over-night stop has
been made at a hotel, and on still others some of the party have knap-
sacked while others have remained at a hotel. Though hardly to be
classed among the “local’’ excursions one of the activities planned
by the Local Walks Committee was a mid-winter trip to Yosemite
Valley, which gave about twenty dwellers in the Bay region the novel
experience of ice skating, skeeing, coasting and snow balling.
MARION RANDALL PARSONS
. ; There is plenty of good work going on in Switz-
Swiss Alpine erland in the way of true alpinism. A Zurichose
Club mountaineer, M. Triek, of the Uto section of the
Swiss Alpine Club, ascended on July 30, for the first time this year,
the difficult and dangerous pass of Crast’Aguzza, between the Mor-
terasch Glacier and the upper Scerscen Glacier, in the Bernina group.
The section Diablerets early in August made its regular excursion to
the Grisons, climbing in considerable numbers Piz Segnes, near Flims
(10,174 feet) and Sardona, about fifty feet lower.
The Diablerets section has been in evidence against this season,
this time at Zermatt, where, on August 7, ten members, having for
guests two of the Montreux section, climbed the Matterhorn with-
out a guide. It was a gala day for the grim old mountain, for not
less than thirty-two persons were on its summit, and at the hut it
was necessary for half of the company to sleep out of doors. It was
stormy in the night, but no one was the worse.
The convention of mountain climbing clubs called by the Hono-
lulu Trai) and Mountain Club was held in Honolulu during the week
from February 22d to February 28th, 1911.. The meetings were very
informal in their nature. The desirability of some joint action by
the clubs on the Coast giving a member of one club temporary rights
and privileges of their clubs when visiting the other places was dis
cussed and it was the sense of the meeting that such courtesy should
be extended as far as possible.
The Pan Pacific Congress held a convention at the same time
and place and they have under consideration the establishing of per-
manent headquarters in some state in the United States, possibly
New York, and the suggestion was made to the mountain climbing
clubs to have desk room there where any one interested could se-
cure information regarding the work done, trips taken and contem-
plated, and could read the magazines and bulletins which would be
filed.
64 The Mountaineer
NOTES.
PERMANENT FUND. Article XI of our new constitution pro-
vides that “all membership dues, initiation fees and gifts, unless oth-
erwise stipulated by the donor, together with such amounts from the
organization funds as the board may direct, shall constitute a_per-
manent fund. This shall be safely and separately invested and the
income only used.’ The nucleus of the new fund is $33.00, now draw-
ing interest.
MOUNTAINEERS AND BOY SCOUTS. Major EH. S. Ingraham,
veteran mountaineer and Scout Commissioner of the Boy Scouts of
America in Seattle, asks the co-operation of the Mountaineers in his
work in the latter organization, and nc movement of recent years is
more worthy of our encouragement.
The three-fold aim of the Scouts is, strengthening the body, train-
ing the mind, and building up the character, and is based upon the
practical idea of leading a boy to be thorough, honorable, and alert
in his play and to be thoughtful of others. It shows him how to gain
skill in play by learning many useful things. It relies on the psychol-
ogical fact that the boy, with his irresistible curiosity, turns in fun
to inquire intc many things that have a practical and educational
value.
The boys by becoming Scouts have an opportunity to learn wood-
craft, gain knowledge of birds and trees, learn the secrets of the
woods, to swim, paddle a canoe, and do many other things boys love
to do. At all times they have over them a Scout Master, whose cre-
dentials have been approved, and who is really their physical, mental,
and character trainer. He watches over them and guides them in
their play and their various activities, trains them in alertness, self-
reliance, and other Scout virtues. His aim is to turn out useful, self-
reliant, alert, honest citizens.
The Scout “oath” or promise says: “On my honor I will do my
best—1. To do my duty to God and my country, and to obey the Scout
Law; 2. To help other people at all times; 3 To keep myseif physically
strong, mentally awake, and morally straight.”
The Scout Law has twelve planks, and if a boy obeys them he will
be an excellent Scout. The points are:
1. A Scout is trustworthy. 7. A Scout is obedient.
2. A Scout is loyal. 8. A Scout is cheerful.
3. A Scout is helpful. 9. A Scout.is thrifty.
4. A Scout is friendly. 10. A Scout is brave.
5. A Scout is courteous. 11. A Scout is clean.
6. A Scout is kind. 12. A Scout is reverent.
Major Ingraham’s greatest need just now is for men to look after
the patrols. Mr. Jack Morrill, a Mountaineer, has become an enthu-
The Mountaineer 65
siastic Scout Master and other volunteers for like services are de-
sired. Surely there is a great work for the Mountaineers in co-operat-
ing in the splendid work of making good citizens, and training good
material for future Mountaineers.
The Research Committee of the National Geographic Society has
made an appropriation of $5,000 from the research fund to continue
the studies of the Alaska glaciers which were conducted by the so-
ciety in 1909 and 1910. The work this year was in charge of Prof.
Ralph S. Tarr of Cornell University and Prof. Lawrence Martin of the
University of Wisconsin.
While Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America it is
also remarkable in having the longest snow and ice slope of any of
the world’s great mountains. This mountain demands about 18,000
to 19,000 feet of snow and ice work, while Mount Everest, the world’s
highest peak, has a perpetual snow line of between 17,000 and 18,000
feet, leaving only 11,000 to 12,000 feet of snow. The Parker-Browne
expedition to Mount McKinley spent fifty nights continuously on snow
and ice, and experienced difficulties as great in attaining an elevation
of 10,300 feet as any to be encountered in reaching an altitude of
20,000 feet in the Himalayas.
The Sierra Club of California has recently accomplished important
work in the planting of trout in fishless lakes and streams. The club
took up this work several years ago, co-operating with the California
Fish and Game Commission. In a few years the regions planted will
become a veritable ‘fisherman’s paradise’. A large sum was appro-
priated for the work, which enabled them to equip two pack trains
with specially built cans and other necessary apparatus.
The “Mountaineer” department of the Boston Transcript, con-
ducted by John Ritchie, Jr., is a veritable clearing house of mountain
information.
Miss Dora Keen, who attempted the ascent of Mt. Blackburn in
Alaska last summer and was compelled to return on account of in-
sufficient supplies, has a splendid record as a climber in the high Alps
in the summer of 1909. In summarizing and contrasting her 16 climbs,
she ranks the Matterhorn as the hardest, because it was so long un-
der the conditions that they had, and was hard all the time, but the
Chamonix guides do not admit that it is harder than the Aiguilles.
In general, except for the Matterhorn, the ascents at Chamonix were
66 The Mountaineer
harder, more interesting, and more of an anxious strain than those
at Zermatt.
The frontispiece of this issue was done by Mr. A. H. Denman and
Mr. A. H. Barnes of Tacoma.
“Awards for mcuntain climbing achievements,” is the novel an-
nouncement made by the Swedish Olympic Committee, in connection
with the fifth series of International Olympic Games which will oc-
cupy 2 month the coming summer—June 29 till July 22—at Stockholm.
The Swedish committee has decided to award a gold Olympic medal
for the finest performances during the years 1908-1911 in game shoot-
ing and mountain ascent, respectively. This is an innovation in that
it places mountaineering very properly in the sports and fortunately
in a way free from the arbitrary rules that so often give athletic
awards to the most tricky rather than to the most meritorious. The
leading alpine clubs in the world have the right to propose candidates
for these prizes. The judging will be carried out by a special jury,
the decision of which shall be in the hands of the Swedish Olympic
Committee at latest by June 1.
Mr. P. M. McGregor was the Mountaineer representative on the
outing of the Alpine Club of Canada for 1911.. It is hoped that a reg-
ular exchange of guests with other clubs may be instituted.
The Sierra Club Bulletins of 1911 are splendid mountaineering
journals and show the great work that organization is doing. The
feature of the January, 1911, number is “Cathedral Peak and the Tuo-
lumne Meadows,” by John Muir. This article is an extract from the
author’s journal, “My First Summer in the Sierra,’ published this
spring by Houghton, Mifflin Company, Boston, with illustrations by
the author and Herbert W. Gleason.
Refreshing as a mountain breeze comes Prof. Meany’s collection
of poems, “Mountain Campfires’. Most of the verses were written for
the Mountaineer campfires of the various outings and will be wel-
comed by the Mountaineers as a delightful reminder of charming days
in the open and delightful hours of rest around the evening fires. The
poems include a sonnet to Mt. Rainier, poems to Mt. Adams and
Glacier Peak, charming verses to the mountain flowers, trees and lakes.
The book is from the press of Lowman and Hanford and is a dainty
volume bound in Japanese wood veneer with an interesting poster
cover design.
1 ee fy
Beautifully illustrated by photographs and paintings by the author,
“Our Greatest Mountain” is just from the press. The literary side is
The Mountaineer 67
largely by A. H. Denman, of Tacoma, including ‘Outdoors in Western
Washington,” “The Mountaineers,’ and “The Mountain,” incorporating
Prof. Meany’s poem “The Law of the Hills’. Mr. Barnes is to be con-
gratulated upon the artistic beauty and general excellence of work-
manship. The book is destined to exert a wide influence and will
prove a valuable addition to any mountain lover’s library.
A second edition of ‘“‘The Mountain that was ‘God’,” by John H.
Williams, of Tacoma, is just from the press of G. P. Putnam’s Sons,
New York and London. A copy recently received shows interesting
additions both in the text and the illustrations. We predict for the
volume an even more extended popularity than the earlier edition and
increased influence in attracting attention to our national park and
the great ‘Monarch of the Coast”.
RESOLUTIONS.
WHEREAS: Our Almighty Father has calied to rest our associate,
and
WHEREAS: Frank S. Southard was an earnest, active, and helpful
member of The Mountaineers from the beginning of the club’s organ-
ization to the hour of his death; therefore be it
RESOLVED: By the Board of Directors in meeting assembled for
this special purpose, that we give expression to our appreciation of
his noble aualities of manhood, to our sorrow over his being called
up the last long trail, and to our sympathy with members of his
bereaved family; and be it further
RESOLVED: That we invite all the members of The Mountaineers
to assemble at the time and place designated for the funeral that we
may give to our departed friend a last tribute of respect.
WHEREAS: The fifth annual outing of the Mountaineers is about
to close; and,
WHEREAS: This outing has been in all essentials highly pleas-
urable owing not only to the scenic character of the route selected
but also to the excellent camp management; and,
WHEREAS: The trip has presented unusual and unexpected dit-
ficulties calling for exceptional services and sacrifice on the part of
many committees and individuals; therefore, be it
RESOLVED: That we acknowledge our appreciation particularly:
FIRST: To those who originally gathered the information and
projected the route.
68 The Mountaineer
SECOND: To the present outing committee whose untiring en-
ergy and painstaking efforts have overcome all obstacles and brought
the outing to a successful consummation.
THIRD: To David McColl, the sheep herder, Albert Bertschi,
the forest ranger, and Hugo Kuhnhausen of Lewis, who rendered in-
valuable services in overcoming unforeseen difficulties.
FOURTH: To those who accompanied the pack train in to Lang-
mire Springs and gave freely of their time and energy in outlining
the best possible course.
FIFTH: To the scouts and all others who were called upon or
volunteered to make extra trips for the benefit of the party or of in-
dividuals for whose welfare the party felt responsible.
SIXTH: To the doctor and nurses who rendered gratuitous pro-
fessional services.
SEVENTH: To the program committee and all who in any way
contributed to the camp-fire program, especially to our gifted pres-
ident whose Indian lore and nature verses have added a peculiar charm
and interest to our evening gatherings.
EIGHTH: To the packers to whom fell the arduous labor of
transporting our provisions and dunnage over well-nigh impassable
trails and completed the task without accident of any kind.
NINTH: To the chef and his capvable assistants, “who worked
while their companions slept’, and whose skill, industry and splendid
management added to their enviable record gained on previous trips.
AND FINALLY: To the many who have not otherwise been men-
tioned but who have cheerfully and unselfishly given of their strength
and talent to make this outing one of the most memorable the club
has ever undertaken; and be it further
RESOLVED, That these resolutions be made a part of the records
of the club and printed in the official publication and that copies be
sent to Mr. McColl, Mr. Bertschi and Mr. Kuhnhausen.
ROBERT E. MORITZ
WINONA BAILEY
GERTRUDE INEZ STREATOR
A. H. BRACKETT
WINIFRED MACFARLAND
Committee on Resolutions
The Mountaineer 69
CORRESPONDENCE.
When in Seattle on his way to Alaska, Secretary of the Interior
Walter L. Fisher asked Mr. Asahel Curtis to prepare a list of
suggestions for the Rainier National Park. Such a list was prepared
and submitted to him. Some such vlan of action should be decided
upon and a strong committee put at work to see that it is carried out
They should have the support of the club members until the Moun-
taineers are recognized as a power that must be reckoned with in all
affairs pertaining to the mountains.
As Secretary Fisher writes, it is necessary to get the people
of the state of Washington interested in this and get the appropria-
tions through Congress. The Secretary of the Interior has recom-
mended appropriations for the park many times, but there has been
no support of his recommendations and they have failed of congress-
ional approval. A recommendation has been included in the Secre-
tary’s report this year. It is now up to the people of the state that
it does not fail in Congress.
November 9, 1911
Dear Sir:
I have been examining your communications of September 7th and
8th, with regard to Rainier National Park, and am very much inter-
ested in them. I find, however, that practically all of your suggestions
will reauire funds that are not now available. Indeed, the entire ques-
tion of what is to be done at the Rainier Park depends so very largely
upon the action of the next Congress with regard to the appropriations
and also the creation of the proposed Bureau of National Parks, that
I suggest that you take it up with the people in the State of Wash-
ington who are interested and see what can be done to secure from
Congress the necessary legislation and appropriations. It will give me
very great pleasure, indeed, if Congress enables us to put the national
park administration on an efficient basis, and if adequate funds are
supplied to develop these parks as they should be developed.
I believe that Inspector Keys, of this department, is now in the
Rainier Park making an investigation, the result of which will be re-
ported for our use before the Appropriations Committee.
Thanking you for your kind expressions with regard to myself, I
am, Sincerely yours,
(Signed) WALTER L. FISHER,
Secretary
Suggestions for work in the Rainier National Park in the order of
their importance:
1st. The creation of a Bureau of National Parks and the appoint-
ment of a National Park Commission.
2nd. The organization of a definite project for the construction of
trails and roads within the National Park in order that all work done
+0 The Mountaineer
in its development be toward some definite end, and be of permanent
value. This project should consist of two separate divisions, one for
trail work and one for roads. The trail work seems to be of first im-
portance, for at present the park is practically at the mercy of a fire
and large areas are closed to all travel.
The following vroject is suggested for the park, the subjects being
given in the following order of their importance:
Ist. The opening of the old trails on the mountain, where such
trails are on the general line of travel, and the establishment of new
trails to enable the vark rangers to go from one park on the mountain
to another without making the long detour to the lower valleys now
necessary. This trail work seems very necessary to afford fire pro-
tection, for as the trails now exist it would, in many cases, take a day
or two to reach a fire that was only a few miles away. A proper system
of trails would triple the value of the rangers.
2nd. Widening the present road from the park entrance to Para-
dise Valley to a width of sixteen feet and the construction of parapets
at dangerous points, to prevent autos and stages from going off grade.
(This recommendation is made because it is now practically recog-
nized that this road is creating a new situation in national parks af-
fairs, and that it will not long be possible to keen the autos off the
mountain road above the glacier. The fact that the vark is close to
two big cities and that a large auto traffic is already making use of
the road to the glacier, is in a measure forcing the situation.) At
present this road is not safe for the combined traffic that is permitted
to use it, that of stages and autos. The road was built as a stage road
and later autos were nermitted to use it. Now that such permission
has been given the only safe course to take is to make it wide enough
to accommodate both kinds of travel.
5rd. The extension of the present road from Paradise Valley along
the route suggested by Eugene Ricksecker through Magnetic Park and
around the Cowlitz Glacier to Cowlitz Park on the southeast side of
the mountain. This road should be connected with the road system
of Yakima County to enable the people of eastern Washington to visit
the National Park.
4th. The extension of the present road from some point above
Longmire through Van Trump Park to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground.
This would open up one park that is now inaccessible to any form of
travel except afoot across ice-fields and deep canyons.
5th. The construction of a road up the valley of the Carbon to the
ice-fields and thence to Spray Park on the northwest slope and into
Moraine Park on the north slope of the mountain. This country is
now reached only by a system of trails that is wholly inadequate for
fire protection or tourist travel. The north side is almost inaccessable
at present, and in some cases if a ranger saw a fire when it started it
would be two days before he could get to it.
A system of roads as given above would require years to complete
and if the work was started the road would naturally continue all
The Mountaineer Peal
around the mountain. Before such an extensive road system could be
completed it would be necessary to build a very complete system of
trails and it would not be advisable to make them along the line of
the proposed road.
A shelter should be erected at Camp Muir at an elevation of 10,000
feet. Such a hut could be constructed from the rock that is on the
ground. The cement necessary for such construction could be packed
nearly to Camp Muir on horses if a short piece of trail was constructed
at the base of Timberline Ridge.
Sanitary conditions should obtain at all of the mountain camps.
At present there is much refuse scattered around and large piles of
manure are taken out of the stables at Longmire Springs and scattered
over the ground. There have been many cases of fever reported among
visitors to the park this summer. I believe that a sewer system will
soon be absolutely necessary, not only at Longmire but at the moun-
tain camps.
I am not repeating the splendid recommendations of Mr. Matthes
regarding the guides. It meets with my approval in every way and is
so much better coming from a man who is entirely free from any
local prejudice. I believe that the guides, who at present are located
on the south side, would welcome such regulation. It would serve
to clear up the situation.
In the matter of the patrol of the park it would seem advisable
to have a company of soldiers stationed there during the tourist sea-
son. On this point Mr. Hall would be the best advised. The Moun-
taineers got a bill through Congress permitting the Secretary of War
to loan a company to the Secretary of the Interior for that purpose,
but I believe they were never detailed.
At the present time tourists are not allowed to pick flowers, yet
stock is permitted to graze in the park. This has caused much ad-
verse comment. It would scarcely seem that the little value of milk
at the camp in Paradise would justify the grazing of cows there.
lie The Mountaineer
THE MOUNTAINEERS, 1911-12
OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS
Prof. Edmond S. Meany, President.............. 4025 10th Ave. N. E.
Dr. He W. Stevens; Vice-president. .....5).......00+.% 1505 East Madison
Chass Mee HMarrer |S 6Cretanys misses c oie ceclorsersi deters 522 Pioneer Building
John A: Best, Jr., Assistant Secretary......2...<...: 30 New York Block
PS eve NieGrecors (Ereasumens..c coco. oe bse eek ee Cobb Building
Miss wWinond “Baileyosistorianinc. i.e son occ cele cee 1608 EK. Union
MissElimlre sy Nettleton iH dito ene rar. srenerercrepereter tna rere, ie 1806 8th Ave. West
(CLEON SETH S MWS eh eee ere ee ee ee eR ee 1227 38th Ave. N.
ESR AT IN CUS Oia nese tae coe sarap eae sas cue Pe Teh ce clicaCetS ae tay tus SE ano Hazel, Wash.
[SICA 1 SYed heat itera oh eg Ue tate tio oRRe iy eae Rt AR era rT eRe ne 414 16th Ave. N.
GharlessAlbentSonies resect e cater aee ree eis elon rete The Chelsea
Dr Hes Bs Einimans ian-grams, giving bulletins of the important evente
of the day. and the afternoon serving of tea in the lounge
observation car—which occasion 1s presided over by one of the
lady travelers. Other features are the scrupulous train clean-
liness, made possible by the vacuum cleaning system: the advan-
tage of long distance telephone connection at stations; the con-
venience of ly brary. Ww riting room, barber shop, bath room,
clothes pressing, mens club room and buffet: and the
comfort of berths that really are longer. higher and
wider than on any other road.
Traveling becomes a ple asure on
this palatial train as it speeds
onward over “the short-
est route to the East.
Leaves
Seattle for
Chicago Daily at 10:15 A. M.
Chicago, Milwaukee
& Puget Sound Ry.
GEO W HIBBARD Geaers! Passenger Agent. Seattle
R M CALKINS. Traffic Manager
Re wes set
(= le Se, *
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
Wountaineers’ Clothing
oe 99
Cravenette 1D UX b a k Waterproof
We call your particular attention
to our extensive line of suitable
outing apparel for women
“Duxbak” Boot Dressing
Waterproof Boots
Yours Py per & “Laft Quality
tor Incorporated ar Fair
New Location After February First
Quality 1117 Second Avenue Prices
“Mountain Camp Fires”
By PROFESSOR EDMOND S. MEANY
@ We announce for publica-
tion in the month of November,
" . : + Ce ae
Mountain Camp Fires,” being
the collected poems of Professor
Edmond S. Meany of the University
of Washington.
@ Bound in wood veneer. With front-
ispiece iby Curtis: -“Pri¢e o)-00 net.
Postage 8c additional.
owman € Hantord (-o:
4 616-620 FIRST AVENUE SEATTLE
by Edmond S.Meany »
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
C : C : Filson | Manufacturer
of Waterproof Khaki, English Gabar-
dine, Hunting Coats, Women’s Outing
Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Blankets, Wool
Batts, etc.
@ All kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for
Outdoor life.
@ References: Every Mountaineer patron.
1011 First Avenue, Seattle
Norman & Bennett's
Every Mountaineer Knows Its Value
a Brown Brothers
722 First Avenue Corner Columbia Seattle
Seattle Tent avd Awning Co.
Manufacturers aud Jobbers—Silk Tents
Made to Order for Mountaineers and
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Printing
and Kngraving
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The Seattle National Bank
Second Avenue and Cherry Street Resources Over $16,000,000.00
© ReEoGEARES DERE CRORS
E. W. \NDREWS, President
J. W. Spancter, Vice-President Medd tag
E. G. Ames, Vice-President E. W. ANDREWS
F. K. Struve, Vice-President E. G. AMES
R. V. ANKENY, Casilier R. V. ANKENY
C.-L. LAMPING, Assistant Cashier
H. C. MacDonatp, Assistant Cashier x
C. L. La Grave, Assistant Cashier DANIEL KELLEHER
W™. S. PEAcHEY, Assistant Cashier F. K. StTRUVE
J. Furts, Chairman
HERMAN CHAPIN
Mountaineer Annual - 1911
Mt. Adams Number
On sale at the office of the Financial Secretary
JOHN A. BEST, Jr., 433 New York Block
Vols. [, L1 and [11 on sale at $1.25-per Set
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
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Publication Committee = =
+ . Lulie Nettleton, Editor ets
A. H. Albertson, Business Manager Tyron Uae
Winona Bailey, Historian Menet
Se ee Helen Gracie — Pe eit s
ats Rings ' Effie Chapman
Hz. A. Fuller
Shy ng
The Mountaineer
Volume Five
Nineteen Hundred Twelve
LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN.
Published by
The Mountaineers
Seattle, Washington
Copyright
1912 <
The Mountaineers
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CONTENTS
Page
Greeting ............... EF Se ee ron eee VOT tiger cen ea ee
Greehin cae in he ees ose Vs ene ee eo
hesiicherm unctions ofa) WMountams Glubie. =.) ee
Wm. Prederte Bade... 9
Wrthleamtan Om ag ee eee Bamond S. Wiican 18)
Mountaineer Outing of 1912 on north side of Mt. Rainier...
Miary RGScnall) 2 ee 14
Itinerary of Outing, of 19127... Charles Ss (Gleason 222-2: 26
The Ascent of Mt. Rainier................ EMO ISU ENG lets ee Seen etree, eo 28
Gace haa UE oe Rese lene ee ee eee ee Bidmondes = Vicany= ses) es 36
A New Route up Mt. Rainier.............. DN OY 0 IAA ee od ag EA, 2, ee 37
INeGh CSP ass: eateries Pees Edmond «Ss Micany ee oe 40
Undescribed Glaciers of Mt. Rainier..Francois Matthes _......0000000-.-.--- 42
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ONIMOTHS
Greetings:
From
John Muir
ann
Enos Mills
Salutation:
wT
Salutation:
ENOS A. MILLS
LONGS PEAK, ESTES PARK 0 fe — I
+ + nh
Baoanoe ctober , tenth, i912
To The Mountaineers:
Scenery is the greatest of natural re-
sources and there could hardly be a more useful activity th
that of arousing interest in it. Nature is ever democratic,
ever sanitary, ever recreative and always cheering. It is
the best of company and in the nature of things there cannot
be a more laudable club than the Mountaineers, or one cf sim-
ilar aims and equally high character. The home region of
the Mountaineers is unexcelled by any other in the world.
Your are to ve congratulated on situation and thanked for
great work already dcne for scenery.
Unfortunately scenery still is regarded as an outcast
and much work is yet to be dene in saving scenery frem
destruction and guarding it until it is appreciated. The out-
doors of yesturday is gone forever and the wilderness is van-
ishing. During the next few years it will be the lot of
mountain clubs to select and save for all the people the
few remaining scenic places and alse to see that all Nat~-
ional Parks and scenic reservations o? the Nation are giv~
en adequate protection and development. Do we not need
a National Park Department or a Scenic Bureau? Scenery
ig one of the great assets of this country and its value is
steadily increasing. Then too, Scenery has a large and
important place in the making of good citizens.
The Mountaineer
Volume Five Seattle, Washington Nineteen Twelve
THE HIGHER FUNCTIONS OF A
MOUNTAIN CLUB*
WitwiaMm Frepertc BapE
Mountaineering as a form of sport is a relatively recent
arrival among the recreational interests of mankind. In vain
one searches the literature of antiquity for evidence that the
ancients were interested in the conquest of mountain heights for
the satisfaction of athletic and aesthetic impulses. When moun-
tain ranges have been successfully traversed in the pursuit of
other ends, an ancient chronicler sometimes allows himself a
momentary exultation, but more because of what has been
escaped, than because of what has been braved.
The earliest record of this kind known to me, made 1259
B. C., more than a thousand years before Hannibal crossed the
Alps, is an inscription on the front of the temple of Rameses II
at Abusimbel, Egypt. It commemorates the arrival at the
Egyptian court of King Hattusar of the Hittites and his
daughter. Together with their retinue they had made the long
journey of a thousand miles from central Asia Minor to Egypt,
crossing the Taurus mountains in winter time. Although they
doubtless selected the easiest passes, it was a notable achieve-
ment, and was felt to be such by the Egyptian monarch, who
three thousand years ago bade his scribe sculpture this simple
tribute on the walls of the royal sanctuary: “What can these
newcomers be like! To make such a journey when there goes
not a messenger to Zahi in these days of flood on the upper
heights in winter. . . . . The embassy came, their lLmbs
being sound, and they were long in stride.”
But instances of this kind, even, which exhibit mountaineer-
ing as a necessity rather than as a diversion, must kave been
rare in antiquity. While mountain fastnesses afforded shelter
in times of war, their loftier summits were by the ancients
believed to be the abodes of gods or spirits who were ready to
*Dr Badé is the head of the Department of Semitic Languages in the
Pacific Theological Seminary at Berkeley. He is editor of the Sierra Club
Bulletin and has climbed mountains both here and abroad.
10 The Mountaineer
resent an invasion of their domain. Such views survived to
quite modern times as in the case of the Matterhorn, and are
still held among the more primitive peoples of the earth. The
above-mentioned Egyptian inscription contains a prayer to the
god Sutekh that he may “dispose to fairness the flood and the
cold upon the heights” for the benefit of the Hittite embassy.
The modern interest in mountaineering manifested itself first
in connection with the awakening spirit of scientific inquiry. The
foremost pioneer in this double enterprise was the French-Swiss
physicist Horace Benedict de Saussure (1740-1799). In 1787 he
chimbed Mont Blane under the guidance of Jacques Balmat,
who had gained the summit for the first time a year earlier.
Slow but substantial progress was made during the next
half-century in laying the foundations for the development of
mountain climbing as an art and as a form of sport. But the
systematic conquest of summits of first-rate difficulty did not
begin until the second half of the nineteenth century. Coincident
with this new phase of alpinism came the organization of
various alpine clubs. First among them was the English Alpine
Club founded in 1857. Its organization was followed by the
Austrian Alpine Club in 1862, the Italian and Swiss Alpine
Clubs in 1863, the German Alpine Club in 1869, and the French
Alpine Club in 1874. North America joined the procession in
1876 with the organization of the Appalachian Mountain Club.
But the Pacific Slope, with its misty camps of mountains
trailing in tumultuously diversified chains from the icefields of
Alaska to the warmth of tropic seas, is destined to be the future
arena of American mountaineering. The Sierra Club of Cali-
fornia, the Mazamas of Oregon, and the Mountaineers of Wash-
ington already have well established organizations and an
enthusistic membership. Upon these clubs has fallen the respon-
sibility of directing alpestrian sentiment and energy on this
coast. It is proper that they should ask themselves whether the
history of alpine sport, brief as it is, may not suggest new lines
of endeavor which have never been fully realized. The plasticity
of our western life, unexploited fields of nature study, uniquely
favorable climatic conditions, and the existence of national
parks big enough for kingdoms in Europe, present advantages
which no alpine club of the Old World has ever enjoyed.
The highest function of a mountain club must always
consist in the encouragement it affords to the noblest and
The Mountaineer La
cleanest of all sports. It accords well with this primary interest
that it should work for the establishment and preservation of
national parks where people may camp unhindered and live to
the full that outdoor life which is so necessary to their highest
physical and intellectual health. Where such parks have already
been established the pecuniary rewards of power development
will for a long time render them subject to invasion by power
grabbers. Only large organizations, created for disinterested
ends and vigilant on behalf of the public, can hope to interpose
an effective check to corporate greed.
It is fitting that the stimulus which the awakened scientific
imagination gave to the art of mountaineering in its infancy
should in these days of its relative maturity lead to the cultiva-
tion of certain scientific interests that can be most fruitfully
pursued amid the free life of the forests and the mountains.
The publication of accurate information regarding the trails,
passes, and topography of a mountain region is certainly one of
the tasks to which a mountain club should address itself.
Next in order comes the study of the silva and flora of our
mountains. The botanical survey of many of our western
mountain regions is still very imperfect. Almost any moun-
taineer with a good eye and a fair knowledge of botany can
make a valuable contribution. When all the species have been
described and classified there remains the even more interesting
task of studying the ecology of mountain plants, their adapta-
tion to their environment and to each other.
Particularly interesting from the point of view of plant
geography are the bryophytes and liverworts that inhabit the
higher altitudes. Some of them at least may prove to be sur-
vivors from past ages of the world’s geological history. Certain
isolated peaks are found to be veritable islands of plants that
live only at certain altitudes, and which, co-incident with the
disappearance of arctic conditions after the ice age, were left
stranded on the mountain tops like sailors after a shipwreck.
Any expert bryologist would be delighted to receive and report
on specimens of mosses secured during an ascent and carefully
labeled as to date, altitude, and place, and the character of the
substratum on which they were found growing. Reports or
descriptions of this nature could be printed from time to time in
the club publications, which would thereby, in time, become
indispensable sources of reference for special investigators.
12 The Mountaineer
When the rarer and more exquisite flowering plants of a
given region and their habitat have become known, a great
service to practical aesthetics and to the enjoyment of future
generations might be rendered, on the one hand by preventing
their ruthless destruction and extinction by the thoughtless,
and on the other by transplanting and spreading them into
regions where they are not now found. It is to be hoped that
the time is approaching when every mountain club will have a
committee, or sub-organization, that shall give particular atten-
tion to the conservation of our wild flowers. The lasting good
effect of activity along such lines would soon become apparent
in our national parks.
What is true of the flora applies in equal measure to the
fauna and avifauna. At a little dinner recently, the writer
heard the distinguished diplomatist and statesman, James
Bryce, express the opinion that children and young people
should be taught to take an intelligent and sympathetic interest
in the lives of our furred and feathered friends of the mountains
and forests; that in this way the natural instincts of childhood
ean be turned to account for the conservation of our rapidly
disappearing wild life.
Recent investigations have shown that certain birds and
mammals of the Pacific Coast are disappearing so fast that
unless something is done at once to check their destruction by
hunters they will become extinct in a very short time. The
mourning dove and the band-tailed pigeon, for instance, are so
reduced in numbers now that they bid fair to follow the pas-
senger pigeon to extinction. A number of California organiza-
tions, including the Sierra Club, have by representatives
organized themselves into a Committee on the Conservation of
Wild Life. Their endeavor will be to secure immediate legisla-
tive action in the most urgent cases. It may properly be regarded
as one of the higher functions of a mountain club to give sup-
port to such movements, and to encourage and commend such
rare philanthropic acts as the recent purchase of Marsh Island
in the Gulf of Mexico, by Mrs. Russell Sage, to be dedicated
as a guarded refuge for the migratory birds of America. This
island had long been the most popular haunt of the southern
market gunner, because shore birds flocked to it by the million
—only to be slaughtered.
There remains to be mentioned the recreational use of
The Mountaineer ile:
alpine regions in winter time. Recent years have witnessed a
remarkable development of winter sports in different parts of
the world, especially in Switzerland. The great possibilities of
this relatively new form of recreation were forcibly brought to
the writer’s attention two years ago during a midwinter sojourn
in the Alps. Thousands upon thousands of tourists were com-
ing from every part of Europe to engage in the sports and to
enjoy the scenery of the mountains in winter. The most fre-
yuented resorts were situated at altitudes ranging from five to
seven thousand feet. During January skee-parties made ascents
to altitudes of ten thousand feet and over.
Anyone who has observed this trend of outdoor recreation
will agree that the winter use of national parks will in the near
future come to reinforce the summer use, as surely as morning
succeeds night. Snow-shoeing, skeeing, tobogganing, skating,
and mountain climbing will claim their enthusiastic devotees.
From the sea-level Californian among his ever-blooming roses to
the hardy Canadian of the frosty north, the men and women of
our Pacific Coast are beginning to hear the call of the snowy
pine, of the frozen lake, and of those glistening summits which
have a new charm under wintry skies. It will prove a noble
function of our mountain clubs to stimulate and foster this love
of the heights when the north wind roars.
LITTLE TAHOMA
O crag-crowned peak, I hail thee once again!
Once more thy lofty crest breeds fresh surprise.
At rest in hanging garden, flower-warmed glen,
O’er waves of ice I lift my wistful eyes
And hail thee; O, I hail thee once again!
O jagged spire, I hail thee once again!
’Twas here thy Mother Chaos gave thee birth
To guard thy sire from vulgar feet of men,
And yet, I brave long silent lanes of earth
To hail thee; O, I hail thee once again!
Edmond S. Meany
14 The Mountaineer
THE MOUNTAINEERS’ OUTING ON THE NORTH
SIDE OF MT. RAINIER*
Mary PascHALL
Briefly, the plan for the 1912 outing of the Mountaineers:
was to skirt the highest mountain of the State along its eastern
and northern slopes, to explore there its least-known parks and
glaciers, and finally to scale the great peak itself. All this
sounded most alluring to the fifty-five club members, under the
leadership of William H. Gorham, who left Seattle on the morn-
ing of July 20 to spend three long weeks where the breezes blow
fresh from the snows of Rainier (Tacoma).
With the usual joyous good-bys at the depot the trip began,
our special car continuing to hum like a bee tree all the way to
Lavender, where the dunnage was put off with us to await the
coming of the pack train. Through a cloud of dust, at the turn
of the road a half hour later, came the rhythmic beat of many
hoofs mingled with the clamor of neck bells, chiming to our
ears a very paean of delight. Presently they appeared shaking
their manes, and a cheer went up to greet as valiant a band of
little horses as ever bore pack saddles. In front rode Anderson,
powerful even in repose, while “Brud,” on his beautiful bay,
dashed here and there meeting old friends. Four other packers,
rounding up the stragglers, gave promise of what might be
expected of them on the day to come, when twenty burden
bearers would struggle up the fearful rock stairway of the
Frying Pan, leaving our littlest wobbly eolt beside the ford.
But we were all unconscious of dangers ahead, it was enough
for us to be going back to the hills.
Up the Granite Canyon trail, camp was pitched near a
spring at the headwaters of Tanenum Creek, and every member
of the party straightway began looking for a room in the only
inn that is never full. Half the joy of the march is in the
magnificence of these bedrooms roofed by the sky. At Summer-
land it was possible to reach out of one’s sleeping bag and pluck
*Outing Committee: Wm. H. Gorham, A. H. Brackett, Fred Q. Gorton.
Plate ile
MOUNTAINEERS’
CAMP IN
SUMMERLAND
Chas. 8. Gleason
show-
Elevation 6800 feet. View looking west from ‘‘men’s quarters,’
ing Little Tahoma and Mt. Rainier, on the sky line; the Frying Pan
glacier flowing from Little Tahoma north and joining the White glacier,
in the middle distance; the nose of the middle fork of the Frying
Pan and the site of Mountaineers’ Camp No. 7, July 27-30, 1912, in the
foreground.
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The Mountaineer ily
the flowers; on the heights of Spokwush meadows, one could
almost reach the stars.
Following the backbone of the Manastash ridge next day,
night brought us to Quartz Creek, where the first Sunday
service was held. The second was in Summerland, the last in
Grand Park, each temple of worship more beautiful than the
last.
The main highways among the mountains, pursued alike
by animals, railroads, and mountaineers, are the water courses.
Most of the trails, indeed, have taken their names from their
river companions. Winding down the southern slope of the
ridge through the mottled trunks of the yellow pines, one
instinctively looks for the Naches, and dropping into the valley,
emerges suddenly from the timber into an open meadow knee-
deep in flowers. Beyond runs the river, clear-eyed, singing its
way toward the sea; from rift to cataract, from pool to dream-
ing pool, it flows among the rock-ribbed hills. Where is there
a spot where larkspur nods a deeper blue or berries hang
heavier? The ford that July morning witnessed the approach
of both divisions of the army at once, the horses emerging sud-
denly from the copse, rushed eagerly to quench their thirst,
then splashed on not to lose their places in the brave calvacade ;
while slowly winding along the rocky palisade above moved
“the line,” an iridescent ribbon of color.
One can not think of a summer’s outing without recalling
the camp-fires, yet how is it possible to picture the spirits that
enter into the fire-lit circle? The lost art of story telling here
returns and brings with it original verse and song to fill to
overflowing this breezy chapter of life’s out-door holiday. Sit-
ting on the ground at the Forks of the Trail, the gathering
place of forgotten tribes of Indians, we listened to their simple
stories of earth and sky; heard again their footfalls by the
river; and watched the fires that glowed and died before our
own was kindled. Through the closing songs of those star-lit
nights ran the old, old melody of comradeship, filling all the
dark till the very trees clapped their hands and the surrounding
hills took up the strain and broke forth into singing.
The Crowe Creek trail, leaving the Naches, rises steadily
for nearly three thousand feet. Through the silvery trees of
the ghost forest the majestic Fifes Peaks can be seen for many
miles. Near Echo Lake we were joined by the Caesar party of
The Mountaineer
pod
19/6)
Tacoma, and continuing through Bear Gap found Mr. Brackett
and Mr. Corey with thirty-five hundred pounds of provisions.
Filing through the rocky portals of an unnamed pass, the party
made a rapid descent toward the east fork of the White, rum-
bling mightily far below. There is an exhilaration of motion in
these glacial rivers always fascinating and we were glad to be
eamped near by for a day, while our “trail gang” slashed a
way by which the pack train might reach Summerland.
On the morning of the eighth day hope ran high. The
whistle blew the signal to start and “the line” filed away on
the Glacier Basin trail to the junction of the White and the
Frying Pan rivers. Crossing the turbid stream, the ascent be-
gan up a rugged valley, closed on one side by a sheer wall of
rock, on the other by close-set trees, while far above and beyond
loomed our mountain, dazzling, wonderful. The Frying Pan
River, scarcely started in its headlong race, chanted still the
songs learned in subterranean galleries under the blue ice of
the glacier. Up and higher up toiled the little company. It
was hard to hold us back now with the breath of the hills in
our nostrils and the hill flowers pressing against our feet. After
a final scramble up the last hundred yards, the miniature park
itself burst into view; its jutting headlands guarded by turrets
of living green were spread for us with carpets of crimson
and violet embroidered in gold. We were home at last in
Summerland. Here Carr made plans to kill for us the fatted
ealf, and here also came the first try-out on snow, when the
che-cha-kos, standing at the top of a dizzy white slope and told
to coast down, balanced first on one foot and then on the other
in an agony of indecision whether to try it standing or sitting.
They made at last a bold effort, one and all, started scientifical-
ly as instructed, using the alpenstock as a rudder and a brake,
but missing the trick somewhere, capsized desperately and
reached the foot of the declivity rolling like animated boulders
from an avalanche.
Among the most striking impressions of these altitudes are
the sky-line pictures. Sometimes it is a silhouette pack train
or a nodding company of plumed anemones, and occasionally a
band of mountain goats drifting upward along the horizon of
a ridge. On the tenth day out while we were halted for lunch
on the margin of a snow field, there appeared across the deep
valley a solitary messenger. It proved to be the man detailed
Plate IV.
RURAL .FREE On July 29, 1912. the Mountaineers were met on the snow
DELIVERY IN fields near Urania glacier by Park-ranger Longmire with
THE MOUNTAINS mail from Paradise Park.
a
S. V. Bryant
hy the park superintendent to meet the party and bring them
word from the great outside world. With breathless interest
his progress was watched as step by step he moved down the
slope. “How beautiful on the mountains are the feet of him
that bringeth good tidings.” Could it have been the altitude
that set our hearts to beating as the precious mail bag was
unstrapped and one by one we heard our names as one hears
inadream? Standing upon the snow, each with his news from
home, there was no spoken word, the silence wrapped us as a
cloak, those enhungered were satisfied.
Breaking camp the following morning, the opportunity
came for a brief study of the great White glacier, the longest
in the United States. The sweep of its tremendous body and
its grip on the mountain made one think of some prehistoric
reptile. Of especial interest were the balanced rocks and the
ice needles, scarcely less striking than the seraes on the Win-
throp.
Arriving at Glacier Basin a most unique try-out was made
to Camp Curtis under the leadership of Professor Flett. We
had volunteered to carry fagots above timber line, in order
to have a commissary fire when on the main climb; some of us
were inwardly sorry of our bargains before we were through.
In fact, those sticks had a fashion of increasing in weight every
few hundred yards. But who can forget the glimpse of heaven
20 The Mountaineer
and earth from that eerie camping spot above the clouds or
the delight of the descent into Glacier Basin across the face
of Inter-Glacier ?
Northeast of St. Elmo Pass and directly opposite the point
where the glacier changes suddenly to a river and goes roaring
and foaming down the mountain, stands a small pyramid of
irregular rocks. It was at this spot that the seeds of the
cherished edelweiss of the beautiful Bavarian Alps were planted
with appropriate ceremony on August first by the women of
the 1912 outing of the Mountaineers. In the Mountaineer Bul-
letin of April of this year will be found a copy of the letter
from Mr. Anton Lang, the donor, together with a short sketch
of the traditional significance of this courageous little flower
of the Alps, that dares to bloom upon the mountain tops. In
improvised costume, the spirit of Bavaria in the name of her
country presented the seeds which were graciously accepted
by the spirit of the mountains of America, after which they
were gently laid away in the brown mould, awaiting the time
when the sun in heaven should wake them into life. There is
a charm, an atmosphere, that surrounds all planting, from the
grain of wheat to the oak tree; here was the added dignity of
a mountain clothed in perpetual snow, standing guard over a
treasure almost intangible yet associated with all that makes
life significant. The few spoken words and the simple verses
on the edelweiss, expressed the hope of a people whose free-
dom rings indeed from every mountainside!
On August first, after hearing the reports of the Major
Ingraham party and of the four scouts sent on the preliminary
climb, to the effect that snow conditions were extremely bad
on the north side of the mountain this year, the main party
took the trail for Grand Park by way of Lodii basin. The
ascent of the mountain was made by nine men.
Judged by almost any standard one can not be disappointed
in Grand Park. A tableland six thousand feet high, it contains
more than one thousand acres where the clean winds sweep
across the levels and play forever in and out among the perfect
groups of alpine firs. To look at sunset across this immense
flowery plain at Mt. Rainier is to know it as a new peak and
rejoice in the acquaintance. He is fortunate indeed who has
thus seen it crowned in the gigantie cloud hood that promises
storm. We fully realized the warning that was given us on
VI.
Plate
Plate V.
‘SIGL ‘F
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The Mountaineer 23
leaving the park, when three days later the hood became an
umbrella and we were just beneath the drip.
Down the Winthrop and up Van Horn Creek to Spokwush
meadows, one is surrounded with vistas. Toward the west
from the divide across the torrent-scarred ridges, appears the
snowy line of the Olympics, a mile below stands the gray arch
of the great stone bridge, while to the south of the valley rise
the rich red turrets of the ruined castles of the Sluiskins.
Before the blazing campfire, one of our geologists interpreted
part of the story from the great stone book that for many days
had been spread before our eyes on the rocks and glaciers of
this typical voleanic peak, a story as old as the hills indeed,
yet ever new and full of interest. Morning came in one saffron
sheet, unrolled beyond seven ranges of foothills. Reluctantly
we packed and started to breakfast. The women had been
asked to bring down their dunnage and there immediately en-
sued a wild scramble as the bags were released on the heights
above commissary. Rolling, bouncing, hurtling downward,
they made straight for the fire or the stream. Shouts rent
the air at every fresh catapault from above and cheer upon
cheer for the hero who dared to stop the missile.
From Chenuis Mountain to Spray Park is not far hori-
zontally, but we alas, measured the distance up and down, so
there was but time for an afternoon’s acquaintance, a last look
at our mountain of mountains, a last rest on our beloved
heather, a last race across the snow, and we were off down the
trail toward the Carbon river.
The very heavens wept at our departure, and such a down-
pour! Yet despite the soaking, it was a right jolly company
that gathered that night in Ranger O’Farrel’s hospitable cabin
to celebrate Christmas in August, with a real illuminated tree
and a most real Santa Claus in a fur coat to distribute the gifts.
One more campfire, ending with a “hob-nail dance” in the
deserted mining town of Hillsboro, a coveted opportunity to
study the coal mine now being actively operated at Fairfax,
and we boarded the special car. This time the hill mud clung
visibly to our shabby and beloved boots and with it the joy of
all that we found, in those wonderful playgrounds among the
eternal peaks.
Plate VII.
THE MOUNTAINEERS
SUMMER OUTING
i942
JULY 20 TO AUG 10 INCLUSIVE
SCALE
! 2 3 + Ss 6 7
—————————S———
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eget a eye oe at ay se a
ie ae RAT ith ea cie Sika
: (nse ie he
mY 2 inn
“i
The Mountaineer al
taken during the ascent, but they do scant justice to the won-
derful snow and ice formations, dreadful in their fantastic
beauty.
The members of our party agreed that each man should in
turn break or chop steps as necessary, which plan was adhered
to throughout the climb, the present worker falling in at the
rear when his “trick” was ended, the second in line succeeding
him. No special precautions were taken, each person seeming
capable of caring for himself. The mascot of the journey was
an emergency bandage, which was not used. One regulation
army canteen of oatmeal water supplied two men. This mix-
ture proved much superior to either tea or undiluted water.
Our route to a point within one thousand feet of the crater
was identical with that of the scouts who had been sent from
the main body two days previously, with the object of ascer-
taining the most feasible way to conduct a large number to
the top. On these dangerous climbs nothing is left to chance.
At an elevation of more than thirteen thousand feet they had
encountered a seemingly impassable barrier, a deep crevasse.
Professor Flett, whose wide experience on the mountain emi-
nently fitted him to be our pilot, now took the lead and non-
chalantly “hit” the ugliest looking trail the writer has ever
gazed upon.
The little band seattering out at intervals in uncertain and
wobbly effort to follow leader, the writer was left alone for a
few minutes beneath a peculiarly formed impending mass of
snow and ice, which imagination easily likened to the jaws of
some vast pre-historic monster suddenly frozen by tremendous
climatic changes, even in the act of devouring its prey. Stand-
ing there sheltered from the wind, no living being in view, the
earth obscured by floating mists, there was gained for the first
time an appreciation of that “eternal silence of the hills.” In
an effort to understand the ambition which drives us into the
very jaws of death after such fruitless victories, thought turned
upon the glory of man’s achievement in the past, the majesty
of his probable destiny. For out of that eternal silence has he
come, climbing slowly, painfully, through the countless eons
which have vanished in a trackless past. Experience born of
the bitterness of misfortune and defeat, his only guide, has
taught him how to conquer every obstacle which ignorance and
superstititon have thrown across his path, yes, even Death
32 The Mountaineer
itself. So the answer came from that restless spirit of conquest,
which urges us ever onward to the accomplishment of our
destiny, to the ever narrowing confines of the land of the un-
known.
A shout of triumph echoes through the mountain fastness,
a passage has been discovered. True the way is dangerous, but
it leads to success and what else matters? One portion con-
formed much too closely in general contour to the inverted let-
ter V and for a while we experienced a most unseemly envy of -
the fly and his various appliances designed for sticking fast.
Moreover, to give additional comfort, nature had flanked us
with two beautiful and very commodious crevasses, the whole
furnishing a short and slippery path to that country of golden
harps and milk and honey; the praises of which are so often
sung by those who have never crossed its confines, and into
the realms of which we are so eager that the other fellow should
enter. A snow bridge crossed, we approached the upper levels
of that graceful, dazzling sweep known as the saddle, guarded
by Columbia Crest and Russell Peak. Here the slopes were less
precipitous and the snow softer, due probably to recent falls.
The hour hand (also the inner man) now indicated one o’clock
and we began anxiously to peer about for the celebrated steam
caves promised us by Professor Flett. I fail to recall the pre-
vailing idea entertained of those apartments, but our doughty
leader had hinted of hissing steam and sulphurous gases, so
we expected a large and commanding archway bearing the
celebrated legend; mayhap a little devil to receive wraps and
a hot lunch seasoned a la Mexicano.
Sad disillusionment! We scrambled, or fell, through a
jagged opening in the ice erust into a spooky cavern most
comfortably warm and so moist with the condensing steam that
our clothes were soon bedewed with glistening drops. Sure
enough the steam was escaping in jets through various open-
ings among the rocks and we had the unique and most enjoy-
able experience of scraping the snow with tin cups from the
roof of our house, placing in the icy mixture a cube of con-
densed bouillon, putting the utensil on the floor over a jet of
escaping steam, and in five minutes detecting with eager nostril
the delicious aroma of boiling beef tea. And this at an eleva-
tion of fourteen thousand feet, under the eternal snows of Mt.
Rainier. While perched upon a warm rock munching a most
Plate XI.
CROSSING Showing the Mountaineers returning from Camp Curtis, elevation
INTERGLACIER 10,000 feet, to camp in Glacier basin, July 31, 1912. Inter-
H. V. Abel glacier is a hanging glacier between the Winthrop and the
oe, 3 White, but not connected with either, nor with the great ice
cap on the summit.
a, higher t yey Vl ws den roel 8) Kye ba) a ‘
oh Oi ot ed oe sae Pare as nae Te A a) ae ee ik Nay
Sa Cobia ethan amt e gps Oi mal Beet be
bbe PRIOR ie? itt irre: Bh et he pad Sate ae cee,
wee POEENGU: 7 a, Pipe | iciaiips WAY 20th tN Re
ae o on ui ae eat wey fgihs ee ;
a ~*~ calf
milbe ey AAS wath: Teed.
panes i Bas
ei Pes
eri Pm 08) an.
aren aba Te",
*¥)
The Mountaineer 35
delicious lunch, we idly wondered how long it would take to
complete the process of parboiling, should a miniature ava-
lanche suddenly deposit us in some remote corner of the cavern.
The presence of steam caves is easily explained. The snow
falling on warm surfaces at higher altitudes is reduced to water,
runs through the still hot rocks of the extinct volcano, and
escapes as steam at various points below the snow crust, which
is melted in the immediate vicinity of the jets, forming a cave.
Luncheon over, we scrambled again to the upper world and
continued our arduous journey, soon encountering a wide mar-
gin of small loose rocks extending downward from the rim of
the crater, possibly two hundred feet, and swept entirely clear
of snow. This, as viewed from Camp Curtis, appears a faint,
dark band around the summit. The party reached the crater
at three-fifteen o’clock and there across the comparatively level
area of the smaller crater was our goal, the semi-spherical,
snow-clad Columbia Crest. A few minutes and we stood upon
the pinnacle of Rainier’s icy mantle. ae
Plate XX1.
“WINTHROP GLACIER. Showing in the distance the Winthrop glacier. Willis Wall,
FROM THE TRAIL TO and the head of the Carbon glacier. The Winthrop river
‘ z me and its canyon, 3000 feet below this point of view, is in the
GRAND PARK foreground. Aug. 3, 1912.
Copyright, A. H. Denman
OLYMPUS FROM
THE NORTH—
Copyright by
Earl Rice
Plate XXII.
climbed, being the side opposite
6HODO
Showing a side rarely if ever
the route of the 1913 Outing. Taken from an elevation of
feet and at a distance of about two miles looking across the
largest glacier flowing from Olympus. The edges of this un-
named glacier shows in the lower right foreground. Aug. 138, 1912.
Plate XXIII.
THE QUEETS Looking down the valley of the Queets river toward the Pacifie
VALLEY— ocean, being one of many such Olympic vistas. This is taken
from the proposed site of Permanent Camp, Outing 1913, and is
nN ‘ oP °
Chas. Albertson located among the head waters in the park country.
Plate XXIV.
PN
Leger ra tars enh alaatewes ~~
PAN neler naan cs
THE QUICK AND THE DEAD P. M. MeGregor
Plate XXV.
will be maa
»
>
191é
- OLYMPUS FROM
PASS
Albertson
BLIZZARD
——
—
wah.
MT
Chas.
Plate XXVII.
cc
BERGSCHRUND— This was of great height and formed the chief obstacle to the
At Head of ascent. The crossing was made by following along the lower
Winthrop-White Glaciers lip to and up a dangerous ice bridge to the cornice above. This
elevation is fully 14,000 feet and is located just below the saddle
H. VY. Abel between Columbia Crest and Liberty Cap.
Plate XXVI.
XEROPHYLLUM TENAX
Indian Basket grass, or Hue
Mabel Furry and used by tl
grass, found in high altitude
1e Indians in their bs as BG try
no
~*~ +
7 daee eS 2 4 >,
: vr aie : ‘
oe ee
ui
>
’ »
-— ae -) -
-
ay
The Mountaineer 93
NOTES OF OTHER CLUBS
EDITED BY A. H. ALBERTSON
The following is quoted from the 1912 Mazama:
Mazama “The annual encampment at Mount Hood from
July 15 to 29, 1912, is to be included among the
best of the 19 annual outings conducted by the Mazamas since the
organization of the club. The camp was located a short distance from
Cloud Cap Inn, in a grove of sub-alpine trees and convenient to the
mountain. The largest number of people in camp at one time was 125.
The official climb on July 22 was participated in by 65 persons, who
were joined on the summit by a large party of climbers from the south
side of the mountain, conducted by the Portland Y. M. C. A. * * *
An edition devoted to the Mount Hood outing and the St. Helens outing
of 1908 is in course of preparation. It is expected that this number will
be issued early in 1913.”
. The club planned for this year a program of tramp-
Rocky Mountain ing which covered the last fourteen days in August.
Climbers One hundred men and women, including residents
of sixteen states of the Union, took part. The trip was leisurely, not
more than thirteen miles being covered in one day, the dunnage being
carried by wagons. Two main trips were taken. The first was from
Camp Arapahoe, on the side of the Arapahoe Peak, to Arapahoe glacier.
This took two days. During this trip the corner-stone of the Rocky
Mountain Climbers’ cottage was laid. This cottage is the first in a
chain to be erected throughout the mountains of Colorado.
The second main trip was from Arapahoe Peak to the top of Bald
Mountain by way of Silver Lake and Camp Albion. After climbing Mt.
Audubon the party went to Ward by way of Stapp’s Lake and Beaver
Park. Long’s Peak was also climbed.
The Rocky Mountain Climbers have been in existence six years and
have about two hundred members. It is incorporated. The officers are
E. G. Fine, president; John R. Bell, vice-president; W. H. Laney,
treasurer.
This club was organized in Denver in April, 1912.
The regular schedule of local walks was carried
out during the summer ending with their first
annual outing on Mt. Evans. The outings of this club are similar to
those of The Mountaineers. Mr. James Grafton Rogers is president and
Miss Mary S. Sabin is secretary. The Mountaineer welcomes this new
club of the out-of-doors.
Colorado
Mountain Club
94 The Mountaineer
The main camp of the annual summer outing of
the Alpine Club of Canada was pitched at Ver-
milion Pass, 5300 feet above sea level. The camp
lasted from July 31st to August 11th.
Vermilion Pass is about seventeen miles west of Banff by railroad
and eight miles from Castle Station—seven being by road and one by
trail. There were about one hundred in camp on August Ist, all told
there were one hundred and sixty-eight. The camp-fires and Sunday
services are very similar in general character to those held by The
Mountaineers.
The Alpine Club
of Canada
It will be remembered that the Alpine Club of Canada requires its.
applicants for membership to climb some mountain before being ac-
cepted as members. This year there were fifty-three who qualified for
membership. Applicants having accomplished the required climbs are
referred to as being graduated, and the climbs are spoken of as being
graduating climbs. These graduating climbs are very much like the
“try-out” trips of The Mountaineers and constitute one of the main
activities of the club at their main camp. In addition to these gradu-
ating climbs a number of other trips were carried out. A trout fishing
expedition was made to upper Vermilion Lake. The ascent of Mt.
Whymper was made and a two-days’ trip to Prospectors’ Valley; a
climb of Ten Peaks Valley and a three-days’ climb to Mt. Ball.
The Alpine Club holds its annual meeting and election of officers
during the progress of its annual outing.
Among the guests were four members of the Appalachian Club.
: The objects of the American Alpine Club are pri-
The American marily scientific. No definite walks or outings are
Alpine Club arranged. The by-laws state that the main pur-
pose is the study of the high mountains of America and the publication
of monographs of these mountains through the medium of their own
publication, Alpina Americana. Monographs of a number of mountain
subjects have already been published. The membership is composed
largely of scientific men and experienced mountain climbers. The club
has no definite headquarters, meetings being held in convenient cities
on the Atlantic Coast.
The Sierra Club held its summer outing of 1912
Sierra Club in the Kern River Canyon, entering the Sierras
Outing, 1912 from Springville and going eastward to Lloyd
meadows through a beautiful grove of sequoias; thence in a northerly
direction through the magnificent Kern Canyon to the junction of the
Kern and Kern-Kaweah rivers. From the Kern Canyon a détour was
made into Long Meadow, where the streams abound in golden trout.
The Sierra Club as is their custom stocked several lakes and streams
with small trout. From the junction of the Kern and Kern-Kaweah the
party proceeded southeast to Crabtree Meadows, from which Mt. Whit-
ney was climbed and then on over Army Pass (12,000 ft.) to Cotton-
wood Lakes and on down Cottonwood Creek to the desert near Owens
Lake.
The Mountaineer 95
The main party covered a distance of about one hundred and fifty
miles, although many smaller divisions made additional side trips.
The party numbered two hundred people and besides Californians in-
cluded representatives from Canada, Oregon, Washington, the Atlantic
Coast, Honolulu and Europe. Ascents by various members of the party
included the south Kaweah (13,816 ft.), Sawtooth Mt. (12,300 ft.), Mile-
stone Mt. (13,643 ft.), Mt. Tyndall (14,025 ft.), Mt. Guyot (12,300 ft.),
Mt. Williamson (14,384 ft.), Mt. Whitney (14,502 ft.).
96 The Mountaineer
SCIENTIFIC NOTES
Eprrep BY GERTRUDE STREATOR
For several years various members of the Mountaineers have col-
lected insects for Prof. O. B. Johnson, Professor Emeritus of the Uni-
versity of Washington. This is splendid work for the club members
and Professor Johnson's appreciation is expressed in the following
letter received this fall:
“To the members of The Mountaineers.
I am writing this to express my thanks for the kindly interest
taken by the members of your club in collecting insects to be sent
to me. These arrived in due time in good condition. Many of them
were especially desirable and two or three were new. Coleoptimists
are fortunate in having the services of the Mountaineers, as they reach
unusual altitudes, and many of the problems of distribution, etc., have
to do with what is called the glacial edge or ice pack, those ravellings
of the old glacial era that are left on the perpetually snow-capped
mountains. Few of us “beetle enthusiasts” have facilities for going
to those places that your club is organized for. So I repeat it is fortu-
nate to have such an ally.
The group of beetles that is just now holding interest is the Coenus
Nebria. Of the twenty-seven species found in the United States, fifteen
of them occur in Washington and five of them were described as new
in the last five years. There are undoubtedly others yet to be “dis-
covered” in the peaks to the north of Glacier Peak and the mountains
north of Spokane.
One of our most exciting surprises came in the collection made on
the Glacier Peak trip. Three examples of Pterostichus were decidedly
new and so were submitted to Dr. Van Dyke of San Francisco, who
says in part, ‘The species of Pterostichus sent is one that has long
been misunderstood and has many pages written about what it was and
what it was not. I was about convinced that it was a new species
when suddenly a glimmer of light appeared. As a result I succeeded
in definitely placing it. In other words your specimens are the long-
lost, the long-overlooked, unrecognized and misunderstood Pterostichus
brunnens. It will now be restored to the check list.
This is but a hint of what may be done for this one branch of
science. I had expected to send a list of species collected on the three
trips, 1910, 1911, 1912, but it just strikes me that a bare list of the
names will not appeal very strongly to a novice, and so I have resolved
The Mountaineer 97
to prepare examples of each of the species captured for the purpose of
illustrating the label. They are in a glass-covered box and can easily
be referred to ‘at home’ with no danger of breakage in passing around.
Cordially,
O. B. JOHNSON.”
The collection of fifty specimens was delivered to the club and is
in the custody of the Historian, where it may be studied by anyone
interested. The collection is a very valuable addition to the club prop-
erties and it is hoped will form a nucleus for a permanent exhibit of
scientific interest.
Rainiera stricta, a plant belonging to the composite family, was
found on the 1912 outing growing in abundance all the way from the
Manastash ridge to the slopes of Mt. Rainier. This plant bearing the
name of the great mountain had previously been reported only from
the mountain itself or the region directly south.
Mr. E. B. Webster, editor of the Olympic Leader, who was a
member of the Mountaineers’ first annual outing, has the honor of
adding one to the list cf plants known to grow in the state of Wash-
ington. The new plant belongs to the composite family and has been
named Senecio Websteri by Mr. C. V. Piper, government agrostologist
and author of “The flora of Washington.” WINONA BAILEY.
Ss
Lake Sammamish is situated several miles east of Seattle. The
submerged forest in this lake has an area of about fifty acres and it is
near the west side, not far from the head of the lake. The broken-off
tops of the trees are awash at summer level of the lake. This fall the
lake has been lower than ever, the tops being about four feet out of
water. Most of the trees stand nearly vertical, a few are considerably
inclined. The size of trunks at water surface ranges from about eight
inches to three and a half feet in diameter. The trees are of the usual
forest variety of this region.
Forty-eight years ago, Mr. C. B. Bagley of Seattle first saw these
trees while on a canoe trip. He found it troublesome to paddle
through them. At that time the broken tops extended high above the
water for varying lengths. His impression was that they then had been
submerged perhaps forty or fifty years.
Apparently this phenomenon is not the result of a slide from any
adjacent high steep ground. The nearest shore land is rather flat and
gently sloping for a good distance from the lake. It is possible, how-
ever, that a precipitous side of a deep channel gave way, causing a
slide. A sudden damming of the lake is improbable, as the formation
at outlet does not indicate it, nor do the shores of the rest of the lake.
A subsidence of the ground seems to be a probable cause, but what
caused the subsidence is not apparent. R. H. McKEE.
98 The Mountaineer
THE MOUNTAINEERS
DIRECTORS FOR THE YEAR 1912-13
Prof. Edmond S. Meany, President.................. 4025 10th Avenue Northeast
George E. Wright, Vice-president........_............... 1227 38th Avenue North
Chas Ms Warren’ |S CCLCLARY 22c ccsccse oes esos ete one 508 Pioneer Building
John A. Best, Assistant Secretary..............2.00.0000..222-- 433 New York Block
epee MI GICOC sw ERCA SUNG: rea see eens oO ee ee 606 Minor Avenue
Gertruder Streator Historians: ee es 1726 138th Avenue
ulier Nettleton; ABiGitort sot 58s. 2 eee Se es 1806 8th Avenue West
Prob. Be netic =e 107 North Tacoma Avenue, Tacoma, Wash.
Charles#Albertsomes set ee ee oe ee 1616 Nob Hill Avenue
FUOy Ein desecrate ee EE ee See 1522 6th Avenue
(Dyed s Rlspel ebb choak:) aes kee eee 2605 Baker Avenue, Everett, Wash.
Tea APON GIS ONE c.2 se eke eet Sue ee ee 1616 Nob Hill Avenue
MONTHLY MEETINGS OF 1912
January 19, 1912. Prof. J. B. Flett of Tacoma told the fascinating
story of his great trip last summer in which he traveled completely
around the mountain. The lecture was illustrated by numerous lantern
slides.
February 16, 1912. Mr. Bert P. Kirkland, Supervisor of the Forest
Service of the United States Department of Agriculture, addressed the
club upon “The Forest Service.”
March 15, 1912. Mr. W. A. Ross, Assistant General Passenger
Agent of the Great Northern Railway, gave an interesting illustrated
lecture on the wonderful beauties of Glacier National Park, Montana.
April 19, 1912. Captain James V. Martin, who after nine years’ ex-
perience upon the sea abandoned the limited oceans of water for the
unlimited oceans of air, gave an illustrated lecture entitled the “History
and Progress of Aviation.” His comparison of the depth, density, and
motion of the water with that of the air served as a basis for his later
comparison of seafaring boats with air-ships.
May 17, 1912. Slides of the local walks. Messrs. Gleason and
Cruse furnished one of the most enjoyable entertainments of the year
when they so kindly exhibited the slides prepared from the pictures
taken on the local walks. It was indeed a fulfillment of the old wish:
“O wad some Pow’r the giftie gie us
To see oursels as others see us!”
No monthly meetings during June, July and August.
September 20, 1912. Nominations for the Board of Directors.
The Mountaineer 99
October 18, 1912. Slides of the Mount Rainier outing of 1912.
Mr. W. H. Gorham gave a pictorial narration of the trip to Mount
Rainier. The club made its approach from the east; crossed the Cas-
cade divide; encircled the mountain on the north; visited almost un-
known regions whose scenic beauties are unsurpassed; then dropped
down on the northwest side of the mountain, and left the wonderful
national park by way of Fairfax. The pictures were of unusual in-
terest, portraying not only the grandeur of the great mountain, the
exquisite Alpine flora, but also many incidents of work, play, camp-
fire and trail.
November 15, 1912. Miss Lulie Nettleton entertained the Moun-
taineers with a graphic description of her trip with the Sierra Club,
California. Among the many interesting things she told were:
I. The aim of the Sierra Club.
1. Protection of natural parks, etc.
2. Building lodges on the mountains.
3. Club rooms, etc.
Il. The summer outing 1912.
1. Equipment.
2. Camps—their management.
3. Knapsack trips.
4. Mountains ascended: Mt. Whitney, Sawtooth Mt., the
South Kaweah and Mt. Langley.
III. Return trip.
Ascent of Mt. Shasta.
GERTRUDE STREATOR
THE EVERETT MOUNTAINEERS
The organization of The Everett Mountaineers by a few en-
thusiasts, not quite three years ago, was a good deal of an experiment.
At that time there was no provision in the by-laws of The Moun-
taineers for local auxiliaries, and our organization was merely a tenta-
tive one.
The membership in Everett under these rather unsatisfactory con-
ditions, grew steadily, local walks were held regularly, and several
entertainments given, until June, 1911, when the new constitution and
by-laws were passed, in which provision was made for the organiza-
tion of local auxiliaries. Since that time we have made good progress
and now have sixty members in good standing. During the past three
months there has been more interest shown in the work of the club
than ever before.
In the past years we have given four stereopticon lectures with
mountain views, the last three of them being in the auditorium of the
High School, with free admission to the public, three or four hundred
people attending each of them. We consider this good educational
work. We have also held two social evenings with programs in the
houses of members.
100 The Mountaineer
The local walks held during the year have numbered twenty-two,
five of these being joint walks with the Seattle club. The average
attendance on these walks has been twenty, with a maximum of forty-
nine and a minimum of five. No walk has ever been given up since
the organization of the club.
A very successful, as well as an extremely strenuous, short outing,
in which the ascent of West Index was successfully made, was con-
ducted May 31st to June 2nd. In this we were joined by several mem-
bers of the Seattle club. A full account of the trip by Mr. Charles
S. Gleason was printed in the June Bulletin.
The Everett Mountaineers have been pleased to see their example
followed by the formation of a strong. local auxiliary in Tacoma, and
look forward to still further extension of the work in the State.
H. B. HINMAN, Chairman.
SECRETARY’S REPORT
The Mountaineers have found the past year a very busy one. Much
more work has been done than heretofore in looking up the possi-
bilities and advantages of different districts for summer outings.
This has been done not only by personal investigation, but by a great
deal of correspondence. Besides this work and in addition to the many
less important activities of the club, was the extensive work in con-
nection with the proposed national park in the Olympics. This re-
quired a great deal of correspondence. We enlisted the support of
individuals and organizations all over the country and though Con-
gress did not take any action, our work was not wasted for the ques-
tion will certainly come up sooner or later. Replies received to our
letters, show a wide and favorable interest in the bill introduced by
Congressman Humphrey. The club is chiefly concerned in preventing
any hasty action. While we believe mining rights should be granted,
they should be absolutely legitimate and not merely a cloak for the
acquisition of timber and water-power sites. The matter of bound-
aries should also receive very careful consideration. We believe that
by a careful survey of the district the lines may be so extended in
certain parts and drawn in in others, as to allow for all legitimate
agricultural development and at the same time provide winter feeding
grounds for the elk. The disgraceful conditions prevailing in the
Yellowstone, as regards these animals, must not be repeated here.
In regard to future outings, much reconnaissance work has been
done, chiefly in the Olympics. One party, leaving Sol Duc Hot Springs,
carrying all supplies on their backs, spent sixteen days in exploring the
north and west sides of Mt. Olympus, a practically unexplored region.
They found splendid glaciers, snow-fields, and sublime scenery, but
concluded that the cost of building trails and of getting a large party
into the country would be prohibitive as regards an outing there in the
immediate future. Another party explored the Lake Queniult region
The Mountaineer 101
and the head-waters of the Queets, and still another the Mt. Stewart
country, in the Cascades. All have their individual merits and diffi-
culties.
A new feature this year was the appointment by the Board of a
committee to make a collection of photographs which would illustrate,
consecutively, the different outings of the club—the scenery and some
important or interesting features. Also the collection of lantern slides,
covering the same outings, was enlarged and, in so far as possible, all
gaps filled.
In response to an invitation from Secretary of the Interior Fisher,
the club appointed Mr. Wm. H. Gorham and Mr. E. T. Parsons to rep-
resent it at the conference of National Park Superintendents in the
Yosemite National Park in September. Mr. Gorham reported that the
conference was a great success through the useful and helpful ex-
change of ideas and experiences. The report was published in full in
the Bulletin.
The club had the pleasure of entertaining Miss Dora Keen on her
way to Alaska and Mt. Blackburn and also on her return from her
strenuous expedition, when a banquet was tendered Miss Keen, Prof.
Parker, Mr. Belmore Brown, and Mr. Merle LaVoy, the latter members
of Prof. Parker’s party in his assault on Mt. McKinley. Our guests
entertained us with a most interesting and vivid account of their ex-
periences, much to the pleasure of those present.
The Mountaineers continue to grow with the lusty vigor of youth
and a good constitution, though the Board of Directors are considering
some changes to be offered the club in regard to the latter. The mem-
bership, including applications to November 1, has increased during
the year from 376 to 457, certainly a creditable showing. The Everett
auxiliary, under its enthusiastic leader, has increased its membership
to fifty-seven. During the year they have enjoyed many outings and
entertainments. The Tacoma auxiliary, under the able management
of Mr. A. H. Denman, has also experienced a most satisfactory season.
For the future, the prospects of the club are very bright and its
activities will doubtless continue to expand. In fact, an institution that
can so successfully call on its members for the very large amount of
hard, unselfish work necessary to manage the local walks, outings, pub.
lications, and other undertakings, is bound to succeed.
CHARLES M. FARRER, Secretary.
TREASURER’S REPORT 1911-1912
Receipts
Balance in Seattle National Bank, Oct. 30, 1911_....... $ 245.83
ielairay:atei key eboievey 310: ey een a ete ee CONE Poa eas ee ees 1,334.99
UDCoY C2) Bike 2) Ul ccf ee, Me me ele ee i Neel aed ee. | 265.18
Advertising in Bulletin and Prospectus........ ee, . 144.50
AGVerlisineineA TMU ste. Mecca ee Se eee 154.24
TON iS) ets) EO ae Re MSE ae I Pca eerie. At hel re ex, 86.07
NOBUS te Ses ee ne ee eRe | a 160.00
Sar Of ATVEU aS Sno ae yer es oe ce eS, 5 ben ee 11.50
——— $2,402.31
102 The Mountaineer
Expenditures
IPROSPEGHISs ands Bible timite oe. ee eee es Ce ale ea
Nailines and -AGGreSssiM Bsn. ay ee eat se beecsanecatts 61.75
BISMen aed pbyy HUIStONL any ee ae ee eee 17.82
IS DCDOCOGD Ye LRCASUR CN res cc oe s epae aaae enc ; 19.40
UNSW 2M epee ee ok Se Pee ea MEN NRE SER Ai Se Se eee een ee 567.75
SUNG L SSE, een A Bae me ee eS ee i a ta ceca een oe ee 134.05
BinancialaScerctary (Salary )ite2 ee ee nee ST bO
Brinvine.andsStanOnery: ..— = eee ee 65.50
EUGEILTIG SUG ADT AN CICS 2 ona ors eee ne aes ecb see 49.00
TOTS ee a eee Betts oes So re 211.00
U LYa Feta Vs ta Ss ee aes See eee eee ee BS ae Oo Se eerie ee 2 160.00
Miscellaneous: 22-2. 3 seine ais te eal: Cee iee reas, 37.40
Chutney COTTE CC) a - ree Ns t e pease 255.00
Outstanding check Oct. 14, 1911............ eee ee ee 5.50
Receipts
Outing Fund
Gash in Bank of Galitormial Oct.04 19) ee $ 207.91
oan returned from: Generale funds... 2... 120.00
Miemibensuon: (Otic Oi ea oc. Sse eee Sete ee 2,328.26
ACeSEVGST Ch beeen LNT les ree ee eee eee ee 255.00
Expenditures
Reconnaissance, 1911 and 1912, in Olympics............. ...§ 179.30
TTC) ELTA TOs Gr CTC TAN BE UNTN Geen oa ee rs ah ne enn seen mse 120.00
WW eyo a0 Ys 20) ty 0 Ce) = ane ne me Pearse 2.30
PELE VC) cS Yeh WANG WE HS) KS a of 0 S| eS nena eee eee 7.50
CORR rhea Ie ea a ee eee re eae 2,554.35
LEYS She gu Coy Te, See i ae OE ee ee eee oe nee ee 15.45
Outstandine: checks: Oct gs, 1Od0 se ee sec eee 17.10
Permanent Fund
Cash inva tOr Savines OCts U4 O00 en. oc. c.- ce Seevenet $ 33.00
Cachvinesank tor SavinessOct. (O;0912 2. 2... 193.07
Total Cash Received
es ey eV etepell Weigh h 01.0 Poet ae cE eee se ne en Re .-$2,402.31
OTe ina Ye bh at 5 | Oe ca eee, en SEE Soe Re ee eee eer nee 2,911.17
Permanent fund,-im. bank: 1900... ac..222---.:.--.--.2e0-2c. nee 33.00
Total Cash Expended
ie OER Ure ORT TEL Ce ac Sat a gc rnn ue eas ine ace been $1,935.84
MOREA UNS Ce re oo oe nasa a wcwneatenicas neve sdemratindeG cevedauts 2,896.00
Balance
GB LH aVIGICODOULGHEL EFAUUG <.0.2550onssse~crsoennwsous-enocen avaneeesaut= $ 306.40
Cash in Bank of California ................ eee ae i 15.17
MSC TT ANIONS CNN oe LOLs 10 VALS ow cna 8 s2ca> coda v «bdaanwcuanssncsvasecacseuee 193.07
Oval CASO 40N, BANG S66. )22266ccc pent dese ties eet Lee
Respectfully submitted,
$1,935.84
$2,911.17
$2,896.00
$5,346.48
4,831.84
$ 514.64
$ 514.64
P. M. McGREGOR, Treasurer.
The Mountaineer 103
Additional Assets
Permanent fund owns 7% bonds ...........2...2.222.222-222-2eeeeeeeeee ee 0000
General fund owns 7% bonds ................ Se eee ee 2 000:00
Audited Oct. 30, 1912.
H. A. FULLER
IRVING M CLARK
Original
Seattle, Wn., Oct. 30, 1912.
The Mountaineers, Seattle, Wn.
Your Auditing Committee has compared the financial accounts of
the Treasurer for 1911-1912 with the vouchers and find the comparison
correct. They show:
Ceneralehundereceipts) Of ee ee eee $2,402.3
And Hxpenditurnes Of 22... 2... ; . ..-p1,935.84
And Transferred to Permanent fund............... = L60107
$2,095.91
Balance ee ieee sae ye eee ne eee eee ed EL 306.40
$2,402.3
The balance on hand of $306.40 is on deposit with the Metropolitan
Bank.
Olin se tun Gere CelpisnOn ee ee ee pes ba ba UE
ANGE X PCN GGUS) Ole see fk eee 2,896.00
SES UL AY CC wa ca ke A ec ee A rae te ee ok es Fala
The balance on hand of $15.17 is on deposit with the Bank of
California.
Rernmanecniytund> receipts Ot = ee eee ee $ 193.07
ATT GERD CTCIEUIN CS] a2sces see ee 2 ea ae None
Balan GM ees ere ee ae ee Rater acee de Se Se BEG $ 193.07
The balance on hand of $193.07 is on deposit with the Bank for
Savings.
Assets:
Permanent fund 7% bonds, $200.00 par value.
General fund 7% bonds, $1,000.00 par value.
These bonds are in the hands of the Treasurer.
H. A. FULLER,
IRVING M. CLARK,
Auditing Committee.
REPORT OF THE CHAIRMAN OF THE OUTING COMMITTEE
The objective point of the Summer Outing of 1912 was Summerland
and Glacier Basin (El. 7,000 ft.) on the eastern and northeastern slopes
of Mount Rainier. The distinguishing feature of the Outing and its
most satisfactory result was the finding a way for a large party with
pack train into Rainier National Park from the east. The approach
104 The Mountaineer
was from the upper Yakima Valley near Cle Elum up the eastern slope
of the main range of the Cascades, via Manastash Ridge and Naches
River, then down its western slope and into Rainier National Park on
its eastern boundary. This took the party through a wild mountainous
country with elevations from 3500 to 5500 feet and entirely within the
Rainier National Forest. From the summit of the main range westerly
to the eastern boundary of the Park, so far as available trails for pack
trains were concerned, is practically an unknown country; and as to
this particular part of the country neither the Supervisor of the Forest
nor the Superintendent of the Park were able to give us any informa-
tion on which they would wish us to rely. From the junction of the
White and Frying Pan rivers in the Park, it was necessary to cut a
trail up the latter river to enable the pack train to get into Summer-
land,—three days were spent in this work with ax, cross-cut saw and
grub hoe. One-half of the mountain on the east and north from Cowlitz
Park and Urania Glacier on the southeastern slope to Spray Park on
the northwestern slope, was covered by the party, at elevations ranging
from 5000 to 7000 feet. Summerland, Cowlitz Park, Glacier Basin,
Lodii Basin, Grank Park, Spokwush Meadows or Basin, and Spray Park
were visited and the Frying Pan, White, Inter-Glacier, Winthrop and
Carbon glaciers were traversed.
Seven of the party with two others who met us at Glacier Basin
made the summit of Mount Rainier on August 3rd.
The total mileage of the outing, en route, was one hundred and
thirty-nine; the time occupied twenty-two days.
Barring the loss of two assistant cooks by desertion and one pack
horse over the cliff, there were no casualties.
The return home was through the northwestern portion of the
Park, via Carbon River, to Fairfax, thence by rail to Seattle.
WILLIAM H. GORHAM,
Chairman of Outing Committee.
The Local Walks Committee submits the following report for the
year ending September 29, 1912:
There were 21 Sunday walks with an average of 97 people, 10
Saturday walks with an average of 39 people, and three special outings
with an average of 127 people.
The largest number on any one walk during the year was 220.
There was a boat chartered for twelve of the Sunday walks. On these
trips there was an average of 124 people. The large attendance enabled
the committee to charter boats for points which could not be reached
otherwise on account of schedules and also reduced the expense per
member. ,
Up to date a balance of $274.18 remains in the local walk fund.
G. R. HURD, Chairman.
The Mountaineer 105
“WHEN THE FORESTS ARE ABLAZE”
Katharine B. Judson
“A western tale having for its object the terrific fires which two
or three years ago devastated a hundred thousand square miles of
timberland.
“The tale is simply written, but it holds the interest and nothing
more vivid than the description of the forest fire and the devastation
of the little towns and the fortitude of the people can be imagined.
That part certainly is written by one who knows and is a true lover
of forests.’”—Chicago Tribune.
Miss Judson is a member of The Mountaineers and has dedicated
her book to the club.
LIST OF MOUNTAINEERS ON SUMMER OUTING OF 1912
Abel, H. V.
Annesley, Inez H.
Avey, O. L.
Bailey, Winona
Barlow, Jessie C.
Belt, H. C.
Belt, Mrs. H. C.
Benedict, Anna L.
Brackett, A. H.
Brown, Elizabeth J.
Bryant, S. V.
Burroughs, Edna
Cameron, Christine
Clark, I; M:
Coleman, Linda M.
Corey, C. R.
Davidson, Lola M.
Denman, A. H.
Daniels, Joseph
Flett, J. B.
Furry, Mabel
Gleason, Chas. S.
Gorham, Kathleen
Gorham, William H.
Gorton, F. Q.
Hack, E. H.
Hazards73- 0.
Hazard, Mrs. J. T.
Hinman, H. B.
Hultin, Chas. A.
June, A. H.
Jones, N. E.
Ingraham, E. S.
Irish, Evelyn
Kidd, Jessie A.
Kratsch, Ida
Kendall, Elizabeth
Lovering, Lydia
McGregor, P. M.
Mason, Allen C.
McKay, Helen
Meany, E. S.
Otis; Ba J:
Paschall, Mary R.
Pearce, Duncan
Rand, Grace
Reynolds, Carrie
Scholes, Josephine
Scholes, Emma
Schumacher, K.
Smith, T. H.
Spencer, H.
Stauber, A. H.
Teel, Ellen
Talbot, C. B.
Wood, N. P.
Van Wagerman, Ethel
106 The Mountaineer
INTO THE OLYMPICS
Our SEVENTH ANNUAL OUTING
CHAS. ALBERTSON
No official action in regard to a trip into the Olympic Mountains in
1913 has been taken by the Board of Directors, yet the consensus of
opinion of the individual directors is definitely in favor of it.
Through the courtesy of the Forest Service officials, Mr. L. A.
Nelson will be released from his duties in order to act as Chairman of
the Outing Committee. He will lead the outing.
The summer trip as tentatively planned, extends from the Straits
of San Juan de Fuca on the north clear over the rugged Olympic Penin-
sula to the Pacific Ocean on the south.
Up the Puget Sound and halfway out the Straits by steamer we go
to Port Angeles. Then eleven miles of motor road to the Elwha River
where we are again at home on the timbered trail among the moun-
tains. For several days we follow this winding and climbing trail up
the Elwha Valley to the head waters and even on over the divide
(Dodwell-Rixon Pass) into the sources of the Queets River on the
Pacific watershed. This is the trail of “The Mountaineers” on their
first annual outing in 1907.
Main camp will probably be in the Queets Basin at about 5000 feet
elevation, in full sight of Mt. Olympus, in a wonderfully beautiful nat-
ural park with scattered trees, lakes, brooklets and flowers. It is
flanked on either hand by precipitous rock cliffs and glacier covered
mountains and affords a long vista down the forested Queets. At least
ten days will be allotted for real life in this beauty spot.
Mt. Olympus, 8250 feet, can be climbed in one day from main camp.
The canyoned head waters of nearly all the important rivers of the
Olympie peninsula, flowing in all directions from the mountain, are
readily reached. From nearby peaks extensive yet companionable
views are obtained without excessive work, while sheer canyons and
ice-bound summits will test the ability of the most expert mountaineer.
On the way out we will likely camp near the sisterly lakes, Mar-
garet and Mary, nestling in the low divide. Thereafter the little-
known route follows an ancient and well-worn elk trail down the North
Fork of the Queniult River, then westerly up a branch stream to the
top of the rolling Queets-Queniult divide. Here for a few days above
the heavy timber line in a superb park country at an average elevation
of 6000 feet we camp and tramp coastward until we drop down through
the timber again to the Indians’ gem—Lake Queniult.
The Mountaineer 107
A canoe trip across the lake and down the Queniult River over
thirty miles to its mouth at Tahola on the Pacific Ocean follows. The
Indians are expert canoe men and the day’s trip will be a delight. On
the way down are small houselike Indian graves and myriads of wild
fowl, while the uninhabited wooded banks give one the feeling of being
in the uttermost parts of the earth.
From the Indian fishing village of Tahola we walk nine miles down
the broad ocean beach to Moclips, then the train home.
: a @ Le i a
¥ be eee : 5s-ie 9 : ae
G vi re 7 ‘7 .
# > A Pe. ae ol
: eg +. ra * a
Let Your Foretgn Bubble Burst—Go and
SEE Visit Glacter
AMERICA @ Mitte
FIRST
Summer
The latest of our national playgrounds. It lies in the western section of Mon-
tana, between the Great Northern Railway and the Canadian boundary line, and its
1525 square miles contain over 250 deep blue lakes of glacial origin as well ag
innumerable mountain streams that find their source in the 60 living glaciers and
snow-capped peaks, within the borders of the park,
Here the Rocky Mountains tumble and froth like a wind-whipped tide as they
careen off to the northwest of Canada and Alaska. Here is the backbone of the con-
tinent and the little and big beginning of things; here, huddled close together, are
tiny streams, the span of a hand in width, that, leagues away to the north, the south
and the west, flow mighty rivers into Hudson’s Bay, the Gulf of Mexico and the
Pacific Ocean; here peak after peak, named and unnamed, rear their saw-tooth edges
to the clouds; three-score glaciers within its borders are slowly and silently grinding
away at their epochal task; three hundred lakes in valley and in mountain pocket
give back to the sky its blue, gray or green; half a thousand waterfalls cascade from
everlasting snow in misty torrents or milk-white traceries; rainbows flicker and
vanish in the everchanging play waters, while the clear Montana sun does tricks of
light and shade on pine and rock. High up on some gale-swept crag the shy goat
pauses for a moment and plunges from view; lower down the big horn sheep treads
his sure-footed way. And all is as it was when the world’s first day was done, save
for some man tracks here and there on the winding slopes.
Glacier National Park has no side-shows for garrulous trippers; it has no Coney
Island attractions; it has no geysers; there are other canyons as deep; other
mountains as high; but those who have roamed the world with open eyes say
earnestly that there is no spot where nature has so condensed her wonders and run
riot with such utter abandon; where she has carved and hewn with such unrestrained
fancy and scattered her jewels with so reckless a hand.
ONLY NATIONAL PARK ON MAIN LINE OF A
TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILWAY
For the accommodation of touris’s, the Great Northern Railway has
erected a chain of seven chalet camps in the Park in addition to a
magnificent hotel at Glacier Park Station (eastern entrance) and the
Belton chalets, at Belton (western entrance). The accommodation at
these Great Northern Hotel Colonies is uniformly good, and the rates
very reasonable—3.00 per day. American plan.
ATTRACTIVE HORSEBACK, FOOT AND AUTO TOURS
SPECIAL ROUND TRIP EXCURSION FARES
From all Points East and West
Detailed information regarding Glacier National Park, ex-
cursion fares, train schedules, as well as interesting descrip-
tive literature, cheerfully furnished on application to any Great
Northern Agent, or to
“See America First™
Cc. W. MELDRUM, H, A. NOBLE,
Nati | Dusk dite Asst. Genl. Pass. Agent, General Passenger Agent,
Nn teat Seattle. St. Paul.
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
Opens to the traveler a new and wonderful country, rich in scenic
grandeur, historic interest and splendid opportunities.
In the **Olympian”’ has been attained a perfect combination of luxurious, comfortable
equipment, and a courteous, attentive service that has made the **Olympian Service’”’ famous.
Every day the **Olympian”’ Jeaves Tacoma at 8:45 a.m., Seattle at 10:15 a: m., for all
points East The **Columbian’’ leaves Tacoma at 5:45 p.m., Seattle at 7:15 p.m.
For fares, schedules, reservations and further information call on or address any representative of the
Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound or Chicago, Milwaukee & St Paul Railways.
R. M. CALKINS, GEO. W. HIBBARD,
Traffic Manager. Gen’1. Passenger Agent:
Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Railway, Seattle, Wash.
PLEASE PATRONIZE THD ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
C. C. FILSON
Manufacturer of
Waterproof Khaki, English Gabardine
Forestry Cloth
Men’s & Women’s Outing Garments of all Kinds
Sleeping Bags, Blankets & Woolen Batts
Mosquito Nets
All Kinds of Bedding, Clothing &
Footwear for Out-of/-door Life
We Will Sell any of Our Goods by the Yard
. Ae 11d FIRSIOAVENUE
“a ae : SHAT ELE
emee) GOOD SHOP TO ANCHOR
TO—AN., OFFICE. WHERE
YOU ALWAYS GET THE
JOB WHEN PROMISED—
QUALITY COUNTS HERE: WE PRINT The MOUNTAINEER’
The LUMBERMENS PRINTING CO.
Printing ‘The SHOP THAT SATISFIES” Engraving
HENRY BUILDING PHONE MAIN 3025 SEATTLE, WASH.
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
We Manufacture — Every Description of Pack
Sacks, Pack Straps, Carry-alls, Dunnage Bags and
Sleeping Blankets. Special Orders in Leather and
Canvas Goods, etc.
Alpinstocks Htrke Shoes Flannel Shirts
Skrs Snow Shoes
Duxbak’’ and “ Kamp-It’
: : Our Own Make — Ladies’
Piper & eat Outing Hats in “Duxbake
1117 Second Avenue and ‘‘Kamp-It”’
Complete Outfits
Seattle Tent avd Awning Co.
Manufacturers amd Jobbers—Silk Tents
Made to Order for Mountaineers and
Sportsmen—Sleeping Bags and Tarpaulins
Spring Street amd Western Avenue—Seattle
a
‘lage Ourlmproved Mountain Boot
; ** Rainier Mountain Climber’’
Will prove a decided success. Each season we have overcome
any weakness that may have developed in the boot of the pre-
vious year, until now we have the best one ever shown. Good
for ‘‘hike’’ or ‘*‘climb.”’
Turrell Shoe Company
903 Second Avenue Burke Building
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
J. Fred Blake j The Modern Furniture Co.
Will be glad to greet his Sole Agents (" harter Oak Ranges
friends in his new store— L
Telephone Main 6518 ei 415-17 Pike Street
‘J
a AE lountaineer Annual 9]?
Second Rainier Number
On Sale at the Office of the Financial Secretary
JOEIN. AS BEST. jr<453) New York. Block
Volumes I, II, I11, IV and V on Sale at $1.25 per Set
PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER
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LESE THIN me ne. ee NETTLETON, Editor — :
pate ities e 3 -H, ALBERTSON, Business Maciaren .
GERTRUDE STREATOR, Historian
ae HELEN GRAGCIE : F) cie ae a
3 —OEFFIE CHAPMAN, Aisle 218s 7)" i
< H, A. FULLER | ae LORY
THE
MOUNTAINEER
SECOND OLYMPIC NUMBER
VOLUME VI° 1913
fi :
PUBLISHED. BY’ i
THE MOUNTAINEER S
INCORPORATED
SEATTLE WASHINGTON
Sigh?
The Mountaineer
Volume Six
Nineteen Hundred Thirteen
Price Fifty Cents
Published by
The Mountaineers
Incorporated
Seattle, Washington
Copyright 1913
The Mountaineers
Baconparates
CONTENTS ;
Page
nee TTS NE ANG ge Ae A See Da ae Oe eR eSBs nO core RoE name
Mbemoivimpic. National Forest... 053-2 IR. Tes FORM save en a arcsesaeetcceseeceeteeen st 9
Groageblags ob the, Eiils=— = 222-2 Bdmond Se ilcany ee ee 18
The Olympic Outing—1913..............---......--. GentrudesSineator 2 19
Map of Olympic Outing—1913........2002...... WAN ATE RLINIGIEON Ds, Sect cepa ee ae ete 21
The Ascent of Mt. Olympus..._...................--1 Marion Randall Parsons..........-.---------- 33
Bpbramrrnecwas cr Dayco 2 et kee Hugh Elmer Brottcccsc------2--2-----> 42
PGcenttror, Wit. Meany. x 22. e--ccec cee eoneeee J. Harry Weer........- SN Es Sees eee 49
The Olympics in History and Legend............ Edmond" SS: Meany2 anes 51
STP ONGIINIECS te sn AatEE PAID ETI SON eee rae ee 56
A Few Flowers of the Higher Olympics...... Winona Batley ...........2-2.2-.-------------------*- 59
Cayce “WE Hee ee eae ee me Eazel BARE OUGH Ste eee 65
MiewAscent: Of. Whitehorse. 2---eecese STROM BI ANC CO pee Seah es ee ke See ace 69
Siueensuancd, Womumittees: for yeat OVS TA ee eee oo oa se eee Seen cece 73
REVERE EEEMIVE OWE CA TTIC EE Sos etree eye as rege tS a eee seem neces 73
be ecrei me NOU EATTICOOT Sa escce sche coeste tee eee a ee eal See a ae ea 74
tearing Allert nes hee 86 Lk tok a ee ett oe 74
Miectecw (Mountain -Clubs. 5s cect ee a a ee ee 75
Betemeniie: NOLES 2.0 EN ek re eee edited by Gertrude Streator..............-- 78
Reports:
SECA 21 | ae oe ip PONE SEY NOSES ONE a MCE Sen gee Reagent oe Pap OEP BPD 81
BIRGIT OR: eee i Ee a ae an ee ee ee ren co ee 81
Loy SerT ME fy" | Fin a eee tae or at MERU Re IN Mee 2 RN eer a 83
fie Mountaineer | Lodee ie 222 nha ee ee ee ee 85
Record of Mountains Climbed on Olympic Outing, 1913.......22002000.0..2.......-.--.-- 86
LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN.
Ls
er imal
id
i- _
= =
& - -
me ~—cr av
MT. OLYMPUS
FROM
BLIZZARD PASS
ee |
Chas. Albertson
Mt. Olympus has three peaks, East Peak, Middle Peak and West
Peak. The elevation of the highest peak is about 8,200 feet. The
high point in the photograph is East Peak, about two miles distant
This was climbed by 67 Mountaineers August 11, 1913. In the
lower foreground is the Hoh Glacier, with the westerly lobe cascading
into it. The far end of the right-hand ridge is the West Peak. The
route taken was to the left on the Hoh and then to the right on the
skyline to the summit.
ay
JOHN MUIR
PRESIDENT OF THE SIERRA CLUB, WHO IS LEADING THE GREAT FIGHT FOR
THE PRESERVATION OF THE HETCH HETCHY VALLEY
A BIT OF SEA A.H.A.
Greetings:
From
Erurst Cister
Gaveruor of the
State of Washington
iy
Greeting:
(Why grectitige The mete
Gud the coor Kone
Heart ntepond C 7k reed
op th, Apook % Ue echafiat
Aanptory of tar aiid 200
icc Ase
Cite RO
The Mountaineer
Volume Six Seattle, Washington Nineteen Thirteen
THE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST—
WHAT IT MEANS
R. L. FROMME, FOREST SUPERVISOR
. the extreme northwestern corner of the United States,
surrounded on three sides—west, north, and east—by water,
is the Olympic Peninsula, the mountainous and heavily tim-
eAESE bered interior of which has been set aside through the
wisdom of the National Government as the Olympic National Forest.
This area was withdrawn from all forms of private acquisition, except-
ing as permitted under the mining laws and the special homestead act
of June 11, 1906, which applies to lands more valuable for agricultural
use than for timber, public use, water-power, and other forest pur-
poses, by President Cleveland on February 22, 1897.
For the first few years, this reserve, as it was then called, was,
like most of the otlier early created forests, handled as a reserve pure
and simple, very little study or regard being given to the local busi-
ness interests or to the wisest use of the lands and resources involved.
Beginning with the spring of 1905, however, when the administration
of this, along with an aggregate of some 37,000,000 acres of similar
timber land withdrawals, was turned over by Congress to the Forest
Service, Department of Agriculture, consistent progress has been made
in the practical application of the idea of conservation. The Forest
Service, at that time a small group of technically trained men, who,
with a knowledge of European methods of forestry, were engaged in
studying home conditions with a view to a proper scientific application
of those principles to the forests and timber lands of this country, was
naturally better fitted than any other branch or division of the Gov-
ernment to assume control of these “reserves” and to introduce
rapidly the idea of the greatest use to the largest number. With the
application of this idea of wise use of the national timber resources,
it was but a short time until the very inappropriate and misleading
term of “reserve” was dropped for the adoption of the name national
forest, which means development and use just as rapidly as local con-
ditions and needs permit and justify, and in such a manner as to
prevent waste, attain the greatest benefit for all the people, and make
such benefits just as far as possible perpetual.
10 The Mountaineer
The Olympic National Forest is now and will for all time to come
be of greatest benefit to the people of this country, and particularly of
the local communities, in the production of commercial timber. Just
now, because of the inaccessibility of the vast majority of this timber
as compared with large holdings of private timber on bordering lands
nearer tidewater, there is not nearly the activity that there will be in
the near future, and we are not realizing the benefits which the natural
current production warrants. A rough extensive reconnaissance of the
timber resources on this National Forest furnishes an estimate of prac-
tically 32,600,000,000 feet board measure of merchantable timber (nem-
lock 39%, Douglas fir 31%, Amabilis and other true firs 16%, cedar
7%, and spruce 7%) all but six hundred or seven hundred million feet
of which is considered as within the commercial—now or eventually
loggable—forest area. This timber is largely mature and overmature,
the estimate of this class aggregating 29,000,000,000 feet board measure,
so that there is not at present the amount of annual increment, or
growth, which we can expect after it becomes economically possible
to dispose of the larger percentage of the old stands, and to apply
more closely true silvicultural principles in our forest management.
It is believed that we can safely figure on eventually obtaining an
annual growth of at least 300,000,000 feet board measure in the com-
mercial timber area on this forest, which, with the large amount of
present mature timber, warrants us in encouraging, just as fast as
economic conditions permit, the sale, under proper regulations for
reforestation or continued forest production, of sufficient timber to
make an average annual cut over short periods of years of between
250,000,000 and 300,000,00 board feet.
Even now the timber sale business on the Olympic National Forest
is sufficiently under way to assure the execution of several contracts
this winter for the cutting, during periods of from one to seven years,
of better than 300,000,000 million feet, or an average for the next
several years of at least 50,000,000 feet per annum. At the present
annual stumpage price of $1.75 per thousand feet, an annual revenue
of $87,500 from this source appears certain, 35% of which, or $30,625,
will be returned from the United States Treasury for school and road
purposes within the counties affected by this forest withdrawal—Clal-
lam, Jefferson, Chehalis, and Mason. With the eventual annual cutting
of at least 300,000,000 feet of timber and lightly increased stumpage
prices, the financial feature of the present scientific Forest Service
policy will become much better appreciated. The assured average
annual revenue for the next four or five years in this one forest is
already more than three times the total cost of administration, which
includes all the work of fire and other forest protection, experimental
planting, the administration of the Act of June 11, 1906, the granting
of free use of timber to local settlers, the special use business, timber
VISTA OF
MT. SEATTLE
Th é
Mountaineer
11
The Mountaineer 13
A. H. Denman
MT. OLYMPUS Mt. Olympus to the north about twenty miles distant. Looking
FROM THE across a sea of virgin, evergreen forest on the sloping headwaters
a a of Chileechee creek, which empties into the Queets river. From the
KNIFE-EDGE TRAIL Knife-edge trail.
25 to 30
field men during the summer months—including the expenditure of a
sales, and in fact all the activities of the present forest force
special fund of $5,200 for trail, telephone line, pasture fence, and cabin
construction.
The above brief statement of the timber resources of the Olympic
National Forest and what can be expected in the way of perpetual
production of this product commercially, makes at once apparent the
wisdom from a purely financial point of view of national control and
administration of this million and a half acres of mountainous timber
land. But there are numerous other considerations.
The best available statistics show a per capita consumption of
260 cubie feet of wood in this country (37 and 25 cubic feet, respec-
tively, in Germany and France), or an annual cutting from our forests
of three and one third times the annual growth. This does not include
the annual loss by forest fires. Another value than the purely financial
consideration in the present National Forest policy is therefore easily
evident, and the Olympie which today contains practically one-
eighteenth of all the timber on the 160 national forests in the United
States proper will prove of particularly prominent assistance to the
future generations.
In addition to the financial and perpetuation considerations, all
timbered areas in mountainous regions exert a very appreciable con-
trol on the flood tendencies of rivers and creeks, and on the erosive
or soil wash action of rains on steep slopes. Particularly is this true
14 The Mountaineer
of a rough mountainous region in a locality of heavy rain, for which
the Olympie Peninsula is especially noted, and, within the boundaries
of the National Forest, which totals 1,538,000 acres, or 2400 square
miles, of unalienated land, 375,000 acres is classed as alpine and non-
commercial forest, into which cutting will never be permitted because
of its greater value for purely watershed protection purposes. Limited
tracts, even in the commercial forest area, will develop as business and
community interests increase, to have special values as sources of
municipal water supply, justifying special considerations in the timber
sale policy.
Somewhat apart from the forest cover itself, is the rapidly inereas-
ing importance of water-power sites. The Olympic National Forest, on
account of its particularly heavy rainfall—heaviest in the United
States—its unusually large number of streams, and its prominently
steep slopes, is especially rich in this resource, and the continuation
of the present forest policy will mean in the not very distant future
the development of a vast amount of commercial water-power under
a non-monopolistic leasing system, whereby the benefits will be shared
by all the people. For, with water-power, as in the case of National
Forest timber, true conservation means use under a earefully drawn
contract, which tends to bring about the highest development in the
shortest practicable time and guarantees a commensurate revenue to
the Government.
The special use business on any national forest arises from the
fact that all lands have for some natural or artificial reason greater
value along some one line than any other, and in order to encourage
this—the highest use—special permits are issued. On the Olympie,
there are now nearly 100 such permits in effect, most of which are for
lots for summer residence purposes on the shores of Lakes Crescent
and Queniult, for which a small annual charge averaging $10 is made.
Other special use permits cover hotels, sawmills, pastures, ditches, pipe-
lines, telephone lines, schools, ete., some of which are issued free.
With the improvement of roads, trails, and other transportation
facilities, the special use business on this forest, because of the great
variety of interesting scenie features and many possible activities, is
certain to grow to large proportions, and the present policy encourages
this. ;
The grazing business is of but very minor importance, due to a
lack of favorable range within easy access, and but a small amount of
tree planting on extensive burns is necessary here. The alpine areas,
which inelude the only grass land on the forest, constitute about 20%
of the total acreage, but they are at such high elevations, 3500 to
6000 feet, as to make them suitable for livestock only two or three
months in the summer. Burns constitute only 4% of the total area
1)
Mountaineer
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The Mountaineer 17
within the forest; unproductive or barren lands, such as the high
mountain regions of glaciers and perpetual snow in the Mount Olympus
region, and many high, sharp ridges which cap the steep eastern slopes,
amount to about 16% ; and the remaining 60% is productive timber
land. Young growth, or immature timber, amounts only to about 5%
in the productive timber acreage.
As another phase of forest business, but one which does not enter
into the final plan of forest management, the classification for home-
stead entry of those lands chiefly valuable for agricultural use deserves
mention. Close to 9000 aeres of such land scattered along a few of
the narrow river and creek valleys on the north and east slopes, but
principally in the Queniult lake and Queets river region of the south-
west, have already been listed and a few hundred acres more will
likely follow in the next several years. Agricultural land now covered
with commercial timber is not subject to listing until it becomes prac-
ticable for the Government to dispose of the timber, for it is only in
this way that the entry of lands, under the guise of farming, for
timber speculation and eventual control by large timber-holding com-
panies, can be thwarted. However, as the timber on such lands be-
comes saleable, it will be clear-cut and the area for agricultural settle-
ment increased accordingly, thus again bearing out the true principle
of conservation. Mining, too, is encouraged, and is governed by
exactly the same laws on national forest lands as on the government
lands outside.
Thus far, consideration in this article has been confined to the
more concrete or business values of the Olympic National Forest,
either as now in actual realization or as eventually assured. As a
related feature, however, in this same subject of valuation, aithough
not measurable in dollars and cents, this forest has, due to its unique
location, its beautiful lakes and wealth of fascinating rivers, its
great abundance of unusual scenic features, and several medical hot
springs, its many high rugged mountain peaks and ridges, regions
of perpetual snow and glaciers, its wild and highly interesting alpine
park areas, and its wealth of birds and wild game—including some
2,500 Olympie elk—a value for public recreation purposes entirely
beyond calculation. Being within easy access from Puget Sound
points on the east, Gray’s Harbor on the south, and Victoria on the
north, it ranks unusually high as a vast public summer playground,
and as road, trail, and telephone line construction progresses, opening
up new territory, this interest will naturally greatly augment. From
the very irregular central mass of mountains, culminating toward the
northwest in Mt. Olympus, about 8,200 feet in altitude, the many
streams radiate in every direction, pouring their turbulent waters
into the Pacific, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and Hood Canal. This
18 The Mountaineer
peculiar “eross country” topography, essentially abrupt and steep
slopes at medium altitudes, numerous, although generally narrow
and disconnected park-like areas in the high alpine and timber-line
situations, and—particularly on the longer south and west slopes—the
heaviest stands of large timber in the United States, aside from limited
patches of redwood in California, furnish a rare and wholly unique
treat to the hardy mountain explorer as well as to the lover of dense
stands of massive, bottom-land timber.
GRAY FLAGS OF THE HILLS
EDMOND S. MEANY
Olympics, Olympics, moist home of the mists,
How sure do thy signals, thy flags on the hills,
Call troops of cloud soldiers through tortuous twists
To plunge where a trumpet each cataract thrills.
Each cataract thrills,
Thy thousand new rills,
Wild trumpets of rivers,—
Gray flags of the hills!
Olympics, Olympics, thy fortress of fir,
Thy cavernous hemlocks where world clamor stills,
Where never an elk hears the arrow's weird whirr,
A wilderness peace till the fierce cougar kills.
The fierce cougar kills,
His blood lust fulfills,
Thy shroud for the timid, —
Gray flags of the hills!
Olympics, Olympics, thy swift waters run
To grind the huge boulders in rough granite mills,
A smile at the labor, a kiss from the sun,
They dance as they whirl their rude hammers and drills.
Rude hammers or drills,
As glad worker wills;
Thy rivers are laughing,—
Gray flags of the hills.
The Mountaineer 19
THE OLYMPIC OUTING—1913
GERTRUDE STREATOR
ington, on the steamer Sol Due, at two o’clock, Saturday
morning, August 2, 1913.
Friday evening the dock was the scene of great excitement as
one Mountaineer after another hurried up to the group that was
awaiting the first signal of the whistle—the signal to go on board
the boat. There were the merry hum of voices, the click of alpen-
stocks or ice axes, and many questions. “How much does your dunnage
weigh?” was the eternal question and likewise the accepted mode
of salutation. The signal was sounded; the many friends who had
assembled to wish us God-speed turned away; all retired except the
committee who awaited the coming of belated members.
Port Angeles, where breakfast was served, was reached at about
seven o'clock, August second. Through the kindness of the Com-
mercial Club of Port Angeles, automobiles were provided to convey the
Mountaineers ten miles along the country road to the bridge which
spans the Elwha River. At this point an excellent trail begins which
follows the east bank of the river, leading through beautiful forests
up to the Elwha Basin. After a tramp of ten miles along this trail,
the happy Mountaineers established their first camp at Humes’ Ranch.
Our first camp-fire was opened by the president, Professor Meany,
reading Chapman’s beautiful poem—
OUT WHERE THE WEST BEGINS
“Out where the skies are a trifle bluer,
Out where the friendship’s a little truer,
That’s where the West begins;
Where there’s life in every breeze that’s blowing,
Where there’s laughter in every streamlet flowing,
Where there’s more of reaping and less of sowing—
There’s where the West begins.”
And well may the Olympics be called “Out where the West begins.”
The camp-fire brings the Mountaineers together and unites them
into one great circle, so after the first evening spent around the
fire singing, listening to the history of the great country we were
entering, then hearing the announcements for the next day, and at
last to hear, “Rising call at five forty-five. Breakfast at six-thirty,”
20 The Mountaineer
it indeed seemed that we were a united circle. The feeling of expecta-
tion of a company of nature lovers standing on the threshold of a
great expedition cannot be expressed in words.
Sunday, August third, was a day of rest, although it was not
officially so named. Eight and a half miles along the Elwha River
through the virgin forest brought us to Elkhorn, which was our second
camp. The pack-train was somewhat delayed, but that only helped add
to the pleasure of the good dinner which followed the arrival of the
commissary.
At camp-fire we were told of the nature lovers of all ages
beginning with the Greeks and Romans, down to the Mountaineers,
who show their devotion to nature by their pilgrimage to the mountains.
Camp Three, at Letha Creek, was reached after a walk along the
Elwha through a forest of cedars, hemlocks, white firs, Douglas firs,
and white pines. Every one was thoroughly imbued with the spirit
of the trail. Letha Creek camp was made memorable by the arrival
of Charles Albertson, who had been making a final inspection of the
trail, having entered from the Queniult side. The Outing Committee,
L. A. Nelson, Charles Albertson, and George E. Wright, being to-
gether, our company was now complete.
On August fifth, company formation was necessary as the Elwha
River was crossed on foot logs three times within two and a half
miles after leaving Letha Creek. The hfe line was stretched across
the river to be used as a hand-rail by those who were unaccustomed to
crossing mountain rivers on swaying logs. After the last log was
safely crossed little groups of people loitered along the trail, others
stopped to fish, while some hurried on into camp. Arriving in the
Elwha Basin we were surprised to see the site of the 1907 Mountaineer
camp buried beneath the snow. Camp was established just north of
the old site, but as the little creek which furnished water for com-
missary failed as soon as the sun went down, it was decided that we
should move lower down the next day.
The following morning was devoted to settling permanent camp
(altitude 2590). The women occupied the beautiful grove between the
ereek and Elwha River; the commissary, the south bank of the creek;
the men retained their position near the 1907 camp; the married
people took possession of the hillside.
After lunch L. A. Nelson conducted a party of seventy-nine on a
try-out trip across the snow field up to the glacier just below Mount
Seattle. Every one was delighted with the snow work and was eager
to have a real trip. There was not long to wait for this, as the next
morning an opportunity was given to sign up for the climb of one of
the peaks of the Seattle group.
The ensuing morning found a long line of eighty-four Mountaineers
impatiently awaiting the sound of the whistle which came at last
The Mountaineer 21
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THE MOUNTAINEERS
OLYMPIC OUTING
1913
Scale
Miles
DONE BY ARTHUR NATION
22 The Mountaineer
and the companies moved off on what was thought to be another
try-out, but the seventy-nine who signed the record* at the summit
(altitude 7,100 feet) declared that it was a real trip. The remaining
five stopped about one hundred feet below the summit.
The descent was slow on account of the danger of starting loose
rocks, but as every one moved carefully not a rock was dislodged.
One of the experienced members was heard to remark, “This is a
first-class climb, but not a try-out.” A new member’s version of the
trip was, “I see now what the Mountaineers try to do. They try to see
how high they ean get without falling off.”
Allen C. Mason conducted an Oriental camp-fire at which each
member of the party received some message from the gods; in the
meantime colored lights played over the snow, illuminating the dark
forest behind us.
On Friday a large company visited the Dodwell-Rixon Pass which
overlooks Mount Olympus and the Queets Basin—the promised land.
A side trip was made by the “botany bunch” to the foot of Mount :
Queets, where two falls, though still encased in snow caves, never-
theless leaped down over the high rocky walls and dashed on through
their long ice tunnels. At camp-fire we were entertained by Professor
Meany relating Indian myths and legends in connection with the
history of the Olympics, after which Mr. Kingsbury told Kleckitat
Indian stories.
Saturday was observed as a day of rest and preparation for the
climb of Mount Olympus. L. A. Nelson and P. M. McGregor went to
plan the route of ascent, while Messrs. Hack, Hazlehurst, Pearce,
Bryant, Allen, and Ernst took two hundred and twenty-five pounds of
commissary over to temporary camp in order to make the trip easier
the following day.
At eleven o'clock the Rey. Hugh Brown, standing in a bandanna-
draped pulpit, gave an impressive nature sermon. Professor Meany
presented two of his volumes of poems, “A mountain camp-fire” and
“Mountain camp fires,” to the club. cave)= las 571.12
Assistant Secretary (Salary)............-........ 143.75
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OUTING FUND
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Outing, 1913, miscellaneous sales and refunds.... 130.81
General fund (trail work in Olympics............ 200.00
Disbursements
Reconnaissance (Mount Stuart)...:...........%. 23.00
Reconnaissance (Stihekin and AgneS)............ 40.92
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