nia adele: : 4 Wa at = Lea a , ee oi NOE ER WeGibson-lovi i! — — , ~s “ is ty * (eel . PMA) pha iat ‘i ve er ee \ ohana ie APA H ty ueniteuane | i fe By | nant nin ye ; i io) iy Wen 4 hye! 1 wh ‘ ; ‘ a, . a tay Oy , ; , 1 i By Ranh aoe a HH) wi VO Gee eM Lok NOVEMBER, 1910 i a PUB ETS H.E.D * BY THE MOUNTAINEERS SEATTLE, WASHINGTON NINETEEN HUNDRED TEN = < a” * ‘ ww ad ‘oe P j “A is : ,? a aya .% ed . ‘ , ’ J “/ ‘ ¥, 7 ane . Ls we - ie +9 5 ma: ; ’ i iy me : ¢ ‘ . p we n ;* ae P Pi s " eo aart he ¥ 7 ‘ * Cy 5 ® J da x d xa : on” * i . t pa ~~ ‘ ° 4 ¥s,/ « ° " ‘- i * ’ ' m i de L ;. # f 5 . : na ’ * «n? ‘ 7 . b j a ar? be ae > r| A . an! * fo ’ . t ‘ . ; ; : ; > 7s : ‘ x Hay rape ws a ® es » " . P 3 = ) o> py a ieee | ee A; om «~*~ ° ‘ A 1 omg re A " -— 7s: hy s . => ad ar The Mountaineer VOLUME ITT. Published by THE MOUNTAINEERS Seattle, Wash. IQIO Copyricut 7 : 1910 Tue MovunrTarINneERS ,. CONTENTS Page Grectiney ee) OE CN TYR V ILD Yi aa2 CCC GIN 2 ee ee ne een Sea 2. OTS RICNGTd Burton: ...------2-2-20- Objectssof Our Clube =e PTO Eb aAmond 8S) Meany......<.2--- 4 Doorseote Davin ess ee ee DT ennys VON DYKE. .2.22 8 A New Mountain Country.................. Edward W. Harnden.................... 9 A Bird Day in the Cascades.......Adelaide Lowry Pollock.............. 16 Report of the Botanists....................Dr. Cora Smith Eaton................. 18 WANONGSBOICYE 2s =, CGIACICT MR CAS 2.5 ee 2 ae Prof. Hdmond 8S. Meany.............. 24 Record of Ascents of Glacier Peak...5. A. Nelsons 12s cece eee 25 The Mountaineers’? Outing.on Glacier: Peale 2.2.0 cioi oc eccce ected ecceeceeeez TUE IN CUOLELO Ne re oe 29 Legends of the Cascades..................... PROfa We NGI ee ee 40 MA aT Sit se ee ee (EURO ee NUE SO DEY DUN hee eee 44 The Sierra Club Outing to the King’s River Canyon.................002...... Marion Randall Parsons.............. 46 Mapping 4Mt. sRainier (Nationally Park=- 3s) we ee. HOSE VEQGUNES20 ee 2 53 Great White Hills of God... Rev. Francis J. Van Horn............ 55 Wi SUS EICIONS sat ease ee Be OS HOTSU CS. eee en ee 56 WocalwOmbin es ET eA Ce AME LL Cir: meee eee sae gene 62 Siecesteda Activities: =) =. ae ee: ARTES SAVOCTES ON ae tere ae 70 Outine@ot 19isle fe 2 ee TGS SAR ON(CUS O12 ae oie ea Oe eee 73 INotessolsOtheri@lubss seo Sear ane pee! ese Rie Oo ee 74 IN OCS sire ccse me ees ce ee EE 9M Be Sd ee nee ec ke ee ee ae 77 Reports— 1S OCQNS Wal K:Sameten ateetinss Stee, LIER s ee eee ee a Sa ee end Se 80 OMICETS Bl Gill a9 dale el GU RE ie ee ae oe ee 81 HVveretouMOUuntaineens i see es oe eee ge ee 82 lernofea ryan (Cfaraau cal tsley a ee eS oe ee oe ee 3 SS CCLC LAL ee ee ene eee eee ME ee ae eee en Ne EIT Steely en. Sis 84 Oubin gC OMmmM Ite ce ee ee eee ee enc SN he 85 ALVCAaSUTeE) => Dera 5 Ses A Oe Fe ie on 2 3 hee 86 IMEEM STS Up ie esa ee es ie nv See Nie te eR ee parte en ees eee 87 BibWosraphys Se ee ee eee en ee Compiled by Helen Gracie. ILLUSTRATIONS Glacier Peak ................ Be ee Pot te te Ber A Paen BLS rey acme tee Plate BGG COlnnmnynns 3 ON Vs GC lACIO Tera cea aces reece eee Piate Mountains Southeast of Earl Grey Pass..............------2-2-------0<+ Piate Capra War Grey ass aa cacaece err cece reece core eene tacteensee ae Pilate Mountains South Earl Grey Pass Fear oS aac Be Sama enen cee oon Plate Foe, CGlOmMns. “LOD Yy | GlaACKOT ee re eect emt eeene peeeeaeneene Plate Mountain Smartweed ...... a0 5 Sa ee te eee ce anaee cea eee Plate Western Mountain Anemone ono isc eoceei ccc ccentecererensee== Plate MEhite MBOdOGENGTOM: eer are ee Ee DUC A Crevasse Below the Summit of Glacier Peak.................. Plate Te CAC INGISOM ate iG ere ee care ccc neae tee nee eeneae Plate Head -of ther Suiattle Give ecco arene Plate 11 ams EW 0a t= ll Ne ee eS doe eet = See ee Plate Hast Vidette trom Bullfrog Wiake re. or creo wwe cone eeeceeneeaesaees Plate Mt. Stanford=and)Jumetion: Peak ee reece reer eee Plate Bullfrog, Lake from (Charlotte: Tyrael. ot sce: .c2-cecneseeee-e Plate Wiew from the’ Baserol) Minn: Domes cece eee eee ee oncsce sees Plate Pack Train? Crossing “Cloudy. Passe crac ssc coe cesece ewes eee Plate St. Helens “andi Spirit Dialers es Be ence cere eee ree Plate RP Era RCONIS GILT LON oneness ee eee Plate Wiew near’ Scenic Hot. Springs... eee Plate Road Along the Snoqualmie Rivev.......................--...... pas Plate AlonS ther rail. Of a iu0Cal Walk ee eee Plate Railroad Creek ....... ie a= Ee Ae a ile GE MRE er oe PES La why ee OF 8 Plate Ten Peak Mountain from Camp Nelson...........................-.------- Plate SUD SEIIEC LV OLS fotos) OA aie, tate aie Puke ee hee Plate Returning from the Summit of Glacier Peak ...................... Plate RIV TRIT CIRG1 OT ocean ee Pilate Cedar and Fir in a Washington Forest........ ee eee ee ELLE, EIT cits 27s (0) C8) Ra a ee ae sae Neer eee ee te Be ad fife) Lake Chelan a eee eed erie EE EG XXIT XXIII XXIV XXV XXVI XXVII XXVIII XXIX XXX XXXTI MVGd UAIOWIO coispuyy q oly ‘OD oryduaxojoy SUBMIOY IYAPIAdo) L Id Greetings: Henry Van DAunke ae ij), Avalon, fvinceton,N.Y. ae toccct SS ee | Spyttas “e Cram Sea | tie asa be dh. wins 6s fom | COSPN er (oe ame fro) gee Fart tay terres efor ae re We tg | BS Arecgr GK, Cate talon. - (ao rt MBE ea GQ , fatit- “4 (t— puae rE They char ao GAGs Wer aun tn, “~~ WOPERG eels) ee Loge Fal hi con Gren & Chie IFawo . Vetline Zo. J will send the Club greeting in the words of Shen's Little Eyolf in final speech of Allmer in the play... 2... ek “Upmards —Comards the Jivaks, tmnards the Stars, aud tomards the Great Pilot. ia ae THE MOUNTAINEER Vou. III SEATTLE, WASHINGTON, NOVEMBER, 1910 OBJECTS OF OUR CLUB. By Epmonp S. MEany. President of The Mountaineers Club. The Mountaineers Club was organized to climb mountains. That fact is implied in its name. Every summer the big an- nual outing is conducted as carefully planned during the pre- ceding winter. The four annual outings have been successes on an increasing and encouraging scale—the Olympic Moun- tains Outing of 1907; Mount Baker, 1908; Mount Rainier, 1909; and Glacier Peak, 1910. The men and women who par- ticipated in one or more of these outings and who ascended these great peaks under the banner of our club exceed two hundred in number. The above brief and truthful statement would probably suffice for the ordinary person’s conception of The Moun- taineers Club and its objects. But that statement falls far short of conveying an adequate idea of the objects of our club. In the first place, The Mountaineers Club comprises four hundred men and women who love the mountains. They also love the forests and valleys, the rivers, lakes and the bound- less sea, they love the trees and flowers, the birds and animals, they love the beauties and wonders of nature, among which the mountains seem but one sublime manifestation. By seek- ing the joy of seeing and knowing these beauties they gladly turn and point the way for thousands of their fellows to see and know in pure and endless joy. This is a new country. It abounds in a fabulous wealth of scenic beauty. It is possible to so conserve parts of that wealth that it may be enjoyed by countless generations through the centuries to come as well as by countless individuals of the present generation who have not learned the way to the hills. This club is vigilant for a wise conservation and it is also anxious to blaze ways into the hills that anyone may follow. 6 The Mountaineer A year ago the ofticers of the club heard that majestic cedar trees were being illegally destroyed along the wonderfully beautiful road in the Mount Rainier National Park. It was being done under the screen of a perfectly sensible contract permitting the use of dead and down cedar timber. Instantly agents of the club were sent to the ground who with cameras obtained evidence that caused the authorities at Washington City to stop the vandalism. Every reader of these words should applaud that work for the National Park belongs to all the people. For a similar measure of protection this club persuaded President Roosevelt to proclaim the Olympic Mountains as a National Monument. There is another immense and beautiful park that belongs to all the people for all time. On every outing the club expends much money and labor in constructing new trails or improving old ones that those who follow may find and enjoy the same beauties. By ex- ample, precept and law, where needed, the ciub seeks to pre- vent forest fires, the destruction of trees, plants, birds and animals, the pollution of streams, or any other harmful thing to the wonderful inheritance God has so lavishly bequeathed to the children of this favored Pacific Northwest. The Club has a committee at work preparing a card cata- logue of all the trails in Washington. All helpful information is to be recorded on the cards so that they will serve any party planning a trip into forests or hills. It is, of course, an enormous undertaking but every card completed is that much gain and years of patient effort ought to bring the catatlogue near completion. It is proposed to keep this catalogue on file in the Seattle Chamber of Commerce for the use of the public. We wish to save old names and to bestow new ones of an appropriate kind where no names are known. With this in view we now have a committee at work in cooperation with the national authorities. There has also been appointed an Edelweiss Committee charged with the duty of securing seeds and plants of the Iidelweiss from the Alps to further beautify the grand peaks of Washington. This committee will then expand its functions by establishing in Paradise Valley a garden of mountain flowers and shrubs such as are maintained by five of the nations of Europe. Correspondence to this end has already The Mountaineer r begun. The work is manifold. There are plants in Alaska of surpassing beauty that may be brought to our mountains. One suggestion has been made that this committee may help cities get squirrels for their parks as has been done in Madi- son, Wisconsin, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, Richmond, Virginia, and elsewhere. 3y no means the least of the Club’s activities has been reserved for the last. The summers are devoted to the annual outings. The other seasons are occupied with local walks. Twice each month parties from twenty to one hundred follow a designated leader on a tramp through the woods and over the hills. They are not people of any bizarre creed. They are just nature lovers from all walks of life who seek a whole- some recreation along paths in the forest or on the shores of Puget Sound. Photo by A. H. Cruse THE PARTY LEAVING CAMP FOR A TRYOUT TRIP The Mountaineer DOORS OF DARING. HENRY VAN DYKE. The mountains that enfold the vale With walls of granite, steep and high, Invite the fearless foot to scale Their stairway toward the sky. The restless, deep, dividing sea That flows and foams from shore to shore, Calls to its sunburned chivalry *““Push out, set sail, explore!” And all the bars at which we fret, That seem to prison and control, Are but the doors of daring, set Ajar before the soul. Say not, “Too poor,” but freely give. Sigh not, ““Too weak,” but bodly trv. You never can begin to live Until vou dare to die. —From ““The White Bees and Other Poems.”’ Copyright by Charles Seribner’s Sons. Pilate. If. Photo E. W. Harnden ICE COLUMNS, TOBY GLACIER The Mountaineer 9) A NEW MOUNTAIN COUNTRY. YpwarRD W. HARNDEN. The editor of the “Mountaineer” asks me for an account of the doings of the Appalachians this past season. I assume, modestly, that she refers to the doings of Mr. Gleason and myself—in which, until the last moment, Mr. Emerson hoped to join. We had talked of climbs in old Mexico or southwest- ern Colorado, revisiting the Grand Canyon, ete., and at the last moment, like Dooley’s “Happy and riochous flea,” we jumped without preparation or ceremony to the headwaters of the Columbia, in western Canada. Gleason had a_ little prior knowledge of the region, but I had listened cynically to his enthusiastic boosting. I return, however, ready to bore the Mountaineers and others, myself. So listen to the siren song of a new, beautiful, unexplored mountain country, almost at your doors, with the finest peaks in western Canada, most of them still unclimbed. ‘Dost like the picture?” Leaving the main line of the Canadian Pacific at Golden, we boarded a flat, light-draft stern-wheel Columbia River boat for Athelmer, about ninety miles south and at the head of navigation. Much is truly said and written about the beauty of the Columbia and its superiority to the Hudson and Rhine by people who simply know the river up to The Dalles in Ore- gon. Its real, transcendent beauty is near its headwaters. From Golden to Athelmer majestic mountains line the banks— to the west the Selkirks, to the east the Rockies; and _ the sinuous course of the stream—while it sometimes causes the stranding of the steamer on a bar or projecting point from which it has to be laboriously poled—offers marvelous shifting vistas into the unexplored and more highly mountainous and elaciered region a little back from the river. You can travel by auto or team on the road that threads together the few small, scattered hamlets at which the boat occasionally stops to unload a plug of tobacco or something equally important ; and within a few years, if present plans are carried out, the 10 The Mountaineer locomotive whistle of what nay eventually be a part of the main line of the Canadian Pacifie will awaken the mountain echoes. It is a marvelously beautiful valley, holding out alluring prospects for the rancher and tourist. A six-mile trip from Athelmer landed us at our Windermere village headquarters, on the east shore of Lake Windermere, the lower of the two Columbia lakes. The village is beautifully situated on one of the benches. These rise to successive levels and terrace back into the hills, showing the breadth of the river | in past ages and the way it has carved these giant steps with its continually narrowing channel. The even, broad surfaces, only interrupted by occasional deep-gashed ravines made by the side streams from the mountains, are sparsely sprinkled at curiously regular intervals with fine specimens of the Douglas fir. These are the only trees on the benches, although the ravines are more or less choked with alders and other small growth. Our explorations were to lead us along the side creeks or tributaries of the Columbia, which form natural gateways for men and pack animals into the high, backlying Alpine country. But the thick smoke from the forest fires of Montana, just to the south—which later prevented a proposed visit to the new Glacier National Park—enforced two weeks of idleness. We planned the ascent of an unsealed 10,500 or 11,000 foot peak of the Rockies, which seemed to offer a splendid viewpoint, but the blanket of smoke would not lift. A partial clearing enabled a young rancher and myself to visit the upper Colum- bia lake, getting a tantalizing suggestion of some magnificent, precipitous scenery; and near the foot of the lake, on the steep rock walls of a narrow pass where Indian tradition says the local Kootenays in the remote past ambushed and overwhelmed an invading force of the previously dominant Blackfeet, we found and photographed some ancient Indian pictographs which evidently recorded the battle. We were also interested in two Indian praying places near by, where the present-day braves who pass still deposit small fir branches broken from neighboring trees as they ride along, keeping up, in spite of the efforts of the priests, the primitive votive offerings to their old gods. Gleason had raved about Toby Creek, a western tributary of the river which offered an approach to the high, back-lying The Mountaineer 1] Selkirks; and finally, heavy rains laying the smoke, we started with a pack outfit up the stream. *Jones, Nancy Emerson......711 E. Union St............... ce se JONES, sive pele te eek ees. OBSHING OLS Ur brig, ctor cece. oe if ¥ The Mountaineer 91 Joyce, Maurice D............... 1815 Hewitt Ave......... ..Hiverett, Wash. iid Ges Siege es as 15 SB OLENy Aver eee Seattle, Wash. Judson, Katherine B....._.. 1708 Harvard Ave........... ss «S IeCabin aah jWeetes en ae 14 W. Harrison St.........Seattle, Wash. EG aye Nee ee eee NORCO AWC sa oe Everett, Wash. Kellett: Gladys) = --) = 1609 E. Columbia St.......Seattle, Wash. *Kellett, Susanna _............... 1609 E. Columbia St... hi Ser SH anwar Alli COut= eee = LO Ano Ua ANC nee ees *Kiess, Grace Margaret. 1413 Queen Anne Ave... Rinney= al) Wee ee 2108 Rucker Ave............. Everett, Wash. Kleemeyer, Tillie M......... 1627 Bellevue Ave.......Seattle, Wash. Koller, Emma H...............2608 Rockefeller Ave....Everett, Wash. SKervhnenin Wess se 423 E. Mercer St............Seattle, Wash. Krippaehne, Anna ............ 424 Globe Bldg.......... sn Sk 5 PESTO WS te VEC LV nit cAn eae. ee ee Be 5p een Sitka, Alaska. *Krows, Mrs. Melvin A.__.. Ree or OR Se Ty Sa ee ae * Landes, Prof. Henrvy.......... 4503 Brooklyn Ave......... Seattle, Wash. Slieare Evan yi be ae ees University State Bank.. se cs *Leckenby, Mollie E.......... Seattle Gen’l Hospital... “ AGI Sleyaalas see. oa eae nee SE es ear Lakeside, Wash. TM AViCRS ahs ee 420 Regent Apts............. Seattle, Wash. =Woverino: laydia Bs... ZONE DOSCOMMS tee eee SS “s Baer TV LIN PaO Tay Win SL) Sok ose see acon ee eR Bas ee el Walla Walla, Wash. MacAllister, Josephine E. Hotel Lenox _.................. Seattle, Wash. McCarney, Margaret ........ Fauntleroy Park _.......... a ut McConnel, Mary HE. ............ 1630 Blaine Blvd....... ae McCormick. J: 4B.) 1606A Belmont Ave....... aIViecDamielss, We t-2 Columbia; Stas cs MGHiwamns Ax. Hits ose 1409 Madison St............... McEwen, Mrs. A. J............ ThexChelseaw = *§ és *MacFarland, Winifred ...... St. Helen’s Apts............... Tacoma, Wash. =VicGrecor. 2. Me CobbeBldsa == a= Seattle, Wash. MeEEUISh Heber 629 New York BIkE......... s § MacInnes, Leonora A......... 4747 18th Ave. N. H....... - os MICK CG EC El ees ee es 605 Minor Ave................. f , Marr, Hy Tsabella 22 1716 Boylston Ave.......... Seattle, Wash. =Martins Angelica) =... Bord 95 sie ee eee Everett, Wash. SVMeanyaerot. Beas. 4025 10th Ave. N. E....... Seattle, Wash. Meany, Thomas Mercer....4025 10th Ave. N. E....... a Merrill A> ROseT see Gees Ge ACY Cree a ee ‘s Miller; cAnmnay Hye 16Z6etothe Aves === a ee MillseiSlake Ws ses 938 220 -AvewINe =. <2)... y 5 Mills, Mrs. Blake D........... 938-220: Ave Nea. Mooers,.ben C2225 1007 Boren Ave. _.......... Moore, Elizabeth -........2... 4032 Burton Place... _. Bs Moore, Lloyd S..................- The Chelsea, sh. 4 VIO TAs EOD CT ato ee cee ee Sea st Rosario, Wash. 92 The Mountaineer Morrill Sayre ree ao L. Li. Moore -Co........ Seattle, Wash. MOLGTISON ME te ee 762 Bellevue Ave. N....... *s > Morse, vA lice An eee 1712 Summit Ave.. vt = IW RICCI Ohl S Eee eie Seen 1711144 Hewitt Ave........Everett, Wash. NYE 77:7, cl Depa Vice Wns 2 ee ees ee 1711144 Hewitt Ave. ef a Nation, Arthur C..............1214 Madison St...............Seattle, Wash. Nelsont hsb sso eee Associated Press _. a ro * Nelsons aA: nea 627 Colman Bldg. *Nettleton, Jessie —.............. 1806 8th Ave. W. *Nettleton, Lulie —............... TRO GSSthy Awe Wi: INGWILO TM Bin) 6 Bee es ee A ea ee Re an Snohomish, Wash. Noel Blanch. ss: LAS Broadway Seattle, Wash. NordellsAnnay. =. = ...4742 15th Ave. N. E...... sc cs NVexoRODCLG (hist tas Ss ee Sk eee Snoqualmie, Wash. Oalkiley7 hnola pes TL PAPAL NYE ASS) ol aan} epeeeee ee ee Seattle, Wash. FOakieys June =.= ==. - 1722 W. 59th St....... Rag os Oakley, Mary 22.2 2 122 W: 59th St: O} Connell Dr: aw (O0“CobpeBide 22: Orton, Dds core ees ee Ohio State University...Columbus, Ohio. Palmer, Kimball B............. Side Minor Aves = 2: Seattle, Wash. Parsons) ieee sss se a as BOE Ger eee oe San Francisco, Cal. sal SPC) OPINED i Ie Ward le tat Ee cele a Ren ies ORR cee Sree ere Bee se Chico, Wash. Patton, Gypsie N..._............3001 N: 24th St.............Tacoma, Wash. Payne Roger 2. 5-2 710114 ith Ave... Seattle Wash: *Paine, S. E..........................2020 Wetmore Ave........Everett, Wash. Perley, Mary L............. ..L712-Summit Ave..........- Seattle, Wash. Peterson. Jas) Ajo ...2922 3rd Ave. W........ % « 12) FEA neh oe ol ae \\ eae eee 4840 Lowman Drive... : Pollock, Adelaide L........... W. Queen Anne School. Prati rank, Wp es oc 4319 10th Ave. N. E...... TICO We cst tae ee eee oe 524 1st Awe: S:.:..2:.2.. 2 sy Price, Mrs. W. M...... = bee dstAvie: S:.:; : is PUT ss ELGLOM wees. esac IBORMO ZS ee omens ao ss Ramaker, Nellie D............. SiO bth Aven terete Seattle, Wash. Rathbun, Louise ...............515 Boren Ave....... : fe s Raymond, Madge) Hi .31546 Ist ‘Ave. IN....2--. — uf Raymond, R. W.................848 Central Bldg.. 4 *Reed, Bertha E...................Board of Public Wks..... RGEC Win ene ere teens The 335 Orato LS cP eee ee 33 Us Remer7Amnna: (25.42.28: Bell’s Court .....t..............Everett, Wash. Reynolds, Clara P.....2..-c18L) 17th Ave...... .....seattle, Wash. TCO, MAT Gre Se ee eee 53314 New York BIk.. ss RODOLESS Lote este oan aoe DUO? Loud AALVEl ING K..2.5. ae a Roberts; erot. MM... 22.2.2. 4505 15th Ave. N. E.... . PROBS IW Ace 2 es ee es wk Room 201 King St. Sta.. : es: HORS OLE. We A ee ce eo. 625 12th Ave. N............. A « Rouse, Elizabeth ................ PARTE ORY Oh ok BS | ie eer eee cs iL The Salishunyee rane ee eee ee oe reall avonahs. MC 81D astern ween 1647 20th Ave....... Sanford seed ase 819 Malden Ave... Savage, Henry T.22_........ 212 23d Ave. N... Scholes, Emma D............... TUS SOR ID Shes ee = SS CHOLESSe. ha eee eee OCR SOs St TOCHOLESS S Lela ee (OSES On lem SG ee Schoregge, Jo M................. 3400 Rainier Ave... Schumaker, Katherine _ Schwager, Mrs. Lewis 101 1st Ave. N Mountaineer _.Clinton, Wash. Seattle, Wash. -Tacoma, Wash. Seattle, Wash. Schwartz, ROSe 23. 212 Pioneer Bldg..... Ese Searlessa bs hse oe 2812 Rockefeller Ave..... Sedgwick, Helen F............. CAL OPMENO Vite Acvie res — Sherwood, Floca C.......-.2407 Everett Ave... Simmons, Mima. 2.2 iZ2eWeoothast.se se Simonds, Emma R..........306 Bellevue Ave. N Sipprell J. 232 c/o Sherman-Clay Co Smith, Mrs. Florence... Smith, Victor Hugo c|o Smith Drug Co. 1208 Boylston Ave... Everett, W “ce ash. ‘ Seattle, Wash. “c “ec Everett, Wash. Seattle, Wash. “ec North Yakima, Wn. Seattle, Wash. Spokane, Wash. Everett, Wash. ce “e Seattle, Wash. “cc “cc “cc “ec “c “c “ec “ec “eé “c “c “ec “ Everett, Wash. Seattle, Wash. “ce “ee Leavenworth, Wash. Seattle, Wash. Terre Haute, Ind. Seattle, Wash. Everett, Wash. Washington, D. C. Seattle, Wash. Everett, Wash. Seattle, Wash. Portland, Ore. _.Everett, Wash. SUT AC Te, 1 Wye] Whee oes sseeeee ad City Engineer’s Office.. Syn a Sh LO ee Sw Bs ASS th Aves... SSOuthaAnds, Mrank es: eet NG Selo GheeAwies = eee = *Spafford, Erle G...............Houston School ...... Sparks; cAngvie: Dies 2. 1909 Rockefeller Ave. SHOW Ose WN 1D Pg Oe eae 2122) Rucker! Awe 2: Spaulding, Marion A......... 1909 Rockefeller Ave... Springer, Alice: 2.522) ES One ol OG heeAGyiC =e Staem pili, Alice 23:2 Otel Miaiyaee == StalberseAcas ree oe ee ees 27 Colman Dock...... Sterrett, Nellie B............... 1515 Boren Ave......... Stevens, Drab Ra 1505 E. Madison St..... +Stevenss Ts Hwee seme 1505 E. Madison St. Strawbridge, B. A............... 405 Colman Bldg....... *Stream, M. Catherine.......305 City Hall_........ Streator, Gertrude ~........... 1427 15th Ave... StrykersGeo! Wr) Re eo Oe 5 ie ; SIA, IDOWINS: So ee ee 2120 ist Ave. N..... SCN bE IDE Sse ee 259 Colman Bldg..... SVIVEStC Ae isan te ee ee ey ee dee eed AS HU GT Vios (eta so ot See Wi02Z=. Hs 65thy St. aHOMAS Heel eA ee eee LOZAGeGihwAsvier = ae. BHOnTaSs VS EL we Nese 4115 12th Ave. N. E Thompson, Anna M........... 2607 Everett Ave.......... hompsonh) by ee 603 13th Ave. N. W Thompson, Maude .............. LOZSsUMOne S bee Thornpinrss Dele 1631 Rucker Ave..... AMoeboal, Wiphcivoysh. oo 5 hee. The Chelsea ............ Mard-srankise . 2s eee 724 Electric Bldg........ Tidballh yee ee Colby Bldg. +Torrey, Brittanial Ge 2414 Hoyt Ave... “ce “ce 94 *Torrey, Mrs. Helena J *Tuttle, Gladys Vane Horn] (Reve ade Van Horn, Robert Wizeant.s hae en re ee Wahlman, Hulda . Walker, Maude E. Wamsley, May Wampler, Anna M. Way, Jack Way. Mires Me Po... Way, W. W. ..... Welch, Geo. ... Welch, Ida Wells, BE. H..... Welsh, Eunice V......... NWWGSE.. VV ee ee West, Bertha White, Aleria - Whitehead, Rhea Wick, Martha M.. The Mountaineer S47 ThakeAwe.-. 5.5226 Grand Rapids, Mich. Se Suan een re Me. LS, Ses Nad es Nampa, Idaho. 923 James St........ ees ee Seattle, Wash. ..923 James St... : oh * RPA O bye rene VN he at ee * ss 022 Belmont Ave. N....... Seattle, Wash. =.620 Olympic’ Place.=..... os = a2 440 St. o-- Wiese .....5508 15th Ave. N. W... at Oileeo OCH ePAG Cy Sse eee _.Box 109 University Sta_ _..Box 109 University Sta. ge Dill EL OWite PACVG see cee ae Everett, Wash. (Orel Gti WAV CNuIN c= tees ee Seattle, Wash. _-Broadway High School... se -Am. Nat’l Bank Bldg.....Everett, Wash. SARUM aQoyane rss KSirs ek ee Seattle, Wash. EB OX TL Y beeen ae eee ..Everett, Wash. 400 Mehlhorn Bldg... Seattle, Wash. 2606 Rockefeller Ave-..Everett, Wash. Wilikess sAgrt hry eee ee eo OF IST GAVE? eee Seattle, Wash. Wilkins, W. H....... Saji) Pratveblydes- = Chicaconolls Williams, Geo. T ae SL OORCODDE Dd _..Seattle, Wash. WiiLSOn 2 OSED NmiWiee es Lemire eee ee en ge s Wintermute, C. A............... 2608 Rockefeller Ave.....Everett, Wash. Woodward, Dr. Adelaide.4707 Brooklyn Ave......... Seattle, Wash. Worthington, Clara A.......1421 15th Ave................... ¥ Wari eit GeOns Breese eos. ed S GANIC Nees eee ‘ * Witichiive Wiad s)-- bOG LSthi Ave. IN... i fs Wyman, Dr. Martha K......Northern Bank Bldg... “ - Woyminls sin Gz es ees cee S08sShelbynote- 2 es s Port Townsend, Wn. The Mountaineer 95 ADDITIONS TO THE PREVIOUSLY PUBLISHED BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. Compiled by HerLen GRACIE. BAILEY, WINONA. Flowers of the mountain. (In The Mountaineer, vol. 2, pp. 29-37. Nov., 1909.) 1 illus. Bibliography of Mount Rainier. (In The Mountaineer, vol. 2, pp. 65-70, Nov., 1909.) BROWNE, JOHN ROSS. Resources of the Pacific slope. (N. Y., 1869. pp. 537-38.) CLARKE, S. A. Bridge of the gods. (In his Pioneer days of Ore- gon history, vol. 1, pp. 138-41.) COOPER, JAMES G. Report upon the botany of the route. (In U. S. war department, report of explorations . . . to the Pacific Ocean, 1853-56. Washington, 1860. Vol. 12, pt. 2, pp. 13-76.) COPE, EDWARD D. Sketches of Cascade mountains of Oregon. (In American Naturalist, vol. 22, pp. 996-1003.) COTTRELL, GEORGE E. Boating on Lake Chelan. (In Pacific sportsman, vol. 2, pp. 378-79. Sept., 1905.) CURTIS, ASAHEL. Mountaineers’ outing to Mount Rainier. (In the Mountaineer, vol. 2, pp. 4-12. Nov., 1909.) 6 illus. DARTON, NELSON HORATIO. Our Pacific northwest. (In National geographic magazine, vol. 20, p. 658. July, 1909.) FAY, CHARLES E. World’s highest altitudes. (In National geo- graphic magazine, vol. 20, pp. 493-530. June, 1909. Mount Rainier, p. 509.) FINCK, HENRY T. Oregon and Washington snow peaks. (In his Pacific coast scenic tour. N. Y. 1891. pp. 203-16.) FREMONT, JOHN CHARLES. Memoirs of my life. Chicago, 1887. (Cascade Mts. vol. I, pp. 282-3, 288-9.) HARNDEN, E. W. Lure of the west. (In the Mountaineer, vol 2, pp. 25-29. Nov. 1909.) HERBERTSON, ANDREW J. & F. D. (eds.) Descriptive geography of North America. London, 1901. (Extracts from various authors, pp. 162-68.) INGRAHAM, MAJOR E. S. Early ascents of Mount Rainier. (In the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp.. 38-41, Nov. 1909.) ITTER, JULIAN E. Glympse of the Chelan country. (In Pacific Sportsman, Vol 3, pp. 413-14. Nov. 1906.) KNOWLTON, FRANK H. Fossil plants associated with lavas of the Cascade range. (In U. S. Geological survey, 20th report, 1899, pt. 3, pp. 37-64.) Lake Chelan fishing, by Chelana. (In Pacific Sportsman, Vol. 2, pp. 204-5. April, 1905.) LYMAN, WILLIAM DENISON. Mountaineers’ club makes final dash for Glacier Peak. (In Spokesman-Review, August 21, 1910.) Mountaineers’ club penetrates unknown wilds of Cascade range. (In Spokesman-Review. August 14, 1910.) Indian legends of Mount Rainier. (In the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp. 51-55. Noy. 1909.) A side trip to some of the great snow peaks. (In his Columbia river, chapter 5, pp. 352-73. N. Y. 1909.) 96 The Mountaineer McCULLY, A. WOODRUFF. -Rainier forest reserve. (In Overland Monthly, Vol. 55, pp. 552-60, June, 1910, and Vol. 56, pp. 150-55. Aug. 1910.) MEEKER, EZRA. Trip through the Natchess Pass. (In his Pioneer reminiscences of Puget Sound. Seattle, 1905. pp. 90-157.) MUIR, JOHN. Wild parks and forest reservations of the west. (In Atlantic Monthly, Vol. 81, pp. 15-28. Jan. 18838.) Cascade Mts. pp. 22-26.) REED, KATHERINE. Eastern impressions of the Mountaineers. (In the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp. 43-50. Nov. 1909.) 1 illus. REID, HARRY FIELDING. Glaciers of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. (In International geographic congress report, 8th congress. 1904-1905. p. 492.) ROCKWOOD, ELEANOR RUTH, comp. Additions to the bibliography of the Cascade mountains. (In Mazama, Vol. 3, pp. 78-84. March, 1907. RUSLUNG, JAMES F. Great west and the Pacific slope. N. Y. 1877. pp. 254-60, 269-70. RUSSELL, ISRAEL COOK. Peaks of the Cascades, 1898. (In Her- bertson, descriptive geography of North America, pp. 165-66.) Preliminary paper on the geology of the Cascade mountains in north- ern Washington. (In U. S. geological survey, 20th annual report, 1899, pt. 2, pp. 83-210, pl. 8-20.) SENSENIG, WAYNE. A knapsack trip into Spray park. (In the Mountaineer, Vol. 2, pp. 56-59: Nov. 1909.) 3 illus. SHIELDS, G. O. Cruisings in the Cascades. Chicago, 1889. Treats chiefly of a hunting trip in British Columbia. SMITH, G. O. Geological reconnaisance across the Cascade range near the 49th parallel. 1904. (In U.S. geological survey bulltin 235.) STEVENS, ISAAC INGALLS. Report of explorations for a route for the Pacific railroad. (In U. S. war department, report of explora- tions and surveys .. . to the Pacific ocean, 1853-56. Wash- ington, 1860. Vol. 12, bk. I.) U. S. INTERIOR DEPARTMENT. Report of the acting superintendent of Mount Rainier national park. 1904-09. Washington, 1904-1910. WELLS, H. L. Cascade mountains, 1897. (In Herbertson, descriptive geography of North America, pp. 162-65.) WINTHROP, THEODORE. Canoe and saddle. Boston, 1863. pp. 80- 110. oe eee RTM ERA A Photo by A. H. Cruse MOUNTAINEERS ON THE SUMMIT OF GLACIBR PEAK “SEE AMERICA FIRST” Those who have seen and know the charm of mountain scenery in the Rockies, Cascades, Gold Range and Olympics of Montana, Washington and British Columbia, and have compared them with beauty spots of Europe, say, “See America first.” The American people, through acts of Congress, are preserving to posterity in national parks these northwest mountain sections. Mountaineer clubs and tourist bodies are being organized throughout the United States for the purpose of visiting and exploring the mountains. Along the line of the Great Northern Railway, in Montana and Washington, are two regions of sublime beauty. 1. GLACIER NATIONAL PARK This park located in the Rockies of Montana takes in 1,400 square miles of mountain country, extending north from the main line of the Great Northern Railway to the Canadian boundary. In its confines are over forty living glaciers and a great number of snow capped mountain peaks rising to a height of from seven to ten thousand feet above the sea. From their source in these pinnacled peaks, sparkling cascades dash down the precipitous sides of massive basins of from two to three thousand feet, to the numerous deep, clear, cool mountain lakes, held gem-like in huge settings of rock walled canons and ever- green mountain slopes. 2 LAKE CHELAN REGION This lake lies a short distance north of the main line of the Great Northern Railway in Washington and occupies one of the deepest, if not the deepest, canons on the earth. Granite walls rise above it almost vertically to a height of six thousand or more feet above the water’s edge. The lake itself is upwards of two thousand feet deep, making altogether a great hole in the earth one and one-half miles in depth. The country around the lake for over ten thousand square miles is topped with peaks, ranging from seven to ten thousand feet above sea level, and gridironed with canons, many of which have never been entered or explored. In planning your next vacation trip, bear these two regions in mind. For rates and descriptive booklet, address any Great Northern Agent, or write to W. A. Ross, Assistant Gen. Passenger Agent, Seattle, Wash. C. GC. FILSON Manufacturer of Waterproof {kina English Gabardine, Hunting Coats, Women’s Outing Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Blankets, Wool Batts, Etc. : : : A/l/ kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for Outdoor Life REFERENCE: EVERY MOUNTAINEER PATRON 1011 FIRST AVE., SEATTLE Pte LOG Er $:O-U IND SCENIC POINTS THE PUGET SOUND NAVIGATION CO. HOOD CANAL POINTS SAN JUAN ISLAND POINTS STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA POINTS BELLINGHAM ANACORTES EVERETT EDMONDS PORT TOWNSEND = IRONDALE FAST S. S. INDIANAPOLIS FOR TACOMA DIREcT Leaves Colman Dock 9:00 A.M., 1:00 P.M., 5:00 P.M., 9:00 P.M. GENERAL OFFICES, COLMAN DOCK. MAIN 3993: IND. 736 TRAFFORD HUTESON W. H. REES LESTER A. GRANT HUTESON OPTICAL COMEANY MANU FACTU RING, RE F RACTIN G, DISPEN iSING 1330 SECOND AVE. °°. NEAR UNION ST. Carry a large assortment of Field and Marine Glasses, Prism Binoculars, Aneroid Barometers, Pedometers, Compasses, Goggles and Colored Glasses. SPECIAL TO MOUNTAINEERS: Eyes examined and estimates given for glasses without charge. :::::::::: SUPPLIES for the MOUNTAINEER Many articles of special interest to mountaineers of the Northwest are carried, such as MAPS, CHARTS, GUIDES BAROMETERS COMPASSES, SKETCH- ING MATERIAIS..... PEED EGEAS SES Jowman&Haniord 616-620 First Avenue, Seattle THE MOST PRACTIGAL AND POPULAR LADIES’ OUTING BOOT IS NORMAN & BENNETTS’ — — BROWN BROS. 722 FIRST AVENUE, SEATTLE The Club Secretary has for sale a few copies of THe Mot NTALNEER— Volumes I. and II. Volume I. has been rebound and includes Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4 “DUXBAK” Cravenette Waterproof Clothing Besides its valuable waterproof qualities “Duxbak”’ is both light weight and soft, and wonderfully durable, making it the ideal wear for moun- ~ FOR WOMEN We specialize in “’round the camp” and mountain climbing complete suits for women including woolen shirts, bloomers, leggins, hats and hiking boots, Thermos bottles, pedometers, ete. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ON REQUEST. PIPER & TAFT (INCORPORATED) The Sporting Goods Store THIRD and MARION Agents Agents “DUXBAK” Cravenette Clothing * KAMP-IT”’? Outing Clothing Manufacturers and SE ATTLE TE NT Jobbers. Silk Tents : Made to Order for Mountaineers and and AWNING C e Sportsmen. Sleeping Bags and Tarpaulins. Spring St. and Western Ave., SEATTLE LARGEST STOCK OF Kodaks, Cameras and Supplies ON THE COAST EXPERT FINISHING p 1 2 M arion S ae : Special Privileges to Mountaineers who do their own work NORTHWESTERN PHOTO SUPPLY CO, look. For “ up we te Nukid iy ‘ mae mie | ' oF ' THE MOUNTAINEER MOUNT ADAMS NUMBER V OpE ev US MEE lL Von £991 4 7 es - eB! Le SAE D>. BY THE MOUNTAINEERS SEATTLE, WASHINGTON * Publication Committee | ve FOLD cad Lulie Nettleton, Editor A. H. Albertson, Business Manager Winona Bailey, Historian | Helen Gracie is The Mountaineer Volume Four Nineteen-Eleven LIBRARY NEW York BOTANICAL GARDEN, Published by The Mountaineers Seattle, Washington Copyright 1911 The Mountaineers DEC 26 1911 CONTENTS Gr@CbI —owcsecsiccncesennsedcece caeedececesdseeaceesenenses Flonorable James Bryce..........-..- Notes on Mt. Adams and St. Helens..Professor Henry Landes............ INU Fao CG F100 kee Professor Edmond S. Meanv.... Mt. Adams Outing of 1911...................] Viss Winona Bailey .....-....-...-..- Mountain Wipine 22 ee Professor Edmond S. Meany... Ascent of Mt. Hood by Mountaineers Charles S. Gleason.....0...22..22..-...-.. IV eat yg errr eae ee Sa eee Ae EL AID CKUS OFF 2.2 Climbs in the Southern Selkirks.._...... Edward W. Harnden ............------ Benediction of the Mountains........... Rev. Frederick T. Webb......... The Future of the Rainier National Park ..2.:222.2.2 ASOMEUAG UFTUS eee rr reer All Night on an Active Volcano.......... Charles Albertson ..0....22.-2.00002+-+- With the Alpine Club of Canada... POM MGC eG Or The Olympic National Monument.....Edmond S. Meany-.......---..---- Notes or © tiie te Clays) ere ae ween en INC SU ee ee ee ene ee en ee eee TRSS COUT Et OMT S rs eee eae ac ee a eee ae nee ae Seales erase (Seay Say nyo) 9 as) n\n er serene eee ery ter Pe at re ee eer errr ene eee (GS aitercvrtcuaes hie led DE reat (0) chsh eae eee Plena me i pe Pi Oars ea eee a ee Reports— CSTE 1 1 GSE ee Ets aS Us tag sees: ceca a cece ee ee eee eae Seer ere ae Outine \Com#nitee es oe Oe a ee es ocalavWallcsm Committee 28225) <2 ee ee. Scheduletote local) Walls ae ee ee Page i, PAZ fe? LIBRAZ NEW YO BOTANIC GARDE; ILLUSTRATIONS ING emReA CE air eee re ee eek re Ne rece Pee one eT ahs Plate White Bark Pine (Pinus Contorta) ...... Bere Meee EA 5 ae Plate Snow Bridge at Killing Creek ............... a eS ee Oe Plate Pack rain iGressines cavasGlacier oni dirs Northi= 222 Plate |Gcatvtel aXe. G oret end bovine sei a tee nae Se oe Eo a eee Plate IVT feeesl OO Clee eee igs eh Ss ed eden eves Pee Plate Syvirmmange: Cowes NY [ine er Koyo ya le eae eae 6 A ee Nee eee ey ee Plate Elirote Glacier GNUBGENOO Ci) Rese ee eae ee ee ee Plate [ced Columns oneeliobye Glacier. sms ree ae eee Plate SEA Tits Cleo ck Tage aes ce rey ee a Plate Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground... seen Plate Nite Rainiters SIN Oa Cite err eet en tere Seer er ee ee ee Plate NitaaRanmi ety trom Sprayer ba Tks. cesses sere ee rece nee ce Tee Plate ANS crit cAMMDY sed TL UE Bs O MMM AT UN cL Wel oestrone ae eae Plate Mt. Biddle with Glacier and Lake McArthu.......................--.-..- Plate Mire erlaber my ima Ubeakcstan ns. epee ee St oe late View from side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke I NIGENGVONG he eects tee A ee aE Ne Sees Fes ee ie eae Plate Everett Mountaineerssom Mit Pilehtack: 222.22 e cence eseeenceeseet Plate WWiloyee anes nnaveccr ney ovate Mite, JANG Ei NUK) eee tee etre rear Sn ee ee ae Plate IRerea Keto Fl oLon de. SSYOCOYOR TALI kee ee eee cece ae ern ee ee Plate SHcerepay rim Zl WN Moyibo neh al INCE GUO) eee ee eee eee eee ee Plate fitting, (LE (oyoY a NI ok mes eet Peep PN ane ND en kee nae er Plate uigeqaintezabatetermsy phat (Cloke 180 lel aj, seeeee eee gece ee Ree ee eee ee Plate Snow Cornice above Klickitat Glacier, Mt. Adams.... ............. Plate Pry dicen URES Yes Ey wi] 2 oe ee SR ee ee ne eo Plate Mountaineers on a Steep Slope of Mt. Adams...................-.-.... Plate Onethemeoadmn ieamien National (Parke... -o..cceenes eae ceseeeaaee Plate Plate I. Two Lakes near the summit of Lava Glacier in the center, Lyman Glacier on the ht beyond the cleaver. The Mountaineers Adams and Lava Glaciers. MT. ADAMS— North side of Mt. Adams from above the Cascade Mts. by A. H. Denman left, Adams Glacier to the rig and A. H. Barnes made the ascent up the cleaver between the Greetings: From the Gonurahle Janes Bryce— British Ambassador tu the United States Galutation: Ue has leg of OO Pes a satan ees Binet Jutte 7 bo fritet, Ctfone Cod, 7 Keak ie ae a Or a — ate The Mountaineer Volume Four Seattle, Washington Nineteen-Eleven NOTES ON ADAMS AND ST. HELENS BOT AL Pror. Henry LANDES Mt. Adams For a number of years I have been an ardent admirer of Mt. Adams, but always at lone range. Not until nearly the close of the summer that is just past did I have the oppor- tunity of a more intimate acquaintance. In this instance dis- tance may have lent enchantment, but familiarity certainly bred respect and not contempt. In coming up the Yakima val- ley by train, I have always sat by the vindow, getting ev- ery possible glimpse of the beautiful and symmetrical mouwn- tain as it rose grand- ly at times above the eray and bare hills of the foreground. Looked at from a a thousand vantage points to the east- ward, the hoary-head- ed old voleano is a conspicuous land- mark on the western horizon. It rises head and shoulders above the labyrinth of mountains which hedge it in on the Photograph by H. V. Abel A SECTION OF ADAMS GLACIER 6 The Mountaineer west and north. Its majestic pile, with its seeming ambition of forming a connecting link between the earth and the sky, is at once a source of awe and inspiration to the mountaineer. On a clear day the view from the top of Adams is well worth the climb. In asecendine the mountain from the south it is not long before Mt. Hood appears as a very near neigh- bor. In a little while, when the beautiful dome of Hood ap- pears at its best, one is dehehted to find that in the same view Jefferson has come prominently into the range of vision, to the left of Hood and 50 miles beyond. SadaL “sali b=hoNIJaNo as wabwuw BT ve aise jv '4W ATLL The Mountaineer 19 side by a glacial torrent dashing out from the gorge of a miniature box canyon. A little frequented spot it appeared to be. Before we left, by unanimous vote and with much en- thusiasm, it was named MeColl Basin, after our new Scotch friend who had led us to it. We were now on the north slope of Goat Rocks and, to reach the pass above, the horses would have to cross a glacier, so volunteers were again called for to lead them. They took a somewhat different route from the rest of the party and at noon as we lunched on an opposite hillside we saw in the ile EAE err aoe Photograph by Carlyle Ellis McCOLL’S BASIN distance the long thin line of animals and their leaders wind- ing their zig-zag course now up along the side of Tieton gla- cier, then back and forth on a seemingly perpendicular moun: tain side. Sometimes they would stop for such a long time that we feared the trail had proved too dangerous, but again creep- ing slowly on they were lost to view over the pass before the rest of the party were well upon the snow slope. Boots had fortunately been well calked the night before, for the slope was steep and steps had to be made carefully. In company formation with Leader Belt ahead, a lieutenant in front of each company of eight or nine and a eaptain behind to watch and give instructions, we moved slowly across the wide snow-field 2() The Mountaineer with the strange rocky pinnacles above, the smooth, brilliantly colored slopes of Tieton Peak ahead, and the valley dropping steep away below. The pass reached at 7000 feet, another fieid of soft snow in which we sank knee-deep took us into the valley of the South Fork of the Tieton and we began to look for Surprise Lake, which we were told was to be our campine- eround for the night. Perhaps there is a Surprise Lake, but our surprise was to come suddenly, near dusk, upon a camp- fire with Mr. Carr beside it and a bountiful hot dinner, to which we did speedy tribute, stopping not to remove grease- paint, black, white, or red. Here, on a bleak hillside, a place where only sheep could find subsistence, was the cache of six- teen hundred pounds of food left there a few weeks earlier by the packers. A steep climb of eight hundred feet brought us to a ridge overlooking the magnificent cirque at the head of the Khekitat. Skirting this we found ourselves again below the sharp scaling spires of the Goat Rocks. This passing of the south side and the climb the day before on the north furnished our only close acquaintance with this interesting group of mountains, a region little visited and well worth a summer’s outing. As we lunehed on the rocks before crossing to western slopes near Cispus Pass Mr. Bertsechi, forest ranger of that district, met us and for four days was our friend and adviser, guiding by shorter routes to the great mountain, through the region of the ghost trees. Among them a little spring like an oasis in the desert furnished site for a ranger’s eabin known as Short Trail Camp and here we spent the night. Next camp was at the Indian tepee on the vast table-land that slopes from Adams on the north and west. Here the Indian, perhaps for ages, has eamped in huckleberry season beside a clear, cold stream under the very shadow of the mountain. On the fifteenth day at noon, we reached the mountain camp, a typical little meadow-basin on Killing Creek on the north side of Mt. Adams at 6000 feet. Above was the lava ridge on which we were to climb between the Adams and the Lava glaciers. The commissary stream came leaping down in white spray under a thin snow-bridge, turned a right angle and dashed on to the valleys. On every hand were tiny lakelets furnishing fine laundry and swimming pools. Trees fringed The Mountaineer 21 the glade except towards the mountain, where snow banks lined the basin rim, a site that rivalled Buck Creek Pass, the permanent camp of the Glacier Peak outing. The afternoon was spent in preparations for the long anticipated circus, the stupendous spectacle that formed the climax of the fun of camp-fire programs. The evening enter- tainments of this outing were somewhat curtailed because of leneth of mareh and lack of time in camp, but who that heard them will ever forget the tales that were told, the instructive Photograph by Fred Q. Gorton CAMP IN THE GHOST FOREST talks on photographs and stars, the history, the legends, and the verses of our president, the orchestra of our musical brethren, the sones that shortened the miles or relieved a mo- ment of perplexity? Every Sunday there was a beautiful, rest- ful service of worship with pulpit and sounding board of alpine firs and pews on grassy slopes. It was decided when the climb was made to break camp at Killing Creek, send all supphes and dunnage by pack train around the western flank with any who did not care to go with the climbers over the mountain. On Monday, July 31, the rising call sounded before daylight and with hasty packing of dunnage and still hastier breakfast the whistle blew and fifty- ee oO The Mountaineer two people lned up ready for the start. At four-fifty we marched out of camp. In nine hours and twenty minutes we stood on the summit of Mt. Adams, 12,307 feet above the sea. No difficulties were encountered at any point. For nearly five thousand feet the climb was on lava rock affording good foot- ing, then almost a mile across a snow-field of easy grade to within three hundred feet of the top where the snow piled steep and dome-like. The day was clear only in the upper regions. Below, a smoky haze filled all the valleys and hid the lesser peaks. The cones of Mt. Raimer and Mt. St. Helens were clear above it all day, and when the top was reached Mt. Hood appeared in the southern heavens, a while peak with no apparent base upon the earth. The time on top was short. After the usual picture-taking by companies and groups, the flag was unfurled and one verse of America sung and with a cirele around the east end to look down on the head of the great Klickitat Glacier, we dropped over the south side to find the Mazama record box chained to a little rocky ledge. To open this, examine its assortment of ecards and papers, and then sign the record book took all too long, and the leader’s face grew anxious as he announced the hour and the possible distance from camp. The descent on the south was rock-work; an occasional pocket of snow gave a brief rest from the rocks, but we were too far to the west for the fine coasting slopes, and the best sliding we had was a sort of bump-the-bumps performance. Sharp eyes kept a look-out for the pack train or the friendly smoke of the camp-fire we knew would be built somewhere below. None appeared. At six o'clock a trail was reached that soon led into another much traveled trail showing the tracks of many horses. Dark com- ine on seemed to double the miles, but at nine a cheerful whistle announced a friend with the message, “Camp only half a mile away. There a hot dinner was waiting, and hands ready to serve it. The members of the party who had gone around the west side had not only walked nearly twenty miles over hard trail but had selected a camping spot for everybody and carried each one’s dunnage to it. Never were conquerors more warmly welcomed, never did they find more preparations for their com- fort. This place was Morrison Creek ranger’s station. Next day we rested there, and the report of the climb was sent out to the papers. Plate XXYV. Photograph by Charles Albertson INDIAN TEPEE CAMP Plate XXVI. ae ne MOUNTAINEERS ON A STEEP SLOPE ABOUT FIFTY FEET BELOW THE SUMMIT OF MT. ADAMS Photograph by Charles Albertson Plate IV. Photograph by H. B. HINMAN FIRST BASIN IN GOAT ROCKS AFTER LEAVING McCOLL’S BASIN Plate V. Photograph by C. R. Corey THE PACK TRAIN CROSSING LAVA GLACIER ON TRIP NORTH. ca) SS) The Mountaineer The following day Miss Lulie Nettleton, Mr. Gorton and Mr. Bennett made a second climb of the mountain, leaving Morrison Creek camp at four fifty-five, following the even snow slopes of the south side and reaching the summit at eleven. They spent two hours on top, then coasting most of the way, came down more than five thousand feet in forty-five minutes, returned to our eamp of the night before for an hour’s rest and joined the main party at Trout Lake thirteen miles farther on, coming in just as camp-fire was over. Camp was three miles out from the settlement at Trout Lake. m a beautiful grove of pine and larch in the lava cave region ‘he largest cave visited appeared from the surface as a great nole in a heap of rocks. Two ladders led down into it and then with the help of pitch pine knots, we followed over sharp rocks a vaulted passage wide and high for several hun- dred feet to where it branched into smaller archways. This region is full of caves which seem like great bubbles in a stream of lava that once flowed down from Mt. Adams to the Columbia river. In the vicinity of our camp another smaller cave was found and explored and it was said two hundred others had been counted. So numerous are they and their openings so hidden in the grass and rocks that a horseback rider at night is in danger. Water has seeped into some and frozen into great pipe-organ columns or stalactites and stalagmites of ice that the heat of summer never overcomes. The trail from the ice cave to Oklahoma ranger’s station, where the next night’s halt was made, was one recently built and led across a ridge into the valley of the Little White Sal- mon through beautiful forests of white pine and fir. The milder character of the country made the trip of the last few days seem more like local walks than the real mountaineering of the summer’s outing. By this time, too, our company was much reduced because a number had gone home early from Trout, Lake. The last day the trail widened into the road, the foot log into the strone bridge, farm houses were passed at intervals until finally the whistle of a locomotive was heard and we knew the solitude of the hills was ours no more. At a sharp bend in the road, high on the hillside we caught the first glimpse of the mighty Columbia. The Mountaineer Rising eall was sounded early Saturday morning and break- fast was over in time to give the ladies a chance to do their first shopping in three weeks before the train left for Park- dale, twenty-three miles up the Hood river valley. Luneh was served from our own supplies at Parkdale, elevation 1800 feet, and at one o'clock we started on a twelve- mile hike along the wagon road up the north side of Mt. Hood. It was hot and the road was dusty and a steady uphill pull, but three weeks spent in the open and one hundred and seventy- five miles of trampine mountain trails had made the party “fit.” The first five miles was among the fruit farms of the upper val- ley, the last seven through dense pine forest to camp about 600 feet below timber line near Cloud Cap Inn, a typical sum- mer resort hotel at an elevation of 5800 feet. Sunday was spent resting for the climb on the morrow, studying the route up the mountain, photographing the peak with and without a cloudeap, talking with Miller, the mountairt euide who frankly admitted that a party of Mountaineers did not need his services, and in observing the guests of the Inn and permitting them to observe us to our mutual edification, khaki suits, calked boots, alpenstocks and tanned faces making a striking contrast with white flannels, tennis shoes, parasols and lly white complexions. We invited the guests to visit our camp and they proved to be “good fellows all”, showed great interest in our sleeping- bags and camp equipment and said they enjoyed our camp-fire songs and the stories we told of our long hike. Mt. Hood stands in the dooryard of Cloud Cap Inn, or just over the fence, and towers over 5000 feet above it. Sweeping down directly toward the Inn les the magnificent Elliott Glacier. By 4:30 o’clock Monday morning we had had breakfast and sixteen of the party started on the climb. Our route was along the east side of Elliott Glacier to the summit of Cooper’s Spur three miles away and 2800 feet above camp. We then turned to the right and climbed the steep snow-field at the head of Newton Clark Glacier to Crescent Crevasse where the slope became steeper and reached an angle of sixty-five degrees which it maintained to the summit. From this point we availed ourselves of the rope 1400 feet long anchored near 28 The Mountaineer the summit each season by the guides, and climbing hand over hand, reached the summit, elevation 11,225 feet, at 12 o'clock. The steep climb was a novel experience for Mountaineers accustomed to climb the massive snow-covered domes of our Washington mountain peaks, and when we reached the sum- mit we found not snow and ice, but bare voleanie rock. The view of the Willamette valley on the west was ob- secured by heavy clouds, but to the north and east was spread the beautiful panorama of the Columbia valley, while beyond were miles and miles of Washington wheat-fields, and on the northern horizon stood our old friend Mt. Adams upon whose mighty snow cap, 12,307 feet above the sea, we had stood just one week before. Beyond Adams, above the clouds, was the summit of old Rainier, 14,526 feet high. To the east and south- east through broken clouds we caught glimpses of the great plains of Eastern Oregon, while in the south rose the pinnacle of Mt. Jefferson and beyond the Three Sisters. After lunch on the summit under the lea of a pile of rock to escape the biting wind and an hour spent in photographing the scenery upon our memory and ourselves with the camera, we began the descent backward down the rope hand under hand, then coasted down a mile of snow slope and were in camp by 3:30, happy that we could carve the names of two mountains upon our alpenstocks for the year 1911. Tuesday we walked twelve miles to Parkdale, took the train to Hood River and the steamer down the Columbia to Vancouver, and reached Seattle Wednesday morning, August 9. FITT, Plate Urry Mabel IF raph by Photo ro. LLOOD ON R LACIE ‘ 1 ( ELLIOT The Mountaineer 29 MEANY As valiant as the eagle in his heaven, As steadfasi as the iron rocks, hard riven; As warm as sunshine after rain, as sweet as sleep is after pain, As golden as the sunset grain, as peace upon the heart had lain; Refreshing as the wood’s wind after showers, Or strong as mother love—or mountain towers: Yea, even so is he—and he is ours, And so, to him, these wild and wind-blown flowers. A. H. A. The Alountaineer EDMOND STEPHEN MEANY, M. L. President of the Mountaineers. The Alountaineer 31 *CLIMBS IN THE SOUTHERN SELKIRKS Epwarp W. Harnpren “Hail Columbia!” That is what I could have appropriately sung, even in Canada, on the Fourth of July this year, as the “Klahowya™” laboriously foreed her shallow breadth against the winding current of the ninety-mile stretch from Golden, on the Canadian Pacific road, to the head waters of the Columbia river. The visit of 1910 with Mr. Herbert W. Gleason to the snow and ice clad sources of the s ream, as told to readers of the Mountaineer last year, had been fascinating but disap- pointing. Like Moses, we kad seen but had not entered upon the promised land. Our trip to the head of two of the western tributaries, Toby and Horse Thief creeks, rising in the very crest of the southern Selkirks, had afforded us glorious Alpine views of unclimbed and almost unknown peaks; but protracted forest fires had enforced an idleness which had left us in bad climbing condition and had so shortened our time that, instead of leaping joyously from crag to crag, we could simply scurry about and size up what we would like to do another year. In- stead of sitting haughtily aloft, “hke Jupiter on Olympus, looking down from afar upon men’s lives,” we had simply “Walked right in, and turned around, And walked right out again.” Mr. Gleason’s plans for 1911 did not permit of a resumption of activities in the region; but I had greatly interested two x Boston mountain-climbine friends—Mr. George D. Emerson, a fellow Mountaineer and Appalachian, and his wife—and they were awaiting me on the morning of July 5 at the head of navigation. A hurried breakfast together was followed by a lightning change of “duds” and throwing together of dunnage, and we, accompanied by Mr. Charles D. Ellis of Windermere, a climbing companion of last year, were packed and off for Toby Creek. *A continuation of Mr. Harnden’s “A New Mountain Country” in the Mountaineer of November, 1910. cas) The Mountaineer We first visited the Paradise Basin, whence we started the climb of Hammond last vear, and where our Recording Angel, Mrs. Emerson, performed the rather remarkable celestial feat of coasting down into Paradise. But the North Fork of Toby Creek, somewhat farther on and about eighteen miles from Athelmer, the head of navigation on the river, was the scene of our first real work. We intended not only to climb, but to size up the country topographically and otherwise as well as time would permit. We were our own guides, packers, cooks and dish-washers—no trouble with the servant problem! Mrs. Emerson, besides acting as Recording Angel of the expedition, planned to do a little botanizing; Mr. Emerson, who is an en- gineer, carried a light transit, and we had ice axes and rope and the best procurable aneroids. Incidentally, better measure- ment and aneroiding showed that our estimated altitudes of last year over-shot the mark; but it still remains true that the southern Selkirks equal the northern in height and surpass them in Alpine grandeur. A few minor tramps and serambles about Paradise Basin and our North Fork camp put us in fairly good condition. We had planned a second ascent of Mount Hammond—first as- cended last year by Mr. Ellis—by a new, and it seemed to me more interesting, route, which I had then observed as a possi- bility. Mr. Ellis was anxious to join us on this second ascent, but was ealled from camp by business, and while awaiting his return the Emersons and I packed on our backs our sleeping bags and provisions for several days and made a trip to the head of North Fork. The magnificent glacier scene here afforded from the high eastern slopes of the Fork, I referred to last year. A summit above us, to the east, which seemed to offer a magnificent view-point, attracted our attention, and this summit furnished us with a splendid day’s climb and a first ascent. The combined snow gully and sharp rock arete work gave us a good try-out and test of condition. Mount Catherine, as we named the peak, is from 10,000 to 10.300 feet in height, subject to later calculations, bears on its north face, overlooking Boulder Creek, a series of splendid, precipitous, hanging glaciers, and offers one of the finest Alpine panoramas imaginable. Not far away, to the east, was Mt. Hammond, while to the west, tier on tier, rose the magnificent peaks of the main southern Selkirk range, with some of which Plate IX. Photograph by Edward W. Harnden ICE COLUMNS ON TOBY GLACIER The Mountaineer 33 we were to hobnob—and hobnail—later. As far as the eye could see, from south to north, the landscape fairly bristled with the typical elittering, crevassed glacier fields and jag@ed summits of the Selkirks, which, while perhaps not averaging quite as high as the neighboring Rockies, have much finer ice- fields (excepting such northern ice-fields in the Rockies as the Columbia and Washmawapta), due to greater precipitation, and are more Alpine in character. We returned to our lower camp in good shape for the Mount Hammond climb. Charhe had not returned, and we had to go without him. A short distance above our camp Ifammond Creek—so named by us—enters North Fork from the north. The Emersons and I packed in an almost straight course up this creek, camping near the base of the west side of the moun- tain, preparatory to attempting the chmb by a route which had seemed to me last year a particularly interesting one. The steep and direct rise up Hammond Creek from our North Fork camp, with its elevation of about 4300 feet, to the base camp for our Hammond climb, at 6700 feet, afforded an unusually striking illustration of changes from temperate to sub-aretic conditions. The trees rapidly dwindled to serub, and the character of the flowers, which were beautiful and profuse, changed with every few hundred feet of rise. There is no lost ground by this route, and it makes a far more interest- ing climb, technically and from a sceme point, than the route of last vear from Paradise Basin. From our camp, in a strip of woods overlooking from the left the snow gully at the head of Hammond Creek, we could clearly figure out our probable route of the next day, when the bright promise of the evening was fulfilled. Outlined against the early morning sky line, on July 14, to the northeast stood the steep rock and snow profile of Mount Hammond. We knew that this aréte that stood out against the sky looked down on the farther side vertically to Boulder Creek, and it was by this ragged Boulder Creek aréte that we planned to ascend until we reached the bastioned crown just below the summit. A sharp rise of about two hours, scrambling over broken rock slopes and up steep snow gullies, brought us to the aréte, and careful climbing up the unstable rock bridge, with its tremendous views into the yawning Boulder Creek abyss at our left, finally brought us to the crown. This is composed 34 The Mountaineer of tremendous cubical rock bastions, pierced by occasional gaps, Where erosion of the rotten rock by frost and elacial action has left rough, narrow, sharp V-shaped chimneys. The first gap had seemed impracticable to Mr. Ellis last vear, and at first so impressed us; but there were three of us, we had a 200d rope, and, avoiding the snow-filled depression, into which broken rock has a habit of falling, and taking to the side roeks at the left, a half hour’s delicate and careful work—in which our Recording Angel, a novice in Alpine work, showed splendid: nerve placed us at the top of the bastion, whence a short scramble brought us to the top of the shattered rock cone which forms the summit. Our calculations this year dropped the summit to about 10,400 to 10,600 feet however, well up to that of the highest northern Selkirks; and subject to later refinement—an elevation, the glorious view afforded of the Columbia valley to the east, with the Rockies rising beyond, and of our neighboring erest chain of Selkirks to the west, we can never forget. Our North Fork plans were now consummated, and our next base of operations was Earl Grey Pass, at the head of the main Toby Creek, as described in last year’s Mountaineer. This is a pass leading over into the west Kootenay region, and was first crossed by a Mr. Wells, of Boston. A day and a half’s packing from the North Fork camp landed us there ready for business, camped in a little park reminiscent of Rainier, surrounded by erythronium and giant anemones, the dying gasp of the expiring timber still leaving, in addition to the Lyell’s larches, fir balsam for beds. About us was one of the noblest panoramas conceivable, suggestive, as I said last year, of the view from the Gorner Grat. The sharp, high, apparently inaccessible peak pictured in plate III last year, lying south of the Pass, had haunted my dreams during the winter. I knew that it had three apparently impossible sides. The fourth, lying in back, I had never seen, but | had faith that it would prove feasible. So on the promis- ing morning of July 18, we started out to circumvent the moun- tain and see whether I was correct. The party consisted of the Emersons, Mr. Ellis, who had now rejoined us, and myself. We dropped from the Pass, which is at a level of about 7400 feet, to the Toby Glacier, which hes at the head of Toby Creek and is its source, and traveled the long gradually rising curve The Mountaineer 35 of the glacier for several miles, starting in a southerly direction and gradually swinging to the west as we cut the are of a circle around the peak. As we rounded a sharp, knife-lhke rock shoul- der of the mountain, that unknown south side came into view, and there seemed a reasonable chance that the mountain was ours. Instead of precipices where in places the snow and ice eould barely maintain a foothold, we found the hollow on this side filled with a steep, winding glacier tributary to the Toby Glacier, with névé and snow-field above and a rock ridge at the top, and all apparently negotiable with proper precaution. There were the usual problems of avoiding crevasses on the lower levels and looking out for rocks above; but all went well, and one o'clock in the afternoon of a splendid day found us the first persons on the summit of Mount Gleason (named after Mr. Herbert W. Gleason), one of the finest peaks of the south- ern Selkirks. We lunehed and enjoyed the curiously detached and tremendous sensation afforded by a view of a chaotic ice and rock world from a peak one side of which swept down thousands of feet in a sheer precipice below our feet. Our aneroiding placed the height at about 10,600 feet, and rough triangulation from Toby Glacier, where we subsequently ran a base line, gave a height of 10,800 feet. The summit rock seemed to be largely granitic, which probabiy accounts for the peak’s retaining its sharp, Matterhorn-lke shape. The running of a base line on Toby Glacier and a trip through the ice columns of the “Temple of Karnak,” which we threaded from end to end, on subsequent days, brought our Toby Creek work to a elose, and we then hied ourselves to Horse Thief Creek, another west to east tributary of the Co- lumbia river, lying to the north of Toby Creek. Mr. Ellis had to leave the party again, on account of business. Horse Thief Creek, in its 45-mile length, heads up in another interesting part of the erest range. Outfitting for the mountaineer and hunter is facilitated by Thomas Starbird’s delightful Mountain Valley Ranch, about thirteen miles up the ereek from Wilmer. This ereek, in its variety of scenic features canyons, hoodoos, steep mountain side walls, unsurpassed waterfalls and its culminating magnificent Alpine scenery at the head—far surpasses even the beautiful Toby Creek. Goats fairly run riot on the mountains about the valley, there 1s an 36 The Mountaineer occasional grizzly to make things interesting, and at the ranch there are saddle horses and delightful quarters and surround- ines for the non-strenuous tourist. To a camp 28 miles above the ranch the Emersons and I packed by horse: and from this camp we did some minor tramp- ing and chmbing, exploring what we called Goat Creek, a nor- thern tributary of Horse Thief. We bueked brush up the west side of the creek and came down the more open roeky eastern bank, following the stream closely and getting superb views at close range of magnificent falls, as the stream tumbled in a continuous series of cascades down the steep mountain side, having their source in a lake of marvelous beauty. Above this camp to the head of the creek and the foot of the great Starbird Glacier there was no trail for horses ready, although the government has interested itself in the section and a horse trail was cut up to us before we came out; so, with the assistance of the trail-cutters, we packed up on our backs ten‘s, sleeping bags and food for about ten days. We chose, in a flat bordering the main creek and about two miles below the glacier, an ideal camping site. A delightful little mossy brook of the purest water ran before our tents; at hand was a good supply of fir balsams. “The beds were made, the room was fit, By punctual eve the stars were lit.” Back of us a wild, jagged, vertical cliff up-reared; across the valley three wonderful falls plunged down the mountain side; and at the head of the creek, in full view, was the lower stretch of the noble, curving Starbird Glacier, with its back- eround of snow and ice peaks, dominated by the great summit which we hoped to climb. A reconnaissance was, of course, first in order, and this we planned from a minor peak across the glacier to the north. So that we need not retrace our steps and the climb might not be too long from our eamp, the Emersons and I planned a possible three-days’ expedition from camp, packing on our backs sleep- ing bags and provisions, devoting the first day to reconnaissance and locating a base camp, the second day to the climb, with the possibility of returning to the main creek camp the second night, but being prepared to be out a third day. uosdaug “dD The Mountaineer The reconnaissance was successful and interesting. Our minor 9000-foot peak enabled us to look across at the summit we had in mind and to lay out alternative routes, and offered glorious views of the snow and ice world about us. The Star- bird Glacier, which stretched its immense leneth in a horseshoe beneath us, is perhaps twelve miles long, possibly the largest in the Selkirks. On every hand were immense ice fields, while hanging glaciers, due to the peculiarly precipitous nature of the mountain walls, abounded. From one such, over an almost vertical mountain precipice across Horse Thief Creek, we wit- nessed within ten minutes of each other two tremendous ava- lanches, the shattered ice streamine thousands of feet down the mountain side in cascades and finally debouching on to the great glacier itself. Some goats also passed in review at rea- sonably close range. Making camp at the nearest point to our peak where wood seemed available, we turned in, prepared to climb the next day. We started long before sunrise, the route upon which we had determined lying over the surface of the glacier for several miles, swinging from south to west to the summit of a pass over into west Kootenay, then turning sharply to the left and fol- lowing a long “switchback” glacier, which skirted our peak on the north side, to an ice and snow slope which, with broad eross crevasses and a final bergschrund, rose steeply and direct- ly to the rock-ecapped summit. An alternative route, if this should prove impracticable, involved the attack of a rock comb from a point near the pass and working along this comb to a high snow-field, assailing the summit from the rear. It soon became clear that the elements were against us. Heavy clouds and mists formed, and did not break away with the rising sun. We crossed the pass and got some grand views of the lower West Kootenay mountains, but our summit re- mained obscured and weather conditions were threatening. Finally, we were reluctantly obliged to give up the climb. Fate had other knocks in store. Shortly after returning to our main camp a telegram came up the line ealling the Emersons home; and one of the trail-cutters, Ernest Rafford, a former Maine guide and woodsman, who joined us and wished to participate in a second attempt on the mountain, had not been in camp five minutes before he had cut himself well into the ankle bone with an axe. My comrades sadly departed, say- 38 The Mountaineer ing that they would try to send up somebody who would like to climb the peak, while I waited a week in camp, taking care of the unlucky chopper and hoping against hope. And it rained almost continuously in the valley—and snowed on the moun- tains! At last, on August 10, the weather cleared beautifully, and the little angels who preside over the destinies of suffi- ciently persistent mountaineers—and other mortals—smiled. Towards evening, the jineline of bells told me that the horse trail to our camp had been completed, and Frank Butterfield, superintendent of the Starbird ranch, with Jack Poorman, of Idaho, a trail-cutter, and Mitchell Coffin, of Brooklyn, appeared on the scene. The hoodoo was broken. Five o'clock the next morning saw Coffin, Poorman, and myself well on our way up the glacier, Butterfield being unable to join us beeause another trail-cutter had been injured and had to be taken down into the valley. The fates never granted more beautiful weather for elimb- ine—although I was afraid our magic three meght be broken when twelve goats gazed simultaneously down upon us from a neighboring hillside and sane their Lorelei sone to Poorman, who was tempted to go back and get his gun. We managed to avoid actually getting into crevasses in the glacier and switchback, although occasionally a leg would disappear, and some anchoring and broad jumping was neces- sary; but the most study was required on the final sharp rise to the summit. A week’s heavy fresh snow covered the old ice and snow on the steep slope, increasing the danger from avalanches, and in negotiating the slope bad cross crevasses “olory holes,” as Jack called them—had to be dealt with. For- tunately, however, the new snow had avalanehed almost from the top in a narrow strip, and we zigzagged in and close to this strip, made good steps and kept the rope taut. Above us, too, slightly to the right as we neared the top, was a projecting hummock which would probably have divided an avalanche from above, and we could, if threatened, quickly line up below it and brace. But nothing untoward occurred. Even the final bergeschrund, which we thought might cause us some work and study, and which we were prepared to go down into and up the other side, offered a splinter of a bridge which bore us safely across; and, surmounting the final 15 or 20-foot vertical The Mountaineer 39 snow wall with a straight frontal attack, digging in with fingers and toes, I found myself, at 1:30 o'clock p. m., within twenty feet of the highest rocks on the peak, thus justifying our careful reconnaissance, for we had not actually seen the summit since long before leaving the main glacier. Up swarmed the others, and at a signal the highest rock felt its first touch of human feet simultaneously given. Our sizing up had been accurate even as to the time necessary for different parts of the climb, and we returned to camp shortly after 6 p. m., as I had told the boys we probably would. We intended to name the peak, the elevation of which is about 10,200 feet, Mt. Thompson, after the early explorer, but I have since found that there is another Mt. Thompson, so a different name must be given. The view was perhaps the most superb of the summer. The immense curve of the Starbird Glacier, the striking contrast offered by the snow and ice fields and rugged summits of the West Kootenay ranges, with the deep, green, intervening valley, and the tremendous Alpine sweep along the crest of the main range to the south, to the head of Toby Creek and beyond, and to the Spiilimacheen Mountains in the north, combined in a wonderful, glorious panorama. All hail to Horse Thief and Toby Creeks! And there are other creeks as little known, leading to unclimbed summits of these, the noblest of the Selkirks. There is an urgent eall to the mountaineer and hunter, and it will not long remain un- answered. Stevenson says: “We are not content to pass away entirely from the scenes of our delight; we would leave, if but in gratitude, a pillar and a legend.” We have built our cairns, and this is the story. And there, awaiting other explorers and climbers, are “the hills, Flashing the morn abroad From their iron crests, which took The rose of creation’s dawn— Themselves the earliest book, On whose carven crags, deep-drawn Stands written the will of God.” 40 The Mountaineer THE BENEDICTION OF THE MOUNTAINS Rev. Frepertck T. Wess The treasured memory of twelve years’ residence near to the very heart of the Rockies and nine years in daily sight of the splendid Cascades and the wild Olympics and the amazing “Mountain that was God”, with many a vacation hour spent in their suggestive and serene solitudes, has convinced me that mountains have a very distinet individuality. That is a truism. But they have more than this; something like a very live and majestic personality. It is scarcely a metaphor to sav: we sit at their feet and learn, that we commune with them, that our hearts go out to them and that they give answer back to us. Have you not felt as if these pine-clad, snow-garmented peaks were wrapping you in their great friendship? You do not feel that they are standing aloof coldly awaiting your homage; they take you to themselves, into their grandeur. They impart their strength; you warm their loneliness; and in the union of mountain and man you realize your oneness with the great universe itself, and are in toueh with the throb- bing soul of God. I believe the very presence of the mountains is a benedie- tion. And so is the mountain’s altitude. Whether he will or not, it lifts one up; first the eye, to scale its sides, and then the soul. All who love the mountains or look upon them are not actual mountain climbers, but the vision of them all moves to the skies, of necessity, under the mountain's leadership. And their example! Is not that, too, a benediction? All the seeret of life is with them. How responsive they are to the creative agencies of nature, still at work. This is their submission to the discipline of life. The pink glow of sunset is the mountain's gratitude for the light of the passing day in as a brave which they have bathed. They stand immovable man may, upon the granite basis of his faith, while the heat and the storm and the slow erosion of the rocks are doing for The Mountaineer {1 their form what the storm and stress of experience are doing for the human soul; moulding it into shape. It is so firm and true,—the mountain, yet it is not ungra- ciously stoical. Its varied moods are the token of its sympathy with the changing processes which are bringing it to the per- fection of a more finished beauty. And all the while it keeps up its ministry, through the fertilizing streams, to the needs of the green and fruitful valleys below and so to the people who dwell there. “The Lord bless thee and keep thee; the Lord make his face to shine upon thee and bless thee; the Lord lift up the light of His countenance upon thee and give thee peace.” May we not so read the benediction of the mountains? AT SUNSET $2 The Mountaineer THE FUTURE OF THE RAINIER NATIONAL PARK ASAHEL CURTIS The most pressing need in mountain affairs in Washington at the present time is the improvement and extension of the roads of the Mt. Rainier National Park. The mountain is attracting wide attention and people are coming from afar to visit it. If they find the mountain accessible they will tell their friends about their trip and the mountain will receive the best form of publicity. If, on the other hand, they find there are no roads or only one fair one, they will prob- ably so state and by so doing dissuade many from a visit. Now is the time to go at this matter with all the vim that can be shown, and the Mountaineers should be the ones to lead in this work. They should prove that they know what is needed in mountain work in the state and not leave this important work for the commercial bodies of the two cities. The work is broader than the purposes of commercial bodies, the park is a national one and not a Seattle, Tacoma, or even a Washington one. Therefore the work in behalf of the park should be national. The senators and representatives of Washington may work for a system cf roads, but they must have the support of others before the necessary bills will pass. The elub should organize a campaign of publicity, get the eastern mountain clubs to help and have them take the matter up with their senators and representatives, urging the passage of this bill. Eleven thousand people passed through the park entrance last season. The majority of these would be willing to write to their representatives at Washington in favor of a bill to improve the roads. They know that they need improve- ment. President Taft was able to reach Paradise Park, but he learned just what was needed to make the road a success. The first thing that should be decided upon is a plan of action that can be followed for years, and all parts of the park opened. No money can be appropriated for roads until surveys are made, therefore those surveys should be started the coming summer. Copyright Asahel Curtis Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground southwest side of the mountain. A survey has been made for a road into this park from the present road to Longmire Springs. This road should be constructed as soon as possible to afford a relief to the crowds now going to Paradise Park. This road would also open up Van Trump Park, which lies be- tween Paradise and Indian Henry’s. The Mountaineer 13 There is need of a road on the north side as well as the south side. This can go from the present road at or near Fairfax and reach the ice of the Carbon Glacier. From this point it can be continued into both Spray and Moraine parks. Some road should be opened from the east to permit people to come in on that side and go out via the south. The important thing is to decide as soon as possible where roads are to be constructed and then see that a continuing appropriation is made for such development. There is no question but that the present road should be widened from Ashford to Paradise Park sufficient to permit autos and stages to travel over it safely. The government began a stage road to the park and then allowed the use of autos. This has created a menace which the government is morally bound to remove. Right here in the matter of roads is where the Moun- taineers can do a great good for the state. Being a state-wide organization they can do much to remove the partisan spirit. If Seattle and Tacoma ean be united upon a system of roads for the Rainier National Park, the chance of getting the neces- sary appropriations from Congress will be increased many fold. As long as there is a feeling that the state is not united in this matter Congress feels safe in passing up all appropriations. A north road is certain to come and the Mountaineers should be the first ones to back the movement for it. They are familiar with the region to be opened, the scene of their 1909 outing, know of the beautiful parks that will be made acces- sible to tourists, and should do all in their power to aid in the work. Superintendent Hall has opened some of the old trails on the north side and built some new ones. An application has been made for a hotel permit in Moraine Park, and also one in Spray. It will be only natural, when these hotels are open, for the tourist to wish to make the trip from one side to the other. This will, more than anything else, lead to the opening of trails, and later, roads around the mountain. I realize that the true Mountaineer would much rather see the mountains from the trail or the unexplored wilderness, but to make mountains at all popular, to get the majority of people into them, it is necessary to have roads. 44 The Mountaineer ALL NIGHT ON AN ACTIVE VOLCANO CHARLES ALBERTSON Recent newspapers report a renewed activity of Asama Yama in central Japan. Friends confirm these statements and tell of the loss of human life. All this brings clearly to mind a trip brother and I made to this energetie voleano-mountain some years ago. It was in September, 1901, that we took steamer from my home in Kobe for Yokohama. From there we traveled probably a hundred miles by narrow gauge and rack railway to a little village called Karuizawa, on the water- shed of the unique Island Empire. Asama Yama is of voleanie origin, without glaciers, young, and therefore shapely and attractive. It is gray-brown, of broad base, conieal, and rises in graceful curves from a plateau to a height of 8280 feet. One splendid fresh morning we started from Karuizawa at 8:30. Brother got away first while I was lengthening the stirrup-straps. He had three men to his jinrickisha, one in the shafts and two pushing. They swung out of the tiny mountain hamlet at a lively pace and all knew we were bound for Asama. After six miles the road began to elimb gradually and at eight miles we stopped at a clear, cool spring to fill our water bottles, as we should find no water beyond that point. We rested here a little and then started on up the winding roadway over the rounded foothills. In the cuts we could count three layers of scoria or pumice each 15 to 24 inches thick with black earth between. Evidently they were from three of Asama’s erup- tions many centuries apart. At 11:30, ten miles out, we left the road and turned in on the path which led to the foot of Ko-Asama. This means “Baby” Asama, and a pretty little thine it is, too. It is an exact miniature of the voleano and rises a thousand feet above the base of Asama. Here we had “tiffin” under a small pine. The jinrickisha could go no fur- ther, but the pony did go on up to the saddle between the baby mountain and its mother. We were now at 12:30 p. m. at the base proper of the mountain and our real work had only The Mountaineer 5 begun. Owing to the zig-zageineg of the trail we still had some two miles to go to reach our goal. The route was marked by stone cairns. When about half way up to the top, which we were usually watching, we saw an unexpected eruption like many we had seen at longer range. It consisted of smoke, steam, and ashes, one-eighth of a mile in diameter at the crater mouth, projected about a mile and a half straight up in the air. It went sky- ward, seemingly slowly, but in fact with great speed, gradually unfolding and spreading out until the top was much larger than the base upon which it appeared to stand. As the vast gray- brown volume ascended, more of course took its place from the crater, thereby keeping the form of the ever-rising shape. The whole mass literally boiled and tried to unfold and unwind and untwist hike great brown clouds each trying to get out of the immensity of itself and vet always keeping an approximate waterspout shape, unable to accomplish its separating purpose. Soon the winds began to drift it over until its symmetry was lost and it mingled with the clouds distinguishable only by being a little darker in color. It had been a wonderful sight and not soon to be forgotten. In a few minutes we were treated to a rain of fine, penetrating, biting ashes. After awhile we turned to the right and followed around the side of the mountain instead of climbing directly up. This was easier work, though more dangerous, for it took us across a very long steep slope with preearious footing. At last this diagonal trail brought us out on a fairly level knoll about 1000 feet from the erater and 150 feet below it. We reached the top at 4:00 o'clock. The climb was 4500 feet. When within 50 feet of the crater there was a booming roar from directly under us like unto ten Niagaras. We were instantly enveloped in ashes and a black sulphurous smoke mixed with hot steam which had no respect for our sense of smell any more than the ashes had for our eyesight. At the same time we distinctly heard rocks and stones dropping back into the liquid lava way down in the unearthly crater. They fell with great, thick-sounding, heavy puds as of immense bodies of ore dropping into molten iron. The falling masses had an ugly, angry, spiteful sound as if sulky and mad at not having been spit out of the seething mass entirely. There we were in the smells and smokes fresh from hell and in semi- LG The Mountaineer darkness. Resounding in our ears a wild, baffled, awful roar of rage from the very entranee itself. Under our feet we heard and felt the rocks as they went plunging back into the yellow heated cauldron from which they had only been partially ejected. It was all so utterly unexpected, so sudden, without any warning, that we heartily wished ourselves well out of it. Photograph by Charles Albertson Smoke, steam and gases erupting from ASama Yama. Column of vapors three-fourths of a mile above the crater The smoke cleared away and our tremulous nerves quieted down. Then the first thing to do was to see where all the grew- some fun came from, so we made for the edge of the crater. The top for a very short distance around the great, yawning, eireular hole is fairly flat and is one mass of rocks and lava completely filled in with ashes. It is therefore very porous, hollow sounding, and not well built to resist pressure. Standing on such material we looked over into the uncertain pit. The sides were straight up and down and we drew back in horror. We had little faith in the unstable ground we stood on. Far, far below we clearly heard the Devil’s awful kettle boiling, slowly boiling, boiling rocks, boiling the foundations of the earth, boiling the things we considered indestructible. Our ideas of the permanency of things changed. It was not a vigorous boiling, but gave a definite feeling of power, slow The Mountaineer 4% but awful power. Time was no object. The result would be accomplished just the same. No hurry, but forever and ever and ever boiling. On no fickle substance like water did it waste its energy, but concentrated its action on ponderous adaman- tine masses which took the power and heat of all the under- worlds to melt. The mighty cupola spit and sputtered in a dignified manner, knowing that it had unmeasured forces be- hind it and that it was doing the irresistible will of the Fire Gods. We could not see the bottom on account of the steam which rose continually from the unknown depths, but we did see down about 500 feet. The perpendicular rocks were such as we had never seen before though we will probably see them as long »s we live, so vivid was the impression. They were nauseating and infernal, a yellowish, sulphur-green, roasted and grilled, baked and fried and toasted by the intense, heat, and at some time had been cooked and boiled and par- boiled in living red-hot lava. Everywhere we went we encoun- tered sulphuretted steam, awesome radiating rock-crevasses, warm rocks and areas so hot as to burn our shoes. As we looked from the apex of the great cone, whole provinces in quiet grandeur unfolded before our delighted eyes. To the northeast was the verdureless, white Shirane San, an extinct voleano, and Nantai San, which I had climbed the year previous, shapely and verdure-clad. North, west, and south were great ranges and peaks, while away in the far south the peerless, graceful, magnificent Fuji appeared easily distinguishable, though over a full 100 miles distant. It towered 12,365 feet above the ocean, which almost washed its base. I have climbed it twice. In the east was the great Musashi plain stretching away to the mighty Pacific. Quiet rivers ran through it, villages and cities dotted it, clumps of straight, tall cryptomeria hid the inevitable shrine, and dainty bamboo groves showed themselves in favored places as islands in a sea of rich green, waving rice. Above all the noise and strife of the world we felt the peacefulness of the great silences and distances pervading us. We wandered all over the summit, filled our hearts with delight at the beautiful panorama lying in every direction, and wondered at the proofs of power continually before us. Thus talking, wondering, enjoying, investigating, we finally reached the rock-crevasse just at dusk where we had left our dunnage {S The Mountaineer two and one-half hours before. We were hungry, very tired, the excitement seemed over, the sun gone, darkness hurried after us, damp misty clouds wrapped us, chill-cold gripped us. We were suddenly alone in the night upon a mountain top, far from home and our beloved world below. Cries of piercing terror from the coolies made me look toward the crater. What I saw transfixed me to the spot spellbound—speechless—terrified. The sight was one of horror and awful power. The great crater was violently vomiting. The mountain shook. From the nether worlds came flame, murky smoke, and red-hot exploding rocks. The thing burned itself into me. I ean see it yet. The darkness, torn by livid flame, then made darker by the smoke, the reports of the burst- ing rocks, the crunching crashing of the rocks falling near us, the solemn awfulness of the place, the unexpectedness, the astounding manifestation of immeasurable hidden forces, and the intense uncertainty as to what was coming next, all com- bined to root me fast, overcome with awe and fear. The yawn- ing abyss gradually stopped its action and only an occasional sputter in the great yellow bottom of the cauldron gave evi- dence that it was not entirely dead. But our peace was gone. and more. Our early desire to be nearer was fully gratified We wished we were well out of it. Next morning we estimated that we had been 800 feet from the edge of the great hole when the eruption took place. Rocks had fallen to within a few feet of where we stood. Some weighed a quarter of a ton. We were fortunately just far enough away to miss the rain of rocks—and no further. We arranged to sleep just as far away from the crater as ever we could get. It was in a long, narrow crevasse which evidently was at one time a deep, painful, earthquake rent near the edge of the mountain crest. The falling ashes had soothed the wound to within a man’s height of the top. We were well sheltered by an improvised carpet-tent from the driving damp wind without and the dull damp floor beneath—but were not comfortable in mind. It was dark and dangerous outside and we could not escape from the mountain at night. Just before we slept there were tremors and another eruption, but this time of smoke only. Twice in the night I awoke to hear others and to wonder what next. We were under the edge of a soft, friable rock which a falling roek could easily crush down on AVMV SUTIN NOL VMVZINUVS WOU VNVA VAVSV . 4s x, « Li al f * # AIX 7M The Mountaineer 49 us. We were on the top of a most uncertain voleano which behaved most strangely. I was full of a complexity of weird feelings mingled with those of utter helplessness and danger. All the surroundines were dark and fearsome—was it a wonder that we slept uneasily and heartily weleomed the day? At five in the morning as the dumb, grey, grizzly dawn was finding itself out of the blackness in the east, we were awakened by another loud explosion and crawled out to see once again at close range the magnificent boiling smoke. The rocks this time fell back into the hot bed whence they came. We felt easier, for we expected to be off that place before the usual time for another. There was no sunrise for us and our seant breakfast was hastily eaten. Another look was ventured into the great pit of the Evil One, but we could see nothing, as the steam from his breakfast of sulphur and lava rose in great volumes. The wind, too, stinging cold and keenly damp, wrapped the clouds in gray, chilly sheets about us, so that we were glad to make away from the haunted though enticing pinnacle downwards toward the earth whence we had come, it seemed, long, lone before. We made fast time getting off that voleano, for in an hour and a half we were at the base of Ko-Asama, mighty glad to be free from the mental tension of the night before. Then it was we spread our blankets in the gladsome sunshine, ate a bite, and stretched ourselves to sleep. A half hour in the jinrickisha followed. Then an hour on foot over a very ancient lava flow which was covered by a sparse vegetation. This brought us to an ice eave under a young lava bed only one hundred twenty years old. The great, brown, cavernous mass rose abruptly before us and we scrambled, climbed, jumped, and did various goat anties to get up and out on the top. The sight we saw was wonderfully impressive, for the bed was at least five miles long and two miles wide. The formation was jagged and ragged, caved and pitted, creviced and ecrannied, tossed and tumbled, browned and burnt, scarred and seared, restless and confused. It showed under us and all around us unmistakable proofs of a power that in its action must have been tremendously and_ stupen- dously magnificent. Some vast, awful, fearful, netherworld force stirred to wrath had poured its vial of hot, surging lava out over a beautiful world, leaving fearful destruction in its path. 50 The Mountaineer Even to this day there is no vegetation on the miles of waste rock. The dust may fill a small crevice or two. The rain moistens the seeds dropped therein by the birds, but that is all. They are lke the biblical seeds that were dropped by the wayside and brought forth fruit—no fold. This clean, new, vegetationless bed, even though old by our standards, impressed upon us a clear perception of the age of the world and the long, slow processes of time. The usual and unusual incidents of the trip, including our escape, had enlarged our soul vision and made us meek. We left the lava beds at two, were picked up by the shaky jinrickisha at the lone tea house at three, had another drink out of yesterday's spring at four, and in the gathering dusk at 6:30 we swung into Karuizawa, pleased, weary, tired. And soon all those in the village whose tongues were Japanese knew that a pair of foreigners had spent the night on top and returned safely from the feared and mighty voleano, Asama Yama. AT CLOSE OF NIGHT ON VOLCANO The Mountaineer 51 WITH THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA *P. M. McGrecor The sixth annual camp of the Canadian Alpine Club was held at Sherbrooke Meadows, B. C., from July 26th to August 4th, 1911. The camp was five miles from Hector, on the main line of the Canadian Pacific railway, midway between Field and Laggan. It was in a beautiful valley—mountains on both sides and above, with Sherbrooke Lake a mile lower down the valley and with Lefroy, Victoria, and Cathedral mountains in sight across Lake Sherbrooke. The elub furnished tents with good bough beds, sufficient to care for 125 at one time. Over 150 attended the camp during the nine days. There was a large dining tent capable of seating about 80 at one time, located midway between the men’s and women’s quarters. A Chinese cook and two assist- ants cooked for the large party, and a maid cooked for the help and for any meals outside the regular hours. There were three maids and three boys to wait on the table. Tea was served at 4 p. m. every afternoon for any ladies or others who eared to indulge. There were three Swiss guides in attendance during the outing, besides a number of the older members of the club who acted as guides. The rope is used much more than on the Coast mountains, the people being roped together in parties of five or six as soon as the climbing becomes difficult. There is very much more rock work and much more difficult and dangerous climbing than in the Coast mountains. The ice-aX 1s much more popular than the alpenstock and is better for experienced climbers, especially on rock climbing. The main object of the summer camp is to qualify or graduate mem- bers. They become active members upon making one of the climbs decided upon by the climbing committee. Mt. Daly, 10,382 feet, was the graduating climb this year. Mt. Ogden, 8,795 feet, was a nice climb close to camp, and Mt. Niles, 9,742 feet, was another one not far away. Pope’s Peak, 10,255 feet, seven miles away, was to have been a graduating climb, but *Official guest from Mountaineers to Alpine Club of Canada, 52 The Mountaineer was found to be too difficult, so only a few had the pleasure of making it. Five members of the Alpine Club and the repre- sentatives of the Appalachian, Mazama and Mountaineer clubs were given the trip up Popes Peak as a reward for their attempts to help the graduating classes. Along with two Swiss euldes this party made the ascent the same day that the Mountaineers chmbed Mt. Adams. There was some rock work that showed the guides to good advantage, and also showed the need of the party being roped together. This climb was made from a temporary camp at Ross Lake, the only place that the Photograph by P. M. McGregor LAKE LOUISE, PART OF VICTORIA GLACIER SHOWING THROUGH THE CLOUDS mosquitoes were bad. We spent one night there, but preferred to make the trip to the top and back to main camp the same day rather than spend another night there. The annual meeting took place next day. There were 125 people in camp, a number coming in for that occasion, Elee- tions take place every two years and this was the year that they “stood,” so it was principally reports that were submitted to the members. The seeretary’s report showed that the elub had a paid-up membership of 650, that the club received grants of money from the Dominion government, British Columbia eovernment, Alberta government, and the Canadian Pacifie Plate XV Photograph by P. M. McGregor MT. BIDDLE AND GLACIER. LAKE McARTHUR, ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LITTLE LAKES IN THE ROCKIES The Mountaineer 53 railway, besides two Swiss guides free from the Canadian Pacific railway during camp. This money is expended prin- eipally on opening up and exploring new country, Mr. Wheeler and the club guide being in the Yellowhead country all sum- mer. There is a club house at Banff that is owned by a joint stock company of members and leased to the club. Club mem- bers receive from the Canadian Pacific railway a single fare round trip from anywhere in Canada for the annual outing. The meeting took place around the campfire. Vice-president Patterson had charge of the camp in the absence of Mr. Wheeler, president and director. He proved himself a very hard working gentleman, met all new arrivals with a handshake, directed them to the annex to the dining tent if it was outside the regular meal hours, told them where the secretary was to be found, and even ealled the early parties at 4 o'clock in the morning for breakfast. I do not think that he was out of camp for two hours during the nine days. Mr. Forde, chaizman of the elimb- ing committee, was a very capable gentleman, who with two others on his committee gave all members a chance to eraduate. Mr. Forde was out on a roye himself every day on the same mountain, and finally as his ewn reward he went over with two or three others to climb Popes Peak, but the guides would not take them up as the snow was not safe, due to much rain. Much rain fell during the camp, but generally at night. Tents are more necessary than in our Coast mountains. There were 63 members graduated this year. The tents furnished by the elub are round ones, similar to the army tent, and capable of accommodating about eight per- sons per tent. Active or associate members paid $2 a day—others, inelud- ing any who failed to graduate, paid $3 a day, so that any who came in for leisure around camp paid $1 a day more than the climbers. One representative from any other mountain club is put on the same standing as active members. 5. What other suggestions have you to offer? “Will you kindly have sent to us, one of the maps which, as a separate folder, accompanies the report upon the Olympic Forest Reserve? This map I desire to return to you with the proposed boundaries of the reserve indicated upon it. “Tam sending you, under separate cover, a panoramic photo- graph, which conveys a very good idea of the general char- acter of the country proposed to be set apart as a reserve. The endorsement upon the back of this photograph is self-explana- tory. The photograph referred to was the excellent picture of the range made by Asahel Curtis, who was actively engaged with Mr. Wright in this enterprise. When Congressman Humphrey received that letter and the accompanying phioto- eraph he laid both before President Roosevelt, who at once turned to the law for National Monuments for authority, and under date of 2 March, 1909, issued the following proclama- tion: “WHEREAS, The slopes of Mount Olympus and the ad- jacent summits of the Olympie Mountains, in the State of Washington, within the Olympie National Forest, embrace cer- tain objects of unusual scientific interest, including numerous glaciers, and the region which from time immemorial has formed the summer range and breeding grounds of the Olympic Elk (Cervus Roosevelti), a species peculiar to these mountains and rapidly decreasing in numbers; “Now, Therefore, I, Theodore Roosevelt, President of the United States of America, by virtue of the power in me vested by section two of the Act of Congress, approved June eighth, nineteen hundred and six, entitled, “An Act for the preserva- tion of American antiquities,’ do proclaim that there are here- by reserved from all forms of appropriation under the puble land laws, subject to all prior valid adverse claims, and set apart as a National Monument, all the tracts of land, in the counties of Jefferson, Clallam, Mason and Chehalis, in the State of Washington, shown as the Mount Olympus National Monu- ment on the diagram forming a part hereof, and more partic- ularly located and deseribed as follows, to-wit: “The reservation made by this proclamation is not intended to prevent the use of the lands for forest purposes under the 58 The Mountaineer proclamations establishing the Olympic National Forest, but the two reservations shall both be: effective on the land with- drawn, but the National Monument hereby established shall be the dominant reservation and any use of the land which inter- feres with its preservation or protection as a National Mon- ument is hereby forbidden. Warning is hereby given to all unauthorized persons not to appropriate, injure, remove, or de- stroy any feature of this National Monument, or to locate or settle upon any of the lands reserved by this proclamation. “IN WITNESS WHEREOF, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed. “Done at the City of Washington this second day of March, in the year of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and nine, and of the Independence of the United States the one hundred and thirty-third. THEODORE ROOSEVELT.” This met with general applause throughout the Northwest and the Mountaineers felt secure in the fruits of their labors in that direction until there arose complaints that prospectors and miners were hindered in their efforts to secure the min- eral wealth supposed to exist within the Monument. This ob- jection was promptly met in a characteristic way by the Moun- taineers. When Walter L. Fisher, Secretary of the Interior, visited the Northwest he sought information about the Olympie Na- tional Monument as he did about other matters within his jur- isdiction. Asahel Curtis and Georee E. Wright were asked to serve as a committee of the Mountaineers to present the facts to Secretary Fisher. The elub wished to advocate every rea- sonable wish of the miners. A conference was held by repre- sentatives of the various commercial bodies and organizations interested and it was amicably agreed to work together to pro- cure the following general objects: To change the Olympie National Monument into the Olympie National Park; to have the United States Geological Survey make a careful survey of the park as to its mineral resources; to permit mining and prospecting under proper regulations within the park; to ad- just the boundaries so as to inelude the summits of the moun- tains and as little as possible of lands useful for agriculture or forestry. Plate XXIII. Photograph by H. A. Fuller MOUNTAINEERS IN THE GOAT ROCKS The Mountaineer 59 Surprise and gratitude were expressed by the others inter- ested that the Mountaineers took such liberal ground on ques- tions naturally dear to them. Such has always been the at- titude of the Mountaineers. They want to save generous play- grounds for the whole people. The time is already upon us when such attractive parks are appreciated. As the population and tourist travel increase so will increase the intrinsic value of such parks. Anyone at all familiar with the conditions in Switzerland, California, the Yellowstone Park and elsewhere know that the whole Puget Sound country is destined to be- come an alluring place for travelers and that such visitations help enormously to develop and embellish the region visited. There are now thousands of people in various parts of this Republic who have enjoyed visits to the Mount Rainier Na- tional Park. They would rebel vigorously against any attempt to harm that wonderful beauty spot of earth. As methods of approach are improved there will arise other thousands who will be equally loyal to the Olympic National Park. The Mountaineers wish to help in every way possible to build trails and roads into these parks and to safeguard the beauties of nature there for the free enjoyment of all the peo- ple. Photograph by R. J. Hagman r ening neta YOO” A Copyright Asahel Curtis On the road to Mt. Rainier.* This shows a portion of the road that the Government has just completed to timber-line on the southern side of the mountain. It has cost $240,000 to complete the 25 miles of road- way and a large appropriation should be made to widen and improve it. Plate XIII. Copyright Asahel Curtis Spray Park on the northwest side of the mountain. This vast park is now reached only by a poor system of trails and this region should be opened as quickly as possible. No road work can be done until surveys are made and therefore it becomes necessary to decide upon the system of roads for the whole park and then work out these details. In this way a complete road system will be possible. ‘MONYOTd IW JO Jruruns 94} MO[eq P[aYMOUS B UO Way} SMOYS ON ; LOIN oyu Aq pe uljno [Njss Ss AIOA 9 S SINVAGV ‘LW AO LNYOSV HHL ONINNIOWEH SUYWANIVINOOW WAHL weysory “FY weerptay Aq Ydeaso oy, UBULUTET “ef “FL Aq Ydeaso joy, XIX 901d ITIAX 2M d uvulseH fy Aq ydeisojoud SMOCVUNW LV LISMOIISN TAOPV XX WAV d Al, Photograph by Charles Albertson ELEVATION 6,000 FT. CISPUS PASS, NEAR SHEEP BAND OF —J) Photograph by H. V. Abel SNOW CORNICE ABOVE KLICKITAT GLACIER, MT. ADAMS WHITE BARK PINE (PINUS CONTOR te cae pre yee Denman \ PARK NATIONAL » v RAINII 4 THE IN The Mountaineer Volume Four Notes of Other Clubs Other Notes Correspondence ere. 60 The Mountaineer NOTES OF OTHER CLUBS. The Mazamas, about forty in number, left Port- land the morning of August 2d, 1911, for Seattle, and on to Wenatchee that night, taking the steamboat up the Columbia the next day to Chelan Falls; staged up to Lakeside, and from there a small steamer took them up Lake Chelan to Stehekin, at the upper end of the lake, arriving that even- ing, August 3d. They left the next day, proceeding to Bullion, ten miles up the Stehekin river, where they camped over night at the fork of Bridge Creek and Agnes Creek trail, near the ranger’s cabin. The next day Glacier Peak Outing of the Mazama Club they walked over the trail, up the south fork of Agnes Creek, to a cabin several miles below Cloudy and Suiattle passes. The day fol- lowing they kept on over Suiattle Pass, down the canyon, to the ford below Glacier Mine, and over the two divides to Buck Creek Pass, where the main camp was established at the same place the Moun- taineers had chosen the year previous. The weather going in was cloudy and threatening, with fog and occasional showers, but cleared the second day after making the main camp. The writer came into camp several days late, having come down from the outing of the Alpine Club of Canada, where he represented the Mazamas, and met P. M. McGregor, representing the Moun- taineers, who will confirm the statement that the Canadian Rockies is a most alluring place for mountain enthusiasts to visit. I arrived in camp August 11th, the day the Mazamas made their official climb. They had left camp the day previous, following the Mountaineers’ trail over Little and Big Suiattle, across Chocolate Creek, and up the ridge above Chocolate Glacier, making camp a few hundred yards below the site selected by the Mountaineers. After a successful climb on August 11th, all making the summit, four of the party returned to the main camp the same day, the others staying over night at the upper camp and returning leisurely the next day. The next morning a party of six, two ladies and four men, with sleeping bags and provisions, started on a knapsack trip for Glacier Peak, taking the route the main party had taken, and reaching their camp site about three o’clock. We were just below the ridge rising from Chocolate Glacier in a small mountain meadow near the snow line looking out over a deep canyon with an extensive view of the ranges beyond which we enjoyed to the utmost. I have ascended over twenty snow peaks, but have never seen such perfect cloud panorama as we experienced climbing Glacier Peak. We rose at three o'clock, started at 4:30, followed the ridge through such heavy fog as to make us speculate if we could follow the back trail should we be obliged to turn back. Soon we noticed the fog was growing lighter, and sud- The Mountaineer 61 denly we came out above the fog, and what had been a cold, cheerless fog proved a sea of wonderful billowy clouds, with peaks rising like small islands from an angry tempest-swept sea, the clouds rolling up to where we stood, threatening to sweep us off our feet, the rising sun tinting the crest of the billows a delicate crimson. Coming as it did after the gloom and chill we had just passed through, the con- trast was overpowering. All the way up, over the glacier, we re- peatedly looked back. From the summit we could easily make out Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and other peaks above the clouds, and the latter breaking, we could look down into the canyons and timbered valleys far below. We made the summit at 9:10, staved an hour, and descended to main camp at 11:50, and after a brief rest and lunch, took the back trail, arriving at Buck Creek camp about seven that evening. I mention the time, as it may be of interest to fhe Moun- taineers, who preceded us the year previous, and greatly helped us by the trails they had blazed to Glacier Peak. The Mazamas broke main camp the next morning, August 16th, and camped that evening below Cloudy Pass, stayed over an extra day to give all an opportunity to visit Lyman Lake and Glacier, and then retraced their way down Agnes Creek, stopping at Bullion over night. and reaching Stehekin at noon the next day, August 20th. The Mazamas left that afternoon for Lakeside, caught the steam- boat at Chelan Falls next morning, the train at Wenatchee that after- noon, and were back in Portland Monday morning, August 21st. R. L. GLISAN The Appalachians spent about two weeks during this summer among the summits and trails of the Sandwich range, just north of Lake Winnipe- saukee. There were about thirty members in the party and nearly twenty made the climb of Whiteface and Passaconaway, about 4,000 feet high. The club maintains a small shelter at the foot of the cone of the mountain in which as many spent the night as the size of the shelter would permit. Fourteen of the party climbed Sandwich dsme, which made a good half day climb. The program for the last week included a climb to Chocorua, a day at Bear Camp Pond and an overnight temporary camp at Black Moun- tain Pond, high up under the south knob of the mountain. The char- acter of eastern mountain climbing as compared to climbing here- abouts is well indicated by the following reference to the path being marked by a sign: “Any who think of tramping in to Flat Mountain Pond from Whiteface should inquire the way, since the wood road leading to the path is not marked with a sign.” The Appalachians maintain a number of huts and camps about the White Mountains for the use of whoever may pass. Appalachian Camp at Whiteface The 1911 outing of the Sierra Club was held in the Yosemite National Park. A preliminary camp was established in Yosemite Valley for the two weeks preceding the main outing. The unusually high water in the streams made a wonderful spectacle of the falls this year and the Activities ofthe Sierra Club During 1911 62 The Mountaineer valley was crowded with visitors. On July 7th the main outing party left San Francisco, reaching Yosemite Valley the next day. The morning of the 10th the Yosemite camp was struck and the start made for the high country. One hundred and eighty-five members were on the outing list, and with the addition of cooks, packers, and as- sistants the party numbered over two hundred persons. The first camp was made in Little Yosemite, and the second at Lake Merced, where two days were devoted to the exploration of the upper Merced Basin and the climb of Mt. Clark (11,506). Thence the party traveled across Vogelsang Pass and down Rafferty Creek to the. Tuolumne Meadows, a most beautiful and spacious mountain garden spot about 9,000 feet in elevation, which is the finest camping ground in the Sierra and so located that an almost unlimited number of trips may be taken from it. Ascents of Dana (13,050), Lyell (13,090), Rit- ter (13,156) and Conness (12,556), trips to Tioga Lake for fishing or down the Bloody Canyon to the volcanic regions about Mono Lake, fishing parties up and down the Tuolumne River, picnics on Lam- bert’s Dome, cr swimming in Dog Lake filled to overflowing the five days that were spent there. A two days’ camp at the mouth of Con- ness Creek gave an opportunity to visit the more wonderful falls near the head of the Tuolumne Canyon before setting out on the trip that was the main feature of this outing—the circuit of the northern portion cf the park. For more than a week camp was shifted nearly every day. Matterhorn, Kerrick, Stubblefield and Tilden canyons, Rogers, Benson and Tilden lakes were visited, Piute Mt. and Ranch- eria Mt., Matterhorn and Tower Peak were climbed and then the party journeyed to Hetch Hetchy, remaining there for three days be- fore taking the homeward trail via Crockers and the Merced and Tuolumne groves of sequoias to El Portal. No accidents marred the trip and the only inconvenience suffered was from one or two heavy thundershowers whose wonderful cloud scenery more than compen- sated for the temporary discomfort. The Le Conte Memorial Lodge opened as usual on May 15th and was maintained for three months as the club’s Yosemite Valley head- quarters. Several valuable additions have been made to the library and equipment of the Lodge and the fact that more than 5,000 people visited it last summer shows that it is gaining an important place for itself in the valley. A herbarium was installed this summer and a complete collection of Yosemite wildflowers will be secured as soon as possible. Maps and photographs of the High Sierra are on dis- play there and information regarding trails and camping places freely given. As interest in the more unfrequented portions of the Yosemite National Park is increasing each year the Lodge’s usefulness is only in its beginning. The weekly local walks in the vicinity of San Francisco continue te hold their popularity and a similar movement has been started in Southern California. The average attendance in the Bay region is about fifty, pleasant days often calling out as many as eighty or ninety. A feature that grows in favor is the over-night trip, taken The Mountaineer 63 to embrace all holidays falling on a Saturday or Monday, and also a Saturday afternoon and Sunday trip each month when the moon is near the full. Some of the voints thus visited have been Mt. Diablo, Mt. St. Helena, the Big Basin (Santa Cruz Mts.), the Redwood Grove of the Bohemian Club and the Armstrong Big Tree Grove along the Russian River, Duxbury Reef at Bolinas, Inverness (on Tomales Bay), Bear Valley, La Honda and Potrero Meadows. Some of these have been taken as pure knapsack trips, in others the over-night stop has been made at a hotel, and on still others some of the party have knap- sacked while others have remained at a hotel. Though hardly to be classed among the “local’’ excursions one of the activities planned by the Local Walks Committee was a mid-winter trip to Yosemite Valley, which gave about twenty dwellers in the Bay region the novel experience of ice skating, skeeing, coasting and snow balling. MARION RANDALL PARSONS . ; There is plenty of good work going on in Switz- Swiss Alpine erland in the way of true alpinism. A Zurichose Club mountaineer, M. Triek, of the Uto section of the Swiss Alpine Club, ascended on July 30, for the first time this year, the difficult and dangerous pass of Crast’Aguzza, between the Mor- terasch Glacier and the upper Scerscen Glacier, in the Bernina group. The section Diablerets early in August made its regular excursion to the Grisons, climbing in considerable numbers Piz Segnes, near Flims (10,174 feet) and Sardona, about fifty feet lower. The Diablerets section has been in evidence against this season, this time at Zermatt, where, on August 7, ten members, having for guests two of the Montreux section, climbed the Matterhorn with- out a guide. It was a gala day for the grim old mountain, for not less than thirty-two persons were on its summit, and at the hut it was necessary for half of the company to sleep out of doors. It was stormy in the night, but no one was the worse. The convention of mountain climbing clubs called by the Hono- lulu Trai) and Mountain Club was held in Honolulu during the week from February 22d to February 28th, 1911.. The meetings were very informal in their nature. The desirability of some joint action by the clubs on the Coast giving a member of one club temporary rights and privileges of their clubs when visiting the other places was dis cussed and it was the sense of the meeting that such courtesy should be extended as far as possible. The Pan Pacific Congress held a convention at the same time and place and they have under consideration the establishing of per- manent headquarters in some state in the United States, possibly New York, and the suggestion was made to the mountain climbing clubs to have desk room there where any one interested could se- cure information regarding the work done, trips taken and contem- plated, and could read the magazines and bulletins which would be filed. 64 The Mountaineer NOTES. PERMANENT FUND. Article XI of our new constitution pro- vides that “all membership dues, initiation fees and gifts, unless oth- erwise stipulated by the donor, together with such amounts from the organization funds as the board may direct, shall constitute a_per- manent fund. This shall be safely and separately invested and the income only used.’ The nucleus of the new fund is $33.00, now draw- ing interest. MOUNTAINEERS AND BOY SCOUTS. Major EH. S. Ingraham, veteran mountaineer and Scout Commissioner of the Boy Scouts of America in Seattle, asks the co-operation of the Mountaineers in his work in the latter organization, and nc movement of recent years is more worthy of our encouragement. The three-fold aim of the Scouts is, strengthening the body, train- ing the mind, and building up the character, and is based upon the practical idea of leading a boy to be thorough, honorable, and alert in his play and to be thoughtful of others. It shows him how to gain skill in play by learning many useful things. It relies on the psychol- ogical fact that the boy, with his irresistible curiosity, turns in fun to inquire intc many things that have a practical and educational value. The boys by becoming Scouts have an opportunity to learn wood- craft, gain knowledge of birds and trees, learn the secrets of the woods, to swim, paddle a canoe, and do many other things boys love to do. At all times they have over them a Scout Master, whose cre- dentials have been approved, and who is really their physical, mental, and character trainer. He watches over them and guides them in their play and their various activities, trains them in alertness, self- reliance, and other Scout virtues. His aim is to turn out useful, self- reliant, alert, honest citizens. The Scout “oath” or promise says: “On my honor I will do my best—1. To do my duty to God and my country, and to obey the Scout Law; 2. To help other people at all times; 3 To keep myseif physically strong, mentally awake, and morally straight.” The Scout Law has twelve planks, and if a boy obeys them he will be an excellent Scout. The points are: 1. A Scout is trustworthy. 7. A Scout is obedient. 2. A Scout is loyal. 8. A Scout is cheerful. 3. A Scout is helpful. 9. A Scout.is thrifty. 4. A Scout is friendly. 10. A Scout is brave. 5. A Scout is courteous. 11. A Scout is clean. 6. A Scout is kind. 12. A Scout is reverent. Major Ingraham’s greatest need just now is for men to look after the patrols. Mr. Jack Morrill, a Mountaineer, has become an enthu- The Mountaineer 65 siastic Scout Master and other volunteers for like services are de- sired. Surely there is a great work for the Mountaineers in co-operat- ing in the splendid work of making good citizens, and training good material for future Mountaineers. The Research Committee of the National Geographic Society has made an appropriation of $5,000 from the research fund to continue the studies of the Alaska glaciers which were conducted by the so- ciety in 1909 and 1910. The work this year was in charge of Prof. Ralph S. Tarr of Cornell University and Prof. Lawrence Martin of the University of Wisconsin. While Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America it is also remarkable in having the longest snow and ice slope of any of the world’s great mountains. This mountain demands about 18,000 to 19,000 feet of snow and ice work, while Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak, has a perpetual snow line of between 17,000 and 18,000 feet, leaving only 11,000 to 12,000 feet of snow. The Parker-Browne expedition to Mount McKinley spent fifty nights continuously on snow and ice, and experienced difficulties as great in attaining an elevation of 10,300 feet as any to be encountered in reaching an altitude of 20,000 feet in the Himalayas. The Sierra Club of California has recently accomplished important work in the planting of trout in fishless lakes and streams. The club took up this work several years ago, co-operating with the California Fish and Game Commission. In a few years the regions planted will become a veritable ‘fisherman’s paradise’. A large sum was appro- priated for the work, which enabled them to equip two pack trains with specially built cans and other necessary apparatus. The “Mountaineer” department of the Boston Transcript, con- ducted by John Ritchie, Jr., is a veritable clearing house of mountain information. Miss Dora Keen, who attempted the ascent of Mt. Blackburn in Alaska last summer and was compelled to return on account of in- sufficient supplies, has a splendid record as a climber in the high Alps in the summer of 1909. In summarizing and contrasting her 16 climbs, she ranks the Matterhorn as the hardest, because it was so long un- der the conditions that they had, and was hard all the time, but the Chamonix guides do not admit that it is harder than the Aiguilles. In general, except for the Matterhorn, the ascents at Chamonix were 66 The Mountaineer harder, more interesting, and more of an anxious strain than those at Zermatt. The frontispiece of this issue was done by Mr. A. H. Denman and Mr. A. H. Barnes of Tacoma. “Awards for mcuntain climbing achievements,” is the novel an- nouncement made by the Swedish Olympic Committee, in connection with the fifth series of International Olympic Games which will oc- cupy 2 month the coming summer—June 29 till July 22—at Stockholm. The Swedish committee has decided to award a gold Olympic medal for the finest performances during the years 1908-1911 in game shoot- ing and mountain ascent, respectively. This is an innovation in that it places mountaineering very properly in the sports and fortunately in a way free from the arbitrary rules that so often give athletic awards to the most tricky rather than to the most meritorious. The leading alpine clubs in the world have the right to propose candidates for these prizes. The judging will be carried out by a special jury, the decision of which shall be in the hands of the Swedish Olympic Committee at latest by June 1. Mr. P. M. McGregor was the Mountaineer representative on the outing of the Alpine Club of Canada for 1911.. It is hoped that a reg- ular exchange of guests with other clubs may be instituted. The Sierra Club Bulletins of 1911 are splendid mountaineering journals and show the great work that organization is doing. The feature of the January, 1911, number is “Cathedral Peak and the Tuo- lumne Meadows,” by John Muir. This article is an extract from the author’s journal, “My First Summer in the Sierra,’ published this spring by Houghton, Mifflin Company, Boston, with illustrations by the author and Herbert W. Gleason. Refreshing as a mountain breeze comes Prof. Meany’s collection of poems, “Mountain Campfires’. Most of the verses were written for the Mountaineer campfires of the various outings and will be wel- comed by the Mountaineers as a delightful reminder of charming days in the open and delightful hours of rest around the evening fires. The poems include a sonnet to Mt. Rainier, poems to Mt. Adams and Glacier Peak, charming verses to the mountain flowers, trees and lakes. The book is from the press of Lowman and Hanford and is a dainty volume bound in Japanese wood veneer with an interesting poster cover design. 1 ee fy Beautifully illustrated by photographs and paintings by the author, “Our Greatest Mountain” is just from the press. The literary side is The Mountaineer 67 largely by A. H. Denman, of Tacoma, including ‘Outdoors in Western Washington,” “The Mountaineers,’ and “The Mountain,” incorporating Prof. Meany’s poem “The Law of the Hills’. Mr. Barnes is to be con- gratulated upon the artistic beauty and general excellence of work- manship. The book is destined to exert a wide influence and will prove a valuable addition to any mountain lover’s library. A second edition of ‘“‘The Mountain that was ‘God’,” by John H. Williams, of Tacoma, is just from the press of G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New York and London. A copy recently received shows interesting additions both in the text and the illustrations. We predict for the volume an even more extended popularity than the earlier edition and increased influence in attracting attention to our national park and the great ‘Monarch of the Coast”. RESOLUTIONS. WHEREAS: Our Almighty Father has calied to rest our associate, and WHEREAS: Frank S. Southard was an earnest, active, and helpful member of The Mountaineers from the beginning of the club’s organ- ization to the hour of his death; therefore be it RESOLVED: By the Board of Directors in meeting assembled for this special purpose, that we give expression to our appreciation of his noble aualities of manhood, to our sorrow over his being called up the last long trail, and to our sympathy with members of his bereaved family; and be it further RESOLVED: That we invite all the members of The Mountaineers to assemble at the time and place designated for the funeral that we may give to our departed friend a last tribute of respect. WHEREAS: The fifth annual outing of the Mountaineers is about to close; and, WHEREAS: This outing has been in all essentials highly pleas- urable owing not only to the scenic character of the route selected but also to the excellent camp management; and, WHEREAS: The trip has presented unusual and unexpected dit- ficulties calling for exceptional services and sacrifice on the part of many committees and individuals; therefore, be it RESOLVED: That we acknowledge our appreciation particularly: FIRST: To those who originally gathered the information and projected the route. 68 The Mountaineer SECOND: To the present outing committee whose untiring en- ergy and painstaking efforts have overcome all obstacles and brought the outing to a successful consummation. THIRD: To David McColl, the sheep herder, Albert Bertschi, the forest ranger, and Hugo Kuhnhausen of Lewis, who rendered in- valuable services in overcoming unforeseen difficulties. FOURTH: To those who accompanied the pack train in to Lang- mire Springs and gave freely of their time and energy in outlining the best possible course. FIFTH: To the scouts and all others who were called upon or volunteered to make extra trips for the benefit of the party or of in- dividuals for whose welfare the party felt responsible. SIXTH: To the doctor and nurses who rendered gratuitous pro- fessional services. SEVENTH: To the program committee and all who in any way contributed to the camp-fire program, especially to our gifted pres- ident whose Indian lore and nature verses have added a peculiar charm and interest to our evening gatherings. EIGHTH: To the packers to whom fell the arduous labor of transporting our provisions and dunnage over well-nigh impassable trails and completed the task without accident of any kind. NINTH: To the chef and his capvable assistants, “who worked while their companions slept’, and whose skill, industry and splendid management added to their enviable record gained on previous trips. AND FINALLY: To the many who have not otherwise been men- tioned but who have cheerfully and unselfishly given of their strength and talent to make this outing one of the most memorable the club has ever undertaken; and be it further RESOLVED, That these resolutions be made a part of the records of the club and printed in the official publication and that copies be sent to Mr. McColl, Mr. Bertschi and Mr. Kuhnhausen. ROBERT E. MORITZ WINONA BAILEY GERTRUDE INEZ STREATOR A. H. BRACKETT WINIFRED MACFARLAND Committee on Resolutions The Mountaineer 69 CORRESPONDENCE. When in Seattle on his way to Alaska, Secretary of the Interior Walter L. Fisher asked Mr. Asahel Curtis to prepare a list of suggestions for the Rainier National Park. Such a list was prepared and submitted to him. Some such vlan of action should be decided upon and a strong committee put at work to see that it is carried out They should have the support of the club members until the Moun- taineers are recognized as a power that must be reckoned with in all affairs pertaining to the mountains. As Secretary Fisher writes, it is necessary to get the people of the state of Washington interested in this and get the appropria- tions through Congress. The Secretary of the Interior has recom- mended appropriations for the park many times, but there has been no support of his recommendations and they have failed of congress- ional approval. A recommendation has been included in the Secre- tary’s report this year. It is now up to the people of the state that it does not fail in Congress. November 9, 1911 Dear Sir: I have been examining your communications of September 7th and 8th, with regard to Rainier National Park, and am very much inter- ested in them. I find, however, that practically all of your suggestions will reauire funds that are not now available. Indeed, the entire ques- tion of what is to be done at the Rainier Park depends so very largely upon the action of the next Congress with regard to the appropriations and also the creation of the proposed Bureau of National Parks, that I suggest that you take it up with the people in the State of Wash- ington who are interested and see what can be done to secure from Congress the necessary legislation and appropriations. It will give me very great pleasure, indeed, if Congress enables us to put the national park administration on an efficient basis, and if adequate funds are supplied to develop these parks as they should be developed. I believe that Inspector Keys, of this department, is now in the Rainier Park making an investigation, the result of which will be re- ported for our use before the Appropriations Committee. Thanking you for your kind expressions with regard to myself, I am, Sincerely yours, (Signed) WALTER L. FISHER, Secretary Suggestions for work in the Rainier National Park in the order of their importance: 1st. The creation of a Bureau of National Parks and the appoint- ment of a National Park Commission. 2nd. The organization of a definite project for the construction of trails and roads within the National Park in order that all work done +0 The Mountaineer in its development be toward some definite end, and be of permanent value. This project should consist of two separate divisions, one for trail work and one for roads. The trail work seems to be of first im- portance, for at present the park is practically at the mercy of a fire and large areas are closed to all travel. The following vroject is suggested for the park, the subjects being given in the following order of their importance: Ist. The opening of the old trails on the mountain, where such trails are on the general line of travel, and the establishment of new trails to enable the vark rangers to go from one park on the mountain to another without making the long detour to the lower valleys now necessary. This trail work seems very necessary to afford fire pro- tection, for as the trails now exist it would, in many cases, take a day or two to reach a fire that was only a few miles away. A proper system of trails would triple the value of the rangers. 2nd. Widening the present road from the park entrance to Para- dise Valley to a width of sixteen feet and the construction of parapets at dangerous points, to prevent autos and stages from going off grade. (This recommendation is made because it is now practically recog- nized that this road is creating a new situation in national parks af- fairs, and that it will not long be possible to keen the autos off the mountain road above the glacier. The fact that the vark is close to two big cities and that a large auto traffic is already making use of the road to the glacier, is in a measure forcing the situation.) At present this road is not safe for the combined traffic that is permitted to use it, that of stages and autos. The road was built as a stage road and later autos were nermitted to use it. Now that such permission has been given the only safe course to take is to make it wide enough to accommodate both kinds of travel. 5rd. The extension of the present road from Paradise Valley along the route suggested by Eugene Ricksecker through Magnetic Park and around the Cowlitz Glacier to Cowlitz Park on the southeast side of the mountain. This road should be connected with the road system of Yakima County to enable the people of eastern Washington to visit the National Park. 4th. The extension of the present road from some point above Longmire through Van Trump Park to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground. This would open up one park that is now inaccessible to any form of travel except afoot across ice-fields and deep canyons. 5th. The construction of a road up the valley of the Carbon to the ice-fields and thence to Spray Park on the northwest slope and into Moraine Park on the north slope of the mountain. This country is now reached only by a system of trails that is wholly inadequate for fire protection or tourist travel. The north side is almost inaccessable at present, and in some cases if a ranger saw a fire when it started it would be two days before he could get to it. A system of roads as given above would require years to complete and if the work was started the road would naturally continue all The Mountaineer Peal around the mountain. Before such an extensive road system could be completed it would be necessary to build a very complete system of trails and it would not be advisable to make them along the line of the proposed road. A shelter should be erected at Camp Muir at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Such a hut could be constructed from the rock that is on the ground. The cement necessary for such construction could be packed nearly to Camp Muir on horses if a short piece of trail was constructed at the base of Timberline Ridge. Sanitary conditions should obtain at all of the mountain camps. At present there is much refuse scattered around and large piles of manure are taken out of the stables at Longmire Springs and scattered over the ground. There have been many cases of fever reported among visitors to the park this summer. I believe that a sewer system will soon be absolutely necessary, not only at Longmire but at the moun- tain camps. I am not repeating the splendid recommendations of Mr. Matthes regarding the guides. It meets with my approval in every way and is so much better coming from a man who is entirely free from any local prejudice. I believe that the guides, who at present are located on the south side, would welcome such regulation. It would serve to clear up the situation. In the matter of the patrol of the park it would seem advisable to have a company of soldiers stationed there during the tourist sea- son. On this point Mr. Hall would be the best advised. The Moun- taineers got a bill through Congress permitting the Secretary of War to loan a company to the Secretary of the Interior for that purpose, but I believe they were never detailed. At the present time tourists are not allowed to pick flowers, yet stock is permitted to graze in the park. This has caused much ad- verse comment. It would scarcely seem that the little value of milk at the camp in Paradise would justify the grazing of cows there. lie The Mountaineer THE MOUNTAINEERS, 1911-12 OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS Prof. Edmond S. Meany, President.............. 4025 10th Ave. N. E. Dr. He W. Stevens; Vice-president. .....5).......00+.% 1505 East Madison Chass Mee HMarrer |S 6Cretanys misses c oie ceclorsersi deters 522 Pioneer Building John A: Best, Jr., Assistant Secretary......2...<...: 30 New York Block PS eve NieGrecors (Ereasumens..c coco. oe bse eek ee Cobb Building Miss wWinond “Baileyosistorianinc. i.e son occ cele cee 1608 EK. Union MissElimlre sy Nettleton iH dito ene rar. srenerercrepereter tna rere, ie 1806 8th Ave. West (CLEON SETH S MWS eh eee ere ee ee ee eR ee 1227 38th Ave. N. ESR AT IN CUS Oia nese tae coe sarap eae sas cue Pe Teh ce clicaCetS ae tay tus SE ano Hazel, Wash. [SICA 1 SYed heat itera oh eg Ue tate tio oRRe iy eae Rt AR era rT eRe ne 414 16th Ave. N. GharlessAlbentSonies resect e cater aee ree eis elon rete The Chelsea Dr Hes Bs Einimans ian-grams, giving bulletins of the important evente of the day. and the afternoon serving of tea in the lounge observation car—which occasion 1s presided over by one of the lady travelers. Other features are the scrupulous train clean- liness, made possible by the vacuum cleaning system: the advan- tage of long distance telephone connection at stations; the con- venience of ly brary. Ww riting room, barber shop, bath room, clothes pressing, mens club room and buffet: and the comfort of berths that really are longer. higher and wider than on any other road. Traveling becomes a ple asure on this palatial train as it speeds onward over “the short- est route to the East. Leaves Seattle for Chicago Daily at 10:15 A. M. Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Ry. GEO W HIBBARD Geaers! Passenger Agent. Seattle R M CALKINS. Traffic Manager Re wes set (= le Se, * PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER Wountaineers’ Clothing oe 99 Cravenette 1D UX b a k Waterproof We call your particular attention to our extensive line of suitable outing apparel for women “Duxbak” Boot Dressing Waterproof Boots Yours Py per & “Laft Quality tor Incorporated ar Fair New Location After February First Quality 1117 Second Avenue Prices “Mountain Camp Fires” By PROFESSOR EDMOND S. MEANY @ We announce for publica- tion in the month of November, " . : + Ce ae Mountain Camp Fires,” being the collected poems of Professor Edmond S. Meany of the University of Washington. @ Bound in wood veneer. With front- ispiece iby Curtis: -“Pri¢e o)-00 net. Postage 8c additional. owman € Hantord (-o: 4 616-620 FIRST AVENUE SEATTLE by Edmond S.Meany » PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER C : C : Filson | Manufacturer of Waterproof Khaki, English Gabar- dine, Hunting Coats, Women’s Outing Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Blankets, Wool Batts, etc. @ All kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for Outdoor life. @ References: Every Mountaineer patron. 1011 First Avenue, Seattle Norman & Bennett's Every Mountaineer Knows Its Value a Brown Brothers 722 First Avenue Corner Columbia Seattle Seattle Tent avd Awning Co. Manufacturers aud Jobbers—Silk Tents Made to Order for Mountaineers and Sportsmen—Sleeping Bags and Tarpaulins Spring Street and Western Avenue—Seattle Th B That Stands the Work S Oot —Most Practical amd Popular PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER Printing and Kngraving The Shop that Satisfires The Lumbermen’s Printing 147-148 Henry Company. sade. 1 Sedttle Telephones — Sunset Main 3025 and Independent 3650 The Seattle National Bank Second Avenue and Cherry Street Resources Over $16,000,000.00 © ReEoGEARES DERE CRORS E. W. \NDREWS, President J. W. Spancter, Vice-President Medd tag E. G. Ames, Vice-President E. W. ANDREWS F. K. Struve, Vice-President E. G. AMES R. V. ANKENY, Casilier R. V. ANKENY C.-L. LAMPING, Assistant Cashier H. C. MacDonatp, Assistant Cashier x C. L. La Grave, Assistant Cashier DANIEL KELLEHER W™. S. PEAcHEY, Assistant Cashier F. K. StTRUVE J. Furts, Chairman HERMAN CHAPIN Mountaineer Annual - 1911 Mt. Adams Number On sale at the office of the Financial Secretary JOHN A. BEST, Jr., 433 New York Block Vols. [, L1 and [11 on sale at $1.25-per Set PLEASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS AND MENTION THE MOUNTAINEER ‘ 7 - b ws : —- * t + ‘Wie, huete Lah : ‘ td vi : : : * ‘ ! a? . P Py jus > r Py | ya] ? 7 ve ne ae ra ier,‘ ¥) N fe a r . . ' 4 ' AL A ‘ - { 7 " | ~ ay ¢ ) . | * . sy 1h ’ ; 5 : ’ rN ¢ / ' \ ‘ Ne [ ; ‘ : rr 1 - ¢ 7 \ 2) : 7 “ a3 ‘ ; LUMBERMEN'S PRINTING COMPANY re SEATTLE, WASHINGTON ? aor x ONY ; ‘ a2 ! . thy TRY bars ae D RLAN EOy 12 * 4 } 4 RK AND SUMME 7 UNTAINEER ASAAASAAARAASAS bewe PAT IR AINIER NUMBER UME v R 4 we iat a OL 4 : th ep / vig ' ‘\ / : ~ ¢ : : aa ate asc Eons ‘ | inibe a, ny 1’ Mv * * td : : i re > . «i Wi , d Dow % A ; oe y , + A - ‘ " Py o ' ra se” , , . ws ' af iw ys 5s '¢ . 5 tae nie pS a. Nid ' ay cf “ £ } ae NMA 2 Roun tiers 4 : ‘ J i r z ¥ 5 y , 4 ; : Kf ) ‘ - is : Hi o- , ‘ y 7 ; f We replay a HS Publication Committee = = + . Lulie Nettleton, Editor ets A. H. Albertson, Business Manager Tyron Uae Winona Bailey, Historian Menet Se ee Helen Gracie — Pe eit s ats Rings ' Effie Chapman Hz. A. Fuller Shy ng The Mountaineer Volume Five Nineteen Hundred Twelve LIBRARY NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN. Published by The Mountaineers Seattle, Washington Copyright 1912 < The Mountaineers Py dye ‘ — ; iad’ J ee 7 > a pothay cae es i. ueint er ae = wi Viton, ate Te fi & CONTENTS Page Greeting ............... EF Se ee ron eee VOT tiger cen ea ee Greehin cae in he ees ose Vs ene ee eo hesiicherm unctions ofa) WMountams Glubie. =.) ee Wm. Prederte Bade... 9 Wrthleamtan Om ag ee eee Bamond S. Wiican 18) Mountaineer Outing of 1912 on north side of Mt. Rainier... Miary RGScnall) 2 ee 14 Itinerary of Outing, of 19127... Charles Ss (Gleason 222-2: 26 The Ascent of Mt. Rainier................ EMO ISU ENG lets ee Seen etree, eo 28 Gace haa UE oe Rese lene ee ee eee ee Bidmondes = Vicany= ses) es 36 A New Route up Mt. Rainier.............. DN OY 0 IAA ee od ag EA, 2, ee 37 INeGh CSP ass: eateries Pees Edmond «Ss Micany ee oe 40 Undescribed Glaciers of Mt. Rainier..Francois Matthes _......0000000-.-.--- 42 ethienm. qe tee poe Mieke eee, > Sameera eer ain a iene wid Plate XXVI BOreschrutid: Otte Vite INAINIIEK 2 0:-< 2-ctscacec ssc oeceetore pave tee ncesees Plate XXVIF Ip Plate uny] siou Apidniqe Sulsti Jopurey “GI6L “qq 01 SaTpUL Wa} JSeay}NOS Surly ‘FL ‘3ny ‘“MopA JO juyod aq] eao0qe 199 0008 OoT {3905 0009 JO WOTBAV[S UB 4B udyB} AIA Bupseaoy BipAy MUVd GNVUD WOUd NIVINOOW GAL OL Plate HHL YAAO NIVINOOW LNGOSAUO WOM HLNAOS DNIMOOT NIVEINOOW GL eLO MOILA UAHLONY ONIMOTHS Greetings: From John Muir ann Enos Mills Salutation: wT Salutation: ENOS A. MILLS LONGS PEAK, ESTES PARK 0 fe — I + + nh Baoanoe ctober , tenth, i912 To The Mountaineers: Scenery is the greatest of natural re- sources and there could hardly be a more useful activity th that of arousing interest in it. Nature is ever democratic, ever sanitary, ever recreative and always cheering. It is the best of company and in the nature of things there cannot be a more laudable club than the Mountaineers, or one cf sim- ilar aims and equally high character. The home region of the Mountaineers is unexcelled by any other in the world. Your are to ve congratulated on situation and thanked for great work already dcne for scenery. Unfortunately scenery still is regarded as an outcast and much work is yet to be dene in saving scenery frem destruction and guarding it until it is appreciated. The out- doors of yesturday is gone forever and the wilderness is van- ishing. During the next few years it will be the lot of mountain clubs to select and save for all the people the few remaining scenic places and alse to see that all Nat~- ional Parks and scenic reservations o? the Nation are giv~ en adequate protection and development. Do we not need a National Park Department or a Scenic Bureau? Scenery ig one of the great assets of this country and its value is steadily increasing. Then too, Scenery has a large and important place in the making of good citizens. The Mountaineer Volume Five Seattle, Washington Nineteen Twelve THE HIGHER FUNCTIONS OF A MOUNTAIN CLUB* WitwiaMm Frepertc BapE Mountaineering as a form of sport is a relatively recent arrival among the recreational interests of mankind. In vain one searches the literature of antiquity for evidence that the ancients were interested in the conquest of mountain heights for the satisfaction of athletic and aesthetic impulses. When moun- tain ranges have been successfully traversed in the pursuit of other ends, an ancient chronicler sometimes allows himself a momentary exultation, but more because of what has been escaped, than because of what has been braved. The earliest record of this kind known to me, made 1259 B. C., more than a thousand years before Hannibal crossed the Alps, is an inscription on the front of the temple of Rameses II at Abusimbel, Egypt. It commemorates the arrival at the Egyptian court of King Hattusar of the Hittites and his daughter. Together with their retinue they had made the long journey of a thousand miles from central Asia Minor to Egypt, crossing the Taurus mountains in winter time. Although they doubtless selected the easiest passes, it was a notable achieve- ment, and was felt to be such by the Egyptian monarch, who three thousand years ago bade his scribe sculpture this simple tribute on the walls of the royal sanctuary: “What can these newcomers be like! To make such a journey when there goes not a messenger to Zahi in these days of flood on the upper heights in winter. . . . . The embassy came, their lLmbs being sound, and they were long in stride.” But instances of this kind, even, which exhibit mountaineer- ing as a necessity rather than as a diversion, must kave been rare in antiquity. While mountain fastnesses afforded shelter in times of war, their loftier summits were by the ancients believed to be the abodes of gods or spirits who were ready to *Dr Badé is the head of the Department of Semitic Languages in the Pacific Theological Seminary at Berkeley. He is editor of the Sierra Club Bulletin and has climbed mountains both here and abroad. 10 The Mountaineer resent an invasion of their domain. Such views survived to quite modern times as in the case of the Matterhorn, and are still held among the more primitive peoples of the earth. The above-mentioned Egyptian inscription contains a prayer to the god Sutekh that he may “dispose to fairness the flood and the cold upon the heights” for the benefit of the Hittite embassy. The modern interest in mountaineering manifested itself first in connection with the awakening spirit of scientific inquiry. The foremost pioneer in this double enterprise was the French-Swiss physicist Horace Benedict de Saussure (1740-1799). In 1787 he chimbed Mont Blane under the guidance of Jacques Balmat, who had gained the summit for the first time a year earlier. Slow but substantial progress was made during the next half-century in laying the foundations for the development of mountain climbing as an art and as a form of sport. But the systematic conquest of summits of first-rate difficulty did not begin until the second half of the nineteenth century. Coincident with this new phase of alpinism came the organization of various alpine clubs. First among them was the English Alpine Club founded in 1857. Its organization was followed by the Austrian Alpine Club in 1862, the Italian and Swiss Alpine Clubs in 1863, the German Alpine Club in 1869, and the French Alpine Club in 1874. North America joined the procession in 1876 with the organization of the Appalachian Mountain Club. But the Pacific Slope, with its misty camps of mountains trailing in tumultuously diversified chains from the icefields of Alaska to the warmth of tropic seas, is destined to be the future arena of American mountaineering. The Sierra Club of Cali- fornia, the Mazamas of Oregon, and the Mountaineers of Wash- ington already have well established organizations and an enthusistic membership. Upon these clubs has fallen the respon- sibility of directing alpestrian sentiment and energy on this coast. It is proper that they should ask themselves whether the history of alpine sport, brief as it is, may not suggest new lines of endeavor which have never been fully realized. The plasticity of our western life, unexploited fields of nature study, uniquely favorable climatic conditions, and the existence of national parks big enough for kingdoms in Europe, present advantages which no alpine club of the Old World has ever enjoyed. The highest function of a mountain club must always consist in the encouragement it affords to the noblest and The Mountaineer La cleanest of all sports. It accords well with this primary interest that it should work for the establishment and preservation of national parks where people may camp unhindered and live to the full that outdoor life which is so necessary to their highest physical and intellectual health. Where such parks have already been established the pecuniary rewards of power development will for a long time render them subject to invasion by power grabbers. Only large organizations, created for disinterested ends and vigilant on behalf of the public, can hope to interpose an effective check to corporate greed. It is fitting that the stimulus which the awakened scientific imagination gave to the art of mountaineering in its infancy should in these days of its relative maturity lead to the cultiva- tion of certain scientific interests that can be most fruitfully pursued amid the free life of the forests and the mountains. The publication of accurate information regarding the trails, passes, and topography of a mountain region is certainly one of the tasks to which a mountain club should address itself. Next in order comes the study of the silva and flora of our mountains. The botanical survey of many of our western mountain regions is still very imperfect. Almost any moun- taineer with a good eye and a fair knowledge of botany can make a valuable contribution. When all the species have been described and classified there remains the even more interesting task of studying the ecology of mountain plants, their adapta- tion to their environment and to each other. Particularly interesting from the point of view of plant geography are the bryophytes and liverworts that inhabit the higher altitudes. Some of them at least may prove to be sur- vivors from past ages of the world’s geological history. Certain isolated peaks are found to be veritable islands of plants that live only at certain altitudes, and which, co-incident with the disappearance of arctic conditions after the ice age, were left stranded on the mountain tops like sailors after a shipwreck. Any expert bryologist would be delighted to receive and report on specimens of mosses secured during an ascent and carefully labeled as to date, altitude, and place, and the character of the substratum on which they were found growing. Reports or descriptions of this nature could be printed from time to time in the club publications, which would thereby, in time, become indispensable sources of reference for special investigators. 12 The Mountaineer When the rarer and more exquisite flowering plants of a given region and their habitat have become known, a great service to practical aesthetics and to the enjoyment of future generations might be rendered, on the one hand by preventing their ruthless destruction and extinction by the thoughtless, and on the other by transplanting and spreading them into regions where they are not now found. It is to be hoped that the time is approaching when every mountain club will have a committee, or sub-organization, that shall give particular atten- tion to the conservation of our wild flowers. The lasting good effect of activity along such lines would soon become apparent in our national parks. What is true of the flora applies in equal measure to the fauna and avifauna. At a little dinner recently, the writer heard the distinguished diplomatist and statesman, James Bryce, express the opinion that children and young people should be taught to take an intelligent and sympathetic interest in the lives of our furred and feathered friends of the mountains and forests; that in this way the natural instincts of childhood ean be turned to account for the conservation of our rapidly disappearing wild life. Recent investigations have shown that certain birds and mammals of the Pacific Coast are disappearing so fast that unless something is done at once to check their destruction by hunters they will become extinct in a very short time. The mourning dove and the band-tailed pigeon, for instance, are so reduced in numbers now that they bid fair to follow the pas- senger pigeon to extinction. A number of California organiza- tions, including the Sierra Club, have by representatives organized themselves into a Committee on the Conservation of Wild Life. Their endeavor will be to secure immediate legisla- tive action in the most urgent cases. It may properly be regarded as one of the higher functions of a mountain club to give sup- port to such movements, and to encourage and commend such rare philanthropic acts as the recent purchase of Marsh Island in the Gulf of Mexico, by Mrs. Russell Sage, to be dedicated as a guarded refuge for the migratory birds of America. This island had long been the most popular haunt of the southern market gunner, because shore birds flocked to it by the million —only to be slaughtered. There remains to be mentioned the recreational use of The Mountaineer ile: alpine regions in winter time. Recent years have witnessed a remarkable development of winter sports in different parts of the world, especially in Switzerland. The great possibilities of this relatively new form of recreation were forcibly brought to the writer’s attention two years ago during a midwinter sojourn in the Alps. Thousands upon thousands of tourists were com- ing from every part of Europe to engage in the sports and to enjoy the scenery of the mountains in winter. The most fre- yuented resorts were situated at altitudes ranging from five to seven thousand feet. During January skee-parties made ascents to altitudes of ten thousand feet and over. Anyone who has observed this trend of outdoor recreation will agree that the winter use of national parks will in the near future come to reinforce the summer use, as surely as morning succeeds night. Snow-shoeing, skeeing, tobogganing, skating, and mountain climbing will claim their enthusiastic devotees. From the sea-level Californian among his ever-blooming roses to the hardy Canadian of the frosty north, the men and women of our Pacific Coast are beginning to hear the call of the snowy pine, of the frozen lake, and of those glistening summits which have a new charm under wintry skies. It will prove a noble function of our mountain clubs to stimulate and foster this love of the heights when the north wind roars. LITTLE TAHOMA O crag-crowned peak, I hail thee once again! Once more thy lofty crest breeds fresh surprise. At rest in hanging garden, flower-warmed glen, O’er waves of ice I lift my wistful eyes And hail thee; O, I hail thee once again! O jagged spire, I hail thee once again! ’Twas here thy Mother Chaos gave thee birth To guard thy sire from vulgar feet of men, And yet, I brave long silent lanes of earth To hail thee; O, I hail thee once again! Edmond S. Meany 14 The Mountaineer THE MOUNTAINEERS’ OUTING ON THE NORTH SIDE OF MT. RAINIER* Mary PascHALL Briefly, the plan for the 1912 outing of the Mountaineers: was to skirt the highest mountain of the State along its eastern and northern slopes, to explore there its least-known parks and glaciers, and finally to scale the great peak itself. All this sounded most alluring to the fifty-five club members, under the leadership of William H. Gorham, who left Seattle on the morn- ing of July 20 to spend three long weeks where the breezes blow fresh from the snows of Rainier (Tacoma). With the usual joyous good-bys at the depot the trip began, our special car continuing to hum like a bee tree all the way to Lavender, where the dunnage was put off with us to await the coming of the pack train. Through a cloud of dust, at the turn of the road a half hour later, came the rhythmic beat of many hoofs mingled with the clamor of neck bells, chiming to our ears a very paean of delight. Presently they appeared shaking their manes, and a cheer went up to greet as valiant a band of little horses as ever bore pack saddles. In front rode Anderson, powerful even in repose, while “Brud,” on his beautiful bay, dashed here and there meeting old friends. Four other packers, rounding up the stragglers, gave promise of what might be expected of them on the day to come, when twenty burden bearers would struggle up the fearful rock stairway of the Frying Pan, leaving our littlest wobbly eolt beside the ford. But we were all unconscious of dangers ahead, it was enough for us to be going back to the hills. Up the Granite Canyon trail, camp was pitched near a spring at the headwaters of Tanenum Creek, and every member of the party straightway began looking for a room in the only inn that is never full. Half the joy of the march is in the magnificence of these bedrooms roofed by the sky. At Summer- land it was possible to reach out of one’s sleeping bag and pluck *Outing Committee: Wm. H. Gorham, A. H. Brackett, Fred Q. Gorton. Plate ile MOUNTAINEERS’ CAMP IN SUMMERLAND Chas. 8. Gleason show- Elevation 6800 feet. View looking west from ‘‘men’s quarters,’ ing Little Tahoma and Mt. Rainier, on the sky line; the Frying Pan glacier flowing from Little Tahoma north and joining the White glacier, in the middle distance; the nose of the middle fork of the Frying Pan and the site of Mountaineers’ Camp No. 7, July 27-30, 1912, in the foreground. lp bien 550 Aa De ee eth A ah a ne yet af biet yoy vib na Py i 7 ae ba vdis 4? a de i) ie ay ites al : wi ai elie ova: La ON ; ity pratt thas } % Ges, J ¥ Ly ve 47 i are. ar NAIR NAR EME om) ey: sti See wre te m a (RAR iy , ; 4 ¥ =P > z : yO Se aie el } 4 f) i ni 4 The Mountaineer ily the flowers; on the heights of Spokwush meadows, one could almost reach the stars. Following the backbone of the Manastash ridge next day, night brought us to Quartz Creek, where the first Sunday service was held. The second was in Summerland, the last in Grand Park, each temple of worship more beautiful than the last. The main highways among the mountains, pursued alike by animals, railroads, and mountaineers, are the water courses. Most of the trails, indeed, have taken their names from their river companions. Winding down the southern slope of the ridge through the mottled trunks of the yellow pines, one instinctively looks for the Naches, and dropping into the valley, emerges suddenly from the timber into an open meadow knee- deep in flowers. Beyond runs the river, clear-eyed, singing its way toward the sea; from rift to cataract, from pool to dream- ing pool, it flows among the rock-ribbed hills. Where is there a spot where larkspur nods a deeper blue or berries hang heavier? The ford that July morning witnessed the approach of both divisions of the army at once, the horses emerging sud- denly from the copse, rushed eagerly to quench their thirst, then splashed on not to lose their places in the brave calvacade ; while slowly winding along the rocky palisade above moved “the line,” an iridescent ribbon of color. One can not think of a summer’s outing without recalling the camp-fires, yet how is it possible to picture the spirits that enter into the fire-lit circle? The lost art of story telling here returns and brings with it original verse and song to fill to overflowing this breezy chapter of life’s out-door holiday. Sit- ting on the ground at the Forks of the Trail, the gathering place of forgotten tribes of Indians, we listened to their simple stories of earth and sky; heard again their footfalls by the river; and watched the fires that glowed and died before our own was kindled. Through the closing songs of those star-lit nights ran the old, old melody of comradeship, filling all the dark till the very trees clapped their hands and the surrounding hills took up the strain and broke forth into singing. The Crowe Creek trail, leaving the Naches, rises steadily for nearly three thousand feet. Through the silvery trees of the ghost forest the majestic Fifes Peaks can be seen for many miles. Near Echo Lake we were joined by the Caesar party of The Mountaineer pod 19/6) Tacoma, and continuing through Bear Gap found Mr. Brackett and Mr. Corey with thirty-five hundred pounds of provisions. Filing through the rocky portals of an unnamed pass, the party made a rapid descent toward the east fork of the White, rum- bling mightily far below. There is an exhilaration of motion in these glacial rivers always fascinating and we were glad to be eamped near by for a day, while our “trail gang” slashed a way by which the pack train might reach Summerland. On the morning of the eighth day hope ran high. The whistle blew the signal to start and “the line” filed away on the Glacier Basin trail to the junction of the White and the Frying Pan rivers. Crossing the turbid stream, the ascent be- gan up a rugged valley, closed on one side by a sheer wall of rock, on the other by close-set trees, while far above and beyond loomed our mountain, dazzling, wonderful. The Frying Pan River, scarcely started in its headlong race, chanted still the songs learned in subterranean galleries under the blue ice of the glacier. Up and higher up toiled the little company. It was hard to hold us back now with the breath of the hills in our nostrils and the hill flowers pressing against our feet. After a final scramble up the last hundred yards, the miniature park itself burst into view; its jutting headlands guarded by turrets of living green were spread for us with carpets of crimson and violet embroidered in gold. We were home at last in Summerland. Here Carr made plans to kill for us the fatted ealf, and here also came the first try-out on snow, when the che-cha-kos, standing at the top of a dizzy white slope and told to coast down, balanced first on one foot and then on the other in an agony of indecision whether to try it standing or sitting. They made at last a bold effort, one and all, started scientifical- ly as instructed, using the alpenstock as a rudder and a brake, but missing the trick somewhere, capsized desperately and reached the foot of the declivity rolling like animated boulders from an avalanche. Among the most striking impressions of these altitudes are the sky-line pictures. Sometimes it is a silhouette pack train or a nodding company of plumed anemones, and occasionally a band of mountain goats drifting upward along the horizon of a ridge. On the tenth day out while we were halted for lunch on the margin of a snow field, there appeared across the deep valley a solitary messenger. It proved to be the man detailed Plate IV. RURAL .FREE On July 29, 1912. the Mountaineers were met on the snow DELIVERY IN fields near Urania glacier by Park-ranger Longmire with THE MOUNTAINS mail from Paradise Park. a S. V. Bryant hy the park superintendent to meet the party and bring them word from the great outside world. With breathless interest his progress was watched as step by step he moved down the slope. “How beautiful on the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings.” Could it have been the altitude that set our hearts to beating as the precious mail bag was unstrapped and one by one we heard our names as one hears inadream? Standing upon the snow, each with his news from home, there was no spoken word, the silence wrapped us as a cloak, those enhungered were satisfied. Breaking camp the following morning, the opportunity came for a brief study of the great White glacier, the longest in the United States. The sweep of its tremendous body and its grip on the mountain made one think of some prehistoric reptile. Of especial interest were the balanced rocks and the ice needles, scarcely less striking than the seraes on the Win- throp. Arriving at Glacier Basin a most unique try-out was made to Camp Curtis under the leadership of Professor Flett. We had volunteered to carry fagots above timber line, in order to have a commissary fire when on the main climb; some of us were inwardly sorry of our bargains before we were through. In fact, those sticks had a fashion of increasing in weight every few hundred yards. But who can forget the glimpse of heaven 20 The Mountaineer and earth from that eerie camping spot above the clouds or the delight of the descent into Glacier Basin across the face of Inter-Glacier ? Northeast of St. Elmo Pass and directly opposite the point where the glacier changes suddenly to a river and goes roaring and foaming down the mountain, stands a small pyramid of irregular rocks. It was at this spot that the seeds of the cherished edelweiss of the beautiful Bavarian Alps were planted with appropriate ceremony on August first by the women of the 1912 outing of the Mountaineers. In the Mountaineer Bul- letin of April of this year will be found a copy of the letter from Mr. Anton Lang, the donor, together with a short sketch of the traditional significance of this courageous little flower of the Alps, that dares to bloom upon the mountain tops. In improvised costume, the spirit of Bavaria in the name of her country presented the seeds which were graciously accepted by the spirit of the mountains of America, after which they were gently laid away in the brown mould, awaiting the time when the sun in heaven should wake them into life. There is a charm, an atmosphere, that surrounds all planting, from the grain of wheat to the oak tree; here was the added dignity of a mountain clothed in perpetual snow, standing guard over a treasure almost intangible yet associated with all that makes life significant. The few spoken words and the simple verses on the edelweiss, expressed the hope of a people whose free- dom rings indeed from every mountainside! On August first, after hearing the reports of the Major Ingraham party and of the four scouts sent on the preliminary climb, to the effect that snow conditions were extremely bad on the north side of the mountain this year, the main party took the trail for Grand Park by way of Lodii basin. The ascent of the mountain was made by nine men. Judged by almost any standard one can not be disappointed in Grand Park. A tableland six thousand feet high, it contains more than one thousand acres where the clean winds sweep across the levels and play forever in and out among the perfect groups of alpine firs. To look at sunset across this immense flowery plain at Mt. Rainier is to know it as a new peak and rejoice in the acquaintance. He is fortunate indeed who has thus seen it crowned in the gigantie cloud hood that promises storm. We fully realized the warning that was given us on VI. Plate Plate V. ‘SIGL ‘F “SnV Udy} MOA PRY PIN FO ptensae bee ¥ 4 UL PUL AY ou H ot} WO AOPUTR YA a jo asou ay} ay JIN pu co) | a} tosRely GQNWIMGNWOS NOW S ‘suyo MOGTA WLIOY Uoo[q ey MUVd ANVUY 4 i “4 : ¢ nity es!) sii , Oy, a ‘ ie ae Lees tee ae Bie . ' i wey ae rb Pear 3. ‘ c sar The Mountaineer 23 leaving the park, when three days later the hood became an umbrella and we were just beneath the drip. Down the Winthrop and up Van Horn Creek to Spokwush meadows, one is surrounded with vistas. Toward the west from the divide across the torrent-scarred ridges, appears the snowy line of the Olympics, a mile below stands the gray arch of the great stone bridge, while to the south of the valley rise the rich red turrets of the ruined castles of the Sluiskins. Before the blazing campfire, one of our geologists interpreted part of the story from the great stone book that for many days had been spread before our eyes on the rocks and glaciers of this typical voleanic peak, a story as old as the hills indeed, yet ever new and full of interest. Morning came in one saffron sheet, unrolled beyond seven ranges of foothills. Reluctantly we packed and started to breakfast. The women had been asked to bring down their dunnage and there immediately en- sued a wild scramble as the bags were released on the heights above commissary. Rolling, bouncing, hurtling downward, they made straight for the fire or the stream. Shouts rent the air at every fresh catapault from above and cheer upon cheer for the hero who dared to stop the missile. From Chenuis Mountain to Spray Park is not far hori- zontally, but we alas, measured the distance up and down, so there was but time for an afternoon’s acquaintance, a last look at our mountain of mountains, a last rest on our beloved heather, a last race across the snow, and we were off down the trail toward the Carbon river. The very heavens wept at our departure, and such a down- pour! Yet despite the soaking, it was a right jolly company that gathered that night in Ranger O’Farrel’s hospitable cabin to celebrate Christmas in August, with a real illuminated tree and a most real Santa Claus in a fur coat to distribute the gifts. One more campfire, ending with a “hob-nail dance” in the deserted mining town of Hillsboro, a coveted opportunity to study the coal mine now being actively operated at Fairfax, and we boarded the special car. This time the hill mud clung visibly to our shabby and beloved boots and with it the joy of all that we found, in those wonderful playgrounds among the eternal peaks. Plate VII. THE MOUNTAINEERS SUMMER OUTING i942 JULY 20 TO AUG 10 INCLUSIVE SCALE ! 2 3 + Ss 6 7 —————————S——— MILES s/ / \9 ry piel “Kk \ 4 // XS ¥ \ eal BOUNSARY (riste. a ae RAWIER NE co ' Man’ Aas of Po) *e, Ie ae. aly, steet’> * ee. 5 mal ni HS SCN ed igs ers 0 fab CRMC dill ( xs emis a) iy Wh thy, 6 me Wyss ork Spe Ca 75 ' Al Plate VIII. \ qulwy, wl, > wy wa’ WWM YA ity ZANT, Wy “\ (1 iMG ‘ fg re lie ag oy woe re um-~C7e Naches Pass 4 y VK S Sa NW Wee ANN Wa uy li Alig TINS NS Doe dy ua Ws ean We Nive Mm. eS = — \ i= = Sas a ) ‘se r UAIOWID dOUHINIM AHL NO ASSVAMUO V SopMONS! 928k "0086 USE Sale — ABNOR DIE eee ee Pav “AH LOSIWAYOW Wd LINWOS FHL OL WLOOU GAL B.S AD eid ; pes aia Day 7) > Shy ow eet < ae , - . on Aa soil a *" ; MAR ~ " += ait ; Pie tin! YY oh A, - se thiee en Sb ue nf We pare ‘Ay Raete: kit Sc aL eget a eye oe at ay se a ie ae RAT ith ea cie Sika : (nse ie he mY 2 inn “i The Mountaineer al taken during the ascent, but they do scant justice to the won- derful snow and ice formations, dreadful in their fantastic beauty. The members of our party agreed that each man should in turn break or chop steps as necessary, which plan was adhered to throughout the climb, the present worker falling in at the rear when his “trick” was ended, the second in line succeeding him. No special precautions were taken, each person seeming capable of caring for himself. The mascot of the journey was an emergency bandage, which was not used. One regulation army canteen of oatmeal water supplied two men. This mix- ture proved much superior to either tea or undiluted water. Our route to a point within one thousand feet of the crater was identical with that of the scouts who had been sent from the main body two days previously, with the object of ascer- taining the most feasible way to conduct a large number to the top. On these dangerous climbs nothing is left to chance. At an elevation of more than thirteen thousand feet they had encountered a seemingly impassable barrier, a deep crevasse. Professor Flett, whose wide experience on the mountain emi- nently fitted him to be our pilot, now took the lead and non- chalantly “hit” the ugliest looking trail the writer has ever gazed upon. The little band seattering out at intervals in uncertain and wobbly effort to follow leader, the writer was left alone for a few minutes beneath a peculiarly formed impending mass of snow and ice, which imagination easily likened to the jaws of some vast pre-historic monster suddenly frozen by tremendous climatic changes, even in the act of devouring its prey. Stand- ing there sheltered from the wind, no living being in view, the earth obscured by floating mists, there was gained for the first time an appreciation of that “eternal silence of the hills.” In an effort to understand the ambition which drives us into the very jaws of death after such fruitless victories, thought turned upon the glory of man’s achievement in the past, the majesty of his probable destiny. For out of that eternal silence has he come, climbing slowly, painfully, through the countless eons which have vanished in a trackless past. Experience born of the bitterness of misfortune and defeat, his only guide, has taught him how to conquer every obstacle which ignorance and superstititon have thrown across his path, yes, even Death 32 The Mountaineer itself. So the answer came from that restless spirit of conquest, which urges us ever onward to the accomplishment of our destiny, to the ever narrowing confines of the land of the un- known. A shout of triumph echoes through the mountain fastness, a passage has been discovered. True the way is dangerous, but it leads to success and what else matters? One portion con- formed much too closely in general contour to the inverted let- ter V and for a while we experienced a most unseemly envy of - the fly and his various appliances designed for sticking fast. Moreover, to give additional comfort, nature had flanked us with two beautiful and very commodious crevasses, the whole furnishing a short and slippery path to that country of golden harps and milk and honey; the praises of which are so often sung by those who have never crossed its confines, and into the realms of which we are so eager that the other fellow should enter. A snow bridge crossed, we approached the upper levels of that graceful, dazzling sweep known as the saddle, guarded by Columbia Crest and Russell Peak. Here the slopes were less precipitous and the snow softer, due probably to recent falls. The hour hand (also the inner man) now indicated one o’clock and we began anxiously to peer about for the celebrated steam caves promised us by Professor Flett. I fail to recall the pre- vailing idea entertained of those apartments, but our doughty leader had hinted of hissing steam and sulphurous gases, so we expected a large and commanding archway bearing the celebrated legend; mayhap a little devil to receive wraps and a hot lunch seasoned a la Mexicano. Sad disillusionment! We scrambled, or fell, through a jagged opening in the ice erust into a spooky cavern most comfortably warm and so moist with the condensing steam that our clothes were soon bedewed with glistening drops. Sure enough the steam was escaping in jets through various open- ings among the rocks and we had the unique and most enjoy- able experience of scraping the snow with tin cups from the roof of our house, placing in the icy mixture a cube of con- densed bouillon, putting the utensil on the floor over a jet of escaping steam, and in five minutes detecting with eager nostril the delicious aroma of boiling beef tea. And this at an eleva- tion of fourteen thousand feet, under the eternal snows of Mt. Rainier. While perched upon a warm rock munching a most Plate XI. CROSSING Showing the Mountaineers returning from Camp Curtis, elevation INTERGLACIER 10,000 feet, to camp in Glacier basin, July 31, 1912. Inter- H. V. Abel glacier is a hanging glacier between the Winthrop and the oe, 3 White, but not connected with either, nor with the great ice cap on the summit. a, higher t yey Vl ws den roel 8) Kye ba) a ‘ oh Oi ot ed oe sae Pare as nae Te A a) ae ee ik Nay Sa Cobia ethan amt e gps Oi mal Beet be bbe PRIOR ie? itt irre: Bh et he pad Sate ae cee, wee POEENGU: 7 a, Pipe | iciaiips WAY 20th tN Re ae o on ui ae eat wey fgihs ee ; a ~*~ calf milbe ey AAS wath: Teed. panes i Bas ei Pes eri Pm 08) an. aren aba Te", *¥) The Mountaineer 35 delicious lunch, we idly wondered how long it would take to complete the process of parboiling, should a miniature ava- lanche suddenly deposit us in some remote corner of the cavern. The presence of steam caves is easily explained. The snow falling on warm surfaces at higher altitudes is reduced to water, runs through the still hot rocks of the extinct volcano, and escapes as steam at various points below the snow crust, which is melted in the immediate vicinity of the jets, forming a cave. Luncheon over, we scrambled again to the upper world and continued our arduous journey, soon encountering a wide mar- gin of small loose rocks extending downward from the rim of the crater, possibly two hundred feet, and swept entirely clear of snow. This, as viewed from Camp Curtis, appears a faint, dark band around the summit. The party reached the crater at three-fifteen o’clock and there across the comparatively level area of the smaller crater was our goal, the semi-spherical, snow-clad Columbia Crest. A few minutes and we stood upon the pinnacle of Rainier’s icy mantle. eee rene aug a pithy: “at ERLE ree hs Roteuectantien S1Be Seana Sp sce aah