U-e--rrre Coast.Eng Fes. Ctr. MR 81-4 Movable-Bed Laboratory Experiments Comparing Radiation Stress and Energy Flux Factor as Predictors of Longshore Transport Rate by Philip Vitale MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 81-4 APRIL 1981 WHO! DOCUMENT COLLECTION , oe Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER TC. Kingman Building Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060 Clee USel Me oi-4¢ hae! Reprint or republication of any of this material shall give appropriate credit to the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center. Limited free distribution within the United States of single copies of this publication has been made by this Center. Additional copies are available from: Nattonal Techntcal Informatton Service ATTN: Operattons Divtston 5285 Port Royal Road Springfteld, Virginta 22161 Contents of this report are not to advertising, publication, or promotional Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial be used for purposes. products. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents. TTT 008982 OTN UNCLASSIFIED SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When JRITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Ente Entered) READ INSTRUCTIONS REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE BERORHICOMEDEINGIRORM REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER “MR 81-4 4’. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED MOVABLE-BED LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS COMPARING Miscellaneous Report RADIATION STRESS AND ENERGY FLUX FACTOR AS PREDICTORS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER 6. 7. AUTHOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s) Philip Vitale 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS D31193 REPORT DATE april 1981 Siusiee OF PAGES PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS Department of the Army Coastal Engineering Reserch Center (CERRE-CS) Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 Gs 11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS Department of the Army Coastal Engineering Research Center Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 Ta. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & ADDRESS(if different from Controlling Office) 15. SECURITY CLASS. (of thia report) UNCLASSIFIED 15a. DECL ASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRADING SCHEDULE Approved for public release, distribution unlimited. 16. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of this Report) . DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abstract entered in Block 20, if different from Report) - SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES . KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number) Energy flux Movable-bed experiments Longshore transport rate Radiation stress ABSTRACT (Continue on reverse side if necesaary and identify by block number) The results of three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests are used to empirically relate the longshore sediment transport rate to the radiation stress and the longshore energy flux factor. Both correlate equally well with the longshore transport rate, producing correlation coefficient squared values of approximately 0.70. The surf similarity parameter also shows a strong influence on the longshore transport rate. DD , aes 1473 = EDrTion OF 1 NOV 65 1S OBSOLETE UNCLASSIFIED SS SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) oven lara lak frm min aap espera ot uA BGO mes 4 Sao Si eeuer sinha ee uit ar Sate f { E a ears : a ok aT is VF i ., eae : 2 b 4 ry AS eae! a ee VE ; u Sj ie 1 Atal als tom cil hn image Fa yaa, past hy ), poe hienime TR Aa toa diy enn Poco ienlns veri tana terpnien dhemhaa em (fee ig sue citi seat ae PY al ome a xg Bh kd uangedieyeesiegs aise sae : can pce eh pm 3 “tit AN 6? ge Hess ee a eee nopnianeainy stn ie interme ee ee rt ey edo ai a te yom toting ‘ 5 amelie’ _Wth AGW: igo te AP ice VP eel’, aaa Sacul ’ Ys ie: oe paank queen. ah} preci L apy a ie tp ke : 2 ise “Seog ere sib } \ LAL } wa kieml : pie vo — mifiee ob hilar chy artnet td oa ih eo pte Broo oA, sO Hen eae #6: ome “a Nat fectten Several i" eh ati i, toh, aad 9 bye ee) ae ee VXe pee Winugibbenelat ieee’ lib abubelh eT Te a biore ote At 4 : PL! eoeeAn leek “atta, oF Cha AD aera er hiagtt |. lhe Pe St Me ae a sdiceicihalpt iden inmen ir bisa gibi heii fon 1x wien pil Phere epee t iPS wh Uta AAPL Rat), Deere ee ee a ie ean’ ‘The bia V's 6) PREFACE This report is published to provide coastal engineers insight into the important coastal process of longshore transport along sandy beaches by pre- senting the results of three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests. It is hoped that future studies will expand on the analyses of the data in this report. The report was prepared under the nearshore sediment transport research program of the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC). The report was written by Philip Vitale, Hydraulic Engineer, under the general supervision of Dre ReM. Sorensen, Chief, Coastal Processes and Structures Branch, Research Division. The author acknowledges C. Galvin, RP. Savage, and RP. Stafford for their assistance and advice in the design and operation of the experiment, and M.S. Bartolomei, SL. Douglas, Be Keely, M. Koenig, MW. leffler, J.G. Tingler, J. Sullivan, K.P. Zirkle, and, in particular, L.O. Tornese for their help in collecting and analyzing the data. Comments on this publication are invited. Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, ggth Congress, approved 7 November 1963. f/ : ED E. WISHOP Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director IV VI VIL APPENDIX A B C D E F CONTENTS CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)ececcsccccccces SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS. ccccccccccc cc ccc ccc cc cre ceo cece cece cece INTRODUCTLONec coccccccccec ccc ccc ccc ecco ces c cero ccc e ere eee oreo oeseee EMPIRICAL RELATIONSccccccccccccccccccccevccc ccc ccc ccc ccc cer eccee le Momentum Fluxccccceccccccccc cc ccc ce cccceccvccccvcc cece cceee 2. Energy Fluxccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ccc ccc coer eeecccce 3. Longshore Transport Rate€ecccccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccee 4. Empirical RelationSeccccccccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccsscee 5. Surf Similarity ParameteTrececcecccccccccecccccvccccccccccce EXPERIMENTAL SETUPc cccccccccccc ccc ccc cccv ccc ccs ccccc ces ccc ccccee 1. Basin Layouteccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccccceccccccce 2. GENETACOLSecccceccecccccccccceccecvccccvccccv esse vcccecccccee 3. Sand—Moving SysteMeccccceccccccccsvccccccvccccecvccccccccce Ae IMStrumMentSeccecceccccccccrcccccccceccccccccceseccccccevcccce 5e Dye Injectionecccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccceevecccccce 66 Sand SUZCeccvccvccccccccecc ccc ec cece sce eee rece cee eee ee ele elec EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE ccccccccccccccccccccrccc cc vcc cc cv ccc cc cecce le Hourly Cyclecccccccccccccccccscvccccccccccsvccceersccccccee 2. Daily Cyclecocccccccccccccccccccscccccccccccccccccccecveccce 3. Test Cycleccccccccccccccceccccccccscccecccccccccveccccceece 4e Range of VariableSecccccccccccccccc cre cc vec c ccc eevcee ce ecce DATAccccccccccccc ccc ccc cece cove eer eer eos eveeeseoooce core eeeeee 1. Hourly and Daily Data in Appendix Acccccccccccccccccccccccs 2. Summary Data Tablecccccccecccccccccccccccccccccccecccccccce 3. Survey Dataccocceccccccccccccccscccscscccccccccecccccccccece 4. Overhead PHOCOScecccceccccc ccc ccc cere esse sec er eereece eee leee® DATA ANALYSIS cccccccccc ccc cc cccccccccccccscesccccscecceccccccces 1. Calculation of Sy wc c ccc cc cccccccccc cece ccc cccsccecccescces 2. Calculation of Poprrsescecrssccccccccccccecccccccccccccccccs 3. Calculation Of Ecccccccvcccccccvcccccccceccccccccevcccccvccs 4. Special TestScccccccccccccccccccccsccccccccccccccssecscecce 5. Daily Cycle GraphsSecccccccccccccccccccccccccceececsecreccce 6. Test Cycle GraphSecocccccscccccccccccccccccccccsscceccccces 7. Surf Similarity Relationeccccccccccccccccccccccccvceccccoece 8. Comparison to Past Datdcccccccccccccccccccccccccccvccceccce SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ec ccoccccccccc ccc ccc crc cc ccc eres ese c cee e eee LITERATURE CITEDc ccc ccc cc ccc ccc creer sec ccc cere ere e eee core eo ene eee HOURLY AND DAILY DATAcccccccccccccccvccccscvcececccccecesecveccce BEACH SURVEY DATAcccoccccccccccccccevccccccccccccce sce sve seccnce PLOTTED BEACH PROFILES. ccccccccccccccccccccvecccecececccesevcecce SELECTED BREAKER BAR AND WATERLINE PHOTOS.ccccccccccccccccocccce HOURLY CYCLE CALCULATIONS. ccccccccccccccecccccrcccvecevescseccce DAILY CYCLE CALCULATIONS. cccccccccccccvcvcccccccccccccvesecesccce Page 7 CONTENTS--—Continued TABLES Locations of overhead cameras mounted on the catwalkececccccccccccccce Locations of dye injection by test numberececceccecccccccccccceccccccce Test cycle variables and datacccecccccccccrcccscccccccccccccvsccccccce Example of hourly and daily data tables in Appendix Acccecccccccccccce Test cycle calculationSerccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ccc cccvc0cvce Comparisons of tests 1 and 2ecccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccccccecccccce Daily cycle statisSticSecccccccccccccccccccccvecccscecccccccccccccccecce Test cycle StatisSticSeccceccccccsccccccccrvcccccccccccccccceccccercccos FIGURES Coordinate system for momentum flux derivatioMmeccecccccccccccccceeccce Diagram of test basin SetuPecccrccccccccccccccccccsceccccceccccccccccce Photo of test baSin SeEtUPecccccccccccccccccccscccccccsccccccccccccceces Photo Of Sand traPpoccccccccccecccrccccccccccerccccccccccccccc cc ccccccce Diagram of diffraction analysis used to determine the alongshore length of the test DEaACN ec cccccccccccccccocccccecoeeeeeeccocccceeeeeeceee Shore-normal profile of the test beach, sand trap, concrete aprons, and adjacent TuUbbillGlicccccccccccceee ccc ecececccceeeeeeececccccceeeceeee Coordinate system used for test beach with locations of wave gageSece. Diagram of EductOreccecccccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccccccccsccccee Photo of weighing StatioNececcccccccccrcccccccccvccveseescccssccccvcce Diagram of sand feedereceeccccccccccccccccccccccccccccvcccccecececcces Photo of sand feederececececccceccvevevcccccvevesccccccccccccccve cece Diagram of complete sand-moving SySteMeccceecccsceccceecceecccecsccccce Size distribution of sand used for all teStSececccccccccecccccscccccoce Schematic diagram of the interrelationship of the three experimental CYCLESecccccccccccccccccveccvccccesc veer ecveecs 2000000000 Example of overhead PHOCOccccccccecccccccccccccccecsveseccccccsccscccce Page 24 25 32 34 36 38 38 4] 11 16 1L7/ 18 19 19 20 22 (o> 23 23 24 25 26 27 16 17 18 19 20 ZA 22 23 24 25) 26 27 28 CONTENTS F IGURES--Continued Example of breaking Waveecccccecccccccccccccccccccccccecccccccceccccccce Example of strip-chart wave recordecrceccccceccccccccccccccccccccccccsccce Example of surf zone PphotOSececcccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccece Example series of drainage photOSecccccccecccrcccccccccccccccccceccccce Example of bed-form photOcececccceccccccccccccceccccccccccccccecccccccce Determination of beach slope used to calculate the surf similarity PALTaAMETECTececeecceesccccrccceeescccvsecccsvrescssccescescecccccccce Relation between longshore transport rate, lI», and radiation stress, Sxy? using daily cycle dataccccccccccccccccccccccceccccccccce Relation between longshore transport rate, I,, and longshore energy flux factor, Py,, using daily cycle datacceocccccccccccccccccce Relation between longshore transport rate, I,y, and radiation stress, Sxy» using test cycle datacccccccccccccccccecsccccccvcccvcccce Relation between longshore transport rate, I,, and longshore energy flux factor, Pp,, using test cycle datacccccccccccccccccccccce Relation between K, and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle iaitlaleticlctevel clelel clelelerelelel el cleteleleletelele/elellelel ele cjclcleloleleielelelorerelotolore Relation between K. and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle ACLAcccc eve ccc eee vrec cesses LF2PFCFFECLFFFFFF2FFLOO OOO LOOOOe Comparison of data in this report to past reports, using SPM Figure Ly 33 Gicte: clelelolaleleleletelelele) cloleleveelelcioleieiclelelele clejsleleclelele ellelelecreielelelelelelelefelolelere Page 27 27 29 30 B2 Sd 39 40 41 42 43 43 44 CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SIL) units as follows: inches Ti BSc hi a ae MLS 2054 centimeters square inches 62452 square centimeters cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters feet 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meters square feet 0.0929 square meters cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters yards 0.9144 meters Square yards 0.836 square meters cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters miles 1.6093 kilometers square miles 259.0 hectares knots 1.852 kilometers per hour acres 0.4047 hectares foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters aL esas We O97 1073 kilograms per square centimeter ounces 28235 grams pounds 453.6 grams 0.4536 kilograms ton, long 1.0160 metric tons ton, short 0.9072 metric tons degrees (angle) 0.01745 radians Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelvins! oo——eeeaeaeaSEaoamaoaoSaSoaoaoaoaoaoaoaaBa]aaEeEaEEEEeEEeEeEESESEESEeESSESESESESESESESESESESSESESEEEEEEESSESESSESSESESaEaSaESESESESEEESEESSaaSaaaEEEEEeE——— 1To obtain Celsius (C) temperature readings from Fahrenheit (F) readings, use formula: C = (5/9) (F -32). To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (F -32) + 273.15. SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS ratio of sand volume to total volume of a sand deposit subscript for breaker wave phase velocity wave group velocity water depth median sand size energy density flux of wave energy per alongshore distance acceleration of gravity wave height average wave height root-mean-square wave height significant wave height longshore transport rate in immersed weight per unit time subscript for any point seaward of breaker zone empirical coefficient relating Ip to Po) empirical coefficient relation Ip to Sxy wave number = 2n/L wavelength Latilowote Can tou & subscript for deepwater condition energy flux term longshore energy flux factor as used in this report longshore energy flux factor as used in the SPM longshore transport rate in volume per unit time range of coordinate system defined in Figure 7 SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS--Continued correlation coefficient station of coordinate system defined in Figure 7 radiation stress component (flux of y-momentum in x-direction) wave time period onshore component of water particle velocity alongshore component of water particle velocity coordinate in onshore direction coord coord angle angle angle water wave surf surf mass mass inate in alongshore direction inate in vertical direction between wave crest and shoreline between wave generator and shoreline of beach slope with horizontal surface elevation phase similarity similarity density of density of parameter as used in this report parameter as used in Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) water sand angular frequency of wave = 2n/T ® “" pehee vive. Vet iektiny weais oe ils “fo OIAD. fi Wadins resanietag “ene Wl rite of ee agotlaoor: ah he haunt 70) wie Mal > F bil vatons + a ; Meas © tog aed “pene: mae bends q ele thee ae =H Fi eam ia oSdiomy, thas a Vena ensds), ve eres 4 ice Be | a Vitooluy alointen ton rat Shas Ot nae sie ae 1% wal anne je ig oe ir. i 2 hou at ¥ basen RE Rae Se ae el ta ‘ na A a gt i grees — nedget. a ny Potts sad as 5 ate ; ae as f y rogl-mashiegq ae ke = hae so hiercile, ban ‘Yast ; ee — are r pe: Ura yetee es : ei ad 2 AY) 5 : Ney te Se 2c ke ee Rae be Real x A le an ) sige CEvBT) Yhoabeee’ rss pkecigiest ak fami = yazon 84 5 eg Wee ETD . aden i Bie pater “out es ad a0 vane : ; ’ na if a = RR? LdnBSlioge. energt Flax factor Ge ae ae nike sigs MOVABLE-BED LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS COMPARING RADIATION STRESS AND ENERGY FLUX FACTOR AS PREDICTORS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE by Phtltp Vitale I. INTRODUCTION Three-dimensional movable-bed laboratory tests were conducted to compare radiation stress and energy flux factor as predictors of the longshore sedi- ment transport rate. The tests were performed in the U.S. Army Coastal Engi- neering Research Center's (CERC) Shore Processes Test Basin (SPTB). This report presents derivations ‘of the radiation stress and the energy flux factor, documents the experimental setup and procedure, tabulates most of the data, and performs the data analyses. Many photos were taken during the tests; however, only a few were used in the report. The complete set of test photos is available from CERC's Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC). II. EMPIRICAL RELATIONS The longshore transport data are related empirically to the two expres- sions representing wave conditions. One, radiation stress, is based on momen- tum flux, the other on energy flux. An important concept which is also used in the data analyses is the surf similarity parameter. 1. Momentum Flux. The dependent variable studied here is the longshore transport rate caused by waves approaching the beach; therefore, the consequential momentum term is the onshore flux of alongshore momentum. The derivation of the term follows Longuet-Higgins (1970) which applies the concept of wave momentum flux to the generation of longshore currents. The coordinate system used is shown in Figure 1. The y-axis is along the shoreline, the x-axis is normal to the shoreline and positive shoreward, and the z-axis originates at the stillwater level and is positive upward. Using this system, the onshore flux of alongshore momentum is the flux of y-momentum in the x-direction, S,.. This term is one component of what is commonly called the radiation stress tensor. x Shoreline Figure 1. Coordinate system for momentum flux derivation. ll According to small-amplitude wave theory, the components of the water particle velocity in the x- and y-directions for a wave traveling at an angle, a, to the shoreline (Fig. 1) are, respectively, _H gT cosh [k(z + d)] WS a: —— meOSheaunmcon” cosa (1) _H gT cosh [k(z + d)] ‘ Yay e EEE cos@ sina (2) where H = wave height g = acceleration of gravity T = wave period L = wavelength d = water depth k = wave number 8 = wave phase. The last two terms are defined as 27 Ge cli and 6 = kx - ot where t is time, and w the wave angular frequency 27 wo =— Th The y-momentum (alongshore momentum) per unit volume is pv where p is the water mass densitye The flux of this momentum in the x-direction (onshore) per unit alongshore distance and unit water depth is pvue Inte- grating over the water column and averaging over time produce the mean along- shore momentum flux in the x-direction per unit alongshore distance n oy = _ | dz (3) where the overbar denotes the mean with respect to time and n the water surface elevation. Substituting equations (1) and (2) into (3) and dropping terms of higher than second order produce sina (4) S = CS cosa) C xy 12 where C is the wave phase velocity, C the wave group velocity, and E the wave energy density © 2 pgH = rms Re (5) where H is the root-mean-square (rms) wave height. The term in paren- theses in equation (4) is the flux of wave energy per alongshore distance, F,, assuming straight and parallel bathymetric contours. When zero wave energy dissipation is assumed, F = EC_ cosa = constant (6) x & In this report, dissipation is assumed to be zero up to the breaker zone; therefore, F is constant from deep water to the breaker zone. Since the ratio of sina to C is constant due to Snell's law, equation (4), which represents the alongshore wave momentum entering the surf zone, is constant seaward of the breaker zone. Equation (4) can be revised for application of monochromatic waves, as in this reporte For such wave conditions, the average wave height, H, measured during the tests (and discussed later in Section IV) is equal to H.j.- By rewriting equation (4), og sina Chey = 8 a cosa} ——— (7) S is now defined for use with laboratory monochromatic wave data. Note that equation (4) is valid for any wave condition; equation (7) is valid only for conditions where H equals Hems* 2. Energy Flux. In literature, the longshore transport rate has been empirically related most frequently to a term found by multiplying both sides of equation (4) by the wave phase velocity, C, to yield Bye (EC, cosa) sina (8) Unlike Sy. 5 Po is not constant seaward of the breaker line; therefore, specifying where P, is being calculated is necessary. This report, follow- ing convention, determines Pp at the breaker line, Pie (EC, cosa), sina, (9) representing the value of Pp, at the point closest to where the longshore transport is occurring. The subscript b denotes breaker values. MThe term 13 in parentheses in equation (9) has been shown to be constant (see eq. 6) seaward of the breaker line; therefore, subscript b may be replaced by i which represents any point seaward of the breaker line. Making this change, using. equation (5), and letting Hims equal H for monochromatic waves, equation (9) becomes 2 = (2gH” We Pop ( 8 oy cosa i sino, (10) The Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977) provides a term similar to Pe, except that the wave height used is the significant height, H,- The term, called the longshore energy flux factor, is defined as ipa ) P = 3 C cosa sina b (11) Pp, is derived in Galvin and Schweppe (1980). The relationship between Here and H, has been shown in Longuet-Higgins (1952) to be 2 = 972 Hei yeh (12) assuming a Rayleigh distribution of wave heights as well as a number of other conditions. Therefore, P P ns Ni 2 aD (13) Since Po, and P are essentially the same terms, this report uses the SPM terminology and refers to Pp} as the longshore energy flux factor. 3. Longshore Transport Rate. The longshore transport rate, Q, given in the SPM in units of volume per unit time, is also commonly shown as_ I with units of immersed weight per unit time. The relationship between the two is Mn (Go) 119) E24 (14) where p, is the mass density of sand and a" the ratio of sand volume to total volume of a sand deposit, which takes into account the sand porosity. For discussions of equation (14), see Komar and Inman (1970) and Galvin (1979). Since the laboratory tests described here measured I, directly, this term is used in most of the data analysis. 14 4. Empirical Relations. The expressions derived in the preceding paragraphs are used to set up the following empirical relations Tp = KP eb (15) and iy = athe (16) where K and K, are coefficients to be determined from the test data in this report. Equation (15) is based on the concept that the work done in moving the sand alongshore is proportional to the energy which approaches the beach. The units are consistent and K is dimensionless. Equation (16) is based on the concept that the sand transported alongshore depends on the alongshore force exerted by the wave motion on the bed inside the surf zone. By the equation of motion, this force is related to the change of momentum inside the surf zonee The alongshore momentum, S,., enters the surf zone through the breaker line but cannot exit through ‘the shoreline boundary. Therefore, the change in alongshore momentum is Sxy and equation (16) results. K, has dimensions of length over time. 5- Surf Similarity Parameter. Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) showed that K and K, are dependent upon the surf similarity parameter, Boe _tan B (17) 1/2 (H,/L,) in which tan 8 is the beach slope, Hp the breaker height, and Ly the deepwater (d/L > 1/2) wavelength. Ep reflects variations in beach shape, breaker type, and rate of energy dissipation. Using the results of laboratory tests, the following relationships were found by Kamphuis and Readshaw K P Ks OsO8Es foe Oath KB, < 1025 (19) rd 0-7E, oie Wolk K BK hod (18) For values of €&, higher than the upper limits, Kp and K, become inde- pendent of €})- The surf similarity parameter is evaluated in this report to determine its effect on the longshore transport rate. III. EXPERIMENTAL SETUP This section discusses the setup in the SPTB (Figs. 2 and 3) and describes the wave generators, wave gages, and cameras and their positions. Also dis- cussed are the sand-moving system, the method for measuring the longshore current velocity, and the size distribution of the sand used in the experi- ment. The design of the setup was based in large part on Fairchild (1970). 15 ednjes utseq 3s09 jo weasetq °7 o1in3Ty $10}DJQU3a9 BADM S}JOM Buiuiosy uoidy 8}919U09) }}14PUMOG yo0ag 4sa, uojdy 3}319U0) }y!4pdn dd3, puos Japaaj puos ajqqny yo0aqy2Dg uol}04¥S Burybiam Day uoljisodaq Asojuawajddns a1qqny 16 Wave Generafors Figure 3. Photo of test basin setup. 1. Basin Layout. A diagram of the basin setup is shown in Figure 2. The basin is 45.72 meters long, 30.48 meters wide, and 1.22 meters deep. The alongshore and the shore-normal directions of the sand beach were 7.62 and 11.45 meters, respec tively. The backbeach was 3.05 meters in the shore-normal direction, but it was not part of the test beach. Immediately downdrift of the beach was the sand trap, 0.91 meter wide and 12.7 centimeters deep (Fige 4), used to catch the longshore transporte Concrete aprons, 4.57 meters in the alongshore direction, were located on the downdrift side of the sand trap and on the updrift side of the beach. The updrift apron provided enough distance for the longshore current to develop between the updrift training wall and the beach. This phenomenon is discussed in Galvin and Eagleson (1965). The downdrift apron served two purposes-——one as a platform for depositing the longshore transport that escaped the trap, the other as a surface on which the waves traveled to diminish diffraction effects since no downdrift training walls were used. The major limitation in the experimental planning was the size of the SPTB, which permitted three wave generators, each 6.10 meters long, to be linked together and leave enough room to be rotated through various angles to the beach. The other limitation was the decision not to use downdrift train- ing walls due to the wave reflection problem. When downdrift training walls are used, the wave energy, which is reflected off the beach at an angle in the downdrift direction, strikes the downdrift wall and is reflected back toward the updrift direction. The energy is then reflected by the updrift wall and the process repeats. The reflected wave energy is being trapped within the 17 ’ Reference. ~~ Figure 4. Photo of sand trap. two walls; this produces some complicated wave variability problems (eceg., see Fairchild, 1970). With no downdrift training walls, the reflected wave energy moves away from the beach area into the outer parts of the test basin where most of it is eventually dissipated by the rubble slope along the edge of the basin (Fig. 2). This, however, creates a problem with wave diffrac- tion. The energy of the wave leaving the generator spreads laterally into still water and gradually decreases the wave height toward the updrift end of the wave crest. To minimize the decrease in wave height over the test beach, it was designed using the diffraction diagram for a wave traveling past a semi- infinite breakwater from Figure 2-33 of the SPM. The period and angle used in the diffraction analysis were 3 seconds and 10°, respectively, since these values produced the maximum diffraction closest to the beach. The spreading of wave energy into the shadow of a breakwater is analogous to the spreading of wave energy into the area of the test basin downdrift of the generators. The diagram (Fig. 5) indicated that the alongshore length of the beach should be 7.62 meters. Most of the diffraction-caused decrease in wave height occurs over the downdrift concrete apron. Rubble, ranging in size from 7.62 to 15.24 centimeters, was placed at several locations in the basin to absorb wave energy and provide gradual slopes between the concrete aprons and the basin floor. The beach, sand traps, concrete aprons, and adjacent rubble were all built to the same shore- normal profile (Fig. 6). This profile was based on Chesnutt's (1978) long- term two-dimensional tests in which waves were run onto a sand beach to determine profile response. After superposing several of Chesnutt's (1978) 18 Distance Below SWL (m) Diffraction Coefficient Wave Used for Analysis T=3.00s L=7.50m Training Wall Wave Generator Figure 5. Diagram of diffraction analysis used to determine the alongshore length of the test beach. (0.00, 0.305 ) Qe A we Se oe UCROSOF0001) Ska EA hn Roa SWS Bee (4.19,0.177) (6.58, 0.253) Backbeach Test Beach (11.46 ,0.710) ESO Weal) O IeMiee wena S IGA ud Sa TG Weer Bk Oe chOy Niles ie Station (m) Figure 6. Shore-normal profile of the test beach, sand trap, concrete aprons, and adjacent rubble. 19 profiles run for 80 hours or more with wave periods similar to those used in this experiment, the shore-normal profile in Figure 6 was drawn as a compro- mise or average through the superposed profiles. This profile was used to lessen the onshore-offshore adjustment of the beach. Figure 7 shows the coordinate system used for the test beache The origin is at the updrift, shoreward corner of the beach. Ranges (in meters) are along the alongshore axis, and stations (in meters) along the shore-normal axis. Any point on the beach, or in the basin, can be described by a range- station pair. Range (m) 4 14 12 10 8 6 2 0 -2 -4 -6 Rubble Backbeach Test Beach Updrift Concrete Apron Station (m) Downadrift Concrete Apron | R 3.80, S Breaker Line) Tests 12-15 @ Gage 4A (R 3.80,5 6.00) Tests 5-I1° Sand Trap Gage 3 (R 3.80, $9.00) MY Tests 5-15 80 60 40 20 0 12 Water Depth (cm) ¢ A Gage 2 Gage (R 3.80, $12.50) (R0.00, $12.50) All Tests All Tests Figure 7. Coordinate system used for test beach with locations of wave gages (R = range, S = station). 2. Generators. The three piston-type 6-10 meter-long generators used in this experiment produced only monochromatic waves and are discussed in Stafford and Chesnutt (1977). The generators were set at four different angles--0°, 10°, 20°, and 30°--to the beach during the experimente For each setting, an updrift train- ing wall was built from the generator to the 1-foot depth. This allowed circulation past the wall to feed the longshore current. Figure 2 shows the setup of the four generators and training wall. For the 10° and 20° tests, the training wall was curved to allow for wave refraction. However, since the wall stopped at the l-foot depth, the curves 20 were small and considered not worth the construction effort. Therefore, the curve for the 30° tests was deleted and a straight training wall was used. 3. Sand-Moving System. As the waves approached the beach at an angle, the sand moved in the downdrift directione Most of it deposited in the sand trape The sand which escaped the trap deposited either on the downdrift concrete apron or beyond the apron and rubble (covered to keep sand from being lost within it) onto the basin floor. This area is shown in Figure 2 as the supplementary deposition area. Although separate measurements of the sand deposited in each area were not taken, it is estimated that 80 to 95 percent of the longshore transport fell into the trap. The greater the transport rate and the suspended sedi- ment, the greater was the amount of sand escaping the sand trap. The trap was cleaned continually during a test using an eductor attached to a small centrifugal pump. Water was pumped through the eductor at high speed, creating a suction to pick up the sand (Fig. 8). The sand was pumped to the weighing station (Fig. 9), deposited in one of two bins, and weighed submerged. When divided by the appropriate time period, the value became the immersed weight longshore transport rate. After the weighing, the sand was pumped, using another eductor, into a sand feeder. The sand feeder is a vertical cylinder open at both ends in which sand is introduced through the top and removed by waves through the bottom. A diagram and a photo of the feeder are given in Figures 10 and ll. The primary advantage of the feeder is that it permits waves to control the amount of sand introduced onto the beach. Savage (1961) discusses the feeder and its development. In summary, the complete sand-moving system (Fig- 12) included the following: (a) A sand trap, a downdrift concrete apron, and a downdrift deposition area which trapped the sand; (b) a downdrift eductor-pump combination which moved the trapped sand to the weighing station; (c) a weighing station which weighed the amount of sand moved; (d) an updrift eductor-pump combination which moved the sand from the weighing station to the sand feeder; and (e) a sand feeder which redeposited the sand onto the beach. 4. Instruments. Wave heights were measured using parallel-wire wave gages (see Fig. 7). Gages 1 and 2, located seaward of the toe of the beach, were used for all 15 tests. Gage 3, located over the beach, was used for tests 5 to 15. Gage 4A, located close to the breaker line, was used for tests 5 to 1l. Beginning with test 12 for the remainder of the tests, gage 4A was adjusted to measure the breaker height and then renamed gage 4B. 21 @ Sand and Water Mixture from Sand Trap or Weighing Station Pulled in by Vacuum @ OUTPUT: Sand and Water Mixture to Weighing Station or Sand Feeder () INPUT: Clear Water from Centrifugal Pump =— --- =-= eS ss @) High-Speed vet S—-==/ } Creates Vacuum <———| I. &a— : (I = =. = =-— >= Figure 8. Diagram of eductor. Figure 9. Photo of weighing station. 22 10joatu} ¢ * *jepesy pues jo 070g 4 NNT HE * TT ean3sta — — _j—. * BEC EE os SRE *lapeey pues jo weasel ysoms fq yo0ag 0}U0 pud 49 PaAodw puos 300}4 UISOg 0} yo0ag ybnosy) puayx3 sa uo}}01S Buiybiam WOJ} MO}JUT J2{0M PUD puos °OT 2an3Ty (4240M Ajulow ) uo!y04S Buiybiam 0} usNjay MO}}J9AQ pay M0} }13AQ 23 ® Sond is Moved to Weighing Station ~, Sand Beach Concrete Apron Concrete Ol Sand is Moved fo Sand Feeder Feeder Redeposits Sand Onto Beach @ Waves Breok and Transport Sand Alongshore we “aet Sand Deposits in Sond Trap @ Wove Generators Drive Waves at Angle to Beach Figure 12. Diagram of complete sand-moving system. Two cameras were mounted over the beach on the catwalk of the SPTB. One was a view camera with an adapter for taking 4- by 5-inch Polaroid black-and- white photos, and the other a standard 35-millimeter camera. The locations of the cameras are given in Table l. Other instruments used in the tests include standard hydraulic scales for weighing the sand, and a standard level and rod for surveying the beach after each teste Table 1. Locations of overhead cameras mounted on the catwalk. View 35-mm (m) (m) Range Station Elevation above SWL laccurate only to + 0.1 meter. 24 5- Dye Injection. Longshore current velocities for tests 5 to 15 were measured by injecting dye into the surf zone through a hose which ran from the sand feeder to a small stake in the surf zone. Dye was poured by hand into the top of the hose. Table 2 gives the locations of the dye injection by test numbers. The change in location of the stake in tests 7 to 10 was a procedural error and not planned for a special purposee The dye injection procedure is discussed in detail in the next section. Table 2. Locations of dye injection by test number. Test Nos. | Dye injected Dye timed Dye timed | Timed distance at range from range traveled (m) Bistand 6 | 7 EO INO) ll to 15 6. Sand Size. Figure 13 shows the size distribution of the sand used for all 15 tests. The median diameter was 0.22 millimeter. The geometric standard deviation is defined as d 1/2 “3 aa (20) where djg and dg, are the sand sizes at which 16 and 84 percent, respec— tively, of the sample is coarser. The value of for the sand used was 1.22. Figure 13 indicates that the sand was well ore Screen Opening (mm) 0.1 0.0! 0.050102 05 § 2 5 10 30 40 50 60 70 00 ie 95 : 99 99.0 99.9 miert Coorser Figure 13. Size distribution of sand used for all tests. 25 IVe EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE Each test was composed of three major data collection cycles: an hourly cycle, a daily cycle, and a test cycle. For example, wave heights were measured every hour (hourly cycle), water temperature was measured twice a day (daily cycle), and beach surveys were taken at the end of each test (test cycle). The typical test schedule was 4 hourly cycles daily for 6 days for a total of 24 run-hours per test. Tests 1 and 2, as discussed later, were exceptions to this schedule. Figure 14 is a schematic diagram of the inter- relationship of the three cycles. Since waves were run every other day, a complete test took about 3 weeks. 24-HOUR COMPLETE TEST CYCLE es oe ee Ol ee 7 S Depth Recorded. 1 HOUR CYCLE ~\. —=——-Sand Continually Cleaned Beoch Photo ol XX Out of Trap ond Weighed. d. Breaker Photo Wove Height Measur Longshore Current Measured. Woter Depth Corrected to 0.71 m, 7 SAX 7 ~ Beoch Regroded ees ES Basin Droined. New Test Voriobles Set. Ba Sd Drainage and Bed-Form Photos Token. a SS Pe 4 HOUR DAILY CYCLE SK Beoch Surveyed. eH RE ERcaaes ———_| mu an : ! YS All Remaining Sond Picked Up. woter Temperoture ! Soy Surf Zone Photos ond Weighed. Recorded. i SK Woter Temperature ond 1 ! Figure 14. Schematic diagram of the interrelationship of the three experimental cycles. 1. Hourly Cycle. The various types of data collected in a typical hourly cycle are shown in Figure 14, along with an indication of time of collection. Before a new hour of run-time was started, photos of the beach were taken from overhead with both the 35-millimeter camera (Fig. 15) and the view camerae A reference rope in the alongshore direction at station 5 and painted arrows on the concrete at each station bordering the beach can be seen in Figure 15. Photos, such as shown in Figure 15, provide a record of the change in waterline and breaker bar throughout the tests. The waves were then turned on and usually, within 5 minutes of the start, an overhead photo of the breaking wave was taken with the view camera. The angle between the breaking wave and the reference rope was later measured from the photo to determine the breaking angle of the wave (see Fig. 16). Note that this procedure assumes the alongshore direction remained constant throughout the test. In actuality, however, the alongshore contours are changing, as evidenced in Figure 15. After a run-time of 30 minutes, wave data were collected for 2 minutes. A sample strip-chart record is shown in Figure 17. The wave height was deter- mined from this record. For a given length of wave record, a horizontal line was drawn along what appeared to be the average wave-crest elevation. A horizontal line was also drawn for the wave troughs. The distance between the two lines was measured to determine the average wave height, H. This proce- dure assumes that a nearly uniform distribution of wave heights is produced by the monochromatic wave generators. 26 Figure 15. Example of overhead photo. Downdrift ——> ~<@€— Onshore Figure 16. Example of photo of breaking wave. : Avg. Hgt. = 14.0¢m =Line established ot Hf HH HB ; by eye ; EE erifits aii i faevaifitzee Q EEE MEETHHEE Figure 17. Example of strip-chart wave record. 27 Immediately after the wave data were collected, dye was injected into the surf zone, as discussed in Section III, and the leading edge of the dye was timed over a distance of approximately 4 meters (see Table 2) to determine the longshore current velocity. Also recorded were the station at which the dye left the downdrift edge of the beach and the station at which the waves were breaking. Therefore, the determination of whether the dye moved offshore, along the breaker line, or onshore could be madee Most of the dye injections traveled along the breaker line. During the hourly cycle, sand was continually picked up from the trap area and weighed when a bin was full. A complete record of the amount of sand moved in a given time period existed only at the end of the day after the waves had been stopped and all the remaining sand had been picked up and weighed. Therefore, the longshore transport rate can be given for a daily cycle or a test cycle only. 2. Daily Cycle. At the start of every test day (see Fig. 14), the water temperature was recorded, the water level was corrected to 0./10 meter, the wave gages were calibrated, and a check of all equipment was made. The hourly cycles were then started. Four hourly cycles were usually completed each day. Shortly before the waves were turned off at the end of the day, photos of the surf zone were taken from the side (see Fig. 18 for examples). After the waves were stopped, all the sand in the sand trap, on the downdrift concrete apron, and in the downdrift deposition area was moved to the weighing station and weighed. The day's longshore transport movement was then determined after the final weighing. This quantity, divided by the total number of run-hours, provided the immersed weight longshore transport rate for the day. 3. Test Cycle. At the beginning of each test, new test values for the wave period, T, the generator angle, a,, and the generator eccentricity, Ecc, were selected and set (Fig. 14). Ecc is half the distance the generator bulkhead movese The combination of period and eccentricity produced a predicted wave height, using the calibration curve of the generators (see Fige 2 in Fairchild, 1970). This guided the selection of T and Ecc but was not used for wave height determination. The beach was regraded to the shore-normal profile (see Fig. 6) before each new teste This included raking the beach to remove all traces of ripples from the prior test. The basin was usually flooded to cover the entire beach and left over a weekend to allow the new beach to stabilize before the new test cycle began. After the test was completed, the basin was drained in 10-centimeter increments, producing depth contours of 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 centimeters. An overhead photo of the waterline was taken at each increment. An example series is shown in Figure 19. Surveys of the beach were then taken, using a standard level and rod, along ranges 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 7.6 meters. The elevation on each range was read at all major breaks in slope. 28 Reference Rope _ (Station 5) Te PS Figure 18. Example of surf zone photos. 29 esojoyd o8euteip jo softies o[duexy 61 ean8Ty 30 cs \\ META ) Led I fe gfe 3 hag ZA LZ Sete, \ MAUR | yA wily \ rie NAS ~ we Ba, Ay ‘ ae) TNR AAI Ce LEED . Se thy nr Example series of drainage photos.--Continued Figure 19. Finally, photos of the beach were taken at close range to document impor- tant bed forms, such as ripples and bars (Fig. 20). 4. Range of Variables. Table 3 gives the test variables for all 15 tests. Note that the 0.710- meter water depth and the sand were the same for all tests. The wave heights listed are the average of all the hourly measurements of gages 1 and 2 for each teste Table 3. Test cycle variables and data. Total 4 Breaker | Longshore run-time angle current (degrees) 1Not available. Sy? Ve DATA The data collected during the experiments are provided in Appendixes A to D. Appendix A contains the hourly and daily data for each test. Appendix B lists the beach survey data, which are plotted in Appendix C, taken after each test. Appendix D provides 35-millimeter photos of the beach taken during a test with the waves stopped. 1. Hourly and Daily Data in Appendix A. Table 4 is an example of how the daily and hourly data are tabulated in Appendix A. Column 1 lists the run-time over which the data were collected. Run-time is defined as the cumulative time of wave operation from the begin- ning of the test. A run-time of 05 10 means that up to that point, waves had been run at the beach for a cumulative total of 5 hours and 10 minutes. This would be the case even if the first wave had been run 2 days before. Column 2 lists the length of time (in minutes) waves were stopped to take overhead photos of the beach. The letters CFD or TC indicate that the testing was completed for the day or the test was completed. Between any two entries in column 2, the waves were run continuously.e For example, from the beginning of the test at run-time 00 00 to run-time 01 00 (see Table 4), the waves were continuously run. At that point the waves were stopped for 5 minutes to take overhead photos of the beach. The waves were then restarted and run continu- ously until run-time 02 00. Columns 3 and 4 list the water temperature and the water depth, respec- tively. These measurements were taken in the morning before the testing started and in the afternoon after the testing stopped. Column 5 lists the immersed weight of sand moved during testing from the previous entry in the column. A value is always listed with a CFD or TC entry since it was only at the end of the day that the balance of sand not weighed during the time the waves were running could be picked up and weighed. In Table 4, the value of 4,227 immersed pounds of sand is the quantity of sand transported from run-hour 04 00 to 08 00. This column is not a cumulative listing of sand transported. Columns 6, 7, 8, and 9 list the wave heights measured by gages l, 2, 3, and 4A or 4B, respectively. Section III discusses the locations of these gages, which are shown in Figure 7. Column 10 lists the breaker angles meas— ured from the Polaroid 4- by 5-inch photos of the breaking waves (see Fig. 16). Column 11 lists the longshore current velocity measured by dye injec-— tions, as discussed in Section III. Column 12 lists the breaker type, using the following code: sg, surging; p, plunging; c, collapsing; and sp, spill- inge A double entry indicates both types of breakers were evident with the first type predominant. 2. Summary Data Table. For a comparison of test conditions, Table 3 provides the average values of water temperature, wave height, wave breaker angle, longshore current velocity, and average longshore transport rate in immersed pounds per second for each teste Also included are the wave period and generator angle. 33 Table 4. Example of hourly and daily data tables in Appendix A. TEST 13 PERIOD 3,00 StCONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 30 DEGREES RUN TIME MINUTES ostee @ATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LONGSRORE BREAKER STOPPED TEED DEPTH wEIGHT : cH ANGLE - CURRENT TYPE HR HN CeLG sus cH LBs GaGE 1 GAGE 2 GAGE $ GAGE 4A/4R DEGREES CM/S o 0 2@07 71,0 0 4 1s 0 3o 606 7.6 Tel Tol 6 8G 0) +) 16 1S 1 3o 60? 8,0 7.3 604 c) 3G 2 0 10 2 oy 16 2 43 oot 7.6 7,0 %ok 6 86 30 s 3 16 3 30 602 7,8 607 9.0 6 3G ao cro 2301 70,48 4239 Coa) 22.9 71,0 ag 19 3a 30 Vo2 7,0 5.9 11.9 8 SG $ 0 lo Sips 19 53 30 607 6.8 bo! 1106 7 8G 6 0 1o 6 Ss 1a 6 3a 608 659 6,0 11.9 8 8G 7.0 to 7 4 13 ? 30 Tol 6.8 604 tol 9 86 @o0 co 23.1 71,0 4227 8 0 23.6 71,0 ay 1S G30 603 7.3 7.0 1107 9 8G 9 0 1s 9 2 15 9 30 bo2 7,0 7.0 1202 8 SG 10 0 CFO 23.8 70,9 1861 10 0 23.7 71,0 10 2 20 10 30 Cr 6.6 bo2 1006 o 86 110 10 41 2 14 11 30 To2 6.5 008 909 9 8G 12 0 to 12.5 16 12 3o Fol @,4 6,9 904 10 SG 13 0 10 13 4 lo 13 30 7.0 6,6 6.0 Fol 8 SG 1a 0 CeO 2305 71.0 3506 10 0 23.5 71,0 19 8 18 12 30 Tot 6.6 6,5 Cr 9 SG 190 10 Ses) 16 1S 3o 6.8 o.8 604 06 1 8G 16 0 10 16 @ 18 16 30 605 6.7 3,6 8.6 7 86 17 0 1o 17 © 12 17 30 bod O07 6.8 1009 7 8G 18 0 (400) 22,0 71,0 3633 18 0 22.8 1, 16 =6$ 16 18 30 6.8 7.0 bo! 604 5 SG 19 0 20 NO 18 19 30 6.3 Tol 602 605 5 86 20 0 60 20 $ 14 20 30 5.9 7,8 763 7.8 8 8G 21 0 10 21 $ 12 21 30 5.8 8.2 7.2 8.0 ry 8G 22 0 CFO 2301 71,0 3769 22 06 71,0 22 5 13 22 30 3,7 7.0 6.5 608 5 8G 23 0 s 23.63 i 23 30 b02 7.9 7.7 703 8 8G 23 55 11 24 0 Te 2301 71,0 1680 eee 1¢FD = testing completed for day;TC = testing completed. 34 3. Survey Data. After each test, the SPTB was drained and the beach was surveyed. The distance and elevation pairs are listed in Appendix B and plotted in Appendix C. The elevation datum is the stillwater level (SWL), which corresponded to a 0.710-meter water depth. 4. Overhead Photos. Every hour during testing, the waves were stopped to take an overhead 35- millimeter photo of the beach (see Fige 15). The photos show the waterline, the longshore bar, and the swash zone. They are useful for a qualitative description of how the beach responded to the waves. Appendix D contains a series of photos for run-times 01 00, 08 00, 16 00, and 24 00. VI. DATA ANALYSIS This section includes the data analysis to determine the relations between Ip and S,, and I, and Po,e The empirical coefficients found from these relations are then, in turn, related to the surf similarity parameter, €, which is adapted to the data collected. Also included is an explanation of the calculations of S,., Ppp, &, and I,, along with plots of the various rela- tionships. The wave Benet used in the calculations is that measured at the toe of the beach (average of gages 1 and 2 wave heights). The breaker wave height, which would have been a better value, was not used for the following reasons. The wave height at the toe of the beach was measured for all 15 tests; the breaker height was not. Also, only one gage was used to measure breaker height, while two were used at the beach toe. The significant differ- ence in height between waves measured at the two beach toe gages (see App. A) indicates that some wave height variability existed along the wave crest. Therefore, the average of the measurements at the two beach toe gages is probably a more reliable estimate of the entire wave passing the toe than the one gage measurement at the breaker is of the entire breaker waves A compar- ison of the data in this report with past studies is shown in a Q _ versus Pop graph. 1. Calculation of Sxy? Equation (7) 2 A xy 8 g C was used to calculate Sxy* Rearranging the equation, Sg = ao an sin 2a @2i15) where n is the ratio C,/C and a function of the water depth and wave period or length. Sx was calculated at the toe of the beach by using the average of the wave heights measured at that location (see Fig. 7), and by using the generator angle for a. This was calculated for each set of wave data. Thus, for the standard 24-hour test, 24 values of 5S, were calculated (see Appe E)- The average of Sxy for each test is listed in Table 5. 35 Table 5. Test cycle calculations. Pop Ip Ks Kp E (J/m/s) | (N/s) | (m/s) 2-201 | 0.6116] 0.5190] 0.2779 | 0.6604 | 2-043 0.6889] 0.6058] 0.3373} 0.6686 35232 0.8396} 0.3682 | 0.2598 | 0.3374 3.615 0.6188) 0.2868; 0.1712} 0.4508 0.789 0.7544; 0.7640 |} 0.9557 | 0.8997 2-144 | 0.9966} 0.5042] 0.4648] 0.6815 4.158 O23 IN Oe23.037 | Oli Sle | Onavisi 3.918 0.3446} 0.1142) 0.0880] 0.4835 4.286 Os 227 1 Ool8o2) | Ost 2 20 Oe SoM 14.761 1.0605} 0.1285} 0.0718] 0.3764 4.839 1.6328) 0.5550 | 0.3374] 0.6644 2-948 1.1941} 0.5328}; 0.4051] 0.9190 14 24 11.578 | 28.802 3.2938! 0.2845} 0.1144] 0.6112 15 24 OG ARS) UG HSS 225502} 0.2756; 0.1884! 0.3934 2e Calculation of Pope Equation (10) —2 a pg fe Pop ( 8 c,cosa), sind, was used to calculate P,,;.- The term in the parentheses, like Sy >» was calculated at the toe of the beach. However, the sine term used the beesiker angle as measured from the photos of the breaking waves. The breaker angle used in the calculation was the average of the breaker angles collected 30 minutes before and after the wave data were collected (see Fig. 14). Pep was calculated for each set of wave data, 24 values of P were calculated for the standard 24-hour test (see Appe E). The average of Pep for each test is listed in Table 5. 3. Calculation of &. The surf similarity parameter of Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) was presented in equation (17) as tan B (#4, / Lai For the data in this report, a different surf similarity parameter is needed since H will be substituted for Hp» as discussed at the beginning of this section. Therefore, the surf similarity parameter in the following analysis is noe g = tans (22) (H/ OO he 36 The same beach slope was used for all 15 tests and was determined as shown in Figure 21. A value of &€ was calculated for each test using the average H for the entire test. These values are listed in Table 5. -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 _-0.1 = (2.65 ,0.000) SWL a] (0) ase he ee 5 SS SS SSI Se a SS. Slope Used in Surf Similarity Parameter 0.1 S 0.253- 0.000 | é Si tan B: 658-265 = 0.0644 mo 0.2 \ e (6.58, 0.253) = 0.3 2 S 0.4 Backbeach Test Beach 0.5 0.6 0.7 -3 -2 -l 0 | 2 3. 4 5 6 7 #8 Qs 107 alee We Station (m) Figure 21. Determination of beach slope used to calculate the surf similarity parameter. 4. Special Tests. Three tests were performed under special circumstances. Test 2 was a repeat of test 1; test 8 was a repeat of test 7, except the sand feeder was moved shoreward; and test 11 was done with a generator angle of Zero. Tests 1 and 2 were both run with a period of 2.35 seconds, a generator angle of 10°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.9/7 centimeters. Test 1 ran for 25 hours, test 2 for 50 hours. A twofold comparison of the two tests was originally planned. The first 25 hours of test 2 data was to be compared to the test 1 data, and then, both sets of data were to be compared to the last 25 hours of test 2. Unfortunately, due to an experimental error, only the first 30 hours of the test 2 longshore transport data was collected accu- rately. Therefore, the only comparison made was test 1 to the first 30 hours of test 2. Reference to test 2 in the remainder of the report refers to the first 30 hours only. Appendix A contains all 50 hours of test 2 data. Table 6 compares the results of the two tests. The differences listed give an indication of the repeatability of the data collection. The longshore transport rate changed by 12.6 percent, which is a significant variation. This is an inherent problem of longshore transport tests, indicating that some important unknown factors are at work. 3ii/ Table 6. Comparison of tests 1 and 2. Total Avg Avg Ip Sxy Pop run-time H Oh, ‘ (cm) aria (N/s) | (N/m) | (J/m/s) 8.17 0.612 1.18 2.20 ea 03 0.689 eee 14 eal 04 [stem] =125 | +12.6 7) 53-4 730) ‘(Test l= est Dy, 100 _ Test 1 eo difference = Tests 7 and 8 were both run with a period of 1.90 seconds, a generator angle of 20°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.9/7 centimeters. The only difference was that the sand feeder, which was located at the SWL for all other tests, was moved shoreward 1.4 meters for test 8. The feeder was moved because the shoreline at the end of test 7 significantly angled shoreward toward the downdrift side of the beach. This can be seen in the test 7 photos in Appendix D. The feeder was moved shoreward to see if a straight shoreline resulted. It did, as the photos in Appendix D for test 8 show. Another major effect was the change in I, from 0./28 newton per second for test 7 to 0.345 newton per second for test 8, a decrease of 53 percent. Test 8 is excluded from the remaining data analyses. Test 11 was run with a period of 2.35 seconds, a generator angle of 0°, and a generator eccentricity of 5.97 centimeters. The test was meant as a control to determine the amount of sand moved by the diffusion caused by breaking wavese This value of I, for test 11 was 0.089 newton per second. A comparable quantity of sand, 0.059 newton per second, also moved updrift. Test 11 is also excluded from the remaining data analyses. 5. Daily Cycle Graphs. As discussed previously, longshore transport could be measured only on a daily cycle or test cycle basis. For the typical 24-hour test, six values of longshore transport rate were calculated. Each rate covered a period of 4 run-hourse During this time period, four values of 5 anda were calculated, averaged, and related to the corresponding value of I,. These values are listed in Appendix F and plotted in Figures 22 and 23. Table 7 lists the important statistical parameters. Table 7. Daily cycle statistics. Relation ‘Least squares lines ee Y-intercept | Through origin | slope _ slope _ pe versus us), "| I, versus Be The square of the correlation coefficients, r2, represents the fraction of the variation of I, about its mean which is explained by the abscissa eepailg i62 \se@ne 1) and P are 0./4 and 0.73, respectively. These numbers show that Ip) correlates well with both terms to approximately equal degrees. The least squares lines listed in Table 7 are in Figures 22 and 23, which also include the least squares lines calculated with the limitation that the lines pass through the origin. The slopes of these lines are 0.28 for the I, versus S xy graph and 0.13 for the I, versus Pop graph. 38 M4aADD ABOVHWZDA[AA MBODHOZOE V2 Oo 2 Oo Oo ae Oo 2? 8 7 7 2 - eG ? Go 2? go a 2? 7 ? 7? 2 Z| 0 ly wm = A ? Oo 2 o fa =] ee 7 281 eae Ue 0,’ Oos y ? e 4 6 8 10 ie RADIATION STRESS N/M Figure 22. Relation between longshore transport rate, lI), and radiation stress, S,., using daily cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 39 14 MADD ADOVWVIZDAA MBOTBZ®HOOZOEP” NN Z a “0 ai 7G % 5a Oo uaa o Nae a) 2? G MZ @ oo oo" a oO ee ogee 9 O° ap -TE) 5 1@ 15 28 25 38 LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR J/M/S Figure 23. Relation between longshore transport rate, I,, and longshore energy flux factor, Pop» using daily cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 40 35 6. Test Cycle Graphs. The average longshore transport rate for each test was calculated and compared with the test average of Sxy and P,,. These values are listed in Table 5 and plotted in Figures 24 and 25. Statistical values are in Table SoZ Lon. Lj versus S,, and I, versus Pp), are 0.72 and 0.74, respec- tively. As with the daily cycle calculations, Ip is shown to correlate well with both terms to approximately equal degrees. Figures 24 and 25 include both the standard least squares line and the least squares line forced through the origin. The slopes of the latter lines are 0.26 for the Ip, versus Sxy graph and 0.13 for the Ip versus Py, graphe Table 8. Text cycle statistics. Relation Figure Least squares lines No. Standard i Y-intercept | Through origin slope | slope versus versus versus versus & Ww MADD ADOVNSDVA MBOTNOZOSe wu @ e 4 6 8 10 ie 14 RADIATION STRESS N/A Figure 24. Relation between longshore transport rate, I and radiation stress, S.., using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 41 an eS MADD ADOVHWIDAA MBOTHHOZOP [s¥) Ww WN As) @ 5 10 15 28 es 38 35 LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR J/M/S Figure 25. Relation between longshore transport rate, Ip), and longshore energy flux factor, P»,, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 7. Surf Similarity Relation. Figures 26 and 27 were drawn to test the dependence of K, and on &. Test numbers are indicated in the figures. Table 8 lists the statistics. The K terms were calculated using equations (15) and (16). These graphs show that K is far from being constant, as is commonly assumed, and that it~ is strongly related to €. 8. Comparison to Past Data. They units of el and Py, were converted to those used in the SPM and plotted in Figure 28, which is taken from Figure 4-36 of the SPM. The SPM figure was modified by shifting the x-axis to convert from P to Pope Equation (13) shows the relation between P and Pose Test numbers for the data points of this report are noted in Figure 28. Two major observations are immediately apparent. The first is that the laboratory data in this report, as in laboratory data from past reports, have considerable scatter. Since the surf similarity parameter, €, in this report varies by a significant amount for the different tests, as shown in Figures 26 and 27, some scatter is expected. The surf similarity parameter, of course, does not explain all of the scatter in the laboratory data- There are still some laboratory and scale effects which are not yet understood. 42 1.00 0.75 20.50 Figure 26. Relation between K, and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 43 1.00 0.75 Kp =0.89€ -0.22 r2 = 0.56 0.50 0.25 Figure 27. Relation between Kp and the surf similarity parameter, €, using test cycle data (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 43 Longshore Transport Rate, Q ( yd>/yr) ore 10° 102 10° Ome Figure 28. 7 % Hy 7 * Vi os % ¥e a ¥ eae s © 14 15 i 92 13 i 6e 236 e10 2@ Se7 I° ge9 © Present Lab Data (Test No. Included ) * Past Field Data e Past Lab Data Ome Om lowe 10! Longshore Energy Flux Factor, Py, (ft-lb/s/ft) Comparison of data in this report to past reports, using SPM Figure 4-36 (tests 8 and 11 excluded). 44 ye j % SPM Design Curve * 102 The second observation is that most of the data fall beneath the SPM curve connoting low values of « Since the SPM curve is based on field data, mostly from Komar and Inman (1970), a possible explanation is that the field data were collected under conditions of higher values of &€ than those for the laboratory data. Kamphuis and Readshaw (1978) suggest that Komar and Inman's data were indeed collected under conditions of high Epe It seems reasonable to assume that the &€ values were also high. VII. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS An analysis of the radiation stress, S,y» and the energy flux factor, Pop» shows that both predict longshore tranSport rate, Iz, to comparable degrees. Approximately 70 percent of the variance of Ip about its mean is explained by each term. There appears to be no major advantage in choosing one over the other to predict the longshore transport rate. However, Sy. has the advantage of being constant seaward of the breaker zone while Pop is note This makes the calculation of S§& more convenient than P»), which must be determined at the breaker lines On the other hand, Pop has the advantage of having the same units as Ip, which means that K is dimensionless. The empirical coefficients, K, and » are far from constant although is commonly assumed to be so in practice. Part of the variation of the coefficients can be related to the variation of the surf similarity parameter, —&, as shown in Figures 26 and 27. These figures show that K, and will increase with §. The considerable scatter evident in Figure 28 can be partly explained by the relation between the empirical coefficients and &. The data in this report and past laboratory and field data are compared in Figure 28. The laboratory data generally predict lower values of I for a given P compared to the field datas Part of this trend can be explained by the dif- ferences in the surf similarity parameters, assuming the field data were collected under conditions of high €.- Also, laboratory and scale effects probably contribute to the lower laboratory transport rates. The relative importance of these factors is suggested as a subject of future research. 45 LITERATURE CITED CHESNUTT, C.Be, “Analysis of Results from 10 Movable-Bed Experiments,” Vol. VIII, MR 77-7, Laboratory Effects itn Beach Studtes, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Vae, June 1978. FAIRCHILD, J.C., “Laboratory Tests of Longshore Transport,” Proceedings of the 12th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol. Il, 1970, pp. 867-889. GALVIN, C.J., “Relation Between Immersed Weight and Volume Rates of Longshore Transport,” TP 79-1, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va, May 1979. GALVIN, C.Je Jre, and EAGLESON, P.S., “Experimental Study of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach,” TM-10, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Washington, DeC., Jan. 1965. GALVIN, C. and SCHWEPPE, C.R.e, “The SPM Energy Flux Method for Predicting Longshore Transport Rate,” TP 80-4, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va-e, June 1980. KAMPHUIS, JeWe, and READSHAW, J.S.-, “A Model Study of Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate,” Proceedings of the 16th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol. II, 1978, pp.e 1656-1674. KOMAR, P.D., and INMAN, D.L., “Longshore Sand Transport on Beaches," Journal of Geophysical Research, Vole 75, Noe 30, Octe 1970, ppe 5914-5927. LONGUET-HIGGINS, M.S.~, “On the Statistical Distribution of the Height of Sea Waves, 1," Journal of Marine Research, Vole 11, 1952, ppe 245-266. LONGUET-HIGGINS, M.S., “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves," Journal of Geophysical Research, Vole 75, Noe 33, Nove 1970, SAVAGE, ReP., “A Sand Feeder for Use in Laboratory Littoral Transport Studies," The Annual Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board, Vol. 15, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C., July 1961. STAFFORD, R-eP.-, and CHESNUTT, C.Be, “Procedures Used in 10 Movable—-Bed Experiments,” Vol. I, MR 77-7, Laboratory Effects itn Beach Studies, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., June 1977. U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER, Shore Protection Manual, 3d ed., Vols, I, II, and III, Stock No. 008-022-00113-1, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1977, 1,262 pp. 46 APPENDIX A HOURLY AND DAILY DATA The data in this appendix are available on computer cards from CEIAC. 47 RUN SCCHOKBH OB POVVYVATTANACC SCH BABU NMRKK——-—Ooae ee ech wane 14 SE EHWUANN KKH OOO TIPE MINUTES BTOPPEDA ce CFO thet CFD WeooMmMoOD000S a ay we we CFD Se cw 40 a w CFD we ow 40 ow COSCO SCOO MOC HOCOROMBOMOTCONOOCWODTDOMCSCOCOCOCOCCOSOSO cro le ltee oo w oo 60 ee) ocowo CFO ) 60 0 vc WATER TEMP CeLs tus 25.5 2205 2205 22.8 24.5 WATER vee’ PERIOD 2,35 SECONDS cM LBs 71,0 3600 y1,0 a2 71,0 1376 1810 71,0 2508 71,0 3260 71,0 2644 PERIOD 2,39 71,0 IMMERSED DEPTH WEIGHT GaGe 1 10,0 veer SECONDS 1004 1004 1004 10,0 10.4 “CKD = testing completed for day; os GENERATOR ANGLE 10 DEGREES WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER cr ANGLE GaGE 2 GaGe § GAGE 4AasuB DEGREES t) 6,4 9 6.8 8 602 6,6 6 7,0 10 0,4 t) 6.8 6 6,4 7 6,0 9 7.2 8 7.2 9 $,6 9 602% si. oe 6 8,0 6 7,4 6 7,4 6 ove 6 6,8 6 6,0 6 5,6 7 7,0 7 6,6 7 5,8 6 ©,0 t) 02 GENERATOR ANGLE 10 OGGREES V 5,6 y 5,8 7 0,4 6 6,4 6 6.8 TC = testing completed. 48 LONGSHORE CURRENT crs BREAKER TYPE TES’ 08 RUN xz D SSCHODPOSBBOWMYSSTAAS - = pe be ee we ee ee eaowanwe 14 TIME wn Cont MINUTES ATER avopPco! TOMP C2Ls Us cro CFO 21.5 cFo 2005 CFO CFO 2800 60 cro 23.0 75 CFD 23.7 65 WATER JMHERDEO OEP TH HESGHT cM Los 3252 71,0 1644 71.0 2944 71,0 3290 71,0 28u4u 71,0 2754 71,0 71,0 Gace 1 10.2 WAVE HEIGHY 5,6 5.4 49 Ca GAGE 40708 ORE AKER ANGLE DEGREES so LONGSKORE CURRENT (2) BREAKER TvPE ODOCSCBPSTSOrMVYYUYTSCTMMMESSCHSVYUBUYN=—— COO 10 Cony MINUTES WATER WATER IMMERSED stopPep! TEHP DEPTH WEIGHT Ceussus ‘cH Los CFO 23.5 71,0 60 CFO 24,5 71,0 So ve y PERIOD 1,390 96CONDS 22.5 71,0 5 s 80 cFo 2200 70,9 2792 21.8 Tol 5 5 CPD 21.8 70,7 24.00 71,0 CFD 2300 71,0 a7se 2200 71,0 5 110 g cro 24.0 70.9 3016 2005 71,0 5 115 +} CFD 2002 70.9 2420 19.5 1,0 5 GaGE 1 10.8 10,0 %o2 cer 1302 1301 120? 12.4 13ol 13.2 1306 1103 13.2 1104 12.8 12,0 1261 50 WAVE HEIGHT Cr Gace 2 GAGE 3 GAGE 4Asa8 GENERATOR ANGLE 10 ORGREEO 12,3 11,6 12.4 15,1 14,0 14,7 13,3 12,9 13.9 15,3 14,4 14,0 15,0 13,2 10,6 14,5 12,2 11,6 BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss GREAKER TyvPE TEST 03 CONT RUN TIME MINUTES WATER water IMMERSED WAVE HEZGHT ORE AKER LONGSHoRE OREaKER avoPPEo! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT ] ANGLE CURRENT TvPE HR MN COLS 2U9 ce Loo GAGE 1 GAGE 2 GAGE S$ GAGE Ga/aH DEGREES cused 18 0 100 10 3 7 18 30 1204 12,2 19 0 5 19 2 6 19 30 12.8 11,8 20 0 cro 19,0 %1,0 2626 20 0 18.0 71.0 20 3 10 20 30 130! 13.2 21 0 Ss. 21 64 14 21 30 1201 1103 e2 0 115 22 8 8 22 3o 12.9 11.8 23 0 s 23.3 2 23 30 1302 13,0 240 0 us 2700 4 reas’ 0a PERIOD 1,90 S&CONDS GENERATOR ANGLE $0 OGGREES a) 1900 71,0 0 38 t) 0 30 9,6 11.5 1 0 5 15 6 1 30 1004 13.2 2.0 gis a3 6 2 30 fiol 13.6 3.0 +) 32 o 3 30 11.0 15.4 a0 eFo “1500 71,0 2300 a0 1600 71,0 a 6 C) a 30 1109 1602 $ 0 5 Sirs 6 S$ 30 1400 19,2 6 0 11s 6 34 8 6 30 10.8 13,8 % 0 $ 2 8 ? 7 30 1002 12,8 8 0 cho 15.8 70,9 2164 8 0 14,0 71,0 ai C) 8 30 1108 12.5 9 0 5 Oe" tC) 9 30 ioe 13.2 10 0 115 10 S$ 7 10 3o 1000 12,7 1100 +} ° 11 7 6 11 3o 10.0 13,7 12 0 co 1902 71.0 1912 12,0 1002 71,0 1a 6 7 12 30 1003 12,3 130 S 135 9 13 30 100! 12.5 14 0 115 1 6S 6 19 30 904 12,0 13 0 5 1s S$ 6 13 30 905 12,8 16 0 CFD 15.8 71,0 1896 16 0 1700 71,0 16 4 c) 16 30 909 13.3 1) © s 17°~3 t) 17 30 904 11,8 18 0 110 18 «3 7 18 30 8,8 11,8 19 0 Ss 19°«S 7 19 30 6,8 12.4 20 0 CFO 1605 71,0 1968 20 0 1005 71,0 20 3 6 20 30 10.4 13,7 21 0 S 213 6 21 30 1004 12,4 22 0 115 22 4 8 2a 30 805 11.3 230 5 51 TEST 94 CONT RUN TIME MINUTES WATER WATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LONGSHoRE OREAKER svopPco! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT cw ANGLE CURRENT TyPE HR MN CLS IUS cM Loe GaGEe 1 Gace 2 Gack $ GAGE Savana DEGREES case 23°53 8 23 30 Bol 11.6 23 Se 6 2a Te 1005 71,0 1720 Teoy 0S PERIOD 3,00 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 10 OBGREES 0 0 12.00 v1,0 os 6 0 30 600 0,9 8.2 1106 1 0 5 1.0 2 1 3o 7,0 6,1 7,9 10.0 2 0 iT) 2e 2 2 30 6.8 7,0 7.9 908 doo 5 3k a 3 30 6.8 7.6 602 1104 a) cro 1105 70,9 1832 ao 1)0S 71,0 a3 6 a 30 5.9 7.4 7.6 1004 3 0 5 3 a 1 S 3o 600 6,8 609 908 6 0 115 6 3 a 6 30° 607 7.8 801 1100 7 0 5 Lee) 3 7 30 700 7,4 8,6 1000 8 oo cro 1105 70,9 2724 8 oO 1200 71,0 8 2 1 O80 6.8 9,0 1092 1004 9 0 8 9 4 r 9 30 6.4 8,0 8,6 1002 10 0 85 10 4 a 10 30 656 802 91 1006 11 0 3 Aiteees a = 11 So 602 @,0 8,0 1004 120 cro aor 12.0 13.0 7100 . 12.9 1 12 30 6.4 7.7 8.0 906 130 5 13 2 ‘ 13 30 600 8.0 8.2 Gee 100 40 ig a 5 14 30 700 7,8 Tol 9.0 18 0 5 Sees) a 1$ 3o boa 8,2 6.3 907 16 0 CFO 1500 70,9 2370 16 0 14,0 71,0 1o 3 = a 16 30 7.4 7.7 72 92 2 PesG My 0) +] 5 1% 8 17 30 7.0 7,8 8,4 902 3 PesG 1@ 0 115 18 3 7 18 3o 604 0,7 91 909 2 PasG 19° 0 5 19 3 4 19 30 605 8.5 10.0 3 20 0 CFO 14,0 70.9 2788 20 0 1400 71,0 20 10 3 20 30 604 7.4 7.7 900 3 3G a1 0 5 21 2 0 21 30 702 6,8 7.3 8.8 3G 22 0 85 é 22m 10 22 30 609 7,8 6.1 905 J 86 23 0 $ 23 4 2 23 30 607 8,0 7,8 906 3 86 23 So 3 24 0 TC 153.6 70,9 2206 TEST 06 PERIOD 2,33 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE B80 OGGREES 0 0 71,0 Oe 13 0. 30 1001 5.7 7.9 10.0 17 P 1 0 5 Sea 8 1 30 9,6 5,6 7.3 8.6 15 Pp 52 TEST 06 CONT RUN TIME MINUTES waTER WATER IMMERSED WAVE HEIGHT BREAKER LOnosHoRE OReaKER evorPcD! TEMP DEPTH WEIGHT (a ANGLE CURRENT TvPe BRD AN COLS US en Lee GaGE 1 GaGE 2 GAGE 3 GAGE SA708 OEGREES cuss 2 0 119 2e 10 2 3o 1002 3.3 6.4 802 17 SPoP 30 3 308 ii 3 30 9,8 50% 6.6 6.6 17 SPoP a0 1) 100% 91,0 3aa2a a 0 1009 ¥1,0 ay om) a 3o @,6 o,6 7,8 900 19 e 5 0 $ 3 3 10 § 30 92 6.0 7.0 6.6 17 ° e 0 415 6 7 9 6 30 8.9 . 6,0 Tol 6.8 1a iY 7 0 5 7 5 9 7 3o 8.3 6.7 6.2 92 1S Pp 8 0 CPD 1100 70,9 3000 8 0 18.0 91,0 6a 7 8 30 9.3 oo! 6,8 9.6 10 ® 9 0 8 9 4 L) @ 3o 6,0 0.0 7.0 900 17 p 10 0 00 io 9 10 10 3o 8,4 6,6 7,4 900 19 ° 110 $ 11 6 v 11 30 9.4 oo! 6.8 909 18 e 12.0 GPO 13.0 91.0 2990 12.0 12.0 71,0 12.5 9 12 30 93 03 7.0 %ol 17 ° 130 5 i3 S$ 9 13 30 6.5 0,8 Toa 900 17 ° 1a 0 $00 1a 8 9 14 30 Gol 6,0 Toa 8.8 19 Pp 180 5 19 3 6 13 3o 6,8 6,4 6.5 8.8 16 ° 16 0 (44) 1205 70,9 3304 16 0 1400 71,0 16 8 11 16 30 9.3 6.5 7.0 9.4 17 ° 17 0 8 17 8 9 17 30 96 71 7,0 Goa 10 P 18 0 120 18 3 128 18 3o 9.6 0.7 6.3 6.7 17 P 19 0 3 19°~9 c) 19 So 903 6,9 7.0 0.7 10 ° 20 0 (14) 1308 v1.0 3920 20 0 1803 ¥1,0 20 5 ? 20 Bo 6.8 e.3 7.8 8.9 16 e 21 0 5 21 4 1 a1 3o 8.0 6.7 6.6 1000 15 ° 22 0 as 22 5 ’ 22 3o 92 60! 6,9 907 19 ° 230 3 23.«5 ? a3 3o 9.3 oo! oo! 6.6 16 ° 23 35 8 aa 8 ve 130% 70,9 3ag4 yest 07 PERIOD 1,90 SECONDS GENERATOR ANGLE 20 OEGREES 0 0 9.3 71,0 0 6 4 0 25 11.4 13,0 1300 1002 Jo ° 0 35 12 1 0 8 1 a 9 1 So 1203 {loa 12.8 3o P 2 0 80 2004 2 © 10 2 3o 12,4 10,6 12,3 20 ® 30 5 3S 12 3 3o Mtol 11.6 12.8 29 Pp a 0 ero 9.9 91,0 1008 a0 15.0 71,0 a 8 10 a 30 9,3 10,3 12.7 34 e § 0 3 $3 11 3 30 G1 9,6 1257 ve ( 6 0 as 1130 53 Teer 0? RUN TIME wR 2@20PTFOw8wssFe 16 SSC HHSC HG®PSB@®wIAVFTPOAMAAWTSSHSLYUNNNYH——H—BCOo Cony MENUTES, WATER areprco! TOHP Ceus sus S (a) 109 1109 3 75 8 Po 10S 18 9 80 3 ePo 1808 12805 3 90 €Fo 1005 Po 1305 18.3 3 200 r) Te 1808 18.3 $ 105 3 CFD 12.5 1300 s 9% 5 (0) 18.9 18,0 5 00 wavER JMMEROED OGPTH WETGMY cu Loa Gace 3 6,8 6.9 70.9 181e V1.0 603 8.4 907 907 yo,9 2a34 vi,0 9,8 10.0 9,4 8.6 71,0 a016 71,0 9.6 9,0 9,8 y1,0 6,6 91,0 2000 ¥1,0 903 1000 G7 0,0 v1.0 1600 yee’ PERIOD 1,90 S&CONDS ¥1,0 1004 9,3 1096 907 ve,9 a3o04 71,0 9o1 6,8 6.2 70a 70,9 1224 v1,0 700 6.5 9,4 WAVE HELOHT Gace 2 11,8 GENERATOR ANOLE 4107 1102 10,4 12,6 54 19,3 113 1201 12.6 13.6 14,0 i3ol 13.4 12,0 12o3 12,4 12.6 12,6 1203 1106 12.8 11,0 11.8 12,8 12.3 @aGe A700 1508 1509 15.0 1503 a0 «6(DEGREES 1503 150% 1300 1500 13.9 1503 1359 OREAKER ANGLE OGGREED 10 10 12 Ms 14 13 M4 12 10 LONGSHORE CURRENT cHs8 33 32 20 34 30 33 3a 34 26 3o 26 26 19 BREAKER TvPE TEs’ 08 CONY RUN TIME HR 11 a oe SOO KPSSTPOWWAVSTPHVMHSCHSCEHVYEBNBY——-—-C20Oo oe — eee ee oe we wee ee ee COMARE ECE MUR LL} rv e ry ~ rs ro we SeoucoS#ocoeocomoocwoecwocf®0owccomooB2oco woowooo so ae MINUTES syoPPEo! ero ve Po water TEMP CeLs sus 1400 1400 14.0 1900 $900 14.5 1409 1300 1400 16,8 1605 145% 1900 13.5 WATER JHmERSED DEPTH WEIGHT 1) Los 70.9 1002 71,0 70.9 V30 V1.0 : 70,9 600 71,0 70,9 700 GaGe 1 9.3 To? 709 yes? PERIOD 1,30 SECONDS 71,0 ¥1.0 a11a y v0.9 1920 V1.0 71,0 1930 Y1,0 70,9 1304 v1.0 i108 1108 iio? WAVE HEIGHT € " Gace 2 Gace 3 12.5 12,0 12.2 11,8 dod Itoi 1407 12.0 18,0 18,0 1407 QENERATOR ANGLE 18,0 9,6 0,7 55 13.0 1200 12,8 13.2 13.2 1907 13,8 11.4 12,0 i107 11.0 10.8 t1eo 11.0 12.0 Itoi 11.0 10,4 10,8 1002 1109 11.6 1007 GAGE 9A/00 14.9 14,9 13.8 150a 1503 15.3 1407 15.0 1500 1508 1700 1608 20 DEGREES 1104 1200 MsoI 110% 12.8 12.5 12.8 13ol 120% 1302 1202 1307 BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES Ma 10 18 10 43 13 18 16 16 1a 16 146 18 1a 13 15 13 LOncGsHoRE CURRENT cure 17 19 17 19 17 {7 16 33 ao 39 30 3a ay 27 22 a7 34 22 a7 BREAKER TvPe SP oP BPP SP oP SPoP BPoP SPeP BP oP BP oP ap TeEeT mo) RUN TIME HR Mh 16 16 eee SCOSCHHAP®MP®OWMISTMTVHMESCOCOHVUAND=—=—|as0 ee ee to tot DD ORO 13 Cony MINUTES eyopPED! GPO CFO ve GPO Cfo CPO water TEMP Clrs tus 1309 1303 1305 1503 1508 1907 18.5 19,8 WATER DEPTH 1) V1.0 %1,0 70,9 71,0 JHMERSED WEIOHT Los 3078 604 M1o2 1103 1104 120! 1103 1104 iio! yesT 1,90 9&CONDS 9780 3926 3336 1553 19,3 15,3 1407 1308 1503 159® 1407 13.8 1007 15.3 14,4 15.0 1307 1491 14,4 1461 1307 13.3 Gace 2 10 56 WAVE HEIGHT 9,8 GENERATOR ANGLE 16,3 179! 16,2 17,4 17,7 17,9 10,2 10,3 17,9 17,3 21,0 19,3 19,2 10,8 19,8 2907 19,5 cr GAGE § 11.9 1104 11.6 11.6 12.8 17o! 17.6 18,6 17ol 16.8 17.4 153.3 1605 19,1 16.8 17ol QaGe @asaB 1304 1301 11e? 1100 10.8 13.8 1491 1002 15.9 16028 1707 1603 1902 16,8 1604 173 16,3 17,4 1907 BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES 13 16 16 17 18 18 16 M1 14 1a 16 17 18 16 15 1e 16 1o 16 LONcSHoRE CURRENT crHs8 33 ae 19 le 2a 3o 16 26 27 26 27 3a 27 26 39 32 33 3a 34 32 26 33 2e 23 20 a7 TyPe sp ap oP TEST RUN TIRE HR - =- i eocoo SCOCHSOBPDBMOVWVVSSTCMAMAMSOOCHVYSMIBM——=—=BOO 13 19 CONT MINUTES STOPPED! 6 19 Fo PD Po (44) cho ve ero WATER TEMP Ceus sus 18.28 2007 20.8 2907 28.0 21.8 1907 2004 20.2 WATER IMMERSED OGPTH WEIGHT CH Los GaGE 3 14.3 1307 1400 0.9 3Vo0 YEO’ _PERTOD 2,33 SECONDS v1.0 1002 %o7 9.4 9.2 a2 ¥1,0 90! 9,8 10a 9.9 70,9 ago 1,0 6 901 9.0 9.6 70,9 70 71,0 9.6 @07 92 9.4 70,9 310 1,0 9.2 9,8 9.3 90a 71,0 ais v1.0 900 9,6 9.9 %ol 90,9 206 yveay PERIOD 2,35 SECONDS ¥1,0 91,0 GAGE a 4 57 WAVE HEIGHT GENEBATOR ANGLE 9.0 8,5 S.@ GENERATOR ANGLE GaGE § 17.0 1002 7,8 8.7 6.7 9,0 GaGE 40708 1709 00 O8GREES 1054 1308 14,0 13.6 120% 14.0 12.9 1303 1304 1307 1209 idea 12.8 13.5 12.6 1203 120% 3o 6OGGREES BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES 17 °F e} a3 o3 a1 LONGBHoRE CURRENT cus8 er ay oy OREAKER Tyee yest RUN TIME HR PN RHR -§ 0900S SOO BOEVYNVTFSCOMABMSCE ER ABVEUNNMH KK oO ee we we oe we we ee ee ee ee ee ee ee eee MP OCCMUUOoCY MwwBA Weer eecowewNwynN—-—-—-s00 Cont MINUTES o7vepPep! PO CFO (44°) 18 10 vc 10 WATER TEMP clus sus 22.0 22.8 28,0 23.0 2301 adoi 23.8 23.6 23.0 2206 22.3 2e.7 2d01 28,9 WATER IMMERSED OGPTH WEIGHT CM Les GaGE i 907 908 10.3 10.6 ¥1,0 3703 71,0 1003 10.3 9.5 10.3 70,9 goy? 71,0 9,6 11.0 1005 1093 70.9 gaoa ¥1,0 1103 100! 1104 909 70,9 $626 71,0 903 eo2 9,6 9,9 71.0 g7aa y1,0 907 903 oi 9.5 %1.0 5773 yes? PERIOD 3,00 8&CONDS ¥1,0 6.6 6.7 bo! oa yo,8 4239 y1,0 y.2 oo? WAVE HESGHT cr Gace 2& GaGe 3% 3,3 703 5,4 83 4,3 O07 4.7 Oo! 7.5 6.0 6.9 bod 5.7 607 407 oof 6,9 6.3 $.a ol 93 0.0 0.9 bol 4,9 $,9 5,3 6.0 6.4 6,9 oo! ool 5,0 6028 6.0 6.3 o.5 703 3,0 7,0 a,0 628 5.0 O02 13 GENERATOR ANGLE v6 Fol 6,0 753 7.6 7,0 7,8 6.7 7,0 5,9 0,8 bo! 58 GAGE 40/08 909 900 Cr) 1108 100! %oa Bo | O8GREES 11.0 BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES 2 a2 18 16 a 19 a vw 16 22 22 20 16 15 13 16 19 LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss 20 23 z6 20 CD) 29 33 29 37 33 33 32 BREAKER Tyre 86 86 5G TEST RUN TIRE HR Br-——FTCSCC CSS SBSOYWYSOSTD ee we ee we eee SPO CSBBOWMWVYPSOTHMMARECSCSSCUVBBN=—=——T.oo eee —-oo CONT MINUTES avopPeo! 10 CFD 19 Fo 10 fo 10 ero 10 1o eFo fo 3e eFo 10 10 eFo 10 15 18 wateR TOHP COL sue 2301 23.00 23.0 2307 adoi 2303 wareR BEPTH ¥1.0 y1,0 ¥1,0 v1.0 71,0 TMMERSED WEIGHT L698 ara? 1801 ° 3506 3033 3709 4000 PERTOD 3,00 1,0 ¥o,9 71,0 10350 10030 ood 708 Fol 7.0 year SECONDS 13ea@ 159.0 1506 1506 Gol 14,4 15.0 1506 14,0 14.7 1407 WAVE HEIGHT Gace 2 703 70 607 7,0 eH Gace 3 6.0 6,4 6.0 7a Gace 4asaB 1109 idol Vo? 9d 98 1009 605 7.3 73 GENERATOR ANGLE 30 17,0 10,2 19,7 16,3 16,8 59 1407 1503 114 1206 12.2 11.4 12,0 1700 16.6 15.0 16.8 19.@ 16.6 19.8 1909 OEGREES BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES 13 20 16 16 10 16 19 16 10 Let M4 ay 20 a3 20 20 34 34 LONGSHORE CURRENT chs 33 3a a7 a ay 26a 17 BREAKER TvPE 86 86 86 86 86 86 a6 Teer RUN TIME HR BN VNB KK COSHH SCBSSSP®P®MVWYFROMVASCTCOCOCMWVMw~URMH———BAO0 eee eee eee CONT MENUTES avorPep! waTER TeMp CLS Jus CPO 12,4 196 10 1$ 75 15 Po 78 (af) ve 1.8 CPD 16.0 ¢PD WATER JHMERSED OEP TH WEIGHT cM Les GAGE 1 14.4 90,9 1ooa! Vi, 169! 14,6 14,6 1407 v1.0 10646 v1.0 13.8 15.8 1401 14.3 70.9 10170 71,0 1302 1502 1803 1900 yo,® 11994 yesy PERIOD 1,90 sGConds 71,0 13,8 1308 12.6 1307 71,0 7426 v1,0 19,0 13.4 13.4 10,0 71,0 6604 71,0 13028 13.9 13.8 13.4 ¥1,0 7949 71,0 18,0 132 14,4 WAVE HEIGHT Ca GaGE 2 GaGE § 16,8 12.3 10.) 13,4 15,0 13.3 15,6 13.8 15,2 13.5 16,8 12.8 15,9 12.6 17.7 13.5 10,8 12,8 14,4 12,3 17,4 12.2 10.2 12,0 13,0 12.3 18 60 GENEBATOR ANGLE 16,0 17,6 17,6 15,8 17,0 16,4 10,8 19,0 10,8 17,0 15,9 17,0 13,2 14,6 15,3 15.3 1302 1206 13,4 14,6 13,8 16,4 Gace 44748 16,6 1706 1708 16,8 17.0 1700 16.8 170d 190) 1708 So 16,3 1605 16.9 1963 19.5 19.4 19.2 DEGREES BREAKER ANGLE DEGREES 30 3o 31 31 19 1o 10 1y 19 10 19 20 190 20 LONGSHORE CURRENT css 20 22 19 20 So a0 40 30 Jo Jo 35 40 BREAKER TvPE PogP PoaP PoaP PoaP PosP Teer RUN HR Tyme ra we e oe @SwecssccecoovccBocoOMoOowVoOoOWVDoMooD0eS wo mI 18 CONT MINUTES eToPPED! sy cre 10 10 15 CPO ve walter TEMD COLE IUS 1309 10.0 1005 1700 1008 waver JHMERSED DEPTH WEIGHT (4) Lee Gace 3 1302 70,9 boae 1,0 1203 12.6 1304 130! yo,9 9090 1,0 13ol 18.0 12,8 13028 70,9 9820 61 WAVE HEIGHT 16,3 16,0 10,8 13,0 17,3 16,3 10,3 15,0 cH Gace 40/08 16.9 16,6 1907 B00} 2006 8003 80.60 20,9 1999 BREAKER QNGLE OEGREES 10 ay 16 ay a LONGSHORE CURRENT cuss 40 ao a3 ay BREAKER TvPE PosP ffPhe” 4 iS ap Rast wwe ; nym ' ni m T " ‘ ; t > Bice), hay, Rea aae eae Beg i} Welwieay,, " Airak wom nee Se ah ae oe is nea iy PRRs GTN eS aaa a aa ee fe ea ar i ; He ' oT e's eg 5 Se ee Meet wid wy Sie SLB 1 hn i ai j tiey B Fi ' Ae i ' oH what’: Hr ; ED Te aaa 273, 9 \ +hoq , Cf : va ieee, Haas eS i ‘ td ; ' nis ieee a sift {i i fe ne : o 4. ie # po iii ; te Sin uk ie $ i’ 41 . i hier a i Wee af 5 i¥ hal ‘ ) ' v ¥, ts ‘ agk v6 RANGE 1.3 RANGE Bo0 RONGE 9,0 RANGE 690 RANGE 7,0, RANGE 706 Ta LEV Ola ELEV STA ELEY ota ELEV Sta = EL Ev cM) cm) (A) cM) cm) cm) cm) Cm) (my qm) 0000 oa73 0000 0,00 o@75 1039 0135 1030 085 6090 1075 0105 1065 1030 0350 1058 11S 2000 20010 3,00 ©0085 3o20 20090 G@o34 eof79 oo2iS 20240 02a0 20305 20330 11000 00380 11093 11093 eoViB ©0320 29500 20670 ooFkS TEST 2 (after 25 houre) RANGE 1093 RANGE BoO RANGE 300 RANGE 4.0 RANGE 5.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE ¥,0 RANGE Too STA ELEY eva ELEY BTA ELEW 8Ta ELEV Bla ELEV Sta ELEY Sta ELEY Bra = ELev (rm) (My (mn) (m) (mM) cM) (my (M) (m) CM) (rm) (m) (m) cm) (m) (*) 0000 0295 6000 0000 0060 295 0000 290 0.00 285 0000 0,00 300 1.74 otis 1091 1095 1.98 150 1049 14S 1051 0155 1o3@ 1,08 0150 2015 So Qote 2.97 1098 0135 1086 0160 1078 9160 todo 2039 20005 3.65 00605 3.05 3017 2.98 .003 2eovd 00005 205% 0.000 2058 3.13 ooVFS 3.34 00080 3037 3.20 3.14 ©0100 2099 ool1l0 3.06 3.08 3,60 20090 3073 e030 3060 9048 3.43 00160 3040 ©0200 3.49 Soga 5.00 ecdeS 6 000% 307 Jobo 3o01 00095 3079 ©6100 3081 3090 6078 0510 Pei y) Go13 4,33 170 GeS1 2180 4,45 aoa7 8,03 oo375 20855 4049 $.99 3038 oo23S Soo? oo240 Soa 5066 9019 Soo oo Iho 5.98 6098 ©.76 oo325 095 0345 6060 6093 10,67 2s 2049 6068 68.38 8.08 ©0400 8023 00425 8035 0,455 8020 12000 0710 0085 7.88 053 9,08 0.520 96a ©0335 9,08 9005 eobTs 0,48 10070 10073 00635 10082 2,060 10.90 0,060 10073 OoV8g 30070 11.00 11087 oo718 11087 ooV1S 11090 oo710 1108) eof05 11.98 TEST 2. (after 50 hours) RANGE 1,9 RANGE 2.0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 440 ROnGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE Too Sta Ley eta Elev eva eLev 81, = ELEV Ola ELE STA) ELEY Ta Elev Ora = EL ev Cm) cM) cm) Cm) (Mm) cM) (my (my Cm) (mH) (A) (A) cm) (A) (ms) (4) 024s 0.00 029s 0000 865 0.00 0300 ebko 1047 0195 092 «9185 1024 0160 0138 aol2 0140 1038 0145 0185 20% 0145 1075 160 ©0085 3,22 0090 1086 0120 22030 3.52 20005 2026 0045 e00%g 3,%a 2052 0,005 @o2o 3.92 8092 070005 2007s 4013 20080 3010 0,089 doh30 5.00 20160 3032 00130 eohts 0.08 ©0260 3098 oo210 oo98s 7.as 11080 0.719 20389 G@o32 e160 00% 16010 9,09 06920 Oot? 06300 0608 $1068 11070 oo 719 9066 00739 0.709 TEST 3 RANGE 1,3 RANGE 2,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 500 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 700 RANGE 796 STA ELEY ots =eLev OTs ELEY Bra Lev BTa ELE OTA elev sta ELE Gra Lev CH) (hy cM) (4) cm) (M) (my CM) cm) OM) (C5) () cH) cy) (my cm) 0200 fT 0.00 0310 000 898 0.00 2890 0000 0895 0.00 0310 1.86 085 1080 6100 1009 130 1040 14% 1094 0130 1047 0130 2.30 00000 2202 060 1051 095 2.80 20105 @o1e 2060 1,06 085 3.20 20150 2006 0,000 1o7l 9080 3,90 20105 3e19 0,075 2.09 0,000 3,75 20270 Bo33 eollS 3040 0,090 O,18 eoa7d Bobo ©2063 3,66 0,150 4,60 20260 Go3G ©1770 3093 0,090 5.07 20299 G0%8 0,200 Soll e230 5,05 20509 S029 0,235 5.93 ©260 5.95 0638 5080 0215 53 0.255 6070 ©0710 0270 0205 7,00 2230 0295 8.20 20300 0,00 ©,300 9,08 2290 6,85 0,435 40,03 10.60 °,395 9,75 0,555 41,097 11008 2815 11.98 0,708 41,90 63 TEST 4 RANGE 1,3 RANGE 8,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 5.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RanGE 7.6 8Ta ELev ora ELev ora ELEY Sta ELEV Bla ELEv ora CH) Ls) 4) o*) (HM) CM) Cm) CM) (A) (4) cm) 0,00 885 0200 28% 0.00 .a75 0.00 285 0000 295 0.00 1o10 0155 1ed2 0125 207 =,a3s 1o34 0135 268 230 1.34 etfs feet 2095 1e4) ,taS 1,44 1065 e115 1035 of0s 1087 2095 1061 ,090 1.71 2007 4050 1077 ello 2010 2080 1083 .100 1,47 20a5 2014 02000 2029 0088 2.40 2095 2.91 2008p ao 3050 3,42 2003S 3.0u 4007 Sei cello 3029 ©0000 9000 30% eotto 0.95 Goa 2022S S072 4.65 eoR's 094 5301S 206g 7045 5.75 20375 7086 7018 e030 0.03 7020 11098 ofits 9050 7.81 9.98 8,57 10040 9015 11001 9,76 11090 10,38 TEST $ RaNGE 1,3 QanGe 2.0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 9,0 RanGe 53,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7,0 sta ELEv STA ELEV STA LEV 8Ta ELev Sta) ELEV BTA ELEV Sra ELEV Sta ELEY (4) (My cm) cm) Cm) cH) (may > Cm) Cm) cm) (A) CH) cA) (A) (mH) (#) 0.00 o&275 0.00 260 0,00 280 0000 265 0,00 280 0000 e&75 0,00 290 290 «08S 298 17S 098 175 290 0490 285 190 097 «0185 1,00 «180 1052 225 10865 155 1,02 1eo2 235 1.24 .a05 1019 0185 1,00 0135 2.72 20008 2076 0,005 1,74 Bod 7,010 2065 0,010 2053 00010 2,00 0060 2.80 3.65 3o24 0,090 3,43 G,00 ©,220 ayi4 G,88 0,190 G,9} 5,74 5,09 6,80 o.a2 7.08 Toa? 8.23 8,80 6,00 9091 10012 11,95 11090 11,007 11.97 11008 0710 RANGE 1,5 RANGE Be0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE Ty6 Sta ELEy ara ELE STA ELEY 8Ta ELE Sta ELEV sta ELEV ota ELEV Sta) ELeV Cm) My «m) om) cM) CH) (my (mH) (A) (M) cM) (M) (#) cm) tm) cm) 0,00 875 0200 R85 0.00 298 3000 0275 1,00 e178 1000 195 1,40 145 1.30 0195 1085 0158 1030 135 2e30 6100 2015 0055 2.40 «2095 2020 110 2.80 005 2,85 2005S 3410 20035 2.90 020 3030 00065 3010 Pol1S 3.30 ©2085 3030 0,005 4.00 140 3.50 3.80 2.045 3020 20039 020 02140 9.90 20165 4900 4.40 e155 3030 20100 ae7%0 9,40 3.20 o.835 3.36 ©.50 5.90 e626) 6.40 7,80 6070 24300 Yoko 6,65 7.10 6335 6 ®,80 7.70 9.20 10,00 8,00 100 11,90 8,00 11010 090 @ 0 9,20 11.090 0,708 9,00 10,30 10,90 11,40 11.20 ©0079 $1090 $1090 eo710 TEST 7 RANGE 1,5 RANGe 2,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7.6 Sta ELEV ata 6 ELEY 81a ELEY Sta ELEY Bia ELEY STA ELEY Sta ELEY Sts ELV (4) (Hy (4) (¥) cH) (4) (my (4) (hy (my cm) (4) (mM) cm) (a) cH) 0.00 0000 295 0.00 2290 0090 295 0.00 290 0.00 1,53 1083 ,085 1.30 150 1e23 4180 295 185 208 2,02 2.30 ,04S 1.394 ,085 1023 2095 295 4100 208 2.38 2079 ©,030 1.23 .090 1,35 2.82 3.38 1e72 0,025 1,75 3.30 Gell 2029 ©,100 2.65 Ge66 108 040 o,135 3.07 5.78 2.200 3,04 oo11S 3,09 6546 0.230 3.35 0.135 3,90 Ye2a 4.00 -205 4,69 7.80 4,76 2,165 Soi? 6.77 5030 o.adS Soot 9,00 6e10 e220 o.32 10,00 6,70 0,308 ©.68 11200 7o33 0,305 7.07 12.25 8.81 8,36 6.98 9,00 12,85 6718 9.53 0,555 10,00 10,00 ©2390 12088 oo 91S 11,00 11,00 e718 41,90 12,a8 ©, 718 12,29 64 RaNGe 108 ata (m) 0.00 ELEv cM) 0845 0B15 oll 2040 20025 2007S 20065 eotlo 20145 eohT9 eos RANGE 1,5 87a cm) 0.00 1013 1,38 1,08 1,82 2,03 3,09 3,38 3,85 4,23 4,7? 3,87 $,0a EL6y (My e870 0155 RaNGe 1.3 Sra (mH) 0,00 1,04 1,04 2,07 2,04 3,48 3091 4,15 9,42 5.05 3.60 6.40 6,95 7.43 6,35 6,90 9,97 10,90 11,15 11,92 ELEev (My 2280 0133 0135 e0010 RANGE 1.9 Sra Lav cm) CM) 0,00 285 1e$0 blo 2.30 ec08o 3410 ©6085 3,22 000%0 3,48 3,79 4,25 Soi? 0,62 7,43 6,03 9.91 10.60 $1.90 eoVlo MaNGe 8.0 67a LEV Cm) cM) 0.00 280 032 20S 090 oll 079 0030 2.0023 RaNGe ara cm) 0.00 098 1207 1.85 2.05 2.85 3.68 Goi3 445 5.02 S079 052 6.97 7000 0,30 9,28 10,00 10,69 11.95 RANGE ara cm) 0.00 to3a 1060 1270 a.sa 3.02 ais 6a $.28 oo10 bo O) 6 9097 16.353 11,98 1109S @.0 QLev (4) 0283 0175, 0135 0018 20015 2009S 20108 20155 eo2l0 20150 20250 20300 eo303 2036S @o430 20463 2,099 20508 0 8.0 ELEV cH) 0290 0120 2090 2070 20020 20040 20150 20180 20180 20260 20500 20350 2,440 e520 29010 20090 20710 RANGE 00 ata BLE cy OH) 0.00 042 045 1038 1086 231 Sot 3076 a.3a @081 5058 66S RANGE 3.0 STA ELEY cm) (M) 0.00 ,a9 todo 115 1073 078 2,02 ,078 8069 0,020 3.03 0,080 3036 0,070 30% 5 $015 6.00 0097 7033 RANGE 3.0 ora ELEW cm) (*) RANGE 300 Ta elev cm) (*) TEST 8 RANGE 4,0 Sta ELev Cm) (4) 0.00 299 o79 «0218 09S 0070 1,76 ©0015 2063 oo120 3003 00175 23150 20170 eo2tS $1.93 TEST 9 RANGE 4,0 Sta ELEV (m) (m) 0.00 300 1038 090 2.02 0065 2.33 3,07 3,42 3,07 2,08 S.S7 e015 RanGE 4,0 Sta ELEV (my) CM) 0.00 300 1.99 0115 1.65 0108 2.37 3079 G32 9,70 5.08 0,98 Tae 6,24 9009 10,79 11093 RANGE 4,0 Sta LEV Cm) (mH) 0.00 .300 093 0190 Leas 1,Aa 2.00 3.05 3.58 G49 11.03 65 RANGE 90 8Ta ELEY (A) 4) 0000 300 002 0210 006 0130 1063 e010 2oP1 eot2S Joto 3068 4008 9065 050 7058 RanGe 3,0 ala ELev cm) cM) RANGE 600 sta ELev cm) (4) 0.00 300 076) «oaSd 083 4118 1078 0,015 2005 0,065 2068 3.22 4,03 S018 5055 6092 0,08 RANGE 6,0 ata Lev Cm) Cm) 10,01 0,000 11.00 0,705 RANGE 650 sya ELEV (ms) (4) 0.00 300 1.66 115 2.09 0,009 3033 2,070 3079 0,090 4,63 e513 5.63 0,100 6052 0,253 20350 0445 2,390 20078 RANGE 6,0 BTA ELev (M) cm) e310 0200 0120 2015 2013 ©.035 3,20 ©,070 2138 4,98 0,205 5.93 0,270 6,92 ©3525 7.31 0,308 11091 90705 W072 RANGE va cm) 0.00 1028 1081 203k 2060 7.0 ELev cm) RANGE To BTA tLev (m) (a) 0,00 «265 0220 0155 e013 e015 eolTS 7018S eo2es 20233 ©0300 eeG0S 0053S 70085 2909S RANGE 796 Sta =ELEV Cm) cm) 0.00 1,24 2,00 2,09 3023 3,83 8.62 $000 6 1107) o703 RANGE Too ya elev Cm) (LP) 0.00 0305 075 0205 1,02 0165 1.15 1.80 2017 Joid 3.65 4,a2 TEST 12 Rance 1,9 ManNGe 8.0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE Sra ELty ora ELcy ara eLey $Ta ELEv sta sta ELEV Sta Cm) My (m) CH) (m) cM) (m) Cm) (A) cm) cm) cr) 0280 0.90 0290 0,00 ,300 0.00 310 0.00 0.00 08g 070 «2208 1.18 ,120 1015 0135 1037 1025 e1a5 0138 1.74 1.37 0095 2001 1.60 2050 2200 2095 2070 2.90 3030 2.28 080 3o10 2.80 3092 2066 4068 3036 3.02 3080 3oG2 00063 3.92 3o61 aou2 3.68 20070 Got O21 5.00 9.00 26130 S030 5.00 5.92 G.70 e140 $082 5.58 6080 Sool 0200 08a 6.93 Pod 7090 7.20 oT 0078 7093 6.45 7,42 000 8,88 @.12 8.80 10020 9.57 10000 9.30 11.08 10015 $007 100a7 11085 10086 10016 itooa 10,00 11040 10068 41,00 14093 oo 705 11020 11083 TEST 13 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3.0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RanGE 7,6 Sra ELEY Sta ELEY Sta ELEV sta ELEY Sta ELEV Sra + Lev cH) CH) (my (4) (A) CM) (4) cH) Cm) (*) (my cm) 0.00 ,310 0.00 »310 0,00 o315 0000 310 0.00 088 = ,180 050 «5245 084 4200 082 9810 299 1059 095 175 1o24 210 1050 0130 1.83 2.09 1.02 0140 1.87 130 2020 2005 2,53 2.33 1.84 055 2.48 010 2098 00005 3,39 2.92 294 0010 2075 20050 3053 aaa 3.2 2,80 00093 2.96 0,085 Goa2 So3t Ho4} 3,40 00195 3,09 ©5450 So0a @,28 G@433 00180 3.68 0,258 5.99 0091 Go42 05180 0088 7678 Sol} eo2l0 0,77 5.95 33 6076 9.30 10,02 7246 10035 t1.at 8,77 11038 11,97 r) 10.d6 11,08 10.39 0,600 11017 11083 2080 11.98 11099 eo710 11005 0.910 TEST 14 RANGE 1.3 RANGE 320 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 0,0 RANGE 700 RANGE Y,6 $Ta ELV eta LEV BTa ELEV Sto ELEV STs ELEY STA ELEY Sta ELEY (H) 4) cH) (4) (my Cm) (ib) (4) (4) (4) (my cm) (my cm) 0,00 885 0.00 ,300 0,00 305 0000 0505 0,00 0305 040 B40 0000 040 o13 300 0000 0235 033) 0255 039 0225 082 035 ofS 0170 092 070 20% 1035 0,075 1.22 020 1072 1,26 030 1079 2,110 1082 ©,040 2022 1053 ©6020 2026 0,200 2052 e6110 2.95 2023 ©2080 3020 0,220 2061 20155 3065 2091 20200 3093 0,240 3030 ©2240 Goay 3658 062% 0,95 Go23 0,260 $80 6074 Food 8.82 9,85 100% 11039 11093 RANGE 1,3 RANGE 2,0 RANGE 3,0 RANGE 4,0 RANGE 5,0 RANGE 6,0 RANGE 7,0 RANGE 7.6 STA EL Ey STs GLew eva Sta ELEY Blo ELEV STA ELEV Sta ELEY Sta ELE (4) my 4) CH) cH) (ny (4) (m) cH) cm) cH) Cm) cM) CH) cm) 0,00 88 0.00 «285 0.00 0.00 .@AS 0200 295 1,10 2340 085 0178 263 285 2180 295 0190 1,15 265 6135 263 085 0125 1e3o 0125 1,35 1.83 20010 1.83 1.13 0120 1e6a 2,05 2.46 22090 2.24 1077 6015 2060 2,60 3035 on230 2631 3.00 26085 2090 3,35 3.92 ev231 2.95 3.30 06155 3o3a 4.20 G.00 70285 3.48 S.o2 5,50 05 6300 W@o28 3.83 6,75 0,95 e326 S017 4004 7.75 7.93 ©2400 6026 G25 8,75 6.80 7.455 5.05 10,07 16.08 05509 6.45 41,515 11010 7007 41,93 11593 6.78 10,97 20420 10010 11593 ©3570 11020 14093 00700 11,93 e709 11093 66 APPENDIX C PLOTTED BEACH PROFILES 67 St CLONVE LLonvst LLONYST LLONYE CLONVST CLONVE LLONvSt CLONE 3180 at OF 02 ST St (81a30u) u0T BIS 6 9 ge asuey (@ 39 1) @ LSAL © LLinret CO INrét CA CLanret LLIN 6t GLANCEt (WH) NOTLBAAT3 LLIN Et & LOAN 6t Leinret 3180 O NOTLULE ST NNLUO WWINDZTYOH TMS SY WNLVO DWOITLYZA NOTLIGOd JNIVIYOHS -\y at OE 02 (8123 00) uotjeI¢g 6 :) € T LSaL (HW) NOJLBA3RT3 68 st CL1I0L LL1A30L CLL904 61904 CL1390L CL1S0L 61904 LL1L30L 3180 Zt SL OL OY (819390) u0TIeI§ 6 9 € -----= wane wee eee ee eS ee ee ee € LSaL ° LLONUST LLONVE ve LLONVE LLONVST LLONVE (W ) NOTLYAZ13 LLONVST & LLOnvest LLONVE 3100 O NOT1LU1E SI WNLWO TWINDZTYOH TMS SI WNLYO WITLYSA NOILISOd JNIDVIYOHS -\ ey 09 09 os 03 asuey (82978) uoTIeIS 6 9 € ce J° 7) 2 LSAL CW) NOTLBAS1T3 69 st 433062 C495062 LLIS5062 66335062 493062 6493062 6493062 6693062 31080 at SL OF of 02 gt as8uey (810300) uot IBIS 6 9 Ec G LSaL © GLAONST CLAONST rz LLAONST CCAONST CCAONS1 (WH) NOTLBAIT3 LLAONSS s LLAONSI CLAONSS 3100 O NOTLH1E 8] NNL¥O IWINOZIYOH WS 6} WNALYO WITLYSA NOJLISOd INIIIYOHS oN (81a}am) u0T BIS Zt 6 9 Ec Y LSaL (WH ) NOTLBA3RT3 70 ( 819} 0m) uot{IeI§ (819300) uot{egas 81 at 6 9 E 0 $1 a} 6 9 ec BLYUNET Gh. PPPS SO aE SRST OSS ° puegse gi ooo eeebese soeesuee se ee QLYYNET fj}, HOSES BE Sagas onaascoseaasanen cues acagse iit ooo es ieee cee BLYBWET OD are ae antge asa apo dcr a ~ QLOIIE 09 ~~ oo sero --------- BLYGNET OSS ee Scena ea Ee BLOIJE OS SS2S 5 ps5 SNse soos SSS SSS sire BLYONET 0) sa a te ST ae a es gr 2 QLOIIE Of - SSS 5 SPS Se eee ae (HW ) NOTLBA3Z13 BLYUNET 0) eer ISIS QLOIIE oe ------ Besos GSOUUaNGOaS BLYYNET OCS care SE Pe ee ee p BLBIIJE O00 SF S72 Berea ae SE FS Ss HS rar sS= BLYUNET ea a a ae a ea a pee BLOIIJE Gl MSS SSS Saas SESS SSeS ee Sl SSe 3180 3180 asuey < isal 9 LSAL O NOJ118 67 WNLYO IBINOZIYOH VS 6] NALYO THITLYIA NOTLISOd INTIZYOHS aN (Ww 1) NOTLWA373 71 St BLAUNGT BLABNGT BLAUNET BLABNET BLAUNGT BLAUNGT BLAUNGT BLAUNGT 3180 et OE 0% ST asuey (8103 0m) uotze 4S 6 9 & ------ we ew ee ee ee ee ee ee eee ee we ee we ewe ee ee ee ee ee ew eee ee 6 LSaL S BLYduT? BLYdUT? ra BLUdUTS? BLYdUTS BLYdNTS CW} NOILYAR13 BLYdUT? e BLYdUT? BLYdNT? 3180 O NOTLULE SI _WNLYO TWLNOZTYOH TMS SI NALWO WWOITLYSA NOILISOd JNJ VIYOHS aN eT gu 09 gs Or nh 0% S71 asuby (g19j30e0) uoTIBIEg 6 i) € 8 LSAL CW ) NOTLBWA3RT13 72 st BLINITS BLINN te BLINIIS BLINTOe BL 1NF0e BL 1nroe BL INFOS BL iNnro’g 3ibo et SU Ou 0s Or OF 02 ST asuey (82ajeM) uot BIS 6 +} & Il LSaL So SLNNFES’ BLNNrES? i SLNNFES? BLNNLES? BLNNrES™ CW ) NOTLYAZ13 BLNALTES © BLNALES? BLNAFES 3180 asuey O NOTLYU18 81 NNLWO IWLNOZTYOH AMS ST WNLvO WITLYSA NOTLISOd JNIVSYOHS \, ra Ot og OF 02 St (s29}0m) uot{zeqas 6 9 e OI LSaL (Ww) NOTLBART3 73 st BLd3S8t BLd3S8T BLAISRT BLd3S8t BLd38Rt BLd3SeBt BL d3Set BL d38et 31b0 (812300) uot38yS Zt 6 9 Se gy, ~~~ ~~ pe Sser----- SOO Soo [Oy ao, oe ae a IES SO =o §9 ~~~ ~~ pete oon eee eose US ~~r ota -n nooo BQSTOUSSS [of Aes gee a aed fe eee OC a Oe ge ti te Se a ee rie, eta" eee Sareea asuey €1 LSaL ° BLONVES? BLONYES a BLONVES BLONYVES? BLONVES CW ) NOTLBART3 BLONYET © BLONYES BLONVEZ 3180 O NOTLIU1E ST NNLYO WWILNOZTYOH TKS SY NALYO WOITLY3SA NOTLI60d INI ISYOHS -, (812320) uoTIBIS A 6 :) Ee eT LSaL (W ) NOILBAR13 74 St BLAONST BLADNST BLAONST BLADNST BLAONSI BLADNST BLAONST et Ov OF (8193 ow) UoTIBIES 6 9 G 0 $I Sa a See a as tee ee are ° QL19081 Cir Es SSS apie cieaaems emne 8619087 iia ee oi a cS ae = BL1L9081 eee oe, ee pet m ia eae ore ects fs BLLDOBT < D + aaa ee Se aera as i aa) £19091 = ) ae te ean ee ee = 2 eelaoo1 pas ina Se Ce ee ew wo 8419091 a gh co = Tek eg er ta ra QL19093 31u0 ST LSaL O NOTLULE §] WOLWO TVINOZIYOH WHS 6] WNLYO WITLYSA NOT1160d INI 1JYOHS Ne at OE 02 St asuey (siajem) uot BIS 6 3 ec we - ~~~ ~~ ~~ ee - 71 LSaL (Wo) NOTLBAR13 75 APPENDIX D SELECTED BREAKER BAR AND WATERLINE PHOTOS The following photos from 35-millimeter slides were taken at approximate Gun—hourcse sO 03)0) lo. andi 24% Figure 15 provides an explanation of features. The complete set of slides is available from CELIAC. 76 *PI-d ean3tTy *q[-d ean3sTy °OT-q ean3sTty °eT-q o1n3Ty vy *PZ-d eansty PAK MA ww EON GSS See Ses = aN SSK ae °qz7-d eansTy ~ N ASS ‘ SE Se — RS = SIs = °O7-G Ansty °e7-q eansty 78 *Pe-d ean3sTy °0E -q e1n3ty -ec-q oan3Ty 79 *Py-d eaindTy SS aaeeeEnee ae ae °qy—-q ean3sty °oh-G eansty 80 *pc-d eansTy °qc-a ean3tTyq °2¢-q eINns3Ty °ec-q 2in3Ty 81 *pg-d ean3Ty °99-C eANnsTy Kc SAQG@ SOR =< Shae SS Se 82 *P/-G eansTy *q/-d ean3Ty °o/-q ean3Ty °e/-q einsTy 83 *Pg-d ean3Ty *q8-d eansTy °28-q eansty — = SN ELEN 84 °P6-G PIN8Ty °q6-d ein3sTy °26-d ein3ty °e6-d eAn3sTy 85 *POT-d eanstTy °90T- eansty Se \ ‘ *d0T-d eansty QA i 86 *PII-d ean3ty *q11-G ean3ty °OTT-d_ ean3ty *eTT-d ein3Ty 87 APPENDIX E HOURLY CYCLE CALCULATIONS A listing of the program which calculates the values in this appendix, using the data in Appendix A, is available from CEIAC. 88 bsg°2 4og°%e2 M9EeE fee's toace 9nL°2 Site 646° S49°E neces 900°R ndd°e fo09°R vases 6o0f°n 200° odie nol?n oulen 605°S 01S Tones nug°s 0oe°’s Q.6°s oe2°2 ee4°k nge2°s oas°s 24e°e2 699°2 dbnes 40e°¢ 2oS°h co2°2 4es°2 eiace wsicee gea?t o£0°2 2us°t dec? 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