; . THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF GEORGE HOLL AGRIC. LIBRARY TIME TABLES BOTLING Beef, fresh per lb., 30 min. Beef, corned " " 25-30 " Mutton " " 15 " Ham.... " " 20-30 " Chicken " " 15 " Turkey " " 15 " Fowl " " 20-30 " Halibut " " 20 " Salmon... " " 20 " Bluefish and Bass. c " 15 " Small Fish.. . " " 10 " BROILING Steak, 1 inch thick 5-8 min. Steak, iy 2 inches thick. . . . 8-15 " Steak, 2 inches thick 15-20 " Mutton Chops 8-10 " Chicken 20-30 " Quail 8-10 " Squabs 10-15 " Fish, thick 15-25 " Fish., thin.. ..10-15 " BAKING Bread 45-60 min. Biscuits and Rolls 10-20 " Gems 15-25 " Boston Brown Bread 3 hrs. Corn Bread 30 min. Gingerbread 20-30 " Sponge Cake 15-60 " Plain Cake 30-60 " Fruit Cake 2-3 hrs. Cookies 10-15 min. Small Cakes. 15-20 " Pies.. ,.30-45 " ROASTING or BAKING Beef, rare per lb., 8-10 min. Beef, well done " " 15 " Beef, fillet entire time, 40-60 " Veal per lb., 25-30 min. Lamb " " 15 " Mutton " " 10-15 " Pork " " 30 " Venisoa " " 15 " Chicken " " 15 " Fowl " " 20-30 " Duck, tame. . .entire time, 40-60 " Duck, wild.... " " 15-30 " Goose per lb., 18 min. Turkey " " 15 " Partridges. . . .entire time, 30-40 " Pigeons " " 30 " Small birds. . . " " 10-15 " Large fish,... " " 60 " Small fish. . " " 20-30 " VEGETABLES Asparagus 15-30 min. Beet greens 30-60 " Beets 1-4 hrs. Brussels Sprouts 15-20 min. Cabbage 25-60 " Carrots 60-90 " Cauliflower 20-30 " Celery 20-30 " Corn 10-20 Dandeh'ons 60 " Kale 30-50 " Lettuce 10-1 5 " Lima beans 45-60 " Onions 30-60 " Parsnips 35-5o " Peas 20-60 " Potatoes, sweet 15-25 " Potatoes, white 20-35 " Salsify 30 " Spinach 20-30 Squash 30 " String beans 60-90 ' Tomatoes 20-30 " Turnips 1-3 hrs. 7s a Matter of Only a Few Seconds to Insert Pages MRS. FRYER'S LOOSE-LEAF COOK BOOK L \\ m 2 a. Take out screws. b. Turn to the end of the pages of writing paper in the front of the book take out one jr more leaves that you may wish to use (Illustration No. 1) put the balance back in place. The leaves taken out can be written upon separate from the Cook Book *f desired. c. Turn to the place in Cook Book where you want to insert the leaf (Illustration No. 2) and lift the upper portion from the screw posts. These pages containing personal recipes or memoranda can be inserted between the printed pages of the Cook Book under the sub- ject to which it refers. d. Insert the sheet of writing paper on the screw posts (Illustration No. 3). It will be seen that the pages cannot scatter and that all the pages are held in alignment. e. Replace the upper portion of the book (Illustration No. 4). As the leaves are all held in alignment, they readily slip into place. f. As the screws extend a trifle beyond the metal strip in the hinder, a rub of the thumb on the milled edge puts the screws securely in place (Illustration No. 5). The pages are then locked tight and cannot tear out. Pages in addition to those furnished with the Cook Book can be added. The binder pro- vides for extension and so long as the screws are tight the pages will always be locked tight. Additional writing paper leaves in packages of 50 sheets and punched ready for use can be obtained from booksellers or the publishers at 25 cents per package. IE COLORED SHEET FOLLOWING THE BLANK LEAVES MARKS WHERE COOK BOOK BEGINS MRS. FRYER'S LOOSE-LEAF COOK BOOK A COMPLETE COOK BOOK GIVING ECONOM- ICAL RECIPES PLANNED TO MEET THE NEEDS OF THE MODERN HOUSEKEEPER INCLUDING CHAPTERS ON BALANCED RATIONS ENTERTAINING SCHOOL LUNCHES DIET FOR WEIGHT CONTROL, ETC. ARRANGED BY JANE EAYRE FRYER INSTRUCTOR OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE Author of The Mary Frances Story-Instruction Books WITH BLANK PAGES FOR PRESERVING PERSONAL .RECIPES AND MEMORANDA, WHICH CAN BE INSERTED IN ANY PART OF THE BOOK UNDER ^HE SUBJECTS TO WHICH THEY REFER JUmtratri THE JOHN C.WINSTON COMPANY CHICAGO PHILADELPHIA TORONTO . Copyright, 1922, by THE JOHN C. WINSTON COMPANY PRINTED IN U. 8. A. AGRfC. LIBRARY THE HOUSEWIFE Strength and honor are her clothing; And she shall rejoice in time to come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; And in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, And eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; Her husband also, and he praiseth her, saying: Many daughters have done virtuously, But thou excellest them all. PROVERBS XXXI, 25-29. (Hi) M861500 COOKING means the knowledge of Medea, and of Circe, and of Calypso, and of Helen, and of Rebekah, and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs, and fruits, and balms, and spices; and of all that is healing and sweet in fields and groves, and savory in meats; it means carefulness, and invent- iveness, and watchfulness, and willingness, and readiness of appli- ance; it means the economy of your great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemists; it means much tasting, and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, and French art, and Arabian hospitality; it means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and always, ladies (loaf givers); and, as you are to see, imperatively, that everybody has something pretty to put on, so you are to see, yet more imperatively, that everybody has something good to eat. RUSKIN : Ethics of the Dust. PREFACE lively and intense interest now displayed everywhere in the art of cookery, which is at once the most ancient and the most modern of the arts, marks such an advance over the pioneer days of domestic science as only a teacher of that subject, or an experienced housekeeper who has kept step with the march of progress, can fully appreciate. The increasing knowledge of food materials and the work they perform in the body, the constant study of the principles of nutrition and of the causes of malnutri- tion, the many inventions and labor-saving devices of the present- day kitchen, the eagerness to try new methods and the willingness to adopt them when proved to be better, the desire to work with intelligence rather than by "the rule of thumb" all these are signs of the times indicating that domestic science is assuming an importance in our social fabric which augurs well for the future health and happiness of the American home. For those who wish to understand the "whys" of cookery and who does not? it is believed that the chapters in this book treating of the principles of cookery, the balanced ration, diet for weight control, school lunches, and kindred topics, will be found especially helpful. As to the recipes themselves, they have stood the tests of experi- ment and experience, and unless too many liberties are taken with them, they will bring the success every cook desires. They are as economical as consistent with wise selection and the variety which is the spice of appetite; and are planned for a family of four, because four seems to be the average number today. They can readily be divided by two for a family of two; multiplied by three- fourths for a family of three; multiplied by one-and-a-half for a family of six; or doubled for a family of eight. Some articles, like cakes, will serve more than four, but they will keep for several days, and are better made by the four-in-family measure. (V) Irf, PREFACE Every home-loving woman loves new recipes, and gathers them from all sources, begging them from friends, clipping them from magazines and newspapers, and pigeon-holing them in her kitchen cabinet or her desk for future use too often having the vexatious experience of being imable to trace their whereabouts when wanted; or she places them between the pages of her cook book, until the overstrained binding, having reached the limit of endur- ance, bursts, and but who need be told? The Invisible Loose- Leaf Binding Device has made the Loose-Leaf Cook Book possible, and it brings to you a method of keeping your cook book up to date. As the binding device admits of extension, memoranda and per- sonal recipes can be added at pleasure, so that your cook book will become increasingly valuable as a record of your own house- keeping experience. Acknowledgment is here made of the able assistance of Miss Helen Cramp, and of Miss Ada Z. Fish, in the preparation of the recipes; and of the kindness of other friends who have con- tributed their favorite recipes; especially of the courtesy of The Ladies' Home Journal for the use of illustrations which originally appeared in the pages of that magazine. The data and tables in regard to food values in this book are based chiefly on material furnished by the very helpful and instructive publications issued from time to time by the United States Government. (vi) CONTENTS PAGE THE PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY 1 The Human Engine Food as Fuel; Other Uses Wise Selection of Foods Table of Food Nutrients Purpose of Cooking Different Methods of Cooking Market- ing and Economy. ENTERTAINING 9 Invitations The Formal Dinner Party Introductions Seating the Guests Menu-Making Menus for Different Occasions Hints on Serving The Informal Dinner Afternoon Tea The Evening Collation. APPETIZERS 21 Their Place and Purpose. SOUPS 27 Food Values Soup Stocks: Meat, Vegetable, Cream Chowders Soup Accompaniments. FISH 43 Nutritive Value General Classification How to Clean. MEATS 55 Food Values Methods of Cooking Kinds and Cuts: Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork Combinations for Menu- Making. POULTRY AND GAME 81 Value as Food How to Select To Dress Poultry- Remarks on Game. FORCEMEATS, STUFFINGS, ETC 91 Their Uses. SAUCES 97 Why Valuable "Roux," or Foundation Suitable Sauces to Serve with Meat, Fish, Vegetables. (vii) I-L CONTENTS PAGE EGGS 107 High Food Value Principle of Cooking Albumen. MEAT SUBSTITUTES 117 Reasons for Lessening the Use of Meats Protein Needs of the Body Dinner Menus Without Meat. LEFT-OVERS 129 Their Use and Economy. VEGETABLES 135 Classification and Food Values. ENTREES 157 Their Economy and Attractiveness. SALADS V'L. ;?:,: 165 Their Hygienic Value Flavored Vinegars. PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS. . :[:''' 179 The Right Selection. FROZEN DESSERTS 201 Directions for Freezing. SWEET SAUCES ; . . . ....... , % . ;v . . . 213 Ways to Use. BREAD, HOT CAKES, ETC 219 Bread-Making How to Select Flour Yeast Breads General Directions Kneading Patent Mixers Baking, Oven Temperature Action of Yeast Action of Baking Powder Quick Bread Hot Cakes Recipe Proportions. CAKES IS 251 General Classes: Sponge or Butterless; Butter Cakes Mixing Baking Frostings, Plain and Ornamental Use of Pastry Bag Illustrated. PASTRY AND PIES 275 Remarks on Digestibility Baking Puff-Paste Half Puff-PastePlain Paste. (viii) L-L CONTENTS PAGE SANDWICHES AND SAVORIES 285 Their Varied Uses. CEREALS 293 Their Place in the Diet Methods of Preparing. CANDY 299 Its Use and Abuse Foundation Fondant. FRUIT 309 Dietetic Value. CANNING AND PRESERVING 315 Principles Involved The Cold-Pack Method Hot- Water Bath Water-Seal Steam Pressure Utensils- Preparation Definition of Terms Blanching Cold Dipping Packing Processi ng Vegetables Fruits Syrups Time Table for Blanching and Sterilizing Open Kettle Method General Directions Preserving Fruit Jelly-Making Marmalade. PICKLES AND CATSUPS .. 337 Their Purpose. BEVERAGES 343 Coffee, Tea, Cocoa: Their Physiological Effect Coffee Substitutes Fruit Drinks. INVALID COOKERY 351 Rules to Remember. FIRELESS COOKERY 361 A Boon to the Housewife Scientific Principles Differ- ent Kinds of Equipment Plain Cookers Steam Pres- sure The Automatic Electric Oven. CHAFING-DISH COOKERY 395 Different Kinds of Chafing Dishes Electric Equipment. CASSEROLE COOKERY 407 A Word about French Cooking Advantages of Using Different Kinds. (ix) L-L CONTENTS PAGE SIMPLE MENUS FOR A WEEK'S MEALS 414, 432 BALANCED RATIONS. 415 Principles of Nutrition Calories Food Groups and their Uses Vitamins Daily Energy Requirement Table of Daily and Weekly Energy Needs A Week's Food Supply How to Estimate Food Values Rules for Balancing Diet A Week's Menu Hundred-Calorie Portions in Common Foods. DIET FOR WEIGHT CONTROL .. 435 Causes of Overweight Curing One's Self Foods to Avoid What to Eat Exercise. How to Add Weight Foods to Avoid What to Eat Rest Tables of Height, Weight, Age. SCHOOL LUNCHES 443 Diet for the School Child Staple Requirements Des- serts Home Lunches Basket Lunches The School Lunch Room: Bills of Fare Tables of Height, W T eight, Age. TIME TABLES FOR COOKING (Inside front cover) WEIGHTS AND MEASURES (Inside back cover) INDEX ! 453 (x) ILLUSTRATIONS SUGGESTIONS FOR AFTERNOON TEA (Color Plate) .... Frontispiece PAGE PROPER ARRANGEMENT OF TABLE 14 BUFFET SUPPER FOR AN EVENING COMPANY (Color Plate) . . 20 SOLE, COD, FLOUNDER 48 How TO SPLIT AND DRESS LOBSTER 52 CARVING (BEEF) 62 CARVING (MUTTON) 74 LEFT-OVERS 132 ENTREES 162 BANANA DAINTY, ALMONDS WITH EGGS 190 RAISED WITH COMPRESSED YEAST 224 .FRESH FROM THE OVEN (Color Plate) 234 How TO USE A PASTRY TUBE 272 How TO MAKE PASTRY 282 A WELL-EQUIPPED KITCHEN (Color Plate) 314 FIRELESS COOKER AND DISHES PREPARED BY FIRELESS METHOD 370 DAINTY LUNCHEON EN CASSEROLE 410 A WEEK'S SUPPLY OF MILK, MEAT AND SIMILAR FOODS FOR AN AVERAGE FAMILY 426 A WEEK'S SUPPLY OF FATS AND FAT FOODS FOR AN AVERAGE FAMILY , 426 A WEEK'S SUPPLY OF CEREAL FOODS FOR AN AVERAGE FAMILY 428 A WEEK'S SUPPLY OF SUGAR AND OTHER SWEETS FOR AN AVERAGE FAMILY 428 A WEEK'S SUPPLY OF VEGETABLES AND FRUITS FOR AN AVER- AGE FAMILY 432 COUNTING THE COST OF A WEEK'S FOOD SUPPLY 432 PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY I/-L The knowledge of science which is attainable by mere reading, though infinitely better than ignorance, is knowledge of a very differ- ent kind from that which arises from direct contact with fact. HUXLEY. YH3HOOD 1() Kiv The cook holds the balance of power, and ofttimes sways destinies: the overthrow of Grease, the downfall of China, the dividing of Turkey what cook has not accomplished all of these in one short lifetime? Fables of a Rolling -Pin. PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY IN the days of our grandmothers, a woman who knew how to tempt the appetite with the richest and newest viands was accounted a good cook; but today the cook who deserves such a happy title must not only know how to appeal to the appetite, she must also understand what the human body needs, what foods are best adapted to its use, and how to prepare these foods in kind and quantity to meet its requirements. The cook who understands these things and does them is entitled to be called a good cook in the truest sense of the term. She realizes that health depends upon the food eaten, and that upon her shoulders, or rather in her hands, rests the welfare of her family and the nation; and she willingly assumes this Responsi- bility, knowing well what she is about. A serious matter then, is the planning of a day's meals; and scientists, realizing its importance, have in recent years devoted many hours of study and experiment to the principles of nutrition and nutritive food values. The Human Engine. The body has often been called a living engine, for it performs work and generates power. In other words, it is a living machine. All engines are run by the use of some kind of fuel. Coal, wood, gasoline and other substances are constantly fed to mechanical engines. Each type requires its own particular kind of fuel. In order to do its work properly, the human engine requires the right kind of fuel just as does any other engine. Food as Fuel; Other Uses. Food then is required by the body to supply heat and energy; but fuel foods are not the only kind required by the living mechanism, for the body is able to do what no man-made device is able to accomplish. When the parts 3 I/-L PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY become worn out, the living system uses food to repair the wasted tissues and bony structure. Not only can the body do this; but that it uses food for growth is constantly manifest in the develop- ment of children. Therefore, tissue-building or repair foods are required as well as fuel foods. Wise Selection of Foods. It is very evident, therefore, that the person who plans the meals for the family should understand how to select wisely the foods which supply the needs of the human mechanism. Foods are grouped according to their nutritive uses into the following classes: Proteins, Fats, Carbohydrates, Mineral Matters. FOOD AS PURCHASED CONTAINS TABLE OF FOOD NUTRIENTS Water. EDIBLE PORTION T . . e. g., flesh of meat, yolk and white of eggs, wheat, flour, etc. Nutrients Protein. Fats. Carbohydrates. Mineral matters. REFUSE. e. g., bones, entrails, shells, bran, etc. USES OF NUTRIENTS IN THE BODY. PROTEIN Builds and repairs tissue. e. g., white (albumen) of eggs, curd (casein) of milk, lean meat, gluten of wheat, etc. FATS Are stored as fat e. g., fat of meat, butter, olive oil, oils of corn and wheat, etc. CARBOHYDRATES Are transformed into fat. e. g., sugar, starch, etc. MINERAL MATTERS (ASH) Share in forming bone, assist in digestion, etc e. g., phosphates of lime, potash, soda, etc. All serve as fuel to yield energy in the forms of heat and muscular power. PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY The Proteins form tissue and muscle for growth and repair. They are found in lean meat, white of eggs, gluten of wheat, curd of milk, beans, peas, etc. The Fats are either used as fuel foods or stored as fat. Examples are the fat of meats; the oils of corn, peanut, and olive, etc. The Carbohydrates, such as starch and sugar, are fuel foods. All three of the above, Protein, Fats, and Carbohydrates, serve as fuel to yield energy in the forms of heat and muscular power. The Mineral Matters (ash) share in forming bone and in acting as body regulators. They are found in fruits and in many vegetables. Water enters every tissue, regulates body temperature, and aids in the work accomplished by all other foods. In planning a day's meals, fuel foods, growth-and-repair foods, and mineral matters should be provided in correct proportion. This subject is further discussed in the chapter on Balanced Rations. Purpose of Cooking. The purpose of cooking foods is threefold : to increase their nutritive value and render them more digestible; to develop their flavors; and to safeguard health by destroying germs and parasites. Many vegetables are indigestible if uncooked; this is not only because their coarse cellular structure must be softened by cook- ing, but because most vegetables are made up largely of starch; and starch in its raw state cannot be appropriated by the body. Witness the pain caused by eating green apples, due to the presence of uncooked starch. In the case of the ripe fruit, the starch has been partially cooked by the heat of the sun's rays. Exposure to heat, as in boiling, causes the starch grains to swell and burst the hard outer coverings in which they are enclosed. The starches thus softened and released are converted during the digestive process into sugar, which the body so readily appropriates. If the starch grains are subjected to a greater degree of heat, as in baking, a greater a chemical change takes place which approaches the changes made during the process of digestion. For this reason, toasted and twice-baked breads are easily assimilated. PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY It follows, therefore, that starchy foods require thorough cook- ing. This does not mean, however, that all foods should be made very soft, nor that they should be predigested. The digestive system of a healthy person likes to do its own work, and both desires and requires a certain amount of bulk. This much-needed bulk is largely supplied by the cellulose, or fibre-structure of vege- tables, which has no nutritive value in itself, but has great mechan- ical value. In some forms it is not too coarse to be used uncooked, as in lettuce and celery; but as found in potatoes, the cereal grains, and in other combinations with starches, it needs to be softened by the cooking which renders the starch digestible. Cooking develops and intensifies the flavors which render food more appetizing, and therefore more digestible. This is particu- larly true of meats. Cooking also serves to destroy germs and parasites; and, in the case of meats, to break down their heavy muscular fibres and tough connective tissues. Albuminous Foods should be cooked at a low temperature. This refers principally to meats and eggs. Meats belong to the protein group of food, and contain much fibrin which closely resembles albumen. The simplest form of albumen is seen in the white of an egg. Heat hardens albumen, long exposure to intense heat rendering it almost insoluble, and therefore indigestible. For this reason eggs should be cooked at a low temperature; soups and broths likewise to extract the full flavor of the juices. Baked and roasted meats should first be exposed to intense heat, to sear the surface and thus prevent the rich juices from escaping. After a coating is formed, the balance of the cooking should be done at a low temperature. These two principles, thorough cooking for starchy foods, and low temperature for albuminous foods, are a key to the reasons for the various methods given in the chapters that follow. Different Methods of Cooking. Foods are cooked in their own juices, or by the use of water, or by the use of fats. Roasting, baking, broiling, and pan-broiling are examples of cooking foods in their own juices. PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY Roasting, which means cooking before a clear open fire with exposure to air, has practically gone out of use with the passing of the open fireplace for cooking, although gau/e-door ovens are a substitute. By roasting, the flavor is better developed, and the juices are better retained than by any other method of cooking meats. Baking, which means cooking in a closed oven, has largely taken the place of roasting. Broiling, or cooking on a grill over glowing coals, or exposed to gas flames, is the nearest to roasting of the methods of cooking now employed. Pan-broiling is cooking in a saute pan or spider without the use of either water or fat. Boiling, stewing, braising, and fricasseeing are various methods of cooking by use of water, and are explained in the chapter on "Meats," page 59. Frying and sauteing, methods of cooking by the use of fats or oils, are also explained on page 60. Measurements. On the last page of this book will be found tables of weights and measures. The standard measuring cup holds one-half pint, and all measurements are level. Fill measures more than full, then draw a knife across the top to level. Just as a skilled workman enjoys using good tools, so the good and intelligent cook enjoys having a well-equipped kitchen work-room. There is not only inspiration for the cook in such inexpensive conveniences as the transparent glass measuring cup, the handy nest of measuring spoons, the flexible kitchen spatula, the copper wire dish mop, the revolving egg-beater, and the potato-ricer, GLASS MEASURING CUP NEST OF SPOONS 7 USING SPATULA TO SCRAPE A BOWL PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY but they have an additional value in stirring the intellectual curiosity of the younger members of the household, who absorb from these workman-like tools a new respect for the art of cookery, and not unfrequently manifest a desire to learn to use them. Marketing and Economy. The wise housekeeper does not market over the telephone except in emergency, but goes to the market herself. Her aim is to provide the food which her family needs; and to get the best returns for the money she spends. In order to provide the right kind and amount of food, she has made a study of foods, and of balanced rations; and in order to get the best returns for the money expended, she selects in person the food required, for she knows that the price she pays is no test of the nourishment the food will yield. The scarce article is not neces- sarily the article to be most desired. Strawberries on the table with snow on the windows are surely an extravagance. The expen- sive cuts of meat are expensive because there are only a few of them in each animal. Cheaper cuts, if cooked skilfully, yield as much nutriment, and will be fully as much relished. But it would be unwise to pay more for fuel for cooking a tougher cut of meat than was saved in the difference in the purchase price. The fire- less and steam cookers have practically solved this problem. No kitchen should be without one. In the use of the less tender ends of meat, and for "left-overs," a meat grinder is one of the best means of economy. It is often a foolish pride which prevents a housekeeper from saving. Get what you ask for. Do not accept substitutes. Help the Government Pure Food Laws by observing labels. These laws are a wonderful advance in bettering conditions. Keep a pad and pencil hanging in the kitchen for market memoranda. Do not purchase what you do not need because it is cheap. If practicing economy, avoid "package goods" because a goodly part of the price goes for the fancy wrappings. Where possible, buy by weight. ENTERTAINING fc-L Hospitality the pleasant practice of entertaining friends and strangers ivith kindness and liberality. The Hostess. 10 ENTERTAINING THE most formal of social functions is the formal dinner. The dignity of the occasion demands that everything be correct, the invitations issued long in advance, and the courses many and elaborate, as befitting the ceremonious affair. It is to be doubted if either guest or hostess finds the formal dinner comparable in enjoyment with the little, or informal dinner, for in this the true spirit of hospitality seeks its opportunity to charm. The courses are few as compared with the formal dinner, and all details have been thought out by the hostess with a consideration for the personality of her guests. The formal luncheon and the less formal breakfast differ sim- ilarly; although, of course, no luncheon is as ceremonious as the formal dinner. The most approved hour for the breakfast party is twelve o'clock, but it is sometimes placed as early as ten or eleven; and it may be said that this pleasing manner of gathering friends about one especially recommends itself in the summer time, when elaborate affairs are less attractive than in[the cooler seasons. Afternoon tea is continually becoming more popular, and for good reason. From its very simplicity, it is no tax on the hostess, and is a most welcome and restful break in the "busy -ness" of a busy day. At an "At Home" day, which may be a set day and hour at intervals throughout several weeks, a hostess receives many of her friends at one time, and although she owes each guest a call in return, she has the pleasure and satisfaction of being "in" when her friends call. The evening reception) may be an elaborate affair, if the occasion requires; but in its best estate it is a simple, informal way of introducing a pleasant visitor to one's circle of friends, or of honoring a noted musician, author, or other celebrity. 11 L-L ENTERTAINING INVITATIONS As has been said, the dinner takes first rank among general entertainments and usually involves more or less formality. Invitations are sent out at least two weeks in advance, and should be answered immediately. The formal invitation is engraved; the guest's name, hour and date written in by hand, Mr. and Mrs. Henry B. Anderson request the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. James Brown's company at dinner on Wednesday, April the fourteenth at eight o'clock. 12 West Burton Place, March the thirty -first. For a less formal dinner a note in the first person may be sent : My dear Mrs. Brown: Will you and Mr. Brown dine with us informally on Thursday evening., January the eighteenth, at eight o'clock? Sincerely yours, Elizabeth Smith Anderson. 12 West Burton Place, January the fourth. The dinner in this case may be quite as formal as that for which the third-person invitation was sent, and evening dress is required. For a very informal little dinner an unconventional note is sent a week or less before the date set; and dinner dress is not required. Invitations to luncheon are similar to those used for dinner, although, as the affair is generally less formal, the engraved invita- tion is much less frequently used. Invitations for afternoon or evening occasions vary according to the number of guests and the degree of formality. For small, informal affairs the hostess simply uses her visiting card (or one engraved a trifle larger), writing in the lower left-hand corner, "Cards," "Musicale," or whatever the entertainment is to be, 12 L-L ENTERTAINING and under it the date and hour. She may write under her own name, "To meet Miss Mary Jones" if the entertainment is given in honor of Miss Jones. Often, however, the cordial little note of invitation is preferred by many, perhaps because it carries a more direct and personal appeal. It is a subtle compliment, sometimes well calculated to make a diffident invited guest feel that she is really wanted. The Formal Dinner Party For the large dinner party, guests are expected to arrive at the hour appointed, and courtesy does not demand that the hostess wait more than fifteen minutes for a tardy guest. Each gentleman finds on a tray in the dressing-room a small addressed envelope containing a card on which is written the name of the lady whom he is to escort to dinner, and "R" or "L" in one corner to indicate on which side of the table they are to sit. If he does not know the lady, the hostess should see that he is presented to her. Introductions The hostess stands near the door and receives the guests, making such introductions as are convenient. In general, the "roof introduction'* is considered sufficient especially at large dinners. Introductions, however, should be given wherever possible, for they make intercourse among one's guests easier. On the other hand, it is not considered good form for a hostess to interrupt a conversation between guests for the purpose of making an introduction, or to introduce a guest upon his entrance to more than one other at a time. In making introductions the names should be pronounced as distinctly as possible; nothing is more discourteous to one's guests than a muttered introduction. A certain deference is to be observed in regard to sex, age, and office or public position. The gentleman is always presented to the lady, the usual form being, "Mrs. Brown, allow me to present Mr. Smith: Mr. Smith, Mrs. Brown." In introducing two women, either may be pre- sented to the other, unless the difference in their ages is very evident, in which case the younger should be presented to the older. With regard to office or station, the presentation is made to the distinguished guest, thus: "Governor Clark, allow me to present Mr. Newton: Mr. Newton, Governor Clark.'* The 13 I/-L ENTERTAINING exact words used in introductions are immaterial, so that the proper order is preserved. Where sex, age, and position play no part, it is sufficient to say "Mrs. Bell, this is Mrs. Adams: Mrs. Adams, Mrs. Bell"; or, in the case of two men, "Mr. Grant, Mr. Wilson." The tactful hostess usually adds to an introduction some remark which will enable the guests to converse more readily. She may say, for instance, "Mrs. Brown, allow me to present Mrs. Smith; Mrs. Smith has just returned from London"; or "Mrs. Smith, this is Mrs. Brown; two such ardent club women should know each other." There are very few persons who will not be grateful for some such hint. Seating the Guests The servant watches the number of guests, and when all have arrived announces dinner; or in case of a belated guest, he waits for a signal from the hostess. When dinner is announced the host offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit at his right. The other couples follow; then, last, the hostess with the gentleman who is to sit at her right. Guests are enabled to find their places easily by means of "place cards," on which the name of each guest is distinctly written. Confusion in seating the guests is thus avoided, and those who are congenial can be placed near each other. The host and hostess may sit at the ends of the table or in the middle of each side. The lady who is to be especially honored sits on the host's right, she who is to be honored next, on his left. Similarly, two gentlemen are honored by seats on the right and left of the hostess. The hostess should, as far as possible, bring together only guests who "mix well," and should select the dinner partners tactfully. Two very quiet people should not be seated together, or two who have very decided opinions, or two who are known to be uncon- genial. The dinner should be a feast of good things other than food, and conversation should be as entertaining as possible. Upon host and hostess, of course, devolves the duty of keeping conversation alive, though the guests are expected to do their part. Many a hostess has saved the day by a bon mot or a tactful change of subject. Some women are born hostesses, most women can be made, or rather can make themselves, successful hostesses. The chief essentials are tact, which is the saving grace of women, the ability to be interested in many things, and true kindliness. 14 L-L ENTERTAINING Courtesy, after all that is, true courtesy is a matter of the heart, and is not dependent upon a knowledge of social usages. Some women, notably poor conversationalists, are still very charming hostesses. In them thoughtfulness and tact make up for lack of brilliancy. For the sake of her own peace of mind, however, the hostess should leave nothing to chance. All should be carefully planned beforehand, the servants properly instructed, and everything in readiness before the guests arrive, so that the dinner may proceed with the smoothness of clockwork, with the hostess as free from care as the guests at her own table. Menu-Making In arranging the menu too much should not be attempted and each course should be in pleasing contrast to the last. Except for a very elaborate dinner, raw oysters, a clear soup, fish, one entree, a roast with potatoes and one other vegetable, salad with cheese straws or crackers and cheese, an ice, fruit and black coffee should be sufficient. Butter is seldom served except at the informal dinner. OUTLINE MENU FOR FULL COURSE DINNER SHELLFISH ("Appetizer") on ice with lemon light oyster crackers. CLEAR SOUP in soup plates, half full thick slices of bread or roll folded in the napkin. HORS D'CEUVRES ("Relishes") olives, celery, radishes, etc., passed after soup is served. FlsH with appropriate sauce, potato balls and cucumbers if possible. ENTREE patties, timbale of chicken, or creamed dishes in paper cases (bread passed). MEAT with appropriate sauce, jelly, potatoes, one vegetable with fruit. (Sherbet, or "punch," may be served as a course.) GAME, OR YOUNG POULTRY served whole if small; others in halves or slices; varying accompaniments. SALAD (usually vegetable) served with the game may be accompanied with Brie, Roquefort, or cream cheese and crackers. (Salad and cheese sticks may be served in place of game.) HOT PUDDING with sauce. GLACE ice, ice cream or frozen dessert svith sweet wafers. DESSERT nuts, fruits, bonbons, crackers, cheese. COFFEE black, served with sugar alone. (Cafe noir.) 15 ENTERTAINING COMPLETE MENU WAFERS BLUE POINTS HORSERADISH CONSOMME OLIVES CELERY SALTED ALMONDS BAKED FILLETS OF HALIBUT, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE POTATO BALLS CUCUMBERS CHICKEN TIMBALES SPRING LAMB MINT SAUCE NEW POTATOES IN CREAM ASPARAGUS TIPS ORANGE PEKOE SHERBET ROASTED GROUSE LETTUCE, FRENCH DRESSING PLUM PUDDING, LEMON SAUCE MAPLE MOUSSE SWEET WAFERS FRUIT ROQUEFORT CHEESE NUTS BONBONS CAFE Norn A LITTLE DINNER MENU ANCHOVY CANAPES CONSOMME ROAST DUCK WITH BROWN SAUCE CREAMED CELERY BAKED SWEET POTATOES CRACKERS STUFFED OLIVES FRUIT AND NUT SALAD CREAM CHEESE ICE CREAM COFFEE A LUNCHEON MENU MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL TOMATO BISQUE BAKED FISH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE CREAMED PEAS POTATO CROQUETTES CUCUMBER SALAD WHIPPED JELLY COFFEE SUGGESTIONS FOR LATE BREAKFAST MENUS FRUIT OR FRUIT JUICE TOAST OR MUFFINS OR WAFFLES EGGS OR LIGHT MEAT SALAD, CHEESE AND WAFERS FRENCH-FRIED OR LYONNAISE POTATOES COFFEE (IN LARGE CUPS) RADISHES, OLIVES, SALTED NUTS 16 ENTERTAINING All of these menus are more or less elaborate. They may be made much more simple by omitting the appetizers and desserts. For a dessert at luncheon, especially where children are served, cocoa with whipped cream is a welcome substitute. As people are learning to appreciate simplicity of diet more and more, there is a tendency to lessen efforts to plan overburdening bills of fare. HINTS ON SERVING The table should have its centerpiece of growing ferns or flowers, and two or four candlesticks with wax candles and pretty shades. No edibles, with the exception of bonbons, salted nuts or crystal- lized fruits in compotiers, appear upon the table. All the china used in the same course should match wherever possible, but a different set of plates is permissible for each course. A supply of extra silver should be laid out in convenient fashion on the sideboard, and finger-bowls, dessert plates, after-dinner coffee cups and spoons should be in readiness on the side table. Water in the finger-bowls should be warm, with perhaps a dainty flower or a leaf of rose geranium floating on the surface. 1. Food should always be placed before guests from the right. 2. When a dish is presented from which a guest is to help him- self, it should be passed to the left. 3. When a course is finished, the plate should be removed from the left. 4. Plates should be before the guests when they take seats at the table, and when one plate is removed it should be immediately replaced by another. 5. At the right of the plate have oyster fork, soup spoon and knives in the order of use, the one first needed farthest from the plate. On the left lay the forks in the order of use, the one first needed farthest from the plate. Let the bowls of the spoons and the tines of the forks be turned upward and the cutting edges of the knives toward the plate. The napkin, simply folded, is placed at the left of the forks and parallel to them with the open corners nearest the guest. A small thick piece of bread or a dinner roll may be laid on the napkin or inserted in the fold. The guest removes the napkin, leaving the bread at the side of the plate until he wishes to eat it. 6. Set the glass for water above the plate near the end of the knife. Each glass should be filled with cracked ice before the water is poured. 7. Before the dessert is served all the plates, small silver, salt 17 I^L ENTERTAINING and pepper shakers, and all the glasses that will not be used again, should be removed. Then the table should be "crumbed," using a silver crumb knife and tray or a napkin and plate. 8. Spoons or knives and forks for the sweet course are usually supplied after the table is cleared. Spoons or knives are laid to the right of the plate; forks to the left. If forks only are called for, they are placed at the right. 9. Black coffee in small cups (for which sugar is passed) is the last course, and should precede the finger-bowls unless the coffee is to be served to the ladies in the drawing-room. In that case the finger-bowls should be placed before the ladies leave the table. 10. If the coffee is to be served in the drawing-room the waitress covers a large tray with a white napkin, arranges the filled cups, smoking hot, upon it, and carries it into the room where the guests are assembled. Many hostesses prefer this way of serving. When there is only one pair of hands to do both cooking and serving, still less formality should be observed. The service plate should be omitted; all the knives and forks to be used should be upon the table, with salts and peppers at the corners of the table, or one for every two persons. Bread-and-butter plates, containing butter-ball, and a small butter knife should be placed at the left of the cover before dinner is announced, and a dinner roll folded into the napkin. Glasses should be filled with ice water and every- thing needed should be on the side table before the guests are seated. The plates for each course served on the table should be placed in a low pile, not more than three or four at a time, in front of the host or hostess. As each is filled the maid will lift it to her tray, carry and place it before the guest. Where there is no maid, as is the case in seven-eighths of Ameri- can homes, the tea- wagon, or " service wagon " may be a most con- venient substitute. Upon it, close at the left side of the hostess, may be placed all the extra accessories for the various courses, and it may be used later for carrying soiled dishes into pantry and kitchen. THE INFORMAL DINNER The informal dinner, to which only a few guests are invited, is served almost like the formal dinner; but where there is only one waitress it is customary to do much of the serving at the table. For this simple dinner, soup, a roast, two vegetables, a salad, dessert and coffee amply suffice. Soup may be served by the hostess from a tureen. The waitress IS i.-i. ENTERTAINING takes one soup-plate at a time from the sideboard, placing it in front of the hostess; when it is filled she passes it to the guest and brings another. Fish may be served by the host and passed in the same manner as the soup. The roast is carved by the host: but entrees, if included in the menu, are served from the side, Vegetables and sauces should be placed on the side table and passed to each guest when required. The salad may be brought in on individual plates or served on the table by either host or hostess. The dessert is served by the hostess, and the coffee, unless brought in cups from the kitchen, is poured by her. Bon- bons and relishes are usually on the table. AFTERNOON TEA The serving of afternoon tea with its dainty accompaniment of sandwiches or cake is coming into ever greater popularity, whether at an entertainment to which cards for "Afternoon tea at four o'clock" are sent, or during the customary afternoon calls. In the former case, naturally, the refreshments are usually more elaborate, though in no case should they be heavy, as dinner is so close at hand. For the small reunion of friends, the tea should be made and served by the hostess in the drawing-room or living-room; or in summer weather, out-of-doors. Simple sandwiches and cakes are served with hot tea, coffee or chocolate; though tea is preferable, because less rich and held by most women in high esteem. In hot weather, however, iced coffee, tea, or punch is usually more acceptable. No service or assistance is necessary except to bring in the required articles; the hostess or a friend makes the tea and the guests help each other and themselves. For the more pretentious afternoon tea, refreshments are served in the dining room, from a table made beautiful with flowers, lights and tempting viands. At one end of the table is usually a tea-service and at the other a service for chocolate; each is pre- sided over by a friend of the hostess. The refreshments include sandwiches, fancy cakes, olives, bonbons, etc. These are passed to the standing guests by waitresses or young girls, also friends of the hostess. Napkins are a convenience, but not a necessity; sandwiches and cakes are usually placed on the saucer or a plate under it. In summer weather, frappe, glace, sherbet, or any suitable frozen dessert is sometimes served in addition to the other delicacies. 19 ENTERTAINING THE EVENING COLLATION Evening refreshments may be of infinite variety from the very simple to the most elaborate without regard to appetite or diges- tion. The menu may include hot bouillon, hot entrees, sandwiches, cold entrees, salads, coffee, salted nuts, ices and cakes. Coffee may be served in teacups with the supper or in after-dinner cups as a last course. The second way is necessarily customary where guests are not seated at tables. Only the daintiest of china, glass and silver should appear on the table, and all crowding should be avoided; dishes can be replenished from the pantry if necessary. The table may be simply or elaborately decorated, according to the kind of enter- tainment, the season, and inclination of the host. Candle light, because of its soft radiance, is preferred to any other; and the candlesticks themselves add beauty of the appearance of the table. 20 s o I = w * 9 B a) in S- 1 1 APPETIZERS And through the hall there walked to and fro, A jolly yeoman, master of the same, whose name was Appetite. Spenser' 's Faerie Queene. 22 APPETIZERS A APPETIZERS, which are served at the beginning of a meal, are L\- invitations'to the feast, as it were, because their piquant flavors or high seasonings stimulate digestion to wait on appetite. Native oysters and clams on the half-shell, or imported caviar (the salted roe of sturgeon), or anchovies (tiny fish) served as canapes, constitute this course at formal dinners; but for other meals the fruit cocktail forms a pleasing introduction, especially at luncheons. This dainty appetizer, served in its appropriate glass, set on a linen or paper doily on a plate, is not only very palatable, but may form part of the table decorative scheme. OYSTER COCKTAIL No. 1 12 oysters 1 saltspoon salt 1 teaspoon grated horseradish Dash of red pepper 1 teaspoon tomato catsup 1 teaspoon tabasco 2 tablespoons lemon juice Put three oysters in each glass, Mix the horseradish and sea- sonings and pour the sauce over the oysters. OYSTER COCKTAIL No. 2 12 oysters 1 tablespoon tomato catsup 1 tablespoon lemon juice l /z saltspoon paprika 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 saltspoon salt 5 drops tabasco Put three oysters in each glass- Make a sauce of the other in- gredients and pour over the oysters, LOBSTER COCKTAIL Cut the lobster into small pieces; mix well with tomato catsup, lemon juice and salt. Serve in cocktail glasses. 23 *-* APPETIZERS K ***** for Family of Four CLAM COCKTAIL Follow either of the recipes for oyster cocktails, using little neck clams GRAPE-FRUIT COCKTAIL Cut the grape-fruit into halves, crosswise, and scoop out the pulp, rejecting the white inner skin as well as the seeds. Clean the shells cut the edges with a sharp knife into scallops and throw them into cold water. Set the pulp on the ice. At serving time put a tea- spoon ol cracked ice in the bottom of each shell; fill with the pulp, mixed thoroughly with powdered sugar and white grapes, if de- sired; and place a maraschino cherry or bit of bright-colored jelly in the center of each. Lay on paper doilies or surround with bits of asparagus fern, MIXED FRUIT COCKTAILS Cut into small pieces as many different kinds of fruit as you have in the house; sweeten to taste and set on the ice to chill. At serv- ing time fill the cocktail glasses and place a maraschino cherry 01 ripe strawberry on the top of each. Fresh or canned pineapple is one of the most refreshing fruits for cocktails t RASPBERRY COCKTAIL Mash a pint of ripe, red currants; strain them through cheese- cloth; pour the juice over a pint of red raspberries and set on the ice to chill. At serving time sweeten to taste and pour into the glasses, putting a teaspoon of powdered sugar on the top of each. STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL Slice five or six large strawberries into each glass and squeeze over them the juice of an orange* At serving time add a heaping teaspoon of powdered sugar and a tablespoon of shaved ice. PINEAPPLE AND BANANA COCKTAIL Take equal parts of banana and fresh or canned pineapple; cut into small cubes and cover with lemon or pineapple juice. Serve in glasses or orange shells placed on autumn leaves or sprays o* green fern. 24 Planned for a A "DTDT7TT7T7P ^ Family of Four AtTlL 1 1Z/LK.C> PEACH COCKTAIL Fill the glasses with sliced peaches; cover with orange or lemon juice; sweeten to taste ; add a little shaved ice and serve. Apricot and cherry cocktails may be made in the same way. AMBROSIA Fill the glasses with alternate layers of sliced orange and coeoa~ nut; cover with powdered sugar and place a maraschino cherry on the top of each. CAVIAR CANAPES 6 squares toast 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 6 teaspoons Russian caviar 1 teaspoon chopped onion 1 hard-boiled egg Cut the bread about one-quarter of an inch thick and two inches square (or round) and after it is toasted spread over each slice a teaspoon of ice-cold caviar Mix the other ingredients; spread the mixture over the caviar and serve v/ith quarters of lemon^ ANCHOVY CANAPES Cut the bread as for caviar canapes and spread with anchovy paste. Chop separately the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs and cover the canapes, dividing them into quarters, with anchovies split in two lengthwise, and using yolks and whites in alternate quarters. CHEESE CANAPES 1 cup grated cheese Dash of red peppei 1 teaspoon salt 6 slices buttered bread Cut the bread into circles, diamonds or squares, butter them lightly and brown by placing in the oven or frying in deep fat. Cover each with a thick layer of the grated cheese to which the seasoning has been added. Bake in the oven until the cheese is thoroughly melted and serve at once. HAM CANAPES */2 cup minced ham 1 teaspoon chopped parsiev 2 tablespoons butter 6 slices buttered bread Mix the ham, butter and parsley to a smooth paste; prepare the bread as for cheese canapes ; spread with the mixture and serve. 25 fc-x. APP17TT7FR ^ Planned for a ArMrJ/ 1 l^r/iS. O Family of Four ANGELS ON HORSEBACK (Anges a Cheval) Oysters Lemon Sliced bacon Cayenne pepper Fried bread or toast On each oyster pour a few drops of lemon, add a grain of cayenne pepper. Roll the oyster in a slice of bacon, and fasten with a toothpick. Fry until the bacon is cooked. Place each on a square of fried bread. Garnish with lemon and parsley. Serve hot with a dash of tomato catsup. This dish may be served either at the beginning of a dinner, or as a savory, or for a breakfast or luncheon course. It is essentially for a winter menu. 26 SOUPS Too many cooks spoil the broth because they put no stock in it. Fables of a Rolling-Pin. 28 SOUPS THIN clear soups, such as consomme and bouillon, which are used as a dinner course, are valuable advance agents of the meal, preparing by their warmth and stimulation for the heavier courses to follow. Soups containing (bits of meat and vegetables, and cream soups, are far more nutritious than clear soups, and may be made the basis of a luncheon or supper. The wise housekeeper is able to serve soup at a moment's notice by having soup stock always on hand. MEAT STOCK Instruct the butcher to deliver all bones and trimmings removed from roasts; and save all meats and gravies left over from previous meals. By so doing soup may be at once economical and good. To every pound of meat and bone use one quart of cold water. Cut the meat into pieces and ask the butcher to crush the large bones, so that the gelatine and fat may be fully extracted. Put all in a covered kettle on the back of the stove. When the water be- comes red bring the kettle forward and let it heat slowly. Keep the water below the boiling point for three or four hours. If more water is needed, add boiling water. It is not necessary to remove the scum that rises. Stock should be prepared at least one day before it is to be used, so that the fat on the top may harden and be removed. Do not remove the fat until it is necessary, however, as it aids in keeping the stock sweet. VEGETABLE STOCK 1 carrot 1 tablespoon sugar 1 onion 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 Btalk celery 2 quarts cold water 2 turnips 2 bay leaves 2 tomatoes Salt and pepper Chop the carrot, onion, celery, turnips and tomatoes very fine. Put the sugar in a kettle over the fire, and when it is brown add 29 Planned for a Family of Four the olive oil and the vegetables. Add the water and season to taste. Let it simmer for one or two hours; strain and stand aside to cool. CREAM STOCK 1 pint milk 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour l / 2 teaspoon salt Red or black pepper Melt the butter over the fire and add the flour, being careful not to let it brown. Add the milk gradually, stirring constantly to prevent lumps; then add the seasoning. This cream sauce is used instead of stock as the foundation for many soups. CONSOMME 2 pounds lean beaf 1 stalk celery 1 small knuckle veal 1 small carrot 2 tablespoons butter 1 bay leaf 1 small onion 2 quarts cold water The under part of the round of beef is the best for this soap, though any lean portions will do. Cut the beef and veal into small pieces and brown them in the butter over a hot fire. Add the cold water, onion, celery, carrot and bay leaf; simmer slowlv for five or six hours in a covered kettle. Take from the fire; cool; remove the fat; strain; reheat and serve. BEEF BOUILLON 6 pounds beef and bone 2 quarts water Pepper and salt Cut and break the beef and bone, and put it in the water, letting it simmer for five or six hours. Then cool and strain through a sieve, removing all fatty matter Reheat, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt. CHICKEN BROTH 1 chicken l /2 cup rice 1 quart cold water 1 cup water Salt and pepper Cut the chicken into small pieces and place it in a deep earthen dish; add the quart of water; cover it and set over a kettle of Wanned for ft Family of Four boiling water, letting it steam until the meat of the chicken has become very tender. Strain off the broth and let it stand over night. In the morning remove the fat and return the liquid to the original earthen dish. Steam the rice in the cup of water until it is soft; add it to the broth and steam the whole from one to two hours longer, CLAM BOUILLON 1 dozen clams In shells I pint milk 2 cups water V 2 tablespoon butter Salt and red pepper Scrub the clams and put them in a covered vessel over the fire in the water. Heat the milk separately. Boil the clams until the shells open; fill bouillon cups half full of broth; then pour in the milk, to which the butter and seasoning have been added. OYSTER BOUILLON 25 oysters 1 pint milk 1 cup water l /z tablespoon butter Salt and red pepper Wash the oysters; chop them fine; cover with water or oyster juice and cook in a double boiler for one hour, closely covered; strain through a sieve; add the milk, separately heated, and the butter and seasoning. Serve in bouillon cups, OYSTER SOUP No. 1 25 oysters and juice Salt and pepper 1 pint milk 1 hard boiled egg 1 ounce butter 1 soda cracker rolled Vi cup chopped celery Boil the milk and set it aside. Bring the oyster juice to a boil and remove the scum. Put the oysters over the fire with the juice and the butter; let them simmer until the edges begin to curl; add the boiled milk; bring all to a boil and add the seasoning salt and pepper to taste. Mix the cracker and celery with the egg, finely chopped; put these into a tureen and pour the soup over them. 31 L-L Planned for a Family ot Four OYSTER SOUP No. 2 25 oysters and juice i pint cream stock Drain the oysters through a colander; strain the juice through a fine sieve; bring to a boil; skim; and when clear add the oysters, washing them first to remove bits of shell. Let them cook slowly until the edges begin to curl; add the cream stock and serve* CLAM SOUP 25 small clams l / 2 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 pint milk 1 rolled cracker Pinch of mace 2 tablespoons butter 1 hard-boiled egg l / 2 teaspoon flour Wash the clam shells very clean; place them in a pan in the oven for about five minutes, or until the shells open; then remove them from the shells, saving all the juice. Unless the clams are small chop them very fine. Heat the milk; add the juice, the mace, parsley, egg, rolled cracker, and the butter mixed with the flour. Last of all add the clams; bring to a boil and serve. CHILE BISQUE 4 sweet chile peppers 1 egg */2 cup boiled rice % cup cream Tabasco and salt 1 pint hot milk Remove the seeds and veins from the peppers; boil and press the pulp through a colander. To this add a cup of boiled rice, mashed smooth. Season highly with tabasco and salt. Beat the egg; add the cream, then the hot milk, and pour all into the bisque. CREAM OF POTATO 2 medium-sized potatoes 1 bay leaf l /4 tablespoon chopped onion 1 sprig parsiey 1 pint cream stock Pare the potatoes and let them soak in cold water for half an hour; then put them in boiling water with the bay leaf and onion, and when soft drain off the water and mash, saving the water and returning the mashed potatoes to it. Strain through a sieve and add the cream stock slowly. Just before serving add the parsley, finely chopped. 32 L-L Planned for a f Four CREAM OF TOMATO 1 pint stewed or canned tomatoes 1 tablespoon sugar 1 pint cream stock Pinch of baking soda Heat the tomatoes; strain and add sugar and a pinch of baking soda. At the moment of serving stir in the boiling cream sauce, very slowly to prevent curdling. A spoonful of whipped cream may be served on the top of each plate if desired. CREAM OF PEA 1 cup cooked or canned peas 1 sprig mint 1 cup water l /2 bay leaf 1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon butter 1 pint cream stock Brown the onion in the butter; add it to the peas, mint, bay leaf, sugar and water and let all simmer slowly for one half hour. Strain through a fine sieve; add the cream sauce and serve. PEA-POD SOUP 2 quarts pea pods 1 cup shredded lettuce 1 quart water 1 pint cream stock Put the^pea pods in the water over the fire, adding the lettuce it you have it, although this is not necessary. Boil down to one pint; strain and add to the cream sauce. Left-over cooked peas, pressed through a colander to remove the skins, may be added if desired, CREAM OF CELERY 1 stalk celery V 2 tablespoon chopped onion 1 pint boiling water V 2 bay leaf l /2 teaspoon salt 3 cups cream stock Wash and scrape the celery; cut it into half-inch pieces and cook with the water, salt, onion and bay leaf until thoroughly tender. Mash in the water in which it has boiled; add the cream sauce and serve. CREAM OF ASPARAGUS Proceed as with cream of celery soup, substituting one half bundle of fresh asparagus or an equal amount of canned for the 33 M. QOTTDQ Planned Tor a OU UJrO Family of Four stalk of celery. Or, the tips of a bundle of asparagus may be cut oif for table use and the remainder used for soup. In either case the asparagus will be better if mashed through a colander, thus removing the woody portions. CREAM OF CORN No. 1 3 ears corn 1 bay leaf Water to cover the corn 1 pint cream stock Run a sharp knife down through the center of each row of ker- nels, and with the back of a knife press out the pulp, leaving the husk on the cob. Break the cobs and put them on to boil in suf- ficient cold water to cover them. Boil thirty minutes and strain the liquor. Return the liquor to the fire, and when boiling add the corn pulp and bay leaf. Cook fifteen minutes; add the creani sauce and serve. CREAM OF CORN No. 2 1 pint canned corn 1 bay leaf ^ . 1/2 tablespoon chopped onion 1 pint cream stock Cook the corn, onion and bay leaf for fifteen minutes; add the cream sauce and serve CREAM OF SPINACH 1 quart spinach l /2 table* M ooon chopped onidi, 1 pint creani stock Wash the spinach thoroughly; throw it into a dry kettle and place over the fire, stirring until the spinach is wilted. Dram the spinach, saving the water; chop it very fine; return it to the water; add the onion and cook until thoroughly done, adding a little more water if necessary. Mash in the same water; strain and add the juice to the hot cream sauce. CREAM OF LETTUCE Follow the recipe for cream of spinach, substituting one head of lettuce for the quart of spinach, 34 H-L Planned lor a Family of Four MOCK TURTLE SOUP 1 calf's head 1 lemon 3 quarts water 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 6 potatoes 2 tablespoons butter 2 hard-boiled eggs l /2 tablespoon sweet marjoram Salt and pepper Clean the calf's head thoroughly and boil it in the water until tender; then pick the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces. Add the potatoes cut into small dice, the eggs, chopped, the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and butter: season with salt, pepper and sweet marjoram; use drop dumplings if desired. GUMBO SOUP 1 pound beef 1 small carrot 1 quart okras 1 large tomato 1 small onion Pinch of cloves 1 sprig parsley Salt and pepper 2 quarts cold water Cut the beef into small pieces; wash the okras and cut them in slices. Slice the onion; chop the parsley; grate the carrot; and cut the tomato into small pieces. Add the water and seasoning and bring all to a boil. Set aside to cool; skim off the hardened fat; return to the fire and let simmer slowly for four hours, closely covered. BEEF SOUP 2 pounds shin of beef 1 teaspoon sweet marjoram 4 tablespoons butter 2 whole allspices 2 onions 2 whole cloves 2 carrots Pinch of mace 1 stalk celery Salt and pepper 2 bay leaves 2 quarts cold water 1 tablespoon cornstarch Cut the beef into small pieces; put it in a pan with the butter and brown over a hot fire. Take out the meat and put it in a large kettle with the onions, carrots and celery all chopped fine; add the seasoning and water; bring to a boil and skim well. Set aside to simmer, closely covered, six or eight hours; then strain and set away. Next day remove all the fat from the top and boil half an hour. Thicken with a tablespoon of cornstarch mixed with a little cold water; boil three minutes and serve. 35 L-L Planned for a Family of Four MUTTON SOUP 2 pounds neck of mutton 1 onion 2 quarts cold water 1 tomato 1 turnip 1 tablespoon pearl barley Salt and pepper Put the mutton in a kettle with the water, vegetables sliced, barley and seasoning. Bring to a boil; skim off the fat and scum; place at the back of the stove to simmer slowly for three hours. Keep the vessel closely covered. TURKEY-BONE SOUP Turkey bones 2 carrots Water to cover bones 1 tablespoon barley 1 onion 1 tablespoon rice 1 stalk celery 1 sprig parsley 3 potatoes Pepper and salt Put the turkey bones in a kettle and cover them with water; boil slowly for three hours; add the other ingredients, chopping the onCons, parsley and celery and cutting the potatoes and carrots into small dice. Boil until the vegetables are tender' season to taste and serve. CHEESE SOUP 3 cups milk 1 cup grated cheese 1 tablespoon flour Salt and paprika Heat the milk in a double boiler, reserving a little to mix with the flour; add this and cook thoroughly. When reauy to servo add the cheese and seasoning. OX-TAIL SOUP 1 ox-tail 1 stalk celery l /2 tablespoon drippings 1 bunch parsley 2 quarts cold water 2 cloves I onion 2 peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt Cut ox-tail into pieces, separating at the joints. Brown the onion in the drippings of salt pork. Put the meat in a kettle with the water; when it reaches the boiling point add the spices, the onion and the celery and parsley finely chopped. Let simmer for four hours; strain and cool and remove the grease. Reheat; add the salt and serve, 36 L-L Planned for a Family of Four PEPPER POT 3 pounds tripe 1 chopped onion 2 quarts water l /z tablespoon sweet marjoram Small knuckle of veal J /2 bunch parsley and thyme Water to cover veal Salt and pepper 2 potatoes Dumplings Boil the tripe for six hours the day previous to using and save the liquor. Boil the knuckle of veal in a separate vessel in suf- ficient water to cover it; when the meat separates from the bones' strain and add the liquor to the tripe liquor with the seasoning, potatoes and onion. Cut the tripe into pieces half an inch square^ and the potatoes likewise. Boil all together for fifteen or twenty minutes, adding the dumplings ten minutes before serving time. MULLAGATAWNY SOUP 1 tablespoon beef drippings 2 cloves 1 large onion 2 peppercorns 2 quarts stock l / 2 teaspoon curry powder 2 tablespoons chopped carrot l /2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons chopped celery 2 tablespoons boiled rice l /2 lemon */f cup cooked chicken or veal Slice the onion and fry it brown in the drippings; put it into the stock, together with the carrot, celery, lemon juice, cloves and peppercorns. Mix the curry powder and salt to a smooth paste with a little water, and add that also. Simmer one hour, strain and cool; remove the fat; add the chicken and rice; reheat and serve. CHICKEN GUMBO 1 tablespoon butter 3 small tomatoes 1 tablespoon chopped onion Less desirable pieces chicken 1 quart sliced okra Flour 2 quarts hot water Salt and pepper Brown the onion in the butter; add the okra and fry until the okra will rope from a spoon. Stir constantly. Pour all into the hot water and boil down to a quart. Scald the tomatoes; peel them; cut into small pieces and add to the soup. Next sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour the wings, back, neck and other undesirable portions of a chicken and fry them a light brown. Lift from the frying pan with a fork and add to the soup one half hour before serving. 37 M. Q/"VlT|Jp Planned for a Family of Four JULIENNE SOUP 1 quart stock 1 small onion i small carrot 1 small tomato 1 small turnip 1 quart boiling water 1 small potato 1 tablespoon barley Salt and pepper Cut the vegetables into small pieces, add the water, barley and reasoning and let all simmer slowly until the vegetables are tender. Add the stock; bring to a boil and serve. ECONOMICAL SOUP 1 quart stock 2 cloves 1 onion 2 peppercorns 1 small carrot 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon salt 1 sprig parsley Water to cover vegetables Pinch of mace Leaves and root of celery stalk Chop the vegetables and cook them together with the herbs and seasoning in water sufficient to cover them. When done* add the stock and bring to a boil. BARLEY SOUP 1 quart stock 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons barley 1 quart water l /2 saltspoon pepper Wash the barley and soak it in a quart of water; cook in the same water until tender; drain and add with the seasoning to the boiling stock. Kice, tapioca or sago may be substituted for the barley. VERMICELLI SOUP l /2 cup vermicelli 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 quart stock l /2 teaspoon salt l /2 saltspoon pepper Cook the vermicelli about ten minutes in boiling salted water; dram and add to the boiling stock, together with the seasoning. Macaroni may be substituted for the vermicelli if desired; but it will have to cook longer about half an hour. 38 L-L Planned for a QfYTTTX Family of Four OUUJr NOODLE SOUP 1 quart stock Vz teaspoon salt Noodles J /2 saltspoon peppet Bring the stock to a boil; add the noodles and seasoning; let both boil together for about five minutes, and serve. The noodles may be made according to the following directions: 1 egg 1/2 teaspoon salt Sufficient flour to make stiff dough Beat the egg; add the salt; then the flour, sufficient to make a very stiff dough. Knead; toss on a slightly floured board, and roll as thin as possible. Cover with a towel and set aside until the surface is dry; then roll like a jelly roll and cut off thin slices. Dry, and when needed cook twenty minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and add to soup. BLACK-BEAN SOUP 1 pint pink kidney beans 1 Bermuda onion, chopped 1 quart liquid 1 button garlic Yi cup butter, oil or beef fat 1 tomato, sliced Soak the beans over night and boil them until tender; mash with potato masher and return to the water in which they were cooked, of which there should be about a quart. Run this puree through a sieve to free it from hulls. Fry the onion and garlic in the fat until brown; adding the tomato. When well cooked strain through a colander; add to the puree; let simmer for ten minutes, and serve. TOMATO SOUP 1 pint stewed or canned tomatoes 1 bay leaf 1 pint water or stock 1 tablespoon butter 1 small onion 1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper Put the tomatoes over the fire with the water, onion and bay leaf; cook slowly for one half hour; strain through a fine sieve; wash the saucepan; return the tomatoes to it and put again over the fire. Add the butter and flour well rubbed together; stir until smooth; season to taste and serve with Croutons. 39 t-t. SOUPS PIanncd for a Family of Four VEGETABLE SOUP No. 1 l Vs ounces butte- 1 cup beans or split peas 1 small onion 2 quarts water l /2 carrot Pinch of mace 1/2 stalk celery 1 dozen allspice Sait and pepper Put the butter in a large kettle over a slow fire. While it is inciting slice the onion, cut the carrot and celery into small pieces, and put them in the butter, covering them closely until they are slightly browned. Have ready the beans or peas which have been soaked in cold water all night, and bring them to a boil in a quart of water. When the vegetables are browned pour the boiling peas over them; add another quart of water; bring all to a boil ; skim well and add the seasoning. Cover the kettle and let it simmer for three hours. Then strain the vegetables and press them through a colander. Return all to the kettle; bring to a boil and serve. VEGETABLE SOUP No. 2 l /2 cup chopped enion 1 tablespoon chopped pepper 1 tablespoon butter or drippings l l /% teaspoons salt 1V 2 quarts water 1 saltspoon pepper 2 cups shredded cabbage 1 tomato l /2 cup chopped carrot 1 cup sliced potato 1 leek 1 tablespoon chopped celery Brown the oiiiovi slightly in the butter or drippings. Have the water boiling hard and add all the vegetables except the potato and tomato. Boil rapidly for ten minutes; then gently for one hour. Add the other ingredients and cook one hour longer. Have the cover partially off the kettle during the entire time. PIMIENTO BISQUE Vz cup rice */2 teaspoon salt 3 cups chicken stock % teaspoon tabasco sauce 3 pimientoes Yolk of 1 egg 3 4 cup cream Wash the rice; cook with the stock until tender; press through a sieve; add the pimientoes, likewise pressed through a sieve, and the seasonings. Bring to a boil; add the egg, beaten with the cream, and serve in bouillon cups with Imperial Sticks 40 L-L Planned for a Family of Four CLAM CHOWDER l /2 peck of clams in shell 1 quart hot milk 3 potatoes 6 rolled crackers l /2 pound bacon 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped onion V& teaspoon salt l / 2 saltspoon pepper Wash the clams and place them over the fire in a large covered kettle, with sufficient water to keep the under ones from burning. When the shells at the top have opened, remove all the clams, ana when cool enough to handle take them from the shells. Remove the skins and cut into small pieces, leaving the soft part whole. Let the liquor settle; then pour off the top, being careful not to take any of the sediment. Cut the potatoes into small dice and parboil them, pouring off the water afterward. Cut the bacon in very thin slices and fry. Remove the bacon and fry the onion in the bacon fat and strain. Then boil bacon, onions and potatoes together until the potatoes are tender Use just enough boiling water to cover them, and drain when done. Reheat the clams and their liquor; add the hot milk, seasoning, rolled crackers, bacom, onion and potatoes; let all simmer together for five minutes; add the parsley and serve. CORN CHOWDER 1 ounce salt pork 1 cup boiling water 2 potatoes 1 pint can corn 1 small onion 1 pint hot milk Salt and pepper Pare and slice the potatoes and onion. Cut the pork into small dice and put over the fire, cooking until crisp and brown ; then add the potatoes, onion and boiling water. Boil for one half hour; add the hot milk, corn and seasoning; bring all to a boil and serve. TO SERVE WITH SOUP Croutons Cut bread into half-inch slices; remove the crusts and cut into cubes; put in shallow pans and brown in the oven. Buttering the bread will improve the flavor and insure quick browning. 41 I^L Planned for a Family of Four Pulled Bread Place a loaf of baker's bread in a baking pan and cover it witL a tin plate. Let it remain in a moderate oven about twenty minutes, or until heated through; then with a fork remove tne crust and tear the soft part into large ragged pieces. Spread these pieces in a pan and place them in a hot oven until crisp and brown. This is the bread frequently recommended for dyspeptics, but is delicious served in the place of crackers. Imperial Sticks Cut stale bread into one-third-inch slices and remove the crusts. Spread both sides thinly with butter; cut into narrow strips and brown in a quick oven. Serve with soup in place of croutons or crackers. 42 FISH There be an good fish in the sea as ever yet were caught. Proverb. 14 FISH impression that fish, because they are rich in phosphorus, *- are particularly good food for brain workers, is not neces- sarily true. The fact that they are easily digested, especially the white-fleshed kinds, may partially account for this reputation. Coming into their prime, as they do, at the end of winter when the system is meat-weary, and bringing with them the refreshing flavor of the sea, fish afford a pleasant and welcome change of diet. Fresh fish have firm flesh, bright eyes and gills, and do not have an offensive odor. In stale fish there is danger of ptomaine poison- ing. This danger is greatest in fish which have been preserved frozen, and have been kept for some time after thawing. If fish have not been cleaned when they come from the market, clean them immediately. Wash, wipe, and sprinkle with salt. If placed in the refrigerator, slip the plate into a paper bag to keep the odor from other food; or set the plate on a pan of ice and keep it in the cellar. Frozen fish should be soaked in cold water until thawed, and then removed. Soak salt fish in fresh water, skin side up, to draw out the salt. White-fleshed fish, such as shad, blue-fish, mackerel, and salmon, have fat distributed more or less throughout the body, and are seldom fried. They are usually baked, broiled cr planked. Of the Great Lakes fish, white-fish are the finest. They are cooked in various ways, but are often planked. Of other fresh water fish, trout, black bass, and catfish are the best known. Codfish, haddock, and halibut may be found in market the year around, but are not really good in June, July, August and Septem- ber. Flounders are at their best in May. Shad are best in April and May, and are in season only in the spring and early summer. Blue-fish come in summer and early autumn. 45 I>-L FISH Planned lot a JX1 Family of Four Of bivalves (shell-fish), oysters and scallops are winter fish; clams are year around, being much used in summer when oysters are out of season. Of crustaceans (crust-fish), lobsters are to be found in market throughout the year, but are best from June to September. Crabs also are best in summer. Soft-shell crabs are so called because they have shed their hard shells, and have been caught before their new shells harden, CLEANING FISH To remove the scales hold the fish by the tail and scrape firmly toward the head with a small sharp knife, held with the blade slanting toward the tail. Scrape slowly so that the scales will not fly, and rinse the knife frequently in cold water. If the fish is to be served whole, leave the head and tail on and trim the fins; otherwise remove them. To open small fish make an incision under the gills and squeeze out the contents by pressing upward from the middle with the thumb and finger. To open large fish split them from the gills half way down the body toward the tail; remove the entrails and scrape and clean, opening far enough to remove all the blood from the backbone, and wiping the inside thoroughly with a cloth wrung out of cold, salted water. To skin a fish remove the fins along the back and cut off a narrow strip of the skin the entire length of the back. Then slip the knife under the skin that lies over the bony part of the gills and work slowly toward the tail. Do the same with the other side. To bone a fish clean it first and remove the head. Then, begin- ning at the tail, run a sharp knife under the flesh close to the bone, scraping the flesh away clean from the bone. Work up one side toward the head; then repeat the same process on the other side of the bone. Lift the bone carefully and pull out any small bones that may be left in the flesh BOILED FISH Wipe the fish carefully and if fresh, sprinkle thoroughly with salt. Wrap it in a piece of cheesecloth to hold the fish together and to prevent the scum from clinging to the fish, and place it in a kettle of boiling water, adding a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of vinegar to every two quarts of water, also a slice of onion, a bay 40 L-L Planned tor Family of Four leaf and a sprig of parsley Cook slowly, following the time table in the front of the book ; lift and drain carefully; open the cloth and turn the fish upon the serving platter, garnishing with parsley and slices of lemon r The fish is done when the flesh is firm and separates easily from the bone* As fish used for boiling has Jittle fat and is cooked in none, it needs a rich sauce to make it palatable. Drawn butter^ egg, Hollandaise and Bechamel sauces are used* BAKED USB Wash and dry the fish, rubbing inside and out with salt; stuff with forcemeat or bread stuffing and sew Cut gashes two inches apart on both sides, alternating, and into each slip a narrow strip of salt fat pork. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and place in a hot oven without water. As soon as it begins to brown add hot water and butter and baste every ten minutes* Bake until done, allow- ing an hour or more for a large fish, twenty or thirty minutes for a email one. Remove to a hot platter; draw out the strings; wipe off all water or fat and remove pork; garnish with slices of lemon well covered with chopped parsley and serve with Hollandaise sauce, BROILED FISH For broiling large fish should be split down the back and head and tail removed; salmon and halibut should be cut into one-inch slices, and smelts and other small fish left whole. Wipe the fish as dry as possible; sprinkle with salt and pepper and if the fish is dry and white brush the flesh side well with olive oil or butter. Put in a well-greased broiler, placing the thickest parts of the fish toward the middle or back of the broiler, Hold over a hot fire until the flesh side is nicely browned; then cook the skin side just long enough to make the skin crisp. Small fish require from ten to fifteen minutes, large fish from fifteen to twenty-five. To remove from the broiler loosen one side first, then the other, and lift care- fully with a cake turner. Place on a platter; spread with butter and stand in the oven for a few minutes. Garnish with lemon and serve with Maitre d'Hdtel sauce. FRIED FISH Wash and dry the fish; season with salt and pepper; dip in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs again* FISTT Planned for a ~ Family of Four Place the fish in a frying basket and fry in hot fat, preferably olive oil. Be sure that the fat is hot; test it by lowering a small piece of bread; if it browns in thirty seconds the fat is sufficiently hot. Put only a few pieces of fish in the basket at a time and remove them as soon as they are brown. Garnish with parsley and serve with Tartare sauce. SHAD ROE Shad roe may be baked, broiled or fried. To broil, wipe dry; sprinkle with pepper and salt and cook five minutes on each side. Butter well and stand in the oven for a few minutes; then serve garnished with parsley and lemon. To fry, proceed as with fish, but cook the roe for ten minutes first in boiling water. BAKED SHAD Clean and split a three-pound shad, placing it skin side down in a baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; spread with butter and thin slices of bacon and bake twenty-five or thirty minutes in a hot oven. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. PLANKED SHAD Clean and split a three-pound shad. Heat the plank very hot; lay the fish upon it, skin side down. Brush the flesh carefully over with olive oil or butter; then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for thirty minutes in a hot oven. It may be cooked in a gas range, having the flame over the fish. When cooked pour over the fish two tablespoons of melted butter and the juice of one lemon. Garnish with parsley, quarters of lemon, and mashed potatoes. Shape the potatoes by means of a forcing bag and star tube; brush over with beaten yolk of egg; then brown in the oven. Set the plank on a serving dish and serve. PLANKED HALIBUT Trim the ends of a solid piece of halibut, weighing about four pounds and cut the entire width of the fish. Peel and slice three onions into a baking pan, and on these lay the halibut. Squeeze the juice of a small lemon over it; put some pieces of butter on the top; pour in a cup of white stock, to which has been added a table- spoon of vinegar. Bake for three-quarters of an hour; baste several times with the liquid in the pan. Add a little salt. 48 L-L SOLE COD FLOUNDER Planned lor 6 TTTCTT Family of Four J J.OX1 When ready lift out the fish on to a hot plank. Put some hot mashed potatoes through a forcing bag round the fish, brush with beaten egg, and return to a hot oven to brown the potatoes. Fill up the space between the fish and potatoes with hot vegetables. Decorate with pieces of cooked cucumber, which have the centers removed and filled with cooked and seasoned peas. BAKED FILLETS OF HALIBUT Cut the halibut into small fillets; season and place in a shallow pan, covered with buttered paper. Bake in a hot oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve with Hollan- daise sauce a FRIED SMELTS Clean the smelts, leaving on the heads and tails. Sprinkle weli with salt, pepper and flour; dip in egg, then in fine bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon and serve with Tartare sauce. SALT-FISH DINNER f 1 pound codfish 2 tablespoons fat V 2 pound salt pork 2 tablespoons flour 2 cups skim milk Speck of salt Dash of red pepper Cut the codfish in strips; soak in lukewarm water and cook below the boiling point until tender. Cut the pork into one-fourth inch slices; cut several gashes in each piece; fry slowly until golden brown and remove, pouring off the fat. Out of two table- spoons of the fat, the flour, seasoning and milk make a cream sauce. Put the codfish on a platter with pieces of pork around it; and serve with boiled potaoes and the cream sauce, CODFISH Let the fish soak in cold water for four or five hours to draw out the salt; wash the fish very clean; put it in a kettle with cold water; bring to a boil; then stand aside where it will keep just below boiling temperature. When perfectly tender, drain; put on a platter and cover with cream sauce, 49 L-L rlannsd for a Family of Four CODFISH BALLS 1 cup codfish 1 tablespoon soft butter V/2 cups mashed potato Dash of pepper Yolk of 1 egg White of 1 egg Flour Wash the fish in cold water and pull in small pieces; mix with the potatoes. Beat the egg; stir to a paste with the butter; add pepper, then the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Turn in the fish and potato; mix well with a fork; flour the hands and roll thr mixture into round balls. Flatten to one-half inch thickness and fry in hot fat. SALMON SURPRISE can salmon 1 cup cream sauce 1 cup mashed potatoes Remove the salmon from the can; place it in a colander and wash under running water. Break into small pieces; mix thoroughly with hot cream sauce and pour into a baking dish. Cover with mashed potatoes and bake until the potatoes are browned. CREAMED SALMON 1 can salmon 1 cup cream sauce Remove the salmon from the can; place it in a colander and wash under running water or scald with boiling water. Break into suiaU pieces; stir into the hot cream sauce; bring all to a boil and serve in patty cups or on toasted bread or crackers. FRIED SCALLOPS Clean the scallops; cook until they begin to shrivel; drain and dry between towels. Roll in fine bread crumbs, salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll again in crumbs and lower for a minute or two into very hot fat. Drain on paper and serve. CLAMS Clams may be stewed, panned or cooked in other ways like oysters. They are also good made into fritters. 50 *-* Planned tor a Family of Four CLAM FRITTERS 3 eggs 1 cup flour Vfe cup milk 25 clams Beat the eggs; add the flour gradually with the milk, beating until perfectly smooth Chop the clams; drain off the juice; stir them into the batter; mix thoroughly and drop into boiling hot fat CREAMED CLAMS 2 dozen clams % cup clam juice 1 tablespoon butter Vfe cup rich cream 1 tablespoon flour Salt and paprika Chop the clams fine. Melt the butter and cook the flour in it; add the clams and juice; simmer for ten minutes and add the cream. Bring to a boil; season and serve with thin slices of but- tered toast. FRIED OYSTERS Select large oysters; drain them and dry between soft towels, Dip each oyster in beaten egg until it is thoroughly coated; then roll in cracker dust or fine bread crumbs well seasoned with salt and pepper. Lay the oysters in a wire basket, a few at a time, and lower them into boiling hot fat. Test the fat by lowering a piece of stale bread into it; if it browns in thirty seconds the fat is sufficiently hot; if it burns the fat is too hot. Fry the oysters a delicate brown; drain them over the fat; then lay on brown paper in the oven until serving time. Olive oil is best for frying, though suetine, cottolene, crisco, or a mixture of suet and lard brings good results. Butter alone or lard alone should never be used. OYSTER PIE 40 large oysters */2 tablespoon chopped onion 2 hard-boiled eggs % tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons flour Little grated nutmeg 4 tablespoons butter Put the oysters over the fire hi their own liquor; add the other ingredients, rubbing the butter to a paste with the flour first. Stir until the butter is thoroughly melted: then DOUT into a deep 51 L-L Planned for a FamUy of Four pudding dish, the sides of which are lined with half puff-paste. Have an inverted cup in the center of the dish to support the top crust; cover with paste; fasten the edges securely and make a few slashes to allow the steam to escape. Bake in a quick oven for about a half hour. When brown on the top, cover with paper to prevent the crust from burning. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Butter a baking dish and fill it with alternate layers of oysters and bread crumbs, making the bottom layer oysters and the top layer crumbs. Season each layer of crumbs thoroughly and dot with small pieces of butter. When the dish is full moisten with equal parts of oyster juice and milk. CREAMED OYSTERS 1 pint oysters 1 tablespoon butter milk Salt and pepper tablespoons flour Dash of celery salt 3 /4 cup l l / 2 ta Heat the oysters in their own liquor, removing the scum that rises. Melt the butter in a separate pan; stir in the flour; add the milk gradually, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Pour the oysters into the cream sauce thus made and just before serving add the seasoning. Serve in patty shells or on buttered toast. OYSTER STEW 1 pint oysters and juice Salt and red pepper 1 pint hot milk or cream 1 ounce butter Put the oysters over the fire in their own liquor; the moment they come to a boil, skim carefully and add the hot milk or cream. Skim again; remove from the fire and add the butter and seasoning. SHIRRED OYSTERS Place small squares of toast in a pan and on each as many oysters as it will hold, well seasoned with salt, pepper and bits of butter. Cover the pan and cook the oysters in the oven until they are plump and curled at the edges. Serve immediately. f>2 L-L HOW TO SPLIT AND DRESS LOBSTER Planned Tor a IMQT3 Family of Four -T AOn PANNED OYSTERS 25 oysters Juice of % iemon 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper Squares of toast Melt the butter over the fire; add the lemon juice, then the drained oysters. Cook until the edges begin to curl; season and serve on small squares of toast. BROILED OYSTERS Wash the oysters and dry them with a soft towel. Dip them in melted butter and lay them on a broiler which has been well greased with salt pork or butter. Broil on both sides for a few minutes; lay on buttered toast and season with salt, pepper and butter. Oysters cooked on both sides on a buttered gridiron have the flavor of broiled oysters, and are more easily prepared. TERRAPIN Drop the live terrapin in hot water and boil until the skin can be pulled from the legs. When cool, take off the shells; pull out the claws; open the body and remove carefully the sand bag and gall, being careful not to break them; also the entrails, lights, heart, head, tail and white muscles. The remainder of the terra- pin is to be used when cut into small pieces. STEWED TERRAPIN 1 terrapin Yolk of 1 egg l /4 pound butter Salt and cayenne 1V 2 tablespoons flour Pinch of mace l /4 cup cream 1 tablespoon currant jelly Rub the butter in the flour and add it to the terrapin; add the cream in which the egg has been beaten, salt, cayenne, mace and jelly. Simmer for ten minutes and serve. LOBSTER Select a live lobster of medium size but heavy in proportion to its size. If the tail springs back qukkly when straightened, the lobster is fresh. 5 53 L-L Planned for Family o Four To kill a lobster grasp it by the back and put its head under hot water; then its body, and quickly cover the kettle. The lobster will die immediately, but should remain in the water about twenty minutes, boiling all the time. The meat should not be eaten until cold and should never be kept more than eighteen hours after cooking. It should not be removed from the shell until it is to be used. Remove the meat from the shell, discarding the gills, stomach and intestines. Garnish with small clams and lettuce leaves. PLANKED LOBSTER To plank a lobster heat the plank very hot. Kill the lobster by splitting it into halves, lay it on the plank shell side down; put it under the gas for twenty minutes; baste with butter; dust with salt and pepper, and cook ten minutes longer. Garnish with small fried French potato balls and grated cucumber in tiny lettuce leaves. DEVILED CRABS 6 crabs % cup cream 1 hard-boiled egg Salt and cayenne 2 tablespoons butter % teaspoon sweet marjoram Grated nutmeg Cracker dust 1 raw egg Put the crabs into hot water; add salt and boil for thirty minutes. Or, buy crab meat already picked and ask the dealer for six shells. Cut the meat into small pieces; add the hard- boiled egg, cream, butter and seasoning and cook for a few minutes over a hot fire, thickening the mixture with cracker dust. Fill the shells; dip them in the raw egg, beaten; then in cracker crumbs; place in a hot oven or drop into boiling fat and fry until brown* FROGS Only the hind quarters of frogs are cooked. Wash and dry them; skin and dip them in milk; sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour and fry in boiling hot fat. Or put them in a saucepan with butter, a sprinkling of flour and pepper and salt. Shake over the fire for a moment; add a little water; simmer until tender and almost dry; then add a cup of cream and a large lump of butter rubbed together with a little flour. Bring to a boil and serve. 64 I^L MEATS Some hue meat and canna eat; And some wad eat that want it; But we hae meat, and we can eat; So let the Lord be thankit. ROBERT BURNS: Grace before Meat. 56 MEATS THE following are the words of a noted dietitian in the employ- ment of the United States Government: " The custom of serving meat at each meal should be discouraged. Deficiency of protein need not be feared when one good meat dish a day is served, especially if such food as eggs, milk, cheese, and beans are used instead. In localities where fish can be obtained fresh and cheap, it should be more frequently substituted for meat for the sake of variety as well as economy. Ingenious cooks have many ways of * extending the flavor' of meat; that is, of combin- ing a small quantity with other material to make a large dish, as in meat pies, stews and similar dishes." As to Digestibility. Animal protein is more easily digested than vegetable protein, such as found in beans and peas, for flesh foods are more like the human body, and do not have to undergo the same amount of chemical change as do vegetable foods; but the drainage of the body is taxed by flesh eating, and certainly too much meat is a mistake. When used, meat should form only one- fifth, or, at most, one-fourth of a well-balanced meal. This subject is further discussed in the chapter on " Balanced Rations, " page 417. As to Cost. Meat is the most expensive food used in most house- holds. There is no need for buying the most expensive cuts. " The best is the cheapest," does not apply to foods. The most economi- cal food is that which supplies the most nutriment for the least money. Prices are not regulated according to their nutritive value, but according to attractiveness and scarceness. The nutri- ment in an ounce of tenderloin is no more than that of an ounce of the round or shoulder. "Much more depends upon the art and skill of the cook than upon sums laid out in the market," said Count Rumford. 57 L-L 1. Neck 2. Chuck 8. Hibs 4. Shoulder clod & Fore shank 6. Brisket 7. Cross ribs 8 Plate 9 Navel 10. Loin 11. Flank 12. Hump IS, Round 14. Second cut rounc* I6i Hind shank DIAGRAM OF CUTS OF BEEF 58 Planned for a Family of Four The time required for digestion of beet' and mutton is about the same. Pork is the most difficult of meats to digest, and is better for the use of people who do manual labor than for those who exercise little. The flesh of young animals is tender, but is less nutritious than that of older ones. Beef and mutton are tfound in the markets the year round. Veal and lamb are in season in the spring. Pork should not be used in hot weather. The methods of cutting meats differ in different localities, but the diagrams in this chapter give the housekeeper an idea of the general divisions. As a rule, the more tender portions of unused muscles lie just below the back of the animal, but the tenderness decreases downward, toward the legs, and toward the head. Never wash fresh meat. Wipe it with a damp cloth, Roasting Meats are "roasted" before an open fire, and "baked" in a closed oven, although as a matter of convenience the oven method is now commonly used. The chief point to remember is that the meat should be quickly browned in order that the crust thus formed may retain the juices. The oven should therefore be hot when the meat is put in and the heat, if possible, gradually reduced. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, but do not wash it. Sprinkle with pepper and salt and just a little flour, and put in a pan with a small piece of fat or drippings. When the meat is seared, add a little water and baste every ten minutes. When one side is thoroughly browned, turn over and brown the other side. When done, remove the roast; pour off almost all of the fat and make a brown sauce according to the directions in the chapter on "Sauces." If the meat is very lean it is a good plan to lay thin slices of fat meat, bacon or pork over the top. Broiling The object of boiling is to coagulate as quickly as possible all the albumen on the surface of the meat, sealing up the pores so that none of the juices may escape. It is therefore a good plan to warm the gridiron before putting on the meat so that none of the heat may be conducted away. The broiling should be done ovet 59 L-L MEATS Planned for O.TXJVAJ.O ^ Family of Four a clear fire at least two inches away from the gridiron. Meat cooked by this method is more wholesome than meat cooked in any other way; ^ but if the fire is not hot, most of the juices will be lost. Season with salt, pepper and butter when the meat is done; do not season before cooking, as salt draws out the juices. Pan-broiling is less desirable than broiling over hot coals, though when properly done the meat has much the same flavor and appearance. Have the pan red hot and if the meat is very lean, rub the pan with fat; but do not leave any fat in the pan. Sear the meat quickly on one side, then on the other; then cook, turning several times. Season and serve. Boiling Boiling is one of the easiest methods of cooking meat, but it is not satisfactory unless the proper method is followed. In making soup the meat is put in cold water to draw out the juices; in boiling it should be put in hot water, so that the meat and not the water may retain the juices and flavoring. Some of them will necessarily escape, but the boiling water coagulates the albumen on the sur- face of the meat, forming a sort of coat. Salt meat should be soaked in cold water before boiling, but fresh meat should simply be wiped with a damp cloth. Have the kettle scrupulously clean; put in it enough water to cover the meat and when boiling drop in the meat. Boil hard for five minutes; then draw the kettle aside and let the meat cook slowly Cover closely and remove all scum that rises. Frying Frying is cooking in very hot fat, and the secret of success is to have the fat hot enough to harden the outer surface of the meat immediately and deep enough to cover the meat. As the fat can be saved and used many times, the use of a large quantity is not extravagant. Have a frying pan with a wire basket and arrange the pieces of meat or croquettes so that they will not touch each other. Plunge them in the fat, testing it first with a small piece of bread, which should brown in thirty seconds. When cooked, drain the meat over the hot fat; shake the basket and place the pieces on soft paper so that the fat may be absorbed. Olive oil is best for frying; but as it is expensive for general use, GO L-L ' rianned tor a Family of Four various compounds such as cottolene, suetine, crisco, etc., may be used. These on the whole are better than lard, which is easily absorbed and therefore apt to make the food greasy. Suet and drippings are cheapest; but suet alone cools quickly and leaves a tallowy taste. Dry the meat; roll it in fine bread crumbs; then dip it in beaten egg diluted with water; roll it in bread crumbs again and fry. The white of the egg hardens immediately if the fat is sufficiently hot and the fat cannot penetrate to the meat Mix a little salt and pepper with the bread crumb? Sauteing Sauteing is commonly called frying: it consists in cooking with a little fat in a shallow pan. This method is apt to make the articles greasy and is therefore to be used with caution. Use butter, olive oil, or one of the cheaper fats. Braising Braising is a cross between boiling and baking and is one of the best methods of cooking large pieces of tough, lean meat. The meat is placed in a closely covered pan partly filled with hot stock or water and cooked slowly in the oven. Bay leaf, carrot, onion and herbs are added, and the meat is usually seared first to prevent escape of the juices in the water c Stewing Stewing consists in cooking meat in a little water in a closely covered vessel. Thickening and vegetables are usually added. Cut the meat hi small pieces and brown over the fire; add boiling water; cook for a few minutes; then reduce the heat and cook very slowly. The long-continued action of the heat softens the fibers and renders the coarsest and cheapest kinds of meat tender and palatable Fricasseeing To fricassee meat saute it first to keep in its juices, then stew until tender and serve with white or brown sauce made from thr juice in the pan, 61 L-L, Planned for a Family of Four PURCHASING BEEF Roasting ribs, loin, ^iimp and pin-bone. Second cut from thinnest side of ribs and sirloin are best pieces. Broiling loin, rump, skirt. Tenderloin and sirloin the best. Boiling round . Stewing round, brisket, etc* Soup shin, leg, neck, etc Broth neck, round, etc POT ROAST Pot roast calls for brisket or round and is one of the cheaper dishes of meat. Wipe the beef with a clean, wet cloth; sear by placing in a hot frying pan and turning until the entire surface is browned, then put in a kettle with not more than a cup of hot water; cover tightly and keep just below the boiling point. Do not let the meat boil dry, but add only enough water to keep it from burning. Cook until tender and add pared potatoes one half hour before it is done. Serve with brown sauce made from the fat in the pot. ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING 2 cups flour 3 eggs % teaspoon salt 2 cups milk Roast the beef as usual. Mix the flour with the salt; add the beaten eggs and the milk and stir until the batter is smooth. Pour into a shallow baking pan containing a little of the drippings from the roast beef. Let the batter be only one inch thick and bake from thirty to forty-five minutes, basting, after it is risen, with some of the fat from the pan in which the beef is roasting. Cut into squares and place it around the roast beef BEEF A LA MODE 5 pounds beef from the round i/fc cup carrot Lardoons of pork l /2 Cl *p onion Salt and pepper l / 2 cup turnio Flour Bay leaf Water Sprig of parsley Make eight or ten deep incisions in the meat and press into them lardoons of salt pork. Brown the meat in pork fat or drip- CARVING Loin of Beef (upper cut) Loin of Beef Rolled Ribs of Beef Planned lor a TV/TT? ATC Family of Four 1V1.C, A 1 O pings; season, dredge with flour and brown again. Raise the beef on a trivet, put in water to half cover it, and the vegetables sliced or cut into cubes, bay leaf and parsley. Cover closely and cook below the boiling point for about four hours. Remove meat to platter; surround with vegetables and make a brown sauce of the strained liquor. BEEF TERRAPIN Shin of beef \/ 4 pound butter Salt and red pepper 1 cup cream 3 blades mace 1 heaping teaspoon flour 2 tablespoons currant jelly Have the shin of beef sawed through the bone in three places; put it in a vessel over the fire; cover with boiling water and throw in a tablespoon of salt. Boil slowly until tender (three or four hours^, adding more water if necessary. When the meat is done, remove and cool it, saving the broth for soup. Cut the cold meat into half-inch dice; add seasoning and butter and the flour well mixed with the cream. Bring to a boil, stir in the jelly and serve. PLANKED STEAK Nearly all planking boards are now fitted out with steel rods or bars to hold the steak in place and grooves for the conservation of the gravy. Before using, heat the board very hot before the fire or in the oven, lay the steak on and fasten into place. Brush over with olive oil or melted butter; dust with salt and pepper and lay the plank in the broiler chamber of a gas range for at least fifteen minutes. Baste frequently and reverse the plank from time to time. While the steak is cooking press fresh-boiled potatoes through a ricer; season with salt and pepper; add a little butter and cream; and beat with a fork until very light. When the steak is nearly done take the board from the oven; put the beaten potato into a pastry bag and force through the tube, rose fashion, at regular intervals along the edge of the steak on the board. Between the potato roses make little mounds of cauliflower, mushrooms, spinach or onions. Return to the oven and allow them to brown delicately. Garnish with cress and send the steak to the table on the plank, setting it on a large platter or tray 63 I.-T. IVTP A T ^ Planned for a IV1J1A 1 D _ Family of Four PLANKED STEAK WITH OYSTERS Have an extra sirloin neatly trimmed; put it on the broiler; five minutes on one side; turn and broil five minutes on the 3ther side. Make the planking board very hot while the steak is Broiling. Put the steak on ; garnish the board quickly with mashed potatoes and put it under the broiler. Turn the steak once. Dust vvith salt and pepper and rub with butter. Cover the top with Broiled oysters, then run it again under the broiler for a few minutes. Serve very hot. PLANKED SALISBURY STEAK 1 pound lean beef Mashed potatoes Salt and pepper 3 baked bananas 1 teaspoon onion juice 1 cup cream sauce l /2 cup grated horseradish Chop the meat very fine; season with salt, pepper and onion juice; make it into three cakes. Put the cakes on a hot plank and then under the broiler. It is wise to turn a Salisbury steak once during the cooking. When done garnish the plank with mashed potatoes; put it back until brown. Have ready a baked banana for each cake. Make a cream sauce; add to it half a cup of grated horseradish; fill this around the board; put the baked bananas on top and serve. CORNED BEEF All corned beef requires to be boiled slowly. Put it on in cold ^ater; allow twenty-five or thirty minutes for every pound of beef. Let it come slowly to a boil, then allow it to simmer. Cabbage is usually served with corned beef but should not be boiled with it. Parsnips or turnips may be served if preferred. PICKLE FOR CORNING BEEF 3 gallons water 1 ounce pearlash 6 3 /4 pounds salt 2\ 2 pounds sugar 1 pint molasses This pickle is sufficient for fifty pounds of beef. When salt and sugar are thoroughly dissolved lay in the beef. It will be ready for use in twelve or fourteen days, but can remain in the pickle ave or six weeks without injury. 64 i,-r, Planned for a -. __ . Family of Four MEATS ROLLED STEAK 1 small skirt steak 1 cup stock 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 slice carrot 1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 bay leaf Salt and pepper Trim the steak; sprinkle it with parsley and onion; season with pepper and salt; roll and tie it. Place it in a small roasting pan with the stock (or water if you have no stock), carrot and bay leaf and roast for one hour, basting constantly. Serve with tomato or brown sauce. MOCK DUCK 1 pound round steak i/ 2 saltspoon pepper 4 tablespoons bread crumbs i/ 2 teaspoon powdered sage 72 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons chopped onion Milk to moisten the bread Purchase a steak of uniform thickness and remove all the fat. Prepare a filling as follows: Mix together the crumbs, salt, pepper and sage; scald the onions to soften them and to remove the strong flavor, and add them to the crumbs, moistening all with milk. Wipe the steak with a damp cloth; spread the filling evenly over tke meat; roll ard tie it sewing the ends to keep it together. Place it in a roasting pan with a little water and bake for about three quarters of an hour, basting frequently. Serve with currant jelly. MOCK RABBIT 1 pound round steak 1 egg l /2 pound sausage meat 1 onion 3 slices moistened bread y 4 pound salt pork Salt and pepper Chop or grind the meat. Chop the onion and cook it in the fat tried out of a small portion of the pork; add the bread and cook a few minutes. ^ When cool, mix with the other ingredients except the pork; form into a long, round roll, smoothing it by moistening the hands with cold water. Cut the pork in thin slices; lay them over the loaf and bake for forty minutes in a hot oven. The sausage may be omitted if desired and more seasoning used in its place. 65 MF ATS Ftanned tor a 1V1.C/AJ.E) Family of Four BEEF CHOP SUEY 2 sweet peppers 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 pint tomatoes Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons chopped celery l l / 2 pounds beefsteak Choose tender steak and cut it into small pieces. Saute the vegetables in hot fat or butter and season well; cook for ten or fifteen minutes; then pour over the beef which has been cooked in similar fashion in another pan. SPANISH BEEFSTEAK 2 pounds steak Salt and red pepper Bacon or salt pork */ 2 cup milk 1/2 cup water Have the steak about one inch thick; pound until thin; season and cover with a layer of bacon or salt pork cut into thin slices, Iloll the steak ; tie it with a cord and place it in a covered baking dish with the milk and water. Cook two hours, basting oc- casionally. MEXICAN BEEF 2 chile peppers Butter or drippings 1 pint warm water Clove of garlic 2 pounds beef Boiled Mexican beans Remove the seeds from the chile peppers; soak the pods in the warm water until soft; then scrape the pulp from the pods and add it to the water. Cut the beef into small pieces and brown in butter or savory drippings. Add the garlic and chile water and cook until the meat is tender, adding more water if necessary. Thicken with a few crushed beans and serve with Mexican beans, either mixed with the meat or used as a border. If chile peppers cannot be obtained, water and cayenne may be substituted, and if Mexican beans cannot be obtained, other dried beans may be used. GUISO 1 small round steak 1 onion 1 tablespoon drippings 4 Mexican peppers 4 tablespoons boiled rice Salt 2 cups boiling water Flour to thicken Wipe the meat with a damp cloth; cut it into small pieces and put it in a frying pan with the drippings, rice, half the boiling 66 i,- L Plannea lor * TVTT? A TS Family of Four 1Y1J2/AJ.O water and the onion, sliced. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Remove the seeds from the peppers; cover them with another cup of boiling water and let them stand until cool; then squeeze them from the water with the hand, getting out all the pulp. To the water and pulp add salt and a little flour to thicken; pour over the cooked meat; boil for a minute and serve. This is one of the most palatable of Mexican dishes. FILIPINO BEEF 1 pound round beef 1 cup stale bread crumbs 1/2 pound lean fresh pork 1 egg 1 small onion 2 cups stewed tomatoes 1 green pepper 2 slices bacon 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 11/2 tablespoons flour Remove the seeds from the pepper and run it through the meat grinder with the meat and onion. Add crumbs, beaten egg and seasoning; make into a roll; place hi a shallow baking dish; pour the strained tomatoes around it; put the bacon on top and bake forty minutes, basting with the tomatoes. Thicken the gravy with the flour cooked in the butter, and serve. HUNGARIAN GOULASH 1 pound top round of beef 1 small onion 1 ounce salt pork/ 1 bay leaf 1 cup tomatoes 3 whole cloves l /2 stalk celery 3 whole peppercorns 1 blade mace Flour Salt and paprika Fry the salt pork until a light brown ; add the beef, cut into two- inch pieces and sprinkled with flour; cover with water; let simmer for two hours and season with salt and paprika. Then cook the vegetables and spices for twenty minutes in water sufficient to cover them; rub them through a sieve and add to some of the stock in which the meat was cooked. Thicken with flour, using a table- spoonful moistened in cold water to each cup of liquid, and season. Serve the meat on the platter with the sauce poured over it. Potatoes, carrots and green peppers, cooked until tender and cut into small pieces or long narrow strips, are usually put over the top. 67 L-L TV/FT? A 'PC? Planned for a 1Y1H/A 1 O Family of Four SOUR BEEF Take a piece of beef from the rump or the lower round; cover with vinegar; add sliced onion, bay leaves, a few whole spices and salt. Let it stand a week in winter or three days in summer, turning it every day and keeping it covered. When ready to cook put a piece of fat in an iron pan; brown the meat; then strain the liquid over it and cook until the meat is tender. Remove the meat; thicken the gravy with broken gin gersnaps ; strain and pour over the meat, adding a few seeded raisins if desired, BEEF BIRDS Cut slices half an inch thick from the rump ot* round of beef; divide them into pieces about four inches square; spread with sausage meat or forcemeat; roll up tightly and fasten with cord or wooden tooth-picks. Brown in butter; cover with broth; stew until tender and nearly dry; thicken the gravy with flour; add a quarter of a cup of tomato or mushroom catsup; bring to a boil and serve. BEEF LOAF l*/2 pounds round steak Salt and pepper Small piece of suet 1 small onion 1 cup bread crumbs Butter Have a small piece of suet ground with the beef; mix thoroughly with the crumbs, the seasoning and the onion finely chopped. Moisten the crumbs slightly with milk or water. Mold into a loaf; put into a roasting pan with a little water; make indenta- tions in the top of the loaf with the finger and fill with small pieces of butter. Serve hot with brown sauce, or cold, sliced thin. HAMBURG STEAK Have lean raw beef finely chopped; season well with pepper and salt and a little chopped onion or onion juice. Mold into cakes and broil in a greased broiler or hot frying pan. When done spread with butter or pour over them a brown sauce made in the pan. CREAMED BEEF Take freshly ground meat from the rump or round and cook it in a frying pan with a very little butter, stirring constantly and 08 ,. t icu * Family of Four sprinkling at every turn with salt, pepper and flour. The meat should lose its red color but not brown. When done, thin with cream or milk; bring to a boil and serve in patty cups or on toast. MINCED BEEF Chop beef from the rump or round into small pieces and stew in a little water or milk, seasoning with butter, salt and pepper when the meat is first put in the pan. Serve on buttered toast. The remains of roast beef may also be prepared in this way. CREAMED FRIZZLED BEEF y 2 pound sliced dried beef l / 2 cup cold water 1 tablespoon butter l l / 2 cup milk 3 tablespoons flour 1 egg Buttered toast Pick the meat over carefully, removing all gristle and breaking it into small bits. If very salty bring to a boil- in a little water and drain. Melt the butter in a frying pan; throw in the beef and stir it with a fork until it is cooked, but not browned. Re- move the pan from the hottest part of the stove; sift the flour over the meat, stirring all the time; add the cold water and con- tinue stirring until all the water has been absorbed. Then draw the pan to the hot part of the stove and add the milk. Bring all to a boil; add the beaten egg and serve at once on small slices of buttered toast. The egg may be omitted if preferred. BOILED BEEF'S TONGUE 1 fresh tongue 12 whole cloves 1 chopped carrot 2 bay leaves 1 chopped onion 1 cup raisins Salt Wash the tongue; throw it into a kettle of boiling water; bring to a boil; then simmer gently for two hours. Remove the tongue; skin it and put it into a kettle with the vegetables,cloves,bay leaves, raisins and enough of the water in which the tongue was boiled to coyer them. Cover the saucepan; stew gently for two hours, adding the salt at the end of one hour; remove the tongue and serve in a border of the carrots and raisins. Planned for a Family of Four SMOKED TONGUE BOILED Soak the tongue in cold water over night. In the morning cover with fresh water; bring to the boiling point; then simmer gently for four hours or until tender. When thoroughly cooked, re- move the tongue; skin it, trim off the smoked parts and serve surrounded with masked potatoes and garnished with parsley. VEAL LOAF 3 pounds veal 3 eggs 1 pound salt pork l / teaspoon pepper <5 soda crackers */2 teaspoon salt Roll the crackers fine; mix them with the chopped meat and the other ingredients; shape into a loaf and bake three hours, basting occasionally in the fat rendered from a small portion of the pork and pricking the loaf so that the fat may penetrate. Serve coH diced very thin. INDIA CURRY \\/2 pounds veal 2 onions or less y 2 cup butter or drippings l /2 tablespoon curry or less Brown the meat without fat and cut into small pieces. Fry the onions in the butter; remove them; add the meat and curry powder; cover with boiling water and cook until tender. Serve in a wide border of rice. CURRY OF VEAL 2 tablespoons butter or drippings 1 pint milk l l / 2 pounds veal 1 tablespoon flour 1/2 onion 1 teaspoon curry powder Salt and pepper Chop the onion; fry it in the butter; remove and fry the veal until it is brown. Transfer the meat to the double boiler; cover with milk and cook until tender. Add the curry powder shortly before the meat is done and thicken the milk with flour. Serve in a border of rice. BAKED CALF'S HEAD Have the butcher split open the head, remove the eyes and chop off the nose. Lay the head in salted water for half an hour; change Planned for *. Family of Four MEATS the water; wash and cleanse the head thoroughly. Take out the brains; remove all the skin and blood; tie them in a piece of cheese- cloth and put them with the head into a large kettle of boiling water. Add salt and boil the head for about two hours, or until the jaw bone can be twisted out of the meat, The brains will be 1. Neck 2 Chuck 3. Shoulder 4. Fore shank 5. Breast e. Ribs 7. Loin 8. Flank 9. Leg 10. Hind shank DIAGRAM OF CUTS OF VEAL cooked in half an hour and should be removed, but kept hot. Take out all the bones from the head, but keep it as nearly whole as possible. Butter a baking dish; lay the brains in it, then the head on them; season plentifully with powdered cloves, salt and pepper; stick small pieces of butter rolled in flour wherever there is a crack or opening, and dust with flour. Mix a little currant jelly with two cups of the broth the head was boiled in, and pour over the head; set in a hot oven and bake until very brown, basting several times. CALF'S LIVER WITH CREAM SAUCE Pour boiling water over the slices of liver and let stand five minutes to draw out the blood. Drain, wipe, remove all skin, 71 ^ TV/TT? A TQ Planned for a 1Y1I3//1 1 O Family of Four white veins and membranes, and dust with flour. Fry several slices of breakfast bacon until crisp; remove them and pour off the fat into a clean frying pan, leaving the salt and sediment. Reheat the fat; put in enough liver to cover the bottom of the pan; cook until done, testing one piece by cutting it with a knife to see whether all pink color is gone from the inside. Arrange the pieces on a hot platter, surround them with the bacon and cover with a cream sauce made in the pan. Pour off all the fat but one tablespoon; add a tablespoon of flour; cook thoroughly and add the cream or milk. BROILED LIVER Cut the liver into slices half an inch thick and let stand in boiling water for five minutes. Drain, wipe and remove all skin, veins and membranes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; place in a greased wire broiler and broil from five to eight minutes. Remove to a hot platter; spread with butter and sprinkle with pepper and salt. LIVER AND BACON Prepare as for broiled liver; sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Cook the bacon until crisp and brown; re- move it and fry the liver slowly in the fat. Cook until thoroughly done but not dried, and make a brown sauce, using the fat in the pan. Serve with the bacon. BRAISED LIVER Calf's or lamb's liver 3 peppercorns 1 carrot 2 whole cloves 1 onion 1 bay leaf 1 stalk celery 2 cups stock or water Salt pork Skewer, tie in shape and lard the liver. Cut the vegetables into small cubes; put them in a baking pan with the seasonings and bits left from the lardoons of salt pork; lay the liver on top; pour over all two cups of stock or water; cover closely and bake slowly for two hours, basting occasionally and uncovering the last fifteen minutes. Remove the liver to a platter; surround it with the vegetables; then make a brown sauce, using the strained liquor, and pour over all. 72 t-t- Planned for a TWn? A HTQ Family of Four IViH/A 1 O STEWED LIVER Prepare liver as for broiling; cut in small pieces and saute about two minutes in hot fat. Put the pieces in a saucepan with a little water, half a lemon sliced, a pinch each of cinnamon, nut- meg and cloves, and stew gently for twenty minutes. Thicken the juice a little and serve. STUFFED CALF'S LIVER 1 calf's liver l /z cup stale bread crumbs 2 cups thin brown sauce */2 small onion chopped l /2 pound chopped cold ham 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and pepper Make a dressing of the ham, bread crumbs, onion and parsley, seasoning well and moistening with a little brown sauce. Pour boiling water on the liver; let stand five minutes; then make a deep cut the entire length of the liver, beginning at the thick end. Fill the pouch; skewer the liver; lard it and put it in a baking pan with the brown sauce. Bake one hour and a quarter, basting fre- quently. PURCHASING MUTTON OR LAMB Roasting hind-quarter, leg, loin, breast. Broiling chops from loin, or breast, steaks from leg. Boiling leg. Stewing chops from fore-quarter, the neck or leg. Soup shoulder, neck, leg. / Broth neck. SHOULDER OF MUTTON STUFFED 1 cup bread crumbs Juice of one lemon 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 saltspoon pepper 1 egg Shoulder of mutton Have the blade removed from the shoulder and fill the space with a stuffing made in the usual way. Sew up the opening and roast the shoulder, putting a little water in the pan and basting frequently. Allow from fifteen to eighteen minutes to the pound, and when done make a brown sauce in the pan. The stuffing may be varied by the addition of chopped meat, celery, onion, oysters, mushrooms, etc. 73 L-I, MEATS Planned for ft Family of Four HARICOT OF MUTTON 2 tablespoons chopped onion 2 tablespoons butter or drippings Salt and pepper 2 cups water l l /2 pounds mutton or lamb Cooked lima beans Select lean meat and cut it into two-inch pieces. Fry the onions in the butter; add the meat; season and brown; cover with water; 1 Neck 2. Chuck 3. Shoulder 4. Flank 6. Loin 6, Leg DIAGRAM OF Curs OF LAMB AND MUTTON cook until tender and serve in a border of lima beans, well cooked and seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and chopped parsley o BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON Bone the shoulder; fill the space with pine nuts; dust all with flour; wrap in cheesecloth and plunge in a kettle of boiling water, Boil rapidly for five minutes; then simmer for two hours. Serve with caper cauce* 74 CARVING Leg of Mutton Shoulder of Mutton Shoulder of Mutton Planned foi a TV/I"I? A T^O Family of Four JiVl JL A 1 RAGOUT OF MUTTON V/2 pounds neck of mutton 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter V* teaspoon pepper iy 2 tablespoons flour Sprig of parsley 1 chopped onion 1 bay leaf 1 carrot cut in dice 1 whole clove 2 cups hot water l / 2 can peas Put butter in the frying pan; when melted, add flour and brown. Add carrot, onion and meat and cook until all are browned. Put in a kettle; add water, salt and pepper and the herbs, tied in a bouquet so that they can be removed. Cover and simmer for two hours, adding the peas ten minutes before serving and removing the herbs, IRISH STEW Neck of mutton 6 parboiled potatoes 1 tablespoon butter or drippings 1 carrot 2 onions Salt and pepper Cut the meat into pieces two inches square, brown in the butter; add water to cover the meat and the onions sliced. Cover closely and simmer two hours. Add more water if necessary, parboiled potatoes cut in half, a sliced carrot and seasoning. Cover and cook one hour longer; let the potatoes be soft but not broken. Thicken as desired. A bay leaf cooked with the meat or a little Worcestershire sauce added to the gravy when finished improves the flavor. PLANKED CHOPS Broil some thick chops on one side and arrange them cooked side down, overlapping each other on the hot plank. Season with salt, pepper and butter. Cook for twenty minutes, basting fre- quently. Decorate with a border of mashed potatoes pressed through ajbag and a star tube. Fill in with hot vegetables. Serve at once with brown sauce, MUTTON CHOPS WITH PEAS Broil the chops as usual and have green peas boiled. Heap the peas in the center of a round chop plate; decorate the chops with paper ruffles and arrange them symmetrically around the peas 75 fc-L MEATS Planned for a Family of Four ROAST PORK Select leg, loin, spare-rib or shoulder. If the skin is left on, cut it with a sharp knife in lines running both ways. Add water and bake in a moderate oven, allowing from twenty to thirty minutes to the pound. Serve with apple sauce. 1. Head 2. Shoulder 3. Back 4. Middle cut 5. Belly 6. Ham 7. Ribs 8. Loin V DIAGRAM OF CUTS or PORK PORK CHOPS Have chops cut not more than a half inch thick. Place them in a hot pan and cook slowly until tender and brown. Serve with fried apples. BOILED HAM Let the ham soak in cold water over night; wash thoroughly trim off the hard skin near the end of the bone; put in a kettle oi cold water; heat to boiling point and cook slowly until tender 76 L-I< Planned for a Tl/rC 1 A TC Family of Four ML&A 1 allowing from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. Let it remain in the water until cold; then skin it and cut in thin slices. BAKED HAM Soak and prepare the ham as for boiling. Boil slowly for several hours; take out the ham; remove the skin; trim off the black and smoked parts; paint all over with yolk of egg; sprinkle thickly with fine bread crumbs; put in the oven and bake for about an hour, basting frequently with a mixture of water and currant jelly. Trim the knuckle with paper ruffles and serve hot. FRIZZLED HAM Shave uncooked ham as thin as paper, fat and lean together; put in a frying pan over a quick fire; stir constantly until it begins to brown and curl. Add several tablespoons of boiling water; bring to a boil and serve. STEWED HAM Cut a thin slice of ham; divide into narrow strips two inches long; pour boiling water on it; let stand until cold; drain off the water and put the ham in a frying pan. Add a bunch of chopped parsley and about a cup of cream; stew for five minutes and serve. BROILED HAM Take a thin slice of ham; pare off the skin; remove the brown fat from the under side of the slices and lay them on a gridiron over a hot fire. When the fat is slightly browned turn over and cook the other side in the same way. If the ham is very old and salty it should be stewed a few minutes before either broiling or frying. Let it simmer in a frying pan; pour off the water and dry on a clean towel, HAM AND EGGS Have the slice of ham cut as thin as possible; place it in a heated pan and fry until it is slightly browned on both sides. Lift out the ham; break the eggs into the pan; season and let them fry until the whites are set. Remove them with a cake- turner; place over the ham and serve, garnished with parsley. 77 *-*- MEATS ..Planned for a Family of Four BACON AND EGGS Have the bacon cut into very thin slices; put them in a frying pan over a slow fire until most of the fat is extracted. Remove the bacon; break the eggs into the pan carefully; season and cook until the whites are set; lift out with a cake-turner and serve immediately, garnished with the bacon. SALT PORK IN MILK 1 pound salt pork 4 tablespoons fat 2 cups skim milk 4 level tablespoons flour Cut the pork into thin slices; cover with hot water; let stand for ten minutes and drain. Score the rind of the slices; fry until a golden brown and serve in a milk sauce. Heat the flour in some of the fat that has been rendered in frying the pork; add the milk gradually; bring to a boil and pour over th