S&KVlk I THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Agric. Ref. Bv. GIFT OF Estate of David Prescott Barrows ajV PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK A MANUAL OF HOME ECONOMIES BY MRS S TyRORER PRINCIPAL OF PHILADELPHIA COOKING SCHOOL PHILADELPHIA ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 LIBRARY STREET Copyright 1886 by MRS S T RORER All Rights Reserved GIFI MADE BY GEORGE H BUCHANAN AND COMPANY 420 LIBRARY STREET 420 TO MY FRIEND MRS ELIZA S TURNER THROUGH WHOSE ENERGY AND LIBERALITY WAS ESTABLISHED THE FIRST COOKING SCHOOL IN PHILADELPHIA THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 433 "Men die, and many, because they know not how to live ' ' " Come, pilgrim, I will bring you where you shall host" ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL CONTENTS PREFACE . . . . . vii SOUPS ..... i STOCK AND STOCK SOUPS . . 2 SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK . . . 23 FISH SOUPS . . . . 29 CHOWDERS . . .. . 34 FISH . . . . . 41 SHELL FISH . . . . . 55 MEATS . . , . 79 BEEF . 82 MUTTON . . . . . 112 LAMB . . . . . 121 VEAL . . . . . 122 PORK . . . . . 142 WHAT TO SAVE AND How TO USE IT 157 POULTRY . . . . .165 GAME ..... 202 FORCEMEATS AND STUFFINGS . . 219 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES AND GRAVIES . 221 STOCK FOR SAUCES AND GRAVIES . . 222 SALADS ..... 233 MODERN DINNER-GIVING . . . 247 MENUS ..... 249 EGGS '. . . . .253 VEGETABLES . . . . 261 BREAD . . . . .311 vi PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK RAISED ROLLS, BISCUITS, ETC. . . 322 RAISED MUFFINS, GEMS, ETC. . . 326 RAISED WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES 328 QUICK MUFFINS, WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES 331 SODA AND MILK BISCUITS . . 337 FRITTERS, DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS . 341 CEREALS . . . . 351 MACARONI . . . . 358 CHEESE ..... 363 To COOKS ..... 367 PASTRY AND PIES . . . 371 PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS . . . 389 PUDDING SAUCES .... 436 ICE CREAMS .... 445 WATER- ICES AND SHERBETS . . 458 JELLIES ..... 467 PLAIN CAKES, BUNS, ETC. . . 475 FANCY CAKES .... 480 CANDIES ..... 509 FRUIT . . . . .513 CANNING AND PRESERVING . . 519 MARMALADES . . . .523 PICKLING . . . . . 526 CATSUPS . . . . .532 DRINKS ..... 539 IN THE KITCHEN AND PANTRY . . 5/1/1 GATHERED CRUMBS . . . 549 How . . . . . 554 SUITABLE COMBINATIONS OF FOOD . 560 TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES . . 563 INDEX ..... 565 PREFACE To offer to the American housewives a new Cook Book may appear to many an unnecessary labor, con- sidering the country is already provided with elaborate works on the subject; but upon referring to many of them, I have often detected an obscurity in directions in recipes which, in the hands of an amateur, would lead to failure, and have in the following recipes endeavored to avoid this by making them so plain, that a beginner may successfully make, with few exceptions, any dish contained herein, and I may add, all these recipes have been prepared over and over again by pupils under my supervision. It has been many years since Philadelphia has contributed a publication of this kind, and as she occupies a place second to none in the science, her peculiar dishes being known not only in this country but abroad as well, it seems appropriate that she should be newly represented. (vii) viii PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Under each heading I have endeavored to give in a simple manner a brief introduction, explaining the chemistry of the article, mode of selecting, and such other information as I thought would be of interest to the reader. References to Sick Diet or Medicated Food have purposely been avoided, as there is in prepara- tion a work on Dietetics, which will contain all the recipes collected and tried during my connection with hospitals. " Before the housewife now my book is laid ' T will aid her, if its teachings be obeyed." SARAH T RORER 1525 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA SOUPS The first and most important point in making good soup is to have the best of materials. To make our soup a perfect food we must change the solid meat into a liquid form ; to do this, we must first soften the fibrin, so as to draw out the juices and blood, consisting of albumen and fat ; the gelatine, which exists in the bone, cartilages, membranes and skin, which is nitrogenous matter, but not nutritious; and the osmazome, that substance which gives odor and flavor. As a low degree of heat changes the albumen (which is exactly similar to the white of an egg} into a solid form, we at once see the necessity of using cold soft water. Soft water, because it makes its way into the tissues more readily than hard water, thereby softening the texture of the meat and allowing the juices to escape more easily ; and we also see the importance of not boiling the soup, as the albumen on the surface of the meat immediately coagulates and prevents the gelatine, fat and osmazome from dissolving and being drawn out into the water. Salt should never be added until the soup is done, as it hardens the water; and we have found that soft water is the best. As the water begins to heat a small portion of albumen coagulates, form- ing a fine fibrous net throughout the liquid entangling any substance that may be floating in it, bringing it first to the W 2 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK surface and then settling to the bottom, showing that we must watch and skim at this time to have a clear soup. You will notice that in the recipes for Consomme and Bouillon, to clarify, we boil after adding the whites of the eggs, thereby making a perfectly clear soup, but a stimulant rather than nutrient, as we rob it of its albumen and fibrin by boiling and straining; two things which cannot exist at the same time, a very clear and a very nutritious soup. Another very important point is to have a porcelain- lined or better still a granite iron soup kettle with a close cover. Why? Because the juices of the meat are always acid and will act upon a metallic kettle thereby giving the soup an inky, bitter taste. A close cover to keep in the steam and prevent evaporation and also to keep the dust and smoke out. SOUPS FROM STOCK SOUP STOCK i shin of beef 2 bay leaves 5 quarts of cold water i sprig of parsley i onion 12 cloves i carrot i stalk of celery i turnip i tablespoonful of salt Lean, uncooked juicy beef should form the basis of your soup. No cooked or stale meats should be used for clear stock. Wipe the meat well with a damp towel ; now cut all the meat from the bones. Place the bones in the bottom of a large porcelain-lined or granite soup kettle, lay the meat on top of them, add the water and stand the kettle on the back part of the range for one hour ; then place it over a good fire. After about thirty minutes, the scum of the meat will gather on the surface, and the water will begin to SOUPS 3 steam. Now place it over a more moderate fire, add one cup of cold water, and skim off the scum. Now cover the kettle closely and let it simmer (not boil) for four hours; then add the vegetables and simmer one hour longer. Then strain the stock through a fine sieve, add the salt and stand at once in a cold place to cool. If you keep it in a warm place for a few hours it will not make a nice jelly. When cold, take all the grease from the surface, and it is ready for use. BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoon fuls of pearl barley i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the barley in cold water; then cover it with boiling water, let it boil up once and drain it. Cover it again with boiling water and simmer it for two hours. Drain ; add to the stock when boiling ; let it stand on the back part of the range for ten minutes ; add salt and pepper, and serve. BLACK BEAN SOUP i pint of turtle beans 2 hard-boiled eggs T.i/2 quarts of boiling water i lemon i quart of stork Salt and pepper to taste If you use wine, i gill Wash the beans well in cold water and soak them over night. In the morning, drain the water off and cover them again with one quart of the boiling water. Boil until tender, about two hours. Now add the stock and the pint of boil- ing water. Press the whole through a sieve; wash the kettle, return the soup and bring it to a boil ; add salt and pepper. Cut the eggs and lemon into slices and put into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over,and serve. If wine is used, put it in the tureen with the lemon and egg- 4 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DRIED BEAN SOUP I pint dried beans i quart of stock Y^, pound of ham i^ quarts of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste Wash the beans and soak them over night. In the morn- ing drain the water off, and cover them again with the boiling water; add the ham and boil gently two hours. Now add the stock. Press the beans through a sieve, return them to the soup kettle and bring to a boil. Add salt and pepper, and serve with toasted bread. DRIED BEAN SOUP WITHOUT MEAT 1 quart of dried white soup beans 2 quarts of water i large tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the beans, cover them with water and soak over night. Next morning, drain, put them on to boil with two quarts of fresh cold water. As soon as they come to a boil, drain this water off and throw it away, this prevents the soup from being strong. Now cover again with two quarts of fresh boiling water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and boil until reduced to a pulp. Now press the beans through a sieve, return to the soup kettle and add sufficient water to make the soup about the consistency of cream, add the salt, pepper and butter and serve with croutons. CLEAR SOUP WITH CROUTONS i quart of stock y>, pint of croutons Salt and white pepper to taste To make the croutons, cut stale bread into thin slices, spread it lightly with butter on one side, then cut into dice. (It will take about three slices from a baker's square SOUPS 5 five cent loaf.) Place them on a tin pie dish, and put them in a moderate oven until a golden brown. Melt the stock gradually, bring it to boiling point, add salt and pepper. Serve soup in a tureen with croutons on a separate dish. If you put them in the soup when you dish it, they will become heavy and waxy before it reaches the dining room. If the soup is too light, color it with caramel. (See recipe for making it.) CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP 2 quarts of stock i quart of boiling water i small carrot i turnip i sweet potato white potato ear of corn cupful of peas cupful of beans tomato i tablespoon ful of rice or barley Put the water into a soup kettle, cut the vegetables into pieces of uniform size, otherwise the smaller ones will dis- solve and impair the transparency of the soup. (There are various small tin cutters that can be purchased for this pur- posi'.) Put the carrot and turnip on rd boil; after they have boiled one hour, add all the other vegetables and rice and boil until tender. Now add the stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it boil up once and serve. JULIENNE SOUP 2 quarts of stock 2 onions or 6 young leeks 2 carrots i head of cauliflower T turnip' i head of lettuce The white part of ^ a gill of green peas a head of celery ^ a gill of asparagus heads Scrape and cut the carrots into slices, then into dice or with the vegetable cutters. Pare and cut the turnip ; slice the 6 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK onions, cut the celery into pieces about half-inch long, and the head of cauliflower into flowerets. Put them into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil fifteen minutes ; then drain them in a colander. Melt the stock and bring it to a boil ; put the vege- tables from the colander into it and simmer half an hour. Put the peas and asparagus heads into boiling water and simmer them for twenty minutes ; then drain and add them to the boiling soup, then the lettuce, cut into pieces the size of a half-dollar (the lettuce should cook about ten minutes) ; add salt and pepper, and serve at once. LENTIL SOUP 1 pint of lentils Sprig of thyme 2 quarts of stock i bay leaf i onion i tablespoon ful of butter Sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste Wash the lentils and soak them over night. In the morn- ing drain off the water, add the stock and simmer gently until the lentils are tender, about one and a half hours. Put the butter into a frying-pan and, when melted, add the onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Fry (saute) until brown. Now add these to the lentils and simmer a half hour longer. Now press the whole through a sieve. Return it to the soup kettle, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with toasted bread cut into small squares. MACARONI SOUP i ounce of macaroni i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Break the macaroni into pieces about two inches long ; put it into a stewing-pan and cover it with one quart of boiling SOUPS 7 water. Boil it for twenty minutes, drain and cut each piece in two. Melt the stock, bring it to boiling point, add the macaroni, let it simmer five minutes, add salt and pepper and serve. A plate of Parmesan may be served with this if liked. NOODLE SOUP (Beef) 2 quarts of stock The quantity of noodles given in recipe for noodles Salt and pepper Melt the stock, then bring it to boiling point, add the noodles; boil fifteen minutes; add salt and pepper and serve at once. If you use the bought noodles, four ounces will be sufficient. Boil and make just the same. ONION SOUP 1 large Spanish or three Bermudas 2 quarts of stock 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and pepper Peel and chop the onion into dice. Put the butter in a frying pan; when hot, add the onions and stir until a nice brown. Put the stock on to boil; when it boils, skim the onions out of butter and add them to the stock, let them simmer, for thirty minutes, add salt and pepper and it is ready to serve. RICE SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of rice i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the rice and put it in a sauce-pan with one pint of boiling water, boil slowly for thirty minutes ; drain and add to boiling stock. Let the whole boil five minutes, add salt and pepper and serve. 8 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK SAGO SOUP 2 quarts of stock 2 ounces of sago Salt and pepper to taste Wash the sago through several waters, then cover it with warm water and let it soak for one hour. Melt the stock and bring it to boiling point. Drain the sago, add it to the stock ; let it boil slowly half an hour, stirring very often to prevent scorching. Add salt and pepper, and serve. SORREL SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i quart of stock i pint of sorrel Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Put the butter in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire, and as soon as melted, put the sorrel in, and stir one minute ; then add the stock, salt and pepper ; boil three minutes. Beat the yolks lightly, put them into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over gradually, stirring all the whiJe till thoroughly mixed. Serve with croutons. SPLIT PEA SOUP i pint of split peas i quart of stock i)^ quarts of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste Wash the peas in cold water (rejecting those which float) and soak them over night. In the morning drain the water off and cover them again with one quart of the boil- ing water. Boil until tender, about one and a half hours. Now add the stock and the one pint of boiling water. Press the whole through a sieve ; wash the soup kettle, return the soup, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. Dried pea soup may be made in exactly the same manner, using one pint of dried peas instead of the split ones. SOUPS 9 TOMATO SOUP No. i i quart can or one quart i stalk celery of stewed tomatoes i bay leaf i quart water or stock 2 tablespoon fills of butter i onion 4 tablespoon fuls of flour i carrot % pound of ham Cut the ham into dice and the onion into slices and fry them together until brown, then put them into a large saucepan with the water, bay leaf, celery and carrot ; let the whole simmer for one hour ; then add the tomatoes and simmer again for three-quarters of an hour. Now press the tomatoes through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth, add it to the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it boils ; add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. TOMATO SOUP No. 2 i quart can or one quart of stewed tomatoes i pint of stock or water (first the best) 1 tablespoonful of butter ^ teaspoonful of baking soda 2 tablespoon fuls of corn starch or flour i teaspoonful of sugar r small onion Sprig of parsley i bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste Put the tomatoes in a saucepan with the bay leaf, parsley, onion, and stock or water. Let all stew for fifteen min- utes. Now press, them through a sieve fine* enough to remove the seeds. Wash the saucepan, return the toma- toes to it. Put it on the fire to boil. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together until smooth, and stir into the soup when boiling. Stir constantly until smooth. Now add salt, pepper, sugar and soda. Serve immediately with croutons. 10 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK TURKISH SOUP (Miss Dodd) i quart of stock Yolks of two eggs YZ teacupful of rice i tablespoonful of cream Salt and pepper to taste Boil together for twenty minutes the rice and stock ; then press them through a sieve and return them to the kettle. Beat the yolks well and add to them the cream. Add this to the stock and rice, and stir it over the fire for two min- utes, but do not allow it to boil. Add salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve. VERMICELLI SOUP Vermicelli soup is made exactly the same as beef noodle soup, using four ounces of vermicelli instead of noodles. MEAT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS ALBERT SOUP i four-pound chicken 2 quarts of cold water 4 good-sized potatoes i onion i tablespoonful of butter i bay leaf Yolks of two eggs Sprig of parsley A grating of nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the water, bay leaf, onion and parsley, and simmer gently two hours. Take out the chicken and remove the white meat, which chop very fine. Put the bones and the remainder of the chicken back into the kettle to simmer, while the potatoes are roasting. When the potatoes are done, take out the centres and mash well. Add to them the chopped meat of the chicken, butter, nutmeg, yolks of eggs, a quar- ter of a teaspoon ful of salt, and a little pepper. Mix all SOUPS 11 well together. Form into balls about a half-inch in diam- eter, then fry them in butter until a light brown. Put them into the soup tureen. Strain the soup, skim all the fat from the surface, season with salt and pepper, let it boil up once, pour it over the balls and serve immediately. Should you be obliged to keep this soup waiting, allow the soup to remain hot in the kettle, and place the balls where they will keep warm. Put together at serving time. BOUILLON FOR PARTIES AND GERMANS 2 pounds of lean beef i stalk of celery, or i quart of cold water half teaspoon ful i small onion of celery seed i bay leaf Sprig of parsley Free the meat from all fat and gristle and chop it fine (your butcher can do this best). Put the meat in the Soup kettle with the water, bay leaf, parsley, onion and celery ; cover the kettle closely and place it on the back part of the range for two hours. Then place it over a good fire ; skim at the first boil. Now place it over a moderate fire and simmer gently four hours. Strain, return it to the soup kettle, add salt and pepper. Beat the white of one egg with half a cup of cold water until thoroughly mixed. Wash the egg shell, mash it and add it to the white. In breaking the egg, take care to separate it so nicely that none of the yellow gets into the white as the smallest por- tion of the yellow will prevent the bouillon from being perfectly clear. Now add the white, shell and water to the boiling bouillon ; let it boil hard for ten minutes ; then throw in one gill of cold water and boil five minutes longer; then take the kettle off the fire and strain through a flannel bag, add salt to taste and color with caramel about half a teaspoonful to a quart. (See recipe for Caramel.) 12 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CALF'S HEAD SOUP i calf's head i small carrot 3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley 4 cloves i bay leaf i onion Sprig of sweet marjoram Salt and pepper to taste Wash the head well through three waters; scald it; wash it again in cold water, and soak it fifteen minutes. Be sure that throat and nasal passages are perfectly clean. Now put it into a soup kettle with the cold water. Bring it slowly to a boil and let it simmer gently for five hours, skimming it carefully until no more scum rises. Put in the vegetables and spices one hour before the soup is done. When done, strain and stand away to cool. Do this the day before you want to use it; when cool, remove all the fat from the surface. Make force-meat balls as fol- lows : one cup of meat from the head, chopped fine; add to it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the grated peel of half a lemon, one raw egg, one tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and form into little balls the size of a hickory nut. Fry them in butter until a golden brown. When ready to use bring the soup to boiling point, sea- son with a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Put into a two-quart stewing-pan two ounces (two tablespoonfuls) of butter, and when it bubbles, stir in two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix well, add to this the soup, stir constantly until it boils. Put the force-meat balls into the tureen, pour over the boiling soup and, if you use it, add one glass of Sherry or Madeira. The brains should be taken out of the head before boiling. They can be used for another dish. (See recipe for cooking calf's brains.) SOUPS 13 CHICKEN SOUP No. i i chicken weighing four pounds i bay leaf 3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley 1 small onion */ cup of rice Salt and pepper to taste Clean the chicken, put it in a soup kettle with the cold water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer slowly, till the flesh drops to pieces, about three hours. Now add the onion, bay leaf, parsley, and simmer fifteen minutes. Now strain it. Wash the kettle and return the soup; add salt, pepper, and the rice, well washed. Cover the kettle and let it boil thirty minutes and it is ready to serve. CHICKEN SOUP No. 2 Take one old fowl weighing five pounds, cover it with three (jiiarts of cold water, and simmer four hours or until the chicken is tender. After the chicken has been boiling two hours, add a tablespoonful of salt, a half cup of rice, a small onion. Serve the chicken whole with egg sauce ; add pepper only to the soup. CONSOMME 2 pounds of lean beef Stalk of celery 2 pounds of veal Sprig of parsley i onion Small-sized carrot i bay leaf 2 quarts of cold water 2 tablespoon fuls of butter The under part of the round of beef and the knuckle of veal are the best for this soup. Cut all the meat into pieces about an inch square. Put the butter in the soup kettle and let it brown ; add to it the meat and stir over the fire about five minutes, or until the meat is a nice brown. Now cover the kettle and let it simmer for thirty minutes. Now 14 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK add the water and let simmer for four hours. Now add the vegetables and bay leaf and simmer one hour longer, strain through a sieve and put in a cold place to cool. When cold, remove the fat and it is ready to use. It can be clarified and colored the same as Bouillon. FRUIT SOUP 1 pint of cranberries or currants 2 quarts of water i teacupful of dried apples i teacupful of dried pears 1 teacupful of raisins 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch y z pound of sugar Cut the apples and pears into small pieces, cover with luke-. warm water and soak one hour. Stem and seed the raisins. Put the cranberries or currants into the water and boil fif- teen minutes; then press them through a sieve. Return to the soup kettle and add the apples, pears and raisins ; boil all together one hour. Moisten the corn starch with a little cold water, add it to the boiling soup ; stir constantly until it thickens, add the sugar and serve. GIBLET SOUP 2 sets of chicken giblets Sprig of parsley i pound of lean beef i tablespoon ful of butter i onion i^ quarts of cold water i carrot 3 tablespoonfuls of flour i bay leaf 6 hard-boiled eggs Wash the livers, open the hearts and remove the clotted blood. Cut open the gizzards, being careful not to cut through the innermost lining ; empty them of sand and gravel and then cut out the thick skin remaining. Put the butter in a frying-pan. Cut the vegetables into squares. Throw them into the hot butter and stir until a nice brown. SOUPS 15 Now skim them out and put them into a soup kettle with the beef, giblets, water, bay leaf and parsley. Place it over a moderate fire and let it simmer until the gizzards are tender, about two hours, skimming until clear. Now add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan after frying the vegetables; mix until smooth; strain the soup into it, and boil and stir until it thickens. Take out the giblets and cut them into dice, and put them in the soup tureen with the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs. Season the soup with salt and pepper, pour it over the giblets and eggs and serve at once. Do not use the beef. If you use wine, one gill will be sufficient. GUMBO SOUP No. i 1 chicken i ^ quarts of cold water 50 oysters i bay leaf 2 dozen okras i onion T/2 pound of ham 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and cayenne to taste Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee, dredge the pieces with flour and brown them in the butter. Put them into a soup kettle with the ham, cut into small squares, the onion and the bay leaf. Place the kettle over a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil. Skim carefully at the first boil and sim- mer gently for two hours. Now add the okras, cut into slices, and simmer one hour longer. Drain the oysters, add them to the soup, with the salt and cayenne. Boil two minutes longer and serve. GUMBO SOUP No. 2 i chicken 6 tomatoes or one pint i onion canned tomatoes Y^ pound of ham i bay leaf i tablespoonful of butter ^ cup of rice i^ pints okras Salt and pepper to taste 16 PHILADELPHIA COOK SO OK Cut the chicken same as No. i ; cut the ham into squares and the onion into slices. Roll the chicken in flour and brown it in the butter. Then put it into a soup kettle with the ham, onion, bay leaf and water. Place it on a mode- rate fire, and bring it slowly to a boil, skimming carefully. Simmer gently forty-five minutes. In the meantime cover the okras with cold water and soak twenty minutes, cut them in slices and add them to the soup. Simmer gently one hour ; then add the tomatoes, pared and cut into small pieces, and the rice. Boil half an hour longer, season and serve. GREEN PEA SOUP i quart of green peas i tablespoonful of butter i quart of stock or water i tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Put the peas in boiling water and boil them twenty minutes. Drain and press them through a colander. Put the stock or water on the fire; when boiling, add the peas. Rub the butter and flour together and stir them into the boiling soup ; stir constantly until it thickens, add salt and pepper. Beat the yolks lightly, put them in the soup tureen, add the soup gradually to them, mix well and serve with squares of toasted bread. If you use canned peas, just press them through the colander. MOCK TURTLE SOUP calf's head 2 tablespoon fuls of butter pound of calf's liver 3 quarts of cold water calf's heart 4 even tablespoonfuls of flour bay leaf i tablespoonful of mushroom carrot catsup onion i tablespoonful of Worcester- 12 cloves shire sauce i turnip 2 hard-boiled eggs Bunch of pot-herbs i lemon Salt and pepper to taste SOUPS 17 Have the butcher unjoint the jaws and take out the brains. Now wash the head well through several cold waters. Pour boiling water through the throat and nasal passages, then wash again in cold water. Now put it in the soup kettle and cover with the cold water ; put it over a moderate fire. Skim at the first boil and again in fifteen minutes. Let it simmer until the meat on the head is tender, about two hours. Remove the head, take off the meat and tongue and put on the ice to cool. Put the bones back into the kettle, add the vegetables cleaned and cut into pieces, also the cloves and bay leaf. Let this simmer for two hours longer. Strain and put away over night to cool. Put the liver and heart in the ice-chest with the other meat. In the morning skim all the fat from the surface. Put the butter in a large stewing-pan and stir until a nice brown, then add the flour, mix well, and add the soup; boil and stir five minutes; have ready the meat from the head and half the liver cut into dice, add them to the soup and boil up once ; then take from the fire and add the sauces, salt, pepper and, if you use wine, a glass of sherry. Slice the hard-boiled eggs and lemon, put. them into the tureen, pour the boiling soup over and serve. MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP i chicken 3 small onions i tablespoon ful of butter 1 tablespoon ful of curry powder 4 cloves Juice of half a lemon 2 quarts of cold water Salt to taste Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee ; cut the onions into slices. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the chicken and onions, and stir until a nice brown ; now add the curry 18 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK powder, salt, cloves and lemon juice; mix well. Put into the soup kettle with the water, bring slowly to a boil, skim and simmer gently for two hours. Serve with boiled rice in a separate dish. Three rabbits may be used instead of the chicken, if preferred. MUTTON SOUP 6 pounds of the neck ^ cup of rice i onion i bay leaf 4 quarts of cold water Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the necks with a damp towel, put them in a soup kettle and cover with the water; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully; cover and simmer gently for four hours. Strain and stand away over night to cool. In the morning remove all fat from the surface. Put the soup into the kettle, add the onion, bay leaf and rice. Simmer half an hour, season with salt and pepper and serve. NOODLE SOUP i chicken weighing four pounds 3 quarts of cold water i small onion i bay leaf Sprig of parsley The quantity of noodles given in recipe for noodles, or four ounces of bought noodles Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the cold water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer gently two hours ; then add the onion, bay leaf and parsley, and sim- mer one hour longer. Dish the chicken and serve it with egg sauce. Put the noodles into the soup and boil fifteen minutes ; add salt and pepper and serve. SOUPS 19 NORMANDY SOUP i knuckle of veal 4 quarts of cold water i quart of white button onions y 2 baker's five-cent loaf 1 quart of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Put the veal in a soup kettle with the onions and water. Let it simmer slowly for two hours. Then add the bread, cut into slices. Let it simmer two hours longer. Then remove the knuckle and press the remaining ingredients through a sieve. Return it to the soup kettle. Rub the butter and flour together to a smooth paste, stir it into the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the cream, salt and pepper and serve. This soup is delicious. OX-TAIL SOUP 2 ox-tails i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of butter i bay leaf i onion 2 quarts of cold water 4 cloves or stock i carrot Salt and pepper to taste Wash and wipe the ox-tails. Cut them into pieces about one inch long. Put the butter into a frying-pan ; when hot, throw in the ox-tails and stir until they turn brown, then skim them out, and put them into a soup kettle with the onion, the cloves, the carrot, the turnip, the bay leaf and the water or stock (the latter the best). Simmer until the tails are tender, about two hours. Then remove the vege- tables, add salt and pepper and serve. If you use wine, one glass of sherry. 20 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK PEPPER POT i knuckle of veal 2 medium-sized potatoes i pound of plain tripe i bay leaf i pound of honey-comb tripe 3 quarts of cold water Bunch of pot-herbs 2 tablespoon fuls of butter i onion 2 tablespoon fuls of flour i^ pound of. suet Salt and cayenne to taste Wash the tripe well in cold water. Put it in a kettle, cover it with cold water and boil eight hours ; this should be cooked the day before you want the soup. Wipe the knuckle with a damp towel, put it in a soup kettle, cover with the water, place it on the fire and bring slowly to a simmer, carefully skimming off the scum. Simmer gently for three hours, then strain and return soup to the kettle. Wash the pot-herbs, chop the parsley, rub off the thyme leaves, and cut only half the red pepper (they usually put a whole one in each bunch). Cut the potatoes into dice ; add all these and the bay leaf to the soup. Cut the tripe into pieces one inch square. Cut the meat from the knuckle into small pieces; add these also to the soup; 'place it on the fire and, when at boiling point, season with the salt and cayenne. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling soup, and then fifty small dumplings made as follows : Chop the suet fine, measure it, and take double the quantity of flour, one-quarter of teaspoonful of salt, mix well together, moisten with ice water (about a quarter of a cup). Form into tiny dumplings about the size of a marble, throw into the soup, simmer for fifteen minutes and serve. RABBIT SOUP 2 young rabbits i bay leaf 2 quarts of cold water ^ cup of rice i good-sized onion i tablespoonful of butter i blade of mace Salt and pepper SOUPS 21 Skin and singe the rabbits. Wash them well in warm water. Cut them in small pieces and put in a soup kettle. Cover with the water, add the onion, mace and bay leaf. Place on a moderate fire and simmer gently until the meat is tender, about an hour and a half. Strain and return the soup to the kettle ; add the rice, salt and pepper, and simmer for a half hour ; add the butter ; separate the meat from the bones and add it to the soup, which is then ready to serve. x SOUP a la REINE. i fowl weighing five pounds 4 cloves 3 quarts of cold water 3 tablespoon fuls of butter 1/2 cup of rice 2 tab lespoon fuls of flour ]/?, pint of good cream i blade of mace i carrot i piece of cinnamon half i onion an inch long i bay leaf Salt and pepj>er to taste Clean the fowl, put it in the soup kettle with the water, rice, mace, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaf. Cover the kettle and simmer gently two hours. Clean the vegetables and cut them into squares. Put the butter in a frying-pan ; when hot, throw in the vegetables and stir until a nice brown ; then skim them out, put them in the soup kettle, cover and simmer one hour longer. Now add the flour to the butter left in the frying-pan (if the butter is burned take fresh butter), mix and stir into the soup. Skim as it boils after adding the butter. Now take out the chicken ; remove the white meat, chop it very fine and put it back into the soup. Remove the carrot and spices and press the rest through a sieve. Wash the kettle, return the soup, add the cream, salt and pepper ; boil up once and serve. If you use wine, one gill at serving time. 22 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT i carrot i root of celery i sweet potato i tablespoonful of butter i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of rice i parsnip 2 quarts of cold water i white potato i bay leaf i onion i teaspoonful of salt i sprig of parsley Cut the vegetables into dice. Put the butter into a frying- pan; and, when hot put in all the vegetables but the white potato and fry until a light brown. Then turn the whole, butter and all, into. a soup kettle, add the water, rice, bay leaf, salt, parsley and celery. Let them boil slowly one and a quarter hours. Then add the white potato; boil fifteen minutes longer, season to taste and serve. VEGETABLE SOUP WITH SHIN OF BEEF i shin of beef i teacupful of chopped 5 quarts of cold water cabbage i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of barley i carrot i onion i parsnip i potato i root of celery Salt and pepper to taste Wipe the shin with a damp towel. Put it into a soup kettle, add the water, place it over a moderate fire and bring it slowly to a boil. Skim off all the scum and let it simmer gently four hours. Remove the meat, place it where it will keep warm for dinner. Skim off all the fat from the top of the soup. Clean the vegetables and cut them into dice (you may chop them if you like in a chopping bowl). Add them to the soup. Scald the barley and let it stand five minutes, then add it to the soup. Simmer the whole one hour longer. Season to taste and it is ready to serve. Rice may be used in the place of barley. SOUPS CREAM SOUPS VEAL STOCK 2 knuckles of veal i bay leaf 5 quarts of cold water i turnip i tablespoon ful of salt Stalk of celery i onion Sprig of parsley i carrpt 4 cloves i blade of mace Wipe the knuckles with a damp towel and have the bones cracked. Put them into a soup kettle with cold water and salt. Place on a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil; skim. Now simmer gently for four hours. Clean the vegetables and add them and all the other ingredients to the soup and simmer one hour longer. Strain and it is ready to use. WHITE STOCK Skeletons of yesterday's chickens 3 pounds of veal i pound of ham Sprig of parsley i bay leaf 1 small onion 2 quarts of water i tablespoon ful of salt Put the skeletons, veal, ham and water in a soup kettle, place over a moderate fire, bring it slowly to a boil. Skim carefully. Now simmer gently two hours. Add the parsley, bay leaf, onion and salt. Simmer one hour longer. Strain and put in a cold place to cool. When cold re- move the fat and it is ready to use. 24 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP i bunch of asparagus 1 quart of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of corn starch or flour i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the asparagus, tie it in a bunch, put it in a sauce-pan of boiling water. Boil gently three-quarters of an hour. Take it from the water, cut off the tops, put them aside until wanted. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Press the asparagus stalks through a colander, add them to the milk. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together until smooth, add to the boiling milk and stir constantly, until it thickens. Now add the asparagus tops, salt and pepper and serve. Canned asparagus may be used when you cannot get the fresh. One quart can will be sufficient. This soup may be varied by using one pint of veal or white stock and one pint of milk, instead of the one quart of milk. CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of barley i pint of veal or white i pint of milk stock Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste Scald the barley, drain, cover with fresh boiling water and boil three hours. Strain. Put the milk and stock on to boil, add the barley, salt and pepper. Beat the yolks lightly, put them in the soup tureen, pour over the boiling soup and serve at once. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP 3 roots of celery 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i quart of milk i pint of water i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste A piece of onion the size of a silver quarter SOUPS 25 Wash the celery and cut it into small pieces. Cover it with the water and boil thirty minutes ; then press it through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add to it the water and celery that was pressed through the col- ander, also the onion. Rub the butter and flour together, and stir into the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add salt and pepper and serve at once. This may be varied same as cream of asparagus soup. CREAM OF CHEESE or DUCHESS SOUP 1 quart of milk A slice of carrot A slice of onion A blade of mace 2 tablespoon fuls of butter 2 tablespoon fuls of flour 3 heaping tablespoon fuls of grated Parmesan cheese Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper Put the milk on to boil in the farina boiler, with the carrot, onion and mace. Rub the butter and flour together. Re- move the vegetables from the milk, add the butter and flour, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the cheese, and stir three minutes. Now take it from the fire, add the beaten yolks of the eggs, salt and pepper and serve at once. This soup cannot be heated over. Veal stock may be used in this soup same as cream of asparagus soup. CREAM OF CORN SOUP i pint of grated corn 3 tablespoon fuls of butter 3 pints of boiling water or, 2 even tablespoon fuls of flour better, veal stock Yolks of two eggs i pint of hot milk Salt and pepper to taste Put the cobs from which you have removed the corn in the boiling water or stock and boil slowly half an hour. Re- 26 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK move them, put in the corn and boil till very soft, about twenty minutes, then press it through a sieve. Season and let it simmer while you rub the butter and flour together; add these to the soup and stir it constantly until it thickens. Now add the boiling milk, cook one minute, then add the beaten yolks, and serve immediately. CREAM OF LIMA BEAN SOUP i quart of very young i tablespoonful of butter lima beans 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour i pint of milk Salt and pepper to taste i pint of veal stock Yolks of two eggs Put the beans in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, boil slowly thirty minutes. Drain and press them through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Add the beans to the stock. Rub the butter and flour together ; add to the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens. Now add this to the stock. Let it all boil up once, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs. CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. i Shell half a peck of green peas, wash the pods, put them into a soup kettle with plenty of cold water; boil until tender; drain and throw away the pods. Put the peas into this water and boil them three-quarters of an hour. Take out one cup of the peas and mash the rest through a sieve. Put them back again into the soup kettle (the soup should now measure about a pint); add three pints of rich milk and the cup of peas ; let it come to a boil. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste and stir into the soup ; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, season with pepper and salt. A table- spoonful of white sugar and a sprig of mint are pleasant additions. 1 t SOUPS 27 CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. 2 I pint of canned peas i tablespoonful of butter i quart of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Press the peas through a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; as soon as it boils, add to it the peas that have been pressed through the colander. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the boiling soup and stir constantly until it thickens. Add salt and pepper and serve immediately. POTATO SOUP 4 good-sized potatoes Stalk of celery i quart of milk i bay leaf i piece of onion the size of i tablespoonful of butter a silver quarter i tablespoonful of flour i sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste Put the potatoes on to boil in one quart of cold water. When they Are- half done (about fifteen minutes) drain all the water off and cover them again with one pint of fresh boiling water; add the bay leaf, onion, parsley and celery, and boil until the potatoes are done. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Now press the potatoes through a sieve or vegetable press. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling milk until it thickens. Now pour this over the potatoes, stir until smooth and serve immedi- ately. This soup cannot stand or be warmed over. CREAM OF RICE SOUP % teacupful of rice ^ of a small onion i quart of white stock i stalk of celery i quart of cream or milk i bay leaf i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Wash the rice carefully, add it to the cold stock with the bay leaf, onion and celery. Simmer slowly two hours. 28 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Press it through a sieve, return it to the soup kettle, add the butter, cream or milk, salt and pepper and stir con- stantly, until it just comes to a boil, when it is ready to serve. Cream of barley soup may be made the same as above, simmering the barley four hours. CREAM OF SAGO SOUP ]/ 2 cupful of sago Sprig of parsley i quart of veal or white stock i bay leaf 1 pint of cream or milk i small onion 2 even tablespoon fuls of flour i tablespoonful of butter Wash the sago well in cold water, cover with clean cold water and soak three hours. Put the stock in the soup kettle with the onion, parsley and bay leaf. Drain the sago, add it to the stock and simmer slowly for half an hour. Now take out the onion, bay leaf and parsley. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling. Stir con- stantly until it thickens. Now pour this into the soup kettle, add seasoning and serve. SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT SOUP i bunch or one dozen salsify roots i quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Scrape the salsify, cut it into slices, cover it with boiling water, about one pint, and boil slowly one hour, or until tender ; then add the milk (do not drain off the water). Rub the butter and flour together, add it, six whole allspice, a blade of mace and a bay leaf, and stir the soup con- stantly until it boils, add the seasoning and let stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. Take out the bay leaf and serve. SOUPS 29 CREAM OF TAPIOCA SOUP Cream of tapioca soup is made the same as cream of sago soup, using a half cup of tapioca instead of a half cup of sago. CREAM OF TOMATO or MOCK BISQUE SOUP i quart of milk i pint can of tomatoes, or one pint of stewed tomatoes i large tablespoonful of butter i bay leaf Sprig of parsley Blade of mace 1 teaspoon ful of sugar % teaspoon ful of baking soda 2 tablespoon fuls of flour Put the tomatoes on to stew with the bay leaf, parsley and mace ; let them stew for fifteen minutes. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the milk when boiling and stir constantly until it thickens. Now press the tomatoes through a sieve and, if ready to use the soup, add the sugar and soda to the tomatoes, and then the boiling milk ; stir and serve imme- diately. It must not go on the fire after mixing the milk with the tomatoes, or it will separate. If you are not ready, let them stand on the fire separately and mix them when wanted. FISH SOUPS BISQUE OF LOBSTER 2 hen lobsters i tablespoonful of butter 2 quarts of veal stock i tablespoonful of flour Season with salt, black and cayenne pepper 30 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Boil the lobsters and open. (See directions for boiled lob- sters.) Cut the meat into dice. Bruise the shells and small claws and add them to the stock, and simmer thirty minutes. Pound and mix the spawn, if any, the fat, and two tablespoonfuls of the meat, part of the coral, the butter and flour, until reduced to a pulp. Strain the stock and add it gradually to the pulp, stirring all the while. Now add the seasoning, return it to the fire, add the lobster meat and the remainder of the coral rubbed fine, and serve immediately. HALIBUT SOUP i pound of halibut i small onion 1 quart of milk i bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Sprig of parsley i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Put the fish in a sauce-pan, add the bay leaf, parsley and onion, cover with boiling water and simmer for fifteen min- utes. Take the fish carefully out of the water, remove the centre bone and skin and mash the flesh fine in a colander. (It is not necessary to press it through.) Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour to- gether, add to the milk when boiling, stir until it thickens, then add the fish, salt and pepper ; let it heat up thoroughly and it is ready to serve. Any white fish may be used in place of halibut. CLAM SOUP No. i 25 clams 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1^/2 pounds of veal or i pint of milk or cream one knuckle i bay leaf 1 quart of water i small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Sprig of parsley Put the veal or knuckle into a soup kettle with the water, onion, parsley, bay leaf and the liquor drained from the clams. Simmer slowly, one and a half hours, skimming SOUPS 31 carefully. Then strain the soup and return it to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the soup when boiling and stir constantly until it boils again. Chop the clams fine, add them to the soup, then the seasoning ; let all boil five minutes, then add the milk or cream and take from the fire at once. If you boil it after adding the milk it will curdle. CLAM SOUP No. a 50 clams 2 tablespoon fuls of butter i pint of milk i dozen water crackers i pint of water Pepper to taste Drain the clams and put the liquor on to boil; chop the clams fine. Skim the liquor, as it boils, free from all scum, then add the water, clams and pepper, and simmer for five minutes ; add the butter and then the milk ; let it heat (but not boil). Take from the fire, add 'the crackers, broken into small pieces, and serve at once. SALMON SOUP i pound of fresh salmon i tablespoon ful of butter i pint of -milk 2 tablespoon fuls of flour i pint of veal stock Salt and pepper to taste Wash the salmon, put it in a saucepan, cover it with boil- ing water and simmer for fifteen minutes. Take from the water, remove the skin and bones and mash the flesh in a colander. Put the milk and stock on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the stock and milk when boiling, stirring constantly until it thickens. Now add the salmon, let it come to a boil and serve. Canned salmon may be used in place of fresh. GREEN TURTLE SOUP (The Caterer) The day before you intend to dress the turtle cut off its head; and to do this properly you should hang up the victim with its head downwards, use a very sharp knife and make the incision as close to the head as possible. You must not be 32 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK surprised at seeing, many hours after the decollation, the creature exhibit extraordinary signs of muscular motion, by the flapping of his fins. Separate the upper from the lower shell, and in this operation be very careful not to touch the gall bladder, which is very large and, if pene- trated, would completely destroy the flesh over which its contents ran. Cut the meat of the breast in a half-dozen pieces ; abstract the gall and entrails and throw them away at once. Separate the fins as near the shell as possible, abstract the green fat and put it on a separate dish from the white meat. Boil the upper and lower shells in water suffi- ciently long to enable you to take away the bones. Then remove with a spoon the mucilage that you find adhering to the shells ; put this also in a separate dish. Into the largest stewpan your kitchen affords put the head, fins, liver, lights, heart and all the flesh, a pound of ham, nine or ten cloves, a couple of bay leaves, a good-sized bunch of sweet herbs (such as winter savory, marjoram, basil, thyme), a silver onion cut into slices and a bunch of parsley. Cover all these with the liquor in which you have boiled the shells and let it simmer till the meat be thor- oughly done, which you can ascertain by pricking with a fork and observing if any blood exudes ; when none ap- pears, strain the liquor through a fine sieve and return it to the stewpan, which may remain at some distance from the fire. Cut the meat into square bits of about an inch. Put the herbs, onion, etc., into a separate saucepan with four ounces of butter, three or four lumps of sugar and a bottle of Madeira ; let this boil slowly. Whilst this is doing, melt in another saucepan half a pound of fresh butter and, when quite dissolved, thicken it with flour, but do not make it too thick, and then add a pint of the liquor from the shells ; let this boil very gently, removing the scum as it rises. SOUPS 33 When both these saucepans are ready, strain the con- tents of the first through a sieve, and this done, add both to the stewpan. Warm up the liquor from the shells, the green fat and mucilage and put them and the meat into the stewpan with the yolks of a dozen hard-boiled eggs, the juice of half a dozen green limes and two teaspoon- fuls of cayenne. Gently warm up the whole together, and you may regard your cookery as complete. Fill as many tureens as your soup will permit, and, as these are required for the table, take especial care to warm the soup before serving by putting the tureens in a hot water bath (bain- marie) ; boiling it up a second time would deprive this delicious preparation of its true flavor. OYSTER SOUP 50 oysters i dozen pepper-corns i pint of cold water i tablespoonful of butter i pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn starch Salt and pepper to taste Put the oysters in a colander to drain, then pour over them the cold water and allow it to drain into the liquor. Now pour the liquor into the soup kettle, set the kettle over a good fire and when it boils skim it. Now add the milk and the pepper-corns. Rub the butter and corn starch together until smooth and add them to the mixture as soon as it boils. Stir constantly until it boils again. Wash the oysters, after draining, by allowing cold water to run over them through the colander. Now add them to the soup, stir continually, until it comes to a boil, add the salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Do not allow the oysters to boil, as it destroys their flavor and makes them tough. But be equally careful that the oysters are heated through, as nothing is more objec- tionable than a cold, uncooked oyster in a hot soup. CHOWDERS CLAM CHOWDER 50 clams i pound of veal ^ pound bacon or ham pint of stewed or canned tomatoes pint of water pint of milk 6 water crackers or three sea biscuit teaspoonful of thyme teaspoonful of sweet marjoram tablespoonful of chopped parsley 3 medium-sized potatoes Salt and pepper to taste Line the bottom of the saucepan with the bacon or ham cut into dice. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Chop the onion fine. Cut the veal into pieces a half-inch square. Chop the clams. Mash the crackers. Now put a layer of the potatoes on the bacon or ham, and then a sprinkling of onion, thyme, sweet marjoram, parsley, salt and pepper, and then a layer of veal, then tomatoes, then a layer of chopped clams, and continue these alternations until it is all in, having the last layer clams. Now add the water, which should be boiling and barely cover the whole. Cover closely, place on a slow fire and simmer for half an hour without stirring. Then add the milk and crackers, stir and cook ten minutes longer and serve very hot. The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked. (34) CHOWDERS 35 CORN CHOWDER 1 quart of grated corn 3 tablespoon fuls of flour 4 good-sized potatoes i pint of milk 2 medium-sized onions 6 water crackers y* pound of bacon or ham Yolk of one egg i large tablespoonful of butter ^ pint of boiling water Pare and cut the potatoes and onions into dice. Cut the bacon or ham into small pieces and put it into a frying- pan with the onions and fry until a nice brown. Put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of bacon or ham and onion, then a layer of corn, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then a layer of potatoes, and so on, until all is in, having the last layer corn. Now add the water and place over a very moderate fire and simmer for twenty minutes. Then add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling chowder. Add the crackers, broken ; stir, and cook five minutes longer. Taste to see if properly seasoned, take it from the fire, add the beaten yolk of the egg and serve. FISH CHOWDER 3 pounds of fish * pound of bacon or ham i pint of milk i tablespoonful of thyme 3 medium-sized potatoes i teaspoonful of sweet i quart of water marjoram i pint of stewed or canned 6 water crackers or three tomatoes sea biscuit i large-sized onion Salt and pepper to taste Cut the fish, the potatoes, the onion, and bacon or ham, into pieces about a half-inch square. Now put the bacon or ham and the onion into a frying-pan, stir and fry them a light brown. Put a layer of the potatoes in a sauce- pan, then a layer of fish, then a sprinkling of onions 36 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK and bacon or ham, then a layer of tomatoes, then a sprinkling of thyme and sweet marjoram, salt and pepper, and continue these alternations until all is in, having the last layer potatoes. Now add the water. Cover closely, place it over a moderate fire and let it simmer twenty minutes without stirring. In the meantime put the milk in a farina boiler and break into it. the crackers; let it stand three minutes. Now add this to the chowder, stir, let it boil once, see that it is properly seasoned and serve very- hot. The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked. POTATO CHOWDER 6 good-sized potatoes i tablespoon ful of chopped i tablespoonful of flour parsley i good-sized onion i tablespoonful of butter % pound of bacon or ham i pint of milk i pint of water Pare and cut the potatoes into dice and chop the onion fine. Cut the bacon or ham into small pieces. Put the bacon or ham and the onion in a frying-pan and fry until a light brown. Now put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of the ham or bacon, onion, parsley, salt and pepper, then a layer of potatoes, and so on until all is used. Add the water, cover closely and simmer twenty minutes. Then add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the boiling chowder and stir carefully until it boils. Taste to see if properly seasoned ; if not, add more salt and pepper and serve. ADDITIONAL RECIPES 37 38 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK ADDITIONAL RECIPES 39 40 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FISH The flesh of all fish out of season is unwholesome; to be eatable they should be perfectly fresh, the eyes clear, the gills red, the scales bright, the flesh firm and free from any unpleasant odor and, to secure the best flavor, should be cooked as soon as possible after leaving the sea, river or pond. They should be scaled and cleaned as soon as they come home from the market, washed quickly without soaking, removing the smallest atom of blood. Sprinkle salt on the inside and put them in a cold place until wanted. If necessary to keep them over night, place where the moon will not shine on them, as the effect is as bad as the hot sunshine. Cod, haddock and halibut may be kept a day before using, but mackerel and whitefish lose their life as soon as they leave the water. The fat or oil of most fish is found in their livers, consequently the flesh is white. Salmon, herring, mackerel, sturgeon and catfish are exceptions, having the oil distributed throughout the body, thereby giving color to the flesh. STOCK FOR BOILING FISH 5 pounds of haddock 4 whole cloves 1 onion i stalk of celery 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of parsley 3 quarts of cold water (40 42 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Clean and wash the fish, cut it into pieces about three inches square; put it into a soup kettle, with the water, onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery and parsley ; place it over a moderate fire and skim at the first boil. Simmer gently for two hours, then strain, add a tablespoonful of salt and it is ready for use. This makes a nice soup for Lent, served clear, with croutons. BOILED FISH Wash the fish well in cold water. Wipe it carefully, and rub it with a little salt. Wrap it in a cloth ; cheese cloth will answer. Have the cloth just large enough to envelop the fish. Sew the edges so that there will be but one thick- ness of the cloth over any part of the fish. Now put it into a fish kettle if you have one ; if not you may lay it on a platter, tie fish and platter together in a cloth and put it in the bottom of a large saucepan. Cover with boiling water, add one tablespoonful of salt and simmer very gently ten minutes to every pound of fish. Take the fish from the water the moment it is done; drain, remove the cloth care- fully, turn the fish on to the plate ; garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Serve with either shrimp, oyster, Hollandaise or caper sauce, or plain drawn butter. All cold boiled fish left may be utilized in making salads, croquettes or a la cremes. This is a general rule for boiling all kinds of fish. BOILED SALMON STEAKS Have the steak about two inches thick; wrap in a cloth, put in a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and simmer twenty minutes. Serve with lobster or shrimp sauce. Rub the coral of the lobster fine and sprinkle over the fish. Halibut steaks may be boiled and served in the same way. FISH 43 TO BOIL SALT CODFISH Wash the fish well in cold water. Cover it with fresh cold water and soak over night. In the morning, wash it again ; put it into a kettle, cover with cold water, place over a hot fire and bring it to boiling point. Now stand it over a more moderate fire for four hours. If it boils, the fish will become hard. When done, dish and serve with drawn butter. TO FRY FISH " Small fish should nvim twice, once in water and once in oil" Perch, brook trout, catfish and all small fish are best fried. They should be cleaned, washed well in cold water and immediately wiped dry, inside and outside, with a clean towel, and then sprinkled with salt. Use oil if con- venient, as it is very much better than either dripping or lard. Never use butter as it is apt to burn and has a ten- dency to soften the fish. See that the oil, lard or dripping is /W/X/^hot, before putting in the fish. Throw in a crumb of bread ; if it browns quickly, it is hot enough and the fish will not absorb any grease. FRIED SMELTS To clean them, make a slight opening at the gills, then draw them between the thumb and finger, beginning at the tail. This will press out all the insides. Wash and wipe them. Now sprinkle them with salt; dip them first in beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with sauce Tartare. Ail small fish may be fried in the same way. 44 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRIED HALIBUT Cut the halibut steak into pieces about two inches square. Beat an egg, same as for fried oysters ; season the halibut with salt and pepper, dip first in the egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown in boiling fat. Lay on brown paper to drain and serve on a hot dish*. FRIED WHITEFISH ETC. Scale and wash the fish. Trim off the fins and take out the gills. Wipe it dry immediately. Dredge it with salt, pepper and flour. Put four tablespoonfuls of dripping or lard in a frying-pan ; when hot, put the fish into it. Brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other. When done, take out carefully, put on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve. Bass, bluefish, porgies, flounders, weakfish and herring may be fried in the same way. TO BROIL FISH This is one of the nicest ways of cooking shad, bluefish, mackerel, salmon and the large trout. Always use a double broiler. Rub it well with a piece of suet before put- ting the fish in. A fish weighing four pounds will take half an hour to cook over a clear but moderate fire. The flesh side should be first exposed to the fire, then the skin. Great care must be taken not to burn the skin side. When the fish is done, separate it carefully from the broiler with a knife so as not to break the nice brown outside. Sprin- kle with salt and pepper, and spread it with butter, stand it in the oven for a moment and it is ready to serve. For broiling, the fish should be cleaned and split down the back, leaving on the head and tail. FISH 4o BROILED HALIBUT or SALMON Have the steak cut one inch thick, wash it quickly and care- fully, dry it with a towel, place it on a broiler and broil over a clear fire (not too hot) for ten minutes or until a nice brown on one side ; then turn and broil on the other side. Put on a hot dish, spread with butter, dredge with salt and pepper on both sides, garnish with pars- ley and serve. HALIBUT STEAK a la FLAMANDE Take a halibut steak an inch and a half thick, wash and wipe it dry. Butter the bottom of a roasting pan, sprinkle it with chopped onion, salt and pepper; put the fish on top of this, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle thickly with chopped onion, parsley, salt and pepper, pour over it a teaspoonful of lemon juice, cover with a tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with Bechamel sauce and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. BROILED MACKEREL (Salt) Wash and scrape all the thin black skin from the inside. Soak the fish in a large pan full of cold water over night. In the morning wash it in fresh water and wipe it. Brush it with melted butter, dredge lightly with pepper, lay it on a greased broiler and broil with the flesh side down over a clear fire ; then turn and broil the skin side. Be careful as it will burn very quickly on this side. When done lay it on a hot dish and spread with butter or serve with maitre d' hotel sauce. 46 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK BROILED SMOKED SALMON Cut a piece of the salmon the size you wish. Wash it well in cold water, then cover it with boiling water and let it stand on the back part of the stove where it will keep warm (not hot) for twenty-five minutes. Then take it out, wipe dry and broil the same as mackerel. BAKED SHAD Scrape free from all scales, make a short opening down the belly and take out the insides; wash well inside and out and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel. Rub it well with salt. Make a dressing of one cup of stale bread crumbs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper ; mix well and stuff the body of the fish and sew it up with soft yarn. Now score one side of the fish with a sharp knife, making the scores about an inch apart, and put a strip of salt pork in each gash. Grease a tin sheet, if you have one, place it in the bottom of a baking- pan, put the fish on it, dredge thickly with salt, pepper and flour ; cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water and put into a hot oven. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound of fish, basting each ten minutes with the gravy in the pan. As the water evaporates add more to again cover the bottom of the pan. When done, lift the tin sheet from the pan and slide the fish carefully into the centre of the dish on which it is to be served ; garnish with slices of lemon, fried potato balls and parsley ; serve with sauce Hollandaise or roe sauce. If you have no tin sheet, place the fish in the bottom of a baking-pan and when done loosen it carefully and slide it into the dish. Rock fish may be baked in exactly the same manner. FISH 47 PLANKED SHAD This is the very best way of cooking shad : The plank should be three inches thick, two feet long, one and a half feet wide and of well-seasoned hickory or oak. Pine or soft wood gives the fish a woody taste. Take a fine shad just from the water, scale, split it down the back, clean it, wash well and immediately wipe dry. Dredge it with salt and pepper. Place the plank before a clear fire to get VERY HOT. Then spread the shad open and nail it, skin side next to the hot plank, with four large-headed tacks. Put it before the fire with the large end down ; in a few minutes turn the board so that the other end will be down, and do this every few minutes until the fish is done. To tell when it is done pierce it with a fork ; if the flesh be flaky it is done. Spread with butter and serve on the plank or draw the tacks carefully and slide the shad on to a hot dish. The whitefish caught in the lakes are excellent when cooked in this manner. HOW TO CURE AND SMOKE SHAD ETC. Scale, cut the fish up the back, clean, and take out the roe. Wipe the fish with a damp cloth but do not wash them. To twenty pounds of fish allow one pint of salt, one pint brown sugar and one ounce of saltpetre. Mix these all well together. Rub the fish well inside and out with this mixture. Put one fish over the other with a board on top, and on this place heavy weights to press them down. Allow them to remain so for sixty hours, then drain them, wipe dry, stretch open and fasten with small pieces of stick. Smoke them for five days in a smoke-house or in a box, or some such place, over a smothered wood fire. Whitefish, salmon and other large fish may be smoked in the same way. 48 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK CODFISH BALLS 2 cups of picked codfish (salt) i tablespoon ful of butter 2 cups of mashed potatoes y cup of cream ^ of a teaspoonful of pepper Pick the codfish into small pieces ; soak it in cold water for half an hour ; then drain and pour over it enough boiling water to cover ; let it stand on back part of the fire for fifteen minutes. Drain and press out all the water, then mix it with the potatoes, which should be well beaten, add all the other ingredients, beat well. Form into balls, roll first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat or oil. STEWED SALT CODFISH 1 cup of picked codfish i quart of milk 2 medium-sized potatoes ^ cup of bread crumbs Butter the size of an egg Salt and pepper to taste Cover the codfish with cold water and soak two hours. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice, put them in a stewing- pan, cover them with boiling water and boil until tender ; drain, add to them the milkf the butter and the bread crumbs. Drain the fish and scald it, and drain again ; add it to the other ingredients, let it boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve very hot. SALT CODFISH WITH CREAM SAUCE 2 cups of picked codfish i large tablespoonful of 1 pint of milk butter 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour Yolk of one egg Salt and pepper to taste Cover the codfish with cold water and let it soak two hours ; drain, cover with lukewarm water and stand it on the back part of the fire, where it will not get scalding hot, for one hour more. Then drain it free from all water. Put the butter in a frying-pan ; when melted, add the flour and mix ; FISH 49 then add the milk, stir constantly until it boils, add the fish, salt and pepper and stir until hot. Take from the fire, add the yolk of the egg and serve immediately with plain boiled potatoes. FISH a la REINE i pound of cold boiled fish Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of butter 3 chopped mushrooms i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of chopped YV pint of milk or cream parsley Salt and pepper to taste Pick the fish into small pieces. Put the butter in a frying- pan and, when melted, add the flour, mix, then add the milk and stir constantly until it boils. Add the fish, mush- rooms, salt and pepper and stand the frying-pan over the tea-kettle until the fish is thoroughly heated. Now beat the yolk of the egg lightly, add it and the parsley, mix all carefully together and serve at once in paper cases or shells. CUSK a la CREME i pint of pieces of cold^ i bay leaf cooked fish i sprig of parsley Yolks of two eggs i small piece of onion i pint of milk i tablespoonful of butter i blade of mace 2 tablespoon fuls of flour Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add to it the mace, onion, parsley and the bay leaf. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling, cook two minutes, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, take from the fire and strain. Add salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking- dish, then a layer of the fish, then another layer of the sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce. Sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs and put in the oven until a nice brown. Serve in the same dish. This may also be served in individual dishes. 50 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK DEVILED HALIBUT This is made the same as deviled crabs, using one pound of cold boiled halibut instead of one dozen crabs. Serve in clam or scallop shells. SALMON CROQUETTES i pound or one can of cold Juice of half a lemon boiled salmon A little cayenne i teaspoon ful of salt i cup of cream i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter parsley 3 tablespoon fuls of flour Chop the salmon fine and add to it the salt, parsley, lemon juice and cayenne. Mix thoroughly. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth and then stir them into the boiling cream. Stir and cook two minutes; season it lightly. Now stir this into the salmon; mix well and turn out on a dish to cool. When cool, form into cork-shaped croquettes; roll first in beaten egg, then bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin, garnish with parsley. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES 2 shad roes i teaspoonful of lemon juice y& pint of cream i large tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs 2 large tablespoonfuls of flour } of a grated nutmeg i tablespoonful of chopped parsley Salt, cayenne and black pepper Wash the shad roes, put them in a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and simmer slowly fifteen minutes. Then take them out, remove the skin and mash them. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the boiling cream and stir until it is very thick ; add the yolks, take from the fire and add all the other ingredients, mix well and turn out on a dish FISH 51 to cool. When cold form into croquettes, either pyramids or rolls, dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve with sauce Hollandaise. STEWED CARP Scale the fish, cut off the head, tail and fins. Mix one tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper and a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace together, and rub the carp inside and out with it. Stand it in a cold place for one and a half hours. Then put it into a kettle, as for boiled fish, and cover it with boiling water ; add one small onion, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf and one teaspoon- ful of sweet marjoram; let this simmer ten minutes to every pound. When done, dish and serve with cream sauce. PICKLED SALMON A ten -pound salmon i small red pepper 2 quarts of good cider vinegar 1 2 pepper-corns 4 blades of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of whole 12 whole cloves mustard 1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 2 bay leaves *^ pint of boiling water Clean the salmon and wash it well in cold water. Put it into a kettle, cover it with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of salt and boil fifteen minutes to every pound. If you have to cut your fish, boil only ten minutes to every pound. When done, drain, wipe dry and stand in a cold place over night. In the morning take off the skin and cut the flesh into nice convenient pieces. Put the vinegar and all the other ingredients into a porcelain kettle and bring them to a boil. Now drop the salmon carefully into this and let all boil up once. Rinse six or seven air-tight glass jars with hot water, carefully take the salmon from the kettle with a spoon, drop it rapidly into a jar, until it will 52 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK hold no more ; now fill with the boiling liquor to the very brim, screw on the top and stand to one side. Proceed in this manner until all the jars are filled. Then wipe them off; see that they are all screwed up well. Stand in a cool, dark, dry place and it will keep good for a year. PICKLED HALIBUT Proceed in the same manner as for pickled salmon, using ten pounds of halibut in one piece, instead of the salmon. STURGEON PICKLED STURGEON 6 pounds of sturgeon 3 blades of mace \y 2 quarts of good cider i tablespoonful of mustard vinegar seed 1 onion 12 pepper-corns 2 bay leaves i small red pepper 1 2 whole cloves i tablespoonful of loaf sugar Skin the fish and let it soak in cold water for half an hour. Then put it in a kettle, cover it with boiling water and parboil fifteen minutes to remove the oily taste. Now drain and stand it in a cold place until the next day, then finish same as pickled salmon. STEWED STURGEON Cut two pounds of the fish into pieces about two inches square, put them into a stewing-pan and cover with boil- ing water. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes to extract the strong oily flavor. Now drain off the water, add one tablespoonful of butter, then salt and pepper; cover the saucepan and stew until tender, about twenty minutes. Then add half a pint of milk. Moisten one tablespoonful of flour with a little cold water, mix until smooth, then add it to the sturgeon to thicken the gravy, boil up and serve hot. FISH 53 BROILED STURGEON Take two pounds of sturgeon steaks, wash well, skin and parboil fifteen minutes ; drain and wipe dry ; dredge with salt and pepper and broil over a clear, mild fire. Pour over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, serve on a hot dish and garnish with parsley and lemon cut into quarters, or they may be spread with maitre d' hotel sauce. BAKED STURGEON Take a piece of sturgeon weighing six pounds, wash it well, skin it and parboil for twenty minutes. Put a quarter of a pound of bacon in the bottom of a baking-pan, place the sturgeon on top of it, add a little water to keep it from burning and bake one hour, basting every ten minutes. Serve with drawn butter. EELS STEWED EELS 6 nice eels i bay leaf i pint of veal or fish stock i small onion 1 tablespoonful of butter i sprig of parsley 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste Skin and clean the eels, cut off their heads and then cut them into pieces about two inches long; put them into a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of vinegar and simmer for ten minutes ; then drain them. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add to it the flour, mix well and add all the other ingredients ; stir constantly until it boils; then put the eels into this sauce and stew for half an hour. When done, dish the eels, strain the sauce over them and garnish with sippets fried in butter. 54 .PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRIED EELS Skin and clean the eels. Cut them into pieces about three inches long ; put them in a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add one tablespoonful of vinegar to every six eels; simmer five minutes. Drain and dry them with a towel. Beat an egg lightly, add to it a tablespoonful of boiling- water, season with salt and pepper, dip the eels first in this and then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling oil or fat until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare. FROGS FRIED FROGS The hind legs of frogs are the only part used as food. They are usually sold skinned in the markets ; but if you get them out of town, they must be skinned and thrown into boiling water for five minutes ; take out and put them in cold water until cold, then wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry a nice brown in butter. Serve with fried parsley around them, or with cream sauce. STEWED FROGS i dozen frogs y,, pint of stock i tablespoonful of butter Yolk of one egg i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Prepare the frogs same as for frying. Put the butter in a frying-pan ; when brown add the flour, mix until smooth, add the stock and, when it boils, throw in the frogs and simmer ten minutes ; add salt and pepper, take from the fire, add the beaten yolk and serve at once. FISH 55 LOBSTERS Never buy a dead lobster. Choose the smaller ones that are heavy for their size ; the larger ones are coarse and tough. They should be perfectly fresh and very lively. The male lobster is preferred for eating and the female for sauces and soups. The female has a broader tail and less claws than the male. If possible, always boil the lobster at home ; but in some localities, where it is a necessity to buy them boiled, see that the tail is stiff and elastic, so that when you bend it out, it springs back immediately ; other- wise they were dead before boiling. Lobsters boiled when dead are watery and soft ; they are very unwholesome, even to a dangerous degree. TO BOIL AND OPEN A LOBSTER Fill a kettle with warm water (not boiling), put in the lob- ster head downward, add a tablespoonful of salt, cover the kettle and stand it over a very quick fire. They suffer less by being put into warm than in boiling water. In the latter they are killed by heat, in warm water they are smothered. A medium-sized lobster should boil half an hour ; a larger one three-quarters. Cooking them too long makes them tough, and the meat will stick to the shell. When done and cool, separate the tail from the body and twist off all the claws ; shake out carefully the torn-alley (this is the liver of the lobster and may be known by its greenish color) ; also the coral. Then draw the body from the shell, remove the stomach (sometimes called the lady), which is found immediately under the head, and throw this away. Now split the body through the centre and pick the meat from the cells. Cut the under side of the tail shell, loosen the meat and take it out in one solid piece. Now split the meat of the tail open and you will uncover a little vein running its entire 5(5 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK length, this remove. The vein is not always the same color; sometimes it is red, sometimes black and sometimes white; but in all cases it must be carefully taken out and thrown away. The stomach or lady, the vein and the spongy fingers between the body and shell, are the only parts not eatable. Crack the claws and take out the meat. To serve plain boiled lobster, arrange the meat thus taken out in the centre of a cold dish, garnishing with the claws, sprigs of fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters and pickled beets cut into fancy shapes. Let each person season to suit one's self. LOBSTER FARCI 2 cups of boiled lobster Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoon fuls of bread crumbs y 2 pint of milk i even tablespoonful of flour i^ nutmeg, grated Salt and cayenne to taste. Cut the lobster into small pieces. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling ; stir until smooth, take from the fire, add the bread crumbs, parsley, lobster, hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, salt and cayenne; mix all well together. Be careful when opening the lobster not to break the body or tail shells. Wash the shells and wipe them dry, and with a sharp knife or scissors cut off the under part of the shell. Now join the large ends of the two tail shells to the body, forming a boat. Put the farce into these shells, brush it over the top with beaten egg, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs and place in a quick oven for fifteen minutes to brown. Serve hot in the shells garnished with parsley. FISH 57 LOBSTER CHOPS 2 cups of boiled lobster i cup of cream or milk 3 tablespoon fuls of flour i tablespoon ful of butter i tablespoonful of chopped ^ of a nutmeg parsley Yolks of two eggs Salt and cayenne to taste Add all the seasoning to the lobster. Put the cream or milk on to boil, rub the butter and flour together, and add to the cream or milk when boiling. Now add the beaten yolks and cook two minutes. Take from the fire and add the lobster. Mix well ; turn out on a dish to cool. When cool, form into chops, roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs ; put them in a frying-basket and fry in boiling oil or dripping until a nice brown. It will take about two minutes. Drain, and arrange them on a hot dish ; put the end of a small claw in each chop to represent the mutton bone. Garnish with parsley, and serve with cream or Tartare sauce. DEVILED LOBSTER Deviled lobster is made the same as deviled crabs, using two cups of boiled lobster cut fine, instead of the dozen crabs. Serve in the lobster shells. This will require two small lobsters. SCALLOPED LOBSTER 6 pounds of lobster, live weight YI pint of milk i large tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of chopped parsley ^ cup of stale bread crumbs Salt and cayenne to taste Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling. Boil the lobsters, 58 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK open as directed and cut the meat into dice. Put a layer of the white sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of lobster, season with salt and cayenne, then a sprink- ling of parsley and bread crumbs, then another layer of white sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce, sprinkled over with bread crumbs. Put in a quick oven fifteen minutes to brown. Serve in the dish. LOBSTER WITH CECIL SAUCE Boil a three-pound lobster and open as directed. Cut the meat into pieces about one inch square. Put a tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying-pan, and, when melted, add one tablespoonful of flour ; mix until smooth, add one gill of cream, one gill of stock, and stir constantly until it boils ; add the lobster, salt and pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly, take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. This may be served in paper cases or individual dishes. LOBSTER WITH CREAM SAUCE i lobster (3 pounds, live weight) i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour ^ pint of milk 5 mushrooms Salt and pepper to taste Boil and open the lobster as directed. Cut it into dice. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the flour ; do not brown, but mix until smooth ; add the milk, stir constantly until it boils ; add the mushrooms chopped fine, salt, pepper and the lobster; stir until thoroughly heated. Serve in paper cases. CRABS Crabs, like lobsters, are sold alive, or boiled j they should be heavy for t'fteir size. FISH 59 TO BOIL CRABS Take one dozen heavy crabs and boil, the same as lobster, for three-quarters of an hour. When done and cold, twist off the claws, take off the upper shells and remove the spongy substance on the outside. See that the under part is free from sand. Arrange them nicely on a flat dish, gar- nish with parsley and serve with them oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, allowing each person to dress his own. DEVILED CRABS 12 nice, heavy crabs i tablespoonful of salt YZ pint of cream, i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of chopped Y of a nutmeg, grated parsley Yolks of four hard-boiled eggs Salt and cayenne to taste Put the crabs in warm water, add the salt and put the kettle over a brisk fire. Boil thirty minutes. Take up and drain ; break off all the claws, separate the shells, remove the spongy fingers, and the stomach, which is found under the head. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream on to boil ; rub the butter and flour together and add to the boiling milk ; stir and cook for two minutes. Take from the fire and add the crab meat, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, the parsley, the nutmeg, salt and cayenne. Clean the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the mixture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown ; or better, put them in a frying-basket and plunge into boiling fat or oil until a nice brown. SOFT SHELL CRABS The soft shell crab is nothing more than a hard shell crab after shedding its shell. In about three days the new shell begins to harden again, which is the cause of the always- short supply. 60 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK Lift the shell and remove the spongy substance on both sides ; then put your thumb nail under the point of the "apron" and pull it off. The " apron" is a small, loose shell, running to a point in the middle of the under shell. Now wipe the crabs dry; if they are at all sandy, wash them before removing anything. Do not blanch them, as it entirely destroys their fine flavor. Dip them, while alive, in beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs which have been well sea- soned with salt and cayenne. Fry in boiling oil or lard for ten minutes; when done, drain a moment on soft brown paper. Put sauce Tartare in the centre of a cold, flat dish; arrange the crabs around this, garnish with parsley and lemon cut into quarters, and serve. SOFT CRABS FRIED IN BUTTER Clean the crabs same as above. Dust them with salt, pep- per and flour. Put three tablespoon fuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when hot throw in the crabs; when brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. Serve as above. CRAW-FISH These are found in most of our brooks and rivers. They resemble the lobster, and are often called young lobsters. They are boiled and served the same as crabs, or used to garnish boiled fish. SHRIMPS Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the smallest. They are of two kinds, the Gulf shrimps or prawns being the largest. They are sold by the quart, already boiled, in some markets, but in the Northern cities the canned goods are convenient and very nice. Those put up by Dunbar & Co., and White, are the best. FISH 61 BOILED SHRIMPS Wash, and boil the same as crabs. When cold, twist the body and tail shells apart, carefully, so as not to break the meat, which remove in one piece. Serve same as crabs. SCALLOPS Scallops are always sold by measure, and only the muscular part of the fish is fit to use. TO FRY SCALLOPS Cover the scallops with boiling water and let them stand three minutes ; drain, and dry them with a towel ; season with salt and pepper, dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs," and fry in boiling fat or oil. STEWED SCALLOPS i pint of scallops i pint of milk i tablespoon ful of butter i tablespoon ful of flour Salt and pepper to taste Wash the scallops in cold water, then drain them. Put the milk on to boil. Rub 'the butter and flour together and add to the milk when boiling ; add the scallops, stir, and cook five minutes ; add salt and pepper, and serve. MUSSELS OR SOFT CLAMS Mussels are good during the winter months only. They should be of medium size, heavy, and perfectly fresh. Re- move the shells carefully ; wash the mussels and soak in cold water for ten or fifteen minutes, then drain. FRIED MUSSELS Mussels may be fried and served like oysters. 62 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK STEWED MUSSELS Wash ; and open the mussels until you have one quart. Then put them into a hot pan and stew for five minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, dust them with a table- spoonful of flour, add six whole pepper-corns and stew gently for ten minutes. Then add a half cupful of cream and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Take from the fire and season with pepper and salt. CLAMS There are two varieties of clams, the small sand or little necks, and the mud clams or quahaugs. The first are very much the best, and are in season almost the whole jear. FRIED CLAMS Clams may be fried the same as oysters. STEWED CLAMS Clams may be stewed the same as mussels, using fifty clams instead of one quart of mussels. TO ROAST CLAMS Wash them and put on a gridiron over the hot coals. When the shells open, remove the upper one, and serve in the under shell at once with a bit of butter and a little pepper on each. CLAM FRITTERS Clam fritters may be made the same as oyster fritters, using twenty-five clams instead of twenty-five oysters. PICKLED CLAMS Pickled clams are made precisely the same as pickled oysters, using fifty little-neck clams instead of fifty oysters. FISH 63 TERRAPIN Terrapins are always sold alive, and are in season from November to March. Diamond backs are the best, but are very expensive, costing from thirty to thirty-six dollars per dozen for cows. The males are small and of inferior flavor. The common red-legs or fresh-water terrapin are very good, and only cost about two or three dollars a dozen for the very best. STEWED TERRAPIN 2 terrapins ^ pound of butter y*, pint of thick cream i gill of sherry or Madeira 6 eggs ^ teaspoon ful of mace Salt and cayenne to taste Put the- terrapins alive into boiling water, and boil ten or fifteen minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and the toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil slowly until the shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is quite tender. When done take out, remove the under shell, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the upper shells ; carefully remove the sand bags, bladders, the thick heavy part of the intestines, and the gall sacks, which are found imbedded in one lobe of the liver, and throw them away. In removing the gall sack, be very careful not to break it, as it would spoil the whole terrapin. Break the terrapin into convenient-sized pieces, cut the small intes- tines into tiny pieces and add them to the meat ; now add the liver broken up, also all the eggs found in the terrapins. Now put it into a stewing-pan with the juice or liquor it has given out while being cut. Roll the butter in flour, add it to the terrapin, and stand on a very moderate fire until heated. Boil the six eggs for fifteen minutes, take out the yolks, mash to a smooth paste with two tablespoon- 61 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK fuls of the wine, then add this, the cream and seasoning to the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from fire, add the wine and serve. It must never be boiled after adding the wine. More or less wine may be added according to taste. OYSTERS 11 Blessed if I don't think that ven a man's iverry poor he ritshes out of his lodgings and eats oysters in regular desperation" PICKWICK PAPERS. Blue Points are nicest for serving raw, as they are small and fat and are considered the finest in the market. The Cape Shores, Maurice River Coves, and the Western Shores are all very good. They are in season from September until May and, like other shell-fish, are not good when dead. Dr. Kitchener says, "Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in the under shell ; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and spirit are lost." SERVED ON THE HALF SHELL Allow six oysters to each person. Wash the shells well ; open them carefully; take off the upper shell, detach the oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put six on an oyster or round plate, and serve with a piece of lemon in the centre of the dish. SERVED IN A BLOCK OF ICE Take a perfectly clear block of ice, weighing about ten pounds. Heat a flat-iron, and with it mark out the space to be melted, leaving a wall about an inch and a half thick. Reheat the iron and with it melt the ice in the centre of the block ; heat again, and continue the opera- FISH 65 tion until you have a perfectly square cavity, leaving the bottom and sides about one and a half inches thick. Empty all the water carefully out, fill the cavity with freshly-opened oysters. Fold a napkin and place it on a large flat dish ; stand the ice on this, and garnish the dish with smilax and nasturtium flowers ; here and 'there, among the smilax, lemon quarters may be placed. In large cities, ice moulds of different varieties are frozen to order and furnished by caterers. STEWED OYSTERS No. i 50 oysters i large tablespoon ful of flour i pint of milk i blade of mace i large tablespoonful of 6 whole allspice butter Salt and pepper to taste Drain the oysters, and put the liquor on to boil; as soon as it boils, skim all the white scum from the surface ; now add the milk, put back on the fire ; rub the butter and flour together and add to the milk as soon as it boils; stir until it begins to thicken, add the mace and allspice. Wash the oysters by pouring cold water over them in the colander, add these to the other ingredients and stir constantly until the oysters curl ; then add the salt and pepper. Do not allow them to boil, or the sauce will curdle, but be sure they are thoroughly heated, as nothing is , more objection- able than an uncooked oyster in a hot sauce. STEWED OYSTERS No. 2 (Mrs. Rogers, of Philadelphia) 50 oysters ^ cup of bread crumbs i pint of cream i pint of water i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste Drain the oysters in a colander, and wash by pouring cold water over them. Put the bread crumbs and water in a stewing-pan, and cook five minutes ; then add the oysters, and, when boiling hot, add the butter, cream, salt and pepper. Let the whole boil up once, and serve. 66 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS 25 oysters i large tablespoonful of butter i large tablespoonful of flour y