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WOF.KS BY THE SAME AUTHOR,

In large crown 8vo, price 7s. 6d., cloth gilt.

LOUDON'S AMATEUK GARDENER'S CALENDAR.

With numerous Original Illustrations.

' Thb Gabdbneb.' — "Amateur gardeners will Jind in this work one of the best books of
reference they could have near them at all seasons of the year."

LOUDON'S SUBURBAN HORTICULTURIST.

A New and Revised Edition.

THE PARKS, PROMENADES, AND GARDENS OF PARIS.
With 430 Illustrations.

•Thb Timbs,' Oct. 21. — "For a long time we have not read a more interesting and

iiistructice book than this."

ALPINE FLOWERS
FOR ENGLISH GARDENS.

An Attempt to Popularize in our Gardens the Choicest Gems of the Flora
of Alpine Countries.

With many II Instigations of every Type of Rock-garden.

In preparation,

THE GARDEN CYCLOP-SEJDIA.

This will be the most comprehensive and practical work ever attempted on
the subject. It will be on a new plan as regards general arrangement and
details, and will contain thousands of illustrations, showing every practical
point as well as highest result of each branch of the art. — W. R.

MOrTH OF MUSHROOM-CA^-E NEAR PARIS.

UOTTOM or SIIAIT 01' Ml SHKOOM-CAVE.

MUSHROOM CULTURE;

ITS

EXTENSION AND IMPEOVEIENT.

BY

W. ROBINSON, F.L.S.

author op

"thb pabks, pbomenades, and gaedens op PABIS,'*

"alpine flowers," etc.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

NEW EDITION.

LONDON:
FREDERICK WARNE AND CO.

BEDFORD STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
NEW YORK ; SCRIBNER, WELFORD AND ARMSTRONG.

1873.

LOITDOir :

tXyiJjL, BDWABDS AND CO., PEINTEEB, CHAND03 STEEBT,

COVSKI OABOSir.

PREFACE.

My reasons for writing this book arc : Firsts that Mush-
room Culture is but little practised in this country com-
pared to the extent to "which it ought to be^ consideriog
the abundance of the necessary materials in all parts of
these islands^ both in town and country, and the high
estimation in which the Mushroom is held. I now refer
to ordinary Mushroom Culture as practised in our best
private gardens. I believe it possible and desirable to
extend this, the only phase of the culture that can be
called popular, in a tenfold degree, and that every place
in which a gardener and horses are kept should be abun-
dantly supplied with Mushrooms throughout the greater
part of the year. Secondly, that although Mushroom
Culture as usually practised is perfectly well known to
good cultivators, a simpler and fuller account of it than
has yet appeared in any English book on the subject is
desirable for the unpractised amateur and cultivator.
Thirdly, that Mushroom Culture is at present confined
to a too nai'row groove ; and a belief that the general

VI PREFACE.

gardening public should have a broad and clear idea of
the several ways in which they may procure abundance
of excellent Mushrooms with very trifling expense. Even.
many of the best private growers never think of it except
as illustrated on their comparatively small beds in small
houses. I believe that if the knowledge of how easily
and in how many ways they may be grown^ apart from
the usual mode, were sufficiently spread^ it would lead to
the production of many times our present supply.
Fourthly, a desire to introduce to this and other
countries the system of Mushroom Culture on a very
large scale carried on in caverns beneath the environs of
Paris, which caverns I visited in 1868.

To these reasons I might add a wish to call attention to
the waste of money for Mushroom-spawn that now occurs
in nearly every garden. There is not the slightest ne-
cessity for this. In every garden where Mushrooms are
grown abundance of spawn may be made. Mr. W. P.
Ayk.ES writes lately to tell me that in a great midland
garden where the spawn bill used to amount to 18/.
or 19/. a year, by saving the spawn as the Parisian
growers do, all expense for this article is abolished.

I do not attempt to praise or even duly weigh the
merits of the Mushroom — that could only be adequately
done by the immortal Brillat-Savarin. He, however,
seems to have somewhat neglected this most precious of
legumes. None but his serious soul could have ap-

PREFACE. Vll

proached the subject with the necessary solemnity.
Nobody but he who first saw the deep dangers of
hurried^ thoughtless, and irreverent feeding, could have
done justice to its exquisite flavour when in the best
condition, or could have explained how deliciously it
combined the virtues of herb and flesh, unspeakably
superior to either. Let us, in passing, quote one of his
aphorisms, contributed to form the base eternelle a la
science : '^ La decouverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus
pour le bonheur du genre humain que la decouverte d'une
etoile r'

Now, I do not hesitate to say that the introduction
of the ^lushroom into our domestic economy in as great
a degree as we have it in our power to produce it,
would practically be the addition of a new agent in our
cuisine, second to none for its delicacy, and unsurpassed
for utility. It is true the Mushroom is plentiful in its
season, but it is with us, at all seasons when it is not
to be gathered in the open air, a luxury to numbers
of owners of gardens who have means to grow it. As
for the much larger class who ought to be supplied
from our markets, they seldom see or taste a Mushroom
except when these occur in profusion in our fields,
though every cart of stable-manure produced in this
great horse-keeping country may, on its way towards
decomposition and replenishing the earth, be made a
nidus for furnishing many dishes of them.

Vlll

PREFACE.

The illustrations showing the cave-culture of mush-
rooms are from my " Parks, Promenades,, and Gardens of
Paris /^ And the frontispiece is after two large cuts of
the mushroom caves of Paris, which appeared in the
Illustrated London JVeivs some time after the appearance
of my work. The illustrations of edible fungi are by
Mr. WoRTHiNGTON G. Smith, who knows and draws
these interesting subjects so thoroughly well; and the
other figures are by Mr. Hodgkin.

CONTENTS.

FAGB
WHEEE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GEOWN 1

CHAPTER I.

MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE 2

CHAPTER II.

THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS, ETC 13

CHAPTER III.

MUSHROOM-SPAWN 23

CHAPTER IV.

:5PAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT 33

CHAPTER V.

CULTURE IN SHEDS, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AND ALL
ENCLOSED STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSHROOM-
HOUSE 43

CHAPTER VI.

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS, NEAR PARIS 57

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

PAGE
CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR IN GARDENS

AND FIELDS . ' * 77

CHAPTER VIII.

CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC., WITH OTHER CROPS IN THE OPEN

AIR

84

CHAPTER IX.

MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC 88

CHAPTER X.
THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 95

CHAPTER XI.

MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 102

CHAPTER XII.

SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDIBLE FUNGI . . 108

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

WHERE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GROWN.

The places in wliicli muslirooms can be grown may be
roughly grouped as follows : — 1. In the mushroom-house
proper. 2. In sheds, cellars, out-houses, stables, rail-
way-arches, &c. 3. In deep caves, like those near Paris,
described further on. 4. In the open air, in gardens
or fields, on prepared beds. 5. In gardens, among various
crops, without any preparation beyond inserting the spawn.
6. In pastures where the mushroom is not already esta-
blished.

To these I might add another group, illustrated by the
case of a Belgian cook who grew a dish of mushrooms
in a pair of old wooden shoes ; but practically we can
treat of nearly every possible mode of growing the
mushroom under the above headings.

CHAPTER I.

MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE.

Culture in tlie mushroom-liouse being the most practised,
and, on the whole, the most important phase of the sub-
ject, we will first treat of it. And first of the mushroom-

Fig. 1. Mushroom -house at back of hothouses.

house itself. Its construction is very simple : the con-
ditions to be obtained are equable temperature, secured
by thick or hollow walls and by a double roof. Figure 1

THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE.

3

shows a house designed for me by Mr. Ormson_, the
well-known horticultural builder.

It is situated at the back of the hothouses^ where a
flow and return pipe can be run through for artificial
heat. The shelves for making the beds upon are of
slate IJ in. thick, or of stone 2 J in. thick, built into the
walls, and into brick piers built in cement. Upright
slates, to slide in grooves, are placed along the front of
the shelves to keep the beds in.

Fig. 2. Ground-plan of preceding.

The floor may be of paving tiles, or bricks, laid on
concrete : a skylight or two may be fixed in the roof, for
the purpose of admitting a little light, and air when
necessary. The engraving (fig. 2), shows a house of this
description, 12 feet wide by 20 feet long, inside measure,
but, of course, the length may be extended as circum-
stances may require.

B 2

4

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

As it is of importance in mushroom-growing that the air
of the house shoukl be kept moderately moist, the under-
side of a slate or tile roof should be lathed and plastered.

Fig. 3. View of unheated mushroom-house.

Figure 3 represents a mushroom-house suitable for
people of small means,, or those who cannot adopt plan
No. 1. It is designed with a view to growing mush-

Fig. 4. Section of preceding figure.

rooms during the greater part of the year, without
the aid of artificial heat. To this end it is constructed in
such a way as not to be affected by changes of the ex-

THE MUSIIROOM-IIOUSE.

ternal temperature, as will be seen by the engraving.
The walls are hollow, and banked round with the soil
exeavated from the interior. The roof is thatched with
reeds, and the ends stud-work, lined inside with boards,
and outside with split larch poles : the cavity to be filled
with sawdust or cut straw ; a small diamond-shaped ven-
tilator, hung on pivots, to be fixed in each end. The
floor may be of concrete, or burnt clay well rammed ;
and the beds are retained in their place by boards nailed
to good oak posts. Care should be taken to put in
efficient drains, so that no stagnant damp may exist
about the building.

-_i^'jj^-

Fig. 5. Secliou orniushrooin-lioiisc at Frogmore.
Though the preceding cuts show how we may best
attain our object, a few more illustrations of mushroom-

6 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

houses are desirable here. Figures 5 and 6 exhibit
the plan of the mushroom-houses at Frogmore, obligingly
communicated by Mr. Rose.

Fig. 6. Ground-plan of mushroom-house at Frogmore.

It need hardly be said that in such large mushroom-
houses rhubarb and sea-kale may be easily forced, and
barbe de capucin, endive, &c. blanched.

A small hot-water apparatus, with a 3-inch flow and
return pipe, afibrds the best means of heating a mush-
room-house which is not so situated that it may be heated
from the boilers of adjacent hothouses. The best position
for the mushroom-house is against a north wall. The
usual precautions for guarding against damp walls and
floor should be adopted in the case of the mushroom-
house, and the walls should be hollow.

Forsy th^s mushroom-house is described by the designer
in Loudon^s Gardener's Magazine, Fig. 7 is a trans-
verse section, showing the arches under and over the
beds, the thoroughfare a is the middle, and the position
of the hot-water pipes, c ; Z> is an open shed and general
workshop, the receptacle of everything requiring protec-
tion, and too clumsy to be otherwise housed.

THE MUSHR003I-H0USE. 7

A shed of this description is an indispensable adjunct
to every well-ordered garden^ and in the present case it
serves as a roof to the mushroom-house. In the centre
of each vault, shown in fig. 7, a circular ventilator, d,
9 in. in diameter, should be made, having a stone and cast-
iron stopper, with a folding ring. The whole roof of the

"^W

Fig. 7. Mushroom-house under shed.

mushroom-house is covered over with pavement, which
at the same time forms the floor of the shed above.
Mr. Forsy.h objects to cast-iron shelves " on account of
the rust, and to slate shelves, as being cold and damp,
and therefore not suitable to the purpose /' but he knows
of no obiection to shelves built of bricks and mortar,
kerbcd with hewn stone 3 in. wide, and clamped togcthci*
with lead

8

3IUSHR00M CULTURE.

The annexed diagrams (figs. 8 and 9) exhibit the
mushroom-houses used at Stoke Plaee, both for summer
and winter use, as described by Macintosh in the - Book

tem^^m^^C^<>m^^^#$^^^^

Fig. 8. Mushroom-house at Stoke Place.

of the Garden." "Of course the former is not heated-
the latter is, by 4. inch hot-water pipes, which are

Fig- 0.

brought from a boiler constructed to hit at the
same time a range of pits for pines, melore, &c,, 89
feet long and 7 feet wide. The shelves are close-

THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. 9

bottomed to prevent the beds from drying too rapidly,
and to require less watering, wliich Mr. Patrick thinks a
very important precaution in mushroom culture. Venti-
lation is effected by a slide in the door, and a wooden
trunk up through the arch and roof, with a slide in it
also. We do not exactly see the motive of Mr. Patrick,
whom we have long known and esteemed as one of the
best gardeners in England, in adopting the span roof
over this house, as, from its situation behind the garden
wall, a lean-to roof would have been cheaper and carried
off the rain-water better. It is rather a novel, but still
a good plan, to have the inner roof constructed of a
brick arch, as it will of coui'se save the outer one from
decay, to Avhich all mushroom-house roofs are liable
more than any other kind of garden building. This
house struck us at first sight as very complete, excepting
in breadth. We should increase it to 9 feet — that is,
3 feet for the breadth of the beds on each side, and
the same for the footpath, which at present is incon-
veniently narrow. ^^

The Russian mushroom-house (fig. 10) is thus de-
scribed by Mr. Oldacre, in the Horticultural Society's
Transactions, vol. ii. first scries. *' The outside walls
should be 8^ feet high for four heights of beds, and 6^ for
three heights, and 10 feet wide inside the walls. This is
the most convenient width, as it admits of shelves 3J feet
wide on each side, and affords a space through the middle

10

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

of the house 3 feet wide,, for a double flue and a walk
upon it/-' Hot-water pipes were not in use when this
house was erected. "The walls should be 9 inches
thickj and the length of the house as may be judged
necessary. When the outside of the house is built,
place a ceiling over it (as high as the top of the walls) of

Fig. 10. Eussian mushroom-house.

boards 1 inch thick, and plaster it on the upper side
with road sand well wrought together, 1 inch thick,
(this will be found superior to lime), leaving square
trunks, /, in the ceiling 9 inches in width, up the

THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. 11

middle of the house^ at 6 feet distanee from each other,
with slides^ s, under them, to admit and take off air
when necessary. This being done, erect two single-
brick walls, V Vj each five bricks high, at the distance of
S^ feet from the outside walls, to hold up the sides of
the lower beds_, a «, and form one side of the air-
flue, tutu, leaving 3 feet up the middle, t x t, oi
the house for the floor. Upon these walls, v v, lay
planks, / w, 4J inches wide and 3 inches thick, in which
to mortise the standards, t k, which support the shelves.
These standards should be 3J inches square, and placed
4 feet 6 inches asunder^ and fastened at the top to the
ceiling joists. When the standards are set up, fix the cross-
bearers, I n i n, that are to support the shelves, o o,
mortising one end of each into the standards, w, the other
into the walls, i. The first set of bearers should be 2 feet
from the floor, and each succeeding set 2 feet from that
below it. Having thus fixed the uprights, / ^, and bearers,
i w, at such a height as the building will admit, proceed
to form the shelves, o o, with boards 1-J inches thick, ob-
serving to place a board, d d, S inches broad and 1
inch thick, in the front of each shelf, to support the front
of the beds. Fasten this board on the outside standards,
that the width of the beds may not be diminished.
The shelves being completed, the next thing to be done is
the construction of the flue {p in section), which should
commence at the end of the house next to the door, run

12 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

parallel to the shelves all the length of the house^ and
return back to the fireplace, where the chimney should
be built ; the sides of the flue inside to be of the height
of four bricks laid flatways, and 6 inches wide, which
will make the width of the flues 15 inches from out-
side to outside, and leave a cavity, t u, on each side
betwixt the flue and the walls that are under the shelves,
and one, x y, up the middle, betwixt the flues, 2 inches
wide, to admit the heat into the house from the sides of
the flues /^ The introduction of this form of house by
Mr. Oldacre has led to much improvement in our mush-
room culture. The first house of this kind erected in
England, was built at Shipley, near Derby, in the garden
of E. M. Mundy, Esq., by the father of Mr. W. P. Ayres,
whose name will be found frequently mentioned in this
work. There brick arches were formed for the shelves,
and though built more than half a century ago, the
house is still in good condition.

Although slate is generally used for the shelves, the
adoption of cast-iron gratings for this purpose is well
worth a trial, as by this means we may be enabled to
cut mushrooms from the under as well as the upper side
of the bed.

13

CHAPTER IT.

THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS^ ETC.

Before we deal witli the various ways of growing the
mushroom, we will speak of the preparation of the
material. As stable manure not only furnishes the
nutriment, but forms the very soil in which muslirooms
are produced artificially, and also supplies the heat
which enables us to grow them to perfection at all
seasons, by far the most important point connected with
their culture is the management of this. It is very
simple, but frequently, even by excellent gardeners, con-
sidered to require much more trouble and nicety than is
really necessary. For example, it is quite common in
good gardens to see the droppings collected carefully in
some shed, or in the mushroom-house, and turned over
almost as tenderly and carefully as the contents of the
fruit-room. Good mushrooms are well worth this
trouble ; but, as it is quite unnecessary, it should not be
done except in special cases.

To show the diversity of opinion among excellent
mushroom-growers as to the preparation of the manure,

14 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

I will quote a few of our most trustworthy authorities
on the subject. Mr. W. Early, in " How to Grow
Mushrooms/^ lays great stress on the importance of
gathering the droppings in a dry state. " Every advan-
tage should be taken of opportunities of securing and
placing them in any open shed_, or other similar
position, where they can be effectually sheltered from
rains. In such a place, whilst the process of col-
lecting is going on, every portion should be spread
loosely over the floor, in moderate sized ridges, or in any
other manner that will allow the air to get amongst it to
assist in drying. It should also be tossed over or
tm'ned, and lightened up daily for the same purpose, until
a sufficiency is gathered together for immediate use.^'*

This may be taken as a sample of the practice very
extensively followed in this country. Happily, we have
excellent mushroom growers who succeed without
all this trouble, as the following remarks of Mr. J.
Barnes will show : — '' For the last thirty years I have
made my beds entirely on the floor in sheds, wheeling in
the stable dung as it is brought fresh from the stable^
adding a fourth, or a little more than a fourth, of
good friable loam, mixing both well together, pressing
firmly down, and letting it remain about a week or so
untouched. At the end of that time we turn it over,
and if we consider it in too strong a state of fermenta-
tion we add a little more soil, and then tread down

THE PREPARATION OP THE MATERIALS. 15

firmly. Very soon the bed is ready to be spawned, and
encased in a couple of inches of soil; and in this way
"we get the finest crops of mushrooms, the beds remaining
a long time in bearing. After the beds have been some
time, say from six to twelve weeks, in bearing, and begin
to get dry, and cease to bear well, vre water them
thoroughly with very clear liquid manure, made from
sheep or deer or cow manure, which seems to start them
again into bearing, and then we manage to keep some of
the beds in bearing for many months at a time.^^ In the
Field, Dec. 22, 1868, I stated that the manure for the
mushroom-beds in the Royal Gardens, Frogmore, was not
prepared in any elaborate way, but simply taken from a
great heap fermenting in the yard, any parts of it that
had become white from heat being moistened with water,
and the whole being mixed with about a fourth part of
loam. !Mr. Cuthill, an authority on mushroom culture,
tells us how the London market gardeners manage with
their manure. As the material is brought home from
the London stables, the short part is taken out of it,
and the long litter is kept for the purpose of cover-
ing, as well as for forming the interior of ridges ; for all
mushroom -beds out of doors are made into ridges. The
manure is not allowed to heat before it is put into the
beds, if that can be prevented ; for previously heated
material does not produce such fine mushrooms. The
fresher the horse-dung is, the longer the crop will last ;

16 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

and every gardener who makes up beds with unhealed
droppings knows how superior they are to fermented
manure.

In his own practice Mr. C. depended a good deal on
heavy tramping to " keep down fermentation^'' when drop-
pings were used in a fresh state. The French^ who are
great mushroom growers^ allow the manure to heat first,
but treat it very simply. They prepare it in the open air,
first removing any pieces of wood or other extraneous
matter that may have been mixed with it, and then place
it long and short in beds two feet thick, or a little more,
pressing it with the fork. When this is done, the mass
or bed is well stamped, then thoroughly watered, and
finally again pressed down by stamping. It is left in
this state for eight or ten days, by which time it has
begun to ferment, after which the bed ought to be well
turned over and re-made on the same place, care being
taken to place the manure that was near the sides at
first towards the centre in the turning and re-making.
The mass is now left for another ten days or so, at the
end of which time the manure is about in proper condi-
tion for making the beds, either in the open air or in
the caves. Sometimes it receives three turnings over,
especially when the manure is long, and it occupies
altogether about six weeks in preparation. As the
wide heaps are turned over by the men, a water-cart
remains alongside, and any portions of the mass that are

THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS. 17

dry and white from heat are moistened with water from
a rose watering pot. This preparation shortens and
mollifies the longer material considerably^ mixes the mass
well^ and it is transferred to the caves in a slightly de-
composed, well mixed, and moist, but not wet, condition.
The French do not actually hammer or desperately tramp
down the beds, as nearly all our writers on mushroom
culture recommend, but press it pretty firmly ; and I
have seen as good crops on their light spongy beds as
ever I have on those so firmly tramped down. I might
give other striking instances of the diversity of opinion
on this subject, but it is needless to multiply them.

My conclusions respecting the preparationof the manure
for mushrooms are as follows : — 1 . That very careful prepa-
ration and frequent turning over of the manure undercover
are not necessary to success, and that it is quite needless
to prepare the manure under cover, except when it is
gathered in a very small quantity, so that a heavy rain
or snow Avould saturate it. AVhere, however, the culture
is pursued on a very small scale, and, it may be, only one
bed made, it is best to keep it in a covered shed. 2.
That carefully picked droppings are not essential, though
they may be more convenient. Excellent crops are
gathered from beds made with ordinary stable manure,
droppings and long materials mixed as they come ; but
when the manure is used as it comes from the stable, it
should be allowed to ferment before being used. 3. That

c

18 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

the best vraj of preparing manure for the general eulture
of mushrooms indoors^ is to gather it in some firm spot,
and allow it to lose its fierce heat. As it is usually-
gathered in an irregular "way, precise directions as to
turning over cannot well be given ; but I am convinced that
one turning will sufiice when it has arrived at a strong-
heat, and then it should be thrown together for a week
or so, when, in being disturbed and removed to make the
bed or beds, its strong heat will be sufficiently subdued.
Where large quantities of stable manure are in a fer-
menting state, there should be little difficulty in selecting
material to form a bed at any time. Should it have spent
its heat overmuch, it would be easy to revive it with some
fresh droppings. 4. That stable manure may be used when
fresh, but it should be always mixed with more than
a fourth of good loamy soil. If this be kept under cover,
or stacked so that it may be had in a rather dry condi-
tion, so much the better, especially if the fresh manure,
&c., should be over moist. Beds thus made are most
suited for cool sheds and the open gardens. 5. That a
portion, say nearly one -fifth to one-third, of good and
rather dry loam may always be advantageously mixed with
the stable manure ; the fresher the materials, the more
loam should be used. In all cases it helps to solidify
the bed, and it is probable that the addition of the loam
adds to the fertility and duration of the bed. 6. That
a thickness of from one foot to fifteen inches for the beds

THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS. 19

in an artificially heated house is quite sufficient. Eighteen
inches will not be too much for beds made in sheds,
though I have seen excellent crops on beds only a foot
thick, in common sheds Tvith leaky sides. All beds made
indoors should be flat and flrmly beaten down, though the
absence of firmness is not, as some think, sufficient to
account for want of success.

I will now quote a few words from Mr. Ayres on.
other materials for forming mushroom-beds than stable
manure. He has given this, like almost every important
subject in the range of horticulture, some attention.
First among these may be mentioned sawdust which has
been used for bedding horses or for riding-school tracks.
Such a substance, thoroughly impregnated with urine
and mixed with horse-droppings, forms an excellent
material for mushroom-beds, especially if mixed with one-
fourth of good fibrous loam. Such materials mixed and
fermented together, and thrown into a bed a foot or
eighteen inches in thickness, according to the temperature
of the shed in which the bed is made, will be found to
form capital material for growing this esculent, especially
as it retains the heat for a long time. The worst of it
is that the material is almost valueless after it has served
the first purpose ; and used as dung upon light land is
rather injurious than otherwise. Then you may use leaves
and loam, in the proportion of one part of the latter,
in a turfy state, to four or five of fermenting leaves.

c 2

20 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

These may be recently gathered from the trees^ and
should be allowed to attain a brisk heat before the loam
is added,, and then^, after sweating for a week or ten days,
may be turned^ mixing the materials intimately together,
and then the mass may be formed into a bed. A mushroom^
bed of this kind should not be less than fifteen inches in
thickness when thoroughly consolidated ; and when so
managed it will grow mushrooms just as well as dung.
The sweepings of our streets and cattle markets, especially
those parts that are paved and much frequented by horses
— as, for example, cabstands, &c. — if collected when dry,
and fermented a little, yield capital material for beds.
Here from the cattle market we have the dung of horses,
sheep, and cows mixed together in a finely divided state,
the heating of which is gentle and regular. Material of
this kind procured on dry days, thrown together to
ferment once or twice, and then made into well-consoli-
dated beds, will produce mushrooms of the finest quality,
and continue in bearing a very long time. It is of the first
importance that this material be collected in a dry state,
as of course the slush of the streets would not do at all.
Equal proportions of street sweepings and fresh leaves,
properly fermented and mixed with loam, would perhaps
make as good material for growing mushrooms as need be
obtained. Of course the sweepings from those parts of
the town most frequented by horses will be the best for
the purpose I am writing about.

THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS. 21

The idea of mushrooms ceasing to be prolific from the
exhaustion of the active manure in the bed_, I have
mooted before. Lately several experiments have been
tried which convince me that by taking three portions of
recently-gathered leaves to one of turfy loam, and working
them well together until the mass attains the desired
temperature, sprinkling it, as the work of turning proceeds,
with liquid direct from the stables, and forming this into a
bed treated in the usual manner, it will give just as good
mushrooms as the best horse manure in the world. It
is the ammonia that is wanted for this crop, with a gentle
heat. Secure these two things, and, with ordinary care,
success is certain.

Eefore making the beds, while the material is in pre-
paration, all particles of old wood, twigs, &c., that are
found in the manure should be removed, as indeed should
any extraneous matters likely to prove offensive or useless.

The best time for making mushroom-beds, where they
are not regularly made in succession throughout the
autumn and winter months, as they ought to be where
there is abundance of material and a good mushroom-
house, is in August and September, as in the early
autumn months the natural heat is sufficient to cause the
spawn to germinate freely, and, beds made then ought to
bear freely before and up to Christmas, and during
autumn.

When making the bed, the chief object to bear iu

22 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

mind is the equal placing of the material. It should
be well mixed and regularly and firmly placed so that
the whole may be of a similar texture. Some heavily
tramp and pound their beds to secure firmness; moderately
done this is beneficial ; thoroughly equable pressure with
the fork^ when the fork can be used^, will with the pressure
of firm earthing be sufficient ; when beds are made on
elevated benches in boxes^ and in all positions where but
a slight body of material is used, and where firmness can-
not result from the general pressure of the mass_, some
kind of pressure with a wooden mallet or the like must
be employed.

The beds once made,, we next arrive at the spawning,
and will first inquire^ What is spawn ?

23

CHAPTER III.

MUSHROOM-SPAWN.

The first thing we have to determine is, What is spawn ?
Generally^ the spawn, or what in scientific language is
called the myceUunij is supposed to be analogous to seed,
while it really is what may be termed the vegetation of
the plant, or something analogous to roots, stems, and
leaves of ordinary plants, the visible part or stem, head
and gills, of the mushroom being, in fact, the fructifica-
tion, though in such an apparent preponderance to the
other parts. A knowledge of the anatomy and life-
history of the mushroom is not necessary to the cul-
tivator, and is not familiar even to those who make of
mushrooms a study. We know that the gills arc
simply surfaces on which germs or spores are produced.
The membrane that covers the spore plates of a single
mushroom would cover a large space if spread out, and
the spores are counted by myriads. AVe can see them
clearly enough under the microscope — can sec in what
manner they are borne on and fixed to the gills ; but of
the history of their lives, from the time they fall from the

24 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

surfaces on which they were bom, till the ^' youDg mush-
room^^ or inflorescence is vigorously pushing up from
the mass of delicate vegetation which they have given
rise to in earth or decaying manure, we know nothing.
How^ever, the preparation of the spawn, and the sub-
sequent management of it in the mushroom-bed, are the
matters which really concern us.

How is spawn obtained in the first instance ? It is
found in a natural state in half-decomposed manure-
heaps, in places where horse-droppings have accumulated
and been kept dry, in riding-schools, sheds to which
horses have long had access, in ''mill tracks^"* under cover,
in pastures, in partially decayed hotbeds, &c., and rarely
or never in very moist or saturated materials. This
spawn, sometimes termed "' natural'"' in this country, and
called by the French " virgin spawn,^^ is the best that can
be obtained, and should be used in preference wherever
it can be found. To use it, all that has to be done is to
divide the material permeated by the white spawn into
pieces a fcAV inches square, and say an inch or more
thick. They will of course break up irregularly, but all
should be used, whether of the size of a bean, or nearly
that of the open hand. Then they are inserted into the
surface of the mushroom-beds in the ordinary way.

In nearly every country place, and in numerous
suburban ones, in fact, in most places where horses are
kept, opportunities of finding this spawn occur. Its

MUSHROOM-SPAWN. 25

white, filamentous, and downy threads have the odour of
mushrooms,, and the spawn is, therefore, very easily re-
cognised. It should be generally known that it need
not be used when found, but may be dried, and kept for
use in a dry place for years, and has been known to keep
as long as fourteen years. It must not be supposed that
it is only the hard bricks described further on that keep
thus. The French spawn is in much looser and lighter
material than that in which we usually find mycelium in a
natural state, and it keeps quite as long as ours. To
presence spawn found in a natural state, nothing more is
required than to take up carefully the parts of the
manure in which it is found, not breaking them up more
than may be necessary, and placing both large and small
pieces loosely in rough shallow hampers. These should be
placed in some dry airy loft or shed till thoroughly dry,
and afterwards kept in some perfectly dry place, packed
in rough boxes till wanted for use.

But inasmuch as in this country, at present, but little
mushroom-spawn is required in any one place, the rule
is to obtain artificial spawn in the form of hard bricks.
This spawn is made from horse-droppings and some cow-
dung and road scrapings beaten up into a mortar-like con-
sistency in a shed, and then formed into bricks, slightly
differing in shape with difterent makers, but usually
thinner and wider than common building bricks. Various
recipes are given for mixing the materials for the bricks,

26

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

and among tliem the following are about the best : — 1.
Horse-droppings the chief part, cowdung a fourth, and
the remainder loam. 2. Fresh horse-droppings mixed
with short litter the greater part, cowdung one third,
and the rest mould or loam. 3. Horsedung, cowdung,
and loam in equal parts. These bricks are placed in
some dry, airy place, and when half dry, a little bit of
spawn about as big as a hazel nut, is placed in the
centre of each; or sometimes, when the bricks are as

Fig. 11. Brick mushroom-spawn.

wide as long, a particle is put near each corner, just in-
serted below the surface, and plastered over with the
composition of which the bricks are made. When the
bricks are nearly dry, they are placed on a hotbed about
a foot thick, in a shed or dry place. On this the bricks
are piled, or placed rather openly and loosely, and
covered over with litter, so that the heat may circulate
equably amongst them. The temperature should not
rise more than a degree or two above 60 degrees; if
it does, it may easily be modified by reducing or removing

MUSHROOM-SPAWN.

37

the covering of litter. The makers frequently examine
the bricks during the process^ and -when the spawn has
been found to spread throughout a brick like a fine
Tvhite mould_, it is removed^ and allowed to dry for
future use in a dark^ dry place. If allowed to go further
than the fine white mould stage^ and form threads and
tubercles in the bricks,, it has then attained to a higher
degree of development than is consistent with preserving
its vegetative powers, and therefore it should be removed
from the bed in the fine mould stage. This is the kind
of mushroom spawn mostly in use in our gardens, and it
is usually very hard in textui'c.

There is a kind of spawn usedinsome gardens called mill-
track mushroom-spawn, which is made in a more simple

Fig. 12. Mill-track mushroom-spawn.

manner than the preceding. It would seem to be simply
spawn that has spread through the thoroughly amalga-
mated droppings of a mill-track. The material is rather

28

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

soft and free in texture^ is usually sold in large and some-
what irregular lumps_, and is much used by some cultivators.
Finally, we have the French mushroom- spawn, which
differs from our own in not being in bricks or solid lumps,
but in rather light masses of scarcely half decomposed,
comparatively loose and dry litter. This spawn is ob-
tained b}^ preparing a little bed as if for mushrooms in
the ordinary way, and spawning it with morsels of virgin
spawn, if that is obtainable ; and then Avhen the spawn

Fig. 13. Parisian mushroom-spawn.

has spread through it, the bed is broken up and
used for spawning beds in the caves, or dried and pre-
served for sale. It is sold in small boxes, and is fit for
insertion when pulled in rather thin pieces, about half
the size of the open liand ; but in separating it, it divides
into many pieces, of all sizes, every particle of which
should be used. The small particles should be strewn
broadcast over the bed after the larger pieces have been

MUSHROOM-SPAWN. 29

inserted. This applies to the other kinds. In conse-
quence of the open porous nature of the French mushroom-
spawn_, it is likely to be immediately affected by the heat
and moisture of the genially warm manure forming the
mushroom-bed, and on that account alone presents some
advantages. It has recently been introduced for the
first time, and probably will soon be tested by many
growers.

Spawn, in the common sense of the word, may be
dispensed with by well amalgamating manure, loam, and
old mushroom-beds, or leaf-mould containing traces of
spawn, and these formed into beds about a foot thick in
the mushroom-house, and covered with earth, produce
without any further spawning ; but the plan is not so
simple or advantageous as that more commonly pursued.

There is no necessity for purchasing artificial spawn
at all where mushrooms are regularly grown. Nor
is there in any case except at the commencement, or
to guard against one's own spawn proving bad. To
secure good spawn, we have only to do as the French
growers do: take a portion of a bed where it is thoroughly
permeated by the spawn and before it begins to bear, and
preserve it for future use.

Of the efficacy of this sort of spawn, if any proof were
needed in addition to the fine crops tlic Parisian growers
gather, it will be found in the following statement from
Mr. Ayres : —

30 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

^^ A short time back^ attention was directed to the supe-
rior quality of French mushroom-spawn^ and as a natural
consequence several London seedsmen imported it for
sale. Some months back I obtained possession of a
stable, and_, wishing to grow mushrooms in it, procured
a few tons of horse manure, just as it came from the
dung-pit of the hotel stables. It was very wet, and con-
sequently when thrown together it heated violently.
However, by frequent turning for a week or ten days
this tendency was reduced, and then five beds were
formed of it, adding one-fourth of perfectly dry soil from
a cucumber-house. I say perfectly dry, because the soil
had lain in the house for fifteen or eighteen months
without receiving a drop of water, and therefore may
almost be considered as thoroughly dry. Intimately
mixed with the fermenting dung, it had the tendenc}^
that I desired — viz., subdued the excessive moisture, and,
after the bed had been made up a week, brought it to
the temperature necessary to receive the spawn.

^' Having great faith in the good qualities of fresh loam
from an old pasture for the production of mushrooms of
superior quality, I had a quantity dried and warmed.
I had a coat of this three inches thick laid over each bed,
and then forked carefully in, taking care to mix the soil
and dung as intimately as possible. Re-formed and left for
a few days the beds attained the necessary warmth ; then
they were made quite firm, and were ready for spawning.

MUSHROOM-SPAWN. 31

''For this purpose I had procured two boxes of the
French spawn from Messrs. Barr and Sugden, of Covent
Garden. It was lights loose, flaky^ chaffy stuff, and so dry
that I had some fear whether its vegetating power had
not been dried out of it. But the spawn had been bought
for experiment, and therefore the experiment must be
carried out.

" Baking about two inches of the material from the
surface of each bed, pieces of the flaky spawn were laid
down, at about ten inches or a foot apart, all over the
beds ; the fine portions of the spawn were then scattered
over the beds, patted down firmly with the back of a
spade, and then the surface material was returned, and
the whole made as firm as possible. In passing, it may
not be out of place to remark that spawning in this
manner must be guided, or rather governed, by the state
of the material of the bed. If it is not sufficiently cooled,
it will be safer to make holes in the usual manner for
the spawn ; but if in a fit state, then I think the
broadcast spawning and earthing, as before described, is
the best plan. The disturbed portion of the beds having
regained its heat, and there being no fear of its over-
heating, the beds were immediately earthed two inches
thick with fresh loam, beaten quite firm, and then covered
with a thin layer of dry hay.

" Not liking to entrust my chance of mushrooms en-
tirely to the new material, the French spawn, two beds

32 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

were spawned at the same time and in the same manner
with native spawn. Owing to the large size of the stable,
and the nnnsnally cold, piercing weather at the end of the
year (1869), the beds lost so much heat that I had some
misgivings whether they would not prove a failure ; but
finding, subsequently, that the spawn was working, I
gave each bed (the surface being rather dry) a good
syringing with water at the temperature of 80 deg.,
covered it with clean dry mats, and then returned the hay.
The beds are now a sheet of the '^pearl of the fields,^ some
of the patches as large as a cheese-plate, and the whole
in most promising condition — so promising that, with
proper attention, I have no doubt they will yield a good
supply of mushrooms for many months To secure
this continuous bearing, farmyard manure-water and
salt, at proper times, should not be spared ; while,
as soon as the flush of the first crop is over, the beds
may receive a thorough soaking of manure-water at a
temperature of not less than 80 deg., be re-earthed
with fresh soil, and covered down with mats and hay.
In this manner we always get a second crop little in-
ferior to the first one, and sometimes much superior/'

33

CHAPTER IV.

SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT.

Heat and Protection.

The temperature of the material of the beds should never,
at spa^\Tiing time, exceed 80 degrees Fahr. — about 70
is the most suitable regular temperature ; and that of
the mushroom-houso should range between 50 and 60
degrees — not lower than 50. Assuming the materials
to have been turned once after having heated, and again
disturbed previous to being made into beds, they ought
to be in a condition for spawning from ten to twelve
days after being put together. It need hardly be said
that this regularity of temperature can only be secured
in properly-formed mushroom-houses. "Where mush-
rooms are grown in these, T\dth double ceilings and close-
fitting shutters and doors, almost impervious to external
influences, and where fresh beds are made from time
to time, little or no artificial heat from jnpes is required,
though it is as well to have some at command in the
case of unusually severe weather, or a break in the suc-
cession of beds, which would cause a deficiency of heat
from fermenting materials. A covering of hay or dry

D

34 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

litter is necessary for beds formed in the open air^ and
also for beds made in cool^ lialf-open sheds ; bnt not for
those in regularly heated mnshroom-houses or caves^ in
which there is a still_, steady temperature. It should be
about a foot thick, and should be immediately removed
•when it becomes wet or mouldy. This covering should
be applied whenever the temperature of the bed begins
to fall. It should not be used in any case where the tem-
perature will permit of dispensing with it_, as it is trouble-
some, and sometimes encourages insects. The heat of a
bed may be reduced by opening holes six or eight inches
deep with a thick pointed dibber, here and there, but it
is only in exceptional cases that this is advisable, and it
is desirable to husband all the ammonia and heat of the
bed. The earthing over and firming of a bed has a ten-
dency to subdue the heat in it. Where large sloping
beds, say three feet deep at back, are made against the
wall, I have seen A-shaped crates put beneath them at
six feet apart, so as to permit of heating them by fresh
supplies of manure. It is, however, a plan possessing
little claim to general use. It is best not to depend on
the hand, as is commonly done, for ascertaining the
heat of the beds. Thermometers fixed on sticks of con-
venient size, to thrust in the beds, are sold, and remove
all excuse for vagueness in this matter. Coverings of
litter are sometimes useful in ^^ drawing-up the heat^^ in
a bed that has become somewhat chilled.

SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT. 35

Spawninf/.

This is the phase of the culture which requires most
attention, as to get the spa^vn to run regularly through
the bed is to be nearly certain of securing a good crop.
In this respect there do not seem to be so many differences
of opinion among mushroom growers. Some^ indeed,
spawn immediately after the bed is made up ; but, except
where the materials are such as will not heat to more
than 80 degrees, this is uncertain, or in other words bad,
practice.

The important thing should be to ascertain if the
spawn spreads through the bed properly. The usual
practice is to earth up the bed immediately or very soon
after it is spawned, and not a few take no further
notice of the bed or beds till the time arrives when the
mushrooms ought to appear. A better plan is not to
finally earth the bed until the spawn is seen beginning
to spread its white filaments through the mass ; and
should it fail to begin to do this in eight or ten days
after spawning — the conditions being favourable — it is
then better to insert fresh spawn or to re-make the bed,
addiug fresh materials if it be found to fail from being
too cold. If people generally were to see whether the
spawn had " taken'' freely, instead of waiting for many
weeks, not knowing whether it had or not, there would
be fewer disappointments in mushroom culture.

1) 2

36 MUSHllOOM CULTURE.

The ordinary spawn bricks should be broken into pieces,
say from about the size of walnuts to that of eggs ; they
do not break up into regular portions. Spawn in the more
natural form in which we take it from the old beds, and
in which it is used by the French, is ready to be inserted
into the bed without any further manipulation. I be-
lieve this kind of spawn spreads more rapidly through
the beds than our own brick spawn, and is, on the
whole, much more desirable. As it is usually very
dry it is a good plan to place some of it in the mush-
room-house a few days before spawning, so that it may
begin to absorb moisture. A dark place in a warm
house, or gentle hotbed, would do as well, but in no case
should it be done more than three days before spawn-
ing time. At spawning this might with advantage be
mixed with some that has not gone through this process.
A bushel of the ordinary brick spawn will suffice to
spawn about one hundred square feet. All spawn
should be inserted near the surface, just buried in the
materials of which the bed is made. The thin flakes of
spawn which the French use, and which arc usually
nearly the length and breadth of the open hand, are
gcncrallv inserted into the bed edgeways, or in a direction
slanting upwards, so that while one edge of the piece is
buried three or four inches in the bed, the other is seen
peepiuir through at the surface. Thus each flake of spawn
is exposed to a slight difference of temperature, and, being

SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT. 37

thin and spongy enough to be immediately impregnated
with the moist warmth of the beds, takes quickly
aud well. As to any particular mode of insertiug the
spawn, little need be said ; if the bed be beaten so
liard as many recommend, and which I do not believe to
be at all necessary, a dibber will be required to insert
the spawn ; if not, it may be readily inserted with a
trowel or with the hand. It is a good plan to use a
mixture of two kinds of spawn.

Soil.

As regards the kind of soil used in earthing, it is not
of nearly so much importance as is generally supposed;
almost any soil will do ; but those having heaps of good
maiden loam laid by for gardening purposes will prefer to
use a coating of that. I believe that any ordinary garden
soil would do, and feel certain that it is a mistake to
bestow the least trouble on procuring any particular kind
of soil from a distance. The beds in the caves around
Paris are covered over with a white putty-like substance,
which would be sufficient to shake the nerves of any
British mushroom-grower accustomed to his coatings of
mellow loam. It is simply the fine rubbish from the
stone breakage moistened, and smoothly and firmly
pressed over the beds. We, if shown this on a bed that
had failed, would assuredly attribute it to the " stuff"

38 3IUSHR00M CULTURE.

with wliicli the bed was covered,, thougli finer crops than

these little beds yield it would be impossible to find. I

notice this subject so that failures may be traced to

their true causes, and not attributed to matters which

really have but slight influence. The final covering of

from one to two inches of loam or other soil should not

be applied till the spawn has begun to spread through

the bed, but a very thin layer of dryish loam may be

placed on with advantage just after spawning has taken

place, as it will serve to make the surface of a more

equable temperature. It is a mistake to suppose that a

deep covering is of any advantage. The final earthing

should be of soil sufficiently moist or moistened to permit

of its being pressed into a firm surface. However, unless

it is exceptionally dry, a mere sprinkling of water will

suffice.

Watering,

As the materials of mushroom-beds are generally moist,
and as but little evaporation can take place in the
structures in which they are usually grown, water is rarely
necessary, and should not be applied until the surface of
bed and soil are really dry. It should then be given
copiously, enough to well moisten the bed, and it should
be soft water heated to a temperature of 80 degrees given
with a fine rose, and steadily and patiently applied equably
over the whole surface of the bed. Waterings that
merely wet the surface and saturate the crevices or

SPAWNING AND Al'TER-TREATMENT. 39

lower parts of the bed are of no use. If one drenching
is not sufiBcient to moisten the bed properly, another
should be given. The flat form of bed is of course much
more easily watered, and is on the whole the best for beds
under cover. The position of beds will have a great in-
fluence on the quantity of water they require, so that it is
almost impossible to give precise directions on this head; but
I can scarcely conceive a case in which it will be necessary
before six or eight weeks after the formation of a bed,
and I have seen fine crops gathered without a single water-
ing having been given. In watering old beds one ounce
of guano to the gallon of T\-ater will prove beneficial.

Vermin in Mushroom Beds.

Woodlice are the greatest pests the mushroom-grower
has to dispose of, and the most eff'ective way of getting
rid of them is by destroying them with boiling water.
The surface of the bed being firm and covered with
smooth firm soil, the only likely place to aff'ord these
creatures the interstices they usually retire into when
disturbed, or when not employed in eating the head of
every little mushroom that presents itself, is round the
edges of the bed, and in the slit which often occurs'
between the bed and wall or sides of the shelves that
support it. There they are likely to be found in great
numbers, and may be destroyed wholesale by pouring
boiling water all along the crack. If the beds be co-

40 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

vered with hay or litter^ it will be necessary to remove
this and allow them time to retreat into their hidinsj
places ; and if the beds are made in any position that
^Dermits of the woodlice hiding in other places than the
interstices round them^ these places should be sought
out^ marked^ and receive a searching dose of the scalding
water all at the same time. It need hardly be added
that_, as it is not mushrooms, but creatures that rival
ourselves in their love of mushrooms, that we wish to an-
nihilate, the scalding water must not in any case be
applied to the surface of the bed. If on the surface of
old or dry beds, or those from which a good many
mushi'ooms have been cut or pulled, there are any loose
hollows or crevices in which the woodlice can take shelter,
they should be sought out, cleared of vermin, levelled
up, and made firm, so that the enemy cannot take up a
position in which we cannot attack him. Should this
plan fail, half an ounce of sugar of lead, mixed with a
handful of oatmeal and laid in their tracks, will quickly
destroy the pests.

The small mite is most destructive in a high tempera-
ture, and in summer, Mr. Cuthill says, " the maggot^' will
not breed in a house where the temperature does not ex-
ceed sixty degrees, and it is in hot, dry, and half-neglected
houses that this pest is usually seen in summer. At
that season there is little need to grow mushrooms indoors,
and liow they may be produced otherwise in great abun-

SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT. 41

dance is explained furtlier on. The entrance of rats
should also be guarded against.

Mushroom-beds come into bearing about six weeks
from the time of spawning, and remain in bearing from
two to five months^ according to the position in which
they are made, and the attention paid to them.

Treatment of Old Beds.

Upon the continuous bearing qualities of a mushroom
bed a word may be said. It may savour of the ridiculous
to say that a plant growing upon a dung bed may fail
from the want of manure. Yet such is literally and
positively the fact. Beds become worn out, the produce
small and spindly, and we directly do away with them
and make fresh ones. Instead of doing this, give the
bed a thorough soaking of stable urine and water, at the
temperature of 80 degrees, using the urine in the propor-
tion of one part to five of soft water, and adding a wineglass-
ful of salt to each canful ; then coat the bed with fresh
soil, cover it down with mats so as to promote the heating,
and a second crop as good as the first may be obtained.
In this matter I speak from experience, and ^Ir. Ingram,
at Bel voir, has followed the same plan for many years
with the most satisfactory result.-

Gathering the Crop.
Gatherings should frequently take place, especially

42 IMUSHIlOO^r CULTURE.

where tlie culture is pursued on a large scale. Where
there are several beds in bearings the mushrooms should
be gathered every morning. In all cases they should
be pulled or twisted out, never cut out, so as to leave
decaying stumps in the beds. The holes made by
pulling out the mushrooms should be filled with a little
fine loam, of which a small heap may be kept in the
house for this purpose.

Cleansing the House.

A word as to the necessity of a thorough annual
cleansing of the mushroom-house. The fact that the
French cave-cultivators find it necessary to shift from
cave to cave, and find that after a cave has been in use
a certain time, mushrooms cease to be produced in it,
should act as a caution in this respect. In summer,
when there is no need to attempt the culture indoors,
the house should be thoroughly cleaned out, lime -whi ted,
every surface scraped and washed, and the house freely
opened, so as to thoroughly sweeten it.

43

CHAPTER Y.

CULTURE IN SHEDS_, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AXD
ALL ENCLOSED STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSH-
ROOM-HOUSE.

]NrusHROOMs may be, and are, grown to perfection in
many less ambitious structures than the mushroom-house
proper. Any species of outhouse will do for the autumn
and early winter crops. One of the best crops I have
ever seen was grown in a dry and unused coach-house.
Mr. Robert Fish grows all his crops in a long, low, rude
thatched shed, open in front — the beds flat, in a con-
tinuous line against a wall, and enclosed by a low board.
Mr. Cuthill, who wrote on mushrooms, and who used to
grow them very well, grew his in rude sheds placed
against walls. It matters not in the least if the shed
be open or ventilated here and there, especially for
autumn crops, as I have seen admirable crops in low
outhouses searched by every gust, and not heated by
flues. The beds in these should always be covered with
hay. Mushrooms may be grown in cellars ; but cellars
being commonly under houses, they are not exactly the

44 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

places to wMcli people like to convey the materials
necessary for the makinor of mushroom-beds. Where
they occur away from a dwelling-house, this objection
will not hold good. In some cases it might be ob-
viated by making the beds in rough boxes_, say 3^ ft.
long by 1| ft. wide, and afterwards introducing them
into the cellar. Railway or other arches, or any dry and
empty structures, may be used for mushroom- growing.

" The construction,^^ says Mr. William Ingram, of
Belvoir, in a letter to the Field, " of efiScient mushroom-
houses is sufficiently understood by most of our hothouse-
builders and by gardeners ; but the economical adapta-
tion of places which already exist is a matter which may
with the greatest advantage be discussed, as there are
hundreds of persons about whose establishments may be
found outhouses, cellars, quarries, or sheds, capable of
conversion into mushroom-houses, who would be very
glad to be taught the method of growing mushrooms,
and to have the simple principles that should govern the
construction of mushroom-houses explained.

" There are few large farmsteads that are without an
unconsidered place which could be readily adapted for
the purpose of growing mushrooms ; and farmers possess
the material at hand, horse manure, which would not
suffer great deterioration if employed in first raising a crop
of mushrooms. Country brewing establishments have
equal conveniences and opportunities. By relating the

CULTURE IN SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC. 45

means by "which I have been for several years able to
raise large quantities of excellent mushrooms, in a place
originally but ill adapted for the purpose, I may induce
some of those persons who desire the luxury of what
Sover called ^ the Pearl of the Fields/ to turn their
attention to the subject of their growth.

" I had a large, open, airy shed at command, but it
was liable to be affected by changes in the weather, and
was altogether too draughty and cold in winter, and too
hot in summer. I built within this shed, with rough fir
boards, an inner shed, 18 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and 8 ft.
in height ; two receptacles for beds were formed, one on
the floor, the other above it : and to give the requisite
heat in winter, I passed a flue, formed of 9-in. socket
pipes, through the house ; with this I can always command
an adequate amount of heat. The material of which
the beds are formed is chiefly droppings, collected from
an enclosed and covered exercise ground. These drop-
pings are trampled by the horses, and mixed with
straw broken up with the manure by the passage of the
horses.

" When first collected it is piled up in a large heap,
in a perfectly dry state, and when wanted for the bed is
thrown out, sprinkled with water, and fermented for
about a week ; while hot, it is taken to the house, and
as it is thrown in is mixed with a small quantity of soil
of a loamy character, and a barrow-load of leaf soil.

46 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

It is tlien pressed into as compact a mass as possible by
a rammer or mallet, building it np until it forms a bed
10 in. thick in front and 20 in. at tlie back. After a bed
formed of this description of materials has been thus
put together, rapid fermentation takes place ; and when
the most violent fermentative action has passed^ and a
temperature of 80° is found in the bed, spawn is put
into it by means of a dibber. I employ brick spawn
obtained from good makers, but, to vary and possibly
prolong the period of production, I introduce a certain
quantity of spaw^n saved from old beds. This is longer
in its development than the made spawn, and appears as
a subsidiary crop. After the bed is spawned^ a covering
of compact loamy soil is spread on the surface^ IJ- in. to
2 in. in thickness, and w^eli beaten upon it so as to form
a smooth and hard crust. A temperature ranging from
50° to 60° should be maintained in the house. A
lower temperature abstracts the heat from the bed more
rapidly.

'' When the mushrooms begin to exhibit weakness, as
after the bed has produced a certain quantity they will
do, from the exhaustion of the more stimulating portions
of the manure^ I find it an excellent practice to ad-
minister a sprinkling of water in which a handful of salt
has been thrown (that quantity of salt to a three-gallon
can). Saltpetre, though in much smaller quantities, is
equally valuable given in the same way. The practice

CULTURE IX SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC. 47

I have described relates to the "vvinter cultivation of
mushrooms/^

Many instances of perfect success like the preceding
could be quoted. Here is one from Mr. W. P. Ayres : —

'' You will be glad to hear that we have on the out-
skirts of this town (Nottingham) a grower of mushrooms
(Mr. Cookson, Mansfield Road) who vies with the French
growers,, especially if the means of growth be taken into
consideration. The place he occupies was formerly the
pleasure garden of a large hotel, where the proprietor
would occasionally, in the summer season, treat his
friends and patrons to an al fresco entertainment. For
this purpose a range of summer-houses was built, con-
sisting of brick arches, say 12 feet deep, 6 feet wide,
and a little more in height. Close adjoining is a small
sandstone-rock cellar, w^hich used to serve for drinkables
in the summer and potatoes in the winter.

" Some twelve months ago these premises and the house
adjoining fell into the occupation of a gardener, who,
though he had a licence to the house, fancied he might
turn the arches to a better purpose, and hence he de-
voted them to mushroom beds. As it was necessary that
the arches should be closed, a wall about three feet higli
was built in the rudest manner parallel with their front,
but six feet from it, and from, that a roof of rough
timber was thrown, and covered with asphalted felt.
Here, however, was a mistake ; for, the building stand-

48 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

ing due souths when the sun fell upon it the atmosphere
became rather ' tarry ^ — so much so that the mushrooms
refused to grow in it. That wore off after a time, and
from a bed not more than thirty yards square the tenant
told me he had cut more than 25/. worth of mushrooms.
When I saw the beds they might be considered spent,
the flush of early youth was over ; but still the crop was
most wonderful, especially considering the means at com-
mand.

" In the rock cellar the small beds were a pavement
of splendid mushrooms^ many of them as large over as a
cheese-plate, and thick in proportion. In the garden is
a barn — four walls with a roof over them, the latter so
rude that it was only in fair weather that it could be
called waterproof. In this place, which may be 25 ft.
long by 15 ft. wide, two tiers of beds have been put up,
the roof has been made waterproof, a common brick flue
put through it, and, at the time I saw them, more pro-
mising beds could not be desired. Here again, you will
perceive expensive appliances are not necessary for the
production of mushrooms. ^^

Stables and like structures off'er capital positions in
which successful mushroom culture may be carried out
with ease.

If it is possible, and we know it is not only possible
but easy, to grow mushrooms in boxes a few feet long and
a foot or eighteen inches wide, and the same depth, it is

CULTURE IN SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC.

49

clear that tlierc can be no difficulty about growing tliem
in abundance in such a manner as that shown in the
accompanying engraving. This mode was actually prac-
tised with great success by the Baron Joseph d^Hoogvorst^
of Limmel.

Fi;?. 14. Musliroom culture on shelves in stable.

The culture was carried out in neatly fitted-up wooden
boxes, so arranged that they might be shrouded with canvas
curtains as shown in the engraving, so tliat at first sight

£

50 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

one would not suppose that mushroom culture was
carried on there. No evil results as regards the
creation of an unhealthy atmosphere accompanied the
attempt. The beds were formed much in the usual way
from the droppings of highly fed horses. Now there can
be no doubt that a similar mode of growing mushrooms
could be carried out in the stables or some adjacent build-
ing in hundreds of places apart from the garden and the
gardener altogether. Given the materials and some
position^ however contracted^ in which to carry out the
culture^ and both these things are surely to be had almost
in every 'place where there is a stable^ the rest is so
simple that any stableman or boy could carry it out. We
know that these individuals^, as a class^ are not much given
to botanical or horticultural studies^ but no doubt the pro-
spect of an occasional half-dozen fresh mushrooms on the
gridiron would give them most praiseworthy interest in the
culture. The only objection to it is_, or might be_, that
once they were at home in the culture, the gardener
would be very likely to fall short of materials for his hot-
beds. An empty loft, or any other covered structure
could be employed as well as the stable or an empty coach-
house. Apart altogether from utilizing the walls of the
stable, as the Baron did, empty stalls frequently present
an opportunity of growing mushrooms in quantity. These
remarks apply to stables in cities and towns, as well as
in the country ; indeed in cities, particularly in London,

CULTURE IN SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC. 51

stable manure is usually so plentiful tliat it is much easier
to obtain and much cheaper than in the country^ so that
even those in London having suitable places for growing
mushrooms, but not keeping horses regularly or at all,
could have no difficulty in procuring abundance of
materials.

The French often cultivate mushrooms in cellars as well
as in the caves described in the next chapter. Preference
should be given to a dry warm cellar; it should be as
dark as possible, and exposed to no draughts. Beds can
be made in cellars in many ways. Those made in the
middle should alwavs be formed with two sides, while those
against the walls should only be half as thick, on account

IEI

V

\s

Hk'

L>

«?^> >^^

C '<

^

I^Doa'

^

S^ TO

i

i^^bewL

^

^j

HlK

S^.

V ■"

C

Fig. 15. Mushroom-bed on rude shelf against wall of cellar.

of their having only one useful side. It is also possible
to arrange them on shelves, one above the other. For
this purpose strong bars of iron are driven into the
walls, upon which are placed shelves of the proper size
covered with earth, upon which is formed a bed, tliat is
treated exactly as those made upon the ground. These
beds arc just as productive as any of the otlicr kinds.

E 2

5:2

MUSHROOM CULTURIi.

They mav even be made on the bottoms of casks, which
should be at least two feet six in diameter ; and they

Tig. 16. Pyramidal mushroom-bed on floor of cellar.
are built up in the shape of a sngarloaf, about three feet
in height, and the pieces of spawn are placed an i

(

ncli

C?J^.

l",g. 17. Mushrooms gro^yn i.i bottom of old cask,
ond a quarter deep, and sixteen inches apart. A barrel
is saw., cvossways into two pieces, each formmg a tub.

CULTURE IN SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC. 53

Holes arc made in the bottom of each, aud a thin layer
of good soil is spread over them inside. They are then
filled with good well-prepared stable manure, just like
that used in the case of ordinary mushroom-beds, the
different layers of dung in each tub being well pressed
down. ^Yhen the tub is half full^ six or seven good
pieces of spawn are placed on the surface, and the re-
mainder is piled up with manure, which is well pressed
down, the operation being completed by giving to the
heap the form of a dome. The tubs thus prepared are
placed in a perfectly dark part of a cellar, and eight or
ten days afterwards the dung is taken up until the spawn
is visible, in order to see whether it has commenced to
vegetate and develop little filaments. If the spawn has
spread, the surface must be covered with soil, care being
taken to use only that which is fresh and properly pre-
pared. In this or any like way there should be no
difficulty in growing mushrooms : the boxes or tubs could
be filled anywhere, and then carried into the spare cellars,
&c. In this way objections against steaming manure
might in many cases be got over.

Among the many and various structures in which
mushrooms may be grown, but which we rarely see
utilized for that purpose, may be mentioned all kinds of
greenhouses, stoves, pits, and frames. Some of the best
crops I have ever seen were in cold greenhouses ahnost
too ruinous to grow anything else. In mid- winter the

54 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

floors of all liouses in which a genial temperature is kept
up for forcing or other purposes^ oifer excellent positions
for producing mushrooms quickly and abundantly.
Small ridge-like beds might be made on the floor of
these, and, ydth the genial temperature usually kept up in
such places, would probably come into bearing a month
or so after being spawned. How often, for example, do
we notice the floors of large vineries, in mid-winter or
very early spring, quite bare, especially after the "vines
are started. Now just at that season the genial heat that
would be given off" from the slightly fermenting materials
used for the mushroom-bed is that which would be most
congenial to the tender breaking vines, and with a little
attention in this way a first-rate crop of mushrooms
could always be gathered from the early vinery, and in
houses where no artificial heat was applied they could
also be grown abundantly. A covering of hay would,
however, be necessary in cold houses in mid- winter, to
prevent excessive variation of the temperature, and also
in spring and summer to prevent excessive drying or
scorching of the beds by a hot sun. I have even seen
excellent crops grown on the floor in an old lean-to
house, the beds covered with a foot or so of hay, occa-
sionally sprinkled with water to prevent excessive heat
on the surface of the bed. In small places where every
foot of space in the glass-house is likely to be occupied
with plants, it is not easy to carry out the foregoing

CULTURE IN SHEDS, ARCHES, ETC. 55

suggestions^ but even if a small early vinery Tvere occu-
pied with plants^ it Avould be desirable and practicable
to introduce a series of rough boxes devoted to mush-
room culture.

Apart from empty greenhouses altogether, the space
beneath the stages in numbers of glass-houses of every
type may be utilized for the production of mushrooms.
These positions are usually unoccupied, occasionally they
are used for storing fuchsias, &c. in Tvinter, but very
seldom arc they turned to so good account as they might
be in the way I recommend. The stage in the small
greenhouse is frequently elevated so that there is plenty
of room to get beneath it: if at the back or end there is
no way of walking readily under the stage, an opening
should be made. The only difficulty that could possibly
occur would arise from the drip from the plants on the stage
above. This, liowever, can be easily guarded against by
spreading a piece of tarpaulin or oil-canvas over the bed
or beds. AVith beds properly made, a coat of dry hay or
litter, and a piece of tarpaulin^ every owner of anything
in the shape of a greenhouse with a stage in it may grow
mushrooms throughout the autumn, winter, and spring
months, and even in summer by keeping the surface of
the hay or litter moist. Of course, if there be room for
but one bed, a succession cannot be kept up, and in this
case a bed should be made in autumn^ which, if well
managed, should be in full bearing for a month or six

56 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

weeks before and after Christmas. There are^ however,
numerous spaces such as those alluded to where there is
room to make a succession of beds. No person having
but one greenhouse need fear much or any inconvenience
from the odour of the manure — at least, not after the beds
are earthed. The couple of inches of soil over the
manure would absorb any vapour given off by the bed.

Wherever the cultivation of cucumbers or melons in
pits or frames is carried out, nothing can be easier than
to grow large crops of mushrooms after the melons, &"c.
are cleared away. The spawn may be inserted over the
surface of the little mounds usually made for the reception
of the young melon plants, and also over the remaining
surface of the beds which are generally covered with a few
inches of earth. After the melons have done bearing
and the haulm is cleared away, the spawn will usually be
found to have spread through the deep mass of earth in
the beds. As little or no water is given or required while
the melons are ripening, a good soaking of tepid water
will generally be necessary to encourage the mushrooms
to start into profuse bearing. If the season and situation
be mild and warm, the lights may be taken off; and if the
sun be very strong, the beds may be shaded with canvas
or mats. If the season be late and cold it will, on the
other hand, be desirable to keep on the lights, and even
to cover them in cold weather.

0/

CHAPTER YI.

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS_, NEAR PARIS.

The most extensive and successful culture of muslirooms
in existence is carried on in widely- ramifying caves far
beneath the surface in the vicinity of Paris. To give the
reader as good an idea of it as I can we must visit one of
the great ^' ^Mushroom caves^^ at Montrouge, just outside
the fortifications of Paris^ on the southern side. The surface
of the ground is mostly cropped with wheat ; but here
and there lie, ready to be transported to Paris, blocks of
white stone, which have recently been brouglit to the
surface through coalpit-like openings. There is nothing-
like a " quarry/^ as we understand it, to be seen ; the
stone is extracted as we extract coal, and with no inter-
ference whatever with the surface of the ground. AVe
find a " champignonniste^' after some trouble, and he
accompanies us across some fields to the entrance of his
subterranean garden. It is a circular opcniug like the
mouth of an old well, but from it protrudes the head of
a thick pole Avith sticks thrust through it. This pole,
the base of which rests in darkness sixty feet below, is the

58

MUSHROOM CULTUKE.

J- f i ^ I

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. 59

easiest and indeed the only Tvay by which human beings
can get into the mine. I had an idea that one might
enter sideways and in a more agreeable manner, but it
was not so. Down the shaky pole my guide ereeps, I
follow, and soon reach the bottom, from which little
passages radiate. A few little lamps fixed on pointed
sticks are placed below, and, arming ourselves with one
each, we slowly commence exploring dark, still, tortuous
passages. I have heard that the first individual who
commenced mushroom-gi'owing in these catacomb-like
burro wings was one who, at a particularly glorious epoch
of the history of France, when a great many more brave
gar9ons went to fight than returned from the victory,
preferred, strange to say, to stay at home and hide him-
self rather than form a imit in " battlers magnificently
stern array. "" Industrious and discreet youth ! You
deserve being held up as an example as much as the
busy bee that improves each ^^ shining horn-."

The passages are narrow, and occasionally we have to
stoop. On each hand there are little narrow beds of half-
decomposed stable manure running along the wall.
These have been made quite recently, and have not yet
been spawned. Presently we arrive at others in whicli
the spawn has been placed, and is '^ taking' freely. Tlie
spawn in these caves is introduced into the little beds
in flakes taken from an old bed, or, still better,
from a heap of stable manure in which it occurs naturally.

60 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

Such spawn is preferred,, aud considered much more
valuable than that taken from old beds. Of spawn in the
form of bricksj such as is used in England^ there is none.

Fig. 19. Xewl3'-made bed against wall of cave.

The champignonniste pointed with pride to the way
in which the flakes of spawn had begun to spread through
the little beds^ and passed on — sometimes stooping very
low to avoid the pointed stones in the roof — to where the
beds were in a more advanced state. Here we saw little,
smooth^ putty-coloured ridges running along the sides of
the passages, and wherever the rocky subway became as
large as a small bedroom two or three little beds were
placed parallel to each other. These beds were new, and
dotted all over with mushrooms no biscsrer than sweet
pea seeds, affording an excellent prospect of a crop. Each
bed contains a much smaller body of manure than
is ever the case in our gardens. They are not more than
twenty inches high, and about the same width at the
base ; while those against the sides of the passages arc
not so large as those placed in the open spaces. The

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. CI

soilj with whicli they are covered to the depth of about an
inch J is nearly "white, and is simply sifted from the rubbisli
of the stone-cutters above, giving the recently-made bed
the appearance of being covered with putty.

Although we are from seventy to eighty feet below the
surface of the ground, everything looks quite neat — in fact,
very much more so than could have been expected, not
a particle of litter being met with. A certain length of
bed is made eveiy day in the year, and as the men finish
one gallery or series of galleries at a time, the beds in
each have a similar character. As we proceed to those
in full bearing, creeping up and down narrow passages,
winding always between the two little narrow beds against
the wall on each side, and passing now and then through
wider nooks filled with two or three little beds, daylight
is again seen. This time it comes through another well-
like shaft, formerly used for getting up the stone, but
now for throwing down the requisite materials into the
cave. At the bottom lies a large heap of the white earth
before alluded to, and a barrel of water — for gentle
waterings are required in the quiet, cool, black stillness
of these caves, as well as in mushroom-houses on the
upper crust.

Once more we plunge into a passage as dark as ink,
and find ourselves between two lines of beds in full bear-
ing, the beautiful white button-like mushrooms appearing
everywhere in profusion along the sides of the diminutive

62

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

beds^ something like the drills which farmers make for
green crops. As the proprietor goes along he removes
sundry bunches that are in perfection^ and leaves them
on the spot, so that they may be collected with the rest
for to-morrow^'s market. He gathers largely every day,
occasionally sending more than 400 lb. weight per day,
the average being about 300 lb.

A moment more and we are in an open space, a sort
of chamber, say 20 feet by 12, and here the little beds

rig. 20. View in mushroom-cave.

are arranged in parallel lines, an alley of not more than
four inches separating them, the sides of the beds being
literallv blistered all over Avith mushrooms. There is one

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. 63

exception ; on half of the bed and for about ten feet along,
the little mushrooms have appeared and are appearing,
but they never get larger than a pea, and shrivel away,
^^ bewitched^' as it were. At least such was the inference
drawn from the cultivator's expression about it. He
gravely attributed it to a ridiculously superstitious cause.
Frequently the mushrooms grow in bunches or ^^ rocks,^^
as they are called, and in such cases those that compose
the little mass are lifted all together.

The sides of one bed here had been almost stripped by
the taking away of such bunches, and it is worthy of
note that they are not only taken out, root and all, when
being gathered, but the very spot in w^hich they grew is
scraped out, so as to get rid of every trace of the old
bunch, and the space is covered with a little earth from the
bottom of the heap. It is the habit to do this in every
case, and when the gatherer leaves a small hole from
which he has pulled even a solitary mushroom, he fills
it with some of the white earth from the base, no doubt
intending to gather other mushrooms from the same spots
before many weeks are over. The ^' buttons^^ look very
white, and are apparently of prime quality. The absence
of all littery coverings and dust, and the daily gatherings,
secure them in what we may term perfect condition.
I visited this cave on the 6th of July, 18G8, and doubt
very much if at that season a more remarkable crop of
mushrooms could be anywhere found than was presented

64 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

in this subterranean chamber — a mere speck in the space
devoted to mushroom culture by one individual.

When I state that there are six or seven miles run of
mushroom-beds in the ramifications of this cave, and that
the owner is but one of a large class who devote them-
selves to mushroom culture, the reader will have some
opportunity of judging of the extent to which it is
carried on about Paris. These caves not only supply
the wanes of the city above them, but those of England
and other countries also, large quantities of preserved
mushrooms being exported, one house alone sending to
our own country no less than 14,000 boxes annually.
There were some traces of the teeth of rats on the pro-
duce, and it need not be said that these enemies are not
agreeable in such a place ; but they did not seem to have
committed any serious ravages, and are probably only
casual visitors, who take the first opportunity of obtain-
ing more varied food than is afforded them by these caves.
To traverse the passages any further is needless — there
is nothing to be seen but a repetition of the culture
above described, every available inch of the cave being
occupied. We again find our way to the bottom of the
shaft, carefully mount the rather shaky pole one at a time,
and again stand in the hot sun in the midst of the ripe
wheat.

In traversing the fields two things relating to mush-
room culture are to be observed — heaps of white gritty

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. G5

earth, sifted from the debris of the white stouc, and
large heaps of stable manure accumulated for mushroom
growing, and undergoing preparation for it. That pre-
paration is different from what we are accustomed to give
it. It is ordinary stable manure, or very short stuff,
not droppings, and is thrown into heaps four or five feet
high, and perhaps thirty feet wide. The men were
employed turning this over, the mass being afterwards
stamped down with their feet, a water-cart and pots
being used to thoroughly water the manure where it is
dry and whitish.

As many will feel an interest in the cave culture of
the mushroom, and perhaps wish to see it for themselves,
I may state that it is difficult to obtain permission to
visit the caves, and many persons would not like the
look of the ^Hadder^^ which affords an entrance. Even
with a well-known Parisian horticulturist I had some
difficulty in entering them. I was informed that one
champignonnistc in the same neighbourhood demands the
exorbitant price of twenty francs for a visit to his cave.
As the visit is the work of some little time, no visitor
should put the cultivators to this trouble without offering
some slight recompense — say not less than five francs.
The above cave is but a sample of many in the im-
mediate neighbourhood of Paris.

We will next visit a mushroom-cave of another type
at some little distance from that city. It is situated

p

66 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

near Frepillon, Meiy-sur-Oise — a place whicli may be
readied in an liour or so by the Chemin de fer du Nord,
passing by Engbien, the valley of Montmorency and
Pontoise, and alighting at Auvers. There are vast
quarries in the neighbourhood,, both for budding-stone
and the plaster so largely used in Paris. The materials
are not quarried in the ordinary way by opening up the
ground, nor by the method employed at Montrouge and
elsewhere in the suburbs of Paris, but so that the interior
of the earth looks like a vast gloomy cathedral. In 1867 the
mushroom culture was in full force at Mery, and as many
as 3000 lbs. a day were sometimes sent from thence to
the Paris market ; but the mushroom is a thing of
peculiar taste, and these quarries are now empty — cleaned
out and left to rest. After a time the great quarries
seem to become tired of their occupants, or the mush-
rooms dislike the air ; the quarries are then well cleaned
out, the very soil where the beds rested being scraped
away, and the place left to recruit itself for a year or
two. In 1867 M. Renaudot had the extraordinary length
of over twenty-one miles of mushroom-beds in one great
cave at Mery ; last year there were sixteen miles in a
cave at Frepillon. This is a clean, lonely vdlage, just
touching on the gigantic cemetery which M. Haussmanu
projected.

The distant view of the entrance to the quarries has
much the appearance of an English chalk-pit. But

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS.

67

there is a great iiidc arcli cut into the rock, and into
this we enter, meeting presently a waggon coming forth
with a load of stones, the waggoner with lamp in hand.
To the visitor who has seen the mushroom caves near

¥*«a^#isis«e

' if*-;

Fig. 21. Entrance to large subterranean quarr}'.

Paris, where it is sometimes necessary to stoop very low
to avoid knocking one's head against the roof rocks, the
surprise is great on getting a little way in. At least it
is so soon as one can see ; the darkness is so profound

F 2

68

MUSUR003I CULTURE.

that a few candles or lamps merely make it more visible.
The tunnel we traverse is nearly regularly arched_, masonry
being used here and there^ so as to render the support

Fig. 22.
Plan of large subterranean quarry at Fortes Terras, Frepillon. S, S, S,
represent the plan of the bases of the huge supporting pillars, and
the dotted lines their union with the roof. D, C, shows the line of
the section shown in the following cut, and P, place for preparing
the plaster. Sept. 1868.

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS.

G9

secure and somewhat symmetrical, the arches being flat
at the top for six feet or so, and about twenty-five feet
high ; sometimes five feet higher.

Presently we turn to the right, and a scene like a vast
subterranean rock temple presents itself. At one end
are several of us with lamps, admiring the young mush-
rooms budding all over the rows of beds, which, serpent-
like, are long and slim, and coil away into the darkness.
At about 150 feet distance there is a group of three men

Fig. 23. Section following the line C, D, in Fig. 22.

and a boy, each with a lamp, again dispelling the dark-
ness from the mushroom beds, and occupied in placing
small quantities of a sort of white clayey sand in the spots
whence gatherings have been made a few hours previously.
From both sides of this gloomy avenue the dark openings
of others depart at short intervals, and the floor of all is
covered with mushroom-beds, sometimes running along
the passages, sometimes across them. These ])cds arc

70 :\1USHR00M CULTURE.

about twenty-two inches high and as much in diameter,
and are covered with silver sand and a sort of white
putty-like clay in about equal proportions. Running along
in parallel lines, and disappearing from view in the dark-
ness, one knows not what to compare them to, unless it
be to barked pine trees in the hold of a ship.

Everywhere on the surface of these little beds small
mushrooms were peering forth in quantity ; as the beds
are regularly gathered from every day, no very large ones
are seen. They are preferred wdien about the size of a
chestnut, and are removed root and branch, a small portion
of finely sifted earth being placed in each hole, so as to
level the bed as in the caves at Montrouge. If the old
superstition that a mushroom never grows after being seen
by human eyes were true, the trade of a champignonniste
would never answer here, as the little budding individuals
come within view every day during the gathering and
earthing operations. The most perfect cleanliness is
observed everywhere in the neighbourhood of these beds,
and the whole surface of each avenue is covered by them,
leaving passages of ten inches or a foot between the
beds. At the time of my visit (Sept. 29, 1868) the crops
of the cultivator were reduced to their lowest ebb, and
yet about 400 lbs. per day were sent to market. The
average daily quantity from this cave is about 880 lbs.,
and sometimes that is nearly doubled.

In some parts of the cave the work of ripping out the

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. 71

stone by powder and simple machinery continually goes
on. The arches follo^y the vcining of the stone, so to
speak ; their lower parts are of hard stone, the upper
ones of soft, except the very top, which is again hard.
There is but a slight crust of stone above the apex of
each arch, and above that the earth and trees.

It may be supposed that the profits from such an ex-
tensive culture are great ; and so they are, but the expense
is great also. The proprietor informed me that culture
on a more limited scale than he pursued last year at ^lery
gave the best return in proportion to expense, the care
and supervision required by so many miles of beds being
too great.

All the manure employed is brought from Paris by rail,
as the place is twenty-five miles from that city by road.
In the first place, so much per month is paid in Paris for
the manure of each horse ; then it has to be carted to the
railway station and loaded in the waggons ; next it is
brought to the station of Auvers, and afterwards carted a
couple of miles to the quarries, paying a toll for a bridge
over the Oise on the way. That surely is difficulty enough
for a cultivator to begin with ! Then it is placed in great
flat heaps a yard deep by about thirty long and ten wide,
not far removed from the mouth of the cave, and here it is
prepared, turned over and well mixed three times, and as
a rule watered twice. About five or six weeks are occupied
in the preparation, long manure requiring more time than

72

MUSHllOOM CULTURE.

short. The watering is not usually done regularly over the
mass, but chiefly where it is dry and overheated. Every
day manure is brought from Paris ; every day new beds
are made and old ones cleared out— the spent manure being

rig. 24. Extracting the stone in subterranean quarries.

used for garden purposes, particularly in surfacing or
mulching, so as to prevent over-radiation from the ground
in summer. The chief advantage the cultivator here basis
the facility of taking his manure or anything else in or out

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. 73

in carts_, as easily as if tlic beds were made in the open air.
Near Paris, on tlie contrary, everything has to be sent up
and down through shafts like those of an old well, and the
men have to creep up and down a rough pole like mice.
Many men are employed in the culture, the daily examina-
tion of sixteen miles of beds being a considerable item in
itself. Here and there a barrier in the form of straw nailed
between laths may be seen blocking up the great arch to
a height of six feet or so. This is to prevent currents of
air wandering about through the vast passages.

The mode of preparing the spawn here is entirely
different to ours. They prefer virgin spawn — that is to say,
spawn found naturally in a heap of manure. But as this
material cannot be obtained in sufficient quantity to meet
the wants of such extensive growers, they put a small por-
tion of it into a mushroom-bed to spread, and instead of
allowing this bed to produce mushrooms, it is all used as
spawn, and is valued more than any other. Of course
abundance of spawn occurs in the old beds, but it is never
used directly. It is, hoAvcver, frequently emjiloycd to
spawn a small bed when virgin spawn cannot be obtained.
In this case the small bed devoted to the propagation of
spawn is placed in the open air, and covered with straw,
and as soon as it is permeated with the spawn it is carried
into the caves and used. As the making and spawning of
beds is a process continually going on, a bed of this sort
must be ready at all times. It is never made into bricks

74 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

as with us^ but simply spread through shorty partly-decom-
posed_, manure."^

I was informed that coal-mines are not adapted for grow-
ing mushrooms, and the smallest particle of iron in the
beds of manure is avoided by the spawn, a circle around
it remaining inert. It is said to be the same with coal.
If an evil-disposed workman wishes to injure his employer,
he has only to slip along by the beds with a pocketful
of rusty old nails, and insert one here and there.

Fig. 25. View in old subterranean quarries devoted to mushroom cul-
ture, and in the occupation of M. Renaudot. Sept. 29, 1868.

The beds remain in good bearing generally about two
months, but sometimes last twice and three times as long.
A useful contrivance for facilitating the watering of the

* Mr, Speed, superintendent of the gardens at Chatsworth, has re-
cently prepared his own spawn, as described on p. 73, and with perfect
success.

THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS. 75

beds has lately been invented ; it consists of a portable
"water-cistern to be strapped to the baek and fitted with a
rose and tubing, so that a workman may carry a larger
quantity of water, and apply it more regularly and gently
than with the old-fashioned watering-pots — while one hand
is left free to carry the lamp. An iron frame has also
been invented, in which the bed is first compressed and
shaped, the frame being then reversed and the bed placed
in position. Another invention for earthing the beds over
as soon as the spawn has taken will soon be in operation
if not already so. As on an average 2500 yards of beds
are made every month, simple mechanical contrivances
to facilitate the operation will prove of the greatest ad-
vantage to the cultivator.

In addition to the caves in the localities above al-
luded to there are other places near Paris where the
culture is carried on — notabl}^ at ^loulin dc la Roche,
Sous Bicetre, near St. Germaine, and also at Bagneux.
The equability of temperature in the caves renders the
culture of the mushroom possible at all seasons ; but the
best crops are gathered in winter, and consequently
that is the best time to see them. I, however, saw
abundant crops in the hottest part of the very hot season
of 18G8. These mushroom caves are under Govern-
ment supervision, and are regularly inspected like any
other mines in which work is going on. As regards the
depth at which this culture is practised^ it usually varies

76 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

from twenty to one hundred feet_, sometimes reaching one
hundred and fifty and one hundred and sixty feet from the
surface of the earth. They are so large that sometimes
people are lost in them. In one instance the proprietor
of a large cave went astray^ and it was three days before
he was discovered;, although soldiers and volunteers in
abundance were sent down. Is it possible that in a
great mining and excavating country like ours we cannot
establish the same kind of industrv ?

CHAPTER VII.

CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR
IN GARDENS AND FIELDS.

Mushrooms may be grown with ease in the open air in gar-
dens ; and this is a phase of the culture with which gar-
deners are not by any means sufficiently conversant. In fact,
mushroom-culture in the open air in private gardens may
be said not to exist at present, so very rarely is it seen.

In a little pamphlet on mnshroom-growing that has lately
appeared I find it stated that mushrooms may be grown
out of doors " in summer/^ but nothing about them be-
ing grown in the open air in winter. The Paris growers
never attempt their culture in summer : the London
ones very rarely. It is in winter that their cultivation is
carried on in full vigour in the open air. Abundant crops
are grown in the open air by the market-gardeners of
London and Paris. From their beds mushrooms are
gathered in quantities in mid-winter as well as in autumn.
The Paris market-gardener docs not attempt the culture
in mid-summer, and docs not think it practicable ; but
in the hot summer of 18G8, and in the midst of tlie heats

7S

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

of July, I found about half an acre of ground at Erompton
covered "with, musliroom-beds bearing well.

The following illustration is from a sketch taken in
Nov. 1869, in market-garden fields, between Kensington
and Brompton. The "Kf^ds, about three and a half feet
high and the same in width at the base, are covered with
the long straw or litter taken from the stable manure.
Over that is placed old bast mats, or any like materials,

Fig. 26. Mushroom-beds in market-gardens at Earl's Court,
Kensington. November, 1869.

to keep the litter in its place, and throw off the rain ;
the mats being kept in place by tiles, bricks, old boards,
or any like objects that may be at hand. This is well
shown in my illustration.

The manure employed is that brought from the London
stables, the longer litter being shaken out and put on
one side to cover the beds. No care whatever is taken
in the preparation of the manure ; it is usually made

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR. 79

into beds soon after it is brought home and before it is
allowed to lieat_, and then the beds are made in the form
of potato-pits and beaten very firm. The beds arc
spawned when at about a temperature of eighty degrees,
the pieces of spawn being placed about a foot or so apart,
and it is then immediately earthed, the ordinary soil being
used, and the bed covered to a thickness of a couple of
inches. The success attained by the market- gardeners of
both London and Paris, with the ordinary soil of the place
in which the beds may be made, well proves the absurdity
of seeking for any particular kind of soil for covering
mushroom-beds. Beds made in this way in the autumn
and winter months, and covered with a thick layer of
litter and mats, seldom require any watering. The
culture is not usually attempted in summer; the heat
acting upon the littery covering giving rise to insects
which destroy the mushrooms ; but with care their
culture is quite practicable at that season ; in proof of
which I may say that during the last week of July, 1868,
I saw them gathered freely in a market-garden just
beside the Gloucester Road Station of the Metropolitan
Railway, where by using a coating of litter about a foot
thick, and over that a layer of mats, it was possible to
procure them in good condition throughout the hottest
summer within memory. There are many acres of
ground covered Avith beds made thus in the market-
gardens round London.

80 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

We will next turn to the culture of the mushroom in the
open air near Paris. In old times the market-gardeners
there used to grow it amongst their ordinary crops with
great profit^ but since the champignonnistes cultivate it
under no danger from cold in the caves^ the market-
gardeners_, who used to raise it to a great extent in the
open air, do so now in a less degree. They begin

Fig. 27. Uncovered end of musliroom-bed in Paris market-garden.

January, 1867.

with the preparation of the manure^ and collect that of
the horse for a month or six weeks before they make the
beds ; this they prepare in some firm sj)ot of the market-
garden^ and take from it all rubbish,, particles of wood,
and miscellaneous matters; for, say they, the spawn is
not fond of these bodies. After sorting it thus, they
place it in beds two feet thick, or a little more, pressing
it with the fork. When this is done the mass or bed is

CULTURE Ix\ THE OPEN AIR. SI

well stamped, then thoroughly watered,, and finally again
pressed down by stamping. It is left in this state for
eight or ten days, by which time it has begun to ferment,
after which the bed ought to be well turned over and
re-made on the same place, care being taken to place
the manure that was near the sides of the first-made
bed towards the centre in the turning and re-making.
The mass is now left for another ten days or so, at the
end of which time the manure is about in proper con-
dition for making the beds that are to bear the mush-
rooms. Little ridge-shaped beds — about twenty-six inches
wide and the same in height — are then formed in parallel
lines at a distance of twenty inches one from the other.
In a market-garden they may stretch over a consider-
able extent, their length being determined by the wants
of the grower. The beds once made of a firm, close-
fitting texture, the manure soon begins to warm again,
but does not become unwholesomely hot for the spread
of the spawn. When the beds have been made some
days, the cultivator spawns them, having of course as-
certained beforehand that the heat is genial and suitable.
Generally the spawn is inserted within a few inches of
the base, and at about thirteen inches apart in the line.
Some cultivators insert two lines, the second about seven
inches above the first. In doing so, it would of course
be well to make the holes for the spawn in an alternate
manner. Tlie spawn is inserted in flakes about the size

G

S2 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

of three fiiigei^, and then the mannre is closed in over,
and pressed firmly around it. This done, the beds are
covered with about six inches of clean litter. Ten or
twelve days afterwards the growers visit the beds, to see
if the spawn has taken well. When they see the white
filaments spreading in the bed they know that the spawn
has taken ; if not, they take away the spawn they sup-
pose to be bad and replace it with better. But, using
good spawn, and being practised hands at the work, they
rarely fail in this particular ; and when the spawn is seen
spreading well through the bed, then, and not before,
they cover the beds with fresh sweet soil to the depth
of about an inch or so. For cover, the little pathway
between the beds is simply loosened up, and the rich
soil of the market-garden applied equably, firmly, and
smoothly with a shovel. With these open-air beds they
succeed in getting mushrooms in winter. A covering of
abundance of litter is put on immediately after the beds
are earthed, and kept there as a protection. They have
not long to wait till the beds are in full beariag, and
when they are in that state it is thought better to
examine and gather from them every second day, or
even every day where there are many beds. And thus
they grow excellent mushrooms, and in great quantity,
all the further attention required being to renew the
covering when it gets rotten, and an occasional watering
in a very dry season.

CULTURE IX THE OPEN AIR. 83

Of course tliis kind of cultivation is perfectly practi-
cable in private gardens — wliere^ however, I liaA^e not yet
seen it carried out. Where there is a mushroom-house
or empty shed in which mushrooms may be grown_, there
would be less occasion to pursue it, but there are many
places in which no such conveniences exist. In any case
it is desirable that gardeners generally should know to
what a large extent this phase of the culture is pursued
round London and Paris, and how simply it is done.
Instead of mats, it would be an improvement to cover
the beds with tarpaulin or some other cheap material
that would keep out the wet.

g2

84

CHAPTER VIII.

CULTURE IN GARDENS^ ETC.^ WITH OTHER CROPS IN
THE OPEN AIR.

This is a phase of culture whicli may be pursued to great
advantage in every private garden, almost without cost
and attention. The low ridge-like hotbeds, for example,
made for both long and short prickly cucumbers, gourds,
marrows, &c., are admirably suited for growing a crop
of mushrooms under the leaves of the subjects for which
they Avere made. If the spawn be inserted soon after
the beds are made, or at any convenient time in early
summer, the beds will come into bearing in due course.
Perhaps they may do so when mushrooms are found
abundantly in the fields ; but there are thousands of
persons possessing gardens who have no fields in which
to cull mushrooms, and who would like to gather them
fresh in summer or autumn, if they could not aff'ord to
grow them in any covered structure in winter. And this
is but one way in which they may be grown with summer
garden crops, as will appear from the following commu-
nication, by Mr. Ayrcs, to the Field : —

CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC. 85

" The finest crop and the best mushrooms I ever saw
were grown in the open ground, and without any protec-
tion at all. I will tell you how it happened. Some
years back I had the charge of the garden of a noted
hunting establishment in Northamptonshire, one of the
aids to success being that the manure of an average of
nearly fifty higlily-fed horses went to the garden, the
owner remarking that, whatever other things I might run
short of, there would be plenty of ^ muck.^ Well, the
best of the hunters during the summer were soiled in
loose boxes, principally under cover, and in these boxes
the manure was allowed to accumulate until it began to
grow too hot for the feet of the horses ; then it was in-
dispensable that it should be removed. About midsummer
it so happened that nearly three acres of ground had
been cleared of the spring crop, spinach, early peas,
beans, &c., and I had determined to devote the whole
plot to winter brassicas, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, &c.
The ground was brashy and very poor, and consequently
I determined to clear the boxes and put the whole of
the manure upon it. It was carted away so rich
in ammonia that the men who loaded it shed tears,
not from sentiment, but from compulsion ; and when
the manure was spread upon the surface it was nothing
less than a foot thick — so thick, that the proprietor
said it was impossible for it to be dug into the
ground. However, clearing a trench at one end of the

86 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

piece^ thirty inches wide and nearly a foot deep, the
subsoil was broken up with strong steel forks,, and upon
that the dung covering the next strip was placed, and
covered with the surface soil of the next trench; and
so the work proceeded until the manure was put out
of sight. I may remark that the dung, especially that
around the walls, contained evidence of being strongly
impregnated with mushroom spawn, though this was not
regarded as being likely to produce a crop of the escu-
lent. A soaking rain falling, the ground was immediately
planted with brassicas, which grew as if they could not
help growing — and in fact they could not.

'^ We had not planted for mushrooms, nor were mush-
rooms expected; but, walking round one morning early
in September, a bunch of splendid fellows presented
themselves, so large and thick and solid, that when I
took them in for breakfast my chef de cuisine and ' better
half '' had grave doubts as to whether they were ' the
real thing.^ However, they were eaten, and the present
writing is a proof that they did not poison me. Return-
ing to the plot, I found the bunch gathered was not a
solitary one — on the contrary, the ground was literally
paved with mushrooms, many of them so large that bushels
were gathered for ketchup within a few hours ; while the
retainers of a large establishment, down to the lowest
labourer, were in a fortnight positively sick of them, and
cartloads rotted upon the ground.

CULTURE IX GARDENS, ETC. 87

" Tlic evidence of this uucxpected success demoustratcd
two thiugs — first, that if the ground is freely manured
■with fresh dung from well-fed horses, mushrooms are
almost sure to be produced; and, secondly, that the
more the ground is covered with the foliage of plants,
the more certain will be the crop. Thus we found more
mushrooms under savoys and broccoli than under Brussels
sprouts — the former no doubt protecting the crop fi'om
heavy drenches of rain, Avhich we know are very injurious
to the mushroom crop. Since this example of mushroom-
growing turned up, nearly fifteen years ago, I have fre-
quently concentrated the fresh manure under a row of
savoys or broccoli, throwing in at the same time a dust
of mushroom spawn or the dung of a spent mushroom
bed ; and, except in very wet seasons, I have rarely
failed to have a fine supply during the months of Sep-
tember and October. One point of success I believe to
be essentially necessary, and that is, that water shall have
a free passage through the ground at all times ; hence
the necessity of trenching the ground, if you expect mush-
rooms as well as brassicas.^'

Even in gardens where mushrooms arc well grown in
enclosed structures such results in early autumn will often
be desirable ; wliilc in numbers of places where there are
few or no 0])portunities of gathering them in abundance
under other circumstances, crops in the garden will be
very welcome. Therefore utilise the old mushroora-bcds I

8S

CHAPTER IX.

MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC.

Notwithstanding the extreme abundance of the com-
mon mushroom in the meadows and pastures of the
British islands, and probably in similar positions all the
world over, it is scarce in many situations, and, it may
be, not a few persons would be willing to make it of more
frequent occurrence in their fields. There is an opinion
not uncommon that this cannot be done ; that the mush-
room is, to a great extent, a creature of chance, and that
it cannot be cultivated. This is not a philosophical
notion : there can be no doubt that the mushroom has
to abide the results of the struggle for life as well as any
other species of plant. Considering that we have taken
the sj)awn from the fields and cultivated it with great
success in all sorts of positions, none of which it could
ever inhabit naturally, it is absurd to suppose that we
cannot induce it to grow in positions exactly similar to
its native habitat. Found in open, sunny meadows and
pastures, and avoiding the shade of trees, it is grown, as
we have seen, in dark and deep mines; yet people sup-

CULTURE IX PASTURES, ETC. 89

pose it cannot be grown in those pastures in which it
happens not to be found. It is erroneously inferred
that there is something in its constitution or habit which
causes it to occur in certain spots exclusively ; but as
well might we say this of any other plant. We know
well that hundreds of native plants are hardy enough to
grow almost anywhere,, yet how many of them are but
locally distributed and rare ! Again^ many plants arc
weeds in one district and unknown in another, perhaps,
neighbouring one.

As the Rev. M. J. Berkeley remarks : — " It is
almost useless to advert to the notion, though a very
common one, which would regard these productions as
the creatures of chance or of a happy concurrence
of circumstances favourable to their growth from
inorganic elements. It is true they often occur in
unexpected situations, and from their extreme rapidity of
development seem as if they could not have originated
from anything like seed. But, as accurate inquiry has
now thrown much light on the mystery in which the
origin of intestinal worms was lately involved, so the
phenomena which attend the growth of fungi are gra-
dually receiving light, and they arc found to follow
essentially the same laws as more perfect vegetables.^'
It is, in fact, quite fair to conclude that mushrooms, like
most other plants, occupy but a small space in the
vast expanse of soil and site which are naturally adapted

90 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

for their growth. I read in a gardening journal that
'^ it is impossible to command a crop of out-door mush-
rooms.'''' I am positive that it can be done with almost
as much certainty as any other crop^ provided wc take
into consideration certain conditions. Of course, we
must remember its natural wants ; the more we do so,
the more certain of success we may be. We know that
it grows most abundantly in rich, upland pastures where
water does not lie, associated with the meadow foxtail,
meadow and hard fescue and cock^s-foot grasses, clovers,
cowslips, daisies, yarrow, &c., and also with the thistles
[Cnicus lanceola tus 2ind C. arvensis)) and other plants fond
of similar soils. "We know that it is rarely found where
the marsh plume-thistle (Cnicus palustris), tufted hair-
grass, and other marsh grasses and plants abound, and
from the presence or absence of these plants we may easily
make up our minds as to the positions that suit it best.
Now, it has long since been proved in gardens that it is
quite possible to cultivate plants to a much higher degree
of perfection than they ever attain in a Avild state, under
conditions entirely different, and it is not improbable
that we should be able to grow the common mush-
room in soils and positions far removed from those in
which it naturally occurs. But there is no occasion for
anvthincr of the kind. It loves well-drained and drv
pastures and meadows, and is not the country covered
with such?

CULTURE IX PASTURES, ETC. 91

After selecting the position in which we wish to
propagate mushrooms^ and no moderately dry pasture-
land need be without them, the next thing to consider
is the providing of the spawn. Hitherto this has
probably been the great difficulty. When nearly 20/.
worth of mushroom spawn was annually used in the
mushroom-houses of a large garden, the expense neces-
sary to spawn a large pasture might well alarm the
richest of mushroom-loving landholders; but there is not
the slightest occasion for purchasing the spawn for this
purpose. Every farmer and country gentleman can make it
as easily as_, or more easily than, the spawn-manufacturer,
without any-expense or inconvenience, the essential thing
being a quantity of rather short stable-manure.

Where this is gathered in large heaps it will be easy to
obtain the requisite materials at once. Where it is not so,
a few loads of stable manure unmixed with long straw may
be throAOi together in the open air and prepared for the
pui'pose. There is no occasion to place it in a shed of any
kind, though if there be one at hand so much the better.
If prepared in the open air it should be on a dry place ;
the materials should be subjected to exactly the same
preparation as when used for making a mushroom-bed,
before described. They should be made into a potato-
pit-shaped bed, and spawned in the usual manner. For
this spawning it is of course necessary to obtain a little
spawn, wliethcr home-made or bought from the seeds-

92 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

man^ or found in what the French call ^^ a virgin condi-
tion^^ in the dunghill. In any case it will not be found
difficult to spawn one or more beds in this way, particu-
larly as there is nothing to pre^^ent people drying as
much home-made spawn at one time as will suffice for a
year or more. The spawn should be allowed to run
through this bed_, which should be covered with a slight
sprinkling of earth_, and beaten pretty firm. When it
has penetrated through the bed, it should, just before it
arrives at a bearing condition, be ready to be used as
spawn. The number of beds to be spawned in this way
may be limited according to the extent of ground on
which it is proposed to grow the mushrooms. This
spawn may be inserted in the meadows in early summer,
the most suitable time is in genial weather in May, and
the spawn should be inserted in holes from six to ten
feet apart.

The most expeditious and best way of inserting it is
that termed T-planting, striking the spade in the line
represented by the perpendicular of the T, and then in
the horizontal one on the top, pressing the spade back
when in the last position, so as to readily admit of the inser-
tion of one or more pieces of spawn. The kind of spawn
made as I have recommended usually falls into small pieces,
more likely to impregnate the earth quickly than the stijff,
brick-like pieces of nursery spawn. The ground, after
the insertion of the spawn, should be pressed firm with

CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC. 93

the foot. As to the depth at which the spawn should
be deposited, it would be better not to put it at any
given depth, but so that while one pieee of a flake may
be at a depth of six inches or nearly so, others may touch
the very surface. This, it need hardly be pointed out,
would allow of the spawn vegetating at the depth and
temperature most congenial to it. It would be most
desirable to spawn at slightly difi'erent times, and, if pos-
sible, with different samples of spawn : thus, for ex-
ample, it would be well to use a mixture of old and
dried spawn with that taken fresh from one of the beds
alluded to. If this were not convenient, some part of
the large bed of spawn might be laid by to dry, and used
a week or two afterwards. Probably the most economical
■way of doing this on a large scale would be by employing
a number of boys, guided by an experienced workman.

It is scarcely desirable to attempt the culture in kept
lawns, as no matter how suitable these are for it, the
appearance of a large crop of mushrooms would have
anything but a tendency to beautify the carpet of turf,
and would probably become offensive from their odour.

The preceding refers to the cultivation of mushrooms
in pastures, meadows, &c. There is not the slightest
reason why a similar course of culture would not succeed
in fields amongst green crops. As large crops of mush-
rooms have been produced in gardens under broccoli, &c.,
there is no reason whatever why they might not be

94 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

grown in tlie same manner under field-turnips, mangold-
wurtzel, &c. The spawn whicli could be so easily pre-
pared by any farmer, could be readily inserted in tbe
sides of the drills in which these crops are usually grown^
the slight elevation of which, by preserving the spawn
from excessive wet, will favour its development, and it
would take possession of, and impregnate the manure
in the drill. In fact, prodigious quantities might be
raised in this and similar ways, with but little trouble ;
and should the fields be afterwards laid down, as is not
uncommonly the case, the pasture or meadow would
probably become a regular mushroom-ground.

05

CHAPTER X.

THE COMMON MUSHROOMS.

Agaricus campestris (True ^leadow Musliroom).

The common meadow musliroom varies considerably,
but, " common to all are a fleshy pileiis, which is some-
times smooth, sometimes scaly, in colour white, or of
different shades of tawny, fuliginous, or brown ; gills free,
at first pallid, then flesh-coloured, then pink, next purple,
at length tawny-black ; the stem white, full, firm, varying
in shape, furnished with a white persistent ring; the
spores brown-black, and a volva which is very fugacious/'
— Badham^s Esculent Funguses of England.

There is scarcely any one in England avIio does not
feel himself competent to decide on the genuineness of a
mushroom ; its pink gills easily distinguish it from a
kindred fungus, Ag. arvensis, the gills of which arc of a
flesh-coloured grey, and out of the pickings often thousand
hands, a mistake is of rare occurrence ; and yet no fungus
presents itself under such a variety of forms, or such sin-
gular diversities of aspect ! The inference is plain ; less
discrimination than that employed to distiuguish tliis
would enable anvouc who should take the trouble to re-

96

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

cognise at a glance many of those esculent species, which
every spring and autumn fill our plantations and pastures
with plenteousness. Neither is this left to be a mere
matter of inference; it is corroborated in a singular
manner by what takes place at Rome ; there, whilst many

rig. 28. Agarlcus campestris (the True Meadow 3lushroom). Pastures,
autumn ; colour, white or pale brown ; gills, salmon, at length black ;
diameter, 3 to 6 inches. The spores are magnified 700 diameters.

hundred baskets of what we call toadstools are carried
home for the table, almost the only one condemned to
be thrown into the Tiber, by the inspector of the fungus
market, is our own mushroom ; indeed, in such dread is
this held in the Papal States, that no one knowingly

THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. 97

"would toucli it. '^ It is reckoned one of tlie fiercest
imprecations/' writes Professor Sanguinetti, " amongst
our lower orders, infamous for the horrible nature of
their oaths, to pray that one may die of a Pratiolo ;" and
although it has been some years registered among the
esculent funguses of Milan and Pavia (on the authority
of Yittadini), it has not yet found its way into those
markets. Mr. Worthington G. Smith, in his " Mush-
rooms and Toad-stools/' qualifies this statement of Dr.
Badham.

Agancus campestris is not generally appreciated in
Italy, and indeed is seldom eaten, and never appears in
the markets, for the simple reason that there would be
no sale for it. There is an edict in existence ordering
certain fungi to be thrown into the Tiber, but it is now,
and has long been altogether effete ; and whilst there is
an abundance of A. Ccesareus (avowedly the most delicious
of all fungi) for the markets of Italy, it is not to be ex-
pected the consumption will be given up for another and
little knowTi species.

The Modes of Cooking this Species. — " The mushroom,
having the same proximate principles as meat, requires,
like meat, to be cooked before these become changed.
The Ag, campestris may be prepared in a great variety
of ways : they give a fine flavour to soup, and greatly
improve bcef-tca; where arrowroot and weak broths
are distasteful to the patient, the simple seasoning

H

98 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

of a little ketchup will frequently form an agreeable
change. Some roast them^ basting with melted butter
and white (French) wine sauce. In patties and vols-
au-vent they are equally excellent ; in fricassees, as
everybody knows_, they are the important element of the
dish, Roques recommends in all cases the removal of
the gills before dressing, which though it secures a more
elegant-looking entremets, is only flattering the eye at
the expense of the palate.^^ — Badham,

Agaricus arvensis (Horse-Mushroom).

'^ Pileus fleshy, obtusely conico-campanulate, then
expanded, at first floccose, then smooth, even, or rivulose ;
stem hollow, with a floccose pith ; ring broad, pendulous,
double, the outer split in rays ; gUls free, wider in front,
at first dirty white, then brown, tinged with pink/" —
Berkeley's Outlines of British Fungology.

'^ This species is very nearly allied to the meadow
mushroom, and frequently grows with it, but it is
coarser, and has not the delicious flavour. It is usually
much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; it
turns a brownish yellow as soon as broken or bruised.
The top in good specimens is smooth, and snowy white ;
the gills are not the pure pink of the meadow mushroom,
but dirty brownish white, ultimately becoming brown-
black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and the pithy

THE COMMON MUSHROOMS.

90

stem is inclined to be hollow. It is the species exposed
for sale in Covent Garden Market. Indeed, after
knowing the market for many years_, I have rarely seen
any other species there ; when the true mushroom, how-
ever, is there, it is frequently mingled with horse mush-

Fig. 29. Agaricus arvensis (Horse Mushroom). Pastures, in autumn ;
colour, yellowish ; gills pallid, at length black ; diameter, 6 to 24 in.

rooms, which seems to show that the dealers do not know
one from the other. In the wet days of autumn, children,
idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town into the
meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mush-
room line ; they then bring their dirty stock to market,

H 2

100 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

"where it is sold to fashionable purchasers ; stale^ vapid,
and without taste — unless it be a bad one.

^^ When young and fresh^ the horse mushroom is a most
desirable addition to the bill of fare : it yields an abun-
dant gravy, and the flesh is firm and delicious. It is a
valuable plant when freshly gathered, but when stale it
becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or
juice.

" There is a curious, large, brown, hairy variety, of rather
uncommon occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of
the meadow mushroom, the A. villaticus of Dr. Badham.
It is a splendid form, but, I think, very rare. I have
only seen it once.

"Many country-folk readily distinguish the meadow
from the horse mushroom, and show antipathy to the latter,
although they are always willing to put it into the jar as
one of the ingredients of ketchup. Opinions appear
to diff'er greatly regarding the excellence of this species.
Mr. Penrose writes : — ' I think young, and especially
button, specimens of this very indigestible ; until they
are well opened out, they are unfit for use.^ Such,
however, I must say, is not my experience of button
specimens.

'^ There is a strong odour attached both to the fungus
and the spawn, the ground just below the surface being
frequently white with the latter ; or if horse-dung be
kicked aside in a rich meadow frequented by gramini-

THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. 101

vorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy
whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the
young individuals may be seen springing up.

" I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with gi'eat
apparent gusto, although the fungus was full of maggots/'
— Worthington G. Smith.

10;

CHAPTER XI.

MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS.

The following modes of cooking mushrooms may prove
useful to some : —

To Stetv Mushrooms. — Trim and rub clean half a pint
of large button mushrooms ; put into a stew-pan two
ounces of butter^ shake it over the fire till thoroughly
melted; put in the mushrooms_, a tea-spoonful of salt,
half as much pepper, and a blade of mace pounded ; stew
till the mushrooms are tender, then serve them on a hot
dish. They are usually sent in as a breakfast dish, thus
prepared in butter.

Mushrooms a la Crime. — Trim and rub half a pint of
button mushrooms, dissolve two ounces of butter rolled
in flour in a stew-pan ; then put in the mushrooms, a
bunch of parsley, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful
each of white pepj)er and of powdered sugar, shake the
pan round for ten minutes, then beat up the yolks of
two eggs, ^\\i\\ two table- spoonfuls of cream, and add by
degrees to the mushrooms ; in two or three minutes you
can serve them in the sauce.

MODES OF COOKING THE MUSHROOM. 103

Mushrooms on Toast. — Put a pint of mushrooms into
a stew-pan^ with two ounces of butter rolled in flour ; add
a tea- spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper,
a blade of mace powdered, and half a tea-spoonful of
grated lemon ; stew till the butter is all absorbed, then
add as much white roux as will moisten the mushrooms;
fry a slice of bread in butter, to fit the dish, and as soon
as the mushrooms are tender serve them on the toast.

To Pot Mushrooms. — The small open mushrooms suit
best for potting. Trim and rub them ; put into a stew-
pan a quart of mushrooms, three ounces of butter, two
tea-spoonfuls of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne
and mace mixed, and stew for ten or fifteen minutes, or
till the muslirooms are tender ; take them carefully out
and drain them perfectly on a sloping dish, and when
cold press them into small pots, and pour clarified butter
over them, in which state they will keep for a week or
two. If required to be longer preserved, put writing
paper over the butter, and over that melted suet, which
will effectually preserve them for many weeks, if kept in
a dry, cool place.

To Pickle Mushrooms. — Select a number of small,
sound, pasture mushrooms as nearly as possible alike in
size ; throw them for a few minutes into cold water ;
then drain them ; cut off the stalks, and gently rub off
the outer skin with a moist flannel dipped in salt ; then
boil the vinegar, adding to each quart two ounces of salt,

104 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

half a nutmeg sliced^ a drachm of mace^ and an ounce of
white pepper-corns ; put the mushrooms into the vinegar
for ten minutes over the fire ; then pour the whole into
small jars^ taking care that the spices are equally divided;
let them stand a day, then cover them.

Another Method. — In pickling mushrooms take the
buttons only and while they are quite close, cut the
stem off even with the gills and rub them quite clean.
Lay them in salt and water for forty- eight hours,
and then add pepper, and vinegar in which black pepper
and a little mace have been boiled. The vinegar
must be applied cold. So pickled they will keep for
years.

Mushrooms en Ragout. — Put into a stew-pan a little
stock, a small quantity of vinegar, parsley, and green
onions chopped up, salt, and spices. When this is about
to boil, the mushrooms being cleaned, put them in.
When done remove them from the fire, and thicken with
yolks of eggs.

Mushrooms and Toast. — Peel the mushrooms, and
take out the stems. Fry them over a quick fire. When
the butter is melted take off the pan. Squeeze the juice
of a lemon into it. Let the mushrooms fry again for
some minutes. Add salt, pepper, spices, and a spoonful
of water, in which a clove of garlic, having been cut
into pieces, has soaked for half an hour ; let it stew.
When the mushrooms are done, make a thickening of

MODES OF COOKING THE MUSHROOM. 105

yolks of eggs. Pour the muslirooms on bread fried in
butter, and laid in the dish ready for them.

Mushrooms en Caisse. — Peel the mushrooms lightly,
and cut them into pieces. Put them into cases of
buttered paper, with a bit of butter, parsley, green onions,
and shalots chopped up, salt and pepper. Dress them
on the gridiron over a gentle fire, and serve in the cases.

Mushrooms a la Provencale. — Take mushrooms of
good size. Remove the stems, and soak them in olive
oil. Cut up the stems with a clove of garlic and some
parsley. Add meat of sausages, and two yolks of eggs
to unite them. Dish the mushrooms, and garnish them
with the forcemeat. Sprinkle them with fine oil, and
dress them in an oven, or in a four de campafjne.

Baked Mushrooms. — Peel the tops of twenty mush-
rooms ; cut off a portion of the stalks, and wipe them
carefully with a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Lay the
mushrooms in a tin dish, put a small piece of butter on
the top of each, and season them with pepper and salt.
Set the dish in the oven, and bake them from twenty
minutes to half an hour. When done, arrange them
high in the centre of a very hot dish, pour the sauce
round them, and serve quickly, and as hot as you possibly
can.

Mushrooms au Gratin. — Take twelve large mushrooms
about two inches in diameter, pare the stalks, wash, and
drain the mushrooms on a cloth; cut off and chop the stalks.

106 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

Put in a quart stew-pan an ounceof butter and half an ounce
of flour ; stir over tlie fire for two minutes ; then add one
pint of broth ; stir till reduced to half the quantity.
Drain the chopped stalks of the mushrooms thoroughly
in a cloth ; put them in the sauce with three table-spoonfuls
of chopped and washed parsley^ one table-spoonful of
chopped and washed shalot_, two pinches of salt^ a small
pinch of pepper ; reduce on a brisk fire for eight minutes,
put two table-spoonfuls of oil in a saute pan ; set the mush-
rooms in, the hollow part upwards ; fill them with the
fine herbs, and sprinkle over them lightly a table-spoonful
of raspings; put in a brisk oven for ten minutes, and
serve.

Mushroom Soup. — Take a good quantity of mushrooms,
cut ofi* the earthy end, and pick and wash them. Stew
them with some butter, pepper, and salt in a little good
stock till tender; take them out, and chop them up
quite small ; prepare a good stock as for any other soup,
and add it to the mushrooms and the liquor they have
been stewed in. Boil all together, and serve. If white
soup be desired, use the white button mushrooms, and a
good veal stock, adding a spoonful of cream or a little
milk, as the colour may require.

The following ^' family receipts'^ have been commu-
nicated by a friend :

Clean a dozen or so of medium-sized, place two or
three ounces of nice clean beef-dripping in the frying-pan,

MODES OF COOKING THE MUSHROOM. 107

and with it a table-spoonful or more of nice beef gravy.
Set the pan on a gentle fire^ and as the dripping melts
place in the mushrooms, adding salt and pepper to taste.
In a few minutes they will be cooked, and being soaked
in the gravy and served upon a hot plate, will form a
capital dish. In the absence of grav}^_, a soupcon of
" extractum carnis^'' may be substituted.

Mushrooms with Bacon. — Take some full-grown mush-
rooms, and having cleaned them, procure a few rashers
of nice streaky bacon, and fry it in the usual manner.
"When nearly done, add a dozen or so of mushrooms, and
fry them slowly until they arc cooked. In this process
they will absorb all the fat of the bacon, and with the
addition of a little salt and pepper, will form a most ap-
petising breakfast relish.

Mushroom Stems, if young and fresh, make a capital
dish for those who arc not privileged to eat the mushrooms.
Rub them quite clean, and after washing them in salt and
water, slice them to the thickness of a shilling, then
place them in a saucepan with sufficient milk to stew them
tender; throw in a piece of butter and some flour for
thickening, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve upon a
toast of bread, in a hot dish, and add sippets of toasted
bread. This makes a light and very delicate supper dish,
and is not bad sauce to a boiled fowl.

108

CHAPTER XII.

SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDTBLE FUNGI.

" Whole hundredweights of rich, wholesome diet rotting under the
trees; woods teeming with food, and not one hand to gather it; and
this, perhaps, in the midst of potato-blight, poverty, and all manner of
privations, and public prayers against imminent famine."

Dr. Badham.

Valuable as is the common mushroom,, it is indispu-
table that not a few other kinds are also capable of af-
fording excellent food. Therefore, figures are given of
the most prevalent, useful, and easily recognised kinds of
edible fungi, as well as of the common mushrooms of our
gardens and markets. These figures have been admirably-
drawn by Mr. W. G. Smith, and are accompanied by
what seemed the most satisfactory accounts of the
characters and properties that are obtainable. The spores
which accompany the figures are uniformly enlarged
seven hundred diameters.

Marasmius oreades (Fairy-ring Champignon).

Pileus smooth, fleshy, convex, subumbonate, generally
more or less compressed, tough, coriaceous, elastic,
wrinkled ; when water- soaked, brown ; when dry, of a

EDIBLE FUNGI.

109

buff or cream-colour, the umbo often remaining red-
brown, as if scorched ; gills free, distant, ventricose, of
the same tint as the pileus, but more pale ; stem equal,
solid, twisted, very tough and fibrous, of a pale silky-
white colour.

Fig. 30— 1. ilfa;'a*miM5oreac?e5 (Fairy-ring Champignon). Pastures,
roadsides, and downs, in the autumn; colour, pale buff; gills broad
and far apart ; diameter, 1 to 2 inches.

Fig. 30 — 2. Marasmius urens (False Champignon). Woods and pas-
tures in the autumn; colour, pale buff ; gills narroto and croivded
together ; diameter, \ inch to 1^ inches.,

The fairy-ring agaric is a valuable little fungus, and
common on almost every lawn. In hilly pastures it

110 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

generally appears in broad brown patches^ either circular
or forming a portion of a circle.

M, wrens, the most acrid of all allied funguses^ usually
grows in woods^ though sometimes in the fairy-ring.
However, its flat top and narrow crowded gills cause it
to be readily distinguished anywhere.

Opinions on the Merits of Marasmius oreades as an
edible Fungus. — '^ On the Continent this species has long
been considered edible, but on account of its coriaceous
texture it is dried and employed in the form of powder,
to season various made-dishes.^^ — Dr. Greville,

^^ The common fairy-ring champignon is the best of
all our funguses, yet there is scarcely one person in a
thousand who dare venture to use it. "With common
observation no mistake need be made with regard to
it. It has an extremely fine flavour, and makes perhaps
the very best ketchup that there is.''^ — Rev. M. J.
Berkeley,

'^ An excellent flavour, as good as that of most fun-
guses."— Dr. Badham.

Modes of Cooking Marasmius oreades. — General Use. —
" Cut in small pieces and seasoned it makes an ex-
cellent addition to stews, hashes, or fried meats, but it
should only be added a few minutes before serving, as
the aroma is dissipated by over cooking. It is the
mushroom used in the Frencli a la mode beef-shops in
London." — Dr. Badham.

EDIBLE FUNGI. Ill

"When stewed, the champignons require rather longer
time to ensure their being made perfectly tender. They
are readily dried by removing the stems from the fungus,
threading them on a string, and hanging them up in a
dry airy place. ^' When dried, it may be kept for years
without losing any of its aroma or goodness, which, on
the contrary, becomes improved by the process, so as, in
fact, to impart more flavour to the dish than would have
been imparted by the fresh fungus ; though it is not to
be denied that the flesh then becomes coriaceous (or
tough), and less easy of digestion.^"' — Dr. Badham.

Champignon Powder. — Put the champignons in a stew-
pan with a little mace and a few cloves, and a sprinkling
of white pepper. Simmer, and shake constantly to pre-
vent burning, until any liquor that may exude is dried
up again. Dry thoroughly in a warm oven until they
will easily powder. Put the dried agaric, or the powder,
into wide-mouthed glass bottles, and store in a dry place.
It will keep any length of time. A tea-spoonful added
to any soup, or gravy, or sauce, just before the last boil
is given, will produce a very fine mushroom flavour.

Pickled Champignons. — Collect fresh buttons of the
fairy-ring agaric and use them at once. Cut oft' the
stems quite close and throw each one as you do so into a
basin of water in which a spoonful of salt has been put.
Drain them from it quickly afterwards, and place them
on a soft cloth to dry. For each quart of buttons thus

112 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

prepared, take nearly a quart of pale wMte wine vinegar,
and add to it a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, half an ounce of
whole white pepper, an ounce of ginger-root bruised, two
large blades of mace, and a fourth of a salt-spoon of
cayenne pepper tied in a small piece of muslin. When
this pickle boils throw in the agarics and boil them in it
over a clear fire moderately fast, from six to nine
minutes. When tolerably tender put them into warm
wide-mouthed bottles, and divide the spice equally
amongst them. When perfectly cold, cork well, or tie
skins and paper over them. Store in a dry place, and
keep out the frost.

Full-sized champignons may be pickled exactly in the
same way, but will require longer boiling, until indeed
they become tender. — Modified from Miss Acton.

Champignons quickly Pickled. — Place the prepared
buttons in bottles with a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of
pepper-corns, and a tea- spoonful of mustard seed in each,
and cover with the strongest white wine pickling vinegar
boiling hot. Cork or tie down as before, but do not
expect them to keep above three months.

EDIBLE FUNGI.

113

Ay aricus procerus (the Parasol Agaric).

Films fleshy^ ovate when young, then campanulate,
and afterwards expanded and umbonate (blunt pointed),
from three to seven inches across. Cuticle more or less
brown, entire over the umbo, but torn into patches, or

Fig. 31. Agmncus i^rocerus (Scaly Mushroom). Pastures, &c., in
autumn; colour, pale brownish buffj diameter, 5 to 12 inches.

scales which become more and more separated as they
approach the margin. Flesh white. Gills unconnected
with the stem, fixed to a collar on the pileus surrounding
its top. Ring persistent, loose on the stem. Stem six
or eight inches high, tapering upwards from a pear-like

I

114 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

bulb at the root, hollow with a loose pith, whitish
brown, but more or less variegated with small and close-
pressed scales.

Whenever an agaric on a long stalky enlarged at the
base, presents a dry cuticle more or less scaly, a darker
coloured umbonated top, a moveable ring, and white gills,
it must be Agaricus procerus, the parasol agaric, and
it may be gathered and eaten without fear. When the
whitish flesh of this agaric is bruised it shows a light
reddish colour.

There are but two other agarics that at all resemble
it, and both are edible. One about the same size is
Agaricus rachodes. It is not generally considered so
good in flavour as A, procerus. Mrs. Hussey, however,
says plainly, " If Agaricus procerus is the king of edible
funguses, Agaricus rachodes is an excellent viceroy.''^
The other is the Agaricus excoriatus, a very much smaller
fungus, with a more slender habit, a shorter stem, and
no true bulb at the base. This elegant little fungus is
also very good eating.

The parasol agaric has a very wide range of growth.
It is a common fungus, and is in high request all over the
Continent.

Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus procerus as an
Edible Fungus. — " A most excellent mushroom, of a
delicate flavour, and it must be considered a most useful
species. ^^ — The Rev. M. J. Berkeley,

EDIBLE EUNGI. 115

" Were its excellent qualities better known here^ they
could not fail to secure it a general reception into our
best kitchens, and a frequent place among our side
dishes at table." — Dr. Badham.

'' If once tried, it must please the most fastidious." —
Worthington G. Smith.

There can be no question but that, when young and
quickly grown, the parasol agaric is a delicious fungus.
It has a light and delicate flavour without the heavy
richness which belongs to the ordinary field mushroom.
The writer has prevailed on many persons to try it ; all
without exception have liked it, many have thought it
quite equal, and some have proclaimed it superior, to the
common mushroom.

Modes of Cooking the Agaricus procerus. — Broiled
Procerus. — Remove the scales and stalks from the
agarics, and broil lightly over a clear fire on both
sides for a few minutes ; arrange them on a dish over
fresh-made, well-divided toast ; sprinkle with pepper and
salt, and put a small piece of butter on each ; set before
a brisk fire to melt the butter, and serve up quickly.

If the cottager would toast his bacon over the broiled
muslirooms, the butter would be saved.

Agarics delicately Stewed. — Remove the stalks and
scales from young half- grown agarics, and throw each
one as you do so into a basin of fresh water slightly acidu-
lated with the juice of a lemon, or a little good vinegar.

i2

116 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

When all are prepared,, remove them from the water, and
put them into a stew-pan with a very small piece of fresh
butter. Sprinkle with white pepper and salt, and add
a little lemon-juice ; cover up closely, and stew for half
an hour. Then add a spoonful of flour, with sufficient
cream, or cream and milk, until the whole has the thick-
ness of cream. Season to taste, and stew again gently
until the agarics are perfectly tender. Remove all the
butter from the surface, and serve in a hot dish, garnished
with slices of lemon.

A little mace, nutmeg, or ketchup may be added ; but
there are those who think that spice spoils the mushroom
flavour.

Cottager's Procerus Pie. — Cut fresh agarics in small
pieces, and cover the bottom of a pie-dish. Pepper, salt,
and place them on small shreds of fresh bacon, then put in
a layer of mashed potatoes, and so fill the dish, layer by
layer, with a cover of mashed potatoes for the crust.
Bake well for half an hour, and brown before a quick fire.

A la ProvenqaJe. — ^^ Steep for two hours in some salt,
pepper, and a little garlic ; then toss in a small stew-pan
over a brisk fire, with parsley chopped, and a little lemon-
iuice.^^ — Dr. Badliam.

Agaric Ketchup. — Place agarics of as large a size as
you can procure, but which are not worm-eaten, layer
by layer, in a deep pan, sprinkling each layer as it is put
in with a little salt. The next day stir them well up

EDIBLE FUNGI. 117

several times, so as to mash and extract their juice.
On the third day strain off the liquor,, measure, and boil
for ten minutes, and then to every pint of the liquor
add half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter of an ounce
of bruised ginger-root, a blade of mace, a clove or two,
and a tea-spoonful of mustard- seed. Boil again for half
an hour ; put in two or three bay leaves, and set aside
till quite cold. Pass through a strainer, and bottle;
cork well, and dip the ends in resin. A very little Chili
vinegar is an improvement, and some add a glass of port
wine, or a glass of strong ale to every bottle.

Care should be taken that the spice is not added so
abundantly as to overpower the true flavour of the agaric.
A careful cook will keep back a little of the simple
boiled liquor to guard against this danger : a good one
will always avoid it. ^' Doctors weigh their things,^' said
a capital cook, " but I go by taste.^^ But then, like poets,
good cooks of this order must be born so ; they are not
to be made.

Coprinus comatus (the Maned Agaric).

Pileus cylindrical, obtuse, campanulate, fleshy in the
centre, but very thin towards the margin. The external
surface soon torn up into fleecy scales, with the exception
of a cap at the top. Gills free, linear, and crowded.
Quite white when young, becoming rose-coloured, sepia,

118

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

and then black, from tlie margin upwards. They then
expand quickly, curl up in slireds, and deliquesce into a
black inky fluid which stains the ground. Stem of a
pure white, four to live inches high, contracting at the
top, and bulbous at the base; hollow, fibrillose, stuffed

Fig. 32. Coprinus comatus (Maned Mushroom). Pastures, parks, and
roadsides, summer and autumn ; colour, snow-white ; height, 5 to 12
inches.

with a light cottony web. The bulb is solid and rooting,
the ring is movable.

This very elegant agaric has also been called Ag. cy-
lindricuSj Schceff; Ag. typhoides, Bull ; and Ag.fimetarius,
Bolt. It is common throughout the summer and autumn

EDIBLE FUNGI. 119

monthsj on road-sides^ pastures, and waste places. It is
extremely variable in size. Its general appearance is so
distinct and striking, that it cannot possibly be mistaken
for any other agaric. It grows so abundantly on waste
ground in the dwellings and farm-yards that it may be,
says Dr. Bull, called the ^' agaric of civilization /' and for
both these reasons it is most valuable as an edible agaric.
If its merits were known, it would be eaten as freely as
the common field mushroom.

" The maned mushrooms,^^ Miss Plues has well said,
'' grow in dense clusters, each young plant like an at-
tenuated e^^y white and smooth. Presently some exceed
the others in rapidity of growth, and their heads get
above the ground, the stem elongates rapidly, the ring
falls loosely round the stem, the margin of the pileus
enlarges, and the oval head assumes a beU-shape ; then
a faint tint of brown spreads universally or in blotches
over the upper part of the pileus, and the whiteness of
its gills changes to a dull pink. A few more hours and
the even head of the pileus has split in a dozen places,
the sections curl back, melt out of all form into an inky
fluid, and on the morrow^s dawn a black stain on the
ground will be all that remains. And so on with the
others in succession.'^

Opinions on the Merits of Coprinus comatus as an
Edible Fungus. — " Esculent when young." — Berkeley.

" Young specimens should be selected.'^ — Baclham,

120 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

" No despicable dish_, though perhaps not quite equal
to the common mushroom/'' — M, C. Cooke.

'' If I had my choice^ I think there is no species I
should prefer before this one : it is singularly rich^ tender,
and delicious/'' — Worthington G, Smith.

Dr. M^Cullough, Dr. Chapman^, Elmes Y. Steele, Esq.,
and some other members of the Woolhope Club, hold
Mr. W. G. Smithes opinion as the result of considerable
experience. It must be noted, however, that when too
young this agaric is rather deficient in flavour, and its
fibres tenacious. Its flavour is most rich, and its texture
most delicate when the gills show the pink colour with
sepia margins.

Modes of Cooking the Coprinus comatus. — The best and
simplest method is to broil it and serve on toast in the
ordinary way. It may be added also with great
advantage to steaks and made-dishes, to give flavour and
gravy.

Comatus Soup. — Take two quarts of Avhite stock, and
put in a large plateful of the maned agaric roughly
broken out; stew until tender; pulp through a fine
sieve ; add pepper and salt to taste ; boil and serve up
hot. Two or three table-spoonfuls of cream will be a
great improvement.

The agarics for this soup should be young, in order
to keep its colour light and good. The maned agaric
is recommended on all sides for making ketchup, but

EDIBLE FUXGI. 121

here^ alsOj it should be quickly used^ and tlie ketchup
quickly made.

Agaricus gambosus (the True St. Gcorge^s
Mushroom) .

Pileus thick and fleshy, convex at first, often lobed, be-
coming undulated and irregular, expanding unequally ; the
margin more or less involute, and at first flocculose ; from
three to four inches across ; of a light yellow colour in
the centre, fading to almost opaque white at the edges ;
it is soft to the touch ; more or less tuberculated, and
often presenting cracks. Gills yellowish-white, watery,
narrow, marginate, annexed to the stem with a little
tooth : they are very numerous and irregular, with many
smaller ones interposed, " lying over each other like the
plaits of a frilP (from 5 to 11, Vittadini). Steiii firm,
solid and white, swelling at the base in young specimens ;
but in older ones, though usually bulging, they are fre-
quently of even size, and when in long grass they
occasionally even taper downwards. This agaric is usually
nearly white, smooth, soft, and firm, like kid leather to
the touch, and, as Berkeley has happily said, " in ap-
pearance it very closely resembles a cracknel biscuit."

They grow in rings ; have a strong smell, and appear
about St. George's Day (April 23), after the rains which
usually fall about the third week in April. They con-

122

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

tinue to appear for three or four weeks,, according to
the peculiarities of the season. They are usually to be
found on hilly pastures in woodland districts.

The St. George^s mushroom cannot well be mistaken
for any other. The fact of its appearance at this early
season^ and growing so freely in rings^ when so very few

Fig. 33. Agaricus ffamhosus {St. George's Mushroom). Pastures,
in the spring ; colour, cream ; diameter, 4 to 6 inches.

other funguses are to be found, is almost enough to dis-
tinguish it. It has, however, very distinctive characters
in itself in the thickness of its pileus ; the narrowness of
its gills, which arc very closely crowded together ; and

the solid bulging stem.

EDIBLE FUNGI. 123

The St. George's mushroom is not au uncommon
agaric in this country, and where it does appear it is
usually plentiful — a single ring affording generally a good
basket full. It should be gathered when young, or it
will be found grub-eaten, for no fungus is more speedily
and more voraciously attacked by insects than this
one.

Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus gambosus as an
Edible Fungus. — ^' This rare and most delicious agaric, the
mouceron of Bulliard, and the Agaricus prunulus of other
authors, abounds on the hills above the valley of Stafora,
near Bobbio, where it is called Spinaroli, and is in great
request ; the country people eat it fresh in a variety of
ways, or they dry and sell it at from twelve to sixteen
francs a pound.'' — Letter from Professor Balbi to Persoon,

" The most savoury fungus with which I am ac-
quainted . . . and which is justly considered over almost
the whole continent of Europe as the ne plus ultra of
culinary friandise.^'

The prunulus (gambosus) is much prized in the
Roman market, where it easily fetches, when fresh,
thirty baiocchi — i.e., fifteen pence per pound — a large
sum for any luxury in Rome. It is sent in little baskets
as presents to patrons, fees to medical men, and bribes
to Roman lawyers." — Dr. Baclham.

The Agaricus gambosus " is one that a person cannot
well make any mistake about. It sometimes attains a

124 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

large size,, is excellent in flavour^ and particularly -whole-
some/''— Rev. M. J. Berkeley.

Mode of Cooking Agaricus gambosus. — " The best
mode of cooking Agaricus gambosus is either to
mince or fricassee it with any sort of meat, or in a voU
au-vent, the flavour of which it greatly improves ; or
simply prepared with salt^ pepper, and a small piece of
bacon, lard, or butter, to prevent burning, it constitutes
of itself an excellent dish/^ — Dr. Badham. ^^ Served
with white sauce, it is a capital appendage to roast veal/^
— Edivin Lees. It may be broiled, stewed, or baked.

Breakfast Agaric. — Place some fresh-made toast,
nicely divided, on a dish, and put the agarics upon
it; pepper, salt, and put a small piece of butter
on each ; then pour on each one a tea-spoonful of
milk or cream, and add a single clove to the whole
dish. Place a bell-glass, or inverted basin, over the
whole ; bake twenty minutes, and serve up without
removing the glass until it comes to the table, so as to
preserve the heat and the aroma, which, on lifting the
cover, will be diffused through the room. It dries very
readily when divided into pieces, and retains most of its
excellence. A few pieces added to soups, gravies, or made-
dishes, give a delicious flavour.

EDIBLE FUXGI.

125

Ayaricus ruhescens (Brown Warty Agaric).

Pileus convex, tlien expanded, cuticle brown, scattered
over witli warts, varying in size. Margin striate. Gills
wHte, reaching the stem, and forming very fine decurrent

r\:^

Fig. 34. Againcus ruhescens (Red-fleshed Mushroom). Woods, sum-
mer and autumn ; colour, sienna-brown ; diameter, 4 to 10 inches.

lines upon it. Rinr/ entire, wide and marked with striae.
Stem often scaly, stuffed, becoming hollow ; when old,
bulbous. Yolva obliterated. The whole plant has a
tendency to turn a sienna-red, or rust colour. This is

126 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

very distinctly shown some little time after it has been
bruised.

It is very common all through the summer and autumn
months ; indeed, one of the most abundant mushrooms ;
" and it is one of those species that a person with the
slightest powers of discrimination may distinguish accu-
rately from others.'^ — Badham.

Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus rubescens as an
Edible Fungus. — " A very delicate fungus, which grows
in sufficient abundance to render it of importance in a
culinary point of view.^^ — Badham.

i( From long experience I can vouch for its being not
only wholesome, but, as Dr. Badham says, * a very delicate
fungus.^ ^' — F. Currey, Editor of Dr. Badham^'s ^' Esculent
Eunguses.^'

Modes of Cooking the Agaricus rubescens. — It may be
toasted, boiled, or stewed in the ordinary way.

Fried Rubescens. — Place the full-grown agarics in water
for ten minutes, then drain, and having removed the
warty skin, fry with butter, pepper, and salt. The ketch-
up made from Agaricus rubescens is rich and good.
'^ As it grows freely, and attains a considerable size,
it is very suitable for that purpose, qiiantity being a
great desideratum in ketchup-making." — Plues,

EDIBLE FUNGI.

127

Agaricus nebularis (Cloiicled Mushroom).

'^ Pileus from two and a half to five inches across ; at
first depresso-convex ; when expanded, nearly flat or
broadly subumbonate ; never depressed j margin at first

Fig. 35. Agaricus nelularis (Clouded Mushroom). Woody places, In
autumn ; colour, cream, with slate-coloured top ; diameter, 4 to 10
inches.

involute and pruinose ; occasionally somewhat waved and
lobcd, but generally regular in form ; smooth, viscid
when moist, so that dead leaves adhere to it ; grey, brown
at tlie centre, paler towards the circumference. Flesh
thick^ white, unchanging. Gills cream-colour, narrow,

128 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

clecurrent^ close, their margins waved_, unequal, generally
simple. Stem from two to four inches long, from a
quarter of an inch to an inch thick ; incurved at the base ;
not rooting, but attaching by means of a floccose down
round its lower portion and for one-third of its length,
a large quantity of dead leaves, by which the plant is
held erect ; subequal, more or less marked with longitu-
dinal pits, firm externally, within of a softer substance.
The odour strong, like that of curd cheese.^' — Badham.

" Common in certain places, but very rare near
London. This species comes up late in the autumn on
dead leaves in moist places, principally on the borders
of woods. The gastronomic excellences of this species
are well known. When gathered, it has a wholesome
and powerful odour ; and when cooked, the firm and
fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable
taste.''— -^. G. Smith.

" The Ayaricus nebularis requires but little cooking ;
a few minutes' broiling {a la Maintenon is best), with
butter, pepper, and salt, is sufficient. It may also be
delicately fried with bread crumbs, or stewed in white
sauce. The flesh of this mushroom is perhaps lighter
of digestion than that of any other." — Badham,

EDIBLE FUNGI.

129

Lact alius deliciosus (Orange-milk Musliroom).

Films smooth, fleshy, umbilicate, of a dull rufous
orange, turning pallid from exposure to light and air,
but zoned with concentric circles of a brighter hue ;

Fig. 36. Lactarius deliciosus (Orange-milk Mushroom). Under fir-
trees, in autumn ; colour, brown-orange ; milk at first orange, then
green; diameter, 3 to 10 inches.

margin smooth, at first involute, and then becoming ex-
panded ; from tlirce to five inches across. Flesh firm,
full of orange-red milk, which turns green on exposure
to the air, as does any part of the plant wlien bruised.

K

130 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

Gills cleciirrent, narrow^, each dividing into twp^ three
several times from the stem to the edge of the pileus ;
of a dull yellow by reflected light,, but being translucent,
the red milk shines brightly through them. Stem from
one to thi'ee inches high;, slightly bent and tapering
downwards ; solid, becoming more or less hollow with
age ; short hairs at the base ; sometimes pitted (scrobi-
culate) .

There is no possibility of mistaking this fungus. It
is the only one which has orange-red milky and which turns
green lohen bruised. These properties distinguish it at
once from Lactarius torminosus or necatorj the only
fungus which in any way resembles it.

This acrid fungus {Lactarius torminosus) is somewhat
similar in shape and size, and is also zoned. But the
involute edges of the pileus are bearded with close hairs.
It is of a much paler colour, and with gills of a dirty
white. The milk, also, is white, acrid, and unchangeable
in colour.

The Orange-milk agaric chiefly affects the Scotch fir-
tree, and is generally to be found beneath the drip of
the branches around the tree. It is also found in hedge-
rows occasionally, but is most abundant in plantations of
Scotch fir or larch.

Opinions on the Merits of Lactarius deliciosus as an
Edible Fungus. — " This is one of the best agarics with
which I am acquainted, fully deserving both its name

EDIBLE FUNGI. 131

and the estimation in wliicli it is held abroad. It
reminds me of tender lambs'* kidneys.'''' — Dr. Badham.

" Very luseious eating, full of rich gra\y, with a little
of the flavour of mussels/^ — Sowerby.

" Cook them well^ and you will have something better
than kidneys, which they much resemble both in flavour
and consistence.^^ — Mrs. Hussey.

Modes of Cooking Ladarius deliciosus. — " The rich
gravy it produces is its chief characteristic, and hence
it commends itself to make a rich gravy sauce, or
as an ingredient in soups. It requires delicate
cooking, for though fleshy it becomes tough if kept on
the fire till all the juice is exuded. Baking is perhaps
the best process for this agaric to pass through. It
should be dressed when fresh and pulpy.^^ — Edwin Lees.

Stewed Deliciosus. — " The tourtiere (or pie-dish)
method 'of cooking suits Lactarius deliciosus best,
as it is firm and crisp in substance. Be careful to
use only sound specimens. Reduce them by cutting
across to one uniform bulk. Place the pieces in a
pie-dish, with a little pepper and salt, and a small
piece of butter on each side of every slice. Tie a
paper over the dish, and bake gently for three-quarters
of an hour. Serve them up in tjie same hot dish." —
Mrs. Hussey.

Deliciosus Pie. — Pepper and salt slices of the agaric,
and place tliem in layers with thin slices of fresh

K 2

132 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

bacon, until a small pie-dish is full ; cover with a crust
of pastry or mashed potatoes, and bake gently for three-
quarters of an hour. If with potato crust, brown nicely
before a quick fire.

Deliciosus Pudding. — Cut the agaric into small pieces ;
add similar pieces of bacon, pepper, and salt, and a little
garlic or spice; surround with crust, and boil three-
quarters of an hour.

Fried Deliciosus. — Fry in slices, properly seasoned
with butter, or bacon and gravy ; and serve up hot with
sippets of toast. A steak in addition is a great im-
provement.

Morchella esculent a (the Morel).

Every one knows the Morel — that expensive luxury
which the rich are content to procure at great cost from
our Italian warehouses, and the poor are fain to do with-
out. It is less generally known that this fungus, though
by no means so common with us as some others (a cir-
cumstance partly attributable to the prevailing ignorance
as to when and where to look for it, or even of its being
indigenous to England), occurs not unfrequently in our
orchards and woods, towards the beginning of summer.
Roques reports favourably of some specimens sent to him
by the Duke of Athol ; and others, from different parts
of the country, occasionally find their way into Covent

EDIBLE FUNGI.

133

Garden Market. The genus Morchella comprises very
few species, and they are all good to eat. Persoon
remarks, that though the Morel rarely appears in a
sandy soil, preferring a calcareous or argillaceous ground,
it frequently springs up on sites where charcoal has been
burnt, or where cinders have been thrown.

Fig. 37. Morchella esrulenla (the Morel). Woods, &.c., in the spring;
colour, pale buff; height, 3 to 5 inches.

Pileus very various in shape and hue, the surface
broken-up into very little cells, made by folds or plaits
of the hymenium, which are more or less salient, and
constitute the so-called ribs. These ribs are very irre-
gular, and anastomose with each other throughout ; the

134 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

pileus hollow, opening into the irregular stem. Spores
pale yellow. Neither of these funguses should be
gathered after rain, as they are then insipid and soon
spoil.

^^ M. Koques says the Morel may be dressed in a
variety of ways, both fresh and dry, with butter or in oil,
au gras or a la creme. The following receipts for cook-
ing them are from Persoon. 1st. Having washed and
cleansed them from the earth which is apt to collect
between the plaits, dry thoroughly in a napkin, and put
them into a saucepan with pepper, salt, and parsley,
adding or not a piece of ham ; stew for an hour, pouring
in occasionally a little broth to prevent burning ; when
sufficiently done, bind with the yolk of two or three
eggs, and serve on buttered toast. 2nd. Morelles a
ritalienne. — Having washed and dried, divide them across,
put them on the fire with some parsley, scallion, chervil,
burnet, tarragon, chives, a little salt, and two spoonfuls
of fine oil. Stew till the juice runs out, then thicken
with a little flour; serve with bread-crumbs and a
squeeze of lemon. 3rd. Stuffed Morels. — Choose the
freshest and whitest morels, open the stalk at the bot-
tom, wash and wipe them well, fill with veal stuffing,
anchovy, or any icich. farce you please, securing the ends,
and dressing between thin slices of bacon ; serve with a
sauce like the last.^^ — Badham,

EDIBLE FUNGI.

135

Hygrophorus pratensis.

" Pileiis convexo-plane, then turbinate^ smooth, moist ;
disc compact, gibbous ; margin thin ; stem stuffed, even,
attenuated downwards; giHs deeply decurrent, arcuate,
thick, distant/'— Grev. t. 91 ; Huss. II. t. 40.

Fig. 38 (1). Hygrophorus pratensis. Pastures, in autumn ; colour, full
buff ; diameter, 2 to 3 inches.

Fig. 38 (2). Hygrophorus virgineus (Viscid White Mushroom). Pas-
tures, in autumn; snow-white; diameter, \ inch to 1^ inches.

" On downs and short pastures. Very common. P ileus
tawny or deep buff, sometimes nearly white, as in the
next. Probably esculent. '^ — Berkeley,

136 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

Hygropliorus virgineiis (Viscid White Mushroom).

" Pileus fleshy, convexo-plane, obtuse, moist, at length
areolato-rimose ; stem stufifecl, Arm, short, attenuated
at the base; gills decurrent, distant, rather thick .^^ —
Grev, 1. 166. " On downs and short pastures. Extremely
common. Mostly pure ivory-white.^^ — Berkeley.

This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of
the prettiest ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short
pastures at the fall of the year. In these situations it
may be found in every part of the kingdom. It is essen-
tially waxy J and feels and looks precisely as if made of
the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuff'ed, and
attenuated, and the gills singularly distant from each
other ; it changes colour a little when getting old, at
which time it is unfit for culinary purposes.

A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with
taste and care, will prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous
eating, and may sometimes be obtained when other
species are not forthcoming.

^' Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being
esculent, notably H, niveus ; and my friend Mr. F. C.
Penrose has eaten, and speaks favourably of H,
psittacinus — a highly ornamental yellow species, with
a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich
pastures (and said to be very suspicious) .^^ — W. G.
Smith.

EDIBLE FUNGI.

137

Cantharelliis cibarius (Chantarelle).

"When young its stalk is tough, white, and solid;
hut as it grows this heeomes hollow and presently
changes to yellow ; tapering below, it is effused into the
substance of the pileus, which is of the same colour with

Fig. 39. Cantharellus W6<zWw5 (Chantarelle). "Woods, autumn ;
rich golden 3'ellow ; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.

it. The pileus is lobcd, and irregular in shape ; its
margin at first deeply involute, afterwards when ex-
panded, wavy. The veins or plaits are thick, subdistant,
much sinuated, running some way down the stalk. The

138 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

flesh is white, fibrous_, dense, " having the odour of
apricots'' [Purton) or of ^' plums'' ( Vitt.) . " The colour
yellow, like that of the yolk of eggs, is deeper on the under
surface ; when raw it has the pungent taste of pepper :
the spores, which are elliptic, are of a pallid ochre colour."
{Vitt.) The Chantarelle grows sometimes sporadically,
sometimes in circles or segments of a circle, and may be
found from June to October. At first it assumes the
shape of a minute cone : next, in consequence of the
rolling in of the margin, the pileus is almost spherical,
but as this unfolds it becomes hemispherical, then flat,
at length irregular and depressed.

" This fungus," observes Vittadini, " being rather dry
and tough by nature, requires a considerable quantity of
fluid sauce to cook it properly." '' The common people
in Italy dry or pickle, or keep it in oil for winter use.
Perhaps the best ways of dressing the Cantharelle are
to stew or mince it by itself, or to combine it with meat
or with other funguses. It requires to be gently stewed,
and a long time to make it tender ; but by soaking it in.
milk the night before, less cooking will be requisite." —
Badham,

EDIBLE rUNGI.

139

Hydnum repandum (Hedgehog, or Spine-bearing
Muskroom) .

Pileus smooth, irregular in shape, depressed in the
centre, more or less lobed, and generally placed irregularly
on the stem (eccentric) ; of a pale buff or cinnamon

(1^

Fig. 40. Hydnum repandum (Spine-bearing Mushroom). Woods,
autumn; colour, pale buff; diameter, 2 to 5 inches.

colour ; from two to five inches in diameter. Flesh
firm and white ; when bruised it turns slightly brown.
Spines crowded, awl-shaped, slanting, soft and brittle,

140 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

varying in size and length, and of a faint cinnamon tint.
Stem white^ shorty solid^ crooked, and often lateral.

There is no possibility of mistaking the hedgehog
mushroom : when once seen it is always to be remembered.
Its aw] -shaped spines are crowded beneath the pileus ; its
size and colour are most marked; it resembles closely,
as has been said, a lightly-baked cracknel biscuit in colour.

*^ This fungus occurs principally in woods, and especially
in those of pine and oak ; sometimes solitary, but more
frequently in company and in rings/^ — Badham,

Opinions on the Merits of Hydnum repandum as an
Edible Fungus. — " The general use of this fungus through-
out France, Italy, and Germany, leaves no room for
doubt as to its good qualities." — Rogues.

" When well stewed it is an excellent dish, with a
slight flavour of oysters. It makes also a very good
puree. — Dr. Badham.

"A most excellent fungus, but it requires a little
caution in preparation for the table. It should be
previously steeped in hot water and well drained in a
cloth ; in which case there is certainly not a more ex-
cellent fungus." — Berkeley.

" A wholesome fungus and not to be despised ; but
not in the first class as to flavour, requiring the help of
condiments. It has the advantage, however, of growing
later than most funguses, and may be found up to the
middle of November." — Edtvin Lees.

EDIBLE FUNGI. 141

" One of the most excellent fungi that grows j its
flavour veiy strongly resembles oysters/^ — The Rev. W.
Houghton.

Modes of Cooking Hydnum repandum. — The hedgehog
mushroom is dense in structure^ and in whatever way
it may be cooked, all authorities agree that it must
be done slowly at a low temperature until it is tender,
and with plenty of stock or white sauce to supply its
deficiency in moisture.

Stewed Hydnum. — '^ Cut the mushrooms in pieces and
steep for twenty minutes in warm water ; then place in
a pan with butter, pepper, salt, and parsley ; add beef or
other gravy, and simmer for an hour/^ — Trans, from M.
Rogues.

" Stew in a brown or white sauce/' — Mrs. Hussey.

" Cut up in bits about the size of a bean, and stew in
white sauce, when it will almost pass off as oyster sauce/'
—The Rev. W. Houghton, F.L.S.

Agaricus orceUa (Orgelle or Vegetable Sweetbread).

Pileus thin, irregular, depressed in the centre, lobed,
with undulated borders, from two to three inches across.
In colour clear white, sometimes tinted with pale brown
on its prominences, and occasionally with a grey centre
or even lightly zoned with grey. Its surface is soft and
smooth to the touch, except in wet weather, when it

142

MUSHROOM CULTURE.

becomes soft and sticky. The flesh is soft, colourless,
and unchangeable. Gills crowded, decurrent, at first
nearly white, then pinkish grey, taking at length a light
brown tint. Spores pale brown. Stem smooth, solid,
short, decreasing in size; central when young, but

rig. 41. (1) Agaricus orcella and (2) Agaricus 2)runulus (Plum Mush-
room). Woody places, in autumn ; colour, snow-white, with pale
rose gills ; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.

becoming eccentric from the pileus growing irregularly.
Odour pleasant, usually compared to that of fresh meal,
but Dr. Badham and others think it resembles more
closely the smell of cucumber or syringa leaf.

EDIBLE FUNGI. 143

Agaricus prunulus (Plum Mushroom).

Pileus fleshy, compact, at first convex, then expanded,
becoming depressed in the centre, irregularly waved, and
slightly pruinose ; from two to five inches broad ; surface
dry, soft, white, or sometimes grey. The flesh thick,
white, and unchangeable. Gills crowded, deeply decur-
rent, at first white, then a jmle dull flesh-colour, or yel-
lowish brown. Spores pale brown. Ste?n white, solid,
firm, slightly ventricose, an inch or more long, and half
an inch thick ; naked, often striate, and villose at the
base ; often eccentric. Odour like that of new meal, but
usually too strong to be agreeable.

There has been considerable confusion, writes Dr. Bull,
between the two Agarics orcella and prunulus; some think-
ing that we have only orcella in England (Dr. Badham) ;
and others only prunulus (the Rev, M. J. Berkeley) , and
others again that they are both the same fungus, difiering
only in size. Dr. Badham and some others again confuse
prunulus with gambosuSy the fungus of early spring, and
this has arisen from the French term mousseron being
often applied to both these funguses ; but they are so
essentially different as not to be liable in any way to be
mistaken for each other. Agaricus orcella and A.
prunulus are both placed on the same page in the illus-
tration, so that their close alliance may be seen at a

144 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

glance. Fries treats tliem as separate funguses, '^ in
deference to ancient authority, since their differences are
chiefly in degree/^ These differences are, nevertheless,
so well marked, that they are kept separate here.
Orcella is a smaller and more delicate fungus than
prunulus. It is thinner and less fleshy, more undulated
in its borders, and has a lighter and more agreeable
odour. Orcella grows in more open glades i\i2in. prunulus ;
it is usually much whiter in colour, sometimes in high
situations white and glazed as an egg-shell, or even pottery.
Orcella grows more solitary than prunulus, in light, scat-
tered groups, showing an inclination for the neighbour-
hood of oak-trees, and where it does grow it may be
found year after year in the same place, but seldom
more than two or three in a spot. Last year, 1869,
when orcella was pretty plentiful, prunulus was not to be
found in the situations where it grows usually most abun-
dantly. Prunulus is the reverse of all this. It prefers
more shaded places, is larger, more fleshy, and with a
strong odour rather heavy and overpowering. It grows
in greater quantities together, and not unfrequently in
crowded rings from four to six feet in diameter.

As edible funguses they should certainly be kept
distinct. Orcella is light and pleasant in odour, and
excellent in flavour : it is so tender and delicate as to
be teiTned, not inaptly, ''^ vegetable sweetbread.'^ Pru-
nulus, on the other hand, though always good, is to

EDIBLE rUNGT. 145

many people too strong in odour_, and more coarse in
taste.

Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus orcella and A. pru-
nulus. — '^ A very delicate mushroom/'' — Dr.Badham. "The
flavour of orcella is very delicate, and equal to anything
amongst fungi, or rather superior to the majority. The
same remarks apply to prunulus, which I think is the same
thing. It belongs to the first rank of edible fungi/' —
Edwin Lees.

Modes of Cooking Agaricus orcella and Agaricus pru-
nulus.— Orcella being usually found in small quantities, is
best, perhaps, when broiled and served on hot toast. Pru-
nulus will yield an abundance for broiling or stewing, or
both. " Orcella should be eaten the day it is gathered,
either stewed, broiled, or fried with egg and bread-crumbs
like cutlets." — Dr. Badham. ^^ However prepared,it is most
excellent ; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour,
and "v^hether broiled or stewed, it is a most delicious
morsel.^' — Worthington G. Smith. " Orcella will dry^ and
may be presened in this way. It loses much of its volume,
but it acquires un aroma suavissimo '^ — Vittadini. From
the Transactions of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club.

Edible Fungi in America. — To give an idea of the rich
stores of fungi that spring up in some distant parts of the
earth, and in climes so difi*erent to ours that one would at
first sight suppose such fragile and fugacious bodies as
fungi would not abound in them, the following intcrcst-

L

146 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

ing communication from Dr. Curtis, of South Carolina, to
the Rev. W. Berkeley is here given. It will prove well
worthy the attention of American readers : —

^^ You have asked me to give you my ^ experience with
the eatable mushrooms of America.^ This will be most
satisfactorily done, I presume, in pretty much the same
style in which I would narrate it to you at your own
fireside. My experience runs back only about twelve or
fifteen years. You may remember that previous to
this period I expressed a fear of these edibles, as I had
grown up with the common prejudices against them en-
tertained by most people in this country. Having
occasionally read of fearful accidents^ from their use, and
there being abundance of other and wholesome food
obtainable, I felt no inclination to run any risks in need-
lessly enlarging my bill of fare. Thus I had passed middle
life without having once even tasted a mushroom.

^^ But as under your guidance and assistance my know-
ledge of fungi increased, a confidence in my ability to
discriminate species grew up with it, and a curiosity
to test the qualities of these much-lauded articles got the
better of timidity ; and now, I suppose, I can safely
say, that I have eaten a greater variety of mushrooms
than anyone on the American continent. I have even
introduced several species before untried and unknown.
From the beginning of my experiments, however, I have
exercised great caution, even with species long recognised

EDIBLE EUNGI. 147

as safe and wholesome. In every case I began with only
a single mouthful. No ill effect following, I made a
second essay upon two or three mouthfuls, and so on
gradually until I made a full meal of them. Fortunately,
I have never blundered upon any kind that was mis-
chievous, although I have eaten freely of forty species.
This is due, perhaps, to my general acquaintance with
species that have been long used in Europe, and hence I
have made no experiments upon new species which had
not some affinity or analogy with them.

" For instance, A. campestrisaindA.arvensis being whole-
some, I did not doubt but that A. amyfjdalinus (a new
species closely allied to A. arvensis) might be safely at-
tempted, and it has proved equally safe and palatable.
Indeed, this may be regarded as the safest of all species
for gathering, as it can be discriminated from all others
even by a child or a blind person. Its taste and odour
are so very like those of peach kernels or bitter almonds,
that almost invariably the resemblance is immediately
mentioned by those who taste it crude for the first time.
This flavour is lost by cooking, unless the mushroom be
underdone. When thoroughly cooked I cannot myself
distinguish it from A. campestris. One or two persons
have expressed the opinion that they can distinguish it,
and that it is not quite so good. Others, again, arc
equally positive that it is better. In the crude state I
deem it the most palatable of all mushrooms, as it leaves

L 2

148 MUSHROOM CULTrHE.

a very agreeable aftertaste upon the palate, fully equal to
that of almonds. Tliis is the thing I sent you some years
since for cultivation,, but which failed to grow. I very much
Tvish it might be propagated in England, so that we might
ascertain whether it would undergo any change of qualities
in a different soil and climate. I have for some time
been entertaining the suspicion that such is the case with
many of our species. Thus, in European books the Morel
is described as possessing a peculiar flavour, that has
given its name to the Morello cherry. I can detect no-
thing of the sort in our morel. You speak of A. Casareus
(in Introd. Crypt. Bot.) as being ' perhaps the most de-
licious of all fungi.^ This grows in great quantities in
our oak-forests, and may be obtained by the cartload in its
season ; but to my taste, and that of all my family, it is
the most unpalatable of all our fungi, nor can I find
many of our most passionate mycophagists who will avow
that they like it. I have tried it in almost every mode of
cookery, but without success. There is a disagreeable
saline flavour that we cannot remove nor overlay.

" In the Tricholoma section, in which are several species
long known as edible, I did not hesitate to experiment
upon any that had the odour and taste of fresh flour. I
began with A. frumentaceus^ not learning from books
whether it had been eaten in Europe. To this I sub-
sequently added three new American species belonging to
the same group. All are excellent when stewed, and are

EDIBLE FUNGI. 149

especially valuable for tlieir appearance in late autumnjCven
during hard frosts, when other agarics are mostly out of
season.

'^ Again, there seemed such a similarity of texture
and habit between A. ccespitosus [Lentinus, Berk.) and
J. melleus, although the former belongs to Clitocybej ihut
the temptation to a trial of it was irresistible. As it is
found here in enormous quantities, and a single cluster
will often contain fifty to a hundred stems, it might well
be deemed a valuable species in a time of scarcity. It
would not be highly esteemed where other and better
sorts can be had ; but it is generally preferred to A,
melleus. I have found this species very suitable for dry-
ing for winter use.

" Among the Boleti I ventured, in ignorance if it had
ever been eaten, to try B. collinitus, on account of its close
relationship with B. flavidus. I am not particularly fond
of Boleti, but this species has been pronounced delicious
by some to whom I have sent it.

'^ So among the Polypores, I had no fear of harm from
the use of a new American species (P. poripes, Fr.), on
account of its relation to P. ovinus, in its texture and its
flavom*. The taste of the crude specimen is like that of the
best chestnuts or filberts. It has been compared even with
the cocoa-nut, and is certainly of very agreeable flavour. It
does not, however, make a superior dish for the table,bciug
rather too dry, but it is innocent and probably nutritious.

150 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

" Of the ^ Merisma ' group of Polypores, having already
tried P.frondosus, P. confluens, and P. sulfureus, I ventured,
after some hesitation, and with more than usual caution,
to test the virtues of a new American species (P. Ber-
keleij Fr.), notwithstanding the intense pungency of the
raw material, which bites as fiercely as Lactarius pipe-
ratus. "When young, and before the pores are visible,
the substance is quite crisp and brittle, and in this state
I have eaten it with impunity and with satisfaction, its
pungency being all dissipated by stewing. I do not,
however, deem it comparable with P. confluens, which is
rather a favourite with me, as it is with some others to
whom I have introduced it. P. sulfureus is just tole-
rable ; safe, but not to be coveted when one can get better.
When I say safe, I mean not poisonous. I cannot re-
commend it as a diet for weak stomachs, which should be
said of some other fungi of similar texture. I am here
reminded of an experience I had three or four years ago
with this species, which would have greatly alarmed me
had it happened at an earlier date in my experiments, and
which would probably have deterred anyone unused to
this kind of diet from ever indulging in it again. I had
a sumptuous dish of it on my supper-table, of which
most of my family, as well as a guest staying with us, par-
took very freely. During the night I became exceedingly
sick, and was not relieved until relieved of my supper.
My first thought on the iiccession of my illness was of Fohj-

EDIBLE FUNGI. 151

porus sulfureus ; but as I remembered that inflammation
was one of the symptoms of fungus-poisoning, and I could
detect no indications of this in my case, I soon dismissed
the rising fear, did not send for the doctor, nor take any
remedy. Others, who had partaken of the fungus more
freely than myself were not at all affected ; and I presume
my sickness was no more induced by the Polyporus than
by the bread and butter 1 had eaten. And yet, had I
alone partaken of the dish, or had one or two others been
affected in like manner, doubtless the night attack would
have been very confidently attributed by some to the
mushroom ; or had this been my first trial of that article^
possibly I might ever after have regarded it with suspi-
cion. I learned a few days afterwards from one of our
physicians, that this kind of sickness was then somewhat
prevalent in the community, and could be attributed to
no known cause. For the credit of this species, therefore,
we were fortunately able to distinguish the post hoc from
the propter hoc.

" There are families in America that for generations
have freely and annually eaten mushrooms, preserving a
habit brought from Europe by their ancestors. In no case
have 1 heard of an accident among them. I have known
no instance of mushroom-poisoning in this country,
except where the victims rashly ventured upon the ex-
periment without knowing one species from another.
Among the families above mentioned, I have not met

152 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

with any whose knowledge of mushrooms extended beyond
the common species {A. campestris), called pink gill in this
country. Several such families live near me, but not one
of them was aware, until I informed them, that there
are other edible kinds. Everything but the pink gill,
which had the form of a mushroom, was to them a toad-
stool, and poisonous. When I first sent my son with
a fine basket of Imperials {A. Ccesareus), to an intelligent
physician, who was extravagantly fond of the common
mushroom, the lad was greeted with the indignant ex-
clamation, ^ Poy, I wouldn^t eat one of those things to
save your father''s head V When told that they were
eaten at my table, he accepted them, ate them, and. has
eaten many a one since, with all safety and with no little
relish. Since that time our mycophagists eat whatever
I send them, without fear or suspicion.

" I have interested myself to extend the knowledge
of these things among the lovers of mushrooms, and also
their use among those who have not before tried them.
In the latter work I am not always successful, on account
of a strong prejudice against vegetables with such con-
temptible names, and an unconquerable fear of accidents.
Yet, as in my own case, curiosity often conquers these
errors. When away from home I have frequently ob-
tained permission from a kind hostess to have cooked a
dish of mushrooms that I have found on her premises.
If. has rarely occurred, in such cases that the dish, then

EDIBLE FUNGI. 153

tasted for the first time, was not declared to be delicious,
or the best thing ever put in the mouth. This latter
phrase was once used in reference to so indifferent an
article as A. salignus. Indeed, I have found several per-
sons who class this amongst the most palatable species.
To such persons a dish of fresh mushrooms need seldom
be wanting, as this one can be had every month of the
year in this latitude. I am induced to believe that the
quality of this species varies with the kind of wood it
grows from, and that it is better flavoured when gathered
from the mulberry, and especially from the hickory, than
when taken from most other trees. Its fitness for the
table seems also to depend much upon the rapidity of its
growth ; those which grow slowly, as is the case with
some of our garden vegetables, being of tougher texture
and of less delicate flavour. A warm sun after heavy
rains brings them out in greatest perfection.

^^ I have several times been asked by persons eating
mushrooms for the first time, whether these things belong
to the vegetable or animal kingdom. There is certainly
a very noticeable resemblance in the flavour of some of
them to that of flesh, fish, or mollusc, so that the question,
as founded merely on taste, is not an unnatural one. But
I was much struck with its propriety when reading an
article in ' Fraser's Magazine,^ a few years since, written
by the late Mr. Brodcrip, who therein says that mush-
rooms contain osmazome. If this be so, it accounts

154 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

both for their flavour and for their value as food. Of
this latter quality I had become so well convinced that^
during our late war^ I sometimes averred,, and I doubt
if there was much^ if any^ exaggeration in the assertion^
that in some parts of the country I could maintain a
regiment of soldiers five months of the year upon
mushrooms alone.

'^ This leads to a remark which should not be over-
looked^ upon the great abundance of eatable mushrooms
in the United States. I think it is Dr. Badham who
boasts of their unusual number in Great Britain^ stating
that there are thirty edible species in that kingdom. I
cannot help thinking that this is an under-estimate.
But if the Doctor is correct^ there is no comparison
between the number in your country and this. I have
collected and eaten forty species found within two miles
of my house. There are some others within this limit
which I have not yet eaten. In the catalogue of the
plants of North Carolina^ you will notice that I have
indicated one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi
known to inhabit this State. I have no doubt there are
forty or fifty more, as the alpine portion of the State,
which is very extensive and varied, has been very little
explored in search of fungi.

•^ In October^ 1866, while on the Cumberland Moun-
tains in Tennessee, a plateau less than 1000 feet above the
valleys below, although havingvery little leisure for exami-

EDIBLE FUNGI. 155

nation during the two days spent tliere^ I counted
eighteen species of edible fungi. Of the four or five
species which I collected there for the table^ all who
partook of them, none of whom had before eaten mush-
rooms, most emphatically declared them delicious. On
my return homeward_, w^hile stopping for a few hours at
a station in Virginia, I gathered eight good species
within a few hundred yards of the depot. And so it
seems to be throughout the country. Hill and plain,
mountain and valley^ woods, fields, and pastures, swarm
T\'ith a profusion of good, nutritious fungi, which are
allowed to decay where they spring up, because people
do not know how, or are afraid, to use them. By those
of us who know their use their value was appreciated,
as never before, during our late war, when other food,
especially meat, was scarce and dear. Then such persons
as I have heard express a preference for mushrooms over
meat had generally no need to lack grateful food, as it
was easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance
of their homes if living in the country. Such was not
always the case, however. I remember on one occasion
during the gloomy period, whca there had been a pro-
tracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found only
in damp, shaded woods, and but few' even there, I was
unable to find enough of any one species for a meal ; so
gathering of every kind, I brought home thirteen dif-
ferent kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand

156 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

pot pourrij and made an excellent supper. Among these
was the Chantarellc^, upon which I would say a few
words in confirmation of what I have already said upon
the varying qualities of mushrooms in different regions
and localities. You have somewhere written of this
mushroom as being so highly esteemed a delicacy, that
it is much sought for when a dinner of state is given in
London. Can this be because it is a rarity? (for nothing
common and easily obtained is deemed a delicacy, I
believe), or because you have it of finer flavour in
England? Here, where it abounds, no one seems to
care at all for it, and some would forego mushrooms
entirely rather than eat this. It certainly varies much
in quality, as I have occasionally found it quite palatable
and again, though cooked in the same mode, very indif-
ferent. I have been unable to ascertain whether this
difference is due to locality, exposure, shade, soil, moisture,
or temperature. That soil has much to do with the
flavour of some species of mushrooms I am well con-
vinced. In a parcel of pink gills I have sometimes
found one or two specimens, though ]3erfectly sound, of
such unpleasant odour and taste as would spoil a whole
dish. So also with the snowball (A. arvensis), of which
I annually find a few beautiful specimens growing near
my residence, upon a grassy turf which covers a pile of
trash made up of decomposed sticks, leaves, and scrapings
from the adjoining soil. Their taste and odoui' are per-

EDIBLE FUNGI. 157

fectly detestable. I had one specimen cooked^, but no
amount of seasoning could abate the ofFensiveness of the
odious thing ; yet within a hundred yards of these I gather
specimens of the same identical species,, which are of fine
flavour^ equal to that of the best mushrooms. As I have
before intimated the varying flavour of mushrooms grow-
ing on difiPerent kinds of wood, so here I suppose the
unpleasant qualities of some specimens of these two well-
known and favourite species, may be owing to something
in the soil where they grow which they cannot assimilate,
and so render a palatable and wholesome species totally
imfit for the table. AVhether such specimens, if eaten,
would be poisonous or unwholesome, I do not feel any
temptation to prove. It is not probable that they will
ever do any mischief, for it is incredible that any human
being should so pervert his instincts as to swallow such
a villanous concoction.

"Experience and observations like these would perhaps
justify the inference that an innocent species may some-
times be deleterious, on account of its taking up some
bad element from the soil. But as I have never known
a case of poisoning in families that are well acquainted
with the common mushroom or pink gill, that gather the
specimens for themselves, and have used this article of food
annually for many generations, I cannot agree with a sug-
gestion somewhere made by you, that perhaps all mush-
rooms contain a poisonous element, but some of them in

158 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

such small quantity as to have no appreciable effect. Now,
Lad you seen the quantities of stewed mushrooms swal-
lowed at a single meal which I have seen thus devoured,
and with no more harm than from the same amount of
oyster or turtle soup, I think you would be forced to the
conclusion that such an amount, even of poisonous infi-
nitesimals, must have had some very unpleasant manifes-
tations, or else be a verv innocent diet.

" It is said that the sale of the pink gill [A. cam-
pesfris) is forbidden in the Italian markets, because that
species has often proved to be poisonous. May not this
have been occasioned by ignorant and careless collectors
or by worthless inspectors ? To us in America, who use
this species so freely and fearlessly, the Italian's curse,
' May he die of a Pratiolo !' would have no more terror
than ^ May he die of aromatic pain/

" Our best and standard mushrooms are the pink-gill
[A. campestris) ; snowball [A. arvensis) ; peach-kernel
(A, amygdalinus) ; nut {A. procerus) ; French {A. pru-
nulus) ; morel (M. esculent a) ; coral (Clavaria) ; and
omelette [Ly coper don giganteum). These are almost
universally in high esteem. Yet tastes differ on these
things as on fruits and vegetables; some putting one,
some another, at the head of the list, though fond of all
and ever ready to use any of them^ — as one who
prefers a peach may yet relish an apple. There are some
among us who regard A. procerus as fully equal to A.

EDIBLE FUNGI. 159

campestrisj and I am almost of the same opinion. When,
broiled or fried it truly makes a luscious morsel. I
mention in this connexion_, that this species here bears
the name of nut mushroom,, from a quality that I do
not find mentioned in the books which describe it. The
stem "when fresh and young has a sweet nutty flavour,
very similar to that of the hazel nut. Is this the
case with you? Its flavour is so agreeable that I
am fond of chewing the fresh stems. From this pecu-
liarity in connexion with its movable ring, its form
and colours, I deem it a perfectly safe species to re-
commend for collecting. "VVe have no species likely to
be mistaken for it, except A. rachodes, and I fully tested
the innocence of this before commending the first to
others. Tliis has been suspected by some, but I have
found it harmless. Though pretty well flavoured, it is
not comparable with A. procerus, and the flesh is so thin
and spongy that no one would choose it when those of
more compact texture are to be had. A. excoriatns, of
the same group, is a much preferable species.

'' The ^lorel is one of my greatest favourites, but this
is not found in quantity except in calcareous districts.
A few days since (April 21) I had a dozen for supper,
the largest number I ever had at one time.

" The Lycoperdon giganteum is also a great favourite
with me, as it is, indeed, with all my acquaintances who
have tried it. It has not the high aroma of some others,

160 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

but it has a delicacy of flavour that makes it superior to
any omelette I have ever eaten. It seems, furthermore,
to be so digestible as to adapt it to the most delicate
stomachs. This is the South Down of mushrooms.

'^ In this latitude (about 36 degrees) we can find good
mushrooms for the table during nine or ten months of
the year. Including A. salignus, which some are quite
fond of, we can have them in every month, as this species
comes out during any warm spell in winter. A. cam-
pestris makes its appearance here as early as March, but
is not in full crop until September. Several excellent
species of the Tricholoma group do not spring up until
after frost sets in, and continue into December. Such
is the case too with Boletus collinitus, which sometimes
emerges from the earth frozen solid.

"These observations and experiences are confined
chiefly to the Carolinas; though I presume, from casual
observations elsewhere^ and from information derived
from correspondents in other States,, that, making some
allowance for diff'erence of climate and length of seasons,
what I have said is generally applicable to the whole
country.''^

Why we should not eat Funguses,

The following interesting paper from the E-ev. J. D.
La Touche was read at a meeting of the Woolhope Natu-
ralists' Field Club : —

EDIBLE EUNGI. 161

^^ It is said that at Rome^ when a mortal is about to
he raised to the dignity of sainthood, tlie precaution is
taken of providing a ^ deviFs advocate/ who, by pointing
out as strongly as he can all the faults of the candidate,
secures the fair discussion of both sides of the question,
and is a guarantee, moreover, that no unworthy aspii'ant
to such exalted honours should be rashly admitted to
them.

" On the present occasion I make bold to present my-
self in this unamiable capacity. No member, indeed, of
this respected Club is seeking canonization, yet, a step
not less important is contemplated in the enrolment of a
hitherto despised and even abhorred member of the vege-
table kingdom among the list of its edible products ; in-
deed, some may consider such a step as of more importance
to our race than the apotheosis of a peccant mortal ; and
therefore it would appear that, if in the one instance it is
desirable that all the peccadilloes of the candidate should
be exposed, a fortiori, it must be so in the other.

" Let me, then, first observe that these gentlemen at
the bar have actually a very bad character, and that it
is not likely that this would be the cas3 unless thev were
really great sinners.

'' Here, some will exclaim, no doubt, ' Prejudice, my
dear sir ! vulgar prejudice is capj^ble of the grossest in-
justice— ignorant prejudice has driven from our tables a
delicious article of food, and deprived the poor of a whole-

M

162 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

some diet/ It is often said that he was a brave man
who first ate an oyster_, and truly a more uninviting
mouthful than it was could scarcely be imagined; and
yet the fact that it is good and wholesome soon disposed
of any prejudice against it. And is it not likely that
such would be the case^ were the fungus tribe fit for
human food ? Can we suppose any prejudice arising from
their leathery looks would not evaporate like mists before
the morning sun^ were they really the nutritious and
delicious dainties they are described to be by their enthu-
siastic advocates ?

^' I think it may be observed that the general character
which a man bears is_, on the whole, a true one. That
big school,, the world in which we live, contrives, in some
way or other, to hit off pretty accurately our average
merit and take our measure, and though it may make a
mistake now and then in some particular instance, its
general estimate is a fair one ; and so with funguses.
There may be a too-sweeping condemnation of all kinds
of them : nay, it may be even probable that Agaricus
campestris is not the best that grows, and yet, after all,
the prevalent distrust of the tribe is well founded.

" When, e.g., some family in a parish is known to
have been poisoned by eating a wrong sort, it is not
surprising, nor can it be called stupid prejudice, if their
neighbours are ever after rather shy of the article of food
which produced that result. But it will be said that the

EDIBLE FUNGI. 163

miscliief arose from ignorance — had that family known the
marks that distinguish between the wholesome and the
poisonous kinds this would never have taken place. If ever
there was a case in which ignorance was bliss, surely this is
it. A short time ago, I accompanied a scientific friend in a
foray among the funguses, which we made with a special
view to the improvement of our intended repast, and was
on that occasion struck with the elaborate precautions
Avhich seemed to be necessary to observe in discriminating
the good from the bad. It would almost seem that
Nature had purposely contrived a labyrinth of ingenious
stumbling-blocks to guard this mysterious product from
the insatiable appetites of mankind ; and so it came to
pass after all, my good friend — who really seemed well
up in the subject, and who found at every turn some
well-known test of wholesomeness or otherwise to guide
him in the specimens we collected — wound up the day by
nearly poisoning a member of my family : for he had, it
appears, mistaken Boletus flavus, a violent poison, for
the very similar but wholesome and excellent Boletus
luteiis — the only difference being that the pores of the
one are somewhat smaller and less angular than those
of the other. Surely, in this instance, knowledge (and
it was not in his case a little knowledge either) w^as a
dangerous thing.

" But still it may be said that there are species the
characters of which are sufficiently well-defined, and thai.

] 64 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

from these,, at least, the stigma ought to be removed. But
even so, I would submit one or two questions to those
who may be inclined to admit this. 1st. Is it so clear
that a fungus which agrees with one person may not be
very injurious to another ? One man has, to use a vulgar
expression, the stomach of a horse. Can I, an average
mortal, calculate on possessing such a treasure ? I saw
with my own eyes my scientific friend eat and swallow
an entire Boletus flavus, raw, without any apparent bad
effects either that evening or the following day, whereas
a small portion of the same kind, cooked too (I cannot,
however, say secundum artem), produced violent sickness
on another individual, who, moreover, had never before
experienced sickness ; indeed, this fact would seem to
suggest that the stomach may be ^ educated^ by long habit
to bear this noxious food, and, therefore, that its evil effects
(harmless upon organs well trained) happen when the ex-
perimentum in corpore vili is tried. My friend assures me
that he has eaten the highly poisonous Boletus satanas
with no worse effect than a little indigestion the next
morning. Can, I would ask, the experience of such a
seasoned digestive apparatus as his be any guide to those
who have not gone through the course of training which
he has ?

'^ Again, may it not be possible that the same kind of
fungus which in some instances is wholesome, may, if
grown under different circumstances, and supplied with

EDIBLE EUXGI. 1G5

different nutriment^ assume very different properties ?
And again, are we competent to judge of the ^holesome-
ness of a particular article of food unless it is tried by
a very large number of person — sunless it be ^ exhibited/
to use a medical term, on a great variety of constitutions ?
Indeed, is there not some ground for thinkiug that such
an exhibition T\'ould be in many instances far from
satisfactory ?

" On the whole, it would appear that the advice of an
eminent physician, an ardent admirer of the fungus, was
good and sound. When he heard of the escape my
family had on this occasion, he said that this article of
diet should be partaken of with ' great caution/ And
by the way, is not this itself a very suspicious expres-
sion ? ^ Great caution V If I am introduced to a
gentleman, and told at the same time that I must con-
duct myself towards him with ^ great caution' or he will
probably do me some deadly mischief, it would hardly be
thought a very hearty and promising introduction ; yet
here we arc told that this excellent family to which we
are so warmly introduced has some members belonging
to it so villanously disposed, that possibly we may pay
for our acquaintance with our lives. This is not very
encouraging, and so the course adopted by a young lady
who indulges in these experiments, to whom I was speak-
ing the other day, would seem to be a very prudent one.
She says she never partakes of these dainties till she has

166 MUSHROOM CULTURE.

seen the effect they have had upon somebody else ! But
even so^ only picture the ghastly scene which a banquet
of this kind would present ; each guest looking anxiously
into his neighbour's face,, awaiting in terror the contor-
tions which are to show that he has partaken of the fatal
dish/'

While Mr. La Touchers paper should not deter us from
using and showing others the value of the quantities of
edible fungi now generally allowed to rot in our fields
and woods^ and nowhere perhaps so abundant as in the
pleasure grounds and woods round country seats, yet, as
impressing the necessity of using due discrimination in
gathering, it may be read with advantage by all.

INDEX.

AGAElcrs amjgdalinus .

„ arvuisis

„ CaBsnreus

„ ca3spi"osns (Leutinus)

„ camptstris

„ cylincricus

„ excoriitus

„ finieta-ius

„ frumeitacens .

„ gambos'is

„ melleu: .

„ nebnlais

,, orcella .

„ procenv

„ prunulu;

„ rachode?

„ rubesceiij

„ salignus

„ typhoide

„ villaticus
" Agaric of civilizat.Dn"
American Edible Fiagi .
Arches, Mushroom alture in

EOLETUS coHinitus

„ riavidus .

„ llavus

„ luteus

„ satanas .
liricks, niushroom-spiwn in
JJrown Warty Agaric

I'AGE

. 147

. 98
U7, 152
. 14U
. 95
. 118
. 114

. lis

. 148
. 121
. 149
. 127
. 141
. 113
. 143
. 114
. 125
. 153
. 118
. 100
. 119
. 145
. 47

. 149
. 149
. 163

. ir.3

. Ifil
. 25
. 125

168

INDEX.

Canthaeellus cibarlus .
Cave-culture of mushrooms
Cellars, mushroom culture in .
Champignonniste at Montrouge
Chantarelle ....
Clavaria - . . .

Clouded Mushroom
Common Mushrooms

5, how to cook the

Coprinus comatus .
Coral Mushroom
Covering for Mushroom-beds .

„ advantageous to Mushroom crop
Cucumber frames, Mushroom culture in

PAGE

. 137
. 57
. 51
. 57
. 137
. 158
. 127
. 95
. 102
. 117
. 158
. 34
. 87
. 56

Fairy-eing- Champignon
Fermentation of manure, how prevented
Floor of Mushroom-house
French mode of preparing manure

„ Mushroom-caves

„ Mushroom-spawn
Forsyth's Mushroom-house
Frogmore, Mushroom-house at

. 108
. 16
. 3,5

. 16
57,71

. 28
. 7
. 5

Gaedens and fields, Mushroom culture in
Gardens about London, Mushroom culture in
Greenhouses, Mushroom culture in .

77
78
53

Habitats of the wild Mushroom
Heating of the Mushroom-house
Hedge-hog Mushroom
Horse Mushroom .
Hydnum repandum
Hygrophorus pratensis .

„ psittacinus .

„ virgineus .

,, niveus

90

6

139

98
139
135
136
135
136

Ieon injurious to Mushi'ooms

74

Lactaeius deliciosus ....

„ piperatus ....

„ torminosus (neoator)
Lawns, Mushroom culture not desirable on
Lycoperdon giganteum ....

129

150

130

93

159

INDEX.

1G9

Maned Agaric, the
Manure, preparation ot .

Mr. Early's method of preparing
Mr. Barnes's „

Frogmorc „

how prepared by London market-gardeners
how kept from fermenting
French mode of preparing
summary of directions for preparing
Marasmins oreades
„ urens .
Mill-track !Mushroom-spa\vn .
Montrouge, Mushroom-caves at
Morchell'.i esculenta
Morel, the ....
Mouceron or mousseron
Mushroom-beds, materials for
of sawdust
of leaves and loam
of street-sweepings, &c
chief point to be observed in niakin {
best time for making
depth of . . .

in a stable
covering for .
liow to reduce the heat of
how to ascertain the heat of
how to spawn properly
soil for earthing
the watering of
vermin in
treatment of old
temperature of
soil for covering
caves, contrivance for watering beds in
,, „ for making beds in

„ localities of .
,, depth of . . .

„ immense extent of
„ at Montrouge
., description of soil used in
,, daily produce of .
„ appearance of beds in
„ kind of manure used in

difficulty in visiting
,, at Fi'epillon, account of

„ extent of beds in

PAGE

117

13

14

14

15

15

16

16

17

108

109

27

57

130

130

123, 1 13

13

113

10, 21
19
21
21
18
30
31
34
31
35
37
38
39

11, 46
33, 79

79
75
75
75
8,76
76
57
61
62
61
65
65
66
66

170

INDEX.

Miishroom-caves, at Frepillon, plan of

„ „ „ appearance of beds in

„ „ „ daily produce of

„ „ preparation of manure in

„ „ ,, of spawn in

„ crop, how to gather
„ culture in a shed .

in arches

in stables .

in cellars .

in bottoms of old casks

in cold greenhouses

under stages in glass-houses

in cucumber or melon frames

in caves near Paris

open-air in Parisian market gardens

in gardens among other crops

in gardens and fields .

in summer .....

in gardens at Earl's Court .

on lawns not desirable

in pastures, &c. ....
„ growing in open-air, Mr. Ayres's account of
Mushrooms dislike coal and iron ....

„ « tar

Mushroom-house, chief requirement in the construction of
„ 5, at back of hot-houses .

„ „ floor of .... .

„ „ without artificial heat .

„ „ with slate or tiled roof .

„ „ with thatched roof

J, ,, condition of air in ...

„ „ at Frogmore ....

„ ,, how secured from damp

„ „ best position for .

„ ., how heated ....

„ „ used for forcing and blanching vegetables

„ „ under shed (Forsyth's)

„ „ best kind of shelves for

„ „ at Stoke Place

„ ,, against wall, best roof for

„ „ proper width of .

„ „ llussian (Oldacre's)

„ ,, ventilation of . . .

„ „ with brick arched inner roof

„ ,, with close-bottomed shelves .

J, „ shelves of cast-iron grating for

INDEX.

171

Mushroom-house, necessity of cleaning
„ temperature of
spawn, what it is .
„ how obtained in the first instance
„ " natural" or " virgin"
„ how to preserve .
5, in bricks

„ „ „ recipes for making
„ mill-track .
„ French

,, how to save the expense of purchasing
„ French, experiment with
Mushrooms not produced by chance

quantities exported from France

Nut Musheoom

Oldacee's mushroom-house .
Old mushroom-beds, treatment of .
Omelette ......

Open-air culture of Mushrooms at Paris .
Orange-milk Mushroom ....

Orgelle .......

Pastuees, how to introduce Mushrooms into

Parasol Agaric

Peach-kernel Mushroom .

Pink-gill Mushroom

Places in which Mushrooms may be gi-own

Plum ^lushroom .

Polyporus Berkelei

„ confluens

„ frondosus

„ ovinus .

Pratiolo

poripes .
sulfureus

Rain", injurious to mushroom-crop
Red-tleshed ^lushroom .
Roof of mushroom-house
Russian mushroom-house

Sawdust for mushroom-beds .
Scaly Mushroom .
Shed, mushroom-house under .
„ mushroom culture in

page
42
33
23
24
24
25
25
26
27
28
29
30
89
64

158

10

41

158

80

129

141

92

113
158
158
1
143
150
150
150
149
149
150
97, 158

87
125
4,5

10

19

113

7

15

172

INDEX.

Shelves of musbroom-house

„ cast-iron grating for .
Snowball Mushroom
Soil for earthing mushroom-beds
Spawn, how to prepare without expense
Spinaroli .....
Spine-bearing Mushroom
Stables, mushroom culture in .
Stoke Place, mushroom-house at
Street-sweepings for mushroom-beds
St. George's Mushroom .
Summer cultivation of Mushrooms .

Tae, Mushrooms' dislike of
Temperature of mushroom-beds
„ of mushroom -house

Vegetable Sweetbread
Ventilation of mushroom-house
Vermin in mushroom-beds
" Virgin" mushroom-spawn
Viscid White Musliroom

Wateeing of mushroom-beds, the .
" Why should we not eat Funguses"

PAGE

. 7
. 11
. 158
. 37
. 91
. 123
. 139
. 49
. 8
. 19
. 121
. 77

. 48
. 33
. 33

. 141

5,7,9

. 39

. 24
. 135

. 38

. 160

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The articles are chiefly selected so as to afford a succession of graphic parts of
English History, chronologically arranged, from the consideration tliat the por-
tions of history upon which general readers delight to dwell are those which tell
some story which is complete in itself, or furnisn some illustration which has a
separate as well as a general interest.

Bedford Street^ Covent Garden.

University of British Columbia Library

DUE DATE

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