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. • • f
13S78V
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jZ. 131
t . 1.^
J
THE
EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
LOKDOX: PIIIKTKD DT
SIH>TTI.SVrOOOB AMU CO^ VKW-8TRKF.T BQrABB
AMD riKLUILKVT STKKJiT
r T Tf C f !r ' *
NARRATIA'E
OF THE
EUPHRATES EXPEDITION
CABHIKD ON
BY ORDER OP THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT
DciiiKt^ THE Ykaijs 18.^5, isr»li, and IS^T.
»Y
GENERAL FRANCIS KAWDON ClIESNEY,
OOLONEL-COMIIANDANT IItii EUIGADC ROTAL AUTIILCRY,
D.C.L. F.K.S. F.ILG.S.
COUMAilDER OF TUJi EXPKDITIDrr.
:V\
LONDON:
LONGMANS, OllEEN, AND (M).
J2r3. <^ . /3f.
f
1'
â– :
{â–
1:
TO
HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
QUEEN VIGTORIA.
Madam,
Permit me to place at Yoiir Majesty's feet the result of a Special Service which was undertaken by a Vote of Parliament, the Narrative of which, owing to peculiar circumstances, has remained unpublished up to this moment.
I would briefly mention to Your Majesty that two armed steam-vessels, with a body of scientific ofiicers, artillerymen, sappers, and seamen, were placed under my orders, to carry out the Survey and Navigation of the Rivers Euphrates and Tigris, with the view of efiecting a more rapid Overland Commu- nication with India, by the commands of His late Majesty King William IV. ; and that, having successfully accomplished these objects, the detailed Surveys and Maps of
VI DEDICATION.
the Rivers Euphrates and Tigris were, by command of Your Majesty, placed before both Houses of Parliament.
During the time which has elapsed since, in 1832, I took the first steps towards the all-important object of our Overland Com- munication with India, it has pleased Your Majesty to advance me successively from the rank of Captain, which I then held, to that of General in Your Majesty's Army.
I have the honour to be.
Madam, With profound respect,
Your Majesty's most humble and
devoted servant,
F. R. CHESNEY,
General, Royal Artillery.
PREFACE
TN offering to the public the Narrative of an Expe- -*" (lition carried out more than thirty years ago, and written now at a period of life when most men seek for repose of mind and body, it would seem as if some explanation were necessary to accoimt for the delay which has taken place in its publication. This ex- planation I have given in the introductory and con- cluding chapters of my work, and I have therefore little left to add to what the reader will there find detailed.
Had not Her Majesty's Government proposed and requested that this Narrative should appear, I confess that at this late period I should not have had the heart to undertake and complete it. It has, however, been to me a ' labour of love ;' and in recalling to life the various incidents of the Euphrates Expedition, which have slumbered and slept for so many years, they have come forth from memory's cells with much of their old freshness, and have renewed all that interest in the important question of an improved Overland
VUl PREFACE.
Communication with India which repeated disappoint- ment experienced on my part had partially crushed.
When a man feels that what he has to say is wortli saying — that the object he has in view is worth carry- ing out — he will, if he be worth anything, stick to it through evil report and good report, through
rainy days and fine. Such has been my case; even though, as in the instance of the Euphrates Koute to
India, the ' rainy days ' have scarcely been intermitted
by any gleams of sunshine.
When I returned from the East in 1837, it was with the full belief that a question of such vast importance to Great Britian — nationally, politically, and commer- cially— would be at once taken up warmly by the Government and the public. The way had been opened — difficulties which at one time looked formid- able had been overcome ; the Arabs and the Turkish Government were most favourable to the projected Line to India. But thirty-one years have since passed, and nothing has been done I
Where the obstacles lie — where the political or monetary hindrances to the execution of this great and beneficial project, it is perhaps scarcely for me to indicate ; but there can be no doubt that England must be very blind to her true interests if she allow it longer to remain in abeyance.
My exertions in the cause of the Euphrates Eoute are well known.. During the last ten years I have
PREFACE. IX
been twice to Constantinople, to obtain the Sultan's Firman for a Railway from the mouth of the Orontes to the Persian Gulf ; and once to Syria, to examine de novo the country between the Mediterranean and the Eu- phrates. On the latter occasion I was accompanied by Sir John MacNeill and a staff of engineers, who made a most careful survey of the Bay and of the country from Suedia onwards. To my great gratification, I found myself recognised and most cordially welcomed by the Arabs, whose anxiety for the opening-up of their country had much increased since 1837. In 1857 I brought the subject before Parliament, and the efforts of Mr. W. P. Andrew, Chairman of the Scindc and Punjaub Railway Companies, have been untiring in endeavouring to organise a Line of Railway vi/l Alepjx) and the Euphrates, with such slight encourage- ment from Government as would give confidence and security to the shareholders. But all has hitherto been in vain — ^and why?
In sending forth this Narrative of what was done by the pioneers of the Euphrates Route to India, I do so with the earnest hope that it may be the means of affording me the only reward which I now covet — that of a satisfactory answer to this very simple ques- tion.
I am also very desirous of drawing the attention of
the public to that portion of my work comprised in the Appendix. The Contents of an Appendix arc
X PREFACE.
usually considered — ^by the general reader at all events — as dry and uninteresting, and are liable to be passed over without even a cursory perusal. A glance at the Table of Contents of this volume will show that this is not the case in the present instance.
The highly interesting Journals of tlie late Major- General J. B. B. Estcourt are replete with truly life- like pictures of Eastern manners and travel ; while, to those who knew him personally, they will recall vividly the single-hearted and straightforward cha- racter which drew enjoyment and encouragement for himself and others from every incident.
Captain Charlewood's Journal abounds alike in graphic descriptions of the arduous duties undertaken by him, and evinces the cheerful and devoted spirit, ever fertile in expedients, in which they were carried out : while the Reports of the other Officers, although necessarily more brief than those to which I have specially alluded, will give the reader a clearer idea than I have succeeded in doing in my Narrative of tlie difficulties overcome by each in his separate department of the Service.
In Dr. Heifer's hitherto unpubhshed 'Visit to the Arabian Desert,' and in Mr. Ainsworth's * Journey to Constantinople,' the antiquarian will, I trust, find mucli to interest him, and to encourage further research in these inexhaustible regions of ancient civilization and greatness.
FBEFACE. XI
To the Appendix I have added, as No. XII., short Biographical Notices of the Officers and others by whom I was, without exception, most ably seconded and supported throughout the Expedition.
I offi^r these Notices as a tribute of my gratitude and regard to the survivors of ovu* little band, and as a memorial of my lasting affection for those who are no more ; earnestly hoping that these records of their devotion to the Service in whicli they were engaged, may be the means of inducing others to do likewise.
F. K. Chbsney, General Royal Artillery.
Pacxolet, Balltasdle, CO. Down ; Septetnber 7, 1868.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAQI IlfTBODVCTOBT : TH£ NILE BOATS AND SABLT NAYIOATIOK . . 1
CHAPTER n.
0T7TLI1IE or A JOUSNBY THBOUOH FALB6TINS AND STBIA, WITH
B^FERBNCE TO AN OVERLAND BOUTE TO INDIA ... 13
CHAPTER m.
OUTLINE OF A JOURNEY, THROUGH THE HAOURAN AND DECAF0U8;
ON THE WAY TO THE RITSR EUPHRATES .... 21
CHAPTER IV.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE ARABIAN DESERT FROM DAMASCUS TO EL-KAIM, AND PREPARATION OF THE RAFT TO DESCEND THE RIVER EUPHRATES FROM ANNA 60
CHAPTER V.
DESCENT OF THE RIVER EUPHRATES ON A BAFT AND BY BOAT, AND
CROSSING THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSHIRE .... 69
CHAPTER VT.
ASCENT AND DESCENT OF THE RIVER KABON — JOURNEY THBOUGH PEBSIA AND ASIA MINOB — EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTBIES BOBDERING ON THE UPPEB fUPHBATES 05
XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER Vn.
PAUE
SEZBBUM TO TREBIZOVDE^ AND FROH THENCE TO THE MEDITER- RANEAN COAST THBOVOH ASIA MINOR 121
CHAPTER Vm.
PBOOBBSS OF THE STEAM QUESTION — ^INTERVIEW WITH HIS MAJESTY KINO WILLIAM IV.^ REGARDING THE T^'O rROPOSITIONS OF COMMUNICATION WITH INDIA — A COMMITTEE OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS EXAMINES THE QUESTION, AND TOTES £20,000 FOR AN EXPERIMENT BT THE EUPHRATES .... 142
CHAPTER IX.
ENTRUSTED WITH THE COMMAND OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION — ^AOAIN COMMANDED TO ATTEND THE KINO — DIFFICULTIES OF THE EXPEDITION — PREPARATIONS AT LITERPOOL — THE ' GEORGE CANNING ' CHARTERED — ^MR. FITZJAMES INTREPIDLY SATES A DROWNING TIDEWAITER — TOYAGE TO MALTA — TOTAGE TO THE COAST OF SYRIA — OPPOSITION OF THE PACHA OF EGYPT— LANDING OF THE EXPEDITION .... 150
CHAPTER X.
THE EXPEDITION LANDS AT THE MOUTH OF THE ORONTES— PREPA- RATIONS FOB CROSSING NORTHERN SYRIA TO THE EUPHRATES 171
CHAPTER XI.
TRANSPORT OF THE MATERIALS TO PORT WILLIAM, AND PREPARA- TIONS TO SET UP AND FLOAT THE STEAMERS AT THAT PLACE, WITH THE DIFFICULTIES AND OPPOSITION OFFERED BY THE MUTSELLIM 102
CHAFER XII.
SEARCH FOR COAL AND NATITE STEEL IN THE MOUNTAINS NEAR
MARASH — ASCENT OF THE STEAMER TO THE TOWN OF BIB . 212
CILVl>TER Xm.
DESCENT AND SURVEY OF THE RIVER EUPHRATES FROM POUT
WILLIAM TO ZELEBl 2l'4
CONTBNTS. XV
CHAPTER XIV.
PAUB DESCENT CONTDfCTED FROM ZELEBI TO IS-GERIA — LOSS OF THE
'TIGRIS' STEAMER— PB0SECUTI017 OP THE DESCENT . . 249
CHAPTER XV.
DESCENT AND SURTET CONTXNTTED, FROM ANNA TO BASRAH . . 277
CHAPTER XVI.
CROSSINO THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSHIRE — REFITMENT OF THE
STEAMER^ AND RETURN TO THE LOWER EUPHRATES « . 205
CHAPTER XVII.
ASCENT OF THE RITER TIGRIS TO BAGDAD, AND DESCENT TO MEET
THE INDIAN MAIL AT KURNAH 305
CHAPTER XVni.
ASCENT OF THE RIVER EUPHRATES TO THE LAMLUM MARSHES — DESCENT TO BASRAH — THE COMMANDER PROCEEDS TO INDIA TO MAXB ARRANGEMENTS TO CONTINUE THE EXPEDITION, LEAVING MAJOR ESTCOURT IN COMMAND 814
CHAPTER XIX.
BEACH BOMBAY — REFERENCE TO THE QOVERNORr-OENERAL — DAK
JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR OF INDIA — RETURN TO BOMBAY. 327
CHAPTER XX.
JOURNEY ACROSS THE ARABIAN DESERT— RETURN TO ENGLAND,
AND TERMINATION OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION . . 335
XVI CONTESTS.
APPENDIX.
PAUX
I. LETTER FROM CAPTAIW CHESWET TO SIR ROBERT GORDON, Oil
THE OVERLAND ROUTE VI A EGYPT 3G4
II. GENERAL ACCOUNTS OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION — CASU- ALTIES OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION . , . 374
III. JOURNEY FROH THE BAY OP THE ORONTBS TO DAMASCUS (1835),
BY THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOURT . . 381
IV. JOURNEY FROM SUEDIA TO RESCHID PACHA's CAMP NEAR
DIYARBEKR (1835), BY THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOURT 407
V. REPORT OF A TOUR FROM BIR TO EL-DEIR (1830), BY CAPTAIN
HENRY BLOSSE LYNCH, C.B., K.L.8 432
VI. EXTRACTS FROM A REROBT OF AN EXCURSION IN THE ARABIAN
DESERT (1836), BY THE LATE JOHN WILLIAM HELPER, M.D. 439
VII. REPORT OF THE CIRCUMSTANCES RELATING TO THE TRANSPORT
(1836), BY THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOXTRT 440
VIII. REPORT OP THE CIRCUMSTANCES RELATING TO THE TRANSPORT (1835-36), BY THE LATE COMMANDER B. F. CLEAVE- LAND, R.N 452
IX. SUMMARY OF JOURNAL (1835) BY ACTING LIEUTENANT (NOW
captain) E. p. CHARLEWOOD, R.N 4U6
X. REPORT BY THE LATE MR. (AFTERWARDS CAPTAIN) JAMES
FITZJAMES, R.N. (1836) 481
XI. REPORT OF A JOURNEY FROM BAGDAD TO CONSTANTINOPLE VIA
KURDISTAN (1837), BY WILLIAM AIN8W0RTH . . . 402
XII. BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OF THE OFFICERS OF THE EUPHRATES
EXPEDITION 642
INDEX 560—504
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PLATES.
TJLXXI.
LVUI.
LV.
LVI.
Lvn.
LII.
LIX.
LXVU.
LXVI.
Lxvm.
LL ULXI.
LXXTX
Lxxn.
LXXV.
LXXIV,
Lxxvn.
LXXTin.
LXXIX.
LXXX.
LXX.
LXIX.
LXXXII.
LXXXVIII.
Lxxxn*.
LXXXVII.
VIEW OP PORT WILUAM A5D 1 »i„ ^. • THE Toyrs OP BIR . .J ^
COSIRE, 0^ THE COAST OP EGYPT . . Tofactpafff 6
WERA8H „ „ 44
BlTOtAC OP A CARAVAN OUTSIDE THE
VILLAGE OP BOWAR SHOGAlf ... ,, „ 50
ANAH „ „ CO
CAPTAUr Cn£SNET*S RAPT, ITU 1830, DE-
SCEXDIITG THE EUFB RATES TOWARDS
HADISAH „ „ 70
HIT „ „ 77
CITY OF SHTSTER „ „ 97
ISXAILE, OV THE EITER KAR€N . . yy » 101 THE £2?TRAirCE TO 8HIRAZ AND TOMB OP
SADI „ „ 105
RrX KALAH 9f u 1^7
THE BOILER PASSING THE BAR OP THE
0R0NTB8 „ „ 170
IBRAHDf PACHA yi ,9 179
DITARBEKR yy ,y 1^
XOORAD PACHA yy yy 193
THE PIR8T BOILER PORDING THE KARA-CHAI „ „ 197
SOURCE OP THE RIVER BELIE ... yy yy ^01 ARAB ATTACK ON LIEUTENANT LYNCH AND
PARTY NEAR DEIR .... jy yy 205.
AZAZ M „ -00
CHENDEREEZ yy yy 200
THE LAST BOILER ENTERING FORT WILLIAM „ „ 209
ISKENDERUN AND THE BBILAN MOUNTAINS „ „ 212
KALAT-EN-NIJM j^ w -'^
TUB ARABS ATTACKING SHEIKH HUSSAN . „ „ 232
BELES j> V 230
kal'at ja'ber 7; n 242
#
XVlll
LIST OF ILLUSTILVTIONS.
l'L.\TK
LXXXV. THE 8TE.\MK11S PASSING TIIAPSACIS .
LXXXVI. RUINS OF TUE CITY OF RAKKAU
LXXXIX. DBIR
XC. LOSS OF THE 'TIGRIS* . . . .
XCI. EL-KIIUDHR VILLAGE AND ARAB WAR-DANCE
LXIII. SHEIKH-EL-SnUYUKII . . . .
LXIV. XURNAH
XCII. SALUTE AT BASRAH
LXI. THE TOWN OF KCT ON THE EUPHRATES .
LX. BAGDAD AND BRIDGE ....
XCVI. AHWAZ
XCVII. A THREATENED ATTACK IN THE DESERT .
LXV. BASRAH CREEK
LIII. BEYROUT
LIV. BAALBEC FROM TUE QUARRY .
LXXIII. ZOZU
XCIII. CUESNEYA EUPHRATENSIS . XCIV. TETARIS — A. PARVIFLORA. B. CAPITA TA . XCV. TETRADICLI8 CA8PIA. CRYPTADIA EUPHRA- TENSIS
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WOODCUTS.
TAGS
RUINED CONVENT OF ST. SIMON STYLITES 170
TOMB AT SELEUCIA 170
TUNNEL AT SELEUCIA 171
THE 'TIGRIS* STEAMER 185
MIDSHIP SECTION OF ' EUPHRATES ' STEAMER .... 188
SECTION OF ' TIGRIS * STEAMER 188
THE LAUNCH ON WHEELS l89
JI8R 1L\DID 190
BOILER ASCENDING THE * HILL OF DIFFICULTY * . . . . 195
BOILER ALMOST UPSET 196
BOILER ON ITS WAGGON IM
NAUVS BOAT WITH THE BOILER OK THE LAKE OF ANTIOCH . .198
'EUPHRATES* BEING LAUNCHED 203
'EUPHRATES* STEAMER 207
DIVING-BELL 209
FLYING BRIDGE 235
M APS.
INDEX MAP ^ . In a pocket
POSITION OF 'TIGRIS' AND 'EUJ'HRAJES' STEAM-
YEsaELS ON MAY 21, 1830 To face pat/c 26o
NARRATIVE
OP THE
EUPHRATES EXPEDITION
CHAPTER L
INTEODUCTOBY: THE NILE BOATS AND EABLY NAVIGATION.
In the year 1852 I published, in two volumes, an chap. account of some of the results of the Euphrates Expe- ' — '- — ' dition, including an historical and geographical survey i. and'n. of the regions traversed by the Euphrates. It was my intention that the work should have included a full narrative of my first exploration of the rival routes through Egypt and Syria, as well as a detailed account of the operations of the subsequent survey ; and in the prospectus of the proposed work, which was published by Messrs. Longmans in 1852, this intention was sketched out and given to the public ; but it appearing, to the Department • under whose auspices the publica- tion was conducted, that the completion of my design would be attended with what then seemed to be an undue expense, I consented, at their instance, to limit the work to the incomplete form in which it then appeared.
• Her Majesty's Treasury. *»j
B
2 NARRATIVE OP THE ETPHRATK EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP. After the lapse of sixteen years, it is now thouglit ad- ' — . — ' visable by Her Majesty's Government, having regard to J^JSSkMi ^^^ greatly increased importance of the Overland Eoute *^l^ question, that it would be for the public advantage that the materials of information remaining in my hands should be rendered accessible, and I have received their commands to proceed with the present work. Owing to the march of events in the meantime, much of what I had originally prepared for the press has ceased to possess sufficient interest to justify its production at this day ; so that — partly from this cause, but chiefly on account of the change necessitated in the general plan of the work by the above-mentioned determination of my superiors — it is probable that what I now ofler to the pubUc may appear, in some instances, deficient in continuity of treatment. But defects of this kind will readily be excused, if the work be found useful in carrying out that continuity of purpose^ which for nearly forty years has actuated me, in seeking for, and endeavoiuring to make known, the preferable Overland Eoute to India- ^6 SoM Qf ^jjg events above referred to, the principal one ^^*^' is, undoubtedly, the great undertaking of the Suez Ship Canal of M. de Lesseps. A commercial nation ought not to repine at the opening of any new high- way of commerce ; but a nation administering a distant empire, cannot afford to trust her communica- tions to the chances of commercial equality, which may at any time be disturbed by national or dynastic rivalries : and while the Suez Ship Canal deprives the Egyptian and Red Sea Survey of much of its interest, it must be regarded as having added greatly
SERVICES OP THE OFPICEBS.
to the importance of such information as can be chap. adduced in respect to the rival Hne through Syria. - — A—
The proposed railway from Suedia, at the mouth luiiway of the Orontes, to Antioch, affords another and a edu. very cedent reason for turning with renewed interest to the Euphrates Boute ; and even the increasing apprehensions of disaster to the Turkish Empire — although I trust illusory, or at least very remote — furnish further grounds for a just and natural desire to secure a firm footing in those regions ; and to that end to make ourselves folly acquainted with all that we have done there, and with all that has been learnt of the land and people.
Besides, it seems due to the gallant and meritorious inundod public servants who took part in the Survey, and UMoAcm are now no more, that some record of their services should be preserved, both as a tribute to their worth, and as a usefol instruction to those who hereafter may have similar undertakings confided to them. I, and a few others, are now the only survivors of a consider- able force engaged in an enterprise requiring much preparatory organisation, and continuous labour in execution. I wish to commemorate them as their merits deserve, and yet, in doing so, not to have to say, 'fungar inani munere.' It seems also desirable that my own preliminary e2camination of the River Euphrates should not be withheld from those who may be interested in knowing what a single man may be able to accomplish in the way of field and water surveying and exploration. I shall therefore narrate, as briefly as may be, the steps which led me in the track of what will probably, hereafter, be our great
B 2
NAKRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, highway to the East ; and shall then give the details, — r — ' first, of my own operations as an individual surveyor,
and, afterwards, of the operations of the Euphrates Surveying Expedition, under my command. Mr. Pea- Being in Egypt, whither I had gone on a political
A^w* It ii —^
queries missioH fi^om Sir Eobert Gordon, the British Ambassa- KiverEu- ^OT at Constantinople, in 1829, I had placed in my ^ **'• hands, by Consul-General Barker, a series of queries drawn up by the late Mr. Peacock, the Principal Examiner of the India House, as to the relative ad- vantages of the Egyptian and Syrian routes to India. This document, for its comprehensiveness, sagacity, and forethought, deserves to be made known, and I give it here in extenso : — Object and * Information respecting the road from Scanderoon the Eu- to points in communication with India — i.^., from that enquiriei. place as well as fi-om Lattaquia and Antioch, respectively, to Aleppo.
' From Aleppo to Bir, and to Beles on the Euphrates.
' The number of days required to perform the journey
by each route, distinguishing between a journey to be
performed by travellers with attendants, and one by an
express messenger.
' The comparative advantages of one or other of these routes, both as regards the probable seciu'ity of travel- ling by them, and the superior expedition to be obtained. ' Trade on the Euphrates ; extent of it ; in vessels or boats ; their size and draught of water.
* At what point the navigation ceases.
* At what point (if any) below Beles it would be possible to procure wood in sufficient quantity for steam-navigation.
ASCEOT OP THE NILE. 5
* State of the tribes on the sides of the Euphrates, ciur. particularly the right side. — li_
*To what point might a steam-vessel mount the Euphrates ?
* State of the harbours of Lattaquia and Scanderoon, and also of the mouth of the Eiver Orontes.
* Boutc fix>m Aleppo by the Great Desert to Bussorah, and also by the Little Desert to Bagdad.
* Information as to the number of days, means of obtaining despatch, and general security for tra- vellers.'
Strongly impressed with the importance of these ques- tions, I ventured to propose to our Government, through Sir Eobert Gordon, that I should make a personal ex- amination of the several routes, and report the result. Taking for granted that this would be the wish of the Government, and that no difficulty about leave would be made, I at once commenced the task I had proposed to myself, by ascending the Nile to Eramina- Cairo, and thence crossing to Suez, and from Suez RedSea descending the Red Sea to Kosseir. From Kosseir I crossed the desert to the Nile at Kenneh, ascended to the Second Cataracts, and returning, descended tlie river to the Damietta mouth. It is hardly necessary to say, that many things incidental to desert travelling, and to sea and river navigation, occupied my attention, which possibly would have been deemed matter of curiosity, if not of value, thirty-nine years ago ; but beyond the general result of my observations — viz., that a steamer might reach Kosseir from Bombay in fourteen days, and that the transit of the mails from thence to Alexandria could be accomplished in four
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
days ; while by the shorter line, Suez would be reached in fifteen days from Bombay, and the Mediterranean at Damietta, or the entrance of the Nile, in two days more — there is little of what I took note of in the Egyptian part of my exploration, that has not now become famiUar through the writings of recent tra- vellers, as well as from actual observation by great numbers of our civil and military servants, in the course of their journeys to and from India.
Some few observations, however, may be worth making in relation to the Nile itself, w^hich plays an annual part in the affairs of mankind too important to Early ciri- allow it cvcr to be a worn-out subject. It seems difficult Egypt. to conceive that such a civilisation as formerly existed along its banks up to the frontiers of Abyssinia, should have been wanting in the necessary enterprise to trace the river at least to the lakes constituting its head- waters. The geographer Ptolemy indicates the fact that two great lakes were known to be in existence, at the upper sources of the Nile, in his day. Mediaeval geographers brmg down these two lakes in the maps of Artelius and Cleaver, and show them at some distance beyond the Equator, gathering the snow-waters of the Moun- tains of the Moon. The remark of a sagacious observer, that the gradual rise and fall of the Nile could only be accounted for by a great expanse of head-waters, was, at the time I write of, fully before my view ; though I did not foresee that, before I should come to put the result of my own observations on paper, his inference would be verified by the discovery of the eastern lake by Speke, and of the western lake by Baker. After all, it is not a little remarkable that, save as regards
ROMAN BXPLOEATIONB OF BTHIOPU.
the survey of the farther shores of the Victoria Nyanza, chap. the discoveries of these two able travellers have done ^ — ^ —
little more than restore ns to pretty nearly the same measure of knowledge as was enjoyed by the Eoman world of the time of Nero. That Emperor sent two soucm of centurions into Ethiopia, with orders to explore the unknown fountains of the river. They reported that, after having gone a long way, they came to a king of Ethiopia, who furnished them with necessaries and recommendations to some other kingdoms adjacent; passing which they came to immense lakes, of which nobody knew the end. But I must except the conclusion of their report, for they added, with regard to the end of these lakes, that nobody could ever hope to find it; and now — possibly before what I write shall have come before the eye of a reader — some other Future adventurous traveller will have ftdly surveyed the ^^J^' farther shores of the Albert Nyanza, and will have ^•"•^ determined whether or not there was any foundation of truth in what the Sacristan of the Treasury of Minerva at Lais told Herodotus,* that one part of their head- waters flows north through I^jrpt, and the other half south, through another channel ; an idea very perseveringly insisted on by the mediaeval geo- graphers, who derive not only the western branch of the Nile, but also the waters flowing into the Gulf of Congo, from the opposite extremities of their Lake Zamhe — being unquestionably the same inland sea re- introduced to our notice under the name of the Albert Nyanza. However these speculations may turn out, no one, even at the period of which I write, could
♦ Euterpe, xi. 28.
8 NABRATIVE OP TUB EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, travel on the Nile without feeling himself on one of * — ^ — ' the highways of knowledge, as well as of commerce ;
and a question arose in "my mind, on observing the various modes of navigation in use on its waters,
Niie-boata. whether the Nile-boat, with its fore and aft lateen-sail, and its capability of going on a wind, be not a much older form of saihng-vessel than we have been in the habit of supposing : for the prevalent belief is that the vessels which sail on a wind are of post-Eoman in- vention— and, indeed, there seems no doubt that the Eoman galley was calculated only to sail before the wind, and had to make head against it by force of rowing.
Now everything in Egypt preserves the ancient type. Such a thing as a square-rigged craft is not to be seen on the Nile. We know that the Celtic Gauls of Julius CflBsar's time possessed boats with leathern sails capable of going on a wind. The least civilised tribes of the Eastern seas use the lateen rig, more or less modified. I confess that I could not look on the almost universal use of tliis sail on the Nile — for you see it even on the rafts and flat-bottomed barges, in which hay is carried fi'om point to point — ^without the conviction that navi-
Eariy river gatiou had attained here to as early an excellence as
naviga- ^
tion. the other arts. The Imes, too, of the Nile-boat doubt-
less preserve the form fixed on thousands of years ago, as that best fitted for passing through the water, and at the same time yielding least to leeway ; and it is remarkable that the principal breadth of beam is carried abaft of the centre, giving to the deck much the character of that of the celebrated yacht * America.' Side by side with these vessels we see the most
RAFTS AND NILE-BOATS. !
primitive forms of floats and rafts — such as two bimdles chap. of bulrushes lashed together, and guided by a single ]' - individual from place to place, who uses his feet as ^*^f\c paddles. A better kind, again, is formed by lashing together two or more logs of wood, which can then be paddled across, or down the stream. Others, which are merely temporary rafts, but answer the piupose re- quired very efficiently, are constructed of huge earthen water-pots,* or sometimes of a great number of earthen drinking-cups, attached together by reeds. These, when conveyed to their destination, are broken up and sold, and are universally used throughout Egypt as drinking- cups ; and being porous, the water which filters into them is deliciously cool and refreshing.
And now, side by side with these primitive floats, the European steamboat is joined to the other ex- amples, so that navigation may here be seen in every stage of its progress. Let me recommend the Nile- boat to the traveller, as a far more quiet and convenient dwelling than a steamer. There are several sorts — two of which, even at the present day, may be de- scribed with advantage. These are the ddhdbieh and the canjiah. A first-class ddhdbieh is from 160 to Boats on 180 feet long — ^with two masts and two immense sails of striped cotton, each of which revolves on a pivot at the head of the mast. These boats have two, and sometimes three, roomy cabins, furnished with sofas, tables, bookshelves, &c. ; also some two or three
* FloruB, in his account of the Servile War^ relates that the insur- gents under Spartacus, after being driyen into the extremity of Gala- bria, by Liciuius Crassus, and having no shipping, endeavoured to cross the Straits of Messina on rafts composed of jars lashed together by wicker-work, ' dolia connexa virgultis.' — JEpUame, voL iL cap. 20.
10 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, comfortable sleeping apartments, provided with jalou- ^ — r — ' sie shutters. The poop-deck is the traveller's great resort after sunset ; the skyhght makes a table, and there is always a sofa on each side of it. The crew consists of the rais, steersman, and twelve or fourteen sailors, who cook and hve towards the bow of the boat, leaving ample accommodation for the travellers and their servants.
The canjiah is a good deal smaller than the ddhd- bieh. They vary from 40 to 90 feet in length ; that in which I navigated the Nile was 70 feet long. Their build is a sharp raking bow, rather a flat bottom, a full stem, with a double cabin, and three small sleeping cabins beneath a poop-deck, which occupies quite one- half of the boat. A low mast with a sprit-sail at the very extremity of the stem, with a much higher one towards the bow, with a huge lateen-sail of blue-and- white striped cotton, worked on a pivot at the head of the mast, and extending the whole length of the boat, form the universal rig. This rig is so exactly repre- sented on the Pyramids and ancient sculptures, that it is clear the present boats differ but httle from those anciently in use on the river. Nothing can exceed the luxury of floating down the Nile in one of these boats, carried by the current from temple to temple, the surface of the stream scarcely rippled by its progress, and enjoying the silvery hght and soft balmy atmosphere which succeed to the heat of an Egyptian day.
Besides examining the Damietta mouth it was part of my duty to survey the Isthmus of Suez, and the outlets through Lake Menzalah, with a view to report-
LEVEL OF THE RED SEA. 11
ing on the practicability of carrying out the great chap. project of a ship-canal, the first suggestion of which in ^ — ^ — ' modem times we owe to the savants of the French Bepublic, whose countryman (Lesseps) now bids fidr to reap the glory of the accomplishment.
Owing, however, to some serious errors in taking the line of levels in 1802, the French engineers had made the Bed Sea 36 feet higher than the Mediterra- nean ; and at the time of my observations, the belief prevailed that if the isthmus were to be pierced by an opening from sea to sea, several towns along the shore . would inevitably be submerged. This error I was enabled to avoid, and in the report which I addressed on the subject to the British Minister at Constanti- nople,* I ventiu'ed to express my belief that a sea- canal could be opened, so as to give a passage for steamers and other vessels, without even so much disad- vantage as is experienced in the case of the Bosphorus.
The practical question, however, appeared then, as QuesUon now, to be one of expenditure; and considering the sucz* enormous cost, on the one hand, and the certainty of ^*^^' a speedy overland communication being established across the narrow desert between Cairo and the Bed Sea on the other, the possibility of constructing a ship- canal to Suez did not long continue to occupy my thoughts. They were now turned towards the alter- native route through Syria and Mesopotamia, the ex- ploration of which had next to be entered on.
* Letter from Jaffa, September '2, 1830, Appendix No. 1.
12 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER n.
OUTLINE OP A JOURNEY THROUGH PALESTINE AND STRIA, WITH REFERENCE TO AN OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA.
CHAP, I QUITTED the scene of my recent enquiries with the
JLm.9
' most agreeable and enduring recollections. Other countries may and do interest the traveller deeply; but to the historian, the architect, or the archaeologist, Egypt presents imrivalled attractions; nor are these lessened by the fact that the traveller enjoys there every kind of comfort, coupled with a degree of serenity, nowhere else to be experienced out of Bri- tish territory, in the East.
Very different conditions awaited me in the countries through which I was now to carry on my mission of exploring the route by the Euphrates. From Arrived at Jaffa, I devoted a short time to reporting
jj^. ^ the results of the Egyptian investigation, which are explained in the letter to Sir Eobert Gordon, above referred to ; and then proceeded on a preliminary journey, with a view to becoming acquainted with the general aspect and condition of the district lying between the Euphrates and the Syrian coast of the Mediterranean.
The queries under which I was acting,* pointed out
♦ Chap. I. pp. 4, 6.
PROPOSED EXAMINATION OP THE EUPHRATES. 13
TO principal lines of communication between the chap. rrian coast and the Euphrates — viz., from Jafla to * — ^ — ' amascus, and on to Palmyra and Anna, and from the ay of Antioch and Aleppo to Beles ; and the compara- ^e shortness of the route from Scanderoon to the Eiver uphrates (which in that latitude approaches to within 20 miles of theMediterranean) indicated this third point 1 the one offering the greatest fecility for the transport ■boats, as well as the means of examining the river
its greatest extent. My design was, after making Propowd careful examination of the old tracks of caravans by tiondTNor. leppo and Damascus, to proceed to Scanderoon, and syru. lence to carry a couple of boats across to Bir ; for, at •st, I did not entertain the idea of crossing that part • the Desert of Arabia which I should have traversed I had proceeded to the Euphrates by way of Palmyra, id I only contemplated at that time a passing ex- oration of the r^ions to the east of the Dead Sea.
The harbour of Jaffa, the Mediterranean terminus of v«'t to
Jafia and
le ancient lines of commerce, was first examined, so the Holy r as to justify the subsequent proceedings taken, by irection of the Government, for its survey. Thence I visited Jerusalem,* the Dead Sea, Hebron, le Jordan, and, as I proceeded northward. Mounts abor and Carmel, the fortress of Acre, the towns of azareth, Tiberias, Sidon, the remains of Tyre, and so 1 to Beirut Thence, taking a fresh departure, I issed, soon after leaving the town, the place tradition-
* I had originaUy intended giving to the puhlic my examination and tempts at yerification of the different sites of interest, hoth in Jerusa- n, and to the eastward and westward of the Holy City; hut this will w be done, in a mnch fuller and more satisfactory manner, by the offi- rs of the Royal Engineers, engaged in scientific researches in Palestine.
IC NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. My suspicions were fully aroused as we wound ' — • — ' through the valley, the picturesque beauty of which would have been more appreciated under other circum- stances ; at that moment, the fear that my life was in of"find^° danger was uppermost in my mind. As we proceeded, f^^^ the Arabs called upon me, two or three times, to show them where gold could be found, and showed, by unmistakable gestures, what would be the consequence of my continued refusal to enable them to discover the supposed hidden treasure.
I shall not attempt to recall my alternations of feeling during the following part of this (to me) eventful day; but I distinctly remember that the hope of extricating myself in some way from my unpleasant positiw rose above my naturally painful apprehensions, and one means of escape presented itself to me in a small double-barrelled pistol which had remained unnoticed beneath my loose jacket. It would not have been very difficult, at one of the sharp windings of the valley, to get rid of those who had planned and (as I afterwards ascertained) had actually deter- Tempta- mined to take my life. But I could not bring myself nhoot my to dccidc OH shootiug my captors unawares ; and thus enemies. ^^ proceeded until, towards the termination of the valley, they took me aside into a small mountain-basin, in which they could neither see nor be seen, excepting by some one near the crest of the overhanging moun- tain. Here the two Mitaulis placed themselves at a short distance on each side of me,— dismounted, — drew their ramrods, and proved the charges of their carbines. The thought crossed my mind that I might yet escape by ascending the steep hill — which I could do, on foot,
PROVIDENTIAL DEUVERANCJB. 17
more rapidly than the horses — and the chances of chap. their being able to hit a moving object were in my > / ^* favour ; but the wiser course seemed to be an attempt to rouse their compassion, by placing my life and money at their disposal. For an instant they seemed moved ; but the compassionate impulse passed away, and my last hour seemed all but come, when He * who neither slumbers nor sleeps * ordered it otherwise. A proridon- Syrian peasant descended the side of the mountain, and {1^ ^^ actually entered the basin where we were. His ap- pearance at once changed everything : not only the hostile action of the two Mitaulis, but even the fiendish expression of their countenances; gave way to that of seeming peace and goodvall. The peasant evidently guessed that all was not right, for he not only attended to my appeal, by consenting to remain with us, but ofiered me the usual symbol of peace, a bit of bread — which served the double purpose of reassuring me, and of furnishing me with the means of testing the intentions of the Mitaulis. After some difficulty the elder man took the bread ; the younger, after repeated solicitations on my part, followed his example, but spat it out ¥rith much indignation, as if it would have choked him.
This little episode over, we moved on, still in a westerly direction, the friendly peasant continuing with us, and soon overtook the advanced portion of our party, between whom and my companions there evi- dently existed no friendly feeling. It occurred to me that I might turn this mutual distrust to good account ; so, producing the Sultan's firman, which they placed on their heads with many demonstrations of respect, I
c
18 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, proceeded to rouse their cupidity, by displaying before w ,- — ' their longing eyes ray bag of money — ^which, being filled with gold pieces largely mixed with copper, made a great display — and was eagerly greeted with the expres- sive 'Mashallah! ' from every mouth, and cries and ges- tures of surprise and deUght I was at once told to put up my money, which had increased their mutual distrust, to an extent which at once showed itself in wranghng and bitter irritation to a great extent The storm, however, subsided without bloodshed, and it was proposed that I should decide to which party I would belong. There were only three on one side, who were the people of Mitre, four on the other belonging to the Embar- village of Akoura. I was now in a great strait, but I S^twn. had broken bread with the people of Mitre, which weighed in their favour ; my friend the peasant also seemed inchned to remain with them, and the Akoura people were less well known — all which considerations turned the scale in favour of the smaller number, with whom I moved on towards Mitre. The disappointed majority persisted in remaining near us, giving us no little annoyance, and evidently ready to be still more troublesome, and the apprehension of an attack from them only ceased when we entered the little town of Mitre. Reach The chief of our party, an old man, was received by
the inmates of his house with affectionate greetings, and showed no little anxiety to induce me to place my baggage under his roof. But, as I did not quite see the desirability of this arrangement, I remained sitting on a wall outside, until it occurred to me to make my way, leading my horse, to the Sheikh, from whom, after
Mitre.
ABRIYAL AT AND DEPARTURE FRO&I MITRE. 19
showing him the Sultan's finnan, I obtained an unwill- chap. ing and somewhat doubtful promise of protection. ^ — r-^^ My disappointment, however, at this moment was great, on finding that my valuable ally, the peasant — no doubt considering that I was now quite safe — ^had slipped away quietly, and my best efforts foiled to find out the man to whom I owe more than I can express.
Later in the evening, Anastasius and the muleteer Arrival of
, my serv&nt
made their appearance at my halting-place, the Sheikh's and horses. stable, full of excuses for their misconduct, which had been so fax redeemed, that they had ventured on after ascertaining that I was safe at Mitre. Their arrival provided me with the means of getting supper, and also brought me my gun, which gave me a feeling of confidence, notwithstanding my isolated position, among people who were the terror of this part of Syria. StiU Leare it was a question whether I could proceed with safety, until the Sultan's firman caused the Sheikh to furnish me with a reliable guide, with whom I set out for Tripoli the next morning, and the magnificently bold scenery through which T passed caused the excitement «
of the previous day's journey to be almost forgotten.
A steep descent of the mountain slope brought me to the rapid River Akoura, by the side of which my guide RiTcr and I found a passage cut tlirough the rock, with a spa- cious cave adjoining it — partly artificial, and partly oatuial. Here we had our last sight of Mitre, and of the mountain-side, the scene of the previous day's ad- venture. Several villages were passed, as we advanced along the wooded slopes of these mountain valleys, in one of which we came upon the ruins of I he Temple Temple of of Naon ; and we reached Tripoli in the afternoon,
c 2
20 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, just as a bridal procession was issuing from the Convent ' — . — ' of St. Demetrius.
Conduct of From Tripoli I despatched, through the Consul, an lis made attested statement of the conduct of the Mitaulis, which The Sui- ^^^^ ^^ seriously taken up, that I appealed to the Sultan tan npged jq Spare the hves of the offenders, and terminated this
to spare *^ ^
their lives, affair, SO far as I was concerned, by the dismissal of Anastasius and the muleteer.
Tripoli Tripoli possesses a remarkable castle, and its environs
are interesting. A good road — a rarity in Syria — to the westward, leads the traveller through woods of oak, pine, and rich mulberry plantations, to the village of Eden, a very picturesque spot, situated amidst alpine scenery, diversified with convents, and numerous villages on the mountain slopes. A ride of eight or nine hours onward
The brought me to the far-femed Cedars of Lebanon, nine of
Leham)nf whicli Still remain in a very sheltered mountain hollow, in which their prodigious trunks are nearly hidden by the rich foUage of their pendant branches.*
Retnni by To thcse reminders of the great works of Solomon
Bh,*ftlbot to
DaBOBcus. and Hiram followed a visit to Ba'albek, once the City of the Sun — also that of Baal, the Baalath of Solomon,f and the site of the palace built by this monarch for the daughter of Pharaoh.:|; The examination of these great remains, which have now been too well described by modern travellers to need any addition from me, was followed by a journey to Damascus, with a view to other enquiries.
* For a plate of the Cedars, see vol. ii. p. 389 of ' Euphrates Expedition.'
t 1 Kings ix. 18 ; 2 Chron. riii. 6.
I Vol. i. p. 84 of ' Benjamin of Tudela,' bj A. Asher.
21
CHAPTER m.
OUTLDiE OF â–² JOUBNKT, THROUQH THE HAOUIUN AND DBGAP0U8, ON THE WAT TO THE BIYEB EUPHRATES.
Os reaching the Syrian capital, with the intention of chap. continuing my journey to the eastward, I found, to my ^- â– ' serious disappointment, that there was no immediate possibility of getting onward to Scanderoon, from whence I proposed conveying two boats across the country, in order to form them into a raft, to navigate the Euphrates. This part of my plan being thus frus- trated, I thought that this inopportune delay might yet be turned to good account, by an examination of proposed the countries lying eastward and westward of the River S^of* Jordan, especially as I found, from a communication ^"^^^ received from the Foreign Office, that it had been ^fthe
° ^ Jordan.
proposed to Gbvemment that the mails should be carried from India as far as the town of Hit, and from this place, across the country, to one of the ports on the Mediterranean coast — such as Beirut, Tripoli, or Sidon, &c. Having received a copy of Consul-General Farren's letter on this subject to the Foreign Office,* I felt that there was now an opportunity of ascertain- ing whether any such preponderating advantages could exist as would compensate for a long land-joumqr from Hit, instead of the shorter and easier ascent of
* October 16, 1834, to the Secret Committee of the Honourable Ka»t India Company, through the Foreign Office.
r
22 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, the river to the neighbourhood of Aleppo. With tlie ._ — ^ — . assistance of the acting French Consul (M. Baudin), my preparations were soon made ; and Mr. George Eobin- A fellow- son, who happened to be then travelling through Syria, was quite ready to join me. As the best means of accomplishmg our object, we enlisted the services of a Sheikh travelling apothecary, Sheikh Woofa, who, in his ^^^*' capacity of a wandering practitioner, was well ac- quainted with the people of the country through which we had to pass. Horses and other necessaries pro- start from vided, we started from Damascus ; and although imto- *"* ' ward circumstances greatly curtailed our plans, we still managed to visit a considerable portion of the country lying to the eastward of the Dead Sea. Anxious, however, to carry the reader on to the great object of my journeys, and of this work — the descent and navigation of the Euphrates— I shall merely enume- rate here a few of the places visited in the Decapolis. Directing our course to the southward, on quitting EiKessou- Damascus, our first night's halt was at El Kessouan; and passing from thence by Deir Ali, we arrived at Missema. Misscma the next afternoon, where many remains and inscriptions mark the site of ancient Phenesus. Onwards a winding path brought us after dark to an Arab tent, Hospitable wlicrc wc werc hospitably welcomed, and which we recep ion. ^^^^^ ^^^^ momiug, to our surprise, formed part of an
Arab camp, which was ensconced in one of the sinuous openings of the singular pathway, which winds in concentric curves through vast masses of volcanic rock. The egress from this camp was so diflBcult, that it required one of the tribe to guide us out through the succession of winding passages, which at eveiy turn
VISIT TO 8HAARA AKD KERATIIA. 23
seemed to be altogether closed. At length, however, ohap. we were clear of the rocks, and passmg a stony plain, ^ ^7'-> we halted at Shaara, where about a hundred Chris- shaar*. tian and Druse families still occupied a portion of the remains of a once considerable city, which is now surrounded by an almost continuous rocky waste, bearing however, at intervals, marks and remains of its former populous condition.
On quitting Shaara, we passed the ruins of two towns both bearing the name of Oreb, and going onward, by the inhabited villages of Hubab and Zebel, we halted at Keratha. A castle and a large square Kentha. tower are still in good preservation amidst these re- mains, which contain many Greek inscriptions. Having copied several of these, our onward journey was re- sumed; and having visited the extensive remains of Shagga, we halted for the night at Zarava, or Ezra. Em. This must at one time have been a considerable city, since its various temples and other buildings still occupy a space of about four miles in circumference. The present inhabitants, who are chiefly Greeks, and few in number, occupy some of the ancient buildings, which, being substantially constructed of stone, are still in a complete state of preservation.
Having completed our examination, and copied some of the mmierous Greek and Arabic inscriptions which we found, a visit to the ruins of Sour followed ; and passing onward by the villages of Assim and Louban, we halted at Deir DhamL It ¥ra8 almost dark when we arrived ^ir
Dhami*
at the Bedouin camp of Sal6, in the vicinity of this place, which consisted of some 20 tents, to which bright lighto guided our steps, and here we sought the usual
24 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPERATES EXPEDITION.
hospitality. This, however, was given by the Sheikh with evident reluctance, owing, as we discovered, to the apprehension of an attack from a neighbouring tribe. But this first difficulty being overcome, our host con- sented to conduct us to some of the neighbouring ruins. Daylight showed that we had entered quite a labyrinth of rocks ; but imder the guidance of our now willing host, Mr. Eobinson and I were enabled to examine Deir Dhami and other ruins of interest, after which we resumed our route, although our animals had been left without food.
LeBTeSai^. Taking an easterly direction, on quitting Sale we found the passages towards Om Ezultum so sinuous, and so much circumscribed by masses of rock, that even our guide at one time halted, and looked round almost in despair of finding an exit. His un- certainty, however, was but momentary, and a more open road was speedily found. During the four hours which were occupied in going through this singular district, the ruins of Boyer were seen at intervals through this wilderness of rocks, between which, the scantiest patches of cultivation occasionally ap- peared. Some little distance onward, we came, on the declivity of Jebel Haouran, to the remains of Soueda, with its numerous inscriptions ; and passing subsequently remains of other cities, we halted for the night at
om Ezui- Om Ezultum. Next morning we visited the temples, cisterns, and other remains of this once extensive city, which now scarcely contains thirty families of Druses ; and then rode on to Shobba, now the principal seat of this singular people. Here we found a theatre, some temples, cisterns, and numerous strongly-built
t&m.
RUINS OF KANOUAT, AATTL, AND 80UEDA. 25
dwellings, some of which are occupied by the present chap. inhabitants. At Zimri, in the immediate vicinity of
this place, we saw the remains of a Doric temple, and pioTof*™' those of a spacious square tower, firom which the ex- ^°^ tensive ruins of Shakka were visible. About two hours' distance from the latter place we came, unexpectedly, upon the small but beautiful temple of Salem, on the •ndSaiwa. front of which is a long Greek inscription, which we copied, and then ascended the western side of the adjoining hill to Kanouat.* • The ancient upper as well as the lower town are 't^.*'" ■?*
. . ruins of
here quite distinguishable, while the remains of temples, Kanonat. palaces, theatres, and churches are very extensive. There were also numerous broken statues, several tombs, columns, and one or two very massive buUdings, which were aU but hidden by luxuriant oaks.
From Eanouat we visited the columns and other remains of Aatyl, and then went on to Soueda, the R«naiMof
. , Aatyl and
ruins of which cover a space of nearly four miles in Souoda. circumference- They are partially inhabited by Druses. Passing by Ezra, travelling over a plain of rich black soil, we reached Miniken in the evening, where it had Mmiken been arranged that we should meet our Arab escort.
The Sheikh received us with more than doubtful hospitality, and our intended guide, who we ascertained had arrived at the camp, did not come to our quarters, which had a suspicious appearance. It was with difficulty that we obtained sufficient space in a cattle- shed to lie down for the night, while we had to depend on what our saddlebags could furnish in the way of food. However, late in the evening, the Arab chief
* Kenaih : Nuuiben, xxxii. 42.
26 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Hattib appeared, and, after a good deal of diflSculty, he - / ^ agreed to conduct us (by Jerash and Souan) to Petra, in
order to proceed from the latter place round the Dead
Agreement Sea. For this service Hattib was to receive 600 hard
Hattib. piastres ; and as he was in the habit of conducting the
pilgrims to Mecca, our arrangements seemed most satis-
sheikii factory, both to Mr. Eobinson and myself. Sheikh
leaves us. Woofe, howcvcr, HO doubt thought otherwise, for he
suddenly announced to us that the services, which he
had performed so faithfully, were now to be at an end ;
and he turned his steps homeward the next morning,
after being well compensated for his trouble, while we
continued our projected journey, although, as the
sequel proved, with sadly misplaced confidence.
We passed the villages of Ham and Botta, and halted jy^Y for the night at Daal. We all occupied one spacious apartment ; the Arabs arranged their lances and other arms along the walls ; coffee was served, followed by the An Arab usual pilau of boilcd wheat, in the shape of a little pyra- mid, with small pieces of broiled meat scattered over its surface. Some sixteen hungry individuals, after passing a little water over the fingers of the right hand, hastily squatted round this ponderous dish, and its contents speedily disappeared. Another dish of the same size being brought, a second set of Arabs took the places of the first. A third party now came, and finally a fourth. When all had supped, and were seated along the walls of the apartment, coffee was again served all round ; and the evening meal being thus completed, Hattib produced a primitive guitar, and his barbarous attempt at music concluded our first evening's entertainment, after which all settled themselves to rest for the night.
•npper.
A&ICS A5D EQUIPMENTS OF THE ABAB8. 27
Whilst preparing to depart early next morning, a phap. slight meal was brought, consisting of some poor v^e- -- — . — ' table broth called chotiba, with bread freshly baked on a girdle, and a Kttle thick sour milk (yaourt). Our meal was followed by the usual bustUng scene of mounting ; and quitting Daal, we resumed our desert journey, QuitDwo. during which we had ample time and opportunity of becoming acquainted with the composition and capabili- ties of our Arab escort. Some of our party were Arms and armed with the djereed or dart, others with pistols or mc^u of matchlocks ; many had sabres, and nearly every ^ * " • individual had an Arab spear, which, having a bamboo shaft or handle, is peculiarly light and very manageable. This is quite eight feet long, and has at the lower ex- tremity a spike, to strike into the ground on halting, and at the other a short spearhead, protruding beyond a fringe of either black or white ostrich-feathers. Our Arabs, as we ascertained subsequently, belonged to the Aniza tribe, and each was mounted on a handsome mare, and had a sleeping-rug made of very thick cloth, which in the daytime was rolled up and placed behind his saddle. With the exception of our leader, who wore a rich silk dress under a handsome white bour- Their nouse, Hattib's people had the usual striped cloak, and a handkerchief placed over the head with the two comers hanging down, and kept in its place by means of a turban of rolled woollen thread, which is so pecu- liarly Arab. The whole party were evidently animated by joyous feelings, as we moved onward over a bare undulating country, though with good soil.
Having passed the ruined castle of Hudhr, and afterwards tlic two villages of Mezira, the spirits
28
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, of tlie children of the desert gave rise to a most * — r-^ lively scene ; and what had hitherto been an orderly march, very cautiously conducted, with two scouts in advance, and others moving in parallel lines on the Desert flanks, bccamc quite an exempUfication of desert war- fare. In one case, some five or six, with their lances firmly at rest, and projecting three or four feet in front of their horses' heads, were seen advancing at fiill speed ; but just when on the point of meeting those who awaited their onset as enemies, they suddenly brought up, by throwing their horses on their haunches ; and •whirling round at the same instant, they retreated with all speed, and continued to do this pursued by their enemies, till such a position was reached as enabled them to halt and face about to defend them- selves in turn. t^ An Arab Elsewhcrc on the plain another, and no less in- ment. " teresting, exercise was going on at the same time — that of hurling the djereed. This performance is, in reality, the tournament of the desert, knightly prowess being here represented by the skill and activity of the Arab. He goes at full speed till close to his supposed enemy, when, having hurled his weapon with great impetus against the foe, he wheels about without even check- ing his steed, and gallops away, closely pursued by the party attacked. A few hours after these interesting displays of Arab skill, we enured that part of the Bwhan. country which represents ancient Bashan. Now pro- ceeding along the eastern limits of the latter territory, and passing the remains at Daal, we halted at Draa (once Edrei), which place having been taken from its
ARAB ORDER OP MARCH AND BIVOUAC. 29
giant masters by the conquering Israelites,* the land chap. became ' desolate from all that is therein.'f Here we ' — r-^ found an extensive cistern of 120 yards long by 64 yards e^^' wide — also part of an aqueduct and other remains, which cover a space of about three miles in circumference. The modem buildings are a mosque (which had once been a fine edifice), a bath, and numerous dwellings, generally in a ruinous state. We remained at this place the whole of the next day, and during this enforced delay I set out to visit Mezerib, which was hkely to be in- teresting ; but my intention was frustrated by Hattib, who followed me, promising that I should have another opportunity of going thither, but that I must now return.
We left Draa still with the firm belief that Hattib Onward was about to complete his engagement, and under this impression our journey was continued to the south- ward. Two Arabs were always stationed on each Arab order flank, and two in advance ; whose figures were par- ^ ""^ ticularly conspicuous as we followed them over the bare swelling hills, which are well suited for sheep-pasture. Leaving the round hill caUed Jebel Hadra about a mile to the right, we bivouacked in a narrow valley, containing chiefly silver poplars. Here, after picketing horses, and making a light supper, the Arabs covered and bi- themselves, the head especially, in the portable sleep- ing-rug4l which each had brought behind his saddle ; and all were speedily sound asleep.
The result of my remonstrances with Hattib, about
* * Og the king of Bashan and all his people went to the battle of Edrei.' (Numbers zxi. 83.) t Exekiel xU. 19. t These nigs were of very thick cloth, like that known as wad mill tilt.
Youac.
80 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, quitting the direct line through Mezerib, had not been
• — . — ' altogether satisfactory to me ; and I therefore took
advantage of the bright moonlight, while all our
A moon- pcoplc wcrc sunk in sleep, to ascend the adjoining hill,
TOirey. and take bearings of Mezerib, Szalt, Bozra, and other
places. But when I wished to retrace my steps, I
could see nothing of our bivouac, which had been
so judiciously placed in a nook on one side of the
valley in which it lay, as to be quite concealed. It
was only after wandering about for some time, that I
managed to find our sleeping party.
Our journey was resumed with dayhght, and we Valley of halted a little later in another valley — that of the Nahr-
Nahr-el- . , .
Kwab. el-Kasab, thick with well-grown poplars, oaks, and pines, and where quite a wood of oleanders was sparkling in the morning light. The latter, being of a convenient size, quickly supplied our Arabs with materials for two or three bright fires, round which they squatted in circles. After a brief rest, our journey was resumed, and followed at first the course of the stream running through the valley, but eventually took a more southerly direction. We passed over undulating pasture-ground covered with flocks of sheep, without seeing anything like a shepherd. Towards noon, to our surprise, Hattib First Tiew Suddenly turned his horse round, vociferating, with great ofAmmaiu animation, * Amman— Amman ! ' while at the same moment, being on elevated ground, we made out some buildings on the distant hills, and descried, through an opening between them, a httle farther on, the Nahr- Amman winding between two ranges of hills, on the slopes of which were several remarkable buildings. The Arabs halted, as is their usual custom, short of
EABBOrn OF THE AMMONITES. 31
tlie ruins, and we prepared, with great delight, to avail chap. ourselves of this unexpected opportunity of examining - — r-^ them. A visit to Amman had formed no part of our agreement with our escort ; but as they had brought us to its neighbourhood, we determined to propitiate them by the present of a sheep, anticipating that, during the time occupied by their feast and its preparation, we should be able to accomplish a visit to the ruins.
The sheep was received with delight, and they at Amb once excavated a sufficient space to contain the animal, roasting lighting a fire at the bottom of the hole, and placed the baking, sheep without being skinned upon it, and then closed the aperture, covering it with sods and earth to facili- tate the baking process. We subsequently learnt that this was satisfactorily accomplished, and that the roast- ing of the sheep occupied about two hours ; while excel- lent thin cakes of bread were baked simultaneously, in a similar though smaller oven hollowed out in the ground.
While our Arabs were thus agreeably employed, Examina-
tion of tho
Mr. Bobinson and I hastened to the ruins of Amman, mins of and to expedite matters each undertook to visit and examine a separate portion of these remains, which, as Babboth of the Ammonites, belong at least to the very earliest period of Jewish history. My part b^an with what seemed to be almost the source of the stream, which runs over a paved bed, and winds on- wards between handsome stone- built quays, which in some places are still almost perfect. Following the stream, between various remains on both sides, we arrived at a portion of the early city which excited all our attention. Near the left bank stood a most re- markable building, in the form of a half hexagon, the
32
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. III.
Ancient public prome- nade.
Grand theatre at Amman.
centre of which contains a semicircular arch and recess, while in the centre of the other two sides of the figure there is a similar recess, though of smaller dimensions than the first A wall, lower than that of the main building, but of similar construction, is carried on some distance, and the remains of a hne of columns, parallel to the front of this structure, mark the limits of what was probably, originally, a public walk, not un- like, though superior to, that of the hot wells at Clifton. A httle below this part of the city, there is a fine bridge, the only one still remaining ; and a little farther to the west are hues of columns, which appear originally to have formed an extensive quadrangle, and to have been connected with the two theatres, on the south- west side of the stream, which constitute the most striking features of the ruins. The first of these, which occupies the side of the hill, with its opening towards the river, is 128 feet in diameter, exclusive • of the depth of the seats, of which there are 42 rows, all of cut stone. These are in three divisions, with fourteen rows of seats in each, access to every place being secured by means of passages, and sloping galleries at intervals. This was the largest and alto- gether the most perfect theatre which I ever saw during my various journeys. At a right angle, and close to this structure, there is a smaller theatre of about 100 feet in diameter, which is now in a ruinous state. It appears to have had three entrances, and the remains of five rows of seats may still be traced. A line of columns marks the limits of a square enclosure, having the river in the centre of the space, which pro- bably was appropriated to horse and gymnastic exercises.
TH£ CASTLE AND TEMPLE OF AMKAX. 33
The former city appears to have been built close to the chap. northern hills, on the crest of which are the massive ^ — r-^— ' walls of the Castle of Amman, and within these are c*"^« »f
Amman.
portions of a Corinthian temple, and several cisterns cut in the rock. The remains of houses fill up the rest of the space, which has the form of a parallelogram. A little way to the eastward, the walls of the ancient city were conspicuous ; but before there was time even to commence our examination in this direction, Hattib appeared, and urged our immediate departure, in order to avoid ' an expected attack,' In any case, our investigation of the ruins was all but completed, and we therefore acceded to his request ; and taking a southerly direction, as before, we passed between the village of Um-el-Khalid, which occupied the summit of a low hill on our right, and the tumulus of Djaleed on our left. The Arabs entertain a feeling of deep veneration for this tumulus, which contains (they say) the bones of Hamed, the builder both of Amman and of J crash.
^n undulating pasture-country brought us to a cul- tivated spot, which was to be our camping-place for the night. This was the Arab encampment of Gait-el- oait-ei- Sook, which extended for some distance along a valley, ^^p^°ent receding in a northerly direction. Eobinson and I were about the last of our party to arrive, and we found the long lances of our Arabs placed at the entrance of the tents, and their horses already picketed outside, while it was some time before we could find any accommodation. A general supper had been pre- pared for the whole party, however, in which we had been included, and our allotted portion of goat's flesh
34
NAKBATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP.
m.
Suleiman,
Bedouin
village.
Wadi Hamming
HattiVf Unt.
Reception bj Hattib.
and soup were most acceptable after our long day's march.
We were hurried to horse before daylight the next morning, without being able to procure even a little water. We passed flocks of sheep, watched by a solitary Arab, here and there, and stopped to dine at the Bedouin village of Suleiman.
During this halt we visited the remains of Grezia, which occupy three adjoining hills, but the ruins are of but little interest. They consist chiefly of unim- portant arched buildings ; but there is a fine dstem of cut stone, 130 feet long by 90 wide, and 20 feet deep, and the remains of an aqueduct, which show that some place of importance must have existed in this vicinity at one time.
Besuming our journey in the afternoon, we crossed the great caravan route leading to Mecca, and entered Wadi Hamman ; taking, as usual, the precaution of sending some well-mounted men in advance, and placing others at a little distance on each flanL Having proceeded thus cautiously for some time after dark, the proximity of numerous tents and the barking of dogs led us to expect our usual halt for the night. To our great surprise, however, we found that we had been deceived, and that Hattib had conducted us to the encampment of his own tribe, of which his tent formed the centre. Here he was warmly greeted by the inmates of his harem, and, turning to his guests — his mind, as it soon appeared, ftiU of the most sinister designs — he paid us the Spanish compliment of assuring us that all was at our disposal.
Crowds of visitors filled his spacious tent without
EXACTIONS OP HATTIB. 35
intennission, and the various household occupations chap. and hospitality of the evening meal restored in some — r-^ degree a feeling of confidence in our host. Towards bedtime, supper was brought from the harem, which was only separated from the exterior or men's apart- ment by a thin curtain. The viands consisted of bits of meat rolled up inside thin cakes of bread, and a dish of prepared raisins, which was followed by a huge pUaiL Stories were told of the doings of the Aniza Arabs during previous journeys and a cup of coffee ended the evening's entertainment.
The prosecution of our journey was naturally up- permost in our thoughts, but whenever we approached the subject it was met by excuses, which soon told us that Hattib was determined to exact more than the stipulated sum — which, as is usual in all Arab trans- actions, had been paid in full in advance — before carrying out his agreement. No sooner did I under- stand this, than I made up my mind to leave the encampment, and started by myself, purposing to take Leare a direct line over the moimtains to the Jordan. In camp. * less than an hour I heard shouts of ' Tal — tal ' ( * Come back ' ) to which I turned a deaf ear, and continued to proceed, imtil Yahia, one of Hattib's men, and a com- panion with him, appeared in front of me, to bar farther progress. I produced my double-barrelled ovfrtaken pistol, and they gave way. I went on, when Hattib ^Jj^s^and himself came up, mounted on his fleet mare ; and seeing h»^^- at once that I was prepared to resist him, the Arab chief cantered round me at the distance of about six paces, his carbine placed against his shoulder, resting on his bridle«rm, and his dark rolhng eye appearing
D 2
36 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, above the barrel of the piece, showing unmistakably ' — r-^— - that it was aimed at my person ; and thus it was kept, whilst, at a hand-gallop, Hattib continued to circle round me, using menacing expressions, which left little doubt as to what would be the result if I persisted a moment longer in my purpose. It therefore flashed across my mind, that submission was the only chance of saving my hfe ; and, by way of proving that resistance Suprendep was at an end, I instantly sat down, placing my pistol on one side as I did so. On perceiving that there was no longer anything to apprehend, the two Arabs came up, and proceeded to take their revenge by beating me in a cowardly manner. Hattib also dismounted, and approached with his drawn sabre, apparently de- termined to cut me down.
My submission, however, diverted him from his purpose, although he continued his angry menaces until we reached his tent, which I at first refused to enter, and, turning my back upon those who had so out- rageously violated the sacred laws of hospitality, I vented my feelings in the epithet ' Harrami,' meaning 'Eobbers.' Being, however, quite in their power, they forced me to enter the tent, where I took my seat beside my travelling companion in no enviable frame of mind. The tent was crowded with Usteners and talkers dis- cussing the events of the day, which led — in some way which my imperfect knowledge of Arabic did not Fracas permit me to comprehend — to a serious fracas. I could Arabs. understand that my attempted escape was the cause of the excitement, and of the punishment inflicted by Hattib on those of his followers who seemed to be taking my part ; but when this had subsided, he reverted to
RESUMPTION OF OUB JOURNEY. 37
his engagement, and, as a proof of his sincerity, actually chap. quitted his camp the next morning, with a numerous ' — r-*— ' escort, who were however, we noticed, without their usual travelling accompaniments of rugs, while much whispering and mysterious signs made us fear that all was not right. We travelled over an undulating country, admirably fitted for sheep-pasture, and passed the ruins of the town of Ain-es-Zebaid, which lie in a valley on the great Hajji route ; a Uttle farther on we reached the Castle of Jael, occupying an eminence, and reminding me forcibly, by its structure, of the Vale Castle in Guernsey. Near this place we passed a large herd of camels browsing over these undulating downs, guarded by two mounted Arabs. Four hours' riding brought us within sight of Om-el-Rassas (Mother Om-ei- of Lead), about which place we had heard a great "**' deal. A distant view of its lofty walls and towers promised to realise our expectations, but a nearer inspection disappointed us ; for we found its buildings and reservoirs, although extensive, quite uninteresting in themselves. The neighbouring lead-mine might, however, again become of importance.
I had scarcely completed my examination of the ruins of Om-el-Eassas, when Eobinson brought me the unexpected intelligence, that Hattib and his tribe had departed for Medina, taking all the cash they could Y»hia an
, conductor.
find in our travelling-bags. They had not, however, left us entirely to our own resources. Two Arabs had remained behind, ostensibly for the purpose of con- ducting us to the ruins which were still to be visited ; but my misgivings were seriously increased when I perceived that the individual belonging to Hattib's
38 NARRATIVE OF THB EUPHRATB8 EXPEDITION.
CHAP, tribe, on whom we were to depend, was no other than ^Ji^Yaliia, who had already beaten me so shamefuUy. Still, as we were tlieir equals in number, I cx)nsoled myself with the reflection that I could either leave them at any time, or — if I fancied it desirable to remain rather than compromise Mr. Eobinson's safety — we could either discharge the fellows, or force them to obey us. Tent* of We therefore continued our route, halting in the after- noon at the tents of Akfou, where — no doubt in accordance with a previous arrangement of Yahia — we were joined by another of Hattib's people ; and they informed us that our liberation was to depend on their receiving a considerable ransom from Damascus, for which my head was to be answerable, and which (I now learnt for the first time) had been promised by my companion. I had been no party to this com- promise, and therefore considered myself at Uberty to Intended cscapc, which I proposcd attempting, by creeping out from beneath the tent after nightfall, and making my way round the Dead Sea to Jerusalem. Mr. Bobinson however thought, naturally enough, that such a step would compromise his safety, which decided me to remain, and confine myself to sending our Greek boy to Szalt, or (failing assistance from thence) to Damascus, to procure funds and aid of some kind. It was under these uncomfortable circumstances that we quitted tlie hospitable tents of Akfou the next morning.
We passed in succession the ruins of El-Hurry, Ain-Madaba with its pyramids, those of Grezia also, and halted about noon at the Arab . tents of Delola. Here we got some bread after a short rest, and rode for four hours over a fine grassy plain to Madaba, where
escape.
MADABA AND HESfiAN. 39
we found the ruins of a temple, the site of an extensive cbaP.
Ill town, and a cistern 130 yards long by 100 wide, and — .-'-^
fiilly 18 feet deep, surroimded by a massive stone wall. ^*^^*- Soon after leaving Madaba, our guards pulled up on the Plaiti of Hesban ; and here they got Mr. Bobinson to enter into a solemn agreement with them, in the name of Allah and his Prophet, to the effect that a Ransom certain sum of money was to be paid to them as we ^'^"* approached Damascus. I was no party to this agree- ment ; but Yahia evidently now felt secure of our ransom, and professed himself ready to proceed with our journey.
We passed the temple and shortly afterwards the HmUb. castle of Hesban, and sought hospitality for the night at the tents of the people of this place, which were very numerous, covering a large square of ground. The evening had almost closed in when we arrived, but there was still sufficient light to enable us to enjoy the scenery, which was very attractive ; indeed, we were greatly delighted with its beauty the following morning, when, aft;er a cup of coffee, we left the camp at sun- rise. We travelled until noon through a succession of valleys, richly wooded with oaks and other fine timber, to Lisury, where the Arab tents, like those at Hesban, inifixy. were pitched in a square, and in a sheltered recess on the western side of this rich and fertile valley. Here we had to go through another curious scene with our guards, for Yahia, backed by the people of Insury, ^^*|*^, made such exorbitant demands as must have put us to serious inconvenience. But their exactions were all agreed to by my companion, and with good reason, for he had been made to understand, unmistakably,
40 NAKBATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
^m^* that my head was at stake in case of any hesitation on his part.
From Insury we took a northerly direction, passing through a succession of richly- wooded hills, below which we could discern the Dead Sea and trace the River Jordan, with a mountain range behind it, charac- terised by bare and rocky slopes. During the early part of the day our road lay through hills clothed with oak, fir, &c., whUe the oleander, balsam, and other shrubs were clustered in the sheltered ravines.
Early in the afternoon we reached the village of £aga- lameen, where Yahia announced that we were to remain until nightfall, that we might pass by some dreaded Arabs in the dark. Coffee was brought, and dinner followed, in the shape of a dish called /atofe, which consists of boiled meat swimming in oil. After our repast we visited the remains of the palace and temple of the mined town of Meidan Abu, and saw some rude troglodyte dwell- ings on the side of the mountain to the westward. It was near daybreak before Yahia was ready to move on, when we ascended a hill following our guide, and entered a valley running to tlie northward. Some questions were interchanged here with some people in the wood, two of whom, armed with long guns, were seated on the side of the hiU over- hanging our path. A Uttle farther on five more Arabs appeared, then two more at another spot ; and Yahia did not fail to make the most of the perils we had escaped, and (no doubt as a reward for his own good management) he and his companions halted to examine our travelling-bags once more. Neither Eobinson nor I had the least idea that anything had escaped their rapa-
SCENEET EASTWARD OF THE JORDAN. 41
city at Om-el-Rassas ; but 600 piastres, the wages we had chap.
III.
paid to our boy Giblain,* were most unexpectedly ^ found on his person,, of which, in addition to Mr. Robinson's pocket telescope, the two Arabs took pos- session ; and we then moved on with unabated interest, notwithstanding our uncomfortable situation, througli more lovely scenery than can be imagined. Around us the bright blossom of the apricot trees, now in full bloom, came out in beautiful contrast with the apple of Sodom, and the dark foliage of the evergreen oak ; the various feeders of the Jordan sparkled and were par- tially hidden by the bright glossy leaves of the oleander ; whilst through occasional openings in the foliage we again had glimpses of the Dead Sea and River Jordan, shut in to the westward by a rugged range of lofty mountains. Beyond we caught a distant view of Szalt — a cheering sight to us under present circumstances.
It was in the midst of this exquisite scenery that, to oiu: surprise, our two Arabs sat down to count their booty ; and as the money was in small pieces of mixed ' metal, this became a very tedious operation. They were p . seated on the ground quite absorbed in their task, their master the
, , two Arabv,
sabres laid on one side ; and I pouited out to my com- panion, that if we each seized one of the fellows by the shoulders, and pulled them back at the same time, they would be completely in our power, especially as we could avail ourselves of their arms. But Mr. Robinson felt doubtful of success, and, to my great mortification, the opportunity was lost. The small Turkish pieces were counted at length, and replaced in the purses of
* This boy had remained, being afraid to undertake the propo<^ed jour- ney to Damascus for help.
42 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, their temporary possessors ; and we resumed our onward route, which soon brought us within sight of Szalt
^^ Yahia at once rode forward, to give, as we afterwards 8^ ascertained, his own version of our affairs. Left to himself, the remaining Arab became so intolerably inso- lent that my patience gave way, and seizing a stick, I made use of it so effectually that the fellow was about to make his escape, when I took Mr. Bobinson's gun — which, by Yahia's desire, had been loaded the pre\iou8 morning in anticipation of an attack — and called out, The .Arab j^ i]^^ ^ost threatening tone ' Tal — tal * (' Come back'), prifoncr. which, thanks to the long fowling-piece, he did at a snail's pace, and we took him as a prisoner into Szalt Here we found Yahia in the public room, holding forth to the people, with whom he seemed to be on the best of terms. Reception Coffcc being brought, as usual, our case was formally *" ^'"^'* but very briefly stated in the Medhan's court. Yahia, nothing daunted, then made his statement, which was to the effect that he had been chosen for the purpose of taking us safely to Damascus ; and that he had not robbed us, but only taken our money in order to secure it for us, although (as he seemed to imply) I had no claim to such kind consideration, having presented my pistol at him at one time, purposing to shoot him. His dogged tone and manner while saying this were Our case altc^ethcr different from the subdued account given by his companion, and the result of the hearing was that our money was to be restored, and that both Arabs were to be detained prisoners. Yahia expressed much indig- nation at this result, which, as we afterwards found, he had but little reason to expect, and he said, when restoring our money, that he would be revenged. The
VISIT TO SZALT WITH AN BBOOBT. 43
affair thus adjudicated was followed by a substantial chap. repast, to which, to our great surprise, Yahia (although ^ ^ -.> still a prisoner) was invited. But this was going rather ^^T^ ^ too far, and we objected most decidedly to sit down with him, and, after some discussion and altercation, we carried our point, and were served apart
We now hoped to make such arrangements as would enable us to accomplish our visit to Jerash, to which place Hattib was to have taken us. After many diffi- culties we succeeded in obtaining a strong guard, and left Szalt for that purpose. Yahia set out at the same yahu time, having persuaded the authorities to give him a ^^ memorandum for his chief Hattib, to the effect that he had conducted us thus far in safety. It was thus made dear to us, that although the inhabitants of Szalt had felt obliged to afford us some protection, they had no intention of offending the powerful Hattib ; and as his surly lieutenant was now at Uberty, there was good reason to fear some hostile proceedings on his part, if delay on our side should give him sufficient time to mature his plans. We were not, therefore, free from evil forebodings.
Szalt is, of itself, far from being without interest. Dewnp- From the hill above the town there is a commanding aiaUt! view of the mountains, particularly of those westward towards the Jordan, which are very remarkable in out- line, and extremely interesting. Mount Pisgah (or Nebo) and Jebel Mousa stand out ccmspicuously, and form part of this extensive view.
On quitting Szalt we proceeded, in a north-westerly direction, through a mountainous and very beautifu. country, its subordinate hills being clothed to their summits with valonia, oaks, arbutus, myrtle, and many
44 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, other graceful shrubs. We passed a little to the right
lU.
' of Nebi Osha or Hausa (the 'Tomb of Osha'), and Osha. ° visited the ruins of Ammon, and so on by Jebel Djelaab (probably Eamoth in Gilead).* We remained for the night in the stone-built village of Jezaren.
During the evening we unexpectedly received a hint, to be cautious. Two strangers arrived from the neigh- bourhood of Jerash, and were, like ourselves, guests in the public room. Among the tales which, as- usual, went round after coffee, our attention was excited by hearing that some Arabs were waiting at Jerash, to attack some travellers who were on their way to see the ruins. This was far from pleasant, but ^^^\ our strong escort of sixteen armed men giving us confidence, we went on, and reached Jerash early the following afternoon, and at once set to work to examine these most interesting remains.
We kept moving about from place to place, and I had nearly finished my examination, especially of the eastern side of the ruins, and was about to return to the escort, when I perceived the point of a lance, with its unmistakable fringe of black ostrich-feathers, peeping about the buildings, followed by a second, and then by a third. Beheving that there was little cause for appre- hension, with such ample protection at hand, and being quite unencumbered, I hastened through the debris, which made the ground so broken and difficult that no horse could have overtaken me, and so found my com- panion and the escort. Our party at once came forward, and made known to the hostile Arabs that we were under The Beni- their protection. A long parley ensued, which ended
• Deut. iv. 43.
THE RUINS OP JBRASH. 45
by the withdrawal of the Beni-Szacher section of the chap.
. . Ill
Aniza to some little distance, and our people, having > — t-* — -
thus shown a bold front, urged us to hasten our depar- ture as much as possible. Under different circumstances this would have been a grievous disappointment. But, fortunately, we had already examined, with considerable care, almost every part .of the ruins of Jerash (once Gerasa).
A detailed description of these ruins would demand Ruins of more space than I can devote to it, but their site is too interesting to be quite passed over. They occupy an elevated plain on the sides of Kerouan, or Sell- Jerash, and have a circumference of more than four miles. The most . interesting portions of these remains extend from north to south, parallel to the right bank of the Kerouan, or Seil-Jerash. They consist of a bridge, two great temples, one of which almost rivals that of the Sun at Palmyra; a spacious semicircular colonnade, with the remains of two rows of columns, evidently once a street, with another crossing it at right-angles ; an aqueduct, a naumakia,* a palace, and two theatres. The higher parts of the ground on each side are occu- pied by the remains of private dwellings, and beyond these, towards the north-west, there is an extensive necropolis, with numerous finely-executed sarcophagi ; indeed, the coup cCceil of Jerash, as seen from the high view of ground on its eastern side, is one of the most striking '^®"»^- that can be imagined.
Having gratified our anxious followers by turning our backs on this ancient city, and the Beni-Szachers at the same time, we crossed the hills to the clay-built
* Race for aquatic sports.
46 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, village of Souf. Here we were well received at first,
III. ^ — ^1^ but all was changed when the people discovered that
Sou^ ^ we were almost without the means of satisfying their expectations. It was with the utmost difficulty thfll we could obtain a guard of four men, with which we quitted this inhospitable village in the morning. Our previous escort lefl for Szalt at the same time. Taking the ruins and excavations of Fokkera as we proceeded, four hours through parklike scenery brought us to
Tiim». Tibne, a town of some 500 houses, where, instead of the sordid eitactions we had lately experienced, a friendly reception awaited us ; and, after a very ac- ceptable meal, we had the pleasure of seeing Lake Tiberias before us, still as a wide-spread mirror sur- rounded by hills.
A collector of taxes was making his periodical vbit to Tiberias, and from him we expected to be able to obtain a supply of money, as well as to receive hospitality ; but we were mistaken, and had of necessity to ccmtinue our journey with an almost empty purse.
Form. A ride through picturesque hills brought us the next
evening to Forra, or Fokkera, which is a somewhat sin- gular place, the dwellings being partly in caves, and the rest consisting of tents. We were received rather unwillingly by the Sheikh, who occupied one of the former. It was spacious, and divided into two apart- ments by a row of huge earthen jars containing flour and grain. The inner part was aUotted to the females, and the horses occupied a portion of the outer division. Stories, as usual, whiled away the time in the evening,
story of ^^6 ^f which conccmed ourselves. It was the story of
^'^^ Hattib, which, to our surprise, we found had preceded
THE RUINED CEMETEBIES OF OMKftS. 47
US. As I write, the scene in the cave rises up before chap.
Ill me again. The figure of one old woman especially
stands out, as, with her hands on her sides, and literally splitting with laughter, she enjoyed the joke, ejacula- ting ^Hattib — HattibP till she could scarcely stand. They little imagined that the actors in this tale were then listening to all the merriment their misfortunes afibrded. Other tales and meagre viands, and some arrangements for the following day, closed our evemng in the cave.
The difficulties which occur, even under ordinary circumstances, in desert travelling, became almost insiumountable next morning ; but by leaving a cloak in deposit they were at length overcome, and a guide being allotted to us, we set out to visit the neighbouring ruins of Omkes Gadara. The scenery was rich and varied. We rode through a country covered with sycamores, acacias, and evergreen oaks — having on one side the village of Daboo, whose in- ^^^ habitants have a very bad name. We now b^an to ascend the adjoining mountain, and arrived shortly afterwards at the cemeteries of Omkes. Here we OmUt found many sepulchres, and scattered remains of sar- cophagi— ^both of exquisite workmanship. The former, in addition to their striking elevation, had marble doors, which moved with £eicility on a pivot of the same material, and were ornamented on the &Lce with figures in reUef. In some instances the doors were still perfect, and showed knockers also in relief. Some of the sar- a)phagi, which time has laid bare, seemed as fresh as if they had recently come out of the sculptor's hands. On one of these were three figures, finished with
num.
s
48 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, exquisite taste, and each holding part of a rich wreath ^- , '-' of flowers, and apparently dancing. In addition to these monuments, and the remains of dwellings, ancient Gadara has two theatres, two temples, a colonnade, portions of an aqueduct, and other ruins on the fece of the hill.
On returning to Forra, the difficulty of satisfying a grasping host was at length overcome with the re- maining contents of our purse, and by the sacrifice of the cloak, which was taken rather than given by way of remuneration ; and in the afternoon our joint eventful Part from joumcy was brouglit to an end, for here Mr. Robinson son. and I parted He had found a safe opportunity of
reaching Damascus, where he had funds, whilst I looked forward to obtaining some before long elsewhere. This journey, so full of exciting interest, had given rise to conflicting feeUngs in my mind towards my companion. I had been deeply disappointed when I did not find myself seconded in my impulse to seize the two Arabs while in the act of counting our money. But, as I descended the mountain alone, I began to view this, and other occurrences in which we had been mutually engaged, in a different light ; and considering that my own attempts to escape, or to visit the robbers with the punishment they deserved, might, and pro- bably would, have cost my life, it was with a grateful recognition of Mr. Eobinson's superior prudence that I proceeded on my way.
With a part of Lake Tiberias and the mountains near Jerusalem in view, a somewhat steep descent, through acacias and oaks, brought me to the banks of the Hieromax, thickly clothed with oleanders ; a little
JOURNEY FBOM TIBERIAS TO DAMASCUS. 49
farther on, that portion of the Jordan came in siglit chap.
Ill which is so mysteriously lost in the Dead Sea. I - — r-^
crossed this stream — the Havilah of the Jews, and
perhaps the most remarkable river in the world ; and
two hours brought me to the warm springs of Tiberias,
which are about a quarter of an hour's distance fix)m
the town.
Here I found an American Israelite, a Mr. Samson,
who, on hearing that I was without money, kindly
supplied my immediate wants. From Tiberias I visited
every place of interest in its neighbourhood, and then
made my way, by Mounts Tabor and Carmel, to Acre.
Here my fimds were renewed, and I continued my
journey without further adventure, by Saphet, the
Upper Jordan, and Banias, to Damascus, where, as will
be seen in the succeeding chapter, a change of plans
became unavoidable.
E
50
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAP. IV.
^- 1 '
Dec. 10, 1830.
Preparing for the desert journey.
Join thd caimvan.
JOUKNET THROUGH THE ARABIAN DESERT FROM DAMASCUS TO EL- KAIM, AND PREPARATION OF THE RAFT TO DESCEND THE BITEB EUPHRATES FROM ANNA.
Owing to the kindness of M. Baudin, a trustworthy interpreter was engaged, and a tent and other neces- saries provided ; and 1 was just on the point of leaving Damascus with my dragoman (Halil, a ren^ade Chris- tian) and his slave-boy, a child eight years old, when intelligence reached me which caused a change of plan on my part. An old Arab, who had just arrived with a caravan, brought word that a wounded English traveller was waiting at Tadmor for an op- portunity of reaching Damascus. M. Baudin at once despatched a trusty messenger, with letters both in French and English, to the supposed Frank, assuring him that the bearer would conduct him safely, and I pro- posed so to change my line of route as to enable me to find and succour this wounded traveller. Consequently, I joined our little camp outside the gate leading to Palmyra, where I found several individuals going with merchandise to Bagdad and Basrah ; one of whom was provided with the comparative luxury of a horse, notwithstanding the difficulty of carrying provender. My tent was soon added to those already pitched, and there I passed my first night, but not in sleep ; for my
THK DESERT JOUBNET COlflCEKCED. 51
mind was ftill of absorbing tlioughts of the coming chap. desert journey, and of the arrangements connected with "^ ' '— the descent of the River Euphrates.
Long before daybreak our camp was the scene of i>©c ii. bustling activity ; the tents were struck, and packed ; Fi«t'day the camels made to lie down to receive their burdens, desert to wliich their moanings (as one package was added to '^"^^^' another) showed strong objections on the part of these patient creatures. Their loads secured, they were made to rise in succession to commence the day's journey. Our leader and guide was a middle-aged Arab, named Abdallah, who had a younger man as assistant, also in some authority. These led the way, riding side by side on the ^ delul,' or liglit camel ; and they were followed by a donkey, whose pace regulated that of the camels behind him, which are allowed to spread out as they advance, for the sake of feeding on the scanty grass, camel-thorn, and other desert shrubs.
We had not yet fairly entered the desert, for we Onr first passed two villages during the day, and eight hours of me^t"*^ constant motion brought us to our first encampment. Here the camels were made to lie down, to be re- lieved of their loads, which were placed in convenient order for reloading in the morning, and the animals turned out. After being allowed to browse for two or three hours, a ball of cotton-seeds was forced down the throat of each, and they were then all made to lie down in a circle, round the tents and merchandise. Their animals thus cared for, the Arabs no longer delayed their own supper, always the principal meal of the day with them.
i
52 KAREATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. This usually consists, as it did in this case, of thin cakes of bread, and a pilau of 'bourgul/ or boiled
cooke^of wheat, mixed with some butter or oil. A few dates the Arabs. ^^^ ^^ ample supply of water completed the meal,
and sleep was indulged in almost immediately after- wards.
Our tents were pitched at some little distance on one
side of our intended route, as being less likely to be
seen ; and as we were comparatively safe from all danger
while still so near Damascus, fires were lighted, which
Directed is HOt douc whcu there is any cause for uneasiness. It
bei^ was decided by the Arabs that I was to play the part
"" *' of a deaf-and-dumb man, in case of our meeting the
Aniza or any other hostile tribe, and this rSle was
strongly impressed upon me. Early the next morning
I managed to snatch a hasty breakfast, while the Arabs
were striking and packing my tent. We next proceeded
in an ESE. direction, having some high hills and
distant mountains in sight to the westward.
For the first hour we passed through fields, but after that found ourselves entering the desert, where some wild-boars crossed our path during the day. At its close, we halted near the small clay-built town of Jeriateen. We were told to husband our supply of water (carried of course in large skins), as five days must elapse before any more could be obtained. Next day, the usual bustling confusion of loading over, we proceeded along a dead level, with a range of elevated hills on each Bfsert gi^e^ Our camcls, as they advanced, turned their long necks from side to side, to pick up either the small thorny shrub called *natour,' or the soap-plant, the *odoor ; ' they also occasionally found the ' rot^ ' or ' ro- toga,' which is eaten by them with avidity.
THIRD DAT m THE DESERT. 53
Soon after four o'clock we quitted this monotonous chap. plain, and, going a little to the right, entered a valley — /---^ running towards the ESK Here we were less ex- posed tlian on the open caravan line, and we pitched our tents, tiuned the camels out to feed, and prepared supper— the Arabs lighting fires, and baking their thin cakes of bread, as u^uaL
Notwithstanding a thick fog, we resumed our journey End of early the next morning, and found the ground quite march, ^ * damp, owing to a heavy dew. Ee-entering the valley ^** plain, which we had quitted on the previous afternoon, we proceeded nearly due east, over a flat surface some five miles broad, bounded by a range of mountains on either hand. We were told that five days must atiU elapse before any supply of water could be obtained. The scenery was of the same monotonous character as that of the previous day, until late in the afternoon, when we came in sight of a remarkable double-topped mountain which rose up in front of us, apparently bar- ring our ftirther progress. It was, however, more distant than could have been supposed, and it was sunset before we reached it, when, turning to the south-east, we entered a narrow valley at its base, in which our little camp was quite concealed fix>m obser- vation from the adjoining plain.
During the day, I had endeavoured to beguile the time by walking, and often strayed to some little dis- tance from our party, which gave rise on one occasion to a trick on the part of the Arabs, who are particularly fond of jokes, which was carried out most successfully against myself Two Arabs almost naked, and ap- feign to parently much excited, rushed wildly towards me from enenues.
54 ^'AKRAT1VE OF THB EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, beliind a hill, brandishing a stick, and yelling most voci- — r- — ' ferously . Taken completely by surprise, and being quite unarmed, I scoured across the hill, closely followed by my supposed enemies ; and on approaching the caravan, two of our people darted forward with drawn swords, as if to give me protection, and intercept my pursuers ; they still endeavoured to get at me by making a round, but being foiled, their trick and disguise came to an end, though the joke continued to be heartily enjoyed by the whole party for some time. Kiuiof Our course the following day was still NE., and
day's subsequently ESE. ; but the contour of the moun- tain-chains afforded more variety of scenery thau on the previous days, while we also found a greater abundance of small desert shrubs, among which the ' rote-de-gcmel,' with its soft green thorn, prepon- derated.
Our supply of water was by this time almost ex- hausted, so that the mere humid appearance of the ground at one spot caused unusual excitement Some of our Aitibs rushed forward, and discovered a small quantity of water in the crannies of the rocks ; a little farther on we came upon quite a small pool, which, though neither pure nor good, was hailed with delight The Arabs rushed into the water, such as it was, and commenced drinking, filling their skins, and giving it to their animals without a moment's delay, and with all the bustling scramble incidental to securing a supply for five days more. This over, we jour- neyed on until dark, and then encamped for the nighit
A sight of the hilk behind Palmyra having given
ATTEMPT TO BEACH PALMYKA FRUSTRATED, &5
me the hope of reachmg that place next day, I chap.
TV
invited our leader (Abdallah) to sup with me, in — /-^ order to make all arrangements for being conducted thither in the morning. But a dense fog delayed us until eleven o'clock, when we moved on over a slightly undulating plain tolerably well covered with long grass, in addition to the usual desert shrubs.
The mountains were lowest towards the NE., and Mounuins
nair
advancing in that direction we lost oiu* way, and P^Umyra. had to make zigzag traverses to find it again ; diuring which we came upon some puddles of rain-water, on which oiu: men and animals rushed with such avidity, that every drop was drained from the moist day. Our skins thus partially refilled, we continued our journey, and were ready to resume oiu: previous line of route in the morning ; whilst I was to make a round by Tadmor, which would have occupied about ten hours, escorted by Abdallah's nephew. Deluls, or swift camels, were Arrange-, provided for both of us, when another delay arose : S!^ the merchant's horse had strayed, and the morning *^â„¢y^ was spent by our whole party, both mounted and on foot, in searching for him. The animal was at length recovered, and I looked forward to a start in the afternoon; but I was again disappointed, and had to move on with the whole caravan over a complete desert of indurated sand and gravel, mixed with hard black stones.
Here and there, rushes and scanty shrubs showed Appear-
RDce of th*
where water had been, although, to our disappointment, desert tlie ground was now dry. A general consultation ensued, the great object of which was to decide where
56 NAfiBATlVJS OF THE EUPUBATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Water would most probably be met with : everyone
' — r^ — ' gave a different opinion, and, in the general anxiety on
this subject, Tadmor fell to the ground for the present
An hour s traveUing over a siurface of hard baked
sand and black stones brought us to the bed of a stream,
now perfectly dry ; and as danger from hostile Arabs
was apprehended, we had to pass the night without
lights or fires.
Dec. 18, The hills behind Palmyra were distinctly visible at
eighth day. g^^gg j^g^j momiug, and something like a shadow
Paim>Ta" of the Hiins was discernible. Abdallah continued to
hold out hopes of conducting me to them ; but as we
reached the expected watering-place early in the day,
our caravan had to halt, for the all-important purpose
of securing a supply of the precious fluid, and we
encamped in a circle round one of the ancient welk
Well in ^^ ^^ cased with stone, and being very deep, the
the desert, operation of drawing water was tedious ; for we had
but one leather bucket, which had to be let down
and drawn up, until all the water-skins were filled ; and
when this operation was completed, the camels had to
be supphed not only with a copious draught, but also
with a sufficient reserve to enable them to continue
their journey. The second or reserve stomach with
wliich Nature has provided this Ship of the Desert,
contains, when filled, a sufficient supply of water for
at least six days ; in some instances it has been known
to last for even nine days.
Tenth day, This busy Operation of watering left us but little time
^^' ^^' before evening closed in ; but we resumed our journey
early on the following mornings and moved forward in
the usual order, our camels feeding leisurely as they
APPREHENSION OF DANGER. 57
passed along. Early in the day we came upon some chap, fresh dung, the sight of which caused an order to halt ;
and an Arab council of war was held, the result of ^^^ which was the despatch of three of the party in ^^^' different directions, armed with matchlocks. Nothing whatever could be seen, and we resumed our journey, with the belief that the supposed enemy had left the place. About ten o'clock we halted in a secluded bend of the hills, and avoiding fires, lest the dreaded Aniza should find us out, I was again reminded that, in case of their appearance, I was to personate one deaf and dumb.
A cold supper was, however, our only privation, and we started as usual in the morning, keeping parallel to the mountain range on the western side of the valley. At this point I again attempted to reach Tadmor, or at least to send a messenger thither, but all my efforts were fruitless. Abdallah, probably to get rid of my importunities, greatly increased his demands : no messenger could be procured, and I began to suspect that our leader's real objection to earn a good reward arose from his excessive appre- hension of danger. It was not, however, until the outline of the mountain range showed that we had gone quite beyond Palmyra, that I gave up the hope of accomplishing my visit; then, indeed, I had to look forward to communication with the wounded traveller from Hit or Anna.*
The progress of our caravan was suddenly inter-
* Later, I ascertained that this account of a wounded Frank at Pal- myra was a mistake, and that Messrs. Taylor, Bowater, and Aspinall had been murdered on their way to Mosul.
58 NARRATlVfi OF THE EUPHRATES BXPEDITIOy.
CHAP, ruptcd, during the afternoon, by the cry of ' Moie — . — r^ — ' moie ! ' Every eye was turned eagerly towards the expected water, and all hurried onwards to secure some part of the supply, which, to our great disap- pointment, turned out to be nothing more than some muddy pools between the crevices of the rocks. The Arabs WhcH rcsumiug our journey early the next morning, BunTs h ^ I observed that our leading Arabs took their direction ^^^^' at first from the sun's rising, and afterwards followed the sun's path, continuing to do so for some time — our course thus making quite a curve. Later the beaten path became oiu* guide, and was followed mitil we reached the Derb Sultan, or Imperial road, which led from Palmyra to the summer palace of Zenobiii's Zcuobia, OH tlic bauks of the Euphrates. Here the pabTe!^ hue of couutry became less desert: to the west we had the distant and lofty chain of Palmyra, and to the east an apparently boundless plain, broken only by three rather remarkable conical hills, which stood out on the distant eastern horizon. Our Arabs, no longer ^p^Ij anticipating danger, were in liigh spirits, and full of pranks. good-humoured tricks and fun with each other — firing a pistol, to fi'ighten some pretended fugitive, being one of their favourite devices. Li a desert journey the veriest trifles acquire some importance, and it was not, there- fore, without interest that we at one time watched some gulls, apparently winging their flight towards the Me- diterranean, and at others saw some crows, numerous larks, and once a solitary gazelle. Seven HiUs Early in the afternoon, the beaten path brought us nud^iy. to thc Scvcu Ilills, wliicli are chiefly remarkable as being midway to Bagdad, and consequently told us that
i
A SICK CAMEL KILLED AND BATSV. 59
more thau half our journey across Arabia was already chap.
IV
completed. Having attended to our supply of water, - — r-' — -
we continued our journey. The mountains towards the west were still tolerably distinct, but the horizon alone bounded our view towards the east Litour and other DMert healthy shrubs were plentiful, mixed with a fair propor- â– *^*^' tion of grass, which was saturated by a recent fall of rain. This appearance of moisture was most cheering to the Arabsi and their spirits led them to indulge in all kinds o( pranks, in some of which the merchant took a part, until our halt put a stop to their hilarity.
But here a fresh incident arose, to relieve the monotony of the journey. ' One of the camels being considered hopelessly ill, the Arabs — in great delight a sick at the prospect of a feast — ^proceeded to kill and cut killed and him up for the evening meal. Their preparations for die night are invariably very sunple. They place a double row of bales of merchandise, in the form of a crescent, on the side of their encampment towards the wind, and squatting round a bright fire of brushwood and camel's-dung, prepare their evening meal of thin cakes of bread (freshly baked in the ashes), dates, «aid camel's-milk, concluding with a small cup of coffee. This was their daily fare ; but on the present occasion, there was the very acceptable addition of the fieshly-killed broiled flesh of the sick camel.
Next day we crossed a track so perfectly level that Dec. 24. we might for some time have fancied ourselves at sea ; day. in the west alone distant highlands could be faintly discerned. As we advanced, we sighted some chalk chaikhiiis
. , . , , on the
hills, and learnt, to our great satistjictioii, that they Euphratea. were on the left bunk of the Euphrates. We crossed
60 NARRATIVB OF THE EUPHRATES EXFEDITIOK.
CHAP, the rocky bed of a river, which, though nearly dry, ^- — ^ — ' aflTorded us a partial supply of water.
Our people had latterly ceased to think of danger, and were therefore but ill-prepared for hostilities, when
Expect«i tlie merchant came riding hastily back to Abdallah, to tell him that enemies were to be apprehended. Every individual at once seized his matchlock, and prepared to meet the foe. Following this example, I alighted from my camel gun-in-hand, and joined the party, when I learnt that all this commotion had been caused by the appearance of two Arabs. No more were seen, and things gradually subsided into their usual course,
Fires dis- and wc cucampcd at night at a Uttle distance off
DA 1180(1
with at the direct line, and took the precaution of doing
"'^ ^ without light or fire.
We were on the move before sunrise the next morning, and as a matter of prudence, as well as on account of Abdallah's great anxiety, we took a more westerly direction, so as to come upon the river at a point higher up than had been originally intended. Towards midday, we passed along a chain of hills, and advancing, with the great river occasionally in sight,
Dec. 26, we eventually encamped about an hour s journey
day. short of its banks. We had all but attained the
principal object of our journey, and I urged an im- mediate advance; but was met, as usual, by difficulties and allegations of danger from Abdallali, and my only resource was patience under this disappointment, and a night spent in watching for the daylight. It came at last, and with it our caravan was early on the move. For a time we met low sandy hills, covered with a peculiar shrub resembling fennel ; we next crossed
FIBST SIGHT OF THE GREAT RIVEB. 61
stony beds of streams which were then dry, and chap. reached the right bank of the Euphrates about ten » — r^ — ^ o'clock, passing close to a flat-topped hill surmounted Euphrates by the tower of El-Kaim. Shortly afterwards we saw " '^^^ the great river itself, spreading out its waters at El- Werdi,* a spot afterwards so memorable to the Ex- pedition.
We turned to the east, and followed the caravan Halt near route from bend to bend of the river until sunset, pteiti". when we pitched our tents at the foot of some low hills overhanging its right bank. During supper my attention was attracted by a singularly dull creaking sound, accompanied by that of falling water, mingled with the occasional wild roaring of Uons from a different quarter. Anxious to ascertain the cause of these noises, I tried to persuade Abdallah to accompany me to the river, which — ^after much hesitation, on ac- count of the hons — he consented to do. We walked ^ft^k to through copse-wood for about a mile, and then dis- ^*^J^.® covered — not a cataract, nor even a waterfall — ^but ''^®^^- some machinery by which water is raised for purposes of irrigation, in the simplest manner possible, the river- water itself being so turned to account as to give the requisite power. This is managed by means of a light and graceftil aqueduct, resting on pointed arches, having at its extremity a waterwheel of some 50 feet in diameter, to which the current gives a rotatory motion, as well as the necessary power, by means of a simple contrivance, which raises the water to supply the aqueduct.
* At this place the two steamers eDCOuntered a fearful hurricane, which carried one of them to the bottom ; and here also the Emperor Julian loet 1,100 yessels belonging to his great expedition to Babylonia.
64 KARRATIYE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION".
CHAP, through the deserts of Egypt and Nubia, it was de-
IV
' — r-l — cidedly agreeable. The deep sand met with in those parts of Africa is replaced, in Arabian travelling, by a level track, over either a hard pebbly surface, or scanty grass, intermixed with various desert shrubs — such as the *odoor' (Salsola ^aZz), a low-growing yellow plant, without either thorns or leaves, from which soap is made ; the ' htour,' a thorny plant, which only reaches and its the height of 8 or 10 inches ; also the * rot^e-gemeV P ^^8- Qj. well-known camel-thorn. These, and a few others, met with more rarely during our journey, constitute the flora of the Ijittle Desert. Brief as this description lias been, it will, I trust, ^ve the reader some idea of desert travelling, which must necessarily be of a very monotonous character. PurpoBo Mine was now to be exchanged for a very different
i^ng by*^^ mode of locomotion. My object in coming to Anna was to secure the means of floating down and sur- veying the Kiver Euphrates — the great object which, during all my previous journeyings, I had kept steadily in view.
My position, however, was not free from anxiety. I had still to ascertain, not only whether I could procure the means of descending the river, but whether the Euphrates were navigable from Anna to the sea. It was therefore with mingled feelings of uncertainty and of hope that I proceeded to the Sheikli's house, in order to obtain his assistance in the first place ; and there, sur- rounded by a crowd of Arabs, who flocked to see the stranger, I remained until late in the evening, when the Sheikh came home.
Having explained that the state of my health ren-
water.
RECEPTION BT THE SHEIKH OF ANNA. 65
dered it impossible for me to continue my journey with chap. the caravan, I told him that I was anxious to exchange — r-^—
the rough paces of the camel for the easier conveyance d^enr^ of a boat ; and I then produced the Sultan's firman, and requested him to find me the means of proceeding by water to Felujah, whence I could cross to Bagdad.
The Sheikh, it appeared, had been in that city more than once, and had seen H. B. M.'s Kesident — which fact gave weight to the firman, and lessened my diffi- culties. It was at once arranged that a messenger Me6senger should be sent to Bagdad with my letter, the chief Bagdiwi. object of which was to make known to the Eesident that I had been unable to communicate with the sup- posed captives at Palmyra, one of whom was surmised to be Major Taylor's brother. An Arab soon ap- peared, provided with a short stick with a round knob at one end, as his means of defence, and a bag of dates for sustenance ; and being, as is usual with the Arabs, paid for the journey in advance, he took his departure.
The Sheikh informed me that my object of proceed- ing by water might be accomplished either in a country boat, or by means of a raft supported on inflated skins. It struck me that the latter would be much better suited to my purpose than a clumsy unmanageable boat, and the Sheikh at once agreed to have one prepared. The delay, thus unavoidably incurred, gave me time to ex- plore the town of Anna, as well as the many interesting sites in its vicinity, among which that of Anna Tilbus Anna possesses great interest in connection with the Emperor Trajan's descent of the Euphrates. But, instead of
F
66 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
bringing me the boat, which I expected, to enable me to descend to that island — a distance of 20 miles — an Arab arrived, provided with four inflated skins, and
Aprimi- Bome wiUow-twigs to connect them together; and I found that I was expected to sit across this little raft, with my legs in the water, leaving the current to trans- port me to the place I wished to visit. This very primitive mode of navigation was not quite in accord- ance with my ideas, and I thought it as well to postpone my visit to Anna Tilbus, especially as the environs of Anna seemed to offer greater objects of interest than the island.
Descrip- The towH of Anna itself stmggles for a distance of
Anna. nearly four miles along the right bank of the river, and is almost hidden in groves of date, fig, and pom^ranate trees. It contains about 500 clay houses, all built in a line along the bank of the stream, which, in this part of its course, washes two elevated ranges of hills ; and in making its way through them, it has formed a string rf seven prettily- wooded and cultivated islands, on which were five corn-mills, with their aqueducts, in good repair. Many remains of ancient buildings also exist on these islands : on one of them are the ruins of the Palace of the Persian Emperor Ardeshir, on another those of an extensive castle, on a third the remains of a bridge — which at one time crossed the river — and on a fourth (the largest of the chain) there is a lofty and graceful Persian minareh. On the left bank, and below the
Ruins modem town of Anna, are the ruins of ancient Anatho, which however, with the exception of part of a castle, and some towers, are scarcely distinguishable. Sdll, although no longer a royal city, the modem Anna is
PBEPARATIOX OP THE BAFT. 67
quite worthy of attention, not only on account of its chap.
IV
commanding the principal passage between Aleppo and ^ — r-^-^ Bagdad, but also from its picturesque situation and numerous population.
With me, however, the place itself was secondary to the preparation of my raft. This, at times, seemed to l)e a matter of promise never to be realised, and I began to apprehend some intention of putting an end to my proposed descent ; and the particular enquiries, as to my object, my occupation, &c., made by the Shammar Arabs, when they crossed the river, were not calculated to lessen my uneasiness. It was, there- The mft fore, with feelings of tlie keenest satisfaction, that I miJd^ found the raft put in motion, on January 2, 1831, when mcnced. I commenced my descending voyage.
If the reader should be disposed to take the trouble of referring to a previous volume of this work,* he vnW find some account of the various kinds of rafts which have been, and still are, in use in Mesopotamia, whilst the annexed plate represents that on which I now embarked.f Its dimensions were as follows : — Its base was a rectangular platform of 14^ feet long by Deecnp- 1 3 i feet wide, with a sort of well, or inlet, left open raft. at the after-extremity of the structure, which was rendered substantial by successive layei's of branches, CTossed at right-angles to each other, till they were about 18 inches or 2 feet thick, which gave it suffi- cient stability. Bough planks were laid above the interlaced branches, to support a platform, on which
• VoL ii. pp. e34H636 of ' Expedition to the Euphrates.' t Ihid. Vol. ii. Plate V.
F 2
68 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX-
CHAP, a kind of fireplace was fitted up within an enclosure ' — ^ — ' of wet day (for security from fire) ; and 40 inflated sheepskins were placed beneath the raft, to give it the requisite buoyancy when floated. And now all was ready for the commencement of my descending voyage.
69
CHAlTEfl V.
DESCENT OF THE RIYER EUPHRATES ON A RAFT AND BT BOAT, AND CROSSING THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSHIRE.
The new year and the descending survey were to have chap. commenced together ; but it was only on the following - 7' - day that our preparations were completed, and the ?*f?f^ demands of the Sheikh satisfied. He had become so d««»nt* much inclined to take care of hhnself towards the last, that, in addition to the money-payments agreed upon, my white cloak, and some other parts of my attire, had to be made over to liim. However, he was pretty well satisfied at last ; and some cooking utensils, my tent as an awning, and charcoal, as well as a supply of provisions, having been placed on the raft, this somewhat remarkable voyage was commenced by quitting Anna, with the expectation of being able, in case of urgent necessity, to dispense with additional supplies.
An Arab, named Getgood, had been selected by the Oetgood Sheikh, for his fidelity, as well as for his knowledge of the * ^ ^^' river, to accompany me. Two other Arabs were to guide the raft, by keeping it in midstream, each having for this purpose a rude oar, with a kind of fan or blade at the extremity, made of the wood of the date-tree. These individuals sat on each side of the well, or opening in the after-part of the raft, with their feet in the water, so as to be quite ready to blow out any of the skinj> from which
70 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPllBATBS EXPEDITION.
CHAP, the air might have escaped. Halil(the dragoman) and >- — w- — his slave-boy completed our party. A pocket-compaflB The sur- gavc the bcHi ings of the principal points, and a rough coutri- sketch was to be made as we followed the stream. wundii^. But as any attempt to sound would have been sure to arouse suspicion, which might have proved fatal to sac- cess, the very im[)ortant object of the depth of the river was obtiiined, approximately, by letting down a 10-fcet pole tlirough the well of the raft, which, being forced upwards in case of touching the bottom, Gt meeting any obstruction, gave me the means of ascer- taining the depth of water, without attracting the observation that must have resulted fix)m any attempt to make regular soimdings.
Such were the simple arrangements by which I i\scertained the ordinary deptli, as well as the general capabilities of the river, as the raft descended the stream ; and even now, after the lapse of 37 years, the first splash of its date-tree oars is as freshly recollected, as though it had only been yesterday that I was carried along over the imruffled surface of the great river, through the islands of Anna, and the adjoining remains iMotur- of Anatho. The picturesque scenery of the river did IlS^'near uot, howcvcr, terminate on leaving the precincts of Anna : watermills and aqueducts were passed, at short intervals, as we floated between its well-wooded banks, and along islands of various dimensions, until the cur- rent, now strong and deep, carried us past the still perfect walls of ancient Tilbus. We had scarcely passed between the island on which it stands, and the opposite excavations on the left bank — no doubt ancient tix)glodytc dwellings — when Halil's acceptable pilau,
Aniui.
REMARKABLE BEND OF THE RIVER. 71
cooked in our little day fireplace, made its appearance ; chap. and as it was now almost dark, and I did not wish to ^ — ^ — '
lose any part of the river, the raft was brought up for
the night, as a matter of prudence, at the uninhabited GobMn
island of Gobain.
We were on the move rather before daybreak, and, J»n. 3. almost as soon as there was sufficient light, we found ourselves within eight yards of a noble lion, who was a lioo pacing leisurely along the edge of the river. My first impulse was to seize my gun, which was rather heavily loaded with pistol-balls ; my next was to gaze at the royal animal, as he pursued his way quietly along the bank, and as I did so my destructive inclination passed away ; I uncocked my gun, and laid it down.
The liver was as deep and wide as we had found it on the previous day. It continued to flow to the south- east for a distance of seven miles, having numerous clay- built villages, generally with aqueducts attached to them, on its banks. Beyond this the stream takes a sweep to the south-west, and, after running nearly five miles Great b«iid in this direction, it makes the most remarkable bend at Ha"^^' (or rather convolution) that occurs throughout its entire ^^ course. It literally forms quite a horseshoe, the farther heel or extremity of which terminates opposite the island of Beni- Annan. In distance as the crow flies, this spot is less than two miles from the commencement of this sweep at Hawajji-el-Khawaslik, from whence, according to the Arabs, the call to ' come and eat ' can be heard at the opposite extremity of this very remarkable bend.
Beyond Hawajji-el-Khawaslik the river flows be- tween high hills clothed widi brushwood to the very
72 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, edge of the water. As we came close upon these
^ — -r^ — ' hills, they looked as if they must effectually bar all farther progress ; and as we were speculating as to where the opening could possibly be which would take
Attack on US out of this sccming cul-de-sac^ a puff of smoke was seen on the right bank, and two balls struck the water at the same instant — one beyond, and the other rather short of the raft. Halil awoke at this moment from his siesta, exclaiming, ' C'est un coup de fusil qu'on tire sur nous ! ' The brushwood effectually screened the people who were making this attack, and we
Defensive immediately arranged our sacks and baggage, so as to
prepara- ^^^ ^^ somc cover also. Another shot followed, (» which Halil seized my gun, and fired its charge into the brushwood where the smoke had appeared ; and the discharge, which was buck-shot, similar to that fired on our troops from the walls of Badajoz, pro- duced a decided effect, cutting away the branches, and no doubt dislodging the Arabs who were making this attack. Being ignorant, however, as to whether this were the case or not, we continued our onward course, rather westward of north, as far as the island of
Beni- Beni-Annan,where we brought up the raft for the night.
Annan. Daylight found us again floating down tlie stream,
our course nearly south-west, through scenery very similar to that of the previous day : islands, villages and aqueducts, and banks covered with wood, were passed in succession ; and although, perhaps, implying sameness in description, there was, in reality, much quiet life and variety and beauty in this part of our voyage. During the morning we stopped for a short time at Hadisa, just as the people were swimming two
FIRST COMMUNICATION WITH THE PJBOPLE. 73
oxen across the river. This island-town contained, chap. apparently, about 300 houses, built on high ground, ^ — ^ '
surrounded by a defensible wall washed by the river. ^'^^ Some arches of a bridge remain, which once com- municated with the mainland, to the right of which, at a httle distance from the water, are two conspicuous saints' tombs.
Here we had our first communication with the people along the river, an important and interesting moment for us all. The raft having been made secure, I found my way to the Sheikh's house, produced the Sultan's firman, and asked for break&st. Meat and BreaUSMt milk were produced at once, and the firman respectfully sheikh. placed on the Sheikh's head, as well as on those of his numerous visitors who had flocked to see the Frank. Avowed duty to the Sultan and professions of obedience were plentiful ; but when I came to ask, as a practical proof of the Sheikh's loyalty, that one of his Arabs might accompany me, he made endless difficulties ; and I had to resist the exactions attempted to be made for the benefit of the Shammar tribe, and to resume our descent, taking one of his tribe with us — most un- willingly on his part — as a nominal protection against his people.
After quitting Hadisa, we passed some other smaller Leave islands. The banks of the river at this part were generally bare of wood, but still pretty, owing to the numerous graceful aqueducts, which we passed on both sides. A few miles farther we floated over the rocks of Hafagia — then passed Hajji Island, and later in the afternoon we got over the formidable rocks called Fat-hat-Huddhr-Elias ; and keeping clear
74 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOK.
CHAP, of the whirlpool which they cause, we floated quicUy
— ^ — ' onwards until the evening, when the raft almost
touched the walls of El-Oos as we passed by it. El-
isiand of Oos is an island- town of some importance, with two
scenery*" mosqucs, somc flourmiUs, and about 250 houses.
Beyond El-Oos steep sandhills border the river on
either bank ; but more picturesque scenery follows
immediately afterwards, diversified at intervals with
the usual watermills, and some of these had a tower
attached to them for the purpose of defence.
Progress As the Stream did our work almost entirely, the two
o ourra . i^qj^i-jq^q \^^^ \i\S}iQ trouble, bcyoud an occasional use
of their date-tree oars, to keep our craft midstream ; and thus we proceeded, lazily and pleasantly, as long as there was sufficient light to take the bearings. When this failed we brought up, under the right bank, near
Ribiah the Castle of Eiblah. Here the boatmen slept on shore, "" ^' whilst the rest of our party remained on the raft ; and as the disposition of the people did not seem to be too favourable, we quietly unmoored, and resumed our way before daylight. Beyond Dowalie Castle and its watermill, we came upon a more open country. The hills receded from the banks, on which were villages at intervals, and the usual aqueducts ; and a little lower down-stream, we passed between Jeriat Haouran on tlie left, and Wadi Haouran on the right bank, near which the scenery becomes extremely attractive, especially on
Town and approaching Jibba. We found this place to be
island of
Jibba. another walled island-town, with some 500 houses en- sconced in a date-grove, which extends for more than a mile along the centre of the river, which is here shut in by high ranges of hills, with two saints' tombs on
NEWS OF THE ANIZA ARABS. 75
their summit. The whole effect is picturesque in the chap. extreme ; indeed, for some distance below Jibba, the ^ — r^ — '
scenery continues to be exceedingly bold and romantic.
This afternoon the usual monotony of our voyage was broken by the appearance of a very fine wolf, which Woif jmssed close by the raft as he swam from the left to acroM the right bank of the river, which is here a quarter of a mile broad. On landing, he shook himself hke a dog, and scampered off as joyfully as if he had known that a deadly aim had been taken at him, and the gun all but discharged, as he scrambled out of the water.
This was quite a day of incidents, for a little lower down we met a large boat, which had come up from Hit to collect timber and brushwood. Her people gave us the unwelcome news that the Aniza Arabs were The Aniza in the neighbourhood, which induced us to bring to almost immediately at the island of Serajia, Next morning we found the Hit boat still employed in com- pleting her cargo, and no fresh intelligence of the Arabs having come in, Getgood went stealthily forward to reconnoitre. He ascertained, satisfactorily, that the Aniza had moved away, and we resumed our descent at once.
The depth of the river was very satisfactorily ob- P«>p' tained by means of my 10-feet rod, which worked well ; descent. and our rate of progress gave me sufficient time not only to take the necessary bearings, but also to make a rough pencil-sketch of the banks, wliich continued to be highly picturesque. Throughout the whole distance froni Anna to Hit (131 miles), we passed through a con- stant succession of watermills and aqueducts, villages and hamlets, which succeed each other at almost evcrv
ess
70 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, fresh sweep of the river; now showmg themselves ^— T^ — ' between the low hills which skirt the river's banks,
now enhvening the wooded islands which frequently divide its stream — which, in this part of its course, has
Width and an average width of 350 yards, a depth of 11 feet,
the river, ^nd a Current of three knots per hour in the season of floods. I counted fourteen islands during this part of our descent, many of which have small towns upon them, often built on some ancient site.
Scenery of ^ ^^"^^ rcspects the sceucry of the Euphrates re-
Enph»te» ^^^^^ ™^ ^f ^^^^ ^^ parts of the Nile, although far exceeding the latter in picturesque effect, which is veiy much due to the often-mentioned aqueducts, and their simple but efficient waterwheels. The last of these, which we passed during this day, was partly concealed by the dense smoke arising from the boiling bitumen of
Hit and its the Springs of Hit, at which place we had now arrived.
Bpri^? Our first visit was to the governor. Sheikh Mohammed, whose attire accorded well with the murky atmosphere of the place. Having read the letter which I had brought with me from Anna, he welcomed me warmly,
Sheikh of and his ' Bismillah I ' was followed by a supper of rice, after which we entered upon the question of the pro- secution of our voyage. Sheikh Mohammed was placed at Hit in charge of the bitumen and other productions of the place, and he had therefore ample means of giving us all requisite furtherance.
The message brought from Anna by the Arab Get- good disposed him favourably towards us, and the pro- duction of the Sultan's firman completed the business. Sheikh Mohammed at once provided us with accom- modation, and expressed his readiness to be useful to
Hit.
PRIMITIVE METHOD OP BOATBUILDING. 77
US in any way. Now as the raft, although most chap, suitable in other respects, had consumed a good deal of >^ — ' time in descending the 131 miles from Anna, I was anxious to replace it by a more speedy mode of con- veyance, and the Sheikh imdertook to find what I wanted without any difficulty. Boatbuilding is an everyday occupation at Hit, and is quite as simple as it was in the time when Noah made ' an ark of gopher- wood,' and pitched it * within and without with pitch.' *
The self-taught shipwrights of Hit have neither Method of docks, nor basins, nor even slips, to faciUtate their ^J^i^gat labour ; yet they can construct a serviceable boat in a ^*^- short time, with no other tools than an axe and a saw, with a ladle for pouring out the melted pitch, and a roUer for smoothing it. The first process in this primitive mode of shipbuilding, is to choose a level spot of ground, near the water, on which the car- penter traces the figure of the bottom of the projected boat — ^not, it is true, with mathematical accuracy, but still a line is nsed, and a certain system followed. In the space thus marked out, a number of rough branches are laid in parallel Unes, and others inter laced across them. A kind of basket-work, of reeds and straw, is then plaited through them, to fill up the interstices ; and some stronger branches, laid across at intervals of eight or ten inches, give the requisite stability to the bottom. The sides are then built up, which is done by driving upright posts of the requisite height through the edge of the platform, about a foot apart; these are filled in, in the same way as the bottom, and the whole is consolidated by placing strong branches,
* Genesis ti. 14.
78 XAERATIVB OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, or stems of small trees, as tie-beams, at short intervals
V.
from gunwale to gunwale. The necessary stability
being thus obtained, the outside of the boat is coated with hot bitumen, which is melted over a fire made on the ground close at hand, and reduced to proper consistency by an admixture of sand and eartli.
This bituminous cement is spread over the frame- work of the boat, both within and without, by means of a wooden roller, which produces quite a smooth surface, and soon becomes perfectly hard, impervious to water, and well-suited for river-navigation. Some of these boats are not unlike a coffin, the broadest end representing the bow; but others are of a neater build ; the reader will find them described in the second volume of the author's previous work on the Euphrates Expedition.* When laden, these boats draw 22 inches, but only 6 inches when empty.
The bitumen found near Hit appears to be still as
inexhaustible as it was in the time of Herodotus. It
exists in several places in the vicinity of the town.
Sulphur is abundant also, and at some spots in this
locahty, naphtha is plentiful, and makes its way to the
surface through saline tepid water, which has the appear-
Curative ^^^^ ^^ boiUng soapsuds. It has even a more foetid and
Se?prinM disagreeable taste than the Harrowgate watet^, and ap-
^ ^*^ parently stronger medicinal properties. The natives say
that these springs cure every kind of human malady.
Hit contains a minareh, rising conspicuously above the mosque, and about 1,500 flat-roofed small-sized houses, built round an elevated hill. The place has a prosperous aspect. In addition to the sources of trade
* ' Expedition to the Rivers Euphrates and Tigris,* voL ii. p. 642.
A BOAT SUBSTITUTED FOR THB RAFT. 79
mentioned above, there is abundance of excellent lime- chap.
stone in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. ' r^— -
The inhabitants find ample occupation, not only in boatbuilding, but also in the manufacture of earthen vessels of various kinds — such as those required for the waterwheels, and a kind of crock, which is placed on the roof of almost every house to hold a supply of water.
My raft was now replaced by one of the boats of Ka^ ^
plftcod by
Hit, and we left this town, accompanied by a man from a boat. Sheikh Mohammed, whose bxisiness was to give infor- mation about us to any curious enquirers whom we might meet. Our descent was resumed on January 9, and was carried on as before, but rather more speedily than with the raft. Still keeping midstream, with the measuring-rod let down, the bearings and features of the country were carefully noted. The scenery immediately below Hit presented no variety from that above the town, and we were carried along without any exertion being needed on our parts. The weather had hitherto been most favourable,' but during the afternoon of our departure from Hit a sudden change took place, and a violent storm drove us to a violent
storm.
seek shelter in a cavern, which we most opportunely met with on the left bank, and in which we remained all night. The wind had abated the next morning, and we were able to resume our course.
Dimng this day the river-scenery became less attrac- Mode of tive, chiefly owing to the substitution of large water- skins, worked by bullocks, in the place of the more graceful waterwheek and their attendant aqueducts. This simple contrivance for purposes of irrigation is, however, very eflScient. The bullocks work the skins
80 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXI'EDITION.
CHAP, up and down to the river by means of an inclined plane, * — ^-^ t6 give them additional power, and send a supply of
water into the fields through a channel, into which the skins empty themselves. These primitive macliines were very numerous on both sides of the river, and were all in full work, which made it evident that our boat was passing tlirough a populous country. We reached the tent-village of Hemateen before dark, and remained there for the night.
Sheikh of The foUowing morning we landed, by invitation, to
denes. breakfast with Ibrahim El-Abt, sheikh of the consider- able tribe of the Bordene. He received the dragoman and myself in his spacious tent, where an ample meal was immediately served; and where I, for the first time, met with a particular dish, a mixture of butler
An Arab and houcy, wliich, from the familiar mention of it by the Prophet, must have been ordinary fare in the East in Isaiah's day,* as it is now, for I frequently met with it on subsequent occasions.
On taking leave of our host, I discovered that his marked civility was not quite disinterested; for he appealed urgently to me, to endeavour to move the Pacha of Bagdad to release his son, who had been detained in that city, as security for the payment of some 30,000 piastres, due by the tribe on account of revenue.
During the afternoon we passed the considerable town of Kalat Ramadi, which stands conspicuously on the right bank of the river ; fi:om thence we passed
Meflhaid. Meshaid, where the depth of water is little more than six feet, and halted for the night at the camel's ford of
* ' Butter and bonej shall he eat.* (Isaiah vii. 16.)
ABAB COSTUMES. 81
Abii Serai, where the river is equally shallow. We chap.
V.
went onwards, through an interesting and populous ^ country, the next day. Bullock-rollers followed each f^ ^^ other in quick succession, raising huge water-skins to irrigate and fertilise the land ; and villages appeared at very short intervals — some consisting of congregations of tents, others of clay-built dwellings, with large cylindrical wicker-baskets to hold grain on each of their flat roofs. The people were everywhere at work, preparing their crops, and the whole country presented a most animated scene. A full sliare of the field-labour seemed to be done by the women, whose costume is a loose open dress of coarse blue cotton, and they wear, almost without exception, a gold ornament passed through the left cartilage of the nose. The men wear sandals, a loose-flowing cloak, and the usual bright-coloured handkerchief over their heads. It was altogether a cheerful and lovely scene, as we threaded oiu* way through the pretty little islands, enjoying a temperature much like that of our English summer.
By sunset we were in sight of the bridge of Felujah, and had thus accomphshed 87 miles of the descent below Hit, without any untoward occurrence. As we entered a comparatively level country, the windings of the river had become shorter and more frequent. Its The Rirer average width had decreased to about 250 yards, with above^ an ordinary depth of about 20 feet, and a current of ^^^ * scarcely 2^ knots per hour during the flood-season, at which time the stream forms thirteen islands, which are chiefly devoid of wood. As we approached Fehijab, the river's banks presented a very animated appearance, owing to the munerous and busy popidation — otherwise
82 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, the scenery had latterly become far tamer and less
V.
interesting than during the earlier part of our voyage.
Reception At Fclujah we were hospitably received by the governor, with whose help my future plans were soon arranged.
I had now completed the first half of the survey, and considered it desirable that the second portion should be postponed until my return from Bagdad. The Sultan's firman secured the co-operation of Sheikh Ibrahim, and he promised to take charge of my boat during my absence. My principal reasons for deciding on this visit to Bagdad were two : my anxiety to make known to Major Taylor what had been reported about the supposed traveller at Palmyra ; and my wish to have the means of lajing down that part of the Euphrates which had just been surveyed, and to send home the map of this portion of the river before
Start for proceeding to the completion of my task. I therefore left Felujah early the next morning, with a small cara- van, which was bound for the City of the Khaliphs.
The ride was a most interesting one. I passed a little to the eastward of Sifara, the antediluvian Sippara, and proceeded onwards in a line almost pai*allel to the
Tiie isa SaklAwiyah Canal ; * thence I crossed a plain, with but little cultivation, inhabited by the gazelle, the ' hoop- barra' (one of the bustard family), and numerous coveys of the desert partridge. Soon after leaving Felujah in the morning, we had passed Suidia or Kush, and in the afternoon we halted at Akar-Kuf — which grand monument of former days had been our landmark for several hours.
• The Isa of Abulfeda, which, from a spot below Bagdad, has a tortu- ous course of 4^ miles across Mesopotamia, terminating near Felujah.
Bagdad.
Canal.
AKAR-KUF. 83
This was the Akar^ Nunriid of the Arabs, and the chap. site of the third primeval city of the Bible ; * and even / ,. at the risk of being delayed beyond sunset, when the gates of Bagdad are always closed, we determined to examine these interesting remains. The conspicuous object which we had been watching for so many hours, I now found to have been a pyramid, built of sun- dried bricks, on which soft and friable materials Time had made such ravages as to have partly defaced its original form. It seems to have been constructed of layers of these bricks, placed alternately upon one another at right-angles, until a tliickness of 2 feet 11^ inclies had been attained. Over each portion so built, a layer of reeds seems to have been carried quite through the structure, each layer having a depth of from 1| to 2 inches. Over this another layer of bricks was placed — then another of reeds — and so on, section by section, until the desired height was attained.
The existing remains of Akar-Kuf measure 110 feet from east to west, and 128 feet from north to south; and it has still an elevation of 128 feet above the ground, although its top has long since crumbled away, and has now the appearance represented in one of the plates in the earlier volumes of this work.f About midway between the ground and the summit there is an entrance-door, probably the portal of the tomb, which, according to Arab tradition, is that of Nimriid himself. Unfortimately, I had no means of Examina- getting up to this height, and as time also failed, we Akar-Kuf. hastened on towards Bagdad, where, however, we did
• Genesis x. 8, 0.
t * Expedition to Euphrates,^ Plate VIII. vol. i. p. 119.
84 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, not arrive until after sunset. The gates were therefore ^ — r^ — ' closed, and we had to pass the night outside the city. Arrival at My letter, forwarded from Anna, had prepared *^^^* Major Taylor for my arrival, and notliing could exceed the kindness with which I was received, nor the interest evinced at the Eesidency in my project of communication with India vid the Euphrates. I also learnt that, in consequence of instructions received from India, a survey of the Lower Tigris had been com- menced by Lieutenant Ormsby, of the Indian Na\'y, with Mr. Elliott as his assistant, under the superintendence of the Resident at Bagdad — who had, in fact, already taken up this question, and thus a strong bond of sympathy existed between us.
Major Taylor strongly encouraged my project of laying down a map of the river as far as Felujah, before proceeding with my survey, and placed at my disposal, with the utmost kindness, all the ad- vantages that the hospitality of the Eesidency could afford ; and my long mornings were henceforth de- voted to the task of mapping the river on the scale of Appear- ^^^^ inchcs to a mile, until the appearance of the the pioLue P^^g^*^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^Y interrupted my work.
At first there were only isolated cases, and all possible precautions were taken against it, but in- effectually : the terrible scourge spread not only in the city, but within the gates of the Eesidency itself; my servant fell a victim to it, among others, and it became a cause of saiive qui pent on all sides.
Major Taylor and his family decided on dropping down the Tigris to Basrah, whilst I, bent on continuing the survey of the Euphrates, started on foot for
getgood's departure. 85
Felujah, having with the greatest difficulty succeeded in chap. getting one or two donkeys to carry my baggage. Whilst - — ^ — ^ crossing the desert I encountered a severe storm, and Boatde-
° . stroyedat
learnt, to my great disappointment, on reaching Felujah, Feiiyah. that my boat had been destroyed by it. This was no common misfortune, under existing circumstances ; but in course of three or foiu* days, the governor managed to prociu*e a boat, similar to that which I had brought from Hit, for me ; and the intervening time was most agreeably spent in exploring Sifara, revisiting Akar-Kuf, and in hunting the gazelle.
On April 10, aU was ready for my departure from Departnid Felujah, when, at the last moment, Getgood came to Feiiyah. say that he must return to his family — ' the world,' as he quaintly expressed it, * being topsy-turvy.' He had served me most faithfully during more than three months, and latterly he had been doubly useful, in furnishing me with the names of places, and other details for the maps. He was a serious loss to me.
Beyond Felujah, the Euphrates is broad and deep. Descent
of nTOF
and strikingly resembles the Nile in the flood- recom- season, with the exception that the banks of the former possess much more life and animation than those of the great river of Egypt, on account of the numbers of Arabs who frequent them with their flocks at this season, for the benefit of pasturage and water. Their proximity was, however, a source of considerable uneasiness to my boatmen, and I was not myself free from uncomfortable feelings, when I remembered my isolated position. I felt, however, that my only course was to proceed fearlessly, and take my chance.
xnenced.
86 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Soon after dark, some armed men of the Zoba
V.
- — ^ — ' tribilJ called to us to come to the bank ; but trustinj;
to the swiftness of the current, and the difficidty of taking aim in the dark, we did not seem to hear, and were soon out of reach of their matchlocks. Soon afterwards we were again hailed from the bank, but this time for the friendly purpose of giving and re- ceiving news ; and we learnt that the Shammar had just seized a boat, and were crossing the river a httle ahead of us. We at once brought up until the morning, when, keeping our boat midstream, we resumed our voyage, and saw the fires and heard the voices of the Shammar, but were soon carried out of reach of annoyance from them.
We passed in succession the Mounds of Mohammed, which rise to some height above the left bank of the river, and Kaalat-el-Eozzia on the right ; a little far- ther on the island of Iskenderiah, and the Mound of Abu-Tauk on the left hand, and the ruins of El-Kamah Musseyib. OH the light ; and we finally brought up at Musseyib, a town containing some 500 clay-built houses. It is situated on the left bank, and has a floating bridge with a moveable centre, to give a passage for boats. This is the first place of any importance below the Castle of Felujah, from whence it is distant 74 miles by water. The river at this place has an average width of 180 yards, and a depth of at least 15 feet. The cun-ent does not exceed 2^ knots an hour during the flood-season, when six small islands are formed in this part of its course. With the exception of the mounds, which rise above its banks at Maidain, Kaalat-el-Rozzia, at Abu-Tauk, and again behind
ARRIVAL AT HILLAH. 87
Musseyib, its course is through a flat but populous chap. country, the people dwelling partially in tents, but ^ — ^ — * more frequently inhabiting clay-built houses.
There was some deby in getting the bridge opened for us, and a good deal of annoyance afterwards from two or three men, who forced themselves into our boat, apparently with the intention of taking possession of her, and remained on board imtil we reached the Mounds of Babel. The lights of Hillah were now The
. . . Moundi
visible, but as a good deal of firing was going on in of Babel, and around the town, we thought it prudent to remain where we w^ere for the night. Morning brought a cessation of the desultory warfare which was going on between the Pacha's troops and the people of Ilillah, to which place I now proceeded, and found, Amre at
TT'll 1,
on my arrival. Major Taylor's pretty little schooner ready for my reception. I consequently discharged ray native boat, and made immediate preparations for continuing my descent. Letters to the Arab sheikhs along the river were all-important ; I therefore made my way through the excited populace to the cas- tellated barracks, where I found my friend Martinelli,* who, being one of the Pacha's most confidential officers, had the means of rendering me valuable assistance.
During the imavoidable delay attending the pre- visit paration of these letters, I devoted two days to the Babylon. ruins of Babylon, accompanied by Signor Martinelli, whose local knowledge and practical experience ren- dered him an admirable guide. The most remark-
• Martinelli held an important employment under the Pacha of Baj^ad when I reached that city in 1831.
88 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, able remains of the great primeval city are at a short ^ — r — ' distance inland from the left bank of the river, and
Babylon here three of the four great quarters of Babylon rcmainfl. cau Still be traccd — viz., Amram, the Kasr, and the
Mujellebeh. Four quar- Hcimar is supposed to be the fourth quarter of the city. city, although its distance of six miles from the river
has thrown some doubt on its identification. This por- tion now presents merely a mass of undistinguishable ruuis, with the single exception of a tower, which bears some resemblance to the famous Birs, though on a much smaller scale. We visited the other three quarters in succession, going from south to noith. Amram came first — it consists of an extensive quadrangular mound ; next to this is Jim-Jimma, and more to the north, again, are some considerable and almost circular The Kasr. moimds. Beyoud these we come to the Kasr, or palace, the site of which is marked by numerous fragments of glass, and of ornamented stucco-work. Here also are the massive square buttresses of the Hanging Gardens, which have for centuries resisted the eflects of time, and wiU continue to endure for ages to come — being constructed of the finest yellow bricks, united by a peculiarly durable kind of cement. A single tree of the cedar family still remains, and reminds the traveller, by its loneliness, that * Babylon the Great has fallen ! ' The Ma- To the . wcst of thcsc remains of the celebrated jeUeWh. gardens is the Mujellebeh, once Babel. A very re markable feature in this portion of the ruins is a pro- jecting work placed below the summit of each angle, in the form of three semicircular towers connected
LIONS DE5 AT BABYLON. 89
together, and giving what in modern times would be a chap. flanking defence. Some apertures, leading into de- ^ ^' ^» scending passages, appear here and there on the surface of this mound ; one of which, near its northern face, is The Liom' well known as the ' Lions' Den.' I had gone down this passage for some distance without any idea of danger, when the unmistakable odour of wild beasts made me retrace my steps with all speed, lest I should encounter another lion in closer quarters than the one I had seen from the raft. My examination of this subterranean pas- gage was necessarily imperfect ; but as I had descended leisurely, I had been able to ascertain that its sides were fonned by solid brick walls cemented with bitumen, and that it was arched overhead — thus proving that the know- ledge of the arch in architecture goes back to the very earliest periods.
The Mujellebeh presents an oblong figure, its sides nearly corresponding to the four cardinal points. The Dimen- two longer ones face the north and south, and are each JheM^jei- 200 yards long, and the shorter ones are, respectively, ^® 180 yards to the east, and 130 yards to the west, in length. The summit of the mound is now somewhat irregular in point of elevation. It measures 180 feet at its highest point, and 130 feet at the lowest, where it lias been worn away by time, and the influence of the atmosphere, &c. It is impossible to convey an impres- Babylon sion, by any such description as the above, of the deep ^^te. interest attaching to these ruins, which ' will never more be inhabited, neither shall the Arabian pitch his tent there, but wild beasts and doleful creatures shall dwell there ; ' * and the present desolation of this spot, so
• iMuah xiii. 20—22.
90
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES BXPEDITIOX.
V.
Warfare at Ilillah
CHAP, faithfully pictured by the Prophet, when contrasted witli tlic fertility of the surrounding country, fills the mind with solemn thoughts of the exact fiilfilment of propliecy, which meets us so strikingly in many in- stances in the Eiist, but nowhere so forcibly as when standing amidst the mins of Babylon.
Firing still continued at Hillah, especially at night, and I had moved to the opposite side of the river, in the hope of quiet ; but the Ixdls were continually flying over me, although I found that, when lying down, I was sufficiently below their Une to be secure irom danger. The annoyance, however, w^as considerable, but, my crew being absent, I had no alternative but to remain idong^ide the jetty until morning. Meantime, Signor Martinelli had procured the requisite letters to tlie authorities along the river ; and my few preparations for defence being completed, I prepared to leave Ilillah, my little caiiji passing tlnrough its floating bridge, and piu'suing its way down-stream, which is here both deep and wide, and is bordered by numerous villages, surrounded by gardens, and almost hidden by luxuriant date-groves. Notwithstanding many irri- gating channels, for purposes of cultivation, and the two more considerable diverging canals — that of Sidra Shatt, going to Samania, and the Yusufiyeh, to New I^amlum — the river maintains a depth of fiiUy 12 feet, and an average width of 160 yards, between Hillah Diwanyah. and Diwauyah. This place is 75^ miles below Hillah, and has a floating bridge, and about 1,200 houses. Here we were dehiyed for one day by a \iolent breeze, almost amounting to a storm ; but as soon as it subsided, w^e rasumed our coui^e. the livei* below Diwanyah
Ij<»nve Uillah.
Dcpocnt fr.-»m nil lah.
NEW LAMLUM. 91
barely exceeding 120 yards in width, but still keeping chap. its depth of 12 feet, as far as its bifiu-cation at Old
I
Lamlum ; w^hich was once the Chaldean Lake, the ^^^ ^'^^ waters of which extended, at the height of the season of flood, to the rising ground at El-Kai'ayem.
We were provided with a letter, which we hoped would ensure ci\ility from the redoubted Khezail, a tribe of Sliiahs from the heart of Persia, who inhabit the country adjoining tliis part of the river ; and we therefore ventured to follow its principal branch, having made, by its windings, 27 miles to New Lamlum.
This singular town contains, during the flood -season, Descrip- some 400 huts, neatly constructed entirely of reeds ; but -sew* at the moment of my arrival, the somewhat unusual ^â„¢^^"" height of the river had forced its inhabitants to go elsewhere ; and we found them hastily removing their portable dweUings to more secure sites, and transport- ing their women and childi'en in their canoes, which are constructed of very light materials, and covered with bitumen, and can be paddled along with great speed. A few of these] curious mat-houses, however, still remained, on spots imcovered by the water, and that of the Sheikh, who was absent at the time, was Among them.
Thus fiff, all had been smooth. But we were now in the midst of the followers of Ali, who, in the absence of their Sheikh, soon showed an inclination to make the most of what, they said, ' God had sent.' During the afternoon they made forced exactions, in Annoy-
1 • 1 »"ce« at
The shape of coffee, sugar, clothes, and money — which Lomium. ecame more and more decided, as the day wore on,
92 KARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, until my death even was threatened if their demands "^ — ^ — ' were not satisfied in the morning. Although money Exactions rather than blood was their object, my reduced means Shiahs. made it almost impossible to satisfy them, when the Sheikh's return during the night so far improved my position, that after making a search, and taking the remnants of my money and other things — ^with the exception of a mere trifle of silver and my watch, which escaped owing to its being accidentally beneath a towel — ^he allowed my boat to proceed, one of the tribe being sent with us as far as El-Karayem. rpjjg At this place the two branches of the river, which
Er-Kiu«. separate at Lamlum, reunite, and here also the marshes yem. terminate, and with them the singular tract of country belonging to the Khezail. After the junction of its two arms of water at El-Karayem, the Euphrates re- sumes its former grandeur, and at El-Khudhr, which is 49^ miles from Lamlum, it is already 200 yards wide. In its onward course it forms several islands, and, with some increase to its waters, flows through a fertile country — its banks studded with numerous villages of either mats or tents, embosomed in luxuriant date- groves. Storm at At oue placc (El Arja), we encountered a sudden The canji gust of wiud, wliich placcd the canji in some danger, su merg . gj^^ ^^ lying aloug the bank, and I was alone in the
cabin, when a sudden squall caused her to roll so much that the cabin was filled with water — so instantaneously, that I had only time to gather up my papers and jump on shore, when she went down.
Happily, the storm was of but short duration ; and the boat having been baled out, we continued the
ABRIVAL AT KURXAH. 93
descent to Sheikh-el-Shuyukh, an important town per- chap. manently occupied by the Arabs. It is 64.^ miles from -
EI-Khudhr, and contains about 1,500 houses, built, as Ihujdth." usual, of clay, on the right bank of the river.
Here I had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Stocqueler,* lately editor of the 'Bengal Hurkaru,' from whom I received intelligence of Major Taylor, and heard of the spread of the plague amongst his suite and elsewhere.
Our descending voyage was resumed next morning, and the following afternoon we arrived at Kumah, a Reach considerable town occupying the apex of the triangle between the two great rivers Prat and Diglath. It is admirably situated for commerce, as well as for the defence of the approach to both rivers. It is only 6 24 niiles from Sheikh-el-Shuyukh. The portion of Euphrau* the river just described usually exceeds 260 yards in ^ ^^** width, with a depth of about 18 feet. It is fringed with a rich belt of date-trees,*}' overshado\ving numerous villages.
A little below Kumah, the united waters of the two great rivers, now the Shatt-el-Arab, receive the Kerah or Kerkhah, a considerable stream having its soinrce in the mountains of Ardelan.
After this accession to its waters, the course of the Dat*^ Shatt is south 34** east, as it flows on between date- Se nver- groves and villages to Basrah, carrying a depth of 21 feet, with an average width of 600 yards.
I found a Turkish man-of-war and some English
• Now Mr. J. H. Siddons. As Mr. Stoqueler he published several works on Indian affairs.
t The dates produced along this part of the river are considered the fineivt in the world.
groves on the ri^ bank.
94 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, vessels anchored off Basrah, and my httle boat followed - — ri — ' the course of the winding canal leading to the Eesidencv,
Vessels off where unpleasant news awaited me.
Basrah. '• ^ ^
The anxiety which I had felt respecting the welfiire of Major Taylor's family, ever since I had separated from them at Bagdad, proved to have been well- founded, for I now learnt that there had been cases of plague, and even death, in each of their boats. This terrible scourge had now reached Basrah also, and Spread of seemed to be spreading in all directions, which greatly increased my difficulties.
One very important object had been attained — the Lower Euphrates had been sm:veyed, but the state of the upper part of the river still remained to be ascertained ; and the direct route being no longer avail- able, on account of the plague, I turned my attention to another line, and made my preparations for following the route by Bushire, in order to carry out my original purpose. About to My preparations being made, and a farewell visit paid Bushire. to the Taylor family at Maghil, I left Basrah in a fast- saiUng Persian boat, and following the tidal waters of the Shatt to its estuary, we crossed the upper part of the Persian Gulf, and anchored in Bushire Eoads tow^ards the evening of May 5. Here, however, I was to encounter fresh difficulties. An armed boat came to us at once from the Persian guard-ship,* to forbid our landing, since we had come from a plague-infected locality ; and I thus found myself again placed in a difficult and embarrassing situation.
• The ' Sheikh Ali of Rousfioul.'
95
CHAPTER VI.
ASCENT AND DESCENT OF THE RIVER KARUN — JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA AND ASIA MINOR — EXAMINATION OP THE COUNTRIES BORDER- ING ON THE UPPER EUPHRATES.
The circumstances in which I now found myself placed chap.
scarcely seemed to leave me any re^^ource whatever.
The routes by Bushire and through Arabia were Bifficuitiwi
•^ *-* attending
equally cut off, by the prevalence of plague, and the a journey
!• 1* • • 1 1 1 through
alternative of living in the boat was not by any means Persia. an agreeable one. Happily, however, one other course remained open to me. The Eesidency boat anchored within speaking distance next morning, and brought me a message from Captain Hennell, to the effect that, as Persia was still open in another direction, my home- ward journey might still be accomplished through Shuster, and that he was ready to secure boatmen and make all necessary arrangements for me. I accor- dinfflv recrossed the Persian Gulf to Mohammerah, Proceed to
^ -^ ^ ' Moham-
which was fortunately still free from plague, and merah. therefore available as a starting-point.
Mohammerah contains about 800 houses, built on the right bank of the Kariin, close to its junction with the Frat ; it is a depot for the trade of Southern Persia, and therefore promised to afford the means of furthering my plans. A letter of credit on Shuster was speedily obtained, a swift boat engaged, and with exhilarated
96 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, spirits I commenced my voyage up the Kariiii. Tliree days of alternate sailing and tracking along the bank
Samania. brought US to the Small town of Samania, a distance of 45 miles : thus far the river was deep and free from impediments, with a width of from 250 to 300 yards. But from this point I decided to proceed by land, to avoid the loss of time ine\itable in following the tortu- ous windings of the river, notwithstanding the prc- vaihng great heat, now extreme ; and four well-anned men being engaged, w^e rode across the country to
Ahwa*. Ahwaz, on the Kariin. I carefully examined the rocky impediments to its navigation, and resumed my
Band-i- joumey by land, reaching the ferry across the river . at Band-i-kir about noon next day.
Robbed Here I discovered, to my cost, that my escort had
e^;^, come with an object of their own. Whilst waiting for the ferry-boat under the shade of a carob-tree, they decamped, taking with them my pistols, and part of my clothes, containing my supply of cash. My position on reaching the town, under these cir- cumstances, was not very enviable ; but at length, by leaving some of my wearing-apparel as security for
shuflter. payment, I obtained horses to take me to Sinister the next day. Here I took up my quarters in the Great Khan. My letter of credit enabled me to obtain a sufficient supply to pay for the horses and release my clothes ; but beyond this there vias a great diffi- culty about money, and I had to give up my watch in order to obtain a verj^ small, itnmediate supply of cash. The city, however, was free from plague, and after a few days' delay my financial difficulties were all
CITY OF SHUSTER. 97
relieved by the kindness of the governor,* who also ciiap.
allotted to me a ' surdab,' or underground apartment, - — r-^ — ' where I was enabled to carry on my work of laying Map of the down a map of the river with comparatively little in- down. convenience from the great heat. The town of Shuster, however, did not furnish any kind of table ; but the lid of the map -case, and parts of the tent-poles, put together by a Persian cai'penter, answered the purpose. My work went on uninterruptedly until June 2, when a map of the lower part of the Euphrates (on a scale of two Mnpofthe inches to a mile) was forwarded, through Major Taylor, j£upfirat<»s to our ambassador at Constantinople, Sir Eobert Gordon. **"'' **'^"®'
I had to wait at Shuster for the departure of the caravan for Kermanshah, and was thus enabled, after despatching my map to England, to see something of this interesting town and its environs. It occupies a Descrip- very striking position between the two principal arms shuster. of the £aruD, and the ingenious works which have been constructed to give a supply of water to the city, are of great interest.
At the time of my visit (in 1831) Shuster contained itspopuia. about 15,000 inhabitants, but the subsequent ravages of the plague had scarcely left half this number at the dose of 1840.
Many of the buildings — such as the great mosque BuiWinga. with its four minarehs, and the bazaars — are deserving of special attention. The houses are solidly built, and usually have the important addition of badgirs,' or wind- towers. These are carried well above the houses, and have vertical apertures on each of the four sides, with interior cross-divisions for the purpose of sending down
* Mirza Abdallah Begl^r Beggie.
H
98 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
the cooler air to the subterranean apartment, which
thus obtains a more moderate temperature during the
heat of the day.* The two branches of the Karun
surround the city, as it were. The western arm rises
TheKoh-i- in the Koh-i-zerd, and flows through the western part of
tain and the towu, and ouwards to Band-i-Kir, where it is joined
gap river, by the castem arm, known as the Abi-Gargar. This
latter branch continues its course eastward, passes
between the city and its suburbs, and eventually joins
the western arm at Band-i-Kir.
Several of the ' kanats/ or underground canals, for which Persia is so remarkable, terminate at Shuster, after a very lengthened course. They are frequently carried at a considerable depth beneath the surface, sometimes exceeding 100 feet. Water- The towu also contains several watermills, by means
Shmiter. of which part of the waters of the western branch of the Karun are raised to the higher level of the Abi- Gargar, into which they are carried through channels cut through the rock, after supplying the higher portions of the city.
Besides these extensive waterworks. Shah Shapur constructed the vast reservoir here, known as the Sha- Th« dervan, as well as the great ' bimd ' (or dyke) which
bears his name. The handsome bridge built upon this mound, under which the water passes, was also the work of this monarch, whose comprehensive genius did so much for the improvement of his people.
After exploring Shuster, my object was to visit the interior of Khuzistan, and especially to see something
• I found 10® of difference between the temperature of the ordinary apartments and that of the 'surdab/ or subterranean apartment.
•bimd.'
BEMAI5S OF SHUSHAN. 99
of the higher portions of those rivers, whose em- chap. bouchures I had passed during my recent ascent of the ^ — r^ — '
Karun. I therefore joined a small caravan destined for Dizful, and crossed the Abi-zal, a tributary of the Abi-zai Eiver Diz. We traversed a cultivated plain, and towards evening saw Dizful rising above the left bank of the ^^>^^^ former river. We entered the city by a fine bridge. A house, with the almost indispensable luxury of a * surdab,' was immediately allotted by the governor for my accommodation, and I had the means of examining the capital of Khuzistan and its neighbourhood with every advantage.
The site of the capital of the once mighty Empire of site of Assyria was, naturally, a leading object of interest to me ; and when still at the distance of three or four miles from Dizful, the remains of Shushan appeared, rising above the plain like a flat-topped mountain, with quite a range of lower hills stretching from it towards the SW.
Even their distant view was very impressive; but when seen from the great platform of the mound it- self, these vast ruins could not be contemplated with- it« nuns. out feelings almost amounting to awe. They have, however, been too often and too well described to need more than a cursory notice here. A general idea of their grandeur may be conveyed to the reader by the fact that the dimensions of the mound, by my pacing, were 1,700 yards long by 570 yards wide, and that its extreme slope from the ground was 170 feet at an angle of 70^.* The fragments of bricks, tiles, and
• Plate XXXn. vol. ii. of ' Euphrates Expedition ' is from a sketch taken on the spot.
u 2
^r*{* ^jjs^^:t:vi, ur tez zx?sLm& ixpcditiox.
.â– X
T»:ci2rr re "n^irh: 'ziratisnL irset ciiwis) with which it WB* srevT^ JL anfrhiinL ii- 5& fsa^ sk:pe. prore that it :^ EL crm'^L nozxLisiL V ii'yn-^rr-r'f**^^ miiis. probably iii:»r cjc SnsiiHL ziit I'iifcr^r 3K>Tr So?); whilst to a
foctthward, and at ^ the plain, extend
^ :c -rit^riaiaif. -will Sfeccr-ferrowed ades and a : ^crssL iTiL-CTrr mn liie jpmain< of the once
C»L iiif "iriLzi :c ibr SJiifc^cr. wri^ wft^^es the base :c ^fiif £rf*: ^lucidL 2*- ii^ iiznrcg looib erf* DanieL At i:»f "iziif :c ZLT t:s:i r: >£I -xciii^zied the Uaek stone, wji is- rfTTiirkLrAtf^ rcilzirail iufcnpcioiu which was jfrfTViri' Cij:irr v joe^^? tnr 50CDe Persian fanatic, j=Sv i.: 5i:nji fiZ ir^j- ib? ^ii>S? of a Giaour; for the c^ltf Trf'Ti^el iau jc: iKsr^zc bad been made to rf!i:«:T^ i^ :z^ rrifcrr *: j^eai is «> Str Bobert Gordon, ibi^ x: CcQgCk^fzi:cof.> I iji roc mvseif see the stone, 5:1:. c^ri^r^ t: ii»r ^xicaDC^ cc pi*gue in the vicinity, rrT:?I»f!i»>» jui.-ii.'ei ai«e 5c hih cc ibe threshold of the
Ftesje^i ijni izircessjei rr nT examination of the $t:e .c ?c ,::s\tT... I rtfcr*oei ray seeps towards Dizful, be: r«icc*c>I :: w:ij: <cQ«r ItSctihT, owin^ to a feeling
l^jbMd^M vvf -.,j>e^ W2x-;X jxr^-at?^ :ow:t:u5 ibe end of mv ride : ^ujftvl f :Ni:2^ :ttTs^fi: :?cll wtt^vij ^lex: morning, I sought lh<^ *i\ XV .^^ :^e £r?t 3«c5caL aan of the city. On per-
vx^v.^^a: r^y :i!5s?atiijis«^ >f otledoat. and repeated most <tK r5^v^x>i:\\ - Xo vit^jje : ^ and having used his lancet ;PK^o>h ^^5 f.v^Y, he iKwwded wiUi medical treatment, >KhKN vi;*,^ v\>«;:5t,;:s\l ;£:: tie aMfcrk— whether ordinary
100
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. VI.
Tomb of Daniel.
Hhiew at DUfiil.
pottery (of bright blue and green colours) with which it was strewn, in addition to its steep slope, prove that it is an artificial mountain of accumulated ruins, probably those of Shushan the Palace (now Sus) ; whilst to a distance of some three miles to the southward, and at an average height of eight feet above the plain, extend ranges of elevations with deeply-furrowed sides and a serrated crest, marking out the remains of the once splendid capital of 127 provinces.
On the bank of the Shapur, which washes the base of the great mound, is the famous tomb of Daniel. At the time of my visit it still contained the black stone, with its remarkable bilingual inscription, which was afterwards blown to pieces by some Persian fanatic, lest it should fall into the hands of a Giaour ; for the belief prevailed that an attempt had been made to remove it, in order to send it to Sir Robert Gordon, then at Constantinople. I did not myself see the stone, for, owing to the existence of plague in the vicinity, prudence induced me to halt on the threshold of the tomb.
Pleased and impressed by my examination of the site of Shushan, I retraced my steps towards Dizful, but reached it with some difficulty, owing to a feehng of illness which increased towards the end of my ride ; and finding myself still worse next morning, I sought the advice of the first medical man of the city. On per- ceiving my uneasiness, he caUedout, and repeated most energetically, * No plague ; ' and having used his lancet somewhat freely, he proceeded with medical treatment, which was continued till the attack — ^whether ordinary
DESCENT OF THE EABUM. 101
typhus-fever, or its extreme form of plague* — was chap, overcome. Happily, there soon was a change for the ^ — '
better when I returaed to Shuster ; but finding myself Return to
, ^ Shuster.
scarcely equal to a land-joiu'ney, I obtained a country boat, and descended the eastern branch of the Karun to Band-i-Kir. Here it is joined by the western arm, and Descent to
Band-i-
shortly afterwards, their united waters are augmented Kir. by the Eiver Diz. About eight miles lower down we passed the small town of Weis, on the left bank, opposite to which is the dry bed of a river, supposed to have been once part of the channel of the Shapur, or Shawur. Thence the descent was continued, sometimes sailing, at other times being tracked, without meeting any impediment until we reached the bund at Ahwaz The bund — which, however, was passed by our boat f without diflSiculty, it being quite under water. Beyond this we found no obstructions, and passing the second dry channel of the Shapur, on the right bank, and on the following day the considerable town of Ismaili, on the left, we continued to drop down this now tortuous stream, by Kut-el-Omrah, and thence to Sablah, a small village on the left bank, which is rather remark- able, as being the point from which the Kariin-el- Amarah (or Blind Karun) takes its departure. This The river passes the town of Kaban after completing two- Amarah. thirds of its course, and enters the sea at Dorakstan by two branches, which were dry at this season. The fleet of Nearchus must, apparently, have ascended by
* My late friend Dr. Baigrie^ whose experience of plague as well as tjphos had been extensive, regarded the former as the extreme stage of ^e latter, when exposed to a warm climate. Dr. Baigrie afterwaids him- self feU a victim to the terrible disease, while devoting himself to the relief of those attacked by it. His treatment was often eminently successful.
t Tbe boat was 66 feet long, about 7 feet beam, and drew 5 feet water.
102 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, this channel to Susa ; but its fonner waters are now
VI
conveyed, by a fine canal, to the town of Dorak,
Town of
Dowk. whence they flow into the Eiver Jerahi,
Continuing our descent from Sablah, we passed luxu- riant and almost continuous date-groves, till we brought up at Mohammerah, after a descent of about 230 miles from Shuster to that place. A little short of the town, the Karun makes an abrupt turn, almost at right- angles, and takes a south-easterly course, imder the name River Bah- of the Bah-a-Mishir, till it falls into the Persian Gulf, •"^^•^^- nearly 20 miles to the eastward of the Frit This was the course of the whole body of water of the Lower Karun, until the skill of the ancient Persians in the management of water enabled them to make a most beneficial change by cutting the Hafar Canal, Cntmade ^ uoblc work both in depth and width, which has Eiph^tes. op^i^^d ^ conamunication, through the Euphrates, to or from the Indian Ocean on the one side, and to Mesopo- tamia on the other.
Once again arrived at Mohammerah, a boat was
Arrival at quickly obtained ; and in four days more, I was under the
hospitable roof of the Resident at Bushire, Captain
Hennell, who was deeply interested in the ftirtherance
of the Euphrates question.
Hitherto my wanderings had been almost entirely solitary, but a companion now offered to join me — De Borowski, a Pole, who had recently arrived from India to seek employment in the Persian service.* Our joint arrangements in providing horses and mules were soon made, and on July 27, we commenced our in- tended journey of about 830 miles to Tabiiz. Our first
• This he succeeded in obtaining, and eventually lost his life during the protracted siege of Herat (1838).
VALLEY OF SHAPUR. 108
halting-place was the khan of Doriky. We travelled by chap. night, on account of the heat ; and after leaving Doriky, -
and fording the Eut Hana river, we commenced a steep ^"^• ascent over shelving slippery rocks, with here and there a parapet- wall on the side of the precipice. Four hours — through rugged rocks and other impediments, so great that this passage could scarcely be forced by an invading army — brought us to Kamarij. This small town Kanury. contains about 150 houses, and is perched almost at the summit of the pass, which is 2,800 feet above the plain. Descending by a winding road, we passed the villages of Tungo-Turcun and Shapur. The latter contains ShapOr. barely 50 mud dwellings, on the site of the once great capital of Persia, the massive sculptures of which (accord- ing to Morier) still occupy a space of six miles in cir- cumference in the Valley of Shapur. Judging from the figures with which these sculptures are ornamented in relief, they would appear to have belonged to the highest period of Persian art One of the most strik- ColoMal ing of these monuments is a colossal statue, of 20 feet in height, which is lying prostrate in a spacious cavern. In addition to these, there are other remains of former times ; for numerous air-shafts along the valley show that a line of * kanats ' has been carried beneath its sur- face from the site of ancient Shapur to the city which appears to have replaced it — namely, Kazerun. This KazerOii. place occupies the eastern side of the valley, and is traversed by a river and some canals. It contains two squares and three mosques, with cupolas sweUing outward towards the base in the Eoman style, and nearly 2,000 houses, which are constructed in the light open style of architecture so general in Persia.
104 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Going SSE. from Kazerun, between two ranges of ' — r^— rocky mountains about a mile apart, in less than two
hours we reached the tomb (or rather monument) Tamer- of Tamerlane. This occupies a niche in the rock tomb. at some ten paces above the ground, and it contains five or seven figures in basreHef, the most prominent of which is Timur himself and his caillon or pipe- bearer. The prince is represented grasping a Uon firmly with the left hand, and is about to slay the animal with a hanger which he holds in his right The other figures are armed, but are only looking on. Leaving these remains, we passed a small lake en- closed by high rocky hills, and turned northwards up a steep zigzag ascent, having sloping ramps at intervals. Knrtai This brought us to the summit of the lesser Pass of Kurtal, from which we descended to the khan of the same name, by a shelving rocky path bordered by trees on both sides. This khan is situated at an elevation of at least 1,000 feet above the plain. Thence we had to scale the higher portion of the Kurtal Pass, the summit of which we reached, after two hours' climbing over shelving and often rugged rocks, and forthwith com- menced the descent. At some distance from the summit we came upon an abundant stream, flowing from the north-east, and subsequently passed through the village of Disterge, consisting of about 200 houses, and the khan of Zigan^, to the plain, and proceeded Shira*. ouwards to Shiraz.
The position of this city renders it very striking. It stands in the centre of a well-cultivated mountain-basin in the midst of luxuriant gardens of roses. It is defended by a high wall flanked by semicircular towers, and
i
PROVINCB or FARS. 105
contains an ark or citadel, twelve or fifteen mosques, chap.
VI
extensive bazaars, numerous caravanserais, and about ' — r^ — '
40,000 inhabitants. In its immediate vicinity is the Population
tombofSadi.* of the city.
Shiraz, although holding an inferior position to Tehe- ran, is in reahty the most important city in the kingdom. It is the capital of the province of Fars, or Farsistan, Prorinoe which gives its name to the modern kingdom of Persia, and contains in itself more places of historic interest than all the rest of the Shah's dotoinions. Fars has a superficies of nearly 220 square miles, or about 44,335 geographical miles, and is defended by an almost con- tinuous barrier of lofty and rugged moimtains.
During our examination of Shiraz, we were subjected People iu- to some little annoyances and even hostilities from the "^^ common people, but the better classes seemed to be kind and hospitable. We visited, among others, one Hajji visit a
PeiBi&n
Mirza Mahommed, a merchant, whose reception-room merchant. was approached through a court shaded by orange- trees. The room was tastefully ornamented with stucco- work and stained-glass, the floor was covered with a carpet from Yezd, and the table with a rich blue-and- white cloth from the same city. The repast commenced with coffee served in the Turkish style, with milk and sugar also. This was followed by a table loaded with melons, peaches, pears, and an abundant supply of very choice sweetmeats. Tea, served with milk and sugar, followed ; and when taking leave, our host presented some attar of rose to each, and, with that courtesy which has given the Persian a claim to be regarded as the Frenchman of the East, expressed his disappointment
* See Plate XII. in vol. i. of ' Euphrates Expedition.'
106 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. * that we had not made his house our own, and that we
VI
^ — r-^^^ had not given him an opportunity of being more ser- viceable/
Our stay at Shiraz terminated with this visit, and we started in pursuit of the caravan, which had left whilst we were endeavouring to obtain mules for our
Tomb of baggage. We passed the tomb of Sadi, and examined its rude paintings, one of which represented Abraham offering up Isaac; and proceeding to the north-east, through the mountain barrier, we traversed rich fields of grain and of the castor-oil plant, and halted at the
Village of village of Zergan, in sight of Persepolis.
Here we had quite a scene with the natives, in conse- quence of having shghtly cut my hand whilst at
Cut finger, breakfast. The Persians have the greatest repugnance to the sight of blood, and, to pacify them at all, I was forced to abstain from breakfast altogether ; and even after that concession to their feelings, we had great difficulty in inducing the four men, whom we had en- gaged to accompany us to the ruins, to go with us. They talked continually of impending danger, and their fears went so far as to cause two of our escort to turn aside, and leave us almost immediately. We, however, persevered in our determination to visit the ruins, which already rose before us — ^the remaias of the matchless
Ruins of Persepolis, the most detailed examination of which
poiis. only deepened our first impressions of their great beauty.* I will not, however, linger over their well- known description, merely mentioning that we devoted the greatest care and attention to the examination of
♦ Plates LL and LII. ' Expedition to Euphrates and Tigris ' (vol. ii. p. 620), from a drawing furnished to the author by the late Colonel D'Arcy, give a general view of those ruins.
SETHEAT OF THE TWO. 107
the site of this city, and then prepared to return to chap. Zergran. - — r^^ — »
As we were crossing the adjoining marsh — where we disturbed whole flocks of cranes, cygnets, and flamingoes--our meditations on the ancient Empire of Persia were unpleasantly interrupted by the sight of several armed men coming rapidly towards us from some higher ground. Borowski was a little in advance, and his back turned towards them. I shouted to him to look out for an attack, and hastened towards him ; and we moved on, keeping at a short distance from each other, prepared for mutual protection. We were Threat- each menaced by six men in the one case, seven in the Stack, other, all armed with bludgeons. In this way we passed through a field of tall standing corn, when Borow- ski suddenly called out, in his pecuhar way, that ' some gentlemen were coming up with guns.' Turning round, I saw three armed men hurrying up to cross our path, but we just managed to head them, although Borowski was all but cut off; and thus protecting each other, we continued the * retreat of the two,' as my companion expressively called it, until we reached the village in safety. The inhabitants expressed great joy at our having escaped a danger, which they no doubt had had a share in preparing for us, and which would have verified their ominous prognostications of the morning.
Our caravan was augmented by an escort taking a large sum of money to the royal treasury at Teheran, Treasure but this addition proved to be a source of danger rather than of security. We marched during the night, and our first halt was at Mayen, a small town HiUt at siUTOunded by walnut-trees, and having a range of
108 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, rocky hills on either side. During the following night
' — r' — ' an attack was made on the Shah's treasure, and his
bags of tomans had been almost carried off by armed
Attempt to men, when the screams of 'Frangi — Frangi! ' from the
caravan, eunuch in charge, made us hasten to his assistance.
Our party soon became the assailants in their turn, and
the robbers ran off, leaving three guns, some donkeys,
and other property behind them.
May en contains only about 150 houses, and has the usual protection of a circular mud wall. Great pre- cautions for our safety were taken, on resuming our journey, especially while skirting a succession of bare Kiizigan rocky hills. During the night we passed the spacious madoya. wcU-built caravauscrais of Kuzigan and Chemadoya. The latter, as well as the siurounding country, had been deserted, in consequence of the inability of the Prince of Shiraz to protect the inhabitants against the exactions of his elder brother. Abbas Mirza. Ywsdi- We reached Yezdiskast by daylight, and found it
to be a remarkable castellated town, occupying an isolated rocky tongue of land, about 600 yards long itaposi- by 150 yards wide. It commands the opening into
tlOD.
a valley, which cuts like a fissure into the plain we had just crossed. The walls of this stronghold rise about 250 feet above the small river which washes their base, and is crossed by narrow drawbridges, the only means of access to the place. The earthen ramparts immediately above these walls bore ample and siege marks of Abbas Mirza's recent futile attempts to Mina. reducc the town. Being destitute of artillery, he sought to effect a breach by continuous volleys of musketry, but, as may be supposed, without any
A BUSSIAN EMPLOTfl. 109
result, beyond that of a useless expenditure of am- €Hap. munition. We were not allowed to enter the town - — t^ — '
to procure food ; our supplies were therefore limited to a few pigeons, killed by my companion's gun, for supper ; and on the following morning we reached the considerable town of Homisher, and put up at a com- Homiiher modious caravanserai, built (as is usual in this part of ^ Persia) of sun-dried bricks. The monotony of our journey was here enhvened by a meeting with Baron D'Acht, a Eussian employ^, wlio had halted at Homisher to pay his respects to Abbas Mirza. We spent the evening together, after which we resumed our journey, and on the following afternoon we were cheered by the first sight of the glittering cupolas and tapering Ispahan
1 A -r 1 ftD<i the en-
minarehs of Ispahan. Tirona.
Hospitahty awaited me in the house of Padre Denderieh, a Eoman Cathohc priest, and under his auspices I had a most favourable opportunity of seeing the city and its environs. In order to get a good general coup-d'cHl of the capital, I ascended to the gallery of the Talat, whence a most extensive pano- ramic view is obtained. A circular rugged mountain Panoramic
VlfiW Ox
barrier forms the background to a rich plain of about the dty. 29 miles in width. This plain is studded in every direction with towers, which I ascertained to be dove- cotes for the supply of the city ; while its surface is pierced with openings into the tunnels, or *kanats,* which are skilfully constructed underground, in order to bring, by various converging lines, the requisite supply of water for the town.
In the city itself the most conspicuous buildings, as Principal viewed from the Talat, are its two strongholds or ofiapaUn.
l^t yACTnTTE or THE ETPHRiTES EIPEDinOX.
:^ cr^ih:^.. sm:! h- seveL rora] palaces and their garden?,
- '^^•'^ '^r 'J:ie!jej-ej-I^K:>rui is the most remarkable.
I^-=:-"^'~t sarevaiijez^ai? and some miles of baaiars, ■'-i^rr^TirL II Uif d2iT^ of Shah Abbas, were also pro- ZLZs-Eu: - :Mrj:a. af- vcC as ihe Maidan Shah or Great >r-:isrT iiu: iiir r-ijea cupi^las of the numerous r. •*-. L-tL fWr.JTrc :«u: iC'wards their base, were the z^ ==" fTJziic .♦"lyr^:? ::l I'nis extended picture. The :-*rt- .-- r~=: L-^lr-.-rll^ ^:il ;:* "winding course, and crossed "^ :f : .:r iir.'^t^ v-.±:l ihr ojir, adds much to the
iii^urr _.: Hit i -eiit. '~*hr of diese bridges is a fine fik'.l::.^ c "Jjt lersiLi STrle of architecture. It islG4 t-ltI.' j-c^" : J i!;^ Tiri z. infii. and rests upon 25 very -^■:: ]K'.Lwl LTv-iKs. Ii: lir centre is a very wide • 'iCi'L .iTTiLj—wiv. iL'I :c eiiher side of this, at a s. cj: ^:**.; L^ijic 'evrl ierr are k^xwavs, also protected
--. - '•-*%. ■~^ ■,■"— " •mH «sr~— c '^T*
Ti: j^rr .L^li 1. -K-rver, on cl'>?er inspection, de- sr^ ~? :!-. :l!-^':c n^-^i bv ihe more distant view. T: -. :•:..- -trel-ki:': riJ'iras And D*.»ble palaces of the :^-: ;•; S:-iJi A:«:»as ire Lisieniiiii to deoav, and since TzljirLL 1:^ :e:-:'r:t ;bc sea: of the Court, even the n:is^i:e?w :tt.:l?w hjL oar&vanseriis of Ispahan have been licclecic-i Thnr hazaars alone still retain some of their AciriiT Alii life. Those portions of their ex- re oorertti-in winding streets ^which formerly A space of three miles) which are still iu- jlhitedy have full employment in providing for the te of tiie people, although the population had dimi- fiv>m 600,000 in the time of Chardin, to less 150,000 in 1S31. At the time of mr vtit to Ispahan, great excitement
WAS BETWEEN RUSSIA AND POLAND. Ill
prevailed, in consequence of a victory gained by the chap. Poles over the Russians, which was then deemed to be ' — r^ — ' of the greatest importance to the future of Persia. The desigM* favourite project for turning this to account was a ^^^^ combined movement of the Persian and Turkisli forces, for the purpose of setting Poland free, of driving the Russians beyond the Caucasus, and of regaining the territories lost, in later times, on both shores of the Cas- pian. My companion was naturally quite carried away by this prospect of the resuscitation of Poland, and the brightest visions filled his enthusiastic brain.
On September 3, we left Ispahan for the royal camp. Our depa»- hoping to ascertain whether there was any real inten- lapahan. tion of taking part in the Polish war ; visiting the tomb of Baba, and the trembling tower, on our way to Amenabad, the site of the royal camp. We found a TheShah'i regiment under arms on either side of the Shah s tent, which was of crimson cloth, very spacious and open to the front, in consequence of which we had a good view of His Majesty. He wore a dress of fine grey cloth, and was seated on a cushion, his ample beard reaching to his waist. Immediately behind him was a spacious square enclosure of crimson cloth, on the sides of which figures of soldiers, as if under arms, were painted ; behind this, again, were the various tents of the harem.
The next mornins we visited the camp of Abbas Camp of Mirza, which was at a short distance from that of the a,aiid our Shah, and were at once presented to the Prince. He was on a divan, in the back part of a tolerably roomy tent, and his appearance, though less striking than that of the Shah, was still dignified. His attire was far
112
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES BXPEDITIOK.
CHAP. VI.
Intemew with the Prime Hiniflter.
Visit
the Tak-i- Bostani temple.
richer than that of his father. He had a brace of pistols beside him on his right hand, which we were informed were kept loaded in case of any sudden emer- gency. There was a railing in front of his ottoman, outside which his visitors and part of his suite were placed. Finding that I belonged to the Royal Artillery, the Prince at once enquired after Colonel D'Arcy and Major Stone, who had both been formerly employed m Persia. He then adverted to the Polish war and to the means of giving assistance to the Poles, and after a lengthened and interesting conversation, we withdrew.
The next morning, at a very early hour, we were summoned to an interview with Mahomet Ali Mirza Khan, the Prime Minister. We found him occupied in dyeing his beard with henna, but he at once entered on the subject of the Polish war, and suggested the joint advance of the Persians and Turks, in this first instance, and an application to Great Britain for assistance, through her Envoy at Tabriz.
During our stay in the camp at Amenabad, we made an excursion to the ancient Guebre temple of Tak-i- Eustam, which is situated on the summit of one of the surrounding mountains. It consists of three caverns, of which that on the western side is the most interest- ing. It is about 45 feet in length, divided midway by a low wall, from side to side. The deep red stains on the walls of this excavation — remains of the ancient painting — are still partially visible. In the outer cavern are several figures, cut in bold relief — others are quite detached from the rock. The fire-temple itself is in the innermost cavern ; its base is 9 feet square by 4 feet high, with 9 square niches on each side, containing
MABCH OF A PESSUN ARMY 113
remains of small and now almost efiaced figures. A chap. moderate-sized dome rests on this platform, the summit ^ — . — ' of which, as well as the rock above it, bear marks of the flame, once perpetually kept burning. The walls still show traces of a coating of yellowish cement, and in the farther cave are the remains of a figure, appa- rently that of a man, and one of a bird resembUng an owl. There are also some sentences in Aramaic, and in other still more ancient characters.*
We left the camp in all the bustle of preparation for p»pm»- the coming hostilities with Eussia, and, passing again war with through Ispahan, resumed our journey. We soon came up with the Prince's half- Asiatic, half-European army, and continued with the troops the whole day. The Persian soldier is easily fed, consequently little baggage and. few animals are required ; a single donkey carries provisions enough for several privates, though in this instance a suflScient supply of food was the more need- iiil, inasmuch as the walled towns and villages along the Prince's line of march thought it quite necessary to close their gates most carefully against his troops. They March of marched in succession by the small towns of Muchaha, ^j^T*" Mayena, and the defensible place of Fort Gorowsky, the seat of a robber-tribe, who were prepared to defend their keep, if necessary. We came upon several lines of ' kanats,' and saw the results of these means of irriga- tion, in most luxuriant plots of melons near the village of Baba. These were wiihovi the walls, and were con- sequently soon disposed of by the thirsty soldiers.
• Vol. iL (pp. 608, 609) of < Expedition to the Euphrates and Tigris/ gives a facsimile as weU as the presumed translations of these inscrip- tions, with a fuller aooonnt of this fire-temple.
114 NARRATITE OF THE EUPHBATBS EXPEDITION.
^Sf ^' Towards sunset, we diverged a little fix)m the line of march, and arrived at Dowlat-Abad, a place of some
Abftd. strength, where we were steadily refused admittance lest we should be followed by the troops ; and we were obhged to he down, supperless, outside the gate, and during the sound sleep which followed on our long ride, my sword was taken from beneath my pillow.
Leaving Dowlat- Abad next morning, we passed a line of ^ kanits,' which seem to have terminated at the ancient
Jemshid city of Jcmshid. Its remains are extensive, and com- prise a mound of considerable size, which may have been the citadel. It appears to have been circular, and buik of imbiUTit bricks of very large size. Ruins of towersj walls, and fitigments of glass and pottery, scattered for some distance around, mark this as the site of a once extensive city. We were now in the Plain of
Sowa Sowa, and a clay-built village of this name, remarkable for dome-shaped roofs, such as are common in Egypt, stands near the ruined mound. Here also we again observed the Une of ' kandts,' which is kept open by baked earthen rings, placed at short intervals from one another along the channel. A httle beyond Sowa we
Buinsof saw the extensive ruins of Nowok-Koh, and the
Koh. Mountain of Salt, and passed in succession the villages of Dungy, Seggabet,' Zeabet, and Singala. This last was our restingplace for the night. It is a lai^e mud-
Singaia. built village, situated on the slope of a conical hill, and watered by an abundant stream. The country around it is extremely fertile, proofs of which every- where met our eye, in piles of neatly-cut stored-up grain.
Ruina of ^^^^ faTsaugs through a hilly country brought us next
suitanea ^^y ^^ ^^le extcnsive remains of Sultanea, comprising
KAVAGBS OP THE PLAGUE. 115
several mosques, one of which is still a fine building, chap. Disappointed in finding quarters in this once hand- -- » -^
some city, we skirted a httle swelling hill, ornamented by a kiosk belonging to the 8hah, and in the afternoon saw the walla and towers of Zingana rising before us. Zinganii. This town was to have been our halting-place for the night ; but, even at this distance of time, I cannot recall without a shudder the melancholy picture which it presented. The people were flying from the plague, while numerous freshly-made graves, and a homeless population, warned us to resume our journey without delay.
We hastened onwards to the village of Zingayra, Zingaji*. which was still free from this dreaded disease; and during the next evening, after traversing a hilly country intersected with ravines, and passing the kiosk of Abbas Mirza, we reached the Plain of Ach- ?i?«^ <>'
Aboaa
media, where we were welcomed with Indian hos- Mirm. pitality by the British Envoy and Mrs. Campbell, whom 9*?^^ we found encamped on this spot, in consequence of »»d the the spread of plague in Tabriz. The interest evinced pw^* by Captain Campbell,* and his assistant, Mr. McNeill,t and various guests, in my projected Euphrates navi- gation, was warmly appreciated by me ; and I re- mained with them for some weeks, planning the best means of fturthering my enterprise in England, as well as in India. Our occupations were temporarily interrupted by a summons from Abbas Mirza to Captain Campbell, to confer with him on the subject of the Poles. But before he reached the capital, the
• Now Sir John Nicholl Robert Campbell, Bart, K.C JI. t Now the Right Hon. Sir John McNeill, G.C.B.
1 2
116 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, success of the Russians had put an end to the hopes • — . — ' entertained by both Poles and Persians, and the Envoy
returned to us at once. Question The great importance of opening a line of corn- route to munication with India by the Euphrates, had been already submitted, privately as well as publicly, by the Envoy and Mr. McNeill, not only to the authorities in India, but also to the East India Company and the Board of Control. Our knowledge, however, of some parts of the line to be traversed was at that time still PpopoMd very imperfect, and it was therefore considered tion of the desirable that I should make an examination of the piiiStes.'^ Upper Euphrates, and of a portion of the coimtries on each side of the river, on my way home. For this purpose, I made arrangements at once to go to Tre- bizonde, and thence to cross Asia Minor to the Upper Euphrates and the shores of the Mediterranean. In doing this, I also proposed to myself, though as a secx)ndary object of interest, to follow the march of the Ten Thousand. Tabriito Everything being ready by December 12, I ex- changed the warm hospitality of the Envoy for the bitter cold of the upland of Tabriz, and the next morning reached Khoi, where I was delayed for horses. This place is mentioned in connection with a mission from Henri m. of France to Tamerlane, in 1603. It is still of some consequence, and boasts of a castle and the usual crenelated walls, flanked by round towers, surrounded by a shallow ditch and an imperfect glacis. It has mosques and bazaars, with a population of 10,000 souls.
A ride through deep snow brought us to the
TOWN OP BAYAZID. 117
considerable viUage of Ali-Sheikh, on the banks of chap. the Ach-chi. Its houses are low, flat-roofed, and are - — r^ — ' supplied with piles of horse-dung for fuel The i^"^I^ Persians being good cooks, our supper was ex- ^"^^' cellent, and would have been much enjoyed under other circumstances ; but a crowd of curious gazers did not leave us room to sit, much less to enjoy our meal.
Having forded the Ach-chi the next morning, three hoiu^' ride brought us to the wild and lengthened pass of Turconchy, and in seven hours more we reached the TtM of stone-built village of Taylea, near which there are ^*
springs of tepid water. Our route oifwards lay through the village of Killysoy to the entrance of a deep valley, l>eyond which Mount Ararat appeared, with the town of Bayazid, hanging, as it were, sus- Armratwid
, , Bayftsid.
pended from the mountain-side nearly on a level with ourselves. The scene increased in beauty as we ap- proached the moimtmn, and saw the town more distinctly, stretching upwards to a castellated work, which occupies the summit of the steep and craggy shoulder at the base of Ararat. Bayazid is defended by a strong loopholed wall, flanked by square towers. It contains a mixed population of Armenians, Greeks, Popuint
and Turks — three mosques, two Christian churches, and a monastery.
But the most striking object is the serai of the Dereh Bei, who is a hereditary chieftain and Pacha of * two tails,' which is remarkable not only from its position, but also from its singularly massive parapet- wall, rising from the very edge of the craggy eminence from which it commands the town. Bayazid is the last Turkish town short of the Russian Umits.
id
ion
and de- scent.
118 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Moving, as we were now doing, along an ascending
' — r-^ — ' valley, the great mountain, of which the elevation had
LittJj A^ hitherto been comparatively lost, appeared higher and
^^' higher as we proceeded : gradually the bluff outline of
Little Ararat came in sight, and when we reached the
summit of the pass near Diadin, Ararat itself rose
before us, towering with matchless grandeur. Ac-
Eieva- cording to Dr. Parrot, who visited Ararat in 1829, its
tion, &c. "
height is 10,254 feet, and the second peak 12,284 feet — the former being thus more than 1,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc .• The basaltic rocks around
Diadin. the stroug castlc of Diadin, and the serai of the Dereh Bei, give some interest to the place. The houses are of stone, and have a pile of fodder and dung, for fuel, on each of their flat roofs. The dress of the men was a mixture of Turkish and Persian costume — some wearing the indispensable fez of the former, others the high-pointed sheepskin caps of the latter.
Our ride onwards by tJlad Kelessa, and across the Murad Su to Maksonda, was rendered most interesting by the grandeur and constantly varying aspect of Moimt
Arariit. Ararat. Its lofty peak, backed by a clear blue sky, stood out in perfect distinctness, and three shoulders were also visible, which seemed to terminate, in a moderate slope, westward towards the plain. We passed the night in some subterranean dwellings, the
Visit the residence of the Dereh Bei, Muhammed, being the
of Mak- only stone-built house in the place, consisting of a large apartment with three divisions in it, and a stable adjoining. He received us with much hospitality,
•General Monteitli : 'Height of Ararat,* vol. iii. of 'Royal Geo- grapliical Society's Journal/
tonda.
SUBTERRANEAN DWELLINGS. 119
and was handsomely dressed, with a good deal of gold chap. lace about him, and the loose red cap of the Kurds ^ — r^^ — '
hanging behind the head. Coffee and pilau were served, and I made some tea, which the Bei tasted for the first time in his Mfe.
Taking leave of our host after coffee the next morning, a dreary day's ride of nine hours brought us to Toprah Kaleh, a defensible building of some Topmh strength, attached to a considerable village of the same name, of which we saw nothing, as it was completely buried in snow. We w^e, however, kindly welcomed, and a good supper prepared for us in one of these buried dwellings, but where we had to undergo the trial of most intense suffocating heat, caused by a crowd of wandering Kurds. Our route now lay by Abougist Castle and the village of Taher to Delli Baba, Deiii BaU where the dwelling-places are imbedded in the side dweiUngs. of the hill, and for the sake of warmth, during the severe winters of Armenia, each house is provided with an oven, which divides it into two small apartments, both well heated.
The only hght admitted is by a small pane of glass over the door. There was but Uttle worth relating in Arae
c
nvof
each day's journey as we proceeded, crossing the Aras by a bridge of seven pointed arches between high buttresses, and advancing through a well-cultivated plain to Hasan KAl'ah, which was an important place Ha«in in the time of the Genoese Kepublic. It has now fallen to decay. The remaining houses are of stone, with flat roofs of earth, supported by logs of timber brought from the forests around Kars. It is chiefly remark- able for its hot springs, some of which are bituminous,.
120 NABRAT1V£ OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOy.
gHAP. while others contain iron and lime. Their greatest heat ' — r^-^ is 105** Fahrenheit. In one spot, resembling a crater, ^^^ the water rushes up in such a copious stream, that its
ipr^g"- basin is constantly well filled, and forms a deep and spacious natural bath, much frequented by bathers, and used by both sexes alternately. The Pacha kindly arranged that I should have it to myself for a time, and I luxuriated in a most enjoyable swim, which caused the fatigue of my long journey, through deep snow, to become quite a thing of the past. Hasan Our progrcss to Erzerum was slow, on account of
Ereerum. the depth of the snow ; and when at length we en- tered the capital of Armenia, the buildings on either side were scarcely to be distinguished, so completely were they buried in its soft white folds. Here ended the second stage of my journey (of 405 miles from Tabriz to Erzerum), through Persia and Armenia, from Bushire and the estuary of the Orontes.
121
CHAPTEE Vn.
EBZERUM TO TKEBIZONDE, AND FROM THENCE TO THE MEDITERRINEAK
COAST THROUGH ASIA MINOR.
Consul Zohrab's hospitality, and his local knowledge, 9S^* greatly facilitated my enquiries respecting Erzerum • ' — 7; — ' and its vicinity. It is situated nearly in the centre of &c. of ir- a very elevated table-land, f between the Kai-d Su, or western arm, and the Murad Su, or western branch of the Euphrates, which are only 19 miles apart. J It is the seat of the government of the Vizier Azem, or Governor of Asiatic Turkey, who, although lately deprived of the dependencies of Kars and Ackaltzek, holds the third place in the Sultan's Empire, — ^Egypt and Bagdad being the first and second.
Erzerum is feebly defended by a line of walls flanked by towers, and a castellated work in the centre of the city. Its principal buildings are a Greek and Armenian church«i church, and thirty-six mosques, one of which is of Mosques. Persian architecture, and is remarkable for its light arabesque tracery. The khans are numerous, and the bazaars very extensive, and supply wool, leather, cut- Trade, lery, Damascus sword-blades, and other objects of trade. Erzerum, however, now possesses but the shadow of its
* Once De Garen, ancient Theodoiopolis, Moses Chorene, Hist. lib. iii. cap. 4.
t According to Consul Brant (* Royal Geographical Society's Journal,' Tol. vi. p. 200)^ this plain is 5,500 feet above the level of the sea. But Mr. Walpole's calculation gives it an elevation of 7,000 feet.
J Ibid. Note, p. 210.
i
122 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, former prosperous commerce. On the entrance of the ^ — r-^ Eiissians into the city, in 1831, the Turkish inhabitants fled ; and Paskiewitch subsequently caused the greater part of the Armenian families to remove vrithin the Eussian territory, which necessarily almost completed the ruin of the place, by reducing the population from 130,000 to about 15,000.*
I left Erzenim on December 26, crossed the Kard Sii, and halted for the night at the extensive village of Khapoo- Khapoona. Every comer of this place was occupied navi age. ^^ ^ passing caravau, and it seemed as if shelter — which in the midst of an Armenian winter is almost a question of life and death — ^would be out of the ques- tion. At length I obtained a small space between a stable and a cowhouse, where I passed the night most Murad comfortably. Passing over the Murad Chai, we reached Baibut° the gold-mines of Kabdn Maden, and halted at Bai- but, which is a place of some importance, in conse- Aghana qucncc of its proximity to the mines of Aghana Maden, which produce gold and silver as well as copper. The population are chiefly miners. Tradition carries the existence of this place back to the time of Alexander, under the ancient name of Hisparatus, and its mines are mentioned by Strabo.f
A deep and narrow valley leads the travellers from
Argin. Baibut to the village of Argin, situated at the foot
of a very steep ascent. This valley gradually opens
out, and becomes clothed, first with juniper, then
with pine-trees, while villages of stone-built flat-roofed
• Consul Brant^ * Royal Qeographical Society's Journal/ voL x. pt. 2, p. 231.
t Malte Brun, * G^o^rapliie/ vol. viii. p. 157.
YAUfiT OF GHUMISH KHANEH. 123
houses and castles appear at intervals on the hillside, chap.
vn As we advanced towards Ghumish Khaneh, vegetation v.
became more luxuriant. Elms, alders, and other forest ^JJJ^ trees were interspersed with juniper and pine along the ^J^^ western side of the valley, whilst on the right the hills were bare and rugged Ghumish Khaneh, or the 'Fountain of Silver,' consists of an upper and lower town, occupying a bend of this wild and rocky valley, which is watered by the Eiver Kharshish. It consists of some 2,000 Turkish and 600 Greek or Armenian dwellings, built up the steep slopes of the hills on each side of the river, having slanting roofs covered with shingles. Iron and copper are still smelted by the people, and this Miaena half-neglected district also produces lead, silver, and S^^' some gold. The valley, which is already narrow at this spot, becomes more and more so as the traveller proceeds onwards, until there is scarcely room for a narrow passage beside the river, and he feels that his safety depends on the retaining-wall, which alone secures him a precarious footing. This dangerous spot is about three-and-a-half hours' ride from the mines, which are reached by crossing the valley by a very high bridge. Beyond this point the valley widens out, and barberry and thorn, as well as juniper and pines, are plentiM along its left side. We halted at the village of Tekeh for the night, but could get no better Tekeh accommodation than a crowded stable, where, in spite ^^^^^^^ of the confusion of settling loads, and the noise of currycombs, we managed to sleep soundly. The steep ascent which awaited us beyond this place could only be accomplished with safety by daylight.
The 10,000 Greeks must have followed this valley as
(
124 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, far as Ghumish Ehaneh, and must there have found
VII
' — r-^ themselves most unexpectedly cut off from the sea by
tein^^" *^^ intervening lofty range of mountains. They must ^th?*^ therefore have continued their march along this valley GreekB. ^ud that of Godol, lying to the south-west, until they had an opportunity of obtaining such intelligence as led to their partly retracing their steps in order to reach the sea. Taking a guide from what had been their divei^ing point, I passed through the small town of Yenisher to the foot of the great mountain barrier now rising before me. An ascent of two hours, through pines, rhodo- dendrons, and brushwood, brought me to the village of Zingani, from whence, in two hours more, we reached the summit of the pass, which, according to Consul Brant, is 4,580 feet above the plain.*
The descent, especially through the forest, was
Beautiful morc diflScult than the ascent ; but the scenery was
â– ceneiy. pomautic and beautiful, reminding me of the Alps in
grandeur, and luxuriantly wooded with beech, pine, and
the silver-poplar. This was succeeded by a winding
descent over undulating shoulders of the range, with
shingle-roofed houses at intervals, reminding me of
similar buildings and scenery in the Balkan Mountains.
Yeni We passed the village of Yeni Kupri, situated amidst
Jxupn.
magnificent pines and gigantic rhododendrons, and crossed to the right side of the valley, which had now again become very narrow, and was quite closed in by mountain-ash and beech-trees of extraordinary size. Midway along this valley, we passed the remarkably Ockiey Swiss-lookiug village of Ockley Khaneh, and stopped for the night at a kind of shop, resuming our journey early
* (
Koyal Geographical Society's Journal/ vol. vi. pt. 2.
CITT OF TBEBIZONBE. 125
on the following morning (December 31 ). We passed ^y^' the two villages of Hamonri, and rode on through a ' — ' — ' well- wooded country to Geveslik, opposite to which, on ^neiy on- the other side of the valley, we saw the serai of Aib ^*^ Oglii Osman-Agha, an ancient-looking building, with a high-pitched projecting roof^ massive white walls and verandahs, and two square towers, as means of defence. As we advanced, we passed the conspicuous castle of Kusk Oglu, a brother of the famous Dereh Bei ; and going alternately north-east and north-west, through woods of noble beech and pine, we caught sight of the sea from some of the windings of the valley, and came upon a view of the castle and city of Trebizonde, with the Black Sea beyond ; and thus the last evening of 1831 was happily spent, under the hospitable roof of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, Mr. Brant.
Trebizonde occupies the lowermost slope of the lofty Position «f and almost unbroken mountain-chain, which reaches sonde, from the shores of the Caspian to those of the Black Sea, where its rich and picturesque scenery form the back- ground of the city itself. It seems to have been first mentioned in history as a Milesian settlement, and to have been connected with the early Asiatic trade through Kai, Balkh, &c. At a later period Trebizonde is mentioned by Herodotus, and it was one of the cities taken by Xerxes 430 B.C.* We know also that it was suflS- its early ciently rich and extensive to entertain Xenopho^'s ^' followers for 30 days, during which the gymnic games were celebrated.f It attained its greatest importance during the Lower Empire, when it became a royal seat.
• Lib. y. cap. tI.
t ' Anabasia/ lib. iv. cap. 8.
126 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. The town covers an elevated tongue of land, at the
VII . . ...
inner extremity of which is the citadeL A line of
works is carried from the end of the point, round the plateau, to its other extremity, thus enclosing the space once occupied by the original city, which formed a parallelc^ram of 800 yards from SE. to NW., and 200 yards across. The present buildings enclose part of Ancient the aucieut site at their western extremity, from whence Trebi- they cxtcud, in a square form, almost to the edge of the ~'^^"- Black Sea, bemg 900 yards m length by 800 in width. The modem houses occupy a lower level than those in the older enclosure. Some of the latter, and the remains of the mole and basin, appear to have been the work of the Genoese. The destruction of these works has left the commerce of Trebizonde dependent on its safe anchorage, which is, happily, remarkably secure : for, owing to the bold mountains near the town, the wind reverberates, and as, consequently, it cannot blow home, the anchorage is comparatively safe, even when there is a gale from seaward, itspopu- In 1832 the population numbered about 30,000 souls, including 2,000 Armenians and 4,000 Greeks. The streets are planted with trees, and the houses, being low and flat-roofed, are nearly hidden by their foliage, but the mosques and churches are very conspicuous. Nineteen of the latter still remain, but they were formerly much more numerous ; many have now been converted into mosques, one of which (Santa Sophia) is a circular and striking building. The cereal and mineral productions of the surrounding country having Commerce been well-managcd lately, there has been consider- * ^^ ^* able increase in the trade and commeFce of the place
COMMERCE OF THE GENOESE. 127
(from 5,000 bales in 1830 to 20,000 in 1832), and chap.
vu.
several of the old Genoese castles have been converted ^ into store-depots in consequence.*
After a fortnight, spent most agreeably and profitably with Mr. Brant, I prepared for my somewhat serious journey to explore the Upper Euphrates. I engaged three ba^age-mules and two horses, and left Trebi- Leara zonde on January 14, 1832, and entered the wild tooda' mountains, which have been so graphically described by the Father of (especially) Military History.
Eetracing my route as far as Ghumish Khaneh, we Oo^oi • halted at the Castle of Gfodol, which is a very remark- able building, occupying the crests of two pinnacles of massive rock, between which there is a third portion of the castellated work, so judiciously placed at the intersection of a cross-valley as to facilitate and protect the commerce of the Genoese. Leaving Godol, we passed through a wooded coimtry, with occasional hamlets and mills, and the large village of Damende. Towards evening we came upon Byan^-Kaleh, another B7an^ Gtenoese post, where we halted, and visited the mineral the ** springs near the castle. The valley is here closely shut ^"^' in by wild precipitous hills, and at once recalled to my mind Xenophon's graphic description of this portion of the retreat : — ^indeed, every step now identified his well-known localities, and proved the faithfiilness of his descripticms of those natural features on which time has made but little change.
The sea is visible from three lofty mountains in this vicinity — ^fi'om that of Zingana, from the higher
• Consul Brant's Report, 'Royal Geograpliical Society's Jonmal/ vol. Ti. p. 191.
i
128
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP. VU.
Gaior Tagh and the sea yisible.
Defensiye potiitioD of the Macro- nians.
Position of theCk>l- chians turned
Karagool, and from the Gaiur Tagh, or ' Infidel Moun- tain.' I waded through deep snow to the summit of the * holy Mountain of Theches/ and on reachmg it, I felt inclined to exclaim, with Xenophon's patient followers, * The sea ! — The sea !' * I came to the condu- gion that this was the very spot where all their anxieties and uncertainties had been brought to a close by the sight of the sea at a short distance from them. They had now, their position being ascertained, only to descend from a height of some 5,000 feet, and then to continue their march, as they appear to have done, for some eleven or twelve miles along the Valley of Damajala, where two rivers and four valleys meet.
Here the enemy was prepared to dispute the passage. The Macronians were posted behind steep banks rising from the farther side of a deep valley, which was so narrow that the armies were within speaking distance. Xenophon at once entered into vivd-voce negotiations with the enemy, from the oppo- site side of the valley, which terminated favourably ; and the Greeks proceeded peaceably towards the Pass of Zingani, which, as I have already described, had caused them to make their long divergent march. Their arrival at this spot was, however, now attended with a different result ; for although the Colchians occupied the side of a steep mountain rising to about 5,000 feet above the sea, Xenophon's military talents enabled him to overcome every difficulty. Perceiving that a direct attack could not but fail, he divided his army into eleven columns, which were to ascend the moimtain at
♦ AnabftHiS; lib. iv. cap. 7.
MINES OF SHBfi-KHAN£H» 129
certain distances from each other, and thus not only out- chap. flank the Colchians, but at the same time attack them — r-^ in rear. This movement was eminently successful : the Colchians fled, the route was left open, the mountain quietly passed, and in three days Xenophon and his daring followers had reached their destined port, and were preparing for their ulterior operations.*
It is useless to delay the reader by a journal of my Aium- daily progress — ^now ascending and descending moim- tain slopes, now zigzagging along their sides, but without meeting with any objects of special interest, exceptmg the alum-mines of Shap Ma'dan, which give employment to about 70 Greek and Armenian families. Crossing the Kara-Hisdr, I reached the picturesque town of the same name, built on a conical rocky hill about 800 feet above the plain, and defended by a Genoese castle, the keep and hexagonal flanking-towers of which are still in good repair, and enclose two Em, masses of rock. The hill is almost impr^nable, and the town is protected as well as commanded by its castle. It consists of the usual flat-roofed houses, and contains a population of about 2,000 Armenian families. The neighbouring mines of Sheb-Khaneh make this a place of some importance.
Beyond Kara-His&r I passed the villages of Gumbat and Guzellan, and that of Kenk, said to be in the neighbourhood of some remarkable ruins, which on inspection dwindled down to a few ancient tombstones. As we approached this village in the dark, our steps were guided by the flickering of many lights, and the
* A fuller account of the moyements of the Greeks will he found at pp. 20S-24dy YoL ii. of < Expedition to Euphrates and Tigris.'
K
i
130 NAKRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, sounds of merrymaking, proceeding fix)m a group of
— r-^ men and boys, who were dancing round a fire, lighted
on the outskirts of the village in honour of a wedding.
Proceed Followiug the coursc of the Kizil-Irmak, the mountains
Kirii- * gradually receded, as we passed in succession through
the villages of Jerryoon, Yarasson, Yene, and Koch-
asor, the latter a square-built village at the foot of a
rocky hill, and close to the river. Farther on, and
still near the Kizil-Irmak, we passed the ruins of an
ancient church and convent, where a warm spring
bubbles out of the rock, and a little later saw the
remains of an Armenian church.
I had ridden for nine hours on this day, exposed to the keenest cold, and supper and the shelter of a Ouydoo. warm house at the village of Guydoo were there- fore more than usually welcome. My attention was attracted by a flight of wild ducks near the village, and on going out with my gun, I ascertained that they re- A warn sorted to this spot on account of a warm spring, which '^"°^* rushes out of the ground in sufficient volume to form quite a stream as it enters the Kizil-Irmak. The ducks were luxuriating in this tepid water, and though disturbed by my presence, they continued circling round and round this attractive spot, until, satiated with sport, I left them and resumed my journey, and we reached SiYM. Sivds the same afternoon. The central position of this place creates a most active trade — ^in silk, cotton, wool, grain, &c. : the bazaars present such a lively busthng scene, as might be expected in a focus of various lines of commerce, which would be greatly augmented by the extension of these lines to India.
Sivas (or Suas)* occupies the banks of the principal
• Once Cahira, and afterwards Sevastia. (Pliny, lib. vi. cap. 4.)
DESCRIPTION OF SIVASL 181
affluent of the Kizil-Imak, and the city stands ahnost chap.
VII
in the centre of the extensive plain, which stretches for — r-^
some distance to the ENR and WNW. of this part of ancient Cappadocia. It contains two castles, built on a hill within its precincts and 3,000 Turkish and 1,000 Armenian houses — ^which are by no means all of the general flat-roofed construction, but inter- mingled with pent-roofed dwellings and numerous small gardens, khans, baths, and mosques. There are nearly a hundred of the latter, many of them very handsome buildings, in the best style of Arabian and Persian architecture, and the minarehs attached to some of them are remarkably light and elegant
Leaving Sivas, we crossed the Kizil-Irmak by a . bridge of seventeen arches, and passed through a level and cultivated coimtry, dotted with villages at short distances apart, to our halting-place at Hanna, an incon- Hanna siderable Turkish village. Our attention was attracted by numbers of small mounds surroimding the village, which we found to be heaps of grain thatched with straw and covered with earth, as a protection against the severe cold of this climate. At our next stopping- place (Karagoon), we found these grain and fodder stores heaped on the rooft of the houses.
From Karagoon we proceeded to Pallas, a little place containing about ninety families, whom we found in a very excited state, quite unlike the usual placid demeanour of a Turkish community, which was ac- counted for by the rejoicings attendant on a wedding. Old and young had turned out for the festivities; Rejoicings the latter were dancing, or rather walking^ round a ding. pole — one of the party carrying a large triangular flag,
K 2
i
132 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, and beating an immense drum to keep the children
^ — r-^ in time. The rest of the merrymakers consisted partly
of women, who escaped hurriedly on our appearance,
leaving their husbands to receive us, which they did
with much friendUness.
Next day, our course lay at one time along the border of an extensive lake, at another through a wild basaltic tract, with an occasional village, succeeded by several small towns — harbingers of the great city we were now approaching, and which came in sight at the base of the mountain, as we rounded the gigantic Agrish Tagh. I had looked forward with much Kaisitri- interest to a visit to Kaisariyeh. Its position in the popnkton. ccutrc of Asiatic Turkey, and its prominence in past history, had given it great importance in my anticipa- tions, which were, however, in one respect grievously disappointed, since Kaisariyeh, which at the height of its grandeur contained a population of 400,000 in- habitants, is now reduced to some 6,000 Turkish, 1,400 Armenian, and 600 Gh^eek houses, one-fourth of which are tenantless. It occupies part of the plain to the south-west of the great mountain, and contains an extensive castle, several fine mosques and bazaars, but all showing symptoms of decay. Some ruins, to the eastward of the dty, mark the site of Ccesarea,* once Mazaca or Mosoch.f The lofty mountain ad- joining this locaUty has a prominent place in the account of the march of the Assyrian forces fix)m Nineveh to Jerusalem, so graphically brought before us in the apocryphal Book of Judith.:}:
* Strabo, lib. xii. p. 638. t Josephus^ book i. cap. 6. X Judith, ii. 11, 17.
TAUBUS RANGE AND GURUN. 133
The remains near Kaisariyeh are chiefly sepulchral, chap. belonging to the time of the Bomans. Some miles ^ ^!^-> from the town a column marks the spot where the great battle took place between the Bomans and the Persian monarch Shapur ; while other remains enable us to determine the site of the ancient capital of the territory, the name of which was changed by Tiberiu^ from Csesarea to Mazaca, as a punishment to the people for throwing down the statue of Jupiter Apollo.
From Kafsariyeh we retraced our route as far as Pallas. Thence, four days' riding in a south- 'PbXLm. westerly direction, through cultivated valleys and numerous villages, brought us to the foot of the Great Taurus range, ascending which we reached the mountain-town of Gurun, which occupies a singular Gurun. position. A castle, now in ruins, stands in the centre of the town, commanding a view of the fertile valley below, which extends both eastward and westward. There are also the remains of what appears to have been an amphitheatre, partially covering a conical hill which has an elevation of about 150 feet. The town consists of 2,000 houses, built round these two pro- minent objects, and its importance is chiefly due to its position at the intersection of various routes leading to and from the shores of the Mediterranean.
I had some difficulty in inducing my catergee (muleteer) to continue the journey beyond this point ; but having overcome his reluctance to proceed, we descended from Gurun to the Gurun Su, taking a south-westerly direction, and passing through a basaltic tract of country to the Ova-el-Bostan. This is a Ei-Bostan. fertile tract, extending from 15 to 18 miles NE. and
134 NARiiATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. SW., and again from 10 to 13 miles SE. by NW. — ^ — r-^ supporting several villages, some of them of consider- able size. At the extremity of this plain we entered the town of El-Bostan, which stands partly on the plain, partly on the slope of the mountain by which it is bounded, and is washed by the Jahet Su, which is cele- brated for the abundance of fish found in its waters. El-Bostan possesses one large mosque, having a cupola covered with copper, and five smaller ones, each with a wooden minareh. The houses are of day, with flat roofs, and open fronts of light and graceful architecture. We found but few ancient remains, some of which were inscribed with Cufic characters, and were sur- prised to see some gulls sailing over the plain, though so distant from the sea.
Another day's journey brought us to the village and pass of Casterman, nearly at the summit of this part of the Taurus, whence descending in a south- westerly direction along a rocky valley, we reached jeiiag* our intended restingplace, the village of Jellage. Here we met with a most inhospitable reception, and things looked so impleasant that we had to resort to defensive preparations, after closing our door as securely as we could. We managed to get off safely the next morning, notwithstanding a great manifestation of hostile feeling from the inhabi- tants of this Kurdish hamlet, and rode on through stunted oaks and cedars, and strikingly wild scenery, until we reached the crest of this part of the Taurus range, which rises to about 1,800 feet. Thence a succession of deep valleys brought us to the base of the Zeitoum range, which has an elevation of 8,000 feet ;
Tillage.
AOHR-TAOH AND MABASH. 135
and continuing on for some little time along a hog's- ohap. back, we descended the momitain, by a zigzag course, — r-^ through richly-wooded and very beautiful scenery, reaching AK-Shehr in the afternoon.
Here we were received by the lord of the valley in his castellated dwelling, though with very doubtfid hospitality. We found him reposing under his spacious verandah, and this being the Mohammedan fast the Bei, Hajji Ismael Agha indulged his appetite two or three times during the evening, by way of preparation for the next day's abstinence. But our fare was less abundant, and seemed to have reference to remuneration rather than to hospitality, which necessarily lessened our inclination to be liberal. On leaving the next day, the Bei supphed us with an escort to ensure our safety, and we followed the course of the Jeihan Su, here quite a Jeihan sa. fine river — retracing part of the previous day's journey, and ascending the mountain through woods of pines, oaks, cedars, and wild vines. On rounding a projecting shoulder of the mountain, we entered a narrow rocky pass, where we most inopportunely encountered a caravan of laden mules and horses, which we did not get through without serious difficulty. A steep valley succeeded — ^then a plain fix)m which we ascended to the town of Marash, which occupies three remarkable Marash projecting shoulders, about halfway up the slope of the mines, lofty Aghr-Tagh. On the centre shoulder stands the castle, while the town is built on the other two as well as in the intervening valleys, which are connected by bridges. There are twenty-five mosques, and about 3,500 clay-built houses in the town, which overlooks a rich plain, 36 miles long by 10 wide, producing fine
136 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, tobacco, abundant grain-crops, and a large supply of •> > '-^ timber. There are extensive mines of iron of most excellent quality in the neighbourhood, some of plum- bago* also, and — what is more rare — one of native steel.
AintAb. From Marash we proceeded to Aintab, passing
through a pastoral tract of country occupied by the black tents of the Kurds. The Castle of Aintab stands in a commanding position, on the summit of a round elevated hill, at the base of which lies the town, which is well-built, and has several fine mosques, baths, and about 8,000 Turkish and 500 Armenian houses, almost all of stone. A calico manufactory exists here, and its communication with Aleppo, Orfah, and Mar- ash, renders Aintab a place of considerable commercial importance.
Aleppo Aleppo was my next destination, whence I hoped to
to Bir. reach the Euphrates near Beles. But the dread of the Arabs made it almost impossible to procure guides and animals to go thither, and I was reluctantly obliged to take the route of Bir. This, as the caravan line to Upper Mesopotamia, is better known than that by Beles ; and while engaging my horses, and making my preparations, I was so fortunate as to fall in with Mon-
vincint sicur Vinciut Germain, an Aleppine, then employed as assistant-engineer by the French Consul. This gentle- man had — partly from information obtained from others, partly from his own local knowledge — ^laid down a map of the country between Aleppo and the sea, and also for some distance to the east of the city. Finding his
* We obtained a considerable supply of this material when putting together the ' Euphrates ' and ' Tigris ^ steamers, in 1836.
BUM KALEH. 137
acquaintance with the features of the country hkely to chap. be of service to my immediate and future objects, I ^ — r-^
made a contingent arrangement for his employment, in case the proposed route through Northern Syria should eventually be carried out*
I devoted a good deal of attention to the commerce Mr. Lang- and advantages of Aleppo, and left it on February 26, accompanied by the late Mr. Eichard Langton, who was anxious to extend his travels towards Orfah and the Upper Euphrates. Three days' journey by the Eiyer Sajour brought us to the castellated work from which the name of Eum Kaleh is derived, which Rum
. Kaleh.
occupies the summit of an elevated hmestone hill, overhanging the banks of the river. This hill is again washed, on its southern side, by a copious affluent of the main stream coming from the west, which in the latter part of its coiu^ flows through a rocky valley. In the angle thus formed stands the little town of Eum Ealeh, consisting of about 900 poor houses ; but the command of this passage into Mesopotamia gives con- siderable importance to this place and its castle.
Eesuming our journey near the left side of the river, which was still deep and broad, we passed successively the villages of ICafr-Beg, Karamizo, and Argur. Near RemainB, the latter, which stands on a low round hill, are an arti- aSSc-^ ^ fidal mound, and many scattered remains of sculptures, among which there were two large sarcophagi, despoiled of their lids, but having a portion of stone left at the extremity, to serve as a pillow for the head. In this immediate vicinity were three cisterns hewn out of the rock, and we found many other proofs that we stood on the site of an ancient city — possibly that of the
muBia.
138
NABRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPBDITIOX.
X3HAP. Anthemusia of Pliny.* We examined several most in-
VII
^ — .-^ teresting rock sepulchres ; they were destitute of human Excavated remains, but were otherwise quite perfect. Fig. 1
tombs near , , * o
Anthe- gives an outline of the groimd-plan of one of these structures, which has the form of a cross. Fig. 2 is a section along the dotted line, c D of fig. 1, giving an ele- vation of this portion of the sepulchre. Again, fig. 3 is
6 f â– ;.
Fig. 4.
â– mr
an elevation of the two recesses for bodies, corre- sponding to the dotted hue E F. Fig. 4 represents the exterior i)art of the entrance, which is hewn out of the
• Lib. V. cap. 24.
THE EUPHRATES AT SAMSAT. 139
solid rock,* and a circular stone is made to roll up and chap. down from the doorway between two grooves, and is
thus moved from its position at c, to that of the dotted fl^^f line above M, where, by means of a chain, it is secured to the rock.
The lateness of the hour, and the distance to our On to proposed halting-place, prevented any moi*e minute examination either of these or of some other remains, which we met with on our way to Samsat, or Sameisat, which we were anxious to see. With daylight, how- ever, we found only a square and lofty mound, with some scattered fragments of columns and other portions of buildings remaining — the sole ruins of this once important place. Its site is a remarkable one, for the Bend at Euphrates here makes that great bend which is specially noticed by Pliny .f From this point we changed the direction of our route, and, leaving the river, passed through the two considerable villages of Ordel, and crossing some grassy downs we reached Orfiah.
To this place I had looked forward with much Orfah. interest Its history as a royal dty, its much earlier connection with Job and Abraham, and its present as well as future importance with regard to trade (of which its position has at all times made it an em- porium), naturally gave it great consequence in my eyes. Its appearance, as the traveller approaches, is most picturesque. It occupies the intervening valley, as well as the slopes of two hills, which jut out from the range of neighbouring moimtains. On their southern side is the castle, which, as well as the town itself, is defended by high walls flanked by square towers. The
♦ St. Matthew, xxvii. 60 j St. Mark, xv. 46. t Lib. v^ cap. 24.
(
140 NABRATIVB OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, city contains 900 Turkish, 800 Annenian, and 200
' — r-^ Syrian houses, all well-built — also numerous baths, and about twenty mosques, one of which is a remarkably handsome building, with two large ponds attached to it full of sacred fish.
Kihaor The exteusive excavations in the vicinity of the
town are supposed to be the remains of ancient Riha or Edessa, and on the adjoining hill are the scattered ruins of a building attributed to Nimrud.
It had been our intention to proceed from Orfah to Jaber Castle, with a view to examine that part of the Euphrates ; but so many difficulties were made by our people, and so much hostihty evinced by the natives, that prudence obliged us to relinquish our intention,
Return to and Mr. Langton and myself hastened back to Aleppo, hoping to find the means of resuming our examination of the river from thence. Fear of the Arabs, however, met us on all sides, and compelled us eventually to give up our project, and satisfy ourselves with such information as could be obtained at Aleppo. In the event of carrying out a route to India by the Euphrates, Aleppo would again become, as it was in olden times, the central point of commimication with Europe, and, as a necessary consequence, its port became an object of especial consideration.
Bay of The Bay of Antioch, as Napoleon's expected place
of disembarkation on his contemplated expedition to India, was the first part of the coast to be examined ; the Bay of Scanderoon was the second. To both of these points I gave particular attention, and also took into consideration the possibihty of restoring the
l^ieucia.^ aucieut port of Seleucia; and then journeyed onwards
THE PROPOSED UNB TO INDIA. 141
through Asia Minor, still accompanied by my late chap. fiiend, Mr. Langton. â– - , --
On my return to Constantinople, I found that Sir ^'^"^ ^ Eobert Gordon had been succeeded by Sir Stratford tinopie. Canning as ambassador to the Porte ; and, happily for me, his interest in the proposed line to India equalled that of his predecessor, who had taken the first steps in its consideration ; and the influence of both ambassadors was ably and warmly seconded at home by the late Eight Hon. John Sullivan, whose exertions led eventually to the advocacy of the late Bang, and to the train of events to be narrated in the succeeding pages.
i
142 NABRATIVB OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAPTEE Vm.
PROGRESS OF THE STEAM QUESTION — INTERVIEW WITH HIS HAJEfflT KING WILLIAM IV., REGARDING THE TWO PROPOSITIONS OF COM- MUNICATION WITH INDU — A COMMITTBB OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS EXAMINES THE QUESTION, AND VOTES £20,000 FOR AN EXPERIMENT BT THE EUPHRATES.
CHAP. During the period occupied by the journeys and ex- ^ — r-^ plorations in Asiatic Turkey, Syria, Arabia, and Persia, of which I have given some account in the preceding chapters — that is to say, during 1829-30-31 and 32 — I had from time to time sent home reports to Govern- ment of the results of my observations, more especially as regarded the different lines of communication between England and India. 1 do not propose to lay these reports before the reader— enough has been said of the countries and people through which I passed during these investigations. But I refer to these reports, because to them may possibly be attributed the growing interest in the question of the Euphrates hne stmm to the East, of which I became more fiilly aware on ^Son^th ™y return home in 1832, and which eventuated in the ^°^'** appointment of the Steam Committee of the House of Commons, which met in June 1834 to consider the question of alternate lines of communication with India, through Egypt in the one case, and Arabia in the other. Still, although the actual necessity of one or both of these hues was very generally felt, the all-
PBOGBESS OF THE STEAM QUESTION. 143
absorbing question of Parliamentary Eeform would chap. have made it almost impossible to secure public atten- ■■> '-- tion to such an undertaking at this period, had it not received the support of several influential advocates. My observations on the Egyptian and Arabian lines of route, and the map which I had laid down of the Eiver Euphrates, on a scale of 2 inches to a mile, attracted the attention of the late Sir Augustus Fraser, as well as that of Sir Alexander Dickson, Deputy Adjutant- General Eoyal Artillery. They also came under the notice of the Earl of Munster and Lord Beresford, and, which was of more consequence, under that of Sir James Kempt, G.C.B., then Master-General of the Ordnance. Sir James did not confine himself to ordi- nary official forms, for, after giving the subject of the overland route his personal consideration, he thought it incumbent upon him, as a matter of duty, to bring the question of steam communication before the late King. Although this question was then quite in its infancy, the necessity as well as the practicability of more rapid communication with India at once attracted His Majesty's special attention, and that also of many influential individuals, amongst whom were the late Sir Eobert Inghs, Lord Holland, Sir John Barrow, Advocates Sir John and Sir Pulteney Malcolm, General Sir Euphrates Willoughby Gordon, Lord Hill, and Lord Palmerston. *°** Early in 1833, 1 was induced by the late Mr. Peacock, of the India House, to print my memoir on the Euphrates route with its map, in order to make the subject more widely known, and it was privately circulated early in February of that year. This step gained several fresh advocates to the cause, one of
144 NABBATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, the most valuable of whom was the late Eight Hon.
VIII. ^
John Sullivan, who, in bringing the ripened judgment of a green old age to the consideration of the over- land route, renewed the energies of his early hfe, when, after travelling through Asia Minor to Mesopotamia, he descended the river Tigris on a raft, supported on inflated skins, and having reached India in 1782, to fill a high civil appointment, he had ever since felt and evinced the greatest interest in the route through Arabia, which he regarded as one very important means of giving security to the Une of the Indus. At a later period only, I learnt that Mr. Sullivan had not only been moving Lords Lansdowne, Palmerston, and Goderich on this subject, but privately, through Sir Herbert Taylor, had been again drawing the King's attention to the question, for whidi His Majesty had been already prepared by the Master-General of the Ordnance. I was, however, quite ignorant of this friendly advocacy, and it was therefore a surprise to Summoned mc to rcccivc the King's commands to attend at St.
to attend , . i i
the King. James 8 vnth the maps and papers relating to the Euphrates.
This interview was a memorable one to me in many ways, and I trust that its results may yet bear fruit for our country. It took place on April 16, 1833, and I well remember that when on my way to the palace, I met my friend Sir William Knighton, who on hearing of the immediate object of my attendance, gave me a hint to be prepared to answer any questions which the King might put vrithout hesitation. * For,' added Sir William, * he will at once seize upon the leading points, which you should make quite clear and very
THE KINO AND THE EUPHRATES QUESTION. 145
prominent ; and if you do this, His Majesty will never chap. forget their bearings.' "^ — r-^
On being admitted to the King's presence, I naturally left the great map and papers outside, but they were at once asked for. I was desired to open them. * Let us begin,' said His Majesty, most graciously, * by getting a general idea of the coimtries you visited ;' and having opened his own atlas for this purpose, he went into all the details as well as the relative advantages of both the routes.
Then tracing on the index map the two competing Reiatire lines to Bombay, I begged His Majesty to observe that tages of one of these lines follows the direct and natural course routes, of the Euphrates and Persian Gulf — ^the shortest line, in fact, between London and Bombay — whereas the other, by following the Bed Sea, diverges for a distance of 1,230 miles, viz., from the entrance of the Bed Sea to that of the Persian Gulf ; adding that the shorter dis- tance to India was not the only advantage of the Arabian over the African route, since in the one case the wind and sea are right ahead for a distance of 2,014 miles during the monsoon, whereas they are abeam at the same season of the year when steaming towards the Euphrates. I had scarcely concluded these re- marks when the King said, with much animation, ' I am a sailor, and these points are, in my opinion, quite conclusive.'
His Majesty now alluded to the serious apprehension Move- caused by the presence of the Bussian fleet at Constan- Ruwia. tinople, as well as by the gradual advance of that Power towards the Indus, and the consequent necessity of strengthening Persia ; adding, that as an additional
L
/
146 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, security to our position it might be advisable to carry — r-^ out my suggestion by adding a steam flotilla to the Bombay Marine.*
Towards the end of this interview the King enquired how I came to be employed, which being answered, I added that I had given up the maps as well as the whole of the information I had then collected to the Government. ' That is quite right,' observed His Ma- jesty ; adding, * But how have you been received? and How tho what interest have my Ministers taken in the question wa^ viewed jo^ ^avc brought forward ? ' I replied that much in- tL^*"^^ terest about steam had been expressed by Lords Lans- downe and Eipon, as well as by Mr. Grant, but that the all-important question of a rapid communication with India did not advance.
His Majesty observed that people sometimes hesitate till the opportunity is lost, but that he would take care to urge the matter onwards ; adding, that I was to make known to him from time to time, through Sir Herbert Taylor, what was doing, that he might give it furtherance if necessary.
He then assisted me in folding up the large maps,
reiterating his approbation and interest in what had been
done ; and an interview of more than an hour terminated
Royal with the confident expectation on my part that the Royal
Buppo . gyppQi-i; i-hus promised would be continued until the
Overland Route should be fairly established.
Owing to its political bearings, it had been arranged that the steam question should come under the special consideration of some members of the Cabinet. It was
♦ * Minutes of Evidence of the Select Committee, &c., on Steam Navi- gfttion to India/ p. 62.— July 14, 1834.
THE RUSSIANS AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 147
subsequently settled that Lord Lanadowne should bring chap.
VIII
the subject of overland communications with India be- ^ — r-^
fore the Lords, and that Mr. Grant should do the same Proposed
vot© of
in the Commons ; whilst occasional articles in the TimeSj Pariia- Standard^ and other papers, showed that the subject was "^*° attracting public attention, notwithstanding the serious and sometimes, it almost seemed, insuperable difficulties in its way, one of which was the aggressive power of Bussia in the East.
During this summer she had sent a fleet and army to Constantinople, and the startling fact that Turkey was almost in the power of the Czar naturally caused much uneasiness : so much so, indeed, that towards the close of 1833 it was generally believed that the Cabinet was occupied with the momentous consideration of what could and ought to be done by Great Britain to extri- cate the Sultan from his actual state of thraldom.
This untoward position of pubHc affairs necessarily put the Euphrates enterprise aside for tlie moment — whilst I endeavoured to turn my local knowledge to some account by showing that we had ample means at command of forcing the Dardanelles, and of thus rescu- Projected ing Turkey from her coming subjection to the Czar. Li thi^ r^r-^ the early part of February, I submitted to Government, ^*°®^^*^''* through Sir Kobert Gordon, the project of a coup-de- main against the Dardanelles, which, as I afterwards learnt from Sir Herbert Taylor, was submitted to the King. A more passive course, however, appears to have been thought advisable.
The question of opening a communication with India was resumed in the early part of 1834, under the aus- pices of Lords Lansdowne and Ripon, with the co-opera-
L 2
148
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. VIII.
Committoe of the House of Commons on the Euphrates,
and pro- ceedings.
Members of the Com- mittee.
tion of Mr. Grant, who had asked Lord Althorp, then Prime Minister, to provide the necessary funds for an experimental expedition. But a few days after this pro- posal had been made, I had the serious disappointment of learning, privately^ that as the Cabinet was divided upon the Euphrates question, it would become necessary for the satisfaction of its supporters to appeal to Parlia- ment. In consequence of this determination a Com- mittee of the House of Commons met on Jime 9, with Mr. Grant as chairman, and a most influen- tial body of members, many of whom had sought this opportunity of promoting an undertaking now so much desired by the pubUc at large.*
The first examination was that of Mr. Peacock, who had already done much to prepare the way for steam- communication with India.
Mine followed ; and I commenced by describing at some length tlie three principal routes to and from India, with many particulars bearing upon these in connection with that country.
The Committee went most carefully and fiilly into the questions of the practical working of these routes, as well as of the general capabilities of steam-vesseli^ and their adaptation to distant sea-voyages. Eiver-naviga- tion was also a good deal considered, and other matters bearing upon steam- vessels at large.f
Several Resolutions were adopted, one of which was
* Sir James Graham, Sir Robert Peel, Sir Robert Inglifli Viscoimt SaDdon, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Robert Grant, Mr. Hume, Mr. Stuart Mac- kenzie, Admiral Adam, Captain Elliot, Sir Robert Gordon, Mr. Cutler Fergusson, Mr. Lyall, Mr. Young, Mr. Shiel, Colonel Evans, Mr. Buddng- bam, Mr. Powlett Thomson, Mr. Todd, Mr. Rumbold, Mr. Blake of Galway, Mr. Martin of Sligo, and Mr. Strutt
t * Report on Steam Navigation to India,' July 14, 1884.
SELECTION OF THE OOMHANDEB. 149
that steam navigation might be carried on during eight chap. months in the year between Bombay and Suez — the — .-^ months of June, July, August, and September being left for the results of further experience.
The twelfth and concluding Eesolution recommended 20.000/. to a grant of 20,000Z. for an experiment to be made for Euphrates! communication with India by the Euphrates with the least possible delay.
Funds being thus made available, the management of the operative part became the next consideration. The late Mr. Cabell, of the India Board, who had al- ready taken a very active part in the question, sounded me, from Mr. Grant, as to my readiness to undertake the management of the intended Expedition — my doing so being, in his opinion, essential to its success. The same question was put to me by Mr. Grant himself a few days later. I replied that, owing to a promise made to my family, I was not at hberty to accept the charge, unless a more competent individual could not be found — such as Colonel Colebroke or Dr. Colqu- houn, who were eminently qualified for this task. A few days afterwards Mr. Grant sent for me, and made known to me that as Colonel Colebroke had, after some consideration, declined the position, he now looked to me to take charge of the enterprise. I at once ex- pressed my readiness to do my best, if the King should The King be pleased to command my services, and it so happened my ser- that His Majesty gave directions to that effect personally the same afternoon.
vices.
i
15U NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION'.
CHAPTEE IX.
ENTRUSTED WITH THE COMMAND OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION — AGAIN COMMANDED TO ATTEND THE KING — DIFFICULTIES OF THE EX- PEDITION— PREPARATIONS AT LIVERPOOL — THE ' GEORGE CANNING* CHARTERED — MR. FITZJAME8 INTREPIDLY SAVES A DROWNING TIDE- WAITER — VOYAGE TO MALTA — VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF STBU — OPPO- SITION OF THE PACHA OF EGYPT — LANDING OP THE EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Bearing in mind the King's permission to communicate — * — ' with him from time to time, I made known to His Majesty, through Sir Herbert Taylor, that it had been of^thT*"^ settled that I was to conduct the Expedition ; and an Expedi- immediate reply not only signified the King's entire approbation, but also his readiness to move the Ord- nance and other departments to give the necessary assistance in carrying out all preparations for the imdertaking.
Had I not received this very unexpected encourage- ment, the difficulties I met with might have seemed almost insiu-mountable ; but with the warm support of our gracious Sovereign, the task was rendered com- paratively easy. A detailed list of our requirements Further- was, by Command of His Majesty, sent to the various cwTnance* departments ; and the result was that everything was depa^ ^^ from time to time most willingly supplied by each. menu. rj\^^ stcamcrs, ou which as a matter of course the
other preparations mainly depended, were forthwith put in hand. They were the fourth and fifth of this then novel class of vessel, which has rendered such services of late years in the Chinese and Indian waters.
EQUIPMENTS AND PBEPA&ATIONS. 151
The moderately short delay necessary for the pre- chap. paration of these vessels, with their water-tight com- ^ — . — ' partments and other fitments, in Messrs. Lairds' yard, pr«pMa- as well as the construction of the engines, which were objecu. got ready simultaneously in another establishment, still gave me sufficient time to arrange their armament and equipments, and to select officers and men, as well as engineers, boiler-makers, and other skilled workmen, whose services were indispensable in carrying out this peculiar undertaking, the leading objects of which embraced : —
1st, The conveyance of the materials for the two steam-vessels to the coast of Syria, and the process of landing them there.
2ndly, The means of transporting the boilers, en- gines, and other equipments, from the seacoast to the banks of the Euphrates, a distance of 137 miles.
3rdly, To prepare temporary docks and slips, &c., in order to set up and float the vessels.
4thly, To survey the seacoast, the line across Northern Syria, and eventually the Elvers Euphrates, Tigris, and Karun.
The funds — ^which in a popular government occupy Funds. too much attention, and are rarely obtained without much difficulty — were chiefly supplied by the Treasury ; and on this department I was authorised to draw for the approved wants of the Expedition. The East ^ India Company was, however, to contribute 5000/.,* and to afford some other assistance also — especially by giving the services of Lieutenant Henry Blosse Lynch, f
* Page 7 of Papers ordered to be printed by the House of LordS| February 28, 1838. t Now Captain H. B. Lynch, C.B., K.L.S.
152 .NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, of the Indian Navy, and subsequently those of Lieu- ' — . — ' tenant R B. Lynch, of the 2l8t Bengal Infantry.
Officers The Admu-alty furnished four officers — namely,
from the Lieutenant R. Cleaveland, Messrs. Charlewood,* Eden,f
^artaienta. and Fitzjame8,J of the Eoyal Navy — in addition to
allotting a steamer to hasten the voyage to the coast
of Syria.
The Commander-in-Chief gave us the valuable assist- ance of the late General Estcourt,§ then a Captain of the 43rd Light Infantry, to carry on the survey. The Trinity House suppUed powerful reflectors, to inetni- facilitate the navigation by night ; instruments were selected and other assistance given by the Boyal Ob- servatory at Greenwich ; and in connection with this branch the late Eev. R. Sheepshanks came forward in the handsomest manner, not only to give instruction and assistance to our astronomer, the late Lieutenant Murphy, but also to make arrangements to enable him to determine the latitudes and longitudes as the basis of the intended maps. But besides obtaining the ser- vices of this officer, it became necessary to draw very largely on the kindness of the Master-General, Sir James Further- Kempt, G.C.B., and the Board of Ordnance also; for, in o^nanco^ addition to myself, Lieutenant Murphy of the Eoyal mXtf^ Engineers, Lieutenant Cockbuni of the Eoyal Artillery, and two medical men. Doctor and Mr. A. Staunton, a number of skilled artisans were carefully selected from the Eoyal Artillery and Eoyal Engineers, in order to
• Now Captain E. P. Charlewood, R.N.
t Now Captain H. Eden, R.N.
t Who periehed with Sir John Franklin.
§ The late Major-General Estcourt, Adjutant-General of the Forces in the Crimea.
ABMAHENT OF THE EXPEDITION. 15S
lessen the difficulties of providing for this service, chap. Besides officers and men, an extensive selection of ^ — < — ' goods, partly for presents to the Arabs, but principally to facilitate commercial dealings with them, was kindly supplied by this department ; also some waggons, har- ness, pontoons, and other materials connected with the transport of the steamers, and the armament at large, Equip-
t • -t . t •! . i»« Ti menta and
wnich not only comprised great guns of vanous cahbre, arma. some cohoms, Congreve rockets, and wall-pieces, but â„¢*" ' also an extensive supply of ammunition, as well as small arms.* The latter were partly supplied from the Tower, and partly prepared at Birmingham and Sheffield, where I had the valuable assistance of the late Mr. Lovell, who was sent with me by the Board of Ordnance to select arms, and give the necessary superintendence at the same time. A diving-bell, and miners' tools of various kinds, formed part of our equipment, and of course a supply of ordinary pro- visions, preserved meats, and wine.
Consentaneously with these matters of detail, the ofBccm officers and men were to be especiaUy prepared for g^^S their respective duties. Some of the former received c^mii^ instruction either on board the Flag-ship at Portsmouth, "*'^*^*- or from my late friend Professor Narrien, of the Eoyal Military Collie. Others had the assistance of Dr. Bobinson, at the Armagh Observatory, of Mr. Sheep- shanks, and that also of General Sabine, Dr. Lloyd, Admiral Beaufort, and Dr. Fox of Falmouth, for mag- netic dip.
* Ab detonating locks were at that time confined to sportsmen, onlj one-half of our muskets, &c. had this advantage, the remainder, by way of precaution, being flint-locks.
I
154 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EJCPBDITION.
CHAP. With a view to the preparation of the artillerymen,
IX.
' Sir James Kempt sanctioned my taking them to Bir- kenhead, where they not only had the advantage of receiving instruction in Mr. Laird's building yard, but also acquired practical knowledge by working the engines of the ferry-boats between Birkenhead and Liverpool. Four sappers were at the same time placed imder the late General Sir Charles Pasley, K.C.R, at Chatham, in order to be prepared not only for the duty of assistants in working the engines, but also for the management of a diving-bell, and instructed likewise in the method of blowing up rocks under water.
The preparations, therefore, were extennve, and commensurate with the important objects we had in view, which embraced : a survey of Northern Sjrria, with its coast-hne on one side and the Mesopotamian rivers on the other ; and a line of levels fix>m the sea to the Upper Euphrates, with reference to the practi- cability of opening, a canal for part of that distance. On making known to Sir Herbert Taylor that our The King preparations were almost completed, the King was my attend- plcascd to commaud my attendance at St. James's on November 19.
His Majesty at once entered upon the subject of steam-communication with Lidia by the Euphrates^ and went at some length into my recent proposal of opening simultaneously a second hne through Egypt. Then tiurning to that of Arabia, and the preparations for its establishment, as well as its political advantages, par- Capabiiity ticularly with reference to an invasion of Lidia, His officers. Majesty enquired into the character and qualifications of the various officers selected for the Expedition,
INTBEVIBW WITH THE KINO. 155
banning with Captain Efitcourt and Lieutenants Lynch, chap. Cleaveland, and Cockbum, and then into those of ' — r-^
Messrs, Charlewood, Fitzjames, Eden, Ainsworth, Thomson, and the two Stauntons ; also — though in a more general way — enquiring about the men for the Expedition. His Majesty having kindly expressed his approbation of all my arrangements, my own turn fol- lowed, and it became necessary to answer some of those questions which at times the late King was wpnt to put rather blxmtly. Having replied to enquiries about my birth, age, and services. His Majesty suddenly added, ' But who is your fitther ? ' — * Please Your Ma- Pereonai jesty, an American loyalist, who, at the head of an ©nquipi!^^ independent troop of dragoons, was twice wounded and ^^^ three times taken prisoner.' — * Well ? ' said the King, in a tone which unmistakably expressed What then ? — * Please Your Majesty, my father served under Lords Moira and Comwallis, and being with the latter when the capitulation of Charleston ended the war, he returned to L:^land almost penniless, his property on the Packolet Kiver, in South Carolina, having been con- fiscated. But all was not quite gone ; for, as a loyalist, he not only received a revenue appointment, but an additional compensation in consequence of the arrange- ments made by the Government of Your Majesty's father ; and it was owing to a kind recollection of the American campaigns by Lords Moira and Comwallis, that my brother and myself received appointments in the service.'
The King then reiterated his approbation of all the arrangements and preparations made for the Expedition, expressed a desire to have the first copy of the intended
156 NARBATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, maps, and, on taking leave, with much warmth gave
IX
^ — r-l— ' me his blessing.
Beparture Two OF three davs later Lieutenant Lynch left for the
of Liieut.
Lynch. coast of Syria, to get camels and make other arrange- ments for the reception of the Expedition ; but just as all seemed to be ready, unexpected changes occurred at home, giving rise to the most tiymg delays.
The Duke of Wellington took office at this moment, and on finding that there had been difficulties about brevet rank in my case, he at once ended what had hitherto been a vexed question by a Minute, stating * that Captain Chesney should go out as Colonel on a particular service, and leave the rest to His Majesty's Government,' which no doubt in part bore reference to my offer (which had been accepted) of serving with- out pay. My commission was made out accordingly. Another question, however, remained to be settled. I Martial had Urged the authority of martial law in case of ne- ^eS. " cessity, about which the popular feeling of the moment caused some difficulty. This was also at once decided by the Duke during my interview with him on Decem- ber 8, when he proposed to send the requisite commis- sion to meet the Expedition at Malta. A still more serious question next arose as to where the Expedition should land. Lord EUenborough, who was now at the Lord head of the Board of Control, sent for me with the inten- w^h tion of substituting Basrah for the coast of Syria. I stated SwraiiT various objections to such a change, amongst others my belief that an ascent instead of a descent of the Biver Euphrates would dispose the Arabs to be hostile to what would appear to them like an invasion of their country. His Lordship listened readily and discussed
OBDEBS TO BREAK UP THE EXPEDITION. 157
the bearings of the question without, however, quite chap.
IX.
giving way, but expressed his willingness to abide by - some practical opinion. I suggested that of the Hy- drographer of the Admiralty; ^d, as 'time and chance' would have it, Sir Francis Beaufort was actually in the waiting-room at the moment, and gave us his decided opinion * that the landing in Syria would be far more butdecidea speedy, and that if the Expedition proceeded by way of ^ Basrah, we should hear no more of the undertaking/ This was considered conclusive. The instruction of the men and the preparation of the two vessels were re- sumed next morning at Birkenhead, and continued until a fresh summons recalled me to London to receive orders to break up the Expedition altogether.
K the reader is becoming interested in me and my The aban- difficulties, he will go along with me in the singular con- theTxp^ catenation of circumstances which gave me encourage- pj»^/^ ment as I was on my way to the India Board next morning for this purpose.
Passing along St. James's Street, I met, in succession, precisely the three individuals who were able to give me the most important information relative to the prospects of the Expedition — and when it was a thou- sand to one against my meeting one after the other at this particular crisis. The first was Sir Bobert Gordon, who assured me that there must be some misimder- standing about the object of my recall, since the Duke of Wellington himself had told him that he had ex- plained to Lord Ellenborough, that as the Expedition had been organised in consequence of an Act of ParUa- ment it would not be right to break it up. This was cheering.
158 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. The second, and my particular ally on this occasion, ' — r-^— ' was the Turkish Ambassador, Namik Pacha. He in-
formed me that he had now received instructions to give the Expedition every fiirtherance. With my hopes thus raised, I met my third friend Mr. (now Sir John) McNeill, who, on hearing that it was in contemplation to break up the Expedition, took a letter from his pocket and read these conclusive words from Lord Ponsonby — then Ambassador at Constantinople — *I have carried the Euphrates question.' These bright hopes, however, only lasted until I reached the India Board, where Lord Ellenborough made known to me that the Expedition was to be broken up on account of the determination of the Porte to stop it. Without going into the rest of the information I had just received, I expressed my surprise as regarded the Porte, Namik Pacha having just told me that he was instructed to give us every furtherance. Lord Ellenborough reverted to his previous intention, and instructed me to prepare a statement to show wliat could best be done with our various materials, when breaking up the Expedition.
I accordingly placed a paper to this effect in his hands the next morning, when I had the agreeable imt after- surprisc of hearing from his Lordship : ' I find that given up. you wcrc quitc right about the Porte — therefore return to Liverpool at once, and get to sea as soon as you can.' Nor was any time lost in pushing on our preparations, in which I was zealously assisted by the oflBcers of the Expedition, as well as by Mr. Laird, who had already done his utmost to secure our success.
I had now entered on my duties as Commander of the Euphrates Expedition, and that the reader may
DUKE OP WELLINGTON'S INSTRUCTIONS. 159
understand the position in which I stood, I give the chap.
instructions under which I acted :-
IX.
INSTRUCTIONS.
No. 1. — Letter from the Duke of Wellington to the President of the Board of Control.
< Foreign Office, NoTember 28^ 1834.
* Sir, — I transmit to you herewith a Commission which Duke of the King has been graciously pleased to grant under His ton toT4e- Eoyal Sign Manual to Captain Chesney, K.A., consti- bo^ of tuting and appointing him, with the rank of Colonel ^°^^' on a particular service, to be a Commander of the Expedition about to be undertaken for the establish- ment of a communication between the Mediterranean
Sea and His Majesty's possessions in the East Indies by means of a steam-communication of the Kiver Eu- phrates, in conformity with the recommendation of the Committee of the House of Commons to that effect.
* I am at the same time commanded by the King to signify to you His Majesty's pleasure that an instruc- tion to the following effect be addressed to Colonel Chesney : —
' As the object of the House of Commons in appro- priating a large sum of money to be employed by His Majesty for the purposes of this Expedition was the promotion of the commerce and general interests of His Majesty's subjects, it will be Colonel Chesney's first duty to use every exertion to secure the success of the Expedition in the shortest possible time, and always to bear in mind the necessity of making his arrangements
160 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDmON.
CHAP, in such a manner as that their utility may be permanent ' — r-^— ' in the event of his success.
Duke of « Colonel Chesney will further be careful to maintain
Welling- ...
ton to the most perfect discipline and subordination amon£:
President i r "&
of Board of the persous who compose the Expedition. He will explain to them that His Majesty will view with the severest displeasure any conduct on their part calcu- lated to defeat the objects of the Expedition, whether arising from disagreement among themselves, or from an indifference to the habits and prejudices of the inhabitants of the country in which they are employed.
* It will be the duty of Colonel Chesney, and of every other individual, to conciliate to the utmost of his power the friendship and goodwill, not only of the authorities of the Grand Seignior, but of the different communities and tribes with whom he may have intercourse ; to abstain from all acts calculated to rouse the prejudices of the inhabitants ; to take no part in any distiurbances or quarrels which may exist among adverse tribes; and to avoid all acts of vio- lence, unless in the last extremity, for the preservation of the lives of His Majesty's subjects.
' In short. Colonel Chesney is always to bear in mind that the character of the Expedition is one of peace ; that it is undertaken with the permission of a friendly Power, without whose countenance and co-operation success cannot reasonably be expected; and that having for its object peacefid and beneficial interests, it is only to be conducted by peaceful means.
' Colonel Chesney will find His Majesty's Ambassador at the Porte instructed to afford him all possible assistance in the way of representation to the Turkish
LORD ELLBNBOROUGH'S INSTBUCTIONS. 161
Government on any occasion where the intervention chap.
^ IX.
of that Government with its authority is required. ' Colonel Chesney will communicate with His Majesty's Weiiing-
, . *oD to the
Ambassador on all such occasions, and pay to his Board of suggestions that attention which the position held by him at the Porte entitles him to expect.
* Lastly, Colonel Chesney wiU report from time to time, for the information of His Majesty's Govern- ment, the progress and prospects of the Expedition.
' I have, &c* (Signed) * Wellington.'
No. 2.
Letter from Lord Ellenborough to Colonel Chesney.
' India Board, January 24, 1835.
' Sir, — It does not appear necessaiy to give you any Lord further instructions for your general guidance in the ^^h to prosecution of the object of the Expedition under ^erae^ your command, beyond those which you have already received from the Duke of Wellington.
* The Minute of the Lords Commissioners of His Majesty's Treasury, which has been cx)mmunicated to you, points out the mode in which you are to draw for the necessary funds.
' You have been already informed that His Majesty's Government cannot apply to ParUament for any grant in addition to that of 20,000Z. which has been so libe- rally made, for the purpose of ascertaining the practi- cabihty of navigating the Euphrates.
' You will always bear in mind that that is the one object of your Expedition, and that scientific enquiries,
M
i
162 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, however interesting, are not to be allowed to detain EUen- * This cautioH is become the more necessary, since you
borough to , •/ «/
Colonel leave England at a period subsequent to that at which it was first calculated by you that you would arrive at the mouth of the Orontes.
* Should you arrive at Basrah by descending the Euphrates, you will consider yourself to be under the command of the Bombay Government You will immediately on your arrival repair and refit your steamboats, so as to be enabled to execute any orders you may receive.
* In the event of the season being favourable for the voyage to Bombay, you are at liberty to proceed at once to that port. This measure may possibly be ren- dered advisable by the consideration due to the healtli of the officers and men under your command.
' Such of the officers and men as the Bombay Govern- ment may not deem it necessary to retain for the pur- pose of repairing the steamboats, or of the further prosecution of the plan of navigating the Euphrates, will immediately proceed to England.
* Should the Bombay Government decide upon prose- cuting the navigation of the Euphrates, and the steam- boats be despatched for Basrali at an early period, that Government is empowered to afibrd, to such of the officers and men as may desire it, the opportunity of returning to England by the way of the Euphrates on the steamboats.
' In the event of your finding it impracticable to con- vey the steamboats fiom the mouth of the Orontes to tlie Euphrates, and of your abandoning the project of
STORES AND MATERIALS EMR/IRKED. 163
descending that river on that or any other ground, chap. you are at liberty to proceed with the steamboats to r-
Lord
Bombay. Eiien-
borongh to
' On your arrival at Bombay, you wiU place yoiu^elf Coionei under the orders of the Bombay Government.
' Immediately on your arrival on the Euphrates with the materials of the steamboats, you will communicate to the Bombay Government every particular you may think necessary, in order to enable them to judge of the probable time of yoiu* reaching Basrah, and to take measures for sending a steam-vessel, or a vessel of the Indian Navy, to meet you there, and convey instructions to you.
* I remain, &c. (Signed) ' Ellenborough.*
Owing to the novelty of the imdertaking, there was some difficulty and delay, even in the great port of Liverpool, in finding a vessel suitable for landing all our materials at the estuary of the Orontes. The ' George Canning ' was, however, soon put at our dis- posal, and as our engagement with her owners was to terminate as soon as the landing shoidd be completed, we endeavoured to ship our cargo in such a way as Embarka- would best facilitate this operation. Had this pre- materials,^ arrangement been dispensed with, our departure might have been slightly hastened ; but as it was, the frame- work of the two steamers and everything else were placed on board by February 1, 1835, in the prescribed order, with the exception of the contents of the maga- zine, which, as a matter of precaution, had been kept back till the last moment.
M 2
164 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
Whilst taking the ammunition on board a circum- stance occurred, which, as commemorating the gallant conduct of Mr. Fitzjames, deserves a comer in these pages. I give it in the words of his brother-ofl&cer, Mr. Charlewood : ' At daylight I commenced getting every- body and the remainder of the stock on board. The last thing was the powder, which came alongside in a Birkenhead steamer. I was in the magazine superin- tending the stowage, when the cry of " a man over- board" brought me on deck. It proved to be the tidewaiter in attendance, who, on stepping from the steamer to the ship, had slipped overboard between the Ktagames's two vcsscls. Fitzjamcs saw this, and was after him conduct, in an instant. Never have I seen anything done so nobly. The tide was running at the rate of six knots, with a strong breeze and piercing cold, yet Fitzjames managed to keep the man up (who could not swim) till they were picked up about half a mile astern. I never felt so happy as when we saw him once more safe on board. Most richly does he deserve promotion. It is blowing a gale from the south.'
Fitzjames's bravery was not overlooked. His com- panions in future difficulties and dangers hailed his gallant conduct as an omen of success, and it awakened also a warm and generous local feehng; for a deputation from the Town Council of Liver- pool came off to present him with a cup and the free- dom of the borough, which fact was, as a matter of duty on my part, made known to Lord EUenborough, and to the King also, through Sir Herbert Taylor.
Throughout the whole of our Expedition Fitzjames evinced this same gallant, unselfish, and joyous disposi-
SAILING OP THE EXPEDITION 165
tion, combined with untiring energy, which no doubt ^^^' sustained him to the last through the far greater perils ' — ' — ' and sufferings, ending in lingering death, which he en- coimtered and shared at a later period, with his noble friend and commander Sir John Franklin.
The number of our seamen being now complete. Departure the * Blue Peter ' was hoisted on February 4 ; but Lhr^pooi. continued gales detained us until the 10th, when, though the weather was still stormy, we put to sea, and having landed Mr. Charlewood when beating past Waterford, that he might cause our stores to be ready at the Cove of Cork, we arrived there during the night of the 13th.
A supply of provisions for two or three years was supplies at promptly furnished from the Government stores, and ^^.^^ we were joined by H.M/s steamer *Alban,' which, at the particular request of Lord Ellenborough, had been given by the Admiralty to expedite our voyage, and she towed us out of Cork Harbour on February 16 ; but our expectation of assistance from the *Alban' was but brief, for she cast us off after a few hours, and we saw nothing of her next morning, nor indeed during the whole of our voyage to Malta, where we arrived on March 12, having experienced very stormy weather in the Bay of Biscay.
At Malta it had been previously arranged that we were Men. &c. to receive boats suited for the landing in Syria, and at Maiu other requisites from the dockyard, as well as ordnance stores. But as we had arrived before our instructions, I feared that we should meet with delay. A sight of the Duke of Wellington's orders, however, secured the zealous co-operation of one of his distinguished officers,
166
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
Mr. C. A. Rassam joins us.
CHAP. Sir Frederick Ponsonby, the Governor of Malta.* He — • — ' took me to the Admiral at once, and put everything in train in the different departments, adding to his kind services the special request that a steamer should be or- dered to tow the 'George Canning' to the coast of Syria. Among our acquisitions at Malta was the important one of two flat-bottomed boats to facilitate our landing. We had also an unexpected addition to our party. Mr. Christian A. Eassam, a native of Mossiil, where he has now been Vice-Consul for many years, f enthusiastically quitted his position at the Malta College to be useful to the cause wliich he had much at heart — that of opening up his country to intercourse with Europe — and joined the Expedition as principal interpreter. Twelve Maltese were engaged under him to facilitate our communications with the Arabs and be generally useful. In eight days everything was ready, but the * Alban ' had not yet turned up ; and the Admiral, Sir Thomas Briggs, being without an available steamer, he kindly offered the * Columbine ' (sloop-of-war), as the best substitute he had it in his accompany power to givc. I gladly accepted it, and she proved of invaluable service. On making this known to her commander, Captain Henderson, over the quarantine railing, he called out, *My fore-yard is still ashore, but if you will sail at once, and bum a blue light
* The late Sir Frederick survived Waterloo almost miraculouslj. Being brought to the ground when leading his regiment by several desperate wounds, his body served as a parapet for one of the enemy's tirailleurs, who loaded and fired several times under this cover, saying a word or two occasionally in a cheerful tone. But at length the advance of our troops caused him to leave his cover, which he did, saying, * Je vaia te quitter, mon ami/ Sir Frederick remained for some time in his help- less position : at one time a passing artillery officer (whom he never met afterwards) gave him — ^what was then beyond all price — a little water, adding some cheering words at the same time.
t Since December, 1839.
Sloop * Colum- bine' to
us.
ARRTV'AL AT CYPKUS, 167
occasionally after ten o'clock, the " Columbine " shall chap.
be with you before morning.' We accordingly prepared to leave forthwith, inspirited by a most hearty farewell. The boats of the fleet were manned, and towed the Towed out
' ofValetta
* George Canning' out of the iimer liarbour of ValetUi Harboup. amidst animating cheers from the ramparts.
The wind was favourable, and by midnight our rockets and blue lights were answered by a gun, and the
* Columbine' was in company soon afterwards. We were taken in tow almost immediately, and this impor- tant aid was given most willingly tlu-oughout the voyage.
The weather continued favourable, giving us the Voyage
_ _, /»ii and ex6r*
opportumty of employing our tune usefully, as we dseofthe glided along in the sloop's wake. Besides ball-practice, sword-exercise, and the usual drills, which had been carried on during our voyage to Malta, such occupa- tions as the construction of canvas and other boats, and anything that seemed likely to turn to account in the future, kept us fully employed — in all which the 'Columbine's' carpenters lent their assistance.
Nine days of energetic occupation brought us to Cyprus. Cyprus, which, in accordance with the desire expressed by Admiral Beaufort, was to be connected by triangu- lations with the coast of Syria ; while the report that plague existed on the mainland was an additional reason for communicating with the island. Accordingly, we stood into the Bay of Larnica, where, to our great dis- appointment, we learnt from the quarantine boat, not only that the plague existed in the town, but also in some piag«e. parts of the country before us. As it was all-important to ascertain the true state of things with reference to this scourge, which might in fact have put an end to
i
168
NAERATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION".
Proceed in the Columbine to Beirut.
Approach to the Bay of Antioch.
our enterprise, I proceeded with Commander Hen- derson, in the * Columbine,' with all speed to Beirut, where her gig took me soon after dark within speaking distance of Mr. Chasseau, H.B.M/s Consul. His intelli- gence was on the whole satisfactory, for, although the plague existed elsewhere, I learnt that there was none on the banks of the Orontes, and I also ascertained that Lieutenant Lynch had made the necessary preparations at Suedia for the landing of the Expedition. Returning with this encouraging news, the * Columbine' again spread her canvas wings ; but the wind failed, and our progress was exceedingly slow. Therefore it was only on April 2 that we sighted the * George Canning,' then hull down. But the next morning we were ahead of her, with Jebel Akra (or Mount Cassius) before us.
It was an interesting moment, when with a fresh and fair breeze we rapidly approached our destination. The bald crest of the mountain (from which it derives its name of Akra, or Bald) left no doubt that the estuary of the Orontes would be found somewhere in its vicin- ity ; but the question was, on which side of the moun- tain ? The pilot of the ' Columbine,' a Greek, although specially chosen as knowing this part of the coast, admitted, just then only^ that he had never been in the Bay of Antioch ; in fact, there was but one individual present (myself) who had ever been in this neighbour- hood before, and that only by land. We continued our course, however, for some time, finding no bottom with 25 fathoms of line ; and as there was no appear- ance of the Eiver Orontes at the foot of the moun- tains stretching northward of Cassius, which we were then approaching, I continued to look out with doubt as well as anxiety, until all suspense was ended by a
SCENERY OP THE BAT OP ANTIOCH. 169
sight of the unmistakable landmark of the extensive chap. line of excavations behind the ruins of Seleucia. In less — ^ — '
than an hour from this time the * Columbine ' shortened ^^^^ '^ sail, and being now in 10 fathoms water, and suiBciently near to the shore, she tacked and stood towards the south side of the bay.
Although in a well-regulated man-of-war it is a brief operation to take in sail and pay out more cable, there was still ample time, while these orders were being executed, to look round and examine the magnificent scenery, which I had not previously seen from the water.
A glance at the shore showed us the estuary of the Appear- Orontes at the distance of a short two miles, the masts bay, &c. of some small vessels appearing above its banks. Else- where the bay, which is seven miles wide, is encircled by a mountain girdle of striking grandeur, varied here and there by spots of soft and most attractive scenery. Southward, a wall of rock rises from the water below the wooded sides and culminating bald peak of Mount Cassius, from which the outlying range of Jebel El- Akrab runs eastward at an elevation of 5,318 feet. Parallel to this bold range is the valley of the Orontes, with the hills of Antioch showing near its termination.
A little to the northward of the El-Akrab range appears Bin-Kiliseh (a thousand churches), and the ruins of the convent St. Simon Styhtes, standing amidst groves of arbutus and myrtles. More northward still, and forming the opposite horn of the Bay of Antioch, is Jebel Musa, a wooded and picturesque moxmtain, with the extensive cavern and excavations of Seleucia on its lower slope, which terminates this remarkable pano- rama.
i
NA8EATIVE OP THE EDPHEATES EXPEDITION.
I lost no time in landing near Suedia, but it was quite dark before we arrived ; and finding a good deal of surf on the beach, I was forced to give up my intention of communicating with lieutenant Lynch, and returned to pass the night in the ' George Canning,' imder the impression that all was now smooth. We were wholly iinpreparetl for the vexatious and almost insurmountable impediments wliich we subsequently encountered, but which were eventually overcome during the succeeding eleven months by the officers and men of the Euphrates Expedition.
We were all on deck by suarise tlie next morning chap. (April 4), gazing with delight and admiration at the ^ — . — - magnificent acene before us, of which the description at Antwch. the close of the preceding chapter can give but a faint idea. For grandeur, varied beauty, and extent, it could scarcely be surpassed. The ancient tunnel and rock-
^tk.
excavations of Seleucia were visible from our deck, as well as a small part of this once famous and extensive port ; but the httle town of Suedia, although scarcely a mile from the ship, is completely hidden in the dense mulberry plantations which surround it.
172 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. We did not, however, allow ourselves much time for
' the contemplation of the scenery around us. Lieutenant Cleaveland was sent on shore, and returned with a favourable account of the landing-place, accompanied by Yusuf Saba, Sheikh of Suedia, who brought us the unwelcome intelligence that no firman had been received requiring the local authorities to further the Expedi- tion, and that Lieutenant Lynch had in consequence discharged the camels which he had previously hired for the transport of our materials. This report caused us some uneasiness, but did not prevent us from making a Boats sent beginning by sending two boats, under command of
up thd
Orontes. Lieutenant Cleaveland, to explore the Orontes. He proceeded for fifteen miles up the river, which he found to be very rapid near its mouth, with a current of about four miles an hour, and an average breadth of 90 yards. At the termination of the VaUey of Suedia, the Orontes flows between steep and lofty mountains, tumbling over a rocky bottom, shallow in some places, and very unnavigable. The scenery is wild and very fine. The sides of the hills are covered by dehciously fragrant aromatic plants, while the Valley of Suedia is rich in mulberry-groves grown for the sake of the silk, which is made there in lai^e quantities.
Landing. On landing we carefully examined the country
i)iac6
selected, around the estuary of the Orontes, with reference to a healthy station for disembarkation ; and whilst occupied the next day in putting up a pair of shears at the land- ing-place we had selected, and in arranging landmarks, Mehemet &c., a letter from Lieutenant Lynch made known to draws his me the startling fact tliat Mehemet Ah had not only ?o^n^°° recently withdrawn the orders which had been given.
DIFFICULTIES OF THE EXPEDITION. 173
to afford every facility for the landing of our steamers, chap. but had actually forbidden the local authorities to give ' — « — ' us any assistance in transporting them to their desti- nation.
Such adverse circimistances seemed, at first sight, to Opposition
of the
put an end to all hopes of success. I had indeed fore- Pacha of seen that the Pacha of Egypt could not desire to see ^^^^^^ any obstacles placed in the way of his ambitious pro- jects by the opening of a highroad to India through his recently acquired territory, and I was therefore pre- pared, in some measure, for indirect opposition, but I had never supposed that he would venture to go so far as to oppose the British Government. But so it seemed to be, and an anxious consideration of the present dilemma suggested three courses, any one of which was open for selection.
The first of these alternatives — as the landing of our Choice of
difficulties.
materials had not been commenced — ^was to return to Malta, and wait there until Government could take some decided step. The second was to make prepara- tions to sail round Africa, and begin operations at Basrah. The third was to land the whole of the materials forth- with, and having shown, by the departure of the two vessels, that the enterprise would not be given up, to endeavour, by every means still available, to transport our steamers across the country so as to float them on the Eiver Euphrates.
Believing that the last course would have been most in accordance with the instructions of Government, if instructions could have been asked, and being also con- vinced that high ground would be taken at home without delay, I determined to adopt it as the line most befitting
174 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, a great nation. Expecting, at all events, to be able to • • • •
ir ' r' anticipate open opposition, it was at once arranged
ationto that OUT stoFCS should be landed with all possible
land the *â–
stores. despatch, and that the two vessels should then quit the coast of Syria. Oiu* work was, therefore, commenced next morning with hearty goodwill, in which Com- mander Henderson and the men and officers of the ' Columbine ' joined. Some of At dayhght on April 6, two officers and twenty-
bine's' offi- five men were landed from this ship, and whilst they
cers and . ^ x n . i
men wcrc prcparmg our encampment^ our two flat-boats,
with the ' Columbine's ' launch, pinnace, cutter, jolly- boat, and skiff, continued landing stores and materials throughout the day. To facilitate tliis operation, a hawser was carried from the shore over the bai', along which the boats passed into a small creek, which we had cut in order to land the heavy weights under a pair of shears. Favourable weather enabled us to do a good deal, both towards the landing and preparing the encampment, which advanced simulta- neously with the aid of the ' Columbine's ' officers and men.
Store and Their first object was to pitch a roomy store-tent by
other tents Pxi i. ii xit •!/»
pitched, means oi the spare booms and lower studding-sails oi the brig. A mess-tent, four marquees, and ten bell- tents for the men, were then set up— also the observatory tent, and a smaller one adjoining it for the telescopes, theodoKtes, and otlier instruments ; tlie whole of which, as well as the machinery about to be landed, were to A parapet havc the protection of an earthen parapet. In the camp. course of three or four days this work was constructed, having a fieldpiece at one angle, and other means of
EXAMINATION OF THE ORONTES. 175
defence. Our camp, to which we gave the name of chap. AmeUa Dep6t, was soon rendered defensible, and made — ^ — -
quite an imposing appearance.
On the following morning our labours were resumed Process of with increased faciUties. The short hne carried over the heavy the bar had been replaced by another of 1,200 yards ^^ in length, going the whole way to the 'George Canning.* This lessened the labour very much, for the heavily- laden boats were hauled along it to the land, and rowed back again to the vessel when discharged. During this day's work, which was productive of great results, Yusuf Saba came to me in a state of absolute consternation to ask for our firman, as, faihng such authority, he had been ordered to interdict our land- ing. Fortunately, the want of an interpreter at this moment prevented anything exphcit from passing between us, and we continued our exertions with, if possible, greater energy than before.
The examination of the Orontes, with reference to Examina- its faciUties for transport, was carried on at the same Orontes. time, but Lieutenant Cleaveland's report to me, on the extent to which the river might be made available, was not very promising.
On the evening of the 8th, Lieutenant Lynch arrived from Aleppo, and from his intelligence, as well as from letters just received from the Consul-General of Egypt (Ck)lonel Campbell), and from the Consul at Damascus (Mr. Farren), it was too clearly though indirectly implied that secret orders had been issued to stop the Expedition, instigated, as we felt but too sure, by Northern influence. Of these adverse intentions we soon had unpleasant proofs. I fortunately heard, the
17 G NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES ElOPEDITION.
CHAP, next mornincT, that the Mutselhm of Antioch had
X.
•5>
Visit from the Govor-
arrived at Suedia for the express purpose of stopping our proceedings, and I requested Captain Henderson
Soch^ ^^' ^^^ ^^y ^ receive him with a guard of marines, but to give him a salute of eight guns, and invite him to lunch. I anticipated what he had to say by making a strong remonstrance about the want of assistance rendered to us, adding that Captain Estcourt was then on liis way to Damascus,* in order to demand the requisite order for assistance from Sheriff Pacha ; adding that, in the meantime, the landing would be continued under the protection of the ' Columbine's' guns.
Having with manifest anxiety, and great reluctance,
agreed to await an answer to the letter now on its way
to Damascus, the MutseUim took his departure, after
having been shown every part of a British man-of-war.
The day after this visit (April 10) was marked by
Heavy the succcssful landing of one of the heaviest pieces of
landed. boilcr in one of our flat-boats, with a pontoon lashed
on each side of it to give it additional buoyancy as
well as stabihty, and also by the recovery of some of
the indispensable parts of the steamer's engines. A cask
containing the valves of both engines had broken its
Loss of slings on the previous day, and rolled to the bottom of
and its the rivcr, which was at this season exceedingly turbid.
recovoiy. r^Y^^ difficulty of finding and recovering the cask was
very great, but I fortunately recollected that my friend
Mr. Coulter had contrived an ingenious double cramp,
with the idea of raising stones from the bed of the
Euphrates, which I applied to the recovery of our lost
cask. This instrument resembled a pair of can-hooks. A
* See Appendix III. for Captain Estconrt's JournaL
I
II
/
SURVEY OF THE COAST. 177
diver went down, found tlie cask, and adjusted the chap.
cramp, which grasped it firmly ; the sHngs happily ^ bore the weight, and it was safely drawn up, to our great reUef, for the loss of the valves would have disabled both engines, and this under existing circum- stances would have been an irreparable misfortune to us. This difficult operation was effected by Mr. Charlewood.
At this period Lieutenant Murphy, accompanied by Snirey of Messrs. Ainsworth, Thompson, and A. Staunton, left ~«^" the camp to survey the coast between the Bay of Antioch and Lattaquia. They made a commencement by ascending Mount Cassius, through its wooded slopes to its bald peak, which they made their point of de- parture for the survey. Of course our proceedings did not fail to attract the attention of the Egyptian authorities, and several of the Pacha's officers paid us a visit, in order to ascertain what we were doing. One of the number, a good-natured intelligent Pole, bearing the appellation of Hajji, on seeing our boilers and bed- plates, &C., was heard to exclaim, 'Quand vous avez tout
cela h Berejik 'and here he broke off from want of
terms in which to express the utter impossibility of the accomplishment of our project. Nor was he very wide of the mark ; for although the task was not, as he supposed, impossible^ it proved to be almost Herculean.
Eough weather coming on, it had become very diffi- Bad cult, and at times it was dangerous, to pass the bar of ^ the Orontes, and the Expedition narrowly escaped a seri- ous calamity just as the landing was all but completed.
On April 13, when Captain Henderson, with his Capt, Hen- usual daring, was passing through the surf on the boatnpwt.
N
178 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
ciMP. bar, his gig was upset. Mr. Fitzjames happened to
' — * — ' be on the bar at the moment, but with most inefficient
means of assistance at hand; of these, however,
he made the best possible use, and, as it proved,
successfully. I give the incident in his own words : —
Mr. Fitz- ' At about 4 P.M., as I was landing through the surf
James's , o -o
account of in the launch, I observed astern the Captain of the " Columbine " in his gig, with four men pulling with difficulty through the surf, and at last a sea struck and turned her over. We instantly hauled astern, but the current had swept them all to the southward, and out of OTir reach. I saw two of the men land on the bar and walk to a low point near it, while the other two held on to the boat, but Captain Henderson came close to us, and seemed nearly overpowered. I threw him two oars, and he fortunately grasped one of them. We could not go to his assistance, as we had no oars, and had we let go the rope,* we should have been swamped also. It would have been madness to have jumi)cd after him. We suffisred the most intense anxiety, hearing his call for help, and not being able to do anything, till a boat from the " George Canning " picked him up completely exhausted. The " George Canning's" crew picked up the two seamen, going with great difficulty through the surf. The " Colum- bine's" boat was washed ashore, and we all felt thankful that no Ufe had been lost Of course (the intrepid Fitzjames adds) no more work was done that evening.'
The support of the oar would have proved in-
• The laden boats did not row, but were hauled along the line from the * George Canning ' to the shore.
INTERVIEW WITH IBRAHIM PACHA. 179
sufficient if nothing more had l)een done, but Mr. chap.
Charlewood, seeing from the deck of the * George — ^ — - Canning' what was taking place, caused a boat to be lowered and manned (so speedily that he scarcely knew how it was done), and hastened to the spot. He,
however, was barely in time to rescue Captain Hen- Rescue of
derson and his crew from a watery grave. But the Hendw-
BOXL
' Columbine's' gig was righted, and Captain Henderson returned to his ship. His first thoughts, after his own fortunate preservation, being for others, the signal of ' Bar impracticable ' was immediately sent up.
Three days after this event. Captain Henderson took visit to me to Lattaquia in the ' Columbine,' in the hope of bringing about some change in our anomalous position. But Ibrahim Pacha had already left, and we therefore returned to the camp (April 20), where we had the satisfaction of finding that the magazine had been cleared out, and the rest of the * George Canning's ' cargo, vdth the exception of the coals, had been landed. Still all our efforts to procure animals had l>een ftiiit- less, for the people were now quite aware that they must not render us any kind of assistance.
In the hope of overcoming this difficulty by obtaining the support of the local authorities, Captain Henderson took me to Tripoli, and on April 24 I had an inter- view with Ibrahim Pacha, the officers of the ' Columbine ' nemon- being present I did not fail to urge (what I presumed wSTibm- would have much weight) the heavy outlay now so ^°^^^^*- uselessly incurred, and for which the British Govern- ment would consider him responsible. To this, however, and much more to the same effect, he made the general reply, that he was only his father's
N 2
180 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, lieutenant, and consequently without any power to ^— > — ' act. Hoping that a little time might produce some change for the better, I told the Pacha that I should return to Suedia, and that if a more favourable reply did not follow me thither, I must make a statement to the British Government, in order that the necessary steps to enforce assistance might be taken ; adding that the number of engineers and other workmen must cause a heavy demand for the unnecessary delay to which we had been subjected ; and I might have added, had it not been somewhat injudicious to do so, that I was aware he had iuduced his father to take the same hostile course as himself.
To make the best of circumstances was now our only course. My previous acquaintance with the geography of the country lying between the Mediterranean and the Euphrates prepared me for its varied nature, and for difficult ground in certain places, especially when the transport of heavy weights was in question. The whole distance to be accomplished was about 140 miles, Dc«crip- which might be divided into two sections : the first com- lioM of prising the district lying between the sea and the eastern shores of the Lake of Antioch ; the second that stretch- ing from the Lake of Antioch, or White Lake, to our des- tination on the Euphrates, near the important town of Bir. This latter tract of country, with the exception of some hilly ground near the town of Azaz, is nearly a dead level, and possesses several well-peopled villages, with — what to us was very important — a large number of draught-bullocks.
But if the difficulties were comparatively trifling on this second half of our line, they were propor-
roQte.
ROUTES OF TUE EUPHRATES. 181
tionately formidable on the former one. Our carefiil chap. examination of the country had shown us, that there — ^ — ' were three lines more or less available for reaching the Lake of Antioch from the mouth of the Orontes. One was the circuitous route through Aleppo, using camels for carrying light weights; the second was by the Orontes as far as Guzel Burj, and across the Lake of Antioch to Murad Pacha ; the third could only be accomplished by opening a road across some steep and difficult hiUs, as far as the greater and lesser rivers Kara Chai, and thence on to Guzel Burj, whence, pass- ing through a labyrinth of rocks, we should reach the general landing-place at Murad Pacha on the farther side of the lake, where we should come upon the open country.
We had now to ascertain, practically, how far either or all these lines might be made available for the trans- port to Bir, whither Lieutenant Lynch had already gone, Lieut, and where he was engaged in making the necessary pre- p^^)ai»- parations for our arrival at this our intended station on uwHw. the Upper Euphrates, where affairs looked more pro- mising than could be the case within the limits of the territories still occupied by Mehemet Ali. For, as our vessels were to be set up and completed within the Sultan's dominions, the Vizir of Asia had the power not only to ^ve us the site which had been selected, but other facilities also, so long as our operations were carried on within the boundaries of his Government. These, however, only extended to a short distance westward of the river. A few words will make our position clearer to the reader.
Bir, or Birejik, is built on the side of a chalky range Descrip- of hills which rise abruptly from the water, and follow
182 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHiiP. the left bank of the Euphrates as far as about eight ' — - — ' miles below the town. This place was in many respects
unsuited for our station, having, among other drawbacks, the serious one of a ferry. A site was therefore care- fully selected on the right bank of the river, about 2 ^ miles below Bir, where Lieutenant Lynch ascertained that sUps could be constructed at 35 or 40 feet above the water-line, and where there would be sufficient space for buildings, stores, and workshops, which might be enclosed and protected by a parapet-waD.
This was Lieutenant Lynch's work at this period, whilst Messrs. Murphy, Ainsworth, and Thompson were, as has been already mentioned, surveying the Bay of Scanderoon, and our other officers and men were open- ing waggon-roads across the country, and preparing rafts to convey our heavy materials to Antioch. Capt. On May 3 Captain Estcourt retiurned to the camp
returns from Damascus, where he received the unsatisfactory miMion'to auswcr fpom Sheriff Bei, the governor, that he was ^^^' without any instructions to assist the Expedition. Cap- tain Estcourt had also, on his way back to Ameha Depot, visited Ibrahim Pacha at Tripoli, who gave him much the same reply as I had received from him, but entered more fully into the objects of the Expedition, its contemplated proceedings, and the capabiUties of the Eiver Euphrates for navigation. The Early on the morning of the same day the * Columbine '
bine' had left for Malta, receiving and returning our salute of Malta. seven guns ; and the reverberation of her 32-pounders in the Bay of Antioch told us plainly enough that we were losing the valuable and unwearied assistance of her commander, officers, and men. The ' George Canning '
DIFFICULTIES OF THE TRANSPORT. 183
had been previously discharged, and we knew that we chap. should soon see whether the fact of the Expedition ^ — ^ — being without the means of quitting Syria would, or would not, be sufficient to convince Mehemet Ali that any further opposition on his part must be useless.
Chiefly to give him an additional proof that our ob- jects would be carried out, but partly also for the sake of avoiding the evils of idleness, we commenced setting up the * Tigris ' steamer on May 6. This gave Setting up ample occupation to all in camp; while our other i^^!^"' works, including our station at Bir, which I had named Port William, continued to progress satisfactorily. But the main object, that in fact on which all else depended — the transport of our stores and materials — ^was quite at a standstill. Ibrahim Pacha not only continued un- moved by all our applications for assistance, but his orders to withhold all aid were strictly obeyed.
Finding that camels coining to us were constantly Cameis
prevented
stopped by the orders of the Pacha, and that our deten- from com- tion at Suedia must be complete if we depended on Egyptian support, we turned our thoughts to the Sul- tan's territory, and the means of assistance which it could afford. The small, shaggy, double-humped camel of the Turcomans was already doing us good service, as far as the conveyance of our lighter materials was concerned ; but the steamer's bent plates — to say nothing of the machinery — were quite beyond the powers of this animal. There was no prospect of ac- complishing our task unless other means could be found.
The best, and indeed the only, remaining resource Appeal lo
. ^"♦* Vizir
seemed to be an appeal to the Vizir of Asia, Eeschid of Asia.
184
NAREATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. X.
Arrival of Ibrahim Pacha at Antioch.
He passes onwards, and is not saluted.
The
•Tigris* set up and floated.
Pacha; and Captain Estcourt undertook tliis second mission, leaving the camp on May 7, accompanied by Dr. Staimton.*
While he was on his way to Diyar-Bekr there were fresh references to Ibrahim Pacha, who reached the Bay of Antioch in the * Nile ' steamer on the 20th ; and as he must of necessity land at or near our camp, I felt, as it were, on the horns of a dilemma. On the one hand, his vexatious annoyances did not entitle him to a cor- dial reception from the Expedition, whilst one of an opposite kind might only increase our difficulties. Wishing to avoid Scylla as well as Charybdis, I had the means of saluting him quietly prepared, in case the Pacha should land at our station. Our state of sus- pense was not of long duration. We saw the barge leave the ' Nile ' with Ibrahim sitting in the stern, but when almost at the entrance of the river, she changed her course, and proceeded to land the Pacha on the open beach about a mile to the northward of our camp. We afterwards ascertained that this sudden change was caused by his not seeing the guns manned, and by his belief, in consequence, that we did not intend to pay him the usual mark of respect of firing a salute.
Having a strong body of skilful workmen and ample means at command, the setting-up of the * Tigris ' steamer was soon accomphshed, and she was launched on May 22, in the presence of numerous spectators. On the 30th her engines were not only set up, but she was ready to ascend the Orontes to Antioch with a cargo of bent plates belonging to the larger steamer, and thus make a good beginning with regard to the
* See Appendix IV. for Captain Estcourt's Heport of his luififuon to Keschid Pacha.
THB STEAMER 'TIGRIS.'
185
transport. She failed, however, to stem the current chap. at the second obstacle she met with in her ascent, and ^rrz —
' Fails to
WnifimT
aacend the river.
THB 'TIOBia' STBAXBJL
we had the disappointment of seeing our little steamer returning with her cargo to the vicinity of the camp. After some additional attempts, it became but too clear that there was no hope of conveying the heavy ma- terials by water to Antioch, and the * Tigris ' had to be separated into eight sections in order to facihtate her carriage across the country.
During this interval a line of levels was being carried Building from Scanderoon to Bir ; building sUps were prepared at JiSdf "' the latter place, with a defensible work, sufficient to give protection to our armament and materials. All these operations gave healthy occupation to oiu: men, and kept up their interest in the Expedition. It soon, how- ever, became apparent to all that the carriage of our heavy materials across the country must be attended with great and unexpected difficulties. Even if our steamer had had sufficient power to ascend against the current of the Orontes, the rocks in some places were not sufficiently covered, at this low season, to permit her passage.* The river, evidently, could only be made useful to a limited extent by means of extraordinary
* River-steaming wati in ita infancy when the ^ Tigria/ the fifth vessel of her class, was built. One of the steamers now plying on the Thames would easily ascend the Orontes.
186 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, exertions, and was totally impracticable for the boilers. ' — • — ' Their conveyance by land, therefore, became impera- tive. But before describing our progress in this labo- rious undertaking, I must revert for a moment to S^urt C^P^^^^ Estcourt's mission to Eeschid Pacha. Not find-
R^d ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^* I^iy^-B^^» ^^ followed him Pacha. to his camp, where he had two interviews with him.
The moment was not altogether favourable for our
^® , apphcation, since the Vizir had scarcely established
assiBtance his authority in the district of Orfeih, which had but
nominal. , ,
just been given up by the Egyptians, so that there was much real difficulty in his taking any decided steps in our favour. He held out hopes of assistance, however, and gave a ' boyardhi' (or order) to enable us to obtain assistance from the local authorities in the Sultan's territory.
Provided with this document. Captain Estcourt re- turned to Suedia by way of Orfah, Bir, and Aleppo, on June 26. Here a most difficult and laborious task awaited him in that portion of the transport Construe- scrvicc which was allotted to his superintendence. We
tion of , T 1 • 1 /•
waggons, had two scHous Undertakings before us — the construc- tion of carriages strong enough to remove our ponder- ous boilers, &c., and the opening of a practicable road for a distance of 140 miles. The former was com- menced with hearty goodwill, chiefly by our own artisans, whilst the latter fell to both officers and men, who were stimulated to their utmost exertions by the example of their commander (Captain Estcourt) and his zealous assistants, amongst whom Lieutenant Cleavehmd, Messrs. Murphy, Charlewood, and Fitzjames specially distinguished themselves, and worked under the convic- tion that, come what might, they mudt not fail.
&c.
TRANSFOBT OF THE KEELSONS. 187
Gradually our work crept on. Under the super- chap.
2L,
iutendcnce of Mr. Eassam, the Turcomans conveyed ^ a large portion of our lighter materials and stores on their camels. Blanchard's pontoons and other portable things were carried by hand, by the people of Suedia, to Antioch. The conveyance of the keel- sons was one of our greatest difficulties, for, owing Thokeei- to theu: length, they could scarcely pass the sharp up the turnings of the narrow roads, and it became all-impor- tant to float them at least up the Orontes.
This task devolved upon one who was at all times ready to do his utmost to overcome difficulties, Mr. Chai'lewood. He formed these ponderoiis beams into a raft, finnly put together, took four seamen in one of the boats, and 30 natives to assist in dragging it over the most difficult places, and thus he commenced the ascent of the river. Owing to the strength of the current this was no ordinary task, even when there were no impediments to overcome; but in case of meeting either rapids, or one of the fishery weirs, it became necessary to separate the keelsons, and cany them one by one over the obstacle, whatever it might be. Four days of unwearying exertion took the keel- sons up the river to the neighbourhood of Antioch, from whence Mr. Fitzjames had them conveyed to Guzel Burj.
The people of the country were, naturally, quite The roaa unaccustomed to such serious labour, and this obliged menccd. us to employ at least three times the number that might have been necessary for similar exertions at home.
Towards the beginning of July some progress had been made with the road, and the preparation of
188
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. X.
Occupa- tions in the camp.
The heavy weights.
Transport of the • Tigris's ' sections.
The large boat on wheels.
sledges and other vehicles was far advanced. Our camp had been the scene of extraordinary energy and activity. Timber — chiefly oak and elm — had been arriving almost daily from the forests on the slopes of the Beilan Mountains ; iron, to supply our wants, was brought from Marash. Our force of carpenters and smiths had been increased by the constant exertions of Mr. Kilbie, our agent at Aleppo. For the weightiest portions of our materials, such as boilers, bed-plates,
&c., very strong sledges were prepared and put on wheels.
The next task in point of difiiculty was the re- moval of the ^Tigris' in eight sections. These were moxmted on wheels, and arrangements for the paddle-beams were made in the same way. The flat-bottomed boats were also put on wheels and dragged by land, while we endeavoured to assist them by spreading a sail. The result of our united laboxu* was that our own artisans, with local assistance, were enabled to con- struct 27 available carriages, in addition to our 4 artillery waggons.
One of our contrivances was a low truck-carriage, on which one of our boats, which had formerly done good service, was placed. But her progress was so
MIDSHIP SECTION OF ' EX7PHRATBS ' STEAMEfi.
SECTION OF ' TIOBIS ' STEAMBB.
CITT OP ANTlOCn.
slow over the plain, even with sails set and a favour chap. able wind, that we were obliged to have recourse to — • — -
animals to drag her as far as the Lake of Antioch, when she fell to the charge of our ' Admiral,' as Mr. Fitzjames was now constituted, after having completed his ahare of the transport service between Guzel Burj and Antioch.
This city, the modem Antakiyah, even with its mid- Citj of
, _ . , , „ Antioch.
berry-groves and fruit-gardens, covers but a small part
of the ground occupied by the ancient city, though it
still contains 14 mosques, a Mohammedan college, a
synagogue, and several baths. The houses, which are
of an inferior description, have tiled pent-roofs, and
exterior staircases, corridors, and balconies, with a
court below shaded by orange and pomegranate trees.
The most remarkable of the ancient gates are those of it" anciMit
St. Paul and Bab-el-Jisr,* or Gate of the Bridge, which
leads to the bridge over the Orontes. The population
' ' Expedition to Euphrates and Tigris,' vol. i. p. 425.
190 NAREATIVB OF THE EDPHEATE8 EXPEDITION.
CHAP, in 1836 was under 6,000. The walls of the ancient miiT^ city, which are still comparatively perfect, have a cir- ADtioch. cumference of about seven miles, and are nearly in the
form of a parallelogram, which to the SE. is bounded by a range of high rocky hills, and has on its nortli- western side the Valley of the Orontes. Walls and square towers of surprising solidity * once encircled this residence of the S3Tian monarch, the ' seat of pleasure, and the third city of the habitable earth.' f
At the highest extremity of this lofty range of hills is The Aero- the Acropolis, from the eastern side of which, by a bold gjhsoft B gQ-Qj^ qC genius, the wall has been carried down the almost vertical face of the cliff, and after crossing the valley this chain of walls has been made to ascend the opposite steep hill in a zigzag and extraordinary manner ; after which, having again been carried across another hill, it descends in the same daring way to
WALLS OP ANTIOCH. 191
the western walls at St. Paul's Gate. At the steepest chap. parts of the hiUs these walls necessarily become a sue- ^ — ^ — ' cession of gigantic steps between the towers, which at some places are close to one another, the walls being raised outside as a protection against the com- manding ground beyond. Near the western extremity of the city are the barracks and also the newly-built serai of Ibrahim Pacha. The groves of Daphne, the ^^«* ®^ translucent fountain of Zoila, and the remarkable pass &«• of the Eed CKff, as well as other objects of interest, are in the vicinity of this once royal but now fallen city.
In proportion as I became more fully alive to the consideration of the great difficulties which interfered with the prosecution of our undertaking through the country lying beyond the capital of Syria, I saw that I had made the serious mistake — ^though, perhaps, the only one — of husbanding too closely the public fimds entrusted to me. Had I in the first instance purchased animals and all that we required, instead of trusting to the anxiety of the people to earn money by hire, &c., in which course I was mainly actuated by a desire to economise our supply, we should have been saved many of those annoyances and vexatious delays which will be in part the subject of the following pages.
192 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER XI.
TRANSPORT OP THE MATERIALS TO PORT WILLIAM, AND PREPARATIONS TO SET UP AND FLOAT THE STEAMERS AT THAT PLACE, WITH THE DIFFI- CULTIES AND OPPOSITION OFFERED BY THE MUTSELLIM.
CHAP. The details of our proceedings after leaving the mouth of the Orontes until the completion and floating of our steamers on the Euphrates, in March 1836, must necessarily involve some repetition ; and the narra- tion of difficulties, which were so full of interest and excitement to us at the time, may now, it is to be feared, sometimes become tedious to the reader. Let it, however, be borne in mind, that in thus recording the trying difficulties met with in our transport service, the Commander is only endeavouring to do justice to the untiring exertions of his officers and men, whose persevering efforts were made at times almost against hope. Lieut. By the beginning of July Lieutenant Murphy had,
surveyf " with the assistaucc of Lieutenant Cockbum and Mr. Thompson, completed the survey of the coast-line of the Bays of Antioch and Scanderoon, &c. ; and these officers were now commencing the laborious task of carrying a line of levels from the seacoast to the Euphrates, in order to ascertain the practicability of cutting a canal. The remainder of our force had a more serious undertaking before them, which was allotted to them in four subdivisions.
r^ i ^^
ALLOTMENT OF WORK. 193
The first division passed from the depot at Suedia, chap.
XI.
over the most difficult spot which we encountered >
, , Arrange-
during the whole Expedition, and which was lon<nr mentof
, ^ ^. , . ° the routes
known among us by its well-earned appellation of from the * Hill of Difficulty.' This part of the line, and as far onwards as Guzel Burj, fell to Lieutenant Cleave- land and Mr. Charlewood, who had also the assistance of Doctor and Mr. A. Staunton.
The second division comprised the navigation of the Lake of Antioch, between Guzel Burj and Murad Pacha, Mid fell to Mr. Fitzjames, who bore the title of *our Admiral,' and no officer, even of that rank, ever did more to overcome difficulties.
The third division took the hne onwards from the Lake of Antioch to Port William, on the Euphrates ; and this portion was under the energetic direction of Captain Estcourt, who had the assistance of Messrs. Eden, Hector, and Rassam, besides that of some gun- ners of the Eoyal Artillery, under Sergeant-major Quin.
Thus the Agha Denghiz, or White Lake, became Agha the centre of our future operations. We had one lakef ^^ string of waggons and sledges to the westward in full work, under Lieutenant Cleaveland, and another (under Captain Estcourt) working the longer line between the lake and Port William. And whilst the most ponderous weights were thus conveyed by a combined operation from one place to another along the principal road from the coast to the lake, and thence on to the river, camels and mules, forming our fourth division, carried the lighter materials to their destination by a separate route, eastward of the lake. The camels were chiefly
0
194 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, brought to us by the Turcomans, who after a time
continued to serve us steadily, notwithstanding the opposition of Ibrahim Pacha.
It was not with ordinary zeal that the men and officers grappled with the difficulties we encountered in making our way to the Lake of Antioch, some of which were almost insurmountable. It was, as I have already mentioned, at the end of our first stage Reach the ^^^ ^^c camp at Sucdia that we came to one of the i^cufty.* ^^st serious of them all— the ' Hill of Difficulty/ We halted on the afternoon of our first day's progress at the base of this ascent. We had four artillery waggons, twenty-seven waggons and sledges, which we had con- structed on the banks of the Orontes, and numerous *arabas' or carts of the country, with which to trans- port the steamers' boilers — the heaviest of which weighed seven tons — and all our ponderous materials. The task of reaching the crest of the hill commenced next morning, and required the assistance of all our men, and of every other available means.
A zigzag path having been made, we confidently 40 pairs of exDCCtcd that, with 40 pairs of oxen and 100 men to
oxen and i ' r
100 men. e^cb slcdgc, the boilers might reach the crest of the hill one at a time, the whole of our available strength of animals and men being applied to each separately. But we soon found that the sharp angles and abrupt- ness of the ascent made this all but impracticable : with less enterprise and perseverance on the part of the officers and men it must have been quite so. They were, however, fertile in expedients. Anchors were fixed firmly in the ground a little distance in advance, towards which the boiler was drawn by puDeys and
THE 'HILL OF DIFFICULTY.' 196
drag-ropes inch by inch ; at certain places jack-screws '^^.^â–
were used to raise the sledge ; and by these processes, — ■— ' tedious though they were, the summit was attained
step by step. Of course these operations had to be repeated with each of our heavy weights ; and when the difficulties of the ascent were at length happily overcome, the descent was attended not only with nearly as much difficulty, but with considerable danger also. By attaching well-manned drag-ropes behind each car- riage, we managed, however, to lower them gradually down the steep ascent, till each one safely reached the level country below. One boiler was aU but over- • turned dining the ascent, and was in danger of going over the precipice. The ready pencil of Mr. A. ^ Staunton has shown it in its critical position, with one native workman holding it up manfully with all his might, under the belief that his strength would be suffident to avert the calamity. (See next page.) The difficulties in conveying tlie boilers between
196
KAERATIVE OF THE EDPHEATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Suedia and Antiocli were peculiarly harassing, from
- — ■— ' the constant breaking-down of our carriages and other
means of conveyance, which not only caused serious
delay, but taxed the resources and ingenuity of the officers in charge to a painful extent. One of tlie heaviest boilers had been taken over some of the worst
giound at an average rate of about half a mile per diem, and was being dragged onward over a rough stony
AN UmEXPECTED RESOURCE. 197
plain, by some 60 hired bullocks and as many men, chap. when the truck came in violent contact with a large - — r^— '
piece of rock, which caused the guiding-beam attached to the fore-axle to snap in two. This was a very serious accident, for if no timber could be had to replace the broken beam at once, the men and their bullocks would be sure to leave, and could not have been reassembled for many days to come.
Almost in despair, Mr. Charlewood, the officer in charge, proceeded to a lonely house close by, with the forlorn hope of learning where a beam might be obtained. He found the family quietly occupied with their morning meal, and quite indifferent to our diffi- culties. But when all prospect of assistance seemed to be at an end, he perceived that the roof of their dwelling was supported by a large beam, running from a beam
1 n -I 1 rrn • n tA^eH from
one end wall to the other. This was a most fortunate a house to discovery, and no time was lost in making known to bo?fep. the owner, to his utter amazement, that we must pur- chase his house. A bargain was struck at once, to the satisfaction of both parties ; and before the occupants had time to quit their dwelling, the sailors were at work stripping the roof and extracting tlie beam. Thus, within less than an hour of the breakdown, the boiler was supplied with a new guiding-beam, and was moving on towards Guzel Burj, where water-carriage was substituted for that by land ; and it fell to Mr. Fitz- james to convey the heavy weights across tlie lake to Murad Pacha, where the task of their conveyance on- ward to Port WiUiam devolved upon Captain Estcourt. These arrangements, diligently carried out, nearly cleared out our depot at the Orontes in a short time ;
lyo NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, and I then organised a soaall caravan to convey the ■— ■— guns, small arms, and a large supply of powder for
mining purposes, to our station on the Euphrates, and quitted our camp myself on July 10, and on the 18th readied Port William. This place had now, in its turn, become the centre of our operations, having on one side the line of transport, and on the other the prepara- tions for the navigation of the river. Unremitting exer- tions had by this time accomplished a good deal of the former task, and by the middle of August our men and animals were no longer toOing between Suedia and the Lake of Antioch, on which our persevering ' Ad- miral ' had also all but completed his task.
The brunt of the transport labour was now trans- ferred to the line between Guzel Burj and Poi-t William, on which Captain Estcourt and Mr. Eaasam were working assiduously and cheerfiilly, enjoying tho- roughly the absurd incidents which often arose to enhven even their most serious diffiadtJes. On one
ex-
SUPPOET OP THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. 199
occasion, at the village of Afirin, when our long team of chap. oxen were struggling to drag the large boiler through its difficulties, one poor beast fairly laid down under the blows of its Turcoman driver. * You lazy effeminate fellow/ shouted Achmet Bei, the commander of the Turcomans, *make your beasts draw!' — 'I effeminate ! ' retorted the indignant Turcoman, ' you shall soon see Turoonum what / can do ! ' and seizing the poor ox by the ears, ^^^^ he pulled away so energetically to get him on, that he pulled them outj and taking them to Captain Estcourt, as a proof of his zeal, exclaimed, * Who will dare to call me effeminate now ? ' These trophies were long preserved by Captain Estcourt. Nor was this a sohtary instance of such an occurrence ; another pair of ears were pulled out afterwards at the Sdjiir and brought to us by an equally energetic Turcoman !
An important step in advance had been made by Setting setting up part of the large steamer, although under steamer, very unusual circumstances, for her keel and a large portion of her materials still remained at different places between the lake and their ultimate destination. But although much remained to be done, things were beginning to look more favourable, and towards the end of August a letter arrived from Sir John Hobhouse, President of the Board of Control, giving us the all-im- portant intelligence that His Majesty's Government had made known to the Pacha of Egypt, that having under- taken the Euphrates Expedition, not only with his con- currence, but with the express sanction of the Sultan also, it must now be faithfully carried out.
The results of this strong remonstrance were im- mediate orders from Mehemet Ah to afford us every
200
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, assistance. Presuming that he would not venture to J^^'^ J ' give fresh umbrage to the British Government, our ob- remon- structious Seemed to be removed; for with respect
strancefl ...
by British to the TuFcomaus, and the natives within the Sultan's
Cknrem-
ment. territory, all had been smooth for some Uttle time past. But our prospects had scarcely become brighter when other trials awaited our little force.
Casualties Constant exertions and exposure to an extreme climate
and sick- . ,
ness. had greatly augmented our sick list. Two valuable men. Corporal Geddes, of the Eoyal Engineers, and James Brown, an able seaman, died. At this time I was myself quite unconscious of anything that was going on, and yet a confused connection between our work and the wanderings of brain-fever possessed me. Out of consideration for my state, the riveting of the steamers' plates had been stopped; but it was soon discovered that the stillness greatly aggravated my fever, while the sound of eight hammers hard at work gave me immediate reUef.
The first news that greeted my returning conscious- ness and convalescence, was that of the addition by
Morefunds Government of 5,000/. to the funds of the Expedition. This was most cheering, since it suflBiced not only to repay the advances made on my responsibility by Messrs. Cox, but those of my friends Hampden Gled- stanes and George Glas Sandeman also, and yet left 3,000/. in hand for the expenses of the undertakmg. I had also the gratification of finding that the transport had been carried on with unabated energy during my illness, as well as the putting together of the steamer.
Depots Dep6ts of coal were now established at Deir and
of coal ^
established Anna, on the Euphrates, with reference to our
UECT. LTXCH S MI^IOX TO THE ASAB& 201
approaching desc^it and survey of the river ; while^ ^ ?f^* at the same time, we took every pains to make the — ' — ' Arab Sheikhs muderstand that our visit was one of peace and mutual advantage. For the promotion of these objects, and to ensure a cordial understandings I had proposed that Mr. Wherry, Consid at Aleppo, should undertake an explanatory mission to tl\e Arabs, This, however, eventually devolved upon Lieutenant Li«it Lynch,* Mr. Wherry finding it difficult to leave l)is i>ost onTmiT for the purpose. Lynch set out on tl\e 5th of September, aJS)*, accompanied by his brother, by the younger SU\m\ton, and by Mr. EUiot, who had recently joined us.f The party proceeded in the first instance to Orfah, tlieu to Haran, and, making their way tlirough that district, passed along the river towards Deir. During this mission, which necessarily occupied some time, the exertions of the officers and men of the Expedition continued with unabated ardour.
The hue of levels carried on by Lieutenants Murphy Uw of and Cockbum and Mr. Thompson was approaching acroM completion ; J and though the Pacha's assistance was ^"** often more nominal than real, much was done not- withstanding, under Captain Estcourt's direction, in moving the heavy weights on to Port William. Thus, the bed-plates and cylinders were safely transported thither, though under very adverse circumstances, especially diuing the heavy rains, which had already commenced. While these various operations were
• See Appendix V. for Lieut. Lynches report.
1 1 had made Mr. Elliot's acquaintance at Bagdad just after his oicape from the melancholy fate of Meesrs. Taylor, Bo water, and their companiotm.
I This was, it is helieved, the longest line of levels which had boon carried out up to that time.
202 NAERATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, being carried on simultaneously at different points
— r-^— of our line, our leading object of putting together
the ' Euphrates ' steamer was proceeding rapidly. As
Progress the different parts were brought up they were fitted
uptw^- i^to th^ir places at once. The keel and stem were the
^^^r. 1^^ ^ arrive ; but as soon as they were fitted in, the
slips were prepared, and on September 26 the launch
took place.
M. Vincent Germain, who had only been deterred from joining the Expedition by the Pacha's hostihty, was present as a visitor on this occasion, and was both able and willing to give useful advice, although Lieu- tenant Cleaveland's presence was, in fact, all that was requisite to ensure success. Prepare- The nature of the ground was such that it had been the L^ch. imperative to put up our vessel parallel to the river, and, as a necessary consequence, to launch her side- ways. The banks at Port William are some twenty- five feet above the surface of the water ; the steamers, therefore, had to be put together at that elevation ; and it was necessary to prepare three slips — one near the bow, a second at the stern, and a third amidships — along which she was to be allowed to slide gently downwards, easing her off by means of one chain near the bow, and another towards the stem. These being ready, and the signal given, she slipped down- wards, and, at first, as gently as could be desired; but when she had gone about a quarter of the distance towards the water, one of the chains stretched, and was evidently about to give way altogether. This was a very critical moment ; but before there was time for the chain to part entirely, and thus permit the vessel
LAUNCH OF THE STEAMER ' EUPHBATES/ 203
to make a fatal swing round and be thrown off the chap. slips, Lieutenant Cleaveland, with admirable presence of — - — mind, called to the men to ' Let go the other chain ; '
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' EUPHRATB8 ' BKIKO LAX7KCHED.
and being now unchecked, our vessel continued to descend with increased and, to us, alarming velocity, Launch till she actually leapt into the river. Happily, she fell phrate*.' into the Euphrates in an upright position, and the impetus, as may easily be imagined, caused the water to fly upwards on each side. But all was perfectly safe, and the astonished acclamations of several thou- sands of spectators accompanied the (to them) wonderful sight of iron floating on the water.* The good people of Bir had, at the same time, the gratification of seeing the ensigns displayed of two nations which are so deeply interested in making the present link not only permanent but mutually beneficial. On this occasion the ' Euphrates ' had the Union Jack at the bowsprit, the Blue Peter at her bow, the Aiab flag on the fore- mast, the Turkish Crescent on the main, and the British ensign at the stem. The launch thus happily effected,
* The Arabs at Bagdad afterwards translated a distich; which runs thus : —
* When iron floats on the water, There is nouglit for the Arabs but dispersion or slaughter/
204 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, rejoicings, with moderate conviviality on the part of * — r-^ — ' ourselves and men, followed this successful operation.
Next morning the 'Euphrates' was hauled to a suitable place alongside the bank, in order to place the heavy weights on board ; but, unfortunately as regarded her completion, two pieces of her boilers were still on the road, and each succeeding day's delay increased our diflBculties, although as yet the rains had only par- tially commenced. The bed-plates and keelsons were put on board and bolted down ; some deck-beams were fitted in their places, and a beginning was made with the watertight compartments.
On October 3 Seyd Ali Agha arrived fi:om Bagdad, Letters with letters fi:om our Eesident in that city to the I^^L various Arab Sheikhs along the river, urging them to give us every possible assistance.
In the course of this month, especially during its earUer part, much was done. The engines were nearly set up — the magazine and cabin were far advanced ; but a great deal depended upon the goodwill of the local authorities, and it would be diflScult to describe Difficulties the petty annoyances to which Captain Estcourt, and riMlccd. the officers generally, were subjected by the withdrawal of the authority to obtain horses, camels, mules, &c. The difficulty of getting supplies was also increased ; for avaricious officials sought, by all kinds of vexatious extortion, to get more money than was fair. Still all our httle force worked on with unabated patience, cheerfulness, and a hearty unity, which was one of our greatest elements of success. The opposition of the Pacha of Egypt was at the bottom of all these difficul- ties ; although this seemed to admit of some excuse.
206
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. XI.
Illness of
Captain
Estcoort.
Further- ance of the tians- port.
and the doctor by his knowledge of geology and other scientific subjects. This was therefore, in all respects, a very acceptable addition to our party, and the ladies' cabin being almost completed, we were able to give the necessary accommodation.*
At this juncture we lost the invaluable services of Captain Estcourt, whose health gave way under his unwearied exertions; and his illness necessitated a redistribution of work, to fill up the blank as fiax as it was possible. The line from the SAjur river to Port WilUam was now allotted to Lieutenant Qeaveland and Seyd Ali, who had recently joined us from Bagdad ; that from the Sdjur to Azaz was given to Messrs. Hector and Bassam; while to Mr. Fitzjames fell the charge of the portion on from Azaz to Gindareez. Mr. Charlewood, assisted by Messrs. Elliot and Sader, undertook the line from Gindareez to Murad Pacha, the general superintendence having devolved upon Lieute- nant Lynch, on his return from his mission to Deir. And, as it was all-important to convey the heavy weights before the rains set in, additional horses were purchased to the full extent that our remaining funds permitted, not doubting that the people would readily bring their bullocks to complete our task. Ac- cordingly 50 men and twice as many animals being engaged, one piece of the boiler was, with the assistance of men and officers, placed on board the steamer on October 28. And on the 5th of the succeeding month, 72 oxen and 36 men brought in another piece,
* Dr. Heifer was subsequenUj employed with reference to the culti- vation of tea in Assam, where, most unhappily, he was murdered by the natives during his explorations. Our most agreeable travelling com- panion, Madame Heifer, is the present Baroness Nostitsch.
COMMENCEMENT OF THE RAINS.
207
although with increasing difficulty, owing to the rains, chap. These appeared to have now regularly set in, while ^ — ^ — fresh and imexpected opposition from the Turkish authorities augmented our impediments. The Mutsellim Opposition of Bir, whose opposition had hitherto been underhand, Mutseiiim became openly hostile. Either from his wish to pay his court to the rising star in Egypt, or from some other motive, he ordered his people to withhold that assistance in men and animals which had now become more than ever necessary to us.
'euphbates' steamer.
This considerably crippled our powers. Still we managed to continue the transport more or less with our own men and horses ; while the advanced state of the ' Euphrates * steamer permitted us to commence the ' Tigris,' and her three sections were set up, that they miglit be again riveted together. The whole of her materials being comparatively light, with the excep- tion of one very ponderous piece of boiler, were conveyed by waggons and camels. In the hope of escaping the increased difficulties caused by a flooded country, every nerve had been strained to get all brought into the station before the rains came on; every man and animal toUed to the utmost extent of his powers — but it was all in vain I
The rains finally set in before our task was accom-
208 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, plished, and towards the middle of November, Lieute-
XI.
^- — r-^ nant Lynch proposed a cessation of the transport until the spring. Some little respite would, no doubt, have been desirable for the sake of all concerned, but, for many reasons, I felt that intermission of any kind must be quite a last resource. The engineers and boiler- makers had already given notice that their time was nearly up ; and even if they could have been induced to remain, the consequent additional expenditure would have been a very serious consideration, so that, on this account alone, total inaction for the rest of the winter was to be avoided if possible. I therefore determined to make every effort to extricate the remaining heavy Eflfortsto weights from their marshy bed. With this object, I the flooded forwaxdcd a supply of planks to Lieutenant Lynch, and ^^ ' suggested that by moving them in succession from the rear to the front of the carriage, we might create a plank road as we went along, and thus pass over the worst ground, promising my personal assistance as soon as I should have sufficiently recovered my strength.* I soon had the satisfaction of learning that the boiler's sledge was on its way to the station with its ponderous load, while Lieutenant Cleaveland continued his portion of the work with his wonted unshaken perseverance.
On December 1 another piece of boiler was safely brought into Port William by Mr. Hector, wliose crowning achievement was the recovery of the Thediv- diving-bcll, which, having been overtaken by the rains, wojyered. had been fairly lost in a sheet of muddy water, till its position was ascertained by means of bamboos used as feelers. Having discovered its wliereabouts, Mr.
• I was then recovering from fever and ague.
•^ir^
•I Hi
6 « 'ti
tTPHRATBS BOILER BROUQUT IS. 20S
sd it to be rolled out of the water by chap.
)le8, placed on a sledge, and drawn by ■— --^ — s station, where it was reoaved with lively
nd a due appreciation of his successful
lion of the Mutsellim of Bir having relaxed ee, our efforts, aided by liberal payment, li a force of men and animals, that on
ova: heaviest piece of boiler, drawn cks, assisted by 52 natives and all our ased under a triumphal arch into Port la^tboiior Ist a discharge of rockets and petereros, "[J^J,?"" bs, rejoicings, and congratulations of our »"iTes. ow saw a termination to our long-con- dous labours. One individual felt disap- 9tead of pleasure. The Mutsellim of idently expected that the deep mud in lerlay imbedded would have rendered its [y impossible, and now he beheld the last »us of our difficulties happily overcome !
steamer was now fast approaching ind but few pieces belonging to the ined on the road. To form dep6t8 of iliel rer, and make arrangements for the ' and descent, would now have been all
resources.
210 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION
CHAP, that remained to be done, had the Egyptian and ' — r-— ' Turkish officials been honest in giving their assistance. True, they had received orders to give us every aid ; but as neither Government really desired the success of the Expedition, they took advantage of the neutral ground lying between their respective frontiers,* and used it to disappoint our hopes as much as possible. Our materials were readily conveyed as far as the Egyptian frontier, where, on the plea that tliey had no right to take them farther, they were allowed to remain. And there they would have remained until now, had no Reduced otlicr than the local means of moving them on been our own foimd. But by the use of our own horses and men, and by the partial adaptation of camels to purposes of draught, we managed to do without the natives, and conveyed our materials into the Sultan's territory, where we had a right to demand assistance. Finding himself foiled, our old enemy, the Mutsellim, caused our horses to be turned out of the village, forced the carpenters to leave their work and return to Bir, with- held our supphes of bread from that town, and took the more decided step of searching our station for 2,000 muskets, which he alleged had been brought by us with some sinister design.
These extraordinary proceedings caused me to apprehend that the seizure of our vessels was intended ; and the thought passed through my mind, that, in such an event, our amply-supplied magazine provided me with the meaus of leaving him nothing but the fragments of what had caused us such toil. When, however, my irritation calmed down, I saw reason to beheve tliat
Thifl wfu» a distance of barely five miles.
DISMISSAL OF THE MUTSELUM OF BIB. 211
the Mutsellim's conduct, as well as that of Mehemet chap.
XI
Ah himself were not likely to be sanctioned by the ^--^ — Sultan ; and on representing the circumstance to the Porte through Lord Ponsonby, this man was imme- diately dismissed, and a more favourably disposed successor appointed, while our preparations were quietly resumed.
At one time during our difficulties, the immediate descent of the river with the larger vessel o?ily seemed desirable, leaving the ' Tigris ' to follow on her comple- tion. But the expected addition to the sailors from England, to replace the men who had perished, as well as the great advantage of having a second steamer in case of any untoward circumstance, caused this hurried descent to be abandoned. The new MutselUm also gave us such limited assistance in workmen as we still required at the station ; and the Egyptian Government having become more favourably disposed towards us, I turned my attention to the important object of a supply of fuel, and arranged a journey into the neighbouring part of the Taurus, with a view to the solution of this question.
p2
212
NARBATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAPTEE Xn.
CHAP.
xn.
SEARCH FOB COAL AND NATIVE STEEL IN THE MOUNTAINS NEAR MABASH — ^ASCENT OP THE STEAMER TO THE TOWN OP BIB.
We had heard that coal had been found not only in the country to the westward of our station, but also on the banks of the river below Port William, where it was described to us as a coal of greyish-white colour. This we decided to leave until our descent of the river, and, hoping that two of our invalids, Messrs. Murphy and Ainsworth, might be benefited by the change, as well as myself, we left Port WilHam on January 9, taking with us only one other effective individual, Mr. A. Staunton. Proceeding to Aintab, and from thence to Killis, we crossed the Beilan chain to Scanderoon; whence we sent some of our workmen (whose engagements were completed) to England, and commenced our exploratory journey.
After going over the Issic plain, its battle-ground, and other places of interest, we continued our journey along the Jihun * to Missis, and to Adana, — thence to Tarsus, where we were hospitably received by the family of the French C!onsul, M. Gilet, whom we found engaged in excavating some very singular remains near the town. These consisted of massive walls in its ancient the form of a parallelogram, within which, at either
temple. ^ •'■^
end, was a solid square block of masonry, — ^while two
• Jihun, or Jeharson, the * River of the World.'
Beilan chain.
Battle- ground of Issus.
Tarsus and
JOURNEY THROUGH THE TAURUS. 213
transverse and very substantial lines of masonry crossed chap.
XII.
this parallelogram at its eastern extremity. M. Gilet, however, in this case failed to find anything like an interior chamber, the whole consisting of masses of masonry, which most probably originally formed part of some kind of temple.
Passing onward from Tarsus through a district of tertiary rock, we visited the extensive but imperfectly- worked lead-mines of Kule Bos^haz, which occur in Kuie
. Boghai
limestone of the cretaceous series. After an unsuc- lead- cessful attempt to find the expected coalfields, we resumed our journey along the abutments of the Taurus, in the direction of Sis. The people on this line have so bad a name, that our mukero (muleteer) refused to take us by the direct route, and we had immediate proof of his correctness, by a shot which was fired at us as we approached the neighbour- ing village. Shortly after this proof of illwill, Mr. Ainsworth and I, when looking for francolins, found We lose that we had lost the rest of our party; and after " ^' attempting for some time to find them, we ultimately determined to proceed onwards, following the bear- ing which had been given us of north 72^ E. We passed through a very picturesque country, and having forded the Eiver Jihun, arrived at the village of Utchinga soon after dark, where we were treated to a scanty supper and one bed, without any tidings of our missing companions. Long before dayhght we moved onwards in the same direction as before, and reached a village called Guesiche. On enquiring for the lost Franks, we were conducted to another house, where we found a bright fire, but not that of our attendant
214 NAKEATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Malta. The master of the house led us upstairs, where,
XII.
instead of our own party, we found five strangers asleep. We therefore hastily retraced our route, passing a Venetian tower ; and after making unsuccessful en-
viiiage of quiries at the village of Doorac, we reached, in the afternoon, the large square building, inhabited by the local chief of the district, Belemange-Oglou. Here we had a meal of thin bread-cakes, with pomegranates and water-melons, &c.
Enquiries for our party put us in communication with a Eussian doctor, who only knew a few words of Turkish in addition to his own language. Therefore, after some ludicrous attempts to get some traces of our missing companions, we had recourse to the Bei him- self ; ftx)m whom we found, to our serious disappoint- ment, that a guide could only be obtained to Adana, and not to Sis, which lies in the opposite direction. There seemed no alternative but to proceed : keep- ing therefore to our guiding 72^ East, we passed over a succession of wooded shoulders, and through pic- turesque valleys, halting for refreshment at the vil- lage of Buschoff, and later in the day at Boomgush, where, to our surprise, the people refused payment for their hospitality. We put up for the night at Solacle, where we met with very different treatment, for a francolin, cooked by ourselves, was all that fell to our lot. Next day we followed the course of the Jihun,
FaqueU through Very fine scenery, to Faquela Quoi, where, owing probably to the want of an interpreter, a cold room and scanty fare were all that we could obtain, which treatment naturally increased our anxiety to reach Sis ; indeed, we felt sure that we could not be
CARLO TAGH AND TOWN OF 6TS. 215
very far from this town, unless our beaiings were chap. incorrect. , - — ^-^
We obtained a guide for a short distance the next morning, although not without considerable difficulty, and were ferried over the Jihun, proceeding parallel to its left bank in what we supposed to be the direction of Sis. Early in the afternoon we fell in with some Ouided by
compass*
labourers, who told us that this town lay at the foot of the Carlo Tagh. The very remarkable peaks of this mountain now guided our steps. We passed one or two reed-built villages, and halted for the night at Mosolu, a collection of huts, in one of which we obtained sorry accommodation amongst a crowd of catergiea (muleteers), who had also halted with their animals for the night. Unable to procure a guide, we resumed our journey towards Carlo Tagh in the morn- ing ; and at noon, on reaching an extensive Turcoman Onwaid camp, we had the great satisfaction of finding that our irood^ bearing had been quite correct. Cheered and encou- ^^"^ **"'' raged by this certainty, we pressed on tlirough an opener country, looking out anxiously for some marked object in addition to Carlo Tagh ; but none appeared till late in the day, when we descried, at the distance of some 20 miles, a stupendous conical rock rising from the level ground, which might, or might not, prove to be Sis. The plain over which we were passing was in- tersected by the affluents of the Jihun, two of which we forded ; still, there was no appearance of any town. But, on crossing the bridge over the main branch of the Ji- hun, and rounding the rocky eminence which had latterly guided our steps, our toil and anxieties were ended. Arrive at by finding ourselves actually entering the town of Sis.
f
21G NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. We sought and found hospitality at the Convent ^- — r-^ of the Armenian Patriarch, and were most thankful
for the fiiigal supper provided for us ; but still there was no news of our party. Later in the evening, how- ever, we learnt that they were at Sis, in another part of the town ; and on hastening to their quarters, their
Joinoup welcome, and the good supper prepared by Malta, made up not only for our scanty meal at the convent, but also for our privations during the four days, during which we had made a journey of about 125 miles. We could say and feel, with Horace, that past dangers became pleasmres. On comparing notes we learnt that our party had remained a whole day at the place where we had missed them, and failing to find any trace of our route they continued theirs to Sis ; but as they were behind us, and took another line, there was no chance of any tidings of them short of Sis, which they had only reached the day before we did.
Sis is the seat of the Armenian Patriarch, whose palace is in the town, and it derives much of its im- portance from its being the centre of the three archi-
The town cpiscopatcs of Turkey. The town contains about 1,000 houses, which are built round the remarkable rock already mentioned, which rises nearly 1,000 feet above the plain. This curious position has been castellated and strengthened with more than ordinary care, and its works indicate that this has been done at two different periods — the earUer one having had reference to bows and arrows only ; the latter consisting of walls flanked by round towers, and adapted for musketry.
On the eastern side of this isolated hill is a spacious natural cavern full of stalactites, which have a rich
RUINS OF AIN 2ABBAH. 217
purple or rather crimson tint. A few miles fix>m the chap.
. . . . XII
modern town of Sis are the remains of the ancient city, • — r-^
now called £ara Sis, or Black Sis. Its principal feature is a remarkable castle, on one side of which a succession of cut-stone steps rise to the very sunmiit of the hill. We devoted the following day to the ruins of Ain Ain Zarbah. Its castellated remains are a few miles to the eastward of Sis. They have an imposing appearance, occupying, as they do, the steep slopes of a lofly rock on the banks of the Fyramus, and the cut-stones are here still sharp and fresh. The crest of the hiU lis reached by steps cut in the rock ; it would otherwise be quite inaccessible. The ruins at its base consist of a square enclosure with a triple line of defence, con- taining temples and other remains.
From Ain-Zarbah we made our way to an adjoining Tmcoman Turcoman camp, where we received scanty hospitahty, ^â„¢^' but were allowed to pass the night, and the next morn- ing we traversed the alpine and wooded scenery of the abutments of this part of the Taurus. One night was Hurdk- spent in a small hut, built of hurdles and partially y^age. flooded, in the Turcoman village of Adjain Oglu Byad- Fuquoie. The following night we reached Zootale, a neat Armenian village containing stone-built houses, snugly placed in a hollow on the mountain-side.
The scenery continued strikingly bold, and was varied by two fine waterfalls, and by the junction of the two branches of the Jihun some 500 feet below us, while beyond this appeared a village, looking as if suspended over the water. Near this the ground became so difficult that it was necessary to unload our animals and carry our luggage across it ; later we forded the
218 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
Ohap. Anabat Su, and light beginning to &il we were glad to
.^^ seek shelter from heavy rain in a goatherd's hut on the
gM^eni'B Diountain slope, which was ab:eady so filled by a flock
^^^' of kids, that in order to admit us the shepherds had to
remain outside all night smoking their pipes. We
rewarded them next morning for their kindness and
their supply of milk, and proceeded on our way.
Neither of our hosts was willing to act as guide, and we had to get on as best we could with tlie Durdun Tagh before us. The mountain scenery was extremely fine, occasionally diversified with, cascades as far as the castle and village of Anabat. Thence we DOngaiA continued our route through the village of Dungala, and ^*^^* descending through deep snow we arrived, after many difficulties, at the village of Fank, where we thoroughly enjoyed the luxury of a good fire to dry our wet clothes. Our path still lay along the side of the wooded mountain, at a considerable elevation, and ere long it became almost impracticable ; the baggage horse missed his footing and slipped down the declivity, till his descent was fortunately arrested by a tree, where he remained, with his legs on each side of it, suspended over the edge of the precipice. We managed to unload the poor fellow, and prepared to rescue him by means of the ropes attached to the baggage, with which we hauled him up to the pathway, never expecting that he would be able to move : to our surprise, however, he was almost unhurt, and did his work as well as usual. We now retraced our steps to Dungala, in order to find a more practicable road, and the next morning re- sumed our journey. A steep and difficult descent led us down to the Kurolu-su, which we forded above its
MARASH AND ITS PBODUCTS. 219
junction with the Jihun ; then, touching a bend of this chap. river, we followed a mountain pathway till we opened — ^-r-^ a more practicable pass through the Taurus, which brought us to Marash, where we were conducted to the iteaeh
^^ Tit — ■la
very quarters I had formerly occupied in that city.
Here the satisfactory intelligence awaited us that rapid progress was being made with the * Tigris' steamer, and that, owing to recent orders from Mehemet Ali, our few remaining materials and stores were no longer to be allowed to remain in the territory which had been disowned by both the Sultan and the Pacha.
Marash had l)een an important place to us, our supply of timber having come from its surrounding forests. Iron, plumbago, and native steel are also found in its neighbourhood, but our expectations of coal were disappointed, and here our search for it ended. Lieutenant Murphy and Mr. Ainsworth set out for Samsat to connect that place by triangulations with our station, and I started alone and on foot for Port WiUiam, Rettun to full of the prospect of immediately commencing the wuiumi, long-delayed descent and survey of the Euphrates.
Taking the route of Kumkalah and Oram, I reached the station on the evening of February 24, where I had the inexpressible pleasure of finding everything in a most satisfiictory state. Lieutenant Cleaveland, Mr. Eden, and Seyd Ali, with the local assistance, which was now, for the first time, given heartily, were approaching with the last heavy portion of the ' Tigris.' Lieutenant Lynch and his brother were employed in making some necessary purchases at Aintab. Captain Estcourt, his brother Mr. William Estcourt,* Messrs. Fitzjames, Staun-
• The Rev. William Estcourt, of Newnton Rectory, Tetbury, Wilts.
220
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP.
xn.
ton, Hector, and Eassam were at the station, and their work almost finished. Indeed, we scarcely now required any assistance from Mehemet Ali, whose vexatious thwarting and opposition terminated when all difficulties had been overcome by our own perseverance. Our last heavy weight, the 'Tigris' boiler, reached the station on February 27, drawn by 104 oxen, with 52 native drivers to give them assistance, as well as all our own men, and it entered Port Wilham under a trium- phal arch formed of the flags and ensigns of both Last boiler the stcamcrs. It was the last of our difficulties happily "^ *"' overcome, and as such was greeted by a discharge of guns and rockets, while three hearty cheers proclaimed the completion of our herculean task.
While the bulwarks of the ' Tigris ' were being pre- pared, the time was well employed by Lieutenant Lynch in connecting the river below Samsat with our station. The line of levels was als(5 completed by Mr. Thomson ; and the measurement of a base-Une for the approaching survey was carried out by Captain Estcourt and Mr. Murphy, as well as the pendulum experiments. Our numbers were also completed at this period by the arrival of two sappers and four men from the * Colum- bine,' and the following distribution of officers and men was made for the approaching survey and descent : —
Allotment of Officers and Men to the 'Euphrates* and * Tigris* Steamers, the Commanding Officer being alternately in each steamer : —
Line of levels, and survey, &c
' EXTPHBATES.'
Capt J. B. Estcourt, 43rd L. Lu Lieut R. F. Cleaveland, R. N. Ldeut H. F. Murphy, R. E. Mr. £. P. Charlewood, R. N.
' TiGKIS.'
Lieut. H. B. Lynch, Indian Navy, Mr. H. Eden, R N. Lieut R. Cockbum, R A. Doctor Staunton, R. A.
OFFICEBS AND MEN OF THE EXPEDITION.
221
'EUPHKATIS.'
Mr. J. FitsjameSy R. N.
Mr. '^i^^lliam Ainsworih.
Mr. C. Raaaam. 1 _ ^ SevdAU. |A<«y«fer..
ft
Mr. Thomaa Hurst, Engmeer,
Dr. Heifer. 1 „
Mrs. Heifer. J ^««»^^'-
< Tigris.'
Mr. A. Staunton. Mr. W. T. Thomson. Mr. WUliam Eliot I ^ , ^ J. Ssder. J ^'•<«y^^'-
Mr. Andrew Clegg, EngimMr. Lieut. R. R Lynch, 1 _, Lidian Army. J -"»«»^^-
CHAP.
xn.
Sergeant-majorWilliam Quin, R. A., Storekeeper and Mtuter-ai^Amu,
Acting Sergeant R. Clerk, R. E., Carpenter,
Mmeri,
Sergeant Sein, R. R
Corporal Gidens, R R
Gunner Hughes, R. A.
Gunner Gr^gor Mc- Donald, R. A.
Gunner Charles Camp- bell, R. A.
Gunner Edward An- 1 drews, R. A. j- Smiths.
Gunner Job V aines, R. A. J
Gunner David Ewart, R. A.
Corporal W. Greenhill, R. A., Ai^ dtUmt to Lieut Murphy.
Corporal William Black, R R
Corporal W. "i Blaah, B,.^\ABsidanU to the
PriTate Edra- | Engineer, ton, R R J
PriTate William Edrington, R R
Bombardier Thomson, R A. Gunner Harrison, R. A. Gunner Robert Tur- 1
ner, R A . V Miners,
Gunner James Hay, R. A. J Gunner Thonuis i
Jones, R. A. > Smiths.
Gunner Gosling,R. A. J Gunner JohnWaddell, R. A., Trum-
peter. Corporal Benjamin -k
Usher, R. R I Assistants to Private Archibald | the Engineer,
McDonald, R A. i
Seamen.
William Frew, Carpenter. Thomas Jones, Quartermaster, Thomas Fhipps, Boatswain. John Haigh, Sailmaker, Thomas Phillips. George Davies. Thomas Hunter, Jun. William Denbigh. •
Ellas Lowrie, Quartermaster. Benjamin Qiheon,BoatstO€un^sMate, Thomas Hunter, Sen., Sailmaker. Thomas Booth. Charles Nash. Thomas Batty. William Benson. George Liddel.
222
NASRATIVE OF THE EDPHBATES EXPEDmOX.
|
CHAP. XTI. |
' EUPHKATES.' David Raerdon. Franklin Hofinan. John Malta, Steward, John Waters, Cook. Hadji Mahomed. Brown 1 John OTarke J ^'^• |
' TlORTB.' Dubek Sacho. |
|
f |
Giacomo, Cook and Baker* Vecenzo, „ „ Antoni, „ „ James Whittaker, BoHer-makcr* |
Mr. John Bell* left in charge of Port William.
A flat-boat, more like a raft indeed than an ordinary boat, had been built in order to deposit a supply of coal in advance of the steamer ; and our preparations being thus completed, our vessel was put in motion for Triri-trip. a trial-trip to Bir on March 16. On this first attempt the engines failed to do their work, but a more satis- factory trial was made the next morning. About midway between Port William and Bir an island leaves only a narrow channel on its western side, and the current being rapid at this spot, Mr. Fitzjames and a few men were landed on the island, provided with a hawser, to guide the vessel in case her rudder should fail to act at this critical place. Thus prepared, the * Euphrates ' passed into the opener part of what were now her own waters, at full speed, and displajring the British and Turkish ensigns, she saluted the castle and town of Bir as we approached. Our 21 guns, in honour of the Sultan, were duly returned by such artillery as the place afforded, and the scene altogether was most animated ; for the walls of the town, as well 83 the surrounding chalk hills, were covered by the population, old and young. Our intercourse with the
* Mr. John Bell afterwards went to Abyssinia, where he entered the service of Theodore^ and was killed whilst defending the king against assassins.
ASCENT TO THB TOWN OF BIB. 223
people before we returned to Port William gave us ^^^' some idea of the surprise which the ascent of the "-
steamer against the current had caused them. There ^^„ was no idea in this part of Asia that iron could be Kf^^ *® made to float ; therefore, until actually in motion, it was believed that the steamer must be resting on the bottom of the river. Once off, however, and stemming a rapid current, their astonishment knew no bounds ; ' ten EngUshmen,' they said, ' could take their town,' and they declared that thrfact of our having immolated two Turks on board had given us this supernatural power. It was owing to this power, they asserted, that one child had fallen upon another from the top of a minareh without any injury to either.
Having given the good people of Bir an opportunity Last day of visiting the steamer whilst lying opposite to their wuiiam. town, we returned to our station in order to make our final preparation for the descent and survey of the great river.
224 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER Xm.
DESCENT AND SURVEY OF THE RIVER EUPHRATES FROM PORT WILLUM
TO ZELEBI.
CHAP. In the short ascent and descent just accomplished,
YTTT
_;^1 . we had a practical proof that our steamer promised to 2^ realise Mr. Laird's expectations, and this trial had
steamer ^ ' _
quite a cnyen US everv hope that she would be equal to all that would be required of her during the almost imtried navigation of the great river.
The inspiriting scene at Birejik, and the conviction
that we had taken the first step in extending those
commercial relations which Great Britain has so long
maintained with her ancient ally the Sultan, gave us a
feeling of confidence in our success, which was shared
by our whole party. We descended the river to a
suitable halting-place a httle below Port William, and
with somewhat reduced speed, and every precaution,
we passed along the bold chalk hills on the Mesopo-
tamian side, at the rate of 13 or 14 knots per hour,
leaving behind us that double stream of broken water
with which we have been familiar since 1814, when
the first river-steamers were introduced on the Clyde
and Forth.
Suppriue To the people of this part of the East, however,
bythe the powcrs of steam were utterly unknown. After
iJ^motive ^^^^ vi3UB\ cxclamation of ' God is great !' they com-
vo^^' pared the magical propulsion of the vessel to a gigantic
DESCENT AND SURVEY. 225
arrow, ' driven ' (they said) * through the water by a chap.
XIII
supernatural power, throwing one half of the river on ^ — r-^ this side, tlie other on that.' Their excitement was beyond description, whilst we, as we approached our anchorage, were quietly dining in the cabin with some friends who had done us much service ; and thus closed this eventful .day, which formed the one bright spot between the toils and trials of the preceding eleven months, and those which were still to be met during the further progress of the Expedition.
We proposed to carry on the descent and survey of Projected the river simultaneously as follows : the longitudes and ■'^®^* latitudes of the principal points were to be determined by Lieutenant Murphy : a chain of triangles was to be carried along the river by Captain Estcourt, and a map of the country laid down by him also : and the river was to be most carefully sounded and examined. We had also to decide where depots of coal should be placed : these practical arrangements occupied our first evening. The next day was one of most active em- ployment. At an early hour Lieutenant Cleaveland and Mr. Charlewood started to survey the first portion of the river. Mr. Fitzjames was preparing to raft coals for the use of the steamers. Lieutenant Murphy was engaged in determining the astronomical points, whilst Captain Estcourt continued the survey, with his wonted energy, in order to map the country from Bir to Beles.
The prosecution of these important objects by iso- lated and almost unprotected parties on the water may appear to have been almost too hazardous, but in a feeling no one instance was any anxiety or reluctance felt by denc« ^ any one of those so employed. Constant intercourse by p^®^*^^-
Q
226 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, night and day with the people of the country, during
XIII.
eleven months, had removed any feelings of imeasiness which the officers and men might at first have enter- tained. I was probably less free from anxiety than those under my command, remembering, as I did, the treatment which I had formerly more than once ex- perienced from the Arabs ; though at the same time the fact that no temptation of arms, stores, or even gold, had in any one instance induced them to break faith with us since we landed, seemed to justify my present confidence in them ; besides, instead of having to deal, as formerly, with a soUtary individual, we were now well-armed, and accompanied by a strong and to them a mysterious if not a supernatural power. Steam The suddcu appearance of a strange machine cutting HBuperna through the water, and moving against wind and jj^er. current from one centre of operations to another, could not fail to impress the minds of a superstitious people ; — we felt that, in descending the river under these novel circumstances, we ran no kind of risk, so long as the prestige of our supernatural powers re- mained in full force. I should mention that we were commencing the survey with only one steamer, the * Tigris ' not being yet sufficiently advanced to accom- pany her consort. The Our progress the next day was not propitious. After
resumes going ou favourably for some hours the steamer ran Bceutl^ aground, and that so firmly that it became necessary to lighten her to get her afloat. Before that could be accomphshed a violent storm of thimder, lightning, and rain came on, and continued without intermission for nearly three days. It was not until March 22 that
WHIRLPOOL OP GOURLOU. 227
the descent was resumed, and we reached a place chap.
XIII
remarkable from the passage which the river here — .-L- forces for itself through a barrier of diflScult hills. This spot is tlie whirlpool of Gourlou, and close to it the river makes a bend almost at a right angle as it passes a perpendicular mass of rock. It was with some anxiety that we approached this singular spot, although we had the advantage of Mr. Charlewood's, previous examination of its diflSculties, as well as of the thought- ful action of Captain Estcourt, who, as we neared the Passing dangerous spot, appeared on the crest of the rocks, po^iV waving his hat to warn us to keep clear of the whirl- ^ ®"' pool. We found this far easier to do than we had anticipated ; the vessel answered her helm most per- fectly at the critical moment, and we brought up below the village of Gourlou, to which the coaUng raft followed, amidst the exclamations of wonder of the people.
Next day the boats surveyed the river as far as the jeraboiis. picturesque castle of Jeraboiis, whither the steamer and raft followed them immediately. Here we found a supply of coal, which our horses had brought from Port WiUiam, and received at the same time the satis- factory intelligence that the ' Tigris ' was almost ready to join us.
In the neighbourhood of Jerabohs, we met the sungsand Shook, a tribe of Arabs who are still armed with the the shook primitive weapons of slings and huge clubs. At first ^^^ they approached us with a feehng of alarm, which gradually lessened, and was soon exchanged for one of confidence and cordiaUty. Here our two surveying parties joined us, while the boats were again sent on
q2
228 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, in advance. We walked over the plain to the ruins
XIII.
— .-^ of Membidge (once HierapoUs) ; there we found an (oDce extensive aqueduct, a temple believed to have been toH^" dedicated to Aterates, and other remains. We were accompanied by some Arabs, of whose friendly dis- position we had an accidental proof by finding their arms (about thirty stand) in the tombs of the cemetery where they had deposited them before joining us. Friendii- On our rctum to the steamer, we learnt that she had
ness of the , ••^i-i* ^ i -i ai
Arabs. been visited dunng our absence by a good many Arabs, some of whom came ofi* to her on inflated skins, while all evinced a friendly feeling towards us. They often caused us much amusement by their remarks. It was our invariable custom to lay-to on Sunday, and to allow some of the men to go on shore in the boat Wlien ready to return we heard their * If you please send the boat,' which was construed by the Arabs into ' Eblis ' (Devil)^ and they expressed their surprise to Eassam that all these Englishmen bore the name of Eblis — or Satan. Their attempts at pronouncing our English names were signal failures. Chesney was the only one they could manage. This they pronounced very well, but Cleaveland was Clayoion; Charlewood, Challoot; Fitzjames, Fissajirnmis; l&sconvty Scoot (or smooth), <S:c. Next morning we received a favourable report from Kftiat-en- Licutcnant Cleaveland of the navigabihty of the river Nejm. ^ fj^j. ^ Kalat-en-Nejm. Just as we were starting we perceived that the Arabs, who had shown symptoms of gi^eat alarm, were actually praying to be delivered from the terrible danger witli which they believed themselves to be menaced. The first part of this day's descent was carried on with unusual care, the river
TUNNEL OF KALAT-EN-NEJM. 229
being wide and comparatively shallow, but it was easy chap. work beyond this to Kalat-en-Nejm, the Castle of the
Stars. The boats preceded us under Mr. Charle- wood and Mr. Hector, who had come to us from liis own vessel, the ' Tigris,' for orders. The Castle of the Stars occupies an important place in connexion with Arab astronomy, and with us it had the additional interest of being the spot where the tunnel was supposed to exist beneath the river. The castle itself is tole- rably perfect, with the exception of a single breach made during its defence by the Arabs against the Turks. It occupies a commanding position, overhanging the water.
The passage beneath the river was naturally our Tunnel leading object, and a descent of some 200 stone steps Eupbi^. with inclined slopes at intervals, on the Arabian side, brought us into a spacious subterranean passage, which we followed, expecting to come out in Mesopotamia. Ere long, however, we found it blocked up with loose stones, which we proceeded to clear away, and suc- ceeded ill opening a practicable passage, which we followed until the dangerous state of the roof warned us to go no farther. Our expectation of crossing into Mesopotamia under the Euphrates was thus disappointed, nor were we able to ascertain wliether the tunnel is continuous, from side to side. Arab tradition makes it pass the whole way under the river and come out at Serren Tower, nearly three miles from the left bank.
The surveying parties joined us at this place. Lieu- Sorren tenant Cleaveland returned witli a description of the river as £Eir as Kara Bambuge. On the left bank we discovered a raised causeway extending from the neighbouring hills to the river, where it terminates
230 NARRATIVE OF TIIE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, in solid masonry, with sloping buttresses down to ' — • — ' the water, affording facilities for landmg-places at dif- ferent heights up the river. In these sloping walls are recesses, apparently in connexion with the land- ing-places, as if to afford storage for goods. We traced the paved Eoman road for a short distance from this well-known zeugma (ford)y and we found corresponding though less perfect remains on the Arabian side of this passage ; the communication may have been carried on by a bridge,* or by means of boats only.
We had much friendly intercourse with the Arabs of the Aniza, as well as of other tribes at this place. They came off frequently and most gladly to visit us, paddling on their inflated skins to the steamer, which they began to regard as a friendly though most incom- prehensible monster.
As soon as our astronomical observations at ICalat- Descent cu-Nejm werc completed, we resumed the descent with the intention of reaching Kara Bambuge on the 30th. But when we were about six miles from our destination, a bank of pebbles, which had been completely hidden by the turbid waters of a violent flood when Lieutenant Cleaveland had passed down in his boat, suddenly interrupted our voyage, and not only caused serious delay, but gave rise to two or three stirring incidents connected with Arab life.
Not anticipating any lengthened delay, I walked on in advance of the steamer to examine the opening through the rocky banks of the river at Kara
* Captain Lynch found the abutments of this bridge, when passing at a later period up the river during the season of low water.
THE STEAMER AGROUND. 231
Bambuge. This pass is extremely striking ; on tlie chap. left bank huge masses of limestone rock rise per- >.
pendicularly to a great height above the river, which ^^*^' is here about 400 yards broad ; whilst on the right Bambsgo. bank equally grand and lofty chalk rocks are sur- mounted by the ruins of an extensive castle, which has been built in successive stages, from the water's edge to the summit of the rock, while the river below flows round the foundation of tlie castle, nearly at right angles to its previous course.
This passage was examined with much care with reference to our vessel, to which we then returned. In the meantime the state of the river had become more unfavourable to our progress. A rush of water had driven the steamer up the side of a bank of steamer pebbles, which we saw must be moved somehow f^und. or other before she could be floated. All our ener- gies were at once turned in this direction, and a large body of Arabs was employed to dig out our vessel. This operation, however, proved to be quite the labour of Sisyphus, for the current replaced the bank of pebbles almost as fast as it was removed. In this way, still hoping, and as constantly disappointed, things continued for some time, until our work was unex- pectedly interrupted.
Hassan Agha, sheikh of the Beni Said, had been invited to our steamer, and had received a fowling- piece in return for his kindness, shown previously to our surveying parties. He was sent back to liis tribe in our boat, little expecting that this piece of attention would be attended by any unpleasant consequences. I was returning from taking some bearings with Lieu-
t
232 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, tenant Murphy, when several shots near the landing- -- . '-- place caused us to hasten our steps with most un- comfortable forebodings, which were increased on our meeting Dr. Heifer, and hearing that our boat had been attacked and that Sheikh Hassan was killed. We hurried forward, our little band being joined by Mr. Hector, Corporal Greenhill, and three of our men ; and found upwards of fifty Arabs preparing to attack the vessel, and at the same time almost cutting off our communication with her. Under these critical circumstances we took the bold course of advancing to clear a passage, which movement was seen on board, and a blank airtridge was at once fired from one of the steamer's 9-pounders, which ended the affair by causing the Arabs to scamper off.
'Mr. Fitzjames now joined us, and from him we re- ceived an explanation of the whole thing. Sheikh Hassan's tril^e, the Beni Said, had a long-standing blood-feud with the Fahal Arabs, who, seeing their enemy landing from our boat, seized this opportunity of revenging themselves upon him. Hassan endea- voured to save his life by flying back to our protection, and as the boat shoved off, the undaunted Sheikh loaded his recently-acquired piece and returned the fire of his enemies. About twelve shots were fired at her before she could get out of reach, three of which struck her, though, as it proved, harmlessly, and the Sheikh escaped unhurt. If our blank cartridge had not produced a decided effect, our guns were provided with canister as a last resource ; but having ascer- tained satisfactorily tliat no hostihty was intended towards us, I accompanied Lieutenant Murphy on
An Arab blood-fend.
r^^K^' SK
I,
EFFORTS TO EXTRICATE THE STEAMER. 233
shore in the afternoon, while he continued his observa- chap.
XIII
tions from the neighbouring high ground.
Our undivided efforts were now given to the ex- Difficulty trication of our steamer, which we saw could only aflS;. ^ be accomplished either by manual labour or by the flooding of the river. For the latter we should have had to wait ; we consequently adopted the more laborious but immediate course. More than a hundred Arabs were employed in digging out the steamer, and, as soon as this was all but effected, we endeavoured to swing her round by means of pulleys and chain-cables. Many alternations of hope and anxiety attended our efforts during periods of storm, heavy rain, and fine weather, accompanied by rapid flooding of the river at one time, and by its formidably swollen waters at another, which at times floated the steamer, and swirled her round so rapidly and so violently as to break her chain-cable. This happened three times at least. On one of these occasions, which took place on April 2, the vessel, being at that moment afloat, was suddenly swirled round with such impetus that the cable was snapped in the middle, and in spite of all our exertions she was again forced up the side of the bank and almost out of the water. Fortunately a new hawser had lately come from the ' Columbine,' and we redoubled our exertions, that we might be in a position to make use of it. About a hundred Arabs were again employed, in addition to our own people, to remove the bank of pebbles, in which the recent flood had literally imbedded our steamer more firmly than before.
This state of things continued for a fortnight, when
234 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, our happiness on finding that the increased depth of * — t-^ water had quietly floated us, was sadly damped by a
The raft very Unexpected misfortune. Mr. Fitzjaraes had been merged, paying US a visit as his raft passed downwards towards Kara Bambiige, a little short of which place she got upon the shoal, and he found her full of water, and all her provisions floating about. The river rose so much during the evening of the 17th as to sweep her off the shoal and enable him to bring her up under the chalk bank. His account of her ultimate fate shall be given in his own words : —
' The river here ' (at Kara Bambiige) ' makes an abrupt turn to the right, the current setting along lofty chalk cliffs into a deep bay, terminating at a rocky point from which the current sets to the opposite shore at another rocky and perpendicular cliff. Here the river is about 400 yards broad, and the remains on each side seem to show that a bridge at one time stood here. At the first point all our efforts to get the flat-bottomed boat off being unavaihng, we stood forward and endea- voured to place bags of cotton between her and the rocks, as she swept along them at the rate of seven knots. But with one crash, she sent her whole bow up, and down she went head-foremost in seven fathoms water, leaving barely time, by means of the cotton bags in the first instance, and eventually by the boats, to save ourselves. We saved, however, two casks of pro- visions, but my clothes were lost, and, what was still more serious, fifteen tons of coals for our voyage — the mooring-chains — also a number of rings, the jumpers, and some fireanns also.'
Mr. Fitzjames landed about five miles lower down.
PASSAGE OF KARA BAMBUGE. 235
and walked up to join ua with the unwelcome intelli- chap.
geuce of the loss of the coal-raft, which was a serioua . ,— I—
one to the Expedition. We were just entering the passage wliere this accident had happened. The stream Bend &t is somewhat rapid at this spot, where it is shut in Bi^b%fl. between the fine white cliffs, already described, rising to the height of 150 feet on both sides ; but its depth, and width of 400 yards, made it perfectly easy for a steamer, with the exception of one abrupt angle at the termiuation of the passage, where any failure of the
rudder might have caused this bend to be as fatal to
us as it had been to theraft. We, however, were well
prepared for the difficulty, and passed through it safely
at half-speed, bringing up near the ruins of the castle
of Kara BambiJge, wheie we were joined by the ' Tigris,' joined by
as well as the diving-betl and the pontoon-rafts. I
arranged that these should remain here for the moment,
in the hope of recovering some of the cargo of the
wrecked raft, while we steamed the remaining nineteen
' TigpJB.'
236 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, miles to Beles on April 19. The 'Tigris,' with the flats and rafts, which we found very useful in supply-
^!^ ^ ing the wants of the steamers, and keeping up commu- nication between them, shortly joined us at this place. With the exception of the trying delay above Kara Bambuge, and the loss of our coals, everything had hitherto gone on well. Constant communication with Port WilUam had been kept up by means of our horses, wliich from time to time brought us coals, provisions, spare cables, and even money, with perfect safety. Our friendly relations with the Arabs had been uninterrupted, save by the temporary misunder- standuig about Sheikh Hassan ; and Captain Estcourt's survey, and Lieutenant Murphy's astronomical points, had been carried thus far most satisfactorily. The ruined and interesting city of Beles became, as it were,
101 miles a frcsli poiut of departure for us — 101 miles had been carefully surveyed to this, the nearest point to Aleppo, the ancient port, in fact, of that city — and the place which, in our sanguine expectations of the speedy es- tablishment of the Euphrates Line to India, we had already fixed upon as its modern emporium of com- merce. It had been arranged, therefore, that the steamers should make some short stay at Beles, and that they should be met there by some of the principal merchants of Aleppo, who were anxious to give us this proof of their appreciation of the benefits they antici- pated from our enterprise. Our vessels also required painting and some adjustment of their fitments, while we were also anxious to carry out some experimental trials of their speed and powers, for which this part of the river was very favourable.
!
ii
THE ANIZA ARABS. 237
A great change had taken place in Beles and its chap. neighbourhood since it had been visited by our survey- ^ — r— ^ ing parties a short time previous to our arrival. It was at that time quite deserted : — now we found more than a thousand tents of the redoubted Aniza tribe Campof pitched in the centre of the rich pasture-lands by which it is surrounded, while another formidable tribe, the Beni Said, were encamped on the opposite side of the river. These circumstances did not cause us to make any change in our plans, and on April 20 we com- menced clearing the vessels for painting. Thunder- storms and heavy rain prevented us from doing much before the 24th, when the proceedings of the Arabs attracted our anxious attention. Our confidence in them, which had hitherto been unshaken, was now somewhat staggered Corporal Greenhill, of the Sap- Corporal
. Greenhill
pers, wliile employed in planting a station-flag in robbed, the vicinity, was suddenly seized by three mounted Arabs, who jumped from their horses, put their lances to his throat, and proceeded to cut oflf his brass coat- buttons, which they no doubt took for gold. Having obtained the coveted booty, they released the Corporal, and hastened away lest they should be seen from the steamer. Such conduct could not be left unchecked^ and Captain Estcourt, Lieutenant Cleaveland, Mr. Fitzjames, and fourteen men moved up the adjoining ravine, where they encountered a strong party of the Aniza, apparently preparing to retreat, although this was evidently only a feint ; for the Arabs, who were mounted on horses and dromedaries, endeavoured to intercept our party, and would probably have suc- ceeded in doing so, had not Captain Estcourt at once
238 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, perceived their purpose, and with admirable presence • — ^-1- of mind, made a rapid demonstration in light infantry order, v^hich checked them, and gave his own party time to reach some gromid, rather difficult of access, and within range of the steamer's guns and rockets. This affair, which had threatened to be serious, ended without anything more than an accident to Mr. Fitz- james, who, in his extreme zeal, broke his ankle in leaping from a height The Aniza, however, kept us all on the alert ; for as they chose to remain at a short distance from us, we were obliged to keep a party on the elevated ground close by to watch their movements. Command- The proximity of this commanding ground to the
ing (ground , j . .
at Bdes. stcamcr caused some uneasmess among our men. As soon as I became aware of this feeling, I endeavoured to show them, practically, that the disadvantage caused by moderately elevated ground is not by any means so great as is generally imagined. I sent Sergeant-major Quin to such a position behind the crest of the hill as he would naturally have occupied, to enable him to fire down on our decks, when every one on board at once perceived that he could not effect this without exposing his head and shoulders quite as much as those of a man firing at him over our own bulwarks would have been, which fact may be exemplified by supposing a line to be drawn from the crest of the hill in question to the top of our bulwarks ; or by a line fix>m the cavaher of a fortress to the crest of a besieger's battery, which, although a good deal lower, is not subject to any prejudicial command. Nor was there, in reality, any serious disadvantage in this respect at Beles, since our steamers had ample means of repeUing any attack
VISIT FROM THE ANIZA SH£IKHS. 239
that could have been made ; but our great object was chap. to avert any threatened hostilities on the part of the
Arabs, and to establish friendly relations, based, if possible, on a formal treaty of peace.
With this end in view we endeavoured at once to open amicable communications with them, proposing to follow these up by inviting the principal Sheikhs to visit us, and to take advantage of this intercourse to impress them by a display of our power. We opened negotiations through Mr. Bassam, who, finding the Arabs well-disposed, spent two or three days in their camp, accompanied by Mr, Elliot. His intimate knowledge of the Arab character gave him great advantages, and he stimulated their curiosity to see our wonderful steamships, feeUng sure that their astonish- ment would effect all that we wished. On the 28th, Mr. EUiot (himself half an Arab) returned to us ac- companied by three Aniza chiefs with eight attendants, who were at once accommodated with a tent which we had prepared for them on shore. We purposely post- Display of poned their visit to the vessels until the next day, in "* order to treat them, after dark, to a discharge of Congreve and Whale rockets along the surface of the river, which, owing to its width at this place, was particularly favourable to a grand display of the rushing power and increasing speed of these fiery missiles. This exhibition overcame our guests com- pletely, and impressed them with a feeling of helpless inferiority. The rockets occupied them till supper- time, and on setting food before them, with spoons and forks, they said, ' God supplies us with fingers — ^why do you give us metal hands ? '
240 NARRATIVE OP TUE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. On the following morning their wonder and admira- '^ — r-^ tion were increased on their being shown every part of both vessels, and these feelings reached their climax, when returning on deck, after the bewildering sight of the engines, they were treated to some discharges of canister from the 9-pounders, as well as from some of our smaller brass guns, which produced such an effect on the surface of the noble river as would have been very striking even to those well acquainted with the effects of artillery, while to the Arabs it suggested the utter impossibility of any attempt to resist such tre- mendous power. The result of this exhibition was all that we could have wished. The Aniza chiefe them- selves proposed to render our present good understand- ing permanent by means of a treaty, ^nd consented to go into the necessary details forthwith. A formal Treaty meeting for this purpose therefore took place between Aniza. US in the evening, and a treaty of amity and permanent peace between the government of King William IV. and the important Arab tribe of the Aniza was discussed and finally agreed upon, its basis being the establish- ment and maintenance of commercial facilities on friendly terms.*
Their chief (Jedaan) was much pleased, and repeated to rae constantly, ' We are friends to the English ; I have made you my father, you must take care of me.' The favourable disposition of our guests towards us induced us to go a step further, and to press them to give up their long-cherished hostility towards the Shamar, an almost equally powerful Arab tribe. At
* This document; no doubt, still exists in the archives of the Foreign Office.
TBIAL OF THS STEAMERS. 241
first there did not seem to be the smallest prospect of chap. success, for my well-meant efforts were met by the ^ ^^ , Aniza Sheikh with the curt and apparently conclusive reply, ' That they were bom to be enemies, and must continue to be so.' A long discussion followed, with very little effect, until I remembered the existence of a passage in the Koran inculcating peace and goodwill, !**«• ^ • which Bassam was able to repeat to them in pure AnuAand Arabic — ^which carried our point, and peace was agreed upon by the Aniza and Shamar tribes, and cemented by a marriage, for which I at otice provided a limited dotation on the part of the British Government. We thought it better to let the Aniza chiefs depart without presents, which, under existing circumstances, might have lessened the high position which we had so care- fully maintained.
Our friendly relations with the Arabs thus happily restored, our ordinary operations were resumed, with renewed confidence and satisfaction, on May 2. We lightened the * Tigris ' in order to make trial of her speed and power, which were both satisfactory, although in neither case was she equal to her consort the 'Euphrates,' which stemmed the current in the most satisfactory manner on the following day. During our stay at Beles we had had the pleasure of a visit from Lieu- tenants Crawford and Henderson,of the Royal Artillery,* from Aleppo. They now left us, taking with them two of our engineers, Hurst and Clegg, and the carpenters, Jackson and Watt, who had all rendered such important services that their departure was felt to be a most serious loss : but their time had expired,
* Each has now the rank of Major-General.
R
Castle.
242 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHEATBS BXPEDFTION.
CHAP, as had also that of a very valued visitor, Mr. William
XIII .
^ — r-^ Estcourt, who had joined the expedition at Bir, and remained with his brother, sharing in his and our occu- pations up to the time of our halt at Beles. .He too now left us, carrying with him the sincerest good wishes of our whole party. • TigriB' Everything was now ready for the prosecution of our
to Ja'ber dcsccnt, and the * Tigris ' steamed down the river (on May 4) to Ja'ber Castle, the ' Euphrates ' preparing to follow, on the arrival of a supply of provisions firom Aleppo, on the 6th, Passing the minareh, and the three remaining towers of the ancient castle of Beles,* she followed the tortuous course of the river, between low banks clothed with tamarisk and forest trees, in- habited, at this season of the year, by thousands of Arabs. We brought up close to the Tigris, a little way below Ja'ber. A drawing by Major Estcourt gives a most faithful representation of the so-called Giant's Castle, and its lofty minareh, with Tell Marabbou (the Saint's Hill) in the background. Tradition, as given to us by the neighbouring tribe the Weldah, ascribes these works to Alexander the Great, who crossed the Euphrates at the adjacent passage at Thapsacus. But another account states that the castle was constructed by an Eastern conqueror named Ja'ber, to support his invasion of Egypt. Its position would no doubt have given it great importance in early, and even in later times, when it, as well as many other strongholds, was . besieged and eventually taken by Nur-ed-din. Up to the time of Benjamin of Tudelaf it was a very im-
• Plate L. p. 213, vol. ii., ' Expedition to^Euplirates and Tigris.' t Sela Midbamh, vol. i. p. 80 of * Benjamin of Tudela,' by Asher.
.
THAPSACUS AND BUINS OP SUSA. 243
portant place. It reminded us strongly of the citadel chap.
XII I
of Aleppo, although it is something loftier, and rather ^ — r-^
more extensive.
Two hours' steaming, between banks richly wooded with tamarisk, allspice, and jasmine, brought us to El-Edhen, near which place the stream is separated by some islands into three branches, one of which was fol- lowed by the * Tigris,' while the ' Euphrates' took a diffe- rent course, under the impression that we should find it a more fevourable one for her ; but she ran aground, and we had to recall the ' Tigris ' to give us assistance — and thus both vessels were delayed, just as we were ap- proaching some places of deep interest. We had to empty the boilers to lighten the vessel, and thus got her afloat ^ain the next morning, when all hands were occupied cutting wood for the subsequent part of our voyage.
We resumed the descent on the 9th, keeping one of Ruined the boats ahead, to facilitate our examination of the ju^a. river, and give notice of any obstruction. In this way we carefully examined the banks on either side of the memorable passage of Thapsacus (now Hamman), and also the extensive ruins of ancient Susa, and other sites of interest which we visited during our thirteen miles' steaming to Bacca, where we brought up, notwith- standing its low and swampy situation, which on the score of health was very undesirable. It is, however, a place of some celebrity in Moslem history, although our researches next morning were scarcely repaid by the discovery of a spacious cistern, the remains of a mosque, the ruins of Haroun-el-Raschid's palace, and the extensive walls which once surrounded this city of
R 2
244
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. XIII.
ArrivHl at Amram.
Barter ii-ith the Arabs.
the Khaliph El-Mansoiir, whose name has been de- sen^edly handed down to us in connection with astro- nomical observations, and with his promotion of the science of astronomy itself by the measurement of a grand base-line on the plain near this city.
The astronomical position of Bacca having been fixed by Lieutenant Murphy, we steamed eleven miles farther down the river to Amram, which is situated on its left bank, about halfway through the forest of the same name. On tlie riglit bank is an elevated plain bounded by a range of chalk hills. Here we again met some of the friendly Weldali Arabs, but, to our surprise, they scampered away from their tents in the wildest manner, owing, as we soon learnt, to an alarm caused by the Effadees, who had crossed the river on skins to seize their bullocks, as they thought, at our instigation.
An assurance of friendship was quickly given by Bassam, * on his head and beard,' which solemn invoca- tion induced them to return ; and we followed it up by offering them bread in token of friendship, in which spirit they received it, and ate it with evident relish and confidence. Eather more than a hundred of this tribe were present on this occasion, and these, having secured the alliance of the powerfiil strangers, uttered shouts of defiance against the Effadees, who were look- ing on from the opposite bank of the river.
We thouglit this a favourable opportunity for produc- ing some of the goods, which we had brought out for the purpose of opening a trade by barter, but our negotiations were inten-upted by the ludicrous circum- stance of one of our guns being accidentally turned towjirds the Arabs. The moment they perceived this,
. ^
I
I t
FOSEST OF AMBAM. 245
all bartering; was at an end, and in less than five chap.
XIII.
minutes all had fled. The Sheikh afterwards returned *- — r-^ alone to ask why we desired to hurt them, since they were quite ready to be submissive, and to give us wood or anything else they possessed ; and thus a good un- derstanding was re-established, and barter at once resumed with the greatest avidity by the Weldahs, and their example would have been eagerly followed by their enemies the Efiadees, had it been practicable.
The facilities for laying in a store of wood induced Wood-
cutting on
us to remain another day at Amram, and to send shoro. parties on shore to cut it ; and our men, while so em- ployed, found themselves, although close to the vessels, in a singularly isolated position ; for so dense and tangled was the undergrowth of the forest that, although guided by the sounds of numerous hatchets and billhooks, some of the party were almost unable to find their way from one steamer to the other — a distance scarcely over a hundred yards.
Whilst all hands were busy cutting and stowing away on board as much wood as possible, Mr. Aius- worth and I made a walking excursion to some ruins in the neighbourhood. We had not proceeded far before eight Arabs, each armed with a long gun in addition to their spears, favoured us with their company. Thinking this suspicious, we took the pre- Threat- caution of separating from each other — Ainsworth, with attack. his usual coolness, keeping at such a distance as would enable us to give each other mutual support. Moving capeiia. on thus cautiously, I suddenly saw an unexpected enemy close to us — a cobra-capella just rising on his tail, and ready to dart his fangs into my companion, iu
246 NARBATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, which no doubt he must have succeeded, had not one of
XIII
>- , -^ the Arabs, with admirable dexterity, struck the point of
his spear through the creature's head. This feat effected a double purpose. It freed us from the cobra,* and led to a friendly understanding with the Arab, who, pleased with himself, was ready to meet our advances ; and, mutual confidence being thus established, we went on to their tents, which were in the neighbourhood.
On recrossing the river to our steamer, we heard that the day's work had been most satisfactory, and the descent was therefore resumed next day, the flat- boats preceding the two steamers as usual — ^'Tigris* leading the way. The river was deep and fitvourable to us, its width varying from 250 to 300 yards. On The the right bank we had a continuation of the elevated
Hteainert
dwicend plain already mentioned, terminating in a range of thefurest. hills, whilst ou the left was the luxuriant forest, tenanted by innumerable nightingales.
After steaming about 45 miles, we stopped under
the left bank, where we met the large tribe of Affadell
Arabs, fully 2,000 strong, who crowded the river's
TheAflfR- banks at first, but retired as we came near. On
dell Arabs. . . « , «• /• • i i -
receivmg from us reiterated assurances of friendship, they took courage and returned, and came quite close to the vessels. They were all armed with very short muskets and spears, and had also short swords : they made an urgent but of course ineffectual appeal to us, for assistance against tlieir enemies on the opposite side of the river. Having obtained another good supply of wood, we steamed rapidly towards what
* Tho skin of this rcptilti may be seen in the Zoological Society's col- lection.
ZELBfil, THB CITT OF Z£NOBU. 247
would have appeared to be a mountain barrier, if it chap. had not been evident that the boats had found a * — .-^^ passage through it, which we followed, our wonder increasing as we advanced. It seemed as if we had entered one of Nature's grandest works. On each side of the river, perpendicular cliffs rise to a height varying from 300 to 500 feet ; the Euphrates has here, for the third time * during its course from Bir to the ocean, found its way through a mountain barrier, and had brought us to the so-called 'beetle-browed' precipice of Balbi.f
Our descent was continued from hence, with httle variation in the scenery, for about five miles, when we brought up at the remains of Halebi, and opposite to Haiebi and those of Zelebi. The latter were once the summer residence of Zenobia ; and the ruins present the form of an acute triangle, having its base resting on the river, whilst its sides climb the accUvity of a conical hill, and terminate at its summit in a small acropohs. It was defended by walls flanked by strong towers, which, as well as the pubhc and private buildings, were all constructed of fine gypsmn (which abounds along the Euphrates), and are as sharp and fresh as if they had been recently built. J
While we were examining these most interesting ruins, a sye (messenger) brought from Aleppo the Government despatches of April 1. Our previous
* The other two instances are at the Whirlpool of Gourlou (p. 227), and at Kara Bambuge (p. 235).
t Voyage of Gasparo Balbi.
X A fuller description of the ruins of the city of Zenobia, including its extensive necropolis, temple, and palace, will be found in the * Expedition to the Euphrates and Tigris ' (vol. ii. pp. 417, 418).
d
248 NARBATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, letters had all been enoouraging. But I now learnt, ' — f^ from Sir John Hobhouse, that, owing to the heavy ex- penditure, it was decided to break up the Expedition on July 31. We were totally unprepared for such intelligence — for such a blow, in fact; but feeling that it would be useless, and very discouraging, at a moment when all was prospering, to promulgate this unlooked-for decision of the Home Government, I thought it best to keep it to myself, and to continue the service with, if possible, such increased exertions, as might, by their success, secure not only the support of the country, but the approbation of His Majesty's Government also. I made these expectations known to the President of the Board of Control, and then hastened our departure as much as possible.
249
CHAPTER XIV.
DX8CEKT COlfTINUED FROM ZBLEBI TO I8-0ERIA — LOSS OF THE 'HOBIS' STEAMER — PROSECUTION OF THE DESCENT.
Looking back upon the mountain barrier through chap.
. XIV.
which we had been safely guided by our careful helms- ' — r-^
man and skilful officers after leaving Zelebi, it seemed as impassable, and as completely closed, as it had appeared to us when approaching it from the western side. The range of hills which is thus pierced by the river, comes from the heart of Arabia ; and having nearly touched Palmyra, it runs in the direction of Zelebi, and extends again beyond the Euphrates almost the whole way across Mesopotamia. Leaving this singular passage behind us, 4]^ hours' steaming Amreat brought vis within sight of Deir. The river in this ^^^' part of its course is wide and deep, but very winding. Deir, although consisting chiefly of mud-built dwellings, is a very pretty Uttle place, and contains about a thousand of these houses, which are all square and flat-roofed, and placed on a conical hill rising from the right bank of the Euphrates, from which it is insulated by a canal cut from one part of the river to another along the south side of the town. We were afraid that this canal would not afford sufficient depth of water for our larger steamer ; the ' Tigris ' therefore preceded us to ascertain this fact, but finding that all was
250 NAKRATIVB OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, right, the ' Euphrates ' followed her to the town of Deir,
XIV.
where a salute was fired, and the ensigns of Turkey and Great Britain displayed. We found Deir admirably suited for a permanent station, and made arrangements at once, therefore, for the establishment of depots of coal, timber, charcoal, and stores at this place. I also despatched a messenger from hence with a map of the river as far as Deir, for the satisfaction of the President of the Board of Control, and then resumed the descent on May 18.
We steamed, under the most favourable circum- stances, to the mouth of the Khdbiir, which, as the
River Araxes of Xenophon, possessed especial interest for ua.
Arie^ ^' In tlie angle formed by the junction of the KhAbiir and Euphrates, and near the right bank of the former river, we traced the ruins known among the Arabs as Abu- Serai, once Kerkisyah, and the supposed Carchemish of Scripture.* On the opposite bank are the remains of Calneh,f probably the Calanne of Nimriid; and between these two sites are the ruined abutments of the bridge by which the army of Trajan, in all pro- bability, crossed the river when on its march to Lower Mesopotamia. We ascended the Elidbur, in the smaller steamer, as far as was practicable, but found the water fail much sooner than was at all to have been expected, taking into account the length of the river's course from the vicinity of Nisibin. Much disappointed, we had to return, putting about somewhere near the spot where Xenophon must have crossed in his downward march. We anchored alongside our consort late in the evening, and pursued our course next morning as far
* Isaiaby x. 9. t Genesis, x, 10.
DESCENT TO COBSOTE. 251
as the town of Ma'den, where our steamers again dis- chap.
played the British and Turkish ensigns, to the great ^ ,-1-'
delight of the inhabitants.
Our short halt at this place was full of interest to us. A walk of five miles towards the south brought us to the extensive castle of Eahabah, the Eehoboth of the Bahabah Ammonites.* It stands on the crest of an isolated hill, ^©both. and its remains are remarkably fine and massive. Ketuming to our steamer we resumed the descent, the river carrying, as it had done lately, a mass of water, by a winding course as far as Salahyah, where, in addition to remains of ancient walls, there is a fine gateway, and an extensive castle. Here we pur- chased, as rapidly as possible, a supply of wood, and hurried off, intending to bring up for the night at Anna, little anticipating the fatal results of our speed and activity.
The weather had been very fine and promising during the forenoon, but a change took place soon after Com- we left Salahyah, and the atmosphere became thick of storm. and gloomy — ^but not more so than had been the case occasionally of late, especially on the preceding evening — and we proceeded on our voyage without the slightest imeasiness being felt by any of our party. At 1.35 P.M. on May 21, both steamers left the bank with the full expectation of reaching Anna that afternoon ; but only twenty minutes later, just as we were rounding the bold chalk diffs on which stand the prominent ruins of Corsote, an ominous change took place in the weather. Clouds, much more threatening than any we had yet seen, appeared and spread rapidly,
* Qeneais; xxxvi. 37, ' Saul of Rehoboth.'
i
CHAP.
XIV.
252 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPSDITIOy.
accompanied, as Mr. Ainsworth remarked, by a po tentx>us fall of the barometer. Still we did not feel at particular alarm, believing that the storm would pa by, as it had done of late on previous occasions. Bi we soon found that this was not to be the case now.
In tlie course of a few minutes, dense masses of blac clouds, streaked with orange, red, and yellow, appeare coming up from the WSW., and approaching us wit fearful velocity. To secure the steamers against wh; promised to be an ordinary strong gale, immediate] occupied all our attention, at the very moment that \i Airivid at wcrc arriving at the rocky passage of Is-Geria. Lidee<
Is-Geria.
we were already so close to it that there was not su ficient space to round to and bring up ; consequently, became most prudent to steam onwards, the result < which I now give in the words of Mr. Fitzjames : — * A squall was observed on the right hand, which was thought would not reach us ; but just as we wej going tlu-ough the rocky passage of Is-Geria (whic however, we did not see, as there were three feet < water over tlie rocks), the squall was observed comii in our direction from the WSW. with great rapidit and looking Uke a large cloud of black mud. As soon i the rocks were passed, the " Tigris '* made signal to pic up oiu* berth, and she rounded by us to the left ban As our broadside came to the stream, we were take with the violence of the hurricane, which made i heel considerably ; but being . too near the " Tigris," became necessary to back our paddles, to avoid fatal coUision. It was blowing tremendously, and tl air so thick with sand that we could scaiv^ly see. C our bow touching the bank, Charlcwood and a niunber
Mr. Fite- james's account of the humcaiid.
LOSS OF THE 'TIGRIS' STEAMER. 253
the crew jumped on snore, and by the greatest exertions chap. got an anchor out, which, with the full power of • — r-^ steam, held her till two chain-cables were got out, and secured by means of jumpers driven into the ground ; but with all this she dragged, and would have gone down at her anchor had the storm continued — for the waves were then four feet above the bank of tlie river. When at its height, we saw the poor " Tigris " fall off from the shore, and drift past us at a fearful rate, broad- side to the wind, and heeling over considerably. She soon disappeared in the cloud of sand, but on looking astern, soon after, I saw her in a sinking state, with her bow already imder water — in fact going down, and it is believed that, on reaching the bottom, she turned keel upwards.'
Such is the account written, on the instant, by the mp. lamented Fitzjames. The following is that given also wood's at the time by Mr. Charlewood, who says : * At two ^^^ P.M., the men having dined, all was ready for proceeding ^""«*^*- down the river, and little did we imagine, when shoving off from the bank, how few of our party would ever tread the ground again. Having steamed downward for about a quarter of an hour, the clouds towards the SW. b^an to assume an alarming appearance. The wind, which was before from the SE., gradually fell to a light breeze. These ominous symptoms caused us to furl the awnings and put things in order, and the "Tigris" appeared to be doing the same. The clouds by this time were quite terrific. Below the darkest of them, there was a large col- lection of matter, of a dark crimson colour, which was rolling towards us at an awful rate ; and at the
254 NAKRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, moment we were looking most anxiously for a signal * — r-^ from the " Tigris " to secure to the bank. But we were then passing through the first belt or mass of rocks at Is-Geria laid down in the Colonel's chart, and she was therefore obliged to postpone the signal — a fatal delay I But the instant the rocks were passed, the signal was made, and we rounded to, to endeavour to bring the vessel's bow up the stream, and the " Tigris," then a little ahead of us, did the same. But, at this very moment, a tremendous gust of wind came on us, and nearly laid us on our broadside, at the same time hurling both against the bank with an awful crash. The water forced the w^indows open forward, and would have speedily swamped the vessel, if the carpenters had not rushed below to close the openings. Only one resource now remained — namely, that of securing the Vessel, for if she sheered off, all would be lost. For, day being turned into night by clouds of sand, the hurricane, which was carrying the latter, would blow the vessel so far over that she must fill through the windows. But the necessary exertions were forthcoming at this trying moment. With some diflSculty a part of the men got ashore, and having succeeded in placing three anchors in the ground, with the cliain-cables secured by means of jumpers driven into the earth, and the engines working at full speed, the "Euphrates" was saved by these means, notwithstanding the raging storm. But it is believed by all the survivors, tliat she must have experienced the fate of her consort, if the height of the raging storm had continued a quarter of an hour longer.'
To revert to what occurred on board the ' Tigris,'
THE STOBM AT ITS HEIGHT. 255
where I was myself, immediately before this fatal chap. catastrophe. She had barely cleared the rocks, and ' — r-^ the officers and men were exerting themselves to the utmost to bring up, when the hurricane increased in violence. The larger steamer was then nearly at the spot marked B, and the smaller one at that marked A, Po«»tion of from whence, in order to bring up, she rounded to at the bank. As usual, there were two men at the bow, ready to jump out, each with one anchor. But, just as she touched the bank at c, with some violence, the storm caused her to recoil so rapidly, that only one of the men managed to jump ashore before the vessel was driven before this whirlwind of the desert, which, being now at its greatest height, soon laid her on her beam-ends. Our hopes rested on bringing the vessel's head to wind, by means of an anchor and the use of low of th«
, •Tigris.*
the engine ; but both failed, and, to add to our diffi- culties, the fires were extinguished by the raging waves, which broke over the deck, and through the skyhghts, while, owing to the vessel being quite on her side, she was held as if in a vice, the water all the time rushing in through the windows both forward and aft, notwithstand- ing the efforts of the Messrs. Staunton and Lieutenant CJockbum ; and in this state, broadside to the wind, we were driven, like a helpless log, directly towards our consort. But the collision — ^which seemed inevitable, and which would probably have been fatal to both vessels — ^was avoided by the presence of mind of Lieutenant Cleaveland, who, at imminent risk to his own party, backed his steamer so as to allow us to pass, and thus averted this additional danger ; whilst the * Tigris ' drifted helplessly onwards, and both vessels were
'
t
r
I
256 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, instantly lost to each other in the more than Egyptij
XIV . .
^- — .-^ darkness of this calamitous day.
The ' Tigris's ' brief career being now almost at i end, Lieutenant Lynch reported her to be sinkin and the word was given for all to endeavour to sa^ themselves ; when, at that critical moment, a gleam light showed us the bank at a little distance, and tl hope of reaching it caused the order to be given * stand fast.' It was but for an instant : in a fe
'Tigris* seconds all was total darkness again, and in less thj
goei to the , , ^ ,
bottom. another minute the * Tigris ' was going to the bottoi with every individual at his post. The deck was alreac quite under water, when again a momentary glea of light once more showed us the bank of the river n far off ; and in my own case it is gratefully remembers that this enabled me to take the right direction, nc withstanding the darkness, which had returned instantl What I recollect about this eventful moment is, that diving out of the vessel my back was caught by tl ridge-rope of the deck-awning, so that we must alreac have been seven or eight feet below the surface ; ai whilst endeavouring to get dear, I felt some one at n back, but we were immediately parted by the violen of the waves.* Continuing what was actually divii more than swimming, my feet touched the ground in cornfield. Up to this moment I had been in tot darkness, but at this instant, turning my eyes towar the river, I had the last glimpse of the ' Tigris ' ke upwards.f In addition to Mr. Thomson and myse
* As well a^ we could make out, this was Mr. Thomson. t A8 the Tigris went down in her natural position, and was afterwa] found with her keel uppermost, it is supposed that on touching \
LIMITBD BA19GE OF THE HUBBICANE. 257
the two Stauntons, and Messrs. Lynch and Eden (both chap.
JvXV*
greatly exhausted), were saved, besides nine of the men, viz. : — William Benson and E. Laurie, seamen ; gurnvors. Corporal Fisher, of the Eoyal Artillery ; Vincenzo and Giacomo, Maltese cooks ; and four natives.
We had scarcely time to become conscious of our short du- safety, when darkness vanished, and the waves, which hurricane, had carried us some feet above the river's bank, and landed us in a cornfield, had ceased to exist. All became calm and clear as before, and barely 25 minutes had seen the beginning, progress, and termina- tion of this fearful hurricane. This whirlwind of the it« desert had swept across the river onlyj extending but eaSent. very little above and below the spot where the steamers were — ^which singular fact we soon ascertained from Mr. Hector, who was with the surveying-boats about ten miles below the scene of the disaster, and who experienced nothing more than a moderate gale.
With our assistance. Lieutenants Lynch and Eden, although most painfully exhausted, managed to crawl on ; and we had gone but a little way along the river's bank, in search of the other vessel and her crew, with feelings more excited between hope and fear than can be described, when, to our inexpressible relief, we saw Messrs. Charlewood and Ainsworth approaching us, with some of their men. This at once told us that all The was not lost, and we soon had the delight of learning tes^'^safe! that the ' Euphrates ' had outlived the tempest. With
bottom first with her bow on going down, she was whirled round by the force of the current, and settled down bi^ttom upwards, as she was found ; and I must have seen her at this very moment, and before the waves bid her from our sight.
258 NAKRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP truly grateful feelings, yet feeble in proportion > — r— ^ the mercies we had experience we now met th< friends, whose joy and thankfulness almost equalled c own. Very brief, however, were our greetings, there was work — and most pressing work — to be doi and those we had just met hastened on, in tlie hope rescuing some of our missing companions.
We were barely able to reach the 'Euphrat where everything on board showed how nearly i also had been lost, and feeling at the moment qi sanguine as to the safety of those who had been board the ' Tigris,' I met Madame Heifer with qi a joyous feehng, and even repeating the distich, vous voulez danser, je vous prie de le faire commencer thus conveying to her the erroneous impression, wh was my own also at the moment, that all were sa nor was this expectation unreasonable, since, with exception of Lieutenant Cockbum, all were g< swimmers, and unlikely to have failed in reaching No sum- bank. But when the next morning brought no tidi Yors found. ^£ ^^^ missiug fricuds, we became deeply anxio Arabs were despatched to make enquiries everywh and our men and boats were employed in search the islands, and examining the banks on both side the river, while Mr. Hector made particular enquirie and near El-Kaim. But two days passed, and still tl: was no intelligence, and our hopes were now reducec the possibility of finding one or two of our compani in some of the Arab tents.
During this period of anxious search and enqu the weather was marked by repeated storms of thun and lightning, and on May 24 we had a shower
OUB POSITION COXSIDKBED. 259
hailstones, some of which measured 14 inch in dia- jchap.
XIV
meter, and weighed 120 grains each. On the 25th, ^ — r-^ the bodies of Mr. Sader and of the sapper Macdonald bodies were recovered, and were buried by their commander, near Erzi, on the evening of the same day.
All hope of finding any survivors being by this time Board of nearly given up, it became my duty to think of the *'°^""^' future ; and I at once assembled a board of officers, consisting of lieutenant Cleaveland as President, and Messrs. Charlewood and Fitzjames as members, who were instructed to go into all the circumstances attend- ing our late disaster. After a most painstaking exami- nation for five hours, and after going carefully into all the evidence that could be obtained, it was decided that every possible effort to save the * Tigris ' had been made, and that the conduct of all on board had been most praiseworthy.*
Having thus done justice to the past, and to those 9"'" p****" wTio were no more, the best course to be followed, under our present altered circumstances, became the all-absorbing consideration. We were already far advanced on our mission, being, in fact, midway between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean, with the choice before us of either endeavouring to reach the latter, or of retracing our steps to the former. Had this question stood alone, the decision would have been easy and simple ; but it was far otherwise, and many considerations of a complicated nature had to be taken into account. One of our steamers, all our money, and a large portion of our party, had been lost ; and it remained to be seen whether the moral
• On Jiroount of want of ,<4p;i<*p, these proooedinjrs are not privt^n here.
8 2
260 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXFEDITIOK.
CHAP, courage of the survivors would be too much shaken to ' — r-^ permit them to prosecute the enterprise with the
requisite zeal, especially when they should be made ac- quainted with the instructions fix>m home to terminate our labours at once, which instructions had (as I have already stated) been hitherto kept in abeyance by me. I now felt that this was the moment to make them known. ContinnA- I think that it will readily be admitted that, taking enton>riM» iuto Consideration our isolated position in the heart dead on. ^£ Turkish Arabia, the task of carrying on the enter- prise was one fraught with much anxiety and respon- sibility. Great as these were, however, and heavily as they weighed upon me, the conviction that I was fulfilling an imperative duty to our country exceeded them all ; and my determination to proceed, if pos- sible, was immeasurably strengthened by the way id which the disheartening intelligence I had to com- municate was received. One and all, oflScers and men, at once expressed themselves not only ready, but anxious to second me in every way, and volun- teered to forego their Expedition pay, in order to lessen our expenses as much as possible. So supported, by such a set of men, I no longer hesitated what course to pursue. The prosecution of the enterprise was decided on. •Tigris' Before, however, resuming the survey, it became
cpew sent i • j i -nit
homo. necessary to deade on the painful but unavoidable step of sending home the survivors of the unfortunate * Tigris.' Motives of economy — considering the views of the Government — rendered this necessary. It was accordingly settled that this decision should be carried out on reaching Anna, and we then prepared to
. LOSS OF THE EMPEBOR JULIAN'S FLEET. 261
resiuue the descent, pending the arrival of funds chap. fix)m Bagdad. We collected some of the arm-chests ^ — r-^- and other things which had been washed ashore from the ' Tigris,' and up to the last moment of our stay in this part of the river, our exertions were unremitting to obtain traces of the lost ones, and to find oiu: poor little vessel This spot, so fatal to us, had been so in a Lobb of tho far greater d^ree to the Emperor Julian, whose fleet juiuST and part of his army were, according to Gibbon, lost *^ at this point of his descent towards Mesopotamia.*
Our efforts to find the ' Tigris ' were quite ineffectual, and we quitted Is-Geria on May 25, and steamed past El-Kaim under circumstances as favourable as possible, after so great a calamity. In the afternoon we ap- proached Bava, where my faithful pilot during my solitary raft-expedition (Getgood) came on board. This oetgood was to me a great and very unexpected pleasure, ^^"^ since his death had been reported ; whereas we foimd him ready to renew his forma* services, and to help us in navigating with a steamer those waters which he had BO zealously assisted me in surveying. We gladly received him on board, and under his guidance passed safely through the partially-broken waters which then concealed the Eocks of Karablah ; then skirting the town of Eava, our steamer was brought up at the outskirts of the long town of Anna. ]
We expected that this place would eventually be- short stay come a permanent station, and we gladly availed our- selves of our temporary halt to celebrate our gracious
* According to AmmianuB Marcellinus (lib. xxiv. cap. 1), 1,000 Tesselfl were lost on that occasion. These hurricanes are^ howeveri extremely rare on the Euphrates.
262 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Sovereign's birthday, by firing a royal salute on ti
-T . ' ^ morning of the 26th, and treating the Arabs to
display of rockets after dark. Here we also mac
all such arrangements for continuing the survey i
were practicable until funds should be sent us fro
Bagdad ; and from this point the survivors of tl
Despntch 'Tigris' departed for England, bearing with them
**" ' desimtch to the Government, giving an account of wh
had occurred, which afterwards appeared in the ' Lond<
Gazette.' Under the impression that this despatch, ai
what followed upon it, will not be devoid of intei'est
the public, even after this lapse of time, I venture
insert them here : —
Letter from Colonel Chesney to Sir John Hobhouse
* « Euphrates *' Steamer, Anna, May 28, 1836
Colonel ' ^'^' — ^^ ^^ ^^^^'^ feeUiigs of the deepest regi-et thai
sir*j°Hob^ d(3 myself the honour of informing you that the " Tigri house. steamer was totally lost* during a hurricane of i describable violence, which, after the short struggle about eight minutes, sent a fine vessel to the bottom five fathoms f water, and deprived His Majesty fifteen valuable men, with five natives in addition.^
' My reports up to the 17 th instant at Deir will ha informed you that all was going on as successfully the most sangiiine could possibly desire : we found t Anil)s well-disposed, and quite ready to form dep
* It appears, by letters subsequentlj received from Colonel Cheu and more recently fVom Lieutenant Lynch, that there is a prospect of property of the 'Tigris' steamer being eventtially recovered. — Ii Board, February 1838.
t The last depth sounded : we since found three- and-a-half fath< on oiio side tlie spot, and fire fathoms on the other side.
l lAnt of tho oflicers and men who perished, p. 270.
PASSAGE OF IS-GERIA. 263
for us of wood, charcoal, bitumen, and lignite-coal — all chap.
XIV.
met with in abundance, and tried with complete success. ^^
* In addition to these marked advantages, the survey ^^^^^^^ has been carried 509 miles down " tlie great river," wiiich seemed in all respects favourable ; in short, all was continued prosperity up to the afternoon of the 21st instant, when it pleased God to send the calami- tous event, of which it is my duty to give a feeble sketch.
' A httle after 1 p.m. on that melancholy day, the flat-boats being a httle ahead, and the " Tigris " heading the " Euphi'ates," a storm appeared, bringing with it, high up in the air, clouds of aand from the west-south- west quarter. At tliis moment we were passing over the rocks of Ls-Geria (deeply covered), and immediately after we made the signal for the " Euphrates" to choose a berth and make fast — which was done more as a matter of precaution, on account of the difficulty of seeing oiu: way through the sand, than from apprehension that the squall would be so terrific.
' The " Tigris " was immediately directed towards the bank, against which she struck without injury, but with so much violence as to recoil about eight yards, leaving two men on the bank who had jumped out to make fast: the wind tlien suddenly veered round, drove her bow off, and thus rendered it quite im- possible to secure the vessel to the bank, along which she was blown rapidly by the heavy gusts — her head falling off into the stream as she passed close by the *' Euphrates," which vessel had been backed opportunely to avoid the coUision. The engines were working at
1
«
264 NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHBATBS EXPEDITION.
CHAP, fiill power, and every endeavour made to turn t
xrv w , * ^ vessel's bow to the bank ; one anchor was let go, I:
chwn^ the heel of the vessel made it impossible to get t
UoUurajt ^^^^^ ^^® ^^** S^® ^^ *^^^ nearly broadside to t wind, with the engines almost powerless, and the wav rising to the height of four or five feet, forcing th< way in at the windows.
^Lieutenant Cockbum, the Messrs. Staunton, a some of the men, made ineffectual attempts to keep < the water, for the fate of the vessel was already decide and the forepart of the deck being under wat Lieutenant Lynch came to report that the ^' Tigri was smking, and the word was immediately pass for all to save themselves. At this very instant, momentary gleam of light faintly showed the bank the apparent distance of eight or ten yards ; and there seemed every probability that the stern woi touch it before she went down. Lieutenant Lye encouraged the people to remain steady until tt reached the land.
*A11 were on deck at this critical moment; so: were chnging to the ropes of the awning, the padd boxes, and funnel, but the majority were close to I tiller, and all behaving with the most exempL obedience, until the vessel went down all at on and probably within half a minute after we had s< the bank for an instant. Lieutenant Lynch, who i at my elbow, dived out imder the starboard rid rope at the moment when there was about four f water on the deck, and I had the good fortime to , clear in the same manner (through the larboard sic and also to take a direction which brought me to
'i
FATE OF THE < TIOBIS ' STEAMER. 265
land, without having seen anything whatever to guide chap, me through the darkness worse than that of night. >, , '-^
* When it cleared a little, I found around me ^^^^ Lieutenant Lynch, Mr. Eden (both greatly exhausted), ^ ^J^- Mr. Thompson, the Messrs. Staimton, and several of
the men ; the hurricane was already abating fast, and, as the distance from the vessel to the shore was very short, we indulged the hope that the rest of our brave companions had reached the bank lower down. For an instant I saw the keel of the "Tigris" uppermost (near the stem) ; she went down bow-foremost, and having struck the bottom in that position, she pro- bably turned round on the bow as a pivot, and thus showed part of her keel for an instant at the other extremity ; but her paddle-beams, floats, and parts of the sides were already broken up, and actually floated ashore — so speedy and terrific had been the work of destruction.
• From the moment of striking the bank until the ** Tigris "* went down, it scarcely exceeded eight minutes, whilst the operation of sinking itself did not consume more than three minutes ; indeed, the gale was so very violent, that I doubt whether the most powerful vessel, such as a frigate, could have resisted, unless she was already secured to the bank ; and for this, in our case, there was httle or no time, as it was barely possible, in the position of our consort, to make fast and save the vessel.
' I had little or rather no hope that the " Euphrates " eould have escaped ; but the intrepid skill of Lieutenant Oeaveland and Mr. Charlewood enabled them to get out two anchors in the very nick of time, and by the
2G6 NARBATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, united means of two hawsers, and the engines working
XIV . . .
*-\, ' " at full speed, the vessel maintained her position at the
chwnrr hank uutil the storm abated (as the enclosed letter from HobLnjje ^Japtain Estcourt* will explain more fully) ; and as it required all the power of a 50-horse engine in the case of the " Euphrates " to keep her hawsers from snap- ping, I infer that the 20-horse of the " Tigris " would not have been sufficient to enable her to keep, the }>osition of the bank, even if the officers had suc- ceeded in securing her alongside of it.
^ Lieutenant Lynch and Mr. Eden continued cool and collected to the last minute, nor were any efforts wanting that skill or presence of mind could suggest, to save the vessel in the first instance, and the Uves in the second, when the former had failed ; nor could any- thing be more exemplary than their conduct, and that of all on board. Scarcely a word was spoken, not a mmmiu- was heard ; and death was met with that exemplary degree of intrepidity and resignation which have been displayed by every individual throughout the arduous and trying service in which we have been engaged since January 1835.
' Having already given a faithful account of the short but eventful period (of about twelve minutes) occupied by the beginning, progress, and termination of the hurricane, I will conclude the painful part of my task by referring you to the enclosed return of the names of the valuable men who have been lost to His Majesty and their country for ever. Very different was the result when a similar and less violent gale sent my little vessel to the bottom of the river in 183l,f for Ihad not
• Daied May 26. t See p. 02.
FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR THE * TIGRIS/ 267
then the misery of deploring the loss of a single Ufe, and chap. my Uttle schooner was again afloat, and continuing the — ^-^ descent, in less than twelve hours; whereas all our chMnty eflbrts have as yet failed even to find the remains of HobhOT«e« the vessel ; not a ripple or the shghtest trace of the un- fortunate " Tigris " marks the spot where she went down. But our search has not yet terminated, and if she should be found without having been dashed to pieces, I shall take measures to recover her, with the assistance of the diving-bell and other means, especially as there are very valuable instruments on board, in addition to the hull and machinery, and more particularly as the Arabs are well-disposed.
' I am happy to say that the survivors of the Expedition remain as much unshaken as ever in their confidence regarding the final success of the undertaking, as well as the manifest advantages, facilities, and cheapness of this line of commimication. The hurricane has been, it is true, a most trying and calamitous event ; but I beUeve it is regarded by all, even at this early day, as having no mcwre to do with the navigation of the Euplu'ates in other respects, than the loss of a packet in the Irish Channel, which might retard but could not put an end to the intercourse between England and Ireland.
' We are therefore continuing our descent and survey to Basrah ; hoping not only to bring up the mail from India within the specified time, but also, if it pletise God to spare us, to demonstrate the speed, economy, and commercial advantages of the River Euphrates, provided the decision of Ministers shall be, in the true spirit of Englishmen, to give it a fair trial, rather than abandon
â– f
268 KABRi^TIYE OF THE SUPHEATES EXPEDITION.
j CHAP, the original purpose in consequence of an unforea
^ — r-^ and, as it proved, an imavoidable calamity. ^^y ahave,&a
plw (Sig^^) 'F.RChbsney, Colonel,
^ Commanding the Euphrates Expediti
< The Right Hon.
< Sir John Cam Hobhouse, Bart and G.C3.'
Letter from Captain Estcourt to Colonel Chesney}
* <^ Euphrates*' Steamer, Anna, Maj 26, 18d
Captain ' SiR, — ^Thc vcry unexpected nature of the hurricj
Colonel in which this vessel was taken on Saturday last, **°^^" 21st instant, and the extreme violence with whicl was accompanied, renders it necessary that I she acquaint you with the circumstances as they affec this vessel ; and that I should lay before you the o duct of Lieutenant Cleaveland and Mr. Charlewo j to whose imited exertions and skill, supported by i
active exertions of a most willing crew, added to I great power of the engines with which this vessel propelled, her safety is to .be attributed.
' Scarcely had we cast off from the bank — where, midday on Saturday last, we, in company with 1 " Tigris," had stopped to take in wood — ^when a dei doud of dust was seen to rise high into the air on 1 right bank ; for some minutes it was doubtful whetl it would not pass off to our right, but soon it v apparent that it would be otherwise. Preparation v made to meet the squall, by furling the awning, &c* soon as the " Tigris," which was leading as usual, h cleared a reef of rocks, at this season &r under water, i
* This lettor being Captain Estcourt's, I think it better to leave i it was written by him.
ij-
CAPTAIN bstcourt's beport. 269
made a signal to choose a berth and to make fast ; hardly chap.
XIV
was the signal answered when the gale began. The ^ — r-^
" Tigris " was rounding to, to bring up to the left bank ; E^SSitto the " Euphrates " followed ; but as we neared the bank, ^^^^ I saw that the Tigris could not stem the gale and current ; she had failed to make the bank, and was falling off with her head outwards.
*The "Euphrates" was compelled to back her paddles to give room — an operation, as you will at once see, full of danger, for it could scarcely be ex- pected that she would afterwards be able to gather way upon herself against the violence of the elements and current. However, the " Tigris " having passed across our bows, we worked our engines with all their power. The vessel took the bank with some violence, but did not recoil off; instantly Mr. Charlewood was on shore, followed by many men, bearing a hawser and light anchor. Within a few seconds, a second anchor and chain-cable had been got ashore, and these were followed rapidly by a second chain-cable and anchor. Lieutenant Cleaveland kept the engines working the whole time, notwithstanding which the vessel drove ; however, the gale was soon over, and the vessel safe.
* The density of the cloud of dust excluded from my view the " Tigris " from the moment she crossed our bows. Mr. Fitzjames, in the midst of the storm, reported to me, first, that she was upset, and then that she had gone down. As soon, therefore, as our own dangers had ceased, and that the " Euphrates " was secured, I sent off Lieutenant Murphy, to render what assistance he might be able to the crew of our consort, whilst Mr. Charle- wood pressed me to allow him to go by boat ; this I did as soon as it was safe.
270
NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. * Of the remainder of the melancholy tale of
XIV . .
^ — .-^ total loss of the " Tigris," and the few who escaped
SSJirt to fi^^ ^ shelter on board the " Euphrates/' you are yo
Chwnw ®^^^ ^^^^ acquainted. I have only to repeat, that
Lieutenant Cleaveland and Mr. Charlewood, and ind<
to the whole crew of the *' Euphrates," the high
praise is due.
* I have, &c. (Signed) ' J. B. Bucknall Estcourt,
' Captain 43rd Light Infant
' Colonel Chesney, R.A.*
^ . Return of Officers and Men belonging to the Euphrc
^hose who Expedition who were lost by the sinking of
in the ' Tigris ' Sieam-vessel during a violent hurrid
'^''^'' on May 21, 1836.
}f
»
RAJnS. AND KAXB8.
Lieut. R. B. Lynch
lieut. Robert Cockbura Mr. Yusef Sader . Mr. John Struthers Acting Sergeant Richard Clark Gunner Robert Turner James Moore . Thomas Jones . „ James Hay Private Archibald McDonald benjamin Gibson John Hunter Oeorge Liddel Thomas Batty Thomas Booth Abbo . Wasoo Jacob John . Maimeh Pedros
RBMABKS.
(Signed) II. RLOsa>:
r21st Bengal Native Infa I (Passenger).
Royal Regiment Artille
Interpreter.
Engineer.
Royal Regiment Artille
Royal Sappers and Min<
Seamen.
Natives.
Lynch, Lieut. Indian Nav
INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE INDIA BOARD. 271
CHAP. XIV.
Extract of a Letter from Sir John Hobhouse to Colonel Chesney^ dated India Boards \st June^ 1836.
' I HAVE received your letters of the 18th of March sirj. Hob,
house to
and tlie 16th April, with their enclosures. Coionei
' They have been submitted to the King, and have afforded to His Majesty the highest satisfaction ; I may say the same both of my colleagues and myself, and I trust that you and the officers under your command will believe that your exertions are fully appreciated by His Majesty's Ministers.
' My last instructions directed you to terminate your labours by the end of next July, as by that time all the funds already granted by Parliament, as well as those for which it is my intention to apply, will, according to the estimate with which you have fur- nished me, be exhausted ; but as your last letter informs me that during the month of July you will be employed in ascending the river, I am not willing to bring the Expedition to a close until you have completed the enterprise, and I have therefore now the honour to inform you, that you are authorised to continue in your command, and pursue the objects of your mission, until the end of January next (1837).
* By this arrangement you will have ample time to complete the surveys of the river, and to repeat (perhaps more than once) the ascent to Port Wil- liam.'
272 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. The following was the reply to my despatch of >J^i^ May 28 :—
Letter from Sir John Hobhouse to Colonel Chesney.
< India Boud, Jal729, 1896.
Sir J. Hob- * Sir, — ^I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt Colonel of your letter, with the enclosures, dated May 28, 1836, c eaney. f^^ Anna, convcyiiig to me the afflicting intelligence of the loss of the *' Tigris." I scarcely need assure you that His Majesty's Ministers most sincerely deplore the loss of the brave men who perished on that occasion, and that they sympathise with you in deeply regretting that so great a calamity should have occurred at a moment when the complete success of the enterprise seemed all but certain.
' I have also to convey to you the King's condolence on this melancholy event : I am commanded by Fis Majesty "to assure you of the deep and heartfelt concern with which he has learned the serious disaster which has befallen the Expedition ; " and I am further commanded to say the King " cannot express in terms too strong his sense of the extraordinary and admir- able exertions and presence of mind which were dis- played by all concerned on this trying occasion, or his admiration of the firmness and exemplary re- signation with which those whose death he and their country have to deplore met their fate. His Majesty sincerely rejoices, however, at your providential escape, and that of Lieutenant Lynch ; and he gives the credit which is so amply due to you, on whom rest the conduct and responsibihty of the enterprise, for the strength of mind and the perseverance which every part of your despatch breathes, as His Majesty
SIB JOHN fiOBHOUS£'s LETTER. 273
does also to your gallant and zealous associates, for the chap. corresponding spirit which rises superior to difficulty ^ — r-^ and danger." ^^f^"^
'Having thus conveyed to you, in His Majesty's ch^"^. own words, the King's sentiments on this occasion, I have to add that His Majesty's Government wish to express to you their entire approbation of your conduct; and, although the official account of the formal examination into the causes of the disaster has not arrived, that they are fully satisfied that every possible exertion was made to prevent the catastrophe. I beg you also to believe that you have determined wisely, and in accordance with the spirit of yoiu* last instructions, in resolving not to abandon the enterprise, but to attempt the further descent and reascent of the river with the remaining steam-vessel.
' In order to afford every facility for the transmission even of a second mail, should you be so fortunate as to make two ascents from Basrah to Bales, I have this day requested my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to direct the Admiral at Malta to send the " Tartarus " or some otlier vessel to the Orontes or Alexandretta a second time, there to await the chance of your repeating the experiment ; and I beg to add, that you may en- tirely rely on receiving every support and encourage- ment which maybe required for a fair trial of the great enterprise in which you are engaged.
' I request you will communicate to the officers, and to the others under your command, the extreme satis- faction entertained by the King's Government at ^very part of their proceedings.
' I have, &c. (Signed) * John Hobhouse.'
T
Hobliouse.
274 NABRATIYE OF THE EUPUBATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. 'Augusts.
^ . ' ^ * The Lords of the Admiralty have this day signified ^^?2J^ to me their compliance with my request respecting the • Tartarus.' second voyage of the " Tartarus " to the mouth of the Orontes. — (Signed) J. H.'
The following despatch to the President of the India Board made known the completion of the descent of tlie Biver Euphrates : —
Letter from Colonel Chesney to Sir John Hobhause.
^ Basrah, June 19, 1896.
Coione * Sm, — ^The accompanjring letter makes known the
to Sip J. arrival of the " Euphrates " steamer at Kuma yesterday afternoon, as this one will do the completion of the descent and detailed survey, as far as tliis city, without anything whatever to regret, except the calamity which befel the " Tigris," and rendered the best efforts of our men useless. But the Expedition is still quite as efBcient as you could desire ; and having this day terminated our labours for the present, I could not refuse the gratificxition to myself, and all who have supported me so zealously, of firing a gun for each year* that the King has been spared, and long may His Majesty reign over his most devoted subjects !
' I shall not, on this occasion, do myself the honour of making anything hke a lengthened report on the state of this river, which is much more favourable in all respects than I had ventured to hold out to Govern- ment^ or even to hope it would prove.
* The Sultan's, French, and Austrian colours were displayed at the same time.
• FRIENDLY RELATIONS WITH THE ARABS. 275
* With one exception, we have not had anything like ^,S^*
annoyance from the Arabs, who were, on the contrary, — • — '
Colonel
quite ready to supply us with timber, which has been Chesney used exclusively since we left Jabar, and they received Hobhouso. in return either money or goods in barter. The selection of common Glasgow and Manchester goods was sought with the utmost avidity, so much so that money was discontinued latterly ; and it is quite dear that the merchants of England have only to send our manufactures either up or down this river to have a ready sale, and are, as far as I can see, hkely to increase to such an extent as will benefit the nation; Nor is it at all difficult to deal with the Arabs. Almost invariably, they either sought our protection or friend- ship, and in several instances tribute was offered willingly ; therefore there is Uttle reason to fear that judicious management would secure peace and quiet- ness throughout all future voyages.
'We are now about to prepare for an ascent with the Indian mails on the 9th of the ensuing month. Depots of coals, &c. are already placed, and altogether the task will be a light one compared to what we have just effected. No descent or ascent, in future, can be attended with the same degree of difficulty. This vessel came over the ground usually at the rate of twelve miles an hour. The river was extremely muddy, and the shoals extending under the thick water, for some distance above the islands, could not be perceived ; added to which the river, owing to a winter of unusual severity, has been falling eVer since we left Bales, and therefore to have run aground might have been fatal ; but, happily, the skill and zeal of Lieutenant Cleaveland,
T 2
276
NABRATITK OF THE EDPHBATBS EXPBDmOK.
the vessel safely through everything ; and she will
ch^roej return with the waters clear, the current more mode
HobhmLe. ^^^ ^^^ assistance of charts, as well as knowled^
the river, which in reality is all that was wanting.
' I have the honour to be, &c.,
(Signed) ' F. R. Chesse
' The Right Hon.
' Sir John Cam Hobhouse, Bart and O.C.B., &e. ' Presideiit of the Board of Control, Ac, £c.'
""^o"*' At the British Eesidency of Marghil, near Ba; a memorial of the loss of the ' Tigris ' has been ere and placed in the quadrangle, with an inscri( setting forth" the names of those who perished the account of the disaster. The author has beer formed of this gratifying circumstance by Mr, I Workman, late of Bombay, who saw the mem' when at Basrah during the Persian campaign of H
I
277
CHAPTER XV.
DESCENT AND SURVEY CONTINUED, FROM ANNA TO BASRAH.
TuE officei-s of tlic lost * Tigris ' were now ou their way to chap.
XV
England, carrying despatches to the Home Government ; - — ^^--^ and we had restored our remaining steamer to a state ft^^Annl of eflSciency by May 31, and resumed the descent of the river on that day. We passed between the left bank and the string of islands lying opposite to Anna, which at this date extended for at least three-and-a-half miles along the river, and then brought up to receive some stores from the town, which were coming off in our own boats.
During the delay thus occasioned, Mr. Ainsworth and I set off to explore ancient Anna. While so employed I had an attack of ague, which at that time returned periodically on alternate days, and one pecuhar strange symptom of which was a total loss of memory on my ague, part. While tliese attacks were upon me I could not remember my own name, nor the termination of any word that I was in the act of writing when the fit came on ; and poor Ainsworth also suffered from this in- finnity. Seeing that the attack was imminent, he urged my return on board, with which I complied ; and finding that our stores had arrived, I gave the word to start, and we steamed down the river, with- out the faintest recollection on my part that one of our number had been left behind.
278 IfABRATlTE OF THE BDFHBATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. Wc had a rapid ruD of 67 miles, steaming dur • — r^— ' the earlier part of the day, along that extraoi nary sweep made by the river, almost in the fo of a circle, between precipitous hills as far as Fat-B Huddhr-Elias, which I have already described.* could scarcely however, by any description, give idea of the interesting and varied scenery throii wliich the voyager on the Euphrates passes betw( Scenery that singular spot and the town of Hadisa. 1 Uwiiia. picturesque islands — tlie richly-wooded banks — i frequently recurring villages peeping through the tn alive with busy men and women clad in tlie grace Ai'ab costumes, with the el^ant aqueducts and cres ing waterwhecls — *11 combine to form a series pictures scarcely to be equalled on any river in the woi Iladisa stands on one of the above-mentioned islan and here we brought up. Dinner followed, as usi when om' day's work was over, and in passing by Ai worth's cabin-door, I tapped, as was ray custom, to him know that it was ready — when, for the first tin Mr. AiM- I recollected that I left hira absorbed in the round tov misted. aid Other niins of Anatho ! The fact that he was n some 68 miles behind us, without food, clothes, moni or any resource save active limbs and an undauni spirit, caused me painful anxiety. My first impulse v to steam back again, but, considering that this con would occupy two days, and that we might miss c geologist at one of the bends of the river, I decided Hcud a messenger to meet him, and to remain whi we were until we should hear of him. To our gr delight, he reappeared on the following day.
MB. AINSWOBTH'S SOUTARY JOURNEY. 279
soon as he realised that he had beeu so unexpectedly chap. left behind, Mr. Ainsworth determined to follow us as , '
fast as he could, trusting to his own walking powers, J^;th *^*' and to our discovery of his absence, instead of looking ^^^ to the people of Anna for any help. Starting at once, and crossing from one bend of the river to the other, and thus gaining considerably both in time and distance, lie caught us up at Hadisa, without having met with any more serious disaster than that of having had to part with most of his clothes and all his little stock of money, to satisfy the cupidity of the plundering people, who constituted tliemselves as his guides for the sake of enforcing a reward. From others, however, he met with much kindness and assistance during his solitary walk, and they cheered him by the intelligence, that he and rejoins woidd find the steamer at the next reach of the river, Hadisa. * whither she had come,' they said, * with the swiftness of a bird,' and where he was most warmly welcomed by us all.
The moment we had Mr. Ainsworth again safely on board, we got up steam, and soon left Hadisa with its magnificent date-groves far behind us. The river . was now at its highest level, and a far nobler stream, therefore, than when I firat saw it from my raft in January 1831. Its course was much less winding than it had been above Hadisa. About two hours' Width of steaming, at the rate of 13^ knots an hour, brought us to Jibba, which stands on an island, and which had suffered so severely from a recent storm, as to be partially in rums. The scenery between Jibba and Hadisa was decidedly pretty — the country being well- wooded and carefully irrigated as usual.
Commcr- villi and nalurftl prodncts of Hit.
I
KABRATIVE OF THE ECPHBATES ESPBDn-IOK.
Next morning, soon after leaving Jibba, we a upon another considerable sweep in the river's cou scarcely less remarkable than that above Hadisa. reaching tlie rocks of Hajji-el-Karaf, near the castle Al-Karaf, it runs directly north for the distance of miles ; and having continued its course in tliis direci for about ten miles more, it turns abruptly south nearly five miles, to Maadred castle and mills. The it winds to the south-east, through wooded ba studded with mills and aqueducts, as far as the towi Hit.
Wo arrived at Hit sufficiently early in the < to enable us to visit the celebrated and inexhaust bitumen fountains of this place. They bubble up fi the ground with sufficient force to justify this desij tion, aTid the value of the bitumen as an article of ti can scarcely be overestimated. It was used by largely ?ur the purposes of fuel for the steamer, w sufficiently consolidated by an admixture of earth, answered evcrj' purpose of coal. As cement, its vi was well known to the ancients.
The salt-pits, the lime-quarries and sulphur-mi and the long-celebrated tepid mineral springs of were also all visited by us at this time. The nat productions affi^rd ample and remunerative employE to the people of the town nnd neighbourhood, process of boatbuilding at this place has been aire described.* The people are such adepts in this ti that a large-sized boat — capable of containing s 20 tons — is often b^un and finished in one day their materials being found on the spot.
KALAT RAMABI TO FELUJAH. 281
From Hit I forwarded a letter by messenger to chap.
XV
Bagdad, requesting that a supply of money might be — r-^
sent to meet us at Hillah, and resumed the descent* of the river the next morning, leaving the town enveloped, as usual, in as dense a cloud of smoke and bitumen- steam as any of our own manufacturing cities. The river continued broad and deep, and particularly favourable for steam-navigation. The scenery, how- ever, is less picturesque below than above Hit. We had left behind us the aqueducts, and entered on the region of the ugly though equally eflScient water-skins. The system of irrigation we found everywhere remark- irrigation ably complete, and attended with proportionate fertihty* country,
. . . 1 1 • ^^^ con-
and luxuriant vegetation. The villages below this sequent jx)int are chiefly built of stone, but occur at rarer intervals than the mud-and-reed structures higher up the river, which here rather increases in width.
At midday we passed Kalat Kamadi, a pretty little town, standing on high ground above the right bank of the river. At this season both its banks are covered with the black tents of the Bedawin, the whole way Bedawin from Kalat Kamadi to Felujah, which place is 87 miles m^ttâ„¢^' from Hit by water, the windings of the river being con- siderable. During the whole of this distance, the Euphrates is extremely favourable for all ordinary navigation, and perfectly safe for a small steamer, with the single exception of the camel's fords of Abu Sisa and Busheab, where the water is rather shallow.
As it was desirable to connect the City of the ^^p^
Estcourt
Khaliphs with our survey, in addition to the still more and Mr. important object of obtaining supplies, it was decided detnchedto that Major Estcouit and our astronomer should go to
5AS£^tnT or THE EETHKAnS EXECDITION.
BagiiMj f-jc these pmpoees ; anl tbcy acowdiogly ' Uf at Feiujah. acc^mpuiied br Doctor and Airs. He uA Mr. Cbariewood also.
On the monuDg of June 6, our descent and su were resumed. We passed the Castle of Macdam, followed the windii^ of the river, threading our . amidst it£> numerous Uljind^ until we reached Musse TO miles below Felujab, a town containing about hou:^«s. Almost opposite to it is a floating bri ha%-iug a movable centre to £acilitate navigatiotL was opened for us the nest morning as we approach aiiil we passed through and steamed on — our wl party under the influeace of those indeacribable feel attending a first visit to Babylon. The river be Musseycb bicreases in depth, becoming somewhat i rower at the same time, and flows between ne unbroken belts of the most luxiuiaut date-gro wliich almost entirely conceal from view tlie uiuuei villages which, at this part of its course, stud t banlw. Ilere and there we could perceive their w buildings, peeping tlirough the thick dark-green folii As we approached Babylon, these dato^roves beci denser and richer, and, but for the occasioual Ufc parted to them by the villages and their iuhabita would have been monotonous from their continu hne of verdure.
We anchored at the western part of the ruins, wl: former experience had taught me was the best poin start from, intending to carry our examinations on far as llillah, where we hoped to be joined by the pi from Bagdad. We lauded therefore cloae to Miiji.'llebeli, which wc asccuded almost immediat
nVISQ OP BABYLON. 283
aud afterwards visited and explored every part of the chap. remaius of this primeval and once proud city, with the ^^^r-^ very deepest interest. We sought, but in vain, for the ^^ ^^ Lions' Den, which I had entered on the occasion of i^io^s'
Den.
my first visit to Babylon ; but its arched and sloping descent had disappeared, and, to our great disappoint- ment, no traces of it remained. The investigations of scientific travellers had taught the people of Hillah the value of kiln-burnt bricks and arrow-headed charac- ter; consequently, those which formed the Lions' Den, when I saw it in 1832, had been carried away and turned into money long since.
I found this to be the case with other parts of the Destruc- tion of the
ruins also. The massive abutments of the Hanging ruins of
B&bvlon
Gardens, and the remains of the Kasr, had both suffered from these depredations. Our whole first day was spent in these explorations, which to me had lost nothing in interest since my previous visit; and the following day was devoted to the remains existing on Remains tlie right bank, to the north of the town of Hillah, right lank. and which have been so much effaced by the effects of time as to be scarcely traceable. This, however, is far from being the case with the famous Birs Nimriid, Birs which still maintains its majestic appearance on the right bank, at what seems to have been the extreme termination of these vast ruins. We deferred oiu: visit to this — one of the most wonderful of man's works — and to the tower on its summit, until after the return of our party from Bagdad, and then left Hillah, and resumed our descent towards the Persian Gulf.
We were not, however, to get off quite so pleasantly as we had expected. We had been on very friendly
284
NABRATIVE OF TH£ EUPH&ATBS EXPEDITIOK.
CHAP. XV.
*— « — —
Sudden lifwtility of the pc<i{>le of lliiluh.
pci'tt^ tumult.
Punt fent for iiitelli* gt-nce.
Tho apology.
terms with the people, and our steamer had been c stantly visited by lai^e numbers, both of men women ; but just as we were preparing to leave Hil with, as we believed, most amicable feelings on sides, a sudden and unexpected change took place. Boss, who had travelled with our party fix)m Bag to this place, came sufficiently near to announce us, in distinct whisper through his hands as a spe ing trumpet, that an attack by the people of the tc was imminent Instantly all hands were called to qi tors, and our vessel left the bank at once, and steac tlirough the opening of the bridge, just as Hasr Hass one of our engineers, appeared on the bank pursi by 60 Arabs, plunged into the river, and s>vam oflF to He brought the intelligence that a large numbei the inhabitants were collected in an adjoining str not only anned, but in a state of great excitement. We were in total ignorance as to the cause this outbreak, and thought it advisable to take so means of ascertaining whence it arose, our own Siif being now secured. We tlierefore lowered a b( and sent Major Estcourt and Mr. Bassam to governor, to demand an explanation of this cantempla attack ; for, seeing that we were well-prepared, noi man had yet dared to fire upon us. It now came i that one of our Arab pilots, who had left the vea instead of performing the duty for which he had b( engaged, had spread the report that his companion \ forcibly deUuned on board, and a cry • To arms I ' was I immediate consequence of this story. The goven assured Major Estcourt that this tumult was qu opposed to his wishes, and was ixjminded, in ixjtu
DEWANYAH AND LAMLUM. 285
that it was liis duty to restrain a lawless mob, and that, chap. if our defensive preparations had not kept tliem quiet,
he would have been answerable to the Sultan for any EBtwmrt's bloodshed that might have ensued. Our ambassadors ^^^^' then returned on board, and we left Ilillah, our anxiety relieved as to our actual and future friendly relations with this fiery and excitable people.
At 9 A.M. on June 11, we were steaming towards Departure the sea, between rich gardens and plantations of mul- j^uLh. berry, fig, and pomegranate trees, with the Birs Nim- riid in view at some little distance from the right bank. The surrounding country was much flooded. Date-groves still constituted the principal vegetation of both banks, as far as Dewanyali, a town of some Dewanyah. size, 69.^ miles below Hillah. Here we obtained a supply of wood, which delayed us until the 13th, when we passed, after frequent windings of the river, the canal leading from the right bank to Old liamlum. The body of water was necessarily a good deal diminished at this place, the river being partially Lamium
... I marshes.
lost m the marshes.
We brought up at New Lamium in the afternoon. New a town contammg a numerous population dwellmg in prettily-constructed reed-huts — which are portable, and which had almost all been removed from their usual sites, on account of the floods, when I first visited this place.
Here the channel of the river narrows to a width of from only 100 to 150 yards ; and we found it already occupied by numerous boats and some small vessels, one of which measured 55 feet long by 22 feet beam, which caused additional difficulties to our navigation.
2SS N'ARKATIVB OF THE EUPIIHATES EXPEDITIOy.
ciiAP. We passed to tlio right of Kalisli Gistle, and a 1
—^^-^—' later saw tlic river of that name, as well as the Uin-
Khaii, and farther on the castles of Muwaserah
Mateniah (or Maturali). The latter is on the left b;
and a little to the north of it stand some fine ruins, wl
n-ininded me of the Monnd of Pus. They bear the n
Kiiiii-cif of Inik-Jakah-oi-Assayah (place of pebbles), and
j^knii supposed to mark the site of one of the primeval c
^nvU). — that of Ereoh.
At this part of tlie river many places of intc
KHrm f(ilIow nii>idly on one another. Karra Castle, wl
we i)ass('d on the left bank, was succeeded by
saint's tomb of Modekim. Serayah inlet, con
fnini Pamawah, followed, and a litde fai'tber do
Kannaiinh Kiiriiiallah Cftstle. Kcretli Castle, and inlet thro
the left bank, were passed next, and finally Kcra
Castle, wliicli stands on a considerable arm of
Thp tin* Euphrates, bearing the same name. Here the tl
nfiiio branches of the river, which divide and How s(
Kuiilinlca i i> i e r ^
miniti-. rately from the town oi Jjamlum, reunite ; and marshy flat of this portion of its course is succeeded a varied country, while the sti-eam itself again Ijcco dei;p and wide, and flows between moderately high â– well-wiKxlod banks as fai- as El-Khudhr, which wc fixed on as our halting- place.
Ki- The village of El-Klmdhr stands in the midst of
extensive grove of poplars, and, as we "required l to carry us to Ba.Hrah, tlie inhabitants were emplo; in cutting wood for us during the evening of arrival, and the following morning. But when ca] iijion to resume their work during the day, found a decided unwillingness on their part to ft
r
iJj
r-\
HOSTILITY OF THE PEOPLE OP EL-KUUDHR. 289
their engagement ; and Lieutenant Murphy, who was chak employed in taking sights in the Castle of El-Khudhr, ' — r--^
sent us word to be prepared for an attack, of which Hostility
^ ^ . of the
Lieutenant Cleaveland had also perceived symptoms ; people. for the people had not only refused to continue their work, but were seen preparing their muskets, swords, knives, and other arms. Ignorant of any possible cause for hostility, Seyd Ah went to the chief of the tribe (the Beni-Hakem) for an explanation ; but the only reply that he could obtain was that we were cowards, and the assurance, coupled with the most inBoience opprobrious epithets possible, that if we did not chief, depart instantly, their alUes, who had been summoned to their aid, would join them in attacking us. Seyd • Ali therefore returned to us with the inteUigence, that the whole population of the place was in a state of violent excitement, which was evinced by their commencing their war-dance, moving round and Arab round in a circle with joined hands.
Mr. Ainsworth was on shore at this time, collecting botanical specimens in the adjoining wood, when we perceived that the Arabs were preparing to seize him. I and several of our party instantly landed, and throwing ourselves between him and the excited Reecneof crowd, we held them in check, and protected him, worth, until he, and the rest of our party also, safely reached the steamer. Once on board, we might easily have left the Arabs to themselves, had we not felt that our moral influence would have suffered from such a course. Instead of retreating, therefore, we steamed directly up to the wood on the northern side of the town, where the mass of the tribe had by this time
u
war-dance.
290 NARRATIVE OF TIIE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, assembled, in the hope of finding some opei > — r-^-^ for negotiation.
Enconnter Instead of this we were received with a heavy liabs. * Fortunately, none of our party were struck, altht Lieutenant Cleaveland, who occupied his usual posi on the paddlebox, w^as much exposed. Our bulwi &C. were otherwise almost a complete protection, people burned to return this attack, and it was difficulty that I restrained tliem for the momen the hope of preserving peace ; but as a dropping was still kept up against us, notwithstanding our bearance, we discharged a broadside of grape canister into the wood, with telling effect. Still i Arabs continued to fire at us, and we gave the
Attack second discharge, which cleared the wood at once,
eaaUe. * somc consultatiou on their parts. An attack had
been made upon us from a castellated buildin<
the opposite side of the river, but the discharge
Congrove rocket and two or three Cohom s
it« hEBty caused its immediate evacuation ; and some himc
eTacuatioD«
of an adjoining tribe of Arabs were seen scamp< away, to the infinite delight of Madame Heifer, contrary to my orders, came up the companion- to see what w^as going on.
LeftTe EU Thjs was the only affair attended with hostilil the part of the people, which occurred throughou whole Expedition. We had to quit El-Khudhr wit having any opportunity of obtaining an explani
Expiana- of their conduct from the Beni-Hakem. We
tionofthe ^ -t ^ i«i •titi
affray. afterwards told that their hostility had been arouse our having (in ignorance of tlieir superstitions down a part of the wood, which, owing to th^ir Pe descent, they regarded as sacred.
ARRIVE AT SHElKH-EL-SnUYUKH. 291
The river below El-Khudhr was literally covered chap.
XV
with boats, indicating commercial activity, and pre- ^ — r-^ aenting a great contrast to the quiet waters through which we had passed for so many days higher up the stream. Here, on the contrary, there was a very considerable population, and much hfe and activity about Kut-el-Amrah, which is the principal seat of Kut-ei- the great tribe of the Montefek Arabs, who inhabit both banks of the river, dwelling amidst groves of fine date and pomegranate trees.
Eight miles below Kut-el-Amrah, and 75 miles from El-Khudhr, is Sheikh-el-Shuyukh, the commercial Shcikh-ei- capital, and the largest town which is permanently occupied by the Arabs on the Euphrates. It contains some 1,500 clay-built houses, and as many tents, situated on the right bank of the river, and is most pleasantly shaded by vines, fig and pomegranate trees, interspersed with rose-bushes, &c.
A gun was fired from the steamer at sunset to
announce our arrival, and again at sumise the next
morning as a compliment to the place. A supply of
- wood, for which we had made an arrangement on our
arrival, was immediately placed on board; and we
prepared to start early the next morning, in the fiill
expectation of completing the descent of the Euphrates,
and bringing up at Kumah in the evening. In point
of distance this was quite feasible, the river being
both deep and wide ; but this being also the flood- Last day's
season, the extent and turbid condition of its waters
caused us some difficulty, at certain places, in making
out the channel. Occasional villages and magnificent
groves of date-trees guided us pretty well, and we
u '2
292 XAKRATn'E OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, accomplished the 75 miles to Xumah in Ti hours, ' — V-^ and brought up in the evemng at the junction of
Arrive at the Euphrates and Karun, and alonc:side the date-
Kumah. ^ . .
groves of Kurnah — for the town itself is completely hidden by these trees. The dates of the Euphrates are celebrated throughout Arabia and other parts of the East, but those of Kurnah and its vicinity are i>ate8 specially larj^e and delicious, and justly prized. The
of the Ell- . . •f ^MT
phrates. datcs usuolly imported to this country give no idea of the excellence of those grown on the lower part of the Euphrates, which, with a little rice, form the principal food of the inhabitants.
But to return to Kurnah. We found a square or ark-like-looking vessel * lying at anchor off the town. She proved to be a Turkish man-of-war, and we conse- quently ex(»hanged one gim, in accordance with the usual Turkish custom, and anchored.
Descent The dcsccut and survey of 1,153 miles of the great
and biirvey , _ ,
completed, rivcr was thus completed. It now remained for us to follow the joint estuary of this and the sister stream to
shntt-ei- Basrah, which, under the name of the Shatt-el-Arab, is so deep and wide that it has been ascended by one- of our second-rate line-of-battle ships.f Almost the whole of our fiiel had been consumed in reacliing
Reduced Kuruali, Consequently it took us five hours to reach
Bpeeil.
* Ark, according to Bailey*B excellent dictionary, signifies a laige cbeBt, which this vessel resembled.
t Tlie ' Lion/ of 64 guns, in 1800. Daring the Persian war in 1857, a fleet of the largest Indiamen ascended the Shatt-el-Arab, carrying tht force under General Outram and Ilavelock, which bombarded and cap- tured Mohanimerah ; and such was the depth of water in the river Hut a vessel of the size of the ' Eastern Monarch/ of about 2,000 tons, could lie alongside the bank, and take troops on board without the aasi^tance of a boat.
BOTAL SALUTE OFF BASRAH. 293
Basrah, a distance of only 43 miles, with the reduced chap.
XV
power, which was all that we could keep up, even by ^ — .-^
burning empty casks, and any other available articles that could be spared for fuel. The roadstead of Arrireat Basrah presented what was now to us a novel â„¢ ' scene. In addition to many smaller vessels, there were two Indiamen at anchor, besides a most un- promising-looking 20-gun ship, bearing a Turkish admiral's flag at the main.*
We had now accomplished the entire descent, as contemplated by Government, and most prosperously, with the single exception of our great calamity above Anna ; and it Vas with warm and grateful hearts that we endeavoured thankfully to acknowledge, in this distant part of the world, the effective support which had been given to the Euphrates Expedition. Taking the precaution, therefore, to place the chronometers astern in one of our boats, to avoid concussion, and hoist- comme- ing the royal standard, a gun was fired for every year T^Ze that our gracious Sovereign William IV. had been spared S^** to his devoted people. This commemoration of oiu: arrival, and of our gratitude, was followed by visits and sincere congratulations on all sides — including the Turkish Admiral, the French Consul (M. Fontanier),and the captains of the vessels in port, who offered us any- thing they had in the way of supplies. Many of the inhabitants of Basrah came also to see the wonderful little vessel, which had, as they truly said, come more than 1,500 miles through wild and hostile Arabs.
As, in conformity with our instructions, we were to
* This man-of-war was not expected, nor indeed in any case prepared, to go to sea, and it was said that one of her bulkheads had been replaced below the deck by a brick wall.
A'ABRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EZPBDITIOK.
ri^IwTa-
asccnd the Euplimtes with the Indian miuls, the urgently necessary repairs of our vessel, an establishment of dep6t3 of fuel at certain places tlio ri%'er, at once received our immediate and i attention.
The Turkish authorities had kindly placed the yanl of Basrah at our command, and we natural peeled to find there all that would be requisite I repairs of the steamer. But, altliough our wai not tie in books, as in the cjtse of Gil Bias's legac the Bishop, our hopes were as effectually disapp< There was, in fact, but httle prospect of gettii requirements supplied at this port, and we had U the difficult question of bow and where this couj be done. '
295
CHAPTER XVI.
CR0S8IN0 THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSHIRE — REFITMENT OF THE STEAMER, AND RETURN TO THE LOWER EUPHRATES.
There were, in fact, no means of refitting the steamer chap.
XVI
at Basrah ; consequently, our only alternative was to ^ — r-^ proceed to Bushire for this purpose, which, with a steamer only suited for a quiet river-navigation, pre- sented an almost insurmountable difficulty. It was indeed felt to be so by us all, but more especially by our naval officers, who assuredly were not wanting in enterprise ; yet, as there were no other means of com- pleting our undertaking, it was decided, after much serious consideration, that the attempt to reach Bushire in our Uttle ' Euphrates ' should be made.
We moved down the Shatt-el-Arab on the afternoon of Descent of
the Shatt-
June 21, leaving Major Estcourt and Lieutenant Murphy ei-Arab at Basrah^ to ascertain the magnetic dip as well as the Basmh. precise astronomical position of the city. The weather was not very favourable, and we brought up during the night near the mouth of the river, and took the precau- tion of putting up the dead-Hghts, and securing the windows, which were very httle above the water ; and thus we passed the bar, about noon next day. Under the impression that there was some danger, our course was shaped along the Persian coast, the vessel rolling
21>I> SARBATITE OF THE EUPHRATES EXFEDmOS.
CHAP, most uncomfortably all the while, as m^ht have 1 — ^ .-^ expected &x>m a constnictioa so totally unsuited
the open sea.
Inefficient We had two pilots OH boatd, who were suppose
know every part of the coast ; yet, without givjn
any kind of warning, we suddenly found that we
passed from deep soundings to only five feet water ;
^'^P'*" in an instant, we were in the midst and backing
of breakers, with one dead-Ught stove in, and ana
injured. We had, in fiict, narrowly escaped run
J*''>« upon a bank near the estuaty of the Stiver Inc
ladiin. where all might have been lost, had we not seen
breakers, which we did not do until almost too
Having placed below aU the weights, guns, &c. w
were not required on deck, to lessen the rolling,
secured the windows, dead-lights, &c, we stea
AiriT* at direct for Bushire, with a fresh wind, which howeve
Bwhire.
our case, still gave sufficient cause for uneasiness, tj] passing the island of Karrak the sea became calm, we steamed with smooth water on to Bushire.
War We found a frigate belonging to the Imdm of Mu
and other large vessels, anchored in the roadstea< well as two cruisers of the Indian Navy, the ' Amh« and ' Cyrene,' from both of which we were greetec hearty cheers as we passed to our anchorage cloe the Residency, where Captain Hennell now heard the first time of our successful descent of the Euphn
^}* rt and the fatal loss of the ' Tigris.' It was after su when we arrived, and the salute was necessarily f poned until the morning; but this compliment duly ])aid to ua afterwards, not only by two of Honourable East India Company's men-of-war,
i
REFITMENT OF OUR STEAMER. 297
also by the frigate of the Imdm of Muscat, and by two chap.
XVT
merchant-vessels lying at anchor. ^ — ^-I-^
We now devoted ourselves to the necessary prepara- Refitment
of thd
tions for our future ascent of the Euphrates. Our steamer, vessel required extensive repairs before she could be fit to stem the current, especially after all she had gone through between Basrah and Bushire, while re- turning to the former place would of itself be a serious trial to her.
With regard to our first great object — that of re- Kindness fitting — Captain Hennell at once offered us all the means HenneU. which the Indian Navy could command, and proposed to send to the station at Bassadore for additional supplies. He also gave us the accommodation of a RemoTe hulk, the * Sovereign of the Seas,' on board of which we a'huik. immediately removed ourselves, and everything be- longing to our vessel ; and with an additional supply of smiths and carpenters, we set diUgently to work, knowing beforehand that we had a serious task to accomplish. The deck required caulking ; repairs were Repairs needed to the floats, paddle- wings, and also to some part of the engines ; and one very important object was to manage a more effectual way of closing the windows, which work, in addition to the painting, was to be to be completed by the time the 'Hugh Lindsay' should ^I^Hiiii appear to tow us, as we expected she would do, across ^'^^"J^* the Persian Gulf.
But, in the midst of these occupations, a great and very unexpected difficulty arose. Our seamen, having experienced the change from a life of over-exertion to one of almost idleness, lost that energetic feeling which, witlu)ut any exception, had hitherto prevailed among
298 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, them ; and the consequence was that, on July 4, lieu- tenant Cleaveland reported that they claimed their dis- charge, in conformity with the articles of agreement. It now appeared that the dangers experienced m cross-
XVI.
The Beamen claim their
^**^***^- ing the Persian Gulf had first led to the desire to end
their service ; and I found, with much disappointment,
Difficulties that three of the artillerymen also wished to quit us, and
thu de- return to England. This was a serious trial, and the
™*° * more so as it had come when we were fast preparing
the steamer for the completion of her task by the
ascent of the river.
Still, I came to the conclusion that the case was not
altogether hopeless, and I therefore took the course of
making known to all our men, that about five months
My more would accomplish our enterprise ; and that if they
j^^^ quitted us now, instead of finishing their undertaking,
l!^en. *^^ ^^st do SO with their own means, since their pay
would cease on their leaving us ; while, as r^arded the
danger of reaching the river, I had made provision for
this reasonable cause of alarm by arranging that our
seamen should be taken on board the vessel destined
to tow our steamer to the Euphrates — ^adding that
other seamen could be obtained, should they keep
to their resolution of returning home.
Seamen After somc hesitation, several of our seamen, and
di»-
chaiged. nearly all the natives, persisted in their wish to be dis- charged ; and on their formal application to this effect, the Resident consented to take steps to supply their places. With a view to the accomplishment of this most important object, I went on board the * Elphinstooe ' cruiser, and proposed that some of her seamen should join the Euphrates Service, for which, to my great
MAIL LINE THBOUOn TURKISH ARABIA. 299
satisfaction, every man at once volunteered. But as chap.
XVI
Captain Sawyer did not feel justified in diminishing
The'El- e
his crew by more than four, we were promised the re- phiLtooi mainder of our number on the arrival of the * Amherst ' ^^teer cruiser, then expected from Bassadore. ^^ ^ajus
In addition to the operation of refitting, and the no Serric©- less difficult task of obtaining seamen, a Beport was now in course of preparation, by myself and each of the officers, on the practicability of navigating the Euphrates ; and that no part of the time required for carrying out these arrangements might be lost, it was also proposed to open a temporary line through Turkish Tomporaiy Arabia — ^not by way of Basrah (as in the time of the through Marquis Wellesley's Government of India), but by the Anbu. quicker route of Grane.
I accordingly crossed the Gulf to the latter place, and made arrangements for opening a communication by this line : after which, having forwarded a despatch by dromedary via Aleppo, I returned to the steamer, where I had the satisfaction of finding that good pro- Despatch gress had been made with her repairs under Mr. Fitz- wAAieppo. James, although the assistance given by the native smiths and carpenters had been very inefficient. Our expected ProgreMof supply of coals had not, however, as yet arrived from steamer. Bassadore, nor had the remaining number of seamen been obtained from the Honourable East India Companjr's cruisers. A few days after my return we procured additional assistance in the way of workmen, and our prospects gradually brightened. Supplies came in, supplies most opportunely and unexpectedly, from Bombay, j[^i^. brought by the clipper barque ' Sir Edward Compton,' which vessel had been specially chartered for the
#
I
300 NABBAnVE OF TUB BDPHiBATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, purpose of bringing us supplies with all posable sp
' — r-^ She had made her passage to Bushire in 24 da3m,
withstanding the n^uch-dreaded south-west mous>
and by her we learnt that one mail had been forwai
to us by the ' Shannon ' on Jidy 5, for conveyance
HuUfrom the Euphrates, and that another was to be despat^
for us soon afterwards by the ' Hugh Lindsay,' for 1
of which it was necessary that we should be prepa
An order from the Conunodore in the Persian <
came by the same opportunity, to fumiah us '
the requisite number of seamen, and thus one ser
difficulty was at an end. That of crossing the '
still remained.
PrapMs- ^6 At first thought of accomplishing this by sb
iw^°th« ing to the mouth of the Indidn, and ascending that ri
Fflraiui gyj gg ^j^ would still have been attended with sc
though comparatively slight risk, we decided to ^'
Towed up, and we finally arranged that the 'Elphinstone' shi
â– '^phin- tow our steamer to the entrance of the Euphrates.
'"^'' necessary preparations for this were at once common
Dead-lights soon replaced our jalousies, and the j
and other heavy weights were stowed below.
were alongside the * Elphinstone ' on July 25, and :
our funnel, and our spare officers and men, on bo
only keeping a few volunteers to steer the ' Euphra
with Lieutenant Cleaveland, Mr, Charlewood,
myself. The weather was, on the whole, modei
during our voyage, but, owing to adverse winds
was only on September 1 that our vessel left
R^ Mo- 'Elpliinstone,' and steamed up the great river to '.
hammerah,
lutelligcncc of Lieutenant Murphy's serious illi
DEATH OP LIEUTENANT MURPHY, R.E. 301
had reached us before leaving Bushire, and this had chap.
. XVI
caused Mr. Ainsworth to hasten to him at once. But ^ — .-^ before he could have arrived the Basrah fever had deprived the Expedition of the services of that valuable officer and sincere Christian, who never knew what it was to have a personal enemy. Hi» death was on niness every account deeply felt by us all, but in my own ^Lie?- case this sorrow was, if possible, increased by the M^hy. reflection, that I ought not to have allowed my lamented friend to expose himself (as in his zeal he had done) to the trying chmate of the Lower Euphrates.
The inteUigence of Lieutenant Murphy's death awaited us at Mohammerah, and we heard at the same time, from Major Estcourt and Mr. Ainsworth, of the dangerous illness of Corporal Greenhill, which induced nineas of us to steam at once with aU speed to the Eesidency at ^^Sil Marghil — a distance of 29 miles, which we accom- plished in less than three hours against the current — Rapid and to return the same afternoon, with the invalid itegha. on board, as well as Major Estcourt and Mr. Ains- worth.
We thus ascertained that our steamer had not lost Stoamer'B
capabili-
any of her capabiUties, and we felt equal to anything ti«« «»»»"*-
psin*d.
that might be required from us. An inmiediate oppor- tunity for usefulness presented itself. The ' Cyrene ' (East Lidia Company's cruiser) had come into Moham- merah without bringing the missing Indian mail from Grane ; and, as we could not commence the ascent of the Euphrates without it, we had thus a Uttle time on our hands, which I thought it best to employ, until the arrival of the * Hugh Lindsay,' in ascertaining the Karun and capabilities of the Rivers Kan'm and Bah-u-Mishir, Mishir.
302 NABKATIVE OF THE EUPnBATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, both which examinations had been originally com- — r-^ prised in the contemplated objects of the Expedition.
The survey of the river at and above Mohammerah
had been already completed by Major Estcourt, and we
therefore entered the Karun on the morning of August
7, and passed the mouth of the Bah-a-Mishir with its
splendid date-groves. Steaming upwards, we passed
the head of the dry channel of the Karun-el-Amarah
Survey (Blind Karuu), its waters having, doubtless, been
Karto. absorbed by the canal already described.* We saw
occasional tent-villages, and proceeded without any
interruption, until a little short of Ismaih, where the
water rather failed us ; and as we had no time for
delay, we did not attempt to pass this sliallow place,
Return to but Steamed back to Mohammerali, after thus comple-
nj^ah. ' ti^g ^h® ascent of the Karun, as far as was practicable.
It is a fine river, with a depth of 3^ fathoms even in
the low season, and with an average width of from 180
Dewsrip- to 190 yards. Its banks are partially wooded, and but
Karun, thinly inhabited, the people preferring the interior of
the country, where they are less exposed to the dreaded
Aniza Arabs.
Having ascertained the navigability of the Eiver Karun, not only by the body of its waters, but also by the size of the 'bagalAs* (large boats with lateen sails), which pass to and fro constantly between it and the neighbourhood of Shuster, we turned with much interest March of to the examination of the route by which Alexander the
Alexander
the Great. Great reached Susa on his return-march fix)m India. With this object we descended the Bah*a-Mishir, and
* See Chapter VL pp. 101, 102.
ABBANG£MENTS FOB THE MAILS. 803
on finding, from its depth and width, as well as from chap.
XVI
the size of the passage-vessels, that it possessed every ^ — r-^ facility for navigation, we steamed back to our station, and were not a day too soon. Lieutenant Daniell, of the Indian Navy, had just reached the Hafar Canal in Arrival the East India Company's schooner 'Shannon,' with Bombay the mail from Bombay. This caused us some em- barrassment, inasmuch as the immediate ascent of the Euphrates, for the purpose of carrying forward this mail without delay, would have caused us to miss the larger and more important mail expected by the ' Hugh Lindsay/ and which waa just at hand.
The alternative of ascending the Eiver Tigris to Decide to Bagdad, and forwarding the mail from thence, and Tigris to then descending the river vnth all possible speed to ^^^ meet the 'Hugh Lindsay,' presented itself, and was at once decided on. We hoped by this arrange- ment to be able to dispose of both mails, provided the Eiver Euphrates should stiU prove to be navigable at this low season of the year. On this important question, however, doubts existed as to the practi- Doubts as cability of a successful ascent, which, after Ughtening JJwatl^r our vessel for this piu^se as much as possible, I ex- phJ^ef "' pressed in a despatch to the President of the Board of Control, stating that, 'if water failed, we should put about without hesitation, after sending the mail on by dromedaries.'*
The delay entailed by the unavoidable repairs of the steamer, and the subsequent detention of the mail from India, had unfortunately thrown us into the unfavourable
♦ Despatch of August 15, 1836, pp. 41 and 42 of Communications or De»patche.<*T &c., ordered to be printed, February 22, 1836.
NAEHATIVE OP THE ECPHBATBS EXPEDITION.
season for the navigation of Uie Euphrates ; still, it with confident feelings of success that we steamed f Hohammerah to Basrah, on September 3, to k; fuel, and make our preparations for ascending Tigris.
305
CHAPTER XVII.
ASCENT OF THE RIVER TIGRIS TO BAGDAD, AND DESCENT TO MEET
THE INDIAN MAIL AT KURNAH.
Our prospects on reaching Basrah from Mohammerah chap. were, at first, anything but enqouraging ; for here we - ^y^' - lost our only remaining engineer, Mr. Calder, and his death seemed, at first, to put the prosecution of our en- ^^^ terprise entirely out of the question. Happily, how- engineer, ever, as is usually the case in all difficulties, an available resource was to be found. It will be remembered that some of the men of the Expedition had received prac- tical instruction in working the engines of the Birken- head ferry-boats, among whom was Corporal (now Ser- a sapper
Appointed
geant) Black, of the former Koyal Sappers and Miners, to work
11 . • -I • T ^0 engine.
a smgularly energetic and persevering man. I pro- posed to him that he should undertake to work the engine, with such assistance as could be given him by our artillerjnnen — to which he readily consented.
Still there was cause for uneasiness ; and I should probably have felt even more anxious than I did, if I had not remembered that in the case of the Niger Expedition, when the death of the engineer and his assistants had left the ' Quorra ' steamer in an almost hopeless predicament on the Upper Niger, my friend Macgregor Laird not only undertook to work the engines himself, but actually did so successfully,
X
I'
i'
306
CHAP.
' — I — ^
Det4>nnine to continae the enter- priM.
AwM'nt of the
oommeii'- ced.
BiBtoa.
Jlas-al-
Khejran.
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES £2U'EDinON.
until he brought his vessel to the sea, and also d her passage home. We therefore determined to j under these disadvantageous circumstances, rathei abandon the enterprise ; and having procured a who was acquainted with the river, we steamed Kumah on the afternoon of September 14, taking us the French Consul, Monsieur Fontanier, wh< shown great kindness to our lamented astronc tliroughout his illness, and whose state of healtl dered a change from Basrah desirable.
The ascent of the Tigris commenced on the afte of September 15, and passing the Tomb of Ezi brought up for the night at Janchu, having asc rather more than 38 miles of river during that aftei with an average depth of from 2 to 6 fathom a width of 200 yards. The water was necessaril at this season, so that we were prepared for some culty in the ascent, which, in one or two places, c us to lose time. Thus we accomplished only S3 in 6 J hours to the village of Bistoa. The next the river still winding very much through w< banks, we made our way onwards with less diflS the depth varying, as before, from 2 to 6 fathoms, bend of the river is so exactly like another, thi pilots have to place stones, to enable them to distir between the difierent reaches, to which they give rate names.
As the river improved in depth, so our pp became more satisfactory, and we made 67f m; Eas-al-Kheyran during this day. On the next, fi that we were passing through a more populous d than had hitherto been the case, the Sultan's <
• Lieutenant Murphy.
I
I
:•
ii
â–
I'
I!
It
£il.5
KUT-EL-AMRAn. 307
was displayed at our masthead. The river flows chap.
. . XVII.
between high and well-wooded banks, winding very -- . ' ^ much, and varying in breadth from 200 to 400 yards. We brought up about dark at El-Medlia : on the 18th Ei-Mediia. we passed two shallow places, and with them got over all present difficulties — the rest of the navigation being favourable during our ascent of 54 miles to Kiit-el- Kut-d- Amrah. In itself this place is of no importance, but its position, immediately opposite to the embouchure of the Shatt-el-Hie, gives it some consequence. The latter river crosses Mesopotamia in a diagonal direction, till it falls into the Euphrates at the small town of El- Askuh or El-Arju.
We quitted Kut-el-Amrah on the morning of Septem- ber 21, the British and Turkish ensigns flying, intending to reach Tauk-Kezra before night. More than half the distance to Bagdad had now been accomplished with very little difficulty, but the state of the river rendered the re- mainder of this day's navigation very intricate ; in fact, we had to proceed so cautiously, that we barely accom- plished ten miles in four hours. The river presented a wide-spread surface, but was evidently so shallow, that shallow we had very little expectation of our vessel being "vcr. able to pass at all. Still, as we had observed that the large boats which navigate the Tigris river managed to pass up and down even at this season, we determined to make the attempt.
We made a most careful examination, not only by soundings, but also by means of our two pilots, who went into the water, and by wading and swimming, as the case might be, ascertained where a passage was prac- ticable ; and we steamed ahead, with the expectation
X 2
VI
I
308 NABRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
aground.
CHAP, of reaching deeper water before long. To our c i I jc\iL ^ pQiiitingnt, our steamer grounded again, in what t
Steamer out to be a blind passage, and the hope of rea Bagdad seemed to be almost at an end. The morning, however, whilst we were employed in lig ing and floating the vessel, the boats and pilots : nately discovered a passage, which we succeeded i L lowing under very novel circumstances.
i I The pUoto Occasionally swimming, but more generally wt
I I trace out a
I chaaueL the two pilots followcd the winding channel i
j ' the water had made for itself along the bed o
river. They marked its course by means of a d row of sticks and willow-branches, and the vessel followed, along the passage thus carefully tracec into the opener part of the river, when she ste onwards with comparative ease to Al-Hamarah ji which is 42^ miles from El-Bune. The next dj experienced some delay when passing througl islands and shallow water near Debouny, whi Mother of about midwav to Um-el-Bul, or Mother of Drum
Drum- *^
men. so named from the sound caused by the reverbei of the water against the rocks. We ascended 35 this day, but, owing to a succession of sandy islel shallow water, we barely made 19 miles durin 24th, to Zerviya.
Failure Our progrcss had also of late been a good de
tarded, in consequence of a failure in the supply o expected from Basrah ; green wood was our resource, and this, as a matter of course, was bui the expense of time. But at this halting-place a t ble supply of wood was obtained, and our ascen prosperously continued until we anchored, after
CTESIPHON AKD BAGDAD. 309
eight miles short of Ctesiphon, having steamed rather chap. moi^ than 53 miles during the day. ^^^
Early on the following morning the Eesident's boat arrived from Bagdad, bringing Dr. Eoss, to renew the acquaintance which he had commenced with ns at the moment of the Arab tumult at Hillah.
From Ctesiphon our ascent was resumed with more 5^^^,
\ CteBipnon.
experienced pilots, and we felt confident of reaching Bagdad in time for supper. We had examined the crumbling ruins of Ctesiphon, and walked to see the extensive arch of Tauk-Kezra, while the steamer was navigating the great bend made by the Tigris at this place, and then continued our ascent until a shoal place brought us up opposite to the Eiver Diyalah ; and Diyaiah here we remained, our disappointment being, if possible, "^®'' enhanced by the knowledge that we were scarcely three miles from Bagdad in a direct line. During the after- noon of August 30, we steamed the remaining nine miles visit of by water, and Colonel Taylor came on board, and was Taylor. saluted with eleven guns. As we approached the city the bridge was thrown open. Our salute was retxurned from the Eesidency ; and we steamed through the bridge Arrival at towards evening, into the midst of the wondering popu- ^*8*^- lation, which covered the roofs of every house, when one individual, placing his head between his knees, was heard to call out, with great emphasis, * Has God been pleased to make only one such creation ? '
Our entrance into Bagdad carried me back, in recol- Reminis-
C6I1C08 OX
lection, to the commencement of that singular train of Bagdad, events, which had this day reached its culminating- point by our steamer's arrival at this city. For it was here, as fer back as 1831, that Colonel Taylor and myself
310 NARRATIVE OF TQ£ EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP took the first steps for submitting to the consideration ^-^ . ^' of the Home as well as the Indian authorities the infor-
mation which had been obtained concerning the state of the Euphrates and Tigris. And as various drcum-
KeiP08i)€ct. stances, which led step by step to the organisation of the Expedition, had cliiefiy originated at this place, the arrival of our steamer at Bagdad was one of the most triumphant moments in the progress of the under- taking.
The present low state of the Tigris rendered its navigation so tedious that we decided to give up any
Rpsoiveto fuiilier ascent of the river, and to return with all
return to
Kumah. spccd to Kumah. Our coal-boats, however, had not yet arrived — consequently, cutting wood for fuel was our only resource. During tlie delay thus occasioned, tlie good people of the city had fi^ee access to our vessel, of which a large number, including many veiled fair ones, freely availed themselves — keeping at the same time close to the bulwarks by way of protection.
i>?ave Our descent was commenced on September 5, the
i^"g^i^. walls and houses on each side being, if possible, more crowded with spectators than when we made our firet entiy into Bagdad. My old friend and our valuable pilot, Getgood, made his appearance most unexpectedly that morning, having came across from Anna on hearing
Getgood where we were. He came in order to be useful to us,
comes 01* T , T
board. and brought an account of the present state of the Euphrates with reference to our approaching ascent. Our first day's run was suddenly cut short, after we had steamed 22 miles, by our running into a bank, which had been suddenly formed by one of those changes to which this river is constantly liable. After some dehy
DESCENT OF THE SIVEB TO KUBNAH. 311
we resumed the descent, and repassed first the mouth chap. of the Diyalah, then the ruins of Ctesiphon and Tauk- ^ — r-^ Kezra, and reached Al-Mosul, where we brought up for 5^°^ of the night, after having steamed 54 miles in the course and Xauk- of the day.
Sixty miles on the following day brought us again to the difficult passage a little above Kut, where we anchored, that we might have time to examine the course of the river, and ascertain its present depth of water. But the obstacles we had experienced at this Th»
difficult
spot during our ascent were much lessened by our channel lines of marking-rods, which we unexpectedly foimd still remaining where our pilots had placed them, thus tracing out the channel of the river for us without any further trouble. The passage itself also was rather deeper and wider than it had been when we had pre- viously passed through it, so that we reached Kiit-el- Kut^i- Amrah witli very little difficulty, having previously made 20 miles. Not finding the supply of coal which was to have met us at this place,* we were scarcely able to get up any steam with the green sappy wood, which was all that we could procure the next morning ; and we had the additional vexation and delay of running on a bank at Al-Maudaten, which is 46 miles below Kut-al-Maklia. S"h*^"
Mftklia.
It required two days of energetic exertion to get our vessel afloat again, and two more to reach Kumah. This town is about 232 miles from Kut, and 431 miles AmTeat
jLumah.
fix)m Bagdad. The latter distance only occupied 55 hours under steam, but, owing to the serious delay
* We afterwards learnt that our coal-boats had been stopped on their way up the Tigria; in coniBoquence of some misunderstandiiig with the AxabflL
312 KABSATITE OF THE EUPHRATES EXFEDmOK.
CHAP, caused by the £Gulure of coals, as well as by roD]
XVII .
* I ' — r— ^ aground several times, the voyage occupied ra
1 f Time more than 11 days. We found the * Hugh Lind
i hTuie waiting for us with the Indian mails, but, on the o
: I ***" hand, we leamt, with some surprise and no little
J easiness, that our ordinary supplies of meat, bread,
â– ' ' had been withheld by the people of the town, who
I , Unex. been in such a state of alarm and excitement,
I WiHtj regard to oiu* ascent of the Euphrates, that they
P^rt o*f the appealed for protection to the Sheikh of the MonI ^â„¢**' Arabs, who had given orders, in consequence, not ob attack the larger steamer, but also to bum our \ if she attempted to ascend the river. We like found that it was by his orders that our coal-boats been detained. What was How bcst to meet this unlooked-for change in
to be done. , _ • i • rri
prospects reqiured consideration. To attempt to as the river amidst anything hke determined hostilit the part of the Arabs would have been rash in extreme ; but if the present ill-feeling arose only some temporary misunderstanding, it became our to try to clear it up, and re-establish finendly relal while my knowledge of the Arab character led n believe that we should accomplish this much : effectually by pursuing a decided rather than a t course. Lettw to Our first step was to procure a pilot, coals, an
the Sheikh f /» Tk i rm
of the our necessary supplies Irom Basrah. The next w send a letter, to inform the Sheikh of the Montefek we intended decidedly to ascend the river, if pos on a friendly footing with him and his people, quite prepared to resist and signally punish
u
^ -_
- ^
r. II rv-*
LETTER TO THE SHEIKH OF THE MONTEFEK.
thing like hostility on their part. This document wa sent by a special messenger, with all due form, and th steps thus taken were made known to the officers c the Expedition, coupled with the information that w were at once to proceed up the river with the mail just received from India.
The * Hugh Lindsay ' commenced her retum-voyag on October 18, leaving two passengers, Messrs. Stewar and Alexander (the latter an invalid), to accompany u up the Euphrates on their way to England.
PUILLSC ^
314
irAESATIVB OF THE SUFHBATB8 BXFEDITION.
CHAPTER XVm.
CHAP.
xvm.
Causes of
Arab
hostility.
The ascent com- menced.
ASC£NT OF THE RIYER EUPHRATES TO I'HE LAMLUH MABSHES — DES- CENT TO BASRAH — THE COMMANDER PROCEEDS TO INDIA TO MAKE ARRANGEMENTS TO CONTINUE THE EXPEDITION, LEAYIHa MAJOR ESTCOURT IN COMMAND.
During the short delay which occurred previous to the arrival of our pilot from Basrah, some light was thrown upon the hostile proceedings of the Sheikh of the Monte^k, which were, it seems, caused by the belief that we were not only about to seize and fortify Kumah, but that we also meditated an attempt to induce the Arabs to become Christians. They were, no doubt, in some degree justified in the latter belief, by the tradition of the country that they were all, both Turks and Christians, to be subdued and forced to conform to the rehgion of an European Power. The discovery of the shght foundation on which their enmity rested made me look forward hopeftilly to the re-establishment of our previous friendly under- standing with the Arabs; and with this object in view, I determined to take such a course as must show them that I placed perfect confidence in their good faith.
We commenced our ascent of the Euphrates early on the morning of October 20. The river, although lessened both in depth and width, was still imposing, and the
\
CANOES OP THE EUPHRATES. 815
^nged its banks was most luxuriant chap.
XVIII.
^ — ■^
^heikh-el-Shuyukh. We steamed ^ day against the current, and
"^ ^% ae of the greatest life and ani-
L was crowded with large ' bagalAs' liich at this season of tlie year are em- collecting dates, and innumerable canoes oRimming along the surface of the water in all .sections.
The latter are chiefly framed of reeds, and are low and long, like the Esquimaux canoe, with the exception that those of the Euphrates are coated with bitumen. Canoes instead of being covered by skins. The stem and Euphrates. stem of these canoes are ahke, so that they move either way with equal facility, and are propelled by one man sitting in the stem, or (in the case of boats of a larger size) by a man at each extremity. A light awning of striped cotton covers this boat, which is paddled with a degree of speed scarcely inferior to that' of the swiftest Esquimaux canoe. They are understood, however, to be of Persian origin, rather than to be in any way connected with the Polar
During this day's ascent we met with a great Enormous natural curiosity. A carp of enormous size had been *^'^' eft on the river's bank by the receding water, of which Mr. Charlewood gives the following description in his journal : — ' Yesterday we passed an enormous fish lying high and dry on the bank. It was at least 4 feet thick at the shoulders, and 15 feet long, — in fact, much longer than any shark I had ever seen, being more like a young whale than anything else.'
316 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EZPEDITIOK.
CHAP. This monster was not, however, quite new to me. I
XVIII. T
' — r— ^ had ah^ady seen two other specimens of the carp,
which Pliny has described as attaining this great me ; and the people of Aleppo speak of this fish as being a load for two camels. The waters of the Euphrates, however, abound in fish of many kinds in addition to the carp.
Nothing unpleasant occurred in any way up to our arrival at the densely tliick and dark mass of trees which surround the Arab capital of Sheikh-el-Shuyukh, where the houses, or (more properly speaking) the huts, begin. Animonty But here the people evinced their animosity against Arabs. US, by pelting the vessel with sticks and pieces of hard mud. The women also showed their anger by exposing their persons in a very indecent manner, but we passed onwards without taking any notice of these hostile demonstrations, and a £riendly reception awaited us on our anchoring within the town.
On the following morning the cause of the Arab hos* tility was fully ascertained. Seyd Ali, who had just rejoined us firom Bagdad, whither he had been sent for some nuts and screws for the engine, explained that he had found the Arabs in such a state of uproar, that he had been obliged to travel by night to avoid danger, as the most determined hostility existed towards our steamer and the ' Hugh Lindsay.' This excitement had arisen in consequence of the injudicious distribution of some religious tracts among the Arabs, which had been Indiscreet brought by Mr. Samuel, a German missionary, and one ary seal, of the passeugcrs by the * Hugh Lindsay.' Some of these papers had fallen into the hands of the Sheikh of the Montefek, and he, as well as the people at large,
EXPLANATION WITH THB SHEIKH OF THE MONTEFEK. 317
became much incensed at the attempt thus made to chap.
XVIII
convert them to Christianity. * — r— ^
Having thus come at the real cause of our un- pleasant position, it seemed all-important to take some steps to restore the good understanding which had previously existed with this powerful Sheikh ; but how to bring this about was an anxious question, since the safety of the Expedition might depend on the successful issue of our measures. Kesolved to do our utmost to restore peace, we left the people of Sheikh-el-Shuyukh behind us, and an hour and a half s steaming against the current brought us alongside the Sheikh's spacious reception-tent at Kut-el-Amrah.
Our prospects were not at first very promising, for Miyor Major Estcourt's official visit was met by the not un- ©up am- iisual excuse, that the Sheikh was in his harem, and could not be disturbed. This led to an immediate re- monstrance on our part, founded upon the detention of our coal-boat3 on the Tigris, and other grievances of which we had latterly had cause to complain ; while we made it perfectly clear, at the same time, that no step hostile to Islamism had been at any time taken by anyone belonging to our party. This statement was Expiana- repeated to the Sheikh through an officer of rank belong- shSkh. ing to the Pacha of Bagdad, who was on a mission to Kut-el-Amrah ; and the chief of the Montefek at once sent his aged and confidential Vizir on board our steamer. His Vinp to express his entire satisfaction with our explanation, board, and to request the honour of a visit from us. To this I readily consented, and a salute of seven guns was fired as I approached the Sheikh's quarters.
I found his immense circular tent occupied by some
818 NASRATIVE OF THE EUFHBATES EXFEDITIOV.
•
CHAP, four hundred of the tribe, but their chief himself was ^ — r-^ not present; and the moment I became aware of u>\hr^ ^^^^ breach of courtesy, I retired, expressing my in- sheikh. dignation most strongly as I did so. This dedded conduct drew forth an immediate and ample apolc^, and it was arranged that one of the most influential men of tlie Montefek tribe, and a pilot from among this people also, should accompany us up the river, to punish the people of El-Khudhr, as well as to give us a tangible proof of their goodwill. These negotiations occupied the whole day, but early on the following morning, we Leave Kut. rcsumcd our course, with the pilot and the Sheikh's re- presentative on board. The river was winding, and did not anywhere exceed from 2 to 5 fathoms in depth. Two hours beyond Kut we stopped at El-Aijah Gumesh, beyond which place we made our way through oox^.asional marshes, and found the river literally alive with canoes. About midday we reached a shallow spot in the river's coiu'se, and towards evening, when it had become almost dark, we came to anchor about eight miles short of El-Khudhr, whither we proceeded early Rohim next morning. We passed the wood, and anchored at
to El- ° ^
Khudhr. tlic opcn spacc bcyoud the trees, when we discovered that all the women, children, and cattle had been sent away, their canoes sunk, and tlie Arabs themselves occupied the wood in force, armed with matchlocks. They had stationed themselves also in the two castles near El-Khudhr, as if they apprehended an attack.
We soon made it clear to them that it was not our intention to take the law into our own hands, but that we proposed to leave the settlement of our grievances to the great Sheikh and his delegates. This was no
DIFFICULT NAVIGATION OF THE LAMLUM MABSHES. 319
sooner understood than the women and cattle were chap. brought back to their houses, and, trusting to the ^ — r— ^
Sheikh so to deal with these people as to secure future travellers from similar wanton hostihty, we left El- Leave Ei-
Khudhr.
Khudhr.
Our navigation went on most satisfactorily imtil late in the afternoon, when we grounded in the shallow water near Karagun inlet, where our real difficulties were about to conimence.
We had discovered that the steamer failed to answer her helm in shallow water, and that it would be neces- sary, in consequence, to employ trackers, to guide her at the sharp turnings of the Lamlum marshes, which we were now on the point of entering. Seyd Ali had already gone to Semavah, to procure such assistance as these circumstances had rendered requisite, more especially for the part of the river near Berga. Accordingly, 80 Towed
tlirongh
Arabs appeared just as we were approaching the ex- the pected difficulty, and with the promise of hberal remune- manhes. ration they commenced their task with apparently hearty goodwill — one half towing on one side of the river, and the remainder on the other.
We were quite in spirits at this good beginning, and at the prospect of being soon through the marshes, and in the more open part of the river. But we discovered tliat to help us on was in reality no part of the intention of these men, and that, instead of being useful, their dehght consisted in thwarting us as much as possible. They were, indeed, on the point of doing this most Malicious effectually, since they made an attempt to overturn of the our vessel, and had, in fact, all but accomplished their mischievous design, when it was happily frustrated by
320
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOK.
CHAP. XVIII.
DiiBcnltj of navigm- tiDgthe manhes.
Engine disabled.
The mailf forwarded by Mp. Fitzjames.
Descend
the river with one engine.
one of the hawsers parting in the middle at the most opportune moment. Of course, on discovering their treachery, they were at once discharged from our service. They did not, however, return to Semavah, but remained on the river's bank, watching, with sullen disappointment, our efforts to get through the marshes into the open water, by means of anchors, pulleys, and hawsers. While we were thus laboriously working our way onwards, our endeavours were suddenly and effectually brought to a close by the discovery that our larboard engine could no longer perform its worL What were we to do now ?
We were all aware that the size of our vessel, her draught of water, and her failure in steering (especially in shallow places), must cause serious difficulties in getting through the marshes; but these once passed, we had anticipated no further obstacle to our successful ascent, and our disappointment was proportionally great on finding that it must be relinquished for the present
My attention was at once turned to the question of forwarding the mails, and Mr. Fitzjames volunteered to undertake the difficult and almost solitary journey which their conveyance necessarily entailed. He set out on October 30, accompanied by our two fellow- passengers, Messrs. Stewart and Alexander, and encou- raged by hearty cheers from us all, which were kept up until they were quite out of hearing. Fitzjames and his companions accompUshed their adventiux>us journey, but not without serious difficulty •
Tins duty attended to, the warps were taken on board, the paddles unshipped, and other arrangements made to enable the * Euphrates' to commence her
DESCENT TO THE LOWER EUPHEATBS. 321
descent, which she did on October 31 — dropping down chap.
XVIII
the stream with some risk and even damage to herself, >- — . — ^ from constantly running against the banks. This was only while passing through the shallows. Once in the open part of the river, our paddles were reshipped, and we were steaming down-stream with our one effective engine.
We were already off El-Khudhr on November 3, Ei-Khudhr and lieard one or two shots fired as we passed. We did not see the balls strike the water, but, fearing that they might have been intended for us, we rounded to at once, and remained a httle time close to the village ; after which, observing no further hostile demonstrations, we steamed onward to Kut, where we received fresh assurances of support from the great Sheikh, who even went so far as to express his readiness, on any future occasion, to go with us himself, in order to make sure that his dependents conducted themselves properly. Green poplar- wood, obtained with some loss Return lo of time at Sheikh-el-Shuyukh, carried us down to Basrah at reduced speed, and we brought up again alongside of the * Hugh Lindsay ' on November 8. We had the great satisfaction of finding from her engineer that he was provided with means to do all that we required, and thus we had the unexpected prospect of seeing our little vessel once more efficient without much delay.
The next consideration was how best to employ the two-and-a-half months which remained to us up to Jan- uary 31, 1837, at which period the funds voted by Parha- ment would cease to be available for the Expedition. This was a subject of most anxious thought to me. My original instructions, emanating from the India
Y
322
NABBATIVE OF THE EUmRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. XVILL
Proposed furvey of Indian riven.
Pecide to proooed to Bombay.
Major EHtcoort left in command.
Board, were to the effect that * on reaching Basrah, the Eicpedition was to be placed under the command of the Bombay Government' * It had been considered that the arrival of our two river-steamers in the Persian Gulf would give an opportunity for some useful service not to be lost, and that when we should have descended the Euphrates, the vessels might accomplish some other important object. Accordingly, instructions were given by the Supreme Government of India with this \new.
But by the time these orders were received, the * Tigris ' had been carried to the bottom, and there were no longer two steamers available for the service in ques- tion— the survey of the Indian rivers. One vessel, it is true, was still effective, and a good deal might yet be done with her could she be taken to the Indus witliout risk ; but as this, at the best, could only have given means, on a crippled scale, of carrying out an extensive survey, the Supreme Government of India might think it unadvisable to continue the survey in Mesopotamia for the present. These points, however, could only be decided by the Supreme Government in conjunction with that of Bombay, and it seemed advisable, all thinir? considered, that I should at once proceed thither f(;r instructions.
I therefore arranged that, during my absence. Major Estcourt should take the command, and that as soon
• * Should you arrive at Basrah by descending the Euphrates, you will consider yourself to be under the command of the Bombay OovemmeDt. You will immediately on your arriral repair and refit your stoamboats, so as to be enabled to execute any orders you may receive.' — l*art of L)rJ Ellenborough*s letter (No. 2) to Colonel Chesrey, dated Januaiy 24,18.111 Papers ordered to be printed, February 23, 1836.
Also ibid., paragraph 11 : * On your arrival at Bombay you will place yourself under the orders of the Bombay Government.*
MAJOR ESTCOURT SURVEYS THE KARUN. 323
as our steamer should aeain be in an efficient state, the chap.
. XVIII.
Kariin and Bali-a-Mishir should be carefully surveyed ; ^ — . — ^
and that, after accomplishing these objects, he should ascend the Tigris to Bagdad, and be prepared to break up the Expedition at that city, if such should be the decision of the Indian Government.
At the moment of my departure for India under these circumstances, the * Euphrates ' was steaming towards Mohammerah, where, after a little delay for fuel, the contemplated surveys were commenced, some account of which may be briefly given, almost in the words of the distinguished oflScer under whom they were carried on, accompanied by Messrs. Charlewood, Ainsworth, and Bassam.
After making an examination of the Karun-el- Ascent Amrah, the Dorak or Zelahiyah, and the system of Karun. canals in that neighbourhood by which the Eiver Jerahi is almost drained, the party passed on by land to Ahwaz (the ancient Aginis), where they found the steamer already at anchor below the ledges of rock which cross the Kariin. These rocks being impassable for our Major vessel. Major Estcom-t and his party ascended in a asSfto country boat by Wais to Band-i-Kir, at which place the ^^'^' two branches of the Karun unite — that called the Ab-i- Diz, and the eastern branch al§o, both of which flow by the city of Shuster. In descending from Ahwaz, the steamer, after making a fi-esh examination of the Bah-a- Mishir, proceeded by Mohammerah to Basrah, and on to Eumah.
A * kufah,' or round wicker-boat, had been already sent up the river by Major Estcourt with coals, in addi- tion to two other coal-boats, which it was now found
T 2
324 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, had been detained by one of the Arab sheikhs, who
xvm ^ — ,— 1- endeavoured to exact tribute in contravention of the
arrangements which had been made with the head of the Montcfek. These boats therefore were taken in tow, and, to the astonishment of the people along the Tigris, the steamer proceeded up the river, dragging two heavy boats, apparently (as far the people could judge) with undiminished speed. By the time they reached Kut-el-Amrah, one of the boatloads of coal had been consumed.
Christmas Day was spent between the sites of Ctesi- phon and Seleucia, and the next day they reached The Bagdad. Although the waters had not beffun to rise,
TfAches says Major Estcourt, it seemed advisable to start at once, and to await their rising in our passage upwards. On January 2, 1837, therefore, the bridge of boats being unmoored, the steamer, with several visitors on board, moved past tlie Pacha's palace and along the date- groves and gardeas to Kaymen, and upward to Sherriat- Ancient el-Bcitlia, the presumed site of ancient Sittace. Xext
Sittace. . ^
day, owing to a gale of considerable force, the sky was obscured, and the whole atmosphere loaded with dust, and it continued thus during the day's ascent of 20 miles; when owing to shallow water, and to the vessel not steering well, she ran against a bank, and in doing so the upper ring of the rudder was broken. Steering, especially in shallow water, now became out of the question, and thus an immediate return to Bagdad was necessary in order to repair the injury, and, at the same time, increase the size of the rudder so as to have a greater command over the vessel.
But by the time this alteration was completed tlie
r
MA JOE ESTCOURT's DESERT J0UR2sT:Y. 325
period for breaking up the Expedition had arrived ; chap. and as the seamen, more especially those obtained from * — . — ^
the cruisers in the Persian Gulf, were not subject to the restraint of martial law (which had, in the first instance, been given with some restrictions to the Expedition), they caused so much uneasiness by their conduct that it was thought advisable by Major Estcourt to send 'away the Discharge
_ - , , - , of Bcamen.
most troubeisome among them, and return the others to the vessels from which they had been lent to the Euphrates Service. These arrangements being made, and the steamer left in charge of Mr. Hector at Bagdad, Major Estcourt prepared to return to England with the rest of the officers and men.
Just as they were about to leave Bagdad on their way home, authority was received from the Government of Bombay to continue the Expedition. But as it was no longer eflTective in point of men. Major Estcourt at once decided to carry out the orders previously received from the Home Government. Accordingly, on Jan- uary 24, the party started on camels to cross tlie desert Major to Damascus, where they arrived on February 1 4, after party cnL having been more than once seriously menaced by the ^ ®*^^ Bedawin.
One of these threatened attacks occurred near El-Kaim, where the approach of a body of horsemen, evidently hostile, menaced the little party with serious danger, which Major Estcourt immediately encountered by placing his men in a circle, so as to be ready to meet an attack on any side. Upon this a flag was displayed Attacks by the Arabs on a spear-head on the crest of a hill in desert. the rear, on which signal another party came gallop- ing towards them from that direction, whilst many
32 G NARRATIVE OP TUE EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
CHAP, more collected from the other hills around ; but their
XVIII
' — , — '^ advance was checked by a few shots from some of th* cameleers. They were now, liowever, in considerable numbers, and enclosed Major Estcourt's little party withhi a circle at a distance of about 100 yards; but, seeing that everything was ready for their reception, , the Arabs contented themselves with continuing their warlike demonstrations for a time without doing more. With the exception of tlie appearance, near Palmyra, of about a dozen mounted Arabs, who rode away on find- ing there was no opening for an attack, no other incidents of this sort disturbed the even tenor of the httle party's Arrival of dcscrt joumcy, through Palmyra and Damascus to Estcourt Beii fit, and thence by the mail-steamer to England. A in Eng- gratuity was given, by order of the Government, to the
land.
remaining seamen and soldiers, as an acknowledgment of their very exemplary and meritorious services; and the artillerymen, as well as the sappers and miners, were returned to their own corps with that markeil approbation which their conduct and exertions had so well deserved.
327
CHAPTER XIX.
REACH BOMBAY — REFERENCE TO THE OOTERNOR-GENERAL — DAK JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR OP INDIA — RETURN TO BOMBAY.
It was from the deck of the ' Hugh Lindsay ' that ^¥^' I took my last look at our vessel, then preparing ^-' — • — " to leave Mohammerah, to complete the service, of which I have given an account in the preceding chapter.
The * Euphrates' steamer had been to me an object of Take leave the deepest interest for the last two years ; and it was * Euphra- with mingled feelings of thankfulness for the past, and steamer. of anxiety as to the future success of this our initiation of the great Euphrates Eoute to India, that I took what proved to be my farewell look at the vessel as we descended the Shatt-el-Arab.
The * Hugh Lindsay ' reached Bushire on November 17, took in a supply of coal at Bassadore, and another at Muscat, and reached Bombay on December 1.
I was received with the greatest kindness by the Arrive at Governor of Bombay, Sir Eobert Grant, and his Lady, at their summer residence, Parell ; and I had the still higher gratification of finding that, both there and else- where, the strongest interest existed in the grand question of an overland steam-communication between England and India vid the Euphrates. But how to promote and assist this object was the great consideration with
328
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDrn05.
CHAP. XIX.
Rtfferonce to tho (iowmor- GoiitTal uf Indi:i.
Intoro8t fU I^)mba7 in tho overland oonimuni- cation with England.
Wont of knowledge of Httum- power.
US all, more especially as to how far the present Expe- dition might be made available for this purpose.
I ventured to propose to the Governor in Couucil to open the Red Sea and Euphrates Lines for alteriiato monthly communications to England, experimentally, for twelve months. This however, it was decidi'd, was a question for the decision of the Supreme Govern- ment of India. Consequently, my arrival was at once reported to the Governor-General, while I expressed my readiness to proceed to Calcutta, as the best mean< of entering fully into the steam-question. The poiuti to be decided were — 1st, whether the present Expedi- tion should be continued ; 2ndly, whether, if it were to be broken up on January 31 (as previously con- templated), the remaining steamer should be taken to the Indus, in accordance with our original instructions, or not.
During the time which must necessarily be allowed for the arrival of an answer to my letter to the Governor-General, all those concerned in the question, especially the mercantile community of Bombay, were keenly alive to the necessity of organising the overland Une of communication with England at once, and it was even proposed to raise money for this purpose on the spot. But steam-na\igation for lengthened or distimt voyages was still in its infancy, and although some persons considered that a large and powerful steamer might reach the Persian Gulf during the south-wTst monsoon, a passage to the Bed Sea during that season was almost universally regarded as quite impracticable. The public mind being impressed with these objections, it is not suiprising that doubts and
THE EUPIIEATES QUESTION IK CONXECTION WITH INDIA. 329
possible difficulties should have stood in the way of the ch^vp. practical development of this great question at that * — r-^
time.
That there should be any hesitation as to its imme- diate adoption now — when science has triumphed over all the natural obstacles which seemed so formidable thirty or forty years ago — must be a matter of surprise and of deep regret to all thoughtful and practical men, who see and acknowledge in the carrying out of this short and direct line of communication along the Euphrates, not only untold commercial advantages to England, but safety and happiness to India.
Whatever disappointment there might have been, liowever, with regard to the knowledge and apprecia- tion of tlie powers of steam, there was none in other respects. The most gratifying feehng was manifested towards the Euphrates Expedition throughout the T)eninsula of India. The Chamber of Commerce of ^^^^ ,
* presented
Bombay voted a gold-mounted sword to tlie Commander, and
... . subacrip-
and expressed tlieir determination to open a subscription tion raised for the benefit of the rchitives of the brave men who had perished in the ' Tigris.' This idea was warmly taken up throughout India, and 500/. eventually passed through my hands, and was distributed among the rela- tions of the deceased men.
Wliile waiting for a reply from the Governor-Gene- ral about the future services of the Euphrates Expedi- tion, the carefully-kept archives of Bombay gave me the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the prac- tical working of the postal line through Arabia.
This line was organised and carried out under the direction and special superintendence of that most
330 NARRATIVE OF TUB EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOX.
cH.vp. distinguished Governor-General, the Marquis Wellesley.
XXX
— ' . ' " Fast vessels of small size were employed in making WtJuwievs fortnightly voyages between Basrah and Bombay, and PJI^]^*"* Arab couriers, mounted on dromedaries, kept up a Arabuu regular communication with Aleppo, fix>m whence Tartars — called * hfe-and-death Tartars* — carried the despatches to and from Constantinople. The sea-voyage usually occupied from ten to fifteen days between Basrah and Bombay, and these voyages were equally continued during the SW. monsoon. Its Titai It was on this postal line through Arabia that Eng-
to fJ^UiS land dei)ended, during the great French war, for «irly Um?.*^ intelligence of the progress of the contest with Tippou Saib, as well as of other momentous campaigns, on the result of which the preservation of our Indian Empire constantly depended. The earliest intelligence was then — as, indeed, it has been more recently also — of vital imix)rtance to the nation, and the utmost exertions were made to secure it. Towards the close of the last cen- tiuy it was well known, to those more immediately interested in the question, that an overland communi- cation had been kept up with India through Arabia. But without a carefiil examination of the archives existing at Bombay, it woidd scarcely be possible fully and adequately to appreciate the care with w^hich Lord Wellesley maintained a fortnightly postal line between Sir Har- England and India. The Arabian portion of this line lirjdg^s.^ was kept up for many years by die East India Com- pany's Eesident at Basrah, then Sir Harford Jones Brydges.
A reference on my part to what had been accom- plished at that period caused the Bombay Government
INDIAN DAK journey. 331
to give directions that the ' dromedary d&k ' should be chap. reopened, under the immediate charge of Mr. Hector. — r-^ This was done (as compared with Lord Wellesley's J^?^^' time) with the great advantage of steamers instead of *^^® ^^ sailing-vessels. Whilst, however, these preparatory ^^°®*- steps were in progress, the more immediate measure was taken by the Indian Government of forwarding directions to Major Estcourt (December 21), to continue Directions
to Major
the service on which he was engaged, instead of termi- Estcourt to
nating the Expedition on Januaiy 31, 1837, in accord- theEu-
ance with the instructions of the Home Government. In LrTioo.
any case, however, this would only have given one
line of communication, whilst • the necessities of India
required at least a second, and it was deemed advisable
that I should proceed to Calcutta to lay the whole Jottmcy
'- '^ from
question before the Governor-General. It was now the Bombay to
... Mhow.
end of February ; travelling in India was a very different thing in 1836 from what it is now; and the capital could only be reached by sea, or by a tedious journey of relays of d4ks. I decided on the latter alternative, taking the route of Agra and Delhi in order to see some- thing more of India. The caves of Ellora, the battle- ground of Assay e, and the wonderful caves of Ajunta, were all visited in turn, but I pass over the incidents of tliis journey as irrelevant to my present narrative.
On reaching Mhow, my progress was unexpectedly stopped by the intelligence that the Governor-General, J^^^iand' Lord Auckland, thought it advisable to postpone the c^^ange of
piaiio.
opening of the Overland Eoute, and that he was not prepared to carry out his previoics intention of placing steamers on the Eiver Indus. There was, therefore, no longer any object in going to Calcutta; on the
332 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, contrary, it seemed best to return to Bombay as rapidly
' — A-^ as possible, in order to complete the arrangements
now in progress, and then to rejoin the Expedition at
Bagdad. My hne of route was through Oodeypore—
a place never to be forgotten from its singular
BomU*^ beauty — and onwards through Ahmedabad to the
Gulf of Cambay, whence the Grovernment schooner
' Tapti ' carried me to Bombay on April 18. The
' Hugh Lindsay * had not appeared in die roadstead,
and I was already anticipating the pleasure of rejoining
the party on board our little vessel at Bagdad, when I
received a letter from Major Estcourt, informing me
that the directions to continue the Euphrates Service
Kxpotiition had reaclicd him too late, and that he was by that
broken up. ^j^^ somc distaucc ou the way to England, after ha\*ing
returned the borrowed seamen to their ships.
This was a most serious disappointment to me, because I had expected that the Euphrates Service would have been kept open, until such a class of steamers could have been put on the line as would have been suited to do the work more effectually. It was now, however, impossible for me to return to England with the officers and men of the Expedition, and nothing remained but to take the speediest route for home in order to close our laboiu's.
It was decided that my Une should be the direct one through Arabia, instead of that by Bagdad. The ' Hugh Lindsay,' just returned from service at Manga- i^ave l^^G^ sailed on April 2 8, for the Persian Gulf, carrying the ^°J!mtv' despatches relating to the insurrection at the former Hcr^^tho* place. As these were of great importance, I felt it to deacrt. \^q j^y duty to offer to take charge of them ; and they
PREPARATIONS FOR THE DESERT JOURNEY. 333
were accordingly placed in my bands, with the under- chap.
. XIX
standing that I was to carry them, with all practicable - — r-^
speedy fix)m sea to sea across the desert. On May G we reached Muscat, on the 9th we passed Bassadore, and on the evening of the 14th, we were alongside the Company's cruiser ' Tigris ' at Basrah Creek. An over- land mail, which had just arrived, brought us the cheering intelligence that two steamers were about to be sent out, under the command of Lieutenant Lynch, to open a mail-communication by the way of tlie Euphrates. .
The next morning saw me preparing for my rapid propara- homeward journey, accompanied as far as Zobeir by desert °^ Lieutenant Charles Campbell, who had rendered me J^'^®^*- the very material assistance of laying down the compass- bearings to Damascus — viz., NW. by W.^W. — to aid me in directing, my course by day, and had also ascertained that the stars Castor and Pollux would be above the horizon, to serve as my unfailing guides by night. I engaged two Arabs and four * deluls,' or hght camels, for crossing the desert. These animals are far pre- ferable to the dromedary (tlie ' ragin ' or ' mahary ') and also to the ' khowas ' or heavier camel of burthen, whicli, though a much more powerful, is also a slower beast, and would in this case have consumed too much time. The ii-ms The ' deluls ' carry a light burthen, combined with capa- camris.**'^ bilities of considerable speed. The preparations of my Arabs consisted of some rice, a bag of dates, flour to make bread, and a supply of water ; and my own were almost equally simple, being limited to rice, biscuits, tea, and coffee, with brandy for occasional use, especially Equip- to make the water more drinkable. My personal equip- provisions. ments were an Arab dress, and a kind of canopy, which
334 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, was spread on four light poles, to give protection fix)m ^-^ / ' ^ the sun when halting ; when in motion, I held a cloak above my head, by means of a stout walkingstick, as a more eflScacious protection from the sun than the Arab ' keffeyeh' alone. Such were the preparations for my long and solitary journey through the desert.
335
CHAFTER XX.
[JRKEY ACROSS THE ARABIAN DESERT — RETURN TO ENGLAND, AND TERMINATION OF TUB EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
RLY on the morning of May 15 we took our departure chap.
m Zobeir — myself, my two attendant Arabs, two nels, and two horses, which latter were to be ex- i^^®
Zobeir.
mged for two * deluls ' at the end of our first short ^'s journey. Near Zobeir we crossed what are, no jbt, the remains of the great Canal of Pallacopas ; and The
^ . , Pallacopas
n afterwards we came upon one of those living Canai
tures of the desert, which would well repay an
ist for many a monotonous day's travelling. The
isiderable tribe of the Ibn-Souad was migrating Migratidn
itward from the vicinity of Tadmor : the women tribes.
1 children mounted on camels — ^the men in their
ituresque attire, with their horses, cattle, and arms, —
jsented a most effective picture amidst the stillness
all nature in the desert.
I do not propose to detain the reader by the daily
:^ils of my almost solitary ride of twenty-two days
•OSS the Arabian Desert. But, as this journey was
ique in its way, some account of our progress, and of
;h incidents as are characteristic of desert travelling
Arabia, will not be wanting in interest.
Our first halt towards sunset was at the tents of the
abdi Arabs, a branch of the Montefijk, where I heard
336 NARRATIVE OF THE KUPHR-\TES EXPEDmOX.
CHAP, mv own Arab attendant telling, as a piece of news, that ^-' \ ' ' I was Hawajji Yusuf from Bombay — a story which must have originated in my arrival by the 'Hugh Lindsay ' : at all events, I continued to bear tliis ap- pellation during the whole journey. A day« Wc Fcsumed our journey at 2 a.m., which was indaxl
in the our usual hour for starting for our da-ys jouniey of ^^ ' 19 hoimi. The Arabs pointed out Sheikh -el-Shuyukh at about six miles to the XE. We travelled all day over a sandy plain, with scanty grass and camel-thorn, to the well Rsarlii, meeting the Eassier Arabs, who were also on tlie move. They were a large tribe. Their women were all mounted on camels, and each was shade<l from tlie sun by a kind of canopy stretched over her head. Onwards we rode over the same sandy plain, halting ai one time for Moslem prayers, and at another for our longer rest at the tents and wells of Hawadia, which are culled four days' journey from Basrah. We had made 50 miles during the day. Here the Arabs baked their bread and then fell asleep — their heads, as usual, quite buried in their * abbas ' — while I souglit repose uuder my flying tent, after a traveller's meal. Sliding With a view to induce my Arabs to accomphsh tbe
wLhish. longest possible distance each day, I de\nsed a scale of ' backshish,' which was to increase or diminish accordini: to the number of days consumed in reachhig Damarjcus. With tlie help of this device, we managed to do as much each day as our camels could accomplish, usually start- ing at midniglit, or soon afterwards, and seldom stopping until sunset for food and a short season of repose — our s(»anty meals being otherwise easily taken as we travelled on.
LIFE IN THE ARABIAN DESERT. 337
The character of the desert during our third day's chap. journey was arid and stony, with the exception of one - — ^.-^ beautiful refreshing little oasis, bright with trees and the desert. herbs, which tempted us to halt for breakfast. We passed through several * wadis ' — those of El-Eshcol, El- Hauran, and many more — which are rocky and occasion- ally enclosed by hills ; and before midday we halted for half an hour in the bed of a river, where my rice was cooked and eaten under the shade of my cloak spread over a bush, the thermometer being at 104°. Beyond this resting-place we crossed a stony plain, on which were several low circles of stones (evidently artificial), each about 20 feet in diameter. The Kirja mountain lay a Uttle to the N. by E. This day we calculated that we had made 61 miles in 18 hours. We saw gazelles and hares occasionally during our succeeding day's journey over stony ground, with the thermometer at 109*^ under the canvas, and 135° outside. the desert.
Our midday halt was at the entrance of the Wadi Meredji. Here our rice could not be cooked nor tea made for want of water, and our slender meal consisted of biscuits, and the Arab preparation (made from flour) called 'muggle,' which is rather an agreeable acid drink, though I felt the want of my usual refreshing tea. I managed to protect my head in some degree from the fierce heat of the sun, by a towel folded inside the fez, and by holding a part of my cloak aloft by means of a stick. We were still traversing a hard surface of clayey soil, with scanty bushes. Hares and gazelles were the only living creatures we met while we traversed the wastes of El-Kaim and El-Birs, and passed tlie well of Bahr-el-Meshed. At one time during this day, the
z
33S NARRATIVE OF TUB EUPHRATES EXPEDITIOK.
CHAP. Euphrates appeared reflected above the horizon in a — ^ . — ' very remarkable manner, when we must have been at ^^^"^ least 24 miles distant from it
^^ The evenings were always delicjotisly refi'eshing, the
tliennometer falling to 77**. The Arabs generally made llie temperature still more enjoyable to themselves by di-'pensing ahnost entirely with their usual clothing. We generally hidted for four hours, resting and feedii^ our animals alternately during that time, and then resuming our journey. We endeavoured to avoid the Bedawin encampments as much as possible, but coming upon one of them, near the foot of Tel-el-Bin — which bore a strong resemblance to Balkis Hill, near Bir— we w^ere hospitably received by the Slaib, a sectioo of Bedawin thcsc gipsy Bcda^viu. They were encamped on ooe side of the sandy plain at the foot of the Jebel-Kara range of hills. Their tents are of a peculiar am- Tiicir struction, well-suited to the habits of these wandering *'*"^** hunters of the desert, being exceedingly light, and easily removed firom place to place. They wot eight feet long, and barely three feet high at the ridge, from which the sides, made of double camelV hair cloth to resist the sun, slope downwards to the surface of the ground. A gazelle was cooked for us immediately, but they paid themselves rather un- worthily for their hospitaUty and trouble by secreting my only travelling-rug.
We had now passed a week in the desert, and were making satisfactory progress. On May 24 the re- Rofniction flectiou of the great river suddenly appeared for the *^"" second time most distinctly : so powerful was the re- fraction, that tlic wide-spread stream seemed to be
ENCAMPMBNT OP THE SLAIB ARABS, 339
close at hand, and I could not have believed it to be an chap.
XX
illusion, had I not known that we were then at a distance > — .-^— ' of at least 30 miles from the nearest point to the Euphrates at El-Kaim.
We came upon a supply of water about this time, when it occurred to me that the great power of the sun would be sufficient to enable me to make my tea, Tea made and dispense with our usual fire. I tlierefore exposed ©f the^sun.^ two bottles of water to its rays — with the thermometer at 105°, — and I found that I could make, by this means, as good tea as that drunk by the Chinese coolies. I frequently made tea afterwards in this primitive manner, and found my discovery invaluable on many occasions during this desert journey.
On and on we journeyed, over the same hard pebbly surface — occasionally varied by a rounded distant hill, slight undulations, and a few stunted shrubs — till we reached another encampment of the Slaib Arabs, where camp. "we were well received. All the women wore large rings in the right cartilage of the nose ; and they were round-faced and decidedly pretty brunettes, for Arab vromen, wlio are not remarkable for beauty. But many ^"^^^
*' -^ women.
of the children and men were afflicted and disfigured "With weak eyes. A salted gazelle was produced as a treat for us, but the excessive sufibcating heat in their low crowded tent made any eating out of the question, beyond my usual fare of a little rice.
From 50 to 60 miles was our average day's journey : sometimes we had tc diverge from our direct line^ to avoid the Aniza or some other dreaded Arab tribe. We had by May 25 accomplished quite half our dis- tance, and our four ' ships of the desert ' were still
z2
340 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXFEDITIOK.
CHAP, as effective as at the start, notwithstanding their short
w
-" ^ ' - rests and limited feeding-time. The powers of eadu-
^ 1**â„¢*'* p ranee of these animals excited my wonder and admira- endurance, ^j^^,^ ^^ ^^^ Came upon a less arid part of the
Nichtin- desert, and our jxk)! animals found both grass and
i^ti"-. more abundant camel-thorn, while we had the enjoy- '** ' meut of the sweet notes of the nightingale issuing firom little bu.>hes of the liquorice plant. We were juat entering the rocky bed of a river with the hope of water, when the cry of ' Arabs ! ' caused us to retreat hastily, and turn off in a northerly direction; but,
A well c»f lia])pily, in the afternoon we came upon a well, where we were consoled for our morning's disappointment by a supply of refi'cshing water.
We passed also a tepid saline stream, similar to and n(^ doubt connected with the more considerable one near Ilit. We were now halting in a grand and rocky valley, resembling in scenery tliat of Wa^li Holla. On May 26 we reached Wadi Hauran, and
Unwilling- liere my Arabs began to express reluctance topn>
iifSN of my
Anib8 to ceed any fartlier, and all the encouragement I could ^"^* * give was needed to induce them to go on. We had again got over 51 miles in eighteen hours, with tlie thermometer still at 115° outside, and 108'' under mv little awning. We saw a fox this afternoon, which gave liopes of more water ; but we were disappointed, and for once the Arabs missed their way, and took up their quarters for the night close to an ant's nest, which proving a decidedly uncomfortable resting-place, we removed our quarters at once. Daylight showed us that we were only a short distance from our intended }>lacc of encampment. On resuming our journey we came to some moist ground. The moment the Arabs
INCIDENTS OF THE DESERT JOURNEY. 341
perceived this they sprang from their camels, and with chap. their hands and two small drinking-cups began scrap- * — »-^—
ing up every drop of water, first for their animals, and then by the same process obtauiing a little muddy liquid for themselves.
Passing through a valley scarcely a mile wide, we riain of entered upon the wide Plain of Tadmor, occasionally meeting low hills clothed with scanty grass. We stopped to rest about noon ; but as this was our second Quarrel halt within a few hours, some remonstrances passed Xl^l,"*^ between me and the Arabs in consequence, which led to high words between us. Eeflecting, however, that this was an awkward state of things, especially in the Arabian desert, I made an overture of peace by asking for water, which the younger of my com- panions hastened to bring me, with evident pleasure : it Koconciiia- was both given and received as a token of peace ; while ^^^' I expended my whole stock of Arabic in assurances to my two followers, that but little time now remained in which to accomplish the remainder of our journey. They appeared to understand, and from that time forth continued faithfully to do their best.
On May 28, an earlier halt than usual became ne- ^ <»"»«!
falltf lame.
cessary, in consequence of one of the camels falling lame. This seemed to me to be a very serious misfor- tune at first ; but the Arabs immediately sewed a piece of thick leather over the bhstered part of the creature's foot, and it was again as ready for work as ever. During the 29th, we re-entered the Plain of Palmyra, and jmssed Plain of the ruined village of Antar. We were tlien about *^"*^'''*' parallel to Anna, and saw some hills of moderate height to the SW., one of which (Mount Crooge) appeared to be of volcanic rock. Our landmarks were now
342 NAKR.\TIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP, becoming more frequent and more varied. On May 30, --' .' ' ^ we had the pleasurable sight of the three castles of Komania, occupying the crests of a bold range of hills on the western side of the valley of this name, having a parallel but lower range on its eastern side ; so that there could no longer be any doubt that we had fairly Valley of entered the plain and valley of Tadmor. This valley became narrower as we proceeded towards its uppo: extremity, where we cUmbed the pass leading into Uie Wadi El-Hairy, which is bounded by the Ain- Anadja liills on the right, and gradually widened into a plain as Wadi El- we descended it, until, under the name of Wadi H- Gewm. Gcrem, it brought us to our resting-place a little before midnight. Daikness prevented me from making out the character of the country, but I tliought that by })ushing on, after a short rest, we might still be able to ac- CDiiiplish our journey within the appointed time. Tlie camels, however, were quite unable to add to the 48 miles they had already made ; and I therefore preparcl to leave them and proceed on foot, so as to be able either to send or take the despatches in time for the mail. rrijKiro to Foreseeing the possible contingency of the camels X^v^xxTmh. breaking down, I had on leaving the steamer provided myself with sufficient food, in a very compact form, to last at least two days. But, when actually starting, my two faithful followers grasped my cloak, and with teaK in their eyes, implored me to remain until the morning ; to which I reluctantly, but fortunately for myself, consented — since I was not, as they were, aware that we were still at some distance from Palmyra.
On we went, getthig over 54 miles on May 31, during
foot.
THE SALT LAKE AND PALMYRA. 343
which day I expected every hour to come within sight of chap. the ruins : at one moment the barking of dogs, at anotlier ' — -^-^ the cry of ^ Tadmor ! — Tadmor ! — Tadmor ! ' excited my hopes to the highest degree. On, on still, during the whole of June 1. The double-topped mountain of Jebel Antar, and later in the day the bold outline of the Tadmor mountains, came in sight, but not Palmyra ; and we were forced to halt at 10 p.m., after a journey of 57 miles, but so near to our desired goal that we could hear the barking of the dogs, and knew that we were almost on the borders of the Salt Lake. We were off by four o'clock in tlie morning, and crossing the salt-incrusted plain, we kept in a parallel line to the lake, until dayhglit showed us first the mountains behind Palmyra, with the town of Eacca on one part of their summit, and a castellated building on another.
Diverging from the Salt Lake, Palmyra itself opened Sait i^ke upon us, and we had a glorious view of these exten- Palmyra. sive ruins. The two castles, the Temple of the Sun, and the Grand Colonnade, were distinctly visible ; but not allowing myself more than a passing glance at them, I hastened onwards, hoping to find speedier means of completing the journey than our tired camels could Beach afford. I was, however, doomed to disappointment. ^*^â„¢J^' Neither animals nor messengers were to be found. There was nothing for it but to prosecute the journey towards Damascus with our poor and already over- worked animals, with the reservation on my part that, if they absolutely broke down, I could still proceed on foot. My good Arabs no longer made any objection to continue the journey, after a few hours' rest to recruit the poor camels, and this interval was spent by me in
344 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION,
ciTAP. exploring the beautiful remains of the city of Zenobia.
At four o'clock the next morning we were again on our way.
For the next four days we travelled on as fast as the state of our wearied animals would permit. We passed
Kari»te«n. the Considerable town of Kariateen, and the villages of Nasaim and Jerud, and halted at an Arab camp on the evening of June 4, where I learnt that Seyd Ali had passed on with the mails only two days before me. A messenger was here available, and therefore I seut him on to Damascus, to mform Mr. Farren that I was at hand witli the despatches, that he might be prepared
pamascus to forward them at once on my arrival. Following my messenger during the night, we were within sight of Damascus by daybreak, and were cheered by tlie enlivening siglit, to us desert travellers, of groups o{ pcx)ple either entering or leaving the city, and of the
Caraviin of cHcampment of the caravan of Pei'sian pilgrims on their ^ ""** way to Mecca — some with green tents, others with tlie ordinary dark tents of the country. The former we found belonged to some royal dames of the household of tlie late Prince Eoyal, Abbas Mirza, who were ou their way to the Shrine of the Prophet.
The rising sun imparted some of his brilliancy to the dome and minarehs of the city, and a share of his cheering influence to oiu* hearts, and apparently to our wearied animals also ; for their renewed exertions as we approached Damascus seemed to tell us that they too knew that tlieir journey of 958 miles was nearly over.
Arri\Tii at As wc entered the city I learnt that our Consul- General (Mr. Farren) was in the country, and I was turning towards the house of tlie French Consul,
BEIRUT AND ALEXANDRIA. 345
M. Baudin (from whom I had received many kindnesses chap. in 1830 and 1831), when, on my way thither, I was so — r-^— '
fortunate as to fall in with Signor Biaggi, from whom I Mo<ting had parted on the evening of the memorable day on si^^nor -which we commenced our descent of the Euphrates. ^'^*^** I seized my kind friend by the arm, to his unutterable surprise ; for 22 days' exposure to a burning sun liad scarcely left one recognisable feature in my counte- nance, and I was obliged to prove to him that it was not a Bedawin who had accosted him so uncere- moniously, before he could feel reassured. Then^ his i[ig hoj^^y hearty welcome can never be forgotten, nor the plea- ^^'^*^°^°- sure of his excellent breakfost, after my scanty desert fare for three weeks. Letters, public and private, from Europe awaited me ; but scai'cely allowing myself time to read them, and refusing Mr. Farren's proflered hos- pitality, I pressed forward on horseback to Beirut, with the hope of catching the mail-boat for Alexandiia the next night.
The gates of Beirut were closed l)efore I reached Reach that place, and I only got into the town the next la'tofoptiio morning to experience the disappointment of hearing ^^^' that Seyd Ali had sailed on the previous day. To reach Alexandria in time for the next steamer was therefore all-important, and to accomphsh this I hired a small vessel of the country as my only resource. We sailed the same evening (June 7), but had to saiifrom contend with such baffling winds and calms that we ^^^^ only entered the harbour of Alexandria on the 17th. The nine days thus spent did not, however, seem long. TJnintermitting exertion, and constant anxiety to accomplish my purpose, had suspended, as it were, the
34C 5ARRATTVE OF THE EUPHRATES RXPEDITIOK.
CHAP, prostrating effects of twenty-two days' travelling on a
— .1-, — ' camel, for nineteen hours out of every twenty-four.
5(^|^j^^ But tuHc Nature had her turn, and, with the exception
frr'thir ^^ short waking intervals to take food, I slept uninter-
■■»*^ ruptedly fix)m Beirut, until we entered the harbour of
Alexandria, where the quarantine boat came off with the
news tliat Seyd Ah had only arrived there the previous
day, and that I was quite in time for the French
steamer.
Tmc^xto As there was no other immediate opportunity of
reaching England, I determined to go on by her,
although this involved the delay of going round by
Syra. Taking with me the general mails brought by
Soyd Ah, we sailed on June 18. We made Syra on the
21st, Malta on the 28th, and Leghorn on July 4,
where we perceived that the numerous vessels lying
abreast of the town had their colours half-mast high.
We knew at once that this betokened some unusual
Death of evout, and we learnt only too soon, from the quarantmc
William -m-n. -tt-t
IV. boat, that William IV was no more.
Thirty busy years have elapsed since the deatli of our late revered Sovereign, the spontaneously warm friend and supporter of the Euplirates Expedition, but the feeling which followed tliis melancholy inteUigence is almost as fresh as ever.
Arrive at ^y^ rcachcd Marseilles on July 5, and were care- fully lockol up, as usual, in the Lazaretto. The des- patches I had carried, and the rest of the mail, after being fimiigated under my eyes, were sent forward by the evening's train. Improving health, and unremit- ting occupation in preparing the various Expedititm
Laarotto. clocuiiieiits for Govemuicnt, prevented the three weeks
WINDING-UP OP THE EXPEDITION. 347
spent in the Lazaretto from seeming tedious : a chap. pleasant journey along the coast of France through ^ — r-^ Brest followed, and I reported my arrival at the oflSce Return to
*- "^ ^ London.
of the Board of Control on August 8. A busy period ensued, attendant on the winding-up of all the affairs of the Expedition.
Settlements with the officers, soldiers, and seamen, for Settlement pay, as well as traveUing expenses and losses in the dition ac- ' Tigris ; ' the return of the chronometers, astronomical and surveying instruments, which had been lent for this service by the Board of Ordnance and Admiralty ; preparations for engraving the maps of the Eiver Euphrates, making out an account of the general outlay of the Expedition, with the production of vouchers to replace those lost in the 'Tigris,' were all matters involving serious work and employment of time. To assist in these and other objects, the Master- General of the Ordnance continued the services of two non-commissioned officers — Sergeant-major Quin, Eoyal Artillery, and Corporal Greenhill, Eoyal Engineers. The difficulty, however, of replacing all that had been carried to the bottom of the Euphrates in the steamer 'Tigris' was very great, even though each officer at once commenced the task of making out fresh vouchers for his share of the accounts, and the consular agents in Syria were apphed to for their part. While awaiting their repUes, we were occupied in laying down a dupli- cate set of maps of the Mesopotamian rivers on a scale of Lieutenant two inches to the mile, one of which was prepared for the appointed engraver ; the other was sent out to Lieutenant Lynch, Euphrates on September 30, to assist him in his future navigation. ^^^*
Early in October, I was occupied in moving, through
r
348 NARRATIVE OP TUE EUPHRATES £XPEDin05.
CHAP, Lord Glenclg, who had succeeded Sir John Hobhouse
XX .
^ — r-^— ' as President of the Board of Control, to obtain fix)m
the Goveniment promotion for the officers of the Expedition.
Mans com- ^^ Novcmbcr I kid the completed maps before the
picuxi. Duke of Wellington and Sir Eobert Peel, who encou- raged me to look for the assistance of Government in bringing out my intended work on the Expedition, and the countries through which it liad passed.
Promotion Early in 1838, the three naval officers, Messrs.
naval Charlewood, Fitzjames, and Eden, received their promo ^^'"* tion ; that of Lieutenant Cleaveland was delayed to fill up his sea-time.
Expondi- By the beginning of tlie new year the maps were
turu of the - - -
Expc-di- far advanced, a complete account was rendered to the
Treasury of the expenditure of 29,637/. 10^. 3| J.,* \\ith
the exception of a deficit of 117/., f for which I enclosed
a cheque, which was returned to me by the Lords of
The Com- tlic Treasury ; and I had the satisfaction of hearing
rocomraen- that their Lordships considered some mark of approba-
GoTem- ^ tion duc to the Commander of the Expedition.
^rae mirk This recommcndatiou gave me heartfelt satisfiactioiit
bluon."^ the more so as it happened that the Government minute
had only been in part carried out by conferring the
brevet of Lieutenant-Colonel from April 27, 1838,
* See Appendix 11., for details of the expenditure of the EzpeditioD.
t Some years after this time, when reading over the journal of our lamented Fitzjames, this deficiency of 117/. was accounted for in a w»y which had quite escaped my memory. During our transport difficulties between Suedia and the Lake of Antioch, I had given Fitxjamos about 100/. to pay our native workpeople their wages, the whole of which he lod through a hole in his pocket ! He duly reported this to me, offeriog to write to his father for the amount. But this (though he says tbit the * Coh)nol was very angry at the time *) I could notaUoWj and replaced the money out of my own private funds.
PROPOSED WORK ON THE EXPEDITION. 349
instead of the previous date of November 27, 1834.* chap. Lieutenant Lynch, who was second in command up to - ^^ _^ the sinking of the * Tigris,' having been entrusted with q/^^^^^*^" the new Expedition, it remains to mention the other remaining
* oflScers.
gentlemen. The four naval officers were promoted early in 1838, and after a little time Major Estcourt received a brevet Lieutenant-Colonelcy ; Mr. Hector continued in charge of the postal line between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf ; Mr. Taylour Thomson received a diplomatic appointment ;f and gratuities were given to the surviving soldiers and seamen. Dr. Staunton and Mr. Ainsworth alone remained, and still remain, of those under my command without some pubhc mark of approbation.
I did not expect, nor was I in any way prepared for, q^^^ the serious task of writmg a history of the Expedition ; ^^^ but, on being reminded that it was the duty of the ^â„¢J^^^ C!ommander to place the result of a national enterprise poiition. before the public, rather than employ another pen, as I had contemplated, I consented to make the attempt.
• The date of the breyet rank was chiefly valuable in my estimation as a proof of the approbation of Government. In a minute made by the Duke of Wellington when the preparations for the Expedition were completed, His Grace thus expresses himself with reference to the Commauder : * lie should go out as Colonel on a particular service, the highest rank that could be given^ and leave the rest to His Majesty^s Government.'
This minute waa followed by another, in which the President of the Rmrd of Control says : — ' I had already recommended Captain Chesney for the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel, on account of his past services, but the rank of Colonel on a particular service has been conferred on him. On the completion of this service in a satisfactory manner, I think it due to Colonel Chesney, that the original recommendation in regard to the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel by brevet should be acted upon — the Lieutenant-Coloners rank to be dated from November 27, 1834, which is the date of his commission as Colonel on this particular service.*
t Mr. Thomson is now Charge d'AfFaires and Consul-General in the Itepublic of Chili.
350 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
CHAP. On considcriDg the nature of the task I had under- -^ taken, it appeared to me that I should adopt one or
XX.
Plan of Other of two modes of treatment — by giving either a simple official account of what had been accomplished, without reference to the past ; or an enlarged review of the whole subject, in its historic connections and political bearing. Having regard to the vast interests involved in the maintenance of our Eastern posses- sions, and the permanent nature of the communicatioa which possibly might be established in consequence of the Euphrates Survey, the conclusion to which my mind was brought, after long and anxious deliberation, w^as that, if I attempted the subject at all, it ought to be on the more comprehensive plan.
It was not contemplated that I should receive any pecuniary recompense for these labours ; and if the scale on which I undertook them has been of a magni- tude disproportioned to the time which I could fairly affoixl from other pursuits, the loss has been exclusively my own. They who have read my previous volumes will be able to judge of the nature and extent of the Prriimi- preliminary researches, historical, geographical, ami restarchea. political, on wliich I havc cndcavoured to base the Survey in a manner consistent with the extent aod solidity of the interests involved. But the production even of that part of the work was retarded by a succession of untoward yet unavoidable circum- stances. Pnnting Soon after the printing of the first volume had com- moncog. menced, in 1843, I was ordered on active service in onu red to Cliiiia, as Brigadier commanding the Royal and East India Company's Artillery. When this unavoidable
DELAY OP THE PUBLICATION. 351
tion to the work had terminated on my return chap.
XX
md, after sharing in the expedition against Can- ^ — r^~^
.847, 1 encountered the great disaster of being ^^ilT*
m addition to a considerable sum, of the MSS. ^g^^^^*^
,vo first vohimes, then ready for the printer.*
I three years of unremitting labour had re-
his most serious loss, the printing was resumed. First and
inued till the first and second volumes, as well as voices
s, including a complete Chart of the Euphrates,f p^^^«^^-
;^en to the public.
u producing the work to this extent, I found Failure of
own advances, in addition to the money drawn ^^"^«, ^
' •' complcto
3 Treasury, amounted to a sum, beyond which the work, not, in justice to myself and others, continue to rivate disbursements ; and at the same time I sensible of an increasing indisposition on the ;hose having the disposal of the public funds, to 5 to apply them on such a scale as the prosecu- he remainder of the work would have required, ithstanding very earnest representations by the ented Prince Consort, Sir Eobert Inglis, Baron Represm- dt, and others, who were desirous of seeing the J^,e^°?o*^^ mpleted, the same unwillingness to make the ^^^^^ y outlay continued to exist ; and the work, as *^^- the consideration of my own position in regard
man, who had given a false number at the Paddington Station, ^ with my portmanteau. In addition to £840, it contained the ch I had just brought to London for publication. The police 3eded in facing him.
iginal Chart of the River Euphrates, on a scale of two inches to 3 given by me to the Admiralty — ^where It stiU remains — and i will yet be found useful, whenever that noble river and antry shaU again become the groat highway of intercourse Ingland and India.
352 NARRATIVE OP THE EUPHRATES EXPEDmOS.
CHAP, to it, fell into abeyance until 1858, when, on the inter-
XX.
■-\ ' * vention of Lord Stanley, I was recouped the bulk of my actual expenditure, as it stood when I submitted it to the Treasury in 1854. c*ii«i Called upon again in the past year to resume theXar-
oU^piMe rative of the Expedition, I have not hesitated once more the Naira- ^^ ^^^ ^ j^^l^ cndcavours towards rendering this con- tribution to the public service as complete as my humble abilities enable me to do : and if the work sliall hereafter conduce in any substantial degree to the advancement and security of our East Indian communications, I shall not deem my labours unrewarded, nor my time and other oxjKinditure misapplied.
Siimmft '^'^^ consecutive operations of the Exi)edition w^e
ofniH..ni- inarked by the following dates or rcsting-i)oints :—
u"llio'^'^ The transport of all the materialf, and the floating of two liuphrntt's Jj-qij steamers in a perfect state, so as to put the ExpedilitiD tioiir * in nn>tifn, March 16, 1836.
The ilescent and siu'vey of about 1,200 miles of the River Kiiplirates, completed June 18, 1836.
Kxamination of the Rivers Karun and Bah-a-Mishir, Stp-
temher 1836.
Ascent and survey of the River Tigris to Bagdad, Septem- ber 28, 1836.
First mail taken to Bombay by myself in the *Hugh Lindsay,' December 1, 1836.
Second ascent of the Karun hy Major Esteourt and tlie othei-3, in December 1836.
»Soc(md ascent of the 'Tigris' above Bagdad by Major Est- eourt, January 1837.
Detached Operations.
Survey of the Bay of Scanderoon and coast from thence to Lattakia, completed about May 1836, by Lieutenant Murphy and others.
GENERAL SUMMARY OF OPERATIONS. 353
Grand line of levels from the Bay of Antioch to the River chap. Euphrates, which was completed by Lieutenant Murphy, in ^' May 1836, with the assistance of Lieutenant Cockburn and summary Sir. Thomson* A section of this laborious work is given on o{ opera- Map ^o. 1.
Scientific journey through the Taurus, so as to connect the sea with the river by geographical lines, completed in Feb- ruary 1836 by Colonel Chesney, Lieutenant Murphy, and Mr* Ainsworth.
Continuation of this journey by Lieutenant Lynch and Mr. Ainsworth, who connected Orfah and Haran with the Euphrates below Samsat.
Pendulum and magnetic experiments at Port William, by Major Estcourt and Lieutenant Murphy, completed in March 1836.
Pendulum and magnetic experiments by Major Estcourt udd Lieutenant Murphy at Basrah, completed in August 1836, before the decease of the latter.
The Natural History of the River Euphrates, with a large collection of plants and insects by Doctor and Mrs. Heifer [Germans), who executed this important task, in considera- tion of a free passage down the river.
A line of levels from the River Tigris near Bagdad to the River Euphrates opposite, by Corporal Greenhill, of the Royal Sappers and Miners — made with the double object of determining the distance of level, and also the possibility [>f cutting a navigable canal from the one great river to the other.
The discovery of lignite coal above Dcir, on the Euphrates.
The discovery of a mine of plumbago in the Taurus, by Mr. Ainsworth.
The discovery of extensive coal and iron mines near the Tigris, by Mr. Ainsworth.
A geological section of the whole country from the Medi- terranean Sea to the Euphrates, following the line of levels, bjr Mr. Ainsworth.
A geological examination of Northern Syria, by Mr. Ains- worth.
A geological examination by him of the Taunis and Anti- Paums.
A A
354 NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDmON.
CHAP. A geological examination of the whole conrse of the Ea-
^^' phrates below Sarasat, say 1,400 miles; of the whole courw
of the Tigris to Diyarbekr; of the greater part of the
Karun, the whole Bah-a-AGshir, and the sonthem part of
Persia — viz., from Persepolis to Bushira
The Expedition was finally broken up by Major Estconrt, agreeably to the orders of the President of the Board of Control, at Bagdad, January 25, 1837.
Since the above summary of the results accomplished by the Euphrates Expedition was prepared, on my retura to England in 1837, the question of a steam-communi- cation with India through Turkish Arabia has remained comparatively in abeyance, although the informaticw obtained, with regard to the rapidity of transit and Adrant- Commercial advantages of that line, have been such as E^phmtos* to place its desirability beyond all doubt. Its direct- R^ Soa Hess, and consequent superiority over the present Over- ^*"*'' land Koute to India, are now patent to everybody, and
require no exemplification. Its commercial advantages will be equally apparent to the reader, if he will take the trouble of looking over the following statistics of trade through Arabia in 1855, furnished by Mr. Barker then acting as Vice-Consul at Aleppo, — and given to me when I revisited Syria in 1856, in company with Sir John MacNeill and a staff* of engineers, for the purpose of assisting in a careful re-survey of the Bay of the Orontes, and of the country lying between the Mediterranean and the Upper Euphrates, with a view to a line of railway from the coast to the river passing by Al^po. According to Mr. Barker's statement, it appears that the imports to and through Aleppo, in 1855, amounted
IMPORTS AND EXPOETS OF ALEPPO IN 1855.
355
to about £1,414,059, and the exports to £1,254,130, chap.
. XX
irrespective of an internal trade with Turkey, which in — r-^ 1856 reached £1,079,556. The statistics are as ^Xx^
Total Amount op Value op Goods Ixpobted prom Great Britain ikto Stria is 60 Vessels ik 1855.
. £427,360 1,634 4,715 2,136 6,160 4,080 4,305
. 20,973
471,353 French, Italian, Gennan, Swiss, less in quantity,
but greater in value, about as much . 471,353
Coasting trade from Constantinople, Greece,
Smyrna, &e. about as much .... 471,353
£1,414,059
|
21,368 bales Manufactures |
at £20 |
|
467 bags Pepper and Pimento |
„ ^ |
|
943 barrels Sugar . |
• ») 5 |
|
534 bags Coffee |
. » 4 |
|
123 cases Cochineal . |
. „ 50 |
|
61 „ Indigo |
. „ 80 |
|
1,435 packages Drysalteries |
. „ 3 |
|
6,991 „ not declared |
• » 3 |
Exports op Aleppo in 1855.
120,000 quarters Wheat .
60,000 „ Barley .
26,000 „ Millet .
2|600 tons Flour
6,000 „ Sesame Seed
760 „ Galls . 1,000 „ Cotton 2,000 w Wool .
at £2
u
12 18 65 36
w
if
ff
£240,000 62,600 31,260 30,000 90,000 48,760 36,000 80,000 150,000
In 1865,
60 vessels
fromGh:«at
Britain,
with
£471,353.
French, German, &;c. in 1855, £471,853.
Coasting trade in 1855, £471,353
Exports from Alep- po in 1855.
Allow for sundry articles as above
Internal trade to Constantinople, Smyrna, &c., as
above 485,630
£1,264,130
The prices are the average at Aleppo.
According to Clonsul Kennedy's Eeport to the Foreign Office in 1855, 181,100 tons of goods were sent to and through Aleppo from the coast in that year, and 179,800 tons passed from that city for export, at a cost of cost, for the transport alone, of about £200,000.
A a 2
transport.
356
NABRATIVE OF THE EUPHEATE8 EXPEDITION.
CHAP. XX.
HO
PrM6fil
fitate of cumniuni- catioii viA tho Ku- phmU>s.
The forgoing details give an approximate idea o the commerce existing ten or twelve years ago on th( ItlJ^Sf western side of Turkish Arabia, while the subjoinec LiJ^* Me- account, by Captain Lynch, C.B., of the present state o poriMnia. trade in Lower Mesopotamia, furnishes additiona valuable information : —
* Note on the present State of Commerce on the
Eiiphratee and Tigris.
' We must regard with interest the progress made, in tb countries bordering the Euphrates, since the Expedition re corded in these pages. An unbroken Jine of steam-yessel now conducts the traveller from London to Bagdad, th( ancient seat of Arab empire on the Tigpris, in a period o from five to six weeks. The vessels of the Peninsular anc Oriental Steam Navigation Company from England to Bom bay are connected three times a month, by the steamers o the British India Company, with Basrah, whence the steamer of the Euphrates and Tigris Steam Navigation Corapan; maintain the line to Bagdad, carrying mails, passengeis, an< merchandise.
^The Turkish authorities at Bagdad have two smal steamers on the river, and three others are in course of con struction at Basrah. The Indian Government also maintaii an armed steamer at Bagdad, for the service of the Kesidenc;
' The tel^n^aph to India passes through B^dad, and w have frequently had replies to messages from London on thi following day. No doubt very great improvements may ye be made in tlie mode of working it ; and a line will probablj be continued from Bagdad, through Persia, to Bunder Abbai and the Mekran coast to Kurrachee, thus continuing the land-line all the way from England to India. A future rail* way will probably follow the same route. There is certain!} no land-line to India which offers so many advantages^ whether as regards distance, position, sea and land commimi- cation, climate, and nature of the country.
< The trade between India, England, and the ports of tbe Persian Oulf and the Euphrates, has increased in an extra-
Steam-
vit8<*l8 on tho river.
TelogTAph to India tliruugh liigiUul.
Increase of tnido
COMMEHCE ON THE EUPHRATES AND TIGRIS IN 1868. 357
ordinary degree since the Expedition first drew attention to chap. these countries ; and the exports of wool, cotton, opium, and .^^' _.
grain of every description are greatly increasing, and oflFer a between field of supply almost unlimited. Many of the European ^<i^* "J^ nations are now represented by mercantile firms at Bagdad, ^ ,.^j ' and a bank^ on the English system, has been established bank at there, and is daily increasing its business. Bagdad.
'Since the first Expedition, the rivers have been again Gapabili- examined, with more time for a careful survey ; and although Euphrates the Euphrates — from its mighty torrent in the full season, river and when the snow melts on the Taurus, and its shallow pool- ^ *^* like state in the dry season — is unfitted for the purpose of swift unbroken steam-*navigation, yet for all the require- ments of interfluvial communication and irrigation it is as unrivalled as its valley is rich in all the products which love a rich soil and a glowing sun. We found no difficulty from the Arab tribes, and none is to be anticipated from them, to the project of a railway along the valley. As our knowledge cordial of their customs and our communications with them in- relations creased^ so were our relations more and more cordial ; and we ^ith the €X>iild depend on them for any services in their power to Arabs. render, either as messengers to carry the mails, or to procure and furnish us with such supplies as the country affords.
* Much as the Expedition has awakened the attention of the people on the spot, and increased their means and desire for increased commerce with Europe and India, in a fer greater degree has the attention of the Great Powers of Europe been drawn by it to the Euphrates. No import- Power can hope to hold an exclusive interest on the »»<» ®^ ^^ Euphrates. A mighty stream of over 1200 miles from the river wid* Taurus to the Persian Gulf, running through the richest ^*^^^y valley in the world, with immense plains on either hand, it divides the East from the West. The seat of ancient em- pires, it was never until desolate and strewn with ruins under one sceptre, and must again become the home of the ^ ^a«>pe surplus population of Europe. The Expedition has awakened the nations of Europe, and they will now discover the interest they have in the rehabilitation of the Euphrates, and uniting
* The London and Bagdad Banking Association (limited).
358
NARRATIVE OF THE EUPHRATES EKPEDITIOK.
CHAP. XX.
Indian f(y8t4^m of railwayii.
PostAl rommuni- cHtions with India ill the last centuiy.
Actual
postal
communi-
CHtioD,
and pro»- pect« of itH accele- ration.
probably in a more £dr and cordial support of the Turkyi Empire — ^the only instrument for the purpose — make the val- ley of the Syrian river the path to the rich commerce and resources of the East'
H. BLOSSE LYNCH.
London, July 18, 1868.
This statement seems to tell us, incontestaUy, that but little impetus is required, in the way of improved facilities of transport, to create a great increase rf traffic in that part of the world.
The Indus has been most successfully opened nf by hnes of railway and steam-flotillas, carried out almost entirely by the persevering energy of Mr. W. P. Andrew, Chairman of the Scinde and Piinjaub Eailway Companies ; consequently, but little more is now needed to complete a working line of communica- tion by railway through Mesopotamia, with steamen for the Persian Gulf, which would give the means of rapid intercourse between Great Britain and India, at an estimated cost of about £1,000,000.
Some 50 or 60 years ago a letter was five or six months in reaching India from England ; and even when the improved arrangements of the line through Arabia, as organised by the Marquis Wellesley, existed, the despatches were from 68 to 85 days in reaching Bombay, during the momentous period of the war vritl France.*
Letters now reach India, by the Bed Sea route, in 2i days, or even less ; and at no distant period, letters seni through Brindisi and Turkish Arabia will reach Bomba) in from 12 to 14 days ; while, in case of urgent necessity
♦ Sed pp. 3i9, 330.
MIUTARY IMPORTANCE OF THE EUPHRATES ROUTE. 350
« very little additional time will enable us to transport chap. troops to Central Aaia, ready to take the field.
This is no visionary project. Our Indian Army has campaignH carried out, most successfully, two very distant and Sstan, exceedingly diflScult campaigns — the one, Sir George Pollock's march through the wildest and most difficult passes of Afghanistan, in the face of a powerful enemy ; the other, Sir Robert Napier's safe-conduct of and in
, , Abyssinia.
his troops over the winding and almost impracticable mountain passes to the westward of the Bed Sea. In either case, imder less able commanders, it might have been of vital importance to have had it in our power to supply reinforcements with the least possible delay. By the Euphrates Route alone could this have been effected rapidly in the case of A%hanistan, K«inforeo- where, in addition to the apparently almost insurmount- ^^m mble difficulties offered by the nature of the country, p^^,^ Sir George Pollock had to lead his men against a brave and warlike people, and to enable his troops to regain that prestige whidi had been lost by our previous dis- asters in Cabul. I must be permitted here — although it is somewhat of a digression — to offer my tribute of admiration to the commanders and troops who have fio happily carried out these two most extraordinary expeditions, and which in the latter case has been so signally rewarded by our gracious Queen.
When the first volumes of this work were going through the press (in 1851), the Caucasian tribes were .still free and independent, as well as those lying to the westward of the Caspian Sea. Now the Caucasus is Advances Russian territoiy, and the power of the Czar has towa^*** tfiiread rapidly to the westward. Persia remains ^*^'
i
i
I
I
!
I I
h
360 NABRATIVB OF THE EUPHRATES EXPEDITiOK.
CHAP, pasidve, whilst the armies of Russia have not oi
occupied the distant city of Somarcand, but i
graduaUy drawing nearer and nearer to Herat t
Cabtil.
omr ««ca- If we would HOt scc her troops occupying the rij
coiMoiidA- bank of the Indus, let us Ailly realise the possibility
%MSBk of ovur
omUnd such an even t ; and it will then at once be found t
•
eations. wc posscss ample means for avertmg the danger moi-al effect of the advance of an enemy to the v boundary of om: Indian Empire, in the consolidation i perfection of our overland communications betwi Great Britain and India.
APPENDIX.
CONTENTS.
PAOB
I. Letter from Captain Chesney to Sir Hobert Cbidon, on the Ofer-
knd Roate md Egypt 364
II. General Accounts of the Euphrates Expedition — Casualties of the
Euphrates Expedition 374
III. Journey from the B:iy of the Orontes to Damascus (1835), by the
late Mi^jor-General J. B. B. Estcourt 381
IV. Journey fh)m Suedia to Reschid Pacha's Camp near Diyarbekr
(1835), by the late Magor-Goneral J. B. B. E»toourt . . .407
V. Report of a Tour from Bir to £1-Deir (1836), by Captain Henry
Blosse Lynch, C.B., K.L.S 432
VI. Extracts from a Report of an Excursion in the Arabian Desert
(1836), by the late John William Heifer, MJ). . . .439
VII. Report of the Circumstances relating to the Transport (1836), by
the late M^'or-General J. B. B. Estcourt . . . . , 446
VIII. Report of the Circumstances relating to the Transport (1885-36),
by the late Commander R. F. Cleayeland, R.N. . . . 452
IX. Summary of Journal (1885) by Acting Lieutenant (now Captain)
£. P. Charlewood, R.N. .466
X. Report by the late Mr. (afterwards Captain) James IFitzjames,
RN. (1836) 481
XI. Report of a Joumpy from Bagdad to Constantinople vid Kurdistan
(1837), by William Ainsworth .492
XII. Biographical Records of the Officonj of the Euphrates Expedition 542
364 THE OYERLAXD ROUTE VIA RGYIT.
APPENDIX I.
LETTER PROM CAPTAIN CHESNEY TO SIR ROBERT GORDON, ON THE OVERLAND ROUTE VlA EGYPT.
JalEi, September 2, 1830.
APPX. ^^^* — ' have realised the intention, communicated to yoar L Excellency in my letter from Cairo (dated June 7), of viriting ^ *". Sues, Lake Mensaleh, &c., and also sailing down the Red Sea tionofthi) to Kosseir, from whence I again crossed the Desert to the ^WT^>»n Nile ; endeavouring to ascertain, during these journeys, what impediments and facilities exist with regard to a steam-com- munication by one of those routes to India.
It is with some degree of hesitation that I venture to touch upon a subject so foreign to my profession, and attended with ti«>me difficulties ; but steam-navigation is imdoubtedly lea complicated than that of sailing-vessels, and its eztendon to more distant countries has long interested me : indeed, to long as ten years ago, I made some calculations as to Uie Rtcftm* feasibility of the communication With India through Egypt mtion and the Mediterranean, leaving the mails at Gibraltar, Msltii ]^ ^^ and perhaps Cape Matapan (for Greece) ; and although I did ranfttn, not then bring the subject forward, the consideration of Kgypc <Mr. ^{^^ question naturally prepared my mind for the local exa- mination just completed ; the result of which I shall proceed to give, trusting your Excellency will bear in mind that I am not a nautical man, and therefore have a claim to allowances for any errors which may arise from this circimistance, particularly as I hope they will not be so »<eriou8 as to mislead anyone in considering the grand questioB itself.
The Red Sea offers some serious difficulties to the navigation
THE OVERLAND ROUTE VI X EGYPT. 365
of sailing-vessels : its western side is shallow^ owing to coral APPX. reefs ; and when the wind is not so favourable as to permit
their keeping the Arabian shore on board, they are naturally ^"^^'*^''
exposed to much danger on the Egyptian side. For five Sea; its five
months, befirinnine: from the middle of May, the wind blows months'
' o o j^ periodical
steadily and moderately down the Eed Sea, during which winds,
period vessels must beat up the whole of the way they have Ignorance
to go ; and as the Arab navigators neither know the use of \!^ of
the compass, nor the bearing of the stars, they invariably thia come-to every night ; consequently the voyage to Suez, &c*, would be exceedingly long, if it were undertaken at all in this season of the year, when all navigation m9>y be said to cease ; for if there be not the supposed time for the vessel to reach her destination early in May, she almost invariably waits until the autumn, when southerly winds set in, so as to give a speedy passage, and having a fair wind, also a safe one, through Deep water the deep water on the Arabian side, where there is a space ^^^ sufficiently broad and free from obstructions. side.
It is evident that the foregoing difficulties do not apply to Ad\'antage steam-vessels, which can make a straight course at all times, steamer. and which could ascend the Ked Sea against the moderate winds prevailing there, at the rate of 6 or 7 knots per hour, even when she is most impeded ; for I apprehend that a vio- lent gale of wind is a rare occurrence in that sea, and that the sequel would prove, that a steam-vessel of moderate power can ascend with much rapidity, even at the most unfavourable moments ; so that there remains but one serious difficulty — Coal de- the coals, and this could be overcome by forming depots at formed at Mocha, Aden^ or some other place near the Straits of Babel- Mocha, &c. mandeb, to which they could be transported in many ways : thither by for instance, by Lake Menzaleh, and across the isthmus on ^^ *^® camels to Suez, or up the Nile to Kenn^, and across to Kosseir Koeseir. on camels, at a contracted rate of 8 or 10 piastres (16«. or Expense. 18«.) for 9 or 10 cwt. ; and still cheaper were an establish- ment of camels to be kept for the purpose, as is done by the Pacha, allowing only 4 piastres for each journey to the Arab who feeds, keeps, and conducts the animal.
The transport up the Nile is known to be very moderate ; so Veaaels would the subsequent part be from Kosseir to Mocha, and in ^^j^ ^^ this way the depot could be speedily formed at a moderate Mocha.
366
THE OVERLAND BOUTE VlA EGYPT,
Route to KosMir.
Taittf
froni
KnMeirto
Al«*ZMft-
drift.
The Desert route from Kosseir to Cairo: ol>- jectioiUL
Transit through Egypt.
A riTer- going steamer on the Nile ;
her depth ;
time and distanoa^ &c.
Upwards f >t' 70 houn duwn- Mmrds, 42 or 60 to Rosetta.
Sfl or 00 hours from KoHseir txi Alexan- dria, and therererse n4orll6 hours.
lioute by
expense, unlesB it should prove less expensive to send the coals thither altogether by sea.
The necessary fuel (whether coals, charcoal, oil, or wood) being placed near the Straits of Babel mandfh» the aol question is, how high up the Bed Sea it would be moal desirable the steamer should ascend? Kosseir offers one route : its port if an open one, but perfectly safe, with sufi cient water within 300 yards of the shore, and a Tartar, on i dromedary, can reach Cairo and Alexandria in the oourae a ten days.
Admitting that this is not an extreme case, it is evidesl that it can only apply to despatches, and the officer carryinj them, and that passengers would either take much men time, or choose the easier route of crossing to Kenn^ nk descending the Nile, which would consequently either sepanb the passengers, parcels, &c from the mails and despatchei^ oi involve the delay of the latter, at Alexandria, until the fonna could arrive ; for which reason, if the route by KosBeir mn adopted, the traveller might pass from the shores of the Bed Sea to the Mediterranean in eleven or twelve days— namdy, two days from Kosseir to Kenn^ and nine or ten in desccDd- ing the Nile to Alexandria.
This time, however, might be materially shortened, by the use of a river-going steamer, such as those on the Clyde, some of which only draw about 18 inches water ; and one i good deal deeper, say 2^ or 3 feet, could ascend and detoend the Nile at all times to Kosetta, which is only 6 houn bj the Desert from Alexandria. From Kenn^ to Rosetta the di»' tance is about 380 miles, and a vessel going 8 knots an hm would accomplish this upwards, against the stream of 2^ milef per hour, in about 70 hours, and dovmwarda in 42 or 5C hours, including 8 hours to go from Bosetta to Alexandria; so that the journey from Kosseir to Alexandria would be pe^ formed in 86 or 90 hours, and that from the latter to the former in 114 or 116 hours, with very little fatigue or real difficulty ; and having made contracts for their carriage, and the other necessary arrangements about coals, &c., the ex* pense of the whole would be sufficiently moderate.
The next route that presents itself is by Suez, which port the steamer would reach in about 25 hours more than she
THE OVERLAND ROUTE VlA EGYPT. 367
requires to go to Kosseir ; here there is a safe anchorage and APPX, flhelter within five miles of the town, and she cannot go higher ._ ' ^ until the sand is removed, which chokes the passage up to the town, in which there is a depth of 7 or 8 feet only. Tbe subsequent difficulties in crossing the Isthmus, and em- The Isth- barking, are greater than those attending the port of Alex- ^^' andria, but, were they once overcome, the route of Suez would be still quicker.
Before, however, I enter more into its details, it will be necessary to endeavour to describe the situation of Damietta and the adjacent coast, with the impediments when embark- ing, &c Damietta is on the right bank of the eastern Outline of branch of the Nile, and at about 8 miles from its mouth, L^phT^f where there is a bar of about 150 yards long, having rather Damietia, leBB than 4 feet water when the Nile is at the lowest, and «bout 7^ feet when at the highest, formed by the deposits of the river, which have been allowed to accumulate from time immemorial, without any efforts whatever being made to remove this serious impediment, which obliges all vessels to Its bars. take in and discharge their cargoes outside the river, where they anchor in moderately safe ground, and the goods are transported in * germs' (a sort of lighter), which pass constantly * Oerms.' to and from Damietta over the bar, the rest of the river inside of it being sufficiently deep. In bad weather the vessels run from the mouth of the river to a bay formed by a 5*^,**^
, Tachta-
neck of land projecting NE. of the Nile, and distant (from rass. the bar) about 4 miles; this anchorage — called 'Tachtarass' in Arabic, and * Cambroon ' in Italian — affords sufficient water chorage. for large vessels at between 1^ and 3 miles from the shore, with sufficient space for a small fleet to anchor, and smooth water for the boats to communicate with the shore. The bay is open to the NE., but vessels are considered secure at single anchor; and as no accidents are remembered, or at least spoken of, it may be concluded to be really safe. Tachtarass I^stanco is about 8 miles from Damietta by land, chiefly along Damietta. Lake Menzaleh, from which a part of the anchorage is sepa-* rated by a narrow strip of land, and through which there is a Passage of communication for boats, by the passage of Stomo-Suan, 4 or Suan to 5 feet deep, leading from the bay into the lake. ^® ^^^'
Running ESE. from Tachtarass, is the narrow strip of
368
THE OVERLAXD BOUTE Yll
APPX.
I.
* , — — '
Descrip- tion of Lake Men- MaXeh,
Extent of Lake Men-
Bottom depth.
IilandB. BoAta.
Fifth.
Fisher- men ; towns on the eastern side of the lake.
Tineh, and the French cut, &c.
sandy land separating Lake Menzaleh firom the sea, and through which are the entrances — Stomo-Soan, abont 3 miles from the anchorage ; that of Booca Dibeh, at about 10 or 12 miles ; that of Stomo-G^emileh, at 15 or 16 miles ; and, finally, the ancient one of Tineh (now closed), at 25 or 28 miles from thence.
Lake Menzaleh begins about l^ mile fix>m Damietta, aod is an irregular parallelogram, nearly 43 miles from ESK to WNW., and from 11 to 12 miles broad, NK and SW. from the sea to the land side; the bottom is a mixture of mud and sand, generally covered with reeds, but quite level ; so that the greatest depth of the lake does not vary more than 6 or 8 inches, being rarely much under 4 feet, and seldom mate- rially above it, eoccept where the sea entera.
There are a great number of small grassy uninhabited islands spread over the lake, between which the numeroof fishing-boatfi pass in every direction with the utmost fiudli^; and by placing nets and reed inclosures in certain plaoo; they take sea-fish with a facility and to an extent unknown elsewhere. The boats are very numerous, having an open grating or well to keep some of the fish alive, and of a coO' struction at once broad and sharp underneath, so as to giT< speed with little draught of water, yet carrying a good de^ — some more than 20 tons, but the smaller only 8 or 10 and instead of rowing, they are propelled by poles agaiiul the bottom, when the wind is not favourable for the use o sails.
The fishermen live at the towns on the southern an( eastern borders of the lake — viz., at Menzaleh, which is on tin canal from Mansoura, and one hour distant from the lake; al Matarieh, which is on it ; at Saan, which is two hours distant but connected by means of a canal ; and finally at Tineh, i village constructed by the French at about 200 yards beyoik the eastern extremity of the lake, but still communicatiiij with it by means of a small canal.
Tineh opens towards the sea, and has the advantage oi anchor&ge in good weather a little way from the shore ; and the French made a cut (for their army going against Syria), so ac to permit its passing from the lake to the seacoast opposite Tineh, without l)eing exposed to the fire of our ships. Thifl
THK OVERLAND BOUTB VlA KGYPT. 369
passage is now closed ; but were it reopened, it would offer APPX. the easiest and shortest route to Suez, there being but 2^ ^'
days, or 30 hours, of pilgrim's travelling over the Desert to Tineh to
that place from Tineh, ^^ ^*
The next shortest route is that of Saan^ now most in use Saan zonte
by the Mecca pilgrims from Vamietta. This village is two ?*^ ""^
hours from the lake near Matarieh, to which it is joined by a pilgrimaT small canal, with from 3^ to 4^ feet water, down and up
which the boats pass at all times to fish. A line drawn from DiBtance^
Damietta to Suez would pass over about 35 miles of the t"^*®-
* to SUlCSa
lake to Matarieh, which distance is considered 16 hours' work
for the country boats, when propelled the whole way by
means of poles ; and the remainder of the way from Saan to
Suez is three days, or 36 hours of caravan-time. Therefore
putting out of the question the removal of the sand to open Bemoral
the bar of Damietta, there remains the resource of the Bay of ^ua w'
Tachtarass, where a steamer might await in safety ; and with TaehtmM
one intervening station in the Desert, to give a relief of ani- ^^' *^
mals, the journey from Suez to Saan would be performed in Sacs to
24 or 28 hours, and the subsequent part over the lake, with a 28^m^
small steamer or swift-rowing boat, in 8 or 10 more, going a swift
straight to the western extremity of the lake, and through ^^^^ >° ^ke
the passage of Stomo-Suan to the anchorage of Tachtarass, coiunimi-
the place of embarkation, which would be reached in 56 or ^*^ ^*^
Tachta- 62 hours from the latitude of Kosseir, whilst the route from
the latter to Alexandria by the Nile would consume 86 or 90 hours.
In addition to the consideration of less time, the route of Facility as Suez would also have the advantage as to the facility of trans- ^^^ porting coals. The Arabs of the Isthmus and those of Mount The Arabs Sinai are easily dealt with ; they are content to make the ^^edto journey for 16 piastres; and anything like permanent em- work on ployment would be hailed with joy, and reduce the rate termsr^ to 8 or 10 piastres for each camel carrying from 7 to 10 cwt» A party of those of Mount Sinai followed me some distance, in the hope that I would take them one day's fourney, and they go as far as Cairo in search of employ- c^^ m^y )ieiit ; so that, unless some intrigue should be icsed at Alex- ^^ trans- indria, there can be little doubt that coals might be carried Sfo^ hr icrcMss Lake Menzaleh, and thence to Suez, or even Mocha, at a ^' '^^-
B B
370 THE OYEBLAND BOUTE VlA EGTTT.
APPX. moderate expense; and the consumption on the Red Set >_ / ^ would prove much less than the same distance elsewhere
because, for a considerable portion of the year, there is a fai wind dmvn at one period, and up at the other, which wouli Um of nils make it well worth while to unship the paddles, since tb ■teamer, vcssel could easily make 8 or 9 knots without steam, hanDj during the a nice breeze and smooth water. The Arab junk hired t^ ^^dM, ^. ^^^ ^^ ^ Koeseir (from Suez) made that voyage (of 30( Timi* from or 320 miles) in four short days, or 37 hours of actual sailing &i« to anchoring at night, as they invariably do.
In this view of the question, there remains only one can where a difficulty might arise in the sequel — namely, if tbi If Tachta- roadstead of Tachtarass should prove less safe than I hifB »" »"». ventured to represent it ; but I believe it will be found mi- ciently good to be adopted, unless that of Alexandria beulti- two n- mately preferred : and there are, besides, two other resonictt ■omvet: ^yy the route of Suez, one or both of which would be availahK
and become still more advantageous as to tima lit, re- The first is the removal of the bar at Damietta, bj09
B^etu ™®*"^8 ^ diflScult task with machinery, and in which expeue bar; and the merchants would readily join.
2nd, open- The second is the improvement of the Boccaz of Stooo- o* ^u^ Gemileh, also opening that of Tineh, so as to commmiieit* &c. ' with Suez by the latter place, thus avoiding Damifltti
altogether.
Itadeiicrip- Stomo-Gemileh is at times resorted to bv small Sjri» **°* vessels for shelter in bad weather ; it opens about NNE^ i"
is nearly half a mile long, and 50 yards wide. The W; Depth of depth of water I found exceeded eleven feet; but asl^j beset by the Arabs during my observations, and met »■• annoyance, I cannot be quite positive that this is the ta^l depth, though I believe it to be so, and that at all seasoBi'j the year — for there is no current to form a deposit ha^«*'j evident from the Boccaz having remained so long opea 1>* land is low and sandy on each side of the entrance, and v Theiurf. surf moderate, owing to the opening inclining toward* *■•' Syrian coast. Once inside of the Boccaz, the lake is ©«*• six feet deep, and farther inwards its depth decreases to »b<i^ four feet.
I feel convinced, from the nature of the soil, that"*
THE OVERLAND EOUTE VlA EGYPT. 371
opening would be easily enlarged by machinery, so as to APPX. admit a steamer with more facility, and that^ once enlarged, ^'
it would long remain so: in addition to this labour, how- Once open- ever, it would be desirable to form a kind of small basin, remain so. immediately inside of the entrance, merely by driving a Basin of slight row of piles, to keep out the deposits of the lake ; and f**^v- thus enable the vessel to remain afloat, and ready for sea, at a row of all times. P^-
Stomo-Cremileh would have two ways of communicating Commimi- with Tineh — the one inside of the lake, the other outside by ^^^'^ ^
^ tween
aea in calm weather — and either to be accomplished in less Stomo- than three hours, with a fast boat ; so that from Suez to the ^?^?^t
t 11.1 *• "*^ Tineh.
steamer, or the reverse, would require but 27 or 30 hours So^tothe at the outride. ^^^
In the other opening of Dibeh (8 or 9 miles westward), honn. which has a castle, erected by the French, for its defence, ^?^ ^ I found but 5 and 6 feet water, throughout nearly a mile in length, and 100 yards in breadth ; it is capable of much improvement, but at a far greater expense than the other ; and when finished, it woidd be more distant from Suez.
I have some reason to believe that the Pacha, whilst he The may avowedly consent, and promise assistance, would aecreUy ^*ch»'* make difficulties, and use intrigues, to counteract communi- wishes as cation through his territories ; as it is natural he should not ^ ^^^^'^f dedre to make Egypt the channel of such an important in- tercourse as must draw the attention of Europe to that part of the world. But were he heartily to sanction and second this project, the intercourse might be immediately opened througli Tachtarass, with a swift boat on the lake, going thither from Saan, through the passage of Stomo-Suan, and Temponzy ■ending coals in this way to Suez ; until, as a more perma- *""p" nent arrangement, either the bar of Damietta be removed, or permanent the passage of Stomo-G-emileh and Tineh be opened more **"®*' effectually in order to cross the Desert to Suez from the latter point.
By the route of the Nile and Kosseir, the Pacha could The route hardly manage to create any serious difficulties. That river is ^^ *^* ^^® the beaten highway for all transport in Egypt, and the ex- and little * pense of boats, and all elsef, is not only moderate, but so well d*^'^!^* understood, that no difficulties could be made which would
BB 2
372
THE OVEBLAND ROUTE VlA EGYPT.
APPX. I.
* 1 "
Small steamer on the Nile.
Bep^of fbel, &c.
Charcoal.
Ababdi Arabs easily dealt with.
Opening through the Isth- mus of Suez.
Lerel of the Red Sea and Mediter- ranean.
not have a general application to the commerce of t1 country itself. Therefore, to put steam in operation hy t Nile, nothing more seems to be requisite than the coDstrv tion of a small vessel, adapted to a river ; by having a gc deal of width of beam, and little depth, manned with eij or ten men, to navigate her between Rosetta and Kenne, Coptos ; where a depot of fuel would be formed, by tra sportiug it from the sea thither in the common Nile-bo (known to all the world to be sufficiently cheap), unles should seem preferable to purchase charcoal, at the i of 8 or 12 piastres for a common sackful, being market-price of this article in Kosseir, brought thither fi a distanoe of several leagues, by the Ababdi Arabs; i whom alone there would be the possibility of any intrij so as to produce annoyance, in passing the Desert; anc would be much easier to keep them quiet by means of a li money, and constant employment, than for the Pacha to i them up : they are, besides, not at all difficult to deal w and far from formidable, in disposition, towards others.
Any of these routes, however, which may be adopted, y probably only pave the way to the realisation of the gn idea, so long indulged in England and other parts of Eun of connecting the Mediterranean with the Red Sea. A 11 time will probably remove the ill-founded apprehension of creasing the height of the former by the influx of the latl for whatever natural causes can be supposed to exist lik to maintain the Red Sea at a higher level, can hardly fail influence equally the Mediterranean at the distance of li) more than 60 miles. The land, it is true, shelves gradiu from the Red Sea to the western shore of the Isthmus, i^ mean diflTerence of 18 feet, according to the French en neers. But it is very questionable whether the sea itf is really higher, communicating, as it does already, with t Mediterranean, round Africa ; but even if it could prove » an additional inlet will no more increase the height of 1 latter sea, than do the unceasing, and infinitely viore vo minous ones, pouring in from the Atlantic on one side, a Black Sea on the other ; for the siu*plus is, and equally woi
* It 18 takpn for grant-ed that there is no such thing as a lovol, as legi the Boa, which takes the same cunre as the earth itself.
THE OVERLAND ROUTE Vll EGYPT. 373
l)e, di5;po6ed of by evaporation, when seeniingly greater, be- APPX. csuse the influx must be reflated by the quantity of water ««- — r — '
exhaled ; and, I apprehend, can neither be more nor less, Communi- whether supplied through one or »ix inlets ; on which prin- ^^^ ^he ciple the Mediterranean (when it shall communicate) would Meditep- as readily give to, as receive from, the Eed Sea, were not the 2^^^^° tenaperature of the latter, and its exhalation, lessened by the cool north winds prevailing during the heat of the year ; for which reason, only a moderate current may be expected to run into the Mediterranean ; and it is, in fact, rather to be feared that such an inlet would not give a sufficient body of water to open a noble passage for ships of moderate burthen, than that any prejudicial increase should be the consequence to the shores of the Mediterranean.
As to the executive part, these is but one opinion. There No natural are no serious natural difficulties ; not a single mountain in- ^*^e w^ay tervenes, scarcely what deserves to be called a hillock ; and in a country where labour can be had without limit, and at a rate infinitely below that of any other part of the world, the expense would be a moderate one for a single nation, and scarcely worth dividing between the great kingdoms of Europe, who would be all benefited by the measure.
Were the Pacha and Sultan to consent heartily, the former Employ- could employ 500,000 Arabs on this work, as he did on the Arabs^on Mahmoudieh Canal ; feeding them out of his stores, so as to this work. put nearly the whole of the contracted sum into his pocket. Mehemet AH is fond of speculations, and this would be a grand and beneficial one for the world, as well as a paying one for his co£fers.
I have the honour to be, Your Excellency's most obedient humble servant^
F. R. CHESNEY, Captain R.A,
To His EzceUency tho Right Hon. Sir Robert Gordon, G.C.B. and G.C.H., &c., &c., &c. — Constantinople.
I
374
GENERAL ACCOUNTS OF THE EXTEDITIOK.
; I
APPX.
IL
■*— — I '
Expend!- tnreduring the Eu- phrates £zpedition (pp. 70 and 71 of Par- liamentary Pftpen).
APPENDIX n, GENERAL ACCOUNTS OF THE EXPEDITION.
The following Statement of Expenditure during Euphrates Expedition (from 1834 to 1838), is gi from the Papers submitted to both Houses of Pai ment, and ordered to be printed February 22, 1838
Abstract Statement of the Expenses of the EupmtATES Exr DiTiON, under the Command of Colonel F. R« Chesnet, R Jl
ITEMS.
Cost of the large iron steamer caUed ' Euphrates,' of 108 feet length, 19 feet beam, with two engines of 25-hor8e power each, including bed- ding, furniture, crockery, cooking utensils, &c.
Cost of the smaller iron steamer called ' Tigris,* of 68 feet length, 15 feet beam, with two engines of 10-horse power each, including bedding, fur- niture, crockery, cooking utensils, &c
Additional ship and other stores provided at Liverpool : 187 tons of coal, 400 sacks for ditto, spare iron, plank, canvas, blocks, and tackle, cordage, and sundry shipping expenses, includ- ing boat-hire, porterage, and steamer towing out of docks, &c. ....
Stores supplied by the Ordnance, consisting of six 9-pounder carronades (iron), and one brass 1 -pounder gun, with their carriages, complete; twelve 1 -pounder brass swivel guns, eight wall- pieces, 60 muskets and bayonets, 16 rifles and bayonets, 40 carbines, 100 pistols, 80 swords (light cavalry), 60 cutlasses, 6- and 8-poimder Congreve and 1^- pounder Whale rockets, with double set of tubes to each nature ; signal rockets; spherical and tin case shot; a large supply of ammunition ; six in&ntry cylindrical pontoons; three marquees, ten bell and two observatory tents; mining, armourers*, smiths*, and carpenters* tools ; four platform and one pontoon waggon; harness for horses; diving-
Carried forward
AmoQiiti
£ s.
6,093 15
2,040 0
821 12
£8,955 7
GENERAL ACCOUNTS OF THE EXPEDmON.
375
Abstract Statement of Expenses — continued.
APPX,
n.
ITEMS.
Brought forward . bell, with air-pump; buoys, mooring-chauis, and numerous other stores; also expense of instructing miners at Chatham An assortment of goods from Sheffield and Man- chester, for presents to the Arabs, consisting of ib wling-pieces, double and single pistols, swords, flbut knives, table knives and forks, spoons, finger and ear rings, with an assortment of soft goods from Glasgow .... Payments through the Ordnance for instruments,
and the repair of others returned Cost of provisions from His Majesty's stores at Cork Ditto ditto and stores from ditto at Malta Cost of provisions, &c., from the Hon. East India Company, Bombay .... Fresh provisions at Cork for present use . Ditto ditto at Malta for ditto Freight of the ship ' George Canning,' to convey the Expedition, with steamers and stores, to the Syrian coast ..... Cost of coals conveyed to the Persian Gulf by the
Hon. East India Company Expense of transporting the steamers and stores from the Mediterranean Sea to the River Eu- phrates— viz., 840 camels and 160 mules
Payments by Major Estcourt on this account Lieut. Lynch, Indian Navy, Lieut. CleaveJand, R.N. Mr. H. Eden, R.N. Mr. Charlewood, R.N. Mr. Fitzjames, R.N. Lieut. H. F. Murphy, R.E. Mr. A. Hector Mr. W, Ainsworth . Lieut. R. B. Lynch . Mr. C. Rassam (interpreter) Mr. W. ElHot „
Mr. Seyd Ali „
Passages of ten workmen returning to Liverpool, with freight and insurance of several cases con- taining papers and fossils Pajrments to nine officers, sixteen artillerymen, four sappers and miners, thirty seamen, and
Carried forward .
»
»
Amounts.
£ 8. 8,955 7
2,128 4 7J
8^ Eaphratea Expendi- ture oon- tinned (pp. 70 and 71 of Pallia* mentaij Pftpen).
2,200 0 0
1,050 10 5
143 6 4
751 8 8
861 7 1
88 19 2
93 19 5|
931 14 6 829 8 4
998 5 504 15 192 7 634 14 265 17 534 16 270 14 1
15 5 11 168 15 0^
61 18 1:
65 19 9j 410 8 Oi
46 1 10[ 5 16 a
192 10 2i
Le21,347 7 Oi
376
GENERAL ACCOUNTS OF THE EXPEDITIOK.
APPX. II.
AssraACT Statement of Exfenses— con^tnu^J.
EnphfiiM Expendi- tim con- tiniifd (pp. 70 and 71 ofPariia-
BMDtaiT
Pftpcn).
I
I
ITEBCa
Brought forward . Beyen Malteae, from the 24th September 1834, the date of the sappers commencing woik at Liverpool, and the 18th Maj 1887, the return to England of the Expedition .
Pay to two engineers, two carpenters, and seven boilermakers, civil workmen t^en from Liverpool
Expense incurred in the repair of roads in Syria, with Lieut. Lynch's journey from England to forward the same ....
Erection of houses, worksliops, slips for vessels at Port William, with deep ditch to enclose the whole; superintended and paid by Lieut. Cockbum
Surveying and carrying a line of levels from the Mediterranean Sea to the River Euphrates; finished by Mr. W. T. Thomson
Conveyance of the Indian mail to England afler the accident to the 'Euphrates* engine, with Seyd Ali*s losses {£1^) on that occasion
Gratuities granted to soldiers and seamen . „ „ civil workmen
Amount of general supplies of provisions and stores, from May 1825 to Sept 1836, by Mr. Rilby, at Aleppo, including commission at 2 per cent.
To Mr. Laird at Liverpool, commission, at 5 per cent., on payments made by him to workmen and others
To Messrs. Hunter and Ross at Malta, for sup- plies and payments made to the fiuxiilies of Maltese employed on the Expedition •
Expense in boat-hire, conveying coals, and other expenses in forming depots of fuel on the River Euphrates ....
Spare stores and engineers* tools furnished by Mr. Fawcett ; also repair of ' Euphrates* engine
Colonel Chesney^s travelling and other expenses to Liverpool and back to London, superintending the preparations of the Expedition
An anchor supplied by the Master of the ' George the Fourth * for the ' Euj^rates ' steamer
Compensation to officers and men for losses in the 'Tigris * steamer, as per annexed Account .
Current expenses of the party for provisions, purchase and keep of horses and bollocks ; hire of native smiths, carpenters, masons, and la- Carried forward
Amoonto.
£ 8. d 21,347 7 C
4,020 17 9 2,269 19 11
878 1 ;
196 1 1
157 4 :
154 4 333 0 140 0
2,054 13 131 14
875 18
|
575 14 |
|
191 7 1 |
|
218 15 |
|
8 17 |
|
2^81 9 |
£35,280 1
GENBBAL ACCOUNTS OF TUK EXPEDITION.
877
Abstract Statemekt of Exfzsses— continued.
ITEMS.
Brought forward ^ bourers; with purchases of timber^ charcoal| iron, &c. ; after deducting 396/. lis, bd. for the sale of goods, passage-money received, <&c.
Deduct the value of the steamers, arms, am- mimition, instruments, and stores turned over to the Hon. East India Company .
Actual expense of the Expedition . £
Amounts.
£ a. d. 35,280 1 9^
4,718 1 8
39,998 3 0^ 10,360 12 9
Euphrates Ezpeudi* ture con- tinued (pp. 70 and 71 ofParlia- mentaiy Papers).
29,637 10 3^
February 5, 1838.
F. R. CHESNEY.
Ldditional Expenditure for Payments made to Individuals for Losses in 'Tigris,* and Travelling Expenses to England after that Event.
ITEMS.
k>lonel F. R. Chesney. (No return.)
."•o Lieut. H. B. Lynch, I.N., for losses in 'Tigris'
„ travelling expenses, &c., paid by Treasury
Lieut R. B. Lynch, passage-money retmned
ToDr. C.F. Staunton, R.A., for losses £130 0 0
„ additional travelling expenses 30 0 0
„ six months' additional pay 68 12 6
„ travelling expenses home from Bagdad
[^o Mr. A. A. Staunton, for losses £130 0 0
„ additional travelling expenses 30 0 0
six months* additional pay . 68 12 6
»»
„ travelling expenses home from Bagdad 7o Lieut Eden, R.N., for losses . £ 80 0 additional travelling expenses 20 0
99
two months' additional pay
8 6
0 0 8
(N.B. — £60 travelling money included in
Lieut Lynch's £329 I3tf. lid.)
?o Mr. W. T. Thomson, for losses £ 100 0 0
„ additional travelling money 20 0 0
„ two months' additional pay 12 0 0
Carried forward
Amounts.
£ s. d.
130 0 0
329 13 11
50 0 0
Additional Expendi- ture for the officer! and men (fiponi p.72ofPar« uamentazy Papers).
228 12 60 0
6 0
228 12 60 0
6 0
108 6 8
132 0 0 £1,327 6 7
378
GENERAL ACXX)UNTS OF THE EXPEDITION.
APPX. IL
Additional Expenditure for Payments, S^c-^ eonlinued.
ITEMS.
AdditioDil Ezpendi- tune for the oAeenand men (from p.72ofPu>- limmenUxy Pftpen).
Brought forward •• To Mr. W. T. Thomson, advanced at Anna for
traYelliag expenses To Mr. A. Hector, for losses £ 300 0 0
as a gratuity . 100 0 0
f)
To £. Lowrie, for losses . D. Suckau, „
W. Benson, „ . . .
To motherof Eussof Sader £30 Haaran, a native . 2
Through
the Treasury.
Antonio, Ualil, „
Mohammed, „ Everdice, Chacoa,
)i
>•
w
2 2 2 2 2
0 10 10 10 10 10 10
0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Mr. Wcrry, Consul of Aleppo, is to draw on the Treasury to cover these sums. £ a. d.
To the relatives of Mr. Strathers, engineer 39 8 0
Thomas Booth, seaman 4 10 0 Benjamin Gibson, „ 4 10 0 George Liddel, „ 4 10 0 Thomas Batty, „ 4 10 0 John Hunter, „ 4 10 0
n
tf
•J
Sergeant Clark, R.A. 20 0 0 Gunner R. Turner, K. A. 8 8 0 Gunner Jas. Hay, K.A. 8 0 0
Gunner James Moore, R.A Gunner Thomas Jones, R.A. Private A. McDonald, R.S. & M. To Corporal Benjamin Fuiher, R.S. & M. Gunner Willuun Grosling, R.A. Giacomo, seaman .... Mr. Hector*s expenses in recovering property from the*Tigris' . . . . •.
Expense of party living, &c. whilst detached on this service .....
Expenditure in consequence of the loss of the 1 * Tigrifl^* included in the general account . /
AmoantB.
£ f. I 1,327 5 7
60 0 0
400 0 0
11 9 4
4 11 0
8 11 2
45 0 0
Gl 18 0
86 9
10 9
11 9 3
8 0
0 0
0 0
0 0
5 0
5 I
0 0
183 2 H 41 13 1\
2,231 9 3
September 1837.
F. R. CHESNEY.
CASUALTIES OP THE EUPHRATES BXPEDITIOK.
|
,^ |
kâ„¢ |
bâ„¢^. |
|
|
CotoDel,RA. . |
F. B. Chomey |
30tMng.lB34 |
Embarked oo board thp â– Hogh LiiidsBy' at Basrah for Bom- bay,14lb Not. 1836 |
|
H. B. Ljnci . |
3idNov.lS34 |
Left EipedilJon at Anna for England, |
|
|
29th May. IB36. |
|||
|
Mjflor, 43dL.t . |
J. B. B.Eetjourt |
26th Not 1884 |
|
|
Lieuteiuuit, R. N. |
R. F. CWtoIbdcI |
l»t Jhd. 183S |
|
|
H. T. Murphy |
26th Not 1B34 |
Died at Bonrah, 9th Angnat, 1838. |
|
|
H>ta,B.IT. |
Hemy Eden . |
leth Dec. 183-1 |
Left Eipediuoa at Anna foe England, |
|
authMay, I83B. |
|||
|
BobertCockburn |
Ist Jkh. 1S3S |
Drowned in ■Tigri».' '21at May. 1836. |
|
|
M«W. B. N. |
a6tliOrt.l83* |
||
|
Ditto |
J. Bt^'amw . |
Ult Expedition 30th October, 1836, in chawe of the In- dian Mails. |
|
|
AML-SuigsonB^ |
Q F. 3ta<inioa |
Ut Jan, 1B35 |
|
|
Mr. . . . |
A. A. 8t«mit«a |
13thNoTl83i |
L»ft tbe Expedition |
|
at HilkhforEog- |
|||
|
Und. lltb June. |
|||
|
1836. |
|||
|
Mr. . . . |
W. AimwoTth |
26t]lKoTlB34 |
|
|
Mr. . . . |
W. T. Thomww |
let OcL 1834 |
Left the Eipedilaon at Anna for Eng- Und. aSth May, 1836. |
|
Mr. . . . |
A. Hector |
3Tth Jon. 1835 |
Left at Bagdad in charge of the â– Eu- phratea' rteamor. |
|
C.Rtmm |
At Malta, 20th Mat. I83S. |
||
|
Ditto . . |
J. Bell . . |
Ditto . |
Left « Aleppo. |
|
Dittfl . . |
SejdAU . . |
Sent from Bagdad by the pKh». |
|
|
Ditto |
EnuofSadel . |
Drowned in ' Tigrio," JOth May. 1838. |
|
|
Ditto . . |
WiUiam EUiot |
At BIr. 20t}i |
DiBchats«l >t Anna, |
|
Sept. 18SS. |
20th May. 1836. |
(Signed) September 1637.
tionatli-
(b«np.M of Pallia-.
J. B. BUCKNALL ESTCOURT,
Major 43rd Light Infantry,
â– ominand of the Euphrates Expedition.
380
CASUALTIES OF THE KUPHBATBS EZFBDmOH.
|
APra. |
1 i |
ieqii»l to luTiog |
RadofiU™ b>- Datb. Dl«hui..B |
|||||||||||||
|
IMonior the Man |
, |
J |
t i |
I 6 ad |
1 |
1 |
j |
3 1 |
||||||||
|
«rtlM EophrmtM •howingtU *e. rabM- Feb.l,lSa& tioaatLi- Tnpcnl |
1 1 i |
i J |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
! |
|||||||||
|
Rujal AitiUwy: Non-tommw- Biooed OAcm Boj»lS«gponiMid ■ioDcd Ofien* FriTUM. . . S<«D>eii. . . . ffiril ArtJfloM.: |
3 13 |
1 |
I |
- |
= |
10 |
1 i Z( i |
V i |
1 |
\ |
t |
|||||
|
^i |
||||||||||||||||
|
a |
1 B 1 |
|||||||||||||||
|
16 3 2 7 |
3 |
6 |
i |
2 |
1 3 a 6 |
3 |
8 |
3 |
11 |
1 |
n 1 |
|||||
|
1 |
- |
- |
- |
- |
||||||||||||
|
ts |
''r |
2 |
3 |
10 |
27 |
1113 |
11 |
3 |
8 |
2 |
"\'r |
»; |
(Signed) J. B. BUCKNALL BSTCOUKT,
Major 48nl Ugfat Infiudiy.
L
JOJOB-OSNESAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNET. 381
APPENDIX III.
JOURNEY FROM THE BAY OF THE ORONTES TO
DAMASCUS (1885).
BY THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOURT.
April 3. — This day we reached the Bay of the Orontes. The APPX •Columbine,' brig-of-war, led the way, followed by the trans-
port * Greorge Canning.' It was a fine sight, and full of inte- Arrind on rest^ The scenery was beautiful and wild : the pointed moun- of Syria. tains of Grebel Acra on our right, rising abruptly from the bay ; BcautiM a range of mountains, extending along the line of the coast, to '^^^' the west, stretches inland to the east, overlooks Antioch, and is lost in the plain beyond. Gebel Mousa was on our left, forming the northern point of the bay : the mountains, of which it is the principal, fall back to the chain of Benglam. The Valley of Suedia,*in which is the mouth of the Orontes, Valley of is hemmed in by these two mountainous ranges, and is thus ^«^- cut ofif from the Plain of Antioch.
The Bay of the Orontes has been so little frequented by Bay of the ships that there were no instructions to guide us : the water was ^^^^^^ extremely deep, the lead indicated no soundings, yet we were already near the shore. We stood close under Gebel Acra, but could not find a satisfactory berth; therefore, tacking about, we determined to try the other side, under Grebel Mousa, off the old port of Seleucia. The uncertainty of where to cast our anchor, the beautiful wild scenery which surrounded us, and the sight of the shore before us, where we were to land and begin our labours — all combined to make this a moment full of interest. Alarmed at our approach, two small vessels, that were at anchor, immediately got under weigh ; one put to sea, and the other ran into the river. A flock of Flamin- flamingoes, some forty in number, scared from their tranquil- ^^^' lity, rose, displaying their beautiful plumage, and skimmed across the bay to the other side. We dropped our anchor for Come to the night off the port of Seleucia, in 14 fathoms, and *»*°«^»or-
382
MAJOK-OE?
estcourt's first jotjktet.
Nmtirea bring p>t>- Tuioas.
TheyaU chMtif they can.
Condition of the natiret on* der the Tnrki.
Breaker! on the bar of the Orontes.
Valley of Saedia, ex- tent of.
Its soil and pro- ductions.
gave three cheers from both ships : our berth was not shel- tered, but it had become too late to search for a better. Colonel Chesney and a party tried to land, but before we reached the shore it was dark. We could hear the waves breaking on the beach, and just see their white heads close before us, but could not find a place for landing : we there- fore rowed back to the ships, to wait for day.
April 4. — In the morning two natives were brought off to us by one of our boats, which had landed. The object of their visit w<is to offer us assistance in anything we migbt want, and we accordingly employed them in getting ns pro- visions. During the time that we remained at Suedia, one of them, who was the chief man of the neighbourhood, pro?ed useAil to us, but cheated us with national avidity. Thej were both Christians (Greeks), who are much despised by the Turks, and subjected to continual indignities and exactions. Such oppression has not f&iled to degrade their moral condi- tion ; they are cunning and rapacious.
After the visit of the strangers was over, we took them ashore. It was not easy to land, for on the bar at the moutb of the Orontes, the waves were breaking, which alarmed them very much. Our after-experience proved the entrance to the river to be very uncertain and dangerous. With a wind blowing into the bay, the sea breaks upon the bar and upon the whole shore, so as to render it impossible, at times, to approach with safety.
The Valley of Suedia may be about five miles along the sea- line, and runs back about four miles ; right and left, as has been described, are the mountains connected with (rebel Mousa to the north, and Gebel Acra* to the south. The Orontes, issuing through a narrow pass, flows by a very winding course along the southern side. The soil is rich and well cultivated ; it produces com of every sort, and is thickly planted with mulberry-trees for the silkworms, which are reared in great numbers. The grapes, too, are very fine. Mr. Barker, formerly Consul-General for Great Britain in Egypt, has a house and large property here, to which he retires from Aleppo during the severe heats of summer. The village of
* Acra means bald ; the top of the mountain ia pointed, and loolu quite bald.
IfAJOB-GENEBAL ESTCOURT'S FIBST JOUBNET. 383
Suedia is scattered upon the side of the hills at the farther APPX. end of the valley : the houses are mostly of mud ; the roofs ^ . - are slightly sloping; they have projecting eaves, and are Village of rather picturesque. The inhabitants are all Christians. " ^
Undjer Gebel Mousa, just at the extremity of the bay, towards the north side, are the remains of the ancient city of Seleucia : Ancient there are still some walls in existence ; bricks and pottery are «tv of scattered about, and in the face of the rock there are many tombs hollowed after the manner of those described at Petra. xombs. The old port is still quite distinct, and might be again used nr. , . at no very great expense : it consisted of a large basin situated port. dose under the rock, having an entrance through gates from the sea ; the entrance is filled up, but the piers for the gates remain, also part of the mole, and the wall round the basin ; water still runs in and out of it through the sluice-drain ; the bottom is muddy, and overgrown with reeds and long flags. Just above — ^but for what purpose has never yet been, I think, satisfactorily explained — is a long excavation through the hill ; Hollow it communicates with a little hollow valley beyond, and either ^*y- brought water to form a constant outward current, that the entrance to the port might be kept clear, or simply was a communication from one part of the town to the other, to avoid passing over the steep and high hill above. Look- ing round, you see the Valley of Suedia, a quiet and retired '^Jg^!^*^ space, open to the refreshing breezes from the sea, and shut in from all the world besides — rich in its own productions, cultivated as well as wild, and highly favoured by its healthy climate.
Our first object was to explore the Orontes : its appear- Explora- ance at the mouth was not favourable to navigation : the bar j^y^^ seemed a serious impediment, yet not at all times, for we Oroutes. found a vessel of from 20 to 30 tons lying within ; it was that which had run in through fear of us. We afterwards remarked that the bar is loos^ and shifting, nor did it seem Bar at the that there would be much diflBculty in constructing a pier, ^g^riveif which should carry the waters of the river into the sea, so as Project fop to keep the entrance deep. The current runs at the rate of Y^P^ng it 3^ knots an hour. The course, after the river comes into the plain, is exceedingly tortuous : just above, at the pass of Course of the mountains, it rushes with violence over a rocky bcKl, and oiontcs.
884
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT's FIRCT JOURITET.
APPX.
III.
N— — . '
Eanminft- tion of the road to Antioch and on-
Tvsuph
8aWi
home.
RsTeDOus fleu.
Kara-Chai riren.
Antiuch.
The an- cient walls.
Oeoif*e Pibbi.
could never there be navigated except by constmcting locb to raise the level.
April 5. — ^To-day LieutcDant Murphy, Dr. Staunton, and myself were sent by Colonel Chesney to Antioch to examine the country over which our road was to pass, and the bridges of Antioch and Djezzer Hadid ; but the heavy rains of the morning and night had swelled the rivers into violent torrents, and obliged us to seek shelter in the house of Yusuph Saba, our visitor on board the ship. This was our first specimen of a house in the country : we were received with great hospitality, and shown into a room furnished round the walls with cushions to lean against and mattrasses to sit upon : a fire of charooil was brought in a large metal chafing-dish — also pipes, sherbet, and a good supper. After all this luxury, however, came a night of torment, for we were not yet hardened to the attacb of the ravenous fleas, which seemed to have a greedy thint for European blood. Next morning we set forward again: part of the road was stony, hilly, and bad ; in fEict, it was at best but a mere horse-track. We crossed the two Kara-Cbai rivers, which dwindle into streams in dry weather, but swell again into torrents in a single night of rain. They come down from the mountains of Beilan, and run into the Orontes.
After a ride of about four hours we approached Antioch : it looked exceedingly beautiful — its situation, its minarehs, the purple rocky mountains above it, and all the country round. It is placed on the left bank of the Orontes, which runs rapidly past it, turning mills and large irrigating wheels as it flows : the town occupies all the space, to the foot of the heights behind : the ancient walls are not only in existence, but in excellent condition, though Ibrahim Pacha, in order to furnish materials for an extensive barrack, was, with relent- less barbarity, in full operation of blowing them up : they are of hewn stone, and built with great exactness, having square towers at regular distances. Leaving the river on one side, they run back to the top of the mountain, along the ridge of it, and again descend to the river's bank, enclosing an oblong of about two miles, part of which is occupied by the town, and part by gardens.
Over the river is a stone bridge with a gatehouse; by it we entered the town preceded by George Dibbs, a bospi-
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNEY. 385
table old man, well known to every European traveller who APPX. has passed through Antioch. Though not Consul, he has . _ ^J^' _ . acted the part of Government agent, has been styled Consul, and is proud to be considered the person of reference for all Character Europeans : in that capacity he has rendered kind and valuable jJjS^'^^ «ervice to many by receiving them into his house, and helping them on their journey. We knew nothing of George Dibbs; but our guides, the owners of our horses, sent one of their party forward to acquaint him, according to custom, of the approach of Europeans; in consequence, notice was soon brought that he would come out to meet us, and requesting that we should wait outside the town. But any parade about our entrance into Antioch seemed quite out of place : we were mounted on little thin starved ponies, rough and shaggy, with our poor packsaddles, rope-halters, and loops of rope for stirrups, all liorsesand in the worst condition : they had answered our purpose to equipment. bring us from Suedia to Antioch, but it was too absurd to make a parade of our arrival in such sorry style.
George Dibbs soon met us, though we did not wait for Reception him ; he was a great fat man on a white horse, folded in loose *''^**<^'*- clothes, and looking exceedingly like an old woman. With him came his dragoman, having on his head the orthodox high fur cap; also Monsieur Dalgon, an old militaire of Napoleon, who had entered the service of the Pacha of Egypt, like many others, after the war, as instructor to one of the regiments.. Preceded by these, who rode singly in regular order, we were conducted to George Dibbs's house, and there ArnVe at introduced to the divan by a young Pole, dressed in the ^^^ Egyptian costume, who turned out to be an emigri from the land of his fathers, and of those unhappy people whom Eng- lishmen often meet to remind them of the cruelty of Russia and the broken faith of their own Government. He was a gentleman of excellent address and attainments, and became afterwards a friend and companion of us all.
The hospitality and importance of George Dibbs, as weU as gj^ hosDi- the consideration to his guests, required tliat nothing should t^litj. be wanting in sherbet, pipes, coffee, and so forth, nor that they should be served in any other than the most approved fashion. The ceremonies attending these matters are far from being unimportant to a Turk, nor are they by any
c c
386
MAJOK-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S PIR&T JOURNEY.
APPX. III.
Tlie Pacha
withdraws
his
promised
assistance.
Intrigues of other Powers.
Deceit of Eastern Govern- ments.
Orders to the Go- vernor of Antioch.
means disagreable to a European. Conversation was carried on in bad Italian, or through the Pole in French. We spoke of course of the Expedition, and expected to find that, as the Pacha (Mehemet Ali) had engaged to the British Government to lend us every assistance, all would be prepared to lool favourably on us, and feel interested in our progress ; but U our surprise we learnt from George Dibbs that the promiM given by the Pacha had been withdrawn.
His engagement was to assist the Expedition by all th( means in his power; it had been entered into by forma diplomatic communications from the British Govemmen with Mehemet Ali, through Colonel Campbell, the Consul General in Egypt The Pacha was to provide 'arabas'o waggons of the country, camels, and animals, and to maketb road from Suedia to Aleppo, besides furnishing the peopl who might be required : and persons in authority, from tb highest to the lowest, were to aid and assist. But intrigue from a quarter which looks with cupidity upon our posses sions in the East, and would wish to thwart any project fo rendering them more valuable, or adding security in them t us, had succeeded in working on the suspicions of the Pacha and in creating alarm that our enterprise was not for th mere conveyance of letters and passengers between India am England ; such an object alone could not, they argued, be o such great importance as to encourage all this expense am hazard.
There is so much deceit in the system of Eastern govern ment, that the Pacha was easily led to believe there might b bad faith on the part of England. At all events, it was safe to stand still than to move — to allow nothing to be done thai to have to undo by-and-by. These were reasons of grea weight with an Eastern, and had they been consider^ 6< early as to discourage the British Government from the enter prise, might have been home without complaint ; but now ii was too late. To allow the Expedition to be fitted out and t( appear upon the coast, ready to begin to work, and then U shut the door against it, was an insult to England. Th< Mutsellim, or Governor of Antioch, had received orders nol to permit us to land.
Amongst other things, we had been directed by Colonel
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNEY. 387
Chesney to examine Djezzer Hadid, or the Bridge of Laon, APPX. over the Orontes, about two hours above Antioch. We ._ / ,. therefore rode to it with our new friend the Pole. It turned 5'**f?^I'^
Hadid.
out to be built of stone, with a gatehouse on the left bank. The arches were too low to admit of boats of any size passing through them, though they were larger than those of the bridge at Antioch.
Eeturning to Antioch, a jackal followed us from the Gate Return to of St. Paul for half a mile : it was dark, and on approaching Antioch. close to the town we saw a beautiful illumination at the tops of the minarets, to celebrate the eve of the new year.
April 8. — This was New Year's Day with the Mahom- New year's medans. As the First of January is with us, it is a day of con- ^\^^ ^^^
•^ 7 J Mahomme-
gratulation and good wishes for the coming year : everyone dans. dresses in his best clothes : the day is passed in payins: and in ^^^^"^
i r J & custom^,
receiving visits. The streets are alive with people passing and dress, &c. crossing, all in fresh, bright, gay clothes ; the rich accompanied by a due proportion of servants — the pipe-bearer, secretary, grooms, and attendants, carrying sticks of silver with hand- some large knobs, and, as a friend of mine excellently well de- scribed it to me, * their bellies full of pistols.' At the visits the conversation consists of compliments, and wishes (expressed in various terms) for health, happiness, and prosperity. Sherbet, pipes, and coflFee are served after the most approved fashion, and with the more attention from the servants that they re- ceive, as a prescriptive right on that day, a present as the visitor leaves the house. During our visit to Ibrahim Pacha's visit to tho chief secretary, he received a bundle of letters, which he Pacha's opened and read whilst we were with him, a practice not the ^^^'^^^^'y- least uncivil amongst the Turks ; on the contrary, they court the interniption, because the receipt of letters betokens busi- ness and importance. After duly reading his letters, the secretary announced that his Highness Ibrahim Pacha had left Cairo to return to Antioch, a piece of news which was carried without loss of time all over the town.
In the evening we were joined by some of our party, who Unfavonr- had come up the banks of the Orontes to examine it ; but »^l® report they did not report favourably of it. In many places it Orontes. rushes violently over a rocky bed, and in others it is crossed by dams for mills constructed at the sides. The scenery,
c c 2
388 MAJOR-OEXERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURXEY.
ATTX. liowever, is beautiful, through high impending rocks, and ^^ , •_ liills covered with trees ; or through cultivated valleys, with
vines, fruit-trees, and corn. .
H»tinn to On the following day we returned to Suedia. Colonel
* " **• Chesney had learnt the prohibition of the Pacha, but, thinking
it a shameful want of faith to the British Government, be
determined to act upon the first engagement, to execute tb<»
Colonel directions he had received; to land, and to use every effort to
rheunr^ s ^^ fon^'a^d with the Expedition, unless compelled to desist
tioiitolAnd by force. He had, in fact, already begun the disembarkation ;
dition*^ everyone was busy in landing our stores as quickly as possible;
many things were ashore, and we had already suffered a loss,
which was likely to have been of the greatest consequence.
Ixws of A small keg of valuable materials for the engines (valves,
engine ^ ^ screws, nuts, and suchlike) had fallen into the water — dropped,
in the as it was being landed, close to the bank, but in deep water.
vuu of* ^pi'il 9« — The Governor of Antioch presented himself this
thpQover- morning at oiur little encampment, to visit Colonel Chesney,
Antioch ^^^ receivttl him on board the * Columbine': a salute was
fired for him as he stepped over the quarter-deck. Hisolijert It soon appeared that his object was to prevent the dis- the d^M^m- ^"^Iw^rkation of the Expedition, which, however, had slready barkaiiou. made considerable progress. Much conversation took place, after which it was agreed that Colonel Chesney should give him a paper declaring himself responsible for the conse- quences of landing, but demanding formally from the go- vernor the as>istance promised, and ordered in the first place, by Mehemet Ali. I>«»ti»rniin- jij^ impossibility of advancing beyond our encampment tiiHCum- determined Colonel Chesney to send me to Damascus, in nmntlor to order to reuioustrate strongly with Sheriff Pacha — who, in the absence of Ibrahim, was charged with the government of Syria — and to make a demand for a fulfilment of all the assistance agreed upon by Mehemet Ali. We possessed a copy in detail of the different points engaged for. Set. out I set off immediately after the visit of the Mutsellim, ac-
stauntoii compauied by Dr. Staunton, and took up my quarters at for llamas- Antioch ;«gain with our hospitable old friend George Dibbs. ^"'** An application was made for horses for our journey, and a
cowjiss, who is a sort of gen<larme, or armed servant of the
MAJOR-GEXERAL ESTCOURT's FIRST JOURNEY. 389
Government. Several cowasses are attached to people in APPX.
authority, in number depending upon their rank or wealth. ^^ ^* ,
They lounge about in tlie yards and outer rooms, eat, drink, ^'Owasses,
and are insolent : they inflict summary punishment upon all pioyment,
who attempt to interfere with their wants and wishes. A ^e^.and word and a blow is exactly their system ; they swagger, and swell their master's dignity for the sake of their own. They are employed in extorting money, and in all the exactions of government, in which service they do not forget themselves.
We had great difficulty in procuring either horses or the Difficulty
cowass; for, after the order prohibiting the Expedition, the 5.„^^"
authorities were afraid to allow us even the accommoda- aninmls.
tion usually accorded to travellers. After the delay of half Leave
Aiitiocii
a day we got oflF, and immediately began to creep up the mountain at the back of Antioch by a steep and stony track. This ascent, though the most severe, as rising from the level Ascend a, of the plain, was only the first of a succession of heights, till sjccession we had crossed the mountainous district connected with Gebel Acra and the range of I^ebanon.
In about four hours we came to the village of Soria, where Village of the cowass had had directions from George Dibbs to procure a lodging for the night. Soria is a Christian village ; the houses, like those of Suedia, are of mud, but the roofs are I^^^c^ip-
. ' tion of
not in the same picturesque style ; they are flat. We rode village. up to a house, conducted by the cowass; no question was asked about the possibility of receiving us ; it was a matter of course that what there was we could have, and whether we were welcome or otherwise seemed of no consequence : nor is it so at any time, either amongst the Turks in the towns, or the Arabs in the desert. The stranger rides to the Sheikh's house, whose duty it is to receive all travellers, lodge tbem, and feed them ; he there dismounts, and not only de- ^ayo?*^ pends upon being well treated, but frequently gives himself receiving airs about the fare, and thinks it not unbecoming to treat his ^^S^"- host with contempt, and abuse his best efforts to please.
Most houses have one room set apart for strangers; in Accommo- that of the Sheikh it is always so ; and in the tent of the ^moncat Arab a partition is carried across, to divide one portion from the Arabs. the other — one being open to anyone, and the other being the sanctum of the family. In this instance it was no great
390 MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNEY.
AlTX. matter to have such a room reserved as that into which we
* ^ — . were shown; it was up a few broken steps, through a low
door, into a dark room without a window — the walls nideh built of mud without whitewash. A few holes served the purpose of shelves, a few sticks thrust into the mud did for pegs; the floor was uneven, and also of mud. The first operation was to clean out the place (for it was very dirty), to spread our rugs (for everyone travels with his own), o?t^h?"Mo- ^°^ ^ deposit our arms and baggage. We then strolled aboat l>lr, &c till supper was ready : this was spread upon a round flat mat, about three feet in diameter, to which we sat crosslegged: as yet we were at a loss without knives and forks, for we had not loamt the method of using bread, which, being in flat cakes, is made to help the fingers in drawing a mouthful to Mrtliwl of the side of the dish, from whence it is safely carried to the ^* *"*>* mouth ; this is managed with some dexterity, and is not then so very disagreeable. After supper, pipes, and coffee, we laid ourselves on our rugs and slept. Desorip- Next morning (April 11) we arose and continued oar
countiy. journey ; the road was hilly, and the country uninteresting. In nine hours, after traversing a plain, we arrived at the edge of a steep hill, overlooking Djenzer Schogger, which we saw directly below us ; the descent was by a zigzag paved road cut into broad and regular steps, A long line of camels was climbing up at a slow and stately pace, adding very mudi Town of to the picturesque effect* The town is on the left bank of s5h***^. the Orontes, over which there is a stone bridge ; the river is rapid, clear, and full ; on the other side a valley spreads itself as far as the eye can reach, rich with the finest pasture. The town we found poor and dilapidated, having suffered latelj from an attack of the mountaineers, the Druses, whose sub- mission to the Egyptian Government had not at that time been effected. Ruined as it looked from the hill, it was more wretched still upon a nearer approach ; most of the houses were pulled dowu, nor did it seem possible to find one that Difficulty would servc us for a lodging ; but afler passing through the jngotHng nibbish for a short distance, our cowass brought us to the iDg«.°*^ house of a man whom he directed to lodge and feed us for the night. This man had no fancy for the tax, and did not pretend to esteem it an honour ; but his growlings were
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNEY. 391
silenced by the cowass, who would have exacted hospitality APPX, with a stick, rather than forego any attention or good fare he ' .
thought the man could afford — or rather that he thought us, including himself, entitled to.
April 12. — This morning we crossed the river by the Cposs the bridge, and entered the valley. We rode close under a line "ridged * of hills on our left hand, having the full breadth of the valley on our right, through the middle of which ran the Orontes, and beyond were the beautiful mountains of Anti- Xibanus. Before us were picketed the artillery horses of the Encamp- Syrian army ; they reached as far as we could see : in a ride ^rian ^ of five hours we had not entirely passed them. Every horse army. was picketed by a fore and a hind leg, leaving his head at ^^^ p^
DicketinflT
liberty ; this is the constant practice all over Syria, and I {Jieip believe it to be a veiy secure method, especially when at pas- ^onea. ture. The animals looked exceedingly well, neighing and arching their necks, in the animated style of the Arab ; they were fine specimens of the breed, for the Pacha gives larger prices for horses for his army than are commonly given in the country ; even three purses, or 3,000 piastres (about 30^. 30/. the of our money), is not an unusual price ; whereas a purse and a i^ual pnce half or two purses (from 1 51. to 20L) is the cost of a good horse, for the tbough some mares fetch even as much as thirty purses (SOOi.) ;* ^^^' but then they must have an undoubted pedigree from one of the five mares of Mahomet, possess all the marks of excellence, speed, and good luck, have been taught to wheel and halt when at full gallop, have a broad chest, a fine spirit, a hand- some carriage, and a gentle temper. The Arabs know no- j^^y^ thing of the anatomy of a horse, but they have methods of knowledge measurement which no doubt afford them, though they do not know why, very sure guides for ascertaining good propor- tions ; thus, from exactly between the hip-bones on the back measured over the tail, and down to the ground under the heels, should be equal to the distance from the same point between the hip-bones over the neck and down to the nose.
Upon leaving Djezzer Schogger, we had meant to have Leave breakfasted at any encampment of Turcomans we might Aiezz«r chance to see ; and as the morning advanced, and our appe-
« This exorbitant price is asked to prevent the possibility of a sale, as an Arab is considered to be an inheritance in the tribe.
392
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S HROT JOURXEY.
Mound likA the tamuli in Salis- bury riain.
Invitation to tlie General's tent.
Entertain- ment with the Syrian general.
Ceremony
before
meals.
tites grew more importunate, we anxiously looked about for the black tents of those hospitable people, but in vain. At length we were passing near a high mound, which stood like one of the tumuli on Salisbury Plain, but very much larger; we saw on the top tents larger and of more importance than those in the plain, and several persons collected about them; a soldier from the party coming to meet us, saluted and in- vited us in the name of the General to rest in his tent, and to breakfast with him. We were too hungry and too curious of the manners of the country to refuse : we therefore followed the soldier, and entering a large round tent, lined with yellow, we found ourselves before the General, who sat with a full view of all the horses belonging to his command : his baggage was piled neatly behind him ; carpets and cushions were spread on each side of him ; and his servants stood with their hands before them, awaiting his orders. As we approached, he arose, and invited us to sit near him ; pipes, sherbet, and coffee were introduced ; he asked many questions about the Expedition, of which he had heard, and was exceedingly affable and polite. He was a thin gentlemanlike man, of good manners, dressed in the plain costume of the Egyptians, which consists of a jacket, waistcoat, large trousers, and i silk white-and-striped sash. Like the upper ranks in the service, he wore black, with the decoration of his grade on his left breast : it consisted of a crescent set in diamonds. The Egyptians diflfer from the Turks in the taste for hrght colours. The most correct colour is black : Ibrahim Pachi either wears black or blue, and the superior officers follow the example. There is no particular uniform ; provided the dress is of the right cut, it matters not of what colour it may he. After talking and smoking for some time, a basin, with a small stand in the middle of it for soap, was brought round to each of us in turn, but to our host first ; an embroidered towel hung over the shoulders of the servant, who poured water over our fingers from a vessel which he carried in his right hand. After this preparation a small stool was placed before us, and upon that a large metal salver ; bread was laid round it, and we were invited to seat ourselves before it. Each dish was brought singly and placed in the middle: w« were expected to pailake of each in its turn : our host gnvt
MAJOR-GEyEBAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNKY. 393
the signal when to remove one and bring the next. He APPX. apologised for the scantiness of the fare by saying he was _ / ^ tiving in camp, but there were notwithstanding five or six ^"f^y® dishes, all very good, and well cooked : the last, according to an invariable rule, was a plain pilau, which being discussed, we fell back to our places, washed our hands, in the same manner as before, smoked, and sipped our thimbleful of coffee. After more conversation, we thanked the General Take leave for his hospitality and rode on, very much pleased to have General. seen so good a specimen of life as it is conducted amongst fhe upper ranks.
We soon passed beyond the long-stretching encampment of the artillery; but the same plain continued, with the same abundance of herbage, a beautiful tract for feeding the boTses of the cavalry, which for the three spring months of Mounds at vegetation receive no rations. We observed to-day several intervals of the mounds, on the top of one of which the General had miles. fixed his tent: they seemed placed at regular intervals of about three miles, and between each was a stone, about five feet high, on the line of the road : the mounds were circular, and might be about forty feet high : the stones apparently The road were to mark the distances. As we approached Kalat Medyk, Medyk, a we found that we were riding on a regular chaussee ; for poormiser- here it was sufficiently perfect to indicate exactly that it was lage. one of the roads in the ancient days of the country, when Kalat Medyk was Apamea, and flourished with handsome buildings, pathways, and amphitheatres.
Kalat Medyk now is a miserable village, but has an impos- situation ing appearance ; it is situated on the top of a hill, overlook- of Kalat ing the valley of the Orontes, and surrounded by a good wall ^ of cut-stone : the approach is by a steep paved ascent, cut Deacrip- diagonally up the hill, and entered by a gatehouse. Outside ^i^n of the the walls, which probably enclosed the castle, as it is called to j^^nj^jng^f this day (* kalat' meaning castle), we found remains in cut- cut-stone. stone of a place of considerable size, situated on the hill, but not so elevated as the castle. We could trace the shape of some of the buildings by the foundations ; some were even more perfect, especially the entrance, as it seemed, to an Amphi- amphitheatre, of which the size and form were ([uite distinct, theatre.
Our evening spent in rambling about Knlat Medyk was
394
HAJOB-QENERAL ESTOOUBT'S FIBST JOURNEY.
APPX. IIT.
Violent attack of ticM.
Kalat. Schogger.
Town of Hamah.
Watep- wheels on the river.
Cultiva- tion, fruit- trees only.
A kind host.
Arrival at IJoma.
iuterestiDg and pleasant, but our night was miserable : our room was as bad as it well could be: all the poor diseased creatures of the village came for help to my companion the Hakim (as they called Dr. Staunton), who dispensed a little medicine with a great deal of good advice, not to smoke nor eat greasy things, advice which they would not follow. At length we were obliged to beg them to leave us, that we might rest, and rise early the next morning ; but sleep proved out of the question ; the most violent attack of fleas utteil] deprived us of even one moment^s rest, till, unable to bear ij any longer, we jumped up, mounted our horses, and rod away. In the course of the day we passed under a rock upoi which were the ruins of another castle, Kalat Schogger : i was a narrow space to build on : the walls were still in exist- ence, but dilapidated : a gatehouse was standing, and a fei poor people lived within the enclosure.
In the evening we reached Hamah. It is a large town o small houses ; and is chiefly remarkable, nowadays, for tb size of the waterwheels, which are turned by a little rife and raise water to the required level for irrigating tb gardens, and for supplying the houses. They are fundshe<l fiifter the oldest fashion, with small pitchers attached to th outer circle : these are filled as they pass through the watd and as the wheel is forced round by the current they ri« till they discharge their contents into a trough at the top sometimes (as is to be seen on the Euphrates), the strear acting on the wheel alone is not strong enough to carry u] the full pitchers, in which case fans made of reeds are at tached to the radii ; they project at the side, and, beinj pressed upon by the current, help to drive the wheel Ii the neighbourhood of Hamah there is a good deal of cultin tion, but no trees except fruit-trees : the soil seemed ricb but rather stony.
We were lodged with a hospitable kind Christian, to whoa we brought a letter from George Dibbs of Antioch. Nothing could exceed the attention of our host; indeed it wasmon than was quite agreeable, for we were not yet broken inti Eastern manners, and found the incessant salutations irksonn and inconvenient.
April 14. — Leaving Hamah, we reached Horns in one day a large but deserted town : some silk is lusvnufactured Len*
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT's FIRST JOURNEY. 395
but there seemed neither business nor pleasure in the streets. APPX.
1 TT
Just outside the walls is the ground where Ibrahim Pacha . _ 7^' _ . beat the Turks in the last war.
From Horns we had the usual difficulty in getting away ; constant promises from the Mutsellim that horses should be provided^ but none forthcoming ; till we became angry and The Mut- went ourselves to him^ to enquire the reason of our detention, ho^.^ As is invariably the case amongst these people, we fouud him full of the most polite duplicity ; he expressed his deep regret that we should have been kept, but wished us not to harry away from Horns ; the journey to Damascus, he said, was across the desert for four days, and we ought to rest before undertaking it. That sort of language, however, only made us more angry ; we insisted that we must go, till at length orders were g^ven in our presence for the horses we wanted. But then we had to combat against taking a guard ; He pn>- the road was across so wild a country that the Mutsellim could IJ^^^ not answer for our safety without a guard : we declined it, for us. however^ until he assured us it was as much as his head was worthy if any misfortune should happen to us by the way. The case was then changed : if it were to satisfy him we could have no objection, but the charge was not to fall on us, a condition which was not quite within his meaning. All being agreed to, we left him : the horses came the following day, but late; a small guard on horseback was in attendance, and we set forward.
The first night was spent at the village of Shunsin ; it is en- Village of closed within a wall of defence, having one gateway : such is ^'^^*'^'*- the practice in almost all the towns and villages bordering on the desert. The houses were wretched, and the place itself hardly more than a khan or hostelry. The entrance to our chamber was by creeping through a small low door, and its size within was about eight feet square, irregularly bmlt^ and dirty. A little bread was got for us, and we went to sleep, fortunately with better success than at Kalat Medyk. The guard had been, as was suspected, an excuse to extort Our guard. money : it consisted of four men on horseback as far as Shun- sin, and an attempt was made upon us there to induce us to undertake the expense of paying them ; but finding that we were determined, the four dwindled down to two, having first compelled the Sheikh of the village to take the place
390 MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURTS FIRST JOURNEY.
APPX. of the deserters, with a party on foot. By-and-by the
^\^- ^ were reduceii, till we went into Damascus with only oi
horHeman, a most impudent feUow, who, with the mulet«
had impeded our journey provokingly all the way. A con
phunt, however, to the Governor of Damascus, throuj
Mr. Farren, the Consul-General, gained for both a bastioad
which would have been followed by imprisonment, had i
OurjaniB- not begged for their release; when, to my great surprij
**'^i* *" ^^^ janissary, with all the impudence in the world, present
himself at our lodging to ask for a present for having servi
us well.
The road from Homs to Damascus is, as the Mutselli had told us, over a desert ; it passes two or three villag< enclosed within a wall for protection. By degrees the desc becomes partially cultivated, till you descend into the valle VillaR* in which is Taifia, a better sort of village, in the midst of Taifia. corn-lands and gardens. From Taifia we ascendei the h range of mountains before we caught sight of the bro valley of Damascus.
It was a beautiful prospect : rich, well-cultivated, aboun
VttUeyof ing iu fruit-trees and gardens; open to the desert to t
Danjatjcuu. gQ^th-east, but enclosed on all other sides by high steep hi)
which again are overtopped by the snow-capped Liban^
and Mount Hermon in the distance.
ArriTal at Damascus rose amongst the trees, looking white, and gi
and elegant. Not many years ago a Christian could scaro
dare to enter the city ; even later none but a Mussulman cot
ride through the streets on horseback ; but since the govei
meut of the Pacha of Egypt all such bigotry has ceased. 1
encouragement and protection of Europeans has entirely ]
an end to the indignities to which they were formerly (
posed. A European can now not only pass safely throu
every part of Syria, but he will also meet with considerati
even in his own costume. Most people who travel in \
country adopt that of the Egyptians ; yet, except for co
fort's sake, it is not necessary.
IKscrip- After passing through very pretty-looking ganiens,
the city. entered Damascus by a gatehouse, where there w-as a gui
of soldiers, and so along several of the bazaars, which j
celebrated for their extent. They are large covered pasi:a^
,-*
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT's FIRST JOURNEY. 397
with an uninterrupted line of small shops on either side. APPX,
There is a raised step ahout five feet wide and two feet high, x_ , '
where the people sit, smoke, and talk. The shop behind is '^^® sbops. a large cupboard, furnished with shelves. The owner sits croeslegged in it, and spreads some of his wares upon the raised seat before him to tempt the passers-by.
The men spend the chief portion of their time in the bazaars The — some for business, but many more for idleness. A crowd 18 always passing and repassing. Coffee and sherbet, pipes and nargilehs, are supplied from a small recess at the end of each bazaar, where there is an establishment for the necessary implements, and from thence some one is constantly employed in running about with coffee or lighted charcoal for those who are seated.
To be a shopkeeper is a great ambition. Having once Shop- acquired sufficient to establish a shop, the title of ^jETo- ®®F«- wajji^ or gentleman, is given, and proportionate respect is shown.
Damascus is termed amongst the Syrians a very *kaif' or pleasure-making place. Amongst the gardens around are places of public resort, where parties of women assemble for air and amusement. They sit wrapped in their white sheets. Costume which cover them completely ; on their feet they wear very ^^^^^^ large awkward yellow boots, so that all delicacy of shape is entirely hidden.
Without the walls there are cafea^ built over the clear small The cafh. rivers which flow beneath. They are delightfully cool quiet places during the heats of summer, and are usually crowded with people.
Close to Damascus, upon the ascent of the mountain, is a Suburb of suburb called Salahia, where the more opulent have summer residences. The air is there fresh and healthful ; a supply of water flows through it in its course to the lower town, and by means of conduits is carried to the different houses for the tanks and fountains, in which there is great luxury in the gardens and even in the chambers.
Damascus has still Hhe street which is called Straight ;' * j^^'the*''" there is a cellar, now fitted up as a Christian chapel, which Ejist. is pointed out as the house of Ananias, and a spot is shown
* Act« ix. 11.
=;•?
â– 'e
if
r*?
of the escape ot nt. raui alter ma miracu and whether it be the place or not, when I doubt of the fact. lodeed, to enjoy a jour Holy Land and Syria, you must not doubt lee«t for the time.
Our business at Damascus was to see Sh
be was absent upon a visit to the neigbbo
Interrirw Salem. However, Boghaz Bey was there, and
^^^^ ConBul-Geoeral, was fully assured that we
Key, upon the answer of Boghaz Bey as upon
Pacha himself; for be was much trusted
Government, and was the chief counsellor of
accordiugly paid him a visit with Mr. Farrei
nothing from him, except an assurance of g
everything we could possibly desire should
given, upon an order from Egypt to that t
very unsatisfactory, and we determined to re
Py<t*ni of There was again some difficulty in p
^fJ because the government was seizing men ai
Mirier. military service ; so that the poor people we:
into the place, lest they should be caught s
not allowed to return home : indeed, I dot
have got animals at all, had not Mr. Fari
cowasses to seize any they could find. '
wanted having been obtained in this way, 1
MAJOR-GBNEEAL ESTCOURT's FIRST JOURNEY. 399
it, being within the walls of Damascus, they mighty though APPX.
lired by us, be treacherously seized for soldiers. v. ^ .
Having heard that Ibrahim Pacha was at Tripoli, on his Leave Ba- way from Egypt to Antioch, we determined to go there, to Trirwlt °' cy wbat could be gained from him. The road we took was luroucfli Baalbek. Upon leaving Damascus we ascended the ^i^TfinfAin above Salahia, from the top of which we had a iplendid view over Damascus and the whole valley in which it Ib idtuaied. The first village where we halted was Zebdani, Zobdani. % pretty picturesque place. The next day we crossed Anti- [a^M^Tiim^ and descended to Baalbek : the road was moun- fcainous and difficult. Towards the close of our ride, we BBpied some columns and ruined buildings in the valley just before ua, and others on the top of a hill to our left : they did not seem extensive, but were plainly ruins of better buildings than are now to be seen in the country, and we 4UXM>rdiDgly rode up to examine them, when upon reaching the spot we* saw the magnificent ruins of Baalbek just below hb ; the line of Anti-Libanus on the right ; the plain of CSoelo-Syria before us, bounded on the opposite side by the pand chain of the Grreat Libanus.
Baalbek viewed from this spot looked magnificent, and to Ruins of me surprising in extent and grandeur. The present inhabi- ^^ ^ ' tants are few ; it is but a village ; but the remains of the old buildings of different dates still exist, and the Temple of the Sun stands forth, grand in the extreme. The walls and towers of the city are in parts standing, and the watercourses are there, and still furnish an abundant supply for the place. But the Temple of the Sun absorbs every interest : it stands Temple of raised upon an elevation, which is entirely enclosed by walls : one portion of that space is an oblong building with a colon- nade round it ; the vrindow-cases, architraves, and doorway are ornamented with beautifully-cut patterns, ears of corn, grapes, and many other devices, in excellent taste and perfect workmanship ; the pillars of the colonnade are Corinthian, and the entablature is divided into compartments, each dif- ferent in pattern, and of the choicest sculpturing. Beach- ing over the door are two figures of Fame, and on the key- stone is an eagle with the thunderbolts of Jupiter in his talons : this stone is of immense size, and has fallen from its
400
MAJOE-QESERAL ESTCOUBTS FIRST J0UESE1
APPX. place, but bangs caugbt halfway by the greater br ^ â– ifci upper portion.
Bt.-^idea this beautiful temple, which seems more < to have lieen dedicated to the Sun, are also van cbanibera ajid enclosures of considerable size, prep niches for the reception of busts and statues — raij for ijucriiice, perhaps, and a sunken place, which was a basin for water ; but the most conspicuou whether seen from a distance or from near, are six Columnar columns, standing alone — the sole remains of the b remami. which they belonged, and with a highly omameutal resting upon their capitals. Tlie size of the stones the whole building is constructed is wonderfuL Y immense mass lying on the ground, and upon exami] detect a portion of ornament, so large and in such you can scarcely believe it to match the light elegant i which surmounts the still-standing pillar, and which i looks BO delicate and in such just proportion. Th is a fine-grained sandstone, much resembling in < bath-stone, but considerably finer: it is more liJi which U to be found in some of the old churches in and which, I believe, is said to hare been brought : mandy. Those who hare been in Portugal may the same description of stone atBatalha. The quai QiMrrinnf whence tlie stone of Baalbek was cut, are within a li.ialUk. ^ half of the place: there is still to be seen an immc cut and prepiired ready to be carried away.
Our time would not allow us to remain longer at we therefore set off for Tripoli, intending to go by I of Lebanon. To ascertain the road, we cons ' Jlodern Trareller,' from which we learnt that we throiigli Anete, cross orer the chain of Libaaus, a to the Cedars; but upon enquiring for them, no on< C-ilnrsof found who knew anything of Anete or the Cedj ime forward and declared he was well acquai the ' Scdgar Kebir,' or the ' Crreat Trees.' This was a satisfactory account of them ; but it was the xu proach to a description of them that we could therefore determined us to engage liim as our guide Oiu" road was for two hours across the fertile
• LflMoan.
MAJOE-GENERAL ESTCOURT's FIRST JOURNEY. 401
Coelo-Syria, to Dur-el-Alkmar, at the foot of the hills under APPX.
libanus. After ascending and descending, we reached a spot, ._â„¢' _^
vbere were five large ash-trees and a subterranean chapel,
wliieh our guide declared to be the birthplace of the Virgin Subterra-
Marj: the trees, he said, were the Great Trees; he knew of "^L^
aone others, nor did he know of Anete or Bsherrai. We
•eemed to have left; all population behind ; there was no one
k> assist or to direct us. It had become very hot, and we
were tired and thirsty ; however, there was a pond not far oflF,
fco which we rode for water. Our animals had felt the heat
M well as ourselves, and pressed forward to drink. Dr.
Staunton's horse rushed on with such impetuosity that ho
Ml forwards into the deep water, for within two feet of the
edge the sides were perpendicular. After swimming round
lad round for some time, it contrived to scramble out, and,
except a wetting for both the rider and the horse, no damage
was done.
Whilst this was going on, a man came up, from whom we A guide. leanlt that the Cedars were on the other side of the moun- teinn — that he knew the way, and would lead us there. He proposed that we should sleep at Anete, but that we should take food with us, for nothing was to be had at Anete. Where it was to come from we could not guess ; there ■eemed to be no one near; but he soon procured for us a little flour, some salt, and a small pail of ^ leben ' or sour milk. With these we set forwards, following our guide ; but in a diort time the pail became inconvenient to carry, and it was ■greed to drink the * leben ' at once. I pressed our guide to partake, but he refused ; till, supposing that I was not satis- fied, he took a mouthful, and showed me he had done so, to convince me he might be trusted — that having eaten with us he would not deceive us. After wandering uphill and down- hill through woods of dwarf oak, we came to the foot of the mountain, where, our guide said, was Anete, though scarce a Ancto. ▼e^tige of the village could be seen. Here we were to pass the night, and accordingly deposited our baggage and arms igainst a large detached piece of rock, where we made a fire. Our guide made dough, kneaded it upon a stone, and flattened it out into large cakes, which he placed upon the hot wood- ashes, covering them over with more. In due time they were
D D
402
MAJOB-GENESAL ISfftCGUKSfS FIBST JOUBNEY.
Diffinilt aacent of Mount Lebanon.
Roach tho aummit.
The dcscont.
baked, and served us for supper ; we then made up the f placed our arms close alongside us, and laid ourselves dc to sleep, for which our long journey and scanty fare 1 prepared us. The next morning we rose before daybreal begin the ascent of the mountain. It was still early in year for crossing — no one had yet been known to pass ; our guide's plan had been to sleep just below the line snow, so that in the morning we might traverse the mo tain before the heat of the sun had thawed the surfi The ascent proved more difficult than he had expected ; tb were no marks to guide us, no path, nor any track ; it ' extremely steep, and we were not early enough to reap l)enefit of our guide's plan ; the mules sank into the sdi and slipped and struggled ; the muleteers were loud in tl entreaties to us to give it up ; even our guide at length a it was useless ; the animals could not cross. Dr. Staunt however, was still for persevering, though he was himself v much exhausted ; and at length we reached the summit
From thence was to be seen the sea in the direction Tripoli, and a wide extent of country, comprising mounts valley, and plain ; below us, looking black upon the m were the far-famed Cedars, a small patch upon the side of mountain.
All our troubles were now supposed to be at an end; descent, we thought, must be easy ; but the sun had risen this time high in the heavens, and melted the snow upon western as well as the eastern side of the mountain ; ev step we took we sank through its full depth. The mu with their small feet, found it more difficult than ourseh they struggled and floundered, till the muleteers again treated us, even now, to turn back and give it up. That course, was out of the question : we threw the loads off mules to relieve them, and let them slide upon the sno^ the bottom. One mule after another was then helped d( — sometimes by lifting one leg, then another, and sometii almost the animal itself. All got to the bottom except timid mule, the last of the string. The owner, a Christ h.'id been in tears some time, for he supposed that his ani could not be extricateil from its difficulties : it w^as, he s his sole dependence for providing a marriage-portion for
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S FIRST JOURNEY. 408
sister : but it struck me, that if we could but upset the animal, APPX. she might slide to the bottom as the baggage had already /_. done. I therefore made a sign to the other muleteer — who iva8 a Turk, and not so ready to break his heart as the Chris- tian— to give me his help ; and whilst the creature was strug- gling and off its balance, we turned it on its side, and let it go. Nothing could have answered better : the poor Christian at first in despair, but the Turk was delighted ; away the mule, and reached the bottom safely, where it got up iUid walked off to its companions. The difficulties being at in end^ the loads were soon replaced upon the mules' backs, aoid we continued our journey by a less steep track*
Presently our guide, directing the muleteers to the Ebeikh's house at Bsherrai, led Dr. Staunton and myself itraight to the Cedars, which we saw before us. We soon reached them. Our guide prostrated himself at the foot of Oie largest, where a rude altar of stones had been raised, ind where Mass is said on the day of the Transfiguration ; tie then told us he had fled from his village to avoid the con- Oar guide icription, and now lived a wandering life upon the mountains ; ^^^^ ^• lO that he could go with us no farther. The little present of money we gave him for his services pleased him : he bade us Gh>d-speed, and left us to recross the mountains.
We were now under the Cedars, and I must confess myself to have been disappointed. There are five very large trees, DeBcrip- bot their size arises chiefly from the swelling of the trunk Codaw. |ii8t where the branches shoot, which is from low down. IHiey have, indeed, a very aged look ; the branches are very large, and their general appearance is ragged. Of the rest, a lew more seem old and are large, though not so large as the five; the remainder are young and small. Staunton ^read many of the Psalms which speak of the cedars or of Mount Lebanon, and so we passed our Sunday.
After a couple of hours spent in this celebrated spot, we went to Bsherrai. The bells were ringing, for all this coun- try ifl Christian, and the people were out, it being Sunday ; aad our adventure having been told by the muleteers, had taised a curiosity to see us. The Sheikh was a good old The Sheikh JEOan, who treated us with great hospitality. Bsherrai is bmous for its tobacco.
D D 2
404
MAJOB-QEKERAL ESTCOUBTS FIBST JOUBNEY.
APPX. Ul.
Medical convnlta-
Village of Eden.
Arrir&l at Tripoli.
Inteiriow
with
Ibmhim
The evening was spent in full conclave. The peopl< round the room, after the usual custom^ curious to see us to hear the news. Dr. Staunton was soon found out t a physician. Diseases, curable and incurable, were bro to hinu: to some he gave medicine, to others he woidd only an answer quite unsatisfactory, and not understood he was a Hakim, a Hakim Frangi, and must have rem< for all complaints.
The next morning we got away. The road lay thn the village of Eden, along the side of a deep valley: coming to the end of that part of the mountain, we had t view of the beautiful and fertile tract between Libanus the coast. Descending into the plain, we passed thr< gardens and groves of orange and mulberry-trees, till reached Tripoli, called in the country * Little Damas from its reputed neatness and luxuriant environs.
April 28. — To-day we paid a visit to Ibrahim Pacha, was staying at the Port of Tripoli, called ^ Marina," whi about half an hour distant from the town. It was not any hope of inducing the Pacha to lend the promised & the Expedition that we paid the visit ; for we learnt on ai at Tripoli that Colonel Chesney had been there from Si in the * Columbine,' and could only obtain the ever-r answer that everything should be done, as soon as 01 to that effect should be given by Mehemet Ali ; but for self, Ibrahim declared, he was without authority — that h a mere soldier, and would only follow instructions, thoug personal feelings were much inclined to the Expedition, this meant nothing but a refusal to move a jot.
We were conducted, upon our arrival at the Ma to Ibrahim^s medical officer, a German of the nam Choehi, a clever man. With him we found Ibrahim's secretary, or rather confidential attendant, who had eiiucated for seven years in England. He had been sent many other Egyptians, by Mehemet Ali to Europe for cation ; he bad passed some time at Cambridge, and ui stooii English very well. By him we were conducts the Pacha, who came into the divan as we entered by an* door, tluis avoiding the doubt about rising or not i to receive us. His appearance was not prepossessing
MAJOBrGBNEEAL ESTCOUBT'S FIBST JOURNEY. 405
was a fat ungainly man^ with a scanty grey beard and APPX, a small quick eye : he was dressed in the plain military , ' -
costume of the Egyptians, but without a sash. Ibrahim, who is really a thorough soldier, assumes a carelessness of diesB and manner, as becoming great talent. Pipes are con- demned by him as promoting idleness ; he rarely smokes them liimself, and never offers them to his guests : indeed, he pro- hibits pipes even to his oflScers, an order not much obeyed. Notwithstanding these reformations, however, he by his own eiample, and by precept too, encourages the vice of drunken- ness ; so that the valuable Mussulman habit of temperance is not retained in his army, though so thoroughly engrained in the habits of the people. Intoxication is not punished among the soldiers, and those who indulge in it do so to excess.
Having seated ourselves, the Pacha with his legs stretched oat, we talked generally of the Expedition. Ibrahim said Ibraliim's he had spoken to Colonel Chesney only upon those points ^®J? ^'. which were the cause of his visit, and that he wanted to Expedition know a little of how we meant to proceed — to cross the country with our heavy materials, to build our boats of iron, and to descend the river, which he believed to be, in parts, too shallow. We answered the diflSculties he suggested as well as we could, though I believe he remained convinced that they would prove not so readily surmountable. He could not comprehend how an iron boat should swim, nor how the draught of water should be so trifling with so long and so large a vessel. When we told him that we had a few presents for the Arabs, he laughed, and recommended us by no means to give them any — that there would be no end to their ra- pacity. At the conclusion of our interview, he invited us to take our passage with him to Suedia in his steam-frigate, a hu'ge English-built vessel lying in the offing.
As we expected, nothing was gained by this visit, and we had to return to the Orontes without the removal of a single difficulty. We took a boat at Tripoli, for there were no horses Take boat to be had, and we could not wait for the Pacha. The sails ^^^ Tripoli. were ragged, and the gear mere packthread. We spent two nights and two days uncomfortably enough ; but we had still something to compensate for it in the magnificent view of the coast and the range of Lebanon, of which the outline was
406
UAJOB-OBNERUi BaTC0DRr*8 FIBffF JOC
APFX. beautiful, and the colour deep blue and very t
, ^: . touched at Sotoaa for provisioas ; but bo wre
Bato^_ place vas it, that a few eg^, onions, and brt
could procure.
I«uki>. At the end of the second da; we got to Lat^
received with great hospitality by the family (
NaiiTf who is a native ; his brother was Consul for the '
^"•■^ both were handsome young men, very kind
Their mother was a nice old lady, who took h
the European bshion, at the head of her own
pretty daughter made one of the party.
Latakia is pretty: it has a harbour with!
vessels, and has a large share of the Aleppo tra
nqrau the From Latakia we took horses, and after i
^^"^^ days through a mountainous woody country, s
Gebel Akra, we descended to the Orontes, croesf
and rejoined the Expedition where we had left
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 407
APPENDIX IV.
• A JOURNEY FROM SUEDIA TO RESCITID PACHA'S CAMP NEAR DIYARBB.KR (1835).
BY THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOURT.
All Colonel Chesney's attempts to procure camels, for the APPX. transport of our stores to the banks of the Euphrates, had . ^y* . entirely failed. Ibrahim Pacha was not to be moved, and his orders to the diflferent officers were strictly obeyed. Some camels, which had been hired, were on their way to Suedia ; but as soon as it was known at Aleppo, the chief officer of the district, Ishmael Bey, sent directly to stop them, at their peril. Seeing, therefore, that our detention was likely to be complete, if he depended only upon the Egyptian Govern- ment, Colonel Chesney determined to try what aid could be obtained from that of the Sultan, which was considered more friendly to us than that of the Viceroy of Egypt.
All sorts of intrigues were employed to defeat the Expedi- Litrignea tion ; but the Sultan's Government was less alarmed, and ^'°8^^**®
' , . ' Expedition
therefore less inclined to impede us, than that of Mehemet Ali. The firman of the Sultan was sufficiently strong to warrant the diflferent officers in giving every aid the country could aflFord. It was addressed to every description of au- thority; and though the independent position of Mehemet Ali enabled him to take his own course, yet Colonel Chesney fully relied upon all those who immediately belonged to the Sultan's Government to render assistance. Accord- ingly, I set oflF on May 8, in the evening, on a mission to Reschid Pacha, accompanied by Lieutenant Cockburn and Mr. Staunton, our surgeon, meaning to go by Khillis ; but no horses could be procured in Antioch for Khillis — we there- fore were forced into the other road by Aleppo.
Having reached Djezzer Hadid at 9 p.m., we found that i)jez2ep tlie caravan of mules, to which in fact our animals belonged, Hadid.
408
MAJOB-OENEBAL ESTCOURTS SECOND JOURXEY.
APPX. IV.
A night halt.
A manh.
Eastern tnirelling.
Tun^omnn cuftit*.
was encamped on the plain hard by : we abo made a h; tliere, and spread our cloaks for the night, not quite to t 8<itisfaction of one of my companions, who had not yet lea: how comfortably a night might be passed with no other p tection than a cloak. A glimmering light attracted < notice, for we were hungry ; and a man being despatched try what could be found, returned after some time v sunie flat cakes he had waited to get made, a little milk, i some * leben ' — a description of sour milk, exceedingly pi sant, especially in summer ; it is the common method preparing milk. In the course of the night there w some showers, but our carpets and cloaks kept us co fortable.
At dawn of day we bathed in the Orontes, and n forward over the plain, where the grass was at least a f and a half high. We were obliged to make a wide circ to avoid a marsh, which occupies a large portion of the pk It is formed by the overflowings of the AflFrin river and Lake of Antioch, and in the spring encroaches very mi on the surrounding plain. The rushes grow in it to a gi height, of fifteen feet and more.
It was a charming morning as we rode slowly over plain. In travelling, the pace is never faster than a ws but, though it would be tiresome to move so slowly anywl elw?, there time is of little consequence — no one hurries, nature was growing, and we enjoyed the freshness and pl( ing sensations it communicated.
I^y-aud-by some black tents of the Turcomans appeal this plain is the chief resort of those who own the autha of the Pacha of Egypt. They are famous for their hospital We were invited to rest with them for a little while. T immediately began to pound coffee, to prepare bread, ant make * leben.' The practice in making coffee is to roa few grains upon a shallow iron ladle, then to pound tl thoroughly whilst the water is boiling in the pot. ' pounded coffee is then poured on the top of the wa allowtnl to boil up about three times, and is then poured into tiny cups for each person. It is not clear, but quantity in each cup is small, and the coffee pounded finely, that tlie grounds are rather pleasant than othenv
MAJOB-GENEBAL ESTCOUBT's SECOND JOUBNEY. 409
rhe bread is prepared by rolling the dough into exceedingly ^y^'
thin cakes ; these are laid for a minute upon an iron plate, . — ^
jligbtly convex, over the fire, are turned once or twice with Bread-
% cane ; soiall blisters rise, and they are done; they are then
laid by in a woollen cloth, to retain their freshness and heat.
They are excellent. The ' leben ' is a mode of preserving milk, Preparing
and much more wholesome than milk, in a raw state : the ® ®°'
method of preparing it is by placing the milk upon the fire
till it just begins to simmer : it is then taken off, and a spoonful
of former * leben,'^ or any acid, is put into it ; it is covered
over, and allowed to stand ; in a short time the whole becomes
tumcKl ; it is of about the consistency of what is called * thick
milk.'
Whilst all this was progressing, we sat upon our carpets Turcoman on one side, the Turcomans on their hams opposite, smoking and sipping coffee. Our arms, guns, pistols, and swords attracted their admiration ; in fact, though they frequently express surprise at other things they happen to see in the hands of Europeans, they understand how to appreciate only arms and horses. These are necessary to every man who leads the life of an Arab or Turcoman. To the former they are still riches, for with them he acquires wealth by spoiling others; to the latter, they are not equally a source of riches, for they live in a country more effectively under the Government of Egypt or of the Sultan, and are no longer able to levy contributions upon travellers as they used to do.
The Turcomans are a wealthy race ; their tents are lofty and large, and they possess flocks and cattle in abundance. The Plain of Antioch is one of their districts of pasture ; Plain of there they find abundance of water, and plenty of grass in ° the spring. As the summer advances that diminishes, and formerly, before the autumn rains had begun, they were in the habit of migrating to the mountainous country of the Taurus. Ibrahim Pacha, however, has interrupted that practice. He has endeavoured to break through their no- madic habits, and to force them to settle in one place : partly because, in their periodical emigration, they passed from his territory to that of the Sultan, which did not suit the uncer- tain peace in which the two Governments exist; and partly
r
I .
I
410 MAJOB-OENERAL ESTCOUBlfS SECOND J01JB5ET.
APPX. because he ¥ri8hed to eDCourage tillage and the growt >. — t^ — " com. With this view, those Turcomans who chose to
grate were to understand that they could not return, an<
Pacha knew too well how necessary the fine grazing o
plains of Syria was to their numerous flocks to doubt
would be their choice.
^^^^ In governing these races, the system has been, and is
Turcomaiu to make the chief responsible. The fidling on the pa
anyone to execute the commands which are given, is v
with such severity upon the chief, that he takes good
not to incur it. The mode of punishment is usually by i
i i| so many measures of grain, barley, indian-com, or whej
so many purses of money, a purse being 500 piastres, o now about five pounds of our money.
Having rested for two hours, we rode on again, plain continued, but on our right it was terminatcKi by of hills, at the foot of which, standing by itself up elevated spot, is an old fort. We observed here, as wi I before, in the Valley of the Orontes, towards Hamal
VoloiDie same remarkable mounds. We saw them again on the
moaDtls. of Azass. They are very curious, like giant molehil
believe they are supposed to be volcanic ; basaltic ston
seen on the sides of some of them, and scattered to
I. tance. What is still more curious to observe is, that
' I stones cover perhaps one side, but leave the other fn
if, when the little volcano was at work, the wind had ;' what was thrown up in one direction — and if it were so,
must have been but one eruption. ) As the sun got up the heat became intolerable, so tl
if were glad to make another halt under a single tree, cl
I the remains of a stone bridge. It was a fatal halt, f
Disadvan- pasture was there so good, that there was no persuadij tages of muleteers to leave it. Delay after delay, upon one exc ^^^ another, took place till ten o'clock at night ; nor shoi have moved even then had we not got into a passion, i contrived to convince the muleteers that we were in es No one can conceive, I think, who has not himself experi it, how terribly patience and good temper are tried if y< travelling in Syria in a hurry, and have no interprei janissary to enforce your wishes. The muleteers are li
t
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOISTD JOURNEY. 411
look surprised at your anger, but do not seem the least aware ^^^
that they have caused it, much less that they could prevent ' r-^— ^
it. They do not laugh, or show the least impertinence, but only let the storm rage and pass, and then they smoke again I We had to bear this more than once during this halt ; but at length we broke through their obstinacy by running after the mules ourselves, and driving them up to be loaded.
The road was now over a mountainous barren tract. To- wards the morning we passed through a very ancient town Ancient in ruins. The buildings were of stone, well cut and well put together ; it looked like the work of the Romans, The arch of a pathway still stretched across the road, which is paved with large paving-stones — such as are seen in Pompeii, for instance. One small building alone is standing, probably a private dwelling.
Towards three o'clock in the morning the muleteers prayed A morning for a halt The spot was not in the least inviting ; it was a ^ barren stony side of a hill, where there was a well of dirty water. But we were very tired, cramped by the Eastern saddles and the slow tiresome pace ; therefore, without one word of objection, we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and were fast asleep in a moment.
The remainder of our journey was still over the same sort of stony country. At last Aleppo appeared. It is very Aleppo, striking, from its size, its minarets, its buildings, and its castle, which stands by itself upon a round hill in the middle of the city. But though the country all about is stony and desolate, the colours, owing to the climate, are rich and deli- cate ; a pinkish-grey generally prevails in the distance, which is very beautiful.
We rode to the house of Mr. Kilby, a British merchant, Visit to who had undertaken to transact the business of the Expedi- tion— a very active, industrious, intelligent man, who had lately established a firm in the place in connection with Glas- gow. At his house afterwards we always met with hospitality and kindness. It is no small advantage to have a place of refuge in Aleppo ; for the public khans are very disagreeable, and the usual system of having a billet upon a private house is not so common as elsewhere, owing perhaps to the many travellers who pass through, whose number would make it
412
MAJOB-GENEEAL ESPTCOUBT'S SECO^^) JOUENEY.
APPX.
IV.
*»— — »
Public
Pwrrp- tkiii of Alr|>pO.
chamrter of Flavtern town*.
Efl«*ctsof tbqiuke
burdensome to the iuhabitantA. The public khans are po plaots for a tired traveller. Thej consist usually of a squa courtyani, around which are long stables for animals, a small rooms for men. The stables are prepared with 8m niches in the walls for mangers^ and the room is a pla chamber abuut ten feet square, with a door to the court, which the keeper of the khan gives the key. For the pooi travellers, muleteers, and attendants to the animals, there : large open recesses, where they deposit their things and sle There are no servants to furnish the necessary wants, ba shop is generally established at the entrance, where forage to be bought as well as bread, and where, over a charco fire, small rolls of meat strung upon a skewer are to be se coukiug; they are called 'khabaubs,' or delicate morsels. I mrely that the European traveller of any pretension is oblifi to have recourse to the public khan. The Mutsellim of t town will either receive him himself, or more usually a&^i him to some good house.
Aleppo is well-built for a Syrian town, chiefly of stoi the streets are narrow — no windows look towards the Some of the houses are large and handsome within. 1 bazaars are very extensive. There is a quarter for 1 tailors, others for the slipper-makers, the linendrapers, 1 druggists (which includes confectioners), the workers gold and silver; in short, every trade associates by its( and occupies a separate bazaar. The castle stands upoi considerable elevation, which I believe is artificial. It is si n^unded by a deep ditch, and the £Etce of the mound is pa\ with cut-stone. The entrance is by a causeway upon an ai stretched across the ditch.
But striking as is the effect which Aleppo produces a distance, and superior as it is to other cities in Syria, s the traveller cannot but feel disappointed when he is wit! the walls. Every town in the East has a sombre charact and in Aleppo the dire destruction from the last earthqui has not been repaired or cleared away. As we looked fin the top of Mr. Kilby's house, and could see into some of 1 neighbouring buildings, we could discover heaps of rubbish around. There is no spring in the constitution of a Tui be knows nothing of the principle * aide-toi et Dieu t'aidei
MAJOBrGENEBAL ESTCOUET'S SECOND JOURNEY. 413
He bears the blow which crushes him with resignation, and APPX. has no rebound within himself to help him up again. For — /^^ this reason — and also, it must be owned, because the constant demands of the Government carry oflF a large share of the means — Aleppo is left in ruins. The trade, however, is con- Trade of siderable and increasing. A few English houses introduce Aleppo. cotton goods from Manchester and Glasgow, and create an improving traflBc with Bagdad and Diyarbekr. It is a trade which should not be neglected. In former days it was very great. The Euphrates used to transport large quantities of goods from Bir to Felujah, from whence they were conveyed to Bagdad by canal ; added to which, caravans of some thou- sands of camels used to cross the desert. Of this trade, that by the Euphrates has disappeared ; but the caravans are still in full march, and thus the productions of our manufactur- ing districts are conveyed into the interior of Asia. Oriental patterns are sent home, and cotton goods come out to supply the wants of people who are so distant that they have hardly heard of the country from whence this imitation of their own manufactures is brought, and know nothing of the wonderful machiaery which can provide them, even there, cheaper than they can make them for themselves.
Eound Aleppo there are some few gardens ; a small river its gardens supplies water ; the bazaars are extensive and busy; the hum ^^^ and hurry and confined air render it fatiguing to pass much time in them.
Upon this visit to Aleppo, the British interests were en- inefficient trusted to a miserable Italian, who was so much alarmed at Consul. the idea of mixing himself in the aflfairs of the Expedition, that it was useless to expect any assistance from him. My business was to remonstrate with the chief officer for his conduct in stopping our camels, and for the interruption with which the Expedition met. But our poor Consul could not be brought to comprehend what was his duty as British agent ; I was therefore obliged to do without him. How- ever, I had no success in my negotiation. The officer in command was Ishmael Bey, a young man, I should think, Ishmael between twenty-five and thirty years of age. He had none ^' of the usual shuffling of the authorities, but, with perfect politeness, told me plainly (though he shook with nervousness
1
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iH 11AJ0K-GE5EKAL ESTCOrBTS SECOND JOOESET
AT:;!. »; the K:sp'>DatiIity he waa incumog% that he bad i "' order \,ack th« cameb, and that no astibtance voi gi;en lo the Eipeditioo- During our interview we hei •[y^ t^, slapping of the bastinado in the court below. Mr. uk^ l->:-kcd out of window, and saw a man on his back w Lure fn;> tied oTer a stick, and receinog upon thi EiTrn^h of two men with * kudbaghea'. The ' kudbo, h-. rirwhip made of rhinoceros- hide, and inflicts i LI0W& I^hmarl Bey had the bad taste to Look out al lao^h at the pain he himself bad ordered. IMfTmia* I iio« dctenntoed to proceed to Keachid Pacha at Diy ^^_]^, aoJ wished to take the line by Beles. After much di ttiM. in finding a muleteer who had ever heard of the pi leo^h one was hired, who undertook to conduct us. eanic time I wanted an interpreter and a servant Ibbv ■■ft'tmer was eoon engaged — a clever little rogue, who icirflMtc gj,^ J French, a little Italian, Arabic, and Turkish servant, however, waa not so easily settled; thoi wanted places could not bear the idea of so long a j' or the dangers of so much desert. The Aleppines eSeiv-iuate people, and cannot believe in security imli rouudt-d by the walls of their city. I saw no prospect of Ad a servant, and determined to set off without one ; 1
Aic;^iftp evening before our departure a little fellow presented who could speak only Turkish and a little Arabic an Armenian ; his eye was so Bharp, and he appeare< telli^eot, that, though I could not tell how we were 1 ^ miiiiicate with each other, I engaged him at once-
I never afterwards had reason to repent ; he was a most :
ifelluw, and watched every motion to find out wh wuDted. ' Whilst we were at Mr, Kilby's house, we saw a
process of striking a bargain upon a sale he was ma Nnliro certain goods to a native merchant. There are broki brokers. j^^^ employed by both purchasers and sellers ; the what goods a merchaut has, and what are his prices he receives a fresh cargo they inspect it, and make thei acquaiuted with the views of the merchant: thus pn thoy pcrauibulate the bazaars to find out purchasei are able to conduct them to where they will find whi
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 415
want. They then arrange the bargain — an aflFair sometimes ^^^' of days, but always of hours ; the merchant asks more than ^
he means to take, and the buyer oflFers less than he means to Eastern give ; the steps by which they approach to an agreement are ^^*^^*^®* tiresome beyond description. In this case there had been much higgling in the morning, but with no result ; in the evening, however, we were disturbed by the entrance of the broker, who came dragging his victim by main force, talking fast and loud, and using actual violence to compel his man to finish the business and make the bargain. But no — that was 'not to be accomplished yet. Then he ran at Mr. Kilby, seized him by the hand, and insisted that he should agree to the pur- chaser's terms. But no— Mr. Kilby was firm, and could not be moved. The broker hereupon got furious, and at length drew them violently towards each other, seized the hands of both parties, joined them, and declared the bargain concluded. Mr. Kilby did not aflFect all the sorrow customary on such an occasion, but the native merchant did ; you would have sup- posed he had given his hand to something by which he had sealed his ruin, and he wept aloud.
On the 15th we set off, at half-past six o'clock in the evening, and travelled till three in the morning, when we Leave bivouacked close to a curiously-built village; every house ^^^' was roofed with a dome drawn rather to a point.
May 16. — We mounted at sunrise ; the country was plain, with a good soil, and plenty of grass. Towards midday the heat became excessive ; we halted by some water, but had no shelter from the sun, and therefore could get no rest. In the afternoon we continued our journey till 10 p.m., when, after crossing a rapid stream by a ford, we found so tempting a spread of grass, that we laid ourselves down and enjoyed a delicious rest — the sky above glittering with stars, and the river rippling in our ears.
May 17. — Our journey was again over a plain-country: Level cha- indeed, I remember no part of the road from Aleppo which J^^^'y^trv would be impracticable for a carriage. About 9 a.m. we could discern a line of bluish heights, which we suspected to be those of the Euphrates — the great and interesting river to which we were all looking with so much anxiety; at 10 o'clock we touched upon a largish town (Mizar), from whence great
416 MAJOB-OENERAL ESTCOUBT'S SECOND JOUENEY.
APPX. abundance of oil is carried to Aleppo : we did not enter it Al
IV.
» a well here we found a poor Jew, who gave us some water t
drink ; he said he had been waiting five days to be allowed t
enter the town, and that he was now expecting the retnr
of a messenger sent to Aleppo for a ' tuskar^y ' or license I
that effect. The poor Jews are considered fair game for ti
exercise of every governor's caprice.
ArriTal In two hours from Mizar we reached the Euphrates iteel
just opposite to the town of Bir, or Birejik ; the first is tl
Arabic name, and the second the Turkish. It has a strikii
appearance, having an elevated castle looking immediate
over the river. The walls of the town are built perpendio
larly from the water, and the ground rises much in the rea
so as to give a view of the whole extent of the place. Clo
along its walls flows the Euphrates : in the spring, during tl
high water, it is about half a mile in breadth, but in tl
autumn it is reduced to about 200 yards.
Ancient At Bir is the chief place for crossing — ^indeed, it is the on
piisM^ of place till you arrive at Anna ; though the Arabs do cro
phrstM. upon skins and rafts wherever they desire, and when tl
water is low, they have fords by which camels pass \
different places. But Bir is the established passage, ai
has been so ever since the days of Abraham, who himse
is supposed to have crossed there, when, following tl
guidance of God, he migrated from Haran to go into ti
Ferry boats land of Canaan. The boats for the ferry are, perhaps, \
old in construction as those which Abraham himself ma
have used. They have a flat floor with high sides ; at on
end is a raised platform for the steersman, who perfom
his duty by working a long heavy sweep, which is balance
over that end. The other end of the boat is open ; tl
floor merely rises up about a foot to keep the water ou
but otherwise it is an open entrance, the full breadth (
the boat«
In speaking of Bir as the only passage till you come i Anna, it is right to explain that it is the only place soutl wards : for above it are the crossings of Bumkala, Samsa &c. Upon coming to the water we found an oflScer under tree : ho belonged to the service of Ibrahim Pacha, and w ou outpost-duty to watch the ferry. Upon my return fro
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 417
>iyarbekr afterwards, a change had taken place in the terri- ^^' orial boundary of the two provinces. By the treaty of
Ibrahim Pacha had to give up the whole of the mchalic of Orfah, which he did with great rehictance, and lied by all means at; least to keep the boimdary of the Suphrates; but through the interference of England and France he was compelled to yield, and therefore had to *etire to the line of the Sedjur, a distance of ten hours back.
Whilst we were detained waiting for permission to cross, Reach WB rode up the river, but by doing so had wellnigh lost the l^^^ejik. dbance of getting into Birejik that night; with much diffi- salty the governor was persuaded to admit us, but not iniihout the precaution of sending a guard of 30 men for us, to ensure him against surprise from Ibrahim's men.
May 18. — We visited the governor. He was an old heavy- Visit to the looking man, who began his intercourse with us with abun- governor. dant professions and promises, founded upon his vast expec- taiions of gain ; but being too rapacious, he was disappointed : he turned out a treacherous bad fellow, and an addition to our oiher difficulties. When visiting him we had an opportunity of seeing the castle ; it stands upon a rock cut off from the town by a natural separation, but having the slope at the foot of the walls strengthened by a facing of stone, similar to the castle at Aleppo. The interior has been quite ruined by earthquakes.
At one o'clock we resumed our joilmey. The country was Journey barren of everything except shrubs of wormwood. A large ^â„¢ik ;l|^rd of camels was grazing not far from Birejik, and for Ae first time I saw them move faster than their customary Itately walk. The cameleer wanted to collect them, and had lHounted one : he had no halter, but seated on the animal's hmck, with a thick stick in his hand, he drove the creature tt a long trot, guiding him from one camel to the other derely by laying the stick either against one side or the Ktber of the neck.
In the evening we halted for two or three hours, and then ode on till about three o'clock in the morning; when, having ft>«sed a mountainous track, and being excessively tired, we arned our animals a few paces from the road, spread our
petfi, and went fast asleep. How long that lasted I cannot
£ E
418
MAJOB-GENERAL ESTCOURT's SECOND JOURNEY.
Encamp- ment of
ArtbH.
Arab and his mare.
Price of horsi's.
tell ; but suddenly I was awoke by a noise. I sprang up, and saw Antoine, our dragoman, with my gun, hallooing afters man, who was running off as fast as he could. Antoine toM me this had been the third he had seen lurking about us.
>Mien the sun rose, we found ourselves not far from an encampment of Arabs, from whom we procured * leben,' breid, and *khymack,' which last is precisely Devonshire creanu Presently, as we sat eating, an Arab came riding up, hii lance in his hand, and his handkerchief folded three-corner- wise over his head, having one corner hanging down on eack side of his face, after the Arab &shion. He dismoimted, and stuck his spear upright in the ground, secured his mare \ff tying her head to her foreleg, and then passing the halter oi to the hind-leg; such is the practice always. He tbes approached us with salaams, and took his place upon bii hams opposite to us. He had a forbidding countenance, but he turned out a good specimen of an Arab.
His mare now became the subject of conversation : she m a pretty creature, showing high breeding. He told us stwn of how she had saved his life many times — how she hi brought him foals ; and praised her powers of endurance, her many virtues, and her value to him when bound on plundtf- ing excursions, of his success in which he boasted opeolj* Wo wanted water, but, there being none at hand, he moimted his mare, and rode off with a leathern bag to fetch some; soon he returned cantering over the country, followed by te son, a little child, upon the young foal of his mare. He vi* fond of his son, and of the foal too ; they seemed to share to affection equally. He told us his son came to salute him ^ the morning, but he bid him go salute his mother, the mu^j
who brings him all that he has to eat^ True or blse» I listened to these stories with great interest; they were 9^ stories as we have always supposed characteristic of tli«i*| curious people, and here they were from the mouth of o* of themselves, expressing clearly their thoughts, and habile | and ways of life.
Tlie Sheikh of the tribe next rode by upon a beautiful roAj only three years old. I asked him to sell it ; he wanted 3,0W piastres (30/. sterling). I offered, by the direction of tk*] dragoman, who pretended to be knowing in horses, 10/. W the Sheikh knew the value of his animal, and rode away.
MAJOR-GENEBAL ESTCOUBT's SECOND JOURNEY. 419
This reminds me of another instance, proving how much APPX. M people value their horses^ and which adds not a little ^
their interest Whilst we were resting in the evening, Ambat- Amhy mounted on a delicate bloodlike mare, with a foal ^o horses, lier side, rode to the well where we were, to water. I Bd him to sell his mare ; but he said, for all I could give fc he would not part with her. She had all the appearance « pure blood — a fine intelligent delicate head, a pro- lent eye, graceful in movement, with great sinew and ingth.
"n the evening we reached Orfah. The approach is over a Reach 3p rocky mountain, on the descent of which, towards the ^^***- Ti, the road is cut with some care into broad steps, like «e in the palaces at Bome. Orfah stands at the bottom, iked by mountains, and with a plain of alluvial soil to the Lth-east, as far as the eye can reach. The face of the ^nntain behind it has a curious appearance, from holes and •"eras, which have been used as dwelling-places at diflFerent leg. The town is surrounded by a wall, and upon a high i overlooking it is a castle in ruins. Two remarkable pil- V stand up in the midst of it, about which there is a story i that a certain cruel Kins^ Nimrod made use of them as Trmlition place of punishment: there was a chain stretched from ^^ ^""'^• e to the other, and a beam so attached that, when drawn ek and suddenly let go, it should fly forward with great Jence. The poor victim was placed upon this beam, and 18 shot over into a volcano which used to exist below. Tra- ion states that a holy man had been doomed to suffer this oishment, but was miraculously saved from hurt by the cano being suddenly converted into a pool of water, so t he fell into it uninjured. The pool is now a tank of ^r, enclosed by cut-stone, which ornaments the front of a y pretty mosque of unusual sanctity. There are fish in tank so tame that they swim after anyone who approaches, the sake of food, which is frequently given to them, ristian strangers are allowed to walk by its side, but not it, 83 I discovered from having excited some indignation sitting down to sketch the mosque : an old Turk came up ne, and requested me to move away, hfah was the famous Emessa of the time of the Crusaders.
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420
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTC0URT8 SECOND JOURNEY.
APPX. It is biiilt of stone chiefly, ami looks well at a distance; but _ • ^ within it is poor, deserted, and dirty. Not long since, at the Th« town beginning of the present Suhan's reign, it was a place of ^ importance, full of janissaries, and vying with Daniascns Id
Mahomedan bigotry. The destruction of the janissaries however, and the change in the system of Turkish govern- ment, has, like that in the government of the Pacha d Egypt, put an end to religious persecution. Europeans, aod even native Christians, enjoy some relaxation from former ill-treatment. An in- Whilst I was at Orfah, an instance occurred of how
Turkish much matters had changed at Constantinople, and hov lilx-rality. jjj^j.^j ^ Iggg^jn was now to be taught the arrogant Turks of this place. A regiment of cavalry fresh from .Stamhoni marched into Orfah ; the barracks had to be furnished witk mats for the soldiers to sleep upon, as was customary. The . Christians were applied to, and required to furnish the quia- tity wanted; but amongst them all they could not find enough, except by ginng up those upon which they dcpl themselves. This the governor insisted they shoidd do— in short, provide them they must, somehow or other ; but thej, in despair, referred to the colonel of the new regiment, who, having learnt more liberality at Stamljoul than was commoB at Orfah, and less veneration for a mosque, ordered that the Christians should be spared, and the complement made up either from the Turks or the mosques. The Turks were horror-struck, and gave none, so the colonel sent his soldien to tlie mo8(jues to provide themselves.
The baziuirs are better built and l)etter supplied thai would 1)€ exj)ected from the general appearance of the plac^: indeed, though not so extensive, they are better kept, better built and ordered, than those at Damascus.
We took up our quarters at the Armenian Convent, where Lieutenant Lynch, of the Expedition, and his brother weie already lodged. One room was given to us within the ck* of the church, which until our arrival was a school ; but «e partook of Lieutenant Lynch's fare, supplied for him by the Bishop, in wliose house he had qmirters. His home, the church, and our room were all enclosed within a wall ha?ii)| at the entrance an arched gatehouse.
Bazaars of Orfah.
Tho
Armenian
Convent.
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCJOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 421
Lieutenant Lynch was negotiating for camels, hoping that, APPX. if they were engaged within the territory of the Sultan, the
Egyptian authorities would not interfere with them, and we NegoHa- might in that way be able to transport our stores to the great ^^ig^' river. But the camels could carry only a portion of the stores; and after-experience proved that oxen, horses, men, and waggons would all be required to convey the heavy tx>iler8 and parts of the steam-engines.
Leaving Lieutenant Lynch to continue his business, we pursued our journey to Diyarbekr. The first day's journey was chiefly over the desert, with here and there a few scat- tered black tents, until about midday, when we fell in with
immense encampment of Kurds. Their tents covered the Eocamp- of the country, and though at first sight quite irregular Xurda^^ in their order, yet as we rode through them we could discover the tent of Malik Selim himself, the chief. Its size and im- portance, with that too of those around, indicated the dwell- ing of a great man ; whilst in groups — some on elevated ground, others in the valleys — we saw that the smaller divi- lions were arranged round their own Sheikhs, whose tents * were marked by the tall spear, with its bunch of ostrich- fiaathers at the head, stuck upright in the ground at the tent-door, where also stood the horse ready-saddled, and picketed by his legs.
This encampment was under Malik Selim, the son-in-law Malik >f the chief of all the Kurds of that country, who, with ^^*"' lis immediate followers, had pitched his tents at no great [istance oiT. The grazing ground of this powerful tribe extends southward to the neighbourhood of Racca, and noilh owards Samsat The numbers included in the encampment re saw under Malik Selim were said to be 30,000. Jub JubAgha. igha^ the father-in-law and chief, had probably not less with lim. The Kurds have large flocks and herds, camels and lOTses ; their tents are large, and indicate riches ; they are a rery important and powerful people, whose independence lad been, as yet, scarcely interrupted by the oflBcers of the Sultan ; they exercised lordship over a vast extent of country, fcud though they owned the Sultan as their sovereign, and the chief of their religion, it was rarely that they could be com- pelled to pay their share to the public treasury.
422
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTOOURT*S SEOOJO) JOTJKXET.
APPX.
IV.
^"^^^ "I
CtLTv^r of
Reschid
Pucha.
KltM^ko aiid lionU.
i^vrrek.
But just at this time the tide was changing. Rescbid Pacha, whose name is well known in Europe — the same who was sent to subdue the famous Ali Pacha of Jannini^ and afterwards was employed in the war with Bussia— had lately been appointed Pacha at Diyarbekr and Vizier of Asia Minor. He wajB a vigorous determined man, and had already waged a successful war against the Kurds to the east of Diyarbekr — a people not known, in the Ufe of anyone living, to have yielded obedience to the Sultan ; bat he had driven them from the plains, and followed them t0 their mountains, carrying artillery over parts consideied before impracticable — burning their villages, grinding tboee he caught, till he compelled one chief after another to piif for mercy and submit. These successes had frightened tbe Kurds of Jub Agha, and at the time we saw them they were in suspense to know their fette.
In Reschid Pacha's councils there were also apprehensiou from the character of Jub Agha himself, and the number of his tribe. The Kurds were doubtful whether to submit or not, whilst the Pacha was uncertain how to induce submission by intrigue, ii^ithout risking an open war against people who, having no settled habitation, can move here or there, advance to fight, or retire into the desert with equal ease.
The encampment we fell in with was a fine sight— so exti'usivo, the flocks and cattle so numerous, and the tentf so large. It was remarkable how accurately each flock followed its own shepherd, and even at the well, where two or three flocks were waiting, huddled together, they kept their separate parties complete, pressing close upon the beds of their own shepherds. The horses are also fine, somewhat larger than the Arabs, very handsome and powerful. ThiJ <lay we cha**^ed a wild sow, followed by a young pig, but it took to the hills and beat us. In two days we came to Severek, a poor but ancient place. There are the re- mains of a castle, having a surrounding ditch and some portion of the walls still existing.
From Severek we crossed a very stony tract, asct'uding into a hilly woodland of scattered trees; then descended into an extensive plain, upon which were dotted, here and there, a few groups of tenti^ In those which lay in our road we found ample hospitality.
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 423
Next day, after passing through a wild country covered APPX. with trees, we came to another valley, highly cultivated and . ' _ - eery wide ; at the distance of about a league and a half stood Approach Diyarbekr. As we approached, we found it to be surrounded ^^^^"^ by a high wall, in tolerably good repair, with towers at about ULZty paces apart, and a ditch.
At the gate we had to wait whilst our dragoman rode on to the governor to ask for quarters. It was an hour before he returned, when with him came two janissaries abreast, fol- lowed by the janissary-in-chief; these preceded us through the most public parts of the city, creating so much noise, and causing so grand an effect, that all the people in the bazaars â– tood up as we passed.
The house which had been fixed upon was that of a Chris- Our host. tian, a rich man, who treated us with overwhelming con- sideration. He considered it his duty always to be with us, and even asked permission one evening to accept an invita- tion out, which he could not bring himself to do without nany apologies.
In the evening we had supper, preceded and followed by A Persiuo tea instead of coffee — a practice common in Persia. It was ^^^^^' aenred in the same little cups as are usual for coffee, and irithout sugar or cream. After supper two musicians were introduced, whose instruments were a long-handled guitar, with a small hollow for the sound — I believe a dulcimer. LJpon these they played, accompanying their voices. An at- endant stood by to hand round tiny cups of spirits from inie to time. As the spirits were introduced the voices were tdaed, and as they grew louder the old Christian's heart ex- panded. He was delighted, encouraged the musicians to still freater efforts, and rewarded them again and again with pirits. Every evening was the same.
Upon paying a visit to the governor, we found him seated ipon an open divan overlooking the Tigris. Diyarbekr is a Descrip- •ectangular enclosure, of which three sides are towards the ^?'* ^^ )lain, and the fourth is along the top of the high bank of Jie valley of the Tigris, which flows immediately below. Upon this face is the castle, the residence of the pjicha ukI governor. The pacha was away upon his expedition Uy tame the Kurds, but the governor received us with great
;*-4 llAJ0K-GE3fEK-IL ESTOMRT's SECOND JOURNEY.
*~.^ •:.:.!"/. A-i u?*j.»!. he «i:J :iil he conUl t«» detain u>. lut in
^ " :' '.r :iv* w^ sct •:•(? ajain.
Th-? TLrr.i ar KvarWkr is shallow enomrh to t'jrd in the ' V *:AV I.. :LvUj:h i: is det-p in the spring. At this time it *-i^» <:11 ll^t 't-" 'iecnrisizig ; it was of a reddish colour, juid :.'. :::: - i :y :■; le u&exi f.T l«arhing.
We cr.ccei ihe river bv a stone bridge of nn ancient date,
11. T-ry g'-:^ nfpair. a rout half a league b^low the place:
i^i ic-3 r>ie over p'.a:n-o -iintry, partly cultivateti, l.it
V ..â– :...rt gtC-rraHy pastiii>?. V-.iliges were rare, rhoii^'h the?
'—^^ wr.-t r^.: rl:L »xvas:«>na!Iy. Their character res^r ml »Ied wliat
r. :^ct>rt — pr-.-r ill -favoured mud tenement^. The nz-.-i very rich, with a deep alluvuil s»..il. The ir- :!c »rre dir-trei:: iTM^zn those to the wes^t of the Tii:ri>: ::r:^*r "s-rr A m1!. str'n^. wtll-formevl race, with a ste.idv fve .^.i.": i:. :T>fi:-.:rL.t I.<»k- In drt^s thev resembU-d tlem— a ' 7^" -:-.r: i:T«r- to the ankles, pendent sleeves to near the ^ M- u lirg«r rrd V*»:s^ a:.d a tiir r<ui up^n- tlie head. Mf^c^rt .:. I- i Liv vi,.: j. Lili we oir^ie to MesskiTein, ch:»se under a hv^i :« ^:j.::i;cs ri-igv. I: is a place of great antiquity, bel^npiij: : z'z.'* *. trier .iivs ci the o.untrv, and is surrounde^i bv wa'is :' .-.:--: ii^, pur tc-gech'irr with great care. Tlie interior is hot ^ r-;:r. *Inx^ witho-^: inhabitants. Close t.^ it we saw the r\:r. j^r.s ■. f g%r\iens^ omanienteii with stone conduits for water. ••": xL d:wcU in fivm a i^eautiful clear spring. A few shrul-:? - : -: fcv::rr\r : &cvut, srLii looking fresh and pretty.
Kr."u Mcafe-rt'in me immed:;Ue!v ascendeil a hiirh rvkv
- 'j^, r*.ir: vt a principal chain which. encl«*sing a larvre
-;v'..x :: rjk:--cv>'inurv, extends tr^?m the Tisrris far a^K-ve Di-
\jLr-.nkr. szd r^eaches a^rain to the Tiirris south of Mess«w.n.
I '.cT ::::> *^r rv.\!e Ut aiwut an hour, when we came to il:e
^ - - -■v-^y. ■•."jo? '-f F\rha&i. on the side of a hill, having: irtr-
' rs i::i c.,!::v:3k:i.n in the hollow. Here we slept in the
â– .:?<* -.f a I LrlsOaii. who was in great anxiety about liis tate
Aiid :La: «.•: the village. Fano, one of the chiefs of the
K*..: is. si:.d :he only oce still in arms, had lived there. Hi>
. *..>< . :v. TV vvnsideraWe than usual, had Iven burnt and lio-
-•: \ vi *:\ :rx^ P.%*.S a, ;u;.i the villagers drea*.le*l ]i«»w fir tb»v
^oM'i U :l'..i«W t.^ Mit^Vr with their fornur lord. WV were
t!t-a:«\i w/.h great h<.>>pit^ity and attention^ under the iniprc>-
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURTS SECONT) JOURNEY. 425
sion that we should have influeiirc with the Pacha, and also APPX.
IV from an extravagaut idea, wliicli ha<l spread throiiirli almost > r^ — -
every part of the country where we had hoon, tliat we were come to take posse^i^ion of it, and thus accomplish their tradi- tion, that the Turks shall be subdued by a Knro])ean Power, Turkish and the whole country become Christian. This expectation is ^^^ ^^t entertained by Turks as well as Christians. 'J'he Turks believe tion. it to be so decreed, and arc content ; the Christians hope for it^ and anxiously look to every event they can construe into a sign of the coming change. Our arrival in tliis country had excited these long-cherished desires, and to it we were indebted, I believe, for some of the overstrained attention we received.
Ftom T'erhand the country was again rocky and moiuitain- oiis for two hours, when we descended at the gorge of a val- ley to the village of Zozee ; it is built on the side i>f the hill, Zoz<.^â– . clora to a remarkable perpendicular cleft in the rock, tlirough which a river flows: it is a curious and very picturesque spot. The water is deep and clear, about eighty yards broad ; on the other side, the left bank, is a valley of iine pcosture, with a grove of olive-trees, under which tlie Pacha was en- Tho camped with all his infantry and artillery. We took up our ^'^^^^ ** station upbn a given spot close to the village, and the next morning forded the river at a difficult place to visit the Pacha. We found him sitting imder a common tent, surrounded by his officers; the infantry harl piled their arms in a large square before him, and two pieces of artillery were alongside, protected from the scorching rays of the sun by bouglis of trees spread over them, and we wiw that the men were em- ployed in cutting branches and boughs to cover the arms of the infantry; everywhere they were to be seen dragging their Hpoils from the neighbouring groves.
The Pacha had a very handsome intelligent countenance, with a white beard, and fully bearing out his cliaracter for activity, boldness, and ability. I presented to him the Thr firman of the Sultan, which he immediately put to his jip,,!*,"" head, in token of his submission to his m:u^t(!r's will. It was then read to him, and we ctmversed a short time; Imt I coufd perceive lie did not c(Uiiprehen<l our Kxpedilion, and very much fearetl to compromise himself. He got
i
42C MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY.
APPX. itupatient with the TurkiBh of my dragoman^ which was
IV
^ nut goody and sounded disagreeably to him, and therefore he made him speak Arabic, having that translated to him by an officer of his own. At length he became more impatient, and finding a fitting moment, he made his salaam, and slipped out through the back of the tent to one more private in the rear. I, however, vras not satisfied to allow him so to escape without giving some answer to my demand of assistance, and therefore I named an hour in the afternoon, after the mid- day rest, for another visit. Wlien the time came, I fomid him, as before, perfectly civil, but anxious to put the matter aside, and pledge himself to nothing. However, though be '"^r^K^ w ould not promise to furnish an armed protection for us at Pacha. Beles, he said he was upon the point of marching into that country, and then would arrange something to ensure safety to our establishment and stores ; in the meantime, he gave me a *^ boyardhi,* or order, to the governors and all officers under him., to assist us in every way. These orders are sometimes at- tended to, and sometimes not : it is said that those to whom they are addressed have private means of ascertaining how far it is desired by the chief that they should be obeyed, or whether they have not been given to get rid of importunity, or to satisfy a demand it may not be politic to refuse. This I knew, and therefore was but little contented with what I had been able to effect ; however, I could get nothing fur- r»i!"™k^ ther, and therefore retraced my steps towards Diyarbekr; there our Christian friend received us again under his hos- pitable roof. The same scenes were renewed as on our for- mer visit — the same attention to us, the same loud singing, and the same drinking. We had been absent six days, yet oven in that short time the Tigris had materially fallen ; so uuu h so that we found no difficulty in fording it upon horse- I Kick just below the town — indeed, we even saw a donkey fording near the same place.
On June 7 we left Diyarbekr, rode by the route we had o<»uie thither, visited the same t«nts, and saw the same people. At the eueauipment where we had slept the old man i»*a8 al>Kont, but hiji daughter came out to greet us, and welcome us to our former seats in her tatlier's tent. In the country the women arc not bo cai*eful to hide themselves ; indeed, it
HAJOS-GENEBAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 427
would be impossible to conduct the operations done by the APPX. women, and maintain the seclusion of the towns. As we were * r^ — '
crossing a plain already mentioned, with clusters of tent« here A native and there, I saw for the first time in my life a target in actual ^'^®*- use ; it was of a small size, about a foot in diameter, made of buffalo hide, rather convex, strengthened by strips of brass and nails, ornamented with red paint, and a tuft of ostrich- feathers in the centre.
According to the general practice, we were conducted from Arab one encampment to another, and furnished with fresh horses **^P*tal>*y at each, and, whenever we allowed it, with refreshment ; but at one of the places to which we came, the people had been so tired out by the number of rapacious travellers that they were not inclined to receive us ; but so careful are they of their character for hospitality to strangers, that when, after many excuses and much wrangling with the people who had brought us to them, I determined to walk on on foot, and actually set out to do so, an old man ran after me, kissed my beard repeatedly, and begged me not to bring discredit upon his tribe.
After leaving Severek, we fell in with a part of the large Tribe of tribe of Jub Agha. They were anxious to know about " ^ "• Reschid Pacha — where he was, and what he was doing, and whether he spoke of coming towards them. They called upon the muleteer with us to tell the news of Severek, and at once showed how little cordiality they had with the towns- people, by addressing the man with, ' Dog, son of a dog ! whose dog are you?' — the poor man replying with all humility to their insulting questions, as if addressed in the civilest language in the world. These Kurds had large Tenui of handsome black tents, supported by long poles. They are ^^^ Kw»^- put together in a simple manner. Each cloth reaches from end to end, and ih nearly a yard and a half wide : two cloths are sewn together to make one breadth ; each breadth is furnished down itfi edges with loops and toggles, so that the breadth of the tent may be extended at pleasure, by looping on as many breadths as are required. It seems to be done precisely in the manner described in the Bible, in the thirty- iixth chapter of Exodus, which explains how the curtains of the Tabernaclft were coupled together by loops and taches
428 MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY.
APPX. down the edges. Every year a fresh cloth is made by the ^- — r^ — ' women, and added, and the oldest is removed ; thus, by a constant succession, the tent is kept in repair without much trouble. The elders with whom we sat were dignified personages, of good manners, with a full confidence in their own importance ; they wore remarkably large turbans, made of folds of white linen wound up to an unusual height and grandeur, and bound together by a diagonal black handker- chief. TheBisIioD ^^ Orfah we took up our quarters, as before, at the convent of Orfah. The Bishop paid us a visit : our conversation turned upon the condition of the Christian population; he told us it was about two years since better times had begun with tliem; previous to that, the town was full of proud &natic janis- saries, whose tyranny was beyond endurance. They would come in a party to the convent-gate, demand admittance, which could not be denied them, require a supper, even money sometimes, and having got all they asked, for pure sport they would set upon the humbled Christians and beat State of them. With such treatment awaiting every Christian that is If* ^lu ** ^^^9 i^ is surprising that young men should not have emi- Orfah. grated, to seek a better lot under a juster government ; but the reply to such a question was, * What could we do ? We hope for better times, and trust in God.' For the last two years their fate has been better, but still they suffer much cruelty and injustice. This better condition b^;an with Careir of Maho Bey, a native of Orfah, who having resided near Ibrahim ^* Pacha, and his father, Mehemet Ali, had imbibed the liberal ideas which have done so much credit to those extraordinary men. Orfah fell by the right of conquest to Mehemet Ali, but by the treaty of peace between the Sultan and the Pacha of Egypt Kfter the Battle of Komah, it was to be restored to the former; yet the Pacha retained possession of it, until France and England interfered, and compelled him to fulfil the terms of the treaty. But the reign of the janissaries has passed away, and though Maho Bey is gone, yet the poor Christians still enjoy some of the better treatment which they received under him.
On Sunday, June 14, we returned to Birejik, but so late that the gates were shut ; however, entrance was soon ob-
MAJOR-GENERAL ESTCOURT'S SECOND JOURNEY. 429
tained by means of a small bribe, tendered by our drago- APPX. man. > . * -^
June 16. — We left Biiejik, meaning to clear the road to Leave Suedia, by which our stores were to be transported. It is ^^i'^' right, when speaking of a road, to explain that no such thing exists in the country beyond a mere horse-track. There are no enclosures except near the towns ; therefore the whole country is open, and, avoiding the cultivated ground, may be traversed in any direction.
June 17. — At the tents of Chammoli it was necessary to Chammoli. remove some large stones, and workmen were required from the Sheikh, to be ready at daybreak the following morning.
June 1 8. — Of course the men were not ready ; but by being sometimes in a passion, and sometimes in good humour, as the case required, we at length obtained them; and the Clearing stones were removed. In this way we contrived to clear the line of its chief difficulties, as far as Gachmool, near Azass, about halfway between Aleppo and Birejik.
June 19. — We rode to Aleppo from Grachmool.
June 20. — Introduced to Mr. Werry, the new British consul lately arrived from Smyrna.
June 21. — Breakfasted by appointment with Jusuph, Mr. Breakfast Kilby's dragoman : his family are remarkable for their neatness J^^^jj and cleanliness. He told me he had but one servant, a female; that his family performed all domestic operations : the con- sequence was perfect order, cleanliness, comfort, and economy. These occupations did not, however, take from the delicacy and pretty manners of his wife and daughters. They pre- sented pipes and nargilehs, prepared by themselves, with coffee, sherbet, and the other pleasant luxuries with which a stranger is welcomed ; sometimes they sat down with us to talk, and sometimes were busy in serving the party, but all Brago- so quietly, and without effort, that it did not the least inter- fomiiy in fere with the conversation, or occasion the least distress, from Aleppo, over-politeness. The manners of all the family were remark- ably good, but, strange as it may appear, the daughters could neither read nor write. The mother was better educated ; she could read and write Arabic, and now latterly had made some effort to gain a knowledge of French. Jusuph himself was better taught than most people in the country, yet he
CAfTJLiy LTJCes MIS8105 TO TOE ARABS.
APPENDIX V,
15?* 5:r • ? A P^CK FROM BIR TO EL-DEIK (1836V 3\ :a?Ta3 HiNKY BU>S5E LYNCH. CJB,, KL^.
I^ .- 'n3i.-JLi'>f wrri tfce instructions jnven bv the British •> ^-•-LTufa': • • •'• v;c*l Cli«sceT,that some officers should viat '*»«'«* T^r. ,:-^ir !• GUirc Aid cuiti rating tribes resdding on tbe iT,^"^' :azs< i: "ir^ ^"^^^^ rlTT?r, a^ well as those pasturing in the
2'tih.i^ r S-iifcT- lad -.'^ 2i:r.':c;cate to them our intention
-ii-^^-^ •±«* r.T«r, :: riaktrj arran^ments for depots of
.— .kT,"* a.. 12*: w^iiT^fT^ r^.'»Ti>£rMi5 might be required during
ur >'^-^':T :c r!»f Eiptnres: also to ascertain the strength
.: *i«- ■• w- •■s^ :r-/:es^ iz-i :.:■wrar probable extent we could
:•. '■-i^f 1 "rsrc^f-'T >?e-li:::r wrh them :
*K^^ r H (F'.t;*> ?*:'"nwt^i f r tLi* duty were Henry B. Lynch,
^'*^ ',»?■■' r«i*ki:* li'iiibs XiTT : A. A. Staunton, afterwards
^'w-*^- fc*:>Giar-iur^*c» Kjyil Ar:il!ery : Mr, Elliot, interpreter;
ia»: lj^a:«jL:i: K :*r: Lynch, of the E.LCa's Service, idw
i ■:«i7 ' k*ir.:«r*?e 2i* iern>=5^ It was on the evening of
<-r.'!::":^r \ l>o^^^ trjkT t^e party left the little encamp-
Tt-.-z: s^rsiTr*" :c tr^ r!^: rork of the river a mile below
b^: -. >\^i: WAS 5«ri^ted AS the dttess time to commence the
• .iiT • r^r^ \^ lit el V v firij^.ie the horses, which were to
rr %.-^- : : --. •:c^ :hi? «bo!e Kumrv. The weather during the
•jv "^Ls -it.-eruCT h-o-t* aE»l the cirfits intenselv cold. On
:" ; 5tv* c-i iiT w* r«icii^i Orfah, a pachalic of considerable
: vi^ rrA:i*.'>:'. Hrrt it wis siivisable t.^ make arrangements
K.ac tf A- : â– : i\k:'? :o Rwo^k wj^s one untn^lden. and to the travel-
!C»x-i. ,. •;•::<':" *T, :: «as rh-e jre:*: wish of our party to have&)me
♦r:?v.rr.VA! r^rs^'^c i'^ r.* :he d'>an of tbe Pacha t^ accompanj u< A'i ttwr .vi R*ix*:«w Ar..; to intrvduce us to thi- cultivating rrlx* r'.^t mi^.i tr.en !.Appen to l*e ocoupving the great I^Iaiu or" SinJAT. After much intrigue fn>m tlie numerous hoary*bear\ied a«ivi?<Ts of the Pacha, ve obtained two Govern-
CAPTAIN LYNCH'S MISSION TO THE ARABS. 438
ment cowasses and an old moolah, who undertook to ensure a APPX. fiE^vourable reception for us as far as fiacca. • _.
Having made all the requisite preparations, we started Departure from Orfah at 3 p.m. The resting-place proposed for the 5^^ night was Haran, celebrated in Sacred History as the birth- place of Abraham, and in classic lore renowned for the death of Crassus. It is distant from Orfah eight to ten hours. During our progress across the plain we had an opportunity of wit- nessing the eflfects of the well-judged policy of Reschid Pacha, Policy of the Emir Nizam of the Sultan ; he had compelled many of pacha. the lawless wanderers that infest the frontier of a disputed territory to fix themselves in small villages, and to become cultivators, subject to laws, Ac We skirted the base of a low range of hills composed of impure limestone, called the Mountains of Nimrod, containing within the range a well, revered by the Armenians as that in which Job performed his first ablutions after his afflictions.
It was midnight when we arrived at Hardn. On approaching Arrival at it we passed over the dried beds of many irrigatingcanals, point- Haran. ing out how extensively cultivation was once carried on in this now bumt-up plain. These canals must have formerly been supplied by the streamlets of the El-Belik, a river distant from Haran three or four hours, and which, after a circuitous course, pours its waters into the Euphrates below fiacca. We could discern the dark citadel for some time before we reached The the fosse and strong walls which surround the elevated ground *^^®^- on which the ancient castle stood. Its gloomy walls were composed of large basaltic blocks, and the archways and towers are still perfect. The remains of the ancient city are Ancient easily traceable, stretching under the castle. The buildings r^^i^ins- have been laid out at right-angles ; many shattered portions of pillars lay scattered through the ruins, chiefly composed of marble and Egyptian porphyry. Our approach was announced by the clamorous greeting of numerous troops of dogs, which issued from the small huts here occupied by the poorer classes of cultivating Arabs. The construction of the huts was novel to us, being formed after the fashion of beehives, dome-shaped ; this arises from the deficiency of wood in this district, the roof supporting itself without rafters. The cattle in the morning ''?!,^®^^ assembled round the Well of Abraham even as they did in ham.
F F
434 CAPTAIN LTNCH'S mission to the ARABS.
AVVX, the days of the Patriarch. The numerous troughs were sup-
, ^* , plied with water by the women, which did not fail to recall
the beautiful descriptions of such scenes in Scripture. ThoMeUe- We were waited upon iu the morning by messengers from KuniB. Eiouaga,the powerful sheikh of the Melle-Kurds, who, with his flocks and herds, was consuming the scanty herbage before tbe troops of Reachid Pacha, who wished to scare the vacillating chiefs that occupied the frontier country. We received a press- ing invitation to make his tents our own, but this we declined, as we were fully aware that his allegiance to the Porte was of a very dubious nature. After we left Haran we proceeded to visit the sheikh of the Guiess tribe ; we found his tents occa- pying both banks of the stream of the El-Belik. Sheikh of The Sheikh received us with much cordiality. We expUioed iheGueM ^^ y^^^ ^y^^ nature of our joumey : he had previously heard of our occupation at Bir, and of our intention of navigating the river ; he did not at all relish the idea of our resolution of viat* ing the tribes as far as Deir. He stated that they neitherwooU credit our assertions, nor comprehend our designs ; that thej were lawless, and addicted to plunder a small band such ai our party then consisted of. We made him smile when to said our great Sheikh in England had given his orders, aad that to hear was to obey. As he could not dissuade us froB our purpose, he strongly insisted upon the propriety of our leaving the greater portion of our baggage under his care in case of being assailed and stripped, that we might have some- thing to fall back upon, which proposal appeared unnecesaij to us. After a night^s sojourn in his tents, where we exp^ Anb rienced all the hospitality so liberally given to the Arab dia-
tdHty' nvcter in books of fiction, we took our departure, previooslj presenting our host with a sword, which we hoped would prove a trusty recollection of his English visitors ; this, with a fev accompanying presents to the women, placed us on a firiendlj footing with the encampment. In accordance with our instructions, we visited the tribes that Vint to cultivate around Racca, and from thence by the streams of tbe El-Belik to the great river. W^e were detained some daysoo the left bank of the Euphrates in the vicinity of Bacca, withi very numerous tribe of cultivators, residing during the summer in booths formed of the liquorice plant We were anxious h^
CAPTAIN LYNCH'8 MISSION TO THE ARABS. 435
to form one of our largest depots of charcoal, as the mulberry, APPX. tamarisk, and walnut trees were very abundant. With a desire — / ^ of creating a taste for English manufactures, we presented liberally, to the numerous sheikhs who visited us, Glasgow goods and Shefl&eld wares. We were much gratified to find that we could barter extensively for provisions and fuel.
The petty jealousies and broils which exist between these neighbouring tribes considerably interrupted the advancement of our party ; and after having experienced one of these sallies, to which everyone is exposed who traverses this wild district, from a plundering band of the Aniza, who were engaged in a foray-party in the neighbourhood, we reached Deir.
We were much surprised, on approaching Deir, to find that Position it occupied so strong a position on the banks of the river. It ^ ®"^' is situated on the right bank, on a high promontory. Its walls are embrasured as well as the houses, which renders musketry very decisive. It has been for a long period of time in open rebellion against the Porte, as it is stated that the tax has not been paid since the time of Daoud Pacha. The land-approach to the city is through a winding road, narrow, and protected by the prickly-pear, which would make a very advantageous barrier against an assault of cavalry, the only species of troops of whose attacks they are at all apprehensive. The Sheikh ^^"^ Soliman received us with much kindness : he said he had letters from the English Effendi at Bagdad, Colonel Taylor, giving directions for the preparation of charred coal on an extensive scale ; he seemed fully to understand the advantage tiiat his people would derive from the great demand that would be made for fuel.
We were much surprised to find Jews very numerous here : Remnant we also learnt that others were dwelling with some tribes ^^^ occupying the banks of the Khabour, the scene of Ezekiel's prophecies, as well as at Kahab, the extreme boundary of Solomon^s territories, which is in the neighbourhood of Deir. In conversing with Sheikh Soliman, we found him a shrewd and intelligent man ; he stated that his tribe was very numerous, and that it was frequently engaged with bands of the Aniza, that come scouring the country levying contribu- tions on the cultivators. He said that Ibrahim Pacha, as well as the Porte, had each demanded taxes from him, and as
P F s
43C
CAPTAIK LTNCnS VISSIOX TO TDE .\RABS.
Conim->- Ivir.
AnUle Uad.
A Mene of carnage.
heretofore neither of them were able to enforce it, he hid thus far resolved not to pay either ; but that as a messengtf had lately come down from Ibrahim Pacha, demanding imme- diate payment of the tax, and that a« Ibrahim had the capir bility of enforcing it, he thought he had better proceed with us to Aleppo, and enter into terms with the Pacha. He pn>- pcised taking 200 spearmen with him, as a protection to the whole party against the plundering hordes of the Aniza.
On the morning proposed for our departure, we were ror- pri&ed to see the city in a tumultuous state of commotion — the men bearing arms, and forming themselves into bands, the women singing war-songs. On enquiring, we found thatani- mour had just reached that a band of Aniza had fired one of their dependent villages, and the party then forming were pre- paring to repulse them. We received invitations from eveiy side to join them, to which we acceded, as we were amiooi to witness their rude mode of warfare. We proceeded outrf the city amidst the acclamation of its rabble population, and never did Falstaff lead on a more motley band, armed with spears, curveil scimitars, long rifles, matchlocks, shidda^ and maces ; these they flourished in a most grotesque style. In the midst of their excitement some unhappy fugitive arrived, liearing the intelligence that the troops that had at- tacked the villages were the Egyptian Bedouins of Ibrahim Pacha, who had unexpectedly crossed the desert £roin Damascus, and come down to enforce allegiance. The scene w«as now reversed : our brave men-at-arms returned to their houses, and a deathlike stillness prevailed through the eitj instead of bustle; all were supplicating us to intercede with the Egyptian general. The armed men fell back, aod a long retinue of priests and sheikhs accompanied w t$ suppliants to the burning villages.
After three hours* ride, we arrived at the scene of actioD: it was a hideous carnage. The village was lai^e, fortified by mud walls, and the greater portion of it in flames; * sharp fire was still kept up by the besieged; after a pro- tracted battle, the wretched survivors attempted to escape by the river, the only outlet left to them. Here the General had placed a strong hody of Egyptians, who were engaged in cutting dovbn the fugitives^ as they fell into their
CAPTAIN LYNCH's MISSION TO THE ARABS. 437
bands, without mercy ; neither age nor sex protected them. APPX. The object of this severity was to strike terror, as the Egyp- ^ ^' ^ tian had not troops sufficient to defend himself, were the Arabs to have risen en masse. We were enabled to negotiate Oar ■accessfully for our suppliant friends, and after a night spent ^T^-°* amongst the Egyptian troops we proceeded to Deir, where we were received by long trains of women and children, singing aoDgs to greet us on our return.
As we had accomplished the great object of our Expedition, in having arranged the depots of charcoal on the left bank of the river, and having also cultivated a friendly feeling with the Arabs residing on that side of the Euphrates, as well as having distributed English manufactures amongst them, we were now prepared to follow out the rest of our instructions — ▼iz., to proceed up the right bank, visiting the various tribes, as we had done on the other side of the river. We greatly reduced the number of our difficulties by receiving from the 'Tuakar^y' Egyptian general a^tuskarey,' or order, stating that he would E^^tUin require, by the heads of sheikhs of tribes, that we should general. receive no molestation on our return. This produced a very favourable reception from the cultivators occupying the skirts of the jungle.
In our conversation with the General, when he expressed himself astonished that so small a party should have had the rashness to penetrate so far amongst so wild a race, we mentioned to him the skirmish that we had had at Zelebi (I believe that was the name of the place) ; he replied that he would require the Sheikh's head, and appoint another chief in his place. We left him much pleased with his courteous affability towards us, although we could not approve of the murderous policy which had caused the blood of his victims to flow as water — but the dark parts of the earth are the ' habitations of cruelty.
Our success, in our intercourse with the tribes occupying the right bank of the river, was greater than we had reasons at first to expect. Cotton, indian-corn, and rice are cultivated Producta here. The tribes are numerous, and say that they are able to riremin repel any attacks of the Aniza. They were much pleased with the English manufactures, and we could not but think, during our sojourn among their tents, that the day might not be very
/
438
CAPTAIN LYKCUS MISSION TO THE ARABS.
APPX. V.
Return toBir.
far distant, when, under the protection of England, tb ahnost unknown people might be engaged iu cultivat indigo, coffee, sugar, and silk, as the mulberry-tree is indi nous here.
We returned to our encampment at Bir after a circuit route of 900 miles, having much cause to be thankful for success of our dash into savage life. Already had a rep reached Colonel Chesney that his party had fallen victi to«Arab treachery, and our return was hailed with univei joy. It was sunset when we arrived at the port, and, strai to say, the last notes of the English national air were i first to salute us ou our return.
t
\
r
\
DR. helper's excursion IN THE ARABIAN DESERT. 439
APPENDIX VI.
Extracts from a report of an excursion in
the arabian desert (1836).
BY THE LATE JOHN WILLIAM HELFER, M.D.
On board the 'Euphrates' Steamer, March 20, 1836.
The reasons which induced me to visit these parts have APPX. been — Ist, to examine the scarcely-known Lake El-Malak, . ^- _^ "Which furnishes a great part of Syria with salt; secondly, Reasont to examine the basaltic mountain-chain which forms, in the the^*" *°* middle of the plain, a separate elevated range; and thirdly, Arabian to procure specimens of ornithology, entomology, and botany for the Euphrates Ejppedition.
Leaving the olive and fig gardens, which extend about Country an hour southwards from Aleppo, by degrees all trees cease, ^*â„¢ and not even a bush is to be seen ; we then traversed a gra- Sfiru dually elevated, rocky tract of country-, and descended into a plain which appears to lose itself in the skies. The extreme uniformity of the scene was only varied by three or four of those small, obtuse, conical hills so frequently to be met with in Syria, on whose lowest part, at a distance of six hours from Aleppo, is to be found the salt-lake El-Malak.
It begins about an hour southward from the village of Salt-lak© Sfiri, and at this season is considerably larger than in El-Malak. summer. A small rivulet, which rises about an hour north- ward from Sfiri, flows into the lake, and wanting a sufficient fall forms several lagunes, which, increased by the heavy winter rains, have now covered a great extent of marshy land, the elevated spots of which are filled with JuncacecVy but are Vegeta- entirely destitute of high grass or ArundinaHa^ as are also ^^°' the borders of the lake itself, which presents a most uniform aspect. Several small inletu are seen about half an hour from the shore ; but a close examination of the lake was
440 DR. helper's excursion in the arabun desert.
APrx. impossible, it being inaccessible on account of the mud and ^'^- morass, and this mournful solitude being destitute of any kind of boat or canoe. Water- Great numbers of water-birds frequent the neighbourhood
W»d«- of the lake, but I had never in any place seen them so shv.
On approaching, thousands of ducks and geese flew up with a noise not unlike remote thunder, and then retired into the middle of the lake, where they formed black moveable islands. Ciiinim- ^ cannot determine the circumference of the lake, as it
forence of now exceeds its natural borders perhaps more than half, but I was informed by the Arabs that at the present season it is about a day and a half. The water is somewhat bitter, and contains now but an inconsiderable quantity of salt partiek*?s Procuring the method of procuring which is very simple. The water, Oriffin of evaporated by the summer heat, retires, and in those placi-s UmmIi. the pure salt crystallises; it is from thence collected, and conveyed on camels' backs into the diflFerent parts of Syria. In my opinion a great part of the immense plain generally, Theory of but certainly falsely, called the Arabian Desert, was once ^ covered with sea- water, upon the subsidence of which the lowest parts of the land thus left dry remained for centuries impreg- nated with concentrated salt particles. This is the case with the Lakes EI-Malak,Greboul, and several others still less known. The quantity of water which accumulates during the wint^^r dissolves a portion of the salt, which afterwards in summer evaporates ; this, at least, appears to me the most simple and natural explanation. Plain A beautiful fertile plain extends towards the basaltic moun-
to'tho^^" tain-chain called El-Amri. On leaving Sfiri all cultivation mountainf ceases ; but the numerous ruins of villages prove in how ""^^ much better a state this country was at no very remote Vegeta- period. Vegetation begins to revive ; numerous bulbous ^^^' plants, whose exist enco a few weeks before was not suspected,
raise their heads, but not a single species of the phaneroga- mous class has yet been in bloom. BafMlfie An entire system of basaltic rocks has been raised, no
mountaiDfl. j^^^j^ j^y qj^^ q^ those volcanic eruptions which, from the first
historical times, has been so frequent in Syria. Like all basaltic mountains, it is based on chalk, and forms narrow perpendicular valleys, with cliffs on all sides, and blocks of all
^
>â– â– -
^^1
M
/^ ^
v^
^.. >â–
-fi
'â– ^ \
DB. helper's EXCUfiSION IN THE ARABIAN DESERT. 441
sdzefl scattered in every direction. There is also here an APPX. entire want of water, which produces a barrenness greater ^_ / _^ than I ever witnessed ; not a shrub and, in many places, not ^^*^"*"\^ a blade of grass was to be seen ; it was seldom even that the oountry. black stones were covered with the Lecanora or Parietaria.
A plain, in some places of three hours in breadth, lies on the tops of these mountains ; the sole inhabitants are the great yellow hyena, one of which we wounded, and numbers of wild boars. It seems at fir^t extraordinary that an animal wild which is generally supposed peculiar to large forests and ^a"- morasses, should be found in so barren a country ; but he finds an aliment adapted to him in the bulbous plants, which are perhaps nowhere so abundant as here. The ground in many places is literally ploughed up by these animals in seeking their food, yet we saw very few of them.
I spent the night in a cave to which I was conducted by Carernons my Arab escort, and was surprised to find it so neatly finished. ^'^^»**- On one side was a sitting-place, on another a fireplace with an opening for the smoke ; on the other sides were a kind of sleeping-room, and a place for the animals. The cave is about thirty feet beneath the surface. The following morning I examined the place more minutely, and found that there existed an entire troglodyte village, consisting of about thirty of these caves close together and exactly resembling each other, capable of containing some thousands of men. When WTien they were excavated I really do not know, but am inclined to ««»Tated. ascribe their construction to a very remote period, even as far back as the time of the Grecian colonies in Syria ; but they may have been made use of by the Mahomedans, whose indolence induces them to occupy and enjoy the labours of others.
On making enquiries of the Arabs who accompanied me, if Keportaof there were anything of interest in the neighbourhood, I was ^^^ AraU. informed that at about four hours' distance were the ruins of an ancient town never yet visited by a Frangi, and that in former times they themselves never ventured there, on account of the Aniza ; but that one of them had been there last summer in search of wild potatoes {Lycoperdon ?), and that the wild Arabs had withdrawn far into the interior.
This report excited my interest so much that I resolved to
442 DB. helper's excursion in the ARABIAN DESERT.
APPX. proceed thither, our road lying over that high plain formed . ^'^' ^ by the elevated basaltic mountain-chain. It was very in- Former teresting to observe, in the midst of this desolate country, the ■utoof tS traces of a former high state of cultivation. We could dis- ^^>^^' tinctly see the terraces cut in the mountains, that places scarcely twenty feet wide had been cleared of all stones, and that long walls had been built, with small towers, pillars, and pyramids constructed of the stones cleared from the ground. These increased as we advanced, so that the mountain-chain may in former times have formed a considerable frontier or barrier. ImoMiiM After traversing this high region for two hours, we descended J*^"' again into an immense plain which extended on the other side. One part of the mountain range stretches out into the country in the form of a horseshoe, on the open side of which the Arabs pointed out to me a small hill, under which lay the to>vn, which from their description had a greater circumference than the present Aleppo ; and, indeed, all I saw convinced me I was approaching a place which had been formerly considerable. If^cf of ^^ *^® basaltic mountains I observed a few traces of a an ancient large ancient road ; but on descending into the plain, we found it in good preservation, running in a straight line for at least two miles from the mountains towards the town, and on the side of it the deep bed of an ancient channel. We Where if saw not a drop of water the whole way : from whence in the water fornier times the water flowed it is difficult to determine, but in Syria ancient channels without water are frequently met with. Town of On approaching the spot designated, I saw something like
^^l ruins, and soon afterwards I found myself in the middle of a Ana dia- large town, named by the Arabs Belet-Chan-Asra, perhaps never before visited by a European. It was completely in ruins, but having been in former ages demolished, or rather razed, it remained afterwards untouched ; and thus pos- sesses a higher interest than the old Hierapolis out of which the Turks constructed their Membij, so that Roman ten) plea and Moslem mosques are there seen together. That is not the case here ; the plan of the whole town, and of every single house, can be easily traced ; they are all built
corerad.
"N* "',
â– -«â–
I â– ?'
)VA,"¥..t.».^--Vi.\Jfc.
DR. HSLFEB'S £XGUBSI0N IN THE ARABIAN DESERT. 443
^ of large bajsalt-Btones, put together in a singular manner, AFPX. hewn cuneiform, with the larger edge outside, and the interior ^_ filled with small stones.
The whole town was surrounded by a wall, though several WaUs. buildings . and a considerable temple were situated outside. There were square towers erected at a distance of 50 feet from each other, with a sharp edge projecting outwards. I observed but two gates leading into the town, communicating Gates, with each other by a straight street, more than two miles in length. One gate is still partly visible, constructed of im- mense blocks, and the angles are easily to be distinguished ; the opposite gate has fallen in, but one basrelief still bears the following Greek inscription : —
. . . A^IM€NOCIh ........
. . . TOACTOTI : : OCANH^€IP€^
Greek in-
and on the other piece : scriptions.
TON€YC€B€C . .
€Y€Pr€THNKAINIKHrh . . BACIA€AKYPI€CDYAA^
Only two buildings are at present standing, and they are Two of such a curious form that I cannot imagine for what use ^^^i^^fiP
° Btanaiiig.
they were designed. One is a large vaulted hall, with an arched entrance, and windows on the opposite side ; there are no other apartments near. The other was perhaps a bath, which appears to have been separated into different small apart- ments : an inscription I copied there will perhaps throw some light on the subject. It is a square tablet, fixed in the wall, but it is only partly legible : —
TPikAioinv
Inscription on a tablet.
|
+ A(O^AnA |
TPIKAIOIOY |
|
KAiArmvi |
E |
|
VOIKAINTN |
KA |
|
A |
Near this inscription is a well-preserved sarcophagus. Both A sarco- these buildings are at the south end of the town, near the P'^*6^"- gate, where is also a portico in a good state of preservation, some hundred feet in length, but so filled with sand that I could not proceed many paces.
444
DB. helper's EXCUBSION IN THE ARABIAN DESERT.
APPX. One of those hills peculiar to Syria was within the walls . ^^- ^ at the south-west extremity of the town, and has served as a Castle on castle, or perhaps it was a temple : the walls are particularly strong, and occupied a considerable space ; the front, looking towards the larger part of the town, is partly standing. There was a large square gate, surmounted by an immense basalt block, bearing an inscription, a part of which I was able to copy : —
♦P AIAA
Ycprer
HIKOYCA€C
vnAixoYcnPAi
AY::HC€niCKOnOI OPTIWTOYJC0€IOI
Other in- Wandering across the town, and looking for further ■cnpuons. information, I could gather no more than the following inscriptions : —
{On a basrelief, belongiiig probably to a temple).
ATOCOC TAYI
HTOCHNU)
{On a door of a private house),
I. .. OIKCHAniCAM/ \HKA
IROHeOCK6«OV ;BHe
Rained TilU.
I omit every hypothesis as to what age this certainly once considerable town has belonged, only I feel myself obliged to mention that I observed on two places the Maltese cross, which lets me make the conclusion that this town was in existence in the time of the Crusaders.
Among other ruins which I saw going back another way, I must mention those of a beautiful and grandiose villa situated in the middle of a mournful solitude, amidst the most pic- turesque forms of the mountains, giving a magnificent view on that immense plain. Besides this, I saw the foundations of two large buildings seeming to have been temples.
DB. HELFES'S EXCURSION IN THE ARABIAN DESERT. 445
On enquiring whether they had seen any other ruins in the APPX. ig^hbourhood^ they answered that, at a distance of six hours
the direction of Palmyra (which is only twenty hours from other ?let-Chan-Asra) are ruins to a much larger extent, tiubm.
Though this was a great temptation, yet it was impossible r me to visit the place, being alone and without protection; it the success of the English steam-navigation on the jphrates will soon open the country to the study of every anch of science, and history will particularly find on this ^issic soil an ample field for investigation.
446
OPERATIONS OP THE TRANSPORT.
Af&in at Antioch.
Dwun Hadid.
Marad Piicha.
APPENDIX VII.
REPORT OF THE CIRCUMSTANCES RELATING TO
THE TRANSPORT (1835). BY THE LATE MAJOR^ENERAL J. B. B. ESTCOURT.
June 28. — I set off from Suedia this day, to further the affairs of the Expedition at Antioch. Upon arrival I found that Mr. Eden, with his train of artillery waggons, was near the Gate of St. Paul at Antioch, haying had great difficult? in getting through the town and along the road through the suburbs. Lieutenant Cleaveland I passed, with his artillery waggons, on my way to Antioch.
Finding that the road through the town was so bad, I directed Lieutenant Cleaveland to continue to Guzelburj, and embark his plates there, sending them by water to Djezzer Hadid : the waggons to be crossed over to the oppo- site side, atid drawn unladen to Djezzer Hadid also.
JtUy 4. — All the loads and waggons were now collected at Djezzer Hadid.
I had relied, when I determined upon the water-carriage from Guzelburj to Djezzer Hadid, upon the report of Lieu- tenant Lynch, that the road from thence toChindarees was prac- ticable : before, however, allowing the wagons to proceed, I rode forward to reconnoitre, and found a part between the above places, in my opinion, impracticable for our waggons, laden with heavy weights, and drawn by weak untrained horses. I there- fore directed the iron to be re-embarked and conveyed toMurad Pacha by water, and the waggons to go unloaded by the road, hoping that without loads they would be able to pass. In this determination I was obliged to depend again upoD a report of the road from Murad Pacha to Chindarees, which represented it to be good.
July 7. — The waggons arrived at Murad Pacha, but not the iron plates.
OPERATIONS OF THE TRANSPORT. 447
Jvly 26. — The first caravan of artillery waggons arrived at APPX.
Port William. They had been detained at the Sajur for > ,-1— *
two days for want of men to assist the draft. It had required Port upwards of fifty men to help the horses during the journey. ^ ^*â„¢' An Euze-Bashee accompanied the caravan, and was of great service, but he left at Hal-Oglu ; and he being gone, the sheikhs and men left at the Sajiir refused to pass the fron- tier, declaring (what I do not believe to be the case) that the Sajiir was the boundary of Ibrahim Pacha's territory.
July 28. — Upon my return to Murad Pacha, I found that more iron had arrived from Djezzer Hadid.
August 7. — The waggons had arrived in the interval from my last visit here, and carried off all that they found. There were at this time, therefore, no stores at Murad Pacha.
I had for some days been occupied in repairing different parts of the roads, going to Killis for a cowass, or to Aleppo for an order that the Euze-Bashee should again be sent to me. August 9. — At Antioch.
August 11. — At Miirad Pacha, where I found stores, Murad waggons, arrived at Chindarees with Eden from Port William ; ^^^ha* ten arabas, a long time promised for the service of the Expe- dition, and directed to meet me this day at Chindarees, did not come.
August 13. — At Antioch: more orders given for the arabas of the Pacha.
August 14. — Sent off planking, on horses, from Giizel- buij to Chindarees.
August 26. — Jones (seaman) and Harrison (artilleryman) arrived at Murad Pacha. Six arabas were immediately put in a state of readiness for oxen.
August 30. — Artillery waggons set off again. Eden had arrived, sick, from Port William, and having become much Sickness. worse, could not return with the waggons, but was obliged to have himself conveyed to Antioch by water: he did not after- wards return to this duty. Mr. Fitzjames T had found sick at Guzelburj, where I had gone, hoping that he would be able to succeed Mr. Eden in charge of the waggons.
September 4. — The artillery waggons, which I had accom- panied thus far, crossed the Sajur, and set forward to Port William.
448
APPX. VII.
Boedia deared
Killis.
Causes of delay.
OPEKATIONS OP THE TRANSPORT.
September 9. — Having retumeil to Murad Pacha, and found many waggons loaded and ready, I arranged with the Euze- Bashee at Chindarees to send 60 oxen, all that could be got,bj two days after, that being the earliest time by which they could l)e collected.
September 10. — ^Twenty-one camels loaded and sent off to Birejik ; others directed to go to seek loads at Guzelburj.
September 11. — liieutenants Cleaveland and Cockburn ar- rived at Murad Pacha — the first en route for Port William, the latter to remain. Suedia was now cleared out.
The promised oxen did not come. Three waggons, with 46 oxen, set off in the morning ; 20 more oxen came in late in the evening ; and the artillery waggons arrived from Port William.
September 13. — A bedplate with the 20 oxen set off, but broke down at El-Hamam for the second time, the first time having been between Murad Pacha and El-Hamam.
The artillery waggons, now reduced to three, started again for Port William. At this time many more waggons were laden and ready to start, for which we could not procure oxen.
September 15. — At Killis : procured from the Mutsellim an order to the Buoy Beys to fiunish the oxen required.
Septefmber 17. — At Killis again, to meet the Euze-Badiee at the Mutsellim^ that he might answer to his accoimts.
Now great difficulties started in the way of getting bullocks ; fresh arrangements proposed, all creating fresh delays. A system of reference, at the last moment, from one authority to another, to avoid action. The Mutsellim of Killis re- fused to send oxen from his district into that of Antiocb, in which Murad Pacha stood, but which was now for the first time made known to me. W^ith many guarantees for the transport, as soon as the stores should arrive at Chindarees, the first point of the Killis district, the Mutsellim declared! must insist upon the Mutsellim of Autioch fnmishing oxen to that place. He might have been right in this ; but notice should have been given by the Government to the authorities tofiir- nish the promised means of transport, and to order them, each authority, in his own province; instead of which I was allowed to apply from one authority to the other, until I found out
OPERATIONS OP THE TRANSPORT. 449
whose duty it was to fiirnish what I wanted. In this case, at APPX.
VII.
this late hour, I was engaged with a caravan on its road to Port William ; no other oflScer with me, and therefore unable to leave it. This caravan consisted of the keelsons and other timber. There were waggons waiting for oxen at Murad Pacha, which I hoped the Mutsellim of Killis would have provided ; but upon my application I found myself referred Applica- to Antioch, occasioning a delay during the time I was *j®^*^ necessarily occupied with the keelsons. Then the journey to ritiet. Antioch — then the time required to collect the bullocks ; be- sides which I knew, and represented to the Mutsellim, that the load between Murad Pacha and Chindarees passed over the plain of the Turcomans, who had no oxen accustomed to draught ; and that as I had already endeavoured to procure oxen from them without success, I knew that considerable difficulty and delay would arise. The result bore me out in my expectations. But perhaps the Mutsellim was right in refusing to order oxen from his district to Murad Pacha. He, however, went further, and sent cowasses to the Buoy Beys, directing that they and their people were prohibited from hiring themselves to our service beyond the limits of the district. This fact I learnt afterwards from the Euze- Bashee.
September 22. — Having accompanied the waggons to Return to Beglie, I returned to Antioch, and visited the Mutsellim, -^^^^c^ from whom I received an order to Achmet Bey, the Turco- man chief, to give oxen.
I knew that this order would be ineffectual, and so stated to the Mutsellim ; however, he declared the contrary, and would give no oxen.
September 23. — Sent Mr. Sader with the order to Achmet Bey, and, as I expected, he either could not, or would not, give the oxen.
September 25. — Again applied to the Mutsellim of Assistance Antioch, in person ; and again received another order for g*^®'^' Achmet Bey, with full assurances that he would himself send to the chief, and that oxen would now certainly be furnished.
September 29. — Received an order from Ishmael Bey, through Mr. Werry, to whom I had applied for an order, also
O G
M
450
OPERATIONS OF Til£ TRANSPORT.
APPX. VII.
DifAcaltiM nttcndiDg the trans* l>prt
Visit to Achmet Bey.
Vinit to
Omar
Effendi.
ninesfl of
Captain
Efitoourt.
addressed to Achmet Bey, to the same pmport as that firom Antioch.
Also, from Mr. Werry, a letter for Ibrahim Pacha stating our difficulties. This I forwarded immediately throogh Antioch.
September 30. — Such proved to be the impossibility of ob- taining oxeuy notwithstanding the professions, promises, and orders of the authorities, that I this day found myself obliged to detain the artillery waggons, which yesterday had arri?ed for fresh loads, and to employ the horses in drawing to Chindarees the waggons which were waiting for oxen. Two boilers and one cylinder therefore set off to-day with a laige araba.
October 3. — ^Visited Achmet Bey myself with Mr. Rassam, to urge in person the necessity of complying with the demand for animals. He accordingly promised oxen for the next day.
October 4. — No oxen. Again went to Achmet Bey's tent, but found that he had gone to Antioch, to which place I immediately followed him.
October 5. — Visited Omar Effendi. From him received positive assurances of assistance ; that Achmet Bey would be compelled to provide oxen — if not his own, others; that if his own would not draw, he would be obliged to hire or buy those that wouM, or drag the waggons by men.
October 7. — The two boilers and cylinder, which had been drawn to Chindarees by the Expedition horses, to the delay of the artillery waggons, were furnished with oxen at Chin- darees, and went forward with the Euze-Bashee.
October 15. — At Beglie the Buoy Bey promised me — in compliance with a strong order from Ishmael Bey, of wbicb I was the bearer, and which was one of a long list of the same description of instruments — to give the next day 130 oxen at Tcnekhalid, which should convey the caravans to Foit William. With this assurance, I left the waggons under charge of Mr. Bassam, and retraced my steps to forward other stores.
On the road I was taken ill ; and being relieved from the duty by Lieutenant Lynch, on October 22, at KiUis, I went through Aleppo to Port William.
[
\
.'OPERATIONS OP THET TRANSPORT. 461
I found afterwards that the Buoy Bey of Beglie upon this APPX. occasion, as he had oft;en done before, broke his promise, and > — ,-l«^
neglected the orders he had received. The 130 oxen wfere Qot provided, and the boilers got no farther than the Sajur for a considerable time.
On September 12 the first waggon left Miirad Pacha The first With oxen. From that time till the time I left the duty J^^^ JHo animals could be procured from Murad Pacha to Mond Chindarees. It is worth remarking how readily the strongest Orders were given, and how daringly they were neglected.
J. B. BUCKNALL ESTCOURT.
o o 3
452
CONTIinJATION OF THE TBA5SP0BT.
APPENDIX VIIL
APPX.
vm.
Landing of the •torn at the mouth of the Orontee.
First exa- mination of the Orontes.
REPORT OF THE CIRCUMSTANCES RELATING T(
TRANSPORT (1835-36).
BY THE LATE COMMAN DER R. F. CLEA VELAND. KS
On boaid the ' Enphratee * Stea near Kan Bambnge, April 10
Sir, — In pursuance of your wishes, I send you a r( the proceedings of that part of the transport of the s the Expedition entrusted to my direction, and of the and men placed under my command for its accomplisl
The landing of the stores, coals, &c. commenced o; 6, 1835, and was completed in fourteen working < the boats of H.M.S, * Columbine,* our own, and thos
* George Canning,' on April 28. Considering the f difficulty experienced by the boats in crossing the ba Orontes, the distance of the ships from the shore, and < anchorage, I am of opinion that none but the most efforts and perseverance of the officers and men
* Columbine,' and Expedition, could have accomplish< Fo short a period.
On April 5 I proceeded up the Orontes (by your to ascertain the practicability of using the river as a of transport to Antioch. I was assisted in this service Eden, and a boat under Lieutenant Thompson fr
* Columbine.' Afl-er two days' hard work in tracking only brought us to the Great Kara-Chai River (abo third of the distance to Antioch), I came to the resoh advising the abandonment of the river, from the fo causes : firstly, the loss of time experienced by the I tracking up its rapid and winding course ; second danger in passing up its numerous falls; and, last difficulty of tracking at all, in many places, from th and thickly-wooded banks.
The failure of the river as a means of transport, »
CONTINUATION OF THE TRANSPORT. 453
the determined opposition of Ibrahim Pacha, by the orders ^^^• of Mehemet Ali, prevented the removal of any of the stores
from Suedia until May 28, 1835 — with the exception of a Causes of light caravan to Aleppo in charge of Mr. Eden, which reached removal of Its destination in safety, but without the sanction of the the stows authorities. A second caravan was attempted in charge of Suedia. Mr. Bell, but being passed by Ibrahim Pacha (who landed about a mile and a half from our camp, from the *Nile' ateam- vessel, on May 20), on his road to Antioch, his High- Dess directed the muleteers to turn back immediately, on pain of death in case of disobedience ; and as the remonstrance of Mr. Bell produced no effect, this caravan was obliged to return.
However, the interval between the landing and May 28 was not by any means an idle one with us, although a most serious and injurious loss of time to the interests and plaus of the Expedition, caused entirely by the breach of &ith and opposition of the Egyptian Government ; to overcome which, Measures you, at the commencement, in company with Captain Hen- **^?P^^ ^ derson and the officers of the ^ Columbine,' had an interview consent of with Ibrahim Pacha at Tripoli ; also in every other respect J^® Synan the most strenuous exertions were made to gain the consent ment for of the Syro-Egyptian Government for the transport of the ^® ^"^^ Expedition. To the same purport Captain Estcourt and Dr. Staunton also had an interview with his Highuess at Tripoli ; and on May 23, in company with Mr. Werry, I visited him at Antioch ; but merely extracted from His Highness a pro- mise, that if an order arrived from Mehemet Ali permitting the Expedition to pass through Syria, he would then put all the resources of the country at our command, and that the transport should be quickly finished ; but until an order to this effect did arrive, it was his duty to oppose us in every
way.
As I have already stated, the interval between the landing Time, how and May 28 was made the most of by us. All the stores, between coals, &c. had been laid out and packed for carriage by theknding camels, mules, or waggons; but as the opposition of the 28. Pacha prevented the land-carriage, we again, on April 30, tried the Orontes with a raft, but failed in getting farther than the second fall, from the extreme rapidity of the current.
r
454
CONTINUATION OP THB TRANSPOBT.
APPX. VIII.
Tracking;
Second ezunina- tion of the Orontee.
Aeport ana its conse- quence*.
Mr. Fitf- james's de- parture for Scande- xoon.
lAunch and trial of the •Tigris.'
First mes- sage of Omar Effeodi from the Pacha.
Second message of Omar Eflendi from the Pacha.
which frequently pressed the raft entirely under water. The tracking was very severe work for our men, who were often carried back in five minutes by the current more than they had gained in an hour ; but they bore it with that cheerful- ness and good feeling that has so constantly attended their labours. I was assisted on this occasion by Mr. Charlewocd, and cannot express myself too strongly in return for hit unremitting exertions.
On May 2, by your wishes, I again proceeded up the Orontes with Messrs. Gharlewood and Bell, to examine some of the worst-looking places as to depth of water, in order to determine on the practicability of getting the ^Tigris' up to the weirs near Antioch. Finding everywhere deep water, we came to the conclusion that if the ^Tigris ' would steam nine or ten knots an hour, and steer well, she would ascend the river, assisted by warps over some of the falls. From this report, on May 6, you decided on setting-up the ^ Tigris' ; the same day a slope was cut down to the river, ways laid, and the 'Tigrir* commenced. During the building the carpenters were em- ployed constructing a waggon, the spare hands enlarging the creek near us for the reception of the ^Tigris' when launched.
On May 7, Mr. Fitzjames set off for Scanderoon to join the surveying party under Lieutenant Murphy.
May 23.— Launched the * Tigris ' ; employed till the 29th in getting in her engines and boilers, intending her to cany a load of the ribs, &c of the ' Euphrates ' up the river. Be- tween May 29 and June 3 made several trials with her, but never succeeded in reaching more than five miles up the river, from causes explained in my report of that date.
On May 30, Omar Effendi came with a message from the Pacha, stating that if he (Ibrahim Pacha) did not receive orders from Mehemet Ali within five days from that time, he would take upon himself the responsibility of allowing the Expedition to proceed to Bir, and that he would give the necessary assistance.
June 3. — Omar Effendi again visited us, with a second message from the Pacha to this effect : that Mehemet Ali had sent his Highness positive instructions to allow the Expedition to proceed to Bir, and to render every assistance required of
CONTINUATION OP THE TRANSPORT. 455
him. This information, after the failure of the * Tiinris ' on the APPX. ri?er, decided on her being broken up, and prepared in eight '_-
•actions for land-carriage on waggons made by our car- Breaking penters of the keelsons and other large timber. < Tigris.'^
June 4, — Lieutenant Lynch (who arrived the day before) Lieutenant visited the Pacha, made demands for animals for the trans- }^7J^^\^ port, and men to repair the roads to make them passable for with the our waggons. The Pacha consenting to these demands, Lieu- fo^^iJ"^ tenant Lynch proceeded to superintend the repair of the purpose. load from Antioch to Birejik ; Messrs. Fitzjames, Bell, and Sergeant Quin, the road from Suedia to Antioch. This service was extremely well performed by the latter oflficers, which, Road- firom the indolent habits of the natives, want of proper tools, ™*king. the rough hilly ground, two rivers, and numerous streams (through which our road passed), made it a very arduous task, and one requiring great judgment to avoid the many obstructions presenting themselves. The road was completed about June 15.
On June 8, fifty camels arrived and were loaded with great ^iwt load- difficulty, as the cameleers were very stubborn people, and c^ela. insisted upon selecting their loads, and that only after a great deal of vexatious talking and grumbling.
Hired some native carpenters to assist in making waggons. Carpenters
June 12. — Two hundred bullocks arrived for the waggons, ^''[®^' but after many fruitless attempts to make them draw, we buUockB. were obliged to discharge them.
In consequence of the vague and unsatisfactory manner in Inatten- which the Pacha's orders were carried into execution, from authori?* the unwillingness of the people to work, the stubbornness of to the the cameleers and muleteers, our work commenced very badly, ^^ers'^nd and made it necessary for me again to see the Pacha, and ill conse- state the general inattention to his orders. Accordingly, on ^^®°***' Jane 13 and 14, I had interviews with his Highness, which My inter- were good in their results ; producing an order for the Mut- ^^TpISh* sellim of Antioch and Agha of Suedia to be in constant at- and its re- tendance on the work at our camp ; an Euze-Bashee to assist • the waggons on the road, and as many cowasses as we re- ^^^^ # quired ; also a strong * Boyardhi ' to control the whole. the Mut-
June 16.— The Mutsellim of Antioch, Agha of Suedia, and ^u'^jf several cowasses arrived, bringing with them 146 men to ^^
456
OONTXNUATION OF THE TRANSPORT.
APPX,
vm.
Loading of
forth*
Training of animals.
Fint at- tempt to •enft on a
&ilare.
Mm ool- laetcdto dngtha waggotti.
Halt at
•unaet
Uproar of came- laen.
carry loads to Antioch ; gave them the ribs of the * Euphrates,' and sent them off. Loaded and sent off 60 cameb during the day ; the heaviest load was 600 pounds, but the genenlitj much under.
June 1 8. — Not being able to induce the muleteers to put their animab to our waggons, came to the determinatioa of purchasing horses. At our request the Alutsellim collected all the horses of the district, and, fixing the prices, we bought all those likely to answer for the waggons (none had efer been in harness), also some bullocks.
Commenced training our animals in the waggons; hid much trouble with them at first, as they had never drawn before, but the attempt was altogether encouraging.
June 1 9. — Mr. Fitzjames endeavoured to get on the diving- bell truck, loaded with sheets of iron of the * Euphrates;' but after repeated trials was obliged to desist^ as the oxen would not draw.
The Mutsellim collected 100 men for starting the artilleij waggons in the morning.
June 20, 3 a.m. — I set off in charge of the five nr- tillery waggons, having Mr. Eden with me, and a party of our men under Sergeant Quin as drivers, and 100 countiy- men for the dragropes. As the horses pulled badly, found we had not force enough for the five waggons; left the rear one behind, and put the men and horses on the remaining four. At sunset halted on the top of the first hill, encamped for the night, and paid the people. We only made five niiles this day, having met many obstructions on the road, and the natives working very unwillingly, requiring constant beating and yelling to get them on.
Mr. Fitzjames was employed during the day in bringing up the artillery waggon left behind by us. He had four horses and thirty men to assist with dragropes, and by great exertion made about three miles, bringing up for the night in a cornfield about two miles from us.
June 21. — Ninety-six camels were loaded and sent off to Bir by Mr. Charlewood ; these wild cameleers kept the camp in a complete uproar while loading, by their scrambling for everjrthing light and easy to cany ; but, by dint of perse- verance, were got off in the end with tolerably heavy loads.
CONTINUATION OP THE TRANSPORT. 457
Artificers employed making waggons of all kinds, the spare APPX. hands laying loads for the camels. ^-L^
At 3 A.M. I started with the four artillery waggons, and ^^^j. arrived at the Zigzag Hill about nine o'clock. This hill was Hill of deservedly christened the Hill of DiflBculty, as it always re- * ° ^^' quired all the tackles, anchors, screwjacks, and other pur- diases we could muster, to surmount it ; in after-times with the heavy waggons, it has cost us days of the most inde- scribable exertion and fatigue, frequently not gaining more than a few feet in an hour ; and the constant breaking of our tackling, chains, ropes, &c. in a scorching sun, made it alike trying to the patience and temper, as well as health, of our seamen and soldiers, who, although they suffered much in the latter, I am convinced were never equalled in their fortitude and perseverance by any other set of men.
After an hour's halt, ascended the hill with all our force Slow on one waggon at a time. By 2 p.m. had them all up, but ^g®^iJ^^ found we could not cross the rocky crest just beyond the hill, without an additional force on the ropes. Sent an order to Mr. Fitzjames to bring up his men and horses to our assistance. He was soon with us, and his aid as cheer- fully given as it was useful to us. Got the waggons past this place by sunset, where we halted, encamped for the night, and paid the people, now 160 in number.
•/ttne 22.— Twenty-three camels were loaded, and sent off from the camp by Mr. Charlewood. Artificers employed in making waggons ; spare hands laying loads for the camels.
At daylight I proceeded on with the four waggons, keeping Mr. Fitzjames's men and horses, as we had some very bad road in front. Mr. Fitzjames returned to the camp, thereby incurring your displeasure, which should more properly have £allen on me, as this change of plans was entirely by my directions, but at the same time made with the best intention. About 10 A.M. we reached the Great Kara-Chai. The descent 5®*^ *^«
Great
into the river being very rugged, steep, and winding, we could Kam-Chai only lower down one waggon at a time, with only the shaft- "^®'- horses in, and all the men on the drag-ropes behind ; in lowering the second waggon down, it fetched way, and run- ning into the bank badly wounded one of the shaft-horses. ^|^^ Legger At sunset arrived at the Lesser Kara-Chai, and found the Kaia-Chai.
458
CONTINUATION OF THE TRANSPORT.
APPX. VIII.
Airireat Plain of Antioch.
Bridge of Antioch.
Mr.
Charle- wood set« out with a rmft up th« Orontei.
descent as bad as at tlie other river, but the wi^gons were lowered down without accident. Halted here, encamped for the night) and paid the people.
Mr. Clegg, engineer, passed us to-day on his road to Bir, in charge of 75 camels. Mr. Fitzjames set off and reached the first hill with one waggon ; also Mr. Bassam with 8e?enl small ones.
June 23. — ^At daylight I proceeded on with the four artil- lery waggons, and, after a hard day^s work, at sunset, reached the plain about three miles from Antioch ; encamped for the night, and paid the people. I went down to Suedia to ex- plain what we were doing to you, and to clear up the change of your arrangements made by me on June 21. 1 returnei to the waggons during the night.
Fifty camels and twenty mules were loaded and sent from the camp by Mr. Charlewood. The cameleers were the most troublesome, boisterous set we had had anything to do with yet.
Mr. Fitzjames and Mr. Sassam, having 103 men and 20 bullocks, got their waggons to the top of the Zigzag Hill with great difficulty, lightening the waggons, and carrying portions of the loads up the hill by hand ; nearly killed one of the natives by the falling of a plate of iron.
June 24. — Proceeded on with the waggons at daylight: at 9 A.M. arrived and encamped at the Bridge of Antioch. I went on to examine the road, to the village of Giizelburj, about one hour up the right bank of the Orontes ; found the road ran through the plain a few yards from the bank of the river, and to be very good, with the exception of one place, afterwards repaired by Lieutenant Murphy.
This day Mr. Charlewood made another attempt with a raft of keelsons up the Orontes, having four of our men, and 21 natives : the tracking, as usual, was extremely difficult and dangerous, the raft often capsizing and diving completely under water. It was very hard work for the officer and his men, who, continually wet and burnt up during the day, were cold and comfortless on the banks of the river at night However, by the most praiseworthy perseverance, they reached within a mile of Antioch on June 28, when the natives, tired of their bargain, and disgusted with the bard work, deserted
CONTINDATION OP TEE TRANSPORT. 459
them : and not being able to get any assistance from Antioch, Anii?*
Mr. Cbarlewood and his party retm-ned to Suedia, having , — '
left their raft in charge of a native living on the bank of the river. The raft could not be hauled over some of the falls, and was therefore repeatedly taken to pieces, dragged round by land, and launched again on the upper side of them.
June 25, 6 a.m. — I left Mr. Eden in charge of two waggons at the bridge, to await the arrival of Mr. Fitzjames with his ; I went on with the other two (having increased their loads from Mr. Eden's waggons) to the village of Guzelburj, discharged the loads, and proceeded back towards Suedia. At Guxelbiiij. sunset halted, bivouacked for the night in a cornfield about four miles from Antioch ; found near us Mr. Fitzjames and his waggons. During the night the fieldmen arrived in charge of two artillerymen.
June 26. — At daylight I proceeded on, and reached the Hill of DiflBculty at 3 p.m. Found collected here loads by The Hill Captain Estcourt and Mr. Rassam, in a number of two- of Diffi- wheeled ' arabas,' a species of waggon exceedingly well-adapted for these rough and hilly roads: they resembled the wine- carts of Spain and Portugal, and were drawn by from four to twelve oxen; they usually carried from 10 to 16 cwt., but frequently broke down with these loads.
Leaving Sergeant Quin to load the artillery waggons from the materials on the hill, I proceeded on to the camp to report my arrival to you, and joined the waggons again during the night, ready for starting in the morning.
Mr. Fitzjames reached to-day, with his waggons, within a short distance of Antioch.
JuTie 27.— Having collected 60 natives to man the drag- ropes, at daylight I started with the two artillery waggons for Guzelburj ; arrived there on the morning of June 29 ; unloaded the waggons, and crossed them and horses, in the ferry-boats, to the opposite bank of the river; bivouacked here for the night.
This day Omar EflFendi visited and informed Lieutenant Vimtof Murphy that the Pacha had ordered him to remain at Antioch j^ftendi to until the removal of the stores of the Expedition from Suedia Lieutenant to the next depot was completed, and to give every facility to ^"^ ^' that effect.
460 CONTINUATION OP THE TRANSPORT.
AFPX. * June 30. ^At daylight put the loads brought by the two waggons into six of the river-boats, and ordered them up to
Djezzer Hadid ; this done, cut across the fields with the two
empty waggons into the Djezzer Hadid road. Arrived at tlie
bridge at 1 1 A.M ., and sent the horses back to assist Mr. Eden
in getting up with his two waggons, now joined by those of
Mr. Fitzjames, who arrived at Antioch on the morning of
the 27th.
Mr. Ed6B*s Mr. Eden passed over the bridge and through Antioch,
^J^*^ having about 60 of the townspeople to drag the waggons:
Antioch. they were a very riotous, unruly set ; it was with great diffi-
Repair of culty he got out of the town and suburbs, and finding the
raid from XQ9A Yery bad for some miles beyond, Mr. Fitzjames was set
Paoloc to to work to repair it, by Captain Estcourt's order.
S^^ Mr. Eden arrived at Djezzer Hadid on July 1. Employed
ourselves in getting the waggons over the bridge. During
the day four boats arrived from Guzelburj, reporting the
Gaptaia Other two to be on their way. In the afternoon Captain
Ertcourt* • Estcourt passed bv on his examination of the road from
tion of tb« Djezzer Hadid to Chindarees. On his return, he pronounced
rottdfrom ^^^ p^^^ ^f ^q ^^^ impassable for the loaded waggons,
liadidto and consequently determined on taking up the following Chmda- jjjjg ^f transport — from Guzelburj up the Orontes to the Chanffo of Kara-Su, by which river the boats were to enter the Lake of the line of Agha Denghis, and work their way across to Murad Pacha. *por^ This arrangement was good for many reasons ; it gave us 18 or 20 miles of easy water*carriage in the direction of Bir, and the stores were landed on a good road within six hours of Chindarees ; also a considerable gain in point of time, as the waggons depositing their loads at Guzelburj returned so much the sooner for fresh loads, while the hako (waggoner) kept the waggons supplied from Murad Pacha to Bir — thus making our progress constant along the whole line. I)ep6tat July 2. — Mr. Fitzjames took charge of tlie Giizelburj GQielbag. depot, and received the first division of arabas and small waggons from Suedia.
Between July 2 and July 5, by Captain Estcourt's order, I sent all the loads we had brought to Djezzer Hadid down the river, and so on across the lake to Murad Pacha, to which place Mr. Eden proceeded (by the old road) with
CX)NTINUATION OP THE TRANSPORT. 461
the empty waggons, picked up his loads, and made the best ^^^* of his way to Bir. ^, , 'â– â– .^
I ¥ras ordered back to the camp at Snedia, and on my return, on the night of July 6, found Mr. Charlewood bivouacking on the top of the Zigzag Hill, having arrived there that evening with a section of the ' Tigris ' and flat-boat on wheels. The countrypeople for the dragropes and oxen had Vexations been collected with great diflBculty, and took every opportunity ^' of deserting. The waggons had also broken down repeatedly, causing many vexatious delays.
July 7, 6 A.M. — I arrived at the camp, and reported myself. Found the artificers hard at work making waggons.
July 8. — Sent off three arabas with engine-work, and a caravan to Birejik of 36 mules, 24 carrying the ammunition. Canmm to Struck the store-tent, and sent the observatory and a round •^"^*' tent with the caravan. Mounted the first of the ' Euphrates * boilers, and took it into the road ready for starting.
July 9. — Sent off 20 laden mules to join the others, and a party under Corporal Clark to take charge of the whole. Sent two tents with them. Artificers working hard and in extra hours to complete the ironwork of the waggons before starting for Birejik. Sent carpenters out to repair the broken waggons on the road, and by them some money to Mr. Charlewood, who was still working his way with the section and flat. Three section waggons being completed to- day, mounted the sections, and got them into the road ready for starting.
On July 10 you left for Birejik, giving me instructions as Colonel to the method of carrying on the transport, and which to departure the utmost of my power, and as far as circumstances would for Bire- permit, were put into execution. ^
There remained at the camp at this time the following heavy weights : —
5 Boilers of the * Euphrates/
3 „ „ 'Tigris.' g^^^
14 Half-sections of the * Tigris. Snedia on
2 Cylinders and 2 bedplates of the * Euphrates.* J^^jr 10.
2 ,, „ 'Tigris.'
1 Diving-bell. 1 Flat-boat.
462
C05TIXUATI0N OP THE TRANSPORT:
Tmitport of the hemrr weighU.
Raaof pontoons.
Also about 100 loads of plank and beams. Sent you a van by horses to Guzelburj, 150 camel-loads of coal, and otber things to Bir, and 25 araba^loads of machinery to Guzel- buij.
The heavy weights were transported to Giizelburj on waggoDS made by our carpenters and smiths of country timber, and keelsons, beams, and long timber of our own. Our car- penters and smiths are entitled to the highest credit for their energy and unwearied labours: they had always to work extra hours, and frequently to make journeys from the camp to the road at night for the repair of the broken waggons. They constructed three waggons for the boilers, five section and four timber waggons, three small ones made of gmi- slides, and other small wood ; also 15 two-wheeled arabaa Some sledges were made, but did not answer, excepting that, when empty, they were useful in training our oxen. From Guzelburj the stores were tracked up the Orontes in our two flats, and four other boats ; also a raft of pontoons was used occasionally, and four or fire native boats kept constantly going. From the Orontes they passed into the lake by the Kara-Su, and passed on to Murad Pacha, where they deli- vered their loads.
In officers and men, you left me all our small means could afford — ^indeed, all I asked for and felt entitled to— to accom- plish my task. The officers were Messrs. Charlewood and Fltx- james; Mr. Eassam, interpreter; and about the middle period of the transport^ Dr. Staunton, leaving for Birejik, was relieved by Mr. Ainsworth. The following are the names of the artillerymen, carpenters, seamen, &c. : —
List of men em- ployed on the tranS' port from SucdiA to H&nid Pacha.
|
Artillerymen. |
Seamen. |
Maltese. |
|
Job Yains, Rmith. |
Wm. Wright. |
Michaek |
|
Edw. Harrison, smith. |
Peter Laurie. |
Brifia. |
|
John Waddle. |
John Hunter. |
Swnroff. |
|
John Clark. |
Shiclona |
|
|
Carpenters. |
Fran. Hoffman. |
5 Greeks. |
|
Wm. Frew. |
John Brown. |
|
|
Wm. Jackson. |
D. Sucho. |
|
|
Wm. Watt. |
ThoB. Jones. |
The removal of the stores from Suedia to Guzelburj
CONTINUATION OF THE TRANSPOKT. 463
was ejffected by myself, Mr, Charlewood, and about three- APPX.
fourths of our men— the remainder being with Mr. Fitz- . , '.^
James, receiving the stores at Guzelburj, and taking them across the lake to Murad Pacha; but it frequently hap- pened that our waggons broke down near Antioch, in which case they were left to Mr. Fitzjames to repair and get
on.
Dr. Staunton and Mr. Ainsworth had, in their turn, ample AssiBUwioe
employment, as our sick list generally exceeded half our medical numbers ; but their aid was always kindly given when re- officeâ„¢. quired, and our work often essentially served by their as- sistance.
Mr. Charlewood and myself were alternately laid up by Sickness of hurts for a few days, and of course the work then devolved ®*>™*^*"* on the one. On August 25 Mr. Fitzjames was laid up with a brain-fever from exposure to the sun, and did not recover firom the effects of it until September 30. Mr. Charle- wood then took charge of Guzelburj, and the road and camp fell to me.
Having cleared and given up the camp at Suedia, on Eyncu- September 7 I arrived at Guzelburj with the last of the* camp the heavy weights, two boilers, flat-boat, ^and diving-bell. ^^ Suedia, I here received a letter from you, ordering me to proceed to of the last Bir, immediately ; and on September 9, having made ^^^ all the necessary arrangements with Mr. Charlewood for Gfi^biuj. bringing up three broken waggons and some plank remaining on the road, also the remainder of the men and stores from Guzelburj to Murad Pacha, I proceeded on to Birejik, and My depar- arrived there on September 12. R^[k!
During the transport from Suedia to Giizelburj, the small Transport, arabas were generally taken by the countrypeople for a ^.^ca'- sum of from 180 to 250 piastres, and seldom broke their contracts except by the breaking-down of the waggons ; but the heavy waggons always by our people, and under the su- perintendence of myself or Mr. Charlewood. A division of eight or ten waggons, on an average, took 1 1 days in reach- ing Guzelburj, and usually had from 60 to 150 bullocks, and upwards of that number of men to man the dragropes ; our men guiding the poles, fixing the tackle-chains, ropes, screw- jacks, anchors, and other contrivances, by which they were
M
464
CONTINUATION OP THE TRANSPOBT.
APPX. VIII.
Difflcul- ties of
Ofncsn of the Pacha.
The people of the ooantry.
Obstacles em route.
Efl^tsof the climate on Koro- peani.
Nocesnity of ready cash.
Pajment of the natiTes.
got along, hauled over hills, through swamps, and righted when capsized.
The difficulties we contended with were all but insurmount- able, the first and most vexatious beii^ either from the du- plicity and insincerity in the professions of Ibrahim Pacha, or the almost utter want of attention in the under-authorities to his orders, to facilitate the transport of the Expedition; either of these causes was sufficient, and did produce the most destructive delays in getting the stores from Suedia to Birejik, and subsequently in the descent of the £uphrate& To lessen these ill eflFects (for they were never completely re- moved) we were kept in constant communication with the Pacha,
The Mutsellim of Antioch and Omar Effendi were certainly the two most zealous of the Pacha^s officers in our cause, but even they did not by any means keep pace with our ex- pectations.
Secondly, the countrypeople never worked willingly for us ; all was done by force, and they deserted with their cattle whenever an opportunity offered, leaving us often in the most critical situations.
Thirdly, the steep and rugged roads in many places, the two Kara-Chai rivers, numerous streams and swamps, could only be passed by the waggons by the utmost exertions and most incessant laboiu* of the officers and men who accom- plished it.
Fourthly, the extreme heat of the days was very distress- ing to our people : none escaped sickness, and one poor fellow (James Brown, seaman), when just within sight of Antioch on July 23, with the second division of heavy waggons, was attacked with brain-fever, and died in a few days.
Again, our supply of money was very irregular, causing frequent delays, as nothing could be done except by payment on the spot ; the Syrian people, 2^ far as we were concerned with them, from the highest to the lowest, being * completely destitute of all principle of honour or good faith in any of their dealings.'
The country people employed by us were paid, each man, three piastres a day, a sheikh ten, a cowass or inferior oflficer
THE TKANSPORT COMPLETED TO MUfiAD PACHA. 465
from eight to twelve ; but for good services they frequently ^f{^ received presents of various kinds. r-^
Lastly, the continual breaking-down of our waggons brought us the most indescribable troubles and disappoint- ments.
This concludes the report of the transport, from Guzel- C«iicliwion burj to Murad Pacha, that came under my superintend- part of the ence ; and as I have been favoured by your approbation of transport, my exertions, I naturally feel doubly indebted to those officers and men, who, placed under me, have on all occasions >o zealously and successfully devoted their whole energies and efforts to its accomplishment.
I have the honour to be.
Your obedient humble servant, R. T. CLEAVELAND, Lieutenant R.N.
Colonel Chesney, R.A., Commander of the Expedition.
H H
466 8UMMABT OF CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD'S JOURNAL
APPENDIX IX.
SUMMARY OF JOURNAL (1835), BY ACTING LIEUT. (NOW CAPTAIN) E. P. CHARLEWOOD, R.N.
APPX. April 27, 1835. — At last the 'George Canniag' transpoi
-_ at anchor off the mouth of the Orontes, was cleared oti
Providence had so far been favourable to our enterpria
|i for, in spite of the dangerous surf and shallow bar across tl
1 mouth of the river, all our stores were safely landed, and n
I a life lost in this hazardous work. Possibly years hence \
may live to see a harbour constructed at the entrance of tt river. Scene in Our camp was indeed a busy scene. A number of t
**"P' men were selecting and laying out camel loads; but i
principal work was the preparation for the building of tl smaller steamer (the 'Tigris'), in consequence of the refbs of Ibrahim Pacha to allow us to proceed into the ioteii towards the Euphrates river. Our Colonel was determiiM to show that we were not to be stopped ; he proposed, then fore, to put the * Tigris ' together, with the view of convej ij ing our stores up the Orontes to Antiocb, or beyond it
â– practicable.
April 28. — We had not yet finished with the surf oi
the bar of the river. Our consort, H. M. S. * Columbinej
3 had sent her launch for water ; the boat was returning heavil]
j Dangon of laden at 4 p.m., through this dangerous surf, and we oi
:{ shore were watching her closely. As she approached tlN
surf, some heavy seas rolled into her, and in a short time ii was evident she would be wrecked. Boats were iustantl] sent to the rescue, and the whole crew safely brought oi shore. My boat being the smallest was soon swamped, ant the crew sent sprawling into the surf — fortunately, howeTer within reach of the launch, which was then grounded o\ the bar.
SUMBIARY OP CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD'S JOURNAL. 467
April 29. — The Colonel having ordered Cleaveland and APPX. myself to survey the Orontes, with the view of ascertaining ^ ^ _- how far it was navigable for the * Tigris ' steamer, we pre- Prepare a pared a raft, and started at 10 a.m. with fifteen men, two "*^- boats, and ten days' provisions.
The Orontes winds through a level plain for about 4^ miles. It then enters a gorge in the mountains, and becomes a series of rapids until it reaches Antioch, a distance of about 35 miles by the windings of the river. The entrance of this gorge is marked by a perpendicular red-coloured cliflF, about 100 feet high. We completed our survey to this point satis- Survey of fiictorily, finding the river very rapid — four miles an hour — orontlw?' and an average depth of nine feet. Our raft proved a seri- ous impediment, the boats being unable to tow it after the first two miles ; and tracking became exceedingly difficult, owing to the brushwood growing upon the banks. After con- siderable toil, we succeeded in advancing a quarter of a mile up the gorge beyond the red cliff; here we found the river narrowed to about thirty feet, and rushing down between the rocks in a perfect torrent, rendering it quite impracticable for the raft. Cleaveland therefore decided to return at once to the camp, and, if necessary, proceed with the survey with- [>ut the raft or boats.
The Colonel being anxious to obtain a further survey of the river, and especially with the view of ascertaining whether there was a sufficient depth of water in this torrent for the steamer, we (Cleaveland and myself) started early Soundbg in the morning of May 2, with the necessary lead-lines, tiie torrent. Skc., for sounding the torrent. On reaching the surface of bhe rock on the left bank of the river, and overhanging the :»taract, we set to work with our lead-lines, &c., but in vain ; the current was too rapid for the lead to reach the bottom. Wliat was to be done ? To return to the camp and report a Eailure to the Colonel, who allowed nothing to be impossible, «ras quite out of the question. We therefore decided to take it in turns to jump in I and if the bottom could not be reached with our feet, it would be a clear proof there was sufficient water for the steamer. Accordingly, Cleaveland, cie»ve- vho was my senior officer, and claimed his right to take the land's first irst leap, stripped off his clothes, and, a long and light rope ®*^'
B H 2
t
t
I
^
4
1
ft
I
I I
I
458 SUMMARY OF C.UTAIX CHARLEWOOD'S JOUBNAL
haTing been secured round his waist, be leaped in
torrent, rusbing past some twelve feet below where ^
standing. By keeping bis arms stretched out borizontc
bead did not go under water as he was dasbeti down tl
I * Fortunately, also, I veered out the rope, so as not to ch
A j speed with which he shot past me, so that, about fort;
-. , lower down, he was tossed into an eddy-current clos
sandbank, where he safely landed. My tiu-n now \ and, having made every preparation, I leaped in, hold
t arms up in a line with my body. I imagine that
1 UBdcr tlM means I must have gone down some feet under water.
. |1 J water. sciousness must then Lave almost entirely left me.
aware that I was under the water, and admiring i J rushed pa.st sparkling like diamonds. Tliis sensation
i^ was more one of pleasure than of pain, is all I can i
ber, until I awoke to the fact that I was lying half out water, with Cleaveland standing over me in ecstacies ; K<«ri7 ing I was not drowned. It appeared that when I wen ^'^'*^'"^ water, Cleaveland became alarmed, and tried to pull as I passed down the torrent; but the more he pull deeper I seemed to be forced down, and rapidly shot the stream, first to one side and then to the other, tl all the time running out of his hands at an alarmii At last, either from its breaking or the end passing his hands, I came to the surface, and was fortunate upon the bank where I found myself, Cleaveland j » hurried down to prevent my floating oflF again.
I Wliether I had felt all that a drowning man would
it is impossible to say; my impression is, that th< rushing past had stunned me ; at all events, I was soo recovered, and neither Cleaveland nor I felt any bad from our novel and rash method of sounding a torren returned to the camp on May 4, satisfied that the i could be of no essential service in transporting store than four miles up the Orontes.
The following day (May 5), news having arrived tha
Hortile him Pacha had taken a decidedly hostile step by tumir
fbraWm ^^ camels and 50 muJes, hired by our agent in Ale
Fkcba. convey part of our stores to the Euphrates, and (
Chesney not being a man to stick at trifles, order
SUMMARY OP CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD'S JOURNAL. 469
issued by him to construct the * Tigris ' steamer, with the APPX, ostensible view of transporting our stores by the Orontes . ^' _. riyer as far inland as practicable, but principally I suspect to impress the Pacha with the fact that, having landed here, nothing should deter us from carrying out the object we had in view.
From this date we commenced our operations, first con- A slip- sferucting a slipway for the * Tigris,' and collecting together ^ f^' Iter iron ribs and side-plates. By 6 p.m. the bottom-plates were all in their places ready to be riveted, and for many days afterwards the rivet-hammers were at work from day- light to dusk.
Various attempts had been made to obtain baggage animals, but in each case Ibrahim Pacha's officers had persisted in preventing their proceeding to our camp. On May 22 the * Tigris,' or rather her iron shell, was pronounced fit to swim, and she was successfully launched into the river in the pre- I^aimch Bence of a large concourse of Syrians and Arabs, whose ex- « Tigris/ clamations of ' Mashallah ! ' at seeing iron float on water, were very amusing. Mrs. Barker, the wife of Mr. Barker, late- Consul-Gen eral at Alexandria, christened the vessel with & bottle of Lebanon wine.
Tlie engines were now fitted in her, and by May 29 she nras ready for a triaUtrip. The less said about these trial- Hertrial- ^rips the better, for they were far from promising, either ^'^' with, reference to speed or steerage; but they nevertheless [)roduced, to the fullest extent, all the good we hoped for. [brabim Pacha evidently had at last discovered we were not :o be stopped, and on May 30 — the day after our first trial- xip — changed his tactics, and sent us an intimation to the Change in jffect that he would not only allow us to proceed, but pro- J^Jfj^^"*'* tnised to give us every possible assistance.
The greatest activity prevailed in our camp upon the Artivlty in MTival of this news. The 'Tigris' was gradually hauled up ^"^P* ind taken to pieces in sections, comnjeucing from the bow. Carpenters constructed flat platforms on strong axles and wheels for the conveyance of the boilers, diving-bell, &c., each of these articles weighing between 2| and 4 tons.
The bedplates of the engines of both steamers were also fitted with axles and wheels for travelling, and indeed all
Thabai
Tw.> Turku drawn ing.
SDMMABY OF CAPTAIN CHABLSVOOD'S
Borte of ingenious cootrivances were hit upon, flat-boate, built to convey our boilers through bar of the Orontes, were fitted like waggon addition of large masts and sails to help th the wind was fiiir. Horses and oxen were rather pretended to be broken in — by a koowi man, who at last was punished so severely which rushed at him and damaged his ribs, I duuald was obliged to abandon his breakii dangerous occupation.
I must here mention that for a considei time a large party had been occupied const over the very difficult country between the cai a distance by road of about 23 miles ; th the country to the Euphrates (altogether a from the camp to Birejik) being compar travel over. Up to this time all were in gt withstanding the weather, which had been generally very hot with heavy thunderEtorai rain pouring thrpugh our tents and Boakin clothing.
Od June 4 the bar of the Orontes was a< anxiety. Two Turks attempted to cross it ii aud were instantly capsized in the surf. Se case was hopeless, unless an attempt was mad Noffman (an able seaman) and I obtained s proceeded to the nearest point of dry laud, t out to the drowning men, who were fast dri iu the current of the river ; fortunately we re fore they had drifted beyond the full tether ( we were all pulled on shore together. I do tlior the gratitude of a Turk is proverbial, but these fellows, on being safely landed, took t wrung them, put them on again, and then wai uttering one word !
l.'p to June 24, 490 camels and about 105 sent off to Port William on the Euphrates, small stores. Some 200 men hod also carri various pieces of angle iron which could not 1 the backs of ouimals over the mountainous
SUMMABT OF CAPTAir^ CHARLEWOOD's JOURNAL. 471
s was as nothing compared to the undertaking then before APFX. —namely, the transport of the heavy weights. Four ^ , — '
lllery waggons, laden with sections of the ^Tigris,' and kwn by horses purchased by the Expedition, had been sent ay ; the horses were, however, so imperfectly broken in for ftwing, that the prospect of the waggons making a mode- sty quick journey was not very promising.
Finding that the long wooden keelsons of the two steamers The keel- iild not be conveyed past the intricate windings of the road toStecL tween our camp and Antioch, the Colonel decided on iking the attempt to track them up the river to Antioch, d entrusted this duty to me. Accordingly I started with iir of the longest pieces of keelsons, four English sailors, enty-one natives, and a boat
The river, after the first 4^ miles, being one series of pids over rocks, with occasional weirs built right across, IT labours were not only severe but hazardous in the ex- eme; each piece of timber had to be dragged up these pids separately. By June 28 we succeeded in arriving within one mile
Antioch, but in a pitiable plight — two of our English Ourpiti- ilors, as well as myself, having lost our shoes in the water, * ®^^ ^ isides other portions of our clothing, from the repeated jsetting of the keelsons when secured together as a raft, at the prospect of success, and the consequent disappoint- ent of every dismal expectation of some evil prophets lefb . the camp, quite rewarded us for our exertions and mis- ips. However, a sad blow to our hopes occurred this fore- >on«
We had arrived at a bend of the river where the water 3came a shallow torrent for a considerable distance, quite ^passable for my keelsons. It was therefore decided to >nvey them overland to the next bend of the river. The 3at was accordingly at once sent across with a few of our ten, but on our return we found that all the rascals left Desertion shind had deserted. This obliged us to leave the keelsons °^ ^^^^ roperly secured and return to the camp. A few days after- ards it fell to the lot of Mr. Fitzjames to complete the ansport of my late charge to Antioch.
Arriving at the camp on June 29, I found consider-
472 SUHMASY OF CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD's JOURNAL.
APPX. ^^^^^ progress had been made in despatching the light articli ^^ by camels and mules ; preparations were also going forwai Arrinlat '^^ ^^® serious portion of the transport. Several of th P^. moderately heavy loads, such as the ^ Tigris ' sections, a fla<
boat on wheels, &c., had already started, but the heavy boiler and diving-bell still remained. Messengers with brokei axles, wheels, &c., were constantly arriving from the waggon- trains already on the road, and many waggons were tempo- rarily abandoned from the desertion of the natives with their oxen.
Up to July 4, I had been very busy sending off light waggons, and helping others on the road out of their diffi- culties— also getting them up the first and most diflScult hill, which rises abruptly from the plain of Suedia, about four miles from the camp. This hill, celebrated in the annals of the Expedition on account of the many hard days' work it afforded, is the worst on the whole line to Antioch, and was The Hill of christened the * Hill of DiflSculty,' or * Zigzag HilV our ^^***^^* engineers having made a rough and scarcely practicable zig- sag road up it. All our heavy weights had at first to be dragged up this hill with tackles attached to anchors sunk into the earth at each turning of the road, and screwjacb applied at the rear of the waggons. Ultimately, having broken several anchore, we adopted the plan of dismounting the boiler from its waggon, and then parbuckling it up the hill — in other words, we fairly rolled it over and over until it arrived at the summit. An advance of 100 jsida was in 11 some cases a g^ood day's work.
A tmin of A summary of my journal when in charge of one train ^"^S**"** of waggons may give a tolerable idea of the difficulties en- countered. The train consisted of two boilers, weighing ^ and 4 tons respectively, each mounted on a low four-wheeled I truck — an engine bedplate weighing 2^ tons, fitted with axles
and wheels, and a flat-boat, also fitted with wheels.
July 5. — We expected a large muster of men and oxen at daylight this morning to convey this train, but only 25 men and 22 oxen arriving, we started with the bedplate alone, but liad not procetKied a quarter of a mile when the guiding-pole broke; this was repaired, and in an hour's time we were off again, arriving at dusk at the * Hill of Difficulty,
i\
SUMMABT OP CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD'S JOURNAL. 473
ftfter sundry disasters, and sleeping by the side of the bed- APPX.
plate. ^^^L^
At daylight we found that the whole of the men had Desertion deserted with their oxen. We therefore returned to the camp, ^jt'jf^iJ^ where the flat-boat was ready for a start, eight of our horses oxen. liaTing been attached to it,and twenty Syrians to man the drag- xopes. A large mast was fitted, and the sail hoisted to a fair and fresh wind. Away we went in gallant style, the men and horses having little to do excepting to direct the course by the guiding-pole. All went well upon the smooth plain, but upon entering a narrow lane three miles from the camp a large stone caught one of the fore wheels, and broke off die axle and guiding-pole. It was now too late for any fiirther work ; all therefore returned to the camp ready for the boilers, having first tilted the boat over into a ditch to dear the road.
Through the great exertions of our Colonel and the autho- rities of Antioch, a large collection of Syrians with their oxen was made : 70 oxen and 80 dragropemen were now attached Dragging to the largest boiler and waggon, and a few less to the ^^^il®"*- smaller boiler. We started in the afternoon, and at dusk arrived close to the flat-boat, which was now in a fit state to IHTOceed on its journey. Here we bivouacked for the night. Four cowasses had been sent from Antioch to look after the men and prevent their running away ; we found tbem par- ticularly useful in this respect.
At daylight an additional supply of oxen and men arrived for the flat-boat. All three waggons, therefore, started to- gether, but the road was so loose and uneven that our pro- gress was not very satisfactory ; however, at sunset we found ourselves at the foot of the Zigzag Hill. The jackals seemed Jackal?, to consider us as intniders here during the night, for they howled incessantly, and one managed to get on the top of one of the boilers and steal a piece of meat, although men were lying down in all directions about it. One of the ' Columbine's ' oflBcers, who stayed all night with us at the camp, was so alarmed at the howling jackals, that he sat up with his pis- tols in hand, and could not be induced to sleep on shore again.
When the light had again appeared, we set to work with
r
474
SCMUABT OP CAPTAIN CHARLBWOOD S JODBSJ
Dnggiu 1 tbr nnaUsr .
Ai'PX. the bedplate, and in two houn succeeded in dmggii ^ , main force to the top of the hill, and by noon the ma placed by the aide of the bedplate, having capei rolled over the side of the road in consequence of ot forewheela getting jammed under the bottom of t Fortonalely, it bad only a moderate fall of about ten The smaller boiler waa now taken in hand ; 1 were attached to it, and all the men manned tl ropes. The signal was given, and a meh made w: ' gixtdwill that the boiler ran nearly up to the first tu the zigzag road ; here, however, it stuck, and could moved forward inch by inch with tackles attached to in front, and Ecrewjacks applied to the rear of the ' By sunset we had only advanced to the first tumin; road, about 100 yards from the foot of the hill ; heri tunately, the guiding-pole was broken, and we were until it wna dark in repairing it. No time was los morning, so that by noon we felt great pride in behol first boiler on the summit of the Hill of Difficulty side of its smaller brothers, — the bedplate and flat-h And now for the laigest boiler I A few men a had stolen away during the night; still, from the ei we had gained with the first boiler, we did not About 90 oxen were yoked to it, and, in addidoi were brought down to each side of the wagg fastened to heavy anchors sunk iuto the earth at turning of the road. A general rush was then ql away the boiler went right up to the turning of without one stop ; the men became frantic with theii screeching and yelling with excitement. It was in to persuade them to stop at the turning ; on they woi and round the pole and fore asletree would torn to next length of the zigzag road. The strain was far b the pole broke, and the boiler toppled over and fell ' waggon on its aide, and partly overhanging the pn Hamllotti side of the road. By the greatest mercy no one v ""r™- although one or two escapes were marvellous. No progress could be made this day ; but before lying rest the boiler was remounted, and the shortened po put iu its place.
fl
SUMMARY OF CAPTAIN CHAKLEWOOD'S JOURNAL. 475
During this day a native had brought me a beautiful APPX. water-melon^ upon which I contemplated breakfasting the ^^' _- following morning. Accordingly, after picketing my horse Adventures dofie to me, I put my melon into a carpetbag to make a ^^J* water- pillow, and being very tired, soon fell sound asleep. When I awoke in the morning I found, to my surprise, that my head was lying exceedingly low, the carpetbag in fact being quite empty — ^the melon had vanished! No human being was stirring, and my horse was standing with his head OTer me, looking so sleepy and so innocent, that I should never have discovered the thief, had not one single melon- seed still remained on the upper part of his lower lip !
I may here remark, that during the whole of my hard work, nothing proved to be so refreshing in the evening as tea. Making An old preserved meat-tin served as my kettle, teapot, and ^®** cup. When each day's work was over a fire was lighted, and the tin full of water placed on it. When the water boiled, the tea, sugar, and milk — when obtainable — were introduced. No king could relish his supper more than I did this decoc- tion, accompanied by a chicken and some wheaten bread.
And now for the boiler. Notwithstanding the sharp look- The boiler out kept by the cowasses, the men and oxen had gradually *8a»n. slipped away during the nights, and when prepared to start once more, we found our force reduced to 58 oxen and as many men. In vain we toiled on ; every inch of ground in advance was obtained by screwjacks applied to the rear of the waggon, and by noon we had only advanced some 30 feet I Accordingly, after dinner it was resolved to try a new method. The boiler was taken oflf the w^gon, and then turned over and over as it was rolled up the hill. This proved to be by far the most rapid way of progress, for by More rapid eleven o'clock the following day all four waggons were at the progress. summit of the hill, the boilers mounted and ready to proceed ; but alas I our men and oxen had melted away ; sufficient only were left for the bedplate and flat-boat, which were at once sent on, and in about five days' time, after various breaks- Arrival at down, arrived at Antioch. Antioch.
The two boilers, however, had to wait several days, and upon examination it was found that the roads leading down to two mountain torrents on our route were too narrow for
Z'- <
476
SUmiAST OF CAPTAIN CHABLEWOOD S J0URKA1
1
fl
)i i
I
I
r
f 1
APPX. IX.
^ â– "
Widening therond.
KntiY«
BKbodof
bleeding.
DfAthfrom 8iiD8troke.
An nnez-
pected
difficulty.
the boiler-waggons to pass. My time was therefore oc in widening the road ¥rith the few Syrians that could lected.
Nothing of any moment occurred during this wo cepting a carious plan adopted to bleed one of the i whose head had become affected by the intense I the sun. The patient was seated upon a stone, small cord passed round his neck, each end beinj by a person on either side. The doctor — who ev was a barber by profession — now produced a razo shaved clean a small spot upon each temple. This accomplished, the signal was given to haul upon th< the natural consequence of which was, our patient became purple, with his eyes starting out of his hea di)ctor now placed his razor's edge upon the right where it had been shaved, and then, with a slight fli] finger upon the back of the razor, skilfully cut a smal The same operation was repeated on the left temple, i two small streams of blood spouted out to some dists eitlier side, the doctor occasionally examining its qua catching a little on a loose stone. At last he gave th< to slacken the cord, when the fountains instantly stopp the patient was helped to his home. Whether this letting extraordinary was attended with any good i never heard, neither did I ever see the poor fellow ag
One of our own seamen also received a sunstroke time, aud appeared like a drunken man ; he was carri Antioch, and died in a few da}'s.
The road at length was widened, and oxen and n sembled for the two boilers on waggons left on the i of the Zigzag Hill, so on we proceeded in good spirit made an excellent forenoon's work until just before < time, when, in descending a narrow defile, the fore-ti the foremost and largest boiler- waggon caught agaii side of a rock, and in an instant the pole, alrea»ly di at the Zigzag Hill, was hopelessly smashed, and the waggon in the rear could not possibly pass. Here was a difficulty I Nothing in the shape of a heavy beam was apparently nearer to us than the camp, some eigh distant^ Already I noticed pleasure in the countenai
SUMMARY OF CAPTAIN CHARLE WOOD'S JOURNAL. 477
the men at the prospect of being allowed to return to their APPX. liomes. In a downcast mood, I told them to sit down and > r-^ — '
«at their dinners, and then strolled to a small hovel or house a short way oflf (the only one within a range of some miles), to obtain some shelter from the burning heat of the Sun. The family were squatting round their dish of pilau, to which I was invited. I then stretched myself out upon my back, to Taminate upon my hard fate, and decide the diflScult question — what is next to be done ?
This question was solved in a moment, for upon looking How the upwards my eyes rested upon a great beam which stretched ^*^q*^^^. along the length of the house, and, in fact, supported the come. whole roof. In an instant I was at my host's side, and, to his amazement, offering to buy his house at a handsome price, provided he and his family would clear out instanter. The sight of the gold * gazis ' overcame all scruples : by the time my men had dined, the house was emptied, and half a dozen sailors were to be seen tearing oflF the roof and rolling down the beam. In short., the new pole was fitted, and the waggons again on the move, within an hour after dinner- time. The pole was nearly double the size of the broken one, and I may here add that, although the poles of every other waggon were repeatedly broken on their journeys, this one arrived triumphantly at Port William, on the Euphrates, as sound as when my sailors fitted it.
To describe a greater portion of the remainder of the portage of these two boilers to Antioch would be a repetition of much the same disasters — such as the breakage of axles, Digastew bolts, guiding-poles, &c. The roads constructed down to the ?° ^^^
JOUTDGy.
two mountain-torrents (the two Kara-Chais) were highly dan- gerous, and in easing one of the boilers down to the bed of the first torrent (at this time nearly dry), the men holding back by the dragropes could not check its speed suflSciently ; consequently one of the fore-trucks came against a large boulder, broke the fan-axle, and maimed the legs of the three nearest oxen. In each case where an iron axle was broken, a whole day at least was necessarily lost in sending it to the camp for repair.
At length, during the forenoon of August 5, we arrived opposite to the gates of Antioch ; and as the men were
478
APPX.
SUMMABT OP CAPTAIS CIUHLEWOODS JOCBNA:
heartily tired of their work, and had become very 1.
halted close to the bridge across the Orontea and
Aninl «t that I might avail myself of the opportuoitj to obt
*"'*'''*â– Bervicea of a cowass from the Governor, who bad b
trcrtiely attentive to all our requisitions. Accoi
shortly after we bad again started for Guzelbuij, a
about two miles beyond Antiocb, where all the heavy
were transported by boats through the Lake of Antio
up a small river to a place called Miirad Pacha, ;
Dificently-dressed cowass came strutting after ua, an(
equally magnificent voice ordered the cavalcade to s
felt charmed ' — now at last we had a man who would k
lazy Syrians to their work. We halted in silent expi
of the harangue it was supposed he was about to
Judge my surprise when, after the last boUer-wagg
Ab IB- stopped, he coolly mounted it, seated himself in a com
pfitnt place, and then, with a majestic wave of the hand, dire
men to proceed ! This was too much I — it evidently
turn to act. Btiming with anger, I again direc
waggons to stop, and summoned the cowass to di
upon which he condescendiogly ordered me away: in
His instant he was rolling in the dust at the foot of the
fumtnarj amidst the fiantic cheers of the waggon-men. Th<
p<">"*' . . . . 1 . , - . ,
mrau got up m a great passion, put his hand on his pistol,
sufficient presence of mind left to remember that * di
is the better part of valour;' he therefore contented
with showing his contempt for me by sundry bcoi>
turned on his heel and marched back to Antioch am
jeers of the w(^gon-men, who, let me add, worked
iugly well for the rest of the afternoon, evident^
reward for my having bumbled one of their hated
cowasses.
GuK-lbwj. ^^ * arrived at Guzelburj the same afternoon, an
this lime there is a note in my journal to the eff
Captain Kstcotirt, Lieutenant Cleavelnnd, and mysi
the only ejecutive officers then fit for duty. Colonel '
Illnnta nf '''*"' ^'^" alarmingly ill, so much so indeed that the
th.' iViu- officer in conininnd had notified tu us that the CoIoik
"" " was hopeless. To-day, however, our spirits were che
the newM of his convalescence. His kindness and
I//
SUMMART OF CAPTAIN CHARLEWOOD'S JOURNAL. 479
selectiDg oflBcers for special duties, then trusting them to appx. carry out his wishes, and when successful (as was almost ^ ^- , invariably the case) giving them the fullest credit, had endeared him to all who really had at heart the desire to carry through this arduous transport.
But to return to this miserable little village of Guzel- buij, with its hovels plastered with buCFalo dung, and swarming with vermin. Many pleasing recollections are RecoUec- brooght to my mind with reference to it. It was the head- Q-°^?^ • quarters of my dear friend and brother-officer, Fitzjames, who superintended the transport of the stores from thence to Murad Pacha.
Upon one occasion when I again arrived with some wag- gons of boilers, I found everything at a standstill ; all the boatmen had left, and Fitzjames was lying in his tent, niness of apparently insensible with a raging fever, his tongue black ^gitqameB. and swollen, with one large blood-red crack across it, his Maltese servant being the only person with him. A doctor was at once sent for from the hospital which had been established in Antioch. Upon his arrival he shook his head Tcry sagely, pronounced the case all but hopeless, and re- quested the immediate removal of the patient to the hospital. To our utter astonishment, Fitzjames upon this opened his eyes, shook his head, and muttered, * I will die here.' The worthy doctor left in disgust; and as it was necessary for me now to remain at Guzelburj to despatch the heavy weights by boats, I madp my patient as comfortable as possible, and during every spare moment employed myself dropping water gently upon his poor tongue. He took little or no medicine, but the water continually moistening the tongue evidently had a surprising eCFect.
How Fitzjames gradually improved, and at last was able to His sit upon my horse, supported by me whilst walking by his ^^^^ side : — how upon one of these occasions he placed his dear lescence. kind hand on my head, and with the tears starting from his eyes exclaimed, * Had you not backed me up, and refused to let the doctor take me to that hospital, I should now be dead : I shall never forget your kindness to me ! ' — how I am certain he never did forget it to the date of his death, when Captain of H.M.S. ' Erebus,' in Sir John Franklin's ill-fated
p
BUIUIABT OP CAPTAIN CHABLEWOOD S JOT
Polar Eipeditioa : — but how in our case he was lived to be the cheerful, jovial spirit of the Euph ditioQ, to help us on when sickness and wearines lis all : — these tire indeed reminiscences most plea to dwell upon, but perhaps uninteresting to the geo Moreover, it is evident my chapter, written with . giving some idea of the labour and difficulties wit had to contend in transporting our two steamei Mediterranean to the River Euphrates, and mon between Suedia and Antioch, is now epun out tc extent. Here therefore I must end.
MIL FITZJAM£S'S BEPORT. 481
APPENDIX X.
BEPORT BY THE IJiTE MR. (AFTERWARDS CAPTAIN) JAMES FITZJAMES, R.N. (1835).
Mouth of the Orontes, June 1835.
On June 3, Omar Effendi came from Antioch with a mes- appx. sage from Ibrahim Pacha to the Colonel, to the eflFect that X. he had received orders from Mehemet Ali Pacha, his father, Leavefiom to give the Expedition all possible assistance, and that, in con- Ibrahim sequence, he (Ibrahim) had ordered the Mutflellim of Antioch the ExS- to collect 1,000 camels and a number of oxen for us. This ditionto the Colonel had been apprised of by a messenger who arrived o[^^' in the night from Mr. Dibbs. and oxen
Lieutenant Lynch joined us the same evening from Aleppo, i^^^ and the following day attempted to get up the Orontes in the Lastcmise 'Tigris;' but failing in the attempt, we returned, taking the ^^*f?^**' bank in several places, and giving her several most severe Orontefl. shocks, owing to her bad powers of steerage.
On the 5th, Yusuph Saba received orders from Ibrahim to Oiden for repair the road to Antioch, which, however, had been pre- ^pairing vioiLsly done by Lieutenant Lynch, but not in a manner to admit of the passage of our boilers ; in addition, the recent heavy rains have much injured what had been done, particu- larly by swelling the two rivers. Great and Lesser Kara-Chai, and the numerous streams which cross the line of road to Antioch.
At noon of this day we took the coals oul of the * Tigris,' Breaking and dismounted her wheels previous to breaking her up; and 'ip'Tigru.' on the 6th Lieutenant Lynch left to see the Pacha, and with orders to get the road cleared between Antioch and Birejik. I w^as this day ordered by the Colonel to commence levelling Fint w- and otherwise clearing obstructions on the road. I began P*J?"* ^ about four miles off, with fifty men, most of whom were old
and almost useless; but by dint of constant attention, and
I I
4S2 MB. FnZJAMES's REPOBT.
APPX. pointing out each stone which I wished removed, and e? X. pj^ I wanted cut away, I succeeded in making about a a and a half tolerably good. I was assisted by Mr. Michel, n was of much use to me as an interpreter. Mr. Bell was s( on to a hill about four miles from the camp, which from excessive steepness was ascended by a zigzag road to t height of about 100 feet, and the remainder of it a very rod road. Here he had 21 men only at work.
June 7. — I had only 21 men on the road, and thej d not come till 10 o'clock.
June 8. — I had great difficulty in procuring m&i, I 10 A.M. I had 30, collected by Mr. Michel, who went i Yusuph Saba's.
W\r^ tvnr At the camp 55 camels were loaded with great diflBcult; as the cameleers would only take the lightest loads, and thi
only after a great deal of vexatious talking and quarrelliii
Three of them cast loads a mile off. ' Tigris* * Tigris ' was this day hauled up on shore, her engines beii
cut into out, and the men were employed cutting her into eigl
^tctkmB. sections.
June 9. — I had only 21 men, but heard that Mr. Bell h
45, and Lieutenant Lynch 60 working at the first Kara-Clu
I continued working at the road till the 15th, during whi<
time I had always more or less difficulty in procuring me
Occasionally we had heavy rain and thunderstorms to inte
nipt us, and the sun in the middle of the day was very hot
Natire ^^ ^^^ meantime the * Tigris ' was cut into eight section
carpentere. and we got some native carpenters from Antioch to assist :
makiui^ waggons. 200 bullocks also came on the 12th, b
Bad bnl- ^f^^^ fruitless attempts to make them draw weights, we di
lock* fimt charged them. Lieutenant Cleaveland went to see Ihrahi
fiin*. Pacha on the 14tJi, to state the want of attention to his ordei
The Mat- June 16. — The Mutsellim of Antioch arrived by order •ellim f»f the Pacha with 96 men, who carried away some iron ribs Su<HliM. the * Euphrates.
Sm^od June 17. — Sent away 60 camels, loaded after great dif
^Jb""*' culty— the heaviest weight was only 600 lbs., and most
under ; also 48 men carrying iron. The Mutsellim ai
the Agha of the district being in attendance on the 181
seventeen horses were bought for drawing the waggons, no
MR. FITZJAMES'S REPOBT. 483
f which, however, had ever been in harness before, the owners APPX. «ing averse to allow them to attempt to draw, although the ^ ^ _^ If Qtsellim used his utmost endeavours.
On Jime 19 the Colonel ordered me to take the diving- jell truck to Antioch, laden with iron sheeting ; but I was >bliged to desist, as the bullocks would not draw.
June 20. — At daylight the five platform waggons (under [iieutenant Cleaveland and Mr. Eden) started, each drawn by 'our horses, and about 100 men accompanied them. The First start leaviest, however, having been left behind, I was ordered to ^^lom^ ake it on. I therefore started with four horses and thirty men it the dragropes, and got it as far as the first stream, about hree miles from the camp, where we slept in a cornfield.
JuTie 21. — We worked hard all day, beginning at 3 a.m., ind, by taking the men from two arabas and a waggon made >f the gun-slides, laden with iron, I increased our force to ipwards of 60 men. By means of a tackle, we got it over he first hill, to within a mile of where Lieutenant Cleave- and was with the other four waggons ; but, owing to the preat difficulty of getting them up the hill by the zigzag oad, he ordered me to give him all my men, which in- reased his force to 160, who dragged the waggons up one y one.
Jun^ 22.— I walked back to the camp, starting at 3 a.m.. Heavy nd on my way met 75 camels laden with machinery, stores, <*"^ ^ be, some of them carrying about 800 lbs. Mr. Clegg accom- panied them. I also passed Mr. Bassam, who was bringing •n the large truck and two arabas laden with iron. In the flemoon I started again, by the Colonel's order, and got one raggon to the foot of the large hilL
Jwru 23. — Got all the waggons to the foot of the hill. Truck and jid the large truck and artillery waggon up the steepest ^J^^g art of it. Being, however, obliged to unload the former, ud make the men carry the plates of iron to the top, the ron slipped ofi" the latter at the last turning and nearly illed a man. This day we had 103 men and twenty buj- ocks, all of whom were hardly sufficient to draw the waggons ne at a time. Fifty-three camels and sixteen mules passed luring the day, laden with iron, casks, machinery, &c. Lieu- enaut Cleaveland also rode to the camp from his waggons,
1 1 2
i
mXJ AMISS REFOBT.
« I
I
bj ni^ht. We slept od the top sfrSile of the night. Captain Ei pw "* -x^ <^ h^ vaj to the eamp from Birejik.
J^!B0f ±4. — LHQteskant ClemTelaDd started from A • •'""" 3^ 3fc. 'KjOflftfoc who was carrying the chronoi
t Sev-edT-Tcx mok aad tve&tT bollocks dragged the tw
^:a» t.> ikifr Gr«as Kara-OiaL The large tnick des ' w±z, 2?ear Te^^citr into the rirer, on account of i
wiiaeL^ aspi cmt weight. The bnllockfi were taken oi [ I TM- Sfcm heid on behind with ropes. We crossed th
j ^ as JEAlf-podC 7 in the erening.
I J'kftitf 25- — Bt carrring the loads by hand, we (
^ -BT^^ffi-c* up tbe hill, and descended again into the set
I y,-,fVr LhrL-e Karft-Cba:« an>i before dark got them np the
f KicKK xi.* «M^ sde. Walking on for an hour, I found Liei
I ^^^ CVare^az^i and two artilleTT waggons in a comfi
1 BjjL Ml haxis;^ discharged his knds at Antioch. The fieldpi riTe»i wiih two artiteryroen.
Jwme WL — We soC br sunset to within three miles txKh, harix^ pafsed the most difficult part of the re f:<casioBanT unloading the truck and camrins the hand. £ighty-f:*ur men to-day. Lieutenant Cle poiccd with the two artiU^y waggons.
J^KK^ 27. — Got both waggons to the gate of ^ vbere I found two platform waggtms encamped nnde of Mr. Eden : Lieutenant Murphy being employed r
i FoK ocTL' the Foad to SjexEer Hadid, just outside the town.
^*^^"^ *1- the waggon I brought with Lawrie to the village ol
burj. on the right bank of the Orontes, four mik
Antitjoo, where he imloaded and brought it back t(
paineti — the pole being broken — learii^ the truck i
Eden. Mr. Ainsworth arrived, having, in company n
Bell, taken two boatloads of iron up the lake and t
Pacha Bridge.
Track ud June 28. — This morning Mr. Eden took th
J^®5^ across the bridge and through the town, which, f
ABtMck. large stones and sharp tiunings, was no easy operat
the afternoon the other two wi^gons were got throi
all encamped about a mile off. They were dragged
by the tanners, who turned out about thirty in nui
MR. FITZJAMES'S BEPORT. 485
addition to the horses. Lieutenant Cleaveland arrived with the APPX. other two artillery waggons kden with iron, and Mr. Charle- ^ ^' _.
wood, who had brought four keelsons up the Orontes from the Keelsont camp. Lieutenant Cleaveland returned thither in the even- ^ ^^ ing. Lieutenant Murphy was at this time working in the house hired for the expedition, where we always lived when at Antioch.
June 29. — Captain Estcourt arrived, and having ordered me to repair the road towards Djezzer Hadid, I proceeded to St. Paul's Gate, and set thirty men to work, who however did but little, as they were very lazy, and the cowass who was with them did nothing. Lieutenant Cleaveland passed on to Gilzelburj with his two artillery waggons, and Captain Estcourt went down to the camp. In the evening Omar Omar Effendi paid us a visit, and said that he had been ordered by ^^^ Ibrahim Pacha to remain at Antioch till everything belong- aasistua. ing to the Expedition had passed, the Pacha being then at Adana.
June 30. — Lieutenant Cleaveland took the two artillery Artillery waggons, which went to Guzelburj yesterday, to Djezzer J^^W^**" Hadid Bridge in country boats to join Mr. Eden's waggons. Hadid. Captain Estcourt having directed me to take the four keelsons which had been left about two miles below Antioch on to Guzelburj, I went thither, having been assured by Omar Morekeel- £ffendi that men would be there to bring them up ; but none «>n8 up made their appearance. While there six more keelsons came ^^ ^' up the Orontes, tracked by some twenty men, who left them with the other four.
July 1. — I took one of our small boats from the place where it had been lying with the keelsons up to Guzelburj ; it was easily rowed up the river, and hauled over the weirs, of which there are five above Antioch.
July 2. — Captain Estcourt having directed me to take Take charge of the depot forming at Guzelburj, I pitched two tents Je^^^ there, and took up my abode with one seaman ; and this Guzelbuij. day the first detachment of two-wheeled waggons, or arabas, arrived with some heavy pieces of machinery, and on the following day one more with iron plates — also two keelsons came up the river.
The road beyond Antioch by Djezzer Hadid having been
486
MR. F1TZJAMES*S REPORT.
APPX. X,
of ipoi •lUfftd.
cnp- tioo Of Oftielboq.
Botta.
NatiTM.
Iroo
brooght
bftckftom
Goto Suodift*
AnbM Uken bj
IMtiTM.
found too bad, Captain Estcourt determined on sending a the things to Miirad Pacha by water.
Guzelburj is situated on the right bank of the Oronte on a point formed by a bend of the river, which is here aboi 50 yards wide, 2^ fiBithoms deep, and the current varyii from two to three knots per hour.
There are not above twenty houses, and the inhabitants- who are, as I was given to understand. Fellahs — gain a livi lihood by their boats, which they work up to Murad Rid Bridge, and up the Orontes, bringing com to the mills < Antioch, and occasionally passengers, besides rushes gatherc from the lake for mats, i&c.
These boats are 37 feet long, 5 feet broad, and 4 feet deei perfectly flat-bottomed, and propelled by a man on the sten who pushes with a long pole ; occasionally they have anothi poler forward.
Large herds of buffaloes come in every evening to 1 milked, finding pasture during the day on the iinmen plains which, extending to the Lake of Antioch, sprei themselves onwards to the Taurus Mountains. I alwa found the men civil, but probably through fear, as thi occasionally refused to sell us articles of food.
The Sheikh was a very nice man and worked hard for u but he died after I had been there a short time, and I successor was very lazy and avaricious, and only got woi done when obliged to do so by threats of reporting li conduct to Ibrahim Pacha, of which he was in great terror.
After sending four boats to Djezzer Hadid to fetch the ire back, and discharging two arabas with heavy machinery, rode down to the camp at Suedia on July 6, by order Captain Estcourt, meeting on my way one of the sections of tl ' Tigris ' on a four-wheeled waggon, and one of the large fla boats, also mounted on four wheels, with Mr. Charlewood, wl had not sufficient men. All the blacksmiths were workii hard to complete some waggons for the boilers, and we we employed mounting some boilers and sections of the ' Tigri on their respective waggons, several arabas with machine being sent on with parties of natives, who were paid befoi hand a certain sum, varying to 200 piastres, for the joum to Guzelburj. They seldom or never broke their engag
MR. FITZJAMES'S REPORT. 487
mentis, and that only when the waggon broke down, which appx. was but too often the case, or had got so immovably fixed , ^' ^ in a ditch or stream, as to require more energy than they pofisefised to extricate it.
Thirty-three mules started on the morning of the 8th, Powder laden with powder, and the blacksmiths and riveters, to com- Jj*^^"°' mence putting up the * Euphrates ' at Birejik ; and on the 9th phrates.' twenty mules more with rockets and baggage. On the 10th the Colonel started with more men and riveters to join the powder caravan.
July 10. — I was this day employed widening the road v^Tidemng into the Great Kara-Chai with fifteen men, which were all that «»4 ^^^ came, notwithstanding our repeated applications for more. At this time the flat-boat and three arabas were lying Flat-boat broken down between the two Kara-Chais. Having pro- ^^J^e!^ ceeded to where the former lay — to wit, in a narrow lane, with the wheels axledeep in mud — I received orders from Lieu- tenant Cleaveland by a Maltese to take Mr. Charlewood's place with the waggons, and send him back to mend the road. I therefore proceeded to Antioch, where I found that the section of the * Tigris ' had passed on to Guzelburj, and that the Colonel had gone on to Birejik.
On the following day I went to Omar EflFendi at the serfu, For an order to get men for the flat. He referred me to the BIutEellim, giving me a note for him, which I took to him, but got no men. I therefore wrote again to Omar EflFendi in the evening, stating the circumstances. The next day (12th) [ went out to the flat and waited till 2 p.m., when Ibrahim Efifendi came with fifty men and ten bullocks ; and after an Flat-boat bourns hard work, aided by his personal exertions, we sac- &ot outof needed in extricating the flat from the gutter, and got it to the top of the hill over the second Kara-Chai. At this time >ne cylinder of the * Euphrates' and another araba were lying in a stream near Antioch, broken down.
July 13. — The flat having a bolt broken, I got it re- ^Ibx paired at Antioch, which delayed us till 2 p.m., the men and broken )ullocks waiting in the adjoining fields ; but we got it within ^^'*' ;wo miles of Antioch, and the next time it broke in three diflfer- mt places ; the last was one wheel splitting in two, not having >eeQ properly fellored. I therefore made the people take out
488
UJL FTTZJAMES'S REPORT.
APPX. X.
Ptiddl*-
Xr. B^'s
rired at
Track and iioB in boaU from Dj«ner Hadid.
Repairing roaid ba- tween An- tiocfa and Oftaelboij.
Two lec- tions arrira atO&JEel- boij.
Section
braaking
down.
the two gin-poles and baggage, which they carried to Guze buij, and I discharged them, leaving the boat a quarter of mile from Antioch.
July 15. — Lieutenant Cleaveland sent Frew, the carpente to repair the flat ; also an order to get the iron then at Djez» Hadid taken to Guzelburj. I accordingly wrote to Odu Effendi to order the boatmen to do as required.
July 16. — The four paddle-beams arrived, having broke down twice near Antioch, and finally halfway to Guze buij. Mr. Rassam arrived from Gindareez to assist Qi and Mr. Bell came down from Murad Pacha in a boat, rer ill. I applied for twenty men, but only got ten, and ele?e bullocks, which took the flat to Guzelburj.
July 18. — The iron arrived from Djezzer Hadid in fi^ boats, vrith the diving-bell truck. I completed five good boa of 1^ to 2 tons each, and sent them up to Nomad Pach The following day I sent Mr. Sassam to Snedia with foi empty arabas. In the evening Lieutenant Cleaveland can in to buy necessary articles, such as pitch, rope, &c., and < procure money, having left three sections of the 'Tigris' ai one boiler broken down near the camp at Suedia.
July 2 1 . — I commenced repairing the road between Antio<
and Guzelburj with twenty-six men, and also worked wi
them the following day; and on the 23rd I went out
where the section of the * Tigris ' was lying, five miles fro
Antioch, to get it repaired, while Lieutenant Cleaveland ai
Mr. Charlewood passed on to Guzelburj with two sectia
and one of the bedplates of the ' Euphrates * on wheels ; h
one of them and the bedplate broke down one mile fro
Antioch. Lieutenant Cleaveland and Mr. Charlewood we
back to Suedia, and I got blacksmiths from Antioch to r
pair them ; the next day the bedplate got on to Guzelbu
On July 25 I got the section from Antioch to Guzelbi with a party of Turcomans and their bullocks, who h
remained by it The following day was employed getti
the blacksmiths and carpenters to work for the other sectia
of the 'Tigris,' and having on the 27th sent a carpeni
to repair it^ I got it on to Antioch on the evening of t
28tb, with twenty-seven men and twelve bullocks, whi
were very bad. It then broke down again. It was i
MK. FITZJAMES'S REPORT. 489
paired the following day and got to Guzelbiirj, where I APPX. found the smallpox raging amongst the inhabitants.
July 31. — I was obliged to write a strong letter to Omar Effendi about the unwillingness of the men at Guzelburj to start with our machinery; and on August 1, having pro- ciured seven workmen from Antioch, I loaded the flat with Flat heavy pieces of machinery. loaded.
August 3. — After several fruitless applications at Antioch for carpenters to repair the native boats, they at last arrived, and the flat started, poled by six men.
August 5. — Lieutenant Cleaveland sent for me to Antioch Two from GOzelburj to get money from Mr. Dibbs, and Mr. Char- 5?-*^®j?*^ lewood arrived with two boilers of the * Euphrates.' They both returned to Suedia the following day ; and the native boats having been repaired were launched, four in number, and j^^^j ^ loaded the next day with the remainder of the plates of the boats re- * Euphrates ' and some heavy machinery. paired.
August 7. — At 10 a.m. I went to Antioch, where I found Death of that the seaman, James Brown, had just died at our house, J. Brown, where he had been lying, attended most kindly by Mr. Haage, .. j, a Polish surgeon in the Pacha's service. Dr. Staunton airived a few minutes after his death, and returned again to Suedia. Not having any men with me, I judged it expedient to have him interred according to the rites of the Greek Church, which was done by applying to Mr. Dibbs, and he was buried Burial of in the Frank burial-ground east of the town. ^' Brown.
August 8. — Captain Estcourt came from El-Haman, and To Suedia Lieutenant Cleaveland came in for money in the evening, ^^ which, as was often the case, we borrowed from Mr. Dibbs. Eateoupt We all three rode down to Suedia in the nierht. I returned i?^ Lieut.
Clcavo-
the next day with Captain Estcourt and Lieutenant Murphy, land, the former going on to El-Haman.
At this time there were ready mounted on waggons at State of Suedia, three boilers, two sections of the ' Tigris,' one cylin- ^"""P^*^- der of the * Euphrates,' and one bedplate of the * Tigris,' waiting for men and bullocks, although the Mutsellim of Antioch was there.
On the 12th, Captain Estcourt returned again, and on the Visit to following day, in company with liieutenant Murphy and PaciuJ"^ myself, paid a visit to Ibrahim Pacha on his return from
I
]
490 MB. FIBJAUBS'S BKPOIT.
.APPX. Adaoju He vu toy anl, spoke much about the si
. ^ . Europe, sad paiticiilArljr of the Busnans, whom he i â– hould much wish to go to war with. Nothing w: about the Expeditioa. Omar Effendi acted as inteipi Tbe nme day, our flat and all the boats rtturaei Hurad Pacha, and I loaded the former again the m and cent it ofL
KarfHM August 14. — Captain Eatcourt came to Guzelbuij, .
^ test off to Gindareez, with some trouble, four of thi
pieces of keelson end-jHecea on four horaea.
Augfui 16. — All the boats went again to Murad Pac! loads, two with iron and two with keelsons. Captain E left for El-Haman, and in the evening Lieutenant C1& arriTed with the other targe fiat-bo.it on wheels, havi three boilers and a section four or five miles from Ai one of the boilers had capsized ; two half-sections o from Suedia with natives, on large two-wheeled araba
Rwka Augv^ 17. — I sent fourteen horse-loads of plank (' van ') to Gindareez. lo tbe evening. Lieutenant Clei came in, having left the boilers a mile off. The a Lieutenant Cleaveland went back to Suedia, and I got
BoOm w the boilers to Giiselburj by 1 1 a.m., but could not ;
***"'''^- Turcomans to take back the empty waggons ; they all over the river, and I observed that the natives of burj would not ferry them over, on account of t ference of religions opinions. On tbe following day, got the other boiler repaired, and procured men fron Effendi, I took it to Guzelburj with twelve oxt
Boaiai*- thirty-three men. The same evening tbe boats n
'""* from Miir«d Pacha.
August 23.— I went oat to the road to bring in a ' drawn by six horses, nnder charge of Harrison (artillei
aadkadid uid at Guzelbuij loaded our flat and all the boat
^'^ Tery heavy machinery, and started them all next ds
the borae-w^iggon and its load, sending tbe horses north road to Miitad Pacha.
^"â„¢ This ends my proceedings at Guzelburj, as on th
I was taken ill, and suffered so much &om fever ai
j^-^**^ tually to prevent my exerting myself at alL Mr. Chai took my place* aod having embarked nearly all I
///
7
MB. FITZJAMBS'S REPORT. 491
mainder of the stores, went to Murad Pacha on Septem- APPX. her 24. . ^ .
On December 10 Dr. Staunton advised me to go to Port William, and finding from Mr. Eden, who had just arrived, that the Colonel wished me to go, and also feeling that I should not get clear of ague till I did, I made a start for Amval at Port William, where I arrived on December 16. ^^
JAMES FITZJAMES.
To Lieut. Cleaveland, &c.
492
MR. AINBWOBTn'S JOURNEY TO GONSTANT150PLE.
APPX. XL
PUinsoT Bugdad
I
nver.
Wild
APPENDIX XL
REPORT OF A JOURI>EY FROM BAGDAD TO CON STANTINOPLE VlA KURDISTAN (1837).
BY WILLIAM AINSWORTH.
Left Bagdad, accompanied by Mr. Christian Bassam, on Wed- ue^lay, February 1, 1837, and traversed the low level plaii which stretches far and wide around the City of the Khalipb to the post-house of Dukala. The plain was in places inter sected by canals of irrigation, and cultivated, especially nea the River Tigris, but its general feature was barrenness. Th course of the highway was marked by bleached heads ( camels, oxen, and mules, and that so distinctly that it woul liave been impossible to have gone astray, even without guide. It is difficult, however, for a stranger to find his ws across these plains without such — they are so intersected I canals, and the roads are etfaced by the rains and drougl alike. The only objects of interest on this first day's jounw were the well-known Tomb of Lokman,the ruined castle calk Kalah Sakmasi, and a group of date-trees around Eh Jidida, our restingplace.
The next day (February 2) we travelled over a siinil country, watered by derivatives from the Khalis Canal, itse derived from the Diyalah river; and passed several villap all alike consisting of beehive huts enclosed within mi walls, and a few sepulchral tombs with groups of date>tre — trees spared probably on account of their sanctity. ^ rested at JizanT, another lonely khan in the wilderness, heavy thunderstorm during the night rendered the mud ve slippery the next day (February 3). We crossed the Kha Canal, where it was sixty paces in width, by a bridge of fo arches. Several wild boars were met with on the way, ai we shot a couple of desert grouse {Pth^ocles). Just befc arriving at the khan of Delli Abbas, or < Mad Abbas,' t
MB. AINSWORTIl'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 493
liorse of Pedro, a Portuguese boy who accompanied us, APPX. stumbled, and the boy falling on his hand broke the radius -_ / ^
of the right arm. There being no wood, we got some reeds The boy from the canal, and splitting them made a very comfortable a^^ident. contrivance for keeping the parts in apposition; and the elbow l)eing bent to relax the biceps, and the arm tied up to the chest, the boy was enabled to continue his journey the next day, and no untoward symptoms interfered with the slow progress of recovery.
Four miles beyond Delli Abbas (February 4) we came to the Hamrin or * Red Hills,' justly so named, being for the The Ham- most part composed of supracretaceous red sandstones, very ft^'jimiiB' bare and waterwom. Vegetation was already prolific in favoured spots among these hills, and some places were clothed with flowering crocus and narcissus. Passing the Nahr-rin, or (as Mr. Kich has it) the *Nareeu,' forty feet wide by two feet in depth, we came upon an extensive plain, called (after a village with a lofty mound attached to it) Kara Teppeh — * Black or Ruinous Hill.' The village itself, where we rested for the night, contained about 400 huts, and there is a small burial-ground on the mound to the south. Mr. Rich,* who carried on some excavations here, found urns with bones; and he thinks it must have been a Dakma, or place where the fire-worshipping Persians of Sassanian times exposed their dead bodies. The people call the mound Namaz-Kilan Tep-. peh, or * The Mount of Prayer.'
Crossing the Tchaman watercourse the next day (Febiiiary 5) by a dangerous bridge, we traversed several ranges of low rocky hills, and arrived in the afternoon at Kifri, a small Town of town with about 1,200 houses, enclosed within a mud ^**^"' â– wall, and situated at the foot of higher hills to the SE. These hills are composed of red sandstone, clay, gypsum. Mineral and freshwater limestones, with some beds of salt and bitu- formation. minous shales, and they are remarkable for their abundant naphtha springs. The hills attain an elevation of from 500 to 600 feet above the plain, and course in a remarkably straight line from N. TO"* E. to S. 70^ W.
There are many breaks or gaps in this range, through which mountain torrents, and in some instances perennial
* * Narrative of a Residence in Kurdistan,' vol, i. p. 13.
An
Ml. USBTOnH'S JOCBSJET TO OOSSIABIIirOPU
AFFX. rtranu, find their way; tad tbeae g^ have for thi . _ . part been defended 1^ walls in oldeo times, and the a dammed npu Such, at Ki&i, ia the Kori-^lhai, or ' Dry apon wbu^ are aome mina half a mile SE. of the and east of which is a large high mound contaiiung, ami with bones, ai at Kant Teppefa, and whit^ Bic S^if tW refets to the epodi of the Sananian fire-wcffdiippera. conntiy would, from the ahondance of naphtha, natnn a favoured place of residence with the fire-wonhippei as was the case with parts of Snsiana and Laristan, few Par^ are still to be oiet with at Baku on the C Se». There are traces of bnildings to be aeen aroui mound at Kifiri, havii^ square baaements like thoee a ShiifD. Above Kifri itaelf are also vestiges of a wa bagments of solid buildings, iqiparently towers of de and futher up the torrent are some sepulchral grott which the rock; shdrea for the hodies are still Tieible. Seven miles to the SW^ oa the plain, are the ruins ( (or'Old') Kifri Here is an immense artificial mound, almost perpendicular side^ except where the raini made deep cuts or furrows. Rich dug up urns with at this place, and he considers it to be another relic < sanian fire-worahippers. There are several other mounds in the neigh boarbood, one of the largest of n called Ash-Tukan.
Beyond Kifri the plain of Bayad, or Beiat (so calle the Turcoman tribe frequenting it), slopes down gn from the Kifri Hills to the Valley of Tchaman. It ii vated in parts, and dotted with the mounds of Sassanii worshippers. Passing one of these mounds with a caetlef'Kizzel Kharaba' of Rich, but our informants q Kiz Kalabsi, * Oirls' or Maiden Castle'), we came to a large Sassaoian raound, fourteen miles from Kifri, Uniki Imam, from a Mahommedan tomb, and close by are q aphtha springs.
We arrived the same evening (Monday, February 6) i Khurmati, or Khunnati; but before entering the tov to ford the Ak-Su, or White River, a tribntary to the i or Adhaym. This stream passes through a gap in th which are here designated as the Jebel All in Arabic, a
'â– /I
MB. AWSWORTH'S journey TO CONSTANTIKOPLK. 495
Tagh by the Turks, from a * kurabet ' (or dome) on one of the APPX. hois, which is said to commemorate the spot where AH once . ^ _^ peketed his horse.
The population of Tuz-Khurmati is estimated at about Tuz 5,000 souls, and the town is surrounded by gardens of date, ^^'"â„¢*^ orange, lemon, fig, apricot, pomegranate, and olive trees. The people are Turkish and mostly Ismaelians, and Rich believed there were among them Tchiragh Sundirans, or *ex- tinguishers of lights.' The ruins of an old Christian church (Syrian or Chaldean) are met with west of the town. The pass in the hills was also in olden times defended by a wall with towers, of which all that remains in the present day are fragments of a castellated structure and of the wall.
We passed the next day in exploring the celebrated naphtha Naphtha springs in the hills in the neighbourhood. These springs, "P"?^, "* and the nature of the wells from which they are derived, aie 80 minutely described in the Report on the geological portion of the Euphrates Expedition (published under the title of 'Researches in Assyria, &c.') that it is needless to enter here upon purely scientific details. Suffice it to say that the springs are thermal, that they give oflF hydrosulphurous acid, and that some of them contain salt as well as naphtha. The value of the produce of the latter is estimated at 20,000 piastres per annum. The decomposition of the hydrosulphurous acid also gives birth to deposits of sulphur and alum in an effervescent state. It is said that about 30 pints of naphtha may be skimmed off the surface in twenty-four hours. The barometrical indications gave an approximate elevation for Tuz-KhurmatT of 114 feet above Elevation Bagdad. The plain inclined hence by a very gentle slope °[*^® towards the Hamrin Hills, and there were several mills along the course of the river, each of which had a mud tower attached to it, in which to post a guard — all the places on the Kurdish border being exposed to inroads from robbers of that nation.
As we proceeded in a north-westerly direction on Wed- nesday, February 8, the hills kept gradually diminishing in height till, about eight miles beyond Tuz-KhurmatT, they almost descended to the level of the plain. Halfway be- tween Tuz Khurmati and Ta-uk (* Place of Fowls ') two beds
I i r^^^l ""'^ '^ niioous nn'uaret to distinguieh it, w
n^^f Saroii and tbe Repulchnd toinl) and chapel
J] H ('TIieBcst of Hermits'), Tbere are also ruic
1 H tiaD church.
1 n EiAQk. From Ta-uk to Kirkuk we travelled (ou Th
9) over plains of nearly similar character travprfied for tbe la^t three days — only more watercourses, and better cultivated in c< more villages. To the west of Ta-uk was tl ill) also Jurnaila, 'The Pretty Little One' ' lieyond Matara, which gives ita name to a i
hills. There were many 'tels' or niouudsou which, dosignated Tamaranda, bod perpendi lurge village, with rivulet and gardens, was i Khunnatr. Kirkuk, proliably the Ecbatat with its extensive but ruinous c&'ttle, full < ruins, on the suinmit of a rocky hill, and suburbs div(!rBifie<l by minarehs and the do pn-seuts an imposing appearance. It is s somi- importance, and contains a mixed popi Popnlniion at 10,000 souls. It is watered by a tributai 1 1 1 â– ' â– The bazaar.t are covered and well supplied,
tlHIIFBH ture of blue cloth for women and tanning
wine 1:4 made for Mile in Bagdad, and [
MR. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO COKSTANTINOPLE. 497
Our attention was in reality concentrated upon the very APPX. remarkable phenomena of natural fires, which have existed ._ ' ^ from the remotest times in this neighbourhood, and which Natural have failed to attract that attention which the pens of graphic ^"'* travellers have attached to similar yet less persistent phe- nomena at Baku on the Caspian Sea. In this case the flames come forth from a depression of the soil several hundred •quare jB.rd8 in extent, on the crest of a ridge of low hills to the north-west of Kirkuk. The flames are scarcely visible in a strong sunshine, but they are very brilliant by night. Wherever a spear was pushed into the soil by our attendants, a new flame at once sprang forth. The fumes were sul- phureous and suffocating. Notwithstanding that phenomena of the class in question are perfectly well understood, and were described in the * Eesearche45 in Assyria' (p. 242), as arising from chemical action, we have seen them confounded even in works recently published, having reference to the Dead Sea and its occasional emission of naphtha and petro- leum or bitumen, with volcanic phenomena to which they have no relation whatsoever.
Not far from the Abu Gagir and Kirkuk Baba, both signi- fying the same thing (' Father of Flames,' as the spot is desig- nated by the Arabs and Turks respectively), are several wells from which considerable quantities of naphtha and petroleum Petroleum are obtained. Clear naphtha is called by the natives ' nafta "j^^ "^Pj'' abiyad,' or white naphtha ; petroleum, * kara nafta,' or black naphtha. From eight to ten gallons were said to be col- lected from each well per diem ; they were seven in number Eit the time of our visit, but they might be sunk in any place over a considerable extent of ground.
From Kirkuk — where we had been hospitably entertained Route by the Mutsellim, or Turkish governor, during our stay of two ^^^i^ iays^-our road lay in a nearly due easterly direction, over a low hilly country, towards Kurdistan. We crossed on the first lay's journey (Sunday, February 12) three different ridges 3f bills, bivouacking at a ruinous and deserted khan called Khan Grashir, on the crest of a fourth ridge. The first of these ^*"^- ranges was composed of gypsum, marls, and sandstones, but the last three of sandstones, sands, and conglomerates. The valleys were watered by natural rivulets, from which we
K K
498
MB. AINSWOETH S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
Eleration
ofhiUy
ridges.
PaMof
Beerbend-
i-Buijan.
Party of
armeid
Kudc
Tubbis- spi.
Iti inhabi taatf.
Valley of Alay.
gathered refreshing watercresses ; the slopes of the hills wil ilex, and some few myrtles and box-trees ; the hills themselv were in part grassy, yet there were no people or habitations- nothing save a few herds of gazelles. We had to cut our ovi firewood at the deserted khan, and to take turns to ke( watch by night. The estimated elevation of Kirkuk wi 1,150 feet, of Khan Gashlr 2,853 feet.
We advanced from the deserted khan across a moorlani with the village of Kiirkaf in its centre, to a pass in tl mountains called Deerbend-i-Basiyan. This pass is a gap i a low range of limestone hills, and is defended by a val Tribute or toll used to be collected at this spot, being one ( the most remarkable entrances into Central Kurdistan. As ^ approached the pass, we met some ^ sipahs ' or armed Kurdis clansmen, on horseback, who expressed surprise at our vei turing, in so small a party, along a road on which, they wei pleased to intimate, a caravan had been plundered that vei day. They were stalwart-looking fellows, and met us at picturesque site ; but as we had an oflScer with us from tl Governor of Kirkuk, they did not oflFer the slightest opp sition to our progress, or make any demands for a present
There were several abundant springs at the pass, and othc beyond, which united to form a rivulet near the village Tubbis-spi, where we passed the night. This rivulet was o of the head tributaries of the Ta-uk river. The inbabitai were a fine race, tall, of easy gait and flexible limbs ; th< features were handsome and dark, the forehead good a intellectual, and the eyes very expressive. We had some m( and rice with us from the Kirkuk bazaar, but the good peo] of the village said they would take some time to prepares they volunteered a supper of their own, which consisted o plentiful supply of eggs and boiled wheat* Altogether we w< very much pleased with our first introduction to the Kur Little did we dream, at the time, of the days and months should have to spend in after-years in their society ! •
The next day (February 14), we crossed over a range limestone hills to the valley of Alay, a moorland of aboi mile in width. The snows had only recently melted in 1
* Mr. AinsTTorth Rpent some montliR among the Kurds on a subseq occasion. (See p. 609.)
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 499
country, and the soaked soil let the mules in up to their APPX. knees at every step. A few pink and white crocuses were, \^
however, in flower, and there was such a profusion of hyacinths or bluebells, that I regretted not being a month later, when they would have been in flower.
We had only one more ridge to cross, and we found our- Plain of selves descending to the open cultivated plain of Sulaimaniyah. J^^^^^' From Khan Gashir we travelled 8 boars (28 miles), to Tiibbis-spi ; from Tubbis-spi to Sulaimaniyah it was 7 hours (24^ miles). As we approached the town, we found the Pacha playing at soldiers without the precincts of tbe place ; that is, he was sitting with two children, two Persians, an oflBcer of the Nizam, and attendants, watching his small body of regular troops going through their platoon exercise. The sound of drum and fife in so remote a district, and where the low flat roofs made the capital of Central Kurdistan look not 00 much like a town as the tenement of some industrious alpine quadruped — a home of hamsters — was singular indeed. As we plunged deeper and deeper into this place, of such un- inviting aspect, a few houses of better construction hecsune The town. visible, and a bazaar some 300 feet in length was traversed ; the ruins of a small castellated building spoke of times gone by, and a palace, partly of mud and partly of brick, an- nounced the residence of the existing Pacha.
We met with a kindly reception, and were ushered into Our re- what the French would call a pavilion in the palace-garden, ^®P^^°- and where, in virtue of a ticket given to the attendants, a load of wood was followed by one of rice and meat. The pilau was of colossal dimensions, and had raisins scattered on its surface, as also a few beneath; and it did honour to Kurdish hospitality, which on this occasion certainly did not show itself to be behind that of either Arabs or Turcomans.
The next morning the Pacha gave us a formal reception, Inteiview in the presence of his Persian friends. Our papers were p^h^/ examined, and as, in answer to the usual enquiry as to what brought us into these mountain districts, we replied, succinctly and truly, that we were in search of mines, * Of what use,' said the Pacha, ' would it be to find mines here ? The Persians would not allow them to be worked.' The solemn-looking Tajiks having bowed acquiescence, I remarked, that if mines
K K 2
500 MR. AISSWOBTH'S JOUESET to COSSTAKTISOFl
APPX. were discovered, the Sultan woald know bow to v
■_ ^' ,. hie rigbta, — a reply which pleased the representative
Siibliine Porte mightily, so much so, that he made no
to coDceal his gratification in the presence of the
envoys, but gave a loud and emphatic acquiescence, 'i
formal reception over, all others were totally uncerem
and we spent the two following days in exploring the
of Sert-Chinar, Dargbazin, or Shahiizur,* as It is tj
designated, and the mountain regions around. The
Tika hiOi of the latter, part of ancient Tagn», are here called tfa
irm"^ "^*° **'' ' I'om^'anate-water ' hills. They are rem
fur their hold, rocky, and conical forms, and are capp
snow during a lai^e portioD of the year. The culn
point in the mountains was called Pir Omar Kidru
the Kidnin valley at Jerusalem. The estimated alt
Siilaimaniyah was, by barometrical observation, 3,01
Tcnpeia- The mean temperature of the place was, from the obst
"*' of a very abuodaot spring, 61°. This makes the temp
at an elevation of 3,000 feet in the parallel of 34°, al
same as that of Malta, io the parallel of 34'''2.
Rich', d*- Jlr. Rich doea not appear to have been more stru
rfsSlT the appearance of Sulaimaniyah than we were. 'T
muinb. uary houses,' he says, 'are mere mud hovels, whicl
the place look like a large Arab village ; they are p
exposed, hut the people do not seem to regard t
women going about with the men, and performti
domestic labours without any veil. This miserable'
town, however, cootains six khans, Sve mosques, ao<
fine bath, with 2,000 Mohammedan, 130 Jewish, 9 CI
and 5 Armenian houses. The populatioa of Sulaima
estimated by the best judges among the Kurds at
souls, including the officers of government and reta
princes residing here. The ordinary citizens are of I
sant race.' It is necessary, to understand this last
to explain that the peasantry in Kurdistan are distin
PnuaDiB from the tribes or claosmeD, who seldom cultivate t
men. ^^^ claonish Kurds call themselves ' sipah ' or i
Kurds, in contradistinction to the peasant Kurds, i
called ' Guran-rayahs ' or serfs, as also ' Kunylis ' orv:
* Kirkfiknird to br th« cajnla] of ShaliriEDr. TheartntJ capital i bxT, Snl&im&Dtjali Mng a wpuate pachalie.
MR. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 501
It is surprising how little timber there is in these moun- APPX. tains. Only the 'tchinar/ or oriental plane, is cut between ^ ^' - this place and Sinna, and it is floated down the Diyalah to Bagdad. Some mulberry and nut trees are also cut, but Timber, only out of orchards. It is diflferent in Northern Kurdistan^ and hence most wood is sent down from Jezirah-ibn-Omar by the Tigris, and by the two Zabs. There are some villages of Afghans in Shahrizur, as also some families of Afshars (Nadir Shah's tribe), all political refugees. Snow lies on the ground at Sulaimaniyah, in winter, for from two to six weeks, and the cold is said to be very severe. It is equally hot in summer. Barley is reaped by the 1st of June; mulberries Vegetable ripen about the same time, when cucumbers also first come P'^^®- in, but wheat is not cut down till the middle or end of June. Cotton, tobacco, rice, and other cereals are also cultivated, but no hemp or flax. Oranges and lemons will not stand the winter, but some castor-oil plant is grown. The grape-vine flourishes freely. Gall-nuts, honey, and other mountain pro- ducts are exported to Kirkuk. Two kinds of manna (* kudrat halvassi,' divine sweetmeat) are collected — one from the dwarf oak, and another from the rocks, the latter being pure and whit«. When a night is unusually cool in June, the Kurds say it rains manna, as most is then found.
Sulaimaniyah is not an old town ; it was founded, in about History of 1788, by one Ibrahim Pacha, who removed the capital from SuUimam- Kara-Tchulan, on the other side of the Azmir hills, and he called his new town Sulaimaniyah, in compliment to the then Pacha of Bagdad, Sulaiman. There was, however, an ancient mound at the site, and a village known as Malik Hindi, or * the village of the Indian king.' Situated as it is in a hollow, about two miles from the foot of the eastern range of hills, and in a sort of ravine amidst the bare debris of the rocks, Sulaimaniyah is one of the least prepossessing sites in Kur- distan. Mr. Kich spent some days here in 1820, but his time was chiefly taken up with local politics and family affairs, diversified by dog and partridge fights. Sir Henry Rawlin- son has added largely to our knowledge of Kurdistan, south of Sulaimaniyah, in an account of a march from Zohab, at the foot of ZagroR, to Kermanshah, performed in the year 1836, and published in the ninth volume of the * Journal of the Koyal Geographical Society.' It is much to be regretted ^—
Mil
i
f;l
502 ICB. AlHSWOBTH'S JOUKNBY TO COireTANTINi
APPX. that the map which accompanied the Report of 1 â– Persiaii Boundary ComouBBioD, presented to the
CommoDS, was not printed, as it would throw i upon many of the obscure points in the geograpl Umitropbal regions. Cmowi of I had arranged with Rassam to get away qui " 'â– morning of Friday, February 17, but travel in t often both dilatory and expeniiive. The Pacha int presenting me with a horse, for which an equivalt waH expected, and the innumerable attendants all for liberal ' backshish.' A clansman was also to aco as far as Kuuy Sanjak. All these matters delayed that we were only able to effect a start and a short village of Barmndaus ; but finding that place full we crossed the valley to ChallUpi, a poor village obttiiued a sorry tenement full of lively little inba more numerous than soldiers. |^M>->- The nest day we travelled for sis-and-a-half houi
i-Mirun, the greater part of the journey lying aloi uf the giant mass of the P!r Omar Kidrun. We ttDguish two deep caverns on its southern face, on is said to have been the hermitage or home of the of Kidrun ; and he has imparted so much sanctity I that, according to popular tradition, true believe the caves are miraculously supplied with provisi Care of cave is Called Diz-rud, from a village of the same D Dit-md. f^^^^ ^f jj^^ mountain. On this day's journey we f< highly-carburetted marls with seams of ironsto: soon assumed a considerable development in a rang known as the Aixl-er-Kahman, and which occupy t the valley beyond the PIr Omar Kidrun. There v: in these formations to induce hopes of a successf for lignite-coal, one of the principal objects of o Two observations made this day, in two good spi each a temperature of 60° as the mean of the coi lent their corroboration to the observation made maniyah. On the other side of the hills, almost the i Zoology, things met with had been gazelles, boars, jackal hares, grouse, partridges, and crows; now we had v foxes in addition to jackals and hyenas; black be
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 503
* manga mar' and * gamash/ and wild goats or sheep, were said to exist in the mountains. Jerboas were as numerous at the foot of some of the wells as rabbits in a warren, and more so. There were also numerous Large accipitrous birds, bustards, herons (chiefly of a black species), spurred lapwings, snipe, and starlings, to enliven the ride.
On the next day's journey (Sunday, February 19), we found the carbonaceous rocks still further developed along the base of the hills, here called Sa'rt; and they occupied the valley TheSa'rt between them and the Kam-Shukah hills, which are merely ^^' the prolongation of Pir Omar Kidrun to the north. The hollow of this valley presented the most likely spot to search for coal or lignite met with in the course of the journey. There was also much beautiful scenery in the course of this days ride. Immediately on leaving Khan-i-Miran, and at the head of the valley of Sulaimaniyah, we passed a ruined cattle designated as Kalah Khaftau. The ridge here con- Kuined stituted the parting line between the two watersheds — on the ^f®,^®^ south to the Diyalah river, on the north to the Little Zab. Xhaftan. In the rocky pass between the Pir Omar Kidrun and the bold Kam-Shukah range was a village called Sir-Dash, with a Sir-Dash, walled fortification or castle on the mountain side. Wood became more common ; the rivulets were lined with oleander and myrtle, and blue and red anemones flowered below. Several villages were also to be seen on the skirts of the Sa'rt hills, at an elevation of some 500 or 600 feet from the val- ley below. The Kam-Shukah hills were too precipitous for Kam-Shft- building, and the villages occupied nooks at the base, some- ^^^ *"^' times in the most picturesque positions. The dead appeared to be brought from all these villages, to be buried in little sacred groves of oak by the wayside, probably that wayfarers might give a passing prayer for the benefit of their souls. Many had scattered stones, more especially beautiful jaspers, which abounded in this district, over their graves. Frag- ments of linen and cloth were also attached to particular trees, a practice common in many countries, attesting at all events a wide-spread superstition.
Among the most beautiful of the villages was Kam-Shukah Village of itself. It stood at the entrance of a dark narrow ravine, with ghSah. a precipice rising many hundred feet perpendicularly above.
504
MR. AI5SW0RTH 8 JOURXET TO OOXSTAKTiyOPLE.
APPX, XI.
Carbona- cvoQB de- pusiu.
KalkA- ^immak.
The ruins of a castle stood upon a crag that jutted over
the glen or ravine, and just above it an eagle had built its
nest. Beyondy a solitary square tower occupied a still more
picturesque position among the rocks, and several round
towers were scattered about according, apparently, as a point
of command could be gained. A stream of clear water flowed
through the glen, and by its sides were the huts auid pleasant
gardens of the red-turbaned and red-tasselled natives. The
beautiful silky-haired goat of Kurdistan lay at the thresholds,
or browsed amid the adjacent rocky debris. The castle at
Kam-Shukah was, like the one at the dividing ridge, called
Sir-Tash, or Sir-Dash, probably signifying head-stone or rocL
We find Sir and Pir constantly used in Kurdistan, as in
Central Asia and in India, as expressive of high and exalted,
but *tash' or *dash' is a Turkish word.* The tower opposite
was calleil SIr-tuk, also the name of a village farther on.
Mundityy February 20. — I was engaged a considerable time in the further examination of the carbonaceous deposits ; but being covered with limestones on the hills, and ^ith vege- tation in the valley, I had to limit myself to the exploration of watercourses, and that without any satisfactory results. We then proceeded to cross the Little Zab, which we did on a raft of skins, swimming the horses behind. The river is here called Tayiat or Tahiyat — ^not Tahiti, as marked in Kinneir's map ; the ferry was called Dakan, and the village at the ferry Sir-tuk. The remainder of the day's journey was occu- pied in a continuous ascent to the village of Kalka-Simmak This was a large and beautiful village, buried in groves and orchards of figs, pomegranates, and grape-vines, and situated oil a ridge only some 500 feet below the adjacent hills Unfortunately, there had been some difficulty with the people and the place was occupied by soldiery. We were, however kindly received in the mosque, and were not a little amused by the son of the village Agha, followed by a train of servants bringing in our dinner whilst evening prayers were going on Our meals in Kurdistan consisted almost invariably of wheal boileii with sorrel and oatmeal porridge. A heavy storn passed over during the night, and the tumbledown ok mosque afforded us so little protection that we were drenche<
• Sir ii pronounced like the fiitt sjlkUe in 'serioni,' and P!r as in 'period.*
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 505
in our beds. The temperature of an abundant spring, in APPX, which ablutions were performed near the mosque, was 58**'5, ^, ' _ ^ and the estimated elevation of the village 2,244 feet.
The country we had been traversing was peopled by the Hamuana Kurds, who were at that period in rebellion against Turkish authority. Around the Little Zab and its soiuces are the Bulbassi and the Lizan — next to the Bahdinan among the most powerful Kurdish tribes. Rich divides the Bulbassi Kuidish into several sub-tribes — between Sulaimaniyah and Persia, "^°"- the Jaffs, the Sinna, the SuratT, and the Hailan ; near Hawanduz, the Arki and Aku ; between Eawanduz and Sinna, the Manasp and the Khusnawa; at Kuuy Sanjak, the Zirar ; between it and Arbil, the Disdai and Sherdi. Some of these may be merely sub-tribes. The snow-clad mountains at the head of the Little Zab were called Kandil.
We left Kalka-Simmak early in the morning of Wednesday, February 22, by a rugged hilly road, passing, at a distance of four miles, a village simply designated as Kalah (* The Castle'), where was a remarkable hill of ironstone and bitu- minous marl, with powerful veins of calcareous spar. One- and-a-half mile beyond was the village of Kirdala; two miles farther. Sheik Hajji; and three miles beyond, Kalah Khan, with a mound of ruin ; but, like the previous place, also called Kalah, it possesses no castle in the present day. Hence our road took us over the ridge of hills called Kashgar, Hills of the barometer giving an elevation of 3,286 feet to the summit- Kaahgar. level. It was twelve miles hence to Kuuy Sanjak, passing, at the foot of the hills, the village of Hajji Karan. Kuuy (or Koi) Sanjak ranks as a town ; and although the Mutsellim placed a large and convenient apartment at our disposal, it Kuuy did not suflSce to accommodate the number of persons who Saigak. came to see us in the evening. We had the misfortune to be, according to their account, the first Europeans who had visited their little town, and we suffered from their curiosity accordingly. It was, indeed, very late before the good people of Kuuy Sanjak could be induced to take their departure.
In our latest maps of these regions the Little Zab is made The Little to join the Tahiti of Kinneir (Tahiyat) at Kuuy Sanjak, ^^• while another tributary flows into the same river at Altun KuprL The Tahiyat, which we crossed at Dakan, is the only
506
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTIKOPLE.
niiu of
Hmnman Mttk.
Sasa.
Bama- span.
IlotpUinf,
Th« Arbil moand.
river strictly so speaking; the stream of Kuuy Sanjak is mere rivulet, and it flows into the Tahiyat, or Little Zab, i or near Altun Kupri.
Starting from Kuuy Sanjak, we ascended the next da (Thursday, February 23) the rocky hills of Hammac Muk, without seeing the thermal waters from whence th place derives its name ; but we visited some abundant spring called I)ar-mu, which supply the town with water, and pre sented a temperature of 61^ at an elevation of some 1,80( feet. The ascent of these hills took over an hour, and w( descended thence into a valley, with vineyards and cultivatioo, and a little wood, but for the most part barren. At a distance of sixteen miles from Kuuy Sanjak we passed a village called Susa, with a rivulet; and twenty-two miles from the same plac*e we came to a 'derbend' or pass, so narrow as just to allow space for a bridle-path and a stream of water. This pass was defended by a small castle, said to have been built by the rebellious Bey of Rawanduz in 1834. There was another castle of similar character, square with round towers at the angles, about four miles to the north-west. On issuing forth from the * derbend ' we found ourselves in a village called Bumaspan, where we took up our quarters with the hospitable Kurd peasants.
We left the hilly country at this point to enter upon the hot plains — the abomination of the Kurds, who, accustomed to the pleasant breezes, clear air, and green vegetation of tbeii hills, cannot bear the dust and heat of the lower country. Here, as all along to the east of the Tigris, from Nineveh tc SuHa, the rocks crop out in the plain only as low continuous bare ridges, chiefly of red sandstones. There were, however many pretty flowers in this warmer country, beautiful irises dwarf pinks, green asphodel, and almond-trees in full blossom It took us a six hours' ride (a distance of some twenty-on< miles) to cross the plain and rocks to Arbil, having descendec from an elevation of 2,200 to 742 feet — the altitude of Arbi on its stony plain of red sand and gravel.
The moimd of Arbil is unquestionably one of the mos extensive in the country, and, crowned as it is by a castle, i has a very imposing aspect. Neither it nor its castle sur passes Kirkuk ; but the latter is a rock — Arbil is probabl;
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 507
mainly artificial. Eich believed it to be a burial-place of APPX. the Arsacidae. It is about l.:0 feet high, and 300 or 400 . ^'_-
jards in diameter. The town of Arbil is situated principally Town of on the south side of the mound, and was once as large as ^^^^ modern Bagdad. Some portion of the town is situated on the mount, or in what is called the castle. Arbil contains the usual mosques, baths, caravanserais, and bazaars. On the east, a little to the north of the town, is a hollow called the Valley of Tchekunem, where it is said Tamerlane's tent Tcheku- was pitched when he besieged Arbil. A holy sheikh of Arbil ^«°^^^«7 struck a panic into his army, which began to disperse ; and Tamerlane is reported to have cried out in Persian, * Tche- kunem?' that is, ^What shall I do?' and this gave name to the valley or hollow.
Saturdiiy^ Fehimai^ 25. — Our road lay now over a com- paratively level plain, the seat of many historical events of jreat interest. We were reapproaching the line of retreat of Line of the Ten Thousand Greeks, which we had parted from at the r,ha^^ Vahr-wan, and we were upon the scene of Alexander the retreat. jrreat's triumphs over Darius, more than three centuries ifterwards. From these remote times to the present the fine )pen plains, extending between the Tigris, the Great Zab, and he rocky hills to the east, have been the scene of numberless •onflicts and struggles for power and dominion. Above all, ^e were approaching the great centre of Assyrian pomp and pride.
A ride of twelve miles took us to the village of Kurda- Shabir, evidently once a town ; three miles beyond wajs the nllage of Tub-su, and two miles farther the Great Zab. This Great Zab river was crossed, like the Little Zab, by means of rafts on "^®^* skins, and the ferrymen were Yezidi or Izedi Kurds, dwelling at Kelek Izidi, or the ' Izidi's ford,' on the left bank, the village of Kafra being on the right bank. The river was not more than 400 feet in width, but from two to three fathoms deep, mth a rapid current. The Great Zab carries, indeed, an enormous body of water to the Tigris, yet it is fordable at jeveral places at certain seasons of the year. It also abounds in fish, and is hence much resorted to by pelicans and cormo- rants.
Sunday, February 26. — Travelled eight miles to the River
508
MB. AISSW0BTH8 JOUKXBT TO COSSTANTISi
KhikliR, the Bumadiis of the historians of Alexander and seven miles faolber came to the Christiau Kara-Kush and Karmaliasi, the last of which has ti6ed by some with the Guagamela (or Gangam Macetiouiana. Strabo states that the word Gangai - * Camel's bouse,' and that it was so called beeai gave the place for support and uourisbment of i camels, which was much wearied with the marc of the two forms admits of explanation : the i be derived from Khan or Khaneh, the second fro place.' DartUB left his baggage and treasure at A lie advanced to give battle beyond tho Lycus to The Great Zab was called the Lycus, or wolf, and Zab the Caprus, or goat, from some fanciful peci their modes of proceeding. Xenophon, however. Greater Zab,Z&batus, and the Khazir, or Gomar- (t was Bimply designated as a valley made by a ton was, however, at the low season, and wbeu the G able to ford the River Zab, not (as I first suppose! Kupar, higher up than Kelek Izidi, but at a ford by l^yard betow Kelek Izidi, and yet above the _ the Kha2tr-sii.t
We stopped at the Chaldean village of Bir younger son,' ezpressive of a village more recent luuliftfi; and being Sunday we attended divine ser was performed within the enclosure, but outride o of the only exii^ting church. BirtuUi boasted once churches, hut two are now in ruins. An old man a acar on his forehead, the relics of a wound which hail received in defending the sacred edifices. T pictures within the church. Outside, the men 8to< the women in the rear, and all joined vociferoi bvmiia. The cultivation around these Chaldean v U'tter attended to than any I had Been before, yet |M<«t;au)ts had much to contend against, the soil bei: with minH^M, Ononu or restharrow, and the 1 li'jityirlti:iu or liquorice plant. The villages t lut-dans, on the Assyrian plain, are all built o:
• Arahi. ivi. :>7.
t ' CUaunraUuT- m thr AnabMia of XempboB,* attached la t V.'«»a»'* - Attkbalk.' ^ SiH. (Baha. ISM.)
MB. AINS worth's JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 509
Chaldean Christian villages of stone, but they are also in a APPX.
I Tcry ruinous condition, , '_-
: We rode fourteen miles from Birtulli to Mosul, on Arrival at
£ TUF **1
h Monday, February 27. As Mr. Rassam's relatives lived at ^" * this place, and he had not seen them for many years, we remained here till Friday, March 17, during which in- terval I occupied myself in making a reconnaissance of the mounds of Nineveh; in a trip to Nimrud, at the junction of the Tigris and Zab, the scene of Mr. Layard's subsequent important archaeological explorations ; in examining the sul- phur springs near Mosul, exploring the town itself, and determining the character of the surrounding country, as far as Ain-el-Safra, or ' the yellow spring,' and the remarkable mountain mass known as the Jebel Maklub — the Mons Nicator of Alexander's historians. It is but due to Mr. Rich, to say that he was one of the first to carry on archaeological explorations in the mounds of Nineveh ; but his researches Researches were mere scratches in the soil, compared to what has since °^^*** been accomplished by the industry of Monsieur Botta and Layarf. Mr. Layard. The various questions connected with the re- treat of the Ten Thousand, in this part of the country, have been treated of in my * Travels in the Track of the Ten Thousand,' and the geological results have appeared in my 'Researches in Assyria,' &c. — both works emanating from enquiries made mainly in the course of the Euphrates Expe- dition, and published under the auspices of General Chesney. The difficult questions that have arisen from the various readings of the * Inscriptions,' by Sir Henry Rawlinson, Dr. Elincks, and Mr. Layard, in reference to the Assyrian and Biblical names of Nimrud, have been discussed in the * Com- mentary,' subsequently published, and attached to the Rev. J. S. Watson's edition of the * Anabasis.' Some account of Mosul. Mosul has also been given in my * Travels in Asia Minor,' &c., which contain the results of an expedition, sent by the Royal Greographical Society and the Society for Promoting Chris- tian Knowledge, to the Chaldean or Nestorian Christians in JTorthern Kurdistan. My companion, Mr. Rassam, was sub- Mr. C. A, lequently appointed British Vice-Consul at Mosul, and he has ^^**™- jhown, by his intimate knowledge of the resources of the jountry, that there is an opening for several English com- nercial houses at this great emporium of Kurdistan and the
ri
510 MB. aixsworth's journey to Constantinople.
APPX. central Tigris His brother Hormuzd became Mr. Layard
._^}' _^ right-hand man in his explorations, and subsequently receive
Mr. Hor- ^n appointment at Aden. He was sent on a mission to Abjj
Kauam. sinia in 1865, where he eventually shared the captivity c
those victims of the Emperor Theodore's caprice, whos
liberation he had hoped to effect,*
Crossing the River Tigris, and issuing forth by the nortl gate of Nineveh, we at length effected a start on Friday March 17, and, accompanied by Mr. Rassam's friends, reacbec Tel-Kaif. the Chaldean village of Tel-Kaif. A species of scorzonera or tragopogon abounded on the plain at this season of the year, and afforded a large succulent root, which, dressed like asparagiLs, constituted a wholesome and delicious food.
We got off betimes the next morning, passing, at 3^ miles, Takiyah, an Arab village with tents ; at 4^ miles beyond that Jonrney to Kaiki, a large village of Mussulmans, with about 100 huts ^^*^* and numerous storks : then Binara, a small village of about 20 houses (3^ miles) ; Hansiyan, an Arab village of 50 bouses; Tel iiaspi, another village of Arabs ; Bash-ak, * Head of white water,' a village of 70 houses, with an oleander-clad rivulet, and a ridge of sandstone hills beyond. On the other sid^ Baydiya, then a whole group of villages of IzTdi Kunk including Bahdinan, Kraypa, Rubar, Ta-uk, and Dalib. We put up at the last of these, having ridden some thirty mite Most of these villages were adorned with tombs or propitia tory monuments characteristic of the Izidls, and which hac square bases with conical tops — the latter tapering to a point at first in horizontal circles, and then fluted vertically. Thi monastery of Rabbeh Hormuzd, at the foot of the hills to th( right, constituted a remarkable object during part of thi day's ride, and we could distinguish the ruins of Eskimo * our Mosul (which I visited on a subsequent occasion), oi the right bank of the Tigris.
We were detained all Sunday, March 19, at Dalib, by continuous downpour of rain ; the next day was no bettei but we nevertheless pushed on, by — first a village calle Kawass, inhabited by Slivanl Kurds; secondly, the village < Urfik ; and, thirdly, the village of Aa, to, finally, the village < Turkasha, where we put up for the night (Tuesday, Man
* Mr. Hormiisd Raesam has returned to England with Sir Robert Napie expedition.
MR. AINBWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 511
21). If we had reason to complain yesterday of the uniformity APPX.
of the road, we were rewarded this day by a picturesque ascent . .J — .
of the Jebel Abiyad, or * White Mountains,' with rocky acclivi- Scenery of â– * ties wooded at points, and with the fruit-trees of our orchards, Abhad. including pear and apple, growing wild and in full bloom. It took us exactly an hour to reach the crest of the range, md we found the country to be broken up, well wooded, and well watered. The vegetation consisted chiefly of ilex, or dwarf evergreen oak, with some juniper, mimosas, flowering almond and laburnum, and oleander along the course of the rivulets. With the water rendered more abundant by the recent rains, the mass of verdure, and the many flowering plants, the scene in this limited rocky region was one of ex- ceeding beauty.
Zakhu, with its lofty castle rising out of the huts of the Castle of peasantry, is still what it was in the days of Xenophon, a ^*^"* palace or chieftain's stronghold, with (as in feudal times) a few cottages grouped around it. The population was given to me as 300 houses of Mohammedans, 100 of Izidis, 12 of Jacobite Syrians, and 5 of Chaldeans. The Christians had two churches, that of the Virgin Mary and that of St. George, the latter being now in ruins. The Khabur river is crossed River by a bridge of three arches, built on rocks about half a mile ^^*^^- east of the town. It is nearly 30 feet high, and the arches have a span of 40 feet. The river forms rapids at this point. Travelling over the grassy plain— the old *Eomaion Ager' — the ensuing day (Wednesday, March 22) we came to another river at a distance of eight or nine miles, called the Khazil, where we had to be ferried over on rafts — a very dilatory proceeding. The current was so rapid that, although not Rapid above 60 feet in width, the rafts were carried down some ^""S?^ ^t
the Khazil.
distance before a landing could be eflfected. We did not, in consequence of the delay thus incurred, get beyond the small Chaldean village of Tel Kabbin, which had a church in ruins, the interior of which looked more like a dungeon than a place of worship.
The next day we left this splendid plain, which is hemmed JebolJudl. in by the Jebel Abiyad on the one side, the Jebel JiidT — one of the traditional resting-places of the Ark — on the other, is backed by snow-clad mountains, and terminates at its widest end on the River Tigris, and kept along the banks of the latter
512
MR. AINSWOETH S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
APPX. XL
CAStleof Rubtfa.
Je^rmb- ibn-Omar.
An in- cident of the journey.
river to Jezirab-ibn-Omar. Tbe plain was dotted witb villages,
and tliere were several Kurdisb castles at the foot or od the
slopes of tbe distant hills. The point where the hills came
down to the riverside was in particular defended by a fine
old castle, called fiubara or RabahT, within which was anotiier
ruinous structure of more recent times. This appears to be
the Rabdium of the Byzantines and Tur Babdin of the Jlhan
Numa, in the neighbourhood of which was the ' Romaion
Ager.' The Khabur and Khazil rivers unite, before flowing
into the Tigris, to form the Pir-e-Khabiir or Plr-i-Shapur.
The ruins of an ancient bridge are seen crossing the Tigris a
short distance below Jenrah-ibn-Omar.
The fortified town or castle which bears the latter name is situated at the foot of the hills, and below the point where, as Xenophon graphically described it, the craggy mounts of the Karduchians hung over the river. It has, from the peculiarity of its position, at the first pass up the river south of the mountains, been at all times a strategical point of importance to each successive dominant power. The Beit Zabda of tlie older Chaldeans and Syrians, the Romans modi- fied its name into Bezabde, and the Khalif Omar constructed the bridge or dyke which left to the place its present name, A curious incident occurred on our approach to Jezirah. The road lay on the slope of the hills, with a precipitous clitr on the left, and then a long stretch of gravel and verdure to the river. I got off my horse to examine the cliff, and descended to its base. I was soon rewarded hy finding a cave with a deliciously cool spring of water withia The temperature was 66**, showing a difference of 5** in the mean annual temperature between Sulaimaniyah and Al-Jezi- rah. A little farther on I found among the rocky dibris al the foot of the precipice a spinning-wheel, then a coppei pot, and soon a whole collection of domestic utensils, had never seen such geological specimens before, and wa filled with wonder. The explanation only presented itsel ailer joining the rest of the party, when we met the in habitants of Mansuniyah — a Christian village on the lei bank of the Tigris — in full flight with the remainder of the' household lares and penates. The Kurds, they said, wei upon them. We persevered onwards, nevertheless, but a litt!
MB. AIXSWORTH's journey TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 513
beyond the village we came up with some mounted and APPX. araied men — clansmen of the Nestorian tribes — who had . .
come down to give the alarm. They told us it was impossible to continue on our projected road through the mountains by Fenik (a line of country I traversed upon a subsequent occa- sion), as the Kurds were up in arms ; so we had no alternative but to retrace our steps and cross the river to Jezirah. These mountain warriors were well-dressed, well-accoutred, and re- markably fine men.
Jezirah stands on a peninsula or island of the river, whence Jennh. its name, hut its old Roman walls climb up the precipices in the rear. It is a miserably poor place at the present day, with few inhabitants and no trade. The rocks are here of volcanic origiD, and the whole extent of country beyond to Tel Sa- Kban, a distance of 39 to 40 miles, was of a similar charac- ter— a bare, bleak, stony region, with little vegetation and no Cultivation or inhabitants. Wolves that were prowling among the loose stones close by us seemed to be as unconcerned at Our presence as the hyenas are in Southern Persia. This stony region was bounded to the north by the Ba'arim hills —the ancient Masius — also of volcanic origin. These hills, which do not attain an elevation of above 800 feet above the uplands, advance in a westerly direction to near Nisibin, when they turn off by Dara towards Mardin, uniting with the Jebel Tur.
Beyond Tel Sa-Khan, however, the volcanic rocks are succeeded by limestones, on a knoll of which was a castle formerly inhabited by a noted robber named Halilah, but who was made prisoner by Eeschid Pacha and sent to Con- stantinople. Beyond this castle the hills lower rapidly down to the Plain of Nisibin, which was the chief scene of the Plain of exploits of the freebooting chieftain, being the line of the ^^*^'"- highroad from Constantinople to Bagdad. Descending upon this plain, we arrived in the evening of Sunday, March 26, at the ruins of what was once the chief city of Mygdonia, and long an advanced outpost of the Romans against the East. It is first mentioned in history under the name of Antiocheia, in the march of Antiochus against the Satrap Melon ;^ in the later wars between the Romans and Parthians
* Polyb., T. 61.
514
MR. AINSWORTU'S JOURNEY TO OONSTANTIKOFL]
Ancient biitory of NisibiD.
Ruins of
anciont
Nifibir.
11
Invrip- tioo in u church.
it waA constantly taken and retaken. Thus it was wree Lucullus from the brother of Tigranes, after a long which lasted the whole summer,* but according to PI towards the close of the autumn, without much resi from the enemy. Again it was taken by the Romans Trajan, and was the cause of the title of * Parthicus,' the Senate decreed to that emperor.f If, as is suggea (feneral Chesney, Trajan built his boats here to desc tlie Ix>wer Euphrates by the Mygdonius, they must ha? very small, for the river is a mere streamlet. It, ho receives large tributaries a little farther to the soutl and that may have been the point in question. I appears to have been subsequently besieged by the C (people of Orfah) and other tribes who had revolted, bi were subdued by the arms of Septimus Severus. I l>ecame on this occasion the head-quarters of Severus.} this period, it appears to have remained, with Bezabde Tigris, an advanced outpost of the fiomans, till it w rendered to the Persians on the treaty which was mad that people by Jovian after the death of Julian.§
The ruins of ancient Nisibin occupy au area of a pquare mile. They are, however, mere fragments of bui Five columns alone stand erect. Two have Corinthiai tals, and still support an entablature. One has a capit tumbling off — the other two are broken. An old Ch church, called Mar Yakub, had luckily preserved son specimens of Roman sculpture in its structure. I here a mutilated inscription, as well as the circums would permit : —
+ + ANHPEx X HO+ + +TIC x
HPIONIONIOYXOx x
nPGC X XTG€OY Ol
OnOYCnOVAHAK€YYMAT X X DYCAOXENXBPO x x
T€NAT€AYnOONU)N x x x x
noNTOvey
Near the monastery was a more modern mosque, de< to Zin-al-Abidin, Hhe best of hermits,' although not tl
* Dion Cassius, xxxt. C. 7. t Ibid. UvuL 2«.
♦ Ibid. Ixxr. 2, 3.
§ Zosim. iii. 33 ; Amm. Mak
MR. AINSWORTH'S JOUBNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 515
re had met with on our travels who was so desigDated. An APPX.
Irab village occupied the south-east comer of the ruins, and . ^' .
m the modem highway was a caravanserai, a small bazaar,
kod a few houses which seem, from subsequent experience, to
ye inhabited or teuantlefs according to the state of the
»untry, whether in peace or in rebellion. Nisi bin was once
:he centre of a very extensive trade, and one of the great Trade of
smporia for the merchandise of the East and West.* How *" "*'
t has fallen off, like all the other great cities of the East,
inder the misrule of the Mahommedans I It may be said
:hat the change of lines of commerce may have had as much
to do with the decline of the place as misrule ; but Nisibin is
still upon a highway of trade, which would be much more
frequented if even tolerably safe. As it is, what between
the Kurds of the Ba'arim Hills, the Izidis of the Singar, and
the roving Arabs, all of whom look upon merchants as their
lawfiil prey, it is necessary to travel in a body or caravan be-
i^ween Mardin and Mosul to secure a safe transit.
We rode the next day (Monday, March 27) across the plain and then into the hills to Dara, where a modem village viUageof iflFording'us accommodation for the night, we spent the after- ^*™* aeon in a rough reconnaissance of the ruins. These are indeed rery extensive, owing probably to the combined causes of the edifices having been constructed of compact limestone or marble, and to their being in the hills, removed from the high- way. The chief ruins are — first, the acropolis, situated at the highest part of the town, having the modem village of Dara in front, or south of it, and three large cistern by the side. The river of Dara, a tributary to the Mygdonius, flows past River of the hill to the south, where are the remains of an ancient ^*™' dam and reservoir. It then flows through the walls which start from the foot of the acropolis hill in a westerly direction, curving round to the south to flow out by another water-gate. The remains of a bridge are met with immediately above the gate ; below and outride the gate is a mill. Close by to the west is the principal gateway or entrance to the city, the road leading to the bridge. Near the gate is a handsome and massive tomb. The slope of the hill below the acropolis is
* Julian * Orat.' i. p. 27 ; JuBtin * Excerpt, e Legat.* p. 173 ; Procop. * Bell. Persic' i. 11.
L L 2
I
I
m U. AEESV<»TH3 JOrVXEf TO C0S5TA5TI50PI
A? ?X. «oTfred vHli miie of booses, aod beyMtd tbp river we - RnKtnra bekxiviDZ to a MabomiDedaD town, whi< Kadex «xifte<l vrtciQ the precinctt of utcieiit Dais. These ?^^°^ a m-^KOie «:ta mioareliT a maiuioD mud a tower, : par: r4 Tb« hill termiutes in low c]iBs over the wall. ^-.C* are dotted witb sepulchral grottoes. There lytx*. •wren iiiQare and thi«e circular, befween waier-ca^es. aivl ooe cirmlar tower bevond ; but o tQiure towers west of the eenttal water-gate, and at tb' w«s< fsticmity o{ tbe wall are the niiiu of a temple, lar2« bttftioo in part cat in solid rock. In the f^:-nioa of the preeincta, niiiu of a Etill larger temp c4-M<f bf wfaiefa are some domed raultf, and at the this w^etitrlr hill are the remains of a large mansion c with what were 5npp>j«ed to be granaries, but wbi lure been baira^ks, in front. These last stmctures the chief entrance.
There ws? a Fmall vill^ie in the rear of the palace as in front of the acropolis. A qaarrr and sepulcbi t--«5 exifted (ome little distance to the eastward, but t necropolis was in the cliff!> to tbe westward, where we orer oOO tombs, manv of tbem grottoes with on fii^ades. Some of these were elaborately sculptui cj-prewes. birds, and other derices. They were e in ».>me instances Saseanian, for we found the usua of ^}d with wings and scroll, or Kasti, as also tfa seiitati<>ns of fire-temples. *>n one we read pi impnf^ mntUated infcripHoD— VITOKNAHE OK OVT ^P- and on another the woid MONHOI. The palac litter ruin, but the granaries or barracks had a vat trance 80 feet long, with three fllghto of steps in( apartment supported by four sqnare pillars with arcbi apartment was SO feet long by Io6 feet 19 inches wi recea°e« about 6 feet high. Hutcf7 of Dara — or Darae, as it b written by Procopius — p ^^"*- important part in the wars of the Lower Empire, ai Sassanian dynasty. According to the historian of th( wars, it was raised from a village to h city by the ! Anastasius, who gave it bis own name, and called it Ai polls. Procopins also gave a full account of the
1
MR. AINSWORTU'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE, 517
which Daras was fortified,* and which Gibbon has remarked APPX. may be considered as representing the military architecture ' _ .
of the age. Procopius also gives an account of a marvellous M^^^el- fountain of water, whose source, on a neighbouring height, tain, was in such a position that the supply could not be cut off by an enemy, while, at the same time, it was distributed through the town to the inhabitants by various channels, no one knowing whither it went on reaching the outer walls^f It is probable that the reservoir at the foot of the acropolis is here alluded to, for we have seen how the river turns from thence to run in a curious winding manner through the town. There may, however, be a rock-spring above the town which escaped our notice ; but if so, it would be at such a distance (^for we sketched the whole place) as not to be easily pre- vented being cut off by the enemy, whilst the reservoir provided a certain and defensible supply.
Procopius also mentions a series of combats which took Combats place under the walls of Daras, between the Romans under Romans £elisarius and the Persians, J by which the Romans maintained and the town, owing to the admirable military dispositions of Belisarius. Daras fell at last into the hands of the Persians during the reign of Justin II. (a.d. 574), after a memorable siege of six months by Chosroes II.§ The campaign of !Marcian took place in the eighth year of Justin, and the result of the fall of Daras was the disgrace of the general, a truce with the Persians, and the appointment of Tiberius as an associate in the empire.
Theophanes || says that the general who took Daras, and subsequently concluded the above-mentioned peace, was Hormuzd IV., who succeeded Chosroes. It is not a little curious that a writer in Smith's ' Dictionary of Greek and Soman Geography,' 1^ says D'Anville,** has tried, but we think in vain, to find any town or ruins which may mark the site of Daras. Surely the many who have travelled along the high-road from Bagdad to Constantinople must have seen the ruins of Daras, if only from a distance ?
♦ • Bell. Persic' ii. 13. § Theophyl. • Hist. Maur.' iii. 9, 10. t 'Bell. Goth.' iv. 7. || Ap. Phot. Cod. 64 ; Evagr. v. 8-10.
♦ » Bell. Persic' i. 13. 1| Art. 'Daras.'
** ♦ L'Euphrate et le Tigre,' p. 53.
MS UB. AINSWOBTH'S JOUBKBT to CONSTANTINOPLE
I
H AFPX. A Bhort ride of eighteen miles took as next diiy (Tu
B . ._^-:_- March 2'i) to Mardin. There were no Tillages on tt
^K VudiB. part of the jouroe;, but as we approached the hills, we '
^B Kur UanD-urth-a-tel, a village of Christians called i
R and a mosque with mioareh attached, which was designs
Kuzar or Koiar. On a Bubeequent occasion, keeping the high-road, we saw a ruined castle on the same called Kasr Buij, in which, according to a tradition r to us by a Chaldean bishop, a son of Darius once livei on the same plain, in front of Dara, wan a large gri known as Aubur Dara. There was a further castle Kasr Sir-khan. We found the three Persian princes- Mirza, Majaf Afirza, and Taiuiur Mirza — who bad beei visit to England, located at Mardin, on their wa; bi I H Bahdad, and we spent the evening with them, talki
'[ Farsistan.
f[ I 11. «»■«■- The next day (Wednesday, March 29) was devote
visit to a group of monasterieB, situated in a hilly and recess in the Jebel Tur, about four miles east of tfae The chief of these monasteries, once the residence celebrated historian Abu'l Faraj, was appropriately Dar-i-Safran, or the * yellow monastery,' from the col the surrounding summulitic limestones. Mar Gre Ahutfaragius, also called Gregorius Bar-hebrsua, was b ' I 1 226, at Malatiyah ; and after being Bishop of Aleppo, I
! elected Patriarch or Primate of all the Jacobite Christi
I ' the East, in 1266, when he resided at Dar-i-Safran.
f'l monastery was a spacious building, which contained
' churches - one dedicated to the Virgin Mary, another to'
t (St. James), and tiie third to ZizalL One, I believ
claimed by the Syrian Romanists, the other by the Jaa and the third by the Syro-Chaldeans. These churchei much ornamented, and we were also shown a vaidted cbi ] reserved for the sepulture of the patriarchs.
"^ CBlrndar There is preserved in this monastery a Calendar of E
1 ' ofEimtB. ^jijpj, jg written in three columns — one devoted to th<
' ' and ecclesiastical affidrs, another to history, and a th
philosophy and literature. It was begun by Abu'l Fa Syro-Cbaldean, the chapters being headed in Estran^ it was continued in Syriac, and latterly it is written in
I!
MIL AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE, 519
sboni^ or Arabic written in Syriac characters* It is the duty APPX of each successive patriarch to keep this record up to the - ^' . - times, but, considering the utter ignorance of the outer world in which these poor monks live, it must be a strange com- pilation. Mr. Bassam kindly copied for me the names of fourteen of the Kings of Nineveh, as recorded in this curious Kings of manuscript. These were: 1. Ninus, contemporary with Abra- Nineveh. bam ; 2. Damaus ; 3. Belaus, contemporary with Jacob ; 4. Mamlus, epoch of Egyptian bondage ; 5. Skatris ; 6. Amontis, epoch of Moses and of Ramsis (Rameses) in Egypt; 7. Alapris; 8. Seraperidus; 9. Susarius; 10. Sempirus; 11. Susarmus; 12. Metrus ; 13. Tutanis; 14. Totanus. This list woul'd puzzle Sir Henry Rawlinson, or even our friend Mr. Bosanquet.
Leaving Dar-i-Safran, we ascended the cliffs to Dar-i- Dar-i- Yakub, a mere series of galleries and grottoes hewn out of the perpendicular face of the rock ; in some of which the water, dribbling through the vaults, was collected in pear- shaped cavities, covered over with a single large stone. Not far from these untenanted hermitages, was another so-called monastery of the Holy Lady (Dar-i-SuyidT), similarly situated. There was a church attached to the latter, which we reached by a gallery hewn out of the face of the rock. It is still in use, but no monks lived in the grottoes. The gardens of the monks were disposed in terraces, and appeared to be well kept.
Between Mardin and Dar-i-Safran we passed a Christian Kalah village called Kalah Ma'arah, or 'woman's castle,' with a ^^'*â„¢b. church dedicated to St. George. The castle whence the village derives its name is now a ruin on a precipitous hill to the south, and to the north-east of the monastery was Dar-i- Kirikus, or the monastery of St. George, and the Christian village of Binabi. All these villages had their gardens and vineyards, and the peasants seemed as happy and cheerful as their rocky homes were pleasant and picturesque to look at.
We left Mardin the next day (Friday, March 31) by a Leave hilly country, the slopes often covered with ilex, the valleys * "** mostly cultivated, the course of the rivulets being marked by poplar and willow-trees, and the whole enlivened at this sea- son of the year by flowering almond-trees. We were, as usual^
520
MB. AIXSWORTH S JOURNEY TO CONST AOTIXOPLE.
APPX. XI.
Shoikli Khan.
detained in the morning, and only succeeded in effecting
five hours^ ride to Sheikh Khan^ a mere cayem, walled in ai
made to serve as a caravanserai, with a deserted village cloi
by. We travelled for two and a quarter hours next mornii
iHjfore we came to a village where we could get a draught t
milk. An hour farther was Khan Kajurin, and a little beyonc
Kuh Tuz, a village at a point where the country began t
open. The hills were less abrupt^ the valleys more exteDsir(
and cultivation more generaL The ruins of Kalah Dar-zuwa
occupied the summit of an adjacent hilL Passing Kbai
Kajuri, we came to Ak-bunar^ the * clear or white spring,
where we were to have put up ; but the khan being occupies
bv the Pacha of Mardin and his retinue, we rode aside to i
village called Tanspin Teppeh. From this point one of thos
stony uplands of volcanic origin, so common in Norther
Alesopotamia, extended all the way to Diyarbekr, a distanc
of eighteen miles, where we arrived on the afternoon of Sun
day, April 2. The bends of the River Tigris alone afforde
variety to the journey, and live miles from the city of Dijai
bekr we passed Sharukhi, village and mill, with a bridge
with the villages of Kajuri on the opposite side, and Kal
Kuuy to the north.
Diyarbekr stands upon basaltic rocks which rise hig and precipitously above the River Tigris, and on its ligi bank, is chiefly remarkable for its lofty well-built wall defended by towers, some of which are rectangular, othe semicircular. They are, however, of various sizes ai heights. On the east or river side, the walls are lower th£ elsewliere, being built upou the edge of a somewhat precip tous line of rock. The walls are also in a much l)etter coi dition in some parts than in others. As in most other Orient cities, the walls and towers appear to have been erected various periods, as seen by the fragments of old structur built into them. Some of the towers are ornamented i designs of lions and suns, and have Greek, Latin, and Ku inscriptions, commemorative, probably, of their respecti The gates, builders or repairers. The gates are four in number, and t very massive — the Dagh Kapi, or * Mountain gate,' on t north ; the Rum Kapi, or Roman gate, on the west ; t Mardin gate, on the south \ and the Yani' Kapi. or * New gai
Dijarbekr.
Its walls and towers.
KR. AINSWORTH's JOURXEY TO COXSTAXTIXOPLE. 521
on the east. The city contains about 57 jamis and musjids — APPX. the former, as before observed, being a superior description ^ . - of mosque, having one or more minarehs attached to it. There Mosques, is also a Chaldean church, the district of Diyarbekr being a Churches. Chaldean episcopate, and an Armenian church dedicated to Surp Gregorio, or Saint Gregory. Several ancient but ruined buildings are met with in the town, which also boasts of some large and handsome khans and baths. Hasan Pacha Khan, close to the great mosque, is especially a handsome building. One of the most curious monuments in Diyarbekr (ancient Amida) are the remains of what Texier deemed to be the ancient palace of Tigranes, afterwards occupied by Shapur II. The citadel occupies the north-east angle of the town, and The dta- has two gates. Within it is the serai', palace, or Pacha's • residence, a poor building. Adjoining the serai is a high rectangular tower, to which a mosque is attached, but which is itself supposed to have been the belfry of a Christian church. The town is supplied witli water from the westward by an aqueduct, which is carried through the walls between the Rum and Dagh Kapis. Close to this point, inside the town, is a tank, about five or six feet deep, formed by a spring issuing from the rock, and whicli contains fish which are deemed to be sacred — as at Orfah, Membij, and other places. We have now a resident consul at Diyarbekr. Mr. Taylor, Scientific the first consul, and Mr. Holmes, who succeeded him, have ^^P^o^o™- been both distinguished for their archaeological attainments ; and much has been done by the distinguished French archae- ologist, M. Texier, as also by Mr. Garden, assisted by M. Jaba, Russian consul at Erzerura, towards exploring the city and neighbourhood of Diyarbekr, and deciphering some of the numerous inscriptions.*
Hafiz Pacha, subsequently the unfortunate commander of Hafiz the Turkish army at Nizib, was busy, at the epoch of our visit, ^***^°*' making preparations for a campaign against the Sinjarlis, He was much interested with mineralogical enquiries; and having collected some of the sands of the river, which abound in iserine or magnetic iron, he was so delighted at seeing the facility with which the iron could be separated from the sand
• * Journal of the Royal Geographical Societ}',' vol. xxjiv. p. 21 ; voL zzxTii. p. 182 ; and ' Proceedingfi/ vol. ix. No. 11, and toI. xi. No. 11.
522
MK. AIKSWOBTH 8 JOURNBT TO OOySTASTVSOFUL
APPX. XL
Set out to risit the mine*.
Town of Arghftna.
by a. magnet, that he insiated upon our mounting at on and proceeding with him through the town and out of i Mardiu gate, down to the banks of the river, to see the ii in 9^iiu. He had also a collection of copper ores, includinj beautiful piece of malachite from the mines of Arghana ; a he was exceedingly anxious that I should remain in t country, and superintend the working of the copper-miD< but I did not feel myself, being at that time attached to t Euphrates Expedition, at liberty to accept the offer.
With Mr. Bassam's kind assistance I obtained some curie extracts from an old Chaldean and Arabic dictionary preserv in the Syrian church of Saint Bethune, as also from some c historical works, also preserved in the same monastery, one of these (Baluli's Dictionary) Calah was identified wi Al-Hadhr, ArbU with Rehoboth (Rehoboth-Ir), and Larii with Besen (Bochart's old identification).
We left Diyarl)ekr on Wednesday, April 5, provided wi horses and an official attendant by the hospitable Pacl to visit the mines, a courier having also been despatched advance. We were, as usual, late in getting away, and did i therefore arrive at our halting-place — Shirbat or ' Sherb Khan, also called Murad Sultan*s Khan — till two hours i^ dark. Our ride lay for five long hours over the same dres stony, volcanic country that led up to Diyarbekr from 1 south, and which probably stretches to the Karajia Tagh tlie west.
Beyond the khan the character of the country underw< an entire change, the volcanic rocks being succeeded by Ud stones, sandstones, and marls, which rise in successive ran] towards the culminating-point of Arghana. The town Arghana was, by barometer, at an elevation above the sea 3,074 feet; and on the same hill, called Kalah Dagh, * Castle hill,' was a sepulchral chapel, some 400 feet above i town, called Tul Kaphal, and said to contain the bones o holy Christian ; but, like the reputed tomb of the Prop) Jonah at Kineveh, and many others, claimed by the Moha medans. At the southern extremity of the hill was Armenian monastery of the Virgin Mary, ornamented ^ tiles as well as paintings, and with sculptures over the dc way. Arghana constituted our halting-place on Thursd
MB. AINSWOBTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 523
April 6, and on the 7th we rode to Madan Kapur, or the APPX. copper-mines^ the most productive of all in the Ottoman . . Empire. On our way we found the sedimentary formations much broken up by diallage rocks metamorphosed at places, and containing highly carbonised shales. It is, indeed, yery uncertain if lignite deposits do not occur in this part of the Taiurus which would be worth sinking for; but a minute account of the structure of the chain at this point is given, with detailed sections, in my ' Researches,' &c., and need not, therefore, be repeated here. Copper abounds to such an ex- Copper- tent in the mining district that we actually detected powerful â„¢"*^- veins of pyrites in the watercourses. The copper is transported hence to Tokat, to be smelted ; and it is not a little amusing to read in some speculative schemes for railways across Asia Minor, recently published, of the copper-mines of Tokat as among the incentives to investment. We spent no less than four days exploring the mines and the adjacent hills, in the latter of which I had strong hopes of meeting with depo- sits of lignite coal, but without success.
At length, on Wednesday, April 12, we started to con- tinue our journey, passing Khan Ujah (four hours from Arghana Madan) and the plain of Ali-uda to the beautiful lake called Kur-jik Kuli (ancient Colchis), which constitutes one of the sources of the Western Tigris. At its south-east extremity was a snow-clad mountain called Azara. Mr. Taylor has since discovered the true sources of the Tigris, or Somcei of its eastern branch, called Zibeneh, in a subterranean pas- Yi^Ib, sage or cave near Eggil (ancient Inghilene), as also memorial tablets of the Assyrian kings, the character of which has been explained by Sir Henry Rawlinson.* Mr. Taylor also claims to have discovered the oft-disputed site of Tigrano- certa at the ruins of Kefer-juz (pronounced Kafir-jQz), near the Jacobite town of Madiyat in the Msesius.
The westerly tributaries of the Tigris are divided from the waters flowing into the Euphrates by a ridge of hills, called, from the pass, Dawah Buaini, the crest of which attained, by Pass of barometrical observation, an elevation of 4,246 feet, or about ^?'^?- 700 feet above the lake. The dascent hence led us into the fine large cultivated plain of Kharput Dawassi, dotted with
* * Proce<>ding8 of the Royal Geographical Society/ vol. iz. No. 1 1.
i
524 IIB. AIXSWOBTUS JOUBNBT TO COSBTASTDSOP
APPX. Tillages, and cummunicating with another more limiti ^^- . out of which rose a bold and almost isolated rock, yt.. r„ the town and castle of Kharpiit on its summit. W the night of April 1 2 at the village of Kuuk, oti the Dawassi, and that of Thursday, April 13, at Kbarpi exploring the castle, the neigbbourtag ruins and v Sar-ik, and the barracks and modem erections on t below.
Cedrenua â– notices this ancient stronghold under t of XdgrroTf. It was called by the Syrians Khurtbia ville writes it Charblat ; Herbelot, Khartahist ; and J Hai'elbaret). There is every reason to believe it t< Curcftthiocerta of Straho (si. p. 527) and Pliny ( which was the capital of Sophene, one of the ca: Armenia. Mr. Taylor has also brought to light, Cnmding Armenian author, that the two crusading chiefs, Ba rcmiQi*- Boiirg, Connt of Edessa (Orfah), and JoceljTi de C having been made priMnera by Sickroan ihn Artuk, was imprisoned at Hesn Keyf, or Hisn Kaif (Krst br notice by Captain Lynch), on the Tigris, and Ba Mosul ; that, after being liberated, they were aga prisoners with Waleran, a kinsman of Jocelyn's, and were incarcerated at Kharpiit, whence they were set i by a valiant hand of Armenians of Behesni. Balak, j of Artuk, having recaptured the castle, he destroyed, ing to Matthew of Edesaa and Ahu'l Fada, all his p consisting of sixty-live men and eighty ' beautiful la throwing them over the battlements into the plain belo castle of Kharput has thus a melancholy interest attac even in the eyes of Europeans : and when we consider tl r^ions were the great battle-field between the Rou; Persians during the early centuries of the Christian < it was across these hilly districts that the frontier of kingdoms ran ; and that there were constant sieges and skirmishes and marches, along its whole exten have been partially recorded by the historians of tt Empire, its walls would, if tbey could speak, rehite ] many another sad and dismal story.
• 'Hial. Comp.' vol. ii. p. 686.
t * Jooraal of thr Boynl GeogTKphical Sodrty,' toL xkxt. p.
/
MR- AINSWORTH's JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 525
Friday y April 14. — Crossed the plain of Kul-wansh, with APPX. several villages buried in gardens and orchards, and a rivulet . .
in \X» centre, to KhutaJ ; and then came the next day to a narrow band of hornblende rocks, amid limestones which repose at Gumesh MaMan * silver-mines,' or Kapan Ma'dan, Gumesh as they are also called, upon mica and chlorite slates tilted up and Kapan by granite. The most productive silver veins are met with Ma'dan at the jimction of the mica schists and the limestones. The ™^'*^'* town of Kapar itself is situated on granite rock, below the mines and on the left bank of the River Euphrates. We spent two days here, thoroughly exploring the mines, from which we ob- tained many interesting minerals, among which were chlorides of silver and red sulphuret of silver and antimony. Our ex- plorations were not unaccompanied by danger, for the galleries were carried in places through steatitic clays and carbona- ceous marls without any proper support, and there were also large caverns in the rock with crystalline gypsum in drusic cavities. We also obtained sulphate of copper, carbonate of lead, and arsenates of lead, copper, and silver. These mines, which are at once numerous and extensive, were said to yield 13,000 maunds or 11^5,000 lbs. of lead, and 400 okas or 1,000 lbs. of silver annually. 130 maunds or 1,950 lbs. of ar- gentiferous galena were said to yield 2^ to 3 okas, 6 to 7 lbs. (6 okas to the maund) of silver. There were twelve furnaces.
Tuesday f April 18. — Crossing the Euphrates, which flows past the hills from N. 80° E. to S. 30° W., curving round nearly due south, we found ourselves still in a granitic coun- Granitic try with a lofty mountain, which had been long visible, called ^<^^*^- Azi Kur, to the NW. The granites were, however, soon suc- ceeded by limestones and chalk, with basaltic rocks ; and the country became more cultivated and dotted with villages, at one of which, called Kur-tchn, we put up for the night. The next day (Wednesday, April IP) was occupied in passing over the Kul Dagh, or * lake mountain,' volcanic, with lime- stones, and upon which were still many patches of snow; and then descending the same to the town of Arab Kir, or Arab Kail, as it is commonly called, a straggling place with a population of about 8,000 souls, of whom 6,000 are Arme- nians, consisting chiefly of cottages embosomed in orchards and gardens, with groves of plane, poplar, and willow.
MR. AINSWORTh's JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 527
jami of Diunk is one of the most beautiful specimens of the APPX. florid Saracenic that we had met with. The same edifice con- ^ ^^ . tained a * mihrab,' or pulpit, of excellent workmanship.
It took us the whole of Sunday, April 23, to cross the Oeological lofty Dumbugh Dagh, the country presenting so many features of the of geological and mineralogical interest that it was impossible country. to get on. First we had limestone, with a gi-eat variety of diall£^ rocks, containing oligiste or specular iron in sitH, so that what occurs in boulders in the valley might easily be wrought at the fountain-head ; then we had granitic and gyenitic rocks, one bed of the former of which, of a light pink colour, I found to be rich in disseminated gold. We stopped at the village of Siliski, situated on the Kumar Su, with Siliski. a bridge in the valley below, the inhabitants of which were engaged in smelting iron ore actually in their own houses.* The same afternoon I examined some hills to the north, of most varied structure, but chiefly steaschists and serpentines, with beds of diallage and actynolitic rock, in which I found veins of sulphuret of silver and curious pisolitic chalcedony. I never was in a country so rich in minerals, and only regret that I had not the means of testing the river-sands, which were rich in iserine, for gold, by means of quicksilver. If a mere hasty examination, such as I was able to give to it, produced such remarkable results, what might not be done by a more minute and careful exploration ? Every formation in the neighbourhood abounded in its own peculiar minerals; the granites in gold and precious stones, the steaschists and serpentines in silver ores, the limestones in iron, and the very watercourses were choked with useful minerals.
Beyond Siliski, these various rocks, so rich in minerals. Country were, however, succeeded by non-metalliferous gaps, beds ot ^°^^ gypsum, alternating with sandstones at the Valley of Sinjan, and extending all the way to Yarbasan and to the foot of the Kara Bel mountains — ^the ancient Paryadres. The mountain torrents, meeting with little or no opposition from these friable sedimentary deposits, often coursed through subterra- nean channels, passing beneath precipices and reappearing at short distances — sometimes falling in cascades into yawning
» The Kumar Su joins the river of Divrik, and together they flow into the Euphrates.
MB. AINSWOBTH'S JOUBNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 529
eloaks of oflSce to sundry Aghas, or governors of villages and APPX. districtfi — the ceremony being enlivened by the pranks of a /^' - fool, who shook a stick with bells attached to it. The scene Visit to was altogether more suggestive of the Middle Ages than of '^® Pacba. the nineteenth century. Hafiz Pacha and Izzet Mohammed Pacha, of Angora, were men far more in advance of their time than the Pacha of Sivas. The town or city — which was said, in round numbers, to contain 5,000 Mohammedan and 1,000 Armenian houses — does a considerable business in cereals, which constitute the chief produce of the plain ; for at an elevation of nigh 5,000 feet above the level of the sea neither mulberries, grapes, nor pomegranates were said to flourish.
The old wells of the city no longer exist ; but there are Castel- ruins of two castles of different epochs, one of which appears ^^^^ to have belonged to the Kings of Pontus, to have been strengthened by the Somans, and dilapidated by the wars with the Mohammedans, who again built it up on former ruins ; the other is a ruder structure, apparently of the Osmanli era. There is also a large Christian monastery, which was erected to celebrate the well-known martyrdom of the • Forty of Sivas.'
Sivas was, it is necessary to observe, the ancient Sebasteia, Sivas. which, being near the frontier, Pliny regarded as not be- longing to Pontus, but to Colopene in Cappadocia.* The town existed, as a small place, before the dominion of the Bomans in these parts, but its ancient name is unknown. The present one is a corruption of Sebaste, just like the well- known Suez, or Sivas, on the Red Sea. Pompey increased the town, and gave it the name of Megalopolis; f and during the imperial rSgime it appears to have risen to coDsiderable importance, so that in the later division of the Empire it was made the capital of Armenia Minor. It is also mentioned as a large and flourishing town of Cappadocia in the time of the Byzantine Empire ; and the Emperor Justinian is described by Procopius J as having restored its walls.
The identity of Sebasteia with the modern Sivas is esta- Ancient blished partly by the resemblance of names, and partly by the
» Pliny, vi. 3 ; Ptol. v. 6, § 10; Ilicruc. p. 702; 8t Antonin. pp. 204, 206. t Strab. xil p. 560. t 'i>o iEdif.' iii. 4.
M M
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 531
tenanted by innumerable pigeons. We passed the night at APPX. the village of Bulaz, and had but a short ride, the next day, to
the beautiful town of Tokat, embosomed among wood-clad hills, the houses stretching out amid gardens and orchards, with the fiue open and cultivated valley of the Yashil Irmak (or Iris) beyond, and several castellated buildings on the hills around.
Seen from the south, or from the valley of Iris, Tokat, with Tokat. its ruined castle picturesquely situated on a steep ridge of limestone rocks to the west, and the whole town, with its pretty houses, with tiled roofs, stretching up a lateral valley, and extending into other valleys which diverge in various directions, embosomed in gardens, presents even a still more striking appearance. The town appeared to Hamilton to be mean and dirty ; but coming, as we did, from Sivas, it did not 80 impress us, either now, or on a subsequent visit made to the game place.* The Bazistan, or chief bazaar, is solidly built of stone. The population is variously estimated. The Christians Itapopula- are, however, in greater number than the Mohammedans ; it is ^^°* supposed that there are about 1 ,000 Armenians and Greeks to 800 Mohammedans. This, however, seems to be rendered doubtful by the fact that the latter have some fifteen james and mashids (small mosques), whilst the Armenians have only one good church. There are several fine old khans and hammams or baths. The steep and craggy pinnacles of the castle rock are surmounted by fragments of ruined battle* Ruins. ments and towers, and on the southern scarp are several natural and artificial caverns — probably sepulchral grottoes. A flight of steps is found halfway up, penetrating into the centre of the mountain, probably to a reservoir ; and we found several great stone cannon-balls lying about at the foot of the rock.
It is not certain what ancient place Tokat represents. Ancient Strabo described the Iris as flowing through Comana Pontica '^^^^• and the fertile plain Daximonitis, and then turning to the north atGaziura(Turkhal). In the book on the Alexandrine War (c. 35), a lofty range of hills, covered with forests, is said to extend from Pontic Comana to Armenia Minor. This description would correspond to the position of Tokat, but
♦ • Travelfl in the Track of tho Ten Thousand/ vol. ii. p. 17.
I
532 Ml. AI5SVrOBTH*S /OUHNET TO 0DN8TAKTIN0PL]
APPX- Hamilton • discovered remains of an ancient town and ^ ^y ^ on the Iris, higher up than Tokat, and which, being * Gumenek ' (Kiimanak ), have been adopted as repref Cumana. Tokat may represent Talaura, a mountain i in Pont us, to which Mithridates withdrew with hu precious treasures, which were afterwards found th< Luciilluawt
Its modem name is, however, derived fix)m the Ei Eudocia, during whose widowliood, and the minority sons, Comana fell into the hands of .the Turks, against Diogenes Romanus sent an army, under Ruselius, and quently under other generals. It is found in many ol( marked as Eudoxiaria and Eutochia. Tokat evidenl came a place favoured by the Turks, for we find one chiefs, called Ahmid Allah-id-Kn, styling himself Sul the time of Bayand. In the year 1471 Yusuf Bey, a g of Uzun Hasan, Prince of Kaisariyah, invaded the disi Tokat, but he was defeated by Mustafah, a Seljukiyan g I J Tokat ultimately fell into the hands of the Osmanlis
Itime of iSelim I.} Cultirmtcd Wednesday, May 3. — We enjoyed the (to us) rare * Talley. ^f riding for an hour beyond Tokat in a valley with
road, houses, gardens, and mulberry plantations, which have reminded us of the best parts of Europe, but tha were no smiling peasantry to gladden the scene ; the were not \'isible, and as to the few peasants met wit! had a scowling and discontented appearance. Yet is 1 place much favoured by nature ; it produces silk, and variety of fruits and vegetables, and the Armenians facture a very fair wine — a thing we had not tasted si left Bagdad, although we got raki at Diyarbekr, and rosoglio at Sivas. Aken Passing over the Aken Tagh, chiefly mica-slates an(
*^" stones, covered with oak and pine, we entered valley plane, beech, and alder trees, and occasional pear, app medlars. These, however, grew apart, and not in affecting particular localities. Afl^r six hours' rather la Sar-fou. travel we arrived at Sar-pTn, inhabited by charcoal-l
•
s*,
* ' Bebearches m Assyria,' &c. toI. i. p. 450.
t Dion Cawins, jjlxv. 14 ; Appian. Mitlirid. p. 115.
} AJ>. 1514; Hejtra 921.
0
MR. AIXSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 533
This village alone was said to supply the copper furnaces of APPX. Tokat with 15,000 loads of charcoal annually ; but upwards - ^' _■of 65,000 loads were said to be contributed by the woody region we had been travelling over, and which is known as the Katan Dawassi — ancient Daximonitis.* We made a lateral excursion hence, by a picturesque and wooded ravine, to the village of Ksurdavin, where, according to report, a gold- mine had been recently discovered. It turned out, however, to be merely mica, or talc, which assumed an unusual appear- ance at this place.
Thursday^ May 4. — Our way lay along the same beautiful liilly and wooded country, with open, cultivated, and well- watered plains and valleys, 21 miles to Turkhal, a small place Turkhal. of about 500 or 600 houses, remarkable for its ruinous castle, situated on the top of an isolated hill of limestone. The gateways of this castle consist of large blocks of stone, the linteb), side-posts, and threshold being formed each of a single block. The ruins are, however, apparently of a late period. A flight of stairs leads here, as at Tokat and Amasiyah, to a subterranean well or reservoir. Hamilton, who pictured this place in his work, identifies it with Gazioura, an ancient royal residence, and described by Strabo as being near the spot where the Iris, after flowing through the rich plain of Daximonitis, turns towards the north. Dion Cassius also notices the same place as the stronghold where Mithridates took up his position against the Boman Triarius.f
Following the valley of the Yashil Irmak, or * Green River,* for about three miles, we turned up a narrow valfey for about seven miles farther, and then crossed a ridge by a road in part cut through the rock (Uzun Bughaz), and where was a guardhouse with five soldiers, and implements of torture hanging over the door, as if the soldiery united the functions of policemen and magistrates. We descended hence into a Village of cultivated valley with several villages, in one of which (called ^*°i^ Asin Burghu) we put up for the night, having ridden alto- gether thirteen hours.
The next day (Friday, May 5), it took us two hours to
• Strabo, xii. 547; Dion Cassius, xxxv. 12.
t Ibid. It is called Kashan Kalahsi Id the ' Jihan Numa.'
MR. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE 535
the other to the neck ; there are bridges over the river — one APPX. from the city to the suburb, and another from the submb to . .
the neighbouring country, for at the point where this bridge is the mountain which lies above the rock terminates.'
Hamilton explored the acropolis and tombs, and he ex- Hamilton's plains * the five or six stadia to mean the length of the road J^^e^^^^^- by which alone the summit can be reached, and which is cir- cuitous. The same traveller, however, erroneously follows Cramer f in giving the version, * the summits have on each side a very narrow neck of land,' for the words * on each side ' refer to the ascent to the 'neck,' as Groskurd and Long correctly understand it. Hamilton found two Hellenic towers, of beautiful construction, on the heights, which he considered to be the Kopv<f>ai of Strabo. But the greater part of the walls now standing are Byzantine or Turkish. Indeed, we learn from Procopius f that Justinian repaired them.
Hamilton also explored a passage cut in the rock, down which he descended, about 300 feet, to a small pool of clear cold water. The other gallery, he says, was not excavated in the rock, but was built of masonry above-ground, yet equally well concealed. The tombs are five in number, three to the west, and two to the east. Considerable remains of the old Greek wells, which Strabo describes as forming the peribolus or enclosure of the royal tombs, still exist, as also a square tower, built in the best Hellenic style. Hamilton also found the front wall of an old morgue to be built of ancient cornices, friezes, and architraves, as also fragments of Greek inscrip- tions, deep cut in large letters.§
The population of Amasiyah is said to consist of from 3,000 Population to 4,000 Turkish houses, 750 Armenian, and 100 to 150 gfy^*" Greek. Silk is the staple production, and 50,000 ' okas ' are said to be annually exported, the price being about lOs. 6d. a pound. Cloth and leather are also manufactured, but the bazaars are small and poorly supplied.
It is but a short ride of six hours — although reckoned eight Jonrney to
Tlf X - r L ill L
by postmasters, and to be paid for as such — from Amasiyah to '™*"*^''-
♦ • Residence in Asia Minor/ &c., i. 366. t Ibid. i. 302. \ ' De 2M\i: iii. 7.
§ The medisBval history of Amasiyah is given in the ' Kesearches in Assyria, &c. vol. ii. p. 26 ct 8cq.
ME. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 537
as the Takiya of Hajji Baba, or the ^Tomb of the Pilgrim APPX. Father.' . ^- .
It ifl a pleasant ride — charged as eight post-hours, but not Routefrom above sixteen miles — from Osmanjik to Haji-Hamsah, along ^smanjik. the left bank of the Halys, with wooded and picturesque clififs on the one side, and verdure or cultivation, extending down to the river, on the other. At Haji-Hamsah the road leaves the river to pass through the hills by a narrow * derbend,' or pass, which presents the remarkable peculiarity of enabling the traveller to reach the low country beyond without any change of level. As the same hills extend, under varioifs names, with but few breaks, or solution of continuity, to the south of the Sea of Marmora, any railway projected to be carried across Asia Minor should keep to the high-road to this point, whence, by following the wide and open valley of the Halys, it could gain the central uplands by a graduated and easy ascent.
Haji-Hamsah is a curious place, with about 500 cottages, ^*J^" many cofifee-houses, a khan, a *jami' with minareh, post- house, a diminutive bazaar, guardhouse, and Agha's residence. Beyond the town a modern fort nearly blocks up the pass. The road issues forth beyond the pass into the valley of the Divrik Chai, fertile and productive in rice, cereals, and fruit, and with many villages ; it preserves the same characters^ only deeply intersected at places by mountain torrents, as far as the town of Tusiyah, a place of some importance. Patches of snow still lay on the mountains, both to the north and south. Those to the north were designated as Al-Kuz (Olgassys), and to the south Kush-Tagh, or ^ Bird Mountains.' Near the town is a high artificial mound, possibly the site of the castle in which Diogenes Somanus took refuge when liberated by Sultan Hasan, during the prevalence of the faction of Michael. At that time Tusiyah was called Docia. It first fell into the hands of the Seljukiyan Turks in the time of Manuel Comnenus, when it was placed under the rule of the Isfindaburg princes of Kastamuni, and it passed under the sway of the Osmanlis in the time of Mohammed I.
We rode thirty miles the ensuing day (Thursday, May 11), up the same beautiful woodland vale, to the small town of Kut^'h- Kutch-Hissar, or ^ Sam's Castle,' but siurounded by populous ^^^^'
MB. AINSWORTH'S JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 539
Turcoman supremacy in these parts. We had to change APPX. horses here, which entailed a loss of two liours, and then ^ ^ - proceeded by Bayardir — now a mere village, but identified by Leake with the ancient Potamia — up another ascent, and Andont thence by a small lake, celebrated for its leeches, to the ^^'^°"*- town of Karadah, or Keredeh (ancient Carno). Karadah is a busy little town, with a fair bazaar, and is said to have a population of about 15,000 souls, of whom 3,000 are Chris- tians. Wishing to get on more expeditiously to Constanti- nople, Mr. Bassam left the more valuable and heavy portion of our luggage with a Christian merchant at this place, who faithfully promised to forward it after us; but he signally Losgof failed in his promise, and the luggage has never since been ^^^gK^*'- recovered.
Although detained next morning by heavy rain, we started at noon, and got over twelve post-hours to BolL The country was in part clad with wood, in part under cultivation, but there were several slight ascents and descents, and some small lakes. A guardhouse (which was also a coffee-house) by the wayside, was built in part of slabs of old marble, and there were other fragments of ruins lying about. Boli is a Town of goodly town, with a population of some 10,000 souls, of * whom some 3,000 are Greeks. It is the seat of a pacha, and the see of a Greek bishop ; and the ruins of two castles or mounds to the eastward, and numerous fragments of anti- quity, mark the site of Hadrianopolis of old.
We ascended (Tuesday, May 16) from the magnificent wooded plain of Boli, up forest-clad hills, by a road in part paved, and descended thence to a smaller plain with more greensward and many trees, at or about the centre of which was the village and posthouse of Tuz-cha. The plain, though Plain of not to be compared with that of Boli, was surrounded by ^'^^^^-cha. wooded hills, had its own little lake and rivulet, and pre- sented altogether a site of exceeding beauty. Numerous fragments of antiquity were scattered about, to mark the site of ancient Duseprum, twelve post-hours from Hadrianopolis. The capital of a column, lying near a well, was ornamented ivith doves encircled by wreaths.
It was seven post-hours from hence to Khandall, but twelve by order of the Padishah, as the Manzil Khan men had the
MB. AINSWOBTH'S JOUBNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. • 541
extend farther east I The introduction of railroads can alone APPX. effect this desirable change. In Europe railroads have been ^ ^^' .
the last result of civilisation, and iron roads have been intro- Beflections. duced across countries where a great population holds out promises of numerous travellers and of a considerable trans- port of merchandise. But India and the United States have set the example of a new order of ideas. In those countries the railway is made a means of communication between dis- tant cities and provinces, or to establish relationship between countries. It is made to precede civilisation, instead of fol- lowing it in the van, and experience has shown that settle- ment and cultivation, villages and towns, follow in its wake. This is the idea which remains to be applied alike to British North America and to the East. Bailways from Belgrade to Constantinople, and from Constantinople to Teheran and Bagdad, would revolutionise a considerable portion of West- ern Asia, and revive in those countries the civilisation of olden times.
It only remains to say that we rode from Sabanjah on Friday, May 19, to Nicomedia, and on Saturday, May 20, Conclusion. to Scutari — the scene, since that epoch, of many stirring events.
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OF OFFICERS. 543
tions in that service he was prompted to the brevet rank APPX. of lieutenant-colonel, in March 1839. He was placed on . ^•_- half-pay in 1843; and in the same year was appointed Commissioner, to mark the boundary between the United States and the British provinces in North America, a work which he completed in three years. Promoted to the rank of colonel in 1854,* he went out to the East in that year on the staff of Lord Raglan, and served as Adjutant-General from the first landing in the Crimea, sharing the glories and dangers of Alma, Balaklava, and Inkerman. He had enjoyed tolerably good health during the campaign, but died of cholera after a brief illness. The late Major-Greneral Est- court was named for K.C.B. in the * London Gazette ' of July 10, 1855, but his death had occurred before his nomination. He sat during the last Parliament for Devizes, having been elected for that borough in February 1848, but retired at the dissolution in 1852. He married, in 1837, Caroline, youngest daughter of the late Eight Hon. Reginald Pole Carew, of East Anthony, Cornwall, by his second wife, the Hon. Caroline Anne, daughter of the first Lord Lyttelton. His widow is now Lady Bucknall-Estcourb, of Eaton Place, London, she having been raised, in 1856, to the same rank as if her husband had survived to be created K.C.B., to which he was gazetted before his death was known in England.
THE LATE LIEUTENANT MURPHY, RE.
Lieutenant Hastings F. Murphy obtained his first com- mission in the Royal Engineers in 1816. He was employed at Dover and other stations till 1823, when he was selected by Colonel Colby for employment on the Ordnance Survey. His first duty was the reduction of the Observations of the Scotch Triangulation, in which he displayed considerable mathematical knowledge, as well as great assiduity. It may be worthy of notice, that in this he had for a time the assist-
* The other commissions of the late Major-General Estcourt are dated as follow :— Brigadior-Genoral, March 3, 185 i; Deputy AdjuUint-General, March 28, 18r>4 ; Adjutant-General to Forces in Turkey, August 11, 1854 ; and Major- Goner.d, Decombt-r 12, 1854.
THE REV. W. J. BUCKNALL-ESTCOUET.
The Rev. William John Bucknall-Estcourt, a brother of the late Major-General Est court, also accompanied the Expedition during its earlier stages. He was educated at Balliol College, Oxford, where he graduated B.A. in 1834, and M.A. in 1838 ; he was ordained deacon in 1839, and priest in 1841. In 1839, inanediately after his ordination, he was appointed Curate of Bishop's Cannings, Wilts, and was transferred to the curacy of Penselwood, Somerset, in 1836. He was Vicar of Sedgeford, Norfolk, from 1849 to 1856, when he was presented by his brother, the Eight Hon. T. B. Sotheron- Estcourt, to the Rectory of Long Newnton, Tetbury, Wilts, of which living (value 4001.) he is still in possession. For the above facts we are indebted to ' Crockford's Clerical Directory.'
THE LATE LIEUTENANT ROBERT COCKBURN, R.A.
This officer, who belonged to the Royal Artillery, was the son of the late Robert Cockburn, Esq., of Leith and Edin- burgh ; he sought, through the Duke of Wellington, and
N N
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OP OFFICERS. 545
WTiilst the Expedition was delayed at the mouth of the APPX. Orontes, Lieutenant Murphy, assisted by Mr. Fitzjames, ^ ^f^' . Lieutenant Cockburn, and Mr. Thomson, surveyed and mapped the coast from Lattakia to the extremity of the Bay of Scanderoou, in order to connect it with Admiral Beaufort's previous survey, &c.
He also, with the assistance of Messrs. Cockburn and Thomson, carried a line of levels from the Mediterranean Sea to the Upper Euphrates at Bir, a distance of rather more than 140 miles.
He likewise determined, astronomically, the principal points between the Mediterranean and Basrah, where, whilst com- pleting his arduous and important services, he fell a victim to fever ; and thus a most valuable and talented officer's ser- vices were lost to the country, to the deep regret of all who knew his worth.
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OP OFFICERS. 547
CAPTAIN HENRY BLOSSE LYNCH, C.B., KX.S. APPX.
xn.
The * Foreign OflBce List ' gives the following summary of the services of Captain Lynch, C.B., who served in an im- portant capacity in the Euphrates Expedition : — He entered the Indian Navy in 1823. Was employed in the survey of the Arabian shores of the Persian Gulf, and was Arabic, Persian, and Hindostanee interpreter to the Commodore commanding in the Persian Gulf; was employed in conduct- ing communications with the Arab tribes, and travelling in Arabia. In 1830, was in command of the ' Enterprise ' steam- vessel, in India. In 1832, examined the southern provinces of Persia, and the communications from the Gulf into Southern Persia, under instructions received through Sir John McDonald, late Envoy Extraordinary in Persia, from the Supreme Government of India. In 1834, was second in command under Colonel (now General) Che«ney in the Euphrates Expedition. From 1837 to 1842, was in command of the * Euphrates' and * Tigris,' and in charge of the postal service across Syria, from Bagdad to Damascus. In 1842, was in command of the Indian naval squadron off the coast of Scinde, in communication with the late General Sir CLarles Napier, during the war. From 1844 to 1851, was employed in civil duties at Bombay, as Assistant Superin- tendent of the Indian Navy, captain of the * Hastings' flag- ship, oflBciating Superintendent of the Indian Navy, and member of the Oriental Examination Committee. Jn 1851, was in command of the squadron of steam-frigates in the River Irrawaddy, and took part in the capture of Rangoon, the relief of Martaban, and the whole of the operations of the war. Was created a C.B. December 3, 1853, for services in Burmah. In 1857, was employed at Paris, in conducting negotiations with the Persian Ambassador, which resulted in the Treaty of Paris, March 4, 1857, and accompanied the Persian Ambassador to England in 1857-58.
From Walford's * County Families ' we learn that Captain Lynch is the eldest surviving son of the late H. B. Lynch, Esq., of Partry House, co. Mayo (a major in the army), by Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Finnis, Esq., of Hythe,
N N 2
i
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OP OFFICERS. 549
in February 1834, as mate, to the * Salamander ' steam- APPX vessel, employed on Channel service; and in October 1834 '_.
joined the Expedition under Colonel Chesney, then preparing for its explorative mission to the celebrated River Euphrates. Throughout the various details of that arduous undertaking, which was only brought to an issue in the spring of 1837, Mr. Charlewood repeatedly acquired official praise, but more especially for his active co-operation in the laborious task of originally transporting the steamers 'Euphrates' and * Tigris' (to the former of which he was attached with the rank of acting lieutenant) from the vicinity of Antioch overland to the town of BIr, a tract of about 140 miles, almost impas- sable for the want of roads — as well as for his subsequent exertions in saving the * Euphrates ' when her consort the ' Ti-^ris ' foundered in a typhoon. On his return to England, he joined, in July 1837, the * Excellent' (gunnery ship) at Portsmouth, of which he was appointed lieutenant on January 26, 1838. Eemoving, on April 25, 1839, to the 'Benbow' (72 gims). Captain Houston Stewart, Lieutenant Charlewood sailed for the Mediterranean ; and while on that station took part in the various operations of the Syrian campaign under the late Admiral Sir Charles Napier, including the attack on Tortosa and bombardment of St. Jean d'Acre. On the former occasion (September 25, 1840), he landed at the head of a pioneer party, entered a breach in the wall of the castle, and brought off several stores of corn and rice. For his very gallant conduct in this affiiir he obtained a commander's commission, dated November 5, 1840, but since that time has been on half-pay. He was promoted to captain on the Retired List of the Navy on January 1, 1855. Captain Charlewood married, on March 18, 1841, Sarah Carlton, second daughter of the late William Wyllie, Esq., of Kingston, Hants.
THE LATE CVPTAIN JAMES IJITZJAMES, R.N.
He entered the navy on August 25, 1825, as first-class volunteer on board the ' Pyramus ' (42 guns), in which ship, after accompanying Mr. Morier, the British Commissioner, to Mexico, and serving for some time on the Home station.
t
I
j
\
0 0
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BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OF OFFICERS. 551
On May 27, 1844, he joined the ' Cornwallis,' the flagship of APPX. Sir William Parker in China, whose official praise, as well as ^- — r-^ that of Sir Hugh (now Lord ) Goiigh, he repeatedly acquired for his meritorious conduct diu-ing the hostilities of 1842, his name occurring in not less than five gazettes. In the course of that year he directed, with excellent precision, the fire of the rocket^ brigade in the attack on the heights of Segoun and Tzekee, March 15 and 16 ; and had also charge of the rocket-party at the taking of Chapoo, May 18. He served on shore at the battle of Woosung, June 16 ; again commanded the rocket- brigade at the storm and capture of Chinkiang-Foo, July 21, when he was severely wounded ; was present at the signing of the Treaty of Nankin, and participated in all the opera- ticms on the Yang-tse-Kiang. On December 23, 1842, he was rewarded by promotion to the rank of commander, and on the 30th of the same month was appointed to the * Clio,' a sloop of 16 guns. After visiting Basrah and Kurnah, at the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, he was sent to quell disturbances among the crews of merchantmen loading guano at Ichaboe, on the coast of Africa, and was paid oflF on his arrival in England in October 1844. Since March 4, 1845, Fitzjames (whose commission as captain bears date December 31 of that year) has been in command of the 'Erebus' discovery ship, Captain Sir John Franklin, which was employed in the attempt to explore the North- West passage through Lancaster Sound and Behring's Straits, and had the conduct of the magnetic operations connected with that unfortunate expedition. — From 0' Byrne' a Naval Bio- graphy.
C APTAIN HENRY EDEN, R.N.
Captain Henry Eden, R.N., entered the navy, as a first-claps volunteer on board the ' Hyperion' (42 guns), January f>, 1825. He subsequently served on bo ard the ' Menai,' the ' Met'Senger steamer, and ' Prince Kegent,' in the Mediterranean ; then as mate on board the ' Hermes ' and * Flamer' steamers. In Janu- ary 1834, he joined the gunnery-ship ' Excellent,' and in December of the same year he was appointed to serve on the Expedition going to the Kiver Euphrates ; and, after af-sisting in the transport and floating of the two steamers prepared for
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OP OFFICERS. 553
APPX. Mb. a. a. STAUNTON. XII.
Mr. Andrew Atlmer Staunton joined the Expedition with firet-rate qualifications as a draftsman, and as possessing much experience in Natural History, especially in the preparation of specimens, in which he was indefatigable and most successful. Many of his numerous and valuable drawings went down in the * Tigris,' from which vessel he and his brother most happily escaped. He had volunteered his services, and at the close of the Expedition he was appointed assistant-surgeon in the Ordnance Medical Department, his commission bearing date September 20, 1836. He died in Canada a few years ago.
Mb. l^aLLIAM AINSWORTH, SURGEON AND GEOLOGIST OF THE
EUPHRATES EXPEDITION.
In order to lessen the number of officers attached to the Euphrates Expedition, and diminish the expenditure, such me- dical officers were sought for as would be qualified to take one of the scientific branches, in addition to the ordinary medical duties. Accordingly, Mr. William Ainsworth — son of Captain John Ainsworth, of the 15th Foot, the descendant of an old family — was to undertake the geological department, for which his antecedents had fully prepared him ; for on passing his examination as a licentiate of the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh, in 1827, he received instruction of a more general and practical description in Paris, where he became an interne of the School of Mines. He subsequently had practical experience in geology in the Auvergne and Pyrenees, &c. On returning to Scotland, in 1829, he edited for two years the ' Edinburgh Journal of Natural and Geograpliical Science,' and gave lectures on geology. When the cholera made its appearance at Sunderland in 1832, he was one of the first to grapple with and study this new epidemic, and the result of his observations was given to the world in a work on Cholera,* in consequence of which he was appointed surgeon to, and visited successively, the hospitals at St. George's, Hanover Square (London), and Westport, Ballin-
* 'ObsenratioDB on the Cholera in Sunderland in 1832/
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OP OFFICERS. 555
APPX. Mb. C. a. RASSAM. . ^^^ ^
Mr. Christian Anthony Rassam is a native of Mosul, to which city his great-grandfather had migrated from the coast of Malabar. His father was a Chaldean priest, or clergyman of the Nestorian Church. Mr. C. A. Rassam was his eldest son. When quite a lad he accompanied a caravan going from Mosul to trade in the heart of Arabia, and at a later period was employed in translating Arabic MSS. at the college at Malta. After several years spent in this literary occupa- tion, he joined the Euphrates Expedition as Arabic inter- preter, and subsequently undertook a journey into Kurdistan on behalf of the Royal Geographical Society and of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, in company with Mr. Ainsworth. His zeal, superior intelligence, and usefulness during both these expeditions procured for him the appointment of British Vice-Consul at Mosiil, which he has held since 1837.
Mb, WILLIAM QUIN.
Mr. Quin was formerly a sergeant in the Royal Artillery, and accompanied Colonel Chesney, R.A., in the Euphrates Expedition, after which he received an appointment in the imperial customs in the West Indies in 1840; appointed .sub-treasurer, colonial customs, St. Kitts, August 1850; captain. Fort Thomas, December 1850; emigration officer, November 1851 ; granted by unanimous resolution of both Houses of Legislature, in consideration of onerous duties as sub-treasurer and quarantine officer — 100/., March 1854; removed to Antigua, as treasury accountant (salary 300/.), August 1857 ; commissioned as Major commanding Artillery and Infantry, and Brigade-Major of Her Majesty's Volunteer Militia Forces in Antigua, May 1858 ; by the imanimous resolution of both Houses of Legislature, presented the sum of lOOZ., in acknowledgment of services rendered the Colony in the organization of the Militia Volunteer Forces, August 1859; appointed Captain-Superintendent of Police in Hong- kong (salary 800^), January 1862, and retired on a pension in 1868. — Colonial Office List.
BIOGRAPHICAL RECORDS OF OFFICERS. 557
his savasre rancour agfainst the Engflish captives, and have APPX.
or' YTT
prevented him, in the supreme moment of his destiny, from imbruing his hands in English blood. Perhaps the English nation owes it to Bell that the heights of Magdala, now sur- rounded with the halo of a successful military exploit, are not associated with the gory memories of the hideous Well of Cawnpore !
The Times of September 8, 1868, in a review of Dr. Blanc's * Narrative of Captivity in Abyssinia,' makes the following remarks on the strange relationship between Bell and Theodore: —
* After reading this description (of Theodore), one under- stands how, in better days, he made such an impression upon a politician of Plowden's penetration, or the marvellous per- sonal ascendancy which he acquired over the man known as " Theodore's Englishman " — Bell. There are in all history few instances of a devotion so loyal, so touching in its sim- plicity and honest bravery, as that with which this single- hearted, outspoken Englishman worshipped Theodore. He was scarcely ever absent from his side, even at night lying down like a watchdog to protect his beloved master from harm, and at last sacrificing life itself to save him. Yet, in this more than servile devotion there was no real servilitv. Strange to say, Bell, Englishman-like, dared — what so few favourites whose very existence depended on a master's breath have ever dared to do — frankly to tell Theodore his faults, and, stranger still, Theodore listened and as frankly con- fessed them. When we reflect that this was the man whom it was afterwards as unsafe even to approach as to come near a wounded tiger, we cannot help thinking that his character presents about as curious and interesting a psychological study as it would be easy in all history to find. Plowden, again — a man of a widely different nature from Bell's, and singularly able — was in his own way scarcely less impressed, although he failed to make a corresponding impression on Theodore. He attributes to the half-clad, half-civilized African views on question? of imperial policy farsighted and profound enough to have been worthy any European states- man; and fairly to appreciate Theodore's ascendancy over these two men, our readers must bear in mind that he had,
INDEX.
AAT
AATYL, ruins of, 26 Abbas Mirza, camp of, 111 — liarem of, 344 Abdullah, Arab guide, 61 Ab-i-Diz river, 323 Ab-i-Zal, 99
Abu Serai, once Kerkisivah, 260 Accounts of the Expedition, 348, 374 Ach-chi river, 117 Achmadea camp, 113 Adanah, 212
Agha Denghis, or White Lake, 193 Agrish Tagh, 132 Ahwaz, town and bund of, 96, 323 Ainsworth, Mr., 212
— left behind, 277
— aflRiir with the Arabs, 219
— Appendix XI., 492
— biographical notice of, 663 Aintab, 212
Akar Kuf, 86
Akar Nimriid, 83
Akfou tents, 33
Akoura village, 19
Akm Jebel, or Mount Cassius, 168
Albert Nyanza, 7
Aleppo, 411
Alexander the Great's marches, 302,
600-7 Alexandria, 346 Ali-Shehr village, 136 Aniasiyah, 636 Amenabacl, 112 Amman, ruinu of, 31 Amra, Kut-el, 307, 311 Amram forest, 246
— a quarter of Babylon, 88 Aniza /Vrabs, 75, 436
— at Boles, 237
— treaty with the, 240 Anna, description of, 63-8
— the steamers at, 261-70 Anthemusia, site of, 138 Antioch, 189, 386-9
BAS
Antioch, bay of, 140, 168
— lake of, 196 Appendix I. Chesney, 364
— II. Expedition accounts, 374
— III. Estcourt, 881
— IV. „ 407
— V. Lynch, 432
— VI. Heifer, 439
— Vn. Estcourt, 446
— Vin. Cleaveland, 462
— IX. Charlewood, 466
— X. Fitgames, 481
— XI. Ainsworth, 492
XII. Biographical notices of officers. 642 Aqueducts and waterwheels, 61, 76, 76 Arabian and Egyptian overland routes,
143, 364 Arabian line of MarouisWellesley, 329 Ararat, Great and Little, 117 Aras river, 119
Aiaxes of Xenophon, the Ehabur, 262 Arbil, mound o( 606 Arch at Babylon, 89 Ascent of the steamer to Bir, 222
— of the River Euphrates, 314-20 Karun, 292
Tigris, 306
Auckland, Lord,Q^vemor-General,331
BA'ALBEC, 20. 399 Babylon, 88, 203, 282 Bagdad, arrival at, 83
— departure from, 86
— steamer arrives at, 309, 324 Bah-a-Mishr, 32, 102, 302 Baigrie, Dr., opinion of plague, 101 Band-i-Kir, 91, 98
Barker, Consul-General, 4
— Mr. E. B. B. 364, 668 Basaltic mountains, chain of, 440 Basrah, 94, 293, 321
— memorial of loss of * Tigris * at, 276 Bastinado, 414
INDEX.
561
ECP
Euphrates question examined by the King, 164
— Expedition, 20,000/. votod, 149
armament, &c., 161-164
supported by the Duke of Wel- lington, 166
intended route of, 167
its objects, 4, 161
lands at the Orontes, 170
transport and floating, 177-220
officers and men, 220-222
— journey to, from Damascus, 60-64
— descent of, 66-94
— state of commerce on, 366
— Lower, ascent and descent of, 314^ 321
Expedition, summary of, 362
FAHAL Arabs, and blood-feud, 232 Fakkra pyramids, 14 Farren, Mr., 345 Ears, 106 Felujah, arrival at, 81, 281
— descent of Euphrates ftom, 282 Ferhand, village, 424
Fires, natural, near Kirkiik, 497 Fitzjames's gidlantiy, 164
— our admiral, 193
— broken leg, 238
— carries home despatches, 820
— illness and recovery, 479
— Appendix X., 481
— biographical notice of, 649 Fokkera or Forra, ruins of, 46 Fontanier, M., French Consul at
Basrah, 293, 306 Fountain of Zoila, 191
GAIOURTAGH, 128 Gardens, hanging, of Babylon, 88,
283 Gashir Elian, 498 Gate of St. Paul, Antioch, 189 Geddes, Corporal, death of, 200 Gemileh-Stomo, 370 Germain, Mr. Vincent, 292 Getgood, the Arab pilot, 69, 86 Ghnmesh Elhanoh, town of, 123 Gilet, M., Consul at Tarsus, 212 Gledstanes, Hampden, Esq., 200 Ck>bain island, 71 Godal castle, 127 Gordon, Sir Robert, 384 Oourlou, whirlpool of, 227 Grane, route by, 299 Grant, Sir Robert, and Lady, 327 Greek inscription at Belet-Chan- Asra,
443
IK(}
Gh^enhill, Corporal, 237
Guebro temple, 112
Giimbat and Gazellan, villages of, 129
Gurun, town of, 133
Guydoo, village of, 130
Guzelburj, station at, 181, 189, 193
— village of, 478, 484
HAAGE, Mr., 489 . Hadisa, town of, 72, 278 Hafar canal, 109 Hafiz, tomb of, 106 Hafiz Pacha, 621 Harji Ismael Agha, 135 H^i the Pole, 177 Hakem, Beni, 289 Halebi and Zelebi, 247 Halil, dragoman, 50 Halys, the, 640 Hammam Wadi, 34
— Milk, hills of, 606 Hammamli river, 638 Haran, 433
Haroun-el-Raschid's palace, 243 Hasan EaVah, 119
Hassan Agha, 231 Hattib, the Arab chief, 26
— treachery of, 35 Havilah of the Jews, 49 Hawiyji-el-Khawaslik, 71 Hector Mr., 208. 229, 267, 652 Heifer, Dr. and Mrs., join the Expedi-*
tion, 205
— Appendix VI., 439 Hesban, 39
Heusn Ni6ha, ruins of, 14 Hierapolis, 442
Hill of Difficulty, 194, 472-474, 483 Hillah, approach to, 87
— departure from, 90
— hostility of the Arabs at, 284 Hit, arrival at, 76, 280
— boatbuilding at, 77
^ bitumen springs and productions
of, 280 Henderson,Captain, of the 'Columbine,'
166, 171 Hennell, Captain, 96, 102, 296, 297 Hobhouse, Sir John, letters from,
271, 272 Hollow way, or tunnel, of Seleucia,
171, 383
PRAHIM PACHA, interview with, 179, 404
— his reception at Suedia, 184
— hostile step taken by, 468 Inglis, Sir Robert H., 143
O 0
INDEX.
563
MUR
Mnrphy, Lientenanti R. £., joins the Expedition, 152
— survey by, 182, 192
— illness and death, 301
— biographical notice of, 643 Murud Pacha, landing-place at, 181 Mutsellim of Antioch, 176
— of Bir, 209
NAHR-EL-KASAB, 30 Namik Pacha, 158 Nile, ascent to Cairo of^ 5
— boats, 8
— rise and fall of, 6 Nisibin, 514 Nyanza, Albert, 7
— Victoria, 7
OFFICERS appointed to the Expe- dition, 151, 152 Omkes, remains at, 47 Orfah, once Emessa, 186, 419 Ormsby, Lieutenant, R.N., 84 Orontes, the estuary of, 169
— course of, 172
Overland route through Arabia, 330
PACKOLET river. South Carolina, 155 Pallacopas Canal, 335 Palmyra, 50, 58 Palmyra, and plain of, 341 Paul's Gate at Antioch, 191 Peacock, Mr., 4, 143 Pereepolis, 106 Plague, 84, 95
— treatment of, 101
Port WilHam, 198, 219, 447
— heaviest boiler arrives at, 209
Q
UIN, Sergeant-Major, 347 — biographical notice of, 555
RACCA, 434 Raft, construction of, 67 Rassam Mr. C. A., joins the Expedi- tion, 164 — biographical notice of, 666 Red Sea, navigation of, 365 Reschid Pacha, career of, 422 Rich's discoveries at Eski-Kifri, 494 Robinson, Dr. Romney, 153 Ross, Dr., 309 Routes through Egjrpt, 366 Rum Kaleh, 137
Russian advances towards India, 354 Russian fleet at Constantinople, 145
s
AAN, route of, 369 Sabine, General, 133
TAU
Sadi, tomb of, 105
Said Omar, hermitage of, 602
Sailing of the Expe£ton, 165
Saklawiyah canal, 82
Salt lake, 316, 345
Samsat, remains at, 1 39
Samson, Mr., 49
Sandeman, George Glas, Esq., 200
Scanderoon, line of canals from, 146
Seil-Jerash river, 46
Seleucia, and hollow way at, 169, 171
Severek, 422
Seyd Ali, 204, 219, 316, 846
Shaara, 23
ShahofP^ia, 111
Shakka, ruins of, 26
Shapur Shah, 98
— valley of, 103
Shatt-el-Arab river, 93, 94, 292, 294 Sheepshanks, Rev, R., 162, 153 Sheikh-el-Shuyukh, town of, 93, 321 Sheikh Soliman, 436
— Woofa, 22,26 Shiahs, the, 91 Shiraz, 104
Shushan, remains of, 99 Shuster, city of, 97 Sidra Shatt canal, 90
Sifara, antediluvian Sippara, 82 Sis, town of, 216
Sivas, ancient Sebasteia, 130, 184, 529 State of commerce on the Eaphrates
and Tigris, 356 Staunton, Dr. C. F., biographical notice
of, 552
— Mr. A. A., biographical notice of, 553
Steam Committee, 142, 143 Stocqueler, Mr. (now J. H. Siddons), 93 Stomo-Gemileh, 370 Stone, Migor, 112 Stores landed, 174 Suedia, railway from, 3
— landing near, 170, 171 Suez ship-canal, 2 Sullivan, Mr. John, 144 Sulphur at Hit, 78 Summary of the Expedition, 352 Supreme Gt)vemment of India, 322
— instructions by, 328 Survey of coast of Syria, 192
— of Orontes 452 Sus, 99
Szalt, town of, 43
TADMOR, wounded Franks at, 60, 342 Tamerlane, mopumcnt of, 104 Tarsus, 212 Tauk-Kezra, remains at, 309
I
39 Patbbsostba Bow, E.G. London: January 1868.
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22
NEW WORKS PTBLiiHSD ET LONGMANS Aan> CXX
EixiroTT'B CommcnlwT on Epbeuans
DMtMiToflheCremlur*
. I/vi i:rtrt • n Life of Chrbt
O xnu.'-'i.tarj- ». n ftalalutiis
I*asftorml EpUt.
I'i i!ipp'.ai3^.±'\
Th'ii5al'jiinmi
Kxiii.L'B lutrmluction to Natioual Miutic ..
Btaajd antl B^'vi- w*
on R'rlirion an<l Lil«Taturr,odit«J bj
EwALli's llUtorj" • f Un**\
.4 .4 4 4 4 I .4 1
Wrought Iron to BuiWinr 13
^^-— Iiifurj.aiiuu fvr Eiifnu^^n ....
. Trrmtiw on M \\[% and M Ul work 18
Fajbbaicx on Iron Shipbuilding IS
Yarbab's Chai f-r^ on Lviruaic*? 5
TXLSIB on Hosi^-ry k Iac^ Mannfarturea. . IS
FFOi'LKm'B Chriktoudnm's Divinona 15
TLiBDinEB** irwtor) Ufb 4
Feascib'8 Fi-Jhinc Book 19
n <8ir P.) M<omalr and Journal .... S
PtorPB** HiJitory of Bngland I
^— — Short 8tndi«w C
OA?fOT*s Elomentary Pliyaira 8
G II JiBBT and Cn u Kcn I i.L*8 Dolomite Moun-
talnR IS
Oii.L*BrBpall>rama 2
(iii.L\''B8hl!Jwncksof theNavy 17
OoonsTB*! B!enirnt« of MechaniKni IS
Goblets Quest iniiri on Brow5S*8 Exposition
oftbeS9AriicU4 14
Ob Airr*« Bthirs of Ari»iotle 4
GraTor Th jnphts of a Counlr^* Pinon 6
Oray'a Anaiomy 11
Grbritk's Corals and ScA Jollies * 9
SponcrfA and Animalcidae 9
OBom on Oorrelntion of niysictil Forces . . 8
Gwi lt'b EncyclopsKlia of Architecture .... 12
ifandlK>«>k of Angltnc. iiy ErnxiiXBA 19
Haro on Election of ReitrcBentatiTes 5
fjABUCTand KBOWX'aUifltolocical DeiBon-
ttratioiifl • 11
H ABTWio'tf Ilormoniea of Nature 9
Polar World 9
HeaanditsLivinirWonden.... 9
Tropic«I World 9
IIauoutox'b Manual of Geology 8
Hawkbb's Instnxctions to Young Sport*-
nicn 19
Hbabb'b llntology 2
on English Gorcmment I
Hblp8*8 Rpaniflh Conquest in AmcrirB .... t
Hex dbbson'b Folk-Loro 6
Hkrbchzl's EnsayB fh>m Reriews 10
Outlines of Astronomy 7
^lYi'liminaiy Piflcourse on the
Study of Natural Philowophy 8 ,
llKWiTT on the Dis' iu>es of Women 19
Hoimnojf'H Timr and Space 7 >
iIor.MK8*8Hy«tcin of Surgery 19 ,
Hook KB Biid Walbee-Arkott's British
Mora 0 i
liorjciNs's Hanaii g
HOK.VK 8 Introduction to tha Scriptuns .. 14 <
Compendium of the 6cr^t«i«8 .. 14 !
HoBftx.KT's Mat-usI of Foiaoos -I
HC'SK^nrs'sCtcvaa^vjA: Esaa;^ 1
U -w ve Spc::s tbe Suauner «>
H-^TTABTj Gy— EMtiv- BxtTciiea n
UuHTXT'a AufCralcaa I>iseo(rery V
Riral LiTo :rE;icla=d t
Vi»:t« t-> R^Tsvkable PtoMi .... t
llcTkfri'X's Executor's Ga>le '
Hughes's Gariea ATv-VJtcrture B
nv.^ MaomloTGeoRBphy »
llrLL-iH's H^i.-ry of Modem Maac ^
Transitive Vu^km! Lectozw .... B
S^-T^Xusic U
HrMPiiRETS's S*ul;m«:t» of Shakspenv •• B
HrrroB's Stadtea in PBrliBSBaat *
flymv.% fporr: Ljrra Orrmamica **
l5«iBi»w*8 Poeoia â–
Story or DooB •
Icelandic Lefmids. Svomrp SsKiSi ......•• 0
Jame«ox's Legeadfl of tbe Sainta uailbf-
tyrs U
Lecivds of the Madonna M
liccends of theMonAstkOrdos U
Jameson aiwl BAm.AJCB*iB HiatotytfOv
Lord «
Jexiteb's Holy Child ^
JonxBTOxV GaBett<«r. or Qeoenl Oss* rrapliical J>ictionarj '
KAT.iM'H'sOommentaiT'on tbeBihIe ^
Heltrew O msBmar '
Keith on Destiny of the TTorld ^
FulAlment of ProiAecT **
Kbllkr'8 Lake Dwelluics of Switaertettd .* ^
Kb6TBTB5> Domestic Medicive ^
KiBBT and Spbxcb's EDtomoiogy J
K5IGHT*8 Arch of Titus "
Lad3''8 Ti>ar round Monte Sosa ^
Lakdo.n'0 (L.E. L.) Poetical Woriis ^^
Latham's English Dictionaiy ^
RiTcr Plate '
Lawbenceou Rocks '
Lecky'b Histoiy of Rationalism ^
Leisure Hours in Town • *
Lessons of Middle Age ^
Letters of Distinguished Muaieians *
LEWEd'8 Biographical IlistoiyofPhilosaplV ^ LiDDBLLandSooTT'sGreek-EnfriishltfOOOB •
Abridged ditto •
LifeofManfiymlK^ised IS
LiNPLEY and Moork*s Treaaur>' of Bolaqy * Lotto vaic'b Ijeetnrea on History of Bngland 2 LouDOH's Encydopsedia of Agricniture . . . • ^
Gardening M
Planto »
Treesaad Shrohs •
Cottage, Farm, and VniaArchitectm« IS
Lowndes's Engineer's Handbook IS
Lorra Domostica IS
Bucharistica 19
Gerroanica 1X19
Msssianica 1«
MyaUok W
Sacra 1«
Macaux«at*s (Lord) SsBSdrs '
INDEX
AcTo'd Mo<3ern Cookory 20
A i.cock's Residoiico in Japan 16
A LLiKs on Formation of Christianity 15
Alpine Guiilo (The) 16
Ai.vLxsLEBEN's Maximilian in Moxico .... 4
Arjoii!f 'd Manual of the Metalloids 9
Arnold's 3fanua] of Knglish Literature . . 6
Akvotx's Elements of Physics 8
Arundines Cami 18
Autumn Holidays of a Country Parson .... 6
A yre's Treasury of Bible Knowledge 14
Dacox's Essays by Whately 5
Life and Letters, by Sfeddiko .. 3
Works 4
1>A IX on the Emotions and Will 7
on the Senses and Intellect 7
oil the Study of Character 7
Ball's Guide to the Central Alps 10
Guide to the. Western Alps IG
Guide to the Eastern Alps 16
B V BXAED's Drawing from Nature 12
Ba YLDOs's lUnits and Tilla^ces 13
Beaten Tracks 16
liECKEn'a OtatHcles and Cfallvs 17
Beetuo>'En's Letters 4
Bkxfey's Sanskrit-English Dictionary .... 6
JJkury's Journals 3
Black's Treatise on Brewing 20
Blacklby' and Fiiiedlandeb*8 German
and English Dictionary G
Blaixe's Rural Sports 19
Veterinary Art 19
Blight's Week at the Land's End 17
Booth's Epigrams 6
Bo r RVB on Screw Propeller 13
'8 Catechism of the Steam Engine . . 13
Handbook of Steam Engine .... 13
Treatise on the Steam Engine.... 13
Bo wdler's Family Sha kspeare 18
Bii AM let-Moore's Six Sisters of theValleys 17 Bkaxdr's Dictionary of Science, Literature,
and Art 10
Brat's (C.) Education of the Peelings .... 7
Philos' 'phy of Necessity 7
On Force 7
Brixtox on Food and Digestion 20
BRisTOw'sGlossary of Mineralogy 8
Brodie's Constitutional History 1
(SirC. B.) Works 11
Browne's Exposition 39 Articles 14
Buckle's History of Civilisation 2
JUll*s Hints to Mothers 20
Maternal Management of Children . . 20
BuxSKX's Ancient Egypt 8
GodinHistory 3
Memoirs 3
BuxsEN (E. De) on Apocrypha 15
'8 K^ys of St. Peter 15
Burke's Vicissitudes of Families 4
BuRTOX's Christian Church 3
Cabinet Lawyer 20
Calvert's Wife's Manual 15
Catss's Biographical Dictionary 3
Cats and Farlie's Moral Emblems 12
Chorale Book for England 11
Christian Schools and Scholars 6
Clougii's Lives from Plutarch 2
CoLEXSO (Bishop) on Pentateuch and Book
of Joshua 15
CoLLiX'8'8 Horse Train'-r's Guide 19
Commonplace Philosopher in Town and
Country c
CoxixaT05 's Chemical Analysis 10
Translation of Virgil's JiSneid 13
Co^TAXsEAv's Two Frcnch and English
Dictionaries 6
CoxTBEABE and Howsox'sLife and Epistles
ofSt.Paul 14
Cook's Acts of the Apostles 14
Coplaxd'8 Dictionary of Practical Medicine 11
CouLTU ART'S Decimal Interest Tables .... 20
Cox's Manual of Mythology 17
Tales of the Great Persian War 2
Tales flrom Greek Mythology 17
Tales of the Gods and Heroes 17
Tales of Thebes and Ai^pos 17
Crawlet's Billiard Book 20
Crest's Encyclopicdia of Civil Engineering 13
Critical Essays of a Country Parson 6
Crowe's History of Prance 8
Crump on Banking, &c 19
Cu86AX8'8 Grammar of Heraldry 12
Dart's Iliad of Homer 18
D'AuBioxs's History of the Reformation in
the time of Calvix 2
Davidson's Inti*oductiou to New Testament 14
Datm Ax'8 Dante's Divina Commedia 18
De:id Shot (Tlic), by Marksmax 19
De Bu Ron's Maritime International Law. . 20
De la Hive's Treatise on Electricity 8
De Moroax on Matter and Spirit 7
De Tocqubvi llb's Democrat^ in America . 2
Disraeli's Speeches on Reform 5
DoBSOX on the Ox 19
DovK on Storms 8
Dyers City of Rome 2
E astlake's Hints on Household Taste .... 12
Edwards's Shipmaster's Guide 20
Elements of Botany 6
'/? -> Oi^
\
iV-*!