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Harper's Stereotype Edition.
Z NARRATIVE
or
DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE
IN
AFRICA,
FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME:
WITIL ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE
GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, AND ZOOLOGY.
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6
BY PROFESSOR JAMESON, JAM SQ., F.R.S.Es,
AND HUGH MURRA ss
4a ee
WITH A MAP; PLANS OF THE Robtes OF PARK, AND OF DENHAM AND
CLAPPERTON } AND SEVERAL ENGRAVINGS.
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PREFACE.
Tux object of this volume is to exhibit, within a
moderate compass, whatever is most interesting in
the adventures and observations of those travellers
who, from the earliest ages, and in various direc.
tions, have sought to explore Africa; and also tu
give a general view of the physical and social condi-
tion of that extensive continent at the present day.
This quarter of the globe has afforded more ample
scope than any other to the exertions of that class of
men whose enterprising spirit impels them, regard-
less of toil and peril, to penetrate into unknown coun-
tries. Down to a comparatively recent period, the
greater part of its immense surface was the subject
only of vague report and conjecture. The progress
of those discoverers, by whom a very large extent of
its interior regions has at length been disclosed,
having been accompanied with arduous labours, and
achieved in the face of the most formidable obstacles,
presents a continued succession of striking incidents,
as well as of new and remarkable objects: and our
interest cannot fail to be heightened by the considera-
tion, that Britain, by the intrepid spirit of her travel-
lers, her associations of distinguished individuals,
and her national patronage, has secured almost the
exclusive glory of the many important discoveries
which have been made within the last forty years.
The work now submitted to the public, and the
recent one on the Polar Regions, embrace two of
the most interesting fields of modern discovery. The
adventurers who traversed these opposite parts of
the world frequently found their efforts checked, and
their career arrested, by the operation of causes which,
although equally powerful, were yet extremely dif-
vi PREFACE.
ferent in their nature. In the Northern Seas, they
suffered from that dreadful extremity of cold to which
high latitudes are exposed; in Africa, from the scorch-
ing heat and pestilential vapours peculiar to a tropical -
climate: there, they encountered the fury of oceans
and tempests ; here, the privations and fatigues which
oppress the traveller in parched and boundless de-
serts. In the former they had less to endure from
that almost total absence of human life which ren-
ders the Arctic zone so dreary, than they had to ex-
perience in the latter from the fierce, contemptuous,
and persecuting character of the people who occupy
the interior parts of the Libyan continent. In a
word, while exploring these remote regions, they
braved almost every species of danger, and passed
through every variety of suffering, by which the
strength and fortitude of man can be tried.
The Narrative of these successive Travels and
Expeditions has been contributed by Mr. Hugh Mur-
ray. The Geological Illustrations have been fur-
nished by the justly celebrated Professor Jameson ;
and for the interesting and very ample account of its
Natural History the reader is indebted to Mr. James
Wilson, author of “Illustrations of Zoology,” and
the principal contributor in that branch of science to
the new edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica.
The present volume, having for its main object the
History of Discovery and Adventure, does not in-
clude the countries on the Mediterranean coast, which |
from the earliest ages have, been well known to the
nations of Europe.—Egypt, again, from its high an-
tiquity, its stupendous monuments, and the memora-
ble revolutions through which it has passed, pre-
sented matter at once too interesting and ample to
-be comprehended within such narrow limits. The
history of that kingdom, therefore, has been reserveG
for a separate volume, which will contain also an
account of Nubia and Abyssinia. ‘
EpiInBuRGH, 20th November, 1830.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE NATURAL FEATURES OF AFRICA
{ntroductory Observations—Its Situation on the Globe—Extensive De
serts—Mountains and Rivers—Vegetable Life—-Animal Life—Social
Aspect—Striking Contrasts which it presents ...... She Page 13
CHAPTER II.
KNOWLEDGE OF AFRICA AMONG THE ANCIENTS.
Northern Africa well known—Obstacles opposed by the Desert—De-
scription given by Herodotus—by Diodorus—by Strabo—Ancient Ac-
counts of the Nile—of Ethiopia—of Abyssinia—Expedition seut by
Necho—Journey of the Nasamones—Voyage of Sataspes—of Hanno—
Voyages of Hudoxus—Periplus of the Erythrean Sea ..........0.
CHAPTER III.
SETTLEMENTS OF THE ARABS,
* Their Influence on this Continent—Migration into Central Africa~
Ghana—Tocrur—Kuku— Wangara—Ulil—Eastern Africa—Travels of
Ibn Batuta—Description by Leo Africanus ...........005 cceaces
CHAPTER IV.
PORTUGUESE DISCOVERIES.
Rise of the Spirit of Discovery—Voyages along the Western Coast—The
Senegal—Prince Bemoy—Discovery of the Congo—Numerous Mis-
sionaries sent out—Superstitions of the Natives...
oe ere ere: ¥ 6
CHAPTER V.
EARLY ENGLISH DISCOVERIES.
Decline of Portuguese maritime Power—Company formed in England to
explore the Gambia—Richard Thompson—His Death—Jobson’s. Voy-
age up the Gambia—Manners
Stibbs .
of the Native Africans—Vermuyden—
eee eee eeene es eens
CHAPTER VI.
FRENCH DISCOVERIES.
French Settlement on the Senegal—Jannequin’s Voyage—Voyages of
Brue up the Senegal—Bambouk; Gold Mines—Saugnier—Gum-
trade..... ee ee ee ”
Vill CONTENTS. |
CHAPTER VIL.
EARLY PROCEEDINGS OF THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATON,
ae eee re respecting the Interior Sane
Death. . Tre oo Pe ey eo
CHAPTER VIII.
PARK’S FIRST JOURNEY.
Park undertakes to explore Afriea—Departure—Ill Treatment at Bon-
dou and Joag—Kooniakary—Captivity among the Moors—Escape
—The Niger—Sego—Sansanding—Silla—Obliged to return—Various
Misfortunes—Distressed State—Finds St at Kamalia—Arrival in
England ........-...-+-- : . oDepece tune capsccen es Ep
CHAPTER IX.
PARK’S SECOND JOURNEY.
Views under which he was sent out—Departure—Overtaken by the
Rainy Season—Great Sickness and Distress—Embarks on the Niger—
Negotiations with the King of Bambarra—Obtains Permission to build
a Vessel—Sansanding—Sets sail—Accounts of his Death. ....... 100
CHAPTER X.
VARIUUS TRAVELLERS.
Horneman—Nicholls—Roentgen—Adams—Riley ...++.esesseeese+ 108
CHAPTER XI.
GOVERNMENT EXPEDITIONS.
Great Expedition ae 5 ed under Tuckey and Peddie—Captain Tuckey
reaches the Congo— Difficulties encountered—Great Sickness—Disas -
trous Issue—Major Peddie arrives at Kakundy—His Death—Captain
5 Campbell advances into the Foulah Territory—Obliged to return—His
Death—Gray—Laing—Ritchie and Lyon—Death of Ritchie...... 121
{
CHAPTER XII.
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
Arrangements with the Court of Tripoli~ The Travellers arrive there—
Journey to Mourzouk—Difficulties—Agreement with Boo Khalloom—
Departure—The Desert--Tibboos and Tuaricks—Arrive at the Lake
Tchad—The Yeou—Kouka—Visit to the Sheik—The Sultan—D
tion of Bornou—Denham’s Excursion to Mandara—Great Range of
Mountains—Disastrous Expedition—War against the Mungas—Ex-
cursion to Loggun—Expedition against the La Salas—Biddoomahs—
Clapperton’s Journey into Houssa— Appearance of that Country—
Kano—Sackatoo—Sultan Bello—Return of the Travellers........ 126
CHAPTER XIil.
= CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY, &¢.
Objects of this Journey—-Departure from Badagry—Death of Pearce and
CONTENTS. 1x
of Morrison—Kingdom of Yarriba—Eyeo—Kiama—Wawa—Boussa—
Particulars respecting Park—Ny ffee— Koolfu— Zaria—Kano—Siege of
' Coonia—Violent Conduct of Sultan Bello—Sickness and Death of
Clapperton at Sackatoo—His Servant Lander”*returns, partly by a
new Route—Laing’s Expedition—He reaches Timbuctoo—Assassi-
nated—Uaillié undertakes a Journey—Reaches Jenne—Timbuctoo—
Aroai—The Desert—aArrival at Tangier... ....seeeeceeceeseoee 176
CHAPTER XIV.
WESTERN AFRICA.
General View of this Coast—Dahomey; Norris and M‘Leod—Foota
Jallo; Watt and Winterbottom—Ashantee ; Embassies of Bowdich
and Dupuis; War—Adams’ Account of Benin and Waree....... 197
CHAPTER XV.
SOUTHERN AND EASTERN AFRICA.
The Cape—Settlement of the Dutch—Kolben— Hope, Sparrman, Le Vail-
lant—Barrow ; Caffres; Bosjesmans—Trutter and Sommerville—Dr.
Cowan and his Party—Their Assassination—Lichtenstein—Campbell’s
(the Missionary) First and Second Journeys—Burchell—Thompson—
Invasion of the Mantatees—Zoolas........ceecescescenccesecess QT
CHAPTER XVI.
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
Distinction between Native and Foreign Tribes—Natives—Agriculture
—Manufactures —Trade— Domestic Accommodations — Intellectual
Character—Superstitions—War and Slavery—Some amiable Fea-
tures—Forms of Government—Foreign Races—Mohammedan Con-
verts—European Colonization—Cape of Good Hope—Albany District
PP SEM cua tans aah vavade?s snes wee va Vaweigs.epces cas cal, 6 Sp
CHAPTER XVII.
GEOLOGY OF AFRICA.
Form and Situation of Africa—Its great Natural Regions or Divisions.—
1. Geology of the Atlas or Northern Region—Age of the Atlas Moun-
tains.—2. Geology of the Sahara Region—Subterranean Villages near
Tripoli; in Spain and France—Tertiary Rocks of Benioleed—Soudan
or Black Mountains—Petrified Wood in the Desert—-Horrid Conse-
quences of the Slave-trade—Human Skeletons in the Desert—Natron
and Salt Lakes—Desert of Bilma—Sultan of Fezzan and a Slave—On
what Formation does the Sand of the Desert rest ’—Description of a
Trona or Natron Lake—Fulgurite and native Meteoric Iron in the
Desert—Observations on the Sand of the Desert—Moving Pillars of
Sand—Sand-wind—How the prevailing Winds affect the Sand of the
Desert—What is the Geognostical Age of the Sahara?—3. Geology
of the Region to the South of the Sahara, and to the North of the
Great Table-land—African Gold.—4. Geology of the Great Table-land
of Africa—Geology of the Coast from Sierra Leone to Cape Negro—
- Cape of Good Hope District—Distribution of its Chains of Mountains,
Plains and Valleys, or Kloofs—Description of the Karroo Plains—
x CONTENTS.
Geognosy of the Peninsula of the Cape of Good Hope—The Lion’s
Rump—Lion’s Head—Table Mountain—Devil’s Peak—To what Class
of Rocks do those of the Cape Peninsula belong?—At what Period
did the Cape Rocks rise above the Level of the Sea ?— in-
crusted with Calcareous Sand confounded with Coral, and ced as
a Proof of the very recent Emergence from the Ocean of the Lands
supporting them—Geology of the Table-land, properly so called—Ac-
count of the Sibilo of the Africans—Geological Survey of the Karroe
Ground recommended—Rivers—South African Lakes—South African
Springs—Remarks on the Importance of a Knowledge of the Natural
History and Chemical Comyn wi Spang ae of Caffraria.
Natal, &c.—Conclusion. - ie a ee
CHAPTER XVIII.
NATURAL HISTORY OF THE QUADRUPEDS OF AFRICA.
Introductory Observations — Orang-outang — Monkeys — Baboons—Le-
murs—Galagos—Bats—Shrew-mice—Cape Mole — Tenree — Ratel —
Otuter—Jackals and Wild Dogs—Civets—Lion—Panther and Leopard
—Lynxes—Squirrels—Marmots—Sand Mole—Gerboa—Rats and Mice
—Dormice—Porcupines—Hares and Rabbits—Cape Ant-eater—Manis
—Elephant—Rhinoceros—Ethiopian Hog—Hippopotamus— Zebra —
Quagga—Camel—Dromedary—Red Deer—Giraffe—Antelopes of vari-
ous kinds—Gnu—Cape Buffalo—Egyptian Goat and Sheep-.-.... 290
CHAPTER XIX.
NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BIRDS OF AFRICA.
Introductory Observations—Vultures—Serpent-eater—Eagles—Hawks
—Owls—Butcher-birds—Thrushes—Buntings—Colius—Beef-eaters—
Rollers—Goat-suckers—Swallows—Hoopoes—Promerops — Creepers
—Bee-eater—Kingfishers—Hornbills— W oodpeckers—Cuckoos — Ho-
ney-guide—Parrots— Pogonias—Trogon—Musophaga— Touraco — Pi-
geons—Guinea Fowls—Quails—Partridges, &c.—Ostrich—
—Balearic Cranes—Flamingo—Gigantic Stork—Umber—Snipe and
Woodcock—Sandpiper—Courier—Plover—Penguin —Pelican—Plotus
—Tern—Gull—Albatross—Cape Petrel—Spur-winged Goose—Moun-
tain Goose—Egyptian Goose—Sheldrake—Musk-duck ........... 323
CHAPTER XX.
NATURAL HISTORY OF THE REPTILES, FISHES, SHELLS, INSECTS, &c.
OF AFRICA.
Introductory Observations — Crocodiles — Lizards — Chameleon — Ser-
peuts —Frogs—General Observations on Fishes
Cottus—Scorpena—Zeus—Remora—Labrus — Mackarel — Surmul
—Flying Gurnard—Electric Silure—Salmon—Polypterus—Argentir
—Flying-fish—Poly neme—African Herring ae myrus.
tions on Shells—Various African Species—Remarks on the Distri sutio
of Insects—-Goliathus, &c.—Paussus—Mantis—Locusts—Butterfly
Tribe — Boos Seorpiio-Genipeles—Zoopyter~ Corel Sponge
Guinea Worm. eeeweseeee® . see eee ee, stee8 tee cenereeseees BER
ENGRAVINGS.
Map of Africa..... SEE? eas aes sescesceeceee 10 face the Titlepage.
Vicnetre—Caravan in the Desert.
Group of. “ae i a Jillemen or ae Musicians, and Gree-
gree Man or Magician .. agin aig = scab Cicias chniawtalqhnld Sabra le emeaia ee
SE IY DIAM GRG 253 w< Fad wig yt Sd Wea ing ie o aeleidnaee Sure de aml EE
Park’s Routes ........ he dc I CON mM ATER RS eater - 82
Tuarick on his Camel, with Male and Female Tibboo .-........... 134
Denham and Clapperton’s Routes........-...-.005 West ges ‘ . , - ¢ - SYS Sap
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CHAPTER XII.
Journey of Denham and Clapperton. bait
Noruine could shake the determination of the British go-
vernment to obtain, by some means or other, a competent
degree of information respecting the unknown countries of:
Africa. The great favour and influence enjoyed at the
court of Tripoli was still regarded as a favourable cireum-
stance. It was chiefly due, as already observed, to the pru-
dence and ability of Mr. Warrington, without whose advice
scarcely any thing of importance was transacted. The ba-
shaw was therefore disposed to renew his protection to any
mission which Britain might send. Nor could the protec-
-
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 127
tion of any sovereign have been more efficient; for the
influence of this petty prince and the terror of his name
almost unbounded in the greatest kingdoms of Central
a. One weapon, the gun, in the hands of his troops,
gives him all this superiority ; for the remoter nations, from
the Nile to the Atlantic, scarcely know any other arms be-
sides the spear, the bow, and the javelin. A musket among
those tribes is an object of almost supernatural dread ; indi-
viduals have been seen kneeling down before it, speaking
to it in whispers, and addressing to it earnest supplications.
With troops thus armed, the bashaw of Tripoli is esteemed
in Northern Africa the most potent monarch on earth ; and
it is a matter of surprise among the natives that he has not
ere now compelled all Europe to embrace the Mohammedan
faith. He could therefore assure the English, that for any
but physical obstacles, they might travel as safely from Tri-
poli to Bornou, as from Edinburgh to London.
Under the confidence inspired by these circumstances,
government prepared another expedition, and without diff-
culty procured a fresh band of adventurers, who undertook
to brave all its perils. Major Denham, Lieutenant Clap-
perton of the navy, and Dr. Oudney, a naval surgeon pos-
sessing a considerable knowledge of natural history, were
appointed to this service. Without delay they proceeded to
‘Tripoli, where they arrived on the 18th November, 1821.
They were immediately introduced to the bashaw, whom
they found sitting cross-legged on a carpet, attended by
armed negroes. After treating them to sherbet and coffee,
he invited them to a hawking party, where he appeared
mounted on a milk-white Arabian steed superbly capari-
soned, having a saddle of crimson velvet richly studded
with gold nails, and with embroidered trappings. He was
preceded by six chaoushes, or officers, in white silk robes ;
while two favourite negro slaves, in glittering vest, light
_burnouse, and white turban, supported him on each side.
The hunt began on the borders of the Desert, where parties
of six or eight Arabs dashed forwards quick as lightning,
fired suddenly, and rushed back with loud cries. The skill
with which they manceuvred their steeds, whirling the long”
musket over their heads as they rode at full gallop, appeared
quite surprising.
' Although the English were personally well treated at Tri-
128 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
poli, they could not shut their eyes to the reigning barba-
rism. The sheik, Belgassum Khalifa, a fine old Arab, un-
derstood to be high in the favour of the bashaw, : en
one evening at an elegant entertainment in the palace, when |
on reaching his own door a pistol-shot wounded him in the
arm, and on his entering the passage a second. penetrated
his body. He staggered into the house, denouncing his own
nephew as the author of the assassination. The murderers
rushed in, and completed their crime by stabbing him seven
times with their daggers, while his wife received two wounds,
in endeavouring to save him. The three actors in this tra-
gedy instantly fled for protection to the British consulate ;
but Mr. Warrington sent notice to the bashaw, “that the
murderers of Khalifa would find no protection under the
flag of England.”’ That chief, however, either privy to the
crime, or disposed to wink at its commission, expressed his
regret that the guilty persons had found shelter in the con-
sulate ; but added, that he could not think of violating such
a sanctuary. Repeated assurance was given that he might
send any force, or use any means, to drag them from be-
neath a banner that never was disgraced by giving protec-
tion to assassins. The bashaw at length, ashamed of his
apathy, sent sixteen stout fellows, by whom the ruffians
were seized ; and in less than an hour the murderers were
seen hanging from the castle-walls. (
The mission, fortified with recommendations to the sul-
tan of Fezzan, now entered upon their long and dreary pil-
grimage to Mourzouk, where they arrived on the 8th April, —
1822. This prince received them with courtesy and affa-
bility, but gave himself very little trouble in making provi-
sion for the continuance of their journey. He even inti-
mated his intention of visiting Tripoli, and the necessity of
their remaining till his return. This arrangement was most
S
disheartening ; nor did they know what reliance to place in.
the sincerity of Boo Khalloom, a great merchant, who in-
vited them to accompany an expedition which he was pre-
paring for Soudan. ‘The sultan and he soon after departed,
each with large presents for the bashaw, to intrigue against
one another at the court of Tripoli. After this there was
scarcely a camel left in Fezzan, or any other means of pro-
secuting discovery. Major Denham then saw no alterna-
tive but that he himself should hasten back to Tripoli, and
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 129 .
-remonstrate with the bashaw on this apparent violation of
his promise. After atedious journey of twenty days, with
only three attendants, he arrived, and waited on the barba-
‘rian, who received him with his usual courtesy ; but, not
giving that full satisfaction which was expected, the Major
lost no time in setting sail for England, to lodge a complaint
with his own court. This step was painfully felt by the
bashaw, who sent vessel after vessel, one of which at last
overtook Major Denham while performing quarantine at
Marseilles, and announced that arrangements were actually
made with Boo Khalloom for escorting him to the capital
of Bornou. Accordingly, on the Major’s return to Tri-
poli, he found the Arab chief already on the borders of the
Desert.
This trader, who was now to be a guide to the English
into the immense regions of the south, was a personage of
a very different character from what we in this country can
form any idea of. The African caravan-merchant has no-
thing in common with that respectable class of men who,
‘seated im counting-houses at London or Amsterdam, direct
the movement of their ships over the ocean, and count the
silent accumulation of their profits. He, on the contrary,
must accompany his merchandise from one extremity to the
other of a great continent, and across its immense deserts,
the scene of much suffering, and frequently of death itself.
Nor is it from a parched wilderness and a burning climate
that he has most to apprehend. His path is' every where
beset by bands whose trade is plunder, and who find amuse-
ment in assassination. He must therefore have his pro-
perty guarded by armed men, ready to defend with their
blood what his money has purchased. These followers,
peing in continual service, and exposed to frequent fight-
ing, become practised soldiers, and are more than a match
for the roving barbarians who infest the Sahara. Even
the greatest princes view these merchant-chiefs with fear
and jealousy ; and though they contrive to draw consider-
able advantage from their trade, scarcely consider the king-
dom as their own while their troops are within its boun-
daries. The merchants, unhappily, do not confine them-
selves to self-defence ; but, seeing robbery practised on
every side against themselves, begin to retaliate, and soon
find it cheaper, and, according to African ideas, not less
130 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
honourable, to replenish their stores by plunder than by pur-
chase. Slaves, the staple of their trade, are generally ob-
tained by the most atrocious vio.ence, in expeditions called
ghrazzves or felateas, undertaken solely for that guilty pur-
pose ; but, by engaging in such enterprises themselves, the
merchants enjoy the benefit, since they reckun it such, of
paying in blood instead of money. Provided they can es-
cape the dangers and casualties to which they are exposed,
their profits are immense, the value of merchandise being
somewhat more than tripled by its conveyance across the
Desert. 'Thus a few successful journeys enable a man to
acquire a fortune almost princely, and a high degree of in-
fluence in the Barbary States. In short, the merchant, the
warrior, the prince, the thief, are united in this extracndi-
mary character; and he is prepared, according to circum-
stances, to act in one or in all of these capacities. Yet
Boo Khalleoom might be reckoned a good specimen of this
evil race. He possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and
was honourable, and even humane, so far as a slave-mer-
chant could retain these qualities; he was dragged, too,
with reluctance into the most odious parts of his vocation,
—while at home his generosity was such as to make him
~ almost idolized.
Under the guidance of this remarkable persona Major
Denham set forth, with almost the full assurance of reach-
ing those depths of Africa from which no European had
ever yet returned. Little occurred to diversify the usual
monotony of a desert route, till they arrived at Sockna,
where Boo Khalloom, who was fond of display, determined
to make his entrance with almost kingly pomp. He rode a
white Tunisian horse, with gilded saddle and ‘trappings of
scarlet cloth bordered with gold ; his dress consisted of va-
rious caftans and robes of the richest silks, adorned with -
gold buttons, lace, and embroidery : the burnouse, a present
from the bashaw, had cost 400 dollars. .The citizens meet-
ing the party with shouts and guns, and the females with
singing and dancing, formed a species of triumphal proces-
sion. Several days were spent at Sockna, Boo Khalloom
being ill, and wishing to try the eftect of various charms
and superstitious remedies. The English, meantime, wit-
nessed a great marriage ceremony, the chief pomp of which
consisted in placing the bride in a basket on the back of a.
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 131
camel and leading her round the town, while numerous
horsemen galloped up and discharged their muskets quite
close to her head; the honour of which compliment was
understood to compensate for the fear which it could not fail
to occasion. _
In journeying onwards to Mourzouk the travellers passed
along the naked sides of the Gebel Assoud, which the Major
crossed now for the third time; but no familiarity could
Telieve the sense of dreariness and misery which its aspect
occasioned. A rainy day came as a blessing to the whole
party, especially to the poor slaves, on whom Boo Khalloom
had only in special kindness bestowed one draught of water
in the day to cool their burning thirst. On the 30th Oc-
tober the caravan made its entry into Mourzouk with simi-
lar pomp as into Sockna, amid the shouts of the inhabitants,
whom the chief, by his liberality, had inspired with the
warmest attachment. The Major, however, was much dis-
heartened by not seeing any of his countrymen amid the
joyous crowd; and his fears were confirmed by finding Dr.
Oudney just recovering from a severe attack in the chest,
and Mr. Clapperton in bed the fifteenth day with ague,—
facts which, combined with the unfortunate result of the
last expedition and the sickly look of the natives themselves,
indicated some peculiarly baneful influence, without any
visible cause, in the climate of Mourzouk.
Invalids so severely afflicted were not very fit to begin a
‘ong and laborious journey ; but their ardour was extreme,
and imagining that a change of air would be beneficial, they
contrived, even before Boo Khalloom was ready to set out,
to move forward to Gatrone, leaving Major Denham behind
at Mourzouk. On the 29th November the whole caravan
broke up from that city, and began their journey through
the Desert. ‘They were escorted by nearly every inhabitant
who could muster a horse. The expedition, besides the
English, comprised 210 Arabs, ranged in tens and twenties,
under different chiefs. The most numerous were the
M’Garha, who, to the amount of seventy, came from the
barren shore of the Syrtes. These barbarians enlivened
the route by their traditionary tales, their songs, their ex-
temporary poems, in which all the incidents of the journey
itself were narrated; in short, by an inexhaustible fund of
wit and vivacity: Their pride, their revenge, their rob-
132 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
beries, did not come into view in their intercourse with the
English, who, being received into their camp, having eaten
of their bread and salt, and being bound in the cord of
friendship, were entitled to all the ‘Tights of re ad and
would have been protected even at the hazard of
The caravan arrived in due time at Trask a small
town containing a fine carpet-manufactory, and ruled by a
marabout, who used the sanctity of his character to main-
tain order and promote the prosperity of the place. Pass-
ing that station they were soon in the heart of the Desert,
where they spent whole days. without seeing a living thing,
even a bird or an insect, that did not belong to the caravan
itself. After painful marches under the direct action of the
solar rays, they were delighted by the stillness and beauty
of the night. The moon and stars shone with peculiar
briliiancy ; cool breezes succeeded to the burning heat of
the day; arid on removing a few inches of the loose hot
soil, a soft and refreshing bed was obtained. Even the
ripple of the blowing sand sounded like a gentle and mur-
muring stream. Every noise was rendered doubly impres-
sive by the deep stillness, as well as by an echo from the
surface of the surrounding waste. ‘The road derived a ve
peculiar aspect from the quantity of salt with which the
soil was impregnated ; the clods were often cracked so as
to resemble a ploughed field; and from the sides of cavities
were hanging beautiful crystals of that minera! like the
finest frost-work. Sometimes the ground for several miles
was glazed over, resembling a.sheet of ice; but though the
surface was very hard, the interior was brittle, and the salt
fell away in flakes.
The travellers had not proceeded far when the melan-
choly aspect of the Desert was heightened by a succession
of objects which could not be viewed without the de
horror. The ground was strewed with the skeletons of
former travellers, who had perished in the attempt to cross
this extensive wilderness. These at first appeared singly,
but afterward increased till they amounted to fifty or sixty
in aday. At Meshroo a hundred were seen toget T; and
near the wells at E] Hammar they were found f in
countless multitudes. One forenoon, as Major nham
was dozing on horseback, he was awakened by the sound.
of something crashing under his horse’s feet, and on look- ©
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 133
mg down, saw the animal trampling on two perfect human
skeletons. A movement of one of the feet had separated
the scull from the trunk, and driven it forward like a ball.
In some of these remains portions of the flesh and hair
were left, and even the features were still distinguishable.
Two female skeletons lay closely twined together, having
evidently been faithful friends, who had died in each other’s
arms. The Arabs gave little proof of their boasted sensi-
bility in the utter indifference with which they viewed these
dismal objects, driving about the limbs with their firelocks,
passing coarse jests upon the dead, and deriding the sym-
pathy manifested by their English companions. They told
them these were only blacks, ‘damn their fathers,”—the
barbarous prejudices arising from difference of religion and
lineage having thus extinguished in their breasts every touch.
of human sympathy. Major Denham appears in one place
to countenance the popular belief that these bodies were the
remains of caravans buried beneath tempests of moving
sand; but none of his facts support this conclusion, or con-
tradict the opinion of Browne, that such victims have in
most instances perished from other causes. They were
lying open and exposed, without even a covering of dust;
and the catastrophe of the largest group was too well known,
having been a body of slaves, the chief booty obtained by
the sultan of Fezzan during his last expedition into Sou-
dan. ‘The troop had left Bornou without an adequate sup-
ply of provisions, which failed entirely before they ap-
proached Mourzouk. That want, or perhaps fatigue, was
the real cause of this destruction was manifest from the .
fact that the sufferers were all negroes, while their Arab
masters had taken care to reserve for themselves the means
of reaching home. |
In this route the travellers had on one side the Tibboos,
on the other fhe Tuaricks, two native tribes, probably of
great antiquity, and having no alliance with the Arab race,
now so widely spread over the continent. The Tibboos
were on the left, and it was through their villages that the
caravan passed. ‘These people live partly on the milk of
their camels, which pick up a scanty subsistence on the few
verdant spots that rise amid the Desert, partly by carry-
ing on a small trade between Mourzouk and Bornou, in
which they are so busily — that many do not spend
134 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.-
at home more than four months in the year. They are
black, though without the negro features; the men ugly,
but the young females possessed of some beauty, not wholly
obscured by the embellishments of coral stuck m the nose,
and of oil streaming over the face. They are besides a
gay, good-humoured, thoughtless race, with all the African
passion for the song andthe dance; which last they prac-
tise gracefully, and with movements somewhat analogous to
the Grecian. This cheerfulness appears wonderful consi-
dering the dreadful calamity with which they are threatened
every day. Once a year, or oftener, an inroad is made by
their fierce neighbours, the Tuaricks, who spare neither age _
nor sex, and sweép away all that comes within their reach.
The cowardly Tibboos dare not even look them in the face;
they can only mount to the top of certain steep rocks with
flat summits and perpendicular sides, near one of which
every village is built. They carry up with them every
thing that can be removed, and this rude defence avails
against stillruder assailants. The savage Tuaricks, again,
were observed by Clapperton and Oudney in a journey to
the westward from Mourzouk, and were found in their pri-
vate character to be frank, honest, and hospitable. The
females are neither immured nor oppressed, as is usual
among rude and Mohammedan tribes, but meet with notice
and respect; indeed, the domestic habits of this nation
have much resemblance to the European. They are a com-
pletely wandering race of shepherds and robbers, holding
in contempt all who live in houses and cultivate the ground ;
yet they are, perhaps, the only native Africans who have
letters and an alphabet, which they inscribe, not on books
and parchments indeed, but on the dark rocks that checker
the surface of their territory; and in places where they
have long resided every stone is seen covered with their ©
writings.*
Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos, was found a mean town
with walls of earth, but surrounded by numerous lakes
containing the purest salt, the most valuable of all articles
for the commerce of Soudan. The inhabitants, however,
though deeply mortified, durst not prevent the powerful
Tuaricks from lading their caravans with it, and under-
. * The group in the accompanying plate consists of a Tuarick on his
camel, with a male and female Tibboo standing beside him.
~— a
,
\"S
=
Tuarick on his Camel, with Male and Female Tibboo.—{p. 134.]
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 135
selling them in all the markets. About a mile beyond Bilma
was a fine spring, spreading around, and forming a little
circle of the richest verdure. ‘This was the last vegetable
life that the discoverers were to see during a long march
of thirteen days. In these wilds, where the constant drift
causes hills to rise or disappear in the course of a night;
all traces of a road are soon obliterated, and the eye of the
traveller is guided only by dark rocks which at certain in-
tervals raise their heads amid the sterile waste. Sometimes
the sand is formed into hills with perpendicular sides, from
twenty to sixty feet high. These the camels are made to
slide down; in which operation they can only be kept steady
by the driver hanging with all his weight on the tail, other-
wise they would tumble forward, and throw the load over
their heads. ‘‘Tremendously dreary are these marches ;
as far as the eye can reach, billows of sand bound the pros-
ect.” Whenever the wind was high, volumes of this sub-
stance darkened the air, through which it was sometimes
impossible to attempt a passage.
After a fortnight spent in the Desert, the expedition saw
symptoms of a return to the region of life. There appeared
scattered spots of thin herbage ; little valleys watered by
springs were filled with the shrub called swag, on which
grew delicate berries; small herds of gazelles fed in these
retreats ; even the droves of hyenas indicated the revival of
animal nature. As the travellers advanced, the country im-
proved; at every mile the valleys became more gay and
verdant ; and the creeping vines of the colocynth in full
bloom, ‘with the red flowers of the kossom, converted many
of these spots into a little Arcadia. The freshness of the
air, with the melody of the hundred songsters that were —
perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused
an aromatic odour, formed the most delightful contrast to
the desolate region through which they had passed. Here
again were found Tibboos, of the tribe called Gunda, a more
alert and active people than the former; the men still,
uglier, the girls still handsomer and more delicately
formed. ‘This sept have about 5000 camels, on whose milk
alone they support themselves for half the year, and their
horses for the whole year; the little crop of gussub and
millet being too precious for these animals, which drink
camels’ milk, sweet or sour, and by this strange diet are
136 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
kept in the highest health and condition. The chief, Mina
Tahr, or the Black Bird, waited upon the party, and was
presented by Boo Khalloom with a coarse scarlet burnouse
and a tawdry silk caftan: these paltry dresses, being the
finest that had ever invested the person of this chieftain,
threw him into ecstasies of delight, which he continued for
hours to testify by joyful shouts and high leaps into the air.
Major Denham’s watch singularly delighted him; but solely,
as soon appeared, from the pleasure of seeing his own per-
son in the bright metallic case; so that.a very small mirror
was deemed still more precious.
In this approach to the territory of Soudan the English
began to witness the exercise of mutual plunder between
the caravan and the natives. Every animal which straggled
from the main body was instantly carried off ; even a dog
had been eaten up, and only the bones left. A herald,
handsomely equipped, who had .been sent forward to the
sultan of Bornou, was found stripped, and tied naked to a
tree. On the other hand, no sooner did the caravan come
in view of any village than the inhabitants were descried on
the plain beyond in full flight with all their effects. The
Arabs pursued, in indignation only, as they pretended, at
not being allowed to purchase what they wanted; but the
conduct of the poor natives was evidently the result of long
experience ; and Major Denham saw executed on one party
the most rapid process of plunder he ever witnessed. In a
few seconds the camels were eased of their loads, and the poor
women and girls stripped to the skin. Boo Khalloom, on this
and other occasions, interposed, and insisted on restitution ;
but whether he would equally have done so without the
urgent remonstrances of the English appears to be doubtful.
The expedition, now advancing rapidly, entered Kanem,
the most northern province of Bornou, and soon arrived at
Lari, a town of two thousand inhabitants, composed of
clusters of rush-huts, conical at top, and looking like well-
thatched corn-stacks. This place formed a remarkable
stage in their progress ; for, from the rising ground in front
of it was seen stretching out the boundless expanse of the
great interior sea of Africa, the lake Tchad, “ glowing with
the golden rays of the sun.” Major Denham, who saw
here the key to his grand scheme of discovery, hastened
down to the shores of this mighty water. These were
_—
137
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
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138 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
darkened with the varied and beautiful plumage of ducks,
geese, pelicans, and cranes four or five feet high, immense
spoonbills of snowy whiteness, yellow-legged plovers, with
numerous unknown waterfowl, sporting around, and quietly
feeding at half pistol-shot. It is not to be wondered at, that
Major Denham should have felt reluctant to invade the pro-
found tranquillity of these feathered tribes, and betray the
confidence with which they received him. At last, over-
coming his scruples, he took up his gun, and soon filled a
large basket. It was evident here, that remarkable changes
in the bed of the Tchad had recently taken place ; for,
though this was not the rainy season, long stalks of the
grain called gussub were growing amid the waters on ground
formerly dry.
The caravan now marched along the shores of the lake,
and arrived in two days at Woodie, a large town, the first
which was found thoroughly negro. The inhabitants lived
in sluggish plenty, on the produce of a fertile country, with-
out any attempt to obtain either elegancies or luxuries. It_
was resolved that the caravan should pause here, till a mes-
senger could be sent forward to obtain for them invitation,
or permission, to present themselves before the sheik of
Bornou. The political state of that country was at this
time somewhat singular. Twenty years before it had been
overrun and completely conquered, with the most dreadful
devastation, by the Fellatas, a western people, to whose em-
pire Bornou seemed to have been finally annexed. There
still remained, however, a spirit in the people which spurned
at a foreign yoke. The present sheik, a native of Kanem,
of humble birth, but of superior talents and energy, rallied
round him a band of bold spearmen, and, animating them by
a pretended vision of the prophet, hoisted the green flag,
and attacked the invaders. His success was such, that in
- ten months the Fellatas were completely driven out of Bor- - '
nou, which they had never since re-entered, though desul-
tory hostilities were still waged between the two nations.
This leader, idolized by the army who had conquered under
him, was now the real master of the country, yet the reve-
rence of the nation for their ancient line of kings was too
deep to allow the legitimate heir to be wholly superses
He was drawn forth from obscurity, received the title of sul-
tan, and was established in empty pomp at the city of
———oo lh oe, eee
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 139
Birnie ; while the successful soldier, under an humbler name,
retained in his own hands all the real power of the kingdom.
After five days an invitation arrived from the sheik to
visit him at Kouka, for which city the travellers immediately
departed. In their way they passed the Yeou, the first river
of any description which had crossed their path in this long
journey, exciting considerable interest from being fora mo-
ment supposed to be the Niger flowing from 'Timbuctoo:
The stream was fifty yards broad, and proceeded with some
rapidity eastward into the Tchad: in the wet season its
breadth became twice as great. On the bank, for the con-
venience of passengers, lay two large canoes, rudely put to-
gether, constructed of planks fastened by cords, and having
the openings stuffed with straw. ‘The men and goods were
ferried over on these rafts, while the horses and camels,
having their heads fastened to them, swam across.
In approaching Kouka Major Denham experienced con-
siderable emotion, in consequence of the contradictory re-
ports which he heard respecting the array and aspect of
this great central court of Africa. Some told him that the
sheik was surrounded by a mere handful of half-armed, half-
naked negroes, fit only for plunder; while,. according to
others, he was at the head of a numerous cavalry, highly
equipped and well-disciplined. The Major pressed eagerly
forward before the main body, and, emerging from the
forest, had his curiosity gratified by seeing a body of several
thousand horse drawn up in line, and extending on each
side as far as the eye could reach. He now awaited the
coming up of the Arabs; at sight of whom the Bornou
troops, who had previously stood immoveuable, raised a
mighty shout or yell, which rent the air, followed by a sound
equally loud of rude martial music. Then, forming de-
tached parties, they galloped up full speed to the strangers,
never pausing till they almost touched the horses’ heads,
when they suddenly wheeled round and returned, exclaim-
- ing, “Blessing! blessing! sons of your country! sons of
your country!” They had soon completely surrounded the
party, and wedged them in so close, waving their spears
over their heads, that it was impossible for the strangers to
move. Boo Khalloom had nearly lost all patience at this
vehement and incommodious welcome ; but at length Barca
Gana, the commander-in-chief, made his appearance, re-
140 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
stored order, and caused a way to be opened, by which te
caravan, though somewhat slowly, at length made its wig
to the city. :
_ But, after their arrival at Kouka, symptoms of jealousy
appeared, and only twelve of the principal persons, the Eng-
lish included, were allowed to enter. They were led
through a wide street, lined with spearmen, to the door of
the sheik’s residence. Here the principal courtiers came
out in succession, and welcomed the party with cries of
‘* Barca! Barca!” but as no one invited them to go in, the
wrath of Boo Khalloom, who held himself scarcely inferior
to the sheik, was kindled, and he declared that, unless im-
mediately admitted, he would return to his tent.
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DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 143
‘magnitude. The presents were silently deposited ; nothing
passed ; and the courtiers, tottering beneath the weight of
their turbans and their bellies, could not display that punc-
tilions activity which had been so annoying at the palace
of the sheik. This was all that was ever seen of the
‘sultan of Bornou. The party then set out for Kouka,
passing, on their way, through Angornou, the largest city
in the kingdom, containing at least 30,000 inhabitants.
During his residence at Kouka and Angornou, Major
Denham frequently attended the markets, where, besides
the proper Bornouese, he saw the Shouaas, an Arab tribe,
who are the chief breeders of cattle; the Kanemboos from
the north, with their hair neatly and tastefully plaited ; and
the Musgow, a southern clan of the most savage aspect.
A loose robe or shirt, of the cotton cloth of the country,
often fine and beautifully died, was the universal dress ;
and high rank was indicated by six or seven of these wom
one above another. Ornament was studied chiefly in
plaiting the hair, in attaching to it strings of brass or silver
beads, in inserting large pieces of amber or coral into the
nose, the ear, and the lip; and when to these was added a face
streaming with oil, the Bornouese belle was fully equipped
for conquest. Thus adorned, the wife or daughter of a
rich Shouaa might be seen entering the market in full
style, bestriding an ox, which she managed dexterously by
a leathern thong passed through the nose, and whose un-
wieldly bulk she contrived even to torture into something
like capering and curvetting. Angornou is the chief mar-
ket, and the crowd there is sometimes immense, amounting
often to eighty or a hundred thousand individuals. All the
produce of the country is bought and sold in open market ;
for shops and warehouses do not enter into the system of
African traffic. There is displayed an abundance of their
principal grain, called gussub, a good dealof wheat and rice,
an ample store of bullocks, and no.small number of sheep and
fowls ; but not a vegetable except a few onions, nor a sin-
gle fruit of any kind,—the Bornouese not having attained
to the production of these elegant luxuries. The objects
most prized and rare are pieces of amber, coral, and brass,
to adorn the countenances of the females; these are sold
readily, and paid in money, while other articles are only
exchanged for cloth. Among other rarities are sometimes
‘144 DENAHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
offered young lions, to be kept as domestic favourites. The
Major found one of them enclosed by a circle of spectators,
and was invited to step up and stroke it on the mane. He
was about to comply, though with sensations which he
admits himself unable to describe, when the animal sud-
denly brushed past him, broke through the circle, and
rushed to another station. The sheik was afterward kind
enough to send him a young lion as a pet, which the Major
politely returned, expressing regret at not being able to
find room for so fine a specimen of African zoology.
Bornou, taken altogether, forms an extensive plain,
stretching 200 miles along the western shore of the im-
mense lake already mentioned, and nearly the same dis-
tance inland. ‘This sea periodically changes its bed in an
extraordinary manner. During the rains, when its tri-
butary rivers pour in thrice the usual quantity of water, it
inundates an extensive tract of country, from which it re-
tires in the dry season. This space, then overgrown with
dense underwood, and with grass double the height of a
man, contains a motley assemblage of wild beasts,—lions,
panthers, hyenas, elephants, and serpents of extraordinary
form and bulk. These monsters, while undisturbed in
this mighty den, remain tranquil, or war only with ‘each
other; but when the lake swells, and its waters rush in,
they of necessity seek refuge among the abodes of men, to
whom they prove the most dreadful scourge. Not only the
cattle, but the slaves tending the grain, often fall victims;
they even rush in large bodies into the towns. The rest
of the country, placed beyond the reach of this annual in-
undation, is in many places very fertile; and cultivation is
so limited that land may always be had in any quantity by
him who has slaves to employ upon it. This service is
performed by female captives from Musgow, who, aiding
their native ugliness by the insertion of a large piece of
silver into the upper-lip, which throws it entirely out of
shape, are coveted in no other view than for the quantity
of hard work which they can execute. The processes of
agriculture are extremely simple. Theironly fine manufac-
ture is that of tobes, or vestments of cotton skilfully woven
and beautifully died, but still not equal to those of Soudan.
In every other handicraft they are very inexpert,even in
works of iron, whichare ofthe greatest usetoamartialpeople. )
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 145
The Bornouese have, however, an ingenious mode, ré-
presented in the accompanying plate, of fishing with a very
"' »
r
A
;
= == oe
ss
simple apparatus. They take two large gourds, and fasten
them at each end to a stem of bamboo. The fisherman
seats himself upon this machine, floats with the current,
and throws his net. On drawing it up, he lays it before
him, stuns the fish with a species of mace, and bey them
into the gourds. They are afterward dried, and conveyed
over the country to a considerable distance.
The Bornouese are complete negroes both in form and
feature ; they are ugly, simple, and good-natured, but des-
titute of all intellectual culture. Only a few of the great
jighis, or doctors, of whom the sheik was one, can read the
Koran. A “great writer,” indeed, is held in still higher
estimation than with us; but his compositions consist only
of words written on scraps of paper, to be enclosed in cases,
and worn as amulets. They are then supposed to defend
their possessor against every danger, to act as charms to
destroy his enemies, and to be the main instrument in the
cure of all diseases. For this last purpose they are aided
only by a few simple applications ; yet the Bornou practice
is said to be yery successful, either through the power of
imagination, or owing to a excellent constitutions. In
146 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
the absence of all refined pleasures, various rude sports are
pursued with eagerness, and almost with fury. The most
favourite is wrestling, which the chiefs do not practise in
person, but train their slaves to exhibit in it as our jockeys
do game-cocks, taking the same pride in their prowess and
victory. Nations are often pitched against each other, the
Musgowy and the Begharmi being the most powerful.
Many of them are extremely handsome and of gigantic
size, and hence the contests between them are truly ter-
rible. Their masters loudly cheer them on, offering
high premiums for victory, and sometimes threatening in-
stant death in case of defeat. They place their trust, not
in science, but in main strength and rapid movements.
Occasionally the wrestler, eluding his adversary’s vigilance,
seizes him by the thigh, lifts him up into the air, and dashes
him against the ground. When the match is decided, the
victor is greeted with loud plaudits by the spectators, some
of whom even testify their admiration by throwing to him
presents of fine cloth. - He then kneels before his master,
who not unfrequently bestows upon him a robe worth thirty
or forty dollars, taken perhaps from his own person. Death
or maiming, however, is no unfrequent result of these en-
counters. ‘The ladies, even of rank, engage in another
very odd species of contest. Placing themselves back to
back, they cause particular parts to strike together with the
most violent collision, when she who maintains her equili-
brium, while the other lies stretched on the ground, is pro-
claimed victor with loud cheers. In this conflict the girdle
of beads worn by the more opulent females very frequently
bursts, when these ornaments are seen flying about in every
direction. To these elegant recreations is added gaming,
always the rage of uncultivated minds. Their favourite -
game is one rudely played with beans, by means of holes
made in the sand. |
Boo Khalloom, having despatched his affairs in Bornou,
wished to turn his journey to some farther account, and
proposed an expedition into the more wealthy and commer-
cial region of Houssa or Soudan; but the eager wishes of
his followers pointed to a different object. They called
upon him to lead them into the mountains of Mandara in
the south, to attack a village of the kerdies, or. unbelievers,
and carry off the people as slaves to Fezzan. He long
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 147
_ ‘stood out against this nefarious proposal ; but the sheik,
who also had his own views, took part against him; even
his own brother joined the malecontents, and at length there
appeared no other mode in~which he could return with
equal credit and profit. Influenced by these inducements,
she suffered his better judgment to be overpowered, and de-
termined to conduct his troop upon this perilous and
guilty excursion. Major Denham, allowing his zeal for
discovery to overcome other considerations, contrived, not-
withstanding the prohibition of the sheik, to be one of the
party. They were accompanied by Barca Gana, the prin-
cipal general, a negro of huge strength and great courage,
along with other warriors, and a large body of Bornou .
cavalry. These last are a fine military body in point of ex-
ternal appearance. Their persons are covered with iron
plate and mail, and they manage, with surprising dexterity,
their little active steeds, which are also supplied with de-
fensive armour. ‘They have one fault only, but that a se-
rious one,—they cannot stand the shock of an enemy.
While the contest continues doubtful, they hover round as
spectators, ready, should the tide turn against them, to spur
on their coursers to a rapid flight; but if they see their
friends victorious, and the enemy turning their backs, they
come forward and display no small vigour in pursuit and
plunder.
The road that led to Mandara formed a continued ascent
through a fertile country which contained some populous
towns. The path being quite overgrown with thick and
prickly underwood, twelve pioneers went forward with long
poles, opening a track, pushing back the branches, and
giving warning to beware of holes. These operations they
accompanied with loud praises of Barca Gana, calling out,
—‘ Who is in battle like the rolling of thunder? Barca
Gana. In battle, who spreads terror around him like the
buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana.” Even the chiefs on this
expedition carried no provisions except a paste of rice, flour,
and honey, with which they contented themselves, unless
when sheep could be procured; in which case half the ani-
mal, roasted over a frame-work of wood, was placed on the
table, and the sharpest dagger present was employed in cut-
ting it into large pieces, to be eaten without bread or salt.
At length they approached Mora, the capital of Mandara.
143 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
This was another kingdom which the energy of :ts present
sultan had rescued from the yoke of the Fellata empire;
and the strong position of its capital, enclosed by lofty ridges
of hills, had enabled it to defy repeated attacks. It consists
of a fine plain, bordered on the south by an immense and
almost interminable range of mountains. The eminences
directly in front were not quite so lofty as the hills of Cum-
berland, but bold, rocky, and precipitous, and distant sum-
mits appeared towering much higher, and shooting up a line
of sharp pinnacles resembling the needles of Mont Blanc. —
It was reported, that two months were required to cross
their greatest breadth and reach the other side, where they
rose ten times higher, and were called large moon moun-
tains. They there overlooked the plain of Adamowa,
through which the Quolla (or Niger) was said toe flow from
the westward. The hills immediately in view were thickly
clustered with villages perched on their sides and even on
their tops, and were distinctly seen from the plain of Man-
dara. They were occupied by half-savage tribes, whom the
ferocious bigotry of the nations occupying the low country
branded as pagans, and whom they claimed a right to plun-
der, seize, and drive in crowds for sale to the markets of
Fezzan and Bornou. ‘* The fires, which were visible in the »
different nests of these unfortunate beings, threw a glare
upon the bold rocks and blunt promontories of granite by
which they were surrounded, and produced a picturesque
and somewhat awful appearance.” A baleful joy gleamed
in the visage of the Arabs as they eyed these abodes of their
future victims, whom they already fancied themselves
driving in bands across the Desert. A kerdy village to
plunder was all their cry, and Boo Khalloom doubted not
that he would be able to gratify their wishes. Their com-
mon fear of the Fellatas had united the sultan of Mandara
in close alliance with the sheik, to whom he had lately mar-
ried his daughter; and the nuptials had been celebrated by
a great slave-hunt among the mountains, when, after a_
dreadful struggle, three thousand captives, by their tears
and bondage, furnished out the materials of a magnificent
matriage-festival. ;
The expedition obtained a reception quite as favourable
as had been expected. In approaching the capital they
were met by the sultan with 500 Mandara horse, wha,
- DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 149
chatging full speed, wheeled round them with the same
threatening movements which had been exhibited at Bor-
nou. The horses were of a superior breed, most skilfully
managed, and covered with cloths of various colours, as well
as with skins of the leopard and tiger-cat. This cavalry
made of course a very brilliant appearance ; but the Major
did not yet know that their valour was exactly on a level
with that of their Bornou allies. The party were then
escorted to the capital, amid the music of long pipes like
clarionets, and of two immense trumpets. They were in-
troduced next day. ‘Themode of approaching the royal re-
sidence is to gallop up to the gate with a furious speed, which
- often causes fatal accidents ; and on this occasion aman was
ridden down and killed on the spot. The sultan was found
in a dark-blue tent, sitting on a mud-bench, surrounded by
about two hundred attendants, handsomely arrayed in
silk and cotton robes.. He was an intelligent little man,
about fifty years old, with a beard dyed sky-blue. Courteous
salutations were exchanged ; during which he steadily eyed
Major Denham, concerning whom he at last inquired ; and
the traveller was advantageously introduced as belonging to
a powerful distant nation, allies of the bashaw of Tripoli.
At last, however, came the fatal question,—“‘ Is he Moslem ?
—La! la!—no! no!—What! has the great bashaw Caffre
friends ?”—-Every eye was instantly averted; the sun of
Major Denham’s favour was set; and he was never more
allowed to enter the palace. |
The bigotry of this court seems to have surpassed even
the usual bitterness of the African tribes, and our traveller
had to undergo a regular persecution, carried on especially
by Malem Chadily, the leading fighi or doctor of the court.
As Major Denham was showing to the admiring chiefs the
mode of writing with a pencil, and effacing it with Indian
rubber, Malem wrote some words of the Koran with such
force that the rubber could not wholly remove the traces of
them. He then exclaimed with triumph,“ They are the
words of God, delivered to his prophet; I defy you to erase
them.” The Major was then called upon to acknowledge
this great miracle; and, as his countenance still expressed
incredulity, he was viewed with looks of such mingled con-
_tempt and indignation as induced him to retire. Malem,
however, again assailed him with the assurance that this
N 2
150 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
was. only one of the many miracles which he could show
as wrought by the Koran; imploring him to turn, and para-
dise would be his, otherwise nothing could save him from
eternal fire. ‘Oh! said he, “while sitting in the third
heaven I shall see you in the midst of the flames, erying out
to your friend Barca Gana and myself for a drop of water ;
but the gulf will be between us :” his tears then flowed pro-
fusely. The Major, taking the general aside, entreated to
be relieved from this incessant persecution; but Gana
assured him that the fighi was a great and holy man, to
whom he ought to listen. He then held out not only para-
dise, but honours, slaves, and wives of the first families, as
gifts to be lavished on him by the sheik if he would renounce ~
his unbelief. Major Denham asked the commander, what
would be thought of himself if he should go to England and
turn Christian? ‘God forbid!” exclaimed he; ‘ but how
can you compare our faiths ; mine would lead you to para-
dise, while yours would bring me to hell. Not a word
more.”—Nothing appears to have annoyed the stranger
more than to be told that hé was of the same faith with the
kerdies or savages ; little distinction being made between
any who denied the Koran. After a long discussion of this
question, he thought the validity of his reasoning would be
admitted, when he could point to a party of those wretches
devouring a dead horse, and appealed to Boo Khalloom if
he had ever seen the English do the same; but to this,
which was not after all a very deep theological argument,
the Arab replied,—“ I know they eat the flesh of swine,
and, God knows, that is worse.” Grant me patience,”
exclaimed I to myself,—“ this is almost too much to bear
and to remain silent.” .
The unfortunate kerdies, from the moment that they
saw Arab tents in the valley of Mandara, knew the dread-
ful calamity which awaited them. ‘To avert it, and to pro-
pitiate the sultan, numerous parties came down with pre-
sents of honey, asses, and slaves. Finally appeared the
Musgow, a more distant and savage race, mounted on
small fiery steeds, covered only with the skin of a goat or
leopard, and with necklaces made of the teeth of their ene-
mies, ‘They threw themselves at the feet of the sultan,
casting sand on their heads, and uttering the most piteous
cries. ‘The monarch, apparently moved by these gifts and
ad
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 151
‘entreaties, began to intimate to Boo Khalloom his hopes
that these savages might by gentle means be reclaimed and
led to embrace the true faith. ‘These hopes were held by
the latter in the utmost derision ; and he privately assured
Major Denham that nothing would more annoy this devout
Mussulman than to see them fulfilled, whereby he must
have forfeited all right to drive these unhappy creatures in
crowds to the markets of Soudan and Bornou. In fact,
poth the sultan and the sheik had a much deeper aim. Every
effort was used to induce Boo Khalloom to engage in the
attack of some strong Fellata posts, by which the country
was hemmed in; and as the two monarchs viewed the
Arabs with extreme jealousy, it was strongly suspected
that their defeat would not have been regarded as a public
calamity. The royal councils were secret and profound,
and it was not known what influences worked upon Boo
Khalloom. On this occasion unfortunately he was mas-
tered by his evil genius, and consented to the proposed
attack ; but as he came out and ordered his troops to pre-
pare for marching, his countenance bore such marks of
trouble that the Major asked if all went well? to which he
hurriedly answered, ‘‘ Please God.” ‘The Arabs, however,
who at all events expected plunder, proceeded with alacrity.
The expedition set out next morning, and, after passing
through a beautiful plain, began to penetrate the mighty
chain of mountains which form the southern border of the
kingdom. Alpine heights, rising around them in rugged
magnificence and gigantic grandeur, presented scenery
which our traveller had never seen surpassed. ‘The passes
of Hairey and of Horza, amid a superb amphitheatre of
hills, closely shut in by overhanging cliffs, more than two
thousand feet high, were truly striking. Here, for the first
time in Africa, did nature appear to the English to revel in
the production of vegetable life. The trees were covered
with luxuriant and bright green foliage ; and their trunks
were hidden by a crowd of parasitical plants, whose aro-
matic blossoms perfumed the air. There was also an
abundance of animal life of a less agreeable description :
three scorpions were killed in the tent; and a fierce but
beautiful panther, more than eight feet long, just as he had
gorged himself by sucking the blood of a newly-killed negro,
was attacked and speared. The sultan and Barca Gana
‘
.
152 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
were attended by a considerable body of Bornou and Man-
dara cavalry, whose brilliant armour, martial aspect, and
skilful horsemanship gave confidence to the European
officer, who had not yet seen them put to the proof.
It was the third day when the expedition came in view of
the Fellatatown of Dirkulla. The Arabs, supported by Barca
Gana and about a hundred spearmen, marched instantly to
the attack, and carried first that place, and then a smaller
town beyond it, killing all who had not time to escape.
The enemy, however, then intrenched themselves in a
third and stronger position, called Musfeia, enclosed: by
high hills, and fortified in front by numerous swamps and
palisades. This was likewise attacked, and all its defences
forced. ‘The guns of the Arabs spread terror, while Barca
Gana threw eight spears with his own hand, every one of
which took effect. It was thought, that had the two-bodies
of cavalry made even a show of advancing, the victory would -
have been at once decided; but Major Denham was much
surprised to see those puissant warriors keeping carefully
under cover behind a hill on the opposite side of the stream,
where not an arrow could reach them. The Fellatas, see-.
ing that their antagonists were only a handful, rallied on
the tops of the hills, were joined by new troops, and turned
round. ‘Their women behind, cheering them on, .conti-
nually supplied fresh arrows, and rolled down fragments of
rock on the assailants. These arrows were fatal; they
were tipped with poison, and wherever they pierced the body -
in a few hours became black, blood gushed from every
orifice, and the victim expiredin agony. ‘The condition of .
the Arabs soon became alarming; scarcely a man was left
unhurt, and their horses were dying under them. Boo
Khalloom and his charger were both wounded with poi-
soned arrows. As soon as the Fellatas saw the Arabs
waver, they dashed in with their horse ; at sight of which
all the heroic squadrons of Bornou and Mandara put spurs
to their steeds, the sultan at their head, and the whole be-
came one mass of confused and tumultuous flight. Major
Denham saw too late the peril into which he had wantonly
plunged. His horse, pierced to the shoulder-bone, could
scarcely support his weight ; but the cries of the pursui
Fellatas still urged him forward. At last the animal fell
twice, and the second time threw him against a tree, then,
r
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 153
frightened by the noise, behind, started up and ran off.
The Fellatas were instantly up, when four of his compa-
nions were stabbed beside him, uttering the most frightful
cries. He himself was fully prepared for the same fate ;
but happily his clothes formed a valuable booty, through
which the savages were loath to run their spears. After in-
flicting some slight wounds, therefore, they stripped him to
the skin, and forthwith began to quarrel about the plunder.
While they were thus busied, he contrived to slip away,
and though hotly pursued, and nearly overtaken, succeeded
in reaching a mountain-stream gliding at the bottom of a
deep and precipitous ravine. Here he had snatched the
young branches issuing from the stump of a large over-
hanging tree, in order to let himself down into the water,
_ when, beneath his hand, a large /iffa, the most dangerous
serpent jn this country, rose from its coil, as in the very
act of darting upon him. Struck with horror, Major Den-
ham lost all recollection, and fell headlong into the water ; -
but the shock revived him, and, with three strokes of his arm,
he reached the opposite bank, and felt himself for the mo-
ment in safety. Running forward, he was delighted to see
his friends Barca Gana and Boo Khalloom; but amid the
cheers with which they were endeavouring to rally their
troops, and the cries of those who were falling under the
Fellata spears, he could not for some time make himself
heard. Then Maramy, a negro appointed by the sheik to
attend on him, rode up and took him on his own horse.
Boo Khalloom ordered a burnouse to be thrown over him,—
very seasonably, for the burning sun had begun to blister
his naked body. Suddenly, however, Maramy called out,
** See, see! Boo Khalloom is dead!” and that spirited
chief, overpowered by the wound of a poisoned arrow,
dropped from his horse, and spoke no more. The others
now thought only of pressing their flight, and soon reached
a stream, where they refreshed themselves by copious
draughts, and a halt was made to collect the stragglers.
Major Denham here fell into a swoon; during which, as
he afterward learned, Maramy complained that the jaded
horse could scarcely carry the stranger forward, when Barca
Gana said,—“ By the head of the prophet ! believers enough
have breathed their last to-day ; why should we concern
urselves about a Christian’s death? Malem Chadily,
4 ~
154 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
however, so bitter as a theological opponent, showed now
the influence of a milder spirit, and said,—** No, God has
preserved him; let us not abandon him;” and Maramy
declared,—“‘ His heart told him what to do.” They there-
fore moved on slowly till about midnight, when they passed
the Mandara frontier in a state of severe suffering; but the
Major met with much kindness from a dethroned prince,
Mai Meegamy, who, seeing his wounds festering under the
rough woollen cloak which formed his only covering, took
off his own trousers and gave them to him.
The Arabs had lost forty-five of their number, besides
their chief; the rest were in a miserable plight, most of
them wounded, some mortally, and all having lost their
camels and the rest of their property. Renouncing their
aay they were obliged to supplicate from Barca Gana a
andful of corn to keep them from starving. The sultan
of Mandara, in whose cause they had suffered, treated them
with the utmost contumely, which perhaps they might de-
serve, but certainly not from him. Deep sorrow was after-
ward felt in Fezzan when they arrived in this deplorable
condition and reported the fall of their chief, who was there
almost idolized. A national song was composed on the
occasion, which the following extract will show to be
marked by great depth of feeling, and not altogether devoid
of poetical beauty :— :
“Oh! trust not to the gun and the sword! The spear
of the unbeliever prevails !
** Boo Khalloom, the good and the brave, has fallen! Who
shall now be safe? Even as the moon among the little
stars, so was Boo Khalloom among men! Where shall
Fezzan now look for her protector? Men hang their heads
in sorrow, while women wring their hands, rending the air
with their cries! Asa shepherd is to his flock, so was Boo -
Khalloom to Fezzan! ‘
“Give him songs! Give him music! What words can
equal his praise? His heart was as large as the desert!
His coffers were like the rich overflowings from the udder
# the she-camel, comforting and nourishing those around
im! |
‘“‘ Even as the flowers without rain perish in the fields, so
will the Fezzaners droop; for Boo Khalloom 1eturns no
more ! a
q :
a
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. | 155
“His body lies in the land of the heathen! The poi
sonied arrow of the unbeliever prevails !
_“QOh!-trust not to the gun and the sword! ‘The spear
of the heathen conquers! Boo Khalloom, the good and
the brave, has fallen! Who shall now be safe?” —
The sheik of Bornou was considerably mortified by the
result of this expedition, and the miserable figure made by
his troops, though he sought to throw the chief blame on
the Mandara part of the armament. He now invited the
Major to accompany an expedition against the Mungas, a
rebel tribe on his outer border, on which occasion he was
to employ his native band of Kanemboo spearmen, who, he
trusted, would redeem the military reputation of the mo-
narchy. Major Denham was always ready to go wherever
he had a chance of seeing the manners and scenery of Af-
rica. The sheik took. the field, attended by his armour-
bearer, his drummer fantastically dressed in a straw hat
with ostrich feathers, and followed by three wives, whose
heads and persons were wrapped up in brown‘silk robes,
and each led by a eunuch. He was preceded by five green
and red flags, on each of which were extracts from the
Koran, written in letters of gold. Etiquette even required
that the sultan should follow with his unwieldy pomp,
having a harem, and attendance much more numerous;
while frumfrums, or wooden trumpets, were continually
sounded before him. This monarch is too dignified to fight
in person; but his guards, the swollen and overloaded
figures formerly described, enveloped in multiplied folds,
and groaning beneath the weight of ponderous amulets,
produced themselves as warriors, though manifestly unfit to
face any rea] danger.
The route lay along the banks of the river Yeou, called
also Gambarou, through a country naturally fertile and
delightful, but presenting a dismal picture of the deso-
lation occasioned by African warfare. The expedition
passed through upwards of thirty towns, completely de-
stroyed by the Fellatas in their last inroad, and of which
all the inhabitants were either killed or carried into slavery.
These fine plains were now overgrown with forests and
thickets, in which grew tamarind and other trees, producing
delicate fruits; while large bands of monkeys, called by
Arabs “ enchanted men,” filled the woods with their cries,
.
156 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
Here, too, was found Old Birnie, the ancient but now deso-
late capital, evidently much larger than any of the present
cities, covering five or six miles with itsruins. They passed
also Gambarou, formerly the favourite residence of the
sultans, where the remains of a palace and of two mosques
gave an idea of civilization superior to any thing that had
yet been seen in Interior Africa. There were left in this
country only small detached villages, the inhabitants of
which remained fixed to them by local attachment, in spite
of constant predatory inroads by the Tuaricks, who carried
off their friends, their children, and cattle. They have
recourse to one mode of defence, which consists in digging
a number of biaquas, or large pits: these they cover with a
false surface of sods and grass, into which the Tuarick,
with his horse, plunges before he is aware, and is received
at the bottom upon sharp-pointed stakes, which often kill
the one and the other on the spot. Unluckily, harmless tra-
vellers are equally liable to fall into these living graves.
Major Denham was petrified with horror to find how near
he had approached to several of them; indeed, one of his
servants fell in, and was saved only by an almost miracu- ~
lous spring. It seems wonderful that the sheik should not
have endeavoured to restore some kind of security to this
portion of his subjects, and to repeople those fine but de-
serted regions. ; :
The troops, which had been seen hastening in parties to
the scene of action, were mustered at Kabshary, a town
which the Mungas had nearly destroyed. The sheik made
a review of his favourite forces, the Kanemboo spearmen,
9000 strong. They were really a very savage and military-
looking host, perfectly naked, except a girdle of goatskin,
with the hair hanging down, and a piece of cloth wrapped
round the head. They carried large wooden shields, shaped —
like a Gothic window, with which they warded off the ar-
rows of the enemy, while they pressed forward to attack
with their spears. Unlike almost all other barbarous armies,
they kept a regular night-watch, passing the cry every half-
hour along the line, and at any alarm raising a united yell,
which was truly frightful. At the review they passed in
tribes before the sheik, to whom they showed the most en-
thusiastic attachment, kneeling on the ground and kissing
his feet. The Mungas, again, were described as terrible
ONT
ey
Y
> SS * \\ i (Wy Gj
BN ke
Fa
—
Bornou Horseman, Kanemboo Spearman, and Mungo Bowman.—[p. 197.]
i. Vek “Ah aint opal Ses ‘dae ona
Le: MESS eos eo ag Sages
Mf bt EA Reet a, hee ih
et ips dae, a oli, yn tc
en yt te ay ve Sei ain wet
ey Ws is ‘e os eh ba © abe sa i
Wh 2 by iat gt + actin or Aa, peat) Bader
Mis bth Sain ia el hh
. ts wets
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 157
antagonists, hardened by conflict with the Tuaricks, fighting °
on foot with poisoned arrows longer and more deadly than
those of the Fellatas.* The sultan, however, contemplated
other means of securing success, placing his main reliance
on his powers as a Mohammedan doctor and writer. Three
successive nights were spent in inscribing upon little scraps
of paper figures or words, destined to exercise a magical
influence upon the rebel host; and their effect was height-
ened by the display of sky-rockets, supplied by Major Den-
ham. ‘Tidings of his being thus employed were conveyed
to the camp, when the Mungas, stout and fierce warriors
who never shrunk from an enemy, yielded to the power of
superstition, and felt all their strength withered. It seemed
to them that their arrows were blunted, their quivers broken,
their hearts struck with sickness and fear; im short, that to
oppose a sheik of the Koran who could accomplish such
wonders was alike vain and impious. They came in by
hundreds, bowing themselves to the ground, and casting
sand on their heads in token of the most abject submission.
At length, Malem Fanamy himself, the leader of the rebel-
lion, saw that resistance was hopeless. After vain over-
tures of conditional submission, he appeared in person,
mounted on a white horse, with a thousand followers. He
was himself in rags, and, having fallen prostrate on the
ground, was about to pour sand on his head, when the sul-
tan, instead of permitting this humiliation, caused eight
robes of fine cotton cloth, one after another, to be thrown
over him, and his head to be wrapped in Egyptian turbans
till it was swelled to six times its natural size, and no longer
resembled any thing human. By such signal honours the
sheik gained the hearts of those whom his pen had subdued ;
and this wise policy enabled him, not only to overcome the
resistance of this formidable tribe, but to convert them into
supporters and bulwarks of his power.
Major Denham, who always sought with laudable zeal to
penetrate into every corner of Africa, now found his way
in another direction. He had heard much of the Shary, a
great river flowing into the lake Tchad, and on whose banks
the kingdom of Loggun wassituated. After several delays,
* The group in the accompanying plate shows the three noted mili-
_ tary characters,—the Bornou horseman, the Kanemboo spearman, and
the Munga bowman. 6 “5 f
wv |
158 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON:
“he set out on the 23d January, 1824, in company with Mr,
Toole, a spirited young volunteer, who, jae way
of Tripoli and Mourzouk, had thence crossed the Desert to
join him. The travellers passed through Angornou and
Angala, and arrived at Showy, where they saw the river,
which really proved to be a magnificent stream, fully half.a
mile broad, and flowing at the rate of two or three miles an
hour. They descended it through a succession of noble
reaches, bordered with fine woods, and a profusion of vari-
ously-tinted and aromatic plants. At length it opened into
the wide expanse of the Tchad; after viewing which, they
again ascended and reached the capital of Loggun, beneath
whose. high walls the river was seen flowing im majestic
beauty. Major Denham entered, and found a handsome
city, witha street as wide as Pall-~Mall, and bordered by
large dwellings, having spacious areas in front. He was
led through several dark rooms into a wide and crowded
court, at one end of which a lattice opened, and showed a
- pile of silk robes stretched on a carpet, amid which two
eyes became gradually visible: this was the sultan. On
his appearance there arose a tumult of hors and frum-
frums ; while all the attendants threw themselves prostrate,
casting sand on their heads. In a voice which the court-
fashion of Loggun required to be scarcely audible, the mo-
narch inquired Major Denham’s object in coming to this
country, observing that if it was to purchase handsome female
slaves, he need go no farther, since he himself had hun-
dreds who could be afforded at a very easy rate. This
overture was rejected on other grounds than the price; yet,
notwithstanding so decided a proof of barbarism, the Log-
gunese were found a people more advanced in the arts of
peace than any hitherto seen in Africa. By a studied neu-
trality, they had avoided involving themselves in the dread-
ful wars which had desolated the neighbouring countries.
Manufacturing industry was honoured, and the cloths
woven here were superior to those of Bornou, being finely
died with indigo and beautifully glazed. There was even
a current coin made of iron, somewhat in the form of a
horse-shoe ; and rude as this was, none of their neighbours
possessed any thing similar. The ladies were handsome,
intelligent, and of a lively air and carriage; but, besides
pushing their frankness to excess, their general demeanour
.
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON 159
was by no means scrupulous. They used, in particular,
the utmost diligence in stealing from Major Denham’s per-
son every thing that could be reached, even searching the -
. pockets of his trousers; and, when detected, only laughing,
and calling to each other how sharp he had shown himself.
But the darkest feature of savage life was disclosed, when
the sultan and his son each sent to solicit poison “that
would not lie,” to be used against the other. The latter
even accompanied the request with a bribe of three lovely
black damsels, and laughed at the horror which was ex-
pressed at the proposal.
The Loggunese live in arich country, abounding in grain
and cattle, and diversified with forests of lofty acacias and
many beautiful shrubs. Its chief scourge consists in the
millions of tormenting insects which fill the atmosphere,
making it scarcely possible to go into the open air at mid-
day without being thrown into a fever; indeed, children
have been known to be killed by their stings. ‘The natives
have a mode of building one house within another to pro-
tect themselves against this scourge; while some kindle a
large fire of wet straw and sit in the smoke: but this re-
medy, if it be possible, seems worge than the evil which it is
meant to obviate. )
Major Denham was much distressed on this journey by
the death of his companion Mr. Toole; and he could no
longer delay his return when he learned that the Beghar-
mis, with a large army, were crossing the Shary to attack
Bornou. Soon after his arrival at Kouka the sheik led out
his troops, which he mustered on the plain of Angala, and
was there furiously attacked by 5000 Begharmis, led by 200
chiefs. ‘The Begharmi cavalry are individually strong and
fierce, and both riders and horses still more thoroughly cased
in mail than those of Bornou ; but their courage, when
brought to the proof, is nearly on a level. The sheik en-
countered them with his Kanemboo spearmen and a small
band of musketeers, when, after a sharp conflict, the whole
of this mighty host was thrown into the most disorderly
flight; even the Bornou cavalry joined in the pursuit,
Seven sons of the sultan and almost all the chiefs fell;
two hundred of their favourite wives were taken, many of
whom were of exquisite beauty,
Mr. Tyrwhit, a gentleman whom his majesty’s govern-
«<
be
7
160 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
ment had sent out to strengthen the party, arrived on the
20th May, and on the 22d, delivered to the sheik a number
of presents, which were received with the highest satisfac-
tion. In company with this gentleman, Major Denham,
eager to explore Africa still further, took advantage of an-
other expedition undertaken against the tribe of Shouaa
Arabs, distinguished by the name of La Sala,—a race of
amphibious shepherds who inhabit certain islands that ex-
tend along the south-eastern shores of the Tchad. ‘These
spots afford rich pasture; while the water is so shallow,
that, by knowing the channels, the natives can ride without
difficulty from one island to the other. Barca Gana led a
thousand men on this expedition, and was joined by 400 of
a Shouaa tribe, called Dugganahs, enemies to the La Salas.
These allies presented human nature under a more pleasing
aspect than it had yet been seen in any part of Central
Africa. They despise the negro nations, and all who live in
houses, and still more in cities; while they themselves re-
side in tents made of skin, collected into circular camps,
which they move periodically from place to place. They
live in simple plenty on the produce of their flocks and
herds, celebrate their joys and sorrows in extemporary
poetry, and seem to be united by the strongest ties of domes-
tic affection. Tahr, their chief, having closely examined
our traveller as to the motives of his journey, said, ‘ And
have you been three years from your home? Are not your
eyes dimmed with straining to the north, where all your
thoughts must ever be? If my eyes do not see the wife
and children of my heart for ten days, they are flowing with
tears when they should be closed in sleep.” On taking
leave, Tahr’s parting wish was, ‘‘ May you die at your own
_tents, and in the arms of your wife and family.” This chief,
it is said, might have sat for the picture of a patriarch: his ~
fine, serious, expressive countenance, large features, and long
bushy beard afforded a favourable specimen of the general
aspect of his tribe. ry
The united forces now marched to the shores of the
lake, and began to reconnoitre the islands on which the
Shouaas with their cattle and cavalry were stationed ; but
the experienced eye of Barca Gana soon discerned that the
channel, though shallow, was full of holes, and had a
muddy, deceitful appearance. He proposed, therefore, to -
‘
‘
Ay
v ¢
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON, 161
delay the attack till a resolute band of Kanemboo spearmen
should arrive and lead the way. The lowing, however, of
the numerous herds, and the bleating of the flocks on the
green islands which lay before them, excited in the troops
a degree of hunger as well as of military ardour that was
quite irrepressible. They called out, ““ What! be so near
them and not eat them’. No, no, let us on; this night these
flocks and women shall be ours!” Barca Gana suffered
himself to be hurried away, and plunged in among the fore-
most. Soon, however, the troops began to sink into the
holes or stick in the mud; their guns and powder were
wetted, and became useless; while the enemy, who knew
every step, and could ride through the water as quickly as
on land, at once charged the invaders in front, and sent
round a detachment to take them inthe rear. The assault
was accordingly soon changed into a disgraceful flight, in
which those who had been the most-loud in urging to this
rash onset set the example. Barca Gana, who had boasted
himself invulnerable, was deeply wounded through his coat-
of-mail and four cotton tobes, and was with difficulty rescued
by his chiefs out of the hands of five La Sala horsemen
who had vowed his death. The army returned to their
quarters in disappointment and dismay, and with a severe
loss. During the whole night the Dugganah women were
heard bewailing their husbands who had fallen, in dirges
composed for the occasion, and with plaintive notes, which
could not be listened to without the deepest sympathy.
Major Denham was deterred by this disaster from making
any farther attempt to penetrate to the eastern shores of
the Tchad.
The Biddoomahs are another tribe who inhabit extensive
and ragged islands in the interior of the lake, amid its deep
waters, which they navigate with nearly a thousand large
boats. They neither cultivate the .ground nor rear flocks
or herds, while their manners appeared to our traveller the
rudest and most savage even of Africans, those of the Mus-
gow always excepted. They are said to have adopted as a
religious creed, that God, having withheld from them corn
and cattle, which the nations around enjoy, has given in
Sheir stead strength and courage, to be employed in taking
these good things from all in whose possession they may
be found. To this belief ey act up in the most devout
_ |
:
162 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
manner, spreading terror and desolation over all the shores
of this inland sea; no part of which, even in the imme-
diate vicinity of the great capitals, is ‘for a moment secure
from their ravages. The most powerful and warlike of the
Bornou sovereigns, finding among their subjects neither
the requisite skill nor experience in navigation, do not
attempt to cope with the Biddoomahs on their watery do-
mains; and thus gave up the lake to their undisputed
sway.
While Major Denham was thus traversing, in every di-
rection, Bornou andthe surrounding countries, Mr. Clap-
perton and Dr. Oudney were proceeding through Houssa,
by a route less varied and hazardous indeed, but disclosing
forms both of nature and of society fully as interesting.
They departed from Kouka on the 14th December, 1823,
and, after passing the site of Old Birnie, they found the
banks of the Yeou fertile, and diversified with towns and
villages. On entering Katagum, the most easterly Fellata
province, they observed a superior style of culture ; two
crops of wheat being raised in one season by irrigation, and
the grain stored in covered sheds elevated from the ground
on posts. ‘The country to the south was covered with ex-
tensive swamps and mountains, tenanted by rude and Pagan
races, who furnish to the faithful an inexhaustible supply
of slaves. ‘The practice of travelling with a caravan was
found very advantageous, from the mutual help afforded, as
well as from the good reports spread by the merchants re-
specting their European companions. In Bornou these last
had been viewed with almost unmingled horror; and, for
having eaten their bread under the extremest necessity, a
man had his testimony rejected in a court of justice. Some
young Bornouese ladies, who accosted Major Denham,
having ventured to say a word in his favour, an attendant
matron exclaimed,—* Be silent; he is an uncircumcised
Caffre,—neither washes nor prays, eats pork, and will go
to hell ;” upon which the others screamed out and ran off.
But in Houssa this horror was not so extreme, and was min-
gled with the belief that they possessed surprising and su-
permatural powers. Not only did the sick come in crowds
expecting the cure of every disease, but the ladies solicited
amulets to restore their beauty, to preserve the affections
of their lovers, and even to destroy a hated rival, The son
\ !
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 163
of the governor of Kano, having called upon Mr. Clapperton,
stated it as the conviction of the whole city and his own,
that the English had the power of converting men into asses, _
_ goats, and monkeys, and likewise that by reading in his
‘book he could at any time commute a handful of earth into
gold. The traveller, having argued with him upon the dif-
ficulty he often found in procuring both asses and gold, in-
duced him, with trembling hands, to taste a cup of tea;
when he became more composed, and made a sort of recanta-
tion of his errors.
As the caravan proceeded they met many other travel-
fers, and found sitting along the road numerous females,
selling potatoes, beans, bits of roasted meat, and water
with an infusion of gussub grains ; and when they stopped
at any place for the night, the people crowded in such
numbers as to form a little fair. Mr. Clapperton attracted
the notice of many of the Fellata ladies, who, after examin- —
ing him closely, declared, that had he only been less white,
his external appearance might have merited approbation.
The travellers passed through Sansan, a great market-
place divided into three distinct towns, and Katagum, the
strongly-fortified capital of the province, containing about
$000 inhabitants. Thence they proceeded to Murmur,
where the severe illness under which Dr. Oudney had long
laboured came to acrisis. Though now in the last stage
of consumption, he insisted on continuing his journey, and
with the aid of his servant had been supported to his camel,
when Mr. Clapperton, seeing the ghastliness of death on
his countenance, insisted on replacing him in his tent;
‘where soon after, without a groan, he breathed his last.
His companion caused him to be buried with the honours
of the country. The body was washed, wrapped in tur-
lban-shawls, and a wall of clay built round the grave to pro-
tiect it from wild beasts ; two sheep also were killed and dis-
tributed among the poor. Ait
_ Proceeding onwards, the traveller came to Katungwa, the
jirst town of Houssa Proper, in a country well enclosed
‘and under high cultivation. To the south was an exten-
‘sive range of rocky hills, amid which was the town of
‘Zangeia, with its buildings picturesquely scattered over —
ymasses of rock, He passed also Girkwa, near a river of
the same name, which appears to come from these hills,
‘and to fall into the Yeou. .
164 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
Two days after, he entered Kano, the Ghana of Edrisi,
and which is now, as it was six hundred years ago, the
chief commercial city of Houssa and of all Central Africa.
Yet it disappointed our traveller on his first entry, and for
a quarter of a mile scarcely appeared acity at all. Even in
its more crowded quarters the houses rose generally in
clusters, only separated by large stagnant pools. The in-
habited part, on the whole, did not appear to comprise more
than a fourth of the space enclosed by the walls, while the
rest consisted of fields, gardens, and swamps; however, as
the whole circuit is fifteen miles, there is space for a popu-
lation moderately, estimated to be between 30,000 and.
40,000. Its market, the greatest scene of commercial
transactions in Africa, is held on a neck of land between
two swamps, by which, during the rains, it is entirely over-
flowed ; but in the dry season it is covered with sheds, or
stalls of bamboo, arranged into regular streets. Different
quarters are allotted for the several kinds of goods; some
for cattle, others for vegetables; while fruits of various de-
scriptions, so much neglected in Bornou, are here displayed
in profusion. The fine cotton fabrics of the country are
sold either in webs, or in what are called tobes and turka-
dees, with rich silken stripes or borders ready to be added.
Among the favourite articles are goora or kolla nuts, which
are called African coffee, being supposed to give a peculiar
relish to the water drunk after them; and crude antimony,
with whose black tint every eyebrow in Houssa must be
died. The Arabs also dispose here of sundry commodities
that have become obsolete in the north; the cast-off dresses
of the Mamelukes and other great men, and old sword-
blades from Malta. But the busiest scene is the slave-
market, composed of two long ranges of sheds, one for
males and another for females.. These poor creatures are
seated in rows, decked out for exhibition ; the buyer scru-
tinizes them as nicely as a purchaser with us does a horse, ~
inspecting the tongue,-teeth, eyes, and limbs, making them
cough and perform various movements, to ascertain if there
be any thing unsound ; and in case of a blemish appearing,
or even without assigning a reason, he may return them
within three days. As soon as the slaves are sold, the ex-
poser gets back their finery, to be employed in ornamenting
others. Most of the captives purchased at Kano are con-
- veyed across the Desert duriné which their masters endeas
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 165
vour to keep up their spirits by an assurance that, on pass-
ing its boundary, they will be set free and dressed in red,
which they account the gayest of colours. Supplies, how-—
ever, often fail in this dreary journey,—a want felt first by
' the slaves, many of whom perish with hunger and fatigue.
Mr. Clapperton heard the doleful tale of a mother who had
seen her child dashed to the ground, while she herself was
compelled by the lash to drag on an exhausted frame. Yet
when at all tolerably treated, they are very gay,—an obser-
vation generally made in regard to slaves ; but this gayety,
arising only from the absence of thought, probably conceals
much secret wretchedness.
The regulations of the market of Kano seem to be good,
and strictly observed. ‘There is a sheik who regulates the
police, and is said even to fix the prices,—which is going
too far. The dylalas, or brokers, are men of somewhat
high character ; packages of goods are often sold unopened,
and bearing merely their mark. If the purchaser afterward
finds any defect, he returns it to the agent, who must grant
compensation. ‘The medium of exchange is not cloth as in
Bornou, nor iron as in Loggun, but cowries, or little shells
brought from the coast, twenty of which are worth a half-
penny, and 480 make a shilling; so that, in paying a
pound sterling, one has to count over 9600 cowries. Our
countryman admires this currency, as excluding all at-
tempts at forgery; but really we should think its use very
tedious and inconvenient. Amid so many strangers there
is ample room for the trade of the restaurateur, which is oc-
cupied by a female seated on the ground, with a mat on her
knees, on which are spread vegetables, gussub-water, and
bits of roasted meat about the size of a penny; these she
retails to her customers squatted around her. The killing
of a bullock forms a sort of festival at Kano; its horns are
died red with henna, drums are beat, and a crowd collected,
who, if they approve of the appearance and condition of
‘the animal, readily become purchasers.
Boxing in Houssa, like wrestling in Bornou, forms a fa-
wvourite exercise, and the grand national spectacle. “Mr.
-©lapperton, having heard much of the fancy of Kano, inti-
mated his willingness to pay for a performance, which was
forthwith arranged. The whole body of butchers attended,
and acted as masters of the ceremonies; while, as soon as
;
166 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
the tidings spread, girls left their pitchers at the wells, the
market people threw down their baskets, and an immense
crowd was assembled. ‘The ring being formed, and drums
beat, the performers first came forward ‘singly, plying their
muscles like a musician tuning his instrument, and each
calling out to the bystanders,—“ I am a hyena; lam a lion;
. Ican kill all that oppose me.” After about twenty had~
shown off in this manner, they came forward in pairs, wear-
ing only a leathern girdle, and with their hands muffled up
in numerous folds of country cloth. It was first ascertained
that they were not mutual friends ; after which, they closed
with the utmost fury, aiming their blows at the most mortal
parts, as the pit of the stomach, beneath the ribs, or under
the ear: they even endeavoured to scoop out the eyes; so
that, in spite of every precaution, the match often termi-
nated in the death of one of the combatants. Whenever
Mr. Clapperton saw the affair verging to such an issue, he
gave orders to stop; and, after seeing six pairs exhibit,
paid the hire and broke up the meeting. |
From Kano he set out under the guidance of Mohammed
Jollie, leader of an extensive caravan intended for Sackatoo,
capital of the sultan of the Fellatas. The country was
perhaps the finest in Africa, being under high cultivation,
diversified with groves of noble trees, and traversed in a pic-
turesque manner by ridges of granite. The manners of
the people, too, were pleasing and pastoral. At many clear
springs gushing from the rocks young women were drawing
water. As an excuse for engaying in talk, our traveller
asked several times for the means of quenching his thirst.
** Bending gracefully on one knee, and displaying at the
same time teeth of pearly whiteness, and eyes of the blackest
lustre, they presented a gourd, and appeared highly de-~
ligited when I thanked them for their civility, remarking to_
one another, ‘Did you hear the white man thank me?”
But the scene was changed when the traveller reached the
borders of the provinces of Goober and Zamfra, which
were in a state of rebellion against Sackatoo. ‘The utmost
alarm at that moment prevailed; men and women, with:
their bullocks, asses, and camels, all struggled to be fore-
most, every one crying out, ‘“‘ Wo to the wretch that falls
behind! he will be sure to meet an unhappy end at the
hands of the Gooberites.”” There was danger even of being
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON, 167
thrown down and trampled to death by the bullocks, which
were furiously rushing backward and forward; however,
through the unremitting care of the escort, Clapperton
made his way safely, though not without much fatigue and
annoyance, along this perilous frontier.
On the 16th March, 1824, after passing through the hilly
district of Kamoon, the valleys began to open, and crowds
of people were seen thronging to market with wood, onions,
indigo, and other commodities. This indicated the ap-
ries to Sackatoo, which they soon saw from the top of a
ill, and entered about noon. A multitude flocked to see
the white stranger, and received him with cheers of wel-
come. The sultan was not yet returned from a ghrazzie or
slave-hunt ; but the gadado, or minister, performed hand-
somely the honours of the place. Next day the chief
arrived, and instantly sent for Clapperton. The palace, as
usual in Africa, consisted of a sort of enclosed town, with
an open quadrangle in front. The stranger, on entering
the gate, was conducted through three huts serving as
guard-houses, after which he found Sultan Bello seated on
a small carpet in a sort of painted and ornamented cottage
- Bellohadanoble and commanding figure, with a high forehead
and large black eyes. He gave the traveller a hearty wel-
come, and, after inquiring the particulars of his journey,
proceeded to serious affairs. He produced books belonging |
to Major Denham, which had been taken in the dgastrous
battle of Dirkullah; and, though he expressed a feeling of
dissatisfaction at the Major’s presénce on that occasion,
readily accepted an apology, and restored the volumes. He
only asked to have the subject of each explained, and to
hear the sound of the language, which he declared,to be
beautiful. He then began to press his visiter with theolo-
gical questions, and showed himself not wholly unacquainted
with the controversies which have agitated the Christian
world ; indeed he soon went beyond the depth of his visiter,
who was obliged to own that he was not versant in the
‘ abstruser mysteries of divinity.
The sultan now opened a frequent and familiar commu-
nication with the English envoy, in which he showed him-
self possessed of a good deal of information. The astrono-
mical instruments, } which, as from implements of magic,
_— ssmigd e Ba
168 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
many of his attendants started with horror, were examined
by the monarch with an intelligent eye.” On being shown
the planisphere, he proved his knowledge of the planets,
and even of many of the constellations, by repeating their Ara-
bic names. The telescope, which presented objects inverted
—the compass, by which he could always turn to the east
in praying—and the sextant, which he called ‘ the looking-
glass of the sun,” excited peculiar interest. Being desirous
to see an observation performed with the latter imstru-
ment, Clapperton, who had lost the key of the artificial
horizon, asked a dagger to break it opeh; upon which the -
sultan started, and half-drew his sword, trembling like an
aspen leaf. The other very prudently took no notice of this
excitement, but quietly opened his box, when the exhibi-
tion soon dispelled all unfavourable impressions. The sul-
tan, however, inquired with evident jealousy into some
points of English history that had come to his knowledge ;
as, the conquest of India, which the traveller endeavoured
to represent as a mere arrangement to protect the natives,
and particularly the Moslem population. The attack on
Algiers, beg also alluded to, was justly declared to have
been made solely on account of her atrocious piracies.
_ Sackatoo appeared to Mr. Clapperton the most populous
city he had seen in the interior of Africa. The houses stand
more closely together than in most other towns of Houssa,
and are daid out in regularly well-built streets. It is sur-
rounded by a wall between twenty and thirty feet high,
with twelve gates, which are punctuallv shut at sunset.
The dwellings of the principal inhabitants consist of clusters
of cottages and flat-roofed houses, in the Moorish style, en-
closed by high walls. There are two mosques, one of which,
then in progress of building, was 800 feet long, adorned
with numerous pillars of wood plastered with clay, and
highly ornamented.
Mr. Clapperton, desirous to accomplish what had all
along been his main object, solicited a guide to the western
countries and the Gulf of Benin. By this route he might
investigate the course of the Niger and the fate of Park; he
might also pave the way for acommercial intercourse, which
would be of some benefit to Britain, and of great
to Africa. The sultan at first gave assurances of permis-
sion and aid in travelling through every part of his domi-
bg
DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 169
‘nions; but when our countryman specified Nyffe on the
banks of the Niger, Youri where the papers of Park were
reported to be kept, Rakah and Fundah, where that river
was said to fall into the sea, the courtiers began to demur.
Professing tender solicitude for his safety, they represerted
that the season was becoming unfavourable, and that rebel-
lion and civil war were raging to such a pitch in these
countries as to make even the mighty protection of Sultan
Bello insufficient for his security. Clapperton strongly sus-
pected that this unfavourable change was produced by the |
machinations of the Arabs, and particularly of Mohammed
Gomsoo, their chief, notwithstanding the warm professions
- of friendship made that personage. They apprehended,
probably, that were a communication opened with the
western coast, Interior Africa might be supplied with Eu-
ropean goods by that shorter route, instead of being brought
by themselves across the Desert. Perhaps these suspicions
were groundless ; for the state of the country was afterward
found to be, if possible, worse than had been described, and
the ravages of the Fellatas so terrible, that any one coming
from among them was likely to experience a very disagree-
able reception. Indeed, it may be suspected that the sultan
must have been a good deal embarrassed by the simplicity
with which his guest listened to his pompous boasting as to
the extent of his empire, and by the earnestness with which
he entreated him to name one of his seaports where the
English might land, when it is certain that he had not a town
which was not some hundred miles distant from the coast.
To prevent the disclosure of this fact, which must have
taken place had our, traveller proceeded in that direction,
might be an additional motive for refusing his sanction.
In short, it was finally announced to Clapperton, that no
escort could be found to accompany him on so rash an en-
terprise, and that he could return to England only by retrac-
ing his steps.
Here the traveller obtained an account of Mr. Park’s
death, very closely corresponding with the statement given
by Amadi Fatouma. The Niger, it appears, called here the.
Quorra, after passing Timbuctoo, turns to the south, and:
- continues to flow in that direction till it crosses. the parallel.
of Sackatoo, at only a few days’ journey to the westward ;
but whether it reaches. the acts or, making an immense, cir-
*
.
170 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
cuit, becomes the Shary, and pours itself into the immense
basin of the Tchad, are points on which his informants va-
ried greatly.
Returning by a different route, Mr. Clapperton visited
Zirmie, the capital of Zamfra, a kind of outlawed city, the
inhabitants of which are esteemed the greatest rogues in
Houssa, and where all runaway slaves find protection. He
passed also through Kashna or Cassina, the metropolis of a
kingdom which, till the late rise of the Fellata power, had
ruled over all Africa from Bornou to the Niger. In its
present subject and fallen state, the inhabited part does not
cover a tenth of the wide circuit enclosed by its walls; yet
a considerable trade is still carried on with the Tuaricks, or
with caravans coming across the Desert by the route of
Ghadamis and Tuat. Here our traveller met with much -
kindness from Hadgi Ahmet, a powerful and wealthy Arab
chief, who even took him into his seraglio, and desired him,
out of fifty black damsels, to make his choice,—a complai-
sance, nothing resembling which had ever before been shown
by a Mussulman. But our countryman, being indisposed,
only picked out an ancient maiden to serve as a nurse.
Mr. Clapperton rejoined Major Denham at Kouka,
whence they set out, and recrossed the Desert together in
the latter part of the year 1824. They reached Tripoli in
January, 1825, and soon after embarked for Leghorn; but
being detained by contrary winds and quarantine regula
tions, did not reach London till the month of June.
CHAPTER XIII.
Clapperton’s Second Journey-—-Laing—Caillihs
Ir has appeared, that in spite of some occasional symp-
toms of jealousy, and even of alarm, the sultan of the Fel-
latas had manifested a very considerable inclination to cul-
tivate intercourse with the English. He was even under-
stood to have promised that messengers should be kept in
waiting at Rakah and Fundah, or at some port on the coast, .
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 171
to conduct a new mission to Sackatoo. ‘These promises, it
is extremely probable, were mere inferences drawn from the
_ empty hoasts of the sultan; he being master neither of Ra-
kah nor Fundah, nor of any place within a great distance
of the Gulf of Benin. Be this as it may, there seemed
good ground to expect a welcome for the British envoys
when they should reach his capital ; and in that direction,
it was conjectured, were to be found the termination of the
Niger, and also the most direct channel of trade with re-
gions already ascertained to be the finest in Africa. ©
These were views to which the enterprising statesmen
who conducted the naval government at home were never
insensible. They equipped afresh Myr. Clapperton, now
promoted to the rank of captain, and sent him to the Gulf
of Benin ; naming as his associates, Captain Pearce, an ex-
cellent draftsman, and Mr. Morrison, a naval surgeon of
some experience, whose skill, it was hoped, might be of
great avail in preserving the health of the whole expedition.
The mission, in the end of 1825, reached its destination ;
but, as might perhaps have been anticipated, they could
hear nothing of Rakah or of Fundah, of any messengers
sent by Bello, nor of any town that was subject to him on
this coast. They were not, however, discouraged; and
having consulted Mr. Houtson, whom a long residence had
made thoroughly acquainted with the country, they were
advised not to attempt ascending the banks of the river,—a
circuitous track, and covered with pestilential swamps,—but
to take the route from Badagry as the most direct and com-
_ modious, and by which, in fact, almost all the caravans from
Houssa come down to the coast.
On the 7th December, 1825, the mission set out from
Badagry on this grand journey into Interior Africa. But at
the very first they were guilty of a fatalimprudence. During
the nights of the 7th and 9th they slept in the open air, and
on the last occasion in the public market-place of Dagmoo,
without even their beds, which had been sent away by mis-
take. The consequence was, that in a day or two Morrison
and Pearce were attacked with a dangerous fever, and Clap-
perton with fits of ague. It does not appear why they did
not stop in one of the towns, and endeavour by rest to re-
eruit their strength; on the contrary, they pushed on till
the 22d, when Captain Clapperton, seeing the illness of his
172 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
companions increase, urged them either to remain behind
or return to Badagry. ‘They insisted on proceeding; but
next day Dr. Morrison could struggle no longer, and de-
parted for the coast : he died before reaching it. Captain
Pearce persevered to the last, and sunk_on the road, breath-
ing his last at nine in the evening of the 27th. Clapperton
was thus left to pursue his long and adventurous journey in
very painful and desolate circumstances. He had only a
faithful servant, Richard Lander, who stood by him in all
his fortunes, with Pascoe, a not very trusty African, whom
he had hired at Badagry.
After a journey of sixty miles, the travellers entered the
kingdom of Yarriba, called also from its capital Eyeo. ‘This
country had long been reported on the coast as the most
populous, powerful, and flourishing of all Western Africa,
holding even Dahomey in vassalage. It answered the most —
favourable descriptions given of it; the fields were exten-
sively cleared, and covered with thriving plantations of In-
dian corn, millet, yams, and cotton. A loom nearly similar
to that used in England was busily plied; the women were
spinning and dyeing the cloths with their fine indigo. These
African dames were also seen going from town to town
bearing large burdens on their heads,—an employment
shared by the numerous wives of the king of Eyeo; their
majesties having nothing to distinguish them from the hum-
blest of their fellow-countrywomen. Amid these laudable
occupations, they exercised their powers of speech with
such incessant perseverance as to confirm the Captain in
what appears to have been with him an old maxim, that no
power on earth, not even African despotism, can silence a
woman’s tongue; yet, as this loquacity seems to have been
always exerted in kindness, he~ need not, we think, have
groaned quite so heavily under its stunning influence.
The English travellers were agreeably surprised by the
reception which they experienced during this journey. In
Houssa they had laboured under the most dire proscription
as Caffres, enemies of the prophet, and foredoomed to hell;
and, as black is there the standard of beauty, their colour
was considered by the ladies a deep leprous deformity, de-
tracting from every quality that might otherwise have been:
agreeable in their persons. With the negro and p
Eyeos there was no religious enmity; and having under- |
/
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 173
stood, by reports from the coast, the superiority of Euro- |
peans in arts and wealth, this people viewed them almost as
_ beings of a superior order, to see whom they felt an eager
and friendly curiosity. A rumour had also spread that they
came to do good, and to make peace wherever there was
war. On entering any town they were soon encircled by
thousands, all desirous to see white men, and testifying re-
spect,—the males by taking off their caps, the women by
bending on their knees and one elbow. In some places
singing and dancing were kept up through the whole night
in celebration of their arrival. |
The mission had now to cross a range of hills about eighty
miles broad, reported to reach the whole way from behind
Ashantee to Benin. The highest pinnacle was not supposed
to exceed 2500 feet, which is a good deal lower than Skid-
daw; but its passes were peculiarly narrow and rugged,
hemmed in by gigantic blocks of granite 600 or 700 feet
high, sometimes fearfully overhanging the road. The valley
varied in breadth from 100 yards to half a mile; but every
level spot, extending along the foot of these mountains, or
even suspended amid their cliffs, was covered with fine crops
of yams, millet, and cotton. A large population thus filled
these alpine recesses, all animated with the most friendly
spirit. Parties met the travellers on the road, or were sta-
tioned on the rocks and heights above, which echoed with
choral songs and sounds of welcome. After ascending hill
over hill they came to Chaki, a large and populous town,
situated on the very summit of the ridge. Here the cabo-
ceer had a house and a large stock of provisions ready for
them: he put many questions, and earnestly pleaded for a
stay of two or three days.
' After descending to the plain, and passing througha num-
ber of other towns, the party came to Tshow, where a ca
boceer arrived from the king of Yarriba, with a numerous
train of attendants both on foot and horseback. This chief,
having shaken hands with them, immediately rubbed his
whole body, that the blessing of their touch might be spread
all over him. His people kept up through the night a con-
stant hubbub,—singing, drumming, dancing, and firing ;
and, claiming free quarters, they devoured such a quantity
of provisions that the party fared worse than in any other
place. Next morning they et out with a crowded escort
2
174 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
of bowmen on foot, and of horsemen ill mounted but active,
dressed in the most grotesque manner, and covered with
charms. On reaching the brow of a hill, the great capital
of Eyeo opened to the view, on the opposite side of a vast
plain bordered by a ridge of granite hills, and surrounded
by a brilliant belt of verdure. On reaching the gate they
entered the house of a caboceer, till notice was sent to the
king, who immediately invited them to his palace. They
had five miles to march through this spacious capital, du-
ring which the multitude collected was so immense, and ©
raised such a cloud of dust, that they must have stopped
short, had not their escort, by a gentle but steady application
of the whip and the cane, opened a way, and finally cleared
a space in front of the throne. 'The king was sitting under
a veranda, dressed in two long cotton tobes, and ornamented
with three strings of glass beads, and a pasteboard crown
covered with blue cotton, which had been procured from the
coast. The mission, instead of the usual prostration, merely
took off their hats, bowed, and presented their hands, which
the king lifted up three times, calling out “ Ako! ako !”
(How do you do?) His wives behind, drawn up in a dense
body, which the travellers vainly attempted to number,
raised loud cheers, and smiled in the most gracious man-
ner. After an interview of half an hour, the chief eunuch
showed the party to handsome and commodious lodgings,
where a good dinner was prepared. In the evening they
were surprised by a visit from his majesty in plain patri-
archal style, with a long staff in his hand, saymg that he’
could not sleep without again inquiring after them.
Eyeo, or Katunga, capital of the kingdom of Yarriba, i is
fifteen miles in circumference, and supplied by seven large’
markets ; but there are many open fields and spaces in this
wide circuit, and hence the number of inhabitants could not -
even be conjectured. The population of the country must.
be very great, the whole béing under cultivation, and’ the
towns large and numerous. ‘The government, in theory, is
most despotic. The greatest chiefs, when they approach
the sovereign, throw themselves prostrate on the ground,
lie flat on their faces, and heap sand or dust dpon their
heads; and the same degrading homage is paid to the
nobles by their inferiors. Yet the administration seems _
mild and paternal; no instances of wanton cruelty were
~
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 175
Observed ; and the flourishing state of the people showed
clearly the absence of all severe oppression. The horrid
and bloody customs, which produce such dark scenes in
Ashantee and Dahomey, were mentioned here with detesta-
tion. At the death of the king only, a few of his principal
ministers and favourite wives take poison, presented to them
in parrots’ eggs, that they may accompany and serve him
in the invisible world. The first question asked by every
caboceer and great man was, How many wives the king of
England had? being prepared, it should seem, to measure
his greatness by that standard; but when told that he had
only one, they gave themselves upto along and ungovernable
fit of laughter, followed by expressions of pity and wonder
how -he could possibly exist in that destitute condition.
The king of Yarriba’s boast was, that his wives, linked hand
in hand, would reach entirely across the kingdom. Queens,
however, in Africa are applied to various uses, of which Eu-
ropeans have little idea. ‘They were seen forming a large
band of body-guards; and their majesties were observed in
évery part of the kingdom acting as porters, and bearing on
their heads enormous burdens ; so that whether they should
be called queens or slaves seems scarcely doubtfal.
The Eyeos, like other nations purely negro, are wholly
unacquainted with letters or any form of writing; these
are known only to the Arabs or Fellatas, who penetrate
thither in small numbers ; yet they have a great deal of ex-
temporary poetry. Every great man has bands of singers
of both sexes, who: constantly attend him, and loudly cele-
brate his achievements in poems of their own composition.
The convivial meetings of the people, even their labours and
journeys, are cheered by songs composed for the occasion,
arid sung often with considerable taste. Their houses are
mere clay-built cottages, yet studiously adorned with carv-
ing; the door-posts and every piece of furniture are co-
vered' with well-executed representations of warlike proces
sions, and of the movements of huge serpents seizing their
prey. They have also public performances, which do not
indeed deserve the nameof dramatic,'as they consist of mere
mimicry arid buffoonery. The first actof apiece witnessed
Wy the strangers exhibited men dancing in sacks, who per
ormed their part to admiration. One of the bags opened,
and there came forth the boa constrictor, fourteen feet long
176 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
covered with cotton cloth, imitating the colour and stripes
of the original. Though rather full in the body, it pre-
sented very nearly the form, and imitated well the actions,
of that huge animal. The mouth was opened wide, pro-
bably by two hands, to devour a warrior armed with a sword,
who had come forth to contend with this formidable crea-
ture, and who struck it with repeated blows, till it writhed
in agony, and finally expired. Lastly, out of another sack
came the white devil, a meager, shivering figure, and so
painted as to represent an European. ‘ It took snuff, rubbed
its hands, and attempted, in the most awkward manner, to
walk on its naked feet. The audience, amid shouts of laugh-
ter, called the particular attention of the Captain to this per-
formance ; which being really good, he deemed it advisable
to join in the mirth.
As soon as our traveller was fixed at Eyeo, he began to
negotiate in regard to the means of advancing into Houssa,
anxious to pass through that country and reach Bornou be-
fore the rains should set in. ‘The king had professed a de-
termination to serve him in every shape; but this proved to
be the very thing in which he was least inclined to fulfil his
promise. All African princes seek to make a monopoly of
the strangers who enter their territory. It was hinted, that
one journey was well and fully employed in seeing the king--
dom of Yarriba and visiting its great monarch.. Captain
Clapperton, having pleaded the positive command of his
sovereign, was then informed that the direct route through
Nyffe was much disturbed by civil war, the inroad of the
Fellatas, and the insurrection of a great body of Houssa
slaves,—reports suspected at the time to have been got
merely to detain the travellers, but afterward found to
be correct. The king absolutely refused permission to pro-
ceed to Rakah, though situated on the Niger at the distance _
of only three days’ journey; but he undertook to convey
them to Houssa bya safer though somewhat circuitous
route, through the kingdom of Borgoo, — >
_ After passing through a number of smaller places, the
mission arrived at Kiama, capital of a district of the same
name, and containing 30,000 inhabitants. Kiama, Wawa,
Niki, and Boussa are provinces composing the kingdom of
Borgov, all subject in a certain sense to the sovereign of
Boussa; but the different cities plunder and make war ov
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. i77
each other, without the slightest regard to the supreme au-
thority. ‘The people of Kiama and of Borgoo in general
have the reputation of being the greatest thieves and rob-
bers in all Africa,—a character which nothing in their actual
. conduct appeared to confirm. Clapperton was well received
at Kiama; and the king soon visited him with the most sin-
gular train ever seen by an European. Six young girls,
without any apparel except a fillet on the forehead, and a
string of beads round the waist, carrying each three light -
spears, ran by the side of his horse, keeping pace with it at
full gallop. ‘Their light form, the vivacity of their eyes,
and the ease with which they appeared to fly over the ground,
made them appear something more than mortal.” On the
king’s entrance the young ladies laid down their spears,
wrapped themselves in blue mantles, and attended on his
majesty. On his taking leave, they discarded their attire ;
he mounted his horse, “‘ and away went the most extraordi-
nary cavalcade I ever saw in my life.” Our traveller was’
visited by the principal queen, who had lost her youth and
charms ; but a good deal of flirtation passed between him
and the eldest daughter, who, however, being twenty-five,
was considered in Africa as already on the wane. Yarro,
the king, was extremely accommodating, and no difficulty
was found in proceeding onward to Wawa.
Wawa is a large city, containing 18,000 inhabitants, en-
riched by the constant passage of the Houssa caravans.
The people spend the wealth thus acquired in dissolute
pleasure, and have been denounced by our traveller the most
complete set of roaring topers he had ever known. The fes-
tivities were usually prolonged till near morning, and the town
resounded through the whole night with the song, the
dance, the castanet, and the Arab guitar. The Wawa ladies
paid a very particular and rather troublesome attention to
the English party. ‘The Captain complains of being pes-
tered by the governor’s daughter, who came ‘several times
a-day, always half-tipsy, painted and bedizened in the high-
est style of African finery, to make love to him ; and on meet-,
‘ing only with cold excuses, she departed usually in a flood
of tears. But the most persevering suit was that of Zuma,
an Arab widow, possessor of a thousand slaves, and the se-
cond personage in Wawa. Being turned of twenty, she
was considered here as past her bloom, and a too ample
i78 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
indulgence in the luxuries which her wealth afforded had en-
larged her dimensions till they could be justly likened to
those of a huge water-cask ; yet she had still some beauty,
and, being only of a deep-brown complexion, considered
herself white, and was in the most eager search after a
white husband. In this pursuit she cast her eyes first upon
the servant, to whom our traveller hesitates not to assign
the palm of good looks in preference to himself; and he
gave Lander. full permission to follow his fortune. But that
sage person, unmoved by all her charms and possessions,
repelled the overture in so decided a manner, that the widow
soon saw there was nothing to be made of him. She then
withdrew her artillery from Lander, and directed it entirely
against his master, the Captain, to whom she laid very close
siege. At length, in a frolic, he agreed to visit her. He
found her surrounded by every circumstance of African
pomp, seated cross-legged on a piece of ‘Turkey carpet, with
an English pewter mug for her goora-pot, and dressed in a
rich striped silk and cotton robe of country manufacture.
Her eyebrows were dyed black, her hair blue, her hands and
feet red ; necklaces and girdles of beads, coral, and gold
profusely adorned her person. She made a display of ad- —
ditional finery lodged in her repositories, leading him
through a series of apartments, one of which was orna-
mented with a number of pewter dishes’ and bright brass
pans. After these preliminaries, she at once declared her
wish to accompany him on his journey, and proposed to
send forthwith for a malem, or holy man, to read the fatha,
by which their fates would be indissolubly united. Clap-
perton, who seems to have been completely stunned by this
proposal, stammered out the best apology he could, and has-
tened away. His conduct, however, does not appear to
have been so decisive as to deter the lady from the most en-
ergetic perseverance in her suit. She even obtained his
permission for his servant Pascoe to accept a wife from
among her slaves; but he was not aware that, according
to African ideas, she had thus acquired a sort of claim to
himself.
Regardless of all these tender solicitations, our traveller
had no sooner completed his arrangements than he set out
for the Niger, leaving directions for his baggage to join
him at the ferry of Comie, while he went round by way of
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 179
‘Boussa. We shall follow him at present to the former place,
where he did not find any of his baggage, but learned that
the widow, having placed it under arrest, had left Wawa
with drums beating and a numerous train; and besides,
that she claimed a full right to his person, because his ser-
vant Pascoe had accepted a wife at her hand. It was whis-
pered, moreover, that she was meditating to supplant the
governor,—a scheme which, aided by the personal bravery
of the strangers, she might probably realize,—and afterward
she meant to invite the Captain to ascend the throne of
Wawa. “It would have been a fine end to my jotirney in-
deed,” says he, “if I had deposed old Mohammed, and set
up for myself, with a walking tunbutt for aqueen.” Scarcely
had he received this account whena present from the widow
intimated her arrival in a neighbouring village. Our au-
thor, however, insensible to all the brilliant hopes thus
opened, set off full speed for Wawa to recover his baggage.
On his arrival, the governor refused to liberate it till Zuma’s
return,—Clapperton in vain protesting that his movements
and hers had no sort of connexion. However, next day,
the sound of drums was heard, and the widow made her
entrée in full pomp, astride on a very fine horse, with hous-
ings of scarlet cloth, trimmed with lace. The large cir-
cumference of her own person was invested in a red silk
mantle, red trowsers, and morocco boots; and numerous
spells, sewed variously in coloured leather, were hung all
round her. She was followed by a train of armed attend-
ants, and preceded by a drummer decked in ostrich feathers.
On the whole, the scene was so splendid, that our hero’s re-
solution seems for a moment to have wavered. However,
his part was soon taken. Pascoe was directed to return
his wife, and thus extinguish all claim that could be founded
upon her ; and having received his baggage, our country-
man set forward without even admitting the fond widow to
any farther conference.
On his way to Comie, Clapperton had visited Boussa,
a place chiefly interesting as the scene where the career of
Park terminated in a manner so tragical. Every thing
tended to confirm the report of Amadi Fatouma, and to
dispel the skepticism with which it had been originally re-
garded. The king, however, and all the Citizens, spoke of
the event with deep grief and reluctance, and disavowed all
180 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY.
personal concern in the transaction. One man gave as the
reason of the attack on the discoverers, that the English
had been mistaken for the advanced guard of the Fellatas,
who were then ravaging Soudan. It was added, that a
number of natives died in consequence, as was imagined,
of eating the meat found in the boats, which was supposed
to be human fiesh. That the English have no abode but
on the sea, and that they eat the flesh of the negroes whom
they purchase, are, it seems, two ideas most widely pre-
valent over Africa. Even the king of Boussa could scarcely
be brought to believe that they had a spot of land to dwell
upon. The Captain and his party were received, however,
with the same kindness and cordiality which they had ex-
perienced ever since they entered the country. Seven boats
were here waiting for them, sent by the sultan of Youri,
with a letter, in which he earnestly solicited a visit, and
promised, on that condition, and on that only, to deliver up
the books and papers of Park. It is deeply to be regretted
that our traveller could not reconcile it with his plans to go
to Youri at this time, proposing to visit it on his return,
which, it is well known, never took place.
On crossing the Niger, Captain Clapperton entered
Nyffe, a country which had been always reported to him as_
the finest, most industrious, and most flourishing in Africa ,
but he found it, as indeed he had been forewarned, by the
king of Yarriba, a prey to the most desolating civil war.
The succession being disputed. between two princes, one 0
them called in the Fellatas, and, by giving up his country
to their ravages, obtained the privilege of reigning over its
ruins.. Our traveller, in his journey to the sansan or camp,
saw only wasted towns, plantations choked with weeds, and
a few remnants of a miserable population. This African
camp consisted of a number of huts like bee-hives, arranged |
in streets, with men weaving, women spinning, markets at
every green tree, holy men counting their beads, and disso-
lute slaves drinking ; so that, but for the number of horses —
and armed men, and the diunis beating, it might have been
mistaken for a populous village.
Amid this desolation, two. towns, Koolfu and Kufa, being
walled and situated on the high road of the Houssa cara-
vans, had protected themselves in some measure from the
common calamity, and were still flourishing seats of trade.
CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 181
All the merchants halted for some time at Koolfu, and those
from Bornou seldom went farther. The market was
crowded with the same articles as that of Kano. The
Moslem religion was the most prevalent; but it had not
yet moulded society into the usual gloomy monotony ; nor
ad it succeeded in secluding or subjecting the female sex,
who; on the contrary, were the most active agents in every
mercantile transaction. Our traveller knew twenty-one
female brokers living at the same time im one house, who
went about continually from market to market. Many had
amassed considerable wealth, and were persons of great
consequence,—quite in their own right: Elated with this
distinction, they claimed considerable’ latitude as to their
deportment, ard spent whole nights with the mén in sing-
ing and drinking,—a species of indulgence very prevalent
In all these entrepots of African trade. The English, how-
ever, experienced here none of the bigoted enmity which
they had encountered in other Moslem cities: On the con-
trary, they were tle objects of much kindness; the prin-
cipal people of the place sent presents, and the lower ranks
sought to obtain a sight of them by mounting the trees
which overlooked: their residence. The Koran does not
seem to have much embarrassed the Koolfuans. Their
‘only mode of studying it was, to have the characters written
with a black substance on a piece of board, thén to wash
them off, and drink the water; and when asked by our tra-
veller what spiritual benefit could be derived from the mere
swallowing of dirty water, they indignantly retorted,—
“What! do you call the name of God dirty water?” This
mode of imbibing sacred truth is indeed extensively pur-
_ sued throughout the interior of the African contment.
Captain Clapperton passed next through Kotongkora
and Guari, two states which, united in a league with Cubbi
and Youri, had shaken off the yoke of the Fellatas. Guari,
strongly situated among hills, could bring a thousand horse
into the field. He then entered Zeg-zeg, a Fellata country,
which, especially around Zaria, its capital, seems to be one
of the very finest in all Africa. It was beautifully varie~
gated with hill and dale, like the finest parts of England,
was covered with plentiful crops and rich pastures, and pro-
duced the finest rice grown in aiy part of that continent.
Rowé of talltrees, pei gigantic avenues of poplar,
182 CLAPPERTON‘’S SECOND JOURNEY.
extended from hill to hill. Zaria, like many other African
cities, might be considered as a district of country sur-
rounded with walls. When the Captain entered, he saw
for some time only fields of grain, with the tops of houses
rising behind them ; still such was its extent, that its popu-
lation was said to exceed that of Kano, and to amount to
at least 50,000. .
Setting out from Zaria, he soon reached his old quarters
at Kano; but he unfortunately found that great city in a
state of dreadful agitation. ‘There was war on every side;
hostilities had been declared between the king of Bornou
and the Fellatas; the provinces of Zamfra and Goobur
were in open insurrection; the Tuaricks threatened an
inroad; in short, there was not a quarter to which the mer-
chants durst send a.caravan. Kano being nearly midway
between Bornou and Sackatoo, Clapperton left his baggage
there to be conveyed to the former on his return, and set
out for the capital of Bello, bearing only the presents des-
tined for that prince. On his way he found numerous
bands mustering to form an army destined to attack Coonia,
the rebel metropolis of Goobur. The appearance of these
troops was very striking as they passed along the borders
of some beautiful little lakes formed by the river Zirmie.
These waters were bordered by forests of flowering acacias,
with dark-green leaves, the shadows of which were re-
flected on the smooth surface of the lake like sheets of bur-
nished gold and silver. ‘The smoking fires, the sounding
of horns, the beating of their gongs or drums, the braying
of their brass and tin trumpets, every where the calls on the
names of Mohammed, Abda, Mustapha, with the neighing
of horses and the braying of asses, gave animation to the
beautiful scenery of the lake, and its sloping green and
woody banks.”
At length the army mustered to the number of 50,000 or
60,000, chiefly on foot; a rude feudal host, arranging -
themselves according to their provinces and chiefs, without _
any military order. In a short time, they formed a dense
circle around the walls of Coonia. Captain Clapperton ex-
pected to see some brilliant exploit performed by the united
force of this great army, commanded by the sultan and Ga-
dado in person. The whole, however, both horse and foot,
kept carefully out of the reach of the arrows, which, with a
\
' CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY. 183
sure and steady aim, the enemy directed against them.
From time to time indeed a doughty warrior, well covered
with armour, rode up, calling, “ Shields to the wall! Why
don’t you come on?’’ but he instantly and quickly rode
back, amid the derisive shouts of his countrymen. The
only parties who exposed themselves to real danger were a
few chiefs, in quilted armour, ornamented with gaudy robes
and ostrich plumes, and of such weight that two men were
required to lift them on horseback: several of them were
brought down by the fire of one well-directed musket from
the walls. Evening closed without any thing being effected
by this band of heroes; and in the middle of the night, an
alarm being raised of a sally from the garrison, the. whole
besieging army began a tumultuous flight, tumbling over
each other and upsetting every thing in their way, thinking
only how they might soonest escape from danger. The
‘retreat was continued through the whole of the following
day and night, no halt having taken place till ten of the
second morning. ‘Thus closed this memorable campaign.
Clapperton, at the sultan’s suggestion, repaired to Sack-
atoo (which he now calls Soccatoo); the monarch himself
remaining behind at Magaria, a neighbouring town, which
he was raising into a new capital. The traveller’s time
was spent between the two places. He found, however,
an entire change in the feelings of kindness and cordiality
towards himself, which had been so remarkably displayed
in the former journey. Jealousies had begun to fester in
the breasts of the African princes. They,dreaded some am-
bitious design in those repeated missions sent by England
without any conceivable motive ; for, that men should un-
dertake such long journeys out of mere curiosity, they could
never imagine. ‘The sultan accordingly had received a
letter from the court of Bornou, warning him that, by this
very mode of sending embassies and presents, which the
English were now following towards the states of Central
Africa, they had made themselves masters of India, and
trampled on all its native princes. The writer, therefore,
gave it as his opinion that Clapperton should immediately
be put to death. An alarm had, in fact, been spread
throughout Sackatoo that the English were coming to in-
vade Houssa. The panic was groundless; no European
potentate would at present dream of attempting to conquer
184 CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY,
those vast and almost inaccessible regions of Interior
Africa. However, with the imperfect knowledge possessed
by these chiefs, and the facts before them relative to India,
they had scarcely the means of judging as to the foundation
of their apprehensions. The sultan, irritated doubtless at
the shameful result of his grand expedition against Coonia,
felt also another and mure pressing fear. War had just
broken out between himself and the king of Bornou;
Clapperton was on his way to visit that prince, and had
left six muskets at Kano, supposed to be intended as pre-
sents to him; and six muskets in Central Africa, where the
whole Fellata empire could scarcely muster forty, were
almost enough to turn the scale between these two great mi-
litary powers. Under the impulse of these feelings, Bello pro-
ceeded to steps unworthy of a prince and a man of honour,
He demanded a sight. of the letter which Clapperton was
conveying to the king of Bornou; and when this was of
course refused, he seized it by violence. Lander was in-
duced by false pretences to bring the baggage from Kano
to Sackatoo, when forcible possession was taken of the six
muskets. The Captain loudly exclaimed against these
proceedings, declaring them to amount to the basest rob-
bery, to a breach of all faith, and to be the worst actions
of which any man could be guilty. This was rather strong
language to be used to a sovereign, especially to one who
could at any moment have cut off his head ; and the minis-
ter even dropped hints as if matters might come to that
issue, though, in point of fact, the government did not pro-
ceed to any personal violence. But, from other causes, the
eareer of this spirited and hitherto successful traveller was
now drawing to a close. ,
The strong constitution of Clapperton had till this period
enabled him to resist all the baneful influences of an Afri- |
can climate. He had recovered, though perhaps not com-
pletely, from the effects of the rash exposure which had
proved fatal to his two companions; but he had, when —
overcome with heat and fatigue, in hunting at Magaria,
lain down on a damp spot in the open air, and was soon
after seized with dysentery, which continued to assume
more alarming symptoms. Indeed, after the seizure of the
letter to the sultan of Bornou, he was never seen to smile,
and in his sleep was heard’ addressing loud reproaches to
CLAPPERTON S SECOND JOURNEY. 185
the Arabs. Unable to rise from bed, and deserted by all
his African friends, who saw him no longer a favourite at
court, he was watched with tender care by his faithful ser-
vant Richard Lander, who devoted his whole time to at-
_ tendance on his sick master. At length he called him to
his bedside, and said—* Richard, I shall shortly be no
more,—I feel myself dying.” Almost choked with grief,
Lander replied, “‘ God forbid, my dear master,—you will
live many years yet.” But the other replied, “don’t be
so much affected, my dear boy, I entreat you ; it is the will
of the Almighty, it cannot be helped.” He then gave par-
ticular directions as to the disposal of his papers, and of all
that remained of his property; to which strict attention
was promised. “He then,” says Lander, ‘took my hand
within his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear
stood glistening in his eye, said, in a low but deeply-affect-
ing tone, ‘My dear Richard, if you had not been with me
I should have died long ago; I can only thank you with
my latest breath for your kindness and attachment to me ;
and if I could have lived to return with you, you should have
been placed beyond the reach of want ; but God will reward
you.’” He still survived some days, and appeared even to
rally a little ; but, one morning, Lander was alarmed by a
Sr rattling sound in his throat, and, hastening to the
edside, found him sitting up, and staring wildly around ;
he laid his head gently on the dying man’s shoulder ; some
indistinct words quivered on his lips; he strove, but inef-
fectually, to give them utterance, and expired without a
struggle or a sigh. .
Bello seems to have repented in some degree of his harsh
conduct, especially after news arrived of a great victory
peter by his troops over the sultan of Bornou. He allowed
ander to perform the funeral obsequies with every mark
of respect. He also supplied him with the means of return-
ing home, allowing him to choose his road, though advising
him to prefer that through the Great Desert; but Lander
had already had too many dealings with the Arabs, and
therefore preferred his old track through the negro coun-
tries. |
On his arrival at Kano, Lander formed a spirited and
highly-laudable design, which proves him to be possessed
of a mind much superior to ae This was nothing
186 § CLAPPERTON’S SECOND JOURNEY,
less than an attempt to resolve the great question respect«
ing the termination of the Niger; which he hoped to effect
by proceeding to Fundah, the place, every one admits, at
which the point may most easily be determined,—whether
it flows onward to the sea or turns eastward into the inte-
rior. Lander, in order to reach that city, proceeded due
south, through a country diversified with rising ground, but
still presenting the same fertile and luxuriant aspect as
that through which he had just passed. He was told,
however, that to the south there was a very elevated
mountainous region, inhabited by a savage people called
Yemyems. These are probably the Lamlam of Edrisi,
reported to be devourers of. human flesh, and who were
said to have lately killed and eaten a whole caravan; since
which time no one had been much inclined to go near them,
The chief place through which Lander passed was Cuttup,
composed of five hundred little villages, clustered together,
and forming the market for avery great extent of country,
The king’s wives were vastly delighted to receive one or
two gilt buttons from the traveller’s jacket; and, imagin-
ing them to be pure gold, fastened them to their ears,
From Cuttup he proceeded to Dunrora, where he was in-
formed that about half a day’s journey eastward was the
large city of Jacoba, near which flowed the Shary, in a
continuous course between the Tchad and Fundah ; which
last place lay now in the direction of due west. Lander
here promised himself the satisfaction, in ten or twelve
days, of finally solving the grand African problem, when
suddenly four horsemen, with foaming steeds, galloped into
the town. Their leader, followed by an immense multi-
tude, rode up, and told the traveller that he must instantly
return to the king of Zeg-zeg. Lander endeavoured to
argue the point, but could get no answer, except that the
must either bring him with them or lose their heads, Tt
behooved him then, of necessity, to repair to Zaria, the eapi-
tal, where, being introduced to the kmg, and having de
one
Fun-
livered his presents, that prince boasted of havin
him the greatest possible favour, since the people of I
dah, being new at war with Sultan Bello, would certainly
have murdered any one who had come from visiting and
carrying gifts to that monarch. From this reasoning,
gound or otherwise, Lander had no appeal, and found no
LAING. ) 187
alternative but to make his way back by his former path,
In all the places through which he passed, anxious in-
quiries were made about “ his father,” as the people called
Clapperton ; and when they heard of his death, they raised
loud lamentations. He reached Badagry on the 21st No-
vember, 1827; but, being detained some time there and at
Cape Coast Castle, did not reach England till the 30th
April, 1828. )
The British government were still indefatigable in their
exertions to explore every region of Africa. At the same
time that Clapperton proceeded on his second expedition,
Major Laing, who had distinguished himself in the Ashan-
tee war, and in the short excursion already mentioned to-
wards the source of the Niger, undertook to penetrate to
‘Timbuctoo, which, from the first era of modern discovery,
has been regarded as the most prominent city of Central
Africa. Tripoli was again chosen as the starting point,
from which he directed his steps south-west across the »
Desert by way of Ghadamis. He set out under the pro-
tection of sheik Babani, who had resided twenty-two years at
‘Timbuctoo, and proved now to be governor of Ghadamis ;
but in the midst of the Desert, sixteen days after leaving
Tuat, a band of ferocious Tuaricks surprised the cafila
while Major Laing was in bed, and having inflicted twenty-
four wounds, eight of them with a sabre, left him for dead.
Through the care of his companions, however, he made a
surprising recovery, numerous portions of bone having
been extracted from his head and temples. After some
farther delays he succeeded, on the 18th August, 1826, in
reaching Timbuctoo, where he remained for upwards of a
month. Several letters were received from him dated at
that celebrated city, respecting which he stated, that, ex-
cept in point of extent, which did not exceed the circuit of
four miles, it had completely answered his expectation;
that he had found its records copious and interesting ; and
had collected ample materials for correcting and improving
the geography of this part of Africa, But his departure
was hastened by the following circumstance: Labo, or
Bello, sultan of Masina, having obtained the supremac
over Timbuctoo, sent a letter to Osman, the governor, wit
imstructions that the Christian, who, he understood, was
expected there, should be forthwith expelled in such a
188 CAILLIE.
manner as to leave him no hope of ever returning. Laing,
thus obliged to accelerate his retreat, made an arrangement
with Barbooshi, a Moorish merchant, to accompany and
protect him in the route by Sego to the coast, which he had
determined to follow. Three days after leaving Timbuc-
too, when the caravan was in the heart of the Desert, this
wretch, instigated by the basest avarice, murdered, in the.
night-time, the individual whom he had undertaken to
guard, taking possession of all his effects. Yet Major
_ Laing’s papers, it appears, were carried to Timbuctoo ; nay,
the Quarterly Review has produced strong reasons for be-
lieving that they were actually conveyed back to Tripoli,
and that it was owing to the vilest treachery, ina quarter
where it ought least to have been apprehended, that they
have not been forwarded to the British government. As,
however, the light, which is still much wanted, may per-
haps be hereafter thrown on this dark transaction, we wish
not at present to allude to it in a more pointed manner.
Another journey was now announced, which, in the first
instance, strongly excited the public expectation. The
French savans proclaimed throughout Europe, that M.
Caillié, their countryman, animated by the hope of a prize
offered by the Society of Geography, had penetrated across
Africa from Sierra Leone to Morocco, having passed through
Jenne and Timbuctoo, those two great seats of commerce
which modern travellers had sought so long to reach, and
whence none had ever returned. Caillié, rewarded with 2
pension and the cross of the Legion of Honour, was imme-
diately classed with the first of modern travellers. ‘These
somewhat extravagant pretensions, contrasted with the de-
fects of the narrative itself when laid before the publie, gave
rise in high quarters to a doubt whether there were any
reality whatever in this expedition, and whether M. Caillié
were not another Damberger. On a careful examination
of circumstances we are inclined to believe the aecuracy of
the narrative. There seems good authority for admittin
his departure from Sierra Leone; for his having announ
the intention to undertake this journey; and, lastly, for his
arrival at Rabat in Morocco, in the condition of a dis-
tressed, way-worn traveller. His statement, too, with all
its defects, bears an aspect of simplicity and good faith, and
contains various minute details, including undesigned coin-
-
CAILLIE. 189
eidences with facts ascertained from other quarters. His
false reports of celestial phenomena might arise from his
ignorance of such subjects ; while his inaccuracies in re-
gard to Major Laing might proceed from the defective hear-
say information on which he depended. Perhaps these
last form rather a presumption in his favour, since, in com-
posing a forgery, he would probably have brought his state-
ments into a studious agreement with those of the Quar-
terly Review, well known as the only authentic source in
this country. _
Though disposed to consider M. Caillié’s expedition as
genuine and authentic, we regard it nevertheless as having
made only a limited addition to our knowledge of Interior
Africa. English travellers had already explored the coun-
try all around Timbuctoo, had traced the Niger far beyond
that city, and had ascertained its position in respect to the
surrounding regions. The object now is, to obtain a de-
scription of Timbuctoo by an intelligent and learned tra-°
veller, which M. Caillié is not. He certainly deserves com-
mendation for his enterprise; but fortune has denied him
education, and nature has not bestowed upon him any
ample share of reflection or judgment. Nevertheless it
was impossible to pass through such extensive and re-
markable countries without gleaning some valuable inform-
ation, of which we shall now endeavour to extract the most
important particulars. |
René Caillié was born in 1800, of poor parents, at
Mauzé, in the department of the Deux Sévres. The read-
ing of voyages and travels, and especially of Robinson
Crusoe, inspired him, he tells us, with such an unconquer-
able thirst for adventure as took away all relish for the
sports and occupations of his age; and, after some opposi-
tion from his friends, he was permitted to follow his in-
clination. Having got a sight of some maps of Africa, the
vast spaces left vacant, or marked as unknown, excited in
his mind a peculiar interest ; hence, in 1816, he sailed from
Rochefort for the Senegal. Some time after his arrival,
having learned the departure of Major Gray’s expedition for
the interior, he resolved to join it, and actually set out on
foot for that purpose ; but the fatigue of walking over loose
sand under a burning sun overpowered him, and he was
happy to obtain a water conveyance to Goree, He even
190 CAILLIE.
left Africa, but returned in the end of 1818. Finding at
St. Louis a party setting out with supplies for Major Gray,
he joined them, and arrived at Bondou, but only in time to
witness and ee avin of that expedition.
M. Caillié’s health having suffered severely from the
fatigues of this journey, he returned and spent some years
in France; but'in 1824 he repaired again to the Senegal,
and resumed his schemes of discovery. With the aid of
M. Roger, the governor, he passed nearly a year among
the tribe of Moors called Braknas, and conceived himself to
have acquired such a knowledge of the manners and reli-
gion of that race as would fit him for travelling in the cha-
racter of a converted Mohammedan on a pilgrimage to
Mecca. Having returned to St. Louis, he solicited from
two successive governors the sum of 6000 francs, with
which he undertook to reach Timbuctoo; but a deaf ear
was turned to his application. He then repaired to Sierra
Leone, and made the same request to General Turner and
Sir Neil Campbell ; but these officers could not be expected,
without authority from home, to bestow such a sum on a
foreigner possessing no very striking qualifications. They
received him kindly, however, and gave him appointments
out of which he saved about 80/.; when, stimulated by the
prize of 1000 francs offered by the French Society of Geo-
graphy to any individual who should succeed in reaching
Timbuctoo, he formed the spirited resolution to undertake
this arduous journey with only the resources which the
above slender sum could command.
On the 19th April, 1827, M. Caillié set out from Ka-
kundy with a small caravan of Mandingoes. His route lay
through the centre of the kingdom of Foota Jallo, in a line
intermediate between its two capitals of Teemboo and Laby.
This was a very elevated district, watered by the infant
streams of the Senegal and Niger, which descend from a
still higher region towards the south. It was a laborious
route to travel, being steep, rocky, traversed by numerous
ravines and torrents, and often obstructed by dense forests.
It presented, however, many highly-picturesque views;
while the copious rivulets diffused a rich verdure over exten-
sive tracts, on which the Foulahs fed numerous flocks,
which, with a little rice they contrived to raise, sufficed for
their subsistence. Fruits of various kinds, yams, and other
-
/
CAILLIE. 191
vegetables, are also cultivated with success. Their rude
agriculture, however, is conducted chiefly by slaves, who
are in general well treated, living in villages by themselves,
and having two days in the week allowed to provide for
their own subsistence. Caillié, like other writers, describes
the Foulahs as a fine and handsome people, attached to a
pastoral life, but at the same time very warlike, and exces-
sively bigoted in religion.
In his route through Foota Jallo, the traveller crossed
the Bafing, not far from its source, where it was still ford-
able, though it rolled a rapid and foaming stream about 100
paces broad. It is said, at a little distance above, to form
a very striking cataract. About 100 miles farther on, in
the territory of Kankan, near the village of Couroussa, he
came to the Joliba or Niger, already a very considerable
river, eight or ten feet deep, and running at the rate of two
miles and a half an hour.
Kankan, where the traveller spent some time, is described
as an interesting place, with about 6000 inhabitants, sur-
rounded by a beautiful quickset-hedge, answering the pur-
pose of a wall for defence. The market, held thrice a
week, is extremely well supplied, not only with the native
commodities of cloth, honey, wax, cotton, provisions, cattle,
and gold from the neighbouring district of Bouré, but aiso
with European articles brought up from the coast, among
which the chief are, firearms, powder, India calicoes, amber,
beads, and coral. The adjoining country is fertile and
highly cultivated. The Milo, a tributary to the Niger,
runs close by the town. To the north is the province of
Bouré, which our author represents as more abundant in
gold than any other in this part of Africa. The metallic
produce here, as well as in the districts visited by Park, is
entirely alluvial, imbedded in a species of earth, from which
it is separated by agitation in water.
M. Caillié remained more than a month at Kankan be-
fore he could find a caravan to guide him through Ouas-
soulo, a fine country diversified by numerous little villages
surrounded by fields neatly laid out and highly cultivated.
The people are industrious, mild, humane, hospitable, and,
though pagans, feel no enmity towards their Mohammedan
neighbours. The women weave a fine cotton cloth, which
is exported to all the surrounding districts; yet there was
192 CAILLIE.
a want of that cleanliness which, in Kankan, had formed a
pleasant feature. Beyond Ouassoulo is the town of Sam-
batikila, the inhabitants of which live in voluntary poverty,
bestowing little trouble on the cultivation of the ground,
which they allege distracts them from the study of the
Koran,—a statement justly derided as only a specious cloak
for their indolence. The traveller came next to Timé,
situated in a favourable territory, fertile, and profusely irri- _
gated, yielding abundantly various fruits and vegetables,
which are scarce or unknown on the coast. Among these
were the shea or butter-tree, and the kolla or goora nuts, ©
which are esteemed a great luxury, and conveyed in large
quaritities into the interior. ‘The victuals, however, were
found insipid, owing to the almost total absence of salt,
which can only be procured by the wealthy; nor could our
traveller at all relish the plan of seasoning food by a sauce
extracted from the flesh of mice.
He was detained at Timé upwards of five months by a
severe illness. On the 9th January, 1828, he joined a ca-
ravan for Jenne, and proceeded through a district generally
well cultivated, and containing a number of considerable
villages, till, on the 10th March, he came in view, near the
village of Cougalia, of the Niger, which appeared to him
only about 500 feet broad, but very deep, flowing gently
through a flat and open country. The caravan sailed across
it, and, after travelling six miiles, and passing, by rather
deep fords, two smaller branches, they entered the city of
Jenne, one of the most celebrated and important in Central
Africa, and which had never before been visited: by an Euro-
pean traveller. sibeinge:
Jenne is described by Caillié as situated at the eastern ex-
tremity of a branch of the Niger separating below Sego
from the main current, with which, after passing the former.
city, it again unites.. This delineation seems doubtful.
Such a branch, had it existed; would probably have been
‘observed by Park, who, on the contrary, describes the river
which passes by Jenne as a separate stream, tributary to the
Niger. The Arabic term, translated by us 7zs/and, is of very
vague import, being familiarly applied to a peninsula, and
even to a space wholly or partially enclosed by river-
branches. The country around, as far as the eye could
teach, formed only a naked marshy plain, interspersed with
onmEm: 193
& few clumps of trees and bushes. The city was two miles
and a half in circuit, surrounded by a wall of earth; the
houses rather well built, composed of sun-dried bricks, two
stories high, without windows in front, but lighted from in-
terior courts. The streets are too narrow triages, but
of such breadth that seven or eight persons may walk
abreast. The population‘is reckoned by M. Caillié at 8,000
or 10,000; but upon this subject we-suspect he is apt to
form his estimates somewhat too low. The inhabitants
consist of various African tribes, attraeted by the extensive
commerce of which Jenne is the centre. The four prin-
cipal are the Foulahs, Mandingoes, Bambarras, and Moors,
of whom the first are the most numerous, and are bigoted
adherents to the Mohammedan faith, compelling the pagan
Bambarras who resort to Jenne to conform to the rules of. |
the Koran during their temporary residence. The trade is
chiefly in the hands of thirty or forty Moorish merchants,
who often unite in partnership, and maintain a communi- *
~ eation with Timbuctoo, in barks of considerable size ranged
along the river. The negro merchants also carry on busi-
ness, but on a smaller scale, and chiefly in native articles.
The markets are filled with the productions of the sur-
rounding country, either for consumption or exportation,
—cloth, grain, fruits, kolla-nuts, meat, fish, gold from
Bouré, and unhappily with numerous slaves, who are pa-
raded through the streets, and offered at the rate of from
35,000 to 40,000 cowries each. These commodities draw
‘in return from Timbuctoo, salt, Indian cloths, firearms,
beads, toys, and all the variety of European articles. The
merchants of Jenne were found more. polished’ in their
manners than any native Africans with whom Caillié had
yet held intercourse: they were extremely hospitable, en-
tertaining him at free quarters during his whole stay; but
he considers them as having driven an exceedingly hard
bargain for his goods. The mode of living, even of the
most wealthy, was extremely simple. ‘Their houses con-
tained scarcely any furniture; and their clothes were de-
posited in a large leathern bag, generally suspended from
the roof. The chief entertainment to which our traveller
was invited consisted merely of a huge fragment of a
sheep stewed in onions, and, as usual, eaten with the
fingers,—four cups of tea ee the repast.
194 CAILLIE.
On the 23d March, M. Caillié left Jenne, near which he
embarked on the Joliba, which was there half a mile broad,
in a vessel of sixty tons burden, but of very slight construc-
tion, and bound together with cords. Such barks, impelled
without sails, and deeply laden, cannot proceed with safety
when the waters are agitated by a brisk gale; therefore
much time is consumed in the voyage. The traveller
passed first through the country of Banan, which presented
a surface flat and monotonous, but abounding in flocks and
herds. On the 2d April, the river opened into the great
lake Dibbie, here called Debo, in sailing across which, not-
withstanding its magnitude, land was lost sight of in no di-
rection except the west, where the water appeared to extend
indefinitely like an ocean. ‘Three islands, observed at dif-
ferent points, were, not very happily, named St. Charles,
Maria Theresa, and Henri, after three individuals who, the
author little suspected, would so soon be exiled from
France.
After quitting this lake, the Niger flowed through a
country thinly occupied by Foulah shepherds, and by some
tents of the rude Tuaricks. On the 19th April, he arrived ©
at Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo, consisting of a long row
of houses composed of earth and straw, extending about half
a mile on the bank of the river. The inhabitants, estimated
at about 1200, are entirely employed in lading and unlading
the numerous barks which touch at the quay..
In the evening of the 20th April, Caillié, with some com-
panions, rode from Cabra, and entered Timbuctoo, which he
calls Temboctou. He describes himself asstruck with an ex-
traordinary and joyful emotion at the view ofthis mysterious
city, so long the object of curiosity to the civilized nations of
- Europe. The scene, however, presented little of that gran-
deur and wealth with which the name has been associated.
It. comprised only,a heap of ill-built earthen houses, all
around which were spread immense plains of moving sand
of a yellowish-white colour, and parched in the extreme.
“The horizon is of a pale red,—all is gloomy in nature,—
the deepest silence reigns,—not the song of a single bird is
heard ;” yet there was something imposing in the view of a
great city, thus raised amid sands and deserts by the mere
power of commerce.
Although M. Caillié resided above a fortnight in Tim
pi eiedlicn. a +
ae PN Wh CoA is
4 ’ re i
ry we f " . ar
OT a aa
f * aa * '
CAILLIE. 195
buctoo, his information respecting it is very defective. It
_ appears, except in point of situation, to be nearly such a
city as Jenne, consisting of large houses, chiefly tenanted
by Moorish merchants, intermingled with conical straw-huts
occupied by negroes. The author has given a croquis, or
sketch of part of f the city, which, though very deficient in per-
spective, is yet so curious as to merit a place in this publi-
cation. There are seven mosques, of which the principal
one is very extensive, having three galleries, each two hun-
‘dred feet long, with a tower upwards of fifty feet high.
One part, apparently more ancient than the rest, and
almost falling into ruin, was thought to exhibit a style of
architecture decidedly superior to the more modern build-
ings..
Timbuctoo is entirely supported by commerce. It is the
depot-of the salt conveyed from the mines of Taudeny, and
also of the European goods brought by the caravans from
Morocco, as well as by those from Tunis and Tripoli, which
come by way of Ghadamis. ‘These goods are embarked for
Jenne, to be exchanged for the gold, slaves, and provisions
with which that city exclusively supplies Timbuctoo, the
neighbourhood being almost a complete desert. The popu-
lation is estimated at 10,000 or 12,000, which, not being in
proportion to a town three miles in circumference, is pro-
bably underrated. ‘The people are chiefly negroes of the
Kissour tribe, but bigoted Mohammedans. ‘There appeared
less bustle and activity than at Jenne,—a circumstance
which does not seem very easily accounted for. Osman,
the king, was an agreeable-looking negro of fifty-five, to
whom the traveller was introduced, without being aware
that he was only viceroy, or at least tributary, to the sultan
of Masina.. The country is much harassed by the wan-
dering tribe of Tauricks, who, like the Bedouins in Arabia,
levy a 2 regular tax on the caravans.*
* The map constructed by M. Jomard, upon Caillié’s routes, changes
greatly the position of Timbuctoo, especially i respect to longitude,
which it places four degrees tothe westward of the site assigned by Ma-
jor Rennel. It seems impossible, however, to admit an alteration tothis
extent, which would throw Sego so far westward as to render Park’s
bearings from Jarra to Sego, and from Sego to Bammakoo, completely
erroneous. Besides, it appears to us that M. Jomard has forced to the
westward ajl the positions between Jenne and Vimbuctoo, in a manner
quite unwarranted by M. Caillié’s own descriptions. This excess
196 CAILLIE. :
Caillié lefi Timbuctoo on the 4th May, and in six days ~
arrived at Aroan or Arouan, which he found rather a well-
built town of 3000 inhabitants, supported solely by the pas-
sage of the caravans from Barbary, and from the salt-mines
of Taudeny, which usually halt here before and after pass-
ing the desert that extends to the northwards. The envi-
rons of Aroan are of the most desolate aspect, and all its
provisions are drawn from Jenne by way of Timbuctoo,
The neighbourhood does not afford an herb or a shrub, and
the only fuel consists of the dried dung of camels. The
springs of water, which alone render it habitable, are abun-
dant, but of bad quality. The town also carries on a con-
siderable trade in light goods directly with Sansanding and
Yamina. Walet was mentioned as a great emporium, situ-
ated to the west-south-west, in a position somewhat differ-
ent from that assigned by Park ; but the data in both cases
are very vague, and we do not see the slightest ground for
M. Jomard’s conjecture that there are two Walets.
Our traveller departed from Aroan on the 19th May, in
company with a caravan of 120 camels laden with the pro-
ductions of Soudan. He had the prospect of crossing a
desert of ten days’ journey, in which there was scarcely
adrop of water. ‘ Before us appeared a horizon without
bounds, in which our eyes distinguished only an immense
plain of burning sand, enveloped by asky on fire. At this
spectacle the camels raised long cries, and the slaves
mournfully lifted their eyes to heaven.” M. Caillié, how-
ever, departed in high spirits, animated by the idea, of being
-the first European who should, from the southern side; have
becomes manifest in the line from Galia to the mouth of the Debo,
35 miles of which are stated to run north-east, without a single move-
ment in a contrary direction; yet M. Jomard has manceuvred to make
the last position the most westerly of the two. If the route from Jenne to
Timbuctoo lies as much tothe northward as M. Caillie represents, where,
indeed, he in some measure agrees with the delineation of D’Anville, it
must be somewhat farther west than our maps place it, but not nearly so
far as M. Jomard fixes it. In regard to the observation of latitude at-
tempted by the traveller, M. Jomard’s claims are indeed very moderate.
since he merely argues, that in the absence of any other, this is not
wholly to be neglected ; yet even this seems too much, when he at the
same time admits, that all the observations made by him in a similar
manner are of no value whatever. Under these circumstances, we con-
ceive that it would be premature to change, in our map, the position of
Timbuctoo from that formerly fixed by Major Rennel. _
4 es
WESTERN AFRICA. 197
crossed this ocean of shingle. But his tone of feeling was
soon lowered when he came to experience the sufferings
arising from the intense heat, the blowing of the sand, and
‘the scanty supply of water, which was allowed to the cara-
van only twice a-day leaving long intervals, during which
the most tormenting thirst was endured. Some small wells,
from which they had hoped for a little aid, were found dry ;
so that both men and animals were reduced to the last ex-
tremity, when they reached the copious springs of Telig,
and relieved their thirst by repeated draughts.
_ During many succeeding marches, water again became
scarce, and Caillié had. much to suffer from the insult and
neglect of hiscompanions. EE] Drah, on the outer frontier of
Morocco, was the first inhabited district; but it was poor,
and occupied by inhospitable tribes of Moors and Berebbers.
Turning somewhat eastward, they passed through the fine
country of Tafilet, covered with noble woods of date-trees,
and producing a valuable breed of sheep. They then crossed
with labour a rugged limb of the Atlas, and arrived at Fez,
whence the adventurer found his way, though in a some-
what poor plight, to Tangier. He arrived on the 18th
August, 1828, and M. Delaporte, the vice-consul, received
and forwarded him to France.
———EE—e
CHAPTER XIV.
Western Africa.
Tue ‘whole coast of Western Africa within the tropics,
forming a wide sweep around the Gulf of Guinea, has long
been occupied by a chain of European forts, erected with a
view to the commerce in gold, iron, and palm-oil, but above
all in slaves; and since this last object has been finally
_ abandoned by Great Britain, these stations have become to
her of very secondary importance. The territory is in the
possession of a number of petty states, many of which
compose aristocratic republics, turbulent, restless, licen-
tious, and generally ee, more depraved by their fre-
2
198 “WESTERN AFRICA.
quent intercourse with Europeans. ‘The interior country,
extending parallel to the great central chain of mountains,
of which the principal branch is here called Kong, presents
nothing of that desert and arid character which is stamped
on so great a proportion of the African continent. The
soil, copiously watered, is liable rather to an excessive
luxuriance ; but, where well managed, it is highly fruitful,
There are found, too, in this tract, several very powerful
kingdoms, better organized and more improved than any
near the coast. They have not, however, the slightest
tincture of European civilization; and their manners,-in
several important respects, are stained with habits and
practices that belong to the very lowest stage of savage life,
Of these greater states the first to which Europeans.
penetrated was Dahomey, which had distinguished itself
early in the last century by the conquest it then achieved
of the flourishing kingdom of Whidah, on the slave-coast.
The Dahomans committed the most horrible ravages that
were ever witnessed,—reducing their country, the most
fertile and beautiful then known in Western Africa, to
almost utter desolation. As the king of Dahomey con-
tinued to hold sway over this province, Mr. Norris, in 1772,
undertook a journey thither to observe the character and.
position of this extraordinary potentate, and to make
‘arrangements for the benefit of the English trade. He
passed through a fine country, abounding in the usual tro-
pical productions, and rising by a gentle ascent about 150
miles inland to Abomey, the capital. He arrived at an
appalling season, that of the annual customs, when the
great men were assembled from every quarter of the king-
dom ; and he was truly astonished to see those fierce and
warlike chieftains, whose very name spreads terror through-
out Africa, prostrating themselves before the monarch, flat
on the ground, and piling dust on their heads in token of
the most abject submission. This homage is yielded, not
from fear, but from a blind and idolatrous veneration, which
makes them regard their king in the light of a superior
being. In his name they rush to battle, and encounter
their foes with Spartan intrepidity. One of them said to
Mr. Norris, “I thank of my king, and then I dare engage
five of the enemy myself.” He added, “ My head belongs
© the.king, and not to myself; if he please to send for it, I
a
7
NORRIS—DAHOMEY. 199.
am ready to resign it ; or if it be shot through in a battle,
I am satisfied, since it is in his service.” The main object
contemplated in this national anniversary is, that the king
may water the graves of his ancestors with the blood of
human victims. These are numerous, consisting of pri-
soners taken in war, of condemned criminals, and of many
seized by lawless violence. The captives are brought out
m succession, with their arms pinioned; and a fetisheer,
laying his hand upon the devoted head, utters a few magic
words, while another from behind, with a large scimitar,
severs it from the body, when shouts of applause ascend
from the surrounding multitude. At any time when the
king has a message to convey to one of his deceased rela-
tions, he delivers it to one of his subjects, then strikes off
his head, that ke may carry it to the other world; and if
any thing farther occurs to him after he has performed this
ceremony, he delivers it to another messenger, whom he
despatches in the same manner.
Another grand object of this periodical festival is the
market for wives. All the unmarried females throughout
the kingdom are esteemed the property of the sovereign,
and are brought to the annual customs, to be placed at his
disposal. He selects for himself such as appear most beau-
tifal and engaging, and retails the others at enormous
prices to his chiefs and nobles. No choice on this occasion
is allowed to the purchaser ; in return for his twenty thou-
sand cowries, a wife is handed out, and, even be she old
and ugly, he must rest contented; nay, some, it is said,
have in mockery been presented with their own mothers.
The king usually keeps his wives up to the number of three
thousand, who serve him in various capacities,—being
partly traimed to act asa body-guard, regularly regimented,
and equipped with drums, flags, bows and arrows, while a
few carry muskets. They all reside in the palace, which
consists merely of an immense assemblage of cane and
mud tents, enclosed by a high wall. The seulls and jaw-
bones of enemies slain in battle form the favourite orna-
ment of the palaces and temples. The king’s apartment is
paved, and the walls and roof stuck over with these horrid
trophies; and if a farther supply appears desirable, he
announves to his general that “his house wants thatch,”
when a war for that purpose is immediately undertaken.
200 WESTERN AFRICA. |
Mr. M‘Leod, during his residence at Whidah, in 1803,
found the country still groaning under the cruel effects of
Dahoman tyranny. He particularly deplores the case of
Sally Abson, daughter of the late English governor by a
native female, who, trained in all European accomplish-
ments, added to them the most engaging simplicity of
manners. Suddenly, she disappeared, and Mr. M‘Leod’s
eager inquiries were met by a mysterious silence; all hung
down their heads, confused and terrified. At length an old
domestic whispered to him that a party of the king’s half-
heads (as his messengers are termed) had carried her off in
the night, to be enrolled among the number of his wives,
and warned him of the danger of uttering a word of com
laint.
‘ A more pleasing spectacle was presented to Messrs. Watt
and Winterbottom, who, in 1794, ascended the Rio Nunez
to Kakundy, and made an excursion to Foota Jallo, the
principal state of the southern Foulahs. This people pro-
fess the Mohammedan religion, are orderly and well in-
structed, display skill in working mines of iron, and in car-
rying on the manufacture of cloth, leather, and other African
fabrics. Caravans of 500 or 600 Foulahs were often met,
earrying on their heads loads of 160 pounds weight. The
article chiefly sought after is salt, which the children suck as
ours do sugar; and it is common to describe a rich man by
saying, he eats salt. The two principal towns, Laby and
Teemboo, were found to contain respectively 5000 and 7000
inhabitants. The king could muster 16,000 troops, whom,
unhappily, he employed in war, or at least hunts, against
twenty-four pagan nations that surround his territory,
chiefly with the view of procuring slaves for the market on
the coast. When the travellers represented to him the ini-
qui°y of this course, he replied, “The people with whom
we go to war never pray to God; we never go to war with
people who pray to God Almighty.” As they urged, that
in a case of common humanity this ought to make no dis-
tinction, he quoted passages from the’Koran commanding
the faithful to make war on unbelievers. They took the
liberty to insinuate that these might be interpolations of
the Devil, but found it impossible to shake his reliance on
their authenticity. o), we a
A more recent and memorable intercourse was that opened
we
ASHANTEE. 201
with the court of Ashantee. This people were first mene
tioned, in the beginning of last century, under the name
of Assente or Asienti, and as constituting a great kingdom
in the interior,—the same that was described to Mr. Lucas,
at Tripoli, as the ultimate destination of those caravans
which, proceeding from that city, measure the breadth of
Africa. -Being separated from the maritime districts, how-
ever, by Aquamboc, Dinkira, and other powerful states, they
did not come inro contact with any European settlement,
It was not, indeed, till the commencement of this century
that these states were obliged to give way before the grow-
ing strength of the Ashantee empire, which at length ex-
tended to the borders of the Fantees, the principal people
on the Gold Coast. These last were ill fitted to cope with
such formidable neighbours. They are a turbulent, rest-
less tribe, and extremely prompt in giving offence, but in
battle they are equally cowardly and undisciplined. The
king of Ashantee having, not unwillingly perhaps, re-
ceived from them high provocation, sent, in 1808, an army
of 15,000 warriors, which entered their territory, and laid
- it waste with fire and sword. At length they came to
Anamaboe, where the Fantees had assembled a force of
9000 men; but these were routed at the first onset, and
~ to death, except a few who sought the protection of the
ritish fort. The victors, then considering the British as
allies of their enemy, turned their arms against the station,
at that time defended by not more than twelve men. Yet
this gallant little band, supported by slender bulwarks,
completely baffled the fierce and repeated assaults made by
this barbarous host, who were repulsed with considerable
slaughter. Seized with admiration and respect for British
prowess, the Ashantees now made proposals for a negotia-
tion, which were accepted, and mutual visits were paid
and returned. The English officers were peculiarly struck
with the splendid array, the dignified and courteous man-
ners, and even the just moral feeling, displayed by these
warlike strangers. They, on their side, expressed an
ardent desire to open a communication with the sea and
with the British, complaining that the turbulent Fantees
opposed the only obstacle to so desirable a purpose. A
treaty was concluded, and a thoroughly good understanding
seemed established between the two nations. The Ashan-
202 WESTERN AFRICA.
tees, however, made several successful incursions in 1811
and 1816; and on the last occasion the Fantees were
obliged to own their supremacy, and engage to pay an
annual tribute. The British government judiciously kept
aloof from these feuds; but in 1817 a mission was sent,
under Messrs. James, Bowdich, and Hutchinson, to visit the
capital of that powerful kingdom, and to adjust some trifling
dissensions which had unavoidably arisen.
The mission having set out on the 22d April, 1817, passed
Over a country covered, in a great measure, with immense
and overgrown woods, through which a footpath had with
difficulty been cut, though in some parts it presented the
most beautiful scenery. “Being delayed by Mr. James’s ill-
ness, they did not arrive at Coomassie, the capital, till the
19th May, when they were surprised at its unexpected
splendour. _ It was four miles in circumference, built not in-
deed with European elegance, but in a style considerably
superior to any of the maritime towns. The houses, though
low, and constructed only of wood, were profusely covered
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BOWDICH——ASHAN FEE. 203
with ornament and sculpture. The array of the caboceers,
or great war-chiefs, was at once brilliant, dazzling, and wild.
They were loaded with fine cloths, in which variously-
coloured threads of the richest foreign silks were curiously
interwoven; ‘and both themselves and their horses were co-
vered with decorations of gold beads, Moorish charms, or
-amulets, purchased at a high price, and the whole inter-
mingled with strings of human teeth and bones. Leopards’
skins, red shells, elephants’ tails, eagle and ostrich feathers,
and brass bells were among the favourite ornaments. On
being introduced to the king, the English found all these
embellishments crowded and concentrated on his own per-
son and that of his attendants, who were literally oppressed.
with large masses of solid gold. Even the most common
utensils were composed of that metal. At the same time,
the executioner, with his hatchet on his breast, and the ex-
ecution-stool clotted with blood, gave a thoroughly savage
character to all this pomp. The manners of the king, how-
ever, were marked by a dignified courtesy ; he received the
’ strangers cordially, and desired them to come and speak their
palaver in the market-place. On the presents being carried
to the palace, he expressed high satisfaction, as well as
great admiration of the English workmanship. After seve-
ral other interviews, he entered on the subjects under dis-
cussion, which related to some annual payments formerly
made to the F’antees for permission to erect forts, as well as
‘for the ground on which they stood; and the king now de-
manded, as conqueror of the country, that these payments
should be transferred to himself. The claim was small, and
seems, according to African ideas, to have been reasonable ;
but Mr. James thought himself bound to remain intrenched’
in the rules of European diplomacy, and simply replied, that
he would state the demand to the governor of Cape Coast.
The king then told them that he expected they had come to
settle all palavers, and to stay and be friends with him ; but
now he found that their object was to make a fool of him.
Considering himself insulted, he broke through the ceremo-
nious politeness which he had before studiously maintained.
He called out,‘* The white men join with the Fantees to cheat
me, to put shame upon my face.” Mr. James having re-
mained firm, the king became more incensed, and exclaimed,
‘““The English come to cheat me; they come to spy the
204 WESTERN AFRICA.
country ; they want war, they want war!” Mr. James
merely replied, “No; we want trade ;” but the monarch’s
wrath increased to such a degree, that he started from his
seat, and bit his beard, calling out, ‘* Shantee foo! Shantee
foo !” and added, “If a black man had brought me this mes-
sage, I would have had his head cut off before me.” A sin«
manceuvre now took place in the diplomatic party.
Mr. Bowdich, with two junior members, conceiving that
Mr. James’s too rigid adherence to rule was endangering
the preservation of peace with this powerful sovereign, re-
solved to supersede him, and undertake the charge of the
negotiation. ‘They conducted it entirely to the satisfaction
of his Ashantee majesty, who concluded a treaty with the
‘English, and even made a proposal of sending two of his
sons to be educated at Cape Coast Castle.
During their stay at Coomassie, the commissioners wit-
nessed dreadful scenes, which seem to sink the Ashantee
character even below the ordinary level of savage life. The
customs, or human sacrifices, are practised on a scale still
more tremendous than at Dahomey. ‘The king had lately
sacrificed on the grave of his mother 3000 victims, 2000 of
whom were Fantee prisoners ; and at the death of the late
sovereign the sacrifice was continued weekly for three
months, consisting each time of two hundred slaves. The
absurd belief here entertained that the rank of the deceased
in the future world is decided by the train which he carries
along with him, makes filial piety interested in promoting
by this means the exaltation of a departed parent. On
these occasions, the caboceers and princes, in order to court
royal favour, often rush out, seize the first person they meet,
arid drag him in for sacrifice. While the customs last,
therefore, it is with trembling steps that any one crosses
his threshold ; and when compelled to do so, he rushes along
with the utmost speed, dreading every instant the murder- ~
dus grasp which would consign him to death. io ofa
To cultivate the good understanding now established, the
British government very judiciously sent out M. Dupuis,
who, during his residence as consul at Mogadore, had ac-
quired a great knowledge of Africa and its people. But,
before his arrival, the ardour of their mutual affection had
been cooled by the intervention of some clouds, which he
had set out in the hope of dispelling. This mission, which
_ DUPUIS—ASHANTEE. * o2Os
| atrived at Coomassie early in 1820, was well conducted,
‘and succeeded in its object. The king renewed, in the
- most ample measure, his professions of desire to cultivate
* a friendly intercourse with the British nation ; withdrew
such of his demands as were shown to be inadmissible ;
ad while he claimed full dominion over the coast, agreed
that the English should exercise jurisdiction within, and
even in the immediate vicinity of their own forts.
M. Dupuis found this monarch deeply impressed with
respect for white men, and also with a desire tu imitate
und rival the pomp of European kings. He was erecting
a palace, the outside of which consisted only of large logs of
timber; but the interior was to be adorned with brass,
ivory, and gold. He said, “‘ Now white men know me, I
must live in a great house as white kings do; then I shall
not be ashamed when white people come ;”—and on an-
other occasion, “I must have every thing suitable, and live
like a white king.” He had procured architects from EI-
mina to give instructions to his own subjects, who, how-
ever, performed the task in so awkward a manner, that he »
himself laughed at them, exclaiming, “Ashantees fools
at work.” But the want of skill was compensated by their
numbers; and while engaged at work, they suggested to
M. Dupuis the singular image of a legion a devils attempt-
ing to construct:a tower of Babel.
The envoy had the unhappiness of being resident during
the ‘ Little Adai Custom,” as it was called, and under-
stood that m one day upwards of seventy victims had been
sacrificed in the palace alone. He was not present; but
waiting on the king immediately after, saw his clothes
stained with blood, the royal death-stool yet reeking, va-
rious amulets steeped in gore, while a spot on the brow of
his majesty and his principal chiefs indicated the work in
which they had been engaged.
The government of Cape Coast Castle unfortunately did
not ratify the treaty concluded by M. Dupuis, but under-
took to support the Fantees in an attempt to throw off the
Ashantee yoke. ‘They were thus involved in hostilities
with the latter people, whose sovereign, in January, 1824,
entered Fantee with a force of 15,000 men. Sir Charles
'M‘Carthy, newly appointed governor, being ill-informed
«8 to the strength of the, si“ marched out to meet him
K
s
206 © _ | WESTERN AFRICA.
.
with a force of scarcely a thousand British, supported by a
crowd of cowardly and undisciplined auxiliaries. The two
armies met near the boundary stream of the Bossompra,
where the English, soon deserted by their native allies in
whose cause they had taken the field, maintained the con-
test for some time with characteristic valour, till it was
discovered, that through the negligence of the ordnance-
keeper, the supply of powder was entirely exhausted.
_ Thus deprived of the use of firearms, they were surrounded
by the immensely superior numbers of a warlike and des-
perate enemy, and after a fearful contest, the particulars of
which never fully transpired, the whole army either pe-
rished on the field, or underwent the more cruel fate of
captivity in the hands of this merciless foe. Only three
officers, all of whom were wounded, brought the dreadful
tale to Cape Coast Castle. The Ashantees then overran
the whole open country, laid siege to the castle, and pressed
it closely for some months. Being repeatedly checked,
however, and suffering under sickness and want of provi-
sions, they retreated into their own country; nor has the
king, distracted by the rebellion of some neighbouring
states, ever since attempted to march down upon the coast.
Captain Adams, in the course of a trading voyage along
the African shore, visited Benin, the capital of which is
situated on a river coming from the north-east. The city is
large, apparently containing about 15,000 inhabitants, and
surrounded by a country extremely fertile, but not highly
cultivated. The king of Benin is Fetiche,—worshipped by
his subjects as a god, and must not on any account be sup-
posed either to eat or sleep. Heresy against this creed is
punished in the most prompt and summary manner, by
instantly striking off the head of the unbeliever. With all
his divine and royal attributes, however, the king does not
disdain the occupation of a merchant, and drives a hard bar-
gain while exchanging slaves and ivory for tobaeco, which
is a favourite luxury in this part of Africa. He is very ac-
cessible to strangers, provided they spread before him as a
present a handsome piece of red silk damask. Human sa-
crifices are not practised to the same dreadful extent as in
~ some other parts of Africa ; yet a considerable number are
offered on the graves of their great men, and four annually
at the mouth of the river, as an amulet to attract vessels
SOUTHERN AFRICA. 207
but such is the pestilential character of the climate, that
this bloody charm brings now comparatively few slave-mer-
chants to Benin. .
Captain Adams ascended also to Waree, an insular terri-
tory, enclosed by two branches of another stream flowing
through this alluvial district. It is beautiful as well as fer-
tile, is about five miles in circuit, and appears as if it had
dropped down from the clouds; for all the surrounding
shores consist of an impenetrable forest, rising out of a
swamp. [Even in the dry season the water stands on the
ground a foot in depth, producing exhalations which prove
_ excessively destructive to the European constitution, as well
as to all the more delicate plants and animals that happen
to be removed from the drier soils of the interior, In other
respects, this intelligent navigator did not make any mate-
rial addition to the knowledge of Western Africa previously
derived from other sources.
CHAPTER XV.
Southern and Eastern Africa.
Tue southern extremity of Africa has long attracted the
particular attention of modern navigators. To pass this
mighty cape formed the main object of ambition with the
Portuguese in their celebraled voyages of discovery along
the African coast. After almost a century had been spent
in successive endeavours to accomplish that undertaking,
Diaz obtained a view of this great promontory ; but the
stormy sky in which it was enveloped, and the fearful swell
produced by the conflict of the contending oceans, appalled
even that stout navigator. He named it the Cape of Tem-
eo and immediately returned with his shattered barks to
ortugal. The king, with a bolder spirit, substituted forth-
with the name of Cape of Good Hope, which it has ever
since retained; yet some years elapsed before the daring
eails of Gama rounded this formidable barrier, and bore
across the ocean to the golden shores of India.
The Portuguese, engrossed by the discovery and conquest
!
208 SOUTHERN AFRICA. :
of the kingdoms of the East, and busied in lading their ves-
sels with the produce of those vast and opulent regions,
scarcely deigned to cast an eye on the rude border of South-
ern Africa, its terraces of granite, its naked Karroo plains,
or the filthy and miserable kraals of the Hottentot. ‘Their
_ fleets, indeed, stopped occasionally for water and refresh-
ments; but no attempts were made to occupy, and still less
to colonize, this barren and unpromising country.
The Dutch, a prudent and calculating people, having .
pushed their way into the Indian seas, where they first
rivalled and then supplanted the Portuguese, were notlong —
in discovering the important advantage that might be de-
rived from the Cape as a naval station. In 1650, they
founded Cape Town,—a step which led to farther improve-
ment; for it thereby became necessary that supplies of grain
and provisions should be drawn from the surrounding coun-
try. When, moreover, it was discovered that on some
neighbouring hills the vine could be reared in high perfec-
tion, a new value was stamped upon the settlement. The
natives, not then destitute of bravery, but ill-armed, undis-
ciplined, and disunited, were easily driven back by the colo-
nists, or reduced to an almost complete and hopeless bond:
age; and hence the country, for several hundred miles in
every direction, so far as it afforded any herbage, was soon
covered with extensive grazing farms under Dutch masters.
Peter Kolben, who resided some years at the Cape, pub-
lished a narrative, which, though it be liable toa few excep-
tions, gives us by far the fullest account of the Hottentots, _
before that race was completely weighed down by Euro-
pean oppression. This unfortunate tribe has become noted
and almost proverbial for presenting man in his lowest es-
tate, and under the closest alliance with the imferior orders
of creation. It must, indeed, be admitted, that they take.
particular pains to render their external appearance the
most hideous that the human body can possibly present.
Grease is poured over their persons in copious streams,
which, being exposed to the perpetual action of smoke, forms
on their skin a black and shining cake, through which the
native colour, a yellowish brown, is scarcely ever percepti-
ble. Grease in Africa forms the chief distinction of rank,—
the rich besmearing themselves with fresh butter, while the
poorer classes are obliged to tear the fa. from the bowels cf
cd
KOLBEN. 209
slaughtered animals. They assign as a reason for this sin-
gular practice an effect which has been readily admitted by
judicious travellers, namely, that such a coating has in this
climate a most salutary influence in defending them from
the rays of the sun, and in averting many cutaneous dis-
orders. Nature seems to have aided the task of disfiguring
them, by covering the head with irregular tufts of hard and
coarse hair, and causing sugfular prominences, composed
of fat, to jut out in parts e they are least ornamental.
Nor do their habits of life present any thing to redeem this
outward deformity. Their kraals consist of a confused
erowd of little conical hovels, composed of twigs and earth,
in which large families sit and sleep, without having room
to stand upright. The fire in the middle fills these man-
sions with thick smoke, the floors of which are deeply co-
vered with every species of filth. At festivals, when an ox
or a sheep is killed, the Hottentots rip open the belly, tear
out the entrails, which they throw on the coals, and feast on
them before the animal is completely dead. Yet they are a
friendly, merry, hospitable race, living together in the great-
est affection and harmony. The sluggish and senseless .
stupidity with which they have been so generally taxed,
seems to have been in a great measure produced by their
degrading subjection to the Dutch boors. In their free
state they had a republican form of polity, and konquers or
captains of the kraal, who led them to war, which they car-
ried on with extreme fury. This commander usually soundeda
pipe or flageolet, during which his men fought without in-
termission ; but as soon as the music ceased they began to
retreat. The Hottentots direct their darts and throwing-
sticks with a sure aim, surround and attack wild animals
with skill.and vigour, and evade their springs with a dexte-
rity which no European can equal. They tan, dress, and
shape skins ; make mats of flags and bulrushes; also twist
strings for their bows out of. the sinews of animals; and
even mould iron into cutting instruments with considerable
expertness. In their free and happy state, they displayed
the same passion for the dance and song which is general
throughout Africa. A heavy reproach les upon this race,
as being destitute of all ideas of religion; and the atheist
has even boasted of them as an exception to that universal be-
lief of mankind, which is ingot against his unnatural tenet.
—
-
210 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
Supposing this assertion correct, such ignorance, which
roust have sprung from profound and stupid apathy, could
not form any high authority on a subject so abstruse. But
the fact itself, as in every similar case, has vanished before
the light of more accurate observation. The Hottentot had
neither temples, images, nor the pomp of a regular priest-
hood ; but he believed in a supreme good Being, whom ‘he
viewed with distant adorationgigud also in a little deformed
and malignant power, —— sought to pacify by gifts
and sacrifices. He had the usual superstitions of unen-
lightened men, hailing the new and full moon not only by
offerings, but by shouts, cries, and dances, prolonged
throughout the night. He attached a sacred character to
certain woods, hills, and rivers, which he supposed haunted
by departed friends or by the spirits of the ancient heroes
of his tribe. Lastly, to come to the very lowest, the Hot-
tentots had a little shining beetle which they had exalted
almost into a deity.
About the close of the last century, Southern Africa ex-
cited a particular interest among the lovers of natural his-
tory, from the brilliancy of its floral productions, and from
those remarkable forms of the animal kingdom, which,
though generally diffused over that continent, could be
most safely and easily studied in the vicinity of the Cape.
In 1778, Captain Henry Hope, who, under the authority
of the Dutch government, had penetrated into the interior
of the colony with a caravan of eighty-nine persons, pub-
lished at Amsterdam a work containing plates of the giraffe
or camelopard, the zebra, the hippopotamus, the gnu, and
other animals then almost’ unknown in Europe. Soon
after, the whole region was carefully surveyed by two emi-
nent naturalists, first Sparrman, and then Le Vaillant,—
the one distinguished by sound sense and accurate observa-
tion, the other by the splendid colouring which he suc-
ceeded in throwing over the narrative of his personal ad-
ventures. These travellers viewed with admiration the
elegant forms of the giraffe and the zebra, the light shape
and bright eye of the spring-bok, the most beautiful of an-
telopes, and of which herds were seen covering these de-
sert plains as far as the eye could reach. They were
struck also with the odd shapes of the gnu and the quagga,
combining as it were, the most opposite natures. Sparr-
- BARROW. 211
man’s hunts were not very successful: he gave chase re-
peatedly to the gnu; but that animal, by its swift bounds,
eluded pursuit. Herds of zebras were seen only at a dis-
tance; and of all the hippopotami which he attacked, he
could carry off only one, three weeks old. He made a full
examination, however, of the rhinoceros and the quagga,
and brought to Europe the first precise account of that
wonderful and destructive insect, the termes or white ant.
Le Vaillant, more fortunate, conveyed to France the skin
of the giraffe, as well as that of a full-grown hippopo-
tamus. He brought also a rich collection of birds, and
many specimens of those beautiful and flowering shrubs
which spring up only amid the sands of the African desert.
Mr. Barrow, who, in 1797, while private secretary to
Lord Macartney, made a tour through the Cape territory,
communicated more important: information than any of his
predecessors, and exhibited for the first time a view of the
social condition of this remote colony. He found the Hot-
tentots reduced almost universally to the condition of
slaves, not transferable indeed, but attached to the soil, and
not on that account the better treated. Frequent use is’
made of a heavy leathern thong, the lashes inflicted with
which are measured not by number but time. Connecting
this punishment with his favourite luxury, the Dutchman
orders the flogging of the culprit to continue while he him-
self smokes acertain number of pipes. Even when a Hot-
tentot engages for hire, the children born during this pe-
riod of service are destined to become slaves. Nothing, in
short, can more fully prove the cruel treatment of this un-
fortunate race, than the fact, that they do not Keep up their
numbers, but are gradually disappearing: at present there
are not supposed to be more than 15,000 in the colony.
The few kraals of independent Hottentots, which still re-
main on its outer border, may perhaps amount to 10,000.
The Dutch planters or boors occupy lots of considerable
extent, reaching usually to the extent of some miles in
every direction ; yet the nearest neighbours are engaged in
almost constant feuds respecting the boundaries of these
vast possessions. Their dissensions must doubtless be
greatly fomented by the mode of measuring land according
to the number of steps employed in walking overit. There
is indeed an official pacer ( felt-wagt-meester), who receives
212 - SOUTHERN AFRICA
three dollars for every perambulation ; but this survey must
always be more or less vague; and he is alleged sometimes
to take partial steps in support of a favourite claimant.
The boor, absolute master of these wide domains, covers
them with flocks and herds, the care of which he commits
to his Hottentots,—obtaining thus the entire disposal of his
own time, which he devotes to the most listless indolence.
He makes neither milk nor butter; nor does he produce
either wine, fruits, or vegetables. The pipe never quits
his mouth, except to take his sopie or glass of brandy, and
to eat three meals of mutton soaked in the fat of the
large-tailed sheep, without vegetables or even bread. The
good lady of the house, equally disdainful of toil, remains
almost as immoveable as the chair on which she sits, hav-
ing before her a table, always covered with hot coffee. The
daughters sit round with their hands folded, resembling ar-
ticles of furniture rather than youthful and living beings.
No diversion, no event, breaks the monotony of this insu-
lated existence ; nor does knowledge for them ever “ unrol
her ample page.” A schoolmaster, indeed, usually forms
part of the establishment; but~-as it is thought too much to
maintain one for teaching only, he is expected to make
himself useful in sundry other capacities. Mr. Barrow
even saw one of this learned fraternity yoked in a plough.
Amid such varied avocations, these sage instructers cannot
be expected to convey to their pupils more than the mere
elements of reading and writing. At the same time, hospi-
tality knows scarcely any limits. With the exception of
their nearest neighbours, with whom they are probably in-
volved in boundary feuds, any person, from any quarter, is
welcome. The stranger opens the door, shakes hands
with the master, kisses the mistress, sits down, and makes
himself completely at home.
From Graaf-Reynet, at the eastern extremity of the co-
lony, Mr. Barrow pushed forward without delay to the
country of the Caffres, it being one main object of his journey
to adjust some differences between that people and the Eu-
ropean settlers. The first party he met after pessiaeeer
boundary made the most favourable impression upon him
The females flocked and danced round the strangers, show-
ing the utmost curiosity, and receiving with delight pre-
gents of tobacco and brass buttons, yet never trespassing
‘
BARROW. 213
on the limits of decorum. Their persons were somewhat
short and stunted, and the skin of a dark glossy brown ;
but the features were almost European, and their dark
sparkling eyes bespoke vivacity and intelligence. The
men, again, were the finest figures that the traveller had
ever seen, considerably above the ‘middle size, robust, and
muscular, yet marked with the most elegant symmetry.
Their deportment was easy, and their expression frank,
generous, and fearless. In reply to the complaints which
were made of their encroachments upon the territory of the
colony, they asserted, and seemed to prove, that much
greater encroachments had been made by the colonists
themselves, and expressed their readiness to accede to any
arrangement which might obviate future dissension,—stat-
ing, however, that nothing could be done but through Gaika,
the great king of the Cafires. The umpires immediately
proceeded towards his residence, through a beautiful, but
uncultivated, and somewhat entangled country. He was
absent at the moment, employed in pursuing a band of
wolvés; but his wife and mother, with fifty or sixty at-
tendants, sat round the strangers, and conversed, through
an interpreter, in the most agreeable manner. At length
the monarch was seen approaching at full gallop, mounted
on a handsome ox. Alighting from this singular charger,
he graciously welcomed the strangers, and seating himself
and his attendants under the shade of a mimosa, imme-
diately entered upon business. He showed himself ex-
tremely reasonable in every respect, declaring, that what-
ever inroads had taken place on the frontier were without
his knowledge or sanction, and he agreed_at once to a code
of regulations which might put an end to future aggression.
It seems probable, indeed, that had the wise and conciliato
measures which Mr. Barrow suggested been steadily m4
hered to, all collision might have been avoided with this
manly and warlike race.
The Caffres are perhaps the most completely pastoral
people in existence. Their agriculture is very limited,
owing to their roaming mode of life. Game is scarce, and
they make no use of their extensive line of seacoast for
fishing; but the management of cattle is thoroughly un-
derstood, being carried on by the men, who not only tend
but milk the cows, and who, by a particular modulation of
214 SOUTHERN AFRICA. ‘
the voice, send out a herd to graze, or recall it at pleasure
to the enclosures. A cow is never killed but on high occa-
sions, milk, with roots, forming their standard diet. Skill
is shown in several arts, such as making baskets of grass,
sharpening iron by stones, without being able to smelt it,
and dressing calf-skins for their apparel. Polygamy is
lawful ; but as a wife costs an ox, or two cows, the practice
is confined to the rich.
After returning to Graaf-Reynet, Mr. Barrow passed across
the Great Karroo, or desert, covered with scanty and useless
vegetation, yet presenting spring-boks, ostriches, and other
wild animals, which roam in large herds, and the most
beautiful flowers, which spring up amid the sand. Hethen
came to the borders of the Sneuwberg, or Snowy Moun-
tains, the streams from which cover an extensive district
with luxuriant herbage. ‘The colonists there are kept in a
state of greater activity than elsewhere, by the dread of
wild beasts, and of the still wilder race of Bosjesman Hot-
tentots, whose kraals occupy the intermediate valleys.
They pursue and hunt down these unhappy creatures, as
if they were the natural enemies of the human race. Mr.
Barrow mentions a young fellow who had made a journey
along part of that mountain-range ; and on his return, being
asked if he had seen many Bosjesmans, replied, with a
disappointed air, that he hadonly shot four. These savages,
in their turn, carry off all the cattle they can find, and put
to a cruel death every one who falls into their hands, whe-
ther he be Dutch or Hottentot.. Each party throws upon
the other the blame of this mutual hostility. Mr. Barrow
took some pains to acquire information respecting that un-
fortunate race. His party having succeeded in surprising a
kraal, the natives sprung out of their little mat-huts with
cries resembling the war-whoop of savages, and flew to the
top of a neighbouring hill. From inveterate habit it was
impossible to prevent some bloodshed; but at length, by
persevering kindness, several were induced to come for-
ward and hold: communication with the English. They
proved to be the ugliest of human beings. . Their hollow
backs, projecting bellies, and prominent posteriors, caused
the body to assume nearly the form of the letter S, which,
though by some painters described as constituting the line
of beauty, produces, in its application to the human shape,
TRUTTER AND SOMERVILLE. 215
an effect very strikingly the reverse. In their condition,
too, they are, of all rational beings, perhaps the most for-
lorn and wretched. Their only mode of obtaining food is by
scrambling over the rocks after wild animals, digging the
earth for some unsavoury roots, devouring the larve of
ants and locusts, and, finally, in wild foray, carrying off
the cattle from the adjoining plains. Yet the habits arising
from this precarious subsistence create a degree of energy
which does not arise when man slumbers in the lap of ease
and abundance. Hence, this people indulge even in an ex-
travagant gayety, which forms a striking contrast to the
gloomy dejection of the enslaved Hottentots. On moon-
light nights they dance without intermission from sunset
till dawn ; and, on the prospect of fine weather, sometimes
continue this exercise for several days and nights. Their
little arrows, tipped with poison, are shot with surprising dex-
terity ; and the warriors bound from rock to rock with an
agility which baffles all European pursuit. They endure long
fasts, which render their bodies usually very lank and meager ;
but when they make a capture of cattle or sheep, they
devour the flesh in a disgusting manner, and in the most
amazing quantities. Mr. Barrow having given to three of
them a sheep about five in the evening, saw it entirely con-
sumed by twelve next day, when their formerly lank, lean
bellies were distended to an extraordinary size. The pic-
tures of animals, drawn on the rocks with no inconsiderable
spirit and correctness, showed at least the rudiments of art
and talent. |
The knowledge of Europeans respecting the Cape terri-
tory had hitherto been confined by the Karroo Desert, and
the formidable range of the Sneuwberg beyond it. In
1801, a scarcity of cattle being felt, Messrs. Trutter and
Somerville undertook an expedition, with the view of ob-
taining a supply in some of the more remote districts.
Having passed the Snow mountain and the country of the
Bosjesmans, they came to the Orange river, a broad stream
flowing westward to the Atlantic, and on the banks of which
were the Koras or Koranas, a pastoral people with numerous
herds. The information here received induced them to
. proceed into the country of the Boshuanas, which continued
to ymprove as they advanced, till, to their utter surprise, in
the midst of these savage wildernessés of Southern Africa,
216 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
they found a regular city. Lattakoo was composed of two
or three thousand houses, neatly and commodiously built,
well enclosed and shaded from the sun by spreading
branches of the mimosa. The country around was not
only covered with numerous herds, but showed considerable
signs of cultivation. The king, a venerable old man, in-
vited them to his house, and introduced them to his two
wives. The travellers met every where a kind and hos-
pitable reception, and were the objects of an eager but
friendly curiosity. Their report, in fact, encouraged the
idea that the golden age had once more revived in the
centre of Africa.
The Cape government afterward undertook to follow up
this discovery. Lord Caledon sent Dr. Cowan and Lieu-
tenant Denovan, at the head ofa party of twenty men, with
instructions to strike across the continent in a south-eastern
direction, and by endeavouring to reach Mozambique, to
connect the two great points of African geography. The
travellers passed Lattakoo, and accounts were received
from them nearly eleven days’ journey beyond it, when they
were in the midst of a richer and more beautiful country
than they had yet seen in Southern Africa. A long and
anxious interval had elapsed, when the governor sent a fast-
sailing vessel to Sofala and Mozambique, the captain of
which was informed that the expedition had come to a most
disastrous issue. It was stated that the party, having ar-
rived in the dominions of the king of Zaire, between Inham-
bane and Sofala, had been attacked in the night, and all cut
to pieces, with the exception of two individuals. Mr.
Campbell was afterward assured, that the catastrophe had
taken place among the Wanketzens, a nation immediately
beyond Lattakoo, “where the travellers, trusting to the.
friendly behaviour and professions of the people, had ne- -
glected the most common precautions. The officers went
to bathe, leaving one party in charge of the wagons, and
another to guard the cattle. Thus split into three divisions,
they were successively attacked and destroyed fp the trea
cherous barbarians.
Dr. Henry Lichtenstein, after surveying several of ‘the
Cape districts, extended his journey to the territory of this
newly-discovered people, accompanied by one of the natives,
named Kok, who had been for some time absent from his .
/
LICHTENSTEIN. S17
country. The first party whom they met accosted them
with such demonstrations of kindness and cordiality, as
impressed our traveller with the most favourable opinion
» of their character, and relieved some apprehensions under
which he had laboured. ‘The inhabitants, too, of the first
village at which they arrived received them in a manner
quite frank and hospitable, though they showed rather an
excessive eagerness to obtain a supply of tobacco. Cross-
ing the river Kuruhman, and proceeding by a winding path
through a noble forest, they reached Lattakoo. The cu-
riosity excited by their arrival soon attracted a crowd so
immense, as to make it impossible for the wagons to pro-
ceed; but still the multitude appeared to be animated by
the most friendly sentiments. The venerable old king next
appeared, and promised to pay them an early visit. Ona
pipe of tobacco being presented, he began to inhale the
smoke by large drafts, and after being satisfied, handed it
to his prime minister, who transmitted it to the next in dig-
nity; thus it passed from mouth to mouth, till it reached
the lowest of the attendants. The king afterward intro-
duced the Doctor to his two wives, of whom the principal
one, Makaitshoah, dazzled him by the beauty which had
raised her from a low degree to the station that she now
occupied. She was loaded with a profusion of African
finery,—a mantle trimmed with rich furs, and fastened to
the shoulder by a bundle of cats’ tails, sundry necklaces of
bone, copper, and coral, and on one arm no less than
seventy-two copper rings, on which she seemed to set the
highest value ; she displayed, and saw them counted with
peculiar delight. The ladies paid a very long visit, but
showed little regard for tea, which was at first presented as
most suitable to their rank and sex; while wine, and more
especially brandy, were highly relished by them. In the.
course of a long conversation, the lot of European wives,
in having each a husband to herself, became, as usual, the
favourite theme ; but Makaitshoah, though she approved
of the system in general, thought that in Africa, where
the waste of war was so great, polygamy, to a certain ex-
tent, was necessary to keep up the numbers of the nation.
Dr. Lichtenstein had intended to proceed considerably
farther into the interior ; but his views were changed, by a
preposal earnestly pressed ‘i him by the king to accom-
218 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
pany, and assist with his firearms, an expedition whieh
his majesty was about to undertake against his neighbour
Makkrakka. Finding that he could not remain without in-
volving himself in the deadly feuds of these African chints,
he chose rather to return to the colony.
Mr. John Campbell, animated by the benevolent al
of imparting to this people the blessings of true religion,
undertook, in 1813, a mission into Southern Africa. Pass-
ing the Sneuwherg i in the same direction that had been fol-
lowed by Messrs. Trutter and Somerville, he reached Lat-
takoo, which, by a change not unusual in Africa, had been
moved about sixty miles to the southward of its original
situation ; but the new city had not yet attained more than
half the dimensions of the old. His reception was at first
marked by a peculiar caution and jealousy. Not a sound
was heard im the city; and he walked through empty
streets till he came to the great square in front of the palace,
where several hundred men were drawn up armed and in
battle array. All this precaution was found to have been
suggested by the fear that he and his companions were sent
to avenge the death of Dr. Cowan and Mr. Denovan; but
no sooner were the inhabitants satisfied that he came with
no commission from government, and with no hostile object,
than they crowded round him with their usual frankness,
and eagerly begged for tobacco. Soon after, Mateebe, the
king, entered with a numerous train of attendants, bearing
spears tipped with ostrich feathers. He did not, in pass-
ing, take any notice of the English strangers, but imme-
diately after admitted them to an interview, though without
giving them quite so gracious a reception as they could
have wished. He particularly demurred to the proposal
of founding a mission at Lattakoo, on the ground or pre-
tence that it would interfere with the tending of their cattle _
and other occupations ; but this being Mr. Campbell’s fa-
vourite object, he pressed it so eamestly, and represented,
in such flattering terms, the superior wealth and industry
of Europeans, that Mateebe at length gave his consent to
the establishment of missionaries, and promised to treat
them well.
Mr. Campbell’s observations finally dissipated all that yet
remained of the original illusion, which had represented
this people as enjoying at once the innocence and the
‘
_ CAMPBELL. 219
felicity of the primitive ages. There was, indeed, as not un-
frequently happens in uncivilized life, a courteous, kind,
-and friendly spirit towards one another. But between
neighbouring tribes the enmity is as deadly, and the laws
and practices of war as barbarous, as among the rudest of
African hordes. The missionary, with the view of paving
the way for religious. instruction, having asked one of them
_ ‘what was the chief end of man, received an immediate an-
swer, ‘“ For commandos,”—the term by which they express
their raids or forays undertaken for the purpose of stealing
cattle. With the profit of carrying off the herds, they seek
also to combine the glory of killing the warriors to whom
they belong. The number of men whom they have slain
forms their chief boast ; in which estimate they reckon one
white equal to two blacks.
In 1820, Mr. Campbell, supported by the Missionary So-
ciety, undertook another journey into this district of Africa.
He found the Christian establishment at Lattakoo in a
somewhat flourishing state. There was a chapel capable
of containing about 400 persons, and a row of good houses
with gardens for the missionaries. But the friendly con-
duct of the natives towards that body had not been accom-
panied with any disposition to embrace, or even to listen to
their doctrines. ‘The Boshuanas, more perhaps than any
other barbarians, seem to labour under a peculiar thraldom
to the senses, and an utter disregard for all lofty and spi-
ritual ideas. Beads for ornament, cattle for use, com-
mandos or forays for the display of valour and activity, ab-
sorb their whole attention, and leave no room for any
higher objects. ‘The number assembled to see the mis-
sionaries dine was three times greater than could ever be
induced to convene to hear them preach.
At Lattakoo Mr. Campbell met Kossie, king or chief of
Mashow, and obtained permission to visit him, which,
though expressed in rather cold and haughty terms, his zeal
_ induced him to embrace. ‘The road lay through a delight-
ful country, consisting neither, like most parts of the Cape
territory, of a naked desert, nor, like some others, of an im-
penetrable forest, but of a boundless meadow of luxuriant
pasture, interspersed with numerous clumps of trees, .ap-
pearing at a distance like a continued wood, but gradually
opening as he approached hese fertile plains ane
220 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
tenanted only by a few roving Bushmen; for ‘so incessant
and destructive are the wars carried on, even among the
Boshuanas themselves, that they are obliged to concentrate
in the immediate vicinity of their towns. Of these, the first
they came to was Meribohwey, the capital of a chief named
Tammahoo, where the warriors rushed forth to meet them
dressed in the skins of wild beasts, painted red, and furi-
ously brandishing their spears and battle-axes,—rather an
astounding welcome to the worthy missionaries, though it
was found to be all meant in kindness. They came next
to Mashow, beautifully situated on a hill surrounded by a
number of lesser eminences. Within a circuit of twenty
miles there were twenty-nine villages, with an almost un-
interrupted cultivation. 'The inhabitants are estimated at
10,000 or 12,000, and their houses and modes of life are
somewhat superior to those of Lattakoo.
From Mashow Mr. Campbell passed through a country -
continually improving in richness and beauty, and inter-
sected by several streams that appeared to direct their
course to the Indian Ocean. At length he reached Kuree-
chane, which is thought entitled to the appellation of a
city; and, at all events, its construction, and the arts
practised in it, were decidedly superior to any thing yet
seen in Southern Africa. The natives smelted iron and
copper in large clay furnaces; their houses were sur-
rounded with good stone-enclosures; while the walls of
mud were often painted, and moulded into pillars and other
ornaments. Well-fashioned vessels of earthenware were
used for holding their corn, milk, and ‘other stores ; and
considerable ingenuity was shown in the preparation of
skins. A certain extent of land, immediately round the
town, was under cultivation, while a larger portion beyond
was devoted to pasturage ; but it was necessary that the
cattle should every night be brought within the protection
of the town.
At Kureechane Mr. Campbell witnessed, on the largest
scale, the peetso or African council, where the assembled
chiefs act so extravagantly, yet speak with so much judg-
ment, as makes it difficult to say whether they are sages
g madmen. Even in their way to the meeting these
gavages indulge in strange gambols, making immense leaps
into the air, brandishing their weapons, as if to attack and
BURCHELL. 221
‘sometimes to stab an enemy. The circle being formed,
they all join in a song, which the principal person often
follows with a dance. Each chief, as he rises, prefaces
his speech with three tremendous howls or yells, sometimes
imitating the bark of a dog. Several of his attendants
then spring forward and dance before him,—an accompa-
niment never omitted, even when the age-and stiffened
limbs of the performers render it altogether ludicrous. At
length comes the speech, replete with frankness, courage, ©
often with good sense, and even with a rude species of elo-
quence. On some occasions the speakers do not hesitate
to pour the severest reproaches on the king, who retorts
with bitterness, but never resents in any other shape. 'The
females, meantime, stand behind, and take an eager interest
in the debate,—cheering those whose sentiments they ap-
«prove, or bursting into loud laughter at any that they con-
sider ridiculous.
Mr. Campbell, on his return, took a direction somewhat
to the westward, and found himself on the borders of an
immense desert, which he thinks may be called the Southern
Sahara. A party engaged in a plundermg expedition
were said to have spent two months in reaching Mampoor,
its opposite extremity, which was found situated on the
ocean. His conclusion, however, that this desert reaches
nearly to the equator is very hasty, since the route which
he mentions evidently extended, in a great measure, from
east to west.
Mr. Burchell, in 1812, made a pretty extensive journey
through this part of Africa. He did not reach quite so far
as his predecessor ; and the account of his progress beyond
Lattakoo has not yet appeared. At that city he spent a
considerable time; and his diligent observations of nature :
and society, animated by a fine vein of philosophical re-
flection, give a considerable interest to his narrative.
That rude equality which had been remarked among all
the tribes of the Hottentot race was found here giving
way to very marked distinctions, chiefly supported by
wealth, which those in power sought the means of in-
creasing, in their incessant wars and plunder; yet their
dignity is not accompanied with that haughty separation
from the inferior classes which exists in Europe. Mateebe,
called here Mattivi, chicf or king, used to squat himself
T 2 ;
222 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
on the ground, chatting and exchanging pipes with the lowest
of his people. Although, of course, their manners can
boast no great refinement, they are neither boisterous nor
vulgar; but a frank and easy deportment distinguishes all
classes. Industry is held in honour; the chiefs tend and
even milk the cows, while the women build the houses, cul-
tivate the greund, and prepare clothes and furniture. On
one occasion they gave good proof of their honesty; for,
when the traveller’s cattle had run away and mingled with
immense herds of their own, they sought them out and
brought them back to him. In begging, however, they are
most ceaseless and importunate. At Mr. Burchell’s first
entrance they observed a certain degree of ceremony, and
only one solitary cry for tobacco was heard; but this feel-
ing of delicacy or decorum soon gave way. Mattivi himself
made a private request that the presents intended for him
should not be seen by the people at large, by whom they
would soon be all begged away. ‘They seemed to have more
pride in what they procured by solicitation than in a thing
of greater value if received as a spontaneous gift. There
was hardly any appearance of police ; even murder passed
with impunity, though among themselves it was not fre-
quent. They had no temples, and nothing which Mr. Bur-
chell thinks can be called religious worship ; but, in return,
they had every form of superstition, which is generally the
sole substitute for religion in unenlightened societies.
The last visiter to Lattakoo was Mr. Thompson, who, in
1823, found that city in a state of great danger and alarm.
Rumours poured in of an immense host of black warriors
coming from the north and the east, who were said to be
plundering and destroying every thing before them. They
had already sacked Kureechane ; and being repulsed from
Melita, capital of the Wanketzens, were marching directly
upon Old Lattakoo. whence, it was apprehended, they would
advance to the modern city. It was added that they were
cannibals, and were led by a giantess with one eye; but,
amid all this exaggeration and falsehod, the reality of the
danger was undoubted. The Boshuanas immediately sum-
moned a peetso, and formed the manly resolution of going
out to meet the invader; but all who knew them were aware
that they would fight only by ambuscade and under cover,
and would take to flight as soon as the enemy should make
THOMPSON. 223
@ serious attack. The missionaries, in this extremity,
made great exertions to save the nation. One of them
hastened back to implore the aid of the Griquas, a people
bordering on the English colony, and who had learned the
use of firearms from the Europeans. Mr. Thompson and
another went out to trace and report the progress of this
formidable inroad. On reaching Old Lattakoo they found
it silent and uninhabited, like the most desolate wilderness ;
while the pots boiling on the fires showed that its desertion
Was recent, and that the enemy were probably at a very
short distance. Notwithstanding, they continued to ride
on, till, arriving at the top of a hill, their guide cried out,
“the Mantatees !” who were in fact seen moving in an im-
mense mass along the valley beneath. It was necessary
to put spurs to their horses, in order to escape the hazard
of being surrounded. '
The arrival of Mr. Thompson at Lattakoo spread a ge-
neral alarm; for so rapid was the Mantatee march, that
only a little time could elapse before they would reach the
city. The queen, with her female attendants and the prin-
cipal chiefs, rushed into the house to ask the advice of the
missionaries in this fearful crisis. The general opinion
was in favour of flight. Even the warriors, who had been
poisoning their arrows and dancing the war-dance whole
nights without intermission, gave up all hopes of success-
ful resistance, and were preparing to follow the long files
of oxen, on which the inhabitants were already placing
their most valuable effects. Suddenly a cloud of dust was
seen in the south, which, on its nearer approach, announced
the first division of Griqua horse coming to their aid.
Hereupon, all who were endued with any portion of cou-
rage determined to remain and face theenemy. The allies
were received with unbounded exultation; many oxen
were killed and roasted, and even at this critical moment
the two parties gave themselves up to feasting and _jollity.
Their security mcreased, when notice was received that the
Mantatees still remained at Old Lattakoo, consuming the
cattle and provisions which they had found in that place.
‘Several of the missionaries then set out to endeavour to
open a negotiation. On coming within sight of the enemy
they rode forward in a peaceful manner, inviting them by
signs to a conference; when instantly ‘that savage host
A24 SOUTHERN AFRICA.
taised a hideous yell, and rushed forward so rapidly, throw-
ing their spears and clubs, that the Christian plenipoten-
tiaries found the utmost difficulty in galloping out of om
reach.
The allied force now came up, and on the idl erae
morning offered battle to the vast army of the Mantatees.
“Their aspect was truly frightful. ‘They were almost quite
black, with only a girdle “round their loins; their heads
were crowned with plumes of ostrich feathers ; they had
numerous brass rings about their neck and legs, and were
armed with spears, javelins, battle-axes, and clubs. Their
whole body, which was supposed to amount to at least
40,000, rushed forward in an extended line, endeavouring
to enclose the little troop opposed to them. ‘The Boshu-
anas gave way as soon as they were seriously attacked ;
the Griquas, on the contrary, kept up a close fire, which
stunned the enemy, who still, however, continued to ad-
vance. The horsemen galloped back to some distance, then
alighted, and again alternately fired and retreated, repeatin
this manceuvre for several miles. ‘The Mantatees a |
on with the utmost fury, confident, if they could once come
to close quarters, of annihilating m an instant the handful
of troops opposed to them ; but finding that all their efforts
were vain, and seeing their ‘bravest warriors falling rapidly,
they paused, and began slowly to retire. The Griquas
pursued, but were several times exposed to extreme danger
by the enemy turning suddenly round and renewing the
combat. At length the Mantatees set fire to Lattakoo, and
retreated through the flames. ‘The missionaries were now
deeply shocked by the base and barbarous conduct of the
Boshuanas, who, after their pusillanimous behaviour in the
field, began not only to plunder, but to butcher the wounded
as well as the women and children left on the field; nor
was it without great difficulty that they succeeded insaving
some of these defenceless objects...
~ The name Mantatee, which signifies wanderer, applies,
ft is said, in no other respect to this desolating horde. They
appear to be a Caffre tribe, inhabiting the country near
Cape Natal, along the lower course of the river Mapoota.
They were impelled to this inroad, in consequence of having
been driven from their own possessions by the Zoolas, a still
more fierce and warlike race, who, on that occasion, were
{ty i
imate
Queen of Lattakoo, Lattakoo Warrior, and two Bosjesman
Hottentots.—[p, 225.]
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EASTERN AFRICA. 223
ied to victory by their king, Chaka, who can arm 100,000
fighting men, and has 15,000 constantly ready for war. A
small English settlement has been formed on his maritime
border, which is encouraged by that powerful chief with a
view to commercial advantages ; but of course much pre-
caution is required in dealing with a potentate who com-
mands so many savage bows and spears.
The Mantatees, after their defeat, separated into several
detachments, one of which settled among the Kureechanes,
while another advanced against the Caffres, whom they-de-
feated, and part of whose territory they have since continued
to occupy and plunder. In 1826, they came within two
days’ journey of the British frontier, where there was
nothing to prevent them from advancing upon the Scotch
locations in Albany ; but measures have since been taken, by
which these settlements are placed in full security.*
We possess only a very limited knowledge respecting the
-eastern coast of Africa, washed by the Indian Ocean,—a re-
gion scarcely visited except by the Portuguese, who con-
tinued to throw a veil of mystery over all their discoveries.
In 1498, when Vasco de Gama had rounded the Cape of
Good Hope, he touched at Mozambique, Mombasa, and Me-
linda, where he found the ruling people Arabs and bigoted
Mohammedans. His object was merely to obtain pilots to
guide his fleet to India; but at the two former of these
ports he met an inhospitable and treacherous reception ;
while, on the other hand, he experienced at Melinda the ut-
most courtesy, and readily found the means of continuing
his voyage to the coast of Malabar. Cabral, who followed
in the footsteps of Gama, likewise visited Quiloa, which he
describes as the capital of an extensive kingdom, and the
‘seat of a flourishing trade; but it was not till he, too,
reached Melinda, that he could obtain any friendly as-
sistance.
The Portuguese, engrossed for some time with the more
brilliant objects presented by the shores of India, sought in
African ports only refreshment and pilots, and made no at-
tempt at conquest. As their empire, however, extended,
resentment or ambition furnished motives for successively
attacking those settlements. In 1505, Almeda, indignant
* The group in the annexed plate represents the Queen of Lattakoo, a
Lattakoo warrior, and two Bosjesman Hottentots.
226 EASTERN AFRICA.
at the reception given to him at Quiloa and Mombasa, landed
and took possession of both these cities. In 1508, permis-
sion was obtained to erect a fort at Mozambique, by means
of which the Portuguese soon expelled the Arabs, and be-
came complete masters of the town. Attracted by its vici-
nity to the gold mines, and its convenience as a place of re-
freshment for their fleets, they made it the capital of their
possessions in Eastern Africa. Melinda also, which had
long shown such a friendly disposition to Europeans, be-
came at last unable to endure the insulting spirit of the
Mohammedans; a quarrel arose, and that city was added to
the dominion of the Portuguese. They were now masters
of an immense range of coast, fully 2000 miles in length,
on which they held all the principal positions, though
without extending their sway to any distance into’ the in-
terior.
About 1569, the Portuguese made two vigorous attempts,
under Nugnez Barreto and Vasco Fernandez, to advance
into the country behind Mozambique, chiefly with the view
of reaching the mines of gold, the produce of which was
brought in considerable quantities down the Zambese to
Sofala. They penetrated a considerable way up the river,
on the banks of which they erected the forts of Sena and
Tete. Its upper course was found overhung by steep and
precipitous rocks, belonging to the mountainous range of
Lupala, which here crosses its channel. They arrived at
Zimbao, the capital of Quiteve, or king of Motapa, and even
at the gold mines of Manica; but, instead of the expected
profusion of this precious metal, they found that, as in other
parts of Africa, it was laboriously extracted in small quan-
tities from the extraneous substances in which it is imbed-
ded. On this expedition they had frequent encounters with
the natives, who were always beaten in the field ; but the
Europeans were so harassed by long marches, and by the ©
searcity of provisions, that they finally returned in a very
exhausted state, and without having been able to establish
any permanent dominion over that vast extent of country.
As the energy of the Portuguese government declined, its
sway over these colonies was reduced within limits which
always became narrower. In 1631, the people of Mom-
basa rose, made a general massacre of the Europeans, and
re-established their independence. About*the end of the
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA 227
seventeenth century, the imam of Mascat, a powerful Ara-
- bian prince, drove them out of Melinda and Quiloa. Their
possessions are now confined to Mozambique and Sofala,
and are maintained even there on a very reduced scale. The
former of these stations, when visited by Mr. Salt in 1808,
was found to contain less than 3000 inhabitants, of whom
only 500 were Portuguese ; and the fortifications were in
so neglected a state, that an Arabian chief assured the tra-
veller that with 100 stout followers he could drive the sub-
jects of Portugal out of this capital of Eastern Africa.
Yet the government-house, in its interior arrangements, still
exhibits some remains of the ancient splendour of the vice-
roys. ‘The entertainment of tea, which is open every eve-
ning to all the respectable inhabitants, is set out in a service
of pure gold; and the negroes in attendance are absolutely
loaded with ornaments of that metal. Mozambique has
still a pretty considerable commerce in gold, ivory, and
slaves, brought down from the regions of the Upper Zam-
bese. ‘These captives, since Britain shut against them the
markets of the Cape of Good Hope and Mauritius, have
been, to the number of about 4000 in the year, sent chiefly
to Brazil.
CHAPTER XVI. .
On the Social Condition of Africa.
Havine commenced this work by a general survey of
Africa as it came from Nature’s hand, we shall conclude
with taking a rapid sketch of the changes made by man,—
the societies formed on its immense surface ; its arts, its in-
dustry, its social and moral'existence ; noticing, finally, the
few attempts which Britain has made to establish colonies
on that continent.
A grand distinction must here be made between the na-
tive inhabitants of Africa and the foreign races from Arabia
and other Asiatic countries, by whom so large a portion of
its surface has been occupied. This distinction we shall
4
228 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
rest, not upon supposed resemblances of form and figure,
or faint analogies between the language of distant nations,
but upon the introduction, within the limits of authentic
history, of a people, manners, and religion belonging to
another continent. The changes now mentioned were
effected, in a great measure, by the inroads of the Arabs or
Saracens, and afterward by the conquests of the Turks,—
events which have diffused over the northern half of Africa
a social system every way different from that of the tribes
by whom it was formerly inhabited. We shall begin, how-
ever, with considering the native races who at present peo-
ple this quarter of the globe.
The native tribes of Africa exist generally in that stage
of society which is denominated barbarian. ‘They are ele-
vated above the hunting or savage state, by the power of
taming and subjecting the lower animals, and by a certam
rude agriculture which the fertility of the soil renders pro-
ductive. Yet few of them are nomadic and wandering like
the Arabs or the Tartars: they generally have native seats,
to which they cling with strong feelings of local attach-
ment. Even the tenants of the Desert, who roam widely
in quest of commerce and plunder, have their little watered
valleys, or circuit of hills, in which they make their perma-
nent abode.
Agriculture, including pasturage, forms the most im-
portant branch of industry in every society, and more espe-
cially i in one where all the finer arts are yet in a state of in-
fancy. In Africa, however, both the extent of cultivation
and the processes employed are stiil extremely imperfect.
This is particularly manifest from the fact that no private
property in land has been any where established. Every
city or village is encircled by an unoccupied domain of
forest or waste, belonging to the king or the state, and of .
which a portion is ready to be granted to any one who will
undertake the labour and expense of cultivation ; while the
remainder forms an immense common, on witcha all the in-
habitants have the liberty of pasturing their cattle. There
are in Africa no country-seats, no rural farms, such as em-
bellish the aspect of an European landscape ; and which, in
fact, could not exist in safety, where each little state is be-
girt with hostile neighbours, and so.many predatory bands
are prowling in every direction. The population is col- -
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 229
lected in towns or large villages, Youn which a circle of
cultivation is formed; while beyond are ee apeRE
where numerous herds are fed, and watched by day as well
as by night. The space within the walls forms a pretty
wide district, where, even in the largest cities, the houses
are interspersed with cultivated fields, and the low roofs
“are seen rising behind ears of corn. All the processes of
»reparing the ground, sowing, and reaping, are slight and
simple. ‘The plough has not passed the limits of Barbary ;
and perbaps, in tropical climates, the deep furrow which it
lays open might expose the soil too much to the parching
effects of a burning sun. Grain is raised only by means
of the most profuse moisture, which of itself softens the
earth. As soon as the periodical floods have deluged the
ground, or the temporary river inundation has retired, the
labourers walk forth; one slightly stirs the earth with a
hoe, while another, close behind, deposites the grain. Fre-
quently this toil is lightened, from being performed by the
whole village in common, when it appears less a scene of
labour than a gay festival, like our English period of reap-
ing. The village musician plays the most lively airs; the
labourers keep time to his tune; and a spectator at a little
distance would suppose them to be dancing instead of
working. Irrigation, in all tropical climates, is the grand
source of fertility; and wherever industry has made any
progress, very considerable pains are taken to collect and
distribute the waters, which either fall in rain, or are con-
veyed by river channels. Egypt is well known to owe its
fertility altogether to the canals which diffuse over its
plains the water of the Nile; and in Nubia, where the
current remains constantly sunk in its rocky bed, there is a
succession of sakies or wheels, by which it is raised, and
conducted over the adjoining fields. In this way a belt of
cultivation, of about a mile in breadth, is perpetuated along
the whole upper course of that great river.
In all the tropical and more “arid regions, the prevailing
grains are of inferior character, coarse, and small,—rather,
as Jobson says, like seeds than grains, and fitted less for
bread than for pasie or pottage. The dhourra is the most com-
mon, extending over all Eastern Africa ; while millet in the
west, and teff in Abyssinia,. are productions nearly similar.
In the latter country and Houssa, both wheat and rice are
230 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
* |
raised, but only in favourable situations, and for the tables
of the more opulent. Perhaps the greatest exertion of
agricultural industry is that bestowed upon the culture of
the manioc, which forms the main article of food n Congo
and some of the insular territories. Considerable care is
required in rearing it, and cleaning the ground round the
plants; after the root, which is the valuable part, has been
dug up, it must be ground in a species of mill, and dried in
small furnaces, before it can be used as flour. The process
is represented in the acconipanying plate.
Manufactures, in a country where men are contented
_ with the simplest accommodations, cannot attain any high
importance. ‘There are, however, certain fine fabrics - pe-
culiar to Central Africa; of which the most general is
cotton cloth, produced in several districts of a very beauti-
ful texture, dyed blue with fine indigo, and receiving from
the processes employed a very brilliant gloss. Leather in
Houssa is dressed and dyed in the same rich and soft style
as in Morocco; and probably, in both cases, the manufac-
ture is native. Mats, used both for sitting and sleeping on,
are the staple manufacture in many parts of Western
Africa. Gold and silver ornaments are made with some
taste ; and iron is generally fabricated, though with a vary-
ing and imperfect degree of skill.
The tribes of Africa have scarcely in any instance ar-
rived at the first rudiments of maritime commerce. The
circuit of that continent presents no spacious inlets of the
sea,~—no deep bays to cherish the growth of infant naviga-
tion. Even the great lines of river-course are little if at
all subservient to the purposes of inland communication,
but are often so situated as to obstruct. the career of the
traveller, who crosses them in canoes hollowed out of a
single tree, or on slight and dangerous rafts.' Almost all
the commerce of Africa is carried on by land. Caravans,,
kafilas, or coffles, cover all the routes, and connect the most —
distant extremities of the continent. These are formed by
a union of travellers, an arrangement strictly necessary for
mutual aid amid the difficulties and perils by which almost
every track is beset. The native traders do not employ
camels, which have been introduced by a foreign race from
Arabia into the northern deserts, for which they are per-
fectly adapted. .The wagon, and indeed every species of
AN
AAT
N egroes preparing the Manioc Root.— [p. 230. ]
>
SOCIAL .— OF AFRICA. 231
draught, is nearly unknown, and would be ill suited to the
African roads, the best of which are narrow paths cut
through thick and entangled forests. In the hilly and
central districts, cither the back of asses, or the head of
slaves and women, serves as the ordinary vehicle.
The largest branch of the native trade of Africa origin-
ates in the great demand for salt, and the longing desire
which is felt for it in all the provinces to the south of the
Great Desert. This commodity is chiefly brought from the
seacoast ; from large pits in the Western Desert ; and also
from the lakes or ponds of Domboo, in the country of the
Tibboo. In like manner, from the west are sent up cowries
or shells, the chief currency of the interior kingdoms, and
goora or kolla nuts, a favourite luxury, which, on account
of the agreeable taste they impart to the water drunk after
them, are called African coffee. ‘The returns are made in
gold, ivory, fine cloths, and too often in slaves. The trade
with Northern Africa across the Desert consists in foreign
commodities. The chief imports are gaudy and glittering
ornaments; for the power of distinguishing between the
genuine and the false in finery does not seem to exist be-
yond the Sahara. Captain Lyon enumerates nine kinds
of beads, silks, and cloths of bright colours, especially red,
copper kettles, long swords, powder, and ball. Antimony
_to blacken the eyes, with cast-off clothes, and old armour,
find also a ready market. ‘The returns are the same as
those sent to the shores of the Atlantic. The monetary
system of the negro countries is most imperfect ; for the
shell currency, of which it requires several thousand pieces
to make. up a pound sterling, must be intolerably tedious.
The only metallic form appears in Loggun, where it con-
sists of rude bars of iron. In Bornou, and several coun-
tries on the coast, cloth, mats, or some other article in
general demand, is made the common measure of value.
All the accommodations of life throughout this continent
are simple and limited in the greatest degree. There does
not, probably, without some foreign interposition, exist in
Africa a stone house, or one which rises two stories from
the ground. The materials of the very best habitations are
merely stakes of wood plastered with earth, built in a
conical form like bee-hives, and resembling the first rude
shelter which man framed against the elements. Many of
232 © SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
these mansions afford little facility for standing upmght,
and indeed are resorted to chiefly for sleep and shelter,
while the court before the door, shaded by the family tree,
is the scene of social intercourse, and of all meetings for
the purposes of business and gayety. Greater efforts in-
deed are made to form a. commodious state-room or public
hall, called the palaver-house ; yet this, too, consists merely,
as shown in the annexed plate, of alarge apartment, raised
=
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; LG gy
t WY My
Me Ne: LLY 74
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re
on posts fixed in the ground, and roofed with slopmg
planks, which leave the interior open to the air on every
side. The houses and yards of persons in any degree opu-
lent are enclosed by an outer wall or hedge, sometimes pretty
high, serving the purposes both of privacy anddefence. Even
the palaces of the grandees, and of the greatest monarchs,
consist of merely a cluster of these hovels or cottages,
forming a little village, with large open spaces, and sur-
rounded by a common wall. The state-hall of the sultan
of the Fellatas, the greatest of the African princes, is an
apartment to which, in Captain Clapperton’s opinion, the
term shed would in Europe be properly applied. Slender,
however, as is the accommodation afforded by these edi-
fices, they are liberally adorned, especially in the larger
cities, both with carving and painting. .
If African houses be of mean construction, the internal
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 233
accommodations are equally scanty. Except the state-
chairs or thrones of the great monarchs, ascended only on
very solemn occasions, there is not throughout native Africa
a seat tositupon. ‘The people squat on the ground in cir-
cles; andif the chief can place beneath him the skin of a
lion or leopard, he is at the height of his pomp. Fora
table there is at best a wooden board, whereon is neither
plate, knife, fork, nor spoon; the fingers being supposed
fully adequate to the performance of every function. If
it be necessary to separate into parts a large joint, or
even a sheep roasted whole, the dagger or sword of the
warrior is drawn forth, and very speedily accomplishes the
object. .
The intellectual character of the natives of this conti-
nent presents a peculiar and remarkable deficiency. If we
except the Ethiopic language, which is seemingly of Arabic
origin, and the unknown characters, probably Pheenician,
inscribed by the Tuaricks on their dark rocks, there is not a
tincture of letters or of writing among all the aboriginal tribes
of Africa. There is not a hieroglyphic or a symbol,—no-
thing corresponding to the painted stories of Mexico, or the
knotted quipos of Peru. Oral communication forms the
enly channels by which thought can be transmitted from
one country and one age to another. The lessons of time,
the experience of ages, do not exist for the nations of this
vast continent.
Notwithstanding so great a deficiency, the African must
not be imagined as sunk in entire mental apathy. ‘The en-
terprise of a perilous and changeful life developes energies
which slumber amid the general body of the people ina
civilized society. Their great public meetings and palavers
exhibit a fluent and natural oratory, accompanied often
with much good sense and shrewdness. Above all, the pas-
sion for poetry is nearly universal. As soonas the evening
breeze begins to blow, the song resounds throughout all
Africa,—it cheers the despondency of the wanderer through
the desert,—it enlivens the social meeting,—it inspires the
dance,—and even the lamentations of the mourner are
poured forth in measured accents. Their poetry does not con-
sist in studied and regular pieces, suchas, after previous study,
are recited in our schools and theatres; they are extempo-
rary and spontaneous are in which the speaker gives
2
>
-
234 = SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
\
utterance to his hopes and fears, his joys and sorrows. All
the sovereigns are attended by crowds of singing men and
singing worien, who, whenever any interesting event oc-
curs, celebrate it in songs, which they repeat aloud and in
public. Flattery, of course, must be a standing reproach
against this class of bards ; yet from this imputation their
European brethren are not exempted; while, from Major
Laing’s report, it appears that there is often present a sable
‘T'yrteus, who reproaches the apathy of the prince and people,
and rouses them to deeds of valour. Specimens are want-
ing of the African muse ; yet, considering that its effusions
are numerous, inspired by nature, and animated by na-
tional enthusiasm, they seem not unlikely to reward the
care of a collector. The few examples actually given fa-
vour this conclusion. How few among our peasantry could
have produced the pathetic and affecting lamentation which
was uttered in the little Bambarra cottage over the distresses
of Park! These songs, besides, handed down from father
to son, contain evidently all that exists among these na-
tions of traditional history. From the songs of the Jil-
limen of Soolimani, Major Laing was enabled to compile
the annals of this. small kingdom for more than a century.
In their religion, the negroes labour under the disadvan-
tage of being left to unassisted reason, and that, too, very
little enlightened. Man has, perhaps, an instinctive senti-
ment that his own fate and that of the universe are ruled
by some supreme and invisible power ; yet he sees this only
through the medium of his wishes and imagination. He
seeks for some object of veneration and means of protection, —
which may assume an outward and tangible shape. The
negro reposes his faith in the doctrine of charms, which
presents a substance stamped with a mystic and superna-
tural character, capable of being attached to himself indi-
vidually, and of affording a feeling of security amid the ©
many evils that environ him. The manitou of the native
Americans is founded upon the same principle; and the
similar use, by Catholics, of images, beads, and relics, per-
vertedly employed even under a pure and exalted religion,
shows the strength of this propensity in the human mind.
In all the Moorish borders, where writing is known, it forms
the basis of feticherie; and its productions, rendered more
brilliant and sensible by being enclosed in golden or orna-
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 235
mented cases, are hung round the person as guardian influ-
ences. The very circumstance of the characters being un-
intelligible gives to them the power of exciting ideas more
mysterious and supernatural. Where this artis unknown,
a bow, a horn, a feather, the beaks and the claws of birds,
even the most frivolous and insignificant object, is employed
and relied on with the fullest confidence. Absurd, how-
ever, as are the observances of the negro, he is a stranger
to the deadly bigotry of his Moslem neighbour. He neither
persecutes, nor even brands as impious, those whose reli-
gious views differ the most widely from. hisown. ‘There is
only one point on which his faith assumes a savage character,
and displays darker than inquisitorial horrors. The hope
of an immortal destiny, dimly working in the blinded hu-
man heart, leads to the wildest errors. ‘The despot, the
object of boundless homage on earth, seeks to transport all
his pomp, and the crowd of his attendants, to his place in
the future world. His death must be celebrated by the cor-
responding sacrifice of anumerous band of slaves, of wives
and of courtiers: their blood must water his grave; and
the sword of the rude warrior, once drawn, does not readily
stop ;—a general massacre often takes place, and the ca
pitals of these barbarian chiefs are seen to stream with blood.
This horrid system is not exclusively African ; but it else-
where exists on a smaller scale, and is attached to a state
of society much more decidedly savage. |
In regard to the social aspect of this continent, the unim
proved condition in which it appears may be regarded as
that perhaps in which violence and wrong have the widest
field, and cause the most dreadful calamities to the hu-
man race. ‘The original simplicity, founded on the absence
of all objects calculated to excite turbulent desires and pas-
sions, has disappeared, while its place is not yet supplied by
the restraints of law and the refinements of civilized society.
War, the favourite pursuit, is therefore carried on with the |
most unrelenting fury ; and robbery, on a great and national
scale, is generally prevalent. Brilliant and costly articles
already exist; but these are distributed with an inequality
which the needy warrior seeks by his sword to redress.
African robbery is not perpetrated by concealed or proscribed
ruffians, who shrink from the eye of man, and are the out-
casts of social life. It is not evenconfined to the poor tribes
of the Desert, who see caravans laden with immense wealth
‘
236 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
pass along their borders. Princes, kings, and the most
distinguished warriors consider it a glory to place them-
selves at the head of an expedition urdertaken solely for
the purposes of plunder.
Slavery seems also to belong to the barbarian state. Man
has emerged from the limited wants of savage life, and sees
productions of art, which he eagerly covets, without having
acquired those habits of steady industry by which he might
earn them for himself. His remedy is to compel those whom
his superior strength, or any other advantage, enables him
to bring under subjection, to labour in supplying his wants.
Often the blind and spontaneous veneration of those tribes
for their chiefs causes them to sink into voluntary slavery ;
many again are made captive in war ; and generally a great
part of the population of every barbarous society is placed
in a state of bondage. .
From the two evils above described arises a third, still
darker,—the stealing of human beings in order to make
them slaves. This is perpetrated widely throughout Africa,
and attended with every circumstance of crime and horror.
It is an enormity also in which the greatest sovereigns do not
scruple to participate. Their troops surround a town in the
dead*of night, watching till the first dawn, when the gates
are opened ;—they then rush in, set fire to it, and while the
victims, with shrieks and cries, are seeking to escape, bind
and carry them off into slavery. It nust be confessed, at
the same time, that the unrelenting and atrocious spirit of
this warfare has been in a great measure produced by fo-
reign connexion, either with the European powers, or with”
Northern Africa, Turkey, and other Mohammedan states.
Notwithstanding so many evils, however, we may again
repeat, that an unvaried cloud of moral darkness does not
hang over Africa. The negro character appears to be dis-
tinguished by some features unusually amiable, by a pecu-
liar warmth of the social affections, and by a close adhe-
rence to kindred ties. If some travellers have been ill-
treated and plundered, others have been relieved with the
most signal and generous hospitality. The negro, unless
when under the influence of some violent excitement, is, on
the whole, more mild, hospitable, and liberal than the
Moor ; it is by the latter race that the atrocities against Eu-
ropean travellers have been chiefly perpetrated.
In the political arrangements of the African states there
- SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 237
occur some singular anomalies. A bold and independent spirit
has been supposed to characterize man in a rude and un-
civilized condition; and, accordingly, a number of petty
communities here present an aristocratic, and sometimes
even a republican form. But all the great kingdoms are
subject to the most complete and abject despotism. 'Thou-
sands of brave warriors bend down to one of their fellow-
mortals with a profound and servile abasement, never wit-
nessed in polished or, as we call them, corrupted societies.
Examples so frequent and striking have occurred in the
course of this narrative, that we need not adduce any other
illustration. It deserves particular notice that the nations —
in this degrading condition are the most numerous, the most
powerful, and most advanced in all the arts and improve-
ments of life; that, if we except the human sacrifices to
which blind veneration prompts them, they display even a
disposition more amiable, manners more dignified and
polished, and moral conduct more correct, than prevail
among the citizens of the small free states, who are
usually idle, turbulent, quarrelsome, and licentious. Bad,
therefore, as absolute power is in itself, there appears, ne-
vertheless, in the disposition shown by man to submit to it
in this uncultivated state, something salutary, and: which
even tends to his ultimate improvement.
The foreign races who have settled in Africa by migra-
tion and conquest are found fully established in the fine
country along the Mediterranean. The inroad of the Arabs
or Saracens, and the subsequent conquest by tlte sultans,
have stamped completely their character on this vast region.
The Turkish sabre and the Moslem creed lord it over
these ancient seats of empire, light, and civilization. The
remnants of the native tribes are either sunk in degradation,
as the Copts, lurking in the recesses of the mountains, or
wandering over desert plains, as the Brebers, the 'Tibboos,
and the 'Tuaricks. The once-varied frame of society is now
moulded into one gloomy monotony, such as is always pro-
duced by the influence of Mussulman habits. ‘Turkish
cities exhibit every where one uniform aspect ; high walls of
earth, without windows, border on narrow and dirty streets ;
and the nakedness and desolation of the exterior often form
a striking contrast with the barbarian splendour within. A
deep and grave solemnity, the absence of all gay and social
238 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA,
meetings, and the entire seclusion of females, produce an
effect wholly different from that of European society. In
the country, the Arab population is simple and patriarchal ;
yet unhappily no strangers to violence and plunder in their
very worst forms.
The two races, thus strikingly distinguished, native and
foreign, Mohammedan and pagan, meet and mix in Cen-
tral Africa, on the banks of the Niger, and on the other
great rivers which water that region. Major Rennell con-
-siders the stream now named as the boundary between the
Moors and negroes, as Pliny conceived it to separate the
Africans from the Ethiopians; and the division, though
not rigorously correct, is yet, ina general sense, conformable
to fact. 'The Moors have made extensive conversions, and
have introduced all that is known of letters or writing into
the interior regions. Yet the lurid gleam thus shed over
benighted Africa serves little more than to deepen the sur-
rounding darkness. ‘This sublime art is prized, not as the
principal means of enlightening and enlarging the human
mind, but as a tool of the magic art,—an imstrument for
manufacturing charms and fetiches, to be sold at high prices
to the deluded natives. Only a few of the great sheiks and
doctors read even the Koran. The most approved mode of
imbibing its contents, as was formerly stated, is by tracing
the characters on a smooth board with a black substance,
then washing them off, and swallowing the water. Others,
having enclosed the Koran in a large silver case, bear it
constantly about, groaning under the burden, but expecting
from it the greatest spiritual benefits.
Bigotry among these negro converts rises to a still higher
pitch ; and the future doom of the unbeliever is considered
even more assured than on the shores of the Mediterranean.
Meantime they subject him to the earthly miseries of foreign |
and distant bondage; for, while it is unlawful to enslave
any true believer, the goods, the person, nay, the whole
property of the Caffre are considered as rightfully belonging
to the children of the prophet. This very circumstance
causes a secret abatement in that eager spirit of proselytism
which burns so fiercely among the adherents of the Moslem
creed. ‘They cannot be insensible, that if the eyes of this
host of unbelievers were enlightened, they themselves
would forfeit the ground on which they rest their only claim,
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 239
now in full exercise, of driving them by thousands to the
markets of Kano and Tripoli.
In general we may observe, that white the Mohammedan
converts in Central Africa are so intensely bigoted in re-
_ spect to dogmas, they are more lax in practice than their
brethren of Cairo and Tripoli. The females are not so
closely immured; and the men seldom adhere to that pre-
cept of the Koran which enjoins abstinence from fermented
liquors. The bouza, or acid beer, circulates briskly in Mos-
lem as well as in pagan circles. It is true that the sove-
reigns, who are usually zealous Mussulmans, are occasionally
seized with a paroxysm of zeal, and denounce dreadful pe-
nalties against all who indulge in this beloved liquor. But
this proceeding, being extremely unpopular, causes oniy a
transitory emotion, which soon subsides, and affairs resume
their wonted course.
The Mohammedan religion, wherever it is established, has
abolished the horrors of human sacrifice,—a great and im-
portant good. In all other respects, the introduction of this
foreign race and foreign creed seems only to have deepened
the evils under which Africa had formerly suffered.
Colonization, which in America has been carried to so
vast an extent, filling that continent almost entirely with an
European population, has never been attempted in Africa,
except on the most limited scale. By much the largest co-
lony is that founded by the Dutch at the Cape of Good Hope,
which was transferred to the English by the events of the
last war. In 1827, it was estimated to contain a population ©
of 120,000, being nearly double the amount in 1798; about
47,000 were Europeans, 28,000 Hottentots, and 35,000
slaves. Cape Town, which in 1824 comprised a population
of 18,668, has probably increased to upwards of 20,000, and
is now quite an English city, having newspapers, a ‘ South
African Journal” devoted to literature and science, and many
intelligent inhabitants.
Ten years ago, under the severe pressure felt in Britain
from the scarcity of employment and subsistence, several
thousands were sent out to occupy the district of Albany in,
the eastern part of the colony. This settlement has not
been prosperous ; and the expectation that it would prove a
thriving agricultural station has, for the present, been dis-
240 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
appointed. The severe droughts, and periodical inundations
to which it is subject, have been found to render the raisi
of grain of every kind very precarious, and obliged the co«
lonists to have recourse to pasturage; while the lots are too
small to render the latter mode of industry sufficiently pro~-
ductive. They consist, according to Mr. ‘Thompson, of only
100 acres, which are not capable of supporting above twelve:
oxen and cows. The Dutch settlers usually held 6000
acres, for which they paid merely the expenses of measur
mg and survey, amounting to between 300 and 600 dollars,
with a quit-rent of from thirty to fifty. To obtain this:
quantity of land, the British settlers must carry out fifty-
nine servants (who it is true have their passage paid by
government), depositing 10/. for each; which, with their
support for three years, would exceed six times the value
of the property. In 1825, after three unfavourable harvests,
the distress of the colony became extreme, and a subscrip-
tion of not less than 3000/. was raised in Cape Town for
their relief. A number then left the settlement; after
which, the condition of those who remained gradually im-
' proved, and is now becoming comfortable. Mr. Thompson,
however, recommends to emigrants who possess any capital
to purchase land from the Dutch boors in the vicinity of the
Cape; many of whom, possessing lots of nearly 100,000 acres,
would willingly dispose of part of their grants for money.
To make head against the irruption of the Caffres, a body
of military are stationed at the eastern boundary of the co-
lony, who, in conjunction with the Albany settlers, have
formed Graham’s Town, the inhabitants of which amount
to about 3000. Mr. Rose, who was lately there, describes
it as “a large, ugly, ill-built, straggling place, containing a
strange mixture of lounging officers, idle tradesmen, drunken
soldiers, and still more drunken settlers.” Its situation is.
romantic, being a deep hollow surrounded by high green
hills, separated by glens overhung by steep and wooded
precipices. ‘These glens form the roads, which branch off
like rays from a centre, and through them are seen labour-
ing heavy wagons, drawn by oxen, frequently coming from
very remote districts. ‘They bring not only provisions and
* necessaries, but the rude products of the surrounding re-
eee of the lion and leopard, horns of the buffalo,
t
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 241
_ eggs and feathers of the ostrich, tusks of the elephant and
hippopotamus, and rich fur mantles.
It would be improper to omit mentioning in this place
the benevolent and persevering exertions of the Moravian
and other missionaries, who, in that distant quarter of the
continent, have made indefatigable exertions for the instruc-
tion and improvement of the miserable natives. ‘They have
not only communicated to them the light of true religion,
but have successfully laboured to better their temporal cir-
cumstances, and communicate habits of order, cleanliness,
and industry. The missionary stations now extend north-
ward to Lattakoo, and eastward into the country of the
Caffres ; and they are daily assuming a wider range.
By far the most persevering attempt made by Britain to
form a colony in Africa applies to that founded at Sierra
Leone, originating in the most benevolent motives, and con-
ducted under the patronage of highly distinguished charac-
ters. It had for its object the improvement of the conti-
nent, as well as the diminution and final abolition of the
African slave-trade. In 1772, a celebrated decision by
Lord Mansfield established the principle, that a negro, from
the moment he sets foot on British ground, becomes free.
A strong interest was thus excited on the subject; and a
great number of black servants having, in consequence of
the above judgment, left their masters, were rambling in a
somewhat desolate condition in the streets of the British
metropolis. On learning their circumstances, Mr. Granville
Sharp, an individual of unwearied benevolence, with the
advice of Mr. Smeathman, who had spent a considerable
time in Africa, formed the plan of transporting them into
their native country, to lay the foundation of a colony.
Government having concurred in the undertaking, the set~
tlers were sent out in the Nautilus, Captain Thompson, and
landed on the 9th May, 1787, upon a district of about
twenty square miles, purchased from Naimbanna, the king
of Sierra Leone. Unfortunately these negroes, as well as
about sixty whites, chiefly females, sent along with them,
were of mixed and very indifferent characters. A great
proportion soon fell a sacrifice to the climate,—the others
showed themselves destitute of all habits of industry, and
were besides severely harassed by the hostility of the neigh
bouring tribes ; so that, by the year 1791, the whole number
242 SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA.
was reduced to sixty-four. But the philanthropic zeal
which prevailed in Britain for the colonization of Africa
suffered no abatement. An association was formed under
the titles of the St. George’s Bay, and afterward of the
Sierra Leone Company, with a capital of 250,000/., for
the prosecution of this interesting object; and they soon
found another quarter whence a supply of colonists might
be drawn. During the American war, a number of negro
slaves in the revolted colonies, on the invitation of the Bri-
tish government, had deserted their masters. and joined her
standard. After the unfortunate issue of the contest, these
fugitives. claimed the fulfilment of a promise said to have
been made, that they should have lands allotted for their
subsistence. The proffer now made of grants on their na-
tive shore, and in a more congenial climate, was cordially ac-
cepted. In March, 1792, they were landed at Sierra Leone,
to the amount of 1131, in addition to 100 Kuropeans who
had arrived in the preceding month. A fever, however,
which the negroes had brought with them, aggravated by
the unhealthy nature of the climate, carried off a consider-
able number ; and to this latter cause of mortality half of the
European settlers fell victims. The improvement of the
colony was also much retarded by a very general spirit of
insubordination; and, in 1794, it was barbarously plundered
by a French squadron, which caused losses amounting to
upwards of 50,000/. However, the settlement had gra-
dually recovered, and was beginning to make some progress,
when, in 1800, it was recruited with 550 maroons, or insur-
rectionary negroes from Jamaica, who had been originally
transported to Nova Scotia. ‘They arrived at a very sea-
sonable moment, when a disturbance had just broken out
among the original body of negroes, which the British
crews were busily employed in suppressing.
Notwithstanding all that had been done for the improve-
‘ment of Sierra Leone, which had more than absorbed the
original capital of the company, very little progress was
yet made towards fulfilling its objects. No spirit of indus-
try had been infused into “the inhabitants, and no amicable
connexions formed with the neighbouring states. The
eompany had scarcely the means of supporting it any
longer; but there appeared reason to hope that the more
energetic and influential efforts of government might yet
SOCIAL CONDITION OF AFRICA. 243
overcome the obstacles which had hitherto baffled the most
_ strenuous efforts of individuals. Accordingly, by mutual
agreement, concluded on the 8th August, 1807, and carried
into effect on the 1st January following, the settlement was
surrendered into the hands of the crown, and placed on the
same footing with the other British colonies.
From this time a new and much more copious source of
population was opened. Since the year just mentioned,
Britain had prohibited her own subjects from carrying on
the slave-trade, and she had afterward obtained an assur-
ance from other countries, that they would discontinue it
along all the coast northward of the Line. She even re-
ceived permission to treat as pirates such of their subjects
as within those limits might be found employed in the con-
veyance of slaves. In her zeal for the abolition of this
odious traffic, she has maintained a number of ships con-
stantly watching those seas, and capturing every vessel
thus unlawfully laden. The liberated negroes are brought
to Sierra Leone, where they are located in the surrounding
villages. For some time they receive rations, and are kept
in pretty strict subordination ; but, after a certain period,
they obtain assignments of ground, from which to earn
their own subsistence. On the 3lst March, 1827, the
slaves thus liberated amounted to 11,878, of which there
were 4701 males above and 1875 under fourteen ; 2717 fe-
males above and 1517 under that age; besides 1068 settled in
Freetown, or employed on the river in the timber trade. On
the 31st December, 1828, the number had been increased by
new arrivals to 16,886. Unfortunately, neither their pro-
gress in industry and civilization, nor the general prospe-
rity of the colony, has answered the sanguine expectations
once so fondly cherished. The efficiency of the govern-
ment has been much impaired by various errors and unfor-
tunate circumstances, and above all by the singularly dele-
terious influence of the climate on European constitutions.
This, it is supposed, is owing not so much to the mere heat,
as to the noxious exhalations arising from an ill-regultated
town, and an uncultivated country, covered with such a
mass of brush and jungle as to impede the necessary venti-
lation. The result is, a remittent fever, so malignant that
almost all Europeans are attacked with it, and not one in
three recovers These circumstances have oftener than
244 GEOLOGY OF AFRICA. ~
once led to the consideration whether Sierra Leone ought
not to be ‘entirely relinquished. An attempt has even been
recently made to establish in itsroom a colony at Fernando
Po, a small island in the Gulf of Benin; but the expectations
formed from its climate have also been entirely disappointed.
Meantime, it is considered that the absolute abandonment
of Sierra Leone would leave full scope for the contraband
slave-trade, and frustrate all hopes of establishing a centre
whence civilization might hereafter spread throughout -
Africa. The latest accounts from the governors, Colonel
Denham, in 1827 and 1828, and Major Ricketts, in 1829,
express a decided opinion that aspirit of improvement is at
last beginning to be manifested,—that the inhabitants show
a disposition to cultivate the ground, and an anxiety to be
able to purchase European: luxuries,—and that in the
villages, particularly of Wellington and Waterloo, good
churches, and a few stone houses, have been erected. The
annual expenditure has been reduced to about 40,000/., of
which 17,0002. is for liberated Africans ; and government
seems desirous to retain the settlement, till the natives shall
be so far improved as to be able to conduct their own ad-
ministration, and to afford an example of industry and order
to the neighbouring states.
ey
CHAPTER XVII.
Geology of si kes *
Arrica is distinguished from the other continents by its
nearly insular form, being connected with Asia merely by
an inconsiderable neck of land or isthmus, viz. that of
Suez. It extends from the equator to about the average
latitude of 35° north, and also to the same degree of lati-
tude south. The greatest length from north to south is
from Cape Serrat in Algiers, in lat. 37° 18’ pa —
* According to some authors, the name Africa is derived ‘dee a, neg.,
and frigus, cold; while others trace it from asmall Carthaginian district
named Frigi—A-frike- a.
AFRICAN REGIONS _- 245
Laguillas, in lat. 34° 55’ S.; andthe greatest breadth from
Cape Verde, in long. 17° 31’ W., to Cape Guardafui, in
long. 51° 15’ E. The northern portion of this continent
is fully twice the size of the southern portion, and may be
considered as about equal to South America; while the
southern half is contracted to half the breadth of the north-
ern part, and is nearly about the size of New-Holland.
The shape of the corresponding coasts of Africa and Ame-
rica would induce us to infer that the two continents of Africa
and America were once united,—the projecting or salient
part of the former fitting exactly to the Gulf of Mexico ;
and the bulging part of South America, about Paraiba and
Pernambuco, being about the size and shape to fill up the
Gulf of Guinea. This great continent has but compara-
tively few gulfs, bays, arms of the sea, and promontories;
and hence, notwithstanding its nearly insular form, its ex-
tent of coast is much less in proportion to its area, than in
other quarters of the globe. The condition of man, the
distribution of the lower animals and plants, even the cli-
mate of Africa, are intimately connected with this limited
extent of coast.
On viewing Africa from its northern boundary on the
shores of the Mediterranean, to its southern boundary at
the Cape of Good Hope, the following natural divisions or
regions present themselves to our attention :—
1. The northern region, formed by the Atlas range of
mountains, hills, and plains, that extend from the coast of
the Atlantic to the Gulf of the Syrtis,—and by the range
of fertile hills and dales, and valleys mixed with deserts, in
which are some insulated spots of verdure, known under
the name oase,* that extend from the termination of the
Atlas to Egypt.t
2. The eastern region, formed by Egypt, Abyssinia, Daz
fur, &c. } |
* The word Oasis is Egyptian, and synonymous with Auasis and
Hyasis (Strabo, Ixxili. p. Alm 1140). Abulfeda names the Oasis Al
Wahat. In latter times the Cesars banished criminals to the Oases.
They were sentenced to expiate their crimes on the islands of the Sandy
Sea, as the Spaniards and English send their criminals to the Malouin
islands and New-Holland. The latter could more easily escape by the
ocean, than the former across the surrounding deserts.
+t The Atlas of Homer and Hesiod, according to Bory St. Vincent, is
the Peak of Teneriffe; the Atlas of the:Greek and Roman geographers
the African Atlas range of aaa yf
246 GEOLOGY OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS.
3. The Desert region, which is the flat, comparatively
low tract of generally desert country, of which the principal
portion is the Great Desert of Sahara, which lies between
the 29th and 16th parallels, or about 780 miles in breadth,
and extending across the continent from the Atlantic to
the borders of Nubia.
4. The Region of Soudan, Nigritia, or the Country of the
Negroes, extending in a belt across the continent as far as
Abyssinia, and from the 16th to the 5th parallel, or about .
600 miles in breadth. It is 2 rich and fertile region, yield-
ing, with little labour, all the valuable productions of the
tropical countries.
5. Great Table-land of Africa, or High Africa.—This,
in all probability, very interesting part of Africa extends
from the zone of Nigritia to the Cape of Good Hope. It
appears to contain a lofty and extensive table-land, from
which acclivities, supporting ranges of mountains, decline -
on the east and south towards the Indian Ocean ; on thé
west to the Atlantic; and on the north to the Country of
Soudan or Nigritia. Unfortunately the whole of this great
region, with exception of the Cape of Good Hope and
the Portuguese settlements on the east and west coasts, be-
tween which they are said to keep up a communication, is
unknown to us; so that there still remains a tract of coun-
try, at the least 30 degrees of latitude by 25 of longitude,
or about 2,600,000 square geographical miles, of “which -
nothing whatever is known. Now that the thirst for
Arctic discovery has been quenched, and the public feeling
has set strongly against expeditions to Central Africa, we
trust that our government will be the first to engage in the
exploration of the great table-land of Southern Africa.
Having premised this short account of the general fea-
tures of Africa, we shall now state what is known of its |
geology and mineralogy, following in our account the oe
natural divisions already pointed out.
1. Geology of the Atlas, or Northern Region of ‘Africas
The northern division of Africa is principally characterized
by the Atlas chain of mountain-ranges, on some of the
loftiest points of which there is perpetual. snow, which gives
them a height of 12,000°to 13,000 feet above the level of
* The Egyptian, Abyssinian, and bordering African districts will be
considered in one of the succeeding volumes of this work. :
AGE OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. Q47
the sea. In it there are rocks of the primitive class, as
granite, gneiss, mica-slate, and clay-slate. Copper and
lead mines, said to occur in the primitive parts of the range,
were worked by the ancients in Morocco and Algiers, but
are at present neglected; and the same is also the case
with the antimony and tin (7) said to have been discovered
in these mountains. In Tunis, rock-crystals, graphite, or
black-lead, and also iron and galena, are met with in the
‘same kinds of rock. Although in extensive mountain-
ranges the older rocks, or those of the primitive class, gene-
rally predominate, such, according to travellers, is not the
case with the Atlas, where the most extensive deposites are
of a calcareous nature. This calcareous formation consists
principally of secondary limestones, associated with depo-
sites of sandstone. The limestone abounds with organic
remains, as of shells, corals, and even fishes; and is said
to be referable to the various limestones extending from
the lias, or even the magnesian limestone, to chalk inclu-
sive. Hence in this limestone-range there are magnesian
limestones, oolite limestones, lias limestones, Jura lime-
stones, and soft limestones resembling some kinds of chalk.
Resting upon these limestones, or where they are wantiag,
as is the case at Algiers, there are deposites of tertiary
rocks ; these are marly clays and limestones, with organic
remains resembling those met with in the tertiary deposites
on the north shore of the Mediterranean. Salt springs and
gypsum are mentioned as occurring in different parts of the
range. ‘These may be connected either with the secondary
or tertiary, or with both classes of rocks.
Trap-rocks, of a modern date, also make their appearance
among the rocks of the northern African zone. The most
extensive display of these Plutonian masses is in the lime-
stone in some districts to the south of Tripoli, where these
rocks alter the position and change the characters of the
limestone. |
Age of the Atlas Mountains.—It is conjectured, by some
geologists, that the great ranges of mountains of the earth |
have risen from below, through rents in previously existing
strata, and not all at once, but at different times; and fur-
ther, that all mountain ranges having the same general
direction have made their appeargnce from below at the
or
248 AGE OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS.
same time. ‘Thus the Pyrenees and Apennines, the moun-
tains of Dalmatia and Croatia, and the Carpathians, whith
belong to the same system,—as may be deduced from the
descriptions given of them by various geologists,—are all
disposed parallel to an arc of a great circle, which passes
through Natchez and the mouth of the Persian Gulf.
Thus, whatever may have been the cause, the mountains
in Europe, which have issued from the earth at the same
period, form chains at the surface of the globe,—that is to
say, longitudinal projections, all parallel to a certain circle
of the sphere. If we suppose, as is natural, that this rule
may be applicable beyond the limits within which it has ~
been determined, the Alleghanies of North America,—since ©
their direction is also parallel to, the great circle which
joins Natchez and the Persian Gulf,—would seem to be-
long, in respect to date, to the Pyrenean system. Elie
Beaumont has been able to verify the accuracy of this in-
ference by a careful examination of the descriptions of
American geologists. It would appear from this statement
that we might venture to conclude that the mountains of
Greece, the mountains situated to the north of the Eu-
phrates, and the chain of Gates in India, which also come
under this condition of parallelism already indicated, must
have risen, like the Alleghanies, along with the Pyrenees
and Apennines. If we apply this reasoning to the Atlas,
which we find to have the same general direction as the
Alps of Switzerland, from the Valais to Styria, and with
that of the Caucasus, the Balkan Mountains, and the Him-
maleh Mountains, we infer that these vast ranges, and also.
the Atlas, may have risen at the same period. But at
what period did this elevation take place? This can be’
answered in a general way, by remarking, that in Switzer-
land the principal chain of the Alps appears to have up-
raised all the secondary, and also the tertiary strata; hence,
according to the opinion already stated, these Swiss moun-
tains, and consequently the Atlas and other ranges, already
mentioned, may havé risen from below at a comparatively
recent period,—after the deposition of the tertiary rocks.
Allowing this hypothesis to be plausible, it could be showr
that an opinion of the ancients,—that, namely, which main
tains that the whole country between the Syrtis and th
GEOLOGY OF THE SAHARA. 249
Atlantic, over which the Atlas chain extends, was formerly
insulated, and in that state formied the celebrated Adlantis,
—is not destitute of geological probability.*
2. Geology of the Desert, or Sahara Region.—The se-
cond, or Sahara region, is eminently characterized by its
vast desert of sand, the greatest and most frightful on the
_ face of the earth. On the east it is bounded by a rocky
limestone wall to the west of the Nile, and a series of oases
and deserts extending from Darfur to the Libyan Desert :
on the north by a range of oases and the flat and interest-
ing country along the southern foot of the Atlas chain: on
the west by the ocean: and, towards the south, it ceases in
about 15° N. lat., sloping gradually down to the fertile and
well-watered country of Bornou on the east, Houssa in the
centre, and the regions to the westward of Timbuctoo.
Houssa and Bornou comprehend that region of Africa
known by the name Soudan, or Land of the Blacks.
_ The Sahara may be considered as divided into an eastern
and a western half. Its eastern and smaller halt-is more
varied by rocks, and cliffs, and oases, than the western and
larger, which forms a vast sea of moving sand, well merit-
ing the Arabian name, Sahara Bela-ma, or sea without
water. ‘The Western Sahara is bounded on the east in a
line which passes through Fezzan, extending towards the
south into Soudan, and towards the north to the Atlas.
On many parts of the seacoast it extends under the sea,
forming enormous sand banks; and along the coast there
are extensive ranges of downs or sand hills. The coast is
very dangerous, and much dreaded by seamen. Ship-
wrecks frequently take place, and the unfortunate survivors
are carried off by the savages into a state of the most de-
plorable slavery. Cape Blanco, so well known to mariners,
is not a rocky headland, but a flat sandy projecting white
tongue of land, destitute of vegetation. ‘The sand hills
continue down to Cape Verde,—a promontory distinguished
by its two lofty hills of sand, rising to a height of 600 feet,
and overlooking the smaller surrounding downs, and form-
ing a warning landmark, seen by sailors at a great distance.
* The particular geology of the Northern Region, which will include
descriptions of Morocco, Fez, Algiers Tunis, and Tripoli, will appear in
afuture volume of this Library, the present volume being confined prin-
cipally to the Central and Southern Regions of Africa.
~
250 SUBTERRANEAN VILLAGES NEAR TRIPOLI.
From the entrance of Gonzalo da Cintra, on the coast of
Barbary, to Cape Verde, all the elevated points of solid
rock are said to be of igneous origin: thus Cape Barbas,
Cape Blanco, Cape Manuel, and Cape Verde are composed
‘of basalt and lava. All the islands, too, along this west —
coast are of igneous origin.
In this vast waste there are a few oases and wadeys, or
valleys, in which springs of water are. found, and shrubby
plants, chiefly acacias, and tufts of grass. It is inhabited
only by pastoral tribes, who roam about from one oasis to
another, where a little verdure may be found. Some of
these tribes add to their scanty means of subsistence the
plunder of such feeble caravans as they may venture to
attack ; and others are employed in collecting salt and natron
for the markets of Bornou and Soudan. For hundreds of
miles not an oasis is seen, the surface being one continued
plain; in some places blown up into high ridges, in others
presenting undulations like the waves of the sea. In parts
of the Desert, insulated hills, or ridges of hills of naked sand-.
stone, sometimes also of granite, rise through the sandy
surface, appearing like so many islands in the ocean,
Account of the Line of Desert from Tripoli to the Lake
Tchad.—The line of desert, extending from Tripoli by
Mourzouk to Kouka, has been described by our former
pupil the late excellent and intelligent traveller Dr. Oudney,
and by his enterprising fellow-travellers Clapperton and
Denham. As the account is novel and interesting, we shall
now lay some details illustrative of it before our readers ;
occasionally, also, referring to the observations of another
well-known African traveller, Captain Lyon.*
Subterranean Villages.—All around Tripoli the prevail-
ing rocks are of limestone,—partly of secondary, partly, it
is said, of tertiary formation. ‘The Arab inhabitants of the
Gharian limestone mountains in Tripoli live under ground, ©
—a circumstance worthy of being particularly recorded, on
account of its connexion with the ancient history of man,
* To those interested in African adventure, we recommend an i %
teresting little volume just published, entitled, “ A Biographical Memoir
of the late Dr. Walter Oudney and Captain Hugh Clapperton, both of the
royal navy, and Major Alexander Gordon Laing, all of whom died amid
their active and enterprising endeavours to explore the interior of Africa.
By the Rev. Thomas Nelson, Member of the Wernerian Society, &c”
12mo. Edinburgh, 1830, by Waugh and Innes,
SUBTERRANEAN VILLAGES NEAR TRIPOLI. 251
and also his present condition in some countries. Captain
Lyon says,—‘* We stopped at a nest, I cannot call it a vil-
lage, where all the habitations are under ground. The
sheik, on hearing we were under the protection of the
bashaw, came to welcome us, and gave us the only hut the
place afforded, in which we placed our people and camel-
loads. As for ourselves, we preferred clearing part of the
farm-yard, and pitching our tent in it, surrounded by our
horses and camels.. This place is called Beni-Abbas. As
the natives live, as I have observed, under ground, a person
unacquainted with the circumstance might cross the moun-
tain without once suspecting that it was inhabited. All
the dwelling-places being formed in the same manner, a de-
scription of the sheik’s may suffice for the rest. The upper
soil is sandy earth, of about four feet in depth; under this
sand, and in some places limestone, a large hole is dug, to
the depth of twenty-five or thirty feet, and its breadth in
every direction is about the same, being, as nearly as can
be, a perfect square. ‘The rock is then smoothed so as to
form perpendicular sides to this space, in which doors are
cut through, and arched chambers excavated, so as to re-
ceive their light from the doors. The rooms are sometimes
three or four of a side; in others, a whole side composes
one,—the arrangements depending on the number of in-
habitants. In the open court is generally a well, water
being found at ten or twelve feet below the base of the
square. The entrance to the house is at about thirty-six
yards from the pit, and opens above ground. It is arched
overhead, is generally cut in a winding direction, and is
perfectly dark. Some of these passages are sufficiently
large to admit a loaded camel. The entrance has a strong
wall built over it, something resembling an ice-house.
This is covered overhead, and has a‘ very strong heavy
door, which is shut at night, or in cases of danger. At
about ten yards from the bottom is another door, equally
strong; so that it is impossible to enter these houses
should the inhabitants determine to resist. Few Arab at-
tacks last long enough to end in a siege. All their sheep
and poultry being confined in the house at night, the
bashaw’s army, when here, had recourse to suffocating the
inmates, being unable to starve them out.” Again, at
page 29, he says,—-“ At noon, we arrived at a cluster of
952 SUBTERRANEAN VILLAGES. —
nests about six miles from Beni-Abbas: all the habitations
of this place are of the same kind as those already: “de-
scribed.”
Colonel Silvertop, in an interesting memoir on the Le
eustrine Basins of Baza and Alhama, 1 in the New Edin-
burgh Philosophical Journal, vol. ix., gives an account of
a subterranean village called Benamaurel, in Granada in
Spain, which is on a larger scale than those mentioned by
Captain Lyon. It would probably be a difficult antiqua-
rian investigation to trace the origin of these Spanish sub-
terranean dwellings, inhabited by a considerable population
of the poorer classes in various parts of the province of
Granada. They may be observed in the outskirts of the
cities of Granada, Guadiz, and Baza; but are most nu-
merous in the villages of Benamaurel, Castillejos, Caniles,
and Cullar, where ‘they have - been excavated in the marl
strata, so extensively deposited in that basin, and in those
of Benabra, and another in the valley of Guadiz. In
Benabra, the entire population lives in caves,—the church,
the curate’s house, and the venta being the only edifices
seen above ground. In the neighbourhood of Bagnovea, in
the pope’s territories, there is a village, of which an Italian
traveller has observed, that a few stones for the purpose of
closmg the entrance of the cavern, a hole for the smoke to
go out of, and an aperture ‘to admit the light, suffice to com-
plete each habitation. In the Isle of Ponza, near the Bay
of Naples, is another town of the same description, the in-
habitants preferrmg to reside in caves, although the island
abounds in good building materials. In France, many vil-
lages of inhabited caverns still exist. Swinburne describes
a village of the same kind, which occurs in the province of
Andalusia in Spain. The natives of New-Holland and
other countries still shelter themselves in caves and ca-
verns, and in the hollows of trees. At an early period, the
inhabitants of Europe appear also to have lived principally
in natural caves and caverns, or in such as they dug in soft
rocks. - 163d vit
The subject of caves has recently attracted consider:
attention; but more on the part of the geologist than of t
antiquarian. It has been ascertained that in caves in the
south of France human remains had been found along with
bones of quadrupeds, now no longer met with ina living
.
ANCIENT_ GERMANS’ INHABITED CAVES. 253
state, either in Europe or elsewhere. The destruction of
the forests in which they found shelter, the drying up of the
lakes, on the borders of which they found their food, and
on convulsions of nature, sufficiently account, says Dr.
ibbert, for their extinction. In this view, the investigation
of the caves in which human bones are found is as much
the province of the antiquary as of the geologist. The
same geologist assumes as an hypothesis, that the tribes in-
habiting Europe, previous to the historical times, were in a
state similar to that of the Fins described by Tacitus,—as
leading an almost brutish life, destitute even of the ear-
liest rudiments of the arts. Such beings might well be
conceived to contend with the beasts, above whom they
were so little elevated, for places of shelter they knew not
how to construct ; or, at all events, they might crawl like
the beasts, or the New-Hollanders, into caves or caverns to
conceal their dying agonies. At this period the bones
could scarcely have been deposited in caves for the purpose
of inhumation, the idea of sepulture belonging to a more
advanced state. The rude fragments of earthenware found
in the same caves belonged to an extremely rude and very
early period. ‘The Celtic and Gothic tribes, who sup-
planted the aborigines of Europe, seemed to have reached
the agricultural state. The Germans are described as in-
habiting houses built of gross and unhewn materials, con-
nistiohall without the aid of mortar; and also caves, into
which they retired for shelter from the inclemency of the
winter, as do the inhabitants of some countries in Northern
Asia at present. Traces of these ancient subterraneous
habitations are still to be met with in Germany, but much
more frequently in France and Italy, where the nature of the
rock is more favourable to the task of excavation, and they
are most numerous in the south of France. Each cave ap-
pears to have been entered by a low chink or fissure, situated
almost half way between the floor of the cave and its roof,
and differing as little as possible from the level of the avenue
by which it was approached. Sometimes the caves are
isolated, sometimes they are found in groups. These caves
continued to be used even during the feudal period, as
could be proved by descriptions of caves met with in dif-
ferent parts of Europe, particularly in the south of France.
We recommend to the particular attention of travellers
254
soupan, OR BLACK MOUNTAINS.
the examination of caves and caverns, being an investiga-
tion, as appears from the preceding details, not only inti-
mately connected with the early history of man, and of his
condition in a low state of civilization even at the presect
day, but also with the geological history of our species, and
of that of several of the more powerful and interesting spe-
cies of the class of quadrupeds.
In the route from Tripoli to Mourzouk, the first change
of rock met with by Dr. Oudney was at Benioleed, * where he
remarks there is a rich valley, the sides of which are of °
limestone hills 400 feet high, capped with greenstone and
amygdaloid. The Jibel Gulat, 600 feet high, one of the
highest hills he had met with since leaving Tripoli, ; is con-
siderably to the south of Benioleed. It is composed of marls
and limestones, containing fossil oysters and limpets, form-
ing a deposite which is said to resemble the tertiary rock
named calcaire grossvére of the Paris basin, which occurs
in Malta, Sicily, and on the north side of the Mediterra-
nean, on the shores of Italy and France. These limestones
continue onwards to the valley of Bonjem,t which was
found strewed with gypsum. Captain Lyon mentions gun-
funts as occurring im the road to Bonjem; while Dr. Oud- .
ney speaks of striped j jaspers and cornelians, but does not
mention gun-flints. These rocks continue onwards to
Sockna. Ashort distance to the south of Sockna are the
Soudah or Black Mountains. 'These, Captain Lyon says,
rise to a height of 1500 feet, extend about 100 miles in
breadth from N. to S., and as far as the eye can reach from
E.to W. They are perfectly barren, of very irregular
forms, occasionally broken into detached masses, and some-
times rising into cones. ‘They are composed of trap-rocks,
said to be of the nature of basalt. After crossing this
range, the route to Mourzouk leads across gravelly and
sandy tracts, with frequent appearances of dolomite lime- ~~
stone, occasionally rolled masses of basalt, and agates, pro-
bably derived from amygdaloidal trap.t The road from
* The inhabitants of Benioleed are Arabs. The water is a
but some of the wells are 100 feet deep.—Lyon.
+ This is the northern boundary of the kingdom of Fe
are here some perfect remains of a Roman foriress, built by order ¢ f Sep
timius Severus —Lyown.
t At Sebha, a town of 800 inhabitants, the population
Arab. but black; hence Captain Lyon, in his map, says, “ sebha, Ne kar N. lat.
279 black population commences.”
PETRIFIED WOOD IN THE a 255
Mourzouk, which our travellers left on the 29th of Novem.
ber, 1822, to Traghan, the former capital of Fezzan, pre-
sented frequent inzcrustations of salt. From Traghan to
Maefen, the road lies over a mixture of clayand salt. The
path, by which all the animals move for several miles, is a
narrow space or stripe worn smooth, bearing a resemblance,
both in hardness and appearance, to ice. Near Maefen,
-it assumes a new and more beautiful shape, being traversed
‘by numerous fissures, from the sides of which, and from the
roofs of cavities several feet deep, beautiful crystals of salt
were observed shooting. The road extends more than
twenty miles east and west. ‘The water of Maefen, al-
though impregnated with soda, is not disagreeable to the
taste, or unwholesome. The continuation of the journey
from Maefen to Gatrone, which occupied two days, was
across the sand of the desert, which, it is said, was beauti-
fully fine, round, and red.* This place is surrounded by
sand hills and mounds of earth, covered with a tree called
athal. Though encamped on the south side of the town,
they had cold north and north-west winds ; and the temper-
ature in the tent was from 43° to 45° in the mornings. On-
the 9th December reached Tegerhy.t This place they
found pleasantly situated. On the 13th left Tegerhy, and
proceeded on the Desert: it was scattered with mounds
of earth and sand, covered with various shrubs, which
were greedily devoured by the camels. On the 16th reached
Ghad. On the 17th continued their journey over a stony
plain, without the least appearance of vegetation. The
exposed rocks were sandstones of different kinds, red and
black; fine specimens of petrified wood were found, in
which were observed, in the centre, sap-vessels, and knots
filled with calcareous matter, the woody fibre charged
with a siliceous substance; beautiful rays were -observed
shooting from the centre to the circumference. The
depth of a well they met with, named Meshroo, was from
15 to 20 feet; the water good, and therefore free from
saline impregnations: the ground around it was strewed
with human skeletons of the slaves who had arrived, ex-
hausted with thirst and fatigue. ‘ The horrid consequences
of the slave-trade,” says Dr. Oudney, “ were strongly
'-* Captain Lyon mentions gypsum and selenite as occurring in thia
quarter. yh
t This is the southernmost town in Fezzan.
Zz
} ita
256 ‘reer IN THE DESERT.
brought to our mind; and, although its horrors are not
equal to those of the European trade, still they are sufficient
to call up every sympathy, and rouse up every spark of hu-
manity. They are dragged over deserts; water often fails,
and also provisions scantily provided for the long and dreary
journey. The Moors ascribe the numbers destroyed to the
cruelty of the Tibboo traders: there is, perhaps, too, much
truth im this accusation. Every few miles a skeleton was .
seen through the whole day ; some were partially covered
with sand, others with only a small mound formed by the
wind ; one hand often lay under the head, and frequently
both, as if in the act of compressing the head ; the skin and
membranous substance all shrivel up and dry, from the state
of the air. Thethick muscular and internal parts only decay.”
Ranges of hills were seen to the south and east. In the
evening the party halted near a well, within half a mile of
Meshroo. Around this spot were lying more than one hun-
dred human skeletons, some of them with the skin still re-
maining attached to the bones,—not even a little sand
thrown over them. The Arabs were amused at the horror
expressed by the travellers at this sight, and said, they were
only blacks; and began knocking about the limbs with
the butt-end of their firelocks. ‘Our camels,” says Den-
ham, “did not come up until it was quite dark, and we
pivouacked in the midst of these unearthed remains of the
victims of persecution and avarice, after a long day’s jour-
hey of twenty-six miles, in the course of which one of our
party counted 107 of these skeletons.” They continued
journeying until the 21st, partly through sand and among
sandstone hills, some of which were 600 feet high. On the
22d, they moved before daylight, passing some rough sand
hills mixed with red sandstone, to the west, over a plain of
fine gravel, and halted at the matten called E] Hammar, |
close under a bluff-head, which had been in view since_
quitting their resting-place in the morning. During the
last two days they had passed, on an average, from sixty to
eighty or ninety human skeletons each day ; but the num-
bers that lay about the wells at E] Hammar were countless ;
those of two women, whose perfect and regular teeth be-
spoke them young, were particularly shocking ; their arms
still remained clasped round each other as they had expired,
although the flesh had long since perished by being exposed
My
4 |
NATRON AND SALT ie. 257
to the burning rays of the sun, and the blackened bones
only teft; the nails of the fingers, and some of the sinews
of the hand, also remained ; and part of the tongue of one
of them still appeared through the teeth. They bad now
passed six days of desert without the slightest appearance
of vegetation. On the following (24th) day, they had al-
ternate plains of loose sand and gravel, and a distant view
of some hills to the west.. ‘“ While,” says Denham, “I
was dozing on my horse about noon, overcome by the heat
of the sun, which at that time of the day always shone with
great power, I was suddenly awakened by a crashing under
his feet, which startled me excessively. I found that my
steed had stepped upon the perfect skeletons of two human
beings, cracking their brittle bones under his feet, and, by
one trip of his foot, separating a scull from the trunk, which
rolled on like aball before him. This incident gave me a
sensation which it took some time to remove.”
On the following day, 24th, the plain was observed co-
vered with slight irregularities, and strewed with pieces of
variously-coloured calcareous spar and selenite, and thick beds
of gypsum were noticed. Halted in the evening at wells
situated under a ridge of low white hills of sandstone, called
Mafrasben-Kasaretta, where there are also beds and hills of
limestone. The whole of the journey this day, 25th, was
through hills of a rather bold and picturesque character, of
dark-coloured sandstone. One day’s journey was also through
a tract partly plain, partly of sandstone hills, to a wadey
named Izhya. Here the travellers had a gale of wind for
three days; their tents were nearly buried with sand, and
were obliged to roll themselves up in blankets nearly the
whole time. They started again on the 30th, and on the
evening of the 31st halted under some low brown sand-
stone hulls. ‘The journey from Ist January to the 6th
was partly along and across a ridge of sandstone hills, in no
place more than 400 feet high. On the 6th they halted at
Tiggema, which is one of the highest points of the sand-
stone range, about 400 feet high, and hangs over the mud
houses of the town. Its sides are nearly perpendicular,
and it is detached from the other hills by a chasm. On the
8th, the route still under the range of sandstone hills, they
oe a salt lake, and farther east, at Dirkee, two natron
kes. Inthe centre of each of these lakes is a solid body
¥2
258 ¢ = OF BILMA.
or island of natron. In one lake the island is 15 feet high,
and 100 feet in circumference. The natronis associated with
muriate of soda, or common salt. On the 12th they reached
Bilma, after passing through a wadey the greater part of the
way, which exhibited many patches of saline imcrustations,
also beds of red sandstone, containing numerous nodules of
ron ore. ‘The sandstone halls exhibit, on their summits,
forms resembling ruins of towns and castles. Near to
Bilma are several salt lakes that afford very pure and well-
crystallized salt.* About a mile from Bilma is a spring of
beautiful clear water, which rises to the surface of the earth,
and waters a space of two or three hundred yards in cir-
cumference, which is covered with fresh grass ; but, pass-
ing this, the traveller must bid adieu to every appearance
of vegetable production, and enter on a desert. From Bil
ma, which was left on 16th January, the route led over loose
hills of fine sand, in which the camels sunk nearly knee-
deep. In passing the desert wilds, where hills disappear in
a single night by the drifting of the sand, and where all
traces of the passage, even of a large kafila, sometimes va-
nish in a few hours, the Tibboos have certain points in the
dark sandstone ridges which from time to time raise their
heads in the midst of this ocean of sand, and form the only
variety, and by them they steer, their course. They halted
in the evening at Kaflorum, which is a nest of hills of coarse
dark sandstone. On the 17th bivouacked under a head
called Zow (difficult), to the east of which were found se-.
veral wells. ‘This day, the 18th,” says Denham, “ the
sand hills were less high, but the animals sunk so deep that
it was a tedious day for all. Four camels of Boo Khal-
loom’s gave in; two were killed by the Arabs, and two
were left to the chance of coming up before morning. Tre-
mendously dreary are these marches; as far as the eye can
reach, billows of sand bound the prospect. On seeing the ~
solitary foot-passenger of the kafila, with his water-flask in
* Captain Lyon says,—I found no one who knew of the salt lake:
of Dombeo laid down in all the maps ; but there is abundance of salt at
Agram (which is four days’ journey from Bilma, W.S.W.), and a large
lake, on the borders ef which this article is colleeted. The Tuaricks ga
there and carry away great quantities to Soudan. This agrees with the
accounts ef Domboo; and, from the circumstance of Tuaricks going to
Agram, and the position of that place, I am led to imagine it may be the
aame Domboo, though under a different appellation.” )
;
os
DESERT OF BILMA. 259
his hand and bag of zumeeta on his head, sink at a dis-
tance beneath the slope of one of these, as he plods his
way alone, hoping to gain a few paces in his long day’s
work by not following the track of the camels, one trem-
bles for his safety: the obstacle passed which concealed
him from the view, the eye is strained towards the spot, in
order to be assured that he has not been buried quick in the
* treacherous overwhelming sand.” On the 20th, passed .
hills named Geisgal, of dark sandstone, and a table-shaped
hill in the wadey Dibla, of sandstone and slate-clay. Here
some fulgurites, or lightning-tubes, were observed in the
sand. A number of semi-vitrified small stones were found
on the sands, which the people collected to use as bullets.
The journey still across sandy deserts to an extensive wadey
called Aghadem, which they reached on the 23d. Here are
several wells of excellent water, and hills of sandstone.
From thence crossed the sand desert of Tintuma. On the
27th, “we,” says Denham, “ appeared gradually approach-
ing something like vegetation. We had rising sands and
clumps of fine grass the whole way, and the country was |
not unlike some of our heaths in England.” 'Towards eve-
ning the trees increased in number ; and when the travellers
halted, the animals found abundance of food. The spot
where they halted is called Geogo Balwy. They continuel
their route across sands and through valleys, bounded by
low sandstone hills, and by some salt lakes. As they ap-
proached the great fresh-water lake Tchad, the country im-
proved much in appearance, owing to the increase of soil,
and consequently of vegetation. On the 4th February,
they came in sight of this great lake. On February 5th,
_ reached Lari, on the shore of the Great Lake. On the 6th,
the freed slaves, natives of Kanem, left them for their
homes, three days’ journey to the eastward. One poor deaf
and dumb woman, whom the rapacity of Mukni, the former
sultan of Fezzan, who spared neither age, sex, nor infirmity,
had induced him to march to Tripoli, had shed torrents of
tears ever since she had been made acquainted, by signs,
that she was to go to Bornou. She had left two children
behind her, and the third, which was in her arms when she
was taken by the Arabs, had been torn from her breast
after the first ten days of her journey across the Desert, in
order that she might keep up with thecamels. Her expres-
:
260 BASE OF TIE SAHARA.
sive motions, says Denham, in describing the manner in
which the child was forced from her and thrown on the
sand, where it was left to perish, while whips were applied
to her, lame and worn out as she was, to quicken her tot-
tering steps, were intensely affecting. After travelling
through a wooded and beautiful country, they, on February
17th, reached Kouka. This was to the travellers an im- |
portant day, as they were now about to become acquainted
with a people who had never seen, or scarcely heard of an
European.
In a journey which was undertaken to Mandara, the
whole country to Affagay was found to be alluvial. Den-
ham crossed part of a great range of mountains, named the
Mandara hills, at the most southern limit of this journey.
He says, “On all sides the apparently interminable chain
of hills closed upon our view in rugged magnificence and
gigantic grandeur, though not to be compared with the
higher Alps, the Apennines, or even the Sierra Morena, in
magnitude ; yet by none of these were they surpassed in
picturesque effect.” This range of mountains was found
to contain granite, mica-slate, hornblende rock, and ores of
iron. There were observed on the southward lower ranges
of newer formation, consisting of conglomerated rocks
abounding in fossil oyster-shells.
On what Formation does the Sand of the Desert rest ?—It
is a question with geologists, on what formation or forma-
tions does the sand of the Desert rest? "We have not data
sufficient for a very satisfactory answer to this question.
Judging, however, from the details of travellers, we would
infer that the predominating formations are of the second-
ary class of rocks. ‘The secondary formations met with are,
red and variegated sandstone, with gypsum and salt, and
white and gray sandstone sometimes disposed in fantastic .
forms. The salt in some places is seen in thick beds, along
with red or variegated sandstones. Limestones of various
ilescriptions, that appear to belong to the Jura limestone
formation, are met with. Besides those already enume:
rated, there occur other limestones, clays, and gypsums,
belonging to the tertiary class, from which salt springs
issue. But not only these softer rocks appeared rising
through the sands of the Desert; also harder rocks, as
greenstone, amygdaloid, and granite, in some places project,
DESCRIPTION OF A TRONA LAKE. 261
although rarely in isolated rocks, ridges, and cliffs. From
these details it appears that the general basis of the Desert
consists of secondary rocks, principally sandstone and
limestone. P
Description of a Trona or Natron Lake.—Natron or trona,
as already mentioned, is found in various parts of the Desert,
but principally in its eastern half. Dr. Oudney describes,
in the following terms, in a letter to us, afterward printed
in Denham’s Travels, the wadey Trona he passed through
in his journey from Tripoli to Mourzouk :—“ Monday, July 8.
—We entered the wadey Trona early this morning, on
the north-east side. Near where we entered there are a
cluster of date palms, and a small lake, from which impure
trona is obtained. On the western side the trona lake is
surrounded with date-trees, and its marshy borders are
covered on almost all sides by grass and a tall juncas. It
is about half a mile long, and nearly 200 yards wide. At
present it is of inconsiderable depth, from the evaporation
of the water; for many places are dry now, which are
_ covered in the winter and spring. The trona crystallizes at
the bottom of the lake when the water is sufficiently satu-
rated ; for when the water is in large quantities it eats the
trona, as the people say. The cakes vary in thickness
from a fine film to several inches (two or three). The
thickest at present is not more than three-fourths of an
inch; but in the winter, when the water begins to increase,
it is of the thickness I have mentioned. The surface next
the ground is not unequal from crystallization, but rough to
_ the feel from numerous small rounded asperities. That
next the water is generally found studded with numerous
emall, beautiful cubical crystals of muriate of soda; the
line of junction is always distinct, and the one is easily
removed from the other. When not covered with muriate
of soda, the upper surface shows a congeries of small
tabular pieces joined in every direction. When the mass is’
broken, there is a fine display of reticular crystals, often
finely radiated. The surface of the water is covered in
many places with large thin sheets of salt, giving the whole
the appearance of a lake partially frozen over; film after
film forms till the whole becomes of great thickness. Thus
may be cbseryed, on the same space, trona and cubical
262 SAND OF THE DESERT:
crvstals of muriate of soda: and. on the surface of the
water, films accumulating till the whole amounts to a con-
siderable thickness. The soil of the lake is dark-brown
muddy sand, approaching to black, of a viscid consistence
and slimy feel; and, on the lately uncovered surface of
the banks, a black substance, something like mzneral tar, is
seen oozing out. The water begins to increase in winter,
and is at its height inthe spring. In the beginning of the
_ winter the trona is thickest and best ; but in the spring it
disappears entirely. The size of the lake has diminished
considerably within the last nine years, and, if care be not
taken, the diminution will be still more considerable; for
plants are making rapid encroachments, and very shallow
banks are observable in many places. On making inquiry,
I found the quantity of trona has not sensibly diminished
for the lastten years. Perhaps it may appear so, from there
always being sufficient to answer every demand. The
quantity annually carried away amounts to between 400 and
500 camel-loads, each amounting to about 4 cwt.,—a large
quantity, when the size of the lake is taken into account.
It is only removed from the lake when a demand comes.
A man goes in, breaks it off in large pieces, and those on
the banks remove the extraneous matter, and pack it in
large square bundles. The water in the valley is good,
teing free from saline impregnation.”—Clapperton, Den-
ham, and Oudney’s Journal, p. 57.
Fulgurite and Meteoric Iron found in the Désert.—In some
parts of the Desert, tubes of sand, resembling those found
at Drigg, in Cumberland, and in different sandy districts on
the continent of Europe, are met with. They. are named
fulgurites, or lightning-tubes, by naturalists, and are su
posed to be formed by the lightning striking through the
sand, and partially melting portions of it. Masses of me-
teoric iron also have been met with in the Desert. Gol-
berry, in his journey through Western Africa, in the years
1805-7, mentions his having found a mass of meteoric iron
in the Desert. Fragments of it were brought to Europe
by Colonel O’Hara, and were analyzed by Mr. Howard, who
found it composed of ninety-six parts of iron and four of
nickel. - aa
Observations on the Sand of the Desert.—-Having now
PILLARS OF SAND IN THE DESERT. 263
noticed the rocks and some of the minerals met with in the
‘Desert, we shall next attend to the sand of which it is
principally composed. The loose alluvial matter which
forms the sand of the Desert is principally composed of
particles of white and gray quartz of various sizes, gene-
rally very small, forming the sand, properly so called, seldom
so large as to form gravel and pebbles. Some are of opi-
‘nion that this sand is an original deposite ; others, that it is
formed from previously existing rocks through the agency
of water. ;
Moving Pillars of Sand in the Desert.—During the storms
that often rage in this Desert, the sand is raised into clouds
that obscure the horizon, or it is by whirlwinds raised into
pillars. Bruce describes an appearance of this kind, which
he witnessed in his journey through the eastern part of
the Desert, in his route to Abyssinia, in the following terms :
—‘ At one o’clock we alighted among some acacia-trees at
Waadi-el-Halboub, having gone twenty-one miles. We
were here at once surprised and terrified by a sight, surely
one of the most magnificent in the world. In that vast ex-
panse of Desert, from west to north-west of us, we saw a
number of prodigious pillars of sand at different distances,
at times moving with great velocity, at others stalking on
with majestic slowness. At intervals we thought they were
coming in a very few minutes to overwhelm us, and small
quantities of sand did actually more than once reach us;
again they would retreat, so as to be almost out of sight,
their tops reaching the very clouds ; then the tops often sepa-
rated from the bodies, and these, once disjoined, dispersed
in air, and did not appear more ; sometimes they were broken
in the middle, as if they were struck with large cannon-
shot. At noon they began to advance with considerable
swiftness upon us,—the wind being very strong at north.
Eleven ranged alongside of us, about the distance of three
miles ; the greatest diameter of the largest appeared to me
at that distance as if it would measure ten feet. They
retired from us with a wind at south-east, leaving an
impression on my mind to which I can give no name,
though surely one ingredient in it was fear, with a con-
siderable deal of wonder and astonishment. It was in
vain to think of flying; the swiftest herse would be of no
264 SAND AFFECTED BY WINDS.
use to carry us out of this danger, and the full conviction of
this riveted meto the spot.” A similar account of these
moving pillars of sand is given by M. Adanson, who had
an opportunity of observing one of them crossing the river
Gambia from the Great Desert. It passed within eighteen
or twenty fathoms of the stern of the vessel, and seemed to
measure ten or twelve feet in circumference, and about 250
feet in height. Its heat was sensibly felt at the distance of
100 feet, and it left a strong smell, more like that given out
by saltpetre than sulphur, and which remained a long time.
Sand-wind.—The overpowering effects of a sudden
sand-wind, when nearly at the border of the Desert, often
destroy a whole kafila, already weakened by fatigue.
“Indeed,” says Denham, ‘the sand-storm we had the
misfortune to encounter in crossing the Desert gave us a
pretty correct idea of the dreaded effects of these hurri-
canes. ‘The wind raised the fine sand, with which the ex-
tensive Desert was covered, so as to fill the atmosphere,
and render the immense space before us impenetrable to .
the eye beyond a few yards. The sun and clouds were
entirely obscured, and a suffocating and oppressive weight
accompanied the flakes and masses of sand which, I had
almost said, we had to penetrate at every step. At times
we completely lost sight of the camels, though only a few
yards before us. The horses hung their tongues out of
their mouths, and refused to face the clouds of sand. A
parching thirst oppressed us, which nothing alleviated.”
How the prevailing Winds affect the Sand of the Desert.
—The prevailing winds in the Sahara are the easterly and
westerly,—the first blows nine months, the second but three
months. This circumstance is intimately connected with
the motions and distribution of the sand of the Desert. In
the eastern half of the Sahara the sand is more gravelly,
and the general cover of sand shallower than in the western
half; so that, in travelling towards the west, the depth of
the sand and the completeness of the sandy covers in-
creases. This distribution of the sand is probably owing
to the easterly wind, which blows so much longer than the
westerly, carrying the sand before it from the East Sahara.
To the same cause we may refer the less frequent appear-
ance of rocks, the gradual diminution in magnitude and of
GEOLOGY OF NIGRITIA. 265
frequency of oases, even their total destruction by blowing
sand as we advance westward.*
What is the Geognostical Age of the Sahara?—Many are
of opinion that the Sahara must at one time have been the
bed of the ocean. The very frequent saline impregnation
of the sand, the rolled pebble and sands mixed with sea-
shells at the foot of the southern acclivity of the Atlas and
other parts of the Desert, are considered as in favour of this
hypothesis. At what period did this great tract rise above
the waves of the ocean? This can only be guessed at by
an attentive examination of the junctions of the sandstones,
limestones, &c. with the bounding primary ranges of the De-
sert. If they are the same on the south side as on the north
or Atlas side, then it would follow that the Desert rose above
the sea at the time when the Atlas made its appearance
from below ; that is, after the deposition of the tertiary
tocks,—at a period when the earth and its animals and
vegetables were nearly the same as at present.
3. Geology of the Region to the South of the Sahara, and
to the North of the Great Table-land.—This is the Land of
the Negroes, called also Soudan or Nigritia. The high
land on the west of this part of Africa is partly accumu-
lated around the sources of the:rivers Senegal, Gambia,
Rio Grande, and Niger or Joliba. From the sources of the
Niger the mountains run eastwards, under the name Kong
Mountains, across Africa, when at length they are said to
form a junction with the Mountains of the Moon, that range
onward and join with the vast alpine land of Abyssinia.
Parts of this boundary are-very lofty, some mountains of the
Kong chain attaining an elevation of 14,000 feet above the
level of the sea. From the meager details of travellers nm
regard to this part of Africa, all we can infer is, that the
nfountains on the west and along the south of this zone
contain primitive rocks of various descriptions, as granite,
mica-slate, clay-slate, quartz rock, hornblende rock, lime-
stone, &c. In different parts these rocks seem traversed
by augite greenstone or secondary traps. The secondary
sandstones and limestones connected with these ranges not
having been accurately described, we cannot venture any
* The Jong continuance of the easterly in comparison of the westerly
wind, may explain how it happens that the whole country of Egypt has
not ere this *eer swallowed up by — sand-flood of the Desert.
)
266 AFRICAN GOLD.
conjecture as to their geological nature. At Gambia there
is only sand; but opposite the town there are islands of
red decomposed granite. At Goree the rock is a fine
basalt, which takes a regular prismatic form, similar to the
Giants’ Causeway.*
Vast tracts of flat country, partly rich and cultivated,
partly desert and sandy, extend to the eastern limit, m-
cluding Soudan, of which the great kingdoms are Houssa
and Bornou. In the flat and desert regions, salt lakes and
natron lakes, and salt and niatron springs, are met with.
Beds of rock-salt occur in different places, as at Teleg,
north of Timbuctoo, half a day’s.journey from Taudeny.
From this place is exported all the salt from Timbuctoo to
Jenne, and from that town to Soudan. The salt is there
disposed in beds several feet thick: it is mined into large
slabs, which are afterward sawn into blocks for the market.
These mines form the riches of the country.
African Gold.—This continent, as is well known, affords
a considerable quantity of gold, which is found in the form ~
of rolled pieces, or in minute grains, named gold dust, in
the alluvium of rivers, lakes, valleys, and the wide-spread-
ing sand of the vast Desert. ‘The northern parts of Africa
afford but little gold; while in the countries to the south
of the Great Desert, there are tracts remarkable for the
quantity of gold they contain. Thus the flat country, which
extends from the foot of the mountains in which are situ-
ated the sources of the Gambia, Senegal, and Niger, has,
from an early period, afforded gold. Bambouk, which is
situated to the north-west of these mountains, furnishes the
greatest part of the gold which is sold on the western coast
of Africa, as well as that which is brought to Morocco,
Fez, Algiers, Cairo, and Alexandria. The gold, as is often
the case, is accompanied with grains of iron ore, probably -
the magnetic or black iron ore. Gold mines occur to the
south of Timbuctoo. The people employed in these mines
are Bambarra negroes, who become wealthy, as all the
particles of gold under a certain weight (12 mizams) belong
to them. Pieces of gold, weighing several ounces, a1
sometimes found there. The country of Kordofan, to the
south-east of the Great Desert, affords a considerable qutintity
* Geol. Tr., vol. i., New Series, p. 418.
THOMAS PARK’S ACCOUNT OF ACCRA. 267
of gold. The precious metal found in that country is
_ brought to market by the negroes, in quills of the ostrich
and vulture. This territory, it would appear, was known
to the ancients, who regarded Ethiopia as a country rich in
gold. Sulphur is said to occur in Darfur.
4. Great Table-land of Africa.—Of the table-land itself
we know very little,—the geological details we are now to
lay before our readers being principally illustrative of the
mountain-ranges and acclivities that surround this elevated
plateau.
Geology of the Coast from Sierra Leone to Cape Negro.
—We shall trace the geological phenomena from Sierra
Leone to Cape Negro. The hills around Sierra Leone are
of granite, or rather of a porphyritic granitic syenite, in
which tourmaline crystals occur.* We know nothing
whatever of the geology of the Grain Coast and Ivory
Coast of Guinea. The Gold Coast is so named from the
great trade in gold dust carried on there, which has given
rise to many European settlements. We are told that in
the interior there are mountains of granite, gneiss, and
quartz, and that the gold is collected from the alluvial sands
and clays formed from these rocks. Nothing particular is
known of the rocks or soils of the Slave Coast.
Our young friend and pupil, Thomas Park, son of the
celebrated but unfortunate Mungo Park, possessing the
enthusiasm and courage of his father, determined on tra-
versing Africa, with the view of ascertaining the history of
his father’s fate, at that time in some degree unknown, and
also of enlarging our knowledge of its natural history and _
geography. He was landed by order of government at
Accra, on the west coast, in 5° N. The last letter we re-
ceived from this promising young traveller,—for shortly
after the commencement of his journey he perished,—was
as follows :—* Accra, 17th September, 182'7.—I intend to
set off to-morrow morning. I have been, as you know,
three months here, during which time I have been princi-
pally busy with the study of the Ashantee language. Some
time ago I made an excursion cf about fifty miles into the
interior, by way of experiment, and did not fail to look
around me and notice the rocks and other natural produce
* Geol. Tr., vol.i., New Series, p. 418.
268 GEOLOGY OF BENIN AND ANGuaA
fions. TI have only time to say, that the valley of Accra is
about 12 miles in breadth, and 50 miles in length; the
bottom is covered with a soft sandstone, and this sandstone,
in one place, was observed resting upon clay-slate. The
mountains forming the sides of this long valley, as far as I
could observe, appear composed of quartz rock and clay-
slate, alternating with each other, and disposed in strata
ranging S.S.W. and N.N.E., the dip from 30° to 80° (the
direction of the dip not mentioned). The guartz rock con-
tains grains of gold, as I ascertained by careful examination.
In some blocks of rock (syenzte) I noticed a good many crys-
tals of sphene, and in one place saw what I considered to
be black manganese ore. It is very hard and heavy, and
is fashioned by the Ashantees into balls . The cover of
alluvium, in the bottom of the valley and extending down to
the seacoast, is of such a nature as to lead me to conjecture
that it is of marine origin, and, therefore, that the sea for-
merly extended a long way inland. The bases of the hills
are richly clothed with trees; but these diminish in num-
ber towards the coast, where there occurs only a bush here
and there.”
The occurrence of gold in the quartz rock, as pene le
by Mr. Park, is a very interesting observation, as it allows
us to infer that probably much of the gold collected in
Africa may have been derived originally from this kind of
rock, which, in its broken down and disintegrated state,
may have formed the sands and gravels in which gold dust
is generally found.
In Benin there are mountains (those of Cameroon on the
seacoast) said to be 12,000 feet high. The Congo district,
through which the Zaire flows, was examined for some dis-
tance up the river. The rocks met with were granite,
syenite, primitive greenstone, gneiss, mica-slate, clay rst
and prunitive limestone or marble. ‘
The kingdom of Angola contains salt pits, from which
are extracted large slabs of solid rock-salt. According to
Battel, beds of rock-salt, three feet thick, extend over ihn
siderable part of the province of Dembea. .
The mines of Loango and Benguela furnish good i iron.
Copper and silver ores are said also to occur in
particularly in the kingdom of Majomba. There are also
some considerable mines of copper in Anziko.
DISTRIBUTION OF MOUNTAINS, ETC. 269
;
Bamba, situated on the coast, has large salt pits. Its
mountains, rich in metals, extend as far as Angola. The
‘province of Sandi contains ores of iron and of yellow cop-
per ore.
‘The coast from Cape Negro, in lat. 16° S., to the mouth
of the Orange River, an extent upwards of one thousand
miles, consists of sand hills, without a tree or drop of
water, having in this great space only three bays, which
are completely exposed to the north-west wind, viz. the
Great Fish Bay, Walvisch Bay, and Angra Pequina. The
geology of this coast is entirely unknown.
Cape of Good Hope District.—This district is bounded
on the north and east by the Orange and Fish Rivers; on
the west and south by the ocean. ‘The country,.extends
from S. lat. 26° to S. lat. 33° 55’ 40”, that of the Cape of
Good Hope. It includes the country inhabited by the
Hottentot race and the Boshuanas. *
Distribution of the Chains of Mountains, Plains, and Vail-
leys or Kloofs.—Two great chains of mountains run paral-
lel with the western coast, having between them and the
coast a sandy plain from-five to ten miles in breadth. From
the most easterly of these two chains branch off three
others, running in a direction parallel with the equator,
between which are the like number of terraces, including
altogether a space of between two and three degrees of
latitude. The two southernmost of these chains are united
at several points with the western, and form the vast
‘ridges which, under the names Zwartebergen or Black
Mountains, run like a steep wall from west to east, broken
only at intervals by the streams which flow from them from
the Karroo. The two principal of these chains terminate
at Kromme Rivers’ Bay and at Algoa Bay. Smaller.
branches run down to Mossel Bay and Plattenbergs Bay.
The level country between the southern chain and the coast
constantly decreases in breadth, from the spot where this
chain branches off from the western mountains till it is lost
near Kromme Rivers’ Bay. ‘Towards the north several
long and spacious valléys run between the chains of the
Black Mountains, the principal of which are, the Kokman’s
Kloof, Kango, the Valley of the Elephant River, and Long
Kloof. Itis only ata few points, and even at these not without
some danger and difficulty, 7; the Black Mountains can
4 2
270 DISTRIBUTION OF MOUNTAINS, ETC.
de crossed to the terrace north of them, and which is some
thousand feet higher than the other two terraces, known
under the name Great Karroo.* _'Thetract enclosed between
these two chains of mountains is partly fertile, but inter-
spersed with tracts of arid clay-land called Karroo. This
plain or terrace, forming the third terrace of Souther Africa,
about 300 miles in length and 80 in breadth, and principally
a parched desert, occupies the whole of that very large
space lying between the Black Mountains and the third
great branch from the western hills, called the Nieuweveld
Mountains. These latter again unite themselves, after run-
ning for a long extent from west to east, with another chain
of mountains running from north to south, forming at their
junction that remarkable group of mountains called the
Sneuwbergen or Snow Mountains. The Nieuweveld and
Sneuwberg Mountains are said to be the highest in Southern
Africa, some of them being 10,000 feet above the level of
the sea. The country, from this vast range of mountains
to the northern boundary of the Cape Colony, may be con-
sidered as a lofty plain, part indeed of the great Table-land
of Africa, free from large mountains, but here and there
varied with ranges and hills of moderate dimensions, having
very few rivers, and all of these nearly dried up in summer :
quite destitute of trees and grass, but every where covered
with bushes springing out of a naked red soil, deprived of
moisture during a great part of the year. ‘The bushes are
not more than a foot or two in height, excepting various
kinds of lycium, and almost exclusively belong to the natu-
ral order of composite flowers. One general cast of fea-
tures, not peculiar, however, to this district, pervades all
these vegetables,—a minute and arid foliage. Yet on these
all the cattle browse, and such wild animals as are herbivo-
rous. The mountains vary in form; the most prevalent
shape is the tabular; and of these splendid displays occur
in many parts of the country, which are well represented
in the plates in Professor Lichtenstein’s Travels, and also
in those of Mr. Burchell. Deep and extensive cliffs are of
frequent occurrence, exhibiting all the magnificent scenery
so characteristic of the great sandstone or quartz formation,
* The word Karroo, written Karro by Burchell, belongs to the Hot-
tentot language, and signifies dry or arid. .
KARROO PLAINS. 271
‘which predominates in Southern Africa. The mountain-
ranges are in many places traversed by deep valleys, named
kloofs. These are the passes that lead across from one part
of the country to the other, and which appear to have been
originally vast rents, which have become wider by the action
of the atmosphere and running water. The inclined plain,
or space between the most southern range of mountains and
the seacoast, varies from 20 to 60 miles in breadth, and,
reckoning from the interior of the country, forms the third
terrace of Southern Africa. The flat tract enclosed between
the southern chain and the Zwarteberg forms the second
terrace. ‘The vast tract, or the Great Karroo, contained
between the Zwarteberg and the Nieuweveld Gebirgte, is
the first terrace. The second and first terraces, which con-
tain so-much Karroo ground, may formerly have been inland
seas or lakes.. The great bank of gravel, sand, and clay
which ranges along the coast and under the sea, from the
‘Cape of Good Hope to Natal, and to south lat. 37°, may be
considered as another terrace.
Description of the Karroo Plains.—The Karroo ground,
which forms so striking a feature in the external aspect of
the Cape district, is loam or sandy clay, mixed with parti-
«les of ochre of iron. Lichtenstein says it is not more than
a foot in thickness. This may apply to some, but by no
means to the greater number of localities. From the nature
of the soil, and other concomitant causes, the vegetation
must at all times be very meager; and in summer, when
the sun has dried the soil to the hardness of brick, it ceases
almost entirely. The mesembryanthemum, and some other
succulent plants; some kinds of gorteria, of bergia, and of
asters, whose roots, like the bulbs of lilacious plants, nature
has fortified with a tenfold net of fibres under the upper
rind, to protect them against the hardened clay : such plants
alone resist the destructive nature of this inhospitable soil.
As soon as, in the cooler season, the rains begin to fall
and penetrate into the hard layer of loam, these fibres im-
bibe the moisture, and, pushing aside the clay, the germ
of the plant, under their protection, begins to shoot, and in
a few days the arid waste is covered with a delicate green
covering. Soon after, myriads of flowers ornament the
whole surface. ‘The mild midday sun,” says Lichten-
stein, “expands the radiated crowns of the mesembryan-
272 KARROO PLAINS.
themums and gorterie, and the: young green of the plants
is almost hidden by the glowing colours of their full-blown |
flowers, while the whole air is perfumed with the most
fragrant odour. The odour is more particularly delightful,
when, after a calm day, the sun declines, and the warm
breath of the flowers rests quietly on the plain. At this,
time the whole dreary desert is transformed into one con-
tinued garden of flowers. The colonist, with his herds
and his flocks, leaves the Snowy Mountains, and, descending
into the plain, there finds a plentiful and wholesome supply
of food for the animals; while troops of the tall ostrich
and the wandering antelope, driven also from the heights,
share the repast, and enliven the scene. But how soon is
the country again deprived of all its glory! It scarcely
continues more than one month, unless late rains, which
must not often be expected, call forth the plants again into
new life. As the days begin to lengthen, the increasing
power of the midday ray checks once more the lately awa-
kened powers of vegetation. The flowers soon fade and
fall, the stems and leaves dry, and the hard coat of soil
locks up the germs until the rains return; the succulent
plants alone still furnish food for the herds and flocks. The
streams soon begin to dry, the springs almost cease to flow, |
till at length the universal drought compels the colonists te
return to the mountains ; yet even then they quit the plain
with reluctance, and the flocks, accustomed to endure thirst, .
still linger behind, feeding on the succulent plants, which
afford at once food and drink, and are particularly salutary
to those that bear wool. Every day, however, the Karroo «
becomes more and more solitary, and by the end of Sep-
tember it is wholly deserted. The hardened clay bursts
into a thousand cracks, which evince to the traveller the
great power of an African sun. Every trace of verdure is
vanished, and the hard red soil is covered over witha brown ~
dust, formed from the ashes of the dried and withered
plants. Yet among these ashes is the seed nourished that
is to produce future generations, and the relics of one year’s
vegetation furnishes manure that is to cherish the germam
the next year’s rain again brings them forth.” |
Lichtenstein thus describes his first view of the Great
Karrov :—‘ The space between the mountain-ranges is the
Great Karroo. as it is called a parched and arid sae
GEOGNOSY OF THE CAPE PENINSULA. 2/3
stretching out to such an extent that the vast hills by which
it is terminated are almost lost in the distance. The beds
of numberless little rivers cross, like veins, in a thousand
directions, this enormous space; the course of them might
in some places be clearly distinguished by the dark-green of
the mimosas which spread along their banks. Excepting
these, nowhere, as far as the eye could reach, was a tree
to be seen, nor even a shrub, or any signs whatever
of life.” | tages
As the geology of the country in the vicinity of Cape
Town is that best known to us of any part of Southern
Africa, we shall first describe the arrangements observed in
that quarter, and afterward notice what is known of the
rocks of other parts of this division of Africa.
Geognosy of the Peninsula of the Cape of Good Hope.—
The peninsula of the Cape of Good Hope is a mountainous
ridge, stretching nearly north and south for forty or fifty
miles, and connected on the east side, and near its northern
extremity, with the main body of Africa, by a flat sandy
isthmus, about ten miles broad, having Table Bay on the
north of it, and False Bay on the south. The southern ex-
tremity of this peninsula, extending into the sea, with
False Bay on the east, and the ocean on the south and west,
_is properly the Cape of Good Hope, and is nearly the most
southern point of Africa. At this point the chain of moun-
tains which forms the peninsula, though rugged, is lower
than at the north end, where it is terminated by Table
Mountain and two others, which form an’ amphitheatre
overlooking Table Bay, and opening to the north. The
mountains of the ridges extending from the Cape to the
termination of the peninsula in the north, vary in shape;
but the most frequent forms incline more or less to sharp
conical. The three mountains that terminate the peninsula
on the north are, the Table Mountain in the middle; the
Lion’s Head, sometimes called the Sugar Loaf, on the west
side; and the Devil’s Peak on the east. The Lion’s
Head, which is about 2160 feet above the level of the sea,
is separated from the Table Mountain by a valley that de-
scends to the depth of 1500 or 2000 feet below the summit
of the Table Mountain, which is itself 3582 above the level
of the sea. On the west of the Lion’s Head there isa
lower eminence, named the Lion’s Rump, 1142 feet high,
274 | GEOGNOSY OF THE CAPE PENINSOLA.
from which the ground declines gradually tothe sea. The
amphitheatre formed by these three mountains is about five
' or six miles in diameter, in the centre of which is ‘a
Cape Town.
The rocks of which this peninsula is composed ¢ are few i in
number, and of simple structure. They are granite, gneiss,
clay-slate, greywacke, quartz rock, sandstone, and augite-
greenstone, or dolerite. Of these the most abundant are
granite and sandstone ; the next in frequency are clay-slate
and greywacke ; and the least frequent are gneiss and do-
lerite. In some parts, as at_the Steinberg, the sandstone is
traversed by veins of red iron ore. Abel mentions a vein
six feet wide, and extending for upwards of one hundred
feet.
The strata of the Neptunian rocks, or those whose forma-
tion is connected with the operation of water, generally
range from west to east,—that is, across the peninsula. -
The southern and middle parts of the peninsula have been
but imperfectly examined. Captain Hall remarks, that the
same general structure and relations seem to occur all over
the peninsula as in the mountains around Cape Town.
The late Dr. Clarke Abel, in the account of his voyage to
China, gives the following description of a fine display of
stratification in a mountain that faces the sea, in the neigh-
bourhood of Simon’s Bay, which was pointed out to him
by one of our pupils, an active and intelligent officer, Cap-
tain Wauchope, R. N. :—‘ The sandstone forming the
upper part of the mountain is of a reddish colour, very
crystalline in its structure, and approaching, in some speci-
mens, to quartz rock. Immediately beneath the sandstone
is a bed of compact dark-red argillaceous sandstone, passing,
in many places, into slate of the same colour. This bed
rests upon another of very coarse loosely-combined sand-
stone, resembling gravel. Under this is another layer of
dark-red sandstone, terminating in a conglomerate, consist-
ing of decomposed crystals of felspar, and of rounded and
angular fragments of quartz, from the size of a millet-seed
to that of a plover’s egg, imbedded in a red sandstone base.
Beneath the conglomerate commences a bed, which I at
first took for granite, and which is composed of the consti-
tuents of granite in a decomposed state, intermixed with
green steatite, and a suflicient quantity of the red sandstone
THE LION’S RUMP. 275
to give it a reddish hue. The felspar of the bed is decom-
posed, and exactly resembles that of the conglomerate
above it. ‘The mica seems, in a good measure, to have
passed into steatite. ‘whe quartz is in small crystals, fre-
quently having their angles rounded. This bed is several
feet in thickness, and gradually terminates in the granite ;
but the precise line of junction I was unabletotrace. The
appearances thus were in the following order :—
1. Horizontally-stratified sandstone.
2. Bed of compact dark-red sandstone, passing into
slate. .
3. A bed of coarse sandstone resembling gravel. .
4, A second layer of compact dark-red sandstone, passing,
5. Into aconglomerate, consisting of decomposed crystals
of felspar, and fragments of quartz in a sandstone basis.
6. A bed composed of the decomposed constituents of
granite and red sandstone, passing,
7. Into granite.”
- The above is the only spot to the southward of the range
of mountains near Cape Town which has been particularly
described in a geognostical view. ‘To the northward of
Cape Town, it is said that the mountains are principally
composed of the same rocks as those which ocenr through-
out the peninsula, and whose characters and position have
‘been examined with considerable attention in the Lion’s
Rump, Lion’s Head, Table Mountain, and Devil’s Peak, by
our pupils the tate Dr. Clarke Abcl, Dr. Adam, now of
Calcutta, the late Captain Carmichael, and also by Captain
Basil Hall. From the observations furnished to us by these
naturalists, and also from accounts published by them, we
have drawn up the following description :—
Lion’s Rump.—The Lion’s Rump rises by an easy
ascent, and, excepting at one or two points, is covered to
the summit with a thin soil, bearing a scanty vegetation.
Dr. Adam informs us that vegetables appeared to be most
luxuriant over the sandstone of the peninsula, but less so
on the soil formed by the decomposition of the granite, and,
least of all, over clay-slate, as on the Lion’s Rump, where
_ clay-slate is the predominating rock. Although this latter
hill has been cultivated in some places, yet it presents a
276 THE LION’S HEAD.
stunted vegetation; while the upper part of Lion’s Head
and Table Mountain, though much more elevated, display
rich and more vigorous shrubs.* It is composed of clay-
slate, greywacke, and sandstone. The clay-slate and grey-
wacke appear to alternate, and the sandstone rests upon
the slate. The slate is distinctly stratified; the strata on
one side of the hill dip to the north, on the opposite to the
south, and in the middle or centre of the hill they are
nearly perpendicular. Numerous veins of compact quartz
traverse the strata in all directions. A quarry, which has
been wrought to a considerable extent on the east side of
the hill, exhibits a fine view of the structure of the clay-
slate, and in one place there is a bed of sandstone in the
slate. 'The sandstone, which is of a yellowish-gray colour,
is composed of grains of quartz, with disseminated felspar
and scales of mica.
Lion’s Head.—The strata of clay-slate continue to the
base of the Lion’s Head. Here they are succeeded by
strata of compact gneiss, composed of gray felspar and
quartz, with much dark-brown mica in small scales. It
much resembles the gneiss interposed between granite and
clay-slate in the transition mountains in the south of Scot-
land; as at Criffel, and near New Galloway in Kirkeud-
brightshire. The gneiss is distinctly stratified, and the
strata in some places dip under the next rock, which is gra-
nite ; in others, they dip from it. Numerous transitions are
observed from the granite into the gneiss; and in the same
bed of compact gneiss, one part will be gneiss, while another
will be granite. Beds of granite, in some places, appear
to alternate with the gneiss. Veins of granite, from a
few inches in width to several feet, traverse the gneiss and
clay-slate, and are observed projecting from the body of the
granite, and shooting among the neighbouring slaty strate.
* Constantia, so celebrated for its wine, is situated at the bottom of
the range leading from Cape Town to Simon’s Bay, where sandstone is
the predominating rock; and the soil of the farms of the nelghhentng
ground appears to be composed of it, in a state of decomposit:on, il
vegetable mould. ‘That it is the sandstone which essentially contribt
to the excellence of the soil Dr. Adam is inclined to believe, from having
observed several spots at the foot of the same range, nearer Cape
with a soil richer in vegetabe mould, but whose produce was held much
inferior. The principal rock there was granite, and its superincumbent
sandstone has suffered less decomposition than that adjoining to Con
stantia,
:
TABLE MOUNTAIN. QT
Granite Gide a considerable portion of the Lion’s Head.
It is composed of pale-red felspar, gray quartz, and brown-
ish-black mica. It is more frequently coarse granular than
fine granular, and is often porphyritic. It is occasionally
traversed by veins of quartz, or of felspar, or of granite.
In some parts the granite is traversed by veins of dolerite or
augite-greenstone, and one of these veins, as. described by
Dr. Abel, appears divided and shifted. This appearance is
represented i in No. 3 of Dr. Abel’s Geological Views at the
Cape of Good Hope. As we ascend the mountain, we find
the granite succeeded first by a reddish sandstone, and this,
in its turn, is covered by a brown sandstone that reaches to
the summit. These sandstones are principally composed
of granular concretions of quartz, with a few disseminated
grains of felspar and scales of mica. The sandstone is
distinctly stratified, and the strata dip at a small angle all
around the Lion’s Head and the north-west side of the
Table Mountain. On the opposite side of the latter, how-
ever, from the seabeach, we may see it, beyond the gorges,
making an angle with the horizon of not less than 45°.
Dr. Adams says, ‘ During a ride to Constantia one day, I
observed this high inclination more particularly on the rid ze
extending from the Devil’s Peak by Simon’s Bay; and,
having afterward visited the spot on purpose, found the
sandstone very much elevated in rts position above the common
level of the strata, and, at one place, nearly perpendicular to
the horizon, running from north-east to south-west.”
Table Mowntain.~~The next and highest mountain, the
Table Mountain, presents many interesting appearances.
The lowest part of the mountain, on one side, i is red sand-
stone; higher up, and apparently rising from under it, are
clay-slate, greywacke, and gneiss. These rocks are dis-
posed in strata, arranged nearly i in a vertical position, with
an east and west direction. They are intermingled with
granite, which is the next rock on the ascent of the moun-
tain. The granite, at its line of junction with the slate,
both gneiss and clay-slate, is often much intermixed with
them; and numerous veins of granite shoot f*om the mass
of the granite rock itself into the bounding strata. Ata
higher level than the granite, sandstone makes its appear-
ance, and continues upwards to the summit of the moun-
tain. The lowest of the summit sandstone is of a reddish
Aa
——_—
278 f DEVIL’S PEAK.
-
colour; the next above it is of a yellowish colour; and the
upper part, or that on the summit, is of a gray or beautifully
white colour, and sometimes so coarsely granular as to ap-
pear in the state of conglomerate. © In many places, the sand-
stone passes into quartz rock, and is very highly crystalline.
The sandstone is distinctly stratified, and nearly horizontal.
Devil’s Peak.—The most easterly mountain of the group
we are describing, named the Devil’s Peak, agrees with
Table Mountain in the nature and arrangement of the rocks
of which it is composed. The lower part of the mountain
exhibits strata of clay-slate; these, as we ascend, are suc-
ceeded by granite; and the upper parts and summit,are of
the usual varieties of sandstone.*
* The following particulars, in regard to the mountains near Cape
Town, were communicated to us by Captain Carmichael. The Table
Mountain and Lion’s Head rest upon a base of granite; Green Point,
Table Valley, and the Devil’s Peak, on a base of slate, of which the whole
of the Lion’s Back or Rump is composed. The granite extends up to the
rocky crown of the Lion’s Head,—an elevation of nearly 1500 feet; and
the declivity of the mountain is strewed with enormous masses of it.
On the side of the Table Mountain, the space on which the granite is
visible is contracted to about 500 feet, and occupies the centre of the decli
vity. At the spot called Sea Point, the granite and slate come in contact.
In the space of 200 yards along the shore, the reef is a mixture of these
two rocks, each predominating in the mass as you approach its respec-
tive side, where it is pure and unmixed. In some parts they form alter-
nating layers; in others, fragments of the slate, of all figures and sizes,
lie imbedded in the granite, which appears to have pervaded their mi-
nutest fissures. Between this mixed mass, however, and this pure s!ate,
there is interposed a rampart of granite, apparently different from the
common sort, which, for about 200 yards, is ‘unmixed; but, as it ap-
proaches the slate, becomes mingled with it in the same manner as the
granite. From this to Green Point, and extending through Robben
Island, a distance Of about twelve miles, the slate is pure, and disposed
in nearly vertical strata.
Close to the path which leads from Cape Town to the summit of the
Table Mountain, there runs astream, which, at the point where the gra-
nite and slate meet, has carried off the snperincumbent earth, and ex-
posed the surface of the rock from ten to twenty yards in diameter, and ~
about 200 yards in length, dipping at an angle of about 30°. Along the
whole of this space the slate is i: tersected by veins of granite, varying ~
from three feet in width to as many lines. The veins branch off in all”
directions, some straight, others twisted in the most fantastie convolu-
tions. In the face of the rampart which borders the channel on each
side, the veins are equally conspicuous. In walking along the shore,
from Campo Bay to Sea Point, we meet with numerous veins of augite- |
greenstone in the granite, varying in breadth from an inch to ten feet, i
and branching in as many directions as those of the granite with the
slate. Here also are to be seen numerous fragments of slate in the
granite.
/
>
a
UPRAISING OF THE PENINSULA. 279
To what Class of Rocks do those of the Cape Peninsula
belong ?—To what class or classes of formations of the geog-
nostical series are we to refer the rocks of the mountains
just described? From the clay-slate contaiming beds of
greywacke, we infer that the slate belongs to the transi-
tion class ;—from the granite being intermingled with the
slate, we consider it as probably belonging to the same
epoch. The sandstone is generally considered as belonging
to the secondary class,—an opinion, the accuracy of which
may be questioned ; because we find this rock in beds in the
slate, and also passing into and alternating with beds of a
transition rock, namely, quartz rock. This being the case,
we are disposed to refer it also to the transition class; and
the great mass of it to the newest or uppermost portion of
the series. :
At what Period did the Cape Rocks rise above the Level of
the Sea?—This question has been variously answered, ac-
cording to the geological creed of those who have considered
the subject. The Neptunians maintain, on plausible grounds,
that all these rocks are crystallizations and deposites from
the ancient waters of the globe, which have taken place in
succession,—the granite being the first formed, the slate
and greywacke the next, and last of all, the principal portion
of the sandstone; that, during the deposition of these
different rocks, the level of the ocean gradually sunk; and
that thus the mountains rose above its surface. The Plu-
tonians, or the supporters of the igneous origin of the gra-
nular crystallized rocks, view the formation in a different
manner. Some of the advocates of the igneous system
maintain, that the slate was first deposited in horizontal
strata, at the bottom of the sea,—that these strata were
afterward softened by heat, and raised from their original
horizontal to their present highly inclined position, by the
action of fluid granite rising from the interior of the earth ;
and that in this way the granite and slate mountains were
elevated above the sea: that the sea again invaded the land
and covered it to a great depth; and that from this ocean
was deposited the sandstone strata: that the sea again
—_—
‘The sandstone which forms the upper part of the Table Mountain,
Lion’s Head, and Devil’s Peak lies on horizontal strata, intersected by
ve-tical fissures. It is of a siliceous nature, and encloses rounded no-
duyles of quartz.
280 RECENT EMERGENCE OF LAND DISPROVED.
retired, and left exposed mountains, and chains of mountains
of sandstone. Other Plutonians are of opinion that the
slate, greywacke, and sandstone were deposited, in uninter-
rupted succession, at the bottom of the sea; and that the
whole mass of stratified matter was raised gradually or sud-
_denly above the level of the ocean, forming mountains, chains
of mountains, and table-lands, by that igneous agency which
sent up the granite, and probably also the augite-greenstone
rocks. This, of the two Plutonian views, is the most plausible,
and indeed is that explanation which may be viewed as most
in accordance with prevailing geological hypotheses. ~
Vegetables incrusted with Calcareous Sand confounded with
Coral, and adduced as a Proof of the very recent Emergence,
from ihe Ocean, of the Lands supporting them.—Somewhat
to the eastward of Simon’s Town is a large bank, one hun-
dred feet above the level of the sea, formed by an accumula-
tion of sand and shells, brought there by the action of the
wind. On this bank Abel observed a number of cylindrical
calcareous bodies scattered about, which at first appeared
like bleached bones. Ona closer examination many of them
are found to be branched, and others are discovered rising
through the soil, and ramifying from a stem beneath, thicker
than themselves. ‘They are incrustations of sand and cal-
careous matter on vegetables. Similar bodies have been
found by Vancouver, Flinders, and Perron, on the shores of
New-Holland, at considerable elevations. The first-men-
tioned traveller considered them all as coral, and as proofs
of the land having been lately withdrawn from the dominion
of the waters. ‘The last has described two kinds of sub-
stances; the one he considers as coral, the other as incrusta-
tions on vegetables. Captain Flinders, at page 48, vol. i.
of his Voyage Round the World, says,—“ The appearance
of this country along the coast resembles, in most respects, _
that of Africa about the Cape of Good Hope. The surface
seemed to be chiefly composed of sand, mixed with decayed
vegetables, varying exceedingly in point of richness, and,
although bearing a great similarity, yet indicating a soil su
perior in quality to that in the immediate neighbourhood ot
Cape Town. ‘The principal component part of this country
appeared to be coral; and it would seem that its elevation
above the ocean is of modern date, not only from the shores
and the bank which extends along the coast being, generally
RECENT EMERGENCE OF LAND DISPROVED. 281
speaking, composed of coral, as was evident by our lead
never descending to the bottom without bringing up coral on
its return, but by coral being found on the highest hills we
ascended, particularly on the summit of Bald Head, which
is sufficiently above the level of the sea to be seen 12 or 14
leagues distant. Here the coral was entirely in its original
state, particularly in one level spot, comprehending about
eight acres, which produced not the least herbage on the
white sand that occupied this space, through which the
branches of coral protruded, and were found standing exactly
like those seen in the beds of coral beneath the surface of
the sea, with ramifications of different sizes, some not half
an inch, others four or five inches in circumference. In
these fields of coral (if the term field be allowable), of which
there were several, seashells were in great abundance,—
some nearly in a perfect state, still adhering to the coral,
others in different stages of decay. The coral was friable
in various degrees ; the extremities of the branches, some
of which were nearly four feet above the sand, were easily
reduced to powder, while those close to or under the sur-
face, required some small force to break them from the rocky
foundation from whence they appeared to spring. I have
seen coral in many places at a considerable distance from
the sea; but in no other instance have I seen it so elevated
and in such a state of perfection.” Cuptain Flinders, at
page 63, vol. i. of his Voyage to Terra Australis, has the
following remarks on the same appearance :—“ Captain
Vancouver-mentions having found, upon the top of Bald
Head, branches of coral protruding through the sand, exactly
like those seen in the coral beds beneath the surface of the
sea,-—a circumstance which should seem to bespeak this
country to have emerged from the ocean at no very distant
period of time. This curious fact I was desirous to verify,
and his description was proved to be correct. I found also
two broken columns of stone, three or four feet high, formed
like stumps of trees, and of a thickness superior to the body
of aman; but whether they were of coral, or of wood now
petrified, or whether they might not have been calcareous
rocks, worn into that particular form by the weather, I can-
not determine. Their elevation above the present level of
he sea could not have been less than 400 feet.”
Perron says, “On breaking thé branches where the in-
Aa2
282 GEOLOGY OF THE TABLE-LAND.
crustation is recent, we observe the woody texture contained
in a solid case, and without any remarkable alteration ; but
in proportion as the calcareous envelope increases, the
wood becomes disorganized, and changes insensibly into a
dry and black powder.” From this state he supposes the
centre gradually to increase in solidity till the whole mass
becomes a mere sandstone, and nothing but an arborescent
form indicates the ancient state of vegetation.
The incrustations near Simon’s Town are of a similar na-
ture to those found in New-Holland, because, says Dr.
Abel, the descriptions of authors correspond with the ap- |
pearances I have witnessed, and because I have compared
a specimen brought from Bald Head in N ew-Holland, by Mr.
Brown, with those I obtained at the Cape, and can trace
no essential difference, either in the external characters or
chemical composition. It follows from this statement, that
Flinders and Vancouver have confounded vegetable in-
crustations with true corals ; and hence the reasoning on
their supposed submarine origin, and modern rising of the
Bald Head, &c. above the level of the ocean, is incorrect.
Geology of the North and South, and East and West
Ranges of Mountains.—The ranges of mountains which
run northward from the Cape Peninsula to Orange or Ga-
riep River, in the points where examined, exhibited granite
and slate, with vast deposites of sandstone or quartz rock
with numerous table-shaped summits,—thus showing a
similarity of composition in these mountains to those of the
Cape Peninsula.
The three great ranges of mountains that run from east
to west, according to the reports of travellers, are of the
same general nature, and eminently characterized by the
vast abundance of sandstone reposing in horizental strata
upon the granite and slate, forming the middle, and very
often the higher parts of the chains.
Geology of the Table-land.—From the third range on-
wards to lat. 30° S., the prevailing rock in the plains and
hills is sandstone. At Dwaal River, the frontier of the
colony, there are rocks of augite-greenstone and basalt,
probably in veins traversing the sandstone. Rocks of the
same description, disposed in beautiful globular concretions
(not boulders, as stated by Burchell), occur near to Kaabes
Kraal, 29° S. lat., probably in veins traversing the horizon- |
tal sandstone of that district. The Karreebergen, or Dry
THE SIBILO OF THE AFRICANS. 283
:
Mountains, beyond the limits of the colony, form a range
from five to ten miles broad, and range through the coun-
try to an unknown distance, from N.E. to S.W. These
mountains are principally composed of sandstone, in hori-
zontal strata, and every where exhibit beautiful table-
shaped summits. ere to Burchell, ** The sandstone
rock continues onward to lat. 30° S., to near Modde or
Mud Gap, where true quartz strata and vesicular trap-rocks
make their appearance. In lat. 29° 15’ 32’. S., mountains,
called the Asbestos Mountains, of clay-slate, disposed in
horizontal strata, occur; there. layers of asbestos occur in
the slate. This asbestos is blue and yellow, and the fibres
sometimes nearly three inches in length.” In the same
mountain, according to Burchell, green opal and pitchstone
also occur. A range of black craggy mountains extends
from the Kloof, in the Asbestos Mountains; the rocks are
very probably trap. Further to the north, at. Klaarwater,
are vast beds of horizontally stratified limestone, without -
organic remains. '
Account of the Sibiio of the Africans.—At Sensavan, or
Blenk-Klip, nearly in S. lat. 28°, there is aridge of quartz
rock impregnated with micaceous iron ore, which, in many
places, is collected into nests of considerable magnitude.
This ore gf iron is known throughout Southern Africa by
the name Szizlo. Hither all the surrounding nations re-
pair for a supply of that ornamental and, in their eyes,
valuable substance. It forms, in some degree, an article of
barter with more distant tribes, and even among them-
selves; so that the use of it extends over at least 5° of lati-
tude. It is of a reddish colour, soft and greasy to the feel,
—its particles adhering to the skin, and staining it of a
deep red colour. The skin, says Burchell, is not easily
freed from these glossy particles, even by repeated washing.
The mode of preparing and using it is, simply grinding it
with grease, and smearing it generally over the body, but
chiefly on the head; and the hair is often so much clotted
and loaded with an accumulation of it, that the clots look
like lumps of the ore.
From the north of Sensavan to Lattakoo, the rocks are
limestone without petrifactions, granite, and slate. In con-
clusion, it may be remarked, that as far as is known at pre-
sent, the whole of the table-land of Southern Africa, to the
284 ¢ | SOUTH AFRICAN LAKES. |
north of the Orange or Gariep River, is composed of hori-
zontal limestone without petrifactions, clay-slate, sandstone
ur quartz rock, granite, greenstone, serpentine, and pot-
stone. ‘The most remarkable geological feature of the
country is the horizontality of the strata,—thus intimating
their undisturbed state.
Geological Survey of the Karroo Ground recommended.—
To geological travellers we recommend a particular exa-
mination of the compact clay-ground called Karroo, which,
if a deposite from ancient lakes, may prove to be a tertiary
formation. ‘The surface only of the Karroo ground has
been described ; for, as far as our information goes, no ac-
counts have been published of its internal structure and
arrangement. It is by the study of the structure and
arrangement of its layers, and the careful examination of
the minerals, rocks, organic remains (if any) it contains,
and its chemical composition, that we can acquire a dis-
tinct conception of its true nature.
RIVERS.
The rivers of Africa, as far as connected with those re-
gions of this continent described in the present volume,
have been already particularly considered. As much, how--
ever, still remains to be known in regard to them, we may
add, that the attention of travellers, in investigating their
natural history, should, besides their geographical distri-
bution, be directed bnpniahe the various circumstances
connected with their fall, velocity, quantity of water they
contain, their eddies, Siesdonds and bore, if any such occur;
also, the nature of their beds, inundations, occultations,
temperature at the surface, or at different depths; their
cascades and rapids; their water, as to colour, trans-
parency, and chemical composition ; and they should not —
omit descriptions of the river scenery considered by itself,
and also in reference to the surrounding country ; and, lastly,
the climate, and effects of the climate, and of the scenery _
of the rivers, on man, ought also to form objects of inquiry.
SOUTH AFRICAN LAKES. sf
- In Southern Africa, lakes are but seldom met with, and
among these, some few are salt. The most considerable
salt lake hitherto met with by travellers, is that near to
SOUTH AFRICAN SPRINGS. 28d
Algoa Bay. It is resorted to by the inhabitants from very
distant parts of the colony, for the purpose of procuring salt
for their own consumption or for sale. It is Situated in
a plain considerably elevated above the level of the sea, is
of an oval form, and about three miles in circumference.
Tt is named Zoutpan or Saltpan, an appropriate name, as
the sun and wind do here what is effected in salt-works by
artificial heat. When Mr. Barrow examined it, the greatest
part of its bottom was covered with one continued body of
salt, like a sheet of ice, the crystals of which were so
united that they formed a solid mass as hard as rock. The
dry south-easterly winds of summer, agitating the water of
the lake, produce on the margin a fine, light. powdery salt,
like flakes of snow. This is equally beautiful as the re-
fined salt of England. Another salt lake, according to
Lichtenstein, occurs on the western coast of the colony near
to Elephant River, from which the inhabitants of the dis-
trict supply themselves with this necessary of life. A salt
lake of considerable extent is said to occur in about S. lat.
30°, in the upper part of the river-district of the Orange
River. The most northern, of which I have been able to
gain any intelligence, says Burchell, is one about the 27°
S. lat., eastward of Lattakoo. The Karroo clay, as already
mentioned, is probably a deposite from lake water, at atime
when the tracts where it occurs were covered with water.
Particulars to be attended to in investigating the Natural
Mistory of Lakes.—Travellers, in examining and describing
lakes, ought to ascertain their relations to rivers and springs,
their magnitude, depth, temperature at the surface and at
various depths, their colours, occultations, and agitations,
The water of the lake ought to be submitted to chemical
analysis, in order to ascertain whether it is fresh water,
salt water, alkaline water, calcareous water, &c. Their
mode of formation ought also to be considered, and the
peculiar characters of lake scenery and climate should be
attended to.
SOUTH AFRICAN SPRINGS,
_ The springs of Southern Africa may be divided into com-
mon, hot, and mineral. |
~ Common Springs.—Although much rain falls in the
Cape district, it affords but comparatively few springs.
Oe,
286 SOUTH AFRICAN SPRINGS.
This paucity of springs may be explained, as Mr. Barrow
remarks, by attending to the nature of the rocks, and their
mode of arrangement. Where two of the formations of —
the district occur together, as sandstone and granite for
example, and the sandstone lies upon the granite, whose
upper surface is above the level of the neighbouring coun-
try, springs will occur abundantly around the line of j junc-
tion of the two formations. In this case the water perco-
lates through the sandstone, which is a porous rock; but
its farther progress downwards is arrested by the granite,
which is a dense and compact rock, and therefore, when it
reaches the surface of the granite, it accumulates there, and
either remains stationary, or flows along its surface, until
it finds an opening at the surface, where it issues forth in
the form of springs. On the contrary, if the sandstone de-
posite rests upon granite, whose upper surface is below the
level of the surrounding country, the percolating water, on _
reaching the granite, will accumulate there, and flow off by
rents into the lower and distant parts of the country, but
few springs will be observed issuing from the sandstone.
Hot Springs.—The only hot springs particularly de-
scribed by travellers are those of Brand Valley and Zwarte-
berg.
_ Brand Valley.—The hot spring here is larger than that
at Zwarteberg. It forms a shallow pond of about fifty feet
across, of the most transparent water, in the middle of which
several strong springs bubble up through a bottom of loose
white sand, and afterward flowing in a very copious stream,
become a aialet. which, for at least a mile and a half, con-
tinues so hot, that its course along the valley may, at any
time of the day, but more particularly early in the-morning,
be traced by the steam which perpetually arises from it.
The pond is sheltered by a.small clump of white poplars,
which thrive perfectly well, although growing at the very ~
edge of the water, and bedewed with the hot steam, which
ascends to their highest branches. No plant, it seems, can
grow in the water itself; but the margins of the bank are:
thickly covered with sedge, particularly cyperus fascicularis.
Royena glabra, a species of rhus, and a variety of plants,
stand within the influence of its heat. The thermometer,
when plunged into the pond, rose only to 144° Fahrenheit,
but to the hand it felt nearly scalding hot; so that the
we
SOUTH AFRICAN SPRINGS. 237
immersion could scarcely be endured for a few seconds. The.
water is pure and tasteless, and is used for all domestic pur-
poses. Nothing resembling a deposition is any where ob-
servable ; nor are its banks or channel at all discoloured.
The hill, from the foot of which it issues, has no remark-
able appearance ; at least, there is none of that black pon-
derous iron ore, or earth, noticed at the Zwarteberg baths.
At the distance, of about 300 yards from the source, two
bath-houses have been built over the stream, the heat of
which, even here, is almost greater than can be borne by a
person not gradually inured to it. Between the spring and
the bath, where the stream has run a sufficient distance in
the open air to allow it time to become a few degrees cooler,
the bottom of the rivulet is covered with a beautiful sea-
green conferva, waving gracefully beneath the water, like
long tresses of hair. Specimens of rocks from this district,
sent me by Dr. Smith, show that the waters of this spring
issue from quartz rock, containing grains of white felspar
in the state of porcelain earth.
Warm Bath at Zwarteberg.—This is a short mountainous
ridge, running east and west, and of secondary height.
From the lower part of its southern front projects a small
flat hill, out of the upper part of which issue, in several
places, hot springs, the waters of which raise the thermo-
meter to 118° of Fahrenheit. The water deposites, in the
channels along which it runs, an orange-coloured ochre of |
iron ; but, after a course of 200 or 300 yards, ceases to dis-
colour the ground. It contains iron and sulphur, and
hence has a slightly chalybeate taste. Within three yards
of these hot springs there rises another, the water of which
is pure and tasteless, but is not warmer than that of the
common springs of the country. Probably the springs
here, as at Brand Valley, issue from quartz rock. In the
vicinity of the springs, as I observe by inspection of speci-
mens from Dr. Smith, bog-iron ore occurs.
Warm springs also occur in the valley of the Western
Elephant River; others near the Eastern Elephant River,
in Kamnasi Land; and a third behind Kokman’s (Kog-
man’s) Kloof; but all are of lower temperature than those
of the Zwarteberg and Brand Valley. There is also a
‘warm spring on the northern side of the Gariep, i in Great
Namagualand.
288 SOUTH AFRICAN SPRINGS.
_ Springs of mineral waters, of the common temperature,
have been noticed in various places; one near Graaf —
Reynet, and another not far from Uitenhage, and one alo
in the Tarka; but their chemical composition has not be
accurately ascertained.
_ Remarks on the Importance of a Knowledge of the Natural
History and Chemical Composition of Springs. —The springs —
of the African continent have hitherto been almost entirely
neglected by travellers and naturalists, either through in-
difference or ignorance. Now, however, that scientific men
have settled in different parts of that quarter of the globe,
particularly in Southern Africa, accurate details may be ex-
pected in regard to their various kinds, whether temporary,
perennial, intermittent, periodical, spouting, sublacustrine,
subfluvian, or submarine; their magnitude and colour; the
temperature of cominon springs, at different elevations
above the level of the sea, and during different seasons of
the year; and the range of temperature of warm and hot
springs. But in order to complete the history of the springs
of the country, we must, besides, describe not only the
rock or rocks from which they flow, but also ascertain the
various relations of these rocks to those of the neighbouring
mineral formations. Chemical investigations will afford
the necessary details as to the different mineral matters that
enter into their composition. The remarkable animal sub-
stance met with in some European springs, and probably
of more frequent occurrence than is believed, and which
may be derived from the strata containing animal fossil re-
mains, through which the spring waters percolate, ought
to be looked for, because its presence will afford to the
chemist an opportunity of examining a substance of a very
curious nature; to the geologist, data for interesting spe-
culation ; and to the physician, the means of judging of the
mode of action of those waters containing it, in scrofula -
and other diseases in which its use is said to be so bene-
ficial. It may happen here, as in other countries, that the
springs deposite around their sources, and at greater or
- Jess distances from them, much of the dissolved and sus-
pended foreign matter they contained, and thus give rise to
mineral formations, the external aspect and mode of ar-
rangement of which will illustrate geological phenomena
observed among the older rock-formations of which the crust
CONCLUSION. 289
of the earth is composed. Lastly, when it is known that
hot springs are intimately connected with subterraneay
igneous agency,—that power which formerly acted so ex-
tensively in forming and modifying the rocks of which the
crust of the earth is composed, and which even now con-
tinues, although on a less extensive scale, to occasion con-
siderable changes on the surface of the earth,—their natural
and chemical history becomes very interesting from the
light they shed over many important geological phenomena.
Geology of Caffraria, Natal, §c.—The geology of the
countries of Caffraria and Natal is entirely unknown. In
Sofala there are said to be mines of silver ; and gold is ccl-
lected from the sands and gravels of some districts. The
kingdom of Monomotapa, as it is called, at the distance
inland of about forty days’ journey from Sofala, affords gold,
topazes, and rubies. The geology of the country from De-
lagoa Bay, in lat. 26° S., to Cape Delgado, in lat. 10° S.,
is unknown; a small quantity of gold-dust is collected in
it. From Cape Delgado to the equator, the country which
is under the dominion of the imam of Mascat, is unknown
in a geological point of view. The country from the
equator to the Straits of Babelmandeb has never been
visited by any geolugist.
CONCLUSION.
From the preceding details it results, :
1. That of all the quarters of the globe, Africa has the
most truly tropical climate.
2. That notwithstanding its nearly insular form, its ex-
tent of coast is much less in proportion to its area than in
the other quarters of the globe.
3. That the peculiar condition of the human species, the
distribution and even the aspect of the lower animals and
plants, and many of the characters of the African climate,
are connected with its comparatively limited extent of sea-
coast, its extensive deserts, and arid soil.
4. That from the maritime situation of Sierra Leone and
its colonization by Britain, and the connexion of the southern
parts of the Great Table-land with the British settlements
on the southern coasts of Africa, we may conjecture that the
civilization of the negroes (if that interesting race ve not
destined to extirpation, as ."3 “aaa the fate of the abori-
990 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
gines of the New World,) will be effected from these two
quarters, through the energy, enterprise, and perseverance oft,
missionaries, well instructed in the various useful arts of life,
and in the simple and pure principles of Christianity.
- §, That its springs, lakes, rivers, bays, and arms of the
sea are fewer in number, and present more uniformity of
aspect than is generally the case in other parts of the
world. i
6. That it is eminently characterized by its vast central
and sandy deserts, its great southern table-land, and the
vast expanses of Karroo ground.
7. That of all the rock formations, those of limest »ne
and sandstone are the most frequent and most widely dis-
tributed: that natron, a rare deposite in other countries, is
comparatively abundant in Africa; thet salt is very widel
distributed, though in some districts it is wholly deficient ;
but coal is wanting. And the precious stones, so frequent
in other tropical regions, are here of rare occurrence.
8. That the metals, although met with in different quar-
ters, are nowhere abundant; and that, of all the.different
metals, gold is the most generally distributed.
9. That no active or extinct volcanoes have hitherto been
met with. | . .
10. Lastly, that Africa is less frequently agitated by
earthquakes than the other continents.
Lenn
CHAPTER XVIII.
Natural History of the Quadrupeds of Africa.*
A KNOWLEDGE Of the geographical distribution of animals,
and of the laws which regulate that distribution, has excited
a considerable degree of attention since the time of Buffon,
whose writings may fairly be regarded as the first to create
an interest in favour of this branch of natural history. ‘The
* I think it proper to apprize the reader that in the three following
chapters, devoted to the Zoology of Africa, several well-known and in-
teresting species, such asthe Egyptian Ichneumon, the Fennec of Bruce, —
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QUADRUPEDS. ‘ 291
slicht observance of the physical characters and other local
eculiarities of countries, which prevailed prior to that
Hn rendered the precise induction of general views a
matter of extreme difficulty ; and, as navigators and naval
adventurers of every class were indifferent to the accuracy of
science, and ignorant of the valuable results which might .
spring from a more correct record of the localities of species,
our knowledge of these localities did not increase in the same
proportion as the species themselves. Even at the present
day our collections are frequently rendered of little avail for
‘the purposes of zoological geography, by the products of one
country being intermingled with those of another: thus, the
splendidly-feathered tribes of Rio Janeiro are frequently
combined with the scarcely less brilliant birds of New-Hol-
Jand and Van Diemen’s Land; while the student of Indian
entomology labours under a similar chance of error, in find-
ing the Asiatic insects arranged by the merchant along with
an additional supply from the Cape of Good Hope. These
and other sources of confusion have long retarded our know-.
ledge of the geography of animals.
The habits and dispositions of animals result from their
structure, and that structure is invariably adapted to the
local circumstances under which they are naturally placed.
It must not, however, be supposed that the geographical
distribution of species can ever form a proper basis for their
zoological classification. Many natural families and genera
are so extensively distributed as to be almost equally cha-
racteristic of every quarter of the globe. The wolf and the
reindeer are common both to Europe and America; and the
lion occurs in the forests of Asia as well as among the A fri-
can deserts. These, however, are exceptions to the general
rule ; for it will be found, on examination, that every great
continent, or extensive tract of country, though possessed
of features which, to a certain degree, assimilate it to those
of other regions, is yet distinguished by many characters
entirely peculiar to itself, and which constitute its zoologi-
cal aspect. ‘Thus the kangaroo and the ornithorynchus are
characteristic of, ‘because peculiar to, New-Holland; the
lamas and vicunhas are only found in South America; the |
the Sacred Ibis, &c, are intentionally omitted, as being characteristic of
certain portions of the African continent, the general history of which
es not fall within the scope of the present volume.—-J. W.
292 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
ostrich and the camelopard are proper to Africa; the lemurs
to Madagascar; the pongo, or gigantic orang-outang, to»
the great Asiatic islands; and the common toad to the
western countries of Europe. So also, in the order of quad-
rumanous, or four-handed animals, such as apes and mon-
keys, the division called Platyrrhina, distinguished by the
breadth of the partition which separates the nostrils, occurs
only in South America; while another great division, named
Catarrhini, of which the nostrils are contiguous, is found
only in the Old World. A naturalist would therefore find
no difficulty in determining, merely from a glance at the
muzzle, whether a species of this order was native to the
ancient continent or the new.
Wherever the observant traveller turns his steps, he finds
in every country animals peculiar to itself; and many of
these, occipying the most remote and insulated spots, are
the most inadequately supplied with the means of locomo-
tion. ‘The mode of their original dispersion, whether from
a single position, or from multiplied centres of creation, has
therefore been a theme which has not unfrequently exercised
the ingenuity of naturalists. The subject, however, seems
to be one which scarcely falls within the scope of human
intelligence ; although a most ample source of interesting
and legitimate speculation may be made to flow from an ac-
curate and extended record of facts illustrative of their pre-
sent distribution, the amount of genera and species, the re-
lation which that amount bears to the animal productions of
other countries, and similar numerical details.
In the present chapter, we propose to exhibit a brief
sketch of the natural history of the greater portion of the
African continent ; and, although our limits will not permit.
us to draw an extended parallel between the zoology of that
country and the animal products of the other quarters of the _
globe, we shall yet have occasion, at an after-period of our
series, to survey the characteristic features of all the other
great divisions of the earth,—and, in so doing, may afford
the means of an accurate comparison between these and the
subjects of our present inquiry. In the mean time, however,
we shall not abstain from an occasional reference to the
analogous species of other countries, whenever we shall be
thereby enabled to throw any additional light upon the his”
tory of the African tribes. ¥"%
‘QUADRUPEDS. 293
Most nearly allied to the human race of all the species of
the brute creation, the black or African orang-outang (Simiu
troglodytes of Linneus) may be allowed to assume the fore-
most place in our enumeration. It is native to no other
country than Africa, although we are as yet unacquainted
with the extent of territory which it occupies in that conti-
nent. Angola, the banks of the river Congo, and all the
districts which border the Gulf of Guinea, are the localities
in which it has as yet most frequently occurred. Its history,
like that of its Asiatic congener, the red orang-outang (S7-
mia satyrus, Linn. )s is still volved in considezable obscu-
rity. Its habits, in the adult state, are extremely retired
and ‘wary; and the young alone have fallen into the hands
of Europeans in modern times. Great exaggeration pre-
vails in the narratives of all the earlier travellers regarding
the sagacity of this singular animal. Its external figure and
general conformation no doubt greatly resemble those of the
human race, and hence its actions have to us much of the
semblance of human wisdom. But a remarkable circum-
stance in the mental constitution of this tribe of animals dis-
proves their fancied alliance to mankind,—the young are
gentle, obedient, and extremely Dtae ad as they increase
m years their dispositions undergo a striking change, and
their truly brutal nature is evinced by an unusual degree of
untractable ferocity. In the wild state they are inferior both
to the dog and the elephant in sagacity, although their ana-
logous structure never fails to impress the beholder with a
belief that they resemble man in mental character as well as
in corporeal form. ‘Two species of African orang-outang
seem to have been described by the earlier writers. ‘These
were probably the young and old of the same species seen
apart at different times, for later researches do not lead to
the belief of there being more than one. ~
“The greatest of these two monsters,” says Battell, ‘is
called pongo in theit language ; and the less is called engeco.
This pongo is exactly proportioned like a man; but he is
more like a giant in stature; for he is very tall, "and hath a
man’s face, hollow-eyed, with long hair upon his brows.
His face and ears are without hair, and his hands also.
His body is full of hair, but. not very thick, and it is of a
dunnish colour. He differeth not fron a man but in his
legs, for they have no calf. ‘ a goeth always upon his legs,
2 '
294 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
and carrieth his hands clasped on the nape of his neck when
he goeth upon the ground. They sleep in the trees, and build
shelters from the rain. They feed upon fruit that they find
in the woods, and upon nuts; for they eat no kind of flesh.
They cannot speak, and appear to have no more understand-
ing than a beast.. The people of the country, when they
travel in the woods, make fires where they sleep in the
night ; and in the morning, when they are gone, the pongos
will come'and sit about the fire till it goeth out; for they
have no understanding to lay the wood together, or any
means to light it. They go many together, and often kill
the negroes that travel in the woods. Many times they fall
upon the elephants which come to feed where they be, and
so beat them with their clubbed fists, and with pieces of
wood, that they will run roaring away from them. Those
pongos are seldom or never taken alive, because they are so
strong that ten men cannot hold one of them; but yet they
take many of their young ones with poisoned arrows. The
young pongo hangeth on his mother’s belly, with his hands
fast clasped about her; so that, when the country people kill
any of the females, they take the one which hangeth fast
upon its mother, and, being thus domesticated and trained
up from their infant state, become extremely familiar and
tame, and are found useful in many employments about the
house.” |
Purchas informs us, on the authority of a personal con-
versation with Battell, that a pongo on one occasion carried
off a young negro, who lived for an entire season in the so-
ciety of these animals; that, on his return, the negro stated
they had never injured him, but, on the contrary, were
greatly delighted with his company; and that the females
especially showed a great predilection for him, and not only
brought him abundance of nuts and wild fruits, but carefully
and courageously defended him from the attacks of serpents”
and beasts of prey. TED |
With the exception of such information as has been
drawn from the observance of one or two young individuals
sent alive to Europe, our knowledge of this species has not
increased. We have become aware of the inaccuracy and
exaggeration of previous ‘statements, but have mot our-
selves succeeded in filling up the picture. It is indeed sin-
gular, that when the history of animals inhabiting New-
QUADRUPEDS, | 295
‘Holland, or the most distant islands of the Ind-an Ocean,
are annually receiving so much new and correct illustration,
the most remarkable species of the brute creation, inhabit-
ing a comparatively neighbouring country, should have
remained for about 2000 years under the shade of an almost
fabulous name, and that the “wild man of the woods”
should express all we yet really know of the African orang-
outang in the adult state.
Africa produces many other species of the monkey tribe.
The promontory most familiar to the Mediterranean voy-
ager, called Apes’ Mountain, not far from the opposing point
of-Gibraltar, is so called from the occurrence of these ani-
mals; and the rock of the last-named fortress is itself the
_ only strong-hold which they possess in Europe. They do
not, however, occur in desert countries, commonly so called ;
that is, the open sandy plains of Africa are altogether un-
fitted for the dwellings of these pigmy people. Apes of
all kinds are a sylvan race. Their structure being such as
to render them unfit for the exercise of rapid movements,
either on all-fours or in an upright position, the inclined and
densely intermingled branches of trees are their favourite
places of resort. Their feet in climbing being equally use-
ful with their hands, great additional power and activity are
thus derived. Among the shady and otherwise unpeopled
arbours which skirt the banks of the yet mysterious rivers ©
of Africa, they dwell in single pairs or in congregated
troops, according to the instincts of each particular kind ;
and seated on the tops of ancient trees, or swinging from
pendant boughs, they play their fantastic tricks, secure alike
- from the wily serpent during the day, and the panther
~
which prowls by night.
The pigmy of the ancients is a small Ethiopian species,
resembling the Barbary ape, but smaller in size, not much
exceeding the dimensions of a cat. Its tribes were for-
merly alleged at certain seasons to wage a bloody war with
cranes.
The callithrix, or green monkey (Simia Sabea), is not
unfrequently exhibited in menageries, where, however, its
beautiful colour usually fades into a dingy olive. It occurs
in various parts of Africa, both along the western and eastern
shores. The name of callithrix, which signifies beautifu!
hair, was employed by Homer to denote the more ornamental
296 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
colouring of the coat of various animals. It was applied
by Greek authors, some centuries posterior to the time of
Homer, to certain monkeys, and is now used specifically to
distinguish the species in question. M. Adanson informs
us that the woods of Podor, along the river Niger, are filled |
with green monkeys. He could discover them only by the
branches which they cast down from the tops of the trees ;
for they were otherwise so silent, as well as nimble, that he
could scarcely obtain a glimpse of them in their natural po-
sitions. After he had shot two or three, the rest became
alarmed, and endeavoured to shelter themselves behind the
trunks and larger branches. Some descended to the ground ;
but the greater number of those that remained unwounded,
sprung with great activity from the top of one tree to an-
other. ‘‘ During this operation,” says the traveller, “TI
continued to shoot, and in the space of twenty fathoms I
killed twenty-three in less than an hour, and not one of
them uttered the smallest cry, though they frequently as-
sembled in troops, grinded their teeth, and assumed a
threatening aspect, asif tliey meant to attack me.”
The white-nosed monkey (Cercopithecus petaurista of
Desmarets) inhabits the coast of Guinea. When taken
young it is easily tamed, and is then exceedingly lively and
diverting. The adult animals in the wild state are cunning
and fierce, and avoid the vicinity of mankind.
The amount of species in this order of animals is so
great, that, even confined as we are to those of a single
continent, a volume would scarcely suffice for the most su-
perficial sketch of their history, were we to include the
whole of the African species. We must therefore be very
brief in what remains to be told of one or two additional
kinds. Next to the magot or Barbary ape, one of the best
known in Europe is the mona or varied monkey. It is
native to the northern parts of Africa, and appears to have
been known to the Greeks under the name of kebos. This
species is of an affectionate nature in confinement, and is
more than usually susceptible of education. Some consider
him synonymous with the Abyssinian ape described
Ludolphe, which that author saw in great troops turning
‘over stones, with entomological zeal, in search of worms
‘and insects.
It was probably a species allied to that last mentioned in
QUADRUPEDS. _ 297
its habits, of which an amusing though tragical account ig
given by Le Vaillant. In one of his excursions he killed a
female monkey which carried a young one on her back.
The young one coutinued to cling to her dead parent till
they reached their evening quarters, and the assistance of
a negro was ever then required to disengage it. No sooner,
however, did it feel itself alone than it darted towards a
wooden block, on which hung the peruke of Le Vaillant’s
father. To this it clung most pertinaciously by its fore-
paws ; and such was the strength of this deceptive instinct,
that it remained in the same position for about three weeks,
all this time evidently mistaking the wig for its mother. It
was fed from time to time with goats’ milk, and at length
emancipated itself voluntarily, by quitting the fostering care
of the peruke. The confidence which it ere long assumed,
and the amusing familiarity of its manners, soon rendered
it the favourite of the family. The unsuspecting naturalist
had however introduced a wolf in sheep’s clothing into his
dwelling ; for one morning, on entering his chamber, the
- door of which he had imprudently left open, he beheld his
young favourite making a hearty breakfast on a very noble
collection of insects. In the first transports of his anger
he resolved to strangle the monkey in his arms; but his
rage immediately gave place to pity, when he perceived that
the crime of its voracity had carried the punishment along
_ with it. In eating the beetles, it had swallowed several of
the pins on which they were transfixed. Its agony conse
quently sbecame great, and all his efforts were unable to
preserve its life.
Baboons are fully more characteristic of Africa, as a
gener group, than any other of the quadrumanous order.
ith the exception of the dog-faced baboon (Cynocephalus
hamadryas), a native of the environs of Mocha, and other
eastern shores of the Red Sea, we are not acquainted with
any species of the genus which is not of African origin.
They are, without doubt, notwithstanding their approxima-
tion in some respects to the human form, the most disgust-
ing of the brute creation. Perhaps it is this very resem-
blance which excites our dislike. In spite of their occa-
sionally brilliant colouring, and the length and beauty of
their fur, there is an expression of moral deformity in their
aspect which is exceedingly revolting, and they seem pos
298 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
sessed of all the most odious and degrading propensities of
the most God-forsaken of the human race. No other spe-
cies exhibit so strong a concentration of the animal propen-
sities. They are the most sensual of the brute creation.
The strength of some baboons is enormous. By mus-
cular energy alone, and without the assistance of their
huge tusks, they will tear the strongest dog to pieces in a
few minutes. During one of Mr. Burchell’s hunting par-
ties, two of his dogs were seized by baboons (Cercopithecus
ursinus) ; one of them was killed on the spot by having his
jugular artery bit through, and the other was severely dis-
abled, and a part of his ribs laid bare. Fortunately, with
all their fierceness, their propensities are not carnivorous, —
otherwise the most dreaded of the feline race would prove
less formidable foes. In a state of nature they feed princi-
pally on roots and fruits, although the eggs and young of
birds probably alse form a part of their sustenance.
As in the present summary we are guided rather by zoo-
sogical than geographical principles, with a view chiefly to
avoid the repeated mention of the same animal, a necessity
from which we could scarcely escape were we to trace suc-
cessively the natural history of each African district, in-
stead of that of the species or genera themselves in system-
atic progression,—we shall proceed to the next group in
our scientific arrangements, that of the Lemurs.
This singular tribe of animals inhabits the great island
of Madagascar, and the not distant island of Anjouan, one
of the group of the Comora archipelago,—countries usually
regarded as belonging to the African division of our globe.
In common with apes and monkeys, they are quadrumanous
animals,—that is, possessed of the power of prehension
both with their fore and hind feet. ‘They differ, however, -
among other characters, in having a rather long and pointed
nail, instead of a flattened one, on the first finger’ of the
hind foot.
The ring-tailed lemur (ZL. catia, Linn.) is the most beau-
tiful of the genus. Its motions are characterized by a
great degree of elegant lightness: its manners are mild,
and its nature very harmless. Its size is equal to that ofa
large cat, and its wool is extremely soft and fine. — The tail
is about twice the length of the whole body, and is marked |
QUADRUPEDS., 299
by numerous rings of alternate white and black. In the
wild state it is gregarious, travelling in sma’l troops of
thirty or forty. When taken young, it is easily tamed. It.
delights in sunshine ; and in a state of domestication pre-
fers the fireside to most other places. Its general attitude
resembles that of a squirrel; and it feeds on fruits. In
captivity it becomes more omnivorous, and shows no distaste
to animal food. .The voice of the ruffed Jemur is remark-
able for its extraordinary strength, which strikes with fear
and astonishment those who hear it for the first time. It
may be likened to that of the Beelzebub or howling monkey,
which fills the woods of Guiana with its dreadful cries.
The power of voice in both cases no doubt proceeds from a
peculiar structure of the larynx.
Allied to the lemurs, and till lately generically classed
with these animals, is the indri, which, according to Son-
nerat, the natives of Madagascar domesticate and train up
as we do the dog to the sports of the field. It is a large
animal, measuring about three feet and a half in length;
its prevailing colour is blackish, with the visage and lower
part of the abdomen gray, and the rump white. It is dis-
tinguished by having no tail. Its voice resembles the cry-
ing of an infant, and its manners, like those of its conge-
ners, are mild and docile.
The last of the quadrumanous tribe peculiar to Africa,
which we shall take occasion to mention, are the galagos.
The Senegal galago is about the size of a common rat.
They dwell on trees like monkeys and squirrels, are mild
in their manners, and feed on insects, which they catch
in their fore paws, and devour with great avidity. The
great galago inhabits the eastern coast of Africa, and a spe-
cies occurs in the island of Madagascar. _
We now approach the more carnivorous tribes; and,
passing over the genus Galeopithecus, the distribution of
which is confined to Asia and its islands, we enter upon
the Vespertiliones, or great family of the bats, now divided
into many genera. Of these the greater proportion belong
to South America and the East Indies; so that our notice
of the African species may be short, without being really
much curtailed.’ Several species occur along the western
shores ; but the most remarkable is the great bat of Mada- —
gascar, described by Edwards, and regarded by some as
.
300 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
synonymous with the vampyre. A vampyre is in many
respects an imaginary monster, whose chief amusement
consists in sucking the blood of sleeping persons. The
name is connected with a superstition absurd in itself,
though sufficiently fearful to such as believed in it, which:
prevailed in Poland and Hungary about the year 1732.
According to this wild belief, certain individuals were sup-
posed to rise from the grave and suck their friends and re-
lations to death. Lord Byron has alluded to the fantasy
in the following well-known lines :— to!
“But first, on earth as vampyre sent,
Thy corse shall from its tomb be rent:
Then ghastly haunt thy native place,
And suck the blood of all thy race;
There from thy daughter, sister, wife,
At midnight drain the stream of life ;
Yet loathe the banquet which perforce
Must feed thy livid living corse :
Thy victims ere they yet expire
- Shall know the demon for their sire,
AS cursing thee, thou cursing them,
Thy flowers are withered on the stem.
But one that for thy crime must fall,
The youngest, most beloved of all,
Shall bless thee with a father’s name—
That word shall wrap thy heart in flame !~—
Yet must thou end thy task, and mark ' ;
Her cheek’s last tinge, her eye’s last spark, he
And the last glassy glance must view
Which freezes o’er its lifeless blue;
Then with unhallowed hand shalt tear
The tresses of her yellow hair,
Of which in life a lock when shorn,
Affection’s fondest pledge, was worn;
But now is borne away by ihee,
Memorial of thine agony ‘
Wet with thine own best blood shall drip
Thy gnashing tooth and haggard lip;
Then stalking to thy sullen grave,
Go—and with Gouls and Afrits rave;
Till these in horror shrink away
From spectre more accursed than they ”
Some vague allegations of a somewhat similar nature
(excepting the resurrectionary faculty) having been a¢
duced against certain of the bat tribe, Linneus named one
of them Vespertilio vampyrus. ‘The general colour of the
body is deep reddish brown, brighter on the neck and
shoulders. The teeth are large and sharp; the wings
’
QUADRUPEDS.. : 30}
black, and measuring several feet in extent, and the tail is
wanting. This apparently formidable animal was supposed
to perform its deadly operations by inserting its sharp-
pointed tongue into the vein of a sleeping person, and in so
delicate and peculiar a manner as to occasion no pain.
The sleep of the victim was not even disturbed, and the bat,
by the fanning motion of its wings, produced a delicious
coolness around, which rendered repose the deeper, till the
sufferer awoke in eternity. |
Whatever may be the case as regards the propensities
of some of the South American species, of whose blood-
sucking disposition Humboldt does not seem to doubt, it
appears to be the opinion of naturalists that the vampyre-
bat of Linnzus is a frugivorous animal, of perfectly inno-
cuous habits. According to Edwards, it is a native of
Madagascar.
Among the smaller insectivorous quadrupeds, several
kinds of shrew mice (Sorex) inhabit different quarters of
Africa. The Cape shrew (S. Capensis) dwells in caverns,
and occurs at the Cape of Good Hope. |
The chrysoclore, or Cape mole, is remarkable for the
brilliant metallic colours which adorn its fur. Its size is
rather less than that of the common mole of Europe, and
there is a resemblance to that species in its general form.
The fore feet have only three claws, of which the exterior
is the largest: the hind feet are furnished with five weaker
claws. Its true country is the Cape of Good Hope, though
naturalists have been led into error regarding its locality by
a false indication in the Thesaurus of Seba, by whom Siberia
is assigned as its native region.
The tenrec (Setiger of Cuvier), an animal formerly
classed with the hedgehogs, inhabits the island of Mada-
gascar, and may be mentioned as the only known instance
of a hibernating species indigenous to a warm climate. It
burrows in the ground, and remains torpid for about three
months in the year. It usually lies concealed during the
day, and ventures abroad after sunset in search of fruits
and herbs. Its body is generally very fat, and is eaten by
the natives of Madagascar. There are several species of
‘the genus, all confined to that island, where, from their
grunting voices, they are —_ ground-hogs. One of these
6
302 - NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
S. ecaudatus) 1s defended by spinous projections, and is
snown to Europeans under the name of the pig-porcupine.
The ratel, or honey-eater (Mellivora Capensis), is pecu-
liar to the southern extremity of this continent. The ge-
neral colour of the upper surface of the Wody is gray—of the
under, black,—an unusual contrast, as the inferior parts of
the fur of most animals are paler than those of the dorsal
region. Its fore claws are very long. It lives on honey,
and digs up the nests of wild bees from the deserted bur-
rows of different animals. It is said to watch the flight and
motions of a species of cuckoo (the Cuculus indicator) which
preys on bees. The Hottentots indeed follow the same
guide, and are also alleged to discover wild honey lodged
in trees, by observing the bark gnawed around the base by
the spiteful ratel, which cannot climb. ‘
We are not acquainted with any animal of the otter kind,
strictly so called, inhabiting Africa; although Europe, ©
Asia, and America are well supplied with several sorts.
The nearest approach, among the African forms of animal
life, is presented by the Aonyzx Delalandi, remarkable for its
feet being either without nails, or for the existence of these
appendages in a merely rudimentary state on one or two
toes of the hind feet. Itis named Lutra inunguis by some
naturalists, on account of that peculiarity. This animal
measures about three feet in length, exclusive of the tail,
which extends about ten inches; the fur is soft and thick,
of a chestnut-brown colour, paler on the flanks, with a mix
ture of gray about the head. It preys on fish and crustacea,
and inhabits the salt pools along the borders of the sea in
the vicinity of the Cape..
Canine animals are very generally distributed over the
surface of our globe. Under that appellation naturalists
include not only domestic dogs, and all their interminable -
varieties, but wolves, foxes, and jackals. Wolves are cha-
racteristic of the temperate and northern parts of Europe
and America. Foxes have a somewhat similar distribution,
but are more extended in a southern direction; while
ar} abound in most of the warmer regions of the |
orld, but, unlike the other two, are unknown in £ mM,
There are three species of jackall. The Asiatic specie
(Canis aureus) characteristic of, but not peculiar to the
continent of Asia, is the most widely spread. It occurs ”
. 7
. ° Fe sos
QUADRUPEDS.
over a great extent of country from India to Palestine, and
from Figypt and Barbary along the shores and through the
central deserts of Africa to the Cape of Good Hope. This
is the species commonly called the lion’s provider. It
hunts in packs; and the king of beasts, when roused from
his slumbers by the yells of these creatures in pursuit of
prey, probably follows the hue and cry, and ere long comes
in for his share of slaughtered deer or antelope. ‘The
Cape jackall, commonly so called (Canis mesomelanus), re-
sembles a fox, and is characterized by a triangular mark of
blackish gray upon the back, broader at the shoulders, and
finishing in a point at the origin of thetail. It inhabits the.
Cape of Good Hope. Another species (C. anthus) is found
in Senegal.
Intermediate between the dogs and hyenas may be placed
a curious African animal, long known to the Cape colonists
by the name of wild dog. ‘In the morning,” says Mr.
Burchell, “‘ Philip returned with the oxen; but reported that,
in consequence of Abram Abram’s neglecting on the night
Defore to secure them as usual in the cattle-pound, the wilde
honden (wild dogs) had bitten off the tails of three. One
had only lost the brush, but the others were deprived of the
whole.” This species hunts in regular packs, both during
the night and day ; and itis so rapid in its movements that
none but the fleetest animals can ensure their safety.
Sheep fall an easy sacrifice, though the larger cattle are sel-
dom attacked, except stealthily from behind for the sake of
snapping off their tails. The want of a tail, in a warm
country swarming with flies, is a source of the most serious
annoyance to any quadruped ; and the visits of this hyena-
dog are therefore much dreaded and suitably guarded
against. ‘The animal in question is of a more slender form
than either the striped or the spotted hyena. Its general
colour is a sandy bay or ochrey yellow, shaded with darker
hairs; and the whole body is blotched and brindled with
black, with here and there a spot of white. Mr. Burchell’s
specimen, which he kept for thirteen months chained up in
a stable-yard, was extremely ferocious in its nature. It
became at length in some degree attached to a common dog,
with which it used to gambol; but even the keeper by
whom it was fed never ventured to touch it with his hand.
Africa is the country of hyenas. The spotted specier
304 Mc vass HISTORY OF AFRICA.
(H. Capensis, Desm., Canis crocuta, Linn.) is peculiar to that
continent, and abounds in its southern extremity. The
striped species (H. vulgaris, Desm., C. hyena, Linn.) is
more characteristic of the northern districts. Itis frequent
in Egypt, Abyssinia, and Nubia, and extends into Syria
and Persia. It is a ‘lisgusting and troublesome animal
wherever it occurs. It raunts the suburbs, and even pene-
trates into the streets of some eastern cities after sunset,
preying on offal and stealing the remains of dead carcasses,
which it prefers to living prey. One of them robbed Bruce
the traveller of some pounds of tallow ca by entering
his tent under cloud of night.
The animals called civets are found both in Asia and
Africa.
%
We now enter upon the consideration of the feline tribes,
the most ferocious and bloodthirsty of the brute creation.
Though the tiger is unknown to Africa, the lion, the king
of beasts, here reigns with undisputed sway, and is not only
more numerous, but also more magnificent in his propor-
tions, than in any other country. Celebrated from the most
remote antiquity for his courage and magnanimity, this
truly majestic creature has long been held as symbolical of
boldness ; and his countenance and general bearing cer-
tainly imbody our liveliest conceptions of warlike grandeur,
combined with a certain dignity of aspect not unbefitting
his assumption of regal sway. ‘The painter, the poet, the
sculptor, and the rhetorician have alike tried in vain to
depict the terrors of this grisly king. |
The southern parts of Africa present a variety of the
lion, of which the mane is nearly black. The Barbary lions
are brown, with a very thick mane covering the neck and
shoulders of the male. Those of Senegal are of a more -
yellow hue, with thinner manes. _It'is unnecessary to enter
into any minute descriptive details of this familiarly-known
animal.
The ancients sculptured a lion without a mane, which
some modern writers regard as an extinct, others as a ficti-
tious species. It occurs on the hieroglyphical monuments
of Upper Egypt; and a curious confirmation of its e
ence has been tice sed from Nubia, where, it is alleged, a
very large and maneless lion has been recently discovered.
‘ie 7 QUADRUPEDS. 4 é. 305
Although the life of the lion is limited by Buffon to about
twenty years, there is no doubt that it usually attains to a
much greater age. Pompey, who died in the year 1760,
had been confined in the Tower above seventy years, and
another was known to have died there at the age of sixty-
three. Sparrman and others have impugned the character
of this noble animal, and alleged that a greater degree of
timidity exists in his constitution than is compatible with
courage. It may, however, be given as a piece of safe
advice to the inexperienced emigrant, not to place too much
confidence in the cowardice of lions.
The geographical boundaries of the lion appear to have
been greatly circumscribed within these last two thousand
years. Even where it still exists in comparative abundance,
it is an animal of rare occurrence ; and, from many districts
where it once abounded, it has now entirely disappeared.
‘According to Herodotus, they were once sufficiently common
both in Thrace and Macedonia; and they are known to
have formerly abounded in Asia, from the shores of Syria .
to the banks of the Ganges and the Oxus. By what means
the Romans contrived to assemble those vast troops which
they sometimes exhibited at,their games, it would now be
difficult to determine; but we know that Sylla fought to-
gether one hundred males, and Pompey three hundred and
fifteen. ‘Those of Sylla were sent by Bocchus, king of
Mauritania; but at present a brace of lions would be
thoug:it a very princely gift from any of the Moorish king-
doms. Even in the time of Probus, about the middle of
the third century, one hundred male lions, and the like
number of females, were exhibited. We may however
presume that even prior to this period they were considered
as rather scarce, as the hunting of the lion was forbidden
to the vulgar, lest the supply required for the circus should
be diminished. This law was abrogated in the time of Ho-
norius ; though their entire destruction in so many districts
was probably not achieved till after the introduction and
general use of firearms.
As the northern parts of Africa are known to have been
thickly peopled during the time in which lions so greatly
abounded there, we may hence infer that the co-existence
of the larger carnivorous animals along with the human
race, is not, as many ane ees have imagined, altogether
c2
/
* ‘
306 - NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
7
incompatible. ‘They imagine themselves to have seen, In
the limited actual number of lions and tigers, a guarantee
of nature, as it has been called, for our preservation, and
that of animal life, throughout the world. But'the truth
is, as Azara and others have remarked, that these tremen-
dous creatures rarely attack the human race, except in cases
of great necessity, or in self-defence.
. Africa produces two other fine feline animals, the panther
and the leopard, on the history of which we shall not at
present enter. Although they are both well known, and
frequently exhibited in our menageries, considerable con-
fusion still exists regarding their natural history and loca-
lities in the works of zoological writers. Lynxes also occur
in Africa.
Passing over the seals and other amphibious quadrupeds,
of which we know of none characteristic of this continent,
we come to the order called Glires by naturalists, more fa-
miliarly named gnawers. Of these the first and most
beautiful tribe which presents itself is that of the squirrels.
Few of these inhabit the country now under discussion.
The forests of America are their familiar homes, and many
species also occur in India and the Asiatic islands. But
the African woods are likewise, though to a more limited
extent, enlivened by the gambols of these graceful creatures.
The palm-squirrel is somewhat larger than our British
species. It inhabits the warmer regions of Asia and Africa,
and dwells on palm-trees. The Madagascar squirrel is
found in the island of that name ; and the Gingi squirrel,
so called from its Indian locality, is also alleged to occur at
the Cape of Good Hope.
.
Of the marmot tribe, numerous in the north of Asia and -
America, and represented in Europe by the Alpine species,
so famous for its long-continued winter sleep, Africa pro-
duces very few examples. The only one indeed with which
we are acquainted is the marmot gundi (Arctomys gundi of
Gmelin), a species resembling the European kind in its
form, but characterized by having only four toes to each
foot. The size is that of a rabbit ; its colour reddish ; its
eats very short, but broad in their openings ; and its locality
Mount Atlas. ore eee
;
..
a> ,
QUADRUPEDS. ~* 807
+
We may here notice the genus Bathyergus, peculiar to
the south of Africa. The sand mole (B. maritimus), as the
larger species is usually called, occurs in abundance along
the sandy shores of the Cape of Good Hope, where it fre-
quently renders the ground hollow by its excavations, and
consequently inconvenient, if not dangerous, to horsemen.
It feeds principally on bulbous roots, such as those of ixie
and antholyze. This animal is of the size of a rabbit.
It runs awkwardly on the surface, but burrows and makes
its way under ground with great facility. The other spe-
cies is known by the name of Cape rat (B. Capensis). Its
habits are similar to those of the species just mentioned,
but it is considerably smaller. It is destructive to gardens
and ornamented pleasure grounds, by throwing up the
earth, like our European mole, in the course of its subter-
ranean excavations. A third species has been lately
described under the name of Bathyergus Hottentotus, by
MM. Lesson and Garnot.
Another genus found in Africa, though not peculiar to
that continent, is the Dizpus or gerboa. The Egyptian
gerboa inhabits the environs of Memphis and the Pyramids.
This species appears to have been known to the ancients
under the name of two-footed mouse. It is a beautiful
little animal, remarkable for its extended tail and the great
length of its hind legs. It is hunted with greyhounds by
the Arabs of the kingdom of Tripoli. The Price of Tunis
presented Bruce with a trained greyhound, which afforded
him excellent sport in that way.
The Cape gerboa (D. Cafer), now referred by naturalists
to the genus Helamys, is the largest of the tribe. It mea-
sures one foot two inches from nose to tail, and the tail is
fifteen inches long. This species is remarkable for its
great strength and activity. It will spring from twenty to
thirty feet at a single bound, and inhabits the mountainous
countries to the north of the Cape of Good Hope. It is
called the springen haas, or jumping hare, by the Dutch
colonists.
Rats and mice, like many other domestic nuisances, are
now very generally distributed over the globe. Wherever
European nations have colonized, these small but adven-
turous creatures have accompanied the merchant or the
308 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
mariner; and from the forlorn settlements of the fur traders
of North America to the populous cities of the south of)
Asia, their furtive habits of destruction are the source of
equal annoyance. The common brown rat (Mus decuma-
nus) is a native of India, and only made its appearance
among the western nations of Europe from the beginning
to the middle of last century. The original country of its
predecessor, the black rat (M. rattus), if not unknown, is at
least doubtful. It is not mentioned by any ancient writer,
and appears to have been introduced into Europe during the ~
middle ages. Within the last half century it has been
nearly extirpated from most of the great European cities
by its larger and more powerful rival.
Africa produces several species of murine animals, not
hitherto recognised in any other region of the earth. A
beautiful small species, discovered and described by Sparr-
man, is native to the forest countries of the Slangen River,
eastward from the Cape of Good Hope. It appears, how-
ever, to be nearly allied to the genus arvicola, which includes
the water-rats. . | ¥
The dormice (genus Myorus) are also represented in
Africa by a species communicated by Pennant to Sir Joseph
Banks, and said to have been discovered among the moun
tains of Sneuwberg, above 800 miles beyond the Cape. Its
- size is that of a squirrel; but its shape is broader and more
flattened. Nothing is known of its habits or history, or
whether, as Martial supposed of another species of dor-
mouse, it not only hibernates but is fattened by repose,—
Tota mihi dormitur hiems ; et pinguior illo
Tempore sum quo me nu nisi somnus alit,
We have seen, even in the course of the slight view
which we have hitherto taken of the quadrupeds of Africa,
that some genera are entireiy restricted to that continent, |
while others are distributed likewise over Europe and Asia. ~
The genus Hystriz, which contains the porcupines, as for-
merly constituted was remarkable for its dispersion over all
the four quarters of the globe ; but, as the American spe-
cies are classed by recent systematists in a separate genus,
= om porcupines may be said to be confined to the Old
orld. we.
The common porcupine (Hystriz dorsata) inhabits ive
: | QUADRUPEDS. F 309 .
very distant points of Africa, Barbary and the Cape of
Good Hope. It is also found in India, Persia, Greece, Italy,
and Sicily. Mr. Brydone informs us, in his Tour, that it
is frequent in that island in the district of Baiae, and that
he killed several during a shooting party on the Monte Bar-
baro. He dined upon his game, but found it luscious and
‘ soon palling upon the appetite. The singular aspect of
this animal seems to have attracted the attention of the
lovers of nature at a very early period, and many fabulous
properties were added to the true character of a creature in
itself sufficiently curious. It was said to possess the power
of darting its quills at pleasure with great force, and toa
considerable distance, against its enemies. There is no
doubt, that when agitated either by fear or anger, it bristles
up its quills, rattles them against each other as an Indian
warrior might his quiver full of arrows, and that in this
temporary agitation a quill may be occasionally thrown out,
and might even settle itself in the body of an adversary ;
but they are essentially fixed, though not immoveable organs,
and can no more be parted with in self-defence than the
spines of the hedgehog. Claudian, however, observes, that
the porcupine is himself at once the bow, the quiver, and
the arrow, which he employs against the hunters,—
Ecce, brevis propriis munitur bestia telis,
Externam nec querit opem, fert omnia secum,
Se pharetra, sese jaculo, sese utitur arcu!
The porcupine feeds chiefly on roots, fruits, and other
vegetable produce. It dwells in subterranean retreats, and
comes abroad more frequently during the night than the day.
We come now to the hares and rabbits, a genus widely
distributed from the shores of Hudson’s Bay to the Straits
of Magellan, and from Siberia to Bengal. The common
rabbit (Lepus cuniculus) is supposed to have been originally
introduced from Africa into Spain, and to have been ex-
tended from the latter country over the rest of Europe.
The Egyptian hare (Lepus Eyyptius) occurs also at the
Cape of Good Hope. The ears and hind legs are propor-
tionally longer than those of the European species. The
anterior legs appear to have only four toes, owing to the
taumb or inner toe being very small. Its fur, though not
310 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRKivA.
entirely similar, does not greatly differ from that of our
own species. Those from South Africa are of large size.
A small species (L. arenarius) about one-fourth less than
a rabbit, was lately discovered by M. Delalande, inhabiting
sandy districts i in the country of the Hottentots.
The singular family of the armadilloes would require no
meuition in our present sketch, were it not that the laborious
though inaccurate Seba has represented one of them under
the name of the African armadillo. Suffice it to say, that
no species of the genus is found elsewhere than i in America.
An animal peculiar to Africa is the Cape ant-eater( Orycte-
ropusCapensis). 'The ant-eaters, properly so called (genus
Myrmecophaga), are peculiar to America; so that the spe-
cies now under consideration may be regarded merely as
their African representative. It is an animalof large dimen-
sions, measuring between three and four feet in length, ex-
clusive of the tail, which is nearly two feet long. Its habits
are nocturnal ain subterraneous, and its food consists of
ants and termites, which it seizes with its long and gluti-
nous tongue, after having disarranged their dwellings with
its paws. It occurs in the neighbourhood of the Cape of
Good’ Hope.
The animal kingdom scarcely presents us with quadru-
peds of a more marked and peculiar aspect than the pan
golins or manis tribe. Instead of hair, they are covered
with a scaly armour, consisting of numerous leaf-like plates,
lying over each other after the manner of tiles; and their -
slender cylindrical bodies and lengthened tails give them
so much the aspect of reptiles, that they are very generally
known under the name of scaly lizards. ‘They are harm-
less animals, feeding like the ant-eaters on insects, particu-
larly ants, which they collect by thrusting their long tongues
into the dwellings of these industrious creatures. They
inhabit both India and Africa. The species called, par ez-
cellence, the long-tailed (Manis tetradactyla, Linn. ) inhabits
Benegal: and the coast of Guinea.
ret
We now arrive at the Psi iene or thick-skinned
animals, corresponding to the order Betiuz of Linneus.
:
QUADRUPEDS. Bil
In this division are included the elephant, the tapir, the
rhinoceros, the hyrax, or Cape marmot, the pecaris, the
babyroussa, the wild boar, the African boar, ‘the hippopota.
mus, and the horse.
The most gigantic of all living terrestrial animals, the
elephant, combines superhuman strength with almost human
wisdom, in a manner otherwise unequalled among the brute
creation. Many instances are on record of its retentive
memory, its grateful and affectionate disposition, and its
general intelligence as a discriminating, if not reflecting
creature. From the earliest ages its stupendous size and
unexampled sagacity have formed a theme of wonder and
admiration to mankind. Elephants in the wild state are
gregarious and herbivorous. ‘They are naturally averse to
the extremes of heat and cold; and, although inhabitants
of some of the most sultry regions of the earth, they shelter
themselves from the overpowering heat of the midday sun
in the comparative coolness of those umbrageous , forests
which, both in Africa and Asia, are their chosen places of
abode.
Of the Asiatic elephants, the Ceyloneas are the most
celebrated. Indeed, the torrid zone seems the most favouwr-
able for the production of the largest races. Along the
coast of Malabar, elephants occur as far north as the terri-
tories of Coorgah Rajah ; but these, according to Mr..Corse
(Scott), are inferior to the breed from Ceylon.
The African elephant is easily distinguished from the
Asiatic, by his rounder head, his convex forehead, his enor-
mous ears, and the lozenge-marked surface of his grinders.
His tusks are also longer, and those of his female are
equally great ; whereas the female of the Asiatic elephant
has very small tusks. He inhabits a wide extent of Africa,
from Senegal to the Cape, and abounds in the forests of thse
interior. ‘The African elephant has not been rendered ser-
viceable to man, like that of Asia. This, however, arises
from no defect in the docility of the animal, but rather from
a difference in the social and political conditions of the hu-
man tribes of Africa, and their inferior civilization. The
ancient Carthaginians made use of elephants, which there
is no reason to suppose were otherwise than of African
origin, in like manner as the Asiatic variety was used by
Porus and the Indian kings. In modern times, the inven:
\
812 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
tion and extended use of firearms have rendered the war-
like services of these huge creatures of comparatively little
avail; but their great strength and sobriety of conduct ren-
der them highly efficient, indeed indispensable, in eastern
countries as beasts of buvden, and as accessaries in the
sports of the field.
It is not yet clearly ascertained whether the elephants of
the eastern shores of Africa are the same as those of the
interior and western districts, or whether they do not exhibit
a closer approximation to the Asiatic species. We shall
conclude by observing that the size of the elephant has been
much exaggerated. Dr. Hill, for example, asserts, that,
when full grown, it is from seventeen to twenty feet high.
One-half of the latter height is probably nearer the truth;
even for an individual of more than ysual size, and twelws
feet may be stated as the extreme dimensions.
Second in size, though widely distant in sense, is the
rhinoceros, an animal of a sour and stubborn disposition,
and in every way less trustworthy than the elephant. Of
this genus there are several species, two of which (if R.
Burchellii is entitled to specific distinction) inhabit Africa.
The others are native to India, and the great islands of Java
and Sumatra. The African species (R. Africanus) is armed
with a couple of horns; its coat is not distinguished by vo-
luminous folds, and it wants the incisive teeth. The sense
of sight is said to be rather defective in the rhinoceros:
those of smell «nd hearing are acute.
Another animal, characteristic of, though not entirely
peculiar to Africa, is the hyrax or Cape marmot. This ape,
cies is supposed by some biblical annotators to be the c
of the Scriptures. It inhabits the rocky territories of
many parts of Africa, and occurs, with little variation in
its external aspect, in Syria. With the exception of the
horns, it bears a strong resemblance to a rhinoceros in
miniature.
The Ethiopian hog (Phascocherus Africanus) is a oe
and savage animal, allied to the wild boar in its habits
distinguished by a pair of large lobes or wattles pla
neath the eyes. The tusks of the upper jaw bend upwarc
in a semicircular manner towards the forehead. W fen
attacked, it is apt to become furious, and, rushing on its
QUADRUPEDS. 313
adversary with great force and swiftness, inflicts the most
desperate, and sometimes fatal wounds. It inhabits a wide
extent of country along the western side of Africa, from
Senegal to the Cape ; and it also occurs specifically the same
in Ethiopia. A new species of this genus has been re-
cently discovered in the north of Africa by M. Ruppell. It
-is named Phascocherus barbatus. The ascertainment of
the latter animal is a proof, among many others which
might be adduced, of the impropriety of denominating a
species from the continent which it inhabits. Few species
are so isolated in the animal kingdom as to exist alone over
a great tract of country, without claiming kindred with any
other ; and we may fairly infer, @ priori, that when one of
a genus is discovered, a second or a third will ere long
make its appearance. When this happens, such specific
names as Africanus, Americanus, &c. cease to be of adis-
a
criminating or exclusive nature, and consequently lose their
value. ;
Next to the elephant and rhinoceros, perhaps the most
bulky land animal with which naturalists are acquainted,
is the hippopotamus or river-horse. It is peculiar to Africa,
and inhabits the fresh waters of that continent. It formerly
existed in Lower Egypt, but has long since disappeared
from that district. Mr. Bruce makes mention of hippopo-
tami as existing in the Lake Tzana, exceeding twenty feet
in length. It would be hard to limit the growth of this na-
turally gigantic species ; but the largest ever killed by Co-
lonel Gordon, an experienced hippopotamist, did not exceed
eleven feet eight inches. M. Desmoulins regards the spe-
cies of Senegalas differing from those of the more south-
ern parts of Africa. ‘These animals are chiefly valuable on
account of their ivory tusks, which, being harder than those
of elephants, and not so subject to turn yellow, are much
esteemed by dentists. Their hides are formed into buck-
lers by several of the African tribes.
We now arrive atthe genus Equus, or horse tribe, which
consists of six species, three\of which are peculiar to Africa,
viz. the mountain-zebra (E. zebra, Linn., E. montanus, —
Burchell), the zebra of the plains (EZ. zebra, Burchell),
and the quagga, (E.quagga, Linn.) Neither the ass nor the
common horse are aboriginal inhabitants of this continent.
314 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
The aspect of the zebra is too familiarly known, to re-
quire description. It isone of the most fancifully adorned
of all known quadrupeds ; but the beauty of its external ap-
pearance is its chief merit, as its disposition is wayward
and capricious in the extreme. With the exception of one
or two instances, in which persevering individuals have suc-
ceeded in subduing the stubbornness of its nature, it has
not been rendered subservient to the purposes of the hu-
man race. It isa mountain-animal, called daww by the '
Hottentots, and is scarcely ever seen on the plains.
The zebra of the plains, although only recently charac-
terized as a distinct kind, is in fact a better known and more
abundant species than theother. It is chiefly distinguished by
the want of rings upon the legs. ‘I stopped,” says Mr. Bur-
chell, “‘ to examine these zebras with my pocket telescope:
they were the most beautifully marked animals I had ever
seen; their clean sleek limbs glittered in the sun, and the
brightness and regularity of their striped coat presented a
picture of extraordinary beauty, in which probably they are
not surpassed by any quadruped with which we are at pre-
sent acquainted. It is indeed equalled in this particular
by the dauw, whose stripes are more defined and regular,
but which do not offer to the eye so lively a colouring.”
The quagga is more nearly allied to the zebra of the
plains than to that of the mountains. It lives in troops in
the neighbourhood of the Cape, and, im common with the
zebra, is frequently found in company with ostriches. The
wary disposition of these birds, and their great quickness
ef sight, are supposed to be serviceable to the congre-—
gated group in warning them of the approach of their ene-
mies.
The next great tribe of animals which falls under our
consideration, is that of the ruminating class (order Pecora,
~
Linn.) ; and of that tribe the most important member, and -
the :ovst influential on the destinies of Africa, is the poe y
or “sh_p of the desert,”as it is beautifully called in the figura-
tive la.guage of the Arabs. ‘‘ Of all animals,” says Buffon,
“the cariel is the most ancient, the completest, and most
laborion.¢ slave. He is the most ancient slave, because he
inhabits «zose climates where men were first polished. He
is the tu #4 complete slave, because in the other
domestic animals, as the horse, the dog, the ox, the sheep,
3"
QUADRUPEDS. . 315
tue hog, &c. we still find individuals in a state of nature,
and which have not submitted to man. But the whole spe-
cies of the camel is enslaved; for none of them exist in
their primitive state of liberty and independence. Lastly,
he is the most laborious slave, because he has never been
nourished for pomp, like most horses, nor for amusement,
like most dogs, nor for the use of the table, like the ox, the
hog, and the sheep; because he has always been made a
beast of burden, whom men have never taken the trouble
of yoking in machines, but have regarded the body of the
animal as a living carriage, which they may load or over-
load, even during sleep ; for when pressed, the load is séme-
times not taken off, but the animal lies down under it, with
his legs folded, and his body resting on his stomach.”
There are two species of camel. The Bactrian species,
or camel pruperly so called (Camelus Bactrianus), is cha-
racterized by a couple of humps,—one on the rump, and
another above the shoulders. It is an Asiatic animal, and
is said still to roam wild in the desert of Shamo, on the fron-
tiers of China. It is capable of being acclimated, without
much difficulty, in comparatively northern countries, and
was introduced into Tuscany by the Grand Duke Leopold,
where it still breeds in the maremmas of the Pisan territory
It has, however, neither spread over the country, nor be-
come at all extensively useful for the general purposes of
rural labour. This is chiefly attributed to the improvident
calculations of the minister Salviati, who, on their first in-
troduction demanded about a thousand francs apiece from
such as inclined to purchase these animals for the sake of
extending the breed. They are frequently seen in the
streets of Pisa, carrying firewood,- or other articles of do-
mestic consumption, from the present Grand Duke’s farms.
It is this species which is employed in Thibet and 'Tur-
kistan.
The other species of camel (C. dromedarius) has only a
single hump on its back. It has spread from Arabia all over
the northern parts of Africa, and has long been essential to
the commerce of those dry and desert regions. It is also
found in Syria, Persia, d&c., and was known under the
name of Arabian camel to the ancient writers. The tcrm
dromedary (from the Greek dpoyds), originally applied to a
varicty of this species, remarkable for its swiftness, as the
316 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
name imports, is now for the most part bestowed on the spe
cies itself.
“To the wild Arab of the desert, the camel is all that his
necessities require. He feeds on the ne drinks the milk,
makes clothes and tentsof the hair; belt ls, saddles,
and buckets of the hide; he conveys himself and family on
his back, makes his pillow of his side, and his shelter of him
against the whirlwind of sand. Couched in acircle around
him, his camels forma fence, and in battle an intrenchment
behind which his family and property are obstinately, and
often successfully defended. All these advantages are a
necessary result of the constitutional faculties and struc-
ture of the camel when residing in the locality assigned
him by nature: under another atmosphere, his qualifica-
tions become less important, and his conformation less ap-
plicable. In Tartary and Southern Russia, where the Bac
trian species (longer of body and shorter of limb than the
Arabian) is harnessed to wheel-carriages, and even to the
plough, the elevation of his shoulders evidently produces a
waste of strength ; and, in a country where herbage and
water are proportionally abundant, his sobriety is not re-
quired. If the camel is transferred to rocky and moun-
tainous regions, his feet soon wear, and he ascends and de-
scends with great awkwardness. If he be brought into
temperate regions, the frequent mud, and above all, the
thawed snows, soften his feet, and he is unable to work ;
as is at least partially experienced in Central and Northern
Asia, notwithstanding that the Bactrian camel, again pro-
vided by nature for his particular locality, has soles of
greater hardness than the Arabian, and the dissolution of
the snow is excessively rapid when once begun.” — Griffith's
Animal Kingdom, vol. iv. p. 40.
The ancient authors do not seem to take notice of the ca-
mel as an inhabitant of Northern Africa. It is, however, ~
mentioned in Genesis (chap. xii. ver. 16) as among the
gifts bestowed by Pharaoh on Abram, and must therefore
have been well known on the banks of the Nile at a period
anterior to the oldest of the Greek or Roman writers. It has
indeed been remarked as a singular circumstance, | thei
Romans, who carried on such frequent wars in Africa, |
not have thought of mentioning these animals, till Proco-:
pius noticed camel-riding Moors in arms against Solomon,
~
QUADRUPEDS. 317
—
the lieutenant of Belisarius. Their uses in modern times
are so well known, and all books of African travel are so
frequent in tueir description of these decile beasts of burden
that we deem it unnecessary to dwell any longer on the
subject. . as |
Very few animals of the deer kind, properly so called, are
found in Africa. The red deer, however (Cervas elaphrus),
one of the noblest of the tribe, and the most stately of all the
wild animals still indigenous to Britain, occurs in some of
its northern quarters. But to these it was not improbably
imported, at some unknown period, from Europe. .
Before proceeding to the more abundant family of the
antelopes, of which Africa is the great emporium, we shall
mention, as a species entirely peculiar to-this continent, the
giraffe or camelopard, the tallest and, in every other respect,
one of the most singular of quadrupeds. Its appearance is
too familiar to our readers to require description. We shall
merely state that it is a timid and gentle animal, feeding
principally on the leaves of trees (especially those of the
genus Mimosa), and inhabiting the plains of Central and
Southern Africa. Its gait, or mode of progression, is de
scribed as extraordinary by Mr. Lichtenstein. ‘We had
scarcely travelled an hour when the Hottentots called our
attention to some object on a hill not far off on the left
hand, which seemed to move. The head of something ap-
peared almost immediately after, feeding on the other side
of the hill, and it was concluded that it must be that of a
very large animal. This was confirmed, when after going
scarcely a hundred steps farther, two tall swan-necked
giraffes stood almost directly before us. Our transports were
indescribable, particularly as the creatures themselves did
not perceive us, and therefore gave us full time to examine
them, and to prepare for an earnest and serious chase. The
one was smaller and of a paler colour than the other, which
Vischer immediately pronounced to be a colt, the child of
the larger. Our horses were saddled, and our guns loaded
in an instant, when the chase commenced. Since all the
wild animals of Africa run against the wind, so that we
were pretty well assured which way the course of these
objects of our ardent wishes would be directed, Vischer, as
e most experienced hunter, separated himself from us, and
Dd2
318 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA,
by a circuit took the animals in front, that he might stop
-heir way, while I was to attack them in the rear. I had
almost got within shot of them when they perceived me,
and began to fly in the direction we expected. But their
flight was so beyond all idea extraordinary, that, between
laughter, astonishment, and delight, I almost forgot my de-
signs upon the harmless creatures’ lives. From the extra-
vagant disproportion between the height of the fore to that
of the hinder parts, and of the height to the length of the
animal, great obstacles are presented to its moving with any
degree of swiftness. When Le Vaillant asserts that he has
seen the giraffe trot, he spares me any farther trouble in
proving that this animal never presented itself alive before
him.* How in the world should an animal, so dispropor-
tioned in height before and behind, trot? The giraffe can
only gallop, as I can affirm from my own experience, having
seen between forty and fifty at different times, both in their
slow and hasty movement, for they only stop when they are
feeding quietly. But this gallop is so heavy and unwieldy,
and seems performed with so much labour, that in a distance
of more than a hundred paces, comparing the ground cleared
with the size of the animal and of the surrounding objects,
it might almost be said that a man goes faster on foot.
The heaviness of the movement is only compensated by the
length of the steps, each one of which clears, on a moderate
computation, from twelve to sixteen feet.” A tolerably
good horse overtakes the giraffe without difficulty, especially
over rising ground. ee
Camelopards were known to the Romans, and were ex-
hibited in the Circean Games by Cesar the dictator. The
Emperor Gordian afterward exhibited ten at a single show ,
and tolerably accurate figures of this animal, both in a
browsing and grazing attitude, have been handed down b
the Prenestine pavement. During the darker ages, and
some centuries after the revival of learning, it seems to
have remained unknown to Europeans ; but, about the mid-
dle of the sixteenth century, the emperor of Germany, Fre-
. 1m
%
7 «
4
* Tt would be more proper, and equally logical, rather to infer
Le Vaillant misapplied the term which he made use of to designate
movements of the camelopard, than that he imagined himself to have seet
an a alive which had never presented itself to him in that :
cea . oro
- QUADRUPEDS. 319
dericus nobarbus, received one from the sultan of Bapy-
lon. Lorenzo de Medicis was also presented with a live
_camelopard by the bey of Tunis; and in our own times
they have been received by the kings both of France and
England from the (late) dey of Algiers.
Africa is the country of antelopes. These creatures are
the most lively, graceful, and beautifully proportioned of
the brute creation. Wherever known, they have attracted
the attention and admiration of mankind from the earliest
ages; and the beauty of their dark and lustrous eyes affords
a frequent theme to the poetical imaginings of the eastern
poets: Their names are of frequent occurrence in the most
ancient of the eastern mythologies, and their figures occur
among the oldest of the astronomical symbols. Naturalists
are more or less acquainted with about fifty species, the
greater proportion of which are peculiar to the African con-
tinent.
The blue antelope (Antilope leucophea), formerly met with
in the Cape colony, is now so rare in South Africa, that no
specimen has been killed there since the year 1799. ~ Its his-
tory and manners are little known. The roan antelope (A.
equina) isa very, large animal, measuring nearly eight feet in
length. It was found by Mr. Burchell among the moun-
tainous plains in the vicinity of Lattakoo. The Caffrarian
oryx (A. oryx) is an animal equally remarkable for the
vigour as the beauty of its form. It inhabits elevated forests
and the rocky regions of Southern Africa, and is exceed-
ingly fieree during the rutting season, especially when
wounded. A friend of Major Smith’s having fired at one
of these antelopes, it immediately turned upon his dogs, and
transfixed one of them upon the spot. They afford the best
venison of any of the species found in the south of Africa.
The small white buffalo mentioned by Captain Lyon as oc-
curring in the Great Desert south of Tunis, was no doubt a
species of oryx. Another animal of very showy aspect be-
longing to this tribe is the addaz, recently transmitted from
Nubia by M. Riippell. They reside in pairs on the barren
deserts, and, extending over the whole Sahara, are found as
- far west as Senegal. The white-faced antelope (A. py-
arga) is inferior in size to the stag of Europe. According to
Major Smith, this species does not seem to be known in
320 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
Central Africa. It is found in the regions which border the .
colony of the Cape, and is called blessbock by the Duteli,
In manners it resembles the gnu, and lives i in small families
of seven or eight.
The springer antelope (A. euchon) is Hérood springbock
by the Dutch. It inhabits the plains of Southern and Cen-
tral Africa, and assembles in vast flocks durmg its migra-
tory movements. “These migrations, which are said to
take place in their most numerous form only at the intervals
of several years, appear to come from the north-east, and in
masses of many thousands, devouring, like locusts, every
green herb. The lion has been seen to migrate, and walk
in the midst of the compressed phalanx, with only as*much
space between him and his victims as the fears of those im-
mediately around could procure by pressing outwards. The
foremost of these vast columns are fat, and the rear exceed-
ingly lean, while the direction continues one way; but
with the change of the monsoon, when they return towards
the north, the rear become the leaders, fattening in their
turn, and leaving the others to starve, and to be devoured
by the numerous enemies who follow their march. At all
times when impelled by fear, either of the hunter or the
beast of prey darting among the flock, but principally when
the herds aré assembled in countless multitudes, so that an
alarm cannot spread rapidly and open the means of flight,
they are pressed against each other, and their anxiety to es-
cape impels them to bound up in the air, showing, at the
same time, the white spot on the croup dilated by the effort,
and closing again in their descent, and producing that beauti-
ful effect from which they have obtained the name of
Springer and Showy-bock.” —Grifith’s Animal Kngdom,
vol. iv. p. 209.
The kevel (A. kevella) is nearly allied to the dorenis but
does not appear to occur to the north of the Atlas, with the ©
exception, perhaps, of the western coast of Morocco. In
Central Africa, across the banks of the Congo, and south-
wards as far as the country of tlie Caffres, it forms nu-
merous flocks. The pallah (A. melampus) is a beautiful
species, mentioned by Lichtenstein. It is described as a
model of elegance and vigour, and is a native of Caffraria,
especially the Boshuana country. It never. appears to the
south of the Koorges Vallev The klipspringer (A. oreo
QUADRUPEDS. 321
tragus) was formerly very abundant near the Cape, but is
now rare, except in the interior of the country. They ~
dwell among rocky precipices, and spring from cliff to cliff
with surprising strength and agility. The steenbock
(A. rupestris) likewise dwells.among the rocks. It is found
near Algoa Bay, but is now rare in the Cape colony. The
vlackti steenbock (A. rufescens) is among the most beautiful
of the smaller antelopes of Africa. The name of vlackti is
bestowed upon it, in consequence of its inhabiting the plains
or open country. The bush-antelope (A. silvicultriz) is
found at Sierra Leone, where it is called the bush-goat. It
usually quits its cover in search of food about sunrise.
The four-tufted antelope (A. quadriscopa) is a native of
Senezal. The duicker bock (A. mergens) is a timid species,
fearful of thunder and other unaccustomed sounds. It in-
habits bushes, and rises every now and then upon its hind
legs for the sake of surveying its vicinity. It then stoops
down and darts under cover, from which custom it has no
doubt obtained the name of duicker, or the stooper. The
guevei (A. pygma@a) consists of two well-marked varieties,
if two distinct species have not been confounded under a
single name. At present we shall allude only to the
smaller, which is remarkable for its diminutive size. A
female in Bullock’s Museum scarcely exceeded the general
dimensions of a Norway rat, and the legs were no thicker
than a goose’s quill. ‘The gueveis are brought from the
coast of Guinea, and are sometimes observed to occur in
the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope.
One of the largest of the African antelopes is the bubale
(A. bubalis of Pallas), equal in size to a stag. It congre-
gates in troops, among which frequent and sometimes fatal
combats take place. This species was well known to the
ancients, and is represented among the hieroglyphical
figures of the temples of Upper Egypt. It inhabits Barbary
and the Great Desert of Northern Africa.
We may here mention the gnu, as an animal classed by
Sparrman and others among the antelopes. It assembles
in large herds among the southern, and probably the central
deserts of Africa. It is not now found nearer the Cape
than the great Karroo district. Of this animal there ap-
pears to be more species than one.
‘
‘
322 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
The next group which demands our notice is the bovine
tribe, including all the larger kinds of horned cattle. Of
these, the only species peculiar to Africa is the Bos caffer,
or Cape buffalo, the qu’araho of the Hottentots, a fierce and
vindictive animal of great strength. This species is cha-
racterized by the dark rufous colour of its horns, which
spread horizontally over the summit of the head, with their
beams bent down laterally, and the points turned up.
They are from eight to ten inches broad at the base, and
divided only by a slight groove, extremely ponderous, cellu-
lar near the root, and five feet long, measured from tip to
tip along the curves. The hide is black and almost naked,
especially in old animals. This buffalo lives in herds, or
small families, in the brushwood and open forests of Gaf-
fraria. According to Sparrman, he is not content with
simply killing the person whom he attacks, but he stands
over him for some time in order to trample him with his
hoofs and heels, at the same time crushing him with his
knees, and tearing to pieces and mangling his whole body,
and finally stripping off the skin -with his tongue. The
surest way to escape is, if possible, to ride up a hill, as the
great bulk of the buffalo’s body, like that of the elephant, is
a weight sufficient to prevent his vying with the slender
and fine-limbed horse in swiftness. It is said, however,
that in going down hill, this formidable animal gets on
much faster than the horse. .
The goat and sheep tribe, so valuable, especially the lat-
ter, to the human race, present respectively a species pecu-
har to the continent of Africa. The Egyptian goat, by
some however regarded as nothing more than a variety of
the domestic breed, is distinguished by the great convexity
of its facial line, and a depression between the face and the |
forehead. ‘The lower jaw projects beyond the upper; the
ears are long and flat, and the horns are either very small,’
and arched slightly backwards, or are entirely wanting.
The female scarcely differs from the male in external ap-
pearance, with the exception of the straighter outline of
the face. It inhabits Upper Egypt. The other animal
above alluded to is ealled the bearded sheep (Ovis tragela
phus). It inhabits the desert steeps of Barbary and th
mountainous portions of Egypt.
BIRDS. 323
We have now enumerated, with occasionet brief descrip-
tions and interspersed notices of their history and habits,
the greater proportion of the more remaykable quadrupeds
of Africa. ‘To extend the list would have been both easy
and agreeable ; but we trust that the preceding sketch will
suffice to exhibit the prevailing and peculiar features of
this branch of African zoology, even though our confined
limits should have excluded many minor details, not in
themselves devoid of interest, though unessential to our
present undertaking. ‘The great preponderance of the
antelope tribe, the existence of the giraffe and the hippopo-
tamus, andthe numerous troops of equine animals, such as
the zebra and the quagga, may be stated as forming the
principal zoological characters of this extensive continent.
CHAPTER XIX.
Nature! History of the Birds of Africa.
WE shall next take a rapid survey of some other depart-
ments of the natural history of Africa; and continuing, as
we have commenced, with a certain degree of systematic
arrangement, the second great class which attracts the
attention of the traveller is that of birds.
The arid and wide-spread plains which compose so large
a portion of this continent, are unfavourable to the existence
and multiplication of the feathered race. Yet the more
umbrageous banks of rivers, the extensive forests which
here and there prevail to check the drifting of the desert-
sand, and those green and grateful oases which towards
evening cast their far shadows across a waterless land,
harbour in their cool recesses many a gorgeous form of fea-
thered life. Nor can we suppose that the mountain-summits,
and those Szerras which occasionally interrupt the horizontal
view of the bleached wilderness, are uninhabited by birds of
prey, eagle-eyed and swift of wing, there perched securely
amid their rocky fortresses, but ever ready to descend with
eager cry, when the blast of the simoom overwhelms the
324 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
a
exhausted caravan, or the weary camel “ship of th
desert” is seen to stoop its mast-like neck, and t
hue of death suffuses its gentle eye, not from the turbulence,
_but the want of waves. And if, as has been supposed,
some of the great African rivers empty their translucent
streams into an interior and sea-like lake, many an un-
known but beautiful aquatic bird must haunt its mysterious
and long-sought-for shores, and revel in the crystal depths
of those delusive waters which have already led on to death
s0 many of our brave and devoted countrymen. To these,
however, so long as heroic enterprise is valued, they will
likewise prove the waters of immortality, thovtgh, to their
surviving and deploring friends, bitter as the fountain of
Marah.* .
If the multiplicity of species, even in the class of quad-
rupeds, be found an insuperable obstacle to a detailed ac-
count in such a publication as the present, far more must
we curtail our remarks when treating of the feathered race,
the number of which, not unfamiliar to the ornithologist, _
does probably not fall far short of 6000 species. Let us
commence with the carnivorous tribes.
Several species of vulture occur in Africa, where, as in
other countries, they follow troops of armed men,
“ Sagacious of their quarry from afar,”
in the hope of ere long preying on their slaughtered bodies.
It is, however, by the sense of sight, and not by that of
smell, that these birds so quickly discover and assemble
round their victims on the battle-field.
The eared vulture (?oricou of Le Vaillant) is a gregarious
species which inhabits the southern parts of Africa. Their
nests are placed very near each other, and the birds are seen ©
sitting in vast numbers about the caverns of the rocky moun-
tains where they breed.
- A doubtful species called the armed ey is mentioned |
* The writer of these notices dwelt at one time, during his’ borhood,
for many months in the family, and constant com Hen of the I
Jamented Major Laing, and was in habits either o intimacy 7
‘correspondence with the unfortunate Bowdich, Ondness Clap footst anc
the younger Park, who so lately perished sillowing his father 3 P
'
BIRDS. 325
by Browne in his African Travels, and is said to be ex-
tremely frequent in the country of Darfur, where it flies
about in thousands. .
The African snake-eater (Falco serpentarius, Linn.) is
usually placed between the vultures and hawks. It isa long-
legged species, of peculiar aspect, resembling in some re-
spects rather a wader than a bird of prey. It inhabits dry
open plains in the lower parts of Southern Africa, and feeds
on reptiles. Le Vaillant found in the craw of a single bird
twenty-one young tortoises, three snakés, and eleven lizards,
and, besides these, there was a large ball in the stomach
formed entirely of the scales of tortoises, the vertebrae of
snakes and lizards, the legs of locusts, and the wing-cases
of coleopterous insects.
_ Of more noble habits are the eagles, hawks, and other
birds of prey, which, for the most part, disdaining the cor-
tupting carcasses, whether of man or beast, overcome by
speed of wing, and pounce with their talons on all such
living creatures as they ate able to subdue.
Among the eagles of Aftica may be mentioned the grif-
fard eagle (Falco armiger), native to the country of the Na-
maquas, and the imperial eagle (F. imperialis of Temm.)
described by Savigny in the splendid French work on Egypt.
This latter species also inhabits the mountains of the south-
ern parts of Europe. —
Of the numerous hawks, or smaller species of the falcon
tribe which inhabit this continent, we shall mention in the
first place, the chanting falcon (F. musicus, Daudin). We
must not suppose, from the name of this species, that its
‘notes in ahy way resemble the harmonious tones of the
nightingale, or those of even our less celebrated songsters.
Its voice is merely a little clearer than usual, although it
seems impressed with a high idea of its own powers. It
will sit for half a day perched upon the summit of a tall
tree, uttering incessant cries, which the darkness of the
night is sometimes insufficient to terminate. It builds in
woods in the interior of Caffraria, and commits great havoc
among quails and partridges. The crested African faleon
(F. galericulatus) resembles the peregrine falcon of Europe.
It dwells by the seashore and the borders of lakes, and feeds
on fish, crabs, and the testaceous tribes. The ranivorus, or
frog-eating falcon (F. was is a native of the Cape of
| e
326 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
Good Hope. It appears to be allied to the moor-buzzards
in its manners. It builds its nest among rushes, with the
stalks of the leaves of water-plants, and feeds chiefiy on
frogs and young waterfowl.
The next family of carnivorous birds are the nocturnal
tribes called owls, which may be said to bear the same re-
lation to the more active and elegant hawks that moths do
. to butterflies. Africa is by no means rich in owls, at least
very few have attracted the notice of travellers in that
country. We shall here mention only the very beautiful
falconian owl of Latham (Sirzz Africana), which appears
_ during the short-lived twilight, and moves with rapid flight.
We may place, as intermediate between the regular birds
of prey and the passerine species, those called butcher-birds,
of which Africa produces a great variety of kinds. The
habits of the collared shrike (Lanius collaris) are described
by Le Vaillant. When it sees a locust, a mantis, or a small
bird, it springs upon it and immediately carries it off, in or-
der to impale it on a thorn, which it does with great dexte-
rity, always passing the thorn through the head of its vie-
tim. Every animal which it seizes is ; subjected to the same
fate ; and it thus continues all day long its murderous ca-
reer, apparently instigated rather by the love of mischief
than the desire of food. Its throne of tyranny is usually
a dry and elevated branch of a tree, from which it pounces
on all intruders, driving off the stronger and more trouble-
some, and impaling the inexperienced alive. When hun-
gry, it visits its shambles, and helps itself to a savoury
meal. The Hottentots assured Le Vaillant that it does not
love fresh food, and therefore leaves its prey on the gib-
bet till it becomes putrescent. But beneath the scorching
sun of Africa this process of decomposition sometimes does -
not take place, from the rapid exhalation of the animal
fluids in a warm and arid atmosphere ; and, consequently,
whatever spiny shrub may have been chosen dy the butcher-
bird as the place of execution, is frequently found covered
not with sweet-smelling and many-coloured blossoms,
with the dried carcasses of singing-birds,,and the the bodies
locusts and other insects of the larger size.
ble and irascible bird is aan and described in inthe ah
BIRDS. | 327
part (plate 52) of the valuable “Illustrations of Ornitho-
logy,” so well conducted by Sir William Jardine, Bart., and
Mr. Selby. Several species of shrike likewise occur in the
island of Madagascar.
With species pertaining to the beautiful and melodious
family of the thrushes, Africais by no mean3 abundantly sup-
plied. The Cape thrush (genus Brachypus, Swainson) is
found, as its name imports, in Southern Africa, and another
species (7. Phenicopterus,'Temm.) occurs in Senegal. Ita
plumage is ofa fine bronzed black, glossed with blue and violet
the wings and tail are dull black, with all the feathers edged with
metallic green ; the wing-coverts are bright red ; the beak and
legs are black. If, however, we were to regard the genus
as formerly constituted, we should here name some of the
most splendid of the feathered race ; forexample, the shin-
ing thrush, and that other species called the blue and green
daw by Edwards, both of which probably belong to the
genus Lamprotornis, the greater proportion of which seems
peculiar to Africa. The rose-coloured ouzel, one of the
rarest and most beautiful of British birds, is also found in
Africa, where its love of locusts is more amply gratified
than we hope it will ever be in this cold and cloudy clime.
Passing over the extensive family of the sylviade, which
includes the finest song-birds of temperate countries, we
shall here present the remark that the feathered tribes
of tropical and other sultry regions are in general more
distinguished for their gorgeous plumage than the harmony
or varied intonation of their voices. It is chiefly among the
obscure and monotonously-plumed species that we find the
most accomplished warblers, such as the sombre nightin-
gale, which in the leafy arbours of France and England
makes such rich amends for his unadorned and quaker-like
attire :
“The wakeful bird
Sings darkling, and, in shadiest covert hid,
Tunes her* nocturnal notes.”
Among the Fringillide we may notice the buntings, of
which the Whidah-bird, or long-tailed bunting (genus Vidua,
* We are not awarethat the female nightingale sings,—but the words
of Milton are sacred.
¢
w
328 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
Cuvier), is remarkable for the changes which the male bird
assumes at certain seasons of the year, and which, from the
dropping away of the lengthened feathers of the tail, and
the alteration in the colours of various parts of the plumage,
produce a total difference in the appearance of that sex,
Angola is its native country, There is a nearly-allied spe-
cies from the Cape of Good Hope.
The Greeks applied the name Kodows to a small species
of crow, probably the jackdaw. The same term has been
used in later times to designate a genus of birds found in
Africa, though not peculiar to that continent,—the genus
Colius, These birds, though the structure of their feet
offers no analogous formation, climb trees like parakeets,
dwell in large troops, build together numerous nests on the
same bushes, and are sometimes found sleeping together in
masses, suspended by the feet, with their heads downwards
They live on fruits, and occur both at the Cape of Good
Hope and in Senegal.
Of the genus Buphaga, peculiar to Africa, there are only
two species, called the African and the red-billed beef-
eaters. The former is a singular bird, both in its aspect
and manners. It is frequent in Senegal, and its food con-
sists of the larve of estri or gadflies, which it picks from
beneath the skin of the larger cattle. Le Vaillant also ob-
served it in the country of the Namaquas, and he states
that it is usually seen in flocks of six or eight together.
Several species of roller inhabit the African continent.
The European roller, commonly so called (Coracias gar-
rula), is in fact an African species, although it sometimes
beautifies the woods of more northern countries with its
azure hues. Other species are found in the Angolese and
Abyssinian territories. |
Of the goat-sucker tribe, generically distributed over —
almost every country of the world, Africa also possesses a
few species, of which one of great beauty was lately dis-
covered by Ruppell, the Frankfort traveller, in Nubia and
Sennaar. It is the Caprimulgus eximius of M. Temminck,
The last-named genus conducts naturally to the swallow
tribe, of which Africa, if not the native country, is at least
supposed to share with us the society for one-half the year,
Besides its migratory species, it possesses several of a less -
restless character, which dwell there throughout the entire
BIRDS. —- 329.
season, and remain for ever in ignorance of those cool and
refreshing waters into which our own delightful visitants
are so often seen to dip their slender wings. AE
The hoopoes resemble the swallows in their migratory
movements, but they are classed with the Tenuzrostres, on
account of their slender bills. ‘The common hoopoe, though .
an African bird, has been several times shot in Britain;
and the marcheur largup of Le Vaillant appears to belong
to the same genus, and inhabits the country of the Caffres.
Nearly united to the last-named species are the prome-
rops, a limited but magnificent group, different species of
which are found in Africa, India, and New-Guinea. ‘The
most remarkable of the African kinds is the red-billed
promerops (P. erythrorhynchus), probab‘y first described by
Dr. Iiatham, from a specimen in the collection of the
Dutchess of Portland. [ts length, including the tail, is 15
inches. The general colour is black, glossed with red,
violet, and golden-yreen; the red predominates on the
head, the golden-green on the wing-coverts, and the violet
on the back and tail. All the tail-feathers, except the two
in the centre, are marked near the tip by an oval white spot
on each side the web; and several of the quill feathers of
the wings have also a white spot on their inner webs, near
thetip. The bill is long, slender, moderately curved, and
of a red or orange colour. The legs are also red.
Although Africa cannot boast of possessing any of those
jewels of ornithology, the fairy humming-birds, which dart
like paging among the flowery parterres of the western
world,— 4
“ And on their restless fronts
Bear stars, illuinination of all gems ;”
yet the eye of the naturalist who has studied the unsur-
passed splendour of the soui-mangas, or sugar-eaters, will
scarcely desiderate any other beauty. These birds, b-long-
ing to the genus Cynniris of Baron Cuvier, were formerly
classed with the creepers. They are distinguished bv their
long and slender bills, the mandibles of which are finely
toothed or serrated on their edges ; and their tongues, which
are capable of considerable extension, are terminatec by a
small fork. Several of the species occur in the Indian
archipelago, but the ~.. proportion are of African
2
°
330 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA
8
origi, and may be said to form the most signal and ad-.
mired feature in the ornithology of that country.
The superb creeper is an elegant bird, described and
figured in the magnificent work of M. Vieillot. Its length
is six inches: the crown of the head, upper part of the
neck, smaller wing-coverts, back, and rump, are bright
greenish-gold ; the throat is violet-blue, glossed with gold ;
across the upper part of the breast runs a bar of bright
gilded-yellow, beneath which the whole upper parts are
deep-brownish crimson; the wings and tail are blackish-
brown; the legs are also brown, and the bill is black.
This species was discovered in Malimba, by M. Perrien,
and is one of the rarest as well as most beautiful of the
genus.
Another highly-adorned species, such as
‘“‘ Limners love to paint, and ladies to look upon,”
is called, par excellence, the African creeper. It is a native
of the Cape of Good Hope, and is found in woody situa-
tions. In addition to a splendid plumage, it is highly ad-
mired for its musical powers, and its song is by some
esteemed equal to that of the nightingale.
The spotted-breasted vreeper (C. maculata) dwells in the
forests of Malimba, and frequently approaches the habita-
tions of the natives, allured by the flowers of the cytisus
cajan, commonly called the Congo pea, which, according to
Dr. Shaw is much cultivated by the negroes. The violet-
headed creeper (C. violacea) is a native of the Cape of Good
Hope. It likewise dwells in woods, and is said to build a
nest of singularly elegant and ingenious structure. Our re-
stricted limits will not admit of our expatiating on this de-
lightful tribe.
The next African genus which claims our attention is ~
Merops, which imcludes the bee-eaters, a group not more
remarkable for beauty of colour than gracefulness of form,
These birds feed on insects, and build their nests in the
holes of banks. ‘The common bee-eater (Merops apzaster),
notwithstanding its designation, is one of the rarest of ]
ropean birds, and is certainly one of the most beautiful. |
occurs in Africa, and spreads from thence into Greece
the Mediterranean Archipelago. Many other ound
BIRDS. = Baa
+ °
- bee-eater inhabit this continent; but for these we must
refer the reader to Le Vaillant and other writers.
Amid the infinitely varied forms and colours which cha-
racterize and adorn the feathered race, we know of none
more worthy of admiration than those exhibited by the
great family of ‘he kingfishers. The size and length of the ~
bill are indeed somewhat disproportioned to the dimensions
of the body; but the shining silky lustre of the plumage,
and the finely varied hues of the most brilliant green, and
blue, contrasted with different shades of orange, black, and
brown, render this genus one of the most showy and at-
tractive within the range of the ornithological system.
The continent which forms the subject of our present dis-
quisition is rich in the genus. We shall’at present, how-
ever,» mention only the Smyrna kingfisher (A. Smyr-
nensis), which, when in perfect plumage, is one of the most
brilliant of the feathered race.—‘‘ The lucid blue of the
wings,” says Dr. Shaw, “scarcely yielding in lustre to
those of the splendid butterfly called Papilio Menelaus.”
Its colours seem to vary in different individuals. Several
fine species of this extensive genus occur in the island of
Madagascar. r
Among the more remarkable of the African birds we
must not omit to mention the species of the genus Buceros,
commonly called hornbills. These occur also in Celebes
and the Philippine Islands, but many species are peculiar
to Africa. . The hornbills may be said to occupy the same
station in the old world as the toucans do in the new.
Both are alike distinguished by the enormous size of their
bills, and by a mixture in their dispositions of the carni-
vorous with the frugivorous propensities. The African
hornbill (B. Africanus) is entirely black, and nearly as large
as a turkey. The only other species of this singular genus
which we shall mention, is the crowned hornbill (B. coro-
natus). Compared with the preceding it is a very small
bird, scarcely equalling the dimensions of a magpie. Le
Vaillant saw a flock of more than five hundred of these
birds assembled in company with crows and vultures, and
preying on the remains of slaughtered elephants. The
«crowned hornbill is figured by Mr. Swainson in the third
volume of his beautiful illustrations.
We shall now take a brief view of the scansorial or
332 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
climbing birds of Africa. Several mondpeckoan inhabit this
continent. The double-bearded woodpecker (Picus dio-
phrys) inhabits Southern Africa; ana the crested wood-
pecker (P. nunutus, Temm.) is ‘found in Senegal. The
gold-shafted woodpecker (now placed in the genus Colaptes)
is likewise an African species. i,
Many kinds of cuckoo occur in Africa. The old Lin-
nean genus Cuculus has been greatly subdivided by modern
writers. The group included under the genus Centropus
are remarkable for the long claw with which the inner hind
toe is furnished. ‘They are found in India, Africa, and the
island of Java. The didric or shining cuckoo (Cuculus
auratus) is probably the most beantiful of the tribe. The
upper parts of the plumage are of a rich golden-green; on
the head are five stripes of white, two above the eyes, like
eyebrows, passing behind ; two more, shorter and narrower,
beneath the eyes; and one on the middle of the forehead.
The wing and tail coverts, and the secondary quills are
tipped with white. Most of the under-parts are likewise
white. This bird was found by Le Vaillant, inwards from
the Cape, near Kok’s Kraal. He named it didric, from its |
continually uttering these syllables in various modulations,
when perched on the extremities of large trees.
While recording the names of so many species remark-
able for their lustrous plumage, we must not here omit to
mention others not less notable for their singular instincts
and modes of life. Among these the indicators or honey-
guides, by some authors classed with the cuckoos, are de-
serving of special notice. One species described by Dr.
Sparrman is said to attract the notice of the Dutch and
Hottentots by a shrill cry of cher, cher; and when it per-
ctives itself observed, it flutters onwards to the hive of a
wild bee, in hopes of partaking of the plundered honey.
“‘T have had frequent opportunities of seeing this bird, and .
have been witness to the destruction of several republics
of bees, by means of its treachery. -I had, however, but
two opportunities of shooting it, which I did’ to the great
indignation of my Hottentots.”
__ We may here observe, that naturalists themselves seem
occasionally to belong to that irritable genus, of which
poets are said to form the principal component parts.
Though Sparrman asserts that he was e@ frequent eyewil-
a)
- BIRDS. 333
ness of the curious instinctive habits of the honey-guide,
yet Le Vaillant doubts if that traveller ever saw the bird at
all. He says that the account is merely a repetition of a
fable that is known and believed by credulous people at the
Cape, and that it is false to suppose that the bird seeks to
draw man after it for the purpose of sharing the plundered
sweets ; the fact being that the bird calls not the man, but
that the man knows by attending to the natural cry of the
bird in search of food, that he will be sure ere long to find
the stores of the bee. According to Bruce, the moroc, for
so this singular species is sometimes named, occurs in
Abyssinia; but he also throws discredit on Sparrman’s
relation. We have seen, in the preceding chapter, that
Lichtenstein doubted the truth of Le Vaillant’s account of
the camelopard; we now find Le Vaillant himself equally
skeptical of the accuracy of the Swedish traveller, and
joined therein by Bruce, whose own statements were at
one period scarcely credited at all. However, to conclude
a subject which has already too long detained us, we shall
observe that Mr. Barrow, a most careful and accurate in-
guirer, though not a professed zoologist, confirms Dr.
Sparrman’s account, as follows :—‘“ Every one in that
country (the interior of the southern extremity of Africa) is
too well acquainted with the moroc to have any doubts as
to the certainty either respecting the bird or its information
of the repositories of the bees.”
The sagacious and imitative family of the parrots (Pszt-
tacid@) is the next to demand a brief record. Though one of
the most numerous groups of the feathered creation, it is by
no means abundant in species, when considered merely in
reference to its African relations. ‘The gorgeous maccaws
are peculiar to South America, the cockatoos to. New-Hol-
land and the Eastern Islands, the lories to the East Indies -
_ and the Moluccas; and the greater proportion of parrots
and parakeets, commonly so called, are more truly charace
teristic of the tropical regions of other countries than of
Africa. Yet here also this noisy and loquacious race are
not unknown, although the far-spread forests are its chosen
dwelling-places rather than the barren sands. Africa, how-
ever, has also her shady bowers as well as thirsty Saharas ;
‘‘ For He, at whose command the parched rock
Was smitten, and poured forth a quenching stream,
334 NASURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
Hath softened that obduracy, and made
Unlooked-for gladness in the desert place
‘To save the perishing.”
The Greeks and Romans became acquainted with the
parrot kind, in consequence of certain ‘species of these birds
having been imported from the East soon after Alexander’s
Indian expedition. The Alexandrian parrot, especially, so
remarkable for its elegant form and docile disposition, is
generally supposed to have been brought to Europe about
that time from the island of Ceylon, the ancient Tabrobane.
In the reign of Nero, the Romans introduced other species
from different quarters of Africa. They were highly prized
by that luxurious people, who iodzed them in superb cages
of silver, ivory, and tortoise-shell ; and the price of a parrot
in those days frequently exceeded that of a slave. Nor did
Ovid think it beneath him to write a lengthened elegy on
the death of Corinna’s parrot,—a bird, which, in the love it
bore its mistress, seems to have emulated that of the dying
Greek for his country :—
‘* Clamavit moriens lingua, Corinna, vale!
It is only in these degenerate days that the keeping ot a
cockatoo is brought forward in a court of justice in proof of
an alienated or imbecile mind.* We trust, that in some
instances, at least, such inference may be fairly classed as
a ‘non sequitur.”
One of the earliest imported of the African species ap-
pears to have been the gray or ash-coloured parrot (Psit--
tacus erithacus), still remarkable for its easy loquacity and
general imitative powers. To this species probably be-
longed the individual mentioned by Celius Rhodoginus, and
which belonged to Cardinal Ascanius. ‘I cannot,” says
that author, “omit an extraordinary wonder seen in our —
times. ‘This was a parrot at Rome, belonging to Cardinal
Ascanius, who purchased it for a hundred gold pieces, and
which, in the most articulate and uninterrupted manner,
recited the Apostles’ Creed as well as the best reader could
have done, and which, as a most extraordinary and won-
derful thing, I could not pass unnoticed.” i
* See the case of Dundonald versus Roy, as lately reported at length
in the Scotch newspapers.
BIRDS. 335
We shall mention only two other Afr.can species of this
tribe, viz. the damask parrct (P. infuscatus), of which an
interesting account is given by Le Vaillant, and the Guinea
parrct (P. pullarius), apparently figured on the 40th plate
of the second volume of Seba’s Thesaurus.
That division of the Linnean genus Bucco now called
Pogonias, is peculiar to Africa. It contains about six spe-
cies, of which the manners are little known. That called
the Abyssinian barbican by Latham, was observed to cling
to the branches of trees like a woodpecker.
Of the Trogons, an extensive tribe, of brilliant plumage
but ungracefui forms, the greater part are proper to Asia
and America. We are indebted to Le Vaillant for the
figure and description of an African species discovered by
him in the country of the Caffres, and called Narina, which,
it seems, in the Hottentot language signifies a flower. It
is the Trogon narina of systematic writers.
We come now to a limited tribe, entirely peculiar to
Africa,—the plantain-eaters, genus Musophaga. These
are large birds, elegantly shaped, and richly coloured.
The species are few in nuinber, and their history is still ob-
scure. Allied to the preceding are the Touracos, likewise
characteristic of the African continent. One of the most
beautiful was classed by Linneus with the cuckoos,—the
Cuculus persa of that great observer. Le Vaillant says that
there are great numbers of touracos in the country of the
Kottinquas,—that they are very difficult to shoot, as they
perch only on the summits of the tallest trees, and rarely
suffer any one to come within gunshot,—but that they are
easily caught alive by snares, baited with such fruits as are in
season. He adds that they are excellent eating. Another
species of this genus which it is delightful to look upon,
is the Pauline touraco, Corythaix Paulina. It inhabits
Southern Africa. M. Vieillot had one alive, and he informs
us that its manners were mild and familiar: it lived on
succulent fruits, and was fond of sugar; its habits were
active, and its voice sonorous and apparently ventriloqual.
The different tribes and genera belonging to the great
order of gallinaceous birds are the next to claim our regard.
The sympathies of such of our readers (if such there be) as
are regardless of that beauty of form and splendour of
336 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
colour to which we have already so often attracted their
attention, would probably yield more readily to certain cu-
linary associations connected with poultry, turkeys, phea-
sants, grouse, &c.; all of which, and many more equally
dear to the late Dr. Kitchener, belong to the present exten-
sive division of our subject. It happens, however, that
cocks and hens are of eastern origin, that turkeys are native
only to America,—that pheasants come from the banks of
the Phasis,—and that grouse are peculiar to northern
countries. We must therefore, in the mean time, be con-
tented with a few pigeons. ,
The genus Columba is widely diffused over both the tem-
perate and tropical regions of the earth. Its species abound
in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America; and, even in the
forests of the far-distant islands of the Southern Ocean,
their radiant plumage
“ Fills many a damp obscure recess
With lustre of a saintly show.”
One of the most magnificent of the tribe is the hackled
pigeon (C. Francie). It is distinguished from all others
by the irregular form of the feathers on the head, neck, and
breast, which are long and narrow, and terminate in a
shining appendage resembling in consistence, though not
in colour, that with which the wing-feathers of the Bohe-
mian chatterer are furnished. The species inhabits Southern
Africa and the island of Madagascar. A still more singular
bird is the parabolic pigeon (C. arquatriz). It was dis-
covered by Le Vaillant, and is figured in his splendid
work on the birds of Africa. The flight of this species is
very remarkable. It never proceeds in a straight line, but
on commencing its route it describes a parabola, and con-
tinues forming a series of arcs during the whole time, fre-
quently uttering a peculiar cry. It inhabits the forests of -
Anteniquois, and is a great enemy to the white eagle.
The Guinea fowls, or pintados, are entirely peculiar to
Africa as native species, though they now breed freely as
domestic birds both in Europe and America. There are
three kinds of this bird known to naturalists, viz. the Guinea
pintado (Numida meleagris), common in our poultry-yards;
the mitred pintado (NV. mitrata); and the crested pintado
(N. cristata). ~ Lae
WIRDS. 837
Quails are remarkable for a certain compactness of form
and neatness of plumage, which, in the absence of brilliant
colouring, produces a highly pleasing effect. In regard to
the African species, we shall content ourselves with | haming
the Madagascar quail (Coturnix perlata), which is about
twice the size of our British visitant. It is also distin-
guished from the others by the strength of its beak.
Very few partridges, properly so called, occur in this
sandy continent. The Barbary partridge (Perdriz petrosa)
is abundant along the African shores of the Mediterranean.
It also occurs in Teneriffe, and along the western cvast as
far as Senegal. Of the genera Pterocles, Francolinus, and
Turnix, there are likewise representatives in this country.
Cranch’s Francolin (F. Cranchit) was discovered by the
indefatigable and unfortunate collector whose name it bears,
during the ill-fated expedition to explore the source of the
‘Congo under Captain Tuckey. It is described by Dr.
Leach in the appendix to the published narrative of that
disastrous voyage.
Of the African grouse, we may say, as Horrebow says, in
his brief chapter “On the Rats of Iceland,”—* There are
‘no rats in Iceland;” so neither are there any grouse in
Africa.
A few lines may now te devoted to a species v-1ich not
only forms the most remarkable character in the ornitho-
logy of Africa, to which country it is now believed to be
entirely peculiar, but presents in itself the most singular
example of the feathered race. This extraordinary bird is
the ostrich, the tallest of its class, and probably the swiftest
of all running creatures. It is distitiguished from every
other bird by having only two toes on each foot. It in-
habits the open and sandy plains of a great extent of
Africa, from Barbary to the Cape of Good Hope; and
being consequently native to one of the most anciently-
peopled countries of the earth, it has excited the attention
of mankind from the remotest periods of antiquity. It is
frequently mentioned in the Book of Job, and in other por-
tions of the Old Testament. Herodotus, among the early
Greek writers, was acquainted with its history and appear-
ance; and in after-times it was not only frequently ex-
" ibited by the Romans in thelr games, but the brains of
338 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
hundreds at a time were scooped out, and served up asa
choice delicacy on the luxurious table of Heliogabalus.
To exemplify the great strength and swiftness of this
gigantic biped, we shall transcribe the following circum-
stance, narrated by Adanson, as having taken place at
Podor, a French factory on the southern bank of the river
Niger :—‘* Two ostriches which had been about two years
in the factory, and, although young, were nearly of their
full size, were so toh that two little blacks mounted both
together on the back of the largest: no sooner did he feel
their weight, than he began to run as fast as possible, and
carried them several times round the village, as it was im-
possible to stop him otherwise than by obstructing the
passage. This sight pleased me so much that I ordered it
to be repeated; and, to try their strength, directed a full-
grown negro to mount the smallest, and two others the
largest. This burden did not seem at all disproportioned
to their strength. At first they went at a tclerably sharp
trot, but when they became heated a little, they expanded
their wings as though to catch the wind, and moved with
such fleetness that they scarcely seemed to touch the ground.
Most people have, one time or other, seen a partridge run,’
and consequently must know that there is no man whatever
able to keep up with it; and it is easy to imagine that if
this bird had alonger step, its speed would be considerably
augmented. ‘The ostrich moves like the partridge, with
this advantage; and I am satisfied that those I am speak-
ing of would have distanced the fleetest race-horses that
were ever bred in England: it is true they would not hold
out so long as a horse, but they would undoubtedly be able
‘to go over the space in less time. I have frequently beheld
this sight, which is capable of giving one an idea of the pro-
digious strength of an ostrich, and of showing what use it
might be of, had we but the method of breaking and ma-
naging it as we do a horse.”
Greatly inferior in size, but not very dissimilar in form,
are the bustard tribe, of which the most recently discovered
African species is designated Ots Denhami by Mr. Vigors,
in honour of the late intrepid and accomplished traveller “4
that name.
We now arrive at the Grallatores, or long-legged Lists,
BIRDS. ~ 339
commonly called waders, on account of the semi-aquatie
propensities by which so many of them are distinguished.
Of these the most gracefully formed are the demoiselles, or
lady-birds (Ardea pavonia and Ardea virgo, Linn.), both of
African origin. They are not unfrequently exhibited in
menageries under the name of crown-birds, or Balearic
cranes.
The flamingo tribe are remarkable for the length of their
legs. The species occasionally found in Europe (Pheni-
copterus ruber) is native to the warmer regions uf Asia and
Africa. The bird described under that name by Alexander
Wilson, in his American Ornithology, is a distinct species,
mentioned as such long ago by Molina, in his Natural His-
tory of Chili. It is alluded to by Thomas Campbell in his
Gertrude of Wyoming :—
“Then, where of Indian hills the daylight takes
His leave, how might you the flamingo see
Disporting like a meteor on the lakes.”
The lesser flamingo (P. minor of Vieillot and Temminck)
is a species discovered of late years as an inhabitant of
bby parts of Africa, from Senegal to the Cape of Good
ope. |
The gigantic stork (Ciconia argala) though well known
in Bengal, is likewise an African species. This bird is
sometimes upwards of six feet in height. It is very com-
mon in many of the interior parts of Africa, and is called
marabou in Senegal. According to Major Denham, it is
protected by the inhabitants on account of its services as a
scavenger. Its appetite is most voracious, and nothing
comes amiss to its omnivorous propensities. Smeathman
has given a long account of a tame bird of this species. It
regularly attended the hall at dinner-time, and placed itself
behind its master’s chair. It frequently helped itself to
what it liked best; and one day darted its enormous bill
into a boiled fowl, which it swallowed in an instant. It
used to fly about the whole country, and generally roosted
high among some silk-cotton trees. From this station, at
the distance of two or three miles, it could see when the
dinner was carried across the court, when it immediately
took wing, and flying with great swiftness, arrived in time
to enter the house with some of those who carried the dishes.
340 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
It sometimes remained in the room for half an hour after
dinner, turning its head alternately from side to side, with
an appearance of unusual gravity, as if listening to the
conversation. It one day swallowed acat. Is this the
Ardea dulna of Gmelin?
Let us here insert the name of the umber (Scopus um-
bretta, Linn.), an African species,—the only one of its
genus, of the manners of which we are still enineny 3 ig-
norant.
Of the snipe and woodcock kind several species inhabit
Africa. Of these we shall mention no more than the Cape
snipe (Rhynchia Africana of Lesson), which occurs speci-
fically the same, or at least apparently identical, in Bengal.
Of the sandpiper tribe (Peladna, Cuvier) a few occur along.
the African shores, and a new species of phalarope (Ph.
Fimbriatus) has been recently described by M. Temminck
as native to Senegal.
The genus Cursorius is found in all the quarters of the
globe, with the exception of America. The double-collared
courier (C. Bicinctws) inhabits the interior of Southern Af-
rica; Temminck’s courier (C. Temminckti, Swainson) is
found at Sierra Leone; and the violet-winged courier (C.
chalcopterus, ‘Temm.) comes from Senegal.
The plover family are numerous in almost all parts of.
the world. Africa possesses nearly a dozen species, of
which we shall mention merely the crowned plover (Chara-
drius coronatus), one of the largest of the genus, which oc-
curs at the Cape of Good Hope.
Of the Palmipedes, or web-footed water-fowl, we know
of no great number peculiar to Africa. These birds are of
wandering habits, and being possessed, in addition to their
great power of wing, of the faculty of resting on the water,
we can place no limits to the extent of their migratory ~
movements. They thus become more cosmopolite than
many of the other tribes, and are therefore less entitled to
our attention during an exposition of the peculiar and more
characteristic features of a particular continent.
The first of this order which we shall name is the Cape
penguin (Sphenscus Capensis). This bird is found on
several of the southern portions of our globe, especially at
the Cape and the Malouin Islands. It lives in immense
!
BIRDS. ! 341
numbers, congregated together in spots called rookeries by
our voyagers. The eggs are much esteemed.
The pelican (P. Onocrotalus, Linn.), common alike to
Asia and the eastern countries of Europe, 1 is also found in
Africa, where it has been observed both in Egypt and the
Cape of Good Hope.
Of the singular genus eae plotus or darter, Le Vaillant
made us acquainted with a species from Senegal and the
Cape. It was also found 1 in the interior of the country by
Major Denham. |
The elegant and long-winged terns or sea-swallows' may
be enumerated among the African tribes. The slender-
billed tern (Serna tenwirostris, Temm.) is found upon the
western coasts, and the white tern (S. candida, amg
inhabits the Cape of Good Hope.
The buoyant and pearly-plumaged gulls, though more
characteristic of the northern regions, are occasionally seen
along the African shores. We are not, however, acquainted
with any species peculiar to this continent.
The genus albatross (Diomedea) probably contains the
largest and longest winged of all the aquatic species. The
wandering albatross (D. exulans) is equal in size to a swan,
and its wings extend about ten feet. This bird is princi-
pally met with in the seas adjacent to the Cape of Good
Hope.
The Cape petrel (Procelliaria Capensis), as its title implies,
occurs also near the last-named locality. It is common in
the southern seas, but more especially in the vicinity of the
Cape, where it flies in immense flocks. It is extremely
voracious, and feeds on fish and the dead carcasses of whales.
When caught, it squirts a quantity of oil from its nostrils.
The spur-winged goose (Plectropterus Gambensis) is a
singular species inhabiting Gambia and other parts of Af-
rica. The anterior angles of its wings are armed with
sharp projecting spines.
The mountain goose (Anser montana) is a large species,
with the wing feathers, and those of the head, of a bright
shining reddish green. According to Latham, it inhabits
the Cape of Good Hope, where it keeps mostly on ~ hills,
_ and feeds on grass and herbs.
Among the larger of the web-footed tribes we sit not
omit to mention the sis i (Chenaloper Egypiiaca,
342 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
' +
Stephens), so remarkable for its strong attachment to its
young. It was worshipped by the ancient Egyptians, and
its sculptured figure is still recognisable among the hiero-
glyphical representations of the Theban temples. It also
occurs in the southern regions of Africa, and has not un-
frequently been imported into Britain to beautify the waters
‘of our pleasure-grounds ; but the love of liberty is deeply
implanted in this bird, and it is with difficulty that even the
young, born and bred in northern climates, are retained for
a continuance in a state of satisfied domestication.
The crimson-billed sheldrake (Tadorna erythrorhyncha)
inhabits the Cape of Good Hope; and a species of musk-
duck (Anas Nilotica of Gmelin) is found in Upper Egypt.
It is easily tamed, and lives on good terms with other poultry.
From the preceding summary, the student of ornithology
will be able to form a sufficiently correct idea of the pre-
vailing features which characterize this branch of science
in Africa ; and, by comparing the present sketch with those
which we purpose to exhibit of othercountries in the future
volumes of our series, he will likewise be enabled to esti-
mate the peculiarities by which the continent in question is
distinguished from all the other quarters of the globe,
CHAPTER XX. .
Natural History of the Reptiles, Fishes, Shells, Insects, ce.
of Africa.
INTERMEDIATE between the birds and fishes are the reptile’
race, divided by naturalists into four principal branches, the
Chelonian, the Saurian, the Ophidian, and the Batrachian
reptiles. Of all these, Africa, “ fruitful in monsters,” pro-
duces some remarkable examples. - ,
In regard to the geographical distribution of reptiles, the
first and most general observation is, that they augment
in number as we advance towards the equatorial regions.
While Sweden possesses scarcely a dozen lizards and.
REPTILES. 343
nakes, about three or four frogs and toads, and not a single
tortoise, the temperate parts of Europe produce about forty
snakes and lizards, and several of the tortoise tribe. As
soon as we gain the southern extremity of Spain, the num-
ber of species in these tribes greatly increases, and in An-
dalusia the African complexion of the country is still further
_ manifested by the appearance of the chameleon. On pro-
ceeding further south, not only does the number of reptiles
increase, but they also augment in size, till, from the Tro-
pic of Cancer onwards, and beyond the Line, we meet with
the crocodiles, caymans, boas, and other giants of the reptile
race. Forthe present, however, we must confine ourselves
to a brief allusion to a very limited number of the African
tribes.
Ist, Chelonian reptiles or tortoises and turtles. Several
of this division occur in Africa, such as the Testudo Graca,
the Testudo triunguis, &c. ban
2d, Saurian reptiles. 'To this division belong the croco-
diles and lizards, the geckos, chameleons, and many others.
The common crocodile (Lacerta crocodilus), celebrated in
the ancient history of Egypt, is spread over a considerable
extent of this continent.
“ Erewhile, emerging from the brooding sand,
With tiger paw he prints the brineless strand ,
High on the flood, with speckled bosom swims,
Helmed with broad tail, and oared with giant limbs ;
Rolls his fierce eyeballs, clasps his iron claws,
And champs with gnashing teeth his massy jaws.
Old Nilus sighs through all his cane-crowned shores,
And swarthy Memphis trembles and adores.”
There are several different kinds of crocodile in the old
and new world, and their tempers and dispositions seem to
vary in different localities. Humboldt and Mungo Park
regarded them with fear and trembling, while Audubon
and Mr. Waterton hold them in little consideration either
as friends or foes. Though seldom tamed, they are not by
any means incapable of domestication, as has been demon-
strated by many examples, both in ancient and modern
times.
Many lizards occur in Africa. We shall only mention
one found near Mourzouk. It is called aselis, and, if not a
' ‘eye lizard, resembles one in form. When alarmed, it
344 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
buries itself in the sand; and when dropped from a
height, it immediately sinks beneath the surface of the
spot on which it fell. ‘These little creatures,” says Cap-
tain Lyon, “are eagerly bought by the girls and married
women, for the purpose of ascertaining how many children
they shall have. By stretching them the skin will iinme-
diately crack, and the women most religiously believe that
for every sound they shall bear a child.”
One of the most remarkable families of the saurian tribe
is that which contains the chameleons. The common
species (Lacerta Africana) is found in Egypt, Barbary, and
the south of Spain. ‘The changes of colour in these ani-
mals, though by some deemed fabulous, are now beyond
dispute. The causes of these changes, however, and their
mode of action, may still be classed among the more ob-
~ scure points of natural history. They seem independent
of external objects, and vary within a certain range, almost
every hour. hint 7
“Non mihi tot cultus numero comprendere fas est*
Adjicit ornatus proxima quieque dies.”
3d, Ophidian reptiles, or serpents. Among the most re-
markable of the African species of this division, is the ce-
rastes, or horned viper. It is characterized by a small
curved horn over each eyelid. It lives in the sand, and
was well known to the ancients. Another singular ser-
pent is the haje (Coluber haje, Linneus). The Egyptian
jugglers, by pressing the neck of this creature between
their fingers, produce a kind of catalepsy which renders it
stiff and motionless. This is rather a curious fact when
considered in connexion with the scriptural narrative in the
seventh chapter of Exodus, where the rods of the magicians
when thrown down are converted into serpents.
This species was regarded by the ancient Egyptians as
the emblem of the protecting divinity of the world, and its
figure is frequently sculptured on each side of a globe, on
the outer gates of their temples. Ac
4th, The Batrachian reptiles, such as frogs, &e. Africa
produces comparatively few species of this division. The
soil is probabiy too dry. We shall here mention only
the short-headed toad (Rana breviceps) described by Line
( se
FISHES. 345
neus in the Amenitates Academica, vol. i. It is a very
small species, native to Senegal and some other parts of
Africa.
The great and almost inexhaustible class of fishes next
demands our attention. :
Our acquaintance with the laws which regulate the geo-
graphical distribution of this class is extremely meager: in
other words, the facts illustrating the greater or less ex-
tension of their localities are few, and have never been
properly generalized. [rom the immeasurable extent and
continuous nature of the fluid which they inhabit, they are
supplied by nature with greater facilities of dispersion than
most other animals; while the greater equality of the
temperature of water, when compared with that of either
earth or air, admits, in several instances, of the same spe-
cies inhabiting almost every latitude from pole to pole.
Those races especially, which, travelling together in vast
shoals, speedily consume the natural food which each par-
ticular spot affords, are obliged, like the pastoral tribes of
old, or the woodland hunters of America, to remove from
place to place in search of additional supplies, and thus the
species acquires a more widely extended geographical dis-
tribution. It is thus that the cod and herring are spread
over the whole extent of the Northern Ocean, and in undi-
minished numbers, notwithstanding the war of extermina-
tion which man and other voracious animals appear to
wage against them. Those species which lead a solitary
and, as it may be called, a stationary life are frequently
confined within very narrow limits. The Chetudons, for
example, which delight in rocky coasts covered with madre-
pores, attach themselves to the torrid zone, which produces
so abundantly those magnificent ornaments of the sea.
But though thus confined to particular spots, from which
the individuals of the species never wander, the species
itself may be said to be repeated again in different and
distant regions, separated from each other by almost in-
surmountable obstacles. Thus, many of what may be
termed stationary species are found identically the same
along the coasts of Brazil, in the Arabian Gulf, and over
the multiplied shores of Polynesia. It has hence been
concluded that such species, incapable of colonizing them-
346 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
selves by leaving their accustomed shores, and hazarding
a journey across unknown oceans, have either been create
in more places than one, or have been enabled to transport
themselves by means different from any of those which are
now available in the ordinary course of nature.*
If the natural means by which the more powerful species,
inhabiting the saline waters of the ocean, have spread
themselves from clime to clime, be in some measure within
the reach of our comprehension, it is otherwise with those
peculiar to rivers and the waters of inland Jakes. How
these have contrived to migrate from one region to another,
and to people with identical species the depths of far-re-
moved and solitary waters, separated from each other by
chains of lofty mountains, or wide-extended wastes of desert
sand, is a problem which, in the present state of our
knowledge, we seek in vain to solve. t
Of the genus Murena several species occur in 1 the African
seas. ‘The spotted murena (M. guttata) was observed by
Forskall in the Red Sea. A small species of goby, scarcely
exceeding an inch in length, is found in the Nile. It isthe
Gobius aphya of Lineus. We may here mention, that the
name aphya, by which this species has been distinguished,
seems to have been applied by the ancient writers to such
small fishes as they vaguely supposed to have been produced
rather from the foam of the ocean than according to the
usual process of nature.t Several species of bull-head
(Cottus) are described by Commerson, and the genus Scor
pena, so eccentric in its forms, is represented in the African
seas, among others, by the Cape scorpena (S. Capensis),
mentioned “by Gronovius. A magnificent fish, called the
opah dory (Zeus luna), inhabits the African shores. Dr.
Mortimer exhibited a fish of this kind to the Royal Society
in 1750, which was taken “‘ on the coast of Leith ;” and he
adds (in the Phil. Trans. for that year), that the Prince of
Anamaboe, being then in England, immediately recognised
it, and said it was common in hiscountry, and was excellent
eating.
* See Gaymard’s Mémoire sur la Distribution Géographique des
Poissons.
+ See further on this subject the 5th number of my Illustrations of
Zoology.
t ick Shaw's General Zoolog’s, vol. v.'p. 245
‘
FISHES, . 3847
_'The Remora, so remarkable for its faculty of adhering to
other fishes by a peculiar sucker-shaped organ on the top
of its head, is found in the Mediterranean and other saline
waters which wash the African shores. The olive-green
remora (Echeneis cavda rotundata of Bloch) is common on
the coasts of Mozambique. A species of Labrus (L. Nilo-
ticus) inhabits the Nile; and the star-eyed Bodian (Bod:-
anus stellifer) is native to the seas about the Cape. The
silvery mackarel (Scomber crumenophthalmus) is found in
considerable plenty about the coasts of Guinea, and the
Scomber chloris is also an African species. | 3
The surmullet (Mullus ruber) so famous as an epicurean
delicacy among the Romans, and so highly, though not very
humanely, admired for the splendour of its dying hues, is
found both along the African and European shores of the
Mediterranean. ‘‘ Vide,” says Seneca, ‘‘ quomodo exarserit
rubor omniacrior minio! vide quas per latera venas agat!
Ecce! sanguinem putes ventrem ! quam lucidum quiddam ce-
ruleumque sub ipsotempore effulsit! jam porrigitur et pallet,
et in unum colorem componitur!” The flying gurnard (T72-
gla volitans) may likewise be mentioned as a Mediterranean
“species of singular habits and great beauty. It swims in shoals
and delights the voyager by its short and frequent flights.
The electric silure (Sz/urws electricus) dwells in the rivers
of Africa. It was observed by Forskall in the Nile, by
whom, however, in his Fauna Arabica, it is improperly
named Raja torpedo. Another species of Silwrus called
platte-kop, or flat-head, occurs in the fresh waters of South-
ern Africa. Mr. Burchell observed two boys of the Bush-
men tribe fishing for this species. They stood by the wa-
ter-side, motionless as herons. After waiting patiently for
half an hour, a fish came within their reach, and was in-
stantly pierced through with their spears or assagays. It
was nearly three feet long, entirely of a lead colour, but ap-
proaching to white underneath. The head was very broad
and flat, the eyes pale yellow and extremely small, and the
mouth was bearded with several very long strmgs. The
flesh was white, rich, and nutritious. This fish seems to
occur only in those rivers which run to the western coast
(that is, to the northward of the Cape of Good Hope),
while, on the other hand, eels have never been seen in any
but those which fall into the ocean eastward of that cape.
/
348 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
Of the salmon genus, the Salmo fulvus, a fierce and hun-
gry fish, ismuch esteemed as an article of food by the inha-
bitants of Guinea. The notable genus Polypterus was first
scientifically distinguished by M. Geoffroy. Its shape is
long, cylindrical, and serpentiform; the head is defended
by large bony plates; and the body is covered by strong
scales, resembling those of a coat of mail. This fish is
called bichin by t the Egyptians, and is considered as very
rare. It is said to dwell in the soft mud of the Nile, and is
the finest flavoured of allthe Nilotie fishes; but as it is
hardly possible to open the skin with a knife, the fish is first
boiled, and the skin afterward drawn off almost entire. The
tooth-tongued argentine (A. Glossodonia) is a beautiful spe-
cies, native to the Red Sea; and the pearl-bladdered argen-
tine (A. Sphyrena) is a Mediterranean fish of the same ge-
nus. The air-bladder of this species is equally bright and
beautiful with its external parts, and along with these is
much used in the preparation of artificial pearls.
The flying-fish (Exocetus exiliens) is remarkable for the
eat length of its pectoral fins, which enable it to sustain
itself above the waves for several hundred yards. The
silvery polyneme (P. Niloticus) is a very elegant fish, of
eat excellence as an article of food. Its mode of capture
in the Nile is described by Bruce. The ten-fingered poly-
neme (P. decadactylus), likewise esteemed a very wholesome
and agreeable fish, occurs along the coasts of Guinea, and
occasionally enters the rivers of that country. Of fishes
allied to the herring, Africa produces several species. The
Clupea Africana is said to be extremely plentiful during the
summer months in the last-named district ; and the dorab
herring (C. dorab) is described by Forskall as native to the
Red Sea. Among the carp tribe we shall merely mention
the Cyprinus gonorhynchus, mentioned by Gronovius as an
inhabitant of the Cape seas. We may observe in passing,
that a great variety of fish are caught in the salt waters
ore environ the Cape ; but fresh fish are there so rare,
Mr. Burchell “does not recollect having seen any at
table except eels, and these were regarded as a curiosity.”*
_ genus Mormyrus seems almost entirely peculiar to the
ile.
Of f the cartilaginous fishes, several species of ray inbebit
* Travels, vol. i. p.79.
FISH. 349
the African seas. For example, the Raja guttcta was seen
by Commerson along the coasts of Madagascar, and the
lymna and pearled rays (R. lymna and sephen) both occur
in the Red Sea. It is from the skin of the last-named
species that the beautiful substance called Galluchat by the
French is prepared. It is tinted with blue, green, or red,
according to the taste of the artist, and being afterward
polished, is used in the manufacture of different kinds of
cases, telescope-tubes, &c. The younger specimens, ac-
cording to La Cépéde, are preferred,—the tubercular coat
of the full-grown individuals being rather too rough for the
desired purpose. Several species of shark inhabit the Af-
rican seas. ‘They are disagreeable to bathers.
The extraordinary genus Ostracion, or trunk-fish, distin-
ished by the peculiar bony crust or covering in which it
is enveloped, is widely distributed over the Indian and Ame-
rican oceans. Of the African species we may name the
tuberculated trunk-fish (C. twherculatus), by some regarded
as a mere variety of Ostracion triqueter, a kind much
esteemed for the uses of the table inthe East Indies. The
not less remarkable tribe included in the genus Tetrodon
are represented in Africa by the lineated species (T. line-
atus) which sometimes occurs in the Nile, where Hasselquist
was assured by the fishermen, that on seizing this fish
in the water their hands were frequently stung as if by
nettles. —
- The last genus to which we shall allude is that called
Syngnathus, or pipe-fish. Some of these are found in the
northern seas, others in the equatorial; while the most
remarkable of all is the foliated pipe-fish (Hippocampus fo-
hatus, Cuvier), which has hitherto occurred only along the
shores of New-Holland and Van Dieman’s Land. The
ae pipe-fish (S. pelagicus) is found in the African seas.
e shall close our ichthyological department by two
short extracts. ‘I was present,” says M. Adanson, “ata
very extraordinary capture of fish, made the same month
(March, 1750) on the coast of Ben, within a league of
island Goree, by the company belonging to one of the East
India ships, which had anchored in the road. They haa
only a net of about sixty fathoms, which they threw at a
venture into the sea; for they were not so lucky as to espy
any of those shoals of fishes: yet they had such surprising
Gg
350 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
success, that the shore was covered the whole length of the
net with the fish they caught, though the net was in a bad
condition. I reckoned part of them, and judged that they
might in all be upwards of 6000, the least of them as large’
as afine carp. There you might see pilchards, rock-fish,
mullets, or gull-fish, of different sorts; molebats, with other
fishes very little known. The negroes of the neighbouring
village took each their load, and the ship’s crew filled their
boat until it was ready to sink, leaving the rest on the sea-
shore. In any other country, such a capture of fish would,
without all doubt, pass for a miracle.”*
The fossil fish of Africa are scarcely known. The fol-
lowing passage, in illustration of that curious branch, is
from Lichtenstein’s Travels -—“In the slate-stone from
which the spring rose were the impressions of an innume-
rable multitude of fishes. We perceived this extraordinary
appearance first upon the surface ; but the impressiuns were
larger, more distinct, and finer in proportion as we broke
deeper and deeper into the stone. The form of the fish
resembled that of the eel, and the length of the largest was.
about three feet. The brittleness of the slate made it im-
possible for us to get out a single specimen eutire ; and the
fragments which we preserved, for the purpose of examin-
ing them at our leisure, were afterward destroyed by the
jolting of the wagon. The more I made myself acquainted
with this country by my subsequent travels, the more re-
markable did the phenomena appear to me, as being the
only remains of a former world which I found throughout
the whole of Southern Africa.”+ We must now proceed to
the next division of our subject. .
The Mollusca and Conchifera of Africa next demand our
attention. To these extensive classes belong whatever
species are known under the general names of shellfish
and shells. The precise localities of African conchology
are, in truth, so superficially ascertained that, even if
the portion of our present volume originally allotted to
the zoological department had not been already much more
than exhausted, we should have found great difficulty in
* Voyage to Senegal, p. 178.
t Travels in Southern Africa, vol. i. p. 9. i ae
. SHELLS. 351
satisfying either ourselves or our readers. In the absence,
however, of fuller and more circumstantial information, we
must rest contented with the following brief details :—
The shells of the warmer regions of the earth, as well as
the birds and insects, are generally distinguished from those
of colder countries by the greater beanty of their forms and
colouring ; and those of Africa, while they pers in
this splendid character, are yet more highly valued in con-
sequence of their comparatively rare occurrence in collec-
tions. ‘The productions of the African seas are probably
less known than those of any other quarter of the globe.
The Mediterranean affords very numerous species, al-
though the very slight changes of level which its waters
undergo render its testaceous productions less easily, ob-
tained than in more northern latitudes, J
Where the redundant seas wash up fresh stores.”
A few of the more remarkable animals of these classes
which occur in the Mediterranean are,—several kinds of
cuttle-fish, such as Sepia officinalis, Loligo vulgaris, and L.
sepiola; Argonauta Argo, Janihina commums, Isocardium
globosum, Cardia sulcata, and ajar; Spondylus gederopus,
Avicula tarentina, Cardium costatum, Anatina globosa, Pholas
dactylus, and several Pinne. ‘The Tyrian purple of the
ancients is supposed to have been obtained from the Purpura
patula, common in this sea. The use of that splendid
and regal die is now superseded by the discovery of the
tinctorial uses of the cochineal,—a small and obscure insect,
which the skill of the chemist has rendered indispensable
even to the garments of kings.
Egypt and the Valley of the Nile were first correctly ob-
served by the skilful Savigny and the other naturalists of the
great French expedition ; afterward by Olivier, and at a
still later period by Cailliaud. A few species mentioned by
Poiret, those described by Chemnitz, and the collection
made. by the Danish naturalist Grove from Morocco,
form the chief materials of our knowledge of this de-
partment along the Barbary coasts. The Red Sea, so
full of shoals and coral reefs, is said to be peculiarly rich in
shells ; but with the exception of the work of Forskall, and
the more recent travels of Lord Valentia, we can scarcely
f
352 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
indicate any proper sources of information regarding that
quarter.
The eastern shores of Africa are, in respect to this, as
well as all other branches of natural — almost entirely
unknown.
With the species of the western coasts we are somewhat
better acquainted. Adanson described many of the shells
of Senegal, and Bowdich a few from the Gambia. Maugé,
Von Buch, and Bowdich made small collections from Ma-
deira, Teneriffe, and Porto Santo. Those islands are said
to be rich in peculiar species, and therefore merit more
particular attention than has yet been bestowed upon them.
Along the western coasts numerous species also occur which
‘are common to the tropical seas ; such as Cypraa Tigris,
moneta, and helvola,—several Olives, Cones, and Volutes,
the pearl-oyster, Meleagrina margaritifera, &ce.
Of the land and fresh-water shells of the interior of this
continent scarcely any thing is known. Le Vaillant de-
scribed only a single species from Caffraria, though Dela-
lande afterward collected many in that country; and
Bruce and Burchell have incidentally noticed a few from
Abyssinia and the more southern districts. .
At the Cape of Good Hope the quantities of shells whieh
‘cover the beaches are immense, and the natives frequently
employ them for lime. But the heavy surf which so often
thunders along the shores of this promontory (the Cape of
Storms) seems to prevent the shells from being frequently
gathered in a perfect state; and South African specimens
are therefore more rare in collections than might be expected.
The coasts of Madagascar are said to be particularly rich
in fine shells, although we have acquired as yet but a very
meager knowledge of the testaceous productions of that
great island. If its climate and political circumstances |
admitted of a closer and more assiduous search, treasures
of great value would no doubt reward the toils of the oe
chological collector.
The northern and western coasts, though copnresell by
so wide an extent of barren sands, offer in this department
a few remarkable analogies. The Anadonta rubens of the
Nile is found specifically the same in Senegal, and the
Helix flammata of Nubia has been observed along
of the Gambia. Among the African shells, a few occur —
s
INSECTS. 353
extensively distributed over other countries. The Bulla
striata is found in Egypt and Senegal, along the coasts of
France and England, in the Antilles, and South America.
The Turbo pecreus, well known in Europe, is equally fami-
liar to the sun-burnt collector at the Cape. The Helix as-
ersa, so aburdant in all the temperate countries of Europe,
- also been found in Africa, and as far west as the Canary
Islands. Another species, the Helix candidissima, frequent
in France and Spain, has been found in Tripoli and other
parts of the African continent. The Helix agira of Egypt
and Barbary is found in Provence, though not in Italy;
while the Helix lactea of Spain and Algiers is unknown in
_ Provence, yet extends northward as far as Rousillon.
Of other African shells we shall mention merely the
Cassis Madagascariensis, Patella granacina and testudinaria,
Conus ammira.is,—a species highly prized by collectors,”
Voluta armata, Haliotis striata, and Oliva erythrostoma.
The fossil shells of an extremely limited portion of Africa
are partially exhibited in the great French work on Egypt; and
those of Mount Barkal have been iliustrated by M. Cailliaud.
Our knowledge of the geographical distribution of Insects,
notwithstanding the more careful study of the subject which
has prevailed of late years, may be said to be still in its
infancy. Latreille’s little work, however imperfect, is the
most complete with which we have as yet been furnished.*
It. is easy to suppose that if certain plants are peculiar to
certain climates, so also insects, the greater proportion of
which not only feed on plants, but are each according to
its kind almost restricted to particular species, must in
like manner be characteristic of special localities. The en-
tomological characters of the southern shores of Europe
strongly exhibit their geographical approach to the African _
continent. The Ateuchus sacer, various specics of Scaurus
and Akis, the European scorpion, several Cigale, Ternutes,
and others, may be regarded, in the southern countries of
Europe, as the avant-courriers of those more exclusively
* “Tntroduction 4 la Geographie Générale des Arachnides et des In-
sectes, ou des Climats propres aces Animaux.” This memoir was read
to the Academy of Sciences in 1815, and forms part of the third volume
of the Mémoires du Mus¢um d’Histoire Naturelle.” It was republished
in a separate volume by the same author, entitled “ Memoires sur divers
Sujets de |’'Histoire Naturelle ce &. Paris, 181%
g2
354 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
African forms which have their centre of dominion in the
burning deserts. Along the Mediterranean shores, the _
traveller may study the habits of many curious imsects be-
longing to the genera Mygale, Onitis, Cebrio, Pimelia,
Brachycerus, Brentus, and Scarytes, and may also enrich his
collection by the capture of many beautiful butterflies, and
other lepidopterous insects, which are more truly charac-
teristic of Northern Africa. Spain especially exhibits many
features of African zoology. The European entomologist
there finds, for the first time, several species of the following
genera :—Erodius, Sepidium, Zygia, Hemopiera, Galeodes,
Brachinus,and Pimelia. But it is only after crossing the Me-
diterranean, and traversing the African shores, whether north
of the Atlas, or eastward towards the coasts of the Red Sea,
that our eyes are delighted with the hitherto unknown forms
of Anthia, Graphipterus, Siagona, and numerous other spe-
cies unknown to the colder and moister shores of Europe.
But no sooner do we leave the Mediterranean coasts of
Africa, and enter upon the more weary and disastrous pilgrim-
age of the great deserts, the apparently limitless expanse
of which so soon greets the eye of the yet undaunted tra-
veller, than almost all vestiges of European life, whether
human or brute, disappear ; and Nubia, Ethiopia, Senegal,
and a great part of Guinea exhibit entomological forms,
cognate in character when compared among themselves, but
separated, in every sense of the words, “longo intervallo,”
from those of Europe. As we proceed further southwards,
where the chariot of the ‘“‘ Great Apollo” rolls on with a ~
still fiercer and more fiery lustre, and the beams of a verti-
cal sun induce even the tawny Moor and the woolly-headed
negro to avoid his scorching and sometimes fatal rays, we
discover many extraordinary forms of insect life, called into
existence through the instrumentality of that bright efful-
gence which the pale-faced European has so often sought — .
to withstand in vain. From the burning regions of Guinea,
and the parched shores of the Congo, we derive the finest
of those magnificent coleopterous insects, named a pos fl
Goliathus, by Lamarck. ‘The western and equinoctial parts
of Africa also yield us the species of Petalocheirus and E:
celadus ; while the Cape of Good Hope is remarkak
the genus Anthia and Brachycerus. The last named district
is almost the exclusive domain of Mesto teeanaane
. INSECTS. | 355
and the southern parts of Africa in general present us with
Sagra, Diopsis, and Paussus, although it may be observed
that some of these also occur in the East Indies. The last-
- named genus is remarkable for the very peculiar form of the
antenne. The genus does not exist in the twelfth’ edition
of the Systema Nature, but was published by Linnezus in
a separate dissertation in 1775. Only a single species was
known at that period, and another was added in 1796, by
_ Dr. Adam Afzelius, then residing at Sierra Leone.* The
etymology of the name is supposed by Afzelius to be from
the Greek ravas, signifying a pause, cessation, or rest ; for
Linneus, now old and infirm, and sinking under the weight
of age and labour, saw no probability of continuing any
longer his career of glory. ‘He might, therefore,” adds
Dr. Shaw, ‘be supposed to say ‘hic meta laborum,’ as it in
reality proved, at least with regard to insects,—pausus being
the last he ever described.”+ It was literally, in the lan-
guage of Young,—
“ An awful pause prophetic of his end!”
Both Madagascar and St. Helena present a few insects
which to a certain extent demonstrate the African com-
plexion of those islands; but the latter especially is also
allied by its entomological features to some of the south-
western countries of Asia. According to Latreille, Africa
furnishes no species of the genus Passalus, although it is
elsewhere widely distributed over America and the East
Indies. The genera Graphyptera, Eurichora, and Pneumora
are probably peculiar to Africa.
Among the hemipterous insects of Africa we may men-
tion the Mantis precaria, an object of superstitious venera-
tion among the Hottentots, who hold in the highest respect
the person on whom the insect happens to alight.
“T here became acquainted,” says Mr. Burchell, in his
Travels in the Interior of Southern Africa, “with a new
species of Mantis, whose presence became afterward suffi-
ciently familiar to me, by its never failing, on calm warm
evenings, to pay me a visit as I was writing my journal,
and sometimes to interrupt my lucubrations by putting out
* Linn. Trans., vol. iv. + General Zoology, vol. vi. p 43
356 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA,
the lamp. All the mantis tribe are very remarkable insects 3
and this one, whose dusky sober colouring well suits the
obscurity of night, is certainly so by the late. hours it keeps. -
It often settled on my book, or on the press where I was
writing, and remained still, as if considering some affair of
importance, with an appearance of intelligence which had
a wonderful effect in withholding my hand from doing it
harm. Although hundreds have flown within my power, I
never took more than five. I have given to this curious
little creature the name of Mantis lucuhbrans; and having
no doubt that he will introduce himself to every traveller
who comes into this country in the months of November
and December, I beg to recommend him as a harmless little
companion, and entreat that kindy? and mercy may be
shown to him.’’*
Locusts are of common occurrence in many parts of
Africa. Mr. Barrow records, that in the southern districts
which he visited, the surface of an area of nearly 2000
square miles might literally be said to be covered by them. —
The water of a wide river was scarcely visible in conse-
quence of the innumerable dead locusts that floated on its
surface, apparently drowned in their attempts to reach the
reeds which grew along its shores. Except these much-
wished-for reeds, they had devoured every other green thing, —
Their destruction on a former occasion was sudden and
singular. All the full-grown insects were driven into the
sea by a tempestuous north-west wind, and were afterward
cast upon the beach, where they formed a bank three or
four feet high, and extending nearly fifty English miles.
The smell, as may easily be supposed, was abominable,
and was sensibly felt at a distance of 150 miles.
The migratory flight of the locust, and its desolating
effects upon vegetation, and consequent injury both to man
and beast, have afforded a frequent exercise to the pen of
the poet; but by none have their injurious inroads been so
magnificently treated as by the Prophet Joel. ‘A day of.
darkness and of gloominess, a day of clouds and of thick
darkness, as the morning spread upon the mountains ; a
great people and a strong: there hath not been ever
like, neither shall be any more after it, even to a paamg]
* Burchell’s Travels, vol.i. p.418
;
INSECTS. ~ 357
many generations. A fire devoureth before them, and be-
hind them a flame burneth: the land is as the Garden of
Eden before them, and behind them a desolate wilderness ;
yea, and nothing shall escape them. The appearance of
them is as the appearance of horses; and as horsemen, so
shall they run. Like the noise of chariots on the tops’ of
mountains shall they leap, like the noise of a flame of fire
that devoureth the stubble, as a strong people set in battle-
array.” ‘The earth shall quake before them ; the heavens
shall tremble: the sun and moon shall be dark, and the
stars shall withdraw their shining.” “How do the beasts
groan ! the herds of cattle are perplexed, because they have
‘no pasture; yea, the flocks of sheep are made desolate.”
One of the most formidable of the insect tribes of this
continent is the Termes bellicosus, or white ant. 'This spe-
cies dwells in congregated troops, consisting of labourers,
soldiers, and sovereigns. ‘They build conical nests of mud
_ and clay, from 10 to 12 feet high, and divided in the interi--
by thin partitions into a variety of cells. These nests arm
often very numerous, and appear like villages from a dis-
tance. Jobson, in his History of Guinea, alieges that they
are often 20 feet high, and he states that he found them
extremely serviceable in screening himself and his com-
panions while engaged in the pursuit of antelopes and other
wild game. ‘The queen-mother of this species becomes in
the pregnant state of so enormous a size, that her abdomen
exceeds by two thousand times the bulk of the rest of her
body. When the ova are fully formed, they are obtruded
at the rate of 60 in a minute, or upwards of 80,000 in 24
hours. )
Of the butterfly tribe, of course, many beautiful species
inhabit this far-spread continent ; but as little is known of
their habits and history, and we would seek in vain to ex-
_ press by words the splendid colours, the elegant and varied
forms, and the exquisite pencilling by which they are
adorned, we shall not here enumerate’ any of the African
species ;
. . “Nameless in dark oblivion they must dwell,”
except in the minds of those who have studied their gorgeous
hues in the illumined pages of natural history, or in those far
358 NATURAL HISTORY OF AFRICA.
more brilliant pages of the book of nature’s self, where the
most successful effort of art is transcended by a fechle
insect’s wing ;—for the imagination of the poet and the ©
painter cannot boast
’ ‘‘ Amid their gay creation hues like these,”
Several species of bee inhabit Africa. The banded bee
(Apis fasciata) is an object of domestic cultivation ; and in
some parts of the country a particularly delicious. honey i is
derived from the labours of this industrious insect. Wax
is an object of considerable consequence in the commerce
of Africa.
Scorpions and centipedes of enormous size and most for-
bidding aspect lurk beneath the stones, or glide with nu-
merous feet over the sterile soil; and the poison of these
creatures seems to exist in a stronger and more deadly state
of concentration than in colder climes. Children frequently
die from the bite of the scorpion in less than three days,
In regard to the smaller domestic nuisances of the entomo-
logical class, we have few data from which to form an opi
nion. We doubt not that dirt and indolence produce here
as elsewhere their disgusting concomitants. Captain Lyon,
however, observed, that although bugs were numerous, —
there were no fleas i in Fezzan.
We come now to the last class of the scala kingdom,
called Zoophytes. ‘These, Professor Jameson has else-
where remarked, ‘although the lowest in the scale of ani-
mated beings, are yet highly interesting in the sublime
plan of creation. Their numbers exceed all calculation, —
the minuteness of many species.is such that they are not
to be discriminated by the aid of our most powerful micro-
scopes,—they form one extremity of the zoological scale of
magnitude, of which the other is occupied by the gigantic
whale of the Polar Regions. The coral-reefs, rocks, and —
islands of the tropical seas are formed by very minute Z0Q-
phytes. These reefs, in some regions of the arin: '
been traced for a thousand miles in length, for
miles in breadth, and to depths sometimes unfath
yet they are the work of the most minute ar its
the creation, We find, too, whole beds of rocks,
ZOOPHYTES. 35%
tire hills, of very old formation, extending for hundreds of
miles, characterized by the corals they contain, thus proving
that these animals also existed in countless numbers in a
former condition of our earth, and that then as at present,
they assisted materially in adding to the solid matter of the
globe. Zoophytes, from the simplicity of their structure,
and the geognostic relations of the rocks in which they are
occasionally found, appear to have been called into exist-
ence before the other classes of animals.”*
The red coral (Corallium rubrum), of which are formed
so many beautiful ornaments of female dress, and the value
of which as an articie of commerce is consequently great,
occurs abundantly along the coasts of Tunis and the shores
of the Réd Sea. Itis of comparatively slow growth, and
is never found in such splendid masses as the madres
pores. Light effects a powerful influence on its growth.
‘‘Thus, at a depth of from three to ten fathoms, it grows
one foot in eight years; at the depth of from ten to fifteen
fathoms, the same length in ten years; at the depth of one
hundred fathoms, same length iti twenty-five or thirty years ;
and at the depth of one hundred and fifty fathoms, the same
length in forty years. It is also remarked, that in general
the colour is deeper and richer in shallow than in very deep
water. The coral of Barbary is not reckoned so fine as
that of Italy or France.’’+
The common sponge (Spongia officinalis) forms also an
article of traffic alorig some of the African shores.
We shall conclude our sketch of African zoology by a
brief notice of a dangerous and disgusting animal (Filaria
medinensis), commonly called the Guinea worm. This
gigantic parasite coritrives, in a way best know to itself, to
enter beneath the skin of the human race, especially that
of the legs, where it will remain for several years, attaining
in the mean time to the enormous length of ten feet, and to
‘the thickness of a pigeon’s quill. According to the place and
manner of its abode, it occasions pains more or less severe;
and in the more unfortunate and disastrous instances, its
continued presence is followed by convulsions and death.
* Murray’s Historical Account of Discoveries and Travels in Africa,
vol. ii. p. 471. } Ibid, p. 473.
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