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NARRATIVE

OF

AN EXPEDITION

INTO THE

INTERIOR OF AFRICA,

BY THE RIVER NIGER,

IN THE STEAM-VESSELS QUORRA AND ALBURKAH,
IN 1832, 1833, AND 1834.

BY

MACGREGOR LAIRD AND R. A. K. OLDFIELD,

SURVIVING OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,

^ui)li;S]^tr tn (©rbinarg to ^er PlajeiStg.

1837.

LONDON :

PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,

Dorset Street, Fleet Street.

TO THE

MERCHANTS AND PHILANTHROPISTS
OF GREAT BRITAIN,

In the hope that the attempt recorded in these
Volumes, to establish a Commercial Intercourse
with Central Africa, via the River Niger, may
open new fields of enterprise to the Mercantile
world, and of usefulness to those who labour
for the amelioration of uncivilized man, the
following Narratives are respectfully inscribed
by

The Authors.

PREFACE.

The following pages detail an attempt to
open a direct commercial intercourse with the
inhabitants of Central Africa. It is well known
that the attempt ended in a complete failure
to make that intercourse a profitable one, and
was attended with a melancholy loss of life. As
far as proving the navigability of the Niger, and
the ease and facility with which that mighty
stream may be used for the purposes of com-
merce, it was successful in no ordinary degree,
considering the novelty of the undertaking, the
complicated nature of a steam-vessel, and the
excessive mortality of the crews.

I also hope that it has in some measure dis-
pelled the mystery which has so long enveloped

Vi PREFACE.

the interior of that interesting country, and that
it has proved that any man with common sense
and common ability may ascend and descend
the main artery of Africa (provided he escapes
the effects of the climate) with perfect safety, in
moderate sized vessels, from the sea to Boussa.

That my successors in the same field may
avoid the errors that were committed, and profit
by the experience acquired, is the principal rea-
son why these Narratives are published.

The parties who, I hope, may, and trust will
be principally interested, are those who look
upon the opening of Central Africa to the enter-
prise and capital of British merchants as likely
to create new and extensive markets for our
manufactured goods, and fresh sources whence
to draw our supplies ; and those who, viewing
mankind as one great family, consider it their
duty to raise their fellow-creatures from their
present degraded, denationalised, and demoral-
ised state, nearer to Him in whose image they
were created.

PREFACE. Vll

As I consider the happiness of my fellow-crea-
tures ought to be the great end of all enterprise,
and as the misery I witnessed made a great im-
pression on my mind, I shall offer no apology for
having, in the concluding chapter, stated freely
and unreservedly my opinions and sentiments
regarding Africa ! — perhaps their chief value
consists in their having been formed upon the
spot.

If the publication of these Narratives advances
the cause of African civilisation in the slightest
degree, I shall consider the money, the time, and
the life that has been lost, as in some degree
compensated.

Mr. Oldfield having returned to the coast of
Africa, his Journal has not had the advantage of
his supervision while passing through the press.

MACGREGOR LAIRD.
London, \st June, 1837.

CONTENTS

OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Reasons for the Expedition. — The Company formed. — Mr.
Lander's Services engaged. — The Quorra and Alburkah
Steam-vessels and the Columbine Brig fitted and pro-
vided with Goods for the Country. — Plan of proceeding. —
The Expedition joined by Lieutenant Allen and Mr. Jordan.
— Departure from Liverpool. — Stop at Milford. — Engineers
of Steam-vessels considered. — Final Departure from Milford.
— Remarks on the Fitting of Steam-vessels for Steaming and
Sailing. — Madeira seen. — Anchor at Port Praya. . Page 1

CHAPTER H.

Famine at Cape Verd Islands. — Want of Rain. — Natives
of Port Praya. — American Schooner and Cargo. — Leave Port
Praya. — Touch at Isles de Los. — Inhabitants. — Depart from
the Islands. — Voyage to York. — Reception at York. — Lieu-
tenant Allen and Mr. Lander taken ill. — Proceed to Free
Town. — Kroomen engaged. — Remarks on Kroomen and Fish-
men. — ^Their Characters compared with that of the Negro.

X CONTENTS.

— Anchor off Monrovia. — Strictures on the Settlement. —
Visit Simon River.— Cape Palmas. — The Dutch Governor of
Axim. — Arrive at Cape Coast. — Remarks on that Settle-
ment. Page 20

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Cape Coast. — Captain Harries and an
Engineer taken ill. — Description of a Tornado. — Anchor off
the Nun. — Death of Captain Harries and the Second En-
gineer.— ^Tribute to the Memory of the former. — The Vessels
enter the River. — Dangers of the Bar. — Preparations
for proceeding up the River. — Anchor off King Boy's Bar-
racoon. — Effects of Climate. — Remarks on the Natives. —
Continue up the River. — Anchor off Inghirami. — News of
Hostilities. — Coolness of a Native Pilot. — A Village burnt.
— The Warree Branch. — Anchor off Eggabo. — Boy and his
Wives. — Arrival at Eboe. 55

CHAPTER IV.

Visit to King Obie. — The Palaver. — The Visit returned. — A
Female of Eboe. — Description of Obie — The Town of Eboe
described — Its Produce. — The Delta of the Niger — Its In-
habitants and their Occupations. — Oil-making and Slave-
hunting compared. ....... 94

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Eboe. — The Quorra aground. — Mr. Jordan
taken ill. — The Quorra's Crew attacked with Fever. — Pro-
ceed to Damuggoo. — Awful Mortality on board the Quorra.
— Arrive at Attah. — Reflections on the Mortality. — Situa-
tion of Attah — Its advantages. — Natives' Method of killing
the Alligator — Depart from Attah. — Messenger from the

CONTENTS. XI

King. — Difficulties of the Navigation. — Proceed to Bocqna.
— The Kong Mountains. — River Scenery. — The Quorra
aground. ...... Page 111

CHAPTER VI.

Sickness in the Alburkah. — Disappointment in the Naviga-
tion.— More Sickness in the Quorra.— Prepare for the Rainy
Season. — Another Messenger from Attah. — Attah Canoes. —
Attempt of Mr. Lander to proceed to Boussa. — A Thief
caught. — Visit to Addakudda. — Description of the River
above Eboe, — Superior Character of the Natives. — Manu-
factures and Trade. . . . . . .141

CHAPTER VII.

Amusement on board. — Reflections on the State of the
Inhabitants. — Native Canoes. — Mr. Lander unsuccessfuh---
Change in the Season. — Further Sickness. — Death of Dr.
Briggs. — Tribute to his Memory. — Departure for Fundah,
the Quorra left aground. — Arrival at Yimmahah. — Reports
of the King of Fundah. — Friendly Mallam. — Mode of
thatching Huts. — The Native Barber. . . . 171

CHAPTER VIII.

Messengers from the King of Fundah. — Embark in a Ca-
noe for that City. — Difficulties of the Passage. — Arrive at
Potingah, and pass on to Fundah. — Native Curiosity. —
Visit from the King. — The Visit returned. — Inconvenient
Lodgings. — The Court of Fundah and its Inmates. — Sarsfield
sent to Yimmahah. — The Barber Physician and his Wife. —
An Amateur Beau. . . . . . .192

XU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Approach of the Rainy Season. — Return of SarsHeld. —
Pretext for Departure. — Credulity and Terror of the King. —
Preparations for leaving Fundah. — Description of the City
— Its Population, &c. — Character of the King. — Amuse-
ments of Fundah — Its Manufactures. — The River Shary —
Opinion respecting its Source. . . . Page 214

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Fundah. — Arrive at Yimmahah. — Return
on board the Quorra. — Determination to return down the Ri-
ver to Fernando Po. — Description of Adassah and its King

Sarsfield and Lieutenant Allen proceed to Fundah. — Ravages
of the Felatahs. — Mortality among our Kroomen. — Hector's
Narrative of his Visit to Fundah. — Insubordination among
the Kroomen. — Anchor off Bocqua. — Joined by Mr. Old-
field from the Columbine. — Letters from Europe. — Ac-
count of Mortality in the Columbine. . . . 235

CHAPTER XI.

Arrive at Attah. — Another Krooman dies. — Departure of
the Alburkah, with Mr. Oldfield and Mr. Lander, for Boussa.
— Anchor off Eboe. — Interview with the King concerning the
Trade. — Punishment of two Native Delinquents. — Arrive at
the Mouth of the River, and proceed to Fernando Po. — De-
termine on returning to Liverpool. — Trip to Calebar. — Duke
Ephraim. — Government House at Clarence. — The Spanish
Slaver. — A Visit to Bimbia and Cameroons. — The Bimbia
Pilot. — Peter the Slave. — A Boat Race. — Technical Terms
and Native Taste. — Return to Fernando Po. . . 266

CONTENTS. Xlll

CHAPTER XII.

Proceed to Calebar. — The French Captain. — Barbarous
Practices on the Death of a Chief. — Native Wrestlers. — Re-
turn to Fernando Po. — A Slaver captured. — Fernando Po. —
Its advantageous Situation and Climate considered — Natives
and their Habits. — Voyage to Liverpool. — Arrival. Page 292

MR. OLDFIELD'S JOURNAL.

CHAPTER I.

Commencement of Sickness in the Vessels of the Expedi-
tion.— Symptoms of the Fever. — The Boatswain and Com-
mander of the Quorra die. — Remain in the Columbine. —
Departure of the Steamers, up the River.— The Brig Susan. —
The Bar of the Nun. — Landers' Journals. — Loss of the
Susan. — Town of Cassa — Character of the Natives. — News
of the Steamers. — Set out to Visit Brass Town. — King Boy's
Canoe and its contents. — Fish Town. — Superstitions and Ce-
remonies.— The King's Daughters. — Preparations for Arrival
at Brass. — Landing. — The King's Residence. — Observations
on Brass Town. — Funeral Ceremony. — Despotism of the
African Chiefs. — Return on board the Columbine. . 307

CHAPTER II.

Attacked with Fever — Further Mortality in the Colum-
bine.— Resort of the Slavers. — Palm-oil Trade, and Advice to
Traders. — Death of Captain Mitchell. — Arrival of an Ame-
rican Expedition. — Unfortunate Death of the Supercargo,
and Mortality on board the Vessels. — Rescue of a Native

XIV CONTENTS.

Female from Death. — A Spanish Slaver. — Generosity of her
Captain. — His Majesty's Ship Curlew. — Arrival of a Canoe

with Mr. Lander and Captain Hill Intelligence of the

Steamers. — Mr. Lander very ill. — Preparations for leaving
the Columbine to join the Vessels. . . Page 337

CHAPTER HL

Departure with Mr. Lander for the Literior. — Sunday Is-
land.— Limits of the Tide. — Nature of the River. — The Town
of Eeckow. — A Benin Branch. — Pass several Towns. — Ge-
neral Description of the River. — Land at a Village. — Recep-
tion by the Chief. — Change in the Face of the Country. — Hip-
popotami.— Unpleasant Intruders. — The Bonny and principal
Benin Branch. — Little Eboe. — River Scenery. — Curiosity of
the Natives. — Description of the River.— Difficulty of stem-
ming the Current in Canoes. ..... 357

CHAPTER IV.

Arrive at Eboe. — Visit King Obie with Presents. — Saluta-
tion of the Natives. — Interview with Obie. — Reception of the
Visiters. — Obie visits Mr. Lander in his Canoe. — His rapa-
cious Demands. — Obtain Assistance. — Character of the
Eboes. — Departure. — Kirree Pirates. — Adamey. — Reports of
the Felatahs. — Intelligence of Mr. Laird. — Arrive off At-
tah. — Messenger from the King. — The Kong Mountains
seen. — Bocqua. — Lander's Bird Rock. — Meeting with the
Steamers. ........ 381

CHAPTER V.

Rejoin the Alburkah.— Visit Mr. Laird. — His deplorable
Condition. — Return of the Steamers to Attah. — Visit to the
King of Attah. — Description of his Person and Palace.

CONTENTS. XV

Death of another Krooman. — The Steamers separate. — The
A Iburkah proceeds up the River. — Mount Caractacus. — Mal-
1am Catab ; his Character. — Straitened for Provisions. — En-
ter the Tchadda. — Lieutenant Allen taken ill. — The Albur-
kah runs aground. ..... Page 407

CHAPTER VL

Continue up the Tchadda. — Frenchwood. — Village of
Obwah and Obofoh. — Visit from the Chief. — A Defrauder
punished. — Eggoohla. — Yimmahah. — Anchor off Yoohai. —
Acatah. — The Bassa and Aquoto Country. — Anchor ofFAm-
magadah. — The Bay of Islands. — Unfavourable aspect of the
Country. — Difficulty of obtaining Provisions. — Messenger
sent to the King of Domah. — Visit Obohbe. — Return of the
Messenger. — Visit Dagboh. — Return down the Tchadda. —
The Alburkah aground. — Anchor off Oruka. — Hopes of ob-
taining Supplies. o . . . . . 427

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

The Quorra aground below the junction of the

Shary and Niger .... Frontispiece.

Chart of the River Quorra from the Town of Rabba

to the Sea, &c Page 1

King Obie visiting the Steam Vessels . . . 98

Town of Yimmahah 186

Accommodation at the Court of Fundah . . . 205

VOL. XL

Village in the Swamps where the Vessels were

attacked . . . . . Frontispiece.

View on the Niger above Idda . . . Page 119

C'-BuiZnuxr*e(«i'^' ZuJn_<ft\tfhy

Xoi^'doyu2i^6Cskia/i^JiB&roUe^, i837.

NARRATIVE.

CHAPTER I.

Reasons for the Expedition. — The Company formed. — Mr.
Landers Services engaged. — The Quorra and Alburkah
Steam-vessels and the Columbine Brig fitted and jjro-
vided with Goods for the Country. — Plan of Proceeding. —
The Expedition joined by Lieutenant Allen and Mr. Jor-
dan.— Departure from Liverpool. — Stop at Milford. — En-
gineers of Steam-vessels considered. — Final Departure from
Milford. — Remarks on the Fitting of Steam-vessels for
Steaming and Sailing. — Madeira seen. — Anchor at Port
Praya.

The attention of British merchants has long
been turned to Central Africa as an untrod-
den, and therefore profitable field for commer-
cial enterprise. The information obtained di-
rectly from English travellers, and indirectly
from captured slaves, describing that coun-
try as one on v^^hich Nature had profusely be-
stowed her choicest treasures, with the fact

VOL. I. B

2 REASONS FOR

that that immense territory, comprising one
eighth part of the surface of the globe, had
been for ages excluded from all direct commu-
nication with the civilised world, seemed to
hold out the most flattering prospects of suc-
cess to those fortunate individuals who should
be the first to break into its secluded vales.
The increase in the consumption of palm-oil
in this country, the gradual decline in the sup-
ply of ivory, added to the inconvenience arising
from the caprice and extortion of the petty
chiefs at the mouths of the principal rivers of
the African coast, stimulated the merchant to
the discovery of new and unrestricted markets ;
while the knowledge that with the imperfect
means of transit possessed by the natives, they
already exported produce to the value of one mil-
lion sterling annually to this country, presented
to his mind the ready inference that a more
direct intercourse between the producer and
the consumer would tend to the benefit of both.

It will excite no surprise, then, that the splen-
did discovery of Lander was hailed with, if pos-
sible, more enthusiasm by mercantile than by
scientific men. The long-sought-for highway
into Central Africa was at length found, as open

THE EXPEDITION. 3

by the Niger as that by the Rhine, the Danube,
the Mississippi, or the Oronooko, is into their
respective countries. To the merchant it offer-
ed a boundless field for enterprise ; to the manu-
facturer, an extensive market for his goods ;
and to the energy and ardour of youth, it pre-
sented the irresistible charms of novelty, danger,
and adventure.

It must not, however, be supposed that these
were the sole motives that actuated the pro-
moters of that expedition, the proceedings of
which are related in the following pages : other
and nobler objects were connected with them.
By introducing legitimate commerce with all
its attendant blessings into the centre of the
country, they knew that they were striking a
mortal blow to that debasing and demoralising
trafHc which has for centuries cursed that un-
happy land, and rendered some of the loveliest
tracts on the face of the globe the habitation
of wild beasts and noxious reptiles, or of man
in a condition more disgusting and degraded
than either. Under Providence, they aspired to
become the means of rescuing millions of their
fellow-men from the miseries of a religion cha-
racterised by violence and blood, by imparting

B 2

4 RICHARD LANDER.

to them the truths of Christianity, — that mild
and beneficent faith, which proclaims " peace
on earth, and good-will towards man."

Urged by such considerations, the author, in
conjunction with several other gentlemen of Li-
verpool, determined to form a company, whose
first objects should be to open a direct commu-
nication with the interior of Africa ; and, if this
were successful, to establish a permanent set-
tlement at the junction of the Tchadda and
Niger, for the purpose of collecting the various
products of the country. In furtherance of
these views, a correspondence was opened with
Mr. Richard Lander, who had already signified
to one of the parties concerned his readiness
to embark in such an enterprise. An answer
was received from him, containing the strongest
possible confirmation, in his opinion, of their
most sanguine expectations. From his own per-
sonal observation, Mr. Lander assured the com-
pany that ivory, indigo, and other valuable
produce might be collected in any quantity at
a trifling expense.

The plan first proposed was to send out a
large vessel to the Nun river, fitted for the
palm-oil trade, with a small steam-vessel to

OUR LARGER BOAT — THE QUORRA. 5

trade up the river. But after a personal com-
munication with Mr. Lander, it was deemed ad-
visable to depend solely on the trade in the
interior for the returns; to fit out tiuo steam-
vessels of light draught of water, to carry it on
in the upper part of the river, while the sail-
ing vessel waited at the mouth to receive their
cargoes.

As no steam-vessels, with the exception of
a small iron one, were to be met with suitable
for the purpose, it was determined to build a
larger of the following dimensions : — length 112,
beam 16, depth 8 feet, with a poop as high as
the waist, to give the requisite accommodation
for the officers. The keel of this vessel was laid
on the 28th March, and by considerable exer-
tions she was launched on the 2l9th May. Her
engine was a single one of forty-horse power,
manufactured by Messrs. Fawcett and Preston
of Liverpool, who had a considerable share in
the enterprise; and it is but justice to these
gentlemen to say, that the machinery of the
engine, which commonly produces so much un-
easiness to commanders of steam-vessels, was
never for a moment throughout the voyage a
subject of concern to any one : it seemed to

6 OUR SMALLER BOAT— THE ALBURKAH.

work as it were by instinct, and on leaving
Fernando Po, although I had lost my engineers
upwards of nine months before, it was still in
perfect order.

The smaller boat formed in herself the test
of an experiment of the most interesting kind.
With the exception of her decks, she was con-
structed entirely of wrought iron ; her bottom
was one fourth of an inch in thickness, and her
sides from three sixteenths to one eighth. She
was built at a considerable distance from the
water, and was conveyed on a truck through
the streets of Liverpool to the river. Her di-
mensions were, length 70, beam 13, depth GJ
feet, with an engine of sixteen-horse power.

That such a vessel would be invaluable in
river navigation we were quite aware ; but whe-
ther she could withstand the wear and tear of
a sea voyage of four thousand miles, was at
best problematical. The result has added
another to many proofs that a theory fairly
grounded on scientific principles may safely
be brought into practice even against the ad-
vice and opinions of those who are generally
supposed to be the most able to give the one

THE ALBURKAH. * 7

or to form the other. Never were men more
ridiculed than the gentlemen of the company
when fitting out this vessel for her voyage to
Africa. It was gravely asserted that the work-
ing in a sea-way would shake the rivets out of
the iron of which she was composed : the heat
of a tropical sun would bake alive her unhappy
crew as if they were in an oven ; and the first
tornado she might encounter would hurl its
lightnings upon a conductor evidently sent forth
to brave its power. But what was the actual
result ? In spite of these wise opinions, her
rivets are yet firm in their places, as the fact
of her not having made a cupful of water
sufficiently proves. Being in herself a universal
conductor, she was always at the same tempera-
ture as the water in which she floated ; and,
for the same reason, though the lightning might
play round her sides, it never could get on
board of her.

The large boat was named the Quorra, the
title given by the natives to a part of the river
— or rather, I believe, a general term applied
by them to all running waters. The smaller
boat was called the Alburkah, a Houssa word

8 AMOUNT OF CREWS.

signifying " blessing." The crew of the Quorra,
including the officers, consisted of twenty- six
men.

1 Captain. 2 Engineers.

2 Mates. 2 Firemen.
1 Purser. 2 Stewards.
1 Medical gentleman. 1 Cook.

1 Boatswain. 10 Seamen.

1 Carpenter. 2 Apprentices.

Total 26.

The crew of the Alburkah was formed of

1 Captain. 2 Firemen.

1 Mate. 1 Steward.

1 Surgeon. 1 Cook.

1 Engineer. 6 Seamen.
Total U.

The Quorra was armed with one twenty-four-
pound swivel gun forward, one eighteen-pound
carronade, also mounted on a swivel, on the
poop, and eight four-pound carriage guns on
the main deck, with a proper proportion of
small arms, not only for the crew, but also for
the Kroomen, who, it was intended, should be
shipped on the coast.

The Alburkah had one nine-pound swivel
gun forward, and six one-pound swivels on her
sides. Both vessels had their sides armed with
chevaux-de-frise, for the double purpose of re-

THE COLUMBINE. 9

sisting boarders, and preventing the natives
from crowding the decks ; a precaution which
I strongly recommend to any vessels fitting out
for a similar voyage.

The investments of goods were selected by
Mr. Lander, who, it was presumed, from his ac-
quaintance with the interior of Africa, was the
most proper person for that purpose. No ex-
pense was spared in providing not only neces-
saries, but luxuries, for the officers and crew ;
and it was generally allowed, that better-found
vessels had never left the port of Liverpool.

The sailing vessel purchased by the company,
named the Columbine, was a remarkably fine
brig, of about two hundred tons, only four years
old, and well provided with stores. She was
appointed to carry out the goods, and was to
remain at the mouth of the river to receive
any cargo which the steam-vessels might bring
down from the interior. She was to accompany
the steam-vessels on the voyage out, as, having
been built expressly for river navigation, it was
not to be expected that they would prove good
sea-boats.

In consequence of the cholera being very
prevalent in Liverpool, our orders directed us

10 MESSRS. ALLEN AND JORDAN.

to proceed to Milford, which place at that time
was still uninfected : we were to remain there
till we had ascertained that we were perfectly
free from the disease, and then to proceed in
company to the river Nun, calling at Cape
Coast Castle for Kroomen and interpreters. In
case of parting company, the harbour of Port
Praya in the island of St. Jago was the ap-
pointed rendezvous.

Before leaving Liverpool we were joined by
Lieutenant William Allen, R.N. a gentleman for
whom the admiralty had requested a passage in
one of the vessels, for the purpose of making a
survey of the river. The company had very
liberally granted this request, although they had
not received the slightest assistance or encou-
ragement from any department of the govern-
ment. The admiralty remained pledged on the
occasion that no information should be given
to the public by this officer without the express
permission of the company. About the same
time we were also joined by Mr. Jordan, a
young man of amiable manners and considerable
acquirements, whom it was intended to establish
in the interior of the country, provided his health
could withstand the effects of the climate ; but

PREPARATIONS AT LIVERPOOL. 11

owing to there not being sufficient room in the
Quorra's cabin, he made the voyage out in the
Columbine. Mr. Lander passed several weeks
in Liverpool while the vessels were preparing,
but left them a short time before we sailed,
agreeing to join the expedition, of which he was
to take the command, at Milford.

In such a purely commercial place as Liver-
pool, any enterprise that may lead to an ex-
tension of its commerce is viewed with far more
interest than persons unconnected with business
can well imagine. The speculator regrets that
he has no share in the anticipated success, — the
cool and wary merchant calculates the time that
may elapse before he can avail himself of any
discoveries that may be made, — the young and
enthusiastic envy the share of those of their own
age who, released from the thraldom of the
counting-house, are about to enter upon a new
field of enterprise and honourable danger, — while
the old and experienced, if they doubt its success,
cannot bring themselves to damp by gloomy
forebodings the buoyant and adventurous spirit
of those engaged in it. In addition then to
that of private friends and connexions, we had
also the sympathy and good-will of the public ;

12 DEPARTURE FROM LIVERPOOL.

and I will not attempt to conceal that in my own
case, at least, the consciousness of this alleviat-
ed in some degree the regret I felt on leaving
those who were nearly and dearly allied to me.

We departed from Liverpool on Wednesday
the 19th July 1832, in company with the Al-
burkah and Columbine, the latter being in tow
of a steam-vessel belonging to the City of Dublin
Company. A fresh breeze had set in from N.N.W.
and I was much pleased to find that my ex-
pectations respecting the liveliness of the Quorra
and Alburkah, and particularly the latter, were
more than realised, neither of them shipping any
water though steaming end on to a short tidal
sea. Before the pilot left us, Captain Harries
mustered all hands on deck ; and I was particu-
larly struck by their appearance of perfect so-
briety. To the reader this may appear nothing
more than regular, but it is a most uncommon
thing in a merchant ship leaving port. The
crew were all picked men from twenty-five to
thirty-five years of age ; and little did I think, as
I beheld their athletic and powerful frames, that
in a few months the only survivors of us all
would be myself and three others.

After a very good passage of thirty-six hours

ENGINEERS OF STEAM-VESSELS. 13

we arrived at Milford. A few hours later, the
Alburkah came into the harbour ; and her com-
mander Captain Hill fully corroborated by his
testimony my good opinion of his vessel. The
Columbine not being able to get round Holy
Head the day she sailed, was forty-eight hours
longer on the passage.

During our stay at Milford, where we were
detained until the 219th, waiting the arrival of
Mr. Lander, we discharged one of the engineers,
and entered another from one of the post-office
packets. The great demand for this description
of men, and the high rate of wages they can get
on shore, render it very difficult for vessels engag-
ed on foreign service to obtain them : we were ob-
liged to pay 16/. per month for men who on shore
would not have earned more than 30^. per week.
This is a great drawback on the introduction of
steam-vessels generally abroad ; and until the pro-
fession of mechanical engineering is considered a
fit pursuit for respectable young men, it must
remain so. On board a steam-vessel every officer
should be perfectly independent of the engineer ;
each should be capable of working the engines,
and of judging whether the different parts of the
machinery are kept in proper order or not. The

14 HOSPITALITY AT MILFORD.

importance of having some public means of in-
struction in this branch of practical science must
be manifest to every one. The general adoption
of steam power in the foreign packet service, and
the large capital invested in private steam-vessels,
hold out sufficient inducement to individuals who
make the profession their study; and it only re-
quires government to make it an honourable pur-
suit, by establishing a class of master engineers,
to draw hundreds of young gentlemen into it who
are now frittering away their time waiting for
commissions in the army or navy. Surely there
can be no great difference between adjusting a
screw or packing a piston, and examining a splice
or scrutinising a knapsack.

Our stay at Milford was rendered agreeable
by the hospitality and kindness of Mr. Leach
and Captain Chappell. The latter gentleman,
as agent for his Majesty's post-office packets,
granted us the use of their hulk, which enabled
Captain Harries to get our decks cleared and
stowed for sea, and to fill up with coals to the
very moment of our departure. To both these
gentlemen my grateful thanks are due for their
kind attentions, which were the more unexpected
as we were personally unknown to them.

FINAL DEPARTURE. 15

On the 2t5th, the wind being favourable and
there being no appearance of Mr. Lander, nor
any letters from him, we despatched the Colum-
bine and Alburkah, towing them both out of the
harbour. Their orders directed them to make the
best of their way to Port Praya, and there to wait
the arrival of the Quorra.

On the evening of the 29th we were agreeably
surprised by the appearance of Mr. Lander, and
in less than an hour afterwards were under weigh
with steam and sails, a light breeze having set
in from the N.E. We continued under steam
till we lost soundings ; we then disconnected the
engine, and with the freshening breeze stood
across the bay.

The difference between a sailing vessel and
a steamer was surely never more perceptible.
From going merrily along at the rate of eight
or nine knots per hour, with the paddle, as if
instinct with life, dashing and flapping the blue
waves of the ocean, the speed of our vessel sud-
denly slackened into that of a quiet Jog-trot, and
she went on rolling lazily over the long swell at
the rate of not more than two or three. Having
had the planning and fitting out of the vessel,
I was perhaps more annoyed than any of my

16 FITTING OF STEAM VESSELS.

companions at witnessing her performance under
canvass ; and as I knew the fault could not be in
her shape, as she was remarkably fast for her
power under steam, I could attribute it to no-
thing but the want of proper masts and spars.

In all voyages where steam is to be depended
on for the whole distance, the lighter the masts
and rigging are the better. In fact, a steam-
vessel then merely requires masts sufficiently
lofty to enable her to set her fore and aft sails
so as to steady her when she has the sea on her
beam. But in a voyage where the dependence
of performing it is partly on steam and partly on
canvass, a totally different rig is required : the
masts should be loftier in proportion to the beam
than even in a sailing vessel, and the lower yards
should be proportionably square. The Quorra
unfortunately was rigged in the Channel fashion,
and we were obliged to resort to the most laugh-
able devices to get her along. In vain were
spare sails set on the funnel, and awnings run out
as lower steering sails : under the most we could
do for her, and the most favourable circumstances,
we never could get even five miles per hour out
of her under sail. I have never seen it tried, but
I should think that a square mainsail set flying

FITTING OF STEAM-VESSELS. 17

would be of great use to a steam-vessel on a long
voyage.

The inconvenience attending the method we
had adopted in rigging the Quorra, was in-
creased by the paddle-boxes being so near the
surface of the water as to check her way mate-
rially at every roll the vessel made. To remedy
this in some measure, the after ends of them
were cut away, to allow a free passage for the
water ; and this produced a beneficial effect.

The management of the paddle when dis-
connected from the engine was the subject of
several experiments. The general practice is to
remove the floats and expose merely the iron rim
and arms of the wheel to the action of the water ;
but we found it better to allow the floats to re-
main on, as a much less velocity then overcame
the friction in the gudgeons than by the former
plan, and the vessel's steering was also consider-
ably improved by it. The results, as nearly as we
could ascertain, were as follows : — Without the
floats, the paddle-wheels revolved when the vessel
had a velocity of four and a half miles per hour ;
with the floats fixed, they required only a velo-
city of one and a half mile per hour to set them
in motion ; the vessel steered much easier, there

VOL. I. c

18 FITTING OF STEAM-VESSELS.

was less strain upon the paddle-boxes, and if
the paddles were to be affixed to the engine, it
was done without the delay occasioned by having
the floats to attach.

I have been more particular in stating this,
as I have known a great deal of money thrown
away in sending out steam-vessels to foreign sta-
tions with their paddle-boxes built up and their
paddles stowed on board. The safest and the
simplest plan appears to be, to complete them
as steam-vessels in this country, and after they
are fairly clear of the land, to disconnect the pad-
dles from the engine and allow them free play in
their gudgeons. They will stop the vessel's way
very little, and there is the advantage of always
having the engine to fall back upon in case of
being becalmed or getting too near the land.
We had, indeed, a striking proof of this on our
voyage out. In running down the N. E. trade
we found ourselves becalmed under the island of
Palma, though it was eight or ten miles distant
from us : there was a fine breeze about two miles
a-head. The steam was got up, the paddles
were connected, and in ten minutes after the en-
gine was at work we had as much wind as the
vessel would stand. The steam was then let

MADEIRA. — PORT PRAYA. 19

down, the boilers were blown off, the paddles
were disconnected, and we were under sail again
in less than two hours from the time we had been
becalmed.

Fortunately we had fine weather in crossing
the bay. In twelve days after we had left Mil-
ford we were in sight of Madeira, having had a
fair wind the whole way. This beautiful island,
with its bold and lofty outline, assumed a thou-
sand different forms as, impelled by the first
faint breathing of the N. E. trade wind, we sailed
slowly by it, and at every changing prospect
felt the full justice of the encomiums we had
heard lavished on its charms. Indeed, so attract-
ive did this isolated little paradise appear to us,
even from the distance at which we viewed it,
that we fain would have lingered on our way to
enjoy the contemplation of its beauties. The
balmy freshness of the air — the serenity of the
sky — the tranquil and engaging appearance of
the island, reposing as it were on the bosom of
the ocean as the abode of peace and happiness,
produced in our minds sensations of delight, and
formed a grateful contrast to the bustle and tur-
moil— the inconvenience and confinement of a
ship. On the 17th we anchored in Port Praya.

c 2

20 FAMINE AT CAPE VERD ISLANDS.

CHAPTER II.

Famine at Cape Verd Islatids. — Want of Rain. — Natives of
Port Pray a. — America?i Schooner and Cargo. — Leave Port
Praya. — Touch at Isles de Los. — Inhabitants. — Depart
from the Islands. — Voyage to York. — Reception at York. —
Lieutenant Allen and Mr. Lander taken ill. — Proceed to
Free Town. — Kroomen engaged. — Remarks on Kroomen
and Fishmen. — Their Characters compared with that of
the Negro.— Anchor off Monroria. — Strictures on the Set-
tlement.— Visit Simon River. — Cape Palmas. — The Dutch
Governor of Axim. — Arrive at Cape Coast — Remarks on
that Settlement.

At the time we visited Port Praya, the Cape
Verd Islands were suffering from the effects of a
grievous famine, arising from the want of rain,
none having fallen in any considerable quantity,
as we were informed, for three years. One thou-
sand people had died in St. Jago, and upwards
of fifteen hundred in Fogo, a smaller island, not
so much frequented by ships, and consequently
more dependant on its own resources. The go-
vernor was in politics one of Don Miguel's party.

WANT OF RAIN. 21

and, for political reasons, refused to receive the
visits of any Englishman !

I never beheld such an assemblage of wretched
and emaciated forms as crowded the streets and
beach of Port Praya on our arrival. Regretting
our own inability to supply the wants of these
miserable objects, we could not abstain from re-
flecting in no measured terms on the conduct of
a government, which could allow its colonists to
be dependant for their very existence on the
casual visits of strangers for food, while those
very colonists were within a week's sail of the
African coast. Captain Harries, who had been
here five years before with the African squadron,
described the place as then presenting the ap-
pearance of a garden; and the natives assured us
that forty-eight hours' rain would suffice to change
the face of the country. I am sure it stood much
in need of it ; — all signs of vegetation had disap-
peared, and everything was scorched and wi-
thered.

This was my first introduction to a slave popu-
lation, and I was less struck by the appearance of
the slaves than I had expected, being fresh from
a land where nakedness is never exposed save to
excite pity or disgust : but a black man in a state

22 NATIVES OF PORT PRAYA.

of nature does not particularly strike one with
any idea of indelicacy ; and he will walk delibe-
rately by you in all the dignity of nature, his
limbs unencumbered with dress, proudly yet un-
consciously asserting his right to be considered
one of the lords of creation. I could not help
thinking, whenever I saw the men strutting about
in this manner, that a white man would cut but
a sorry figure under similar circumstances. It
did not excite much sympathy in me to see the
men driven to their work and obliged to perform
it, for they evidently did not get through one
fourth part of that which a labourer would do in
England ; but it was disgusting to the feelings to
see the women toiling up the steep ascent which
leads to the town, with heavy loads of salt upon
their heads, many of them being in a state cal-
culated to excite the sympathy of any one not
entirely devoid of feeling.

There is a capital well behind the town, and
thither Dr. Briggs and I repaired for the purpose
of seeing the domestic slaves. They certainly
appeared to be a very happy and contented race.
I had often heard of African tongues, but no de-
scription could do justice to the confused clatter-
ing noise which these creatures made. We sat

AMERICAN SCHOONER AND CARGO. 23

contemplating them for some time, and were
much amused by their half Portuguese, half
English sallies at our expense.

The harbour of Port Praya abounds in fish ;
but although the people here were absolutely
starving, not more than one or two boats were
employed in fishing. I learned, however, that
the unfortunate natives, being all slaves, were
not allowed to keep canoes or boats of any kind,
lest they should take it into their heads to at-
tempt their escape to the African coast. If this
were really true, then had their owners to
answer for the double guilt of enslaving and
starving them ; and in the present instance they
most deservedly shared the evil arising from such
undue precaution, for disease and death were
making great havoc among the Portuguese as
well as the slave population, and both were alike
unable to avail themselves of that relief which
Providence had placed within their reach.

A small American schooner was lying in the
bay at the time we were there, and I could not
help admiring the enterprise and spirit displayed
by Jonathan in venturing across the Atlantic in
such a craft. She had a cargo of what he called
" notions ;" which notions consisted of a deck-

24 LEAVE PORT PRAYA.

load of timber, staves, hoops, and baskets, strung
up to the cross-trees ; tobacco, flour, household
furniture, ironmongery, crockery, old clothes,
salt fish, &c. &c. He was bartering these for
goat-skins and other produce of the island : he
had disposed of the chief part of them, and, as he
expressed it, was going " slick home" for a cargo
of Indian corn, which he calculated " would pay
considerable if the starvation progressed." He
sailed his schooner on temperance principles,
which, as his crew consisted of only a mate and
two boys, showed at once his good sense and
right feeling.

Having received our water on board, we were
under weigh, in company with the Alburkah and
Columbine, on the evening of the 19th of August,
glad to leave a place where we had only witnessed
misery without being able to alleviate it. We
continued under steam for some hours, and then,
the wind being favourable, we disconnected the
engine from the paddles and made the best of the
way we could under canvass, the brig running
with us under her topsails with the yards on the
cap. On the 20th the wind fell, and from that
time until the 1st September we had a succes-
sion of calms, with a heavy swell from the S. W.

ISLES DE LOS. 25

accompanied by the heaviest rain I ever wit-
nessed. Captain Harries took the brig in tow
several times, but the swell strained the Quorra
severely. Under these circumstances, finding
that we were being set by the swell and current
considerably to leeward. Captain Harries deter-
mined to bear up for the Isles de Los, to obtain a
supply of coals there from the Columbine, and
attempt to weather the shoals of St. Ann under
steam, after which he expected to be able to hold
his way down the coast under canvass. Under
the circumstances of our situation, I am not
aware that he could have acted otherwise — the
Quorra under canvass being worse than useless
unless the wind was abaft the beam.

We arrived at the Isles de Los on Sunday the
2nd September, and anchored between Factory
Island and the mainland. The Alburkah did not
join us till the afternoon, having being driven
still further to leeward. I was much struck with
the extreme beauty and romantic appearance of
these islands : the rich verdure with which they
were covered even to the water's edge contrasted
forcibly with the brown and cinder-like appear-
ance of those we had just left. There were no
white people on the islands at the time of our

26 ISLES DE LOS.

arrival, the British settlement there having been
long previously broken up. The inhabitants whom
we found there consisted of discharged veterans
from the West India regiments, and the colonial
schooner from Sierra Leone was lying at Ta-
mara, the principal island, paying them their
pensions. The day after our arrival, his Majes-
ty's brig Charybdis, Lieut. Crawford comman-
der, came in on her way to the Gambia, and
anchored near us. Lieut. Crawford informed us
that the slave-trade was brisker than ever on the
coast. He had been unfortunate, not having
taken any prizes, and appeared to regret very
much having to go to the northward, where there
was less chance of falling in with them.

The Isles de Los are well situated for trade in
consequence of their proximity to the mouths of
the Rio Pongo and Rio Nunez, two rivers hi-
therto little frequented by the English, though a
considerable trade has always been carried on
with them by the Spaniards and Portuguese.
The islands are also considerably healthier than
any part of the neighbouring coast ; they are
evidently volcanic, and appeared to me to have
formed the sides of an immense crater.

On Friday the 7th of September, having com-

VOYAGE TO YORK. 27

pleted our coals and water, we departed from
these islands, having previously arranged with
the Columbine and Alburkah, in case of sepa-
rating during the night, that Cape Coast Castle
should be our rendezvous. In the evening the
weather became bad and squally, and we ex-
changed blue lights with our consorts. Next
morning, the brig not being in sight, we conclud-
ed that she had stood out to sea to weather the
shoals of St. Ann, which afterwards proved to be
the case. The Alburkah having fallen consider-
ably to leeward, we took her in tow for some time;
when our fuel being nearly exhausted, we came to
an anchor in fifteen fathoms water, let down the
steam and disconnected the paddles, hoping that
we might get off the shore with the land-wind.
At midnight we started again with a light breeze,
and at six a. m. found that the current had set us
considerably to leeward, and the Alburkah still
more so. The latter vessel's bottom had become
so foul that her speed was considerably dete-
riorated by it : this circumstance, although it
proved that oxidation was not going on, was an-
noying, as it delayed us, and a little foresight
might have prevented it.

Finding it impossible to get the vessels to their

28 VILLAGE OF YORK.

destination under canvass. Captain Harries deter-
mined to anchor under York (a branch settle-
ment of Sierra Leone), then under our lee, and,
if possible, to get Kroomen there to supply the
vessels with wood on our voyage to Cape Coast
Castle, which it was too probable would be a
coasting one. On Sunday the 9th, we anchored
within a mile of the shore in company with the
Alburkah. York is one of those villages depend-
ant on Sierra Leone, where the liberated Africans
and discharged soldiers from the West India re-
giments are located. It is beautifully situated on
a hill, the superintendant's house and the school-
room crowning the summit. Sunday being the
day of our arrival, we found the inhabitants
dressed in their best attire, which gave them, and
more especially the women, a respectable and pre-
possessing appearance. We immediately called
on Mr. Pratt, the superintendant, and were much
disappointed to find that he was from home, as
we could make no arrangements for procuring
either wood or Kroomen until his return.

In his absence we were welcomed by his house-
keeper, who with true colonial hospitality press-
ed us to remain on shore, saying he might pos-
sibly arrive during the night. Mr. Lander, Lieu-

LAUGHABLE SCENE. 29

tenant Allen, and myself, accordingly took quiet
possession of his house, and were making our-
selves exceedingly comfortable, when about nine
o'clock we were surprised by the sudden appear-
ance of Captain Harries, who, not being aware of
our intention of staying all night, had brought a
boat on shore for us. Immediately on landing
he was seized by the town-guard, who, it seemed,
had been watching our movements with some
suspicion during the day, and now appeared in
considerable force to insist upon our returning
onboard. A most laughable scene ensued, which
ended in our being turned out of our comfortable
quarters and marched under escort down to our
boat, — our fair hostess alternately abusing our
conductors for their breach of hospitality, and
threatening them with the consequence of their
conduct.

Their reasons, however, appeared very good
when they were afterwards explained to us. It
is not uncommon for the liberated Africans to
be kidnapped by slave-vessels even when under
British protection, and our appearance being, to
say the least, novel, if not suspicious, the inha-
bitants in the absence of Mr. Pratt, beat to arms
for their own protection.

30 COUNTRY ROUND YORK.

In the morning Captain Harries landed a party
on a small island to cut wood, and we went on
shore to see the town and neighbourhood. The
view from the superintendant's house is grand
and imposing. To the west and south lay the
sea, with the Banana Islands and the entrance
to the Sherborough river ; and behind the house
were mountains rising almost perpendicularly
from their base, clothed with forests of immense
trees to their very summits. A large tract of
cleared and partially cultivated ground extends
from the base of the hill, on which the govern-
ment house is situated, to the banks of a moun-
tain stream which forms the boundary of the
settlement. The land did not appear to be very
good, being too much washed by the mountain
torrents during the rainy season. Ginger
seemed to be the principal plant cultivated for
export, and of that but a small quantity was in
the ground.

The luxuriance of tropical vegetation has a
most imposing effect on a person the first time
he beholds it ; while the thought that that very
luxuriance, the absence of which is deplored in
many countries, forms the bane of this, forcibly
reminds him of the impotence of human reason

RECEPTION BY MR. PRATT. 31

to fathom the designs of Omnipotence. The
wild cotton and oak trees grow to an immense
size, and are so intermixed with parasite plants
as to form an impervious shade. The stillness
which reigns throughout the scene is another of
its characteristic features, — one which chills the
heart, and imparts a feeling of loneliness which
can be shaken off only by a strong effort.

After a long walk we returned to the village,
and were welcomed with much kindness and cor-
diality by Mr. Pratt, who had arrived during our
absence. He informed us that he had no Kroo-
men, and would have to send to Free Town for
them, to which place, it being only thirty miles
distant. Captain Harries determined at once to
take the Quorra and select the men himself. We
were also in want of provisions for such an addi-
tion to our number, as it seemed probable that
the voyage might be much more protracted than
we had at first anticipated, and we were uncer-
tain where we might fall in with the brig, which
had the bulk of our stores on board.

Mr. Pratt's return having restored the confi-
dence of the people, we passed a pleasant even-
ing on shore, Lieut. Allen, Mr. Lander, and
myself remaining all night. The two former

32 KROOMEN ENGAGED.

gentlemen were seized during the night with
spasmodic colic; which so alarmed Mr. Pratt
and me, that we despatched a canoe for Dr.
Briggs of the Quorra, who came on shore imme-
diately in a torrent of rain, and by administering
powerful remedies in some measure relieved
them, though both were much weakened by the
violence of the attack.

On the 12th, having taken sufficient fuel on
board, we ran up to Free Town, leaving the
Alburkah at York. Here we were immediately
boarded by some of the gentlemen belonging to
the colony, who had heard of our being at the
Isles de Los from the schooner we had left there.

No sooner had we anchored off Free Town
than our decks were crowded with Kroomen anx-
iously beseeching us for employment. Among
others were some bumboat women screaming out
recommendations of their fruit and palm-wine,
and washerwomen of rather equivocal appearance
proffering their services. Captain Harries imme-
diately selected ten Kroomen who had previous-
ly served on board his Majesty's vessels, and
had good characters from their old commanders.
Before engaging them, they were informed of
the nature of the service for which they were

KROOMEN AND FISIIMEN. 33

required, and I was much struck by the simpli-
city and manliness of their answers. ** English-
man go to debil, Krooman go with him/' was their
general reply ; a proof not only of the inherent
bravery of the people, but of their confidence in
the character of an Englishman, and, let me add,
also a tacit admonition to their employers of the
responsibility they are under to treat them well,
and, by setting them a proper example, to pre-
serve their good opinion. As I consider myself
under great obligations to this class of men, I
may be excused for adding a short account of
their country, their habits, and pursuits.

The Kroo country extends from Simon River
along the coast to Cape Palmas, and from
thence to Cape Lahoo. The inhabitants of
that district consist of two distinct classes,
namely, Kroomen and Fishmen ; the former be-
ing the best axemen and servants on shore, and
the latter excelling as boatmen and sailors. The
dexterity of the Fishmen in the water is quite
astonishing. They avail themselves of their su-
perior skill in this respect to waylay the Kroo-
men on their return from Sierra Leone in the
small canoes in which they are accustomed to
make the passage along the coast laden with

VOL. I. D

34 REMARKS ON

goods, the produce of their wages. The Fish-
men exact a tribute from the Kroomen when
passing their shores ; and if their demands be
not complied with, they will upset their canoes,
and from their superior agility in the water
generally manage to secure the greater portion
of the cargoes. In Sierra Leone they inhabit a
small village close^to Free Town, and keep them-
selves apart from the emancipated negroes, on
whom they look down with most sovereign con-
tempt. Their mode of life is very peculiar.
Their own country producing barely sufficient to
support them, every Krooman or Fishman leaves
home at the age of thirteen or fourteen, under
the care and patronage of a headman, who con-
ducts him to Sierra Leone and takes him on
board of any ship in which he may happen to be
employed on the coast, with the rest of the boys
who may have been placed under his manage-
ment, and who generally amount to eight or ten
in number. The headman receives their wages,
keeps them in order, flogs them when required
to do so, and after a certain period they are at
liberty to work on their own account. It is in
fact a regular system of apprenticeship.

A collection of these headmen reside at Free

KROOMEN AND FISIIMEN. 35

Town ; and every ship, immediately she arrives,
is boarded by them with their boys clamouring
for employment. The agreement is made with
the headman, who selects the number of boys
required, and trots them out for inspection ; and
as they are not much encumbered with clothing,
a single glance is sufficient to discover those
that will suit. Three yards of cloth suffice for
the equipment of each, and they are ready to
go to sea immediately. The wages at Sierra
Leone are four dollars per month paid in goods,
or about two and a half dollars sterling. These
people have the common failing of negroes — they
are given to lying and pilfering; but they never
desert their employers in danger or distress;
they are constitutionally brave, and are easily
kept in order: they are the life and soul of the
trade on the coast ; without them the cargoes
could not be stowed, nor could boats be manned.
The Kroomen are the principal woodcutters
in Sierra Leone, and great numbers are con-
stantly employed in the squaring and floating of
African teak to the ships. This timber is found
in great abundance on the banks of the river of
Sierra Leone and its tributaries, and is in fact
the only production of the colony that forms an

d2

36 KROOMEN AND FISHMEN.

article of considerable exportation. Kroomen
are also employed in great numbers as trading
men on the coast; and it is said that where
confidence is reposed in them, they are found
not undeserving of it. Their moral character is
better than that of their brethren the Fishmen;
but they are not so fine a race of men, and are
comparatively useless on board a ship.

The great object of the Krooman or the Fish-
man is to get as many v^^ives as will support him
in idleness in his own country. The instant,
therefore, that he has earned and stolen money
enough to purchase one, he sets out with two
or three of his companions in a canoe for the
Kroo country. On his arrival he lays his trea-
sures before the father of his intended ; and if
they are considered sufficient, he enjoys her
society for a week. He then leaves her with
her family to set about obtaining another by his
next trip ; he returns to Sierra Leone, and goes
on board a ship upon the coast to earn the price
of a second wife ; and he repeats the process
until he has a colony of wives at Cape Palmas,
or in its neighbourhood, and then retires from
active life, not upon his fortune, but upon his

KROOMEN AND NEGROES. 37

wives, they supporting him in dignified idleness
by their labour.

The difference between the negroes generally
and the Kroomen appears to be, that the latter
may be stimulated to immediate exertion for the
sake of future gain, while the negroes can be ex-
cited only by existing necessity or fear. The ap-
pearance of the Kroomen is much superior to that
of any other race of negroes on the coast ; they are
generally tall and well-proportioned, their limbs
are muscular, their gait erect and firm. I was
informed that they are never taken as slaves, in
consequence of the unyielding spirit they have
always displayed ; and indeed there is a certain
air about them which proves that they were born
free and will still remain so. On board ship
they are punished when necessary by their head-
man, who flogs them most severely on its being
required by his captain ; but it is considered
dangerous to interfere with his office in this par-
ticular, as instances have been known of their
jumping overboard after being flogged by a white
man. Considering them altogether, they are de-
cidedly the most interesting race of people to be
found on the African coast, and if they were pro-

38 SHOALS OF ST. ANN.

perly educated, might be made exceedingly useful
as agents to forward the great design of civilising
Africa.

In the morning of the 13th of September, Cap-
tain Harries waited on the governor. Colonel
Findlay, who politely ordered that we should be
supplied with provisions from the government
stores. At three o'clock we left Free Town, ac-
companied a short distance by several gentlemen
belonging to the colony, and in the evening ar-
rived at York.

On the 15th, having bidden farewell to our
kind and hospitable host, Mr. Pratt, we departed
from York, taking the Alburkah in tow ; and pass-
ing the Banana Islands, steered across the shoals
of St. Ann, through a narrow and rather intricate
channel, an outline sketch of which had been
given to Captain Harries by Mr. M'Cormack of
Sierra Leone. These shoals are the only dan-
gers of any importance between Sierra Leone
and the equator, and from the shifting nature
of their sands are always allowed, as seamen ex-
press it, " a wide berth."

After steaming thirty-six hours, we discon-
nected the engine and made sail, expecting from
the course which the vessel lay to have a quiet

MONROVIA. — CALDWELL. 39

passage to Cape Coast. On Tuesday the 19th
we made Cape Mesurado, having fallen about
forty-five miles to leeward while under canvass.
On our arrival in the bay off Monrovia, the Ame-
rican settlement, we found two American brigs
and a schooner lying at anchor, the latter be-
longing to the colony.

The appearance of Monrovia from the sea is
picturesque. Cape Mesurado, on the side of
which it stands, rises abruptly from a low flat
shore, and towards the sea is almost perpendi-
cular. As our only object was to obtain a supply
of fuel, we were much disappointed on finding
that the river St. Paul was not considered navi-
gable, no vessel, with the exception of a small
schooner of fifty tons burthen, having crossed the
bar. As it was impossible to get wood from off
the beach without great delay, Captain Harries
determined to attempt the bar ; and accordingly
having sounded it, and finding seven feet water,
we crossed in safety and found ourselves in a
small shallow river full of rocky shoals. On the
arrival of the Alburkah we proceeded about two
miles and a half up the river, to Caldwell, an-
other settlement of the Americans. The gover-
nor had sent a gentleman of colour with us to

40 AMERICAN SETTLEMENT

obtain supplies of wood ; and immediately on
his arrival, the inhabitants went to work and cut
sufficient wood in two days to fill both vessels.
On the 2l4th we recrossed the bar, and proceeded
on our voyage with the Alburkah in tow.

As Liberia is a settlement that has been much
talked of, having excited a great deal of interest
in this country, I am induced to record the im-
pression it made on my mind during our short
stay there. It is well known that the object of
this colony is professedly the civilisation of Africa,
by the introduction of free American negroes as
voluntary settlers, under a democratical form of
government. But let us inquire how this object
is carried into execution. In the American States,
particularly those of the South, the life of a free
negro is embittered by every means that the in-
genuity of a slave-holder can devise : he is con-
stantly liable to insult and oppression, and is
always looked on with suspicion and distrust ; —
suspicion, from the consciousness of his oppressor
that he has much to avenge, — distrust, from the
increase of their number, wealth, and intelligence.
These appeared to me the principal motives for
establishing the colony of Liberia. The free ne-
groes of the Southern States of America were

OF LIBERIA. 41

becoming too numerous, and therefore dangerous,
and Liberia in Africa was colonised to perpetuate
the existence of slavery in the Western hemi-
sphere. It may be said that free negroes are not
forced to go to Liberia, and perhaps actual force
may not have been, and may not be resorted to ;
— but what is the case ? — first, their lives are
rendered miserable by a continued series of petty
oppressions, and then Liberia is held out to them
as a sort of paradise of plenty and freedom
where no white man is to be allowed to tyrannise
or oppress. An intelligent mulatto said to me
on my questioning him on the subject, "It was
not exactly kidnapping, but we were inveigled
away under false pretences."

As to civilising Africa by means of Liberia, it
is well known that from the time the colony was
first established it was constantly at war with the
natives, until their partial extermination left the
strangers in peaceable possession. It is true
they assert that they bought the ground with the
right of extension ; but this only adds hypocrisy
to cruelty.

As to the commercial situation of the colony,
the Americans have certainly not shown their
usual acuteness in the choice of natural ad van-

42 AMERICAN SETTLEMENT

tages : instead of fixing their head-quarters at
the mouth of some considerable river, they have
taken possession of the most unhealthy and sterile
part of the coast, with no inlet into the interior ;
the consequence of vrhich is, that they are de-
pendent on the uncivilised negroes on the Grain
Coast for their supplies of food. It is certainly
not to be expected that an infant colony can sup-
port itself for the first few years ; but it appears
questionable whether Liberia will ever raise food
sufficient for a very moderate population, and it
certainly never can export any quantity of tro-
pical produce. During the time we remained
in the river St. Paul our vessels were crowded
by respectable and intelligent mulattoes, all of
whom, with the exception of the coloured editor
of the Liberia Gazette, and one or two others
in the pay of the Society by whom they are sent
from America, complained bitterly of the deceit
that had been practised towards them, and of the
privations under which they were then suffering.
It was often a source of regret to me during our
voyage that I had not acceded to their wishes,
and taken some of them on board our vessels, as
they were fine intelligent men who would have

OF LIBERIA. 43

been invaluable to us in the interior; and I
strongly recommend, in any future expeditions
of this kind, that the crews be completed here
in preference to taking Europeans as sailors and
engineers.

It is needless to say, that the foregoing remarks
are not meant to reflect on the motives of those
gentlemen both in America and England who
advocate the cause of a free negro settlement.
No doubt they acted on the information they re-
ceived ; but I am not aware that any of them
have personally witnessed the actual working of
the system. The principle of negro colonisation
is admirable ; and if the money and life that have
been expended on Liberia had been properly ap-
plied, the results would, ere now, have been very
different. I have no hesitation in affirming, that
if the Americans had formed Liberia either at the
mouth of the Rio Ponga, the Rio Nunez, or the
Rio Grande on the windward coast, or on Fer-
nando Po, Corisco, or Cameroons on the leeward
coast, it would have been a thriving and inde-
pendent colony by this time : there never was a
collection of men better formed and adapted by
nature and circumstances for African colonists

44 SIMON RIVER.

than the American negroes — they have all the
acuteness and enterprise of the Yankee grafted
on an African constitution.

On the 27th, our fuel being expended, we
were again under the necessity of entering one
of the small rivers which are so numerous on the
coast for a fresh supply : it was called by the na-
tives Simon River. We found the banks inha-
bited by a mixed race of Kroomen and negroes.
It is a noted slaving place, and the natives had
great quantities of firewood piled up in readiness
for a large slave-brig that was expected. The
mode of collecting slaves on this part of the coast,
where one depot is not sufficiently large to load
a vessel, differs from that on the leeward coast.
A slaver comes on the coast to windward about
the Gallinas River, and runs down as far as Cape
Palmas, calling at all the small slaving rivers
and ports, and leaving an assortment of trading
goods to purchase slaves, having arranged the
time the cargo is to be ready for shipment, which
is generally in five or six weeks. The vessel then
runs off the coast, and, if boarded by any of our
cruisers, reports herself as bound for Prince's
or St. Thomas's Islands. At the expiration of
the time she returns, and commencing at the

TWO RIVAL CHIEFS. 45

most windward depot, in a few days completes
her living cargo.

As soon as we had arrived in the river, we
were visited by the chief of the eastern bank,
who assured us that he only suffered his opposite
neighbour, the chief of the western bank, to ex-
ist for compassion's sake. The only difference
we could perceive in these two rival chiefs was,
that one painted his face white, while the other
painted his red ; but we were so far fortunate in
having two vessels, as by assigning the supplies
of the Alburkah for one, and those of the Quorra
for the other, we were enabled to please both.
By bartering cloth for firewood, we succeeded in
filling both vessels by the 30th, as the natives
are expert axemen, and had besides a large stock
ready cut. Dr. Briggs and I availed ourselves
of the leisure in this interval to take a long ram-
ble in the country, and visited several of the
huts : those we entered had a floor formed of
split bamboos raised about two feet from the
ground ; they were clean and neat in their in-
terior arrangements. The shores about this part
are rocky and bold, and evidently of volcanic
origin.

On Monday the 1st of October, we anchored

46 FORT OF AXIM.

off Cape Palmas to complete our complement of
Kroomen, which we effected by taking ten fine
fellows in addition to those we had obtained at
Sierra Leone. Being anxious to see the head-
quarters of this interesting race, I tried to land ;
but the boat I was in was nearly swamped by a
roller in a vain attempt to cross the bar of the
small river under the cape, and I was glad to
get on board the Quorra again into safety. I re-
gretted not being able to land, as I had under-
stood that many European articles were to be
found in the houses of the chief men, with which
they are regularly supplied by their countrymen
from Sierra Leone.

On the 6th of October we came to an anchor
off the Dutch fort of Axim. Having finished
our last stick of firewood, Mr. Lander and Lieut.
Allen went on board the Alburkah, she having
still some left, the former being anxious to reach
Cape Coast for the purpose of arranging matters
concerning his men. In the morning of the 7th
we went on shore, and were welcomed by the
governor of the fort, who was the only European
resident. His garrison consisted of one corporal
and five men, who, he told us, gave him infinitely
more concern and trouble than all the rest of his

SINGULAR MODE OF PUNISHMENT. 47

subjects. We were not a little amused at the
method adopted by this son of Mars in adminis-
tering his authority, which extends from Cape
Apollonia on the west to Dix Cove on the east.
His plan was simply as follows : — On receiving a
complaint from any one within his district, he im-
mediately sends his stick to the village in which
the offender resides. The messenger who is
charged with it places it upright in the ground
in the centre of the village, and remains close by
it. The natives know well the meaning of this,
and that the appearance of the governor's stick in
this formal manner is nothing more or less than
a demand of eight ackeys, or half an ounce of
gold, from the offending person. The messenger
remains by his charge for twenty-four hours if
the offender be obdurate ; at the expiration of
which time the governor's hat is despatched after
the stick, and is deliberately placed on it as it
stands in the ground. This, however, makes the
matter more serious, and the demand is increased
to an ounce of gold in consequence. Should the
hat and the stick be insufficient to move the of-
fender to pay the fine, a third messenger appears
with the governor's sword, and an additional
ounce of gold is required ; and it is a remarkable

48 ARRIVAL AT CAPE COAST.

fact, that this last resource has never yet been
known to fail — in fact, the stick alone is gene-
rally all-sufficient. In addition to this, there
is a certain charge for putting a prisoner into
irons, and another for taking him out again ;
another for his lodging in the castle while con-
fined, and another to the constable for locking up.
I had often heard of Dutch colonial tyranny,
but could not have imagined it carried to such
an extent ; nor could I have imagined that the
natives would have submitted to it.

The trade of Axim is entirely in the hands of
the governor, and a fine of two ounces of gold is
levied on any native trading direct with a Eu-
ropean vessel. By great exertion we succeeded
in getting a little firewood on board, for which
we had to pay an extravagant price to his excel-
lency.

Departing from Axim, we arrived at Cape
Coast on the 9th, where we found the Columbine
awaiting our arrival. She had made a good pass-
age after parting with us off Sierra Leone, and
had been at her present anchorage nearly three
weeks.

At Cape Coast Castle we received the great-
est attention and kindness from the governor.

DRIVE IN THE GOVERNOR'S CARRIAGE. 49

George McLean, Esq. who insisted that we
should take up our quarters with him while we
stayed at Cape Coast. At his table we met se-
veral gentlemen connected with and resident in
the colony ; and certainly their appearance did
not tend to confirm the generally-received opi-
nion of the extreme unhealthiness of the climate :
if they were unhealthy, they did not appear so ;
and if unhappy, their countenances and behaviour
belied them, for more cheerful and pleasant com-
panions I had never before met with.

On the day after our arrival, the governor
treated me to a drive in his light carriage.
When the reader is informed that he drove four-
in-hand, he must not imagine that horses are here
meant. The governor's carriage of Cape Coast
Castle was drawn by four negroes, natives of the
soil, who tramped along right merrily at the rate
of five miles per hour. At first I was somewhat
shocked at what seemed to me a little stretch of
power ; but discovered that the honour of being
put into harness in the governor's carriage was
eagerly sought for by the natives, and that those
who were selected for the service were objects of
envy among their countrymen. During the drive
we had much conversation respecting the inter-

VOL. I. E

50 , REMARKS ON

nal trade and our own prospects ; and I shall al-
ways entertain a grateful sense of the readiness
with which Mr. M'Lean gave me his opinion and
his reasons for it, — an opinion which was after-
wards confirmed by my own observation and ex-
perience.

The establishment of Cape Coast is managed
by a committee of merchants trading to that
part of the African coast : they are appointed by
government, which has a veto on the appoint-
ments. The governor has no jurisdiction beyond
the walls of the castle ; but the natives all look to
him for protection, and his word is law over the
whole Fantee country. It is generally allowed by
those who knew the colony while it was directly
under the control of our government, that the
fort and its dependency Accra are kept in a much
more effective state at the present allowance of
three thousand five hundred pounds per annum,
with a garrison of one hundred black men, than
when it cost the nation thirty thousand per an-
num, with a garrison of six hundred white men.
This is a strong proof of the credit due to the
present governor, and the applicability of the
plan to other establishments on the coast.

This colony has a direct trade with Sockatoo,

THE SETTLEMENT OF CAPE COAST. 51

through Boussa and the Ashantee country. The
Bornou kafilas bring to the eastern and northern
borders of Ashantee ivory and slaves, receiving
in return a few British and Portuguese goods,
but principally goora nuts. Its chief export,
however, is gold dust, the whole country being
impregnated more or less with that precious
metal, and many of the natives may continually
be seen washing and sifting the gravel at the sea-
side in search of it. This abundance of gold is
one principal cause of the dissipated, worthless
character of the people, who are, gamblers in their
business, notorious liars, cowards, and thieves.
Mr. M'Lean had made several efforts to induce
the idle surplus population to apply themselves to
agriculture, but in vain ; the fascinating uncer-
tainty of their favourite pursuit always prevailing
over the sober realities of a legitimate and ra-
tional occupation. I was much interested with
the account which I received of the Ashantee
character : it appears to be very far superior to
that of the Fantee or coast people, and it is to be
regretted that we were ever drawn into the ridi-
culous and useless war which embroiled us with
that nation.

As some proof of the musical talent of the

E 2

52 REMARKS ON

people, it may be mentioned that Mr. M'Lean
has a capital band formed by native musicians,
who play all the old Jacobite airs of my native
land with good taste and precision. The leader
is the only one among them who can read a
note of music ; and all the rest, amounting to
some fifteen or twenty, have learned and re-
tained them by ear. To belong to the go-
vernor's band is the height of Fantee ambition.

The unhealthiness of Cape Coast has been
attributed to the effects of a large morass si-
tuated to windward of it ; but it appears to be
much more sickly in some years than in others.
On our arrival we found the hospital closed,
and there had not been a patient in it for nine
months. All the gentlemen resident were, and
had been for some time, in good health ; in fact,
the place appeared to be getting a good cha-
racter : but it must be borne in mind that there
are not twenty white men in the colony, and
none of the lower class, excepting now and then
a drunken or mutinous sailor who may happen
to be taken out of a merchant-vessel and kept
for the first man-of-war.

In the year 1824, when the fort was garrisoned

THE SETTLEMENT OF CAPE COAST. 53

by European troops, of six hundred men, two hun-
dred and ninety-five fell victims to the climate ;
and in 1825 and 1826, of three hundred and
twenty-nine Europeans admitted into the hospi-
tal, only thirty-two died. I am inclined to think
that the decrease in the mortality arose more
from the survivors being seasoned to the climate,
than from any decrease of the poisonous miasma.

The Fantees, as well as the Ashantees, ma-
nufacture gold into a variety of beautiful trin-
kets : their chains especially are highly valued,
in consequence of the purity of the metal. Mr.
M*Lean showed me an Ashantee " cable-laid"
chain of the most perfect manufacture, and a
snuff-box which a native had made, that, with
the exception of the hinges, would not have
disgraced a London artist. The usual way of
getting a ring or any article made, is to weigh
out the gold dust to the workman, who returns
with the article completed, being less in weight
by one fifth, which repays him for his workman-
ship and waste of metal.

The quantity of gold produced on the Gold
Coast varies from forty thousand to fifty thou-
sand ounces, and is all collected by washing.

54 CAPE COAST.

I have seen several lumps of gold embedded in
quartz, but never combined with any other mi-
neral.

One of our seamen, who was suffering from
dropsy, was landed here at his own request,
and, I subseqently heard, died a few days after
our departure.

LEAVE CAPE COAST. 55

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Cape Coast. — Captain Harries and an En-
gineer taken ill. — Description of a Tornado. — Anchor off
the Nun. — Death of Captain Harries and the Second En-
gineer.— Tribute to the Memory of the former. — The Ves-
sels enter the River. — Dangers of the Bar. — Preparations
for jjroceeding up the River. — Anchor off King Boys Bar-
racoon. — Effects of Climate. — Remarks on the Natives. —
Continue up the River. — Anchor off Inghirami. — News of
Hostilities. — Coolness of a Native Pilot. — A Village burnt.
— The Warree Branch. — Anchor off" Eggabo. — Boy and
his Wives. — Arrival at Eboe.

Mr. Lander having completed his arrange-
ments with Pascoe, Mina, Jowdie, and some
other men who had accompanied him on his
former expedition as interpreters, we took
leave of our hospitable friend the Governor
of Cape Coast Castle at four p.m. of the 11th,
and left our anchorage under canvass. The
Columbine in heaving short broke the arm of
her anchor, and came to again with her best
bower. As we had drifted to leeward a con-

56 CAPT. HARRIES AND THE ENGINEER.

siderable distance, we continued on our course
for the river Nun, expecting the brig and the
Alburkah to follow us during the night.

In the course of the evening Captain Harries
complained of a stiff neck, which he attributed
to sleeping with one of the cabin windows open
to the land-breeze. The second engineer, George
Curling, was also slightly indisposed. Dr. Briggs
prescribed for the latter ; but Harries would
take no advice, and insisted on keeping the
deck.

On the following day, the 12th, we had a fine
fair wind ; but the Quorra under all her can-
vass could only make about five miles per hour,
steering at the same time two and a half points
to windward of our course, to compensate for
the indraught into the bight. As we were draw-
ing towards our destination, the men were now
busily employed in fixing the chevaux-de-frise*
round the vessel's sides. Captain Harries be-
came worse, and symptoms of fever appeared ;
but we could not prevail on him to take the

* This contrivance was intended to prevent our being
boarded by the natives ; but fortunately we had no occasion
for proving its value, although it was of considerable service
to us in preventing them from crowding and incommoding
our decks.

WHITE TORNADO. 57

advice of Dr. Briggs. Curling, the second en-
gineer, was rather better.

On the 13th of October the wind still continued
fair, and we had remarkably fine weather. An
incident happened in the morning on our meet-
ing for prayers that produced considerable amuse-
ment at the time, ill corresponding with the gra-
vity of the occasion on which we had assembled.
Dr. Briggs, who always officiated for us, was just
commencing his usual duty, when a white tor-
nado came on us, so suddenly without its cus-
tomary warning, that in an instant, being un-
prepared for it, the whole of us rushed simul-
taneously from the poop in all directions for
shelter ; Dr. Briggs and I made a short cut
through the skylight into the cabin, while the
seamen, with their characteristic love of mischief,
prevented the engineers from getting below until
their clothes were thoroughly drenched by the
torrents of rain which accompanied the squall.
On this part of the coast tornadoes are fre-
quent ; but, excepting one similar to that which
we experienced this morning, — and it was not at
all violent, — they always give warning ; — in fact,
I never saw more than three or four that did not
give timely notice of their approach.

58 TORNADO DESCRIBED.

There is something awfully grand and im-
pressive in the appearance of the heavens before
a heavy tornado. A dark mass of clouds collects
on the eastern horizon, accompanied by frequent
loud but short noises, reminding one of the mut-
tering and growling of some wild animal in a
voice of thunder. This mass or bank of clouds
gradually covers one half of the horizon, extend-
ing to it from the zenith ; but generally before
this a small and beautifully-formed radiant arch
on the verge of the horizon appears, and gradually
increases. Long before it reaches the vessel, the
roaring whistle of the whirlwind is heard, pro-
ducing nearly as much noise as the peals of
thunder that seem to rend the very clouds apart
from each other. The course of the squall is
distinctly marked by the line of foam it throws
up, and I have stood on the taffrail of a vessel
and felt the first rush of the wind while her head
sails were becalmed. The sensation it produces
afterwards is cheering and delightful. From
breathing a close and murky atmosphere loaded
with unpleasant vapours that invariably precede
the tornado, the mind becomes relieved as it
were from a load, the air is fresh and clear, and
everything around is exhilarating. On our voyage

INCREASING ILLNESS OF CAPT. HARRIES. 59

we had been favoured with many of these squalls ;
and when in soundings, we always anchored and
rode them out, or else turned tail and ran round
the compass with them under nothing but the
fore staysail, with the sheet secured a-midships.
With all their inconveniences, they are of the ut-
most benefit, as they clear the atmosphere and
render it pure and bracing, removing at once the
oppressive and noxious vapours with which it is
charged. I remember once hearing an old sea-
man observe respecting them, " Ay, it 's only
ould Nature sneezing ;" and I thought the remark
not badly applied.

Harries was much worse to-day, and still per-
sisted in refusing either medicine or advice, from
an opinion that starving himself was quite suf-
ficient. George Curling, the engineer, became
much better and appeared on deck. ,

On the 14th, poor Harries became still worse,
and at length submitted to have a blister ap-
plied on the back of his head. This was done
by Dr. Briggs, who also prescribed for him. I
did not consider him in any danger ; but from
some conversation we had together I found that
he, poor fellow ! thought otherwise, and for the
first time in the voyage I was affected at the

60 TAKE CHARGE OF THE QUORRA.

thought of losing a companion. He talked of
himself and his illness in terms of great anxiety;
and I found that he had a presentiment on his
mind which he could not shake off, that his visit
to Cape Coast would be fatal to him. Perhaps
the remembrance of the sickness he had witnessed
there in his Majesty's ship Esk, when he was
master of that vessel, may have given rise to it.
He desired me to take charge of the Quorra, as
he did not consider his mate capable of keeping
the crew in order. Such a communication from
him being so entirely unexpected, fell like an
electric shock on my mind, and produced feelings
of sorrow and anxiety, — the former from the idea
of losing him, and the latter from my deficiency
in the knowledge of seamanship, which was in-
creased from a consciousness that the vessel was
difficult to manage under canvass.

Early in the morning of the 15th, being in
twelve fathoms water and a tornado coming on,
I anchored, and had barely time to get the sails
furled before it broke upon us and continued for
two hours with great violence. We had to veer
sixty fathoms of chain before the vessel was
brought up. The weather being very thick, and
suspecting we were embayed, I remained at an-

RIVER NUN. 6l

chor until twelve o'clock, when it cleared away,
and I obtained a meridian observation by which
I found that we were abreast of the river Dodo,
the current having set us into the bight. I
therefore got under weigh ; but finding the swell
still setting us in-shore, we were obliged to bring
her up again in five fathoms water.

On the I6th, Harries was much worse and be-
came delirious ; Curling also had a relapse and
was worse ; — though neither of them would have
been considered dangerously ill in England. At
day-break, there being a light land-breeze, we tried
the vessel again under canvass, but could not get
her ahead. At nine we got up steam, and at five
p. M. anchored off the mouth of the river Nun,
in four and a half fathoms. On our arrival I was
much disappointed at not finding the Columbine,
as our fuel was expended. In the afternoon
Captain Harries and Curling were very ill, and
both of them delirious.

At day-break of the 17th, a black pilot, named
Dedo, came on board in a canoe paddled by
twenty men, and offered to take the vessel into
the river : but having heard a bad account of
the Nun pilots, I thought it safer to take the gig
and examine the bar, at the same time allowing

62 DEPLORABLE STATE OF A BRIG.

him to remain on board. I had been up all
night, attending on poor Harries ; but the duty-
being urgent, I departed in the gig, with four
Kroomen and a leadsman, for the mouth of the
river. We found that the reefs extended out
two miles from the main land, and that there
were two fathoms on the bar at low water. We
proceeded some miles up the river, and found the
brig Susan, of Liverpool, loaded with palm-oil,
and waiting for assistance to enable her to quit
the river. She had been lying there seven months,
the last four of which she had been ready for sea,
but was unable to get out from want of hands,
having lost seven men out of twelve. The vessel
was in a most deplorable condition, and to all ap-
pearance not seaworthy ; and the miserable rem-
nant of the crew were more like spectres than
men. Her commander informed me that he had
purchased Mr. Lander's journal from King Boy,
and had paid two hundred pounds for it ; but from
the fellow's looks I much doubted his assertion.

By two in the afternoon I returned to the
Quorra, having suiFered much from the intense
heat of the sun, to which I had been exposed for
above eight hours. My black friend the pilot,
I found, had been excessively uneasy during my

DEATH OF CAPT. HARRIES AND ENGINEER. 63

absence ; but after being paid for his detention,
he recovered his self-possession and left us with
the promise to return in the morning. To my
great astonishment, he paddled his canoe direct-
ly through the breakers. How he managed it
I know not ; but I certainly have seen the long
canoes of these natives live in a surf that would
have swamped any European boat : perhaps the
number of paddles which they have, and the dex-
terous manner of using them, may in some mea-
sure account for it.

At four in the afternoon the Columbine hove
in sight. I sent word to her commander, as she
neared us, to bring his vessel up in six fathoms,
with the river open to the N. E. On his arrival
we found that he had missed the Alburkah the
same night that he left Cape Coast.

Captain Harries became worse, and Dr. Briggs
appeared very anxious about him.

At four o'clock on the morning of the 18th, I
retired to rest, worn out both in mind and body,
having remained by Harries the whole night. In
two hours afterwards I was called by Dr. Briggs,
and found Harries dying in his arms. He ex-
pired half an hour after I went to them, without
a struggle. At ten o'clock in the forenoon, the

64 TRIBUTE TO CAPT. HARRIES.

second engineer, George Curling, died with ex-
actly the same symptoms. At two p. M. we
committed their bodies to the deep, firing the
customary salute over that of our lamented com-
mander. During our tedious and trying passage
out. Captain Harries had sacrificed his own com-
fort so much to us, and endeared himself to us
by so many little kindnesses and attentions, that
his death was severely felt by me. He was much
beloved by his crew for the kindness and consi-
deration with which he always treated them ; al-
though at the same time he was a strict disciplin-
arian, and insisted that the duty should be done
well and quickly ; and it was gratifying to see the
sensibility which they displayed on the melan-
choly occasion of his death.

Considering the difficulties which Captain Har-
ries had to contend with, he had made an excel-
lent passage to the coast ; and any seaman would
acknowledge, that the navigation of a vessel hav-
ing about eight feet above the water and only
five below it was no easy matter. Certain I am
that no exertion on his part was wanting, for a
more active and energetic seaman I never met
with. I deplored his loss on my own account, as
I had a strong personal regard for him ; I la-

DANGER OF THE BAR. 65

merited it for the sake of my copartners in equip-
ping the expedition, for I was well aware that
their interests would suffer in consequence.

At daylight of the 19th I sent the mate on
board of the Columbine to get her launch hoisted
out and loaded with coals for us. At noon he
returned, and we immediately got up steam and
towed the Columbine over the bar, on which were
two fathoms and three-quarters at quarter-flood.
Her long boat, which she had in tow astern, carried
away her painter and was swamped in the surf.
As the recovery of this boat was necessary in
consequence of her great importance to us, I
manned two boats and sent them after her, and
after anchoring the brig in the river, went out
after them in the Quorra, as the ebb-tide was now
running furiously and drifting them on the lee-
breakers. Fortunately we got hold of them all,
but not before we had found ourselves in one
and three-quarters fathom water. The tide was
so strong that we could only stem it by the united
power of steam and canvass, and even then were
three hours in making good a distance of three
miles. The sea on these bars is frightful while
the ebb-tide is running. In going in we were
pooped twice ; but fortunately the boat was well

VOL. I. P

66 THE PILOT DEDO.

and steadily steered, or the consequences might
have been serious. In the evening the Alburkah
hove in sight, and came to an anchor off the bar.
My friend the pilot did not keep his promise
to-day. Probably the reason he did not make
his appearance arose from being kept so long a
prisoner yesterday ; and as we had found our way
safely in over the bar, I thought it not improba-
ble that we should have a visit from him the
next morning. This fellow Dedo has the reputa-
tion of being a great scoundrel, and of having wil-
fully lost several trading vessels on the bar : but
though I have no partiality for the man, it is but
justice to say that the rapidity of the ebb-tide
appears to me to have had a great deal more to
do with it than the pilot. The ebb sets directly
across the windward bar, and any captain of a
vessel not aware of this peculiarity naturally hugs
the windward reef in going out. If it should fall
calm, or the wind should lull for a minute, he is
lost, as the tide sweeps him instantly on the reef.
It is the nature of man, be he black or white, to
lay the blame of his misfortunes upon every one
but himself; and this unfortunate pilot Dedo has
had to bear the obloquy of all the wrecks that
have happened in the river Nun.

PUNISHMENT FOR STRIKING THE CHIEF. 67

While entering the river I looked in vain for
the battery described by former visitors as being
on the eastern side of the river ; not a vestige of
it was to be seen, and none of the natives of whom
I inquired appeared to recollect anything of it.
It was rather remarkable that I had entered the
river on my natal day : whether to think it a good
or a bad omen I knew not, but I found myself
speculating now and then on where my next
might be passed. The river where we lay ap-
peared about three quarters of a mile broad,
having an average depth of six fathoms. I an-
chored the Columbine with both points of the
entrance open, in order that she might have all
the benefit of the sea-breeze.*

On the following morning I was under the
painful necessity of punishing a man for striking
the chief. Having made every preparation, be-
fore a lash was given I offered him the alterna-
tive of leaving the vessel for the Susan^ then
lying in the river ; by which offer I got rid of a
worthless character, without disgracing the vessel
by inflicting corporal punishment.

* I was happy to find on my return, that her mortaHty
had been much less than that of other vessels which had
been in the river and had anchored M'ithin the swamps.

F 2

68 TEMPTING OFFER TO THE MEN.

The Alburkah came over the bar in good style
this morning, and I repaired on board her imme-
diately to inform Mr. Lander of our melancholy
loss. On reaching her I found that he had buried
a man the evening before, and that the symptoms
under Vi^hich he had died had been the same as
those of Captain Harries, and had shown them-
selves at the same time.

I found that King Boy was expected the fol-
lowing day. In the course of the day I dis-
covered that the worthy character who com-
manded the Susan had been offering high wages
to my men ; and as I did not wish to force any
man up the river against his will, I mustered the
crew, and informed them that the Susan was in
want of hands ; that the man in command of her,
as they well knew, had been offering them very
high wages ; and that if any of them wished to
leave the Quorra, they were perfectly at liberty
to do so. I found that I had not been mistaken
in my calculations on the spirit of British seamen,
for only two accepted the offer.*

* I need scarcely say, that when the awful mortality took
place afterwards, it was most consolatory to my mind tliat I
had adopted this measure — one which I would recommend to
any person under similar circumstances.

PREPARATIONS FOR ASCENDING THE RIVER. 69

The 211st of October was our first Sabbath in
the Niger, and Mr. Jordan read the usual pray-
ers. Mr. Lander came on board, and I was glad
to hear from him that he had recovered his
journal from the commander of the Susan. I
wished very much to see it, as the daily journal
of his adventurous voyage down the Niger from
Boussa must have been very interesting; but
unfortunately he had not brought it with
him, and I could never afterwards get a sight
of it.

At daylight on the 22lnd, we commenced break-
ing out the main hold, preparatory to lightening
the vessel of all superfluous stores before proceed-
ing up the river. We had been frequently an-
noyed during the passage out by a disagreeable
vapour that came from the hold, and we now
found that it had been occasioned by the cocoa
being stowed in bags in the provision-room under
the cabin : the bags had rotted, and the cocoa
had fallen into the bilge-water, and there become
putrid. This I am of opinion was the principal
cause of the unhealthiness of the after part of the
vessel, — the two fatal cases of fever having oc-
curred in the poop, and no severe cases in the

70 PREPARATIONS FOR ASCENDING THE RIVER.

forecastle, where the men are much more crowded
together.

On the 23rd, the celebrated King Boy, the same
who had ransomed Mr. Lander and his brother,
and conveyed them down the river from Eboe,
came from Brass Town and paid a visit to his
old acquaintance. We were busily engaged in
receiving goods from the Columbine, and in tran-
shipping into her all our spare sails, &c. Mr.
Lander assured me that there was no necessity for
taking any salt provisions up the river, as we
should get abundance before we reached Eboe.
However, I thought it but prudent to take with
us a supply for three months, in case of any mis-
understanding with the natives, although he as-
signed two months as the utmost limit for our
passage to and from the upper country. Mr.
Lander was also of opinion that sufficient ivory
would be obtained in that time to load one of the
steamers ; but from the conversation which I had
had with Mr. M'Lean at Cape Coast, although I
wished he might be right, I could not help doubt-
ing it very much.

The weather since we entered the river had
been anything but favourable for our operations :
it had rained almost incessantly, which was very

KINGS FORDAY AND BOY. 71

trying to the men. My plan was to give them as
much coffee as they liked to drink, and they ap-
peared to be all in good health and spirits. Mr.
Hector, our purser, also, who had been taken ill
at Liberia, was now fast recovering.

By the 26th we had completed our arrange-
ments for ascending the river, and had reduced
the draft of the Quorra to five feet three inches.
I was given to understand that King Boy in-
tended to accompany us to Eboe.

At two in the afternoon we were under weigh,
and advanced up the river to King Boy's barra-
coon, or slave-hut, situated about nine miles dis-
tant from the bar. Here I was introduced to
King Forday and King Boy, both ill-looking
fellows, but uncommonly civil. The latter was
dressed in a Highland uniform, which had been
sent out to him by my father : it consisted of a
red coat, full-dress kilt, red stockings, and yellow
slippers ; the whole surmounted by a military
hat, with a feather in it about a yard long. But
he had a disagreeable, sulky cast of countenance ;
and with all his protestations of friendship, and
expressions of readiness to serve us in any way,
I was too much of a disciple of Lavater to trust
him.

72 ' SWAMPY COUNTRY.

There were two men with them who professed
to know the channel of the river to Eboe. By
their account there were from three to eight fa-
thoms the whole distance. One of them, named
Louis, appeared to be an intelligent fellow ; but I
did not exactly like the look of the other. He
asked me how much water my vessel drew: to
which I replied, two fathoms; but that, having
wheels, we could go as well upon land as
water ; which piece of information he receiv-
ed apparenly with the most praiseworthy cre-
dulity.

The country on both sides of the river appear-
ed to be one extensive swamp, covered with
mangrove, cabbage, and palm trees, and must no
doubt be very unhealthy. The fen-damp rose in
the mornings cold and clammy to the feeling,
and in appearance more like the smoke of a
damp wood fire than anything I could compare
it with. It was my practice, immediately the
men left their hammocks, to give them a cup of
strong coffee. I had awnings stretched fore and
aft since we entered the river, to protect them
from the ill effects of the dews and exhalations.
We had also raised a canvass screen fore and aft
as high as the paddle-boxes, that, in case of being

EFFECTS OF CLIMATE.. 73

attacked, the natives might not be able to take
their aim.

It was a subject of remark among us, and
occasioned some amusement, to see the different
effects of heat on different constitutions. Some-
times, with the thermometer at 84, I felt cold in
a blanket dress; and at other times,-when it was
75, I was oppressed with the heat : — it appeared,
however, to depend much on the moist or dry
state of the atmosphere. I found that a very
simple rule had hitherto kept me in excellent
health : if I felt sleepy after a meal, I considered
it a gentle hint from my stomach that I was over-
working it, and reduced my fare accordingly; — in
fact, I thought that the less one consumed the
better, as all our party appeared to have a most
unaccountable propensity to become fat. I did
not eat one half that I had been accustomed to
do in England, and yet could not keep myself
from increasing. Dr. Briggs was precisely in the
same way ; and as for Lander, he was as broad
as he was long.

The natives of this part of the river appeared
to be very unhealthy. They were covered with
scabs, ulcers, and guinea-worms, and all kinds of
cutaneous eruptions, which I was inclined to as-

74 CHASE OF A BLACK FISH.

cribe to their mode of living. They sleep gene-
rally in the open air, they drink vast quantities
of spirits of the very worst description, and their
principal diet consists of various kinds of fish,
from the alligator to ground-sharks. The whole
country seemed deluged with water, and the mi-
serable wretches that dwell in it, are depend-
ent on the Eboe country for their subsistence :
all their yams, bananas, plantains, and cassada
are derived from thence.

We were much amused by a spirited chase
which took place in the river here. A black fish,
about thirty feet long, came in over the bar; and
the moment he was perceived, off started a dozen
canoes full of black fellows after him. They soon
got hold of him with their harpoons, and after a
spirited contest of two hours, in which the whole
river thereabout was in an uproar with the upset-
ting of the canoes, the squalling and swimming
of the natives, and the tugging and buffeting of
these fellows and the fish, they at length succeed-
ed in landing him. Their harpoons are about
eight feet long, are loaded at the end, and are
thrown with considerable force and accuracy.

In the evening I made a grand fetish, or
charm, which was to ensure King Boy success

MEDITATED TREACHERY. 75

against all his enemies. The process was merely
dressing the vessel with blue lights and firing
a few sky-rockets ; in consequence of which the
Quorra was always afterwards called the fetish
ship, and I found great difficulty in getting any
of the natives to venture on board till I had
passed Eboe.

On the 27th, we were busy in our preparations
for going up the river. The black pilot that
had been placed on board the Alburkah by
King Boy informed Mr. Lander that he had
been desired by the king to take us up a branch
of the river that was full of shoals, and, if possi-
ble, to run us aground. In consequence of this
information, Mr. Lander went up in the Alburkah
to examine the branch said by the pilot to be
most eligible. It proved to have from two to
three fathoms water in it, and, although narrow,
was free from shoals. Both Boy and his father,
Forday, were greatly enraged on our determin-
ing to attempt this channel, which, in my opi-
nion, proved that they were meditating trea-
chery. They both departed in high dudgeon,
but promised to be on board by cock-crow the
next morning.

On the morning of the 28th, however, the

76 CONTINUE UP THE RIVER.

cock did crow, and they had not made their ap-
pearance. We therefore commenced the ascent
of the river without them, following the track
of the Alburkah at the distance of a few hun-
dred yards, in order to have sufficient time to
stop or reverse the engine, in case the Alburkah
met with any shoal or hidden danger, as she
drew so much less water than the Quorra.

Immediately above King Boy's barracoon the
river divides into several wide and shallow
branches, the principal one leading to the east-
ward to Brass Town and Bonny. That which our
pilot conducted us through appeared at first to be
most unlikely to lead to the magnificent stream we
were fast approaching : it ran about N.W., and for
about half a mile was not more than thirty yards
wide, with an average depth of about two fathoms,
after which we found ourselves in comparatively
more open water. The navigation for the first
ten miles was difficult and dangerous, and I
must confess that I was not without suspicions
of the pilot's intentions, particularly when I found
that he took us through a channel in which there
was only a depth of eight feet. This, however,
proved to be only a bar of mud ; for, directly
after we had passed it, we had two and a half,

MANGROVE TREES. 77

and three fathoms ; and in gratitude to our
pilot, we named this narrow channel Louis
Creek.

We had proceeded about thirty miles up the
river before we saw anything like land or even
mud, the mangroves only marking the channel.
Afterwards the banks began to appear and as-
sumed a more decided character, the man-
groves* being no longer seen, — thus showing
the limits of the tide. We also discovered some
barracoons erected on cleared spots on the banks
for the shelter of the canoe-men and their car-
goes, as we supposed, on their passage to the
Eboe country.

At four in the afternoon we passed some mi-
serable-looking huts tenanted by as miserable-
looking men. Mr. Lander landed and made
them a few presents. We continued under
steam until seven in the evening, and I con-
sidered made good a distance of about forty-
five miles in a northerly direction. The river
had now increased in breadth, which averaged
about three hundred yards, with a depth from

* This beautiful but deadly tree does not grow in fresh
water. See Humboldt, who supposes that it gives out a pe-
culiar and dangerous exhalation.

78 DEFENSIVE POSTURE OF THE NATIVES.

four to five fathoms. We passed thirteen
branches or creeks running from it, one of
which leads to Brass Town, and is the same
that Mr. Lander and his brother passed through.
We now considered ourselves to be fairly on
the Niger, and felt that we had much reason
to be thankful for having escaped the plot laid
by King Boy for our destruction.

In the morning of the 29th we were under
weigh soon after four, and found that the river
continued to deepen, but the banks were still
low and swampy. The course of it was very
serpentine, varying from north-west to north-
east and east, and sometimes to the southward
of east. We passed several small villages sur-
rounded with cocoa-nut trees and plantations of
bananas and plantains : in fact, wherever there
appeared solid ground it was crowded with huts.
The inhabitants all mustered in front of their
houses armed with muskets, and seemed, though
alarmed, ready to defend their homes. At
seven a.m. we passed a branch running to the
south-west ; and the river immediately widened
to six or seven hundred yards, and deepened to
ten fathoms. The reaches were longer, and

ANCHOR OFF INGHIRAMI. 79

the banks frequently covered with long grass
a few feet from the river.

At twelve we anchored off a small town called
Inghirami. King Boy in his canoe came up
immediately after we had anchored. The chief,
who for a small present had consented to sup-
ply the vessels with wood, would now do
nothing, evidently from Boy's representations.
I must say I felt very much inclined to sink
him ; his presence, I was sure, foreboded no
good.

We remained at anchor off this village till
the 30th getting wood : and here I found the
full value of our Kroomen ; they were capital
axemen, and cut in a day about one day's fuel
for the engine. I rejoiced that Captain Harries
had decided on shipping these men, as the na-
tives which Mr. Lander had brought from Cape
Coast were useless for this sort of work.

I had here only two of my crew slightly in-
disposed, and was entertaining hopes that we
should get into the upper country before any
sickness visited us, the weather being fine, with
a few occasional showers. The thermometer
(Fahrenheit) varied from 80 to 83. In the af-

80 FRESH ATTEMPTS AT TREACHERY.

ternoon I sounded across the river and found
an average depth of five and a half fathoms
within two yards of both banks, the breadth
being about five hundred yards. I concluded
from this that we should find no more shallow
water unless the river spread out. The water
was perfectly fresh here, although it was in-
fluenced by the tide, the rise and fall being
about four feet. In the course of a walk on
shore with Dr. Briggs, I purchased a goat of
Lilliputian dimensions.

As we were getting under weigh on the following
morning. King Boy was particularly anxious that
we should stop at a village which he pointed out.
There was something peculiar in his anxiety to
get us to stop at several places in the afternoon,
and I thought it not unlikely that we should fall
into trouble soon. Indeed the busy, pertinacious
conduct of this fellow kept me on the alert in
meeting his manoeuvres, and I felt a great desire
to seize on his person and keep him on board the
vessel until our return. Certainly, in the event
of any mischief occurring, I was determined that
if he were within reach he should be the first to
suffer.

The course of the river varied from N.E.

ACCIDENT TO AUTHOR. 81

to S.E., and once to south half east, the depth
being from seven to eight fathoms. We passed
in the course of the day two considerable streams
running into, and two running out of, the main
river. The country improved considerably in
its aspect also. The splendid African oak and
wild cotton trees appeared on the banks.

On stepping down from the paddle-box this
morning, I ran the spike of the chevaux-de-frise
through my foot. It was Dr. Briggs's opinion
that the sheath of the tendon was injured, which
a little quiet would soon set to rights. I adopted
my favourite plan of starving to keep down in-
flammation. We continued under steam until
nine in the evening, but found it difficult to work
in the dark.

We started again at six in the morning of the
1st of November, and found the river in one
reach lying to the west of south. In the after-
noon, one of the crew, a boy, was taken ill with
an attack of ague. In the course of the day we
had a visit from the chiefs of two villages that we
passed. One of them was an intelligent fellow,
and complained bitterly of the Brass people not
allowing him to take his palm-oil either to
Bonny or the Nun. He presented me with two

VOL. T. G

82 NEWS OF HOSTILITIES.

goats and some plantains in return for a few
things which I gave him, and had the honour of
drinking the King's health in pure Jamaica, to
his infinite delight. I learnt from this fellow that
the Brass people take their palm-oil ; but, from
his account, what they give them for it is about
one-fourth of what they charge ships for it in the
Rivers Nun and Bonny.

King Boy kept at a respectful distance astern
of us to-day ; and it was only now and then, at
the end of a long reach, that we caught a glimpse
of his flag. At eight in the evening, our fuel
being expended, I came to an anchor.

The crew had gone to rest, and I was making
myself comfortable in my berth, when, at about
half-past ten at night, a canoe came alongside,
and a note was brought to me from Mr. Lander
by the pilot Louis. It was briefly as follows : —
" M'Gregor Laird, Esq.

" Sir, — The Eboes threaten to attack us to-
morrow. I would thank you to have everything
in readiness to resent an attack of whatever na-
ture it may be. Your obedient servant,

" R. Lander.

" P. S. They say we shall not pass this place,
although there are not ten houses in the town."

ENGAGEMENT WITH THE NATIVES. 83

The postscript was not of a very alarming na-
ture ; but, without disturbing the crew, I called
Dr. Briggs, got all the muskets and pistols loaded,
and packed the cartridge-boxes. While we were
thus employed, we heard the report of several
shots, and on going on deck observed the whole
bush on our left, which was the right bank of
the river and about seventy yards from us, in a
blaze of musketry, which the Alburkah was re-
turning. Mr. Lander hailed me and said he was
going to drop down the river ; but on my offering
to go between him and the fire, he sent Louis, the
Eboe pilot, on board. We immediately got un-
der weigh, and the pilot placed the Quorra within
pistol-shot abreast of the town. I was much
amused by the coolness and self-possession of this
pilot. He could speak tolerable English ; so I
told him, if he ran us aground, the instant the
vessel touched I would blow his brains out. The
fellow laughed, and opening his country cloth,
showed me the butt-end of two pistols ; a gentle
hint that two could play at that game. I gave
directions for the guns to be loaded with round
and canister, and in about twenty minutes we
silenced the firing on shore. At our first fire
the eighteen-pound carronade strated the ring-

G 2

84 ENGAGEMENT WITH THE NATIVES.

bolt of its breeching and was unfortunately dis-
abled for the night At one o'clock, the firing
having ceased excepting an occasional shot from
the bush, I sent all the men to their beds and
remained on deck. I was much pleased by the
cool and steady behaviour of my men in this
affair : Captain Harries having exercised them
on the voyage out, they worked the guns with
great facility and accuracy.

At daylight of the following day (the 2lnd) the
firing from the bush recommenced, and I now
discovered that our invisible enemies (for we
hardly saw one) had two swivels. The Quorra
opened her fire on the town at six o'clock with
four four-pounders and the twenty-four-pound
swivel ; but finding that we made no impression
on the mud-walls of the huts, although we had
silenced the firing, Mr. Lander hailed us, and
we agreed to land and burn the town as an ex-
ample to the rest. Accordingly the gig under
my command led the way ; Captain Miller in the
cutter followed, and also the launch with eight
men ; while the two mates, engineers, and Dr.
Briggs were left to keep up a fire of musketry
over our heads.

As soon as we had reached within half pistol-

A VILLAGE BURNT. 85

shot of the bank, the firing from the bush and
the town recommenced ; on which our lads, giving
three cheers, pulled for the bank, where we in-
tended to land. The bank was of mud, about six
feet high, and on my first jump on shore, I found
myself up to my knees in it; but seizing the boat-
swain of the Quorra, a remarkably stout fellow,
he quickly extricated me, and we gained the
top of the bank. The natives had been annoy-
ing us with musketry all this time, although
they had done no harm ; but as soon as they saw
our heads above the bank, they retreated to the
morass behind their huts. I had much difficulty
in keeping the men from following them into the
bush : however, after setting fire to the roofs of
the huts, I succeeded in getting them into their
boats again. The Alburkah's boat with Mr.
Lander had been detained, and having a strong
current to pull against, did not join in the attack,
but came up immediately afterwards. On leav-
ing the town, I was surprised at the sudden re-
appearance of the inhabitants, who commenced
firing on the boats, uttering at the same time
loud yells. I had returned to the Quorra, when
I perceived one of the Alburkah's men standing
under the bank on a narrow edge of mud. In

86 FRIENDLY RECEPTION.

the hurry of re-embarking he had been left
ashore. I pulled back in the gig and took him
off; but we had a narrow escape, and it was
merely owing to the form of the bank and the
gallant behaviour of our Kroomen that we got
clear off. By my directions, the Kroomen in
the launch kept up a brisk fire, under which I
pulled in and recovered the man, notwithstand-
ing the natives were firing away within a few
paces of us. On mustering the crew, I was
glad to find no one hurt; which was easily
accounted for, as the natives fire always from
the hip and never take aim from the shoulder.
The boats and oars had been hit in many
places.

At nine we proceeded up the river, after get-
ting up our anchors, and came to again off a vil-
lage about three miles above our last anchorage.
We were received here with open arms by the
chief, who was delighted at hearing that we had
been destroying his neighbours.

The next morning we were informed by the
natives that three men had been killed in the
skirmish, and four badly wounded ; the latter
having been brought to the village opposite by
their friends. Dr. Briggs immediately volun-

CAUSE OF THE UNFORTUNATE AFFAIR. 87

teered to go on shore and visit these men, and
endeavour, if possible, to alleviate their suffering.
On his landing, however, the natives denied that
they were there, perhaps from fear, — or there
might have been no truth in the report.

This unfortunate affair was much to be regret-
ted, as it appeared to have arisen entirely from
the misconception of the natives. The Alburkah
had anchored off the town in the dark, and had
fired a gun as a signal to the Quorra that she
had done so. The natives imagined that it had
been fired at them, and, on the Eboe pilot land-
ing in a canoe, they attempted to seize him. He
escaped from them, however, and regained his
canoe ; and they fired on him as he paddled off to
the Alburkah. It did not appear to have been a
preconcerted plan, as no canoes had passed us on
the river, and there is no communication by land ;
so that they could not have been previously in-
formed of the time of our arrival. On these
grounds I acquitted King Boy in my own mind,
although at first I strongly suspected him of
having been concerned in the attack.

Although the natives said that we had killed
several, I did not believe it, as the suddenness of
our landing would have prevented their carrying

88 PRESENTS TO SEVERAL CHIEFS.

off their killed or wounded, and we saw no ap-
pearance of either ; and I am in great hopes that
the expenditure was confined to powder alone.
In the course of the day we were visited by the
chiefs of several villages, who, having heard of
our burning the village, came to congratulate us
on having destroyed the greatest fetish or charm
depot between the sea and Eboe ; and to secure
our friendship, they all brought us presents, and
received others in return. A soldier's jacket was
the utmost of their wishes, and afforded us re-
peatedly much amusement. On receiving it, the
first thing they did, of course, was to squeeze
themselves into it, which, being all of them men
on an immense scale, they had no little difficulty
to manage. However, having achieved it, the
air with which they walked to the side of the
vessel to show themselves to their admiring sub-
jects was highly entertaining ; whilst these ex-
pressed their delight by loud yells of appro-
bation.

At six in the evening we were under weigh,
having several of these chiefs on board, whom we
dropped abreast of their respective villages, and
continued steaming up the river until half-past
two on the morning of the 4th, it being a fine

THE WARREE BRANCH. 89

moonlight night until that time. At six in the
morning we were again under weigh, and at nine
A. M. passed a magnificent branch about 700
yards wide, running off to the south-west. On
crossing the mouth of it we found a depth of six,
seven, and eight fathoms. I conclude this to
be the main branch of the Niger, and that the
mouth of it is that known in the maps as the
Rio Forcados or Warree, which falls into the
Bight of Benin in latitude 5° 28' N. The cur-
rent is stronger in it and it is a deeper river
than the Nun branch, up which we had passed.
If this opinion be correct, a vessel ascending this
branch from the sea will save a considerable dis-
tance, and avoid the Brass country entirely.

On passing this branch the river immediately
increased its breadth to one thousand yards, the
reaches became longer, the banks higher, and
the bush that crowned them was more frequently
interspersed with plantations of bananas, plan-
tains, and yams. It afforded me much satisfac-
tion to find that my crew continued healthy, —
the boy who had had a slight fit of ague was quite
recovered ; and whether it was the change of
scene or not, since we had entered the river the
whole crew had gradually recovered their health

90 TOWN OF EGGABO.

and spirits, both of which had suffered in the
voyage down the coast.

At three p. m. we came to an anchor off a
small town on the west bank of the river, nam-
ed Eggabo, our wood being entirely expended.
This town was the first which I had seen, the
houses of which stood at a distance from the
river. All the towns we had passed hitherto
were built on long strips of the bank, extending
by the river-side, with a morass in their rear.
The sight of this was gratifying to us, as we
thought it a promise that we were shortly about
to exchange the low swampy banks of the river
for something like terra firma.

On the following day, I accompanied Dr.
Briggs on shore, and found the town contained
about two hundred houses, each surrounded by a
bamboo fence about nine feet high. On these
bamboos were hung a vast quantity of yams with
their largest heads downwards, the position in
which the natives preserve them. We paid our
respects to the king, who received us very cor-
dially. He was a disgusting old fellow to look
at, being covered with a cutaneous eruption, and
apparently in the last stage of dropsy, his legs
being swollen to an immense size. Mr. Lander

KING BOY AND HIS WIVES. 91

had presented him with a soldier's jacket, of
which he was vastly proud ; and, jealous of his
splendid acquisition, he besought us not to be-
stow such a present on his neighbour on the op-
posite bank of the river.

The latitude of this village is 5" SV N.

In the afternoon, I landed on a sandbank on
the opposite side of the river, to try the range of
some one-pound Congreve rockets, which Mr.
M'Lean had presented to me at Cape Coast. I
found here our old friend King Boy in his canoe,
in which he had stowed away four of his wives,
two of whom were dressed in Guernsey frocks,
a third in a soldier's jacket, and the fourth,
who was the best-looking, in her own inimit-
able glossy dress which nature had bestowed on
her, freshly polished and shining with palm-oil.
This damsel was yet but thirteen years old, accord-
ing to Boy's account ; who told me a long story of
the number of muskets and pieces of cloth which
he had given for her, and concluded it with a
sigh, adding, " She no be fat enough for two
moons yet," although she was, at least, fourteen
stone weight. While this interesting history was
related, the lovely creatures, grinning and show-
ing their beautiful teeth, were softly ejaculating

92 MISSION FROM KING OBIE,

" Rum and tabac." Such a request, coming from
such lips, was perfectly irresistible, and they ac-
companied us alongside of the Quorra for it, but
could not be prevailed on to come on board.
However, they enjoyed the *' rum and tabac" to
their hearts' content in their canoe. Boy in-
formed me, with much earnestness, that he had
been several times robbed at the town which we
had attacked, and that the trading canoes always
passed it in the night. He also gave me to un-
derstand, that accounts of us had reached Eboe,
and that a good '' palaver" would come down
the river to meet us to-morrow.

On the following morning, in accordance with
Boy's prediction, we were agreeably surprised by
the appearance of three large Eboe canoes, each
paddled by forty men, coming down the river
with flags flying. This was the " palaver " which
Boy had announced, consisting, as we found,
of two chiefs with their attendants, whom King
Obie had despatched to meet and welcome us
into his country. They remained on board the
Alburkah for a few hours, and then left to pro-
ceed and give notice of our approach to Eboe,
about twenty miles distant. They said that
King Obie was to present us on our arrival with

REACH EBOE. 93

two bullocks, ten goats, and six hundred yams,
for which, like all the rest of the kings who have
made us presents, he will, I presume, receive
double their value in return.

Having completed our supply of wood, we
got under weigh at six p.m. having a fine moon-
light night before us ; but getting into shoal
water, we came to an anchor again at ten, about
five miles below Eboe, while the Alburkah pro-
ceeded. Shortly afterwards Captain Hill came
on board the Quorra, saying that they had found
deeper water on the left bank of the river, and
that the Alburkah had come to an anchor oflp the
town. At six on the following morning we got
under weigh, and in half an hour joined her at
the entrance of the creek that leads up to the
town.

94 VISIT TO

CHAPTER IV.

Visit to King Ohie. — Tlie Palaver. — The Visit returned. —
A Female of Eboe. — Description of Obie. — The Town
of Eboe described. — Its produce. — The Delta of the Niger.
— Its Inhabitants and their Occupations. — Oil-making and
Slave-hunting compared.

Preparations were now commenced for our
visit to King Obie. The launch and other boats
were manned by Kroomen, dressed in kilts and
velvet caps, an uniform expressly intended for
gala-days ; and at 10 a. m. we proceeded on shore
in state to pay our respects to the king. Mr.
Lander in a general's uniform, with a feather in
his cocked-hat that almost reached the ground,
Mr. Jordan in a colonel's uniform, and Lieutenant
Allen in his own, led the van, and attracted so
much of the natives' attention, that Dr. Briggs
and myself almost regretted that we had not
visited Monmouth-street before our departure
from England.

Preceded by old Pascoe, Jowdie, and some

KING ORIE. 95

other men who had accompanied Mr. Lander on
his former journey, and who were now returning
in triumph to the scene of their former exploits,
dressed in soldiers' jackets and military caps,
blowing trumpets and beating drums, accompa-
nied by King Boy and about forty Eboe canoes
emulating them in their discordant noises, wc
advanced up the narrow creek more like merry-
andrews than sensible people ; and after a row of
about three quarters of a mile, in one of the
hottest days I ever experienced, we landed at the
upper end of the town amongst a great assemblage
of people of both sexes. From our landing we
had still more than half a mile to walk, sur-
rounded by a mob of about a thousand people
armed with all manner of muskets, spears, cut-
lasses, bayonets and knives fastened on the ends
of poles. The heat of the weather and the
stench of the place were quite overpowering; and
the natives' pressing round us to touch the skin
of a white man required the exercise of all our
good temper and forbearance to withstand.

On arriving at the royal residence we passed
through two outer courts, each about twenty
yards square, and were ushered into a smaller
one, three sides of which had projecting roofs

96 INTERVIEW WITH

supported by rudely-carved pillars. The other
formed the women's apartment, and through the
doorway half-a-dozen faces were visible. These
we understood were Obie's favourite wives. On
one side of the court, under the roof, stood Obie's
throne, covered by a grass mat of most elegant
manufacture ; and under the opposite verandah
was an upright loom, with an unfinished web of
grass cloth.

After waiting about ten minutes, a side door
opened, and in rushed Obie, a tall man with a
pleasing countenance, dressed in scarlet cloth.
He wore a cap made of pipe coral on his head,
much the same shape as the fool's cap of our
schools ; and thirty or forty chains of very large
pieces of coral were passed round his neck and
loins. He had on also a great number of arm-
lets and leglets of the same article ; indeed, I
should say he had nearly one hundred pounds'
value of coral on him. Poor Jordan was the
first he saw, and rushing upon him, at once he
gave him a most fraternal hug ; then shaking
hands with Lander and myself, he took his seat
on the throne, placing us on each side of him.

The interview lasted about a quarter of an

KING OBIE. 97

hour, and I was much struck with the gentle-
manly and agreeable manner of Obie. The term
'gentlemanly' may appear misapplied to an untu-
tored African negro ; but King Obie displayed
towards us the very essence of gentility, in the
most lively attention to our wants and comforts.*
After the conference he accompanied us to the
boats, walking familiarly with his arm round Mr.
Lander's neck. I could not help being amused
with Boy's conduct during our interview. This
man never spoke to Obie without going down on
his knees, and touching the ground with his head.
Boy walked down to the boat with me; and on
my joking him on his abject behaviour, he,
courtier-like, replied, "King Obie too much palm-
oil. King Boy too little." We embarked in our
boats, and on quitting the landing-place there
could not have been less than between two and
three thousand people present : we gave them
three cheers, and they, with their monarch at
their head, heartily returned them. Although
much gratified by the kind and cordial reception
we had met with, I was glad to get on board my

* I found afterwards that he was equally attentive to us
in distress.

VOL. I. H

98 INDUSTRY OF THE INHABITANTS.

own vessel, being completely worn out with the
heat, and disgusted with the stench of the town.
We received from King Obie a fine bullock, five
goats, and three hundred yams ; and two of his
sons, both of them fine young men about sixteen
years of age, accompanied us on board.

On the following morning, the 8th, we all of
us felt the effects of our roasting in the sun ; and
the little rest which we got during the night,
from the torments of sand-flies and mosquitoes,
who no doubt considered our arrival as a treat,
did not tend to promote our recovery. At day-
break I was much pleased to see a fleet of canoes
of all sizes leaving the town for the purpose of
collecting palm-oil, yams, and other provisions,
for it gave an assurance of the regular and indus-
trious habits of the people. There could not
have been less than from one hundred to one
hundred and fifty ; and in the evening they came
dropping in with their cargoes of yams, bananas,
and palm-oil in large gourds. It was the most
gratifying proof of regular and honest industry
that I had yet seen in Africa.

At one p. M. we fired a royal salute in honour
of King Obie, who went on board the Alburkah

KING OBIE'S visit TO MR. LANDER. 99

to visit Mr. Lander. He was escorted by seven
vrar-canoeSj each containing between sixty and
seventy men, and about fifty others containing
from one to fifty persons in each. He dined with
Mr. Lander, having brought six of his women to
fan the company during the repast ; and remained
on board until four in the afternoon, when he
landed under a salute from the Alburkah. I had
allowed one half of the Quorra's crew liberty to
go on shore with the second mate. They met
him as he landed, and he instantly set to and em-
braced them all in their turn. He was afterwards
supported to his palace by two of the sailors,
where he regaled them with palm-wine and
roasted yams. The first mate and the engineer
of the Quorra had been on shore the day before,
and were treated in the same way : in fact, all
the natives were vying with each other in paying
them attention.

Among my visitors on this day was the largest
woman I ever beheld — and a jolly good-tempered
dame she was. On thanking her and making
her a small present for the attention which she
had shown my men while on shore, she assur-
ed me that " her belly had long been hungry to

H 2

100 A FEMALE OF EBOE.

see white men and their houses," and that she
had come alongside to see the interior of mine.
I would very willingly have got the old lady on
board, had the foreyard been strong enough ; —
as it was, she was obliged to content herself with
a peep through the cabin windows. She cer-
tainly could not have weighed less than twenty-
five stone, and she informed me that she was
mistress of more than two hundred slaves, whom
she employed in collecting palm-oil, cultivating
yams, &c. Her personal charms were set off by
a straw-hat nearly five feet in diameter, about
a dozen brass bracelets, two ivory leglets ten
inches wide by about six deep, and necklaces
innumerable. I promised her on leaving us
to visit her on the following day, and was fully
determined to do so.

Accordingly, on the 9th, at seven in the
morning, I landed with Dr. Briggs, to pay a visit
to my fat friend, and to have a look at the town.
We found the lady at home, surrounded by her
women, and had a long conversation with her, as
we found her an intelligent, clever woman. We
learned that she owned several canoes, which she
employed trading on the river, both above and
below Eboe. After staying some time with her.

VISIT TO KING OBIE. 101

we paid Obie a morning visit, and were kindly
received by him. He showed us his favourite
wife, a fine woman of about sixteen, and jet-black,
which I agree with him is preferable to any of
the intermediate shades. Her apartment was
remarkably clean, and the walls of it were lined
with matting. Obie himself is a particularly
handsome man; he stands above six feet high,
has a prominent nose and oval face, good eyes,
and a pleasing expression of countenance, com-
bining intelligence with good-nature. I asked
him the distance from Brass Town and Benin :
his answer was. Brass Town, seven days ; Benin,
four days. From his fondness for coral orna-
ments, I should imagine him to be of Benin
extraction : he is certainly of a very superior
breed to any we have yet met with. After a long
conversation, in which he naturally expressed his
surprise that we were not going to trade with
him for palm-oil, he presented us with a fowl
and some plantains, and we took our leave highly
pleased with our visit. Obie is decidedly the
most intelligent black man I have yet met with,
and far superior to those on the coast. On our
return through the town, we met a representation
of the devil, (white of course,) carrying before

102 EBOE AND ITS INHABITANTS.

him a human skull covered with blood, and fol-
lowed by a mob of about a hundred fellows armed
with all manner of instruments, from a musket
to a penknife. His Satanic Majesty was particu-
larly civil to us : perhaps, being of the same colour,
he looked on us as his brethren.

The town of Eboe stands by the side of a creek
running parallel with the Niger, and in the
flooded season communicating with it at both
ends. On a rough estimate, the town consists
of eight hundred to a thousand houses ; and al-
lowing on an average six people to a house, will
give the amount of population, two-thirds at
least of which may be considered as under four-
teen years of age. The inhabitants are the most
enterprising and industrious traders on the Ni-
ger.* The town itself with its immediate vici-
nity is unhealthy, owing to the swampy nature
of the ground : we found but few old people of
either sex, and a great number of young men
who appeared debilitated and aged.

The staple trade of Eboe consists of slaves
and palm-oil. The value of the former varies
according to the demand on the coast ; but the

* As a proof of which, I may state that 1 have met with
them as hisjrh as Fundah.

PRODUCE OF EBOE. 103

average value of a lad of sixteen may be taken at
sixty shillings, and that of a woman at something
more.

Palm-oil is produced in immense quantities
about Eboe, and is collected in small gourds,
each capable of containing from two to four gal-
lons, from which it is emptied into trade pun-
cheons. Some of these, belonging to vessels in
the Bonny, I saw in canoes at Eboe ; but, gene-
rally, the gourds are taken in large canoes to a
market-place on the Bonny branch of the Niger ;
which branch being dry in the dry season, the
Eboe oil then finds its way through the Brass
creek to the Bonny. As I did not purchase any
oil at Eboe, I cannot with accuracy give the
price ; but I consider it may be procured in any
quantities there at four pounds per ton. Little
ivory passes through Eboe, the greater part
going overland to Lagos and Whydah, or down
the Bonny creek or Benin branch, both of which
flow out of the Niger above the town. If a regu-
lar trade were established with Obie, (and no man
can be more anxious for it,) I have little doubt
that he would soon stop up those channels, and mo-
nopolise and concentrate the trade. No man has
greater power to do this than he has, situated as

104 RIVER NUN.

he is at the head of the three great outlets of the
Niger, — the Benin, the Bonny, and the Nun.

Between the head of these outlets and the
sea, a distance of one hundred and sixty miles, is
the delta of the Niger, which delta extends from
Lagos on the west to Old Calebar on the east.
Through this delta its waters are discharged into
the ocean by twenty-two mouths, the principal
of which are the Benin, Warree, Nun, Bonny,
and Old Calebar.* The Nun branch is the only
one yet explored, and a general description of it
may not be misplaced here.

The course of the Nun branch between the
sea and Eboe is exceedingly serpentine ; but its
mean course from Eboe to the sea is south half-
west by compass. Its breadth varies from
thirty yards at the entrance, or Louis Creek,
as we named it, to one thousand or twelve
hundred at Eboe, gradually widening as it nears
its parent stream. An astonishing number of
branches of all sizes flow out of it, the larger
ones all in a south-west direction ; and on exa-

* Perhaps Old Calebar should not be called a mouth of
the Niger, although communicating with it, as it most pro-
bably receives a great portion of its water from the east-
ward.

INHABITANTS ON ITS BANKS. 105

mining the chart, five large rivers, more or less
navigable, will be found between the Benin and
the Nun rivers. The branches to the eastward
are all of them small, being only navigable by
canoes, and intersect the country in all direc-
tions, forming a labyrinth whose windings and
extent we are fortunately not required to ex-
plore. The whole of this country within the
influence of salt water is covered by mangroves,
and above the influence of the tide by a dense
mass of vegetation, principally composed of va-
rieties of the palm species. Its population is
scanty, and confined to the banks of the princi-
pal streams, which from the force of their cur-
rent in some places throw up a bank of sufficient
consistency to support the mud-huts of the na-
tives ; and wherever this is the case, the bank
is crowned by a village containing from one
hundred to one thousand inhabitants. The total
population between Eboe and the sea on the line
of the Nun branch does not exceed four thou-
sand adults, if so much. The women and chil-
dren are employed in collecting palm-oil ; the
men, in trading to Brass and Eboe, kidnapping
their neighbours, and drinking the worst de-
scription of spirits.

106 BANKS OF THE NUN.

The sovereignty of the river belongs to the
most powerful for the time being. The chief of
a village of one hundred inhabitants may and
does war with that of his neighbours on the oppo-
site bank of three times the amount of popula-
tion. But theirs are bloodless wars — a human
being is too valuable to be shot ; he is caught and
expires in the hold of some slave-ship, or, after
the purgatory of a voyage, becomes the blessed
inhabitant of that negro paradise which, if we
believe a sugar-planter, is only to be found in a
cane plantation.

The collection of palm-oil is lazily and indo-
lently followed. The trouble of catching a man
is trifling — that of manufacturing a ton of oil
trifling still, but considerably more ; the price of
both is about the same : can it be wondered at,
then, that the production of oil does not increase
more rapidly ? It is some matter of surprise to me
that where there is such a brisk demand for slaves
it is manufactured at all. The capture of a man
partakes of the exhilarating nature of a hunt,
while the collection of palm-oil is devoid of ex-
citement, and becomes the sober tedium of busi-
ness : this affords nothing to satiate the appetite

SLAVE-HUNTING. 107

for cruelty common to man in his natural uncivi-
lised state — that affords him ample gratification,
for slave-hunting is pre-eminently cruel. Of all
the baits which have been employed by the great
tempter of mankind, that of buying and selling
flesh and blood has been the most subtle and suc-
cessful ; and if it has triumphed over the minds
of enlightened and conscientious men in our own
country, can we wonder that it is irresistible
among savages ? I am so assured of this, that I
feel convinced if an African were offered double
the reward for the same amount of labour that he
employs in kidnapping a man, for any honest em-
ployment, he would prefer that of catching the
slave.

After stating the pursuits of the inhabitants of
this dreary region, it is almost unnecessary to say
anything of their moral qualities : a people so
thoroughly debased, demoralised, and degraded,
I could not have conceived existed within a few
miles of ports which British ships had frequented
for a century. But it only adds another to former
proofs, that the intercourse between civilised and
savage nations has hitherto been productive of
anything but good to the latter ; it has robbed

108 BANKS OF THE NUN.

them of the few good traits their character pos-
sessed, and engrafted on their naturally vicious
dispositions the worst qualities of civilised life.

If their moral constitution be bad, their physi-
cal one might have been given them to match Lt,
living as they do on the lowest vegetable and
fish diet, when they are fortunate enough to pro-
cure it. They are frequently obliged to subsist
on vermin and garbage of all kinds ; and, as a na-
tural consequence, their bodies present the most
disgusting appearances, from ulcers, and the accu-
mulated filth of personal uncleanness. This is
the general character of the people inhabiting
the marshy ground, as we found them ; nor was
any improvement observable in them until we
came to Eboe.

The quantity of palm-oil at present made on
the banks of the Nun is not, in my opinion, one
twentieth part of the natural production. I have
seen the palm-oil nuts of the season lying on the
ground neglected as an article too plentiful to be
valuable, and am convinced, that in case of any
efficient stop being put to the slave-trade,
the production, if the demand continued, would
be four times as much in as many years.
The very creeks and branches that perplex

DISORGANISATION, 109

and endanger the European would be frequent-
ed by the natives, in a peaceable state of the
country, as so many channels of communica-
tion between the palm-forests and the principal
ports. There is no doubt that they were in-
tended by our benevolent Creator for the purpose
of facilitating the communication in a country
where, from the nature of the soil, land-carriage
is impracticable.

However the disorganised state of the country
may injure its inhabitants, it was perhaps of ad-
vantage to us, as it prevented any combination
among the villages to impede our ascent of the
river, and explains the feeling which prompted
the chief of the village immediately above that
which we attacked and burnt, to congratulate us
on our arrival at our success. A system that
creates universal distrust is not the most favour-
able to the development of combined plans of
operations against a common enemy. But I have
before stated that the skirmish originated in a
mistake, and have merely alluded to it here to
remove the impression generally entertained of
the natives on the Nun branch of the Niger. *

* The much-lamented death of Mr. Lander and some of
his companions is no proof against this assertion. A man

110 FATE OF MR. LANDER.

with valuable property in his possession, without the means
of defence, may be, and constantly is, exposed to robbery
and assassination in the most civilised countries of the world.
Mr. Lander was ascending the river in an open boat, with a
quantity of cowries, the specie of the country ; his boat
grounded on a bank near a small town; the temptation of
plunder was too great for the natives to withstand, and he
was sacrificed. But if Mr. Lander had been on board his
steam-vessel, the result would have been very different : it is
very unlikely he would have been attacked at all.

DEPARTURE FROM EBOE, 111

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Eboe. — The Qnorra aground. — Mr. Jordan
taken ill. — TheQuorras Or etc attacked tvith Fever. — Proceed
to Damuggoo. — Awful Mortality on board the Quorra. —
Arrive at Attah. — Reflections on the Mortality. — Situation
of Attali. — Its advantages. — Natives method of killing the
Alligator. — Dejmrt from Attah. — Messenger from the
King. — Difficulties of the Navigation. — Proceed to Bocqua.
— The Kong Mountains. — River Scenery, — The Quorra
aground.

At eight o'clock in the evening of the 9th of
November, we left Eboe, and by the light
of a splendid moon threaded our way through a
very intricate nayigation until two o'clock in the
morning of the 10th ; when, being in very shoal
water, we came to anchor about fifteen miles from
the town. This was the widest part of the river
that we had yet seen, — its breadth cannot be less
than three thousand yards ; and here the river
throws off its great branches, — the Benin and

112 THE QUORRA AGROUND.

Bonny.* We crossed the Benin branch, and
found it about eight hundred yards wide, with a
depth varying from ten feet to six fathoms. The
Bonny branch appeared to run out in a south
south-east direction ; but as we were some dis-
tance from it, I cannot speak from personal know-
ledge of its size and depth. On the sandy point
that formed its entrance were a great number of
temporary barracoons, and nine or ten canoes, one
or two of which had trade puncheons in them :
they were evidently trading for palm-oil, the
bank being covered with immense quantities of
the gourds in which the natives collect it.

The river after throwing off these branches ap-
peared about fifteen hundred yards wide, divided
by sandy islands which were overgrown with
long grass. The marks on the banks would indi-
cate these to be entirely covered when the river
is swollen. About eight in the morning, we
passed a branch flowing in from the north-east,
but apparently shallow. It is about four hun-
dred yards wide, and above it are several popu-
lous villages.

At two in the afternoon, in crossing the river,
we ran aground. Fortunately we were only going
* What I presume to be tliose rivers.

MR. JORDAN TAKEN ILL. 113

at half speed. The engine was immediately re-
versed, and in half an hour we backed off, but
not before getting the carriage-guns and chain-
cables aft on the poop, to bring her down by the
stern. While aground, we had three and a half fa-
thoms under the stern, and only three feet under
the bows ; the bar of mud and sand being worn
almost perpendicular on one side by the current.
In the course of the afternoon the vessel was
surrounded by canoes, with goats, yams, plan-
tains, and bananas for sale. On firing the even-
ing gun, as usual, it was amusing to see the
general rush for the shore : they seemed perfectly
to understand the foxhunter's motto, '^ Every
one for himself, and God for us all."

At ten A. M. of the 11th, we came to an
anchor, close to the western bank of the river,
in eight fathoms. I was sorry to hear that Mr.
Jordan, in the Alburkah, was attacked with
symptoms of fever. He was immediately removed
by Dr. Briggs into the Quorra ; and in the course
of the evening the Doctor reported to me that
four of my own crew were attacked with the same
symptoms. They were apparently of a slight
nature ; but, after witnessing poor Harries's ill-
ness, I became alarmed at anything.

VOL. I. I

114 QUORRA'S CREW

On the 12th, I sent the Kroomen on shore to
cut firewood. The bank abreast of our anchorage
was about ten feet high, and formed of a stiff clay :
the country about us was not very marshy, and
but thinly wooded. At eleven a. m. of this day
I was seized with fever. The symptoms in my
own case were a severe throbbing headache, a
burning pain in the feet and hands, and a deadly
sickness at the stomach ; all of which symptoms
attacked me simultaneously, and without any pre-
vious indisposition. Dr. Briggs in the course of
the day was also attacked in the same manner,
besides nine more of the crew; and Mr. Jordan
continued much in the same state.

In the afternoon, Mr. Lander came on board,
with the brother of the King of Damuggoo, who
was on his way to Eboe market with sixteen
elephant's teeth and a number of slaves. So
sudden was the prostration of strength in my
case, that, though perfectly well a few hours be-
fore and quite sensible, I could hardly crawl on
deck to see him. The man left the ivory on
board, and proceeded on to Eboe with the slaves.
We were to pay for the former on our arrival at
Damuggoo, and the confidence which was shown
in this act was both unexpected and gratifying.

ATTACKED WITH FEVER. 115

At eight in the evening, about nine hours after
my attack, I was much relieved by copious vomit-
ing. Captain Hill, by an observation, made the
latitude of this deadly spot 5° 54' N.

On the following morning, the 13th, I found
myself much better ; the fever had left me as
weak as a child ; but I found only one white man
and a mulatto of all the crew able to do their
duty. By the evening, the Kroomen had got all
our wood on board ; and I was in hopes that a
change of scene on the following day would pro-
duce a good effect on the crew. They were not
absolutely ill, but complained of languor — had a
disinclination to move, a feeling of nausea, and
excessive prostration of strength. I tried in vain
to cheer them : it seemed as if a deadly gloom
hung over the vessel. Dr. Briggs was in a high
fever, but sensible, and persisted in attending the
men. I prayed, I trust sincerely, to my Maker,
that, however my body might be affected, my mind
might be spared.

From this date to the 5th of December my
own journal is a blank, which from that of Cap-
tain Hill and my own memory I have only been
enabled to fill up. I may premise, however, that
Captain Hill's journal extends to our arrival at

116 PROCEED TO DAMUGGOO.

Damuggoo, that my delirium only lasted a few
hours, and that I have a most vivid recollection
of the dreadful scene which our unfortunate ves-
sel presented.

On the morning of the 14th, we left our an-
chorage, in company with the Alburkah ; and
from my hammock on deck under the awning I
gave the necessary directions to Harvey, the
only European able to do duty. About eleven
o'clock, this poor fellow was taken ill with the
same symptoms as the rest ; and from the ex-
citement, or some other cause, I became much
worse. I managed to hail the Alburkah, and
stated that I had no one on board who could take
charge of the vessel, desiring at the same time
that Captain Hill might be sent on board to take
charge. Although much against his inclination,
he came and did so.

At four p. M. our wood being expended, we
came to an anchor ; but as we found the wood
there of a bad quality, we took on board only a
small quantity.

At two p. M. on the 15th November, we again
came to an anchor, in a more convenient situa-
tion, and where the firewood proved to be of a
better quality. Captain Hill was here seized

DEATH OF MR. CLARK AND OTHERS. 117

with fever, and obliged to return on board the
Alburkah. His was another instance of the
power of the imagination : he had always had
a great dread of the Quorra, — and certainly she
was by far more unhealthy than his vessel, the
Alburkah.

On the l6th, Mr. Lander, who still enjoyed
good health, came on board, bringing with him
a mulatto who had acted as fireman on board the
Alburkah to work our engine, the whole of my
crew being confined to their hammocks. We
then got under weigh, taking the Alburkah in
tow, and at length arrived at Damuggoo.

On the 18th, Mr. Andrew Clark, a fine young
gentleman about eighteen years of age, died.
He had joined the expedition as a volunteer
against my wishes, but with the full approba-
tion of his friends, with whom I was intimately
acquainted. Poor fellow ! he expired with the
utmost calmness, drinking a cup of coffee ; and
his amiable and obliging disposition having en-
deared him to the crew, his death threw an
additional gloom of despondency over these ill-
fated men. In the afternoon James Dunbar,
one of the firemen, died.

On the 19th, my chief mate, Mr- Goldie, and

118 INCREASING MORTALITY.

my sailmaker, John Brien, followed ; and on the
morning of the 210th, our supercargo, Mr. Jordan,
expired. I thought at the time that Dr. Briggs
had died also ; as, while he was endeavouring to
revive Mr. Jordan, he swooned and remained
insensible for a long time. In the evening of
the 20th, Mr. Swinton also died : — he was a most
respectable man, and filled the situation of car-
penter ; he was a native of Grangemouth, and
having been a resident many years in the Indian
Archipelago, thought that no climate could affect
him. A few hours after his death, Mr. Millar,
our chief engineer, a young man of high promise
and respectable connexions in the South of
Scotland, followed him.

On the 211st November, we lost William
Ramm, the steward ; William Parry, an appren-
tice ; and Gardner, a seaman. On the 22tnd, these
were followed by William Ellison, the second
mate, and a fine lad about sixteen years old
whom Captain Harries had picked up and adopt-
ed in Dublin : his name was George ,

and I believe he was respectably connected, and
entitled to some property when of age. The
23rd of November was a day of respite ; but on
the 24th, Hugh Cosnahan, a seaman, died, and

ARRIVAL AT ATTAH. 119

for another interval the mortality ceased; the
Quorra having lost thirteen, and the Alburkah
two men. Two or three days having passed
without a death taking place, allowed us to hope
that some of us might survive the voyage ; but at
first, from the mortality occurring so rapidly, few
of us expected to be spared to tell the melan-
choly tale. The latitude of Damuggoo, where
our companions lie buried, is 6^ 31' N.

On the 2l7th we arrived at Attah, Mr. Lander
in the Quorra still towing the Alburkah. On
the 28th Mr. Lander visited the king, who re-
ceived him, I understood, with more than usual
pomp.

On the 5th of December I was able to write in
my journal, and I find the following entry : —
" Recovering slowly, but I hope surely. I have
living, Alexander Hector, purser ; John, the se-
cond steward ; Harvey, Kirby, Belfrage, and
Davies, seamen ; all as weak as myself, and
crawling about the decks more like spectres
than men.

" ' A mother had not known her son,

Amid the skeletons of that gaunt crew.'

" Dr. Briggs has been closer run than myself,

and for two nights I expected every moment

would be his last : he is now, thank God ! doing

120 OBSERVATIONS ON

well. Last night, about ten o'clock, Johnson, a
mulatto fireman, died ; and in the morning Cap-
tain Robert Miller was found dead in his bed :
he had expired so calmly, that no one was
aware that his spirit had fled. Johnson died of
epilepsy succeeding his fever, which had been
but slight. Mr. Lander buried them both on the
west bank of the river."

As the awful mortality detailed in the preced-
ing account has few parallels, and though aware
that the opinion of a non-professional man is of
little importance, yet, being placed as I was in a
situation of no common responsibility, I consider
it right to state, first, the precautions taken to
prevent sickness; secondly, the predisposing
causes from which I think it originated ; and,
thirdly, the course which the experience I have
acquired enables me to recommend to persons in
similar expeditions.

First. — The precautions taken were, (with the
advice and concurrence of Dr. Briggs,) immedi-
ately on entering the river to spread the double
awnings fore and aft the vessel ; the sides of the
vessel were raised by canvass to a height of eight
feet from the main deck ; chloride of lime was
daily sprinkled in the forecastle and cabin, and

THE MORTALITY. 121

upon the decks. White men were never allowed
to work from under the awnings, and on no ac-
count permitted to sleep exposed to the dew.
Their diet consisted of the navy allowance, coffee
being substituted for cocoa every alternate day,
and fresh meat when it was to be had ; their
allowance of spirits was one glass of rum per day ;
those who preferred it had brandy in its place ;
no palm-wine or other intoxicating liquor of the
natives was allowed to be brought on board, and
little if any was smuggled ; in addition, they had
a cup of strong coffee served out to them at day-
break. A few of them were on shore for a few
hours at Eboe, in charge of the mate ; and, with
that exception, they were altogether on board
their vessel.

Secondly. — The principal predisposing causes
were, in my opinion, the sudden change from the
open sea to a narrow and winding river, the
want of the sea-breeze, and the prevalence of the
deadly miasma to which we were nightly exposed
from the surrounding swamps. The horrid sick-
ening stench of this miasma must be experienced
to be conceived : no description of it can con-
vey to the mind the wretched sensation that is
felt for some time before and after daybreak.

122 OBSERVATIONS ON

In those accursed swamps, one is oppressed, not
only bodily, but mentally, with an indescribable
feeling of heaviness, languor, nausea, and dis-
gust, which requires a considerable effort to
shake off. Another cause of sickness was the
want of excitement. We had been led to expect
great opposition on our passage to Eboe, and the
minds of the crew, in expectation of it, had been
raised to dare anything, and to overcome every
obstacle to our progress: with the exception of
one slight skirmish, we met with none, and in-
stead of the excitement produced by a sense of
personal danger, which would in a great measure
have prevented the men from thinking of the un-
healthiness of the climate, they had before them,
every day, a tedious, uninteresting, and pro-
tracted voyage through a flat and marshy
country. It may be strange that the absence of
danger should be assigned as a predisposing
cause of sickness ; but I feel confident that expe-
rience will bear me out in the assertion.

Thirdly. — To any persons under similar cir-
cumstances, I would recommend to keep up the
excitement of the crew in every possible way —
by giving them, when in the swampy country,
triple the usual allowance of spirits ; to feed

THE MORTALITY. 123

them as much as possible on fresh provision ; to
employ them constantly, never allowing them to
be idle for a moment ; and, above all things, to
have music on board. My reason for giving this
advice is, that I consider a European in that
climate as placed in an unnatural position, and
that the only chance there is of saving him is by
stimulating him to the utmost, and preventing
his mind from sinking into that state of despond-
ency to which both the country and the climate
so fatally predispose it. As change of scene
is also a powerful stimulant, the greatest exer-
tion should be made to reach Eboe, which, with
coals for fuel and a fast steam-vessel, may be
done in forty-eight hours. I am aware that
this stimulating system cannot last ; but if it lasts
long enough to take the crew alive through the
swamps into the upper country, it will have
effected all that is w^anted, and can be gradually
relinquished.

Mr. Lander's behaviour during our sickness
did him infinite credit. He was indefatigable in
his attention to the sick, and bled and blistered
the men as if he had been a regular licentiate.
The application of a blister over the head seemed
to give the greatest relief, and in my own case

124 TOWN OF ATTAH.

and that of Dr. Briggs was, under Providence,
the means of saving us. After this is done, I
do not think that medical skill can go further —
the question becomes a pitched battle between
the fever and the constitution of the person
attacked with it; and medicine, after the first
necessary emetics and purgatives, does more
harm than good.

In recovering, the greatest caution is neces-
sary ; excitement of any kind must be avoided,
and great care must be taken that the patient
does not give way to his voracious appetite: a
relapse is generally fatal, and always more dan-
gerous than the first attack.

The town of Attah, off which we had anchored,
presented a most picturesque appearance. It is
seated on the summit of a hill, the perpendicu-
lar side of which rises immediately from the river
to the height of about two hundred and fifty or
three hundred feet. The King of Attah has the re-
putation of being the most powerful between the
sea and Fundah, and carries on a considerable
trade in slaves and ivory. We found two men
there from King Peppel of Bonny, buying slaves
for their master : the price was as low as five
dollars, or goods of that value, for a prime slave.

ITS ADVANTAGES. 125

Mr. Lander, accompanied by Captain Hill,
went on shore several times, and described
the view from the town as most splendid.
The Kong mountains are seen in the dis-
tance stretching from west north-west to south-
east, and from their tabular appearance, I
apprehended, would prove to be of the trap
formation. The hill on which Attah stands
appears to be some conglomerate,* and forms
the extremity of a low range of hills which con-
stitutes the eastern boundary of the river. The
appearance of the western bank is strikingly
beautiful, and I anticipated much benefit to all
the survivors by the change from the low and
monotonous scenery. An observation by Captain
Hill placed Attah in lat. 7° 61' N. It is healthy,
and the only place we have yet seen in the river
where a European could possibly exist for any
length of time. It has many natural advantages,
and on some future day will be a place of great
importance. Situated as it is above the alluvial
soil and at the entrance to the valley of the
Niger, it commands at present the whole trade
of the interior ; which trade, although trifling at

* It is very similar to the volcanfc bluffs at Clarence
Cove, Fernando Po.

126 natives' method of

present, it requires no prophet to foresee will at
some time hereafter be immense. The inhabit-
ants of Attah are enterprising traders, and mo-
nopolise in a great measure the trade above
the town. Notwithstanding this, we had been
lying at our anchorage for ten days, and could
see no prospect of opening any trade with them ;
not from indisposition towards us on the part
of the natives, but from their dilatory habits
— time being of no importance to them. Per-
haps another reason might be, that, with the
exception of slaves, they have little to trade
with.

One day, while we lay at anchor off the town,
I witnessed one of the most ingenious ways of
killing an alligator that could be imagined.
One of these huge creatures was discovered
basking on a bank in the river, a short distance
ahead of our vessels. He was observed by two
natives in a canoe, who immediately paddled to
the opposite side of the bank, and having landed,
crept cautiously towards him. As soon as they
were near the animal, one of the natives stood
up from his crouching position, holding a spear
about six feet long, which with one blow he
struck through the animal's tail into the sand.

KILLING THE ALLIGATOR. 127

A most strenuous contest immediately ensued ; the
man with the spear holding it in the sand as
firmly as his strength allowed him, and clinging
to it as it became necessary to shift his position
with the agility of a monkey ; while his companion
occasionally ran in as opportunity offered, and
with much dexterity gave the animal a thrust
with his long knife, retreating at the same mo-
ment from within reach of its capacious jaws as
it whirled round upon the extraordinary pivot
which his companion had so successfully placed
in its tail. The battle lasted about half an hour,
terminating in the slaughter of the alligator, and
the triumph of his conquerors, who were not long
in cutting him into pieces and loading their
canoes with his flesh, which they immediately
carried to the shore and retailed to their country-
men. It is evident that the success of this plan
depended on the nerve and dexterity of the man
who pinned the animal's tail to the ground ; and
his contortions and struggles to keep his position
were highly ridiculous and entertaining.

On the 5th of December, Mr. Lander, accom-
panied by Captain Hill, went on shore to inform
the king of our intention to leave him on the fol-
lowing morning; but after a fruitless attempt to

128 CEREMONIES TO PREVENT OUR PROGRESS.

see him, they returned on board, and decided on
proceeding up the river without waiting to take
leave of him, at daylight. During the day some
ceremonies were performed ahead of the vessels
in the river to prevent our passing upwards, his
Majesty of Attah being very desirous that we
should not proceed further up the river. These
ceremonies were performed by men in canoes,
fantastically dressed. They stood up and made
a variety of expressive gestures, and concluded
their proceedings by throwing into the river what
appeared to me to be alligator's flesh.

On the 6th of December I found myself much
better ; but Dr. Briggs had a smart return of fever,
brought on by an attempt which he made to at-
tend to some of the convalescents. Captain Hill
and Mr. Lander came on board at six a. m. and
got the Quorra under weigh, with the Alburkah
in tow. The engine was worked by a mulatto
belonging to the Alburkah, the only remaining
fireman of both vessels. As the vessels gathered
way and passed the place where the fetish or ce-
remony of yesterday was made, the natives, who
were crowded on the hill on which the town
stands, testified their astonishment by a general
yell.

MESSENGER FROM THE KING. 129

The scenery of the banks, but particularly the
western one, about this place is beautiful. We
passed one of the loveliest little towns I have yet
seen, which I called the Crow's Nest, from its
being seated on the summit of an almost perpen-
dicular rock about one hundred and eighty feet
high, and apparently of basalt ; but it was so over-
grown with vegetation, that the face of the stone
was scarcely visible. We found the navigation
difficult, the current stronger than below Attah ;
which we might have anticipated, as we were
now entering the valley of the Niger. The level
of the river appeared to be rising.

After a few hours' steaming, we anchored in
a favourable position to obtain wood. Captain
Hill had a return of fever this afternoon. It is
something remarkable that this vessel, the Quorra,
seemed to make every one ill except Mr. Lander,
who continued in excellent health. Captain Hill
returned on board his iron vessel, the Alburkah,
vowing that he would never leave her again.

In the evening a canoe arrived from Attah,
with his majesty's brother, stating his surprise at
our leaving so abruptly, and repeating his protes-
tations of friendship, with the assurance of his
willingness to trade if we would turn back. I was

VOL. I. K

130 DIFFICULTIES OF THE NAVIGATION.

much amused with the fellow's cumiing, and the
ingenuity he displayed in varying his lies ; at one
time pretending that he was unwell, at another
that he was consulting his gods — always ending
with " Why won't you take men ?" (instead of
ivory.) However, neither he nor his errand had
any effect with us.

On the 7th we were under weigh at noon, in
hopes of reaching Bocqua before night ; instead
of which we were obliged to come to again about
three miles from our last resting-place, having
spent the whole afternoon in fruitless endeavours
to find the right channel, the river being divided
by sandy islets into a number of small channels.
By the marks on the bank under which we an-
chored, the river appeared to have fallen twenty
feet.

On the following morning I found myself suf-
ficiently recovered to take charge again of my
own vessel ; and my remnant of crew were gradu-
ally and, I hoped, surely recovering. After leav-
ing our anchorage, we were obliged to anchor
again three times, while the channel was examined
by a boat ; and after making good about twelve
miles, we came to an anchor opposite a beautiful
little town, situated as usual on the top of a small

ENCHANTING SCENERY. 131

liill. The least depth of water we had was six
feet, and the next cast of the lead was four
fathoms. The bed of the river appeared to be
formed by ridges, as we frequently found ten
feet, and the next moment six and seven fathoms.
This reach of the river runs north-east by com-
pass ; but it was nervous work for a convalescent
to navigate a vessel under such circumstances.

The scenery which we passed to-day was of
the most enchanting description. A succession
of flat table-hills with perpendicular sides were
backed by the Kong Mountains in the distance,
appearing to rise to the height of between two
and three thousand feet. The summits of all
were of a tabular form.* To us who had been
for the last two months in a flat, marshy, and
monotonous country, no doubt they appeared
more interesting than they really are ; but I
shall never forget the feelings with which I sur-
veyed their hazy outline, though so weak at the
time as to require two men to lift me up to
behold them. Dr. Briggs continued very un-
well, but I gained strength daily. On hailing
the Alburkah, I found that Captain Hill and

* I afterwards found two or three remarkable hills of a
sugar-loaf shape .

k2

132 VILLAGE OF ATTACOLICO.

Lieutenant Allen were both in a very precarious
state. The name of the town off which we had
anchored is Attacolico.

On the 9th, Dr. Briggs, to my great relief,
became better. We read prayers in the morning,
for the first time since the mortality, to the mi-
serable remnant of our crew. We formed a small,
but, I trust, a sincere congregation.

In the morning of the 10th, Mr. Lander's ser-
vant went on shore and shot three guinea-fowls,
which proved excellent eating. He informed me,
on his return, that the natives were much an-
noyed by wild beasts, which committed such
depredations that they found it impossible to
rear either goats or fowls. The village appears
to be newly formed, and Pascoe informs me that
the settlers have been driven from the opposite
bank of the river by the Kacunda people. In
the afternoon, Mr. Lander took the gig, intend-
ing to examine the channel as far as Bocqua, and
to return on board in the morning.

On the 11th, in the morning, a great number
of canoes passed us returning with slaves and
ivory from Bocqua market to Attah. From
some of them I purchased eleven scrivelloes, but
paid more for them than would have been asked

MR. lander's excursion. 133

on the coast. I am told that the fair or market
is held every ten days, and is attended by Eboe
and Attah people from the low country, and by
Rabbah and Fundah traders from the north.

In the afternoon Mr. Lander returned, having
been unable to reach Bocqua until this morning.
He had slept a few hours on a sandbank, day-
light being necessary to enable him to find the
proper channel of the river. He had much diffi-
culty in meeting with his old friend the king, who
had been driven from the opposite bank of the
river by the Kacunda people, who possessed the
whole western bank of the river. He informed us
that the fair was attended by more than six thou-
sand people ; that it was held on a sandbank ; and
that horses, tobes, goats, sheep, rice, &c. were ex-
posed for sale. From the canoes going down we
obtained about one hundred-weight of rice for a
few gun-flints. All the large trading canoes had
a pony on board, about thirteen hands high : they
had little blood, and were in a poor condition.

We remained supplying the vessels with wood
on the 121th. In the course of their work the
Kroomen found a hive of bees. They immedi-
ately smoked out the bees with tobacco, and ob-
tained about as much honey as would fill two

134 ACCIDENT TO STEAM APPARATUS.

buckets. It was the first we had found, and,
though not equal to the heather, was very ac-
ceptable : it had a strong, harsh, aromatic flavour.
Dr. Briggs procured a fine specimen of rock
from the eastern bank, which appeared to be ex-
clusively composed of mica slate.

Having laid in a stock of fuel, and Mr. Lander
having found the passage to Bocqua intricate and
shallow, steam was got up in the Alburkah to
lead the way. We contrived to make an engi-
neer out of the steward of the Alburkah, and it
was expected that he w^ould perform the duty of
one as well as men of greater pretensions. Mr.
Hector, the purser, was the only one of the
Quorra's crew able to stand, and I was very weak
and excessively nervous. To add to my nervous-
ness, we touched once or twice ; but we scrambled
on until eleven a.m. when we were obliged to
anchor, in consequence of our young engineer
having opened the connexion between the boiler
and the deck-hose, instead of the sea-cock. The
pressure of the steam blew the scalding water
over the decks, and the whole of my black crew
began capering about like madmen, as the water
scalded their feet. I had great difficulty to pre-
vent them from jumping overboard, and still

author's relapse of fever. 135

greater to get them to draw the fires. At the
expense of scalding my feet and hands a little,
I got down to the safety-valve and blew off the
steam^ and by that means saved the boiler, as
the water was nearly blown out, and the pressure
would have destroyed the flues. The exertion
and excitement were too much for me, and I felt
that I was about to have a relapse. I sent the
boat to Mr. Lander, who determined to proceed
to the junction of the Shary and Niger, and,
should he find water sufficient, to return for us.
Having taken some goods on board the Alburkah,
he proceeded up the river in her, leaving me at
anchor. I had a smart return of fever, with in-
tense pain in the head and other symptoms
which gave me fair warning of what I had to ex-
pect ; and it was distressing to me to see Hector
in the same state.

By the morning of the 24th, I was again
better, and for the three preceding days had
been rapidly recovering from my last attack ;
but I had again been reduced by it, and Dr.
Briggs told me he had given up hopes of my
recovery, particularly as I had refused to take
any medicine. I joked the Doctor a little about
doing without his assistance. During this at-

136 MR. lander's second excursion.

tack my spirits for the first time gave way : for-
tunately the fit only lasted a few hours, and was
subdued with fifty drops of laudanum which the
Doctor had given me to induce sleep, the want of
which for several nights had harassed and weaken-
ed my mind considerably. Poor Hector's mind,
I was sorry to see, was completely gone, being
as weak as his body.

Mr. Lander came down from the Alburkah
on the 210th, which vessel he had left at the
junction of the Shary and Niger. He stated
that the navigation was very intricate, but that
in the true channel there was abundance of
water. The inhabitants of all the towns that
he had passed were delighted, by his account,
at the prospect of trading with white people,
and the country he described as being even
more beautiful than that where we then were.
On the 21st we got mider weigh and passed
Bocqua, the old chief sending us a boat-load
of wood, and entered the gorge of the Kong
Mountains. The river here is confined in a
bed of about seven hundred yards wide, the
Kong Mountains rising to the height of from
two to three thousand feet on each side. On
the western bank there is a mountain which

THE KONG MOUNTAINS. 137

bears so strong a resemblance to Arthur's Seat
near Edinburgh, that Dr. Briggs and myself
were struck with the resemblance at the same
instant. On the eastern bank there are three
sides or lips of what appeared to me the re-
mains of an immense crater. The side facing the
north-west, which was that next to the river, had
fallen, and immediately before it stood one of
the most remarkably shaped sugar-loaf hills I
ever saw. It was a perfect cone about five
hundred feet high, surmounted by a curious
column of rock, which, on examining it through
a telescope. Dr. Briggs pronounced to be basalt.
It certainly had very much the appearance of
it, but the distance may have deceived us.

The Kong Mountains lie in the direction of
about west-north-west and east-south-east, where
they are intersected by the Niger : they have
a remarkably bold outline, and, if we might
judge by those portions of them that abutted
on the river, appear to be composed principally
of granite. The channel between them is dan-
gerous, owing to large blocks of granite that
lie in the stream, producing eddies and shoals.
On one of these we ran aground about four in
the afternoon, but got off again in about half

138 RIVER SCENERY.

an hour, and came to anchor for the night
below the rocky islets that appear to guard
the upper entrance of the strait. In the morn-
ing we were again under weigh, and a few mi-
nutes afterwards opened one of the noblest
reaches that imagination could have conceived.
An immense river, about three thousand yards
wide, extending as far as the eye could reach,
lay before us, flowing majestically between its
banks, which rose gradually to a considerable
height and were studded with clumps of trees
and brushwood, giving them the appearance of
a gentleman's park ; while the smoke rising from
different towns on its banks, and the number of
canoes floating on its bosom, gave it an aspect
of security and peace far beyond any African
scene I had yet witnessed. The confluence of
the Shary was just in sight, and a range of low
hills on the northern bank trended east-north-
east ; while on the western bank of the Niger
were two remarkable isolated table-lands of a
romantic and beautiful appearance, giving a
finish to a picture to which no description can
do adequate justice.

At ten A. M. as we were pursuing our course,
the Quorra struck on a shelf of rocks extend-

THE QUORRA AGROUND. 139

ing from the bank to a considerable distance. I
thought the shock would have been fatal to the
vessel ; but she fell off of her own accord, and,
finding that she made no water, we proceeded
on. Shortly afterwards we ran on a sandbank
in attempting to cross the river, and passed the
whole day in vainly trying to get off again.
We blew off the boilers to lighten the vessel,
but to no purpose. Mr. Lander left us and went
up to the Alburkah, which was in sight, about
six miles distant.

In the morning of the 23rd, we sent the car-
riage-guns, round and canister shot, on shore, —
landed the best bower cable, and all the weighty
things about the decks : about two p. m. the ves-
sel came off, after about twenty-four hours' hard
labour.

Mr. Lander returned from the Alburkah, and
informed me that Lieutenant Allen had a severe
relapse, and that Captain Hill was better ; but
that the carpenter, a fine young man, was
dead, being the third man they had lost in
the river.

Christmas Day found most of us gradually
recovering. I was gaining strength rapidly, and
so was Dr. Briggs. Hector was also better ; but

140 A WARM CHRISTMAS.

John, the second steward, was worse, and I was
apprehensive that we should lose him. In the
afternoon we made another attempt to get the
vessel across the river, having sounded all the
way in a boat. We had lightened her to four
feet seven inches, but had scarcely got under
weigh when she grounded again, running her
bows a foot out of the water. Mr. Lander was
quite disheartened and very unwell. He in-
sisted on returning to the Alburkah against the
advice of Dr. Briggs, who thought him pre-
disposed to dysentery, and was afraid the ex-
posure would bring it on.

The vessel being only aground under her
bows, we got an anchor out astern, and prepared
to discharge from the fore-hold in the morning.
The thermometer this morning was at 66°, and at
three p. m. it was at 90", the warmest Christmas
by far of any I had passed before, — but a fine
breeze tempered the afternoon heat. Dr. Briggs
and I passed, I will not say a merry Christmas,
but a thankful one, and toasted our friends at
home in

" Cups that cheer, but not inebriate."

THE QUORRA. 141

CHAPTER VI.

Sickness in the Alhurkali. — Disappointment in the Navigation.
— More Sichiess in the Qttorra. — Prepare for the Rainy
Season. — Another Messenger from Attah. — Attah Canoes. —
Attempt of Mr. Lander to proceed to Boussa, — A TJiief
caught. — Visit to Addakudda. — Description of the River
above Eboe. — Superior Character of the Natives. — Manu-
factures and Trade.

At daybreak on the following morning we
discharged two boat-loads of goods from the fore-
hold and hove the vessel off. In attempting to
warp her across the river, she grounded again,
after getting half way over, in consequence of the
kedges coming home. It became necessary to
lighten her more. Fortunately she had grounded
on sand, and remained perfectly tight.

At daybreak on the 2l7th, we found that a bank
had formed under her larboard quarter, on which
there was a depth only of two feet water, while
on the opposite quarter we had ten feet. The

142 SICKNESS ON BOARD THE ALBURKAH.

two kedges were now carried out astern, and we
hove her off about ten feet clear of the bank,
when the kedges came home, and she drifted on
again in a worse position than before. We set
to work and discharged more cargo, by which we
lightened her to four and a half feet on an even
keel. In the evening I received a note from Mr.
Lander, informing me that he was seized with in-
termittent fever, and that he despaired of Lieut.
Allen, whose head he said was much affected,
and that Captain Hill was confined to his bed.

On the 28th, I was feverish and unwell all day.
The men were employed using every means to
get the vessel off, but in vain. The sands kept
shifting, and no anchor would hold in them.
This morning the vessel was aground, head and
stern, the current bubbling and roaring beneath
her for about twenty feet amidships, where there
was twelve feet water. She now appeared to be
hard and fast amidships, the current running like
a sluice under her fore and after body : indeed, it
was some matter of surprise to me that she was
not broken fairly in two.

In the evening I felt very unwell, and consi-
dered that I was about to have a relapse. Dr.
Briggs was in the same state. I took an emetic

DISCOURAGING CIRCUMSTANCES. 143

and six grains of calomel, and resigned myself to
my fate.

In the interval between the foregoing and the
7th of January, Dr. Briggs and I experienced
another severe attack of fever, and it was not
until this date that I could resume my journal.
We were both like scarecrows, with our long
beards and razor faces. On this day, however,
I w^as much better, and Dr. Briggs was convales-
cent. The vessel still lay aground. Such deten-
tion and delay, and no trade withal, was very
distressing. We had now been upwards of two
months in the river, and had not obtained half a
ton of ivory. However, we had not yet reached
the places where Mr. Lander saw it in such pro-
fusion ; but after all, when we were asked at the
rate of one shilling per pound for it, I was very
doubtful of its cheapness. The indigo was four-
fifths of it dirt, and would not pay freight home.

On the 8th, I felt nearly well. The vessel
could not be got off. The men had been heaving
on the kedges in vain, and I began to think that
if she were afloat, I should be rather at a loss
what to do with her ; for I doubted whether we
could remove her from the hole which she had
made for herself, surrounded as she was by banks

144 WALK INTO THE COUNTRY.

with three or four feet water only on them. On
the previous day I had purchased a bullock for
four yards of cloth ; and after enjoying a beef-
steak, Briggs and I found ourselves equal to a
little walk on shore. On landing we visited a
small village on the eastern bank of the river, and
took a guide to the top of the bank, which was
about one hundred and fifty feet high. From the
summit we had a magnificent view. The country
appeared thinly inhabited towards the interior,
compared with that near the banks of the river,
and was more thickly wooded.

Dr. Briggs collected a quantity of minerals in
our walk, and we met with the wild cotton, ta-
marind, and a number of beautiful shrubs. The
bank was formed of granite, covered over with a
stratum of rich vegetable mould, with here and
there large boulders of granite, of fantastic
shapes, rearing their naked heads above the long
grass. We soon after returned on board much
benefited by our little excursion. My friend
Briggs was an enthusiast in geology, and was
hammering at every stone we met with. Among
other acquirements which he had picked up in
his travels on the Continent was that of cooking;

OUR EBOE VALETS. 145

— and let no traveller sneer at the accomplish-
ment.

In our own case, as we had been without such
an assistant for a considerable time, and had only
a Krooman to cook for us, his abilities in this line
had been and were frequently in requisition for our
mutual comfort. Whenever Mr. Lander visited
us, we were better off, as he always brought his
own cook, Pascoe, with him, who might have
studied under Ude himself. As both our stewards
were gone, we had promoted two boys we found
at York to their office, and they had been our
only attendants during sickness. These two were
both Eboes, and spoke the language very well.
My valet's name was Friday, and the Doctor's
Saturday. Friday was about fom'teen, and his
history was somewhat curious. He was once
sold in the Bonny to a slaver, and made a voyage
to Havannah. Being a sharp intelligent lad, the
captain kept him as a cabin-boy ; and on the
next voyage to the coast the vessel was captured,
and Friday was landed at Sierra Leone, and from
thence sent to the Banana Islands. He there
gave himself out as being the son of the King of
Eboe ; and our hospitable friend Mr. Pratt of

VOL. I. L

146 PREPARE FOR THE RAINY SEASON.

York, thinking our expedition was a favourable
opportunity for his return, let us have him. It
may be needless to add, that the story of his
royal descent was his own invention. But he
proved a useful and apt servant, and I intended,
if he continued so, to bring him to England.

On the 9th, Mr. Lander came down to us
from the Alburkah, looking much reduced by his
attack of intermittent fever. He appeared in very
low spirits about our prospects, which certainly
were bad enough. He had been up to within
six miles of Cuttum-Curaffee, which town he
reports as being that distance from the river.
It has lately been burnt and plundered by the
Felatahs, and, in consequence, nothing was to
be had there. It was expected by the natives
that the rains would commence in the following
month, and he had begun to house in the Albur-
kah, recommending me to do the same with the
Quorra. It was a measure absolutely necessary
with us, for our decks were like sieves, and how
we were to caulk them was beyond my compre-
hension, as not one of my men was able to do
any work without great risk of a relapse.

A messenger from our old acquaintance of
Attah came up to-day in a large canoe, bringing

ANOTHER MESSENGER FROM ATTAH. 14.7

as his credentials a porter-bottle, which he dis-
played with great gravity and importance, utter-
ing at the same time the magic monosyllable
'rum.' He informed me that his master had
collected four hundred teeth, and wished us to
return and buy them. Mr. Lander proposed to
go down in the launch ; to which I strongly ob-
jected, as it was evidently a ruse of the old rascal
to get a white man in his power. The visit of
this emissary terminated in our filling his bottle
with rum as a sign that he had been with us,
and we despatched him to his master with a
message, saying we would send old Pascoe down.
Mr. Lander returned to the Alburkah in the
evening.

In the afternoon of the 10th, I went to the
Alburkah, and arrived at midnight completely
exhausted, having been five hours in going as
many miles.

On the following day I went on shore, with
Mr. Lander, to examine a situation preparing for
a house to contain our goods. It was on a small
hill about two hundred and fifty feet above the
river, that commands the junction of the Shary
and Niger. The view from it is very fine, and
I do not think that a more desirable spot could

l2

148 ATTAH CANOES.

be found. The steamers could lie close along-
side the bank; the ground was dry ; and if we suc-
ceeded in erecting any building (which I then
very much doubted), it appeared there was every
chance of its being healthy. I returned to the
Quorra in the evening, and found that she had
been got off, and, as usual, before she was ten
yards from the place where she lay, had run
aground again.

On the morning of the 12th, we made a last
effort to heave her off again into deep water, but
in vain ; and as she remained perfectly upright, I
determined on the next day to re-ship the cargo,
and house her over for the rains. We had been
eighteen days afloat and aground, frequently in
situations of great danger, and the men were
completely worn out. In the evening I experi-
enced another return of fever.

The next day being Sunday, the 13th, Dr.
Briggs read prayers. A canoe came down from
the Alburkah with a letter from Mr. Lander, giv-
ing me a fearful account of the danger to which
he had been exposed from some large Attah
canoes. Six of them, it appeared, had been pad-
dling round the Alburkah all night, but did not
venture to board. This King of Attah, it seemed.

KING OF ATTAll'S SWAY. 149

was the ruling man in this part of the country :
Fundah pays him tribute, and all the towns on
the banks of the river are kept in awe by his
numerous canoes, which are continually lurking
about stealing children and attacking the de-
fenceless villages. Scarcely a night passed but
we heard the screams of some unfortunate beings
that were carried off into slavery by these villa-
nous depredators. The King of Attah's territory
extends to the Shary, but how far to the east-
ward we had no means of judging. The mes-
senger that he had sent up, to say that he had
a quantity of ivory, was an impostor ; and the
whole, as I suspected, was an artifice to get Mr.
Lander or myself into his power. When they
found in the canoe that we were aground, they
proceeded up the river, and calling at every vil-
lage, denounced their master's vengeance on all
that traded with us : the consequence of which
was, that we could buy nothing alongside, and
were entirely dependent on the mountaineers
inhabiting the hills under which the Alburkah
lay. These people, in the true spirit of their race,
acknowledged no ruler but their own.

I have already alluded to the remarkable table-
lands which we saw, but had no idea of their extent.

150 TABLE-LANDS.

On that nearest to us were four large towns, rich
in sheep, goats, and bullocks. The paths leading
up to these table-lands are so steep, that Pascoe,
who was despatched on a mission to them, was
carried over the most difficult parts, being quite
unable to get over them otherwise. Secure in
these mountain fastnesses, they laugh to scorn
the kings of the plains below, with whom they
are generally at war. I regretted much that
the state of my health did not permit me to
visit them.

In the course of the day I had a severe attack
of ague, which I anticipated would be my daily
companion.

At daybreak on the 14th, I sent an armed
boat with Harvey and Kirby (the only two white
men on duty), and six Kroomen, to the Alburkah.
In the afternoon two large canoes came along-
side, from which I purchased some rice and
yams. They belonged to Attah, and were of
the party which had produced so much alarm,
with so little cause, on the mind of Mr. Lander.
They had been at war with a town above
Cuttum-CurafFee, which they had destroyed, and
had taken a number of slaves, some of whom they
had on board, and were anxious to dispose of to

AMUSE THE NATIVES. 151

US. I suppose it was nothing more nor less than
a slaving expedition on a larger scale than usual.
They complained bitterly of Mr., Lander, for not
allowing them to go alongside of his vessel, and
for threatening to fire into them, who, they
added, were his best friends. By way of amus-
ing them, I directed a twenty-four pounder to be
loaded, and discharged a shot along the surface
of the water ; and their delight on seeing it strike
and ricochet to the opposite bank was equal to
their surprise. At their earnest request, I sent
a shot by them to their king, as a specimen of
the kind of bullets which we were in the habit of
using.

In the evening our boat returned with a letter
from Mr. Lander, informing me that the war
palaver was over ; but his imagined enemies had
already told me that it had never existed on
their side at all events. Both Dr. Briggs and
myself were suffering under a violent attack of
ague.

On the 15th, we re-shipped the greater part of
our cargo. As a proof of the security of trade in
that part of Africa, I may here mention that the
goods had been lying on shore for three weeks,
and we had not lost a single package of any de-

152 MR. LANDERS PROPOSED VOYAGE

scription ; their only guard the whole time being
two Kroomen, who spent their time more in
shooting monkeys than guarding the goods.
Fever and ague were my visiters, as usual, in
the afternoon.

At daylight on the l6th, I sent a boat to the
Alburkah with goods ; but I found myself much
worse, and indeed not able to stand from ex-
cessive debility. Dr. Briggs was better, and
appeared to have got rid of his ague. On the
return of the boat, I was sorry to find that
my friends were again in hot water — could get
no provisions, could buy no ivory, and in fact
could do nothing : but, to my great relief, they
spoke of moving up to Rabbah, and if possible
to Boussa. I was rejoiced at this prospect on
more accounts than one ; — the question would
thus be settled as to the existence of the quan-
tity of ivory we had been led to expect, but of
which we had as yet seen nothing ; and it would
enable me to find subsistence for my own crew,
as ever since our arrival we had been living from
hand to mouth, seldom having two days' fresh
provisions on board, and frequently were obliged
to encroach on our salt provisions, which I was
carefully hoarding for any case of emergency.

FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY. 153

On the 17th, I remained very unwell, and
began to fear that I was becoming rather hy-
pochondriacal, which in the climate we were in
was likely to be productive of bad results. I
sent a note to Mr. Lander, informing him of
my inability to move, and my anxiety that he
should proceed without delay to Rabbah and
Boussa.

Mr. Lander and Captain Hill came down to
the Quorra on the following day. The former
appeared better, and the latter I thought was
very well. They informed me, that men em-
ployed by the King of Attah were stationed in
every market-town, to prevent the natives from
trading with us for provisions or ivory ; and Mr.
Lander considered it the best plan to proceed
at once up the river. I quite agreed in the pro-
posal, and recommended him to take my largest
boat and six or seven Kroomen with him, in case
of meeting with any hostility; and it would re-
lieve me of so many mouths, which, in the pre-
sent state of the provision market, was of some
consequence. This however he declined, saying
he had more men than he knew what to do
with, and disliked Kroomen.

Eventually it was arranged that the Alburkah

154 A THIEF CAUGHT.

should proceed with goods suitable for the upper
country, and that I should follow in the Quorra
as soon as she floated, which we expected would
be in March. After a short stay on board, Mr.
Lander and Captain Hill returned to their ves-
sel, leaving a list of goods which they wished
to be sent after them. I wished very much that
they would go, as they were constantly having
some misunderstanding with the natives, which
I attributed to Mr. Lander's paying too much
attention to the stories that his own men Pas-
coe, Jowdie, and Mina were always bringing
him. I have ever found the natives peaceable
and well-disposed, and, with the exception of
their pilfering propensities, easily managed.
Stealing I have never overlooked, and, during
the time we were aground, I flogged above a
score of them for theft, both masters and slaves.
One fellow was caught so neatly in the very
act, that I cannot forbear relating the circum-
stance. Dr. Briggs was lying on one of the
sofas in the cabin, reading, when a woolly head
made its appearance at one of the side ports,
and a black paw seized upon my dressing-box,
which was lying within reach from the window.
The Doctor made a spring, caught the fellow by

FORWARD GOODS TO MR. LANDER. 155

the ears, and called out lustily for assistance. As
the fellow's companions in the canoe were haul-
ing him down by his legs, one of the men jumped
down to the cabin to relieve the Doctor, and two
of my Kroomen stepped into the canoe and gave
the culprit thus caught in flagrante delicto three
dozen lashes in a style that would not have dis-
graced any boatswain's mate in his Majesty's
service. I never found that this severity did any
harm ; in fact, it was always applauded by the
natives, who, thieves themselves, think in com-
mon with their more civilised brethren, that the
disgrace lies not in the act, but in the detection
of the theft.

I forwarded a large quantity of our most va-
luable goods to Mr. Lander for his intended
voyage to Rabbah and Boussa, and received in
return the ivory which he had collected, being
something less than three hundred weight, as the
result of our trade for two months.

Accompanied by Dr. Briggs, I paid a visit to
Addakudda, the largest town in sight from the
vessel on the western bank of the river. It is
prettily situated on huge blocks of granite,
forming a natural barrier on the side next to the
river,, and giving it the appearance of a fortified

156 TOWN OF ADDAKUDDA.

place. Betwixt two of the blocks, is a landing-
place which might have been formed by art.
The town contains about five thousand inha-
bitants, and, like all the African towns which we
have yet met with, is abominably dirty and irre-
gularly constructed. The chief, to whom we took
the usual " dash," received us very graciously,
and presenting us with goora nuts, chatted with
us very cordially for some time. I told him that
I had opened a market on a sandbank near my
vessel, as I had heard his people did not like to
trade direct with white men. He assured me of
his friendship, and said he was very glad that 1
had punished his men when they were detected
stealing, particularly his son, whom he considered
a great rascal, and who richly deserved it. I
was not a little amused at finding thus unexpect-
edly that it was the heir-apparent who had re-
ceived the chastisement above alluded to. How-
ever, the chief was polite enough to show us over
a large dyeing-ground, which was placed on an
artificial mound of earth raised about thirty feet
above the level of the village, and covered with
poles and sticks for drying the cloth on as it was
taken from the pit. Their process appeared to
be exceedingly rude, and was briefly as follows :

MODE OF DYEING. 157

A quantity of crude indigo, made up in balls of
about three inches diameter, is thrown into a
pit, about four feet wide, and eight feet deep.
This pit is filled with water, and a ley of wood
ashes being added, is allowed to ferment : when
the fermentation has subsided, a board is put
down into the pit, the sediment is pushed on
one side, and the blue liquor remains. The pit
has a small gallows erected over it, and the
piece of cloth to be dyed is suspended from it
by a string, and let down and hauled up by the
dyer until he considers the dye to be sufficiently
deep.

The beauty of their dye consists, I think, in
the freshness of the indigo, and the quantity they
use. The price of dyeing a tobe, which if well
made contains from eleven to fourteen square
yards, is two thousand cowries, or two shillings
sterling. There were about fifteen or sixteen of
these pits on the hill, each with a separate pro-
prietor.

It being market-day, the town altogether pre-
sented a lively scene of trade and industry. In
the market we found palm-oil, shea butter, four
or five kinds of grain, Cayenne pepper, calavances,
yams, &c. exposed in considerable quantities for

158 SICKNESS ON BOARD THE QUORRA.

sale. The women who sold them were loud in
the praises of their goods, and emulous of the
patronage of the white men, who, I imagine, are
made to pay about four times the market-price
for everything which they buy.

As usual after any exertion, we had a much
more violent attack of the intermittent on our
return than usual. The daily return of the
ague had weakened me, and reduced me so
much, that I feared if it lasted much longer
my mind would suffer. Dr. Briggs was much
better, and had only occasional attacks ; but I
had scarcely escaped a day for the last three
weeks. Harvey was the only seaman on duty,
and he had become a scarecrow. As for the
rest, they were sunk into a deplorable state of
despondency. But this was not to be wondered
at, as the poor fellows had no kind of resources
within themselves, and the ennui of their situa-
tion, combined with the lassitude produced by
the climate, gave rise to anything but a pleasant
state of mind.

I had been busily employed during the last
few days in building a hut on an island distant
about half a mile from the vessel, which I in-
tended to open as a shop on a sort of debateable

OPEN A SHOP. 159

ground, as the natives did not appear very ready-
to bring their goods on board the vessel. In
clearing the ground for the hut v^e started two
wild swans, and Dr. Briggs winged one of them
with his fowling-piece, but he was too expert
a diver to be taken. We soon after found their
nest with nine noble eggs in it, which the Doc-
tor speedily converted into a savoury omelet.

On the 29th of January we opened our market
with a salute of nine guns, from two four-pounders
that I had landed there, having previously sent
word to all the towns about us of our intention.
Few people attended, and we only took ten
thousand cowries on our first day. Dr. Briggs
superintended, as I was confined by a severe
attack of fever, and suffered for his kindness,
as the exertion brought on a smart return of
intermittent.

As I passed many happy as well as melan-
choly days at this place, I will here introduce
a general account of the country between Eboe
and the confluence of the Shary and Niger,
some description of its inhabitants, their man-
ners and customs, its productions and physical
formation, with the mode of life which we led
on board the Quorra, as my daily journal would

160 DESCRIPTION OF

be uninteresting on account of its sameness, and
useless from its repetition.

On leaving Eboe we emerged from a com-
paratively winding and narrow stream bordered
by stagnant swamps and overgrown with im-
mense forests, the sameness of which distressed
the eye, while the extent baffled the imagina-
tion, into a wide and splendid river. The banks
were but thinly wooded, and in many places high-
ly and extensively cultivated. The various reaches
of the river became longer, and in its serpentine
course it assumed a more graceful character, while
the inhabitants on its banks were more civilised
and better apparelled. We found the better
class attired in the Houssa loose shirt and
trousers, instead of the common wrapper of
the Eboes. The country generally presented
that formed and decided appearance which
characterises land that has been long under
the dominion of man. The banks, although
elevated fifteen or twenty feet above the sur-
face of the river, continued flat until we arrived
at Kirree, where we met with the first bluff.
From thence the country gradually rises, until at
Attah it attains an elevation of from two to three
hundred feet. From Attah upwards a range

THE RIVER ABOVE EBOE. l6l

of hills on each bank of the river gives the
scenery a picturesque and bold character ; those
on the western bank seem to have the highest
elevation, but neither appeared to rise above
four hundred and fifty or five hundred feet
above the water. From the general outline of
these hills, and from the specimens of the rock
that we found being principally granite and
mica slate, we pronounced them of primitive
formation.

Passing through this romantic valley, which
extends from forty to fifty miles, we reached
the Kong Mountains, which on the banks of the
river rise to an elevation of between two and
three thousand feet. As far as we could ascer-
tain, they are composed principally of granite,
and have a bold and magnificent appearance.
The chasm through which the river passes
seemed about fifteen hundred yards wide, but
the channel of the river does not occupy more
than seven hundred.

It would not become me, with the very super-
ficial knowledge of geology that I possess, to
venture on an opinion of the convulsion of na-
ture that opened the passage through these
mountains. That it must have been beyond

VOL. I. M

162 DESCRIPTION OF

all human conception, is evident from the num-
ber of huge masses of granite of the most fan-
tastic shapes projecting out in the most sin-
gular positions in all directions. From the nar-
rowness of the gorge and the abrupt rise of
the mountains from the river, if future travellers
confirm the opinion of Dr. Briggs and myself
of the existence of the remains of an immense
crater on the eastern side of it, there may be
grounds for supposing that volcanic agency has
been the principal means employed ; but as
neither of us were able to land there, our
opinions must be considered as conjectural.

After passing the Kong Mountains, a beautiful

reach of the river, about fifteen miles long, with

an average width of three thousand yards,

stretches to the confluence of the Shary, where

there are several rocky islands. One of these

presents a most curious appearance, which I can

compare to nothing else than to that part of

Arthur's Seat called " Samson's Ribs," provided

they were laid horizontally and twisted in the

most fantastic curves. I observed that the bed

of the river was changed in its character after

leaving the alluvial soil. There were no mud

banks : they were now formed of coarse sand,

THE RIVER ABOVE EBOE. 163

which was continually shifting, — so much so,
that an anchor in a few days always became em-
bedded, and we never could get a kedge to hold
in our repeated attempts to get the vessel off.
Another peculiarity of these banks is their abrupt-
ness : frequently I have had four fathoms within
a foot of a bank on which there were not as many
feet of water, the current appearing to cut it
almost perpendicularly.

Both banks of the river are thickly studded
with towns and villages. I could count seven
from the place where we lay aground ; and be-
tween Eboe and the confluence of the rivers,
there cannot be less than forty, generally occur-
ring every two or three miles. The principal
towns are Attah and Addakudda ; and averaging
the inhabitants at one thousand for each town
and village, will, I think, very nearly give the
population of the banks. It may be rather below
the mark.

The general character of the people is much
superior to that of the inhabitants of the swampy
country between them and the coast. They are
shrewd, intelligent and quick in their perception,
milder in their dispositions, and more peaceable in
their habits. The security of life and property is

M 2

164 CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.

evidently greater among them ; though it is still
sufficiently precarious to prevent the inhabitants
from living in isolated situations, nor will any of
them venture upon the river after sunset in small
canoes. Agriculture is extensively followed, and
Indian corn and other grain are raised with little
labour and less skill on the part of the cultivators.
Tobacco is grown sparingly, and when dried and
made up for sale, costs one hundred cowries, or
one penny per pound. It has a mild, pleasant
flavour, and is made up in rolls in the Turkish
fashion. The natives are greatly addicted to
smoking, and use the long reed pipe common in
the Levant. The bowls of these pipes are neatly
manufactured of clay : a few copper pipes are
met with, that are brought from Fundah and
other towns on the Shary.

Beer or sweetwort is manufactured in large
quantities from Indian corn and other grain,
and markets for the exclusive sale of it are
held periodically.* That made from dhoura is
a pleasant, agreeable drink, but apt to produce
diarrhoea. — Yams, calavances, &c. are plenti-

* The stillness of the night was frequently broken by the
passing of canoes full of bons vivants returning from these
markets.

NATURAL PRODUCE. 165

ful, the former much inferior to those of Eboe.
The river abounds in fish to a degree that is
almost inconceivable, and the inhabitants of
the banks are expert and persevering fisher-
men. They make immense nets of grass, which
they use as seines with great dexterity. They
are very careful of their nets after using them,
and stretch them on poles to be dried by the sun
exactly as our fishermen do. The fish are split
by them and gutted, they are then dried by the
smoke of a wood fire, and form with farinaceous
food their principal means of subsistence. — Fruits
are not plentiful on the banks of the river : plan-
tains, bananas, limes, tamarinds, a species of
plum, and pine-apples, constitute the whole. The
latter are exceedingly scarce, and the former by
no means abundant.

The intercourse and trade between the towns
on the banks is very great, (I was surprised to
learn from Dr. Briggs that there appeared to be
twice as much traflSc going forward here as in
the upper parts of the Rhine,) the whole popu-
lation on the Niger being eminently of a com-
mercial character, men, women, and children
carrying on trade. The traffic in slaves, cloth,
and ivory is confined to the men ; everything else

166 MANUFACTURE AND TRADE.

being left to the other sex, who, to say the truth,
are far the most difficult to deal with.

Bocqua, or Hickory, as the natives call it, is
the centre of this traffic; and a fair of three days'
duration is held there every ten days, attended by
Eboe and Attah, and even Bonny traders from the
south, and those from Egga, Cuttum-CurafFee,
and Fundah on the north, besides great numbers
from the interior country on both banks of the
river. The traders from the upper country
bring cloths of native manufacture, beads, ivory,
rice, straw-hats, and slaves, all of which they sell
for cowries, and buy European goods, chiefly
Portuguese and Spanish. About twenty-five
large canoes passed us every ten days, on their
way to this market, each containing from forty
to sixty people. The trade is carried on by
money, not by barter : cowries are the circu-
lating medium, and their sterling value on an
average may be taken at one shilling per thou-
sand. The cowries are strung together in por-
tions of one and two hundreds, each portion be-
ing on a separate string ; but it is necessary to
count them, as the natives always endeavour to
cheat. The following extract from my trade

PRICES OF ARTICLES. 167

journal, will show in a clearer view the barter
trade : —

" Two scrivelloes, weighing eleven and a half
pounds, were bought for nine cotton handkerchiefs
and one cutlass, or about 4is. ^d. sterling.

" Two scrivelloes, weighing eighteen pounds,
for two yards scarlet cloth, one yard cotton velvet,
and four handkerchiefs; about 5s. 6d. sterling.

" One tooth weighing thirty pounds, — three
yards red cloth, and eleven thousand cowries, or
about 14.y. sterling.

" One tooth weighing forty-four pounds, — four
yards of red velvet, six yards of scarlet cloth;
about 16^. sterling.

" One tooth weighing thirty pounds, — four
yards scarlet cloth, one looking-glass ; about 7s.
sterling."

Hardware, powder, guns, Manchester cottons,
and earthenware were not saleable at prime
cost : red cloth, velvet, and mock coral beads
were principally in demand ; and next, looking-
glasses and snuff-boxes of Venetian manufacture,
I have stated the value of the goods at the
invoice price ; but the price paid for ivory is no
criterion of the value of the trade, as the quan-

168 THE IVORY TRADE.

tity is so small that the expense of collecting it
will prevent the success of any commercial en-
terprise dependent on that article alone. I have
been a month without having a single tooth
offered me for sale, and I believe the natives
never passed us when they had any to dispose of.
The trade is tedious and excessively trying
to the temper. A tooth is generally owned by
four or five individuals ; and as each acts inde-
pendently of his partners, it is generally brought
on board as many times before its actual sale.
I found the best plan was to offer them at once
one half of what they asked, and my offer was
generally accepted. The traders from the upper
country usually employed a broker named Mal-
1am Cantab, an inhabitant of Addakudda, to
trade for them, and paid him a regular com-
mission : in fact, the old rascal got paid on both
sides ; as I did not discover for some time that
this was the common practice of the country.
The best and most perfect ivory comes from the
Shary; the teeth from the Niger are almost
invariably broken at the end.

I have previously remarked that the indigo
is four-fifths dirt, and cannot in its present state
be considered as an article of commerce, al-

PRICE OF PROVISIONS. 169

though eventually it may become one of the
staple products of the country. I never met
with bees' wax in cakes ; but, from the abund-
ance of honey, it is not unlikely, if the natives
knew its real value, that it might be collected in
considerable quantities. A few ostrich-feathers
were offered me ; but they were badly preserved
and of a poor quality. Leopard-skins were
frequently offered us, but not in sufficient quan-
tities to be considered as an article of trade :
their price was from two thousand five hundred
to three thousand cowries.

The price of provisions varies considerably : we
purchased them principally from canoes, the
owners of which, I suppose, like bumboat women,
charged well for their trouble in bringing them
alongside. Bullocks cost from twelve to twenty
thousand cowries each, and weighed from sixty
to one hundred and twenty pounds ; goats were
from one thousand to one thousand five hundred
cowries, weighing from eight to fifteen pounds.
Fish we found very cheap : a handkerchief would
buy sufficient for a day's consumption. Rice is
bought in small grass bags, which hold about
two pounds : the price generally was one gun-
flint per bag ; — it is sweet, but badly cleaned ;

170 PRICE OF PROVISIONS.

yams are scarce and dear, and of a bad quality.
Fowls are plentiful at one hundred cowries
apiece ; and eggs are abundant, such as they
are, nineteen out of twenty being generally
rotten.

SCENERY BY MOONLIGHT. 171

CHAPTER VII.

Amusement on Board. — Reflections on the State of the Inhabit-
ants.— Native Catiaes. — Mr. Lander unsuccessful. — Change
in the Season. — Further Sickness. — Death of Dr. Briggs. —
Tribute to his Memory. — Departure for Fundah, the Quorra
left aground. — Arrival at Yimmahah. — Reports of the King
of Fundah. — Friendly Mallam. — Mode of thatching Huts.
— The Native Barber.

The life we led on board was monotonous in
the extreme, and if Dr. Briggs and myself had
not been well provided with books, would have
been more so. Whenever we were able to do it,
we were up at sunrise, and breakfasted at eight ;
at one we dined, and were generally in bed at
eight in the evening. Sleeping, as we always
did, on deck, we had frequent opportunities, after
retiring to rest, of contemplating the beautiful
scene which the river presented, as its noble
waters rolled silently andmajesticallyby us, when
lighted by a moon such as those only who have
been in the tropics can imagine. After a distress-
ing and enervating day, the approach of night

172 AMUSEMENT ON BOARD,

was always hailed by us with delight : its calm-
ness and tranquillity, its silent grandeur and its
beauty, made us for a time forget our own per-
sonal sufferings, and sometimes almost deem such
enjoyment cheaply purchased by them.

My mornings were generally passed in reading;
while Dr. Briggs studied Arabic. A game or two
at chess helped to pass the afternoon away, when
an attack of intermittent did not disable us from
attending to anything but our own miserable
bodies. The attacks of ague generally came on
at noon, and each successive one was invariably
half an hour later, until it arrived at six o'clock,
when it would leave me for two or three days
and then begin again at noon. This order was
repeated so often in my case, that I could tell to
a minute when it was coming on.

Shakspeare and Scott were my favourite au-
thors, and I can bear my humble testimony to
the value of the works of those great magicians
to such as " are sick and afar off." Many an
hour that would otherwise have been spent in
useless repining or melancholy foreboding, I
have passed not merely placidly, but happily,
in their perusal ; forgetting the present, living
in the past, and heedless of the future.

MR. M'QUEEN'S geographical ACCURACY. 173

Before leaving home I had purchased Black-
wood's Magazine from its commencement, and
was very much struck one day when looking over
it by a letter of Mr. McQueen's to Lord Goderich,
in which he recommended that the Benin, or
some of the numerous rivers that flow into the
sea between that river and the Calabar, should
be explored ; stating his reasons for supposing
that the Niger emptied itself into the sea by these
mouths. His opinion has been verified by ex-
perience ; and discovery has so fully proved the
accuracy of his descriptions, that it is difficult
to imagine that he must have been anywhere
than on the spot when he penned that memorable
letter, which will ever remain an evidence of his
sound judgment and geographical skill.*

Amongst our other employments, I should not
omit to mention our culinary labours, which
were in daily request. The meat which we
obtained was generally goat's-flesh, and as Dr.
Briggs and I agreed in taste, we claimed the
head and trotters for the cabin table, and either

* It may be truly said that the honour of the theory
belonged to Reichard ; but his opinion was founded on the
extent of alluvial deposit alone : it was strengthened and
confirmed by the additional evidence collected with so much
zeal and ability by Mr. M'Queen.

174 STATE OF THE INHABITANTS.

stewed or made them into a broth. Roast or
baked meat we found heavy and indigestible,
and we invariably stewed or boiled everything.
Coffee was our only beverage, of which we par-
took in large quantities during the day. On the
whole, we had reason to be thankful that we had
always abundance of the necessaries, as well as
not a few of the luxuries of life ; and on compar-
ing our condition with that of Park and other
travellers in the interior of Africa, we had ample
reason to congratulate ourselves on having a
roof to shelter us, and a bed on which we could
repose.

Since we had left Eboe, I had never any watch
kept at night, as I considered that we were
perfectly secure among these harmless and ami-
able people. I speak now of the character of
the lower and middle classes of them generally:
there are many exceptions to this character
among the chiefs ; but the lower classes are kind,
hospitable, and obliging. It is true they have
the faults and evil propensities of the negro,
being liars, cowards, and thieves : but they have
these qualities engrafted on a naturally good
disposition by a trade that would demoralise the
Scotch and make cowards of the English ; and

NATIVE CANOES. 175

it is some matter of wonder that the centuries
in which the slave-trade has been in existence
among them should have left them any good
qualities whatever.

In paddling their canoes, the natives have a
pleasing custom of singing ; and the distant
sound of their voices, as it falls on the ear, pro-
duces a very soothing effect. One of the canoe-
men, who is generally the steersman, and always
standing, leads the song ; and the whole crew
join in chorus, keeping time with their paddles
to the measure. On nearing our vessel, they
generally made us the subject of these effusions,
and never omitted standing up in the canoe, and
saluting us with a good-b'ye or a good-night in
the Houssa language as they passed, being the
language generally spoken by traders. The dis-
tance which they get over in these large canoes
is astonishing : they think nothing of paddling
for twenty-four hours without ceasing, except to
have refreshment for a very little while ; and by
taking advantage of the eddies of the river, with
which they are well acquainted, they will average
against the stream five miles an hour.

In the afternoon of the 5th February, I was
much surprised and annoyed on receiving a

176 FURTHER SICKNESS.

letter from Mr. Lander, informing me that there
was not sufficient depth of water for the Albur-
kah, and therefore that she could not proceed
to Rabbah and Boussa, as was intended. It
stated that Captain Hill had sounded the river,
and that he could walk across it.

For the last fortnight the weather had been
sultry and close : fortunately we had roofed the
Quorra in with long grass, and prepared for the
rainy season, which was fast approaching. We
had had two or three squalls, but no regular tor-
nadoes. The thermometer had varied from 82°
to 97° between seven in the morning and four in
the afternoon. The evenings now were no longer
pleasant and cool, and we found them even more
distressing than the days. Sickness had done its
work on us all. My boatswain, Harvey, was the
only man who had tolerable health ; the remain-
ing three seamen were confined constantly to
their hammocks. I was emaciated to the last
degree, while my joints were swelled to twice
their natural size, and excessive debility disabled
me from walking or even standing without as-
sistance. Dr. Briggs, although not so much re-
duced as I was, had one or two attacks of
dysentery, which alarmed me exceedingly. He

PROPOSED VOYAGE UP THE SHARY. 177

hfid been much on shore, being very anxious to
learn the Houssa language, and to become fami-
liarised with the habits and manners of the na-
tives, and I was apprehensive that the exertion
he had used would injure him.

Mr. Lander now proposed to send Pascoe
down the river with letters to the brig, which I
had no doubt he would accomplish without any
personal risk : and he informs me that the King
of Fundah is exceedingly anxious to see one of
the white men. In consequence of this, I enter-
tained an idea of going up the Shary, and gave
directions for the largest boat of the Quorra to
be fitted out, and a hurricane-house to be erect-
ed in the stern-sheets. Dr. Briggs was of opinion
that the change would benefit me, and that he
could take charge of the vessel till my return.

On the 8th of February we had a terrific tor-
nado, with its usual accompaniments. However,
it cleared the air, and the morning was much
cooler and pleasanter than any which we had expe-
rienced for some time previously. But the sudden
change of temperature was too much for my de-
bilitated frame, and it brought on a severe at-
tack of remittent fever, which lasted for several
days and had very nearly carried me off.

VOL. I. N

178 UNHEALTHY WEATHER.

On the 18th, Mr. Lander, who had been so
kind as to come down to the Quorra for two or
three days on hearing of my relapse, considering
that I was out of immediate danger, returned to
the Alburkah, having determined to accompany
me to Fundah as soon as I should be equal to
the exertion. I found from him that Mr. Jones,
the mate of the Alburkah, had died on the 7th,
after a relapse. The natives all agree that this
month is the most unhealthy, and that there was
now much sickness and mortality among them-
selves : many of the Kroomen even were complain-
ing. The weather was intensely hot, the ther-
mometer having been frequently at 99° for hours ;
and not a breath of wind tempered the heat dur-
ing the day, while the nights were moist and raw
without being cool.

Dr. Briggs became very ill with an attack of
dysentery, and removed his cot into the cabin,
thinking it cooler than on deck. Mr. Hector
being pretty well, was able in some measure to
attend him.

The fever had left me so exceedingly weak in
mind as well as body, that after Mr. Lander's
departure I lay on deck in a state of almost total
unconsciousness ; but I was painfully roused from

DEATH OF DR. BllIGGS. 179

my stupor by the death of my dear friend and
companion Dr. Briggs. On the 27th he was
brought up from the cabin, and I was shocked
to see the ravages which a few days' suffering had
made on him. He had never been much reduced
by his repeated attacks of fever ; but now so altered
was he, that I scarcely knew him. While shaking
hands with me, he assured me, with a weak but
cheerful voice, that he felt better, and forgetting
his own sufferings, anxiously inquired after mine.
We lay side by side for some hours, and he
pressed me much to go down into the cabin, as
he considered passing the evenings on deck very
unhealthy ; but I was incapable of moving my-
self, and afraid of being carried, my bones being
very prominent and excessively painful when
touched. At sunset he was carried down, being
then in severe pain, and I bade him farewell*
little thinking it was for the last time.

On the 28th the pain suddenly left him ; on
which he told Hector and Sarsfield, who were at-
tending him, that mortification had commenced,
desiring them at the same time not to tell me of
it till all was over. Soon after he expired with-
out a struggle, tranquilly yielding his spirit to
Him who gave it.

N 2

180 TRIBUTE TO THE MEMORY

I cannot describe the feeling of anguish and
desolation that came over me when I was told of
my bereavement. At first, I could scarcely be-
lieve the fact that my beloved friend was really
gone, and gradually sunk into a state of apathy
and indifference to all around, in which I conti-
nued for several weeks.

Thus died, in his twenty-eighth year. Dr.
Thomas Briggs. He was the eldest son of Dr.
Briggs of Liverpool. He was possessed of ex-
cellent abilities, which had been carefully culti-
vated by his parents from infancy. From the
Charter-house he went to Cambridge, where he
was unanimously elected to the Tancred medical
studentship of Caius College, which situation he
held for eight years, passing the whole of the
time in- colleges, hospitals, dispensaries, and dis-
secting-rooms, in Edinburgh, London, Dublin,
Paris, and Munich. In each university he was
distinguished by his unremitting diligence in the
acquisition of science, and equally so for the
amiable qualities which adorned his mind and
made him a general favourite wherever he was
known. During our tedious voyage, and espe-
cially since our entrance into the Niger, to me
liis society had been a source of constant grati-

OF DR. BRIGGS. 181

fication and delight ; and my obligations to him
for his judicious advice and kind attentions I can
never sufficiently express. The uncommon equa-
nimity of his temper, the total absence of all
selfishness, and his desire to make the best of
everything, rendered him a most invaluable
companion at all times; while his prudence and
judgment were of essential service to me on
many occasions.

It was a bitter addition to my sorrow, that I
had been instrumental, in a great measure, in
bringing him out with us. When I determined to
accompany the expedition, I wrote to him, then
at Cambridge, offering him the appointment of
medical officer to the expedition. He had re-
ceived my letter while at commons, retired from
table, and accepted the offer by return of post.
I knew his value at a sick-bed, as he had visited
and nursed me when I was labouring under a
malignant typhus fever in Edinburgh, in 1829;
I was acquainted with his value as a friend, as
I had known him from infancy, — as a man of
science, for I had witnessed the high ground
he had taken among men of his own standing ;
and I fondly hoped that we should have returned
home with our friendship more firmly cemented

182 DEPARTURE FOR FUNDAH.

by our sufferings and adventures in each other's
company, the remembrance of which would
then serve to add an additional zest to the en-
joyment of civilised society. His remains were
deposited in a lovely spot on the eastern bank
of the river, by Hector and Sarsfield, the only
white men who were able to pay him this last
sad office. It was a place to which he had often
resorted when well, and one which will ever re-
main sacred in my memory.

If my condition had been monotonous and tire-
some hitherto, it was now doubly so ; and, anxi-
ous to quit a scene which kept alive so many
distressing recollections, as soon as I recovered
my composure, I hurried on the preparations
for ray voyage up the Shary, and in the latter
end of March, taking with me seven Kroomen,
two boys, and Thomas Sarsfield, I was lifted
into the boat. A hurricane-house, which was
water-tight, had been built up abaft, sufficient
to hold two persons very comfortably ; and a tar-
paulin cover had been prepared for the Kroomen
and the goods. I left Harvey in charge of the
vessel, and Hector in charge of the goods, hav-
ing great confidence in both, and departed on
my voyage to Fundah.

VISIT TO MR. LANDER. 183

In a few hours I reached the Alburkah, and
found that Mr. Lander was living on shore in a
hut which the Kroomen had built. I was carried
there, and was sorry to find Mr. Lander much
reduced by dysentery. I had not seen him for
six weeks, and we both had a great deal to say to,
and to hear from, each other. Another quarrel,
it appears, had taken place with the natives, who
had attempted to attack Mr. Lander's hut, and in
the skirmish that had ensued several had been
wounded. Provisions were scarce, and ivory
scarcer. This did not look very cheering, and
I advised Mr. Lander to drop the Alburkah down
to the Quorra, as the natives were not quarrel-
some there, and we had a sufficient supply of
provisions brought alongside ; or else, that he
should make another attempt to get up to Kab-
bah. I remained on shore two days, and cer-
tainly never envied a man so much the use of
his legs as I did Lieut. Allen, who was in excel-
lent health, and riding out morning and evening.
Captain Hill was unwell, and remained on board
his vessel : he appeared dropsical and low-spirited.
I gave him some good advice and some clothes
— the latter of which he accepted, but I doubt
whether he profited much by the former.

184 MAIN BRANCH OF THE SHARY.

Finding that Mr. Lander was unwilling to
move in the state he was in, I determined on
proceeding alone to visit Fundah, of which town
we had heard so much, and so many favourable
accounts. Mr. Lander promised to follow me up
as soon as a remission of his complaint would
allow him, and gave orders to my mate, Harvey,
who had accompanied me to the Alburkah, to get
the cutter fitted with a hurricane-house for the
purpose. I engaged a man belonging to a neigh-
bouring village to pilot me to Yimmahah, which
was represented as the port of Fundah, for six
thousand cowries, and started on my expedition
in the early part of a delightful morning.

The main branch of the Shary is from three
quarters of a mile to a mile wide at the conflu-
ence ; but after a vain attempt to find a passage
through the numerous sandbanks that choke its
mouth in the dry season, we were obliged to re-
enter the Niger, and ascend it for about two
miles ; when we came to a narrow creek, with
three or four fathoms of water in it. This creek
intersects the rich alluvial soil thrown up by the
united streams of the rivers in the form of a
horse-shoe. This delta is also intersected by
numerous other creeks. After passing the Al-

ARRIVAL AT YIMMAHAH. 185

burkah, I was very particular in directing sound-
ings to be taken, and we found two fathoms
where Captain Hill had reported that he could
walk across. Either the bed of the river had
sunk, or he must have been mistaken in his sound-
ings. On re-entering the main stream, we found
an average depth of two fathoms, and the cur-
rent very rapid ; — indeed so rapid was it, that
the Kroomen could not stem it with their oars,
and were obliged to " track " the boat, in nau-
tical phraseology, or tow her by a line.

After a tedious navigation of seven days, we
arrived at Yimmahah, having passed a consi-
derable number of villages on both banks. At
one of these, called Fundykee, I was obliged to
pay the chief a small due, which he levies on all
canoes passing his town. Here I discharged the
man whom I had engaged as pilot; paying him
his cowries, and giving him a good sound flog-
ging for imposing on me, as it appeared that he
knew nothing about the river.

In the evenings I generally came to, off a vil-
lage, and after supper allowed the Kroomen to
go on shore with their drum, which seldom fail-
ed to set the heels of the whole population in
motion. We obtained plenty of provisions from

¥^

186 INVITATION FROM THE CHIEF.

the villagers, who were always delighted to see
us, and to feel a white man, — for feel him they
must, before they will be satisfied that he is not
whitewashed for the occasion.

The course of the river to Yimmahah is E.
half N by compass. It was now the height of
the dry season ; but, as far as I can judge, there
are two fathoms' water in the channel, which is
dangerous only from its sudden windings and
rapid current at this season.

Yimmahah, where we arrived in the evening,
is beautifully situated on the top of nearly a per-
pendicular rock. At the time that we visited it,
a sandbank extended about a mile from its foot,
at the extremity of which were erected a great
number of temporary huts, the inhabitants of
which were occupied in catching and drying fish.

On my arrival, the chief of the village came
down immediately to welcome me, and informed
me that he had given up part of his own house
for my accommodation. Being tired of the con-
finement of the boat, I accepted his invitation;
and was carried on shore in a hammock sus-
pended from a pole, which was borne by two of
my Kroomen. We got on well enough until we
reached the foot of the hill on which the town is

VILLAGE OF YIMMAHAH. 187

situated, the only approach to which is by an
almost perpendicular ladder of rocks. By lash-
ing the hammock to the pole, they managed to
carry or rather to hand me up, but not with-
out damage, as I was severely bruised about the
shoulders and hips. On arriving in the town
I was much exhausted, and for the first time
since my sickness, a period of nearly five months,
took some brandy. I had abstained from both
wine and spirits, or other stimulants of any kind,
from a mistaken notion that they were injurious :
I am convinced that on that night a strong dose
of brandy and opium saved my life.

In the morning I despatched a messenger to
Fundah, distant about thirty miles, to inform
the king of my arrival, and desiring hi. ^ to send
an escort and carriers for my goods.

Yimmahah is situated on a hill which na-
turally is almost impregnable. It is separated
from the main land by deep ravines, and presents
a perpendicular face to the river, accessible only
by the natural ladder of rocks to which I have
alluded. In addition to its natural defences, it
is protected by a wall and ditch ; and on the
eastern side a causeway is built or thrown up
over the ravine, with a temporary bridge of wood

188 REPORTS OF THE KING OF FUNDAH.

across the ditch from the gate of the town to the
causeway. The town contains about three thou-
sand people ; but the chief assured me, that be-
fore it was burnt by the present King of Fun-
dah, it contained ten thousand inhabitants. A
romantic kind of story, which I heard here of this
King of Fundah, did not give me a very favour-
able impression of his character. The account
said, that he is the youngest of five brothers,
two of whom he poisoned ; and another, in order
to avoid his cruelty, had committed suicide :
the remaining one fled to this town, and was
beheaded by his brother, after a war that con-
tinued for some years, and by which the country
was desolated, all trade destroyed, and the cara-
vans from Kano and Bornou to this part of the
country interrupted. I do not vouch for the
truth of this story, although it was confirmed
by several people afterwards : I only " tell the
tale as it was told to me." I also heard va-
rious accounts of the King's rapacity and cruelty
towards traders ; but, as I had gone so far, I
was determined to proceed, feeling confident
that the accounts were much exaggerated, and
being anxious to visit a city that had only been
heard of, like the mysterious Timbuctoo, through

MODE OF THATCHING HUTS. 189

the obscure and contradictory accounts of the
natives.

During my stay at Yimmahah, I was treated
with the greatest deference and respect by the
inhabitants, and at last got so intimate, that the
children would even shake hands with me. An
old Mallam, who was the owner of some extensive
dyeing works, and reputed the richest man in
the place, was my constant companion, and from
him I learnt much of the state of trade in the in-
terior. He confirmed my opinion, that formerly
there was a direct communication between Kano
and other towns in the interior and this part by
Cafilas, and that the rapacity and extortion of
the King of Fundah had put a stop to it. I
must do this old gentleman the justice to state,
that he strongly dissuaded me from going to
Fundah, saying very truly, '' If the king has
ivory, he can send it to you here, and not trouble
you to go to him."

In the course of my stay at Yimmahah, my
attention was much struck by the rapidity with
which they thatch their houses. The process is
simply as follows : — A pole is placed upright on
the ground to form the apex of the roof. A cir-
cle is traced on the ground by a string from this

190 chief's apartments.

pole ; and the framework of the roof, extending
from the top to all parts of the circle, is tied
together with grass ropes and interwoven with
twigs. It is then raised and placed upon the
walls of the house for which it is intended ; and
the thatch, which is composed of grass carefully
dried^ is laid on in a manner equally as neat as
that of the best thatched English cottage. I
have frequently seen a roof of this kind, and
considerable in point of size, begun and finish-
ed, thatch and all, in two days. The tops of
the principal huts are generally ornamented with
a ventilator of a fantastic shape, surmounted by
a straw figure of a cock.

The hut in which I resided was the entrance
to the chief's apartments, which consisted of
seven separate huts connected by a wall, one of
which was appropriated for our goods, and the
rest were occupied by his family. While remain-
ing here I had my head shaved, or rather clipped,
and my beard trimmed, by a country barber, who,
like his brethren in other parts of the world, had
a vast deal to say for himself. I learned from
him, that I was in a fair way of being the lion of
the day in Fundah, — that the whole town was
on the tiptoe of expectation, and that he himself

A NATIVE BARBER. 191

had come over on purpose to see me, in order to
gratify the curiosity of his customers. He was
an expert operator, and clipped my head with a
pair of scissors of native manufacture nearly as
close as if it had been shaved, besides shaving
the upper part of my face with a razor of the
country. He used country soap, which produced
a strong and agreeable lather ; and I was exceed-
ingly amused at the reverence which he paid to
my beard during the whole operation, frequently
indulging in expressions of admiration of it, and
assuring me with the utmost earnestness that
there was not such another in the country.

192 MESSENGERS FROM

CHAPTER VIII.

Messengers from the King of Fundah. — Embark in a Canoe
for that City. — Difficulties of the Passage. — Arrive at Po-
tingah, and pass on to Fundah. — Native Curiosity. — Visit
from the King. — The Visit returned. — Inconvenient Lodg-
ings.— The Court of Fundah and its Inmates. — Sarsjield
sent to Yimmahah. — The Barber Physician and his Wife.
— An Amateur Beau.

On the 4th of April, to my great relief, the
messengers of the King of Fundah arrived. They
were eighteen in number, and came galloping into
the town on small high-spirited horses. Instead
of coming direct to me, they went to a house at
some distance, and sent a messenger to say that
they would wait on me. Shortly after, they made
their appearance, galloping up in rotation to
the doorway and there dismounting; they each
bent down and put my foot on their heads, and
threw dust over themselves. Having finished
this salute, they became seated, and their leader
opened the palaver by saying that the king his

THE RING OF FUNDAH. 193

master had sent him, his chief warrior to escort
me to his capital, where I should find everything
I wanted, &c. ; and that, lest I should starve
by the way, he had sent me a dash of some
goats and yams. My reply was in presents ; but
I expressed at the same time my annoyance at
the delay which had been show^n and my deten-
tion thereby, and that as I was unable to sit on
horseback, I should require bearers for my ham-
mock.

This, however, I found much easier to ask
than to obtain ; and although I had concluded
our palaver with the request, and expended three
more days in further palavering, it was all in
vain — no bearers appeared. However, 1 disco-
vered that in a small canoe I could get within
nine miles of Fundah, and from thence be car-
ried there by my Kroomen. I therefore con-
sented to compromise the matter with them,
and determined that Sarsfield should go over-
land with them in charge of the goods I intend-
ed to take with me. I sent my Kroomen also
with him, armed with muskets and cutlasses, in
case of treachery, each having twenty rounds of
ball cartridge. I left two Kroomen in charge of
the launch and part of the goods ; and with the

VOL. I. o

194 EMBARK FOR FUNDAH.

remainder I embarked in a canoe, accompanied
by one of the black boys as interpreter.

Although I had found it difficult enough to
get into Yimmahah, I had no trouble in getting
out of it, as the old Mallam mounted me on the
shoulders of one of the natives, and telling me to
hold on by his ears, led the way down the preci-
pitous face of the rock, my carrier following him
and leaning on his shoulders. I shut my eyes
and held fast, and was most happy when we had
reached the bottom safely, as a single false step
would assuredly have been fatal to both of us.
My bearer trotted across the sandbank with my
long legs dangling round his neck, amidst the
laughter of his companions, great numbers of
whom had assembled to witness my departure.
The canoe which I embarked in was about
twenty-five feet long, pulled by four men, who,
with one of the Fundah messengers, completed
my crew.

We started at midnight, and had proceeded
only a short distance when, to my great surprise,
the canoemen pulled in to the shore, landed, and
deliberately left me in the canoe with my boy
while they repaired to some huts for the purpose
of sleeping. It was in vain that I remonstrated

BAD CONDUCT OF CANOEMEN. 195

with them on this proceeding, asserting that they
had agreed for additional pay to proceed during
the night, that I might avoid the dreadful heat of
the day ; — I was completely in their power ; and
as there was no alternative but that of submit-
ting, I desired the boy to make a large fire on
the bank, and, lighting my pipe, contrived to
smoke myself into something like equanimity.
In the morning the canoemen returned ; and as
grumbling was of no use, I endeavoured to coax
them into a little extra exertion by purchasing
provisions for them.

As we proceeded up the river, I was much
struck by the size of it. We passed immense
sandbanks, which as they are covered when the
river is swollen, it must then afford a magnificent
prospect. In the afternoon we arrived at a small
creek, which we had great difficulty in entering,
and again stopped for the night. My crew this
time had the civility to pass their night's rest
close to me, taking the precaution to make two
immense fires to keep off the wild beasts, which,
they said, were numerous in that neighbourhood.
One of the crew also kept watch, and was reliev-
ed in the night by his companions.

In the morning we again proceeded. The

o 2

196 ARRIVAL AT POTINGAH.

small river into which we had entered runs in
a north-north-east direction, and is exceedingly
shallow. Twice we were obliged to land the goods,
and drag the canoe over a kind of rapid with a
sandy bottom. The heat was excessive, and I suf-
fered much : my face was burnt terribly, and my
hands and feet were blistered and swelled. The
canoe was without cover, and my exposure to
the full power of the sun literally distracted
me with pain. In vain I intreated the canoe-
men to pull in towards the side of the river
that we might be sheltered by the trees : the
boy that I had as an interpreter became fright-
ened, and would not speak ; and the men, I be-
lieve, thought me deranged. A few hours more of
such suffering would have made them right, for
assuredly it would have brought on a brain fever.
The agony which I endured on that day, I can
only compare to the sufferings of a person roast-
ing before a slow fire. My only relief was by
wrapping myself up in a thick blanket ; and this
was a miserable alternative, the feeling of suffo-
cation being about as bad as that of burning.

In the afternoon we reached Potingah, where
I had the satisfaction of finding Sarsfield, who
had arrived the day before. He had been much

ROAD FROM POTINGAH TO FUNDAH. 197

alarmed at my not having appeared sooner, and
was overjoyed to meet me again. He had receiv-
ed the greatest civility from his escort, but, like
most sailors, had experienced quite enough of
horse exercise. After taking some coffee, I went
into my hammock, and, accompanied by a caval-
cade of about twenty horsemen, set out for Fun-
dah, distant about nine miles. My Kroomen were
obliged to carry me, as the natives objected to
carrying a white man, alleging that they were
not horses. I offered three times as much as I
gave them for carrying the goods, but to no pur-
pose ; they still repeated that they were men,
and not horses.

The road from Potingah to Fundah is nearly
due north, and, with the exception of three
ravines with a little water in the bottom of each,
is an excellent bridle-road. These ravines are
impassable in the rainy season, and a detour is
then made to the northward, the road run-
ning along the declivity of a range of hills,
which, beginning at the confluence of the Shary
and Niger, runs parallel to the river at the dis-
tance of seven or eight miles. The country was
cleared and appeared well cultivated. On emerg-
ing from a ravine, we entered fhe plain on which

198 RECEPTION AT FUNDAH.

the town stands, and having arrived within a
short distance of its walls, we halted until the
king was informed of our approach.

It was midnight, and a splendid moon threw
every object into bold relief. Even at this late
hour an immense crowd had assembled outside
the walls, quite in corroboration of the barber's
evidence as to the state of public curiosity. Af-
ter waiting some little time, during which we
were visited by several Mallams, we entered the
town, and were conducted to a miserable hovel
in the centre of it, accompanied by a mob of both
sexes desirous of seeing and touching a white
man. I cannot say much for the civility of our
first reception. It was nearly daylight before we
got rid of our tormentors, and were allowed that
repose which the fatigues and excitement of the
day had rendered so necessary. Among other
annoyances, they thrust a disgusting Albino close
to me, and asked if he was my brother !

In the morning we were removed to a hut in
some respects superior to our first abode, but
unfortunately situated, inasmuch as it was open
to a wide street, which was filled from daylight
with a crowd whose curiosity it was impossible
to satisfy, and from whose tongues proceeded a

VISIT FROM THE KING. 199

Babel of noise and clamour which it is quite
laughable to think of now, although it was suf-
ficiently annoying at the time.

About ten in the morning, the king's chief
eunuch came to see our packages of goods ex-
amined, in order that we might be satisfied that
our conductors had taken nothing. On finding
everything right, I made a present to each of
the escort and bearers far beyond their expecta-
tions. In the afternoon I was visited by the
king, who was attended by a great number of
eunuchs and a cavalcade of about a dozen
horsemen. He was splendidly dressed in silk
and velvet robes, and appeared to be a man of
immense size. His countenance is by no means
prepossessing, particularly his eyes, which are of
a dirty red colour, having a sinister and forebod-
ing expression. I presented him with a brass-
mounted sword, an umbrella five feet in diameter
highly ornamented, a brace of pistols, and seve-
ral other things, and then informed him through
my interpreter that I had come from a great dis-
tance to look at him in the face, and to hold a
good palaver with him ; that his messengers had
informed me it was his desire to see the face of
a white man, and trusting to his good faith, I

200 PALAVER WITH THE KING.

had come, though ill and unable to walk ; that I
was anxious to give him our goods for ivory, and
had brought with me a great quantity for that
purpose.

Having finished my speech, he rose, and said in
the Houssa language, that he was glad to see the
face of a white man — it was what he had long
wished for ; that he had abundance of ivory, and
that all that he had was mine : to which senti-
ments twelve grey-headed negroes, who appeared
to form his privy council, bowed assent. I then
complained of the reception which I had met
with, the miserable hut in which I was lodged,
and requested that I might be provided with
another in a more private situation immediately.
To all this he readily assented, and moved off
amidst a horrible din of trumpets, drums, and a
kind of fife-music. — But I had yet to learn
a lesson : it seems that everything which the
nether end of this royal personage touches is
sacred, and has the broad aiv^ow affixed upon it.
As soon as the king rose from his seat, v/hich most
unfortunately happened to have been the tin-box
that contained my clothes, covered with a Turkey
rug, his attendants deliberately shouldered my
unfortunate box, and strode off after their mas-

THE VISIT RETURNED. 201

ter. This was rather too much, and before they
had got out of the yard, they were happily stop-
ped by two of my Kroomen, and after a long
altercation gave up the box, but detained the rug.

In the evening I had a visit from a man whose
face I thought was not new to me, and a lady
who assured me she was the king's mother, and
to whom it was intimated that I should give a
present. A looking-glass and a cake of Wind-
sor soap satisfied her, but not her companion,
who became abusive, and was at length bundled
off by ray Kroomen. A most horrible noise pre-
vented me from getting any sleep until nearly
daylight : my boy Friday told me in the morn-
ing that it had been occasioned by a dance at
the king's house, which was close by ; adding, that
as such was a favourite amusement, it might be
expected frequently.

On the following morning, I was carried to the
king's house to return his visit, but was only al-
lowed to enter the outer court-yard, which is about
forty feet wide, with a verandah on the side next .
to the house. Under this verandah I was placed,
and in a short time the very man who had been
turned out of my hut by my Kroomen the night
before came and sat down by my side. After

202 MISTAKE RESPECTING THE KING'S IDENTITY.

some conversation, I asked for the king ; on which
he said that he was the king! This was too
much for me to believe, until he went through
a gateway and returned in a few minutes with
his stomacher and his splendid robes on. After
laughing heartily at my astonishment, he asked
for the carpet on which 1 was seated, and which
I refused him, having no other. After some
angry words on both sides, he went off in a
pet, and I returned to my hut in any but a
pleasant state of mind. On inquiry of the
owner of my hut, he informed me, and I after-
wards found it to be the case, that on all great
occasions it is customary for the king and his
attendants to puff themselves out to a ridiculous
size with cotton wadding; and this fully ex-
plained the mistake I was under with regard to
the king's identity. On his first visit he appear-
to be an immense-sized personage, and could
not even rise from his seat without assistance.
When he visited me mcog. he w^as a raw-boned,
active-looking man.

Sarsfield, who had been hunting over the town
for a desirable house, informed me that he had
found an excellent one, belonging to a Houssa
woman, and I determined to take possession of

INCONVENIENT LODGINGS. 203

it, as there was no appearance of the king's sup-
plying us with another. In the morning I was
carried up to my new lodgings, which I found
clean and roomy in comparison with those I
had left. The proprietor of them was a widow
who was reputed to be rich, and she welcomed
me to them with much kindness.

I had just time to congratulate myself on the
change, when Sarsfield came hurrying in with
terror and dismay in his countenance, saying that
the king had seized the goods that were left at
the other hut — that he had taken them all into
his own house, and was threatening vengeance
on us all for daring to change our residence
without his permission. This was confirmed by
my hospitable landlady being seized by some
eunuchs, and forthwith carried before the king to
be punished for receiving us. As I considered
all this a mere pretext for seizing our goods, I
determined on remonstrating with him person-
ally on this breach of hospitality and good faith.
I was accordingly carried down to his court, and
took my seat under the verandah, near my land-
lady, who was crying bitterly and tearing her
hair, having been put in irons preparatory to
being flogged.

204 MENACED BY THE KING.

After waiting a quarter of an hour, in rushed
his sable majesty, and coming up to me com-
menced a volley of abuse, which it was perhaps
as well that I did not understand, as I was al-
ready sufficiently exasperated against him. In
the course of his hurried harangue, he repeatedly
drew his hand across his own throat, using at
the same time various significant gestures, with
the view, I concluded, of intimidating me. But
I had been too long among negroes, and too
well initiated in their character, to feel the least
alarmed at his proceedings; and just as he con-
cluded, Sarsfield brought in my Kroomen all
armed. They had no sooner made their appear-
ance than a change was produced in the tone and
manner of the king ; he became at once mode-
rate in his proceedings, and the palaver happily
ended in a more peaceable way than its com-
mencement seemed to promise. It was agreed
that I should give up my new lodgings, and
remain within the outer walls of his house in two
huts and a large court-yard, beyond which I was
not to go without his permission. In return for
this compliance on my part, he consented, though
with a very ill grace, to release my unfortunate

ins PALACE. 205

landlady, who, I think, will require not a little
persuasion before she again lets her house to a
white man.

As I was now established in the court of the
King of Fundah's palace, I may describe it. — It
consists of nothing more than an immense as-
semblage of circular huts, surrounded by a mud-
wall about fifteen feet high and three feet thick.
Through this wall there are three principal gate-
ways, besides several doorways which open into
an outer court : beyond this court strangers are
not permitted to enter, but, from the account of
my boy Friday, who was in the interior several
times, it is merely an open space surrounded by
small huts, in each of which reside one or more
of the king's wives. The whole is in the form of
a horse-shoe, and covers a space of about nine
or ten acres. The part allotted to us consisted of
two huts of about twenty feet diameter, with a
verandah projecting about five feet from the
walls, and a court-yard about thirty feet wide.
A door was broken in the outer wall for our use,
and the doors that communicated from the huts
to the inner space were carefully stopped up
with brick. Our court-yards were separated

206 DISAPPOINTMENT AT FUNDAH.

from the king's by a wall, but a doorway allowed
free communication.

The huts and verandahs allotted to us were
in bad repair and swarming with vermin of all
sorts : but by hanging my hammocks between the
posts that supported the verandahs, I kept tolera-
bly clear of those that crawl upon the face of the
earth : to the winged annoyances I was pretty
well inured.

After being in my new quarters a few days, I
began to suspect that my Fundah trip would
turn out an unprofitable speculation, as two or
three natives had been severely flogged for at-
tempting to sell me some ivory, and the king,
who visited me every day, evidently had none, —
or if he had, thought it" better to keep it and my
goods also. I had, in short, been completely
decoyed, and had only myself to blame, as I had
put myself entirely in the king's power, and, from
my excessive debility and emaciated condition,
was evidently becoming an object of contempt
to men who pride themselves above all things
on their personal appearance, and also consider
rotundity of figure as a sure sign of rank and
condition. In addition to my skeleton-like ap-
pearance, I was suffering under a complaint

RESIDENCE AT THE COURT. 207

called craw-craw, with which I had been infected
in the small canoe when on the way from Yim-
mahah to Potingah. Compared with this the
disorder called the " Scotch fiddle " must appear
a pleasing titillation, as, when a fit came on, it
threw me almost into convulsions : this induced
a nervous irritability, which in my weak state
was at once pitiable and laughable, and tended, I
have no doubt, to lower me in the opinion of the
natives.

Sarsfield, who enjoyed excellent health, and
consequently much better temper, was compa-
ratively well treated, but, having a smooth chin,
was considered as a boy. Our time hung hea-
vily on our hands, and a description of one day's
proceedings would nearly serve for all : — At day-
break we enjoyed about two hours' delightful
repose, between the cessation of the plague of
mosquitoes and the commencement of that of
flies. At eight o'clock the king sent us our
allowance of yams for the day, and the process
of cooking them for our breakfast whiled away
an hour or two. From that time until sunset
we had a succession of visitors, whom the king
admitted through the gateway, and, I verily
believe, made a regular charge for it. To see

208 RESIDENCE AT THE COURT.

US eat was the summit of curiosity with the
natives ; and if they could manage to work me
into a passion, — which, I am ashamed to say was
too easily done, — their delight was beyond mea-
sure. After being subject to this annoyance for
some time, I threatened to shoot any one who
came into my court without my permission ; and
the king seeing I was in earnest, stopped the
street that led down to my quarters, and during
the remainder of my stay no one could enter
without my being made aware of it.

After sunset the most diabolical noises com-
menced in all quarters of the town, but parti-
cularly in the court next to mine, where the
king's musicians, as they called themselves, per-
formed every night. The band was made up of
native drums, fifes, triangles, and trumpets, and
effectually prevented me from obtaining any rest
until two or three in the morning : and if to this
be added the annoyance from myriads of mos-
quitoes, whose everlasting hum was to me ten
times more painful than the severest bite ; the
constant screeching of those African scavengers,
the Turkey buzzards ; the legion of ants, which,
justifying Solomon's praise of them, are con-
stantly on the watch for anything living or dead ;

RESIDENCE AT THE COURT. 209

the squadrons of enormous rats, that immediately
after sunset commence their evolutions beneath
one ; and the croaking of thousands of bull-frogs
from a neighbouring wood, some idea may be
formed of the pleasures attendant on a visit to an
African court.

I saw a great deal of the king ; indeed I had
far more of his company than I desired. He
generally came to me in the afternoon, attended
by several eunuchs and boys, who carried the
keys of his various huts. His occupation, when
with me, was to ridicule my weakness, and mimic
my attempts to walk ; for I had so far recovered
as to walk a few steps with the assistance of two
sticks. I cannot describe the disgust I had of
this man's presence ; and if he had persevered in
his behaviour, I should certainly have shot him
in some moment of irritation, as he stood before
me. To my repeated applications for horses to
remove myself and my goods, he only replied
that his gods would not allow him to part with
me. It was with difficulty that I prevailed on
him to permit Sarsfield and the Kroomen to
return, under pretence of bringing more goods
from the vessels. I kept a Krooman named
" Pea Soup ;" a mulatto, named Smith, who was

VOL. I. p

210 SARSFIELD'S DEPARTURE FOR YIMMAHAH.

ill of dysentery, and my two boys, as my attend-
ants, and gave Sarsfield directions to proceed
down the river, and retm-n as soon as possible
with some articles I was much in want of. My
small supply of coffee had been long exhausted,
and I was in want of some medicines for Smith
and myself. He was also directed to bring some
rockets and blue lights, and to arm the Kroomen
with pistols and cutlasses as well as muskets. I
wrote by him to Mr. Lander, stating my situation,
and begging him to bring the Alburkah a short
distance up the Shary, in order to receive me if
I succeeded in getting away, but on no account
to allow the white men to return with Sarsfield.
I had been rather surprised at Mr. Lander not
coming up after me, as he had promised, but
concluded that he still continued indisposed.

Sarsfield set out in good spirits at day-break,
and, although the king had promised him a horse,
he refused to let him have one, in consequence of
which he was obliged to walk to Yimmahah, and
I was left alone to " chew the cud of sweet and
bitter fancy" until his return. Smith, the mu-
latto, was very ill with dysentery ; and the day
after Sarsfield's departure I was seized with the
same complaint, and for several days was exceed-

KINDNESS OF AFRICAN WOMEN. 211

ingly ill. A native disciple of Esculapius cured
me with raw rice ground very fine, and mixed
with water. After drinking great quantities of
this mixture the complaint gradually ceased, and
I astonished my physician by giving him a fee,
which, though trifling in itself, was to him an
invaluable treasure, — it was merely a case of
razors, — for the physician was no other than my
friend the barber.

Smith would not take his medicine, and was
very ill. I heard of Sarsfield's arrival at Yim-
mahah, and his departure down the river, from
my doctor, who was the very " Times " itself of
Fundah ; and his wife was no less communicative.
The rice which I took was mixed up and brought
to me by this lady, who, to prove its harmless-
ness, was in the habit of stirring it round
with her fingers, and drawing them through
her mouth before presenting it to me to drink.
However, she was a good creature, and I may
here add my testimony to that of all African
travellers to the uniform kindness of the women.
In my case the sentiment of pure compassion
was unalloyed by any personal consideration, as
I was anything but an agreeable object, and had
a most irritable temper ; yet, at the hazard of

p 2

212 FEAR OF POISON.

being flogged if discovered, they supplied me
with eggs, fowls, and sometimes butter-milk,
and never did I receive from them anything but
kindness and pity.

My tormentor visited me daily during my ill-
ness, which lasted about eight days, and I could
not help thinking that he was watching like a
vulture for the moment that my breath left my
body, to be able to pounce upon my goods. I
was not at all afraid of his taking them by force,
as he knew that I had two barrels of gunpowder ;
and I had told him, that if he attempted such a
thing I would blow his whole town about his
ears-; nor was I apprehensive of his personal vio-
lence, as I felt convinced that he dare not at-
tempt it, from his superstitious dread of the
power of a white man ; but I must confess that
the thought of being poisoned haunted me in-
cessantly : it is a horrid, disagreeable, sickening
kind of feeling, the idea of being poisoned; but
unfortunately, it is very commonly practised by
the chiefs, and suits the cowardly nature of
tyrants. I used great precaution, taking care
always to cook my own victuals, as, after Sars-
field had left me, I had no one in whom I could
place any confidence. My boys were made so

AN AMATEUR BEAU. 213

much of by the king, that they both became per-
fectly independent of me ; and knowing my in-
ability to move, and keeping carefully out of my
reach, would rob me of cowries before my face,
to supply their extravagance. Friday, who was
a good-looking lad, was quite a lady-killer, and
would take himself off every morning to the bar-
ber's shop, to get his black woolly head dressed
in the most recent fashion (an exquisite of Fun-
dah must have his hair dressed every day). Mr.
Friday's next occupation was smoking his pipe
and relating stories, wonderful no doubt, about
Sierra Leone and the Havannah, to the admiring
crowd of natives, who would collect about him.
His amourettes repeatedly got him into scrapes ;
but " the more danger the more glory," seemed
to be his motto, and he was altogether incorri-
gible, although heavy damages were frequently
levied on his shoulders, which in England would
have fallen on his purse.

214 APPROACH OF THE RAINY SEASON.

CHAPTER IX.

Approach of the Rainy Season. — Return of Sarsjield — Pre-
text for Departure — Credulity and Terror of the King. —
Preparations for leaving Fundah. — Description of the City.
— Its Population, 8^c. — Character of the King. — Amuse-
ments of Fundah. — Its Manufactures. — The River Shary.
— Opinion respecting its Source,

The rainy season was now fast approaching,
and tornadoes occurred almost every night. The
thatch of the verandah under which I lay admit-
ted the rain in all directions ; and having no
water-proof covering to my hammock, I was fre-
quently soaked before morning. I did what I
would recommend others to do in a similar situ-
ation, that is, to smoke continually, and take
large doses of opium ; and at sunrise spread
everything out to dry. After one of these tor-
nadoes I had a narrow escape, which I shall not
easily forget. It was my custom, at sunrise, to
be lifted out of my hammock, and laid on a

VENOMOUS SNAKE. 215

mat while my blankets were dried. One morn-
ing, on calling my boys, they discovered a small
black snake coiled up beneath my hammock,
and, telling me of it, and that it was exceeding-
ly venomous, off they scampered to fetch some of
the natives. I looked over the side of my ham-
mock, and about three feet below me lay the crea-
ture, about a yard long, with his head in the cen-
tre of the coil, his eyes peering about, evidently
bent on mischief. For two hours we remain-
ed in this enviable position, while about twenty
of the natives were grouped in the court-yard,
chattering, and pointing to the snake, and I not
in the best of humours alternately entreating
and threatening them for not removing it.
My good genius, however, appeared at last in
the shape of an old woman, who killed it, by
piercing it to the ground with a forked stick.
The natives assured me it was most venomous,
and, from their dread of it, I fully believed it
was the case. It was the first and only venom-
ous creature I met with in the country.

I had begun to be seriously alarmed about
Sarsfield, when to my great relief, he arrived on
the fourteenth day after his departure. To my
utter astonishment, I learnt from him that Mr.

216 RETURN OF SARSFIELD.

Lander had gone down the river in a canoe !
with Captain Hill of the Alburkah, without in-
forming any one of his intention : that Lieute-
nant Allan, had had an attack of brain fever,
and in his delirium had stabbed the cook of the
Alburkah, who was not expected to recover :
that the Alburkah had lost one seaman by
dysentery, and that the Quorra's crew were
better. All this was confirmed by a letter from
Mr. Hector, whom I had left in charge of the
goods, and who, when Sarsfield arrived, was on
the point of coming up the Shary in search of
me, as the natives had informed him that I was
detained at Fundah. This information annoyed
me very much; not that I cared whether Mr.
Lander went to sea or not, but I had lost an
opportunity of communicating with my friends
and family at home, and preventing them from
taking any steps or embarking more deeply in
the speculation, which erroneous information
conveyed directly or indirectly might lead them
to do.

If I was glad to see Sarsfield, he was overjoyed
to find me still alive, and though much fatigued
with his journey, having walked from Yimmahah
a distance of thirty miles, we sat up until nearly

VISIT FROM THE KING. 217

daybreak, and laid a plan for frightening the
king and his people, all the credit of which is
due to him both for its invention and success.
He had brought the rockets with him, and had
let off one at Yimmahah, and described the
terror and alarm of the inhabitants produced by
it as excessive. They looked on him as a deity,
and supplied him in consequence with provi-
sions and carriers to Fundah. He proposed to
try the effect of them here, letting off three or
four at a time, and burning blue lights after
them.

The next morning we had a visit from the
king, who wished to see what Sarsfield had
brought. I gave him to understand that my
people would not send anything until I went
to them myself, and that in the evening I in-
tended to make a grand fetish to my god, to
know whether I should go, or stay at Fundah.
The king said that was good, and that he would
attend with all his priests and summon the inha-
bitants to witness it. The fetish was to be made
under a large tamarind-tree, at the upper end
of the street in which the court was wherein we
^sided. We made as much of this affair as we
could, and pretended to go through sundry prepa-

218 THE WHITE MAN'S FETISH.

rations, in order to impress on the minds of these
people an idea of its importance.

In the evening I was carried out about seven
o'clock, and seated in the street opposite the
tree, the king and his chief men close by, sur-
rounding Sarsfield and the Kroomen, who were
holding the rockets and blue lights that we had
brought out for the occasion. As a commence-
ment of the proceeding, I took a piece of paper
and with great solemnity fastened it to one of
the rockets and gave it to Sarsfield ; we agreed
that the signal for firing the rockets and blue
lights, should be the discharge of my pistol.
An immense crowd of natives was assembled to
witness the ceremony of the white man's fetish ;
the wide street was filled, and the roofs of the
houses and tops of the walls were crowded with
spectators, all full of wonder and speculation as
to what they were to see.

Everything being ready, I fired my pistol, and
up flew four beautiful two pound rockets, the
discharge of which was immediately followed by
the blaze of six blue lights, throwing a ghastly
glare over the whole scene. The effect was per-
fectly electric ; the natives had no idea of what
was coming, and fled in all directions. The king,

TERROR OF THE KING. 219

filled with terror, threw himself on the ground
before me, and placing one of my feet on his
head, entreated me to preserve him from harm,
and to inform him what was the decision of the
Fates. It was now my turn to make use of the
power which I was supposed to possess, and I
replied that I should tell him presently, but that
I must now return to my house with all my men.
The farce had been successful so far, and the
artifice was only to be carried out to a successful
issue.

After keeping the king in suspense about an
hour, I sent word to him that I was ready to
receive him, and that he himself was to come
and see the result of the fetish. He came imme-
diately, and as soon as he was seated, I told him
that I had sent for him to see whether I was to
go or stay, and that my god would punish them
in a manner of which they had no idea, if they
presumed to break his commandments. I then
took from my pocket a little compass, and ex-
plained to him, that if the needle in it pointed
towards me, as soon as it was placed on the
ground, that I was to go from Fundah, and that
if towards him that I was to stay, to all of which
he attended with much reverence. I of course

220 PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE.

took care to know my position, and placing the
compass on the ground, the needle very properly
turned towards me. This was sufficient, the
thing was done, and the king was convinced
that he should allow me to depart freely. I
wished him to handle it, but he shrunk from it
with terror, imagining that it was a living crea-
ture, and was glad to get out of my presence,
after having promised to give me horses, or what
ever I might want in the morning. We had
the greatest difficulty to preserve our gravity
throughout this farce, and when left to ourselves
we enjoyed a hearty laugh at the success of our
plan and the credulity of the king.

The next day was passed in joyful preparations
for our departure, and with the exception of the
heavy goods, and the two barrels of gunpowder,
every thing was packed up for the carriers. At
daylight the next morning, I was lifted on a
horse, being anxious to get to Potingeh before
the sun was high; and, leaving Sarsfield to bring
the goods, I turned my back on a city where
I had suffered both bodily and mentally more
than I could describe, and from whence I took
nothing but experience dearly purchased by an
expenditure of time that would have allowed me.

DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 221

if I had ascended the Niger, to have reached
Boussa. I was accompanied by a host of the
inhabitants, whose curiosity, although I had been
seven weeks among them, had not undergone the
least abatement.

As the town of Fundah is generally allowed
by the traders to be the largest in that part of
the country in which it is situated, and as it has
always been considered by geographers and for-
mer travellers, as a place of importance, both
from its trade and position, a short account of
it by its first European visitor may not be mis-
placed, and will naturally be expected.

Fundah is situated at the western extremity
of a magnificent plain, on the northern bank
of the river Shary, from a branch of which it is
distant about nine miles. It is bounded on the
north by a range of low hills, which, commencing
at the confluence of the Shary and Niger, run
in a direction parallel to the former. To the
eastward of the town a beautiful country extends
as far as the eye can reach. The town itself is
built in the form of a half moon, walled in,
on three sides surrounded by a ditch, and on the
other it is defended by a low wall and fence
which has again a natural defence in a deep

222 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY.

ravine. The height of the wall round the town
is about twelve feet, and its thickness about six,
and the depth of the ditch is about ten feet.
Sarsfield, at my request, walked partly round
the walls ; and his journey from the eastern to
the western gate occupied about four hours.
Allowing that he walked two miles per hour,
that distance would give about two miles and
three quarters as the greatest width of the town,
which, I think, is rather under than over the
mark. The only appearance of any art in the
construction of the walls, was a flanking wall run
along the edge of the ravine that bounds the
town on the south side, evidently for the purpose
of annoying any assailants. At the western
point, this part of the wall had battlements, but
the remainder had none. An open space is left
inside the walls all round the town, no houses
being built for a considerable distance from
them. The king's house appeared to be the
citadel, as it was surrounded by a wall which
had loopholes in many places. The streets of
Fundah are for the most part narrow and
dirty, with the exception of that which sur-
rounds the king's house ; and from its principal
gate, extends to the eastern gate of the town.

ITS POPULATION. 223

It is about two hundred feet wide, and about
a mile long, and the market is held in it every
Friday. The houses are all circular with coni-
cal roofs built of clay, with the exception of
the chief Mallam's, which had a gable end to it.
The verandahs in the front give them a cool and
pleasant appearance.

It is difficult to estimate the population of
Fundah. I may venture to say, that it contains
from five to six thousand huts, and that the
average of each hut cannot be less than six per-
sons, two thirds of which are children. On the
night that we made our fetish, in my opinion,
there were twelve or fifteen thousand people
present, and I have frequently been carried
through the main street when the crowd was so
dense as to require my Kroomen to force their
way ; but this was on market days, when great
numbers of people from the country were as-
sembled. Nothing is more difficult than to
state an accurate approximation to the popula-
tion of a negro town. Most of the respectable
inhabitants are Mahomedans, but nine tenths of
the whole population are Pagans. The propor-
tion of slave population to the free, as nearly as
I could judge, is as five to six. The slaves gene-

224 CHARACTER OF THE KING.

rally are well treated, but badly and scantily fed.
They would scramble in a disgusting manner
for any morsels which we might throw them. —
When they abscond, if they are recovered they
are severely punished by flogging. I saw se-
veral with the marks of the cowskin upon their
flesh.

The Government of Fundah consists "in might,
not in right." The will of the chief appears law,
but he has a council composed of very old men,
with whom he pretends to consult. The present
king is universally disliked for his cruelty and
oppression ; he is notorious for his bad faith, and
by way of consolation in my experience of him,
I was told, while living with him, that he had
frequently enticed traders into his clutches, and
poisoned them for the sake of obtaining their
goods. The people freely expressed their abhor-
rence of him, and, from the feeling which I saw
evinced towards him, I should think that his
reign would not be long endured. He pretends
to exist without eating and drinking, and I
thought at one time that he wished me to follow
his example, as I was very often unable to pro-
cure food of any description. Among his pecu-
liarities, he has a violent antipathy to tobacco.

AN EXECUTION. 225

and if he catches any of his subjects smoking, he
breaks their pipes on their heads ; if he sneezes,
every one present must say, Salam Aleikum! if
he laughs, his attendants must cover his face with
their fans, to prevent his emotions being wit-
nessed by the vulgar eye. At daybreak a slave
arouses him from his slumbers with a loud voice,
and he seldom retires until two o'clock in the
morning. He is active and energetic, and ex-
ceedingly passionate, frequently knocking down
his slaves with a single blow.

During my stay there was only one execution,
if it can be called by that name, for it partook
more of the nature of a sacrifice. An elderly
chief died, leaving fifteen wives and no children.
On the night the deceased was to be buried, the
king went to the women's apartments and select-
ed one who was to be hung, in order to accom-
pany her husband to the next world, sending the
rest to his own house. Sarsfield went to see the
execution, which he said was performed in a very
solemn manner : the people appearing to view it
altogether in the light of a sacrifice. It is cer-
tainly preferable to the horrid custom which pre-
vails at Old Calebar, Bonny, and other places on
the coast, namely that of burying widows alive.

VOL. I. Q

226 AMUSEMENTS OF FUNDAH.

With respect to any force that might exist in
Fundah, if any of consequence does exist, which
I much doubt, it must be very insignificant. On
two occasions, I was carried outside the walls
into the lovely plain, at the extremity of which
the town is situated, in order to witness a dis-
play of horsemanship, dancing, and racing, and
where naturally the youth and chivalry of the
town were assembled. But I do not think that
they mustered altogether fifty horses, not ten of
which were worth looking at twice.

A description of these amusements may not be
uninteresting. I had been about a week in his
house, when the king sent me a message, inviting
me to accompany him to witness a fete which he
was celebrating outside the walls. It was a beauti-
ful morning ; the heat was tempered by a pleasant
breeze, as I was carried out by my Kroomen to
the eastern gate of the king's house. After wait-
ing a few minutes, listening to the most horrid
noises that the yeomen of the king's band could
perpetrate, out sallied from the interior square
about twenty eunuchs as the advance guard ;
the king followed on horseback, surrounded by
his musicians and body-guard of about fifty men,
armed with bows and arrows, and six of them

LAUGHABLE SIGHT. 227

with muskets, (three of which were minus their
locks,) accompanied also by his chief men and a
number of Mahommedan mallams. The king
graciously shook hands with me, and asked me
with a smile of satisfaction, if ever I had seen in
my own country such a sight as this ; I answered
him with great sincerity, that I never had ; for
certainly the wildest conceit of Ducrow never
approximated in the slightest degree to the
figure and appearance of his sable majesty and
his companions. Their clothes were all stuffed
so as to make them appear of an enormous size,
and their horses being small seemed so com-
pletely overladen, that if I had not been aware
of the want of solidity in their burthens, I
should have wondered at their lively prancing
under their apparently enormous riders.

I took the lead in my hammock, and after
proceeding about a mile and a half from the
palace, we halted under a magnificent wild cot-
ton-tree, in the shade of which the king and his
courtiers seated themselves. The whole scene
was novel and inspiring ; the walls of the town
were crowded with spectators, and the road lead-
ing to the town was lined with an immense
multitude of persons. The sport commenced

Q 2

228 AMUSEMENTS OF FUNDAH.

with horse-races : three or four horses started
from the gate, and galloping about half a mile
past us, they were pulled up with a jerk which
threw them on their haunches, when suddenly
wheeling round they came back, and their riders
made obeisance to the king. The racing was
succeeded by sham fights, the parties alternately
retreating and advancing ; and the whole was
closed by a general dance, when the best per-
former was he who kicked his heels the highest.
During the whole time in which these things
were going forward the drums were beat, the
trumpets brayed, and the fifes squeaked, pro-
ducing altogether a discordance of sounds ut-
terly indescribable. My Kroomen afterwards
trotted out, and, with an air of conscious supe-
riority, exhibited their own national dances to
the accompaniment of a drum, before the won-
dering natives.

After the dancing, I was politely informed that
I had better withdraw, as the king was going to
offer up his devotions privately, in a small fetish
hut near us. I was accordingly carried back with
my curiosity unsatisfied respecting the ceremo-
nies he was about to perform, and I never could
ascertain whether he was a Mahommedan or a

MILITARY FORCE. 229

heathen. It is, however, most probable that he
was alternately the one and the other, as he kept
mallams as well as Pagan priests in his service.

The plain on which the races were held is co-
vered with a rich verdure, studded with clumps
of trees as far as the eye can reach. I thought
at one time that I saw the Shary in the south-
east quarter, but afterwards considered that it
must have been a mirage. This plain affords a
magnificent view from the walls of the town, and
as my bearers halted at the gate, when I was
going away, I could not help looking back, and
sighed on reflecting that there was little chance
I should ever be well enough to gallop over its
free and wide expanse.

I imagine that the whole disposable force of
Fundah was collected on these occasions, and I
do not consider that there were more than three
hundred footmen armed with bows and arrows,
\n addition to the thirty horsemen before men-
tioned. The park of artillery consisted of three
serviceable and three unserviceable muskets ; and
as one individual alone was to be found bold
enough to fire off one of these, which he did from
the hip, it cannot be looked on as very formidable.

While residing at Fundah, I was repeatedly

230 MANUFACTURES.

entreated by the king to allow my Kroomen to
accompany his men on marauding expeditions.
My refusal irritated him exceedingly, and, I have
little doubt, was one reason for his conduct to
me being so harsh. He tried the men them-
selves ; but though the Kroomen, like the Irish,
will fight for the fun of the thing, they knew
their duty too well to disobey me. They had
frequent wrestling and boxing matches with
the inhabitants, and were generally victorious,
although they never got into serious scrapes.
They were all tall, handsome men, and having
the advantage of the polish acquired by travel,
and the discipline of our cruisers, they surpassed
the Fundah beaux in the good graces of the fair
sex, who, frequently regardless of their reputa-
tions, and forgetting their own amiable character,
would vigorously contest for the possession of
their persons.

The only manufactures carried on in Fundah
are cotton cloths, extensive dye-works, and iron
and copper utensils. The cotton is spun by every
one, from the king downwards, upon what, I
believe, is called a falling bobbin. The spinner
carries a quantity of raw cotton in his hand, and
with his finger and thumb commences the thread.

MANUFACTURES. 231

the end of which he fastens to the bobbin, giv-
ing it a rotatory motion, and lets it fall, paying
out the cotton with great quickness and dexte-
rity. This is repeated until the bobbin reaches the
ground, when the thread is wound up, and he
begins again. I have frequently met slaves car-
rying large burthens on their heads, and spinning
in this manner as they walked. The thread
is rough but strong, the cotton being of very
fine staple. The cloth is wove in pieces about
twelve feet long, and three broad ; is exceed-
ingly durable and heavy : its price is about one
thousand cowries per yard if plain, but, if dyed
blue, about fifteen hundred.

They manufacture from native iron, hatchets,
chisels, nails and clamps, and have a number of
European locks and keys, particularly padlocks.
Copper is used in ornamenting and fastening
their large calabashes, and in the manufacture
of bowls for their tobacco pipes. I tried in vain
to get some of the ore, which must be very rich ;
but, though they readily made me several pipe-
bowls to order, for five hundred cowries each,
I never could get them to give me the ore or
material of which they are made. The natives
all agree, that it came down the Shary from the

232 TRADE OF FUNDAH.

eastward. In all rude states of society the pro-
fession of the blacksmith is held in high estima-
tion, and the Vulcans of Fundah are no excep-
tion to this rule ; they rank next to the king
in importance, and are quite as consequential.

The trade of Fundah is trifling ; the tyranny
of the king, and the number of years in which
the country has been in an unsettled state, are
sufficient reasons for this. If the accounts of
the natives can be believed, it was formerly a
place of considerable trade — a sort of entrepot
where the Arabs and Felatahs exchanged Euro-
pean goods for slaves. Whether this tradition
be true or not, the town of Fundah bears inter-
nal evidence that it was founded by a race of
men superior to those who now inhabit it. The
people who built the walls and dug the ditches
that surround the town must have been either
in themselves superior, or governed by a much
superior set of men to any I met there.

The subject which interested me most, and on
which I made many enquiries from every person
whom I thought likely to give me information, was
the course of the Shary. The answers invariably
were, that it came from Lake Tehad ; and one man,
a native of Kooka, offered to take me up there

SOURCE OF THE SHARY. 233

in twelve days without changing the canoe. The
latter expression struck me forcibly, and I cross-
questioned the man closely ; but he adhered to
his statement, and enumerated a long list of
towns on the banks of the river. This evidence,
though strong, is by no means conclusive ; the
natives are such inveterate liars, that no depend-
ance can be placed on any accounts they may
give ; and from the experience which I have had
of their mendacious propensities, I do not allow
their accounts to weigh for a moment against
the following reasons, which induce me to think
that it has its rise in another and very different
quarter.

The water of the Shary is colder than that of
the Niger.

The rise of the river commences sooner and
more suddenly than the Niger.

There is little trade upon the Shary in com-
parison with the Niger, which, if it communicat-
ed with the sea of Soudan, would naturally be
immense.

From the three first reasons, I should think
that its rise is in a mountainous country, and
that that country lies very near the equator.
Probably the same range of hills that gives birth

234 SOURCE OF THE SHARY.

to the Cameroons, Malimba, and other large
rivers, throws off, on its opposite declivity, the
sources of the Shary. From its sudden rising it
appears to me that it cannot be caused by the
gradual and regular overflowing of an immense
inland sea. This is the opinion I formed against
the reports of the natives, and against the ap-
pearance of the country, as the range of hills
that commences at the confluence diminishes
its elevation gradually, and I have no doubt
crosses out at no great distance. So there
did not appear to me any physical difficulties
that would prevent the river from trending to
the northward. Future travellers will settle
this question, and it may appear hereafter that
I have been mistaken in my opinion. If so, I
will most willingly acknowledge my mistake, as
it will facilitate in a great measure the civiliza-
tion of the people, by admitting commerce and
its attendant blessings into the very centre of
the country.

DEPARTURE FROM FUNDAH. 235

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Fundah. — Arrive at Yimmahah. — Return an
hoard the Quorra. — Determination to return down the
River to Fernando Po. — Description of Adassah and its
King. — Sarsjield and Lieutenant Allen proceed to Fundah.
— Ravages of the Felatahs. — Mortality among our Kroo-
men. — Hector s Narrative of his Visit to Fundah. — Insubor-
dination among the Kroomen. — Anchor off Bocqua. — Joined
hy Mr. Oldfield from the Columbine. — Letters from Europe.
— Account of Mortality in the Columbine.

After leaving the rabble that followed us out
of the town, I proceeded in what my Kroomen
insisted was the right road to Potingah, and,
after a ride of two hours, was much annoyed to
be told by a man who overtook us on horseback,
driving a string of slaves before him to market,
that we had taken the wrong path after passing
the first ravine, and were considerably to the
northward of our course. Being already much
fatigued and rather startled at the information, I
rode up to a farm-house, where I was welcomed
by the women, and lay down in the shade for

236 JOURNEY TO YIMMAHAH.

a short time, until the proprietor of the house
came. I engaged him to conduct us to Potin-
gah, and we set out again, my conductor hold-
ing me on my horse, as the sun was now very
powerful and my weakness fast increasing. I was
unable to proceed far, and in an hour's time was
obliged to stop and be lifted off again at another
farm-house, where I lay for some time almost in
a ritate of insensibility.

In the evening I was aroused by Sarsfield, who
had become alarmed at my not appearing at Po-
tingah, and had found me out by my guide
going and informing him of my situation. It ap-
peared that he had had some difficulty in getting
away from Fundah after I had left ; and Smith
the mulatto, who was ill of dysentery, refused to
accompany him. He had left a bag of cowries
with him, and the king promised that he would
send him down, in a canoe from Potingah, as
soon as he recovered. As the sun was now less
powerful, and there was a pleasant breeze, I was
mounted on my horse again, and, about eight
o'clock in the evening, was once more afloat in
the same abominable canoe which brought me
from Yimmahah.

AWFUL TORNADO. 237

As I was very ill, I kept Sarsfield with me,
directing the Kroomen to proceed by land to
Yimmahah, and we went on in the canoe. At
about eleven o'clock at night, one of the most
awful tornadoes that I ever witnessed came on,
and continued for four hours. The canoemen
directly pulled alongside the bank, and speedily
took themselves off into the bush, leaving Sars-
field and me to take care of ourselves and the
canoe also. Fortunately we had some brandy,
which, with a little opium, carried us through
the night. Having no covering, excepting our
blankets, we literally lay in the water ; and if
the canoe had not been aground, she must have
sunk from the quantity of rain that poured into
her. A number of fowls that we had tied to the
thwarts were drowned.

At daybreak the clouds cleared away : we
spread our clothes out to dry in the sun, and,
clearing out our canoe as well as we could, pro-
ceeded onwards. After a roasting from the sun,
as a sort of contrast to the soaking we had ex-
perienced, we reached Yimmahah in the even-
ing, where I entered my own boat, and enjoyed
the hurricane-house in her stern as much as if it

238 NATIVES OF YIMMAHAH.

had been a palace, which it really was, compared
with those which we had been lately inhabiting.

On my arrival I was visited by my old friend
the Mallam, and a number of my old acquaint-
ances, who came to congratulate me on my return ;
all of them bringing presents of some trifling
kind. I rewarded the old chief for taking care of
my boat, not a rope-yarn having been stolen ; and
I may here remark, that the whole time I was at
Yimmahah and Fundah, I never lost an article
of the slightest value from theft by the natives :
my own Kroomen pilfered and cheated me in
every way ; but the natives, although keen bar-
gainers, are honest, or rather they were so to
me ; and even the king never took anything
which I refused him, although he would threaten
and bluster about it. My goods were quite at
their mercy, if they had been inclined to take
them ; and, considering the condition in which
I was, their refraining from doing so may be
looked on as a decisive proof of the facility and
security with which trade may be carried on in
the country.

In the morning, after a night's rest much need-
ed by us all, we departed from Yimmahah ; and
in the evening of the second day arrived on board

RETURN ON BOARD THE QUORRA. 239

the Alburkah, where I was glad to find Lieuten-
ant Allen perfectly recovered. I received from
him a note, written to me by Mr. Lander, merely
telling me, that he had thought proper to take
Captain Hill to the sea, in order to give him a
chance for his life. The next morning I went
down to the Quorra, and found her afloat, the
river having risen considerably since I left her.
I found Hector, Harvey, and the rest of the men
much in the same way, in point of health, as
when I left them ; and, for my own part, I had
returned as weak and helpless, after two months,
as I was when I started.

As it appeared to me, that it was very impro-
bable that Mr. Lander would return ; that in the
present state of my own health there was little
chance of my surviving if I remained in the river ;
and as we had been long enough in communica-
tion with Rabbah, Egga, Toto, Domo, and other
towns, that had been represented to us to abound
in ivory and other productions, to discover that
the expectations which had been raised by those
representations respecting the profitable nature
of the trade were completely falsified, inasmuch
as we had not collected more than forty-five hun-
dred weight of ivory, I determined to take the

240 SAIL FOR CUTTUM-CURAFFEE.

vessels down, and lay them up at Fernando Po,
confident that keeping them up the river would
only add to the enormous expense that had al-
ready been incurred, without the slightest chance
of remuneration ; and being aware that, with the
debilitated crews of the vessels, the only chance
of safety consisted in taking them down on the
rising water.

As I did not consider that the river had risen
sufficiently to enable us to proceed without dan-
ger of stranding, I determined to pay Cuttum-
CurafFee a visit, as I found that our tallow was
expended, and I had been informed by the na-
tives that plenty of Shea butter could be ob-
tained there, which would answer equally well
for the engine. Although not thirty miles dis-
tant, this town had not been visited by any per-
son belonging to the vessels. The chief was
indebted to us for a considerable quantity of
goods, for which there appeared little chance
of getting anything, without a personal appli-
cation, and this circumstance formed an addi-
tional reason for my going to Cuttum-CurafFee
at this time.

After a few days' rest, taking Mr. Hector and
seven Kroomen, I set out for Cuttum-CurafFee,

ADASSAII. 241

and slept the first night on board the Albiirkah.
Leaving her in the morning, I proceeded up the
Niger, and found an excellent channel running
N. E. by E. for five or six miles, then N. and
afterwards N. E. The scenery is very beautiful
on the western bank, the meandering of the river
through the hills giving it a very picturesque
appearance.

On the evening of the second day, we arrived
at Adassah, a small town, about five miles from
Cuttum-Curaffee, and the nearest point on the
river. A creek, passable only for canoes in the
flooded season, runs up to the town. Immediate-
ly on our arrival, we sent for horses, which ar-
rived about twelve o'clock next morning. Leav-
ing two men with the boat, we mounted our steeds
which were but sorry creatures. Our path wound
amidst plantations of grain and yams for a short
distance, and then struck off due east, through
a dense forest, crossing the creek, which took the
horses up to their bellies. We found the remains
of a bridge across it, consisting of upright posts,
with forked heads, one or two of the horizontal
pieces of which were still remaining. My con-
ductors informed me, that it had been destroyed
by the Felatahs^ when they burnt the town. The

VOL. I. R

242 DESCRIPTION OF ADASSAH.

banks are of clay, and very steep. Hector had a
narrow escape : in attempting to get his horse
up them, the animal tumbled backwards, and he
was saved only by throwing himself off into the
water.

After a ride, which was to me very distressing,
we came in view of the town, prettily situated
under a range of low hills. The place would, I
think, be very healthy, were it not for a swamp
on the western side. Through this swamp we fol-
lowed the path, which was raised above its level,
by a causeway three or four feet high. The town
is walled and ditched, but presents a very ruin-
ous appearance, not having recovered from the
attack of the Felatahs, who sacked and burnt it
twelve months before I visited it. The present
inhabitants, in my opinion, do not exceed five
thousand, though, from the extent of its walls, it
may have contained four times that number. I
passed through the town, entering at the western,
and going out at the northern gate, as I was de-
termined to sleep outside of the walls, amongst
the Housa people, who have a village to them-
selves, beautifully seated on the side of the hill. I
took possession of a very clean, neat hut, belong-
ing to a woman with a large family. Her eldest,

MUSQUITOES. 243

a girl of thirteen, was one of the most perfect
models, as to figure, I had ever seen ; her foot
and ancle were exquisitely beautiful, and her car-
riage was at once graceful and dignified. She
was unmarried, and wore merely a cloth around
her loins, but was intended for the chief ; I be-
lieve, however, that thirty thousand cowries, or
about thirty shillings, would have bought her.

If ever the musquitoes had a paradise, it must
have been at this town, for the myriads that
greeted us the first night of our arrival was
beyond anything I had yet witnessed even at
Fundah, which I had thought so bad that nothing
could be worse. They had long ceased feasting
on me ; but Hector, who had recovered wonder-
fully from his illness, and had some flesh on his
bones, was too good a subject to be missed, and,
when daylight arrived, I hardly knew him, so
completely was his face besmeared with blood
that had been oozing out of the numerous bites
all night.

In the morning we paid a visit to the king,
who was rather annoyed at our not staying inside
the walls of the town. He was an old and in-
firm man ; said he was very poor, which his ha-
bitation evinced, as it was completely in ruins,

R 2

244- INTERVIEW WITH THE KING.

but had evidently been a very large place. I
gave him a present, for which he promised me
some bullocks. I was disappointed to hear that
no butter was made nearer than Domo, which
was represented to be distant three days' journey :
— the king had no ivory, nor anything to trade
with. I took my leave after a short audience,
fully satisfied I should get nothing, and feeling
pity for the old man, who evidently had seen bet-
ter times.

The town presented an appearance as if it had
been sacked, and half destroyed ; roofless houses
and broken down walls were seen on every side,
with the rank vegetation springing up among
them in all directions. On passing the ditch, I
observed several human skulls, and other bones.
The Felatahs had assaulted the place upon this
side, and, if the inhabitants can be believed, were
repulsed three times before they stormed the
town.

The exertion of the last two days, and my
exposure to the sun, brought on an attack of
dysentery, which confined me to the hut. Hector,
who was well, rambled about the town, but saw
nothing remarkable. I took my old friend the
barber's prescription of raw rice and water, and

RETURN TO THE ALBURKAH. 245

by confining myself to it alone, became well
enough in a few days to sit upon horseback. My
landlady was very attentive to me during my
sickness, and gave me great relief by dressing
my sores, as I had become so emaciated that my
hip and elbow bones had cut through my skin ;
and the irritating disease I had contracted had
broken out into ulcers all over my body. I de-
termined to leave Hector to await the arrival of
the messenger that had been despatched to Domo
for the Shea butter, and return to the Quorra ;
sending the boat back for him immediately. The
king very civilly supplied us with horses; and
after a most distressing ride, in which, short as
it was, I fainted three times under the excru-
ciating pains of my sores, I got into my boat.
Hector returned to the town, and the next even-
ing I reached the Alburkah. On my telling Mr.
Allen that the boat would return for Hector, he
expressed a wish to visit the town ; and on my
sending the boat back in a day or two with Sars-
field, he took a passage in her, and fixed the
latitude 8° 7' N. and the meridional distance,
east of Stirling, at the confluence, 0' 12" E.

In a few days Hector returned ; he had been
but partly successful, having got but very little

246 DESPATCH HECTOR TO FUNDAH.

butter and no payment from the king. I had
been much pleased with his conduct while at
Cuttum-Curaffee ; and as I could place the
greatest dependance upon his coolness and self-
possession in any situation, I determined to send
him up to Fundah, to try and get some repay-
ment for the quantity of things I had been
cheated out of there, and which I attributed in
a great measure to the infirm state of my health,
which prevented my making sufficiently energetic
exertions to recover them.

As the river was rising rapidly, and no time
was to be lost, two days after his return I des-
patched him and Sarsfield with six Kroomen,
with orders to make no stay if they did not suc-
ceed at once in getting payment. They were to
call on board the Alburkah, Lieutenant Allen
being desirous of visiting Fundah. On the 19th
of June, they left us, and I heard of them two
days afterwards by a canoe from the Shary, that
had met them some distance up the river.

While at Cuttum-CurafFee, I heard that the
Felatahs were expected to make a descent upon
the western or Kacundah side of the river, and
a few days after the departure of the boat, the
whole of the inhabitants of the towns on that

RAVAGES OF THE FELATAHS. 24?

side of the river gave notice of their approach
by flying in dismay to the opposite bank, which
for many miles was covered with their barra-
coons, or temporary huts hastily erected of mats.
Great numbers encamped close to us, particu-
larly our Addah Kuddah friends, who had, at the
first intimation of the approach of their dreaded
enemies, conveyed all their little property in
canoes to the eastern bank, putting the river
between them and the Felatahs, who being des-
titute of boats could not follow them. It was
amusing to hear the various reports of their
strength, all of which differed, in proportion to
. the terror of the informer, from five to fifty thou-
sand, a considerable part of which were said to
be horsemen. A few days after the arrival of
the fugitives, a column of smoke, rising in the
air about five miles above the confluence, mark-
ed their advance, and in two days afterwards
the whole of the towns, including Addah Kuddah
and five or six others, were in a blaze. The
scene at night was imposing ; the fire, catching
the dried grass, ran furiously along the ground,
excited by a strong breeze from the westward,
which rolled the dark mass of smoke over the
river. The shrieks of the unfortunate wretches

248 RAVAGES OF THE FELATAHS.

that had not escaped, answered by the loud wail-
ings and lamentations of their friends and rela-
tions, (encamped on the opposite bank of the
river,) at seeing them carried off into slavery and
their habitations destroyed, produced a scene
which, though common enough in the country,
had seldom, if ever, before been witnessed by
European eyes, and showed to me in a more
striking light than I had hitherto beheld it, the
horrors attendant upon slavery.

I had brought down the Alburkah from her
anchorage at the confluence at the first notice of
the approach of the Felatahs near my own vessel,
having no one on board her that I could trust to,
and not being aware of the intentions of the Fe-
latahs towards us. The towns continued burning
several days ; but the invaders evidently did not
wish to venture beyond our vessels, as none of the
towns were fired below us. As I was exceedingly
anxious to open a communication with them, and
the natives having reported that they were en-
camped near Stirling, at the confluence of the
rivers, I sent up Harvey with a boat's crew, with
orders to land unarmed, and endeavour, if possi-
ble, to communicate with them, giving him at
the same .time a number of presents and several

ATTEMPTS TO COMMUNICATE WITH THEM. 249

Arabic circulars, which had been printed in Eng-
land, setting forth our object in coming as traders.
Harvey landed at all the towns, but found
them deserted ; the roofs of all the houses were
burnt and the clay walls only standing. He left
the circulars as I had desired him, in a conspi-
cuous place in each town. Two other attempts
were made to open a communication with them
afterwards, without success : the Arabic papers
had been taken down, but there was no appear-
ance of the Felatahs ; they had in fact retreat-
ed as fast as they advanced, carrying off a num-
ber of slaves with them. I regretted much that
I was so ill as to be unable to make the trial
myself, though I believe it would have been
equally unsuccessful, as we happened to be un-
fortunately situated, — the natives having given
out that we were their allies, and their crowding
round our vessels gave some colour to their re-
port. I have little doubt that this prevented
our meeting with this extraordinary people,
who, whether it may be from their physical
power and mental energy, or their form of
government, seem to be overrunning the whole
country, and who, ere long, will most probably
reach the coast.

250 MORTALITY AMONG OUR KROOMEN.

My Kroomen had hitherto been very healthy,
but while I was at Fundah, old Paskoe, Mr. Lan-
der's servant, died, with strong symptoms of being
poisoned; and one of the Kroomen named Accah,
a fine young man of about twenty-six years of
age, had died in a similar manner. Another was
ill with the same symptoms : I tried the effects of
mercury upon him, and salivated him severely; he
apparently recovered, but relapsed, and died in
a horrible state. He also was a healthy, strong
young man, under thirty : his name was " Frying
Pan." Jack Sabe, my Kroo cook, and a valuable
man, was also ill with the same symptoms, and for
the first time my Kroomen began to look fright-
ened, and to grumble about their long detention
in the river. They had hitherto behaved very
well, but I saw that one or two more deaths
among them would have a very disagreeable
effect, and an occurrence shortly afterwards took
place which confirmed me in the opinion, that
their ready obedience could not be counted on
as heretofore.

After an absence of twelve days. Hector re-
turned from Fundah, unsuccessful, as I expected,
and gave me the following account of his ex-
pedition : —

hector's visit to FUNDAH. 251

*' After leaving the Quorra, on the morning of
the 19th June, I received Lieutenant Allen on
board, at the mouth of the Shary, and entered
that stream at ten a.m. The breadth of the
river, at this season of the year, is about a mile
and a half, but broken by sandbanks and small
green islands into three or four channels. The
southern bank is high and sprinkled with trees;
the northern one is lower, with jungle here and
there. We proceeded slowly against the stream,
and at noon stopped at a sandbank near some
fishermen's huts. Ibrahim, the interpreter, was
sent on shore to a small village, and purchased
some eggs and dried fish ; we then proceeded
until dark, when we stopped under the bank, the
Kroomen lighting a fire on the shore and sleep-
ing round it.

" 20th. We proceeded at daylight through
the same sort of country : at noon the river
became contracted to a breadth of five hundred
yards, with a strong current, which the Kroo-
men had great difficulty in stemming by track-
ing the boat : both banks being thickly covered
with wood, they were obliged to wade up to
the middle in water. At sunset we emerged
from the woods, and entered a noble reach of

252 hector's account.

the river. To the south was an extensive green
plain, dotted with trees and bounded by gently
swelling hills, partially clothed with wood. We
saw no appearance of inhabitants on this beauti-
ful plain, unless immense numbers of monkeys,
that seemed to have possession of it, might be
considered such. The Kroomen took their even-
ing meal on a sandbank, after which we pro-
ceeded during the night, though with great dif-
ficulty, owing to the intricacy of the channels.
At nine o'clock, on the morning of the 21st, we
arrived at a village on the north bank. I ad-
mired particularly the situation of this place : it
was a little removed from the clay banks of the
river, which were about twenty- eight feet high,
and was almost hidden by trees. Behind it rose a
conical hill to the height of six or seven hundred
feet, partially wooded, but very steep and rocky.
The natives sold us some provisions, particularly
some hung and smoked beef, which I had not
procured elsewhere. It was the flesh of the
wild bullock, and very good. At noon we passed
an immense number of fishermen's huts : an air
of great comfort and plenty was apparent among
them. The inhabitants were all employed in
catching and preserving fish, while around the

OF HIS VISIT TO FUNDAH. 253 -

huts swarms of children were playing. Many
women, with ornaments of native copper and
brass bracelets tastefully embossed, paid us a
visit. At seven p. m. we stopped for the night off

a small village on the south bank.

t.

** 22nd. At three o'clock this morning, a tre-
mendous tornado came on : the boat dragged her
anchor, and grounded on a sandbank, where I
fully expected she would have gone to pieces.
At daylight the tornado abated, and at ten
o'clock we reached the town of Yimmahah.

" This is the first Fundah town ; it stands upon
a basaltic rock, that abuts abruptly on the river :
this rock has a kind of natural staircase up it,
formed by projecting stones, and is very difficult
of ascent. I paid a visit to the chief, who pressed
me to stay, and seemed vexed at my quick de-
parture. A respectable-looking man came and
informed me, that if I desired to go to Fundah
by land, his horse, the only one in the place, was
at my service. I declined the offer, and made
him a small present.

" On the land side of Yimmahah, the ground
descends, and again rises towards the hills, which
are a continuation of the chain we had before
seen.

254 hector's account

" 23rd. We proceeded onward, the river becom-
ing very broad, with its principal channel on the
north side. At sunset we stopped, to allow the
people to cook their meal; and then, with a fair
wind, went on during the night.

" 24th. Early in the morning we reached the
mouth of the creek or river called Okna, which
leads to Fundah, into which we entered.

" 25th. At noon reached Potingah, a village
about ten miles from Fundah, and despatched a
messenger to the king for horses. Early on the
26th, we removed our baggage into the chief's
hut. At ten o'clock the horses arrived, and we
set out. The way we took was a bridle-path,
which crosses three ravines. On emerging from
the last, we saw the walls of Fundah at the extre-
mity of a small plain covered with verdure and
interspersed with magnificent trees.

** After entering the town through a gateway,
we proceeded down the principal avenue for
about half a mile, as far as the walls of the
king's house, where in an open space we found
some of the people exercising their horses.

" On our arrival being reported to the king, his
head eunuch made his appearance and proposed
to show us a proper lodging : we followed him to

OF HIS VISIT TO FUNDAH. 255

several miserable huts, to which we objected, and
at last got a comparatively decent one belonging
to a mallam. The king sent us a present of a
sheep, rice and yams, in the evening, and crowds
of people visited us.

" 27th. This morning about noon the king,
attended by his mallams and eunuchs to the
number of forty or fifty, paid us a visit. He
was ushered in completely covered with a cloth,
which his people took off when he sat down, and
displayed to our view his majesty swelled up
with cushions or cotton to the size of a hogs-
head. After the usual compliments, he asked
after Mr. Laird — if he was alive, and what we
wanted. I informed him, that we were here to
trade with him and his people, and to demand
the goods left by Mr. Laird, or payment for
them.

" His majesty did not seem very well pleased
at this demand, and said he merely came to com-
pliment us, and not to talk on business. Lieute-
nant Allen made him a present of some toys,
which he received very coolly, and shortly after
took his departure.

" He is a stout, ill-looking man, about forty-five
years of age, and has red eyes, which our Kroo-

256 hector's account

men affirm is a sure sign of a bad man. In the
evening he came back, naked, except a waist-
cloth, and stayed a few minutes ; but Ibrahim the
interpreter being out of the way, we could not
make out what he wanted.

" 28th. It being a holiday to-day, we accompa-
nied the king to a plain, on the east side of the
town, where we witnessed several horse-races and
native dances, which were performed before him
to the noise of drums, trumpets, and other in-
struments. On returning with the king, he re-
cognised in the market-place a native of Bassa,
and a great squabble of tongues commenced.
The man was alone, but retorted the abuse with
great spirit. The people of Bassa and Fundah
are often at war, and perpetually harassing each
other. It was annoying to find, through our
interpreter, that the king was threatening the
Bassa people with the vengeance of the white
men, who would, he said, utterly destroy their
country.

" 29th. I was witness to-day to a poisoning
scene, which it would appear was a favourite
punishment at Fundah. The culprits were two
women, who were placed under a tree in a court-
yard, and an old man beat up the leaves of some

OF HIS VISIT TO FUNDAH. 257

herbs in a sort of mortar, mixing them with
water, the women sitting quietly looking on.
The liquid, which was of a greenish colour, was
poured into two calabashes, and the women
drank it off without any apparent reluctance.
They then commenced walking quickly up and
down the court, drinking large quantities of
water from a calabash placed in the centre of it.
In about half an hour, they both began to stag-
ger, and totter in their walk ; and in a few mi-
nutes more the tragedy was ended by their fall-
ing flat on the ground and expiring in apparently
dreadful agonies. The natives seemed accus-
tomed to such scenes, and stated that it was the
punishment for stealing the king's yams.

" In the evening I had another interview with
the king, and found it impossible to procure
either the goods or payment ; indeed, I was
abused and threatened ; and knowing that my
return would be anxiously looked for by Mr.
Laird, I determined to leave in the morning, and
demanded horses from the king for that purpose.
His majesty, however, would neither lend us
horses, nor suffer us to hire them ; and on the
30th we departed on foot for our boat.

" We passed through the city, followed by a

VOL. I. s

258 TRADING TO THE BOCQUA MARKET.

great number of people ; and on our arrival out-
side the walls, found that our interpreter, Ibra-
him, had absconded with his musket and accou-
trements. He was a native of Kano, an intelli-
gent and active fellow, but a great rascal.

"' Our march to Potingah was not the most
agreeable, as we found the water in the ravines
in some places up to our waists, and we felt
really thankful once more to get on board the
launch.

" On the 2lnd of July we arrived on board the
Quorra, and found the Alburkah at anchor be-
side her ; having met with nothing but kindness
and civility from the common people, and roguery
and insult from their chief. In fact, I do not
believe, that if the king could have mustered
courage to attack us, his people would have sup-
ported him in his intention. "

After Mr. Hector's return, as I did not con-
sider the river, although much swollen, was suf-
ficiently so to justify our proceeding to the sea,
I employed him in trading with the launch to
Bocqua market ; and a circumstance occurred to
him, while on one of his trips, strongly illustra-
tive of the disorganised state of the country, and
the demoralisation of the people.

INSTANCE OF DEMORALIZATION. 259

On our voyage up. King Obie had presented
Mr. Lander with a slave, a native of Kacundah.
While the Alburkah was lying at the confluence,
he absconded, and nothing was heard of him un-
til he was discovered by Mr. Hector, at Bocqua,
where he was on sale ; his own brother having
enticed him on shore from the Alburkah and
brought him down to the market as a slave. On
seeing the boat, he made a run for her, and get-
ting hold of the gunwale, roared out for assist-
tance. His brother claimed him as his slave and
seized upon him ; but after a violent struggle he
managed to get into the boat, and as he was then
under the British flag, he was carried off in tri-
umph, glad to get back to his old masters. He
was remarkably stout when he absconded ; but
we hardly knew him when he was brought back,
he was so dreadfully emaciated. Several hun-
dred people had crowded to the boat, shouting
and encouraging the man to assert his right to
the slave ; and matters appeared so alarming, that
Hector ordered the Kroomen to fix their bayo-
nets on their muskets, while he primed the swivel
and pointed it at the crowd. At these threaten-
ing movements they disappeared in a few seconds.
As the man was carried off* in the face of the

s 2

260 INSUBORDINATION AMONG

whole market, consisting of five or six thousand
people, by a boat's crew of two Europeans and six
Kroomen, it affords a proof of the security with
which a European may traverse the river in this
part.

On Hector's last trip to Bocqua, a circum-
stance occurred which fixed my determination to
get down the river as quickly as possible. My
head Krooman, Tom Kay, so far forgot himself as
to strike Mr. Hector and refuse to work at the
oar. This was the first time that the Kroomen
had shown the slightest symptom of insubordi-
nation, and coming from their headman, it be-
came more alarming. When it was reported to
me on the return of the boat, I determined at
all hazards to put the man in irons ; and in the
morning, having sent the rest of the Kroomen
ashore to cut wood, called him up, and charged
him with his offence, which he did not deny, but
boasted of it. Harvey and Hector immediately
threw themselves on him, and got him down and
put his hands in irons. On releasing him, he was
furious, and attempted to jump overboard, but
was prevented by two of his boys that were
on board. On the remainder coming on board
to dinner and finding their chief in irons, they all

THE KROOMEN. 261

came aft upon the poop, where 1 was lying upon
the skylight, propped up with pillows. Hector,
Harvey, and Sarsfield, being the only men able
to stand, were beside me well armed, and the
two field-pieces loaded with grape were pointed
forward. They were going to speak, when I
ordered them all off the poop except " After
Dinner," the second headman, threatening to fire
upon them if they did not obey. After a moment's
hesitation, they went off; and I acquainted Mr.
" After Dinner" with the reason why I had put his
chief in irons, and told him he was to take charge
of the Kroomen from that time. I then called
the other men, and informed them that Tom
Kay was no longer headman, and that " After
Dinner" was to be considered as such. They
obeyed quietly, but the peculiar character of the
people now evinced itself. I had disgraced their
headman, and was obeyed from fear and with
reluctance ever afterwards. While he remained
in irons, their attention to him was beyond any-
thing I could have imagined. They gave him
the tit-bits of their mess, and made up, out of
their own, his allowance of grog, which was
stopped. Though disgraced, he was their head-
man still, and was treated by them amongst

262 LETTERS FROM ENGLAND.

themselves with more respect and deference than
before ; though, as far as the duty of the ship
went, they obeyed " After Dinner" in everything.
This trait in their character gave me a higher
opinion of them than I hitherto had, as it con-
trasted so forcibly with the treatment which a
petty officer receives when he has the misfortune
to be broke amongst more civilised people : he
may be pitied by his superiors, but he is always
laughed at and jeered by the class he is lower-
ed to.

On the 10th of July, the water having risen
by measurement fourteen feet, we got under
weigh, taking the Alburkah in tow, and proceeded
rapidly down the river, passing the beautiful gorge
through the Kong Mountains, and arriving at
Bocqua, where we anchored to purchase rice and
other provisions. About two o'clock in the after-
noon, to my great surprise, a boat under can-
vass hove in sight. I sent a boat to her with
Hector, who returned with Mr. Lander and Mr.
Oldfield, our surgeon, bringing a parcel of letters
for me. Those only who have been shut out
from all communication with friends and the ci-
vilised world for some time, can imagine the true
value of a letter. I had left Livei*pool when the

JOINED BY MR. OLDFIELD. 263

cholera was exciting so much alarm and commit-
ting such ravages, and had almost feared to hope
that my friends had escaped. How gratefully
then did I return thanks to the Giver of all
good, that none of those that were near and dear
to me had fallen !

After visiting his friend Mr. Allen, Mr. Lan-
der came on board with Mr. Oilfield. He was
looking much worse than when I last saw him,
and had evidently suffered much in the boats
from exposure to the weather. He had been
thirty-two days on his passage from the Nun, in
the brig's long boat, which he had thatched over
abaft, and had brought up with him a Mr. Dean
to command the Alburkah, and one white man
as a sailor. Mr. Oldfield told me that the mor-
tality in the brig had been very slight in com-
parison with other vessels that had entered the
river, and he attributed the circumstance to my
having anchored her open to the sea-breeze. I
learnt from him that an American expedition
had arrived in the river, consisting of a brig and
two small schooners. The supercargo of the
brig having been unfortunately killed by the
bursting of his gun, the vessels had been obliged
to return without accomplishing their object, and

264 MORTALITY IN THE COLUMBINE.

after having lost most of their men. The only
other vessel that had entered the river, was a
Spanish slaver from the Havannah, that in a
few days lost fifteen of the crew. Mr. Oldfield
himself had suffered from fever ; but he had re-
covered, and was now in good health and look-
ing well, and from the severe seasoning he had
undergone, would, I had no doubt, remain so.
At the mouth of the river his time had been
passed most monotonously, and from his de-
scription, even our own situation must have been
far more preferable. Captain Mitchell and two
seamen had fallen victims to the climate, and the
others had all suffered more or less from fever.
Leaving me to peruse my letters, they returned
on board the Alburkah. Mr. Lander had the
kindness to send me two bottles of Port wine,
one gallon of brandy, and some tea and flour,
which he had brought up the river. Accom-
panied by Lieutenant Allen, Mr. Lander and Mr.
Oldfield came on board to dinner, and with true
professional delight the latter set to work upon
me. He at once pronounced my complaint to
be an inveterate itch, aggravated by the exces-
sive debility of the whole system ; and com-
menced his operations by dressing the ulcers

MR. OLDFIELD'S MEDICAL TREATMENT. 265

with which I was covered, and plastering me
over with brimstone ointment every day, after-
wards steaming me in a portable steam-bath
that I very fortunately had brought out with
me.

266 ARRIVE AT ATTAH.

CHAPTER XL

Arrive at Attah. — Another Krooman dies. — Departure of
the Alburkah, loith Mr. Oldfield and Mr. Lander, for
Boussa. — Anclior off Eboe. — Interview tvith the King con-
cerning the Trade. — Punishment of two Native Delin-
quents. — Arrive at the Mouth of the River, and proceed to
Fernando Po. — Determine on returning to Liverpool. —
Trip to Calebar. — Duke Ephraim. — Government House at
Clarence. — The Spanish Slaver. — A Visit to Bimbia and
Cameroons. — The Bimbia Pilot. — Peter the Slave. — A
Boat Race. — Technical Terms and Native Taste. — Return
to Fernando Po.

In a few days I felt considerably relieved by
Mr. Oldfield's treatment ; and on the 10th we
departed from Bocqua, and in three hours ar-
rived at Attah. The Alburkah followed, with
Mr. Lander. In coming down, we took the in-
ner channel, passing close under the perpendi-
cular face of the hill on which Attah stands, and
came to anchor a little below the landing-place.
The river must have risen since we passed on our
voyage up more than thirty feet, as we had four

DEATH OF ANOTHER KROOMAN. 267

fathoms where it was impassable for boats in
December.

On the 18th, my cook, " Jack Sabe," a Kroo-
man, died, with similar symptoms to those that
appeared upon the two others ; viz. a burning
pain in the pit of the stomach, excessive thirst
and debility, with swellings of the body and ex-
tremities. Mr. Oldfield examined the body, but
by no inducement could the Kroomen be per-
suaded to allow it to be opened. I have no
doubt in my own mind that the deaths of these
three Kroomen, and that of old Pascoe, were
occasioned by poison, administered to them by
the natives. The body, immediately after death,
becomes putrid, and seems ready to burst, as a
dark-coloured offensive fluid oozed from the
mouth and nose.

Mr. Lander having determined to endeavour
to reach Boussa in the Alburkah, fixed his de-
parture for the 27th ; and though very anxious
myself to visit a place hallowed by the melan-
choly fate of Mungo Park, I did not consider
myself justified in returning, and, for the reasons
before mentioned, adhered to my determination
to lay the vessel up at Fernando Po and return
to England. On my informing Mr. Lander of

268 DEPARTURE OF THE ALBURKAH.

this, he strongly recommended Prince's Island in
preference, from many advantages it possessed
over Fernando Po. Mr. Lander also informed
me, to my great surprise, that he had added to
our flotilla, by purchasing a schooner for the ex-
pedition, in which he was desirous I should take
my passage home, as he represented her as a
vessel calculated to make a quick voyage.

I was very sorry to part with Mr. Oldfield,
who had been of essential service to me during
the fortnight he was with me, my sores having
healed rapidly under his treatment, and the
cutaneous disease appearing to be eradicated.
Dropsy had, however, come on, and I was al-
ready very much swelled. It seemed to be fated
that I should not recover from one attack before
another was ready to commence upon me.

The Alburkah left us on her voyage to Boussa
on the morning of the 27th ; and I intended to
have started at the same time, but was anxious
to obtain one of the small country horses to
take down to the coast, and one or two bullocks,
which run wild in the bush here, and though
small, are the fattest and best I have met with.
I sent Mr. Hector on shore to the king to ask
permission to shoot one, which he immediately

QUORRA AGROUND. 269

granted, with the proviso that he was not to
shoot a female one. Unfortunately the Kroomen
brought down a cow, which gave great offence
and spoilt my market for the horses.

On the 28th I got under weigh, and in a few
hours was off Damuggoo, going down at the rate
of ten or twelve miles an hour. When immedi-
ately opposite the village, a sandbank brought
us up with such a shock, that I thought the ves-
sel must have stove her bows in. I was lying
upon the skylight, and was pitched off upon the
deck. Harvey, who was on the paddle-box con-
ning the vessel, saved himself by clinging to the
fore-topmast backstay. The man at the wheel
and all upon deck were laid prostrate. On get-
ting the boat out, we found ourselves upon a
bank, with only one foot water upon it ; and the
vessel had run up so high, that it was impossible
to get her off without waiting for the water ris-
ing, or the bank washing away. It was a me-
lancholy spot to remain in, for immediately op-
posite we had deposited the remains of nine of
our companions on our voyage up.

We continued, nevertheless, aground for thir-
teen days, when the gradual rise of the river
floated us over the bank into nine fathoms

270 INTERVIEW WITH KING OBIE

water. The morning afterwards we got under
weigh, and came to anchor off the town of Eboe
on the evening of the 9th of August.

In the morning we were visited by a great
number of the inhabitants, and, amongst the rest,
by our fat female friend, who was overjoyed to
see us, and brought a supply of palm-wine and
bananas as a present. Obie sent his two sons
on board to offer us anything we wanted, and
to invite me to visit him. As I was by no means
well, and still unable to walk, I sent Hector,
whom he received very kindly, but was disappoint-
ed I did not visit him. He promised to send
one thousand yams and twenty canoes loaded
with wood on board the vessel in the morning,
provided I would go ashore and visit him, as he
wished to speak to me about the palm-oil trade.

In the morning I went ashore, taking Mr.
Hector with me, and was carried up to Obie's
house, who received me with great kindness.
The palaver began by his complaining, that we
traded with every person but him ; that he was
the greatest palm-oil king, had command of the
river, and would not allow us to pass in future
unless we bought and sold with him. To this
very sensible remark, I replied, that we were not

CONCERNING THE TRADE. 271

aware of his having palm-oil in such plenty, and
did not know what goods he wished in return.
He enumerated the following, and their rotation
will show the value he set upon them : —

1st, Cowries.

2nd, Red cloth.

3rd, Red beads (mock coral).

4th, Soldiers' jackets.

5th, Romals and Bandana handkerchiefs.

6th, Rum.

7th, Muskets and powder.

This may be considered a list of the goods
most suitable for the Eboe market; and I was
surprised to see that he placed as the last in his
list, guns, powder, and rum. He expressed him-
self with great contempt respecting the Brass and
Bonny people, whom he characterised as rogues
and vagabonds, that were obliged to come to his
country to get their provisions, and said, if we
would only promise to trade direct with him, he
would send his two sons to our country to be
made to know white men's palaver. His second
son is a remarkably handsome, intelligent lad of
sixteen, and I regretted that it was out of my
power to take him. He had lent Mr. Lander
four boys to assist him in working his boat up

272 DELINQUENCY OF TWO NATIVE BOYS.

the river : I had brought these down with me,
and upon examining their things when leaving
the vessel, found that two of them had secreted
a number of articles in their mats. Of course I
detained them, intending to flog them. I now
told Obie of their conduct and my intention,
and requested him to send his sons to witness the
punishment. He made some objections to my
flogging his people. I persisted in my intention,
as they had been caught in the fact, and in our
present situation the slightest symptom of weak-
ness or indecision would have ruined us. I asked
him to give me the two other boys, one of whom
was acting as my servant, which he readily ac-
ceded to, saying I might have a dozen more if
I liked.

On taking my leave, he accompanied me to
the water-side, and I returned on board com-
pletely exhausted. During my absence a great
quantity of wood had been brought aboard, and
I found that we most probably should be ready
to start the next night.

In the morning the two young princes came ofl"
to witness the punishment of the boys. They
were accompanied by a great number of canoes,
and I must confess I felt rather nervous about

KINDNESS OF KING OBIE. 273

the result. However, it all passed over very
quietly ; and when the boys were cast off, they
were greeted by a general laugh from the
people, who had been looking on. Three
canoes loaded with most beautiful yams came
alongside as a present from Obie, and another
with some goats and a small bullock. In return,
I sent him a present of a variety of things, and
in the morning afterwards, having received on
board sufficient wood to take the vessel to the
mouth of the river, departed from Eboe. If I
had been pleased with Obie's character before,
I was much more so now. I had been complete-
ly in his power : the vessel's decks were crowded
with his people; they were aware that out of the
five white men I had living, three were confined
to their hammocks ; and yet I was received with
more kindness, and had more respect paid to
me, than when I visited the place before, with all
my crew living, and in full health and strength.

The only incident that is worth relating on our
passage from Eboe to the sea, was our mistaking
the Warree for the Nun branch, and proceeding
some miles down it before finding out our mis-
take. We had six or seven fathoms water in it ;
but where we turned, it appeared to spread out

VOL. I. T

274 MOUTH OF THE RIVER.

to a considerable extent, which in alluvial soil
is a sure sign of shallow water.

On the 19th of August we saw once more the
salt water, and came to anchor astern of the
brig Columbine. Coming as we did from the in-
terior, we felt the sea-breeze piercingly cold, and
were glad in the evening to take up our old
quarters in the cabin.

I found the Columbine in charge of a stranger ;
this person and one of her apprentices were the
only white people on board ; the remainder had
gone in the schooner on a cruise to Fernando Po.
After waiting until the 2l6th in hopes of the
crew of the brig returning, I got under weigh
with the Quorra. I took the brig in tow and at-
tempted to cross the bar with her, when, about
half-way between the entrance of the river and
the bar, a squall from the sea prevented our pro-
gress. The anchors of both vessels were let go
instantly, and we brought up within fifty yards
of the breakers on the eastern reef. While the
squall lasted, the engine was kept working, and
was one means of preventing our dragging.

As it was too late to attempt the bar again on
that afternoon, we remained there riding very
heavily. In the evening the schooner came in

FERNANDO PO. ^75

with the brig's crew, who were not a little sur-
prised to see their vessel unmoored and half-way
across the bar. With the morning's tide we
again got under weigh, and succeeded in crossing
the bar, on which we found eighteen feet at one
quarter ebb : the sea upon it was terrific, the
brig pitching jib-boom under.

On the 2l8th I saw the high land of Fernando
Po, and getting up steam in the Quorra, ran
into Clarence Cove at three o'clock the next
morning, the brig and schooner following the
same day in the afternoon.

On landing at Fernando Po, I was most hospi-
tably received by Colonel Nicolls, who insisted
on my taking up my abode with him during my
stay in the island, and to whose judicious care
and kindness I am indebted in a great measure
for my complete restoration to health.

Two Liverpool vessels were in the bay, and the
William Harris, transport, whose commander,
Mr. Terry, was recovering from a severe fever he
had been attacked with at Sierra Leone. On
board one of the Liverpool ships, the Richard
Rimmer, I unexpectedly met an old acquaint-
ance, Mr. Jeffrey, who looked as well as if he
had been direct from England, though he had

T 2

276 TRIP TO CALEBAR.

been several months at Bonny. His surprise at
meeting me was equally great, as the general
opinion was that we were all dead on board the
Quorra : indeed the variety of reports in cir-
culation (some of them not the most flattering to
my vanity) at Fernando Po was quite ridicu-
lous ; and I found, as I suspect most people in the
same situation will find, that every reason except
the true one was assigned as the cause of the
failure of the expedition.

By Mr. Jeffrey, who sailed the next morning,
I communicated to my friends in Liverpool my
arrival, and my intention to procure a charter
for the Columbine and bring her home myself,
if I did not succeed in finding a commander for
her, — informing them at the same time of the
complete failure of the expedition as a mercan-
tile speculation.

Three days afterwards, I ran the Quorra
over to Calebar, accompanied by Colonel NicoUs,
who was desirous of a personal interview with
Duke Ephraim, on the subject of the slave-
trade. Calebar has been so long frequented
by British vessels, and so ably described by
Lieutenant Holman, that a description of it

DUKE EPHRAIM. 277

now would be superfluous. I may remark, how-
ever, that I was much struck by the extreme de-
moralisation and barbarism of the inhabitants,
in comparison with the natives of the interior.
The human skulls that are seen in every direc-
tion, and that are actually kicking about the
streets, attest the depravity of feeling among the
people, and add another to the long list of me-
lancholy proofs of the debasing effects of Euro-
pean intercourse with savage nations, when go-
verned solely by the love of gain.

Colonel Nicolls entertained Duke Ephraim
and a great number of his followers at breakfast
on board the Quorra, and, with the exception of
the duke and three or four of his headmen, a
more disgusting and swinish assemblage I never
met with : far inferior were they to the Eboes,
and not to be compared with the decent and
well-behaved inhabitants of Addah Kuddah, and
other towns in the interior.

The duke's idol was brought on board, — a little
abominable figure of clay : the bearer of it fol-
lowed him everywhere, and stood behind him
during breakfast. As the Quorra was the first
steam-vessel that had ever been at Calebar, we

278 RETURN TO FERNANDO PO.

made an excursion up the river for ten or twelve
miles, to the great delight of our guests and the
inhabitants.

There were three Liverpool vessels lying
opposite the town, loading with palm-oil and
red wood, of which articles this port annually
exports from four to five thousand tons of the
former, and great quantities of the latter.

After remaining three days, we returned to
Fernando Po, which is distant from the mouth of
the river about fifty miles; Duke's Town, where
the ships lay to take in their cargoes, being sixty
miles inland. From the entrance, or Tom Shot's
Point, as it is called, to Duke's Town, it is a
complete swamp, overgrown with mangroves, by
which the vessels are shut in, the sea-breeze pass-
ing over it, imbibes the malaria arising from it,
and causes the great mortality that distinguishes
this port even upon this deadly coast.

On my return to Fernando Po, I recovered ra-
pidly, and was able to walk and ride about in a
fortnight after my arrival. The splendid scenery
that distinguishes this beautiful island is well
known from former descriptions, and to persons
coming from the low marshy shore of the main
land has indescribable charms. The view from

SPLENDID SCENERY. 279

the galleries of the Government House on a
clear moonlight night, I never saw equalled, nor
can I conceive it surpassed. To the north-east,
the lofty peak of the Cameroons, rising to the im-
mense height of fourteen thousand feet, throws
its gigantic shadow half-way across the narrow
strait that separates the island from the main
land ; while the numerous little promontories and
beautiful coves that grace the shores of Goderich
Bay, throw light and shadow so exquisitely upon
the water, that one almost can imagine it a fairy
land. On the west, the spectator looks down
almost perpendicularly on the vessels in Clarence
Cove, which is a natural basin, surrounded by
cliffs of the most romantic shape, and a group of
little islands which Nature seems to have thrown
in to give a finish to the scene. Looking inland
towards the island, the peak is seen covered with
wood to the summit, with its sides furrowed with
deep ravines, and here and there a patch of
cleared land showing like a white spot in the
moonlight.

There is something inexpressibly soothing in a
serene moonlight night in the tropical climates :
the heat, fever, and agitation of the day are at an
end ; all Nature is hushed into quiet repose, and

280 THE SPANISH SLAVER.

sheds an influence over the mind which accords
well with her own peculiar stillness and compo-
sure. If she is beautiful in her calmness, she is
magnificent in her wrath. Often have I stood
watching the gradual appearance of a tornado :
its mutterings and growlings in the distance con-
trasting so forcibly with the deadly stillness that
pervades the atmosphere immediately around —
the immense cloud which like a funeral pall covers
the eastern horizon, occasionally illuminated by
flashes of the most intense and dazzling light-
ning, which only makes the darkness darker —
the rush and roar of its approach, and the peals
that accompany it, altogether form a picture that
it is impossible to describe.

I accompanied Colonel NicoUs to Cameroons,
who in his judicial capacity had to inquire into
some circumstances that had lately occurred
there, which, as they show the lawless state of
the coast, and the necessity for some resident
British power to curb it, I may be excused for
mentioning here. A short time before I reached
Fernando Po, Commander Trotter, of his Majes-
ty's brig Curlew, called at Prince's Island, and
there obtained information that a very suspicious
vessel, under Spanish colours, had been in Port

THE SPANISH SLAVER. 281

Antonio, and had gone over to the river Naza-
reth, on the main land, to load slaves. From the
freedom with which her crew had been spending
money, it was suspected she would prove to be
a pirate, (as indeed slavers generally on the out-
ward voyage make very little distinction between
meum and tuuni). He very promptly followed
her to Nazareth ; but his vessel drawing too much
water for the bar of that river, he was obliged to
enter it in his boats. On his approach, the crew
deserted the schooner, leaving a lighted match,
which happily was extinguished before communi-
cating with the powder by Captain Trotter and
his party. She was afterwards accidentally blown
up, and some lives were lost by the event. The
king of that part of the country, with whom the
Spanish captain and crew had taken refuge on
shore, refused to deliver them up, and Captain
Trotter not being able to force him, returned un-
successful to Fernando Po.

While he was there, Mr. Becroft, who has a
commercial establishment at Fernando Po, and
another at Bimbia, on the main land, went over
to the latter place in a small schooner ; and while
there, nine Spanish seamen arrived in a little
boat, worn out by fatigues and hardships. They

282 THE SPANISH PIRATES.

informed Mr. B. that they had belonged to the
Negro, a Spanish slaver from the Havana, that
had come from the southward, where they had
been wrecked, and they wished to get to Old
Calebar or Bonny to join some of their country-
men.

On his telling them he would take them to
Fernando Po, and from thence they might get to
Bonny, they hesitated a little ; but as their boat
had been stove in landing at Bimbia, they had no
alternative. On arriving at the island, they were
strictly examined by Colonel Nicolls and Com-
mander Trotter ; but all adhered to the same
story, that they were shipwrecked and in distress.
Colonel Nicolls seeing that one had a less har-
dened look than the rest, took him aside and
charged him with belonging to the Panda, the
piratical schooner that had been blown up in
the Nazareth. The fellow dropped on his knees
and confessed they were part of the crew, and
gave an account of the different vessels they had
plundered since leaving St. Thomas's. On being
confronted with the remainder, with the excep-
tion of the boatswain, they all confirmed his
statement, and a few days after my arrival this
man changed his story and made a full confes-

THE BIMBIA PILOT. 283

sion. Instead of proceeding to Bonny, they
were forwarded at the king's expense by the
transport to Ascension. I must confess that
my romance never had such a fall as when I saw
these pirates ; I expecting a fine-looking, dash-
ing, daring set of men ; — instead of which, they
were a parcel of the most mean-looking scoun-
drels I had ever seen, and my sympathy for those
they had plundered gave way to surprise at
their having made no resistance to such a set of
scarecrows. They reported that they had thrown
away a considerable number of dollars at Bimbia,
at their landing, to prevent suspicion in case
they had been found upon them, — and to recover
these dollars was one object of our visit.

We sailed at midnight, and in three hours
came to anchor off Bimbia. At daylight we ran
inside the island of that name, and came to an-
chor between it and the main land. We landed
after breakfast, and were received by Prince
William of Bimbia, who was rigged out for the
occasion in scarlet trousers, fustian shooting-
jacket, and a gold-laced hat. He described the
landing of the pirates, the swamping of their
boat, and paid into Colonel Nicolls's hands the
dollars that had been fished up by his people.

284 GREAT BASIN OF THE CAMEROONS.

He then introduced us to a dozen of his wives,
and accepted Colonel Nicolls's invitation to ac-
company us back to Fernando Po. We re-em-
barked immediately, and proceeding a short dis-
tance up Bimbia river, we struck off to the east-
ward, through a narrow mangrove creek, that
communicates with the river of Cameroons. In
common with similar creeks, it had a bar at both
ends, with only seven or eight feet water over
them, inside of which there were four or five
fathoms. This creek is about seven miles in
length, and not more in any part than one hun-
dred yards wide.

We entered the great basin of Cameroons
river in the afternoon, which appeared about nine
miles wide ; and after visiting the Doddingstons,
a large Liverpool ship lying ready for sea near
the entrance of the river, we came to anchor in
the evening, between King Bell's and King
Agua's towns, and received a visit from both these
potentates immediately on our arrival. The
only vessel we found at the towns was the Ame-
lia* of Jersey, trading with the natives for
palm-oil and ivory.

* The melancholy fate of her commander and the at-
tempt to condemn two innocent Kroomcn are well known.

KING agua's town. 285

In the morning we went ashore to visit
-King Agua, who received us on the beach.
The most striking article of his attire was an
enormous cocked-hat, evidently "made to or-
der," from its dimensions, and stuck round with
small circular looking-glasses, which had a most
dazzling effect as he bowed and scraped our
welcome.

After viewing his house, which was of two
stories, with a gallery surrounding it outside, we
walked through the town, which in order and
beauty far exceeded any thing I had yet seen in
Africa. It appeared to me the beau ideal of an
Indian town. The principal street is about three
quarters of a mile in length, about forty yards
wide, perfectly straight, and the houses being
all upon the same plan, give it a regular and
handsome appearance. In the course of our
ramble we paid a visit to a person whose native
impudence, aided by my countrymen's gulli-
bility, had rendered him notorious. We found
him reclining in his hut, attended by three of
his women, who were employed dressing a loath-
some sore upon his thigh. This man is a slave
to King Agua, and acts as pilot for vessels com-
ing into or going out of the river. In exercis-

286 THE BIMBIA PILOT.

ing his calling on board a Spanish slaver, he was
carried off with his canoemen, — a method of pro-
ceeding by no means rare. The vessel was cap-
tured off the Havana by one of our cruisers,
and he represented himself as Prince William of
Bimbia. This story was so plausibly told, and
he won the good feelings of the officers to such a
degree, that he not only escaped the apprentice-
ship (as it is called, by way of burlesque, I sup-
pose) to a Spanish master, but was favoured
with a passage in the gun-room to Portsmouth.
From thence he went to London, and was a lion
for a short time, — was converted, baptized, and,
after making promises to his patrons of his in-
fluence if ever they sent vessels to trade in his
dominions, took a passage in the William Harris,
transport, to Fernando Po, promising her com-
mander a handsome remuneration in ivory upon
his arrival. The imposture was of course im-
mediately discovered ; and he now figures in his
old capacity as pilot, and is only to be distin-
guished from his untravelled countrymen by an
increase to his original stock of roguery and
vice.

On our return from our walk, I was gratified
by an exhibition of maternal affection, which, I

PETER THE SLAVE. 287

regret to say, is but little known in this country.
Colonel Nicolls had brought with him one of his
boys, named Peter, a remarkably smart, active
lad, a recaptured slave. It seemed Peter was
a Cameroons boy, which we were not aware of
until our visit, when he was recognised by his
mother and claimed. The story of Peter being
carried off into slavery was exceedingly interest-
ing to us all, and as I am afraid it is a common
one in this unhappy country, I relate it, to show
that the evils of the slave-trade are not confined
to the enslaved. Peter's father was a respectable
trader in Cameroons, and, amongst other trans-
actions, bought a canoe from a Bimbia trader.
He paid half the price down for this canoe, and
gave his son Peter as a pawn (as it is termed
upon the coast) for the other half. A slave-
vessel came into Bimbia river, and Peter's new
master was actively engaged in supplying her
with slaves. On the day of her sailing, he was
to bring on board a quantity of fresh provisions,
for which he had received goods in payment be-
forehand, and left Peter as pawn with the slaver
until he had fulfilled his contract. This he did
as the slave-vessel was getting under weigh, and
demanded his pawn; but the commander, having

288 KING bell's town.

got clear of the river, refused to give him up,
and carried him off. The vessel fortunately
was captured, and condemned at Sierra Leone.
Peter was put to school there, and afterwards
was taken by Colonel Nicolls as his servant — had
accompanied him by mere accident to Came-
roons, and was recognised by his mother, after
five years' absence. His friends during this time
had not been idle. The news of his being carried
off soon reached them ; they commenced a par-
tisan warfare, in which Peter's father and several
others had already lost their lives, and numbers
had been made slaves.

Peter was offered by his master, the Colonel,
the option of returning to Fernando Po, or re-
maining with his mother ; and he wisely pre-
ferred the security of the English settlement.

After leaving King Agua's town, we paid a
visit to King Bell's, which is not so neat or clean
as the other. It is situated on the same bank of
the river, about a mile distant.

Another royal personage resides about three
miles up the river, but we did not pay him a
visit.

The two chiefs accompanied us on board to
witness a race between a canoe paddled by

REMAINS OF ENGLISH VESSELS. 289

sixty-five men, and Colonel Nicolls's Deal galley
paddled by twenty-two Kroomen. The canoe
was much larger than any I had seen amongst
the Eboes, and measured above sixty-five feet in
length ; — an immense length for the single tree
of which she was composed, and that tree hard
wood. Notwithstanding the exertions of her
crew, she was easily beaten by the galley, to the
great astonishment of the natives, and triumph
of our Kroomen.

We departed on the succeeding morning, sa-
luting the towns, and, calling for letters on board
the Doddingstons, went by the outside passage
to Bimbia, where we arrived in the afternoon.
In coming out of Cameroons I saw the remains
of the Susan. This vessel was in the Nun when
I entered the river: she had been abandoned by
the crew off Prince's, and the current had car-
ried her into Cameroons river, — a convincing
proof that there existed no real necessity for her
being abandoned. On the main land of Came-
roons were the remains of another English vessel,
which it must have required no common in-
genuity to lose in such a place.

On our arrival at Bimbia, we gave judgment
in an appeal-case relative to the death of a slave

VOL. 1. u

290 TECHNICAL TERMS.

The owner of the slave was his own counsel,
and from his description there never had been,
nor would be such another. The defendant re-
plied in an animated strain, and after listening
for two hours we decided in favour of the
plaintiff, reducing his demand, however, consi-
derably. The English language, every person
knows, is capable of an infinite variety of dia-
lects ; but no amateur, however well acquainted
with the King's English as spoken by the Lan-
cashire, Somersetshire, or Yorkshire peasantry, —
or, what is much worse, with its clippings and
curtailings by the cockneys, — can imagine the
variety it is capable of, without visiting the coast
of Africa. In Bonny, everything is " a good
or bad palaver ;" in another place it is " a good
or bad go ;" and in Cameroons, everything is
" a good or bad bob." Our " bob," unlike most
" bobs," was highly satisfactory ; and we had all
the gratification of preventing a feud between
parties that, like Peter's, might have cost the life
and freedom of many.

In the morning. Prince William and two of his
wives came on board, as Colonel Nicolls had in-
vited them to pay him a visit. The youngest was
the favourite, as she was the last, I presume ; but

NATIVE TASTES. 291

the other was a much handsomer woman, and was
really beautifully tatooed, which I do not dislike
on a black ground, as in the absence of clothing
it gives a finish to the skin. Through their ears
and the cartilage of their noses, these ladies had
pieces of ivory inserted about nine inches long ;
or, as the sailors called them, they had their
'* sprit- sail-yards and studding-sail-booms rigged
out." I cannot say much for their feminine
tastes, as they preferred rum to tea, and salt
pork to the wing of a chicken ! Their hair was
dressed in a helmet-fashion, and looked very be-
coming,— even elegant : as to their bracelets,
necklaces, and leglets, it would require an ama-
teur of fashion to describe them.

On leaving Bimbia we ran along the coast as
far as the entrance to the Rio del Rey, passing
inside the beautiful little islands called the Am-
boisas, which form a secure and sheltered har-
bour for vessels blown oif the mouth of the Came-
roons river by tornados, and arrived at Clarence
Cove in the afternoon.

u 2

292 PROCEED TO CALEBAR.

CHAPTER XII.

Proceed to Calebar. — The French Captain. — Barbarous
Practices on the Death of a Chief. — Native Wrestlers. —
Return to Fernando Po. — A Slaver captured. — Fer-
nando Po. — Its advantageous Situation and Climate con-
sidered. — Natives and their Habits. — Voyage to Liver-
pool.— A rrival.

As I had discovered that some of the copper
sheathing had been rubbed off the Quorra's
bottom, I was obliged to pay another visit to
Calebar, there not being rise and fall of tide suf-
ficient at Clarence Cove to lay her aground.

On my arrival there, I found a brig under
Brazilian colours, commanded by M. Gaspar, a
French gentleman, who had settled at Bahia, and
had come out in his vessel to lay in a cargo of
dyewood. As taking dyewood to the Brazils ap-
peared to me very like taking " coals to New-
castle," I took it for granted that he had a very
different object in view, and, instead of dyewood.

THE FRENCH CAPTAIN. 293

was collecting a cargo of slaves for the Brazil
market, — or, in the parlance of the coast, buying
" ebony." The brig he had arrived in was an old
crazy hulk, and certainly had not any thing sus-
picious about her. As to Gaspar, he was a most
agreeable fellow, had served under Napoleon, was
a survivor of the Russian campaign, and made a
most entertaining and amusing companion. His
oflScers were Portuguese ; and a more unprepos-
sessing-looking set I have seldom seen, contrast-
ing strongly with the gentlemanly manner and
appearance of their commander. His ridicule of
British cruizers and his stories of his numerous
escapes from them were related with infinite
glee ; and if one could have forgotten the charac-
ter of the speaker and nature of his trade, he
would have tempted any man to make a voyage
with him.

I witnessed a most barbarous dance here, in
honour of a chief who had died a few days before
my arrival ; at the end of which, several goats
were decapitated as offerings to his manes. All
the chief men of the place were assembled there,
except Duke Ephraim, who, I have no doubt, se-
cretly laughs at his subjects' folly. There is one
thing to be said in his favour, however : the

294 BARBAROUS PRACTICES.

human sacrifices that were openly performed on
the shore, in the day-time, are now perpetrated
under the veil of night, and are not so numerous
as formerly. I am aware that this is saying lit-
tle ; but it proves, I think, that they are getting
ashamed of their religion. The commander of
one of the Liverpool ships that was lying there
assured me that within his memory these sacrifices
had decreased considerably, but that on the death
of a chief they were still common. The chief,
part of whose obsequies I had witnessed, belong-
ed to a village a short distance up the river; and
his canoe came down after his death, with the
skulls of the men who had paddled her stuck
upon each thwart, to the number of forty. That
such a state of society should exist where British
trade has been carried on to an enormous extent
and for a considerable time, may well excite as-
tonishment in those not aware of the diabolical
influence which the slave-trade exerts both upon
the enslaved and upon the enslaver.

After witnessing the dance, we dined with
Duke Ephraim, who entertains all strangers
every Sunday. The weather was excessively
hot, — and we had an equally hot dinner, consist-
ing of black soup, Calebar chop, palm-oil stew.

NATIVE WRESTLERS. 295

and a variety of other African dainties, with
pepper enough in them to have scalded a silver
spoon. After dinner we adjourned to an open
space of ground, to witness a wrestling-match,
between Jacko, a member of the Cameroons Club,
(whom we had brought over for the purpose,) and
the champion of Calebar. The stakes were, two
chests of guns, two barrels of powder, and ten
pieces of cloth, altogether of the value of forty
or fifty pounds ; and as the match had been long
talked of, it excited great interest amongst the
inhabitants. The wrestlers were both powerful
men; but the Calebar hero had evidently been
sleeping upon his laurels, and was too much in
flesh. Jacko was not so tall as his antagonist, but
was, I think, without exception, the broadest man
over the shoulders I ever saw, — his legs and arms
were literally cables of muscles. They were both
oiled all over, and commenced play by approach-
ing each other in a stooping position, scraping
the ground with their hands, to get the sand to
adhere to their oily fingers. The Calebar man
made the first spring; which was skilfully avoid-
ed by Jacko, who, as his opponent flew past him,
caught him by one of his ancles, and throwing
him a complete summerset, landed him on his

296 TEREDO NAVALIS.

back with a shock that left him insensible for a
few minutes. They Mere re-oiled, and made
play again more cautiously. We now saw an in-
teresting display. Laying their left hands upon
each other's shoulders, they alternately caught at
the heads and legs of each other. After a severe
struggle the victory was again Jacko's, who took
his gigantic antagonist under the knee, lifted him
fairly in the air, and threw him in the most ap-
proved style, his shoulder-blades first touching
the ground. Although there were between two
and three thousand people present, and their
champion had been overthrown, the greatest
good humour prevailed, and the two principals
walked off the ground, the observed of all ob-
servers, in a most amicable way.

On laying the Quorra aground, we were for-
tunately enabled to replace the copper sheathing
which had been rubbed off from her bottom,
as in these seas the " teredo navalis " abounds
in an extraordinary degree. The exposure to
which I was subjected while doing this, how-
ever, brought on a severe return of intermit-
tent fever, and I was glad to change the close
and pestilential atmosphere of Calebar for the
clear and salubrious air of Clarence Cove.

SLAVER CAPTURED. 297

A few days after my return, I had an attack of
cramp in the stomach, which, if it had not been
for the prompt assistance of Colonel Nicolls, who
heard me fall out of my bed, would most probably
have terminated fatally. This, in addition to my
daily fever, confined me for some time, and was
the more annoying, as it prevented me from ac-
companying the colonel to his station upon the
hill, which I was very desirous of visiting, as it
is considerably above the fever-level.

Mr. Becroft, who had returned to Calebar in
the Alfred, a brig that arrived from England
belonging to his firm, brought information that
a large square-rigged schooner under Spanish
colours was lying at the entrance of the river,
and that Monsieur Gaspar had the slaves collect-
ed for her. A few days afterwards two vessels
hove in sight, and proved to be his Majesty's
brig Brisk, and a prize, which, upon Lieute-
nant Thompson landing, we were delighted to
hear was the schooner from Calebar, with three
hundred and thirty-three slaves on board. The
prize did not come in, but stood away to lee-
ward off the island, on her passage to Sierra
Leone for adjudication. As usual, she had been
stumbled on by mere chance. The Brisk was

298 ADJUDICATION OF PRIZES.

blockading Bonny, in which river there were
eleven slavers. Being out of provisions and
water, she was obliged to leave her station, and
was running down to Fernando Po for supplies,
when she fortunately fell in with the schooner,
that had only left Calebar forty-eight hours
before, and, afraid of being seen from the set-
tlement of Clarence, had attempted to weather
the island. If she had gone the usual route be-
tween Cameroons and the island, the probability
is, she would have got clear off. * -

If Fernando Po had been the seat of the
mixed commission court, the slaves would have
been landed in twelve hours after their capture,
and the prize-crew restored to their own vessel ;
in place of which, the prize had to make a voyage
of two thousand miles, would most probably lose
a great number of the slaves, and so weaken the
crew of the Brisk, that she would have to pro-
ceed to Sierra Leone to get them back, leaving
Bonny totally unguarded, instead of being back
at her station in twenty-four hours. This may

* Since my arrival in England, I have heard that my ac-
quaintance M. Gaspar got safely off with the next cargo of
four hundred and fifty slaves, about a fortnight after this
capture.

CLIMATE OF FERNANDO PO. 299

be stated as the case with respect to five-
sixths of the captures that are made in the
Bights of Benin and Biafra.

The period of my stay on the island now
drew rapidly to a close ; and on the 29th of Octo-
ber I took leave of my kind and generous host.
Colonel Nicolls^ feeling most sincerely that I had
incurred, during my residence of two months on
the island, a debt of gratitude that I should
never be able to repay. To Mr. Becroft and
Dr. Butter I am under great obligations, both
for their attentions to myself and to my crew,
and I take this opportunity of returning them
my sincere and heartfelt thanks.

Fernando Po has been alternately represented
as an African paradise, and vilified as the most
pestilential spot on that unhealthy coast. I found
it neither the one nor the other. That it is
much healther than the main land is obvious ; for
one is a swamp — the other a dry and elevated
island, exposed on all sides to the sea-breeze^
and free from that excessive humidity which so
fatally distinguishes the neighbouring coast.
During my stay there, the crews both of the brig
and the steamer recovered rapidly ; and individu-
ally I should have left the island in comparative

300 CLIMATE OF FERNANDO PO.

health, had I not exposed myself at Calebar
and relapsed in consequence. I certainly lost one
man while lying there : he went on shore, got
drunk, and slept upon the grass, exposed to heavy
rain, — which would kill most men in any country.
Fernando Po has acquired the reputation
of being unhealthy and pestilential from two
causes : — one, that Europeans were employed as
artificers in the erection and construction of the
buildings, instead of coloured people. If it be
difficult in England to keep mechanics steady, it
is impossible to do so in a tropical climate ; and
if to this be added the exposure while clearing the
ground of the jungle, it will excite no surprise
that the residents suffered so much from sick-
ness, and lost so many upon their first landing.
The other cause of complaint is, that a great
part of the mortality that takes place at Fernan-
do Po is from diseases contracted on the main
land, which in common fairness should not be
charged upon the island. Several Europeans
died in the hospital during my residence there ;
but they had been landed from ships, in the last
stages of disease. Leaving the mortality cre-
ated by these two causes, — one of which (the
clearing, &c.) will not occur again, and the

ITS ADVANTAGEOUS SITUATION. 301

other, which, being a foreign one, should not be
taken into the calculation, the mortality of Fer-
nando Po will be found much less than that of
other settlements upon that coast, if it be not
upon a par with the most healthy of our West
Indian colonies.

Fernando Po has one advantage over any
other situation upon the coast : its elevation is
so great, that any climate may be obtained there,
and an hospital might be established above the
fever-level. In fact. Colonel Nicolls had cut a
road up the mountain, and built a small house
above the fever-range ; and I had the pleasure of
seeing at Calebar, Mr. Ballard, a gentleman who
was carried up in a hammock, in the last stage
of fever, and had recovered immediately. The
fact that marsh-fever does not exist above a cer-
tain level (I believe three thousand feet above
the sea) is well known ; and as all African fevers
are varieties produced by marsh miasma, Fernan-
do Po may be said to have been placed by Nature
in its present position as the natural hospital for
the low and marshy shores of the main land. The
native population of Fernando Po may be about
five thousand, divided into tribes, that were for-
merly constantly at war with each other; but

302 INHABITANTS OF

through the exertions of Colonel Nicolls, and
the influence he possessed, combined with the
confidence they repose in the justice of his de-
cisions, referring every dispute to him ; they are
now living in peace and amity.

They are a well-made athletic people, rather
under the middle size, with a much more intelli-
gent countenance than their neighbours on the
opposite coast. It has been said that they have
a cross of Portuguese blood in them, from the
crew of a Portuguese vessel that was lost on the
island in the early ages of discovery. Of this I
think there is no proof, unless their abominably
dirty habits may be adduced as establishing the
relationship ; the Portuguese being the dirtiest of
European nations, and the Boobies (the name of
the inhabitants of Fernando Po) the dirtiest of
the blacks.

They cultivate yams in large quantities, and
are great fishermen ; they are exceedingly fond of
the entrails of fowls and sheep, which after slap-
ping upon their shoulder a few times, they draw
across the fire and eat with great relish. Small
deer abound in this island ; and Colonel Nicolis
was regularly supplied with them by the natives,
who take them in snares, and claim in return
a little powder and shot to shoot monkeys.

FERNANDO PO. 303

which form their favourite food : deer they do
not eat, from some prejudice or superstition,
much the same perhaps as that which makes us
prefer the deer to the monkey.

I do not think that slavery is known amongst
them ; they certainly do not trade in human flesh,
and have several times had bloody engagements
with slavers who have landed and attempted to
surprise and carry them off. This may explain
their free and independent bearing, contrasted
with the abject demeanour of the Calebar and
Cameroons people, to both of which places I took
my friend, the chief Cut-throat, and several of his
tribe, and was much struck with the comparison.

The improvement which has taken place in
the island, is not visible in the outward appear-
ance of the natives, as they still go perfectly
naked, and plaster themselves over with oil and
clay. But as they are beginning to collect palm-
oil and bring it to market, there is little doubt
that the comforts and conveniences of civilised life
which they receive in return for produce will
silently and gradually improve their condition.

Fernando Po is of volcanic formation, in com-
mon with the other islands in the Bight of Biafra,
and most probably forms part of the great vol-
canic chain which appears to run from the paral-

304 ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL.

lei of the Cape from south-south-west to north-
north-east ; St. Helena being the centre, and Ca-
meroons and Tristan da Cunha the extremities.*

The incidents of a winter passage home with
a sickly crew can afford little to interest, and
I shall merely state, that after leaving Fernando
Po I encountered adverse winds and currents
until I reached Annabona, off which I lay-to for
two hours. On the 28th of November, having
been thirty days in beating down the African
coast, we found ourselves in the south-east trade-
wind ; on the 30th of December we made Tus-
kar lighthouse in the St. George's Channel, and
on New-year's Day arrived in Liverpool com-
pletly worn out, having encountered nothing but
gales of wind from the time we left the north-
east trade.

On the 4th of December we committed to the
deep the body of William Davies, one of the
men belonging to the Quorra, who was seized
with madness three days after leaving Fer-
nando Po ; and on Christmas Day, one of our
best hands was disabled by a fall from the main-
topsail yard-arm, while taking in the third reef.

* All the Atlantic islands are said to be of volcanic origin.

MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. 305

He had a most miraculous escape both from
drowning and a more cruel death. The vessel was
scudding under a double-reefed topsail and fore-
sail, and going about nine and a half knots, with
a heavy sea running, when I sent the men up to
take in the third reef of the main-topsail. He
was out on the yard-arm next the weather ear-
ing, when the sail got loose and flung him upon
deck between a spar and a gun, where he lay in-
sensible, and I thought dead, for some time. On
taking him into the cabin, I stripped and bled
him, and, to my surprise, found he had not a bone
broken. After rubbing him over with brandy, I
gave him a dose of laudanum ; and by the time
he got to Liverpool, he was able to walk. He
owed his life principally to the vessel rolling to
port at the time he fell; — his extreme fatness
was also much in his favour.

Belfringe, one of the Quorra's crew, died a few
days after landing in Liverpool, from exhaustion
and general debility.

VOL. I.

MR. OLDFIELD'S JOURNAL.

CHAPTER I.

Commencement of Sickness in the Vessels of the Expedition. —
Symptoms of the Fever. — The Boatsivain and Commander
of the Quorra die. — Remain in the Columbine. — Departure
of the Steamers up the River. — The Brig Susan. — The Bar
of the Nun. — Landers' Journals. — Loss of the Sttsa?i. —
Town of Cassa; character of the Natives. — Neivs of the
Steamers. — Set out to visit Brass Toivn. — King Boy's
Canoe and its contents. — Fish Town. — Superstitions a7id
Ceremonies. — The Kings Daughters. — Preparations for
Arrival at Brass. — Landing. — The King's Residence. —
Observations on Brass Town. — Funeral Ceremony. — Des-
potism of the African Chiefs. — Return on board the Colum-
bine.

Having accompanied the expedition, the pro-
ceedings of which have been related in Mr.
Laird's journal, to the period of the departure
of the two steam-vessels up the Nun, the few
remarks I might have to make on our passage
out have been principally anticipated by that

X 2

308 COMMENCEMENT OF SICKNESS.

gentleman. I may briefly state, that my ap-
pointment as junior surgeon to the party took
place at Liverpool, and that I had scarcely ar-
rived on the coast in the Alburkah when my pro-
fessional services were put in requisition by the
effects of the climate.

After leaving York in the Alburkah, the first
person attacked was Mr. M'Kenzie, the boat-
swain : Captain Hill, and Smith, a seaman, were
also attacked with the same symptoms of epide-
mic fever. The boatswain appeared to labour
under a presentiment that he should not recover,
and giving himself up to melancholy, desired to
be left at York, as he preferred dying on shore
to doing so at sea. Notwithstanding this un-
favourable condition of his mind, he recovered
like the rest, but was again seized with fever,
and died within a week of his first attack. *

* The symptoms of the fever did not vary much in these
cases from those which occurred on board the Quorra at
the same time, as Dr. Briggs and I found on comparing our
notes. The patients first complained of giddiness, sHght
pain across the forehead and at the back of the orbits ; pulse
quick, tongue white and red at the tip, obscure vision, great
prostration of strength, sometimes vomiting a dark-coloured
matter, and great thirst. After the first few hours, the pa-
tient appeared anxious to avoid all communication with any
one, and remained in his hammock, or concealed himself in

BAR OF THE NUN RIVER. 309

The day after our arrival at Cape Coast, I
found that Dr. Briggs had three officers and se-
veral men sick in the Quorra, and had landed a
man named Morgan in the care of the surgeon
of the fort, who afterwards died. The Colum-
bine had two sick on board at the same time, and
in the Alburkah we had the chief mate and four
men sick.

In crossing the bar of the Nun river, the
Alburkah was drifted by the current over to the
eastern breakers, and was in great danger of be-
ing lost. Being much in want of fuel, we were
compelled to burn every disposable spar we could
find : even the jib-boom of the vessel, and boxes
of all kinds were condemned to the flames in
order to obtain sufficient steam to enter the
river. By this means we succeeded in doing so,

some obscure part of the vessel. When asked to state!»how he
felt, he would reply that he was quite well, and denied that he
suffered any pain. About the third day he became delirious ;
and from the fourth to the ninth day, death put an end to
his sufferings. The three patients alluded to were cupped
and blistered, their heads were shaved, and cold lotions
were applied, purgatives administered, and afterwards five
or ten grains of calomel given every four or six hours, until
ptyalism was slightly produced. Smith being a robust man,
was bled to thirty ounces, and lived several months after-
wards. He died up the river, of dysentery.

310 DEATHS OF M'KENZIE AND CAPT. HARRIES.

and anchored near the Quorra and Columbine,
at the expiration of eighty-five days from leaving
England.

The night before we entered the river, Mr.
M'Kenzie, the boatswain, died. He had been
seized a second time with fever. The day before
he died, he came on deck and appeared better.
About seven in the evening, I happened to go
into the forecastle, and found him lying on some
wood, quite dead. Poor fellow ! he was com-
mitted to the deep the same night with the pro-
per ceremony. The other invalids became better,
although his death tended greatly to depress
their spirits. The next morning a boat from the
Quorra visited us ; and I found that while the
sad ceremony was going forward, the same was
performing on board that vessel over the remains
of Captain Harries. The command of the
Quorra had devolved in consequence on Mr.
McGregor Laird, who held a considerable share
in the expedition.

On the 211st of October, I was engaged with
Dr. Briggs in selecting and packing medicines
for the two steam-vessels, to take with them up
the river. The opinion was that they would be
down again in two months ; but Dr. Briggs very

DEPARTURE OF THE STEAMERS. 3X1

properly determined on taking enough for five,
in addition to what each vessel had in her medi-
cine-chest. From the day of our arrival in the
river, to the departure of the vessels, every one
was employed in transhipping the goods on board
the Quorra, and supplying the vessels with coals
from the Columbine. It had been arranged be-
fore our departure from England, that the junior
medical officer was to remain on board the Co-
lumbine, at the mouth of the river, until the re-
turn of the steamers from the interior, which
was then expected to be in about two months;
and accordingly I took up my quarters on board
the brig, congratulating myself at the same time
that I had enjoyed the good fortune of being
one who had crossed the Atlantic in the first
iron steam-vessel that had ever been sent to
sea.

On the evening of the 2l5th of October, the
Quorra and Alburkah being quite ready for as-
cending the river, I took my leave of Mr. Lan-
der, and they departed under the hearty cheers
of the crew of the Columbine, which those in the
vessels returned with the usual spirit of British
seamen.

The excitement of the enterprise now gra-

312 THE BRIG SUSAN.

dually subsided in the minds of those who were
left on board the brig. The presence of the
vessels which had just departed, had served to
keep not only our heads, but our hands em-
ployed ; and as they were now gone, we had no-
thing to do but to lie still at our anchorage, and
dwell on the expectation of their return at the
end of that time which we had allowed them for
their voyage.

The first object which naturally attracted my
notice was the brig Susan, alluded to by Mr.
Laird, that was lying in the river, affording a
melancholy proof of the fatal effects of the
climate of this coast. She had been there nearly
nine months, and had received her cargo of palm-
oil ; but in consequence of the deaths of the crew,
consisting of nine persons, the captain, who was
also reduced to a skeleton, was unable to move
the vessel. He had purchased his palm-oil at the
rate of seven to nine pounds per ton, — a reason-
able price for the coast. I believe that oil may
be had much cheaper near this river than any
other ; but from the imperfect knowledge which
our vessels have of the passage over the bar,
it is not much frequented by them. I have
frequently sounded on the bar, and never found

MESSRS. LANDERS' JOURNALS. 313

less than a quarter less three fathoms ; and at
dead low water of spring tides, have found four
fathoms.

The reader is probably aware that Messrs.
Lander, in their celebrated expedition, lost their
journals as they were coming down the river, and
afterwards obtained a passage on board the brig
Martha, without having it in their power to
remunerate King Boy for ransoming them at
Eboe, owing to the strange conduct of the cap-
tain of the Thomas. King Boy had found these
journals, and sold them to Captain Townson of
the Susan, now in the river, for eight puncheons
of oil, or goods to purchase that quantity. On
our arrival King Boy stated to us that he had
given the books (journals) to the cappy (captain),
who had only given him in return for them the
price of three puncheons. A great deal of dissa-
tisfaction manifested itself in King Boy, and he
complained lustily of the very little he had re-
ceived for them. Captain Townson still per-
sisted that he had given Boy the price of eight
puncheons, and Mr. Lander presented him with
a bill on Government for the amount. However,
it was not forgotten by Boy ; for one afternoon,
when Townson was in the cabin of the Alburkah,

314 CAPT. TOWNSON AND KING BOY.

King Boy came on board. He seated himself
next to me. Captain Townson being on my right,
and began to complain of having received only
three puncheons. Captain Townson said he had
given bars or goods to the amount of eight pun-
cheons. King Boy said, '' No, no, cappy ; you lie,
lie, lie !" Townson, who was but a little man, for-
got himself so far as to reach over me and strike
his sable majesty a violent blow on the face, so
as to cut the inner side of his lip ; and a scene en-
sued which reflected no honour on the character
of the commander of a British merchant-ship.
Boy was not a little sulky, and uncommunicative
for the remainder of his stay ; but he seems to
be an avaricious man, grasping at all he can get,
and yet without appearing satisfied. Mr. Lander
had made him several very valuable presents —
fifteen or sixteen guns, two barrels of gunpow-
der, fifteen soldiers' canteens, knives, spoons, and
soldiers' coats, with various other articles, with
which he was not contented.

Captain Townson was in great want of provi-?
sions and men. Mr. Lander kindly ordered two
buckets of cocoa and coffee to be given him;
and two men who appeared unwilling to proceed
up the river, left the Quorra to join his ves-

LOSS OF THE SUSAN. 315

sel. I was also desired to supply him with me-
dicine and advice : I accordingly visited him and
his sick two or three times a day during his stay
in the river.

About the 6th or 7th of November, the Susan
having received assistance from the Columbine,
got under weigh and crossed the bar ; in doing
which she struck and started her stern post, but
suffered no other damage. She was afterwards
deserted off Prince's Island, and the wreck float-
ed into Bimbia and Cameroons, the natives reap-
ing a rich harvest from the palm-oil she had on
board. It was subsequently reported that the
brig had met with foul play, and that she had
been scuttled. She was evidently saved by us
but to be lost ; for in all probability, had we not
arrived when we did, she would have remained
in the river until she decayed. But the charac-
ter of Captain Townson was not the most hu-
mane. A man named Fanby had joined the
brig Susan from the Quorra steamer, who, after
being treated by him in a most brutal manner,
was turned adrift at Cassa or Pilot Town for
some misconduct. As soon as we heard of it, he
was taken on board the Columbine in a deplora-
ble condition, having been ashore nearly a fort-

316 FANBY, OF THE SUSAN.

night. The natives among whom the captain
had landed him at Cassa were little better than
savages, and in consequence he was almost starv-
ed to death, being obliged to subsist on ba-
nanas and dead rats. I afterwards had many
opportunities of witnessing the rat-feasts of
these natives, — and disgusting sights they are.
However, Fanby never recovered his accustomed
flow of good spirits ; something appeared to be
preying on his mind from the time he was taken
on board the Columbine. He behaved himself in
a very orderly manner to the time of his death,
which took place in a few weeks. The day before
he died, he complained of being very unwell,
but could not describe any particular pain : he
was on duty on deck in the evening when I went
into the forecastle, and he conversed with me
very rationally. At four the following morning
he went on deck, and at five was a corpse. Poor
fellow ! his remains were interred on a beautiful
island at the mouth of the river, surrounded by
the sea, but which has since been completely
washed away.

The Columbine was moored at the mouth of
the river, open to the sea-breeze, with one hun-
dred and thirty fathoms cable.

CASSA AND ITS INHABITANTS. 317

Dido, the pilot of Cassa, frequently visited us,
bringing yams, cocoa-nuts, and fowls for sale.
The town of Cassa, to which he belongs, consists
of about forty huts, irregularly built among plan-
tain and banana trees. There are also a great
many cocoa-nut trees, the property of the na-
tives. The method adopted by these people in as-
cending these lofty trees, is as follows : — A piece
of the bark of a tree is twisted into a rope, and
two pieces of it are used ; one is secured round
the body of the tree and right shoulder of the
native, the other round the left thigh and foot-
ing; he then raises his leg and foot, supporting
the upper part of the body, and gradually slips
up.

The natives of Cassa are a most indolent peo-
ple. Some few of the women paddle their own
canoes, and are very expert at spearing fish. They
also subsist on dogs, which they fatten for the
purpose, and consider monkeys a delicacy ; and
although they can boast of a few fine Spanish,
sheep, these are strictly kept as fetish, or sacred.
They frequently brought us fish for sale ; but
goats and sheep they could only obtain from the
Eboe people. Polygamy is common all over
Western Africa, each man calculating on his

318 THE PILOT DIDO.

women as property according to the trade they
make.

Dido has four wives, three of whom live with
him at Cassa, and one at Brass Town. He is
a slave of King Jacket's at Brass, and resides
here for the purpose of conducting vessels into
the river. He is a very shrewd, intelligent man,
and speaks good English. In all our dealings we
found him strictly honest. In his visits to us on
board the Columbine, this pilot generally brought
us the gossip of the'place, which he dealt out
with an air of great importance. Among other
stories, he told us of a report that the vessels had
been attacked in the little Eboe country, and
some white men killed. What degree of confi-
dence to put in this stat^ent, I did not know ;
but it appeared to me not unlikely to be true.
We now became every day more anxious for the
return of King Boy from the steamers with des-
patches. The last few mornings had been exces-
sively hot, and we had had several tornadoes from
the eastward, the good effects of which in clear-
ing and purifying the air were evident to us.

On the morning of the 13th of November, we
were agreeably surprised by the appearance of
King Boy, who brought us accounts from the

KING boy's canoe. 319

steamers. I received a letter from Captain Hill,
which partly confirmed the report of the pilot
"with reference to the affair which has been relat-
ed by Mr. Laird.

Being very desirous of visiting Brass Town
with the captain of the Columbine, after pre-
paring some blanket-dresses, and providing our-
selves with everything we had that was neces-
sary, we rowed up to Barracoon point. Here we
found King Boy's state canoe lying, and also four
of his wives, whose names* were Bella, Awanhee,
Nain, and Hoowarrh. There were also seven
slaves, a small bullock, and a goat and pig, at
this establishment. — It would be almost impossi-
ble to describe the various articles with which
this kmg's state canoe was loaded, most of which
were presents from Mr. Lander. Including thirty
pullaboys, and the slaves, wives, and other at-
tendants, there were upwards of fifty individuals
in the canoe, which was in consequence exceed-
ingly deep, and her gunwale nearly even with
the water's edge. In consequence of this, two
slaves were continually baling out the water as
fast as it found its way in. There did not appear
to be much regard to order or good feeling
among those in the canoe, for I was concern-

320 AND ITS CONTENTS.

ed to see one of the female slaves crushed for
want of room: in her arms she held an infant
about five days old, and both mother and child
appeared to have had their heads shaved that
afternoon. Among the rest were six men, na-
tives of the Eboe and Ibbodoh country. Each
country has its peculiar distinguishing mark
which is adopted by its people, and the latter
had a longitudinal incision from the external
angle of the eye to the mouth. I learnt from
King Boy that he pays two muskets, two jack-
ets, and a few yards of printed cotton, for each
of his slaves, and that two slaves are equal in
value to a puncheon of oil in the Eboe country.

As the object of our visit was to accompany
King Boy to Brass, we embarked in his canoe,
and were placed in the centre of the fore part of
it.* Immediately below us were barrels of pow-
der, cutlasses, guns, cans, small swivels, poultry,
yams, a wild pig, and a small bullock about
the size of an English calf, all the property of
King Boy ; and surely never had he reaped such
a golden harvest as he had now done from the
two steamers, and was carrying off to his abode.

* In the stein of the canoe a large fire was kept burning on
some wet sand.

VOYAGE TO BRASS TOWN. 321

The pullaboys were seated on each side of us ; a
mat was spread for us to lie upon, and a pole
ran fore and aft in the centre of the canoe, over
which was placed another mat to prevent the
dew or rain from wetting us. Having on my
blanket-dress, and being wrapped in my cloak, I
lay down in the canoe after taking the precau-
tion to place a union jack over our heads in the
form of a curtain as a protection from the mos-
quitoes, and we set out on our voyage. The
pullaboys appeared to be greatly fatigued, having
been paddling four days and nights on their pass-
age from Eboe. I found from Boy that a Brass
canoe takes seven or eight days to reach Eboe
from Brass, and four to return. One of the crew,
who I found was dignified with the title of King
Boy's mate, amused us much by singing a
country song. As he chanted each verse or
part, the pullaboys would repeat the same words
twice over, and then, after flourishing their pad-
dles over their head, would dash them into the
water, and applying all their strength, propel
the canoe with great velocity. We had besides
a current in our favour of about three and
a half knots per hour ; so that we got on toler-
ably well.

VOL. I. Y

322 FISH TOWN.

Previously to our leaving the Nun, we were
given to understand that our journey would be
ended by sunrise on the morning after we had
set out ; and as King Boy promised us plenty of
chop to eat, we had merely taken with us a few
little biscuits. About eleven o'clock we stopped
at a town on the left bank, consisting of a few
huts, named Fish Town. This town is inhabited
chiefly by fishermen, who dry large quantities of
fish. The method of drying them is by placing
them about ten feet above a wood-fire in the
smoke for a few hours. A great number of
oyster-shells were lying about the bank, which
the natives calcine and convert into a good chalk.
The pullaboys remained here about two hours to
rest. Having had nothing to eat since we start-
ed, I found the cravings of nature so powerful,
that I gladly partook of what I could not have
been induced to do at another time. This was
a cold piece of boiled yam saturated with Mala-
getta pepper, which tasted as unpleasant as cold
potatoe dipped in vitriolic acid.

About one o'clock we proceeded on our
journey. The night was fine, and excepting the
occasional strange cries of the pullaboys, and the
noise of their paddles entering the water, all was

SUPERSTITIONS AND CEREMONIES. 323

silence around us. The sides of the river which
we passed were always low and swampy : no
banks or towns were to be seen.

About five o'clock I was aroused from a plea-
sant sleep by the firing of guns. The least noise
or movement generally disturbed me ; and as I
did not feel quite confident of Boy's sincerity, I
inquired the cause of the firing at such an un-
usual hour, and was told by the black mate, a
good-hearted fellow, it was firing for Ju-ju. It
seems that the Brass traders never pass certain
places without firing, and repeating certain
words as charms. When they take rum, they
pour a little on the deck or in the river for the
Ju-ju, and they would consider their lives very
insecure if this ceremony was not observed.
Whether the strange scene about me, or the
effluvia proceeding from so many negroes in a
state of nudity perspiring from exertion, or from
being so suddenly aroused, prevented my falling
asleep again, I know not, but I could no longer
close my eyes. At one time we must have
passed very near the sea, as I could hear dis-
tinctly the noise of the surf on the beach. We
crossed a great many branches of rivers, all of
fresh water, intersecting larger ones, and fall-

Y 2

324 KING jacket's daughters.

ing into the sea from their parent stream, the

Niger.

In the course of the morning, we saw, at a
short distance from us, two small canoes with
females paddling them. They came alongside,
and I found, on inquiry, that these damsels were
the daughters of King Jacket, of Brass. King
Boy poured out two glasses of rum for each,
which these princesses drank off without moving
a muscle of their black faces ! and with the same
ease that one of our dairymaids would have
drunk a basin of new milk. The youngest lady
appeared to be about thirteen, and the elder
fourteen years old, and both were fine, good-
looking girls. Their skins were of a lighter
colour than any I had seen ; but their sense of
modesty did not appear to be shocked in the least
by their naked condition, for they knelt down in
the bottom of their canoes without the least con-
cern at our presence, although after drinking the
rum they glanced very earnestly at us as if we
were somebody unexpected.

At eleven o'clock, being near to Brass, pre-
parations were made to fire the two swivels
given by Mr. Lander, for the little Ju-ju, as

PREPARATIONS FOR ARRIVAL AT BRASS. 325

King Boy called it. Accordingly the swivels
were fired ; and on my inquiring where the
Ju-ju was, I was shown a fine majestic tree in
which, I was gravely told, he resided.

We were now about two hours' journey from
Brass Town. When at a short distance from a
creek leading direct to the town, the canoe was
stopped, and every one in her began to make
preparations for their arrival. King Boy, with
his boys, jumped overboard for a swim, and was
speedily followed by three of his wives. While
they were bathing, the fourth wife was em-
ployed in selecting the clothes from the royal
wardrobe.

As this was the first time King Boy had been
at Brass since leaving Mr. Lander, it was the first
opportunity he had of showing off his splendid
presents. Great fuss was made to do justice to
himself: he said to me, " King Boy leave Brass
all same one little boy, no guns, no money ; but
now me big man, big man too much, and plenty
ting." The once splendid dress, sent out as a
present from Mr. William Laird, of Liverpool,
was now taken out of a large calabash, not a
little the worse for being kept there. It con-

326 KING boy's dress.

sisted of a scarlet coat, a Highland kilt and
goat-skin purse, plaid stockings and slippers, a
tartan plaid sash, and lancer's cap.

After he had been dried by his attendants, he
proceeded to the more important duties of dress-
ing himself ; and as his style of dressing was lu-
dicrous in the extreme, I must attempt a descrip-
tion of it. A blue handkerchief was first tied
round the loins, covering the right leg : over this
was placed a striped shirt, then a pair of Turkish
trousers, and then the plaid stockings and slip-
pers (the Turkish trousers completely concealing
them). He next put on his scarlet coat, the waist-
band of the trousers covering the lower part of it ;
over the trousers the goat-skin, while the plaid
scarf was thrown over the left shoulder. On his
head he placed a red worsted cap, on which the
lancer's cap was fixed. Through a Serjeant's
sash, and a goat-skin round his middle, he thrust
an old cutlass and one pistol. And this grotesque
dress, contrasted with his sable features, had the
effect of making him appear, to the eye of a Eu-
ropean, the most ridiculous of objects — a curious
compound of vanity and absurdity.

While this was going forward, the mate kept
up a constant fire with the swivels, and we ap-

NATIVE PRIEST. — KING'S MOTHER. 327

proached Brass Town, which is situate on a mo-
rass, with scarcely one yard elevation above the
bed of the river, while the natives assembled to
witness the grand sight presented by our arrival.

King Boy now began to consider himself a
king indeed, and applying a speaking-trumpet
about a yard and a half long to his lips, as he
stood in a conspicuous part of the canoe, bawled
out with stentorian lungs, " Devil-ship (mean-
ing the steamers) no will ! King Boy no will !
Devil-ship no will ! King Boy no will ! King
Boy all same King Obie ! King Boy big, all same
King Obie ! Palaver set — palaver set !" with
a great deal more about himself, at which I was
highly amused.

The first place we stopped at was a few
hundred yards below King Boy's residence, at
the Ju-ju man's, or priest's, hut. This person
wore a small piece of white calico round his
loins. He waded up to his knees in mud,
and received the presents sent him from Mr.
Lander. I do not know whether all were given
him or not, but Boy gravely delivered over to
him a red coat, a bottle of rum, and a jug made
after the figure of a Greenwich pensioner. — On
the bank, near the canoe, sat a shrivelled old

328 KING boy's palace.

woman, the very picture of misery, with her
breasts dried and drooping in a most disgusting
manner. But this old hag drank six and a half
glasses of rum that were given to her undiluted !
and as she swallowed each one, began to caper
and dance in the fandango style, throwing her-
self into the most indecent postures and contor-
tions possible. I felt curious to know who she
was, and I found that she was King Boy's mo-
ther. We left the place in a few minutes, and
proceeded to the residence of King Boy, where
we landed, and entered a house open at its sides
and roofed with dry grass and bamboo {Arundo
bmnbos).

This building we found was used by King Boy's
boys and slaves. Opposite to this, and on the
bank of the river, were his houses, three in num-
ber. The centre one was the apartment in which
King Boy slept, and was elevated above the
others about three feet : one dark passage com-
municated from one end to the other. They
were built of bamboo and plastered with mud,
being one story high. Such was the palace of
King Boy ! The interior was frightful to behold :
it was unpaved, and the floor of nmd quite wet
from the encroachments of the river, which is

DINNER WITH KING BOY. 329

sometimes ankle-deep in the first house of the
three ; added to which, it was perforated with
numerous rat-holes. At one end of the apart-
ment, near the river, was an elevated mud plat-
form in the shape of a triangle, just as damp as
the floor. As stools or chairs formed no part of
the furniture of this palace in the swamp, we
procured as substitutes a quantity of mats to lie
down on.

As soon as the numerous articles belonging to
King Boy were landed from the canoe, he invited
us to go with him and partake of some goat's
flesh ; and we therefore accompanied him through
several narrow, filthy streets, to the house oc-
cupied by his favourite wife, where, for the sake
of security, he invariably has his meals. After
some little delay we were accommodated with a
knife, when some boiled goat's flesh with the
hair upon it, and highly seasoned with Guinea
pepper, was placed before us. The accompani-
ment of the hair I did not much mind, but the
pepper I could not endure. When King Boy
saw I could not eat it, hungry as I felt, he very
considerately ordered some more to be cooked
without pepper, and to be better cleaned. But
I was again doomed to disappointment ; for my

330 UNCOMFORTABLE LODGINGS.

head ached with such violence, that I could not
eat or move a muscle of my face. I was very
apprehensive of being laid up on the spot with
fever; and certainly, neither before nor since,
have I ever experienced such an acute, dreadful
pain : tic douloureux was nothing in compari-
son to it.

My chief resource was smoking ; and in the
evening Captain Mitchell and I went to King
Boy's houses on the bank of the river, to pass
the night. Having spread my cloak, and with
a sword and pistol by my side in case of treach-
ery, I laid myself down. A small, hollow,
wooden dish had been brought to us, filled with
palm-oil, and a piece of the bark of a tree was
placed in it for a wick. Having requested this
primitive lamp to be taken away, it was no
sooner done and we were left in darkness,
than a noise commenced as if people were at-
tempting to get in through the roof of the house.
I instantly rose and called out, when the noise
ceased, but soon recommenced ; and, hearing the
squeaking of rats, we concluded that they had
created the disturbance. They were large water-
rats, whose nests were in the roof of the house.

OBSERVATIONS ON BRASS TOWN. 331

and the floor was quite undermined by them.
From the incessant noise they made, their num-
ber must have been immense.

In the course of the afternoon, one of the
pullaboys had stolen a pocket-handkerchief from
me, and I mentioned the circumstance to Bella,
the king's eldest wife, through an interpreter.
She seemed to express much concern about it,
and examined them all before her, and held a
long palaver, the substance of which was, that I
had lost a handkerchief, and that she insisted on
its being delivered up on pain of her displeasure.
After being out a few minutes, I returned, and
found my handkerchief lying upon my cloak,
evidently placed there by the guilty party.

Brass Town, I have before observed, is situ-
ated in a morass ; the streets are very narrow,
and abominably filthy ; — neither before nor since
have I ever met with a more disgusting place.
The tide comes up to the town, and at low water
the filth of the natives is indescribable. I walked
a short distance into the bush ; the soil was allu-
vial. The natives subsist chiefly on fish, plan-
tain (miisa sapientum), and bananas (musa para-
disalid), which are brought from the little Eboe

332 FUNERAL CEREMONIES.

country, very few of these ever growing at Brass.
Tigers and leopards are said occasionally to come
into the town and carry off childreH.

Among the sights of the place, were two na-
tives with their faces whitened, and two white
feathers stuck at each side of their heads. These
fellows go about dancing in a most singular man-
ner, and imitating at the same time the roaring
of wild beasts. I was told these men were leo-
pard-hunters, and were painted white, with the
feathers for horns, to represent the devil : for, as
we believe Satan to be black, the Africans, on
the contrary, represent him as being white.

While we were here, I had an opportunity of
witnessing a native funeral. An elderly man had
died a few days befere, and was laid out on the
floor of his hut. He had left four wives, who
were crying and making a great noise over the
corpse, as usual on these occasions, and appa-
rently in great distress. The corpse was enve-
loped in upwards of one hundred fathoms of
calico — two hundred yards ! It had been rolled
round the body very tightly, from the neck to
the toes ; the head was uncovered, and the whole
corpse presented the appearance of a black man's
head stuck upright in a bale of cotton. At the

FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 333

head of the corpse was a bottle of rumj a cala-
bash of palm-wine, two live fowls, and some ba-
nanas,— all which were to be interred with it,
to keep it from starving in another world ! On
one side of the hut, which was not capable of
containing more than a dozen people, was a
grave, about two feet deep and four wide, with
water at the bottom of it : being so near the
bank of the river, it was impossible to dig deeper
on account of the appearance of water. Several
singing-men and women were outside of the hut,
following their avocation, beating a broken piece
of canoe with sticks, and making the most stun-
ning noises ; on the other were some traders,
just arrived from Bonny to buy palm-oil, and who
were serving out rum with an unsparing hand ;
while at the back part of the house people were
continually firing muskets, and two old honey-
combed four-pounders, in a barracoon or slave-
house, much to my terror lest they should burst.
I understood these ceremonies would be con-
tinued several days ; and on the last day one
of his four wives, would be thrown into the
river as a sacrifice, instead of being buried
alive with the corpse, as is the custom at
Calebar.

334 NEIGHBOURING CHIEFS.

The day after our arrival. King Boy was en-
deavouring by every method in his power to
obtain more presents from us. As we had had
quite enough of Brass Town and its inhabitants,
we felt anxious to depart ; but not having a
canoe or boat of our own, we were obliged to
depend on the generosity of King Boy to sup-
ply us when he thought proper ; and, partly by
menaces and entreaties, we obtained the promise
of a canoe. But it is not unlikely that this pro-
mise was partly hastened by a threat, that unless
he let us have a canoe, I would apply to King
Jacket, of whom Boy was very much afraid.
Jacket possesses the most absolute authority,
and occupies one bank of the river ; the opposite
being occupied by King Fourday and his peo-
ple, as well as by Kings Boy and Gun, sons of
King Fourday. Gun, the little military king,
as the Messrs. Lander have styled him in their
work, is a pleasant, good-humoured little man,
and perhaps the most honest in the town of
Brass. King Fourday is a very old man, a-nd
very much addicted to rum. When this sable
potentate paid us a visit on board the Alburkah,
three weeks before, he drank so much that we
were obliged to lift him into his canoe.

ANECDOTE. 335

Louis, the pilot who accompanied us in Boy's
canoe, is a shrewd intelligent negro, and, from
his intercourse with Spanish vessels, speaks the
Spanish language remarkably well. In the course
of the day, while we were at Brass,* he came
to me and requested me to go and look at his
house, which to gratify him I did. He produced
some excellent tombo, or palm-wine ; and after-
wards, pointing to a shrub, and a jar with wa-
ter, and a small piece of yam in it, said it was
his Ju-ju.

The following anecdote will serve to illus-
trate the absolute power possessed by these
African kings : — King Gun had accidentally re-
ceived a wound in the arm from one of two
boys who w^ere playing with cutlasses. This
boy threw his cutlass at the other : Gun hap-
pened to be passing the corner of the street at
the same time, and received the point of the
cutlass in his arm. The boy was immediately

* This man, Louis, was afterwards tied to a piece of
wood and thrown into the river to the sharks, for his inti-
macy with one of King Fourday's wives. The method
of punishment for crimes of this nature consists in the par-
ties being drowned, or obliged to take poison. In this in-
stance, the latter was preferred by the unfortunate woman,
while the pilot chose the former mode of death.

2S6 RETURN ON BOARD THE COLUMBINE.

seized, and begged and entreated mercy to no
purpose. A council was held, and he was con-
demned to die : his hands were tied behind him,
and his throat being deliberately cut, he was
left to bleed to death !

Captain Mitchell and I having seen quite suf-
ficient of Brass, were very glad to embark in
Boy's canoe at night, and leave the place.
On the next morning we safely reached the
Columbine.

ATTACKED WITH FEVER. 337

CHAPTER II.

Attacked ivith Fever. — Further Mortality in the Columbine, —
Resort of the Slavers. — Palm-oil Trade, and Advice to
Traders. — Death of Captain Mitchell. — Arrival of an
American Expedition. — Unfortunate Death of the Super-
cargo, and Mortality on board the Vessels. — Rescue of a
Native Female from Death. — A Spanish Slaver — Gene-
rosity of her Captain. — His Majesty's Shipt Curlew. —
Arrival of a Canoe with Mr. Lander and Captain HilU
— Intelligence of the Steamers. — Mr. Lander very ill. —
Preparations for leaving the Columbine to join the Vessels.

About a week after my return from Brass, I
was seized with a fever ; and finding it very
strong upon me, I abstracted twenty ounces of
blood from my left arm, which gave me consider-
able relief. On the third day I suffered a little
more pain in my head, and felt very unwell : the
symptoms were the same as already described.
I gave orders for my head to be shaved and
blistered, and also the nape of my neck, and
commenced taking twelve grains of calomel in

VOL. I. z

338 MY ILLNESS.

three doses every six hours. In about seventy-
six hours after the attack, I became delirious,
and was informed that I continued so for nearly
a fortnight, attempting to throw myself over-
board ; a feat which I once had nearly perform-
ed, and was only prevented effecting my design
by the watch on deck. I continued in a very
precarious state for twenty-nine days, during
which time I took nothing but water, with a
little biscuit soaked in it.

In six weeks I became convalescent, and was
much indebted to Mr. Robb, the chief mate,
who paid me great attention during my illness.
To such a low state had I been reduced, that it
was nearly three months before I could walk ;
but it pleased the Almighty to preserve me, and
after this severe fit of sickness, during which I had
been several times at death's door, when I re-
covered, I enjoyed better health than I ever en-
joyed in England. I was troubled with attacks of
intermittent fever ; and before I reached England,
upwards of two years afterwards, I had had more
than one hundred attacks of it : but this was no-
thing compared with jungle fever. As I was
recovering, one of the men of the Columbine was
taken ill ; and although I was obliged to be sup-

FURTHER MORTALITY. 339

ported from being so weak, I bled him, and be-
fore the operation was finished I fainted three
times. After the decease of James Fanby, who
died in January, this was the first death on board
the brig, and it occasioned great despondency
throughout the crew.

In a month after the decease of Fanby, the
sail-maker, Mr. Jeffrey, died. He was an old
pensioner, had been at the battles of Trafalgar
and Copenhagen, and served under Lord Nelson.
He was fifty-eight years of age, and had often
expressed a wish to live until sixty.

In the beginning of January, we had long been
anxiously expecting the steamers down the river,
but could learn no intelligence respecting them-
They had now been absent three months, and
our situation was every day becoming more pain-
ful, being exposed day after day to the same
degree of monotony from morning till night.
Our provisions were also getting short; the
water was exceedingly bad, and quite brackish.

On the west side of the river, near where we
lay, is a barracoon or slave-house, where we
found several dozen human skulls lining the bank.
I soon discovered that these were the remains of
slaves who had died here, this being the place

z 2

340 RESORT OF THE SLAVERS.

from which the Spanish vessels take in their car-
goes of human traffic. Barracoon Point forms a
kind of bay, and the tall trees lining the bank
effectually conceal any vessel from the view of a
man-of-war off this river ; and unless the boats en-
ter it and go up to the point, the chances are that
the slave-dealers are never seen. There is also
a narrow creek above this which is highly favour-
able for concealment. I have been informed that
two boats from an English man-of-war came into
the river and landed at Cassa, or Pilot Town, on
the east side, without any suspicion of a slaver
being concealed in the above creek : they shortly
went away again, and on the following day the
slaver took her slaves on board and made her
escape. Opposite the house, within a few yards
of it, a well has been sunk, about three feet deep,
the water of which produces diarrhoea and dysen-
tery with slight attacks of fever. I recommended
all the water to be boiled before use ; and after
that was done, we enjoyed better health.

About this time I received a message from
King Jacket, of Brass, stating that our being an-
chored near the mouth of the river prevented
slave-vessels from entering, at which he was not
pleased. But the natives were very anxious to

PALM-OIL TRADE. 341

make trade with us, as they termed it ; and King
Boy, who came on board occasionally, was, as
usual, always begging for everything he saw. He
told us frequently, in an exulting manner, that he
could supply a ship with fifty puncheons of oil in
a month, or one moon. It will be recollected the
Susan filled in two months, or nearly so, when
she lost her men ; but oil is now very plentiful, as
great quantities of it are brought from the Eboe
country by the Brass traders to Brass Town,
where it is purchased, as well as slaves, by the
Bonny traders. The oil is obtained in the Eboe
country for four or five pounds per ton. The
best goods for this trade are muskets, powder,
red beads, white baft, common scarlet cloth, blue
beads. Bandanas, romals, coarse stuff hats, pipes,
tobacco in leaf, and looking-glasses. A puncheon
of oil is termed so many bars, varying according
to the state of the market : a gun is six bars ;
a head of tobacco, two bars ; and so on in pro-
portion. Cowries are taken at Eboe, and all up
the country. The Brass traders, like most other
black traders, are not to be trusted ; they re-
quire to be closely watched, and the commander
of a vessel should not allow them to gain the least
ascendency over him. Having once obtained

342 SUPPLY OF PROVISIONS.

a great many goods, they sell the oil which is his
to the Bonny traders at Brass, receiving their
goods in return. It is well known that Bonny a few
years back could scarcely fill one vessel with oil ;
but at present there are from seven to nine annu-
ally in the river ; while the Nun, from its proxi-
mity to the Eboe country, is likely to produce
larger quantities of oil. King Gun, King Jac-
ket, and one or two others at Brass, are the best
and most honest traders. King Boy ought not
to be trusted too far, for I believe him to be
a wicked, designing, and treacherous villain.

February came, and we had no accounts of the
steamers : our provisions had become very short,
when the William Rathbone was passing the
bar on her way to Bonny. Our long-boat being
out at the time, we boarded her, and Captain
Moore very kindly supplied us with a few ac-
ceptable articles.

About the 5th of March, Captain Mitchell,
who incautiously exposed himself to a violent
tornado and afterwards neglected putting on
dry clothes, was taken violently ill. During the
last month I had caused a house to be built on
Columbine Island, at the mouth of the river,
open on all sides to the sea-breeze, for two or

CAPT. MITCHELL'S FATAL SICKNESS. 343

three invalids, where the steward and a boy of
the brig had speedily recovered. When Captain
Mitchell was taken ill, he felt a great wish to be
landed there ; and a temporary house was built of
bamboo, and covered over with mats, and he was
conveyed ashore. I remained with him three
days and nights, during which time it was an
utter impossibility for me to obtain any rest
from the attacks of the musquitoes. Three
nights successively I walked the beach, the moon
being nearly at the full : although I was little
disposed to do so, I could not help admiring
the delightful calmness around. I treated Cap-
tain Mitchell in the usual way, but the calomel
had no effect. About the fifth day of being
ashore, he felt anxious to be conveyed on board
again, and was at times quite insane. When I
found that the calomel took no effect upon the
system, I felt assured he would not recover ; for
in several cases where it had failed, death had
most surely taken place in a very few days. As
we were conveying him on board, a brig and two
schooners were seen off the bar with American
colours flying : the Captain of the brig after-
wards came on board, and stated he was bound
here for palm-oil. Captain Mitchell lingered

344 AMERICAN EXPEDITION.

until the 10th, when he died, leaving our party
reduced to three white men, two boys, and four
negroes. He was interred on the west bank of
the river, and a small board was placed over his
grave by the mate, Mr. Robb. He was an excel-
lent seaman, and took charge of the ship at
Cape Coast Castle. Mr. Robb, the chief mate,
succeeded in command of the vessel until the
arrival of the Quorra.

The Americans had equally felt the excite-
ment and interest consequent on the discovery
of the termination of the Niger by Lander, and
saw that the vast tract of country which offered a
market for British goods might also be avail-
able to them. A few enterprising merchants
of Rhode Island had therefore fitted out the ves-
sels just arrived, consisting of a brig, named the
Agenoria, of about two hundred and thirty tons
burthen, and two schooners, with sixteen white
men and several Kroomen. Their object, it ap-
peared, was to trade for oil in the Eboe country
with the small schooners, and to load the brig
with it. The supercargo was a young man,
whose unfortunate and dreadful fate will be men-
tioned hereafter. I was informed, that the means
taken to induce men to join the American expedi-

AMERICAN EXPEDITION. 345

tion were highly discreditable to the parties who
engaged them. A great objection is felt by Ame-
rican seamen to the coast of Africa. I was assured
by both men and officers, that when they were
engaged, it was under the impression that the
vessels were for the whale-fishery, and that the
casks put up in shakes were for the purpose of
containing the blubber oil ; and it was not until
they were actually on the coast of Africa that
they knew their destination. The captain and
supercargo had a copy of Lander's chart on a
large scale, and were very sanguine of getting
up the Niger into the Eboe country with the
brig ; a thing utterly impossible ; for, in the whole
distance of the first twenty miles up, there is in
some parts only one fathom and a half water.
However, the captain felt convinced he could go
up the river, and proceeded up for the purpose
of examining it in his whale-boat. He had not
gone far, before he was satisfied that to take the
brig up was impossible.

The supercargo, who had been on some part of
the coast before, went to Brass Town to King
Jacket. The king promised him protection, and
returned to the ship along with him ; and having
obtained a great many goods from the Americans

346 FATE OF AN AMERICAN SUPERCARGO.

on credit. Jacket separated from him to return.
It was intended that the small schooner should
trade in the Eboe country, and she had gone up
to Brass to proceed from thence by the creeks.
The supercargo left the Nun in a canoe, with
some of King Jacket's and King Boy's pullaboys,
in order to join the schooner at Brass ; but when
he was near Fish Town, an accident happened
which not only terminated fatally, but completely
put a stop to the proceedings of the expedition.
The account given of this man's actions by the na-
tives is as follows : — The supercargo, who had a
trade-gun with him, landed to shoot a small bird ;
when being disappointed at getting near it, he
returned to the canoe and laid himself down.
The gun unfortunately had been so placed, that
one of the pullaboys accidentally treading on the
lock, caused it to go off, when it burst and killed
the supercargo and two negroes. The subse-
quent conduct of the natives in the canoe ren-
ders their account worthy of little credit ; for they
plundered the mutilated corpse of the watch and
other things, and conveyed the former to an
officer then on board the schooner at Brass
Town, who was waiting the arrival of the super-
cargo. In addition to this calamity, King Jacket

MORTALITY ON BOARD AMERICAN BRIG. 347

would not allow this officer to leave Brass in
order to communicate the melancholy intelli-
gence to his captain until he was intimidated by
threats, a week after the interment. It appears
to me more than probable that an attempt was
made to kill the supercargo, to prevent his going
into the Eboe country, and thereby taking away
a certain trade, and an old-established one, from
their town, and in the attempt the gun ex-
ploded,— a very common occurrence among the
negroes, as they charge the guns half full, in
order, as they observe, " to make gun speak too
much."

The captain of the American brig received
the intelligence of the supercargo's death when
performing the last ceremony over the corpse of
his carpenter ; and there being no medical assist-
ance on board, he lost nearly all his hands.
Fever had appeared among them, and in less
than six weeks his crew of sixteen was reduced
to five ! To add to the misfortunes of these
Americans, on one dark and stormy night, eight
or ten Kroomen ran away with the brig's boat,
with buckets and five boarding-pikes. A few
months afterwards I engaged some Kroomen at
Fernando Po, when I found that two of them

348 FAILURE OF THE AMERICAN EXPEDITION.

gave out that they had belonged to the brig, but
were badly used and badly fed, and therefore
would not stay in her. This, however, may or
may not be true ; I merely give it as told to me.
They sold the boat for some yams and provisions,
in a creek near to Bonny ; but it is fair to say,
that these men conducted themselves much to my
satisfaction during their long stay with me on the
Niger, with no other Englishman on board than
myself, and under circumstances the most dan-
gerous and trying. A short time after the fore-
going transaction, the captain of the Agenoria
(Captain Pearce) died, and the mate took charge
of the vessel and sailed for Rhode Island. Their
whole expedition was thus unfortunately ter-
minated : goods were given for nearly one hun-
dred puncheons of palm-oil, not one quarter of
which were paid.

Allusion has been already made to the custom
prevalent at Brass, Calebar, and most parts of
this coast, on the death of a king, chief, or any
great man, of sacrificing the lives of two or
three of his head wives. On going ashore a short
time ago, I heard some mournful cries in the
bush, and on inquiry from one of our Kroomen,
found that a woman was going to be flogged.

RESCUE OF A FEMALE FROM DEATH. 349

Anxious to know the cause for this flogging, I
approached the place from whence the cries pro-
ceeded, which was about twenty yards from the
water's edge, on the sand, and I there saw a
woman lying chained to a log of wood, with her
arms and legs pinioned, awaiting the period of
high-water, to be launched into the sea, there
to become the unhappy prey of voracious sharks.
On inquiring what the poor creature had done
to merit such a punishment, I found that she
was one of the wives of a chief who had died a
few days before, and the brother had selected
her to suffer for having wished his deceased bro-
ther's death ! I remonstrated with the brother
on the absurdity of the charge, and determined
to try to save the poor woman. I hastened to
Dido, the pilot, who also interceded ; but the
chief made the following reply : " White man's
fash, no be black man's fash ;" which being in-
terpreted, meant that they allowed us our cus-
toms, and we ought to allow them theirs. After
a palaver which lasted nearly three hours, owing
to the influence of Dido, who is a good man, the
chief agreed to liberate his sister-in-law, pro-
vided he might sell her to a slaver. We pro-
ceeded to the water's edge, which was now within

350 A SPANISH SLAVER.

a few feet of the poor creature. Her arms and
legs were disengaged ; but, owing to the severe
pressure which had been used, she could not walk
until she was actually under her own roof. In-
deed, so unexpected and unlooked-for had been
her rescue, that she could not believe we were
in earnest. She then pressed my hand with gra-
titude, and looked what her heart felt. In a
short time after this, she completely recovered
her spirits, and went on board a slaver, without
any emotion, for she had no one to live for or no
one to care for.

About this time a Spanish brig came into the
river, to take in a cargo of slaves. She had
been at Bonny a short time, and had been block-
aded by his Majesty's ship Charybdis, Lieutenant
Crawford. She got clear of the river quite light,
having purchased her slaves, and sent them back
from Bonny through the creeks to Brass Town.
On the arrival of the brig in the Nun, the cap-
tain proceeded to Brass, and in two days return-
ed "with three hundred and twenty-nine slaves.
They were shipped on board at four o'clock in
the morning from King Jacket's canoes. She
made sail at twelve, and was soon out of sight.
In justice to the captain of this slaver, I must

!

GENEROSITY OF HER CAPTAIN. 351

state that we met with more kindness and hu-
manity from him and his chief mate than we did
from the captain of the American brig. Being
very short of provisions, two or three applica-
tions were made to Captain Pearce, who refused
to let us have any, although he had abundance
on board. Seeing no other alternative, and the
mate and myself being left on board with only
two more white men, I went to the Spanish brig
and stated our want of provisions, and our wish
to purchase beef. The mate, in a very polite
manner, regretted we had not mentioned it be-
fore the captain had left for Brass ; but gave us
some wine and cordials immediately, and pro-
mised us bread. On the arrival of the captain
with the slaves, at four o'clock in the morning,
from Brass, an immediate attention was given to
our request. At six o'clock, just at daybreak,
the Spaniard's boat came alongside, with two
bags of white bread, two casks of salt beef, six
gallons of wine, and several other small articles,
all equally acceptable ; and when payment was
offered, the generous Spaniard, declined it, say-
ing he should feel handsomely remunerated by
my visiting two or three of his men who were
then sick on board, and by giving him a little

352 CURLEW BRIG-OF-WAR.

quinine^ which I immediately did. He had lost
thirty men, fifteen very recently, and knew full
well the value of sulphate of quinine, a most im-
portant medicine on the coast. Most of his
slaves were natives of Eboe and Nuffie. The
brig was about one hundred and ninety tons,
built very sharp and long, with two long six-
pounders. The captain of this brig informed
me he had made nine trips to Brass River alone,
and this was his tenth, and that he had never
been taken ! He had been pursued twice by his
Majesty's cruisers, and was once nearly taken by
the Black Joke, the terror of the Spanish cap-
tains and supercargoes, but each time had made
his escape by his vessel's superior sailing qualities.
He was very nearly taken this time ; for the
Curlew's boats came in five days after he sailed.

It was now nearly the middle of April, and we
had no accounts of the steamers. We were be-
coming heartily tired of our mode of life, having
been upwards of five months at our anchorage
without any intelligence of them ; and, as may
be supposed, time hung heavily on our hands.

About the 10th of April, the Curlew brig-of-
war. Commander Trotter, was off* the bar. This
officer came on board the Columbine and kindly

ARRIVAL OF MR. LANDER. 353

supplied us with provisions, taking our des-
patches with him to forward to England.

About the 19th of April, we espied a canoe ap-
proaching us, on her way down the river, with a
union jack flying; and in a short time she landed
on the opposite bank, abreast of the brig. Two
or three individuals jumped out of the canoe,
when, by the aid of the glass, I thought that I
could distinguish Mr. Lander. We despatched
a boat to the party ; and our joy may be easier
conceived than described, on finding we had not
been deceived, and that it really was Mr. Lan-
der. We had, however, mistaken him for a mu-
latto— and with good reason, for he was much
sunburnt. Anxious inquiries were quickly made
after our old companions ; but what was our dis-
may ! — on asking how was Dr. Briggs ? the reply
was, " Dead !" — how was Mr. Laird ? '^ Very ill,
and not expected to recover !" — how was Cap-
tain Miller ? " Dead !"— Mr. Jordan ? « Dead!"
In short, officers and men were almost all dead.
Such intelligence was enough to shake the
strongest nerves : only eight or nine were left
alive, and four of these have since died.

Mr. Lander informed me that most of the
officers and men had been dead three months,

VOL. I. 2 a

fi54> CAPT. HILL AND MR. LANDER.

and that Captain Hill was in the canoe very
ill, and that he himself was also ill of dysen-
tery. I learnt from him that Mr. Laird had
been very ill, and had lost the use of his limbs :
he had gone to Fundah for a change of scene,
having lost his friend and companion Dr. Briggs,
who had died of dysentery in February. Mr.
Lander also informed me that he did not think
Mr. Laird would return alive from Fundah.

Mr. Lander had come down the river for goods,
and, in the kindness of his heart, had risked his
own life to keep Capt. Hill company. After a few
days he felt himself sufficiently recovered to ven-
ture in the long-boat to Fernando Po, where he
was hospitably received and kindly treated by
Colonel Nicolls, the governor. After remaining
there a short time, and feeling himself much bet-
ter in health, he went on board the Curlew brig-
of-war. Commander Trotter, who paid him every
attention, and cruised about a short time to
establish his health. In a fortnight the Curlew
put into Prince's Island, where the Dove, American
schooner, was lying ; Captain Pearce of the Age-
noria was also on board of her, and as he intend-
ed going to the Nun on the following morning,
Mr. Lander took his leave of Captain Trotter,

PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE COLUMBINE. 355

and joined the Dove, when unfortunately, this
vessel being light, the violent motion produced
a relapse of dysentery. On her arrival in the
Nun, on the 4th of June, I had then become con-
valescent from an attack of dysentery which I had
contracted from my constant attendance upon Mr.
Lander before he went to Fernando Po. When
the schooner came to anchor, he sent for me on
board, and I was sorry to find him very ill —
much worse even than at his departure. He had
brought with him a Mr. Dean to join the Albur-
kah, one European seaman, and Mr. Brown, a
native of Cape Coast Castle, as clerk.

On Mr. Lander's arrival, preparations were
made to go up the river in the Columbine's long-
boat and a canoe, as soon as his health would
permit. He expressed himself to me in the
most grateful manner for the kindness and atten-
tion he met with from Colonel Nicolls, at Fer-
nando Po : the worthy colonel, he said, had ad-
ministered to his recovery in no small degree
by his kind attention and directions.

Captain Hill, who was very ill with a general
decay of the constitution, formed one more vic-
tim to the terrible effects of the climate. I ren-
dered him every assistance in my power ; but

2 A 2

356 DEATH OF CAPT. HILL.

from the first of his appearance, I entertained
no hope of his ultimate recovery. He was twice
tapped, and I was informed that he died on his
way to Fernando Po, three or four days after my
departure with Mr. Lander for the interior.

On the 7th of June, we were busy preparing
to depart up the river. On the following day
Mr. Lander's disorder not being quite so distress-
ing as for many days before, I had hopes that he
would soon recover.

DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. 357

CHAPTER III.

Departure with Mr. Lander for the Interior. — Sunday Island.
— Limits of the Tide. — Nature of the River. — The Town of
Eeckow. — A Benin Branch. — Pass several Towns. —
General Description of tlie River. — Land at a Village. —
Reception by the Chief. — Change in the Face of the
Country, — Hippopotami. — Unpleasant Intruders. — The
Bonny and principal Benin Branch. — Little Ehoe. — River
Scenery. — Curiosity cf the Natives. — Description of the
River. — Difficulty of stemming the Current in Canoes.

On the 8th of June, Mr. Lander finding him-
self much better, we determined on our departure ;
and I addressed a letter to the colonial surgeon
at Fernando Po respecting Captain Hill. At
9. 30 A. M. we embarked in the Columbine's long-
boat, and the canoe in which Mr. Lander came
down the river, making a party of twenty-three
in number ; — two white men, Mr. Lander and
myself, and six Kroomen, being in the long-boat ;
and Mr. Brown and the remainder in the canoe.
The morning was delightfully fine, but very hot-
We left the Columbine under a salute of seven

358 EBOE POINT.

guns, which we returned from our two swivels,
one being mounted in the bows, the other aft.
We had a delightful breeze up the Nun ; but
finding one or two sails had been left behind, the
canoe was despatched back to the brig for them.
At noon we were abreast of Eboe point. An aged
fisherman lives here in the midst of jungle on a
small elevated bank. From him I purchased
some dried fish, giving him in exchange some
tobacco. The river at this part is very narrow ;
on each side and in every direction are numerous
islands, upon which the pernicious mangrove-
tree (khiz, Lera Mangle) and the lofty palm {cocos
butyracea) flourish in luxuriance. At 8. 30 p. m.
we made fast to a mangrove-tree for want of an
anchor.

On the following morning at 2 a. m. we again
got under weigh, after passing a most restless time
from the dreadful annoyance of musquitoes and
the excessive heat. It being ebb tide, we found
ourselves drifted to some distance from whence
we started, by the rapidity of the current.

At 7 A. M. we were in sight of the first is-
land, named Sunday Island. This island is
situated in the centre of the river ; it is thickly
wooded, and appears to be at the extreme point

NATURE OF THE RIVER. 359

to which the tide reaches, distant from the Nun
sixty-four miles. At the farthest extremity are
sandbanks, the first we have seen ; and it was the
first place at which we could disembark after
leaving the Nun, the country being nothing else
but swamps. Mr. Lander appeared still to be
very ill.

About an hour after noon the river began to
widen, and we observed a gradual improvement
in the general appearance of the country :
sandbanks were now to be seen. In the course
of the afternoon we had the wind south-west,
with very heavy rain ; and to us it was very
cold, quite as cold, indeed, as a December
morning in England. From the imperfect state
of the roof of the house which had been built
over the after part of the boat, I was compelled
to put over it my blanket-cloak, counterpane, &c.
to keep out the rain. The depth of the water
close to the bank is seven fathoms : the grass
on the banks of the river is upwards of twelve
feet high. At 5 p. m. we had heavy rain. The
country appeared a little less wooded than lower
down. The rain continued at intervals until 10
p. M. At 7. 30 p. M. we stopped, and made fast
to the jungle. This kind of anchorage is very

360 TOWNS BY THE RIVER-SIDE.

objectionable : independently of the risk of sleep-
ing near such an unhealthy place, we were
dreadfully annoyed by musquitoes. Owing to
the heavy rains, everything under us was quite
wet. Mr. Lander was still very ill, and could
only take a little boiled rice.

At 12. 30 A. M. on Monday, June 10th, we
proceeded by the light of the moon. About
one o'clock we passed a small town, the first we
have met wdth. This part of the river is very
tortuous. At 6. 30 a. m. we came to another
small town on the right bank ; and Lilly, a boy
belonging to King Boy of Brass Town, was
sent on shore to procure some mats to cover the
house with. Several natives were assembled on
the banks. Opposite this place is a creek, which
leads to Brass ; and the Brass palm-oil traders
pass through this creek on their way to and from
the Eboe country. It was here, for the first time,
that I observed an alligator asleep on the water.

About eleven o'clock we came abreast of a small
town, named Eeckow, containing about eighty
huts. At this town I landed, and was conducted
by the chief to the Ju-ju, or palaver-house, where
disputes are generally settled. He invited me
to take some tomboh, or palm-wine, extracted

REFLECTIONS. 361

from the palm-tree by puncturing. A large
calabash, containing about six gallons, was
brought, and its contents were served out to all
present with great generosity. The huts are
regularly built of a yellow clay, by the side of
the river, and have a pretty appearance. I pre-
sented the chief a looking-glass, and he gave us
in return two fowls. Rain coming on, I was
glad to return to the boat, and we continued on
our journey.

At about one o'clock, I was told by Mr. Lander
that we were within a short distance of the
Niger. A pleasant breeze now favoured us,
and, gratified by our progress, we cheered our
companions in the canoe, and continued un-
der sail at about two knots per hour. It was
not possible, however, to repress the thoughts of
our actual position. We were then in a small
boat, open to the attacks of the natives, and
nearly four hundred miles from the steamers, in
which many of our companions had fallen sacri-
fices to the climate. Such reflections were not
very encouraging ; but our trust was in the Giver
of all good for his divine protection.

At 7 p. M. we came to a town named Hooproo-
mah. At this part, where the Benin branches

S62 FOOD OF THE NATIVES.

off, the river is about half a mile wide, and
sandbanks and huts are to be seen at a distance.
At Hooproomah several canoes came off to us,
bringing palm-wine : in one of them were three
powerful-looking natives, wearing a piece of
printed cotton round their loins. One of them
impertinently asked why we did not go on shore ;
and our interpreter was desired to tell them, that
if they did not go away, we should fire into them.
The swivels were immediately pointed at them,
and they paddled away in great haste, somewhat
alarmed.

On the 11th of June, at 12. 25 a.m. we again
started on our way up the river ; but had some
difficulty in inducing the Kroomen to work their
paddles. A rainy and a dull foggy morning fol-
lowed. We passed an inclosed place about
three hundred yards wide in the river, for catch-
ing fish, nearly similar to those made on the
coast of England for taking herrings. This
morning we purchased a very large bunch of
bananas (7nusa sapientum), which, with plantains
(niusa paradisiaca), constitute the principal food
of the natives. Observed a great number of ca-
noes at a distance. The river at this part is
about twelve hundred yards wide, and presents

KING HOOQUINAH. 363

a delightful appearance. On each side the
banks are high, and the flourishing palm-tree is
to be seen in great numbers.

At nine in the morning we came to anchor off
a town named Oweecoodagra, the place where the
steamers first obtained a supply of wood. Mr.
Lander requested me to go on shore with a pre-
sent of scarlet cloth, a looking-glass, and a bottle
of rum, and to make arrangements with the king
to have a supply of wood ready cut by the time
the steamers came down. The king is named
Hooquinah : he is an elderly man, with cata-
ract in the left eye, and slight opacity of the
right. The town consists of about forty huts,
many much injured by the heavy rains. On
landing, my interpreter conducted me to the pa-
laver-house, where a low wooden stool was placed
for me to sit on. A great number of the natives
had of course collected to see me, and were
squatted down round the house. In a few mi-
nutes the king made his appearance, dressed in
a striped Guernsey frock, a silk hankerchief, and
a piece of blue striped cotton, secured round his
loins. I laid before him the presents which I
had brought, and with which he seemed pleased,
giving us in return a goat, a fowl, and a few

364 TOWN OF HOOTWAH.

mats to cover the boat with. When the natives
found that we were in want of mats, several were
brought to the boat for sale ; but when the king
heard that the natives were selling the mats to
our people, he sent word to his subjects not to
take anything for them ; '' For," said he, " if the
white men, my friends, want mats, I will dash*
them, not sell them." The morning being very
hot, I rose to depart ; when the king invited me
to his house, and produced some excellent palm-
wine, while two of his wives were peeping at us
from a side apartment. At the back of the town
were a great number of fine plantain and banana
trees loaded to the ground with fruit.

A fresh breeze springing up, I took my leave
of the king ; and we departed immediately, and
soon left the town out of sight. Mr. Lander
still continued very unwell, the heavy rains
we have had the last two days having in-
creased his illness. At about half-past three in
the afternoon we passed a small town named
Hootwah, the natives of which hoisted a white
flag and invited us on shore. There were seve-
ral Brass canoes near this town, some having

* This is a common expression on the coast, and means
" making a present."

IMPROVED APPEARANCES. 365

puncheons in them belonging to the Bonny
traders, who obtain them at Bonny from the
captains of palm-oil ships. Several other canoes
were filled with jars, each holding about a gallon
or two. — Soon after we passed another town,
named Hooweecroodah : several large canoes
were lying off it, laden with palm-oil. Very
heavy showers of rain fell in the course of the
afternoon ; but the evening was fine, and we
stopped abreast of a town named Anyammah.

The improvement in the appearance of the
river and the country now became very evident.
The banks were covered with the cocoa-nut tree,
(cocos nuciferd), plantain, banana, and there was
also an abundance of palm-trees.

On the 12th of June, at a quarter past 3 a. m.
we left our halting-place, the canoe taking the
boat in tow. It was a dull rainy morning, and
the current was increasing against us. At about
half-past nine we came abreast of a town named
Ahkibberee.* The chief came alongside with a
present of a large bunch of bananas, a fowl, some
yams {dioscorea bulbifera), and plantains, and
took in return for them a few beads, a bottle of
rum, and two looking-glasses. His name was

* Mr. Lander was shot near this town.

366 HIPPOPOTAMI.

Osseeaber : he was desired to have wood ready
cut in a month's time. His town consists of
about fifty huts. — At ten the morning was fine,
but excessively hot. Passed a large sandbank on
our right, the reach of the river being nearly three
miles long. At S p. m. another town was passed,
named after the last from some of the natives
having settled there. In the afternoon we had
heavy showers of rain, and we passed another
town and village. The river at this part is about
three quarters of a mile wide. In the evening
we saw the heads of two hippopotami for the
first time, and at eight we stopped at a sandbank
for the night.

The following morning, at three, we proceed-
ed until eight o'clock, when we halted on a
sandbank, to repair the house over the boat.
Several boxes of goods were taken out of the
boats to make room, and several articles com-
pletely wet for the purpose of being dried. The
wet articles, as cottons, looking-glasses, and
clothes, were spread upon the sandbank ; and
muskets, pistols, cutlasses, &c. were strewed all
around. We had been on the sandbank about
half an hour, in the full heat of the sun ; some of
the people were employed washing, some cooking,

UNPLEASANT INTRUDERS. 367

others drying clothes, and the Kroomen were
repairing the roof of the house, — in fact, the
scene reminded me of a gipsy halt ; when on a
sudden several voices exclaimed " A war-canoe !
a war-canoe !" and on looking towards the next
town, named Bilbarrowkee, I observed a very
large canoe, the natives in it being all armed.
On approaching nearer, I ordered our men to
take their arms ; and they were in an instant
drawn up to receive our visitors. Mr. Lander
was unable to raise himself from his bed without
assistance. When within thirty yards of the
boat, taking Lilly the boy as interpreter, I ad-
vanced to meet them with a double-barrelled
fowling-piece in my hand, and armed with pis-
tols. Lilly hailed them, asked what they want-
ed, and desired them to go away. They re-
plied, that they wished to see the white men. I
desired him to tell them to go back and come in
a small canoe unarmed, and we would speak to
them. During this time some of our men were
placing the goods, &c. back into the boat ; while
about fourteen or fifteen, doubtful how matters
would turn out, were armed and prepared to
defend us had an attack been made. After look-
ing very cautiously around them, and seeing us

368 CREEK LEADING TO BONInY.

SO well and instantly prepared, the canoe depart-
ed to the town, and we shortly after resumed
our progress. In passing Bilbarrowkee, we saw
merely a few natives, although we fully expected
every moment to be attacked.

Shortly after a canoe came off to us from Hy-
poteammah, a town situate on the left bank of
the river. The king's name is Burneemeah, and
he is brother to King Jacket of Brass. He sent
us a goat, and we obtained twelve mats at two
strings of blue cut beads each. Our house was
now in a more habitable condition, and the mus-
kets were neatly arranged on each side of Mr.
Lander and myself

At 3 p, M. we passed a creek leading to Bonny :
on each side of it is a neat town, named Barram-
bee. At 8 p. m. we stopped, having had rain with
heavy thunder and vivid lightning during the
evening.

At 3 A.M. on the 14th of June, we continued
on our journey in the wrong channel, and were
drifted considerably by the strength of the
current. At 10 a. m. we passed a town named
Subercrebbee. When Mr. Lander passed this
town a few weeks ago in a canoe with Captain
Hill, the natives ran towards the canoe, and he

BENIN BRANCH. 369

was obliged to order it to be pushed off from
the land. The natives were armed with muskets
and spears.

We passed a few fishing canoes ; on seeing us,
the natives paddled on with great rapidity. Nearly
opposite Subercrebbee is another branch leading
to Benin, with a fine opening at its commence-
ment. At this place the current was very strong,
running at the rate of nearly four knots per hour.
We were two hours in' passing the entrance of
this river, using sails and oars. We landed on a
sandbank abreast of a town named Oppocoomah
to breakfast, where the king's brother brought a
goat to us as a dash. The natives of this tov/n
are well provided with muskets, spears, and
knives, worn on the left side. One of the men
brought an elephant's tooth for sale, weighing
about forty pounds ; but he wanted an exorbitant
price for it, and it was not purchased. At four
o'clock we proceeded forward, and on the right
bank passed a town named Momotymiahmah,
and several other small villages. This evening
there was very heavy thunder and lightning, with
rain : the current being very strong, we were un-
able to fetch the shore without drifting consider-

VOL. I. 2 b

370 LITTLE EBOE.

ably. We made fast round some fishing stakes
in the centre of the stream.

At 1 A. M. on the following day we resumed our
progress, and at 6 a. m., from the effects of a
violent current, to our mortification, we found
ourselves below the place where we had passed
the preceding night. We landed to breakfast
on a sandbank, from which we saw several
canoes loaded with palm-oil. At 3 p. m. we
were abreast of Little Eboe, the natives of
which town attacked the steamers going up, in
consequence of which it was destroyed by them.
It is now partly rebuilt, several of the huts stand-
ing quite back in the wood. The spot from
where the greatest number of shots were fired
by the natives is at the lower end of the town,
and well protected by large trees. A great num-
ber of natives were assembled on the banks be-
fore the town. The town is situate on the right
bank of the river, and consists of about thirty
huts. — A little above this town is another, named
Ahquimbra, abreast of which the steamers were
supplied with wood. The king came alongside,
and dashed us two goats and some plantains ;
some beads and rum were given to him in return.
A tooth of a hippopotamus was purchased with

NEAT AND POPULOUS TOWNS. 371

a few beads. We lay to a short time near an
island, but, owing to the musquitoes, were com-
pelled to proceed.

On Sunday, June 16, the morning was fine,
with a light breeze. We passed a town on the
right bank which had a neat appearance, and
halted on a fine sandbank nearly fifteen miles
long. The current was very strong all day, and
we stopped at night on a sandbank.

The morning of the 17th was dull and rainy.
We halted on a sandbank opposite three towns,
the huts of which are built of a yellow kind of
clay, and have a very neat appearance : a great
many of them had verandahs over their doors.
A number of natives were assembled on the banks
looking at us. The name of the largest town is
Ingliammah. There are a greater number of
natives at these towns than any I have yet seen.
On our stopping, one of the chiefs dashed us
some plantains and fowls ; and we had a great
number of natives round us. My fowling-piece
was suspended from the roof of the house in the
boat, and the chief perceiving the lock different
from the muskets, being on percussion principle,
asked permission to examine it. Having placed
caps on the nipples, the chief and natives were

2b2

372 TOWN OF OHDONAH.

quite startled at the report they made. I then
charged it with powder ; and when the natives
heard the report, they set up a loud shout, say-
ing '' the percussion cap made gun speak too
much." At this place we encountered a very
strong current. Having passed several towns
on the right bank of the river, we halted, as
usual, on a sandbank for the night, which was
showery.

The next day we halted near a town named
Ohdonah, on a sandbank ; the name of whose
king was Egambia. After we had proceeded
several miles this morning, we discovered that
a mulatto boy had been left behind. The
canoe was despatched in search of him, and in
the mean time I loaded my fowling-piece, and
shot a few sand-larks. When the canoe returned,
we found the boy had been asleep on the bank,
and had not heard our morning gun, — a signal
we invariably adopted every morning to awake
the people who slept ashore.

We passed some high land on this day, the
banks being thirty feet high, the current strong.
The width of the river w^s about three quarters
of a mile ; and the weather was rainy and foggy
as we stopped near a town named Ohdoney,

THE RIVER SCENERY. 373

which the current made it difficult for us to
reach. A native hailed our interpreter, and told
him, that if we would send some rum, cloth, and
powder for Ju-ju, Ju-ju would make fair wind !
This, as may be supposed, we declined doing ;
and our interpreter pointing to our swivels, we
told him those were our Ju-jus. The fellow
did not like the allusion, and walked away. In
the evening we anchored, about seven, on a
sandbank.

During the night a very heavy dew fell, and
the morning of the 19th was foggy. I awoke
with a most excruciating pain in my limbs and
side, owing to lying in my wet clothes upon un-
even boxes. Jowdie was despatched for some
bamboo to make a kind of frame to support the
bed. Mr. Lander was much the same, but
stronger ; and Mr. Dean, who accompanied us
to take charge of the Alburkah, was now very ill.
The river in some places is from twelve to fif-
teen hundred yards wide, the banks on each side
being covered with verdure and the richest foli-
age. The reaches of the river are ten or twelve
miles long, while here and there are to be seen
towns, with their brown-topped huts ; some of
the natives were dressed in cottons and silks of

374 CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES.

English manufacture, and many were in a state
of nudity. About eight in the evening we an-
chored alongside a sandbank.

A great deal of rain fell during the night.
About five o'clock, on the 20th of June, we again
proceeded. Mr. Lander improving, and myself
much better. About nine o'clock we were abreast
of a large branch of the river, said to run to
Benin. I believe this is the largest Benin branch
which runs out of the Quorra. On the opposite
side of the river we observed a multitude of
black countenances, with white teeth, anxi-
ously watching our progress, but apparently
afraid of being seen. Our interpreter hailed
them to bring off some mats, fowls, eggs, and
yams, at the same time telling them not to be
afraid. In a few minutes an amazing number of
canoes were alongside of us, some having Indian
corn (which is much cultivated here) — some with
plantains, yams, fowls, eggs, goats, and mats, and
red pepper. The river presented the appear-
ance of a fair, and such a noise and confusion of
tongues I never before heard. I counted up-
wards of seventy- eight canoes ; several were very
small, containing one and two men. The people
sit astride their canoes, with their legs hanging

SABLE BEAUTIES. 375

in the water ; a dangerous practice, from the risk
of their being bitten by the alligators. The
town extends into the bush a considerable dis-
tance along the banks of the river ; it is named
Owhyha, and appeared to contain about two
thousand inhabitants. I observed a great num-
ber of interesting females paddling their canoes
with great dexterity. The appearance of several
of these sable beauties was particularly modest ;
more so, indeed, than any I have yet met with.
In one canoe was a very stout woman with um-
bilical stroma, (rupture) : her ancles were orna-
mented with immense rings of ivory, about five
inches broad. She had a male slave in the ca-
noe, a native of Kacundah, or Ibbodah, whom
she repeatedly desired us to purchase, and was
much disappointed when we gave her to under-
stand that we never purchased human creatures.
A gun, some powder, and a few yards of printed
cottons, was the price demanded for this poor
fellow.

Being much annoyed by the noise of so many
people, each striving against the other to get
alongside our boat, and frequently upsetting each
other's canoes, I resorted to an infallible method
of getting rid of them. I presented the muzzle

376 HIPPOPOTAMI.

of the aftermost swivel at them ; on seeing which
a general yell was the signal for departure — ca-
noes were overturned, and a great number of the
natives jumped overboard. One poor fellow,
who had dived on the first alarm, ventured his
head out of water, and seeing me still at the gun,
uttered a cry, and again dived, and arose a con-
siderable distance off. The natives paddled off
with such rapidity, that it resembled a regatta
of canoes. It was an amusing scene ; but the
plan effectually relieved us from further impor-
tunities, and in a few minutes the canoes were a
mile and a half off.

This morning we observed two hippopotami
coming down with the current. We fired canis-
ter shot at one, and it seemed to be wounded,
as in a few moments we observed two swimming
in-shore, and in the next minute we heard one
blowing or bellowing something like a cow, near
to the boat. We passed sandbanks ten or twelve
miles in length. This morning we observed
three canoes at a distance : when they saw us,
they turned back ; — we concluded they had come
from Eboe to reconnoitre. At 11 p.m. we came
to an anchor abreast of a sandbank. The wea-

BIRDS OF THE SWALLOW SPECIES. 377

ther fine, and a strong current : Mr. Dean sick,
and also four blacks.

At 5 A. M. on the 21st of June, we again
started, and found the current about three knots
per hour. The morning was very fine, and we
landed to breakfast on a sandbank, where we
saw an immense number of birds of the swallow
species, with a long beak. Their nests appeared
to be in excavations made in the sand. A num-
ber of hawks were hovering around, apparently
watching them. I placed my hand in one of the
holes, and found a nest containing six young birds,
partly fledged. As I was looking at them as
they lay on the sand, about a dozen hawks darted
down and carried them off. The sandbank re-
sembled a rabbit-warren, the holes being so nu-
merous. In the afternoon we saw four hippopo-
tami on an island : after looking some time at
us, they retreated very slowly into the water,
and we observed them shortly after swimming to
the bank of the river. The current being very
strong, and our men very much fatigued, we
were drifting down the river, when a canoe from
the town of Otiyha, with a few Eboe natives in
it, kindly assisted us : they supplied us with

378 DIFFICULTY OF PROCEEDING.

some Indian corn and a few cocoa-nuts, — a very
acceptable present in our estimation. In the
course of the day we had heavy rain, with thunder
and lightning. Continuing on after dark, we
passed three towns, one on the left bank, the
others on the right bank of the river ; the names
of the two latter were Etoaka and Adowah ; after
which we stopped for the night.

We again resumed our tedious journey at five
in the morning, which was then jfine, but soon
after we had heavy rain. At 8 a. m. we halted on
a sandbank, opposite a town named Amoorah,
from whence we could descry some lofty trees near
Eboe. On this sandbank we found thousands of
the same kind of birds that we saw the day before,
and several hundred eggs lay quite uncovered.

A curious circumstance occurred on this day,
which may serve to illustrate the difficulty of
ascending the river in a canoe. About 5 p. m.
yesterday we were drifted several miles by the
current, and crossed from one side of the river
to the other. Straw-Hat, one of our Kroomen,
was tracking the boat along the bank, when he
slipped into the water, and struck his foot against
something hard, and immediately dived to find
out what it was, and, to our surprise, brought

SEVERE HURRICANE. 379

up a basin which we had lost overboard before
daybreak in the morning, nearly thirteen hours
before.

Mr. Lander was much better of dysentery, but
complained of debility : Mr. Dean was also bet-
ter. The weather became fine about nine ;
but we had a severe hurricane, which lasted up-
wards of an hour. We were driven ashore by
it, and came in contact with a stump of a tree
concealed under water, which very nearly cap-
sized our boat.

The river at this part is about two thousand
yards wide. At 8 p. m. we halted for the night on
a sandbank. The men had exerted themselves
more than usual this afternoon, so as to have
reached Eboe by the night ; but owing to
the strength of the current we were obliged to
come to, distant from Eboe four miles.

This evening we passed a plantation, with very
lofty trees on the side near the water. The plan-
tation belongs, we are informed, to an opulent
trader, no less than an Eboe gentleman. Yams,
plantains, bananas, Indian corn, and pepper are
grown in abundance on it. The Eboe people
also rear bullocks of a small breed, goats and
fowls, which are bartered in exchange for powder

380 TEDIOUSNESS OF OUR JOURNEY.

and cottons, with the natives of Bonny, Brass,
Benin, and, I believe, Calebar. While we were at
anchor the natives of Eboe kept up an incessant
firing of muskets, which, our interpreter said, was
in consequence of its being some Ju-ju day.

Our journey thus far had been very tedious
and tiresome ; the weather had been very un-
healthy, constant rain with thick fogs ; and feeling
severely the confinement and exposure of a boat,
we wished ourselves on board the steamers. Our
black people became very indolent, and afraid of
being attacked. We had now been absent four-
teen days, but it was likely we should be as long
again before we could reach the steamers. Ow-
ing to the quantity of trees on the banks, and
the windings of the river, the winds carcely pene-
trates to its surface ; and if it did, its serpentine
form would render it fair one reach, and foul the
next. The little wind we have had has been
all round the compass; some days a refreshing
breeze springs up by eight o'clock, at other
times by eleven and twelve, but it soon dies
away. Mr. Lander was now much better, and
able to sit up : I was quite worn out with fati-
gue in waiting upon him night and day, as he
would allow no person to cook or do anything
for him but myself.

ARRIVE AT EBOE. 381

CHAPTER IV.

Arrive at Eboe. — Visit King Obie with presents. — Salutation
of the Natives. — Interview ivith Obie. — Reception of the
Visiters. — Obie visits Mr. Latider in his Canoe. — His ra-
pacious Demands. — Obtain Assistance. — Character of the
Eboes. — Departure. — Kirree Pirates. — Adamey. — Reports
of the Felatahs. — Intelligence of Mr. Laird. — Arrive off
Attah. — Messenger from the King. — The Kong Mountains
seen. — Bocqua. — Lander^ s Bird Rock. — Meeting with the
Steamers.

At 10 A. M. on Sunday, June 2l3rd, we stopped
abreast of a sandbank opposite to Eboe. As
soon as we had arrived within a short distance of
the town, we were met by a large canoe belong-
ing to King Obi«, containing twenty puUaboys
on each side ; which, with one steering at the bow,
and another at the stern, made a total of forty-
four men. They took us in tow, and soon placed
us abreast of the town. The natives of Eboe are
the most expert people with their paddles, and
in the general management of their canoes, that
I have yet met with ; boys not more than four

382 PRESENTS TO KING OBIE.

or five years of age are to be seen pulling with
the greatest dexterity.

Mr. Lander and myself prepared to go on shore
to visit King Obie, the same person who sold the
Messrs. Lander to King Boy for goods to the
amount of twenty puncheons of palm-oil. It com-
menced raining, and Mr. Lander therefore declin-
ed going, being also in my opinion too weak to
stir. I then prepared to go alone with the fol-
lowing presents : — An arm-chair, lined with scar-
let cloth, made by Hawthorne, the carpenter of
the Columbine, a very ingenious man ; a large
looking-glass, two jars of rum, a pair of Turkish
trousers of scarlet cloth and trimmed with dozens
of bell buttons, and one piece of printed cotton.
Taking with me four Kroomen, the presents were
placed in the king's canoe, and after giving the
king's slaves some rum, we departed for the shore.
These slaves were fine youths, about nineteen or
twenty years of age, with good flexible muscles,
and such was their exertion that the perspiration
was fairly flowing from them over the gunwale of
the canoe. They kept time with their paddles by
making a kind of hissing noise between their
tongue and teeth, sounding like " Tchid, tchid,
tchidda, tchidda."

SALUTATION OF THE NATIVES. 383

The river is about one mile wide at Eboe, and
we entered a creek about two miles long, at the
extreme end of which we landed. The left bank
has several steep landing-places, and between the
Niger and the town of Eboe is a very large
morass. A great number of natives were wash-
ing themselves with country soap, said to be
made from palm-oil and alkali, obtained by the
incineration of plants : it is of a darker colour
than English soap, and of the consistency of
soft soap. From the late heavy rains, the ground,
which is of a dark and light yellow clay, was very
slippery, and it was with difficulty we ascended
the brow of the hill up to the town, the bank
being upwards of thirty feet high. The distance
from the landing-place to the king's residence is
two miles. The morning was very sultry, and as
I passed on, I was met by several persons who,
my interpreter informed me, were the gentlemeji
of Eboe. It seems that they were proud to
*^ crack fingers with (Eboe) white man ;" a custom
they have obtained, perhaps, from our mode of
salutation. They press the fingers, and in with-
drawing them make a kind of cracking noise. I
was met by so many, and all anxious to have a
crack, that we were a considerable time before

384 KING OBIE'S residence.

we reached Obie's residence, where we found a
great number of men armed with guns and
spears.

I was now conducted through a square and
three court-yards, the doors of which, with the
pillars, were ornamented with rude figures of
men carved out of the wood. In the fourth and
furthest court-yard, was a platform about three
feet high, and covered with mats : at the back
of the platform was a kind of throne, elevated
about two feet, and covered with mats of a fancy
colour ; — the walls of the yard were coloured
yellow and red ; — the roof of the last court-yard
projected out about twelve feet, and was support-
ed by pillars of wood. In this inner yard, was
what appeared to me to be a steam-chest, used
by the king as a bath. The slaves and com-
mon people were ranged at the back part of the
yard ; to the right were some chiefs and respect-
able-looking people, and to the left was a room
occupied by Obie's head wife, a fine stout woman,
so fat, she could scarcely walk, with anklets of
ivory several pounds weight.

After waiting a short time, Obie entered from
a door on the right, and in a most cordial man-
ner shook my hand, and cracked fingers five or

KING OBIE. 385

six times. When we were seated, he embraced
me twice very affectionately according to the
custom of the country. King Obie * stands up-
wards of six feet high ; he is very muscular, with
an intelligent countenance and dignified deport-
ment, and a quick and long step. He wore a pair
of scarlet trousers that fitted tightly round the
legs; no shoes or sandals; round his ankles were
seventeen strings of coral, secured on the inside
with a large brass button ; he had a scarlet coat,
made by his own tailor, and cut like the coats of
the sixteenth century. On his head was a cap
made of red cloth, and trimmed with gold lace ;
over this, a splendid general's cap, with the king's
arms on a beautiful plate in front, given to him by
Mr. Lander. The chair which we had brought was
placed in the centre of the yard ; he examined it
very attentively, and then seating himself in it,
called for a looking-glass. He then proceeded to
examine himself in it, and burst out into a loud
laugh, thinking himself, no doubt, the happiest
of monarchs. He remained thus surveying and
laughing at himself alternately for some time, and
would have kept me longer had I not reminded

* The Eboe name for king. — Obesity is here considered
a mark of gentility.

VOL. I. 2 c

386 INTERVIEW WITH

him that his friend Mr. Lander was waiting,
and that we were anxious to return. He then
rose, took me by the hand, and having led me to
his throne, began a conversation with his people,
and required from me what he could do for us.
My interpreter was desired to say, that in conse-
quence of Mr. Lander being ill, we were very
anxious to reach the steamers as early as possi-
ble ; that our men were tired, and if he would
allow us four pullaboys, he would render us a
great service ; and the presents which Mr. Lan-
der had promised him should be sent back by
the boys when the steamers returned.

After two or three minutes' consideration, he
replied, " The boys no savy come back from that
far place where steamers live ;" to which I re-
plied, they would return in a month. He said he
would accompany me to the boat. He gave us
two goats, some fowls, and eight or nine mats. He
then invited me to take something to eat. Seeing
a great number of people in the yard looking on,
he ordered them all away, and in an instant not
one was to be seen.

Shortly afterwards, Obie's two sons, fine
youths, about eighteen and twenty years of
age, entered the court, bringing in some stewed

KING OBIE. 387

fowl and foofoo,* in clean wooden dishes,
as clean as a dairymaid's in old England. I
quite enjoyed it, although there was nearly a
pint of palm-oil in it, and I had to eat it
with my fingers. When I had finished, some
water was given me to wash ; and the young
princes commenced eating the remainder. The
eldest youth desired my interpreter to inquire
what white men did with all the ivory they pur-
chased. I showed him the handle of my sword,
and pointed out a few of its uses. He appeared
surprised, and said, " What a distance to come
for ivory for such simple purposes ! " and with
much simplicity asked me if white men made
houses with it.

Two slaves then entered with circular fans made
of bullock's hide. They commenced fanning me,
and I experienced a little relief from the ex-
cessive heat. Having sent word to the king that
I was ready, he entered the yard dressed much
the same, with the exception of a sheet which he
now wore, and a small hat of crimson velvet
trimmed with gold lace.

We left his house arm in arm, preceded by his

* Foofoo is pounded yam, similar to mashed potatoes,
with palm-oil and Cayenne pepper (capsicum annuum).

2 C 2

388 SUBMISSIVE CEREMONY.

drummer, who made a most horrible noise in his
avocation, and a youth bearing a horse's tail sus-
pended to a pole. On each side of us were a
great number of soldiers armed with spears and
muskets, and on the way to the water-side we
were met by upwards of five thousand of his
subjects. It is the custom at Eboe, when the
king is out, and indeed in-doors as well, for the
principal people to kneel on the ground and
kiss it three times when he passes. We were
met by several of the superior class of people,
who performed this submissive act without hesi-
tation. Among those who knelt was a female,
the largest woman I ever saw. When this pon-
derous machine of human flesh knelt down, her
breasts touched the ground, and she even rivalled
the celebrated Daniel Lambert. I could not help
stopping to look at this Hottentot Venus several
minutes.

The king s state canoe is a very large one, ca-
pable of containing eighty or ninety persons.

We now embarked. A lofty pole bore the
union jack ; and as we left the creek, the natives
crowded in great numbers to the different landing-
places to look at us. King Obie appeared glad
to see Mr. Lander, and, as a matter of course.

king's obie's covetousness. 389

begged almost everything he saw. Even when
I was at his house, he wished me to give him a
shirt, a pair of stockings, a pair of shoes, and sus-
penders ; and ** then," said he, " I shall be all the
same as white man !" He also admired my scarlet
tobe, and asked me for it ; but it was convenient
not to understand him. Mr. Lander presented
him with a splendid officer's coat ; notwithstand-
ing which, he was yet dissatisfied, and asked him
for everything he saw. Another looking-glass was
presented to him ; another was placed on one side
of the boat, which when he observed, he asked
permission to look at it, admired it, and handed it
to his people to pass into the canoe with the great-
est indifference ; and although he was told it was
intended for the king of Attah, it was all the
same to him. I was surprised to find him so co-
vetous ; but it would have been bad policy to
deny him anything after he had once seen it. A
fine breeze springing up, we set sail, Obie pro-
mising to send the four canoe-boys after us.

The Eboes, like most savages, are a pilfering
race. I witnessed one specimen of their ingenu-
ity in this respect. During the time Obie was
in the boat, some of his people were caught
stealing a lamp and a pair of blanket trousers of

390 RETURN TO OBIE FOR ASSISTANCE.

mine, which were found in the king's canoe.
When Obie was told of it, he pretended to be in
a violent passion, and ordered the canoe from
alongside. When Mr. Lander and Captain
Hill last came down the river, two pistols were
stolen from the boat at Eboe.

It was nearly dark when we took our depar-
ture, and our canoemen made poor progress,
complaining of fatigue, three of them besides be-
ing sick ; so that there was every prospect of our
having a long and tedious journey, the boat as
well as the canoe being very deep. Obie had not
sent the four pullaboys he promised ; Mr. Lan-
der was very ill, as well as two others ; and under
these circumstances, I thought if additional as-
sistance could be had, it was certainly desirable.
I immediately suggested my going to Obie for
the boys ; which Mr. Lander approving, I hailed
the canoe and went on board her.
> It was between nine and ten o'clock at night,
and a very heavy dew was falling as I proceeded
to land, and a most sickly mephitic smell issued
from the morass before the town . I walked up to
the king's residence, and found in the outer yards
two fires, round which were seated his slaves. I
sent word that I wanted to see the king, and he

CONVERSATION WITH OBIE. 391

soon came to me with a cloth thrown over his
shoulders. He was very cordial, and said he
would send the boys in the morning after us. I
told him that would be of no manner of use, as
we must have them then ; and in a short time
four boys were called in, who each in his turn
knelt down before the king. He admonished
them to be good boys, and work for white men
until they died, and not to give over pulling
strong. He then inquired what he was to call
me. I told him " friend," and his attempts to pro-
nounce the word as I spoke it were entertaining
enough. He then adverted to the theft which
was discovered at the boat, and informed me that
he had made several inquiries, but could not
detect the culprit ; adding very emphatically if
ever we caught them again, to let him know, and
he would cut their heads off!

King Obie was particular in his inquiries after
Mr. Lander, and looking at me earnestly, said,
*'You be ezogo (doctor) for my friend, and you
pay him attention : when belly sick, bad palaver,
very bad palaver :" I told him I hoped he would
recover ; and he added, *^ I no want you to stop
now ; go to my freend and make him good again ;
and when I see him again, I hope he will be quite
good."

392 EBOE AND ITS INHABITANTS.

I reached the canoe between two and three
o'clock in the morning very much fatigued, and
after a pull of ten or twelve miles joined Mr.
Lander in the boat.

Eboe being built some distance inland, near a
creek which runs out of the Niger, is in the
rainy season nearly surrounded by a morass.
The Niger spreads quite above the bank, lining
the west side of the creek. The huts are built
in a straggling form, and the town contains
upwards of six thousand inhabitants. They are
powerful, well-formed men : some of them are of
a light yellow colour, others very black, and
their features highly characteristic of the negro*
They are industrious in growing yams, immense
quantities being sent down to the coast and up
the river. They carry on an extensive trade in
palm-oil and slaves : traders from Bonny, Benin,
and Brass are constantly at Eboe purchasing
palm-oil. The superior class of females wear
immense anklets of ivory, seven or eight inches
wide, and an inch thick : they are almost unable
to walk with these immense weights round their
legs. They are fond of coral or cornelian, red
cloth, gums, knives, rum, and cowries. They
wear their hair in various ways : some have it

HIPPOPOTAMI FEEDING. 393

plaited and twisted in a perpendicular form
above their heads. The Eboe country is very
unhealthy, particularly to Europeans ; and the
natives are subject to dysentery, diarrhoea, itch,
and a bad description of lepra and ulcers. On
my going to and returning from Eboe at night,
the atmosphere was loaded with millions of
fire-flies, illuminating it as far as the eye could
reach.

On the following morning, we saw three hippo-
potami feeding about fifty yards from the water's
edge. I had a distinct view of them : they were
as large as a cow, with very large heads, ears
like a mouse (very small for so large an animal),
skin dark, and heavy thick legs. The morning
was sultry and showery. I was happy to observe
that Mr. Lander was considerably better. As
we pursued our journey, we found the width of
the river varied from one mile to a mile and a
quarter, and even a mile and a half. At noon we
observed a little rising ground at Kirree, distant
about thirty miles from us. In the morning we
had passed a very large island and sandbank, and
saw several hundred wild ducks. In the after-
noon a violent thunderstorm lasted some time.
We noticed a number of birds' nests suspended

394 TOWN OF KIRREE.

from the boughs of trees out of the reach of
monkeys and serpents : the birds were of the
woodpecker species.

The next day we were in sight of Kirree. Some
rocks were seen near the water's edge, their sur-
face blackened by the effects of the atmosphere ;
they appeared to be of a sandstone formation.
It was gratifying, after having been on the water
so long, to be relieved from the monotony we had
experienced, and to get a view of higher ground,
and consequently of a more healthy country.

On the left bank of the river were several fields
of corn, and the large-spreading tamarind-tree
{tamarindus Indicd) was seen. As we passed on,
M^e observed upwards of thirty small canoes with
fishermen following each other with great regu-
larity. At this place we purchased several
bunches of plantains for a button each : blue cut
beads were also in great demand here.

In passing Kirree, the natives concealed them-
selves in the bush or hedges, and called out as
loud as possible " Oh, Eboe ! Oh, Eboe !" (white
man, white man,) and invited us to go on shore ;
but they were evidently afraid, as they kept
themselves out of our view, and it was only occa-
sionallv that we saw their white teeth and jet

WAR-CANOES. 395

countenances peeping from behind the trees.
At this place we got into a wrong branch of the
river while admiring a very pretty island : this
branch is said to lead to Fundah. In a few
minutes we were abreast of the identical spot
where the Messrs. Lander were plundered on their
way down the river. The sandbank is very large ;
and when we passed it, there were upwards of
thirty canoes alongside, the traders in them be-
ing engaged in cooking.

On the previous morning we had a very narrow
escape ; and had it not been that we showed our-
selves ready, and the natives observed our little
swivels, the consequences would have been se-
rious. In passing a large town on the left bank of
the river, at the opening of a branch leading to
Bonny, then dry, we observed two immense war-
canoes : one was on our larboard quarter, and the
other, at a distance of one hundred yards, came
bearing down directly on us. Seeing that they
were bent on mischief, I sprang forward to the
swivel in the bows, and pointed it to the canoe
on the larboard quarter. The natives observed
me turn the gun round, and every one of them
immediately jumped overboard, after throwing
down their muskets and cutlasses, a great many

396 KIRREE PIRATES.

remaining under water several seconds. In the
mean time, those in the canoe ahead of us, as soon
as they observed the natives of the other canoe
jump overboard, steered their canoe more in-
ashore. We continued on our course, and or-
dering our men to pull as fast as possible,
were favoured by a breeze, which luckily en-
abled us to get out of their sight in a short time.
The natives of this part of the country are
great pirates, frequently plundering those of the
small adjoining towns. It was impossible to
pass this spot without reflecting on the exposure
we were then subject to, and expecting that the
same disaster which had befallen Lander, if not
worse, might happen to us. The natives appear
to view the white men's presence in their country
with suspicion and distrust.

In the afternoon a canoe came alongside of us,
with a brother of Abboka, King of Damuggoo,
and an eunuch of the King of Attah. The latter
was a fine-looking man of a most effeminate ap-
pearance ; he wore a small cap made in the shape
of a lady's morning cap without strings, a striped
tobe, with one of a darker colour underneath.
They stated that when Abboka heard that Mr.
Lander had departed to the sea-side, he was very

FINE SCENERY. 397

unhappy, and said he would never return again.
We learned from them that Mr. Laird had re-
turned from Fundah ; and we were glad to hear
of his being alive, as Mr. Lander had no hopes
of his ultimate recovery. On the following day,
1 found myself very unwell, and worse than the
day before, with a smart attack of fever.

On Monday, July the 1st, at five in the morn-
ing, we left our halting-place and passed some
beautiful lofty trees. The scenery at this place
was very fine, and we enjoyed the beautiful pro-
spect it afforded us as we passed up the river. The
night was also fine ; and a little after midnight
we came to an anchor abreast of our usual halt-
ing-place, a sandbank. At 5 a. m. we were again
on our way, and about noon came in sight of
Adamey, which we passed about 4 p. m. although
the current was very strong. There are several
fine cotton-trees, three in particular {bomhax
Ceiba), on the bank before this town. The huts
of the natives are situated back among the trees.
Soon after this we passed the spot where, as Mr.
Lander informed me, several of our officers and
men of the steamers were interred: the soil is a
red sand with a grey-coloured clay, the country
thickly wooded, and banks upwards of thirty feet

398 TOWN OF ADAMEY.

high. The crews of these vessels were as fine a
set of men as ever left a port of England. Per-
haps, if any error was committed, it was in select-
ing so many very young men ; as I have observed
that young seamen on the most trifling indisposi-
tion consider themselves dangerously ill, and give
themselves up to despair, which invariably has
a fatal tendency in this climate. As we passed
the town, an immense number of natives were
assembled on the banks, all anxious to have a
look at the white men. We stopped at a sand-
bank, about two miles from the town, and gladly
purchased some Indian corn ground and made
into bread, called by the natives " cankey." We
were informed that Abboka, the king, was at
Attah.

Continuing our journey, on the following day
about noon we halted abreast of a town for provi-
sions, for which the natives asked an exorbitant
price. The next day we despatched Mr. Brown
ashore for provisions. The night was fine, with
a brilliant moonlight. At 2 a. m. we continu-
ed on our journey. We had been informed that
the Felatahs were at war with Cuttum-Cu-
raffee, and had destroyed and burnt a town
named Addacooda, and several others. I now

CORN MILLET. 399

found myself much better, having had a severe
attack of fever : I was also happy to observe
Mr. Lander was much better. The river the
last few days has not varied much in width and
appearance. We purchased a little salt to-day of
a very black colour, having been subjected to a
process of heat, by the natives, to prevent its de-
liquescence. The water the last few days has
presented a very muddy appearance. We halted
at 6 p. M.

A little after midnight we again proceeded.
The weather in the morning was dull. At day-
light we saw a canoe containing three persons,
habited in tobes, looking as broad as dining-
tables ; and soon after, two beautiful cranes, a
black one and a white one, flew over our heads.
We passed several fields of corn millet (sorghu??i
vidgare), in the course of the morning ; but it was
not quite ripe. An immense number of birds
were hovering over them. In some of the fields
were platforms* about twelve feet high, on which
boys were stationed under a thatched roof, pull-
ing a string, to which several calabashes were
attached within such a distance from each other
that they would strike together by merely touch-
* This device is alluded to by Mr. Lander.

400 SURPRISE OF TFIE NATIVES.

ing the string. These calabashes were filled with
pebbles, in order more effectually to scare and ter-
rify the marauders.

The morning was very fine, but oppressively
hot. We purchased one hundred eggs, and out
of that number only found fifteen good ones. In
Africa the fowls are the property of the women.
The natives do not eat the eggs themselves, it
being considered criminal to do so, but allow
them to remain in the nests to be hatched ;
which accounts for so many bad ones being
met with.

As we pursued our course up the river before
a fine breeze under our sail, our rapid progress
appeared to attract the attention of some of the
natives, who could not understand how it was
the boat went so fast without the application of
paddles. We repeatedly heard them exclaiming
as we passed, " It is maghony, maghony (medi-
cine, medicine)," not one suspecting that the sails
were the cause of our progress.

Soon afterwards we were surprised on per-
ceiving a canoe with the union jack flying ; and
on nearing it, we found it contained the brother
of Abboka, King of Damuggoo, with two of his
wives and about fifteen or twenty pullaboys.

TOWN OF ATTAH. 401

This same man presented Mr. Lander a fine able-
bodied slave, named Al Hadge, who had acted
as pilot when the vessels came up.

About six in the evening we got into shoal
water, and shortly after a violent tornado came
on, accompanied by heavy rains, which soon satu-
rated our beds. We remained on the shoal for
some time ; but, on getting off again on the fol-
lowing morning, we soon reached an island before
Attah. Mr. Lander was very unwell this morn-
ing, owing to his having been wet last night.
I myself felt very weak, and almost unable to
stand a minute without falling. This I attributed
in a great measure to want of exercise.

Attah is a very healthy-looking spot, situate
on a high hill of sandstone formation. The huts
are constructed in the figure of a cone. Several
of the natives came down to the bank, some of
them wearing ragged tobes, and others with
pieces of common cloth thrown carelessly over
their shoulders.

Last evening we passed the burial-place of the
late Captain Miller of the brig Columbine, and
the second engineer of the Quorra. The spot is
a fine sandbank, on the right side of the river, a
little below the town of Attah.

VOL. I. 2d

402 WRETCHED HUTS.

Soon after daybreak, Abboka sent us a pre-
sent of a goat and some yams ; to King Obie's
boys he also made a present of a goat. In re-
turn, Mr. Lander presented him with a looking-
glass, likewise one each to the King and Queen
of Attah. Mr. Brown and Jowdie were sent
with the presents.

We had anchored abreast of a sandbank co-
vered with an immense number of huts built of
dried grass and in a very wretched state of di-
lapidation. Upon inquiry, I found that the sub-
jects of Abboka had occupied the bank while
more substantial dwellings were erected for them
at Iddah. It appeared that Abboka and his
brother, the King of Iddah, after a separation of
seven years, during the whole of which period
there had been an uninterrupted war between
them, had been reconciled by the exertions of
Mr. Lander, who had brought about this desir-
able understanding upon quitting Damuggoo.
Abboka had pitched his huts there, and now oc-
cupied the lower end of the town, which is named
Abboka town. The houses of Attah are formed
of red clay.

At 10 A. M. a fine breeze springing up, we de-
parted, and made rapid progress under our sail

KING ABBOKA. 403

until one, when we ran aground. A canoe was
descried making in the direction of our boat,
and as the messengers had not returned, we con-
cluded they were in it. On coming alongside,
however, Abboka and a messenger from the King
of Attah appeared. Abboka is a fine old man,
with a long grey beard, and is very stout. He
was dressed in a striped tobe, and on his fingers
he displayed six rings of silver and four of cop-
per. He wore several charms of leather round
his neck, containing seeds and scraps of the
Koran written on paper by his Mallams : he also
wore round his wrists four strings of Nufie beads.
He stated that the king, his brother, had sent
two horses to the water-side, and was much dis-
appointed at our having departed without pre-
viously paying him a visit. He sent us a young
bullock and a goat, to which the queen and the
eldest princess had added a goat each.

Abboka left us about 4 p. m., at which time
our canoe had not returned. Being extremely
partial to rum, he had taken so much of it as to
render it necessary for him to lie down, with his
interpreter Al Hadge, and both went fast asleep.
Shortly after we made sail, the canoe returned,
having left Mr. Brown and Jowdie behind.

2 d2

404 THE KONG MOUNTAINS.

In passing under the hill on which the town
of Attali is situated, a magnificent and imposing
view of the Kong Mountains suddenly presents
itself. There is something so grand in this pro-
spect, that no language can do justice to a de-
scription of it. Attah, being so pleasantly situat-
ed, and possessing features so different from any
I had hitherto been accustomed to see, struck me
as being a particularly interesting place. The
novelty of its appearance, and the magnificent
prospects of the mountains, (the first I had seen
since leaving my native land, many months ago,)
excited sensations of pleasure and delight to
which I had long been a stranger.

At sunset we halted for rest. At midnight we
continued on our journey by the light of a bright
moon, and when day dawned we were provoked
to find ourselves close to the spot we had left
five hours before, the indolent fellows in the ca-
noe having been asleep instead of attending to
the paddles. However, we made up for it by a
run of about thirty miles.

On Tuesday, the following day, with the assist-
ance of a smart breeze, we made good progress
and were nearing the Kong Mountains rapidly.
One mountain had a very remarkable appearance.

lander's bird rock. 405

resembling a sugar-loaf, covered with verdure and
crowned with a dark black summit. The tops of
the mountains are all of a tabular form (Kattam
Katrassi).

On Wednesday^ July the 10th, at about
10 A. M. we found ourselves abreast of the sand-
bank where the Bocqua market is held ; a little
below which, on the right hand of the river, is the
spot where Mr. Lander nearly lost his life. The
reader may probably remember the lively de-
scription he gives of the danger he was in here.
The arrow was aimed, the bow was drawn, and
in another moment the fatal shaft would have
done its business, had not the arm which directed
it been arrested by a benevolent hand ; and Mr.
Lander and his brother would have been buried
beneath a shower of arrows.

The branch up which we came this morning
is about a mile in width. Just as the breeze
was springing up, we had the misfortune to break
our rudder, which gave us some trouble, and lost
us some time. On our left was the craggy emi-
nence named the Bird Rock by Lander. It wears
a noble and commanding appearance, and is con-
tiguous to the shore. We were admiring its fine
bold form as we passed it, when our attention was

406 MEETING WITH THE STEAMERS.

suddenly attracted up the river, and, to our great
astonishment and gratification, we beheld the
two steamers under weigh approaching us, and
shortly after they anchored within half a mile of
us. When seen from a distance, the vessels bore
a striking resemblance to barns, from their being
thatched fore and aft, as a protection against
the sun and rain ; but the happiness we enjoyed
on meeting them, in the relief that we now had
from a confined boat exposed to the weather, be-
sides the satisfaction of seeing our friends, may
be better imagined than described.

MORTALITY ON BOARD THE VESSEL. 407

CHAPTER V.

Rejoin the Alburkah. — Visit Mr. Laird.— His deplorable

Condition Return of the Steamers to Attah Visit

to the King of Attah. — Description of his Person and
Palace. — Death of another Krooman. — The Steamers sepa-
rate.— The Alburkah proceeds up the River. — Mount Ca-
ractacus. — Mallani Catab ; his Character. — Straitened
for Provisions. — Enter the Tchadda. — Lieutenant Allen
taken ill. — The Alburkah runs aground.

A BOAT was quickly despatched to us from
the Quorra, manned by Kroomen, with Harvey
and Hector. We learnt from them that Mr.
Laird had returned from the Tchadda in an ill
state of health, and that since Mr. Lander had
been down to the sea, four persons had died on
board the vessels ; namely, old Pascoe, Smith,
a seaman, and Accrah, a Krooman, in the Albur-
kah ; and on board the Quorra, Frying-pan, a
Krooman, had died.

We now proceeded to the Alburkah, and were
greeted by Lieutenant Allen on our arrival, who
had been left in charge of her. In a short time

408 MR. laird's deplorable condition.

we went on board the Quorra, and I was shock-
ed at the dreadful state in which I found Mr.
Laird : pale and emaciated to the last degree,
he appeared as if risen from the grave. He was
suffering from a disease named by the natives
"craw craw," — an inveterate form of scabies,
which, I am informed, is epidemic. In the ves-
sels almost every white man and officer, and all
the Kroomen, had had it. I learnt from Mr.
Laird, that he had been up the Tchadda to Fun-
dah, and had taken some goods with him, of
which the king, African-like, had fraudulently
deprived him.

Mr. Lander, Lieutenant Allen, and myself
having dined on board the Quorra, we returned
to the Alburkah in the evening, and as to myself,
I cannot say in very high spirits. We had
brought despatches with us for Mr. Laird,
and I was in great hopes of there being some
letters enclosed for me; but I was doomed to
bitter disappointment. Mr. Lander was also
very much disappointed at not receiving any.

On the following morning, I went on board
the Quorra to visit Mr. Laird, as I hoped with
proper treatment that in a few days I might be
of considerable service to him. A number of

BOCQUA MARKET. 409

canoes were at the market, and a Mallam
brought a fine elephant's tooth on board the
Alburkah for sale. Mr. Lander, who had been
considerably indisposed the last few days, was
now much better. The surrounding country is
hilly, the mountains being all of a tabular form
and very picturesque.

In the course of the day we visited the market,
which was numerously attended. Among the
crowd I saw several Mallams with clean blue-and-
white striped tobes. The commodities exposed
for sale principally consisted of Indian corn,
Nufie mats, elephants' teeth, tobes, spiced balls,
Indian corn, flour, horses of a small breed, slaves
in irons, blue beads of native manufacture, and
country beer : a few cocoa-nuts, goats, and dogs
were seen among the articles offered for sale.
The market is held every ten days.

On Sunday, July 15th, I had an attack of
intermittent fever. These attacks are becoming
less frequent, which I attribute to change of
climate. During the whole day I felt consider-
ably indisposed.

Monday, July l6th, at 6 a. m. the Quorra
got under weigh for Attah ; and shortly after, the
Alburkah followed her example. About half-

410 RETURN TO ATTAH.

past eight, we passed a small town prettily situ-
ated on a rising hill, named Attacollico, off
which the steamers lay at anchor nine days
on their way up. The depth of water since
leaving Bocqua has varied from seven fathoms
to seven and three quarters mid-channel. At ^
11 A. M. we anchored nearly opposite the town of
Attah, and the Quorra also astern of us. I found
myself very unwell during the whole day, but in
the evening was somewhat better, and was able
to visit Mr. Laird.

The morning of the 17th was very dull. Late
at night, Soho, a trader from Cuttum-Curaffee,
came alongside with an elephant's tooth for sale :
he was obliged to come under cover of darkness,
as the King of Attah would allow no traders to
visit the vessels excepting his own. Soho said
he wanted to see Lander, and had run the risk of
coming thus far to see him, and sell his tusk to
greater advantage than selling it at Iccory mar-
ket to the King of Attah's traders.

On the 18th, the weather in the morning being
extremely fine, we paid a visit to the King of
Attah. Horses were sent down to the water-
side for our use. These animals are of a small
breed, very high-spirited and swift. The saddles

VISIT TO THE KING OF ATTAH. 411

are high, with a peak in front, and the bridles
very complicated — a number of straps and
ropes covered with charms being placed over
and attached to the horse's head.

We had a very agreeable ride through Al-
burkah's town. In some places I observed grass
rising to the height of eighteen or nineteen feet.
We passed by the market-place, but I could per-
ceive very few vendible commodities, except a
small quantity of corn. The natives were armed
with spears, bows and arrows ; and several, I ob-
served, wore a knife in addition. As we pro-
ceeded, we met a very interesting-looking wo-
man of the Eboe country : she wore a pair of
very large ivory anklets. On our right I per-
ceived a gigantic tree of the monkey-bread-fruit-
kind {Adansonia digitata).

After continuing our journey for a mile and a
half or two miles, we arrived at the king's palace.
To attempt to describe, or enumerate the houses,
passages, through which we were conducted
would be utterly impossible ; but I do not exag-
gerate when I say that their number amounted
to upwards of fifty. I cannot pretend to say
whether these passages, &c. led directly to
the king's apartments or not, or whether we

412 VISIT TO THE KING OF ATTAH.

were conducted by a circuitous route in or-
der to impress us with an idea of the diffi-
culties which strangers would experience should
they endeavour to penetrate into it without a
guide. Many of these passages were merely aper-
tures just wide enough to admit the body, and
frequent and severe were the thumps we receiv-
ed as we worked our way through them on our
hands and knees. At length, to our no small sa-
tisfaction, we were desired to sit down in a small
apartment, and a mat was prepared for our re-
ception. Shortly after, the king's chief wife en-
tered, accompanied by some slaves bringing in
some foofoo, and fowls dressed in palm-oil. Hav-
ing first desired the intrepreter to taste the food,
we proceeded to satisfy the cravings of our own
appetites. We considered this precaution the
more necessary, as the King of Attah had mani-
fested a hostile feeling towards Mr. Lander at
the time the steamers were aground at Adda-
coodah, and threatened to cut off his hea^ if he
had an opportunity. He would not allow any
teeth to go on board, and forbade the natives to
furnish us with any kind of provisions. In ad-
dition to this, he despatched spies to the town of
.Addacoodah, to watch all their motions. Pre-

HIS PERSON AND DRESS. 413

vious to our quitting the vessels, we determined
that he should have more white men's heads than
one, if he was anxious for them : we all carried
our swords with us, and Lieutenant Allen and
myself each armed ourselves with a brace of
pistols.

After waiting a short time, we were conducted
through more apartments, and at length reached
the court-yard, where the king was ready to
receive us. This he did with a kind of stiff for-
mality and distrust, that determined us still more
to be on our guard against a surprise. He was
habited in a most peculiar manner. His dress
consisted of a rich silk tobe, resembling in colour
and pattern the skin of a leopard. Underneath
this, he wore two or three others. On his head
he had a large cocked-hat trimmed with tinsel
lace. His legs were adorned with brass fenders
projecting about four inches from the tibia, and
these leggings were finished with sandals covered
with red cloth. On his breast was a rude orna-
ment of brass, apparently intended for the sun ;
and a number of other brazen ornaments hung
suspended from his neck, with several dozen
strings of blue beads and alternate rings of coral.
In place of ear-rings, he wore plates of ivory.

414 VISIT TO THE KING OF ATTAH.

which effectually concealed every part of his
features, leaving nothing visible but his eyes,
nose, and the centre of his mouth. Two eu-
nuchs knelt at his feet, whose shoulders served
him for a footstool. On our right was an apart-
ment, or seraglio, occupied by his women,
amounting to about two thousand : we saw
about five hundred of his wives, who were dis-
tinguished by wearing a quill in their hair, as a
symbol of their rank. A trumpeter, stationed
near the house, at intervals of a few seconds
saluted us with a most discordant bray.

The morning being excessively hot and sultr'y,
we were soon desirous of returning ; but the au-
dience was not so easily broken off, and lasted
much longer than suited our inclinations. Mr.
Allen, finding himself very unwell from his long
exposure to the sun, we mentioned the circum-
stance to the attendants, and were allowed to
enjoy the shade of the hut with the king and
queen. I was seated near the latter august per-
sonage, who had stained her face, finger-nails,
and nails of her feet with henna,* to add to her

* Henna is a leaf, and is moistened and allowed to re-
main on the parts twelve hours. It produces a dark red
colour, and is also used to the face, giving it the appearance
of the polish of a briglu mahogany table.

DEATH OF ANOTHER KROOMAN. 415

attractions. This is brought from the interior,
where it is considered an indispensable requisite
for the lady's toilet.

Mr. Lander informed the king before we left
him, that a report had reached him, which attri-
buted the death of Pascoe and others, at Adda-
coodah, to poison ; but his majesty denied all
knowledge of it.* He ordered us a present of a
fine bullock, and appeared very anxious for us
to remain and establish a traffic. The confe-
rence having lasted two hours, we took our leave
of his sable majesty. Abboka returned with
us to the water-side, and we arrived safe on
board, and, almost contrary to our expectations,
with our heads on our shoulders.

This morning, a Krooman (Jack Savy) died
on board the Quorra, being the third they had
lost. I felt very anxious to make a post mortem
examination, having been given to understand
that the other Kroomen had died under very
suspicious circumstances. They had been per-
mitted to live on shore, and it was supposed that
poison had been maliciously administered : Mr.
Lander was decidedly of this opinion. The man

* Attali afterwards confessed to me that he had caused
Pascoe to be poisoned.

416 CONDUCT OF THE KROOMEN.

in question had felt indisposed for some time :
he complained of vomiting, a burning sensation
at the pit of the stomach, thirst, debility, and
occasional involuntary stools. His whole frame
was very much swollen, particularly the legs and
lower extremities. Having mentioned it to Mr.
Laird, I went with the determination of examin-
ing the body. I found the Kroomen engaged in
sewing up the corpse : I mentioned the motives
of my visit, but met with a firm and decisive re-
fusal. I expostulated, but they continued their
work. I requested them to allow me to examine
the face, and I would be satisfied ; but this like-
wise they refused. Finding entreaties vain, I
proceeded forcibly to remove the cloth from the
face of the deceased. The body appeared very
much discoloured, and presented a ghastly livid
and appalling appearance, more so from being
deeply pitted with the small-pox : a dark-
coloured fluid was oozing from each angle of the
mouth. I strongly suspect that the poor fellow
died from ulceration of the stomach, having
doubtless swallowed something of a poisonous
and deleterious nature.

I now learnt that the Quorra was going to the
sea-side, and not the Alburkah, as I had ex-

THE ALBURKAII ASCENDS THE RIVER. 417

pected. From the 19th to the 26th of July, I
was much engaged in attendance on the sick of
both vessels, and in the agreeable task of writ-
ing to my friends in England. The despatches
were taken on board the Quorra, to be forwarded
from the sea-side.

The 27th of July, being the day appointed for
proceeding up the interior in the Alburkah with
Mr. Lander, I took leave of Mr. Laird, and at
1 2 o'clock we were under weigh. Mr. Laird had
rapidly improved during the last few days, and
though he still continued in a very weak and
debilitated condition, I was in hopes that the
sea-breeze would be of essential service to him.

The river was now evidently rising rapidly ;
the sandbank on which we had halted on our
passage up, was completely covered with water,
as well as the huts upon it. Our friend Abbo-
ka met with a serious misfortune, the night be-
fore we left, in his house being set on fire, as it
was supposed, purposely. Since leaving Attah,
the depth has varied from one to two and
three-quarters fathoms. At 7- 30, p. m. we came
to an anchor off Attacollico. The following
day, being short of wood, we sent the Kroomen

VOL. I. 2 E

418 MOUNT CARACTACUS.

ashore to cut some : the morning very fine with
strong breezes.

On the 28th, at 6 a. m. we got under weigh,
the weather being dull. At 10. 15, we came to
an anchor abreast of the Bird Rock, and sent
Kroomen to procure a supply of wood. A cano6
came off, paddled by a native, who brought a
few eggs and yams to Mr. Lander as a present.
From the appearance of the rocks, the river had
yet to rise sixteen or eighteen feet higher than
we found it at this time, although the bank on
which Bocqua market was held, when we were
here a few days ago, was completely covered,
and no traces of it visible.*

At 1 p. M. on the 29th of July, we got under
weigh, and pursued our course up the river be-
tween the Kong Mountains, whose tops were
crowned with dark luxuriant foliage, which
added greatly to the richness of the scenery.
On many of them evident traces of cultivation
were observed, extending almost to their sum-
mits. On the western range was a majestic
mountain, the highest in this part, to which
Lieutenant Allen gave the name of Mount Ca-

* The rock on which Attah is situated is about three
hundred feet above the surface of the river.

MONKEY LAND. 419

ractacus. When the boats first came up the
river, an immense number of monkeys were seen
on a spot a little below this part, which was
immediately named Monkey Land. The Kong
Mountains, and the rocks in this neighbourhood,
are composed of black granite mixed with iron-
stone. At about 6 p. M. we anchored off Ah-
goojee.

At 2 p. M. on Tuesday the 30th, we were
again on our way up the river, running much
risk occasionally from rocks partly covered with
water, and against which we often struck. In
the course of the day we passed several lofty
mountains on the west side of the river, of a
tabular form, whose sides and summits wore a
dark, gloomy aspect. We likewise passed a very
extensive plain covered with rich verdure. Our
general course was about north-north-east. At
6 p. M. we passed the spot where the Quorra lay
so long at anchor ; contiguous to which is a
gentle eminence, the favourite haunt of the late
Dr. Briggs. We came to an anchor off Adda-
coodah between 6 and 7 p. m.

On the following day Mallam Catab came on
board : it was strongly suspected that this fellow
had poisoned poor old Pascoe. He is a fine, good-

2 E 2

420 TOWN OF ADDACOODAH.

looking man, muscular and strongly built, and
was respectably attired in new tobes. Some time
ago, Abboo, a slave, was purchased from him,
and his freedom granted to him, that he might
act as interpreter, for whom he received fif-
teen thousand cowries. In the course of the
day, a native with disease in the eyes came on
board, and applied to me for relief: having
made him a lotion, he presented me in return
with some eggs and a fowl, which I could not
refuse.

On the 1st of August we went ashore to the
town of Addacoodah, accompanied by Lieute-
nant Allen, to take observations. We found the
town in ruins ; it having been destroyed a short
time previously by the Felatahs. It is prettily
situated on and between large rocks of granite,
which give it a novel and interesting appear-
ance. As soon as we landed, we perceived a
beautiful stream of water, clear and transparent
as crystal, flowing from an aperture in the
rock. Several houses were burnt to the ground,
while in others nothing but the walls were left
standing. Among the ruins of one I observed
two fishing-nets ; and, while we were looking
about, six of the natives appeared to observe us

ACCIDENT TO MALLAM CATAB. 421

with some suspicion, and we therefore did not
stay long.

While on shore, we saw a number of beautiful
birds. Some of them had a plumage of a bright
indigo colour ; while that of others was of the
richest purple, blended with hues of the deepest
scarlet.

In the afternoon the Mallam's canoe came
alongside. His people brought word that he
had nearly blown his hand off, owing to the sud-
den ignition of some gunpowder which he had
inadvertently placed near the fire to dry. He
was in the act of turning it when the accident
occurred. If this man had actually been the
cause of Pascoe's death, he was justly served,
and we should not have regretted the circum-
stance at all if his head had been carried away
in place of his hand ; but our suspicion of him
was grounded on the information that he was
employed by the King of Attah to remove those
persons who are obnoxious to him. I sent him
a lotion for his hand, which I considered was
treating him with more kindness than he de-
served

This afternoon we were destitute of every-
thing eatable ; and while regretting our hard

422 PROCEED TO THE TCHADDA.

lot, two canoes arrived, with goats, yams, corn,
and country flour.

On the 2nd of August, before the sun was
many fathoms high, as the Mallams term it, we
were on our way to the Tchadda. The morning
was beautifully clear and serene ; the sun shone
with uncommon splendour ; and the small rocky
islands in the midst of the stream near the con-
fluence of the two great rivers, the Tchadda and
Niger, gave an enlivening and cheerful charac-
ter to the surrounding scenery.

We were now about to enter a stream which
was (comparatively speaking) totally unknown,
and where no white man had penetrated. What
difliculties we might encounter before our re-
turn we could not foresee ; and we trusted to
the protecting care of Providence for a success-
ful result to our efforts.

Our intention was, if practicable, to reach
Lake Tchad from the Tchadda, which if we
succeeded in doin^ we should add a grand and
important discovery to the results of our voyage.
The natives considered it quite practicable, and
Mallam Catab inquired if we were going to the
Great Sea, meaning the Lake Tchad. To the
westward of us was a long range of mountains.

ENTER THE RIVER. 423

Somewhat higher up, above the confluence of the
Tchadda, is the Kacundo Mountain, or Mount
William, beneath which the Alburkah lay at
anchor nearly six months.

A canoe was now seen to approach us very
rapidly, which, when it came up with us, we
found contained some Mallams of the King of
Addacooda. A boy was also with them, named
Friday, who, for some transgression or other,
had been punished on board the Quorra, whence
he had contrived to effect his escape, although
heavily ironed. Mr. Lander took him on board
the Alburkah, and made the king a present for
his attention to the fugitive.

At 7. 30, we entered the Tchadda. It ap-
peared to be about half a mile wide at the con-
fluence with the Niger. This width did not vary
much up to the spot where we anchored, about
ten miles distant from it. So far the river is
shallow, the soundings varying from one to three
fathoms. We passed several towns, situated on
the banks, the huts of which were of a conical
form, and very neatly constructed.

About 1 p. M. we anchored for wood. Adjacent
to our anchorage we saw several natives, sta-
tioned on the platforms erected to frighten away

424 LIEUT. ALLEN TAKEN ILL.

the birds from the corn. Byway of experiment,
we allowed some of the steam to escape from the
valve or blow-pipe boiler, on which they were
so terrified that they leaped down from the stages
and betook themselves to flight ; and, for some
time after, the towns were quite deserted. The
current of the Tchadda at the confluence runs
at the rate of from two to three knots an hour.
I regretted to find now that Lieutenant Allen
became very unwell. One seaman, and the mate
Roose, likewise complained of indisposition.

The next day Lieutenant Allen, after an un-
pleasant night, in which we had suffered much
from mosquitoes, continued very unwell. The
morning was excessively wet ; and the ther-
mometer at 79°. Our progress had been di-
minished, from the engine not having sufficient
power to stem the force of the current. We had
now been a week in coming thus far from Attah.
The distance from Attah to Bocqua is about
thirty miles ; and from the latter place hither,
about thirty-five.

At 10. 50, we got under weigh : tried the
rate of the current, and found it to be two knots
per hour. A strong breeze sprung up from the
northward, and continued a short time. The

ALBURKAH RUNS AGROUND. 425

reach we were now in lay about east three-quar-
ters south ; and with regret we saw that our
little vessel, at times, could scarcely stem the
rapidity and violence of the current. The river
is about fifteen hundred yards wide ; the banks
are flat, and appeared low. The country near
the river appeared to be far inferior to that on
the banks of the Niger; although, during the
last few miles, the country around us had assum-
ed a much more pleasing aspect.

The river is wider, and is deeper, during
the last few miles; in some places we had
four fathoms water, but in other places it ap-
peared very shallow. This afternoon we dis-
turbed a very fine alligator, the longest I have
yet seen, being about thirteen feet long. He
swam a very considerable distance before he at-
tempted to sink. At 6 p. m. we unfortunately
ran into shoal water ; soundings before had been
two fathoms, and there was nearly that depth of
water at the bows. Some unsuccessful attempts
were made to get the vessel off; and, night
coming on, we were obliged to desist until the
morning.

When on board the brig Columbine, Captain
Hill desired me to take charge of his property

426 MAKE LIST OF CAPT. HILL'S EFFECTS.

in case of his death. I made an inventory of the
principal articles, and copied them into a small
journal, which I this morning delivered into the
hands of Mr. R. Lander.

FRENCHWOOD. 427

CHAPTER VI.

Continue up the Tchadda. — Frenchwood. — Villages of Obivah
and Obofuh. — Visit from the Chief. — A Defrauder punished.
— Eggoohla. — Yimmahah. — Anchor off Yoohai. — Acatah.

— 77^6 Bassa and Aquoto country. — AncJior off Ammagadah.

— The Bay of Islands. — Uifavourahle aspect of the Coun-
try— Difficidty of obtaining Provisions. — Messenger sent to
the Kiyig of Domah. — Visit Obohbe. — Return of the Mes-
senger.— Visit Dagboh. — Return down the Tchadda. — The
Alburkah aground. — Anchor off Oruka. — Hopes of obtain-
ing Supplies.

In the course of the morning of the 4th, the
Alburkah was hove off the shoal, and at 9 a. m,
got under weigh. In about half an hour we
passed a most delightful spot of ground, which I
named Frenchwood. Its elevation is about three
hundred and fifty feet ; and it lies on the right,
or northern, bank of the Tchadda, and its extent
is about two miles. It would be a very eligible
situation for building upon, and seems well
adapted for the position of a fojt. It appeared

428 VILLAGES OF OBWAH AND OBOFOH.

to be the most elevated spot of any on the bank
of the river for one hundred miles up. We soon
after passed a town named Obwah. A tornado
came on accompanied with heavy rain. At 11
A. M. we anchored abreast of a small village
named Obofoh.

This place is the residence of a man who had
fraudulently obtained goods to the amount of
seventy-five thousand cowries, by representing
himself as a chief of considerable importance.
At that time he resided on the banks of the Ni-
ger, in a town named Fundykee, and retreated
hither after his successful villany. Mr. Lander
despatched a message to the king, desiring him
to surrender the fugitive, adding, that in case of
refusal he would destroy the town. We were
informed that there were twenty elephant's teeth
for sale at Fundykee. While we were at prayers,
a canoe containing three females and several
men paddled alongside, bringing a present of a
goat and some Indian corn. In the evening we
showed a blue light, and sent up a rocket, which
produced so much panic among the natives, that
many of them precipitated themselves from the
canoes into the water, in order to effect their
escape. On this day Clarke, a man of colour

VISIT FROM THE KING. 429

brought from Fernando Po, unfortunately fell
down the hatchway, and fractured two of his
ribs.

The 5th of August was a very sultry day, and
our men were engaged in cutting wood. Ac-
cording to our expectations, the king of the vil-
lage off which we were lying came on board.
He was an elderly person, with a stout frame of
body. Under two tobes, in which he was dressed,
he wore another of striped silk, but of this only
the sleeves were visible. A pair of Houssa
trousers, the seat of which reached to the ground,
covered the lower part of his person. He was
accompanied by his son, a fine-looking young
man, who was desirous to hear the " palaver "
with the white men. After the usual compli-
ments had passed on both sides, inquiries were
made respecting the person who had defrauded
Mr. Lander. The king answered, that he had
gone to another village. Mr. Lander perceived
the evasion, and in a peremptory tone demand-
ed his surrender, threatening at the same time
to destroy the town unless his request was im-
mediately complied with. A canoe was then des-
patched for the chief of Fundykee, who shortly
after made his appearance, attended by his slave,

430 A DEFRAUD ER PUNISHED.

whom Mr. Laird had hired for six hundred
cowries, with the intention of making him pilot;
but the fellow absconded as soon as he had re-
ceived the amount. Four of our men had been
desired to mask themselves, to turn their coats
inside out, and to make themselves as frightful
as possible ; and were directed to seize the fu-
gitives, and handcuff them, the instant they came
on board. Before the man could ascend the
vessel's side, he, as well as his slave, the run-
away pilot, were in irons. So complete and un-
expected was the capture, that its effect was
just what we desired ; and to describe the fear
depicted on the countenances of the natives
would be impossible. The two culprits were
violently agitated, and two of the natives in the
canoe alongside threw themselves overboard,
and swam a considerable distance before they
could be induced to return. Had we been
able to have preserved our gravity, I have no
doubt that the example of these would have been
followed by every native on board ; however, suf-
ficient was effected for our purpose. The chief
immediately sent for what cowries he could com-
mand, amounting to twelve thousand ; and his
slave went away to fetch two elephant's teeth.

EGGOOHLA. — YIMMAHAH. 431

which were delivered to us as a ransom for his
master. It was, perhaps, fortunate for us that
the minds of the people were so easily subdued.
When the rocket was fired two evenings ago, the
natives who were on the banks of the river, seeing
it descend, threw themselves into the water, to
prevent, as they supposed, their being burnt to
death.

At 10. 30 A. M. on the 6th of August, we got
under weigh. In crossing the river from Obofoh,
to a village named Abasha, we sounded, and
found four fathoms water. The morning was
very dull and hazy. At 12 a. m. we passed the
point of the island on which Obofoh is situate.
The distance from this point to the town is about
two miles. On the north side we sounded, and
found two fathoms water. The average course
by compass, as far as Yimmahah, is east by north.
At this part the width of the river is about three
quarters of a mile. We passed two withered
trees, from which proceeded the chattering of
five or six dozen monkeys, seated on their de-
cayed branches. Passed a town named Eggoohla,
and at 3 p. m. another, called Yimmahah, from
which a road leads to Fundah, distant twenty-
five or thirty miles.

432 ANCHOR OFF YOOHAI.

At halfpast five p.m. we passed a small stream,
the creek leading to Potingah, the port of Fun-
dah, which is about ten miles from it by water,
and the route by land from thence to Fundah is
eighteen miles. An island of considerable ex-
tent lies at the mouth of the creek. Soundings
were two fathoms and a half. The land we
passed to-day was still low ; and a long range,
communicating with the Kong Mountains below
the confluence, gradually disappeared into the
plain, about thirty or thirty-five miles on the left
bank, and about eight or twelve miles distant
from the river. On the right bank there was
very little elevated ground, and merely a few
hillocks. The breadth of the river varied very
little ; the soundings being from five to seven
and ten fathoms. At 5. 30, p. m. we anchored
opposite a small town named Yoohai, and the
only inhabitants we perceived were two or three
of the natives passing through the trees. The
distance we had run since morning we supposed
to be sixteen miles.

As soon as we anchored, we despatched the
canoe ashore for yams, with the interpreter. On
their return they informed us, that the natives,,
concluding we were come to take their town.

OUR OLD ACQUAINTANCE SOHO. 433

were in great alarm ; that the women and chil-
dren had been removed into the bush, and poi-
soned arrows were planted in pit-falls which they
had dug to entrap us. The chief, however, came
on board with a present ; and, notwithstanding
our ill forebodings, we had the satisfaction to
find ourselves in possession of some good eggs.

Between 3 and 4 on the morning of the 7th,
I was awakened by the noise of a canoe near
the vessel. On its coming alongside, our old
acquaintance De Lai, or Soho,* the same person
who paid us such a late evening visit at Attah,
came on board. His arrival was welcomed : he
had been following our track from the Niger for
three days, and had brought a bullock for us.
He is a very shrewd and intelligent man, and
stands six feet high.

About 4 A. M. we had a heavy squall, accom-
panied with rain. It was excessively cold ; in-
deed, I may say, I never felt it colder in the
month of December in England than I did at
this time. In the evening I went with Mr. Al-
len on shore to take an observation ; but feeling
myself suddenly indisposed, I returned on board.
There are several small villages within a short
* " Soho ' means an auctioneer or trader.

VOL. I. 2 F

434 BASSA COUNTRY.

distance of each other, all of which are under
the dominion of the King of Jodah : his terri-
tories extend as far as Yimmahah.

At 11 A. M. on the 8th, we got under weigh,
and passed a small but very neat town on the
right bank of the river, at the rate of about five
knots and a half per hour ; the force of the cur-
rent against us being two knots.

We were now entering the Bassa, or No Bul-
lock country, and passed an island, the name
of which I could not ascertain. The course of
the river from Yoohai is south-south-east. At
3 P. M. we passed a small town on the left bank
of the river, named Acatah, a little on the other
side of which is a small river, which flows within
ten miles of Fundah, bearing north-west from
where it falls into the Tchadda. Near it we
met with a sandbank which extends from the
town of Acatah a considerable distance up the
river. For the first time since leaving the Eboe
country, we observed two palm-trees growing by
the river-side. The banks were low and swampy,
and must render this part very unhealthy : the
appearance of the country near the sea-side [is
very similar. In our progress we passed se-
veral towns situated at a small distance from the

AQUOTO COUNTRY. 435

river, at three of which the natives were armed
with bows, arrows, and knives. The arrows
were fixed in the bows ready for discharge. At
a town on the left bank, upwards of thirty-
natives stationed themselves under a large tree,
presenting their arrows and brandishing their
knives in a menacing manner at us as we passed
them. We took no notice of them, and they
suffered us to pursue our course without moles-
tation.

This country is named Aquoto. We have
now come up the river sixty miles. Our course
this day was about east-south-east, the wind
south-south-east. We were detained about half
an hour by a large Fundah canoe, the owner of
which brought an elephant's tusk, weighing sixty
pounds, but demanded such an exorbitant price
for it, that we declined purchasing it.

The following morning was dull and cold, with
a strong breeze from the westward. Being very
unwell, I would not leave the vessel, and we
wished the interpreter, Al Hadge, to go to a
town about three miles distant for supplies ; but
Abboca having been making war in this neigh-
bourhood, he was afraid of venturing.

At 1. 30 on the 10th, we got under weigh;

2f 2

436 ANCHOR OFF AMMAGADAH.

course of the river, south-south-east. Passed an
island on the left ; and at 4 p. m. passed another
island, lying to the right, covered with long
grass, and producing a few trees. The country
appeared high, and the river somewhat wider.
Our rate of sailing was four miles and a half per
hour ; strength of the current, two miles.

At 4. 35, we passed a beautiful spot of highly-
cultivated ground, laid out in rills. A number
of natives appeared on the bank, armed with
bows and arrows, the latter ready on the string.
In one part which we passed, the river was not
more than five hundred yards wide, being merely
a branch intersected with islands. The banks
are higher, and the course of the stream very
tortuous.

At 5. 45 p. M. we anchored off a town named
Ammagadah. A number of the inhabitants were
seen peeping at us between the trees. On let-
ting go the anchor, the noise alarmed them,
and they fled in terror to the bush. The inter-
preter was sent on shore in the canoe. He found
the town deserted, and experienced great diffi-
culty in persuading the natives to quit their re-
treats.

On the morning of the 11th, the King of Fun-

" KING OF THE WRENS." 437

dab's daughter came on board. Sbe was accom-
panied by a daughter of the King of Addacoo-
dab. The former is a most interesting-looking
girl, with a very intelligent and expressive coun-
tenance. Her eyelids were covered with an-
timony ; sbe wore coral studs in her ears, and
was ornamented with Agary beads. Both the
ladies reside at a village a little distance off.

A great deal of rice is grown on each bank of
the river.

At 6. 30 A. M. on the following morning, I
went ashore, taking with me my fowling-piece.
I saw a great many monkeys of a greyish colour,
but they were too wild to allow me to approach
them within gun-shot. I shot a small but very
beautiful bird ; its feathers were brown and
white, with silvery tips, brown iris, red beak,
and four feathers in its tail eleven inches long.
Mr. Lander styled it the " king of the wrens."
We were in a fine plantation of Indian and
Dower* corn, and saw in the distance a vast
number of Guinea fowl.

At 12. 35, got under weigh. Course, east-
south-east ; soundings, from two to six fathoms.

* Dower, small red corn, so called by the natives, is the
sorghum dora of Parsoon.

438 THE BAY OF ISLANDS.

The tract of land lying on the right side of the
river is called the Domah country. At 3 p. m.
we passed an island about three miles in length.
At 4 p. M. passed two islands lying to the right,
bearing south-west. Just before reaching the
point of the first, we saw two very large alliga-
tors, and from this circumstance we named it
Alligator Island : to a recess formed by the point
of the smaller island we attached the name of
the Bay of Islands. At 5. 40 p.m. came to an
anchor in a part of the river which was not more
than three hundred yards in width. For the two
last hours we had been running between two low
islands, having by mistake left the main branch
of the river. In some places the width is only
sixty yards, and the Tchadda there bore a greater
resemblance to a creek than to a river.

The prospect around was now extremely wild
and dreary, although the country had been im-
proving. No canoes or natives were visible, and
the only living creatures we saw were a few birds
and some baboons. The latter chattered, grin-
ned, and leaped from bough to bough in evident
terror and surprise. A suspicion that we should
be very much troubled with mosquitoes rendered
the thoughts of a night's rest in this place any-

WARLIKE APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. 439

thing but agreeable. We afterwards passed two
small towns, but none of the natives were visible,
though at night I could hear the sound of voices
on the shore. Mr. Lander was very unwell dur-
ing the last few days, and this evening I applied
a blister to the lower part of the abdomen.

At 11 A. M. on the 13th of August, we got
under weigh. A great deal of rain fell during
the night, and the morning was dull and gloomy.
Soundings, two fathoms. Mr. Lander found
himself somewhat easier. When the Kroomen
returned from cutting wood. Grey, their leader,
informed us, that in attempting to go ashore at
a small town a little below, the natives appeared
on the banks, armed with bows and arrows, and
resolutely opposed their landing. Accordingly
they crossed the river, and landed on the oppo-
site side ; but, had our men been armed with
guns, a trial of strength would, no doubt, have
taken place, and the result might have been un-
favourable to our proceedings.

We were informed that the King of the Bassa
country had despatched a messenger to pay his
respects to the white men ; but the poor fellow,
from some cause or other, dared not venture on
board. He had been abreast the vessel several

440 SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS.

times, but always dropped astern after looking
earnestly at her ; and he finally departed, afraid
to execute his orders. When he returned to his
monarch, it is probable he gave some strange
account of the white men and their vessel. We
passed several palm-trees, and at 6 p. m. came to
an anchor.

The river to-day has gradually widened as we
have proceeded. At 4 o'clock we again entered
the main branch ; a circumstance which gave us
no small satisfaction. All around us continued
to wear a dismal and gloomy appearance. Since
yesterday we had only had a glimpse of one
small canoe. Our provisions had now failed,
and we possessed neither rice, yams, nor plan-
tains ; neither was there a prospect of any town
from whence we might obtain a supply. We
had passed some palm-trees, and had seen an
immense number of alligators swimming round
us in every direction, one of which followed the
vessel a considerable distance. The river has
taken an ample sweep to the southward. In the
afternoon we observed smoke rising from a spot
situated a small distance from the banks, which
gave us hopes that the next day we should be

ALARM OF TWO CHIEFS. 441

able to replenish our exhausted stores : but the
thinness of the population, and the barren face
of the country, led us to the conclusion, that the
river is considered either unhealthy, or that little
traffic goes forward here ; otherwise we should
have met with some natives, and seen more
towns and villages. Mr. Lander found himself
better.

On the next morning, the Kroomen went on
shore to cut wood ; but the natives again opposed
their landing, and they were obliged to cross to
the opposite bank for that purpose. The inter-
preter was also despatched on shore to procure
a supply of provisions. On his return, he stated
that we were contiguous to two towns, Dagboh
and Obohbe, but at neither of them could he
procure any provisions or information. He like-
wise informed us that the chief had fled on the
first approach of the vessel. The chief of the
smaller town was afraid to venture on board
himself, but sent his daughter, a girl of ten or
eleven years of age. She was entirely destitute
of clothing, and wore nothing but a few strings
of beads fastened round her loins. A small pre-
sent was given to her, with which she returned

442 MESSENGER TO THE KING OF DOMAH.

on shore well pleased. The natives kept a fire
burning all night, which we concluded they meant
for their safety.

By information recently collected from the
natives of Obohbe, it appears that we are two
days' journey by land from Domah, behind the
hills on the right bank, which is said to abound
in ivory. The population of Domah is reported
to be large, and the people industrious. We
heard that the Sheik of Bornou had been at war
with the King of Domah two or three months
ago, and still possesses a hostile feeling towards
him. It was thought that this would be a favour-
able opportunity for establishing a traffic, if the
natives could be induced to bring down their
ivory ; and it was therefore arranged, that a mes-
senger should be despatched to the King of Do-
mah, to bring back with him three horses, should
circumstances prove favourable, and to induce
the natives to open a traffic for what ivory they
were possessed of. Jowdie was accordingly des-
patched with this commission, and was expected
to return in eight days.

Our anchorage was by no means a desirable
one, the ground being low and swampy. To the
north-east were hills about two hundred feet

VISIT OBOHBE. 443

high. We were still destitute of yams, rice, &c.
and with the view of seeing the village, in the
afternoon Mr. Allen, Mr. Dean, and myself went
ashore. A footpath from the water-side led us
towrads the village of Obohbe.

On our way we saw a number of girls occu-
pied in grinding Dower corn, — or rather bruising
it to a powder between two stones, or slabs of
dried clay. The natives appeared very shy of
us, and evinced great timidity. We proceeded
a short distance along the pathway leading to
Domah, but quickly returned and followed that
leading to the town of Dagboh. To one whom
we met I presented my hand, but he shrunk from
it with horror.

On entering the town, I was much surprised
to find it of considerable size. The huts were
constructed of mud, in the shape of a cone, and,
instead of people, they appeared to be well
stocked with sheep, goats, and abundance of
poultry ; indeed these were the only occupants,
for the inhabitants, men, women and children,
had all fled in dismay at our approach. We only
saw two of the natives in the town, and these
were armed with bows, arrows, and knives, and
wore the skins of the deer and monkey tied

444 RETURN OF THE MESSENGER.

around their loins like an apron. The natives
whom we first met beckoned us to return, which
we chose rather to comply with than to alarm
them further by proceeding.

A great quantity of ochrus was growing around
the town, but no rice was to be had here. The
hills before mentioned are principally composed
of ironstone, great quantities of which were lying
in the foot paths. The natives generally are
well armed with bows, arrows, and spears : the
latter weapon is about seven feet long, and
barbed at the end. They appeared to be the
most savage, barbarous, and uncivilised people
we had yet met with. — The evening, as we re-
turned on board, was showery.

The following morning was also showery.
There being as yet no sign of provisions, I volun-
teered to go ashore, with cowries, to endeavour
to purchase some, accompanied by Mina, one of
the Kroomen. As soon as I landed, to my infi-
nite surprise, I beheld Jowdie, who by this time
was supposed to be at Domah. He stated that
he had proceeded some distance on his journey,
when he was met by some Bornou soldiers, who
opposed his progress, and, threatening to cut his
head off if he proceeded, insisted on his return.

MISTAKEN FOR FELATAHS. 445

This was extremely mortifying. We were one
hundred and four miles from the Niger, destitute
of provisions, and with but little prospect of obtain-
ing a supply, as the natives refused to furnish
us with any. When we entered the towns, they
deserted them, and retreated to the fields or
mountains. Under these circumstances, there
being no prospect of establishing a traffic, Mr.
Lander deemed it advisable to return, much to
my great disappointment, as I was in hopes of
reaching Beeshle and Jaccoba, places of great
trade, eight or ten days' journey up the river,
abounding in salt called trona (a subcarbonate
of soda).

We learnt that the fugitive chief of Dagboh had
five elephants' teeth in his possession ; but, not-
withstanding our protestations of friendship, we
could not induce him to trade with us. They
imagined we were Felatahs, and consequently ob-
jects of suspicion and terror, as that people had
carried on their predatory excursions up the
Tchadda, and in their progress had set fire to se-
veral towns. We had now nothing on board but
Dower corn, and having ground it as fine as pos-
sible, we had it made into bread, which, though
somewhat coarse, was extremely sweet and pala-

446 VISIT DAGBOH.

table. At a small neighbouring village we could
procure nothing but one fowl and some small
yams, which cost us two hundred cowries each.

After taking shelter in a chief's house from a
heavy shower of rain coming on, I went forward
to Dagboh, taking with me my servant Lilly,
Al Harr, and Mina. At the entrance of the town
we found two natives on guard, one stationed
on each side of the foot-path. On the left of it,
they had placed a piece of iron about four feet
long, to which was suspended four cowries, and
some blue and white rags, as a fetish, to prevent
my ingress. I advanced towards the men, who
appeared by their manners to be surprised that
the fetish did not prevent my advancing. They
maintained their stations until I was within
about a yard of them, when the one who stood
by the fetish, casting a stern look at me, turned
round, walked away, and was shortly after-
wards followed by the other. I accosted them
in Houssa, but they took no notice of what I
said. Although the town contains more than two
hundred dwellings, these were the only natives
I could see. Abundance of goats, sheep, and
fowls everywhere met my eye, and I could not

INTERVIEW WITH SEVEN NATIVES. 447

but think it hard that we were to starve in the
midst of plenty. After offering a reasonable
price, we almost thought ourselves justified to
take that by force which we could not procure
by entreaties.

As we proceeded through the town, we could dis-
cern a straggling native here and there peeping
at us ; but on our advancing near them, they re-
treated to their yards and houses. The sun being
very powerful, I went into the palaver-house, whi-
ther in a few minutes seven of the natives followed
me, armed with spears, knives, bows and arrows.
I was seated cross-legged, very composedly, when
they entered ; and after looking at me for a short
time, they went away, and their place was sup-
plied by others. Mina spoke to them, but they
either could not or would not understand him.
They put their hands in their ears, and by signs
intimated their ignorance of what he was saying.
After sitting a short time, one of the same men,
acquiring an intuitive knowledge of the language,
found that he could speak Houssa. We inti-
mated our wishes to trade for ivory, and pur-
chase provisions ; and to make them more clear-
ly understand us, we produced our cowries :

448 LAKE OF TCHAD.

but all was quite inffectual. I repeatedly in-
quired for the king {sidikeen), but could obtain
no answer.

We then left them, and returned to the village
of Obohbe during a heavy shower of rain, where
I found the natives in considerable alarm, in con-
sequence of a dispute raised by the chief, be-
cause they had supplied us with a few eggs,
and had held communication with us contrary to
his direct prohibition ; the Chief or King of Dag-
boh having threatened to give him magJiony
(poison) if he held any intercourse with us. The
malca, or fourteen days' rain, had not yet set in ;
but in the evening we had two tornadoes blow-
ing from the south-east, which was rather unu-
sual : they were accompanied with heavy rain.
Steam was ordered to be got up by six in the
morning, and the vessel's course to be directed
for the Niger and Rabba, having accomplished
a voyage of one hundred and four miles up a
river hitherto totally unknown except at its con-
fluence.

It still remains to be determined whether or
not the lake of Tchad empties itself into the
Tchadda or Shary. If we are to believe the
accounts of the natives, it does so ; but it may be

ALBURKAH AGROUND. 449

that the Tchadda is formed by the rains from
the surrounding mountains. We could obtain
no information whatever which enabled us to
come to a just conclusion respecting it. When
full, the Tchadda must be a very fine and noble
river ; but there are a number of islands, which,
with its shallow channels, here and there impede
its navigation.

On the morning of the 16th, at 5. 45, got
under weigh, and I was not sorry at the idea of
quitting this inhospitable country. Our fuel be-
ing green, it was some time before the steam was
up, which delayed us a little. We chose a reach
leading to the northward, and passed two towns,
but only saw one native : the poor creatures,
being terrified at our approach, generally con-
cealed themselves.

About 8 A. M. we unfortunately got into shoal
water, with only one fathom round us, while we
were drawing five feet and a quarter. The wea-
ther showery and hazy. Mr. Lander, though still
indisposed, was better. We passed a tree the
blossoms of which resembled a honeysuckle ;
another bore a flower of the finest purple. On
the south-west side, the banks were clothed with
grass, about six or seven feet high. At noon we

VOL. I. 2 G

450 -TOWN OF COIIRACU.

were still aground, our efforts to get off the
shoal being entirely unavailing.

At 3|- p. M. fortunately got clear of the shoal,
^nd ran to the opposite shore, where we had
deep water. At 3^ p. m« we anchored near a
small town named Oruka, below which was a
larger one called Corracu, situated on the north
side of the river, both of which we had missed
on our way up, in consequence of going up the
other reach. Abreast of us, on the south side,
were some palm-trees. The river at this part is
about one thousand yards in breadth. A small
island lay immediately above us. We observed
several natives in the fields, two of whom after-
wards came a few yards from the shore in a
canoe, but almost immediately retreated. We
desired the interpreter to invite them on board,
but they proceeded to the island above us. Mina
was sent ashore with a present to the king and
chiefs, and on his return brought some yams and
a goat, together with an invitation to visit the
King of Corracu the following morning, when
horses would be provided for our journey. This
town Was likely to afford us a supply of provi-
sions, and relieved us from our anxieties on this
score*

THE FELATAHS. 451

Within the hist four months the Felatahs
had plundered Corracu, carrying off goats, fowls,
&c. together with a great number of the inhabit-
ants, whom they take away with them as slaves.
Hearing everywhere such accounts of the Fela-
tahs, I had a great desire to see some of them.
They are reported to be brave and warlike, and
much superior to the generality of the natives ;
but their character is sullied by their cruelties-,
and by their neglect of their sick and wounded,
who are unable to keep up with them on their
journeys, and whom they leave to the mercy of
their enemies, these never failing on their part to
put them to a most cruel death.

Thermometer, 85°.

END OP THE FIRST VOLUME,

LONDON:
PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,

Dorset Street, Fleet Street,

51

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